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diff --git a/22700-tei/22700-tei.tei b/22700-tei/22700-tei.tei new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed0b12d --- /dev/null +++ b/22700-tei/22700-tei.tei @@ -0,0 +1,9866 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1" ?> + +<!DOCTYPE TEI.2 SYSTEM "http://www.gutenberg.org/tei/marcello/0.4/dtd/pgtei.dtd"> + +<TEI.2 lang="en"> +<teiHeader> + <fileDesc> + <titleStmt> + <title>Brittany & Its Byways</title> + <author><name reg="Bury Palliser, Fanny">Fanny Bury Palliser</name></author> + </titleStmt> + <editionStmt> + <edition n="02"> + Edition 02 + </edition> + </editionStmt> + <publicationStmt> + <publisher>Project Gutenberg</publisher> + <date value="2007-11-09">November 9, 2007</date> + <idno type="etext-no">22700</idno> + <availability> + <p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and + with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it + away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg + License online at www.gutenberg.org/license</p> + </availability> + </publicationStmt> + <sourceDesc><p>Bibliothèque Nationale de France/Gallica</p> + </sourceDesc> + </fileDesc> + <encodingDesc> + <classDecl> + <taxonomy id="lc"> + <bibl> + <title>Library of Congress Classification</title> + </bibl> + </taxonomy> + </classDecl> + </encodingDesc> + <profileDesc> + <langUsage> + <language id="en"></language> + <language id="fr"></language> + </langUsage> + <textClass> + <classCode scheme="lc">PR</classCode> + <keywords> + <list> + <item>Brittany</item> + <item>Travel</item> + </list> + </keywords> + </textClass> + </profileDesc> + <revisionDesc> + <change> + <date value="2007-11-09">>November 9, 2007</date> + <respStmt><name>Ralf Stephan</name></respStmt> + <item>Project Gutenberg TEI edition 02</item> + </change> + <change> + <date value="2007-11-09">November 9, 2007</date> + <respStmt><name>Ralf Stephan and The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr)</name></respStmt> + <item>Project Gutenberg TEI edition 01</item> + </change> + </revisionDesc> +</teiHeader> +<pgExtensions> + <pgStyleSheet> + .boxed { x-class: boxed } + .shaded { x-class: shaded } + .rules { x-class: rules; rules: all } + .indent { margin-left: 2 } + .right { margin-left: 16 } + .bold { font-weight: bold } + .italic { font-style: italic } + .small { margin-left: 2 } + .smallcaps { font-variant: small-caps } + .hsmallcaps { } <!-- FIXME PDF { font-variant: small-caps } --> + figure { text-align: center } + .w100 { } + .w75 { } + .w66 { } + .w50 { } + .w25 { } + @media pdf { + .w100 { width: 100% } + .w75 { width: 75% } + .w66 { width: 66% } + .w50 { width: 50% } + .w25 { width: 25% } + } + </pgStyleSheet> + <pgCharMap formats="txt.iso-8859-1"> + <char id="U0x2014"> + <charName>mdash</charName> + <desc>EM DASH</desc> + <mapping>--</mapping> + </char> + <char id="U0x2003"> + <charName>emsp</charName> + <desc>EM SPACE</desc> + <mapping> </mapping> + </char> + <char id="U0x2026"> + <charName>hellip</charName> + <desc>HORIZONTAL ELLIPSIS</desc> + <mapping>...</mapping> + </char> + </pgCharMap> + <pgCharMap formats="pdf"> + <char id="U0x0101"> + <charName>amacron</charName> + <desc>A WITH MACRON</desc> + <mapping>[=a]</mapping> + </char> + <char id="U0x0113"> + <charName>emacron</charName> + <desc>E WITH MACRON</desc> + <mapping>[=e]</mapping> + </char> + <char id="U0x012B"> + <charName>imacron</charName> + <desc>I WITH MACRON</desc> + <mapping>[=i]</mapping> + </char> + </pgCharMap> +</pgExtensions> +<text lang="en"> + <front> + <div> + <divGen type="pgheader" /> + </div> + + <div> + <divGen type="encodingDesc" /> + </div> + + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <divGen type="titlepage" /> + </div> + + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb n="I"/><anchor id="PgI"/> + <p rend="font-size: xx-large; text-align: center">BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS</p> + <p rend="text-align: center; smallcaps">some account of<lb/> + its inhabitants and its antiquities;<lb/> + during a residence in that country.</p> + <p rend="font-size: xx-large; text-align: center">BY MRS. BURY PALLISER</p> + <pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: Vignette: St. Michael's Mount]</p></then> + <else><p><figure rend="text-align: center; w50" url="images/image00.jpg"> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p></else></pgIf> + <p rend="text-align: center; smallcaps">with numerous illustrations</p> + <milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 25%" /> + <p rend="font-size: x-large; text-align: center">London</p> + <p rend="font-size: x-large; text-align: center">1869</p> + </div> + + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <index index="pdf" /> + <head>Contents</head> + <divGen type="toc" /> + </div> + + </front> + + <body> +<div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb n="III"/><anchor id="PgIII"/> +<index index="toc" /> +<index index="pdf" /> +<head rend="hsmallcaps">Contents.</head> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 20%" /> + + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Cherbourg</hi>—Mont du Roule—Visit of Queen Victoria—Harbour, +<ref target="Pg001">1</ref>—Breakwater—Dock-Yard, <ref target="Pg002">2</ref>—Chantereyne—Hôpital +de la Marine, <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>—Castle—Statue of Napoleon I.—Library—Church +of La Trinité, <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>—Environs—Octeville, +<ref target="Pg005">5</ref>—Lace-school of the Sœurs de la Providence, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Querqueville</hi>—Church of St. Germain, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>—Château of the +Comte de Tocqueville, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Tourlaville</hi>—Château, <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>—Crêpes, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Martinvast</hi>—Château, <ref target="Pg012">12</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Bricquebec</hi>—Castle—History, <ref target="Pg012">12</ref>—Valognes, <ref target="Pg014">14</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Sauveur</hi>-le-Vicomte—Demesne—History, <ref target="Pg015">15</ref>—Castle—Convent—Abbey, <ref target="Pg016">16</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Périers</hi>, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>—La Haye-du-Puits, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>—Abbey of Lessay—Mode +of Washing—Inn-signs, <ref target="Pg018">18</ref>—Church, <ref target="Pg019">19</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Coutances</hi>—Cathedral—Churches, <ref target="Pg019">19</ref>—Fête of St. Fiacre, <ref target="Pg020">20</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Granville</hi>—Situation—History—Church, <ref target="Pg021">21</ref>—View from the +"Roc"—Bathing-machines—Defeat of the Vendean army—Death +of La Rochejacquelin, <ref target="Pg022">22</ref>—Costume of the Women—Environs—St. +Pair, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Avranches</hi>—Extensive View—Scene of Absolution of Henry II.—Cemetery, +<ref target="Pg024">24</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pontorson</hi>—Story of the Lady Typhaine, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>—Government by +Du Guesclin—Mont St. Michel, <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>—Chapel of St. Aubert—Visits +of English kings—Pilgrimages of Kings of France, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>—Convent +of "La Merveille," <ref target="Pg027">27</ref>—Isle of La Tombeleine—Prison, +<ref target="Pg028">28</ref>—The Iron Cage, <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Dol-de-Bretagne</hi>—Street Architecture, <ref target="Pg030">30</ref>—Cathedral, <ref target="Pg031">31</ref>—Tomb +of Bishop James—Chapel of St. Samson, <ref target="Pg032">32</ref>—Monks, +<ref target="Pg033">33</ref>—Dyke, <ref target="Pg034">34</ref>—Menhir, <ref target="Pg035">35</ref>—Château of Combourg, <ref target="Pg036">36</ref>—Chateaubriand, +<ref target="Pg037">37</ref>.</p> + +<pb n="IV"/><anchor id="PgIV"/> +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Cancale</hi>—Oysters, <ref target="Pg037">37</ref>—Wretched public vehicles, <ref target="Pg038">38</ref>—Bay, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Malo</hi>—Situation, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>—Sea-wall, <ref target="Pg040">40</ref>—Tomb of Chateaubriand—Memorials +of him, <ref target="Pg041">41</ref>—Watch-dogs, <ref target="Pg042">42</ref>—Castle—History, +<ref target="Pg043">43</ref>—<hi rend="smallcaps">Dinard</hi>, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Dinan</hi>—Ascent of the Rance—Statue of Du Guesclin, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>—Siege +of 1359—Duel of Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorbéry, +<ref target="Pg045">45</ref>—Castle of Montfilant—Story of Gilles de Bretagne, +<ref target="Pg046">46</ref>—Lunatic Asylum—Castle of Dinan, <ref target="Pg050">50</ref>—Church of +St. Sauveur, <ref target="Pg051">51</ref>—Museum, <ref target="Pg052">52</ref>—Environs—Château of La +Bellière, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref>—Château of La Garaye—Count Claude de la +Garaye and his Wife, <ref target="Pg057">57</ref>—Jugon, <ref target="Pg061">61</ref>—Castle of La Hunaudaye, +<ref target="Pg062">62</ref>—Legend of La Hunaudaye, <ref target="Pg063">63</ref>—Forest of La +Hunaudaye—The Chouan War, <ref target="Pg066">66</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Lamballe</hi>—Jeanne la Boiteuse—War of Succession, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>—Temple +of Lanleff, <ref target="Pg068">68</ref>—Tradition of the blood-spots, <ref target="Pg070">70</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Brieuc</hi>—Palais de Justice—Tour de Cesson, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>—Church +of Notre Dame—Review of his army by James II. of England, +<ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Guingamp</hi>—Situation—Fishing in the Trieux—Sanctuary of +Notre Dame du Bon Secours—"Frérie blanche," <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>—Fountain +of Duke Peter—Women of Guingamp—Knitting and +spinning—Ransom for Du Guesclin, <ref target="Pg074">74</ref>—Chapel of St. +Leonard patron saint of prisoners—Curious charms against +fever, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Paimpol</hi>—Château de Boisgelin, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>—Abbey of Beauport, <ref target="Pg076">76</ref>—Situation +of Paimpol—Suspension-bridge of Lézardrieux, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>—Château +of La Roche Jagu, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pontrieux</hi>—Castle of La Roche Derrien, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>—"War of the two +Jeannes"—Church of Langoat—Monument of Ste. Pompée, +<ref target="Pg083">83</ref>—Burial customs—Excellence of roads in Brittany, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Kermartin</hi>—St. Ives, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>—Inscription at his birthplace—Interior +of a Breton dwelling, <ref target="Pg086">86</ref>—Church of Minihy-Tréguier—Will +of St. Ives, <ref target="Pg087">87</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Tréguier</hi>—Cathedral—Burial-place of St. Ives, <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>—Constable +Clisson, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>—Cemetery, <ref target="Pg090">90</ref>—Skull-boxes, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Lannion</hi>—Difficulty of the road, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>—Perros Guirec—Ploumanach—Roche +Pendue, <ref target="Pg092">92</ref>—Situation of Lannion—Fishery—Sea-weed +gathering, <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>—Castle of Touquédec, <ref target="Pg095">95</ref>—Château +of Kergrist, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>.</p> + +<pb n="V"/><anchor id="PgV"/> +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Morlaix</hi>—Situation—Timbered houses, <ref target="Pg097">97</ref>—History, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>—Breton +characteristics, <ref target="Pg099">99</ref>—Protestant Missions, <ref target="Pg100">100</ref>—"Fontaine +des Anglais," <ref target="Pg102">102</ref>—River Scenery, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Pol de Léon</hi>, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>—Religious Monuments—Character of the +Léonnais, <ref target="Pg104">104</ref>—Church of Notre Dame de Creizker—Legend of +St. Génévroc, <ref target="Pg105">105</ref>—Cathedral, <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>—St. Pol and the Dragon, +<ref target="Pg109">109</ref>—Ursuline Convent—"Droit de Motte," <ref target="Pg110">110</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Roscoff</hi>—Contraband trade with England—Vegetable produce, +<ref target="Pg111">111</ref>—Historic importance, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>—Church—Island of Batz—Enormous +old fig-tree, <ref target="Pg113">113</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Thégonnec Station</hi>—Cabaret—Church, <ref target="Pg114">114</ref>—Guimiliau +Church—Sculptures, <ref target="Pg115">115</ref>—Calvary, <ref target="Pg116">116</ref>—Buckwheat, <ref target="Pg117">117</ref>—Castle +and Church of La Roche Maurice, <ref target="Pg118">118</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Brest</hi>—Situation, <ref target="Pg118">118</ref>—Harbour, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>—Church of the Folgoët—Legend, +<ref target="Pg120">120</ref>—Kersanton stone, <ref target="Pg122">122</ref>—Sculptures in Kersanton +stone, <ref target="Pg123">123</ref>—The Fool's Well, <ref target="Pg124">124</ref>—Exterior of Church, +<ref target="Pg125">125</ref>—Churchyard, <ref target="Pg127">127</ref>—Monthly Fair of Brest—Peasants' +Costumes, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Finistère</hi>—Abbey of St. Mathieu, <ref target="Pg129">129</ref>—Sea-fights, <ref target="Pg130">130</ref>—Pont +Launay and Châteaulin, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Quimper</hi>, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>—Legend of St. Corentin, <ref target="Pg137">137</ref>—Cathedral, <ref target="Pg139">139</ref>—National +costume, <ref target="Pg140">140</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Concarneau</hi>, <ref target="Pg142">142</ref>—Sardine Fishery, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>—Aquarium, <ref target="Pg147">147</ref>—Dolmen +and Rocking-stone of Trégunc—Château of Rustéphan, +<ref target="Pg149">149</ref>—Valley of Pontaven, <ref target="Pg150">150</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Quimperlé</hi>—Fishing, <ref target="Pg151">151</ref>—Buildings—Tomb of St. Gurloës, +<ref target="Pg152">152</ref>—Tomb of John de Montfort—Ruins of St. Columban, +<ref target="Pg153">153</ref>—Dirtiness of the Bretons—Animals and Farm produce—Butter +Indulgence, <ref target="Pg154">154</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Lorient</hi>—Bisson and the Pirates, <ref target="Pg155">155</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Hennebont</hi>—Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, <ref target="Pg156">156</ref>—Church +of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, <ref target="Pg157">157</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Ste. Anne D'auray</hi>, <ref target="Pg158">158</ref>—Scala Sancta—Fête, <ref target="Pg159">159</ref>—Chartreuse, +<ref target="Pg160">160</ref>—Battle, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>—Deaf and Dumb School, <ref target="Pg164">164</ref>—Massacre +of Quiberon, <ref target="Pg165">165</ref>—Champ des Martyrs, <ref target="Pg168">168</ref>—Celtic +Remains, <ref target="Pg169">169</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Locmariaker</hi>—Tumulus—Celtic and other Remains, <ref target="Pg170">170</ref>—Tumulus +of Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg175">175</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Carnac</hi>—Celtic Remains—Menhirs of Kermario, <ref target="Pg177">177</ref>—Legend +of St. Cornély, <ref target="Pg178">178</ref>—Jade Celts, &c., at Plouharnel, <ref target="Pg180">180</ref>—Dolmen +of Concorro, <ref target="Pg181">181</ref>.</p> + +<pb n="VI"/><anchor id="PgVI"/> +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Vannes</hi>—History—Promenade, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>—Cathedral, <ref target="Pg184">184</ref>—Château +Gaillau—Tour du Connétable, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>—Model Village of Korner-hoët, +<ref target="Pg187">187</ref>—Peninsula of Rhuys, <ref target="Pg188">188</ref>—Fortress of Sucinio, +<ref target="Pg189">189</ref>—Abbey of St. Gildas, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>—Abelard and the Breton +Monks, <ref target="Pg193">193</ref>—The Breton "Blue Beard," <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>—Butte d'Arzon—Castle +of Elven, <ref target="Pg199">199</ref>—Growth of Chestnuts, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Ploërmel</hi>, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>—Church, <ref target="Pg204">204</ref>—Tombs, <ref target="Pg205">205</ref>—Column of the +Thirty, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref>—Battle of the Thirty, <ref target="Pg207">207</ref>—Château of Josselin, +<ref target="Pg209">209</ref>—Church of Josselin, <ref target="Pg213">213</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Montfort-sur-mer</hi>—Forest of Paimpont—Fairy tales, <ref target="Pg215">215</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Rennes</hi>, ancient capital of Brittany—Entry of Henry IV.—Scenery +of the Loire, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>—Castle of Champtoceaux, <ref target="Pg218">218</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Nantes</hi>—Cathedral, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>—Tombs, <ref target="Pg222">222</ref>—Castle—Anne of Brittany, +<ref target="Pg223">223</ref>—Promenades and Boulevards—Museum, <ref target="Pg227">227</ref>—Jardin +des Plantes—Descent of the Loire—The Noyades, <ref target="Pg228">228</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Nazaire</hi>—Historical associations, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>—Le Croisic, +<ref target="Pg232">232</ref>—Salt-pans, <ref target="Pg233">233</ref>—Costume of the Paludiers, <ref target="Pg234">234</ref>—Saulniers—Chouan: +origin of the name and of the War, <ref target="Pg241">241</ref>—Church +of Batz, <ref target="Pg243">243</ref>—Situation of Le Croisic, <ref target="Pg244">244</ref>—Chapel of St. +Goustan, <ref target="Pg245">245</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Guérande</hi>—Church of St Aubin—Chapel of Notre Dame +Blanche, <ref target="Pg246">246</ref>—La Roche Bernard, <ref target="Pg247">247</ref>—Wedding Festivities, +<ref target="Pg248">248</ref>—National Music—Female Costume—Fête de la Vierge +and of the Emperor, <ref target="Pg249">249</ref>—Scenery of the River Loch, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Belle Isle</hi>—Le Palais—M. Trochu's Model Farm, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>—Breton +fatalism, <ref target="Pg252">252</ref>—Grotte du Port Coton, <ref target="Pg255">255</ref>—Historical associations +of Belle Isle, <ref target="Pg256">256</ref>—Fishery, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pont L'abbé</hi>, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>—Costumes, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref>—Church, <ref target="Pg259">259</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Loctudy</hi>—Romanesque Church, <ref target="Pg261">261</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Torche de Penmarch</hi>, <ref target="Pg262">262</ref>—Church of St. Guenolé, <ref target="Pg263">263</ref>—"Le +filet saint"—Ruins of the old Town, <ref target="Pg264">264</ref>—Fontenelle +the Leaguer, <ref target="Pg267">267</ref>—Church of St. Nonna, <ref target="Pg268">268</ref>—Menhirs at +Kerscaven, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Audierne</hi>—Lighthouse—Bathing-machines, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>—Town, <ref target="Pg270">270</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pointe Du Raz</hi>—Popular superstitions—Church of St. Collédoc, +<ref target="Pg271">271</ref>—"Enfer de Plogoff"—Island of Sein—Druidesses, +<ref target="Pg272">272</ref>—Dangerous passage, <ref target="Pg273">273</ref>—Baie des Trépassés—Submerged +city of Is, <ref target="Pg274">274</ref>—Legend of King Gradlon and his +daughter Dahut, <ref target="Pg275">275</ref>.</p> + +<pb n="VII"/><anchor id="PgVII"/> +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Douarnenez</hi>—Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, <ref target="Pg276">276</ref>—Chapel +of Notre Dame de Comfort—Wheel of Sacring-Bells—Town +of Douarnenez, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>—Pardon of Ste. Anne-de-la-Palue, <ref target="Pg280">280</ref>—Costume, +<ref target="Pg281">281</ref>—Church of Ste. Anne—Procession, <ref target="Pg282">282</ref>—Holy +Well of Ste. Anne, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Scaër</hi>—Old Customs and Superstitions, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>—Wrestling—"Pierres +de Croix," <ref target="Pg286">286</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Le Faouét</hi>—Chapel of St. Barbe, <ref target="Pg287">287</ref>—Wedding ceremonies +and amusements, <ref target="Pg288">288</ref>—Fishing, <ref target="Pg289">289</ref>—Old Breton superstitious +still prevalent—Lavandières de la Nuit, <ref target="Pg290">290</ref>—Church of +St. Fiacre—Elaborately carved Rood-screen, <ref target="Pg293">293</ref>—Painted +glass—Ruined Castle of Poncallec—Plot of Cellamare, <ref target="Pg294">294</ref>—Montagnes +Noires, <ref target="Pg296">296</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Carhaix</hi>—Situation, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>—Statue of La Tour d'Auvergne, <ref target="Pg298">298</ref>—Fair +and Market—Church of St. Tremeur—Skull-boxes, <ref target="Pg299">299</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Huelgoat</hi>, <ref target="Pg300">300</ref>—Lead-mines, <ref target="Pg301">301</ref>—Cascade of St. Herbot—Chapel +of St. Herbot, <ref target="Pg303">303</ref>—His tomb, <ref target="Pg304">304</ref>—Patron of cattle—Offerings +of horsehair and cows' tails, <ref target="Pg304">304</ref>—Homeward +journey, <ref target="Pg307">307</ref>.</p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Useful Dates</hi> in the History of Brittany <ref target="Pg309">309</ref></p> + +<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Chronological Table</hi> of the Dukes of Brittany <ref target="Pg310">310</ref></p> +</div> +<div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <index index="pdf" /> + <index index="toc" /> + <head rend="hsmallcaps">List of Illustrations.</head> + + <lg rend="indent"> +<l><hi rend="smallcaps">Vignette</hi>—St. Michael's Mount, <ref target="PgI">Title-page</ref>.</l> +<l>1. Querqueville Church, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref></l> +<l>2. Plan of Querqueville Church, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref></l> +<l>3. Château of Tourlaville, <ref target="Pg009">9</ref></l> +<l>4. Castle of Bricquebec, <ref target="Pg013">13</ref></l> +<l>5. Badge of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref></l> +<l>6. Coutances Cathedral, <ref target="Pg020">20</ref></l> +<l>7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, <ref target="Pg031">31</ref></l> +<l>8. Front of the Tomb, <ref target="Pg032">32</ref></l> +<l>9. Menhir, near Dol, <ref target="Pg035">35</ref></l> +<l>10. Château of Combourg, <ref target="Pg037">37</ref></l> +<l>11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, <ref target="Pg038">38</ref></l> +<l>12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand's Tomb, <ref target="Pg040">40</ref></l> +<l>13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, <ref target="Pg052">52</ref></l> +<l>14. Château of La Bellière, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref></l> +<l>15. Chimney, Château of La Bellière, <ref target="Pg056">56</ref></l> +<l>16. Château of La Garaye, <ref target="Pg060">60</ref></l> +<l>17. Section of Lanleff Church, <ref target="Pg069">69</ref></l> +<l>18. Plan of Lanleff Church, <ref target="Pg070">70</ref></l> +<l>19. Fountain of Duke Peter, <ref target="Pg073">73</ref></l> +<l>20. Abbey of Beauport, <ref target="Pg077">77</ref></l> +<l>21. Skull-box, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref></l> +<l>22. The <corr sic="Creisker">Creizker</corr>, <ref target="Pg107">107</ref></l> +<l>23. Calvary, Guimiliau, <ref target="Pg116">116</ref></l> +<l>24. The Fool's Well, Folgoët, <ref target="Pg124">124</ref></l> +<l>25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, <ref target="Pg131">131</ref></l> +<l>26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref></l> +<l>27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref></l> +<l>28. Begger, Quimper, <ref target="Pg141">141</ref></l> +<l>29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref></l> +<l>30. Dolmen, Trégunc, <ref target="Pg146">146</ref></l> +<l>31. Rocking-Stone, Trégunc, <ref target="Pg148">148</ref></l> +<l>32. Château of Rustéphan, <ref target="Pg150">150</ref></l> +<l>33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d'Auray, <ref target="Pg159">159</ref></l> +<l>34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, <ref target="Pg169">169</ref></l> +<l>35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, <ref target="Pg171">171</ref></l> +<l>36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, <ref target="Pg173">173</ref></l> +<l>37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg175">175</ref></l> +<l>38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg176">176</ref></l> +<l>40. Dolmen of Corcorro, <ref target="Pg182">182</ref></l> +<l>41. Castle of Elven, <ref target="Pg200">200</ref></l> +<l>42. Column of the Thirty, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref></l> +<l>43. Château of Josselin, <ref target="Pg212">212</ref></l> +<l>44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, <ref target="Pg235">235</ref></l> +<l>45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, <ref target="Pg237">237</ref></l> +<l>46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, <ref target="Pg239">239</ref></l> +<l>47. La Roche Bernard, <ref target="Pg247">247</ref></l> +<l>48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, <ref target="Pg253">253</ref></l> +<l>49. Device of Fouquet, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref></l> +<l>50. Peasant Girl, Pont l'Abbé, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref></l> +<l>51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, <ref target="Pg260">260</ref></l> +<l>52. Torche of Penmarch, <ref target="Pg262">262</ref></l> +<l>53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch, <ref target="Pg264">264</ref></l> +<l>54. Church of Guenolé, Penmarch, <ref target="Pg265">265</ref></l> +<l>55. Fleur-de-lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref></l> +<l>56. Pointe du Raz, <ref target="Pg270">270</ref></l> +<l>57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, <ref target="Pg277">277</ref></l> +<l>58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref></l> +<l>59. Costume of a Finistère Bride, <ref target="Pg281">281</ref></l> +<l>60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, <ref target="Pg284">284</ref></l> +<l>61. Cross Stones, <ref target="Pg286">286</ref></l> +<l>62. Rood-screen or Jubé, St. Fiacre, <ref target="Pg291">291</ref></l> +<l>63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, <ref target="Pg304">304</ref></l> +<l>64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, <ref target="Pg305">305</ref></l> +</lg> +</div> +<div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb n="001"/><anchor id="Pg001"/> +<index index="toc" /> +<index index="pdf" /> +<head rend="hsmallcaps">Britanny and Its Byways.</head> +<p>A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole +to Cherbourg. It was dusk when we entered the +harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing +its beauty until the following morning, when we +ascended a height behind the town, called the Mont +du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by carriage, +the Emperor having ordered a road to be +made up to the fort which crowns the heights, on the +occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in 1858, of her +Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were +immediately set to work, and, in a few days, an +easy carriage-road was finished, up which the Emperor +drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace. +The view from the fort is lovely, commanding the +whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin, +from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to +Barfleur. The water of the harbour, owing to its +great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we +quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in +likening to that of the Bay of Naples. Across its +entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of +the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet +of our yacht squadron, which the day before had +<pb n="002"/><anchor id="Pg002"/> +run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We +took a boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded +at each end by a fort, with another in the +centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy +weather the sea washes over the breakwater, and +sometimes for days prevents all communication +between the forts, and the supplies consequently are +stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells +of the Venus' ear, which inhabits the rocks of the +breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the fish-market +exposed for sale, and, on expressing some +curiosity as to how they were eaten, the landlord +had a dish prepared for us. These fish resemble +the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require +a great deal of beating with a wooden mallet to +make them tender enough to eat. They are called +"ormer," or "gofish." The table d'hôte was very +plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout +Normandy and Brittany, cider, the customary +beverage of the country, was always placed upon +the table. It varies very much in quality in different +districts; that of Bayeux is most esteemed.</p> +<p>The next morning we set out for the dockyard. +To obtain admission, it first requires a letter from +the English Consul, who lives in a charming spot +overlooking the sea, at the foot of the Montagne +du Roule. Furnished with this, we repaired to the +Préfet Maritime, who gave us an order to be presented +<pb n="003"/><anchor id="Pg003"/> +at the dockyard gate, where it was countersigned, +and a guide appointed to show us over the +establishment. We made the tour round all the +basins and workshops, and saw the canot impérial +used by the Emperor on the visit of our Queen,—a +most elegant boat, beautifully carved with marine +subjects. The model of a Roman trireme, or galley, +is in one of the basins, and in the little museum, +or Salle des Modèles, are the two flagstones that +covered the grave of Napoleon, and were deposited +here by the Prince de Joinville, when he returned +with the Emperor's remains from St. Helena. The +dockyard partly stands on a spot called Chantereyne. +The Empress Matilda, fleeing from Stephen, was +overtaken by a tempest when making for Cherbourg, +and vowed, if her life were spared, to build a church. +The ship was in jeopardy, but the pilot cheered +her spirits, and, when gaining the port, exclaimed, +"Chantes Reine! we are safe in harbour." The +place where she landed has always retained the +name; and here the Empress, in fulfilment of her +vow, founded an abbey, which was destroyed in the +Revolution. The habitations of the nuns is the +present provisional Hôpital de la Marine; a new one, +containing above a thousand beds, being in course +of construction, and a modern church, called Eglise +du Vœu, has been erected in another part of the +town in place of that of the Empress Matilda.</p> +<pb n="004"/><anchor id="Pg004"/> +<p>Henry II. held his court in the castle with his +empress-mother in great splendour; it had formerly +been tenanted by Duke William of Normandy before +his invasion of England, and, within its enclosure, +he built a church also, in consequence of a +vow made during a serious illness. There are few +objects of interest in the town of Cherbourg. The +women all wear the large Normandy cap. In the +Place d'Armes is a bronze equestrian statue of the +Emperor Napoleon I., and on the pedestal is inscribed +"J'avois résolu de renouveler à Cherbourg +les merveilles de l'Egypte." In the Library is a +curiously sculptured chimney-piece of the fifteenth +century, coloured and gilt, removed from a room of +the abbey. The principal church, La Trinité, is a +strange jumble of architecture. There is some beautiful +tracery in the windows, and a fine boss (clef pendante) +in the south porch, now restored. On a board +in the church is an inscription, setting forth it was +built in consequence of a "vœu solennel des habitans +de Cherbourg en 1450 de la délivrance de la domination +étrangère"—that is, from the English, whose defeat +the same year at Formigny, by the Constable de +Richemont, expelled them for ever from Normandy.</p> +<p>There is much to see in the environs of Cherbourg, +which makes it a good central point for +excursions. We drove by the fort of Octeville, +where a magnificent panoramic view is obtained, +<pb n="005"/><anchor id="Pg005"/> +equalling in extent that from the Mont du Roule. +A fisherman, who was standing by, told us the +names of the numerous forts that bristle in every +direction, and related to us the legend of the monk +of Saire, who, having received the rent due to his +father for some land, appropriated the money to his +own use, and, on the tenant declaring he had paid +the sum, adjured the evil one to carry him off, if he +had ever received the money. The words were no +sooner uttered than there came a flash of lightning, +and the monk vanished: but he still appears in the +roads of Cherbourg floating on the sea; when he sees +a sailor, he cries "Save me, save me! I am about +to sink!" but the hapless being who approaches to +assist him is immediately dragged into the water, a +peal of infernal laughter is heard, and the luckless +mariner disappears for ever. We asked our guide if +he believed in the phantom monk, but he was silent.</p> + <pgIf output="txt"> + <then> + <p>[Illustration: 1. Querqueville Church.]</p> + </then> + <else> + <p> + <figure rend="w50" url="images/image01.jpg"> + <head>1. Querqueville Church.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure> + </p> + </else> + </pgIf> +<p>From Octeville we proceeded to Querqueville, +where, in the same churchyard as the parochial +church, stands a little church, named after St. Germain, +the first apostle of the Cotentin, who, in the +fifth century, landed from England on the coast of +La Hogue, and preached Christianity in this district +and the valley traversed by the river Saire, which +falls into the sea near St. Vaast-la-Hogue. This +tiny church, for it measures only 34 feet by 24, and +is 11 feet high, is by some supposed to have been a +<pb n="006"/><anchor id="Pg006"/> +temple of the Gauls converted into a Christian place +of worship; the nave and tower having been added to +the old temple, which consists of a triple apse forming +a regular trefoil, each of +which has a domed top. +We drove on to Nacqueville, +the château of Comte +Hippolyte de Tocqueville. +The park is prettily laid +out, a stream of water runs +in front of the house, and +a row of blue hydrangeas +blazed forth in great beauty, with the relief of a +background of dark firs. Time prevented us from +pursuing our excursion further west, to see the +famed cliffs of Jobourg.</p> +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 2. Plan of Querqueville Church.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image02.jpg"> + <head>2. Plan of <lb />Querqueville Church.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<pb n="007"/><anchor id="Pg007"/> + +<p>To the east of Cherbourg a high road leads to +Barfleur and the lighthouse of Gatteville, between +which and the Isle of Wight is the narrowest point +of the English Channel, passing by Saint-Pierre-Eglise, +near which is the château of the late Alexis de +Tocqueville, author of 'Democracy in America;' but +we did not get further on the road than Tourlaville, +the ancient château of the Ravalet family, upon +whom tradition has heaped every crime imaginable. +One seigneur entered the church with his hounds +and stabbed the priest at the altar, because he refused +to administer to him the consecrated element; another +hanged some of his vassals, because they did +not grind their corn at the seignorial mill, for +"haute or basse justice" was then among the nobles' +rights. Marguerite, a daughter of this ancient house, +expiated, with her brother, their offences upon the +scaffold at Paris. Every effort was made to spare +their lives; but the King, or rather Queen Margot, +was inexorable. The château of Tourlaville is beautifully +situated; it is in the style of the Renaissance, +with an angular tower, which <corr sic="recals">recalls</corr> that of Heidelberg +Castle. The ground-floor consists of two large +unfurnished rooms, and a staircase, with iron railing, +leads to the story above. In one room hangs the +portrait of a lady châteleine, in the costume of the +period of Louis XIII., with the château of Tourlaville +in the distance. On her left are eight Cupids +<pb n="008"/><anchor id="Pg008"/> +with bandages over their eyes, one in advance of the +others is not blinded. From the lady's mouth is +a label, with the inscription "Un (seul) me suffit." +This is said to be the portrait of the Lady Marguerite, +but the costume is of a later date. In one +of the rooms is a chimney-piece covered with a +variety of amatory devices and mottoes:—a Cupid +blinded, holding a lighted torch, motto "Ce qui me +donne la vie me cause la mort." Again, another +Cupid with eyes bandaged, pouring water out of a +vase to cool a flaming heart he holds in his hand, +motto "Sa froideur me glace les veines et son ardeur +brûle mon cœur." Six winged hearts flying at the +approach of Cupid, but which are reached by his +darts, "Même en fuyant l'on est pris." Further is +a sentiment in verse:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Plusieurs sont atteints de ce feu,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Mais il ne s'en guérit que fort peu.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Again,—</p> + +<p rend="display"><q>Ces deux n'en font qu'un.</q></p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 3. Château of Tourlaville.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image03.jpg"> + <head>3. Château of Tourlaville.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + + +<p>A river in the foreground, in the distance a setting +sun, motto "Ainsi puissai-je mourir." This assemblage +of devices and mottoes is not applicable to +any particular individual, but may be supposed to +be merely an expression of the taste of the time. +They are of the seventeenth century, when the +Ravalet had been succeeded by the Franquetot +family, who have since taken the name of Coigny. +<pb n="009"/><anchor id="Pg009"/> +<pb n="010"/><anchor id="Pg010"/> +<pb n="011"/><anchor id="Pg011"/> +Their arms, with several others, are in the little +boudoir in one of the towers, called the Blue Chamber. +Its walls are distempered blue, and the coverlet +and hangings of the bed, with all the decorations of +the room, are of the same colour. Having admired +the lovely view from the "Tour des quatre vents," +we descended to the kitchen of the farmer who rents +the house, which now belongs to the Tocqueville +family. His wife was busily employed in making +"crêpes," a favourite kind of cake in Normandy +and Brittany. It is made generally of the flour +of the sarrasin or buckwheat, mixed with milk or +water, and spread into a kind of pancake, which is +fried on an iron pan, resembling the Scotch griddle-cakes. +Another variety, called "galette," is made +of the same ingredients, but differs from the crêpe +in its being made three or four times the thickness, +and is therefore not so light. Though generally +made of buckwheat, wheat or oat-flour is sometimes +used; and in the towns, sugar and cinnamon and +vanilla are added, and the simple character of the +crêpe entirely changed under the hands of the confectioner. +The little village of Tourlaville was +famous for its glassworks, until supplanted by those +of Gobain.</p> + +<p>On our return to Cherbourg we visited the lace +school of the Sœurs de la Providence, where about +two hundred girls are employed in making black +<pb n="012"/><anchor id="Pg012"/> +lace like that of Bayeux, which has now completely +superseded the Chantilly; the manner of making +both laces is similar. The old Chantilly has completely +died out, and the modern manufacture extends +the whole length of Normandy from Cherbourg +to Bayeux. How the children can keep the +bobbins from entangling is a marvel; there were +as many as five hundred on one pillow. The lace-makers +were chiefly employed in flounces, shawls, +and other large works. These are all made in separate +pieces, and united by the stitch called fine +joining or "raboutissage." A half-shawl or "pointe" +was divided into thirty segments. We passed the +evening at the Etablissement, and next morning left +Cherbourg.</p> + +<p>The railway traverses the picturesque and rocky +valley of Quincampoix to Martinvast, whose little +Romanesque church stands close to the station, and +at a short distance is the château of Martinvast, +where its late proprietor, M. du Moncel, established +a model farm. A monument has been erected to +his memory in the church by the commune of +Martinvast.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 4. Castle of Bricquebec.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image04.jpg"> + <head>4. Castle of Bricquebec.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + + +<p>At Sottevast we took the omnibus for Bricquebec, +which lies nearly five miles from the station. Its +ruined castle, dating from the end of the fourteenth +century, with its lofty octagonal donjon, nearly a +hundred feet high, standing on a high "motte" or +<pb n="013"/><anchor id="Pg013"/> +artificial mound, has a most imposing appearance. +Bricquebec, the most considerable demesne of the +Cotentins, was taken by King Henry V. from the +Sire d'Estouteville, who had so gallantly defended +Mont St. Michel against him. Henry gave Bricquebec +to William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, the ill-fated +favourite of Queen Margaret of Anjou, and +he, on being taken prisoner by the French, sold it, +<pb n="014"/><anchor id="Pg014"/> +to raise the money for his ransom, to Sir Bertie +Entwistle, who fought at Agincourt, and who held +it till the battle of Formigny expelled the English +from Normandy, and Sir Bertie fell at St. Albans in +the Lancastrian cause. The inn, "Hôtel du Vieux +Château," is within the enclosure of the ruins—a +most dilapidated old place; our dirty ill-furnished +room next to a hayloft, the horses passing through +the house to the stable, and every kind of litter and +rubbish accumulated under the windows. Yet in +the room we occupied had once slept our gracious +Sovereign Queen Victoria. On a placard is inscribed, +"Chambre de la famille royale d'Angleterre, +18 Août 1857;" and below stairs is another, setting +forth, "S. M. la Reine d'Angleterre, le Prince +Albert, les Princesses Royale et Alice, le Prince +Alfred, sont descendus à l'hôtel du Vieux Château le +10 Août 1857." About a mile from Bricquebec is +a Trappist convent; but we were not allowed admission +beyond the parlour, where is sold a quantity of +cutlery, not made—as we were given to understand +when offered for sale—by the monks.</p> + +<p>Regaining the railroad, we went on to Valognes, +which has been styled the St. Germain of Normandy; +a dull town, with worn-out houses, occupied +by worn-out aristocratic families. The grass grows +in the streets.</p> + +<p>Here we left the rail and proceeded to Saint +<pb n="015"/><anchor id="Pg015"/> +Sauveur-le-Vicomte. On entering the town, the +castle is on the right of the road, the Abbey church +on the left. The large demesne of Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte +passed by marriage into the Harcourt +family, and belonged, in the time of Edward III., +to Geoffrey d'Harcourt, whose fortress was one of +the most formidable in Normandy. Banished from +France, he went over to England and persuaded +Edward III. to make a descent upon Normandy +instead of Gascony, assuring him he would find rich +towns and fair castles without any means of defence, +and that his people would gain wealth enough to +suffice them for twenty years to come. The King +landed at La Hogue, or Saint Vaast-la-Hogue, as it +is now called, where he knighted the Prince of Wales +and made Warwick and Harcourt marshals of his +army. They advanced in three divisions—the King +and the Prince in the centre, the two marshals on +the right and left—ravaging all before them, and +not stopping in their victorious course till the great +victory at Crecy. Harcourt subsequently met a +traitor's fate. A force was sent against him, his army +was routed, and, preferring death to being taken, he +fought most valiantly until he was struck to the +ground by French lances, when some men-at-arms +dispatched him with their swords. He had sold the +reversion of his castle to King Edward III., to whom +it was confirmed by the treaty of Bretigny. Edward +<pb n="016"/><anchor id="Pg016"/> +bestowed the barony upon that pride of English +chivalry, Sir John Chandos, in recompense for his +great services in the wars. The square donjon and +inner gate were built by Chandos. The castle is +well preserved, and is now used as a hospice for +orphans and aged women. The rooms are kept +beautifully clean, and on a tablet in one of the corridors +is written up "Dortoirs restaurés par la munificence +de M. le Comte Georges d'Harcourt en +mémoire de ses illustres ayeux, anciens Seigneurs de +ce château, en 1838."</p> + +<p>The Benedictine convent also belonged to the +Harcourts until the revolt of Geoffrey. It is now the +property of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, who have +rebuilt the fine Abbey church according to its former +model. Originally built in the eleventh century, it +was partly burnt in the fourteenth, and reconstructed +in the fifteenth. The columns and arches of the +nave are of the first period; the form of the church +is a Latin cross, having an apse ornamented with a +double row of lancet windows, richly sculptured. +The sculptures are all executed by an untaught +workman of the place, who died before he had completed +the pulpit. To collect the funds necessary for +the undertaking, the foundress travelled throughout +Europe. Her tomb is in the church. "Julie +Françoise Catherine Postel, née à Barfleur, 1756. +Sœur Marie Madelaine, Fondatrice et première Superieure +<pb n="017"/><anchor id="Pg017"/> +Générale de l'Institut des Ecoles Chrétiennes +de la Miséricorde, morte en odeur de Sainteté +16 Juillet 1846, à l'Abbaye de +St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte." The +badge of the sisterhood is a +cross inscribed with their +motto "L'obéissance jusqu'à +la mort." Some of the party +made an attempt at fishing +in the little river Douve, but +without success, though rewarded +for their walk by a +pretty view of the apse of the Abbey church, with +its delicately-sculptured lancet windows, from the +opposite side of the river.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 5. L'OBÉISSANCE JUSQU'À LA MORT.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image05.jpg"> + <head>5. L'OBÉISSANCE <lb />JUSQU'À LA MORT.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + + +<p>We hired a private carriage (<hi rend="italic">voiture à volonté</hi>) to +Périers. After passing over a hilly road we crossed +a marsh which extends from Carentan to the sea, +and reached a town called La Haye-du-Puits—a +singular name derived from the custom in the middle +ages of surrounding the "motte" or enclosure upon +which the donjon was built, with a wooden palisade, +or sometimes with a thick hedge formed of thorns +and branches of trees interlaced: hence La Haye-du-Puits, +La Haye-Pesnel, and others. Here is a Norman +church restored: all the capitals of the columns +are of the same pattern.</p> + +<p>The Abbey church at Lessay, where next we +<pb n="018"/><anchor id="Pg018"/> +stopped, is of the twelfth century, and considered, +with Coutances and Périers, to be the finest examples +of Romanesque in the Cotentin. The arches are +round, and all the architecture of the church, which +has been restored, is of the same period. The Abbey +of Lessay had transmarine jurisdiction and the right +of presentation to the Priory of Boxgrove and other +endowments in the diocese of Chichester. The +Abbey house, now inhabited, is a fine modernised +habitation. At Lessay we saw the manner of washing +linen practised in many places throughout Normandy +and Brittany. Being first roughly washed in the +river, the clothes are placed in layers in a large cask, +with a bunghole at the bottom, alternately with +wood-ashes, and on the top is laid a piece of +coarse sacking. Boiling water is poured over the +top, which, as it passes through the linen, absorbs +the soda of the ashes, escaping at the bottom and +carrying away with it all impurities. This process +is repeated several times till the clothes are perfectly +white.</p> + +<p>Throughout this part of the country the mistletoe +hangs as the sign of a cabaret; and if cider is sold, +some apples are fastened to the bush. On the road +to Périers we crossed a "lande" or common, where +we met numerous carts carrying sea sand, here used +to mix with the heavy soil as manure.</p> + +<p>At Périers we slept at the little inn "La Croix +<pb n="019"/><anchor id="Pg019"/> +Blanche," kept by Madame Casimir, the widow +of a Polish officer, well known for her eccentricity +and good cuisine. The entrance to the apartments +in the inns is generally through the kitchen; in many +the box bedstead (<hi rend="italic">lit clos</hi>) stands in the corner near +the fire, Breton fashion. On a barber's shop we saw +painted up "Içi l'on rajeunit." The church has a +tall spire, and is one of the finest religious edifices in +this part of Normandy—painted windows, the capitals +of the columns of varied foliage, and fine groined +clustered arches.</p> + +<p>We had a most perilous drive to Coutances, the +coachman, "en ribote," drove us at a fearful pace, +and we were thankful when we arrived in safety. +The Norman cathedral is beautiful—so simple, so +pure, and elegant; its tall towers terminating in spires; +and the chapels being separated by open mullioned +arches, great lightness is given to the interior. The +Bishop of Coutances was officiating at the consecration +of some stones for a new pavement; each flag +was rubbed over and anointed with oil.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 6. Coutances Cathedral.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image06.jpg"> + <head>6. Coutances Cathedral.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + + +<p>The church of St. Pierre has a handsome square +tower, pierced gallery, and apse with a double row +of columns. In the church of St. Nicholas we particularly +noticed the fine bosses of the groined arches +in the chancel. The fonts hereabouts have the serpent +with the apple, and the cross carved upon the +<pb n="020"/><anchor id="Pg020"/> +cover. The church was filled with pots of flowers +they were employed in removing, for the day before +had been the Fête of St. Fiacre, the patron of gardeners. +St. Fiacre, or Fiaker, was an Irish monk of +the seventh century, who, according to tradition, +<pb n="021"/><anchor id="Pg021"/> +obtained from the Bishop of Meaux a grant of as +much ground out of the forest as he could dig a +trench round in one day's labour, for the purpose +of making a garden and cultivating vegetables for +travellers. Long time after, the peasants would +show the ditch ten times longer than was expected, +and relate how, when the Irishman took his stick to +trace a line upon the soil, the earth dug itself under +the point of the stick, while the forest trees fell right +and left to save him the trouble of cutting them +down. Outside the town are the remains of an aqueduct, +with ivy-covered arches, said to be the work +of the middle ages. It is a good point of view for +sketching the cathedral, and the public gardens also +command a fine prospect.</p> + +<p>The approach to Granville is by a sharp descent. +The town is built at the foot of a rocky promontory, +the streets rising in terraces cut in the rock, on the +top of which are the citadel and the church on the +culminating point. It has been styled a Gibraltar +in miniature. A fort was built here by Lord Scales, +who commanded the English forces in the Cotentin +in the time of Henry VI., and it was taken by +surprise by Estouteville, the hero of Saint Michel. +The church is cruciform in plan, the arms of the +cross being equal. The axis of the nave is inclined +to the left, as we afterwards observed that of the +<corr sic="Creisker">Creizker</corr> at St. Pol de Léon. It has been lately +<pb n="022"/><anchor id="Pg022"/> +restored, and the painted windows are offerings of +the different families of the town. The view from +the top of the "Roc" is very extensive, including +the Chausey islands and Jersey. A steamer runs +twice a week to St. Helier. A deep cutting in the +rocks opens on the beach, where the bathing-machines +are stationed—curious little canvas huts +carried upon poles, like sedan chairs. The tide here +rises 45 feet. It was to Granville the Vendean +army, commanded by La Rochejacquelin, appointed +generalissimo at twenty-two, marched after their fatal +step of crossing the Loire, expecting to make a junction +with the English; but Granville was vigorously +defended, contrary winds retarded the arrival of the +English fleet, and the retreat from the coast, where +it might have been supported by the English, was +the ruin of the Royalist army. Of the 80,000 who +crossed the Loire sixty days before, only 8000 +remained to make their last heroic resistance at +Savenay, which ended the great Vendean war. A +few months after, the hero of this noble army, the +chivalrous Henri de la Rochejacquelin, fell from the +bullet of a soldier whose life he had spared<note place="foot">"Si +je recule, tuez-moi; si j'avance, suivez-moi; si je meurs, +vengez-moi," was his celebrated address to the peasant army.</note>:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">Lorsqu'en des jours trop malheureux</q></l> +<l>Pâlissait l'astre de la France;</l> +<l>Quand les cœurs les plus valeureux</l> +<l>Semblaient perdre toute espérance,</l></lg> +<pb n="023"/><anchor id="Pg023"/> +<lg><l>L'antique honneur, la sainte foi,</l> +<l>Brillèrent dans cette contrée;</l> +<l>Mourir pour son Dieu, pour son roi,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Fut le serment de la Vendée.</q></l> +</lg></lg> + +<p>The costume of the Granville women is singular. +They wear long black cloaks or mantles, edged with +a frill of the same material, and on their heads a +kind of bandeau or under-cap, turned up at the ears, +surmounted by a white handkerchief, folded square +and placed horizontally upon the head, like the +plinth of a Grecian capital.</p> + +<p>We drove to St. Pair, a small watering-place about +two miles from Granville, nicely situated in a little +sandy bay. In the middle of the church is the +monumental tomb of St. Pair and another saint (St. +Gault); their effigies, with mitre and crozier, side +by side.</p> + +<p>Next day we had a beautiful drive to Avranches. +A winding road leads up to the town, which is +situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a view +of Brittany on one side and of Normandy on the +other—a broad expanse of land and sea, the former +extending over the valley of the Sée, with its network +of small streams interlacing each other; Mont +St. Michel appears in the distance. The finest view +is from the Botanic gardens. The cathedral of +Avranches fell at the end of the last century, but a +model of it is preserved in the museum. One stone +<pb n="024"/><anchor id="Pg024"/> +remains, carefully surrounded by massive chains, +with an inscription recording that it was the spot +where Henry II. received absolution for the murder +of Thomas à Becket:—"Sur cette pierre, içi à la +porte de la cathédrale d'Avranches, après le meurtre +de Thomas Becket, Archévêque de Cantorbéry, +Henri II., roi d'Angleterre, duc de Normandie, +reçut à genoux, des légats du pape, l'absolution apostolique, +le dimanche xxii Mai, 1172." The cemetery +is at the foot of the hill; the tombs are of granite, +with the letters in relief: among them we read many +well-known English names.</p> + +<p>At Pontorson we could find no remains of the +castle of Du Guesclin, which was nearly surprised by +the English under a captain named Felton, during +the absence of Du Guesclin, with the connivance of +the "chambrières" of the Lady Typhaine, his wife. +Already their scaling-ladders were against the wall, +when Juliana, Du Guesclin's sister, agitated by a +troublous dream, awoke suddenly, seized a sword, +rushed to the window, and upset three English who +were coming up the ladder, and they were killed by +the fall. The enemy retired. Next morning Du +Guesclin, on his return to Pontorson, met Felton +and his party, attacked them, and took them prisoners. +When Typhaine saw Felton, she tauntingly +exclaimed, "Comment, brave Felton, vous voilà +encore! C'est trop pour un homme de cœur comme +<pb n="025"/><anchor id="Pg025"/> +vous d'être battu, dans une intervalle de douze heures, +une fois par la sœur, une autre par le frère." Du +Guesclin caused the faithless "chambrières" to be +sewed up in sacks and flung into the river.</p> + +<p>John IV. Duke of <corr sic="Britanny">Brittany</corr> conferred upon Du +Guesclin the government of Pontorson, of which +territory he was personally lord, by right of his +mother. It was here he often resided, and here he +celebrated being made Constable of France by King +Charles V., and fraternised with Olivier de Clisson, +agreeing to afford each other mutual help—"contre +tous ceux qui peuvent vivre et mourir." The granite +church was founded by Duke Robert, father of the +Conqueror.</p> + +<p>Pontorson is the most convenient place for visiting +Mont St. Michel. Our drive thither was by the +banks of the river Couësnon, along a sandy road, bordered +on each side by hedges of tamarisks, which +leads to the "Grève," or sands, which have to be +crossed to reach the Mount, a distance of rather +more than a mile. We met numbers of bare-legged +half-clad women and children, bringing in the produce +of their fishing, shrimps and cockles tied up in +nets, and peasants with carts carrying in sea sand for +dressing the land. The appearance of Mont St. +Michel is very imposing, a cone of granite encircled +by the sea. Above rises the fortress, surmounted by +the church, a height of 400 feet from the top to the +<pb n="026"/><anchor id="Pg026"/> +water. Below, at the foot of the Mount, picturesquely +situated on an insulated rock, is the little chapel of +St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, the founder of St. +Michel. The Mount has been the residence of many +of our English princes. Matilda, queen of the Conqueror, +visited St. Michel. It was here her son +Henry I., then only Count of the Cotentin, was +blockaded by his brothers William and Robert, and +obliged to surrender. Here Henry II. held his +court, and, when Henry V. overran Normandy, St. +Michel was the only fortress that held out against +him, under its gallant defender Louis d'Estouteville +of Bricquebec. Two cannons, now at the entrance +of the castle, are said to have been taken from +the English at the siege. Normandy was always the +scene of the quarrels between the English Norman +princes, of the disputes between the sons of the +Conqueror, between Stephen of Blois and Henry of +Anjou, and again of those between Henry II. and +his sons, and of Richard and his brother John, to +the latter of whom the Normans were attached.</p> + +<p>Seven French kings have made pilgrimages to St. +Michel; and here Louis XI. instituted the order +of knighthood, called in honour of the archangel +St. Michael, but afterwards styled the order of the +Coquille, from the cockleshells that formed the collar +of the knights, and the golden cockle-shells that bordered +their mantles. The motto of the order was +<pb n="027"/><anchor id="Pg027"/> +the old motto of the Mount, "Immensi tremor +Oceani" (the trembling of the immeasurable ocean), +being an allusion to the popular belief that when +the English approached St. Michel, the guardian +archangel of the Mount raised a tempest to drive +the enemy's vessels upon the rocks. This belief may +be traced back to the time when the island was +occupied by the Druid priestesses, who were supposed +to have the power of raising storms and stilling +them by their magic arrows of gold.</p> + +<p>We ascended by the flight of steps to the "Merveille," +as the convent building is called, and well it +deserves its name, from its elegance, its boldness, and +its position, with a wall of above one hundred feet +high, and of immense length, rising from the rock +and supported by fifteen buttresses, and divided into +three stories. In every point of view it is one of the +most remarkable edifices of the thirteenth century. +The salle des chevaliers, where the chapters of the +knights were held, is a fine hall, with three rows +of columns, and above it are the beautiful Gothic +cloisters. The "préau" or court is surrounded by a +double row of pointed arches, interlacing each other, +and filled in with flowered spandrils and cornices, +carved with the greatest delicacy and endless variety. +The church which crowns the building is supported +by a circle of enormous columns in the crypt beneath, +called the Souterrain des Gros Piliers: it has been +<pb n="028"/><anchor id="Pg028"/> +entirely restored, and the carvings are the work of +the prisoners who were confined here. From one +of the doors we went out to the platform or terrace +called Beauregard, from the beauty of its prospect, +or sometimes Sault Gautier, from a prisoner of that +name, who three times threw himself off the platform +to commit suicide. The view from hence is most +extensive, the whole circuit of the bay extending to +the west as far as Cancale. In 1203 St. Michel +became a royal demesne, and the buildings were +entirely reconstructed by the Abbot Jourdan, assisted +by Philip Augustus; and the works were continued +by his successors to 1260.</p> + +<p>Beneath and adjacent to the Mount, is the little +island of La Tombeleine or tombeau d'-Helène, so +called from a young lady of that name, who unable +to accompany her lover knight when he left for +England with the Conqueror, as soon as the vessel +which carried him away disappeared from her sight, +laid down on the shore and died. Every year, on +the anniversary of her death, the fishermen will tell +you they see a dove seated upon the Tombeleine +rock, and remain there till morning's dawn.</p> + +<p>The guide pointed out to us the window of St. +Michel, from which Barbès tried to escape by means +of a cord made of his sheets cut into strips and tied +together; but the line was too short, and he fell +upon the rock and was taken up much hurt. The +<pb n="029"/><anchor id="Pg029"/> +provisions for the fortress are brought in up an +inclined plane, and raised by means of a tread-wheel, +formerly worked by the prisoners. We were conducted +to the spot where stood, with bars only three +inches apart, the iron cage in which so many celebrities +were immured. Dubourg, the Dutch journalist, +who wrote against Louis XIV., died within its +bars, devoured, it is said, by the rats. In 1777, the +Comte d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.) desired it +should be destroyed, but his wishes were disregarded. +His cousin, the Duc de Chartres (afterwards Louis +Philippe), with his brother and sister, and Madame +de Genlis, subsequently visited the Mount. All exclaimed +against the iron cage, and when they heard +that the Comte d'Artois had ordered its destruction, +they sent for hatchets, and the Duc de Chartres +gave the first blow towards its demolition; but the +fine old fortress is no longer desecrated as a prison. +The Emperor has restored it to its original position, +and it is now placed under the control of the Bishop +of Coutances, and is used as an asylum for orphans +under the care of a few Sisters.</p> + +<p>Next morning we crossed the boundary between +Normandy and Brittany, the river Couësnon, which +has often changed its course, once, it is said, running +beyond St. Michel—hence the popular saying—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Le Couësnon par sa folie</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">A mis le Mont en Normandie.</q></l></lg> + +<pb n="030"/><anchor id="Pg030"/> +<p>We had a beautiful drive to Dol or Dol-de-Bretagne, +as it is styled, to distinguish it from the fortress of the +same name in the Jura, upon the taking of which +Madame de Sevigné writes in her letters with so much +enthusiasm. We were now fairly in Brittany, which +though geographically part of France still remains +very distinct, owing to the Celtic origin of its inhabitants. +Brittany consists of five departments; +but it is in Lower Brittany alone, comprised in the +departments of Finistère, Morbihan, and the Côtes-du-Nord, +that the true Celtic race, its language, +names, features, costumes, and superstitions are to +be found.</p> + +<p>This is the true Brittany, the Bretagne Bretonnante +of Froissart, who calls the eastern part of the +province, La Bretagne Douce, because the French +language is spoken there. Dol was the great +bulwark of Brittany against Normandy; the wall +and moat surrounding the town, with some of the +towers, still remain. Many of the houses are built, +as the French term it, "en colombage" that is, +with the upper story projecting some fifteen feet +over the ground-floor, forming a gallery or porch +supported by oak posts or columns with sculptured +capitals of the thirteenth century. The inn we occupied +had one of these porches: Madame Barbot, +our landlady, and her maid, were both dressed in +Breton costume, with lace-trimmed embroidered +<pb n="031"/><anchor id="Pg031"/> +caps and aprons of fine muslin, clear-starched and +ironed with a perfection which the most accomplished +"blanchisseuse du fin" of Paris would find +it difficult to surpass. The people here have the +Breton physiognomy, sharp black eyes, short roundi +faces and brown freckled complexions, a contrast to +the blue eyes, long oval faces, +and bright tints of their Norman +neighbours.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 7. Pilaster and Cornice from the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image07.jpg"> + <head>7. Pilaster and Cornice from the <lb />Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, <lb />Dol.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The principal building at +Dol is the Cathedral, built +of grey granite, in the style +of many of our English +churches. On the south is +the "porte episcopale," a +large projecting porch with +mullioned sides, and, near it, +a smaller porch with a central +column semée of hearts, the +"armes parlantes" of Bishop +Cœuret who built it. The +clustered columns of the nave, +consist of a central pillar surrounded +by four others running +up to the roof, so slender and delicate that +they are united to the centre by small bars of iron. +Over the high altar is an enormous wooden crozier, +carved and gilt, from which the Host is suspended. +<pb n="032"/><anchor id="Pg032"/> +A beautiful Renaissance tomb on the north side of +the cathedral was raised in 1507 to the memory of +Bishop James, +who died three +years before. +The sculpture is +much mutilated, +but the arabesques +are +most delicately +and elegantly +chiselled. It is +supposed to be +the work of Jean +Just of Tours, sculptor of the magnificent tomb of +Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, erected at St. +Denis by order of Francis I.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w50" url="images/image08.jpg"> + <head>8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, <lb />Cathedral, Dol.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The chapel of St. Samson, patron saint of the +cathedral, has been restored. Mad people were +brought here for cure, and placed in a recess which +still remains; the opening was covered over by an +iron grating. Dol was formerly the ecclesiastical +metropolis of Brittany; the see was founded by +Samson, one of those British monks, who, with a +whole population of men and women, emigrated +from England to escape the Saxon slavery. They +crossed the Channel in barks made of skins sewn +together, singing, as they went, the Lamentations of +<pb n="033"/><anchor id="Pg033"/> +the Psalmist. This emigration lasted more than a +century (from 450 to 550), and poured a Christian +population into a Celtic country where paganism +was longest preserved. St. Samson and his six +suffragans—all monks, missionaries, and bishops, like +himself—were called the "Seven Saints of Brittany;" +St. Samson was what was termed an "evêque portatif," +meaning a bishop without a diocese, until he +founded that of Dol. Telio, also a British monk, +with the assistance of St. Samson, planted near Dol +an orchard three miles in length, and to him is +attributed the first introduction of the apple-tree +into Brittany. Wherever the monks went, they cultivated +the soil; all had in their mouths the words of +the Apostle, "If any would not work, neither should +he eat." The people admired the industry of the +new comers, and, from admiration they passed to +imitation; the peasants joined the monks in tilling +the ground, and even the brigands became agriculturists. +"The Cross and the plough, labour and +prayer," was the motto of these early missionaries.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Sûr que le Ciel maudit l'arbre stérile,</q></l> +<l>Le sage passe en opérant le bien:</l> +<l>Vivre et mourir à l'univers utile,</l> +<l><q rend="post">C'est la devise et l'esprit du chrétien.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl> + <title rend="italic">Chants de Piété</title>, + <author rend="smallcaps">Malo de Garaby</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>The monks of Dol were great bee-farmers, as we +learn from an anecdote told by Count Montalembert +<pb n="034"/><anchor id="Pg034"/> +in his 'Moines de l'Occident.' One day when St. Samson +of Dol and St. Germain, Bishop of Paris, +were conversing on the respective merits of their +monasteries, St. Samson said that his monks were +such good and careful preservers of their bees that, +besides the honey which they yielded in abundance, +they furnished more wax than was used in the +churches during the year, but that, their climate +not being fit for the growth of vines, they had great +scarcity of wine. Upon hearing this, St. Germain +replied, "We, on the contrary, produce more wine +than we can consume, but we have to buy wax; so, +if you will furnish us with wax, we will give you a +tenth of our wine." Samson accepted the offer, and +the mutual arrangement was continued during the +lives of the two saints.</p> + +<p>The marshy country round Dol has been formerly +inundated by the sea; it is now reclaimed and protected +by a dyke twenty-two miles long, extending +from Pontorson to Chateauneuf. The whole tract +is full of buried wood, a submerged forest, which +the people dig up, and use for furniture. It is black, +like the Irish bog-oak. They call it "couëron." +In the midst of this plain rises a mamelon or insulated +granite rock, resembling in form Mont St. +Michel, called the Mont Dol. On the top is the +little chapel of Notre Dame de l'Espérance, upon +which was formerly a telegraph, and near it is a +<pb n="035"/><anchor id="Pg035"/> +column surmounted by a colossal statue of Our +Lady. Mont Dol was a consecrated place of the +Druids. The guides showed us a spring which +never dries, and also a rock upon which they point +out the print of the foot of the demon, left by him +when wrestling with St. Michael. We met the curé, +who gave us a medal of the church, and told us the +principal points in the view before us, extending +over the whole Bay of Cancale.</p> +<pb n="036"/><anchor id="Pg036"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 9. Menhir, near Dol.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image09.jpg"> + <head>9. Menhir, near Dol.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>On our way back to Dol, we walked to a cornfield, +in the midst of it stands a menhir<note place="foot"> +The largest menhir in Finistère is on a lande near the +farm of Kergloas, or "the plain of mourning;" this, with the +menhir of Dol, have probably been erected as funeral monuments, +or point out the scene of some battle slaughter.</note> (they are so +termed from the Breton <hi rend="italic">mœn</hi>, stone, and <hi rend="italic">hir</hi>, long), +called the "Pierre du champ dolant," a shaft of gray +granite, about thirty feet high, and said to measure +fifteen more underground. On the top is a cross. +The first preachers of Christianity, unable to uproot +the veneration for the menhirs, surmounted them +with the cross, preserving the worship but changing +the symbol. In the same manner, they did not +attempt to destroy the veneration for sacred groves +and fountains, but transferred to new saints the +miracles of times past.</p> + +<p>We drove through a pretty country to see the +Château of Combourg, where Chateaubriand passed +his early days. It is a fine square castle of the +fifteenth century, with massive towers at each corner, +surrounded by trees, and standing proudly over the +village below. The drawbridge has been replaced by +a modern "perron" or flight of stone steps, which +leads to the entrance hall. The salle d'honneur +looks over a lake. We were taken into his little +melancholy room which Chateaubriand so well +describes.</p> +<pb n="037"/><anchor id="Pg037"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 10. Château of Combourg.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image10.jpg"> + <head>10. Château of Combourg.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p rend="small">"La fenêtre de mon donjon s'ouvrait sur le cour intérieure; +le jour, j'avais en perspective les créneaux de la courtine opposeé, +où végétaient des scolopendres et croissait un prunier sauvage. +Quelques martinets, qui, durant l'été, s'enfonçaient en criant +dans les trous des murs, étaient mes seuls compagnons. La +nuit je n'apercevais qu'un petit morceau du ciel et quelques +étoiles. Lorsque la lune brillait et qu'elle s'abaissait à l'occident, +j'en étais averti par ses rayons, qui venaient à mon lit au +travers des carreaux losangés de la fenêtre. Des chouettes +voletant d'un tour à l'autre, passant et repassant entre la +lune et moi, dessinaient sur mes rideaux l'ombre mobile de +leurs ailes."</p> + +<p>The bed on which Chateaubriand died has been +brought from Paris and placed in the room.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image11.jpg"> + <head>11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The next morning we left Dol for Cancale, of +such world-wide celebrity for its oysters. We left +the railway at La Gouesnière, five miles and a half +from Cancale, to which we proceeded by the mail +<pb n="038"/><anchor id="Pg038"/> +cart. It requires to travel in Brittany to form any +notion of the detestable vehicles, whether public or +"voitures à volonté," in which travellers in this country +are condemned to ride. Uncleaned, unpainted, +creaking, jolting machines—as fully tenanted with +every kind of insect annoyance, as if one were travelling +in a hen-house. The horses are good, hardy, +enduring little animals, which go their thirty to +<pb n="039"/><anchor id="Pg039"/> +fifty miles a day without any distress either to +themselves or the traveller. The Breton drivers are +gentle and kind, making more use of their voices +than of their whips in urging on their horses. The +town of Cancale is situated on the heights, a precipitous +descent leading to the village below, called +La Houle, which lines the edge of the shore, and +is occupied mostly by fishermen. This is the port, +and here are the pier and the lighthouse, and also +a comfortable inn to which the people of St. Malo +resort in large parties, an omnibus running thence +daily. The panoramic view of the bay of Cancale is +beautiful and most extensive, one vast crescent of +sand some ten square leagues in extent, stretching +from the picturesque rocks of Cancale to Granville, +its most northern point, and including Mont Dol, +Mont St. Michel, and Avranches. The western +side is lined with huts and windmills, but the water +is so shallow that no boat can land. Having walked +round the little hurdled-in oyster parks, numbering, +we were told, about 600, and made ourselves very +wet and dirty, though we borrowed sabots to enable +us to wade through the mud, we returned to the +inn, and next day reached St. Malo.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image12.jpg"> + <head>12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + + +<p>St. Malo stands on a small granite island at the +mouth of the Rance, connected, by a causeway +called "Le Sillon," with the mainland. The space +it occupies is so small, that castle, churches, streets, +<pb n="040"/><anchor id="Pg040"/> +and towers are all crowded together, and the whole +is nearly surrounded by a sea wall, which makes the +town appear as if rising straight out of the ocean. +Towards the sea, the bay is encircled with groups of +craggy islets, many surmounted by forts, bristling +up as the tide recedes, in every direction. Conspicuous +among these island rocks is that called the +<pb n="041"/><anchor id="Pg041"/> +Grand Bé, chosen by Chateaubriand for his last +resting-place, as he wished to be buried near the +place of his birth. Singularly enough the name of +the island "Bé" signifies a tomb. On his request +being granted, Chateaubriand wrote to the Mayor +of St. Malo.</p> + +<p rend="small"> +"Enfin, Monsieur, j'aurai un tombeau, et je vous le devrai, +ainsi qu'à mes bienveillants compatriotes. Vous savez, Monsieur, +que je ne veux que quelques pieds de sable, une pierre +de rivage sans ornement et sans inscription, une simple croix +de fer, et une petite grille pour empêcher les animaux de me +deterrer. La croix dira que l'homme réposant à ses pieds était +un Chrétien; cela suffit à ma mémoire." +</p> + +<p>At low water, the island is accessible on foot. +The tomb consists of a plain stone without inscription, +surmounted by a granite cross, and is surrounded +by an iron railing. It is placed on the +edge of a rock, and is the resort of crowds of +pilgrims.</p> + +<p rend="display; small"> +"La vaste mer murmure autour de son cercueil." +</p> + +<p>The Hôtel de France is the house where Chateaubriand's +family lived, and the room he occupied is +filled with various memorials of him. The Chateaubriand +arms hang upon the wall. They were given +by St. Louis to an ancestor who was wounded and +taken prisoner at the battle of Massoura. The King +changed the peacock's plumes, previously borne by +the family, to fleurs de lys on a field gules, with the +<pb n="042"/><anchor id="Pg042"/> +proud motto "Mon sang teint les bannières de +France." The tides here rise to between forty and +fifty feet above low-water mark, so that the harbour +is dry at low water, and is crossed on foot to go to +St. Servan, the suburb on the opposite side.</p> + +<p>We walked round the ramparts and were shown +the little gate down which were sent every night the +watch dogs of St. Malo, "chiens Anglais qui +s'appelent dogues." Shut up during the day, they +were let out at ten at night, and recalled in the +morning to the sound of a copper trumpet, by their +keeper, styled the "chiennetier." Enactments were +made for their maintenance, called the "droit de +chiennage." When let loose at night, a warning +bell was rung to apprise the inhabitants, as they +tore the legs of every one they met. Hence it used +to be said "Il a été à St. Malo, les chiens lui ont +rongé les mollets." In 1770, a naval officer trying to +force a passage was attacked by a troop of these +dogs prowling between St. Malo and St. Servan; +his sword was useless as defence, and, exhausted, in +despair he threw himself into the sea, but here he +was followed by the dogs and torn to pieces. A few +days after they were all destroyed by the municipality, +and the custom of keeping them has been +since discontinued. In an old map of St. Malo, or +"Saint Malo de l'isle," as it was then styled, preserved +in the Imperial Library at Paris, is laid down, +<pb n="043"/><anchor id="Pg043"/> +near the "Sillon" a little sentry-box marked, "Corps-de-garde +de nuit pour les chiens," and again, near +the "Tour de la grande Porte," is the "Pont aux +chiens." The date of the map is 1662. The arms +of St. Malo till the seventeenth century were, on a +field argent, a mastiff gules.</p> + +<p>The castle dates principally from the Queen-Duchess +Anne, and one of its massive towers, the +"Qui qu'en grogne" is a memorial of her dauntless +spirit. Twice crowned Queen of France, she was +the only one of her line worthy of the ducal crown. +The Bishop of St. Malo was temporal lord of the +town, and maintained he held it direct from the +Pope, as a fief of the Church, because it was built +upon land where a convent formerly stood; and +consequently the Duke of Brittany had no authority +over it, either spiritual or temporal. Duke John V. +began to build a castle, but the Bishop opposed himself +to its construction, and the contest lasted on +until the time of the Queen-Duchess Anne, who, in +defiance of the Bishop, and to shew that she was and +always would be sovereign of St. Malo, finished the +fortress and caused the lofty inscription to be placed +in raised letters upon the great tower: "Qui qu'en +grogne, ainsi sera, c'est mon plaisir;"—so runs the +legend, but unfortunately a similar story is told of +Louis II., Duke of Bourbon.</p> + +<p>On the opposite side of the mouth of the Rance +<pb n="044"/><anchor id="Pg044"/> +is Dinard, lately become a favourite watering-place; +it has good sands, and houses and villas are rapidly +rising up in every direction, and covering its granite +hills.</p> + +<p>The prettiest route to Dinan is by the little +steamer which ascends the Rance, a lovely voyage, +occupying about two hours. The banks one mixture +of rocks, valleys, and verdure; the river now +expanding into the width of a lake, now narrowing +between its forest-clothed sides. After passing +through a lock, and, winding our way through a +narrow pass of rocky crags, we reached the bridge +of Dinan; above us, the gigantic granite viaduct +stretched across the valley, the town, with its feudal +walls and castle, perched on its rocky heights over +the river.</p> + +<p>In the Grande Place is a miserable statue of Du +Guesclin, who looks more like a wandering minstrel +than the hero of Brittany and Constable of +France. His life forms quite an historic romance. +His future greatness was foretold by a prophetess; +his wife, the Lady Tiphaine, was herself a fairy; his +battles resemble those of the giants of old. Du +Guesclin was born at Broons, and was the eldest of +ten children and of great trouble to his parents. +One day his mother dreamt she was in possession of +a casket, containing portraits of herself and her lord, +and on one side were set nine precious stones of +<pb n="045"/><anchor id="Pg045"/> +lustrous beauty encircling one rough unpolished +pebble. In her dream she carried the casket to a +lapidary, and asked him to take out the rough stone +as unworthy of such goodly company; but he advised +her to allow it to remain, and subsequently it +shone forth more brilliantly than the precious gems +with which it was surrounded. The after superiority +of Bertrand over the other nine children +explained the dream.</p> + +<p>It was in this "Place," where his statue now +stands, the celebrated duel took place between Du +Guesclin and an English knight, called by the +Breton chroniclers Thomas of Cantorbéry. Dinan +was at that time closely besieged by the Duke of +Lancaster (1359), with the young Count de Montfort, +and defended by Du Guesclin. A truce of +forty days had been agreed upon, before the expiration +of which Oliver, brother of Du Guesclin, +rode out unarmed beyond the city walls, and was +made prisoner by Thomas of Cantorbéry, who demanded +a ransom of 1000 florins. On this news +reaching Du Guesclin, he immediately repaired to +the English camp, where he found the Duke of +Lancaster playing chess with Sir John Chandos. +They received him most cordially, and agreed that +the dispute should be settled by a combat within +the walls, the Duke of Lancaster consenting to preside. +Victory declared in favour of Du Guesclin, +<pb n="046"/><anchor id="Pg046"/> +who would have cut off the head of his adversary, +had not the Duke of Lancaster interceded for his +life. Cantorbéry was dragged upon a hurdle out +of the lists, and condemned to pay 1000 florins to +Oliver; his horse and armour were given to Bertrand, +and the felon knight expelled the English +army.</p> + +<p>We drove to see the Castle of Montafilant, one +of the apanages of the Rohan family, which passed +with many others to the unfortunate Gilles de +Bretagne, by his marriage with the heiress Françoise +de Dinan. The castle is approached by a steep +winding path, leading to the plateau upon which it +stands. Before the use of firearms, its position rendered +it impregnable. Of its seven towers, two only +remain.</p> + +<p>The story of Gilles de Bretagne forms the subject +of a romance by the Vicomte Walsh. Though his +conduct was not free from blame, his long captivity +and tragic end have rendered this unfortunate prince +an object of pity to posterity. Third son of Duke +John V., he was reared with Henry VI. of England, +and personally attached to the English; but he +never was in league with England against his own +country, and his uncle the Constable Richemont +regarded him as the honour and hope of his house. +His wife Françoise was the most beautiful and accomplished +woman of her time, the "perle de noblesse, +<pb n="047"/><anchor id="Pg047"/> +de gentilesse, et de savoir;" and moreover possessed of +the rich inheritance of her uncle Bertrand de Dinan, +of the Montafilant branch. She had been betrothed +from her infancy to the Sire de Gavre, son of Guy, +Comte de Laval; but her father died when she was +only eight years old, and Gilles de Bretagne carried +her off by force. Dissatisfied with his paternal inheritance, +the lordship of Champtocé, he retired to +Guildo, one of the châteaux of Françoise's dower, +where he passed his time in company with his +English archers. His withdrawal from court was +represented to Duke Francis as the beginning of +a revolt, by Arthur de Montauban, his bitterest +enemy and a great favourite of the Duke. Gilles +neglected his young wife, and she is reported, in an +unguarded moment, to have said to Montauban, +she would marry him "if her husband were to die." +Duke Francis was determined to get rid of his +brother, and Charles VII. was persuaded to assist +him in his vile design. The King arrested Gilles +on the charge of high treason, as being in correspondence +with the English; and, in proof of the +charge, his enemies produced forged letters from +the King of England compromising the loyalty of +Gilles. Charles gave him over to his brother for +punishment. In vain were Gilles's supplications to +the Duke, or the entreaties of the Constable, who +went to Dinan and knelt to Francis to beg for the +<pb n="048"/><anchor id="Pg048"/> +pardon of his brother. Equally fruitless his being +acquitted at Rédon, from there being no proof of +his guilt. The unfortunate Gilles was dragged from +prison to prison, and consigned to keepers destitute +of every feeling of humanity. Montauban, an +Italian by descent (his mother was a Visconti), sent +for poison from Lombardy, and administered in his +soup a strong dose, which the good constitution of +Gilles enabled him to resist. Starvation was then +tried, and the wretched Gilles would stand at his +prison window, calling on the passers by to give +him bread: "Du pain, du pain pour l'amour de +Dieu," but no one ventured to relieve him. At +last, a poor woman dared to give him food, and +placed a loaf on the edge of his grated window, +continuing for six months to share with him in +secret her scanty meal of black bread. Seeing that +he could hold out no longer and that his death was +determined upon, Gilles begged the woman would +fetch him a minister of religion, that he might confess +before he died. By stealth she brought him a +Cordelier monk, who confessed him across the bars +of his prison, and Gilles adjured him to seek his +brother and acquaint him with his pitiable condition. +The monk started on his errand, but in the +mean time the gaolers of Gilles determined on +putting an end to his life. They twisted a cloth +round his neck, and smothered him between two +<pb n="049"/><anchor id="Pg049"/> +mattresses while he slept. The monks of Bosquen +carried his body to their abbey for interment, and +the wooden effigy that was placed over his grave is +still preserved in the Museum at St. Brieuc. The +monk who had received Gilles's confession went in +quest of Duke Francis, who, on hearing of his +brother's death when at Avranches, had left for +Saint Michel. The monk met him on the Grève, +and cited him in the name of his brother "de la +part du Messire Gilles" to appear within fifty days +at the tribunal of Heaven to answer for his murder. +The menace was realised. Duke Francis died within +the appointed time, struck with remorse, and terrified +at the summons of the Cordelier. The monk was +never seen again. On the death of Gilles, the Duke +of Brittany himself wished to marry Françoise, but +she would not listen to his proposals; and at last +was obliged, in order to recover her liberty, to marry +the aged Comte de Laval, father of her betrothed, +with whom she lived peacefully thirty years, and had +three sons. Duke Francis II. appointed her to the +charge of rearing his daughter Anne.</p> + +<p>Arthur Montauban turned monk to avoid the +vengeance of Duke Peter, brother of Gilles, and +eventually became Archbishop of Bordeaux. The +Pope gave him the Abbey of Rédon, but popular +indignation prevented him from accepting the appointment.</p> +<pb n="050"/><anchor id="Pg050"/> + +<p>On our return from Montafilant we stopped to +visit the Lunatic Asylum (Asile des aliénés), called +Les Bas Foins, kept by the brothers of Saint-Jean-de-Dieu. +There are six hundred inmates under the +charge of about sixty brethren. The buildings, +with the chapel, are very handsome and most complete +in all the arrangements. Within the enclosure +is a large piece of land. The lunatics are +employed in agricultural, garden, and house occupations; +they look very contented and happy. +Visitors are not allowed to speak to them. We +omitted seeing the Croix du Saint Esprit, a curiously +sculptured Gothic granite cross of the fourteenth +century, not far from the asylum.</p> + +<p>The castle of Dinan is now a prison. It was +occupied by the Queen-Duchess Anne, when on +her way to a pilgrimage to Notre Dame-du-Folgoët, +in fulfilment of a vow made during the illness of +Louis XII. In the chapel is shewn a sculptured +seat, still called the arm-chair of the Duchess Anne. +Within these walls were crammed, in the last century, +about 2000 English prisoners of war, many of +whom fell victims to a contagious fever. From the +platform of the keep we had a magnificent view of +the surrounding country, extending to Mont Dol +and the sea.</p> + +<p>The church of St. Sauveur has a richly sculptured +Romanesque portal. It contains the heart of +<pb n="051"/><anchor id="Pg051"/> +Du Guesclin, transferred from the church of the +Dominicans, where he desired it to be interred +by the side of his wife Tiphaine. His body was +buried at St. Denis, in a tomb King Charles V. +caused to be made in his lifetime, and he left +orders that on his death his Constable should +repose at his feet. On the dark-coloured monumental +stone now incrusted on the wall, are roughly +sculptured his arms (an eagle displayed charged +with a cotice<note place="foot">In heraldic language, +"argent, à l'aigle de sable éployée à +deux têtes, becquée et membrée de gueules, à la cotice de +gueules mise en bande, brochant sur le tout, ce qui semble +être une brisure de cadet."</note>), with a commemorative inscription +in gold letters:—</p> + +<lg rend="display; text-align: center"> +<l><q rend="pre">Cy: gist: le cueur: de</q></l> +<l>Missire: bertram: du gueaquī</l> +<l>en: son vivāt: conētiable de</l> +<l>france: qui: trepassa: le: xiii^e</l> +<!--FIXME: atm, there is no way to get superscripts except with Unicode U0300--> +<l>jour: de: jullet: l'an: mil iii^e</l> +<l>IIII^xx dont: son: corps: repos</l> +<l>avecques: ceulx: des: Roys</l> +<l><q rend="post">a sainct: denis en France.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Above hangs a painting representing the Governor +of Châteauneuf Randon, laying the keys of the +town upon the dead body of the Constable.<note place="foot"> +The Governor of Châteauneuf Randon (Dép. Lozère) +had promised Du Guesclin he would surrender the place if +relief did not arrive in fourteen days. The morning dawned, +and no help had come. Du Guesclin lay dead, and the governor +refused to give up the keys to any but to him. At noontide, +the gates of the city were thrown open, and the governor +issued forth at the head of the garrison, traversed the army at +the sound of trumpets, and entered the tent where the body +of the dead hero lay, on a table covered with flowers, and surrounded +by the chiefs of the army. The governor knelt beside +the corpse, and reverently placed the keys on the coffin. +"Thus," he said, "I fulfil my promise, and keep faith to thee, +oh noble Du Guesclin, even in death."</note></p> +<pb n="052"/><anchor id="Pg052"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image13.jpg"> + <head>13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Many of the streets of Dinan preserve the character +of the Middle Ages, the houses upon columns +forming a kind of porch or covered way; and most +curious of all is the dirty, steep, narrow, winding +street, called the Rue de Jerzual, a ravine extending +from the top of the town, in one pitch, to the river's +edge. The Museum at the Mairie has an interesting +collection of tumulary slabs—recumbent figures +<pb n="053"/><anchor id="Pg053"/> +taken from different churches and abbeys, mostly +from the Beaumanoir chapel of the Abbey of +Lehon. There is one of Jean de Beaumanoir, son +of the hero of the "Combat des Trente," treacherously +slain by his steward. He is represented in +full armour, but with his head bare, to indicate the +manner of his death. The effigy of his wife is also +in complete armour, but on the belt that encircles her +waist, like those worn by the knights, is sculptured +a wreath of roses. She was a Du Guesclin by birth, +and her feet repose upon an eagle, the bearing of +her house. The statue of Roland, Vicomte de +Dinan, one of the nine great Barons of Brittany +in the twelfth century, is of gigantic proportions; +the warrior is clad from head to foot in chain mail, +but he holds one of his gauntlets in his hand. In +the Museum is also a clock given to the city of +Dinan by the Duchess Anne, inscribed with the +name of its maker and the date of its construction: +"1498, à Nantes par M. Hainzer de cette ville." +The ancient bronze standard measures (étalons) of +Dinan are decorated with the arms of the City, and +Gothic inscriptions in relief, "Cart (quart) à gros +blé pour Dinan"—"Cart à fourmant (froment) pour +Dinan"—and "Bouesceau à scel (boisseau à sel) +pour Dinan." Portraits of Du Guesclin and other +Breton worthies are in one of the rooms (Salle de +l'Odéon). That of the Constable answers to the +<pb n="054"/><anchor id="Pg054"/> +description given of his appearance. He was low +in stature, with large Breton head, broad shoulders, +long arms, and large hands. His eyes were green, +and his complexion swarthy: "la peau noire comme +un sanglier."</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 14. Château of La Bellière.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image14.jpg"> + <head>14. Château of La Bellière.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The drives round Dinan are endless in variety,<note place="foot"> +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Tel est Dinan, la ville aux sites poétiques,</q></l> +<l>Aux coteaux escarpés, aux vallons romantiques;</l> +<l>Qui, gracieuse, élève, au milieu des vergers,</l> +<l>Ses remparts tout couverts de jardins et d'ombrage,</l> +<l>Son château crénelé, monument d'un autre age,</l> +<l rend="right"><q rend="post">Et les dômes de ses clochers.</q>—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Aubry</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg></note> +and all beautiful. We took a carriage to see the +Château of la Bellière, about five miles and a half +from Dinan, formerly the residence of Du Guesclin's +<pb n="055"/><anchor id="Pg055"/> +wife, the celebrated Lady Tiphaine; her name +answers probably to our English Tiffany:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">William de Coningsby—</q></l> +<l>Came out of Brittany</l> +<l>With his wife Tiffany</l> +<l>And her maid Manifas</l> +<l><q rend="post">And his doggs Hardigras.</q></l> +</lg> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 15. Chimney. Château of La Bellière.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image15.jpg"> + <head>15. Chimney. Château <lb />of La Bellière.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The Lady Tiphaine was heiress and daughter of the +Vicomte de Bellière; so deeply versed was she in +astrology, she was called Tiphaine la Fée. During +her husband's absence in Spain, she resided at Mont +Saint Michel, having chosen this insulated spot for +the facilities it afforded her of studying the stars. +She gave Du Guesclin a calendar on vellum, containing +verses at the beginning of each month, +pointing out the lucky and unlucky days; how +many she marked down as such, we know not. +Tycho Brahe had thirty-two fatal days in his calendar. +Had Du Guesclin consulted this precious volume, +which is now preserved in the Library at Avranches, +he would never have risked his fortune by fighting +the battle of Auray on the Feast of St. Michel, one +of the fatal days against which she specially warns +him in her book. We wished to have seen the +room where she died, and where many memorials +of her are preserved; but the proprietor was at his +déjeuner, and would not grant us admittance, so +we were forced to be content with seeing the exterior +<pb n="056"/><anchor id="Pg056"/> +of the house, a château of the end of the fourteenth +century. It stands on the edge of a large sheet of +water, in the midst of trees on the roadside +between Dinan and St. Malo. Its +principal characteristics are its tall octagonal +chimney-shafts, composed of +granite, brick, and slate. They are +surmounted by pieces of slate placed +edgeways and forming a kind of capital +or coronet to the granite shaft. Some +of the chimneys have two circles of +these coronets, and others are enriched +with little rows of arches, of which the +sombre slate background throws out +the delicate ornamentation. Recrossing +the magnificent viaduct, we proceeded +to visit the Benedictine Priory of Lehon, +called in the country "Chapelle des Beaumanoirs" +from the mortuary chapel of that family attached +to the abbey:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Beaumanoir! à ce nom de glorieux prodiges</q></l> +<l>Des siècles écoulés réveillent les prestiges:</l> +<l>La pierre des tombeaux a paru se mouvoir</l> +<l>Et des trente Bretons les clameurs belliqueuses</l> +<l>Semblent répondre, sous ces voûtes fameuses,</l> +<l><q rend="post">A ce grand nom de Beaumanoir.</q> +—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Aubry</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>The west front, with its round-arched portal surmounted +by a large Gothic window, is very pretty. +The chapel of the Beaumanoirs was ravaged at +<pb n="057"/><anchor id="Pg057"/> +the Revolution, the lead of the coffins sold, and +the bones scattered. The statues have since been +removed to the Museum at Dinan, and the crypt +beneath, where they were buried, is inaccessible. +At the Revolution, when the monks were expelled, +the priory was sold and used for a spinning factory; +and the weight of the machines crushed the floors, +so as to shut up the entrance to the vaults. In the +parish church adjacent, is to be noticed an ancient +baptismal font, of cylindrical form, sculptured +within and without. We returned home by the +Château du Chêne-Ferron, approached by an avenue +of firs, and had a lovely drive along the banks of +the Rance.</p> + +<p>Our last excursion in Dinan was to the Château +of La Garaye, rendered famous by the virtues and +boundless charity of its last proprietors, Count +Claude Toussaint Marot de la Garaye and his wife, +whose interesting story is told in the charming poem +of Mrs. Norton:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Listen to the tale I tell,</q></l> +<l>Grave the story is—not sad,</l> +<l>And the peasant plodding by</l> +<l>Greets the place with kindly eye,</l> +<l><q rend="post">For the inmates that it had.</q></l> + +<l rend="right"><bibl> + <author rend="smallcaps">The Lady of La Garaye.</author> +</bibl></l></lg> + +<p>Count Claude de la Garaye and his wife were young, +beautiful, and endowed with friends, riches, and all +<pb n="058"/><anchor id="Pg058"/> +that could make life bright and happy. They entertained +with hospitality, and enjoyed the pleasures +and amusements of the world; when one day the +Countess was thrown from her horse, the expectations +of an heir vanished, and she was left a cripple +for life. Both were inconsolable for their +disappointment. One day a monk came to visit them, +and tried to comfort them, seeking by his converse +to turn their thoughts from earthly affections to +heavenly consolation—</p> + +<p>"Ah! my father," said the lady, "how happy are +you, to love nothing on earth!"</p> + +<p>"You are mistaken," answered the monk; "I love +all those who are in sorrow or suffering, and I submit +myself to the will of the Almighty, and bend myself +with resignation to every blow He strikes."</p> + +<p>He proceeded to show them there was still great +happiness in store for them, in ministering to the +comforts of others. Following his counsel, they +went to Paris; for three years the Count studied +medicine and surgery, and his wife became a +skilful oculist. On their return to La Garaye, they +gave up all the amusements of society, and devoted +themselves to relieving the sufferings of their +fellow creatures. Their house was converted into +an hospital for the sick and the wounded, under +the ministering care of the Count and his benevolent +wife:—</p> +<pb n="059"/><anchor id="Pg059"/> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Her home is made their home; her wealth their dole;</q></l> +<l>Her busy courtyard hears no more the roll</l> +<l>Of gilded vehicles, or pawing steeds,</l> +<l>But feeble steps of those whose bitter needs</l> +<l>Are their sole passport. Through that gateway pass</l> +<l>All varying forms of sickness and distress,</l> +<l>And many a poor worn face that hath not smiled</l> +<l>For years,—and many a feeble crippled child,—</l> +<l>Blesses the tall, white portal where they stand,</l> +<l><q rend="post">And the dear Lady of the liberal hand.</q></l> + +<l rend="right"><bibl> + <author rend="smallcaps">The Lady of La Garaye.</author> +</bibl></l></lg> + +<p>Nor was their philanthropy confined to their own +province. In 1720, they offered themselves to M. +de Belzunce—"Marseilles' good bishop"—to assist +him during the visitation of the Plague. The fame +of their virtues reached even the French Court, and +Louis XV. sent Count de la Garaye the order of St. +Lazarus with a donation of 50,000 livres and a contract +on the post of 25,000 more.</p> + +<p>They both died at an advanced age, within two +years of each other, and were buried among their +poor at Taden, but their marble mausoleum in the +church was destroyed in the French Revolution. +Count de la Garaye<note place="foot">Count Claude died +in 1755, at the age of eighty-one. The +countess in 1757, at seventy-six.</note> left a large sum to be distributed +among the prisoners, principally English, at Rennes +and Dinan, who were suffering pent up in these +crowded gaols. The Comte had attended the +English prisoners at Dinan during a contagious +<pb n="060"/><anchor id="Pg060"/> +fever, called the "peste blanche," and, in acknowledgment +of his humanity, Queen Caroline sent him +two dogs with silver collars round their necks, and an +English nobleman made him a present of six more.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 16. Château of La Garaye.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image16.jpg"> + <head>16. Château of La Garaye.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The ruined château is approached by an ivy-covered +gateway, through an avenue of beeches:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Le lierre flottant comme un manteau de deuil,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Couvre à demi la porte et rampe sur le seuil.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl> + <author rend="smallcaps">Lamartine</author>, + <title rend="italic">Harmonies Poëtiques</title>. +</bibl></l></lg> + +<p>or, as Mrs. Norton renders it:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">And like a mourner's mantle, with sad grace,</q></l> +<l>Waves the dark ivy—hiding half the door</l> +<l>And threshold, where the weary traveller's foot</l> +<l><q rend="post">Shall never find a courteous welcome more.</q></l> +</lg> +<pb n="061"/><anchor id="Pg061"/> +<p>It is fast falling to pieces. The principal part +remaining is an octagonal turret of three stories, +with elegant Renaissance decoration round the windows. +One more quotation from Mrs. Norton, and +we quit these hallowed ruins:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">We know the healthy stir of human life</q></l> +<l>Must be for ever gone!</l> +<l>The walls where hung the warrior's shining casque</l> +<l>Are green with moss and mould;</l> +<l>The blindworm coils where Queens have slept, nor asks</l> +<l>For shelter from the cold.</l> +<l>The swallow,—he is master all the day,</l> +<l>And the great owl is ruler through the night;</l> +<l>The little bat wheels on his circling way,</l> +<l>With restless flittering flight;</l> +<l>And that small bat, and the creeping things,</l> +<l>At will they come and go,</l> +<l>And the soft white owl with velvet wings,</l> +<l>And a shout of human woe!</l> +<l>The brambles let no footsteps pass</l> +<l>By that rent in the broken stair,</l> +<l>When the pale tufts of the windle-strae grass</l> +<l>Hang like locks of dry dead hair;</l> +<l>But there the keen sound ever sweeps and moans,</l> +<l><q rend="">Working a passage through the mouldering stones.</q></l> + +<l rend="right"><bibl> + <author rend="smallcaps">The Lady of La Garaye.</author> +</bibl></l></lg> + +<p>From Dinan, instead of taking the customary +road to the railway station of Caulnes, we hired +a carriage, in order to visit the fortress castle of +La Hunaudaye, midway between Dinan and Lamballe. +The road lay by Jugon, a town prettily +situated in the cleft of two hills. On one once +<pb n="062"/><anchor id="Pg062"/> +stood an important castle, which gave rise to the +saying:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Qui a Bretagne sans Jugon,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">A chape sans chaperon.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Jugon is on the edge of two ponds. One of +them, the largest in Brittany, hangs suspended over +the town, as if threatening it with inundation. They +told us it was swarming with fish of every description, +and with pike of fabulous dimensions. Turning +off the road to the right, we entered the forest of +La Hunaudaye, and walked in a pouring rain to the +château, situated a short distance from the road. It +is of vast extent, has five round towers with ramparts +of cut stone, and is surrounded by walls with +machicolated parapets. It is a splendid ruin, but +the incessant rain prevented us from spending much +time in its examination. It was built in the thirteenth +century by Olivier de la Tournemine, and +was one of the strongest fortresses in Brittany. +Situated in the midst of a vast forest, its lord and +his retainers were the terror of the surrounding +country. No traveller passed untaxed; all were +compelled to pay toll. In 1504, the Bishop of +St. Brieuc complains to the Parliament at Rennes +that, regardless of the safeguard of the Duke, the +foresters of the Lord of La Hunaudaye had carried +off his horses, trunks, and baggage, and, a year +later, they had the audacity to stop the Queen-Duchess +<pb n="063"/><anchor id="Pg063"/> +Anne on her way to a pilgrimage to the +Folgoët. The Queen was conducted to the presence +of the Lord of La Hunaudaye, who maintained +to her that he had only exercised his right of +exacting a ransom from all who passed through the +forest without his permission, but that he waived his +privilege in favour of his Sovereign. Be that as it +may, he received her Majesty most royally, as the +old chaplain, Oliver de la Roche recounts, and gave +a splendid banquet, which he fully describes. The +table, he says, was four times covered with thirty-six +dishes of viands, and lastly, was brought in, "en +grande vénération," by eight squires, a whole calf, +standing on its legs, well seasoned, with an orange +in its mouth; and, when it appeared, the trumpets +sounded so loud that it seemed as if the walls shook. +On seeing the "dainty dish" that was "set before +the Queen," all wished to have a share; and the +chaplain relates, with great satisfaction, how he was +served himself twice by the Lord of La Hunaudaye.</p> + +<p>The dark deeds of the lords of La Hunaudaye +have given rise to many a legend. The following is +a translation of one of the most popular:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><bibl><title rend="smallcaps; text-align: center">Legend of La Hunaudaye.</title></bibl></l> +<l rend="italic; margin-left:4">(Translation.)</l> +<lg> +<l><q rend="pre">When the rock eagle wakes,</q></l> +<l>And the towers of Hunaudaye</l> +<l>Gleam like three phantom forms</l> +<l>In the morning's sunlight ray;</l> +<pb n="064"/><anchor id="Pg064"/> +<l>When night her darksome wing</l> +<l>Folds round this desert waste,</l> +<l>Shun all this cursed ground—</l> +<l>Traveller flee thou in haste.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">There once—Great Heaven shield</q></l> +<l>Us all! and no ill arise—</l> +<l>There once—Hush! leave me not;</l> +<l>Hear you, from the ground, low sighs?—</l> +<l>There once—wrapped in the gloom</l> +<l>Of a dark and rainy night,</l> +<l>A man of haughty mien</l> +<l>Knocked at the door of might.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">'Open!' cried he,—it turns</q></l> +<l>On groaning hinge. The rain</l> +<l>Pours, but the frightened guards</l> +<l>Mark neither spot nor stain</l> +<l>On his purple cloak—nor his plumes</l> +<l>Droop wet, yet the torrents fall</l> +<l>Wildly and fast to night,</l> +<l>Beating the castle wall.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">The baron, stern and sad,</q></l> +<l>Was in his tower alone,</l> +<l>Pacing, with mailed heel,</l> +<l>Upon the echoing stone:</l> +<l>Cried he—'What stranger seeks,</l> +<l>This hour, my castle drear?</l> +<l>Ho! Oliver, Ho! Ralph,</l> +<l>See who intrudeth here.'</l> +</lg><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">'Heaven shield thee, baron brave!</q></l> +<l>A strange knight in the hall</l> +<l>Craves audience.' 'Lead him here:</l> +<l>Stay thou and Ralph in call,</l> +<l>At need.' Silent and slow</l> +<l>The purple-mantled knight,</l> +<l>Advancing, paused—his looks</l> +<l>Gleaming unearthly bright.</l> +</lg> +<pb n="065"/><anchor id="Pg065"/> +<lg> +<l><q rend="pre">'Who art thou coming thus,</q></l> +<l>Loud clamouring at my gate,</l> +<l>Thou truly puissant knight,</l> +<l>With not one squire for state?</l> +<l>Knowst thou at word of mine—'</l> +<l>The stranger knight smiled stern,</l> +<l>Replied in awful voice,</l> +<l>'Would'st thou my name? now learn:</l> +<l>Here is my train—behold!'</l> +<l>He cried. There hideous stood</l> +<l>One spectre, then two more—</l> +<l>A sight to chill the blood—</l> +<l>Unveiled their features pale,</l> +<l>All three in cere-cloth dressed,</l> +<l>Opening all wide to point</l> +<l>Where blood flowed from the breast.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">'Baron, these are my guard,'</q></l> +<l>Said the unknown—'Here, lo!</l> +<l>Thy father's aged form,</l> +<l>By poignard stroke laid low;</l> +<l>Here thy wife, cruelly slain</l> +<l>In the year thy brother fell;</l> +<l>They stand, pale, bleeding, stiff,—</l> +<l>Their murderer, can'st thou tell?'</l> +</lg><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">The phantoms three enlaced</q></l> +<l>The trembling baron round;</l> +<l>He vainly shrieked,—the walls</l> +<l>With demon laughs resound;</l> +<l>The echoing thunders rolled</l> +<l>Along the valley deep;</l> +<l>Lightnings, when pale dawn broke,</l> +<l>Blasted the castle keep.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l><q rend="pre">It stands a blackened pile;</q></l> +<l>The ruined gate is there.</l> +<l>But the sky lowers dark,</l> +<l>Oh! traveller flee, beware;</l> +<pb n="066"/><anchor id="Pg066"/> +<l>At this hour the shades of night</l> +<l>Brood o'er the solemn gloom.</l> +<l>Traveller, haste, oh! haste;</l> +<l><q rend="post">Leave this abode of doom.</q></l> +</lg></lg> + +<p>It was in the forest of La Hunaudaye that the +Chouans of the Côtes du Nord were secretly exercised +and drilled by their chief, La Rouërie, under +the name of Gosselin, who died of horror on hearing +of the execution of thirteen of his confederates +betrayed by the physician Chaftal. Gosselin was +succeeded by the "Cid" of the Chouan chiefs, Boishardy, +called the "Sorcier," who, after his interview +with General Humbert, was betrayed and shot by +the "Bleus." For twelve years was Brittany cut off +from France by this Chouan war, an insurrection +even more formidable than that of La Vendée. The +peninsular position of Brittany, its vast extent of +coasts, its forests, its mountains, its people, speaking +a strange language, entirely under the subjection of +the priests, rendered it peculiarly adapted to carry +on a war against the republicans; a war, the whole +object of which was to upset all order, by preventing +the citizens from accepting office under the republic, +by punishing those who acquired national property, +by stopping couriers and all public conveyances, +destroying bridges, breaking up roads, assassinating +public officers, and executing horrible punishments +on those who sent provisions into the towns.</p> +<pb n="067"/><anchor id="Pg067"/> + +<p>The castle of La Hunaudaye was destroyed by +order of the Commune of Lamballe, in 1793, that it +might not serve as a retreat for the Chouans.</p> + +<p>We arrived very wet at Lamballe, a town most +picturesquely situated on the declivity of a granite +cliff, surmounted by a handsome church, rising from +the very edge of the rocks. It formed part of the +territory of the Duke of Penthièvre, whose heiress, +Jeanne la Boiteuse, married Charles of Blois, the +competitor with John de Montfort<note place="foot"> +It may appear almost superfluous to refer to the cause of +the War of Succession, which for twenty years devastated +Brittany, and brought the armies of France and England +into the duchy. John III. died in 1341, leaving no children. +He had a brother Guy, Comte de Penthièvre, and a half-brother, +John de Montfort. Charles left the succession to +Charles de Châtillon, Comte de Blois, nephew of Philip +Augustus, King of France, who had married Jeanne, the only +daughter and heiress of Guy; but his half-brother, John de +Montfort, seized the duchy. The decision was referred to the +King of France, who gave it in favour of his relation Charles +of Blois. De Montfort sought the protection of the King of +England, whom he acknowledged as King of France, and +Edward III. readily gave him his support. It became no +longer the dispute of a province, but of two mighty nations, in +which the Kings of France, England, and Navarre took part, +and which was illustrated by the names of Chandos, Manny, +Du Guesclin and Clisson. The Bretons on the east of the +province sided with the French prince, those of the promontory +with the son of de Montfort. The battle of Auray, 1364, +decided the war in favour of De Montfort, but the contest +did not finally cease till the marriage of Anne de Bretagne to +Charles VIII. united the duchy to the French crown. +</note> for the dukedom +<pb n="068"/><anchor id="Pg068"/> +of Brittany. More tenacious of her rights than her +husband, Jeanne would never listen to any compromise. +After the treaty of Bretigny, the kings of +England and France proposed a division of the +duchy between the two rivals; but, intimidated by +his wife, Charles dared not consent; and again, +before the battle of Auray, when a division was +agreed upon, subject to the acceptance of the Countess, +Jeanne exclaimed, "My husband makes too +cheap a bargain of what is not his own." And she +wrote to Charles, "Do what you please. I am a +woman, and cannot do more; but I had rather lose +my life, or two if I had them, before I would consent +to so reproachable an act, to the shame of my +family" (<hi rend="italic">des miens</hi>). Later she said to him, "Preserve +me your heart, but preserve me also my duchy, +and, happen what may, act so that the sovereignty +remains to me entire." Her pride and obstinacy +cost her husband his life. The name of Lamballe +is associated with the memory of the unfortunate +Princesse de Savoie de Carignan, the sad victim of +revolutionary fury. On the death of her husband, +the Prince de Lamballe, the vast estates of the +Penthièvre family passed to his sister, the wife of +Philippe Egalité, and from her descended to Louis +Philippe, King of the French.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 17. Section of Lanleff Church.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image17.jpg"> + <head>17. Section of Lanleff Church.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Next day we made an excursion to the famed +Temple of Lanleff, in Breton, the "land of tears," +<pb n="069"/><anchor id="Pg069"/> +situated in a retired valley about six miles from the +sea. According to the tradition of the country, it +was built by "Les moines rouges," as they style the +Templar Knights. The road was incessantly up +and down hill, as we afterwards found they are +throughout Brittany; a "pays accidenté" it may +be truly called. The chapel of Lanleff is composed +of two concentric circular enclosures separated by +twelve round arches, with cushion-shaped capitals, +having heads, human and animal, rudely sculptured +upon them at the four angles. Its whole diameter +is about twenty-two feet. It was probably built +by some Templar Knight in the beginning of the +twelfth century on his return from the Holy Land. +The number of arches may allude to that of the +twelve Apostles.</p> +<pb n="070"/><anchor id="Pg070"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 18. Plan of Lanleff Church.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image18.jpg"> + <head>18. Plan of Lanleff Church.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The parish church was built into the east side of +the temple, the only part which has preserved its +roof, and which served as a +vestibule to the more modern +building. A gigantic yew +formerly grew in the central +enclosure, and overshadowed +it with its spreading branches; +but the parish church has +been taken down and rebuilt +in another part of the village, +and the yew-tree has disappeared.</p> + +<p>Close to the temple is a spring enclosed by flagstones. +When moistened, they appear covered with +blood-stained spots. According to the tradition, in +olden times an unnatural father sold his child to the +Evil One. The gold received for the bargain was +counted out upon the side of the spring, and the +accursed money left its print upon the stones. A +bare-legged peasant who stood by with her pitcher, +threw some water over the stones, and immediately +there appeared round red spots of different sizes—indelible +marks of the diabolical bargain. We went +into a cottage close by, and had some boiled eggs +and cider. The inmates were at their meal—a bowl +of milk, into which they broke their buckwheat +"galette." We were much struck with the jealous +<pb n="071"/><anchor id="Pg071"/> +pertinacity of the Breton, to show he considers himself +as of a different people and country to the rest +of France, a feeling which more than three hundred +years has not dissipated. Our driver would talk of +Bretons and French as of distinct nations, and the +Normans in this part of Brittany are the special +objects of hatred, originating, perhaps, in the former +subjection of Brittany to Normandy. When Charles +the Simple ceded to the fierce Northmen the province +now known by their name, their sovereignty +extended over Brittany, and the dukes of Normandy +did homage for both provinces to the King of +France. The Bretons struggled hard against the +supremacy of the Barbarians, but eventually had +to acknowledge the Duke of Normandy as their +sovereign lord.</p> + +<p>St. Brieuc, principal town of the department of +the Côtes-du-Nord, has been described as an old +town with a new face. Though one of the oldest in +Brittany, it has little of antiquity to detain the traveller. +The Palais de Justice is a handsome building, +in the midst of a pretty garden, commanding a +view of the Tour de Cesson, lower down the river +(the Gouët), a large circular tower built by Duke +John IV., and blown up by Henry IV., at the +desire of the Briochins, as the inhabitants of St. +Brieuc style themselves. The mine split it in two, +and the part that remains serves as a landmark for +<pb n="072"/><anchor id="Pg072"/> +the pilots between St. Brieuc and its port, about +two miles distant, called Légué. Notre Dame +d'Espérance is a pretty church, rebuilt about ten +years since, with a calvary in front, and a series of +painted windows representing the principal saints +of Brittany, and the most celebrated pilgrimages of +the Virgin in that province. At St. Brieuc, 1689, +James II. of England reviewed his little army, and +was received with royal honours by the bishop of +the place.</p> + +<p>We proceeded by the railway to Guingamp, next +to St. Brieuc, the principal town of the department, +capital of the duchy of Penthièvre. It is situated +in the richly wooded and cultivated valley of the +Trieux, a favourite fishing river of considerable size, +and affording trout, salmon, and dace, from Guingamp +to Paimpol, where it falls into the sea, a distance +of twenty miles. It runs through the centre +of the town, and is here a considerable stream.</p> + +<p>Attached to the Cathedral is the venerated sanctuary +of Notre Dame-du-Bon-Secours, one of the +most celebrated places of pilgrimage in Brittany. +The pardon takes place the Saturday before the first +Sunday in July, and owes its origin to the brotherhood +called the "Frérie blanche," an association of +which Duke Peter accepted the title of lay-abbot. +The motto embroidered on their banner was (in +Breton) "A triple cord is not easily broken." The +<pb n="073"/><anchor id="Pg073"/> +triple cord being emblematic of the three estates—clergy, +nobles, and laity—in whose unity consisted +the strength of Brittany. The Frérie blanche no +longer exists, the triple cable is broken, the pilgrimage +alone remains.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 19. Fountain of Duke Peter.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image19.jpg"> + <head>19. Fountain of Duke Peter.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>La Pompe, or the fountain of Duke Peter, as it is +<pb n="074"/><anchor id="Pg074"/> +called, is of later dater date, being in the style of the +Renaissance. It consists of three circular basins in +tiers. On the lower are sea-horses, which, with their +wings, support the second basin, and Naiads uphold +the third. On the top is a figure of the Virgin with +her arms extended.</p> + +<p>The women of Guingamp wear high muslin caps, +dark petticoats, and black stockings. Knitting-pins +in hand, they work away at their stockings whether +walking, talking, or with a load of butter on their +heads, as they do throughout all Brittany. When +not at work, their knitting-pins are stuck in their +hair. Knitting and spinning are the occupation of +their lives. When the Breton's idol, Du Guesclin, +was a prisoner to the Black Prince, and was asked how +he could raise the large sum named for his ransom, +Du Guesclin replied, that "the women of Brittany +would rather spin for a year and ransom him with +their distaffs, than that he should remain prisoner."</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Quand vous étiez captif, Bertrand, fils de Bretagne,</q></l> +<l>Tous les fuseaux tournaient aussi dans la campagne;</l> +<l>Chaque femme apporte son écheveau de lin;</l> +<l><q rend="post">Ce fut votre rançon, messire Du Guesclin!</q></l> + +<l rend="right"><bibl> + <title rend="italic">Les Bretons</title>, + <author rend="smallcaps">A. Brizeux</author>. +</bibl></l></lg> + +<p>Guingamp was given by Duke John V. to his son +Peter, who resided here and rebuilt the castle. When +attacked by his mortal illness, the physicians attributed +his malady to witchcraft, and declared it could +<pb n="075"/><anchor id="Pg075"/> +only be remedied by counter-spells. The Prince +refused to have recourse to such means, saying, +"I had rather die by the will of God, than live by +the will of the Devil."—"J'aime mieux mourir de +par Dieu, que de vivre de par le Diable."</p> + +<p>We walked to the small chapel of St. Léonard, +picturesquely situated on a little eminence. It was +built by Charles of Blois, on his return from his +captivity in England, and dedicated by him to St. +Léonard, the patron-saint of prisoners—a contemporary +of Clovis, from whom he obtained permission +to set free all the captives he should find in the +prisons. In the month of May, people who are +attacked with fever repair to St. Léonard to seek, +upon the walls of the chapel or on the calvary +attached to it, snails as cures for their malady. +They must gather them themselves, pound them, +and put them into little bags, which they wear round +their necks. As soon as the fever leaves them they +bury their bags at the foot of the walls of the chapel, +and, if they fail to perform this ceremony, the fever +will return. We found quantities of these bags, +made of coarse linen, lying half-buried under the +walls of the chapel. There is a pardon here every +year, on which occasion only the chapel is opened.</p> + +<p>We took a carriage to Paimpol. On our way we +stopped at the Château de Boisgelin, belonging to +the Marquis of the same name, but could not obtain +<pb n="076"/><anchor id="Pg076"/> +admittance. On to the Abbey of Beauport (Sancta +Maria de Bello Porto), founded in the thirteenth +century, beautifully situated on a tongue of land at +the entrance of the Bay of Paimpol, opposite the +island of Saint-Rion. In its large garden, which +extends down to the sea, are planted myrtles, figs, +mulberries, and other trees of the south of Europe. +Beauport has been called the Chartreuse of Brittany. +It is a lovely secluded spot, as, indeed, are most of +the sites of the old abbeys, varying in aspect, but +always beautiful. No description can give an idea +of the magnificent panoramic views from the walls +of the abbey.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 20. Abbey of Beauport.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image20.jpg"> + <head>20. Abbey of Beauport.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>M. Merimée justly observes, "It appears strange +that, in so early a stage of civilisation, the monks +should be so alive to the beauties of nature. The +contemplative habits of monastic life must at all +times have imparted to the mind a feeling of abstract +beauty, independent of any idea of real utility. Secure +of an uniform, peaceful existence, limited in +his pleasures and his ambition, sheltered by his sacred +office, above others, from the reverses of fortune, +the monk of the thirteenth century was in a position +to love, and did love, beauty for itself. And while +the knight, at war with all the world, thought only +on building an impregnable fortress, the abbot embellished +his dwelling, and tasted the enjoyments +afforded by imagination and the arts. "The abbey +<pb n="077"/><anchor id="Pg077"/> +<pb n="078"/><anchor id="Pg078"/> +<pb n="079"/><anchor id="Pg079"/> +of Beauport is built in the pointed style, and is a +perfect example of the monastic architecture of the +thirteenth century—the most important and most +beautiful convent ruins in Brittany. The original +disposition of its buildings may yet be clearly traced. +These abbeys were all built upon the same plan. +In the centre was the square garden (préau), surrounded +by the cloisters. On the south side the +church, extending from west to east; on the north, +the refectory, with the kitchen attached. On the +east was the chapter-house, and some small apartments; +above these were the dormitories. Outside +was the interior court, reserved for the brethren, and +beyond, the great court, into which the provisions +were brought, and round which were the stables and +farm buildings. The garden, orchard, mill, oven, +dovecote, cider-press, &c., were all within the walled +enclosure, for the abbeys were not merely convents +dedicated solely to devotional exercises. After prayer +followed labour. The Breton abbeys were quite +model farms; the woods and the commons afforded +the means of rearing cattle to those who had the +privilege of pasturage in the forests. Many had +also the right of acorns and beech-mast for their +pigs (<hi rend="italic">droit au gland et à la faîne</hi>). One abbey, +that of Morimond (Haute Marne), is recorded to +have had twenty piggeries, of three hundred pigs +each, distributed in its forests. The monks also +<pb n="080"/><anchor id="Pg080"/> +reared sheep and horses, and fattened fish in their +ponds. They were the first who advanced the +science of horticulture and the cultivation of vegetables. +To these agricultural pursuits were added, +in many convents, the industrial arts, and some of +the brethren were brewers, curriers, fullers, weavers, +shoemakers, carpenters, and blacksmiths. Their +cultivation of the liberal arts and sciences is well +known. During the Middle Ages the monasteries +were the sole depositories of learning. Beauport is +now occupied by a Polish lady, Countess Poninsky, +who allows no one to enter the abbey, as her husband +was buried in the church.</p> + +<p>Two or three miles further we reached Paimpol, +where we remained the night, at a nice hotel. +Paimpol is a seaport town prettily situated in a +cultivated country on the bay that bears its name. +Its inhabitants are employed in the mackerel +and Iceland fisheries. The women about here +wear close straw-bonnets. They all, in this department, +ride on horseback, "à califourchon," like +the men.</p> + +<p>We hired our carriage on to Tréguier. At +Lézardrieux we passed the estuary of the Trieux, +over a magnificent suspension-bridge, at a considerable +elevation above the water, vessels sail under it. +It was built 1840, and is 833 feet long, that is, 167 +longer than the famed bridge of La Roche Bernard +<pb n="081"/><anchor id="Pg081"/> +(Loire Inférieure). The bridge swung frightfully +when we passed over it. In the churchyard of +Pleudaniel is a pretty granite calvary, and skulls are +placed in recesses in the wall on each side of the +church-porch.</p> + +<p>We next came to the Château of La Roche +Jagu, on the summit of a hill overhanging the +river Trieux and defending the entrance. It has +more of the character of a "maison forte" than of +a "manoir," as was termed the habitation of a +knight, and of those who holding a fief, yet did +not possess the seignorial right to a castle with +towers and donjon. The manoir might be enclosed +by walls and moats, but not with towers. The entrance +on the side opposite to the river is through +a large walled court by a low Gothic doorway, +closed by an enormous iron grating of upright and +horizontal bars of great thickness, hanging on four +hinges, and secured by four locks; all the windows +have gratings of the same kind. A stone staircase +leads to the one story, consisting of a suite of large +rooms half lighted by narrow windows. Some of +these are occupied by the keeper of the castle and +others are reserved for the use of the proprietor, the +Marquis d'Argentré, and, when he goes there, are +decorated and partly furnished with the pieces of +old tapestry lying about. At the end of these +rooms is a turret, which communicates with a +<pb n="082"/><anchor id="Pg082"/> +covered gallery surmounting the whole length of the +façade facing the river, and commanding a beautiful +view of the windings of the silvery Trieux +and of its fir-clothed banks. This gallery is furnished +with battlements, and served the double +purpose of a rampart and an observatory. The +wall on the river-side is fifteen feet thick, and a +chapel hewn in the thickness of the wall is lighted +by a Gothic window looking over the Trieux. +Fourteen elegant chimney-shafts of cut stone, cylindrical +in form, and ornamented with iron spikes, +give a most original character to the building. +The château belonged to the Maréchal Duc de +Richelieu, who sold it in 1773 to the Tressan family, +under the stipulation that its subterranean passages +should not be explored. They are said to extend +under the bed of the river to the Château of Frinandour, +half a league distant.</p> + +<p>We next passed through Pontrieux, a pretty, +small town, seated in a deep valley, the river Trieux +flowing through it. The river here is famous for +salmon, and there is a considerable commerce in its +little port.</p> + +<p>La Roche-Derrien on the Jaudy, during the +War of Succession in Brittany, was a castle of some +celebrity. It was here Charles of Blois was taken +prisoner by the English, who, under Sir Thomas +Dagworth, were in possession of the place. Charles +<pb n="083"/><anchor id="Pg083"/> +of Blois assembled a large army, and attacked them +by night. Three times was he rescued, and three +times retaken; he had received eighteen wounds, +and was at last compelled to surrender. Jeanne de +Montfort, like all women who hate, was very vindictive, +and caused her illustrious prisoner to be +ignominiously dragged to Quimperlé, Vannes, and +Hennebont, whence he was transferred to London, +and confined in the Tower. It was nine years +before he regained his liberty. Meanwhile his +heroic wife, Jeanne de Penthièvre, became head of +his party, as Jeanne de Flandre was that of the +De Montfort. The "War of the two Jeannes" +continued for nine years, during which they fought +with fierceness and courage, and ruled with ability. +Curious,—the history of France was illustrated in +this century by five heroines of the name of Jeanne: +Jeanne d'Arc, Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais, and +the Jeannes of Penthièvre, Flandre, and Clisson, +who made themselves famous in Brittany. On his +release, Charles of Blois gave La Roche-Derrien to +Du Guesclin. The castle was demolished, but a +calvary has been built on the site.</p> + +<p>Not far from La Roche-Derrien is the church of +Langoat, which contains the monument of Ste. +Pompée (1370), mother of St. Tugdual. On the +granite tomb reposes her marble effigy, and around +it bas-reliefs in Gothic niches represent the life of the +<pb n="084"/><anchor id="Pg084"/> +saint. In all the churches in this district, tressels +are placed in the nave ready for funerals. The +gravestones have in each a little hollow well, to +contain water for sprinkling over the grave, or in +some a small basin is set upon the gravestone, with +a sprig of box laid by the side, for the same pious +purpose.</p> + +<p>Every one must be struck by the excellence of +the roads in Brittany, as indeed throughout France; +in no instance does the French administrative talent +more fully display itself. The roads are of three +classes: the "routes impériales," under the care of +the Government; "départementales," kept entirely +at the expense of the department; and the "chemins +vicinaux," which belong to the communes or +parishes, and which all the inhabitants are called +upon to support. To each lieue de poste (two and +a half miles), is appointed a "cantonnier" or road-keeper, +who is responsible for the condition of the +length of road assigned to his care.</p> + +<p>We stopped at Kermartin, a farmhouse near +Tréguier, to see the bed said to have belonged to +St. Ives, the favourite saint of the Bretons, and +whose name is borne by the majority of the inhabitants +of the district of Tréguier and St. Brieuc. +Charles of Blois held him in great veneration. He +gave part of a rib of St. Ives to the church at Lamballe, +and carried the relic in procession barefooted to +<pb n="085"/><anchor id="Pg085"/> +the church. Before the battle of Auray, he ordered +his men to march "in the name of God and St. +Yves."</p> + +<p>St. Ives, or Yves Hélory, was one of the most +remarkable characters of the thirteenth century. +He studied law in the schools of Paris, and applied +his talents in defending the cause of the poor; +hence he was called "the poor man's advocate;" +and so great to this day is the confidence placed in +his justice, that, in the department of the Côtes-du-Nord, +when a debtor falsely denies his debt, a +peasant will pay twenty sous for a mass to St. Yves, +convinced that St. Yves will cause the faithless +creditor to die within the year. His truthfulness +was such, he was called St. Yves de Verité. He is +the special patron of lawyers, and always represented +in the "mortier," or lawyer's cap, with an +ermine-trimmed scarlet robe.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Saint Yves était Breton,</q></l> +<l>Avocat et pas larron,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Chose rare, se dit-on.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Lawyers, says a writer, take him for a patron, but +not for a model. Philip le Hardi, in acknowledgment +of his worth, granted him a pension of six +deniers a day—in those times a considerable sum.</p> + +<p>Over this house is a marble tablet with this inscription:—</p> +<pb n="086"/><anchor id="Pg086"/> + +<p rend="small; text-align: center"> +<q rend="pre">Ici est né le 17 Oct^r 1253, et est mort le 19 Mai 1303,</q></p> + +<p rend="smallcaps; text-align: center">Saint Yves,</p> + +<p rend="small"> +<q rend="post">Officiel de Tréguier, curé de Tredretz et de Lohannec. Sa +maison, qui a subsisté jusqu'en l'année 1834, ayant été alors +demolie à cause de vetusté, Mg^r Hyacinthe Louis de Quelen, +Arch^vque de Paris, et propriétaire des domaines de Kermartin, +a fait placer cette inscription, afin qu'un lieu sanctifié par la +presence d'un si grand serviteur de Dieu ne demeurât pas +inconnu (1837).</q></p> + +<p>The house is a good specimen of a Breton dwelling; +by the side of the fire, in the one room of +which most of these cottages consist, fixed against +the wall like the berth of a ship, stands the bedstead +or "lit clos" of old oak, shut in by carved and +well-waxed sliding panels, often inscribed with the +sacred monogram. The two mattresses, paillasse, +and "cossette de plume," are piled up to such a +height as barely to admit of its tenants creeping into +the bed. In front is the customary chest, containing +the family wardrobe, answering the double purpose +of a seat and the means of ascending into the bed. +Often we have seen cupboards on each side of the +large chimney with two shelves, which served as +beds for the juvenile members of the family. Forms +and a polished table complete the furniture; the +last has frequently little wells hollowed in the top, +used, instead of plates, to hold the soup. Over the +table, suspended by pulleys, are two indispensable +articles in a Breton dwelling—a large circular basket +<pb n="087"/><anchor id="Pg087"/> +to cover the bread, and a kind of wooden frame +or rack, round which the spoons are ranged. Forks +they do not use. Festoons of sausages, with hams, +bacon, candles, skins of lard, onions, horse-shoes, +harness, all hang suspended from the ceiling, which +consists of fagots of hazel suspended by cross-poles. +The floor is of beaten earth. One narrow window +admits the light, and there are no outhouses. The +manure-heap is generally at the house-door, and +the pigs and poultry seem on an equally intimate +footing as they are in our Irish cabins. The +Breton's cottage has often no garden, to occupy his +leisure hours; and the men, after their daily work, +resort to the cabaret to spend their time and their +earnings. Agriculture is very backward in Brittany, +but the land produces abundance of corn. It +is thrashed out direct from the field, on a clay floor +(aire). Beet-root and clover grow very luxuriantly, +and in some fields the pretty red clover (<hi rend="italic">Trifolium +incarnatum</hi>) carpets the country with its crimson +flowers.</p> + +<p>Near the farmhouse of Kermartin is the parish +church of Minihy-Tréguier, formerly a chapel +founded by St. Ives and attached to the "manoir." +The will of St. Ives is framed and hung up in the +church, and his breviary is also preserved here; but +the guide said it was now kept at the priest's house, as +people were in the habit of taking away a leaf as a +<pb n="088"/><anchor id="Pg088"/> +relic. Minihy, <hi rend="italic">i. e.</hi> Monk's House, is a name given +to those places which, through the intercession of +some saint, had the right of sanctuary. They were +marked with a red cross, and, how great soever the +crime, were regarded as inviolable. In 1441 the +right of sanctuary was restricted to churches; +before, it was extended to towns and districts. +Tréguier had the privilege within a radius of twelve +miles from the town. St. Malo also possessed the +right of sanctuary. Tréguier is one of the four +bishoprics that formed the ancient divisions of +Brittany. The others were Léon, Cornouaille, and +Vannes. The "pays de Tréguier" answers exactly +to the present department of the Côtes-du-Nord; +Léon to the territory or arrondissement of Brest and +Morlaix; Cornouaille has Quimper and Carhaix +for its principal towns; and Vannes, the country of +Celtic remains, is to the south.</p> + +<p>Tréguier is prettily situated on a hill, at the confluence +of the rivers Jaudy and Guindy; its principal +building is the beautiful, imposing cathedral, with +its elegant spire, begun in the thirteenth century by +St. Yves, and dedicated to St. Tugdual, whose name, +like St. Yves, is often given in baptism to the +Breton children. St. Yves is buried here, and also +Duke John V., who founded the Chapelle du Duc, +and desired to be interred at the feet of St. Yves, +for whom he had a special regard, and to whom he +<pb n="089"/><anchor id="Pg089"/> +erected a magnificent tomb, for three centuries the +object of veneration in Brittany. The Duke paid +for it his own weight in silver (389 marks 7 oz.), +in 1424, to Maistre Jacques de Hougue. The victories +of his father John the Conqueror were chased +in bas-relief round the tomb, which was destroyed +in 1793. Duke John V. was a contemptible prince, +who eight times changed his party from weakness +rather than policy, and on whom Margaret de +Clisson and her sons retaliated the cowardly seizure +of her father, the Constable Clisson, by Duke +John IV. One of the towers of the cathedral is +called the tower of Hastings, but its date is evidently +subsequent to that of the Norman freebooter. The +cathedral has preserved its beautiful cloisters, the +work of the fifteenth century, although it has been +ravaged by the Normans of the ninth century, the +English in the fourteenth, the Spaniards in the sixteenth, +and by the Revolutionists of 1793. It was +the port chosen by the Constable Clisson, 1387, for +the invasion of England, an expedition proposed +and projected by himself. His hatred against the +English was so great, though educated in England, +he was termed the "boucher des Anglais." When +the Duke of Brittany gave Chandos the château +of Gavre, which was within a league of Clisson's +château of Blain (Loire Inférieure), "I will never," +he exclaimed, "be the neighbour of the English," +<pb n="090"/><anchor id="Pg090"/> +and accordingly he sallied out one morning and +burnt the castle to the ground. Chandos complained +to the Black Prince, who sent a letter of +remonstrance to Clisson, but it was only replied +by a challenge to the Prince to meet him in single +combat. Clisson caused his own ship to be built at +Tréguier, and had constructed a tower or framework +of large timber, to be put together on his +landing in England, for the lords to retreat to as +a place of safety, and to be lodged therein securely +in the event of a night attack. This tower, Froissart +says, was so constructed, that when dislodged +it could be taken to pieces, and many carpenters +and other workmen were engaged, at very high +wages, to go with it to England to superintend +the putting of it together. Four thousand men-at-arms +and 2000 cross-bowmen were in readiness +for the expedition, with horses, vessels laden with +wine, salted provisions, and other necessaries. All +these formidable preparations were rendered useless +by the arrest of the Constable the day before his +embarkation. We went to the Cemetery, which +has its ossuary, reliquary, or bone-house, an inseparable +appendage to a Breton churchyard. It is +the custom in Brittany, after a certain time, to dig +up the bones of the dead, and preserve their skulls +in little square boxes, like dog-kennels, with a +heart-shaped opening through which the skull is +<pb n="091"/><anchor id="Pg091"/> +visible. They are all ticketed with the names and +dates of the deceased, as "Ci gît le chef de * * * +D. c. D. (décédé) le * * * * *. Priez Dieu pour +son âme."</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 21. Skull-box.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image21.jpg"> + <head>21. Skull-box.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>These boxes sometimes occupy prominent places +inside the churches or porch, on window +sills, the capitals of columns, and +other ledges; but more often are +ranged in the ossuaries or charnel-houses +built in the churchyards to +receive them, with a row of death's-heads +carved in the stone outside. +The large bones are also placed in the ossuaire. The +rich are buried in "enfeux" or arched recesses in +the chapels or abbeys they have founded.</p> + +<p>We continued our carriage to Lannion, our driver +not very clear of his way, and in Brittany the road +is very difficult to be discerned; for on each side +are high earthen banks, sometimes eight or ten feet +high, and on the top of these are planted timber-trees, +such as oak, elm, and ash, which often meet +at the top, entirely intercepting the view, making +these narrow lanes a perfect slough and most intricate +to thread. Sometimes they are cut in irregular +steps in the solid rock, and serve for the bed +of a stream. Each field is also surrounded by these +hedgerow-trees, which are cut every four or five +years.</p> +<pb n="092"/><anchor id="Pg092"/> + +<p>We drove to Perros Guirec, a lovely little +watering-place built on a small promontory with a +safe harbour, whence wheat, hemp, and cattle are +exported to England; it is six miles from Lannion. +A dangerous rock, called Roche Bernard, is at its +entrance. The view is lovely. From Perros we +scrambled over a hilly cart-road to Ploumanach, +about three miles distant—a wonderful spot, huge +round erratic blocks of pink granite flung over land +and sea in the wildest confusion. The whole coast +is one sea of boulders, a chaos of rocks of all sizes +cover the soil in every direction, and in many +places there is no soil at all, and the loose masses +rest on a bare bed of rock, stretching, in unbroken +extent, to a great distance. "A wanderer," says +Mr. Trollope, "amid this strange and silent scene +might fancy himself the only living thing in the +midst of a world turned to stone. In every possible +variety of uncouth form and capricious, strange +positions, the endless masses were around us."</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">All is rocks at random thrown,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone."</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl> + <author rend="smallcaps">Lord of the Isles</author>. +</bibl></l></lg> + +<p>One rock, surrounded at high water by the tide, +is a square block of red granite of thirty to forty +feet high, placed on the top of a still higher mass, +on which it rests upon a very small base. It is +called the "Roche Pendue," and serves as a landmark +<pb n="093"/><anchor id="Pg093"/> +for the fishermen. We took a small boat +full of fish resembling codlings or small cod, called +"lieu," and were rowed by the fishermen through +a sea of granite boulders to the opposite side of the +Trégastel estuary, to see the "pierre pendue," or +rocking-stone (Breton, <hi rend="italic">rouler</hi>), the largest in Brittany. +These stones are so nicely poised that they +can be moved with the <corr sic="slighest">slightest</corr> impulse by any one +knowing the exact point at which to touch them. +They were used in early times as proving-stones, +and called "Pierres de verité."</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l rend="right"><q rend="pre">Firm as it seems,</q></l> +<l>Such is its strange and virtuous property,</l> +<l>It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch</l> +<l>Of him whose breast is pure; but to a traitor,</l> +<l>Though e'en a giant's prowess nerved his arm,</l> +<l><q rend="post">It stands as fixed as Snowdon.</q> +—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Mason</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>Or, as Sir Walter Scott alludes to them,—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l rend="margin-left: 2"><q rend="pre">Some, chance-poised and balanced, lay</q></l> +<l>So that a stripling arm might sway</l> +<l rend="margin-left: 2">A mass no host could raise,</l> +<l>In nature's rage at random thrown,</l> +<l>Yet trembling like the Druid's Stone,</l> +<l rend="margin-left: 2"><q rend="post">On its precarious base.</q> +—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Lord of the Isles.</author></bibl></l> +</lg> + +<p>The council of Nantes, in the seventh century, +ordered the bishops to have the rocking-stones +destroyed. The coarse rose-coloured granite of this +coast resembles the Egyptian.</p> + +<p>We rowed back to the little inn at Ploumanach, +<pb n="094"/><anchor id="Pg094"/> +and had some eggs and a hot langouste or rock-lobster. +This kind is more plentiful on the coast +of Brittany than the common, but these rocky +shores abound in both sorts. The village of Ploumanach +is built nearly into the sea, in the midst of +rocks overhanging the harbour. It is almost exclusively +frequented by fishermen; in the front is a +group of rocks or islands called Les Sept Iles; the +Ile aux Moines, the most important among them, +is strongly fortified, and is directly opposite Ploumanach. +At the inn we found a German artist +employed in making sketches in oil of this strange +coast. It was late when we reached Lannion, a +town prettily situated in the valley of Leguer; it +contains no remarkable buildings except a few +houses of the period of Henry IV. and Louis XIII. +in the market-place. The mackerel and other +fisheries are carried on from here, the grande and +petite pêche, the "lieu" is taken in shoals and salted. +The seaweed or wrack (<hi rend="italic">Fucus vesiculosus</hi>) called +goëmon, is extensively collected along the coasts of +Brittany for fertilising the lands and also for fuel, +which last is so scarce that even cow-dung is collected +and dried against the walls for the same use. The +gathering of goëmon takes place in March and September, +and employs the whole population of the +district. Souvestre says, that on the appointed day +for gathering the crop, horses, oxen, cows, dogs, +<pb n="095"/><anchor id="Pg095"/> +every animal, and every machine, is put into requisition. +Women and children all are assembled in +the bays, sometimes to the number of 10,000 +persons; but, to allow the poor to have the full +advantage, the custom is, on the first day, to admit +only the necessitous of the parish. These borrow +their neighbours' vehicles, and collect a good crop. +It is called "the day of the poor." The goëmon +grows on rocks at a distance from the shore, and +the peasants not having sufficient boats to collect it +tie the heaps together with cords on to branches of +trees and form a raft, on which the whole family is +launched; a barrel is attached at the end, and the +unsteady craft often rolls over and its cargo is +precipitated into the water. The fine sands of the +sea shore are also carted and laid on the heavy +lands to divide the soil. Ascending the valley of +the Leguer, about eight miles from Lannion, on the +opposite side of the river, we turned down a muddy +lane, and getting out into a field saw in front of us +the imposing castle of Tonquédec, perhaps the +finest remains in Brittany of military architecture, +dating from the fourteenth century. It crowns the +summit of a hill, wooded down to the river's edge, +with water-mills and a little village at the foot, the +bright sparkling river running through the deep +wild valley; nothing can exceed the picturesque +effect of these ruins when seen from the +<pb n="096"/><anchor id="Pg096"/> +opposite bank. Tonquédec has belonged from +time immemorial to the Viscomtes de Coêtmen, +who held the first rank among the nobles of +Brittany, but one of them espousing the cause +of the Constable Clisson against Duke John IV. +saw his fortress demolished. It was restored under +Henry IV., and again dismantled by order of +Cardinal Richelieu, who hated castles and their +nobility. The castle is an irregular four-sided +figure. It had an outer enclosure, and was entered +by a drawbridge, and furnished with every imaginable +fortification. Three sides were surrounded +by dwellings, among these a fine roofed salle d'armes +remains. A flying bridge led to the keep, which +was of four stories, but the entrance on the first +story, so that in case of siege the garrison might +retire to the keep, and hold out till want of provisions +or ammunition compelled them to surrender. +The towers and walls remain, the latter are ten feet +thick.</p> + +<p>On our way to Plouaret we drove up to the +château of Kergrist, a square edifice with pepper-box +towers at each angle, in good preservation, +occupied by a lady of the name of Douglas. Our +driver could not find the way to the "Chapelle des +Sept Saints," built over a dolmen, which lay near +the station at Plouaret, whence we proceeded by +rail, and, entering the department of Finistère, +<pb n="097"/><anchor id="Pg097"/> +shortly after reached Morlaix over its magnificent +granite viaduct, the most important among the +many which occur between Rennes and Brest. The +railway runs parallel to the coast, and traverses, not +far from their mouths, the streams which abound +in this "pays accidenté." This gigantic work is +one-sixth of a mile (292 yards) long, and consists +of two tiers of arches, fourteen in the upper line +and nine below.</p> + +<p>Morlaix is picturesquely built on the sides of +three ravines, so steep that the saying goes, "De la +mansarde au jardin, comme on dit à Morlaix." It is +situated on a tidal river, about eight miles from the +sea, ascended by small vessels, which give the place a +lively appearance. Few towns have so many beautiful +timbered houses of the fifteenth and sixteenth +centuries remaining. One of the most curious is that +belonging to a miller, No. 19, in the Rue des Nobles, +a street where the houses are built one story projecting +over the other, so that the top stories of the +opposite houses nearly touch each other and exclude +the light. The fronts, gable-shaped, have their +enormous beams richly carved, and supported by +brackets and statues of St. Yves or other favourite +saints; some are overlaid with lozenge-shaped slates, +and finished at the point with a leaden "épi," or +ornamental terminal. All have a kind of hall, +panelled and sculptured to the roof, the staircases +<pb n="098"/><anchor id="Pg098"/> +richly sculptured and supported by a pillar carved +from top to bottom with statues of saints or grotesque +figures superposed one over the other. +Among the statuettes in the house, No. 19, are the +figures of St. Roch and his dog; St. Christopher +carrying the infant Jesus, St. Michael, and various +others. On another staircase, in better preservation, +but not so richly carved (at the Veuve Perron's, No. +14, Grande Rue), are female saints,—the Virgin, St. +Catherine, and St. Barbara.</p> + +<p>Morlaix gave a grand reception to the Queen-Duchess +Anne, when on her pilgrimage through +Brittany in 1505. The town presented her with a +little ship of gold, bearing the arms of the city, and +enriched with precious stones, and a tame ermine +with a diamond collar round its neck. Anne +received the ermine, and caressed the little animal, +who returned her endearments, and, at length, +suddenly concealed itself in her bosom, which unexpected +proceeding startled the Queen, when the +Seigneur du Rohan, who was by her side, exclaimed, +"What do you fear, madam; is not the +ermine your cognisance?" No less enthusiastic +was the reception given by the citizens of Morlaix +forty years later (1548) to Mary Stuart, then only +five years old, on her landing in France. She was +lodged in the convent of the Jacobins, and assisted +at the Te Deum in the church of Notre Dame-du-Mur. +<pb n="099"/><anchor id="Pg099"/> +When passing through one of the gates +on her way back, the drawbridge, overloaded with +spectators, gave way, and several persons were +thrown into the water. Mary's Scottish attendants +cried out "Treason!" but the Seigneur de Rohan, +who was on horseback by the side of the royal +litter, indignantly exclaimed, "Jamais Breton ne +fit trahison." The loyalty and good faith of the +Bretons is proverbial. "En tout chemin, loyauté," +is a Breton motto,<note place="foot">E pess hænt lealdet!</note> +and it is one of the virtues attributed +to them by a Breton writer, who assigns to +them four virtues and three vices. Their virtues +consist in a love of their country and their home, +resignation to the will of the Almighty, loyalty to +each other, and hospitality. Their vices are avarice, +contempt for women, and drunkenness. Their love +of country and home is carried to an extent, +rivalling, if not exceeding, that of the Swiss. The +Breton not only loves the village where he was +born, but he loves the field of his fathers, the +hearth and the clock of his home, even the bed on +which he was born, and on which he hopes to close +his eyes. The conscript and sailor are often known +to die of grief when away from their native land. +Brittany possesses for its children an inconceivable +attraction, and there is no country in the +<pb n="100"/><anchor id="Pg100"/> +world where man is more attached to his native +soil.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">O landes! ô forêts! pierres sombres et hautes,</q></l> +<l>Bois qui couvrez nos champs, mers qui battez nos côtes,</l> +<l>Villages où les morts errent avec les vents,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Bretagne, d'où vient l'amour de tes enfants?</q> +—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux.</author></bibl></l> +</lg> + +<p>The Bretons are brave soldiers and good sailors; +their disposition is hasty and violent, and even +ferocious in anger. When the people of Nantes +rose up in rebellion against Duke Francis, his +brother-in-law, the Comte du Foix, sent to pacify +them, said to him on his return from his mission, +"J'aimerais mieux être prince d'un million de +sangliers que de tel peuple que sont vos Bretons"—Brittany +has always been the theatre of great virtues +and great crimes.</p> + +<p>On Sunday we went to the Welsh Baptist Chapel, +to hear Mr. Jenkins preach in the Breton language. +He has been there thirty years zealously labouring +among the peasants, to convert whom he was sent +by the Welsh Baptist Missionary Society. From +his thorough knowledge of the French and Breton +languages, he is eminently fitted for the task. He +travels about the surrounding country preaching, +and establishing schools, and has revised the Breton<note +place="foot">By Légonedec.</note> +translation of the New Testament for the Society, +and circulated, by means of colporteurs, from eight +<pb n="101"/><anchor id="Pg101"/> +to nine thousand Bibles, besides above 100,000 +tracts. The task of acquiring the Breton language +is less difficult for a Welshman, for the similarity +between them is so great that the two people are +able to make themselves understood to each other. +The labours of Mr. Jenkins have lately awakened the +attention of the Breton Roman Catholic clergy, who +have publicly denounced him from their altars, but +without causing him to slacken in the good work +he has undertaken. Persecuted by a tyrannical +priesthood, who hold dominion over a peasantry +bigoted in proportion to their ignorance, his position +is one of difficulty and danger; but he goes +on with undrooping energy, convinced that, though +the progress is slow, the good seed has not been +sown in vain, and will, in due time, bear fruit, +though those who first sowed it may have passed +away. There were about a dozen Bretons at the +evening service; they seemed to be constantly +going in and out, as if unable to keep up their +attention to so long a service. There are also +English Protestant chapels at Morlaix and Quimper, +and French at Brest and Lorient.</p> + +<p>We saw a christening in the cathedral, of a child +about eighteen months old; the mother wore a +wonderful conical cap of lace.</p> + +<p>A few houses from our hotel a ball was going on, +given every week for the workpeople of the town. +<pb n="102"/><anchor id="Pg102"/> +The clatter of their iron-pointed wooden shoes +seemed quite to drown the music.</p> + +<p>Next day we walked to the Fontaine des Anglais, +so-called from the slaughter of a body of English +at that place. Jealous of the prosperity of Morlaix, +Henry VIII. sent a fleet up the river to attack the +place, and the commander, being informed by a +spy of the absence of the chief nobles at Guingamp, +and of the townsmen at the fair of Pontivy, landed +with a force which entered Morlaix, burnt it, and +returned laden with booty to their boats. Six or +seven hundred men, who were intoxicated, fell +asleep in the wood, where they were attacked by the +nobles, who had hastened from Guingamp to +the assistance of the town, and were all massacred. +The neighbouring fountain, said to have been +tinged with the invaders' blood, received in memory +of the event the name of "Fontaine des Anglais." +It was on this occasion the town of Morlaix added +to its arms, a lion (emblem of vigilance), encountering +a two-headed leopard (for England), with the +punning motto, "S'ils te mordent, mors-les" +(Morlaix).</p> + +<p>Emile Souvestre, author of 'Le Foyer Breton,' +and 'Les Derniers Bretons,' the ablest portrayer of +Breton manners, customs, and superstitions, was a +native of Morlaix; he died in the Protestant Communion, +1854.</p> +<pb n="103"/><anchor id="Pg103"/> + +<p>We were recommended to sail down the Morlaix +River to its mouth, as the scenery is very picturesque, +but we had not time to effect it. The +great beauty of Brittany generally consists in its +river scenery, the Rance, to Dinan; the rivers of +Quimper and Quimperlé; the Aven, Elorn, and +Blavet, are all highly picturesque and worth visiting. +Our next drive was to St. Pol de Léon, partly along +the bank of the river, passing under the church of +Notre Dame-de-la-Salzette and the convent below +of St. François. The tall steeples of St. Pol are +seen at a great distance, and looking behind is the +best view of the Mené-Bré, an insulated conical +mountain, one of the Mené-Arré chain, situated +near the station of Belle-Isle-Bégard. A chain of +mountains runs through the Côtes-du-Nord, and, at +the western end of the department, forks off into +two branches which traverse the whole of Finistère,—the +Mené-Arré, or northern chain, and the Montagnes +Noires, or southern.</p> + +<p>St. Pol looks like a town of the Middle Ages. +"The holy city," as it is called by the Léonnais, +one of the four bishoprics<note place="foot">St. Pol de Léon, +Cornouaille, Vannes et Tréguier.</note> into which Brittany was +divided, comprising the modern districts of Morlaix +and Brest. The Pays de Léon is remarkable for +<pb n="104"/><anchor id="Pg104"/> +the number of its religious monuments, its fine +churches, its bone-houses, calvaries, way-side crosses, +and shrines. Crosses are set up in every direction, +and of every description, from the plain unpretending +simple cross of wood or stone, to the huge +crosses flaunting in green paint, with tears of gold—specimens +of the taste of the maire or priest of +the district. No Breton passes the sacred symbol +without kneeling to salute it, and making the sign +of the cross—evidence that the piety of those who +first raised them has not degenerated in their +posterity. The country is rich and varied. The +Léonnais is tallest of all the Breton race; his dress is +generally black or blue, with a coloured scarf round +his waist, his hair is worn very long, and his broad-brimmed +hat has a silver buckle. He is grave, +of a calm confiding faith, which nothing can shake +or alter, and of intense religious feeling. The +church is the place of meeting, where all his business +is transacted, all his aspirations centered. +Throughout Brittany the priesthood are low and +ignorant. Like the Irish, the Breton farmer's +great ambition is to make his son a priest. In no +part of France are they more uneducated than in +Brittany.</p> + +<p>St. Pol is still and melancholy, the grass grows +in the streets, the city looks as if it had not +awakened since its palmy days of the fourteenth +<pb n="105"/><anchor id="Pg105"/> +century. Its churches, <corr sic="calvarys">calvaries</corr>, cemeteries, all +silent as death—</p> + +<p rend="small; text-align:center"><q>A deep, +still pool in the ocean of life.</q></p> + +<p>Its lively neighbour, Morlaix, offers a strange contrast: +its inhabitants may well say they are three +hundred years in advance of St. Pol.</p> + +<p>The pride of St. Pol de Léon is the church of +Notre Dame-de-Creizker. Its steeple, nearly 400 feet +high, was said by Vauban to be the boldest piece of +architecture he ever beheld. It is built in the centre +of the church, entirely of granite, cut in the shape of +tiles and open work, to within eighty feet from the +base. According to the legend, on the spot where +the church now stands, there lived in the time of +St. Génévroc, a young girl, whom the saint found, +when passing her house on the fête of our Lady, +employed at her needle. He reproached her gently +with her impiety, yet she went on sewing, saying +"she required food on Sundays as well as on work +days." But the girl has hardly finished speaking, +when all her body became cold and motionless as +a stone. She was completely paralysed. Asking +pardon of St. Génévroc, he made the sign of the +cross upon each of her limbs, and the power of +motion returned. Grateful for her recovery, she +gave to the saint, her house, which was situated in +the middle of the town (as its name implies), as a +<pb n="106"/><anchor id="Pg106"/> +site for his church. It is said to have been built by +an English architect, invited to Brittany by Mary +Plantagenet, daughter of Edward III., and first wife +of Duke John IV.<note place="foot"> +His second wife was also English, Jane Holland, half-sister +of Richard II.; his third, Joan, daughter of Charles the Bad, +King of Navarre, who afterwards married Henry IV. of +England.</note></p> + +<p>The axis of the nave is inclined to the left, a +mystic allusion to the position of the head of the +expiring Saviour on the cross. <hi rend="italic">Et inclinato capite, +emise spiritum</hi>, "And He bowed his head, and gave +up the ghost." The north porch of the Creizker is +beautifully sculptured with leaves of the mallow, the +vine, and mulberry. It was all under repair when +we saw it.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 22. The Creizker.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image22.jpg"> + <head>22. The <corr sic="Creisker">Creizker</corr>.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The cathedral has two fine towers with spires, and +a magnificent rose window of the fifteenth century +in the south transept, with, above, the "fenêtre +d'excommunication." The fine porch, lightly and +delicately sculptured, is surmounted by a balustrade, +whence the episcopal benediction was given. Over +the high altar is a large wooden crosier, gilt, from +which to suspend the ciborium, similar to that we +saw in the cathedral of Dol. A black marble slab, +at the foot of the steps of the high altar, marks the +grave of St. Pol de Léon, who died 570. St. Pol, +the patron bishop and founder of the cathedral, was +<pb n="107"/><anchor id="Pg107"/> +<pb n="108"/><anchor id="Pg108"/> +<pb n="109"/><anchor id="Pg109"/> +one of the clergy of Great Britain who emigrated +to Brittany in the sixth century; he landed in the +island of Ouëssant, and passed on to the country of +Léon, where he founded a monastery. The island +of Batz was, at that time, infested by an enormous +dragon, sixty feet long; the saint, accompanied by +a warrior, entered the cavern of the monster, tied +his stole round its neck, and gave him to his companion +to lead, St. Pol following, beating him with +his stick, till they arrived at the extremity of the +island, when he took off the stole, and commanded +the dragon to throw itself in the sea, an order the +animal immediately obeyed. St. Pol is always represented +with the dragon by his side, the stole round +its neck. We were shown a little bell, said to have +belonged to the saint. It appears he had repeatedly +asked the king to give him this bell for his new +church, but had always been refused. When one +day some fishermen brought him a large fish taken +off the island of Batz, and in its mouth was the +coveted bell. It is certainly very ancient in form, +a kind of square pyramid about four inches wide +and nine high, of beaten red copper mixed, we were +told, with a considerable quantity of silver. It is +now rung over the heads of the faithful on pardons, +as a specific against headache and earache—a singular +remedy! The cathedral has a fine marble tomb +of Bishop Visdelou, preacher to Queen Anne of +<pb n="110"/><anchor id="Pg110"/> +Austria; he is represented in a half reclining posture, +in his pontifical garments. In every part of the +cathedral are the little boxes of skulls.</p> + +<p>Adjacent is the Ursuline convent, where is preserved +a small figure of the Virgin in jet; brought +from a church in the Iles Sainte Marguerite, taken +from the Spaniards in the seventeenth century. It +is supposed to possess miraculous powers, and is +sent round to the sick as a specific.</p> + +<p>We breakfasted at the little inn (Hôtel de +France), commanding a pretty view of the coast +from its windows and garden. The Léon country +was governed by Viscounts, who boasted, among +several manorial rights, the "droit de motte," which +empowered them, if a vassal (they were "serfs de +motte") attempted to live out of his demesne, or to +enter the service of another lord, to bring him back +to his "motte," a cord round his neck, and inflict +upon him corporal punishment. By virtue of the +same right, if the demesne of a lord was so placed +that it had no natural height from which to survey +its extent, his vassals were made to bring sufficient +cart-loads of earth to raise a mound or "motte" of +the requisite elevation. The other privilege was the +droit de "bris," equivalent to our flotsum and jetsum, +so lucrative that a Léon Viscount is recorded to have +said, when a noble was exhibiting his casket of gems, +that he possessed a jewel more precious than all +<pb n="111"/><anchor id="Pg111"/> +they were admiring—alluding to a rock famous for +its shipwrecks. Duke John the Red, taking advantage +of the misdeeds of one of these lords of Léon, +seized his rich possessions and united them (1276) to +the crown. The viscounty of Léon fell by alliance, +in the fourteenth century, to the house of Rohan, +in whose favour is was raised in the sixteenth to a +principality.</p> + +<p>We continued our drive to Roscoff, three miles +distant, a little sea-port town, formerly one of the +three great dens of corsairs and smugglers, all under +the protection of St. Barbe,—the other two being +Camaret and Le Conquet. Roscoff was the emporium +of considerable contraband trade with England. Tea, +wine, and brandy were brought over in small casks, +which the smugglers tied together and threw into +the sea, when near the coast, and landed at night. +The whole country round is now one extent of +kitchen-garden, the light sandy soil, dressed with +the goëmon, produces an incredible quantity of +vegetables, onions, cabbages, parsnips, asparagus, artichokes, +cauliflowers, &c. Of onions, 2,000,000 lbs. +are said to be sent every year to England alone. +The people here wear black caps, those of the men +are stocking-knit. The gardeners of Roscoff will +carry their produce above a hundred miles for sale. +The chief vegetable consumed by the Bretons +themselves is the cabbage, of which the quantity +<pb n="112"/><anchor id="Pg112"/> +raised is enormous. The kind grown is mostly the +Jersey or cow-cabbage, which grows with stalks +from five to six feet high, and has large leaves at +every joint. They use them for their cattle, as +well as for their own eating. Avenues of cabbages, +stacked five or six feet high, are to be seen in most +Breton markets. Bread or porridge of buckwheat +(blé noir) with cabbage-soup is the customary diet +of the country. The recipe is simple, consisting of a +cabbage-leaf, over which a little hot water is thrown, +and a "soupçon" of butter added to give it a +flavour. These ingredients compose the national +soup which always appears at the tâble d'hôte, with +the inevitable "ragoût," <hi rend="italic">i. e.</hi> harricoed mutton. + +The little town of Roscoff has some historic +importance. It was here that John de Montfort +sailed to England to do homage to King Edward III. +for the duchy of Brittany, and returned by the same +port. Here also the child-princess Mary Stuart +landed in 1548 to marry the young Dauphin, afterwards +Francis II. In commemoration of the event, +she afterwards caused the little chapel of St. Ninian +to be built close on the water's edge. It is not more +than fifty feet long, and has an eastern flamboyant +window, with others in the side walls. The +arches are fast going to decay, the stone altar is +also sculptured. When we saw it, the interior was +filled with bundles of broom-branches and poultry. +<pb n="113"/><anchor id="Pg113"/> +It is strange this little chapel, built by the Queen of +two Kingdoms, should be suffered to fall to ruin for +the lack of a trifling outlay.</p> + +<p>Here, two hundred years later, Prince Charles +Stuart landed after Culloden, in the French frigate +the 'Heureux,' sent by the French Government +to facilitate his escape, having eluded, through the +chances of a fog, the pursuit of the English cruisers; +and here he knelt, in the chapel of his ancestress, to +return thanks for his deliverance.</p> + +<p>The church of Roscoff has a curious pierced +steeple, like many of those in Finistère, and some +alabaster bas-reliefs of the fourteenth century, with +numerous boxes of skulls. A ship rudely sculptured +by the porch, and another by the east window, show +that the fishermen and ship-owners contributed to +the building of the church. By the shore is a rock +of grotesque form, and opposite, about three miles +from Roscoff, is the pretty island of Batz, which +derives its name—Breton "batz," a stick—from the +rod used by St. Pol de Léon to work his miracle.</p> + +<p>People were busily employed in boats collecting +the goëmon, which they pile in heaps along the +shore. The great curiosity of Roscoff is its enormous +fig-tree, in the garden of the Capucine convent, +said to be two centuries old. It is supported by +stone pillars, and is, we were informed, above 300 feet +in circumference.</p> +<pb n="114"/><anchor id="Pg114"/> + +<p>We returned that evening to Morlaix: the viaduct +by moonlight had a most picturesque appearance. +Next morning we proceeded by rail to the station +of St. Thégonnec, where nothing in the shape of a +vehicle was to be had to convey us to the town—nearly +a mile and a half distant—but the ricketty +two-wheeled mail cart. At the little cabaret, which +bears the important name of Hôtel de la Grande +Maison, we procured breakfast. The church has +been restored. It is rich in carvings, spoiled by +gilding, the altars and canopied pulpit especially. +Opposite to the last are two coloured "retables." +The high altar, with two side altars and two smaller +ones behind, are gorgeously carved, coloured and +gilt, and extend to the roof. The painted-glass +windows are the gifts of various persons. At the +entrance of the churchyard is a Renaissance porch, +or triumphal arch, dated 1581, with a sculpture +representing St. Thégonnec, a bullock and car by +his side. Adjoining, is the ossuary, or reliquary, +bearing the date 1676, also in the same elaborate +style, destitute of bones, but having below a crypt +containing a group of life-sized figures representing +the Entombment, with this inscription:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Tu le vois mort, pécheur, ce Dieu qui t'a fait naître:</q></l> +<l>Sa mort est ton ouvrage, et devient ton appui.</l> +<l><q rend="post">A ce trait de bonté, tu dois au moins vivre pour lui.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>In the churchyard is also a calvary; the name given +<pb n="115"/><anchor id="Pg115"/> +to those monumental sculptures peculiar to Brittany, +consisting of the crucifix, surrounded by the chief +witnesses of the crucifixion, together with minor +groups representing passages in the life of our +Saviour. This calvary, executed in Kersanton +stone, is dated 1610; the numerous figures are all +in the grotesque costume of the period, with ruffs, +toquets, trained gowns, and scalloped jackets.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 23. Calvary, Guimiliau.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image23.jpg"> + <head>23. Calvary, Guimiliau.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>We took a carriage for Guimiliau, passing on our +road to the left, a grotto. The church of Guimiliau +partly dates from the Renaissance; it has a finely +sculptured porch, and contains within carvings of +great beauty; the pulpit, supported on a column, is +dated 1677; the organ-loft is enriched with splendid +bas-reliefs in oak panels,—one represents a triumphal +march, after Le Brun, the others, King David and +St. Cecilia. But the grand monumental carving is +the magnificent baptistery or baptismal font, surmounted +by a baldachin or canopy, supported by +eight twisted columns interlaced with vines, grapes +and flowers, with graceful little birds pecking the +fruit. On the top of the canopy is a dolphin, and +above, two figures of Fame, trumpet-mouthed, surmounted +by a royal crown and the letters S. V. This +baptistery and the organ-loft are both in the style +of Louis XIV., and are said to have cost 30,000 francs. +In the churchyard are a triumphal arch and a reliquary, +both inferior to those of St. Thégonnec, but +<pb n="116"/><anchor id="Pg116"/> +the calvary of Guimiliau is one of the most extensive +in Brittany. It is of the sixteenth century. +It consists of a solid platform, ascended by a staircase, +and raised upon arches; upon it, sculptured in +Kersanton stone, are the three crosses, the centre +one beautifully carved with St. John and the Virgin +<pb n="117"/><anchor id="Pg117"/> +Mary by the side. The four Evangelists are placed +at each corner, and all the passages in the life of +Christ are represented by groups of little figures in +the costume of the sixteenth century. This singular +monument bears two different dates, those of 1581 +and 1588.</p> + +<p>Guimiliau is close to the railway, but there is no +station there. We returned to St. Thégonnec. The +peasants along the road were threshing their buckwheat +on the open ground; women as well as men +were at work. They threshed in a circle, keeping +good time with their strokes, and laughing merrily +while they flourished their flails,—they appeared a +most joyous party,—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Ho! batteux, battons la gerbe,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Compagnons, joyeusement.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Buckwheat, their "blé noir," is the Breton's chief +food, and is cultivated to a large extent. With its +coral-red stalks and snowy flowers it has a very +pretty appearance growing, and is the first care of +the Breton farmer—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Ah! que la sombre nue aux funestes lueurs,</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left:2">Planant sur la campagne,</l> +<l>Epargne les blés-noirs, les blés aux blanches fleurs,</l> +<l rend="margin-left:2"><q rend="post">Ce pain de la Bretagne."</q> +—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Stéphane Halgan</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>This plant, a native of Asia Minor, was evidently, +from its French name, "sarrazin," introduced into +Europe by the Saracens or Moors. We proceeded +<pb n="118"/><anchor id="Pg118"/> +by rail to Brest, passing under the foot of the abrupt +rock upon which stand the picturesque ruins of the +ancient castle of La Roche Maurice and the church +of La Roche. The rail runs along the banks of the +Elorn through a narrow wooded valley; the windings +of the river are very picturesque, and formerly a +steamer ran from Landerneau to Brest, affording the +opportunity of seeing them.</p> + +<p>Brest, the first harbour in France, is Breton only +in name and locality; it is built in an amphitheatre +on the slopes of two hills divided by the river Penfeld, +which forms the port. On the right is the +suburb Recouvrance, on the left Brest proper. This +irregular site often causes the second floor of the +houses in one street to be on a line with the ground +floor of another. Brest is clean and well built, and +consists of three long parallel streets. The principal +one, called the Rue de Siam, in commemoration of +the Siamese Ambassadors sent to Louis XIV., who +landed here, runs the whole length of the town, +ending at the fine iron bridge called the Pont +Impériale, the largest swing-bridge ever constructed. +You descend by a flight of steps from +the Rue de Siam to the lower streets. Running +along the bay, of considerable extent, and well +planted with trees, is the magnificent promenade +called the Cours d'Ajot, from the name of the +officer of the Engineers by whom it was laid out +<pb n="119"/><anchor id="Pg119"/> +and planted a century back. Well sheltered by its +trees and refreshed by the sea breezes, it commands +a fine view over the new "port de commerce," and +the whole extent of the harbour of Brest, which is +capable of containing 500 ships of the line, and +is, with the exception of those of Rio Janeiro +and Constantinople, the largest and most beautiful +in the world.</p> + +<p>Brest harbour has only one entrance, which is +to the west, through a narrow channel called Le +Goulet, less than a mile in width, and cut into two +by the Mingant rock. In the year 1796 the 'Republican' +was lost here. Sailing out of the harbour, +with a contrary wind and snow, the pilot thought +he had passed the Mingant rock, when the ship +struck, and went down with 800 men on board. +Brest Castle in the Middle Ages was a place of such +strength and importance that John IV., who had +four times besieged it fruitlessly, when it was under +the English dominion, was wont to say "Ce n'est +duc de Bretagne, qui n'est pas sire de Brest." It +had been held by Sir Robert Knolles against the +army of the King of France under Du Guesclin, +who was obliged to raise the siege. The donjon +was built by King Richard II. during the War of +Succession. The making Brest an important naval +station was the thought of Richelieu, and the work +of Louis XIV., who built the arsenal.</p> +<pb n="120"/><anchor id="Pg120"/> + +<p>Next day we made an excursion to see the church +of Notre Dame-du-Folgoët or the Fool of the Wood, +celebrated in legendary lore: the tale is so old and +often told, we have some scruples in repeating it.</p> + +<p>Towards the middle of the fourteenth century, +there lived in the woods of Lesneven, a poor idiot +boy, called Salaun (Solomon), better known under +the name of the Fool of the Wood (Folgoët). He +was miserably clad, had no bed but the ground; no +pillow, but a stone; no roof, but the tree which +gave him shelter. He went every day to Lesneven +to seek his daily bread, but he never begged; he +uttered the simple words "Ave Maria! Solomon +could eat bread," and returned with whatever pittance +was given him to his tree near the fountain, into +which he dipped his crusts, and plunged even in +the depth of winter, for his bath, always repeating +the words, "Hail, Maria!" One day a party of +marauding soldiers accosted him. In answer to their +questions, he replied, "I am neither for Blois nor +Montfort, I am the servant of the Lady Mary." +This simple life he led for nearly forty years, when +at last he fell ill and died, repeating his favourite +words "Ave Maria." He was found dead near the +fountain, and was buried by his neighbours. After +a time, when the memory of the poor idiot boy had +nearly passed away, there suddenly sprung up from +his grave a white lily with the words "Ave Maria" +<pb n="121"/><anchor id="Pg121"/> +inscribed in letters of gold upon its petals. The +news of the miracle spread throughout all Brittany, +Duke John sent commissioners; the grave was +opened, and it was found the lily proceeded from +the mouth of Salaun,—"ceste royale fleur sortait +par sa bouche du creux de son estomach"—a testimony +of the innocence and piety "du plus beau +mignon de la reine des Cieux." Duke John vowed +to erect a church to our Lady over the fountain of +the poor mendicant, whose faith had been thus recognised;<note place="foot"> +"Venu au monde à l'époque où naissait Bertrand Du +Guesclin, enlevé au ciel à l'époque du combat des Trente, +Salaun fit moins de bruit sur la terre que le célébre Connétable +ou que les braves compagnons de Beaumanoir. Son corps +ne fut pas transporté en pompe royale à S. Denis, pour y +reposer au milieu des souverains; aucun obélisque ne rappelle +sa mémoire: mais sur son humble tombe on a construit un +monument qui fire vivre son nom dans la suite des siècles. C'est +que Salaun, loin de chercher l'agitation des combats, ne demande +que le calme de la prière. Il choisit la meilleure part, et il ne +fut pas otée."—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Pol de Courcy.</author></bibl></note> +and, faithful to his promise, the first +stone was laid by him in 1366, as a thank-offering +for his success the previous year at the battle of +Auray, which had fixed the crown upon his head. +His wife, Joan of Navarre, not only made a pilgrimage +to the Folgoët in 1396, but also contributed +to the building of the church. It was +completed by John V., about 1419. The Queen-Duchess +Anne of Brittany went there in pilgrimage +<pb n="122"/><anchor id="Pg122"/> +after the recovery from illness of Louis XIII. Anne +of Austria founded six masses at the Folgoët, in +gratitude for the birth of Louis XIV., and several +popes granted indulgences to those who made +pilgrimages to this shrine. This church is one of +the finest in Brittany. Its colour is sombre; it +is the oldest monument in Brittany in which the +Kersanton stone is employed. This stone is a +volcanic rock called hornblende, of very fine grain, +with minute specks of mica. There is a large quarry +near St. Pol de Léon; but it is found principally on +the west of the harbour of Brest, near a village from +which it takes its name. Kersanton stone is of a +dark-green colour, approaching to bronze, gives +out a metallic sound when struck, and is easily +worked in the quarry, in blocks of from twenty to +forty feet cube, but hardens on exposure to the air. +Time has no destructive effect on it; the most +delicate, lightest, and most ornamental sculptures +executed in it remain uninjured, while the hardest +granites, erected at the same time, are friable and +decomposed. The Kersanton stone cuts glass like +a diamond.</p> + +<p>The architecture of the Folgoët is distinguished +for the elegance and richness of its ornamentation: +the softness of the Kersanton stone, when fresh +taken from the quarry fits it specially for the deeply +cut, lace-like works of the artists of the flamboyant +<pb n="123"/><anchor id="Pg123"/> +school, and the church is remarkable for the skill +with which the productions of the vegetable kingdom +are represented both within and without. It has no +transepts, but to the south is a projection formed +by the treasure chamber. The modern pulpit has a +series of medallion bas-reliefs representing the legend +of Solomon.</p> + +<p>The jubé, or roodloft, is a perfect lacework of +stone. Above three arches, decorated with vine-leaves, +is an open-worked gallery of pierced quatre-foils +surpassing in exuberance of ornament any other +known.</p> + +<p>To the east are five altars, all of Kersanton stone, +most delicately sculptured—the under-cutting of +the foliage most wonderful. They are in the shape +of tombs or sarcophagi, the form generally adopted +for altars in the sixteenth century. Round the +"autel des anges," richest of them all, is a row of +eighteen niches, filled in with the figures of angels, +holding alternately phylacteries and escutcheons; +round the top is a cornice of thistle-leaves—on the +cut stalk of one hangs a dew-drop perfect to nature.</p> + +<p>The high altar is decorated with vine-leaves, birds +pecking the grapes, and the ermine, with its motto +"À ma vie," introduced. The altar of the rosary +has also a cornice of vine-leaves modelled evidently +after the high altar.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 24. The Fool's Well, Folgoët.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image24.jpg"> + <head>24. The Fool's Well, Folgoët.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The fine flamboyant rose window at the east of +<pb n="124"/><anchor id="Pg124"/> +the church resembles that of St. Pol de Léon, and +below it is the fountain of Salaun. The spring is +concealed under the high altar, and flows into a +basin without, preserved by a kind of Gothic porch +sculptured with thistle-leaves and crockets, and +within it, on a bracket, is a delicately chiseled image +of the Virgin. Some children round the fountain +<pb n="125"/><anchor id="Pg125"/> +offered us pins, the use of which we did not understand. +We afterwards learned that it is the custom +in Brittany for girls to take a pin from their bodice, +and throw it into a sacred well, to ascertain, by its +manner of sinking, when they would be married. +If the pin falls head foremost, then there is no +present hope of matrimony, but if the point goes +first, it is a sure sign of being married that year.</p> + +<p>On the new year, in some parts of Brittany, pieces +of bread-and-butter are thrown into the fountains, +and from the way in which they swim the future is +foretold. If the buttered side turns under, it forebodes +death; if two pieces adhere together, it is a +sign of sickness; and if the piece floats, it is an +assurance of long life and happiness.</p> + +<p>The veneration for springs and healing wells is +of very ancient date, and was prohibited by early +councils of the Church; but the worship of that +element from which suffering humanity seeks for +relief in all its ailments has passed through succeeding +creeds, and that which was held sacred a thousand +years back is still the object of reverence and +affection.</p> + +<p>Nor is the sculpture outside the church less remarkable +than the interior. The west door, now +fallen to decay, has an arch with double entrance +separated by a column containing a bénitier. A +wreath of curled leaves runs round the arch, and on +<pb n="126"/><anchor id="Pg126"/> +a bracket of thistle-leaves formerly stood a statue of +John V.</p> + +<p>The north side has little ornament. The great +richness is in the south, where is the fine porch of +Bishop Alain de la Rue, who consecrated the building, +and more splendid still, is, at the angle formed +by the projecting sacristy facing the west, the Porch +of the Apostles. The twelve Apostles are ranged on +each side, under rich canopies; the whole porch one +mass of floral decoration, vine-leaves and mallows, +interspersed with dragons, birds, and insects. On +the right of the porch is a crouching figure with a +label inscribed: "Bn soiez venz,"—"Bien soiez +venuz" or "Soyez les bien venus"—an invitation +to the faithful to enter into the church. On the +lintel of the two doors are ermines passant, and the +motto of the Dukes of Brittany, "À ma vie," and +towards the south are the remains of a whole cornice +of ermines, running through the rings of a long scroll +inscribed with "À ma vie." This motto was first +taken by Duke John IV. (who instituted the order +of the Ermine) to imply that he had conquered +Brittany, and would maintain it, even at the cost of +his life, "à ma vie."<note place="foot"> +Duke Francis I. subsequently united the order of the +Ermine with that of the "Epi;" and the collar was then composed +of ears of corn, with an ermine pendant, and the motto +of Duke John.</note></p> +<pb n="127"/><anchor id="Pg127"/> + +<p>The collar consisted of a double chain, in each of +which were four ermines, and two more hung suspended +from two chains, surmounted by coronets. +The motto "À ma vie" was placed round each of +these ten ermines. The Père Lobineau quotes a +history of Duke John, in which the order is thus +spoken of:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Lors fit mander tous les Prélats,</q></l> +<l>Abbés et Clercs de tous Estats,</l> +<l>Barons, Chevaliers, Escuyers,</l> +<l>Qui tous portoient nouveaux Colliers</l> +<l>De moult bel port et belle guise;</l> +<l>Et étoit nouvelle Dévise</l> +<l>De deux Rolets brunis et beaux,</l> +<l>Couplés ensemble de deux fermeaux;</l> +<l>Et au dessus étoit l'Ermine</l> +<l>En figure et en couleur fine,</l> +<l>En deux Cedules avoit escript</l> +<l><hi rend="italic">À ma vie</hi>, comme j'ai dit;</l> +<l>L'un mot est blanc, l'autre noir,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Il est certain, tien, pour le voir.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>In the churchyard is a cross erected by Cardinal +de Coëtivy (died 1474), who is represented kneeling +at the foot; it is said to be the work of Michel +Colomb, sculptor of the celebrated monument raised +by Queen Anne of Brittany to her parents, now +in the Cathedral at Nantes. Next day, we went +to Le Conquet, returning by St. Mathieu. We +crossed the swing-bridge to the suburb Recouvrance, +so called from the chapel of our Lady, to whom +<pb n="128"/><anchor id="Pg128"/> +shipwrecked mariners addressed their petitions to +recover (recouvrir) their property. On our left we +saw the islet rock of Bertheaume, about 200 feet +high, distant from the coast 150. Until lately, the +communication with the mainland was by means of +a kind of cradle drawn on two cables, about nine +mètres in circumference.</p> + +<p>Le Conquet<note place="foot"> +The word <hi rend="italic">cong</hi>, in ancient Breton, means a basin surrounded +by quays, to receive and protect vessels from wind and +sea—as Conquet, Concarneau, or Cong-kernay.</note> +is a little seaport built on the slope +of a steep hill. Formerly it was of some importance, +and a great resort of pirates. Sir Walter Manny +took the town for the Countess of Montfort, during +the war of the two Jeannes, and it was attacked by +the fleets of Henry VIII. and his daughter Mary. +Opposite is a beautiful beach, called the Blancs +Sablons, accessible at low water by walking across +the harbour. Here is the point of communication +with the island of Ouëssant, about seventeen miles +distant, by means of a steamer, weather permitting, +as the Chenal du Four, which separates this group +of islands from the continent, is covered with rocks +and is very dangerous in rough weather. Its men +are all seamen or fishermen, the women perform the +agricultural labour. They bring in their produce +to Brest at the monthly fairs, and are not so cut off +from the world as Gresset describes them:—</p> + +<pb n="129"/><anchor id="Pg129"/> +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Sous un ciel toujours rigoureux</q></l> +<l>Au sein des flots impétueux,</l> +<l>Non loin de l'Armorique plage</l> +<l>Habitacle marécageux,</l> +<l>Moitié peuplé, moitié sauvage,</l> +<l>Dont les habitants malheureux</l> +<l>Separés du reste du monde,</l> +<l>Semblent ne connoître l'onde</l> +<l><q rend="post">Et n'être connus que des cieux.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Gresset.</author>—<title rend="italic">Carême impromptu.</title></bibl></l> +</lg> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image25.jpg"> + <head>25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>We now reached the Abbey of St. Mathieu, +situated on the extreme point of Brittany and of +France, on the top of a promontory, well called +Finistère. Here in the sixth century was built a +monastery in honour of St. Matthew the Evangelist, +whose head had been stolen in Egypt by some +Breton navigators, and been brought to land at this +point, which long bore the name of "St. Mathieu +de fin de terre" (Finistère). In the twelfth century +the monastery was converted into a Benedictine +abbey, which is a beautiful example of the Early +English style. The formidable rocks at its feet are +called Les Moines. The monks of St. Mathieu +kept a beacon for the safety of mariners on these +dangerous shores. The modern lighthouse quite +masks the sight of the abbey, and is a great disfigurement +to the view, which, in other respects, is most +grand; the imposing granite ruins of the abbey +church on the very edge of these weather-beaten +cliffs, worn and torn by the ocean with its unwearied +<pb n="130"/><anchor id="Pg130"/> +waves; on the right, the reefs of the Passage du +Four, which appear to unite the islands of Ouëssant +and its satellites to St. Mathieu; on the left the +elongated point of the Bec du Raz, which no one, +according to the Bretons, ever passed without grief +and suffering. In sight of Saint Mathieu, the +English in 1504, with eighty ships, attacked Hervé +de Porzmoguer, a Breton captain, with only twenty. +His own ship the 'Cordelière,' which had been built +and fitted out by Anne of Bretagne, at her own +expense, took fire; it held 1200 troops besides the +ship's company. Porzmoguer grappled the 'Cordelière' +to the ship of the English admiral, the 'Great +Harry;' and both vessels, driven by the north-west +wind to the entrance of the Goulet, were burned +together, and above 2000 men perished in the two +ships. Porzmoguer mounted the mast followed by +the raging flames, and cast himself from the main-top, +in full armour, into the sea.</p> + +<p>In 1597, the fleet sent by Philip II. to take possession +of Brittany for Spain was dispersed in a storm +off Point St. Mathieu, and, out of a hundred and +twenty ships, scarcely one remained.</p> + +<p>On our way home, we passed a little town called +La Trinité, from three springs all issuing from the +same fountain, at which washerwomen with their +wooden bats were hard at work, beating the clothes +to rags on the stones.</p> +<pb n="131"/><anchor id="Pg131"/> + +<pb n="132"/><anchor id="Pg132"/> + +<pb n="133"/><anchor id="Pg133"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image26.jpg"> + <head>26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Next day was the monthly fair at Brest, which +brought in many of the country people in their +picturesque costumes. Most conspicuous among +them were the peasants of Ouëssant, last type of the +Celtic women, in their singularly Italian-looking +head-dress, their hair streaming over their shoulders; +and the Plougastel men, in red caps, with coats and +trowsers of white flannel.</p> + +<p>Most of the market-women were furnished with +<pb n="134"/><anchor id="Pg134"/> +enormous umbrellas, red, blue, and green. In this +rainy province, they are indispensable, and the acquisition +of an umbrella is a great object of ambition +to the Breton peasant.</p> + +<p>We left Brest by the steamer for Pont Launay +and Châteaulin, a four hours' sail in the harbour of +Brest. On the right we passed the Point des Espagnols, +where Frobisher, sent by Queen Elizabeth to +the assistance of Henry IV., received his death wound. +Leaving on our left Plougastel, where we were unable +to visit the celebrated calvary, we passed near the +"Anse du Fret," whence Joan of Navarre, then +widow of Duke John IV., sailed to England to +marry Henry of Lancaster, 1403. Henry, when +Earl of Derby, had visited Nantes to ask the assistance +of his uncle in returning to England, and Joan +had favoured his expedition, but Duke John died +the same year (1399). When Queen Dowager of +England, she saw the children of her two husbands +arrayed against each other, and her son Arthur, who +had been invested by King Henry IV. with the +Earldom of Richmond, made prisoner at Agincourt +by his half-brother King Henry V., who confined +him in the Tower, and afterwards in Fotheringay +Castle. Joan received hard treatment from her +stepson. Accused of being a sorceress—a reputation +she inherited from her father, Charles the Bad of +Navarre—Henry caused her to be confined in +<pb n="135"/><anchor id="Pg135"/> +Leeds and Pevensey castles, and deprived her of +her property. It was only on his approaching +death that he restored her to liberty. She retired +to Havering Bower in Essex, where her grandson, +the unfortunate Gilles de Bretagne, was reared +and educated with Henry VI. She died in 1437, +and the memory of "Joan the witch queen" was +long held in awe by the people of Havering Bower.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image27.jpg"> + <head>27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>On the left is the hamlet of Kersanton, which +gives its name to the stone so called. At the entrance +of the Aulne,<note place="foot"> +A fine viaduct is in course of construction across the +valley of the Aulne, composed of twelve arches, remarkable for +their immense span (72 feet), and at an elevation of 170 feet +above the water.</note> to the right, we passed the ruins of the +abbey of Landévenec, the most ancient monastic +establishment in Brittany. At Pont Launay an omnibus +took us to the railway station at Châteaulin, +celebrated for its slate quarries, a drive of three +quarters of an hour. From here we proceeded by +rail to Quimper, capital of Cornouaille. The district +of Cornouaille—Cornu-Galliæ, expressing its position +at the horn or extremity of France—is most varied in +character. The part on the north is enclosed between +the two chains of mountains, which, running nearly +parallel with each other, traverse the department +of Finistère, the Mené-Arré, and the Montagnes +Noires. A single chain passes through the Côtes-du-Nord, +<pb n="136"/><anchor id="Pg136"/> +and forks off, at the edge of the department, +near Callac, whence the northern range, the +Mené-Arré, runs westwards to Faou harbour; while +the Montagnes Noires incline to the south-west, and +reach the sea near Crozon. The country between +these chains is dreary and bare—barren plains and +black mountains; to the south it is cultivated and +productive. The stormy rock-bound coast is wild +and desolate. One-third of the department consists +<pb n="137"/><anchor id="Pg137"/> +of landes, marshes, and sandy shores (<hi rend="italic">grèves</hi>). +The people are the Irish of Brittany. Their wants +are restricted to a tub of salted pork and a provision +of cider, with rye, or black corn, to make their +"galette." They are simple in their manners, kind +to the poor, and enduring of suffering. Respect +for the misfortunes of others, and patience under +their own, is one of the Breton characteristics.</p> + +<p>In the days of Conan Meriadec there lived a holy +man, called Corentin, who retired to a solitude for +prayer and meditation, near a fountain in a forest. +Every morning a little fish came to him from the +fountain; he cut a piece off it for his daily pittance +and threw it again into the water, and in an instant +the fish became whole. The miracle was repeated +every morning. One day King Gradlon, who held +his court at "Kemper," was in the forest near the +hermitage of St. Corentin, with some of his suite, and +asked him if he could give him something to eat. +The saint immediately ran to his fountain and called +his little fish, cut off a piece, which he gave to the +maître d'hôtel to prepare for the king and his attendants. +The chef laughed when he took the slice; +but, to the surprise of everybody, the fish multiplied +so as to completely satisfy the hunger of the king +and his party. Gradlon threw himself on his knees +at the feet of St. Corentin, and gave him the forest, +with a "maison de plaisance," which St. Corentin +<pb n="138"/><anchor id="Pg138"/> +converted into a monastery. The king afterwards +erected Quimper into a bishopric, to which he nominated +St. Corentin:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l rend="left-margin:4"><q rend="pre">Voici dans le fond la ville de Kemper,</q></l> +<l>Asise au confluent de l'Oded et du Ster.</l> +<l>Comme sa cathédrale, aux deux tours dentelées,</l> +<l>S'élève noblement du milieu des vallées,</l> +<l>O perle de l'Oded, fille du roi Grallon,</l> +<l>Qui de saint Corentin portes aussi le nom,</l> +<l>Rejouis-toi, Kemper, dans tes vielles murailles!</l> +<l>Vois avec quelle ardeur, ô reine de Cornouailles,</l> +<l>Tes fils de tous les points de l'antique évêché,</l> +<l>Pêcheurs et montagnards, viennent à ton marché!</l> +<l>Cornouillais! en passant près de sa basilique,</l> +<l>Du bon saint Corentin adorez la relique.</l> +<l>Que tous ceux d'Elliant et des mêmes chemins</l> +<l>Boivent à sa fontaine et s'y lavent les mains;</l> +<l>Non pas les Léonards, eux de qui les ancêtres,</l> +<l>Voici quelque mille ans, hommes jaloux et traîtres,</l> +<l>Volèrent le poisson dont notre Corentin</l> +<l>Coupait pour se nourrir un pen chaque matin,</l> +<l>Et qui chaque matin, ô pieuse merveille!</l> +<l>Nageait dans sa fontaine aussi frais que la veille:</l> +<l>Eh bien! les Léonards volèrent ce poisson,</l> +<l>Mais Kemper n'oublie jamais leur trahison;</l> +<l>Sans jouir de leur crime, ils en portent la peine,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Et toujours le poisson nage dans la fontaine.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><title rend="italic">Les Bretons</title>—<author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>Quimper, or Quimper-Corentin, is prettily situated +at the junction of the rivers Odet and Stheire; its +Breton name, Kemper, signifying confluence. It was +long called Kemper-Odet. On the opposite side of +the river the hills, consisting of a mass of rocks, +<pb n="139"/><anchor id="Pg139"/> +covered with trees, rise to some height, and are +ascended by well-kept walks. The river runs straight +through the town, like a canal, edged by stone quays +and crossed by iron bridges, with avenues of trees on +each side. Trout can be seen in the sparkling stream; +and we watched a boy with a hook at the end of a +reel of black silk, hanging over the bridge, with a +piece of kneaded bread for bait. With this simple +tackle he contrived to hook a trout of tolerable size, +and let it run out the length of his silk line till he +had tired it out and landed it. The scenery of the +river below Quimper, flowing through a bed of +granite blocks, is, we were told, lovely, but we had +no time to visit it further down. The view from the +top of the wood-covered heights on the opposite +side is very extensive, looking down upon the town, +with its cathedral towers rising above, the promenade, +and the course of the river. At the end of the town +there is a manufactory of coarse pottery; but formerly +it produced ware of a finer quality.</p> + +<p>The beautiful cathedral is the largest of the four +episcopal churches of Lower Brittany (Vannes, St. +Pol, Quimper, and Tréguier), and was principally +built in the fifteenth century. On the platform over +the finely sculptured porch, rich in foliage like the +Folgoët, placed between the two towers, is the equestrian +statue of King Gradlon, to whom is attributed +the introduction of the vine into Brittany. The statue +<pb n="140"/><anchor id="Pg140"/> +was decapitated in 1793, but restored ten years back. +On St. Cecilia's day companies of musicians used to +mount on the platform. While they sang a hymn +in praise of King Gradlon, one of the choristers, +provided with a flagon of wine, a napkin, and golden +hanap, mounted on the crupper of King Gradlon's +horse, poured out a cup of wine, which he offered +ceremoniously to the lips of the statue and then +drank himself, carefully wiped with his napkin the +moustachios of the king, placed a branch of laurel +in his hand, and then threw down the hanap in the +midst of the crowd below, in honour of the first +planter of the grape in Brittany. To whoever caught +the cup before it fell, and presented it uninjured +to the Chapter, was adjudged a prize of two hundred +crowns.</p> + +<p>The two spires of the cathedral are modern, and +were built by an annual subscription of a sou for +five years, called the "sou du St. Corentin:" more +than 600<hi rend="italic">l.</hi> was thus raised. They have only been +lately finished.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 28. Beggar. Quimper.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image28.jpg"> + <head>28. Beggar. Quimper.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The men about Quimper all wear the national +costume—enormous bragou-bras, or breeches of a +kind of white sail-cloth, a broad-brimmed felt hat, +long hair, falling over the shoulders, wooden shoes, +and a broad belt with metal buckle. Their woollen +jacket and waistcoat are edged with gay colours, and +have sometimes the itinerant tailor's name and the +<pb n="141"/><anchor id="Pg141"/> +date of the making of the garment, embroidered in +wool upon the breast. On gala days brown or blue +cloth bragous are worn, tied with coloured ribbons +at the knees, black leather gaiters with buttons, and +the sabots are replaced by leather shoes and costly +silver buckles. The national costume is more preserved +in Cornouaille than in the other parts of +Brittany. The pen bas or cudgel, with a large +<pb n="142"/><anchor id="Pg142"/> +knob, like the Irish shillelah, is always ready at +hand:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Comme une conque immense ouverte au bord des eaux,</q></l> +<l>En Cornouaille est un port, il y vient cent bateaux.</l> +<l>Un sable jaune et fin couvre ses côtes plates,</l> +<l>Mais un infect amas de rogues, de morgates,</l> +<l>D'ossements de poissons sur le rivage épars,</l> +<l>La saumure qui filtre entre ses deux remparts,</l> +<l>Soulèvent tous les sens quand cette odeur saline</l> +<l>Arrive au voyageur qui tourne la colline,</l> +<l>Laissant derrière lui les taillis de Melven,</l> +<l>La belle lande d'or qui parfume Aven,</l> +<l>Et ces mouvants aspects de plaines, de montagnes</l> +<l>Que déroulent sans fin nos sauvages campagnes.</l> +<l>Plus de batteurs de seigle ici, plus de faucheurs,</l> +<l>Mais des canots chargés de mousses, de pêcheurs,</l> +<l>Partant et revenant avec chaque marée,</l> +<l>Et sur les quais du pont versant à leur rentrée,</l> +<l>Des sardines en tas, des congres, des merlus,</l> +<l>Des homards cuirassés, de gros crabes velus;</l> +<l>Et, du fond des paniers, mille genres énormes,</l> +<l>De toutes les couleurs et de toutes les formes,</l> +<l>Avec leur œil vitreux et leur museau béant,</l> +<l>Tous enfants monstrueux du grand monstre Océan.</l> +<l>Aussitôt le pressier les sèche, les empile,</l> +<l>Et quand leur grasse chair a degorgé son huile,</l> +<l>De Nantes à Morlaix cherchant les acheteurs,</l> +<l><q rend="post">On voit bondir sur mer les hardis caboteurs."</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><title rend="italic">Les Bretons</title>—<author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image29.jpg"> + <head>29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Thus the Breton poet describes Concarneau, a +little fortified town, which has been called the St. +Malo of Cornouaille, and is celebrated for its sardine +fishery. The road lay through a wooded country, +with steep hills and valleys, intersected by streams: +<pb n="143"/><anchor id="Pg143"/> +on the right a view of the Bay of La Forêt, where +extensive oyster-culture is going on. After a tedious +journey with miserable horses, we reached Concarneau +at nine, a distance of little more than thirteen +miles, having set off a few minutes after four. Concarneau +proper is on a rocky island, surrounded by +fortifications, with eight or nine towers and thick +walls, and communicating with the mainland by +means of a drawbridge. This is called the "Ville +Close." It consists of only one street. When Duke +John IV. embarked from here for England, he left +<pb n="144"/><anchor id="Pg144"/> +Sir Robert Knollys governor of the duchy. The +constable Du Guesclin, after the surrender of Hennebont +and Quimperlé, took Concarneau by storm +and slew all the English garrison, except the captain, +who received quarter.</p> + +<p>Opposite the island is the faubourg Sainte Croix, +which is more populous than the Ville Close, and +where all the business of the place is carried on. +The sardine fishery, from June to November, occupies +two-thirds of the population. From three to +four hundred vessels are employed with five men +to each boat. Calm weather is most favourable for +fishing. The sardines are taken in large seine nets, +one side floating with corks on the surface of the +water, the other falling vertically. The sardines, +attracted by the bait, try to force themselves through +the meshes of the net, and are caught by their gills. +The bait used is called "rogue:" the best is composed +of the roe of the cod-fish, pounded and steeped +in salt water for several days; sometimes the roe and +flesh of the <corr sic="mackarel">mackerel</corr> is used. Rogue is made in +Norway and Denmark, but principally at Drontheim, +and is very expensive, costing about sixpence the lb.; +hence an inferior bait is substituted, composed of +shrimps and other small crustacea, with fish salted, +and the heads of anchovies, all pounded and putrified +together. But this kind of decomposed bait is forbidden +by the fishery laws. The employment of it +<pb n="145"/><anchor id="Pg145"/> +accounts for the rareness of good sardines, as the +remaining of such a substance in the body of the +animal cannot fail of corrupting it. It is a pretty +sight to behold the little fleet employed in the sardine +fishery return in the evening, laden with the +results of the day's work. The fish, when landed, +are counted out into baskets, shaken in the water, +and taken up to one of the curing-houses: of these +there are about sixty in Concarneau. In the first +shed we saw above fifty women employed in taking +off their heads—"detêter" it is called—an operation +they effect with great dexterity. With one cut at +the back of the neck the head is separated and the +fish "éventré" at the same time.</p> + +<p>The sardines are next placed in little wire trays, +with divisions like a double gridiron, and fried or +dipped in boiling oil, an operation principally performed +by the women of Pont l'Abbé, who are +supposed, like the Germans of our baking and +sugar-refining houses, to be peculiarly constituted +to resist heat. The gridirons are then hung up to +drain. The sardines are next packed in tin boxes, +cold oil poured over them, and the boxes soldered +down. From 800 to 900 boxes are placed in a +boiler and boiled for half an hour to test the boxes, +and those which leak are put aside. They are of +English tin, and the making of them is the winter's +occupation. Finally, the boxes are stamped with +<pb n="146"/><anchor id="Pg146"/> +the name of the establishment, and packed in deal +cases for exportation. The sardine is a very delicate +fish, and easily decays. It is only taken out of the +net with a rake (<hi rend="italic">raquette</hi>); in summer, numbers +are spoiled from being heaped in the boats, and +at whatever hour the boats come in the fish go +through the whole process of curing, as they will +not keep till the next day. Concarneau exports +from 15,000 to 20,000 barrels of sardines annually. +<pb n="147"/><anchor id="Pg147"/> +Only a part are "anchoitée," that is, preserved like +the anchovies of the Mediterranean, the others are +salted in casks; and quantities, only slightly salted, +are packed in baskets, to be sent to the provincial +markets. It is estimated that twelve hundred +million fish have been caught this year. The sardine +fishery extends along the whole western coast +of Brittany from Douarnenez to the Loire.</p> + +<p>One of the curiosities of Concarneau is its aquarium, +under the direction of M. Guillon. It consists +of six cisterns, made by the blasting of the solid +rock, and comprising an area of large extent, within +a walled enclosure. In these cisterns the water is +renewed at each turn of the tide through narrow +openings in the wall. Three of these reservoirs are +reserved for fish, the others for crustacea—lobsters +and langoustes. Of these they keep from 10,000 to +15,000 at a time, and send them off daily, when +fattened, to Paris and the principal markets of +France. It was curious to see the dread shown by +the common lobster to the langouste. They all +were adhering to the sides of the reservoirs as if +afraid to encounter their more powerful companions. +Quantities of turbot, also reared for sale, were in +one of the cisterns, darting with the greatest rapidity +in the water when the keeper threw in pieces of +sardines for them to eat. At the end of these +cisterns is a building, with every arrangement for +<pb n="148"/><anchor id="Pg148"/> +the culture of fishes—rows of little troughs, and +other vessels, to contain them. Many of the fish +are so tame, they came immediately to the keeper +on his making a noise in the water with his fingers. +Here are fish of every description, and naturalists +have every facility of studying their habits. Among +others, we saw the graceful little sea-horse or hippocampus, +a native of the seas of Brittany as well as of +the Mediterranean.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 30. Dolmen. Trégunc.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image30.jpg"> + <head>30. Dolmen. Trégunc.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>From Concarneau to Quimperlé is a distance of +above eighteen miles. The road runs near the sea, +<pb n="149"/><anchor id="Pg149"/> +over a large tract of land covered with furze (ajonc), +which, in Brittany, grows from five to six feet high, +forming a solid impenetrable mass. Huge blocks of +granite are scattered about in every direction, jutting +<del>out</del> out from among the furze—menhirs, cromlechs, +and dolmens—a perfect wilderness of Celtic remains. +We drove over an extent of several miles of furze-covered +hills and heathy land. Before we reached +the village of Trégunc we stopped to see a large dolmen +on the side of the road, and further to the right +a rocking-stone, twelve feet long and nine feet thick, +standing about fifteen feet from the ground, the +second largest in Brittany. It is poised by a little projection, +like an inverted cone, upon another rock lying +half-buried in the ground. The upper block can +easily be set in motion by the hand. It is called by +the country people "La pierre aux maris trompés," +and was formerly consulted by husbands to test the +fidelity of their wives. Even now the partner of a +faithless wife is said to be incapable of giving to the +stone the rocking motion it so easily receives from +another.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 31. Rocking Stone. Trégunc.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image31.jpg"> + <head>31. Rocking Stone. Trégunc.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>On the left we passed the majestic ruins of the +castle of Rustéphan, <hi rend="italic">i. e.</hi> Run, mound, of Stephen, +having been built by Stephen Count of Penthièvre +at the beginning of the twelfth century. It belonged +in the thirteenth to Blanche of Castile, the mother +of St. Louis. The present edifice dates from the +<pb n="150"/><anchor id="Pg150"/> +fifteenth. One of the sides remaining has a cylindrical +tower with pinnacled doorway, and the windows +have stone mullions.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 32. Château of Rustéphan.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image32.jpg"> + <head>32. Château of Rustéphan.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Pursuing our road through blocks of granite, we +descended into the valley of Pontaven, the town of +millers, according to the old saying—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Pont Aven, ville de renom;</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Quatorze moulins, deux maisons;</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>a little port built upon rocks, at the foot of two +elevated mountains, over which are scattered masses +of granite boulders, obstructing the course of the +river which bounds over them. The banks are +lined with woody slopes; wooden bridges cross the +<pb n="151"/><anchor id="Pg151"/> +river at intervals; mills are established on the ledges +of the rocks on its sides; and the noise of the mills, +with that of the sparkling river tumbling through +the rocks in waterfalls, keep up a perpetual din. +Pontaven is celebrated for the quantity of its salmon: +so much is taken, that it used to be said that the +millers fattened their pigs upon this fish, which was +literally true, as they took the small salmon, called +glésils, in nets (<hi rend="italic">poches</hi>) for that purpose. Salmon now +is very dear. At the mouth of the Pontaven river +was a castle, whose proprietor had the privilege of +firing upon the fishing-boats which returned up the +river without giving to the castellan their finest +fish, which his steward went down to select. Pontaven +is seven and a half miles from Bannalec, the +nearest railway station. After remaining a few hours +we drove on to Quimperlé—in Breton, Kemper +(confluence) Ellé—so called, because it is at the +confluence of two rivers, the Elle and Isole:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Vous reverrai-je encore, ô fleuve de l'Ellé,</q></l> +<l>Vous, Izôle, où mon cœur est toujours rappellé!</l> +<l>Les eaux sombres de l'Ellé, claire ceux de l'Izôle;</l> +<l><q rend="post">De ces bords enchantés je dirais chaque saule.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux.</author></bibl></l> +</lg> + +<p>Quimperlé is a great resort for fishing, the Quimperlé +salmon and trout being renowned throughout +Brittany, and even at Paris. This town is beautifully +situated, surrounded by high hills, in a valley, watered +<pb n="152"/><anchor id="Pg152"/> +by these bright rivers, the hills covered with gardens, +orchards, the Ursuline, Capucine, and other convents, +and crowned by the steeples of the Gothic +church of St. Michael. Its principal building is the +church of St. Croix, formerly that of a Benedictine +abbey, celebrated for its riches. The island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer +then belonged to it. It is a most singular +edifice, built in the eleventh century, after the model +of the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. +In 1862 it fell down, but is at present in course of +restoration, after its original plan. The old abbey +buildings are now occupied by the Prefecture. We +were given permission to pass through the convent +garden—the workmen and building materials having +blocked up the other entrances—to see the crypt in +which is the tomb of Saint Gurloës, first abbot of +Quimperlé. His effigy, with crosier in hand, his +feet resting on a dragon, lies upon a monument, +about three feet high, with an opening in the lower +part. The saint—Saint Urlose, as the Bretons call +him—is invoked principally for the gout, and persons +so afflicted crawl through the hole under the tomb, +where, suspended by chains, is an iron hook. They +twist a lock of their hair round this hook, and tear it +off with violence, hoping to propitiate the saint by +this mortification—evidently a remnant of heathen +times, when hair was sacrificed to deities or to the +memory of departed friends.</p> +<pb n="153"/><anchor id="Pg153"/> + +<p>At Quimperlé was buried John de Montfort, rival +of Charles of Blois for the ducal crown. Sent to +Paris under a safe-conduct by the Dauphin John, +Philip of Valois had him shut up in the Louvre, +whence he escaped, after a captivity of three years, +to England. Edward III. espoused his cause and +granted him some troops. After an unsuccessful +attack upon Quimper, De Montfort died (1345) at +Hennebont, and was buried in the church of the Dominicans +at Quimperlé. He appointed Edward III. +guardian of his son, and Edward immediately occupied +Quimperlé and caused money to be struck in +his name. Lord Lewis of Spain, on the side of +Charles of Blois, made a descent upon Quimperlé +at the head of 6000 men, and pillaged the whole +country. On the news reaching Sir Walter Manny, +he hastened to meet the enemy, took possession of +their fleet, and made such carnage of the soldiers, +that they were all killed or taken prisoners, and +Lewis of Spain escaped with difficulty. The country +about Quimperlé is beautiful—wood and water in +every direction. The department of Finistère is +traversed by three hundred streams, and has an +extent of nearly four hundred miles of coast. We +were advised to go and see the rood-screen of the +chapel of Rosgrand, but had no time. We visited +the ruins of the church of St. Columban. Above +a round-arched doorway is a beautiful flamboyant +<pb n="154"/><anchor id="Pg154"/> +window, between two canopied niches. We next +walked up to the Place near St. Michel, where a +cattle-market was being held. The Breton peasants, +with their long shaggy uncombed hair hanging +round their shoulders—they comb and wash only +on fête days—their dirty canvas bragou bras, patched +coats, and sabots with tufts of straw crammed in, +looked more dirty than it is possible to imagine. +Cleanliness is the last of the Breton virtues. The +market and the fair are the two great events of the +country, and people flock from great distances to +sell their merchandise. But of all extraordinary +animals is the Breton pig, as tall as a donkey; a lean, +long-necked, ragged, bristly, savage-looking beast, +as ill kept as its master, and it runs like a greyhound +when approached. The Breton cow is very small, +small as the Kerry cows of Ireland, very pretty and +very productive. The Breton butter is proverbially +good, and is given out most liberally, in lumps as +big as loaves, at the tables-d'hôte. It is brought to +market in jars which the women carry upon their +heads. It is to the Queen-Duchess that Brittany, +and indeed all France, owes the privilege of eating +butter in Lent. It was forbidden as animal food +by the laws of the Church, and oil, a vegetable +production, ordered as a substitute. In 1491, +Anne solicited of Rome, for herself and household, +permission to eat butter on fast-days, alleging, +<pb n="155"/><anchor id="Pg155"/> +as a plea, that Brittany did not produce oil. Encouraged +by this favour, Brittany obtained the same +indulgence, and it was acquired successively by the +other provinces of France; but all are originally +indebted for the privilege to the good Queen-Duchess +Anne.</p> + +<p>Next day, leaving the department of Finistère, we +entered that of Morbihan, and went by rail to Lorient +on the river Scorff, here joined by the Blavet. It +was formerly the seat of the French East India +Company; it is now one of the five military ports +of France and the residence of a maritime Prefect. +In the Place Bisson is the statue of a young officer +of the French navy, a native of Guemené-sur-Scorff +(Morbihan). When commanding, in 1827, a brig +in the Greek Archipelago, he was attacked by two +pirate vessels. Nine out of his fifteen men were +killed and himself wounded; the enemy crowded on +the deck. Desiring the survivors of his crew to +jump overboard, "Now," cried he to the pilot, "is +the moment for revenge!" and, setting fire to the +powder-magazine, he blew up himself, his ship, and +the pirates who had boarded her. Next morning +the bodies of seventy Greeks lay on the sea-shore, +showing the success of his self-devotion. The pilot, +who, with four sailors, was saved, received the decoration +of the Legion of Honour. On the pedestal +of Bisson's statue is an inscription, concluding with +<pb n="156"/><anchor id="Pg156"/> +these words: "Mort en héros, pour son roi et sa +patrie, ses amis le pleurent, la France le regrette, et +ses frères d'armes envient son sort."</p> + +<p>From here we proceeded to Hennebont (Breton, +"old bridge"), famous, in the War of Succession, for +its heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, during the +captivity of her husband, Jean de Montfort, who had +been taken prisoner at Nantes and carried off to +Paris. Jeanne, who, as Froissart says, had the courage +of a man and the heart of a lion, placed herself +at the head of his party. Like another Maria Theresa, +she presented herself before the Breton lords, with +her infant son in her arms, and received their oaths +of allegiance. She then joined in the defence of +Hennebont, which was invested by Charles of Blois. +Clothed in armour and mounted on a war-horse, she +galloped up and down the streets, encouraging the +inhabitants. She ordered the ladies of her suite and +other women of the place to cut short their "keytels," +carry the stones to the ramparts, and transport pots +of quick-lime to throw down upon the enemy. +At the head of 300 horsemen, the Countess, who +rode better than any squire, sallied out of the town, +attacked and burnt the enemy's camp, retreated to +Auray, and, a few days after, re-entered Hennebont, +with banners flying and trumpets sounding. But +the blockade was so close that provisions were +wanting, and the garrison compelled her to agree to +<pb n="157"/><anchor id="Pg157"/> +a capitulation, unless within three days assistance +arrived from England. The time was on the point +of expiring, and a herald had approached the gate of +the city to receive the keys in the name of Charles +of Blois, when the Countess, from her window, perceived +at sunrise the English fleet entering the port +in full sail. She exclaimed, "We are saved!" The +siege was raised, and the Countess, says Froissart, +kissed Sir Walter Manny and all his companions, +one after the other, two or three times, like a noble +and valiant dame. "Better," observed Charles, when +he heard the news, "that Jeanne, instead of her +lord, had been shut up in the Louvre." He left the +carrying on of the siege to Lewis of Spain, and proceeded +to Vannes and Auray. Some fragments of +walls are all that remain of Jeanne de Montfort's +castle, which was situated on a height on the other +side of the river in the "Vieille ville." The town on +the left bank of the Blavet is called the "Ville neuve" +and the "Ville close," being surrounded by walls. +Large vessels ascend the Blavet to Hennebont. It +is traversed by a light and elegant railway viaduct +of twelve arches. We saw on the quay a quantity of +red iron-ore from Bilbao.</p> + +<p>Hennebont is a very pretty town; the principal +building is the church of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, of +the sixteenth century, with a fine square stone tower, +surmounted by a beautiful spire, and a tall porch, +<pb n="158"/><anchor id="Pg158"/> +forming one side of the tower. This handsome +church has lately been restored. The scenery about +the Blavet is very pretty—the banks wooded, and +fertile fields. We took a boat and rowed up the +river, passing the ruined Abbaye de la Joie, where a +hideous château has been built. This was a Cistercian +convent, founded in the thirteenth century by +Blanche of Navarre, wife of Duke John I. (<hi rend="italic">le Roux</hi>). +The chapel of Notre Dame-de-Paradis formerly belonged +to the convent; but when the parish church +was demolished, the Abbey ceded this chapel to the +town, reserving the privilege of a separate seat for +the Abbess, who, on the Sunday after St. John's day, +had her crosier carried before her in state by one of +her vassals at high mass and vespers.</p> + +<p>From Hennebont we went by rail to Auray, and +established ourselves for some time in the Pavillon +d'en Haut, a most comfortable hotel. Auray is +situated on the slope of a hill, the streets narrow +and steep.</p> + +<p>Our first drive was to Ste. Anne d'Auray, one of +the most famous places of pilgrimage in Brittany, +on account of its miraculous well and church. It +has been called the Mecca of Brittany. Here, +according to the legend in the seventeenth century, +Ste. Anne appeared to a countryman, and directed +him to dig in a certain field, where he would find +her image, and to build a chapel there. Guided by +<pb n="159"/><anchor id="Pg159"/> +a miraculous light, Nicolazic discovered the statue, +and erected a chapel on the site.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image33.jpg"> + <head>33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The spring where Ste. Anne first appeared is now +enclosed in a large basin of cut stone. Near it is the +church, in course of reconstruction. It stands in a +court surrounded by covered galleries for the shelter +of the pilgrims. Two flights of steps, called the +Scala Sancta (after that of St. John Lateran), lead +to a platform over the three entrance gates, upon +which is an altar surmounted by a cupola, where +mass can be heard by 20,000 persons. The steps +are ascended by the pilgrims barefooted, as they do +at Rome. The fête of Ste. Anne is celebrated on +the 26th of July, when pilgrims arrive from all +parts of Brittany to visit the miraculous statue, to +<pb n="160"/><anchor id="Pg160"/> +ascend the holy staircase, and to drink or wash in +the sacred fountain. It was a fête day when we +visited Ste. Anne. There was a large assemblage of +people, and booths were erected round the court, +where were sold rosaries and the wire brooches, with +scarlet and blue tufts of worsted, called <hi rend="italic">épinglettes</hi>, +worn by the Bretons in their hats as a token of their +having made a pilgrimage. We saw exhibited the +photograph of a young lady, said to have lately +recovered from paralysis after bathing in the holy +well. So world-wide is the fame of Ste. Anne +d'Auray that a traveller mentions having seen at +her shrine an embroidered altar-cloth of Irish +damask, with "Irlande: Reconnaissance à Sainte +Anne, 1850," woven into the pattern. The convent, +with its enclosure, the Scala Sancta, fountain, and +miraculous bush, all date from the seventeenth +century. There is a railway station for Ste. Anne, +within two miles of the church.</p> + +<p>Returning to Auray, we went to the Chartreuse, +which owes its origin to the chapel of Saint Michel-du-Champ +founded (1382) by John de Montfort, +afterwards Duke John IV., on the spot where, in +1364, he gained the battle of Auray, which obtained +for him the duchy of Brittany. The chapel is close +to the railway station. In the fifteenth century +it was given to the Chartreux, and became a +monastery of the order which existed until the +<pb n="161"/><anchor id="Pg161"/> +Revolution. The present church was built at +the end of the reign of Louis XV.</p> + +<p>The battle was fought on the marshy plain by +the side of the muddy river Alrée. It is fully +described by Froissart. In the two armies were +assembled all the chivalry of England, France and +Brittany. The Breton-English were commanded by +Sir John Chandos; the French, by Du Guesclin; +with de Montfort were also Sir Robert Knollys, +Sir Hugh Calverley and Olivier de Clisson; with +Charles of Blois, Du Guesclin, the Comte d'Auxerre, +the Viscomtes of Rohan and Tournemine, and Charles +de Dinan. At the moment of the battle, the white +greyhound of Charles of Blois deserted his master +and ran to his rival de Montfort, who was on +horseback, and caressed him, standing on his hind +paws. De Montfort recognised the dog by his +collar, ornamented with the arms of Brittany, and +this incident passed through his army as a favourable +omen. The dog was known to have been the gift +of a witch to Duke John the Good, who bequeathed +it to his niece Jeanne, wife of Charles of Blois.</p> + +<p>Both armies heard mass, confessed themselves, +and received the Communion before they opened +the battle. The war cry of Charles was, "In the +name of God and St. Ives," Montfort repeated +the motto of his family, "Malo mori quam fœdari" +(better to die than be sullied), and his troops +<pb n="162"/><anchor id="Pg162"/> +advanced to the onset to the cry of "Malo." Both +chiefs wore the ermines emblazoned on their armour +and their standards; and relatives and friends were +ranged in battle array against each other. Following +the tactics which had been successful at Cressy and +Poitiers, Chandos quietly awaited the impetuous +attack of the Franco-Breton army, which was unable +to shake their antagonists, who returned the charge. +The melée was fearful, but the battle was in favour +of the English. Charles performed prodigies of +valour. In vain Rohan and Laval rallied round +him with the flower of the Breton knights; the +prince was a prisoner, and an English soldier +despatched him by plunging a dagger into his +throat. Du Guesclin sustained all the force of the +fight with his heavy steel mace, his battle-axe and +his sword; but his mace was broken, the handle +of his axe carried away, his sword shivered, and he +had no other weapon left but his gauntlets, and was +nearly overpowered by numbers, when Chandos, +who fought with a battle-axe, entreated him to +surrender, "Messire Bertrand, rendez-vous, cette +journée n'est pas vôtre; il faut céder à la fortune, +une autre fois vous serez plus heureux." Convinced +of the truth of Chandos' words, Du Guesclin +surrendered to him the handle of his sword. Beaumanoir +was among the prisoners; and Clisson, who +never left the field, lost an eye in the conflict.</p> +<pb n="163"/><anchor id="Pg163"/> + +<p>A hair shirt was found, with thick knotted cords +round the waist, upon the body of Charles, for he +delighted in deeds of mortification. He often used +to place pebbles in his shoes, and once walked two +leagues barefoot in the snow to visit the relics of +St. Ives, in consequence of which he was laid up for +three months. He was buried at Guingamp, and +his widow and children desired his canonisation; but +de Montfort, fearing such a step would render him +unpopular in Brittany, persuaded Pope Gregory XI. +to refuse it.</p> + +<p>Du Guesclin, after he recovered his liberty, was +destined, three years later, to be a second time the +prisoner of the English at Navarrete, when the Black +Prince replaced on his throne the cruel, perfidious +Don Pedro. When Sir Hugh Calverley asked for +the freedom of Du Guesclin, he was met by the +reply, "Il ne faut pas lâcher ce dogue de Bretagne, +si fatal aux Anglais." It was represented to the +Black Prince that report ascribed his detention to +fear or jealousy; upon which he sent for Du Guesclin, +who told him he was tired of listening to the +squeaking of the mice in his prison, and longed to +hear the nightingales of Brittany. He named his +own ransom at 100,000 florins, the Black Prince +reduced it to 60,000; and the Princess of Wales +contributed 20,000. It was paid by Charles V. +"Had it been ten millions," says his biographer, +<pb n="164"/><anchor id="Pg164"/> +"France would have paid it all." In the Musée +des Archives at Paris is preserved an order of +Charles V. to his treasurer, to prepare 30,000 +Spanish doublons, to be paid to the Prince of Wales +for the ransom of Du Guesclin, adding, "il touche +notre honneur grandement." This is the most +ancient royal autograph in the collection. Charles +calls him Bertran de Caclin. The Constable, in a +deed of gift of the Château of Cachant to the Duke +of Anjou, signs "Bertrain."</p> + +<p>A school for deaf and dumb occupies the Chartreuse, +directed by the Sœurs de la Sagesse. We +were shown round by a deaf and dumb guide, who +made us write on his slate what we could not +explain on our fingers, and he also wrote his reply. +He showed us a series of paintings, copies of Le +Sœur's Life of St. Bruno in the Louvre, which +are said to have been executed by the monks +of the Chartreuse. Attached to the church is a +sepulchral chapel containing the bones of the victims +of the unfortunate descent on Quiberon, when the +immense armament of French royalists who were +landed in British ships, perished. They were commanded +by d'Hervilly, an old officer of the Constitutional +Guard of Louis XVI., and he had for +lieutenant Count Charles de Sombreuil, whose sister +had rendered the name illustrious by her heroism +in the Reign of Terror. They landed at Carnac, +<pb n="165"/><anchor id="Pg165"/> +where Georges Cadoudal and a band of Chouans +awaited their arrival. Hoche, at the head of a republican +army, hastened to meet them. Every +thing depended upon their rapidity of action, but +three days were lost in disputes about the command +among the emigrant generals. They took possession +of the peninsula of Quiberon, a strip of land +about six miles long by three wide, united to the +mainland by a narrow tongue of sand a league in +extent, called the Falaise. Fort Penthièvre, placed +on the plateau of a steep rock, and bathed on +each side by the sea between the peninsula and the +Falaise, defends the approach by land. The emigrant +army was protected by the English fleet which lay +in the bay of Quiberon, one of the safest and most +sheltered on the coast. The defence of Fort Penthièvre +was entrusted to some republican soldiers +taken from the English prisons. In a night encounter +d'Hervilly was killed. Hoche marched upon +Fort Penthièvre, which was given up to him by the +traitor soldiers. La Puisaye threw himself into a +boat and gained the English fleet. The emigrant +army was thrown into the greatest disorder; the +"Bleus," as the republican soldiers were called, +pressed close upon them, and Sombreuil, driven +to the water's edge, and deserted by his troops, +offered to capitulate, on the condition that the lives +should be spared of all save himself. "Yes," cried +<pb n="166"/><anchor id="Pg166"/> +the republicans with one voice. They demanded +that the fire of the English corvette should cease, +and there being no boat at hand, Gesril du Papeu +swam to the English ship, and having delivered his +message, returned and surrendered himself prisoner. +It is said that Hoche considered the capitulation +sacred, but Tallien arrived armed with full powers +from the Convention to treat the emigrants according +to law. The prisoners had been conducted to +Auray; Hoche, unwilling to be the witness of acts +he could not prevent, returned to Brest. Not one +French officer would consent to be a member of +the military commission who were to try, or rather +condemn, the captives. It was composed of Belgians +and Swiss, and it was difficult to induce the soldiers +to execute the sentence. Sombreuil and a few others +were shot at Vannes. The execution of the rest +took place in a field now called the Champ des +Martyrs. They were brought out in twenties, and +placed before a trench, dug beforehand, and shot. +The massacre lasted three weeks. In all there were +952 victims. Two chapels have been erected; the +one attached to the Chartreuse, and the other on +the Champ des Martyrs. That in the Chartreuse +has inscribed over the front, in letters of gold, +"France in tears has raised it." The interior walls +are overlaid with black and white marble, with two +marble bas-reliefs by David of Angers: one representing +<pb n="167"/><anchor id="Pg167"/> +the Duc d'Angoulême praying over the +bones of the victims in 1814, when they were +transferred from the Champ des Martyrs to the +Chartreuse; the other, the laying of the first stone +of the mausoleum by the Duchesse d'<corr sic="Angoulme">Angoulême</corr> +in 1823. In 1829 the solemn inauguration of the +expiatory monument took place; and it must have +been touching to the spectators to have assisted +at the ceremony with the Duchesse d'<corr sic="Angoulme">Angoulême</corr>, +daughter of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, +niece of the martyr saint the Princess Elizabeth, +and herself long subjected to imprisonment and +indignities. Only one year after this ceremony she +again took the road to exile, where she ended her +troublous life, a pattern of piety and resignation—</p> + +<p rend="margin-left:12"><q>Sa mort fut le soir d'un beau jour.</q></p> + +<p>In the centre of the mausoleum is the vault containing +the bones, and over it a sarcophagus on a +pedestal, upon which are inscribed the names of the +victims. On the sarcophagus are busts of Sombreuil +and the other chiefs of the expedition; and a +profile of Monseigneur d'Hercé, Bishop of Dol, one +of the victims. Of the bas-reliefs on the mausoleum, +one represents the heroic act of Gesril du Papeu, +with the words "I hoped in God, and shall not be +afraid;" the other, the landing of the emigrants on +the shore of Carnac, with "All my brothers are +<pb n="168"/><anchor id="Pg168"/> +dead for Israel;"—these inscriptions are all in Latin. +Others are round the monument:—"Unworthily +slain for God and the King;"—"Precious before +God is the blood of his saints;"—"For our lives +and our laws;"—"You will receive a greater glory +and an eternal name." Our deaf and dumb guide let +a light down into the vault to show us the bones of +the victims, collected in one common sepulchre. +The Chartreuse convent therefore commemorates +two great tragedies of history: in ancient times the +battle of Auray, which caused the death of Charles +of Blois, the captivity of Du Guesclin, and the +slaughter of the flower of Breton chivalry by the +swords of their fellow Bretons. In modern days, +the massacre of the royalists at Quiberon—both the +horrible consequence of civil war.</p> + +<p>We then repaired to the "Champ des Martyrs," +where took place the execution of the royalists. At +the end of an avenue of silver firs is the expiatory +chapel, with a granite portico, in the Doric style. +Above is inscribed, "It is here they fell," and "The +memory of the just shall be eternal."</p> + +<p>On the tomb is written, "Tombeau des royalistes +courageux defenseurs de l'autel et du trône, ils tombèrent +martyrs de leurs nobles efforts. Quel Français +pénetré des droits de la couronne ignore ce +qu'il doit à ces illustres morts."</p> + +<p>The inn Pavilion d'en Haut is particularly comfortable +<pb n="169"/><anchor id="Pg169"/> +and reasonable, and the people very obliging. +Wishing to taste the crêpes we had seen before, +they procured some, and gave them to us hot—we +thought they resembled a greasy crumpet.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image34.jpg"> + <head>34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Auray is a good central point for visiting the +Celtic remains:—menhirs, dolmens, cromlechs, all of +which are as plentiful here as are calvaries, shrines, +and churches in Léon. They seem all concentrated +<pb n="170"/><anchor id="Pg170"/> +on these dreary wild landes, sometimes covered with +furze bushes, at others strewn along the coast.</p> + +<p>Next day we drove to Locmariaker, nine miles +from Auray, through Crach. On the right is the +river or estuary of that name; over which a bridge is +contemplated at La Trinité, to communicate with +Carnac. Locmariaker is at the extremity of the +peninsula formed by the rivers of Crach and Auray, +at the entrance of the Morbihan. It must have +been a place of some importance in the time of the +Roman occupation of Gaul, as there are the remains +of a circus, whose walls now enclose the cemetery, +of a Gallo-Roman house, with baths, frescoed walls, +and marble pavement. We picked up some fragments +of Roman bricks which lie strewn upon the +ground in great abundance. Midst these Roman +remains are gigantic menhirs, barrows, and dolmens, +vestiges of a still more ancient race. Locmariaker +has two large tumuli, both vast tombs.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 35. Sculptured Stone. Manné er Hroëck. Locmariaker.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image35.jpg"> + <head>35. Sculptured Stone. <lb />Manné er Hroëck. <lb />Locmariaker.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>We first visited the Manné-er-Hroëk, the Montagne +de la Fée, or de la Femme, which bears in the +marine charts the name of "Butte de César," for +it was the fashion with antiquaries to attribute to +Cæsar and the Romans every Celtic monument, +although bearing no resemblance whatever to any +work of these conquerors. The Montagne de la +Fée is a galgal or tumulus of elliptic form, about +thirty feet high, formed of dry stones. It was +<pb n="171"/><anchor id="Pg171"/> +opened in 1863, and found to contain a sepulchral +chamber or dolmen, outside of which lay a granite +stone above three feet long, inscribed with various +figures, and, in the middle, a cartouche, with +hatchet-shaped characters. There were also found +a number of celts (stone hatchets or knives), a green +jasper necklace, and some glass beads, which have +been transferred to the museum at +Vannes. The guide who furnished +the light and showed us the grotto +is the widow of a Polish officer. She +had a Scotch terrier, which she wanted +us to accept. The legend of the +mound is this:—A widow had the +misfortune of losing her only solace, +her son, compelled by law to embark +for foreign lands. Years rolled by; +he did not return. All said he was +lost; but the heart of a mother hopes +for ever, and the sad Armorican went +every day to the point of Kerpenhir, +whence she surveyed the ocean, and searched +the depths of the horizon with tearful eyes for the +purple sail<note place="foot"> +The sailors of the Morbihan cover their sails with a substance +which makes them of a dark red colour.</note> +which was to bring joy and peace to her +dwelling. One day, when she was returning sad as +<pb n="172"/><anchor id="Pg172"/> +usual to her desolate home, she was accosted by an +old woman, who enquired the cause of her troubles; +and, on hearing them, advised her to heap a pile of +stones, so that, mounting on the summit, she might +see to a greater distance, and perhaps discern the +long looked-for vessel. During the whole night the +two women worked, and carried in their aprons the +stones they gathered on the heath. In the morning +their task was finished, and the Bretonne was scared +to see the enormous heap that had been piled together; +but the other quieted her fears, and helped +her to climb to the top, whence soon the happy +mother beheld the vessel of her son. The fairy, her +assistant, had disappeared. This story evidently +bears a vague tradition of this tumulus having been +raised by a woman, and of some maritime expedition +made by him for whom it was probably +destined. The name of fairy is attached in Brittany +to everything—mountains, springs, grottoes, +rocks; every accident in nature is explained by a +fairy origin.</p> + +<p>The next object we saw is also attributed to the +fairies, the great menhir, called Men-er-Groách, or +stone of the fairies. It is the largest menhir known, +but it has been broken into three pieces, some say +by thunder. Put together, it measures about 67 +feet in length, and is 16 feet in diameter. The +wonder is how it was placed there, for it is little less +<pb n="173"/><anchor id="Pg173"/> +than the obelisk of St. Peter's, which took 800 to +900 men and 70 horses nearly a year to raise,—a +work which was the great triumph of Fontana the +engineer. The menhir is estimated to be one-third +the height of Notre Dame at Paris.</p> + +<p>Lying also prostrate on the ground, by the side +of it, is a smaller menhir, which is, however, above +30 feet long.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture. Dol des Marchands. Locmariaker.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image36.jpg"> + <head>36. Hatchet-shaped <lb />Sculpture. Dol des <lb />Marchands. Locmariaker.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Close to these gigantic menhirs is the large dolmen +(Breton, <hi rend="italic">daul</hi>, table, and <hi rend="italic">mœn</hi>, stone), known +as the "Table de César," or the "Dol des Marchands." +We walked under it to see +the curious hatchet-shaped figure sculptured +on one of the upper stones. The +common belief is that these dolmens or +table-stones were Druidic altars, and the +guides will show you the furrows for +the blood of the human sacrifice to run +down; but human bones having been +found under some of these dolmens, +lead one to suppose they were tombs. +In the Scandinavian countries the peasants +call them "Giants' Graves."</p> + +<p>The other great tumulus of Locmariaker is the +Mont Heleu or Manné-Lud, also opened in 1863, +and supposed to have been the sepulchre of a number +of persons, perhaps of a whole generation. It +has, like the Montagne de la Feé, a galleried chamber +<pb n="174"/><anchor id="Pg174"/> +or dolmen, the floor formed of an enormous +slab across the centre, on which is a sculpture +resembling a celt; other sculptured stones were found +in the same chamber. At the other end of the dolmen +was an avenue of stones, some supporting the +skeletons of horses' heads. This tumulus was probably +the tomb of some great warrior: the horses' +skeletons were the remains of a sacrifice, and the +human bones of beings who had been immolated +to accompany the earthly remains of their great +chief to another world.</p> + +<p>We took a boat for Gavr' Inis, or the Goat +Island, and embarked on the Morbihan (Breton, +Little Sea), an inland sea, that gives its name to the +department. Shut out from the ocean by the two +peninsulas of Locmariaker and Rhuys, which form +a narrow gully between the points of Kerpenhir and +Port Navalo, this sea contains an archipelago of +islands, numbering, according to tradition, as many +as the days in the year. Of these, the Ile aux +Moines is the largest. The arms of the sea forming +the rivers of Auray and Vannes run into it. The +navigation of the Morbihan is very dangerous, the +ocean entering it by this narrow opening in three +distinct currents; it is an endless labyrinth of rocks +and water; its granite shores, torn by the sea, are +indented with creeks, capes, and inlets.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image37.jpg"> + <head>37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<pgIf output="txt"> +<then><p>[Illustration: 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image3839.jpg"> + <head>Fig. 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p> +Gavr' Inis is a small island, surmounted by a tumulus, +<pb n="175"/><anchor id="Pg175"/> +which forms a conspicuous object, seen from all +the mounds and dolmens around. It is a galgal of +heaped stones, in the centre of which is a dolmen or +galleried chamber, which was opened in 1832, and +is the most curious monument in the Morbihan. +The gallery, with its square sepulchral chamber at +the end, is above fifty feet long and about five wide, +composed of two rows of granite menhirs, or upright +stones, which form the sides, with horizontal stones +resting on them, ending in a chamber consisting of +eight menhirs, with an enormous slab, thirteen feet +<pb n="176"/><anchor id="Pg176"/> +long, placed over them horizontally to form the +roof, and another, nearly as large, to form the floor. +These stones are of granite, and no cement is used +to unite them. They are covered with incised +figures of unknown meaning: sculptures in concentric +whorls or circles, as if tattoed like the cheek +of a New Zealander; and the only forms to be distinguished +are serpent-like figures, and the representation +of an axe, similar to those to be seen in +the Grotte des Fées, the Dol des Marchands, and +the Manné-Lud. In one of the side stones of the +chamber are two handle-looking projections, with a +recess behind, said, probably erroneously, to be the +place where the victims were bound. No celts or +other objects of antiquity were found in the grotto, +which must have been previously rifled of its contents. +<pb n="177"/><anchor id="Pg177"/> +These sculptures cannot have been executed +without the use of metal instruments. There are +also Celtic remains in the Ile aux Moines and other +islands of the Morbihan, but our guide did not +encourage us to extend our sail to visit them. The +current between the island and Port Navalo is sometimes +of great rapidity and violence.</p> + +<p>Next day we went to Carnac to see its marvellous +avenues of menhirs. The Celtic remains here are of +a different character from those of Locmariaker. +Here there is quantity, at Locmariaker size. The +monuments of the last are covered with strange +characters and signs; in Carnac they are all plain +and silent, according to the laws of the Druids, who +prohibited writing, in the fear of thereby divulging +their mysteries, and also that the people might not +neglect to cultivate their memories.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Tout cela eut un sens, et traduisit</q></l> +<l>Une pensée; mais la clé de ce mystère,</l> +<l>Où est elle? et qui pourrait dire aujourd'hui</l> +<l><q rend="post">Si jamais elle se retrouvera?</q>—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Cayat Delandre</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>Before reaching Carnac, we stopped at Kermario +on the left, and got out of the carriage to inspect +the army of large menhirs about the windmill. +They are arranged in eleven rows, some sixteen feet +high, placed with the small end in the ground. +They are all of a sombre grey, many of them +clothed with straggling lichens of various species. +<pb n="178"/><anchor id="Pg178"/> +This wild heathy tract was covered with the blue +flower of the dwarf gentian, and strewed all over +with menhirs. Before arriving at Carnac, the road +passes the avenues of Menec, all running in the +same direction as those of Kermario, from east to +west: among these are some of the largest stones. +The third large group, at <corr sic="Erdevan">Erdeven</corr>, we saw on our +way from Carnac back to Auray by another road.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">D'un passé sans mémoire incertaines reliques,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Mystères d'un vieux monde en mystères écrits.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Lamartine</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>We do not pretend to enter into the various +explanations attempted of this wonderful monument. +The legend at Carnac is, that St. Cornély, +pursued by an army of pagans, fled towards the +sea; finding no boat at hand, and on the point of +being taken, he transformed the soldiers into stones.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l rend="right"><q rend="pre">Les soldats de deux rois idolâtres</q></l> +<l>Poursuivaient notre saint dejà l'ami des pâtres,</l> +<l>Et sur un chariot trainé par de grands bœufs</l> +<l>Le bons vieux Cornéli se sauvait devant eux;</l> +<l>Or, voici que la mer, terrible aussi l'arrête;</l> +<l>Alors, le saint prélat, du haut de sa charrette</l> +<l>Tend la main: les soldats, tels qu'ils étaient rangés,</l> +<l>En autant de menhirs, voyez! furent changés.</l> +<l>Telle est notre croyance, et personne n'ignore</l> +<l>Que le patron des bœufs c'est ici qu'on l'honore;</l> +<l>Aux lieux où la charrette et le saint ont passés,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Le froment pousse encor plus vert et plus pressé.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>St. Cornély is the patron of bullocks. When a +<pb n="179"/><anchor id="Pg179"/> +beast is ill, his owner buys an image of St. Cornély, +and hangs it up in the stable till its recovery. In +the church of Carnac is a series of fresco paintings +portraying the principal events of his life, and outside, +a sculpture representing him between two bullocks. +The head of St. Cornély is preserved here; +the pulpit is of forged iron, and in the sacristy is +shown a silver gilt monstrance of the Louis XIV. +period, with a representation of the Supper at Emmaus, +chased in relief round the foot. We walked +to the Mont St. Michel, a tumulus of stones with +sepulchral dolmen, opened in 1862, but now closed. +It was found to contain objects of the "Stone" age, +a number of jade celts from four to sixteen inches +long, some perforated beads and pendents for a +necklace, and there were traces of burnt bones. +Like most monuments of Celtic origin, these tumuli +were regarded with religious veneration; and the +first teachers of Christianity, to enlist the old worship +to the cause of truth, marked each of these monuments +with the symbol of the new faith. Thus the +cross was placed on the menhir, and a chapel built +upon Mont St. Michel, and, as we have before seen, +on Mont Dol, and other high places of Druidic +worship. The little chapel dedicated to St. Michel, +which surmounts the tumulus, forms a conspicuous +landmark from every point, and commands a most +extensive view over the stones of Carnac ranged in +<pb n="180"/><anchor id="Pg180"/> +their eleven lines, on a treeless plain, the Morbihan, +and the long dreary peninsula of Quiberon.</p> + +<p>Returning by another route, we alighted at the +inn at Plouharnel to see a collection of jade celts, +gold torques, and necklaces of beads, found in the +neighbourhood, belonging to the landlord, M. Bail, +who has them all arranged in a frame. They were +discovered in a group of dolmens near the village, +opened in 1830, consisting of three grottos or allées +couvertes, a kind of triple dolmen, covered over with +a mound. The central grotto and gallery had been +opened before. The second dolmen had also a grotto +or allée couverte, in which was found an earthen pot, +containing ashes and three gold necklaces. In the +third were some fragments of pottery. Three gold +necklaces, composed each of a single plate of metal, +an inch and a half wide, with fragments of the +earthen vessels in which they were found, together +with stone celts and some pieces of bronze, extracted +from the dolmen, we afterwards saw exhibited in the +"Musée du Travail" of the Universal Exhibition of +1867. These dolmens belong to a much later period +of civilisation than those of Locmariaker—to the +"Bronze" Age.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 40. Dolmen of Corcorro.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image40.jpg"> + <head>40. Dolmen of Corcorro.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The number of dolmens in the Morbihan is estimated +at 250. In the department of Finistère they +are set at double the number. All are supposed to +have been originally covered with earth. The bodies +<pb n="181"/><anchor id="Pg181"/> +are more frequently buried than burnt. The dolmens +contain implements of stone and bone, occasionally +gold and bronze, but never iron. To judge from +the comparative quantities found in the different +departments, it may be assumed that they are the +work of people who have entered France from the +west, and have gradually worked their way by the +rivers and valleys further up the country. In this +secluded spot we found a large English family +located, ten in number; they had been living there +several months. Before reaching Erdeven, at Kerserho, +on a large lande or heathy plain, we arrived +at another series of the great Carnac army of stones, +of which they are a continuation. They are arranged +in nine parallel rows, as may be clearly distinguished +by standing upon one of the stones; but the lines +are rather interrupted by hedges and ditches. Some +are menhirs planted vertically on the end, others +enormous blocks simply laid upon the soil. They +extend half a league from north to south, more +numerous than Carnac, but generally not so tall, the +highest from ten to twelve feet, but very large. The +road is strewed with Druidic monuments. At Corcorro, +between Plouharnel and Erdeven, on a farm, +a short distance off the road, is a dolmen, the largest +in the Morbihan. Its original length appears to +have been 45 feet; the part preserved is 24 feet by +12 feet wide, and is covered with two slabs: one of +<pb n="182"/><anchor id="Pg182"/> +these is enormous, about six feet wide. It is used as +a cart-shed, and, when we saw it, contained bundles +of hemp and a hemp-breaker. One of the top +stones overhangs the others, showing the dolmen +to have been originally larger. A number of ragged +children clustered upon the top, as if they had been +accustomed to group themselves for a picture. They +effectually prevented any of us sketching the dolmen, +for, as soon as we began to draw, they all, in +number about forty, came down from their height and +pressed closely around us. From Auray we took a +<pb n="183"/><anchor id="Pg183"/> +carriage to Vannes, a tidal port, one league from the +gulf of Morbihan, and capital of that department.</p> + +<p>Its people, the Veneti, were the head of the +Armorican confederation, and commanded the fleet +in time of war. Their vessels had sails of prepared +skins, their cables were chains of iron. They traded +with the Scilly Islands, and brought back tin, copper, +skins, slaves, and dogs, objects of traffic with other +nations. The Armorican confederation made a +vigorous resistance against Cæsar, who sent round +for the Roman fleet and beat them in a naval battle +in the Morbihan sea. The Romans had attached +to their ships large sharp scythes which mowed down +masts and rigging, and a dead calm rendering the +enemy's ships immovable, they were soon taken, +burnt, or sunk. This battle ended the war with the +maritime states of the west. Cæsar showed little +mercy to the conquered: all the senators were put +to death, and the rest of the population sold by +auction to furnish the slave-markets of Italy.</p> + +<p>We walked to the promenade, called the "Garenne," +where Sombreuil, Renée de Hercé, bishop +of Dol, and twenty-two others of the emigrants, +were shot. Sombreuil was about twenty-six or +twenty-seven years of age, a native of Périgord. He +always persisted in the same account of the capitulation. +His last words were:-"Si j'avais pu imaginer +que des militaires pussent manquer à leur parole +<pb n="184"/><anchor id="Pg184"/> +donnée sur le champ de bataille, je n'aurais jamais +consenti à une capitulation; elle me cause des regrets +amers qui me suivront jusqu'au tombeau. Adieu, +Messieurs, nous trouverons justice et clémence devant +un tribunal où la fraude des hommes ne saurait +jamais parvenir." A republican officer offered to bandage +his eyes: "Non," he exclaimed, "je veux voir +mon ennemi jusqu'au dernier instant." Requested +to kneel, Sombreuil answered: "Je le veux bien; +mais je fais observer que je mets un genou pour +mon Dieu, et l'autre pour mon roi." Thus ended +the most ill-fated expedition that history has ever had +to record.</p> + +<p>The cathedral of Vannes has a richly-sculptured +north porch of Kersanton stone, and another, facing +the Rue des Trois Duchesses. Also, a Renaissance +chapel, called the Chapelle du Saint Sacrament or +du Pardon, with a hideous roof replacing the original. +Adjoining are the remains of the elegant cloisters of +the cathedral, with basket-handled arcades of the +fifteenth century. In the cathedral is also the chapel +of St. Vincent Ferrier, the great preacher of the +fifteenth century, whose labours extended over +almost every country of Europe—Italy, Germany, +France, Switzerland, and Great Britain. San Vicente +Ferrar, a Dominican monk, was the son of an attorney, +originally of Valencia, in Spain, of which city +he is the tutelar saint. In Spain he led the way in +<pb n="185"/><anchor id="Pg185"/> +preaching a crusade against the Jews and Moors, +who were persecuted by the Inquisition with the +most cruel bigotry. Invited to Brittany by Duke +John V., he fixed himself at Vannes, where, after +having evangelised the province, he died in 1419. +He was buried in the cathedral. The Duchess +Jeanne de France, daughter of Charles VI., was +present at his deathbed, and insisted on laying him +out. By her own desire, she was buried at his feet. +Philip II., King of Spain, desired his relics, but did +not succeed in obtaining them. The little house in +which St. Vincent Ferrier lived is preserved (No. 13, +Rue des Orfèvres). A tiny room, up a narrow staircase, +is now converted into a chapel, in which are +shown the stone which served him as a pillow, his +lamp, and other relics.</p> + +<p>The Maison du Parlement or Château Gaillau is +a curious old building, with its entrance by a stone +staircase and turret. Vannes was the usual residence +of Dukes John IV. and V., and had formerly three +châteaux: La Motte, of which the Hôtel de la Préfecture +occupies the site; Plaisance, half a mile out +of the town, where Duke Francis I. died; and La +Hermine, scene of John IV.'s treacherous imprisonment +of the Constable Clisson, which was razed in +1614. It had two towers—one demolished in 1770, the +other still standing, called the "Tour du Connétable," +because it was within its walls he imprisoned Clisson. +<pb n="186"/><anchor id="Pg186"/> +The Duke had resolved on his death, to prevent the +marriage of Clisson's daughter Marguerite to Jean +de Bretagne, Count de Penthièvre, son of Charles +of Blois.<note place="foot"> +Jean and his brother were twenty-eight years in captivity +in England. The King offered them their liberty, if they +would acknowledge him as their suzerain lord; but they would +not buy their freedom at the expense of their allegiance to the +King of France, who had always been the friend of their house. +His brother died in prison: Jean was ransomed through the +medium of Robert de Vere, Duke of Ireland, by the Constable +Clisson, that he might marry his daughter; but he only +exchanged his captivity to pass the remainder of his days +in wars against his suzerain, to gratify the ambition and resentments +of his wife.</note> The story is well related by d'Argentré.</p> + +<p>The Duke of Brittany summoned his barons and +knights to a council at Vannes, and entertained them +in the Castle de la Motte. He behaved in the most +friendly manner, and invited the Constable, the +Lords of Laval and de Beaumanoir, to see the castle +of Hermine he was building. He led the Constable +by the hand through the chambers, and when they +arrived at the keep, said, "Sir Oliver, there's not a +man who understands masonry so well as yourself; +enter and examine the walls well, and if you say it is +properly built, it shall remain." The unsuspecting +Constable ascended the staircase, when the door was +closed upon him and he was seized and loaded with +three pairs of fetters. The Duke ordered him to +be put into a sack, his hands and feet tied, and to be +<pb n="187"/><anchor id="Pg187"/> +thrown secretly at night into the sea. But the Constable +owed his life to the loyalty of Jean Bazvalen, +who, like another Hubert, did not obey his master's +commands, the laws of his sovereign being less sacred +in his eyes than the dictates of humanity and honour. +Clisson was set at liberty, on agreeing to pay 100,000 +livres and to surrender the town of Jugon and some +other fortresses. This perfidious attempt occasioned +a war of three years, and was retaliated by Clisson's +daughter and grandsons upon Duke John V.</p> + +<p>The Tour du Connétable, which formed the north-east +angle of the Château de la Hermine, is now +used as a museum of Celtic antiquities, and contains +various objects collected in the tumuli of the Morbihan. +We observed one very large jade celt, eighteen +inches long, found, we understood, in the Butte de +Tumiac. At Vannes the States of Brittany held +their sittings, and here took place the union of that +province with France, 1532.</p> + +<p>About twelve miles from Vannes is Korn-er-hoët, +demesne of the Princess Baciocchi, cousin of the +Emperor. It was formerly surrounded by woods +and the interminable lande of Lanvaux, which +stretches its desolate length along the Morbihan +from Baud to Rochefort. This district had been, +from time immemorial, the abode of some eighty +families of gipsies, who lived there in clay huts under +the rule of a chieftain. The sight of this barren +<pb n="188"/><anchor id="Pg188"/> +wilderness had so impressed the Princess Baciocchi, +in a tour she made in Brittany in the year 1857, that +she obtained the sanction of the Emperor to reclaim +it. She caused a temporary châlet to be built for +her occupation at Kern-er-hoët, and, superintending +the works herself, in a few years effected a wonderful +transformation. A model village has been formed, +with church and schools, a well-ordered agricultural +population organised, farm-buildings erected, roads +macadamised, the barren lande drained and reclaimed, +and the château surrounded by a well-wooded park.</p> + +<p>Great attention has been paid to the details of the +dairy farm; all the disposable milk is made into +Dutch cheese. The cows are those of Brittany and +Ayrshire; the pigs from England. The whole demesne +comprises about 1300 acres, and the benevolent +Princess resides entirely on the scene of her +labours, among the people whose condition she has +so ameliorated.<note place="foot">The Princess is since dead.</note></p> + +<p>From Vannes we made an excursion into the +peninsula of Rhuys, on the south of the Morbihan +Sea. We first stopped at Sarzeau, where Lesage, +the amiable author of 'Gil Blas,' was born, of whom +it was written on his epitaph:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">S'il ne fut pas ami de la fortune,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Il fut toujours ami de la vertu.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Then on to the ducal fortress of Sucinio, situated +<pb n="189"/><anchor id="Pg189"/> +on the borders of the ocean. It is a magnificent +ruin, built in 1250, by Duke Jean le Roux, to +deposit his treasures, in case an invasion of the +French should compel him to leave his duchy. +The position is well chosen, its situation on the seashore +enabling him easily to embark his treasures.</p> + +<p>This formidable "coffre fort" was a favourite +residence of the Dukes of Brittany, who came here +as a relief from the cares and ceremonies of a Court. +Its name, of which Sucinio is a corruption, Soucy-ny-ot, +synonymous with the Sans-Souci of the great +Frederick, shows its intention. This locality was +long celebrated for its fine air, and its peaceful character. +Louis XIV. used to say to his courtiers—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Désirez vous un pays de repos et de délices?</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Allez habiter l'île de Rhuys.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Partly demolished, Sucinio presents a mass of +now only picturesque ruins, a curious type of the +architecture of the thirteenth century. Five of +the eight enormous battlemented towers remain, and +the flamboyant window of the chapel on the upper +floor of the building is still preserved. Traces of +the portcullis and drawbridge are visible. Over the +gallery is an escutcheon, with a couchant lion +holding the arms of Brittany, between two stags, +also couchant, at the foot of a tree. The sea that +<pb n="190"/><anchor id="Pg190"/> +bathed the walls of the castle has been driven back +by the accumulation of mud and the crumbling of +the walls.</p> + +<p>Here was born Arthur III., Comte de Richemont, +Constable of France, and afterwards Duke of Brittany. +This illustrious man, equally great as a +warrior and politician, does not take his merited +place in the page of history, owing probably to the +partiality of French historians, who were always +jealous of the glory of Brittany. Except Du +Guesclin, no other constable has rendered greater +service to France.</p> + +<p>A prisoner at Agincourt, where he commanded +the van, he fought with the Maid of Orleans,<note place="foot"> +Jeanne had at first a great aversion to Richemont, as he +ridiculed the idea of the army being commanded by a woman. +Dunois effected a reconciliation. Richemont said to the maid—"Jeanne, +on me dit que vous voulez me combattre. Je ne +sais pas si vous êtes de par Dieu ou non: si vous êtes de par +Dieu, je ne vous crains en rien; si vous êtes de par le Diable, +je vous crains encore moins." It was through her mediation +he became reconciled to the King (1429). Two years afterwards +she was executed.</note> at Beaugeney, took Talbot captive at Patai, +reconquered almost the whole of Normandy, entered +Paris in 1436, and finally expelled the English by +the crushing victory of Formigny, having staked +his honour to drive them out of the kingdom. +<pb n="191"/><anchor id="Pg191"/> +Seven years after, he succeeded to the ducal crown; +but such was the confidence of Charles VII. in his +loyalty, that he retained the supreme command of +the French army with his new dignity. He reigned +only fourteen months. Richmont always caused +two swords to be carried before him when he appeared +in presence of the King; a naked sword, as +Duke of Brittany, and the other sheathed and the +point turned downwards, as Constable of France. +The title of Earl of Richmond, styled by the French +Comte de Richmont, dates from the Conqueror. +Alan Rufus, son of the Earl of Brittany, accompanied +Duke William to England, and commanded +the rear of the army at the battle of Hastings. For +these services, he was rewarded with the hand of the +Conqueror's daughter, and all that northern part +of Yorkshire, now called Richmondshire, where +he built, on the river Swale, the town and castle +of Richmond. The title passed through Alice, +daughter of Constance of Brittany, to Pierre de +Dreux, and descended through him to all the Dukes +of his house, until John IV., having gone over to +the King of France, was deprived of the earldom by +Act of Parliament, in the reign of King Richard II.; +but Henry IV. again conferred the title upon his +stepson Arthur, afterwards the celebrated Constable +and Duke of Brittany.</p> +<pb n="192"/><anchor id="Pg192"/> + +<p>We returned to breakfast at Sarzeau; then on to +the Abbey of St. Gildas de Rhuys, founded on this +inaccessible coast by St. Gildas, an English saint, the +schoolfellow and friend of St. Samson of Dol and St. +Pol de Léon, and which counted among its monks our +Saxon St. Dunstan, who, carried by pirates from his +native isle, settled on the desolate shores of Brittany, +and became, under the name of St. Goustan, the +patron of mariners.</p> + +<p>St. Gildas built his abbey on the edge of a high +rocky promontory, the site of an ancient Roman +encampment, called Grand Mont, facing the shore, +where the sea has formed numerous caverns in its +rocks. They are composed chiefly of quartz, and +are covered to a great height with innumerable +small mussels. The tide was too high to admit of +our entering into any of the grottoes, but the piles +of dark rocks beaten into every form by the violence +of the waves, rising sometimes to the height of +sixty feet, are very imposing. St. Gildas, in the +twelfth century, had Abelard for superior, who, on +his appointment, made over to Eloise the celebrated +abbey he had founded at Nogent, near Troyes, +which he called the Paraclete or Comforter, because +he there found comfort and refreshment after his +troubles, but his peace soon ended on his arrival in +Brittany. His gentle nature was unable to contend +<pb n="193"/><anchor id="Pg193"/> +against these coarse, ferocious, unruly, Breton +monks. As he writes in his well-known letter to +Eloise, setting forth his griefs:—</p> + +<p rend="small"> +<q>J'habite un pays barbare, dont la langue m'est inconnue et +en horreur: je n'ai de commerce qu'avec des peuples féroces; +mes promenades sont les bords inaccessibles d'une mer agitée; +mes moines n'ont d'autre règle que n'en point avoir. Je +voudrais que vous vissiez ma maison, vous ne la prendriez +jamais pour une abbaye: les portes ne sont ornées que de +pieds de biche, de loups et d'ours, de sangliers, des dépouilles +hideuses des hiboux. J'éprouve chaque jour de nouveaux +périls; je crois à tout moment voir sur ma tête un glaive +suspendu.</q> +</p> + +<p>But if Abelard hated the monks, they equally +detested him, and one day tried to poison him, but +he escaped through a gate in the garden wall, still +pointed out, to the sea shore, where his friend and protector, +the Count de Rhuys, awaited him in a boat.</p> + +<p>The abbey is now in the occupation of twelve +sisters of the "Charité de St. Louis," who have a +school for poor girls, and, in the summer, take in +families to board who come here for the benefit of +the bracing air of this fine wild coast. There is a +kind of establishment for bathing in the little bay +below the abbey. The board and lodging is moderate, +three francs and a half a day, wine, tea, and +sugar, not included. Boys are admitted up to +thirteen, but the men are sent into the town.</p> + +<p>Part of the abbey church is Romanesque: a semi-circular +choir, with three round chapels and the +<pb n="194"/><anchor id="Pg194"/> +transepts. The nave and tower are of modern date. +The pavement is covered with tumulary stones. +Four children of Duke John III. le Roux are buried +here, and one of Joan of Navarre and John IV. +In the Treasury are several pieces of plate, among +which is a Renaissance chalice, with six canopied +statuettes of Apostles forming the knop; and a cross +of the same period, a châsse of St. Gildas, his head +and arm both encased in silver reliquaries. His +tomb is in the church. Encrusted in the wall +outside the church are the figures of two knights +on horseback in mailed armour, conical Norman +helmets, long pointed shields, and lances in the +attitude of combat. The church and convent of +St. Gildas belonged to the family of Bisson, whose +self-devotion is commemorated by a statue at +Lorient. He passed here many years of his early +life, and wishing to preserve the buildings from ruin, +gave them as a present to the parish. St. Gildas +is called by the Bretons St. Feltas. There is a rude +coloured print in the church relative to the legend +of Comorre, or Comor, the Breton "Blue Beard," in +which St. Gildas plays a conspicuous part. The +story, as told by Emile Souvestre, is this:—Guerech, +Count of Vannes, the country of white corn, had a +daughter, Triphyna, whom he tenderly loved. One +day, ambassadors arrived from Comorre, a Prince +of Cornouaille, the country of the black corn, demanding +<pb n="195"/><anchor id="Pg195"/> +her in marriage. Now this caused great +distress, for Comorre was a giant, and one of the +wickedest of men, held in awe by every one for his +cruelty. As a boy, when he went out, his mother +used to ring a bell to warn people of his approach. +He shot a child in order to prove his gun; and, +when unsuccessful in the chase, would set his dogs +on the peasants to tear them in pieces. But most +horrible of all, he had had four wives, who all died +one after the other, under suspicion of having been +killed by either the knife, fire, water, or poison. +The Count of Vannes, therefore, dismissed the +ambassadors, and advanced to meet Comorre, who +was approaching with a powerful army; but St. +Gildas went into her oratory, and begged Triphyna +would save bloodshed, and consent to the marriage. +He gave her a silver ring, which would warn her +of any intended evil, by turning, at the approach of +danger, as black as the crow's wing. The marriage +took place with great rejoicings. The first day six +thousand guests were invited; on the next as many +poor were fed, the bride and the bridegroom serving +at table, a napkin under their arms. For some +time, all went on well. Comorre's nature seemed +changed, his prisons were empty, his gibbets untenanted; +but Triphyna felt no confidence, and every +day went to pray at the tombs of his four wives. +At this time there was an assembly at Rennes of the +<pb n="196"/><anchor id="Pg196"/> +Breton Princes, which Comorre was obliged to +attend. Before his departure, he gave Triphyna +the keys, desiring her to amuse herself in his absence. +After five months he unexpectedly returned, and +found her occupied in trimming an infant's cap with +gold lace. On seeing the cap, Comorre turned +pale; and when Triphyna joyfully announced to him +that in two months he would be a father, he drew +back in a rage and rushed out of the apartment. +Triphyna saw that her ring had turned black, which +betokened danger, she knew not why. She descended +into the chapel to pray; when she rose to +depart it was midnight, and she saw the four tombs +of Comorre's wives open slowly, and they all issued +forth in their winding-sheets. Half dead with fear, +Triphyna tried to escape; but the spectres cried, +"Take care, poor lost one! Comorre seeks to kill +you." "I," says the Countess, "what evil have I +done?"—"You have told him that you will soon +become a mother; and, through the Spirit of Evil, +he knows that his child will kill him, and that is +why he has murdered us, when we told him what +he has just learned from you." "What hope then +of escape remains for me," cried Triphyna."—"Go +back to your father," answered the phantoms. +"But how escape when Comorre's dog guards the +court?"—"Give him this poison which killed me," +said the first wife." "But how can I descend this +<pb n="197"/><anchor id="Pg197"/> +high wall?"—"By means of this cord which +strangled me," answered the second wife. "But +who will guide me through the dark?"—"The +fire which burnt me," replied the third wife. "And +how can I make so long a journey?" returned +Triphyna.—"Take this stick which broke my +skull," rejoined the fourth spectre. Armed with +these weapons, Triphyna sets out, silences the dog, +scales the wall, sees her way through the darkness, +and proceeds on her road to Vannes. On awakening +next morning, Comorre finds his wife fled, and +pursues her on horseback. The poor fugitive, seeing +her ring turn black, turned off the road and hid +herself till night in the cabin of a shepherd, where +was only an old magpie in a cage at the door. +Comorre, who had given up the pursuit, was returning +home that road, when he heard the magpie +trying to imitate her complaints, and calling out +"Poor Triphyna!" he therefore knew his wife had +passed that way, and set his dog on the track. +Meanwhile, Triphyna felt she could proceed no +further, and laid down on the ground, where she +brought into the world a boy of marvellous beauty. +As she clasped him to her arms, she saw over her +head a falcon with a golden collar, which she recognised +as her father's. The bird came to her call, +and giving it the warning ring of St. Gildas, she +told it to fly with it to her father. The bird obeyed +<pb n="198"/><anchor id="Pg198"/> +and flew with it like lightning to Vannes; but, +almost at the same instant, Comorre arrived; having +parted with her warning ring, Triphyna, who had +no notice of his approach, had only time to +conceal her babe in the cavity of a tree, when +Comorre threw himself upon his unhappy wife, and +with one blow severed her head from her body. +When the falcon arrived at Vannes, he found the +King at dinner with St. Gildas; he let the ring fall +into the silver cup of his master, who recognising it, +exclaimed, "My daughter is in danger; saddle the +horses, and let St. Gildas accompany us." Following +the falcon, they soon reached the spot where +Triphyna lay dead. After they had all knelt in +prayer, St. Gildas said to the corpse, "Arise, take +thy head and thy child, and follow us." The dead +body obeyed, the bewildered troop followed; but, +gallop as fast as they could, the headless body was +always in front, carrying the babe in her left hand, +and her pale head in the right. In this manner, +they reached the castle of Comorre. "Count," +says St. Gildas, "I bring back your wife such as +your wickedness has made her, and thy child such +as Heaven has given it thee. Wilt thou receive +them under thy roof?" Comorre was silent. The +Saint three times repeated the question, but no +voice returned an answer. Then St. Gildas took +the new-born infant from its mother, and placed it +<pb n="199"/><anchor id="Pg199"/> +on the ground. The child marched alone to the +edge of the moat, and picking up a handful of +earth, and throwing it against the castle, exclaimed, +"Let the Trinity execute judgment." At the same +instant the towers shook and fell with a great crash; +the walls yawned open and the castle sunk, burying +Comorre and all his fellow partners in crime. St. +Gildas then replaced Triphyna's head upon her +shoulders, laid his hands upon her, and restored her +to life, to the great joy of her father.—Such is the +history of Triphyna and Comorre.</p> + +<p>On our way back to Vannes we saw on our left +the Butte de Tumiac, or Butte d'Arzon, the largest +tumulus of the Morbihan. It was opened in 1853, +and found to enclose a chamber full of pulverised +bones and various curious objects. From Vannes +we also visited the stately castle of Elven, about four +miles from the station of that name; not built on a +lofty site, for, in the fifteenth century, the barons +had descended from their heights to places more +convenient of access, and where water was more +easily obtained. The Breton feudal lords of Rohan, +Rieux, Clisson, and Penthièvre, no longer required +fortified places as means of defence against the +French and English, but, in consequence of their +own internal divisions, to defend them in their wars +with their duke or among themselves. The castle +of Elven is situated in an insulated coppice wood, in +<pb n="200"/><anchor id="Pg200"/> +the midst of the lande of Elven. It was the chief +place of the lordship of l'Argoët (in Breton, "upon +the wood"), and is also called the fortress of Largoët.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 41. Castle of Elven.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image41.jpg"> + <head>41. Castle of Elven.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The ruins, which occupy a large enclosure, consist +chiefly of two towers; the principal one, 130 feet +high, is octagonal; the other, which is not above +100 feet in height, is split from top to bottom. The +<pb n="201"/><anchor id="Pg201"/> +battlemented walls are nearly 20 feet thick at the +base. A wide deep moat surrounded the castle, and +it was furnished with subterranean passages and +everything requisite to make it a model of the military +architecture of the fifteenth century. The +donjon has two granite staircases; one leads to the +top, whence may be seen Vannes and the Morbihan, +with its islands. Here, in 1793, the Royalists established +signals. In the castle of Elven, Henry of +Richmond, then only fifteen, with his uncle, Jasper +Tudor, Earl of Pembroke, were detained by Duke +Francis II. for fifteen years. Fugitives after Tewkesbury, +they were thrown by a tempest upon the shores +of Brittany. Henry was claimed both by King +Edward IV. and Louis XI., and was kept by Duke +Francis as a pledge of the good faith of Edward +towards Brittany. Perhaps also Francis may have +entertained some ill-feeling towards Henry from his +bearing the title of Earl of Richmond, which had +been held for more than three hundred years by the +Dukes of Brittany. Francis revived the claim to +the title which Henry VI. had conferred (1452) on +Edward Tudor, father of Henry. Subsequently, on +the assurance of the King of England that he only +required the release of Henry to invest him with the +Order of the Garter and to give him his daughter, +the Princess Elizabeth, in marriage, Duke Francis +made over the Prince to the English Ambassador, +<pb n="202"/><anchor id="Pg202"/> +and he was about to embark at St. Malo for England, +when the Duke's Grand Treasurer (Landais) arrived, +warned Henry of his danger, and helped him to take +refuge in the sanctuary of the church, whence he +afterwards withdrew him again to place him in +honourable captivity for twelve more years, till King +Edward's death. A party being formed in England, +aided by the Duchess of Brittany, Françoise de Foix, +Henry attempted a descent; but the plan being discovered, +after seeing the English coast, Henry was +obliged to return to Brittany and his ships were +scattered in a storm. Again within his power, +Landais listened to the offers of King Richard III., +and agreed to give him up; but Henry, informed in +time, left Vannes, threw himself into the forest, and +escaped to France, where he obtained from the regent, +Anne de Beaujeu, the assistance which enabled him +to mount the English throne.</p> + +<p>The castle of Elven, with those of Rieux and +Rochefort, belonged to the Maréchal de Rieux. +Elven was rebuilt by him with the materials of the +old; but they were all dismantled by the orders of +the Duchess Anne in 1496, to punish her guardian +for his revolt. Yet Rieux acted as he thought best +for the welfare of his late master and his daughter, +whose cause he defended against the interested views +of the King of France. Rieux had that keen sense +of honour which is one of the characteristics of the +<pb n="203"/><anchor id="Pg203"/> +Breton gentleman. When he reproached Anne de +Beaujeu, regent, to her brother Charles VIII., for +having instigated the King to attack Nantes, contrary +to his engagements, Anne replied, "He had no +written promise." "Et quoi, Madame!" he indignantly +exclaimed; "la parole d'un roy, ne vaut elle +pas mille scellez?" Louis de Rieux, the last of the +race, was shot on the Champs des Martyrs. True +to the motto of his house, "A toute heure, Rieux," +he showed himself ready "at any hour" to die for +the altar and the throne.</p> + +<p>Elven is the scene of M. Octave Feuillet's "Roman +d'un jeune Homme pauvre;" and the keeper who +shows the ruins points out the spot whence the +"Hero of Romance" took the leap to prove his +loyalty, and which gained him the hand of the lady.</p> + +<p>Next morning we started early by rail to Questembert, +to meet the diligence for Ploërmel, twenty +miles from this station, passing through Malestroit. +We saw quantities of chestnuts on our road, and +were told they were largely exported to England. +They come principally from the neighbourhood of +Redon and other places in the department of Ile-et-Vilaine, +where they grow as abundantly as described +by Madame de Sevigné, when writing from the +Château des Roches, in the same department: +"Pour nous, ce sont des châtaignes qui font notre +ornement. J'en avois l'autre jour trois au quatre +<pb n="204"/><anchor id="Pg204"/> +paniers autour de moi. J'en fis bouillir, j'en fis rôtir, +j'en mis dans mes poches, on en sert dans les plats, +on marche dessus, c'est la Bretagne dans son triomphe."</p> + +<p>Ploërmel derives its name (plo-ermel, land or +territory of Armel) from an anchorite of the sixth +century, who treated a dragon which ravaged the +country in the time of King Childebert in the same +manner as St. Pol de Léon disposed of the monster +at Batz.</p> + +<p>The façade of the church of Saint Armel has a +number of grotesque carvings—the sow playing the +bagpipes, the cobbler sewing up the mouth of his +wife, &c.; but it is principally remarkable for its +eight painted windows of the sixteenth century, +lately restored, and the monumental effigies of two +Dukes of Brittany; the one, John II., who was killed +at Lyons, where he went to settle some differences +with his clergy, on the occasion of the coronation of +Pope Clement V. A wall, loaded with spectators, +fell, and the Duke was crushed in its ruins; the Pope +escaped with being only thrown from his mule.</p> + +<p>The other effigy is that of Duke John III., or the +Good, whose death was the signal for the War of +Succession. He died at Caen. These tombs were +formerly in the Carmelite convent founded by +John II., who, on his return from the Holy Land, +established the first Carmelite convent in Brittany, +<pb n="205"/><anchor id="Pg205"/> +and brought monks from Mount Carmel to inhabit +it.</p> + +<p>The tombs were destroyed in the Revolution, but +the two statues were saved. They are of white +marble, and are placed on a monumental slab, side +by side, with this inscription: "De tous temps la +fidélité Bretonne rendit hommage à ses souverains." +Duke John II. is represented in a hauberk of mail, +the hood turned back, with cotte d'armes, shield, +and sword. Duke John III. has his head encircled +by the ducal crown, his hair long, his genouillières, +cuissarts, &c., of plate armour. His shield and cotte +d'armes are semé of ermines, and by his side is the +dagger of miséricorde, which served to kill the fallen +enemy unless he cried for mercy. When James II. +passed through Ploërmel after the Battle of the +Boyne, a fugitive and a dethroned monarch, the +Carmelite monks would not take him in; but he +found in the little village of Penfra the hospitality +they had refused him. Here is an establishment, +directed by a brother of Lamennais, the celebrated +author of 'Paroles d'un Croyant,' where people of all +nations—Indians, negroes from Senegambia, and +others—are educated and taught trades of every +kind, and sent back to their own countries.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 42. Column of the Thirty.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image42.jpg"> + <head>42. Column of the Thirty.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The people about Ploërmel and Josselin speak +French instead of Breton, the prevailing language of +the Morbihan department. It is nearly seven miles +<pb n="206"/><anchor id="Pg206"/> +between Ploërmel and Josselin. Equally distant +from each, at Mi-voie, in the centre of a star formed +by avenues of firs and cypresses, is an obelisk set up +to commemorate the famous "Combat des Trente," +which took place on this spot in 1351, and on which +are inscribed the names of the thirty who fought on +the French side. It was during that period of the +War of Succession when hostilities were carried on +by the two Jeannes, Marshal Beaumanoir, the Breton +<pb n="207"/><anchor id="Pg207"/> +commander of the garrison of Josselin for Jeanne +de Penthièvre, gave a challenge to Bembro', as he +is called, the English captain who held Ploërmel for +Jeanne de Montfort and her infant son, in consequence +of an alleged infraction by the latter of a +truce, agreed upon between the Kings of France +and England, in which it had been stipulated that +the peasants and those not bearing arms should be +unmolested. In spite of this compact, the English +soldiers devastated the country and committed every +kind of excess. Jean de Beaumanoir repaired to +Ploërmel to remonstrate, and it was agreed to settle +the dispute by a fight between thirty warriors from +each camp. The prophecies of Merlin were consulted, +and found to promise victory to the English. +The appointed place of meeting was by a large oak, +the "Chêne de Mi-Voie," on a lande or large plain, +half way from each town. The battle began with +great fury, at first to the disadvantage of the Bretons, +when Bembro' was killed, which threw dismay among +the English; but a German, who succeeded in the +command, rallied their courage, and the melée became +thicker than ever. Beaumanoir was wounded, +and his loss of blood and his long fast produced a +burning thirst, and he asked for water. "Bois ton +sang, Beaumanoir, ta soif se passera," was the reply of +Geoffroy du Bois; and Beaumanoir, forgetting his +thirst and his wound, continued the fight. The +<pb n="208"/><anchor id="Pg208"/> +English kept their ranks close, till Guillaume de +Montauban broke them by a stratagem and threw +them into confusion. He mounted his horse and +pretended to fly, then suddenly turned upon the +English with such force that he threw seven down +and broke their ranks:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Grande fut la bataille et longuement dura:</q></l> +<l>Et le chapple (carnage) horrible est deçà et delà;</l> +<l>La chaleur fut moult grande, chacun si tressua (sua);</l> +<l>De sœur et de sang la terre rosoya (rougit).</l> +<l>A ce bon samedi Beaumanoir si jeuna;</l> +<l>Grand soif eut le baron, à boire demanda;</l> +<l>Messire Geoffrey du Bois tantôt répondu a:</l> +<l>'Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, la soif te passera;</l> +<l>Ce jour aurons honneur, chacun si gagnera</l> +<l>Vaillante renommée, ja blâme ne sera.'—</l> +<l>Beaumanoir le vaillant adonc s'évertua,</l> +<l>Tel deuil eut et telle ire que la soif lui passa;</l> +<l>Et d'un côté et d'autre le chapple commença:</l> +<l><q rend="post">Morts furent ou blessés, guères n'en échappa.</q>—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh Calverly Croquart, +and others were made prisoners, and thus ended the +Battle of the Thirty; gained, however, in a most disloyal +manner, Montauban getting the aid of a horse, +when all the other combatants fought on foot.</p> + +<p>The Breton knights returned to Josselin, their +helmets decorated with branches of the broom—</p> + +<p rend="display"><q>In every basnet a bright broom flower;</q></p> + +<p>the place where the battle was fought running, +according to the French poem,</p> + +<p rend="display"><q>Le long d'une génetaie qui était verte et belle.</q></p> +<pb n="209"/><anchor id="Pg209"/> + +<p>Josselin is celebrated for its château, where died, +1407, Olivier du Clisson, the contemporary and +brother of arms of Du Guesclin, whom he succeeded +in the dignity of Constable of France, which no one +for some time would accept, not thinking themselves +worthy of replacing him. Both differed widely in +position and character. Du Guesclin, though of a +noble family, had not the advantage of fortune like +Clisson, who had immense wealth and landed possessions, +which made him a kind of sovereign in the +duchy. He willed away a million of money. Clisson +was a statesman, Du Guesclin's sole glory was in +arms. Clisson was cruel, intriguing, and insatiable +for riches; Du Guesclin was humane, loyal, and disinterested. +Both were equal in bravery and physical +force: the lance of Du Guesclin and the axe of +Clisson<note place="foot"> +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Olivier du Clisson dans la battelle va</q></l> +<l>Et tenant une martel qu'à ses deux mains porta,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Tout ainsi qu'un boucher abbatit et versa.</q></l> +<l rend="right">MS. <title rend="smallcaps">Chronicles of Bertrand du Guesclin.</title></l> +</lg></note> +carried all before them. Clisson joined +with Du Guesclin in freeing the country from the +"Great Companies," and his most celebrated action +was the defeat of the Flemings at Rosbecq. Few +subjects have been so powerful, or have filled so +important a part, as Olivier du Clisson. He was +true to his sovereign after his reconciliation, and to +<pb n="210"/><anchor id="Pg210"/> +his children after him. John IV. had scarce closed +his eyes when the daughter of Clisson, wife of Jean +de Penthièvre, came to her father and said, "It +depends only on you that my husband receives the +inheritance of Brittany." "How?" asked the Constable. +"By your ridding yourself of the children +of De Montfort." "Ah! cruel and perverse woman," +exclaimed Clisson; "if you live long, you will destroy +the honour and property of your children;" +and he accompanied his words with such violent +menaces, that, seized with affright, she fled from his +presence, and falling down, broke her thigh. The +prophecy of Clisson was fulfilled, as we shall later +relate. The ancient château in which he died was +destroyed by Henry IV.; the present building was +raised by Alain IX., Vicomte de Rohan, through +Alain VIII., who married Beatrix, eldest daughter of +the Constable, by which Josselin descended to the +Rohans,<note place="foot"> +Their name is said to be derived from—Roh-yan-Rock-John, +from a cadet of the family, who built his fortress on a +rock.</note> a house yielding to none in antiquity +and illustration, being descended from the ancient +sovereigns of Brittany, and allied with all the crowned +heads of Europe,—"Princes of Bretagne" they were +styled. But the Rohan family became unpopular +in the duchy, when John II. attached himself to +<pb n="211"/><anchor id="Pg211"/> +Louis XI. and France, for the bribe of 8000 livres +to himself and 4000 to his wife.</p> + +<p>At the battle of St. Aubin du Cormier, which +sealed the fate of Brittany, the Vicomte du Rohan +betrayed his brother-in-law Duke Francis and the +national cause, and fought on the side of France. +He afterwards marched at the head of the French +troops, and besieged Guingamp, where its brave +defenders declared, "As long as there is a duchess +in Brittany, we will not give up her towns." But +they took Pontrieux and Concarneau, and in 1491 +the Vicomte du Rohan was appointed by Charles VIII. +Lieutenant-General in Lower Brittany. He was +called by his countrymen the "Felon Prince;" and +so detested was he and his race, that it passed into +a proverb to say of a mean, treacherous, dishonest +person, "Il mange à l'auge comme Rohan,"—"He +eats at the manger (that is, the table of the King of +France) like Rohan." "Un peu de jactance," therefore, +justly observes Daru, in the proud motto of +the Rohans:—<note place="foot"> +This, with "À Plus" and "Plaisance," were the Rohan +mottoes previous to 1789.</note></p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Roi ne puis,</q></l> +<l>Prince ne daigne,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Rohan je suis.</q></l> +</lg> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 43. Château of Josselin.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image43.jpg"> + <head>43. Château of Josselin.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The château of Josselin stands by a river, on which +side it presents piles of towers and fortifications +<pb n="212"/><anchor id="Pg212"/> +covered with slate, a severe specimen of military +architecture; while on the other side, the cour +d'honneur, we see one of the handsomest châteaux +of the Renaissance yet remaining in Brittany. This +façade is richly ornamented with sculptures of varied +and fanciful design. Immense gurgoyles, in the +form of serpents, stretching from the roof to the +base, pierced <corr sic="ballustrades">balustrades</corr> or galleries of lace-like +delicacy, in which are introduced, according to the +fashion of the period, the initial letters of the Vicomte +Alain, A and V interlaced. The old Rohan motto, +"À plus," and the escutcheon of gules, nine mascles +or lozenges, occur in every part of this gorgeous +<pb n="213"/><anchor id="Pg213"/> +front, and also on the finely-carved chimneypiece of +the reception room (salle d'honneur). The whole +of the château is in course of restoration by the +Prince de Léon.</p> + +<p>In the church of Josselin is the tomb of the Constable +Clisson, with that of Marguerite de Rohan +his wife; both statues were mutilated in the Revolution, +but are now restored: they are of white +marble on a black slab. Clisson is in armour, +Marguerite has her hair plaited and confined in +a network of pearls; she wears a long robe, with a +surcoat above, furred with ermine. The motto, +"Pour ce qu'il me plest (plait)," is in an oratory +which belonged to Clisson, expressing his haughty +and overbearing will. This same motto appears on +his seal, affixed to a letter preserved in the archives +of the empire, and he is recorded to have had it +inscribed upon his Constable's sword, which, like +Du Guesclin, he always wore unsheathed, to show +he was ready at all times to fight the enemies of the +crown.</p> + +<p>There hangs in the church a picture of the finding +of the image Notre Dame-du-Roncier, of which +we relate the legend:—</p> + +<p>Long before Josselin was a town, a poor labourer +had remarked, on the spot where now stands the +church of Notre Dame, a bramble bush, which the +frost and snow of the roughest winters never deprived +<pb n="214"/><anchor id="Pg214"/> +of its leaves, but it always remained fresh and green. +Surprised at this strange phenomenon, he dug the +soil under the bramble, and discovered a wooden +statue of the Virgin. A marvellous light played +round the head of the image. The man carried it +home; but next morning, to his surprise, he found +the statue under the same bush whence he had taken +it. The miracle was repeated several times, and +soon attracted crowds of devotees. A chapel was +built to deposit the sacred image, houses followed +next, and a little town gradually formed, which the +Comte de Porhoët surrounded with walls, and Josselin, +his son, endowed with his name, 1030. Such +was the rise of Josselin. A celebrated pilgrimage +still exists to Josselin on Whit Tuesday, resorted to +by crowds of "aboyeuses" or barkers, people possessed +with this kind of epilepsy, said to be hereditary +in several families, and which is accounted for +from the circumstance of a party of washerwomen +having refused a glass of water to the Vierge du +Ronçier, who went to them disguised in the garb of +a beggar. The merciless creatures set their dogs +upon the pretended mendicant, and thus brought +down upon themselves and their posterity this fearful +malediction. The disease is supposed to return +periodically about Whitsuntide, and only to leave +the afflicted when they are carried forcibly to the +sanctuary of Notre Dame to press with their foaming +<pb n="215"/><anchor id="Pg215"/> +lips the fragments still remaining of the ancient +miraculous statue which was burnt upon the public +Place in the time of the French Revolution.</p> + +<p>We left Ploërmel at four o'clock in the morning +for Montfort-sur-Mer, passing through Plélan; while +the horses baited at a little auberge we got some hot +coffee, and found a good fire in the kitchen. The +landlady, shut in her "lit clos," did not disturb herself, +but occasionally put out her head to give +directions for our breakfast. On the left of the +road is the forest of Paimpont, which formerly extended +from Montfort to Rostrenan, a kind of neutral +desert land, called Brocéliande, and famous, +under that name, in the history of King Arthur. +It was the theatre of the fairies' most wondrous +enchantments. Here was the fountain of Youth +and also that of Barenton, where they came every +day to draw water in an emerald basin. Here, too, +the enchanted Merlin has lain sleeping for centuries, +enthralled by his pupil the fairy Viviana, who has +cast a spell upon her master she knows not how to +break.</p> + +<p>Montfort, where we joined the railway, is celebrated +for the legend of the duck and its ducklings, +and was the residence of the De Montfort family +until Guy Comte de Laval and Sire de Montfort +married Françoise de Dinan, widow of the unfortunate +Gilles de Bretagne, when the Montforts left +<pb n="216"/><anchor id="Pg216"/> +their paternal demesne for the châteaux of Laval, +Vitré, and Châteaubriant.</p> + +<p>The railway took us to Rennes, an uninteresting +modern French town, the old town was burnt down +in 1720, and straight streets have risen up, with no +traces of its having been once the ancient capital of +Brittany. Indeed, so French is it altogether, that +the saying runs—"Bon Breton de Vannes, bon +Français de Rennes." It was here that Constance, +heiress of the duchy, held her court, with Geoffrey +Plantagenet, who, with their unfortunate son Arthur, +were the only Plantagenets, dukes of Brittany. On +the murder of Arthur, his sister Alice carried the +ducal crown to her husband, Pierre de Dreux (called +Mauclerc, from his animosity to the clergy), and +from them descended the dukes of Brittany down to +Queen Anne, whose double marriage conveyed the +duchy to France and the Valois.</p> + +<p>When Henry IV. made his solemn entry into +Rennes, the Governor presented him with the three +silver-gilt keys of the city, of rich workmanship; +upon which the King observed, "Elles étaient +belles, mais qu'il aimait mieux les clefs des cœurs +des habitants."</p> + +<p>The following year we made a tour along the +banks of the Loire, and at Angers embarked on +board the steamer for Nantes. The scenery down +the Loire is rich, and the hills covered with vineyards, +<pb n="217"/><anchor id="Pg217"/> +islands planted with willows, and sunny villages, +or occasionally a gloomy fortress comes to +view. Ingrandes is the frontier town, half in Anjou +and half in Brittany, between the modern departments +of Loire Inférieure and Maine-et-Loire. +Lower down is St. Florent (Maine-et-Loire), with +its recollections of the wonderful passage of the +Loire by the Vendean army, so graphically related +by Madame de la Rochejacquelin, and near the +island of Meilleraie, where their brave General Bonchamps +expired, after the fatal engagement of Chollet; +his last act being the saving the lives of four +thousand prisoners shut up in the church, and about +to be executed by the exasperated Vendeans. "Grâce +aux prisonniers" were his dying words. Opposite +St. Florent is Varades, where the Vendeans landed +after crossing the Loire. Only a feeble post opposed +them. Had the republicans lost less time, and sent +a force after their victory at Chollet, much calamity +would have been spared to Brittany, and the Royalists +themselves would have been saved the terrible +defeats of Le Mans and Savenay.</p> + +<p>Passing Ancenis, which rises in an amphitheatre +on the vine-clothed hills, and, with its suspension-bridge, +is one of the most picturesque points in the +river, we reached Oudon, with its tall octagonal +tower; on the left, in the department of Maine-et-Loire, +nearly opposite, stands the ruined castle of +<pb n="218"/><anchor id="Pg218"/> +Champtoceaux, where Duke John V. was kept a +prisoner by the implacable enemies of his house, the +Penthièvre family.</p> + +<p>Marguerite de Clisson, widow of Jean de Bretagne, +Comte de Penthièvre, lived in retirement in +her stately fortress of Champtoceaux, with her three +sons, Oliver, Count of Blois, and his brothers. Marguerite +inherited the pride, hatred, and cruelty, of her +father, without his chivalrous loyalty and magnanimity. +The kingdom was filled with troubles, and +she thought it a favourable moment for reviving +the pretensions of her family. John V. held his +court at Nantes. She sent Oliver there to assure +the Duke that his mother and brother were ready +to do him homage; and he swore, on his own part, +"de le servir envers et contre tous ceux qui peuvent +vivre et mourir." John, delighted, made the young +man share his bed, and treated him with the greatest +distinction. Oliver expressed his regret that the age +and infirmities of his mother prevented her going to +court, and timidly insinuated the honour she would +feel at a visit from the Duke. The Duke consented, +and, sending off his plate to Champtoceaux, +started with his brother-in-law, Count Oliver, and +his attendants. Having passed the little river which +separates Anjou from Brittany, they saw a man +throwing the planks of the bridge into the water, +and thus preventing the Duke's suite from following. +<pb n="219"/><anchor id="Pg219"/> +At the same time, Charles de Penthièvre, Margaret's +second son, issued suddenly from a wood with an +escort of lances and surrounded the Duke. There +was no kind of indignity they did not make him +suffer. He was tied upon his horse like a criminal, +and conducted first to Clisson, Oliver leading him +with a halter round his neck. The Penthièvres, +who would not let the place be guessed where they +held their captive, conducted him at night, sometimes +on foot, from fortress to fortress, from dungeon +to dungeon; at the same time circulating the +report that they had drowned him in the Loire. As +a last insult, they took him to Champtoceaux, where +Marguerite visited him in prison to exult over his +misfortunes. Meantime the Breton barons, indignant +at the treason of which their Sovereign was the +victim, raised an army for his deliverance, and civil +war broke out with redoubled fury. His heroic +wife, Jeanne de France, showed an untiring energy +to save him. Undaunted by the threats of the +Penthièvres,—who sent word to her, if she did not +desist from hostilities they would cut her husband +in pieces, nor by the messages from the Duke himself +assuring her that her zeal would cost him his life,—she +induced her brother, the Dauphin, to order the +Penthièvres not to attempt the life of their prisoner; +she besieged, one after the other, all their castles, and +at last compelled Marguerite to capitulate to save +<pb n="220"/><anchor id="Pg220"/> +her own life. Finding herself and family in a perilous +position, Marguerite agreed that the Duke should +be released (he was at Clisson), and that she and her +sons should retire where they wished, on their promise +to appear at the summons of the Breton nobles. +Immediately on his liberation, Duke John ordered +the destruction of Champtoceaux. A parliament +assembled at Vannes in 1424, condemned Marguerite +and her sons to capital punishment, and +declared all the Penthièvre possessions to be forfeited +to the State. But the culprits had all escaped +the kingdom, except the youngest son, William, a +child only ten years of age, who had been given as +a hostage for the appearance of his mother and +brothers, and was condemned to languish for twenty-seven +years in prison, where he lost his eyesight—a +victim to crimes in which he had not been an accomplice. +John had made a vow, during his detention, +to give, if he regained his liberty, to the church of +Notre Dame at Nantes, his weight in gold; and +most conscientiously did he perform his promise, for +we read, "He placed himself in his war armour in +the balance, and caused the opposite scale to be +filled with gold till it had attained the weight of the +first; that is to say, three hundred and eighty marks, +seven ounces"—which sum was delivered over to +the church. Vows of this nature are not unfrequently +recorded. When Don Carlos, the ill-fated +<pb n="221"/><anchor id="Pg221"/> +son of Philip II., lay ill, he vowed to give to the +Virgin, on his recovery, four times his weight in gold +plate, and seven times his weight in silver. The +vow was fulfilled; but the Prince was placed in the +scale in a damask robe and fur coat, and weighed +only seventy-six pounds—so much was he reduced +by his long illness.</p> + +<p>Nantes is a cheerful, busy, handsome city, but +wanting in the picturesque characteristics of the +towns of Lower Brittany. Quimper, Vannes, Rennes, +and Nantes, have all been successively capitals of +the duchy, but Nantes was the usual residence of its +dukes.</p> + +<p>The cathedral contains its principal artistic monument, +the tomb of Duke Francis II. and his second +wife, Marguerite de Foix, called "sein de lys," from +the beauty of her complexion. It was erected by +their daughter, the Queen-Duchess Anne, and was +executed by Michel Colomb, a sculptor of St. Pol +de Léon, originally a herd-boy. This monument, +considered a masterpiece of the Renaissance, is not +copied from any Italian original, but is entirely the +offspring of the artist's own fancy. There is much +simplicity in its design and execution. The tomb, +about five feet high, is of white marble, diapered +with ermine and the letter F. On a black slab +repose the effigies of the Duke and Duchess, and +at their feet are lying a lion and a greyhound, holding +<pb n="222"/><anchor id="Pg222"/> +their several escutcheons. Four large allegorical +figures are at each angle of the tomb, representing +the cardinal virtues. Justice carries the book of +the laws, and the sword by which she makes them +respected. This figure is said to be the portrait of +the Duchess Anne. Temperance, in a monastic +dress, is characterised by a bit and a lantern. Prudence, +double faced, holds a mirror and a compass, +and has a serpent at her feet. This figure is in the +costume of a peasant girl of St. Pol; the second +face, that of an old man, is also in the dress of +Lower Brittany. Strength or Fortitude, handsome, +resolute, and calm, strangles a dragon with his +grasp.</p> + +<p>Upon the principal sides of the tomb are the +twelve Apostles, and below, in niches, sixteen +mourners (pleureuses) in monastic habits, the faces +and hands white, the rest of the body black. The +beautiful attitude of these figures is much admired. +Some are kneeling, others are seated—all in the +attitude and expression of prayer. This monument +was originally in the church of the Carmelites, +whence it was transferred to the cathedral.</p> + +<p>Besides the remains of Duke Francis and his two +wives, it formerly contained the heart of his daughter, +the Queen-Duchess Anne, enshrined in a golden +case in the form of a heart, surmounted by a crown, +and surrounded by a cordelière; but the tomb was +<pb n="223"/><anchor id="Pg223"/> +rifled during the Reign of Terror. It now holds +the remains of the Constable Duke Arthur III.</p> + +<p>Duke John IV. also died at Nantes, after his long +eventful reign, having acquired a military glory +which earned him the name of Conqueror, and +equalled that of Du Guesclin and Clisson. Twice +he lost and twice he regained his crown. He alienated +Du Guesclin and his faithful subjects by his +partiality to England. The Bretons rose, and he +fled to Edward III.; but when Charles V. entered +the duchy, with the intention of confiscating it +to the crown of France, the Bretons all united to +defend their nationality against the ambition of the +French King, and recalled their Sovereign. So great +was the enthusiasm on his arrival at St. Malo, that +the nobles plunged into the water to approach his +ship; and even the widow of his rival, Charles of +Blois, went to welcome him. His cowardly attempt +against the Constable Clisson again compromised +his reputation, and was disgracefully avenged upon +his son by the implacable daughter of Clisson.</p> + +<p>The old ducal castle still rises on the left bank of +the river. It was here Anne of Brittany was born, +and here she married, 1499, her old admirer, the +chivalrous Duke of Orleans, then King Louis XII., +according to her stipulation, that the King, "viendra +l'espouser en sa maison de Nantes." Left at the +age of eleven, by the death of her father, a prey to +<pb n="224"/><anchor id="Pg224"/> +claimants to her hand, which carried with it the +powerful duchy of Brittany, Anne was a prize worth +a king's seeking, even at a time when there were so +many other rich heiresses undisposed of—Mary of +Burgundy, Elizabeth of York, Isabella of Castille, +and Catherine de Foix. Anne is described as handsome, +but slightly lame, generous, and gentle, but +grave and proud in her demeanour. Louis XII. +called her his "fière Bretonne," and allowed her the +uncontrolled government of Brittany, "tout ainsi +que si elle n'estoit point sa femme."</p> + +<p>Though the wife of two Kings of France, Anne +never forgot the interests of her duchy, whose +nationality she always strove to maintain with the +pertinacity of a true Breton, and showed herself, by +her spirit and independence, to be the most worthy +of all her race to wear the ducal crown. Jean +Marot addresses her as "Royne incomparable, deux +fois devinement sacrée, Anne Duchesse de Bretagne."</p> + +<p>Like most of the ladies of her age, Anne was an +accomplished linguist. She understood Latin and +Greek, and most of the European languages. She +corresponded with her husband in Latin verse. Her +letters, still extant, breathe the most tender affection. +One, written to him (1499) during the Italian wars, +begins, "Une épouse tendre et chérie écrit à son +époux encore plus chéri, l'objet à la fois de ses regrets +et de son estime, conduit par la gloire loin de sa +<pb n="225"/><anchor id="Pg225"/> +patrie. Amante infortunée, il n'est pour elle aucun +instant sans alarmes. Quel malheur affreux que +celui d'être privé d'un Prince que l'on aime, d'un +Prince plus amant qu'époux."</p> + +<p>It was in this castle that Henry IV. signed his +celebrated Edict of Nantes, so fatally revoked by +Louis XIV.</p> + +<p>The Duc de Mercœur, when governor of Brittany, +made Nantes a regular fortified town. Having +married Marie de Luxembourg, heiress of the house +of Penthièvre, he sought to secure to himself the +duchy of Brittany, while his brother, the Duke de +Guise, aimed at the crown of France. Head of the +League in that province, he looked upon it as a +means of attaining his end: his wife joined him in +his plans of ambition, and they by turns tyrannized +and caressed the Nantais, amusing them with fêtes, +in which the Duchess condescended to dance with +the townsfolk. For twenty years Mercœur held the +province; but a peace was eventually signed between +him and Henry IV., through the mediation of +Gabrielle d'Estrées, whose son César de Vendôme, +then four years of age, was affianced to the Duke +de Mercœur's daughter, then only six. When +Henry IV. made his entry into Nantes after the +pacification, he observed, on surveying the fortifications, +"Ventre Saint Gris, les Ducs de Bretagne +n'étaient pas de petits compagnons."</p> +<pb n="226"/><anchor id="Pg226"/> + +<p>Nantes has been the scene of many an act of +vengeance on the part of the Kings of France.</p> + +<p>The Place du Bouffay, the place of execution, +was the scene of the tragic death of the young +Henri de Talleyrand, Comte de Chalais, executed by +Louis XIII. for his part in the conspiracy which +bears his name. Its object was the death of the +Cardinal, and to place the crown on the head of the +feeble Gaston, who was celebrating his marriage at +Nantes at the time that his victim Chalais was +paying the penalty of his crime.</p> + +<p>The restless, intriguing Cardinal de Retz was imprisoned +in Nantes Castle during the minority of +Louis XIV., and made a wonderful escape by letting +himself down from the walls to the river, where a +boat awaited him. It was also at Nantes that the +same monarch caused Fouquet to be arrested, not, +as alleged, for his malpractices in office, but because +his ambition and pomp offended the pride of his +royal master.</p> + +<p>For their part in the conspiracy of Cellamare, the +Marquis de Poncallec and three other Breton gentlemen +suffered on the Place du Bouffay, and the +Vendean chief, La Charette, was also there shot +in 1795.</p> + +<p>Not far from the castle is the Rue Haute du +Château. At the Maison Juigny, in this street, +the Duchesse de Berri was arrested, after having +<pb n="227"/><anchor id="Pg227"/> +remained sixteen hours concealed in an aperture +behind a chimney on the third floor, scarcely a foot +and a half high and four feet long. The police, +having information of her being in the house, +through the treachery of a Jew, had made a fruitless +search, but had left a watch behind. The soldiers +lighted a fire in the chimney, and the Duchess, with +her three attendants, sallied out, her dress completely +scorched. They had endured the heat, but were +unable to bear the suffocation.</p> + +<p>Nantes has some fine promenades and boulevards, +planted with trees. In the Cours Saint Pierre and +St. André are statues of the Duchess Anne and of +the three Breton constables, Du Guesclin, Clisson, +and Richmont.</p> + +<p>One of the leading characteristics of Nantes is its +numerous bridges: a regular chain of them form a +continuous line across the river and canals, and others +unite the islands which form the suburbs to the town +itself.</p> + +<p>The Museum contains a large collection of pictures, +which the bequest of the Duke de Feltre +(Maréchal Clarke) has increased considerably. These +consist mostly of sketches by Paul Delaroche, and +the charming Italian subjects of Léopold Robert.</p> + +<p>"L'enfant charitable"—a nun on her deathbed +embracing a child who is standing by her side, an +angel behind—is a touching composition of Ary +<pb n="228"/><anchor id="Pg228"/> +Schäeffer. Another, by Paul Baudry, represents the +death of Marat: Charlotte Corday's open, handsome +face, looks incapable of the crime she has just perpetrated. +There is one by Ziegler—Daniel in the +lion's den—an angel staying the lions from molesting +him. The atmosphere of light surrounding the +angel is wonderful and unearthly. These two are +in the general collection, together with numerous +examples of the old masters.</p> + +<p>Near our hotel is one of the curiosities of Nantes, +the Passage de la Pommeraye, consisting of three +stories of iron galleries or arcades, uniting the Rue +de Crébillon with the Rue de la Fosse. The second +arcade communicates by a flight of stairs with the +third, called the Galerie de la Fosse, opening upon +the street of that name.</p> + +<p>The Garden of Plants is beautifully laid out; groves +and avenues of magnolias in full flower, with rocks, +waterfalls, rustic bridges, all most picturesquely disposed, +making it one of the prettiest gardens and +public promenades in France.</p> + +<p>We descended the Loire by steamer, passing by +vast granite buildings, built as magazines for colonial +imports, called Les Salorges, in front of which the +horrible noyades of Carrier took place, and these +warehouses served as a temporary place of confinement +for the victims. We next steamed past the +island of Indret, the great manufacture of steam-engines +<pb n="229"/><anchor id="Pg229"/> +for the State. Here we landed some market +women, in caps of the same form, with high combs, +as those of clear muslin worn by the Nantaises, +only of a coarse material, and edged with black. +On the right was Couëron, where Duke Francis II. +died in consequence of a fall from his horse. The +battle of St. Aubin-du-Cormier had decided his fate +and that of his daughters,—a humiliation from which +he never recovered. His faithful friend Rieux, who +commanded his army, defeated by the youthful Louis +de la Trémouille; the chivalrous Louis of Orleans, a +prisoner in an iron cage in the "Grosse Tour" at +Bourges; and the safety of his daughters at the mercy +of King Charles VIII., or worse, of his imperious +sister, the Regent Anne de Beaujeu, who would have +committed some act of spoliation, had not the +Chancellor Rochefort saved the duchy by his integrity, +declaring to Anne that "a conqueror without +right is but an illustrious robber."</p> + +<p>At Les Pellerins, barges were loading with hay, +and heaps of it standing on the river's edge ready for +embarkation. On the left bank is Paimbœuf, where +diligences run to Pornic, a favourite little watering-place +south of the Loire.</p> + +<p>St. Nazaire is a bustling seaport town, now the +point of departure of the transatlantic steamers for the +West Indies and Mexico. A Mexican, in his picturesque +costume, all the seams of his dress fringed +<pb n="230"/><anchor id="Pg230"/> +with hanging silver buttons, was living in the same +hotel with ourselves. St. Nazaire has now a large +floating basin, opened in 1858, capable of holding +200 ships of large size, and another is in course of +construction.</p> + +<p>It was from St. Nazaire that Prince Charles, the +young Pretender, sailed on the adventurous expedition +of '45, furnished with a frigate and a ship of +the line by Mr. Walsh, of Nantes. Among the +noble cavaliers who had sacrificed everything to +follow the Stuarts into exile was the Walsh family, +originally from Ireland. They had shared the wandering +fortunes of Charles II., returned with him at +the Restoration to find the greater part of their +property confiscated; but they did not hesitate to +sacrifice the rest when James II. abdicated the throne, +and a Walsh commanded the ship which carried +the King to France. Sent on a secret mission to +England, he was recognized, denounced, and arrested. +James II. created him an Earl at St. Germain. Two +of his sons had retired to St. Malo and Nantes, and +engaged in commercial speculations, endeavouring +thereby to restore the fortunes of their house. Commerce +was strictly forbidden to the Breton nobles; +but, when war or misfortune had reduced their fortunes, +they were allowed to enter into commerce, or +any other profession, without derogating from their +rank, provided they first deposited their swords with +<pb n="231"/><anchor id="Pg231"/> +the Parliament, to be again claimed when their circumstances +were improved. All will remember the +anecdote in the 'Sentimental Journey.' As a book, +called 'The State of Nobility in Brittany,' published +in 1681, sets forth: "When nobles are engaged in +commerce, their noble blood sleeps; but when the +derogatory works are over, it revives. It is never +lost but in death." But to return to the Walsh +family. One of the brothers had embarked the +remains of his little fortune in the business of "armateur"—a +kind of shipowner, or one who fits out +and charters ships, and sometimes commands them +himself—the profession of Jean Bart and Duguay +Trouin.<note place="foot"> +The late Vicomte Walsh has written 'Gilles de Bretagne,' +and other novels, with all a Breton's nationality. His son, +the present representative of the family, occupies the beautiful +Château of Chaumont on the Loire, devolved to him by right +of his accomplished wife, the widow of the Comte d'Aramon.</note> +It was to this Anthony Walsh, and a banker +of Dunkirk, that Prince Charles addressed himself to +fit out an old worm-eaten seventy-gun man-of-war, the +'Elizabeth,' they had just obtained from Government +for his expedition. True to the hereditary loyalty +of his family, Mr. Walsh not only devoted all he +possessed to the armament of the frigate, but also +fitted out a brig, called the 'Doutelle'—both intended +as privateers to cruise against the English—and +took the command of her himself. On the +<pb n="232"/><anchor id="Pg232"/> +28th June, 1745, furnished with about 4000l. of +money, Charles Edward embarked on the Loire, in +a fisherman's boat, to join the 'Doutelle' at St. +Nazaire, and the 'Elizabeth' at Belle-Isle. He +passed for a young Irish priest, and wore the habit +of a student of the Scots' College at Paris. The +ships encountered an English man-of-war, the 'Lion.' +At the sound of the first shot, the Prince rushed on +deck and asked for a sword. Mr. Walsh, by virtue +of his authority as captain, took him by the arm and +said to him sternly, "M. Abbé, your place is not +here; go below with the passengers." The Prince +obeyed, night separated the combatants, and on the +18th of July he was safely landed in Scotland. On +Michaelmas Day, the following year, the disasters of +Culloden again threw him an exile on the shores +of Brittany.</p> + +<p>From St. Nazaire we took a carriage for Guérande, +to visit that remarkable district called the Canton de +Croisic, and consisting chiefly of that place and the +Bourg de Batz. We first came to Escoublac, a +corruption of Episcopi lacus, deriving its name from +a lake belonging to the bishop of the diocese.</p> + +<p>The old town has been entirely buried by the +moving sands which have blown over it, and, in +1779, its inhabitants transferred their houses to the +present site. Hills of sand surround it in every +direction.</p> +<pb n="233"/><anchor id="Pg233"/> + +<p>Here we left the high road, and turned off to the +left to Poulignan, a little white bay, as its name implies; +a charming retreat, with beautiful white sands +and picturesque rocks. This is a favourite watering-place +with the Nantais. Its whole population appeared +to be in the water. A row of small wooden +châlets are built along the shore for the bathers, no +machines are used.</p> + +<p>From Escoublac begins the large extent of salt-pans +in which consist the riches of this country. +They reach to Batz and Le Croisic, the peninsula +which forms this district having formerly been an +island which gradually has been transformed into a +marsh.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image44.jpg"> + <head>44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>These salt-pans, cut out into small squares, have +the appearance of one great chess-board, interspersed +with occasional hamlets and woods. The +working of them employs the whole population of +the district.</p> + +<p>They consist of large basins, dug at different +depths, into which the water of the sea is introduced, +and are divided into squares called "œillets." +The salt-water is turned upon the marsh by canals +styled "étiers," edged with narrow paths or roads +called "bossis," elevated, some of them, three or four +feet above the marsh; on these the newly collected +salt is generally laid. The water passes by a subterranean +conduit, the "coëf," into the "vasière," +<pb n="234"/><anchor id="Pg234"/> +where the first evaporation takes place; and then +successively into the "cobiers," "fares," and "adernemètres," +until it flows finally into the "œillets," +where the salt is definitively formed. Each "œillet" +is about 20 feet by 30. The heat of the sun +and the wind effect the evaporation, which the +paludier assists by stirring the water from time to +time. The salt which forms on the surface resembles +a kind of white cream, and exhales an +agreeable perfume resembling violets. This is the +finest salt; that which falls to the bottom of the +salt-pan is of a greyish cast. The salt when formed +is then scraped off, drained, and the women collect +it and stack it on the "bossis" into conical heaps, +which they cover with a coating of clay, to render +them impervious to weather. In the salting season, +the salt marshes with their innumerable hillocks of +white salt have the appearance of a vast tent-covered +camp. Each "œillet" produces about 150 lbs. of +salt. The same salt-pans are worked from century to +century by the same "paludiers" or their descendants. +The proprietors may change, but the workmen +remain, considering the salt-pans their prescriptive +inheritance. For payment, they receive one-fourth of +the salt. The dress of the paludier is a smock-frock +of irreproachable whiteness, with pockets, white shoes, +gaiters, and linen breeches, an enormous black flap +hat turned up on the side in a point or horn. The +<pb n="235"/><anchor id="Pg235"/> +<pb n="236"/><anchor id="Pg236"/> +<pb n="237"/><anchor id="Pg237"/> +young man wears the point over the ear, the married +turns it behind, and the widower in front. We +reached the Bourg de Batz in time for vespers, and +had an opportunity of seeing the people in their +Sunday dress. The men wear three or four cloth +waistcoats, all of different lengths, so as to let the +various colours, red, white, and blue, with which +they are bound, appear one above the other in +tiers, a muslin turnover collar, full plaited breeches +<pb n="238"/><anchor id="Pg238"/> +of fine cloth tied at the knee by garters of floating +ribbon, white woollen stockings with worked clocks +and light yellow shoes, their flap hats ornamented +with a roll of chenille of varied colours. The headdress +of the women is singular and most intricate. +The hair, in two rolls, twisted round with white tape, +forms a kind of coronet across their heads; over +this, a piece of net is drawn tight, forming a sort of +cap, describing a peak behind, and crossing in front +like a handkerchief.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image45.jpg"> + <head>45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The dress consists of several petticoats of cloth +plaited, red body, turned-up sleeves, and large +coloured bibs or plastrons which they call "pièces," +of the same stuff as their dresses. The girls' aprons +are plain, without pockets, but the women's are of +coloured silk, some of a rich brocade. A shawl +with fringed border completes the costume. Some +of the women had their heads and shoulders wrapped +up in a triangular, black, shaggy sheepskin mantle; +these were widows.</p> + +<p>At the inn where we alighted, they keep the splendid +costumes worn by the people at weddings and other +great occasions; and, by paying them for their +trouble, they will put them on for inspection. The +bride's costumes are of great magnificence; they +array themselves in three different dresses on their +wedding-day. First, a gown of white velvet, with +apron of moire antique; secondly, one of violet +<pb n="239"/><anchor id="Pg239"/> +velvet; and the third equally costly. Embroidered +sleeves, the "pièce" of cloth of gold, the petticoats +looped up with a wide sash, embroidered in gold, +and gold clocks to the stockings.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image46.jpg"> + <head>46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>We were shown a state bed, or "lit de mariage," +a tall four-post, painted red, with green reps tester +and curtains, embroidered with yellow chenille. +The great sign of wealth is to have the bedding +reach to the top of the bedstead. To effect this, +<pb n="240"/><anchor id="Pg240"/> +the base is formed of bundles of vine-stalks, over +which is spread the straw, and when this scaffolding +has been raised some feet, a paillasse is placed +over it, then the feather-bed, so that it literally +requires a ladder to ascend to the top of this mountain +of bedding, and then it is difficult to crawl +into it. There were a bolster and two pillows +covered with velvet, which, with the sheets, were +all trimmed with a kind of lace or cutwork.</p> + +<p>The houses are solidly built of granite, and +slated; the windows large. The furniture is good, +generally comprising a well-waxed carved oak +armoire, upon which are arranged earthenware plates +of various colours.</p> + +<p>The paludiers of Batz preserve their original type +distinct from the peasants of the environs; and +form, like the Jews, a separate people, intermarrying +among themselves, retaining their own peculiar +manners and customs. They are supposed to descend +from a Saxon colony. The paludier is tall +in stature; their women remarkable for their fair +complexions, which contrast strongly with their +sunburnt neighbours. They are loyal and devout, +true to their word, courageous and enduring; +though the paludier is miserably poor, from the +oppressiveness of the salt-tax, he never complains. +Begging is unknown. Their food consists of rye +bread, porridge of black corn, potatoes, and shellfish. +<pb n="241"/><anchor id="Pg241"/> +They are sober, and drink wine in small +quantities.</p> + +<p>Formerly the salt was distributed over the adjacent +provinces by means of "saulniers," the journeymen +labourers of the paludiers. Dressed in their picturesque +costume, with a train of mules, whose +tinkling bells announced their arrival, the saulnier +was welcomed in every village where he sold his salt +or exchanged it for other merchandize. "Le sucre +des pauvres," as salt has been aptly called, was +severely taxed under the old régime; distributions +of the "sel royale" were yearly made by the Government +among the gentry of the provinces, but the +poor, who had no such privileges, severely felt +the oppression, and smuggling was consequently +extensively carried on, and the "faux saulnier," with +his double bag across his shoulders, secretly sold salt +upon which the gabelle had not been paid. With +a faux saulnier originated the great peasant rising in +Brittany, the Chouan war; a war to which Napoleon +said, "All preceding wars have been but games." +Jean, father of the four brothers Cottereau, was a +maker of wooden shoes, and lived in a forest near +Laval (Maine). From his solitary life he had acquired +such sombre, wild, melancholy habits, that +people gave him the name of Chouan, Maine patois +for Chat-huant, and his family received the sobriquet +long before the insurrection of 1792. Jean +<pb n="242"/><anchor id="Pg242"/> +Cottereau was the most celebrated faux saulnier of +Maine; he had accidentally killed a revenue officer +in one of his encounters, and his heroic mother +made a journey to Versailles, barefooted, "sur le +cuir de ses pieds," to obtain his pardon. Jean's +master and patron was guillotined, his two sisters +shared the same fate, and one of his brothers died +of his wounds, and his body was disinterred by the +Revolutionists. These personal wrongs, the treatment +of the King, the interdiction of the Catholic +religion, its processions, its bells, the persecution of +its ministers, all goaded the Breton peasantry to +revolt; and Jean was the first to fire a gun against a +Republican at the cry of "Vive le Roi." The rising +began with a few peasants, armed with a gun or a +stick, dressed in short breeches open at the knee, +with leather gaiters, and coloured garters; their long +hair streaming over the shoulders, their heads +covered with a wide-brimmed hat, or brown or red +cap, sabots tipped with iron, and, in cold weather, a +loose coat of goatskin. The Chouans assembled in +small bands and attacked the Republicans at night +in ambuscade, and when they had killed a few +"Bleus" disappeared among the corn-fields or the +furze-bushes. Simple peasants, they fought against +the Republicans in defence of the altar and the +throne. Their "commandements" ran thus:—</p> +<pb n="243"/><anchor id="Pg243"/> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Ton Dieu, ton Roy, tu serviras</q></l> +<l>Jusqu'à la mort fidèlement.</l> +<l>Docile à tes chefs tu seras,</l> +<l>Afin de vaincre surement.</l> +<l>Sobre et discret te montreras,</l> +<l>Buvant peu, parlant rarement;</l> +<l>De ton chef jamais n'agiras</l> +<l>Attendant le commandement;</l> +<l>Violemment rien ne prendras,</l> +<l>Mais en payant exactement.</l> +<l>Age et sexe respecteras,</l> +<l>Etant soldat et non brigand.</l> +<l>Les comités corrigeras,</l> +<l>Et les mouchards chrétiennement;</l> +<l>Né Breton, tu n'oublieras,</l> +<l>Afin d'agir loyalement.</l> +<l>Dans le succès clement seras;</l> +<l>Dans le malheur, ferme et constant.</l> +<l>Chaque jour ton Dieu tu prieras;</l> +<l><q rend="post">Que peux tu sans son bras puissant?</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Such were the first Chouans: they had no organisation +until they followed Larochejaquelin and +the Vendean army to Granville, and accompanied +them in their retreat; when their numbers were +materially increased and their character completely +changed by the deserters and brigands, who joined +and eventually succeeded the peasantry.</p> + +<p>The church of Batz is of cut stone. It has a +square tower, surmounted by a cupola steeple, +which with that of Le Croisic serves as a landmark +to vessels having to steer between the two dangerous +rocks Le Four, in front of Le Croisic, and Les +Blanches, situated near the mouth of the Loire.</p> +<pb n="244"/><anchor id="Pg244"/> + +<p>The choir is inclined, like that of St. Pol and +others in Brittany. On one of the bosses in the +interior is a grotesque carving of a man torn to +pieces by the seven capital sins. On others are the +Santa Veronica, the Good Shepherd, Ste. Barbara, +&c. Near the church are the pretty ruins of the +chapel of Notre Dame-du-Mûrier.</p> + +<p>We drove on to Le Croisic, in Breton, "Little +Cross;" so called from the small chapel of the +Crucifix, built to commemorate the baptism by +St. Felix, Bishop of Nantes, in the sixth century, of +the Saxon colony who occupied the peninsula. Le +Croisic was one of the first towns in Brittany which +received Christianity, and bears for its arms a cross +between four ermines. Along the road-side are +cisterns or wells dug in the sand, and girls were filling +with water the classical stone pitchers they +carried upon their heads—quite an Eastern picture, +suggestive of Rebecca and the damsels of her +country. Le Croisic is almost surrounded by the +sea, low, and without shelter, which renders it cold, +damp, and exposed to the winds; turf is almost the +only fuel used.</p> + +<p>It is much frequented as a watering-place, and +has an Etablissement. It is also a sea-port, with a +rocky entrance to the harbour, and the dangerous +rock with its lighthouse, called Le Four, extending +for a league in front. The inhabitants of Le Croisic +<pb n="245"/><anchor id="Pg245"/> +are principally engaged in the sardine fishery, and +the curing of these fish consumes much of the salt +of the marshes. The people complain this year +they have no large orders for sardines, and there is +but little white salt.</p> + +<p>The chapel of St. Goustan, on the edge of the +harbour, is singularly built; its western gable perched +upon a little rock, half of which is inside and half +outside the building. The church is no longer +open for Divine service; but the peasant-girl who +desires to know if she will be married this year, tries +to pass a pin through the bars of the northern window +without touching the wall. On the opposite +side of the estuary are Périac and La Turbale, both +seats of the sardine fishery. Returning the way we +came, we stopped at the Plage Valentin, another +bathing-place in a pretty little bay; with dressing-rooms +and a small Etablissement. An omnibus +conveys the bathers from Le Croisic, for two sous. +The sea looks more inviting here and at Poulignan +than at Le Croisic, where there is so much seaweed +in the harbour. We returned through Batz; +the cathedral tower of Saint Aubin at Guérande is +to be seen at a great distance, and is a prominent +object in the scenery; the whole country is covered +with salt-pans. Guérande stands on a height, +and turning back, the view of the whole district is +most extensive. We passed through Saillé, where +<pb n="246"/><anchor id="Pg246"/> +Duke John IV. married Joan of Navarre, afterwards +the second wife of Henry of Lancaster.</p> + +<p>Guérande, built on a vine-covered granite slope, +is a singular old feudal town of the fifteenth century. +It was fortified by Duke John V., and is +nearly surrounded by granite walls, with ten towers +and four old gateways, placed at the cardinal points +of the compass. St. Michel, the principal gate, or +rather a fortress, is flanked by two high towers, and +contains the prison, archives, and hôtel de ville. A +moat formerly surrounded the walls; but it has long +been filled in, and boulevards substituted. From +the battlements hang festoons of honeysuckle and +ivy, and the moat is full of the yellow iris and water-lilies; +nevertheless, Guérande has an austere, sombre +aspect. There is a fine terrace walk, called the +Mail, commanding a view of the whole country +over Poulignan, Batz, and Le Croisic—a tented +plain of salt.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 47. La Roche Bernard.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image47.jpg"> + <head>47. La Roche Bernard.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The church of St. Aubin has Romanesque +columns, with grotesque capitals. In one, two +persons are sawing a third, stretched upon a wheel. +On the left of the double-arched porch, is a pulpit +outside the church, and there is some good painted +glass within. Notre Dame Blanche, a chapel of the +fourteenth century, is a pretty little building with +stone pulpit and a sculptured group of Notre Dame-de-la-Salette +with the two peasant children of Alsace. +<pb n="247"/><anchor id="Pg247"/> +Next day, we took a private carriage for La Roche +Bernard; the road lying over a wide extent of land +through Herbignac to La Roche Bernard (Morbihan), +which is most picturesquely situated on a +rocky height overhanging the Vilaine, here traversed +by an elegant suspension-bridge, opened in +1839, about 666 feet long and above 108 feet above +high-water mark—a terrible dizzy height to cross +even in calm weather. A few years since, the postman, +his cart, and horse were all blown over into +the river, and nothing more was ever heard of them. +<pb n="248"/><anchor id="Pg248"/> +We went fishing several days in a large étang close +to La Roche Bernard, and one evening took a +pretty walk over the hills to another pond situated +in a lovely secluded valley near a water-mill. La +Roche Bernard was an early Protestant colony, +founded by the Sieur d'Andelot, Seigneur of La +Roche Bernard, brother to Admiral Coligny, and +one of the firmest supporters of Calvinism. The +Calvinists used to assemble at his château of Bretesch, +where the minister of La Roche Bernard +came to preach to them. D'Andelot and his sister, +who was equally zealous in the cause, are, it is said, +interred at La Roche Bernard. Near the Halles is +a square block of houses; one of timber, with "Voie +au Duc" inscribed upon it. These houses are said +to have belonged to a Protestant community, and +all to communicate with each other.</p> + +<p>The evening of our arrival there was a wedding +supper given at our hotel, the grand dinner having +taken place elsewhere. The bride wore a white sash, +with wreaths of white flowers round her Nantais cap. +After supper the party danced Breton "ronds." The +dancers form a large ring (grand rond), holding +each other's hands, which they swing violently as +they sidle round in a kind of hop-skip-and-a-jump +step, accompanied by singing in a most monotonous +tone. This went on until midnight. This kind of +dance dates, they say, from Celtic times. The music +<pb n="249"/><anchor id="Pg249"/> +consists of the biniou or bagpipe, and the flageolet +or hautboy, sometimes with the addition of a drum. +The biniou, cornemuse, or bagpipe, is the national +instrument of western and southern France. How +it came to be introduced into Scotland and expel +the harp—which was as much the original music of +Scotland as of Wales and Ireland—is a mystery. But, +as in the sixteenth century the harp went out and the +bagpipes came into fashion, it may be surmised that +it was brought in, with other French novelties, on the +return of Queen Mary, perhaps by the Queen herself, +or, maybe, some itinerant player of the cornemuse +may have accidentally been in her train, and his +music set a fashion which has now become national.</p> + +<p>On market-day numbers of the women from +Muzillac, a place about ten miles distant, came in +with their fruit. They all wear an enormous plaited +black cap, which looks like the cowl of a friar. The +graceful form of the earthenware pots attracted our +attention: probably they came from the adjacent +town of Herbignac. The 15th August, Fête de la +Vierge, and also that of the Emperor, was kept as a +general holiday. An immense concourse of people +arrived from the neighbourhood, and attended the +six o'clock mass. We walked to the quay, to see +the sports on the water; the spectators picturesquely +grouped on a mass of bare rocks, commanding a +pretty view up and down the river.</p> +<pb n="250"/><anchor id="Pg250"/> + +<p>The amusements consisted of some races, and a +mât de cocagne, or greased pole, placed horizontally +over the river; the feat being to walk safely to the +end, where the prize was fixed, without falling into +the water. In the evening "ronds" were danced, +and every house had illuminations, in the shape of a +candle stuck in a potato, and placed on each end of +the window sill.</p> + +<p>Next day we left by diligence for Vannes, passing +through Muzillac and on to Auray, where we took +the steamer for Belle Isle.</p> + +<p>A steamer sails daily from the quay at Auray. +The banks of the River Loch are very picturesque, +the pine-trees (<hi rend="italic">Pinus maritima</hi>) growing to the +water's edge. On the left, the islands of the Morbihan; +on the right, Locmariaker; the view extending +to Carnac and Mont St. Michel, over the +whole sweep of the bay formed by the peninsula of +Quiberon.</p> + +<p>At Port Navalo we emerged from the Morbihan, +and, on our right, passed the little rocky island of +Teigneuse, with its lighthouse; and, on the left, +those of Houat and Haedik (the duck and the +duckling); the former famous as the retreat of St. +Gildas, who leaped from here with one bound, a distance +of ten miles, to the peninsula of Rhuys, where +he built his monastery. From Auray to Belle Isle +is in all forty-eight miles—ten miles of river to Port +<pb n="251"/><anchor id="Pg251"/> +Navalo, the rest open sea. After eight hours' sail +we reached Le Palais, the port and principal town of +Belle Isle, built on the north-east side, and overhung +by the citadel, the work of Vauban. The +town consists of one principal street—the Rue +Trochu—so called after the General of that name +and his brother, who were the first, at the beginning +of this century, to introduce agriculture into the +island. We passed, at a distance to the right, the +model farm of M. Trochu fils, on our way across +the island to the lighthouse,—a cheerless drive, as +there are no trees to be seen except near Le Palais. +When M. Trochu commenced his labours, agriculture +was little attended to in France, but he persevered +in his exertions, beginning by clearing about +sixty acres of granite rock, a land covered with heath +and furze, setting at defiance the Breton saying, +"Lande tu fus, lande tu es, lande tu seras." This +same district is now covered with rich meadows, +fine woods, productive arable fields, and magnificent +pasture land, on which horses are extensively +reared.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image48.jpg"> + <head>48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>We gathered on the heathy moor three kinds of +heath, the Cornish among others. The artichoke +grows wild in the waste grounds. Wheat, turnips, +beetroot, Indian corn, and potatoes, are the chief +produce of the land in cultivation. This last vegetable +was introduced by the families from Nova +<pb n="252"/><anchor id="Pg252"/> +Scotia (Acadia), who settled in Belle Isle, after that +province was ceded to England by the Treaty of +Paris, in 1766. This was several years before Parmentier +had extended the use of the potato, or +"truffe rouge," as it was first called, over other parts +of France. Indian corn was probably also brought +in by the Nova Scotians. The leaves are constantly +cut during its growth as fodder for the cattle, so +that the cob hardly attains a foot in height from the +ground. On the left of our road we saw in the distance +the village of Bangor, which gives its name to +one of the four districts into which Belle Isle is +divided. A little south is the fine granite lighthouse, +of the stupendous height of 450 feet. We toiled +up 255 steps (223 stone and 32 iron) before we +gained the lantern, and, though the view was very +extensive, we were rejoiced at finding ourselves safe +down. One of the guardians had been waylaid, +kicked, and beaten, a few evenings before, for some +slight grudge. He seemed in great suffering, but +had no doctor; the Breton, in his simple confiding +faith—that with the Almighty are the issues of life +and death, and that illness will end according to His +decree—considers the calling in of a medical adviser +but an unnecessary expense to his family. From +the lighthouse we walked to the sea-shore. Belle +Isle is a table-land, surrounded by steep cliffs, +averaging 130 feet in height, which can only be +<pb n="253"/><anchor id="Pg253"/> +<pb n="254"/><anchor id="Pg254"/> +<pb n="255"/><anchor id="Pg255"/> +descended to the shore in particular places. We +walked to the Grotte du Port Coton, where begins +the "Mer Sauvage," as it is called, an extent of five +to six miles of most picturesque rocks, some elevated +from 130 to 160 feet above the level of the sea, +jagged and torn into most fantastic forms by the +ceaseless dashing of the waters of the Atlantic, which +have formed various grottoes in the cliffs. We +descended into one of these caverns by a narrow +gulley, but could not proceed far, as the tide was +entering fast, and would soon have surrounded us, +cutting off all means of retreat.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 49. Device of Fouquet.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image49.jpg"> + <head>49. Device of Fouquet.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>It reminded us of the description in the 'Vicomte +de Bragelonne' of the grotto at Locmaria, which was +blown up, and crushed the mousquetaire Porthos, +at the moment of his and Aramis' triumph over the +soldiers of the King. So great at times is the fury +of the waves, that our guide at the lighthouse told +us he had seen on several occasions the spray driven +over to Le Palais, nearly five miles distant. Continuing +our walk along the cliffs, we came to an +enormous mass of rock, standing far out detached +from the cliff, and covered with screaming sea-gulls. +We again descended by another fissure into a pretty +sandy cove, surrounded by the same wild granite +rocks; but in most places there is no beach at all. +It was now high water, so it was useless to attempt +the Grotte des Apothécaires,—the finest, they say, of +<pb n="256"/><anchor id="Pg256"/> +them all, and we returned to Le Palais well pleased +with the remarkably wild coast we had seen. Belle-isle +forms now a canton in the department of Morbihan. +In ancient days it belonged to the Abbot of +Saint-Croix, at Quimperlé, who sold it, in the time +of Charles IX., to the Maréchal de Gondi, and, in +1573, it was erected into a Marquisate. (Cardinal +de Retz lived here after his escape from the castle +of Nantes.) One of his successors, Henri de Gondi, +being overwhelmed with debt, sold the island to +Nicolas Fouquet, the ill-fated Superintendent of Finance, +on whose disgrace, and his being subsequently +consigned to the fortress of Pignarol, his grandson, +the Marquis de Belle Isle, exchanged it with +Louis XV. for the Comté of Gisors, erected into a +duchy in 1742. Fouquet built a palace and completed +the citadel, for which he employed Vauban. +He also projected fortifications to enclose the town, +which are now in course of completion by the +Emperor, after Vauban's plans. Several guns had +just been landed, the day before we visited the +citadel, to see which an order is requisite. Near +the citadel is the "Maison centrale des détenus," now +only containing a few old men, too feeble for hard +labour. We were too tired to walk to look at the +celebrated cistern of Vauban, which holds, we were +told, above thirty thousand imperial gallons of water. +Fouquet's palace was, it is said, destroyed to complete +<pb n="257"/><anchor id="Pg257"/> +the line of fortifications. A house was pointed +out to us as having formed part of the original +building. Some years since, a stone was picked up +in the harbour bearing his +ambitious device—a squirrel, +with the motto, <hi rend="italic">Quo non +ascendum?</hi> "To where shall +I not rise?" The greater +number of the population of +Belle Isle are employed in +the fisheries; of these the +sardine and the tunny are +the chief. There are large +establishments for curing +sardines, which are very abundant, and lobsters, +taken in the rocks of Belle Isle and the little islands +of Houat and Hædic, are sent to London and Paris. +The boats go as far as Spain, to the coast of Catalonia, +for the tunny fishery, which extends from +August to the beginning of October. These fish +are taken by lines hung along the sides of the vessel, +with a bell attached to each to give notice of a +bite. The most esteemed part of the tunny is the +underneath, or "panse." The next morning we +sailed back to Auray. The nearest point to Belle +Isle is Quiberon, only ten miles from Le Palais. +From Auray by rail to Quimper, where we took the +diligence to Pont l'Abbé, an old town formerly of +<pb n="258"/><anchor id="Pg258"/> +some importance, in the midst of a fertile, rich country. +The costume worn at Pont l'Abbé and along +the Bay of Audierne is very singular. The cap, or +"bigouden," is composed of two pieces: first, a kind +of skull-cap, or serre-tête, fitting tight to the head +over the ears, then a little round bit, resembling, +the young people said, a "pork-pie" hat, made of +starched linen, pinched into a three-cornered peak, +the middle peak embroidered and tied on by a piece +<pb n="259"/><anchor id="Pg259"/> +of tape fastening under the chin; the hair is turned +up, "en chignon," over the skull-cap. The body +of the dress has a large "pièce" of red or yellow, +and sleeves to match. The men wear several very +short coats, one over the other, the shortest trimmed +with fringe; sometimes sentences are embroidered +with coloured woollens round the edge. It was +market day; the women were sitting, with distaff +and spindle, on each side of the entrance to the Halle. +Some of them have short bead-chains with a ring, +attached to the left shoulder, to stick their distaffs in +when not at work. There was abundance of fruit +and vegetables, potatoes, and sardines, which, with +bigoudens and other articles of dress, formed the +principal commodities for sale. Pont l'Abbé and its +Port, Loctudy, carry on an extensive trade with +Jersey, and large quantities of potatoes are exported +to that island. There were some Jersey merchants +at the table-d'hôte.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abbé.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image50.jpg"> + <head>50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abbé.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The church of Pont l'Abbé has only one aisle. +There is a fine rose window over the west entrance, +of great lightness and richness, with a smaller one at +the left; at the east end is another rose window of +larger dimensions, the mullions forming geometric +patterns, but differing in design from the other. The +French architects always took great pains in the +decoration of this part of the church, and these +wheel windows really rival those of Rouen.</p> +<pb n="260"/><anchor id="Pg260"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image51.jpg"> + <head>51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Attached to the church, are the cloisters of the +Carmelite convent to which the church formerly +belonged, built in the beginning of the fifteenth +century by Bertram de Rosmadec, who had so +much contributed to the completion of the cathedral +at Quimper. The square is surrounded by an interlaced +<pb n="261"/><anchor id="Pg261"/> +circular arcade, forming trefoiled pointed +arches, all in excellent preservation. The access to +the cloisters is through the conventual building, +now a private house and garden, the proprietor +kindly granting us permission.</p> + +<p>We drove to Loctudy, on the mouth of the Pont +l'Abbé river opposite the little island of Tudy, called +after an English saint of that name. Fleeing from +the persecutions of the Picts and Scots who desolated +his country, he founded here, at the end of the +fifth century, a considerable monastery, afterwards +destroyed by the Normans.</p> + +<p>At Loctudy is a curious Romanesque church, one +of the best preserved in Brittany, which dates from +the Templars of the twelfth century. It has a nave +with aisles going all round the choir, and three round +apsidal chapels at the end. The five arches on each +side of the nave are horse-shoe shaped, and the choir +is surrounded by the same number of high narrow +arches, resting on columns with grotesque capitals of +complicated design. The three chapels behind are +seen through the opening; on one of the capitals +is sculptured the cross of the Templars. The whole +building is spoiled by whitewash.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Chevaliers en ce monde cy</q></l> +<l>Ne peuvent vivre sans souci;</l> +<l>Ils doivent le peuple defendre,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Et leur sang pour la foi espandre.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Eustache Deschamps</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> +<pb n="262"/><anchor id="Pg262"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 52. Torche of Penmarch.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image52.jpg"> + <head>52. Torche of Penmarch.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>We engaged a rough kind of vehicle, much like +a butcher's cart, to visit the Torche de Penmarch, a +rocky promontory, so called from its fancied resemblance +to a horse's head, forming the southern +extremity of the department of Finistère. The +Torche is a mass of rocks separated from the mainland +by a chasm called the "Saut de Moine," because +<pb n="263"/><anchor id="Pg263"/> +an Irish saint, named Viaud, jumped across it on his +landing. In rough weather, the noise made by the +sea dashing against its sides and rushing through the +crevices of the rocks, is said to be heard at Quimper, +a distance of twenty-one miles. A line of rocks runs +all along the coast, marked by a lighthouse at Penmarch; +we proceeded to another group of rocks +near which M. de Châtellier, a proprietor and antiquary +of this country, has built a house for painting +and enjoying the scenery. One of our party clambered +down to see the "Trou d'Enfer," a tremendously deep +hole in the rocks, the bottom covered with a pink +sort of sea-weed, and the water as clear as crystal. +The whole country is a dreary sandy level, with salt-marshes, +over which we passed to the ruined church +of St. Fiacre, and close by is that of St. Guenolé, +both situated near the sea. The countryman who +showed us the church, knelt reverently down at the +threshold and put up a short prayer before he +entered the sacred building. The general devoutness +and strong faith of the Bretons is most impressive +and genuine, mixed, no doubt, with great superstition; +but, as Wesley says, "Heaven makes +allowance for invincible ignorance, and blesses the +faith notwithstanding the superstition."</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image53.jpg"> + <head>53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. <lb />Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>St. Guenolé consists of an unfinished square +tower, with crocketed pinnacles and a porch of considerable +size, under a large mullioned window of the +<pb n="264"/><anchor id="Pg264"/> +fifteenth century. On each side of the porch are +rude sculptures of ships and fishes, not uncommon +in these parts, set there to show the church has been +built with the thank-offerings of the fisher population +of the district. In our +tour we met with several +churches with this sign, evidences +of the piety of the +fishermen; indeed, at Dunkirk, +when the church was +burned down in the sixteenth +century by the +French, it was entirely rebuilt by the contribution +called "le filet saint," from an ancient custom among +the fishermen of having one net so called, the produce +of which was set apart for the church.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 54. Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image54.jpg"> + <head>54. Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Towards the lighthouse are the ruins of the old +town of Penmarch, much celebrated in the maritime +history of the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries; its +commerce extended even to Spain, and the riches of +its inhabitants were so surpassingly great, that they +drank out of silver cups, and the lords of a manor +near the Torche furnished the silk required to line +the road traversed by religious processions, their +wealth being due to the "viande de carême," that is +to say, to the cod fishery. But the discovery of +Newfoundland deprived them of this lucrative +monopoly, and the ravages of Fontenelle le Ligueur +<pb n="265"/><anchor id="Pg265"/> +<pb n="266"/><anchor id="Pg266"/> +<pb n="267"/><anchor id="Pg267"/> +completed their ruin. All now is a scene of desolation. +Penmarch has been called the Palmyra of +Brittany.</p> + +<p>Guy Eder Fontenelle, the Leaguer, who spread +terror and devastation throughout Brittany in the +sixteenth century, was a member of the Beaumanoir +family; the name he adopted was that of one of the +family estates. He was born in the Château of +Beaumanoir (near Evran), and his elder brother +early foresaw his guilty career. He escaped from +college and united himself with a set of young men +as lawless as himself; they formed themselves into a +band, which soon became the dread of all Brittany. +They ravaged the whole of Tréguier and Cornouaille, +surprised the châteaux of Coëtfrec and +others, took the church of Carhaix, which they +fortified, and the towns of Paimpol, Lannion, and +Landerneau, which they pillaged, Penmarch and +Pontcroix, whence they carried off an immense +booty and 300 vessels, with which they scoured the +seas; and lastly, Douarnenez and the Island of +Tristan (in 1595), whence fruitless attempts were +made to dislodge them. For three years Fontenelle +made this island his head-quarters, issuing from his +stronghold to devastate the country. He murdered +above fifteen hundred peasants at Plougastel, sank an +English ship, without allowing her crew a moment to +save themselves, imprisoned and tortured at Douarnenez +<pb n="268"/><anchor id="Pg268"/> +all who fell into his hands. His victims never +survived his cruelties more than three or four days, +when their bodies were cast out into the bay to the +fishes. These were only a few of his atrocities. As +he called himself one of the leaders of the League in +Brittany, the Duke de Mercœur, its chief, indignant +at the barbarities perpetrated in its name, caused +Fontenelle to be imprisoned, but he was liberated on +paying a ransom; and, fearing he would give Douarnenez +over to the Spaniards, Fontenelle was included +in the pacification of Mercœur with Henry IV. But +four years later he was implicated in the conspiracy +of Biron; on which occasion all his old crimes were +raked up against him, and he was condemned to be +dragged on a hurdle, and broken alive upon the +wheel, which sentence was executed on the Place de +Grève at Paris in 1602. In consideration of the +illustrious house to whom he belonged, the king +granted that in the act of condemnation he should +not go by his own name. We next went to see +the church of Saint Nonna in the town, the largest +of the numerous churches in the parish of Penmarch. +Ships are sculptured in front of the tower, +as at St. Guenolé. On the left of the porch is a +pretty window, the mullions formed by three fleur +de lis. In the church is a curious old painting +styled, "Procession du vœu de Louis XIII." Portraits +of the King, the Dauphin (Louis XIV.), +<pb n="269"/><anchor id="Pg269"/> +Anne of Austria, and Cardinal Richelieu, are introduced, +and a view of the church of St. Nonna is in +the background.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 55. Fleur-de-Lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image55.jpg"> + <head>55. Fleur-de-Lisé Window, Church of <lb />St. Nonna, Penmarch.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>On our way home we +passed, on the left, at Kerscaven, +two menhirs, one +curiously furrowed and +shaped like a half-opened +fan.</p> + +<p>We had a pretty drive +from Pont l'Abbé, with +occasional views of the +Bay of Audierne, extending +from Penmarch to the +Pointe du Raz. Midway the +horse, going down a steep hill, fell, and we all found +ourselves upon the road, but happily unhurt. We +met numbers of peasants returning from the fair at +Pontcroix; and our driver, a butcher by trade, coolly +stopped the vehicle, to discourse with them on the +price of stock, and to handle the sheep they had +bought. Our drive was enlivened with occasional +peeps of the Bay of Audierne till we reached the +little port of that name, the view of which is very +pretty. Audierne is approached by a bridge across +the river or estuary. At its entrance is a lighthouse, +and on the right a sandy bay, with bathing-machines +in the season.</p> +<pb n="270"/><anchor id="Pg270"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 56. Pointe du Raz.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image56.jpg"> + <head>56. Pointe du Raz.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + + +<p>The town consists of three streets of cut granite +houses, with the name of the builder and the date of +their construction inscribed over the door. Fishing +is the occupation of the inhabitants, and the table-d'hôte +at our comfortable, clean, little inn was plentifully +supplied with magnificent john dorys, large +red mullet, langoustes, and fish of every description.</p> +<pb n="271"/><anchor id="Pg271"/> + +<p>From Audierne we took a carriage to visit the +Pointe du Raz, a <corr sic="promonotory">promontory</corr> so famous for its +rocks and wrecks. We went through a treeless +country; near a pretty bay, on the left, is the chapel +of Notre Dame-de-Bon-Voyage, destined chiefly for +sailors, after which the country becomes more wild, +barren, and cheerless. We passed over a bridge which +no Breton would dare to cross at night, for fear of +being flung by the spirits into the river. According +to their belief, a hare appears on the bridge, and +terrifies the horses, who throw their rider, and the +traveller is dragged by the phantom into the muddy +river, where he is kept till morning's dawn, when he +is allowed to pursue his way, exhausted with cold, and +half dead with fright. They are very superstitious +here, as in all Cornouaille. A writer says, "every +nation of the earth has its superstitions and absurdities, +but Brittany has those of all other nations +united." An old woman in a village hard by, said +our driver, has never been seen inside the walls of a +church; the people say she has sold herself to the +evil one, and no one dares go near or speak to her.</p> + +<p>On the left is the pretty steeple of the church of +Plogoff, situated on an eminence, and dedicated to +Saint Collédoc, a Welsh bishop of the sixth century, +contemporary of King Arthur, and associated with +many of the doings of Queen Guinevre and the +knights of the Round Table. Lescoff is the last +<pb n="272"/><anchor id="Pg272"/> +village we passed through before—after driving over +a barren plain—we arrived at the lighthouse, built +thirty years back at the Pointe.</p> + +<p>We walked thence to the Pointe, a gigantic and +magnificent mass of rocks, eighty feet above the level +of the sea. We met with a good-natured woman, +who led the young people over the rocks to look +down the "Enfer de Plogoff." They had a slippery +scramble to reach the hole, a kind of tunnel through +which the sea rushes with great violence, so much +more terrible than that of Penmarch, that the noise +has been compared to the distant roaring of some +thousands of wild beasts issuing from the depths of +a forest. In the mean time, we remained seated on the +bank enjoying the view. On the south lay the Bay +of Audierne, extending in the form of a crescent, the +promontories of Penmarch and Raz forming the +extreme points. The currents, and the numerous +rocks of the bay, render it a dangerous coast, formerly +peopled by barbarous wreckers, who despoiled +the shipwrecked mariners as our Cornish men of old. +Opposite the Raz, about seven miles distant, is the +Island of Sein, and to the right, the Baie des Trépassés. +The island of Sein was anciently the seat of +an oracle, interpreted by nine Druidesses, who were +versed in every art and science. Moreover, they +appear to have been accomplished needlewomen; for +a Breton chronicler, giving an account of the <corr sic="corronation">coronation</corr> +<pb n="273"/><anchor id="Pg273"/> +of an early king (Erech) at Nantes, describes +his mantle as embroidered by these priestesses with +figures of Arithmetic, Astronomy, and Music. Their +skill in divination caused them to be associated with +the fairies; and Morgan—<hi rend="italic">i.e.</hi> "born of the sea"—one +of these priestesses, who lived in the first century of +the Christian era, was famous among the British +fairies.</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Avec succès cultivait la magie,</q></l> +<l><q rend="post">Morgan de plus, était assez jolie.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>Chateaubriand celebrates Velleda, the last of the +Druidesses of Sein, tall in stature, her eyes blue, with +long fair floating hair, dressed in a short black tunic, +without sleeves, bearing a golden sickle suspended +from a brazen girdle, and crowned with a branch of +oak. Here King Arthur was brought by Merlin to +recover of his wounds. The inhabitants of the island +were celebrated for their ferocity as wreckers.</p> + +<p>The passage between the island and the point +or Bec du Raz—"qu'aucun n'a passé sans mal ou +sans crainte"—is very dangerous, owing to the +number of rocks and the violence of the currents; +hence the well-known prayer of the Breton sailor, +"Mon Dieu, secourez-moi pour traverser le Raz, +car mon navire est petit et la mer est grande." +Having no wish to run the risk of being detained +at the island by rough weather, we did not attempt +the passage.</p> +<pb n="274"/><anchor id="Pg274"/> + +<p>The Baie des Trépassés, over which we looked on +the right, is so called from the Celtic legend that +the Druids embarked in this bay after their death, to +be buried in the island of Sein:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Autrefois, un esprit venait, d'une voix forte;</q></l> +<l>Appeler chaque nuit un pêcheur sur sa porte;</l> +<l>Arrivé dans la baie, on trouvait un bateau</l> +<l>Si lourd et si chargé de morts qu'il faisait eau,</l> +<l>Et pourtant il fallait, malgré vent et marée,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Les mener jusqu'à Sein, jusqu'à l'île sacrée.</q></l> +<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>The bay also derives its name from the numerous +shipwrecks that have taken place on its rocks, and +from the number of corpses that have been floated +there by the currents from ships foundered in the +gulf comprised between the entrance of Brest, the +Ouëssant Islands, and Sein. The whole extent of +the coast of Brittany is one long wall of rocks, placed +as it were to protect it from the inroads of the sea +and from foreign invasion. Heaped one over the +other, they resemble the bastions of a citadel, the +advanced rocks extending out to sea, jutting up in +every direction in endless reefs. Or its line of coast +may be compared to the jagged teeth of a comb, +with a second line of defence in the rocks further +out to sea.</p> + +<p>On the desolate shore of the Baie des Trépassés is +a piece of water, the étang de Laoual, site of the city +of Is—submerged by Divine vengeance, according +<pb n="275"/><anchor id="Pg275"/> +to popular tradition, in the fifth century—a place of +great commerce, arts, riches, and also of luxury. +Gradlon, or Grallo, the king, alone attempted to +stem the torrent. Built in the vast basin which now +forms the Bay of Douarnenez, it was protected from +the ocean by a strong dyke, the sluices only admitting +sufficient water to supply the town. King Gradlon +kept the silver key (which opened, at the same time, +the great sluice and the city gates) suspended round +his neck. His palace was of marble, cedar, and gold; +in the midst of a brilliant Court sat enthroned his +daughter Dahut, a princess who "had made a crown +of her vices, and had taken for her pages the seven +capital sins." Taking advantage of the sleep of her +father, Dahut one night stole the silver key, and +instead of opening the city gate, by mistake unlocked +the sluices. The King was awakened by +St. Guenolé, who commanded him to flee, as the +torrent was reaching the palace. He mounted +his horse, taking his worthless daughter behind +him. The torrent was gaining upon him fast, +when a voice from behind called out, "Throw the +demon thou carriest into the sea, if thou dost not +desire to perish." Dahut felt her strength failing +her; the hands that convulsively grasped her father's +waist relaxed their hold; she rolled into the water, +disappeared, and the torrent immediately stopped +its course. The King reached Quimper safe and +<pb n="276"/><anchor id="Pg276"/> +sound, and that town became afterwards the capital +of Cornouaille.</p> + +<p>So runs the legend. That a great city once +existed in the Bay of Douarnenez admits of no +doubt. Besides the religious chronicles of the +country, which have preserved the memory of its +existence, in the sixteenth century, remains of old +edifices were standing at the entrance of the bay, +old paved roads have been traced, and walls found +under water near the Pointe du Raz.</p> + +<p>The tradition of a town thus swallowed up is +common among the Celtic race. In Wales, the site +of the submerged city is in Cardigan Bay; in Ireland, +in Lough Neagh:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">On Lough Neagh's banks, where the fisherman strays,</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left:8">At the hour of eve's declining,</l> +<l>He sees the round towers of other days</l> +<l rend="margin-left:8"><q rend="post">Beneath the waters shining.</q>—<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Moore</author></bibl>.</l> +</lg> + +<p>One of our party went out fishing to the Pointe, +and returned well laden with his spoils.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image57.jpg"> + <head>57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>The road from Audierne to Douarnenez passes by +Pontcroix, a little town on the same river (Goazien) +as Audierne, along which the road runs—a charming +drive. It has a magnificent Romanesque church of +the twelfth (probably of the fifteenth) century, with +a remarkable porch, richly embroidered in quatrefoils +and trefoils. A tower in the centre, with octagonal +spire is second to none in Cornouaille, except that +<pb n="277"/><anchor id="Pg277"/> +<pb n="278"/><anchor id="Pg278"/> +<pb n="279"/><anchor id="Pg279"/> +of Quimper. The arches of the nave are horseshoe, +the transepts very narrow. Under the altar of the +Lady Chapel is a "Cène," half the size of nature, +sculptured in ivory and marble, of marvellous workmanship.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame de-Comfort, near Douarnenez.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image58.jpg"> + <head>58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame <lb />de-Comfort, near Douarnenez.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Eleven miles from Douarnenez we stopped to see +the pretty little chapel of Notre Dame-de-Comfort, +in a hamlet of that name, with light open-work +steeple. Attached to one of the arches, on the left +of the choir, is a wooden wheel, hung round with +bells, to which is attached +a long string. +It is erroneously +called "the wheel of +fortune;" but is, in +fact, the old wheel of +sacring bells in use +before the single +bell was adopted. The boy who showed us the +chapel pulled the string which was fastened to a +hook near the altar, and the wheel revolved and rang +a merry peal. Formerly there was a little wooden +figure attached to the wheel, which performed the +same office. The road runs round a hill, along an +estuary formed by the river, and suddenly the beautiful +lake, called the Bay of Douarnenez, bursts on +the sight, of a blue as lovely as the Italian seas.</p> + +<p>The dirty little town of Douarnenez is charmingly +<pb n="280"/><anchor id="Pg280"/> +situated to the south of the bay, the hills clothed +with trees to the water's edge. The Pointe du Raz +forms the western boundary of the bay, and it is shut +in to the north by the peninsula of Crozon; its extreme +point, Pointe de la Chèvre, advancing nearly +midway into the bay. The tide here falls eighteen +feet. The triple peaks of the Méné-Hom, one of +the Montagnes Noires, is a prominent feature in the +view. Islands are scattered over the gulf, and the +island of Tristan, retreat of Fontenelle le Ligueur, +is so close to Douarnenez, that it may be reached on +foot at low water.</p> + +<p>The hotel was crammed, gentlemen sleeping on +the billiard-table, or littered down in the room of +the table-d'hôte: the place was crowded. All the +world had flocked in to assist at the Pardon of Sainte +Anne-la-Palue, which was to take place the following +morning. No vehicle was to be had, and we were +in despair of being able to go, when a good-natured +voyageur kindly offered to drive us in his carriage—a +proposal we thankfully accepted. In all our wanderings +we had hitherto never been so fortunate as +to see a Pardon, and we were very anxious to go.</p> + +<p>The Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue takes place +the last Sunday in August, continuing three days, +and is one of the most frequented in Finistère.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 59. Costume of a Finistère Bride.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image59.jpg"> + <head>59. Costume of a Finistère Bride.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>At Plonevez-Porzun we turned off the Crozon +road, and about two miles further arrived at the +<pb n="281"/><anchor id="Pg281"/> +chapel. The road all the way was lined with peasants +walking to the Pardon. The young men of Douarnenez +wear blue jackets, embroidered in colours, +with rows of plated buttons, the sleeves and waistcoat +of a darker blue than the jacket, scarlet sashes, some +with plaited bragou bras and shining leather gaiters; +but most of them wore trowsers, their hair long, and +their hats with two or three rows of coloured variegated +<pb n="282"/><anchor id="Pg282"/> +chenille. The women had square caps, and +aprons with bibs. Those who were in mourning +wore light yellow caps, called "bourladins," stained +that colour with beeswax or saffron.</p> + +<p>St. Anne is a newly-built church, standing on the +slope of a down which separates it from the sea, in a +perfectly insulated situation. It is only opened once +a year for the Pardon. Round it were erected +numerous stalls, with toys, epinglettes, and rosaries +(chapelets), in heaps for sale; for rosaries must always +be purchased at the Pardon, to preserve the wearer +from thunder and hydrophobia. The great fabric +for them is at Angers, where they are made in +immense quantities. In the principal manufactory +a steam-engine is used for turning the beads; in the +others the common lathe. One maker told us she +sent annually into Brittany alone rosaries to the +value of 800<hi rend="italic">l</hi>. There were tents and booths erected +for the accommodation of the pilgrims who had +arrived the preceding day. They eat, drink, and +dance in the tents by day, and sleep on the tables at +night.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock, at the ringing of a bell, a procession +was formed, consisting of a long line of peasants, +preceded by priests and banners, which made the +round of the church; the penitents, en chemise to +the waist, barefooted, carrying wax-tapers in their +hands. The penance is sometimes executed by +<pb n="283"/><anchor id="Pg283"/> +proxy: a rich sinner may, for a small sum, get his +penance performed by another. One woman made +the round of the church on her knees, telling her +beads as she hobbled along. This was in performance +of a vow made for some special deliverance.</p> + +<p>We proceeded to the top of the hill, from which +the beautiful Bay of Douarnenez presented a most +lively appearance; fleets of small boats arriving from +every direction, and a huge steamer from Brest, +which was obliged to land its passengers in small +boats, on account of the shallowness of the water.</p> + +<p>The appearance of the downs now became very +animated, covered with gaily-dressed peasants arranged +in groups, sitting or lying on the grass, in +every kind of attitude.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock the grand procession took place. +First came the priests of all the surrounding districts, +with the banners and crosses of their parishes; then +followed five girls (three and two) in white, carrying +a banner, and eight more in similar attire, bearing a +statue of the Virgin. Next appeared the banner of +Sainte Anne, carried by women in the gorgeous costume +of the commune—gowns of cherry-coloured +silk, trimmed half the way up with gold lace, a silver +lace scarf, and aprons of gold tissue or rich silk +brocade. Under their lace caps was a cap of gold +or silver tissue. Four more of these superbly-dressed +bearers ("porteuses") carried the statue of Ste. Anne.</p> +<pb n="284"/><anchor id="Pg284"/> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image60.jpg"> + <head>60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Girls carrying blue flags walked by their side. Troops +of barefooted penitents and shaggy-headed beggars +closed the procession, which was followed by a countless +train of the peasants. It slowly wound its way +over the hill, and again descended to the church, +<pb n="285"/><anchor id="Pg285"/> +where it mingled among the crowds of assembled +spectators, which filled the churchyard and were +seated on the steps of the calvary.</p> + +<p>Not far from the church is the holy well of Ste. +Anne, where devotees were engaged pouring the +holy water over their hands and backs, dipping their +children, and testing its miraculous efficacy by various +other ablutions.</p> + +<p>We proceeded next morning to Quimper, having +had no opportunity of seeing Douarnenez itself. In +the season it is a favourite watering-place, the bathing +being about two miles from the town. It is a great +place for the sardine fishery. From Quimper we +went by rail to Rosporden, whence an omnibus runs +to Concarneau. The church of Rosporden is situated +on a little promontory, jutting out into a large étang +fed by the river Aven, which runs through it and +flows on to Pontaven.</p> + +<p>We took a carriage at Rosporden for Le Faouët, +passing by Scaër on the Isole, a stream which rises +at the foot of the Montagnes Noires, takes a curve +round the town of Scaër, and joins the Laita. It is +full of trout and salmon.</p> + +<p>Scaër is a town remarkable for having preserved +many old customs and superstitions; among others, +the bees are considered to be entitled to share in the +joys and sorrows of the family. Their hives are surrounded +with a red stuff on the occasion of a marriage; +<pb n="286"/><anchor id="Pg286"/> +with a black on that of a death. This custom +is still preserved in Wales. In all parts of Brittany +bees are treated with special affection. As the redbreast +is sacred, because she broke a thorn from the +crown of our Lord that pierced His brow, so are the +bees revered because, as we learn from the code of +Hoel the Good, though they were sent from heaven +to earth after the fall of man, the blessing of Heaven +has ever followed them in their exile. This, too, is +the reason the wax they produce has the privilege of +lighting the altars for the divine office.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 61. Cross Stones.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image61.jpg"> + <head>61. Cross Stones.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>It was the day of a Pardon, and the peasants were +all in gala dresses. A wrestling match unfortunately +had just been finished; for throughout Cornouaille +wrestling has been, from time immemorial, as favourite +a game as in our county of the same name. +Our driver tried without success to procure for us +some of the little double crystals, intersecting each +other at right angles, +called "pierre de croix"—by +mineralogists grenatite—found +in the Coatdry, +a small affluent of +the Aven, washed out of the mica slaty rocks in +which they abound. The peasants assign to them +a miraculous origin, and wear them in little bags +round the neck as charms against headache, blindness, +shipwreck, and hydrophobia, being, as they +<pb n="287"/><anchor id="Pg287"/> +allege, signed with the cross. According to tradition, +a pagan chief, having, in his impious rage, +thrown down the cross in the chapel of Coatdry, +Heaven, in memorial of the outrage, placed the sacred +symbol upon the stones of the river.</p> + +<p>At Le Faouët we again entered the department of +the Morbihan. This pretty little town is situated +between the Sterlaer and the Ellé. We first walked +to see the chapel of Ste. Barbe, perched, in the most +singular manner, in the cleft of a high rock, about a +mile from the town.</p> + +<p>After a steep climb we reached the plateau of the +hill, where is the monument of a M. Berenger, who +desired to be buried in this elevated spot, which +commands a charming view of the surrounding +country, the silvery waters of the Ellé winding at the +base of the mountain. We then descended, by a +flight of handsome, broad, granite steps, with balustrades, +to the chapel, placed on so narrow a space +that it was impossible to give it the usual inclination +to the east. The entrance-porch is to the southwest, +and the high altar opposite, against the walls +of the chapel, to the north-east. On the top of the +steps is the belfry, consisting of a roof, supported by +four columns. The day of the Pardon each pilgrim +rings the bell. The chapel was built in this singular +spot, according to tradition, by a knight, who was +overtaken by a storm in the valley of the Ellé beneath. +<pb n="288"/><anchor id="Pg288"/> +He saw an enormous mass of detached rock on the +point of falling down and crushing him, when he +invoked the intercession of Sainte Barbe, the guardian +saint against thunder, promising to build her a chapel, +if delivered from the danger. His prayer was heard; +the rock was stayed in its descent and rested on the +cleft, where, next day, the grateful knight began +building the chapel, as a thank-offering for his +escape. Above Ste. Barbe, stationed on an insulated +rock, one of the highest peaks in Brittany, is a small +chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, also approached by +a flight of stone steps, like Ste. Barbe, with bridge +built over an archway. The rock on which it stands +is so abrupt, that rings are placed along the sides of the +chapel for the pilgrims, when creeping round, to hold +on by. Many have perished in the attempt; none, +they say, have ever succeeded in making the circuit.</p> + +<p>There was a wedding at Le Faouët during our stay +there. Guests, invited from all quarters, to the +number of 250, arrived in their gala costumes, some +of them magnificent: one woman wore a gown +entirely of gold tissue; it was her wedding-dress. +The musicians, with biniou and hautboy, went round +to summon the guests. We saw the procession +going to church. The bride was prettily dressed, +with a high cap, beautifully "got up," pointed in +form, and trimmed with lace, and embroidered; a +muslin apron, also lace-trimmed, and a double muslin +<pb n="289"/><anchor id="Pg289"/> +shawl, similarly trimmed, the lace beautifully plaited; +a violet silk dress, white moire sash, and a small +bunch of white flowers. The bridegroom was "en +bourgeois." Outside the church door were tables, +laid out with cakes; after the service the bride and +all the party took each a cake and put money in the +plates, as an offering for the poor. They next +adjourned to the Place, where they danced three +"gavottes" under the trees. The ceremony of +stealing away the bride then took place; that is, she +was chased by some dozen of the youths of the company, +and he who had the good fortune to capture +her she treated to a cup of coffee at a café. Dinner +followed, and then they returned to the interminable +gavotte. They hold each other's hands "en grand +rond," then wind themselves round the centre couple, +executing most elaborate steps, and uncoil again to +return to the grand rond. We counted as many as +thirty couples in one gavotte. These festivities last +two, or sometimes three, days, during which time all +the wedding party are entertained free of expense.</p> + +<p>Le Faouët is a great fishing quarter. The Ellé, +which flows round the town, is a stream of considerable +size; and, four miles below Le Faouët, it is +joined by the Laita, and before Quimperlé unites +its waters with the Isole, whence its mingled streams +flow into the Atlantic, under the name of the Laita. +We were told that large fish were taken in a pond +<pb n="290"/><anchor id="Pg290"/> +in the grounds of the Abbey of Langonnet, not far +from Le Faouët, but it is strictly preserved.</p> + +<p>The people of this district retain all the old +Breton superstitions; they believe in the Car of +Death, drawn by six black horses, driven by the +"Ankou," or Phantom of Death, with an iron whip. +They also have full faith in the Washerwomen of +the Night (Lavandières de la Nuit), who wash the +shrouds for the dead, and fill the air with their +melodious songs:—</p> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Si chrétien ne vient nous sauver,</q></l> +<l>Jusqu'au jugement faut laver:</l> +<l>Au clair de la lune, au bruit du vent,</l> +<l><q rend="post">Sous la neige, le linceul blanc.</q></l> +</lg><lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">If no good soul our hands will stay,</q></l> +<l>We must toil on till judgment-day:</l> +<l>In strong wind or clear moonlight,</l> +<l><q rend="post">We must wash the death-shroud white.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>They engage the passer-by to help them in wringing +the linen; if he refuses, they drown him in their +washing trough, or suffocate him in a wet sheet. +Should he show himself ill-disposed, after having +agreed to help them, they dislocate his arm. If he +wrings the wrong way, his fate is inevitable; but if +docile and obliging, they give him some clothes and +dismiss him.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 62. Rood-Screen or Jubé, St Fiacre.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image62.jpg"> + <head>62. Rood-Screen or Jubé, St Fiacre.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>A mile and a half from Le Faouët, on a height +a little off the Quimperlé road, is the beautiful +<pb n="291"/><anchor id="Pg291"/> +<pb n="292"/><anchor id="Pg292"/> +<pb n="293"/><anchor id="Pg293"/> +church of Saint Fiacre, dating from the middle of +the fifteenth century, celebrated for its carved +wooden jubé, or rood-screen, and its painted glass. +The church is falling to decay. It would be tedious +to enumerate all the figures, and describe the details +of this beautiful jubé. The carving is a perfect +tracery of lace-work. Three large figures represent +our Saviour and the two thieves. Then there are +the Virgin and St. Joseph; the latter, with carpenter's +plane and hammer. Below, Adam and Eve, +and the Angel with the flaming sword. Two angels +hold cartouches, on one of which is inscribed, "L'an +mil C/IIII XX/IIII (1480) fut fait cette sculpture par Olivier +de Loergan;" and, on the other, "Cette passion fut +peinte l'an 1627. Yves Perez fabricant. Tous repaint +en 1866." Below are panels carved in the flamboyant +style, of exquisite workmanship. The two +middle panels have the sacred monogram, those on +the east side ermines surrounded by cordelières.</p> + +<p>The side of the rood-loft facing the choir has +pendents with grotesque carvings of allegorical signification.</p> + +<p>A man in an apple-tree, gathering the fruit, +symbolizes theft. Next comes a disgusting representation +of gluttony: a man relieving himself of a +pig he has swallowed, the tail alone remaining in +his mouth. Then follow a young man and woman, +gaily attired, emblematic of luxury. So far, three +<pb n="294"/><anchor id="Pg294"/> +of the "sept péchés capitaux" are represented; but +after these comes a national subject: a man playing +on the bagpipe. The figures throughout the rood-screen +are all boldly executed, and the tracery most +elegant and delicate.</p> + +<p>The painted glass in the church is considerable, +and represents the Life of Our Saviour, that of St. +Fiacre, the Feast of Herod, and the Martyrdom of +the Baptist, figures of the Prophets of the Old +Testament, with many others. In most of the subjects, +the figures are much mutilated. On one +window is inscribed, "Pierre Androuet ouvrier demeurant +à Kemperlé 1552." Over one altar is a +sculpture, representing the Martyrdom of Saint +Sebastian, between two archers, in the quaint costume +of the sixteenth century.</p> + +<p>About six miles from Le Faouët, is the ruined +castle of Poncallec, with its forest, étang, and forge; +once the demesne of the young marquis of that +name, who was implicated in that conspiracy to +transfer the Regency from the Duke of Orleans to +Philip V. of Spain, called the plot of Cellamare. Of +the hundred and forty-eight gentlemen included in +the accusation, all escaped to Spain, except Poncallec +and three others. Poncallec refused to +accompany them from a superstitious fear, a fortune-teller +having foretold he should perish by the +sea, "par la mer." They took refuge in a church, +<pb n="295"/><anchor id="Pg295"/> +but were surprised by a party of cavaliers who had +muffled the feet of their horses to reach them unheard. +They escaped through a subterranean passage, +and, for fifteen days, lay concealed in the +hollow of a yew-tree, fed in secret by faithful +peasants. Poncallec traversed France in the disguise +of a priest, but was arrested at the Pyrenees. +He with the three others were all convicted of high +treason, and, a few hours after their condemnation, +were beheaded at Nantes. Poncallec was the last to +suffer. When ascending the scaffold, he asked the +executioner his name; on his answering "La Mer," +Poncallec felt the witch's prophecy was fulfilled.</p> + +<p>The estates of the four victims were confiscated, +their arms effaced from the fronts of their houses, +the moats of their castles filled in, and their trees +(hautes futaies) cut down, "à hauteur d'infamie," +that is, within nine feet of the ground, in like +manner as were those of Moor Park, after the +execution of the Duke of Monmouth. A list was +presented to the Regent Philip of other offenders, +but he tore the paper, and published an amnesty. +The story of Poncallec is dramatically told by +Alexandre Dumas, in his novel, called 'Une fille du +Regent.' The Bretons honoured the victims as +martyrs, and M. de la Villemarqué, in his 'Chansons +Bretons,' gives a touching elegy which shows the +sympathy excited by the tragic fate of Poncallec:</p> +<pb n="296"/><anchor id="Pg296"/> + +<lg rend="display"> +<l><q rend="pre">Quand il arriva à Nantes, il fut jugé et condamné,</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left:4">Condamné non par ses pairs,</l> +<l>Mais par des gens tombés de derrière les carrosses.</l> +<l rend="margin-left:6">Ils demandèrent à Poncallec:</l> +<l rend="margin-left:6">'Seigneur marquis, qu'avez vous fait?</l> +<l rend="margin-left:6">—Mon devoir; faites notre métier.'</l> +<l>Il est mort, chers pauvres, celui qui vous nourissait,</l> +<l>Qui vous vêtissait, qui vous soutenait;</l> +<l>Il est mort celui qui vous aimait, habitants de Berné</l> +<l>Celui qui aimait son pays et qui l'a aimé jusqu'à mourir.</l> +<l rend="margin-left:8">Il est mort à vingt-deux ans</l> +<l rend="margin-left:2">Comme meurent les martyrs et les saints;</l> +<l rend="margin-left:8">Que dieu ait pitié de son âme!</l> +<l rend="margin-left:2">Le seigneur est mort … Ma voix s'éteint, …</l> +<l rend="margin-left:2">Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit, sois maudit;</l> +<l rend="margin-left:8"><q rend="post">Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p>We left Le Faouët and its comfortable primitive +inn, the "Lion d'Or," with much regret; the +country around is beautiful, and we had arranged +to set out early that we might cross the Montagnes +Noires by daylight; but we were disappointed in +procuring a carriage, and it was not till late in the +afternoon that we were able to leave in a diligence, +of which the coupé alone was reserved to us, the +interior being occupied by Breton farmers, returning +from a horse-fair. From the elevated wooded +ground of Le Faouët, the road makes a precipitous +descent, and crosses the little stream of Moulin-au-duc, +after which it again rises, in a winding direction, +along the side of a mountain with a valley +and little stream beneath. Then a rapid descent +<pb n="297"/><anchor id="Pg297"/> +brought us to Gourin, where we would gladly have +risked staying the night, and waited till morning to +pursue our road over the mountains, but we had +paid our fare to Carhaix. Up hill and down again, +like all the roads in mountainous Finistère, from +Gourin we ascended again and passed a crest of the +Montagnes Noires, which separates the three departments +of Finistère, Morbihan, and Côtes-du-Nord; +and proceeded through a valley to Carhaix, +where we arrived at midnight, and therefore had no +opportunity of seeing the beauties of the mountain +scenery.</p> + +<p>Carhaix is a dirty, unpaved, dull town of the +middle ages, much decayed from its ancient importance +when capital of the country dismembered +from Cornouaille, in the sixth century, by Comorre +the Breton Bluebeard. It is situated on an eminence, +commanding an extensive view of the barren +monotonous surrounding country, bounded by the +Arré mountains, the Alps of Finistère. It is +the centre of Lower Brittany, and the Duke +d'Aiguillon, Minister of Louis XV., caused six +roads to be made from it to Brest, Quimper, +Morlaix, St. Brieux, Vannes, and Châteaulin, with +the hope of introducing commerce and civilisation +into this barren district, "le dernier trou du monde," +as it is styled by the Parisian.</p> + +<p>La Tour d'Auvergne, Premier Grenadier de +<pb n="298"/><anchor id="Pg298"/> +France, was born here, and a bronze statue of +him, by Marochetti, has been erected to his memory. +He is in the uniform of a private soldier, +and presses to his heart the sword of honour just +presented to him by the First Consul. Round the +pedestal are four bas-reliefs, representing scenes in +his life. In the first, he saves a wounded soldier; +in the second, he forces the gates of Chambery; +in the third, he takes leave of the parents of a youth, +for whom he goes as a substitute into the army. +The last represents his death; he was killed by a +lance at Ober-hausen (Bavaria), fighting against the +Austrians. The monument bears this inscription +on its four sides:—</p> + +<p rend="small"><q rend="pre">La Tour d'Auvergne, 1^er Grenadier de France, né à Carhaix +le 23 Decembre, 1715; mort au champ d'honneur le 27 +Juin, 1800.</q></p> + +<p rend="small"><q rend="pre">Ecrivain, Citoyen, Soldat, sa vie toujours glorieusement +remplie ne laisse que de sublimes exemples à la posterité.</q></p> + +<p rend="small"><q rend="pre">Tant de talens, et de vertus, appartenaient à l'histoire et +au premier Consul, de les devancer.</q></p> + +<p rend="small"><q>Celui qui meurt dans une lutte sacrée trouve pour le repos +une patrie même sur la terre etrangère.</q></p> + +<p>Preferring the title of "Premier Grenadier de +France" to higher honours, La Tour d'Auvergne +remained as a private soldier to his death; but in +a decree of Buonaparte, then First Consul, preserved +in the Musée des Archives, he orders that +La Tour d'Auvergne's name should still be kept on +<pb n="299"/><anchor id="Pg299"/> +the muster-roll of his old regiment; and, when called, +the corporal should answer, "Mort au champ +d'honneur!"</p> + +<p>The moderation and absence of ambition in the +character of La Tour d'Auvergne is expressed in a +letter to Le Coq, Bishop of Ille-et-Vilaine. He +writes,—"Je me prosterne bien plus volontiers devant +la Providence pour le remercier que pour rien +demander; du pain, du lait, la liberté; et une cœur +qui ne puisse jamais s'ouvrir à l'ambition, voilà +l'objet de tous mes désirs."</p> + +<p>La Tour d'Auvergne had a learned dog, which +he educated as a soldier; he went through the +whole drill, and his master made him always wear +boots. He marched in them, on one occasion, the +whole distance from Paris to Guingamp.</p> + +<p>A horse fair and market were going on at Carhaix. +Some of the women wore curious flannel +hoods, edged with colours. There were baskets of +burnt limpet shells and lime, used in washing as +substitutes for soap. In the porch of the church +dedicated to St. Tremeur (son of the Bluebeard +Comorre) are some of the little skull-boxes so +common in the north of Brittany. One was labelled, +"Ci gît le chef de Mr. Thomas François Nonet, +ancien notaire et maire de la ville de Carhaix le 28 +J^ier 1776, décédée le 8 7^bre 1842." The curfew bell +rings at Carhaix at a quarter to ten.</p> +<pb n="300"/><anchor id="Pg300"/> + +<p>We left next day for Huelgoat, fifteen miles distant, +the road up and down, wild and dreary. At +Pont Pierre, about nine miles from Carhaix, we +crossed the Aulne, even here a considerable river, +with a beautiful thick forest on our right. At a +place called La Grande Halte, we turned off the +road to the right for Huelgoat, about a mile and a +half off. It is prettily situated on a large pond or +lake, nearly a mile and a half in circumference, and +of great depth (20 feet). It was market day; the +men wore brown serge coats, close white breeches +and black gaiters, with straw hats bound with black. +The countrymen from Saint Herbot were there in +their black shaggy goat or sheepskin overcoats, the +hair turned outwards (there are flocks of black sheep +throughout Finistère), without sleeves, and the white +breeches, black gaiters, and straw hats. The women +of Huelgoat wear large white turnover collars and +caps with long ends turned up.</p> + +<p>We first walked to the rocking stone on the slope +of a steep hill, considered the third largest in Brittany; +the block forming a kind of double cube, +that is, about twice the length of its height. It +requires a very slight impulse to make it rock. This +"fairy stone" is often consulted by the peasants. In +the ravine close by, below the path, is what is called +the "Cuisine de Madame Marie," but termed in the +guide-books the "Ménage de la Vierge;" a recess +<pb n="301"/><anchor id="Pg301"/> +formed of large masses of fantastically shaped granite +rocks, through which a small stream of water flows, +arriving thither from the pond, by a subterranean +course. One stone, hollowed out, is called the +écuelle of the Virgin, and others have each the +name of some different utensil requisite for the +"Ménage" of our Lady. The young people managed +to scramble to the bottom.</p> + +<p>Huelgoat (Breton, "high wood") is celebrated for +its lead-mines, which are now no longer worked. A +well-kept path, cut on the top of the ridge, leads to +the mines, about two miles and a half distant, along +a neat little canal, three feet wide, issuing from the +great pond, and supplying the hydraulic machine +used to pump the water out of the mine. The +deeply wooded valley, along the ridge of which it +runs, is traversed by a rushing stream, which runs +over rocks; and at a place called Le Gouffre, the +rounded granite masses are piled in the wildest confusion, +like those of the Ménage de la Vierge, forming +a large dark cavern, at the bottom of which the +imprisoned river foams and roars, and has forced +itself an escape through a gorge at some distance +from the place, where it is lost to view. A young +girl is said, about a century back, to have fallen +down this gulf. Attempting to gather some of the +mosses that line the sides of the rocks, she slipped in +and perished in the sight of her intended. Her body +<pb n="302"/><anchor id="Pg302"/> +never reappeared, but our guide assured us that her +ghost was seen four years since, and that sighs and +groans are to be heard at eve issuing from the fatal +chasm.</p> + +<p>The pretty little ivy-leaved campanula was growing +here in abundance. We visited in succession +the "robber's cave," the "Pierre cintré" (a natural +archway), and other wonders, and returned much +pleased with the infinite variety of fantastic rocks, +rushing waters, and hanging woods, which form this +charming scene.</p> + +<p>The lead-mines of Huelgoat have been worked +since the fifteenth century for the silver which the +lead-ore (galena) contains.</p> + +<p>The right of working these mines and those of +Poullaouen was given by Louis XIII. to Jean du +Châtelet, Baron of Beausoleil, and his wife. He +was at that time General of the Mines in Hungary, +and inspector of the French mines. They were +accompanied by German miners, but their mysterious +researches caused them to be accused of sorcery +and magic. Richelieu had them imprisoned in the +Bastille, where they both died, victims of the fanaticism +of the age, and the works were abandoned till +the eighteenth century. They are now no longer in +operation, but it is said are about to be re-opened.</p> + +<p>Retracing our steps to La Grande Halte, on the +Carhaix road, we turned off to the left to see the cascade +<pb n="303"/><anchor id="Pg303"/> +of St. Herbot. We left our carriage, and +walked up a hill covered with underwood, opposite +the fall. The cascade is formed by the little river +Elez falling through a mountain gorge about 650 +feet <del>in</del> in length, filled with granite rocks of every +shape and size, the sides overhung with woods of +oak. The height of the fall is 230 feet.</p> + +<p>There was no water in the cascade. At the best, +it must be only a succession of small falls. The +river tumbles from rock to rock, forming on some +of the ledges pools of water, filled with small trout, +some of which were caught by our party.</p> + +<p>According to the legend, a giant of the country, +wishing to clear the fields of his friend, a Druid, +from the rocks that encumbered them, rolled them +down the torrent.</p> + +<p>We descended the hill to the road where we had +left our carriage, and went to the chapel of St. +Herbot, a building of the sixteenth century, on the +side of a rushing brook. It has a high square tower +opening into the church, and a rood-screen of wood +beautifully carved in the style of the Renaissance, +which forms three sides round the altar. Two angels +are represented with cups, the "sainte graal" receiving +the blood of Christ. The entrance to the +church is up a flight of steps. It has a beautifully +sculptured south porch, with statues of the Apostles, +and some fine painted-glass windows. One part of +<pb n="304"/><anchor id="Pg304"/> +the church has the windows with iron bars, as if for +defence.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image63.jpg"> + <head>63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>Near the altar is the tomb of the anchorite, St. +Herbot; his effigy reposes under a Gothic canopy, +upon a granite sarcophagus, represented in his hermit's +gown, the hood thrown back, flowing hair, long +beard, his breviary suspended to his girdle, and his +pilgrim's staff by his left arm. His feet repose on a +recumbent lion. St. Herbot is the great patron of +cattle; the three days of the fair and pardon all the +bullocks rest; and when an animal is ill, an offering +of his hair is made to the saint. We saw a heap of +horsehair and cows' tails lying on one of the altars. +<pb n="305"/><anchor id="Pg305"/> +<pb n="306"/><anchor id="Pg306"/> +<pb n="307"/><anchor id="Pg307"/> +These are annually sold for the profit of the +church, and the proceeds amount to a considerable +sum. Our guide gravely assured us that on the +first of May, day of the Pardon of St. Herbot, the +cows "d'elles mêmes" walk three times round the +church.</p> + +<pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p>[Illustration: 64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]</p></then> + <else> + <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image64.jpg"> + <head>64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.</head> + <figDesc></figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else> +</pgIf> + +<p>We returned late to Carhaix, and left next day +for Guingamp, passing, about two miles out of the +town, through the village of St. Catherine on the +Hierre, where the church has fleur-de-lisé windows, +like that of Penmarch. We here entered the department +of the Côtes-du-Nord through Callac, where we +changed horses; the country was hilly and wooded. +On the left we saw the spire of the church of Notre +Dame-de-Grâces, where repose the remains of Charles +of Blois; on the right appeared the cathedral towers +of Guingamp. At this last place we took the rail +to Caulnes-Dinan, and on, by diligence, to Dinan, +whence we proposed returning by St. Malo; but, +finding the time of the boat's sailing did not suit +our arrangements, we returned by Paris and Dieppe +to London.</p> +<pb n="308"/><anchor id="Pg308"/> +</div> +<div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb n="309"/><anchor id="Pg309"/> +<index index="toc" /> +<index index="pdf" /> +<head rend="hsmallcaps">Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany.</head> +<lg rend="indent"> +<l>1320. Du Guesclin born.</l> +<l>1338. Marriage of Charles of Blois and Jeanne de Penthièvre. Du Guesclin at the tournament.</l> +<l>1341. Death of John III. Beginning of the War of Succession.</l> +<l>1342. John de Montfort, prisoner in the Louvre, 1345. Escape to England and death.</l> +<l>1346. Siege of Hennebont defended by Jeanne de Flandre.</l> +<l>1347. Charles of Blois taken prisoner at La Roche Derrien.</l> +<l> " War of the two Jeannes.</l> +<l>1351. Combat of the Thirty.</l> +<l>1356. Charles of Blois liberated.</l> +<l>1359. Siege of Dinan.</l> +<l>1364. Battle of Auray.</l> +<l>1365. Treaty of Guérande.</l> +<l>1370. Du Guesclin, Constable of France.</l> +<l>1375. John IV. flees to England.</l> +<l>1380. He is recalled.</l> +<l>1387. Death of Du Guesclin.</l> +<l>1387. Clisson marries his daughter to Jean de Penthièvre.</l> +<l>1407. Death of Clisson.</l> +<l>1420. Seizure of John V. by the Penthièvres.</l> +<l>1488. Battle of St. Aubin du Cormier.</l> +</lg> +</div> +<div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb n="310"/><anchor id="Pg310"/> +<index index="toc" /> +<index index="pdf" /> + <head rend="hsmallcaps">Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany.</head> + + <p> + <figure rend="w100" url="images/table.png"> + <figDesc></figDesc></figure> + </p> + <pgIf output="txt"> + <then> + <eg> +1. GEOFFROY II. CONSTANCE +3rd son of Henry II.,--------=--------Heiress of Britanny + 1175 | + Arthur, + 1196. + +CONSTANCE,------------=-----------2. GUY DE THOUARS +Heiress of | +Brittany. Alix, + 1213------=-----Pierre de Dreux. + | + John II., 1286. + Beatrix, daughter of Henry III. + | + | +1. Maria,-------------=------Arthur II., 1305----------------------------------=-----2. Jeanne de Montfort. +Vicountess | | +de Limoges | | + | +--------------+--------+ + +-----------+----------+ | | + | | Jean Comte de Montfort + 1345. Beatrix. +Jean III. (Bon), 1313. Gui Comte de Penthièvre.........Jeanne de Flandre........Gui de Laval. +Isabelle de Valois. | | | + | | Beatrix de Laval + Jeanne la Boiteuse. Jean IV. (Vaillant), 1366. | + Charles de Blois + 1364 ....... 1. Mary of England. Richard de Bretagne. + | 2. Joan Holland.........Marguerite d'Orleans. + +----------------------+--------------+ 3. Joan of Navarre. | + | | | | | +Jean Comte de Penthièvre. Gui. Henri. | | +Marguerite de Clisson. Died in captivity. | | + | +-------------+-----+ Francis II., 1458 + +------+-------+ | | + | | | John V., 1439 Arthur III., 1457...1. Marguerite de Bretagne. +Olivier Charles Guillaume ................ Jeanne de France Constable. 2. Marguerite de Foix. + | | + +----------------------+------------------+--------+ | +Francis I., 1442. Pierre II., Maria. Gilles. Anne, 1488. +1. Yolande d'Anjou. 1450. Francoise de Dinan.......1. Charles VIII. +2. Isabeau d'Ecosse. Francoise d'Amboise. 2. Louis XIII. + | + +----+----+ + Claude. Renée. +</eg> +</then> +</pgIf> +</div> +<div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb n="311"/><anchor id="Pg311"/> +<index index="toc" /> +<index index="pdf" /> +<head rend="hsmallcaps">Index.</head> +<pb n="312"/><anchor id="Pg312"/> +<lg><lg> +<l>Abelard, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>.</l> +<l>Ancenis, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l> +<l>Angoulême, Duke and Duchess, <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>.</l> +<l>Anne, of Austria, Queen, <ref target="Pg122">122</ref>, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</l> +<l>Anne de Beaujeu, Regent, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l> +<l>Anne of Brittany, Queen-Duchess, <ref target="Pg042">42</ref>, <ref target="Pg050">50</ref>, <ref target="Pg062">62</ref>, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>, <ref target="Pg222">222</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l> +<l>Arré, mountains, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>, <ref target="Pg136">136</ref>, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l> +<l>Arthur and Geoffroy Plantagenet, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l> +<l>Arthur III., Duke of Brittany, Constable of France, <ref target="Pg190">190</ref>.</l> +<l>Artois, Comte d', <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</l> +<l>Auray, <ref target="Pg157">157</ref>.</l> +<l>Auray, battle of, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>.</l> +<l>Auray, Ste. Anne d', <ref target="Pg158">158</ref>.</l> +<l>Avranches, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>.</l> +<l>Audierne, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Baciocchi, Princess, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l> +<l>Baie des Trépassés, <ref target="Pg274">274</ref>.</l> +<l>Barbès, <ref target="Pg028">28</ref>.</l> +<l>Barkers (aboyeurs), <ref target="Pg214">214</ref>.</l> +<l>Bas-Foins, <ref target="Pg049">49</ref>.</l> +<l>Beaumanoir Chapel, <ref target="Pg056">56</ref>.</l> +<l>Beaumanoir, Jean de, <ref target="Pg052">52</ref>, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref>.</l> +<l>Beauport, Abbey of, <ref target="Pg076">76</ref>.</l> +<l>Belle-Isle-en-Mer, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l> +<l>Bellière, Château of, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref>.</l> +<l>Berri, Duchess, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>.</l> +<l>Bertheaume, Island, <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>.</l> +<l>Bigouden, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref>.</l> +<l>Biniou, <ref target="Pg249">249</ref>.</l> +<l>Bisson, <ref target="Pg155">155</ref>, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>.</l> +<l>Blanche of Castille, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>.</l> +<l>Blue Beard, Breton, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>.</l> +<l>Boisgelin, Château, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>.</l> +<l>Bonchamps, <ref target="Pg237">237</ref>.</l> +<l>Bourg-de-Batz, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l> +<pb n="313"/><anchor id="Pg313"/> +<l>Brest, <ref target="Pg118">118</ref>.</l> +<l>Bretesch, Château of, <ref target="Pg248">248</ref>.</l> +<l>Breton bed, <ref target="Pg239">239</ref>;</l> +<l>— butter, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>;</l> +<l>— character, <ref target="Pg099">99</ref>;</l> +<l>— chestnuts, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>;</l> +<l>— cow and pig, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>;</l> +<l>— distaffs, <ref target="Pg259">259</ref>;</l> +<l>— farmhouse, <ref target="Pg086">86</ref>;</l> +<l>— knitting, <ref target="Pg074">74</ref>;</l> +<l>— soup, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>;</l> +<l>— threshing, <ref target="Pg117">117</ref>;</l> +<l>— vehicles, <ref target="Pg037">37</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Cancale, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>.</l> +<l>Carnac, <ref target="Pg177">177</ref>.</l> +<l>Cesson, Tour de, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>.</l> +<l>Carhaix, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l> +<l>Chalais, Comte de, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>.</l> +<l>Champ des Martyrs, <ref target="Pg166">166</ref>.</l> +<l>Champtoceaux, Château de, <ref target="Pg218">218</ref>.</l> +<l>Chandos, Sir John, <ref target="Pg016">16</ref>, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>, <ref target="Pg162">162</ref>.</l> +<l>Châteaubriand, <ref target="Pg036">36</ref>, <ref target="Pg041">41</ref>.</l> +<l>Châteaulin, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>.</l> +<l>Chatelet, J. du, <ref target="Pg302">302</ref>.</l> +<l>Chêne-Ferron, Château of, <ref target="Pg057">57</ref>.</l> +<l>Cherbourg, <ref target="Pg001">1</ref>.</l> +<l>Charles the Bad, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>.</l> +<l>Charles of Blois, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>.</l> +<l>Charles V., <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l> +<l>Charles VI., <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>.</l> +<l>Charles VII., <ref target="Pg047">47</ref>, <ref target="Pg191">191</ref>.</l> +<l>Charles VIII., <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l> +<l>Clisson, Constable, <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>, <ref target="Pg186">186</ref>, <ref target="Pg209">209</ref>.</l> +<l>Clisson, Marguerite, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>, <ref target="Pg218">218</ref>.</l> +<l>Colomb, Michel, <ref target="Pg127">127</ref>, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>.</l> +<l>Combat des Trente, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref>.</l> +<l>Combourg, Château de, <ref target="Pg036">36</ref>.</l> +<l>Comorre, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l> +<l>Concarneau, <ref target="Pg142">142</ref>.</l> +<l>Conquet, Le, <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>.</l> +<l>Constance of Brittany, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l> +<l>Cornouaille, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>.</l> +<l>Costume, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>, <ref target="Pg140">140</ref>, <ref target="Pg234">234</ref>, <ref target="Pg249">249</ref>, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref>, <ref target="Pg283">283</ref>, <ref target="Pg288">288</ref>, <ref target="Pg298">298</ref>.</l> +<l>Couëron, <ref target="Pg034">34</ref>.</l> +<pb n="314"/><anchor id="Pg314"/> +<l>Couësnon, <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</l> +<l>Courcorro, <ref target="Pg181">181</ref>.</l> +<l>Coutances, <ref target="Pg019">19</ref>.</l> +<l>Crêpes, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>, <ref target="Pg169">169</ref>.</l> +<l>Croisic, Le, <ref target="Pg232">232</ref>.</l> +<l>Crosses, <ref target="Pg104">104</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>D'Andelot, Sieur, <ref target="Pg248">248</ref>.</l> +<l>Dinan, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>, <ref target="Pg050">50</ref>.</l> +<l>Dinan, Françoise de, <hi rend="italic">see</hi> Françoise.</l> +<l>Dinan, Roland de, <ref target="Pg053">53</ref>.</l> +<l>Dinard, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>.</l> +<l>Dogs of St. Malo, <ref target="Pg042">42</ref>.</l> +<l>Dol, <ref target="Pg030">30</ref>.</l> +<l>Douarnenez, <ref target="Pg276">276</ref>, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>.</l> +<l>Dubourg, <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</l> +<l>Du Guesclin, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>, <ref target="Pg045">45</ref>, <ref target="Pg051">51</ref>, <ref target="Pg053">53</ref>, <ref target="Pg074">74</ref>, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>, <ref target="Pg162">162</ref>, <ref target="Pg209">209</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Elven, Château of, <ref target="Pg199">199</ref>.</l> +<l>Edward III., <ref target="Pg015">15</ref>, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l> +<l>Edward IV., <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l> +<l>Escoublac, <ref target="Pg232">232</ref>.</l> +<l>Estouteville, Sieur d', <ref target="Pg013">13</ref>, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>.</l> +<l>Epinglettes, <ref target="Pg160">160</ref>.</l> +<l>Ermine, Order of, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Filet, saint, <ref target="Pg264">264</ref>.</l> +<l>Faouët, Le, <ref target="Pg287">287</ref>.</l> +<l>Folgoët, Le, <ref target="Pg120">120</ref>.</l> +<l>Fouquet, N., <ref target="Pg256">256</ref>.</l> +<l>Francis I., Duke of Brittany, <ref target="Pg047">47</ref>, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref> <hi rend="italic">note</hi>, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>.</l> +<l>Francis II., Duke of Brittany, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l> +<l>Françoise de Dinan, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>, <ref target="Pg215">215</ref>.</l> +<l>Fontenelle le Ligueur, <ref target="Pg267">267</ref>.</l> +<l>Frérie Blanche, <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</l> +<l>Frobisher, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg174">174</ref>.</l> +<l>Gesril du Papeu, <ref target="Pg166">166</ref>, <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>.</l> +<l>Gilles de Bretagne, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>.</l> +<l>Goëmon (wrack), <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>.</l> +<l>Grallo, King, <ref target="Pg139">139</ref>, <ref target="Pg275">275</ref>.</l> +<l>Guérande, <ref target="Pg245">245</ref>.</l> +<l>Guimiliau, <ref target="Pg115">115</ref>.</l> +<l>Granville, <ref target="Pg021">21</ref>.</l> +<l>Guingamp, <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</l> +<pb n="315"/><anchor id="Pg315"/> +</lg><lg> +<l>Hædic, Isle, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>.</l> +<l>Haye du Puits, La, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>.</l> +<l>Harcourt, G. d', <ref target="Pg015">15</ref>.</l> +<l>Hennebont, <ref target="Pg156">156</ref>.</l> +<l>Henry II., <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>.</l> +<l>Henry IV., <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>, <ref target="Pg191">191</ref>.</l> +<l>Henry V., <ref target="Pg013">13</ref>, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>, <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l> +<l>Henry VI., <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l> +<l>Henry VII., <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l> +<l>Henry VIII., <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>.</l> +<l>Henri IV., <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>, <ref target="Pg225">225</ref>.</l> +<l>Hercé, <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>.</l> +<l>Hoche, Gen., <ref target="Pg166">166</ref>.</l> +<l>Hunaudaye, Château de la, <ref target="Pg062">62</ref>.</l> +<l>Huelgoat, <ref target="Pg300">300</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Indian corn, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>.</l> +<l>Inclined axis of church, <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>.</l> +<l>Is, City of, <ref target="Pg274">274</ref>.</l> +<l>Ingrandes, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>James II., <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>, <ref target="Pg205">205</ref>.</l> +<l>Jean de Montfort, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>.</l> +<l>Jeanne d'Arc, <ref target="Pg190">190</ref>.</l> +<l>Jeanne de Flandre (Montfort), <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>, <ref target="Pg156">156</ref>.</l> +<l>Jeanne de France, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>, <ref target="Pg219">219</ref>.</l> +<l>Jeanne de Penthièvre, <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>.</l> +<l>Jeanne (Joan) of Navarre, <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>, <ref target="Pg246">246</ref>.</l> +<l>John I. (Roux), <ref target="Pg189">189</ref>, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>.</l> +<l>John II., <ref target="Pg204">204</ref>.</l> +<l>John III. (Bon), <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg160">160</ref>, <ref target="Pg205">205</ref>.</l> +<l>John IV. (Victorieux), <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref>, <ref target="Pg160">160</ref>, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>, <ref target="Pg246">246</ref>.</l> +<l>John V., <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>.</l> +<l>Josselin, Château, <ref target="Pg211">211</ref>.</l> +<l>Jugon, <ref target="Pg061">61</ref>, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Kergrist, Château, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>.</l> +<l>Kermartin, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>.</l> +<l>Kermario, <ref target="Pg177">177</ref>.</l> +<l>Kersanton stone, <ref target="Pg122">122</ref>, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>.</l> +<l>Kerserho, <ref target="Pg181">181</ref>.</l> +<l>Kerscaven, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</l> +<l>Knights Templars, <ref target="Pg069">69</ref>.</l> +<l>Knollys, Sir R., <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>.</l> +<l>Korn-er-Hoët, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l> +<pb n="316"/><anchor id="Pg316"/> +<l>La Forêt, Bay, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>.</l> +<l>La Garaye, Château of, <ref target="Pg057">57</ref>.</l> +<l>Lamballe, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>.</l> +<l>Lanleff, <ref target="Pg068">68</ref>.</l> +<l>Langoat, <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>.</l> +<l>Langoustes, <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>, <ref target="Pg147">147</ref>.</l> +<l>Lannion, <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>.</l> +<l>Lanvaux, Lande de, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l> +<l>Larochejaquelin, <ref target="Pg022">22</ref>.</l> +<l>La Tour d'Auvergne, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l> +<l>Lehon Abbey, <ref target="Pg056">56</ref>.</l> +<l>Lavandières de la Nuit, <ref target="Pg290">290</ref>.</l> +<l>Lesage, <ref target="Pg188">188</ref>.</l> +<l>Léonnais, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>.</l> +<l>Léon, Viscounts, <ref target="Pg110">110</ref>.</l> +<l>Lézardrieux, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>.</l> +<l>Lessay, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>.</l> +<l>Locmariaker, <ref target="Pg170">170</ref>.</l> +<l>Loctudy, <ref target="Pg261">261</ref>.</l> +<l>Lorient, <ref target="Pg155">155</ref>.</l> +<l>Louis XI., <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>, <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l> +<l>Louis XII., <ref target="Pg032">32</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l> +<l>Louis XIV., <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>, <ref target="Pg189">189</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Manny, Sir W., <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>, <ref target="Pg157">157</ref>.</l> +<l>Manoir, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</l> +<l>Martinvast, <ref target="Pg012">12</ref>.</l> +<l>Matilda, Empress, <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>.</l> +<l>Mary, daughter of Edward III., <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>.</l> +<l>Mercœur, Duke de, <ref target="Pg225">225</ref>.</l> +<l>Menhir, <ref target="Pg035">35</ref>.</l> +<l>Mingant Rock, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>.</l> +<l>Minihy (sanctuaries), <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>.</l> +<l>Mivoie, Chêne de, <ref target="Pg207">207</ref>.</l> +<l>Montafilant, Château, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>.</l> +<l>Montfort, <ref target="Pg215">215</ref>.</l> +<l>Mont St. Michel, <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>.</l> +<l>Motto of Dukes of Brittany, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref>, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>.</l> +<l>Morbihan Sea, <ref target="Pg174">174</ref>.</l> +<l>Morlaix, <ref target="Pg097">97</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Nacqueville, Château, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref>.</l> +<l>Nantes, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>.</l> +<l>Napoleon I., <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>, <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>.</l> +<l>Notre Dame-de-Comfort, church, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>.</l> +<l>Notre Dame-du-Roncier, <ref target="Pg213">213</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Octeville, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>.</l> +<l>Ouëssant Isle, <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<pb n="317"/><anchor id="Pg317"/> +<l>Paimbœuf, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l> +<l>Paimpol, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>.</l> +<l>Palais, Le, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>.</l> +<l>Penmarch, <ref target="Pg263">263</ref>.</l> +<l>Penmarch, Torche de, <ref target="Pg262">262</ref>.</l> +<l>Penthièvre, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>, <ref target="Pg210">210</ref>, <ref target="Pg225">225</ref>.</l> +<l>Périers, <ref target="Pg018">18</ref>.</l> +<l>Perros Guirec, <ref target="Pg092">92</ref>.</l> +<l>Peter, Duke, <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</l> +<l>Philip Augustus, <ref target="Pg028">28</ref>.</l> +<l>Pierre de Dreux, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l> +<l>Pierres de Croix, <ref target="Pg286">286</ref>.</l> +<l>Pleudaniel, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</l> +<l>Ploërmel, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>.</l> +<l>Plouaret, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>.</l> +<l>Plougastel, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>.</l> +<l>Plouharnel, <ref target="Pg180">180</ref>.</l> +<l>Ploumanach, <ref target="Pg092">92</ref>.</l> +<l>Pointe du Raz, <ref target="Pg271">271</ref>.</l> +<l>Pole, W. de la, Earl of Suffolk, <ref target="Pg013">13</ref>.</l> +<l>Pontacallec, Marquis de, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>, <ref target="Pg294">294</ref>.</l> +<l>Pontaven, <ref target="Pg150">150</ref>.</l> +<l>Pontcroix, <ref target="Pg276">276</ref>.</l> +<l>Pont l'Abbé, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>.</l> +<l>Pontorson, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>.</l> +<l>Port Navalo, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l> +<l>Potatoes, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>.</l> +<l>Poulignan, <ref target="Pg233">233</ref>.</l> +<l>Porzmoguer, <ref target="Pg130">130</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Querqueville, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>.</l> +<l>Quiberon, <ref target="Pg165">165</ref>.</l> +<l>Quimper, <ref target="Pg138">138</ref>.</l> +<l>Quimperlé, <ref target="Pg151">151</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Rance River, <ref target="Pg043">43</ref>.</l> +<l>Richelieu, Cardinal, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>.</l> +<l>Richelieu, Duke, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>.</l> +<l>Rennes, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l> +<l>Retz, Cardinal, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>.</l> +<l>Rieux, Marshal, <ref target="Pg202">202</ref>.</l> +<l>River scenery, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l> +<l>Roads, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>.</l> +<l>Roche Bernard, La, <ref target="Pg247">247</ref>.</l> +<l>Roche Derrien, La, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>.</l> +<l>Roche Jagu, La, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</l> +<l>Rochefort, Chancellor, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l> +<l>Rocking stones, <ref target="Pg093">93</ref>, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>, <ref target="Pg300">300</ref>.</l> +<l>Rohan family, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>, <ref target="Pg099">99</ref>, <ref target="Pg111">111</ref>, <ref target="Pg210">210</ref>.</l> +<l>Rosaries, <ref target="Pg282">282</ref>.</l> +<pb n="318"/><anchor id="Pg318"/> +<l>Roscoff, <ref target="Pg111">111</ref>.</l> +<l>Rosgrand, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>.</l> +<l>Rosporden, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</l> +<l>Rustéphan, Château, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Sacring bells, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>.</l> +<l>Saire, Monk of, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>.</l> +<l>Ste. Anne la Palue, <ref target="Pg282">282</ref>.</l> +<l>St. Armal, <ref target="Pg204">204</ref>.</l> +<l>— Aubin du Cormier, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l> +<l>Ste. Barbe, <ref target="Pg287">287</ref>.</l> +<l>St. Brieuc, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>.</l> +<l>— Corentin, <ref target="Pg137">137</ref>.</l> +<l>— Cornély, <ref target="Pg178">178</ref>.</l> +<l>— Fiacre, <ref target="Pg020">20</ref>.</l> +<l>— " church, <ref target="Pg293">293</ref>.</l> +<l>— Florent, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l> +<l>— Génévroc, <ref target="Pg105">105</ref>.</l> +<l>— Germain, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>, <ref target="Pg034">34</ref>.</l> +<l>— Gildas, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>.</l> +<l>— Guenolé, <ref target="Pg263">263</ref>.</l> +<l>— Herbot, <ref target="Pg303">303</ref>.</l> +<l>— Ives, <ref target="Pg085">85</ref>, <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>.</l> +<l>— Léonard, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>.</l> +<l>— Malo, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>.</l> +<l>— Mathieu, <ref target="Pg129">129</ref>.</l> +<l>— Michael, Order of, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>.</l> +<l>— Nazaire, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>.</l> +<l>— Pair, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>.</l> +<l>— Pol de Léon, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>.</l> +<l>— Samson, <ref target="Pg032">32</ref>.</l> +<l>— Thégonnec, <ref target="Pg114">114</ref>, <ref target="Pg117">117</ref>.</l> +<l>— Urlose, <ref target="Pg152">152</ref>.</l> +<l>— Vincente Ferrar, <ref target="Pg184">184</ref>.</l> +<l>Salt, <ref target="Pg233">233</ref>.</l> +<l>Sardine fishery, <ref target="Pg144">144</ref>.</l> +<l>Sarzeau, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>.</l> +<l>Scaër, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</l> +<l>Scales, Lord, <ref target="Pg021">21</ref>.</l> +<l>Sein, Isle, <ref target="Pg272">272</ref>.</l> +<pb n="319"/><anchor id="Pg319"/> +<l>Sevigné, Madame de, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>.</l> +<l>Skull-boxes, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>.</l> +<l>Sœurs de la Miséricorde, <ref target="Pg016">16</ref>.</l> +<l>Sœurs de le Providence, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>.</l> +<l>Sombreuil, Comte de, <ref target="Pg164">164</ref>, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>, <ref target="Pg184">184</ref>.</l> +<l>Stuart, Charles, <ref target="Pg113">113</ref>, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>.</l> +<l>Stuart, Mary, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>.</l> +<l>Sucinio, Château, <ref target="Pg189">189</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Teigneuse, Isle, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l> +<l>Thomas à Becket, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>.</l> +<l>Tocqueville, A. de, <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>.</l> +<l>Tombeleine, Isle, <ref target="Pg028">28</ref>.</l> +<l>Touquédec, Château, <ref target="Pg095">95</ref>.</l> +<l>Tourlaville, Château, <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>.</l> +<l>Tréguier, <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>.</l> +<l>Trégunc, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>.</l> +<l>Trieux River, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>.</l> +<l>Trinité, La, <ref target="Pg130">130</ref>.</l> +<l>Tumiac, Butte de, <ref target="Pg199">199</ref>.</l> +<l>Typhaine, the Lady, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Valognes, <ref target="Pg014">14</ref>.</l> +<l>Vannes, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>.</l> +<l>Varades, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l> +<l>Vendean army, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l> +<l>Veneti, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>.</l> +<l>Venus' ear, <ref target="Pg002">2</ref>.</l> +<l>Victoria, Queen, <ref target="Pg001">1</ref>, <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>, <ref target="Pg014">14</ref>.</l> +</lg><lg> +<l>Walsh, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>.</l> +<l>War of the two Jeannes, <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>.</l> +<l>War of Succession, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref> <hi rend="italic">note</hi>.</l> +<l>Washing, <ref target="Pg018">18</ref>.</l> +<l>Wells, holy, <ref target="Pg125">125</ref>, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</l> +<l>Welsh Baptists, <ref target="Pg100">100</ref>.</l> +<l>William the Conqueror, <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>.</l> +</lg></lg> +</div> +<pb n="320"/><anchor id="Pg320"/> + + + </body> + + <back> + +<div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<index index="toc" /> +<index index="pdf" /> +<head>Transcribers' Notes</head> +<p>The following substitutions were applied to the text by +Project Gutenberg proofers and transcribers—</p> +<lg><l>On page <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>: "recals" —> "recalls"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>: "John IV Duke of Britanny" —> "Brittany"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg093">93</ref>: "slighest" —> "slightest"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg104">104</ref>: "calvarys" —> "calvaries"</l> +<l>In Ill. 22: "Creisker" —> "Creizker"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg144">144</ref>: "mackarel" —> "mackerel"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>: "out out" —> "out"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>: twice "d'Angoulme" —> "d'Angoulême"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg178">178</ref>: "Erdevan" —> "Erdeven"</l> +<l>On pages <ref target="Pg196">196</ref>/<ref target="Pg197">197</ref>: several extra double quotes removed</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg212">212</ref>: "ballustrades" —> "balustrades"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg270">270</ref>: "promonotory" —> "promontory"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg272">272</ref>: "corronation" —> "coronation"</l> +<l>On page <ref target="Pg303">303</ref>: "in in" —> "in"</l></lg> +</div> + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <divGen type="pgfooter" /> + </div> + + </back> +</text> +</TEI.2> diff --git a/22700-tei/images/image00.jpg b/22700-tei/images/image00.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b350883 --- /dev/null +++ b/22700-tei/images/image00.jpg diff --git a/22700-tei/images/image01.jpg b/22700-tei/images/image01.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aefda24 --- /dev/null +++ b/22700-tei/images/image01.jpg diff --git a/22700-tei/images/image02.jpg b/22700-tei/images/image02.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3915807 --- /dev/null +++ b/22700-tei/images/image02.jpg diff --git a/22700-tei/images/image02.png b/22700-tei/images/image02.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0cf5dfc --- /dev/null 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