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diff --git a/23666-8.txt b/23666-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..689007a --- /dev/null +++ b/23666-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2834 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Mission Furniture + How to Make It, Part 3 + +Author: H. H. Windsor + +Release Date: November 30, 2007 [EBook #23666] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE *** + + + + +Produced by K Nordquist, Ross Wilburn and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + +MISSION FURNITURE +HOW TO MAKE IT + +PART THREE + + + + +POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS + + + +CHICAGO +POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY + +Copyrighted, 1912 + +BY H. H. WINDSOR + +This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being +published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books +are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish +information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all. + +The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this +Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by +the editor of Popular Mechanics. + +The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of +each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material +mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a +complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for +planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for +surface four sides and surface two sides. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +Piano Bench, 5 +Library Table, 7 +Princess Dresser, 10 +Sewing Box, 14 +Fern Stand, 17 +Wardrobe, 20 +Finish, 24 +Oak Table, 25 +Book Trough, 28 +Oak Serving Table, 30 +Umbrella Stand, 33 +Chafing-Dish Buffet, 35 +Writing Desk, 38 +Music Rack and Bookstand, 41 +Dictionary and Magazine Stand, 43 +Leather-Back Armchair, 47 +Wall Shelf, 50 +Pedestal, 53 +Magazine Rack, 55 +Hall Tree, 58 +Table for the Den, 60 +Table, Sewing, 64 +Burlap-Covered Window Seat, 65 +Quarter-Sawed Oak Settee, 67 +Screen, 71, 94 +Mission Bookrack, 74 +Round Extension Dining Table, 75 +Arm Dining Chair, 79 +Hall Bench, 82 +Sewing Table, 84 +Side Chair, 88 +Another Piano Bench, 91 +Another Screen, 95 +Folding Card Table, 97 +Magazine Stand, 102 +Tabouret, 105 +Porch Swing, 109 +Foot Warmer, 111 +Plate Rack for Dining Room, 113 +Mission Sideboard, 116 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Piano Bench +Detail of the Piano Bench +Detail of the Library Table +The Finished Library Table +Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak +Detail of the Princess Dresser +Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash +Detail of the Sewing Box +Detail of the Fern Stand +Finished Stand in Quartered Oak +The Wardrobe Complete +Detail of Wardrobe +Detail of Construction +Finished Table +Detail of Book Trough +Book Trough Complete +Serving Table Complete +Detail of Serving Table +Umbrella Stand +Detail of Umbrella Stand +Buffet in Quartered Oak +Method of Fastening with Screws +Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet +Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak +Detail of the Writing Desk +Complete Stand +Detail of the Stand +Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand +Stand Made in Oak +Arm Chair Complete +Detail of the Arm Chair +Complete Wall Shelf +Wall Shelf Detail +Completed Pedestal +Detail of the Pedestal +Detail of the Magazine Rack +Magazine Rack Complete +Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree +Table Completed +Detail of a Den Table +Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering +Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap +Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak +Detail of the Oak Settee +Detail of One Section +Screen of Three Sections +Detail of the Bookrack +The Complete Bookrack +Detail of the Table +Table for the Dining-Room Set +Armchair of the Dining-Room Set +Detail of the Armchair +Detail of the Hall Bench +Bench Made of Plain Oak +Sewing Table in Plain Oak +Detail of the Sewing Table +Construction of the Drawer +Side Chair of Dining-Room Set +Detail of the Side Chair +Detail of the Piano Bench +Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak +Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels +Detail of the Frame +Detail of the Card Table +Card Table Ready for Use +The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top +Stand Complete +Detail of Stand +Detail of Tabouret +Finished Tabouret +Complete Porch Swing +Detail of the Porch Swing +Detail of the Foot Warmer +Oak Stool with Brass Cover +Detail of Plate Rack +Dining-Room Plate Rack +Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set +Detail of the Sideboard + + + + +A PIANO BENCH + + +[Illustration: Piano Bench in Black Walnut] + +The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture was made of black +walnut and was finished natural. The finish was applied in the following +manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and sandpapered, then the +surface was covered with a coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had +stood several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate the wood, the +surplus liquid was wiped off with a flannel cloth. After the oil had +stood for 48 hours, a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to +harden overnight. The next morning this shellac was sandpapered lightly +with No. 00 paper and a coat of floor wax was applied according to the +directions which are found upon every can. Two more coats of wax were +applied after intervals of half an hour and the finish was completed. +The effect is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich color of the +wood and the shellac and wax serve to preserve the color. The following +stock is needed: + + 1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S. + 6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S. + +With the exception of the legs all the stock is specified mill-planed to +thickness upon two surfaces. The legs are specified planed on four +sides. Square the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc., +to width and length. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Piano Bench] + +Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are +best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into +the rails. The reason for this is obvious--it is a difficult matter to +fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are tenoned. +When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths adjusts +itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the mortises +carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting the +shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike. + +Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench +together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher +and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either +by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons. + + + + +A LIBRARY TABLE + + +A library table of neat appearance and correct proportions is shown in +the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. This table looks best when +finished in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the other furniture woods +can be used if desired. If the material is ordered from the mill cut to +length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can be avoided. Order +the following pieces: + + 4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S. + 1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S. + 2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S. + 2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S. + 2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S. + 4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S. + 8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S. + 4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood. + 2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood. + 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood. + 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood. + 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood. + + +[Illustration: Detail of the Library Table] + +Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and +laying out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section BB. Care +should be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same +height. This is best done by placing the four legs side by side with the +ends square, and then laying out the mortises across all four at once +with a try-square. + +[Illustration: The Finished Library Table] + +The table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued +together. Be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the +joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out for the posts as +shown. The posts are to be fastened to the board by means of screws. The +holes can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged. The top rails +are also fastened to the top board by means of screws. + +The end pieces can now be made. Two or more boards will have to be +glued together for these. The top corners will have to be cut to fit +about the top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to the top +board. The shelves also have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in +the posts. They are held to the end boards by means of screws. + +If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, they can be glued and +screwed together, which will complete the table except for the slats and +drawers. The slats can be fastened on with nails, then the heads covered +with fancy nails which can be secured for this purpose. The drawer +supports can now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards as shown. +A bottom brace should be fastened under the lower shelves to help steady +the table. The two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch. No +handles are needed as the lower edge of the front board can be used for +pulling them out. + +When the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine +sandpaper and all rough spots removed. Scrape the glue from about the +joints as finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply the stain +preferred or the one that matches the other furniture. This can be any +of the many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. + + + + +A PRINCESS DRESSER + + +A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing +appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The +cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, a great amount +of labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length, +squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material +needed will be as follows: + +[Illustration: Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak] + + 4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S. + 1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S. + 5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S. + 1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S. + 2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S. + 2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S. + 2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S. + 1 20 by 38 bevel mirror. + +The following pieces may be of any soft wood: + + 5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in. + 6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in. + 2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in. + 1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in. + 4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back. + +First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either +chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid +out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and +then marked and cut directly from each tenon. The posts as well as the +end rails should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. end +panels. + +The top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts. The +corners of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing. + +The end sections of the dresser can be glued together first, care being +taken to get the joints square and tight. When these are dry the side +rails and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. The top board +is held in position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened +to the inner sides of the rails. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Princess Dresser] + +The mirror frame is made by mortising the end pieces with the side +pieces as shown. It is rabbeted on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in. +mirror. After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame a thin wood +covering should be tacked on the back to protect the glass. The frame +swings between two upright posts which are securely fastened to the +body of the dresser as shown. + +The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner. The drawing shows +two drawers in the top compartment, but one exactly like the lower can +be made and used instead by simply leaving out the 1 in. partition. +Suitable handles for the drawers can be purchased at any hardware store. + +The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape +all surplus glue from about the joints as the stain will not take where +there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper and apply the stain +desired, which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the +trade for this purpose. + + + + +A SEWING BOX + + +A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite as convenient as +unique, is shown in the illustration. The material is walnut and ash. +The posts are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are finished +in their natural colors. The following is the stock bill: + + 4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut. + 1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut. + 4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash. + 4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut. + 72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash. + +In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine the lengths of pieces +having like widths and thicknesses. + +If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter indicated for the +verticals, it is an easy matter to take a square piece of stock, lay it +off and work it into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises may +again be planed until it has 16 and then 32 sides. The rest may be +removed with sandpaper. Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will +be available. Saw these posts to length and leave the ends square. + +[Illustration: Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash] + +Square up the stock for the other parts. Work the bottom piece to a +16-in. square. The rails are not to be squared on the ends but are to be +mitered each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts by metal +brackets. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Sewing Box] + +Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom may be inserted. +Insert the corners and use glue and nails to hold them in place. Place +the lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts as is necessary +to bring the inner edge of these rails in position. Fasten to the posts. +Miter and place the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened +to the bottom from the outer side and to the lower of the two top rails +from the inner side. Brass-headed tacks such as upholsterers use are +required. + +In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a coat of boiled +linseed oil. Allow this to stand a half hour or so and then wipe the +surface clean. After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating of +shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac when hard with No. 00 +sandpaper and then apply several coats of wax, polishing in the usual +manner. + +Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with which the box may be +moved about. + + + + +A FERN STAND + + +When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying sketch use +quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for +finishing in the different mission stains. Considerable labor can be +saved in its construction by ordering the stock from the mill ready cut +to length, squared and sanded. Order the following pieces: + + 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S. + 8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S. + 16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S. + +The legs are made first. Be sure they are square and of equal length. +The mortises can be laid out and cut or they can be left until the +tenons on the side rails are all made, then marked and cut from each +tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly alike for the four sides, +as the table is square. In addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves +should be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into as shown in +the cross section in the detail drawing. Holes should be cut in the +slats as shown. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Fern Stand] + +The top board should have the corners cut out to fit around the posts. +It is held in place by means of screws through cleats which are fastened +to the inner sides of the top rails. + +The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails that are mortised into +the posts as shown. The top and bottom boards should be of one piece if +possible, otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together. + +Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces fit together square +and tight. The posts and rails should be glued and assembled, then the +top and bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the +clamps are put on. + +[Illustration: Finished Stand in Quartered Oak] + +Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing the clamps. Fasten the +top and bottom boards in place and then go over the stand with fine +sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots. + + + + +A WARDROBE + + +The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying sketch and +detail drawing will be found a great convenience in a bedroom where +closet space is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides +ample room for hanging suits, dresses and other wearing apparel, as well +as space for boots and shoes. It can be made of any of the several +furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to +give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill +ready cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way much labor will be +saved. The following pieces will be needed: + + 4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S. + 1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S. + 1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S. + 4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S. + 2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S. + 8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood. + 2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood. + 2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood. + 4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood. + 3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood. + 2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood. + 2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood. + 1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood. + 1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S. + +[Illustration: The Wardrobe Complete] + +First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. The +upper ends can be chamfered or rounded if desired. The two front posts +are alike, as are the back ones. The mortises should be laid out in each +pair of posts and then cut with a sharp chisel, or they can be left +until the tenons are all made, and then marked and cut from each tenon. +Grooves should be cut on one side of all the posts to take the end +panels. + +The front and lower back rails are plain except for the tenons at each +end, but the end rails and the center uprights should have grooves cut +for the panels the same as the posts. The top back rail serves as a top +back board and should have the corners rounded as shown in the detail +drawing. + +The frame can now be assembled. Glue should be used on all the joints as +it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together +perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the shelves. + +The top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the +posts. The closet is divided into two compartments by a partition. This +can be made of plain boards or panels similar to those in the ends, as +desired. Place the shelves in position as shown. They are held in place +by means of cleats and screws. The one shelf has a partition in its +center with a door on one side and two small drawers on the other. +Drawers should be fitted to three of the other compartments. They are +made in the usual manner except that the front boards should be cut out +at the top for a handhold as shown. + +The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends. They +have a centerpiece and panels to match the ends of the closet. Suitable +hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased at any +hardware store. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Wardrobe] + +The backing is put on in the usual manner. It should be finished on the +front side. + +When complete, the closet should be carefully gone over with fine +sandpaper and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the +desired color. This may be any of the many mission stains supplied by +the trade for this purpose. + + + + +A FINISH + + +An appropriate finish is obtained as follows: First thoroughly scrape +and sandpaper the various parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish +water stain. Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly with No. 00 +sandpaper to lay the grain. Again apply the Flemish stain, but this time +have it weakened by the addition of an equal amount of water. When dry, +sand again as on the first coat. Upon the second coat of stain apply a +thin coat of shellac. This is to protect the high lights from the stain +in the filler which is to follow. Sand lightly, then apply a paste +filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make a dark field for the brown +Flemish. Clean off the surplus and polish in the usual manner. + +Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight, apply a coat of orange +shellac. Successively apply several coats of some good rubbing varnish. +Polish the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with +pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw linseed or crude oil. + + + + +AN OAK TABLE + + +The accompanying illustration shows another style of a mission table. +The stock for this table if ordered as follows and sanded will require +only the work of making the joints and putting them together: + + 4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S. + 4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S. + +This table may be made with mortise and tenon joints or with dowels as +desired. If dowels are used, the upper and lower rails should be made 2 +in. shorter than shown in the drawing. + +Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their surfaces square to +each other and their ends sawed square off. This will simplify the +assembling a great deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2 +in., and chamfer a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops. + +Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking the working face +and edge to work from when laying out the tenons later. Square up the +two lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the same length +as the upper rails. The two ends of the table having the slats should be +glued up first. Lay out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for +these two ends and be sure to work from the marked face and edges, using +a knife line. Cut the tenons, and, by placing them against the posts in +the exact position they are to occupy, mark the places for the mortises. +These joints should be numbered so that each mortise may be cut to fit +its own tenon. + +[Illustration: Detail of Construction Finished Table] + +Square up the slats, 3 by 15-1/8 in., and cut mortises in the upper and +lower rails 1/4 in. deep to let them in. The number of these slats, +their size and spacing may be arranged to suit one's own idea. Put the +posts, upper and lower rails, and slats together without glue first to +determine if the parts fit properly, and then glue and clamp them +together. Hot glue will hold best, if the room and lumber are warm; if +not, it is best to use ordinary liquid glue. While the glue on these two +ends of the table is setting, the other upper rails, top, and stretcher +may be finished. + +The top will have to be made of two or three pieces joined together with +dowels and glue. If possible, use only two boards and be sure the grain +in both pieces runs the same way when they are put together. + +After the ends which were glued have set at least 24 hours, the clamps +may be taken off and the other two upper rails tenoned and mortised in +place. The stretcher may be held with two 3/8-in. dowels in each end, or +with two round-head screws put through the lower rails. When gluing up +the whole table, be sure the sides are square to each other. The top may +now be squared up 24 by 24 in. and the corners cut out for the top of +the posts. The top may be fastened as shown at A and B in the drawing, +or by cleats screwed to the inside of the upper rails and top. + +Before staining, be sure that all surplus glue is scraped off and the +surfaces sanded clean. A weathered or fumed oak stain is suitable for +this table. A good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a little +drop black ground in oil with turpentine and a little linseed oil. Put +this stain on with a brush and allow to stand until it begins to +flatten or dull, then rub off across the grain with a rag or piece of +cotton waste. When thoroughly dry, apply one coat of very thin shellac. +After this has dried, finish with two coats of wax. The shellac prevents +the turpentine in the wax from rubbing out the stain. To get a good wax +finish the work should dry until it will not show finger marks, before +rubbing. + + + + +BOOK TROUGH + + +[Illustration: Detail of Book Trough] + +A very cheap but attractive book trough is shown in the accompanying +photograph. This piece of mission furniture will be found useful in the +home or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight knowledge of +tools. The material should be either oak or chestnut, which can be +secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the +tenons and mortises. The stock needed will be as follows: + + 2 ends, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 31 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 35 in., S-1-S. + 2 trough pieces, 7/8 in. by 4 in. by 35 in., S-2-S. + 8 keys, 5/8 in. by 5/8 in. by 3 in. + +[Illustration: Book Trough Complete] + +The two end pieces should be made first with the top corners rounded off +and the lower end, which is of simple design, can be cut out with a +bracket saw and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises should then be +laid out according to the sketch and cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes +and finishing with a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and +free from slivers. + +The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key tenon at each end to +fit the end pieces. The space between the two tenons at each end can be +cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp. The key holes +should be mortised as shown in the sketch. The trough pieces are made in +a similar manner, care being taken to have all tenons and mortises +perfectly square and a good fit, so the trough when assembled will have +a neat and workmanlike appearance. The trough can be finished in any one +of the many mission finishes which are supplied by the trade for this +purpose. + + + + +AN OAK SERVING TABLE + + +The serving table is another useful piece of furniture that can be made +in mission style. This table should be made in quarter-sawed oak and +stained very light. The stock order is as follows: + + 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S. + 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S. + 1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S. + 2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S. + +[Illustration: Serving Table Complete] + +The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary for squaring to +length and the two back posts should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as +they are the longest and project above the back panel. All of the posts +are cut tapering for a space of 4 in. from the bottom ends. Mortises in +the posts and tenons on the rails are laid out and cut as shown by the +dimensions in the drawing. These parts are then well glued and put +together. The top, which should be of well seasoned wood, is cut to fit +around the back posts so the back edge and the back side of the posts +are flush. The back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners of +the back posts. This is done so the back surface of the panel will be +flush the same as the edge of the top. The slat is fastened with +round-headed brass screws on the front of the two back posts about half +way between the top and the ends of the posts. + +[Illustration: Detail of Serving Table] + +The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two methods. One way is +to use a small button made of wood and so mortised as to set in the +rails and then fastened to the top with screws. About six of these +buttons will be sufficient to hold the top in place. The other method is +to bore a hole slanting on the inside of the rails, directing the bit +toward the top, which will make a seat--if not cut too deep--for a screw +that can be turned direct into the top. + +The glue must be removed from about the joints and the surfaces smoothed +over with fine sandpaper before applying the stain. The directions for +staining will be found on the can in which it is sold. The grain of the +wood will show up well if the surface is given a dull waxed finish after +staining. + + + + +AN UMBRELLA STAND + + +[Illustration] + +The umbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration will be found +quite appropriate for the hall or reception room that is furnished in +mission style. It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but +quarter-sawed oak gives the best results. The stock necessary to make +this stand can be secured from the mill ready cut to length, squared and +sanded, and is given in the following list: + + 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S. + 4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S. + 4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S. + 4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S. + 1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in. + +First square up the posts and bevel the tops as shown in the detail +sketch. Place them side by side, on a flat surface with the ends square +and lay out the mortises with a try-square on all four pieces at the +same time. This will insure your getting them all straight and of the +same height. Now lay out the tenons on the rails in the same manner and +cut them to fit the mortises in the posts. Mortises should also be cut +in the rails for the ends of the side slats as shown. Try all the joints +and see that they fit tight and square. Glue two sides of the stand +together and let them dry for at least 24 hours, then glue the remaining +parts, being careful to get everything together perfectly square. + +The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It should have a hole cut +in it for the drip pan. The pan should be about 6 or 7 in. in diameter. +One suitable for the purpose can be purchased in any hardware store. The +bottom board can be fastened to the rails with nails driven from the +under side, or cleats can be nailed to the rails for it to rest upon. + +[Illustration] + +When the stand is complete, scrape all glue from about the joints and go +over the whole with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the +finish you like best, or the one that will match your other furniture. + +Should the builder want an entire hand-made stand, the drip pan may be +beaten into shape from sheet brass or copper. This kind of work is known +as repoussé. After beating the pan into shape, it can be finished in +antique, old copper or given a polished surface, as desired. + + + + +A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET + + +The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient and attractive for +the dining room. For the best effect it should be made of quartered oak, +stained brown or weathered and trimmed with brass hardware. + +[Illustration: Buffet in Quartered Oak] + +To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure the following pieces +of stock, surfaced on four sides and cut to length: + + 4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S. + 4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S. + 2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S. + 1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S. + 2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S. + 1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S. + 8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S. + +Begin the work on the rails for the sides of the stand. Have them all +squared up to exactly the same length and to the correct width and +thickness. Mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them with a saw +and chisel. + +When this is finished, try the legs to see that they are all the same +length and that their surfaces are square with each other. Next mark the +mortises in the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the mortises, +first bore to depth with a bit 1/8 in, smaller than the width of the +mortise and cut to the line with a chisel. + +[Illustration: Method of Fastening with Screws] + +Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in two lower rails for the +tenons on the ends of the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller +mortises in them for the keys, should be cut first. Square up the two +side panels and cut grooves 3/8 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in +the rails and part of the legs. + +Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, and cut +mortises for them in the two upper rails. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet] + +The two sides of the buffet are now ready to be glued up and clamped. +While the glue on these is setting, make the door. The rails are +mortised into the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive the +panel. It is best to get the stock a little full for the door so that it +may be made up a little larger than necessary and planed down to fit. + +There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten the top and back. +The top and back are held with screws as shown in sketch. + +Taper the keys only slightly, otherwise they will keep working loose. + +Stain with two coats of weathered oak, give one coat of thin shellac to +fix the stain and two coats of wax for a soft-gloss finish. + + + + +A WRITING DESK + + +The desk shown in the illustration was made of plain-sawed white oak. +The copper lighting fixtures were made by the amateur as were the hinges +and the drawer pulls. The doors are fitted with art-glass panels. The +following stock list is needed: + + 1 top, 3/4 by 22-1/2 by 41 in., S-2-S. + 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S. + 2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S. + 2 rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S. + 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14 in., S-2-S. + 4 drawer sides, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S. + 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 14 in., S-2-S. + 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 19 by 14 in., S-2-S. + 4 slides, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19 in., S-2-S. + 8 guides, 3/4 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S. + 2 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 16 in., S-4-S. + 4 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 1 back, 3/4 by 16 by 35 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 8 by 35 in., S-2-S. + 2 shelves, 3/4 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 4 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 8 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 4 in., S-2-S. + +Square the legs to length and lay out and cut the mortises thereon. Lay +off the tenons on the rails, after having squared the rails to length +and width, and cut them. + +Work up the top of the table and then the drawer stock and cabinet. +Assemble the ends of the frame first, using good hot glue and enough +clamps to hold the parts together properly. After the glue has hardened +on these, the clamps may be removed and the front, back rails and the +stretcher assembled. + +[Illustration: Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak] + +While the glue is hardening on the main frame the top cabinet may be +built and assembled. This cabinet is detachable from the table proper +and is to be held in place by means of cleats upon the back. These +cleats are not specified in the bill; they may be obtained from scrap +stock. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Writing Desk] + +For a piece of woodwork of this style some of the softer browns of the +mission stains will be most appropriate. After all parts have been +thoroughly cleaned by scraping and sandpapering, a stain may be applied. +Allow this to dry, then sand it lightly and apply a thin coat of +shellac. Sand the shellac lightly and apply a filler of a color to match +the stain, but darker in tone, of course. Clean off the surplus in the +usual manner and then apply a coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and +apply several coats of some good polishing wax. + + + + +MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND + + +The illustration shows a very handy music and bookstand, which also can +be used at the bedside as a reading stand. The following list of +material will be required for construction: + + 1 standard, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 37 in., S-4-S. + 1 horizontal, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 15 in., S-4-S. + 1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 14 in., S-4-S. + 1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 12 in., S-4-S. + 2 braces, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 9 in., S-4-S. + 1 board, 1/2 by 8 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 4 blocks, 1-1/8 in. square. + 2 gauge clamps. + 1 strip, 1/2 by 1 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 8 round-head brass screws. + 1 brass rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 12 in, long. + 1 brass piece, 1/4 by 3/4 by 10 in. + +[Illustration: Complete Stand] + +Cut a tenon on the lower end of the upright and make a mortise in the +center of the long crosspiece to receive the tenon. The horizontal has +tenons cut on both ends which fit into mortises cut in the sides of both +crosspieces. The upper corners on the ends of both crosspieces are cut +sloping on a 45-deg. angle. The blocks for the feet are attached to the +under side and at the end on each crosspiece with screws and hot glue, +the screw heads being sunk so that they will not catch on carpets or mar +the floor. The braces are attached with round-head screws after they +are cut on each end to fit the standard and crosspiece. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Stand] + +The book rest is cut from the board. The openings are made by sawing the +pieces out with a coping saw, and the edges are dressed up with a sharp +chisel. The lip strip is then glued to the lower edge of the board. + +One end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut in one of the gauge +clamps. The slot must be cut at the right angle to give the desired +slope to the book rest. The gauge clamps are joined with two small +square strips of oak as shown. The small rod brace is flattened at both +ends and a hole drilled in each to fasten it with screws as shown. The +brass strip is bent in the middle at right angles and drilled to receive +screws for fastening it in the corner of the upright and horizontal +pieces. + + + + +A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND + + +The accompanying picture shows a stand that is intended primarily for +holding a large-size dictionary. The shelves may be utilized for holding +books, magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best if made of some +hard wood, such as oak. Of the soft woods chestnut has the best grain +for finishing, being hardly distinguishable from red oak. + +The following pieces will be necessary: + + 2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S. + 1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S. + 1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S. + +Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint edge on each piece and from +this square up the lower ends and square lines across the inner +surfaces to indicate the positions of the lower edges of the shelves. + +Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad surfaces of the shelves +and square them to size on one edge and the two ends. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand] + +[Illustration: Stand Made in Oak] + +Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline, but do not cut to +these lines until the gains and mortises which are to receive the ends +of the shelves and their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying out +these outlines at this time is done so as to give the exact width the +shelves are to have. These dimensions can be determined by measuring +across the sides between the outlines at the points where the shelves +are to be placed. + +The shelves which have no tenons are to be let into the sides 1/4 in. +They should be shouldered 1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove +will not show on the face. + +The lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened by means of very +small brads, the heads of which should be covered with putty, colored to +match the finish. + +A suitable finish may be obtained as follows: + +First see that all the mill marks are removed, using a smooth plane and +steel scraper and sandpaper, then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water +stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. 00 paper. Apply a second +coat of stain, diluting it by the addition of an equal volume of water. +This is to produce a stronger contrast. Sand this lightly and put on a +very thin coat of shellac to bind the filler and to prevent the stain in +the filler which follows from discoloring the high lights. Sand this +lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to the directions +that will be found on the can. This filler should be colored in the +following proportions: Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb. +After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put on a coat of +orange shellac. Follow this with several coats of some good rubbing +varnish. The first coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled hair, +and the last with powdered pumice stone and raw linseed or crude oil. + + + + +A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR + + +[Illustration: Arm Chair Complete] + +[Illustration: Detail of the Arm Chair] + +A mission arm chair of simple design and construction is shown in the +accompanying illustration. This chair is suitable for any room of the +house and can be made of wood to match other furniture. Quarter-sawed +oak is the wood most generally used, and it is also very easy to obtain. +The stock can be ordered from the mill, cut to length, squared and +sanded. Following is a list of the material that will be needed: + + 2 front legs, 2 by 2 by 26-3/4 in. + 2 back legs, 2 by 4 by 43 in. + 2 arm rests, 1 by 4 by 26 in. + 5 rails, 3/4 by 4 by 21-1/2 in. + 5 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 2-1/2 in. . + 2 back pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 16-1/2 in. + 1 piece leather, 31 in, square. + 1 piece burlap, 28 in, square. + 2 pieces leather, 13 by 18 in. + 2 pieces burlap, 13 by 18 in. + 1 box 8 oz. tacks. + 5-1/2 doz. ornamental nails. + +Start with the front legs. Cut a tenon 1-1/4 in. square and 3/4 in, long +on one end to fit the arm rests. The mortises for the side rails are cut +1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in, deep. The tenons on the rails are cut to fit +these mortises, care being taken to get them all the same length between +shoulders. The back legs are cut with an offset of 2 in. as shown in the +detail drawing and also have mortises cut in them for the back +crosspieces. The upright pieces in the back are fastened into the +crosspieces by means of tenons and mortises, and should be in place when +the crosspieces are fastened to the legs. + +The arms are cut from the 1 by 4 by 26-in. pieces. Be careful to get +them so they will pair. The outside edge can be either curved or +straight as desired. The front ends of the arms are held in place by +mortises which fit over the tenons on the ends of the front legs, while +the back ends are held in place by round-headed screws as shown. + +The chair is now ready to be glued. Be sure to get the parts together +perfectly square, and when dry scrape off all surplus glue around the +joints, for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the +result of failing to remove it. Go over the parts carefully with fine +sandpaper and remove all rough marks. Then apply the stain you wish to +use. To make the seat, first fit boards in the bottom and nail them to +the side rails as shown. Fill the space with hair or elastic cotton felt +to about 3 in. above the edge of the rails. Bind this down tightly with +a piece of burlap and tack the edges to the rails. Cut out the corners +of the burlap so that it will fit about the posts. Put the leather on +over this and tack the edges to the bottoms of the rails. Then finish +with the ornamental nails as shown. + +To finish the back, first tack a piece of burlap over the opening, then +place a layer of hair or cotton felt on this about 1 in. thick. Stretch +the leather over this and fasten with ornamental nails. The back side is +finished in the same manner, except that the hair is omitted. + + + + +A WALL SHELF + + +Coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and take a more satisfactory +finish than close-grained woods. For this reason chestnut or oak is +suggested for this shelf. Chestnut has a beautiful grain and is soft and +easily worked. + +There will be needed the following pieces: + + Sides, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S. + Lower shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S. + Upper shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S. + Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S. + Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S. + +In making out this stock bill the pieces have been specified 1/4 in. +wider and 1/2 in, longer than the finished piece is to be to allow for +squaring up. The thicknesses are specified mill-planed exact so that all +that is necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from the two +broad surfaces. + +It is quite possible that one may have a particular space or a +particular set of books to place in the shelf. In such a case the length +of the horizontals should be lengthened or shortened to meet the +particular demands when ordering the lumber. + +[Illustration: Complete Wall Shelf] + +Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size. They are to be all of +the same length. Next shape up the end pieces. The amount of slope for +the front edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces have +been squared up and the mill-marks removed, the dadoes or grooves and +gains may be laid out and cut. + +Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance of getting all the +mill-marks off before putting on any finish. When boards are planed at +the mill the planing is done by means of two or four knives revolving +above or below the board--sometimes both above and below at the same +time. These knives leave the surfaces filled with little ridges and +hollows across the grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible +to the eye on the unfinished surface, show up as ugly streaks upon the +surface after it has had a finish of stain and filler applied. + +The joints here used are typical and the beginner can readily find how +they are to be made from any good book on wood-working. + +[Illustration: Wall Shelf Detail] + +There are several ways of fastening the parts. They may be fastened by +means of round-head blued screws. They may be fastened with carriage +screws. The one in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire +nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental heads to represent +old-fashioned hand-wrought nails. + +It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain and filler before +the parts are assembled. A suitable finish is obtained as follows: After +the parts are thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water stain, +wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had time to soak into the +wood very much. Allow this to dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00 +paper, after which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste +filler--directions will be found on the can. Follow this, when hardened, +with several coats of floor wax. + + + + +A PEDESTAL + + +The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of +furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in +design and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple +tools and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of +quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also +looks the best when finished. If you order the material from the mill +ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much hard labor will be saved. +Following is a list of the material needed: + + 1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S. + 1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S + 8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in. + 2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S. + 2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in. + 1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in. + 4 blocks, 1 in. square. + +[Illustration: Completed Pedestal] + +Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail +them together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then +set the heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in. +piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on all +sides. Pick out the best board for the top. On the under side and 1/2. +in. in from the edges, nail four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces which +have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view. Now fasten this +top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top piece +into the top board. Be careful to get this top on square with the post +and exactly in center. + +The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is +nailed to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks +should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on. + +When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission +stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose. + +[Illustration] + +After staining the wood, the surface can be given a polished or dull +finish, as desired. Mission furniture requires a dull finish, and this +may be obtained by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on the wood. + + + + +MAGAZINE RACK + + +The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack that will find favor with +many amateur wood-workers on account of its simplicity in design and its +rich, massive appearance when properly finished. It is so constructed +that each piece may be polished, stained and finished before it is +finally put together. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use. +Plain-sawed oak looks well, but it is more liable to warp than +quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces as wide as the ones +here used. Following is a list of the material needed: + + 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S. + 5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S. + 20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long. + +Considerable labor can be saved if the material be ordered from the mill +ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The corner posts should be made +first. The most convenient and accurate method of laying out the +mortises is to square one end of each post and lay them on the bench +flat, with the squared ends even with each other; then clamp them +securely and lay out the mortises on one side across all four pieces at +once; then loosen the clamp and project the marks to the other side with +a try-square. Now saw along these marks, making each cut just deep +enough to bring the mortises diagonally across the piece from one corner +to the opposite corner as shown in the detail sketch. Be careful not to +get the mortises wider than the shelves are thick. Bevel the tops of the +posts as shown. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Magazine Rack] + +[Illustration: Magazine Rack Complete] + +See that the ends of the shelves are square and smooth, then set a +scratch gauge so that the scriber is just 2 in. from the face of the +block and mark this distance off each way from the corner of the +shelves. Saw these corners diagonally across as shown, being careful not +to saw off too much. + +The parts can now be assembled. Place all the parts in position, then +pass a rope around each end and twist it up tightly with a small stick. +If this is properly done, you can now pick up the rack and handle it in +any way you wish. The screws can now be put in the corners. You can use +flat-head screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head blue +screws and let the heads project. After the screws are all in, dress off +all unevenness where the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark +each shelf and post so that you can put it together again after the +parts are finished. Take the rack apart and transfer the marks to some +part of the mortises and shelves that will not be covered with the +finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish you wish to use and when +the parts are thoroughly dry they can be reassembled and your rack will +be complete. + + + + +A HALL TREE + + +When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying illustration use +quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for +finishing in the different mission stains. This is a very useful and +attractive piece of mission furniture and is also very easy to +construct. The stock can be purchased ready cut to length, mill-planed +and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list: + + 1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in. + 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in. + 8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in. + 4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in. + +[Illustration: Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree] + +First square up all the posts and bevel them at the tops as shown. Then +cut the mortises making them 1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the +tenons on the braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the +distance between the shoulders of the braces all of the same length. A +good way to do this is to place them all side by side on a flat surface +with the ends square and lay them all out at once. The top arms can be +made in the same manner. The tenons should fit good and tight in all the +posts. + +The parts can now be glued and clamped together. When they are dry, +scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints and go over the whole +with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the finish you like +best or the one that will match your other furniture. Purchase a few +hooks at a hardware store and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the +hall tree is complete. + + + + +A TABLE FOR THE DEN + + +The table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for +the den; it might be used in any other part of the house as well. It may +be built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed white oak. The wood +should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections. + +Order the material as follows: + + 1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S. + 4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S. + 2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S. + 2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S. + 4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S. + +Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut the four legs to +length. To get the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of +the tenons, lay out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel +along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines. + +[Illustration: Table Completed] + +The top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts +to "set in." This is to give the frame more rigidity. The lower +horizontals or stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed. +That the keys may be alike in size, a good plan is to make them first, +then make the mortises in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to +the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so, then to length and +joint one edge straight and square. Next lay off across the key the +lines A and B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and B 3/8 +in. Draw a sloping line through these points and work this edge of the +key to size and shape. Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise, +in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in. for the top +opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom. + +[Illustration: Detail of a Den Table] + +The most satisfactory finish for mission designs, and the easiest to +apply, is wax. It is an old finish that was superseded by varnish. Our +ancestors used to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine. +Cut up the beeswax and add to it about one-third its volume of +turpentine. Heat to the boiling point in a double boiler. Or, melt a +quantity of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine. Care +must be taken that the turpentine shall not catch fire. + +Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased now-a-days. They +require a smooth surface and a thin application for a successful result. +Too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly, white, +chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. These are especially noticeable +upon dark finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not +necessary if the ordinary wax is properly applied. 1--Stain the wood, if +a very dark finish is desired. 2--If the wood is coarse grained, put on +one or two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth +surface may be prepared. Allow the stain 12 hours in which to dry, also +each coat of filler. 3--With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax +as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste form. 4--Allow this +to stand five or ten minutes, then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to +polish. 5--Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat. + +[Illustration: WINDOW SEAT Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the +Covering] + + + + +A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT + + +A portable window seat of neat appearance, which is designed to take the +place of a cedar chest, is shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is +taken to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically airtight +and mothproof, providing a place in which to store extra bedding or +furs. The following list of materials will be needed: + + 36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box. + 1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long. + 32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips. + 54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips. + 16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws. + 1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in. + 2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in. + 2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in. + 20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square. + +The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail the sides and the bottom +to the ends, being careful to get the box perfectly square. The corners +can be dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it takes in making +the dovetailed joints will greatly add to the durability of the box. The +box can be made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends to posts 2 +in. square placed on the inside. Cleats should also be placed on the +inside, at the bottom, as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to +the bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached with long +screws run through from the bottom of the box. + +[Illustration: Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the +Burlap] + +The green burlap is glued to the outside of the box. Be careful not to +apply too much glue on the burlap, or it will soak through. This should +be tried out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application of glue +is ascertained, applied to one side of the burlap and stuck on the box. +Place the cloth on so the weave will run in the same direction on all +sides. The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as shown in Fig. 2. +Care should be taken to make the mitered joints a tight fit. After the +miters are all cut and the location of the squares, found, they are +marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed over the green before +the slats are fastened permanently. The slats are put in place over the +burlap and fastened with small brass screws. + +Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing the edges to lap over +the ends and sides and fasten under the side strips. This top can be +stuffed with excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads driven in +to hold it in place. The slats can be stained any color to suit the +maker. They should be removed from the box when being stained so as not +to spot or stain the burlap. + + + + +QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE + + +The mission settee shown in the accompanying picture should be made of +quarter-sawed white oak. The material needed will be as follows: + + 4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S. + 12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. + 1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S. + 1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S. + 1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S. + 2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S. + 2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S. + +[Illustration: Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak] + +On account of the unusual width of the pieces that go into the makeup of +this settee, it will be necessary to have the wood thoroughly seasoned +before putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause them to +crack open. + +Begin work by making the ends of the settee first. Cut the posts to +length, chamfering both top and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not +splinter or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and cut the mortises +as shown on the drawing. With the posts finished, lay out the end rails, +cutting the tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the slats are +to be fitted. + +It should be noted that the drawing calls for the "setting in" of the +whole of the ends of the slats, there being no shoulders. This is much +easier and gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides of +the mortises are carefully cut. + +Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts and then put the ends +together. In addition to the glue it will be well to through pin each of +the tenons and mortises. These pins may be put in flush and permanent on +the ends of the settee. On the side rails, however, the pins are to be +allowed to project so that they can be removed, and no glue is used in +the joint. + +While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare the rails of front and +back. Scrape and sandpaper these and when the clamps can be removed from +the ends put the whole frame together. The ends of all projecting tenons +are chamfered. + +The illustration shows a loose leather cushion. There is quite a variety +of materials out of which such a cushion can be made. The best, of +course, is leather. In the highest class of furniture where loose +cushions are used, the seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame +together on which is woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is +fastened to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the cushions +when placed upon it make a very comfortable seat. The stock bill for +this settee calls for such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if +desired. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Oak Settee] + +This piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak. See +that all glue is removed from the surface, and that the wood is clean +and smooth, and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper this +lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain has thoroughly dried, and put +on a coat of lackluster or an equivalent. + + + + +A SCREEN + + +In selecting or making up mission furniture for the home, a screen is +necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room. The screen shown +in the accompanying illustration consists of a few parts which are +easily put together. The stock can be bought of any planing mill planed, +sanded and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which should be of dark +color, can be purchased at a dry goods store. The following list of +material will be needed. + + 6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in. + 6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in. + 6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in. + 3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in. + 6 yd. of cloth. + 4 double-acting hinges. + 2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws. + +Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep in the center of one +surface on each of the 3/4-in. rails. Cut out the ends with a compass +saw. The five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges of these +panels are inserted in the grooves of the 3/4-in. rails, using plenty of +good glue. + +When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours the screen frame can be +put together. Holes for the screws should be bored through the posts +where the 3/4-in. rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain +of each rail. + +Scrape off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well. When +this is done the finish can be applied. Any one of the mission stains +can be used and finished with wax and polished. + +[Illustration: Detail of One Section] + +The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each end and one 1/2-in. rail +put through each hem. Place the top rail in position and screw it fast. +Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. rail with screws at +the bottom. Each section of the screen is finished in the same way. + +The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end of the posts in the +same manner as hanging a door. + +The sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder. Instead +of using cloth, heavy paste-board, or board made up to take the place +of plaster on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming a +ground that will take paint and bronze decorations. A piece of this +material can be easily cut to fit the opening in each section. + +[Illustration: Screen of Three Sections] + + + + +A MISSION BOOKRACK + + +The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission +lines. Enough stock may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over 1 +in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, secure the +following, cut to exact lengths: + + 2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S. + 4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S. + 8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S. + +Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number +both parts of each joint. There will be twelve lap joints, and great +care must be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half +the depth of each piece. + +First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark the width of each +notch, lay the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get +the exact size. Knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge +lines for the depth of each notch. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Bookrack] + +Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends. + +In each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the +rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews. + +A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring +of the surface upon which the rack is to rest. + +[Illustration: The Complete Bookrack] + +Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well. A waxed finish +should be used. Before applying the wax, it is well to use a very thin +coat of shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a few hours and +allow an interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax. + +Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied by cutting off part of +two diagonally opposite racks. + + + + +A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE + + +[Illustration: Detail of the Table] + +This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white +oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated +in solid pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to +secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly +done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to +the white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular facing is best +made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then +veneering the outer surface of this. Order the following stock: + + 4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S. + 4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius. + 1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S; + 3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S. + 4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple. + 2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple. + 4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple. + 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple. + 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple. + +[Illustration: Table for the Dining-Room Set] + +There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the +other. Several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready +adjustment with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial +manufacturers. The amateur will do well to secure a set before he +undertakes to work these slides to shape. + +Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay out and work the +mortises. The ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the +posts. Prepare the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower +edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare the top. After this, assemble +this much of the frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue. + +Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown. +There will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing +where it is fastened to the top, etc. + +For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Upon this, after it +has hardened and been sanded with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac. +Upon the shellac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing +varnish. Rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with +pulverized pumice and crude or linseed oil. + +If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the wood first with a +water stain. Sand this lightly when dry, then apply a second coat of +stain diluted one-half with water. Again sand and then apply a thin coat +of shellac. Sand this lightly, and apply the filler and the varnish as +described above. + + + + +AN ARM DINING CHAIR + + +[Illustration: Armchair of the Dining-Room Set] + +This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed oak. Quarter-sawed +oak might be used, or black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies +the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible. If some +amateur craftsman should prefer to do his own surfacing, thereby saving +somewhat on the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of each +piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to thickness. It is hardly +profitable to get stock entirely in the rough if the work is to be done +by hand. The following is the stock bill: + + 2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S. + 1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S. + 2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. + 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. + 4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. + 2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S. + 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S. + 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. + 2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S. + +The design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is +the same. Also the back leg parallels the front below the seat. In +commercial practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than +the fronts and the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well +as above. As this construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all +tenons it complicates the problem when the work is not done by +machinery. The ambitious amateur may readily get the proportion of slant +by measuring common chairs. For mission effects the chair looks well +with front and back the same width. + +Prepare the front posts first and then the rear. The rear posts are to +be cut from the single piece of stock specified. By proper planning both +pieces may be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the mortises. + +Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the tenons. The back rails +are to have mortises in their edges to receive the ends of the slats. +Instead of tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to receive +the whole end--in other words, house the ends. + +Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and then the front of the +chair. After the glue has set sufficiently, assemble the remainder of +the parts. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Armchair] + +Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and then apply the finish. + +For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed upon slats or the +bottom may be upholstered in the usual manner, using webbing on heavy +canvas, and then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather; the +whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the leather with ornamental +nails. + + + + +A HALL BENCH + + +All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in. oak, excepting the +slats, which may be of a cheaper wood. The following list of lumber will +be required to build it: + + 4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood. + 2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood. + 4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S. + 2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S. + 2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S. + 2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Hall Bench] + +Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in. +material diagonally 1 in. from each corner, thus making the legs. The +edges are planed square and the ends should be rounded a little so that +there will be no splinters projecting. The legs are mortised 1 in. deep +for the side rails. The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being +taken to get the right angle and a good fit. These can now be fastened +together, using hot glue on the entire surface of the joint. + +[Illustration: Bench Made of Plain Oak] + +While these are drying the ends can be made as shown in the plan. The 3 +by 4-in. holes are cut at equal distances apart. Be sure that each end +is perfectly square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips at each end. +The ends are then glued and nailed to the sides, using finishing nails, +which are set and the holes filled with colored putty. + +The cleats are now fastened, extra care being taken when fastening them +over the joints where the legs receive the side rails, as this will help +to strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats and are placed +at equal distances apart. + +The bench is now finished, but before applying the stain, see that all +parts are free from glue and are well sandpapered. + +The leather cushion should be the loose kind and of a shade to harmonize +with the finish. + + + + +A SEWING TABLE + + +This convenient and useful table will be much appreciated by any woman. +It has two drawers for sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread +the work upon. + +The following list of material will be needed for its construction. The +sizes given are exact, so if the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready +planed and squared, a slight allowance must be made for this. + + 4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S. + 9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S. + 2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S. + 2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S. + +Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with each other. The ends +must be square with all surfaces, but need not be planed smooth as +neither will be seen in the finished table. + +[Illustration: Sewing Table in Plain Oak] + +Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in each side and back are +placed with the 2-in. surface out, while the three in the front have the +2-in. surface up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the tenons, 1 in, +by 3/8 in., with a knife and gauge lines on each end of the rails for +the sides and back. Mark the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the +sketch, on each end of front rails. Cut all the tenons with a backsaw +and smooth them with a chisel. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Sewing Table] + +Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking measurements for each +mortise from the tenon which is to go into it. Fit together all rails +and legs without glue to detect any errors. + +See that the panels for sides and back are squared up true and the +surfaces smooth. Mark the grooves for the panels in the side and back +rails and legs. Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a depth +of 1/4 in. + +Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides first. While the glue +is setting, square up and smooth the top and two leaves perfectly. + +Now glue up the whole table, having set in the front and back rails and +panel. The drawer slides, two on each side, should next be put in. A +nail through them and into each leg will hold them, as there is only the +weight of the drawers resting on them. Fasten the top with screws +through the rails from the under side. The leaves are attached with two +2-in. butt hinges which must be set in flush with the under surface to +prevent a crack showing between the table top and leaf when the latter +is raised. The small bracket hinged to the panel supports the open leaf. + +[Illustration: Construction of the Drawer] + +The drawers are now made. Allow the side to lap over the front 1/2 in. +as shown in sketch and fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let +into the sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed to them, +because this would cause the drawer to stick, when the bottom expands. + +Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the drawer pulls. + +Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax if a dull gloss is +wanted, or with one coat of shellac and two coats of varnish for a +highly polished surface. + + + + +A SIDE CHAIR + + +A companion piece to the chair with arms and the sideboard is the side +chair illustrated herewith. It should be made of the same kind of wood +and finished to correspond with the armchair. Order the following stock +list: + + 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 piece for back posts, 1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 2 lower front and back rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S. + +Square up the front posts to length. From the single piece specified cut +out the back posts, giving them the amount of slant indicated in the +drawing. Set these four posts upright in the positions they are to +occupy relative to one another in the finished piece, and mark off, as +with penciled circles, the approximate locations of mortises. After +this, lay them on the bench side by side, even the lower ends and locate +accurately the ends of the mortises. Gauge their sides. + +Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder lines and the cheeks of +the tenons and cut them. Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back +rails. + +[Illustration: Side Chair of Dining-Room Set] + +While the drawing shows a chair in which the front and back are of equal +width, the amateur may make the back narrower if he so desires. A +measurement of a common chair will give the proportions. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Side Chair] + +Place the front and the back in the clamps and after the glue has had +time to harden, assemble the remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and +sandpaper all the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue. Wood +finish will not "take hold" where any glue has been allowed to remain. + +The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested for the armchair. +This should not be done, however, until the finish has been applied. + +A simple finish is obtained by the application of a coat of paste filler +of a soft brown color, if oak has been used. Apply and clean this off in +the manner directed by the manufacturers and after it has had 24 hours +in which to harden, sand it lightly with No. 00 paper. Over this apply a +thin coat of shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper lightly with +fine paper. Upon the shellac apply several coats of some good rubbing +wax. Follow the directions that are to be found upon the cans, being +careful not to apply too much at a time. If too much wax is applied, it +stays in the small pores of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like +appearance. + + + + +ANOTHER PIANO BENCH + + +The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut or oak and should be +finished in the natural color for walnut, but stained some rich brown +for oak. + +The following pieces will be needed: + + 1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S. + +The keys can be secured from the waste that will be cut off from the +other parts. + +Square up the top in the usual manner to the size indicated in the +working drawing. In a similar manner square up the stretcher to width +and length. + +There will be no need to square the ends of the rails as they are to be +cut off on a slant. Square up the sides or edges and then lay off and +cut the slanting ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off and work +the shape on their under edges. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Piano Bench] + +The ends are best laid off by means of a template or pattern for which a +piece of rather heavy paper will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a +center line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant has been +laid out. Lay out the form at the bottom, then fold the paper along the +center line and trace the other half. With this pattern lay off the +outline upon the wood. For convenience in laying out the grooves for the +rails and the mortise for the tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work +a face edge upon each leg and allow this to remain until these joints +have been made and the parts fitted. The shape at the bottom of the leg +is merely suggestive and may be modified as desired. + +Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher. Then lay out and work the +grooves upon the rails. Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to +allow the leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench the bracing +that is needed to make it stand firmly. Work the grooves in the legs and +the mortises for the rails. + +[Illustration: Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak] + +It should be noted that the mortise for the key in the stretcher must be +laid out before the shoulders and cheeks of the tenon on which the +mortise is made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place to put +the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise for the key. + +Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble them. No glue is +needed. The rails are held in place by dowel pins, the heads of which +are allowed to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental +effect. The top is attached by means of small angle irons or by means of +blocks and screws fastened to the corners made by top and rails. + + + + +ANOTHER SCREEN + + +The screen shown in the accompanying illustration is made of burlap and +plain-sawed oak. The stock list follows: + + 2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S. + 2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S. + 1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S. + 1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S. + 4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S. + +The two base pieces may be shaped first. The drawing shows the form and +the dimensions. Make use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in +the base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges are removed to +make the slanting sides. + +Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting the tenons at the +bottoms, and shaping the tops as shown. + +Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown, working the tenons +upon the ends of each and the mortises in the lower two for the tenons +of the middle vertical. + +For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece and square one end of +each to that. Lay off the curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out. +Use this block as a pattern or template to lay off the others. + +Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts, then assemble them, +using clamps and good hot glue. Take care to see that there is no warp +in the frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the frame has +hardened, remove the clamps and attach the base blocks and the braces. +The braces are secured by means of round-head screws. + +[Illustration: Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels] + +Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish as desired. + +For the paneling, frames will be needed about which to fasten the +burlap. These may be made of 1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces +will be necessary: + + 2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S. + 2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S. + 4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S. + 4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S. + +Make these frames enough smaller than the openings they are to occupy to +allow for burlap and tacks. These frames are held in place by putting +fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap is attached. +Holes are bored in the rails to correspond to them. The lower edges of +the frames are held in place by nails inserted up through the rails upon +which the frames rest. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Frame] + + + + +A FOLDING CARD TABLE + + +The accompanying sketch shows the details of a card table that can be +folded up and carried about or stored away when not in use. We would +advise making two tables at the same time, as the material for both can +be purchased nearly as cheaply as for one. The material necessary for +making one table is given in the following list: + + 1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar. + 2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar. + 4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak. + 4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak. + 4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak. + 4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with + batten. + 1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square. + 4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long. + 30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled + 3/16 in. + 4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep. + 2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long. + 4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips. + 1 piece felt, 1 yd. square. + 1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt). + 1 pt. wood stain. + 3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long. + Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks. + +Begin by squaring up the four legs making them all 24-3/4 in. long and 1 +in. square. Also square up the crosspieces marked B in the detail +drawing. These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in. holes about +1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins. +Measure back 1-1/2 in. from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole, +7/8 in. deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each leg, 3/4 in. +long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in. hole. Round the corners of +the piece B at the top as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together +with glue and brads, being careful to get them square with each other. +After the glue is set bore a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7 +in. from the edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the +corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then stain and polish. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Card Table] + +[Illustration: Card Table Ready for Use] + +Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch on a level surface with +the 7/8-in. edge up, place the cardboard on top and tack it fast to the +pieces, using 6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it fast +also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with brads. The four pieces of +electric wire moulding should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or +the same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood about 4 in. +long in the groove at each end of the moulding, plane down and fasten +with brads. Next take the thin batten or covering strip that comes with +the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center, 6 in, from one end, +and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in. from the other end. With a gouge cut a +slot 1/4 in. wide from one hole to the other in the center as shown in +the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot smooth and then fasten the batten +to the moulding with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a point +3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill 1/4-in. holes through the +moulding at the small ends of the slots. These are for the ends of the +brace rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they are open. Tack the +two pieces of moulding marked F and J on the remaining edges of the +cardboard with the slots facing in and the large holes of the slots at +opposite sides, then place the other two pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside +of these, or just the length of the cross ends of the legs, with the +slots facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast with 4-oz. +tacks. Use brads at the ends and be careful that they do not enter the +1/4-in. holes. This part of the table can now be stained or painted the +same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also be stained at this +time. + +The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise. One end should be 1 +in. long and should be square with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center +to center and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at a slight +angle out from square. Just at this bend raise a burr with a sharp +chisel to keep the washer on. Now place five of the copper washers on +the 1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will not slip off. +They should be loose so that they will roll and slip on the brace. Slip +a washer on the other end and put the end of the rod through the +3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side, place another washer +on the rod, saw off and rivet down the end. + +[Illustration: The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top] + +To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one of the braces and the +washers in the large hole in the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in. +hole in the crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then drive an +oak dowel or rod into each end. This is the hinge or pivot that the legs +swing on. When the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should +spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock the leg in place. +Rubber tips should be put on the bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden +buttons should be made and fastened to the cardboard as shown at K for +locking the legs when they are closed. + +The felt can now be put on the top of the table. Stretch it tightly and +then tack the edges securely to the sides of the table. Now fasten on +the 3/8-in. side pieces and the brass corners with the small brass +screws as shown on the drawing, and the table is complete. + + + + +MAGAZINE STAND + + +If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting out the material +used in this piece of furniture, it can be purchased from a mill already +planed, sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any kind of wood +can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak with a mission stain and waxed, +gives the best appearance. The following pieces will be needed: + + 2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S. + 2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S. + 4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws. + +Take the four shelves and line them up with their backs and ends even +and clamp them together firmly. Mark the places for the slats across the +edges of the shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends. Use +a square to get the lines at right angles to the surface. Another line +is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. The ends of +the shelves are marked in the same manner, beginning from the back edges +and making the first line 1/2 in. from them, and then another line 1-1/8 +in. from the first, or the width of the slat. Make a line across the +ends, 1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and another +line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This will leave 2-1/2 in. and +4-1/2 in. of space respectively from the front edges of the 10-in. and +12-in. shelves. Shift the shelves so they will be even on the front +edges and mark them the same as the back. Make a 1/4-in. depth mark on +all edges between the lines and cut this material out. This can be done +while the shelves are clamped together. + +[Illustration: Stand Complete] + +[Illustration: Detail of Stand] + +Place the shelves on end in their order and start by screwing on the +back slats on both ends first, then screw on the two front slats. Turn +the stand down and put on the two back slats. Attach the two front slats +on the top shelf first. Then bore the places for the remaining holes and +turn in the screws. This will bend the slats into place. The two +remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the shelves without letting +them in, making the spaces equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the +bottom shelf and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart, sandpapered +and stained. + + + + +A TABOURET + + +The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman design as shown in +the accompanying illustration can be purchased from the mill ready cut +to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use +and it is also the easiest to secure. Order the following pieces: + + 4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long. + 1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square. + 4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in. + 4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in. + +First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at an angle of 30 deg. and +hollow out the lower part of the legs as shown in the detail sketch. +Clamp them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at +once. Cut the tenons on the rails to fit these mortises. Lay them out in +the same manner as the posts so as to get them all the same distance +between shoulders. The upper rails should be cut out underneath as +shown. + +[Illustration: Detail of Tabouret] + +The rails and posts can now be glued together. Be careful to get them +joined perfectly square. When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown. +This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws from the inside. +Remove all surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not +take where there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper and +remove all rough spots, then apply the finish you like best. + +[Illustration: Finished Tabouret] + +[Illustration: Complete Porch Swing] + + + + +A PORCH SWING + + +The porch swing shown in the illustration can be made of southern pine +at a very moderate cost. It should be suspended by rustless black chains +and eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions are desired +they can be made up quite cheaply of elastic felt covered with denim +cloth. + +These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought at the mill: + + 2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S. + 1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S. + 2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S. + 2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S. + 5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S. + 8 ft. flooring for bottom. + 2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S. + +Plane and square the ends of all the rails and posts. Lay out the lap +joints for the back rails and posts. Use a knife line for this and saw +exactly to the line to avoid trimming with the chisel. When sawing be +careful to cut exactly halfway through the thickness of each piece. In +the same way make the lap joints between the front rail and posts. Have +the two end rails exactly the same length and proceed to fasten the +front and back posts to them, using 4-in. lag screws and washers. Bore +through the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails for the +lag screws. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Porch Swing] + +The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails, or a 3/8-in. groove +may be planed in these rails, the entire distance between joints, to +receive the slats. A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm +rests lap over the back posts and are held to them with 2-in. +round-head screws. They may be fastened to the top of the front posts +with round-head screws or dowel pins. + +Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat, or 7/8-in. board may be +used if desired. Fasten the cleats, which support the seat, to the front +and back lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws. + +To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine, stain it brown or +black and finish with two coats of waterproof varnish. + + + + +A FOOT WARMER + + +This foot warmer is so constructed that two bricks may be heated and +placed inside of the stool. + +Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following pieces will be +needed: + + 4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S. + 4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S. + 1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in. + 4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in. + 1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge. + 2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks. + +The work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the +mortises for the rails. Tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit +in the mortises made in the posts. They are then glued together, care +being taken to get the stool perfectly square. + +The top frame can now be made and covered with the sheet of brass. The +frame has mitered corners and the inside of the frame must be even with +the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to the stool with the +two hinges on the back and the elbow catch on the front side to keep it +closed. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Foot Warmer] + +The design on the brass can be made by tacking it on a board, laying out +the design and piercing the background with some sharp-pointed tool. +This leaves the design raised with a smooth surface. + +The brass can now be removed from the board, placed on the frame and +fastened with the ornamental tacks. + +Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside of the rails with +asbestos; then place the bricks on the inside of the stool. Both should +fit up tight to the brass when the bottom is in place. + +[Illustration: Oak Stool with Brass Cover] + +The stool is now ready for the finish, which can be of some stain to +match the other furniture in the room where it is to be used. + + + + +A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM + + +This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood and finished to match +other pieces of furniture in the room, but as it is of mission design, +oak is the most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain so +nicely. + +The material required is as follows: + + 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S. + 1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S. + 2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S. + 2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S. + 2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S. + 4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S. + 2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S. + +[Illustration: Detail of Plate Rack] + +This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some allowance is made +for trimming on the edges and ends. + +Begin work by squaring up the posts to length and beveling the top ends, +then trim the back and side boards. These are nailed together, lapping +the back board over the side board. The posts are fastened with dowels +placed at equal distances apart. Hot glue is used in the joints. + +[Illustration: Dining-Room Plate Rack] + +The four shelves are now put in place. These are notched out to fit +around the posts and are nailed and glued. + +While the glue is hardening on these, the plate rails can be cut. These +have 7/8-in grooves near the front edge to receive the lower edge of the +plates when resting against the two strips placed 5 in. above the plate +rails and far enough back to prevent the plates from falling forward. + +The rails are fastened to the two sides with dowels, three at each end +being sufficient. The two strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces. +The top is then put on. This fits around the posts and rests on the +sides. Hooks on which to hang cups are placed under the rails. All parts +are thoroughly sandpapered before the stain is applied. + + + + +A MISSION SIDEBOARD + + +[Illustration: Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set] + +The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the armchair and side chair +with similar paneling design. Like these chairs the sideboard should be +made of hard wood and should be similarly finished. The drawer pulls, if +not made of wood, should be of such metal and design as to harmonize +with the mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines are +appropriate. + +Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made of some soft wood, such as +yellow poplar. The small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for +holding silverware. + +Obtain the following stock: + + 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S. + 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S. + 1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S. + 2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S. + 1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S. + 4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S. + 1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S. + 1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S. + 1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S. + 2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S. + 2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S. + 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar. + 4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar. + 4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar. + 3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar. + 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar. + 3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar. + 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar. + 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S. + 10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S. + 2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S. + Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock. + +A detailed description is hardly necessary for such a piece of work as +this. Anyone capable of building it, will know the order of the +different operations that are required in its construction. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Sideboard] + +It may be said that the two back panels at either side of the small +drawers may be filled with beveled plate glass instead of wood if one so +choose. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Folio 4: "Millplaned" changed to "Mill-planed" +Folio 34: Started new paragraph at "The bottom board...." +Added captions to Illustrations: +Folio 33: "Umbrella Stand" +Folio 34: "Detail of Umbrella Stand" +Folio 54" "Detail of Pedestal" + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. 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