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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Mission Furniture
+       How to Make It, Part 3
+
+Author: H. H. Windsor
+
+Release Date: November 30, 2007 [EBook #23666]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by K Nordquist, Ross Wilburn and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MISSION FURNITURE
+HOW TO MAKE IT
+
+PART THREE
+
+
+
+
+POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS
+
+
+
+CHICAGO
+POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY
+
+Copyrighted, 1912
+
+BY H. H. WINDSOR
+
+This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being
+published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books
+are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish
+information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all.
+
+The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this
+Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by
+the editor of Popular Mechanics.
+
+The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of
+each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material
+mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a
+complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for
+planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for
+surface four sides and surface two sides.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+Piano Bench, 5
+Library Table, 7
+Princess Dresser, 10
+Sewing Box, 14
+Fern Stand, 17
+Wardrobe, 20
+Finish, 24
+Oak Table, 25
+Book Trough, 28
+Oak Serving Table, 30
+Umbrella Stand, 33
+Chafing-Dish Buffet, 35
+Writing Desk, 38
+Music Rack and Bookstand, 41
+Dictionary and Magazine Stand, 43
+Leather-Back Armchair, 47
+Wall Shelf, 50
+Pedestal, 53
+Magazine Rack, 55
+Hall Tree, 58
+Table for the Den, 60
+Table, Sewing, 64
+Burlap-Covered Window Seat, 65
+Quarter-Sawed Oak Settee, 67
+Screen, 71, 94
+Mission Bookrack, 74
+Round Extension Dining Table, 75
+Arm Dining Chair, 79
+Hall Bench, 82
+Sewing Table, 84
+Side Chair, 88
+Another Piano Bench, 91
+Another Screen, 95
+Folding Card Table, 97
+Magazine Stand, 102
+Tabouret, 105
+Porch Swing, 109
+Foot Warmer, 111
+Plate Rack for Dining Room, 113
+Mission Sideboard, 116
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+Piano Bench
+Detail of the Piano Bench
+Detail of the Library Table
+The Finished Library Table
+Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
+Detail of the Princess Dresser
+Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash
+Detail of the Sewing Box
+Detail of the Fern Stand
+Finished Stand in Quartered Oak
+The Wardrobe Complete
+Detail of Wardrobe
+Detail of Construction
+Finished Table
+Detail of Book Trough
+Book Trough Complete
+Serving Table Complete
+Detail of Serving Table
+Umbrella Stand
+Detail of Umbrella Stand
+Buffet in Quartered Oak
+Method of Fastening with Screws
+Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet
+Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak
+Detail of the Writing Desk
+Complete Stand
+Detail of the Stand
+Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand
+Stand Made in Oak
+Arm Chair Complete
+Detail of the Arm Chair
+Complete Wall Shelf
+Wall Shelf Detail
+Completed Pedestal
+Detail of the Pedestal
+Detail of the Magazine Rack
+Magazine Rack Complete
+Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree
+Table Completed
+Detail of a Den Table
+Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering
+Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap
+Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
+Detail of the Oak Settee
+Detail of One Section
+Screen of Three Sections
+Detail of the Bookrack
+The Complete Bookrack
+Detail of the Table
+Table for the Dining-Room Set
+Armchair of the Dining-Room Set
+Detail of the Armchair
+Detail of the Hall Bench
+Bench Made of Plain Oak
+Sewing Table in Plain Oak
+Detail of the Sewing Table
+Construction of the Drawer
+Side Chair of Dining-Room Set
+Detail of the Side Chair
+Detail of the Piano Bench
+Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak
+Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels
+Detail of the Frame
+Detail of the Card Table
+Card Table Ready for Use
+The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top
+Stand Complete
+Detail of Stand
+Detail of Tabouret
+Finished Tabouret
+Complete Porch Swing
+Detail of the Porch Swing
+Detail of the Foot Warmer
+Oak Stool with Brass Cover
+Detail of Plate Rack
+Dining-Room Plate Rack
+Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set
+Detail of the Sideboard
+
+
+
+
+A PIANO BENCH
+
+
+[Illustration: Piano Bench in Black Walnut]
+
+The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture was made of black
+walnut and was finished natural. The finish was applied in the following
+manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and sandpapered, then the
+surface was covered with a coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had
+stood several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate the wood, the
+surplus liquid was wiped off with a flannel cloth. After the oil had
+stood for 48 hours, a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to
+harden overnight. The next morning this shellac was sandpapered lightly
+with No. 00 paper and a coat of floor wax was applied according to the
+directions which are found upon every can. Two more coats of wax were
+applied after intervals of half an hour and the finish was completed.
+The effect is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich color of the
+wood and the shellac and wax serve to preserve the color. The following
+stock is needed:
+
+  1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.
+
+With the exception of the legs all the stock is specified mill-planed to
+thickness upon two surfaces. The legs are specified planed on four
+sides. Square the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc.,
+to width and length.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Piano Bench]
+
+Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are
+best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into
+the rails. The reason for this is obvious--it is a difficult matter to
+fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are tenoned.
+When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths adjusts
+itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the mortises
+carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting the
+shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike.
+
+Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench
+together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher
+and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either
+by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons.
+
+
+
+
+A LIBRARY TABLE
+
+
+A library table of neat appearance and correct proportions is shown in
+the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. This table looks best when
+finished in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the other furniture woods
+can be used if desired. If the material is ordered from the mill cut to
+length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can be avoided. Order
+the following pieces:
+
+  4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S.
+  2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S.
+  2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+  4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S.
+  8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
+  4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.
+
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Library Table]
+
+Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and
+laying out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section BB. Care
+should be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same
+height. This is best done by placing the four legs side by side with the
+ends square, and then laying out the mortises across all four at once
+with a try-square.
+
+[Illustration: The Finished Library Table]
+
+The table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued
+together. Be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the
+joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out for the posts as
+shown. The posts are to be fastened to the board by means of screws. The
+holes can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged. The top rails
+are also fastened to the top board by means of screws.
+
+The end pieces can now be made. Two or more boards will have to be
+glued together for these. The top corners will have to be cut to fit
+about the top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to the top
+board. The shelves also have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in
+the posts. They are held to the end boards by means of screws.
+
+If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, they can be glued and
+screwed together, which will complete the table except for the slats and
+drawers. The slats can be fastened on with nails, then the heads covered
+with fancy nails which can be secured for this purpose. The drawer
+supports can now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards as shown.
+A bottom brace should be fastened under the lower shelves to help steady
+the table. The two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch. No
+handles are needed as the lower edge of the front board can be used for
+pulling them out.
+
+When the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine
+sandpaper and all rough spots removed. Scrape the glue from about the
+joints as finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply the stain
+preferred or the one that matches the other furniture. This can be any
+of the many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
+
+
+
+
+A PRINCESS DRESSER
+
+
+A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing
+appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The
+cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, a great amount
+of labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length,
+squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material
+needed will be as follows:
+
+[Illustration: Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak]
+
+  4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.
+  5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.
+  1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
+  2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.
+  2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+  1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.
+
+The following pieces may be of any soft wood:
+
+  5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.
+  6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.
+  1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.
+  4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.
+
+First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either
+chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid
+out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and
+then marked and cut directly from each tenon. The posts as well as the
+end rails should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. end
+panels.
+
+The top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts. The
+corners of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing.
+
+The end sections of the dresser can be glued together first, care being
+taken to get the joints square and tight. When these are dry the side
+rails and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. The top board
+is held in position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened
+to the inner sides of the rails.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Princess Dresser]
+
+The mirror frame is made by mortising the end pieces with the side
+pieces as shown. It is rabbeted on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in.
+mirror. After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame a thin wood
+covering should be tacked on the back to protect the glass. The frame
+swings between two upright posts which are securely fastened to the
+body of the dresser as shown.
+
+The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner. The drawing shows
+two drawers in the top compartment, but one exactly like the lower can
+be made and used instead by simply leaving out the 1 in. partition.
+Suitable handles for the drawers can be purchased at any hardware store.
+
+The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape
+all surplus glue from about the joints as the stain will not take where
+there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper and apply the stain
+desired, which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the
+trade for this purpose.
+
+
+
+
+A SEWING BOX
+
+
+A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite as convenient as
+unique, is shown in the illustration. The material is walnut and ash.
+The posts are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are finished
+in their natural colors. The following is the stock bill:
+
+   4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut.
+   1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut.
+   4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash.
+   4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut.
+  72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.
+
+In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine the lengths of pieces
+having like widths and thicknesses.
+
+If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter indicated for the
+verticals, it is an easy matter to take a square piece of stock, lay it
+off and work it into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises may
+again be planed until it has 16 and then 32 sides. The rest may be
+removed with sandpaper. Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will
+be available. Saw these posts to length and leave the ends square.
+
+[Illustration: Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash]
+
+Square up the stock for the other parts. Work the bottom piece to a
+16-in. square. The rails are not to be squared on the ends but are to be
+mitered each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts by metal
+brackets.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Sewing Box]
+
+Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom may be inserted.
+Insert the corners and use glue and nails to hold them in place. Place
+the lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts as is necessary
+to bring the inner edge of these rails in position. Fasten to the posts.
+Miter and place the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened
+to the bottom from the outer side and to the lower of the two top rails
+from the inner side. Brass-headed tacks such as upholsterers use are
+required.
+
+In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a coat of boiled
+linseed oil. Allow this to stand a half hour or so and then wipe the
+surface clean. After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating of
+shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac when hard with No. 00
+sandpaper and then apply several coats of wax, polishing in the usual
+manner.
+
+Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with which the box may be
+moved about.
+
+
+
+
+A FERN STAND
+
+
+When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying sketch use
+quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for
+finishing in the different mission stains. Considerable labor can be
+saved in its construction by ordering the stock from the mill ready cut
+to length, squared and sanded. Order the following pieces:
+
+   4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
+   8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S.
+   1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S.
+  16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.
+
+The legs are made first. Be sure they are square and of equal length.
+The mortises can be laid out and cut or they can be left until the
+tenons on the side rails are all made, then marked and cut from each
+tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly alike for the four sides,
+as the table is square. In addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves
+should be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into as shown in
+the cross section in the detail drawing. Holes should be cut in the
+slats as shown.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Fern Stand]
+
+The top board should have the corners cut out to fit around the posts.
+It is held in place by means of screws through cleats which are fastened
+to the inner sides of the top rails.
+
+The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails that are mortised into
+the posts as shown. The top and bottom boards should be of one piece if
+possible, otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together.
+
+Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces fit together square
+and tight. The posts and rails should be glued and assembled, then the
+top and bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the
+clamps are put on.
+
+[Illustration: Finished Stand in Quartered Oak]
+
+Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing the clamps. Fasten the
+top and bottom boards in place and then go over the stand with fine
+sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.
+
+
+
+
+A WARDROBE
+
+
+The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying sketch and
+detail drawing will be found a great convenience in a bedroom where
+closet space is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides
+ample room for hanging suits, dresses and other wearing apparel, as well
+as space for boots and shoes. It can be made of any of the several
+furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to
+give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill
+ready cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way much labor will be
+saved. The following pieces will be needed:
+
+  4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S.
+  4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.
+  2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S.
+  8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood.
+  4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
+  1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.
+
+[Illustration: The Wardrobe Complete]
+
+First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. The
+upper ends can be chamfered or rounded if desired. The two front posts
+are alike, as are the back ones. The mortises should be laid out in each
+pair of posts and then cut with a sharp chisel, or they can be left
+until the tenons are all made, and then marked and cut from each tenon.
+Grooves should be cut on one side of all the posts to take the end
+panels.
+
+The front and lower back rails are plain except for the tenons at each
+end, but the end rails and the center uprights should have grooves cut
+for the panels the same as the posts. The top back rail serves as a top
+back board and should have the corners rounded as shown in the detail
+drawing.
+
+The frame can now be assembled. Glue should be used on all the joints as
+it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together
+perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the shelves.
+
+The top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the
+posts. The closet is divided into two compartments by a partition. This
+can be made of plain boards or panels similar to those in the ends, as
+desired. Place the shelves in position as shown. They are held in place
+by means of cleats and screws. The one shelf has a partition in its
+center with a door on one side and two small drawers on the other.
+Drawers should be fitted to three of the other compartments. They are
+made in the usual manner except that the front boards should be cut out
+at the top for a handhold as shown.
+
+The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends. They
+have a centerpiece and panels to match the ends of the closet. Suitable
+hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased at any
+hardware store.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Wardrobe]
+
+The backing is put on in the usual manner. It should be finished on the
+front side.
+
+When complete, the closet should be carefully gone over with fine
+sandpaper and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the
+desired color. This may be any of the many mission stains supplied by
+the trade for this purpose.
+
+
+
+
+A FINISH
+
+
+An appropriate finish is obtained as follows: First thoroughly scrape
+and sandpaper the various parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish
+water stain. Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly with No. 00
+sandpaper to lay the grain. Again apply the Flemish stain, but this time
+have it weakened by the addition of an equal amount of water. When dry,
+sand again as on the first coat. Upon the second coat of stain apply a
+thin coat of shellac. This is to protect the high lights from the stain
+in the filler which is to follow. Sand lightly, then apply a paste
+filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make a dark field for the brown
+Flemish. Clean off the surplus and polish in the usual manner.
+
+Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight, apply a coat of orange
+shellac. Successively apply several coats of some good rubbing varnish.
+Polish the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with
+pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw linseed or crude oil.
+
+
+
+
+AN OAK TABLE
+
+
+The accompanying illustration shows another style of a mission table.
+The stock for this table if ordered as follows and sanded will require
+only the work of making the joints and putting them together:
+
+  4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S.
+  4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+This table may be made with mortise and tenon joints or with dowels as
+desired. If dowels are used, the upper and lower rails should be made 2
+in. shorter than shown in the drawing.
+
+Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their surfaces square to
+each other and their ends sawed square off. This will simplify the
+assembling a great deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2
+in., and chamfer a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops.
+
+Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking the working face
+and edge to work from when laying out the tenons later. Square up the
+two lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the same length
+as the upper rails. The two ends of the table having the slats should be
+glued up first. Lay out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for
+these two ends and be sure to work from the marked face and edges, using
+a knife line. Cut the tenons, and, by placing them against the posts in
+the exact position they are to occupy, mark the places for the mortises.
+These joints should be numbered so that each mortise may be cut to fit
+its own tenon.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Construction Finished Table]
+
+Square up the slats, 3 by 15-1/8 in., and cut mortises in the upper and
+lower rails 1/4 in. deep to let them in. The number of these slats,
+their size and spacing may be arranged to suit one's own idea. Put the
+posts, upper and lower rails, and slats together without glue first to
+determine if the parts fit properly, and then glue and clamp them
+together. Hot glue will hold best, if the room and lumber are warm; if
+not, it is best to use ordinary liquid glue. While the glue on these two
+ends of the table is setting, the other upper rails, top, and stretcher
+may be finished.
+
+The top will have to be made of two or three pieces joined together with
+dowels and glue. If possible, use only two boards and be sure the grain
+in both pieces runs the same way when they are put together.
+
+After the ends which were glued have set at least 24 hours, the clamps
+may be taken off and the other two upper rails tenoned and mortised in
+place. The stretcher may be held with two 3/8-in. dowels in each end, or
+with two round-head screws put through the lower rails. When gluing up
+the whole table, be sure the sides are square to each other. The top may
+now be squared up 24 by 24 in. and the corners cut out for the top of
+the posts. The top may be fastened as shown at A and B in the drawing,
+or by cleats screwed to the inside of the upper rails and top.
+
+Before staining, be sure that all surplus glue is scraped off and the
+surfaces sanded clean. A weathered or fumed oak stain is suitable for
+this table. A good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a little
+drop black ground in oil with turpentine and a little linseed oil. Put
+this stain on with a brush and allow to stand until it begins to
+flatten or dull, then rub off across the grain with a rag or piece of
+cotton waste. When thoroughly dry, apply one coat of very thin shellac.
+After this has dried, finish with two coats of wax. The shellac prevents
+the turpentine in the wax from rubbing out the stain. To get a good wax
+finish the work should dry until it will not show finger marks, before
+rubbing.
+
+
+
+
+BOOK TROUGH
+
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Book Trough]
+
+A very cheap but attractive book trough is shown in the accompanying
+photograph. This piece of mission furniture will be found useful in the
+home or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight knowledge of
+tools. The material should be either oak or chestnut, which can be
+secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the
+tenons and mortises. The stock needed will be as follows:
+
+  2 ends, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 31 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 35 in., S-1-S.
+  2 trough pieces, 7/8 in. by 4 in. by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  8 keys, 5/8 in. by 5/8 in. by 3 in.
+
+[Illustration: Book Trough Complete]
+
+The two end pieces should be made first with the top corners rounded off
+and the lower end, which is of simple design, can be cut out with a
+bracket saw and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises should then be
+laid out according to the sketch and cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes
+and finishing with a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and
+free from slivers.
+
+The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key tenon at each end to
+fit the end pieces. The space between the two tenons at each end can be
+cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp. The key holes
+should be mortised as shown in the sketch. The trough pieces are made in
+a similar manner, care being taken to have all tenons and mortises
+perfectly square and a good fit, so the trough when assembled will have
+a neat and workmanlike appearance. The trough can be finished in any one
+of the many mission finishes which are supplied by the trade for this
+purpose.
+
+
+
+
+AN OAK SERVING TABLE
+
+
+The serving table is another useful piece of furniture that can be made
+in mission style. This table should be made in quarter-sawed oak and
+stained very light. The stock order is as follows:
+
+  2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S.
+  2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+
+[Illustration: Serving Table Complete]
+
+The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary for squaring to
+length and the two back posts should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as
+they are the longest and project above the back panel. All of the posts
+are cut tapering for a space of 4 in. from the bottom ends. Mortises in
+the posts and tenons on the rails are laid out and cut as shown by the
+dimensions in the drawing. These parts are then well glued and put
+together. The top, which should be of well seasoned wood, is cut to fit
+around the back posts so the back edge and the back side of the posts
+are flush. The back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners of
+the back posts. This is done so the back surface of the panel will be
+flush the same as the edge of the top. The slat is fastened with
+round-headed brass screws on the front of the two back posts about half
+way between the top and the ends of the posts.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Serving Table]
+
+The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two methods. One way is
+to use a small button made of wood and so mortised as to set in the
+rails and then fastened to the top with screws. About six of these
+buttons will be sufficient to hold the top in place. The other method is
+to bore a hole slanting on the inside of the rails, directing the bit
+toward the top, which will make a seat--if not cut too deep--for a screw
+that can be turned direct into the top.
+
+The glue must be removed from about the joints and the surfaces smoothed
+over with fine sandpaper before applying the stain. The directions for
+staining will be found on the can in which it is sold. The grain of the
+wood will show up well if the surface is given a dull waxed finish after
+staining.
+
+
+
+
+AN UMBRELLA STAND
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The umbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration will be found
+quite appropriate for the hall or reception room that is furnished in
+mission style. It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but
+quarter-sawed oak gives the best results. The stock necessary to make
+this stand can be secured from the mill ready cut to length, squared and
+sanded, and is given in the following list:
+
+  4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
+  4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+  4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+  4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S.
+  1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in.
+
+First square up the posts and bevel the tops as shown in the detail
+sketch. Place them side by side, on a flat surface with the ends square
+and lay out the mortises with a try-square on all four pieces at the
+same time. This will insure your getting them all straight and of the
+same height. Now lay out the tenons on the rails in the same manner and
+cut them to fit the mortises in the posts. Mortises should also be cut
+in the rails for the ends of the side slats as shown. Try all the joints
+and see that they fit tight and square. Glue two sides of the stand
+together and let them dry for at least 24 hours, then glue the remaining
+parts, being careful to get everything together perfectly square.
+
+The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It should have a hole cut
+in it for the drip pan. The pan should be about 6 or 7 in. in diameter.
+One suitable for the purpose can be purchased in any hardware store. The
+bottom board can be fastened to the rails with nails driven from the
+under side, or cleats can be nailed to the rails for it to rest upon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the stand is complete, scrape all glue from about the joints and go
+over the whole with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the
+finish you like best, or the one that will match your other furniture.
+
+Should the builder want an entire hand-made stand, the drip pan may be
+beaten into shape from sheet brass or copper. This kind of work is known
+as repoussé. After beating the pan into shape, it can be finished in
+antique, old copper or given a polished surface, as desired.
+
+
+
+
+A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET
+
+
+The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient and attractive for
+the dining room. For the best effect it should be made of quartered oak,
+stained brown or weathered and trimmed with brass hardware.
+
+[Illustration: Buffet in Quartered Oak]
+
+To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure the following pieces
+of stock, surfaced on four sides and cut to length:
+
+  4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+  4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S.
+  2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S.
+  8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S.
+
+Begin the work on the rails for the sides of the stand. Have them all
+squared up to exactly the same length and to the correct width and
+thickness. Mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them with a saw
+and chisel.
+
+When this is finished, try the legs to see that they are all the same
+length and that their surfaces are square with each other. Next mark the
+mortises in the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the mortises,
+first bore to depth with a bit 1/8 in, smaller than the width of the
+mortise and cut to the line with a chisel.
+
+[Illustration: Method of Fastening with Screws]
+
+Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in two lower rails for the
+tenons on the ends of the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller
+mortises in them for the keys, should be cut first. Square up the two
+side panels and cut grooves 3/8 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in
+the rails and part of the legs.
+
+Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, and cut
+mortises for them in the two upper rails.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet]
+
+The two sides of the buffet are now ready to be glued up and clamped.
+While the glue on these is setting, make the door. The rails are
+mortised into the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive the
+panel. It is best to get the stock a little full for the door so that it
+may be made up a little larger than necessary and planed down to fit.
+
+There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten the top and back.
+The top and back are held with screws as shown in sketch.
+
+Taper the keys only slightly, otherwise they will keep working loose.
+
+Stain with two coats of weathered oak, give one coat of thin shellac to
+fix the stain and two coats of wax for a soft-gloss finish.
+
+
+
+
+A WRITING DESK
+
+
+The desk shown in the illustration was made of plain-sawed white oak.
+The copper lighting fixtures were made by the amateur as were the hinges
+and the drawer pulls. The doors are fitted with art-glass panels. The
+following stock list is needed:
+
+  1 top, 3/4 by 22-1/2 by 41 in., S-2-S.
+  4 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  2 rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  4 drawer sides, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 19 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  4 slides, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  8 guides, 3/4 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+  2 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 16 in., S-4-S.
+  4 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 11 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back, 3/4 by 16 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 8 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  2 shelves, 3/4 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  4 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  8 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 4 in., S-2-S.
+
+Square the legs to length and lay out and cut the mortises thereon. Lay
+off the tenons on the rails, after having squared the rails to length
+and width, and cut them.
+
+Work up the top of the table and then the drawer stock and cabinet.
+Assemble the ends of the frame first, using good hot glue and enough
+clamps to hold the parts together properly. After the glue has hardened
+on these, the clamps may be removed and the front, back rails and the
+stretcher assembled.
+
+[Illustration: Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak]
+
+While the glue is hardening on the main frame the top cabinet may be
+built and assembled. This cabinet is detachable from the table proper
+and is to be held in place by means of cleats upon the back. These
+cleats are not specified in the bill; they may be obtained from scrap
+stock.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Writing Desk]
+
+For a piece of woodwork of this style some of the softer browns of the
+mission stains will be most appropriate. After all parts have been
+thoroughly cleaned by scraping and sandpapering, a stain may be applied.
+Allow this to dry, then sand it lightly and apply a thin coat of
+shellac. Sand the shellac lightly and apply a filler of a color to match
+the stain, but darker in tone, of course. Clean off the surplus in the
+usual manner and then apply a coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and
+apply several coats of some good polishing wax.
+
+
+
+
+MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND
+
+
+The illustration shows a very handy music and bookstand, which also can
+be used at the bedside as a reading stand. The following list of
+material will be required for construction:
+
+  1 standard, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  1 horizontal, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.
+  1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
+  1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 12 in., S-4-S.
+  2 braces, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 9 in., S-4-S.
+  1 board, 1/2 by 8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  4 blocks, 1-1/8 in. square.
+  2 gauge clamps.
+  1 strip, 1/2 by 1 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  8 round-head brass screws.
+  1 brass rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 12 in, long.
+  1 brass piece, 1/4 by 3/4 by 10 in.
+
+[Illustration: Complete Stand]
+
+Cut a tenon on the lower end of the upright and make a mortise in the
+center of the long crosspiece to receive the tenon. The horizontal has
+tenons cut on both ends which fit into mortises cut in the sides of both
+crosspieces. The upper corners on the ends of both crosspieces are cut
+sloping on a 45-deg. angle. The blocks for the feet are attached to the
+under side and at the end on each crosspiece with screws and hot glue,
+the screw heads being sunk so that they will not catch on carpets or mar
+the floor. The braces are attached with round-head screws after they
+are cut on each end to fit the standard and crosspiece.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Stand]
+
+The book rest is cut from the board. The openings are made by sawing the
+pieces out with a coping saw, and the edges are dressed up with a sharp
+chisel. The lip strip is then glued to the lower edge of the board.
+
+One end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut in one of the gauge
+clamps. The slot must be cut at the right angle to give the desired
+slope to the book rest. The gauge clamps are joined with two small
+square strips of oak as shown. The small rod brace is flattened at both
+ends and a hole drilled in each to fasten it with screws as shown. The
+brass strip is bent in the middle at right angles and drilled to receive
+screws for fastening it in the corner of the upright and horizontal
+pieces.
+
+
+
+
+A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND
+
+
+The accompanying picture shows a stand that is intended primarily for
+holding a large-size dictionary. The shelves may be utilized for holding
+books, magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best if made of some
+hard wood, such as oak. Of the soft woods chestnut has the best grain
+for finishing, being hardly distinguishable from red oak.
+
+The following pieces will be necessary:
+
+  2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
+  1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S.
+  1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint edge on each piece and from
+this square up the lower ends and square lines across the inner
+surfaces to indicate the positions of the lower edges of the shelves.
+
+Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad surfaces of the shelves
+and square them to size on one edge and the two ends.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand]
+
+[Illustration: Stand Made in Oak]
+
+Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline, but do not cut to
+these lines until the gains and mortises which are to receive the ends
+of the shelves and their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying out
+these outlines at this time is done so as to give the exact width the
+shelves are to have. These dimensions can be determined by measuring
+across the sides between the outlines at the points where the shelves
+are to be placed.
+
+The shelves which have no tenons are to be let into the sides 1/4 in.
+They should be shouldered 1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove
+will not show on the face.
+
+The lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened by means of very
+small brads, the heads of which should be covered with putty, colored to
+match the finish.
+
+A suitable finish may be obtained as follows:
+
+First see that all the mill marks are removed, using a smooth plane and
+steel scraper and sandpaper, then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water
+stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. 00 paper. Apply a second
+coat of stain, diluting it by the addition of an equal volume of water.
+This is to produce a stronger contrast. Sand this lightly and put on a
+very thin coat of shellac to bind the filler and to prevent the stain in
+the filler which follows from discoloring the high lights. Sand this
+lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to the directions
+that will be found on the can. This filler should be colored in the
+following proportions: Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb.
+After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put on a coat of
+orange shellac. Follow this with several coats of some good rubbing
+varnish. The first coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled hair,
+and the last with powdered pumice stone and raw linseed or crude oil.
+
+
+
+
+A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR
+
+
+[Illustration: Arm Chair Complete]
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Arm Chair]
+
+A mission arm chair of simple design and construction is shown in the
+accompanying illustration. This chair is suitable for any room of the
+house and can be made of wood to match other furniture. Quarter-sawed
+oak is the wood most generally used, and it is also very easy to obtain.
+The stock can be ordered from the mill, cut to length, squared and
+sanded. Following is a list of the material that will be needed:
+
+  2 front legs, 2 by 2 by 26-3/4 in.
+  2 back legs, 2 by 4 by 43 in.
+  2 arm rests, 1 by 4 by 26 in.
+  5 rails, 3/4 by 4 by 21-1/2 in.
+  5 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 2-1/2 in. .
+  2 back pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
+  1 piece leather, 31 in, square.
+  1 piece burlap, 28 in, square.
+  2 pieces leather, 13 by 18 in.
+  2 pieces burlap, 13 by 18 in.
+  1 box 8 oz. tacks.
+  5-1/2 doz. ornamental nails.
+
+Start with the front legs. Cut a tenon 1-1/4 in. square and 3/4 in, long
+on one end to fit the arm rests. The mortises for the side rails are cut
+1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in, deep. The tenons on the rails are cut to fit
+these mortises, care being taken to get them all the same length between
+shoulders. The back legs are cut with an offset of 2 in. as shown in the
+detail drawing and also have mortises cut in them for the back
+crosspieces. The upright pieces in the back are fastened into the
+crosspieces by means of tenons and mortises, and should be in place when
+the crosspieces are fastened to the legs.
+
+The arms are cut from the 1 by 4 by 26-in. pieces. Be careful to get
+them so they will pair. The outside edge can be either curved or
+straight as desired. The front ends of the arms are held in place by
+mortises which fit over the tenons on the ends of the front legs, while
+the back ends are held in place by round-headed screws as shown.
+
+The chair is now ready to be glued. Be sure to get the parts together
+perfectly square, and when dry scrape off all surplus glue around the
+joints, for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the
+result of failing to remove it. Go over the parts carefully with fine
+sandpaper and remove all rough marks. Then apply the stain you wish to
+use. To make the seat, first fit boards in the bottom and nail them to
+the side rails as shown. Fill the space with hair or elastic cotton felt
+to about 3 in. above the edge of the rails. Bind this down tightly with
+a piece of burlap and tack the edges to the rails. Cut out the corners
+of the burlap so that it will fit about the posts. Put the leather on
+over this and tack the edges to the bottoms of the rails. Then finish
+with the ornamental nails as shown.
+
+To finish the back, first tack a piece of burlap over the opening, then
+place a layer of hair or cotton felt on this about 1 in. thick. Stretch
+the leather over this and fasten with ornamental nails. The back side is
+finished in the same manner, except that the hair is omitted.
+
+
+
+
+A WALL SHELF
+
+
+Coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and take a more satisfactory
+finish than close-grained woods. For this reason chestnut or oak is
+suggested for this shelf. Chestnut has a beautiful grain and is soft and
+easily worked.
+
+There will be needed the following pieces:
+
+  Sides, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Lower shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Upper shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+In making out this stock bill the pieces have been specified 1/4 in.
+wider and 1/2 in, longer than the finished piece is to be to allow for
+squaring up. The thicknesses are specified mill-planed exact so that all
+that is necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from the two
+broad surfaces.
+
+It is quite possible that one may have a particular space or a
+particular set of books to place in the shelf. In such a case the length
+of the horizontals should be lengthened or shortened to meet the
+particular demands when ordering the lumber.
+
+[Illustration: Complete Wall Shelf]
+
+Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size. They are to be all of
+the same length. Next shape up the end pieces. The amount of slope for
+the front edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces have
+been squared up and the mill-marks removed, the dadoes or grooves and
+gains may be laid out and cut.
+
+Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance of getting all the
+mill-marks off before putting on any finish. When boards are planed at
+the mill the planing is done by means of two or four knives revolving
+above or below the board--sometimes both above and below at the same
+time. These knives leave the surfaces filled with little ridges and
+hollows across the grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible
+to the eye on the unfinished surface, show up as ugly streaks upon the
+surface after it has had a finish of stain and filler applied.
+
+The joints here used are typical and the beginner can readily find how
+they are to be made from any good book on wood-working.
+
+[Illustration: Wall Shelf Detail]
+
+There are several ways of fastening the parts. They may be fastened by
+means of round-head blued screws. They may be fastened with carriage
+screws. The one in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire
+nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental heads to represent
+old-fashioned hand-wrought nails.
+
+It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain and filler before
+the parts are assembled. A suitable finish is obtained as follows: After
+the parts are thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water stain,
+wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had time to soak into the
+wood very much. Allow this to dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00
+paper, after which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste
+filler--directions will be found on the can. Follow this, when hardened,
+with several coats of floor wax.
+
+
+
+
+A PEDESTAL
+
+
+The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of
+furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in
+design and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple
+tools and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of
+quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also
+looks the best when finished. If you order the material from the mill
+ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much hard labor will be saved.
+Following is a list of the material needed:
+
+  1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S.
+  1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S
+  8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in.
+  2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S.
+  2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in.
+  1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in.
+  4 blocks, 1 in. square.
+
+[Illustration: Completed Pedestal]
+
+Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail
+them together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then
+set the heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in.
+piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on all
+sides. Pick out the best board for the top. On the under side and 1/2.
+in. in from the edges, nail four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces which
+have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view. Now fasten this
+top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top piece
+into the top board. Be careful to get this top on square with the post
+and exactly in center.
+
+The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is
+nailed to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks
+should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on.
+
+When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission
+stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After staining the wood, the surface can be given a polished or dull
+finish, as desired. Mission furniture requires a dull finish, and this
+may be obtained by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on the wood.
+
+
+
+
+MAGAZINE RACK
+
+
+The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack that will find favor with
+many amateur wood-workers on account of its simplicity in design and its
+rich, massive appearance when properly finished. It is so constructed
+that each piece may be polished, stained and finished before it is
+finally put together. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use.
+Plain-sawed oak looks well, but it is more liable to warp than
+quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces as wide as the ones
+here used. Following is a list of the material needed:
+
+   4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
+   5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S.
+  20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long.
+
+Considerable labor can be saved if the material be ordered from the mill
+ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The corner posts should be made
+first. The most convenient and accurate method of laying out the
+mortises is to square one end of each post and lay them on the bench
+flat, with the squared ends even with each other; then clamp them
+securely and lay out the mortises on one side across all four pieces at
+once; then loosen the clamp and project the marks to the other side with
+a try-square. Now saw along these marks, making each cut just deep
+enough to bring the mortises diagonally across the piece from one corner
+to the opposite corner as shown in the detail sketch. Be careful not to
+get the mortises wider than the shelves are thick. Bevel the tops of the
+posts as shown.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Magazine Rack]
+
+[Illustration: Magazine Rack Complete]
+
+See that the ends of the shelves are square and smooth, then set a
+scratch gauge so that the scriber is just 2 in. from the face of the
+block and mark this distance off each way from the corner of the
+shelves. Saw these corners diagonally across as shown, being careful not
+to saw off too much.
+
+The parts can now be assembled. Place all the parts in position, then
+pass a rope around each end and twist it up tightly with a small stick.
+If this is properly done, you can now pick up the rack and handle it in
+any way you wish. The screws can now be put in the corners. You can use
+flat-head screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head blue
+screws and let the heads project. After the screws are all in, dress off
+all unevenness where the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark
+each shelf and post so that you can put it together again after the
+parts are finished. Take the rack apart and transfer the marks to some
+part of the mortises and shelves that will not be covered with the
+finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish you wish to use and when
+the parts are thoroughly dry they can be reassembled and your rack will
+be complete.
+
+
+
+
+A HALL TREE
+
+
+When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying illustration use
+quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for
+finishing in the different mission stains. This is a very useful and
+attractive piece of mission furniture and is also very easy to
+construct. The stock can be purchased ready cut to length, mill-planed
+and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list:
+
+  1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in.
+  4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in.
+  8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in.
+  4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in.
+
+[Illustration: Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree]
+
+First square up all the posts and bevel them at the tops as shown. Then
+cut the mortises making them 1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the
+tenons on the braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the
+distance between the shoulders of the braces all of the same length. A
+good way to do this is to place them all side by side on a flat surface
+with the ends square and lay them all out at once. The top arms can be
+made in the same manner. The tenons should fit good and tight in all the
+posts.
+
+The parts can now be glued and clamped together. When they are dry,
+scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints and go over the whole
+with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the finish you like
+best or the one that will match your other furniture. Purchase a few
+hooks at a hardware store and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the
+hall tree is complete.
+
+
+
+
+A TABLE FOR THE DEN
+
+
+The table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for
+the den; it might be used in any other part of the house as well. It may
+be built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed white oak. The wood
+should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections.
+
+Order the material as follows:
+
+  1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S.
+  4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S.
+  2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+  2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S.
+  4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.
+
+Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut the four legs to
+length. To get the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of
+the tenons, lay out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel
+along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.
+
+[Illustration: Table Completed]
+
+The top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts
+to "set in." This is to give the frame more rigidity. The lower
+horizontals or stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed.
+That the keys may be alike in size, a good plan is to make them first,
+then make the mortises in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to
+the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so, then to length and
+joint one edge straight and square. Next lay off across the key the
+lines A and B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and B 3/8
+in. Draw a sloping line through these points and work this edge of the
+key to size and shape. Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise,
+in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in. for the top
+opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of a Den Table]
+
+The most satisfactory finish for mission designs, and the easiest to
+apply, is wax. It is an old finish that was superseded by varnish. Our
+ancestors used to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine.
+Cut up the beeswax and add to it about one-third its volume of
+turpentine. Heat to the boiling point in a double boiler. Or, melt a
+quantity of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine. Care
+must be taken that the turpentine shall not catch fire.
+
+Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased now-a-days. They
+require a smooth surface and a thin application for a successful result.
+Too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly, white,
+chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. These are especially noticeable
+upon dark finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not
+necessary if the ordinary wax is properly applied. 1--Stain the wood, if
+a very dark finish is desired. 2--If the wood is coarse grained, put on
+one or two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth
+surface may be prepared. Allow the stain 12 hours in which to dry, also
+each coat of filler. 3--With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax
+as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste form. 4--Allow this
+to stand five or ten minutes, then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to
+polish. 5--Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat.
+
+[Illustration: WINDOW SEAT Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the
+Covering]
+
+
+
+
+A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT
+
+
+A portable window seat of neat appearance, which is designed to take the
+place of a cedar chest, is shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is
+taken to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically airtight
+and mothproof, providing a place in which to store extra bedding or
+furs. The following list of materials will be needed:
+
+  36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box.
+   1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long.
+  32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips.
+  54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips.
+  16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws.
+   1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in.
+   2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in.
+   2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in.
+  20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.
+
+The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail the sides and the bottom
+to the ends, being careful to get the box perfectly square. The corners
+can be dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it takes in making
+the dovetailed joints will greatly add to the durability of the box. The
+box can be made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends to posts 2
+in. square placed on the inside. Cleats should also be placed on the
+inside, at the bottom, as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to
+the bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached with long
+screws run through from the bottom of the box.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the
+Burlap]
+
+The green burlap is glued to the outside of the box. Be careful not to
+apply too much glue on the burlap, or it will soak through. This should
+be tried out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application of glue
+is ascertained, applied to one side of the burlap and stuck on the box.
+Place the cloth on so the weave will run in the same direction on all
+sides. The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as shown in Fig. 2.
+Care should be taken to make the mitered joints a tight fit. After the
+miters are all cut and the location of the squares, found, they are
+marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed over the green before
+the slats are fastened permanently. The slats are put in place over the
+burlap and fastened with small brass screws.
+
+Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing the edges to lap over
+the ends and sides and fasten under the side strips. This top can be
+stuffed with excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads driven in
+to hold it in place. The slats can be stained any color to suit the
+maker. They should be removed from the box when being stained so as not
+to spot or stain the burlap.
+
+
+
+
+QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE
+
+
+The mission settee shown in the accompanying picture should be made of
+quarter-sawed white oak. The material needed will be as follows:
+
+   4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+  12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+   1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S.
+   1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S.
+   1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S.
+   2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S.
+   2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+
+[Illustration: Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak]
+
+On account of the unusual width of the pieces that go into the makeup of
+this settee, it will be necessary to have the wood thoroughly seasoned
+before putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause them to
+crack open.
+
+Begin work by making the ends of the settee first. Cut the posts to
+length, chamfering both top and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not
+splinter or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and cut the mortises
+as shown on the drawing. With the posts finished, lay out the end rails,
+cutting the tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the slats are
+to be fitted.
+
+It should be noted that the drawing calls for the "setting in" of the
+whole of the ends of the slats, there being no shoulders. This is much
+easier and gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides of
+the mortises are carefully cut.
+
+Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts and then put the ends
+together. In addition to the glue it will be well to through pin each of
+the tenons and mortises. These pins may be put in flush and permanent on
+the ends of the settee. On the side rails, however, the pins are to be
+allowed to project so that they can be removed, and no glue is used in
+the joint.
+
+While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare the rails of front and
+back. Scrape and sandpaper these and when the clamps can be removed from
+the ends put the whole frame together. The ends of all projecting tenons
+are chamfered.
+
+The illustration shows a loose leather cushion. There is quite a variety
+of materials out of which such a cushion can be made. The best, of
+course, is leather. In the highest class of furniture where loose
+cushions are used, the seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame
+together on which is woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is
+fastened to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the cushions
+when placed upon it make a very comfortable seat. The stock bill for
+this settee calls for such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if
+desired.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Oak Settee]
+
+This piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak. See
+that all glue is removed from the surface, and that the wood is clean
+and smooth, and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper this
+lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain has thoroughly dried, and put
+on a coat of lackluster or an equivalent.
+
+
+
+
+A SCREEN
+
+
+In selecting or making up mission furniture for the home, a screen is
+necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room. The screen shown
+in the accompanying illustration consists of a few parts which are
+easily put together. The stock can be bought of any planing mill planed,
+sanded and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which should be of dark
+color, can be purchased at a dry goods store. The following list of
+material will be needed.
+
+  6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in.
+  6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in.
+  6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in.
+  3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in.
+  6 yd. of cloth.
+  4 double-acting hinges.
+  2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.
+
+Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep in the center of one
+surface on each of the 3/4-in. rails. Cut out the ends with a compass
+saw. The five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges of these
+panels are inserted in the grooves of the 3/4-in. rails, using plenty of
+good glue.
+
+When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours the screen frame can be
+put together. Holes for the screws should be bored through the posts
+where the 3/4-in. rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain
+of each rail.
+
+Scrape off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well. When
+this is done the finish can be applied. Any one of the mission stains
+can be used and finished with wax and polished.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of One Section]
+
+The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each end and one 1/2-in. rail
+put through each hem. Place the top rail in position and screw it fast.
+Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. rail with screws at
+the bottom. Each section of the screen is finished in the same way.
+
+The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end of the posts in the
+same manner as hanging a door.
+
+The sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder. Instead
+of using cloth, heavy paste-board, or board made up to take the place
+of plaster on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming a
+ground that will take paint and bronze decorations. A piece of this
+material can be easily cut to fit the opening in each section.
+
+[Illustration: Screen of Three Sections]
+
+
+
+
+A MISSION BOOKRACK
+
+
+The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission
+lines. Enough stock may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over 1
+in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, secure the
+following, cut to exact lengths:
+
+  2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S.
+  4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S.
+  8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+
+Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number
+both parts of each joint. There will be twelve lap joints, and great
+care must be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half
+the depth of each piece.
+
+First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark the width of each
+notch, lay the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get
+the exact size. Knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge
+lines for the depth of each notch.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Bookrack]
+
+Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends.
+
+In each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the
+rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews.
+
+A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring
+of the surface upon which the rack is to rest.
+
+[Illustration: The Complete Bookrack]
+
+Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well. A waxed finish
+should be used. Before applying the wax, it is well to use a very thin
+coat of shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a few hours and
+allow an interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax.
+
+Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied by cutting off part of
+two diagonally opposite racks.
+
+
+
+
+A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE
+
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Table]
+
+This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white
+oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated
+in solid pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to
+secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly
+done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to
+the white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular facing is best
+made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then
+veneering the outer surface of this. Order the following stock:
+
+  4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S.
+  4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius.
+  1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S;
+  3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S.
+  4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
+
+[Illustration: Table for the Dining-Room Set]
+
+There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the
+other. Several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready
+adjustment with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial
+manufacturers. The amateur will do well to secure a set before he
+undertakes to work these slides to shape.
+
+Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay out and work the
+mortises. The ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the
+posts. Prepare the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower
+edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare the top. After this, assemble
+this much of the frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.
+
+Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown.
+There will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing
+where it is fastened to the top, etc.
+
+For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Upon this, after it
+has hardened and been sanded with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac.
+Upon the shellac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing
+varnish. Rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with
+pulverized pumice and crude or linseed oil.
+
+If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the wood first with a
+water stain. Sand this lightly when dry, then apply a second coat of
+stain diluted one-half with water. Again sand and then apply a thin coat
+of shellac. Sand this lightly, and apply the filler and the varnish as
+described above.
+
+
+
+
+AN ARM DINING CHAIR
+
+
+[Illustration: Armchair of the Dining-Room Set]
+
+This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed oak. Quarter-sawed
+oak might be used, or black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies
+the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible. If some
+amateur craftsman should prefer to do his own surfacing, thereby saving
+somewhat on the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of each
+piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to thickness. It is hardly
+profitable to get stock entirely in the rough if the work is to be done
+by hand. The following is the stock bill:
+
+  2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
+  1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S.
+  2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
+  2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
+  2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+The design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is
+the same. Also the back leg parallels the front below the seat. In
+commercial practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than
+the fronts and the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well
+as above. As this construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all
+tenons it complicates the problem when the work is not done by
+machinery. The ambitious amateur may readily get the proportion of slant
+by measuring common chairs. For mission effects the chair looks well
+with front and back the same width.
+
+Prepare the front posts first and then the rear. The rear posts are to
+be cut from the single piece of stock specified. By proper planning both
+pieces may be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the mortises.
+
+Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the tenons. The back rails
+are to have mortises in their edges to receive the ends of the slats.
+Instead of tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to receive
+the whole end--in other words, house the ends.
+
+Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and then the front of the
+chair. After the glue has set sufficiently, assemble the remainder of
+the parts.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Armchair]
+
+Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and then apply the finish.
+
+For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed upon slats or the
+bottom may be upholstered in the usual manner, using webbing on heavy
+canvas, and then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather; the
+whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the leather with ornamental
+nails.
+
+
+
+
+A HALL BENCH
+
+
+All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in. oak, excepting the
+slats, which may be of a cheaper wood. The following list of lumber will
+be required to build it:
+
+  4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood.
+  2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood.
+  4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
+  2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
+  2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.
+  2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Hall Bench]
+
+Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in.
+material diagonally 1 in. from each corner, thus making the legs. The
+edges are planed square and the ends should be rounded a little so that
+there will be no splinters projecting. The legs are mortised 1 in. deep
+for the side rails. The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being
+taken to get the right angle and a good fit. These can now be fastened
+together, using hot glue on the entire surface of the joint.
+
+[Illustration: Bench Made of Plain Oak]
+
+While these are drying the ends can be made as shown in the plan. The 3
+by 4-in. holes are cut at equal distances apart. Be sure that each end
+is perfectly square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips at each end.
+The ends are then glued and nailed to the sides, using finishing nails,
+which are set and the holes filled with colored putty.
+
+The cleats are now fastened, extra care being taken when fastening them
+over the joints where the legs receive the side rails, as this will help
+to strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats and are placed
+at equal distances apart.
+
+The bench is now finished, but before applying the stain, see that all
+parts are free from glue and are well sandpapered.
+
+The leather cushion should be the loose kind and of a shade to harmonize
+with the finish.
+
+
+
+
+A SEWING TABLE
+
+
+This convenient and useful table will be much appreciated by any woman.
+It has two drawers for sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread
+the work upon.
+
+The following list of material will be needed for its construction. The
+sizes given are exact, so if the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready
+planed and squared, a slight allowance must be made for this.
+
+  4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
+  9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S.
+  2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S.
+
+Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with each other. The ends
+must be square with all surfaces, but need not be planed smooth as
+neither will be seen in the finished table.
+
+[Illustration: Sewing Table in Plain Oak]
+
+Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in each side and back are
+placed with the 2-in. surface out, while the three in the front have the
+2-in. surface up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the tenons, 1 in,
+by 3/8 in., with a knife and gauge lines on each end of the rails for
+the sides and back. Mark the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the
+sketch, on each end of front rails. Cut all the tenons with a backsaw
+and smooth them with a chisel.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Sewing Table]
+
+Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking measurements for each
+mortise from the tenon which is to go into it. Fit together all rails
+and legs without glue to detect any errors.
+
+See that the panels for sides and back are squared up true and the
+surfaces smooth. Mark the grooves for the panels in the side and back
+rails and legs. Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a depth
+of 1/4 in.
+
+Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides first. While the glue
+is setting, square up and smooth the top and two leaves perfectly.
+
+Now glue up the whole table, having set in the front and back rails and
+panel. The drawer slides, two on each side, should next be put in. A
+nail through them and into each leg will hold them, as there is only the
+weight of the drawers resting on them. Fasten the top with screws
+through the rails from the under side. The leaves are attached with two
+2-in. butt hinges which must be set in flush with the under surface to
+prevent a crack showing between the table top and leaf when the latter
+is raised. The small bracket hinged to the panel supports the open leaf.
+
+[Illustration: Construction of the Drawer]
+
+The drawers are now made. Allow the side to lap over the front 1/2 in.
+as shown in sketch and fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let
+into the sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed to them,
+because this would cause the drawer to stick, when the bottom expands.
+
+Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the drawer pulls.
+
+Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax if a dull gloss is
+wanted, or with one coat of shellac and two coats of varnish for a
+highly polished surface.
+
+
+
+
+A SIDE CHAIR
+
+
+A companion piece to the chair with arms and the sideboard is the side
+chair illustrated herewith. It should be made of the same kind of wood
+and finished to correspond with the armchair. Order the following stock
+list:
+
+  2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 piece for back posts, 1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  2 lower front and back rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+
+Square up the front posts to length. From the single piece specified cut
+out the back posts, giving them the amount of slant indicated in the
+drawing. Set these four posts upright in the positions they are to
+occupy relative to one another in the finished piece, and mark off, as
+with penciled circles, the approximate locations of mortises. After
+this, lay them on the bench side by side, even the lower ends and locate
+accurately the ends of the mortises. Gauge their sides.
+
+Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder lines and the cheeks of
+the tenons and cut them. Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back
+rails.
+
+[Illustration: Side Chair of Dining-Room Set]
+
+While the drawing shows a chair in which the front and back are of equal
+width, the amateur may make the back narrower if he so desires. A
+measurement of a common chair will give the proportions.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Side Chair]
+
+Place the front and the back in the clamps and after the glue has had
+time to harden, assemble the remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and
+sandpaper all the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue. Wood
+finish will not "take hold" where any glue has been allowed to remain.
+
+The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested for the armchair.
+This should not be done, however, until the finish has been applied.
+
+A simple finish is obtained by the application of a coat of paste filler
+of a soft brown color, if oak has been used. Apply and clean this off in
+the manner directed by the manufacturers and after it has had 24 hours
+in which to harden, sand it lightly with No. 00 paper. Over this apply a
+thin coat of shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper lightly with
+fine paper. Upon the shellac apply several coats of some good rubbing
+wax. Follow the directions that are to be found upon the cans, being
+careful not to apply too much at a time. If too much wax is applied, it
+stays in the small pores of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like
+appearance.
+
+
+
+
+ANOTHER PIANO BENCH
+
+
+The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut or oak and should be
+finished in the natural color for walnut, but stained some rich brown
+for oak.
+
+The following pieces will be needed:
+
+  1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S.
+
+The keys can be secured from the waste that will be cut off from the
+other parts.
+
+Square up the top in the usual manner to the size indicated in the
+working drawing. In a similar manner square up the stretcher to width
+and length.
+
+There will be no need to square the ends of the rails as they are to be
+cut off on a slant. Square up the sides or edges and then lay off and
+cut the slanting ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off and work
+the shape on their under edges.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Piano Bench]
+
+The ends are best laid off by means of a template or pattern for which a
+piece of rather heavy paper will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a
+center line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant has been
+laid out. Lay out the form at the bottom, then fold the paper along the
+center line and trace the other half. With this pattern lay off the
+outline upon the wood. For convenience in laying out the grooves for the
+rails and the mortise for the tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work
+a face edge upon each leg and allow this to remain until these joints
+have been made and the parts fitted. The shape at the bottom of the leg
+is merely suggestive and may be modified as desired.
+
+Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher. Then lay out and work the
+grooves upon the rails. Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to
+allow the leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench the bracing
+that is needed to make it stand firmly. Work the grooves in the legs and
+the mortises for the rails.
+
+[Illustration: Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak]
+
+It should be noted that the mortise for the key in the stretcher must be
+laid out before the shoulders and cheeks of the tenon on which the
+mortise is made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place to put
+the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise for the key.
+
+Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble them. No glue is
+needed. The rails are held in place by dowel pins, the heads of which
+are allowed to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental
+effect. The top is attached by means of small angle irons or by means of
+blocks and screws fastened to the corners made by top and rails.
+
+
+
+
+ANOTHER SCREEN
+
+
+The screen shown in the accompanying illustration is made of burlap and
+plain-sawed oak. The stock list follows:
+
+  2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
+  2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S.
+  1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.
+  1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S.
+  4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+The two base pieces may be shaped first. The drawing shows the form and
+the dimensions. Make use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in
+the base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges are removed to
+make the slanting sides.
+
+Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting the tenons at the
+bottoms, and shaping the tops as shown.
+
+Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown, working the tenons
+upon the ends of each and the mortises in the lower two for the tenons
+of the middle vertical.
+
+For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece and square one end of
+each to that. Lay off the curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out.
+Use this block as a pattern or template to lay off the others.
+
+Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts, then assemble them,
+using clamps and good hot glue. Take care to see that there is no warp
+in the frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the frame has
+hardened, remove the clamps and attach the base blocks and the braces.
+The braces are secured by means of round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels]
+
+Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish as desired.
+
+For the paneling, frames will be needed about which to fasten the
+burlap. These may be made of 1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces
+will be necessary:
+
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S.
+  4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S.
+  4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+
+Make these frames enough smaller than the openings they are to occupy to
+allow for burlap and tacks. These frames are held in place by putting
+fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap is attached.
+Holes are bored in the rails to correspond to them. The lower edges of
+the frames are held in place by nails inserted up through the rails upon
+which the frames rest.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Frame]
+
+
+
+
+A FOLDING CARD TABLE
+
+
+The accompanying sketch shows the details of a card table that can be
+folded up and carried about or stored away when not in use. We would
+advise making two tables at the same time, as the material for both can
+be purchased nearly as cheaply as for one. The material necessary for
+making one table is given in the following list:
+
+   1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar.
+   2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar.
+   4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak.
+   4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak.
+   4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak.
+   4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with
+     batten.
+   1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square.
+   4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long.
+  30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled
+     3/16 in.
+   4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep.
+   2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long.
+   4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips.
+   1 piece felt, 1 yd. square.
+   1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt).
+   1 pt. wood stain.
+   3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long.
+  Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.
+
+Begin by squaring up the four legs making them all 24-3/4 in. long and 1
+in. square. Also square up the crosspieces marked B in the detail
+drawing. These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in. holes about
+1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins.
+Measure back 1-1/2 in. from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole,
+7/8 in. deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each leg, 3/4 in.
+long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in. hole. Round the corners of
+the piece B at the top as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together
+with glue and brads, being careful to get them square with each other.
+After the glue is set bore a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7
+in. from the edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the
+corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then stain and polish.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Card Table]
+
+[Illustration: Card Table Ready for Use]
+
+Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch on a level surface with
+the 7/8-in. edge up, place the cardboard on top and tack it fast to the
+pieces, using 6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it fast
+also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with brads. The four pieces of
+electric wire moulding should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or
+the same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood about 4 in.
+long in the groove at each end of the moulding, plane down and fasten
+with brads. Next take the thin batten or covering strip that comes with
+the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center, 6 in, from one end,
+and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in. from the other end. With a gouge cut a
+slot 1/4 in. wide from one hole to the other in the center as shown in
+the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot smooth and then fasten the batten
+to the moulding with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a point
+3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill 1/4-in. holes through the
+moulding at the small ends of the slots. These are for the ends of the
+brace rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they are open. Tack the
+two pieces of moulding marked F and J on the remaining edges of the
+cardboard with the slots facing in and the large holes of the slots at
+opposite sides, then place the other two pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside
+of these, or just the length of the cross ends of the legs, with the
+slots facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast with 4-oz.
+tacks. Use brads at the ends and be careful that they do not enter the
+1/4-in. holes. This part of the table can now be stained or painted the
+same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also be stained at this
+time.
+
+The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise. One end should be 1
+in. long and should be square with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center
+to center and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at a slight
+angle out from square. Just at this bend raise a burr with a sharp
+chisel to keep the washer on. Now place five of the copper washers on
+the 1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will not slip off.
+They should be loose so that they will roll and slip on the brace. Slip
+a washer on the other end and put the end of the rod through the
+3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side, place another washer
+on the rod, saw off and rivet down the end.
+
+[Illustration: The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top]
+
+To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one of the braces and the
+washers in the large hole in the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in.
+hole in the crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then drive an
+oak dowel or rod into each end. This is the hinge or pivot that the legs
+swing on. When the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should
+spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock the leg in place.
+Rubber tips should be put on the bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden
+buttons should be made and fastened to the cardboard as shown at K for
+locking the legs when they are closed.
+
+The felt can now be put on the top of the table. Stretch it tightly and
+then tack the edges securely to the sides of the table. Now fasten on
+the 3/8-in. side pieces and the brass corners with the small brass
+screws as shown on the drawing, and the table is complete.
+
+
+
+
+MAGAZINE STAND
+
+
+If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting out the material
+used in this piece of furniture, it can be purchased from a mill already
+planed, sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any kind of wood
+can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak with a mission stain and waxed,
+gives the best appearance. The following pieces will be needed:
+
+  2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.
+  2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.
+  4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws.
+
+Take the four shelves and line them up with their backs and ends even
+and clamp them together firmly. Mark the places for the slats across the
+edges of the shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends. Use
+a square to get the lines at right angles to the surface. Another line
+is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. The ends of
+the shelves are marked in the same manner, beginning from the back edges
+and making the first line 1/2 in. from them, and then another line 1-1/8
+in. from the first, or the width of the slat. Make a line across the
+ends, 1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and another
+line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This will leave 2-1/2 in. and
+4-1/2 in. of space respectively from the front edges of the 10-in. and
+12-in. shelves. Shift the shelves so they will be even on the front
+edges and mark them the same as the back. Make a 1/4-in. depth mark on
+all edges between the lines and cut this material out. This can be done
+while the shelves are clamped together.
+
+[Illustration: Stand Complete]
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Stand]
+
+Place the shelves on end in their order and start by screwing on the
+back slats on both ends first, then screw on the two front slats. Turn
+the stand down and put on the two back slats. Attach the two front slats
+on the top shelf first. Then bore the places for the remaining holes and
+turn in the screws. This will bend the slats into place. The two
+remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the shelves without letting
+them in, making the spaces equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the
+bottom shelf and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart, sandpapered
+and stained.
+
+
+
+
+A TABOURET
+
+
+The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman design as shown in
+the accompanying illustration can be purchased from the mill ready cut
+to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use
+and it is also the easiest to secure. Order the following pieces:
+
+  4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long.
+  1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square.
+  4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in.
+  4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.
+
+First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at an angle of 30 deg. and
+hollow out the lower part of the legs as shown in the detail sketch.
+Clamp them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at
+once. Cut the tenons on the rails to fit these mortises. Lay them out in
+the same manner as the posts so as to get them all the same distance
+between shoulders. The upper rails should be cut out underneath as
+shown.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Tabouret]
+
+The rails and posts can now be glued together. Be careful to get them
+joined perfectly square. When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown.
+This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws from the inside.
+Remove all surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not
+take where there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper and
+remove all rough spots, then apply the finish you like best.
+
+[Illustration: Finished Tabouret]
+
+[Illustration: Complete Porch Swing]
+
+
+
+
+A PORCH SWING
+
+
+The porch swing shown in the illustration can be made of southern pine
+at a very moderate cost. It should be suspended by rustless black chains
+and eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions are desired
+they can be made up quite cheaply of elastic felt covered with denim
+cloth.
+
+These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought at the mill:
+
+  2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S.
+  1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S.
+  2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S.
+  2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S.
+  5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S.
+  8 ft. flooring for bottom.
+  2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.
+
+Plane and square the ends of all the rails and posts. Lay out the lap
+joints for the back rails and posts. Use a knife line for this and saw
+exactly to the line to avoid trimming with the chisel. When sawing be
+careful to cut exactly halfway through the thickness of each piece. In
+the same way make the lap joints between the front rail and posts. Have
+the two end rails exactly the same length and proceed to fasten the
+front and back posts to them, using 4-in. lag screws and washers. Bore
+through the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails for the
+lag screws.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Porch Swing]
+
+The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails, or a 3/8-in. groove
+may be planed in these rails, the entire distance between joints, to
+receive the slats. A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm
+rests lap over the back posts and are held to them with 2-in.
+round-head screws. They may be fastened to the top of the front posts
+with round-head screws or dowel pins.
+
+Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat, or 7/8-in. board may be
+used if desired. Fasten the cleats, which support the seat, to the front
+and back lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws.
+
+To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine, stain it brown or
+black and finish with two coats of waterproof varnish.
+
+
+
+
+A FOOT WARMER
+
+
+This foot warmer is so constructed that two bricks may be heated and
+placed inside of the stool.
+
+Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following pieces will be
+needed:
+
+  4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S.
+  4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S.
+  1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
+  4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in.
+  1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge.
+  2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.
+
+The work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the
+mortises for the rails. Tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit
+in the mortises made in the posts. They are then glued together, care
+being taken to get the stool perfectly square.
+
+The top frame can now be made and covered with the sheet of brass. The
+frame has mitered corners and the inside of the frame must be even with
+the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to the stool with the
+two hinges on the back and the elbow catch on the front side to keep it
+closed.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Foot Warmer]
+
+The design on the brass can be made by tacking it on a board, laying out
+the design and piercing the background with some sharp-pointed tool.
+This leaves the design raised with a smooth surface.
+
+The brass can now be removed from the board, placed on the frame and
+fastened with the ornamental tacks.
+
+Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside of the rails with
+asbestos; then place the bricks on the inside of the stool. Both should
+fit up tight to the brass when the bottom is in place.
+
+[Illustration: Oak Stool with Brass Cover]
+
+The stool is now ready for the finish, which can be of some stain to
+match the other furniture in the room where it is to be used.
+
+
+
+
+A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM
+
+
+This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood and finished to match
+other pieces of furniture in the room, but as it is of mission design,
+oak is the most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain so
+nicely.
+
+The material required is as follows:
+
+  4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S.
+  2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S.
+  2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
+  2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
+  4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S.
+  2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Plate Rack]
+
+This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some allowance is made
+for trimming on the edges and ends.
+
+Begin work by squaring up the posts to length and beveling the top ends,
+then trim the back and side boards. These are nailed together, lapping
+the back board over the side board. The posts are fastened with dowels
+placed at equal distances apart. Hot glue is used in the joints.
+
+[Illustration: Dining-Room Plate Rack]
+
+The four shelves are now put in place. These are notched out to fit
+around the posts and are nailed and glued.
+
+While the glue is hardening on these, the plate rails can be cut. These
+have 7/8-in grooves near the front edge to receive the lower edge of the
+plates when resting against the two strips placed 5 in. above the plate
+rails and far enough back to prevent the plates from falling forward.
+
+The rails are fastened to the two sides with dowels, three at each end
+being sufficient. The two strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces.
+The top is then put on. This fits around the posts and rests on the
+sides. Hooks on which to hang cups are placed under the rails. All parts
+are thoroughly sandpapered before the stain is applied.
+
+
+
+
+A MISSION SIDEBOARD
+
+
+[Illustration: Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set]
+
+The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the armchair and side chair
+with similar paneling design. Like these chairs the sideboard should be
+made of hard wood and should be similarly finished. The drawer pulls, if
+not made of wood, should be of such metal and design as to harmonize
+with the mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines are
+appropriate.
+
+Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made of some soft wood, such as
+yellow poplar. The small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for
+holding silverware.
+
+Obtain the following stock:
+
+   2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S.
+   2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S.
+   1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S.
+   2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
+   1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
+   2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
+   2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
+   2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S.
+   4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+   1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+   1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+   1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+   2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
+   2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
+   1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+   1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S.
+   2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S.
+   1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
+   4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
+   4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
+   3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+  10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
+   2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock.
+
+A detailed description is hardly necessary for such a piece of work as
+this. Anyone capable of building it, will know the order of the
+different operations that are required in its construction.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Sideboard]
+
+It may be said that the two back panels at either side of the small
+drawers may be filled with beveled plate glass instead of wood if one so
+choose.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+Folio 4: "Millplaned" changed to "Mill-planed"
+Folio 34: Started new paragraph at "The bottom board...."
+Added captions to Illustrations:
+Folio 33: "Umbrella Stand"
+Folio 34: "Detail of Umbrella Stand"
+Folio 54" "Detail of Pedestal"
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor
+
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+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Mission Furniture, How To Make It,
+      Part Three, by H.H. Windsor.
+    </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Mission Furniture
+       How to Make It, Part 3
+
+Author: H. H. Windsor
+
+Release Date: November 30, 2007 [EBook #23666]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by K Nordquist, Ross Wilburn and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<h1>MISSION FURNITURE</h1>
+<h2>HOW TO MAKE IT</h2>
+
+
+<h2>PART THREE</h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS</h2>
+
+
+
+<h3>CHICAGO</h3>
+<h3>POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY</h3>
+
+
+<h4>Copyrighted, 1912</h4>
+
+<h4>BY H. H. WINDSOR</h4>
+
+<p>
+This book is one of the series of
+handbooks on industrial subjects
+being published by the Popular
+Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these
+books are "written so you can understand
+it," and are intended to furnish
+information on mechanical subjects at a
+price within the reach of all.</p>
+
+<p>The texts and illustrations have been
+prepared expressly for this Handbook
+Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and
+have been revised by the editor of Popular
+Mechanics.</p>
+
+<p>The dimensions given in the stock
+list contained in the description
+of each piece of furniture illustrated
+in this book call for material
+mill-planed, sanded and cut to length.
+If the workman desires to have a complete
+home-made article, allowance
+must be made in the dimensions for
+planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S
+and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface
+four sides and surface two sides.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+
+<ul><li><a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#A_PIANO_BENCH"><b>A PIANO BENCH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">5</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_LIBRARY_TABLE"><b>A LIBRARY TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">7</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_PRINCESS_DRESSER"><b>A PRINCESS DRESSER</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">10</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_SEWING_BOX"><b>A SEWING BOX</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">14</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_FERN_STAND"><b>A FERN STAND</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">17</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_WARDROBE"><b>A WARDROBE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">20</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_FINISH"><b>A FINISH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">24</span></li>
+<li><a href="#AN_OAK_TABLE"><b>AN OAK TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">25</span></li>
+<li><a href="#BOOK_TROUGH"><b>BOOK TROUGH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">28</span></li>
+<li><a href="#AN_OAK_SERVING_TABLE"><b>AN OAK SERVING TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">30</span></li>
+<li><a href="#AN_UMBRELLA_STAND"><b>AN UMBRELLA STAND</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">33</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_CHAFING-DISH_BUFFET"><b>A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">35</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_WRITING_DESK"><b>A WRITING DESK</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">38</span></li>
+<li><a href="#MUSIC_RACK_AND_BOOKSTAND"><b>MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND</b></a><span style="margin-left:
+2em;">41</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_DICTIONARY_AND_MAGAZINE_STAND"><b>A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">43</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_LEATHER_BACK_ARM_CHAIR"><b>A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">47</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_WALL_SHELF"><b>A WALL SHELF</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">50</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_PEDESTAL"><b>A PEDESTAL</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">53</span></li>
+<li><a href="#MAGAZINE_RACK"><b>MAGAZINE RACK</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">55</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_HALL_TREE"><b>A HALL TREE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">58</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_TABLE_FOR_THE_DEN"><b>A TABLE FOR THE DEN</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">60</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_BURLAP-COVERED_WINDOW_SEAT"><b>A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">64</span></li>
+<li><a href="#QUARTER-SAWED_OAK_SETTEE"><b>QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">67</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_SCREEN"><b>A SCREEN</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">71, 94</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_MISSION_BOOKRACK"><b>A MISSION BOOKRACK</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">74</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_ROUND_EXTENSION_DINING_TABLE"><b>A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">75</span></li>
+<li><a href="#AN_ARM_DINING_CHAIR"><b>AN ARM DINING CHAIR</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">79</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_HALL_BENCH"><b>A HALL BENCH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">82</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_SEWING_TABLE"><b>A SEWING TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">84</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_SIDE_CHAIR"><b>A SIDE CHAIR</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">88</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ANOTHER_PIANO_BENCH"><b>ANOTHER PIANO BENCH</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">91</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ANOTHER_SCREEN"><b>ANOTHER SCREEN</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">95</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_FOLDING_CARD_TABLE"><b>A FOLDING CARD TABLE</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">97</span></li>
+<li><a href="#MAGAZINE_STAND"><b>MAGAZINE STAND</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">102</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_TABOURET"><b>A TABOURET</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">105</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_PORCH_SWING"><b>A PORCH SWING</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">109</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_FOOT_WARMER"><b>A FOOT WARMER</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">111</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_PLATE_RACK_FOR_THE_DINING_ROOM"><b>A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">113</span></li>
+<li><a href="#A_MISSION_SIDEBOARD"><b>A MISSION SIDEBOARD</b></a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">116</span></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+
+<ul><li><a href="#Piano_Bench_in_Black_Walnut">Piano Bench in Black Walnut</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">5</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench">Detail of the Piano Bench</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">6</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Library_Table">Detail of the Library Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">8</span></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Finished_Library_Table">The Finished Library Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">9</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Dresser_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak">Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">11</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Princess_Dresser">Detail of the Princess Dresser</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">12</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Sewing_Box_Made_of_Walnut_and_Ash">Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">13</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Sewing_Box">Detail of the Sewing Box</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">16</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Fern_Stand">Detail of the Fern Stand</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">18</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Finished_Stand_in_Quartered_Oak">Finished Stand in Quartered Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">19</span></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Wardrobe_Complete">The Wardrobe Complete</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">21</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Wardrobe">Detail of the Wardrobe</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">23</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Construction">Detail of Construction</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">26</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Finished_Table">Finished Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">26</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Book_Trough">Detail of Book Trough</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">28</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Book_Trough_Complete">Book Trough Complete</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">29</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Serving_Table_Complete">Serving Table Complete</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">30</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Serving_Table">Detail of Serving Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">32</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Umbrella_Stand">Umbrella Stand</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">33</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Umbrella_Stand">Detail of Umbrella Stand</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">34</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Buffet_in_Quartered_Oak">Buffet in Quartered Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">35</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Method_of_Fastening_with_Screws">Method of Fastening with Screws</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">36</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Chafing-Dish_Buffet">Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">37</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Writing_Desk_Made_of_Plain-Sawed_Oak">Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">39</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Writing_Desk">Detail of the Writing Desk</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">40</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Complete_Stand">Complete Stand</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">41</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Stand">Detail of the Stand</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">42</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Dictionary_and_Magazine_Stand">Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">44</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Stand_Made_in_Oak">Stand Made in Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">45</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Arm_Chair_Complete">Arm Chair Complete</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">47</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Arm_Chair">Detail of the Arm Chair</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">48</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Complete_Wall_Shelf">Complete Wall Shelf</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">51</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Wall_Shelf_Detail">Wall Shelf Detail</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">52</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Completed_Pedestal">Completed Pedestal</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">53</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Pedestal">Detail of Pedestal</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">54</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Magazine_Rack">Detail of the Magazine Rack</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">55</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Magazine_Rack_Complete">Magazine Rack Complete</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">56</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_and_Finished_View_of_Hall_Tree">Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">59</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Table_Completed">Table Completed</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">62</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_a_Den_Table">Detail of a Den Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">63</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Window_Seat">Fig. 1&mdash;The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">64</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Design_of_the_Covering_Strip">Fig. 2&mdash;Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">66</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Mission_Settee_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak">Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">68</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Oak_Settee">Detail of the Oak Settee</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">70</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_One_Section">Detail of One Section</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">72</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Screen_of_Three_Sections">Screen of Three Sections</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">73</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Bookrack">Detail of the Bookrack</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">74</span></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Complete_Bookrack">The Complete Bookrack</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">75</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Table">Detail of the Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">76</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Table_for_the_Dining-Room_Set">Table for the Dining-Room Set</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">77</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Armchair_of_the_Dining-Room_Set">Armchair of the Dining-Room Set</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">79</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Armchair">Detail of the Armchair</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">81</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Hall_Bench">Detail of the Hall Bench</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">82</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Bench_Made_of_Plain_Oak">Bench Made of Plain Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">83</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Sewing_Table_in_Plain_Oak">Sewing Table in Plain Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">85</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Sewing_Table">Detail of the Sewing Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">86</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Construction_of_the_Drawer">Construction of the Drawer</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">87</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Side_Chair_of_Dining-Room_Set">Side Chair of Dining-Room Set</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">89</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Side_Chair">Detail of the Side Chair</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">90</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench2">Detail of the Piano Bench</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">92</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Piano_Bench_in_Quarter-Sawed_Oak">Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">93</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Plain-Oak_Frame">Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">95</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Frame">Detail of the Frame</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">97</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Card_Table">Detail of the Card Table</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">98</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Card_Table_Ready_for_Use">Card Table Ready for Use</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">99</span></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Legs_Fold_on_the_Under">The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">101</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Stand_Complete">Stand Complete</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">103</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Stand">Detail of Stand</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">104</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Tabouret">Detail of Tabouret</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">106</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Finished_Tabouret">Finished Tabouret</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">107</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Complete_Porch_Swing">Complete Porch Swing</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">108</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Porch_Swing">Detail of the Porch Swing</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">110</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Foot_Warmer">Detail of the Foot Warmer</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">112</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Oak_Stool">Oak Stool with Brass Cover</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">113</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_Plate_Rack">Detail of Plate Rack</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">114</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Dining-Room_Plate_Rack">Dining-Room Plate Rack</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">115</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Sideboard_for_the_Dining-Room_Set">Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">116</span></li>
+<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Sideboard">Detail of the Sideboard</a>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">118</span></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[5]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_PIANO_BENCH" id="A_PIANO_BENCH"></a>A PIANO BENCH</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Piano_Bench_in_Black_Walnut" id="Piano_Bench_in_Black_Walnut"></a>
+<img src="images/i-005.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt=""/>
+<span class="caption">Piano Bench in Black Walnut</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture
+was made of black walnut and was finished
+natural. The finish was applied in the following
+manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and
+sandpapered, then the surface was covered with a
+coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had stood
+several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate
+the wood, the surplus liquid was wiped off with a
+flannel cloth. After the oil had stood for 48 hours,
+a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to
+harden overnight. The next morning this shellac
+<span class='pagenum'>[6]</span>
+was sandpapered lightly with No. 00 paper and a
+coat of floor wax was applied according to the directions
+which are found upon every can. Two
+more coats of wax were applied after intervals of
+half an hour and the finish was completed. The effect
+is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich
+color of the wood and the shellac and wax serve to
+preserve the color. The following stock is needed:</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>With the exception of the legs all the stock is
+specified mill-planed to thickness upon two surfaces.
+The legs are specified planed on four sides. Square
+the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc.,
+to width and length.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench" id="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench"></a>
+<img src="images/i-006.jpg" width="600" height="351" alt=""/>
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Piano Bench</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are
+best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into
+the
+<span class='pagenum'>[7]</span> rails. The reason for this is obvious&mdash;it is a difficult
+matter to fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are
+tenoned. When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths
+adjusts itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the
+mortises carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting
+the shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike.</p>
+
+<p>Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench
+together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher
+and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either
+by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_LIBRARY_TABLE" id="A_LIBRARY_TABLE"></a>A LIBRARY TABLE</h2>
+
+
+<p>A library table of neat appearance and correct
+proportions is shown in the accompanying sketch
+and detail drawing. This table looks best when finished
+in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the
+other furniture woods can be used if desired. If
+the material is ordered from the mill cut to length,
+squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can
+be avoided. Order the following pieces:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.</li></ul>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[8]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Library_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Library_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-008.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="Detail of the Library Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Library Table</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[9]</span></p>
+
+<p>Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and
+squaring them up and laying out the mortises for
+the shelves as shown in section BB. Care should
+be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut
+the same height. This is best done by placing the
+four legs side by side with the ends square, and
+then laying out the mortises across all four at once
+with a try-square.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="The_Finished_Library_Table" id="The_Finished_Library_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-009.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="The Finished Library Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Finished Library Table</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The table top is made of several boards which
+are doweled and glued together. Be careful to
+get the best side of each board up and have the
+joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out
+for the posts as shown. The posts are to be fastened
+to the board by means of screws. The holes
+can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged.
+The top rails are also fastened to the top board by
+means of screws.</p>
+
+<p>The end pieces can now be made. Two or more
+<span class='pagenum'>[10]</span>
+boards will have to be glued together for these. The
+top corners will have to be cut to fit about the
+top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to
+the top board. The shelves also have the corners
+cut to fit into the mortises in the posts. They are
+held to the end boards by means of screws.</p>
+
+<p>If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight,
+they can be glued and screwed together, which will
+complete the table except for the slats and drawers.
+The slats can be fastened on with nails, then
+the heads covered with fancy nails which can be
+secured for this purpose. The drawer supports can
+now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards
+as shown. A bottom brace should be fastened under
+the lower shelves to help steady the table. The
+two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch.
+No handles are needed as the lower edge of the
+front board can be used for pulling them out.</p>
+
+<p>When the table is complete it should be carefully
+gone over with fine sandpaper and all rough spots
+removed. Scrape the glue from about the joints as
+finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply
+the stain preferred or the one that matches the
+other furniture. This can be any of the many stains
+supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_PRINCESS_DRESSER" id="A_PRINCESS_DRESSER"></a>A PRINCESS DRESSER</h2>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[11]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 343px;">
+<a name="Dresser_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak" id="Dresser_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-011.jpg" width="343" height="600" alt=""/>
+<span class="caption">Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned
+and of pleasing appearance is shown in the
+accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The cost
+is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away,
+a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering
+<span class='pagenum'>[12]</span>
+the material ready cut to length, squared and
+sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the
+material needed will be as follows:</p>
+
+
+
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>The following pieces may be of any soft wood:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.</li>
+<li>6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.</li>
+<li>2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.</li>
+<li>1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.</li>
+<li>4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of
+equal length. Either chamfer or round the upper
+ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid out
+and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are
+all made and then marked and cut directly from
+each tenon. The posts as well as the end rails
+should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in.
+end panels.</p>
+
+<p>The top board should have the corners cut to fit
+about the posts. The corners of the back board
+should be rounded as shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The end sections of the dresser can be glued together
+first, care being taken to get the joints
+square and tight. When these are dry the side rails
+and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place.
+The top board is held in position by means of screws
+through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides
+of the rails.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[13]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 525px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Princess_Dresser" id="Detail_of_the_Princess_Dresser"></a>
+<img src="images/i-013.jpg" width="525" height="600" alt="Detail of the Princess Dresser" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Princess Dresser</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The mirror frame is made by mortising the end
+pieces with the side pieces as shown. It is rabbeted
+on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in. mirror.
+After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame
+a thin wood covering should be tacked on the back
+to protect the glass. The frame swings between
+<span class='pagenum'>[14]</span>
+two upright posts which are securely fastened to
+the body of the dresser as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner.
+The drawing shows two drawers in the top
+compartment, but one exactly like the lower can be
+made and used instead by simply leaving out the
+1 in. partition. Suitable handles for the drawers
+can be purchased at any hardware store.</p>
+
+<p>The back is made of soft wood and is put on in
+the usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from
+about the joints as the stain will not take where
+there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper
+and apply the stain desired, which may be
+any of the many mission stains supplied by the
+trade for this purpose.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_SEWING_BOX" id="A_SEWING_BOX"></a>A SEWING BOX</h2>
+
+
+<p>A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite
+as convenient as unique, is shown in the illustration.
+The material is walnut and ash. The posts
+are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are
+finished in their natural colors. The following is
+the stock bill:</p>
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut.</li>
+<li>1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut.</li>
+<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash.</span></li>
+<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut.</span></li>
+<li>72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.</li></ul>
+
+<p>In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine
+the lengths of pieces having like widths and thicknesses.</p>
+
+<p>If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter
+indicated for the verticals, it is an easy matter to
+<span class='pagenum'>[15]</span>
+take a square piece of stock, lay it off and work it
+into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises
+may again be planed until it has 16 and then 32
+sides. The rest may be removed with sandpaper.
+Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will be
+available. Saw these posts to length and leave the
+ends square.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Sewing_Box_Made_of_Walnut_and_Ash" id="Sewing_Box_Made_of_Walnut_and_Ash"></a>
+<img src="images/i-015.jpg" width="600" height="541" alt="Sewing Box Made of
+Walnut and Ash" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sewing Box Made of
+Walnut and Ash</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Square up the stock for the other parts. Work
+the bottom piece to a 16-in. square. The rails are
+not to be squared on the ends but are to be mitered
+each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts
+by metal brackets.<span class='pagenum'>[16]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 367px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Box" id="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Box"></a>
+<img src="images/i-016.jpg" width="367" height="600" alt=""/>
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Sewing Box</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom
+may be inserted. Insert the corners and use
+glue and nails to hold them in place. Place the
+lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts
+<span class='pagenum'>[17]</span>
+as is necessary to bring the inner edge of these rails
+in position. Fasten to the posts. Miter and place
+the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened
+to the bottom from the outer side and to the
+lower of the two top rails from the inner side. Brass-headed
+tacks such as upholsterers use are required.</p>
+
+<p>In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a
+coat of boiled linseed oil. Allow this to stand a
+half hour or so and then wipe the surface clean.
+After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating
+of shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac
+when hard with No. 00 sandpaper and then apply
+several coats of wax, polishing in the usual manner.</p>
+
+<p>Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with
+which the box may be moved about.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_FERN_STAND" id="A_FERN_STAND"></a>A FERN STAND</h2>
+
+
+<p>When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying
+sketch use quarter-sawed oak if possible,
+as this wood is the most suitable for finishing
+in the different mission stains. Considerable labor
+can be saved in its construction by ordering the
+stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared
+and sanded. Order the following pieces:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>The legs are made first. Be sure they are square
+and of equal length. The mortises can be laid out
+and cut or they can be left until the tenons on the
+side rails are all made, then marked and cut from
+<span class='pagenum'>[18]</span>
+each tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly
+alike for the four sides, as the table is square. In
+addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves should
+be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into
+as shown in the cross section in the detail drawing.
+Holes should be cut in the slats as shown.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Fern_Stand" id="Detail_of_the_Fern_Stand"></a>
+<img src="images/i-018.jpg" width="600" height="533" alt="Detail of the Fern Stand" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Fern Stand</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The top board should have the corners cut out
+to fit around the posts. It is held in place by means
+of screws through cleats which are fastened to the
+inner sides of the top rails.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails
+that are mortised into the posts as shown. The top
+and bottom boards should be of one piece if possible,
+otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued
+together.</p>
+
+<p>Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces
+<span class='pagenum'>[19]</span>
+fit together square and tight. The posts and rails
+should be glued and assembled, then the top and
+bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square
+when the clamps are put on.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 334px;">
+<a name="Finished_Stand_in_Quartered_Oak" id="Finished_Stand_in_Quartered_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-019.jpg" width="334" height="600" alt="Finished Stand
+in Quartered Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Finished Stand
+in Quartered Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing
+the clamps. Fasten the top and bottom boards in
+place and then go over the stand with fine sandpaper
+and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.<span class='pagenum'>[20]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_WARDROBE" id="A_WARDROBE"></a>A WARDROBE</h2>
+
+
+<p>The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying
+sketch and detail drawing will be found
+a great convenience in a bedroom where closet space
+is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides
+ample room for hanging suits, dresses and
+other wearing apparel, as well as space for boots
+and shoes. It can be made of any of the several
+furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed
+oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect.
+The stock should be ordered from the mill ready
+cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way
+much labor will be saved. The following pieces
+will be needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.</li>
+<li>1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[21]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;">
+<a name="The_Wardrobe_Complete" id="The_Wardrobe_Complete"></a>
+<img src="images/i-021.jpg" width="419" height="600" alt="The Wardrobe Complete" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Wardrobe Complete</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'>[22]</span></p>
+
+<p>First be sure the posts are perfectly square and
+of equal length. The upper ends can be chamfered
+or rounded if desired. The two front posts are
+alike, as are the back ones. The mortises should be
+laid out in each pair of posts and then cut with a
+sharp chisel, or they can be left until the tenons
+are all made, and then marked and cut from each
+tenon. Grooves should be cut on one side of all
+the posts to take the end panels.</p>
+
+<p>The front and lower back rails are plain except
+for the tenons at each end, but the end rails and the
+center uprights should have grooves cut for the
+panels the same as the posts. The top back rail
+serves as a top back board and should have the corners
+rounded as shown in the detail drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The frame can now be assembled. Glue should
+be used on all the joints as it makes them much
+stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together perfectly
+square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and
+the shelves.</p>
+
+<p>The top and bottom boards should have the corners
+cut to clear the posts. The closet is divided
+into two compartments by a partition. This can be
+made of plain boards or panels similar to those in
+the ends, as desired. Place the shelves in position
+as shown. They are held in place by means of
+cleats and screws. The one shelf has a partition in
+its center with a door on one side and two small
+drawers on the other. Drawers should be fitted to
+three of the other compartments. They are made
+in the usual manner except that the front boards
+should be cut out at the top for a handhold as
+shown.</p>
+
+<p>The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint
+<span class='pagenum'>[23]</span>
+at the ends. They have a centerpiece and panels
+to match the ends of the closet. Suitable hinges
+and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased
+at any hardware store.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 535px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Wardrobe" id="Detail_of_the_Wardrobe"></a>
+<img src="images/i-023.jpg" width="535" height="600" alt="Detail of the Wardrobe" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Wardrobe</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[24]</span></p>
+
+<p>The backing is put on in the usual manner. It
+should be finished on the front side.</p>
+
+<p>When complete, the closet should be carefully
+gone over with fine sandpaper and all glue and
+rough spots removed. Apply stain of the desired
+color. This may be any of the many mission stains
+supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_FINISH" id="A_FINISH"></a>A FINISH</h2>
+
+
+<p>An appropriate finish is obtained as follows:
+First thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the various
+parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish water
+stain. Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly
+with No. 00 sandpaper to lay the grain. Again apply
+the Flemish stain, but this time have it weakened
+by the addition of an equal amount of water.
+When dry, sand again as on the first coat. Upon
+the second coat of stain apply a thin coat of shellac.
+This is to protect the high lights from the stain in
+the filler which is to follow. Sand lightly, then apply
+a paste filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make
+a dark field for the brown Flemish. Clean off the
+surplus and polish in the usual manner.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight,
+apply a coat of orange shellac. Successively apply
+several coats of some good rubbing varnish. Polish
+the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the
+last with pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw
+linseed or crude oil.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[25]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="AN_OAK_TABLE" id="AN_OAK_TABLE"></a>AN OAK TABLE</h2>
+
+
+<p>The accompanying illustration shows another
+style of a mission table. The stock for this table if
+ordered as follows and sanded will require only the
+work of making the joints and putting them
+together:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>This table may be made with mortise and tenon
+joints or with dowels as desired. If dowels are used,
+the upper and lower rails should be made 2 in.
+shorter than shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their
+surfaces square to each other and their ends sawed
+square off. This will simplify the assembling a great
+deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2
+in., and chamfer a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops.</p>
+
+<p>Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking
+the working face and edge to work from when
+laying out the tenons later. Square up the two
+lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the
+same length as the upper rails. The two ends of the
+table having the slats should be glued up first. Lay
+out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for these
+two ends and be sure to work from the marked face
+and edges, using a knife line. Cut the tenons, and,
+by placing them against the posts in the exact position
+they are to occupy, mark the places for the
+mortises. These joints should be numbered so that
+each mortise may be cut to fit its own tenon.
+<span class='pagenum'>[26]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Construction" id="Detail_of_Construction"></a>
+<img src="images/i-026a.jpg" width="600" height="338" alt="Detail of Construction" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Construction</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[27]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 546px;">
+<a name="Finished_Table" id="Finished_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-026b.jpg" width="546" height="600" alt="Finished Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Finished Table</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Square up the slats, 3 by 15-1/8 in., and cut mortises
+in the upper and lower rails 1/4 in. deep to let them
+in. The number of these slats, their size and spacing
+may be arranged to suit one's own idea. Put
+the posts, upper and lower rails, and slats together
+without glue first to determine if the parts fit properly,
+and then glue and clamp them together. Hot
+glue will hold best, if the room and lumber are
+warm; if not, it is best to use ordinary liquid glue.
+While the glue on these two ends of the table is setting,
+the other upper rails, top, and stretcher may
+be finished.</p>
+
+<p>The top will have to be made of two or three
+pieces joined together with dowels and glue. If possible,
+use only two boards and be sure the grain
+in both pieces runs the same way when they are put
+together.</p>
+
+<p>After the ends which were glued have set at least
+24 hours, the clamps may be taken off and the other
+two upper rails tenoned and mortised in place. The
+stretcher may be held with two 3/8-in. dowels in each
+end, or with two round-head screws put through the
+lower rails. When gluing up the whole table, be
+sure the sides are square to each other. The top
+may now be squared up 24 by 24 in. and the corners
+cut out for the top of the posts. The top may be fastened
+as shown at A and B in the drawing, or by
+cleats screwed to the inside of the upper rails and
+top.</p>
+
+<p>Before staining, be sure that all surplus glue is
+scraped off and the surfaces sanded clean. A weathered
+or fumed oak stain is suitable for this table. A
+good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a
+little drop black ground in oil with turpentine and
+a little linseed oil. Put this stain on with a brush
+<span class='pagenum'>[28]</span>
+and allow to stand until it begins to flatten or dull,
+then rub off across the grain with a rag or piece of
+cotton waste. When thoroughly dry, apply one coat
+of very thin shellac. After this has dried, finish with
+two coats of wax. The shellac prevents the turpentine
+in the wax from rubbing out the stain. To get
+a good wax finish the work should dry until it will
+not show finger marks, before rubbing.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="BOOK_TROUGH" id="BOOK_TROUGH"></a>BOOK TROUGH</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Book_Trough" id="Detail_of_Book_Trough"></a>
+<img src="images/i-028.jpg" width="600" height="369" alt="Detail of Book Trough" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Book Trough</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A very cheap but attractive book trough is shown
+in the accompanying photograph. This piece of
+mission furniture will be found useful in the home
+or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight
+knowledge of tools. The material should be either
+oak or chestnut, which can be secured from the planing
+<span class='pagenum'>[29]</span>
+mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the
+tenons and mortises. The stock needed will be as
+follows:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 ends, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 31 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 35 in., S-1-S.</li>
+<li>2 trough pieces, 7/8 in. by 4 in. by 35 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>8 keys, 5/8 in. by 5/8 in. by 3 in.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 489px;">
+<a name="Book_Trough_Complete" id="Book_Trough_Complete"></a>
+<img src="images/i-029.jpg" width="489" height="600" alt="Book Trough Complete" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Book Trough Complete</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The two end pieces should be made first with the
+top corners rounded off and the lower end, which is
+of simple design, can be cut out with a bracket saw
+<span class='pagenum'>[30]</span>
+and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises
+should then be laid out according to the sketch and
+cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes and finishing with
+a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and
+free from slivers.</p>
+
+<p>The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key
+tenon at each end to fit the end pieces. The
+space between the two tenons at each end can be
+cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp.
+The key holes should be mortised as shown in the
+sketch. The trough pieces are made in a similar
+manner, care being taken to have all tenons and
+mortises perfectly square and a good fit, so the
+trough when assembled will have a neat and
+workmanlike appearance. The trough can be
+finished in any one of the many mission finishes
+which are supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="AN_OAK_SERVING_TABLE" id="AN_OAK_SERVING_TABLE"></a>AN OAK SERVING TABLE</h2>
+
+
+<p>The serving table is another useful piece of furniture
+that can be made in mission style. This table
+should be made in quarter-sawed oak and stained
+very light. The stock order is as follows:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 584px;">
+<a name="Serving_Table_Complete" id="Serving_Table_Complete"></a>
+<img src="images/i-031.jpg" width="584" height="600" alt="Serving Table Complete" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Serving Table Complete</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary
+for squaring to length and the two back posts
+should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as they are the
+longest and project above the back panel. All of the
+<span class='pagenum'>[31]</span>
+posts are cut tapering for a space of 4 in. from the
+bottom ends. Mortises in the posts and tenons on the
+rails are laid out and cut as shown by the dimensions
+in the drawing. These parts are then well glued and
+put together. The top, which should be of well seasoned
+wood, is cut to fit around the back posts so the
+back edge and the back side of the posts are flush.
+The back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners
+of the back posts. This is done so the back surface of
+the panel will be flush the same as the edge of the top.
+The slat is fastened with round-headed brass screws
+<span class='pagenum'>[32]</span>
+on the front of the two back posts about half way
+between the top and the ends of the posts.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Serving_Table" id="Detail_of_Serving_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-032.jpg" width="600" height="256" alt="Detail of Serving Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Serving Table</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two
+methods. One way is to use a small button made of
+wood and so mortised as to set in the rails and then
+fastened to the top with screws. About six of these
+buttons will be sufficient to hold the top in place. The
+other method is to bore a hole slanting on the inside
+of the rails, directing the bit toward the top, which
+will make a seat&mdash;if not cut too deep&mdash;for a screw that
+can be turned direct into the top.</p>
+
+<p>The glue must be removed from about the joints
+and the surfaces smoothed over with fine sandpaper
+before applying the stain. The directions for staining
+will be found on the can in which it is sold.
+The grain of the wood will show up well if the surface
+is given a dull waxed finish after staining.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[33]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="AN_UMBRELLA_STAND" id="AN_UMBRELLA_STAND"></a>AN UMBRELLA STAND</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 318px;">
+<a name="Umbrella_Stand" id="Umbrella_Stand"></a>
+<img src="images/i-033.jpg" width="318" height="600" alt="Umbrella Stand" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Umbrella Stand</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 240px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Umbrella_Stand" id="Detail_of_Umbrella_Stand"></a>
+<img src="images/i-034.jpg" width="240" height="600" alt="Detail of Umbrella Stand" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Umbrella Stand</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The umbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration
+will be found quite appropriate for the hall
+or reception room that is furnished in mission style.
+It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but
+quarter-sawed oak gives the best results. The stock
+necessary to make this stand can be secured from the
+mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, and is
+given in the following list:</p>
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in.</li></ul>
+
+<p>First square up the posts and bevel the tops as
+shown in the detail sketch. Place them side by side,
+on a flat surface with the ends
+square and lay out the mortises
+with a try-square on all four
+pieces at the same time. This
+will insure your getting them
+all straight and of the same
+height. Now lay out the tenons
+on the rails in the same manner
+and cut them to fit the mortises
+in the posts. Mortises
+should also be cut in the rails
+for the ends of the side slats as
+shown. Try all the joints and
+see that they fit tight and
+square. Glue two sides of the
+stand together and let them dry
+for at least 24 hours, then glue the remaining parts,
+being careful to get everything together perfectly
+square.<span class='pagenum'>[34]</span></p>
+
+<p>The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It
+should have a hole cut in
+it for the drip pan. The pan
+should be about 6 or 7 in. in
+diameter. One suitable for
+the purpose can be purchased
+in any hardware
+store. The bottom board
+can be fastened to the rails
+with nails driven from the
+under side, or cleats can be
+nailed to the rails for it to
+rest upon.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<p>When the stand is complete,
+scrape all glue from
+about the joints and go over
+the whole with fine sandpaper,
+removing all rough
+spots. Apply the finish you
+like best, or the one that will
+match your other furniture.</p>
+
+<p>Should the builder want
+an entire hand-made stand,
+the drip pan may be beaten
+into shape from sheet brass
+or copper. This kind of
+work is known as repouss&eacute;. After beating the pan
+into shape, it can be finished in antique, old copper
+or given a polished surface, as desired.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[35]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_CHAFING-DISH_BUFFET" id="A_CHAFING-DISH_BUFFET"></a>A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET</h2>
+
+
+<p>The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient
+and attractive for the dining room. For the
+best effect it should be made of quartered oak,
+stained brown or weathered and trimmed with brass
+hardware.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 429px;">
+<a name="Buffet_in_Quartered_Oak" id="Buffet_in_Quartered_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-035.jpg" width="429" height="600" alt="Buffet in Quartered Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Buffet in Quartered Oak</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[36]</span></p>
+
+<p>To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure
+the following pieces of stock, surfaced on four
+sides and cut to length:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Begin the work on the rails for the sides of
+the stand. Have them all squared up to exactly the
+same length and to the correct width and thickness.
+Mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them
+with a saw and chisel.</p>
+
+<p>When this is finished, try the legs to see that they
+are all the same length and that their surfaces are
+square with each other. Next mark the mortises in
+the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the
+mortises, first bore to depth with a bit 1/8 in, smaller
+than the width of the mortise and cut to the line
+with a chisel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="Method_of_Fastening_with_Screws" id="Method_of_Fastening_with_Screws"></a>
+<img src="images/i-036.jpg" width="400" height="138" alt="Method of Fastening with Screws" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Method of Fastening with Screws</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in
+two lower rails for the tenons on the ends of
+the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller mortises
+<span class='pagenum'>[37]</span>
+in them for the keys, should be cut first.
+Square up the two side panels and cut grooves 3/8
+in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in the rails and
+part of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and
+3/8 in. thick, and cut mortises for them in the two
+upper rails.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Chafing-Dish_Buffet" id="Detail_of_the_Chafing-Dish_Buffet"></a>
+<img src="images/i-037.jpg" width="600" height="542" alt=""/>
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The two sides of the buffet are now ready to
+be glued up and clamped. While the glue on these
+is setting, make the door. The rails are mortised
+<span class='pagenum'>[38]</span>
+into the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive
+the panel. It is best to get the stock a little
+full for the door so that it may be made up a little
+larger than necessary and planed down to fit.</p>
+
+<p>There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten
+the top and back. The top and back are held with
+screws as shown in sketch.</p>
+
+<p>Taper the keys only slightly, otherwise they will
+keep working loose.</p>
+
+<p>Stain with two coats of weathered oak, give one
+coat of thin shellac to fix the stain and two coats
+of wax for a soft-gloss finish.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_WRITING_DESK" id="A_WRITING_DESK"></a>A WRITING DESK</h2>
+
+
+<p>The desk shown in the illustration was made of
+plain-sawed white oak. The copper lighting fixtures
+were made by the amateur as were the hinges
+and the drawer pulls. The doors are fitted with
+art-glass panels. The following stock list is needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>1 top, 3/4 by 22-1/2 by 41 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 stretcher, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 drawer sides, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 19 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 slides, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>8 guides, 3/4 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 16 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 11 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back, 3/4 by 16 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 8 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 shelves, 3/4 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>8 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 4 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Square the legs to length and lay out and cut the
+<span class='pagenum'>[39]</span>
+mortises thereon. Lay off the tenons on the rails,
+after having squared the rails to length and width,
+and cut them.</p>
+
+<p>Work up the top of the table and then the drawer
+stock and cabinet. Assemble the ends of the frame
+first, using good hot glue and enough clamps to
+hold the parts together properly. After the glue
+has hardened on these, the clamps may be removed
+and the front, back rails and the stretcher
+assembled.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Writing_Desk_Made_of_Plain-Sawed_Oak" id="Writing_Desk_Made_of_Plain-Sawed_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-039.jpg" width="600" height="591" alt="Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>While the glue is hardening on the main frame
+<span class='pagenum'>[40]</span>
+the top cabinet may be built and assembled. This
+cabinet is detachable from the table proper and is
+to be held in place by means of cleats upon the
+back. These cleats are not specified in the bill;
+they may be obtained from scrap stock.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Writing_Desk" id="Detail_of_the_Writing_Desk"></a>
+<img src="images/i-040.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="Detail of the Writing Desk" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Writing Desk</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For a piece of woodwork of this style some of the
+softer browns of the mission stains will be most
+appropriate. After all parts have been thoroughly
+cleaned by scraping and sandpapering, a stain may
+be applied. Allow this to dry, then sand it lightly
+and apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand the shellac
+lightly and apply a filler of a color to match the
+stain, but darker in tone, of course. Clean off the
+surplus in the usual manner and then apply a coat
+of shellac. Sand this lightly and apply several coats
+of some good polishing wax.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[41]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="MUSIC_RACK_AND_BOOKSTAND" id="MUSIC_RACK_AND_BOOKSTAND"></a>MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND</h2>
+
+
+<p>The illustration shows a very handy music and
+bookstand, which also can be used at the bedside as
+a reading stand. The following list of
+material will be required for construction:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>1 standard, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 horizontal, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 12 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 braces, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 9 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 board, 1/2 by 8 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 blocks, 1-1/8 in. square.</li>
+<li>2 gauge clamps.</li>
+<li>1 strip, 1/2 by 1 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>8 round-head brass screws.</li>
+<li>1 brass rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 12 in, long.</li>
+<li>1 brass piece, 1/4 by 3/4 by 10 in.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;">
+<a name="Complete_Stand" id="Complete_Stand"></a>
+<img src="images/i-041.jpg" width="289" height="600" alt="Complete Stand" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Complete Stand</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cut a tenon on the lower end of the
+upright and make a mortise in the
+center of the long crosspiece to receive
+the tenon. The horizontal has tenons
+cut on both ends which fit into mortises
+cut in the sides of both crosspieces.
+The upper corners on the ends
+of both crosspieces are cut sloping on
+a 45-deg. angle. The blocks for the
+feet are attached to the under side and
+at the end on each crosspiece with
+screws and hot
+glue, the screw
+heads being sunk
+so that they will
+not catch on carpets
+or mar the floor.<span class='pagenum'>[42]</span>
+The braces are attached with round-head screws
+after they are cut on each end to fit the standard
+and crosspiece.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 509px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Stand" id="Detail_of_the_Stand"></a>
+<img src="images/i-042.jpg" width="509" height="600" alt="Detail of the Stand" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Stand</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The book rest is cut from the board. The openings
+are made by sawing the pieces out with a coping
+<span class='pagenum'>[43]</span>
+saw, and the edges are dressed up with a sharp
+chisel. The lip strip is then glued to the lower edge
+of the board.</p>
+
+<p>One end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut
+in one of the gauge clamps. The slot must be cut
+at the right angle to give the desired slope to the
+book rest. The gauge clamps are joined with two
+small square strips of oak as shown. The small rod
+brace is flattened at both ends and a hole drilled in
+each to fasten it with screws as shown. The brass
+strip is bent in the middle at right angles and drilled
+to receive screws for fastening it in the corner of
+the upright and horizontal pieces.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_DICTIONARY_AND_MAGAZINE_STAND" id="A_DICTIONARY_AND_MAGAZINE_STAND"></a>A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND</h2>
+
+
+<p>The accompanying picture shows a stand that is
+intended primarily for holding a large-size dictionary.
+The shelves may be utilized for holding books,
+magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best
+if made of some hard wood, such as oak. Of the
+soft woods chestnut has the best grain for finishing,
+being hardly distinguishable from red oak.</p>
+
+<p>The following pieces will be necessary:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint
+edge on each piece and from this square up the
+lower ends and square lines across the inner surfaces
+<span class='pagenum'>[44]</span>
+to indicate the positions of the lower edges of
+the shelves.</p>
+
+<p>Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad
+surfaces of the shelves and square them to size on
+one edge and the two ends.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Dictionary_and_Magazine_Stand" id="Detail_of_the_Dictionary_and_Magazine_Stand"></a>
+<img src="images/i-044.jpg" width="600" height="569" alt="Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[45]</span></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 358px;">
+<a name="Stand_Made_in_Oak" id="Stand_Made_in_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-045.jpg" width="358" height="600" alt="Stand Made in Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Stand Made in Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline,
+but do not cut to these lines until the gains and
+mortises which are to receive the ends of the shelves
+and their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying
+out these outlines at this time is done so as to
+<span class='pagenum'>[46]</span>
+give the exact width the shelves are to have. These
+dimensions can be determined by measuring across
+the sides between the outlines at the points where
+the shelves are to be placed.</p>
+
+<p>The shelves which have no tenons are to be let
+into the sides 1/4 in. They should be shouldered
+1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove will not
+show on the face.</p>
+
+<p>The lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened
+by means of very small brads, the heads of
+which should be covered with putty, colored to
+match the finish.</p>
+
+<p>A suitable finish may be obtained as follows:</p>
+
+<p>First see that all the mill marks are removed,
+using a smooth plane and steel scraper and sandpaper,
+then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water
+stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No.
+00 paper. Apply a second coat of stain, diluting
+it by the addition of an equal volume of water. This
+is to produce a stronger contrast. Sand this lightly
+and put on a very thin coat of shellac to bind the
+filler and to prevent the stain in the filler which
+follows from discoloring the high lights. Sand this
+lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to
+the directions that will be found on the can. This
+filler should be colored in the following proportions:
+Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb.
+After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put
+on a coat of orange shellac. Follow this with several
+coats of some good rubbing varnish. The first
+coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled
+hair, and the last with powdered pumice stone and
+raw linseed or crude oil.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[47]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_LEATHER_BACK_ARM_CHAIR" id="A_LEATHER_BACK_ARM_CHAIR"></a>A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 478px;">
+<a name="Arm_Chair_Complete" id="Arm_Chair_Complete"></a>
+<img src="images/i-047.jpg" width="478" height="600" alt="Arm Chair Complete" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Arm Chair Complete</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[48]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Arm_Chair" id="Detail_of_the_Arm_Chair"></a>
+<img src="images/i-048.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="Detail of the Arm Chair" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Arm Chair</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A mission arm chair of simple design and construction
+is shown in the accompanying illustration.
+This chair is suitable for any room of the house
+and can be made of wood to match other furniture.
+Quarter-sawed oak is the wood most generally used,
+and it is also very easy to obtain. The stock can be
+ordered from the mill, cut to length, squared and
+<span class='pagenum'>[49]</span>
+sanded. Following is a list of the material that will
+be needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 front legs, 2 by 2 by 26-3/4 in.</li>
+<li>2 back legs, 2 by 4 by 43 in.</li>
+<li>2 arm rests, 1 by 4 by 26 in.</li>
+<li>5 rails, 3/4 by 4 by 21-1/2 in.</li>
+<li>5 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 2-1/2 in. .</li>
+<li>2 back pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.</li>
+<li>1 piece leather, 31 in, square.</li>
+<li>1 piece burlap, 28 in, square.</li>
+<li>2 pieces leather, 13 by 18 in.</li>
+<li>2 pieces burlap, 13 by 18 in.</li>
+<li>1 box 8 oz. tacks.</li>
+<li>5-1/2 doz. ornamental nails.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Start with the front legs. Cut a tenon 1-1/4 in.
+square and 3/4 in, long on one end to fit the arm rests.
+The mortises for the side rails are cut 1/2 in. wide and
+7/8 in, deep. The tenons on the rails are cut to fit
+these mortises, care being taken to get them all the
+same length between shoulders. The back legs are
+cut with an offset of 2 in. as shown in the detail drawing
+and also have mortises cut in them for the back
+crosspieces. The upright pieces in the back are fastened
+into the crosspieces by means of tenons and
+mortises, and should be in place when the crosspieces
+are fastened to the legs.</p>
+
+<p>The arms are cut from the 1 by 4 by 26-in. pieces.
+Be careful to get them so they will pair. The outside
+edge can be either curved or straight as desired.
+The front ends of the arms are held in place by mortises
+which fit over the tenons on the ends of the
+front legs, while the back ends are held in place by
+round-headed screws as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The chair is now ready to be glued. Be sure to
+get the parts together perfectly square, and when
+dry scrape off all surplus glue around the joints, for
+stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will
+be the result of failing to remove it. Go over the
+parts carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all
+<span class='pagenum'>[50]</span>
+rough marks. Then apply the stain you wish to use.
+To make the seat, first fit boards in the bottom and
+nail them to the side rails as shown. Fill the space
+with hair or elastic cotton felt to about 3 in. above
+the edge of the rails. Bind this down tightly with a
+piece of burlap and tack the edges to the rails. Cut
+out the corners of the burlap so that it will fit about
+the posts. Put the leather on over this and tack the
+edges to the bottoms of the rails. Then finish with
+the ornamental nails as shown.</p>
+
+<p>To finish the back, first tack a piece of burlap over
+the opening, then place a layer of hair or cotton felt
+on this about 1 in. thick. Stretch the leather over
+this and fasten with ornamental nails. The back side
+is finished in the same manner, except that the hair
+is omitted.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_WALL_SHELF" id="A_WALL_SHELF"></a>A WALL SHELF</h2>
+
+
+<p>Coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and
+take a more satisfactory finish than close-grained
+woods. For this reason chestnut or oak is suggested
+for this shelf. Chestnut has a beautiful grain and is
+soft and easily worked.</p>
+
+<p>There will be needed the following pieces:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>Sides, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>Lower shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>Upper shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>In making out this stock bill the pieces have been
+specified 1/4 in. wider and 1/2 in, longer than the finished
+piece is to be to allow for squaring up. The thicknesses
+are specified mill-planed exact so that all that is
+necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from
+the two broad surfaces.
+<span class='pagenum'>[51]</span></p>
+
+<p>It is quite possible that one may have a particular
+space or a particular set of books to place in the shelf.
+In such a case the length of the horizontals should be
+lengthened or shortened to meet the particular demands
+when ordering the lumber.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="Complete_Wall_Shelf" id="Complete_Wall_Shelf"></a>
+<img src="images/i-051.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="Complete Wall Shelf" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Complete Wall Shelf</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size.
+They are to be all of the same length. Next shape up
+the end pieces. The amount of slope for the front
+edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces
+have been squared up and the mill-marks removed, the
+dadoes or grooves and gains may be laid out and cut.</p>
+
+<p>Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance
+of getting all the mill-marks off before putting on any
+finish. When boards are planed at the mill the planing
+is done by means of two or four knives revolving
+above or below the board&mdash;sometimes both above and
+below at the same time. These knives leave the surfaces
+filled with little ridges and hollows across the
+grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible
+<span class='pagenum'>[52]</span>
+to the eye on the unfinished surface, show up as ugly
+streaks upon the surface after it has had a finish of
+stain and filler applied.</p>
+
+<p>The joints here used are typical and the beginner
+can readily find how they are to be made from any
+good book on wood-working.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Wall_Shelf_Detail" id="Wall_Shelf_Detail"></a>
+<img src="images/i-052.jpg" width="600" height="242" alt="Wall Shelf Detail" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Wall Shelf Detail</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are several ways of fastening the parts. They
+may be fastened by means of round-head blued screws.
+They may be fastened with carriage screws. The one
+in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire
+nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental
+heads to represent old-fashioned hand-wrought nails.</p>
+
+<p>It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain
+and filler before the parts are assembled. A suitable
+finish is obtained as follows: After the parts are
+thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water
+stain, wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had
+time to soak into the wood very much. Allow this to
+dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00 paper, after
+which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste
+filler&mdash;directions will be found on the can. Follow
+this, when hardened, with several coats of floor wax.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[53]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_PEDESTAL" id="A_PEDESTAL"></a>A PEDESTAL</h2>
+
+
+<p>The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of
+furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in
+design and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple
+tools and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of
+quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also
+looks the best when finished. If you order the material from the mill
+ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much hard labor will be saved.
+Following is a list of the material needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S.</li>
+<li>1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S</li>
+<li>8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in.</li>
+<li>2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S.</li>
+<li>2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in.</li>
+<li>1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in.</li>
+<li>4 blocks, 1 in. square.</li></ul>
+
+
+<p>Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail
+them together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then
+set the heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in.
+piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on <span class='pagenum'>[54]</span>
+all sides. Pick out the best board for the top. On the under side and
+1/2. in. in from the edges, nail four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces
+which have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view. Now fasten
+this top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top
+piece into the top board. Be careful to get this top on square with the
+post and exactly in center.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is
+nailed to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks
+should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on.</p>
+
+<p>When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission
+stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px">
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 235px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Pedestal" id="Detail_of_Pedestal"></a>
+<img src="images/i-054.jpg" width="235" height="600" alt="Detail of Pedestal" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Pedestal</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 218px;">
+<a name="Completed_Pedestal" id="Completed_Pedestal"></a>
+<img src="images/i-053.jpg" width="218" height="500" alt="Completed Pedestal" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Completed Pedestal</span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p style="clear: both;">After staining the wood, the
+surface can be given a polished
+or dull finish, as desired. Mission
+furniture requires a dull finish, and this may be
+obtained by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on
+the wood.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[55]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="MAGAZINE_RACK" id="MAGAZINE_RACK"></a>MAGAZINE RACK</h2>
+
+
+<p>The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack
+that will find favor with many amateur wood-workers
+on account of its simplicity in design and its rich,
+massive appearance when properly finished. It is so
+constructed that each piece may be polished, stained
+and finished before it is finally put together. Quarter-sawed
+oak is the best wood to use. Plain-sawed
+oak looks well, but it is more liable to warp than
+quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces
+as wide as the ones here used. Following is a list
+of the material needed:</p>
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Considerable labor can be saved if the material be
+ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared
+and sanded. The corner posts should be made first.
+The most convenient and accurate method of laying
+out the mortises is to square one end of each post
+and lay them on the bench flat, with the squared
+ends even with each other; then clamp them securely
+and lay out the mortises on one side across
+all four pieces at once; then loosen the clamp and
+project the marks to the other side with a try-square.
+Now saw along these marks, making each cut just
+deep enough to bring the mortises diagonally across
+the piece from one corner to the opposite corner as
+shown in the detail sketch. Be careful not to get the
+mortises wider than the shelves are thick. Bevel
+the tops of the posts as shown.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 401px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Magazine_Rack" id="Detail_of_the_Magazine_Rack"></a>
+<img src="images/i-056.jpg" width="401" height="600" alt="Detail of the Magazine Rack" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Magazine Rack</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[56]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;">
+<a name="Magazine_Rack_Complete" id="Magazine_Rack_Complete"></a>
+<img src="images/i-057.jpg" width="380" height="600" alt="Magazine Rack Complete" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Magazine Rack Complete</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>See that the ends of the shelves are square and
+smooth, then set a scratch gauge so that the scriber
+is just 2 in. from the face of the block and mark this
+<span class='pagenum'>[57]</span>
+distance off each way from the corner of the shelves.
+Saw these corners diagonally across as shown, being
+careful not to saw off too much.
+<span class='pagenum'>[58]</span></p>
+
+<p>The parts can now be assembled. Place all the
+parts in position, then pass a rope around each end
+and twist it up tightly with a small stick. If this
+is properly done, you can now pick up the rack and
+handle it in any way you wish. The screws can
+now be put in the corners. You can use flat-head
+screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head
+blue screws and let the heads project. After
+the screws are all in, dress off all unevenness where
+the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark
+each shelf and post so that you can put it together
+again after the parts are finished. Take the rack
+apart and transfer the marks to some part of the
+mortises and shelves that will not be covered with
+the finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish
+you wish to use and when the parts are thoroughly
+dry they can be reassembled and your rack will be
+complete.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_HALL_TREE" id="A_HALL_TREE"></a>A HALL TREE</h2>
+
+
+<p>When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying
+illustration use quarter-sawed oak if possible,
+as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the
+different mission stains. This is a very useful and attractive
+piece of mission furniture and is also very
+easy to construct. The stock can be purchased
+ready cut to length, mill-planed and sandpapered on
+four sides as given in the following list:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in.</li>
+<li>4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in.</li>
+<li>8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in.</li>
+<li>4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in.</li></ul>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[59]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;">
+<a name="Detail_and_Finished_View_of_Hall_Tree" id="Detail_and_Finished_View_of_Hall_Tree"></a>
+<img src="images/i-059.jpg" width="419" height="600" alt="Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>First square up all the posts and bevel them at the
+tops as shown. Then cut the mortises making them
+<span class='pagenum'>[60]</span>
+1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the tenons on the
+braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the distance
+between the shoulders of the braces all of the
+same length. A good way to do this is to place them
+all side by side on a flat surface with the ends square
+and lay them all out at once. The top arms can be
+made in the same manner. The tenons should fit good
+and tight in all the posts.</p>
+
+<p>The parts can now be glued and clamped together.
+When they are dry, scrape all the surplus glue from
+about the joints and go over the whole with fine sandpaper,
+removing all rough spots. Apply the finish
+you like best or the one that will match your other
+furniture. Purchase a few hooks at a hardware store
+and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the hall
+tree is complete.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_TABLE_FOR_THE_DEN" id="A_TABLE_FOR_THE_DEN"></a>A TABLE FOR THE DEN</h2>
+
+
+<p>The table shown in the accompanying sketch is
+especially appropriate for the den; it might be used
+in any other part of the house as well. It may be
+built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed
+white oak. The wood should be thoroughly seasoned
+and devoid of imperfections.</p>
+
+<p>Order the material as follows:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut
+the four legs to length. To get the slopes for the
+ends of the legs and the shoulders of the tenons, lay
+<span class='pagenum'>[61]</span>
+out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel
+along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[62]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Table_Completed" id="Table_Completed"></a>
+<img src="images/i-061.jpg" width="600" height="576" alt="Table Completed" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Table Completed</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The top horizontals have grooves cut on either
+side to allow the posts to "set in." This is to give
+the frame more rigidity. The lower horizontals or
+stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and
+keyed. That the keys may be alike in size, a good
+plan is to make them first, then make the mortises
+in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to
+the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so,
+then to length and joint one edge straight and
+square. Next lay off across the key the lines A and
+B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and
+B 3/8 in. Draw a sloping line through these points
+<span class='pagenum'>[63]</span>
+and work this edge of the key to size and shape.
+Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise,
+in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in.
+for the top opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 352px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_a_Den_Table" id="Detail_of_a_Den_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-062.jpg" width="352" height="600" alt="Detail of a Den Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of a Den Table</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The most satisfactory finish for mission designs,
+and the easiest to apply, is wax. It is an old finish
+that was superseded by varnish. Our ancestors used
+to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine.
+Cut up the beeswax and add to it about
+one-third its volume of turpentine. Heat to the boiling
+point in a double boiler. Or, melt a quantity
+of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine.
+Care must be taken that the turpentine
+shall not catch fire.</p>
+
+<p>Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased
+now-a-days. They require a smooth surface
+and a thin application for a successful result. Too
+much wax upon a rough surface will produce very
+ugly, white, chalk-like spottings as the wax dries.
+These are especially noticeable upon dark finishes.
+Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not necessary
+if the ordinary wax is properly applied.
+1&mdash;Stain the wood, if a very dark finish is desired.
+2&mdash;If the wood is coarse grained, put on one or two
+coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a
+smooth surface may be prepared. Allow the stain
+12 hours in which to dry, also each coat of filler.
+3&mdash;With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax
+as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste
+form. 4&mdash;Allow this to stand five or ten minutes,
+then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish.
+5&mdash;Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat.
+<span class='pagenum'>[64]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Window_Seat" id="Window_Seat"></a>
+<img src="images/i-064.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt=""/>
+<span class="caption">WINDOW SEAT
+Fig. 1&mdash;The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[65]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_BURLAP-COVERED_WINDOW_SEAT" id="A_BURLAP-COVERED_WINDOW_SEAT"></a>A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT</h2>
+
+
+<p>A portable window seat of neat appearance, which
+is designed to take the place of a cedar chest, is
+shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is taken
+to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically
+airtight and mothproof, providing a place in which
+to store extra bedding or furs. The following
+list of materials will be needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box.</li>
+<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long.</span></li>
+<li>32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips.</li>
+<li>54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips.</li>
+<li>16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws.</li>
+<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in.</span></li>
+<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in.</span></li>
+<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in.</span></li>
+<li>20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail
+the sides and the bottom to the ends, being careful
+to get the box perfectly square. The corners can be
+dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it
+takes in making the dovetailed joints will greatly
+add to the durability of the box. The box can be
+made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends
+to posts 2 in. square placed on the inside. Cleats
+should also be placed on the inside, at the bottom,
+as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to the
+bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached
+with long screws run through from the bottom
+of the box.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[66]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Design_of_the_Covering_Strip" id="Design_of_the_Covering_Strip"></a>
+<img src="images/i-066.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="Fig. 2&mdash;Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the
+Burlap" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 2&mdash;Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the
+Burlap</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The green burlap is glued to the outside of the
+box. Be careful not to apply too much glue on the
+burlap, or it will soak through. This should be tried
+out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application
+of glue is ascertained, applied to one side of the
+burlap and stuck on the box. Place the cloth on so
+<span class='pagenum'>[67].
+</span>
+the weave will run in the same direction on all sides.
+The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as
+shown in Fig. 2. Care should be taken to make the
+mitered joints a tight fit. After the miters are all
+cut and the location of the squares, found, they are
+marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed
+over the green before the slats are fastened permanently.
+The slats are put in place over the burlap
+and fastened with small brass screws.</p>
+
+<p>Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing
+the edges to lap over the ends and sides and fasten
+under the side strips. This top can be stuffed with
+excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads
+driven in to hold it in place. The slats can be stained
+any color to suit the maker. They should be removed
+from the box when being stained so as not
+to spot or stain the burlap.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="QUARTER-SAWED_OAK_SETTEE" id="QUARTER-SAWED_OAK_SETTEE"></a>QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE</h2>
+
+
+<p>The mission settee shown in the accompanying
+picture should be made of quarter-sawed white oak.
+The material needed will be as follows:</p>
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[68]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Mission_Settee_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak" id="Mission_Settee_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-068.jpg" width="600" height="383" alt="Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On account of the unusual width of the pieces that
+go into the makeup of this settee, it will be necessary
+to have the wood thoroughly seasoned before
+putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause
+them to crack open.
+<span class='pagenum'>[69]</span></p>
+
+<p>Begin work by making the ends of the settee
+first. Cut the posts to length, chamfering both top
+and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not splinter
+or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and
+cut the mortises as shown on the drawing. With
+the posts finished, lay out the end rails, cutting the
+tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the
+slats are to be fitted.</p>
+
+<p>It should be noted that the drawing calls for the
+"setting in" of the whole of the ends of the slats,
+there being no shoulders. This is much easier and
+gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides
+of the mortises are carefully cut.</p>
+
+<p>Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts
+and then put the ends together. In addition to the
+glue it will be well to through pin each of the tenons
+and mortises. These pins may be put in flush
+and permanent on the ends of the settee. On the
+side rails, however, the pins are to be allowed to
+project so that they can be removed, and no glue is
+used in the joint.</p>
+
+<p>While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare
+the rails of front and back. Scrape and sandpaper
+these and when the clamps can be removed from
+the ends put the whole frame together. The ends
+of all projecting tenons are chamfered.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[70]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Oak_Settee" id="Detail_of_the_Oak_Settee"></a>
+<img src="images/i-070.jpg" width="600" height="281" alt="Detail of the Oak Settee" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Oak Settee</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The illustration shows a loose leather cushion.
+There is quite a variety of materials out of which
+such a cushion can be made. The best, of course,
+is leather. In the highest class of furniture where
+loose cushions are used, the seat base is formed by
+solidly mortising a frame together on which is
+woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is fastened
+to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the
+<span class='pagenum'>[71]</span>
+cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable
+seat. The stock bill for this settee calls for
+such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if
+desired.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>This piece of furniture will look well if finished
+in weathered oak. See that all glue is removed from
+the surface, and that the wood is clean and smooth,
+and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper
+this lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain
+has thoroughly dried, and put on a coat of lackluster
+or an equivalent.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_SCREEN" id="A_SCREEN"></a>A SCREEN</h2>
+
+
+<p>In selecting or making up mission furniture for
+the home, a screen is necessary sometimes to add
+to the appearance of a room. The screen shown
+in the accompanying illustration consists of a few
+parts which are easily put together. The stock
+can be bought of any planing mill planed, sanded
+and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which
+should be of dark color, can be purchased at a
+dry goods store. The following list of material
+will be needed.</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in.</li>
+<li>6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in.</li>
+<li>6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in.</li>
+<li>3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in.</li>
+<li>6 yd. of cloth.</li>
+<li>4 double-acting hinges.</li>
+<li>2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep
+in the center of one surface on each of the 3/4-in.
+rails. Cut out the ends with a compass saw. The
+five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges
+<span class='pagenum'>[72]</span>
+of these panels are inserted in the grooves of the
+3/4-in. rails, using plenty of good glue.</p>
+
+<p>When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours
+the screen frame
+can be put together.
+Holes for
+the screws
+should be bored
+through the posts
+where the 3/4-in.
+rails are joined
+and a screw
+turned into the
+end grain of each
+rail.</p>
+
+<p>Scrape off all
+the surplus glue
+and sandpaper all
+the parts well.
+When this is done
+the finish can be
+applied. Any one
+of the mission
+stains can be used
+and finished with wax and polished.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_One_Section" id="Detail_of_One_Section"></a>
+<img src="images/i-072.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="Detail of One Section" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of One Section</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each
+end and one 1/2-in. rail put through each hem.
+Place the top rail in position and screw it fast.
+Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in.
+rail with screws at the bottom. Each section of
+the screen is finished in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end
+of the posts in the same manner as hanging a door.
+<span class='pagenum'>[73]</span></p>
+
+<p>The sections can be made up in various ways to
+suit the builder. Instead of using cloth, heavy paste-board,
+or board made up to take the place of plaster
+on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming
+a ground that will take paint and bronze decorations.
+A piece of this material can be easily cut to
+fit the opening in each section.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 441px;">
+<a name="Screen_of_Three_Sections" id="Screen_of_Three_Sections"></a>
+<img src="images/i-073.jpg" width="441" height="600" alt="Screen of Three Sections
+" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Screen of Three Sections
+</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[74]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_MISSION_BOOKRACK" id="A_MISSION_BOOKRACK"></a>A MISSION BOOKRACK</h2>
+
+
+<p>The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed
+strictly along mission lines. Enough stock
+may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over
+1 in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand,
+secure the following, cut to exact lengths:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished
+rack and number both parts of each joint.
+There will be twelve lap joints, and great care must
+be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly
+half the depth of each piece.</p>
+
+<p>First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark
+the width of each notch, lay the piece which is to
+fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size.
+Knife lines must be used for the width and light
+gauge lines for the depth of each notch.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Bookrack" id="Detail_of_the_Bookrack"></a>
+<img src="images/i-074.jpg" width="500" height="187" alt="Detail of the Bookrack" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Bookrack</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers
+and ends.</p>
+
+<p>In each end there are four slats which should be
+<span class='pagenum'>[75]</span>
+mortised into the rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in
+place and clamp them with handscrews.</p>
+
+<p>A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post
+will prevent the marring of the surface upon which
+the rack is to rest.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="The_Complete_Bookrack" id="The_Complete_Bookrack"></a>
+<img src="images/i-075.jpg" width="500" height="231" alt="The Complete Bookrack" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Complete Bookrack</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look
+well. A waxed finish should be used. Before applying
+the wax, it is well to use a very thin coat of
+shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a
+few hours and allow an interval of at least an hour
+between applying the coats of wax.</p>
+
+<p>Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied
+by cutting off part of two diagonally opposite racks.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_ROUND_EXTENSION_DINING_TABLE" id="A_ROUND_EXTENSION_DINING_TABLE"></a>A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE</h2>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[76]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-076.jpg" width="377" height="600" alt="Detail of the Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Table</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This extension table should be made of some hard
+wood, preferably white oak. It will be a difficult
+matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid
+pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however,
+<span class='pagenum'>[77]</span>
+to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If
+the veneering is properly done these will serve the
+purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the
+white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular
+facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the
+circle of the size wanted and then veneering the
+outer surface of this. Order the following stock:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius.</li>
+<li>1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S;</li>
+<li>3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.</li>
+<li>2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.</li>
+<li>4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple.</li>
+<li>2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple.</li>
+<li>2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Table_for_the_Dining-Room_Set" id="Table_for_the_Dining-Room_Set"></a>
+<img src="images/i-077.jpg" width="600" height="455" alt="Table for the Dining-Room Set" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Table for the Dining-Room Set</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[78]</span></p>
+
+<p>There are various ways of arranging the slides
+to work one with the other. Several patented devices
+are on the market that permit a ready adjustment
+with but little effort and are used extensively
+by commercial manufacturers. The amateur will do
+well to secure a set before he undertakes to work
+these slides to shape.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay
+out and work the mortises. The ends of the facings
+are to be tenoned and housed into the posts. Prepare
+the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping
+the lower edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare
+the top. After this, assemble this much of the
+frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.</p>
+
+<p>Next get the under frame and the slides ready and
+attach them as shown. There will be needed plenty
+of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where it
+is fastened to the top, etc.</p>
+
+<p>For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired.
+Upon this, after it has hardened and been sanded
+with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac. Upon
+the shellac apply successively several coats of some
+good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with
+haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice
+and crude or linseed oil.</p>
+
+<p>If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the
+wood first with a water stain. Sand this lightly
+when dry, then apply a second coat of stain diluted
+one-half with water. Again sand and then
+apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly, and
+apply the filler and the varnish as described above.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[79]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="AN_ARM_DINING_CHAIR" id="AN_ARM_DINING_CHAIR"></a>AN ARM DINING CHAIR</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 430px;">
+<a name="Armchair_of_the_Dining-Room_Set" id="Armchair_of_the_Dining-Room_Set"></a>
+<img src="images/i-079.jpg" width="430" height="600" alt="Armchair of the Dining-Room Set" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Armchair of the Dining-Room Set</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed
+oak. Quarter-sawed oak might be used, or
+black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies
+the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible.
+If some amateur craftsman should prefer to
+<span class='pagenum'>[80]</span>
+do his own surfacing, thereby saving somewhat on
+the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of
+each piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to
+thickness. It is hardly profitable to get stock entirely
+in the rough if the work is to be done by hand.
+The following is the stock bill:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>The design shown is for a chair in which the
+width of front and back is the same. Also the back
+leg parallels the front below the seat. In commercial
+practice the backs are usually made somewhat
+narrower than the fronts and the back leg is slanted
+somewhat below the seat as well as above. As this
+construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all
+tenons it complicates the problem when the work
+is not done by machinery. The ambitious amateur
+may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring
+common chairs. For mission effects the chair
+looks well with front and back the same width.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare the front posts first and then the rear.
+The rear posts are to be cut from the single piece of
+stock specified. By proper planning both pieces may
+be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the
+mortises.</p>
+
+<p>Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the
+tenons. The back rails are to have mortises in their
+edges to receive the ends of the slats. Instead of
+<span class='pagenum'>[81]</span>
+tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to
+receive the whole end&mdash;in other words, house the
+ends.</p>
+
+<p>Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and
+then the front of the chair. After the glue has set
+sufficiently, assemble the remainder of the parts.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Armchair" id="Detail_of_the_Armchair"></a>
+<img src="images/i-081.jpg" width="600" height="468" alt="Detail of the Armchair" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Armchair</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and
+then apply the finish.</p>
+
+<p>For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed
+upon slats or the bottom may be upholstered in the
+usual manner, using webbing on heavy canvas, and
+then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather;
+the whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the
+leather with ornamental nails.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[82]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_HALL_BENCH" id="A_HALL_BENCH"></a>A HALL BENCH</h2>
+
+
+<p>All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in.
+oak, excepting the slats, which may be of a cheaper
+wood. The following list of lumber will be required
+to build it:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood.</li>
+<li>2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood.</li>
+<li>4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Hall_Bench" id="Detail_of_the_Hall_Bench"></a>
+<img src="images/i-082.jpg" width="600" height="385" alt="Detail of the Hall Bench" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Hall Bench</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of
+7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in. material diagonally 1 in. from
+each corner, thus making the legs. The edges are
+planed square and the ends should be rounded a
+<span class='pagenum'>[83]</span>
+little so that there will be no splinters projecting.
+The legs are mortised 1 in. deep for the side rails.
+The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being
+taken to get the right angle and a good fit. These
+can now be fastened together, using hot glue on
+the entire surface of the joint.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Bench_Made_of_Plain_Oak" id="Bench_Made_of_Plain_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-083.jpg" width="600" height="578" alt="Bench Made of Plain Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bench Made of Plain Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>While these are drying the ends can be made as
+shown in the plan. The 3 by 4-in. holes are cut at
+equal distances apart. Be sure that each end is perfectly
+square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips
+at each end. The ends are then glued and nailed
+<span class='pagenum'>[84]</span>
+to the sides, using finishing nails, which are set and
+the holes filled with colored putty.</p>
+
+<p>The cleats are now fastened, extra care being
+taken when fastening them over the joints where
+the legs receive the side rails, as this will help to
+strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats
+and are placed at equal distances apart.</p>
+
+<p>The bench is now finished, but before applying
+the stain, see that all parts are free from glue and
+are well sandpapered.</p>
+
+<p>The leather cushion should be the loose kind and
+of a shade to harmonize with the finish.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_SEWING_TABLE" id="A_SEWING_TABLE"></a>A SEWING TABLE</h2>
+
+
+<p>This convenient and useful table will be much
+appreciated by any woman. It has two drawers for
+sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread the
+work upon.</p>
+
+<p>The following list of material will be needed for
+its construction. The sizes given are exact, so if
+the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready planed
+and squared, a slight allowance must be made for
+this.</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with
+<span class='pagenum'>[85]</span>
+each other. The ends must be square with all surfaces,
+but need not be planed smooth as neither will
+be seen in the finished table.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 434px;">
+<a name="Sewing_Table_in_Plain_Oak" id="Sewing_Table_in_Plain_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-085.jpg" width="434" height="600" alt="Sewing Table in Plain Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sewing Table in Plain Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in
+each side and back are placed with the 2-in. surface
+out, while the three in the front have the 2-in. surface
+<span class='pagenum'>[86]</span>
+up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the
+tenons, 1 in, by 3/8 in., with a knife and gauge lines
+on each end of the rails for the sides and back.
+Mark the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the
+sketch, on each end of front rails. Cut all the tenons
+with a backsaw and smooth them with a chisel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-086.jpg" width="600" height="384" alt="Detail of the Sewing Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Sewing Table</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking
+measurements for each mortise from the tenon
+which is to go into it. Fit together all rails and legs
+without glue to detect any errors.</p>
+
+<p>See that the panels for sides and back are squared
+up true and the surfaces smooth. Mark the grooves
+for the panels in the side and back rails and legs.
+Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a
+depth of 1/4 in.</p>
+
+<p>Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides
+<span class='pagenum'>[87]</span>
+first. While the glue is setting, square up and
+smooth the top and two leaves perfectly.</p>
+
+<p>Now glue up the whole table, having set in the
+front and back rails and panel. The drawer slides,
+two on each side, should next be put in. A nail
+through them and into each leg will hold them, as
+there is only the weight of the drawers resting on
+them. Fasten the top with screws through the rails
+from the under side. The leaves are attached with
+two 2-in. butt hinges which must be set in flush
+with the under surface to prevent a crack showing
+between the table top and leaf when the latter is
+raised. The small bracket hinged to the panel supports
+the open leaf.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="Construction_of_the_Drawer" id="Construction_of_the_Drawer"></a>
+<img src="images/i-087.jpg" width="500" height="348" alt="Construction of the Drawer" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Construction of the Drawer</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The drawers are now made. Allow the side to
+lap over the front 1/2 in. as shown in sketch and
+fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let into
+the sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed
+to them, because this would cause the drawer to
+stick, when the bottom expands.
+<span class='pagenum'>[88]</span></p>
+
+<p>Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the
+drawer pulls.</p>
+
+<p>Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax
+if a dull gloss is wanted, or with one coat of shellac
+and two coats of varnish for a highly polished surface.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_SIDE_CHAIR" id="A_SIDE_CHAIR"></a>A SIDE CHAIR</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 361px;">
+<a name="Side_Chair_of_Dining-Room_Set" id="Side_Chair_of_Dining-Room_Set"></a>
+<img src="images/i-089.jpg" width="361" height="600" alt="Side Chair of Dining-Room Set" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Side Chair of Dining-Room Set</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A companion piece to the chair with arms and the
+sideboard is the side chair illustrated herewith. It
+should be made of the same kind of wood and finished
+to correspond with the armchair. Order the
+following stock list:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 piece for back posts, 1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 lower front and back rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+
+<p>Square up the front posts to length. From the
+single piece specified cut out the back posts, giving
+them the amount of slant indicated in the drawing.
+Set these four posts upright in the positions they
+are to occupy relative to one another in the finished
+piece, and mark off, as with penciled circles, the
+approximate locations of mortises. After this, lay
+them on the bench side by side, even the lower ends
+and locate accurately the ends of the mortises.
+Gauge their sides.</p>
+
+<p>Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder
+lines and the cheeks of the tenons and cut them.
+Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back rails.
+<span class='pagenum'>[89]</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[90]</span></p>
+
+<p>While the drawing shows a chair in which the
+front and back are of equal width, the amateur may
+make the back narrower if he so desires. A
+measurement of a common chair will give the proportions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Side_Chair" id="Detail_of_the_Side_Chair"></a>
+<img src="images/i-090.jpg" width="600" height="594" alt="Detail of the Side Chair" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Side Chair</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Place the front and the back in the clamps and
+after the glue has had time to harden, assemble the
+remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper
+<span class='pagenum'>[91]</span>
+all the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue.
+Wood finish will not "take hold" where any glue
+has been allowed to remain.</p>
+
+<p>The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested
+for the armchair. This should not be done,
+however, until the finish has been applied.</p>
+
+<p>A simple finish is obtained by the application of
+a coat of paste filler of a soft brown color, if oak has
+been used. Apply and clean this off in the manner
+directed by the manufacturers and after it has had
+24 hours in which to harden, sand it lightly with
+No. 00 paper. Over this apply a thin coat of
+shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper
+lightly with fine paper. Upon the shellac apply several
+coats of some good rubbing wax. Follow the
+directions that are to be found upon the cans, being
+careful not to apply too much at a time. If too
+much wax is applied, it stays in the small pores
+of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like
+appearance.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="ANOTHER_PIANO_BENCH" id="ANOTHER_PIANO_BENCH"></a>ANOTHER PIANO BENCH</h2>
+
+
+<p>The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut
+or oak and should be finished in the natural
+color for walnut, but stained some rich brown for
+oak.</p>
+
+<p>The following pieces will be needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>The keys can be secured from the waste that will
+be cut off from the other parts.
+<span class='pagenum'>[92]</span></p>
+
+<p>Square up the top in the usual manner to the size
+indicated in the working drawing. In a similar
+manner square up the stretcher to width and length.</p>
+
+<p>There will be no need to square the ends of the
+rails as they are to be cut off on a slant. Square up
+the sides or edges and then lay off and cut the slanting
+ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off
+and work the shape on their under edges.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench2" id="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench2"></a>
+<img src="images/i-092.jpg" width="600" height="319" alt=""/>
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Piano Bench</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The ends are best laid off by means of a template
+or pattern for which a piece of rather heavy paper
+will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a center
+line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant
+has been laid out. Lay out the form at the bottom,
+then fold the paper along the center line and trace
+the other half. With this pattern lay off the outline
+upon the wood. For convenience in laying out
+the grooves for the rails and the mortise for the
+tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work a face edge
+upon each leg and allow this to remain until these
+joints have been made and the parts fitted. The
+<span class='pagenum'>[93]</span>
+shape at the bottom of the leg is merely suggestive
+and may be modified as desired.</p>
+
+<p>Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher.
+Then lay out and work the grooves upon the rails.
+Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to allow the
+leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench
+the bracing that is needed to make it stand firmly.
+Work the grooves in the legs and the mortises for
+the rails.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Piano_Bench_in_Quarter-Sawed_Oak" id="Piano_Bench_in_Quarter-Sawed_Oak"></a>
+<img src="images/i-093.jpg" width="600" height="391" alt="Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It should be noted that the mortise for the key in
+the stretcher must be laid out before the shoulders
+and cheeks of the tenon on which the mortise is
+made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place
+to put the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise
+for the key.</p>
+
+<p>Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble
+them. No glue is needed. The rails are held in
+place by dowel pins, the heads of which are allowed
+<span class='pagenum'>[94]</span>
+to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental
+effect. The top is attached by means of
+small angle irons or by means of blocks and screws
+fastened to the corners made by top and rails.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="ANOTHER_SCREEN" id="ANOTHER_SCREEN"></a>ANOTHER SCREEN</h2>
+
+
+<p>The screen shown in the accompanying illustration
+is made of burlap and plain-sawed oak. The
+stock list follows:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>The two base pieces may be shaped first. The
+drawing shows the form and the dimensions. Make
+use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in the
+base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges
+are removed to make the slanting sides.</p>
+
+<p>Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting
+the tenons at the bottoms, and shaping the tops
+as shown.</p>
+
+<p>Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown,
+working the tenons upon the ends of each and the
+mortises in the lower two for the tenons of the middle
+vertical.</p>
+
+<p>For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece
+and square one end of each to that. Lay off the
+curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out. Use
+this block as a pattern or template to lay off the
+others.</p>
+
+<p>Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts,
+<span class='pagenum'>[95]</span>
+then assemble them, using clamps and good hot
+glue. Take care to see that there is no warp in the
+frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the
+frame has hardened, remove the clamps and attach
+the base blocks and the braces. The braces are secured
+by means of round-head screws.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 593px;">
+<a name="Plain-Oak_Frame" id="Plain-Oak_Frame"></a>
+<img src="images/i-095.jpg" width="593" height="600" alt="Plain-Oak Frame with
+Burlap Panels" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Plain-Oak Frame with
+Burlap Panels</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish
+as desired.</p>
+
+<p>For the paneling, frames will be needed about
+which to fasten the burlap. These may be made of
+<span class='pagenum'>[96]</span>
+1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces will be
+necessary:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Make these frames enough smaller than the openings
+they are to occupy to allow for burlap and
+tacks. These frames are held in place by putting
+fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap
+is attached. Holes are bored in the rails to correspond
+to them. The lower edges of the frames
+are held in place by nails inserted up through the
+rails upon which the frames rest.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Frame" id="Detail_of_the_Frame"></a>
+<img src="images/i-096.jpg" width="600" height="490" alt="Detail of the Frame" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Frame</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[97]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_FOLDING_CARD_TABLE" id="A_FOLDING_CARD_TABLE"></a>A FOLDING CARD TABLE</h2>
+
+
+<p>The accompanying sketch shows the details of a
+card table that can be folded up and carried about
+or stored away when not in use. We would advise
+making two tables at the same time, as the material
+for both can be purchased nearly as cheaply as for
+one. The material necessary for making one table
+is given in the following list:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar.</li>
+<li>2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar.</li>
+<li>4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak.</li>
+<li>4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak.</li>
+<li>4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak.</li>
+<li>4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with</li>
+<li>batten.</li>
+<li>1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square.</li>
+<li>4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long.</li>
+<li>30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled</li>
+<li>3/16 in.</li>
+<li>4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep.</li>
+<li>2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long.</li>
+<li>4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips.</li>
+<li>1 piece felt, 1 yd. square.</li>
+<li>1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt).</li>
+<li>1 pt. wood stain.</li>
+<li>3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long.</li>
+<li>Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.</li></ul>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[98]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Card_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Card_Table"></a>
+<img src="images/i-098.jpg" width="419" height="600" alt="Detail of the Card Table" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Card Table</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Begin by squaring up the four legs making them
+all 24-3/4 in. long and 1 in. square. Also square up
+the crosspieces marked B in the detail drawing.
+These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in.
+holes about 1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each
+for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins. Measure back 1-1/2 in.
+from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole, 7/8 in.
+deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each
+leg, 3/4 in. long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in.
+hole. Round the corners of the piece B at the top
+as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together
+with glue and brads, being careful to get them
+<span class='pagenum'>[99]</span>
+square with each other. After the glue is set bore
+a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7 in. from the
+edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the
+corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then
+stain and polish.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Card_Table_Ready_for_Use" id="Card_Table_Ready_for_Use"></a>
+<img src="images/i-099.jpg" width="600" height="501" alt="Card Table Ready for Use" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Card Table Ready for Use</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch
+on a level surface with the 7/8-in. edge up, place the
+cardboard on top and tack it fast to the pieces, using
+6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it
+fast also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with
+brads. The four pieces of electric wire moulding
+should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or the
+same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood
+about 4 in. long in the groove at each end of the
+moulding, plane down and fasten with brads. Next
+take the thin batten or covering strip that comes
+<span class='pagenum'>[100]</span>
+with the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center,
+6 in, from one end, and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in.
+from the other end. With a gouge cut a slot 1/4 in.
+wide from one hole to the other in the center as
+shown in the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot
+smooth and then fasten the batten to the moulding
+with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a
+point 3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill
+1/4-in. holes through the moulding at the small ends
+of the slots. These are for the ends of the brace
+rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they
+are open. Tack the two pieces of moulding marked
+F and J on the remaining edges of the cardboard
+with the slots facing in and the large holes of the
+slots at opposite sides, then place the other two
+pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside of these, or just the
+length of the cross ends of the legs, with the slots
+facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast
+with 4-oz. tacks. Use brads at the ends and be
+careful that they do not enter the 1/4-in. holes. This
+part of the table can now be stained or painted the
+same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also
+be stained at this time.</p>
+
+<p>The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise.
+One end should be 1 in. long and should be square
+with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center to center
+and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at
+a slight angle out from square. Just at this bend
+raise a burr with a sharp chisel to keep the washer
+on. Now place five of the copper washers on the
+1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will
+not slip off. They should be loose so that they
+will roll and slip on the brace. Slip a washer on
+the other end and put the end of the rod through
+<span class='pagenum'>[101]</span>
+the 3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side,
+place another washer on the rod, saw off and rivet
+down the end.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="The_Legs_Fold_on_the_Under" id="The_Legs_Fold_on_the_Under"></a>
+<img src="images/i-101.jpg" width="600" height="623" alt="The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one
+of the braces and the washers in the large hole in
+the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in. hole in the
+crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then
+drive an oak dowel or rod into each end. This is
+the hinge or pivot that the legs swing on. When
+the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should
+spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock
+the leg in place. Rubber tips should be put on the
+bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden buttons
+should be made and fastened to the cardboard as
+<span class='pagenum'>[102]</span>
+shown at K for locking the legs when they are
+closed.</p>
+
+<p>The felt can now be put on the top of the table.
+Stretch it tightly and then tack the edges securely
+to the sides of the table. Now fasten on the 3/8-in.
+side pieces and the brass corners with the small
+brass screws as shown on the drawing, and the table
+is complete.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="MAGAZINE_STAND" id="MAGAZINE_STAND"></a>MAGAZINE STAND</h2>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 298px;">
+<a name="Stand_Complete" id="Stand_Complete"></a>
+<img src="images/i-103.jpg" width="298" height="600" alt="Stand Complete" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Stand Complete</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting
+out the material used in this piece of furniture,
+it can be purchased from a mill already planed,
+sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any
+kind of wood can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak
+with a mission stain and waxed, gives the best appearance.
+The following pieces will be needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws.</li></ul>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[103]</span></p>
+
+
+<p>Take the four shelves and line them up with their
+backs and ends even and clamp them together firmly.
+Mark the places for the slats across the edges of the
+shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends.
+Use a square to get the lines at right angles to the
+surface. Another line is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first,
+or the width of the slat. The ends of the shelves
+are marked in the same manner, beginning from the
+back edges and making the first line 1/2 in. from
+them, and then another line 1-1/8 in. from the first, or
+the width of the slat. Make a line across the ends,
+<span class='pagenum'>[104]</span>
+1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and
+another line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This
+will leave 2-1/2 in. and 4-1/2 in. of space respectively
+from the front edges of the 10-in. and 12-in. shelves.
+Shift the shelves so they will be even on the front
+edges and mark them the same as the back. Make
+a 1/4-in. depth mark on all edges between the lines
+and cut this material out. This can be done while
+the shelves are clamped together.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 571px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Stand" id="Detail_of_Stand"></a>
+<img src="images/i-104.jpg" width="571" height="600" alt="Detail of Stand" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Stand</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'>[105]</span></p>
+
+<p>Place the shelves on end in their order and start
+by screwing on the back slats on both ends first,
+then screw on the two front slats. Turn the stand
+down and put on the two back slats. Attach the
+two front slats on the top shelf first. Then bore the
+places for the remaining holes and turn in the
+screws. This will bend the slats into place. The
+two remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the
+shelves without letting them in, making the spaces
+equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the bottom shelf
+and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart,
+sandpapered and stained.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_TABOURET" id="A_TABOURET"></a>A TABOURET</h2>
+
+
+<p>The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman
+design as shown in the accompanying illustration
+can be purchased from the mill ready cut to
+length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is
+the best wood to use and it is also the easiest to
+secure. Order the following pieces:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long.</li>
+<li>1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square.</li>
+<li>4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in.</li>
+<li>4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at
+an angle of 30 deg. and hollow out the lower part
+of the legs as shown in the detail sketch. Clamp
+them together with the ends square and lay out the
+mortises all at once. Cut the tenons on the rails to
+fit these mortises. Lay them out in the same manner
+as the posts so as to get them all the same distance
+between shoulders. The upper rails should be
+cut out underneath as shown.
+<span class='pagenum'>[106]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 315px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Tabouret" id="Detail_of_Tabouret"></a>
+<img src="images/i-106.jpg" width="315" height="600" alt="Detail of Tabouret" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Tabouret</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[107]</span></p>
+
+<p>The rails and posts can now be glued together.
+Be careful to get them joined perfectly square.
+When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown.
+This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws
+from the inside. Remove all surplus glue from
+about the joints, as the finish will not take where
+there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper
+and remove all rough spots, then apply the
+finish you like best.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 468px;">
+<a name="Finished_Tabouret" id="Finished_Tabouret"></a>
+<img src="images/i-107.jpg" width="468" height="600" alt="Finished Tabouret" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Finished Tabouret</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[108]</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'>[109]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_PORCH_SWING" id="A_PORCH_SWING"></a>A PORCH SWING</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Complete_Porch_Swing" id="Complete_Porch_Swing"></a>
+<img src="images/i-108.jpg" width="600" height="327" alt="Complete Porch Swing" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Complete Porch Swing</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The porch swing shown in the illustration can be
+made of southern pine at a very moderate cost. It
+should be suspended by rustless black chains and
+eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions
+are desired they can be made up quite cheaply
+of elastic felt covered with denim cloth.</p>
+
+<p>These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought
+at the mill:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>8 ft. flooring for bottom.</li>
+<li>2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>Plane and square the ends of all the rails and
+posts. Lay out the lap joints for the back rails and
+posts. Use a knife line for this and saw exactly to
+the line to avoid trimming with the chisel. When
+sawing be careful to cut exactly halfway through
+the thickness of each piece. In the same way make
+the lap joints between the front rail and posts.
+Have the two end rails exactly the same length and
+proceed to fasten the front and back posts to them,
+using 4-in. lag screws and washers. Bore through
+the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails
+for the lag screws.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>[110]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Porch_Swing" id="Detail_of_the_Porch_Swing"></a>
+<img src="images/i-110.jpg" width="600" height="235" alt="Detail of the Porch Swing" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Porch Swing</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails,
+or a 3/8-in. groove may be planed in these rails, the
+entire distance between joints, to receive the slats.
+A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm
+rests lap over the back posts and are held to them
+<span class='pagenum'>[111]</span>
+with 2-in. round-head screws. They may be fastened
+to the top of the front posts with round-head
+screws or dowel pins.</p>
+
+<p>Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat,
+or 7/8-in. board may be used if desired. Fasten the
+cleats, which support the seat, to the front and back
+lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws.</p>
+
+<p>To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine,
+stain it brown or black and finish with two coats of
+waterproof varnish.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_FOOT_WARMER" id="A_FOOT_WARMER"></a>A FOOT WARMER</h2>
+
+
+<p>This foot warmer is so constructed that two
+bricks may be heated and placed inside of the stool.</p>
+
+<p>Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following
+pieces will be needed:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.</li>
+<li>4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in.</li>
+<li>1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge.</li>
+<li>2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<p>The work may be started by shaping the four
+legs and cutting the mortises for the rails. Tenons
+are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the mortises
+made in the posts. They are then glued together,
+care being taken to get the stool perfectly
+square.</p>
+
+<p>The top frame can now be made and covered with
+the sheet of brass. The frame has mitered corners
+and the inside of the frame must be even with
+the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to
+<span class='pagenum'>[112]</span>
+the stool with the two hinges on the back and the
+elbow catch on the front side to keep it closed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Foot_Warmer" id="Detail_of_the_Foot_Warmer"></a>
+<img src="images/i-112.jpg" width="376" height="600" alt="Detail of the Foot Warmer" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Foot Warmer</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The design on the brass can be made by tacking
+it on a board, laying out the design and piercing
+the background with some sharp-pointed tool.
+This leaves the design raised with a smooth
+surface.</p>
+
+<p>The brass can now be removed from the board,
+<span class='pagenum'>[113]</span>
+placed on the frame and fastened with the ornamental
+tacks.</p>
+
+<p>Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside
+of the rails with asbestos; then place the bricks
+on the inside of the stool. Both should fit up tight
+to the brass when the bottom is in place.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Oak_Stool" id="Oak_Stool"></a>
+<img src="images/i-113.jpg" width="600" height="479" alt="Oak Stool with Brass Cover" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Oak Stool with Brass Cover</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The stool is now ready for the finish, which can
+be of some stain to match the other furniture in
+the room where it is to be used.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_PLATE_RACK_FOR_THE_DINING_ROOM" id="A_PLATE_RACK_FOR_THE_DINING_ROOM"></a>A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM</h2>
+
+
+<p>This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood
+and finished to match other pieces of furniture in
+the room, but as it is of mission design, oak is the
+most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain
+so nicely.
+<span class='pagenum'>[114]</span></p>
+
+<p>The material required is as follows:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li></ul>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 514px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_Plate_Rack" id="Detail_of_Plate_Rack"></a>
+<img src="images/i-114.jpg" width="514" height="600" alt="Detail of Plate Rack" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of Plate Rack</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some
+allowance is made for trimming on the edges and
+ends.</p>
+
+<p>Begin work by squaring up the posts to length
+and beveling the top ends, then trim the back and
+<span class='pagenum'>[115]</span>
+side boards. These are nailed together, lapping the
+back board over the side board. The posts are fastened
+with dowels placed at equal distances apart.
+Hot glue is used in the joints.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Dining-Room_Plate_Rack" id="Dining-Room_Plate_Rack"></a>
+<img src="images/i-115.jpg" width="600" height="475" alt="Dining-Room Plate Rack" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Dining-Room Plate Rack</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The four shelves are now put in place. These
+are notched out to fit around the posts and are
+nailed and glued.</p>
+
+<p>While the glue is hardening on these, the plate
+rails can be cut. These have 7/8-in grooves near the
+front edge to receive the lower edge of the plates
+when resting against the two strips placed 5 in.
+above the plate rails and far enough back to prevent
+the plates from falling forward.
+<span class='pagenum'>[116]</span></p>
+
+<p>The rails are fastened to the two sides with
+dowels, three at each end being sufficient. The two
+strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces. The
+top is then put on. This fits around the posts and
+rests on the sides. Hooks on which to hang cups
+are placed under the rails. All parts are thoroughly
+sandpapered before the stain is applied.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_MISSION_SIDEBOARD" id="A_MISSION_SIDEBOARD"></a>A MISSION SIDEBOARD</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Sideboard_for_the_Dining-Room_Set" id="Sideboard_for_the_Dining-Room_Set"></a>
+<img src="images/i-116.jpg" width="600" height="497" alt="Sideboard for
+the Dining-Room Set" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sideboard for
+the Dining-Room Set</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the
+armchair and side chair with similar paneling design.
+Like these chairs the sideboard should be
+<span class='pagenum'>[117]</span>
+made of hard wood and should be similarly finished.
+The drawer pulls, if not made of wood, should be
+of such metal and design as to harmonize with the
+mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines
+are appropriate.</p>
+
+<p>Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made
+of some soft wood, such as yellow poplar. The
+small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for
+holding silverware.</p>
+
+<p>Obtain the following stock:</p>
+
+<ul><li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.</li>
+<li>4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.</li>
+<li>4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.</li>
+<li>3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li>
+<li>2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li>
+<li>3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li>
+<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li>
+<li>2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S.</li>
+<li>2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li>
+<li>Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock.</li></ul>
+
+<p>A detailed description is hardly necessary for
+such a piece of work as this. Anyone capable of
+<span class='pagenum'>[118]</span>
+building it, will know the order of the different operations
+that are required in its construction.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Detail_of_the_Sideboard" id="Detail_of_the_Sideboard"></a>
+<img src="images/i-118a.jpg" width="600" height="521" alt="Detail of the Sideboard" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Sideboard</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It may be said that the two back panels at either
+side of the small drawers may be filled with beveled
+plate glass instead of wood if one so choose.
+<span class='pagenum'>[119]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;">
+<img src="images/i-118b.jpg" width="150" height="158" alt="Figure" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3>
+
+<ul><li>Moved table of contents to the head of the document</li>
+<li>Added a List of Illustrations</li>
+<li>Folio 4: "Millplaned" changed to "Mill-planed"</li>
+<li>Folio 34: Started new paragraph at "The bottom board...."</li>
+<li>Added captions to Illustrations:</li>
+<li>Folio 33: "Umbrella Stand"</li>
+<li>Folio 34: "Detail of Umbrella Stand"</li>
+<li>Folio 54" "Detail of Pedestal"</li></ul>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Mission Furniture
+       How to Make It, Part 3
+
+Author: H. H. Windsor
+
+Release Date: November 30, 2007 [EBook #23666]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by K Nordquist, Ross Wilburn and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MISSION FURNITURE
+HOW TO MAKE IT
+
+PART THREE
+
+
+
+
+POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS
+
+
+
+CHICAGO
+POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY
+
+Copyrighted, 1912
+
+BY H. H. WINDSOR
+
+This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being
+published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books
+are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish
+information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all.
+
+The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this
+Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by
+the editor of Popular Mechanics.
+
+The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of
+each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material
+mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a
+complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for
+planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for
+surface four sides and surface two sides.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+Piano Bench, 5
+Library Table, 7
+Princess Dresser, 10
+Sewing Box, 14
+Fern Stand, 17
+Wardrobe, 20
+Finish, 24
+Oak Table, 25
+Book Trough, 28
+Oak Serving Table, 30
+Umbrella Stand, 33
+Chafing-Dish Buffet, 35
+Writing Desk, 38
+Music Rack and Bookstand, 41
+Dictionary and Magazine Stand, 43
+Leather-Back Armchair, 47
+Wall Shelf, 50
+Pedestal, 53
+Magazine Rack, 55
+Hall Tree, 58
+Table for the Den, 60
+Table, Sewing, 64
+Burlap-Covered Window Seat, 65
+Quarter-Sawed Oak Settee, 67
+Screen, 71, 94
+Mission Bookrack, 74
+Round Extension Dining Table, 75
+Arm Dining Chair, 79
+Hall Bench, 82
+Sewing Table, 84
+Side Chair, 88
+Another Piano Bench, 91
+Another Screen, 95
+Folding Card Table, 97
+Magazine Stand, 102
+Tabouret, 105
+Porch Swing, 109
+Foot Warmer, 111
+Plate Rack for Dining Room, 113
+Mission Sideboard, 116
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+Piano Bench
+Detail of the Piano Bench
+Detail of the Library Table
+The Finished Library Table
+Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
+Detail of the Princess Dresser
+Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash
+Detail of the Sewing Box
+Detail of the Fern Stand
+Finished Stand in Quartered Oak
+The Wardrobe Complete
+Detail of Wardrobe
+Detail of Construction
+Finished Table
+Detail of Book Trough
+Book Trough Complete
+Serving Table Complete
+Detail of Serving Table
+Umbrella Stand
+Detail of Umbrella Stand
+Buffet in Quartered Oak
+Method of Fastening with Screws
+Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet
+Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak
+Detail of the Writing Desk
+Complete Stand
+Detail of the Stand
+Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand
+Stand Made in Oak
+Arm Chair Complete
+Detail of the Arm Chair
+Complete Wall Shelf
+Wall Shelf Detail
+Completed Pedestal
+Detail of the Pedestal
+Detail of the Magazine Rack
+Magazine Rack Complete
+Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree
+Table Completed
+Detail of a Den Table
+Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering
+Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap
+Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
+Detail of the Oak Settee
+Detail of One Section
+Screen of Three Sections
+Detail of the Bookrack
+The Complete Bookrack
+Detail of the Table
+Table for the Dining-Room Set
+Armchair of the Dining-Room Set
+Detail of the Armchair
+Detail of the Hall Bench
+Bench Made of Plain Oak
+Sewing Table in Plain Oak
+Detail of the Sewing Table
+Construction of the Drawer
+Side Chair of Dining-Room Set
+Detail of the Side Chair
+Detail of the Piano Bench
+Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak
+Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels
+Detail of the Frame
+Detail of the Card Table
+Card Table Ready for Use
+The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top
+Stand Complete
+Detail of Stand
+Detail of Tabouret
+Finished Tabouret
+Complete Porch Swing
+Detail of the Porch Swing
+Detail of the Foot Warmer
+Oak Stool with Brass Cover
+Detail of Plate Rack
+Dining-Room Plate Rack
+Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set
+Detail of the Sideboard
+
+
+
+
+A PIANO BENCH
+
+
+[Illustration: Piano Bench in Black Walnut]
+
+The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture was made of black
+walnut and was finished natural. The finish was applied in the following
+manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and sandpapered, then the
+surface was covered with a coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had
+stood several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate the wood, the
+surplus liquid was wiped off with a flannel cloth. After the oil had
+stood for 48 hours, a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to
+harden overnight. The next morning this shellac was sandpapered lightly
+with No. 00 paper and a coat of floor wax was applied according to the
+directions which are found upon every can. Two more coats of wax were
+applied after intervals of half an hour and the finish was completed.
+The effect is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich color of the
+wood and the shellac and wax serve to preserve the color. The following
+stock is needed:
+
+  1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.
+
+With the exception of the legs all the stock is specified mill-planed to
+thickness upon two surfaces. The legs are specified planed on four
+sides. Square the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc.,
+to width and length.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Piano Bench]
+
+Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are
+best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into
+the rails. The reason for this is obvious--it is a difficult matter to
+fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are tenoned.
+When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths adjusts
+itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the mortises
+carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting the
+shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike.
+
+Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench
+together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher
+and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either
+by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons.
+
+
+
+
+A LIBRARY TABLE
+
+
+A library table of neat appearance and correct proportions is shown in
+the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. This table looks best when
+finished in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the other furniture woods
+can be used if desired. If the material is ordered from the mill cut to
+length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can be avoided. Order
+the following pieces:
+
+  4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S.
+  2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S.
+  2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+  4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S.
+  8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
+  4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood.
+  2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.
+
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Library Table]
+
+Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and
+laying out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section BB. Care
+should be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same
+height. This is best done by placing the four legs side by side with the
+ends square, and then laying out the mortises across all four at once
+with a try-square.
+
+[Illustration: The Finished Library Table]
+
+The table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued
+together. Be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the
+joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out for the posts as
+shown. The posts are to be fastened to the board by means of screws. The
+holes can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged. The top rails
+are also fastened to the top board by means of screws.
+
+The end pieces can now be made. Two or more boards will have to be
+glued together for these. The top corners will have to be cut to fit
+about the top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to the top
+board. The shelves also have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in
+the posts. They are held to the end boards by means of screws.
+
+If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, they can be glued and
+screwed together, which will complete the table except for the slats and
+drawers. The slats can be fastened on with nails, then the heads covered
+with fancy nails which can be secured for this purpose. The drawer
+supports can now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards as shown.
+A bottom brace should be fastened under the lower shelves to help steady
+the table. The two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch. No
+handles are needed as the lower edge of the front board can be used for
+pulling them out.
+
+When the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine
+sandpaper and all rough spots removed. Scrape the glue from about the
+joints as finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply the stain
+preferred or the one that matches the other furniture. This can be any
+of the many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
+
+
+
+
+A PRINCESS DRESSER
+
+
+A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing
+appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The
+cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, a great amount
+of labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length,
+squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material
+needed will be as follows:
+
+[Illustration: Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak]
+
+  4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.
+  5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.
+  1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
+  2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.
+  2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+  1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.
+
+The following pieces may be of any soft wood:
+
+  5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.
+  6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.
+  1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.
+  4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.
+
+First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either
+chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid
+out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and
+then marked and cut directly from each tenon. The posts as well as the
+end rails should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. end
+panels.
+
+The top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts. The
+corners of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing.
+
+The end sections of the dresser can be glued together first, care being
+taken to get the joints square and tight. When these are dry the side
+rails and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. The top board
+is held in position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened
+to the inner sides of the rails.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Princess Dresser]
+
+The mirror frame is made by mortising the end pieces with the side
+pieces as shown. It is rabbeted on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in.
+mirror. After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame a thin wood
+covering should be tacked on the back to protect the glass. The frame
+swings between two upright posts which are securely fastened to the
+body of the dresser as shown.
+
+The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner. The drawing shows
+two drawers in the top compartment, but one exactly like the lower can
+be made and used instead by simply leaving out the 1 in. partition.
+Suitable handles for the drawers can be purchased at any hardware store.
+
+The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape
+all surplus glue from about the joints as the stain will not take where
+there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper and apply the stain
+desired, which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the
+trade for this purpose.
+
+
+
+
+A SEWING BOX
+
+
+A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite as convenient as
+unique, is shown in the illustration. The material is walnut and ash.
+The posts are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are finished
+in their natural colors. The following is the stock bill:
+
+   4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut.
+   1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut.
+   4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash.
+   4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut.
+  72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.
+
+In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine the lengths of pieces
+having like widths and thicknesses.
+
+If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter indicated for the
+verticals, it is an easy matter to take a square piece of stock, lay it
+off and work it into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises may
+again be planed until it has 16 and then 32 sides. The rest may be
+removed with sandpaper. Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will
+be available. Saw these posts to length and leave the ends square.
+
+[Illustration: Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash]
+
+Square up the stock for the other parts. Work the bottom piece to a
+16-in. square. The rails are not to be squared on the ends but are to be
+mitered each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts by metal
+brackets.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Sewing Box]
+
+Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom may be inserted.
+Insert the corners and use glue and nails to hold them in place. Place
+the lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts as is necessary
+to bring the inner edge of these rails in position. Fasten to the posts.
+Miter and place the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened
+to the bottom from the outer side and to the lower of the two top rails
+from the inner side. Brass-headed tacks such as upholsterers use are
+required.
+
+In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a coat of boiled
+linseed oil. Allow this to stand a half hour or so and then wipe the
+surface clean. After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating of
+shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac when hard with No. 00
+sandpaper and then apply several coats of wax, polishing in the usual
+manner.
+
+Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with which the box may be
+moved about.
+
+
+
+
+A FERN STAND
+
+
+When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying sketch use
+quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for
+finishing in the different mission stains. Considerable labor can be
+saved in its construction by ordering the stock from the mill ready cut
+to length, squared and sanded. Order the following pieces:
+
+   4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
+   8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S.
+   1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S.
+  16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.
+
+The legs are made first. Be sure they are square and of equal length.
+The mortises can be laid out and cut or they can be left until the
+tenons on the side rails are all made, then marked and cut from each
+tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly alike for the four sides,
+as the table is square. In addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves
+should be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into as shown in
+the cross section in the detail drawing. Holes should be cut in the
+slats as shown.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Fern Stand]
+
+The top board should have the corners cut out to fit around the posts.
+It is held in place by means of screws through cleats which are fastened
+to the inner sides of the top rails.
+
+The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails that are mortised into
+the posts as shown. The top and bottom boards should be of one piece if
+possible, otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together.
+
+Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces fit together square
+and tight. The posts and rails should be glued and assembled, then the
+top and bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the
+clamps are put on.
+
+[Illustration: Finished Stand in Quartered Oak]
+
+Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing the clamps. Fasten the
+top and bottom boards in place and then go over the stand with fine
+sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.
+
+
+
+
+A WARDROBE
+
+
+The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying sketch and
+detail drawing will be found a great convenience in a bedroom where
+closet space is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides
+ample room for hanging suits, dresses and other wearing apparel, as well
+as space for boots and shoes. It can be made of any of the several
+furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to
+give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill
+ready cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way much labor will be
+saved. The following pieces will be needed:
+
+  4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S.
+  4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.
+  2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S.
+  8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood.
+  4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
+  1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
+  1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.
+
+[Illustration: The Wardrobe Complete]
+
+First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. The
+upper ends can be chamfered or rounded if desired. The two front posts
+are alike, as are the back ones. The mortises should be laid out in each
+pair of posts and then cut with a sharp chisel, or they can be left
+until the tenons are all made, and then marked and cut from each tenon.
+Grooves should be cut on one side of all the posts to take the end
+panels.
+
+The front and lower back rails are plain except for the tenons at each
+end, but the end rails and the center uprights should have grooves cut
+for the panels the same as the posts. The top back rail serves as a top
+back board and should have the corners rounded as shown in the detail
+drawing.
+
+The frame can now be assembled. Glue should be used on all the joints as
+it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together
+perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the shelves.
+
+The top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the
+posts. The closet is divided into two compartments by a partition. This
+can be made of plain boards or panels similar to those in the ends, as
+desired. Place the shelves in position as shown. They are held in place
+by means of cleats and screws. The one shelf has a partition in its
+center with a door on one side and two small drawers on the other.
+Drawers should be fitted to three of the other compartments. They are
+made in the usual manner except that the front boards should be cut out
+at the top for a handhold as shown.
+
+The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends. They
+have a centerpiece and panels to match the ends of the closet. Suitable
+hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased at any
+hardware store.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Wardrobe]
+
+The backing is put on in the usual manner. It should be finished on the
+front side.
+
+When complete, the closet should be carefully gone over with fine
+sandpaper and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the
+desired color. This may be any of the many mission stains supplied by
+the trade for this purpose.
+
+
+
+
+A FINISH
+
+
+An appropriate finish is obtained as follows: First thoroughly scrape
+and sandpaper the various parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish
+water stain. Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly with No. 00
+sandpaper to lay the grain. Again apply the Flemish stain, but this time
+have it weakened by the addition of an equal amount of water. When dry,
+sand again as on the first coat. Upon the second coat of stain apply a
+thin coat of shellac. This is to protect the high lights from the stain
+in the filler which is to follow. Sand lightly, then apply a paste
+filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make a dark field for the brown
+Flemish. Clean off the surplus and polish in the usual manner.
+
+Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight, apply a coat of orange
+shellac. Successively apply several coats of some good rubbing varnish.
+Polish the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with
+pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw linseed or crude oil.
+
+
+
+
+AN OAK TABLE
+
+
+The accompanying illustration shows another style of a mission table.
+The stock for this table if ordered as follows and sanded will require
+only the work of making the joints and putting them together:
+
+  4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S.
+  4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+This table may be made with mortise and tenon joints or with dowels as
+desired. If dowels are used, the upper and lower rails should be made 2
+in. shorter than shown in the drawing.
+
+Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their surfaces square to
+each other and their ends sawed square off. This will simplify the
+assembling a great deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2
+in., and chamfer a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops.
+
+Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking the working face
+and edge to work from when laying out the tenons later. Square up the
+two lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the same length
+as the upper rails. The two ends of the table having the slats should be
+glued up first. Lay out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for
+these two ends and be sure to work from the marked face and edges, using
+a knife line. Cut the tenons, and, by placing them against the posts in
+the exact position they are to occupy, mark the places for the mortises.
+These joints should be numbered so that each mortise may be cut to fit
+its own tenon.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Construction Finished Table]
+
+Square up the slats, 3 by 15-1/8 in., and cut mortises in the upper and
+lower rails 1/4 in. deep to let them in. The number of these slats,
+their size and spacing may be arranged to suit one's own idea. Put the
+posts, upper and lower rails, and slats together without glue first to
+determine if the parts fit properly, and then glue and clamp them
+together. Hot glue will hold best, if the room and lumber are warm; if
+not, it is best to use ordinary liquid glue. While the glue on these two
+ends of the table is setting, the other upper rails, top, and stretcher
+may be finished.
+
+The top will have to be made of two or three pieces joined together with
+dowels and glue. If possible, use only two boards and be sure the grain
+in both pieces runs the same way when they are put together.
+
+After the ends which were glued have set at least 24 hours, the clamps
+may be taken off and the other two upper rails tenoned and mortised in
+place. The stretcher may be held with two 3/8-in. dowels in each end, or
+with two round-head screws put through the lower rails. When gluing up
+the whole table, be sure the sides are square to each other. The top may
+now be squared up 24 by 24 in. and the corners cut out for the top of
+the posts. The top may be fastened as shown at A and B in the drawing,
+or by cleats screwed to the inside of the upper rails and top.
+
+Before staining, be sure that all surplus glue is scraped off and the
+surfaces sanded clean. A weathered or fumed oak stain is suitable for
+this table. A good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a little
+drop black ground in oil with turpentine and a little linseed oil. Put
+this stain on with a brush and allow to stand until it begins to
+flatten or dull, then rub off across the grain with a rag or piece of
+cotton waste. When thoroughly dry, apply one coat of very thin shellac.
+After this has dried, finish with two coats of wax. The shellac prevents
+the turpentine in the wax from rubbing out the stain. To get a good wax
+finish the work should dry until it will not show finger marks, before
+rubbing.
+
+
+
+
+BOOK TROUGH
+
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Book Trough]
+
+A very cheap but attractive book trough is shown in the accompanying
+photograph. This piece of mission furniture will be found useful in the
+home or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight knowledge of
+tools. The material should be either oak or chestnut, which can be
+secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the
+tenons and mortises. The stock needed will be as follows:
+
+  2 ends, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 31 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 35 in., S-1-S.
+  2 trough pieces, 7/8 in. by 4 in. by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  8 keys, 5/8 in. by 5/8 in. by 3 in.
+
+[Illustration: Book Trough Complete]
+
+The two end pieces should be made first with the top corners rounded off
+and the lower end, which is of simple design, can be cut out with a
+bracket saw and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises should then be
+laid out according to the sketch and cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes
+and finishing with a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and
+free from slivers.
+
+The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key tenon at each end to
+fit the end pieces. The space between the two tenons at each end can be
+cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp. The key holes
+should be mortised as shown in the sketch. The trough pieces are made in
+a similar manner, care being taken to have all tenons and mortises
+perfectly square and a good fit, so the trough when assembled will have
+a neat and workmanlike appearance. The trough can be finished in any one
+of the many mission finishes which are supplied by the trade for this
+purpose.
+
+
+
+
+AN OAK SERVING TABLE
+
+
+The serving table is another useful piece of furniture that can be made
+in mission style. This table should be made in quarter-sawed oak and
+stained very light. The stock order is as follows:
+
+  2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S.
+  2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+
+[Illustration: Serving Table Complete]
+
+The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary for squaring to
+length and the two back posts should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as
+they are the longest and project above the back panel. All of the posts
+are cut tapering for a space of 4 in. from the bottom ends. Mortises in
+the posts and tenons on the rails are laid out and cut as shown by the
+dimensions in the drawing. These parts are then well glued and put
+together. The top, which should be of well seasoned wood, is cut to fit
+around the back posts so the back edge and the back side of the posts
+are flush. The back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners of
+the back posts. This is done so the back surface of the panel will be
+flush the same as the edge of the top. The slat is fastened with
+round-headed brass screws on the front of the two back posts about half
+way between the top and the ends of the posts.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Serving Table]
+
+The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two methods. One way is
+to use a small button made of wood and so mortised as to set in the
+rails and then fastened to the top with screws. About six of these
+buttons will be sufficient to hold the top in place. The other method is
+to bore a hole slanting on the inside of the rails, directing the bit
+toward the top, which will make a seat--if not cut too deep--for a screw
+that can be turned direct into the top.
+
+The glue must be removed from about the joints and the surfaces smoothed
+over with fine sandpaper before applying the stain. The directions for
+staining will be found on the can in which it is sold. The grain of the
+wood will show up well if the surface is given a dull waxed finish after
+staining.
+
+
+
+
+AN UMBRELLA STAND
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The umbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration will be found
+quite appropriate for the hall or reception room that is furnished in
+mission style. It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but
+quarter-sawed oak gives the best results. The stock necessary to make
+this stand can be secured from the mill ready cut to length, squared and
+sanded, and is given in the following list:
+
+  4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
+  4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+  4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+  4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S.
+  1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in.
+
+First square up the posts and bevel the tops as shown in the detail
+sketch. Place them side by side, on a flat surface with the ends square
+and lay out the mortises with a try-square on all four pieces at the
+same time. This will insure your getting them all straight and of the
+same height. Now lay out the tenons on the rails in the same manner and
+cut them to fit the mortises in the posts. Mortises should also be cut
+in the rails for the ends of the side slats as shown. Try all the joints
+and see that they fit tight and square. Glue two sides of the stand
+together and let them dry for at least 24 hours, then glue the remaining
+parts, being careful to get everything together perfectly square.
+
+The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It should have a hole cut
+in it for the drip pan. The pan should be about 6 or 7 in. in diameter.
+One suitable for the purpose can be purchased in any hardware store. The
+bottom board can be fastened to the rails with nails driven from the
+under side, or cleats can be nailed to the rails for it to rest upon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the stand is complete, scrape all glue from about the joints and go
+over the whole with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the
+finish you like best, or the one that will match your other furniture.
+
+Should the builder want an entire hand-made stand, the drip pan may be
+beaten into shape from sheet brass or copper. This kind of work is known
+as repousse. After beating the pan into shape, it can be finished in
+antique, old copper or given a polished surface, as desired.
+
+
+
+
+A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET
+
+
+The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient and attractive for
+the dining room. For the best effect it should be made of quartered oak,
+stained brown or weathered and trimmed with brass hardware.
+
+[Illustration: Buffet in Quartered Oak]
+
+To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure the following pieces
+of stock, surfaced on four sides and cut to length:
+
+  4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+  4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S.
+  2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S.
+  8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S.
+
+Begin the work on the rails for the sides of the stand. Have them all
+squared up to exactly the same length and to the correct width and
+thickness. Mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them with a saw
+and chisel.
+
+When this is finished, try the legs to see that they are all the same
+length and that their surfaces are square with each other. Next mark the
+mortises in the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the mortises,
+first bore to depth with a bit 1/8 in, smaller than the width of the
+mortise and cut to the line with a chisel.
+
+[Illustration: Method of Fastening with Screws]
+
+Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in two lower rails for the
+tenons on the ends of the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller
+mortises in them for the keys, should be cut first. Square up the two
+side panels and cut grooves 3/8 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in
+the rails and part of the legs.
+
+Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, and cut
+mortises for them in the two upper rails.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet]
+
+The two sides of the buffet are now ready to be glued up and clamped.
+While the glue on these is setting, make the door. The rails are
+mortised into the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive the
+panel. It is best to get the stock a little full for the door so that it
+may be made up a little larger than necessary and planed down to fit.
+
+There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten the top and back.
+The top and back are held with screws as shown in sketch.
+
+Taper the keys only slightly, otherwise they will keep working loose.
+
+Stain with two coats of weathered oak, give one coat of thin shellac to
+fix the stain and two coats of wax for a soft-gloss finish.
+
+
+
+
+A WRITING DESK
+
+
+The desk shown in the illustration was made of plain-sawed white oak.
+The copper lighting fixtures were made by the amateur as were the hinges
+and the drawer pulls. The doors are fitted with art-glass panels. The
+following stock list is needed:
+
+  1 top, 3/4 by 22-1/2 by 41 in., S-2-S.
+  4 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  2 rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  4 drawer sides, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 19 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  4 slides, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+  8 guides, 3/4 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+  2 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 16 in., S-4-S.
+  4 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 11 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back, 3/4 by 16 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 8 by 35 in., S-2-S.
+  2 shelves, 3/4 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  4 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  8 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 4 in., S-2-S.
+
+Square the legs to length and lay out and cut the mortises thereon. Lay
+off the tenons on the rails, after having squared the rails to length
+and width, and cut them.
+
+Work up the top of the table and then the drawer stock and cabinet.
+Assemble the ends of the frame first, using good hot glue and enough
+clamps to hold the parts together properly. After the glue has hardened
+on these, the clamps may be removed and the front, back rails and the
+stretcher assembled.
+
+[Illustration: Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak]
+
+While the glue is hardening on the main frame the top cabinet may be
+built and assembled. This cabinet is detachable from the table proper
+and is to be held in place by means of cleats upon the back. These
+cleats are not specified in the bill; they may be obtained from scrap
+stock.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Writing Desk]
+
+For a piece of woodwork of this style some of the softer browns of the
+mission stains will be most appropriate. After all parts have been
+thoroughly cleaned by scraping and sandpapering, a stain may be applied.
+Allow this to dry, then sand it lightly and apply a thin coat of
+shellac. Sand the shellac lightly and apply a filler of a color to match
+the stain, but darker in tone, of course. Clean off the surplus in the
+usual manner and then apply a coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and
+apply several coats of some good polishing wax.
+
+
+
+
+MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND
+
+
+The illustration shows a very handy music and bookstand, which also can
+be used at the bedside as a reading stand. The following list of
+material will be required for construction:
+
+  1 standard, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 37 in., S-4-S.
+  1 horizontal, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.
+  1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
+  1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 12 in., S-4-S.
+  2 braces, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 9 in., S-4-S.
+  1 board, 1/2 by 8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  4 blocks, 1-1/8 in. square.
+  2 gauge clamps.
+  1 strip, 1/2 by 1 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  8 round-head brass screws.
+  1 brass rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 12 in, long.
+  1 brass piece, 1/4 by 3/4 by 10 in.
+
+[Illustration: Complete Stand]
+
+Cut a tenon on the lower end of the upright and make a mortise in the
+center of the long crosspiece to receive the tenon. The horizontal has
+tenons cut on both ends which fit into mortises cut in the sides of both
+crosspieces. The upper corners on the ends of both crosspieces are cut
+sloping on a 45-deg. angle. The blocks for the feet are attached to the
+under side and at the end on each crosspiece with screws and hot glue,
+the screw heads being sunk so that they will not catch on carpets or mar
+the floor. The braces are attached with round-head screws after they
+are cut on each end to fit the standard and crosspiece.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Stand]
+
+The book rest is cut from the board. The openings are made by sawing the
+pieces out with a coping saw, and the edges are dressed up with a sharp
+chisel. The lip strip is then glued to the lower edge of the board.
+
+One end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut in one of the gauge
+clamps. The slot must be cut at the right angle to give the desired
+slope to the book rest. The gauge clamps are joined with two small
+square strips of oak as shown. The small rod brace is flattened at both
+ends and a hole drilled in each to fasten it with screws as shown. The
+brass strip is bent in the middle at right angles and drilled to receive
+screws for fastening it in the corner of the upright and horizontal
+pieces.
+
+
+
+
+A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND
+
+
+The accompanying picture shows a stand that is intended primarily for
+holding a large-size dictionary. The shelves may be utilized for holding
+books, magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best if made of some
+hard wood, such as oak. Of the soft woods chestnut has the best grain
+for finishing, being hardly distinguishable from red oak.
+
+The following pieces will be necessary:
+
+  2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
+  1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S.
+  1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint edge on each piece and from
+this square up the lower ends and square lines across the inner
+surfaces to indicate the positions of the lower edges of the shelves.
+
+Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad surfaces of the shelves
+and square them to size on one edge and the two ends.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand]
+
+[Illustration: Stand Made in Oak]
+
+Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline, but do not cut to
+these lines until the gains and mortises which are to receive the ends
+of the shelves and their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying out
+these outlines at this time is done so as to give the exact width the
+shelves are to have. These dimensions can be determined by measuring
+across the sides between the outlines at the points where the shelves
+are to be placed.
+
+The shelves which have no tenons are to be let into the sides 1/4 in.
+They should be shouldered 1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove
+will not show on the face.
+
+The lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened by means of very
+small brads, the heads of which should be covered with putty, colored to
+match the finish.
+
+A suitable finish may be obtained as follows:
+
+First see that all the mill marks are removed, using a smooth plane and
+steel scraper and sandpaper, then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water
+stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. 00 paper. Apply a second
+coat of stain, diluting it by the addition of an equal volume of water.
+This is to produce a stronger contrast. Sand this lightly and put on a
+very thin coat of shellac to bind the filler and to prevent the stain in
+the filler which follows from discoloring the high lights. Sand this
+lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to the directions
+that will be found on the can. This filler should be colored in the
+following proportions: Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb.
+After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put on a coat of
+orange shellac. Follow this with several coats of some good rubbing
+varnish. The first coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled hair,
+and the last with powdered pumice stone and raw linseed or crude oil.
+
+
+
+
+A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR
+
+
+[Illustration: Arm Chair Complete]
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Arm Chair]
+
+A mission arm chair of simple design and construction is shown in the
+accompanying illustration. This chair is suitable for any room of the
+house and can be made of wood to match other furniture. Quarter-sawed
+oak is the wood most generally used, and it is also very easy to obtain.
+The stock can be ordered from the mill, cut to length, squared and
+sanded. Following is a list of the material that will be needed:
+
+  2 front legs, 2 by 2 by 26-3/4 in.
+  2 back legs, 2 by 4 by 43 in.
+  2 arm rests, 1 by 4 by 26 in.
+  5 rails, 3/4 by 4 by 21-1/2 in.
+  5 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 2-1/2 in. .
+  2 back pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
+  1 piece leather, 31 in, square.
+  1 piece burlap, 28 in, square.
+  2 pieces leather, 13 by 18 in.
+  2 pieces burlap, 13 by 18 in.
+  1 box 8 oz. tacks.
+  5-1/2 doz. ornamental nails.
+
+Start with the front legs. Cut a tenon 1-1/4 in. square and 3/4 in, long
+on one end to fit the arm rests. The mortises for the side rails are cut
+1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in, deep. The tenons on the rails are cut to fit
+these mortises, care being taken to get them all the same length between
+shoulders. The back legs are cut with an offset of 2 in. as shown in the
+detail drawing and also have mortises cut in them for the back
+crosspieces. The upright pieces in the back are fastened into the
+crosspieces by means of tenons and mortises, and should be in place when
+the crosspieces are fastened to the legs.
+
+The arms are cut from the 1 by 4 by 26-in. pieces. Be careful to get
+them so they will pair. The outside edge can be either curved or
+straight as desired. The front ends of the arms are held in place by
+mortises which fit over the tenons on the ends of the front legs, while
+the back ends are held in place by round-headed screws as shown.
+
+The chair is now ready to be glued. Be sure to get the parts together
+perfectly square, and when dry scrape off all surplus glue around the
+joints, for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the
+result of failing to remove it. Go over the parts carefully with fine
+sandpaper and remove all rough marks. Then apply the stain you wish to
+use. To make the seat, first fit boards in the bottom and nail them to
+the side rails as shown. Fill the space with hair or elastic cotton felt
+to about 3 in. above the edge of the rails. Bind this down tightly with
+a piece of burlap and tack the edges to the rails. Cut out the corners
+of the burlap so that it will fit about the posts. Put the leather on
+over this and tack the edges to the bottoms of the rails. Then finish
+with the ornamental nails as shown.
+
+To finish the back, first tack a piece of burlap over the opening, then
+place a layer of hair or cotton felt on this about 1 in. thick. Stretch
+the leather over this and fasten with ornamental nails. The back side is
+finished in the same manner, except that the hair is omitted.
+
+
+
+
+A WALL SHELF
+
+
+Coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and take a more satisfactory
+finish than close-grained woods. For this reason chestnut or oak is
+suggested for this shelf. Chestnut has a beautiful grain and is soft and
+easily worked.
+
+There will be needed the following pieces:
+
+  Sides, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Lower shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Upper shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+In making out this stock bill the pieces have been specified 1/4 in.
+wider and 1/2 in, longer than the finished piece is to be to allow for
+squaring up. The thicknesses are specified mill-planed exact so that all
+that is necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from the two
+broad surfaces.
+
+It is quite possible that one may have a particular space or a
+particular set of books to place in the shelf. In such a case the length
+of the horizontals should be lengthened or shortened to meet the
+particular demands when ordering the lumber.
+
+[Illustration: Complete Wall Shelf]
+
+Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size. They are to be all of
+the same length. Next shape up the end pieces. The amount of slope for
+the front edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces have
+been squared up and the mill-marks removed, the dadoes or grooves and
+gains may be laid out and cut.
+
+Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance of getting all the
+mill-marks off before putting on any finish. When boards are planed at
+the mill the planing is done by means of two or four knives revolving
+above or below the board--sometimes both above and below at the same
+time. These knives leave the surfaces filled with little ridges and
+hollows across the grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible
+to the eye on the unfinished surface, show up as ugly streaks upon the
+surface after it has had a finish of stain and filler applied.
+
+The joints here used are typical and the beginner can readily find how
+they are to be made from any good book on wood-working.
+
+[Illustration: Wall Shelf Detail]
+
+There are several ways of fastening the parts. They may be fastened by
+means of round-head blued screws. They may be fastened with carriage
+screws. The one in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire
+nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental heads to represent
+old-fashioned hand-wrought nails.
+
+It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain and filler before
+the parts are assembled. A suitable finish is obtained as follows: After
+the parts are thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water stain,
+wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had time to soak into the
+wood very much. Allow this to dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00
+paper, after which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste
+filler--directions will be found on the can. Follow this, when hardened,
+with several coats of floor wax.
+
+
+
+
+A PEDESTAL
+
+
+The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of
+furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in
+design and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple
+tools and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of
+quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also
+looks the best when finished. If you order the material from the mill
+ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much hard labor will be saved.
+Following is a list of the material needed:
+
+  1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S.
+  1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S
+  8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in.
+  2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S.
+  2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in.
+  1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in.
+  4 blocks, 1 in. square.
+
+[Illustration: Completed Pedestal]
+
+Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail
+them together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then
+set the heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in.
+piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on all
+sides. Pick out the best board for the top. On the under side and 1/2.
+in. in from the edges, nail four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces which
+have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view. Now fasten this
+top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top piece
+into the top board. Be careful to get this top on square with the post
+and exactly in center.
+
+The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is
+nailed to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks
+should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on.
+
+When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission
+stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After staining the wood, the surface can be given a polished or dull
+finish, as desired. Mission furniture requires a dull finish, and this
+may be obtained by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on the wood.
+
+
+
+
+MAGAZINE RACK
+
+
+The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack that will find favor with
+many amateur wood-workers on account of its simplicity in design and its
+rich, massive appearance when properly finished. It is so constructed
+that each piece may be polished, stained and finished before it is
+finally put together. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use.
+Plain-sawed oak looks well, but it is more liable to warp than
+quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces as wide as the ones
+here used. Following is a list of the material needed:
+
+   4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
+   5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S.
+  20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long.
+
+Considerable labor can be saved if the material be ordered from the mill
+ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The corner posts should be made
+first. The most convenient and accurate method of laying out the
+mortises is to square one end of each post and lay them on the bench
+flat, with the squared ends even with each other; then clamp them
+securely and lay out the mortises on one side across all four pieces at
+once; then loosen the clamp and project the marks to the other side with
+a try-square. Now saw along these marks, making each cut just deep
+enough to bring the mortises diagonally across the piece from one corner
+to the opposite corner as shown in the detail sketch. Be careful not to
+get the mortises wider than the shelves are thick. Bevel the tops of the
+posts as shown.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Magazine Rack]
+
+[Illustration: Magazine Rack Complete]
+
+See that the ends of the shelves are square and smooth, then set a
+scratch gauge so that the scriber is just 2 in. from the face of the
+block and mark this distance off each way from the corner of the
+shelves. Saw these corners diagonally across as shown, being careful not
+to saw off too much.
+
+The parts can now be assembled. Place all the parts in position, then
+pass a rope around each end and twist it up tightly with a small stick.
+If this is properly done, you can now pick up the rack and handle it in
+any way you wish. The screws can now be put in the corners. You can use
+flat-head screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head blue
+screws and let the heads project. After the screws are all in, dress off
+all unevenness where the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark
+each shelf and post so that you can put it together again after the
+parts are finished. Take the rack apart and transfer the marks to some
+part of the mortises and shelves that will not be covered with the
+finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish you wish to use and when
+the parts are thoroughly dry they can be reassembled and your rack will
+be complete.
+
+
+
+
+A HALL TREE
+
+
+When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying illustration use
+quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for
+finishing in the different mission stains. This is a very useful and
+attractive piece of mission furniture and is also very easy to
+construct. The stock can be purchased ready cut to length, mill-planed
+and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list:
+
+  1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in.
+  4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in.
+  8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in.
+  4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in.
+
+[Illustration: Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree]
+
+First square up all the posts and bevel them at the tops as shown. Then
+cut the mortises making them 1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the
+tenons on the braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the
+distance between the shoulders of the braces all of the same length. A
+good way to do this is to place them all side by side on a flat surface
+with the ends square and lay them all out at once. The top arms can be
+made in the same manner. The tenons should fit good and tight in all the
+posts.
+
+The parts can now be glued and clamped together. When they are dry,
+scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints and go over the whole
+with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the finish you like
+best or the one that will match your other furniture. Purchase a few
+hooks at a hardware store and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the
+hall tree is complete.
+
+
+
+
+A TABLE FOR THE DEN
+
+
+The table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for
+the den; it might be used in any other part of the house as well. It may
+be built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed white oak. The wood
+should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections.
+
+Order the material as follows:
+
+  1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S.
+  4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S.
+  2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
+  2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S.
+  4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.
+
+Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut the four legs to
+length. To get the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of
+the tenons, lay out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel
+along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.
+
+[Illustration: Table Completed]
+
+The top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts
+to "set in." This is to give the frame more rigidity. The lower
+horizontals or stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed.
+That the keys may be alike in size, a good plan is to make them first,
+then make the mortises in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to
+the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so, then to length and
+joint one edge straight and square. Next lay off across the key the
+lines A and B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and B 3/8
+in. Draw a sloping line through these points and work this edge of the
+key to size and shape. Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise,
+in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in. for the top
+opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of a Den Table]
+
+The most satisfactory finish for mission designs, and the easiest to
+apply, is wax. It is an old finish that was superseded by varnish. Our
+ancestors used to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine.
+Cut up the beeswax and add to it about one-third its volume of
+turpentine. Heat to the boiling point in a double boiler. Or, melt a
+quantity of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine. Care
+must be taken that the turpentine shall not catch fire.
+
+Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased now-a-days. They
+require a smooth surface and a thin application for a successful result.
+Too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly, white,
+chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. These are especially noticeable
+upon dark finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not
+necessary if the ordinary wax is properly applied. 1--Stain the wood, if
+a very dark finish is desired. 2--If the wood is coarse grained, put on
+one or two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth
+surface may be prepared. Allow the stain 12 hours in which to dry, also
+each coat of filler. 3--With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax
+as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste form. 4--Allow this
+to stand five or ten minutes, then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to
+polish. 5--Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat.
+
+[Illustration: WINDOW SEAT Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the
+Covering]
+
+
+
+
+A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT
+
+
+A portable window seat of neat appearance, which is designed to take the
+place of a cedar chest, is shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is
+taken to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically airtight
+and mothproof, providing a place in which to store extra bedding or
+furs. The following list of materials will be needed:
+
+  36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box.
+   1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long.
+  32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips.
+  54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips.
+  16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws.
+   1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in.
+   2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in.
+   2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in.
+  20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.
+
+The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail the sides and the bottom
+to the ends, being careful to get the box perfectly square. The corners
+can be dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it takes in making
+the dovetailed joints will greatly add to the durability of the box. The
+box can be made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends to posts 2
+in. square placed on the inside. Cleats should also be placed on the
+inside, at the bottom, as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to
+the bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached with long
+screws run through from the bottom of the box.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the
+Burlap]
+
+The green burlap is glued to the outside of the box. Be careful not to
+apply too much glue on the burlap, or it will soak through. This should
+be tried out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application of glue
+is ascertained, applied to one side of the burlap and stuck on the box.
+Place the cloth on so the weave will run in the same direction on all
+sides. The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as shown in Fig. 2.
+Care should be taken to make the mitered joints a tight fit. After the
+miters are all cut and the location of the squares, found, they are
+marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed over the green before
+the slats are fastened permanently. The slats are put in place over the
+burlap and fastened with small brass screws.
+
+Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing the edges to lap over
+the ends and sides and fasten under the side strips. This top can be
+stuffed with excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads driven in
+to hold it in place. The slats can be stained any color to suit the
+maker. They should be removed from the box when being stained so as not
+to spot or stain the burlap.
+
+
+
+
+QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE
+
+
+The mission settee shown in the accompanying picture should be made of
+quarter-sawed white oak. The material needed will be as follows:
+
+   4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+  12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+   1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S.
+   1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S.
+   1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S.
+   2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S.
+   2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+
+[Illustration: Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak]
+
+On account of the unusual width of the pieces that go into the makeup of
+this settee, it will be necessary to have the wood thoroughly seasoned
+before putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause them to
+crack open.
+
+Begin work by making the ends of the settee first. Cut the posts to
+length, chamfering both top and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not
+splinter or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and cut the mortises
+as shown on the drawing. With the posts finished, lay out the end rails,
+cutting the tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the slats are
+to be fitted.
+
+It should be noted that the drawing calls for the "setting in" of the
+whole of the ends of the slats, there being no shoulders. This is much
+easier and gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides of
+the mortises are carefully cut.
+
+Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts and then put the ends
+together. In addition to the glue it will be well to through pin each of
+the tenons and mortises. These pins may be put in flush and permanent on
+the ends of the settee. On the side rails, however, the pins are to be
+allowed to project so that they can be removed, and no glue is used in
+the joint.
+
+While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare the rails of front and
+back. Scrape and sandpaper these and when the clamps can be removed from
+the ends put the whole frame together. The ends of all projecting tenons
+are chamfered.
+
+The illustration shows a loose leather cushion. There is quite a variety
+of materials out of which such a cushion can be made. The best, of
+course, is leather. In the highest class of furniture where loose
+cushions are used, the seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame
+together on which is woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is
+fastened to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the cushions
+when placed upon it make a very comfortable seat. The stock bill for
+this settee calls for such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if
+desired.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Oak Settee]
+
+This piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak. See
+that all glue is removed from the surface, and that the wood is clean
+and smooth, and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper this
+lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain has thoroughly dried, and put
+on a coat of lackluster or an equivalent.
+
+
+
+
+A SCREEN
+
+
+In selecting or making up mission furniture for the home, a screen is
+necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room. The screen shown
+in the accompanying illustration consists of a few parts which are
+easily put together. The stock can be bought of any planing mill planed,
+sanded and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which should be of dark
+color, can be purchased at a dry goods store. The following list of
+material will be needed.
+
+  6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in.
+  6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in.
+  6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in.
+  3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in.
+  6 yd. of cloth.
+  4 double-acting hinges.
+  2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.
+
+Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep in the center of one
+surface on each of the 3/4-in. rails. Cut out the ends with a compass
+saw. The five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges of these
+panels are inserted in the grooves of the 3/4-in. rails, using plenty of
+good glue.
+
+When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours the screen frame can be
+put together. Holes for the screws should be bored through the posts
+where the 3/4-in. rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain
+of each rail.
+
+Scrape off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well. When
+this is done the finish can be applied. Any one of the mission stains
+can be used and finished with wax and polished.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of One Section]
+
+The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each end and one 1/2-in. rail
+put through each hem. Place the top rail in position and screw it fast.
+Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. rail with screws at
+the bottom. Each section of the screen is finished in the same way.
+
+The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end of the posts in the
+same manner as hanging a door.
+
+The sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder. Instead
+of using cloth, heavy paste-board, or board made up to take the place
+of plaster on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming a
+ground that will take paint and bronze decorations. A piece of this
+material can be easily cut to fit the opening in each section.
+
+[Illustration: Screen of Three Sections]
+
+
+
+
+A MISSION BOOKRACK
+
+
+The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission
+lines. Enough stock may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over 1
+in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, secure the
+following, cut to exact lengths:
+
+  2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S.
+  4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S.
+  8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+
+Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number
+both parts of each joint. There will be twelve lap joints, and great
+care must be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half
+the depth of each piece.
+
+First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark the width of each
+notch, lay the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get
+the exact size. Knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge
+lines for the depth of each notch.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Bookrack]
+
+Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends.
+
+In each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the
+rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews.
+
+A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring
+of the surface upon which the rack is to rest.
+
+[Illustration: The Complete Bookrack]
+
+Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well. A waxed finish
+should be used. Before applying the wax, it is well to use a very thin
+coat of shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a few hours and
+allow an interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax.
+
+Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied by cutting off part of
+two diagonally opposite racks.
+
+
+
+
+A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE
+
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Table]
+
+This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white
+oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated
+in solid pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to
+secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly
+done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to
+the white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular facing is best
+made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then
+veneering the outer surface of this. Order the following stock:
+
+  4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S.
+  4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius.
+  1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S;
+  3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S.
+  4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple.
+  2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
+
+[Illustration: Table for the Dining-Room Set]
+
+There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the
+other. Several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready
+adjustment with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial
+manufacturers. The amateur will do well to secure a set before he
+undertakes to work these slides to shape.
+
+Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay out and work the
+mortises. The ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the
+posts. Prepare the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower
+edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare the top. After this, assemble
+this much of the frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.
+
+Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown.
+There will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing
+where it is fastened to the top, etc.
+
+For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Upon this, after it
+has hardened and been sanded with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac.
+Upon the shellac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing
+varnish. Rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with
+pulverized pumice and crude or linseed oil.
+
+If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the wood first with a
+water stain. Sand this lightly when dry, then apply a second coat of
+stain diluted one-half with water. Again sand and then apply a thin coat
+of shellac. Sand this lightly, and apply the filler and the varnish as
+described above.
+
+
+
+
+AN ARM DINING CHAIR
+
+
+[Illustration: Armchair of the Dining-Room Set]
+
+This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed oak. Quarter-sawed
+oak might be used, or black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies
+the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible. If some
+amateur craftsman should prefer to do his own surfacing, thereby saving
+somewhat on the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of each
+piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to thickness. It is hardly
+profitable to get stock entirely in the rough if the work is to be done
+by hand. The following is the stock bill:
+
+  2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
+  1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S.
+  2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
+  2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
+  2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
+  2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+The design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is
+the same. Also the back leg parallels the front below the seat. In
+commercial practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than
+the fronts and the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well
+as above. As this construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all
+tenons it complicates the problem when the work is not done by
+machinery. The ambitious amateur may readily get the proportion of slant
+by measuring common chairs. For mission effects the chair looks well
+with front and back the same width.
+
+Prepare the front posts first and then the rear. The rear posts are to
+be cut from the single piece of stock specified. By proper planning both
+pieces may be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the mortises.
+
+Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the tenons. The back rails
+are to have mortises in their edges to receive the ends of the slats.
+Instead of tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to receive
+the whole end--in other words, house the ends.
+
+Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and then the front of the
+chair. After the glue has set sufficiently, assemble the remainder of
+the parts.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Armchair]
+
+Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and then apply the finish.
+
+For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed upon slats or the
+bottom may be upholstered in the usual manner, using webbing on heavy
+canvas, and then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather; the
+whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the leather with ornamental
+nails.
+
+
+
+
+A HALL BENCH
+
+
+All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in. oak, excepting the
+slats, which may be of a cheaper wood. The following list of lumber will
+be required to build it:
+
+  4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood.
+  2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood.
+  4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
+  2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
+  2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.
+  2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Hall Bench]
+
+Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in.
+material diagonally 1 in. from each corner, thus making the legs. The
+edges are planed square and the ends should be rounded a little so that
+there will be no splinters projecting. The legs are mortised 1 in. deep
+for the side rails. The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being
+taken to get the right angle and a good fit. These can now be fastened
+together, using hot glue on the entire surface of the joint.
+
+[Illustration: Bench Made of Plain Oak]
+
+While these are drying the ends can be made as shown in the plan. The 3
+by 4-in. holes are cut at equal distances apart. Be sure that each end
+is perfectly square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips at each end.
+The ends are then glued and nailed to the sides, using finishing nails,
+which are set and the holes filled with colored putty.
+
+The cleats are now fastened, extra care being taken when fastening them
+over the joints where the legs receive the side rails, as this will help
+to strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats and are placed
+at equal distances apart.
+
+The bench is now finished, but before applying the stain, see that all
+parts are free from glue and are well sandpapered.
+
+The leather cushion should be the loose kind and of a shade to harmonize
+with the finish.
+
+
+
+
+A SEWING TABLE
+
+
+This convenient and useful table will be much appreciated by any woman.
+It has two drawers for sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread
+the work upon.
+
+The following list of material will be needed for its construction. The
+sizes given are exact, so if the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready
+planed and squared, a slight allowance must be made for this.
+
+  4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
+  9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S.
+  2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S.
+  2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S.
+
+Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with each other. The ends
+must be square with all surfaces, but need not be planed smooth as
+neither will be seen in the finished table.
+
+[Illustration: Sewing Table in Plain Oak]
+
+Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in each side and back are
+placed with the 2-in. surface out, while the three in the front have the
+2-in. surface up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the tenons, 1 in,
+by 3/8 in., with a knife and gauge lines on each end of the rails for
+the sides and back. Mark the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the
+sketch, on each end of front rails. Cut all the tenons with a backsaw
+and smooth them with a chisel.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Sewing Table]
+
+Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking measurements for each
+mortise from the tenon which is to go into it. Fit together all rails
+and legs without glue to detect any errors.
+
+See that the panels for sides and back are squared up true and the
+surfaces smooth. Mark the grooves for the panels in the side and back
+rails and legs. Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a depth
+of 1/4 in.
+
+Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides first. While the glue
+is setting, square up and smooth the top and two leaves perfectly.
+
+Now glue up the whole table, having set in the front and back rails and
+panel. The drawer slides, two on each side, should next be put in. A
+nail through them and into each leg will hold them, as there is only the
+weight of the drawers resting on them. Fasten the top with screws
+through the rails from the under side. The leaves are attached with two
+2-in. butt hinges which must be set in flush with the under surface to
+prevent a crack showing between the table top and leaf when the latter
+is raised. The small bracket hinged to the panel supports the open leaf.
+
+[Illustration: Construction of the Drawer]
+
+The drawers are now made. Allow the side to lap over the front 1/2 in.
+as shown in sketch and fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let
+into the sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed to them,
+because this would cause the drawer to stick, when the bottom expands.
+
+Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the drawer pulls.
+
+Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax if a dull gloss is
+wanted, or with one coat of shellac and two coats of varnish for a
+highly polished surface.
+
+
+
+
+A SIDE CHAIR
+
+
+A companion piece to the chair with arms and the sideboard is the side
+chair illustrated herewith. It should be made of the same kind of wood
+and finished to correspond with the armchair. Order the following stock
+list:
+
+  2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  1 piece for back posts, 1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  2 lower front and back rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+
+Square up the front posts to length. From the single piece specified cut
+out the back posts, giving them the amount of slant indicated in the
+drawing. Set these four posts upright in the positions they are to
+occupy relative to one another in the finished piece, and mark off, as
+with penciled circles, the approximate locations of mortises. After
+this, lay them on the bench side by side, even the lower ends and locate
+accurately the ends of the mortises. Gauge their sides.
+
+Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder lines and the cheeks of
+the tenons and cut them. Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back
+rails.
+
+[Illustration: Side Chair of Dining-Room Set]
+
+While the drawing shows a chair in which the front and back are of equal
+width, the amateur may make the back narrower if he so desires. A
+measurement of a common chair will give the proportions.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Side Chair]
+
+Place the front and the back in the clamps and after the glue has had
+time to harden, assemble the remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and
+sandpaper all the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue. Wood
+finish will not "take hold" where any glue has been allowed to remain.
+
+The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested for the armchair.
+This should not be done, however, until the finish has been applied.
+
+A simple finish is obtained by the application of a coat of paste filler
+of a soft brown color, if oak has been used. Apply and clean this off in
+the manner directed by the manufacturers and after it has had 24 hours
+in which to harden, sand it lightly with No. 00 paper. Over this apply a
+thin coat of shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper lightly with
+fine paper. Upon the shellac apply several coats of some good rubbing
+wax. Follow the directions that are to be found upon the cans, being
+careful not to apply too much at a time. If too much wax is applied, it
+stays in the small pores of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like
+appearance.
+
+
+
+
+ANOTHER PIANO BENCH
+
+
+The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut or oak and should be
+finished in the natural color for walnut, but stained some rich brown
+for oak.
+
+The following pieces will be needed:
+
+  1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S.
+
+The keys can be secured from the waste that will be cut off from the
+other parts.
+
+Square up the top in the usual manner to the size indicated in the
+working drawing. In a similar manner square up the stretcher to width
+and length.
+
+There will be no need to square the ends of the rails as they are to be
+cut off on a slant. Square up the sides or edges and then lay off and
+cut the slanting ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off and work
+the shape on their under edges.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Piano Bench]
+
+The ends are best laid off by means of a template or pattern for which a
+piece of rather heavy paper will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a
+center line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant has been
+laid out. Lay out the form at the bottom, then fold the paper along the
+center line and trace the other half. With this pattern lay off the
+outline upon the wood. For convenience in laying out the grooves for the
+rails and the mortise for the tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work
+a face edge upon each leg and allow this to remain until these joints
+have been made and the parts fitted. The shape at the bottom of the leg
+is merely suggestive and may be modified as desired.
+
+Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher. Then lay out and work the
+grooves upon the rails. Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to
+allow the leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench the bracing
+that is needed to make it stand firmly. Work the grooves in the legs and
+the mortises for the rails.
+
+[Illustration: Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak]
+
+It should be noted that the mortise for the key in the stretcher must be
+laid out before the shoulders and cheeks of the tenon on which the
+mortise is made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place to put
+the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise for the key.
+
+Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble them. No glue is
+needed. The rails are held in place by dowel pins, the heads of which
+are allowed to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental
+effect. The top is attached by means of small angle irons or by means of
+blocks and screws fastened to the corners made by top and rails.
+
+
+
+
+ANOTHER SCREEN
+
+
+The screen shown in the accompanying illustration is made of burlap and
+plain-sawed oak. The stock list follows:
+
+  2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
+  2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+  2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S.
+  1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.
+  1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S.
+  4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+
+The two base pieces may be shaped first. The drawing shows the form and
+the dimensions. Make use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in
+the base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges are removed to
+make the slanting sides.
+
+Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting the tenons at the
+bottoms, and shaping the tops as shown.
+
+Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown, working the tenons
+upon the ends of each and the mortises in the lower two for the tenons
+of the middle vertical.
+
+For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece and square one end of
+each to that. Lay off the curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out.
+Use this block as a pattern or template to lay off the others.
+
+Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts, then assemble them,
+using clamps and good hot glue. Take care to see that there is no warp
+in the frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the frame has
+hardened, remove the clamps and attach the base blocks and the braces.
+The braces are secured by means of round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels]
+
+Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish as desired.
+
+For the paneling, frames will be needed about which to fasten the
+burlap. These may be made of 1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces
+will be necessary:
+
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
+  2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S.
+  4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S.
+  4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
+
+Make these frames enough smaller than the openings they are to occupy to
+allow for burlap and tacks. These frames are held in place by putting
+fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap is attached.
+Holes are bored in the rails to correspond to them. The lower edges of
+the frames are held in place by nails inserted up through the rails upon
+which the frames rest.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Frame]
+
+
+
+
+A FOLDING CARD TABLE
+
+
+The accompanying sketch shows the details of a card table that can be
+folded up and carried about or stored away when not in use. We would
+advise making two tables at the same time, as the material for both can
+be purchased nearly as cheaply as for one. The material necessary for
+making one table is given in the following list:
+
+   1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar.
+   2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar.
+   4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak.
+   4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak.
+   4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak.
+   4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with
+     batten.
+   1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square.
+   4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long.
+  30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled
+     3/16 in.
+   4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep.
+   2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long.
+   4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips.
+   1 piece felt, 1 yd. square.
+   1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt).
+   1 pt. wood stain.
+   3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long.
+  Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.
+
+Begin by squaring up the four legs making them all 24-3/4 in. long and 1
+in. square. Also square up the crosspieces marked B in the detail
+drawing. These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in. holes about
+1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins.
+Measure back 1-1/2 in. from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole,
+7/8 in. deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each leg, 3/4 in.
+long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in. hole. Round the corners of
+the piece B at the top as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together
+with glue and brads, being careful to get them square with each other.
+After the glue is set bore a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7
+in. from the edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the
+corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then stain and polish.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Card Table]
+
+[Illustration: Card Table Ready for Use]
+
+Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch on a level surface with
+the 7/8-in. edge up, place the cardboard on top and tack it fast to the
+pieces, using 6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it fast
+also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with brads. The four pieces of
+electric wire moulding should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or
+the same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood about 4 in.
+long in the groove at each end of the moulding, plane down and fasten
+with brads. Next take the thin batten or covering strip that comes with
+the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center, 6 in, from one end,
+and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in. from the other end. With a gouge cut a
+slot 1/4 in. wide from one hole to the other in the center as shown in
+the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot smooth and then fasten the batten
+to the moulding with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a point
+3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill 1/4-in. holes through the
+moulding at the small ends of the slots. These are for the ends of the
+brace rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they are open. Tack the
+two pieces of moulding marked F and J on the remaining edges of the
+cardboard with the slots facing in and the large holes of the slots at
+opposite sides, then place the other two pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside
+of these, or just the length of the cross ends of the legs, with the
+slots facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast with 4-oz.
+tacks. Use brads at the ends and be careful that they do not enter the
+1/4-in. holes. This part of the table can now be stained or painted the
+same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also be stained at this
+time.
+
+The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise. One end should be 1
+in. long and should be square with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center
+to center and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at a slight
+angle out from square. Just at this bend raise a burr with a sharp
+chisel to keep the washer on. Now place five of the copper washers on
+the 1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will not slip off.
+They should be loose so that they will roll and slip on the brace. Slip
+a washer on the other end and put the end of the rod through the
+3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side, place another washer
+on the rod, saw off and rivet down the end.
+
+[Illustration: The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top]
+
+To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one of the braces and the
+washers in the large hole in the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in.
+hole in the crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then drive an
+oak dowel or rod into each end. This is the hinge or pivot that the legs
+swing on. When the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should
+spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock the leg in place.
+Rubber tips should be put on the bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden
+buttons should be made and fastened to the cardboard as shown at K for
+locking the legs when they are closed.
+
+The felt can now be put on the top of the table. Stretch it tightly and
+then tack the edges securely to the sides of the table. Now fasten on
+the 3/8-in. side pieces and the brass corners with the small brass
+screws as shown on the drawing, and the table is complete.
+
+
+
+
+MAGAZINE STAND
+
+
+If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting out the material
+used in this piece of furniture, it can be purchased from a mill already
+planed, sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any kind of wood
+can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak with a mission stain and waxed,
+gives the best appearance. The following pieces will be needed:
+
+  2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.
+  8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.
+  2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.
+  4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws.
+
+Take the four shelves and line them up with their backs and ends even
+and clamp them together firmly. Mark the places for the slats across the
+edges of the shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends. Use
+a square to get the lines at right angles to the surface. Another line
+is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. The ends of
+the shelves are marked in the same manner, beginning from the back edges
+and making the first line 1/2 in. from them, and then another line 1-1/8
+in. from the first, or the width of the slat. Make a line across the
+ends, 1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and another
+line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This will leave 2-1/2 in. and
+4-1/2 in. of space respectively from the front edges of the 10-in. and
+12-in. shelves. Shift the shelves so they will be even on the front
+edges and mark them the same as the back. Make a 1/4-in. depth mark on
+all edges between the lines and cut this material out. This can be done
+while the shelves are clamped together.
+
+[Illustration: Stand Complete]
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Stand]
+
+Place the shelves on end in their order and start by screwing on the
+back slats on both ends first, then screw on the two front slats. Turn
+the stand down and put on the two back slats. Attach the two front slats
+on the top shelf first. Then bore the places for the remaining holes and
+turn in the screws. This will bend the slats into place. The two
+remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the shelves without letting
+them in, making the spaces equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the
+bottom shelf and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart, sandpapered
+and stained.
+
+
+
+
+A TABOURET
+
+
+The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman design as shown in
+the accompanying illustration can be purchased from the mill ready cut
+to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use
+and it is also the easiest to secure. Order the following pieces:
+
+  4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long.
+  1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square.
+  4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in.
+  4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.
+
+First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at an angle of 30 deg. and
+hollow out the lower part of the legs as shown in the detail sketch.
+Clamp them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at
+once. Cut the tenons on the rails to fit these mortises. Lay them out in
+the same manner as the posts so as to get them all the same distance
+between shoulders. The upper rails should be cut out underneath as
+shown.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Tabouret]
+
+The rails and posts can now be glued together. Be careful to get them
+joined perfectly square. When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown.
+This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws from the inside.
+Remove all surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not
+take where there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper and
+remove all rough spots, then apply the finish you like best.
+
+[Illustration: Finished Tabouret]
+
+[Illustration: Complete Porch Swing]
+
+
+
+
+A PORCH SWING
+
+
+The porch swing shown in the illustration can be made of southern pine
+at a very moderate cost. It should be suspended by rustless black chains
+and eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions are desired
+they can be made up quite cheaply of elastic felt covered with denim
+cloth.
+
+These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought at the mill:
+
+  2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S.
+  1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S.
+  2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S.
+  2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S.
+  2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S.
+  5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S.
+  8 ft. flooring for bottom.
+  2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.
+
+Plane and square the ends of all the rails and posts. Lay out the lap
+joints for the back rails and posts. Use a knife line for this and saw
+exactly to the line to avoid trimming with the chisel. When sawing be
+careful to cut exactly halfway through the thickness of each piece. In
+the same way make the lap joints between the front rail and posts. Have
+the two end rails exactly the same length and proceed to fasten the
+front and back posts to them, using 4-in. lag screws and washers. Bore
+through the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails for the
+lag screws.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Porch Swing]
+
+The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails, or a 3/8-in. groove
+may be planed in these rails, the entire distance between joints, to
+receive the slats. A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm
+rests lap over the back posts and are held to them with 2-in.
+round-head screws. They may be fastened to the top of the front posts
+with round-head screws or dowel pins.
+
+Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat, or 7/8-in. board may be
+used if desired. Fasten the cleats, which support the seat, to the front
+and back lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws.
+
+To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine, stain it brown or
+black and finish with two coats of waterproof varnish.
+
+
+
+
+A FOOT WARMER
+
+
+This foot warmer is so constructed that two bricks may be heated and
+placed inside of the stool.
+
+Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following pieces will be
+needed:
+
+  4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S.
+  4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S.
+  1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+  1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
+  4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in.
+  1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge.
+  2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.
+
+The work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the
+mortises for the rails. Tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit
+in the mortises made in the posts. They are then glued together, care
+being taken to get the stool perfectly square.
+
+The top frame can now be made and covered with the sheet of brass. The
+frame has mitered corners and the inside of the frame must be even with
+the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to the stool with the
+two hinges on the back and the elbow catch on the front side to keep it
+closed.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Foot Warmer]
+
+The design on the brass can be made by tacking it on a board, laying out
+the design and piercing the background with some sharp-pointed tool.
+This leaves the design raised with a smooth surface.
+
+The brass can now be removed from the board, placed on the frame and
+fastened with the ornamental tacks.
+
+Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside of the rails with
+asbestos; then place the bricks on the inside of the stool. Both should
+fit up tight to the brass when the bottom is in place.
+
+[Illustration: Oak Stool with Brass Cover]
+
+The stool is now ready for the finish, which can be of some stain to
+match the other furniture in the room where it is to be used.
+
+
+
+
+A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM
+
+
+This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood and finished to match
+other pieces of furniture in the room, but as it is of mission design,
+oak is the most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain so
+nicely.
+
+The material required is as follows:
+
+  4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
+  1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S.
+  2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S.
+  2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
+  2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
+  4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S.
+  2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of Plate Rack]
+
+This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some allowance is made
+for trimming on the edges and ends.
+
+Begin work by squaring up the posts to length and beveling the top ends,
+then trim the back and side boards. These are nailed together, lapping
+the back board over the side board. The posts are fastened with dowels
+placed at equal distances apart. Hot glue is used in the joints.
+
+[Illustration: Dining-Room Plate Rack]
+
+The four shelves are now put in place. These are notched out to fit
+around the posts and are nailed and glued.
+
+While the glue is hardening on these, the plate rails can be cut. These
+have 7/8-in grooves near the front edge to receive the lower edge of the
+plates when resting against the two strips placed 5 in. above the plate
+rails and far enough back to prevent the plates from falling forward.
+
+The rails are fastened to the two sides with dowels, three at each end
+being sufficient. The two strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces.
+The top is then put on. This fits around the posts and rests on the
+sides. Hooks on which to hang cups are placed under the rails. All parts
+are thoroughly sandpapered before the stain is applied.
+
+
+
+
+A MISSION SIDEBOARD
+
+
+[Illustration: Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set]
+
+The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the armchair and side chair
+with similar paneling design. Like these chairs the sideboard should be
+made of hard wood and should be similarly finished. The drawer pulls, if
+not made of wood, should be of such metal and design as to harmonize
+with the mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines are
+appropriate.
+
+Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made of some soft wood, such as
+yellow poplar. The small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for
+holding silverware.
+
+Obtain the following stock:
+
+   2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S.
+   2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S.
+   1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S.
+   2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
+   1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
+   2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
+   2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
+   2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S.
+   4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S.
+   1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+   1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+   1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+   2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
+   2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
+   1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
+   1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S.
+   2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S.
+   1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
+   4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
+   4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
+   3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
+   2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
+   4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
+  10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
+   2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S.
+  Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock.
+
+A detailed description is hardly necessary for such a piece of work as
+this. Anyone capable of building it, will know the order of the
+different operations that are required in its construction.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Sideboard]
+
+It may be said that the two back panels at either side of the small
+drawers may be filled with beveled plate glass instead of wood if one so
+choose.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+Folio 4: "Millplaned" changed to "Mill-planed"
+Folio 34: Started new paragraph at "The bottom board...."
+Added captions to Illustrations:
+Folio 33: "Umbrella Stand"
+Folio 34: "Detail of Umbrella Stand"
+Folio 54" "Detail of Pedestal"
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor
+
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