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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Brittany & Its Byways by Fanny Bury
+Palliser
+
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no
+restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under
+the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or
+online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+
+Title: Brittany & Its Byways
+
+Author: Fanny Bury Palliser
+
+Release Date: November 9, 2007 [Ebook #22700]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS***
+
+
+
+
+
+Brittany & Its Byways
+
+
+by Fanny Bury Palliser
+
+
+
+
+Edition 02 , (November 9, 2007)
+
+
+
+
+
+                          BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS
+
+                             SOME ACCOUNT OF
+                  ITS INHABITANTS AND ITS ANTIQUITIES;
+                   DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY.
+
+                          BY MRS. BURY PALLISER
+
+[Illustration: Vignette: St. Michael’s Mount]
+
+                       WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                            ------------------
+
+                                  London
+
+                                   1869
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+Contents.
+List of Illustrations.
+Britanny and Its Byways.
+Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany.
+Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany.
+Index.
+Transcribers’ Notes
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                              --------------
+
+CHERBOURG—Mont du Roule—Visit of Queen Victoria—Harbour,
+1—Breakwater—Dock-Yard, 2—Chantereyne—Hôpital de la Marine,
+3—Castle—Statue of Napoleon I.—Library—Church of La Trinité,
+4—Environs—Octeville, 5—Lace-school of the Sœurs de la Providence, 11.
+
+QUERQUEVILLE—Church of St. Germain, 5—Château of the Comte de Tocqueville,
+6.
+
+TOURLAVILLE—Château, 7—Crêpes, 11.
+
+MARTINVAST—Château, 12.
+
+BRICQUEBEC—Castle—History, 12—Valognes, 14.
+
+ST. SAUVEUR-le-Vicomte—Demesne—History, 15—Castle—Convent—Abbey, 16.
+
+PÉRIERS, 17—La Haye-du-Puits, 17—Abbey of Lessay—Mode of
+Washing—Inn-signs, 18—Church, 19.
+
+COUTANCES—Cathedral—Churches, 19—Fête of St. Fiacre, 20.
+
+GRANVILLE—Situation—History—Church, 21—View from the
+"Roc"—Bathing-machines—Defeat of the Vendean army—Death of La
+Rochejacquelin, 22—Costume of the Women—Environs—St. Pair, 23.
+
+AVRANCHES—Extensive View—Scene of Absolution of Henry II.—Cemetery, 24.
+
+PONTORSON—Story of the Lady Typhaine, 24—Government by Du Guesclin—Mont
+St. Michel, 25—Chapel of St. Aubert—Visits of English kings—Pilgrimages of
+Kings of France, 26—Convent of "La Merveille," 27—Isle of La
+Tombeleine—Prison, 28—The Iron Cage, 29.
+
+DOL-DE-BRETAGNE—Street Architecture, 30—Cathedral, 31—Tomb of Bishop
+James—Chapel of St. Samson, 32—Monks, 33—Dyke, 34—Menhir, 35—Château of
+Combourg, 36—Chateaubriand, 37.
+
+CANCALE—Oysters, 37—Wretched public vehicles, 38—Bay, 39.
+
+ST. MALO—Situation, 39—Sea-wall, 40—Tomb of Chateaubriand—Memorials of
+him, 41—Watch-dogs, 42—Castle—History, 43—DINARD, 44.
+
+DINAN—Ascent of the Rance—Statue of Du Guesclin, 44—Siege of 1359—Duel of
+Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorbéry, 45—Castle of Montfilant—Story of
+Gilles de Bretagne, 46—Lunatic Asylum—Castle of Dinan, 50—Church of St.
+Sauveur, 51—Museum, 52—Environs—Château of La Bellière, 54—Château of La
+Garaye—Count Claude de la Garaye and his Wife, 57—Jugon, 61—Castle of La
+Hunaudaye, 62—Legend of La Hunaudaye, 63—Forest of La Hunaudaye—The Chouan
+War, 66.
+
+LAMBALLE—Jeanne la Boiteuse—War of Succession, 67—Temple of Lanleff,
+68—Tradition of the blood-spots, 70.
+
+ST. BRIEUC—Palais de Justice—Tour de Cesson, 71—Church of Notre
+Dame—Review of his army by James II. of England, 72.
+
+GUINGAMP—Situation—Fishing in the Trieux—Sanctuary of Notre Dame du Bon
+Secours—"Frérie blanche," 72—Fountain of Duke Peter—Women of
+Guingamp—Knitting and spinning—Ransom for Du Guesclin, 74—Chapel of St.
+Leonard patron saint of prisoners—Curious charms against fever, 75.
+
+PAIMPOL—Château de Boisgelin, 75—Abbey of Beauport, 76—Situation of
+Paimpol—Suspension-bridge of Lézardrieux, 80—Château of La Roche Jagu, 81.
+
+PONTRIEUX—Castle of La Roche Derrien, 82—"War of the two Jeannes"—Church
+of Langoat—Monument of Ste. Pompée, 83—Burial customs—Excellence of roads
+in Brittany, 84.
+
+KERMARTIN—St. Ives, 84—Inscription at his birthplace—Interior of a Breton
+dwelling, 86—Church of Minihy-Tréguier—Will of St. Ives, 87.
+
+TRÉGUIER—Cathedral—Burial-place of St. Ives, 88—Constable Clisson,
+89—Cemetery, 90—Skull-boxes, 91.
+
+LANNION—Difficulty of the road, 91—Perros Guirec—Ploumanach—Roche Pendue,
+92—Situation of Lannion—Fishery—Sea-weed gathering, 94—Castle of
+Touquédec, 95—Château of Kergrist, 96.
+
+MORLAIX—Situation—Timbered houses, 97—History, 98—Breton characteristics,
+99—Protestant Missions, 100—"Fontaine des Anglais," 102—River Scenery,
+103.
+
+ST. POL DE LÉON, 103—Religious Monuments—Character of the Léonnais,
+104—Church of Notre Dame de Creizker—Legend of St. Génévroc,
+105—Cathedral, 106—St. Pol and the Dragon, 109—Ursuline Convent—"Droit de
+Motte," 110.
+
+ROSCOFF—Contraband trade with England—Vegetable produce, 111—Historic
+importance, 112—Church—Island of Batz—Enormous old fig-tree, 113.
+
+ST. THÉGONNEC STATION—Cabaret—Church, 114—Guimiliau Church—Sculptures,
+115—Calvary, 116—Buckwheat, 117—Castle and Church of La Roche Maurice,
+118.
+
+BREST—Situation, 118—Harbour, 119—Church of the Folgoët—Legend,
+120—Kersanton stone, 122—Sculptures in Kersanton stone, 123—The Fool’s
+Well, 124—Exterior of Church, 125—Churchyard, 127—Monthly Fair of
+Brest—Peasants’ Costumes, 133.
+
+FINISTÈRE—Abbey of St. Mathieu, 129—Sea-fights, 130—Pont Launay and
+Châteaulin, 134.
+
+QUIMPER, 135—Legend of St. Corentin, 137—Cathedral, 139—National costume,
+140.
+
+CONCARNEAU, 142—Sardine Fishery, 143—Aquarium, 147—Dolmen and
+Rocking-stone of Trégunc—Château of Rustéphan, 149—Valley of Pontaven,
+150.
+
+QUIMPERLÉ—Fishing, 151—Buildings—Tomb of St. Gurloës, 152—Tomb of John de
+Montfort—Ruins of St. Columban, 153—Dirtiness of the Bretons—Animals and
+Farm produce—Butter Indulgence, 154.
+
+LORIENT—Bisson and the Pirates, 155.
+
+HENNEBONT—Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, 156—Church of Notre
+Dame-de-Paradis, 157.
+
+STE. ANNE D’AURAY, 158—Scala Sancta—Fête, 159—Chartreuse, 160—Battle,
+161—Deaf and Dumb School, 164—Massacre of Quiberon, 165—Champ des Martyrs,
+168—Celtic Remains, 169.
+
+LOCMARIAKER—Tumulus—Celtic and other Remains, 170—Tumulus of Gavr’ Inis,
+175.
+
+CARNAC—Celtic Remains—Menhirs of Kermario, 177—Legend of St. Cornély,
+178—Jade Celts, &c., at Plouharnel, 180—Dolmen of Concorro, 181.
+
+VANNES—History—Promenade, 183—Cathedral, 184—Château Gaillau—Tour du
+Connétable, 185—Model Village of Korner-hoët, 187—Peninsula of Rhuys,
+188—Fortress of Sucinio, 189—Abbey of St. Gildas, 192—Abelard and the
+Breton Monks, 193—The Breton "Blue Beard," 194—Butte d’Arzon—Castle of
+Elven, 199—Growth of Chestnuts, 203.
+
+PLOËRMEL, 203—Church, 204—Tombs, 205—Column of the Thirty, 206—Battle of
+the Thirty, 207—Château of Josselin, 209—Church of Josselin, 213.
+
+MONTFORT-SUR-MER—Forest of Paimpont—Fairy tales, 215.
+
+RENNES, ancient capital of Brittany—Entry of Henry IV.—Scenery of the
+Loire, 216—Castle of Champtoceaux, 218.
+
+NANTES—Cathedral, 221—Tombs, 222—Castle—Anne of Brittany, 223—Promenades
+and Boulevards—Museum, 227—Jardin des Plantes—Descent of the Loire—The
+Noyades, 228.
+
+ST. NAZAIRE—Historical associations, 230—Le Croisic, 232—Salt-pans,
+233—Costume of the Paludiers, 234—Saulniers—Chouan: origin of the name and
+of the War, 241—Church of Batz, 243—Situation of Le Croisic, 244—Chapel of
+St. Goustan, 245.
+
+GUÉRANDE—Church of St Aubin—Chapel of Notre Dame Blanche, 246—La Roche
+Bernard, 247—Wedding Festivities, 248—National Music—Female Costume—Fête
+de la Vierge and of the Emperor, 249—Scenery of the River Loch, 250.
+
+BELLE ISLE—Le Palais—M. Trochu’s Model Farm, 251—Breton fatalism,
+252—Grotte du Port Coton, 255—Historical associations of Belle Isle,
+256—Fishery, 257.
+
+PONT L’ABBÉ, 257—Costumes, 258—Church, 259.
+
+LOCTUDY—Romanesque Church, 261.
+
+TORCHE DE PENMARCH, 262—Church of St. Guenolé, 263—"Le filet saint"—Ruins
+of the old Town, 264—Fontenelle the Leaguer, 267—Church of St. Nonna,
+268—Menhirs at Kerscaven, 269.
+
+AUDIERNE—Lighthouse—Bathing-machines, 269—Town, 270.
+
+POINTE DU RAZ—Popular superstitions—Church of St. Collédoc, 271—"Enfer de
+Plogoff"—Island of Sein—Druidesses, 272—Dangerous passage, 273—Baie des
+Trépassés—Submerged city of Is, 274—Legend of King Gradlon and his
+daughter Dahut, 275.
+
+DOUARNENEZ—Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, 276—Chapel of Notre Dame de
+Comfort—Wheel of Sacring-Bells—Town of Douarnenez, 279—Pardon of Ste.
+Anne-de-la-Palue, 280—Costume, 281—Church of Ste. Anne—Procession,
+282—Holy Well of Ste. Anne, 285.
+
+SCAËR—Old Customs and Superstitions, 285—Wrestling—"Pierres de Croix,"
+286.
+
+LE FAOUÉT—Chapel of St. Barbe, 287—Wedding ceremonies and amusements,
+288—Fishing, 289—Old Breton superstitious still prevalent—Lavandières de
+la Nuit, 290—Church of St. Fiacre—Elaborately carved Rood-screen,
+293—Painted glass—Ruined Castle of Poncallec—Plot of Cellamare,
+294—Montagnes Noires, 296.
+
+CARHAIX—Situation, 297—Statue of La Tour d’Auvergne, 298—Fair and
+Market—Church of St. Tremeur—Skull-boxes, 299.
+
+HUELGOAT, 300—Lead-mines, 301—Cascade of St. Herbot—Chapel of St. Herbot,
+303—His tomb, 304—Patron of cattle—Offerings of horsehair and cows’ tails,
+304—Homeward journey, 307.
+
+USEFUL DATES in the History of Brittany           309
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE of the Dukes of Brittany      310
+
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+  VIGNETTE—St. Michael’s Mount, Title-page.
+  1. Querqueville Church, 6
+  2. Plan of Querqueville Church, 6
+  3. Château of Tourlaville, 9
+  4. Castle of Bricquebec, 13
+  5. Badge of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, 17
+  6. Coutances Cathedral, 20
+  7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, 31
+  8. Front of the Tomb, 32
+  9. Menhir, near Dol, 35
+  10. Château of Combourg, 37
+  11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, 38
+  12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand’s Tomb, 40
+  13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, 52
+  14. Château of La Bellière, 54
+  15. Chimney, Château of La Bellière, 56
+  16. Château of La Garaye, 60
+  17. Section of Lanleff Church, 69
+  18. Plan of Lanleff Church, 70
+  19. Fountain of Duke Peter, 73
+  20. Abbey of Beauport, 77
+  21. Skull-box, 91
+  22. The Creizker, 107
+  23. Calvary, Guimiliau, 116
+  24. The Fool’s Well, Folgoët, 124
+  25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, 131
+  26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant, 133
+  27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin, 135
+  28. Begger, Quimper, 141
+  29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, 143
+  30. Dolmen, Trégunc, 146
+  31. Rocking-Stone, Trégunc, 148
+  32. Château of Rustéphan, 150
+  33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d’Auray, 159
+  34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, 169
+  35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, 171
+  36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, 173
+  37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr’ Inis, 175
+  38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr’ Inis, 176
+  40. Dolmen of Corcorro, 182
+  41. Castle of Elven, 200
+  42. Column of the Thirty, 206
+  43. Château of Josselin, 212
+  44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, 235
+  45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, 237
+  46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, 239
+  47. La Roche Bernard, 247
+  48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, 253
+  49. Device of Fouquet, 257
+  50. Peasant Girl, Pont l’Abbé, 258
+  51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, 260
+  52. Torche of Penmarch, 262
+  53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch, 264
+  54. Church of Guenolé, Penmarch, 265
+  55. Fleur-de-lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, 269
+  56. Pointe du Raz, 270
+  57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, 277
+  58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, 279
+  59. Costume of a Finistère Bride, 281
+  60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, 284
+  61. Cross Stones, 286
+  62. Rood-screen or Jubé, St. Fiacre, 291
+  63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 304
+  64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 305
+
+
+
+
+
+BRITANNY AND ITS BYWAYS.
+
+
+A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole to Cherbourg. It was dusk
+when we entered the harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing its
+beauty until the following morning, when we ascended a height behind the
+town, called the Mont du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by
+carriage, the Emperor having ordered a road to be made up to the fort
+which crowns the heights, on the occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in
+1858, of her Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were immediately set to
+work, and, in a few days, an easy carriage-road was finished, up which the
+Emperor drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace. The view from the fort is
+lovely, commanding the whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin,
+from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to Barfleur. The water of the
+harbour, owing to its great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we
+quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in likening to that of the Bay
+of Naples. Across its entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of
+the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet of our yacht squadron,
+which the day before had run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We took a
+boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded at each end by a fort, with
+another in the centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy weather
+the sea washes over the breakwater, and sometimes for days prevents all
+communication between the forts, and the supplies consequently are
+stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells of the Venus’ ear,
+which inhabits the rocks of the breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the
+fish-market exposed for sale, and, on expressing some curiosity as to how
+they were eaten, the landlord had a dish prepared for us. These fish
+resemble the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require a great
+deal of beating with a wooden mallet to make them tender enough to eat.
+They are called "ormer," or "gofish." The table d’hôte was very
+plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout Normandy and
+Brittany, cider, the customary beverage of the country, was always placed
+upon the table. It varies very much in quality in different districts;
+that of Bayeux is most esteemed.
+
+The next morning we set out for the dockyard. To obtain admission, it
+first requires a letter from the English Consul, who lives in a charming
+spot overlooking the sea, at the foot of the Montagne du Roule. Furnished
+with this, we repaired to the Préfet Maritime, who gave us an order to be
+presented at the dockyard gate, where it was countersigned, and a guide
+appointed to show us over the establishment. We made the tour round all
+the basins and workshops, and saw the canot impérial used by the Emperor
+on the visit of our Queen,—a most elegant boat, beautifully carved with
+marine subjects. The model of a Roman trireme, or galley, is in one of the
+basins, and in the little museum, or Salle des Modèles, are the two
+flagstones that covered the grave of Napoleon, and were deposited here by
+the Prince de Joinville, when he returned with the Emperor’s remains from
+St. Helena. The dockyard partly stands on a spot called Chantereyne. The
+Empress Matilda, fleeing from Stephen, was overtaken by a tempest when
+making for Cherbourg, and vowed, if her life were spared, to build a
+church. The ship was in jeopardy, but the pilot cheered her spirits, and,
+when gaining the port, exclaimed, "Chantes Reine! we are safe in harbour."
+The place where she landed has always retained the name; and here the
+Empress, in fulfilment of her vow, founded an abbey, which was destroyed
+in the Revolution. The habitations of the nuns is the present provisional
+Hôpital de la Marine; a new one, containing above a thousand beds, being
+in course of construction, and a modern church, called Eglise du Vœu, has
+been erected in another part of the town in place of that of the Empress
+Matilda.
+
+Henry II. held his court in the castle with his empress-mother in great
+splendour; it had formerly been tenanted by Duke William of Normandy
+before his invasion of England, and, within its enclosure, he built a
+church also, in consequence of a vow made during a serious illness. There
+are few objects of interest in the town of Cherbourg. The women all wear
+the large Normandy cap. In the Place d’Armes is a bronze equestrian statue
+of the Emperor Napoleon I., and on the pedestal is inscribed "J’avois
+résolu de renouveler à Cherbourg les merveilles de l’Egypte."  In the
+Library is a curiously sculptured chimney-piece of the fifteenth century,
+coloured and gilt, removed from a room of the abbey. The principal church,
+La Trinité, is a strange jumble of architecture. There is some beautiful
+tracery in the windows, and a fine boss (clef pendante) in the south
+porch, now restored. On a board in the church is an inscription, setting
+forth it was built in consequence of a "vœu solennel des habitans de
+Cherbourg en 1450 de la délivrance de la domination étrangère"—that is,
+from the English, whose defeat the same year at Formigny, by the Constable
+de Richemont, expelled them for ever from Normandy.
+
+There is much to see in the environs of Cherbourg, which makes it a good
+central point for excursions. We drove by the fort of Octeville, where a
+magnificent panoramic view is obtained, equalling in extent that from the
+Mont du Roule. A fisherman, who was standing by, told us the names of the
+numerous forts that bristle in every direction, and related to us the
+legend of the monk of Saire, who, having received the rent due to his
+father for some land, appropriated the money to his own use, and, on the
+tenant declaring he had paid the sum, adjured the evil one to carry him
+off, if he had ever received the money. The words were no sooner uttered
+than there came a flash of lightning, and the monk vanished: but he still
+appears in the roads of Cherbourg floating on the sea; when he sees a
+sailor, he cries "Save me, save me! I am about to sink!" but the hapless
+being who approaches to assist him is immediately dragged into the water,
+a peal of infernal laughter is heard, and the luckless mariner disappears
+for ever. We asked our guide if he believed in the phantom monk, but he
+was silent.
+
+[Illustration: 1. Querqueville Church.]
+
+From Octeville we proceeded to Querqueville, where, in the same churchyard
+as the parochial church, stands a little church, named after St. Germain,
+the first apostle of the Cotentin, who, in the fifth century, landed from
+England on the coast of La Hogue, and preached Christianity in this
+district and the valley traversed by the river Saire, which falls into the
+sea near St. Vaast-la-Hogue. This tiny church, for it measures only 34
+feet by 24, and is 11 feet high, is by some supposed to have been a temple
+of the Gauls converted into a Christian place of worship; the nave and
+tower having been added to the old temple, which consists of a triple apse
+forming a regular trefoil, each of which has a domed top. We drove on to
+Nacqueville, the château of Comte Hippolyte de Tocqueville. The park is
+prettily laid out, a stream of water runs in front of the house, and a row
+of blue hydrangeas blazed forth in great beauty, with the relief of a
+background of dark firs. Time prevented us from pursuing our excursion
+further west, to see the famed cliffs of Jobourg.
+
+[Illustration: 2. Plan of Querqueville Church.]
+
+To the east of Cherbourg a high road leads to Barfleur and the lighthouse
+of Gatteville, between which and the Isle of Wight is the narrowest point
+of the English Channel, passing by Saint-Pierre-Eglise, near which is the
+château of the late Alexis de Tocqueville, author of ’Democracy in
+America;’ but we did not get further on the road than Tourlaville, the
+ancient château of the Ravalet family, upon whom tradition has heaped
+every crime imaginable. One seigneur entered the church with his hounds
+and stabbed the priest at the altar, because he refused to administer to
+him the consecrated element; another hanged some of his vassals, because
+they did not grind their corn at the seignorial mill, for "haute or basse
+justice" was then among the nobles’ rights. Marguerite, a daughter of this
+ancient house, expiated, with her brother, their offences upon the
+scaffold at Paris. Every effort was made to spare their lives; but the
+King, or rather Queen Margot, was inexorable. The château of Tourlaville
+is beautifully situated; it is in the style of the Renaissance, with an
+angular tower, which recalls that of Heidelberg Castle. The ground-floor
+consists of two large unfurnished rooms, and a staircase, with iron
+railing, leads to the story above. In one room hangs the portrait of a
+lady châteleine, in the costume of the period of Louis XIII., with the
+château of Tourlaville in the distance. On her left are eight Cupids with
+bandages over their eyes, one in advance of the others is not blinded.
+From the lady’s mouth is a label, with the inscription "Un (seul) me
+suffit." This is said to be the portrait of the Lady Marguerite, but the
+costume is of a later date. In one of the rooms is a chimney-piece covered
+with a variety of amatory devices and mottoes:—a Cupid blinded, holding a
+lighted torch, motto "Ce qui me donne la vie me cause la mort." Again,
+another Cupid with eyes bandaged, pouring water out of a vase to cool a
+flaming heart he holds in his hand, motto "Sa froideur me glace les veines
+et son ardeur brûle mon cœur." Six winged hearts flying at the approach of
+Cupid, but which are reached by his darts, "Même en fuyant l’on est pris."
+Further is a sentiment in verse:—
+
+
+    “Plusieurs sont atteints de ce feu,
+    Mais il ne s’en guérit que fort peu.”
+
+
+Again,—
+
+
+    “Ces deux n’en font qu’un.”
+
+
+[Illustration: 3. Château of Tourlaville.]
+
+A river in the foreground, in the distance a setting sun, motto "Ainsi
+puissai-je mourir." This assemblage of devices and mottoes is not
+applicable to any particular individual, but may be supposed to be merely
+an expression of the taste of the time. They are of the seventeenth
+century, when the Ravalet had been succeeded by the Franquetot family, who
+have since taken the name of Coigny. Their arms, with several others, are
+in the little boudoir in one of the towers, called the Blue Chamber. Its
+walls are distempered blue, and the coverlet and hangings of the bed, with
+all the decorations of the room, are of the same colour. Having admired
+the lovely view from the "Tour des quatre vents," we descended to the
+kitchen of the farmer who rents the house, which now belongs to the
+Tocqueville family. His wife was busily employed in making "crêpes," a
+favourite kind of cake in Normandy and Brittany. It is made generally of
+the flour of the sarrasin or buckwheat, mixed with milk or water, and
+spread into a kind of pancake, which is fried on an iron pan, resembling
+the Scotch griddle-cakes. Another variety, called "galette," is made of
+the same ingredients, but differs from the crêpe in its being made three
+or four times the thickness, and is therefore not so light. Though
+generally made of buckwheat, wheat or oat-flour is sometimes used; and in
+the towns, sugar and cinnamon and vanilla are added, and the simple
+character of the crêpe entirely changed under the hands of the
+confectioner. The little village of Tourlaville was famous for its
+glassworks, until supplanted by those of Gobain.
+
+On our return to Cherbourg we visited the lace school of the Sœurs de la
+Providence, where about two hundred girls are employed in making black
+lace like that of Bayeux, which has now completely superseded the
+Chantilly; the manner of making both laces is similar. The old Chantilly
+has completely died out, and the modern manufacture extends the whole
+length of Normandy from Cherbourg to Bayeux. How the children can keep the
+bobbins from entangling is a marvel; there were as many as five hundred on
+one pillow. The lace-makers were chiefly employed in flounces, shawls, and
+other large works. These are all made in separate pieces, and united by
+the stitch called fine joining or "raboutissage." A half-shawl or "pointe"
+was divided into thirty segments. We passed the evening at the
+Etablissement, and next morning left Cherbourg.
+
+The railway traverses the picturesque and rocky valley of Quincampoix to
+Martinvast, whose little Romanesque church stands close to the station,
+and at a short distance is the château of Martinvast, where its late
+proprietor, M. du Moncel, established a model farm. A monument has been
+erected to his memory in the church by the commune of Martinvast.
+
+[Illustration: 4. Castle of Bricquebec.]
+
+At Sottevast we took the omnibus for Bricquebec, which lies nearly five
+miles from the station. Its ruined castle, dating from the end of the
+fourteenth century, with its lofty octagonal donjon, nearly a hundred feet
+high, standing on a high "motte" or artificial mound, has a most imposing
+appearance. Bricquebec, the most considerable demesne of the Cotentins,
+was taken by King Henry V. from the Sire d’Estouteville, who had so
+gallantly defended Mont St. Michel against him. Henry gave Bricquebec to
+William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, the ill-fated favourite of Queen
+Margaret of Anjou, and he, on being taken prisoner by the French, sold it,
+to raise the money for his ransom, to Sir Bertie Entwistle, who fought at
+Agincourt, and who held it till the battle of Formigny expelled the
+English from Normandy, and Sir Bertie fell at St. Albans in the
+Lancastrian cause. The inn, "Hôtel du Vieux Château," is within the
+enclosure of the ruins—a most dilapidated old place; our dirty
+ill-furnished room next to a hayloft, the horses passing through the house
+to the stable, and every kind of litter and rubbish accumulated under the
+windows. Yet in the room we occupied had once slept our gracious Sovereign
+Queen Victoria. On a placard is inscribed, "Chambre de la famille royale
+d’Angleterre, 18 Août 1857;" and below stairs is another, setting forth,
+"S. M. la Reine d’Angleterre, le Prince Albert, les Princesses Royale et
+Alice, le Prince Alfred, sont descendus à l’hôtel du Vieux Château le 10
+Août 1857." About a mile from Bricquebec is a Trappist convent; but we
+were not allowed admission beyond the parlour, where is sold a quantity of
+cutlery, not made—as we were given to understand when offered for sale—by
+the monks.
+
+Regaining the railroad, we went on to Valognes, which has been styled the
+St. Germain of Normandy; a dull town, with worn-out houses, occupied by
+worn-out aristocratic families. The grass grows in the streets.
+
+Here we left the rail and proceeded to Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte. On
+entering the town, the castle is on the right of the road, the Abbey
+church on the left. The large demesne of Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte passed
+by marriage into the Harcourt family, and belonged, in the time of Edward
+III., to Geoffrey d’Harcourt, whose fortress was one of the most
+formidable in Normandy. Banished from France, he went over to England and
+persuaded Edward III. to make a descent upon Normandy instead of Gascony,
+assuring him he would find rich towns and fair castles without any means
+of defence, and that his people would gain wealth enough to suffice them
+for twenty years to come. The King landed at La Hogue, or Saint
+Vaast-la-Hogue, as it is now called, where he knighted the Prince of Wales
+and made Warwick and Harcourt marshals of his army. They advanced in three
+divisions—the King and the Prince in the centre, the two marshals on the
+right and left—ravaging all before them, and not stopping in their
+victorious course till the great victory at Crecy. Harcourt subsequently
+met a traitor’s fate. A force was sent against him, his army was routed,
+and, preferring death to being taken, he fought most valiantly until he
+was struck to the ground by French lances, when some men-at-arms
+dispatched him with their swords. He had sold the reversion of his castle
+to King Edward III., to whom it was confirmed by the treaty of Bretigny.
+Edward bestowed the barony upon that pride of English chivalry, Sir John
+Chandos, in recompense for his great services in the wars. The square
+donjon and inner gate were built by Chandos. The castle is well preserved,
+and is now used as a hospice for orphans and aged women. The rooms are
+kept beautifully clean, and on a tablet in one of the corridors is written
+up "Dortoirs restaurés par la munificence de M. le Comte Georges
+d’Harcourt en mémoire de ses illustres ayeux, anciens Seigneurs de ce
+château, en 1838."
+
+The Benedictine convent also belonged to the Harcourts until the revolt of
+Geoffrey. It is now the property of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, who have
+rebuilt the fine Abbey church according to its former model. Originally
+built in the eleventh century, it was partly burnt in the fourteenth, and
+reconstructed in the fifteenth. The columns and arches of the nave are of
+the first period; the form of the church is a Latin cross, having an apse
+ornamented with a double row of lancet windows, richly sculptured. The
+sculptures are all executed by an untaught workman of the place, who died
+before he had completed the pulpit. To collect the funds necessary for the
+undertaking, the foundress travelled throughout Europe. Her tomb is in the
+church. "Julie Françoise Catherine Postel, née à Barfleur, 1756. Sœur
+Marie Madelaine, Fondatrice et première Superieure Générale de l’Institut
+des Ecoles Chrétiennes de la Miséricorde, morte en odeur de Sainteté 16
+Juillet 1846, à l’Abbaye de St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte." The badge of the
+sisterhood is a cross inscribed with their motto "L’obéissance jusqu’à la
+mort." Some of the party made an attempt at fishing in the little river
+Douve, but without success, though rewarded for their walk by a pretty
+view of the apse of the Abbey church, with its delicately-sculptured
+lancet windows, from the opposite side of the river.
+
+[Illustration: 5. L’OBÉISSANCE JUSQU’À LA MORT.]
+
+We hired a private carriage (_voiture à volonté_) to Périers. After
+passing over a hilly road we crossed a marsh which extends from Carentan
+to the sea, and reached a town called La Haye-du-Puits—a singular name
+derived from the custom in the middle ages of surrounding the "motte" or
+enclosure upon which the donjon was built, with a wooden palisade, or
+sometimes with a thick hedge formed of thorns and branches of trees
+interlaced: hence La Haye-du-Puits, La Haye-Pesnel, and others. Here is a
+Norman church restored: all the capitals of the columns are of the same
+pattern.
+
+The Abbey church at Lessay, where next we stopped, is of the twelfth
+century, and considered, with Coutances and Périers, to be the finest
+examples of Romanesque in the Cotentin. The arches are round, and all the
+architecture of the church, which has been restored, is of the same
+period. The Abbey of Lessay had transmarine jurisdiction and the right of
+presentation to the Priory of Boxgrove and other endowments in the diocese
+of Chichester. The Abbey house, now inhabited, is a fine modernised
+habitation. At Lessay we saw the manner of washing linen practised in many
+places throughout Normandy and Brittany. Being first roughly washed in the
+river, the clothes are placed in layers in a large cask, with a bunghole
+at the bottom, alternately with wood-ashes, and on the top is laid a piece
+of coarse sacking. Boiling water is poured over the top, which, as it
+passes through the linen, absorbs the soda of the ashes, escaping at the
+bottom and carrying away with it all impurities. This process is repeated
+several times till the clothes are perfectly white.
+
+Throughout this part of the country the mistletoe hangs as the sign of a
+cabaret; and if cider is sold, some apples are fastened to the bush. On
+the road to Périers we crossed a "lande" or common, where we met numerous
+carts carrying sea sand, here used to mix with the heavy soil as manure.
+
+At Périers we slept at the little inn "La Croix Blanche," kept by Madame
+Casimir, the widow of a Polish officer, well known for her eccentricity
+and good cuisine. The entrance to the apartments in the inns is generally
+through the kitchen; in many the box bedstead (_lit clos_) stands in the
+corner near the fire, Breton fashion. On a barber’s shop we saw painted up
+"Içi l’on rajeunit." The church has a tall spire, and is one of the finest
+religious edifices in this part of Normandy—painted windows, the capitals
+of the columns of varied foliage, and fine groined clustered arches.
+
+We had a most perilous drive to Coutances, the coachman, "en ribote,"
+drove us at a fearful pace, and we were thankful when we arrived in
+safety. The Norman cathedral is beautiful—so simple, so pure, and elegant;
+its tall towers terminating in spires; and the chapels being separated by
+open mullioned arches, great lightness is given to the interior. The
+Bishop of Coutances was officiating at the consecration of some stones for
+a new pavement; each flag was rubbed over and anointed with oil.
+
+[Illustration: 6. Coutances Cathedral.]
+
+The church of St. Pierre has a handsome square tower, pierced gallery, and
+apse with a double row of columns. In the church of St. Nicholas we
+particularly noticed the fine bosses of the groined arches in the chancel.
+The fonts hereabouts have the serpent with the apple, and the cross carved
+upon the cover. The church was filled with pots of flowers they were
+employed in removing, for the day before had been the Fête of St. Fiacre,
+the patron of gardeners. St. Fiacre, or Fiaker, was an Irish monk of the
+seventh century, who, according to tradition, obtained from the Bishop of
+Meaux a grant of as much ground out of the forest as he could dig a trench
+round in one day’s labour, for the purpose of making a garden and
+cultivating vegetables for travellers. Long time after, the peasants would
+show the ditch ten times longer than was expected, and relate how, when
+the Irishman took his stick to trace a line upon the soil, the earth dug
+itself under the point of the stick, while the forest trees fell right and
+left to save him the trouble of cutting them down. Outside the town are
+the remains of an aqueduct, with ivy-covered arches, said to be the work
+of the middle ages. It is a good point of view for sketching the
+cathedral, and the public gardens also command a fine prospect.
+
+The approach to Granville is by a sharp descent. The town is built at the
+foot of a rocky promontory, the streets rising in terraces cut in the
+rock, on the top of which are the citadel and the church on the
+culminating point. It has been styled a Gibraltar in miniature. A fort was
+built here by Lord Scales, who commanded the English forces in the
+Cotentin in the time of Henry VI., and it was taken by surprise by
+Estouteville, the hero of Saint Michel. The church is cruciform in plan,
+the arms of the cross being equal. The axis of the nave is inclined to the
+left, as we afterwards observed that of the Creizker at St. Pol de Léon.
+It has been lately restored, and the painted windows are offerings of the
+different families of the town. The view from the top of the "Roc" is very
+extensive, including the Chausey islands and Jersey. A steamer runs twice
+a week to St. Helier. A deep cutting in the rocks opens on the beach,
+where the bathing-machines are stationed—curious little canvas huts
+carried upon poles, like sedan chairs. The tide here rises 45 feet. It was
+to Granville the Vendean army, commanded by La Rochejacquelin, appointed
+generalissimo at twenty-two, marched after their fatal step of crossing
+the Loire, expecting to make a junction with the English; but Granville
+was vigorously defended, contrary winds retarded the arrival of the
+English fleet, and the retreat from the coast, where it might have been
+supported by the English, was the ruin of the Royalist army. Of the 80,000
+who crossed the Loire sixty days before, only 8000 remained to make their
+last heroic resistance at Savenay, which ended the great Vendean war. A
+few months after, the hero of this noble army, the chivalrous Henri de la
+Rochejacquelin, fell from the bullet of a soldier whose life he had
+spared(1):—
+
+
+    “Lorsqu’en des jours trop malheureux
+    Pâlissait l’astre de la France;
+    Quand les cœurs les plus valeureux
+    Semblaient perdre toute espérance,
+
+    L’antique honneur, la sainte foi,
+    Brillèrent dans cette contrée;
+    Mourir pour son Dieu, pour son roi,
+    Fut le serment de la Vendée.”
+
+
+The costume of the Granville women is singular. They wear long black
+cloaks or mantles, edged with a frill of the same material, and on their
+heads a kind of bandeau or under-cap, turned up at the ears, surmounted by
+a white handkerchief, folded square and placed horizontally upon the head,
+like the plinth of a Grecian capital.
+
+We drove to St. Pair, a small watering-place about two miles from
+Granville, nicely situated in a little sandy bay. In the middle of the
+church is the monumental tomb of St. Pair and another saint (St. Gault);
+their effigies, with mitre and crozier, side by side.
+
+Next day we had a beautiful drive to Avranches. A winding road leads up to
+the town, which is situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a view of
+Brittany on one side and of Normandy on the other—a broad expanse of land
+and sea, the former extending over the valley of the Sée, with its network
+of small streams interlacing each other; Mont St. Michel appears in the
+distance. The finest view is from the Botanic gardens. The cathedral of
+Avranches fell at the end of the last century, but a model of it is
+preserved in the museum. One stone remains, carefully surrounded by
+massive chains, with an inscription recording that it was the spot where
+Henry II. received absolution for the murder of Thomas à Becket:—"Sur
+cette pierre, içi à la porte de la cathédrale d’Avranches, après le
+meurtre de Thomas Becket, Archévêque de Cantorbéry, Henri II., roi
+d’Angleterre, duc de Normandie, reçut à genoux, des légats du pape,
+l’absolution apostolique, le dimanche xxii Mai, 1172." The cemetery is at
+the foot of the hill; the tombs are of granite, with the letters in
+relief: among them we read many well-known English names.
+
+At Pontorson we could find no remains of the castle of Du Guesclin, which
+was nearly surprised by the English under a captain named Felton, during
+the absence of Du Guesclin, with the connivance of the "chambrières" of
+the Lady Typhaine, his wife. Already their scaling-ladders were against
+the wall, when Juliana, Du Guesclin’s sister, agitated by a troublous
+dream, awoke suddenly, seized a sword, rushed to the window, and upset
+three English who were coming up the ladder, and they were killed by the
+fall. The enemy retired. Next morning Du Guesclin, on his return to
+Pontorson, met Felton and his party, attacked them, and took them
+prisoners. When Typhaine saw Felton, she tauntingly exclaimed, "Comment,
+brave Felton, vous voilà encore! C’est trop pour un homme de cœur comme
+vous d’être battu, dans une intervalle de douze heures, une fois par la
+sœur, une autre par le frère." Du Guesclin caused the faithless
+"chambrières" to be sewed up in sacks and flung into the river.
+
+John IV. Duke of Brittany conferred upon Du Guesclin the government of
+Pontorson, of which territory he was personally lord, by right of his
+mother. It was here he often resided, and here he celebrated being made
+Constable of France by King Charles V., and fraternised with Olivier de
+Clisson, agreeing to afford each other mutual help—"contre tous ceux qui
+peuvent vivre et mourir." The granite church was founded by Duke Robert,
+father of the Conqueror.
+
+Pontorson is the most convenient place for visiting Mont St. Michel. Our
+drive thither was by the banks of the river Couësnon, along a sandy road,
+bordered on each side by hedges of tamarisks, which leads to the "Grève,"
+or sands, which have to be crossed to reach the Mount, a distance of
+rather more than a mile. We met numbers of bare-legged half-clad women and
+children, bringing in the produce of their fishing, shrimps and cockles
+tied up in nets, and peasants with carts carrying in sea sand for dressing
+the land. The appearance of Mont St. Michel is very imposing, a cone of
+granite encircled by the sea. Above rises the fortress, surmounted by the
+church, a height of 400 feet from the top to the water. Below, at the foot
+of the Mount, picturesquely situated on an insulated rock, is the little
+chapel of St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, the founder of St. Michel. The
+Mount has been the residence of many of our English princes. Matilda,
+queen of the Conqueror, visited St. Michel.  It was here her son Henry I.,
+then only Count of the Cotentin, was blockaded by his brothers William and
+Robert, and obliged to surrender. Here Henry II. held his court, and, when
+Henry V. overran Normandy, St. Michel was the only fortress that held out
+against him, under its gallant defender Louis d’Estouteville of
+Bricquebec. Two cannons, now at the entrance of the castle, are said to
+have been taken from the English at the siege. Normandy was always the
+scene of the quarrels between the English Norman princes, of the disputes
+between the sons of the Conqueror, between Stephen of Blois and Henry of
+Anjou, and again of those between Henry II. and his sons, and of Richard
+and his brother John, to the latter of whom the Normans were attached.
+
+Seven French kings have made pilgrimages to St. Michel; and here Louis XI.
+instituted the order of knighthood, called in honour of the archangel St.
+Michael, but afterwards styled the order of the Coquille, from the
+cockleshells that formed the collar of the knights, and the golden
+cockle-shells that bordered their mantles. The motto of the order was the
+old motto of the Mount, "Immensi tremor Oceani" (the trembling of the
+immeasurable ocean), being an allusion to the popular belief that when the
+English approached St. Michel, the guardian archangel of the Mount raised
+a tempest to drive the enemy’s vessels upon the rocks. This belief may be
+traced back to the time when the island was occupied by the Druid
+priestesses, who were supposed to have the power of raising storms and
+stilling them by their magic arrows of gold.
+
+We ascended by the flight of steps to the "Merveille," as the convent
+building is called, and well it deserves its name, from its elegance, its
+boldness, and its position, with a wall of above one hundred feet high,
+and of immense length, rising from the rock and supported by fifteen
+buttresses, and divided into three stories. In every point of view it is
+one of the most remarkable edifices of the thirteenth century. The salle
+des chevaliers, where the chapters of the knights were held, is a fine
+hall, with three rows of columns, and above it are the beautiful Gothic
+cloisters. The "préau" or court is surrounded by a double row of pointed
+arches, interlacing each other, and filled in with flowered spandrils and
+cornices, carved with the greatest delicacy and endless variety. The
+church which crowns the building is supported by a circle of enormous
+columns in the crypt beneath, called the Souterrain des Gros Piliers: it
+has been entirely restored, and the carvings are the work of the prisoners
+who were confined here. From one of the doors we went out to the platform
+or terrace called Beauregard, from the beauty of its prospect, or
+sometimes Sault Gautier, from a prisoner of that name, who three times
+threw himself off the platform to commit suicide. The view from hence is
+most extensive, the whole circuit of the bay extending to the west as far
+as Cancale. In 1203 St. Michel became a royal demesne, and the buildings
+were entirely reconstructed by the Abbot Jourdan, assisted by Philip
+Augustus; and the works were continued by his successors to 1260.
+
+Beneath and adjacent to the Mount, is the little island of La Tombeleine
+or tombeau d’-Helène, so called from a young lady of that name, who unable
+to accompany her lover knight when he left for England with the Conqueror,
+as soon as the vessel which carried him away disappeared from her sight,
+laid down on the shore and died. Every year, on the anniversary of her
+death, the fishermen will tell you they see a dove seated upon the
+Tombeleine rock, and remain there till morning’s dawn.
+
+The guide pointed out to us the window of St. Michel, from which Barbès
+tried to escape by means of a cord made of his sheets cut into strips and
+tied together; but the line was too short, and he fell upon the rock and
+was taken up much hurt. The provisions for the fortress are brought in up
+an inclined plane, and raised by means of a tread-wheel, formerly worked
+by the prisoners. We were conducted to the spot where stood, with bars
+only three inches apart, the iron cage in which so many celebrities were
+immured. Dubourg, the Dutch journalist, who wrote against Louis XIV., died
+within its bars, devoured, it is said, by the rats. In 1777, the Comte
+d’Artois (afterwards Charles X.) desired it should be destroyed, but his
+wishes were disregarded. His cousin, the Duc de Chartres (afterwards Louis
+Philippe), with his brother and sister, and Madame de Genlis, subsequently
+visited the Mount. All exclaimed against the iron cage, and when they
+heard that the Comte d’Artois had ordered its destruction, they sent for
+hatchets, and the Duc de Chartres gave the first blow towards its
+demolition; but the fine old fortress is no longer desecrated as a prison.
+The Emperor has restored it to its original position, and it is now placed
+under the control of the Bishop of Coutances, and is used as an asylum for
+orphans under the care of a few Sisters.
+
+Next morning we crossed the boundary between Normandy and Brittany, the
+river Couësnon, which has often changed its course, once, it is said,
+running beyond St. Michel—hence the popular saying—
+
+
+    “Le Couësnon par sa folie
+    A mis le Mont en Normandie.”
+
+
+We had a beautiful drive to Dol or Dol-de-Bretagne, as it is styled, to
+distinguish it from the fortress of the same name in the Jura, upon the
+taking of which Madame de Sevigné writes in her letters with so much
+enthusiasm. We were now fairly in Brittany, which though geographically
+part of France still remains very distinct, owing to the Celtic origin of
+its inhabitants. Brittany consists of five departments; but it is in Lower
+Brittany alone, comprised in the departments of Finistère, Morbihan, and
+the Côtes-du-Nord, that the true Celtic race, its language, names,
+features, costumes, and superstitions are to be found.
+
+This is the true Brittany, the Bretagne Bretonnante of Froissart, who
+calls the eastern part of the province, La Bretagne Douce, because the
+French language is spoken there. Dol was the great bulwark of Brittany
+against Normandy; the wall and moat surrounding the town, with some of the
+towers, still remain. Many of the houses are built, as the French term it,
+"en colombage" that is, with the upper story projecting some fifteen feet
+over the ground-floor, forming a gallery or porch supported by oak posts
+or columns with sculptured capitals of the thirteenth century. The inn we
+occupied had one of these porches: Madame Barbot, our landlady, and her
+maid, were both dressed in Breton costume, with lace-trimmed embroidered
+caps and aprons of fine muslin, clear-starched and ironed with a
+perfection which the most accomplished "blanchisseuse du fin" of Paris
+would find it difficult to surpass. The people here have the Breton
+physiognomy, sharp black eyes, short roundi faces and brown freckled
+complexions, a contrast to the blue eyes, long oval faces, and bright
+tints of their Norman neighbours.
+
+[Illustration: 7. Pilaster and Cornice from the Tomb of Bishop James,
+Cathedral, Dol.]
+
+The principal building at Dol is the Cathedral, built of grey granite, in
+the style of many of our English churches. On the south is the "porte
+episcopale," a large projecting porch with mullioned sides, and, near it,
+a smaller porch with a central column semée of hearts, the "armes
+parlantes" of Bishop Cœuret who built it. The clustered columns of the
+nave, consist of a central pillar surrounded by four others running up to
+the roof, so slender and delicate that they are united to the centre by
+small bars of iron. Over the high altar is an enormous wooden crozier,
+carved and gilt, from which the Host is suspended. A beautiful Renaissance
+tomb on the north side of the cathedral was raised in 1507 to the memory
+of Bishop James, who died three years before. The sculpture is much
+mutilated, but the arabesques are most delicately and elegantly chiselled.
+It is supposed to be the work of Jean Just of Tours, sculptor of the
+magnificent tomb of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, erected at St. Denis
+by order of Francis I.
+
+[Illustration: 8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]
+
+The chapel of St. Samson, patron saint of the cathedral, has been
+restored. Mad people were brought here for cure, and placed in a recess
+which still remains; the opening was covered over by an iron grating. Dol
+was formerly the ecclesiastical metropolis of Brittany; the see was
+founded by Samson, one of those British monks, who, with a whole
+population of men and women, emigrated from England to escape the Saxon
+slavery. They crossed the Channel in barks made of skins sewn together,
+singing, as they went, the Lamentations of the Psalmist. This emigration
+lasted more than a century (from 450 to 550), and poured a Christian
+population into a Celtic country where paganism was longest preserved. St.
+Samson and his six suffragans—all monks, missionaries, and bishops, like
+himself—were called the "Seven Saints of Brittany;" St. Samson was what
+was termed an "evêque portatif," meaning a bishop without a diocese, until
+he founded that of Dol. Telio, also a British monk, with the assistance of
+St. Samson, planted near Dol an orchard three miles in length, and to him
+is attributed the first introduction of the apple-tree into Brittany.
+Wherever the monks went, they cultivated the soil; all had in their mouths
+the words of the Apostle, "If any would not work, neither should he eat."
+The people admired the industry of the new comers, and, from admiration
+they passed to imitation; the peasants joined the monks in tilling the
+ground, and even the brigands became agriculturists. "The Cross and the
+plough, labour and prayer," was the motto of these early missionaries.
+
+
+    “Sûr que le Ciel maudit l’arbre stérile,
+    Le sage passe en opérant le bien:
+    Vivre et mourir à l’univers utile,
+    C’est la devise et l’esprit du chrétien.”
+                    _Chants de Piété_, MALO DE GARABY.
+
+
+The monks of Dol were great bee-farmers, as we learn from an anecdote told
+by Count Montalembert in his ’Moines de l’Occident.’ One day when St.
+Samson of Dol and St. Germain, Bishop of Paris, were conversing on the
+respective merits of their monasteries, St. Samson said that his monks
+were such good and careful preservers of their bees that, besides the
+honey which they yielded in abundance, they furnished more wax than was
+used in the churches during the year, but that, their climate not being
+fit for the growth of vines, they had great scarcity of wine. Upon hearing
+this, St. Germain replied, "We, on the contrary, produce more wine than we
+can consume, but we have to buy wax; so, if you will furnish us with wax,
+we will give you a tenth of our wine." Samson accepted the offer, and the
+mutual arrangement was continued during the lives of the two saints.
+
+The marshy country round Dol has been formerly inundated by the sea; it is
+now reclaimed and protected by a dyke twenty-two miles long, extending
+from Pontorson to Chateauneuf. The whole tract is full of buried wood, a
+submerged forest, which the people dig up, and use for furniture. It is
+black, like the Irish bog-oak. They call it "couëron." In the midst of
+this plain rises a mamelon or insulated granite rock, resembling in form
+Mont St. Michel, called the Mont Dol. On the top is the little chapel of
+Notre Dame de l’Espérance, upon which was formerly a telegraph, and near
+it is a column surmounted by a colossal statue of Our Lady. Mont Dol was a
+consecrated place of the Druids. The guides showed us a spring which never
+dries, and also a rock upon which they point out the print of the foot of
+the demon, left by him when wrestling with St. Michael. We met the curé,
+who gave us a medal of the church, and told us the principal points in the
+view before us, extending over the whole Bay of Cancale.
+
+[Illustration: 9. Menhir, near Dol.]
+
+On our way back to Dol, we walked to a cornfield, in the midst of it
+stands a menhir(2) (they are so termed from the Breton _mœn_, stone, and
+_hir_, long), called the "Pierre du champ dolant," a shaft of gray
+granite, about thirty feet high, and said to measure fifteen more
+underground. On the top is a cross. The first preachers of Christianity,
+unable to uproot the veneration for the menhirs, surmounted them with the
+cross, preserving the worship but changing the symbol. In the same manner,
+they did not attempt to destroy the veneration for sacred groves and
+fountains, but transferred to new saints the miracles of times past.
+
+We drove through a pretty country to see the Château of Combourg, where
+Chateaubriand passed his early days. It is a fine square castle of the
+fifteenth century, with massive towers at each corner, surrounded by
+trees, and standing proudly over the village below. The drawbridge has
+been replaced by a modern "perron" or flight of stone steps, which leads
+to the entrance hall. The salle d’honneur looks over a lake. We were taken
+into his little melancholy room which Chateaubriand so well describes.
+
+[Illustration: 10. Château of Combourg.]
+
+  "La fenêtre de mon donjon s’ouvrait sur le cour intérieure; le jour,
+  j’avais en perspective les créneaux de la courtine opposeé, où
+  végétaient des scolopendres et croissait un prunier sauvage. Quelques
+  martinets, qui, durant l’été, s’enfonçaient en criant dans les trous des
+  murs, étaient mes seuls compagnons. La nuit je n’apercevais qu’un petit
+  morceau du ciel et quelques étoiles. Lorsque la lune brillait et qu’elle
+  s’abaissait à l’occident, j’en étais averti par ses rayons, qui venaient
+  à mon lit au travers des carreaux losangés de la fenêtre. Des chouettes
+  voletant d’un tour à l’autre, passant et repassant entre la lune et moi,
+  dessinaient sur mes rideaux l’ombre mobile de leurs ailes."
+
+The bed on which Chateaubriand died has been brought from Paris and placed
+in the room.
+
+[Illustration: 11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.]
+
+The next morning we left Dol for Cancale, of such world-wide celebrity for
+its oysters. We left the railway at La Gouesnière, five miles and a half
+from Cancale, to which we proceeded by the mail cart. It requires to
+travel in Brittany to form any notion of the detestable vehicles, whether
+public or "voitures à volonté," in which travellers in this country are
+condemned to ride. Uncleaned, unpainted, creaking, jolting machines—as
+fully tenanted with every kind of insect annoyance, as if one were
+travelling in a hen-house. The horses are good, hardy, enduring little
+animals, which go their thirty to fifty miles a day without any distress
+either to themselves or the traveller. The Breton drivers are gentle and
+kind, making more use of their voices than of their whips in urging on
+their horses. The town of Cancale is situated on the heights, a
+precipitous descent leading to the village below, called La Houle, which
+lines the edge of the shore, and is occupied mostly by fishermen. This is
+the port, and here are the pier and the lighthouse, and also a comfortable
+inn to which the people of St. Malo resort in large parties, an omnibus
+running thence daily. The panoramic view of the bay of Cancale is
+beautiful and most extensive, one vast crescent of sand some ten square
+leagues in extent, stretching from the picturesque rocks of Cancale to
+Granville, its most northern point, and including Mont Dol, Mont St.
+Michel, and Avranches.  The western side is lined with huts and windmills,
+but the water is so shallow that no boat can land. Having walked round the
+little hurdled-in oyster parks, numbering, we were told, about 600, and
+made ourselves very wet and dirty, though we borrowed sabots to enable us
+to wade through the mud, we returned to the inn, and next day reached St.
+Malo.
+
+[Illustration: 12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.]
+
+St. Malo stands on a small granite island at the mouth of the Rance,
+connected, by a causeway called "Le Sillon," with the mainland. The space
+it occupies is so small, that castle, churches, streets, and towers are
+all crowded together, and the whole is nearly surrounded by a sea wall,
+which makes the town appear as if rising straight out of the ocean.
+Towards the sea, the bay is encircled with groups of craggy islets, many
+surmounted by forts, bristling up as the tide recedes, in every direction.
+Conspicuous among these island rocks is that called the Grand Bé, chosen
+by Chateaubriand for his last resting-place, as he wished to be buried
+near the place of his birth. Singularly enough the name of the island "Bé"
+signifies a tomb. On his request being granted, Chateaubriand wrote to the
+Mayor of St. Malo.
+
+  "Enfin, Monsieur, j’aurai un tombeau, et je vous le devrai, ainsi qu’à
+  mes bienveillants compatriotes. Vous savez, Monsieur, que je ne veux que
+  quelques pieds de sable, une pierre de rivage sans ornement et sans
+  inscription, une simple croix de fer, et une petite grille pour empêcher
+  les animaux de me deterrer. La croix dira que l’homme réposant à ses
+  pieds était un Chrétien; cela suffit à ma mémoire."
+
+At low water, the island is accessible on foot. The tomb consists of a
+plain stone without inscription, surmounted by a granite cross, and is
+surrounded by an iron railing. It is placed on the edge of a rock, and is
+the resort of crowds of pilgrims.
+
+
+  "La vaste mer murmure autour de son cercueil."
+
+
+The Hôtel de France is the house where Chateaubriand’s family lived, and
+the room he occupied is filled with various memorials of him. The
+Chateaubriand arms hang upon the wall. They were given by St. Louis to an
+ancestor who was wounded and taken prisoner at the battle of Massoura. The
+King changed the peacock’s plumes, previously borne by the family, to
+fleurs de lys on a field gules, with the proud motto "Mon sang teint les
+bannières de France." The tides here rise to between forty and fifty feet
+above low-water mark, so that the harbour is dry at low water, and is
+crossed on foot to go to St. Servan, the suburb on the opposite side.
+
+We walked round the ramparts and were shown the little gate down which
+were sent every night the watch dogs of St. Malo, "chiens Anglais qui
+s’appelent dogues." Shut up during the day, they were let out at ten at
+night, and recalled in the morning to the sound of a copper trumpet, by
+their keeper, styled the "chiennetier." Enactments were made for their
+maintenance, called the "droit de chiennage." When let loose at night, a
+warning bell was rung to apprise the inhabitants, as they tore the legs of
+every one they met. Hence it used to be said "Il a été à St. Malo, les
+chiens lui ont rongé les mollets." In 1770, a naval officer trying to
+force a passage was attacked by a troop of these dogs prowling between St.
+Malo and St. Servan; his sword was useless as defence, and, exhausted, in
+despair he threw himself into the sea, but here he was followed by the
+dogs and torn to pieces. A few days after they were all destroyed by the
+municipality, and the custom of keeping them has been since discontinued.
+In an old map of St. Malo, or "Saint Malo de l’isle," as it was then
+styled, preserved in the Imperial Library at Paris, is laid down, near the
+"Sillon" a little sentry-box marked, "Corps-de-garde de nuit pour les
+chiens," and again, near the "Tour de la grande Porte," is the "Pont aux
+chiens." The date of the map is 1662. The arms of St. Malo till the
+seventeenth century were, on a field argent, a mastiff gules.
+
+The castle dates principally from the Queen-Duchess Anne, and one of its
+massive towers, the "Qui qu’en grogne" is a memorial of her dauntless
+spirit. Twice crowned Queen of France, she was the only one of her line
+worthy of the ducal crown. The Bishop of St. Malo was temporal lord of the
+town, and maintained he held it direct from the Pope, as a fief of the
+Church, because it was built upon land where a convent formerly stood; and
+consequently the Duke of Brittany had no authority over it, either
+spiritual or temporal. Duke John V. began to build a castle, but the
+Bishop opposed himself to its construction, and the contest lasted on
+until the time of the Queen-Duchess Anne, who, in defiance of the Bishop,
+and to shew that she was and always would be sovereign of St. Malo,
+finished the fortress and caused the lofty inscription to be placed in
+raised letters upon the great tower: "Qui qu’en grogne, ainsi sera, c’est
+mon plaisir;"—so runs the legend, but unfortunately a similar story is
+told of Louis II., Duke of Bourbon.
+
+On the opposite side of the mouth of the Rance is Dinard, lately become a
+favourite watering-place; it has good sands, and houses and villas are
+rapidly rising up in every direction, and covering its granite hills.
+
+The prettiest route to Dinan is by the little steamer which ascends the
+Rance, a lovely voyage, occupying about two hours. The banks one mixture
+of rocks, valleys, and verdure; the river now expanding into the width of
+a lake, now narrowing between its forest-clothed sides. After passing
+through a lock, and, winding our way through a narrow pass of rocky crags,
+we reached the bridge of Dinan; above us, the gigantic granite viaduct
+stretched across the valley, the town, with its feudal walls and castle,
+perched on its rocky heights over the river.
+
+In the Grande Place is a miserable statue of Du Guesclin, who looks more
+like a wandering minstrel than the hero of Brittany and Constable of
+France. His life forms quite an historic romance. His future greatness was
+foretold by a prophetess; his wife, the Lady Tiphaine, was herself a
+fairy; his battles resemble those of the giants of old. Du Guesclin was
+born at Broons, and was the eldest of ten children and of great trouble to
+his parents. One day his mother dreamt she was in possession of a casket,
+containing portraits of herself and her lord, and on one side were set
+nine precious stones of lustrous beauty encircling one rough unpolished
+pebble. In her dream she carried the casket to a lapidary, and asked him
+to take out the rough stone as unworthy of such goodly company; but he
+advised her to allow it to remain, and subsequently it shone forth more
+brilliantly than the precious gems with which it was surrounded. The after
+superiority of Bertrand over the other nine children explained the dream.
+
+It was in this "Place," where his statue now stands, the celebrated duel
+took place between Du Guesclin and an English knight, called by the Breton
+chroniclers Thomas of Cantorbéry. Dinan was at that time closely besieged
+by the Duke of Lancaster (1359), with the young Count de Montfort, and
+defended by Du Guesclin. A truce of forty days had been agreed upon,
+before the expiration of which Oliver, brother of Du Guesclin, rode out
+unarmed beyond the city walls, and was made prisoner by Thomas of
+Cantorbéry, who demanded a ransom of 1000 florins. On this news reaching
+Du Guesclin, he immediately repaired to the English camp, where he found
+the Duke of Lancaster playing chess with Sir John Chandos. They received
+him most cordially, and agreed that the dispute should be settled by a
+combat within the walls, the Duke of Lancaster consenting to preside.
+Victory declared in favour of Du Guesclin, who would have cut off the head
+of his adversary, had not the Duke of Lancaster interceded for his life.
+Cantorbéry was dragged upon a hurdle out of the lists, and condemned to
+pay 1000 florins to Oliver; his horse and armour were given to Bertrand,
+and the felon knight expelled the English army.
+
+We drove to see the Castle of Montafilant, one of the apanages of the
+Rohan family, which passed with many others to the unfortunate Gilles de
+Bretagne, by his marriage with the heiress Françoise de Dinan. The castle
+is approached by a steep winding path, leading to the plateau upon which
+it stands. Before the use of firearms, its position rendered it
+impregnable. Of its seven towers, two only remain.
+
+The story of Gilles de Bretagne forms the subject of a romance by the
+Vicomte Walsh. Though his conduct was not free from blame, his long
+captivity and tragic end have rendered this unfortunate prince an object
+of pity to posterity. Third son of Duke John V., he was reared with Henry
+VI. of England, and personally attached to the English; but he never was
+in league with England against his own country, and his uncle the
+Constable Richemont regarded him as the honour and hope of his house. His
+wife Françoise was the most beautiful and accomplished woman of her time,
+the "perle de noblesse, de gentilesse, et de savoir;" and moreover
+possessed of the rich inheritance of her uncle Bertrand de Dinan, of the
+Montafilant branch. She had been betrothed from her infancy to the Sire de
+Gavre, son of Guy, Comte de Laval; but her father died when she was only
+eight years old, and Gilles de Bretagne carried her off by force.
+Dissatisfied with his paternal inheritance, the lordship of Champtocé, he
+retired to Guildo, one of the châteaux of Françoise’s dower, where he
+passed his time in company with his English archers. His withdrawal from
+court was represented to Duke Francis as the beginning of a revolt, by
+Arthur de Montauban, his bitterest enemy and a great favourite of the
+Duke. Gilles neglected his young wife, and she is reported, in an
+unguarded moment, to have said to Montauban, she would marry him "if her
+husband were to die." Duke Francis was determined to get rid of his
+brother, and Charles VII. was persuaded to assist him in his vile design.
+The King arrested Gilles on the charge of high treason, as being in
+correspondence with the English; and, in proof of the charge, his enemies
+produced forged letters from the King of England compromising the loyalty
+of Gilles. Charles gave him over to his brother for punishment. In vain
+were Gilles’s supplications to the Duke, or the entreaties of the
+Constable, who went to Dinan and knelt to Francis to beg for the pardon of
+his brother. Equally fruitless his being acquitted at Rédon, from there
+being no proof of his guilt. The unfortunate Gilles was dragged from
+prison to prison, and consigned to keepers destitute of every feeling of
+humanity.  Montauban, an Italian by descent (his mother was a Visconti),
+sent for poison from Lombardy, and administered in his soup a strong dose,
+which the good constitution of Gilles enabled him to resist. Starvation
+was then tried, and the wretched Gilles would stand at his prison window,
+calling on the passers by to give him bread: "Du pain, du pain pour
+l’amour de Dieu," but no one ventured to relieve him. At last, a poor
+woman dared to give him food, and placed a loaf on the edge of his grated
+window, continuing for six months to share with him in secret her scanty
+meal of black bread. Seeing that he could hold out no longer and that his
+death was determined upon, Gilles begged the woman would fetch him a
+minister of religion, that he might confess before he died. By stealth she
+brought him a Cordelier monk, who confessed him across the bars of his
+prison, and Gilles adjured him to seek his brother and acquaint him with
+his pitiable condition. The monk started on his errand, but in the mean
+time the gaolers of Gilles determined on putting an end to his life. They
+twisted a cloth round his neck, and smothered him between two mattresses
+while he slept. The monks of Bosquen carried his body to their abbey for
+interment, and the wooden effigy that was placed over his grave is still
+preserved in the Museum at St. Brieuc. The monk who had received Gilles’s
+confession went in quest of Duke Francis, who, on hearing of his brother’s
+death when at Avranches, had left for Saint Michel. The monk met him on
+the Grève, and cited him in the name of his brother "de la part du Messire
+Gilles" to appear within fifty days at the tribunal of Heaven to answer
+for his murder. The menace was realised. Duke Francis died within the
+appointed time, struck with remorse, and terrified at the summons of the
+Cordelier. The monk was never seen again. On the death of Gilles, the Duke
+of Brittany himself wished to marry Françoise, but she would not listen to
+his proposals; and at last was obliged, in order to recover her liberty,
+to marry the aged Comte de Laval, father of her betrothed, with whom she
+lived peacefully thirty years, and had three sons. Duke Francis II.
+appointed her to the charge of rearing his daughter Anne.
+
+Arthur Montauban turned monk to avoid the vengeance of Duke Peter, brother
+of Gilles, and eventually became Archbishop of Bordeaux. The Pope gave him
+the Abbey of Rédon, but popular indignation prevented him from accepting
+the appointment.
+
+On our return from Montafilant we stopped to visit the Lunatic Asylum
+(Asile des aliénés), called Les Bas Foins, kept by the brothers of
+Saint-Jean-de-Dieu. There are six hundred inmates under the charge of
+about sixty brethren. The buildings, with the chapel, are very handsome
+and most complete in all the arrangements. Within the enclosure is a large
+piece of land. The lunatics are employed in agricultural, garden, and
+house occupations; they look very contented and happy. Visitors are not
+allowed to speak to them. We omitted seeing the Croix du Saint Esprit, a
+curiously sculptured Gothic granite cross of the fourteenth century, not
+far from the asylum.
+
+The castle of Dinan is now a prison. It was occupied by the Queen-Duchess
+Anne, when on her way to a pilgrimage to Notre Dame-du-Folgoët, in
+fulfilment of a vow made during the illness of Louis XII. In the chapel is
+shewn a sculptured seat, still called the arm-chair of the Duchess Anne.
+Within these walls were crammed, in the last century, about 2000 English
+prisoners of war, many of whom fell victims to a contagious fever. From
+the platform of the keep we had a magnificent view of the surrounding
+country, extending to Mont Dol and the sea.
+
+The church of St. Sauveur has a richly sculptured Romanesque portal. It
+contains the heart of Du Guesclin, transferred from the church of the
+Dominicans, where he desired it to be interred by the side of his wife
+Tiphaine. His body was buried at St. Denis, in a tomb King Charles V.
+caused to be made in his lifetime, and he left orders that on his death
+his Constable should repose at his feet. On the dark-coloured monumental
+stone now incrusted on the wall, are roughly sculptured his arms (an eagle
+displayed charged with a cotice(3)), with a commemorative inscription in
+gold letters:—
+
+
+    “Cy: gist: le cueur: de
+    Missire: bertram: du gueaquī
+    en: son vivāt: conētiable de
+    france: qui: trepassa: le: xiii^e
+    jour: de: jullet: l’an: mil iii^e
+    IIII^xx dont: son: corps: repos
+    avecques: ceulx: des: Roys
+    a sainct: denis en France.”
+
+
+Above hangs a painting representing the Governor of Châteauneuf Randon,
+laying the keys of the town upon the dead body of the Constable.(4)
+
+[Illustration: 13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.]
+
+Many of the streets of Dinan preserve the character of the Middle Ages,
+the houses upon columns forming a kind of porch or covered way; and most
+curious of all is the dirty, steep, narrow, winding street, called the Rue
+de Jerzual, a ravine extending from the top of the town, in one pitch, to
+the river’s edge. The Museum at the Mairie has an interesting collection
+of tumulary slabs—recumbent figures taken from different churches and
+abbeys, mostly from the Beaumanoir chapel of the Abbey of Lehon. There is
+one of Jean de Beaumanoir, son of the hero of the "Combat des Trente,"
+treacherously slain by his steward. He is represented in full armour, but
+with his head bare, to indicate the manner of his death. The effigy of his
+wife is also in complete armour, but on the belt that encircles her waist,
+like those worn by the knights, is sculptured a wreath of roses. She was a
+Du Guesclin by birth, and her feet repose upon an eagle, the bearing of
+her house. The statue of Roland, Vicomte de Dinan, one of the nine great
+Barons of Brittany in the twelfth century, is of gigantic proportions; the
+warrior is clad from head to foot in chain mail, but he holds one of his
+gauntlets in his hand. In the Museum is also a clock given to the city of
+Dinan by the Duchess Anne, inscribed with the name of its maker and the
+date of its construction: "1498, à Nantes par M. Hainzer de cette ville."
+The ancient bronze standard measures (étalons) of Dinan are decorated with
+the arms of the City, and Gothic inscriptions in relief, "Cart (quart) à
+gros blé pour Dinan"—"Cart à fourmant (froment) pour Dinan"—and "Bouesceau
+à scel (boisseau à sel) pour Dinan." Portraits of Du Guesclin and other
+Breton worthies are in one of the rooms (Salle de l’Odéon). That of the
+Constable answers to the description given of his appearance. He was low
+in stature, with large Breton head, broad shoulders, long arms, and large
+hands. His eyes were green, and his complexion swarthy: "la peau noire
+comme un sanglier."
+
+[Illustration: 14. Château of La Bellière.]
+
+The drives round Dinan are endless in variety,(5) and all beautiful. We
+took a carriage to see the Château of la Bellière, about five miles and a
+half from Dinan, formerly the residence of Du Guesclin’s wife, the
+celebrated Lady Tiphaine; her name answers probably to our English
+Tiffany:—
+
+
+    “William de Coningsby—
+    Came out of Brittany
+    With his wife Tiffany
+    And her maid Manifas
+    And his doggs Hardigras.”
+
+
+[Illustration: 15. Chimney. Château of La Bellière.]
+
+The Lady Tiphaine was heiress and daughter of the Vicomte de Bellière; so
+deeply versed was she in astrology, she was called Tiphaine la Fée. During
+her husband’s absence in Spain, she resided at Mont Saint Michel, having
+chosen this insulated spot for the facilities it afforded her of studying
+the stars. She gave Du Guesclin a calendar on vellum, containing verses at
+the beginning of each month, pointing out the lucky and unlucky days; how
+many she marked down as such, we know not. Tycho Brahe had thirty-two
+fatal days in his calendar. Had Du Guesclin consulted this precious
+volume, which is now preserved in the Library at Avranches, he would never
+have risked his fortune by fighting the battle of Auray on the Feast of
+St. Michel, one of the fatal days against which she specially warns him in
+her book. We wished to have seen the room where she died, and where many
+memorials of her are preserved; but the proprietor was at his déjeuner,
+and would not grant us admittance, so we were forced to be content with
+seeing the exterior of the house, a château of the end of the fourteenth
+century. It stands on the edge of a large sheet of water, in the midst of
+trees on the roadside between Dinan and St. Malo. Its principal
+characteristics are its tall octagonal chimney-shafts, composed of
+granite, brick, and slate.  They are surmounted by pieces of slate placed
+edgeways and forming a kind of capital or coronet to the granite shaft.
+Some of the chimneys have two circles of these coronets, and others are
+enriched with little rows of arches, of which the sombre slate background
+throws out the delicate ornamentation. Recrossing the magnificent viaduct,
+we proceeded to visit the Benedictine Priory of Lehon, called in the
+country "Chapelle des Beaumanoirs" from the mortuary chapel of that family
+attached to the abbey:—
+
+
+    “Beaumanoir! à ce nom de glorieux prodiges
+    Des siècles écoulés réveillent les prestiges:
+    La pierre des tombeaux a paru se mouvoir
+    Et des trente Bretons les clameurs belliqueuses
+    Semblent répondre, sous ces voûtes fameuses,
+    A ce grand nom de Beaumanoir.” —AUBRY.
+
+
+The west front, with its round-arched portal surmounted by a large Gothic
+window, is very pretty. The chapel of the Beaumanoirs was ravaged at the
+Revolution, the lead of the coffins sold, and the bones scattered. The
+statues have since been removed to the Museum at Dinan, and the crypt
+beneath, where they were buried, is inaccessible. At the Revolution, when
+the monks were expelled, the priory was sold and used for a spinning
+factory; and the weight of the machines crushed the floors, so as to shut
+up the entrance to the vaults. In the parish church adjacent, is to be
+noticed an ancient baptismal font, of cylindrical form, sculptured within
+and without. We returned home by the Château du Chêne-Ferron, approached
+by an avenue of firs, and had a lovely drive along the banks of the Rance.
+
+Our last excursion in Dinan was to the Château of La Garaye, rendered
+famous by the virtues and boundless charity of its last proprietors, Count
+Claude Toussaint Marot de la Garaye and his wife, whose interesting story
+is told in the charming poem of Mrs. Norton:—
+
+
+    “Listen to the tale I tell,
+    Grave the story is—not sad,
+    And the peasant plodding by
+    Greets the place with kindly eye,
+    For the inmates that it had.”
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+Count Claude de la Garaye and his wife were young, beautiful, and endowed
+with friends, riches, and all that could make life bright and happy. They
+entertained with hospitality, and enjoyed the pleasures and amusements of
+the world; when one day the Countess was thrown from her horse, the
+expectations of an heir vanished, and she was left a cripple for life.
+Both were inconsolable for their disappointment. One day a monk came to
+visit them, and tried to comfort them, seeking by his converse to turn
+their thoughts from earthly affections to heavenly consolation—
+
+"Ah! my father," said the lady, "how happy are you, to love nothing on
+earth!"
+
+"You are mistaken," answered the monk; "I love all those who are in sorrow
+or suffering, and I submit myself to the will of the Almighty, and bend
+myself with resignation to every blow He strikes."
+
+He proceeded to show them there was still great happiness in store for
+them, in ministering to the comforts of others. Following his counsel,
+they went to Paris; for three years the Count studied medicine and
+surgery, and his wife became a skilful oculist. On their return to La
+Garaye, they gave up all the amusements of society, and devoted themselves
+to relieving the sufferings of their fellow creatures. Their house was
+converted into an hospital for the sick and the wounded, under the
+ministering care of the Count and his benevolent wife:—
+
+
+    “Her home is made their home; her wealth their dole;
+    Her busy courtyard hears no more the roll
+    Of gilded vehicles, or pawing steeds,
+    But feeble steps of those whose bitter needs
+    Are their sole passport. Through that gateway pass
+    All varying forms of sickness and distress,
+    And many a poor worn face that hath not smiled
+    For years,—and many a feeble crippled child,—
+    Blesses the tall, white portal where they stand,
+    And the dear Lady of the liberal hand.”
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+Nor was their philanthropy confined to their own province. In 1720, they
+offered themselves to M. de Belzunce—"Marseilles’ good bishop"—to assist
+him during the visitation of the Plague. The fame of their virtues reached
+even the French Court, and Louis XV. sent Count de la Garaye the order of
+St. Lazarus with a donation of 50,000 livres and a contract on the post of
+25,000 more.
+
+They both died at an advanced age, within two years of each other, and
+were buried among their poor at Taden, but their marble mausoleum in the
+church was destroyed in the French Revolution. Count de la Garaye(6) left
+a large sum to be distributed among the prisoners, principally English, at
+Rennes and Dinan, who were suffering pent up in these crowded gaols. The
+Comte had attended the English prisoners at Dinan during a contagious
+fever, called the "peste blanche," and, in acknowledgment of his humanity,
+Queen Caroline sent him two dogs with silver collars round their necks,
+and an English nobleman made him a present of six more.
+
+[Illustration: 16. Château of La Garaye.]
+
+The ruined château is approached by an ivy-covered gateway, through an
+avenue of beeches:—
+
+
+    “Le lierre flottant comme un manteau de deuil,
+    Couvre à demi la porte et rampe sur le seuil.”
+                    LAMARTINE, _Harmonies Poëtiques_.
+
+
+or, as Mrs. Norton renders it:—
+
+
+    “And like a mourner’s mantle, with sad grace,
+    Waves the dark ivy—hiding half the door
+    And threshold, where the weary traveller’s foot
+    Shall never find a courteous welcome more.”
+
+
+It is fast falling to pieces. The principal part remaining is an octagonal
+turret of three stories, with elegant Renaissance decoration round the
+windows. One more quotation from Mrs. Norton, and we quit these hallowed
+ruins:—
+
+
+    “We know the healthy stir of human life
+    Must be for ever gone!
+    The walls where hung the warrior’s shining casque
+    Are green with moss and mould;
+    The blindworm coils where Queens have slept, nor asks
+    For shelter from the cold.
+    The swallow,—he is master all the day,
+    And the great owl is ruler through the night;
+    The little bat wheels on his circling way,
+    With restless flittering flight;
+    And that small bat, and the creeping things,
+    At will they come and go,
+    And the soft white owl with velvet wings,
+    And a shout of human woe!
+    The brambles let no footsteps pass
+    By that rent in the broken stair,
+    When the pale tufts of the windle-strae grass
+    Hang like locks of dry dead hair;
+    But there the keen sound ever sweeps and moans,
+    “Working a passage through the mouldering stones.”
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+From Dinan, instead of taking the customary road to the railway station of
+Caulnes, we hired a carriage, in order to visit the fortress castle of La
+Hunaudaye, midway between Dinan and Lamballe. The road lay by Jugon, a
+town prettily situated in the cleft of two hills. On one once stood an
+important castle, which gave rise to the saying:—
+
+
+    “Qui a Bretagne sans Jugon,
+    A chape sans chaperon.”
+
+
+Jugon is on the edge of two ponds. One of them, the largest in Brittany,
+hangs suspended over the town, as if threatening it with inundation. They
+told us it was swarming with fish of every description, and with pike of
+fabulous dimensions. Turning off the road to the right, we entered the
+forest of La Hunaudaye, and walked in a pouring rain to the château,
+situated a short distance from the road. It is of vast extent, has five
+round towers with ramparts of cut stone, and is surrounded by walls with
+machicolated parapets. It is a splendid ruin, but the incessant rain
+prevented us from spending much time in its examination. It was built in
+the thirteenth century by Olivier de la Tournemine, and was one of the
+strongest fortresses in Brittany. Situated in the midst of a vast forest,
+its lord and his retainers were the terror of the surrounding country. No
+traveller passed untaxed; all were compelled to pay toll. In 1504, the
+Bishop of St. Brieuc complains to the Parliament at Rennes that,
+regardless of the safeguard of the Duke, the foresters of the Lord of La
+Hunaudaye had carried off his horses, trunks, and baggage, and, a year
+later, they had the audacity to stop the Queen-Duchess Anne on her way to
+a pilgrimage to the Folgoët. The Queen was conducted to the presence of
+the Lord of La Hunaudaye, who maintained to her that he had only exercised
+his right of exacting a ransom from all who passed through the forest
+without his permission, but that he waived his privilege in favour of his
+Sovereign. Be that as it may, he received her Majesty most royally, as the
+old chaplain, Oliver de la Roche recounts, and gave a splendid banquet,
+which he fully describes. The table, he says, was four times covered with
+thirty-six dishes of viands, and lastly, was brought in, "en grande
+vénération," by eight squires, a whole calf, standing on its legs, well
+seasoned, with an orange in its mouth; and, when it appeared, the trumpets
+sounded so loud that it seemed as if the walls shook. On seeing the
+"dainty dish" that was "set before the Queen," all wished to have a share;
+and the chaplain relates, with great satisfaction, how he was served
+himself twice by the Lord of La Hunaudaye.
+
+The dark deeds of the lords of La Hunaudaye have given rise to many a
+legend. The following is a translation of one of the most popular:—
+
+
+    LEGEND OF LA HUNAUDAYE.
+        _(Translation.)_
+
+    “When the rock eagle wakes,
+    And the towers of Hunaudaye
+    Gleam like three phantom forms
+    In the morning’s sunlight ray;
+    When night her darksome wing
+    Folds round this desert waste,
+    Shun all this cursed ground—
+    Traveller flee thou in haste.
+
+    “There once—Great Heaven shield
+    Us all! and no ill arise—
+    There once—Hush! leave me not;
+    Hear you, from the ground, low sighs?—
+    There once—wrapped in the gloom
+    Of a dark and rainy night,
+    A man of haughty mien
+    Knocked at the door of might.
+
+    “’Open!’ cried he,—it turns
+    On groaning hinge. The rain
+    Pours, but the frightened guards
+    Mark neither spot nor stain
+    On his purple cloak—nor his plumes
+    Droop wet, yet the torrents fall
+    Wildly and fast to night,
+    Beating the castle wall.
+
+    “The baron, stern and sad,
+    Was in his tower alone,
+    Pacing, with mailed heel,
+    Upon the echoing stone:
+    Cried he—’What stranger seeks,
+    This hour, my castle drear?
+    Ho! Oliver, Ho! Ralph,
+    See who intrudeth here.’
+
+    “’Heaven shield thee, baron brave!
+    A strange knight in the hall
+    Craves audience.’ ’Lead him here:
+    Stay thou and Ralph in call,
+    At need.’ Silent and slow
+    The purple-mantled knight,
+    Advancing, paused—his looks
+    Gleaming unearthly bright.
+
+    “’Who art thou coming thus,
+    Loud clamouring at my gate,
+    Thou truly puissant knight,
+    With not one squire for state?
+    Knowst thou at word of mine—’
+    The stranger knight smiled stern,
+    Replied in awful voice,
+    ’Would’st thou my name? now learn:
+    Here is my train—behold!’
+    He cried. There hideous stood
+    One spectre, then two more—
+    A sight to chill the blood—
+    Unveiled their features pale,
+    All three in cere-cloth dressed,
+    Opening all wide to point
+    Where blood flowed from the breast.
+
+    “’Baron, these are my guard,’
+    Said the unknown—’Here, lo!
+    Thy father’s aged form,
+    By poignard stroke laid low;
+    Here thy wife, cruelly slain
+    In the year thy brother fell;
+    They stand, pale, bleeding, stiff,—
+    Their murderer, can’st thou tell?’
+
+    “The phantoms three enlaced
+    The trembling baron round;
+    He vainly shrieked,—the walls
+    With demon laughs resound;
+    The echoing thunders rolled
+    Along the valley deep;
+    Lightnings, when pale dawn broke,
+    Blasted the castle keep.
+
+    “It stands a blackened pile;
+    The ruined gate is there.
+    But the sky lowers dark,
+    Oh! traveller flee, beware;
+    At this hour the shades of night
+    Brood o’er the solemn gloom.
+    Traveller, haste, oh! haste;
+    Leave this abode of doom.”
+
+
+It was in the forest of La Hunaudaye that the Chouans of the Côtes du Nord
+were secretly exercised and drilled by their chief, La Rouërie, under the
+name of Gosselin, who died of horror on hearing of the execution of
+thirteen of his confederates betrayed by the physician Chaftal. Gosselin
+was succeeded by the "Cid" of the Chouan chiefs, Boishardy, called the
+"Sorcier," who, after his interview with General Humbert, was betrayed and
+shot by the "Bleus." For twelve years was Brittany cut off from France by
+this Chouan war, an insurrection even more formidable than that of La
+Vendée. The peninsular position of Brittany, its vast extent of coasts,
+its forests, its mountains, its people, speaking a strange language,
+entirely under the subjection of the priests, rendered it peculiarly
+adapted to carry on a war against the republicans; a war, the whole object
+of which was to upset all order, by preventing the citizens from accepting
+office under the republic, by punishing those who acquired national
+property, by stopping couriers and all public conveyances, destroying
+bridges, breaking up roads, assassinating public officers, and executing
+horrible punishments on those who sent provisions into the towns.
+
+The castle of La Hunaudaye was destroyed by order of the Commune of
+Lamballe, in 1793, that it might not serve as a retreat for the Chouans.
+
+We arrived very wet at Lamballe, a town most picturesquely situated on the
+declivity of a granite cliff, surmounted by a handsome church, rising from
+the very edge of the rocks. It formed part of the territory of the Duke of
+Penthièvre, whose heiress, Jeanne la Boiteuse, married Charles of Blois,
+the competitor with John de Montfort(7) for the dukedom of Brittany. More
+tenacious of her rights than her husband, Jeanne would never listen to any
+compromise. After the treaty of Bretigny, the kings of England and France
+proposed a division of the duchy between the two rivals; but, intimidated
+by his wife, Charles dared not consent; and again, before the battle of
+Auray, when a division was agreed upon, subject to the acceptance of the
+Countess, Jeanne exclaimed, "My husband makes too cheap a bargain of what
+is not his own." And she wrote to Charles, "Do what you please. I am a
+woman, and cannot do more; but I had rather lose my life, or two if I had
+them, before I would consent to so reproachable an act, to the shame of my
+family" (_des miens_). Later she said to him, "Preserve me your heart, but
+preserve me also my duchy, and, happen what may, act so that the
+sovereignty remains to me entire." Her pride and obstinacy cost her
+husband his life. The name of Lamballe is associated with the memory of
+the unfortunate Princesse de Savoie de Carignan, the sad victim of
+revolutionary fury. On the death of her husband, the Prince de Lamballe,
+the vast estates of the Penthièvre family passed to his sister, the wife
+of Philippe Egalité, and from her descended to Louis Philippe, King of the
+French.
+
+[Illustration: 17. Section of Lanleff Church.]
+
+Next day we made an excursion to the famed Temple of Lanleff, in Breton,
+the "land of tears," situated in a retired valley about six miles from the
+sea. According to the tradition of the country, it was built by "Les
+moines rouges," as they style the Templar Knights. The road was
+incessantly up and down hill, as we afterwards found they are throughout
+Brittany; a "pays accidenté" it may be truly called. The chapel of Lanleff
+is composed of two concentric circular enclosures separated by twelve
+round arches, with cushion-shaped capitals, having heads, human and
+animal, rudely sculptured upon them at the four angles. Its whole diameter
+is about twenty-two feet. It was probably built by some Templar Knight in
+the beginning of the twelfth century on his return from the Holy Land. The
+number of arches may allude to that of the twelve Apostles.
+
+[Illustration: 18. Plan of Lanleff Church.]
+
+The parish church was built into the east side of the temple, the only
+part which has preserved its roof, and which served as a vestibule to the
+more modern building. A gigantic yew formerly grew in the central
+enclosure, and overshadowed it with its spreading branches; but the parish
+church has been taken down and rebuilt in another part of the village, and
+the yew-tree has disappeared.
+
+Close to the temple is a spring enclosed by flagstones. When moistened,
+they appear covered with blood-stained spots. According to the tradition,
+in olden times an unnatural father sold his child to the Evil One. The
+gold received for the bargain was counted out upon the side of the spring,
+and the accursed money left its print upon the stones. A bare-legged
+peasant who stood by with her pitcher, threw some water over the stones,
+and immediately there appeared round red spots of different
+sizes—indelible marks of the diabolical bargain. We went into a cottage
+close by, and had some boiled eggs and cider. The inmates were at their
+meal—a bowl of milk, into which they broke their buckwheat "galette." We
+were much struck with the jealous pertinacity of the Breton, to show he
+considers himself as of a different people and country to the rest of
+France, a feeling which more than three hundred years has not dissipated.
+Our driver would talk of Bretons and French as of distinct nations, and
+the Normans in this part of Brittany are the special objects of hatred,
+originating, perhaps, in the former subjection of Brittany to Normandy.
+When Charles the Simple ceded to the fierce Northmen the province now
+known by their name, their sovereignty extended over Brittany, and the
+dukes of Normandy did homage for both provinces to the King of France. The
+Bretons struggled hard against the supremacy of the Barbarians, but
+eventually had to acknowledge the Duke of Normandy as their sovereign
+lord.
+
+St. Brieuc, principal town of the department of the Côtes-du-Nord, has
+been described as an old town with a new face. Though one of the oldest in
+Brittany, it has little of antiquity to detain the traveller. The Palais
+de Justice is a handsome building, in the midst of a pretty garden,
+commanding a view of the Tour de Cesson, lower down the river (the Gouët),
+a large circular tower built by Duke John IV., and blown up by Henry IV.,
+at the desire of the Briochins, as the inhabitants of St. Brieuc style
+themselves. The mine split it in two, and the part that remains serves as
+a landmark for the pilots between St. Brieuc and its port, about two miles
+distant, called Légué. Notre Dame d’Espérance is a pretty church, rebuilt
+about ten years since, with a calvary in front, and a series of painted
+windows representing the principal saints of Brittany, and the most
+celebrated pilgrimages of the Virgin in that province. At St. Brieuc,
+1689, James II. of England reviewed his little army, and was received with
+royal honours by the bishop of the place.
+
+We proceeded by the railway to Guingamp, next to St. Brieuc, the principal
+town of the department, capital of the duchy of Penthièvre. It is situated
+in the richly wooded and cultivated valley of the Trieux, a favourite
+fishing river of considerable size, and affording trout, salmon, and dace,
+from Guingamp to Paimpol, where it falls into the sea, a distance of
+twenty miles. It runs through the centre of the town, and is here a
+considerable stream.
+
+Attached to the Cathedral is the venerated sanctuary of Notre
+Dame-du-Bon-Secours, one of the most celebrated places of pilgrimage in
+Brittany. The pardon takes place the Saturday before the first Sunday in
+July, and owes its origin to the brotherhood called the "Frérie blanche,"
+an association of which Duke Peter accepted the title of lay-abbot. The
+motto embroidered on their banner was (in Breton) "A triple cord is not
+easily broken." The triple cord being emblematic of the three
+estates—clergy, nobles, and laity—in whose unity consisted the strength of
+Brittany. The Frérie blanche no longer exists, the triple cable is broken,
+the pilgrimage alone remains.
+
+[Illustration: 19. Fountain of Duke Peter.]
+
+La Pompe, or the fountain of Duke Peter, as it is called, is of later
+dater date, being in the style of the Renaissance. It consists of three
+circular basins in tiers. On the lower are sea-horses, which, with their
+wings, support the second basin, and Naiads uphold the third. On the top
+is a figure of the Virgin with her arms extended.
+
+The women of Guingamp wear high muslin caps, dark petticoats, and black
+stockings. Knitting-pins in hand, they work away at their stockings
+whether walking, talking, or with a load of butter on their heads, as they
+do throughout all Brittany. When not at work, their knitting-pins are
+stuck in their hair. Knitting and spinning are the occupation of their
+lives. When the Breton’s idol, Du Guesclin, was a prisoner to the Black
+Prince, and was asked how he could raise the large sum named for his
+ransom, Du Guesclin replied, that "the women of Brittany would rather spin
+for a year and ransom him with their distaffs, than that he should remain
+prisoner."
+
+
+    “Quand vous étiez captif, Bertrand, fils de Bretagne,
+    Tous les fuseaux tournaient aussi dans la campagne;
+    Chaque femme apporte son écheveau de lin;
+    Ce fut votre rançon, messire Du Guesclin!”
+                    _Les Bretons_, A. BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Guingamp was given by Duke John V. to his son Peter, who resided here and
+rebuilt the castle. When attacked by his mortal illness, the physicians
+attributed his malady to witchcraft, and declared it could only be
+remedied by counter-spells. The Prince refused to have recourse to such
+means, saying, "I had rather die by the will of God, than live by the will
+of the Devil."—"J’aime mieux mourir de par Dieu, que de vivre de par le
+Diable."
+
+We walked to the small chapel of St. Léonard, picturesquely situated on a
+little eminence. It was built by Charles of Blois, on his return from his
+captivity in England, and dedicated by him to St. Léonard, the
+patron-saint of prisoners—a contemporary of Clovis, from whom he obtained
+permission to set free all the captives he should find in the prisons. In
+the month of May, people who are attacked with fever repair to St. Léonard
+to seek, upon the walls of the chapel or on the calvary attached to it,
+snails as cures for their malady. They must gather them themselves, pound
+them, and put them into little bags, which they wear round their necks. As
+soon as the fever leaves them they bury their bags at the foot of the
+walls of the chapel, and, if they fail to perform this ceremony, the fever
+will return. We found quantities of these bags, made of coarse linen,
+lying half-buried under the walls of the chapel. There is a pardon here
+every year, on which occasion only the chapel is opened.
+
+We took a carriage to Paimpol. On our way we stopped at the Château de
+Boisgelin, belonging to the Marquis of the same name, but could not obtain
+admittance. On to the Abbey of Beauport (Sancta Maria de Bello Porto),
+founded in the thirteenth century, beautifully situated on a tongue of
+land at the entrance of the Bay of Paimpol, opposite the island of
+Saint-Rion. In its large garden, which extends down to the sea, are
+planted myrtles, figs, mulberries, and other trees of the south of Europe.
+Beauport has been called the Chartreuse of Brittany. It is a lovely
+secluded spot, as, indeed, are most of the sites of the old abbeys,
+varying in aspect, but always beautiful. No description can give an idea
+of the magnificent panoramic views from the walls of the abbey.
+
+[Illustration: 20. Abbey of Beauport.]
+
+M. Merimée justly observes, "It appears strange that, in so early a stage
+of civilisation, the monks should be so alive to the beauties of nature.
+The contemplative habits of monastic life must at all times have imparted
+to the mind a feeling of abstract beauty, independent of any idea of real
+utility. Secure of an uniform, peaceful existence, limited in his
+pleasures and his ambition, sheltered by his sacred office, above others,
+from the reverses of fortune, the monk of the thirteenth century was in a
+position to love, and did love, beauty for itself. And while the knight,
+at war with all the world, thought only on building an impregnable
+fortress, the abbot embellished his dwelling, and tasted the enjoyments
+afforded by imagination and the arts. "The abbey of Beauport is built in
+the pointed style, and is a perfect example of the monastic architecture
+of the thirteenth century—the most important and most beautiful convent
+ruins in Brittany. The original disposition of its buildings may yet be
+clearly traced. These abbeys were all built upon the same plan. In the
+centre was the square garden (préau), surrounded by the cloisters. On the
+south side the church, extending from west to east; on the north, the
+refectory, with the kitchen attached. On the east was the chapter-house,
+and some small apartments; above these were the dormitories. Outside was
+the interior court, reserved for the brethren, and beyond, the great
+court, into which the provisions were brought, and round which were the
+stables and farm buildings. The garden, orchard, mill, oven, dovecote,
+cider-press, &c., were all within the walled enclosure, for the abbeys
+were not merely convents dedicated solely to devotional exercises. After
+prayer followed labour. The Breton abbeys were quite model farms; the
+woods and the commons afforded the means of rearing cattle to those who
+had the privilege of pasturage in the forests. Many had also the right of
+acorns and beech-mast for their pigs (_droit au gland et à la faîne_). One
+abbey, that of Morimond (Haute Marne), is recorded to have had twenty
+piggeries, of three hundred pigs each, distributed in its forests. The
+monks also reared sheep and horses, and fattened fish in their ponds. They
+were the first who advanced the science of horticulture and the
+cultivation of vegetables. To these agricultural pursuits were added, in
+many convents, the industrial arts, and some of the brethren were brewers,
+curriers, fullers, weavers, shoemakers, carpenters, and blacksmiths. Their
+cultivation of the liberal arts and sciences is well known. During the
+Middle Ages the monasteries were the sole depositories of learning.
+Beauport is now occupied by a Polish lady, Countess Poninsky, who allows
+no one to enter the abbey, as her husband was buried in the church.
+
+Two or three miles further we reached Paimpol, where we remained the
+night, at a nice hotel. Paimpol is a seaport town prettily situated in a
+cultivated country on the bay that bears its name. Its inhabitants are
+employed in the mackerel and Iceland fisheries. The women about here wear
+close straw-bonnets. They all, in this department, ride on horseback, "à
+califourchon," like the men.
+
+We hired our carriage on to Tréguier. At Lézardrieux we passed the estuary
+of the Trieux, over a magnificent suspension-bridge, at a considerable
+elevation above the water, vessels sail under it. It was built 1840, and
+is 833 feet long, that is, 167 longer than the famed bridge of La Roche
+Bernard (Loire Inférieure). The bridge swung frightfully when we passed
+over it. In the churchyard of Pleudaniel is a pretty granite calvary, and
+skulls are placed in recesses in the wall on each side of the
+church-porch.
+
+We next came to the Château of La Roche Jagu, on the summit of a hill
+overhanging the river Trieux and defending the entrance. It has more of
+the character of a "maison forte" than of a "manoir," as was termed the
+habitation of a knight, and of those who holding a fief, yet did not
+possess the seignorial right to a castle with towers and donjon. The
+manoir might be enclosed by walls and moats, but not with towers. The
+entrance on the side opposite to the river is through a large walled court
+by a low Gothic doorway, closed by an enormous iron grating of upright and
+horizontal bars of great thickness, hanging on four hinges, and secured by
+four locks; all the windows have gratings of the same kind. A stone
+staircase leads to the one story, consisting of a suite of large rooms
+half lighted by narrow windows. Some of these are occupied by the keeper
+of the castle and others are reserved for the use of the proprietor, the
+Marquis d’Argentré, and, when he goes there, are decorated and partly
+furnished with the pieces of old tapestry lying about. At the end of these
+rooms is a turret, which communicates with a covered gallery surmounting
+the whole length of the façade facing the river, and commanding a
+beautiful view of the windings of the silvery Trieux and of its
+fir-clothed banks. This gallery is furnished with battlements, and served
+the double purpose of a rampart and an observatory. The wall on the
+river-side is fifteen feet thick, and a chapel hewn in the thickness of
+the wall is lighted by a Gothic window looking over the Trieux. Fourteen
+elegant chimney-shafts of cut stone, cylindrical in form, and ornamented
+with iron spikes, give a most original character to the building. The
+château belonged to the Maréchal Duc de Richelieu, who sold it in 1773 to
+the Tressan family, under the stipulation that its subterranean passages
+should not be explored. They are said to extend under the bed of the river
+to the Château of Frinandour, half a league distant.
+
+We next passed through Pontrieux, a pretty, small town, seated in a deep
+valley, the river Trieux flowing through it. The river here is famous for
+salmon, and there is a considerable commerce in its little port.
+
+La Roche-Derrien on the Jaudy, during the War of Succession in Brittany,
+was a castle of some celebrity. It was here Charles of Blois was taken
+prisoner by the English, who, under Sir Thomas Dagworth, were in
+possession of the place. Charles of Blois assembled a large army, and
+attacked them by night. Three times was he rescued, and three times
+retaken; he had received eighteen wounds, and was at last compelled to
+surrender. Jeanne de Montfort, like all women who hate, was very
+vindictive, and caused her illustrious prisoner to be ignominiously
+dragged to Quimperlé, Vannes, and Hennebont, whence he was transferred to
+London, and confined in the Tower. It was nine years before he regained
+his liberty.  Meanwhile his heroic wife, Jeanne de Penthièvre, became head
+of his party, as Jeanne de Flandre was that of the De Montfort. The "War
+of the two Jeannes" continued for nine years, during which they fought
+with fierceness and courage, and ruled with ability. Curious,—the history
+of France was illustrated in this century by five heroines of the name of
+Jeanne: Jeanne d’Arc, Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais, and the Jeannes of
+Penthièvre, Flandre, and Clisson, who made themselves famous in Brittany.
+On his release, Charles of Blois gave La Roche-Derrien to Du Guesclin.
+The castle was demolished, but a calvary has been built on the site.
+
+Not far from La Roche-Derrien is the church of Langoat, which contains the
+monument of Ste. Pompée (1370), mother of St. Tugdual. On the granite tomb
+reposes her marble effigy, and around it bas-reliefs in Gothic niches
+represent the life of the saint. In all the churches in this district,
+tressels are placed in the nave ready for funerals. The gravestones have
+in each a little hollow well, to contain water for sprinkling over the
+grave, or in some a small basin is set upon the gravestone, with a sprig
+of box laid by the side, for the same pious purpose.
+
+Every one must be struck by the excellence of the roads in Brittany, as
+indeed throughout France; in no instance does the French administrative
+talent more fully display itself. The roads are of three classes: the
+"routes impériales," under the care of the Government; "départementales,"
+kept entirely at the expense of the department; and the "chemins
+vicinaux," which belong to the communes or parishes, and which all the
+inhabitants are called upon to support. To each lieue de poste (two and a
+half miles), is appointed a "cantonnier" or road-keeper, who is
+responsible for the condition of the length of road assigned to his care.
+
+We stopped at Kermartin, a farmhouse near Tréguier, to see the bed said to
+have belonged to St. Ives, the favourite saint of the Bretons, and whose
+name is borne by the majority of the inhabitants of the district of
+Tréguier and St. Brieuc. Charles of Blois held him in great veneration. He
+gave part of a rib of St. Ives to the church at Lamballe, and carried the
+relic in procession barefooted to the church. Before the battle of Auray,
+he ordered his men to march "in the name of God and St. Yves."
+
+St. Ives, or Yves Hélory, was one of the most remarkable characters of the
+thirteenth century. He studied law in the schools of Paris, and applied
+his talents in defending the cause of the poor; hence he was called "the
+poor man’s advocate;" and so great to this day is the confidence placed in
+his justice, that, in the department of the Côtes-du-Nord, when a debtor
+falsely denies his debt, a peasant will pay twenty sous for a mass to St.
+Yves, convinced that St. Yves will cause the faithless creditor to die
+within the year. His truthfulness was such, he was called St. Yves de
+Verité. He is the special patron of lawyers, and always represented in the
+"mortier," or lawyer’s cap, with an ermine-trimmed scarlet robe.
+
+
+    “Saint Yves était Breton,
+    Avocat et pas larron,
+    Chose rare, se dit-on.”
+
+
+Lawyers, says a writer, take him for a patron, but not for a model. Philip
+le Hardi, in acknowledgment of his worth, granted him a pension of six
+deniers a day—in those times a considerable sum.
+
+Over this house is a marble tablet with this inscription:—
+
+         “Ici est né le 17 Oct^r 1253, et est mort le 19 Mai 1303,
+
+                               SAINT YVES,
+
+  Officiel de Tréguier, curé de Tredretz et de Lohannec. Sa maison, qui a
+  subsisté jusqu’en l’année 1834, ayant été alors demolie à cause de
+  vetusté, Mg^r Hyacinthe Louis de Quelen, Arch^vque de Paris, et
+  propriétaire des domaines de Kermartin, a fait placer cette inscription,
+  afin qu’un lieu sanctifié par la presence d’un si grand serviteur de
+  Dieu ne demeurât pas inconnu (1837).”
+
+The house is a good specimen of a Breton dwelling; by the side of the
+fire, in the one room of which most of these cottages consist, fixed
+against the wall like the berth of a ship, stands the bedstead or "lit
+clos" of old oak, shut in by carved and well-waxed sliding panels, often
+inscribed with the sacred monogram.  The two mattresses, paillasse, and
+"cossette de plume," are piled up to such a height as barely to admit of
+its tenants creeping into the bed. In front is the customary chest,
+containing the family wardrobe, answering the double purpose of a seat and
+the means of ascending into the bed. Often we have seen cupboards on each
+side of the large chimney with two shelves, which served as beds for the
+juvenile members of the family. Forms and a polished table complete the
+furniture; the last has frequently little wells hollowed in the top, used,
+instead of plates, to hold the soup. Over the table, suspended by pulleys,
+are two indispensable articles in a Breton dwelling—a large circular
+basket to cover the bread, and a kind of wooden frame or rack, round which
+the spoons are ranged. Forks they do not use. Festoons of sausages, with
+hams, bacon, candles, skins of lard, onions, horse-shoes, harness, all
+hang suspended from the ceiling, which consists of fagots of hazel
+suspended by cross-poles. The floor is of beaten earth. One narrow window
+admits the light, and there are no outhouses. The manure-heap is generally
+at the house-door, and the pigs and poultry seem on an equally intimate
+footing as they are in our Irish cabins. The Breton’s cottage has often no
+garden, to occupy his leisure hours; and the men, after their daily work,
+resort to the cabaret to spend their time and their earnings. Agriculture
+is very backward in Brittany, but the land produces abundance of corn. It
+is thrashed out direct from the field, on a clay floor (aire). Beet-root
+and clover grow very luxuriantly, and in some fields the pretty red clover
+(_Trifolium incarnatum_) carpets the country with its crimson flowers.
+
+Near the farmhouse of Kermartin is the parish church of Minihy-Tréguier,
+formerly a chapel founded by St. Ives and attached to the "manoir." The
+will of St. Ives is framed and hung up in the church, and his breviary is
+also preserved here; but the guide said it was now kept at the priest’s
+house, as people were in the habit of taking away a leaf as a relic.
+Minihy, _i. e._ Monk’s House, is a name given to those places which,
+through the intercession of some saint, had the right of sanctuary. They
+were marked with a red cross, and, how great soever the crime, were
+regarded as inviolable. In 1441 the right of sanctuary was restricted to
+churches; before, it was extended to towns and districts. Tréguier had the
+privilege within a radius of twelve miles from the town. St. Malo also
+possessed the right of sanctuary. Tréguier is one of the four bishoprics
+that formed the ancient divisions of Brittany. The others were Léon,
+Cornouaille, and Vannes. The "pays de Tréguier" answers exactly to the
+present department of the Côtes-du-Nord; Léon to the territory or
+arrondissement of Brest and Morlaix; Cornouaille has Quimper and Carhaix
+for its principal towns; and Vannes, the country of Celtic remains, is to
+the south.
+
+Tréguier is prettily situated on a hill, at the confluence of the rivers
+Jaudy and Guindy; its principal building is the beautiful, imposing
+cathedral, with its elegant spire, begun in the thirteenth century by St.
+Yves, and dedicated to St. Tugdual, whose name, like St. Yves, is often
+given in baptism to the Breton children. St. Yves is buried here, and also
+Duke John V., who founded the Chapelle du Duc, and desired to be interred
+at the feet of St. Yves, for whom he had a special regard, and to whom he
+erected a magnificent tomb, for three centuries the object of veneration
+in Brittany. The Duke paid for it his own weight in silver (389 marks 7
+oz.), in 1424, to Maistre Jacques de Hougue. The victories of his father
+John the Conqueror were chased in bas-relief round the tomb, which was
+destroyed in 1793. Duke John V. was a contemptible prince, who eight times
+changed his party from weakness rather than policy, and on whom Margaret
+de Clisson and her sons retaliated the cowardly seizure of her father, the
+Constable Clisson, by Duke John IV. One of the towers of the cathedral is
+called the tower of Hastings, but its date is evidently subsequent to that
+of the Norman freebooter. The cathedral has preserved its beautiful
+cloisters, the work of the fifteenth century, although it has been ravaged
+by the Normans of the ninth century, the English in the fourteenth, the
+Spaniards in the sixteenth, and by the Revolutionists of 1793. It was the
+port chosen by the Constable Clisson, 1387, for the invasion of England,
+an expedition proposed and projected by himself. His hatred against the
+English was so great, though educated in England, he was termed the
+"boucher des Anglais." When the Duke of Brittany gave Chandos the château
+of Gavre, which was within a league of Clisson’s château of Blain (Loire
+Inférieure), "I will never," he exclaimed, "be the neighbour of the
+English," and accordingly he sallied out one morning and burnt the castle
+to the ground. Chandos complained to the Black Prince, who sent a letter
+of remonstrance to Clisson, but it was only replied by a challenge to the
+Prince to meet him in single combat. Clisson caused his own ship to be
+built at Tréguier, and had constructed a tower or framework of large
+timber, to be put together on his landing in England, for the lords to
+retreat to as a place of safety, and to be lodged therein securely in the
+event of a night attack. This tower, Froissart says, was so constructed,
+that when dislodged it could be taken to pieces, and many carpenters and
+other workmen were engaged, at very high wages, to go with it to England
+to superintend the putting of it together. Four thousand men-at-arms and
+2000 cross-bowmen were in readiness for the expedition, with horses,
+vessels laden with wine, salted provisions, and other necessaries. All
+these formidable preparations were rendered useless by the arrest of the
+Constable the day before his embarkation. We went to the Cemetery, which
+has its ossuary, reliquary, or bone-house, an inseparable appendage to a
+Breton churchyard. It is the custom in Brittany, after a certain time, to
+dig up the bones of the dead, and preserve their skulls in little square
+boxes, like dog-kennels, with a heart-shaped opening through which the
+skull is visible. They are all ticketed with the names and dates of the
+deceased, as "Ci gît le chef de * * * D. c. D. (décédé) le * * * * *.
+Priez Dieu pour son âme."
+
+[Illustration: 21. Skull-box.]
+
+These boxes sometimes occupy prominent places inside the churches or
+porch, on window sills, the capitals of columns, and other ledges; but
+more often are ranged in the ossuaries or charnel-houses built in the
+churchyards to receive them, with a row of death’s-heads carved in the
+stone outside. The large bones are also placed in the ossuaire. The rich
+are buried in "enfeux" or arched recesses in the chapels or abbeys they
+have founded.
+
+We continued our carriage to Lannion, our driver not very clear of his
+way, and in Brittany the road is very difficult to be discerned; for on
+each side are high earthen banks, sometimes eight or ten feet high, and on
+the top of these are planted timber-trees, such as oak, elm, and ash,
+which often meet at the top, entirely intercepting the view, making these
+narrow lanes a perfect slough and most intricate to thread. Sometimes they
+are cut in irregular steps in the solid rock, and serve for the bed of a
+stream. Each field is also surrounded by these hedgerow-trees, which are
+cut every four or five years.
+
+We drove to Perros Guirec, a lovely little watering-place built on a small
+promontory with a safe harbour, whence wheat, hemp, and cattle are
+exported to England; it is six miles from Lannion. A dangerous rock,
+called Roche Bernard, is at its entrance. The view is lovely. From Perros
+we scrambled over a hilly cart-road to Ploumanach, about three miles
+distant—a wonderful spot, huge round erratic blocks of pink granite flung
+over land and sea in the wildest confusion. The whole coast is one sea of
+boulders, a chaos of rocks of all sizes cover the soil in every direction,
+and in many places there is no soil at all, and the loose masses rest on a
+bare bed of rock, stretching, in unbroken extent, to a great distance. "A
+wanderer," says Mr. Trollope, "amid this strange and silent scene might
+fancy himself the only living thing in the midst of a world turned to
+stone. In every possible variety of uncouth form and capricious, strange
+positions, the endless masses were around us."
+
+
+    “All is rocks at random thrown,
+    Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone."”
+                    LORD OF THE ISLES.
+
+
+One rock, surrounded at high water by the tide, is a square block of red
+granite of thirty to forty feet high, placed on the top of a still higher
+mass, on which it rests upon a very small base. It is called the "Roche
+Pendue," and serves as a landmark for the fishermen. We took a small boat
+full of fish resembling codlings or small cod, called "lieu," and were
+rowed by the fishermen through a sea of granite boulders to the opposite
+side of the Trégastel estuary, to see the "pierre pendue," or
+rocking-stone (Breton, _rouler_), the largest in Brittany. These stones
+are so nicely poised that they can be moved with the slightest impulse by
+any one knowing the exact point at which to touch them. They were used in
+early times as proving-stones, and called "Pierres de verité."
+
+
+                    “Firm as it seems,
+    Such is its strange and virtuous property,
+    It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch
+    Of him whose breast is pure; but to a traitor,
+    Though e’en a giant’s prowess nerved his arm,
+    It stands as fixed as Snowdon.” —MASON.
+
+
+Or, as Sir Walter Scott alludes to them,—
+
+
+      “Some, chance-poised and balanced, lay
+    So that a stripling arm might sway
+      A mass no host could raise,
+    In nature’s rage at random thrown,
+    Yet trembling like the Druid’s Stone,
+      On its precarious base.” —LORD OF THE ISLES.
+
+
+The council of Nantes, in the seventh century, ordered the bishops to have
+the rocking-stones destroyed. The coarse rose-coloured granite of this
+coast resembles the Egyptian.
+
+We rowed back to the little inn at Ploumanach, and had some eggs and a hot
+langouste or rock-lobster. This kind is more plentiful on the coast of
+Brittany than the common, but these rocky shores abound in both sorts. The
+village of Ploumanach is built nearly into the sea, in the midst of rocks
+overhanging the harbour. It is almost exclusively frequented by fishermen;
+in the front is a group of rocks or islands called Les Sept Iles; the Ile
+aux Moines, the most important among them, is strongly fortified, and is
+directly opposite Ploumanach. At the inn we found a German artist employed
+in making sketches in oil of this strange coast. It was late when we
+reached Lannion, a town prettily situated in the valley of Leguer; it
+contains no remarkable buildings except a few houses of the period of
+Henry IV. and Louis XIII. in the market-place. The mackerel and other
+fisheries are carried on from here, the grande and petite pêche, the
+"lieu" is taken in shoals and salted. The seaweed or wrack (_Fucus
+vesiculosus_) called goëmon, is extensively collected along the coasts of
+Brittany for fertilising the lands and also for fuel, which last is so
+scarce that even cow-dung is collected and dried against the walls for the
+same use. The gathering of goëmon takes place in March and September, and
+employs the whole population of the district. Souvestre says, that on the
+appointed day for gathering the crop, horses, oxen, cows, dogs, every
+animal, and every machine, is put into requisition. Women and children all
+are assembled in the bays, sometimes to the number of 10,000 persons; but,
+to allow the poor to have the full advantage, the custom is, on the first
+day, to admit only the necessitous of the parish. These borrow their
+neighbours’ vehicles, and collect a good crop. It is called "the day of
+the poor." The goëmon grows on rocks at a distance from the shore, and the
+peasants not having sufficient boats to collect it tie the heaps together
+with cords on to branches of trees and form a raft, on which the whole
+family is launched; a barrel is attached at the end, and the unsteady
+craft often rolls over and its cargo is precipitated into the water. The
+fine sands of the sea shore are also carted and laid on the heavy lands to
+divide the soil. Ascending the valley of the Leguer, about eight miles
+from Lannion, on the opposite side of the river, we turned down a muddy
+lane, and getting out into a field saw in front of us the imposing castle
+of Tonquédec, perhaps the finest remains in Brittany of military
+architecture, dating from the fourteenth century. It crowns the summit of
+a hill, wooded down to the river’s edge, with water-mills and a little
+village at the foot, the bright sparkling river running through the deep
+wild valley; nothing can exceed the picturesque effect of these ruins when
+seen from the opposite bank. Tonquédec has belonged from time immemorial
+to the Viscomtes de Coêtmen, who held the first rank among the nobles of
+Brittany, but one of them espousing the cause of the Constable Clisson
+against Duke John IV. saw his fortress demolished. It was restored under
+Henry IV., and again dismantled by order of Cardinal Richelieu, who hated
+castles and their nobility. The castle is an irregular four-sided figure.
+It had an outer enclosure, and was entered by a drawbridge, and furnished
+with every imaginable fortification. Three sides were surrounded by
+dwellings, among these a fine roofed salle d’armes remains. A flying
+bridge led to the keep, which was of four stories, but the entrance on the
+first story, so that in case of siege the garrison might retire to the
+keep, and hold out till want of provisions or ammunition compelled them to
+surrender. The towers and walls remain, the latter are ten feet thick.
+
+On our way to Plouaret we drove up to the château of Kergrist, a square
+edifice with pepper-box towers at each angle, in good preservation,
+occupied by a lady of the name of Douglas. Our driver could not find the
+way to the "Chapelle des Sept Saints," built over a dolmen, which lay near
+the station at Plouaret, whence we proceeded by rail, and, entering the
+department of Finistère, shortly after reached Morlaix over its
+magnificent granite viaduct, the most important among the many which occur
+between Rennes and Brest. The railway runs parallel to the coast, and
+traverses, not far from their mouths, the streams which abound in this
+"pays accidenté." This gigantic work is one-sixth of a mile (292 yards)
+long, and consists of two tiers of arches, fourteen in the upper line and
+nine below.
+
+Morlaix is picturesquely built on the sides of three ravines, so steep
+that the saying goes, "De la mansarde au jardin, comme on dit à Morlaix."
+It is situated on a tidal river, about eight miles from the sea, ascended
+by small vessels, which give the place a lively appearance. Few towns have
+so many beautiful timbered houses of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
+remaining. One of the most curious is that belonging to a miller, No. 19,
+in the Rue des Nobles, a street where the houses are built one story
+projecting over the other, so that the top stories of the opposite houses
+nearly touch each other and exclude the light. The fronts, gable-shaped,
+have their enormous beams richly carved, and supported by brackets and
+statues of St. Yves or other favourite saints; some are overlaid with
+lozenge-shaped slates, and finished at the point with a leaden "épi," or
+ornamental terminal. All have a kind of hall, panelled and sculptured to
+the roof, the staircases richly sculptured and supported by a pillar
+carved from top to bottom with statues of saints or grotesque figures
+superposed one over the other. Among the statuettes in the house, No. 19,
+are the figures of St. Roch and his dog; St. Christopher carrying the
+infant Jesus, St. Michael, and various others. On another staircase, in
+better preservation, but not so richly carved (at the Veuve Perron’s, No.
+14, Grande Rue), are female saints,—the Virgin, St. Catherine, and St.
+Barbara.
+
+Morlaix gave a grand reception to the Queen-Duchess Anne, when on her
+pilgrimage through Brittany in 1505. The town presented her with a little
+ship of gold, bearing the arms of the city, and enriched with precious
+stones, and a tame ermine with a diamond collar round its neck. Anne
+received the ermine, and caressed the little animal, who returned her
+endearments, and, at length, suddenly concealed itself in her bosom, which
+unexpected proceeding startled the Queen, when the Seigneur du Rohan, who
+was by her side, exclaimed, "What do you fear, madam; is not the ermine
+your cognisance?" No less enthusiastic was the reception given by the
+citizens of Morlaix forty years later (1548) to Mary Stuart, then only
+five years old, on her landing in France. She was lodged in the convent of
+the Jacobins, and assisted at the Te Deum in the church of Notre
+Dame-du-Mur. When passing through one of the gates on her way back, the
+drawbridge, overloaded with spectators, gave way, and several persons were
+thrown into the water. Mary’s Scottish attendants cried out "Treason!" but
+the Seigneur de Rohan, who was on horseback by the side of the royal
+litter, indignantly exclaimed, "Jamais Breton ne fit trahison." The
+loyalty and good faith of the Bretons is proverbial. "En tout chemin,
+loyauté," is a Breton motto,(8) and it is one of the virtues attributed to
+them by a Breton writer, who assigns to them four virtues and three vices.
+Their virtues consist in a love of their country and their home,
+resignation to the will of the Almighty, loyalty to each other, and
+hospitality. Their vices are avarice, contempt for women, and drunkenness.
+Their love of country and home is carried to an extent, rivalling, if not
+exceeding, that of the Swiss. The Breton not only loves the village where
+he was born, but he loves the field of his fathers, the hearth and the
+clock of his home, even the bed on which he was born, and on which he
+hopes to close his eyes. The conscript and sailor are often known to die
+of grief when away from their native land. Brittany possesses for its
+children an inconceivable attraction, and there is no country in the world
+where man is more attached to his native soil.
+
+
+    “O landes! ô forêts! pierres sombres et hautes,
+    Bois qui couvrez nos champs, mers qui battez nos côtes,
+    Villages où les morts errent avec les vents,
+    Bretagne, d’où vient l’amour de tes enfants?” —BRIZEUX.
+
+
+The Bretons are brave soldiers and good sailors; their disposition is
+hasty and violent, and even ferocious in anger. When the people of Nantes
+rose up in rebellion against Duke Francis, his brother-in-law, the Comte
+du Foix, sent to pacify them, said to him on his return from his mission,
+"J’aimerais mieux être prince d’un million de sangliers que de tel peuple
+que sont vos Bretons"—Brittany has always been the theatre of great
+virtues and great crimes.
+
+On Sunday we went to the Welsh Baptist Chapel, to hear Mr. Jenkins preach
+in the Breton language. He has been there thirty years zealously labouring
+among the peasants, to convert whom he was sent by the Welsh Baptist
+Missionary Society. From his thorough knowledge of the French and Breton
+languages, he is eminently fitted for the task. He travels about the
+surrounding country preaching, and establishing schools, and has revised
+the Breton(9) translation of the New Testament for the Society, and
+circulated, by means of colporteurs, from eight to nine thousand Bibles,
+besides above 100,000 tracts. The task of acquiring the Breton language is
+less difficult for a Welshman, for the similarity between them is so great
+that the two people are able to make themselves understood to each other.
+The labours of Mr. Jenkins have lately awakened the attention of the
+Breton Roman Catholic clergy, who have publicly denounced him from their
+altars, but without causing him to slacken in the good work he has
+undertaken. Persecuted by a tyrannical priesthood, who hold dominion over
+a peasantry bigoted in proportion to their ignorance, his position is one
+of difficulty and danger; but he goes on with undrooping energy, convinced
+that, though the progress is slow, the good seed has not been sown in
+vain, and will, in due time, bear fruit, though those who first sowed it
+may have passed away. There were about a dozen Bretons at the evening
+service; they seemed to be constantly going in and out, as if unable to
+keep up their attention to so long a service. There are also English
+Protestant chapels at Morlaix and Quimper, and French at Brest and
+Lorient.
+
+We saw a christening in the cathedral, of a child about eighteen months
+old; the mother wore a wonderful conical cap of lace.
+
+A few houses from our hotel a ball was going on, given every week for the
+workpeople of the town. The clatter of their iron-pointed wooden shoes
+seemed quite to drown the music.
+
+Next day we walked to the Fontaine des Anglais, so-called from the
+slaughter of a body of English at that place. Jealous of the prosperity of
+Morlaix, Henry VIII. sent a fleet up the river to attack the place, and
+the commander, being informed by a spy of the absence of the chief nobles
+at Guingamp, and of the townsmen at the fair of Pontivy, landed with a
+force which entered Morlaix, burnt it, and returned laden with booty to
+their boats. Six or seven hundred men, who were intoxicated, fell asleep
+in the wood, where they were attacked by the nobles, who had hastened from
+Guingamp to the assistance of the town, and were all massacred. The
+neighbouring fountain, said to have been tinged with the invaders’ blood,
+received in memory of the event the name of "Fontaine des Anglais." It was
+on this occasion the town of Morlaix added to its arms, a lion (emblem of
+vigilance), encountering a two-headed leopard (for England), with the
+punning motto, "S’ils te mordent, mors-les" (Morlaix).
+
+Emile Souvestre, author of ’Le Foyer Breton,’ and ’Les Derniers Bretons,’
+the ablest portrayer of Breton manners, customs, and superstitions, was a
+native of Morlaix; he died in the Protestant Communion, 1854.
+
+We were recommended to sail down the Morlaix River to its mouth, as the
+scenery is very picturesque, but we had not time to effect it. The great
+beauty of Brittany generally consists in its river scenery, the Rance, to
+Dinan; the rivers of Quimper and Quimperlé; the Aven, Elorn, and Blavet,
+are all highly picturesque and worth visiting. Our next drive was to St.
+Pol de Léon, partly along the bank of the river, passing under the church
+of Notre Dame-de-la-Salzette and the convent below of St. François. The
+tall steeples of St. Pol are seen at a great distance, and looking behind
+is the best view of the Mené-Bré, an insulated conical mountain, one of
+the Mené-Arré chain, situated near the station of Belle-Isle-Bégard. A
+chain of mountains runs through the Côtes-du-Nord, and, at the western end
+of the department, forks off into two branches which traverse the whole of
+Finistère,—the Mené-Arré, or northern chain, and the Montagnes Noires, or
+southern.
+
+St. Pol looks like a town of the Middle Ages. "The holy city," as it is
+called by the Léonnais, one of the four bishoprics(10) into which Brittany
+was divided, comprising the modern districts of Morlaix and Brest. The
+Pays de Léon is remarkable for the number of its religious monuments, its
+fine churches, its bone-houses, calvaries, way-side crosses, and shrines.
+Crosses are set up in every direction, and of every description, from the
+plain unpretending simple cross of wood or stone, to the huge crosses
+flaunting in green paint, with tears of gold—specimens of the taste of the
+maire or priest of the district. No Breton passes the sacred symbol
+without kneeling to salute it, and making the sign of the cross—evidence
+that the piety of those who first raised them has not degenerated in their
+posterity. The country is rich and varied. The Léonnais is tallest of all
+the Breton race; his dress is generally black or blue, with a coloured
+scarf round his waist, his hair is worn very long, and his broad-brimmed
+hat has a silver buckle.  He is grave, of a calm confiding faith, which
+nothing can shake or alter, and of intense religious feeling.  The church
+is the place of meeting, where all his business is transacted, all his
+aspirations centered. Throughout Brittany the priesthood are low and
+ignorant. Like the Irish, the Breton farmer’s great ambition is to make
+his son a priest. In no part of France are they more uneducated than in
+Brittany.
+
+St. Pol is still and melancholy, the grass grows in the streets, the city
+looks as if it had not awakened since its palmy days of the fourteenth
+century. Its churches, calvaries, cemeteries, all silent as death—
+
+                 “A deep, still pool in the ocean of life.”
+
+Its lively neighbour, Morlaix, offers a strange contrast: its inhabitants
+may well say they are three hundred years in advance of St. Pol.
+
+The pride of St. Pol de Léon is the church of Notre Dame-de-Creizker. Its
+steeple, nearly 400 feet high, was said by Vauban to be the boldest piece
+of architecture he ever beheld. It is built in the centre of the church,
+entirely of granite, cut in the shape of tiles and open work, to within
+eighty feet from the base. According to the legend, on the spot where the
+church now stands, there lived in the time of St. Génévroc, a young girl,
+whom the saint found, when passing her house on the fête of our Lady,
+employed at her needle. He reproached her gently with her impiety, yet she
+went on sewing, saying "she required food on Sundays as well as on work
+days." But the girl has hardly finished speaking, when all her body became
+cold and motionless as a stone. She was completely paralysed. Asking
+pardon of St. Génévroc, he made the sign of the cross upon each of her
+limbs, and the power of motion returned. Grateful for her recovery, she
+gave to the saint, her house, which was situated in the middle of the town
+(as its name implies), as a site for his church. It is said to have been
+built by an English architect, invited to Brittany by Mary Plantagenet,
+daughter of Edward III., and first wife of Duke John IV.(11)
+
+The axis of the nave is inclined to the left, a mystic allusion to the
+position of the head of the expiring Saviour on the cross. _Et inclinato
+capite, emise spiritum_, "And He bowed his head, and gave up the ghost."
+The north porch of the Creizker is beautifully sculptured with leaves of
+the mallow, the vine, and mulberry. It was all under repair when we saw
+it.
+
+[Illustration: 22. The Creizker.]
+
+The cathedral has two fine towers with spires, and a magnificent rose
+window of the fifteenth century in the south transept, with, above, the
+"fenêtre d’excommunication." The fine porch, lightly and delicately
+sculptured, is surmounted by a balustrade, whence the episcopal
+benediction was given. Over the high altar is a large wooden crosier,
+gilt, from which to suspend the ciborium, similar to that we saw in the
+cathedral of Dol. A black marble slab, at the foot of the steps of the
+high altar, marks the grave of St. Pol de Léon, who died 570. St. Pol, the
+patron bishop and founder of the cathedral, was one of the clergy of Great
+Britain who emigrated to Brittany in the sixth century; he landed in the
+island of Ouëssant, and passed on to the country of Léon, where he founded
+a monastery. The island of Batz was, at that time, infested by an enormous
+dragon, sixty feet long; the saint, accompanied by a warrior, entered the
+cavern of the monster, tied his stole round its neck, and gave him to his
+companion to lead, St. Pol following, beating him with his stick, till
+they arrived at the extremity of the island, when he took off the stole,
+and commanded the dragon to throw itself in the sea, an order the animal
+immediately obeyed. St. Pol is always represented with the dragon by his
+side, the stole round its neck. We were shown a little bell, said to have
+belonged to the saint. It appears he had repeatedly asked the king to give
+him this bell for his new church, but had always been refused. When one
+day some fishermen brought him a large fish taken off the island of Batz,
+and in its mouth was the coveted bell. It is certainly very ancient in
+form, a kind of square pyramid about four inches wide and nine high, of
+beaten red copper mixed, we were told, with a considerable quantity of
+silver. It is now rung over the heads of the faithful on pardons, as a
+specific against headache and earache—a singular remedy! The cathedral has
+a fine marble tomb of Bishop Visdelou, preacher to Queen Anne of Austria;
+he is represented in a half reclining posture, in his pontifical garments.
+In every part of the cathedral are the little boxes of skulls.
+
+Adjacent is the Ursuline convent, where is preserved a small figure of the
+Virgin in jet; brought from a church in the Iles Sainte Marguerite, taken
+from the Spaniards in the seventeenth century. It is supposed to possess
+miraculous powers, and is sent round to the sick as a specific.
+
+We breakfasted at the little inn (Hôtel de France), commanding a pretty
+view of the coast from its windows and garden. The Léon country was
+governed by Viscounts, who boasted, among several manorial rights, the
+"droit de motte," which empowered them, if a vassal (they were "serfs de
+motte") attempted to live out of his demesne, or to enter the service of
+another lord, to bring him back to his "motte," a cord round his neck, and
+inflict upon him corporal punishment. By virtue of the same right, if the
+demesne of a lord was so placed that it had no natural height from which
+to survey its extent, his vassals were made to bring sufficient cart-loads
+of earth to raise a mound or "motte" of the requisite elevation. The other
+privilege was the droit de "bris," equivalent to our flotsum and jetsum,
+so lucrative that a Léon Viscount is recorded to have said, when a noble
+was exhibiting his casket of gems, that he possessed a jewel more precious
+than all they were admiring—alluding to a rock famous for its shipwrecks.
+Duke John the Red, taking advantage of the misdeeds of one of these lords
+of Léon, seized his rich possessions and united them (1276) to the crown.
+The viscounty of Léon fell by alliance, in the fourteenth century, to the
+house of Rohan, in whose favour is was raised in the sixteenth to a
+principality.
+
+We continued our drive to Roscoff, three miles distant, a little sea-port
+town, formerly one of the three great dens of corsairs and smugglers, all
+under the protection of St. Barbe,—the other two being Camaret and Le
+Conquet. Roscoff was the emporium of considerable contraband trade with
+England. Tea, wine, and brandy were brought over in small casks, which the
+smugglers tied together and threw into the sea, when near the coast, and
+landed at night. The whole country round is now one extent of
+kitchen-garden, the light sandy soil, dressed with the goëmon, produces an
+incredible quantity of vegetables, onions, cabbages, parsnips, asparagus,
+artichokes, cauliflowers, &c. Of onions, 2,000,000 lbs. are said to be
+sent every year to England alone. The people here wear black caps, those
+of the men are stocking-knit. The gardeners of Roscoff will carry their
+produce above a hundred miles for sale. The chief vegetable consumed by
+the Bretons themselves is the cabbage, of which the quantity raised is
+enormous. The kind grown is mostly the Jersey or cow-cabbage, which grows
+with stalks from five to six feet high, and has large leaves at every
+joint. They use them for their cattle, as well as for their own eating.
+Avenues of cabbages, stacked five or six feet high, are to be seen in most
+Breton markets. Bread or porridge of buckwheat (blé noir) with
+cabbage-soup is the customary diet of the country. The recipe is simple,
+consisting of a cabbage-leaf, over which a little hot water is thrown, and
+a "soupçon" of butter added to give it a flavour. These ingredients
+compose the national soup which always appears at the tâble d’hôte, with
+the inevitable "ragoût," _i. e._ harricoed mutton. The little town of
+Roscoff has some historic importance. It was here that John de Montfort
+sailed to England to do homage to King Edward III. for the duchy of
+Brittany, and returned by the same port. Here also the child-princess Mary
+Stuart landed in 1548 to marry the young Dauphin, afterwards Francis II.
+In commemoration of the event, she afterwards caused the little chapel of
+St. Ninian to be built close on the water’s edge. It is not more than
+fifty feet long, and has an eastern flamboyant window, with others in the
+side walls. The arches are fast going to decay, the stone altar is also
+sculptured. When we saw it, the interior was filled with bundles of
+broom-branches and poultry. It is strange this little chapel, built by the
+Queen of two Kingdoms, should be suffered to fall to ruin for the lack of
+a trifling outlay.
+
+Here, two hundred years later, Prince Charles Stuart landed after
+Culloden, in the French frigate the ’Heureux,’ sent by the French
+Government to facilitate his escape, having eluded, through the chances of
+a fog, the pursuit of the English cruisers; and here he knelt, in the
+chapel of his ancestress, to return thanks for his deliverance.
+
+The church of Roscoff has a curious pierced steeple, like many of those in
+Finistère, and some alabaster bas-reliefs of the fourteenth century, with
+numerous boxes of skulls. A ship rudely sculptured by the porch, and
+another by the east window, show that the fishermen and ship-owners
+contributed to the building of the church. By the shore is a rock of
+grotesque form, and opposite, about three miles from Roscoff, is the
+pretty island of Batz, which derives its name—Breton "batz," a stick—from
+the rod used by St. Pol de Léon to work his miracle.
+
+People were busily employed in boats collecting the goëmon, which they
+pile in heaps along the shore. The great curiosity of Roscoff is its
+enormous fig-tree, in the garden of the Capucine convent, said to be two
+centuries old. It is supported by stone pillars, and is, we were informed,
+above 300 feet in circumference.
+
+We returned that evening to Morlaix: the viaduct by moonlight had a most
+picturesque appearance. Next morning we proceeded by rail to the station
+of St. Thégonnec, where nothing in the shape of a vehicle was to be had to
+convey us to the town—nearly a mile and a half distant—but the ricketty
+two-wheeled mail cart. At the little cabaret, which bears the important
+name of Hôtel de la Grande Maison, we procured breakfast. The church has
+been restored. It is rich in carvings, spoiled by gilding, the altars and
+canopied pulpit especially. Opposite to the last are two coloured
+"retables." The high altar, with two side altars and two smaller ones
+behind, are gorgeously carved, coloured and gilt, and extend to the roof.
+The painted-glass windows are the gifts of various persons. At the
+entrance of the churchyard is a Renaissance porch, or triumphal arch,
+dated 1581, with a sculpture representing St. Thégonnec, a bullock and car
+by his side. Adjoining, is the ossuary, or reliquary, bearing the date
+1676, also in the same elaborate style, destitute of bones, but having
+below a crypt containing a group of life-sized figures representing the
+Entombment, with this inscription:—
+
+
+    “Tu le vois mort, pécheur, ce Dieu qui t’a fait naître:
+    Sa mort est ton ouvrage, et devient ton appui.
+    A ce trait de bonté, tu dois au moins vivre pour lui.”
+
+
+In the churchyard is also a calvary; the name given to those monumental
+sculptures peculiar to Brittany, consisting of the crucifix, surrounded by
+the chief witnesses of the crucifixion, together with minor groups
+representing passages in the life of our Saviour. This calvary, executed
+in Kersanton stone, is dated 1610; the numerous figures are all in the
+grotesque costume of the period, with ruffs, toquets, trained gowns, and
+scalloped jackets.
+
+[Illustration: 23. Calvary, Guimiliau.]
+
+We took a carriage for Guimiliau, passing on our road to the left, a
+grotto. The church of Guimiliau partly dates from the Renaissance; it has
+a finely sculptured porch, and contains within carvings of great beauty;
+the pulpit, supported on a column, is dated 1677; the organ-loft is
+enriched with splendid bas-reliefs in oak panels,—one represents a
+triumphal march, after Le Brun, the others, King David and St. Cecilia.
+But the grand monumental carving is the magnificent baptistery or
+baptismal font, surmounted by a baldachin or canopy, supported by eight
+twisted columns interlaced with vines, grapes and flowers, with graceful
+little birds pecking the fruit. On the top of the canopy is a dolphin, and
+above, two figures of Fame, trumpet-mouthed, surmounted by a royal crown
+and the letters S. V. This baptistery and the organ-loft are both in the
+style of Louis XIV., and are said to have cost 30,000 francs. In the
+churchyard are a triumphal arch and a reliquary, both inferior to those of
+St. Thégonnec, but the calvary of Guimiliau is one of the most extensive
+in Brittany. It is of the sixteenth century. It consists of a solid
+platform, ascended by a staircase, and raised upon arches; upon it,
+sculptured in Kersanton stone, are the three crosses, the centre one
+beautifully carved with St. John and the Virgin Mary by the side. The four
+Evangelists are placed at each corner, and all the passages in the life of
+Christ are represented by groups of little figures in the costume of the
+sixteenth century. This singular monument bears two different dates, those
+of 1581 and 1588.
+
+Guimiliau is close to the railway, but there is no station there. We
+returned to St. Thégonnec. The peasants along the road were threshing
+their buckwheat on the open ground; women as well as men were at work.
+They threshed in a circle, keeping good time with their strokes, and
+laughing merrily while they flourished their flails,—they appeared a most
+joyous party,—
+
+
+    “Ho! batteux, battons la gerbe,
+    Compagnons, joyeusement.”
+
+
+Buckwheat, their "blé noir," is the Breton’s chief food, and is cultivated
+to a large extent. With its coral-red stalks and snowy flowers it has a
+very pretty appearance growing, and is the first care of the Breton
+farmer—
+
+
+    “Ah! que la sombre nue aux funestes lueurs,
+      Planant sur la campagne,
+    Epargne les blés-noirs, les blés aux blanches fleurs,
+      Ce pain de la Bretagne."” —STÉPHANE HALGAN.
+
+
+This plant, a native of Asia Minor, was evidently, from its French name,
+"sarrazin," introduced into Europe by the Saracens or Moors. We proceeded
+by rail to Brest, passing under the foot of the abrupt rock upon which
+stand the picturesque ruins of the ancient castle of La Roche Maurice and
+the church of La Roche. The rail runs along the banks of the Elorn through
+a narrow wooded valley; the windings of the river are very picturesque,
+and formerly a steamer ran from Landerneau to Brest, affording the
+opportunity of seeing them.
+
+Brest, the first harbour in France, is Breton only in name and locality;
+it is built in an amphitheatre on the slopes of two hills divided by the
+river Penfeld, which forms the port. On the right is the suburb
+Recouvrance, on the left Brest proper. This irregular site often causes
+the second floor of the houses in one street to be on a line with the
+ground floor of another. Brest is clean and well built, and consists of
+three long parallel streets. The principal one, called the Rue de Siam, in
+commemoration of the Siamese Ambassadors sent to Louis XIV., who landed
+here, runs the whole length of the town, ending at the fine iron bridge
+called the Pont Impériale, the largest swing-bridge ever constructed. You
+descend by a flight of steps from the Rue de Siam to the lower streets.
+Running along the bay, of considerable extent, and well planted with
+trees, is the magnificent promenade called the Cours d’Ajot, from the name
+of the officer of the Engineers by whom it was laid out and planted a
+century back. Well sheltered by its trees and refreshed by the sea
+breezes, it commands a fine view over the new "port de commerce," and the
+whole extent of the harbour of Brest, which is capable of containing 500
+ships of the line, and is, with the exception of those of Rio Janeiro and
+Constantinople, the largest and most beautiful in the world.
+
+Brest harbour has only one entrance, which is to the west, through a
+narrow channel called Le Goulet, less than a mile in width, and cut into
+two by the Mingant rock. In the year 1796 the ’Republican’ was lost here.
+Sailing out of the harbour, with a contrary wind and snow, the pilot
+thought he had passed the Mingant rock, when the ship struck, and went
+down with 800 men on board. Brest Castle in the Middle Ages was a place of
+such strength and importance that John IV., who had four times besieged it
+fruitlessly, when it was under the English dominion, was wont to say "Ce
+n’est duc de Bretagne, qui n’est pas sire de Brest." It had been held by
+Sir Robert Knolles against the army of the King of France under Du
+Guesclin, who was obliged to raise the siege. The donjon was built by King
+Richard II. during the War of Succession. The making Brest an important
+naval station was the thought of Richelieu, and the work of Louis XIV.,
+who built the arsenal.
+
+Next day we made an excursion to see the church of Notre Dame-du-Folgoët
+or the Fool of the Wood, celebrated in legendary lore: the tale is so old
+and often told, we have some scruples in repeating it.
+
+Towards the middle of the fourteenth century, there lived in the woods of
+Lesneven, a poor idiot boy, called Salaun (Solomon), better known under
+the name of the Fool of the Wood (Folgoët). He was miserably clad, had no
+bed but the ground; no pillow, but a stone; no roof, but the tree which
+gave him shelter. He went every day to Lesneven to seek his daily bread,
+but he never begged; he uttered the simple words "Ave Maria! Solomon could
+eat bread," and returned with whatever pittance was given him to his tree
+near the fountain, into which he dipped his crusts, and plunged even in
+the depth of winter, for his bath, always repeating the words, "Hail,
+Maria!"  One day a party of marauding soldiers accosted him. In answer to
+their questions, he replied, "I am neither for Blois nor Montfort, I am
+the servant of the Lady Mary." This simple life he led for nearly forty
+years, when at last he fell ill and died, repeating his favourite words
+"Ave Maria." He was found dead near the fountain, and was buried by his
+neighbours. After a time, when the memory of the poor idiot boy had nearly
+passed away, there suddenly sprung up from his grave a white lily with the
+words "Ave Maria" inscribed in letters of gold upon its petals. The news
+of the miracle spread throughout all Brittany, Duke John sent
+commissioners; the grave was opened, and it was found the lily proceeded
+from the mouth of Salaun,—"ceste royale fleur sortait par sa bouche du
+creux de son estomach"—a testimony of the innocence and piety "du plus
+beau mignon de la reine des Cieux." Duke John vowed to erect a church to
+our Lady over the fountain of the poor mendicant, whose faith had been
+thus recognised;(12) and, faithful to his promise, the first stone was
+laid by him in 1366, as a thank-offering for his success the previous year
+at the battle of Auray, which had fixed the crown upon his head. His wife,
+Joan of Navarre, not only made a pilgrimage to the Folgoët in 1396, but
+also contributed to the building of the church. It was completed by John
+V., about 1419. The Queen-Duchess Anne of Brittany went there in
+pilgrimage after the recovery from illness of Louis XIII. Anne of Austria
+founded six masses at the Folgoët, in gratitude for the birth of Louis
+XIV., and several popes granted indulgences to those who made pilgrimages
+to this shrine. This church is one of the finest in Brittany. Its colour
+is sombre; it is the oldest monument in Brittany in which the Kersanton
+stone is employed.  This stone is a volcanic rock called hornblende, of
+very fine grain, with minute specks of mica. There is a large quarry near
+St. Pol de Léon; but it is found principally on the west of the harbour of
+Brest, near a village from which it takes its name. Kersanton stone is of
+a dark-green colour, approaching to bronze, gives out a metallic sound
+when struck, and is easily worked in the quarry, in blocks of from twenty
+to forty feet cube, but hardens on exposure to the air. Time has no
+destructive effect on it; the most delicate, lightest, and most ornamental
+sculptures executed in it remain uninjured, while the hardest granites,
+erected at the same time, are friable and decomposed. The Kersanton stone
+cuts glass like a diamond.
+
+The architecture of the Folgoët is distinguished for the elegance and
+richness of its ornamentation: the softness of the Kersanton stone, when
+fresh taken from the quarry fits it specially for the deeply cut,
+lace-like works of the artists of the flamboyant school, and the church is
+remarkable for the skill with which the productions of the vegetable
+kingdom are represented both within and without. It has no transepts, but
+to the south is a projection formed by the treasure chamber. The modern
+pulpit has a series of medallion bas-reliefs representing the legend of
+Solomon.
+
+The jubé, or roodloft, is a perfect lacework of stone. Above three arches,
+decorated with vine-leaves, is an open-worked gallery of pierced
+quatre-foils surpassing in exuberance of ornament any other known.
+
+To the east are five altars, all of Kersanton stone, most delicately
+sculptured—the under-cutting of the foliage most wonderful. They are in
+the shape of tombs or sarcophagi, the form generally adopted for altars in
+the sixteenth century. Round the "autel des anges," richest of them all,
+is a row of eighteen niches, filled in with the figures of angels, holding
+alternately phylacteries and escutcheons; round the top is a cornice of
+thistle-leaves—on the cut stalk of one hangs a dew-drop perfect to nature.
+
+The high altar is decorated with vine-leaves, birds pecking the grapes,
+and the ermine, with its motto "À ma vie," introduced. The altar of the
+rosary has also a cornice of vine-leaves modelled evidently after the high
+altar.
+
+[Illustration: 24. The Fool’s Well, Folgoët.]
+
+The fine flamboyant rose window at the east of the church resembles that
+of St. Pol de Léon, and below it is the fountain of Salaun. The spring is
+concealed under the high altar, and flows into a basin without, preserved
+by a kind of Gothic porch sculptured with thistle-leaves and crockets, and
+within it, on a bracket, is a delicately chiseled image of the Virgin.
+Some children round the fountain offered us pins, the use of which we did
+not understand. We afterwards learned that it is the custom in Brittany
+for girls to take a pin from their bodice, and throw it into a sacred
+well, to ascertain, by its manner of sinking, when they would be married.
+If the pin falls head foremost, then there is no present hope of
+matrimony, but if the point goes first, it is a sure sign of being married
+that year.
+
+On the new year, in some parts of Brittany, pieces of bread-and-butter are
+thrown into the fountains, and from the way in which they swim the future
+is foretold. If the buttered side turns under, it forebodes death; if two
+pieces adhere together, it is a sign of sickness; and if the piece floats,
+it is an assurance of long life and happiness.
+
+The veneration for springs and healing wells is of very ancient date, and
+was prohibited by early councils of the Church; but the worship of that
+element from which suffering humanity seeks for relief in all its ailments
+has passed through succeeding creeds, and that which was held sacred a
+thousand years back is still the object of reverence and affection.
+
+Nor is the sculpture outside the church less remarkable than the interior.
+The west door, now fallen to decay, has an arch with double entrance
+separated by a column containing a bénitier. A wreath of curled leaves
+runs round the arch, and on a bracket of thistle-leaves formerly stood a
+statue of John V.
+
+The north side has little ornament. The great richness is in the south,
+where is the fine porch of Bishop Alain de la Rue, who consecrated the
+building, and more splendid still, is, at the angle formed by the
+projecting sacristy facing the west, the Porch of the Apostles. The twelve
+Apostles are ranged on each side, under rich canopies; the whole porch one
+mass of floral decoration, vine-leaves and mallows, interspersed with
+dragons, birds, and insects. On the right of the porch is a crouching
+figure with a label inscribed: "Bn soiez venz,"—"Bien soiez venuz" or
+"Soyez les bien venus"—an invitation to the faithful to enter into the
+church. On the lintel of the two doors are ermines passant, and the motto
+of the Dukes of Brittany, "À ma vie," and towards the south are the
+remains of a whole cornice of ermines, running through the rings of a long
+scroll inscribed with "À ma vie." This motto was first taken by Duke John
+IV. (who instituted the order of the Ermine) to imply that he had
+conquered Brittany, and would maintain it, even at the cost of his life,
+"à ma vie."(13)
+
+The collar consisted of a double chain, in each of which were four
+ermines, and two more hung suspended from two chains, surmounted by
+coronets. The motto "À ma vie" was placed round each of these ten ermines.
+The Père Lobineau quotes a history of Duke John, in which the order is
+thus spoken of:—
+
+
+    “Lors fit mander tous les Prélats,
+    Abbés et Clercs de tous Estats,
+    Barons, Chevaliers, Escuyers,
+    Qui tous portoient nouveaux Colliers
+    De moult bel port et belle guise;
+    Et étoit nouvelle Dévise
+    De deux Rolets brunis et beaux,
+    Couplés ensemble de deux fermeaux;
+    Et au dessus étoit l’Ermine
+    En figure et en couleur fine,
+    En deux Cedules avoit escript
+    _À ma vie_, comme j’ai dit;
+    L’un mot est blanc, l’autre noir,
+    Il est certain, tien, pour le voir.”
+
+
+In the churchyard is a cross erected by Cardinal de Coëtivy (died 1474),
+who is represented kneeling at the foot; it is said to be the work of
+Michel Colomb, sculptor of the celebrated monument raised by Queen Anne of
+Brittany to her parents, now in the Cathedral at Nantes. Next day, we went
+to Le Conquet, returning by St. Mathieu. We crossed the swing-bridge to
+the suburb Recouvrance, so called from the chapel of our Lady, to whom
+shipwrecked mariners addressed their petitions to recover (recouvrir)
+their property. On our left we saw the islet rock of Bertheaume, about 200
+feet high, distant from the coast 150. Until lately, the communication
+with the mainland was by means of a kind of cradle drawn on two cables,
+about nine mètres in circumference.
+
+Le Conquet(14) is a little seaport built on the slope of a steep hill.
+Formerly it was of some importance, and a great resort of pirates. Sir
+Walter Manny took the town for the Countess of Montfort, during the war of
+the two Jeannes, and it was attacked by the fleets of Henry VIII. and his
+daughter Mary. Opposite is a beautiful beach, called the Blancs Sablons,
+accessible at low water by walking across the harbour. Here is the point
+of communication with the island of Ouëssant, about seventeen miles
+distant, by means of a steamer, weather permitting, as the Chenal du Four,
+which separates this group of islands from the continent, is covered with
+rocks and is very dangerous in rough weather. Its men are all seamen or
+fishermen, the women perform the agricultural labour. They bring in their
+produce to Brest at the monthly fairs, and are not so cut off from the
+world as Gresset describes them:—
+
+
+    “Sous un ciel toujours rigoureux
+    Au sein des flots impétueux,
+    Non loin de l’Armorique plage
+    Habitacle marécageux,
+    Moitié peuplé, moitié sauvage,
+    Dont les habitants malheureux
+    Separés du reste du monde,
+    Semblent ne connoître l’onde
+    Et n’être connus que des cieux.”
+                    GRESSET.—_Carême impromptu._
+
+
+[Illustration: 25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.]
+
+We now reached the Abbey of St. Mathieu, situated on the extreme point of
+Brittany and of France, on the top of a promontory, well called Finistère.
+Here in the sixth century was built a monastery in honour of St. Matthew
+the Evangelist, whose head had been stolen in Egypt by some Breton
+navigators, and been brought to land at this point, which long bore the
+name of "St. Mathieu de fin de terre" (Finistère). In the twelfth century
+the monastery was converted into a Benedictine abbey, which is a beautiful
+example of the Early English style. The formidable rocks at its feet are
+called Les Moines. The monks of St. Mathieu kept a beacon for the safety
+of mariners on these dangerous shores. The modern lighthouse quite masks
+the sight of the abbey, and is a great disfigurement to the view, which,
+in other respects, is most grand; the imposing granite ruins of the abbey
+church on the very edge of these weather-beaten cliffs, worn and torn by
+the ocean with its unwearied waves; on the right, the reefs of the Passage
+du Four, which appear to unite the islands of Ouëssant and its satellites
+to St. Mathieu; on the left the elongated point of the Bec du Raz, which
+no one, according to the Bretons, ever passed without grief and suffering.
+In sight of Saint Mathieu, the English in 1504, with eighty ships,
+attacked Hervé de Porzmoguer, a Breton captain, with only twenty. His own
+ship the ’Cordelière,’ which had been built and fitted out by Anne of
+Bretagne, at her own expense, took fire; it held 1200 troops besides the
+ship’s company. Porzmoguer grappled the ’Cordelière’ to the ship of the
+English admiral, the ’Great Harry;’ and both vessels, driven by the
+north-west wind to the entrance of the Goulet, were burned together, and
+above 2000 men perished in the two ships. Porzmoguer mounted the mast
+followed by the raging flames, and cast himself from the main-top, in full
+armour, into the sea.
+
+In 1597, the fleet sent by Philip II. to take possession of Brittany for
+Spain was dispersed in a storm off Point St. Mathieu, and, out of a
+hundred and twenty ships, scarcely one remained.
+
+On our way home, we passed a little town called La Trinité, from three
+springs all issuing from the same fountain, at which washerwomen with
+their wooden bats were hard at work, beating the clothes to rags on the
+stones.
+
+[Illustration: 26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant.]
+
+Next day was the monthly fair at Brest, which brought in many of the
+country people in their picturesque costumes. Most conspicuous among them
+were the peasants of Ouëssant, last type of the Celtic women, in their
+singularly Italian-looking head-dress, their hair streaming over their
+shoulders; and the Plougastel men, in red caps, with coats and trowsers of
+white flannel.
+
+Most of the market-women were furnished with enormous umbrellas, red,
+blue, and green. In this rainy province, they are indispensable, and the
+acquisition of an umbrella is a great object of ambition to the Breton
+peasant.
+
+We left Brest by the steamer for Pont Launay and Châteaulin, a four hours’
+sail in the harbour of Brest. On the right we passed the Point des
+Espagnols, where Frobisher, sent by Queen Elizabeth to the assistance of
+Henry IV., received his death wound. Leaving on our left Plougastel, where
+we were unable to visit the celebrated calvary, we passed near the "Anse
+du Fret," whence Joan of Navarre, then widow of Duke John IV., sailed to
+England to marry Henry of Lancaster, 1403. Henry, when Earl of Derby, had
+visited Nantes to ask the assistance of his uncle in returning to England,
+and Joan had favoured his expedition, but Duke John died the same year
+(1399). When Queen Dowager of England, she saw the children of her two
+husbands arrayed against each other, and her son Arthur, who had been
+invested by King Henry IV. with the Earldom of Richmond, made prisoner at
+Agincourt by his half-brother King Henry V., who confined him in the
+Tower, and afterwards in Fotheringay Castle. Joan received hard treatment
+from her stepson. Accused of being a sorceress—a reputation she inherited
+from her father, Charles the Bad of Navarre—Henry caused her to be
+confined in Leeds and Pevensey castles, and deprived her of her property.
+It was only on his approaching death that he restored her to liberty. She
+retired to Havering Bower in Essex, where her grandson, the unfortunate
+Gilles de Bretagne, was reared and educated with Henry VI. She died in
+1437, and the memory of "Joan the witch queen" was long held in awe by the
+people of Havering Bower.
+
+[Illustration: 27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin.]
+
+On the left is the hamlet of Kersanton, which gives its name to the stone
+so called. At the entrance of the Aulne,(15) to the right, we passed the
+ruins of the abbey of Landévenec, the most ancient monastic establishment
+in Brittany. At Pont Launay an omnibus took us to the railway station at
+Châteaulin, celebrated for its slate quarries, a drive of three quarters
+of an hour. From here we proceeded by rail to Quimper, capital of
+Cornouaille. The district of Cornouaille—Cornu-Galliæ, expressing its
+position at the horn or extremity of France—is most varied in character.
+The part on the north is enclosed between the two chains of mountains,
+which, running nearly parallel with each other, traverse the department of
+Finistère, the Mené-Arré, and the Montagnes Noires. A single chain passes
+through the Côtes-du-Nord, and forks off, at the edge of the department,
+near Callac, whence the northern range, the Mené-Arré, runs westwards to
+Faou harbour; while the Montagnes Noires incline to the south-west, and
+reach the sea near Crozon. The country between these chains is dreary and
+bare—barren plains and black mountains; to the south it is cultivated and
+productive. The stormy rock-bound coast is wild and desolate. One-third of
+the department consists of landes, marshes, and sandy shores (_grèves_).
+The people are the Irish of Brittany. Their wants are restricted to a tub
+of salted pork and a provision of cider, with rye, or black corn, to make
+their "galette." They are simple in their manners, kind to the poor, and
+enduring of suffering. Respect for the misfortunes of others, and patience
+under their own, is one of the Breton characteristics.
+
+In the days of Conan Meriadec there lived a holy man, called Corentin, who
+retired to a solitude for prayer and meditation, near a fountain in a
+forest. Every morning a little fish came to him from the fountain; he cut
+a piece off it for his daily pittance and threw it again into the water,
+and in an instant the fish became whole. The miracle was repeated every
+morning. One day King Gradlon, who held his court at "Kemper," was in the
+forest near the hermitage of St. Corentin, with some of his suite, and
+asked him if he could give him something to eat. The saint immediately ran
+to his fountain and called his little fish, cut off a piece, which he gave
+to the maître d’hôtel to prepare for the king and his attendants. The chef
+laughed when he took the slice; but, to the surprise of everybody, the
+fish multiplied so as to completely satisfy the hunger of the king and his
+party. Gradlon threw himself on his knees at the feet of St. Corentin, and
+gave him the forest, with a "maison de plaisance," which St. Corentin
+converted into a monastery. The king afterwards erected Quimper into a
+bishopric, to which he nominated St. Corentin:—
+
+
+    “Voici dans le fond la ville de Kemper,
+    Asise au confluent de l’Oded et du Ster.
+    Comme sa cathédrale, aux deux tours dentelées,
+    S’élève noblement du milieu des vallées,
+    O perle de l’Oded, fille du roi Grallon,
+    Qui de saint Corentin portes aussi le nom,
+    Rejouis-toi, Kemper, dans tes vielles murailles!
+    Vois avec quelle ardeur, ô reine de Cornouailles,
+    Tes fils de tous les points de l’antique évêché,
+    Pêcheurs et montagnards, viennent à ton marché!
+    Cornouillais! en passant près de sa basilique,
+    Du bon saint Corentin adorez la relique.
+    Que tous ceux d’Elliant et des mêmes chemins
+    Boivent à sa fontaine et s’y lavent les mains;
+    Non pas les Léonards, eux de qui les ancêtres,
+    Voici quelque mille ans, hommes jaloux et traîtres,
+    Volèrent le poisson dont notre Corentin
+    Coupait pour se nourrir un pen chaque matin,
+    Et qui chaque matin, ô pieuse merveille!
+    Nageait dans sa fontaine aussi frais que la veille:
+    Eh bien! les Léonards volèrent ce poisson,
+    Mais Kemper n’oublie jamais leur trahison;
+    Sans jouir de leur crime, ils en portent la peine,
+    Et toujours le poisson nage dans la fontaine.”
+                    _Les Bretons_—BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Quimper, or Quimper-Corentin, is prettily situated at the junction of the
+rivers Odet and Stheire; its Breton name, Kemper, signifying confluence.
+It was long called Kemper-Odet. On the opposite side of the river the
+hills, consisting of a mass of rocks, covered with trees, rise to some
+height, and are ascended by well-kept walks. The river runs straight
+through the town, like a canal, edged by stone quays and crossed by iron
+bridges, with avenues of trees on each side. Trout can be seen in the
+sparkling stream; and we watched a boy with a hook at the end of a reel of
+black silk, hanging over the bridge, with a piece of kneaded bread for
+bait. With this simple tackle he contrived to hook a trout of tolerable
+size, and let it run out the length of his silk line till he had tired it
+out and landed it. The scenery of the river below Quimper, flowing through
+a bed of granite blocks, is, we were told, lovely, but we had no time to
+visit it further down. The view from the top of the wood-covered heights
+on the opposite side is very extensive, looking down upon the town, with
+its cathedral towers rising above, the promenade, and the course of the
+river. At the end of the town there is a manufactory of coarse pottery;
+but formerly it produced ware of a finer quality.
+
+The beautiful cathedral is the largest of the four episcopal churches of
+Lower Brittany (Vannes, St. Pol, Quimper, and Tréguier), and was
+principally built in the fifteenth century. On the platform over the
+finely sculptured porch, rich in foliage like the Folgoët, placed between
+the two towers, is the equestrian statue of King Gradlon, to whom is
+attributed the introduction of the vine into Brittany. The statue was
+decapitated in 1793, but restored ten years back. On St. Cecilia’s day
+companies of musicians used to mount on the platform. While they sang a
+hymn in praise of King Gradlon, one of the choristers, provided with a
+flagon of wine, a napkin, and golden hanap, mounted on the crupper of King
+Gradlon’s horse, poured out a cup of wine, which he offered ceremoniously
+to the lips of the statue and then drank himself, carefully wiped with his
+napkin the moustachios of the king, placed a branch of laurel in his hand,
+and then threw down the hanap in the midst of the crowd below, in honour
+of the first planter of the grape in Brittany. To whoever caught the cup
+before it fell, and presented it uninjured to the Chapter, was adjudged a
+prize of two hundred crowns.
+
+The two spires of the cathedral are modern, and were built by an annual
+subscription of a sou for five years, called the "sou du St. Corentin:"
+more than 600_l._ was thus raised. They have only been lately finished.
+
+[Illustration: 28. Beggar. Quimper.]
+
+The men about Quimper all wear the national costume—enormous bragou-bras,
+or breeches of a kind of white sail-cloth, a broad-brimmed felt hat, long
+hair, falling over the shoulders, wooden shoes, and a broad belt with
+metal buckle. Their woollen jacket and waistcoat are edged with gay
+colours, and have sometimes the itinerant tailor’s name and the date of
+the making of the garment, embroidered in wool upon the breast. On gala
+days brown or blue cloth bragous are worn, tied with coloured ribbons at
+the knees, black leather gaiters with buttons, and the sabots are replaced
+by leather shoes and costly silver buckles. The national costume is more
+preserved in Cornouaille than in the other parts of Brittany.  The pen bas
+or cudgel, with a large knob, like the Irish shillelah, is always ready at
+hand:—
+
+
+    “Comme une conque immense ouverte au bord des eaux,
+    En Cornouaille est un port, il y vient cent bateaux.
+    Un sable jaune et fin couvre ses côtes plates,
+    Mais un infect amas de rogues, de morgates,
+    D’ossements de poissons sur le rivage épars,
+    La saumure qui filtre entre ses deux remparts,
+    Soulèvent tous les sens quand cette odeur saline
+    Arrive au voyageur qui tourne la colline,
+    Laissant derrière lui les taillis de Melven,
+    La belle lande d’or qui parfume Aven,
+    Et ces mouvants aspects de plaines, de montagnes
+    Que déroulent sans fin nos sauvages campagnes.
+    Plus de batteurs de seigle ici, plus de faucheurs,
+    Mais des canots chargés de mousses, de pêcheurs,
+    Partant et revenant avec chaque marée,
+    Et sur les quais du pont versant à leur rentrée,
+    Des sardines en tas, des congres, des merlus,
+    Des homards cuirassés, de gros crabes velus;
+    Et, du fond des paniers, mille genres énormes,
+    De toutes les couleurs et de toutes les formes,
+    Avec leur œil vitreux et leur museau béant,
+    Tous enfants monstrueux du grand monstre Océan.
+    Aussitôt le pressier les sèche, les empile,
+    Et quand leur grasse chair a degorgé son huile,
+    De Nantes à Morlaix cherchant les acheteurs,
+    On voit bondir sur mer les hardis caboteurs."”
+                    _Les Bretons_—BRIZEUX.
+
+
+[Illustration: 29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.]
+
+Thus the Breton poet describes Concarneau, a little fortified town, which
+has been called the St. Malo of Cornouaille, and is celebrated for its
+sardine fishery. The road lay through a wooded country, with steep hills
+and valleys, intersected by streams: on the right a view of the Bay of La
+Forêt, where extensive oyster-culture is going on. After a tedious journey
+with miserable horses, we reached Concarneau at nine, a distance of little
+more than thirteen miles, having set off a few minutes after four.
+Concarneau proper is on a rocky island, surrounded by fortifications, with
+eight or nine towers and thick walls, and communicating with the mainland
+by means of a drawbridge. This is called the "Ville Close." It consists of
+only one street. When Duke John IV. embarked from here for England, he
+left Sir Robert Knollys governor of the duchy. The constable Du Guesclin,
+after the surrender of Hennebont and Quimperlé, took Concarneau by storm
+and slew all the English garrison, except the captain, who received
+quarter.
+
+Opposite the island is the faubourg Sainte Croix, which is more populous
+than the Ville Close, and where all the business of the place is carried
+on. The sardine fishery, from June to November, occupies two-thirds of the
+population. From three to four hundred vessels are employed with five men
+to each boat. Calm weather is most favourable for fishing. The sardines
+are taken in large seine nets, one side floating with corks on the surface
+of the water, the other falling vertically. The sardines, attracted by the
+bait, try to force themselves through the meshes of the net, and are
+caught by their gills. The bait used is called "rogue:" the best is
+composed of the roe of the cod-fish, pounded and steeped in salt water for
+several days; sometimes the roe and flesh of the mackerel is used. Rogue
+is made in Norway and Denmark, but principally at Drontheim, and is very
+expensive, costing about sixpence the lb.; hence an inferior bait is
+substituted, composed of shrimps and other small crustacea, with fish
+salted, and the heads of anchovies, all pounded and putrified together.
+But this kind of decomposed bait is forbidden by the fishery laws. The
+employment of it accounts for the rareness of good sardines, as the
+remaining of such a substance in the body of the animal cannot fail of
+corrupting it. It is a pretty sight to behold the little fleet employed in
+the sardine fishery return in the evening, laden with the results of the
+day’s work. The fish, when landed, are counted out into baskets, shaken in
+the water, and taken up to one of the curing-houses: of these there are
+about sixty in Concarneau. In the first shed we saw above fifty women
+employed in taking off their heads—"detêter" it is called—an operation
+they effect with great dexterity. With one cut at the back of the neck the
+head is separated and the fish "éventré" at the same time.
+
+The sardines are next placed in little wire trays, with divisions like a
+double gridiron, and fried or dipped in boiling oil, an operation
+principally performed by the women of Pont l’Abbé, who are supposed, like
+the Germans of our baking and sugar-refining houses, to be peculiarly
+constituted to resist heat. The gridirons are then hung up to drain. The
+sardines are next packed in tin boxes, cold oil poured over them, and the
+boxes soldered down. From 800 to 900 boxes are placed in a boiler and
+boiled for half an hour to test the boxes, and those which leak are put
+aside. They are of English tin, and the making of them is the winter’s
+occupation. Finally, the boxes are stamped with the name of the
+establishment, and packed in deal cases for exportation. The sardine is a
+very delicate fish, and easily decays. It is only taken out of the net
+with a rake (_raquette_); in summer, numbers are spoiled from being heaped
+in the boats, and at whatever hour the boats come in the fish go through
+the whole process of curing, as they will not keep till the next day.
+Concarneau exports from 15,000 to 20,000 barrels of sardines annually.
+Only a part are "anchoitée," that is, preserved like the anchovies of the
+Mediterranean, the others are salted in casks; and quantities, only
+slightly salted, are packed in baskets, to be sent to the provincial
+markets. It is estimated that twelve hundred million fish have been caught
+this year. The sardine fishery extends along the whole western coast of
+Brittany from Douarnenez to the Loire.
+
+One of the curiosities of Concarneau is its aquarium, under the direction
+of M. Guillon. It consists of six cisterns, made by the blasting of the
+solid rock, and comprising an area of large extent, within a walled
+enclosure. In these cisterns the water is renewed at each turn of the tide
+through narrow openings in the wall. Three of these reservoirs are
+reserved for fish, the others for crustacea—lobsters and langoustes. Of
+these they keep from 10,000 to 15,000 at a time, and send them off daily,
+when fattened, to Paris and the principal markets of France. It was
+curious to see the dread shown by the common lobster to the langouste.
+They all were adhering to the sides of the reservoirs as if afraid to
+encounter their more powerful companions. Quantities of turbot, also
+reared for sale, were in one of the cisterns, darting with the greatest
+rapidity in the water when the keeper threw in pieces of sardines for them
+to eat. At the end of these cisterns is a building, with every arrangement
+for the culture of fishes—rows of little troughs, and other vessels, to
+contain them. Many of the fish are so tame, they came immediately to the
+keeper on his making a noise in the water with his fingers. Here are fish
+of every description, and naturalists have every facility of studying
+their habits. Among others, we saw the graceful little sea-horse or
+hippocampus, a native of the seas of Brittany as well as of the
+Mediterranean.
+
+[Illustration: 30. Dolmen. Trégunc.]
+
+From Concarneau to Quimperlé is a distance of above eighteen miles. The
+road runs near the sea, over a large tract of land covered with furze
+(ajonc), which, in Brittany, grows from five to six feet high, forming a
+solid impenetrable mass. Huge blocks of granite are scattered about in
+every direction, jutting out from among the furze—menhirs, cromlechs, and
+dolmens—a perfect wilderness of Celtic remains. We drove over an extent of
+several miles of furze-covered hills and heathy land. Before we reached
+the village of Trégunc we stopped to see a large dolmen on the side of the
+road, and further to the right a rocking-stone, twelve feet long and nine
+feet thick, standing about fifteen feet from the ground, the second
+largest in Brittany. It is poised by a little projection, like an inverted
+cone, upon another rock lying half-buried in the ground. The upper block
+can easily be set in motion by the hand. It is called by the country
+people "La pierre aux maris trompés," and was formerly consulted by
+husbands to test the fidelity of their wives. Even now the partner of a
+faithless wife is said to be incapable of giving to the stone the rocking
+motion it so easily receives from another.
+
+[Illustration: 31. Rocking Stone. Trégunc.]
+
+On the left we passed the majestic ruins of the castle of Rustéphan,
+_i. e._ Run, mound, of Stephen, having been built by Stephen Count of
+Penthièvre at the beginning of the twelfth century. It belonged in the
+thirteenth to Blanche of Castile, the mother of St. Louis. The present
+edifice dates from the fifteenth. One of the sides remaining has a
+cylindrical tower with pinnacled doorway, and the windows have stone
+mullions.
+
+[Illustration: 32. Château of Rustéphan.]
+
+Pursuing our road through blocks of granite, we descended into the valley
+of Pontaven, the town of millers, according to the old saying—
+
+
+    “Pont Aven, ville de renom;
+    Quatorze moulins, deux maisons;”
+
+
+a little port built upon rocks, at the foot of two elevated mountains,
+over which are scattered masses of granite boulders, obstructing the
+course of the river which bounds over them. The banks are lined with woody
+slopes; wooden bridges cross the river at intervals; mills are established
+on the ledges of the rocks on its sides; and the noise of the mills, with
+that of the sparkling river tumbling through the rocks in waterfalls, keep
+up a perpetual din. Pontaven is celebrated for the quantity of its salmon:
+so much is taken, that it used to be said that the millers fattened their
+pigs upon this fish, which was literally true, as they took the small
+salmon, called glésils, in nets (_poches_) for that purpose. Salmon now is
+very dear. At the mouth of the Pontaven river was a castle, whose
+proprietor had the privilege of firing upon the fishing-boats which
+returned up the river without giving to the castellan their finest fish,
+which his steward went down to select. Pontaven is seven and a half miles
+from Bannalec, the nearest railway station. After remaining a few hours we
+drove on to Quimperlé—in Breton, Kemper (confluence) Ellé—so called,
+because it is at the confluence of two rivers, the Elle and Isole:—
+
+
+    “Vous reverrai-je encore, ô fleuve de l’Ellé,
+    Vous, Izôle, où mon cœur est toujours rappellé!
+    Les eaux sombres de l’Ellé, claire ceux de l’Izôle;
+    De ces bords enchantés je dirais chaque saule.”
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Quimperlé is a great resort for fishing, the Quimperlé salmon and trout
+being renowned throughout Brittany, and even at Paris. This town is
+beautifully situated, surrounded by high hills, in a valley, watered by
+these bright rivers, the hills covered with gardens, orchards, the
+Ursuline, Capucine, and other convents, and crowned by the steeples of the
+Gothic church of St. Michael. Its principal building is the church of St.
+Croix, formerly that of a Benedictine abbey, celebrated for its riches.
+The island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer then belonged to it. It is a most singular
+edifice, built in the eleventh century, after the model of the church of
+the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. In 1862 it fell down, but is at present
+in course of restoration, after its original plan. The old abbey buildings
+are now occupied by the Prefecture. We were given permission to pass
+through the convent garden—the workmen and building materials having
+blocked up the other entrances—to see the crypt in which is the tomb of
+Saint Gurloës, first abbot of Quimperlé. His effigy, with crosier in hand,
+his feet resting on a dragon, lies upon a monument, about three feet high,
+with an opening in the lower part. The saint—Saint Urlose, as the Bretons
+call him—is invoked principally for the gout, and persons so afflicted
+crawl through the hole under the tomb, where, suspended by chains, is an
+iron hook. They twist a lock of their hair round this hook, and tear it
+off with violence, hoping to propitiate the saint by this
+mortification—evidently a remnant of heathen times, when hair was
+sacrificed to deities or to the memory of departed friends.
+
+At Quimperlé was buried John de Montfort, rival of Charles of Blois for
+the ducal crown. Sent to Paris under a safe-conduct by the Dauphin John,
+Philip of Valois had him shut up in the Louvre, whence he escaped, after a
+captivity of three years, to England. Edward III. espoused his cause and
+granted him some troops. After an unsuccessful attack upon Quimper, De
+Montfort died (1345) at Hennebont, and was buried in the church of the
+Dominicans at Quimperlé. He appointed Edward III. guardian of his son, and
+Edward immediately occupied Quimperlé and caused money to be struck in his
+name. Lord Lewis of Spain, on the side of Charles of Blois, made a descent
+upon Quimperlé at the head of 6000 men, and pillaged the whole country. On
+the news reaching Sir Walter Manny, he hastened to meet the enemy, took
+possession of their fleet, and made such carnage of the soldiers, that
+they were all killed or taken prisoners, and Lewis of Spain escaped with
+difficulty. The country about Quimperlé is beautiful—wood and water in
+every direction. The department of Finistère is traversed by three hundred
+streams, and has an extent of nearly four hundred miles of coast. We were
+advised to go and see the rood-screen of the chapel of Rosgrand, but had
+no time. We visited the ruins of the church of St. Columban. Above a
+round-arched doorway is a beautiful flamboyant window, between two
+canopied niches. We next walked up to the Place near St. Michel, where a
+cattle-market was being held. The Breton peasants, with their long shaggy
+uncombed hair hanging round their shoulders—they comb and wash only on
+fête days—their dirty canvas bragou bras, patched coats, and sabots with
+tufts of straw crammed in, looked more dirty than it is possible to
+imagine. Cleanliness is the last of the Breton virtues. The market and the
+fair are the two great events of the country, and people flock from great
+distances to sell their merchandise. But of all extraordinary animals is
+the Breton pig, as tall as a donkey; a lean, long-necked, ragged, bristly,
+savage-looking beast, as ill kept as its master, and it runs like a
+greyhound when approached. The Breton cow is very small, small as the
+Kerry cows of Ireland, very pretty and very productive. The Breton butter
+is proverbially good, and is given out most liberally, in lumps as big as
+loaves, at the tables-d’hôte. It is brought to market in jars which the
+women carry upon their heads. It is to the Queen-Duchess that Brittany,
+and indeed all France, owes the privilege of eating butter in Lent.  It
+was forbidden as animal food by the laws of the Church, and oil, a
+vegetable production, ordered as a substitute.  In 1491, Anne solicited of
+Rome, for herself and household, permission to eat butter on fast-days,
+alleging, as a plea, that Brittany did not produce oil. Encouraged by this
+favour, Brittany obtained the same indulgence, and it was acquired
+successively by the other provinces of France; but all are originally
+indebted for the privilege to the good Queen-Duchess Anne.
+
+Next day, leaving the department of Finistère, we entered that of
+Morbihan, and went by rail to Lorient on the river Scorff, here joined by
+the Blavet. It was formerly the seat of the French East India Company; it
+is now one of the five military ports of France and the residence of a
+maritime Prefect. In the Place Bisson is the statue of a young officer of
+the French navy, a native of Guemené-sur-Scorff (Morbihan). When
+commanding, in 1827, a brig in the Greek Archipelago, he was attacked by
+two pirate vessels. Nine out of his fifteen men were killed and himself
+wounded; the enemy crowded on the deck. Desiring the survivors of his crew
+to jump overboard, "Now," cried he to the pilot, "is the moment for
+revenge!" and, setting fire to the powder-magazine, he blew up himself,
+his ship, and the pirates who had boarded her. Next morning the bodies of
+seventy Greeks lay on the sea-shore, showing the success of his
+self-devotion. The pilot, who, with four sailors, was saved, received the
+decoration of the Legion of Honour. On the pedestal of Bisson’s statue is
+an inscription, concluding with these words: "Mort en héros, pour son roi
+et sa patrie, ses amis le pleurent, la France le regrette, et ses frères
+d’armes envient son sort."
+
+From here we proceeded to Hennebont (Breton, "old bridge"), famous, in the
+War of Succession, for its heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, during the
+captivity of her husband, Jean de Montfort, who had been taken prisoner at
+Nantes and carried off to Paris. Jeanne, who, as Froissart says, had the
+courage of a man and the heart of a lion, placed herself at the head of
+his party. Like another Maria Theresa, she presented herself before the
+Breton lords, with her infant son in her arms, and received their oaths of
+allegiance. She then joined in the defence of Hennebont, which was
+invested by Charles of Blois. Clothed in armour and mounted on a
+war-horse, she galloped up and down the streets, encouraging the
+inhabitants. She ordered the ladies of her suite and other women of the
+place to cut short their "keytels," carry the stones to the ramparts, and
+transport pots of quick-lime to throw down upon the enemy. At the head of
+300 horsemen, the Countess, who rode better than any squire, sallied out
+of the town, attacked and burnt the enemy’s camp, retreated to Auray, and,
+a few days after, re-entered Hennebont, with banners flying and trumpets
+sounding. But the blockade was so close that provisions were wanting, and
+the garrison compelled her to agree to a capitulation, unless within three
+days assistance arrived from England. The time was on the point of
+expiring, and a herald had approached the gate of the city to receive the
+keys in the name of Charles of Blois, when the Countess, from her window,
+perceived at sunrise the English fleet entering the port in full sail. She
+exclaimed, "We are saved!" The siege was raised, and the Countess, says
+Froissart, kissed Sir Walter Manny and all his companions, one after the
+other, two or three times, like a noble and valiant dame. "Better,"
+observed Charles, when he heard the news, "that Jeanne, instead of her
+lord, had been shut up in the Louvre." He left the carrying on of the
+siege to Lewis of Spain, and proceeded to Vannes and Auray. Some fragments
+of walls are all that remain of Jeanne de Montfort’s castle, which was
+situated on a height on the other side of the river in the "Vieille
+ville." The town on the left bank of the Blavet is called the "Ville
+neuve" and the "Ville close," being surrounded by walls. Large vessels
+ascend the Blavet to Hennebont. It is traversed by a light and elegant
+railway viaduct of twelve arches. We saw on the quay a quantity of red
+iron-ore from Bilbao.
+
+Hennebont is a very pretty town; the principal building is the church of
+Notre Dame-de-Paradis, of the sixteenth century, with a fine square stone
+tower, surmounted by a beautiful spire, and a tall porch, forming one side
+of the tower. This handsome church has lately been restored. The scenery
+about the Blavet is very pretty—the banks wooded, and fertile fields. We
+took a boat and rowed up the river, passing the ruined Abbaye de la Joie,
+where a hideous château has been built. This was a Cistercian convent,
+founded in the thirteenth century by Blanche of Navarre, wife of Duke John
+I. (_le Roux_). The chapel of Notre Dame-de-Paradis formerly belonged to
+the convent; but when the parish church was demolished, the Abbey ceded
+this chapel to the town, reserving the privilege of a separate seat for
+the Abbess, who, on the Sunday after St. John’s day, had her crosier
+carried before her in state by one of her vassals at high mass and
+vespers.
+
+From Hennebont we went by rail to Auray, and established ourselves for
+some time in the Pavillon d’en Haut, a most comfortable hotel. Auray is
+situated on the slope of a hill, the streets narrow and steep.
+
+Our first drive was to Ste. Anne d’Auray, one of the most famous places of
+pilgrimage in Brittany, on account of its miraculous well and church. It
+has been called the Mecca of Brittany. Here, according to the legend in
+the seventeenth century, Ste. Anne appeared to a countryman, and directed
+him to dig in a certain field, where he would find her image, and to build
+a chapel there. Guided by a miraculous light, Nicolazic discovered the
+statue, and erected a chapel on the site.
+
+[Illustration: 33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d’Auray.]
+
+The spring where Ste. Anne first appeared is now enclosed in a large basin
+of cut stone. Near it is the church, in course of reconstruction. It
+stands in a court surrounded by covered galleries for the shelter of the
+pilgrims. Two flights of steps, called the Scala Sancta (after that of St.
+John Lateran), lead to a platform over the three entrance gates, upon
+which is an altar surmounted by a cupola, where mass can be heard by
+20,000 persons. The steps are ascended by the pilgrims barefooted, as they
+do at Rome. The fête of Ste. Anne is celebrated on the 26th of July, when
+pilgrims arrive from all parts of Brittany to visit the miraculous statue,
+to ascend the holy staircase, and to drink or wash in the sacred fountain.
+It was a fête day when we visited Ste. Anne. There was a large assemblage
+of people, and booths were erected round the court, where were sold
+rosaries and the wire brooches, with scarlet and blue tufts of worsted,
+called _épinglettes_, worn by the Bretons in their hats as a token of
+their having made a pilgrimage. We saw exhibited the photograph of a young
+lady, said to have lately recovered from paralysis after bathing in the
+holy well. So world-wide is the fame of Ste. Anne d’Auray that a traveller
+mentions having seen at her shrine an embroidered altar-cloth of Irish
+damask, with "Irlande: Reconnaissance à Sainte Anne, 1850," woven into the
+pattern. The convent, with its enclosure, the Scala Sancta, fountain, and
+miraculous bush, all date from the seventeenth century. There is a railway
+station for Ste. Anne, within two miles of the church.
+
+Returning to Auray, we went to the Chartreuse, which owes its origin to
+the chapel of Saint Michel-du-Champ founded (1382) by John de Montfort,
+afterwards Duke John IV., on the spot where, in 1364, he gained the battle
+of Auray, which obtained for him the duchy of Brittany. The chapel is
+close to the railway station. In the fifteenth century it was given to the
+Chartreux, and became a monastery of the order which existed until the
+Revolution. The present church was built at the end of the reign of Louis
+XV.
+
+The battle was fought on the marshy plain by the side of the muddy river
+Alrée. It is fully described by Froissart. In the two armies were
+assembled all the chivalry of England, France and Brittany. The
+Breton-English were commanded by Sir John Chandos; the French, by Du
+Guesclin; with de Montfort were also Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh
+Calverley and Olivier de Clisson; with Charles of Blois, Du Guesclin, the
+Comte d’Auxerre, the Viscomtes of Rohan and Tournemine, and Charles de
+Dinan. At the moment of the battle, the white greyhound of Charles of
+Blois deserted his master and ran to his rival de Montfort, who was on
+horseback, and caressed him, standing on his hind paws. De Montfort
+recognised the dog by his collar, ornamented with the arms of Brittany,
+and this incident passed through his army as a favourable omen. The dog
+was known to have been the gift of a witch to Duke John the Good, who
+bequeathed it to his niece Jeanne, wife of Charles of Blois.
+
+Both armies heard mass, confessed themselves, and received the Communion
+before they opened the battle. The war cry of Charles was, "In the name of
+God and St. Ives," Montfort repeated the motto of his family, "Malo mori
+quam fœdari" (better to die than be sullied), and his troops advanced to
+the onset to the cry of "Malo." Both chiefs wore the ermines emblazoned on
+their armour and their standards; and relatives and friends were ranged in
+battle array against each other. Following the tactics which had been
+successful at Cressy and Poitiers, Chandos quietly awaited the impetuous
+attack of the Franco-Breton army, which was unable to shake their
+antagonists, who returned the charge. The melée was fearful, but the
+battle was in favour of the English. Charles performed prodigies of
+valour. In vain Rohan and Laval rallied round him with the flower of the
+Breton knights; the prince was a prisoner, and an English soldier
+despatched him by plunging a dagger into his throat. Du Guesclin sustained
+all the force of the fight with his heavy steel mace, his battle-axe and
+his sword; but his mace was broken, the handle of his axe carried away,
+his sword shivered, and he had no other weapon left but his gauntlets, and
+was nearly overpowered by numbers, when Chandos, who fought with a
+battle-axe, entreated him to surrender, "Messire Bertrand, rendez-vous,
+cette journée n’est pas vôtre; il faut céder à la fortune, une autre fois
+vous serez plus heureux." Convinced of the truth of Chandos’ words, Du
+Guesclin surrendered to him the handle of his sword. Beaumanoir was among
+the prisoners; and Clisson, who never left the field, lost an eye in the
+conflict.
+
+A hair shirt was found, with thick knotted cords round the waist, upon the
+body of Charles, for he delighted in deeds of mortification. He often used
+to place pebbles in his shoes, and once walked two leagues barefoot in the
+snow to visit the relics of St. Ives, in consequence of which he was laid
+up for three months. He was buried at Guingamp, and his widow and children
+desired his canonisation; but de Montfort, fearing such a step would
+render him unpopular in Brittany, persuaded Pope Gregory XI. to refuse it.
+
+Du Guesclin, after he recovered his liberty, was destined, three years
+later, to be a second time the prisoner of the English at Navarrete, when
+the Black Prince replaced on his throne the cruel, perfidious Don Pedro.
+When Sir Hugh Calverley asked for the freedom of Du Guesclin, he was met
+by the reply, "Il ne faut pas lâcher ce dogue de Bretagne, si fatal aux
+Anglais." It was represented to the Black Prince that report ascribed his
+detention to fear or jealousy; upon which he sent for Du Guesclin, who
+told him he was tired of listening to the squeaking of the mice in his
+prison, and longed to hear the nightingales of Brittany. He named his own
+ransom at 100,000 florins, the Black Prince reduced it to 60,000; and the
+Princess of Wales contributed 20,000. It was paid by Charles V. "Had it
+been ten millions," says his biographer, "France would have paid it all."
+In the Musée des Archives at Paris is preserved an order of Charles V. to
+his treasurer, to prepare 30,000 Spanish doublons, to be paid to the
+Prince of Wales for the ransom of Du Guesclin, adding, "il touche notre
+honneur grandement." This is the most ancient royal autograph in the
+collection. Charles calls him Bertran de Caclin. The Constable, in a deed
+of gift of the Château of Cachant to the Duke of Anjou, signs "Bertrain."
+
+A school for deaf and dumb occupies the Chartreuse, directed by the Sœurs
+de la Sagesse. We were shown round by a deaf and dumb guide, who made us
+write on his slate what we could not explain on our fingers, and he also
+wrote his reply. He showed us a series of paintings, copies of Le Sœur’s
+Life of St. Bruno in the Louvre, which are said to have been executed by
+the monks of the Chartreuse. Attached to the church is a sepulchral chapel
+containing the bones of the victims of the unfortunate descent on
+Quiberon, when the immense armament of French royalists who were landed in
+British ships, perished. They were commanded by d’Hervilly, an old officer
+of the Constitutional Guard of Louis XVI., and he had for lieutenant Count
+Charles de Sombreuil, whose sister had rendered the name illustrious by
+her heroism in the Reign of Terror. They landed at Carnac, where Georges
+Cadoudal and a band of Chouans awaited their arrival. Hoche, at the head
+of a republican army, hastened to meet them. Every thing depended upon
+their rapidity of action, but three days were lost in disputes about the
+command among the emigrant generals. They took possession of the peninsula
+of Quiberon, a strip of land about six miles long by three wide, united to
+the mainland by a narrow tongue of sand a league in extent, called the
+Falaise. Fort Penthièvre, placed on the plateau of a steep rock, and
+bathed on each side by the sea between the peninsula and the Falaise,
+defends the approach by land. The emigrant army was protected by the
+English fleet which lay in the bay of Quiberon, one of the safest and most
+sheltered on the coast. The defence of Fort Penthièvre was entrusted to
+some republican soldiers taken from the English prisons. In a night
+encounter d’Hervilly was killed.  Hoche marched upon Fort Penthièvre,
+which was given up to him by the traitor soldiers. La Puisaye threw
+himself into a boat and gained the English fleet. The emigrant army was
+thrown into the greatest disorder; the "Bleus," as the republican soldiers
+were called, pressed close upon them, and Sombreuil, driven to the water’s
+edge, and deserted by his troops, offered to capitulate, on the condition
+that the lives should be spared of all save himself. "Yes," cried the
+republicans with one voice. They demanded that the fire of the English
+corvette should cease, and there being no boat at hand, Gesril du Papeu
+swam to the English ship, and having delivered his message, returned and
+surrendered himself prisoner. It is said that Hoche considered the
+capitulation sacred, but Tallien arrived armed with full powers from the
+Convention to treat the emigrants according to law. The prisoners had been
+conducted to Auray; Hoche, unwilling to be the witness of acts he could
+not prevent, returned to Brest. Not one French officer would consent to be
+a member of the military commission who were to try, or rather condemn,
+the captives. It was composed of Belgians and Swiss, and it was difficult
+to induce the soldiers to execute the sentence. Sombreuil and a few others
+were shot at Vannes. The execution of the rest took place in a field now
+called the Champ des Martyrs. They were brought out in twenties, and
+placed before a trench, dug beforehand, and shot. The massacre lasted
+three weeks. In all there were 952 victims. Two chapels have been erected;
+the one attached to the Chartreuse, and the other on the Champ des
+Martyrs. That in the Chartreuse has inscribed over the front, in letters
+of gold, "France in tears has raised it." The interior walls are overlaid
+with black and white marble, with two marble bas-reliefs by David of
+Angers: one representing the Duc d’Angoulême praying over the bones of the
+victims in 1814, when they were transferred from the Champ des Martyrs to
+the Chartreuse; the other, the laying of the first stone of the mausoleum
+by the Duchesse d’Angoulême in 1823. In 1829 the solemn inauguration of
+the expiatory monument took place; and it must have been touching to the
+spectators to have assisted at the ceremony with the Duchesse d’Angoulême,
+daughter of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, niece of the martyr saint the
+Princess Elizabeth, and herself long subjected to imprisonment and
+indignities. Only one year after this ceremony she again took the road to
+exile, where she ended her troublous life, a pattern of piety and
+resignation—
+
+            “Sa mort fut le soir d’un beau jour.”
+
+In the centre of the mausoleum is the vault containing the bones, and over
+it a sarcophagus on a pedestal, upon which are inscribed the names of the
+victims. On the sarcophagus are busts of Sombreuil and the other chiefs of
+the expedition; and a profile of Monseigneur d’Hercé, Bishop of Dol, one
+of the victims. Of the bas-reliefs on the mausoleum, one represents the
+heroic act of Gesril du Papeu, with the words "I hoped in God, and shall
+not be afraid;" the other, the landing of the emigrants on the shore of
+Carnac, with "All my brothers are dead for Israel;"—these inscriptions are
+all in Latin. Others are round the monument:—"Unworthily slain for God and
+the King;"—"Precious before God is the blood of his saints;"—"For our
+lives and our laws;"—"You will receive a greater glory and an eternal
+name." Our deaf and dumb guide let a light down into the vault to show us
+the bones of the victims, collected in one common sepulchre. The
+Chartreuse convent therefore commemorates two great tragedies of history:
+in ancient times the battle of Auray, which caused the death of Charles of
+Blois, the captivity of Du Guesclin, and the slaughter of the flower of
+Breton chivalry by the swords of their fellow Bretons. In modern days, the
+massacre of the royalists at Quiberon—both the horrible consequence of
+civil war.
+
+We then repaired to the "Champ des Martyrs," where took place the
+execution of the royalists. At the end of an avenue of silver firs is the
+expiatory chapel, with a granite portico, in the Doric style. Above is
+inscribed, "It is here they fell," and "The memory of the just shall be
+eternal."
+
+On the tomb is written, "Tombeau des royalistes courageux defenseurs de
+l’autel et du trône, ils tombèrent martyrs de leurs nobles efforts. Quel
+Français pénetré des droits de la couronne ignore ce qu’il doit à ces
+illustres morts."
+
+The inn Pavilion d’en Haut is particularly comfortable and reasonable, and
+the people very obliging. Wishing to taste the crêpes we had seen before,
+they procured some, and gave them to us hot—we thought they resembled a
+greasy crumpet.
+
+[Illustration: 34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.]
+
+Auray is a good central point for visiting the Celtic remains:—menhirs,
+dolmens, cromlechs, all of which are as plentiful here as are calvaries,
+shrines, and churches in Léon. They seem all concentrated on these dreary
+wild landes, sometimes covered with furze bushes, at others strewn along
+the coast.
+
+Next day we drove to Locmariaker, nine miles from Auray, through Crach. On
+the right is the river or estuary of that name; over which a bridge is
+contemplated at La Trinité, to communicate with Carnac. Locmariaker is at
+the extremity of the peninsula formed by the rivers of Crach and Auray, at
+the entrance of the Morbihan. It must have been a place of some importance
+in the time of the Roman occupation of Gaul, as there are the remains of a
+circus, whose walls now enclose the cemetery, of a Gallo-Roman house, with
+baths, frescoed walls, and marble pavement. We picked up some fragments of
+Roman bricks which lie strewn upon the ground in great abundance. Midst
+these Roman remains are gigantic menhirs, barrows, and dolmens, vestiges
+of a still more ancient race. Locmariaker has two large tumuli, both vast
+tombs.
+
+[Illustration: 35. Sculptured Stone. Manné er Hroëck. Locmariaker.]
+
+We first visited the Manné-er-Hroëk, the Montagne de la Fée, or de la
+Femme, which bears in the marine charts the name of "Butte de César," for
+it was the fashion with antiquaries to attribute to Cæsar and the Romans
+every Celtic monument, although bearing no resemblance whatever to any
+work of these conquerors. The Montagne de la Fée is a galgal or tumulus of
+elliptic form, about thirty feet high, formed of dry stones.  It was
+opened in 1863, and found to contain a sepulchral chamber or dolmen,
+outside of which lay a granite stone above three feet long, inscribed with
+various figures, and, in the middle, a cartouche, with hatchet-shaped
+characters. There were also found a number of celts (stone hatchets or
+knives), a green jasper necklace, and some glass beads, which have been
+transferred to the museum at Vannes.  The guide who furnished the light
+and showed us the grotto is the widow of a Polish officer. She had a
+Scotch terrier, which she wanted us to accept.  The legend of the mound is
+this:—A widow had the misfortune of losing her only solace, her son,
+compelled by law to embark for foreign lands. Years rolled by; he did not
+return. All said he was lost; but the heart of a mother hopes for ever,
+and the sad Armorican went every day to the point of Kerpenhir, whence she
+surveyed the ocean, and searched the depths of the horizon with tearful
+eyes for the purple sail(16) which was to bring joy and peace to her
+dwelling. One day, when she was returning sad as usual to her desolate
+home, she was accosted by an old woman, who enquired the cause of her
+troubles; and, on hearing them, advised her to heap a pile of stones, so
+that, mounting on the summit, she might see to a greater distance, and
+perhaps discern the long looked-for vessel. During the whole night the two
+women worked, and carried in their aprons the stones they gathered on the
+heath. In the morning their task was finished, and the Bretonne was scared
+to see the enormous heap that had been piled together; but the other
+quieted her fears, and helped her to climb to the top, whence soon the
+happy mother beheld the vessel of her son. The fairy, her assistant, had
+disappeared. This story evidently bears a vague tradition of this tumulus
+having been raised by a woman, and of some maritime expedition made by him
+for whom it was probably destined. The name of fairy is attached in
+Brittany to everything—mountains, springs, grottoes, rocks; every accident
+in nature is explained by a fairy origin.
+
+The next object we saw is also attributed to the fairies, the great
+menhir, called Men-er-Groách, or stone of the fairies. It is the largest
+menhir known, but it has been broken into three pieces, some say by
+thunder. Put together, it measures about 67 feet in length, and is 16 feet
+in diameter. The wonder is how it was placed there, for it is little less
+than the obelisk of St. Peter’s, which took 800 to 900 men and 70 horses
+nearly a year to raise,—a work which was the great triumph of Fontana the
+engineer. The menhir is estimated to be one-third the height of Notre Dame
+at Paris.
+
+Lying also prostrate on the ground, by the side of it, is a smaller
+menhir, which is, however, above 30 feet long.
+
+[Illustration: 36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture. Dol des Marchands.
+Locmariaker.]
+
+Close to these gigantic menhirs is the large dolmen (Breton, _daul_,
+table, and _mœn_, stone), known as the "Table de César," or the "Dol des
+Marchands." We walked under it to see the curious hatchet-shaped figure
+sculptured on one of the upper stones. The common belief is that these
+dolmens or table-stones were Druidic altars, and the guides will show you
+the furrows for the blood of the human sacrifice to run down; but human
+bones having been found under some of these dolmens, lead one to suppose
+they were tombs. In the Scandinavian countries the peasants call them
+"Giants’ Graves."
+
+The other great tumulus of Locmariaker is the Mont Heleu or Manné-Lud,
+also opened in 1863, and supposed to have been the sepulchre of a number
+of persons, perhaps of a whole generation. It has, like the Montagne de la
+Feé, a galleried chamber or dolmen, the floor formed of an enormous slab
+across the centre, on which is a sculpture resembling a celt; other
+sculptured stones were found in the same chamber. At the other end of the
+dolmen was an avenue of stones, some supporting the skeletons of horses’
+heads. This tumulus was probably the tomb of some great warrior: the
+horses’ skeletons were the remains of a sacrifice, and the human bones of
+beings who had been immolated to accompany the earthly remains of their
+great chief to another world.
+
+We took a boat for Gavr’ Inis, or the Goat Island, and embarked on the
+Morbihan (Breton, Little Sea), an inland sea, that gives its name to the
+department. Shut out from the ocean by the two peninsulas of Locmariaker
+and Rhuys, which form a narrow gully between the points of Kerpenhir and
+Port Navalo, this sea contains an archipelago of islands, numbering,
+according to tradition, as many as the days in the year. Of these, the Ile
+aux Moines is the largest. The arms of the sea forming the rivers of Auray
+and Vannes run into it. The navigation of the Morbihan is very dangerous,
+the ocean entering it by this narrow opening in three distinct currents;
+it is an endless labyrinth of rocks and water; its granite shores, torn by
+the sea, are indented with creeks, capes, and inlets.
+
+[Illustration: 37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr’ Inis.]
+
+[Illustration: 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr’ Inis.]
+
+Gavr’ Inis is a small island, surmounted by a tumulus, which forms a
+conspicuous object, seen from all the mounds and dolmens around. It is a
+galgal of heaped stones, in the centre of which is a dolmen or galleried
+chamber, which was opened in 1832, and is the most curious monument in the
+Morbihan. The gallery, with its square sepulchral chamber at the end, is
+above fifty feet long and about five wide, composed of two rows of granite
+menhirs, or upright stones, which form the sides, with horizontal stones
+resting on them, ending in a chamber consisting of eight menhirs, with an
+enormous slab, thirteen feet long, placed over them horizontally to form
+the roof, and another, nearly as large, to form the floor. These stones
+are of granite, and no cement is used to unite them.  They are covered
+with incised figures of unknown meaning: sculptures in concentric whorls
+or circles, as if tattoed like the cheek of a New Zealander; and the only
+forms to be distinguished are serpent-like figures, and the representation
+of an axe, similar to those to be seen in the Grotte des Fées, the Dol des
+Marchands, and the Manné-Lud. In one of the side stones of the chamber are
+two handle-looking projections, with a recess behind, said, probably
+erroneously, to be the place where the victims were bound. No celts or
+other objects of antiquity were found in the grotto, which must have been
+previously rifled of its contents. These sculptures cannot have been
+executed without the use of metal instruments. There are also Celtic
+remains in the Ile aux Moines and other islands of the Morbihan, but our
+guide did not encourage us to extend our sail to visit them. The current
+between the island and Port Navalo is sometimes of great rapidity and
+violence.
+
+Next day we went to Carnac to see its marvellous avenues of menhirs. The
+Celtic remains here are of a different character from those of
+Locmariaker. Here there is quantity, at Locmariaker size. The monuments of
+the last are covered with strange characters and signs; in Carnac they are
+all plain and silent, according to the laws of the Druids, who prohibited
+writing, in the fear of thereby divulging their mysteries, and also that
+the people might not neglect to cultivate their memories.
+
+
+    “Tout cela eut un sens, et traduisit
+    Une pensée; mais la clé de ce mystère,
+    Où est elle? et qui pourrait dire aujourd’hui
+    Si jamais elle se retrouvera?”—CAYAT DELANDRE.
+
+
+Before reaching Carnac, we stopped at Kermario on the left, and got out of
+the carriage to inspect the army of large menhirs about the windmill. They
+are arranged in eleven rows, some sixteen feet high, placed with the small
+end in the ground. They are all of a sombre grey, many of them clothed
+with straggling lichens of various species. This wild heathy tract was
+covered with the blue flower of the dwarf gentian, and strewed all over
+with menhirs. Before arriving at Carnac, the road passes the avenues of
+Menec, all running in the same direction as those of Kermario, from east
+to west: among these are some of the largest stones. The third large
+group, at Erdeven, we saw on our way from Carnac back to Auray by another
+road.
+
+
+    “D’un passé sans mémoire incertaines reliques,
+    Mystères d’un vieux monde en mystères écrits.”
+                    LAMARTINE.
+
+
+We do not pretend to enter into the various explanations attempted of this
+wonderful monument. The legend at Carnac is, that St. Cornély, pursued by
+an army of pagans, fled towards the sea; finding no boat at hand, and on
+the point of being taken, he transformed the soldiers into stones.
+
+
+                    “Les soldats de deux rois idolâtres
+    Poursuivaient notre saint dejà l’ami des pâtres,
+    Et sur un chariot trainé par de grands bœufs
+    Le bons vieux Cornéli se sauvait devant eux;
+    Or, voici que la mer, terrible aussi l’arrête;
+    Alors, le saint prélat, du haut de sa charrette
+    Tend la main: les soldats, tels qu’ils étaient rangés,
+    En autant de menhirs, voyez! furent changés.
+    Telle est notre croyance, et personne n’ignore
+    Que le patron des bœufs c’est ici qu’on l’honore;
+    Aux lieux où la charrette et le saint ont passés,
+    Le froment pousse encor plus vert et plus pressé.”
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+St. Cornély is the patron of bullocks. When a beast is ill, his owner buys
+an image of St. Cornély, and hangs it up in the stable till its recovery.
+In the church of Carnac is a series of fresco paintings portraying the
+principal events of his life, and outside, a sculpture representing him
+between two bullocks. The head of St. Cornély is preserved here; the
+pulpit is of forged iron, and in the sacristy is shown a silver gilt
+monstrance of the Louis XIV. period, with a representation of the Supper
+at Emmaus, chased in relief round the foot. We walked to the Mont St.
+Michel, a tumulus of stones with sepulchral dolmen, opened in 1862, but
+now closed. It was found to contain objects of the "Stone" age, a number
+of jade celts from four to sixteen inches long, some perforated beads and
+pendents for a necklace, and there were traces of burnt bones. Like most
+monuments of Celtic origin, these tumuli were regarded with religious
+veneration; and the first teachers of Christianity, to enlist the old
+worship to the cause of truth, marked each of these monuments with the
+symbol of the new faith. Thus the cross was placed on the menhir, and a
+chapel built upon Mont St. Michel, and, as we have before seen, on Mont
+Dol, and other high places of Druidic worship. The little chapel dedicated
+to St. Michel, which surmounts the tumulus, forms a conspicuous landmark
+from every point, and commands a most extensive view over the stones of
+Carnac ranged in their eleven lines, on a treeless plain, the Morbihan,
+and the long dreary peninsula of Quiberon.
+
+Returning by another route, we alighted at the inn at Plouharnel to see a
+collection of jade celts, gold torques, and necklaces of beads, found in
+the neighbourhood, belonging to the landlord, M. Bail, who has them all
+arranged in a frame. They were discovered in a group of dolmens near the
+village, opened in 1830, consisting of three grottos or allées couvertes,
+a kind of triple dolmen, covered over with a mound. The central grotto and
+gallery had been opened before. The second dolmen had also a grotto or
+allée couverte, in which was found an earthen pot, containing ashes and
+three gold necklaces. In the third were some fragments of pottery. Three
+gold necklaces, composed each of a single plate of metal, an inch and a
+half wide, with fragments of the earthen vessels in which they were found,
+together with stone celts and some pieces of bronze, extracted from the
+dolmen, we afterwards saw exhibited in the "Musée du Travail" of the
+Universal Exhibition of 1867. These dolmens belong to a much later period
+of civilisation than those of Locmariaker—to the "Bronze" Age.
+
+[Illustration: 40. Dolmen of Corcorro.]
+
+The number of dolmens in the Morbihan is estimated at 250. In the
+department of Finistère they are set at double the number. All are
+supposed to have been originally covered with earth. The bodies are more
+frequently buried than burnt. The dolmens contain implements of stone and
+bone, occasionally gold and bronze, but never iron. To judge from the
+comparative quantities found in the different departments, it may be
+assumed that they are the work of people who have entered France from the
+west, and have gradually worked their way by the rivers and valleys
+further up the country. In this secluded spot we found a large English
+family located, ten in number; they had been living there several months.
+Before reaching Erdeven, at Kerserho, on a large lande or heathy plain, we
+arrived at another series of the great Carnac army of stones, of which
+they are a continuation. They are arranged in nine parallel rows, as may
+be clearly distinguished by standing upon one of the stones; but the lines
+are rather interrupted by hedges and ditches. Some are menhirs planted
+vertically on the end, others enormous blocks simply laid upon the soil.
+They extend half a league from north to south, more numerous than Carnac,
+but generally not so tall, the highest from ten to twelve feet, but very
+large. The road is strewed with Druidic monuments. At Corcorro, between
+Plouharnel and Erdeven, on a farm, a short distance off the road, is a
+dolmen, the largest in the Morbihan. Its original length appears to have
+been 45 feet; the part preserved is 24 feet by 12 feet wide, and is
+covered with two slabs: one of these is enormous, about six feet wide. It
+is used as a cart-shed, and, when we saw it, contained bundles of hemp and
+a hemp-breaker. One of the top stones overhangs the others, showing the
+dolmen to have been originally larger. A number of ragged children
+clustered upon the top, as if they had been accustomed to group themselves
+for a picture. They effectually prevented any of us sketching the dolmen,
+for, as soon as we began to draw, they all, in number about forty, came
+down from their height and pressed closely around us. From Auray we took a
+carriage to Vannes, a tidal port, one league from the gulf of Morbihan,
+and capital of that department.
+
+Its people, the Veneti, were the head of the Armorican confederation, and
+commanded the fleet in time of war. Their vessels had sails of prepared
+skins, their cables were chains of iron. They traded with the Scilly
+Islands, and brought back tin, copper, skins, slaves, and dogs, objects of
+traffic with other nations. The Armorican confederation made a vigorous
+resistance against Cæsar, who sent round for the Roman fleet and beat them
+in a naval battle in the Morbihan sea. The Romans had attached to their
+ships large sharp scythes which mowed down masts and rigging, and a dead
+calm rendering the enemy’s ships immovable, they were soon taken, burnt,
+or sunk. This battle ended the war with the maritime states of the west.
+Cæsar showed little mercy to the conquered: all the senators were put to
+death, and the rest of the population sold by auction to furnish the
+slave-markets of Italy.
+
+We walked to the promenade, called the "Garenne," where Sombreuil, Renée
+de Hercé, bishop of Dol, and twenty-two others of the emigrants, were
+shot. Sombreuil was about twenty-six or twenty-seven years of age, a
+native of Périgord. He always persisted in the same account of the
+capitulation. His last words were:-"Si j’avais pu imaginer que des
+militaires pussent manquer à leur parole donnée sur le champ de bataille,
+je n’aurais jamais consenti à une capitulation; elle me cause des regrets
+amers qui me suivront jusqu’au tombeau. Adieu, Messieurs, nous trouverons
+justice et clémence devant un tribunal où la fraude des hommes ne saurait
+jamais parvenir." A republican officer offered to bandage his eyes: "Non,"
+he exclaimed, "je veux voir mon ennemi jusqu’au dernier instant."
+Requested to kneel, Sombreuil answered: "Je le veux bien; mais je fais
+observer que je mets un genou pour mon Dieu, et l’autre pour mon roi."
+Thus ended the most ill-fated expedition that history has ever had to
+record.
+
+The cathedral of Vannes has a richly-sculptured north porch of Kersanton
+stone, and another, facing the Rue des Trois Duchesses. Also, a
+Renaissance chapel, called the Chapelle du Saint Sacrament or du Pardon,
+with a hideous roof replacing the original. Adjoining are the remains of
+the elegant cloisters of the cathedral, with basket-handled arcades of the
+fifteenth century. In the cathedral is also the chapel of St. Vincent
+Ferrier, the great preacher of the fifteenth century, whose labours
+extended over almost every country of Europe—Italy, Germany, France,
+Switzerland, and Great Britain. San Vicente Ferrar, a Dominican monk, was
+the son of an attorney, originally of Valencia, in Spain, of which city he
+is the tutelar saint. In Spain he led the way in preaching a crusade
+against the Jews and Moors, who were persecuted by the Inquisition with
+the most cruel bigotry. Invited to Brittany by Duke John V., he fixed
+himself at Vannes, where, after having evangelised the province, he died
+in 1419. He was buried in the cathedral. The Duchess Jeanne de France,
+daughter of Charles VI., was present at his deathbed, and insisted on
+laying him out. By her own desire, she was buried at his feet. Philip II.,
+King of Spain, desired his relics, but did not succeed in obtaining them.
+The little house in which St. Vincent Ferrier lived is preserved (No. 13,
+Rue des Orfèvres). A tiny room, up a narrow staircase, is now converted
+into a chapel, in which are shown the stone which served him as a pillow,
+his lamp, and other relics.
+
+The Maison du Parlement or Château Gaillau is a curious old building, with
+its entrance by a stone staircase and turret. Vannes was the usual
+residence of Dukes John IV. and V., and had formerly three châteaux: La
+Motte, of which the Hôtel de la Préfecture occupies the site; Plaisance,
+half a mile out of the town, where Duke Francis I. died; and La Hermine,
+scene of John IV.’s treacherous imprisonment of the Constable Clisson,
+which was razed in 1614. It had two towers—one demolished in 1770, the
+other still standing, called the "Tour du Connétable," because it was
+within its walls he imprisoned Clisson. The Duke had resolved on his
+death, to prevent the marriage of Clisson’s daughter Marguerite to Jean de
+Bretagne, Count de Penthièvre, son of Charles of Blois.(17) The story is
+well related by d’Argentré.
+
+The Duke of Brittany summoned his barons and knights to a council at
+Vannes, and entertained them in the Castle de la Motte. He behaved in the
+most friendly manner, and invited the Constable, the Lords of Laval and de
+Beaumanoir, to see the castle of Hermine he was building. He led the
+Constable by the hand through the chambers, and when they arrived at the
+keep, said, "Sir Oliver, there’s not a man who understands masonry so well
+as yourself; enter and examine the walls well, and if you say it is
+properly built, it shall remain." The unsuspecting Constable ascended the
+staircase, when the door was closed upon him and he was seized and loaded
+with three pairs of fetters. The Duke ordered him to be put into a sack,
+his hands and feet tied, and to be thrown secretly at night into the sea.
+But the Constable owed his life to the loyalty of Jean Bazvalen, who, like
+another Hubert, did not obey his master’s commands, the laws of his
+sovereign being less sacred in his eyes than the dictates of humanity and
+honour. Clisson was set at liberty, on agreeing to pay 100,000 livres and
+to surrender the town of Jugon and some other fortresses. This perfidious
+attempt occasioned a war of three years, and was retaliated by Clisson’s
+daughter and grandsons upon Duke John V.
+
+The Tour du Connétable, which formed the north-east angle of the Château
+de la Hermine, is now used as a museum of Celtic antiquities, and contains
+various objects collected in the tumuli of the Morbihan. We observed one
+very large jade celt, eighteen inches long, found, we understood, in the
+Butte de Tumiac. At Vannes the States of Brittany held their sittings, and
+here took place the union of that province with France, 1532.
+
+About twelve miles from Vannes is Korn-er-hoët, demesne of the Princess
+Baciocchi, cousin of the Emperor. It was formerly surrounded by woods and
+the interminable lande of Lanvaux, which stretches its desolate length
+along the Morbihan from Baud to Rochefort. This district had been, from
+time immemorial, the abode of some eighty families of gipsies, who lived
+there in clay huts under the rule of a chieftain. The sight of this barren
+wilderness had so impressed the Princess Baciocchi, in a tour she made in
+Brittany in the year 1857, that she obtained the sanction of the Emperor
+to reclaim it. She caused a temporary châlet to be built for her
+occupation at Kern-er-hoët, and, superintending the works herself, in a
+few years effected a wonderful transformation. A model village has been
+formed, with church and schools, a well-ordered agricultural population
+organised, farm-buildings erected, roads macadamised, the barren lande
+drained and reclaimed, and the château surrounded by a well-wooded park.
+
+Great attention has been paid to the details of the dairy farm; all the
+disposable milk is made into Dutch cheese. The cows are those of Brittany
+and Ayrshire; the pigs from England. The whole demesne comprises about
+1300 acres, and the benevolent Princess resides entirely on the scene of
+her labours, among the people whose condition she has so ameliorated.(18)
+
+From Vannes we made an excursion into the peninsula of Rhuys, on the south
+of the Morbihan Sea. We first stopped at Sarzeau, where Lesage, the
+amiable author of ’Gil Blas,’ was born, of whom it was written on his
+epitaph:—
+
+
+    “S’il ne fut pas ami de la fortune,
+    Il fut toujours ami de la vertu.”
+
+
+Then on to the ducal fortress of Sucinio, situated on the borders of the
+ocean. It is a magnificent ruin, built in 1250, by Duke Jean le Roux, to
+deposit his treasures, in case an invasion of the French should compel him
+to leave his duchy. The position is well chosen, its situation on the
+seashore enabling him easily to embark his treasures.
+
+This formidable "coffre fort" was a favourite residence of the Dukes of
+Brittany, who came here as a relief from the cares and ceremonies of a
+Court. Its name, of which Sucinio is a corruption, Soucy-ny-ot, synonymous
+with the Sans-Souci of the great Frederick, shows its intention. This
+locality was long celebrated for its fine air, and its peaceful character.
+Louis XIV. used to say to his courtiers—
+
+
+    “Désirez vous un pays de repos et de délices?
+    Allez habiter l’île de Rhuys.”
+
+
+Partly demolished, Sucinio presents a mass of now only picturesque ruins,
+a curious type of the architecture of the thirteenth century. Five of the
+eight enormous battlemented towers remain, and the flamboyant window of
+the chapel on the upper floor of the building is still preserved. Traces
+of the portcullis and drawbridge are visible. Over the gallery is an
+escutcheon, with a couchant lion holding the arms of Brittany, between two
+stags, also couchant, at the foot of a tree. The sea that bathed the walls
+of the castle has been driven back by the accumulation of mud and the
+crumbling of the walls.
+
+Here was born Arthur III., Comte de Richemont, Constable of France, and
+afterwards Duke of Brittany. This illustrious man, equally great as a
+warrior and politician, does not take his merited place in the page of
+history, owing probably to the partiality of French historians, who were
+always jealous of the glory of Brittany. Except Du Guesclin, no other
+constable has rendered greater service to France.
+
+A prisoner at Agincourt, where he commanded the van, he fought with the
+Maid of Orleans,(19) at Beaugeney, took Talbot captive at Patai,
+reconquered almost the whole of Normandy, entered Paris in 1436, and
+finally expelled the English by the crushing victory of Formigny, having
+staked his honour to drive them out of the kingdom. Seven years after, he
+succeeded to the ducal crown; but such was the confidence of Charles VII.
+in his loyalty, that he retained the supreme command of the French army
+with his new dignity. He reigned only fourteen months. Richmont always
+caused two swords to be carried before him when he appeared in presence of
+the King; a naked sword, as Duke of Brittany, and the other sheathed and
+the point turned downwards, as Constable of France. The title of Earl of
+Richmond, styled by the French Comte de Richmont, dates from the
+Conqueror. Alan Rufus, son of the Earl of Brittany, accompanied Duke
+William to England, and commanded the rear of the army at the battle of
+Hastings. For these services, he was rewarded with the hand of the
+Conqueror’s daughter, and all that northern part of Yorkshire, now called
+Richmondshire, where he built, on the river Swale, the town and castle of
+Richmond.  The title passed through Alice, daughter of Constance of
+Brittany, to Pierre de Dreux, and descended through him to all the Dukes
+of his house, until John IV., having gone over to the King of France, was
+deprived of the earldom by Act of Parliament, in the reign of King Richard
+II.; but Henry IV. again conferred the title upon his stepson Arthur,
+afterwards the celebrated Constable and Duke of Brittany.
+
+We returned to breakfast at Sarzeau; then on to the Abbey of St. Gildas de
+Rhuys, founded on this inaccessible coast by St. Gildas, an English saint,
+the schoolfellow and friend of St. Samson of Dol and St. Pol de Léon, and
+which counted among its monks our Saxon St. Dunstan, who, carried by
+pirates from his native isle, settled on the desolate shores of Brittany,
+and became, under the name of St. Goustan, the patron of mariners.
+
+St. Gildas built his abbey on the edge of a high rocky promontory, the
+site of an ancient Roman encampment, called Grand Mont, facing the shore,
+where the sea has formed numerous caverns in its rocks. They are composed
+chiefly of quartz, and are covered to a great height with innumerable
+small mussels. The tide was too high to admit of our entering into any of
+the grottoes, but the piles of dark rocks beaten into every form by the
+violence of the waves, rising sometimes to the height of sixty feet, are
+very imposing. St. Gildas, in the twelfth century, had Abelard for
+superior, who, on his appointment, made over to Eloise the celebrated
+abbey he had founded at Nogent, near Troyes, which he called the Paraclete
+or Comforter, because he there found comfort and refreshment after his
+troubles, but his peace soon ended on his arrival in Brittany. His gentle
+nature was unable to contend against these coarse, ferocious, unruly,
+Breton monks. As he writes in his well-known letter to Eloise, setting
+forth his griefs:—
+
+  “J’habite un pays barbare, dont la langue m’est inconnue et en horreur:
+  je n’ai de commerce qu’avec des peuples féroces; mes promenades sont les
+  bords inaccessibles d’une mer agitée; mes moines n’ont d’autre règle que
+  n’en point avoir. Je voudrais que vous vissiez ma maison, vous ne la
+  prendriez jamais pour une abbaye: les portes ne sont ornées que de pieds
+  de biche, de loups et d’ours, de sangliers, des dépouilles hideuses des
+  hiboux. J’éprouve chaque jour de nouveaux périls; je crois à tout moment
+  voir sur ma tête un glaive suspendu.”
+
+But if Abelard hated the monks, they equally detested him, and one day
+tried to poison him, but he escaped through a gate in the garden wall,
+still pointed out, to the sea shore, where his friend and protector, the
+Count de Rhuys, awaited him in a boat.
+
+The abbey is now in the occupation of twelve sisters of the "Charité de
+St. Louis," who have a school for poor girls, and, in the summer, take in
+families to board who come here for the benefit of the bracing air of this
+fine wild coast. There is a kind of establishment for bathing in the
+little bay below the abbey. The board and lodging is moderate, three
+francs and a half a day, wine, tea, and sugar, not included. Boys are
+admitted up to thirteen, but the men are sent into the town.
+
+Part of the abbey church is Romanesque: a semi-circular choir, with three
+round chapels and the transepts. The nave and tower are of modern date.
+The pavement is covered with tumulary stones. Four children of Duke John
+III. le Roux are buried here, and one of Joan of Navarre and John IV. In
+the Treasury are several pieces of plate, among which is a Renaissance
+chalice, with six canopied statuettes of Apostles forming the knop; and a
+cross of the same period, a châsse of St. Gildas, his head and arm both
+encased in silver reliquaries.  His tomb is in the church.  Encrusted in
+the wall outside the church are the figures of two knights on horseback in
+mailed armour, conical Norman helmets, long pointed shields, and lances in
+the attitude of combat. The church and convent of St. Gildas belonged to
+the family of Bisson, whose self-devotion is commemorated by a statue at
+Lorient. He passed here many years of his early life, and wishing to
+preserve the buildings from ruin, gave them as a present to the parish.
+St. Gildas is called by the Bretons St. Feltas. There is a rude coloured
+print in the church relative to the legend of Comorre, or Comor, the
+Breton "Blue Beard," in which St. Gildas plays a conspicuous part. The
+story, as told by Emile Souvestre, is this:—Guerech, Count of Vannes, the
+country of white corn, had a daughter, Triphyna, whom he tenderly loved.
+One day, ambassadors arrived from Comorre, a Prince of Cornouaille, the
+country of the black corn, demanding her in marriage. Now this caused
+great distress, for Comorre was a giant, and one of the wickedest of men,
+held in awe by every one for his cruelty. As a boy, when he went out, his
+mother used to ring a bell to warn people of his approach. He shot a child
+in order to prove his gun; and, when unsuccessful in the chase, would set
+his dogs on the peasants to tear them in pieces. But most horrible of all,
+he had had four wives, who all died one after the other, under suspicion
+of having been killed by either the knife, fire, water, or poison. The
+Count of Vannes, therefore, dismissed the ambassadors, and advanced to
+meet Comorre, who was approaching with a powerful army; but St. Gildas
+went into her oratory, and begged Triphyna would save bloodshed, and
+consent to the marriage. He gave her a silver ring, which would warn her
+of any intended evil, by turning, at the approach of danger, as black as
+the crow’s wing. The marriage took place with great rejoicings. The first
+day six thousand guests were invited; on the next as many poor were fed,
+the bride and the bridegroom serving at table, a napkin under their arms.
+For some time, all went on well. Comorre’s nature seemed changed, his
+prisons were empty, his gibbets untenanted; but Triphyna felt no
+confidence, and every day went to pray at the tombs of his four wives. At
+this time there was an assembly at Rennes of the Breton Princes, which
+Comorre was obliged to attend. Before his departure, he gave Triphyna the
+keys, desiring her to amuse herself in his absence. After five months he
+unexpectedly returned, and found her occupied in trimming an infant’s cap
+with gold lace.  On seeing the cap, Comorre turned pale; and when Triphyna
+joyfully announced to him that in two months he would be a father, he drew
+back in a rage and rushed out of the apartment. Triphyna saw that her ring
+had turned black, which betokened danger, she knew not why. She descended
+into the chapel to pray; when she rose to depart it was midnight, and she
+saw the four tombs of Comorre’s wives open slowly, and they all issued
+forth in their winding-sheets. Half dead with fear, Triphyna tried to
+escape; but the spectres cried, "Take care, poor lost one! Comorre seeks
+to kill you." "I," says the Countess, "what evil have I done?"—"You have
+told him that you will soon become a mother; and, through the Spirit of
+Evil, he knows that his child will kill him, and that is why he has
+murdered us, when we told him what he has just learned from you." "What
+hope then of escape remains for me," cried Triphyna."—"Go back to your
+father," answered the phantoms. "But how escape when Comorre’s dog guards
+the court?"—"Give him this poison which killed me," said the first wife."
+"But how can I descend this high wall?"—"By means of this cord which
+strangled me," answered the second wife. "But who will guide me through
+the dark?"—"The fire which burnt me," replied the third wife. "And how can
+I make so long a journey?" returned Triphyna.—"Take this stick which broke
+my skull," rejoined the fourth spectre. Armed with these weapons, Triphyna
+sets out, silences the dog, scales the wall, sees her way through the
+darkness, and proceeds on her road to Vannes. On awakening next morning,
+Comorre finds his wife fled, and pursues her on horseback. The poor
+fugitive, seeing her ring turn black, turned off the road and hid herself
+till night in the cabin of a shepherd, where was only an old magpie in a
+cage at the door. Comorre, who had given up the pursuit, was returning
+home that road, when he heard the magpie trying to imitate her complaints,
+and calling out "Poor Triphyna!" he therefore knew his wife had passed
+that way, and set his dog on the track. Meanwhile, Triphyna felt she could
+proceed no further, and laid down on the ground, where she brought into
+the world a boy of marvellous beauty. As she clasped him to her arms, she
+saw over her head a falcon with a golden collar, which she recognised as
+her father’s. The bird came to her call, and giving it the warning ring of
+St. Gildas, she told it to fly with it to her father. The bird obeyed and
+flew with it like lightning to Vannes; but, almost at the same instant,
+Comorre arrived; having parted with her warning ring, Triphyna, who had no
+notice of his approach, had only time to conceal her babe in the cavity of
+a tree, when Comorre threw himself upon his unhappy wife, and with one
+blow severed her head from her body. When the falcon arrived at Vannes, he
+found the King at dinner with St. Gildas; he let the ring fall into the
+silver cup of his master, who recognising it, exclaimed, "My daughter is
+in danger; saddle the horses, and let St. Gildas accompany us." Following
+the falcon, they soon reached the spot where Triphyna lay dead. After they
+had all knelt in prayer, St. Gildas said to the corpse, "Arise, take thy
+head and thy child, and follow us." The dead body obeyed, the bewildered
+troop followed; but, gallop as fast as they could, the headless body was
+always in front, carrying the babe in her left hand, and her pale head in
+the right. In this manner, they reached the castle of Comorre. "Count,"
+says St. Gildas, "I bring back your wife such as your wickedness has made
+her, and thy child such as Heaven has given it thee. Wilt thou receive
+them under thy roof?" Comorre was silent. The Saint three times repeated
+the question, but no voice returned an answer. Then St. Gildas took the
+new-born infant from its mother, and placed it on the ground. The child
+marched alone to the edge of the moat, and picking up a handful of earth,
+and throwing it against the castle, exclaimed, "Let the Trinity execute
+judgment." At the same instant the towers shook and fell with a great
+crash; the walls yawned open and the castle sunk, burying Comorre and all
+his fellow partners in crime. St. Gildas then replaced Triphyna’s head
+upon her shoulders, laid his hands upon her, and restored her to life, to
+the great joy of her father.—Such is the history of Triphyna and Comorre.
+
+On our way back to Vannes we saw on our left the Butte de Tumiac, or Butte
+d’Arzon, the largest tumulus of the Morbihan. It was opened in 1853, and
+found to enclose a chamber full of pulverised bones and various curious
+objects. From Vannes we also visited the stately castle of Elven, about
+four miles from the station of that name; not built on a lofty site, for,
+in the fifteenth century, the barons had descended from their heights to
+places more convenient of access, and where water was more easily
+obtained. The Breton feudal lords of Rohan, Rieux, Clisson, and
+Penthièvre, no longer required fortified places as means of defence
+against the French and English, but, in consequence of their own internal
+divisions, to defend them in their wars with their duke or among
+themselves. The castle of Elven is situated in an insulated coppice wood,
+in the midst of the lande of Elven. It was the chief place of the lordship
+of l’Argoët (in Breton, "upon the wood"), and is also called the fortress
+of Largoët.
+
+[Illustration: 41. Castle of Elven.]
+
+The ruins, which occupy a large enclosure, consist chiefly of two towers;
+the principal one, 130 feet high, is octagonal; the other, which is not
+above 100 feet in height, is split from top to bottom. The battlemented
+walls are nearly 20 feet thick at the base. A wide deep moat surrounded
+the castle, and it was furnished with subterranean passages and everything
+requisite to make it a model of the military architecture of the fifteenth
+century. The donjon has two granite staircases; one leads to the top,
+whence may be seen Vannes and the Morbihan, with its islands. Here, in
+1793, the Royalists established signals. In the castle of Elven, Henry of
+Richmond, then only fifteen, with his uncle, Jasper Tudor, Earl of
+Pembroke, were detained by Duke Francis II. for fifteen years. Fugitives
+after Tewkesbury, they were thrown by a tempest upon the shores of
+Brittany. Henry was claimed both by King Edward IV. and Louis XI., and was
+kept by Duke Francis as a pledge of the good faith of Edward towards
+Brittany. Perhaps also Francis may have entertained some ill-feeling
+towards Henry from his bearing the title of Earl of Richmond, which had
+been held for more than three hundred years by the Dukes of Brittany.
+Francis revived the claim to the title which Henry VI. had conferred
+(1452) on Edward Tudor, father of Henry. Subsequently, on the assurance of
+the King of England that he only required the release of Henry to invest
+him with the Order of the Garter and to give him his daughter, the
+Princess Elizabeth, in marriage, Duke Francis made over the Prince to the
+English Ambassador, and he was about to embark at St. Malo for England,
+when the Duke’s Grand Treasurer (Landais) arrived, warned Henry of his
+danger, and helped him to take refuge in the sanctuary of the church,
+whence he afterwards withdrew him again to place him in honourable
+captivity for twelve more years, till King Edward’s death. A party being
+formed in England, aided by the Duchess of Brittany, Françoise de Foix,
+Henry attempted a descent; but the plan being discovered, after seeing the
+English coast, Henry was obliged to return to Brittany and his ships were
+scattered in a storm.  Again within his power, Landais listened to the
+offers of King Richard III., and agreed to give him up; but Henry,
+informed in time, left Vannes, threw himself into the forest, and escaped
+to France, where he obtained from the regent, Anne de Beaujeu, the
+assistance which enabled him to mount the English throne.
+
+The castle of Elven, with those of Rieux and Rochefort, belonged to the
+Maréchal de Rieux. Elven was rebuilt by him with the materials of the old;
+but they were all dismantled by the orders of the Duchess Anne in 1496, to
+punish her guardian for his revolt. Yet Rieux acted as he thought best for
+the welfare of his late master and his daughter, whose cause he defended
+against the interested views of the King of France. Rieux had that keen
+sense of honour which is one of the characteristics of the Breton
+gentleman. When he reproached Anne de Beaujeu, regent, to her brother
+Charles VIII., for having instigated the King to attack Nantes, contrary
+to his engagements, Anne replied, "He had no written promise." "Et quoi,
+Madame!" he indignantly exclaimed; "la parole d’un roy, ne vaut elle pas
+mille scellez?" Louis de Rieux, the last of the race, was shot on the
+Champs des Martyrs. True to the motto of his house, "A toute heure,
+Rieux," he showed himself ready "at any hour" to die for the altar and the
+throne.
+
+Elven is the scene of M. Octave Feuillet’s "Roman d’un jeune Homme
+pauvre;" and the keeper who shows the ruins points out the spot whence the
+"Hero of Romance" took the leap to prove his loyalty, and which gained him
+the hand of the lady.
+
+Next morning we started early by rail to Questembert, to meet the
+diligence for Ploërmel, twenty miles from this station, passing through
+Malestroit. We saw quantities of chestnuts on our road, and were told they
+were largely exported to England. They come principally from the
+neighbourhood of Redon and other places in the department of
+Ile-et-Vilaine, where they grow as abundantly as described by Madame de
+Sevigné, when writing from the Château des Roches, in the same department:
+"Pour nous, ce sont des châtaignes qui font notre ornement. J’en avois
+l’autre jour trois au quatre paniers autour de moi. J’en fis bouillir,
+j’en fis rôtir, j’en mis dans mes poches, on en sert dans les plats, on
+marche dessus, c’est la Bretagne dans son triomphe."
+
+Ploërmel derives its name (plo-ermel, land or territory of Armel) from an
+anchorite of the sixth century, who treated a dragon which ravaged the
+country in the time of King Childebert in the same manner as St. Pol de
+Léon disposed of the monster at Batz.
+
+The façade of the church of Saint Armel has a number of grotesque
+carvings—the sow playing the bagpipes, the cobbler sewing up the mouth of
+his wife, &c.; but it is principally remarkable for its eight painted
+windows of the sixteenth century, lately restored, and the monumental
+effigies of two Dukes of Brittany; the one, John II., who was killed at
+Lyons, where he went to settle some differences with his clergy, on the
+occasion of the coronation of Pope Clement V. A wall, loaded with
+spectators, fell, and the Duke was crushed in its ruins; the Pope escaped
+with being only thrown from his mule.
+
+The other effigy is that of Duke John III., or the Good, whose death was
+the signal for the War of Succession. He died at Caen. These tombs were
+formerly in the Carmelite convent founded by John II., who, on his return
+from the Holy Land, established the first Carmelite convent in Brittany,
+and brought monks from Mount Carmel to inhabit it.
+
+The tombs were destroyed in the Revolution, but the two statues were
+saved. They are of white marble, and are placed on a monumental slab, side
+by side, with this inscription: "De tous temps la fidélité Bretonne rendit
+hommage à ses souverains." Duke John II. is represented in a hauberk of
+mail, the hood turned back, with cotte d’armes, shield, and sword. Duke
+John III. has his head encircled by the ducal crown, his hair long, his
+genouillières, cuissarts, &c., of plate armour. His shield and cotte
+d’armes are semé of ermines, and by his side is the dagger of miséricorde,
+which served to kill the fallen enemy unless he cried for mercy. When
+James II. passed through Ploërmel after the Battle of the Boyne, a
+fugitive and a dethroned monarch, the Carmelite monks would not take him
+in; but he found in the little village of Penfra the hospitality they had
+refused him. Here is an establishment, directed by a brother of Lamennais,
+the celebrated author of ’Paroles d’un Croyant,’ where people of all
+nations—Indians, negroes from Senegambia, and others—are educated and
+taught trades of every kind, and sent back to their own countries.
+
+[Illustration: 42. Column of the Thirty.]
+
+The people about Ploërmel and Josselin speak French instead of Breton, the
+prevailing language of the Morbihan department. It is nearly seven miles
+between Ploërmel and Josselin. Equally distant from each, at Mi-voie, in
+the centre of a star formed by avenues of firs and cypresses, is an
+obelisk set up to commemorate the famous "Combat des Trente," which took
+place on this spot in 1351, and on which are inscribed the names of the
+thirty who fought on the French side. It was during that period of the War
+of Succession when hostilities were carried on by the two Jeannes, Marshal
+Beaumanoir, the Breton commander of the garrison of Josselin for Jeanne de
+Penthièvre, gave a challenge to Bembro’, as he is called, the English
+captain who held Ploërmel for Jeanne de Montfort and her infant son, in
+consequence of an alleged infraction by the latter of a truce, agreed upon
+between the Kings of France and England, in which it had been stipulated
+that the peasants and those not bearing arms should be unmolested. In
+spite of this compact, the English soldiers devastated the country and
+committed every kind of excess. Jean de Beaumanoir repaired to Ploërmel to
+remonstrate, and it was agreed to settle the dispute by a fight between
+thirty warriors from each camp. The prophecies of Merlin were consulted,
+and found to promise victory to the English. The appointed place of
+meeting was by a large oak, the "Chêne de Mi-Voie," on a lande or large
+plain, half way from each town. The battle began with great fury, at first
+to the disadvantage of the Bretons, when Bembro’ was killed, which threw
+dismay among the English; but a German, who succeeded in the command,
+rallied their courage, and the melée became thicker than ever. Beaumanoir
+was wounded, and his loss of blood and his long fast produced a burning
+thirst, and he asked for water. "Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, ta soif se
+passera," was the reply of Geoffroy du Bois; and Beaumanoir, forgetting
+his thirst and his wound, continued the fight. The English kept their
+ranks close, till Guillaume de Montauban broke them by a stratagem and
+threw them into confusion. He mounted his horse and pretended to fly, then
+suddenly turned upon the English with such force that he threw seven down
+and broke their ranks:—
+
+
+    “Grande fut la bataille et longuement dura:
+    Et le chapple (carnage) horrible est deçà et delà;
+    La chaleur fut moult grande, chacun si tressua (sua);
+    De sœur et de sang la terre rosoya (rougit).
+    A ce bon samedi Beaumanoir si jeuna;
+    Grand soif eut le baron, à boire demanda;
+    Messire Geoffrey du Bois tantôt répondu a:
+    ’Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, la soif te passera;
+    Ce jour aurons honneur, chacun si gagnera
+    Vaillante renommée, ja blâme ne sera.’—
+    Beaumanoir le vaillant adonc s’évertua,
+    Tel deuil eut et telle ire que la soif lui passa;
+    Et d’un côté et d’autre le chapple commença:
+    Morts furent ou blessés, guères n’en échappa.”—BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh Calverly Croquart, and others were made
+prisoners, and thus ended the Battle of the Thirty; gained, however, in a
+most disloyal manner, Montauban getting the aid of a horse, when all the
+other combatants fought on foot.
+
+The Breton knights returned to Josselin, their helmets decorated with
+branches of the broom—
+
+
+    “In every basnet a bright broom flower;”
+
+
+the place where the battle was fought running, according to the French
+poem,
+
+
+    “Le long d’une génetaie qui était verte et belle.”
+
+
+Josselin is celebrated for its château, where died, 1407, Olivier du
+Clisson, the contemporary and brother of arms of Du Guesclin, whom he
+succeeded in the dignity of Constable of France, which no one for some
+time would accept, not thinking themselves worthy of replacing him. Both
+differed widely in position and character. Du Guesclin, though of a noble
+family, had not the advantage of fortune like Clisson, who had immense
+wealth and landed possessions, which made him a kind of sovereign in the
+duchy. He willed away a million of money. Clisson was a statesman, Du
+Guesclin’s sole glory was in arms. Clisson was cruel, intriguing, and
+insatiable for riches; Du Guesclin was humane, loyal, and disinterested.
+Both were equal in bravery and physical force: the lance of Du Guesclin
+and the axe of Clisson(20) carried all before them. Clisson joined with Du
+Guesclin in freeing the country from the "Great Companies," and his most
+celebrated action was the defeat of the Flemings at Rosbecq. Few subjects
+have been so powerful, or have filled so important a part, as Olivier du
+Clisson. He was true to his sovereign after his reconciliation, and to his
+children after him. John IV. had scarce closed his eyes when the daughter
+of Clisson, wife of Jean de Penthièvre, came to her father and said, "It
+depends only on you that my husband receives the inheritance of Brittany."
+"How?" asked the Constable. "By your ridding yourself of the children of
+De Montfort." "Ah! cruel and perverse woman," exclaimed Clisson; "if you
+live long, you will destroy the honour and property of your children;" and
+he accompanied his words with such violent menaces, that, seized with
+affright, she fled from his presence, and falling down, broke her thigh.
+The prophecy of Clisson was fulfilled, as we shall later relate. The
+ancient château in which he died was destroyed by Henry IV.; the present
+building was raised by Alain IX., Vicomte de Rohan, through Alain VIII.,
+who married Beatrix, eldest daughter of the Constable, by which Josselin
+descended to the Rohans,(21) a house yielding to none in antiquity and
+illustration, being descended from the ancient sovereigns of Brittany, and
+allied with all the crowned heads of Europe,—"Princes of Bretagne" they
+were styled. But the Rohan family became unpopular in the duchy, when John
+II. attached himself to Louis XI. and France, for the bribe of 8000 livres
+to himself and 4000 to his wife.
+
+At the battle of St. Aubin du Cormier, which sealed the fate of Brittany,
+the Vicomte du Rohan betrayed his brother-in-law Duke Francis and the
+national cause, and fought on the side of France. He afterwards marched at
+the head of the French troops, and besieged Guingamp, where its brave
+defenders declared, "As long as there is a duchess in Brittany, we will
+not give up her towns." But they took Pontrieux and Concarneau, and in
+1491 the Vicomte du Rohan was appointed by Charles VIII.
+Lieutenant-General in Lower Brittany.  He was called by his countrymen the
+"Felon Prince;" and so detested was he and his race, that it passed into a
+proverb to say of a mean, treacherous, dishonest person, "Il mange à
+l’auge comme Rohan,"—"He eats at the manger (that is, the table of the
+King of France) like Rohan." "Un peu de jactance," therefore, justly
+observes Daru, in the proud motto of the Rohans:—(22)
+
+
+    “Roi ne puis,
+    Prince ne daigne,
+    Rohan je suis.”
+
+
+[Illustration: 43. Château of Josselin.]
+
+The château of Josselin stands by a river, on which side it presents piles
+of towers and fortifications covered with slate, a severe specimen of
+military architecture; while on the other side, the cour d’honneur, we see
+one of the handsomest châteaux of the Renaissance yet remaining in
+Brittany. This façade is richly ornamented with sculptures of varied and
+fanciful design.  Immense gurgoyles, in the form of serpents, stretching
+from the roof to the base, pierced balustrades or galleries of lace-like
+delicacy, in which are introduced, according to the fashion of the period,
+the initial letters of the Vicomte Alain, A and V interlaced. The old
+Rohan motto, "À plus," and the escutcheon of gules, nine mascles or
+lozenges, occur in every part of this gorgeous front, and also on the
+finely-carved chimneypiece of the reception room (salle d’honneur). The
+whole of the château is in course of restoration by the Prince de Léon.
+
+In the church of Josselin is the tomb of the Constable Clisson, with that
+of Marguerite de Rohan his wife; both statues were mutilated in the
+Revolution, but are now restored: they are of white marble on a black
+slab. Clisson is in armour, Marguerite has her hair plaited and confined
+in a network of pearls; she wears a long robe, with a surcoat above,
+furred with ermine. The motto, "Pour ce qu’il me plest (plait)," is in an
+oratory which belonged to Clisson, expressing his haughty and overbearing
+will. This same motto appears on his seal, affixed to a letter preserved
+in the archives of the empire, and he is recorded to have had it inscribed
+upon his Constable’s sword, which, like Du Guesclin, he always wore
+unsheathed, to show he was ready at all times to fight the enemies of the
+crown.
+
+There hangs in the church a picture of the finding of the image Notre
+Dame-du-Roncier, of which we relate the legend:—
+
+Long before Josselin was a town, a poor labourer had remarked, on the spot
+where now stands the church of Notre Dame, a bramble bush, which the frost
+and snow of the roughest winters never deprived of its leaves, but it
+always remained fresh and green. Surprised at this strange phenomenon, he
+dug the soil under the bramble, and discovered a wooden statue of the
+Virgin. A marvellous light played round the head of the image. The man
+carried it home; but next morning, to his surprise, he found the statue
+under the same bush whence he had taken it. The miracle was repeated
+several times, and soon attracted crowds of devotees. A chapel was built
+to deposit the sacred image, houses followed next, and a little town
+gradually formed, which the Comte de Porhoët surrounded with walls, and
+Josselin, his son, endowed with his name, 1030. Such was the rise of
+Josselin. A celebrated pilgrimage still exists to Josselin on Whit
+Tuesday, resorted to by crowds of "aboyeuses" or barkers, people possessed
+with this kind of epilepsy, said to be hereditary in several families, and
+which is accounted for from the circumstance of a party of washerwomen
+having refused a glass of water to the Vierge du Ronçier, who went to them
+disguised in the garb of a beggar. The merciless creatures set their dogs
+upon the pretended mendicant, and thus brought down upon themselves and
+their posterity this fearful malediction. The disease is supposed to
+return periodically about Whitsuntide, and only to leave the afflicted
+when they are carried forcibly to the sanctuary of Notre Dame to press
+with their foaming lips the fragments still remaining of the ancient
+miraculous statue which was burnt upon the public Place in the time of the
+French Revolution.
+
+We left Ploërmel at four o’clock in the morning for Montfort-sur-Mer,
+passing through Plélan; while the horses baited at a little auberge we got
+some hot coffee, and found a good fire in the kitchen. The landlady, shut
+in her "lit clos," did not disturb herself, but occasionally put out her
+head to give directions for our breakfast. On the left of the road is the
+forest of Paimpont, which formerly extended from Montfort to Rostrenan, a
+kind of neutral desert land, called Brocéliande, and famous, under that
+name, in the history of King Arthur. It was the theatre of the fairies’
+most wondrous enchantments. Here was the fountain of Youth and also that
+of Barenton, where they came every day to draw water in an emerald basin.
+Here, too, the enchanted Merlin has lain sleeping for centuries,
+enthralled by his pupil the fairy Viviana, who has cast a spell upon her
+master she knows not how to break.
+
+Montfort, where we joined the railway, is celebrated for the legend of the
+duck and its ducklings, and was the residence of the De Montfort family
+until Guy Comte de Laval and Sire de Montfort married Françoise de Dinan,
+widow of the unfortunate Gilles de Bretagne, when the Montforts left their
+paternal demesne for the châteaux of Laval, Vitré, and Châteaubriant.
+
+The railway took us to Rennes, an uninteresting modern French town, the
+old town was burnt down in 1720, and straight streets have risen up, with
+no traces of its having been once the ancient capital of Brittany. Indeed,
+so French is it altogether, that the saying runs—"Bon Breton de Vannes,
+bon Français de Rennes." It was here that Constance, heiress of the duchy,
+held her court, with Geoffrey Plantagenet, who, with their unfortunate son
+Arthur, were the only Plantagenets, dukes of Brittany. On the murder of
+Arthur, his sister Alice carried the ducal crown to her husband, Pierre de
+Dreux (called Mauclerc, from his animosity to the clergy), and from them
+descended the dukes of Brittany down to Queen Anne, whose double marriage
+conveyed the duchy to France and the Valois.
+
+When Henry IV. made his solemn entry into Rennes, the Governor presented
+him with the three silver-gilt keys of the city, of rich workmanship; upon
+which the King observed, "Elles étaient belles, mais qu’il aimait mieux
+les clefs des cœurs des habitants."
+
+The following year we made a tour along the banks of the Loire, and at
+Angers embarked on board the steamer for Nantes. The scenery down the
+Loire is rich, and the hills covered with vineyards, islands planted with
+willows, and sunny villages, or occasionally a gloomy fortress comes to
+view. Ingrandes is the frontier town, half in Anjou and half in Brittany,
+between the modern departments of Loire Inférieure and Maine-et-Loire.
+Lower down is St. Florent (Maine-et-Loire), with its recollections of the
+wonderful passage of the Loire by the Vendean army, so graphically related
+by Madame de la Rochejacquelin, and near the island of Meilleraie, where
+their brave General Bonchamps expired, after the fatal engagement of
+Chollet; his last act being the saving the lives of four thousand
+prisoners shut up in the church, and about to be executed by the
+exasperated Vendeans. "Grâce aux prisonniers" were his dying words.
+Opposite St. Florent is Varades, where the Vendeans landed after crossing
+the Loire. Only a feeble post opposed them. Had the republicans lost less
+time, and sent a force after their victory at Chollet, much calamity would
+have been spared to Brittany, and the Royalists themselves would have been
+saved the terrible defeats of Le Mans and Savenay.
+
+Passing Ancenis, which rises in an amphitheatre on the vine-clothed hills,
+and, with its suspension-bridge, is one of the most picturesque points in
+the river, we reached Oudon, with its tall octagonal tower; on the left,
+in the department of Maine-et-Loire, nearly opposite, stands the ruined
+castle of Champtoceaux, where Duke John V. was kept a prisoner by the
+implacable enemies of his house, the Penthièvre family.
+
+Marguerite de Clisson, widow of Jean de Bretagne, Comte de Penthièvre,
+lived in retirement in her stately fortress of Champtoceaux, with her
+three sons, Oliver, Count of Blois, and his brothers. Marguerite inherited
+the pride, hatred, and cruelty, of her father, without his chivalrous
+loyalty and magnanimity. The kingdom was filled with troubles, and she
+thought it a favourable moment for reviving the pretensions of her family.
+John V. held his court at Nantes. She sent Oliver there to assure the Duke
+that his mother and brother were ready to do him homage; and he swore, on
+his own part, "de le servir envers et contre tous ceux qui peuvent vivre
+et mourir." John, delighted, made the young man share his bed, and treated
+him with the greatest distinction. Oliver expressed his regret that the
+age and infirmities of his mother prevented her going to court, and
+timidly insinuated the honour she would feel at a visit from the Duke. The
+Duke consented, and, sending off his plate to Champtoceaux, started with
+his brother-in-law, Count Oliver, and his attendants. Having passed the
+little river which separates Anjou from Brittany, they saw a man throwing
+the planks of the bridge into the water, and thus preventing the Duke’s
+suite from following. At the same time, Charles de Penthièvre, Margaret’s
+second son, issued suddenly from a wood with an escort of lances and
+surrounded the Duke. There was no kind of indignity they did not make him
+suffer. He was tied upon his horse like a criminal, and conducted first to
+Clisson, Oliver leading him with a halter round his neck. The Penthièvres,
+who would not let the place be guessed where they held their captive,
+conducted him at night, sometimes on foot, from fortress to fortress, from
+dungeon to dungeon; at the same time circulating the report that they had
+drowned him in the Loire. As a last insult, they took him to Champtoceaux,
+where Marguerite visited him in prison to exult over his misfortunes.
+Meantime the Breton barons, indignant at the treason of which their
+Sovereign was the victim, raised an army for his deliverance, and civil
+war broke out with redoubled fury. His heroic wife, Jeanne de France,
+showed an untiring energy to save him. Undaunted by the threats of the
+Penthièvres,—who sent word to her, if she did not desist from hostilities
+they would cut her husband in pieces, nor by the messages from the Duke
+himself assuring her that her zeal would cost him his life,—she induced
+her brother, the Dauphin, to order the Penthièvres not to attempt the life
+of their prisoner; she besieged, one after the other, all their castles,
+and at last compelled Marguerite to capitulate to save her own life.
+Finding herself and family in a perilous position, Marguerite agreed that
+the Duke should be released (he was at Clisson), and that she and her sons
+should retire where they wished, on their promise to appear at the summons
+of the Breton nobles. Immediately on his liberation, Duke John ordered the
+destruction of Champtoceaux. A parliament assembled at Vannes in 1424,
+condemned Marguerite and her sons to capital punishment, and declared all
+the Penthièvre possessions to be forfeited to the State. But the culprits
+had all escaped the kingdom, except the youngest son, William, a child
+only ten years of age, who had been given as a hostage for the appearance
+of his mother and brothers, and was condemned to languish for twenty-seven
+years in prison, where he lost his eyesight—a victim to crimes in which he
+had not been an accomplice. John had made a vow, during his detention, to
+give, if he regained his liberty, to the church of Notre Dame at Nantes,
+his weight in gold; and most conscientiously did he perform his promise,
+for we read, "He placed himself in his war armour in the balance, and
+caused the opposite scale to be filled with gold till it had attained the
+weight of the first; that is to say, three hundred and eighty marks, seven
+ounces"—which sum was delivered over to the church. Vows of this nature
+are not unfrequently recorded. When Don Carlos, the ill-fated son of
+Philip II., lay ill, he vowed to give to the Virgin, on his recovery, four
+times his weight in gold plate, and seven times his weight in silver. The
+vow was fulfilled; but the Prince was placed in the scale in a damask robe
+and fur coat, and weighed only seventy-six pounds—so much was he reduced
+by his long illness.
+
+Nantes is a cheerful, busy, handsome city, but wanting in the picturesque
+characteristics of the towns of Lower Brittany. Quimper, Vannes, Rennes,
+and Nantes, have all been successively capitals of the duchy, but Nantes
+was the usual residence of its dukes.
+
+The cathedral contains its principal artistic monument, the tomb of Duke
+Francis II. and his second wife, Marguerite de Foix, called "sein de lys,"
+from the beauty of her complexion. It was erected by their daughter, the
+Queen-Duchess Anne, and was executed by Michel Colomb, a sculptor of St.
+Pol de Léon, originally a herd-boy. This monument, considered a
+masterpiece of the Renaissance, is not copied from any Italian original,
+but is entirely the offspring of the artist’s own fancy. There is much
+simplicity in its design and execution. The tomb, about five feet high, is
+of white marble, diapered with ermine and the letter F. On a black slab
+repose the effigies of the Duke and Duchess, and at their feet are lying a
+lion and a greyhound, holding their several escutcheons. Four large
+allegorical figures are at each angle of the tomb, representing the
+cardinal virtues. Justice carries the book of the laws, and the sword by
+which she makes them respected. This figure is said to be the portrait of
+the Duchess Anne. Temperance, in a monastic dress, is characterised by a
+bit and a lantern. Prudence, double faced, holds a mirror and a compass,
+and has a serpent at her feet. This figure is in the costume of a peasant
+girl of St. Pol; the second face, that of an old man, is also in the dress
+of Lower Brittany. Strength or Fortitude, handsome, resolute, and calm,
+strangles a dragon with his grasp.
+
+Upon the principal sides of the tomb are the twelve Apostles, and below,
+in niches, sixteen mourners (pleureuses) in monastic habits, the faces and
+hands white, the rest of the body black. The beautiful attitude of these
+figures is much admired. Some are kneeling, others are seated—all in the
+attitude and expression of prayer. This monument was originally in the
+church of the Carmelites, whence it was transferred to the cathedral.
+
+Besides the remains of Duke Francis and his two wives, it formerly
+contained the heart of his daughter, the Queen-Duchess Anne, enshrined in
+a golden case in the form of a heart, surmounted by a crown, and
+surrounded by a cordelière; but the tomb was rifled during the Reign of
+Terror. It now holds the remains of the Constable Duke Arthur III.
+
+Duke John IV. also died at Nantes, after his long eventful reign, having
+acquired a military glory which earned him the name of Conqueror, and
+equalled that of Du Guesclin and Clisson. Twice he lost and twice he
+regained his crown. He alienated Du Guesclin and his faithful subjects by
+his partiality to England. The Bretons rose, and he fled to Edward III.;
+but when Charles V. entered the duchy, with the intention of confiscating
+it to the crown of France, the Bretons all united to defend their
+nationality against the ambition of the French King, and recalled their
+Sovereign. So great was the enthusiasm on his arrival at St. Malo, that
+the nobles plunged into the water to approach his ship; and even the widow
+of his rival, Charles of Blois, went to welcome him. His cowardly attempt
+against the Constable Clisson again compromised his reputation, and was
+disgracefully avenged upon his son by the implacable daughter of Clisson.
+
+The old ducal castle still rises on the left bank of the river. It was
+here Anne of Brittany was born, and here she married, 1499, her old
+admirer, the chivalrous Duke of Orleans, then King Louis XII., according
+to her stipulation, that the King, "viendra l’espouser en sa maison de
+Nantes." Left at the age of eleven, by the death of her father, a prey to
+claimants to her hand, which carried with it the powerful duchy of
+Brittany, Anne was a prize worth a king’s seeking, even at a time when
+there were so many other rich heiresses undisposed of—Mary of Burgundy,
+Elizabeth of York, Isabella of Castille, and Catherine de Foix. Anne is
+described as handsome, but slightly lame, generous, and gentle, but grave
+and proud in her demeanour. Louis XII. called her his "fière Bretonne,"
+and allowed her the uncontrolled government of Brittany, "tout ainsi que
+si elle n’estoit point sa femme."
+
+Though the wife of two Kings of France, Anne never forgot the interests of
+her duchy, whose nationality she always strove to maintain with the
+pertinacity of a true Breton, and showed herself, by her spirit and
+independence, to be the most worthy of all her race to wear the ducal
+crown. Jean Marot addresses her as "Royne incomparable, deux fois
+devinement sacrée, Anne Duchesse de Bretagne."
+
+Like most of the ladies of her age, Anne was an accomplished linguist. She
+understood Latin and Greek, and most of the European languages. She
+corresponded with her husband in Latin verse. Her letters, still extant,
+breathe the most tender affection. One, written to him (1499) during the
+Italian wars, begins, "Une épouse tendre et chérie écrit à son époux
+encore plus chéri, l’objet à la fois de ses regrets et de son estime,
+conduit par la gloire loin de sa patrie. Amante infortunée, il n’est pour
+elle aucun instant sans alarmes. Quel malheur affreux que celui d’être
+privé d’un Prince que l’on aime, d’un Prince plus amant qu’époux."
+
+It was in this castle that Henry IV. signed his celebrated Edict of
+Nantes, so fatally revoked by Louis XIV.
+
+The Duc de Mercœur, when governor of Brittany, made Nantes a regular
+fortified town. Having married Marie de Luxembourg, heiress of the house
+of Penthièvre, he sought to secure to himself the duchy of Brittany, while
+his brother, the Duke de Guise, aimed at the crown of France. Head of the
+League in that province, he looked upon it as a means of attaining his
+end: his wife joined him in his plans of ambition, and they by turns
+tyrannized and caressed the Nantais, amusing them with fêtes, in which the
+Duchess condescended to dance with the townsfolk. For twenty years Mercœur
+held the province; but a peace was eventually signed between him and Henry
+IV., through the mediation of Gabrielle d’Estrées, whose son César de
+Vendôme, then four years of age, was affianced to the Duke de Mercœur’s
+daughter, then only six.  When Henry IV. made his entry into Nantes after
+the pacification, he observed, on surveying the fortifications, "Ventre
+Saint Gris, les Ducs de Bretagne n’étaient pas de petits compagnons."
+
+Nantes has been the scene of many an act of vengeance on the part of the
+Kings of France.
+
+The Place du Bouffay, the place of execution, was the scene of the tragic
+death of the young Henri de Talleyrand, Comte de Chalais, executed by
+Louis XIII. for his part in the conspiracy which bears his name. Its
+object was the death of the Cardinal, and to place the crown on the head
+of the feeble Gaston, who was celebrating his marriage at Nantes at the
+time that his victim Chalais was paying the penalty of his crime.
+
+The restless, intriguing Cardinal de Retz was imprisoned in Nantes Castle
+during the minority of Louis XIV., and made a wonderful escape by letting
+himself down from the walls to the river, where a boat awaited him. It was
+also at Nantes that the same monarch caused Fouquet to be arrested, not,
+as alleged, for his malpractices in office, but because his ambition and
+pomp offended the pride of his royal master.
+
+For their part in the conspiracy of Cellamare, the Marquis de Poncallec
+and three other Breton gentlemen suffered on the Place du Bouffay, and the
+Vendean chief, La Charette, was also there shot in 1795.
+
+Not far from the castle is the Rue Haute du Château. At the Maison Juigny,
+in this street, the Duchesse de Berri was arrested, after having remained
+sixteen hours concealed in an aperture behind a chimney on the third
+floor, scarcely a foot and a half high and four feet long. The police,
+having information of her being in the house, through the treachery of a
+Jew, had made a fruitless search, but had left a watch behind. The
+soldiers lighted a fire in the chimney, and the Duchess, with her three
+attendants, sallied out, her dress completely scorched. They had endured
+the heat, but were unable to bear the suffocation.
+
+Nantes has some fine promenades and boulevards, planted with trees. In the
+Cours Saint Pierre and St. André are statues of the Duchess Anne and of
+the three Breton constables, Du Guesclin, Clisson, and Richmont.
+
+One of the leading characteristics of Nantes is its numerous bridges: a
+regular chain of them form a continuous line across the river and canals,
+and others unite the islands which form the suburbs to the town itself.
+
+The Museum contains a large collection of pictures, which the bequest of
+the Duke de Feltre (Maréchal Clarke) has increased considerably. These
+consist mostly of sketches by Paul Delaroche, and the charming Italian
+subjects of Léopold Robert.
+
+"L’enfant charitable"—a nun on her deathbed embracing a child who is
+standing by her side, an angel behind—is a touching composition of Ary
+Schäeffer. Another, by Paul Baudry, represents the death of Marat:
+Charlotte Corday’s open, handsome face, looks incapable of the crime she
+has just perpetrated. There is one by Ziegler—Daniel in the lion’s den—an
+angel staying the lions from molesting him. The atmosphere of light
+surrounding the angel is wonderful and unearthly. These two are in the
+general collection, together with numerous examples of the old masters.
+
+Near our hotel is one of the curiosities of Nantes, the Passage de la
+Pommeraye, consisting of three stories of iron galleries or arcades,
+uniting the Rue de Crébillon with the Rue de la Fosse. The second arcade
+communicates by a flight of stairs with the third, called the Galerie de
+la Fosse, opening upon the street of that name.
+
+The Garden of Plants is beautifully laid out; groves and avenues of
+magnolias in full flower, with rocks, waterfalls, rustic bridges, all most
+picturesquely disposed, making it one of the prettiest gardens and public
+promenades in France.
+
+We descended the Loire by steamer, passing by vast granite buildings,
+built as magazines for colonial imports, called Les Salorges, in front of
+which the horrible noyades of Carrier took place, and these warehouses
+served as a temporary place of confinement for the victims. We next
+steamed past the island of Indret, the great manufacture of steam-engines
+for the State. Here we landed some market women, in caps of the same form,
+with high combs, as those of clear muslin worn by the Nantaises, only of a
+coarse material, and edged with black. On the right was Couëron, where
+Duke Francis II. died in consequence of a fall from his horse. The battle
+of St. Aubin-du-Cormier had decided his fate and that of his daughters,—a
+humiliation from which he never recovered. His faithful friend Rieux, who
+commanded his army, defeated by the youthful Louis de la Trémouille; the
+chivalrous Louis of Orleans, a prisoner in an iron cage in the "Grosse
+Tour" at Bourges; and the safety of his daughters at the mercy of King
+Charles VIII., or worse, of his imperious sister, the Regent Anne de
+Beaujeu, who would have committed some act of spoliation, had not the
+Chancellor Rochefort saved the duchy by his integrity, declaring to Anne
+that "a conqueror without right is but an illustrious robber."
+
+At Les Pellerins, barges were loading with hay, and heaps of it standing
+on the river’s edge ready for embarkation. On the left bank is Paimbœuf,
+where diligences run to Pornic, a favourite little watering-place south of
+the Loire.
+
+St. Nazaire is a bustling seaport town, now the point of departure of the
+transatlantic steamers for the West Indies and Mexico. A Mexican, in his
+picturesque costume, all the seams of his dress fringed with hanging
+silver buttons, was living in the same hotel with ourselves. St. Nazaire
+has now a large floating basin, opened in 1858, capable of holding 200
+ships of large size, and another is in course of construction.
+
+It was from St. Nazaire that Prince Charles, the young Pretender, sailed
+on the adventurous expedition of ’45, furnished with a frigate and a ship
+of the line by Mr. Walsh, of Nantes. Among the noble cavaliers who had
+sacrificed everything to follow the Stuarts into exile was the Walsh
+family, originally from Ireland. They had shared the wandering fortunes of
+Charles II., returned with him at the Restoration to find the greater part
+of their property confiscated; but they did not hesitate to sacrifice the
+rest when James II. abdicated the throne, and a Walsh commanded the ship
+which carried the King to France. Sent on a secret mission to England, he
+was recognized, denounced, and arrested. James II. created him an Earl at
+St. Germain. Two of his sons had retired to St. Malo and Nantes, and
+engaged in commercial speculations, endeavouring thereby to restore the
+fortunes of their house. Commerce was strictly forbidden to the Breton
+nobles; but, when war or misfortune had reduced their fortunes, they were
+allowed to enter into commerce, or any other profession, without
+derogating from their rank, provided they first deposited their swords
+with the Parliament, to be again claimed when their circumstances were
+improved. All will remember the anecdote in the ’Sentimental Journey.’ As
+a book, called ’The State of Nobility in Brittany,’ published in 1681,
+sets forth: "When nobles are engaged in commerce, their noble blood
+sleeps; but when the derogatory works are over, it revives. It is never
+lost but in death." But to return to the Walsh family. One of the brothers
+had embarked the remains of his little fortune in the business of
+"armateur"—a kind of shipowner, or one who fits out and charters ships,
+and sometimes commands them himself—the profession of Jean Bart and Duguay
+Trouin.(23) It was to this Anthony Walsh, and a banker of Dunkirk, that
+Prince Charles addressed himself to fit out an old worm-eaten seventy-gun
+man-of-war, the ’Elizabeth,’ they had just obtained from Government for
+his expedition. True to the hereditary loyalty of his family, Mr. Walsh
+not only devoted all he possessed to the armament of the frigate, but also
+fitted out a brig, called the ’Doutelle’—both intended as privateers to
+cruise against the English—and took the command of her himself. On the
+28th June, 1745, furnished with about 4000l. of money, Charles Edward
+embarked on the Loire, in a fisherman’s boat, to join the ’Doutelle’ at
+St. Nazaire, and the ’Elizabeth’ at Belle-Isle. He passed for a young
+Irish priest, and wore the habit of a student of the Scots’ College at
+Paris. The ships encountered an English man-of-war, the ’Lion.’ At the
+sound of the first shot, the Prince rushed on deck and asked for a sword.
+Mr. Walsh, by virtue of his authority as captain, took him by the arm and
+said to him sternly, "M. Abbé, your place is not here; go below with the
+passengers." The Prince obeyed, night separated the combatants, and on the
+18th of July he was safely landed in Scotland. On Michaelmas Day, the
+following year, the disasters of Culloden again threw him an exile on the
+shores of Brittany.
+
+From St. Nazaire we took a carriage for Guérande, to visit that remarkable
+district called the Canton de Croisic, and consisting chiefly of that
+place and the Bourg de Batz. We first came to Escoublac, a corruption of
+Episcopi lacus, deriving its name from a lake belonging to the bishop of
+the diocese.
+
+The old town has been entirely buried by the moving sands which have blown
+over it, and, in 1779, its inhabitants transferred their houses to the
+present site. Hills of sand surround it in every direction.
+
+Here we left the high road, and turned off to the left to Poulignan, a
+little white bay, as its name implies; a charming retreat, with beautiful
+white sands and picturesque rocks. This is a favourite watering-place with
+the Nantais. Its whole population appeared to be in the water. A row of
+small wooden châlets are built along the shore for the bathers, no
+machines are used.
+
+From Escoublac begins the large extent of salt-pans in which consist the
+riches of this country. They reach to Batz and Le Croisic, the peninsula
+which forms this district having formerly been an island which gradually
+has been transformed into a marsh.
+
+[Illustration: 44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.]
+
+These salt-pans, cut out into small squares, have the appearance of one
+great chess-board, interspersed with occasional hamlets and woods. The
+working of them employs the whole population of the district.
+
+They consist of large basins, dug at different depths, into which the
+water of the sea is introduced, and are divided into squares called
+"œillets." The salt-water is turned upon the marsh by canals styled
+"étiers," edged with narrow paths or roads called "bossis," elevated, some
+of them, three or four feet above the marsh; on these the newly collected
+salt is generally laid. The water passes by a subterranean conduit, the
+"coëf," into the "vasière," where the first evaporation takes place; and
+then successively into the "cobiers," "fares," and "adernemètres," until
+it flows finally into the "œillets," where the salt is definitively
+formed. Each "œillet" is about 20 feet by 30.  The heat of the sun and the
+wind effect the evaporation, which the paludier assists by stirring the
+water from time to time. The salt which forms on the surface resembles a
+kind of white cream, and exhales an agreeable perfume resembling violets.
+This is the finest salt; that which falls to the bottom of the salt-pan is
+of a greyish cast. The salt when formed is then scraped off, drained, and
+the women collect it and stack it on the "bossis" into conical heaps,
+which they cover with a coating of clay, to render them impervious to
+weather. In the salting season, the salt marshes with their innumerable
+hillocks of white salt have the appearance of a vast tent-covered camp.
+Each "œillet" produces about 150 lbs. of salt. The same salt-pans are
+worked from century to century by the same "paludiers" or their
+descendants. The proprietors may change, but the workmen remain,
+considering the salt-pans their prescriptive inheritance. For payment,
+they receive one-fourth of the salt. The dress of the paludier is a
+smock-frock of irreproachable whiteness, with pockets, white shoes,
+gaiters, and linen breeches, an enormous black flap hat turned up on the
+side in a point or horn. The young man wears the point over the ear, the
+married turns it behind, and the widower in front. We reached the Bourg de
+Batz in time for vespers, and had an opportunity of seeing the people in
+their Sunday dress. The men wear three or four cloth waistcoats, all of
+different lengths, so as to let the various colours, red, white, and blue,
+with which they are bound, appear one above the other in tiers, a muslin
+turnover collar, full plaited breeches of fine cloth tied at the knee by
+garters of floating ribbon, white woollen stockings with worked clocks and
+light yellow shoes, their flap hats ornamented with a roll of chenille of
+varied colours. The headdress of the women is singular and most intricate.
+The hair, in two rolls, twisted round with white tape, forms a kind of
+coronet across their heads; over this, a piece of net is drawn tight,
+forming a sort of cap, describing a peak behind, and crossing in front
+like a handkerchief.
+
+[Illustration: 45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.]
+
+The dress consists of several petticoats of cloth plaited, red body,
+turned-up sleeves, and large coloured bibs or plastrons which they call
+"pièces," of the same stuff as their dresses. The girls’ aprons are plain,
+without pockets, but the women’s are of coloured silk, some of a rich
+brocade. A shawl with fringed border completes the costume. Some of the
+women had their heads and shoulders wrapped up in a triangular, black,
+shaggy sheepskin mantle; these were widows.
+
+At the inn where we alighted, they keep the splendid costumes worn by the
+people at weddings and other great occasions; and, by paying them for
+their trouble, they will put them on for inspection. The bride’s costumes
+are of great magnificence; they array themselves in three different
+dresses on their wedding-day. First, a gown of white velvet, with apron of
+moire antique; secondly, one of violet velvet; and the third equally
+costly. Embroidered sleeves, the "pièce" of cloth of gold, the petticoats
+looped up with a wide sash, embroidered in gold, and gold clocks to the
+stockings.
+
+[Illustration: 46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.]
+
+We were shown a state bed, or "lit de mariage," a tall four-post, painted
+red, with green reps tester and curtains, embroidered with yellow
+chenille. The great sign of wealth is to have the bedding reach to the top
+of the bedstead.  To effect this, the base is formed of bundles of
+vine-stalks, over which is spread the straw, and when this scaffolding has
+been raised some feet, a paillasse is placed over it, then the
+feather-bed, so that it literally requires a ladder to ascend to the top
+of this mountain of bedding, and then it is difficult to crawl into it.
+There were a bolster and two pillows covered with velvet, which, with the
+sheets, were all trimmed with a kind of lace or cutwork.
+
+The houses are solidly built of granite, and slated; the windows large.
+The furniture is good, generally comprising a well-waxed carved oak
+armoire, upon which are arranged earthenware plates of various colours.
+
+The paludiers of Batz preserve their original type distinct from the
+peasants of the environs; and form, like the Jews, a separate people,
+intermarrying among themselves, retaining their own peculiar manners and
+customs. They are supposed to descend from a Saxon colony. The paludier is
+tall in stature; their women remarkable for their fair complexions, which
+contrast strongly with their sunburnt neighbours. They are loyal and
+devout, true to their word, courageous and enduring; though the paludier
+is miserably poor, from the oppressiveness of the salt-tax, he never
+complains. Begging is unknown. Their food consists of rye bread, porridge
+of black corn, potatoes, and shellfish. They are sober, and drink wine in
+small quantities.
+
+Formerly the salt was distributed over the adjacent provinces by means of
+"saulniers," the journeymen labourers of the paludiers. Dressed in their
+picturesque costume, with a train of mules, whose tinkling bells announced
+their arrival, the saulnier was welcomed in every village where he sold
+his salt or exchanged it for other merchandize. "Le sucre des pauvres," as
+salt has been aptly called, was severely taxed under the old régime;
+distributions of the "sel royale" were yearly made by the Government among
+the gentry of the provinces, but the poor, who had no such privileges,
+severely felt the oppression, and smuggling was consequently extensively
+carried on, and the "faux saulnier," with his double bag across his
+shoulders, secretly sold salt upon which the gabelle had not been paid.
+With a faux saulnier originated the great peasant rising in Brittany, the
+Chouan war; a war to which Napoleon said, "All preceding wars have been
+but games." Jean, father of the four brothers Cottereau, was a maker of
+wooden shoes, and lived in a forest near Laval (Maine). From his solitary
+life he had acquired such sombre, wild, melancholy habits, that people
+gave him the name of Chouan, Maine patois for Chat-huant, and his family
+received the sobriquet long before the insurrection of 1792. Jean
+Cottereau was the most celebrated faux saulnier of Maine; he had
+accidentally killed a revenue officer in one of his encounters, and his
+heroic mother made a journey to Versailles, barefooted, "sur le cuir de
+ses pieds," to obtain his pardon. Jean’s master and patron was
+guillotined, his two sisters shared the same fate, and one of his brothers
+died of his wounds, and his body was disinterred by the Revolutionists.
+These personal wrongs, the treatment of the King, the interdiction of the
+Catholic religion, its processions, its bells, the persecution of its
+ministers, all goaded the Breton peasantry to revolt; and Jean was the
+first to fire a gun against a Republican at the cry of "Vive le Roi." The
+rising began with a few peasants, armed with a gun or a stick, dressed in
+short breeches open at the knee, with leather gaiters, and coloured
+garters; their long hair streaming over the shoulders, their heads covered
+with a wide-brimmed hat, or brown or red cap, sabots tipped with iron,
+and, in cold weather, a loose coat of goatskin. The Chouans assembled in
+small bands and attacked the Republicans at night in ambuscade, and when
+they had killed a few "Bleus" disappeared among the corn-fields or the
+furze-bushes. Simple peasants, they fought against the Republicans in
+defence of the altar and the throne. Their "commandements" ran thus:—
+
+
+    “Ton Dieu, ton Roy, tu serviras
+    Jusqu’à la mort fidèlement.
+    Docile à tes chefs tu seras,
+    Afin de vaincre surement.
+    Sobre et discret te montreras,
+    Buvant peu, parlant rarement;
+    De ton chef jamais n’agiras
+    Attendant le commandement;
+    Violemment rien ne prendras,
+    Mais en payant exactement.
+    Age et sexe respecteras,
+    Etant soldat et non brigand.
+    Les comités corrigeras,
+    Et les mouchards chrétiennement;
+    Né Breton, tu n’oublieras,
+    Afin d’agir loyalement.
+    Dans le succès clement seras;
+    Dans le malheur, ferme et constant.
+    Chaque jour ton Dieu tu prieras;
+    Que peux tu sans son bras puissant?”
+
+
+Such were the first Chouans: they had no organisation until they followed
+Larochejaquelin and the Vendean army to Granville, and accompanied them in
+their retreat; when their numbers were materially increased and their
+character completely changed by the deserters and brigands, who joined and
+eventually succeeded the peasantry.
+
+The church of Batz is of cut stone. It has a square tower, surmounted by a
+cupola steeple, which with that of Le Croisic serves as a landmark to
+vessels having to steer between the two dangerous rocks Le Four, in front
+of Le Croisic, and Les Blanches, situated near the mouth of the Loire.
+
+The choir is inclined, like that of St. Pol and others in Brittany. On one
+of the bosses in the interior is a grotesque carving of a man torn to
+pieces by the seven capital sins. On others are the Santa Veronica, the
+Good Shepherd, Ste. Barbara, &c. Near the church are the pretty ruins of
+the chapel of Notre Dame-du-Mûrier.
+
+We drove on to Le Croisic, in Breton, "Little Cross;" so called from the
+small chapel of the Crucifix, built to commemorate the baptism by St.
+Felix, Bishop of Nantes, in the sixth century, of the Saxon colony who
+occupied the peninsula. Le Croisic was one of the first towns in Brittany
+which received Christianity, and bears for its arms a cross between four
+ermines. Along the road-side are cisterns or wells dug in the sand, and
+girls were filling with water the classical stone pitchers they carried
+upon their heads—quite an Eastern picture, suggestive of Rebecca and the
+damsels of her country. Le Croisic is almost surrounded by the sea, low,
+and without shelter, which renders it cold, damp, and exposed to the
+winds; turf is almost the only fuel used.
+
+It is much frequented as a watering-place, and has an Etablissement. It is
+also a sea-port, with a rocky entrance to the harbour, and the dangerous
+rock with its lighthouse, called Le Four, extending for a league in front.
+The inhabitants of Le Croisic are principally engaged in the sardine
+fishery, and the curing of these fish consumes much of the salt of the
+marshes. The people complain this year they have no large orders for
+sardines, and there is but little white salt.
+
+The chapel of St. Goustan, on the edge of the harbour, is singularly
+built; its western gable perched upon a little rock, half of which is
+inside and half outside the building. The church is no longer open for
+Divine service; but the peasant-girl who desires to know if she will be
+married this year, tries to pass a pin through the bars of the northern
+window without touching the wall. On the opposite side of the estuary are
+Périac and La Turbale, both seats of the sardine fishery. Returning the
+way we came, we stopped at the Plage Valentin, another bathing-place in a
+pretty little bay; with dressing-rooms and a small Etablissement. An
+omnibus conveys the bathers from Le Croisic, for two sous. The sea looks
+more inviting here and at Poulignan than at Le Croisic, where there is so
+much seaweed in the harbour. We returned through Batz; the cathedral tower
+of Saint Aubin at Guérande is to be seen at a great distance, and is a
+prominent object in the scenery; the whole country is covered with
+salt-pans. Guérande stands on a height, and turning back, the view of the
+whole district is most extensive. We passed through Saillé, where Duke
+John IV. married Joan of Navarre, afterwards the second wife of Henry of
+Lancaster.
+
+Guérande, built on a vine-covered granite slope, is a singular old feudal
+town of the fifteenth century. It was fortified by Duke John V., and is
+nearly surrounded by granite walls, with ten towers and four old gateways,
+placed at the cardinal points of the compass. St. Michel, the principal
+gate, or rather a fortress, is flanked by two high towers, and contains
+the prison, archives, and hôtel de ville. A moat formerly surrounded the
+walls; but it has long been filled in, and boulevards substituted. From
+the battlements hang festoons of honeysuckle and ivy, and the moat is full
+of the yellow iris and water-lilies; nevertheless, Guérande has an
+austere, sombre aspect. There is a fine terrace walk, called the Mail,
+commanding a view of the whole country over Poulignan, Batz, and Le
+Croisic—a tented plain of salt.
+
+[Illustration: 47. La Roche Bernard.]
+
+The church of St. Aubin has Romanesque columns, with grotesque capitals.
+In one, two persons are sawing a third, stretched upon a wheel. On the
+left of the double-arched porch, is a pulpit outside the church, and there
+is some good painted glass within. Notre Dame Blanche, a chapel of the
+fourteenth century, is a pretty little building with stone pulpit and a
+sculptured group of Notre Dame-de-la-Salette with the two peasant children
+of Alsace. Next day, we took a private carriage for La Roche Bernard; the
+road lying over a wide extent of land through Herbignac to La Roche
+Bernard (Morbihan), which is most picturesquely situated on a rocky height
+overhanging the Vilaine, here traversed by an elegant suspension-bridge,
+opened in 1839, about 666 feet long and above 108 feet above high-water
+mark—a terrible dizzy height to cross even in calm weather. A few years
+since, the postman, his cart, and horse were all blown over into the
+river, and nothing more was ever heard of them. We went fishing several
+days in a large étang close to La Roche Bernard, and one evening took a
+pretty walk over the hills to another pond situated in a lovely secluded
+valley near a water-mill. La Roche Bernard was an early Protestant colony,
+founded by the Sieur d’Andelot, Seigneur of La Roche Bernard, brother to
+Admiral Coligny, and one of the firmest supporters of Calvinism. The
+Calvinists used to assemble at his château of Bretesch, where the minister
+of La Roche Bernard came to preach to them. D’Andelot and his sister, who
+was equally zealous in the cause, are, it is said, interred at La Roche
+Bernard. Near the Halles is a square block of houses; one of timber, with
+"Voie au Duc" inscribed upon it. These houses are said to have belonged to
+a Protestant community, and all to communicate with each other.
+
+The evening of our arrival there was a wedding supper given at our hotel,
+the grand dinner having taken place elsewhere. The bride wore a white
+sash, with wreaths of white flowers round her Nantais cap. After supper
+the party danced Breton "ronds." The dancers form a large ring (grand
+rond), holding each other’s hands, which they swing violently as they
+sidle round in a kind of hop-skip-and-a-jump step, accompanied by singing
+in a most monotonous tone. This went on until midnight. This kind of dance
+dates, they say, from Celtic times. The music consists of the biniou or
+bagpipe, and the flageolet or hautboy, sometimes with the addition of a
+drum. The biniou, cornemuse, or bagpipe, is the national instrument of
+western and southern France. How it came to be introduced into Scotland
+and expel the harp—which was as much the original music of Scotland as of
+Wales and Ireland—is a mystery. But, as in the sixteenth century the harp
+went out and the bagpipes came into fashion, it may be surmised that it
+was brought in, with other French novelties, on the return of Queen Mary,
+perhaps by the Queen herself, or, maybe, some itinerant player of the
+cornemuse may have accidentally been in her train, and his music set a
+fashion which has now become national.
+
+On market-day numbers of the women from Muzillac, a place about ten miles
+distant, came in with their fruit. They all wear an enormous plaited black
+cap, which looks like the cowl of a friar. The graceful form of the
+earthenware pots attracted our attention: probably they came from the
+adjacent town of Herbignac. The 15th August, Fête de la Vierge, and also
+that of the Emperor, was kept as a general holiday. An immense concourse
+of people arrived from the neighbourhood, and attended the six o’clock
+mass. We walked to the quay, to see the sports on the water; the
+spectators picturesquely grouped on a mass of bare rocks, commanding a
+pretty view up and down the river.
+
+The amusements consisted of some races, and a mât de cocagne, or greased
+pole, placed horizontally over the river; the feat being to walk safely to
+the end, where the prize was fixed, without falling into the water. In the
+evening "ronds" were danced, and every house had illuminations, in the
+shape of a candle stuck in a potato, and placed on each end of the window
+sill.
+
+Next day we left by diligence for Vannes, passing through Muzillac and on
+to Auray, where we took the steamer for Belle Isle.
+
+A steamer sails daily from the quay at Auray. The banks of the River Loch
+are very picturesque, the pine-trees (_Pinus maritima_) growing to the
+water’s edge. On the left, the islands of the Morbihan; on the right,
+Locmariaker; the view extending to Carnac and Mont St. Michel, over the
+whole sweep of the bay formed by the peninsula of Quiberon.
+
+At Port Navalo we emerged from the Morbihan, and, on our right, passed the
+little rocky island of Teigneuse, with its lighthouse; and, on the left,
+those of Houat and Haedik (the duck and the duckling); the former famous
+as the retreat of St. Gildas, who leaped from here with one bound, a
+distance of ten miles, to the peninsula of Rhuys, where he built his
+monastery. From Auray to Belle Isle is in all forty-eight miles—ten miles
+of river to Port Navalo, the rest open sea. After eight hours’ sail we
+reached Le Palais, the port and principal town of Belle Isle, built on the
+north-east side, and overhung by the citadel, the work of Vauban. The town
+consists of one principal street—the Rue Trochu—so called after the
+General of that name and his brother, who were the first, at the beginning
+of this century, to introduce agriculture into the island. We passed, at a
+distance to the right, the model farm of M. Trochu fils, on our way across
+the island to the lighthouse,—a cheerless drive, as there are no trees to
+be seen except near Le Palais. When M. Trochu commenced his labours,
+agriculture was little attended to in France, but he persevered in his
+exertions, beginning by clearing about sixty acres of granite rock, a land
+covered with heath and furze, setting at defiance the Breton saying,
+"Lande tu fus, lande tu es, lande tu seras." This same district is now
+covered with rich meadows, fine woods, productive arable fields, and
+magnificent pasture land, on which horses are extensively reared.
+
+[Illustration: 48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.]
+
+We gathered on the heathy moor three kinds of heath, the Cornish among
+others. The artichoke grows wild in the waste grounds. Wheat, turnips,
+beetroot, Indian corn, and potatoes, are the chief produce of the land in
+cultivation. This last vegetable was introduced by the families from Nova
+Scotia (Acadia), who settled in Belle Isle, after that province was ceded
+to England by the Treaty of Paris, in 1766. This was several years before
+Parmentier had extended the use of the potato, or "truffe rouge," as it
+was first called, over other parts of France. Indian corn was probably
+also brought in by the Nova Scotians. The leaves are constantly cut during
+its growth as fodder for the cattle, so that the cob hardly attains a foot
+in height from the ground. On the left of our road we saw in the distance
+the village of Bangor, which gives its name to one of the four districts
+into which Belle Isle is divided. A little south is the fine granite
+lighthouse, of the stupendous height of 450 feet. We toiled up 255 steps
+(223 stone and 32 iron) before we gained the lantern, and, though the view
+was very extensive, we were rejoiced at finding ourselves safe down. One
+of the guardians had been waylaid, kicked, and beaten, a few evenings
+before, for some slight grudge. He seemed in great suffering, but had no
+doctor; the Breton, in his simple confiding faith—that with the Almighty
+are the issues of life and death, and that illness will end according to
+His decree—considers the calling in of a medical adviser but an
+unnecessary expense to his family. From the lighthouse we walked to the
+sea-shore. Belle Isle is a table-land, surrounded by steep cliffs,
+averaging 130 feet in height, which can only be descended to the shore in
+particular places. We walked to the Grotte du Port Coton, where begins the
+"Mer Sauvage," as it is called, an extent of five to six miles of most
+picturesque rocks, some elevated from 130 to 160 feet above the level of
+the sea, jagged and torn into most fantastic forms by the ceaseless
+dashing of the waters of the Atlantic, which have formed various grottoes
+in the cliffs. We descended into one of these caverns by a narrow gulley,
+but could not proceed far, as the tide was entering fast, and would soon
+have surrounded us, cutting off all means of retreat.
+
+[Illustration: 49. Device of Fouquet.]
+
+It reminded us of the description in the ’Vicomte de Bragelonne’ of the
+grotto at Locmaria, which was blown up, and crushed the mousquetaire
+Porthos, at the moment of his and Aramis’ triumph over the soldiers of the
+King. So great at times is the fury of the waves, that our guide at the
+lighthouse told us he had seen on several occasions the spray driven over
+to Le Palais, nearly five miles distant. Continuing our walk along the
+cliffs, we came to an enormous mass of rock, standing far out detached
+from the cliff, and covered with screaming sea-gulls. We again descended
+by another fissure into a pretty sandy cove, surrounded by the same wild
+granite rocks; but in most places there is no beach at all. It was now
+high water, so it was useless to attempt the Grotte des Apothécaires,—the
+finest, they say, of them all, and we returned to Le Palais well pleased
+with the remarkably wild coast we had seen. Belle-isle forms now a canton
+in the department of Morbihan. In ancient days it belonged to the Abbot of
+Saint-Croix, at Quimperlé, who sold it, in the time of Charles IX., to the
+Maréchal de Gondi, and, in 1573, it was erected into a Marquisate.
+(Cardinal de Retz lived here after his escape from the castle of Nantes.)
+One of his successors, Henri de Gondi, being overwhelmed with debt, sold
+the island to Nicolas Fouquet, the ill-fated Superintendent of Finance, on
+whose disgrace, and his being subsequently consigned to the fortress of
+Pignarol, his grandson, the Marquis de Belle Isle, exchanged it with Louis
+XV. for the Comté of Gisors, erected into a duchy in 1742. Fouquet built a
+palace and completed the citadel, for which he employed Vauban. He also
+projected fortifications to enclose the town, which are now in course of
+completion by the Emperor, after Vauban’s plans. Several guns had just
+been landed, the day before we visited the citadel, to see which an order
+is requisite. Near the citadel is the "Maison centrale des détenus," now
+only containing a few old men, too feeble for hard labour. We were too
+tired to walk to look at the celebrated cistern of Vauban, which holds, we
+were told, above thirty thousand imperial gallons of water. Fouquet’s
+palace was, it is said, destroyed to complete the line of fortifications.
+A house was pointed out to us as having formed part of the original
+building. Some years since, a stone was picked up in the harbour bearing
+his ambitious device—a squirrel, with the motto, _Quo non ascendum?_ "To
+where shall I not rise?"  The greater number of the population of Belle
+Isle are employed in the fisheries; of these the sardine and the tunny are
+the chief. There are large establishments for curing sardines, which are
+very abundant, and lobsters, taken in the rocks of Belle Isle and the
+little islands of Houat and Hædic, are sent to London and Paris. The boats
+go as far as Spain, to the coast of Catalonia, for the tunny fishery,
+which extends from August to the beginning of October. These fish are
+taken by lines hung along the sides of the vessel, with a bell attached to
+each to give notice of a bite. The most esteemed part of the tunny is the
+underneath, or "panse." The next morning we sailed back to Auray. The
+nearest point to Belle Isle is Quiberon, only ten miles from Le Palais.
+From Auray by rail to Quimper, where we took the diligence to Pont l’Abbé,
+an old town formerly of some importance, in the midst of a fertile, rich
+country. The costume worn at Pont l’Abbé and along the Bay of Audierne is
+very singular. The cap, or "bigouden," is composed of two pieces: first, a
+kind of skull-cap, or serre-tête, fitting tight to the head over the ears,
+then a little round bit, resembling, the young people said, a "pork-pie"
+hat, made of starched linen, pinched into a three-cornered peak, the
+middle peak embroidered and tied on by a piece of tape fastening under the
+chin; the hair is turned up, "en chignon," over the skull-cap. The body of
+the dress has a large "pièce" of red or yellow, and sleeves to match. The
+men wear several very short coats, one over the other, the shortest
+trimmed with fringe; sometimes sentences are embroidered with coloured
+woollens round the edge. It was market day; the women were sitting, with
+distaff and spindle, on each side of the entrance to the Halle. Some of
+them have short bead-chains with a ring, attached to the left shoulder, to
+stick their distaffs in when not at work. There was abundance of fruit and
+vegetables, potatoes, and sardines, which, with bigoudens and other
+articles of dress, formed the principal commodities for sale. Pont l’Abbé
+and its Port, Loctudy, carry on an extensive trade with Jersey, and large
+quantities of potatoes are exported to that island. There were some Jersey
+merchants at the table-d’hôte.
+
+[Illustration: 50. Peasant Girl. Pont l’Abbé.]
+
+The church of Pont l’Abbé has only one aisle. There is a fine rose window
+over the west entrance, of great lightness and richness, with a smaller
+one at the left; at the east end is another rose window of larger
+dimensions, the mullions forming geometric patterns, but differing in
+design from the other. The French architects always took great pains in
+the decoration of this part of the church, and these wheel windows really
+rival those of Rouen.
+
+[Illustration: 51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.]
+
+Attached to the church, are the cloisters of the Carmelite convent to
+which the church formerly belonged, built in the beginning of the
+fifteenth century by Bertram de Rosmadec, who had so much contributed to
+the completion of the cathedral at Quimper. The square is surrounded by an
+interlaced circular arcade, forming trefoiled pointed arches, all in
+excellent preservation. The access to the cloisters is through the
+conventual building, now a private house and garden, the proprietor kindly
+granting us permission.
+
+We drove to Loctudy, on the mouth of the Pont l’Abbé river opposite the
+little island of Tudy, called after an English saint of that name. Fleeing
+from the persecutions of the Picts and Scots who desolated his country, he
+founded here, at the end of the fifth century, a considerable monastery,
+afterwards destroyed by the Normans.
+
+At Loctudy is a curious Romanesque church, one of the best preserved in
+Brittany, which dates from the Templars of the twelfth century. It has a
+nave with aisles going all round the choir, and three round apsidal
+chapels at the end. The five arches on each side of the nave are
+horse-shoe shaped, and the choir is surrounded by the same number of high
+narrow arches, resting on columns with grotesque capitals of complicated
+design. The three chapels behind are seen through the opening; on one of
+the capitals is sculptured the cross of the Templars. The whole building
+is spoiled by whitewash.
+
+
+    “Chevaliers en ce monde cy
+    Ne peuvent vivre sans souci;
+    Ils doivent le peuple defendre,
+    Et leur sang pour la foi espandre.”
+                    EUSTACHE DESCHAMPS.
+
+
+[Illustration: 52. Torche of Penmarch.]
+
+We engaged a rough kind of vehicle, much like a butcher’s cart, to visit
+the Torche de Penmarch, a rocky promontory, so called from its fancied
+resemblance to a horse’s head, forming the southern extremity of the
+department of Finistère. The Torche is a mass of rocks separated from the
+mainland by a chasm called the "Saut de Moine," because an Irish saint,
+named Viaud, jumped across it on his landing. In rough weather, the noise
+made by the sea dashing against its sides and rushing through the crevices
+of the rocks, is said to be heard at Quimper, a distance of twenty-one
+miles. A line of rocks runs all along the coast, marked by a lighthouse at
+Penmarch; we proceeded to another group of rocks near which M. de
+Châtellier, a proprietor and antiquary of this country, has built a house
+for painting and enjoying the scenery. One of our party clambered down to
+see the "Trou d’Enfer," a tremendously deep hole in the rocks, the bottom
+covered with a pink sort of sea-weed, and the water as clear as crystal.
+The whole country is a dreary sandy level, with salt-marshes, over which
+we passed to the ruined church of St. Fiacre, and close by is that of St.
+Guenolé, both situated near the sea. The countryman who showed us the
+church, knelt reverently down at the threshold and put up a short prayer
+before he entered the sacred building. The general devoutness and strong
+faith of the Bretons is most impressive and genuine, mixed, no doubt, with
+great superstition; but, as Wesley says, "Heaven makes allowance for
+invincible ignorance, and blesses the faith notwithstanding the
+superstition."
+
+[Illustration: 53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. Church of St. Guenolé,
+Penmarch.]
+
+St. Guenolé consists of an unfinished square tower, with crocketed
+pinnacles and a porch of considerable size, under a large mullioned window
+of the fifteenth century. On each side of the porch are rude sculptures of
+ships and fishes, not uncommon in these parts, set there to show the
+church has been built with the thank-offerings of the fisher population of
+the district. In our tour we met with several churches with this sign,
+evidences of the piety of the fishermen; indeed, at Dunkirk, when the
+church was burned down in the sixteenth century by the French, it was
+entirely rebuilt by the contribution called "le filet saint," from an
+ancient custom among the fishermen of having one net so called, the
+produce of which was set apart for the church.
+
+[Illustration: 54. Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch.]
+
+Towards the lighthouse are the ruins of the old town of Penmarch, much
+celebrated in the maritime history of the fourteenth to sixteenth
+centuries; its commerce extended even to Spain, and the riches of its
+inhabitants were so surpassingly great, that they drank out of silver
+cups, and the lords of a manor near the Torche furnished the silk required
+to line the road traversed by religious processions, their wealth being
+due to the "viande de carême," that is to say, to the cod fishery. But the
+discovery of Newfoundland deprived them of this lucrative monopoly, and
+the ravages of Fontenelle le Ligueur completed their ruin. All now is a
+scene of desolation. Penmarch has been called the Palmyra of Brittany.
+
+Guy Eder Fontenelle, the Leaguer, who spread terror and devastation
+throughout Brittany in the sixteenth century, was a member of the
+Beaumanoir family; the name he adopted was that of one of the family
+estates. He was born in the Château of Beaumanoir (near Evran), and his
+elder brother early foresaw his guilty career. He escaped from college and
+united himself with a set of young men as lawless as himself; they formed
+themselves into a band, which soon became the dread of all Brittany. They
+ravaged the whole of Tréguier and Cornouaille, surprised the châteaux of
+Coëtfrec and others, took the church of Carhaix, which they fortified, and
+the towns of Paimpol, Lannion, and Landerneau, which they pillaged,
+Penmarch and Pontcroix, whence they carried off an immense booty and 300
+vessels, with which they scoured the seas; and lastly, Douarnenez and the
+Island of Tristan (in 1595), whence fruitless attempts were made to
+dislodge them. For three years Fontenelle made this island his
+head-quarters, issuing from his stronghold to devastate the country. He
+murdered above fifteen hundred peasants at Plougastel, sank an English
+ship, without allowing her crew a moment to save themselves, imprisoned
+and tortured at Douarnenez all who fell into his hands. His victims never
+survived his cruelties more than three or four days, when their bodies
+were cast out into the bay to the fishes. These were only a few of his
+atrocities. As he called himself one of the leaders of the League in
+Brittany, the Duke de Mercœur, its chief, indignant at the barbarities
+perpetrated in its name, caused Fontenelle to be imprisoned, but he was
+liberated on paying a ransom; and, fearing he would give Douarnenez over
+to the Spaniards, Fontenelle was included in the pacification of Mercœur
+with Henry IV. But four years later he was implicated in the conspiracy of
+Biron; on which occasion all his old crimes were raked up against him, and
+he was condemned to be dragged on a hurdle, and broken alive upon the
+wheel, which sentence was executed on the Place de Grève at Paris in 1602.
+In consideration of the illustrious house to whom he belonged, the king
+granted that in the act of condemnation he should not go by his own name.
+We next went to see the church of Saint Nonna in the town, the largest of
+the numerous churches in the parish of Penmarch. Ships are sculptured in
+front of the tower, as at St. Guenolé. On the left of the porch is a
+pretty window, the mullions formed by three fleur de lis. In the church is
+a curious old painting styled, "Procession du vœu de Louis XIII."
+Portraits of the King, the Dauphin (Louis XIV.), Anne of Austria, and
+Cardinal Richelieu, are introduced, and a view of the church of St. Nonna
+is in the background.
+
+[Illustration: 55. Fleur-de-Lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch.]
+
+On our way home we passed, on the left, at Kerscaven, two menhirs, one
+curiously furrowed and shaped like a half-opened fan.
+
+We had a pretty drive from Pont l’Abbé, with occasional views of the Bay
+of Audierne, extending from Penmarch to the Pointe du Raz. Midway the
+horse, going down a steep hill, fell, and we all found ourselves upon the
+road, but happily unhurt. We met numbers of peasants returning from the
+fair at Pontcroix; and our driver, a butcher by trade, coolly stopped the
+vehicle, to discourse with them on the price of stock, and to handle the
+sheep they had bought. Our drive was enlivened with occasional peeps of
+the Bay of Audierne till we reached the little port of that name, the view
+of which is very pretty. Audierne is approached by a bridge across the
+river or estuary. At its entrance is a lighthouse, and on the right a
+sandy bay, with bathing-machines in the season.
+
+[Illustration: 56. Pointe du Raz.]
+
+The town consists of three streets of cut granite houses, with the name of
+the builder and the date of their construction inscribed over the door.
+Fishing is the occupation of the inhabitants, and the table-d’hôte at our
+comfortable, clean, little inn was plentifully supplied with magnificent
+john dorys, large red mullet, langoustes, and fish of every description.
+
+From Audierne we took a carriage to visit the Pointe du Raz, a promontory
+so famous for its rocks and wrecks. We went through a treeless country;
+near a pretty bay, on the left, is the chapel of Notre Dame-de-Bon-Voyage,
+destined chiefly for sailors, after which the country becomes more wild,
+barren, and cheerless. We passed over a bridge which no Breton would dare
+to cross at night, for fear of being flung by the spirits into the river.
+According to their belief, a hare appears on the bridge, and terrifies the
+horses, who throw their rider, and the traveller is dragged by the phantom
+into the muddy river, where he is kept till morning’s dawn, when he is
+allowed to pursue his way, exhausted with cold, and half dead with fright.
+They are very superstitious here, as in all Cornouaille. A writer says,
+"every nation of the earth has its superstitions and absurdities, but
+Brittany has those of all other nations united." An old woman in a village
+hard by, said our driver, has never been seen inside the walls of a
+church; the people say she has sold herself to the evil one, and no one
+dares go near or speak to her.
+
+On the left is the pretty steeple of the church of Plogoff, situated on an
+eminence, and dedicated to Saint Collédoc, a Welsh bishop of the sixth
+century, contemporary of King Arthur, and associated with many of the
+doings of Queen Guinevre and the knights of the Round Table. Lescoff is
+the last village we passed through before—after driving over a barren
+plain—we arrived at the lighthouse, built thirty years back at the Pointe.
+
+We walked thence to the Pointe, a gigantic and magnificent mass of rocks,
+eighty feet above the level of the sea. We met with a good-natured woman,
+who led the young people over the rocks to look down the "Enfer de
+Plogoff." They had a slippery scramble to reach the hole, a kind of tunnel
+through which the sea rushes with great violence, so much more terrible
+than that of Penmarch, that the noise has been compared to the distant
+roaring of some thousands of wild beasts issuing from the depths of a
+forest. In the mean time, we remained seated on the bank enjoying the
+view. On the south lay the Bay of Audierne, extending in the form of a
+crescent, the promontories of Penmarch and Raz forming the extreme points.
+The currents, and the numerous rocks of the bay, render it a dangerous
+coast, formerly peopled by barbarous wreckers, who despoiled the
+shipwrecked mariners as our Cornish men of old. Opposite the Raz, about
+seven miles distant, is the Island of Sein, and to the right, the Baie des
+Trépassés. The island of Sein was anciently the seat of an oracle,
+interpreted by nine Druidesses, who were versed in every art and science.
+Moreover, they appear to have been accomplished needlewomen; for a Breton
+chronicler, giving an account of the coronation of an early king (Erech)
+at Nantes, describes his mantle as embroidered by these priestesses with
+figures of Arithmetic, Astronomy, and Music. Their skill in divination
+caused them to be associated with the fairies; and Morgan—_i.e._ "born of
+the sea"—one of these priestesses, who lived in the first century of the
+Christian era, was famous among the British fairies.
+
+
+    “Avec succès cultivait la magie,
+    Morgan de plus, était assez jolie.”
+
+
+Chateaubriand celebrates Velleda, the last of the Druidesses of Sein, tall
+in stature, her eyes blue, with long fair floating hair, dressed in a
+short black tunic, without sleeves, bearing a golden sickle suspended from
+a brazen girdle, and crowned with a branch of oak. Here King Arthur was
+brought by Merlin to recover of his wounds. The inhabitants of the island
+were celebrated for their ferocity as wreckers.
+
+The passage between the island and the point or Bec du Raz—"qu’aucun n’a
+passé sans mal ou sans crainte"—is very dangerous, owing to the number of
+rocks and the violence of the currents; hence the well-known prayer of the
+Breton sailor, "Mon Dieu, secourez-moi pour traverser le Raz, car mon
+navire est petit et la mer est grande." Having no wish to run the risk of
+being detained at the island by rough weather, we did not attempt the
+passage.
+
+The Baie des Trépassés, over which we looked on the right, is so called
+from the Celtic legend that the Druids embarked in this bay after their
+death, to be buried in the island of Sein:—
+
+
+    “Autrefois, un esprit venait, d’une voix forte;
+    Appeler chaque nuit un pêcheur sur sa porte;
+    Arrivé dans la baie, on trouvait un bateau
+    Si lourd et si chargé de morts qu’il faisait eau,
+    Et pourtant il fallait, malgré vent et marée,
+    Les mener jusqu’à Sein, jusqu’à l’île sacrée.”
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+The bay also derives its name from the numerous shipwrecks that have taken
+place on its rocks, and from the number of corpses that have been floated
+there by the currents from ships foundered in the gulf comprised between
+the entrance of Brest, the Ouëssant Islands, and Sein. The whole extent of
+the coast of Brittany is one long wall of rocks, placed as it were to
+protect it from the inroads of the sea and from foreign invasion. Heaped
+one over the other, they resemble the bastions of a citadel, the advanced
+rocks extending out to sea, jutting up in every direction in endless
+reefs. Or its line of coast may be compared to the jagged teeth of a comb,
+with a second line of defence in the rocks further out to sea.
+
+On the desolate shore of the Baie des Trépassés is a piece of water, the
+étang de Laoual, site of the city of Is—submerged by Divine vengeance,
+according to popular tradition, in the fifth century—a place of great
+commerce, arts, riches, and also of luxury. Gradlon, or Grallo, the king,
+alone attempted to stem the torrent. Built in the vast basin which now
+forms the Bay of Douarnenez, it was protected from the ocean by a strong
+dyke, the sluices only admitting sufficient water to supply the town. King
+Gradlon kept the silver key (which opened, at the same time, the great
+sluice and the city gates) suspended round his neck. His palace was of
+marble, cedar, and gold; in the midst of a brilliant Court sat enthroned
+his daughter Dahut, a princess who "had made a crown of her vices, and had
+taken for her pages the seven capital sins." Taking advantage of the sleep
+of her father, Dahut one night stole the silver key, and instead of
+opening the city gate, by mistake unlocked the sluices. The King was
+awakened by St. Guenolé, who commanded him to flee, as the torrent was
+reaching the palace.  He mounted his horse, taking his worthless daughter
+behind him. The torrent was gaining upon him fast, when a voice from
+behind called out, "Throw the demon thou carriest into the sea, if thou
+dost not desire to perish." Dahut felt her strength failing her; the hands
+that convulsively grasped her father’s waist relaxed their hold; she
+rolled into the water, disappeared, and the torrent immediately stopped
+its course. The King reached Quimper safe and sound, and that town became
+afterwards the capital of Cornouaille.
+
+So runs the legend. That a great city once existed in the Bay of
+Douarnenez admits of no doubt. Besides the religious chronicles of the
+country, which have preserved the memory of its existence, in the
+sixteenth century, remains of old edifices were standing at the entrance
+of the bay, old paved roads have been traced, and walls found under water
+near the Pointe du Raz.
+
+The tradition of a town thus swallowed up is common among the Celtic race.
+In Wales, the site of the submerged city is in Cardigan Bay; in Ireland,
+in Lough Neagh:—
+
+
+    “On Lough Neagh’s banks, where the fisherman strays,
+            At the hour of eve’s declining,
+    He sees the round towers of other days
+            Beneath the waters shining.”—MOORE.
+
+
+One of our party went out fishing to the Pointe, and returned well laden
+with his spoils.
+
+[Illustration: 57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.]
+
+The road from Audierne to Douarnenez passes by Pontcroix, a little town on
+the same river (Goazien) as Audierne, along which the road runs—a charming
+drive. It has a magnificent Romanesque church of the twelfth (probably of
+the fifteenth) century, with a remarkable porch, richly embroidered in
+quatrefoils and trefoils. A tower in the centre, with octagonal spire is
+second to none in Cornouaille, except that of Quimper. The arches of the
+nave are horseshoe, the transepts very narrow. Under the altar of the Lady
+Chapel is a "Cène," half the size of nature, sculptured in ivory and
+marble, of marvellous workmanship.
+
+[Illustration: 58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame de-Comfort, near
+Douarnenez.]
+
+Eleven miles from Douarnenez we stopped to see the pretty little chapel of
+Notre Dame-de-Comfort, in a hamlet of that name, with light open-work
+steeple. Attached to one of the arches, on the left of the choir, is a
+wooden wheel, hung round with bells, to which is attached a long string.
+It is erroneously called "the wheel of fortune;" but is, in fact, the old
+wheel of sacring bells in use before the single bell was adopted. The boy
+who showed us the chapel pulled the string which was fastened to a hook
+near the altar, and the wheel revolved and rang a merry peal. Formerly
+there was a little wooden figure attached to the wheel, which performed
+the same office. The road runs round a hill, along an estuary formed by
+the river, and suddenly the beautiful lake, called the Bay of Douarnenez,
+bursts on the sight, of a blue as lovely as the Italian seas.
+
+The dirty little town of Douarnenez is charmingly situated to the south of
+the bay, the hills clothed with trees to the water’s edge. The Pointe du
+Raz forms the western boundary of the bay, and it is shut in to the north
+by the peninsula of Crozon; its extreme point, Pointe de la Chèvre,
+advancing nearly midway into the bay. The tide here falls eighteen feet.
+The triple peaks of the Méné-Hom, one of the Montagnes Noires, is a
+prominent feature in the view. Islands are scattered over the gulf, and
+the island of Tristan, retreat of Fontenelle le Ligueur, is so close to
+Douarnenez, that it may be reached on foot at low water.
+
+The hotel was crammed, gentlemen sleeping on the billiard-table, or
+littered down in the room of the table-d’hôte: the place was crowded. All
+the world had flocked in to assist at the Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue,
+which was to take place the following morning. No vehicle was to be had,
+and we were in despair of being able to go, when a good-natured voyageur
+kindly offered to drive us in his carriage—a proposal we thankfully
+accepted. In all our wanderings we had hitherto never been so fortunate as
+to see a Pardon, and we were very anxious to go.
+
+The Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue takes place the last Sunday in August,
+continuing three days, and is one of the most frequented in Finistère.
+
+[Illustration: 59. Costume of a Finistère Bride.]
+
+At Plonevez-Porzun we turned off the Crozon road, and about two miles
+further arrived at the chapel. The road all the way was lined with
+peasants walking to the Pardon. The young men of Douarnenez wear blue
+jackets, embroidered in colours, with rows of plated buttons, the sleeves
+and waistcoat of a darker blue than the jacket, scarlet sashes, some with
+plaited bragou bras and shining leather gaiters; but most of them wore
+trowsers, their hair long, and their hats with two or three rows of
+coloured variegated chenille. The women had square caps, and aprons with
+bibs. Those who were in mourning wore light yellow caps, called
+"bourladins," stained that colour with beeswax or saffron.
+
+St. Anne is a newly-built church, standing on the slope of a down which
+separates it from the sea, in a perfectly insulated situation. It is only
+opened once a year for the Pardon. Round it were erected numerous stalls,
+with toys, epinglettes, and rosaries (chapelets), in heaps for sale; for
+rosaries must always be purchased at the Pardon, to preserve the wearer
+from thunder and hydrophobia. The great fabric for them is at Angers,
+where they are made in immense quantities. In the principal manufactory a
+steam-engine is used for turning the beads; in the others the common
+lathe. One maker told us she sent annually into Brittany alone rosaries to
+the value of 800_l_. There were tents and booths erected for the
+accommodation of the pilgrims who had arrived the preceding day. They eat,
+drink, and dance in the tents by day, and sleep on the tables at night.
+
+At ten o’clock, at the ringing of a bell, a procession was formed,
+consisting of a long line of peasants, preceded by priests and banners,
+which made the round of the church; the penitents, en chemise to the
+waist, barefooted, carrying wax-tapers in their hands. The penance is
+sometimes executed by proxy: a rich sinner may, for a small sum, get his
+penance performed by another. One woman made the round of the church on
+her knees, telling her beads as she hobbled along. This was in performance
+of a vow made for some special deliverance.
+
+We proceeded to the top of the hill, from which the beautiful Bay of
+Douarnenez presented a most lively appearance; fleets of small boats
+arriving from every direction, and a huge steamer from Brest, which was
+obliged to land its passengers in small boats, on account of the
+shallowness of the water.
+
+The appearance of the downs now became very animated, covered with
+gaily-dressed peasants arranged in groups, sitting or lying on the grass,
+in every kind of attitude.
+
+At four o’clock the grand procession took place. First came the priests of
+all the surrounding districts, with the banners and crosses of their
+parishes; then followed five girls (three and two) in white, carrying a
+banner, and eight more in similar attire, bearing a statue of the Virgin.
+Next appeared the banner of Sainte Anne, carried by women in the gorgeous
+costume of the commune—gowns of cherry-coloured silk, trimmed half the way
+up with gold lace, a silver lace scarf, and aprons of gold tissue or rich
+silk brocade. Under their lace caps was a cap of gold or silver tissue.
+Four more of these superbly-dressed bearers ("porteuses") carried the
+statue of Ste. Anne.
+
+[Illustration: 60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.]
+
+Girls carrying blue flags walked by their side. Troops of barefooted
+penitents and shaggy-headed beggars closed the procession, which was
+followed by a countless train of the peasants. It slowly wound its way
+over the hill, and again descended to the church, where it mingled among
+the crowds of assembled spectators, which filled the churchyard and were
+seated on the steps of the calvary.
+
+Not far from the church is the holy well of Ste. Anne, where devotees were
+engaged pouring the holy water over their hands and backs, dipping their
+children, and testing its miraculous efficacy by various other ablutions.
+
+We proceeded next morning to Quimper, having had no opportunity of seeing
+Douarnenez itself. In the season it is a favourite watering-place, the
+bathing being about two miles from the town. It is a great place for the
+sardine fishery. From Quimper we went by rail to Rosporden, whence an
+omnibus runs to Concarneau. The church of Rosporden is situated on a
+little promontory, jutting out into a large étang fed by the river Aven,
+which runs through it and flows on to Pontaven.
+
+We took a carriage at Rosporden for Le Faouët, passing by Scaër on the
+Isole, a stream which rises at the foot of the Montagnes Noires, takes a
+curve round the town of Scaër, and joins the Laita. It is full of trout
+and salmon.
+
+Scaër is a town remarkable for having preserved many old customs and
+superstitions; among others, the bees are considered to be entitled to
+share in the joys and sorrows of the family. Their hives are surrounded
+with a red stuff on the occasion of a marriage; with a black on that of a
+death. This custom is still preserved in Wales. In all parts of Brittany
+bees are treated with special affection. As the redbreast is sacred,
+because she broke a thorn from the crown of our Lord that pierced His
+brow, so are the bees revered because, as we learn from the code of Hoel
+the Good, though they were sent from heaven to earth after the fall of
+man, the blessing of Heaven has ever followed them in their exile. This,
+too, is the reason the wax they produce has the privilege of lighting the
+altars for the divine office.
+
+[Illustration: 61. Cross Stones.]
+
+It was the day of a Pardon, and the peasants were all in gala dresses. A
+wrestling match unfortunately had just been finished; for throughout
+Cornouaille wrestling has been, from time immemorial, as favourite a game
+as in our county of the same name. Our driver tried without success to
+procure for us some of the little double crystals, intersecting each other
+at right angles, called "pierre de croix"—by mineralogists grenatite—found
+in the Coatdry, a small affluent of the Aven, washed out of the mica slaty
+rocks in which they abound. The peasants assign to them a miraculous
+origin, and wear them in little bags round the neck as charms against
+headache, blindness, shipwreck, and hydrophobia, being, as they allege,
+signed with the cross. According to tradition, a pagan chief, having, in
+his impious rage, thrown down the cross in the chapel of Coatdry, Heaven,
+in memorial of the outrage, placed the sacred symbol upon the stones of
+the river.
+
+At Le Faouët we again entered the department of the Morbihan. This pretty
+little town is situated between the Sterlaer and the Ellé. We first walked
+to see the chapel of Ste. Barbe, perched, in the most singular manner, in
+the cleft of a high rock, about a mile from the town.
+
+After a steep climb we reached the plateau of the hill, where is the
+monument of a M. Berenger, who desired to be buried in this elevated spot,
+which commands a charming view of the surrounding country, the silvery
+waters of the Ellé winding at the base of the mountain. We then descended,
+by a flight of handsome, broad, granite steps, with balustrades, to the
+chapel, placed on so narrow a space that it was impossible to give it the
+usual inclination to the east. The entrance-porch is to the southwest, and
+the high altar opposite, against the walls of the chapel, to the
+north-east. On the top of the steps is the belfry, consisting of a roof,
+supported by four columns. The day of the Pardon each pilgrim rings the
+bell. The chapel was built in this singular spot, according to tradition,
+by a knight, who was overtaken by a storm in the valley of the Ellé
+beneath. He saw an enormous mass of detached rock on the point of falling
+down and crushing him, when he invoked the intercession of Sainte Barbe,
+the guardian saint against thunder, promising to build her a chapel, if
+delivered from the danger. His prayer was heard; the rock was stayed in
+its descent and rested on the cleft, where, next day, the grateful knight
+began building the chapel, as a thank-offering for his escape. Above Ste.
+Barbe, stationed on an insulated rock, one of the highest peaks in
+Brittany, is a small chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, also approached by
+a flight of stone steps, like Ste. Barbe, with bridge built over an
+archway. The rock on which it stands is so abrupt, that rings are placed
+along the sides of the chapel for the pilgrims, when creeping round, to
+hold on by. Many have perished in the attempt; none, they say, have ever
+succeeded in making the circuit.
+
+There was a wedding at Le Faouët during our stay there. Guests, invited
+from all quarters, to the number of 250, arrived in their gala costumes,
+some of them magnificent: one woman wore a gown entirely of gold tissue;
+it was her wedding-dress. The musicians, with biniou and hautboy, went
+round to summon the guests. We saw the procession going to church. The
+bride was prettily dressed, with a high cap, beautifully "got up," pointed
+in form, and trimmed with lace, and embroidered; a muslin apron, also
+lace-trimmed, and a double muslin shawl, similarly trimmed, the lace
+beautifully plaited; a violet silk dress, white moire sash, and a small
+bunch of white flowers. The bridegroom was "en bourgeois." Outside the
+church door were tables, laid out with cakes; after the service the bride
+and all the party took each a cake and put money in the plates, as an
+offering for the poor. They next adjourned to the Place, where they danced
+three "gavottes" under the trees. The ceremony of stealing away the bride
+then took place; that is, she was chased by some dozen of the youths of
+the company, and he who had the good fortune to capture her she treated to
+a cup of coffee at a café. Dinner followed, and then they returned to the
+interminable gavotte. They hold each other’s hands "en grand rond," then
+wind themselves round the centre couple, executing most elaborate steps,
+and uncoil again to return to the grand rond. We counted as many as thirty
+couples in one gavotte. These festivities last two, or sometimes three,
+days, during which time all the wedding party are entertained free of
+expense.
+
+Le Faouët is a great fishing quarter. The Ellé, which flows round the
+town, is a stream of considerable size; and, four miles below Le Faouët,
+it is joined by the Laita, and before Quimperlé unites its waters with the
+Isole, whence its mingled streams flow into the Atlantic, under the name
+of the Laita. We were told that large fish were taken in a pond in the
+grounds of the Abbey of Langonnet, not far from Le Faouët, but it is
+strictly preserved.
+
+The people of this district retain all the old Breton superstitions; they
+believe in the Car of Death, drawn by six black horses, driven by the
+"Ankou," or Phantom of Death, with an iron whip. They also have full faith
+in the Washerwomen of the Night (Lavandières de la Nuit), who wash the
+shrouds for the dead, and fill the air with their melodious songs:—
+
+
+    “Si chrétien ne vient nous sauver,
+    Jusqu’au jugement faut laver:
+    Au clair de la lune, au bruit du vent,
+    Sous la neige, le linceul blanc.”
+
+
+    “If no good soul our hands will stay,
+    We must toil on till judgment-day:
+    In strong wind or clear moonlight,
+    We must wash the death-shroud white.”
+
+
+They engage the passer-by to help them in wringing the linen; if he
+refuses, they drown him in their washing trough, or suffocate him in a wet
+sheet. Should he show himself ill-disposed, after having agreed to help
+them, they dislocate his arm. If he wrings the wrong way, his fate is
+inevitable; but if docile and obliging, they give him some clothes and
+dismiss him.
+
+[Illustration: 62. Rood-Screen or Jubé, St Fiacre.]
+
+A mile and a half from Le Faouët, on a height a little off the Quimperlé
+road, is the beautiful church of Saint Fiacre, dating from the middle of
+the fifteenth century, celebrated for its carved wooden jubé, or
+rood-screen, and its painted glass. The church is falling to decay. It
+would be tedious to enumerate all the figures, and describe the details of
+this beautiful jubé. The carving is a perfect tracery of lace-work. Three
+large figures represent our Saviour and the two thieves. Then there are
+the Virgin and St. Joseph; the latter, with carpenter’s plane and hammer.
+Below, Adam and Eve, and the Angel with the flaming sword. Two angels hold
+cartouches, on one of which is inscribed, "L’an mil C/IIII XX/IIII (1480)
+fut fait cette sculpture par Olivier de Loergan;" and, on the other,
+"Cette passion fut peinte l’an 1627. Yves Perez fabricant. Tous repaint en
+1866." Below are panels carved in the flamboyant style, of exquisite
+workmanship. The two middle panels have the sacred monogram, those on the
+east side ermines surrounded by cordelières.
+
+The side of the rood-loft facing the choir has pendents with grotesque
+carvings of allegorical signification.
+
+A man in an apple-tree, gathering the fruit, symbolizes theft. Next comes
+a disgusting representation of gluttony: a man relieving himself of a pig
+he has swallowed, the tail alone remaining in his mouth. Then follow a
+young man and woman, gaily attired, emblematic of luxury. So far, three of
+the "sept péchés capitaux" are represented; but after these comes a
+national subject: a man playing on the bagpipe. The figures throughout the
+rood-screen are all boldly executed, and the tracery most elegant and
+delicate.
+
+The painted glass in the church is considerable, and represents the Life
+of Our Saviour, that of St. Fiacre, the Feast of Herod, and the Martyrdom
+of the Baptist, figures of the Prophets of the Old Testament, with many
+others. In most of the subjects, the figures are much mutilated. On one
+window is inscribed, "Pierre Androuet ouvrier demeurant à Kemperlé 1552."
+Over one altar is a sculpture, representing the Martyrdom of Saint
+Sebastian, between two archers, in the quaint costume of the sixteenth
+century.
+
+About six miles from Le Faouët, is the ruined castle of Poncallec, with
+its forest, étang, and forge; once the demesne of the young marquis of
+that name, who was implicated in that conspiracy to transfer the Regency
+from the Duke of Orleans to Philip V. of Spain, called the plot of
+Cellamare. Of the hundred and forty-eight gentlemen included in the
+accusation, all escaped to Spain, except Poncallec and three others.
+Poncallec refused to accompany them from a superstitious fear, a
+fortune-teller having foretold he should perish by the sea, "par la mer."
+They took refuge in a church, but were surprised by a party of cavaliers
+who had muffled the feet of their horses to reach them unheard. They
+escaped through a subterranean passage, and, for fifteen days, lay
+concealed in the hollow of a yew-tree, fed in secret by faithful peasants.
+Poncallec traversed France in the disguise of a priest, but was arrested
+at the Pyrenees. He with the three others were all convicted of high
+treason, and, a few hours after their condemnation, were beheaded at
+Nantes. Poncallec was the last to suffer. When ascending the scaffold, he
+asked the executioner his name; on his answering "La Mer," Poncallec felt
+the witch’s prophecy was fulfilled.
+
+The estates of the four victims were confiscated, their arms effaced from
+the fronts of their houses, the moats of their castles filled in, and
+their trees (hautes futaies) cut down, "à hauteur d’infamie," that is,
+within nine feet of the ground, in like manner as were those of Moor Park,
+after the execution of the Duke of Monmouth. A list was presented to the
+Regent Philip of other offenders, but he tore the paper, and published an
+amnesty. The story of Poncallec is dramatically told by Alexandre Dumas,
+in his novel, called ’Une fille du Regent.’ The Bretons honoured the
+victims as martyrs, and M. de la Villemarqué, in his ’Chansons Bretons,’
+gives a touching elegy which shows the sympathy excited by the tragic fate
+of Poncallec:
+
+
+    “Quand il arriva à Nantes, il fut jugé et condamné,
+        Condamné non par ses pairs,
+    Mais par des gens tombés de derrière les carrosses.
+          Ils demandèrent à Poncallec:
+          ’Seigneur marquis, qu’avez vous fait?
+          —Mon devoir; faites notre métier.’
+    Il est mort, chers pauvres, celui qui vous nourissait,
+    Qui vous vêtissait, qui vous soutenait;
+    Il est mort celui qui vous aimait, habitants de Berné
+    Celui qui aimait son pays et qui l’a aimé jusqu’à mourir.
+            Il est mort à vingt-deux ans
+      Comme meurent les martyrs et les saints;
+            Que dieu ait pitié de son âme!
+      Le seigneur est mort … Ma voix s’éteint, …
+      Toi qui l’as trahi, sois maudit, sois maudit;
+            Toi qui l’as trahi, sois maudit.”
+
+
+We left Le Faouët and its comfortable primitive inn, the "Lion d’Or," with
+much regret; the country around is beautiful, and we had arranged to set
+out early that we might cross the Montagnes Noires by daylight; but we
+were disappointed in procuring a carriage, and it was not till late in the
+afternoon that we were able to leave in a diligence, of which the coupé
+alone was reserved to us, the interior being occupied by Breton farmers,
+returning from a horse-fair. From the elevated wooded ground of Le Faouët,
+the road makes a precipitous descent, and crosses the little stream of
+Moulin-au-duc, after which it again rises, in a winding direction, along
+the side of a mountain with a valley and little stream beneath. Then a
+rapid descent brought us to Gourin, where we would gladly have risked
+staying the night, and waited till morning to pursue our road over the
+mountains, but we had paid our fare to Carhaix. Up hill and down again,
+like all the roads in mountainous Finistère, from Gourin we ascended again
+and passed a crest of the Montagnes Noires, which separates the three
+departments of Finistère, Morbihan, and Côtes-du-Nord; and proceeded
+through a valley to Carhaix, where we arrived at midnight, and therefore
+had no opportunity of seeing the beauties of the mountain scenery.
+
+Carhaix is a dirty, unpaved, dull town of the middle ages, much decayed
+from its ancient importance when capital of the country dismembered from
+Cornouaille, in the sixth century, by Comorre the Breton Bluebeard. It is
+situated on an eminence, commanding an extensive view of the barren
+monotonous surrounding country, bounded by the Arré mountains, the Alps of
+Finistère. It is the centre of Lower Brittany, and the Duke d’Aiguillon,
+Minister of Louis XV., caused six roads to be made from it to Brest,
+Quimper, Morlaix, St. Brieux, Vannes, and Châteaulin, with the hope of
+introducing commerce and civilisation into this barren district, "le
+dernier trou du monde," as it is styled by the Parisian.
+
+La Tour d’Auvergne, Premier Grenadier de France, was born here, and a
+bronze statue of him, by Marochetti, has been erected to his memory. He is
+in the uniform of a private soldier, and presses to his heart the sword of
+honour just presented to him by the First Consul. Round the pedestal are
+four bas-reliefs, representing scenes in his life. In the first, he saves
+a wounded soldier; in the second, he forces the gates of Chambery; in the
+third, he takes leave of the parents of a youth, for whom he goes as a
+substitute into the army. The last represents his death; he was killed by
+a lance at Ober-hausen (Bavaria), fighting against the Austrians. The
+monument bears this inscription on its four sides:—
+
+  “La Tour d’Auvergne, 1^er Grenadier de France, né à Carhaix le 23
+  Decembre, 1715; mort au champ d’honneur le 27 Juin, 1800.
+
+  “Ecrivain, Citoyen, Soldat, sa vie toujours glorieusement remplie ne
+  laisse que de sublimes exemples à la posterité.
+
+  “Tant de talens, et de vertus, appartenaient à l’histoire et au premier
+  Consul, de les devancer.
+
+  “Celui qui meurt dans une lutte sacrée trouve pour le repos une patrie
+  même sur la terre etrangère.”
+
+Preferring the title of "Premier Grenadier de France" to higher honours,
+La Tour d’Auvergne remained as a private soldier to his death; but in a
+decree of Buonaparte, then First Consul, preserved in the Musée des
+Archives, he orders that La Tour d’Auvergne’s name should still be kept on
+the muster-roll of his old regiment; and, when called, the corporal should
+answer, "Mort au champ d’honneur!"
+
+The moderation and absence of ambition in the character of La Tour
+d’Auvergne is expressed in a letter to Le Coq, Bishop of Ille-et-Vilaine.
+He writes,—"Je me prosterne bien plus volontiers devant la Providence pour
+le remercier que pour rien demander; du pain, du lait, la liberté; et une
+cœur qui ne puisse jamais s’ouvrir à l’ambition, voilà l’objet de tous mes
+désirs."
+
+La Tour d’Auvergne had a learned dog, which he educated as a soldier; he
+went through the whole drill, and his master made him always wear boots.
+He marched in them, on one occasion, the whole distance from Paris to
+Guingamp.
+
+A horse fair and market were going on at Carhaix. Some of the women wore
+curious flannel hoods, edged with colours. There were baskets of burnt
+limpet shells and lime, used in washing as substitutes for soap. In the
+porch of the church dedicated to St. Tremeur (son of the Bluebeard
+Comorre) are some of the little skull-boxes so common in the north of
+Brittany. One was labelled, "Ci gît le chef de Mr. Thomas François Nonet,
+ancien notaire et maire de la ville de Carhaix le 28 J^ier 1776, décédée
+le 8 7^bre 1842." The curfew bell rings at Carhaix at a quarter to ten.
+
+We left next day for Huelgoat, fifteen miles distant, the road up and
+down, wild and dreary. At Pont Pierre, about nine miles from Carhaix, we
+crossed the Aulne, even here a considerable river, with a beautiful thick
+forest on our right. At a place called La Grande Halte, we turned off the
+road to the right for Huelgoat, about a mile and a half off. It is
+prettily situated on a large pond or lake, nearly a mile and a half in
+circumference, and of great depth (20 feet). It was market day; the men
+wore brown serge coats, close white breeches and black gaiters, with straw
+hats bound with black. The countrymen from Saint Herbot were there in
+their black shaggy goat or sheepskin overcoats, the hair turned outwards
+(there are flocks of black sheep throughout Finistère), without sleeves,
+and the white breeches, black gaiters, and straw hats. The women of
+Huelgoat wear large white turnover collars and caps with long ends turned
+up.
+
+We first walked to the rocking stone on the slope of a steep hill,
+considered the third largest in Brittany; the block forming a kind of
+double cube, that is, about twice the length of its height. It requires a
+very slight impulse to make it rock. This "fairy stone" is often consulted
+by the peasants. In the ravine close by, below the path, is what is called
+the "Cuisine de Madame Marie," but termed in the guide-books the "Ménage
+de la Vierge;" a recess formed of large masses of fantastically shaped
+granite rocks, through which a small stream of water flows, arriving
+thither from the pond, by a subterranean course. One stone, hollowed out,
+is called the écuelle of the Virgin, and others have each the name of some
+different utensil requisite for the "Ménage" of our Lady. The young people
+managed to scramble to the bottom.
+
+Huelgoat (Breton, "high wood") is celebrated for its lead-mines, which are
+now no longer worked. A well-kept path, cut on the top of the ridge, leads
+to the mines, about two miles and a half distant, along a neat little
+canal, three feet wide, issuing from the great pond, and supplying the
+hydraulic machine used to pump the water out of the mine. The deeply
+wooded valley, along the ridge of which it runs, is traversed by a rushing
+stream, which runs over rocks; and at a place called Le Gouffre, the
+rounded granite masses are piled in the wildest confusion, like those of
+the Ménage de la Vierge, forming a large dark cavern, at the bottom of
+which the imprisoned river foams and roars, and has forced itself an
+escape through a gorge at some distance from the place, where it is lost
+to view. A young girl is said, about a century back, to have fallen down
+this gulf. Attempting to gather some of the mosses that line the sides of
+the rocks, she slipped in and perished in the sight of her intended. Her
+body never reappeared, but our guide assured us that her ghost was seen
+four years since, and that sighs and groans are to be heard at eve issuing
+from the fatal chasm.
+
+The pretty little ivy-leaved campanula was growing here in abundance. We
+visited in succession the "robber’s cave," the "Pierre cintré" (a natural
+archway), and other wonders, and returned much pleased with the infinite
+variety of fantastic rocks, rushing waters, and hanging woods, which form
+this charming scene.
+
+The lead-mines of Huelgoat have been worked since the fifteenth century
+for the silver which the lead-ore (galena) contains.
+
+The right of working these mines and those of Poullaouen was given by
+Louis XIII. to Jean du Châtelet, Baron of Beausoleil, and his wife. He was
+at that time General of the Mines in Hungary, and inspector of the French
+mines. They were accompanied by German miners, but their mysterious
+researches caused them to be accused of sorcery and magic. Richelieu had
+them imprisoned in the Bastille, where they both died, victims of the
+fanaticism of the age, and the works were abandoned till the eighteenth
+century. They are now no longer in operation, but it is said are about to
+be re-opened.
+
+Retracing our steps to La Grande Halte, on the Carhaix road, we turned off
+to the left to see the cascade of St. Herbot. We left our carriage, and
+walked up a hill covered with underwood, opposite the fall. The cascade is
+formed by the little river Elez falling through a mountain gorge about 650
+feet  in length, filled with granite rocks of every shape and size, the
+sides overhung with woods of oak. The height of the fall is 230 feet.
+
+There was no water in the cascade. At the best, it must be only a
+succession of small falls. The river tumbles from rock to rock, forming on
+some of the ledges pools of water, filled with small trout, some of which
+were caught by our party.
+
+According to the legend, a giant of the country, wishing to clear the
+fields of his friend, a Druid, from the rocks that encumbered them, rolled
+them down the torrent.
+
+We descended the hill to the road where we had left our carriage, and went
+to the chapel of St. Herbot, a building of the sixteenth century, on the
+side of a rushing brook. It has a high square tower opening into the
+church, and a rood-screen of wood beautifully carved in the style of the
+Renaissance, which forms three sides round the altar. Two angels are
+represented with cups, the "sainte graal" receiving the blood of Christ.
+The entrance to the church is up a flight of steps. It has a beautifully
+sculptured south porch, with statues of the Apostles, and some fine
+painted-glass windows. One part of the church has the windows with iron
+bars, as if for defence.
+
+[Illustration: 63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]
+
+Near the altar is the tomb of the anchorite, St. Herbot; his effigy
+reposes under a Gothic canopy, upon a granite sarcophagus, represented in
+his hermit’s gown, the hood thrown back, flowing hair, long beard, his
+breviary suspended to his girdle, and his pilgrim’s staff by his left arm.
+His feet repose on a recumbent lion. St. Herbot is the great patron of
+cattle; the three days of the fair and pardon all the bullocks rest; and
+when an animal is ill, an offering of his hair is made to the saint. We
+saw a heap of horsehair and cows’ tails lying on one of the altars. These
+are annually sold for the profit of the church, and the proceeds amount to
+a considerable sum. Our guide gravely assured us that on the first of May,
+day of the Pardon of St. Herbot, the cows "d’elles mêmes" walk three times
+round the church.
+
+[Illustration: 64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]
+
+We returned late to Carhaix, and left next day for Guingamp, passing,
+about two miles out of the town, through the village of St. Catherine on
+the Hierre, where the church has fleur-de-lisé windows, like that of
+Penmarch. We here entered the department of the Côtes-du-Nord through
+Callac, where we changed horses; the country was hilly and wooded. On the
+left we saw the spire of the church of Notre Dame-de-Grâces, where repose
+the remains of Charles of Blois; on the right appeared the cathedral
+towers of Guingamp. At this last place we took the rail to Caulnes-Dinan,
+and on, by diligence, to Dinan, whence we proposed returning by St. Malo;
+but, finding the time of the boat’s sailing did not suit our arrangements,
+we returned by Paris and Dieppe to London.
+
+
+
+
+
+SOME USEFUL DATES IN THE HISTORY OF BRITTANY.
+
+
+  1320. Du Guesclin born.
+  1338. Marriage of Charles of Blois and Jeanne de Penthièvre.  Du
+              Guesclin at the tournament.
+  1341. Death of John III. Beginning of the War of Succession.
+  1342. John de Montfort, prisoner in the Louvre, 1345. Escape to England
+              and death.
+  1346. Siege of Hennebont defended by Jeanne de Flandre.
+  1347. Charles of Blois taken prisoner at La Roche Derrien.
+  "   War of the two Jeannes.
+  1351. Combat of the Thirty.
+  1356. Charles of Blois liberated.
+  1359. Siege of Dinan.
+  1364. Battle of Auray.
+  1365. Treaty of Guérande.
+  1370. Du Guesclin, Constable of France.
+  1375. John IV. flees to England.
+  1380. He is recalled.
+  1387. Death of Du Guesclin.
+  1387. Clisson marries his daughter to Jean de Penthièvre.
+  1407. Death of Clisson.
+  1420. Seizure of John V. by the Penthièvres.
+  1488. Battle of St. Aubin du Cormier.
+
+
+
+
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE DUKES OF BRITTANY.
+
+
+                                    []
+
+
+
+1. GEOFFROY II.                        CONSTANCE
+3rd son of Henry II.,--------=--------Heiress of Britanny
+    1175                     |
+                          Arthur,
+                           1196.
+
+CONSTANCE,------------=-----------2. GUY DE THOUARS
+Heiress of            |
+Brittany.           Alix,
+                    1213------=-----Pierre de Dreux.
+                              |
+                       John II., 1286.
+                Beatrix, daughter of Henry III.
+                              |
+                              |
+1. Maria,-------------=------Arthur II., 1305----------------------------------=-----2. Jeanne de Montfort.
+Vicountess            |                                                        |
+de Limoges            |                                                        |
+                      |                                         +--------------+--------+
+          +-----------+----------+                              |                       |
+          |                      |                 Jean Comte de Montfort + 1345.    Beatrix.
+Jean III. (Bon), 1313.   Gui Comte de Penthièvre.........Jeanne de Flandre........Gui de Laval.
+Isabelle de Valois.              |                              |                       |
+                                 |                              |                Beatrix de Laval
+                          Jeanne la Boiteuse.        Jean IV. (Vaillant), 1366.         |
+                        Charles de Blois + 1364 ....... 1. Mary of England.      Richard de Bretagne.
+                                 |                       2. Joan Holland.........Marguerite d’Orleans.
+          +----------------------+--------------+       3. Joan of Navarre.             |
+          |                      |              |               |                       |
+Jean Comte de Penthièvre.       Gui.           Henri.           |                       |
+Marguerite de Clisson.     Died in captivity.                   |                       |
+          |                                       +-------------+-----+           Francis II., 1458
+   +------+-------+                               |                   |
+   |      |       |                         John V., 1439     Arthur III., 1457...1. Marguerite de Bretagne.
+Olivier Charles Guillaume ................ Jeanne de France      Constable.       2. Marguerite de Foix.
+                                                  |                                     |
+        +----------------------+------------------+--------+                            |
+Francis I., 1442.         Pierre II.,          Maria.     Gilles.                  Anne, 1488.
+1. Yolande d’Anjou.       1450.                         Francoise de Dinan.......1. Charles VIII.
+2. Isabeau d’Ecosse.     Francoise d’Amboise.                                    2. Louis XIII.
+                                                                                        |
+                                                                                   +----+----+
+                                                                                 Claude.   Renée.
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+Abelard, 192.
+Ancenis, 217.
+Angoulême, Duke and Duchess, 167.
+Anne, of Austria, Queen, 122, 269.
+Anne de Beaujeu, Regent, 203, 229.
+Anne of Brittany, Queen-Duchess, 42, 50, 62, 98, 121, 153, 221, 222, 223.
+Arré, mountains, 103, 136, 297.
+Arthur and Geoffroy Plantagenet, 216.
+Arthur III., Duke of Brittany, Constable of France, 190.
+Artois, Comte d’, 29.
+Auray, 157.
+Auray, battle of, 161.
+Auray, Ste. Anne d’, 158.
+Avranches, 23.
+Audierne, 269.
+
+Baciocchi, Princess, 187.
+Baie des Trépassés, 274.
+Barbès, 28.
+Barkers (aboyeurs), 214.
+Bas-Foins, 49.
+Beaumanoir Chapel, 56.
+Beaumanoir, Jean de, 52, 206.
+Beauport, Abbey of, 76.
+Belle-Isle-en-Mer, 250.
+Bellière, Château of, 54.
+Berri, Duchess, 226.
+Bertheaume, Island, 128.
+Bigouden, 258.
+Biniou, 249.
+Bisson, 155, 194.
+Blanche of Castille, 149.
+Blue Beard, Breton, 194.
+Boisgelin, Château, 75.
+Bonchamps, 237.
+Bourg-de-Batz, 217.
+Brest, 118.
+Bretesch, Château of, 248.
+Breton bed, 239;
+— butter, 153;
+— character, 99;
+— chestnuts, 203;
+— cow and pig, 153;
+— distaffs, 259;
+— farmhouse, 86;
+— knitting, 74;
+— soup, 112;
+— threshing, 117;
+— vehicles, 37.
+
+Cancale, 39.
+Carnac, 177.
+Cesson, Tour de, 71.
+Carhaix, 297.
+Chalais, Comte de, 226.
+Champ des Martyrs, 166.
+Champtoceaux, Château de, 218.
+Chandos, Sir John, 16, 46, 89, 162.
+Châteaubriand, 36, 41.
+Châteaulin, 135.
+Chatelet, J. du, 302.
+Chêne-Ferron, Château of, 57.
+Cherbourg, 1.
+Charles the Bad, 134.
+Charles of Blois, 67, 75, 82, 161.
+Charles V., 223.
+Charles VI., 185.
+Charles VII., 47, 191.
+Charles VIII., 203, 229.
+Clisson, Constable, 25, 89, 186, 209.
+Clisson, Marguerite, 89, 218.
+Colomb, Michel, 127, 221.
+Combat des Trente, 206.
+Combourg, Château de, 36.
+Comorre, 194, 297.
+Concarneau, 142.
+Conquet, Le, 128.
+Constance of Brittany, 216.
+Cornouaille, 135.
+Costume, 23, 133, 140, 234, 249, 258, 283, 288, 298.
+Couëron, 34.
+Couësnon, 29.
+Courcorro, 181.
+Coutances, 19.
+Crêpes, 11, 169.
+Croisic, Le, 232.
+Crosses, 104.
+
+D’Andelot, Sieur, 248.
+Dinan, 44, 50.
+Dinan, Françoise de, _see_ Françoise.
+Dinan, Roland de, 53.
+Dinard, 44.
+Dogs of St. Malo, 42.
+Dol, 30.
+Douarnenez, 276, 279.
+Dubourg, 29.
+Du Guesclin, 24, 44, 45, 51, 53, 74, 143, 162, 209.
+
+Elven, Château of, 199.
+Edward III., 15, 112, 153, 223.
+Edward IV., 201.
+Escoublac, 232.
+Estouteville, Sieur d’, 13, 26.
+Epinglettes, 160.
+Ermine, Order of, 126.
+
+Filet, saint, 264.
+Faouët, Le, 287.
+Folgoët, Le, 120.
+Fouquet, N., 256.
+Francis I., Duke of Brittany, 47, 126 _note_, 185.
+Francis II., Duke of Brittany, 221, 229.
+Françoise de Dinan, 46, 215.
+Fontenelle le Ligueur, 267.
+Frérie Blanche, 72.
+Frobisher, 134.
+
+Gavr’ Inis, 174.
+Gesril du Papeu, 166, 167.
+Gilles de Bretagne, 46.
+Goëmon (wrack), 94.
+Grallo, King, 139, 275.
+Guérande, 245.
+Guimiliau, 115.
+Granville, 21.
+Guingamp, 72.
+
+Hædic, Isle, 250, 257.
+Haye du Puits, La, 17.
+Harcourt, G. d’, 15.
+Hennebont, 156.
+Henry II., 4, 24, 26.
+Henry IV., 71, 134, 191.
+Henry V., 13, 26, 134, 201.
+Henry VI., 201.
+Henry VII., 201.
+Henry VIII., 128.
+Henri IV., 216, 225.
+Hercé, 167, 183.
+Hoche, Gen., 166.
+Hunaudaye, Château de la, 62.
+Huelgoat, 300.
+
+Indian corn, 251.
+Inclined axis of church, 106.
+Is, City of, 274.
+Ingrandes, 217.
+
+James II., 72, 205.
+Jean de Montfort, 67, 112, 153.
+Jeanne d’Arc, 190.
+Jeanne de Flandre (Montfort), 83, 156.
+Jeanne de France, 185, 219.
+Jeanne de Penthièvre, 83.
+Jeanne (Joan) of Navarre, 106, 121, 134, 194, 246.
+John I. (Roux), 189, 194.
+John II., 204.
+John III. (Bon), 67, 160, 205.
+John IV. (Victorieux), 25, 67, 71, 119, 121, 126, 160, 185, 223, 246.
+John V., 88, 121, 185.
+Josselin, Château, 211.
+Jugon, 61, 187.
+
+Kergrist, Château, 96.
+Kermartin, 84.
+Kermario, 177.
+Kersanton stone, 122, 135.
+Kerserho, 181.
+Kerscaven, 269.
+Knights Templars, 69.
+Knollys, Sir R., 119, 143.
+Korn-er-Hoët, 187.
+La Forêt, Bay, 143.
+La Garaye, Château of, 57.
+Lamballe, 67.
+Lanleff, 68.
+Langoat, 83.
+Langoustes, 94, 147.
+Lannion, 94.
+Lanvaux, Lande de, 187.
+Larochejaquelin, 22.
+La Tour d’Auvergne, 297.
+Lehon Abbey, 56.
+Lavandières de la Nuit, 290.
+Lesage, 188.
+Léonnais, 103.
+Léon, Viscounts, 110.
+Lézardrieux, 80.
+Lessay, 17.
+Locmariaker, 170.
+Loctudy, 261.
+Lorient, 155.
+Louis XI., 26, 201.
+Louis XII., 32, 223.
+Louis XIV., 119, 189.
+
+Manny, Sir W., 128, 153, 157.
+Manoir, 81.
+Martinvast, 12.
+Matilda, Empress, 3.
+Mary, daughter of Edward III., 106.
+Mercœur, Duke de, 225.
+Menhir, 35.
+Mingant Rock, 119.
+Minihy (sanctuaries), 88.
+Mivoie, Chêne de, 207.
+Montafilant, Château, 46.
+Montfort, 215.
+Mont St. Michel, 25.
+Motto of Dukes of Brittany, 126, 161.
+Morbihan Sea, 174.
+Morlaix, 97.
+
+Nacqueville, Château, 6.
+Nantes, 221.
+Napoleon I., 3, 4.
+Notre Dame-de-Comfort, church, 279.
+Notre Dame-du-Roncier, 213.
+
+Octeville, 5.
+Ouëssant Isle, 128, 133.
+
+Paimbœuf, 229.
+Paimpol, 80.
+Palais, Le, 251.
+Penmarch, 263.
+Penmarch, Torche de, 262.
+Penthièvre, 149, 210, 225.
+Périers, 18.
+Perros Guirec, 92.
+Peter, Duke, 72.
+Philip Augustus, 28.
+Pierre de Dreux, 216.
+Pierres de Croix, 286.
+Pleudaniel, 81.
+Ploërmel, 203.
+Plouaret, 96.
+Plougastel, 133.
+Plouharnel, 180.
+Ploumanach, 92.
+Pointe du Raz, 271.
+Pole, W. de la, Earl of Suffolk, 13.
+Pontacallec, Marquis de, 226, 294.
+Pontaven, 150.
+Pontcroix, 276.
+Pont l’Abbé, 257.
+Pontorson, 24.
+Port Navalo, 250.
+Potatoes, 251.
+Poulignan, 233.
+Porzmoguer, 130.
+
+Querqueville, 5.
+Quiberon, 165.
+Quimper, 138.
+Quimperlé, 151.
+
+Rance River, 43.
+Richelieu, Cardinal, 96, 119.
+Richelieu, Duke, 82.
+Rennes, 216.
+Retz, Cardinal, 226.
+Rieux, Marshal, 202.
+River scenery, 103, 216, 250.
+Roads, 84, 91.
+Roche Bernard, La, 247.
+Roche Derrien, La, 82.
+Roche Jagu, La, 81.
+Rochefort, Chancellor, 229.
+Rocking stones, 93, 149, 300.
+Rohan family, 98, 99, 111, 210.
+Rosaries, 282.
+Roscoff, 111.
+Rosgrand, 153.
+Rosporden, 285.
+Rustéphan, Château, 149.
+
+Sacring bells, 279.
+Saire, Monk of, 5.
+Ste. Anne la Palue, 282.
+St. Armal, 204.
+— Aubin du Cormier, 229.
+Ste. Barbe, 287.
+St. Brieuc, 71.
+— Corentin, 137.
+— Cornély, 178.
+— Fiacre, 20.
+—  "  church, 293.
+— Florent, 217.
+— Génévroc, 105.
+— Germain, 5, 34.
+— Gildas, 192.
+— Guenolé, 263.
+— Herbot, 303.
+— Ives, 85, 88.
+— Léonard, 75.
+— Malo, 39.
+— Mathieu, 129.
+— Michael, Order of, 26.
+— Nazaire, 230.
+— Pair, 23.
+— Pol de Léon, 103.
+— Samson, 32.
+— Thégonnec, 114, 117.
+— Urlose, 152.
+— Vincente Ferrar, 184.
+Salt, 233.
+Sardine fishery, 144.
+Sarzeau, 192.
+Scaër, 285.
+Scales, Lord, 21.
+Sein, Isle, 272.
+Sevigné, Madame de, 203.
+Skull-boxes, 91.
+Sœurs de la Miséricorde, 16.
+Sœurs de le Providence, 11.
+Sombreuil, Comte de, 164, 183, 184.
+Stuart, Charles, 113, 230.
+Stuart, Mary, 98, 112.
+Sucinio, Château, 189.
+
+Teigneuse, Isle, 250.
+Thomas à Becket, 24.
+Tocqueville, A. de, 7.
+Tombeleine, Isle, 28.
+Touquédec, Château, 95.
+Tourlaville, Château, 7.
+Tréguier, 88.
+Trégunc, 149.
+Trieux River, 80.
+Trinité, La, 130.
+Tumiac, Butte de, 199.
+Typhaine, the Lady, 24, 44, 54.
+
+Valognes, 14.
+Vannes, 183.
+Varades, 217.
+Vendean army, 217.
+Veneti, 183.
+Venus’ ear, 2.
+Victoria, Queen, 1, 3, 14.
+
+Walsh, 230.
+War of the two Jeannes, 83.
+War of Succession, 67 _note_.
+Washing, 18.
+Wells, holy, 125, 285.
+Welsh Baptists, 100.
+William the Conqueror, 4.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBERS’ NOTES
+
+
+The following substitutions were applied to the text by Project Gutenberg
+proofers and transcribers—
+
+On page 7: "recals" —> "recalls"
+On page 25: "John IV Duke of Britanny" —> "Brittany"
+On page 93: "slighest" —> "slightest"
+On page 104: "calvarys" —> "calvaries"
+In Ill. 22: "Creisker" —> "Creizker"
+On page 144: "mackarel" —> "mackerel"
+On page 149: "out out" —> "out"
+On page 167: twice "d’Angoulme" —> "d’Angoulême"
+On page 178: "Erdevan" —> "Erdeven"
+On pages 196/197: several extra double quotes removed
+On page 212: "ballustrades" —> "balustrades"
+On page 270: "promonotory" —> "promontory"
+On page 272: "corronation" —> "coronation"
+On page 303: "in in" —> "in"
+
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS***
+
+
+
+CREDITS
+
+
+>November 9, 2007
+
+            Project Gutenberg TEI edition 02
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+***FINIS***
+
\ No newline at end of file
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@@ -0,0 +1,7165 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Brittany & Its Byways by Fanny Bury
+Palliser
+
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no
+restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under
+the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or
+online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+
+Title: Brittany & Its Byways
+
+Author: Fanny Bury Palliser
+
+Release Date: November 9, 2007 [Ebook #22700]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO 8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS***
+
+
+
+
+
+Brittany & Its Byways
+
+
+by Fanny Bury Palliser
+
+
+
+
+Edition 02 , (November 9, 2007)
+
+
+
+
+
+                          BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS
+
+                             SOME ACCOUNT OF
+                  ITS INHABITANTS AND ITS ANTIQUITIES;
+                   DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY.
+
+                          BY MRS. BURY PALLISER
+
+[Illustration: Vignette: St. Michael's Mount]
+
+                       WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                            ------------------
+
+                                  London
+
+                                   1869
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+Contents.
+List of Illustrations.
+Britanny and Its Byways.
+Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany.
+Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany.
+Index.
+Transcribers' Notes
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                              --------------
+
+CHERBOURG--Mont du Roule--Visit of Queen Victoria--Harbour,
+1--Breakwater--Dock-Yard, 2--Chantereyne--H�pital de la Marine,
+3--Castle--Statue of Napoleon I.--Library--Church of La Trinit�,
+4--Environs--Octeville, 5--Lace-school of the Soeurs de la Providence, 11.
+
+QUERQUEVILLE--Church of St. Germain, 5--Ch�teau of the Comte de Tocqueville,
+6.
+
+TOURLAVILLE--Ch�teau, 7--Cr�pes, 11.
+
+MARTINVAST--Ch�teau, 12.
+
+BRICQUEBEC--Castle--History, 12--Valognes, 14.
+
+ST. SAUVEUR-le-Vicomte--Demesne--History, 15--Castle--Convent--Abbey, 16.
+
+P�RIERS, 17--La Haye-du-Puits, 17--Abbey of Lessay--Mode of
+Washing--Inn-signs, 18--Church, 19.
+
+COUTANCES--Cathedral--Churches, 19--F�te of St. Fiacre, 20.
+
+GRANVILLE--Situation--History--Church, 21--View from the
+"Roc"--Bathing-machines--Defeat of the Vendean army--Death of La
+Rochejacquelin, 22--Costume of the Women--Environs--St. Pair, 23.
+
+AVRANCHES--Extensive View--Scene of Absolution of Henry II.--Cemetery, 24.
+
+PONTORSON--Story of the Lady Typhaine, 24--Government by Du Guesclin--Mont
+St. Michel, 25--Chapel of St. Aubert--Visits of English kings--Pilgrimages of
+Kings of France, 26--Convent of "La Merveille," 27--Isle of La
+Tombeleine--Prison, 28--The Iron Cage, 29.
+
+DOL-DE-BRETAGNE--Street Architecture, 30--Cathedral, 31--Tomb of Bishop
+James--Chapel of St. Samson, 32--Monks, 33--Dyke, 34--Menhir, 35--Ch�teau of
+Combourg, 36--Chateaubriand, 37.
+
+CANCALE--Oysters, 37--Wretched public vehicles, 38--Bay, 39.
+
+ST. MALO--Situation, 39--Sea-wall, 40--Tomb of Chateaubriand--Memorials of
+him, 41--Watch-dogs, 42--Castle--History, 43--DINARD, 44.
+
+DINAN--Ascent of the Rance--Statue of Du Guesclin, 44--Siege of 1359--Duel of
+Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorb�ry, 45--Castle of Montfilant--Story of
+Gilles de Bretagne, 46--Lunatic Asylum--Castle of Dinan, 50--Church of St.
+Sauveur, 51--Museum, 52--Environs--Ch�teau of La Belli�re, 54--Ch�teau of La
+Garaye--Count Claude de la Garaye and his Wife, 57--Jugon, 61--Castle of La
+Hunaudaye, 62--Legend of La Hunaudaye, 63--Forest of La Hunaudaye--The Chouan
+War, 66.
+
+LAMBALLE--Jeanne la Boiteuse--War of Succession, 67--Temple of Lanleff,
+68--Tradition of the blood-spots, 70.
+
+ST. BRIEUC--Palais de Justice--Tour de Cesson, 71--Church of Notre
+Dame--Review of his army by James II. of England, 72.
+
+GUINGAMP--Situation--Fishing in the Trieux--Sanctuary of Notre Dame du Bon
+Secours--"Fr�rie blanche," 72--Fountain of Duke Peter--Women of
+Guingamp--Knitting and spinning--Ransom for Du Guesclin, 74--Chapel of St.
+Leonard patron saint of prisoners--Curious charms against fever, 75.
+
+PAIMPOL--Ch�teau de Boisgelin, 75--Abbey of Beauport, 76--Situation of
+Paimpol--Suspension-bridge of L�zardrieux, 80--Ch�teau of La Roche Jagu, 81.
+
+PONTRIEUX--Castle of La Roche Derrien, 82--"War of the two Jeannes"--Church
+of Langoat--Monument of Ste. Pomp�e, 83--Burial customs--Excellence of roads
+in Brittany, 84.
+
+KERMARTIN--St. Ives, 84--Inscription at his birthplace--Interior of a Breton
+dwelling, 86--Church of Minihy-Tr�guier--Will of St. Ives, 87.
+
+TR�GUIER--Cathedral--Burial-place of St. Ives, 88--Constable Clisson,
+89--Cemetery, 90--Skull-boxes, 91.
+
+LANNION--Difficulty of the road, 91--Perros Guirec--Ploumanach--Roche Pendue,
+92--Situation of Lannion--Fishery--Sea-weed gathering, 94--Castle of
+Touqu�dec, 95--Ch�teau of Kergrist, 96.
+
+MORLAIX--Situation--Timbered houses, 97--History, 98--Breton characteristics,
+99--Protestant Missions, 100--"Fontaine des Anglais," 102--River Scenery,
+103.
+
+ST. POL DE L�ON, 103--Religious Monuments--Character of the L�onnais,
+104--Church of Notre Dame de Creizker--Legend of St. G�n�vroc,
+105--Cathedral, 106--St. Pol and the Dragon, 109--Ursuline Convent--"Droit de
+Motte," 110.
+
+ROSCOFF--Contraband trade with England--Vegetable produce, 111--Historic
+importance, 112--Church--Island of Batz--Enormous old fig-tree, 113.
+
+ST. TH�GONNEC STATION--Cabaret--Church, 114--Guimiliau Church--Sculptures,
+115--Calvary, 116--Buckwheat, 117--Castle and Church of La Roche Maurice,
+118.
+
+BREST--Situation, 118--Harbour, 119--Church of the Folgo�t--Legend,
+120--Kersanton stone, 122--Sculptures in Kersanton stone, 123--The Fool's
+Well, 124--Exterior of Church, 125--Churchyard, 127--Monthly Fair of
+Brest--Peasants' Costumes, 133.
+
+FINIST�RE--Abbey of St. Mathieu, 129--Sea-fights, 130--Pont Launay and
+Ch�teaulin, 134.
+
+QUIMPER, 135--Legend of St. Corentin, 137--Cathedral, 139--National costume,
+140.
+
+CONCARNEAU, 142--Sardine Fishery, 143--Aquarium, 147--Dolmen and
+Rocking-stone of Tr�gunc--Ch�teau of Rust�phan, 149--Valley of Pontaven,
+150.
+
+QUIMPERL�--Fishing, 151--Buildings--Tomb of St. Gurlo�s, 152--Tomb of John de
+Montfort--Ruins of St. Columban, 153--Dirtiness of the Bretons--Animals and
+Farm produce--Butter Indulgence, 154.
+
+LORIENT--Bisson and the Pirates, 155.
+
+HENNEBONT--Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, 156--Church of Notre
+Dame-de-Paradis, 157.
+
+STE. ANNE D'AURAY, 158--Scala Sancta--F�te, 159--Chartreuse, 160--Battle,
+161--Deaf and Dumb School, 164--Massacre of Quiberon, 165--Champ des Martyrs,
+168--Celtic Remains, 169.
+
+LOCMARIAKER--Tumulus--Celtic and other Remains, 170--Tumulus of Gavr' Inis,
+175.
+
+CARNAC--Celtic Remains--Menhirs of Kermario, 177--Legend of St. Corn�ly,
+178--Jade Celts, &c., at Plouharnel, 180--Dolmen of Concorro, 181.
+
+VANNES--History--Promenade, 183--Cathedral, 184--Ch�teau Gaillau--Tour du
+Conn�table, 185--Model Village of Korner-ho�t, 187--Peninsula of Rhuys,
+188--Fortress of Sucinio, 189--Abbey of St. Gildas, 192--Abelard and the
+Breton Monks, 193--The Breton "Blue Beard," 194--Butte d'Arzon--Castle of
+Elven, 199--Growth of Chestnuts, 203.
+
+PLO�RMEL, 203--Church, 204--Tombs, 205--Column of the Thirty, 206--Battle of
+the Thirty, 207--Ch�teau of Josselin, 209--Church of Josselin, 213.
+
+MONTFORT-SUR-MER--Forest of Paimpont--Fairy tales, 215.
+
+RENNES, ancient capital of Brittany--Entry of Henry IV.--Scenery of the
+Loire, 216--Castle of Champtoceaux, 218.
+
+NANTES--Cathedral, 221--Tombs, 222--Castle--Anne of Brittany, 223--Promenades
+and Boulevards--Museum, 227--Jardin des Plantes--Descent of the Loire--The
+Noyades, 228.
+
+ST. NAZAIRE--Historical associations, 230--Le Croisic, 232--Salt-pans,
+233--Costume of the Paludiers, 234--Saulniers--Chouan: origin of the name and
+of the War, 241--Church of Batz, 243--Situation of Le Croisic, 244--Chapel of
+St. Goustan, 245.
+
+GU�RANDE--Church of St Aubin--Chapel of Notre Dame Blanche, 246--La Roche
+Bernard, 247--Wedding Festivities, 248--National Music--Female Costume--F�te
+de la Vierge and of the Emperor, 249--Scenery of the River Loch, 250.
+
+BELLE ISLE--Le Palais--M. Trochu's Model Farm, 251--Breton fatalism,
+252--Grotte du Port Coton, 255--Historical associations of Belle Isle,
+256--Fishery, 257.
+
+PONT L'ABB�, 257--Costumes, 258--Church, 259.
+
+LOCTUDY--Romanesque Church, 261.
+
+TORCHE DE PENMARCH, 262--Church of St. Guenol�, 263--"Le filet saint"--Ruins
+of the old Town, 264--Fontenelle the Leaguer, 267--Church of St. Nonna,
+268--Menhirs at Kerscaven, 269.
+
+AUDIERNE--Lighthouse--Bathing-machines, 269--Town, 270.
+
+POINTE DU RAZ--Popular superstitions--Church of St. Coll�doc, 271--"Enfer de
+Plogoff"--Island of Sein--Druidesses, 272--Dangerous passage, 273--Baie des
+Tr�pass�s--Submerged city of Is, 274--Legend of King Gradlon and his
+daughter Dahut, 275.
+
+DOUARNENEZ--Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, 276--Chapel of Notre Dame de
+Comfort--Wheel of Sacring-Bells--Town of Douarnenez, 279--Pardon of Ste.
+Anne-de-la-Palue, 280--Costume, 281--Church of Ste. Anne--Procession,
+282--Holy Well of Ste. Anne, 285.
+
+SCA�R--Old Customs and Superstitions, 285--Wrestling--"Pierres de Croix,"
+286.
+
+LE FAOU�T--Chapel of St. Barbe, 287--Wedding ceremonies and amusements,
+288--Fishing, 289--Old Breton superstitious still prevalent--Lavandi�res de
+la Nuit, 290--Church of St. Fiacre--Elaborately carved Rood-screen,
+293--Painted glass--Ruined Castle of Poncallec--Plot of Cellamare,
+294--Montagnes Noires, 296.
+
+CARHAIX--Situation, 297--Statue of La Tour d'Auvergne, 298--Fair and
+Market--Church of St. Tremeur--Skull-boxes, 299.
+
+HUELGOAT, 300--Lead-mines, 301--Cascade of St. Herbot--Chapel of St. Herbot,
+303--His tomb, 304--Patron of cattle--Offerings of horsehair and cows' tails,
+304--Homeward journey, 307.
+
+USEFUL DATES in the History of Brittany           309
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE of the Dukes of Brittany      310
+
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+  VIGNETTE--St. Michael's Mount, Title-page.
+  1. Querqueville Church, 6
+  2. Plan of Querqueville Church, 6
+  3. Ch�teau of Tourlaville, 9
+  4. Castle of Bricquebec, 13
+  5. Badge of the Soeurs de la Mis�ricorde, 17
+  6. Coutances Cathedral, 20
+  7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, 31
+  8. Front of the Tomb, 32
+  9. Menhir, near Dol, 35
+  10. Ch�teau of Combourg, 37
+  11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, 38
+  12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand's Tomb, 40
+  13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, 52
+  14. Ch�teau of La Belli�re, 54
+  15. Chimney, Ch�teau of La Belli�re, 56
+  16. Ch�teau of La Garaye, 60
+  17. Section of Lanleff Church, 69
+  18. Plan of Lanleff Church, 70
+  19. Fountain of Duke Peter, 73
+  20. Abbey of Beauport, 77
+  21. Skull-box, 91
+  22. The Creizker, 107
+  23. Calvary, Guimiliau, 116
+  24. The Fool's Well, Folgo�t, 124
+  25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, 131
+  26. Peasant Girl of Ou�ssant, 133
+  27. Peasant Girl, Ch�teaulin, 135
+  28. Begger, Quimper, 141
+  29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, 143
+  30. Dolmen, Tr�gunc, 146
+  31. Rocking-Stone, Tr�gunc, 148
+  32. Ch�teau of Rust�phan, 150
+  33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d'Auray, 159
+  34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, 169
+  35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, 171
+  36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, 173
+  37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr' Inis, 175
+  38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr' Inis, 176
+  40. Dolmen of Corcorro, 182
+  41. Castle of Elven, 200
+  42. Column of the Thirty, 206
+  43. Ch�teau of Josselin, 212
+  44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, 235
+  45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, 237
+  46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, 239
+  47. La Roche Bernard, 247
+  48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, 253
+  49. Device of Fouquet, 257
+  50. Peasant Girl, Pont l'Abb�, 258
+  51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, 260
+  52. Torche of Penmarch, 262
+  53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenol�, Penmarch, 264
+  54. Church of Guenol�, Penmarch, 265
+  55. Fleur-de-lis� Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, 269
+  56. Pointe du Raz, 270
+  57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, 277
+  58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, 279
+  59. Costume of a Finist�re Bride, 281
+  60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, 284
+  61. Cross Stones, 286
+  62. Rood-screen or Jub�, St. Fiacre, 291
+  63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 304
+  64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 305
+
+
+
+
+
+BRITANNY AND ITS BYWAYS.
+
+
+A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole to Cherbourg. It was dusk
+when we entered the harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing its
+beauty until the following morning, when we ascended a height behind the
+town, called the Mont du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by
+carriage, the Emperor having ordered a road to be made up to the fort
+which crowns the heights, on the occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in
+1858, of her Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were immediately set to
+work, and, in a few days, an easy carriage-road was finished, up which the
+Emperor drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace. The view from the fort is
+lovely, commanding the whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin,
+from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to Barfleur. The water of the
+harbour, owing to its great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we
+quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in likening to that of the Bay
+of Naples. Across its entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of
+the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet of our yacht squadron,
+which the day before had run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We took a
+boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded at each end by a fort, with
+another in the centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy weather
+the sea washes over the breakwater, and sometimes for days prevents all
+communication between the forts, and the supplies consequently are
+stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells of the Venus' ear,
+which inhabits the rocks of the breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the
+fish-market exposed for sale, and, on expressing some curiosity as to how
+they were eaten, the landlord had a dish prepared for us. These fish
+resemble the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require a great
+deal of beating with a wooden mallet to make them tender enough to eat.
+They are called "ormer," or "gofish." The table d'h�te was very
+plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout Normandy and
+Brittany, cider, the customary beverage of the country, was always placed
+upon the table. It varies very much in quality in different districts;
+that of Bayeux is most esteemed.
+
+The next morning we set out for the dockyard. To obtain admission, it
+first requires a letter from the English Consul, who lives in a charming
+spot overlooking the sea, at the foot of the Montagne du Roule. Furnished
+with this, we repaired to the Pr�fet Maritime, who gave us an order to be
+presented at the dockyard gate, where it was countersigned, and a guide
+appointed to show us over the establishment. We made the tour round all
+the basins and workshops, and saw the canot imp�rial used by the Emperor
+on the visit of our Queen,--a most elegant boat, beautifully carved with
+marine subjects. The model of a Roman trireme, or galley, is in one of the
+basins, and in the little museum, or Salle des Mod�les, are the two
+flagstones that covered the grave of Napoleon, and were deposited here by
+the Prince de Joinville, when he returned with the Emperor's remains from
+St. Helena. The dockyard partly stands on a spot called Chantereyne. The
+Empress Matilda, fleeing from Stephen, was overtaken by a tempest when
+making for Cherbourg, and vowed, if her life were spared, to build a
+church. The ship was in jeopardy, but the pilot cheered her spirits, and,
+when gaining the port, exclaimed, "Chantes Reine! we are safe in harbour."
+The place where she landed has always retained the name; and here the
+Empress, in fulfilment of her vow, founded an abbey, which was destroyed
+in the Revolution. The habitations of the nuns is the present provisional
+H�pital de la Marine; a new one, containing above a thousand beds, being
+in course of construction, and a modern church, called Eglise du Voeu, has
+been erected in another part of the town in place of that of the Empress
+Matilda.
+
+Henry II. held his court in the castle with his empress-mother in great
+splendour; it had formerly been tenanted by Duke William of Normandy
+before his invasion of England, and, within its enclosure, he built a
+church also, in consequence of a vow made during a serious illness. There
+are few objects of interest in the town of Cherbourg. The women all wear
+the large Normandy cap. In the Place d'Armes is a bronze equestrian statue
+of the Emperor Napoleon I., and on the pedestal is inscribed "J'avois
+r�solu de renouveler � Cherbourg les merveilles de l'Egypte."  In the
+Library is a curiously sculptured chimney-piece of the fifteenth century,
+coloured and gilt, removed from a room of the abbey. The principal church,
+La Trinit�, is a strange jumble of architecture. There is some beautiful
+tracery in the windows, and a fine boss (clef pendante) in the south
+porch, now restored. On a board in the church is an inscription, setting
+forth it was built in consequence of a "voeu solennel des habitans de
+Cherbourg en 1450 de la d�livrance de la domination �trang�re"--that is,
+from the English, whose defeat the same year at Formigny, by the Constable
+de Richemont, expelled them for ever from Normandy.
+
+There is much to see in the environs of Cherbourg, which makes it a good
+central point for excursions. We drove by the fort of Octeville, where a
+magnificent panoramic view is obtained, equalling in extent that from the
+Mont du Roule. A fisherman, who was standing by, told us the names of the
+numerous forts that bristle in every direction, and related to us the
+legend of the monk of Saire, who, having received the rent due to his
+father for some land, appropriated the money to his own use, and, on the
+tenant declaring he had paid the sum, adjured the evil one to carry him
+off, if he had ever received the money. The words were no sooner uttered
+than there came a flash of lightning, and the monk vanished: but he still
+appears in the roads of Cherbourg floating on the sea; when he sees a
+sailor, he cries "Save me, save me! I am about to sink!" but the hapless
+being who approaches to assist him is immediately dragged into the water,
+a peal of infernal laughter is heard, and the luckless mariner disappears
+for ever. We asked our guide if he believed in the phantom monk, but he
+was silent.
+
+[Illustration: 1. Querqueville Church.]
+
+From Octeville we proceeded to Querqueville, where, in the same churchyard
+as the parochial church, stands a little church, named after St. Germain,
+the first apostle of the Cotentin, who, in the fifth century, landed from
+England on the coast of La Hogue, and preached Christianity in this
+district and the valley traversed by the river Saire, which falls into the
+sea near St. Vaast-la-Hogue. This tiny church, for it measures only 34
+feet by 24, and is 11 feet high, is by some supposed to have been a temple
+of the Gauls converted into a Christian place of worship; the nave and
+tower having been added to the old temple, which consists of a triple apse
+forming a regular trefoil, each of which has a domed top. We drove on to
+Nacqueville, the ch�teau of Comte Hippolyte de Tocqueville. The park is
+prettily laid out, a stream of water runs in front of the house, and a row
+of blue hydrangeas blazed forth in great beauty, with the relief of a
+background of dark firs. Time prevented us from pursuing our excursion
+further west, to see the famed cliffs of Jobourg.
+
+[Illustration: 2. Plan of Querqueville Church.]
+
+To the east of Cherbourg a high road leads to Barfleur and the lighthouse
+of Gatteville, between which and the Isle of Wight is the narrowest point
+of the English Channel, passing by Saint-Pierre-Eglise, near which is the
+ch�teau of the late Alexis de Tocqueville, author of 'Democracy in
+America;' but we did not get further on the road than Tourlaville, the
+ancient ch�teau of the Ravalet family, upon whom tradition has heaped
+every crime imaginable. One seigneur entered the church with his hounds
+and stabbed the priest at the altar, because he refused to administer to
+him the consecrated element; another hanged some of his vassals, because
+they did not grind their corn at the seignorial mill, for "haute or basse
+justice" was then among the nobles' rights. Marguerite, a daughter of this
+ancient house, expiated, with her brother, their offences upon the
+scaffold at Paris. Every effort was made to spare their lives; but the
+King, or rather Queen Margot, was inexorable. The ch�teau of Tourlaville
+is beautifully situated; it is in the style of the Renaissance, with an
+angular tower, which recalls that of Heidelberg Castle. The ground-floor
+consists of two large unfurnished rooms, and a staircase, with iron
+railing, leads to the story above. In one room hangs the portrait of a
+lady ch�teleine, in the costume of the period of Louis XIII., with the
+ch�teau of Tourlaville in the distance. On her left are eight Cupids with
+bandages over their eyes, one in advance of the others is not blinded.
+From the lady's mouth is a label, with the inscription "Un (seul) me
+suffit." This is said to be the portrait of the Lady Marguerite, but the
+costume is of a later date. In one of the rooms is a chimney-piece covered
+with a variety of amatory devices and mottoes:--a Cupid blinded, holding a
+lighted torch, motto "Ce qui me donne la vie me cause la mort." Again,
+another Cupid with eyes bandaged, pouring water out of a vase to cool a
+flaming heart he holds in his hand, motto "Sa froideur me glace les veines
+et son ardeur br�le mon coeur." Six winged hearts flying at the approach of
+Cupid, but which are reached by his darts, "M�me en fuyant l'on est pris."
+Further is a sentiment in verse:--
+
+
+    "Plusieurs sont atteints de ce feu,
+    Mais il ne s'en gu�rit que fort peu."
+
+
+Again,--
+
+
+    "Ces deux n'en font qu'un."
+
+
+[Illustration: 3. Ch�teau of Tourlaville.]
+
+A river in the foreground, in the distance a setting sun, motto "Ainsi
+puissai-je mourir." This assemblage of devices and mottoes is not
+applicable to any particular individual, but may be supposed to be merely
+an expression of the taste of the time. They are of the seventeenth
+century, when the Ravalet had been succeeded by the Franquetot family, who
+have since taken the name of Coigny. Their arms, with several others, are
+in the little boudoir in one of the towers, called the Blue Chamber. Its
+walls are distempered blue, and the coverlet and hangings of the bed, with
+all the decorations of the room, are of the same colour. Having admired
+the lovely view from the "Tour des quatre vents," we descended to the
+kitchen of the farmer who rents the house, which now belongs to the
+Tocqueville family. His wife was busily employed in making "cr�pes," a
+favourite kind of cake in Normandy and Brittany. It is made generally of
+the flour of the sarrasin or buckwheat, mixed with milk or water, and
+spread into a kind of pancake, which is fried on an iron pan, resembling
+the Scotch griddle-cakes. Another variety, called "galette," is made of
+the same ingredients, but differs from the cr�pe in its being made three
+or four times the thickness, and is therefore not so light. Though
+generally made of buckwheat, wheat or oat-flour is sometimes used; and in
+the towns, sugar and cinnamon and vanilla are added, and the simple
+character of the cr�pe entirely changed under the hands of the
+confectioner. The little village of Tourlaville was famous for its
+glassworks, until supplanted by those of Gobain.
+
+On our return to Cherbourg we visited the lace school of the Soeurs de la
+Providence, where about two hundred girls are employed in making black
+lace like that of Bayeux, which has now completely superseded the
+Chantilly; the manner of making both laces is similar. The old Chantilly
+has completely died out, and the modern manufacture extends the whole
+length of Normandy from Cherbourg to Bayeux. How the children can keep the
+bobbins from entangling is a marvel; there were as many as five hundred on
+one pillow. The lace-makers were chiefly employed in flounces, shawls, and
+other large works. These are all made in separate pieces, and united by
+the stitch called fine joining or "raboutissage." A half-shawl or "pointe"
+was divided into thirty segments. We passed the evening at the
+Etablissement, and next morning left Cherbourg.
+
+The railway traverses the picturesque and rocky valley of Quincampoix to
+Martinvast, whose little Romanesque church stands close to the station,
+and at a short distance is the ch�teau of Martinvast, where its late
+proprietor, M. du Moncel, established a model farm. A monument has been
+erected to his memory in the church by the commune of Martinvast.
+
+[Illustration: 4. Castle of Bricquebec.]
+
+At Sottevast we took the omnibus for Bricquebec, which lies nearly five
+miles from the station. Its ruined castle, dating from the end of the
+fourteenth century, with its lofty octagonal donjon, nearly a hundred feet
+high, standing on a high "motte" or artificial mound, has a most imposing
+appearance. Bricquebec, the most considerable demesne of the Cotentins,
+was taken by King Henry V. from the Sire d'Estouteville, who had so
+gallantly defended Mont St. Michel against him. Henry gave Bricquebec to
+William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, the ill-fated favourite of Queen
+Margaret of Anjou, and he, on being taken prisoner by the French, sold it,
+to raise the money for his ransom, to Sir Bertie Entwistle, who fought at
+Agincourt, and who held it till the battle of Formigny expelled the
+English from Normandy, and Sir Bertie fell at St. Albans in the
+Lancastrian cause. The inn, "H�tel du Vieux Ch�teau," is within the
+enclosure of the ruins--a most dilapidated old place; our dirty
+ill-furnished room next to a hayloft, the horses passing through the house
+to the stable, and every kind of litter and rubbish accumulated under the
+windows. Yet in the room we occupied had once slept our gracious Sovereign
+Queen Victoria. On a placard is inscribed, "Chambre de la famille royale
+d'Angleterre, 18 Ao�t 1857;" and below stairs is another, setting forth,
+"S. M. la Reine d'Angleterre, le Prince Albert, les Princesses Royale et
+Alice, le Prince Alfred, sont descendus � l'h�tel du Vieux Ch�teau le 10
+Ao�t 1857." About a mile from Bricquebec is a Trappist convent; but we
+were not allowed admission beyond the parlour, where is sold a quantity of
+cutlery, not made--as we were given to understand when offered for sale--by
+the monks.
+
+Regaining the railroad, we went on to Valognes, which has been styled the
+St. Germain of Normandy; a dull town, with worn-out houses, occupied by
+worn-out aristocratic families. The grass grows in the streets.
+
+Here we left the rail and proceeded to Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte. On
+entering the town, the castle is on the right of the road, the Abbey
+church on the left. The large demesne of Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte passed
+by marriage into the Harcourt family, and belonged, in the time of Edward
+III., to Geoffrey d'Harcourt, whose fortress was one of the most
+formidable in Normandy. Banished from France, he went over to England and
+persuaded Edward III. to make a descent upon Normandy instead of Gascony,
+assuring him he would find rich towns and fair castles without any means
+of defence, and that his people would gain wealth enough to suffice them
+for twenty years to come. The King landed at La Hogue, or Saint
+Vaast-la-Hogue, as it is now called, where he knighted the Prince of Wales
+and made Warwick and Harcourt marshals of his army. They advanced in three
+divisions--the King and the Prince in the centre, the two marshals on the
+right and left--ravaging all before them, and not stopping in their
+victorious course till the great victory at Crecy. Harcourt subsequently
+met a traitor's fate. A force was sent against him, his army was routed,
+and, preferring death to being taken, he fought most valiantly until he
+was struck to the ground by French lances, when some men-at-arms
+dispatched him with their swords. He had sold the reversion of his castle
+to King Edward III., to whom it was confirmed by the treaty of Bretigny.
+Edward bestowed the barony upon that pride of English chivalry, Sir John
+Chandos, in recompense for his great services in the wars. The square
+donjon and inner gate were built by Chandos. The castle is well preserved,
+and is now used as a hospice for orphans and aged women. The rooms are
+kept beautifully clean, and on a tablet in one of the corridors is written
+up "Dortoirs restaur�s par la munificence de M. le Comte Georges
+d'Harcourt en m�moire de ses illustres ayeux, anciens Seigneurs de ce
+ch�teau, en 1838."
+
+The Benedictine convent also belonged to the Harcourts until the revolt of
+Geoffrey. It is now the property of the Soeurs de la Mis�ricorde, who have
+rebuilt the fine Abbey church according to its former model. Originally
+built in the eleventh century, it was partly burnt in the fourteenth, and
+reconstructed in the fifteenth. The columns and arches of the nave are of
+the first period; the form of the church is a Latin cross, having an apse
+ornamented with a double row of lancet windows, richly sculptured. The
+sculptures are all executed by an untaught workman of the place, who died
+before he had completed the pulpit. To collect the funds necessary for the
+undertaking, the foundress travelled throughout Europe. Her tomb is in the
+church. "Julie Fran�oise Catherine Postel, n�e � Barfleur, 1756. Soeur
+Marie Madelaine, Fondatrice et premi�re Superieure G�n�rale de l'Institut
+des Ecoles Chr�tiennes de la Mis�ricorde, morte en odeur de Saintet� 16
+Juillet 1846, � l'Abbaye de St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte." The badge of the
+sisterhood is a cross inscribed with their motto "L'ob�issance jusqu'� la
+mort." Some of the party made an attempt at fishing in the little river
+Douve, but without success, though rewarded for their walk by a pretty
+view of the apse of the Abbey church, with its delicately-sculptured
+lancet windows, from the opposite side of the river.
+
+[Illustration: 5. L'OB�ISSANCE JUSQU'� LA MORT.]
+
+We hired a private carriage (_voiture � volont�_) to P�riers. After
+passing over a hilly road we crossed a marsh which extends from Carentan
+to the sea, and reached a town called La Haye-du-Puits--a singular name
+derived from the custom in the middle ages of surrounding the "motte" or
+enclosure upon which the donjon was built, with a wooden palisade, or
+sometimes with a thick hedge formed of thorns and branches of trees
+interlaced: hence La Haye-du-Puits, La Haye-Pesnel, and others. Here is a
+Norman church restored: all the capitals of the columns are of the same
+pattern.
+
+The Abbey church at Lessay, where next we stopped, is of the twelfth
+century, and considered, with Coutances and P�riers, to be the finest
+examples of Romanesque in the Cotentin. The arches are round, and all the
+architecture of the church, which has been restored, is of the same
+period. The Abbey of Lessay had transmarine jurisdiction and the right of
+presentation to the Priory of Boxgrove and other endowments in the diocese
+of Chichester. The Abbey house, now inhabited, is a fine modernised
+habitation. At Lessay we saw the manner of washing linen practised in many
+places throughout Normandy and Brittany. Being first roughly washed in the
+river, the clothes are placed in layers in a large cask, with a bunghole
+at the bottom, alternately with wood-ashes, and on the top is laid a piece
+of coarse sacking. Boiling water is poured over the top, which, as it
+passes through the linen, absorbs the soda of the ashes, escaping at the
+bottom and carrying away with it all impurities. This process is repeated
+several times till the clothes are perfectly white.
+
+Throughout this part of the country the mistletoe hangs as the sign of a
+cabaret; and if cider is sold, some apples are fastened to the bush. On
+the road to P�riers we crossed a "lande" or common, where we met numerous
+carts carrying sea sand, here used to mix with the heavy soil as manure.
+
+At P�riers we slept at the little inn "La Croix Blanche," kept by Madame
+Casimir, the widow of a Polish officer, well known for her eccentricity
+and good cuisine. The entrance to the apartments in the inns is generally
+through the kitchen; in many the box bedstead (_lit clos_) stands in the
+corner near the fire, Breton fashion. On a barber's shop we saw painted up
+"I�i l'on rajeunit." The church has a tall spire, and is one of the finest
+religious edifices in this part of Normandy--painted windows, the capitals
+of the columns of varied foliage, and fine groined clustered arches.
+
+We had a most perilous drive to Coutances, the coachman, "en ribote,"
+drove us at a fearful pace, and we were thankful when we arrived in
+safety. The Norman cathedral is beautiful--so simple, so pure, and elegant;
+its tall towers terminating in spires; and the chapels being separated by
+open mullioned arches, great lightness is given to the interior. The
+Bishop of Coutances was officiating at the consecration of some stones for
+a new pavement; each flag was rubbed over and anointed with oil.
+
+[Illustration: 6. Coutances Cathedral.]
+
+The church of St. Pierre has a handsome square tower, pierced gallery, and
+apse with a double row of columns. In the church of St. Nicholas we
+particularly noticed the fine bosses of the groined arches in the chancel.
+The fonts hereabouts have the serpent with the apple, and the cross carved
+upon the cover. The church was filled with pots of flowers they were
+employed in removing, for the day before had been the F�te of St. Fiacre,
+the patron of gardeners. St. Fiacre, or Fiaker, was an Irish monk of the
+seventh century, who, according to tradition, obtained from the Bishop of
+Meaux a grant of as much ground out of the forest as he could dig a trench
+round in one day's labour, for the purpose of making a garden and
+cultivating vegetables for travellers. Long time after, the peasants would
+show the ditch ten times longer than was expected, and relate how, when
+the Irishman took his stick to trace a line upon the soil, the earth dug
+itself under the point of the stick, while the forest trees fell right and
+left to save him the trouble of cutting them down. Outside the town are
+the remains of an aqueduct, with ivy-covered arches, said to be the work
+of the middle ages. It is a good point of view for sketching the
+cathedral, and the public gardens also command a fine prospect.
+
+The approach to Granville is by a sharp descent. The town is built at the
+foot of a rocky promontory, the streets rising in terraces cut in the
+rock, on the top of which are the citadel and the church on the
+culminating point. It has been styled a Gibraltar in miniature. A fort was
+built here by Lord Scales, who commanded the English forces in the
+Cotentin in the time of Henry VI., and it was taken by surprise by
+Estouteville, the hero of Saint Michel. The church is cruciform in plan,
+the arms of the cross being equal. The axis of the nave is inclined to the
+left, as we afterwards observed that of the Creizker at St. Pol de L�on.
+It has been lately restored, and the painted windows are offerings of the
+different families of the town. The view from the top of the "Roc" is very
+extensive, including the Chausey islands and Jersey. A steamer runs twice
+a week to St. Helier. A deep cutting in the rocks opens on the beach,
+where the bathing-machines are stationed--curious little canvas huts
+carried upon poles, like sedan chairs. The tide here rises 45 feet. It was
+to Granville the Vendean army, commanded by La Rochejacquelin, appointed
+generalissimo at twenty-two, marched after their fatal step of crossing
+the Loire, expecting to make a junction with the English; but Granville
+was vigorously defended, contrary winds retarded the arrival of the
+English fleet, and the retreat from the coast, where it might have been
+supported by the English, was the ruin of the Royalist army. Of the 80,000
+who crossed the Loire sixty days before, only 8000 remained to make their
+last heroic resistance at Savenay, which ended the great Vendean war. A
+few months after, the hero of this noble army, the chivalrous Henri de la
+Rochejacquelin, fell from the bullet of a soldier whose life he had
+spared(1):--
+
+
+    "Lorsqu'en des jours trop malheureux
+    P�lissait l'astre de la France;
+    Quand les coeurs les plus valeureux
+    Semblaient perdre toute esp�rance,
+
+    L'antique honneur, la sainte foi,
+    Brill�rent dans cette contr�e;
+    Mourir pour son Dieu, pour son roi,
+    Fut le serment de la Vend�e."
+
+
+The costume of the Granville women is singular. They wear long black
+cloaks or mantles, edged with a frill of the same material, and on their
+heads a kind of bandeau or under-cap, turned up at the ears, surmounted by
+a white handkerchief, folded square and placed horizontally upon the head,
+like the plinth of a Grecian capital.
+
+We drove to St. Pair, a small watering-place about two miles from
+Granville, nicely situated in a little sandy bay. In the middle of the
+church is the monumental tomb of St. Pair and another saint (St. Gault);
+their effigies, with mitre and crozier, side by side.
+
+Next day we had a beautiful drive to Avranches. A winding road leads up to
+the town, which is situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a view of
+Brittany on one side and of Normandy on the other--a broad expanse of land
+and sea, the former extending over the valley of the S�e, with its network
+of small streams interlacing each other; Mont St. Michel appears in the
+distance. The finest view is from the Botanic gardens. The cathedral of
+Avranches fell at the end of the last century, but a model of it is
+preserved in the museum. One stone remains, carefully surrounded by
+massive chains, with an inscription recording that it was the spot where
+Henry II. received absolution for the murder of Thomas � Becket:--"Sur
+cette pierre, i�i � la porte de la cath�drale d'Avranches, apr�s le
+meurtre de Thomas Becket, Arch�v�que de Cantorb�ry, Henri II., roi
+d'Angleterre, duc de Normandie, re�ut � genoux, des l�gats du pape,
+l'absolution apostolique, le dimanche xxii Mai, 1172." The cemetery is at
+the foot of the hill; the tombs are of granite, with the letters in
+relief: among them we read many well-known English names.
+
+At Pontorson we could find no remains of the castle of Du Guesclin, which
+was nearly surprised by the English under a captain named Felton, during
+the absence of Du Guesclin, with the connivance of the "chambri�res" of
+the Lady Typhaine, his wife. Already their scaling-ladders were against
+the wall, when Juliana, Du Guesclin's sister, agitated by a troublous
+dream, awoke suddenly, seized a sword, rushed to the window, and upset
+three English who were coming up the ladder, and they were killed by the
+fall. The enemy retired. Next morning Du Guesclin, on his return to
+Pontorson, met Felton and his party, attacked them, and took them
+prisoners. When Typhaine saw Felton, she tauntingly exclaimed, "Comment,
+brave Felton, vous voil� encore! C'est trop pour un homme de coeur comme
+vous d'�tre battu, dans une intervalle de douze heures, une fois par la
+soeur, une autre par le fr�re." Du Guesclin caused the faithless
+"chambri�res" to be sewed up in sacks and flung into the river.
+
+John IV. Duke of Brittany conferred upon Du Guesclin the government of
+Pontorson, of which territory he was personally lord, by right of his
+mother. It was here he often resided, and here he celebrated being made
+Constable of France by King Charles V., and fraternised with Olivier de
+Clisson, agreeing to afford each other mutual help--"contre tous ceux qui
+peuvent vivre et mourir." The granite church was founded by Duke Robert,
+father of the Conqueror.
+
+Pontorson is the most convenient place for visiting Mont St. Michel. Our
+drive thither was by the banks of the river Cou�snon, along a sandy road,
+bordered on each side by hedges of tamarisks, which leads to the "Gr�ve,"
+or sands, which have to be crossed to reach the Mount, a distance of
+rather more than a mile. We met numbers of bare-legged half-clad women and
+children, bringing in the produce of their fishing, shrimps and cockles
+tied up in nets, and peasants with carts carrying in sea sand for dressing
+the land. The appearance of Mont St. Michel is very imposing, a cone of
+granite encircled by the sea. Above rises the fortress, surmounted by the
+church, a height of 400 feet from the top to the water. Below, at the foot
+of the Mount, picturesquely situated on an insulated rock, is the little
+chapel of St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, the founder of St. Michel. The
+Mount has been the residence of many of our English princes. Matilda,
+queen of the Conqueror, visited St. Michel.  It was here her son Henry I.,
+then only Count of the Cotentin, was blockaded by his brothers William and
+Robert, and obliged to surrender. Here Henry II. held his court, and, when
+Henry V. overran Normandy, St. Michel was the only fortress that held out
+against him, under its gallant defender Louis d'Estouteville of
+Bricquebec. Two cannons, now at the entrance of the castle, are said to
+have been taken from the English at the siege. Normandy was always the
+scene of the quarrels between the English Norman princes, of the disputes
+between the sons of the Conqueror, between Stephen of Blois and Henry of
+Anjou, and again of those between Henry II. and his sons, and of Richard
+and his brother John, to the latter of whom the Normans were attached.
+
+Seven French kings have made pilgrimages to St. Michel; and here Louis XI.
+instituted the order of knighthood, called in honour of the archangel St.
+Michael, but afterwards styled the order of the Coquille, from the
+cockleshells that formed the collar of the knights, and the golden
+cockle-shells that bordered their mantles. The motto of the order was the
+old motto of the Mount, "Immensi tremor Oceani" (the trembling of the
+immeasurable ocean), being an allusion to the popular belief that when the
+English approached St. Michel, the guardian archangel of the Mount raised
+a tempest to drive the enemy's vessels upon the rocks. This belief may be
+traced back to the time when the island was occupied by the Druid
+priestesses, who were supposed to have the power of raising storms and
+stilling them by their magic arrows of gold.
+
+We ascended by the flight of steps to the "Merveille," as the convent
+building is called, and well it deserves its name, from its elegance, its
+boldness, and its position, with a wall of above one hundred feet high,
+and of immense length, rising from the rock and supported by fifteen
+buttresses, and divided into three stories. In every point of view it is
+one of the most remarkable edifices of the thirteenth century. The salle
+des chevaliers, where the chapters of the knights were held, is a fine
+hall, with three rows of columns, and above it are the beautiful Gothic
+cloisters. The "pr�au" or court is surrounded by a double row of pointed
+arches, interlacing each other, and filled in with flowered spandrils and
+cornices, carved with the greatest delicacy and endless variety. The
+church which crowns the building is supported by a circle of enormous
+columns in the crypt beneath, called the Souterrain des Gros Piliers: it
+has been entirely restored, and the carvings are the work of the prisoners
+who were confined here. From one of the doors we went out to the platform
+or terrace called Beauregard, from the beauty of its prospect, or
+sometimes Sault Gautier, from a prisoner of that name, who three times
+threw himself off the platform to commit suicide. The view from hence is
+most extensive, the whole circuit of the bay extending to the west as far
+as Cancale. In 1203 St. Michel became a royal demesne, and the buildings
+were entirely reconstructed by the Abbot Jourdan, assisted by Philip
+Augustus; and the works were continued by his successors to 1260.
+
+Beneath and adjacent to the Mount, is the little island of La Tombeleine
+or tombeau d'-Hel�ne, so called from a young lady of that name, who unable
+to accompany her lover knight when he left for England with the Conqueror,
+as soon as the vessel which carried him away disappeared from her sight,
+laid down on the shore and died. Every year, on the anniversary of her
+death, the fishermen will tell you they see a dove seated upon the
+Tombeleine rock, and remain there till morning's dawn.
+
+The guide pointed out to us the window of St. Michel, from which Barb�s
+tried to escape by means of a cord made of his sheets cut into strips and
+tied together; but the line was too short, and he fell upon the rock and
+was taken up much hurt. The provisions for the fortress are brought in up
+an inclined plane, and raised by means of a tread-wheel, formerly worked
+by the prisoners. We were conducted to the spot where stood, with bars
+only three inches apart, the iron cage in which so many celebrities were
+immured. Dubourg, the Dutch journalist, who wrote against Louis XIV., died
+within its bars, devoured, it is said, by the rats. In 1777, the Comte
+d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.) desired it should be destroyed, but his
+wishes were disregarded. His cousin, the Duc de Chartres (afterwards Louis
+Philippe), with his brother and sister, and Madame de Genlis, subsequently
+visited the Mount. All exclaimed against the iron cage, and when they
+heard that the Comte d'Artois had ordered its destruction, they sent for
+hatchets, and the Duc de Chartres gave the first blow towards its
+demolition; but the fine old fortress is no longer desecrated as a prison.
+The Emperor has restored it to its original position, and it is now placed
+under the control of the Bishop of Coutances, and is used as an asylum for
+orphans under the care of a few Sisters.
+
+Next morning we crossed the boundary between Normandy and Brittany, the
+river Cou�snon, which has often changed its course, once, it is said,
+running beyond St. Michel--hence the popular saying--
+
+
+    "Le Cou�snon par sa folie
+    A mis le Mont en Normandie."
+
+
+We had a beautiful drive to Dol or Dol-de-Bretagne, as it is styled, to
+distinguish it from the fortress of the same name in the Jura, upon the
+taking of which Madame de Sevign� writes in her letters with so much
+enthusiasm. We were now fairly in Brittany, which though geographically
+part of France still remains very distinct, owing to the Celtic origin of
+its inhabitants. Brittany consists of five departments; but it is in Lower
+Brittany alone, comprised in the departments of Finist�re, Morbihan, and
+the C�tes-du-Nord, that the true Celtic race, its language, names,
+features, costumes, and superstitions are to be found.
+
+This is the true Brittany, the Bretagne Bretonnante of Froissart, who
+calls the eastern part of the province, La Bretagne Douce, because the
+French language is spoken there. Dol was the great bulwark of Brittany
+against Normandy; the wall and moat surrounding the town, with some of the
+towers, still remain. Many of the houses are built, as the French term it,
+"en colombage" that is, with the upper story projecting some fifteen feet
+over the ground-floor, forming a gallery or porch supported by oak posts
+or columns with sculptured capitals of the thirteenth century. The inn we
+occupied had one of these porches: Madame Barbot, our landlady, and her
+maid, were both dressed in Breton costume, with lace-trimmed embroidered
+caps and aprons of fine muslin, clear-starched and ironed with a
+perfection which the most accomplished "blanchisseuse du fin" of Paris
+would find it difficult to surpass. The people here have the Breton
+physiognomy, sharp black eyes, short roundi faces and brown freckled
+complexions, a contrast to the blue eyes, long oval faces, and bright
+tints of their Norman neighbours.
+
+[Illustration: 7. Pilaster and Cornice from the Tomb of Bishop James,
+Cathedral, Dol.]
+
+The principal building at Dol is the Cathedral, built of grey granite, in
+the style of many of our English churches. On the south is the "porte
+episcopale," a large projecting porch with mullioned sides, and, near it,
+a smaller porch with a central column sem�e of hearts, the "armes
+parlantes" of Bishop Coeuret who built it. The clustered columns of the
+nave, consist of a central pillar surrounded by four others running up to
+the roof, so slender and delicate that they are united to the centre by
+small bars of iron. Over the high altar is an enormous wooden crozier,
+carved and gilt, from which the Host is suspended. A beautiful Renaissance
+tomb on the north side of the cathedral was raised in 1507 to the memory
+of Bishop James, who died three years before. The sculpture is much
+mutilated, but the arabesques are most delicately and elegantly chiselled.
+It is supposed to be the work of Jean Just of Tours, sculptor of the
+magnificent tomb of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, erected at St. Denis
+by order of Francis I.
+
+[Illustration: 8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]
+
+The chapel of St. Samson, patron saint of the cathedral, has been
+restored. Mad people were brought here for cure, and placed in a recess
+which still remains; the opening was covered over by an iron grating. Dol
+was formerly the ecclesiastical metropolis of Brittany; the see was
+founded by Samson, one of those British monks, who, with a whole
+population of men and women, emigrated from England to escape the Saxon
+slavery. They crossed the Channel in barks made of skins sewn together,
+singing, as they went, the Lamentations of the Psalmist. This emigration
+lasted more than a century (from 450 to 550), and poured a Christian
+population into a Celtic country where paganism was longest preserved. St.
+Samson and his six suffragans--all monks, missionaries, and bishops, like
+himself--were called the "Seven Saints of Brittany;" St. Samson was what
+was termed an "ev�que portatif," meaning a bishop without a diocese, until
+he founded that of Dol. Telio, also a British monk, with the assistance of
+St. Samson, planted near Dol an orchard three miles in length, and to him
+is attributed the first introduction of the apple-tree into Brittany.
+Wherever the monks went, they cultivated the soil; all had in their mouths
+the words of the Apostle, "If any would not work, neither should he eat."
+The people admired the industry of the new comers, and, from admiration
+they passed to imitation; the peasants joined the monks in tilling the
+ground, and even the brigands became agriculturists. "The Cross and the
+plough, labour and prayer," was the motto of these early missionaries.
+
+
+    "S�r que le Ciel maudit l'arbre st�rile,
+    Le sage passe en op�rant le bien:
+    Vivre et mourir � l'univers utile,
+    C'est la devise et l'esprit du chr�tien."
+                    _Chants de Pi�t�_, MALO DE GARABY.
+
+
+The monks of Dol were great bee-farmers, as we learn from an anecdote told
+by Count Montalembert in his 'Moines de l'Occident.' One day when St.
+Samson of Dol and St. Germain, Bishop of Paris, were conversing on the
+respective merits of their monasteries, St. Samson said that his monks
+were such good and careful preservers of their bees that, besides the
+honey which they yielded in abundance, they furnished more wax than was
+used in the churches during the year, but that, their climate not being
+fit for the growth of vines, they had great scarcity of wine. Upon hearing
+this, St. Germain replied, "We, on the contrary, produce more wine than we
+can consume, but we have to buy wax; so, if you will furnish us with wax,
+we will give you a tenth of our wine." Samson accepted the offer, and the
+mutual arrangement was continued during the lives of the two saints.
+
+The marshy country round Dol has been formerly inundated by the sea; it is
+now reclaimed and protected by a dyke twenty-two miles long, extending
+from Pontorson to Chateauneuf. The whole tract is full of buried wood, a
+submerged forest, which the people dig up, and use for furniture. It is
+black, like the Irish bog-oak. They call it "cou�ron." In the midst of
+this plain rises a mamelon or insulated granite rock, resembling in form
+Mont St. Michel, called the Mont Dol. On the top is the little chapel of
+Notre Dame de l'Esp�rance, upon which was formerly a telegraph, and near
+it is a column surmounted by a colossal statue of Our Lady. Mont Dol was a
+consecrated place of the Druids. The guides showed us a spring which never
+dries, and also a rock upon which they point out the print of the foot of
+the demon, left by him when wrestling with St. Michael. We met the cur�,
+who gave us a medal of the church, and told us the principal points in the
+view before us, extending over the whole Bay of Cancale.
+
+[Illustration: 9. Menhir, near Dol.]
+
+On our way back to Dol, we walked to a cornfield, in the midst of it
+stands a menhir(2) (they are so termed from the Breton _moen_, stone, and
+_hir_, long), called the "Pierre du champ dolant," a shaft of gray
+granite, about thirty feet high, and said to measure fifteen more
+underground. On the top is a cross. The first preachers of Christianity,
+unable to uproot the veneration for the menhirs, surmounted them with the
+cross, preserving the worship but changing the symbol. In the same manner,
+they did not attempt to destroy the veneration for sacred groves and
+fountains, but transferred to new saints the miracles of times past.
+
+We drove through a pretty country to see the Ch�teau of Combourg, where
+Chateaubriand passed his early days. It is a fine square castle of the
+fifteenth century, with massive towers at each corner, surrounded by
+trees, and standing proudly over the village below. The drawbridge has
+been replaced by a modern "perron" or flight of stone steps, which leads
+to the entrance hall. The salle d'honneur looks over a lake. We were taken
+into his little melancholy room which Chateaubriand so well describes.
+
+[Illustration: 10. Ch�teau of Combourg.]
+
+  "La fen�tre de mon donjon s'ouvrait sur le cour int�rieure; le jour,
+  j'avais en perspective les cr�neaux de la courtine oppose�, o�
+  v�g�taient des scolopendres et croissait un prunier sauvage. Quelques
+  martinets, qui, durant l'�t�, s'enfon�aient en criant dans les trous des
+  murs, �taient mes seuls compagnons. La nuit je n'apercevais qu'un petit
+  morceau du ciel et quelques �toiles. Lorsque la lune brillait et qu'elle
+  s'abaissait � l'occident, j'en �tais averti par ses rayons, qui venaient
+  � mon lit au travers des carreaux losang�s de la fen�tre. Des chouettes
+  voletant d'un tour � l'autre, passant et repassant entre la lune et moi,
+  dessinaient sur mes rideaux l'ombre mobile de leurs ailes."
+
+The bed on which Chateaubriand died has been brought from Paris and placed
+in the room.
+
+[Illustration: 11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.]
+
+The next morning we left Dol for Cancale, of such world-wide celebrity for
+its oysters. We left the railway at La Gouesni�re, five miles and a half
+from Cancale, to which we proceeded by the mail cart. It requires to
+travel in Brittany to form any notion of the detestable vehicles, whether
+public or "voitures � volont�," in which travellers in this country are
+condemned to ride. Uncleaned, unpainted, creaking, jolting machines--as
+fully tenanted with every kind of insect annoyance, as if one were
+travelling in a hen-house. The horses are good, hardy, enduring little
+animals, which go their thirty to fifty miles a day without any distress
+either to themselves or the traveller. The Breton drivers are gentle and
+kind, making more use of their voices than of their whips in urging on
+their horses. The town of Cancale is situated on the heights, a
+precipitous descent leading to the village below, called La Houle, which
+lines the edge of the shore, and is occupied mostly by fishermen. This is
+the port, and here are the pier and the lighthouse, and also a comfortable
+inn to which the people of St. Malo resort in large parties, an omnibus
+running thence daily. The panoramic view of the bay of Cancale is
+beautiful and most extensive, one vast crescent of sand some ten square
+leagues in extent, stretching from the picturesque rocks of Cancale to
+Granville, its most northern point, and including Mont Dol, Mont St.
+Michel, and Avranches.  The western side is lined with huts and windmills,
+but the water is so shallow that no boat can land. Having walked round the
+little hurdled-in oyster parks, numbering, we were told, about 600, and
+made ourselves very wet and dirty, though we borrowed sabots to enable us
+to wade through the mud, we returned to the inn, and next day reached St.
+Malo.
+
+[Illustration: 12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.]
+
+St. Malo stands on a small granite island at the mouth of the Rance,
+connected, by a causeway called "Le Sillon," with the mainland. The space
+it occupies is so small, that castle, churches, streets, and towers are
+all crowded together, and the whole is nearly surrounded by a sea wall,
+which makes the town appear as if rising straight out of the ocean.
+Towards the sea, the bay is encircled with groups of craggy islets, many
+surmounted by forts, bristling up as the tide recedes, in every direction.
+Conspicuous among these island rocks is that called the Grand B�, chosen
+by Chateaubriand for his last resting-place, as he wished to be buried
+near the place of his birth. Singularly enough the name of the island "B�"
+signifies a tomb. On his request being granted, Chateaubriand wrote to the
+Mayor of St. Malo.
+
+  "Enfin, Monsieur, j'aurai un tombeau, et je vous le devrai, ainsi qu'�
+  mes bienveillants compatriotes. Vous savez, Monsieur, que je ne veux que
+  quelques pieds de sable, une pierre de rivage sans ornement et sans
+  inscription, une simple croix de fer, et une petite grille pour emp�cher
+  les animaux de me deterrer. La croix dira que l'homme r�posant � ses
+  pieds �tait un Chr�tien; cela suffit � ma m�moire."
+
+At low water, the island is accessible on foot. The tomb consists of a
+plain stone without inscription, surmounted by a granite cross, and is
+surrounded by an iron railing. It is placed on the edge of a rock, and is
+the resort of crowds of pilgrims.
+
+
+  "La vaste mer murmure autour de son cercueil."
+
+
+The H�tel de France is the house where Chateaubriand's family lived, and
+the room he occupied is filled with various memorials of him. The
+Chateaubriand arms hang upon the wall. They were given by St. Louis to an
+ancestor who was wounded and taken prisoner at the battle of Massoura. The
+King changed the peacock's plumes, previously borne by the family, to
+fleurs de lys on a field gules, with the proud motto "Mon sang teint les
+banni�res de France." The tides here rise to between forty and fifty feet
+above low-water mark, so that the harbour is dry at low water, and is
+crossed on foot to go to St. Servan, the suburb on the opposite side.
+
+We walked round the ramparts and were shown the little gate down which
+were sent every night the watch dogs of St. Malo, "chiens Anglais qui
+s'appelent dogues." Shut up during the day, they were let out at ten at
+night, and recalled in the morning to the sound of a copper trumpet, by
+their keeper, styled the "chiennetier." Enactments were made for their
+maintenance, called the "droit de chiennage." When let loose at night, a
+warning bell was rung to apprise the inhabitants, as they tore the legs of
+every one they met. Hence it used to be said "Il a �t� � St. Malo, les
+chiens lui ont rong� les mollets." In 1770, a naval officer trying to
+force a passage was attacked by a troop of these dogs prowling between St.
+Malo and St. Servan; his sword was useless as defence, and, exhausted, in
+despair he threw himself into the sea, but here he was followed by the
+dogs and torn to pieces. A few days after they were all destroyed by the
+municipality, and the custom of keeping them has been since discontinued.
+In an old map of St. Malo, or "Saint Malo de l'isle," as it was then
+styled, preserved in the Imperial Library at Paris, is laid down, near the
+"Sillon" a little sentry-box marked, "Corps-de-garde de nuit pour les
+chiens," and again, near the "Tour de la grande Porte," is the "Pont aux
+chiens." The date of the map is 1662. The arms of St. Malo till the
+seventeenth century were, on a field argent, a mastiff gules.
+
+The castle dates principally from the Queen-Duchess Anne, and one of its
+massive towers, the "Qui qu'en grogne" is a memorial of her dauntless
+spirit. Twice crowned Queen of France, she was the only one of her line
+worthy of the ducal crown. The Bishop of St. Malo was temporal lord of the
+town, and maintained he held it direct from the Pope, as a fief of the
+Church, because it was built upon land where a convent formerly stood; and
+consequently the Duke of Brittany had no authority over it, either
+spiritual or temporal. Duke John V. began to build a castle, but the
+Bishop opposed himself to its construction, and the contest lasted on
+until the time of the Queen-Duchess Anne, who, in defiance of the Bishop,
+and to shew that she was and always would be sovereign of St. Malo,
+finished the fortress and caused the lofty inscription to be placed in
+raised letters upon the great tower: "Qui qu'en grogne, ainsi sera, c'est
+mon plaisir;"--so runs the legend, but unfortunately a similar story is
+told of Louis II., Duke of Bourbon.
+
+On the opposite side of the mouth of the Rance is Dinard, lately become a
+favourite watering-place; it has good sands, and houses and villas are
+rapidly rising up in every direction, and covering its granite hills.
+
+The prettiest route to Dinan is by the little steamer which ascends the
+Rance, a lovely voyage, occupying about two hours. The banks one mixture
+of rocks, valleys, and verdure; the river now expanding into the width of
+a lake, now narrowing between its forest-clothed sides. After passing
+through a lock, and, winding our way through a narrow pass of rocky crags,
+we reached the bridge of Dinan; above us, the gigantic granite viaduct
+stretched across the valley, the town, with its feudal walls and castle,
+perched on its rocky heights over the river.
+
+In the Grande Place is a miserable statue of Du Guesclin, who looks more
+like a wandering minstrel than the hero of Brittany and Constable of
+France. His life forms quite an historic romance. His future greatness was
+foretold by a prophetess; his wife, the Lady Tiphaine, was herself a
+fairy; his battles resemble those of the giants of old. Du Guesclin was
+born at Broons, and was the eldest of ten children and of great trouble to
+his parents. One day his mother dreamt she was in possession of a casket,
+containing portraits of herself and her lord, and on one side were set
+nine precious stones of lustrous beauty encircling one rough unpolished
+pebble. In her dream she carried the casket to a lapidary, and asked him
+to take out the rough stone as unworthy of such goodly company; but he
+advised her to allow it to remain, and subsequently it shone forth more
+brilliantly than the precious gems with which it was surrounded. The after
+superiority of Bertrand over the other nine children explained the dream.
+
+It was in this "Place," where his statue now stands, the celebrated duel
+took place between Du Guesclin and an English knight, called by the Breton
+chroniclers Thomas of Cantorb�ry. Dinan was at that time closely besieged
+by the Duke of Lancaster (1359), with the young Count de Montfort, and
+defended by Du Guesclin. A truce of forty days had been agreed upon,
+before the expiration of which Oliver, brother of Du Guesclin, rode out
+unarmed beyond the city walls, and was made prisoner by Thomas of
+Cantorb�ry, who demanded a ransom of 1000 florins. On this news reaching
+Du Guesclin, he immediately repaired to the English camp, where he found
+the Duke of Lancaster playing chess with Sir John Chandos. They received
+him most cordially, and agreed that the dispute should be settled by a
+combat within the walls, the Duke of Lancaster consenting to preside.
+Victory declared in favour of Du Guesclin, who would have cut off the head
+of his adversary, had not the Duke of Lancaster interceded for his life.
+Cantorb�ry was dragged upon a hurdle out of the lists, and condemned to
+pay 1000 florins to Oliver; his horse and armour were given to Bertrand,
+and the felon knight expelled the English army.
+
+We drove to see the Castle of Montafilant, one of the apanages of the
+Rohan family, which passed with many others to the unfortunate Gilles de
+Bretagne, by his marriage with the heiress Fran�oise de Dinan. The castle
+is approached by a steep winding path, leading to the plateau upon which
+it stands. Before the use of firearms, its position rendered it
+impregnable. Of its seven towers, two only remain.
+
+The story of Gilles de Bretagne forms the subject of a romance by the
+Vicomte Walsh. Though his conduct was not free from blame, his long
+captivity and tragic end have rendered this unfortunate prince an object
+of pity to posterity. Third son of Duke John V., he was reared with Henry
+VI. of England, and personally attached to the English; but he never was
+in league with England against his own country, and his uncle the
+Constable Richemont regarded him as the honour and hope of his house. His
+wife Fran�oise was the most beautiful and accomplished woman of her time,
+the "perle de noblesse, de gentilesse, et de savoir;" and moreover
+possessed of the rich inheritance of her uncle Bertrand de Dinan, of the
+Montafilant branch. She had been betrothed from her infancy to the Sire de
+Gavre, son of Guy, Comte de Laval; but her father died when she was only
+eight years old, and Gilles de Bretagne carried her off by force.
+Dissatisfied with his paternal inheritance, the lordship of Champtoc�, he
+retired to Guildo, one of the ch�teaux of Fran�oise's dower, where he
+passed his time in company with his English archers. His withdrawal from
+court was represented to Duke Francis as the beginning of a revolt, by
+Arthur de Montauban, his bitterest enemy and a great favourite of the
+Duke. Gilles neglected his young wife, and she is reported, in an
+unguarded moment, to have said to Montauban, she would marry him "if her
+husband were to die." Duke Francis was determined to get rid of his
+brother, and Charles VII. was persuaded to assist him in his vile design.
+The King arrested Gilles on the charge of high treason, as being in
+correspondence with the English; and, in proof of the charge, his enemies
+produced forged letters from the King of England compromising the loyalty
+of Gilles. Charles gave him over to his brother for punishment. In vain
+were Gilles's supplications to the Duke, or the entreaties of the
+Constable, who went to Dinan and knelt to Francis to beg for the pardon of
+his brother. Equally fruitless his being acquitted at R�don, from there
+being no proof of his guilt. The unfortunate Gilles was dragged from
+prison to prison, and consigned to keepers destitute of every feeling of
+humanity.  Montauban, an Italian by descent (his mother was a Visconti),
+sent for poison from Lombardy, and administered in his soup a strong dose,
+which the good constitution of Gilles enabled him to resist. Starvation
+was then tried, and the wretched Gilles would stand at his prison window,
+calling on the passers by to give him bread: "Du pain, du pain pour
+l'amour de Dieu," but no one ventured to relieve him. At last, a poor
+woman dared to give him food, and placed a loaf on the edge of his grated
+window, continuing for six months to share with him in secret her scanty
+meal of black bread. Seeing that he could hold out no longer and that his
+death was determined upon, Gilles begged the woman would fetch him a
+minister of religion, that he might confess before he died. By stealth she
+brought him a Cordelier monk, who confessed him across the bars of his
+prison, and Gilles adjured him to seek his brother and acquaint him with
+his pitiable condition. The monk started on his errand, but in the mean
+time the gaolers of Gilles determined on putting an end to his life. They
+twisted a cloth round his neck, and smothered him between two mattresses
+while he slept. The monks of Bosquen carried his body to their abbey for
+interment, and the wooden effigy that was placed over his grave is still
+preserved in the Museum at St. Brieuc. The monk who had received Gilles's
+confession went in quest of Duke Francis, who, on hearing of his brother's
+death when at Avranches, had left for Saint Michel. The monk met him on
+the Gr�ve, and cited him in the name of his brother "de la part du Messire
+Gilles" to appear within fifty days at the tribunal of Heaven to answer
+for his murder. The menace was realised. Duke Francis died within the
+appointed time, struck with remorse, and terrified at the summons of the
+Cordelier. The monk was never seen again. On the death of Gilles, the Duke
+of Brittany himself wished to marry Fran�oise, but she would not listen to
+his proposals; and at last was obliged, in order to recover her liberty,
+to marry the aged Comte de Laval, father of her betrothed, with whom she
+lived peacefully thirty years, and had three sons. Duke Francis II.
+appointed her to the charge of rearing his daughter Anne.
+
+Arthur Montauban turned monk to avoid the vengeance of Duke Peter, brother
+of Gilles, and eventually became Archbishop of Bordeaux. The Pope gave him
+the Abbey of R�don, but popular indignation prevented him from accepting
+the appointment.
+
+On our return from Montafilant we stopped to visit the Lunatic Asylum
+(Asile des ali�n�s), called Les Bas Foins, kept by the brothers of
+Saint-Jean-de-Dieu. There are six hundred inmates under the charge of
+about sixty brethren. The buildings, with the chapel, are very handsome
+and most complete in all the arrangements. Within the enclosure is a large
+piece of land. The lunatics are employed in agricultural, garden, and
+house occupations; they look very contented and happy. Visitors are not
+allowed to speak to them. We omitted seeing the Croix du Saint Esprit, a
+curiously sculptured Gothic granite cross of the fourteenth century, not
+far from the asylum.
+
+The castle of Dinan is now a prison. It was occupied by the Queen-Duchess
+Anne, when on her way to a pilgrimage to Notre Dame-du-Folgo�t, in
+fulfilment of a vow made during the illness of Louis XII. In the chapel is
+shewn a sculptured seat, still called the arm-chair of the Duchess Anne.
+Within these walls were crammed, in the last century, about 2000 English
+prisoners of war, many of whom fell victims to a contagious fever. From
+the platform of the keep we had a magnificent view of the surrounding
+country, extending to Mont Dol and the sea.
+
+The church of St. Sauveur has a richly sculptured Romanesque portal. It
+contains the heart of Du Guesclin, transferred from the church of the
+Dominicans, where he desired it to be interred by the side of his wife
+Tiphaine. His body was buried at St. Denis, in a tomb King Charles V.
+caused to be made in his lifetime, and he left orders that on his death
+his Constable should repose at his feet. On the dark-coloured monumental
+stone now incrusted on the wall, are roughly sculptured his arms (an eagle
+displayed charged with a cotice(3)), with a commemorative inscription in
+gold letters:--
+
+
+    "Cy: gist: le cueur: de
+    Missire: bertram: du gueaqui
+    en: son vivat: conetiable de
+    france: qui: trepassa: le: xiii^e
+    jour: de: jullet: l'an: mil iii^e
+    IIII^xx dont: son: corps: repos
+    avecques: ceulx: des: Roys
+    a sainct: denis en France."
+
+
+Above hangs a painting representing the Governor of Ch�teauneuf Randon,
+laying the keys of the town upon the dead body of the Constable.(4)
+
+[Illustration: 13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.]
+
+Many of the streets of Dinan preserve the character of the Middle Ages,
+the houses upon columns forming a kind of porch or covered way; and most
+curious of all is the dirty, steep, narrow, winding street, called the Rue
+de Jerzual, a ravine extending from the top of the town, in one pitch, to
+the river's edge. The Museum at the Mairie has an interesting collection
+of tumulary slabs--recumbent figures taken from different churches and
+abbeys, mostly from the Beaumanoir chapel of the Abbey of Lehon. There is
+one of Jean de Beaumanoir, son of the hero of the "Combat des Trente,"
+treacherously slain by his steward. He is represented in full armour, but
+with his head bare, to indicate the manner of his death. The effigy of his
+wife is also in complete armour, but on the belt that encircles her waist,
+like those worn by the knights, is sculptured a wreath of roses. She was a
+Du Guesclin by birth, and her feet repose upon an eagle, the bearing of
+her house. The statue of Roland, Vicomte de Dinan, one of the nine great
+Barons of Brittany in the twelfth century, is of gigantic proportions; the
+warrior is clad from head to foot in chain mail, but he holds one of his
+gauntlets in his hand. In the Museum is also a clock given to the city of
+Dinan by the Duchess Anne, inscribed with the name of its maker and the
+date of its construction: "1498, � Nantes par M. Hainzer de cette ville."
+The ancient bronze standard measures (�talons) of Dinan are decorated with
+the arms of the City, and Gothic inscriptions in relief, "Cart (quart) �
+gros bl� pour Dinan"--"Cart � fourmant (froment) pour Dinan"--and "Bouesceau
+� scel (boisseau � sel) pour Dinan." Portraits of Du Guesclin and other
+Breton worthies are in one of the rooms (Salle de l'Od�on). That of the
+Constable answers to the description given of his appearance. He was low
+in stature, with large Breton head, broad shoulders, long arms, and large
+hands. His eyes were green, and his complexion swarthy: "la peau noire
+comme un sanglier."
+
+[Illustration: 14. Ch�teau of La Belli�re.]
+
+The drives round Dinan are endless in variety,(5) and all beautiful. We
+took a carriage to see the Ch�teau of la Belli�re, about five miles and a
+half from Dinan, formerly the residence of Du Guesclin's wife, the
+celebrated Lady Tiphaine; her name answers probably to our English
+Tiffany:--
+
+
+    "William de Coningsby--
+    Came out of Brittany
+    With his wife Tiffany
+    And her maid Manifas
+    And his doggs Hardigras."
+
+
+[Illustration: 15. Chimney. Ch�teau of La Belli�re.]
+
+The Lady Tiphaine was heiress and daughter of the Vicomte de Belli�re; so
+deeply versed was she in astrology, she was called Tiphaine la F�e. During
+her husband's absence in Spain, she resided at Mont Saint Michel, having
+chosen this insulated spot for the facilities it afforded her of studying
+the stars. She gave Du Guesclin a calendar on vellum, containing verses at
+the beginning of each month, pointing out the lucky and unlucky days; how
+many she marked down as such, we know not. Tycho Brahe had thirty-two
+fatal days in his calendar. Had Du Guesclin consulted this precious
+volume, which is now preserved in the Library at Avranches, he would never
+have risked his fortune by fighting the battle of Auray on the Feast of
+St. Michel, one of the fatal days against which she specially warns him in
+her book. We wished to have seen the room where she died, and where many
+memorials of her are preserved; but the proprietor was at his d�jeuner,
+and would not grant us admittance, so we were forced to be content with
+seeing the exterior of the house, a ch�teau of the end of the fourteenth
+century. It stands on the edge of a large sheet of water, in the midst of
+trees on the roadside between Dinan and St. Malo. Its principal
+characteristics are its tall octagonal chimney-shafts, composed of
+granite, brick, and slate.  They are surmounted by pieces of slate placed
+edgeways and forming a kind of capital or coronet to the granite shaft.
+Some of the chimneys have two circles of these coronets, and others are
+enriched with little rows of arches, of which the sombre slate background
+throws out the delicate ornamentation. Recrossing the magnificent viaduct,
+we proceeded to visit the Benedictine Priory of Lehon, called in the
+country "Chapelle des Beaumanoirs" from the mortuary chapel of that family
+attached to the abbey:--
+
+
+    "Beaumanoir! � ce nom de glorieux prodiges
+    Des si�cles �coul�s r�veillent les prestiges:
+    La pierre des tombeaux a paru se mouvoir
+    Et des trente Bretons les clameurs belliqueuses
+    Semblent r�pondre, sous ces vo�tes fameuses,
+    A ce grand nom de Beaumanoir." --AUBRY.
+
+
+The west front, with its round-arched portal surmounted by a large Gothic
+window, is very pretty. The chapel of the Beaumanoirs was ravaged at the
+Revolution, the lead of the coffins sold, and the bones scattered. The
+statues have since been removed to the Museum at Dinan, and the crypt
+beneath, where they were buried, is inaccessible. At the Revolution, when
+the monks were expelled, the priory was sold and used for a spinning
+factory; and the weight of the machines crushed the floors, so as to shut
+up the entrance to the vaults. In the parish church adjacent, is to be
+noticed an ancient baptismal font, of cylindrical form, sculptured within
+and without. We returned home by the Ch�teau du Ch�ne-Ferron, approached
+by an avenue of firs, and had a lovely drive along the banks of the Rance.
+
+Our last excursion in Dinan was to the Ch�teau of La Garaye, rendered
+famous by the virtues and boundless charity of its last proprietors, Count
+Claude Toussaint Marot de la Garaye and his wife, whose interesting story
+is told in the charming poem of Mrs. Norton:--
+
+
+    "Listen to the tale I tell,
+    Grave the story is--not sad,
+    And the peasant plodding by
+    Greets the place with kindly eye,
+    For the inmates that it had."
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+Count Claude de la Garaye and his wife were young, beautiful, and endowed
+with friends, riches, and all that could make life bright and happy. They
+entertained with hospitality, and enjoyed the pleasures and amusements of
+the world; when one day the Countess was thrown from her horse, the
+expectations of an heir vanished, and she was left a cripple for life.
+Both were inconsolable for their disappointment. One day a monk came to
+visit them, and tried to comfort them, seeking by his converse to turn
+their thoughts from earthly affections to heavenly consolation--
+
+"Ah! my father," said the lady, "how happy are you, to love nothing on
+earth!"
+
+"You are mistaken," answered the monk; "I love all those who are in sorrow
+or suffering, and I submit myself to the will of the Almighty, and bend
+myself with resignation to every blow He strikes."
+
+He proceeded to show them there was still great happiness in store for
+them, in ministering to the comforts of others. Following his counsel,
+they went to Paris; for three years the Count studied medicine and
+surgery, and his wife became a skilful oculist. On their return to La
+Garaye, they gave up all the amusements of society, and devoted themselves
+to relieving the sufferings of their fellow creatures. Their house was
+converted into an hospital for the sick and the wounded, under the
+ministering care of the Count and his benevolent wife:--
+
+
+    "Her home is made their home; her wealth their dole;
+    Her busy courtyard hears no more the roll
+    Of gilded vehicles, or pawing steeds,
+    But feeble steps of those whose bitter needs
+    Are their sole passport. Through that gateway pass
+    All varying forms of sickness and distress,
+    And many a poor worn face that hath not smiled
+    For years,--and many a feeble crippled child,--
+    Blesses the tall, white portal where they stand,
+    And the dear Lady of the liberal hand."
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+Nor was their philanthropy confined to their own province. In 1720, they
+offered themselves to M. de Belzunce--"Marseilles' good bishop"--to assist
+him during the visitation of the Plague. The fame of their virtues reached
+even the French Court, and Louis XV. sent Count de la Garaye the order of
+St. Lazarus with a donation of 50,000 livres and a contract on the post of
+25,000 more.
+
+They both died at an advanced age, within two years of each other, and
+were buried among their poor at Taden, but their marble mausoleum in the
+church was destroyed in the French Revolution. Count de la Garaye(6) left
+a large sum to be distributed among the prisoners, principally English, at
+Rennes and Dinan, who were suffering pent up in these crowded gaols. The
+Comte had attended the English prisoners at Dinan during a contagious
+fever, called the "peste blanche," and, in acknowledgment of his humanity,
+Queen Caroline sent him two dogs with silver collars round their necks,
+and an English nobleman made him a present of six more.
+
+[Illustration: 16. Ch�teau of La Garaye.]
+
+The ruined ch�teau is approached by an ivy-covered gateway, through an
+avenue of beeches:--
+
+
+    "Le lierre flottant comme un manteau de deuil,
+    Couvre � demi la porte et rampe sur le seuil."
+                    LAMARTINE, _Harmonies Po�tiques_.
+
+
+or, as Mrs. Norton renders it:--
+
+
+    "And like a mourner's mantle, with sad grace,
+    Waves the dark ivy--hiding half the door
+    And threshold, where the weary traveller's foot
+    Shall never find a courteous welcome more."
+
+
+It is fast falling to pieces. The principal part remaining is an octagonal
+turret of three stories, with elegant Renaissance decoration round the
+windows. One more quotation from Mrs. Norton, and we quit these hallowed
+ruins:--
+
+
+    "We know the healthy stir of human life
+    Must be for ever gone!
+    The walls where hung the warrior's shining casque
+    Are green with moss and mould;
+    The blindworm coils where Queens have slept, nor asks
+    For shelter from the cold.
+    The swallow,--he is master all the day,
+    And the great owl is ruler through the night;
+    The little bat wheels on his circling way,
+    With restless flittering flight;
+    And that small bat, and the creeping things,
+    At will they come and go,
+    And the soft white owl with velvet wings,
+    And a shout of human woe!
+    The brambles let no footsteps pass
+    By that rent in the broken stair,
+    When the pale tufts of the windle-strae grass
+    Hang like locks of dry dead hair;
+    But there the keen sound ever sweeps and moans,
+    "Working a passage through the mouldering stones."
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+From Dinan, instead of taking the customary road to the railway station of
+Caulnes, we hired a carriage, in order to visit the fortress castle of La
+Hunaudaye, midway between Dinan and Lamballe. The road lay by Jugon, a
+town prettily situated in the cleft of two hills. On one once stood an
+important castle, which gave rise to the saying:--
+
+
+    "Qui a Bretagne sans Jugon,
+    A chape sans chaperon."
+
+
+Jugon is on the edge of two ponds. One of them, the largest in Brittany,
+hangs suspended over the town, as if threatening it with inundation. They
+told us it was swarming with fish of every description, and with pike of
+fabulous dimensions. Turning off the road to the right, we entered the
+forest of La Hunaudaye, and walked in a pouring rain to the ch�teau,
+situated a short distance from the road. It is of vast extent, has five
+round towers with ramparts of cut stone, and is surrounded by walls with
+machicolated parapets. It is a splendid ruin, but the incessant rain
+prevented us from spending much time in its examination. It was built in
+the thirteenth century by Olivier de la Tournemine, and was one of the
+strongest fortresses in Brittany. Situated in the midst of a vast forest,
+its lord and his retainers were the terror of the surrounding country. No
+traveller passed untaxed; all were compelled to pay toll. In 1504, the
+Bishop of St. Brieuc complains to the Parliament at Rennes that,
+regardless of the safeguard of the Duke, the foresters of the Lord of La
+Hunaudaye had carried off his horses, trunks, and baggage, and, a year
+later, they had the audacity to stop the Queen-Duchess Anne on her way to
+a pilgrimage to the Folgo�t. The Queen was conducted to the presence of
+the Lord of La Hunaudaye, who maintained to her that he had only exercised
+his right of exacting a ransom from all who passed through the forest
+without his permission, but that he waived his privilege in favour of his
+Sovereign. Be that as it may, he received her Majesty most royally, as the
+old chaplain, Oliver de la Roche recounts, and gave a splendid banquet,
+which he fully describes. The table, he says, was four times covered with
+thirty-six dishes of viands, and lastly, was brought in, "en grande
+v�n�ration," by eight squires, a whole calf, standing on its legs, well
+seasoned, with an orange in its mouth; and, when it appeared, the trumpets
+sounded so loud that it seemed as if the walls shook. On seeing the
+"dainty dish" that was "set before the Queen," all wished to have a share;
+and the chaplain relates, with great satisfaction, how he was served
+himself twice by the Lord of La Hunaudaye.
+
+The dark deeds of the lords of La Hunaudaye have given rise to many a
+legend. The following is a translation of one of the most popular:--
+
+
+    LEGEND OF LA HUNAUDAYE.
+        _(Translation.)_
+
+    "When the rock eagle wakes,
+    And the towers of Hunaudaye
+    Gleam like three phantom forms
+    In the morning's sunlight ray;
+    When night her darksome wing
+    Folds round this desert waste,
+    Shun all this cursed ground--
+    Traveller flee thou in haste.
+
+    "There once--Great Heaven shield
+    Us all! and no ill arise--
+    There once--Hush! leave me not;
+    Hear you, from the ground, low sighs?--
+    There once--wrapped in the gloom
+    Of a dark and rainy night,
+    A man of haughty mien
+    Knocked at the door of might.
+
+    "'Open!' cried he,--it turns
+    On groaning hinge. The rain
+    Pours, but the frightened guards
+    Mark neither spot nor stain
+    On his purple cloak--nor his plumes
+    Droop wet, yet the torrents fall
+    Wildly and fast to night,
+    Beating the castle wall.
+
+    "The baron, stern and sad,
+    Was in his tower alone,
+    Pacing, with mailed heel,
+    Upon the echoing stone:
+    Cried he--'What stranger seeks,
+    This hour, my castle drear?
+    Ho! Oliver, Ho! Ralph,
+    See who intrudeth here.'
+
+    "'Heaven shield thee, baron brave!
+    A strange knight in the hall
+    Craves audience.' 'Lead him here:
+    Stay thou and Ralph in call,
+    At need.' Silent and slow
+    The purple-mantled knight,
+    Advancing, paused--his looks
+    Gleaming unearthly bright.
+
+    "'Who art thou coming thus,
+    Loud clamouring at my gate,
+    Thou truly puissant knight,
+    With not one squire for state?
+    Knowst thou at word of mine--'
+    The stranger knight smiled stern,
+    Replied in awful voice,
+    'Would'st thou my name? now learn:
+    Here is my train--behold!'
+    He cried. There hideous stood
+    One spectre, then two more--
+    A sight to chill the blood--
+    Unveiled their features pale,
+    All three in cere-cloth dressed,
+    Opening all wide to point
+    Where blood flowed from the breast.
+
+    "'Baron, these are my guard,'
+    Said the unknown--'Here, lo!
+    Thy father's aged form,
+    By poignard stroke laid low;
+    Here thy wife, cruelly slain
+    In the year thy brother fell;
+    They stand, pale, bleeding, stiff,--
+    Their murderer, can'st thou tell?'
+
+    "The phantoms three enlaced
+    The trembling baron round;
+    He vainly shrieked,--the walls
+    With demon laughs resound;
+    The echoing thunders rolled
+    Along the valley deep;
+    Lightnings, when pale dawn broke,
+    Blasted the castle keep.
+
+    "It stands a blackened pile;
+    The ruined gate is there.
+    But the sky lowers dark,
+    Oh! traveller flee, beware;
+    At this hour the shades of night
+    Brood o'er the solemn gloom.
+    Traveller, haste, oh! haste;
+    Leave this abode of doom."
+
+
+It was in the forest of La Hunaudaye that the Chouans of the C�tes du Nord
+were secretly exercised and drilled by their chief, La Rou�rie, under the
+name of Gosselin, who died of horror on hearing of the execution of
+thirteen of his confederates betrayed by the physician Chaftal. Gosselin
+was succeeded by the "Cid" of the Chouan chiefs, Boishardy, called the
+"Sorcier," who, after his interview with General Humbert, was betrayed and
+shot by the "Bleus." For twelve years was Brittany cut off from France by
+this Chouan war, an insurrection even more formidable than that of La
+Vend�e. The peninsular position of Brittany, its vast extent of coasts,
+its forests, its mountains, its people, speaking a strange language,
+entirely under the subjection of the priests, rendered it peculiarly
+adapted to carry on a war against the republicans; a war, the whole object
+of which was to upset all order, by preventing the citizens from accepting
+office under the republic, by punishing those who acquired national
+property, by stopping couriers and all public conveyances, destroying
+bridges, breaking up roads, assassinating public officers, and executing
+horrible punishments on those who sent provisions into the towns.
+
+The castle of La Hunaudaye was destroyed by order of the Commune of
+Lamballe, in 1793, that it might not serve as a retreat for the Chouans.
+
+We arrived very wet at Lamballe, a town most picturesquely situated on the
+declivity of a granite cliff, surmounted by a handsome church, rising from
+the very edge of the rocks. It formed part of the territory of the Duke of
+Penthi�vre, whose heiress, Jeanne la Boiteuse, married Charles of Blois,
+the competitor with John de Montfort(7) for the dukedom of Brittany. More
+tenacious of her rights than her husband, Jeanne would never listen to any
+compromise. After the treaty of Bretigny, the kings of England and France
+proposed a division of the duchy between the two rivals; but, intimidated
+by his wife, Charles dared not consent; and again, before the battle of
+Auray, when a division was agreed upon, subject to the acceptance of the
+Countess, Jeanne exclaimed, "My husband makes too cheap a bargain of what
+is not his own." And she wrote to Charles, "Do what you please. I am a
+woman, and cannot do more; but I had rather lose my life, or two if I had
+them, before I would consent to so reproachable an act, to the shame of my
+family" (_des miens_). Later she said to him, "Preserve me your heart, but
+preserve me also my duchy, and, happen what may, act so that the
+sovereignty remains to me entire." Her pride and obstinacy cost her
+husband his life. The name of Lamballe is associated with the memory of
+the unfortunate Princesse de Savoie de Carignan, the sad victim of
+revolutionary fury. On the death of her husband, the Prince de Lamballe,
+the vast estates of the Penthi�vre family passed to his sister, the wife
+of Philippe Egalit�, and from her descended to Louis Philippe, King of the
+French.
+
+[Illustration: 17. Section of Lanleff Church.]
+
+Next day we made an excursion to the famed Temple of Lanleff, in Breton,
+the "land of tears," situated in a retired valley about six miles from the
+sea. According to the tradition of the country, it was built by "Les
+moines rouges," as they style the Templar Knights. The road was
+incessantly up and down hill, as we afterwards found they are throughout
+Brittany; a "pays accident�" it may be truly called. The chapel of Lanleff
+is composed of two concentric circular enclosures separated by twelve
+round arches, with cushion-shaped capitals, having heads, human and
+animal, rudely sculptured upon them at the four angles. Its whole diameter
+is about twenty-two feet. It was probably built by some Templar Knight in
+the beginning of the twelfth century on his return from the Holy Land. The
+number of arches may allude to that of the twelve Apostles.
+
+[Illustration: 18. Plan of Lanleff Church.]
+
+The parish church was built into the east side of the temple, the only
+part which has preserved its roof, and which served as a vestibule to the
+more modern building. A gigantic yew formerly grew in the central
+enclosure, and overshadowed it with its spreading branches; but the parish
+church has been taken down and rebuilt in another part of the village, and
+the yew-tree has disappeared.
+
+Close to the temple is a spring enclosed by flagstones. When moistened,
+they appear covered with blood-stained spots. According to the tradition,
+in olden times an unnatural father sold his child to the Evil One. The
+gold received for the bargain was counted out upon the side of the spring,
+and the accursed money left its print upon the stones. A bare-legged
+peasant who stood by with her pitcher, threw some water over the stones,
+and immediately there appeared round red spots of different
+sizes--indelible marks of the diabolical bargain. We went into a cottage
+close by, and had some boiled eggs and cider. The inmates were at their
+meal--a bowl of milk, into which they broke their buckwheat "galette." We
+were much struck with the jealous pertinacity of the Breton, to show he
+considers himself as of a different people and country to the rest of
+France, a feeling which more than three hundred years has not dissipated.
+Our driver would talk of Bretons and French as of distinct nations, and
+the Normans in this part of Brittany are the special objects of hatred,
+originating, perhaps, in the former subjection of Brittany to Normandy.
+When Charles the Simple ceded to the fierce Northmen the province now
+known by their name, their sovereignty extended over Brittany, and the
+dukes of Normandy did homage for both provinces to the King of France. The
+Bretons struggled hard against the supremacy of the Barbarians, but
+eventually had to acknowledge the Duke of Normandy as their sovereign
+lord.
+
+St. Brieuc, principal town of the department of the C�tes-du-Nord, has
+been described as an old town with a new face. Though one of the oldest in
+Brittany, it has little of antiquity to detain the traveller. The Palais
+de Justice is a handsome building, in the midst of a pretty garden,
+commanding a view of the Tour de Cesson, lower down the river (the Gou�t),
+a large circular tower built by Duke John IV., and blown up by Henry IV.,
+at the desire of the Briochins, as the inhabitants of St. Brieuc style
+themselves. The mine split it in two, and the part that remains serves as
+a landmark for the pilots between St. Brieuc and its port, about two miles
+distant, called L�gu�. Notre Dame d'Esp�rance is a pretty church, rebuilt
+about ten years since, with a calvary in front, and a series of painted
+windows representing the principal saints of Brittany, and the most
+celebrated pilgrimages of the Virgin in that province. At St. Brieuc,
+1689, James II. of England reviewed his little army, and was received with
+royal honours by the bishop of the place.
+
+We proceeded by the railway to Guingamp, next to St. Brieuc, the principal
+town of the department, capital of the duchy of Penthi�vre. It is situated
+in the richly wooded and cultivated valley of the Trieux, a favourite
+fishing river of considerable size, and affording trout, salmon, and dace,
+from Guingamp to Paimpol, where it falls into the sea, a distance of
+twenty miles. It runs through the centre of the town, and is here a
+considerable stream.
+
+Attached to the Cathedral is the venerated sanctuary of Notre
+Dame-du-Bon-Secours, one of the most celebrated places of pilgrimage in
+Brittany. The pardon takes place the Saturday before the first Sunday in
+July, and owes its origin to the brotherhood called the "Fr�rie blanche,"
+an association of which Duke Peter accepted the title of lay-abbot. The
+motto embroidered on their banner was (in Breton) "A triple cord is not
+easily broken." The triple cord being emblematic of the three
+estates--clergy, nobles, and laity--in whose unity consisted the strength of
+Brittany. The Fr�rie blanche no longer exists, the triple cable is broken,
+the pilgrimage alone remains.
+
+[Illustration: 19. Fountain of Duke Peter.]
+
+La Pompe, or the fountain of Duke Peter, as it is called, is of later
+dater date, being in the style of the Renaissance. It consists of three
+circular basins in tiers. On the lower are sea-horses, which, with their
+wings, support the second basin, and Naiads uphold the third. On the top
+is a figure of the Virgin with her arms extended.
+
+The women of Guingamp wear high muslin caps, dark petticoats, and black
+stockings. Knitting-pins in hand, they work away at their stockings
+whether walking, talking, or with a load of butter on their heads, as they
+do throughout all Brittany. When not at work, their knitting-pins are
+stuck in their hair. Knitting and spinning are the occupation of their
+lives. When the Breton's idol, Du Guesclin, was a prisoner to the Black
+Prince, and was asked how he could raise the large sum named for his
+ransom, Du Guesclin replied, that "the women of Brittany would rather spin
+for a year and ransom him with their distaffs, than that he should remain
+prisoner."
+
+
+    "Quand vous �tiez captif, Bertrand, fils de Bretagne,
+    Tous les fuseaux tournaient aussi dans la campagne;
+    Chaque femme apporte son �cheveau de lin;
+    Ce fut votre ran�on, messire Du Guesclin!"
+                    _Les Bretons_, A. BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Guingamp was given by Duke John V. to his son Peter, who resided here and
+rebuilt the castle. When attacked by his mortal illness, the physicians
+attributed his malady to witchcraft, and declared it could only be
+remedied by counter-spells. The Prince refused to have recourse to such
+means, saying, "I had rather die by the will of God, than live by the will
+of the Devil."--"J'aime mieux mourir de par Dieu, que de vivre de par le
+Diable."
+
+We walked to the small chapel of St. L�onard, picturesquely situated on a
+little eminence. It was built by Charles of Blois, on his return from his
+captivity in England, and dedicated by him to St. L�onard, the
+patron-saint of prisoners--a contemporary of Clovis, from whom he obtained
+permission to set free all the captives he should find in the prisons. In
+the month of May, people who are attacked with fever repair to St. L�onard
+to seek, upon the walls of the chapel or on the calvary attached to it,
+snails as cures for their malady. They must gather them themselves, pound
+them, and put them into little bags, which they wear round their necks. As
+soon as the fever leaves them they bury their bags at the foot of the
+walls of the chapel, and, if they fail to perform this ceremony, the fever
+will return. We found quantities of these bags, made of coarse linen,
+lying half-buried under the walls of the chapel. There is a pardon here
+every year, on which occasion only the chapel is opened.
+
+We took a carriage to Paimpol. On our way we stopped at the Ch�teau de
+Boisgelin, belonging to the Marquis of the same name, but could not obtain
+admittance. On to the Abbey of Beauport (Sancta Maria de Bello Porto),
+founded in the thirteenth century, beautifully situated on a tongue of
+land at the entrance of the Bay of Paimpol, opposite the island of
+Saint-Rion. In its large garden, which extends down to the sea, are
+planted myrtles, figs, mulberries, and other trees of the south of Europe.
+Beauport has been called the Chartreuse of Brittany. It is a lovely
+secluded spot, as, indeed, are most of the sites of the old abbeys,
+varying in aspect, but always beautiful. No description can give an idea
+of the magnificent panoramic views from the walls of the abbey.
+
+[Illustration: 20. Abbey of Beauport.]
+
+M. Merim�e justly observes, "It appears strange that, in so early a stage
+of civilisation, the monks should be so alive to the beauties of nature.
+The contemplative habits of monastic life must at all times have imparted
+to the mind a feeling of abstract beauty, independent of any idea of real
+utility. Secure of an uniform, peaceful existence, limited in his
+pleasures and his ambition, sheltered by his sacred office, above others,
+from the reverses of fortune, the monk of the thirteenth century was in a
+position to love, and did love, beauty for itself. And while the knight,
+at war with all the world, thought only on building an impregnable
+fortress, the abbot embellished his dwelling, and tasted the enjoyments
+afforded by imagination and the arts. "The abbey of Beauport is built in
+the pointed style, and is a perfect example of the monastic architecture
+of the thirteenth century--the most important and most beautiful convent
+ruins in Brittany. The original disposition of its buildings may yet be
+clearly traced. These abbeys were all built upon the same plan. In the
+centre was the square garden (pr�au), surrounded by the cloisters. On the
+south side the church, extending from west to east; on the north, the
+refectory, with the kitchen attached. On the east was the chapter-house,
+and some small apartments; above these were the dormitories. Outside was
+the interior court, reserved for the brethren, and beyond, the great
+court, into which the provisions were brought, and round which were the
+stables and farm buildings. The garden, orchard, mill, oven, dovecote,
+cider-press, &c., were all within the walled enclosure, for the abbeys
+were not merely convents dedicated solely to devotional exercises. After
+prayer followed labour. The Breton abbeys were quite model farms; the
+woods and the commons afforded the means of rearing cattle to those who
+had the privilege of pasturage in the forests. Many had also the right of
+acorns and beech-mast for their pigs (_droit au gland et � la fa�ne_). One
+abbey, that of Morimond (Haute Marne), is recorded to have had twenty
+piggeries, of three hundred pigs each, distributed in its forests. The
+monks also reared sheep and horses, and fattened fish in their ponds. They
+were the first who advanced the science of horticulture and the
+cultivation of vegetables. To these agricultural pursuits were added, in
+many convents, the industrial arts, and some of the brethren were brewers,
+curriers, fullers, weavers, shoemakers, carpenters, and blacksmiths. Their
+cultivation of the liberal arts and sciences is well known. During the
+Middle Ages the monasteries were the sole depositories of learning.
+Beauport is now occupied by a Polish lady, Countess Poninsky, who allows
+no one to enter the abbey, as her husband was buried in the church.
+
+Two or three miles further we reached Paimpol, where we remained the
+night, at a nice hotel. Paimpol is a seaport town prettily situated in a
+cultivated country on the bay that bears its name. Its inhabitants are
+employed in the mackerel and Iceland fisheries. The women about here wear
+close straw-bonnets. They all, in this department, ride on horseback, "�
+califourchon," like the men.
+
+We hired our carriage on to Tr�guier. At L�zardrieux we passed the estuary
+of the Trieux, over a magnificent suspension-bridge, at a considerable
+elevation above the water, vessels sail under it. It was built 1840, and
+is 833 feet long, that is, 167 longer than the famed bridge of La Roche
+Bernard (Loire Inf�rieure). The bridge swung frightfully when we passed
+over it. In the churchyard of Pleudaniel is a pretty granite calvary, and
+skulls are placed in recesses in the wall on each side of the
+church-porch.
+
+We next came to the Ch�teau of La Roche Jagu, on the summit of a hill
+overhanging the river Trieux and defending the entrance. It has more of
+the character of a "maison forte" than of a "manoir," as was termed the
+habitation of a knight, and of those who holding a fief, yet did not
+possess the seignorial right to a castle with towers and donjon. The
+manoir might be enclosed by walls and moats, but not with towers. The
+entrance on the side opposite to the river is through a large walled court
+by a low Gothic doorway, closed by an enormous iron grating of upright and
+horizontal bars of great thickness, hanging on four hinges, and secured by
+four locks; all the windows have gratings of the same kind. A stone
+staircase leads to the one story, consisting of a suite of large rooms
+half lighted by narrow windows. Some of these are occupied by the keeper
+of the castle and others are reserved for the use of the proprietor, the
+Marquis d'Argentr�, and, when he goes there, are decorated and partly
+furnished with the pieces of old tapestry lying about. At the end of these
+rooms is a turret, which communicates with a covered gallery surmounting
+the whole length of the fa�ade facing the river, and commanding a
+beautiful view of the windings of the silvery Trieux and of its
+fir-clothed banks. This gallery is furnished with battlements, and served
+the double purpose of a rampart and an observatory. The wall on the
+river-side is fifteen feet thick, and a chapel hewn in the thickness of
+the wall is lighted by a Gothic window looking over the Trieux. Fourteen
+elegant chimney-shafts of cut stone, cylindrical in form, and ornamented
+with iron spikes, give a most original character to the building. The
+ch�teau belonged to the Mar�chal Duc de Richelieu, who sold it in 1773 to
+the Tressan family, under the stipulation that its subterranean passages
+should not be explored. They are said to extend under the bed of the river
+to the Ch�teau of Frinandour, half a league distant.
+
+We next passed through Pontrieux, a pretty, small town, seated in a deep
+valley, the river Trieux flowing through it. The river here is famous for
+salmon, and there is a considerable commerce in its little port.
+
+La Roche-Derrien on the Jaudy, during the War of Succession in Brittany,
+was a castle of some celebrity. It was here Charles of Blois was taken
+prisoner by the English, who, under Sir Thomas Dagworth, were in
+possession of the place. Charles of Blois assembled a large army, and
+attacked them by night. Three times was he rescued, and three times
+retaken; he had received eighteen wounds, and was at last compelled to
+surrender. Jeanne de Montfort, like all women who hate, was very
+vindictive, and caused her illustrious prisoner to be ignominiously
+dragged to Quimperl�, Vannes, and Hennebont, whence he was transferred to
+London, and confined in the Tower. It was nine years before he regained
+his liberty.  Meanwhile his heroic wife, Jeanne de Penthi�vre, became head
+of his party, as Jeanne de Flandre was that of the De Montfort. The "War
+of the two Jeannes" continued for nine years, during which they fought
+with fierceness and courage, and ruled with ability. Curious,--the history
+of France was illustrated in this century by five heroines of the name of
+Jeanne: Jeanne d'Arc, Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais, and the Jeannes of
+Penthi�vre, Flandre, and Clisson, who made themselves famous in Brittany.
+On his release, Charles of Blois gave La Roche-Derrien to Du Guesclin.
+The castle was demolished, but a calvary has been built on the site.
+
+Not far from La Roche-Derrien is the church of Langoat, which contains the
+monument of Ste. Pomp�e (1370), mother of St. Tugdual. On the granite tomb
+reposes her marble effigy, and around it bas-reliefs in Gothic niches
+represent the life of the saint. In all the churches in this district,
+tressels are placed in the nave ready for funerals. The gravestones have
+in each a little hollow well, to contain water for sprinkling over the
+grave, or in some a small basin is set upon the gravestone, with a sprig
+of box laid by the side, for the same pious purpose.
+
+Every one must be struck by the excellence of the roads in Brittany, as
+indeed throughout France; in no instance does the French administrative
+talent more fully display itself. The roads are of three classes: the
+"routes imp�riales," under the care of the Government; "d�partementales,"
+kept entirely at the expense of the department; and the "chemins
+vicinaux," which belong to the communes or parishes, and which all the
+inhabitants are called upon to support. To each lieue de poste (two and a
+half miles), is appointed a "cantonnier" or road-keeper, who is
+responsible for the condition of the length of road assigned to his care.
+
+We stopped at Kermartin, a farmhouse near Tr�guier, to see the bed said to
+have belonged to St. Ives, the favourite saint of the Bretons, and whose
+name is borne by the majority of the inhabitants of the district of
+Tr�guier and St. Brieuc. Charles of Blois held him in great veneration. He
+gave part of a rib of St. Ives to the church at Lamballe, and carried the
+relic in procession barefooted to the church. Before the battle of Auray,
+he ordered his men to march "in the name of God and St. Yves."
+
+St. Ives, or Yves H�lory, was one of the most remarkable characters of the
+thirteenth century. He studied law in the schools of Paris, and applied
+his talents in defending the cause of the poor; hence he was called "the
+poor man's advocate;" and so great to this day is the confidence placed in
+his justice, that, in the department of the C�tes-du-Nord, when a debtor
+falsely denies his debt, a peasant will pay twenty sous for a mass to St.
+Yves, convinced that St. Yves will cause the faithless creditor to die
+within the year. His truthfulness was such, he was called St. Yves de
+Verit�. He is the special patron of lawyers, and always represented in the
+"mortier," or lawyer's cap, with an ermine-trimmed scarlet robe.
+
+
+    "Saint Yves �tait Breton,
+    Avocat et pas larron,
+    Chose rare, se dit-on."
+
+
+Lawyers, says a writer, take him for a patron, but not for a model. Philip
+le Hardi, in acknowledgment of his worth, granted him a pension of six
+deniers a day--in those times a considerable sum.
+
+Over this house is a marble tablet with this inscription:--
+
+         "Ici est n� le 17 Oct^r 1253, et est mort le 19 Mai 1303,
+
+                               SAINT YVES,
+
+  Officiel de Tr�guier, cur� de Tredretz et de Lohannec. Sa maison, qui a
+  subsist� jusqu'en l'ann�e 1834, ayant �t� alors demolie � cause de
+  vetust�, Mg^r Hyacinthe Louis de Quelen, Arch^vque de Paris, et
+  propri�taire des domaines de Kermartin, a fait placer cette inscription,
+  afin qu'un lieu sanctifi� par la presence d'un si grand serviteur de
+  Dieu ne demeur�t pas inconnu (1837)."
+
+The house is a good specimen of a Breton dwelling; by the side of the
+fire, in the one room of which most of these cottages consist, fixed
+against the wall like the berth of a ship, stands the bedstead or "lit
+clos" of old oak, shut in by carved and well-waxed sliding panels, often
+inscribed with the sacred monogram.  The two mattresses, paillasse, and
+"cossette de plume," are piled up to such a height as barely to admit of
+its tenants creeping into the bed. In front is the customary chest,
+containing the family wardrobe, answering the double purpose of a seat and
+the means of ascending into the bed. Often we have seen cupboards on each
+side of the large chimney with two shelves, which served as beds for the
+juvenile members of the family. Forms and a polished table complete the
+furniture; the last has frequently little wells hollowed in the top, used,
+instead of plates, to hold the soup. Over the table, suspended by pulleys,
+are two indispensable articles in a Breton dwelling--a large circular
+basket to cover the bread, and a kind of wooden frame or rack, round which
+the spoons are ranged. Forks they do not use. Festoons of sausages, with
+hams, bacon, candles, skins of lard, onions, horse-shoes, harness, all
+hang suspended from the ceiling, which consists of fagots of hazel
+suspended by cross-poles. The floor is of beaten earth. One narrow window
+admits the light, and there are no outhouses. The manure-heap is generally
+at the house-door, and the pigs and poultry seem on an equally intimate
+footing as they are in our Irish cabins. The Breton's cottage has often no
+garden, to occupy his leisure hours; and the men, after their daily work,
+resort to the cabaret to spend their time and their earnings. Agriculture
+is very backward in Brittany, but the land produces abundance of corn. It
+is thrashed out direct from the field, on a clay floor (aire). Beet-root
+and clover grow very luxuriantly, and in some fields the pretty red clover
+(_Trifolium incarnatum_) carpets the country with its crimson flowers.
+
+Near the farmhouse of Kermartin is the parish church of Minihy-Tr�guier,
+formerly a chapel founded by St. Ives and attached to the "manoir." The
+will of St. Ives is framed and hung up in the church, and his breviary is
+also preserved here; but the guide said it was now kept at the priest's
+house, as people were in the habit of taking away a leaf as a relic.
+Minihy, _i. e._ Monk's House, is a name given to those places which,
+through the intercession of some saint, had the right of sanctuary. They
+were marked with a red cross, and, how great soever the crime, were
+regarded as inviolable. In 1441 the right of sanctuary was restricted to
+churches; before, it was extended to towns and districts. Tr�guier had the
+privilege within a radius of twelve miles from the town. St. Malo also
+possessed the right of sanctuary. Tr�guier is one of the four bishoprics
+that formed the ancient divisions of Brittany. The others were L�on,
+Cornouaille, and Vannes. The "pays de Tr�guier" answers exactly to the
+present department of the C�tes-du-Nord; L�on to the territory or
+arrondissement of Brest and Morlaix; Cornouaille has Quimper and Carhaix
+for its principal towns; and Vannes, the country of Celtic remains, is to
+the south.
+
+Tr�guier is prettily situated on a hill, at the confluence of the rivers
+Jaudy and Guindy; its principal building is the beautiful, imposing
+cathedral, with its elegant spire, begun in the thirteenth century by St.
+Yves, and dedicated to St. Tugdual, whose name, like St. Yves, is often
+given in baptism to the Breton children. St. Yves is buried here, and also
+Duke John V., who founded the Chapelle du Duc, and desired to be interred
+at the feet of St. Yves, for whom he had a special regard, and to whom he
+erected a magnificent tomb, for three centuries the object of veneration
+in Brittany. The Duke paid for it his own weight in silver (389 marks 7
+oz.), in 1424, to Maistre Jacques de Hougue. The victories of his father
+John the Conqueror were chased in bas-relief round the tomb, which was
+destroyed in 1793. Duke John V. was a contemptible prince, who eight times
+changed his party from weakness rather than policy, and on whom Margaret
+de Clisson and her sons retaliated the cowardly seizure of her father, the
+Constable Clisson, by Duke John IV. One of the towers of the cathedral is
+called the tower of Hastings, but its date is evidently subsequent to that
+of the Norman freebooter. The cathedral has preserved its beautiful
+cloisters, the work of the fifteenth century, although it has been ravaged
+by the Normans of the ninth century, the English in the fourteenth, the
+Spaniards in the sixteenth, and by the Revolutionists of 1793. It was the
+port chosen by the Constable Clisson, 1387, for the invasion of England,
+an expedition proposed and projected by himself. His hatred against the
+English was so great, though educated in England, he was termed the
+"boucher des Anglais." When the Duke of Brittany gave Chandos the ch�teau
+of Gavre, which was within a league of Clisson's ch�teau of Blain (Loire
+Inf�rieure), "I will never," he exclaimed, "be the neighbour of the
+English," and accordingly he sallied out one morning and burnt the castle
+to the ground. Chandos complained to the Black Prince, who sent a letter
+of remonstrance to Clisson, but it was only replied by a challenge to the
+Prince to meet him in single combat. Clisson caused his own ship to be
+built at Tr�guier, and had constructed a tower or framework of large
+timber, to be put together on his landing in England, for the lords to
+retreat to as a place of safety, and to be lodged therein securely in the
+event of a night attack. This tower, Froissart says, was so constructed,
+that when dislodged it could be taken to pieces, and many carpenters and
+other workmen were engaged, at very high wages, to go with it to England
+to superintend the putting of it together. Four thousand men-at-arms and
+2000 cross-bowmen were in readiness for the expedition, with horses,
+vessels laden with wine, salted provisions, and other necessaries. All
+these formidable preparations were rendered useless by the arrest of the
+Constable the day before his embarkation. We went to the Cemetery, which
+has its ossuary, reliquary, or bone-house, an inseparable appendage to a
+Breton churchyard. It is the custom in Brittany, after a certain time, to
+dig up the bones of the dead, and preserve their skulls in little square
+boxes, like dog-kennels, with a heart-shaped opening through which the
+skull is visible. They are all ticketed with the names and dates of the
+deceased, as "Ci g�t le chef de * * * D. c. D. (d�c�d�) le * * * * *.
+Priez Dieu pour son �me."
+
+[Illustration: 21. Skull-box.]
+
+These boxes sometimes occupy prominent places inside the churches or
+porch, on window sills, the capitals of columns, and other ledges; but
+more often are ranged in the ossuaries or charnel-houses built in the
+churchyards to receive them, with a row of death's-heads carved in the
+stone outside. The large bones are also placed in the ossuaire. The rich
+are buried in "enfeux" or arched recesses in the chapels or abbeys they
+have founded.
+
+We continued our carriage to Lannion, our driver not very clear of his
+way, and in Brittany the road is very difficult to be discerned; for on
+each side are high earthen banks, sometimes eight or ten feet high, and on
+the top of these are planted timber-trees, such as oak, elm, and ash,
+which often meet at the top, entirely intercepting the view, making these
+narrow lanes a perfect slough and most intricate to thread. Sometimes they
+are cut in irregular steps in the solid rock, and serve for the bed of a
+stream. Each field is also surrounded by these hedgerow-trees, which are
+cut every four or five years.
+
+We drove to Perros Guirec, a lovely little watering-place built on a small
+promontory with a safe harbour, whence wheat, hemp, and cattle are
+exported to England; it is six miles from Lannion. A dangerous rock,
+called Roche Bernard, is at its entrance. The view is lovely. From Perros
+we scrambled over a hilly cart-road to Ploumanach, about three miles
+distant--a wonderful spot, huge round erratic blocks of pink granite flung
+over land and sea in the wildest confusion. The whole coast is one sea of
+boulders, a chaos of rocks of all sizes cover the soil in every direction,
+and in many places there is no soil at all, and the loose masses rest on a
+bare bed of rock, stretching, in unbroken extent, to a great distance. "A
+wanderer," says Mr. Trollope, "amid this strange and silent scene might
+fancy himself the only living thing in the midst of a world turned to
+stone. In every possible variety of uncouth form and capricious, strange
+positions, the endless masses were around us."
+
+
+    "All is rocks at random thrown,
+    Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone.""
+                    LORD OF THE ISLES.
+
+
+One rock, surrounded at high water by the tide, is a square block of red
+granite of thirty to forty feet high, placed on the top of a still higher
+mass, on which it rests upon a very small base. It is called the "Roche
+Pendue," and serves as a landmark for the fishermen. We took a small boat
+full of fish resembling codlings or small cod, called "lieu," and were
+rowed by the fishermen through a sea of granite boulders to the opposite
+side of the Tr�gastel estuary, to see the "pierre pendue," or
+rocking-stone (Breton, _rouler_), the largest in Brittany. These stones
+are so nicely poised that they can be moved with the slightest impulse by
+any one knowing the exact point at which to touch them. They were used in
+early times as proving-stones, and called "Pierres de verit�."
+
+
+                    "Firm as it seems,
+    Such is its strange and virtuous property,
+    It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch
+    Of him whose breast is pure; but to a traitor,
+    Though e'en a giant's prowess nerved his arm,
+    It stands as fixed as Snowdon." --MASON.
+
+
+Or, as Sir Walter Scott alludes to them,--
+
+
+      "Some, chance-poised and balanced, lay
+    So that a stripling arm might sway
+      A mass no host could raise,
+    In nature's rage at random thrown,
+    Yet trembling like the Druid's Stone,
+      On its precarious base." --LORD OF THE ISLES.
+
+
+The council of Nantes, in the seventh century, ordered the bishops to have
+the rocking-stones destroyed. The coarse rose-coloured granite of this
+coast resembles the Egyptian.
+
+We rowed back to the little inn at Ploumanach, and had some eggs and a hot
+langouste or rock-lobster. This kind is more plentiful on the coast of
+Brittany than the common, but these rocky shores abound in both sorts. The
+village of Ploumanach is built nearly into the sea, in the midst of rocks
+overhanging the harbour. It is almost exclusively frequented by fishermen;
+in the front is a group of rocks or islands called Les Sept Iles; the Ile
+aux Moines, the most important among them, is strongly fortified, and is
+directly opposite Ploumanach. At the inn we found a German artist employed
+in making sketches in oil of this strange coast. It was late when we
+reached Lannion, a town prettily situated in the valley of Leguer; it
+contains no remarkable buildings except a few houses of the period of
+Henry IV. and Louis XIII. in the market-place. The mackerel and other
+fisheries are carried on from here, the grande and petite p�che, the
+"lieu" is taken in shoals and salted. The seaweed or wrack (_Fucus
+vesiculosus_) called go�mon, is extensively collected along the coasts of
+Brittany for fertilising the lands and also for fuel, which last is so
+scarce that even cow-dung is collected and dried against the walls for the
+same use. The gathering of go�mon takes place in March and September, and
+employs the whole population of the district. Souvestre says, that on the
+appointed day for gathering the crop, horses, oxen, cows, dogs, every
+animal, and every machine, is put into requisition. Women and children all
+are assembled in the bays, sometimes to the number of 10,000 persons; but,
+to allow the poor to have the full advantage, the custom is, on the first
+day, to admit only the necessitous of the parish. These borrow their
+neighbours' vehicles, and collect a good crop. It is called "the day of
+the poor." The go�mon grows on rocks at a distance from the shore, and the
+peasants not having sufficient boats to collect it tie the heaps together
+with cords on to branches of trees and form a raft, on which the whole
+family is launched; a barrel is attached at the end, and the unsteady
+craft often rolls over and its cargo is precipitated into the water. The
+fine sands of the sea shore are also carted and laid on the heavy lands to
+divide the soil. Ascending the valley of the Leguer, about eight miles
+from Lannion, on the opposite side of the river, we turned down a muddy
+lane, and getting out into a field saw in front of us the imposing castle
+of Tonqu�dec, perhaps the finest remains in Brittany of military
+architecture, dating from the fourteenth century. It crowns the summit of
+a hill, wooded down to the river's edge, with water-mills and a little
+village at the foot, the bright sparkling river running through the deep
+wild valley; nothing can exceed the picturesque effect of these ruins when
+seen from the opposite bank. Tonqu�dec has belonged from time immemorial
+to the Viscomtes de Co�tmen, who held the first rank among the nobles of
+Brittany, but one of them espousing the cause of the Constable Clisson
+against Duke John IV. saw his fortress demolished. It was restored under
+Henry IV., and again dismantled by order of Cardinal Richelieu, who hated
+castles and their nobility. The castle is an irregular four-sided figure.
+It had an outer enclosure, and was entered by a drawbridge, and furnished
+with every imaginable fortification. Three sides were surrounded by
+dwellings, among these a fine roofed salle d'armes remains. A flying
+bridge led to the keep, which was of four stories, but the entrance on the
+first story, so that in case of siege the garrison might retire to the
+keep, and hold out till want of provisions or ammunition compelled them to
+surrender. The towers and walls remain, the latter are ten feet thick.
+
+On our way to Plouaret we drove up to the ch�teau of Kergrist, a square
+edifice with pepper-box towers at each angle, in good preservation,
+occupied by a lady of the name of Douglas. Our driver could not find the
+way to the "Chapelle des Sept Saints," built over a dolmen, which lay near
+the station at Plouaret, whence we proceeded by rail, and, entering the
+department of Finist�re, shortly after reached Morlaix over its
+magnificent granite viaduct, the most important among the many which occur
+between Rennes and Brest. The railway runs parallel to the coast, and
+traverses, not far from their mouths, the streams which abound in this
+"pays accident�." This gigantic work is one-sixth of a mile (292 yards)
+long, and consists of two tiers of arches, fourteen in the upper line and
+nine below.
+
+Morlaix is picturesquely built on the sides of three ravines, so steep
+that the saying goes, "De la mansarde au jardin, comme on dit � Morlaix."
+It is situated on a tidal river, about eight miles from the sea, ascended
+by small vessels, which give the place a lively appearance. Few towns have
+so many beautiful timbered houses of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
+remaining. One of the most curious is that belonging to a miller, No. 19,
+in the Rue des Nobles, a street where the houses are built one story
+projecting over the other, so that the top stories of the opposite houses
+nearly touch each other and exclude the light. The fronts, gable-shaped,
+have their enormous beams richly carved, and supported by brackets and
+statues of St. Yves or other favourite saints; some are overlaid with
+lozenge-shaped slates, and finished at the point with a leaden "�pi," or
+ornamental terminal. All have a kind of hall, panelled and sculptured to
+the roof, the staircases richly sculptured and supported by a pillar
+carved from top to bottom with statues of saints or grotesque figures
+superposed one over the other. Among the statuettes in the house, No. 19,
+are the figures of St. Roch and his dog; St. Christopher carrying the
+infant Jesus, St. Michael, and various others. On another staircase, in
+better preservation, but not so richly carved (at the Veuve Perron's, No.
+14, Grande Rue), are female saints,--the Virgin, St. Catherine, and St.
+Barbara.
+
+Morlaix gave a grand reception to the Queen-Duchess Anne, when on her
+pilgrimage through Brittany in 1505. The town presented her with a little
+ship of gold, bearing the arms of the city, and enriched with precious
+stones, and a tame ermine with a diamond collar round its neck. Anne
+received the ermine, and caressed the little animal, who returned her
+endearments, and, at length, suddenly concealed itself in her bosom, which
+unexpected proceeding startled the Queen, when the Seigneur du Rohan, who
+was by her side, exclaimed, "What do you fear, madam; is not the ermine
+your cognisance?" No less enthusiastic was the reception given by the
+citizens of Morlaix forty years later (1548) to Mary Stuart, then only
+five years old, on her landing in France. She was lodged in the convent of
+the Jacobins, and assisted at the Te Deum in the church of Notre
+Dame-du-Mur. When passing through one of the gates on her way back, the
+drawbridge, overloaded with spectators, gave way, and several persons were
+thrown into the water. Mary's Scottish attendants cried out "Treason!" but
+the Seigneur de Rohan, who was on horseback by the side of the royal
+litter, indignantly exclaimed, "Jamais Breton ne fit trahison." The
+loyalty and good faith of the Bretons is proverbial. "En tout chemin,
+loyaut�," is a Breton motto,(8) and it is one of the virtues attributed to
+them by a Breton writer, who assigns to them four virtues and three vices.
+Their virtues consist in a love of their country and their home,
+resignation to the will of the Almighty, loyalty to each other, and
+hospitality. Their vices are avarice, contempt for women, and drunkenness.
+Their love of country and home is carried to an extent, rivalling, if not
+exceeding, that of the Swiss. The Breton not only loves the village where
+he was born, but he loves the field of his fathers, the hearth and the
+clock of his home, even the bed on which he was born, and on which he
+hopes to close his eyes. The conscript and sailor are often known to die
+of grief when away from their native land. Brittany possesses for its
+children an inconceivable attraction, and there is no country in the world
+where man is more attached to his native soil.
+
+
+    "O landes! � for�ts! pierres sombres et hautes,
+    Bois qui couvrez nos champs, mers qui battez nos c�tes,
+    Villages o� les morts errent avec les vents,
+    Bretagne, d'o� vient l'amour de tes enfants?" --BRIZEUX.
+
+
+The Bretons are brave soldiers and good sailors; their disposition is
+hasty and violent, and even ferocious in anger. When the people of Nantes
+rose up in rebellion against Duke Francis, his brother-in-law, the Comte
+du Foix, sent to pacify them, said to him on his return from his mission,
+"J'aimerais mieux �tre prince d'un million de sangliers que de tel peuple
+que sont vos Bretons"--Brittany has always been the theatre of great
+virtues and great crimes.
+
+On Sunday we went to the Welsh Baptist Chapel, to hear Mr. Jenkins preach
+in the Breton language. He has been there thirty years zealously labouring
+among the peasants, to convert whom he was sent by the Welsh Baptist
+Missionary Society. From his thorough knowledge of the French and Breton
+languages, he is eminently fitted for the task. He travels about the
+surrounding country preaching, and establishing schools, and has revised
+the Breton(9) translation of the New Testament for the Society, and
+circulated, by means of colporteurs, from eight to nine thousand Bibles,
+besides above 100,000 tracts. The task of acquiring the Breton language is
+less difficult for a Welshman, for the similarity between them is so great
+that the two people are able to make themselves understood to each other.
+The labours of Mr. Jenkins have lately awakened the attention of the
+Breton Roman Catholic clergy, who have publicly denounced him from their
+altars, but without causing him to slacken in the good work he has
+undertaken. Persecuted by a tyrannical priesthood, who hold dominion over
+a peasantry bigoted in proportion to their ignorance, his position is one
+of difficulty and danger; but he goes on with undrooping energy, convinced
+that, though the progress is slow, the good seed has not been sown in
+vain, and will, in due time, bear fruit, though those who first sowed it
+may have passed away. There were about a dozen Bretons at the evening
+service; they seemed to be constantly going in and out, as if unable to
+keep up their attention to so long a service. There are also English
+Protestant chapels at Morlaix and Quimper, and French at Brest and
+Lorient.
+
+We saw a christening in the cathedral, of a child about eighteen months
+old; the mother wore a wonderful conical cap of lace.
+
+A few houses from our hotel a ball was going on, given every week for the
+workpeople of the town. The clatter of their iron-pointed wooden shoes
+seemed quite to drown the music.
+
+Next day we walked to the Fontaine des Anglais, so-called from the
+slaughter of a body of English at that place. Jealous of the prosperity of
+Morlaix, Henry VIII. sent a fleet up the river to attack the place, and
+the commander, being informed by a spy of the absence of the chief nobles
+at Guingamp, and of the townsmen at the fair of Pontivy, landed with a
+force which entered Morlaix, burnt it, and returned laden with booty to
+their boats. Six or seven hundred men, who were intoxicated, fell asleep
+in the wood, where they were attacked by the nobles, who had hastened from
+Guingamp to the assistance of the town, and were all massacred. The
+neighbouring fountain, said to have been tinged with the invaders' blood,
+received in memory of the event the name of "Fontaine des Anglais." It was
+on this occasion the town of Morlaix added to its arms, a lion (emblem of
+vigilance), encountering a two-headed leopard (for England), with the
+punning motto, "S'ils te mordent, mors-les" (Morlaix).
+
+Emile Souvestre, author of 'Le Foyer Breton,' and 'Les Derniers Bretons,'
+the ablest portrayer of Breton manners, customs, and superstitions, was a
+native of Morlaix; he died in the Protestant Communion, 1854.
+
+We were recommended to sail down the Morlaix River to its mouth, as the
+scenery is very picturesque, but we had not time to effect it. The great
+beauty of Brittany generally consists in its river scenery, the Rance, to
+Dinan; the rivers of Quimper and Quimperl�; the Aven, Elorn, and Blavet,
+are all highly picturesque and worth visiting. Our next drive was to St.
+Pol de L�on, partly along the bank of the river, passing under the church
+of Notre Dame-de-la-Salzette and the convent below of St. Fran�ois. The
+tall steeples of St. Pol are seen at a great distance, and looking behind
+is the best view of the Men�-Br�, an insulated conical mountain, one of
+the Men�-Arr� chain, situated near the station of Belle-Isle-B�gard. A
+chain of mountains runs through the C�tes-du-Nord, and, at the western end
+of the department, forks off into two branches which traverse the whole of
+Finist�re,--the Men�-Arr�, or northern chain, and the Montagnes Noires, or
+southern.
+
+St. Pol looks like a town of the Middle Ages. "The holy city," as it is
+called by the L�onnais, one of the four bishoprics(10) into which Brittany
+was divided, comprising the modern districts of Morlaix and Brest. The
+Pays de L�on is remarkable for the number of its religious monuments, its
+fine churches, its bone-houses, calvaries, way-side crosses, and shrines.
+Crosses are set up in every direction, and of every description, from the
+plain unpretending simple cross of wood or stone, to the huge crosses
+flaunting in green paint, with tears of gold--specimens of the taste of the
+maire or priest of the district. No Breton passes the sacred symbol
+without kneeling to salute it, and making the sign of the cross--evidence
+that the piety of those who first raised them has not degenerated in their
+posterity. The country is rich and varied. The L�onnais is tallest of all
+the Breton race; his dress is generally black or blue, with a coloured
+scarf round his waist, his hair is worn very long, and his broad-brimmed
+hat has a silver buckle.  He is grave, of a calm confiding faith, which
+nothing can shake or alter, and of intense religious feeling.  The church
+is the place of meeting, where all his business is transacted, all his
+aspirations centered. Throughout Brittany the priesthood are low and
+ignorant. Like the Irish, the Breton farmer's great ambition is to make
+his son a priest. In no part of France are they more uneducated than in
+Brittany.
+
+St. Pol is still and melancholy, the grass grows in the streets, the city
+looks as if it had not awakened since its palmy days of the fourteenth
+century. Its churches, calvaries, cemeteries, all silent as death--
+
+                 "A deep, still pool in the ocean of life."
+
+Its lively neighbour, Morlaix, offers a strange contrast: its inhabitants
+may well say they are three hundred years in advance of St. Pol.
+
+The pride of St. Pol de L�on is the church of Notre Dame-de-Creizker. Its
+steeple, nearly 400 feet high, was said by Vauban to be the boldest piece
+of architecture he ever beheld. It is built in the centre of the church,
+entirely of granite, cut in the shape of tiles and open work, to within
+eighty feet from the base. According to the legend, on the spot where the
+church now stands, there lived in the time of St. G�n�vroc, a young girl,
+whom the saint found, when passing her house on the f�te of our Lady,
+employed at her needle. He reproached her gently with her impiety, yet she
+went on sewing, saying "she required food on Sundays as well as on work
+days." But the girl has hardly finished speaking, when all her body became
+cold and motionless as a stone. She was completely paralysed. Asking
+pardon of St. G�n�vroc, he made the sign of the cross upon each of her
+limbs, and the power of motion returned. Grateful for her recovery, she
+gave to the saint, her house, which was situated in the middle of the town
+(as its name implies), as a site for his church. It is said to have been
+built by an English architect, invited to Brittany by Mary Plantagenet,
+daughter of Edward III., and first wife of Duke John IV.(11)
+
+The axis of the nave is inclined to the left, a mystic allusion to the
+position of the head of the expiring Saviour on the cross. _Et inclinato
+capite, emise spiritum_, "And He bowed his head, and gave up the ghost."
+The north porch of the Creizker is beautifully sculptured with leaves of
+the mallow, the vine, and mulberry. It was all under repair when we saw
+it.
+
+[Illustration: 22. The Creizker.]
+
+The cathedral has two fine towers with spires, and a magnificent rose
+window of the fifteenth century in the south transept, with, above, the
+"fen�tre d'excommunication." The fine porch, lightly and delicately
+sculptured, is surmounted by a balustrade, whence the episcopal
+benediction was given. Over the high altar is a large wooden crosier,
+gilt, from which to suspend the ciborium, similar to that we saw in the
+cathedral of Dol. A black marble slab, at the foot of the steps of the
+high altar, marks the grave of St. Pol de L�on, who died 570. St. Pol, the
+patron bishop and founder of the cathedral, was one of the clergy of Great
+Britain who emigrated to Brittany in the sixth century; he landed in the
+island of Ou�ssant, and passed on to the country of L�on, where he founded
+a monastery. The island of Batz was, at that time, infested by an enormous
+dragon, sixty feet long; the saint, accompanied by a warrior, entered the
+cavern of the monster, tied his stole round its neck, and gave him to his
+companion to lead, St. Pol following, beating him with his stick, till
+they arrived at the extremity of the island, when he took off the stole,
+and commanded the dragon to throw itself in the sea, an order the animal
+immediately obeyed. St. Pol is always represented with the dragon by his
+side, the stole round its neck. We were shown a little bell, said to have
+belonged to the saint. It appears he had repeatedly asked the king to give
+him this bell for his new church, but had always been refused. When one
+day some fishermen brought him a large fish taken off the island of Batz,
+and in its mouth was the coveted bell. It is certainly very ancient in
+form, a kind of square pyramid about four inches wide and nine high, of
+beaten red copper mixed, we were told, with a considerable quantity of
+silver. It is now rung over the heads of the faithful on pardons, as a
+specific against headache and earache--a singular remedy! The cathedral has
+a fine marble tomb of Bishop Visdelou, preacher to Queen Anne of Austria;
+he is represented in a half reclining posture, in his pontifical garments.
+In every part of the cathedral are the little boxes of skulls.
+
+Adjacent is the Ursuline convent, where is preserved a small figure of the
+Virgin in jet; brought from a church in the Iles Sainte Marguerite, taken
+from the Spaniards in the seventeenth century. It is supposed to possess
+miraculous powers, and is sent round to the sick as a specific.
+
+We breakfasted at the little inn (H�tel de France), commanding a pretty
+view of the coast from its windows and garden. The L�on country was
+governed by Viscounts, who boasted, among several manorial rights, the
+"droit de motte," which empowered them, if a vassal (they were "serfs de
+motte") attempted to live out of his demesne, or to enter the service of
+another lord, to bring him back to his "motte," a cord round his neck, and
+inflict upon him corporal punishment. By virtue of the same right, if the
+demesne of a lord was so placed that it had no natural height from which
+to survey its extent, his vassals were made to bring sufficient cart-loads
+of earth to raise a mound or "motte" of the requisite elevation. The other
+privilege was the droit de "bris," equivalent to our flotsum and jetsum,
+so lucrative that a L�on Viscount is recorded to have said, when a noble
+was exhibiting his casket of gems, that he possessed a jewel more precious
+than all they were admiring--alluding to a rock famous for its shipwrecks.
+Duke John the Red, taking advantage of the misdeeds of one of these lords
+of L�on, seized his rich possessions and united them (1276) to the crown.
+The viscounty of L�on fell by alliance, in the fourteenth century, to the
+house of Rohan, in whose favour is was raised in the sixteenth to a
+principality.
+
+We continued our drive to Roscoff, three miles distant, a little sea-port
+town, formerly one of the three great dens of corsairs and smugglers, all
+under the protection of St. Barbe,--the other two being Camaret and Le
+Conquet. Roscoff was the emporium of considerable contraband trade with
+England. Tea, wine, and brandy were brought over in small casks, which the
+smugglers tied together and threw into the sea, when near the coast, and
+landed at night. The whole country round is now one extent of
+kitchen-garden, the light sandy soil, dressed with the go�mon, produces an
+incredible quantity of vegetables, onions, cabbages, parsnips, asparagus,
+artichokes, cauliflowers, &c. Of onions, 2,000,000 lbs. are said to be
+sent every year to England alone. The people here wear black caps, those
+of the men are stocking-knit. The gardeners of Roscoff will carry their
+produce above a hundred miles for sale. The chief vegetable consumed by
+the Bretons themselves is the cabbage, of which the quantity raised is
+enormous. The kind grown is mostly the Jersey or cow-cabbage, which grows
+with stalks from five to six feet high, and has large leaves at every
+joint. They use them for their cattle, as well as for their own eating.
+Avenues of cabbages, stacked five or six feet high, are to be seen in most
+Breton markets. Bread or porridge of buckwheat (bl� noir) with
+cabbage-soup is the customary diet of the country. The recipe is simple,
+consisting of a cabbage-leaf, over which a little hot water is thrown, and
+a "soup�on" of butter added to give it a flavour. These ingredients
+compose the national soup which always appears at the t�ble d'h�te, with
+the inevitable "rago�t," _i. e._ harricoed mutton. The little town of
+Roscoff has some historic importance. It was here that John de Montfort
+sailed to England to do homage to King Edward III. for the duchy of
+Brittany, and returned by the same port. Here also the child-princess Mary
+Stuart landed in 1548 to marry the young Dauphin, afterwards Francis II.
+In commemoration of the event, she afterwards caused the little chapel of
+St. Ninian to be built close on the water's edge. It is not more than
+fifty feet long, and has an eastern flamboyant window, with others in the
+side walls. The arches are fast going to decay, the stone altar is also
+sculptured. When we saw it, the interior was filled with bundles of
+broom-branches and poultry. It is strange this little chapel, built by the
+Queen of two Kingdoms, should be suffered to fall to ruin for the lack of
+a trifling outlay.
+
+Here, two hundred years later, Prince Charles Stuart landed after
+Culloden, in the French frigate the 'Heureux,' sent by the French
+Government to facilitate his escape, having eluded, through the chances of
+a fog, the pursuit of the English cruisers; and here he knelt, in the
+chapel of his ancestress, to return thanks for his deliverance.
+
+The church of Roscoff has a curious pierced steeple, like many of those in
+Finist�re, and some alabaster bas-reliefs of the fourteenth century, with
+numerous boxes of skulls. A ship rudely sculptured by the porch, and
+another by the east window, show that the fishermen and ship-owners
+contributed to the building of the church. By the shore is a rock of
+grotesque form, and opposite, about three miles from Roscoff, is the
+pretty island of Batz, which derives its name--Breton "batz," a stick--from
+the rod used by St. Pol de L�on to work his miracle.
+
+People were busily employed in boats collecting the go�mon, which they
+pile in heaps along the shore. The great curiosity of Roscoff is its
+enormous fig-tree, in the garden of the Capucine convent, said to be two
+centuries old. It is supported by stone pillars, and is, we were informed,
+above 300 feet in circumference.
+
+We returned that evening to Morlaix: the viaduct by moonlight had a most
+picturesque appearance. Next morning we proceeded by rail to the station
+of St. Th�gonnec, where nothing in the shape of a vehicle was to be had to
+convey us to the town--nearly a mile and a half distant--but the ricketty
+two-wheeled mail cart. At the little cabaret, which bears the important
+name of H�tel de la Grande Maison, we procured breakfast. The church has
+been restored. It is rich in carvings, spoiled by gilding, the altars and
+canopied pulpit especially. Opposite to the last are two coloured
+"retables." The high altar, with two side altars and two smaller ones
+behind, are gorgeously carved, coloured and gilt, and extend to the roof.
+The painted-glass windows are the gifts of various persons. At the
+entrance of the churchyard is a Renaissance porch, or triumphal arch,
+dated 1581, with a sculpture representing St. Th�gonnec, a bullock and car
+by his side. Adjoining, is the ossuary, or reliquary, bearing the date
+1676, also in the same elaborate style, destitute of bones, but having
+below a crypt containing a group of life-sized figures representing the
+Entombment, with this inscription:--
+
+
+    "Tu le vois mort, p�cheur, ce Dieu qui t'a fait na�tre:
+    Sa mort est ton ouvrage, et devient ton appui.
+    A ce trait de bont�, tu dois au moins vivre pour lui."
+
+
+In the churchyard is also a calvary; the name given to those monumental
+sculptures peculiar to Brittany, consisting of the crucifix, surrounded by
+the chief witnesses of the crucifixion, together with minor groups
+representing passages in the life of our Saviour. This calvary, executed
+in Kersanton stone, is dated 1610; the numerous figures are all in the
+grotesque costume of the period, with ruffs, toquets, trained gowns, and
+scalloped jackets.
+
+[Illustration: 23. Calvary, Guimiliau.]
+
+We took a carriage for Guimiliau, passing on our road to the left, a
+grotto. The church of Guimiliau partly dates from the Renaissance; it has
+a finely sculptured porch, and contains within carvings of great beauty;
+the pulpit, supported on a column, is dated 1677; the organ-loft is
+enriched with splendid bas-reliefs in oak panels,--one represents a
+triumphal march, after Le Brun, the others, King David and St. Cecilia.
+But the grand monumental carving is the magnificent baptistery or
+baptismal font, surmounted by a baldachin or canopy, supported by eight
+twisted columns interlaced with vines, grapes and flowers, with graceful
+little birds pecking the fruit. On the top of the canopy is a dolphin, and
+above, two figures of Fame, trumpet-mouthed, surmounted by a royal crown
+and the letters S. V. This baptistery and the organ-loft are both in the
+style of Louis XIV., and are said to have cost 30,000 francs. In the
+churchyard are a triumphal arch and a reliquary, both inferior to those of
+St. Th�gonnec, but the calvary of Guimiliau is one of the most extensive
+in Brittany. It is of the sixteenth century. It consists of a solid
+platform, ascended by a staircase, and raised upon arches; upon it,
+sculptured in Kersanton stone, are the three crosses, the centre one
+beautifully carved with St. John and the Virgin Mary by the side. The four
+Evangelists are placed at each corner, and all the passages in the life of
+Christ are represented by groups of little figures in the costume of the
+sixteenth century. This singular monument bears two different dates, those
+of 1581 and 1588.
+
+Guimiliau is close to the railway, but there is no station there. We
+returned to St. Th�gonnec. The peasants along the road were threshing
+their buckwheat on the open ground; women as well as men were at work.
+They threshed in a circle, keeping good time with their strokes, and
+laughing merrily while they flourished their flails,--they appeared a most
+joyous party,--
+
+
+    "Ho! batteux, battons la gerbe,
+    Compagnons, joyeusement."
+
+
+Buckwheat, their "bl� noir," is the Breton's chief food, and is cultivated
+to a large extent. With its coral-red stalks and snowy flowers it has a
+very pretty appearance growing, and is the first care of the Breton
+farmer--
+
+
+    "Ah! que la sombre nue aux funestes lueurs,
+      Planant sur la campagne,
+    Epargne les bl�s-noirs, les bl�s aux blanches fleurs,
+      Ce pain de la Bretagne."" --ST�PHANE HALGAN.
+
+
+This plant, a native of Asia Minor, was evidently, from its French name,
+"sarrazin," introduced into Europe by the Saracens or Moors. We proceeded
+by rail to Brest, passing under the foot of the abrupt rock upon which
+stand the picturesque ruins of the ancient castle of La Roche Maurice and
+the church of La Roche. The rail runs along the banks of the Elorn through
+a narrow wooded valley; the windings of the river are very picturesque,
+and formerly a steamer ran from Landerneau to Brest, affording the
+opportunity of seeing them.
+
+Brest, the first harbour in France, is Breton only in name and locality;
+it is built in an amphitheatre on the slopes of two hills divided by the
+river Penfeld, which forms the port. On the right is the suburb
+Recouvrance, on the left Brest proper. This irregular site often causes
+the second floor of the houses in one street to be on a line with the
+ground floor of another. Brest is clean and well built, and consists of
+three long parallel streets. The principal one, called the Rue de Siam, in
+commemoration of the Siamese Ambassadors sent to Louis XIV., who landed
+here, runs the whole length of the town, ending at the fine iron bridge
+called the Pont Imp�riale, the largest swing-bridge ever constructed. You
+descend by a flight of steps from the Rue de Siam to the lower streets.
+Running along the bay, of considerable extent, and well planted with
+trees, is the magnificent promenade called the Cours d'Ajot, from the name
+of the officer of the Engineers by whom it was laid out and planted a
+century back. Well sheltered by its trees and refreshed by the sea
+breezes, it commands a fine view over the new "port de commerce," and the
+whole extent of the harbour of Brest, which is capable of containing 500
+ships of the line, and is, with the exception of those of Rio Janeiro and
+Constantinople, the largest and most beautiful in the world.
+
+Brest harbour has only one entrance, which is to the west, through a
+narrow channel called Le Goulet, less than a mile in width, and cut into
+two by the Mingant rock. In the year 1796 the 'Republican' was lost here.
+Sailing out of the harbour, with a contrary wind and snow, the pilot
+thought he had passed the Mingant rock, when the ship struck, and went
+down with 800 men on board. Brest Castle in the Middle Ages was a place of
+such strength and importance that John IV., who had four times besieged it
+fruitlessly, when it was under the English dominion, was wont to say "Ce
+n'est duc de Bretagne, qui n'est pas sire de Brest." It had been held by
+Sir Robert Knolles against the army of the King of France under Du
+Guesclin, who was obliged to raise the siege. The donjon was built by King
+Richard II. during the War of Succession. The making Brest an important
+naval station was the thought of Richelieu, and the work of Louis XIV.,
+who built the arsenal.
+
+Next day we made an excursion to see the church of Notre Dame-du-Folgo�t
+or the Fool of the Wood, celebrated in legendary lore: the tale is so old
+and often told, we have some scruples in repeating it.
+
+Towards the middle of the fourteenth century, there lived in the woods of
+Lesneven, a poor idiot boy, called Salaun (Solomon), better known under
+the name of the Fool of the Wood (Folgo�t). He was miserably clad, had no
+bed but the ground; no pillow, but a stone; no roof, but the tree which
+gave him shelter. He went every day to Lesneven to seek his daily bread,
+but he never begged; he uttered the simple words "Ave Maria! Solomon could
+eat bread," and returned with whatever pittance was given him to his tree
+near the fountain, into which he dipped his crusts, and plunged even in
+the depth of winter, for his bath, always repeating the words, "Hail,
+Maria!"  One day a party of marauding soldiers accosted him. In answer to
+their questions, he replied, "I am neither for Blois nor Montfort, I am
+the servant of the Lady Mary." This simple life he led for nearly forty
+years, when at last he fell ill and died, repeating his favourite words
+"Ave Maria." He was found dead near the fountain, and was buried by his
+neighbours. After a time, when the memory of the poor idiot boy had nearly
+passed away, there suddenly sprung up from his grave a white lily with the
+words "Ave Maria" inscribed in letters of gold upon its petals. The news
+of the miracle spread throughout all Brittany, Duke John sent
+commissioners; the grave was opened, and it was found the lily proceeded
+from the mouth of Salaun,--"ceste royale fleur sortait par sa bouche du
+creux de son estomach"--a testimony of the innocence and piety "du plus
+beau mignon de la reine des Cieux." Duke John vowed to erect a church to
+our Lady over the fountain of the poor mendicant, whose faith had been
+thus recognised;(12) and, faithful to his promise, the first stone was
+laid by him in 1366, as a thank-offering for his success the previous year
+at the battle of Auray, which had fixed the crown upon his head. His wife,
+Joan of Navarre, not only made a pilgrimage to the Folgo�t in 1396, but
+also contributed to the building of the church. It was completed by John
+V., about 1419. The Queen-Duchess Anne of Brittany went there in
+pilgrimage after the recovery from illness of Louis XIII. Anne of Austria
+founded six masses at the Folgo�t, in gratitude for the birth of Louis
+XIV., and several popes granted indulgences to those who made pilgrimages
+to this shrine. This church is one of the finest in Brittany. Its colour
+is sombre; it is the oldest monument in Brittany in which the Kersanton
+stone is employed.  This stone is a volcanic rock called hornblende, of
+very fine grain, with minute specks of mica. There is a large quarry near
+St. Pol de L�on; but it is found principally on the west of the harbour of
+Brest, near a village from which it takes its name. Kersanton stone is of
+a dark-green colour, approaching to bronze, gives out a metallic sound
+when struck, and is easily worked in the quarry, in blocks of from twenty
+to forty feet cube, but hardens on exposure to the air. Time has no
+destructive effect on it; the most delicate, lightest, and most ornamental
+sculptures executed in it remain uninjured, while the hardest granites,
+erected at the same time, are friable and decomposed. The Kersanton stone
+cuts glass like a diamond.
+
+The architecture of the Folgo�t is distinguished for the elegance and
+richness of its ornamentation: the softness of the Kersanton stone, when
+fresh taken from the quarry fits it specially for the deeply cut,
+lace-like works of the artists of the flamboyant school, and the church is
+remarkable for the skill with which the productions of the vegetable
+kingdom are represented both within and without. It has no transepts, but
+to the south is a projection formed by the treasure chamber. The modern
+pulpit has a series of medallion bas-reliefs representing the legend of
+Solomon.
+
+The jub�, or roodloft, is a perfect lacework of stone. Above three arches,
+decorated with vine-leaves, is an open-worked gallery of pierced
+quatre-foils surpassing in exuberance of ornament any other known.
+
+To the east are five altars, all of Kersanton stone, most delicately
+sculptured--the under-cutting of the foliage most wonderful. They are in
+the shape of tombs or sarcophagi, the form generally adopted for altars in
+the sixteenth century. Round the "autel des anges," richest of them all,
+is a row of eighteen niches, filled in with the figures of angels, holding
+alternately phylacteries and escutcheons; round the top is a cornice of
+thistle-leaves--on the cut stalk of one hangs a dew-drop perfect to nature.
+
+The high altar is decorated with vine-leaves, birds pecking the grapes,
+and the ermine, with its motto "� ma vie," introduced. The altar of the
+rosary has also a cornice of vine-leaves modelled evidently after the high
+altar.
+
+[Illustration: 24. The Fool's Well, Folgo�t.]
+
+The fine flamboyant rose window at the east of the church resembles that
+of St. Pol de L�on, and below it is the fountain of Salaun. The spring is
+concealed under the high altar, and flows into a basin without, preserved
+by a kind of Gothic porch sculptured with thistle-leaves and crockets, and
+within it, on a bracket, is a delicately chiseled image of the Virgin.
+Some children round the fountain offered us pins, the use of which we did
+not understand. We afterwards learned that it is the custom in Brittany
+for girls to take a pin from their bodice, and throw it into a sacred
+well, to ascertain, by its manner of sinking, when they would be married.
+If the pin falls head foremost, then there is no present hope of
+matrimony, but if the point goes first, it is a sure sign of being married
+that year.
+
+On the new year, in some parts of Brittany, pieces of bread-and-butter are
+thrown into the fountains, and from the way in which they swim the future
+is foretold. If the buttered side turns under, it forebodes death; if two
+pieces adhere together, it is a sign of sickness; and if the piece floats,
+it is an assurance of long life and happiness.
+
+The veneration for springs and healing wells is of very ancient date, and
+was prohibited by early councils of the Church; but the worship of that
+element from which suffering humanity seeks for relief in all its ailments
+has passed through succeeding creeds, and that which was held sacred a
+thousand years back is still the object of reverence and affection.
+
+Nor is the sculpture outside the church less remarkable than the interior.
+The west door, now fallen to decay, has an arch with double entrance
+separated by a column containing a b�nitier. A wreath of curled leaves
+runs round the arch, and on a bracket of thistle-leaves formerly stood a
+statue of John V.
+
+The north side has little ornament. The great richness is in the south,
+where is the fine porch of Bishop Alain de la Rue, who consecrated the
+building, and more splendid still, is, at the angle formed by the
+projecting sacristy facing the west, the Porch of the Apostles. The twelve
+Apostles are ranged on each side, under rich canopies; the whole porch one
+mass of floral decoration, vine-leaves and mallows, interspersed with
+dragons, birds, and insects. On the right of the porch is a crouching
+figure with a label inscribed: "Bn soiez venz,"--"Bien soiez venuz" or
+"Soyez les bien venus"--an invitation to the faithful to enter into the
+church. On the lintel of the two doors are ermines passant, and the motto
+of the Dukes of Brittany, "� ma vie," and towards the south are the
+remains of a whole cornice of ermines, running through the rings of a long
+scroll inscribed with "� ma vie." This motto was first taken by Duke John
+IV. (who instituted the order of the Ermine) to imply that he had
+conquered Brittany, and would maintain it, even at the cost of his life,
+"� ma vie."(13)
+
+The collar consisted of a double chain, in each of which were four
+ermines, and two more hung suspended from two chains, surmounted by
+coronets. The motto "� ma vie" was placed round each of these ten ermines.
+The P�re Lobineau quotes a history of Duke John, in which the order is
+thus spoken of:--
+
+
+    "Lors fit mander tous les Pr�lats,
+    Abb�s et Clercs de tous Estats,
+    Barons, Chevaliers, Escuyers,
+    Qui tous portoient nouveaux Colliers
+    De moult bel port et belle guise;
+    Et �toit nouvelle D�vise
+    De deux Rolets brunis et beaux,
+    Coupl�s ensemble de deux fermeaux;
+    Et au dessus �toit l'Ermine
+    En figure et en couleur fine,
+    En deux Cedules avoit escript
+    _� ma vie_, comme j'ai dit;
+    L'un mot est blanc, l'autre noir,
+    Il est certain, tien, pour le voir."
+
+
+In the churchyard is a cross erected by Cardinal de Co�tivy (died 1474),
+who is represented kneeling at the foot; it is said to be the work of
+Michel Colomb, sculptor of the celebrated monument raised by Queen Anne of
+Brittany to her parents, now in the Cathedral at Nantes. Next day, we went
+to Le Conquet, returning by St. Mathieu. We crossed the swing-bridge to
+the suburb Recouvrance, so called from the chapel of our Lady, to whom
+shipwrecked mariners addressed their petitions to recover (recouvrir)
+their property. On our left we saw the islet rock of Bertheaume, about 200
+feet high, distant from the coast 150. Until lately, the communication
+with the mainland was by means of a kind of cradle drawn on two cables,
+about nine m�tres in circumference.
+
+Le Conquet(14) is a little seaport built on the slope of a steep hill.
+Formerly it was of some importance, and a great resort of pirates. Sir
+Walter Manny took the town for the Countess of Montfort, during the war of
+the two Jeannes, and it was attacked by the fleets of Henry VIII. and his
+daughter Mary. Opposite is a beautiful beach, called the Blancs Sablons,
+accessible at low water by walking across the harbour. Here is the point
+of communication with the island of Ou�ssant, about seventeen miles
+distant, by means of a steamer, weather permitting, as the Chenal du Four,
+which separates this group of islands from the continent, is covered with
+rocks and is very dangerous in rough weather. Its men are all seamen or
+fishermen, the women perform the agricultural labour. They bring in their
+produce to Brest at the monthly fairs, and are not so cut off from the
+world as Gresset describes them:--
+
+
+    "Sous un ciel toujours rigoureux
+    Au sein des flots imp�tueux,
+    Non loin de l'Armorique plage
+    Habitacle mar�cageux,
+    Moiti� peupl�, moiti� sauvage,
+    Dont les habitants malheureux
+    Separ�s du reste du monde,
+    Semblent ne conno�tre l'onde
+    Et n'�tre connus que des cieux."
+                    GRESSET.--_Car�me impromptu._
+
+
+[Illustration: 25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.]
+
+We now reached the Abbey of St. Mathieu, situated on the extreme point of
+Brittany and of France, on the top of a promontory, well called Finist�re.
+Here in the sixth century was built a monastery in honour of St. Matthew
+the Evangelist, whose head had been stolen in Egypt by some Breton
+navigators, and been brought to land at this point, which long bore the
+name of "St. Mathieu de fin de terre" (Finist�re). In the twelfth century
+the monastery was converted into a Benedictine abbey, which is a beautiful
+example of the Early English style. The formidable rocks at its feet are
+called Les Moines. The monks of St. Mathieu kept a beacon for the safety
+of mariners on these dangerous shores. The modern lighthouse quite masks
+the sight of the abbey, and is a great disfigurement to the view, which,
+in other respects, is most grand; the imposing granite ruins of the abbey
+church on the very edge of these weather-beaten cliffs, worn and torn by
+the ocean with its unwearied waves; on the right, the reefs of the Passage
+du Four, which appear to unite the islands of Ou�ssant and its satellites
+to St. Mathieu; on the left the elongated point of the Bec du Raz, which
+no one, according to the Bretons, ever passed without grief and suffering.
+In sight of Saint Mathieu, the English in 1504, with eighty ships,
+attacked Herv� de Porzmoguer, a Breton captain, with only twenty. His own
+ship the 'Cordeli�re,' which had been built and fitted out by Anne of
+Bretagne, at her own expense, took fire; it held 1200 troops besides the
+ship's company. Porzmoguer grappled the 'Cordeli�re' to the ship of the
+English admiral, the 'Great Harry;' and both vessels, driven by the
+north-west wind to the entrance of the Goulet, were burned together, and
+above 2000 men perished in the two ships. Porzmoguer mounted the mast
+followed by the raging flames, and cast himself from the main-top, in full
+armour, into the sea.
+
+In 1597, the fleet sent by Philip II. to take possession of Brittany for
+Spain was dispersed in a storm off Point St. Mathieu, and, out of a
+hundred and twenty ships, scarcely one remained.
+
+On our way home, we passed a little town called La Trinit�, from three
+springs all issuing from the same fountain, at which washerwomen with
+their wooden bats were hard at work, beating the clothes to rags on the
+stones.
+
+[Illustration: 26. Peasant Girl of Ou�ssant.]
+
+Next day was the monthly fair at Brest, which brought in many of the
+country people in their picturesque costumes. Most conspicuous among them
+were the peasants of Ou�ssant, last type of the Celtic women, in their
+singularly Italian-looking head-dress, their hair streaming over their
+shoulders; and the Plougastel men, in red caps, with coats and trowsers of
+white flannel.
+
+Most of the market-women were furnished with enormous umbrellas, red,
+blue, and green. In this rainy province, they are indispensable, and the
+acquisition of an umbrella is a great object of ambition to the Breton
+peasant.
+
+We left Brest by the steamer for Pont Launay and Ch�teaulin, a four hours'
+sail in the harbour of Brest. On the right we passed the Point des
+Espagnols, where Frobisher, sent by Queen Elizabeth to the assistance of
+Henry IV., received his death wound. Leaving on our left Plougastel, where
+we were unable to visit the celebrated calvary, we passed near the "Anse
+du Fret," whence Joan of Navarre, then widow of Duke John IV., sailed to
+England to marry Henry of Lancaster, 1403. Henry, when Earl of Derby, had
+visited Nantes to ask the assistance of his uncle in returning to England,
+and Joan had favoured his expedition, but Duke John died the same year
+(1399). When Queen Dowager of England, she saw the children of her two
+husbands arrayed against each other, and her son Arthur, who had been
+invested by King Henry IV. with the Earldom of Richmond, made prisoner at
+Agincourt by his half-brother King Henry V., who confined him in the
+Tower, and afterwards in Fotheringay Castle. Joan received hard treatment
+from her stepson. Accused of being a sorceress--a reputation she inherited
+from her father, Charles the Bad of Navarre--Henry caused her to be
+confined in Leeds and Pevensey castles, and deprived her of her property.
+It was only on his approaching death that he restored her to liberty. She
+retired to Havering Bower in Essex, where her grandson, the unfortunate
+Gilles de Bretagne, was reared and educated with Henry VI. She died in
+1437, and the memory of "Joan the witch queen" was long held in awe by the
+people of Havering Bower.
+
+[Illustration: 27. Peasant Girl, Ch�teaulin.]
+
+On the left is the hamlet of Kersanton, which gives its name to the stone
+so called. At the entrance of the Aulne,(15) to the right, we passed the
+ruins of the abbey of Land�venec, the most ancient monastic establishment
+in Brittany. At Pont Launay an omnibus took us to the railway station at
+Ch�teaulin, celebrated for its slate quarries, a drive of three quarters
+of an hour. From here we proceeded by rail to Quimper, capital of
+Cornouaille. The district of Cornouaille--Cornu-Galli�, expressing its
+position at the horn or extremity of France--is most varied in character.
+The part on the north is enclosed between the two chains of mountains,
+which, running nearly parallel with each other, traverse the department of
+Finist�re, the Men�-Arr�, and the Montagnes Noires. A single chain passes
+through the C�tes-du-Nord, and forks off, at the edge of the department,
+near Callac, whence the northern range, the Men�-Arr�, runs westwards to
+Faou harbour; while the Montagnes Noires incline to the south-west, and
+reach the sea near Crozon. The country between these chains is dreary and
+bare--barren plains and black mountains; to the south it is cultivated and
+productive. The stormy rock-bound coast is wild and desolate. One-third of
+the department consists of landes, marshes, and sandy shores (_gr�ves_).
+The people are the Irish of Brittany. Their wants are restricted to a tub
+of salted pork and a provision of cider, with rye, or black corn, to make
+their "galette." They are simple in their manners, kind to the poor, and
+enduring of suffering. Respect for the misfortunes of others, and patience
+under their own, is one of the Breton characteristics.
+
+In the days of Conan Meriadec there lived a holy man, called Corentin, who
+retired to a solitude for prayer and meditation, near a fountain in a
+forest. Every morning a little fish came to him from the fountain; he cut
+a piece off it for his daily pittance and threw it again into the water,
+and in an instant the fish became whole. The miracle was repeated every
+morning. One day King Gradlon, who held his court at "Kemper," was in the
+forest near the hermitage of St. Corentin, with some of his suite, and
+asked him if he could give him something to eat. The saint immediately ran
+to his fountain and called his little fish, cut off a piece, which he gave
+to the ma�tre d'h�tel to prepare for the king and his attendants. The chef
+laughed when he took the slice; but, to the surprise of everybody, the
+fish multiplied so as to completely satisfy the hunger of the king and his
+party. Gradlon threw himself on his knees at the feet of St. Corentin, and
+gave him the forest, with a "maison de plaisance," which St. Corentin
+converted into a monastery. The king afterwards erected Quimper into a
+bishopric, to which he nominated St. Corentin:--
+
+
+    "Voici dans le fond la ville de Kemper,
+    Asise au confluent de l'Oded et du Ster.
+    Comme sa cath�drale, aux deux tours dentel�es,
+    S'�l�ve noblement du milieu des vall�es,
+    O perle de l'Oded, fille du roi Grallon,
+    Qui de saint Corentin portes aussi le nom,
+    Rejouis-toi, Kemper, dans tes vielles murailles!
+    Vois avec quelle ardeur, � reine de Cornouailles,
+    Tes fils de tous les points de l'antique �v�ch�,
+    P�cheurs et montagnards, viennent � ton march�!
+    Cornouillais! en passant pr�s de sa basilique,
+    Du bon saint Corentin adorez la relique.
+    Que tous ceux d'Elliant et des m�mes chemins
+    Boivent � sa fontaine et s'y lavent les mains;
+    Non pas les L�onards, eux de qui les anc�tres,
+    Voici quelque mille ans, hommes jaloux et tra�tres,
+    Vol�rent le poisson dont notre Corentin
+    Coupait pour se nourrir un pen chaque matin,
+    Et qui chaque matin, � pieuse merveille!
+    Nageait dans sa fontaine aussi frais que la veille:
+    Eh bien! les L�onards vol�rent ce poisson,
+    Mais Kemper n'oublie jamais leur trahison;
+    Sans jouir de leur crime, ils en portent la peine,
+    Et toujours le poisson nage dans la fontaine."
+                    _Les Bretons_--BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Quimper, or Quimper-Corentin, is prettily situated at the junction of the
+rivers Odet and Stheire; its Breton name, Kemper, signifying confluence.
+It was long called Kemper-Odet. On the opposite side of the river the
+hills, consisting of a mass of rocks, covered with trees, rise to some
+height, and are ascended by well-kept walks. The river runs straight
+through the town, like a canal, edged by stone quays and crossed by iron
+bridges, with avenues of trees on each side. Trout can be seen in the
+sparkling stream; and we watched a boy with a hook at the end of a reel of
+black silk, hanging over the bridge, with a piece of kneaded bread for
+bait. With this simple tackle he contrived to hook a trout of tolerable
+size, and let it run out the length of his silk line till he had tired it
+out and landed it. The scenery of the river below Quimper, flowing through
+a bed of granite blocks, is, we were told, lovely, but we had no time to
+visit it further down. The view from the top of the wood-covered heights
+on the opposite side is very extensive, looking down upon the town, with
+its cathedral towers rising above, the promenade, and the course of the
+river. At the end of the town there is a manufactory of coarse pottery;
+but formerly it produced ware of a finer quality.
+
+The beautiful cathedral is the largest of the four episcopal churches of
+Lower Brittany (Vannes, St. Pol, Quimper, and Tr�guier), and was
+principally built in the fifteenth century. On the platform over the
+finely sculptured porch, rich in foliage like the Folgo�t, placed between
+the two towers, is the equestrian statue of King Gradlon, to whom is
+attributed the introduction of the vine into Brittany. The statue was
+decapitated in 1793, but restored ten years back. On St. Cecilia's day
+companies of musicians used to mount on the platform. While they sang a
+hymn in praise of King Gradlon, one of the choristers, provided with a
+flagon of wine, a napkin, and golden hanap, mounted on the crupper of King
+Gradlon's horse, poured out a cup of wine, which he offered ceremoniously
+to the lips of the statue and then drank himself, carefully wiped with his
+napkin the moustachios of the king, placed a branch of laurel in his hand,
+and then threw down the hanap in the midst of the crowd below, in honour
+of the first planter of the grape in Brittany. To whoever caught the cup
+before it fell, and presented it uninjured to the Chapter, was adjudged a
+prize of two hundred crowns.
+
+The two spires of the cathedral are modern, and were built by an annual
+subscription of a sou for five years, called the "sou du St. Corentin:"
+more than 600_l._ was thus raised. They have only been lately finished.
+
+[Illustration: 28. Beggar. Quimper.]
+
+The men about Quimper all wear the national costume--enormous bragou-bras,
+or breeches of a kind of white sail-cloth, a broad-brimmed felt hat, long
+hair, falling over the shoulders, wooden shoes, and a broad belt with
+metal buckle. Their woollen jacket and waistcoat are edged with gay
+colours, and have sometimes the itinerant tailor's name and the date of
+the making of the garment, embroidered in wool upon the breast. On gala
+days brown or blue cloth bragous are worn, tied with coloured ribbons at
+the knees, black leather gaiters with buttons, and the sabots are replaced
+by leather shoes and costly silver buckles. The national costume is more
+preserved in Cornouaille than in the other parts of Brittany.  The pen bas
+or cudgel, with a large knob, like the Irish shillelah, is always ready at
+hand:--
+
+
+    "Comme une conque immense ouverte au bord des eaux,
+    En Cornouaille est un port, il y vient cent bateaux.
+    Un sable jaune et fin couvre ses c�tes plates,
+    Mais un infect amas de rogues, de morgates,
+    D'ossements de poissons sur le rivage �pars,
+    La saumure qui filtre entre ses deux remparts,
+    Soul�vent tous les sens quand cette odeur saline
+    Arrive au voyageur qui tourne la colline,
+    Laissant derri�re lui les taillis de Melven,
+    La belle lande d'or qui parfume Aven,
+    Et ces mouvants aspects de plaines, de montagnes
+    Que d�roulent sans fin nos sauvages campagnes.
+    Plus de batteurs de seigle ici, plus de faucheurs,
+    Mais des canots charg�s de mousses, de p�cheurs,
+    Partant et revenant avec chaque mar�e,
+    Et sur les quais du pont versant � leur rentr�e,
+    Des sardines en tas, des congres, des merlus,
+    Des homards cuirass�s, de gros crabes velus;
+    Et, du fond des paniers, mille genres �normes,
+    De toutes les couleurs et de toutes les formes,
+    Avec leur oeil vitreux et leur museau b�ant,
+    Tous enfants monstrueux du grand monstre Oc�an.
+    Aussit�t le pressier les s�che, les empile,
+    Et quand leur grasse chair a degorg� son huile,
+    De Nantes � Morlaix cherchant les acheteurs,
+    On voit bondir sur mer les hardis caboteurs.""
+                    _Les Bretons_--BRIZEUX.
+
+
+[Illustration: 29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.]
+
+Thus the Breton poet describes Concarneau, a little fortified town, which
+has been called the St. Malo of Cornouaille, and is celebrated for its
+sardine fishery. The road lay through a wooded country, with steep hills
+and valleys, intersected by streams: on the right a view of the Bay of La
+For�t, where extensive oyster-culture is going on. After a tedious journey
+with miserable horses, we reached Concarneau at nine, a distance of little
+more than thirteen miles, having set off a few minutes after four.
+Concarneau proper is on a rocky island, surrounded by fortifications, with
+eight or nine towers and thick walls, and communicating with the mainland
+by means of a drawbridge. This is called the "Ville Close." It consists of
+only one street. When Duke John IV. embarked from here for England, he
+left Sir Robert Knollys governor of the duchy. The constable Du Guesclin,
+after the surrender of Hennebont and Quimperl�, took Concarneau by storm
+and slew all the English garrison, except the captain, who received
+quarter.
+
+Opposite the island is the faubourg Sainte Croix, which is more populous
+than the Ville Close, and where all the business of the place is carried
+on. The sardine fishery, from June to November, occupies two-thirds of the
+population. From three to four hundred vessels are employed with five men
+to each boat. Calm weather is most favourable for fishing. The sardines
+are taken in large seine nets, one side floating with corks on the surface
+of the water, the other falling vertically. The sardines, attracted by the
+bait, try to force themselves through the meshes of the net, and are
+caught by their gills. The bait used is called "rogue:" the best is
+composed of the roe of the cod-fish, pounded and steeped in salt water for
+several days; sometimes the roe and flesh of the mackerel is used. Rogue
+is made in Norway and Denmark, but principally at Drontheim, and is very
+expensive, costing about sixpence the lb.; hence an inferior bait is
+substituted, composed of shrimps and other small crustacea, with fish
+salted, and the heads of anchovies, all pounded and putrified together.
+But this kind of decomposed bait is forbidden by the fishery laws. The
+employment of it accounts for the rareness of good sardines, as the
+remaining of such a substance in the body of the animal cannot fail of
+corrupting it. It is a pretty sight to behold the little fleet employed in
+the sardine fishery return in the evening, laden with the results of the
+day's work. The fish, when landed, are counted out into baskets, shaken in
+the water, and taken up to one of the curing-houses: of these there are
+about sixty in Concarneau. In the first shed we saw above fifty women
+employed in taking off their heads--"det�ter" it is called--an operation
+they effect with great dexterity. With one cut at the back of the neck the
+head is separated and the fish "�ventr�" at the same time.
+
+The sardines are next placed in little wire trays, with divisions like a
+double gridiron, and fried or dipped in boiling oil, an operation
+principally performed by the women of Pont l'Abb�, who are supposed, like
+the Germans of our baking and sugar-refining houses, to be peculiarly
+constituted to resist heat. The gridirons are then hung up to drain. The
+sardines are next packed in tin boxes, cold oil poured over them, and the
+boxes soldered down. From 800 to 900 boxes are placed in a boiler and
+boiled for half an hour to test the boxes, and those which leak are put
+aside. They are of English tin, and the making of them is the winter's
+occupation. Finally, the boxes are stamped with the name of the
+establishment, and packed in deal cases for exportation. The sardine is a
+very delicate fish, and easily decays. It is only taken out of the net
+with a rake (_raquette_); in summer, numbers are spoiled from being heaped
+in the boats, and at whatever hour the boats come in the fish go through
+the whole process of curing, as they will not keep till the next day.
+Concarneau exports from 15,000 to 20,000 barrels of sardines annually.
+Only a part are "anchoit�e," that is, preserved like the anchovies of the
+Mediterranean, the others are salted in casks; and quantities, only
+slightly salted, are packed in baskets, to be sent to the provincial
+markets. It is estimated that twelve hundred million fish have been caught
+this year. The sardine fishery extends along the whole western coast of
+Brittany from Douarnenez to the Loire.
+
+One of the curiosities of Concarneau is its aquarium, under the direction
+of M. Guillon. It consists of six cisterns, made by the blasting of the
+solid rock, and comprising an area of large extent, within a walled
+enclosure. In these cisterns the water is renewed at each turn of the tide
+through narrow openings in the wall. Three of these reservoirs are
+reserved for fish, the others for crustacea--lobsters and langoustes. Of
+these they keep from 10,000 to 15,000 at a time, and send them off daily,
+when fattened, to Paris and the principal markets of France. It was
+curious to see the dread shown by the common lobster to the langouste.
+They all were adhering to the sides of the reservoirs as if afraid to
+encounter their more powerful companions. Quantities of turbot, also
+reared for sale, were in one of the cisterns, darting with the greatest
+rapidity in the water when the keeper threw in pieces of sardines for them
+to eat. At the end of these cisterns is a building, with every arrangement
+for the culture of fishes--rows of little troughs, and other vessels, to
+contain them. Many of the fish are so tame, they came immediately to the
+keeper on his making a noise in the water with his fingers. Here are fish
+of every description, and naturalists have every facility of studying
+their habits. Among others, we saw the graceful little sea-horse or
+hippocampus, a native of the seas of Brittany as well as of the
+Mediterranean.
+
+[Illustration: 30. Dolmen. Tr�gunc.]
+
+From Concarneau to Quimperl� is a distance of above eighteen miles. The
+road runs near the sea, over a large tract of land covered with furze
+(ajonc), which, in Brittany, grows from five to six feet high, forming a
+solid impenetrable mass. Huge blocks of granite are scattered about in
+every direction, jutting out from among the furze--menhirs, cromlechs, and
+dolmens--a perfect wilderness of Celtic remains. We drove over an extent of
+several miles of furze-covered hills and heathy land. Before we reached
+the village of Tr�gunc we stopped to see a large dolmen on the side of the
+road, and further to the right a rocking-stone, twelve feet long and nine
+feet thick, standing about fifteen feet from the ground, the second
+largest in Brittany. It is poised by a little projection, like an inverted
+cone, upon another rock lying half-buried in the ground. The upper block
+can easily be set in motion by the hand. It is called by the country
+people "La pierre aux maris tromp�s," and was formerly consulted by
+husbands to test the fidelity of their wives. Even now the partner of a
+faithless wife is said to be incapable of giving to the stone the rocking
+motion it so easily receives from another.
+
+[Illustration: 31. Rocking Stone. Tr�gunc.]
+
+On the left we passed the majestic ruins of the castle of Rust�phan,
+_i. e._ Run, mound, of Stephen, having been built by Stephen Count of
+Penthi�vre at the beginning of the twelfth century. It belonged in the
+thirteenth to Blanche of Castile, the mother of St. Louis. The present
+edifice dates from the fifteenth. One of the sides remaining has a
+cylindrical tower with pinnacled doorway, and the windows have stone
+mullions.
+
+[Illustration: 32. Ch�teau of Rust�phan.]
+
+Pursuing our road through blocks of granite, we descended into the valley
+of Pontaven, the town of millers, according to the old saying--
+
+
+    "Pont Aven, ville de renom;
+    Quatorze moulins, deux maisons;"
+
+
+a little port built upon rocks, at the foot of two elevated mountains,
+over which are scattered masses of granite boulders, obstructing the
+course of the river which bounds over them. The banks are lined with woody
+slopes; wooden bridges cross the river at intervals; mills are established
+on the ledges of the rocks on its sides; and the noise of the mills, with
+that of the sparkling river tumbling through the rocks in waterfalls, keep
+up a perpetual din. Pontaven is celebrated for the quantity of its salmon:
+so much is taken, that it used to be said that the millers fattened their
+pigs upon this fish, which was literally true, as they took the small
+salmon, called gl�sils, in nets (_poches_) for that purpose. Salmon now is
+very dear. At the mouth of the Pontaven river was a castle, whose
+proprietor had the privilege of firing upon the fishing-boats which
+returned up the river without giving to the castellan their finest fish,
+which his steward went down to select. Pontaven is seven and a half miles
+from Bannalec, the nearest railway station. After remaining a few hours we
+drove on to Quimperl�--in Breton, Kemper (confluence) Ell�--so called,
+because it is at the confluence of two rivers, the Elle and Isole:--
+
+
+    "Vous reverrai-je encore, � fleuve de l'Ell�,
+    Vous, Iz�le, o� mon coeur est toujours rappell�!
+    Les eaux sombres de l'Ell�, claire ceux de l'Iz�le;
+    De ces bords enchant�s je dirais chaque saule."
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Quimperl� is a great resort for fishing, the Quimperl� salmon and trout
+being renowned throughout Brittany, and even at Paris. This town is
+beautifully situated, surrounded by high hills, in a valley, watered by
+these bright rivers, the hills covered with gardens, orchards, the
+Ursuline, Capucine, and other convents, and crowned by the steeples of the
+Gothic church of St. Michael. Its principal building is the church of St.
+Croix, formerly that of a Benedictine abbey, celebrated for its riches.
+The island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer then belonged to it. It is a most singular
+edifice, built in the eleventh century, after the model of the church of
+the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. In 1862 it fell down, but is at present
+in course of restoration, after its original plan. The old abbey buildings
+are now occupied by the Prefecture. We were given permission to pass
+through the convent garden--the workmen and building materials having
+blocked up the other entrances--to see the crypt in which is the tomb of
+Saint Gurlo�s, first abbot of Quimperl�. His effigy, with crosier in hand,
+his feet resting on a dragon, lies upon a monument, about three feet high,
+with an opening in the lower part. The saint--Saint Urlose, as the Bretons
+call him--is invoked principally for the gout, and persons so afflicted
+crawl through the hole under the tomb, where, suspended by chains, is an
+iron hook. They twist a lock of their hair round this hook, and tear it
+off with violence, hoping to propitiate the saint by this
+mortification--evidently a remnant of heathen times, when hair was
+sacrificed to deities or to the memory of departed friends.
+
+At Quimperl� was buried John de Montfort, rival of Charles of Blois for
+the ducal crown. Sent to Paris under a safe-conduct by the Dauphin John,
+Philip of Valois had him shut up in the Louvre, whence he escaped, after a
+captivity of three years, to England. Edward III. espoused his cause and
+granted him some troops. After an unsuccessful attack upon Quimper, De
+Montfort died (1345) at Hennebont, and was buried in the church of the
+Dominicans at Quimperl�. He appointed Edward III. guardian of his son, and
+Edward immediately occupied Quimperl� and caused money to be struck in his
+name. Lord Lewis of Spain, on the side of Charles of Blois, made a descent
+upon Quimperl� at the head of 6000 men, and pillaged the whole country. On
+the news reaching Sir Walter Manny, he hastened to meet the enemy, took
+possession of their fleet, and made such carnage of the soldiers, that
+they were all killed or taken prisoners, and Lewis of Spain escaped with
+difficulty. The country about Quimperl� is beautiful--wood and water in
+every direction. The department of Finist�re is traversed by three hundred
+streams, and has an extent of nearly four hundred miles of coast. We were
+advised to go and see the rood-screen of the chapel of Rosgrand, but had
+no time. We visited the ruins of the church of St. Columban. Above a
+round-arched doorway is a beautiful flamboyant window, between two
+canopied niches. We next walked up to the Place near St. Michel, where a
+cattle-market was being held. The Breton peasants, with their long shaggy
+uncombed hair hanging round their shoulders--they comb and wash only on
+f�te days--their dirty canvas bragou bras, patched coats, and sabots with
+tufts of straw crammed in, looked more dirty than it is possible to
+imagine. Cleanliness is the last of the Breton virtues. The market and the
+fair are the two great events of the country, and people flock from great
+distances to sell their merchandise. But of all extraordinary animals is
+the Breton pig, as tall as a donkey; a lean, long-necked, ragged, bristly,
+savage-looking beast, as ill kept as its master, and it runs like a
+greyhound when approached. The Breton cow is very small, small as the
+Kerry cows of Ireland, very pretty and very productive. The Breton butter
+is proverbially good, and is given out most liberally, in lumps as big as
+loaves, at the tables-d'h�te. It is brought to market in jars which the
+women carry upon their heads. It is to the Queen-Duchess that Brittany,
+and indeed all France, owes the privilege of eating butter in Lent.  It
+was forbidden as animal food by the laws of the Church, and oil, a
+vegetable production, ordered as a substitute.  In 1491, Anne solicited of
+Rome, for herself and household, permission to eat butter on fast-days,
+alleging, as a plea, that Brittany did not produce oil. Encouraged by this
+favour, Brittany obtained the same indulgence, and it was acquired
+successively by the other provinces of France; but all are originally
+indebted for the privilege to the good Queen-Duchess Anne.
+
+Next day, leaving the department of Finist�re, we entered that of
+Morbihan, and went by rail to Lorient on the river Scorff, here joined by
+the Blavet. It was formerly the seat of the French East India Company; it
+is now one of the five military ports of France and the residence of a
+maritime Prefect. In the Place Bisson is the statue of a young officer of
+the French navy, a native of Guemen�-sur-Scorff (Morbihan). When
+commanding, in 1827, a brig in the Greek Archipelago, he was attacked by
+two pirate vessels. Nine out of his fifteen men were killed and himself
+wounded; the enemy crowded on the deck. Desiring the survivors of his crew
+to jump overboard, "Now," cried he to the pilot, "is the moment for
+revenge!" and, setting fire to the powder-magazine, he blew up himself,
+his ship, and the pirates who had boarded her. Next morning the bodies of
+seventy Greeks lay on the sea-shore, showing the success of his
+self-devotion. The pilot, who, with four sailors, was saved, received the
+decoration of the Legion of Honour. On the pedestal of Bisson's statue is
+an inscription, concluding with these words: "Mort en h�ros, pour son roi
+et sa patrie, ses amis le pleurent, la France le regrette, et ses fr�res
+d'armes envient son sort."
+
+From here we proceeded to Hennebont (Breton, "old bridge"), famous, in the
+War of Succession, for its heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, during the
+captivity of her husband, Jean de Montfort, who had been taken prisoner at
+Nantes and carried off to Paris. Jeanne, who, as Froissart says, had the
+courage of a man and the heart of a lion, placed herself at the head of
+his party. Like another Maria Theresa, she presented herself before the
+Breton lords, with her infant son in her arms, and received their oaths of
+allegiance. She then joined in the defence of Hennebont, which was
+invested by Charles of Blois. Clothed in armour and mounted on a
+war-horse, she galloped up and down the streets, encouraging the
+inhabitants. She ordered the ladies of her suite and other women of the
+place to cut short their "keytels," carry the stones to the ramparts, and
+transport pots of quick-lime to throw down upon the enemy. At the head of
+300 horsemen, the Countess, who rode better than any squire, sallied out
+of the town, attacked and burnt the enemy's camp, retreated to Auray, and,
+a few days after, re-entered Hennebont, with banners flying and trumpets
+sounding. But the blockade was so close that provisions were wanting, and
+the garrison compelled her to agree to a capitulation, unless within three
+days assistance arrived from England. The time was on the point of
+expiring, and a herald had approached the gate of the city to receive the
+keys in the name of Charles of Blois, when the Countess, from her window,
+perceived at sunrise the English fleet entering the port in full sail. She
+exclaimed, "We are saved!" The siege was raised, and the Countess, says
+Froissart, kissed Sir Walter Manny and all his companions, one after the
+other, two or three times, like a noble and valiant dame. "Better,"
+observed Charles, when he heard the news, "that Jeanne, instead of her
+lord, had been shut up in the Louvre." He left the carrying on of the
+siege to Lewis of Spain, and proceeded to Vannes and Auray. Some fragments
+of walls are all that remain of Jeanne de Montfort's castle, which was
+situated on a height on the other side of the river in the "Vieille
+ville." The town on the left bank of the Blavet is called the "Ville
+neuve" and the "Ville close," being surrounded by walls. Large vessels
+ascend the Blavet to Hennebont. It is traversed by a light and elegant
+railway viaduct of twelve arches. We saw on the quay a quantity of red
+iron-ore from Bilbao.
+
+Hennebont is a very pretty town; the principal building is the church of
+Notre Dame-de-Paradis, of the sixteenth century, with a fine square stone
+tower, surmounted by a beautiful spire, and a tall porch, forming one side
+of the tower. This handsome church has lately been restored. The scenery
+about the Blavet is very pretty--the banks wooded, and fertile fields. We
+took a boat and rowed up the river, passing the ruined Abbaye de la Joie,
+where a hideous ch�teau has been built. This was a Cistercian convent,
+founded in the thirteenth century by Blanche of Navarre, wife of Duke John
+I. (_le Roux_). The chapel of Notre Dame-de-Paradis formerly belonged to
+the convent; but when the parish church was demolished, the Abbey ceded
+this chapel to the town, reserving the privilege of a separate seat for
+the Abbess, who, on the Sunday after St. John's day, had her crosier
+carried before her in state by one of her vassals at high mass and
+vespers.
+
+From Hennebont we went by rail to Auray, and established ourselves for
+some time in the Pavillon d'en Haut, a most comfortable hotel. Auray is
+situated on the slope of a hill, the streets narrow and steep.
+
+Our first drive was to Ste. Anne d'Auray, one of the most famous places of
+pilgrimage in Brittany, on account of its miraculous well and church. It
+has been called the Mecca of Brittany. Here, according to the legend in
+the seventeenth century, Ste. Anne appeared to a countryman, and directed
+him to dig in a certain field, where he would find her image, and to build
+a chapel there. Guided by a miraculous light, Nicolazic discovered the
+statue, and erected a chapel on the site.
+
+[Illustration: 33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray.]
+
+The spring where Ste. Anne first appeared is now enclosed in a large basin
+of cut stone. Near it is the church, in course of reconstruction. It
+stands in a court surrounded by covered galleries for the shelter of the
+pilgrims. Two flights of steps, called the Scala Sancta (after that of St.
+John Lateran), lead to a platform over the three entrance gates, upon
+which is an altar surmounted by a cupola, where mass can be heard by
+20,000 persons. The steps are ascended by the pilgrims barefooted, as they
+do at Rome. The f�te of Ste. Anne is celebrated on the 26th of July, when
+pilgrims arrive from all parts of Brittany to visit the miraculous statue,
+to ascend the holy staircase, and to drink or wash in the sacred fountain.
+It was a f�te day when we visited Ste. Anne. There was a large assemblage
+of people, and booths were erected round the court, where were sold
+rosaries and the wire brooches, with scarlet and blue tufts of worsted,
+called _�pinglettes_, worn by the Bretons in their hats as a token of
+their having made a pilgrimage. We saw exhibited the photograph of a young
+lady, said to have lately recovered from paralysis after bathing in the
+holy well. So world-wide is the fame of Ste. Anne d'Auray that a traveller
+mentions having seen at her shrine an embroidered altar-cloth of Irish
+damask, with "Irlande: Reconnaissance � Sainte Anne, 1850," woven into the
+pattern. The convent, with its enclosure, the Scala Sancta, fountain, and
+miraculous bush, all date from the seventeenth century. There is a railway
+station for Ste. Anne, within two miles of the church.
+
+Returning to Auray, we went to the Chartreuse, which owes its origin to
+the chapel of Saint Michel-du-Champ founded (1382) by John de Montfort,
+afterwards Duke John IV., on the spot where, in 1364, he gained the battle
+of Auray, which obtained for him the duchy of Brittany. The chapel is
+close to the railway station. In the fifteenth century it was given to the
+Chartreux, and became a monastery of the order which existed until the
+Revolution. The present church was built at the end of the reign of Louis
+XV.
+
+The battle was fought on the marshy plain by the side of the muddy river
+Alr�e. It is fully described by Froissart. In the two armies were
+assembled all the chivalry of England, France and Brittany. The
+Breton-English were commanded by Sir John Chandos; the French, by Du
+Guesclin; with de Montfort were also Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh
+Calverley and Olivier de Clisson; with Charles of Blois, Du Guesclin, the
+Comte d'Auxerre, the Viscomtes of Rohan and Tournemine, and Charles de
+Dinan. At the moment of the battle, the white greyhound of Charles of
+Blois deserted his master and ran to his rival de Montfort, who was on
+horseback, and caressed him, standing on his hind paws. De Montfort
+recognised the dog by his collar, ornamented with the arms of Brittany,
+and this incident passed through his army as a favourable omen. The dog
+was known to have been the gift of a witch to Duke John the Good, who
+bequeathed it to his niece Jeanne, wife of Charles of Blois.
+
+Both armies heard mass, confessed themselves, and received the Communion
+before they opened the battle. The war cry of Charles was, "In the name of
+God and St. Ives," Montfort repeated the motto of his family, "Malo mori
+quam foedari" (better to die than be sullied), and his troops advanced to
+the onset to the cry of "Malo." Both chiefs wore the ermines emblazoned on
+their armour and their standards; and relatives and friends were ranged in
+battle array against each other. Following the tactics which had been
+successful at Cressy and Poitiers, Chandos quietly awaited the impetuous
+attack of the Franco-Breton army, which was unable to shake their
+antagonists, who returned the charge. The mel�e was fearful, but the
+battle was in favour of the English. Charles performed prodigies of
+valour. In vain Rohan and Laval rallied round him with the flower of the
+Breton knights; the prince was a prisoner, and an English soldier
+despatched him by plunging a dagger into his throat. Du Guesclin sustained
+all the force of the fight with his heavy steel mace, his battle-axe and
+his sword; but his mace was broken, the handle of his axe carried away,
+his sword shivered, and he had no other weapon left but his gauntlets, and
+was nearly overpowered by numbers, when Chandos, who fought with a
+battle-axe, entreated him to surrender, "Messire Bertrand, rendez-vous,
+cette journ�e n'est pas v�tre; il faut c�der � la fortune, une autre fois
+vous serez plus heureux." Convinced of the truth of Chandos' words, Du
+Guesclin surrendered to him the handle of his sword. Beaumanoir was among
+the prisoners; and Clisson, who never left the field, lost an eye in the
+conflict.
+
+A hair shirt was found, with thick knotted cords round the waist, upon the
+body of Charles, for he delighted in deeds of mortification. He often used
+to place pebbles in his shoes, and once walked two leagues barefoot in the
+snow to visit the relics of St. Ives, in consequence of which he was laid
+up for three months. He was buried at Guingamp, and his widow and children
+desired his canonisation; but de Montfort, fearing such a step would
+render him unpopular in Brittany, persuaded Pope Gregory XI. to refuse it.
+
+Du Guesclin, after he recovered his liberty, was destined, three years
+later, to be a second time the prisoner of the English at Navarrete, when
+the Black Prince replaced on his throne the cruel, perfidious Don Pedro.
+When Sir Hugh Calverley asked for the freedom of Du Guesclin, he was met
+by the reply, "Il ne faut pas l�cher ce dogue de Bretagne, si fatal aux
+Anglais." It was represented to the Black Prince that report ascribed his
+detention to fear or jealousy; upon which he sent for Du Guesclin, who
+told him he was tired of listening to the squeaking of the mice in his
+prison, and longed to hear the nightingales of Brittany. He named his own
+ransom at 100,000 florins, the Black Prince reduced it to 60,000; and the
+Princess of Wales contributed 20,000. It was paid by Charles V. "Had it
+been ten millions," says his biographer, "France would have paid it all."
+In the Mus�e des Archives at Paris is preserved an order of Charles V. to
+his treasurer, to prepare 30,000 Spanish doublons, to be paid to the
+Prince of Wales for the ransom of Du Guesclin, adding, "il touche notre
+honneur grandement." This is the most ancient royal autograph in the
+collection. Charles calls him Bertran de Caclin. The Constable, in a deed
+of gift of the Ch�teau of Cachant to the Duke of Anjou, signs "Bertrain."
+
+A school for deaf and dumb occupies the Chartreuse, directed by the Soeurs
+de la Sagesse. We were shown round by a deaf and dumb guide, who made us
+write on his slate what we could not explain on our fingers, and he also
+wrote his reply. He showed us a series of paintings, copies of Le Soeur's
+Life of St. Bruno in the Louvre, which are said to have been executed by
+the monks of the Chartreuse. Attached to the church is a sepulchral chapel
+containing the bones of the victims of the unfortunate descent on
+Quiberon, when the immense armament of French royalists who were landed in
+British ships, perished. They were commanded by d'Hervilly, an old officer
+of the Constitutional Guard of Louis XVI., and he had for lieutenant Count
+Charles de Sombreuil, whose sister had rendered the name illustrious by
+her heroism in the Reign of Terror. They landed at Carnac, where Georges
+Cadoudal and a band of Chouans awaited their arrival. Hoche, at the head
+of a republican army, hastened to meet them. Every thing depended upon
+their rapidity of action, but three days were lost in disputes about the
+command among the emigrant generals. They took possession of the peninsula
+of Quiberon, a strip of land about six miles long by three wide, united to
+the mainland by a narrow tongue of sand a league in extent, called the
+Falaise. Fort Penthi�vre, placed on the plateau of a steep rock, and
+bathed on each side by the sea between the peninsula and the Falaise,
+defends the approach by land. The emigrant army was protected by the
+English fleet which lay in the bay of Quiberon, one of the safest and most
+sheltered on the coast. The defence of Fort Penthi�vre was entrusted to
+some republican soldiers taken from the English prisons. In a night
+encounter d'Hervilly was killed.  Hoche marched upon Fort Penthi�vre,
+which was given up to him by the traitor soldiers. La Puisaye threw
+himself into a boat and gained the English fleet. The emigrant army was
+thrown into the greatest disorder; the "Bleus," as the republican soldiers
+were called, pressed close upon them, and Sombreuil, driven to the water's
+edge, and deserted by his troops, offered to capitulate, on the condition
+that the lives should be spared of all save himself. "Yes," cried the
+republicans with one voice. They demanded that the fire of the English
+corvette should cease, and there being no boat at hand, Gesril du Papeu
+swam to the English ship, and having delivered his message, returned and
+surrendered himself prisoner. It is said that Hoche considered the
+capitulation sacred, but Tallien arrived armed with full powers from the
+Convention to treat the emigrants according to law. The prisoners had been
+conducted to Auray; Hoche, unwilling to be the witness of acts he could
+not prevent, returned to Brest. Not one French officer would consent to be
+a member of the military commission who were to try, or rather condemn,
+the captives. It was composed of Belgians and Swiss, and it was difficult
+to induce the soldiers to execute the sentence. Sombreuil and a few others
+were shot at Vannes. The execution of the rest took place in a field now
+called the Champ des Martyrs. They were brought out in twenties, and
+placed before a trench, dug beforehand, and shot. The massacre lasted
+three weeks. In all there were 952 victims. Two chapels have been erected;
+the one attached to the Chartreuse, and the other on the Champ des
+Martyrs. That in the Chartreuse has inscribed over the front, in letters
+of gold, "France in tears has raised it." The interior walls are overlaid
+with black and white marble, with two marble bas-reliefs by David of
+Angers: one representing the Duc d'Angoul�me praying over the bones of the
+victims in 1814, when they were transferred from the Champ des Martyrs to
+the Chartreuse; the other, the laying of the first stone of the mausoleum
+by the Duchesse d'Angoul�me in 1823. In 1829 the solemn inauguration of
+the expiatory monument took place; and it must have been touching to the
+spectators to have assisted at the ceremony with the Duchesse d'Angoul�me,
+daughter of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, niece of the martyr saint the
+Princess Elizabeth, and herself long subjected to imprisonment and
+indignities. Only one year after this ceremony she again took the road to
+exile, where she ended her troublous life, a pattern of piety and
+resignation--
+
+            "Sa mort fut le soir d'un beau jour."
+
+In the centre of the mausoleum is the vault containing the bones, and over
+it a sarcophagus on a pedestal, upon which are inscribed the names of the
+victims. On the sarcophagus are busts of Sombreuil and the other chiefs of
+the expedition; and a profile of Monseigneur d'Herc�, Bishop of Dol, one
+of the victims. Of the bas-reliefs on the mausoleum, one represents the
+heroic act of Gesril du Papeu, with the words "I hoped in God, and shall
+not be afraid;" the other, the landing of the emigrants on the shore of
+Carnac, with "All my brothers are dead for Israel;"--these inscriptions are
+all in Latin. Others are round the monument:--"Unworthily slain for God and
+the King;"--"Precious before God is the blood of his saints;"--"For our
+lives and our laws;"--"You will receive a greater glory and an eternal
+name." Our deaf and dumb guide let a light down into the vault to show us
+the bones of the victims, collected in one common sepulchre. The
+Chartreuse convent therefore commemorates two great tragedies of history:
+in ancient times the battle of Auray, which caused the death of Charles of
+Blois, the captivity of Du Guesclin, and the slaughter of the flower of
+Breton chivalry by the swords of their fellow Bretons. In modern days, the
+massacre of the royalists at Quiberon--both the horrible consequence of
+civil war.
+
+We then repaired to the "Champ des Martyrs," where took place the
+execution of the royalists. At the end of an avenue of silver firs is the
+expiatory chapel, with a granite portico, in the Doric style. Above is
+inscribed, "It is here they fell," and "The memory of the just shall be
+eternal."
+
+On the tomb is written, "Tombeau des royalistes courageux defenseurs de
+l'autel et du tr�ne, ils tomb�rent martyrs de leurs nobles efforts. Quel
+Fran�ais p�netr� des droits de la couronne ignore ce qu'il doit � ces
+illustres morts."
+
+The inn Pavilion d'en Haut is particularly comfortable and reasonable, and
+the people very obliging. Wishing to taste the cr�pes we had seen before,
+they procured some, and gave them to us hot--we thought they resembled a
+greasy crumpet.
+
+[Illustration: 34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.]
+
+Auray is a good central point for visiting the Celtic remains:--menhirs,
+dolmens, cromlechs, all of which are as plentiful here as are calvaries,
+shrines, and churches in L�on. They seem all concentrated on these dreary
+wild landes, sometimes covered with furze bushes, at others strewn along
+the coast.
+
+Next day we drove to Locmariaker, nine miles from Auray, through Crach. On
+the right is the river or estuary of that name; over which a bridge is
+contemplated at La Trinit�, to communicate with Carnac. Locmariaker is at
+the extremity of the peninsula formed by the rivers of Crach and Auray, at
+the entrance of the Morbihan. It must have been a place of some importance
+in the time of the Roman occupation of Gaul, as there are the remains of a
+circus, whose walls now enclose the cemetery, of a Gallo-Roman house, with
+baths, frescoed walls, and marble pavement. We picked up some fragments of
+Roman bricks which lie strewn upon the ground in great abundance. Midst
+these Roman remains are gigantic menhirs, barrows, and dolmens, vestiges
+of a still more ancient race. Locmariaker has two large tumuli, both vast
+tombs.
+
+[Illustration: 35. Sculptured Stone. Mann� er Hro�ck. Locmariaker.]
+
+We first visited the Mann�-er-Hro�k, the Montagne de la F�e, or de la
+Femme, which bears in the marine charts the name of "Butte de C�sar," for
+it was the fashion with antiquaries to attribute to C�sar and the Romans
+every Celtic monument, although bearing no resemblance whatever to any
+work of these conquerors. The Montagne de la F�e is a galgal or tumulus of
+elliptic form, about thirty feet high, formed of dry stones.  It was
+opened in 1863, and found to contain a sepulchral chamber or dolmen,
+outside of which lay a granite stone above three feet long, inscribed with
+various figures, and, in the middle, a cartouche, with hatchet-shaped
+characters. There were also found a number of celts (stone hatchets or
+knives), a green jasper necklace, and some glass beads, which have been
+transferred to the museum at Vannes.  The guide who furnished the light
+and showed us the grotto is the widow of a Polish officer. She had a
+Scotch terrier, which she wanted us to accept.  The legend of the mound is
+this:--A widow had the misfortune of losing her only solace, her son,
+compelled by law to embark for foreign lands. Years rolled by; he did not
+return. All said he was lost; but the heart of a mother hopes for ever,
+and the sad Armorican went every day to the point of Kerpenhir, whence she
+surveyed the ocean, and searched the depths of the horizon with tearful
+eyes for the purple sail(16) which was to bring joy and peace to her
+dwelling. One day, when she was returning sad as usual to her desolate
+home, she was accosted by an old woman, who enquired the cause of her
+troubles; and, on hearing them, advised her to heap a pile of stones, so
+that, mounting on the summit, she might see to a greater distance, and
+perhaps discern the long looked-for vessel. During the whole night the two
+women worked, and carried in their aprons the stones they gathered on the
+heath. In the morning their task was finished, and the Bretonne was scared
+to see the enormous heap that had been piled together; but the other
+quieted her fears, and helped her to climb to the top, whence soon the
+happy mother beheld the vessel of her son. The fairy, her assistant, had
+disappeared. This story evidently bears a vague tradition of this tumulus
+having been raised by a woman, and of some maritime expedition made by him
+for whom it was probably destined. The name of fairy is attached in
+Brittany to everything--mountains, springs, grottoes, rocks; every accident
+in nature is explained by a fairy origin.
+
+The next object we saw is also attributed to the fairies, the great
+menhir, called Men-er-Gro�ch, or stone of the fairies. It is the largest
+menhir known, but it has been broken into three pieces, some say by
+thunder. Put together, it measures about 67 feet in length, and is 16 feet
+in diameter. The wonder is how it was placed there, for it is little less
+than the obelisk of St. Peter's, which took 800 to 900 men and 70 horses
+nearly a year to raise,--a work which was the great triumph of Fontana the
+engineer. The menhir is estimated to be one-third the height of Notre Dame
+at Paris.
+
+Lying also prostrate on the ground, by the side of it, is a smaller
+menhir, which is, however, above 30 feet long.
+
+[Illustration: 36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture. Dol des Marchands.
+Locmariaker.]
+
+Close to these gigantic menhirs is the large dolmen (Breton, _daul_,
+table, and _moen_, stone), known as the "Table de C�sar," or the "Dol des
+Marchands." We walked under it to see the curious hatchet-shaped figure
+sculptured on one of the upper stones. The common belief is that these
+dolmens or table-stones were Druidic altars, and the guides will show you
+the furrows for the blood of the human sacrifice to run down; but human
+bones having been found under some of these dolmens, lead one to suppose
+they were tombs. In the Scandinavian countries the peasants call them
+"Giants' Graves."
+
+The other great tumulus of Locmariaker is the Mont Heleu or Mann�-Lud,
+also opened in 1863, and supposed to have been the sepulchre of a number
+of persons, perhaps of a whole generation. It has, like the Montagne de la
+Fe�, a galleried chamber or dolmen, the floor formed of an enormous slab
+across the centre, on which is a sculpture resembling a celt; other
+sculptured stones were found in the same chamber. At the other end of the
+dolmen was an avenue of stones, some supporting the skeletons of horses'
+heads. This tumulus was probably the tomb of some great warrior: the
+horses' skeletons were the remains of a sacrifice, and the human bones of
+beings who had been immolated to accompany the earthly remains of their
+great chief to another world.
+
+We took a boat for Gavr' Inis, or the Goat Island, and embarked on the
+Morbihan (Breton, Little Sea), an inland sea, that gives its name to the
+department. Shut out from the ocean by the two peninsulas of Locmariaker
+and Rhuys, which form a narrow gully between the points of Kerpenhir and
+Port Navalo, this sea contains an archipelago of islands, numbering,
+according to tradition, as many as the days in the year. Of these, the Ile
+aux Moines is the largest. The arms of the sea forming the rivers of Auray
+and Vannes run into it. The navigation of the Morbihan is very dangerous,
+the ocean entering it by this narrow opening in three distinct currents;
+it is an endless labyrinth of rocks and water; its granite shores, torn by
+the sea, are indented with creeks, capes, and inlets.
+
+[Illustration: 37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis.]
+
+[Illustration: 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis.]
+
+Gavr' Inis is a small island, surmounted by a tumulus, which forms a
+conspicuous object, seen from all the mounds and dolmens around. It is a
+galgal of heaped stones, in the centre of which is a dolmen or galleried
+chamber, which was opened in 1832, and is the most curious monument in the
+Morbihan. The gallery, with its square sepulchral chamber at the end, is
+above fifty feet long and about five wide, composed of two rows of granite
+menhirs, or upright stones, which form the sides, with horizontal stones
+resting on them, ending in a chamber consisting of eight menhirs, with an
+enormous slab, thirteen feet long, placed over them horizontally to form
+the roof, and another, nearly as large, to form the floor. These stones
+are of granite, and no cement is used to unite them.  They are covered
+with incised figures of unknown meaning: sculptures in concentric whorls
+or circles, as if tattoed like the cheek of a New Zealander; and the only
+forms to be distinguished are serpent-like figures, and the representation
+of an axe, similar to those to be seen in the Grotte des F�es, the Dol des
+Marchands, and the Mann�-Lud. In one of the side stones of the chamber are
+two handle-looking projections, with a recess behind, said, probably
+erroneously, to be the place where the victims were bound. No celts or
+other objects of antiquity were found in the grotto, which must have been
+previously rifled of its contents. These sculptures cannot have been
+executed without the use of metal instruments. There are also Celtic
+remains in the Ile aux Moines and other islands of the Morbihan, but our
+guide did not encourage us to extend our sail to visit them. The current
+between the island and Port Navalo is sometimes of great rapidity and
+violence.
+
+Next day we went to Carnac to see its marvellous avenues of menhirs. The
+Celtic remains here are of a different character from those of
+Locmariaker. Here there is quantity, at Locmariaker size. The monuments of
+the last are covered with strange characters and signs; in Carnac they are
+all plain and silent, according to the laws of the Druids, who prohibited
+writing, in the fear of thereby divulging their mysteries, and also that
+the people might not neglect to cultivate their memories.
+
+
+    "Tout cela eut un sens, et traduisit
+    Une pens�e; mais la cl� de ce myst�re,
+    O� est elle? et qui pourrait dire aujourd'hui
+    Si jamais elle se retrouvera?"--CAYAT DELANDRE.
+
+
+Before reaching Carnac, we stopped at Kermario on the left, and got out of
+the carriage to inspect the army of large menhirs about the windmill. They
+are arranged in eleven rows, some sixteen feet high, placed with the small
+end in the ground. They are all of a sombre grey, many of them clothed
+with straggling lichens of various species. This wild heathy tract was
+covered with the blue flower of the dwarf gentian, and strewed all over
+with menhirs. Before arriving at Carnac, the road passes the avenues of
+Menec, all running in the same direction as those of Kermario, from east
+to west: among these are some of the largest stones. The third large
+group, at Erdeven, we saw on our way from Carnac back to Auray by another
+road.
+
+
+    "D'un pass� sans m�moire incertaines reliques,
+    Myst�res d'un vieux monde en myst�res �crits."
+                    LAMARTINE.
+
+
+We do not pretend to enter into the various explanations attempted of this
+wonderful monument. The legend at Carnac is, that St. Corn�ly, pursued by
+an army of pagans, fled towards the sea; finding no boat at hand, and on
+the point of being taken, he transformed the soldiers into stones.
+
+
+                    "Les soldats de deux rois idol�tres
+    Poursuivaient notre saint dej� l'ami des p�tres,
+    Et sur un chariot train� par de grands boeufs
+    Le bons vieux Corn�li se sauvait devant eux;
+    Or, voici que la mer, terrible aussi l'arr�te;
+    Alors, le saint pr�lat, du haut de sa charrette
+    Tend la main: les soldats, tels qu'ils �taient rang�s,
+    En autant de menhirs, voyez! furent chang�s.
+    Telle est notre croyance, et personne n'ignore
+    Que le patron des boeufs c'est ici qu'on l'honore;
+    Aux lieux o� la charrette et le saint ont pass�s,
+    Le froment pousse encor plus vert et plus press�."
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+St. Corn�ly is the patron of bullocks. When a beast is ill, his owner buys
+an image of St. Corn�ly, and hangs it up in the stable till its recovery.
+In the church of Carnac is a series of fresco paintings portraying the
+principal events of his life, and outside, a sculpture representing him
+between two bullocks. The head of St. Corn�ly is preserved here; the
+pulpit is of forged iron, and in the sacristy is shown a silver gilt
+monstrance of the Louis XIV. period, with a representation of the Supper
+at Emmaus, chased in relief round the foot. We walked to the Mont St.
+Michel, a tumulus of stones with sepulchral dolmen, opened in 1862, but
+now closed. It was found to contain objects of the "Stone" age, a number
+of jade celts from four to sixteen inches long, some perforated beads and
+pendents for a necklace, and there were traces of burnt bones. Like most
+monuments of Celtic origin, these tumuli were regarded with religious
+veneration; and the first teachers of Christianity, to enlist the old
+worship to the cause of truth, marked each of these monuments with the
+symbol of the new faith. Thus the cross was placed on the menhir, and a
+chapel built upon Mont St. Michel, and, as we have before seen, on Mont
+Dol, and other high places of Druidic worship. The little chapel dedicated
+to St. Michel, which surmounts the tumulus, forms a conspicuous landmark
+from every point, and commands a most extensive view over the stones of
+Carnac ranged in their eleven lines, on a treeless plain, the Morbihan,
+and the long dreary peninsula of Quiberon.
+
+Returning by another route, we alighted at the inn at Plouharnel to see a
+collection of jade celts, gold torques, and necklaces of beads, found in
+the neighbourhood, belonging to the landlord, M. Bail, who has them all
+arranged in a frame. They were discovered in a group of dolmens near the
+village, opened in 1830, consisting of three grottos or all�es couvertes,
+a kind of triple dolmen, covered over with a mound. The central grotto and
+gallery had been opened before. The second dolmen had also a grotto or
+all�e couverte, in which was found an earthen pot, containing ashes and
+three gold necklaces. In the third were some fragments of pottery. Three
+gold necklaces, composed each of a single plate of metal, an inch and a
+half wide, with fragments of the earthen vessels in which they were found,
+together with stone celts and some pieces of bronze, extracted from the
+dolmen, we afterwards saw exhibited in the "Mus�e du Travail" of the
+Universal Exhibition of 1867. These dolmens belong to a much later period
+of civilisation than those of Locmariaker--to the "Bronze" Age.
+
+[Illustration: 40. Dolmen of Corcorro.]
+
+The number of dolmens in the Morbihan is estimated at 250. In the
+department of Finist�re they are set at double the number. All are
+supposed to have been originally covered with earth. The bodies are more
+frequently buried than burnt. The dolmens contain implements of stone and
+bone, occasionally gold and bronze, but never iron. To judge from the
+comparative quantities found in the different departments, it may be
+assumed that they are the work of people who have entered France from the
+west, and have gradually worked their way by the rivers and valleys
+further up the country. In this secluded spot we found a large English
+family located, ten in number; they had been living there several months.
+Before reaching Erdeven, at Kerserho, on a large lande or heathy plain, we
+arrived at another series of the great Carnac army of stones, of which
+they are a continuation. They are arranged in nine parallel rows, as may
+be clearly distinguished by standing upon one of the stones; but the lines
+are rather interrupted by hedges and ditches. Some are menhirs planted
+vertically on the end, others enormous blocks simply laid upon the soil.
+They extend half a league from north to south, more numerous than Carnac,
+but generally not so tall, the highest from ten to twelve feet, but very
+large. The road is strewed with Druidic monuments. At Corcorro, between
+Plouharnel and Erdeven, on a farm, a short distance off the road, is a
+dolmen, the largest in the Morbihan. Its original length appears to have
+been 45 feet; the part preserved is 24 feet by 12 feet wide, and is
+covered with two slabs: one of these is enormous, about six feet wide. It
+is used as a cart-shed, and, when we saw it, contained bundles of hemp and
+a hemp-breaker. One of the top stones overhangs the others, showing the
+dolmen to have been originally larger. A number of ragged children
+clustered upon the top, as if they had been accustomed to group themselves
+for a picture. They effectually prevented any of us sketching the dolmen,
+for, as soon as we began to draw, they all, in number about forty, came
+down from their height and pressed closely around us. From Auray we took a
+carriage to Vannes, a tidal port, one league from the gulf of Morbihan,
+and capital of that department.
+
+Its people, the Veneti, were the head of the Armorican confederation, and
+commanded the fleet in time of war. Their vessels had sails of prepared
+skins, their cables were chains of iron. They traded with the Scilly
+Islands, and brought back tin, copper, skins, slaves, and dogs, objects of
+traffic with other nations. The Armorican confederation made a vigorous
+resistance against C�sar, who sent round for the Roman fleet and beat them
+in a naval battle in the Morbihan sea. The Romans had attached to their
+ships large sharp scythes which mowed down masts and rigging, and a dead
+calm rendering the enemy's ships immovable, they were soon taken, burnt,
+or sunk. This battle ended the war with the maritime states of the west.
+C�sar showed little mercy to the conquered: all the senators were put to
+death, and the rest of the population sold by auction to furnish the
+slave-markets of Italy.
+
+We walked to the promenade, called the "Garenne," where Sombreuil, Ren�e
+de Herc�, bishop of Dol, and twenty-two others of the emigrants, were
+shot. Sombreuil was about twenty-six or twenty-seven years of age, a
+native of P�rigord. He always persisted in the same account of the
+capitulation. His last words were:-"Si j'avais pu imaginer que des
+militaires pussent manquer � leur parole donn�e sur le champ de bataille,
+je n'aurais jamais consenti � une capitulation; elle me cause des regrets
+amers qui me suivront jusqu'au tombeau. Adieu, Messieurs, nous trouverons
+justice et cl�mence devant un tribunal o� la fraude des hommes ne saurait
+jamais parvenir." A republican officer offered to bandage his eyes: "Non,"
+he exclaimed, "je veux voir mon ennemi jusqu'au dernier instant."
+Requested to kneel, Sombreuil answered: "Je le veux bien; mais je fais
+observer que je mets un genou pour mon Dieu, et l'autre pour mon roi."
+Thus ended the most ill-fated expedition that history has ever had to
+record.
+
+The cathedral of Vannes has a richly-sculptured north porch of Kersanton
+stone, and another, facing the Rue des Trois Duchesses. Also, a
+Renaissance chapel, called the Chapelle du Saint Sacrament or du Pardon,
+with a hideous roof replacing the original. Adjoining are the remains of
+the elegant cloisters of the cathedral, with basket-handled arcades of the
+fifteenth century. In the cathedral is also the chapel of St. Vincent
+Ferrier, the great preacher of the fifteenth century, whose labours
+extended over almost every country of Europe--Italy, Germany, France,
+Switzerland, and Great Britain. San Vicente Ferrar, a Dominican monk, was
+the son of an attorney, originally of Valencia, in Spain, of which city he
+is the tutelar saint. In Spain he led the way in preaching a crusade
+against the Jews and Moors, who were persecuted by the Inquisition with
+the most cruel bigotry. Invited to Brittany by Duke John V., he fixed
+himself at Vannes, where, after having evangelised the province, he died
+in 1419. He was buried in the cathedral. The Duchess Jeanne de France,
+daughter of Charles VI., was present at his deathbed, and insisted on
+laying him out. By her own desire, she was buried at his feet. Philip II.,
+King of Spain, desired his relics, but did not succeed in obtaining them.
+The little house in which St. Vincent Ferrier lived is preserved (No. 13,
+Rue des Orf�vres). A tiny room, up a narrow staircase, is now converted
+into a chapel, in which are shown the stone which served him as a pillow,
+his lamp, and other relics.
+
+The Maison du Parlement or Ch�teau Gaillau is a curious old building, with
+its entrance by a stone staircase and turret. Vannes was the usual
+residence of Dukes John IV. and V., and had formerly three ch�teaux: La
+Motte, of which the H�tel de la Pr�fecture occupies the site; Plaisance,
+half a mile out of the town, where Duke Francis I. died; and La Hermine,
+scene of John IV.'s treacherous imprisonment of the Constable Clisson,
+which was razed in 1614. It had two towers--one demolished in 1770, the
+other still standing, called the "Tour du Conn�table," because it was
+within its walls he imprisoned Clisson. The Duke had resolved on his
+death, to prevent the marriage of Clisson's daughter Marguerite to Jean de
+Bretagne, Count de Penthi�vre, son of Charles of Blois.(17) The story is
+well related by d'Argentr�.
+
+The Duke of Brittany summoned his barons and knights to a council at
+Vannes, and entertained them in the Castle de la Motte. He behaved in the
+most friendly manner, and invited the Constable, the Lords of Laval and de
+Beaumanoir, to see the castle of Hermine he was building. He led the
+Constable by the hand through the chambers, and when they arrived at the
+keep, said, "Sir Oliver, there's not a man who understands masonry so well
+as yourself; enter and examine the walls well, and if you say it is
+properly built, it shall remain." The unsuspecting Constable ascended the
+staircase, when the door was closed upon him and he was seized and loaded
+with three pairs of fetters. The Duke ordered him to be put into a sack,
+his hands and feet tied, and to be thrown secretly at night into the sea.
+But the Constable owed his life to the loyalty of Jean Bazvalen, who, like
+another Hubert, did not obey his master's commands, the laws of his
+sovereign being less sacred in his eyes than the dictates of humanity and
+honour. Clisson was set at liberty, on agreeing to pay 100,000 livres and
+to surrender the town of Jugon and some other fortresses. This perfidious
+attempt occasioned a war of three years, and was retaliated by Clisson's
+daughter and grandsons upon Duke John V.
+
+The Tour du Conn�table, which formed the north-east angle of the Ch�teau
+de la Hermine, is now used as a museum of Celtic antiquities, and contains
+various objects collected in the tumuli of the Morbihan. We observed one
+very large jade celt, eighteen inches long, found, we understood, in the
+Butte de Tumiac. At Vannes the States of Brittany held their sittings, and
+here took place the union of that province with France, 1532.
+
+About twelve miles from Vannes is Korn-er-ho�t, demesne of the Princess
+Baciocchi, cousin of the Emperor. It was formerly surrounded by woods and
+the interminable lande of Lanvaux, which stretches its desolate length
+along the Morbihan from Baud to Rochefort. This district had been, from
+time immemorial, the abode of some eighty families of gipsies, who lived
+there in clay huts under the rule of a chieftain. The sight of this barren
+wilderness had so impressed the Princess Baciocchi, in a tour she made in
+Brittany in the year 1857, that she obtained the sanction of the Emperor
+to reclaim it. She caused a temporary ch�let to be built for her
+occupation at Kern-er-ho�t, and, superintending the works herself, in a
+few years effected a wonderful transformation. A model village has been
+formed, with church and schools, a well-ordered agricultural population
+organised, farm-buildings erected, roads macadamised, the barren lande
+drained and reclaimed, and the ch�teau surrounded by a well-wooded park.
+
+Great attention has been paid to the details of the dairy farm; all the
+disposable milk is made into Dutch cheese. The cows are those of Brittany
+and Ayrshire; the pigs from England. The whole demesne comprises about
+1300 acres, and the benevolent Princess resides entirely on the scene of
+her labours, among the people whose condition she has so ameliorated.(18)
+
+From Vannes we made an excursion into the peninsula of Rhuys, on the south
+of the Morbihan Sea. We first stopped at Sarzeau, where Lesage, the
+amiable author of 'Gil Blas,' was born, of whom it was written on his
+epitaph:--
+
+
+    "S'il ne fut pas ami de la fortune,
+    Il fut toujours ami de la vertu."
+
+
+Then on to the ducal fortress of Sucinio, situated on the borders of the
+ocean. It is a magnificent ruin, built in 1250, by Duke Jean le Roux, to
+deposit his treasures, in case an invasion of the French should compel him
+to leave his duchy. The position is well chosen, its situation on the
+seashore enabling him easily to embark his treasures.
+
+This formidable "coffre fort" was a favourite residence of the Dukes of
+Brittany, who came here as a relief from the cares and ceremonies of a
+Court. Its name, of which Sucinio is a corruption, Soucy-ny-ot, synonymous
+with the Sans-Souci of the great Frederick, shows its intention. This
+locality was long celebrated for its fine air, and its peaceful character.
+Louis XIV. used to say to his courtiers--
+
+
+    "D�sirez vous un pays de repos et de d�lices?
+    Allez habiter l'�le de Rhuys."
+
+
+Partly demolished, Sucinio presents a mass of now only picturesque ruins,
+a curious type of the architecture of the thirteenth century. Five of the
+eight enormous battlemented towers remain, and the flamboyant window of
+the chapel on the upper floor of the building is still preserved. Traces
+of the portcullis and drawbridge are visible. Over the gallery is an
+escutcheon, with a couchant lion holding the arms of Brittany, between two
+stags, also couchant, at the foot of a tree. The sea that bathed the walls
+of the castle has been driven back by the accumulation of mud and the
+crumbling of the walls.
+
+Here was born Arthur III., Comte de Richemont, Constable of France, and
+afterwards Duke of Brittany. This illustrious man, equally great as a
+warrior and politician, does not take his merited place in the page of
+history, owing probably to the partiality of French historians, who were
+always jealous of the glory of Brittany. Except Du Guesclin, no other
+constable has rendered greater service to France.
+
+A prisoner at Agincourt, where he commanded the van, he fought with the
+Maid of Orleans,(19) at Beaugeney, took Talbot captive at Patai,
+reconquered almost the whole of Normandy, entered Paris in 1436, and
+finally expelled the English by the crushing victory of Formigny, having
+staked his honour to drive them out of the kingdom. Seven years after, he
+succeeded to the ducal crown; but such was the confidence of Charles VII.
+in his loyalty, that he retained the supreme command of the French army
+with his new dignity. He reigned only fourteen months. Richmont always
+caused two swords to be carried before him when he appeared in presence of
+the King; a naked sword, as Duke of Brittany, and the other sheathed and
+the point turned downwards, as Constable of France. The title of Earl of
+Richmond, styled by the French Comte de Richmont, dates from the
+Conqueror. Alan Rufus, son of the Earl of Brittany, accompanied Duke
+William to England, and commanded the rear of the army at the battle of
+Hastings. For these services, he was rewarded with the hand of the
+Conqueror's daughter, and all that northern part of Yorkshire, now called
+Richmondshire, where he built, on the river Swale, the town and castle of
+Richmond.  The title passed through Alice, daughter of Constance of
+Brittany, to Pierre de Dreux, and descended through him to all the Dukes
+of his house, until John IV., having gone over to the King of France, was
+deprived of the earldom by Act of Parliament, in the reign of King Richard
+II.; but Henry IV. again conferred the title upon his stepson Arthur,
+afterwards the celebrated Constable and Duke of Brittany.
+
+We returned to breakfast at Sarzeau; then on to the Abbey of St. Gildas de
+Rhuys, founded on this inaccessible coast by St. Gildas, an English saint,
+the schoolfellow and friend of St. Samson of Dol and St. Pol de L�on, and
+which counted among its monks our Saxon St. Dunstan, who, carried by
+pirates from his native isle, settled on the desolate shores of Brittany,
+and became, under the name of St. Goustan, the patron of mariners.
+
+St. Gildas built his abbey on the edge of a high rocky promontory, the
+site of an ancient Roman encampment, called Grand Mont, facing the shore,
+where the sea has formed numerous caverns in its rocks. They are composed
+chiefly of quartz, and are covered to a great height with innumerable
+small mussels. The tide was too high to admit of our entering into any of
+the grottoes, but the piles of dark rocks beaten into every form by the
+violence of the waves, rising sometimes to the height of sixty feet, are
+very imposing. St. Gildas, in the twelfth century, had Abelard for
+superior, who, on his appointment, made over to Eloise the celebrated
+abbey he had founded at Nogent, near Troyes, which he called the Paraclete
+or Comforter, because he there found comfort and refreshment after his
+troubles, but his peace soon ended on his arrival in Brittany. His gentle
+nature was unable to contend against these coarse, ferocious, unruly,
+Breton monks. As he writes in his well-known letter to Eloise, setting
+forth his griefs:--
+
+  "J'habite un pays barbare, dont la langue m'est inconnue et en horreur:
+  je n'ai de commerce qu'avec des peuples f�roces; mes promenades sont les
+  bords inaccessibles d'une mer agit�e; mes moines n'ont d'autre r�gle que
+  n'en point avoir. Je voudrais que vous vissiez ma maison, vous ne la
+  prendriez jamais pour une abbaye: les portes ne sont orn�es que de pieds
+  de biche, de loups et d'ours, de sangliers, des d�pouilles hideuses des
+  hiboux. J'�prouve chaque jour de nouveaux p�rils; je crois � tout moment
+  voir sur ma t�te un glaive suspendu."
+
+But if Abelard hated the monks, they equally detested him, and one day
+tried to poison him, but he escaped through a gate in the garden wall,
+still pointed out, to the sea shore, where his friend and protector, the
+Count de Rhuys, awaited him in a boat.
+
+The abbey is now in the occupation of twelve sisters of the "Charit� de
+St. Louis," who have a school for poor girls, and, in the summer, take in
+families to board who come here for the benefit of the bracing air of this
+fine wild coast. There is a kind of establishment for bathing in the
+little bay below the abbey. The board and lodging is moderate, three
+francs and a half a day, wine, tea, and sugar, not included. Boys are
+admitted up to thirteen, but the men are sent into the town.
+
+Part of the abbey church is Romanesque: a semi-circular choir, with three
+round chapels and the transepts. The nave and tower are of modern date.
+The pavement is covered with tumulary stones. Four children of Duke John
+III. le Roux are buried here, and one of Joan of Navarre and John IV. In
+the Treasury are several pieces of plate, among which is a Renaissance
+chalice, with six canopied statuettes of Apostles forming the knop; and a
+cross of the same period, a ch�sse of St. Gildas, his head and arm both
+encased in silver reliquaries.  His tomb is in the church.  Encrusted in
+the wall outside the church are the figures of two knights on horseback in
+mailed armour, conical Norman helmets, long pointed shields, and lances in
+the attitude of combat. The church and convent of St. Gildas belonged to
+the family of Bisson, whose self-devotion is commemorated by a statue at
+Lorient. He passed here many years of his early life, and wishing to
+preserve the buildings from ruin, gave them as a present to the parish.
+St. Gildas is called by the Bretons St. Feltas. There is a rude coloured
+print in the church relative to the legend of Comorre, or Comor, the
+Breton "Blue Beard," in which St. Gildas plays a conspicuous part. The
+story, as told by Emile Souvestre, is this:--Guerech, Count of Vannes, the
+country of white corn, had a daughter, Triphyna, whom he tenderly loved.
+One day, ambassadors arrived from Comorre, a Prince of Cornouaille, the
+country of the black corn, demanding her in marriage. Now this caused
+great distress, for Comorre was a giant, and one of the wickedest of men,
+held in awe by every one for his cruelty. As a boy, when he went out, his
+mother used to ring a bell to warn people of his approach. He shot a child
+in order to prove his gun; and, when unsuccessful in the chase, would set
+his dogs on the peasants to tear them in pieces. But most horrible of all,
+he had had four wives, who all died one after the other, under suspicion
+of having been killed by either the knife, fire, water, or poison. The
+Count of Vannes, therefore, dismissed the ambassadors, and advanced to
+meet Comorre, who was approaching with a powerful army; but St. Gildas
+went into her oratory, and begged Triphyna would save bloodshed, and
+consent to the marriage. He gave her a silver ring, which would warn her
+of any intended evil, by turning, at the approach of danger, as black as
+the crow's wing. The marriage took place with great rejoicings. The first
+day six thousand guests were invited; on the next as many poor were fed,
+the bride and the bridegroom serving at table, a napkin under their arms.
+For some time, all went on well. Comorre's nature seemed changed, his
+prisons were empty, his gibbets untenanted; but Triphyna felt no
+confidence, and every day went to pray at the tombs of his four wives. At
+this time there was an assembly at Rennes of the Breton Princes, which
+Comorre was obliged to attend. Before his departure, he gave Triphyna the
+keys, desiring her to amuse herself in his absence. After five months he
+unexpectedly returned, and found her occupied in trimming an infant's cap
+with gold lace.  On seeing the cap, Comorre turned pale; and when Triphyna
+joyfully announced to him that in two months he would be a father, he drew
+back in a rage and rushed out of the apartment. Triphyna saw that her ring
+had turned black, which betokened danger, she knew not why. She descended
+into the chapel to pray; when she rose to depart it was midnight, and she
+saw the four tombs of Comorre's wives open slowly, and they all issued
+forth in their winding-sheets. Half dead with fear, Triphyna tried to
+escape; but the spectres cried, "Take care, poor lost one! Comorre seeks
+to kill you." "I," says the Countess, "what evil have I done?"--"You have
+told him that you will soon become a mother; and, through the Spirit of
+Evil, he knows that his child will kill him, and that is why he has
+murdered us, when we told him what he has just learned from you." "What
+hope then of escape remains for me," cried Triphyna."--"Go back to your
+father," answered the phantoms. "But how escape when Comorre's dog guards
+the court?"--"Give him this poison which killed me," said the first wife."
+"But how can I descend this high wall?"--"By means of this cord which
+strangled me," answered the second wife. "But who will guide me through
+the dark?"--"The fire which burnt me," replied the third wife. "And how can
+I make so long a journey?" returned Triphyna.--"Take this stick which broke
+my skull," rejoined the fourth spectre. Armed with these weapons, Triphyna
+sets out, silences the dog, scales the wall, sees her way through the
+darkness, and proceeds on her road to Vannes. On awakening next morning,
+Comorre finds his wife fled, and pursues her on horseback. The poor
+fugitive, seeing her ring turn black, turned off the road and hid herself
+till night in the cabin of a shepherd, where was only an old magpie in a
+cage at the door. Comorre, who had given up the pursuit, was returning
+home that road, when he heard the magpie trying to imitate her complaints,
+and calling out "Poor Triphyna!" he therefore knew his wife had passed
+that way, and set his dog on the track. Meanwhile, Triphyna felt she could
+proceed no further, and laid down on the ground, where she brought into
+the world a boy of marvellous beauty. As she clasped him to her arms, she
+saw over her head a falcon with a golden collar, which she recognised as
+her father's. The bird came to her call, and giving it the warning ring of
+St. Gildas, she told it to fly with it to her father. The bird obeyed and
+flew with it like lightning to Vannes; but, almost at the same instant,
+Comorre arrived; having parted with her warning ring, Triphyna, who had no
+notice of his approach, had only time to conceal her babe in the cavity of
+a tree, when Comorre threw himself upon his unhappy wife, and with one
+blow severed her head from her body. When the falcon arrived at Vannes, he
+found the King at dinner with St. Gildas; he let the ring fall into the
+silver cup of his master, who recognising it, exclaimed, "My daughter is
+in danger; saddle the horses, and let St. Gildas accompany us." Following
+the falcon, they soon reached the spot where Triphyna lay dead. After they
+had all knelt in prayer, St. Gildas said to the corpse, "Arise, take thy
+head and thy child, and follow us." The dead body obeyed, the bewildered
+troop followed; but, gallop as fast as they could, the headless body was
+always in front, carrying the babe in her left hand, and her pale head in
+the right. In this manner, they reached the castle of Comorre. "Count,"
+says St. Gildas, "I bring back your wife such as your wickedness has made
+her, and thy child such as Heaven has given it thee. Wilt thou receive
+them under thy roof?" Comorre was silent. The Saint three times repeated
+the question, but no voice returned an answer. Then St. Gildas took the
+new-born infant from its mother, and placed it on the ground. The child
+marched alone to the edge of the moat, and picking up a handful of earth,
+and throwing it against the castle, exclaimed, "Let the Trinity execute
+judgment." At the same instant the towers shook and fell with a great
+crash; the walls yawned open and the castle sunk, burying Comorre and all
+his fellow partners in crime. St. Gildas then replaced Triphyna's head
+upon her shoulders, laid his hands upon her, and restored her to life, to
+the great joy of her father.--Such is the history of Triphyna and Comorre.
+
+On our way back to Vannes we saw on our left the Butte de Tumiac, or Butte
+d'Arzon, the largest tumulus of the Morbihan. It was opened in 1853, and
+found to enclose a chamber full of pulverised bones and various curious
+objects. From Vannes we also visited the stately castle of Elven, about
+four miles from the station of that name; not built on a lofty site, for,
+in the fifteenth century, the barons had descended from their heights to
+places more convenient of access, and where water was more easily
+obtained. The Breton feudal lords of Rohan, Rieux, Clisson, and
+Penthi�vre, no longer required fortified places as means of defence
+against the French and English, but, in consequence of their own internal
+divisions, to defend them in their wars with their duke or among
+themselves. The castle of Elven is situated in an insulated coppice wood,
+in the midst of the lande of Elven. It was the chief place of the lordship
+of l'Argo�t (in Breton, "upon the wood"), and is also called the fortress
+of Largo�t.
+
+[Illustration: 41. Castle of Elven.]
+
+The ruins, which occupy a large enclosure, consist chiefly of two towers;
+the principal one, 130 feet high, is octagonal; the other, which is not
+above 100 feet in height, is split from top to bottom. The battlemented
+walls are nearly 20 feet thick at the base. A wide deep moat surrounded
+the castle, and it was furnished with subterranean passages and everything
+requisite to make it a model of the military architecture of the fifteenth
+century. The donjon has two granite staircases; one leads to the top,
+whence may be seen Vannes and the Morbihan, with its islands. Here, in
+1793, the Royalists established signals. In the castle of Elven, Henry of
+Richmond, then only fifteen, with his uncle, Jasper Tudor, Earl of
+Pembroke, were detained by Duke Francis II. for fifteen years. Fugitives
+after Tewkesbury, they were thrown by a tempest upon the shores of
+Brittany. Henry was claimed both by King Edward IV. and Louis XI., and was
+kept by Duke Francis as a pledge of the good faith of Edward towards
+Brittany. Perhaps also Francis may have entertained some ill-feeling
+towards Henry from his bearing the title of Earl of Richmond, which had
+been held for more than three hundred years by the Dukes of Brittany.
+Francis revived the claim to the title which Henry VI. had conferred
+(1452) on Edward Tudor, father of Henry. Subsequently, on the assurance of
+the King of England that he only required the release of Henry to invest
+him with the Order of the Garter and to give him his daughter, the
+Princess Elizabeth, in marriage, Duke Francis made over the Prince to the
+English Ambassador, and he was about to embark at St. Malo for England,
+when the Duke's Grand Treasurer (Landais) arrived, warned Henry of his
+danger, and helped him to take refuge in the sanctuary of the church,
+whence he afterwards withdrew him again to place him in honourable
+captivity for twelve more years, till King Edward's death. A party being
+formed in England, aided by the Duchess of Brittany, Fran�oise de Foix,
+Henry attempted a descent; but the plan being discovered, after seeing the
+English coast, Henry was obliged to return to Brittany and his ships were
+scattered in a storm.  Again within his power, Landais listened to the
+offers of King Richard III., and agreed to give him up; but Henry,
+informed in time, left Vannes, threw himself into the forest, and escaped
+to France, where he obtained from the regent, Anne de Beaujeu, the
+assistance which enabled him to mount the English throne.
+
+The castle of Elven, with those of Rieux and Rochefort, belonged to the
+Mar�chal de Rieux. Elven was rebuilt by him with the materials of the old;
+but they were all dismantled by the orders of the Duchess Anne in 1496, to
+punish her guardian for his revolt. Yet Rieux acted as he thought best for
+the welfare of his late master and his daughter, whose cause he defended
+against the interested views of the King of France. Rieux had that keen
+sense of honour which is one of the characteristics of the Breton
+gentleman. When he reproached Anne de Beaujeu, regent, to her brother
+Charles VIII., for having instigated the King to attack Nantes, contrary
+to his engagements, Anne replied, "He had no written promise." "Et quoi,
+Madame!" he indignantly exclaimed; "la parole d'un roy, ne vaut elle pas
+mille scellez?" Louis de Rieux, the last of the race, was shot on the
+Champs des Martyrs. True to the motto of his house, "A toute heure,
+Rieux," he showed himself ready "at any hour" to die for the altar and the
+throne.
+
+Elven is the scene of M. Octave Feuillet's "Roman d'un jeune Homme
+pauvre;" and the keeper who shows the ruins points out the spot whence the
+"Hero of Romance" took the leap to prove his loyalty, and which gained him
+the hand of the lady.
+
+Next morning we started early by rail to Questembert, to meet the
+diligence for Plo�rmel, twenty miles from this station, passing through
+Malestroit. We saw quantities of chestnuts on our road, and were told they
+were largely exported to England. They come principally from the
+neighbourhood of Redon and other places in the department of
+Ile-et-Vilaine, where they grow as abundantly as described by Madame de
+Sevign�, when writing from the Ch�teau des Roches, in the same department:
+"Pour nous, ce sont des ch�taignes qui font notre ornement. J'en avois
+l'autre jour trois au quatre paniers autour de moi. J'en fis bouillir,
+j'en fis r�tir, j'en mis dans mes poches, on en sert dans les plats, on
+marche dessus, c'est la Bretagne dans son triomphe."
+
+Plo�rmel derives its name (plo-ermel, land or territory of Armel) from an
+anchorite of the sixth century, who treated a dragon which ravaged the
+country in the time of King Childebert in the same manner as St. Pol de
+L�on disposed of the monster at Batz.
+
+The fa�ade of the church of Saint Armel has a number of grotesque
+carvings--the sow playing the bagpipes, the cobbler sewing up the mouth of
+his wife, &c.; but it is principally remarkable for its eight painted
+windows of the sixteenth century, lately restored, and the monumental
+effigies of two Dukes of Brittany; the one, John II., who was killed at
+Lyons, where he went to settle some differences with his clergy, on the
+occasion of the coronation of Pope Clement V. A wall, loaded with
+spectators, fell, and the Duke was crushed in its ruins; the Pope escaped
+with being only thrown from his mule.
+
+The other effigy is that of Duke John III., or the Good, whose death was
+the signal for the War of Succession. He died at Caen. These tombs were
+formerly in the Carmelite convent founded by John II., who, on his return
+from the Holy Land, established the first Carmelite convent in Brittany,
+and brought monks from Mount Carmel to inhabit it.
+
+The tombs were destroyed in the Revolution, but the two statues were
+saved. They are of white marble, and are placed on a monumental slab, side
+by side, with this inscription: "De tous temps la fid�lit� Bretonne rendit
+hommage � ses souverains." Duke John II. is represented in a hauberk of
+mail, the hood turned back, with cotte d'armes, shield, and sword. Duke
+John III. has his head encircled by the ducal crown, his hair long, his
+genouilli�res, cuissarts, &c., of plate armour. His shield and cotte
+d'armes are sem� of ermines, and by his side is the dagger of mis�ricorde,
+which served to kill the fallen enemy unless he cried for mercy. When
+James II. passed through Plo�rmel after the Battle of the Boyne, a
+fugitive and a dethroned monarch, the Carmelite monks would not take him
+in; but he found in the little village of Penfra the hospitality they had
+refused him. Here is an establishment, directed by a brother of Lamennais,
+the celebrated author of 'Paroles d'un Croyant,' where people of all
+nations--Indians, negroes from Senegambia, and others--are educated and
+taught trades of every kind, and sent back to their own countries.
+
+[Illustration: 42. Column of the Thirty.]
+
+The people about Plo�rmel and Josselin speak French instead of Breton, the
+prevailing language of the Morbihan department. It is nearly seven miles
+between Plo�rmel and Josselin. Equally distant from each, at Mi-voie, in
+the centre of a star formed by avenues of firs and cypresses, is an
+obelisk set up to commemorate the famous "Combat des Trente," which took
+place on this spot in 1351, and on which are inscribed the names of the
+thirty who fought on the French side. It was during that period of the War
+of Succession when hostilities were carried on by the two Jeannes, Marshal
+Beaumanoir, the Breton commander of the garrison of Josselin for Jeanne de
+Penthi�vre, gave a challenge to Bembro', as he is called, the English
+captain who held Plo�rmel for Jeanne de Montfort and her infant son, in
+consequence of an alleged infraction by the latter of a truce, agreed upon
+between the Kings of France and England, in which it had been stipulated
+that the peasants and those not bearing arms should be unmolested. In
+spite of this compact, the English soldiers devastated the country and
+committed every kind of excess. Jean de Beaumanoir repaired to Plo�rmel to
+remonstrate, and it was agreed to settle the dispute by a fight between
+thirty warriors from each camp. The prophecies of Merlin were consulted,
+and found to promise victory to the English. The appointed place of
+meeting was by a large oak, the "Ch�ne de Mi-Voie," on a lande or large
+plain, half way from each town. The battle began with great fury, at first
+to the disadvantage of the Bretons, when Bembro' was killed, which threw
+dismay among the English; but a German, who succeeded in the command,
+rallied their courage, and the mel�e became thicker than ever. Beaumanoir
+was wounded, and his loss of blood and his long fast produced a burning
+thirst, and he asked for water. "Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, ta soif se
+passera," was the reply of Geoffroy du Bois; and Beaumanoir, forgetting
+his thirst and his wound, continued the fight. The English kept their
+ranks close, till Guillaume de Montauban broke them by a stratagem and
+threw them into confusion. He mounted his horse and pretended to fly, then
+suddenly turned upon the English with such force that he threw seven down
+and broke their ranks:--
+
+
+    "Grande fut la bataille et longuement dura:
+    Et le chapple (carnage) horrible est de�� et del�;
+    La chaleur fut moult grande, chacun si tressua (sua);
+    De soeur et de sang la terre rosoya (rougit).
+    A ce bon samedi Beaumanoir si jeuna;
+    Grand soif eut le baron, � boire demanda;
+    Messire Geoffrey du Bois tant�t r�pondu a:
+    'Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, la soif te passera;
+    Ce jour aurons honneur, chacun si gagnera
+    Vaillante renomm�e, ja bl�me ne sera.'--
+    Beaumanoir le vaillant adonc s'�vertua,
+    Tel deuil eut et telle ire que la soif lui passa;
+    Et d'un c�t� et d'autre le chapple commen�a:
+    Morts furent ou bless�s, gu�res n'en �chappa."--BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh Calverly Croquart, and others were made
+prisoners, and thus ended the Battle of the Thirty; gained, however, in a
+most disloyal manner, Montauban getting the aid of a horse, when all the
+other combatants fought on foot.
+
+The Breton knights returned to Josselin, their helmets decorated with
+branches of the broom--
+
+
+    "In every basnet a bright broom flower;"
+
+
+the place where the battle was fought running, according to the French
+poem,
+
+
+    "Le long d'une g�netaie qui �tait verte et belle."
+
+
+Josselin is celebrated for its ch�teau, where died, 1407, Olivier du
+Clisson, the contemporary and brother of arms of Du Guesclin, whom he
+succeeded in the dignity of Constable of France, which no one for some
+time would accept, not thinking themselves worthy of replacing him. Both
+differed widely in position and character. Du Guesclin, though of a noble
+family, had not the advantage of fortune like Clisson, who had immense
+wealth and landed possessions, which made him a kind of sovereign in the
+duchy. He willed away a million of money. Clisson was a statesman, Du
+Guesclin's sole glory was in arms. Clisson was cruel, intriguing, and
+insatiable for riches; Du Guesclin was humane, loyal, and disinterested.
+Both were equal in bravery and physical force: the lance of Du Guesclin
+and the axe of Clisson(20) carried all before them. Clisson joined with Du
+Guesclin in freeing the country from the "Great Companies," and his most
+celebrated action was the defeat of the Flemings at Rosbecq. Few subjects
+have been so powerful, or have filled so important a part, as Olivier du
+Clisson. He was true to his sovereign after his reconciliation, and to his
+children after him. John IV. had scarce closed his eyes when the daughter
+of Clisson, wife of Jean de Penthi�vre, came to her father and said, "It
+depends only on you that my husband receives the inheritance of Brittany."
+"How?" asked the Constable. "By your ridding yourself of the children of
+De Montfort." "Ah! cruel and perverse woman," exclaimed Clisson; "if you
+live long, you will destroy the honour and property of your children;" and
+he accompanied his words with such violent menaces, that, seized with
+affright, she fled from his presence, and falling down, broke her thigh.
+The prophecy of Clisson was fulfilled, as we shall later relate. The
+ancient ch�teau in which he died was destroyed by Henry IV.; the present
+building was raised by Alain IX., Vicomte de Rohan, through Alain VIII.,
+who married Beatrix, eldest daughter of the Constable, by which Josselin
+descended to the Rohans,(21) a house yielding to none in antiquity and
+illustration, being descended from the ancient sovereigns of Brittany, and
+allied with all the crowned heads of Europe,--"Princes of Bretagne" they
+were styled. But the Rohan family became unpopular in the duchy, when John
+II. attached himself to Louis XI. and France, for the bribe of 8000 livres
+to himself and 4000 to his wife.
+
+At the battle of St. Aubin du Cormier, which sealed the fate of Brittany,
+the Vicomte du Rohan betrayed his brother-in-law Duke Francis and the
+national cause, and fought on the side of France. He afterwards marched at
+the head of the French troops, and besieged Guingamp, where its brave
+defenders declared, "As long as there is a duchess in Brittany, we will
+not give up her towns." But they took Pontrieux and Concarneau, and in
+1491 the Vicomte du Rohan was appointed by Charles VIII.
+Lieutenant-General in Lower Brittany.  He was called by his countrymen the
+"Felon Prince;" and so detested was he and his race, that it passed into a
+proverb to say of a mean, treacherous, dishonest person, "Il mange �
+l'auge comme Rohan,"--"He eats at the manger (that is, the table of the
+King of France) like Rohan." "Un peu de jactance," therefore, justly
+observes Daru, in the proud motto of the Rohans:--(22)
+
+
+    "Roi ne puis,
+    Prince ne daigne,
+    Rohan je suis."
+
+
+[Illustration: 43. Ch�teau of Josselin.]
+
+The ch�teau of Josselin stands by a river, on which side it presents piles
+of towers and fortifications covered with slate, a severe specimen of
+military architecture; while on the other side, the cour d'honneur, we see
+one of the handsomest ch�teaux of the Renaissance yet remaining in
+Brittany. This fa�ade is richly ornamented with sculptures of varied and
+fanciful design.  Immense gurgoyles, in the form of serpents, stretching
+from the roof to the base, pierced balustrades or galleries of lace-like
+delicacy, in which are introduced, according to the fashion of the period,
+the initial letters of the Vicomte Alain, A and V interlaced. The old
+Rohan motto, "� plus," and the escutcheon of gules, nine mascles or
+lozenges, occur in every part of this gorgeous front, and also on the
+finely-carved chimneypiece of the reception room (salle d'honneur). The
+whole of the ch�teau is in course of restoration by the Prince de L�on.
+
+In the church of Josselin is the tomb of the Constable Clisson, with that
+of Marguerite de Rohan his wife; both statues were mutilated in the
+Revolution, but are now restored: they are of white marble on a black
+slab. Clisson is in armour, Marguerite has her hair plaited and confined
+in a network of pearls; she wears a long robe, with a surcoat above,
+furred with ermine. The motto, "Pour ce qu'il me plest (plait)," is in an
+oratory which belonged to Clisson, expressing his haughty and overbearing
+will. This same motto appears on his seal, affixed to a letter preserved
+in the archives of the empire, and he is recorded to have had it inscribed
+upon his Constable's sword, which, like Du Guesclin, he always wore
+unsheathed, to show he was ready at all times to fight the enemies of the
+crown.
+
+There hangs in the church a picture of the finding of the image Notre
+Dame-du-Roncier, of which we relate the legend:--
+
+Long before Josselin was a town, a poor labourer had remarked, on the spot
+where now stands the church of Notre Dame, a bramble bush, which the frost
+and snow of the roughest winters never deprived of its leaves, but it
+always remained fresh and green. Surprised at this strange phenomenon, he
+dug the soil under the bramble, and discovered a wooden statue of the
+Virgin. A marvellous light played round the head of the image. The man
+carried it home; but next morning, to his surprise, he found the statue
+under the same bush whence he had taken it. The miracle was repeated
+several times, and soon attracted crowds of devotees. A chapel was built
+to deposit the sacred image, houses followed next, and a little town
+gradually formed, which the Comte de Porho�t surrounded with walls, and
+Josselin, his son, endowed with his name, 1030. Such was the rise of
+Josselin. A celebrated pilgrimage still exists to Josselin on Whit
+Tuesday, resorted to by crowds of "aboyeuses" or barkers, people possessed
+with this kind of epilepsy, said to be hereditary in several families, and
+which is accounted for from the circumstance of a party of washerwomen
+having refused a glass of water to the Vierge du Ron�ier, who went to them
+disguised in the garb of a beggar. The merciless creatures set their dogs
+upon the pretended mendicant, and thus brought down upon themselves and
+their posterity this fearful malediction. The disease is supposed to
+return periodically about Whitsuntide, and only to leave the afflicted
+when they are carried forcibly to the sanctuary of Notre Dame to press
+with their foaming lips the fragments still remaining of the ancient
+miraculous statue which was burnt upon the public Place in the time of the
+French Revolution.
+
+We left Plo�rmel at four o'clock in the morning for Montfort-sur-Mer,
+passing through Pl�lan; while the horses baited at a little auberge we got
+some hot coffee, and found a good fire in the kitchen. The landlady, shut
+in her "lit clos," did not disturb herself, but occasionally put out her
+head to give directions for our breakfast. On the left of the road is the
+forest of Paimpont, which formerly extended from Montfort to Rostrenan, a
+kind of neutral desert land, called Broc�liande, and famous, under that
+name, in the history of King Arthur. It was the theatre of the fairies'
+most wondrous enchantments. Here was the fountain of Youth and also that
+of Barenton, where they came every day to draw water in an emerald basin.
+Here, too, the enchanted Merlin has lain sleeping for centuries,
+enthralled by his pupil the fairy Viviana, who has cast a spell upon her
+master she knows not how to break.
+
+Montfort, where we joined the railway, is celebrated for the legend of the
+duck and its ducklings, and was the residence of the De Montfort family
+until Guy Comte de Laval and Sire de Montfort married Fran�oise de Dinan,
+widow of the unfortunate Gilles de Bretagne, when the Montforts left their
+paternal demesne for the ch�teaux of Laval, Vitr�, and Ch�teaubriant.
+
+The railway took us to Rennes, an uninteresting modern French town, the
+old town was burnt down in 1720, and straight streets have risen up, with
+no traces of its having been once the ancient capital of Brittany. Indeed,
+so French is it altogether, that the saying runs--"Bon Breton de Vannes,
+bon Fran�ais de Rennes." It was here that Constance, heiress of the duchy,
+held her court, with Geoffrey Plantagenet, who, with their unfortunate son
+Arthur, were the only Plantagenets, dukes of Brittany. On the murder of
+Arthur, his sister Alice carried the ducal crown to her husband, Pierre de
+Dreux (called Mauclerc, from his animosity to the clergy), and from them
+descended the dukes of Brittany down to Queen Anne, whose double marriage
+conveyed the duchy to France and the Valois.
+
+When Henry IV. made his solemn entry into Rennes, the Governor presented
+him with the three silver-gilt keys of the city, of rich workmanship; upon
+which the King observed, "Elles �taient belles, mais qu'il aimait mieux
+les clefs des coeurs des habitants."
+
+The following year we made a tour along the banks of the Loire, and at
+Angers embarked on board the steamer for Nantes. The scenery down the
+Loire is rich, and the hills covered with vineyards, islands planted with
+willows, and sunny villages, or occasionally a gloomy fortress comes to
+view. Ingrandes is the frontier town, half in Anjou and half in Brittany,
+between the modern departments of Loire Inf�rieure and Maine-et-Loire.
+Lower down is St. Florent (Maine-et-Loire), with its recollections of the
+wonderful passage of the Loire by the Vendean army, so graphically related
+by Madame de la Rochejacquelin, and near the island of Meilleraie, where
+their brave General Bonchamps expired, after the fatal engagement of
+Chollet; his last act being the saving the lives of four thousand
+prisoners shut up in the church, and about to be executed by the
+exasperated Vendeans. "Gr�ce aux prisonniers" were his dying words.
+Opposite St. Florent is Varades, where the Vendeans landed after crossing
+the Loire. Only a feeble post opposed them. Had the republicans lost less
+time, and sent a force after their victory at Chollet, much calamity would
+have been spared to Brittany, and the Royalists themselves would have been
+saved the terrible defeats of Le Mans and Savenay.
+
+Passing Ancenis, which rises in an amphitheatre on the vine-clothed hills,
+and, with its suspension-bridge, is one of the most picturesque points in
+the river, we reached Oudon, with its tall octagonal tower; on the left,
+in the department of Maine-et-Loire, nearly opposite, stands the ruined
+castle of Champtoceaux, where Duke John V. was kept a prisoner by the
+implacable enemies of his house, the Penthi�vre family.
+
+Marguerite de Clisson, widow of Jean de Bretagne, Comte de Penthi�vre,
+lived in retirement in her stately fortress of Champtoceaux, with her
+three sons, Oliver, Count of Blois, and his brothers. Marguerite inherited
+the pride, hatred, and cruelty, of her father, without his chivalrous
+loyalty and magnanimity. The kingdom was filled with troubles, and she
+thought it a favourable moment for reviving the pretensions of her family.
+John V. held his court at Nantes. She sent Oliver there to assure the Duke
+that his mother and brother were ready to do him homage; and he swore, on
+his own part, "de le servir envers et contre tous ceux qui peuvent vivre
+et mourir." John, delighted, made the young man share his bed, and treated
+him with the greatest distinction. Oliver expressed his regret that the
+age and infirmities of his mother prevented her going to court, and
+timidly insinuated the honour she would feel at a visit from the Duke. The
+Duke consented, and, sending off his plate to Champtoceaux, started with
+his brother-in-law, Count Oliver, and his attendants. Having passed the
+little river which separates Anjou from Brittany, they saw a man throwing
+the planks of the bridge into the water, and thus preventing the Duke's
+suite from following. At the same time, Charles de Penthi�vre, Margaret's
+second son, issued suddenly from a wood with an escort of lances and
+surrounded the Duke. There was no kind of indignity they did not make him
+suffer. He was tied upon his horse like a criminal, and conducted first to
+Clisson, Oliver leading him with a halter round his neck. The Penthi�vres,
+who would not let the place be guessed where they held their captive,
+conducted him at night, sometimes on foot, from fortress to fortress, from
+dungeon to dungeon; at the same time circulating the report that they had
+drowned him in the Loire. As a last insult, they took him to Champtoceaux,
+where Marguerite visited him in prison to exult over his misfortunes.
+Meantime the Breton barons, indignant at the treason of which their
+Sovereign was the victim, raised an army for his deliverance, and civil
+war broke out with redoubled fury. His heroic wife, Jeanne de France,
+showed an untiring energy to save him. Undaunted by the threats of the
+Penthi�vres,--who sent word to her, if she did not desist from hostilities
+they would cut her husband in pieces, nor by the messages from the Duke
+himself assuring her that her zeal would cost him his life,--she induced
+her brother, the Dauphin, to order the Penthi�vres not to attempt the life
+of their prisoner; she besieged, one after the other, all their castles,
+and at last compelled Marguerite to capitulate to save her own life.
+Finding herself and family in a perilous position, Marguerite agreed that
+the Duke should be released (he was at Clisson), and that she and her sons
+should retire where they wished, on their promise to appear at the summons
+of the Breton nobles. Immediately on his liberation, Duke John ordered the
+destruction of Champtoceaux. A parliament assembled at Vannes in 1424,
+condemned Marguerite and her sons to capital punishment, and declared all
+the Penthi�vre possessions to be forfeited to the State. But the culprits
+had all escaped the kingdom, except the youngest son, William, a child
+only ten years of age, who had been given as a hostage for the appearance
+of his mother and brothers, and was condemned to languish for twenty-seven
+years in prison, where he lost his eyesight--a victim to crimes in which he
+had not been an accomplice. John had made a vow, during his detention, to
+give, if he regained his liberty, to the church of Notre Dame at Nantes,
+his weight in gold; and most conscientiously did he perform his promise,
+for we read, "He placed himself in his war armour in the balance, and
+caused the opposite scale to be filled with gold till it had attained the
+weight of the first; that is to say, three hundred and eighty marks, seven
+ounces"--which sum was delivered over to the church. Vows of this nature
+are not unfrequently recorded. When Don Carlos, the ill-fated son of
+Philip II., lay ill, he vowed to give to the Virgin, on his recovery, four
+times his weight in gold plate, and seven times his weight in silver. The
+vow was fulfilled; but the Prince was placed in the scale in a damask robe
+and fur coat, and weighed only seventy-six pounds--so much was he reduced
+by his long illness.
+
+Nantes is a cheerful, busy, handsome city, but wanting in the picturesque
+characteristics of the towns of Lower Brittany. Quimper, Vannes, Rennes,
+and Nantes, have all been successively capitals of the duchy, but Nantes
+was the usual residence of its dukes.
+
+The cathedral contains its principal artistic monument, the tomb of Duke
+Francis II. and his second wife, Marguerite de Foix, called "sein de lys,"
+from the beauty of her complexion. It was erected by their daughter, the
+Queen-Duchess Anne, and was executed by Michel Colomb, a sculptor of St.
+Pol de L�on, originally a herd-boy. This monument, considered a
+masterpiece of the Renaissance, is not copied from any Italian original,
+but is entirely the offspring of the artist's own fancy. There is much
+simplicity in its design and execution. The tomb, about five feet high, is
+of white marble, diapered with ermine and the letter F. On a black slab
+repose the effigies of the Duke and Duchess, and at their feet are lying a
+lion and a greyhound, holding their several escutcheons. Four large
+allegorical figures are at each angle of the tomb, representing the
+cardinal virtues. Justice carries the book of the laws, and the sword by
+which she makes them respected. This figure is said to be the portrait of
+the Duchess Anne. Temperance, in a monastic dress, is characterised by a
+bit and a lantern. Prudence, double faced, holds a mirror and a compass,
+and has a serpent at her feet. This figure is in the costume of a peasant
+girl of St. Pol; the second face, that of an old man, is also in the dress
+of Lower Brittany. Strength or Fortitude, handsome, resolute, and calm,
+strangles a dragon with his grasp.
+
+Upon the principal sides of the tomb are the twelve Apostles, and below,
+in niches, sixteen mourners (pleureuses) in monastic habits, the faces and
+hands white, the rest of the body black. The beautiful attitude of these
+figures is much admired. Some are kneeling, others are seated--all in the
+attitude and expression of prayer. This monument was originally in the
+church of the Carmelites, whence it was transferred to the cathedral.
+
+Besides the remains of Duke Francis and his two wives, it formerly
+contained the heart of his daughter, the Queen-Duchess Anne, enshrined in
+a golden case in the form of a heart, surmounted by a crown, and
+surrounded by a cordeli�re; but the tomb was rifled during the Reign of
+Terror. It now holds the remains of the Constable Duke Arthur III.
+
+Duke John IV. also died at Nantes, after his long eventful reign, having
+acquired a military glory which earned him the name of Conqueror, and
+equalled that of Du Guesclin and Clisson. Twice he lost and twice he
+regained his crown. He alienated Du Guesclin and his faithful subjects by
+his partiality to England. The Bretons rose, and he fled to Edward III.;
+but when Charles V. entered the duchy, with the intention of confiscating
+it to the crown of France, the Bretons all united to defend their
+nationality against the ambition of the French King, and recalled their
+Sovereign. So great was the enthusiasm on his arrival at St. Malo, that
+the nobles plunged into the water to approach his ship; and even the widow
+of his rival, Charles of Blois, went to welcome him. His cowardly attempt
+against the Constable Clisson again compromised his reputation, and was
+disgracefully avenged upon his son by the implacable daughter of Clisson.
+
+The old ducal castle still rises on the left bank of the river. It was
+here Anne of Brittany was born, and here she married, 1499, her old
+admirer, the chivalrous Duke of Orleans, then King Louis XII., according
+to her stipulation, that the King, "viendra l'espouser en sa maison de
+Nantes." Left at the age of eleven, by the death of her father, a prey to
+claimants to her hand, which carried with it the powerful duchy of
+Brittany, Anne was a prize worth a king's seeking, even at a time when
+there were so many other rich heiresses undisposed of--Mary of Burgundy,
+Elizabeth of York, Isabella of Castille, and Catherine de Foix. Anne is
+described as handsome, but slightly lame, generous, and gentle, but grave
+and proud in her demeanour. Louis XII. called her his "fi�re Bretonne,"
+and allowed her the uncontrolled government of Brittany, "tout ainsi que
+si elle n'estoit point sa femme."
+
+Though the wife of two Kings of France, Anne never forgot the interests of
+her duchy, whose nationality she always strove to maintain with the
+pertinacity of a true Breton, and showed herself, by her spirit and
+independence, to be the most worthy of all her race to wear the ducal
+crown. Jean Marot addresses her as "Royne incomparable, deux fois
+devinement sacr�e, Anne Duchesse de Bretagne."
+
+Like most of the ladies of her age, Anne was an accomplished linguist. She
+understood Latin and Greek, and most of the European languages. She
+corresponded with her husband in Latin verse. Her letters, still extant,
+breathe the most tender affection. One, written to him (1499) during the
+Italian wars, begins, "Une �pouse tendre et ch�rie �crit � son �poux
+encore plus ch�ri, l'objet � la fois de ses regrets et de son estime,
+conduit par la gloire loin de sa patrie. Amante infortun�e, il n'est pour
+elle aucun instant sans alarmes. Quel malheur affreux que celui d'�tre
+priv� d'un Prince que l'on aime, d'un Prince plus amant qu'�poux."
+
+It was in this castle that Henry IV. signed his celebrated Edict of
+Nantes, so fatally revoked by Louis XIV.
+
+The Duc de Mercoeur, when governor of Brittany, made Nantes a regular
+fortified town. Having married Marie de Luxembourg, heiress of the house
+of Penthi�vre, he sought to secure to himself the duchy of Brittany, while
+his brother, the Duke de Guise, aimed at the crown of France. Head of the
+League in that province, he looked upon it as a means of attaining his
+end: his wife joined him in his plans of ambition, and they by turns
+tyrannized and caressed the Nantais, amusing them with f�tes, in which the
+Duchess condescended to dance with the townsfolk. For twenty years Mercoeur
+held the province; but a peace was eventually signed between him and Henry
+IV., through the mediation of Gabrielle d'Estr�es, whose son C�sar de
+Vend�me, then four years of age, was affianced to the Duke de Mercoeur's
+daughter, then only six.  When Henry IV. made his entry into Nantes after
+the pacification, he observed, on surveying the fortifications, "Ventre
+Saint Gris, les Ducs de Bretagne n'�taient pas de petits compagnons."
+
+Nantes has been the scene of many an act of vengeance on the part of the
+Kings of France.
+
+The Place du Bouffay, the place of execution, was the scene of the tragic
+death of the young Henri de Talleyrand, Comte de Chalais, executed by
+Louis XIII. for his part in the conspiracy which bears his name. Its
+object was the death of the Cardinal, and to place the crown on the head
+of the feeble Gaston, who was celebrating his marriage at Nantes at the
+time that his victim Chalais was paying the penalty of his crime.
+
+The restless, intriguing Cardinal de Retz was imprisoned in Nantes Castle
+during the minority of Louis XIV., and made a wonderful escape by letting
+himself down from the walls to the river, where a boat awaited him. It was
+also at Nantes that the same monarch caused Fouquet to be arrested, not,
+as alleged, for his malpractices in office, but because his ambition and
+pomp offended the pride of his royal master.
+
+For their part in the conspiracy of Cellamare, the Marquis de Poncallec
+and three other Breton gentlemen suffered on the Place du Bouffay, and the
+Vendean chief, La Charette, was also there shot in 1795.
+
+Not far from the castle is the Rue Haute du Ch�teau. At the Maison Juigny,
+in this street, the Duchesse de Berri was arrested, after having remained
+sixteen hours concealed in an aperture behind a chimney on the third
+floor, scarcely a foot and a half high and four feet long. The police,
+having information of her being in the house, through the treachery of a
+Jew, had made a fruitless search, but had left a watch behind. The
+soldiers lighted a fire in the chimney, and the Duchess, with her three
+attendants, sallied out, her dress completely scorched. They had endured
+the heat, but were unable to bear the suffocation.
+
+Nantes has some fine promenades and boulevards, planted with trees. In the
+Cours Saint Pierre and St. Andr� are statues of the Duchess Anne and of
+the three Breton constables, Du Guesclin, Clisson, and Richmont.
+
+One of the leading characteristics of Nantes is its numerous bridges: a
+regular chain of them form a continuous line across the river and canals,
+and others unite the islands which form the suburbs to the town itself.
+
+The Museum contains a large collection of pictures, which the bequest of
+the Duke de Feltre (Mar�chal Clarke) has increased considerably. These
+consist mostly of sketches by Paul Delaroche, and the charming Italian
+subjects of L�opold Robert.
+
+"L'enfant charitable"--a nun on her deathbed embracing a child who is
+standing by her side, an angel behind--is a touching composition of Ary
+Sch�effer. Another, by Paul Baudry, represents the death of Marat:
+Charlotte Corday's open, handsome face, looks incapable of the crime she
+has just perpetrated. There is one by Ziegler--Daniel in the lion's den--an
+angel staying the lions from molesting him. The atmosphere of light
+surrounding the angel is wonderful and unearthly. These two are in the
+general collection, together with numerous examples of the old masters.
+
+Near our hotel is one of the curiosities of Nantes, the Passage de la
+Pommeraye, consisting of three stories of iron galleries or arcades,
+uniting the Rue de Cr�billon with the Rue de la Fosse. The second arcade
+communicates by a flight of stairs with the third, called the Galerie de
+la Fosse, opening upon the street of that name.
+
+The Garden of Plants is beautifully laid out; groves and avenues of
+magnolias in full flower, with rocks, waterfalls, rustic bridges, all most
+picturesquely disposed, making it one of the prettiest gardens and public
+promenades in France.
+
+We descended the Loire by steamer, passing by vast granite buildings,
+built as magazines for colonial imports, called Les Salorges, in front of
+which the horrible noyades of Carrier took place, and these warehouses
+served as a temporary place of confinement for the victims. We next
+steamed past the island of Indret, the great manufacture of steam-engines
+for the State. Here we landed some market women, in caps of the same form,
+with high combs, as those of clear muslin worn by the Nantaises, only of a
+coarse material, and edged with black. On the right was Cou�ron, where
+Duke Francis II. died in consequence of a fall from his horse. The battle
+of St. Aubin-du-Cormier had decided his fate and that of his daughters,--a
+humiliation from which he never recovered. His faithful friend Rieux, who
+commanded his army, defeated by the youthful Louis de la Tr�mouille; the
+chivalrous Louis of Orleans, a prisoner in an iron cage in the "Grosse
+Tour" at Bourges; and the safety of his daughters at the mercy of King
+Charles VIII., or worse, of his imperious sister, the Regent Anne de
+Beaujeu, who would have committed some act of spoliation, had not the
+Chancellor Rochefort saved the duchy by his integrity, declaring to Anne
+that "a conqueror without right is but an illustrious robber."
+
+At Les Pellerins, barges were loading with hay, and heaps of it standing
+on the river's edge ready for embarkation. On the left bank is Paimboeuf,
+where diligences run to Pornic, a favourite little watering-place south of
+the Loire.
+
+St. Nazaire is a bustling seaport town, now the point of departure of the
+transatlantic steamers for the West Indies and Mexico. A Mexican, in his
+picturesque costume, all the seams of his dress fringed with hanging
+silver buttons, was living in the same hotel with ourselves. St. Nazaire
+has now a large floating basin, opened in 1858, capable of holding 200
+ships of large size, and another is in course of construction.
+
+It was from St. Nazaire that Prince Charles, the young Pretender, sailed
+on the adventurous expedition of '45, furnished with a frigate and a ship
+of the line by Mr. Walsh, of Nantes. Among the noble cavaliers who had
+sacrificed everything to follow the Stuarts into exile was the Walsh
+family, originally from Ireland. They had shared the wandering fortunes of
+Charles II., returned with him at the Restoration to find the greater part
+of their property confiscated; but they did not hesitate to sacrifice the
+rest when James II. abdicated the throne, and a Walsh commanded the ship
+which carried the King to France. Sent on a secret mission to England, he
+was recognized, denounced, and arrested. James II. created him an Earl at
+St. Germain. Two of his sons had retired to St. Malo and Nantes, and
+engaged in commercial speculations, endeavouring thereby to restore the
+fortunes of their house. Commerce was strictly forbidden to the Breton
+nobles; but, when war or misfortune had reduced their fortunes, they were
+allowed to enter into commerce, or any other profession, without
+derogating from their rank, provided they first deposited their swords
+with the Parliament, to be again claimed when their circumstances were
+improved. All will remember the anecdote in the 'Sentimental Journey.' As
+a book, called 'The State of Nobility in Brittany,' published in 1681,
+sets forth: "When nobles are engaged in commerce, their noble blood
+sleeps; but when the derogatory works are over, it revives. It is never
+lost but in death." But to return to the Walsh family. One of the brothers
+had embarked the remains of his little fortune in the business of
+"armateur"--a kind of shipowner, or one who fits out and charters ships,
+and sometimes commands them himself--the profession of Jean Bart and Duguay
+Trouin.(23) It was to this Anthony Walsh, and a banker of Dunkirk, that
+Prince Charles addressed himself to fit out an old worm-eaten seventy-gun
+man-of-war, the 'Elizabeth,' they had just obtained from Government for
+his expedition. True to the hereditary loyalty of his family, Mr. Walsh
+not only devoted all he possessed to the armament of the frigate, but also
+fitted out a brig, called the 'Doutelle'--both intended as privateers to
+cruise against the English--and took the command of her himself. On the
+28th June, 1745, furnished with about 4000l. of money, Charles Edward
+embarked on the Loire, in a fisherman's boat, to join the 'Doutelle' at
+St. Nazaire, and the 'Elizabeth' at Belle-Isle. He passed for a young
+Irish priest, and wore the habit of a student of the Scots' College at
+Paris. The ships encountered an English man-of-war, the 'Lion.' At the
+sound of the first shot, the Prince rushed on deck and asked for a sword.
+Mr. Walsh, by virtue of his authority as captain, took him by the arm and
+said to him sternly, "M. Abb�, your place is not here; go below with the
+passengers." The Prince obeyed, night separated the combatants, and on the
+18th of July he was safely landed in Scotland. On Michaelmas Day, the
+following year, the disasters of Culloden again threw him an exile on the
+shores of Brittany.
+
+From St. Nazaire we took a carriage for Gu�rande, to visit that remarkable
+district called the Canton de Croisic, and consisting chiefly of that
+place and the Bourg de Batz. We first came to Escoublac, a corruption of
+Episcopi lacus, deriving its name from a lake belonging to the bishop of
+the diocese.
+
+The old town has been entirely buried by the moving sands which have blown
+over it, and, in 1779, its inhabitants transferred their houses to the
+present site. Hills of sand surround it in every direction.
+
+Here we left the high road, and turned off to the left to Poulignan, a
+little white bay, as its name implies; a charming retreat, with beautiful
+white sands and picturesque rocks. This is a favourite watering-place with
+the Nantais. Its whole population appeared to be in the water. A row of
+small wooden ch�lets are built along the shore for the bathers, no
+machines are used.
+
+From Escoublac begins the large extent of salt-pans in which consist the
+riches of this country. They reach to Batz and Le Croisic, the peninsula
+which forms this district having formerly been an island which gradually
+has been transformed into a marsh.
+
+[Illustration: 44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.]
+
+These salt-pans, cut out into small squares, have the appearance of one
+great chess-board, interspersed with occasional hamlets and woods. The
+working of them employs the whole population of the district.
+
+They consist of large basins, dug at different depths, into which the
+water of the sea is introduced, and are divided into squares called
+"oeillets." The salt-water is turned upon the marsh by canals styled
+"�tiers," edged with narrow paths or roads called "bossis," elevated, some
+of them, three or four feet above the marsh; on these the newly collected
+salt is generally laid. The water passes by a subterranean conduit, the
+"co�f," into the "vasi�re," where the first evaporation takes place; and
+then successively into the "cobiers," "fares," and "adernem�tres," until
+it flows finally into the "oeillets," where the salt is definitively
+formed. Each "oeillet" is about 20 feet by 30.  The heat of the sun and the
+wind effect the evaporation, which the paludier assists by stirring the
+water from time to time. The salt which forms on the surface resembles a
+kind of white cream, and exhales an agreeable perfume resembling violets.
+This is the finest salt; that which falls to the bottom of the salt-pan is
+of a greyish cast. The salt when formed is then scraped off, drained, and
+the women collect it and stack it on the "bossis" into conical heaps,
+which they cover with a coating of clay, to render them impervious to
+weather. In the salting season, the salt marshes with their innumerable
+hillocks of white salt have the appearance of a vast tent-covered camp.
+Each "oeillet" produces about 150 lbs. of salt. The same salt-pans are
+worked from century to century by the same "paludiers" or their
+descendants. The proprietors may change, but the workmen remain,
+considering the salt-pans their prescriptive inheritance. For payment,
+they receive one-fourth of the salt. The dress of the paludier is a
+smock-frock of irreproachable whiteness, with pockets, white shoes,
+gaiters, and linen breeches, an enormous black flap hat turned up on the
+side in a point or horn. The young man wears the point over the ear, the
+married turns it behind, and the widower in front. We reached the Bourg de
+Batz in time for vespers, and had an opportunity of seeing the people in
+their Sunday dress. The men wear three or four cloth waistcoats, all of
+different lengths, so as to let the various colours, red, white, and blue,
+with which they are bound, appear one above the other in tiers, a muslin
+turnover collar, full plaited breeches of fine cloth tied at the knee by
+garters of floating ribbon, white woollen stockings with worked clocks and
+light yellow shoes, their flap hats ornamented with a roll of chenille of
+varied colours. The headdress of the women is singular and most intricate.
+The hair, in two rolls, twisted round with white tape, forms a kind of
+coronet across their heads; over this, a piece of net is drawn tight,
+forming a sort of cap, describing a peak behind, and crossing in front
+like a handkerchief.
+
+[Illustration: 45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.]
+
+The dress consists of several petticoats of cloth plaited, red body,
+turned-up sleeves, and large coloured bibs or plastrons which they call
+"pi�ces," of the same stuff as their dresses. The girls' aprons are plain,
+without pockets, but the women's are of coloured silk, some of a rich
+brocade. A shawl with fringed border completes the costume. Some of the
+women had their heads and shoulders wrapped up in a triangular, black,
+shaggy sheepskin mantle; these were widows.
+
+At the inn where we alighted, they keep the splendid costumes worn by the
+people at weddings and other great occasions; and, by paying them for
+their trouble, they will put them on for inspection. The bride's costumes
+are of great magnificence; they array themselves in three different
+dresses on their wedding-day. First, a gown of white velvet, with apron of
+moire antique; secondly, one of violet velvet; and the third equally
+costly. Embroidered sleeves, the "pi�ce" of cloth of gold, the petticoats
+looped up with a wide sash, embroidered in gold, and gold clocks to the
+stockings.
+
+[Illustration: 46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.]
+
+We were shown a state bed, or "lit de mariage," a tall four-post, painted
+red, with green reps tester and curtains, embroidered with yellow
+chenille. The great sign of wealth is to have the bedding reach to the top
+of the bedstead.  To effect this, the base is formed of bundles of
+vine-stalks, over which is spread the straw, and when this scaffolding has
+been raised some feet, a paillasse is placed over it, then the
+feather-bed, so that it literally requires a ladder to ascend to the top
+of this mountain of bedding, and then it is difficult to crawl into it.
+There were a bolster and two pillows covered with velvet, which, with the
+sheets, were all trimmed with a kind of lace or cutwork.
+
+The houses are solidly built of granite, and slated; the windows large.
+The furniture is good, generally comprising a well-waxed carved oak
+armoire, upon which are arranged earthenware plates of various colours.
+
+The paludiers of Batz preserve their original type distinct from the
+peasants of the environs; and form, like the Jews, a separate people,
+intermarrying among themselves, retaining their own peculiar manners and
+customs. They are supposed to descend from a Saxon colony. The paludier is
+tall in stature; their women remarkable for their fair complexions, which
+contrast strongly with their sunburnt neighbours. They are loyal and
+devout, true to their word, courageous and enduring; though the paludier
+is miserably poor, from the oppressiveness of the salt-tax, he never
+complains. Begging is unknown. Their food consists of rye bread, porridge
+of black corn, potatoes, and shellfish. They are sober, and drink wine in
+small quantities.
+
+Formerly the salt was distributed over the adjacent provinces by means of
+"saulniers," the journeymen labourers of the paludiers. Dressed in their
+picturesque costume, with a train of mules, whose tinkling bells announced
+their arrival, the saulnier was welcomed in every village where he sold
+his salt or exchanged it for other merchandize. "Le sucre des pauvres," as
+salt has been aptly called, was severely taxed under the old r�gime;
+distributions of the "sel royale" were yearly made by the Government among
+the gentry of the provinces, but the poor, who had no such privileges,
+severely felt the oppression, and smuggling was consequently extensively
+carried on, and the "faux saulnier," with his double bag across his
+shoulders, secretly sold salt upon which the gabelle had not been paid.
+With a faux saulnier originated the great peasant rising in Brittany, the
+Chouan war; a war to which Napoleon said, "All preceding wars have been
+but games." Jean, father of the four brothers Cottereau, was a maker of
+wooden shoes, and lived in a forest near Laval (Maine). From his solitary
+life he had acquired such sombre, wild, melancholy habits, that people
+gave him the name of Chouan, Maine patois for Chat-huant, and his family
+received the sobriquet long before the insurrection of 1792. Jean
+Cottereau was the most celebrated faux saulnier of Maine; he had
+accidentally killed a revenue officer in one of his encounters, and his
+heroic mother made a journey to Versailles, barefooted, "sur le cuir de
+ses pieds," to obtain his pardon. Jean's master and patron was
+guillotined, his two sisters shared the same fate, and one of his brothers
+died of his wounds, and his body was disinterred by the Revolutionists.
+These personal wrongs, the treatment of the King, the interdiction of the
+Catholic religion, its processions, its bells, the persecution of its
+ministers, all goaded the Breton peasantry to revolt; and Jean was the
+first to fire a gun against a Republican at the cry of "Vive le Roi." The
+rising began with a few peasants, armed with a gun or a stick, dressed in
+short breeches open at the knee, with leather gaiters, and coloured
+garters; their long hair streaming over the shoulders, their heads covered
+with a wide-brimmed hat, or brown or red cap, sabots tipped with iron,
+and, in cold weather, a loose coat of goatskin. The Chouans assembled in
+small bands and attacked the Republicans at night in ambuscade, and when
+they had killed a few "Bleus" disappeared among the corn-fields or the
+furze-bushes. Simple peasants, they fought against the Republicans in
+defence of the altar and the throne. Their "commandements" ran thus:--
+
+
+    "Ton Dieu, ton Roy, tu serviras
+    Jusqu'� la mort fid�lement.
+    Docile � tes chefs tu seras,
+    Afin de vaincre surement.
+    Sobre et discret te montreras,
+    Buvant peu, parlant rarement;
+    De ton chef jamais n'agiras
+    Attendant le commandement;
+    Violemment rien ne prendras,
+    Mais en payant exactement.
+    Age et sexe respecteras,
+    Etant soldat et non brigand.
+    Les comit�s corrigeras,
+    Et les mouchards chr�tiennement;
+    N� Breton, tu n'oublieras,
+    Afin d'agir loyalement.
+    Dans le succ�s clement seras;
+    Dans le malheur, ferme et constant.
+    Chaque jour ton Dieu tu prieras;
+    Que peux tu sans son bras puissant?"
+
+
+Such were the first Chouans: they had no organisation until they followed
+Larochejaquelin and the Vendean army to Granville, and accompanied them in
+their retreat; when their numbers were materially increased and their
+character completely changed by the deserters and brigands, who joined and
+eventually succeeded the peasantry.
+
+The church of Batz is of cut stone. It has a square tower, surmounted by a
+cupola steeple, which with that of Le Croisic serves as a landmark to
+vessels having to steer between the two dangerous rocks Le Four, in front
+of Le Croisic, and Les Blanches, situated near the mouth of the Loire.
+
+The choir is inclined, like that of St. Pol and others in Brittany. On one
+of the bosses in the interior is a grotesque carving of a man torn to
+pieces by the seven capital sins. On others are the Santa Veronica, the
+Good Shepherd, Ste. Barbara, &c. Near the church are the pretty ruins of
+the chapel of Notre Dame-du-M�rier.
+
+We drove on to Le Croisic, in Breton, "Little Cross;" so called from the
+small chapel of the Crucifix, built to commemorate the baptism by St.
+Felix, Bishop of Nantes, in the sixth century, of the Saxon colony who
+occupied the peninsula. Le Croisic was one of the first towns in Brittany
+which received Christianity, and bears for its arms a cross between four
+ermines. Along the road-side are cisterns or wells dug in the sand, and
+girls were filling with water the classical stone pitchers they carried
+upon their heads--quite an Eastern picture, suggestive of Rebecca and the
+damsels of her country. Le Croisic is almost surrounded by the sea, low,
+and without shelter, which renders it cold, damp, and exposed to the
+winds; turf is almost the only fuel used.
+
+It is much frequented as a watering-place, and has an Etablissement. It is
+also a sea-port, with a rocky entrance to the harbour, and the dangerous
+rock with its lighthouse, called Le Four, extending for a league in front.
+The inhabitants of Le Croisic are principally engaged in the sardine
+fishery, and the curing of these fish consumes much of the salt of the
+marshes. The people complain this year they have no large orders for
+sardines, and there is but little white salt.
+
+The chapel of St. Goustan, on the edge of the harbour, is singularly
+built; its western gable perched upon a little rock, half of which is
+inside and half outside the building. The church is no longer open for
+Divine service; but the peasant-girl who desires to know if she will be
+married this year, tries to pass a pin through the bars of the northern
+window without touching the wall. On the opposite side of the estuary are
+P�riac and La Turbale, both seats of the sardine fishery. Returning the
+way we came, we stopped at the Plage Valentin, another bathing-place in a
+pretty little bay; with dressing-rooms and a small Etablissement. An
+omnibus conveys the bathers from Le Croisic, for two sous. The sea looks
+more inviting here and at Poulignan than at Le Croisic, where there is so
+much seaweed in the harbour. We returned through Batz; the cathedral tower
+of Saint Aubin at Gu�rande is to be seen at a great distance, and is a
+prominent object in the scenery; the whole country is covered with
+salt-pans. Gu�rande stands on a height, and turning back, the view of the
+whole district is most extensive. We passed through Saill�, where Duke
+John IV. married Joan of Navarre, afterwards the second wife of Henry of
+Lancaster.
+
+Gu�rande, built on a vine-covered granite slope, is a singular old feudal
+town of the fifteenth century. It was fortified by Duke John V., and is
+nearly surrounded by granite walls, with ten towers and four old gateways,
+placed at the cardinal points of the compass. St. Michel, the principal
+gate, or rather a fortress, is flanked by two high towers, and contains
+the prison, archives, and h�tel de ville. A moat formerly surrounded the
+walls; but it has long been filled in, and boulevards substituted. From
+the battlements hang festoons of honeysuckle and ivy, and the moat is full
+of the yellow iris and water-lilies; nevertheless, Gu�rande has an
+austere, sombre aspect. There is a fine terrace walk, called the Mail,
+commanding a view of the whole country over Poulignan, Batz, and Le
+Croisic--a tented plain of salt.
+
+[Illustration: 47. La Roche Bernard.]
+
+The church of St. Aubin has Romanesque columns, with grotesque capitals.
+In one, two persons are sawing a third, stretched upon a wheel. On the
+left of the double-arched porch, is a pulpit outside the church, and there
+is some good painted glass within. Notre Dame Blanche, a chapel of the
+fourteenth century, is a pretty little building with stone pulpit and a
+sculptured group of Notre Dame-de-la-Salette with the two peasant children
+of Alsace. Next day, we took a private carriage for La Roche Bernard; the
+road lying over a wide extent of land through Herbignac to La Roche
+Bernard (Morbihan), which is most picturesquely situated on a rocky height
+overhanging the Vilaine, here traversed by an elegant suspension-bridge,
+opened in 1839, about 666 feet long and above 108 feet above high-water
+mark--a terrible dizzy height to cross even in calm weather. A few years
+since, the postman, his cart, and horse were all blown over into the
+river, and nothing more was ever heard of them. We went fishing several
+days in a large �tang close to La Roche Bernard, and one evening took a
+pretty walk over the hills to another pond situated in a lovely secluded
+valley near a water-mill. La Roche Bernard was an early Protestant colony,
+founded by the Sieur d'Andelot, Seigneur of La Roche Bernard, brother to
+Admiral Coligny, and one of the firmest supporters of Calvinism. The
+Calvinists used to assemble at his ch�teau of Bretesch, where the minister
+of La Roche Bernard came to preach to them. D'Andelot and his sister, who
+was equally zealous in the cause, are, it is said, interred at La Roche
+Bernard. Near the Halles is a square block of houses; one of timber, with
+"Voie au Duc" inscribed upon it. These houses are said to have belonged to
+a Protestant community, and all to communicate with each other.
+
+The evening of our arrival there was a wedding supper given at our hotel,
+the grand dinner having taken place elsewhere. The bride wore a white
+sash, with wreaths of white flowers round her Nantais cap. After supper
+the party danced Breton "ronds." The dancers form a large ring (grand
+rond), holding each other's hands, which they swing violently as they
+sidle round in a kind of hop-skip-and-a-jump step, accompanied by singing
+in a most monotonous tone. This went on until midnight. This kind of dance
+dates, they say, from Celtic times. The music consists of the biniou or
+bagpipe, and the flageolet or hautboy, sometimes with the addition of a
+drum. The biniou, cornemuse, or bagpipe, is the national instrument of
+western and southern France. How it came to be introduced into Scotland
+and expel the harp--which was as much the original music of Scotland as of
+Wales and Ireland--is a mystery. But, as in the sixteenth century the harp
+went out and the bagpipes came into fashion, it may be surmised that it
+was brought in, with other French novelties, on the return of Queen Mary,
+perhaps by the Queen herself, or, maybe, some itinerant player of the
+cornemuse may have accidentally been in her train, and his music set a
+fashion which has now become national.
+
+On market-day numbers of the women from Muzillac, a place about ten miles
+distant, came in with their fruit. They all wear an enormous plaited black
+cap, which looks like the cowl of a friar. The graceful form of the
+earthenware pots attracted our attention: probably they came from the
+adjacent town of Herbignac. The 15th August, F�te de la Vierge, and also
+that of the Emperor, was kept as a general holiday. An immense concourse
+of people arrived from the neighbourhood, and attended the six o'clock
+mass. We walked to the quay, to see the sports on the water; the
+spectators picturesquely grouped on a mass of bare rocks, commanding a
+pretty view up and down the river.
+
+The amusements consisted of some races, and a m�t de cocagne, or greased
+pole, placed horizontally over the river; the feat being to walk safely to
+the end, where the prize was fixed, without falling into the water. In the
+evening "ronds" were danced, and every house had illuminations, in the
+shape of a candle stuck in a potato, and placed on each end of the window
+sill.
+
+Next day we left by diligence for Vannes, passing through Muzillac and on
+to Auray, where we took the steamer for Belle Isle.
+
+A steamer sails daily from the quay at Auray. The banks of the River Loch
+are very picturesque, the pine-trees (_Pinus maritima_) growing to the
+water's edge. On the left, the islands of the Morbihan; on the right,
+Locmariaker; the view extending to Carnac and Mont St. Michel, over the
+whole sweep of the bay formed by the peninsula of Quiberon.
+
+At Port Navalo we emerged from the Morbihan, and, on our right, passed the
+little rocky island of Teigneuse, with its lighthouse; and, on the left,
+those of Houat and Haedik (the duck and the duckling); the former famous
+as the retreat of St. Gildas, who leaped from here with one bound, a
+distance of ten miles, to the peninsula of Rhuys, where he built his
+monastery. From Auray to Belle Isle is in all forty-eight miles--ten miles
+of river to Port Navalo, the rest open sea. After eight hours' sail we
+reached Le Palais, the port and principal town of Belle Isle, built on the
+north-east side, and overhung by the citadel, the work of Vauban. The town
+consists of one principal street--the Rue Trochu--so called after the
+General of that name and his brother, who were the first, at the beginning
+of this century, to introduce agriculture into the island. We passed, at a
+distance to the right, the model farm of M. Trochu fils, on our way across
+the island to the lighthouse,--a cheerless drive, as there are no trees to
+be seen except near Le Palais. When M. Trochu commenced his labours,
+agriculture was little attended to in France, but he persevered in his
+exertions, beginning by clearing about sixty acres of granite rock, a land
+covered with heath and furze, setting at defiance the Breton saying,
+"Lande tu fus, lande tu es, lande tu seras." This same district is now
+covered with rich meadows, fine woods, productive arable fields, and
+magnificent pasture land, on which horses are extensively reared.
+
+[Illustration: 48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.]
+
+We gathered on the heathy moor three kinds of heath, the Cornish among
+others. The artichoke grows wild in the waste grounds. Wheat, turnips,
+beetroot, Indian corn, and potatoes, are the chief produce of the land in
+cultivation. This last vegetable was introduced by the families from Nova
+Scotia (Acadia), who settled in Belle Isle, after that province was ceded
+to England by the Treaty of Paris, in 1766. This was several years before
+Parmentier had extended the use of the potato, or "truffe rouge," as it
+was first called, over other parts of France. Indian corn was probably
+also brought in by the Nova Scotians. The leaves are constantly cut during
+its growth as fodder for the cattle, so that the cob hardly attains a foot
+in height from the ground. On the left of our road we saw in the distance
+the village of Bangor, which gives its name to one of the four districts
+into which Belle Isle is divided. A little south is the fine granite
+lighthouse, of the stupendous height of 450 feet. We toiled up 255 steps
+(223 stone and 32 iron) before we gained the lantern, and, though the view
+was very extensive, we were rejoiced at finding ourselves safe down. One
+of the guardians had been waylaid, kicked, and beaten, a few evenings
+before, for some slight grudge. He seemed in great suffering, but had no
+doctor; the Breton, in his simple confiding faith--that with the Almighty
+are the issues of life and death, and that illness will end according to
+His decree--considers the calling in of a medical adviser but an
+unnecessary expense to his family. From the lighthouse we walked to the
+sea-shore. Belle Isle is a table-land, surrounded by steep cliffs,
+averaging 130 feet in height, which can only be descended to the shore in
+particular places. We walked to the Grotte du Port Coton, where begins the
+"Mer Sauvage," as it is called, an extent of five to six miles of most
+picturesque rocks, some elevated from 130 to 160 feet above the level of
+the sea, jagged and torn into most fantastic forms by the ceaseless
+dashing of the waters of the Atlantic, which have formed various grottoes
+in the cliffs. We descended into one of these caverns by a narrow gulley,
+but could not proceed far, as the tide was entering fast, and would soon
+have surrounded us, cutting off all means of retreat.
+
+[Illustration: 49. Device of Fouquet.]
+
+It reminded us of the description in the 'Vicomte de Bragelonne' of the
+grotto at Locmaria, which was blown up, and crushed the mousquetaire
+Porthos, at the moment of his and Aramis' triumph over the soldiers of the
+King. So great at times is the fury of the waves, that our guide at the
+lighthouse told us he had seen on several occasions the spray driven over
+to Le Palais, nearly five miles distant. Continuing our walk along the
+cliffs, we came to an enormous mass of rock, standing far out detached
+from the cliff, and covered with screaming sea-gulls. We again descended
+by another fissure into a pretty sandy cove, surrounded by the same wild
+granite rocks; but in most places there is no beach at all. It was now
+high water, so it was useless to attempt the Grotte des Apoth�caires,--the
+finest, they say, of them all, and we returned to Le Palais well pleased
+with the remarkably wild coast we had seen. Belle-isle forms now a canton
+in the department of Morbihan. In ancient days it belonged to the Abbot of
+Saint-Croix, at Quimperl�, who sold it, in the time of Charles IX., to the
+Mar�chal de Gondi, and, in 1573, it was erected into a Marquisate.
+(Cardinal de Retz lived here after his escape from the castle of Nantes.)
+One of his successors, Henri de Gondi, being overwhelmed with debt, sold
+the island to Nicolas Fouquet, the ill-fated Superintendent of Finance, on
+whose disgrace, and his being subsequently consigned to the fortress of
+Pignarol, his grandson, the Marquis de Belle Isle, exchanged it with Louis
+XV. for the Comt� of Gisors, erected into a duchy in 1742. Fouquet built a
+palace and completed the citadel, for which he employed Vauban. He also
+projected fortifications to enclose the town, which are now in course of
+completion by the Emperor, after Vauban's plans. Several guns had just
+been landed, the day before we visited the citadel, to see which an order
+is requisite. Near the citadel is the "Maison centrale des d�tenus," now
+only containing a few old men, too feeble for hard labour. We were too
+tired to walk to look at the celebrated cistern of Vauban, which holds, we
+were told, above thirty thousand imperial gallons of water. Fouquet's
+palace was, it is said, destroyed to complete the line of fortifications.
+A house was pointed out to us as having formed part of the original
+building. Some years since, a stone was picked up in the harbour bearing
+his ambitious device--a squirrel, with the motto, _Quo non ascendum?_ "To
+where shall I not rise?"  The greater number of the population of Belle
+Isle are employed in the fisheries; of these the sardine and the tunny are
+the chief. There are large establishments for curing sardines, which are
+very abundant, and lobsters, taken in the rocks of Belle Isle and the
+little islands of Houat and H�dic, are sent to London and Paris. The boats
+go as far as Spain, to the coast of Catalonia, for the tunny fishery,
+which extends from August to the beginning of October. These fish are
+taken by lines hung along the sides of the vessel, with a bell attached to
+each to give notice of a bite. The most esteemed part of the tunny is the
+underneath, or "panse." The next morning we sailed back to Auray. The
+nearest point to Belle Isle is Quiberon, only ten miles from Le Palais.
+From Auray by rail to Quimper, where we took the diligence to Pont l'Abb�,
+an old town formerly of some importance, in the midst of a fertile, rich
+country. The costume worn at Pont l'Abb� and along the Bay of Audierne is
+very singular. The cap, or "bigouden," is composed of two pieces: first, a
+kind of skull-cap, or serre-t�te, fitting tight to the head over the ears,
+then a little round bit, resembling, the young people said, a "pork-pie"
+hat, made of starched linen, pinched into a three-cornered peak, the
+middle peak embroidered and tied on by a piece of tape fastening under the
+chin; the hair is turned up, "en chignon," over the skull-cap. The body of
+the dress has a large "pi�ce" of red or yellow, and sleeves to match. The
+men wear several very short coats, one over the other, the shortest
+trimmed with fringe; sometimes sentences are embroidered with coloured
+woollens round the edge. It was market day; the women were sitting, with
+distaff and spindle, on each side of the entrance to the Halle. Some of
+them have short bead-chains with a ring, attached to the left shoulder, to
+stick their distaffs in when not at work. There was abundance of fruit and
+vegetables, potatoes, and sardines, which, with bigoudens and other
+articles of dress, formed the principal commodities for sale. Pont l'Abb�
+and its Port, Loctudy, carry on an extensive trade with Jersey, and large
+quantities of potatoes are exported to that island. There were some Jersey
+merchants at the table-d'h�te.
+
+[Illustration: 50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abb�.]
+
+The church of Pont l'Abb� has only one aisle. There is a fine rose window
+over the west entrance, of great lightness and richness, with a smaller
+one at the left; at the east end is another rose window of larger
+dimensions, the mullions forming geometric patterns, but differing in
+design from the other. The French architects always took great pains in
+the decoration of this part of the church, and these wheel windows really
+rival those of Rouen.
+
+[Illustration: 51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.]
+
+Attached to the church, are the cloisters of the Carmelite convent to
+which the church formerly belonged, built in the beginning of the
+fifteenth century by Bertram de Rosmadec, who had so much contributed to
+the completion of the cathedral at Quimper. The square is surrounded by an
+interlaced circular arcade, forming trefoiled pointed arches, all in
+excellent preservation. The access to the cloisters is through the
+conventual building, now a private house and garden, the proprietor kindly
+granting us permission.
+
+We drove to Loctudy, on the mouth of the Pont l'Abb� river opposite the
+little island of Tudy, called after an English saint of that name. Fleeing
+from the persecutions of the Picts and Scots who desolated his country, he
+founded here, at the end of the fifth century, a considerable monastery,
+afterwards destroyed by the Normans.
+
+At Loctudy is a curious Romanesque church, one of the best preserved in
+Brittany, which dates from the Templars of the twelfth century. It has a
+nave with aisles going all round the choir, and three round apsidal
+chapels at the end. The five arches on each side of the nave are
+horse-shoe shaped, and the choir is surrounded by the same number of high
+narrow arches, resting on columns with grotesque capitals of complicated
+design. The three chapels behind are seen through the opening; on one of
+the capitals is sculptured the cross of the Templars. The whole building
+is spoiled by whitewash.
+
+
+    "Chevaliers en ce monde cy
+    Ne peuvent vivre sans souci;
+    Ils doivent le peuple defendre,
+    Et leur sang pour la foi espandre."
+                    EUSTACHE DESCHAMPS.
+
+
+[Illustration: 52. Torche of Penmarch.]
+
+We engaged a rough kind of vehicle, much like a butcher's cart, to visit
+the Torche de Penmarch, a rocky promontory, so called from its fancied
+resemblance to a horse's head, forming the southern extremity of the
+department of Finist�re. The Torche is a mass of rocks separated from the
+mainland by a chasm called the "Saut de Moine," because an Irish saint,
+named Viaud, jumped across it on his landing. In rough weather, the noise
+made by the sea dashing against its sides and rushing through the crevices
+of the rocks, is said to be heard at Quimper, a distance of twenty-one
+miles. A line of rocks runs all along the coast, marked by a lighthouse at
+Penmarch; we proceeded to another group of rocks near which M. de
+Ch�tellier, a proprietor and antiquary of this country, has built a house
+for painting and enjoying the scenery. One of our party clambered down to
+see the "Trou d'Enfer," a tremendously deep hole in the rocks, the bottom
+covered with a pink sort of sea-weed, and the water as clear as crystal.
+The whole country is a dreary sandy level, with salt-marshes, over which
+we passed to the ruined church of St. Fiacre, and close by is that of St.
+Guenol�, both situated near the sea. The countryman who showed us the
+church, knelt reverently down at the threshold and put up a short prayer
+before he entered the sacred building. The general devoutness and strong
+faith of the Bretons is most impressive and genuine, mixed, no doubt, with
+great superstition; but, as Wesley says, "Heaven makes allowance for
+invincible ignorance, and blesses the faith notwithstanding the
+superstition."
+
+[Illustration: 53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. Church of St. Guenol�,
+Penmarch.]
+
+St. Guenol� consists of an unfinished square tower, with crocketed
+pinnacles and a porch of considerable size, under a large mullioned window
+of the fifteenth century. On each side of the porch are rude sculptures of
+ships and fishes, not uncommon in these parts, set there to show the
+church has been built with the thank-offerings of the fisher population of
+the district. In our tour we met with several churches with this sign,
+evidences of the piety of the fishermen; indeed, at Dunkirk, when the
+church was burned down in the sixteenth century by the French, it was
+entirely rebuilt by the contribution called "le filet saint," from an
+ancient custom among the fishermen of having one net so called, the
+produce of which was set apart for the church.
+
+[Illustration: 54. Church of St. Guenol�, Penmarch.]
+
+Towards the lighthouse are the ruins of the old town of Penmarch, much
+celebrated in the maritime history of the fourteenth to sixteenth
+centuries; its commerce extended even to Spain, and the riches of its
+inhabitants were so surpassingly great, that they drank out of silver
+cups, and the lords of a manor near the Torche furnished the silk required
+to line the road traversed by religious processions, their wealth being
+due to the "viande de car�me," that is to say, to the cod fishery. But the
+discovery of Newfoundland deprived them of this lucrative monopoly, and
+the ravages of Fontenelle le Ligueur completed their ruin. All now is a
+scene of desolation. Penmarch has been called the Palmyra of Brittany.
+
+Guy Eder Fontenelle, the Leaguer, who spread terror and devastation
+throughout Brittany in the sixteenth century, was a member of the
+Beaumanoir family; the name he adopted was that of one of the family
+estates. He was born in the Ch�teau of Beaumanoir (near Evran), and his
+elder brother early foresaw his guilty career. He escaped from college and
+united himself with a set of young men as lawless as himself; they formed
+themselves into a band, which soon became the dread of all Brittany. They
+ravaged the whole of Tr�guier and Cornouaille, surprised the ch�teaux of
+Co�tfrec and others, took the church of Carhaix, which they fortified, and
+the towns of Paimpol, Lannion, and Landerneau, which they pillaged,
+Penmarch and Pontcroix, whence they carried off an immense booty and 300
+vessels, with which they scoured the seas; and lastly, Douarnenez and the
+Island of Tristan (in 1595), whence fruitless attempts were made to
+dislodge them. For three years Fontenelle made this island his
+head-quarters, issuing from his stronghold to devastate the country. He
+murdered above fifteen hundred peasants at Plougastel, sank an English
+ship, without allowing her crew a moment to save themselves, imprisoned
+and tortured at Douarnenez all who fell into his hands. His victims never
+survived his cruelties more than three or four days, when their bodies
+were cast out into the bay to the fishes. These were only a few of his
+atrocities. As he called himself one of the leaders of the League in
+Brittany, the Duke de Mercoeur, its chief, indignant at the barbarities
+perpetrated in its name, caused Fontenelle to be imprisoned, but he was
+liberated on paying a ransom; and, fearing he would give Douarnenez over
+to the Spaniards, Fontenelle was included in the pacification of Mercoeur
+with Henry IV. But four years later he was implicated in the conspiracy of
+Biron; on which occasion all his old crimes were raked up against him, and
+he was condemned to be dragged on a hurdle, and broken alive upon the
+wheel, which sentence was executed on the Place de Gr�ve at Paris in 1602.
+In consideration of the illustrious house to whom he belonged, the king
+granted that in the act of condemnation he should not go by his own name.
+We next went to see the church of Saint Nonna in the town, the largest of
+the numerous churches in the parish of Penmarch. Ships are sculptured in
+front of the tower, as at St. Guenol�. On the left of the porch is a
+pretty window, the mullions formed by three fleur de lis. In the church is
+a curious old painting styled, "Procession du voeu de Louis XIII."
+Portraits of the King, the Dauphin (Louis XIV.), Anne of Austria, and
+Cardinal Richelieu, are introduced, and a view of the church of St. Nonna
+is in the background.
+
+[Illustration: 55. Fleur-de-Lis� Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch.]
+
+On our way home we passed, on the left, at Kerscaven, two menhirs, one
+curiously furrowed and shaped like a half-opened fan.
+
+We had a pretty drive from Pont l'Abb�, with occasional views of the Bay
+of Audierne, extending from Penmarch to the Pointe du Raz. Midway the
+horse, going down a steep hill, fell, and we all found ourselves upon the
+road, but happily unhurt. We met numbers of peasants returning from the
+fair at Pontcroix; and our driver, a butcher by trade, coolly stopped the
+vehicle, to discourse with them on the price of stock, and to handle the
+sheep they had bought. Our drive was enlivened with occasional peeps of
+the Bay of Audierne till we reached the little port of that name, the view
+of which is very pretty. Audierne is approached by a bridge across the
+river or estuary. At its entrance is a lighthouse, and on the right a
+sandy bay, with bathing-machines in the season.
+
+[Illustration: 56. Pointe du Raz.]
+
+The town consists of three streets of cut granite houses, with the name of
+the builder and the date of their construction inscribed over the door.
+Fishing is the occupation of the inhabitants, and the table-d'h�te at our
+comfortable, clean, little inn was plentifully supplied with magnificent
+john dorys, large red mullet, langoustes, and fish of every description.
+
+From Audierne we took a carriage to visit the Pointe du Raz, a promontory
+so famous for its rocks and wrecks. We went through a treeless country;
+near a pretty bay, on the left, is the chapel of Notre Dame-de-Bon-Voyage,
+destined chiefly for sailors, after which the country becomes more wild,
+barren, and cheerless. We passed over a bridge which no Breton would dare
+to cross at night, for fear of being flung by the spirits into the river.
+According to their belief, a hare appears on the bridge, and terrifies the
+horses, who throw their rider, and the traveller is dragged by the phantom
+into the muddy river, where he is kept till morning's dawn, when he is
+allowed to pursue his way, exhausted with cold, and half dead with fright.
+They are very superstitious here, as in all Cornouaille. A writer says,
+"every nation of the earth has its superstitions and absurdities, but
+Brittany has those of all other nations united." An old woman in a village
+hard by, said our driver, has never been seen inside the walls of a
+church; the people say she has sold herself to the evil one, and no one
+dares go near or speak to her.
+
+On the left is the pretty steeple of the church of Plogoff, situated on an
+eminence, and dedicated to Saint Coll�doc, a Welsh bishop of the sixth
+century, contemporary of King Arthur, and associated with many of the
+doings of Queen Guinevre and the knights of the Round Table. Lescoff is
+the last village we passed through before--after driving over a barren
+plain--we arrived at the lighthouse, built thirty years back at the Pointe.
+
+We walked thence to the Pointe, a gigantic and magnificent mass of rocks,
+eighty feet above the level of the sea. We met with a good-natured woman,
+who led the young people over the rocks to look down the "Enfer de
+Plogoff." They had a slippery scramble to reach the hole, a kind of tunnel
+through which the sea rushes with great violence, so much more terrible
+than that of Penmarch, that the noise has been compared to the distant
+roaring of some thousands of wild beasts issuing from the depths of a
+forest. In the mean time, we remained seated on the bank enjoying the
+view. On the south lay the Bay of Audierne, extending in the form of a
+crescent, the promontories of Penmarch and Raz forming the extreme points.
+The currents, and the numerous rocks of the bay, render it a dangerous
+coast, formerly peopled by barbarous wreckers, who despoiled the
+shipwrecked mariners as our Cornish men of old. Opposite the Raz, about
+seven miles distant, is the Island of Sein, and to the right, the Baie des
+Tr�pass�s. The island of Sein was anciently the seat of an oracle,
+interpreted by nine Druidesses, who were versed in every art and science.
+Moreover, they appear to have been accomplished needlewomen; for a Breton
+chronicler, giving an account of the coronation of an early king (Erech)
+at Nantes, describes his mantle as embroidered by these priestesses with
+figures of Arithmetic, Astronomy, and Music. Their skill in divination
+caused them to be associated with the fairies; and Morgan--_i.e._ "born of
+the sea"--one of these priestesses, who lived in the first century of the
+Christian era, was famous among the British fairies.
+
+
+    "Avec succ�s cultivait la magie,
+    Morgan de plus, �tait assez jolie."
+
+
+Chateaubriand celebrates Velleda, the last of the Druidesses of Sein, tall
+in stature, her eyes blue, with long fair floating hair, dressed in a
+short black tunic, without sleeves, bearing a golden sickle suspended from
+a brazen girdle, and crowned with a branch of oak. Here King Arthur was
+brought by Merlin to recover of his wounds. The inhabitants of the island
+were celebrated for their ferocity as wreckers.
+
+The passage between the island and the point or Bec du Raz--"qu'aucun n'a
+pass� sans mal ou sans crainte"--is very dangerous, owing to the number of
+rocks and the violence of the currents; hence the well-known prayer of the
+Breton sailor, "Mon Dieu, secourez-moi pour traverser le Raz, car mon
+navire est petit et la mer est grande." Having no wish to run the risk of
+being detained at the island by rough weather, we did not attempt the
+passage.
+
+The Baie des Tr�pass�s, over which we looked on the right, is so called
+from the Celtic legend that the Druids embarked in this bay after their
+death, to be buried in the island of Sein:--
+
+
+    "Autrefois, un esprit venait, d'une voix forte;
+    Appeler chaque nuit un p�cheur sur sa porte;
+    Arriv� dans la baie, on trouvait un bateau
+    Si lourd et si charg� de morts qu'il faisait eau,
+    Et pourtant il fallait, malgr� vent et mar�e,
+    Les mener jusqu'� Sein, jusqu'� l'�le sacr�e."
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+The bay also derives its name from the numerous shipwrecks that have taken
+place on its rocks, and from the number of corpses that have been floated
+there by the currents from ships foundered in the gulf comprised between
+the entrance of Brest, the Ou�ssant Islands, and Sein. The whole extent of
+the coast of Brittany is one long wall of rocks, placed as it were to
+protect it from the inroads of the sea and from foreign invasion. Heaped
+one over the other, they resemble the bastions of a citadel, the advanced
+rocks extending out to sea, jutting up in every direction in endless
+reefs. Or its line of coast may be compared to the jagged teeth of a comb,
+with a second line of defence in the rocks further out to sea.
+
+On the desolate shore of the Baie des Tr�pass�s is a piece of water, the
+�tang de Laoual, site of the city of Is--submerged by Divine vengeance,
+according to popular tradition, in the fifth century--a place of great
+commerce, arts, riches, and also of luxury. Gradlon, or Grallo, the king,
+alone attempted to stem the torrent. Built in the vast basin which now
+forms the Bay of Douarnenez, it was protected from the ocean by a strong
+dyke, the sluices only admitting sufficient water to supply the town. King
+Gradlon kept the silver key (which opened, at the same time, the great
+sluice and the city gates) suspended round his neck. His palace was of
+marble, cedar, and gold; in the midst of a brilliant Court sat enthroned
+his daughter Dahut, a princess who "had made a crown of her vices, and had
+taken for her pages the seven capital sins." Taking advantage of the sleep
+of her father, Dahut one night stole the silver key, and instead of
+opening the city gate, by mistake unlocked the sluices. The King was
+awakened by St. Guenol�, who commanded him to flee, as the torrent was
+reaching the palace.  He mounted his horse, taking his worthless daughter
+behind him. The torrent was gaining upon him fast, when a voice from
+behind called out, "Throw the demon thou carriest into the sea, if thou
+dost not desire to perish." Dahut felt her strength failing her; the hands
+that convulsively grasped her father's waist relaxed their hold; she
+rolled into the water, disappeared, and the torrent immediately stopped
+its course. The King reached Quimper safe and sound, and that town became
+afterwards the capital of Cornouaille.
+
+So runs the legend. That a great city once existed in the Bay of
+Douarnenez admits of no doubt. Besides the religious chronicles of the
+country, which have preserved the memory of its existence, in the
+sixteenth century, remains of old edifices were standing at the entrance
+of the bay, old paved roads have been traced, and walls found under water
+near the Pointe du Raz.
+
+The tradition of a town thus swallowed up is common among the Celtic race.
+In Wales, the site of the submerged city is in Cardigan Bay; in Ireland,
+in Lough Neagh:--
+
+
+    "On Lough Neagh's banks, where the fisherman strays,
+            At the hour of eve's declining,
+    He sees the round towers of other days
+            Beneath the waters shining."--MOORE.
+
+
+One of our party went out fishing to the Pointe, and returned well laden
+with his spoils.
+
+[Illustration: 57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.]
+
+The road from Audierne to Douarnenez passes by Pontcroix, a little town on
+the same river (Goazien) as Audierne, along which the road runs--a charming
+drive. It has a magnificent Romanesque church of the twelfth (probably of
+the fifteenth) century, with a remarkable porch, richly embroidered in
+quatrefoils and trefoils. A tower in the centre, with octagonal spire is
+second to none in Cornouaille, except that of Quimper. The arches of the
+nave are horseshoe, the transepts very narrow. Under the altar of the Lady
+Chapel is a "C�ne," half the size of nature, sculptured in ivory and
+marble, of marvellous workmanship.
+
+[Illustration: 58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame de-Comfort, near
+Douarnenez.]
+
+Eleven miles from Douarnenez we stopped to see the pretty little chapel of
+Notre Dame-de-Comfort, in a hamlet of that name, with light open-work
+steeple. Attached to one of the arches, on the left of the choir, is a
+wooden wheel, hung round with bells, to which is attached a long string.
+It is erroneously called "the wheel of fortune;" but is, in fact, the old
+wheel of sacring bells in use before the single bell was adopted. The boy
+who showed us the chapel pulled the string which was fastened to a hook
+near the altar, and the wheel revolved and rang a merry peal. Formerly
+there was a little wooden figure attached to the wheel, which performed
+the same office. The road runs round a hill, along an estuary formed by
+the river, and suddenly the beautiful lake, called the Bay of Douarnenez,
+bursts on the sight, of a blue as lovely as the Italian seas.
+
+The dirty little town of Douarnenez is charmingly situated to the south of
+the bay, the hills clothed with trees to the water's edge. The Pointe du
+Raz forms the western boundary of the bay, and it is shut in to the north
+by the peninsula of Crozon; its extreme point, Pointe de la Ch�vre,
+advancing nearly midway into the bay. The tide here falls eighteen feet.
+The triple peaks of the M�n�-Hom, one of the Montagnes Noires, is a
+prominent feature in the view. Islands are scattered over the gulf, and
+the island of Tristan, retreat of Fontenelle le Ligueur, is so close to
+Douarnenez, that it may be reached on foot at low water.
+
+The hotel was crammed, gentlemen sleeping on the billiard-table, or
+littered down in the room of the table-d'h�te: the place was crowded. All
+the world had flocked in to assist at the Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue,
+which was to take place the following morning. No vehicle was to be had,
+and we were in despair of being able to go, when a good-natured voyageur
+kindly offered to drive us in his carriage--a proposal we thankfully
+accepted. In all our wanderings we had hitherto never been so fortunate as
+to see a Pardon, and we were very anxious to go.
+
+The Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue takes place the last Sunday in August,
+continuing three days, and is one of the most frequented in Finist�re.
+
+[Illustration: 59. Costume of a Finist�re Bride.]
+
+At Plonevez-Porzun we turned off the Crozon road, and about two miles
+further arrived at the chapel. The road all the way was lined with
+peasants walking to the Pardon. The young men of Douarnenez wear blue
+jackets, embroidered in colours, with rows of plated buttons, the sleeves
+and waistcoat of a darker blue than the jacket, scarlet sashes, some with
+plaited bragou bras and shining leather gaiters; but most of them wore
+trowsers, their hair long, and their hats with two or three rows of
+coloured variegated chenille. The women had square caps, and aprons with
+bibs. Those who were in mourning wore light yellow caps, called
+"bourladins," stained that colour with beeswax or saffron.
+
+St. Anne is a newly-built church, standing on the slope of a down which
+separates it from the sea, in a perfectly insulated situation. It is only
+opened once a year for the Pardon. Round it were erected numerous stalls,
+with toys, epinglettes, and rosaries (chapelets), in heaps for sale; for
+rosaries must always be purchased at the Pardon, to preserve the wearer
+from thunder and hydrophobia. The great fabric for them is at Angers,
+where they are made in immense quantities. In the principal manufactory a
+steam-engine is used for turning the beads; in the others the common
+lathe. One maker told us she sent annually into Brittany alone rosaries to
+the value of 800_l_. There were tents and booths erected for the
+accommodation of the pilgrims who had arrived the preceding day. They eat,
+drink, and dance in the tents by day, and sleep on the tables at night.
+
+At ten o'clock, at the ringing of a bell, a procession was formed,
+consisting of a long line of peasants, preceded by priests and banners,
+which made the round of the church; the penitents, en chemise to the
+waist, barefooted, carrying wax-tapers in their hands. The penance is
+sometimes executed by proxy: a rich sinner may, for a small sum, get his
+penance performed by another. One woman made the round of the church on
+her knees, telling her beads as she hobbled along. This was in performance
+of a vow made for some special deliverance.
+
+We proceeded to the top of the hill, from which the beautiful Bay of
+Douarnenez presented a most lively appearance; fleets of small boats
+arriving from every direction, and a huge steamer from Brest, which was
+obliged to land its passengers in small boats, on account of the
+shallowness of the water.
+
+The appearance of the downs now became very animated, covered with
+gaily-dressed peasants arranged in groups, sitting or lying on the grass,
+in every kind of attitude.
+
+At four o'clock the grand procession took place. First came the priests of
+all the surrounding districts, with the banners and crosses of their
+parishes; then followed five girls (three and two) in white, carrying a
+banner, and eight more in similar attire, bearing a statue of the Virgin.
+Next appeared the banner of Sainte Anne, carried by women in the gorgeous
+costume of the commune--gowns of cherry-coloured silk, trimmed half the way
+up with gold lace, a silver lace scarf, and aprons of gold tissue or rich
+silk brocade. Under their lace caps was a cap of gold or silver tissue.
+Four more of these superbly-dressed bearers ("porteuses") carried the
+statue of Ste. Anne.
+
+[Illustration: 60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.]
+
+Girls carrying blue flags walked by their side. Troops of barefooted
+penitents and shaggy-headed beggars closed the procession, which was
+followed by a countless train of the peasants. It slowly wound its way
+over the hill, and again descended to the church, where it mingled among
+the crowds of assembled spectators, which filled the churchyard and were
+seated on the steps of the calvary.
+
+Not far from the church is the holy well of Ste. Anne, where devotees were
+engaged pouring the holy water over their hands and backs, dipping their
+children, and testing its miraculous efficacy by various other ablutions.
+
+We proceeded next morning to Quimper, having had no opportunity of seeing
+Douarnenez itself. In the season it is a favourite watering-place, the
+bathing being about two miles from the town. It is a great place for the
+sardine fishery. From Quimper we went by rail to Rosporden, whence an
+omnibus runs to Concarneau. The church of Rosporden is situated on a
+little promontory, jutting out into a large �tang fed by the river Aven,
+which runs through it and flows on to Pontaven.
+
+We took a carriage at Rosporden for Le Faou�t, passing by Sca�r on the
+Isole, a stream which rises at the foot of the Montagnes Noires, takes a
+curve round the town of Sca�r, and joins the Laita. It is full of trout
+and salmon.
+
+Sca�r is a town remarkable for having preserved many old customs and
+superstitions; among others, the bees are considered to be entitled to
+share in the joys and sorrows of the family. Their hives are surrounded
+with a red stuff on the occasion of a marriage; with a black on that of a
+death. This custom is still preserved in Wales. In all parts of Brittany
+bees are treated with special affection. As the redbreast is sacred,
+because she broke a thorn from the crown of our Lord that pierced His
+brow, so are the bees revered because, as we learn from the code of Hoel
+the Good, though they were sent from heaven to earth after the fall of
+man, the blessing of Heaven has ever followed them in their exile. This,
+too, is the reason the wax they produce has the privilege of lighting the
+altars for the divine office.
+
+[Illustration: 61. Cross Stones.]
+
+It was the day of a Pardon, and the peasants were all in gala dresses. A
+wrestling match unfortunately had just been finished; for throughout
+Cornouaille wrestling has been, from time immemorial, as favourite a game
+as in our county of the same name. Our driver tried without success to
+procure for us some of the little double crystals, intersecting each other
+at right angles, called "pierre de croix"--by mineralogists grenatite--found
+in the Coatdry, a small affluent of the Aven, washed out of the mica slaty
+rocks in which they abound. The peasants assign to them a miraculous
+origin, and wear them in little bags round the neck as charms against
+headache, blindness, shipwreck, and hydrophobia, being, as they allege,
+signed with the cross. According to tradition, a pagan chief, having, in
+his impious rage, thrown down the cross in the chapel of Coatdry, Heaven,
+in memorial of the outrage, placed the sacred symbol upon the stones of
+the river.
+
+At Le Faou�t we again entered the department of the Morbihan. This pretty
+little town is situated between the Sterlaer and the Ell�. We first walked
+to see the chapel of Ste. Barbe, perched, in the most singular manner, in
+the cleft of a high rock, about a mile from the town.
+
+After a steep climb we reached the plateau of the hill, where is the
+monument of a M. Berenger, who desired to be buried in this elevated spot,
+which commands a charming view of the surrounding country, the silvery
+waters of the Ell� winding at the base of the mountain. We then descended,
+by a flight of handsome, broad, granite steps, with balustrades, to the
+chapel, placed on so narrow a space that it was impossible to give it the
+usual inclination to the east. The entrance-porch is to the southwest, and
+the high altar opposite, against the walls of the chapel, to the
+north-east. On the top of the steps is the belfry, consisting of a roof,
+supported by four columns. The day of the Pardon each pilgrim rings the
+bell. The chapel was built in this singular spot, according to tradition,
+by a knight, who was overtaken by a storm in the valley of the Ell�
+beneath. He saw an enormous mass of detached rock on the point of falling
+down and crushing him, when he invoked the intercession of Sainte Barbe,
+the guardian saint against thunder, promising to build her a chapel, if
+delivered from the danger. His prayer was heard; the rock was stayed in
+its descent and rested on the cleft, where, next day, the grateful knight
+began building the chapel, as a thank-offering for his escape. Above Ste.
+Barbe, stationed on an insulated rock, one of the highest peaks in
+Brittany, is a small chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, also approached by
+a flight of stone steps, like Ste. Barbe, with bridge built over an
+archway. The rock on which it stands is so abrupt, that rings are placed
+along the sides of the chapel for the pilgrims, when creeping round, to
+hold on by. Many have perished in the attempt; none, they say, have ever
+succeeded in making the circuit.
+
+There was a wedding at Le Faou�t during our stay there. Guests, invited
+from all quarters, to the number of 250, arrived in their gala costumes,
+some of them magnificent: one woman wore a gown entirely of gold tissue;
+it was her wedding-dress. The musicians, with biniou and hautboy, went
+round to summon the guests. We saw the procession going to church. The
+bride was prettily dressed, with a high cap, beautifully "got up," pointed
+in form, and trimmed with lace, and embroidered; a muslin apron, also
+lace-trimmed, and a double muslin shawl, similarly trimmed, the lace
+beautifully plaited; a violet silk dress, white moire sash, and a small
+bunch of white flowers. The bridegroom was "en bourgeois." Outside the
+church door were tables, laid out with cakes; after the service the bride
+and all the party took each a cake and put money in the plates, as an
+offering for the poor. They next adjourned to the Place, where they danced
+three "gavottes" under the trees. The ceremony of stealing away the bride
+then took place; that is, she was chased by some dozen of the youths of
+the company, and he who had the good fortune to capture her she treated to
+a cup of coffee at a caf�. Dinner followed, and then they returned to the
+interminable gavotte. They hold each other's hands "en grand rond," then
+wind themselves round the centre couple, executing most elaborate steps,
+and uncoil again to return to the grand rond. We counted as many as thirty
+couples in one gavotte. These festivities last two, or sometimes three,
+days, during which time all the wedding party are entertained free of
+expense.
+
+Le Faou�t is a great fishing quarter. The Ell�, which flows round the
+town, is a stream of considerable size; and, four miles below Le Faou�t,
+it is joined by the Laita, and before Quimperl� unites its waters with the
+Isole, whence its mingled streams flow into the Atlantic, under the name
+of the Laita. We were told that large fish were taken in a pond in the
+grounds of the Abbey of Langonnet, not far from Le Faou�t, but it is
+strictly preserved.
+
+The people of this district retain all the old Breton superstitions; they
+believe in the Car of Death, drawn by six black horses, driven by the
+"Ankou," or Phantom of Death, with an iron whip. They also have full faith
+in the Washerwomen of the Night (Lavandi�res de la Nuit), who wash the
+shrouds for the dead, and fill the air with their melodious songs:--
+
+
+    "Si chr�tien ne vient nous sauver,
+    Jusqu'au jugement faut laver:
+    Au clair de la lune, au bruit du vent,
+    Sous la neige, le linceul blanc."
+
+
+    "If no good soul our hands will stay,
+    We must toil on till judgment-day:
+    In strong wind or clear moonlight,
+    We must wash the death-shroud white."
+
+
+They engage the passer-by to help them in wringing the linen; if he
+refuses, they drown him in their washing trough, or suffocate him in a wet
+sheet. Should he show himself ill-disposed, after having agreed to help
+them, they dislocate his arm. If he wrings the wrong way, his fate is
+inevitable; but if docile and obliging, they give him some clothes and
+dismiss him.
+
+[Illustration: 62. Rood-Screen or Jub�, St Fiacre.]
+
+A mile and a half from Le Faou�t, on a height a little off the Quimperl�
+road, is the beautiful church of Saint Fiacre, dating from the middle of
+the fifteenth century, celebrated for its carved wooden jub�, or
+rood-screen, and its painted glass. The church is falling to decay. It
+would be tedious to enumerate all the figures, and describe the details of
+this beautiful jub�. The carving is a perfect tracery of lace-work. Three
+large figures represent our Saviour and the two thieves. Then there are
+the Virgin and St. Joseph; the latter, with carpenter's plane and hammer.
+Below, Adam and Eve, and the Angel with the flaming sword. Two angels hold
+cartouches, on one of which is inscribed, "L'an mil C/IIII XX/IIII (1480)
+fut fait cette sculpture par Olivier de Loergan;" and, on the other,
+"Cette passion fut peinte l'an 1627. Yves Perez fabricant. Tous repaint en
+1866." Below are panels carved in the flamboyant style, of exquisite
+workmanship. The two middle panels have the sacred monogram, those on the
+east side ermines surrounded by cordeli�res.
+
+The side of the rood-loft facing the choir has pendents with grotesque
+carvings of allegorical signification.
+
+A man in an apple-tree, gathering the fruit, symbolizes theft. Next comes
+a disgusting representation of gluttony: a man relieving himself of a pig
+he has swallowed, the tail alone remaining in his mouth. Then follow a
+young man and woman, gaily attired, emblematic of luxury. So far, three of
+the "sept p�ch�s capitaux" are represented; but after these comes a
+national subject: a man playing on the bagpipe. The figures throughout the
+rood-screen are all boldly executed, and the tracery most elegant and
+delicate.
+
+The painted glass in the church is considerable, and represents the Life
+of Our Saviour, that of St. Fiacre, the Feast of Herod, and the Martyrdom
+of the Baptist, figures of the Prophets of the Old Testament, with many
+others. In most of the subjects, the figures are much mutilated. On one
+window is inscribed, "Pierre Androuet ouvrier demeurant � Kemperl� 1552."
+Over one altar is a sculpture, representing the Martyrdom of Saint
+Sebastian, between two archers, in the quaint costume of the sixteenth
+century.
+
+About six miles from Le Faou�t, is the ruined castle of Poncallec, with
+its forest, �tang, and forge; once the demesne of the young marquis of
+that name, who was implicated in that conspiracy to transfer the Regency
+from the Duke of Orleans to Philip V. of Spain, called the plot of
+Cellamare. Of the hundred and forty-eight gentlemen included in the
+accusation, all escaped to Spain, except Poncallec and three others.
+Poncallec refused to accompany them from a superstitious fear, a
+fortune-teller having foretold he should perish by the sea, "par la mer."
+They took refuge in a church, but were surprised by a party of cavaliers
+who had muffled the feet of their horses to reach them unheard. They
+escaped through a subterranean passage, and, for fifteen days, lay
+concealed in the hollow of a yew-tree, fed in secret by faithful peasants.
+Poncallec traversed France in the disguise of a priest, but was arrested
+at the Pyrenees. He with the three others were all convicted of high
+treason, and, a few hours after their condemnation, were beheaded at
+Nantes. Poncallec was the last to suffer. When ascending the scaffold, he
+asked the executioner his name; on his answering "La Mer," Poncallec felt
+the witch's prophecy was fulfilled.
+
+The estates of the four victims were confiscated, their arms effaced from
+the fronts of their houses, the moats of their castles filled in, and
+their trees (hautes futaies) cut down, "� hauteur d'infamie," that is,
+within nine feet of the ground, in like manner as were those of Moor Park,
+after the execution of the Duke of Monmouth. A list was presented to the
+Regent Philip of other offenders, but he tore the paper, and published an
+amnesty. The story of Poncallec is dramatically told by Alexandre Dumas,
+in his novel, called 'Une fille du Regent.' The Bretons honoured the
+victims as martyrs, and M. de la Villemarqu�, in his 'Chansons Bretons,'
+gives a touching elegy which shows the sympathy excited by the tragic fate
+of Poncallec:
+
+
+    "Quand il arriva � Nantes, il fut jug� et condamn�,
+        Condamn� non par ses pairs,
+    Mais par des gens tomb�s de derri�re les carrosses.
+          Ils demand�rent � Poncallec:
+          'Seigneur marquis, qu'avez vous fait?
+          --Mon devoir; faites notre m�tier.'
+    Il est mort, chers pauvres, celui qui vous nourissait,
+    Qui vous v�tissait, qui vous soutenait;
+    Il est mort celui qui vous aimait, habitants de Bern�
+    Celui qui aimait son pays et qui l'a aim� jusqu'� mourir.
+            Il est mort � vingt-deux ans
+      Comme meurent les martyrs et les saints;
+            Que dieu ait piti� de son �me!
+      Le seigneur est mort {~HORIZONTAL ELLIPSIS~} Ma voix s'�teint, {~HORIZONTAL ELLIPSIS~}
+      Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit, sois maudit;
+            Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit."
+
+
+We left Le Faou�t and its comfortable primitive inn, the "Lion d'Or," with
+much regret; the country around is beautiful, and we had arranged to set
+out early that we might cross the Montagnes Noires by daylight; but we
+were disappointed in procuring a carriage, and it was not till late in the
+afternoon that we were able to leave in a diligence, of which the coup�
+alone was reserved to us, the interior being occupied by Breton farmers,
+returning from a horse-fair. From the elevated wooded ground of Le Faou�t,
+the road makes a precipitous descent, and crosses the little stream of
+Moulin-au-duc, after which it again rises, in a winding direction, along
+the side of a mountain with a valley and little stream beneath. Then a
+rapid descent brought us to Gourin, where we would gladly have risked
+staying the night, and waited till morning to pursue our road over the
+mountains, but we had paid our fare to Carhaix. Up hill and down again,
+like all the roads in mountainous Finist�re, from Gourin we ascended again
+and passed a crest of the Montagnes Noires, which separates the three
+departments of Finist�re, Morbihan, and C�tes-du-Nord; and proceeded
+through a valley to Carhaix, where we arrived at midnight, and therefore
+had no opportunity of seeing the beauties of the mountain scenery.
+
+Carhaix is a dirty, unpaved, dull town of the middle ages, much decayed
+from its ancient importance when capital of the country dismembered from
+Cornouaille, in the sixth century, by Comorre the Breton Bluebeard. It is
+situated on an eminence, commanding an extensive view of the barren
+monotonous surrounding country, bounded by the Arr� mountains, the Alps of
+Finist�re. It is the centre of Lower Brittany, and the Duke d'Aiguillon,
+Minister of Louis XV., caused six roads to be made from it to Brest,
+Quimper, Morlaix, St. Brieux, Vannes, and Ch�teaulin, with the hope of
+introducing commerce and civilisation into this barren district, "le
+dernier trou du monde," as it is styled by the Parisian.
+
+La Tour d'Auvergne, Premier Grenadier de France, was born here, and a
+bronze statue of him, by Marochetti, has been erected to his memory. He is
+in the uniform of a private soldier, and presses to his heart the sword of
+honour just presented to him by the First Consul. Round the pedestal are
+four bas-reliefs, representing scenes in his life. In the first, he saves
+a wounded soldier; in the second, he forces the gates of Chambery; in the
+third, he takes leave of the parents of a youth, for whom he goes as a
+substitute into the army. The last represents his death; he was killed by
+a lance at Ober-hausen (Bavaria), fighting against the Austrians. The
+monument bears this inscription on its four sides:--
+
+  "La Tour d'Auvergne, 1^er Grenadier de France, n� � Carhaix le 23
+  Decembre, 1715; mort au champ d'honneur le 27 Juin, 1800.
+
+  "Ecrivain, Citoyen, Soldat, sa vie toujours glorieusement remplie ne
+  laisse que de sublimes exemples � la posterit�.
+
+  "Tant de talens, et de vertus, appartenaient � l'histoire et au premier
+  Consul, de les devancer.
+
+  "Celui qui meurt dans une lutte sacr�e trouve pour le repos une patrie
+  m�me sur la terre etrang�re."
+
+Preferring the title of "Premier Grenadier de France" to higher honours,
+La Tour d'Auvergne remained as a private soldier to his death; but in a
+decree of Buonaparte, then First Consul, preserved in the Mus�e des
+Archives, he orders that La Tour d'Auvergne's name should still be kept on
+the muster-roll of his old regiment; and, when called, the corporal should
+answer, "Mort au champ d'honneur!"
+
+The moderation and absence of ambition in the character of La Tour
+d'Auvergne is expressed in a letter to Le Coq, Bishop of Ille-et-Vilaine.
+He writes,--"Je me prosterne bien plus volontiers devant la Providence pour
+le remercier que pour rien demander; du pain, du lait, la libert�; et une
+coeur qui ne puisse jamais s'ouvrir � l'ambition, voil� l'objet de tous mes
+d�sirs."
+
+La Tour d'Auvergne had a learned dog, which he educated as a soldier; he
+went through the whole drill, and his master made him always wear boots.
+He marched in them, on one occasion, the whole distance from Paris to
+Guingamp.
+
+A horse fair and market were going on at Carhaix. Some of the women wore
+curious flannel hoods, edged with colours. There were baskets of burnt
+limpet shells and lime, used in washing as substitutes for soap. In the
+porch of the church dedicated to St. Tremeur (son of the Bluebeard
+Comorre) are some of the little skull-boxes so common in the north of
+Brittany. One was labelled, "Ci g�t le chef de Mr. Thomas Fran�ois Nonet,
+ancien notaire et maire de la ville de Carhaix le 28 J^ier 1776, d�c�d�e
+le 8 7^bre 1842." The curfew bell rings at Carhaix at a quarter to ten.
+
+We left next day for Huelgoat, fifteen miles distant, the road up and
+down, wild and dreary. At Pont Pierre, about nine miles from Carhaix, we
+crossed the Aulne, even here a considerable river, with a beautiful thick
+forest on our right. At a place called La Grande Halte, we turned off the
+road to the right for Huelgoat, about a mile and a half off. It is
+prettily situated on a large pond or lake, nearly a mile and a half in
+circumference, and of great depth (20 feet). It was market day; the men
+wore brown serge coats, close white breeches and black gaiters, with straw
+hats bound with black. The countrymen from Saint Herbot were there in
+their black shaggy goat or sheepskin overcoats, the hair turned outwards
+(there are flocks of black sheep throughout Finist�re), without sleeves,
+and the white breeches, black gaiters, and straw hats. The women of
+Huelgoat wear large white turnover collars and caps with long ends turned
+up.
+
+We first walked to the rocking stone on the slope of a steep hill,
+considered the third largest in Brittany; the block forming a kind of
+double cube, that is, about twice the length of its height. It requires a
+very slight impulse to make it rock. This "fairy stone" is often consulted
+by the peasants. In the ravine close by, below the path, is what is called
+the "Cuisine de Madame Marie," but termed in the guide-books the "M�nage
+de la Vierge;" a recess formed of large masses of fantastically shaped
+granite rocks, through which a small stream of water flows, arriving
+thither from the pond, by a subterranean course. One stone, hollowed out,
+is called the �cuelle of the Virgin, and others have each the name of some
+different utensil requisite for the "M�nage" of our Lady. The young people
+managed to scramble to the bottom.
+
+Huelgoat (Breton, "high wood") is celebrated for its lead-mines, which are
+now no longer worked. A well-kept path, cut on the top of the ridge, leads
+to the mines, about two miles and a half distant, along a neat little
+canal, three feet wide, issuing from the great pond, and supplying the
+hydraulic machine used to pump the water out of the mine. The deeply
+wooded valley, along the ridge of which it runs, is traversed by a rushing
+stream, which runs over rocks; and at a place called Le Gouffre, the
+rounded granite masses are piled in the wildest confusion, like those of
+the M�nage de la Vierge, forming a large dark cavern, at the bottom of
+which the imprisoned river foams and roars, and has forced itself an
+escape through a gorge at some distance from the place, where it is lost
+to view. A young girl is said, about a century back, to have fallen down
+this gulf. Attempting to gather some of the mosses that line the sides of
+the rocks, she slipped in and perished in the sight of her intended. Her
+body never reappeared, but our guide assured us that her ghost was seen
+four years since, and that sighs and groans are to be heard at eve issuing
+from the fatal chasm.
+
+The pretty little ivy-leaved campanula was growing here in abundance. We
+visited in succession the "robber's cave," the "Pierre cintr�" (a natural
+archway), and other wonders, and returned much pleased with the infinite
+variety of fantastic rocks, rushing waters, and hanging woods, which form
+this charming scene.
+
+The lead-mines of Huelgoat have been worked since the fifteenth century
+for the silver which the lead-ore (galena) contains.
+
+The right of working these mines and those of Poullaouen was given by
+Louis XIII. to Jean du Ch�telet, Baron of Beausoleil, and his wife. He was
+at that time General of the Mines in Hungary, and inspector of the French
+mines. They were accompanied by German miners, but their mysterious
+researches caused them to be accused of sorcery and magic. Richelieu had
+them imprisoned in the Bastille, where they both died, victims of the
+fanaticism of the age, and the works were abandoned till the eighteenth
+century. They are now no longer in operation, but it is said are about to
+be re-opened.
+
+Retracing our steps to La Grande Halte, on the Carhaix road, we turned off
+to the left to see the cascade of St. Herbot. We left our carriage, and
+walked up a hill covered with underwood, opposite the fall. The cascade is
+formed by the little river Elez falling through a mountain gorge about 650
+feet  in length, filled with granite rocks of every shape and size, the
+sides overhung with woods of oak. The height of the fall is 230 feet.
+
+There was no water in the cascade. At the best, it must be only a
+succession of small falls. The river tumbles from rock to rock, forming on
+some of the ledges pools of water, filled with small trout, some of which
+were caught by our party.
+
+According to the legend, a giant of the country, wishing to clear the
+fields of his friend, a Druid, from the rocks that encumbered them, rolled
+them down the torrent.
+
+We descended the hill to the road where we had left our carriage, and went
+to the chapel of St. Herbot, a building of the sixteenth century, on the
+side of a rushing brook. It has a high square tower opening into the
+church, and a rood-screen of wood beautifully carved in the style of the
+Renaissance, which forms three sides round the altar. Two angels are
+represented with cups, the "sainte graal" receiving the blood of Christ.
+The entrance to the church is up a flight of steps. It has a beautifully
+sculptured south porch, with statues of the Apostles, and some fine
+painted-glass windows. One part of the church has the windows with iron
+bars, as if for defence.
+
+[Illustration: 63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]
+
+Near the altar is the tomb of the anchorite, St. Herbot; his effigy
+reposes under a Gothic canopy, upon a granite sarcophagus, represented in
+his hermit's gown, the hood thrown back, flowing hair, long beard, his
+breviary suspended to his girdle, and his pilgrim's staff by his left arm.
+His feet repose on a recumbent lion. St. Herbot is the great patron of
+cattle; the three days of the fair and pardon all the bullocks rest; and
+when an animal is ill, an offering of his hair is made to the saint. We
+saw a heap of horsehair and cows' tails lying on one of the altars. These
+are annually sold for the profit of the church, and the proceeds amount to
+a considerable sum. Our guide gravely assured us that on the first of May,
+day of the Pardon of St. Herbot, the cows "d'elles m�mes" walk three times
+round the church.
+
+[Illustration: 64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]
+
+We returned late to Carhaix, and left next day for Guingamp, passing,
+about two miles out of the town, through the village of St. Catherine on
+the Hierre, where the church has fleur-de-lis� windows, like that of
+Penmarch. We here entered the department of the C�tes-du-Nord through
+Callac, where we changed horses; the country was hilly and wooded. On the
+left we saw the spire of the church of Notre Dame-de-Gr�ces, where repose
+the remains of Charles of Blois; on the right appeared the cathedral
+towers of Guingamp. At this last place we took the rail to Caulnes-Dinan,
+and on, by diligence, to Dinan, whence we proposed returning by St. Malo;
+but, finding the time of the boat's sailing did not suit our arrangements,
+we returned by Paris and Dieppe to London.
+
+
+
+
+
+SOME USEFUL DATES IN THE HISTORY OF BRITTANY.
+
+
+  1320. Du Guesclin born.
+  1338. Marriage of Charles of Blois and Jeanne de Penthi�vre.  Du
+              Guesclin at the tournament.
+  1341. Death of John III. Beginning of the War of Succession.
+  1342. John de Montfort, prisoner in the Louvre, 1345. Escape to England
+              and death.
+  1346. Siege of Hennebont defended by Jeanne de Flandre.
+  1347. Charles of Blois taken prisoner at La Roche Derrien.
+  "   War of the two Jeannes.
+  1351. Combat of the Thirty.
+  1356. Charles of Blois liberated.
+  1359. Siege of Dinan.
+  1364. Battle of Auray.
+  1365. Treaty of Gu�rande.
+  1370. Du Guesclin, Constable of France.
+  1375. John IV. flees to England.
+  1380. He is recalled.
+  1387. Death of Du Guesclin.
+  1387. Clisson marries his daughter to Jean de Penthi�vre.
+  1407. Death of Clisson.
+  1420. Seizure of John V. by the Penthi�vres.
+  1488. Battle of St. Aubin du Cormier.
+
+
+
+
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE DUKES OF BRITTANY.
+
+
+                                    []
+
+
+
+1. GEOFFROY II.                        CONSTANCE
+3rd son of Henry II.,--------=--------Heiress of Britanny
+    1175                     |
+                          Arthur,
+                           1196.
+
+CONSTANCE,------------=-----------2. GUY DE THOUARS
+Heiress of            |
+Brittany.           Alix,
+                    1213------=-----Pierre de Dreux.
+                              |
+                       John II., 1286.
+                Beatrix, daughter of Henry III.
+                              |
+                              |
+1. Maria,-------------=------Arthur II., 1305----------------------------------=-----2. Jeanne de Montfort.
+Vicountess            |                                                        |
+de Limoges            |                                                        |
+                      |                                         +--------------+--------+
+          +-----------+----------+                              |                       |
+          |                      |                 Jean Comte de Montfort + 1345.    Beatrix.
+Jean III. (Bon), 1313.   Gui Comte de Penthi�vre.........Jeanne de Flandre........Gui de Laval.
+Isabelle de Valois.              |                              |                       |
+                                 |                              |                Beatrix de Laval
+                          Jeanne la Boiteuse.        Jean IV. (Vaillant), 1366.         |
+                        Charles de Blois + 1364 ....... 1. Mary of England.      Richard de Bretagne.
+                                 |                       2. Joan Holland.........Marguerite d'Orleans.
+          +----------------------+--------------+       3. Joan of Navarre.             |
+          |                      |              |               |                       |
+Jean Comte de Penthi�vre.       Gui.           Henri.           |                       |
+Marguerite de Clisson.     Died in captivity.                   |                       |
+          |                                       +-------------+-----+           Francis II., 1458
+   +------+-------+                               |                   |
+   |      |       |                         John V., 1439     Arthur III., 1457...1. Marguerite de Bretagne.
+Olivier Charles Guillaume ................ Jeanne de France      Constable.       2. Marguerite de Foix.
+                                                  |                                     |
+        +----------------------+------------------+--------+                            |
+Francis I., 1442.         Pierre II.,          Maria.     Gilles.                  Anne, 1488.
+1. Yolande d'Anjou.       1450.                         Francoise de Dinan.......1. Charles VIII.
+2. Isabeau d'Ecosse.     Francoise d'Amboise.                                    2. Louis XIII.
+                                                                                        |
+                                                                                   +----+----+
+                                                                                 Claude.   Ren�e.
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+Abelard, 192.
+Ancenis, 217.
+Angoul�me, Duke and Duchess, 167.
+Anne, of Austria, Queen, 122, 269.
+Anne de Beaujeu, Regent, 203, 229.
+Anne of Brittany, Queen-Duchess, 42, 50, 62, 98, 121, 153, 221, 222, 223.
+Arr�, mountains, 103, 136, 297.
+Arthur and Geoffroy Plantagenet, 216.
+Arthur III., Duke of Brittany, Constable of France, 190.
+Artois, Comte d', 29.
+Auray, 157.
+Auray, battle of, 161.
+Auray, Ste. Anne d', 158.
+Avranches, 23.
+Audierne, 269.
+
+Baciocchi, Princess, 187.
+Baie des Tr�pass�s, 274.
+Barb�s, 28.
+Barkers (aboyeurs), 214.
+Bas-Foins, 49.
+Beaumanoir Chapel, 56.
+Beaumanoir, Jean de, 52, 206.
+Beauport, Abbey of, 76.
+Belle-Isle-en-Mer, 250.
+Belli�re, Ch�teau of, 54.
+Berri, Duchess, 226.
+Bertheaume, Island, 128.
+Bigouden, 258.
+Biniou, 249.
+Bisson, 155, 194.
+Blanche of Castille, 149.
+Blue Beard, Breton, 194.
+Boisgelin, Ch�teau, 75.
+Bonchamps, 237.
+Bourg-de-Batz, 217.
+Brest, 118.
+Bretesch, Ch�teau of, 248.
+Breton bed, 239;
+-- butter, 153;
+-- character, 99;
+-- chestnuts, 203;
+-- cow and pig, 153;
+-- distaffs, 259;
+-- farmhouse, 86;
+-- knitting, 74;
+-- soup, 112;
+-- threshing, 117;
+-- vehicles, 37.
+
+Cancale, 39.
+Carnac, 177.
+Cesson, Tour de, 71.
+Carhaix, 297.
+Chalais, Comte de, 226.
+Champ des Martyrs, 166.
+Champtoceaux, Ch�teau de, 218.
+Chandos, Sir John, 16, 46, 89, 162.
+Ch�teaubriand, 36, 41.
+Ch�teaulin, 135.
+Chatelet, J. du, 302.
+Ch�ne-Ferron, Ch�teau of, 57.
+Cherbourg, 1.
+Charles the Bad, 134.
+Charles of Blois, 67, 75, 82, 161.
+Charles V., 223.
+Charles VI., 185.
+Charles VII., 47, 191.
+Charles VIII., 203, 229.
+Clisson, Constable, 25, 89, 186, 209.
+Clisson, Marguerite, 89, 218.
+Colomb, Michel, 127, 221.
+Combat des Trente, 206.
+Combourg, Ch�teau de, 36.
+Comorre, 194, 297.
+Concarneau, 142.
+Conquet, Le, 128.
+Constance of Brittany, 216.
+Cornouaille, 135.
+Costume, 23, 133, 140, 234, 249, 258, 283, 288, 298.
+Cou�ron, 34.
+Cou�snon, 29.
+Courcorro, 181.
+Coutances, 19.
+Cr�pes, 11, 169.
+Croisic, Le, 232.
+Crosses, 104.
+
+D'Andelot, Sieur, 248.
+Dinan, 44, 50.
+Dinan, Fran�oise de, _see_ Fran�oise.
+Dinan, Roland de, 53.
+Dinard, 44.
+Dogs of St. Malo, 42.
+Dol, 30.
+Douarnenez, 276, 279.
+Dubourg, 29.
+Du Guesclin, 24, 44, 45, 51, 53, 74, 143, 162, 209.
+
+Elven, Ch�teau of, 199.
+Edward III., 15, 112, 153, 223.
+Edward IV., 201.
+Escoublac, 232.
+Estouteville, Sieur d', 13, 26.
+Epinglettes, 160.
+Ermine, Order of, 126.
+
+Filet, saint, 264.
+Faou�t, Le, 287.
+Folgo�t, Le, 120.
+Fouquet, N., 256.
+Francis I., Duke of Brittany, 47, 126 _note_, 185.
+Francis II., Duke of Brittany, 221, 229.
+Fran�oise de Dinan, 46, 215.
+Fontenelle le Ligueur, 267.
+Fr�rie Blanche, 72.
+Frobisher, 134.
+
+Gavr' Inis, 174.
+Gesril du Papeu, 166, 167.
+Gilles de Bretagne, 46.
+Go�mon (wrack), 94.
+Grallo, King, 139, 275.
+Gu�rande, 245.
+Guimiliau, 115.
+Granville, 21.
+Guingamp, 72.
+
+H�dic, Isle, 250, 257.
+Haye du Puits, La, 17.
+Harcourt, G. d', 15.
+Hennebont, 156.
+Henry II., 4, 24, 26.
+Henry IV., 71, 134, 191.
+Henry V., 13, 26, 134, 201.
+Henry VI., 201.
+Henry VII., 201.
+Henry VIII., 128.
+Henri IV., 216, 225.
+Herc�, 167, 183.
+Hoche, Gen., 166.
+Hunaudaye, Ch�teau de la, 62.
+Huelgoat, 300.
+
+Indian corn, 251.
+Inclined axis of church, 106.
+Is, City of, 274.
+Ingrandes, 217.
+
+James II., 72, 205.
+Jean de Montfort, 67, 112, 153.
+Jeanne d'Arc, 190.
+Jeanne de Flandre (Montfort), 83, 156.
+Jeanne de France, 185, 219.
+Jeanne de Penthi�vre, 83.
+Jeanne (Joan) of Navarre, 106, 121, 134, 194, 246.
+John I. (Roux), 189, 194.
+John II., 204.
+John III. (Bon), 67, 160, 205.
+John IV. (Victorieux), 25, 67, 71, 119, 121, 126, 160, 185, 223, 246.
+John V., 88, 121, 185.
+Josselin, Ch�teau, 211.
+Jugon, 61, 187.
+
+Kergrist, Ch�teau, 96.
+Kermartin, 84.
+Kermario, 177.
+Kersanton stone, 122, 135.
+Kerserho, 181.
+Kerscaven, 269.
+Knights Templars, 69.
+Knollys, Sir R., 119, 143.
+Korn-er-Ho�t, 187.
+La For�t, Bay, 143.
+La Garaye, Ch�teau of, 57.
+Lamballe, 67.
+Lanleff, 68.
+Langoat, 83.
+Langoustes, 94, 147.
+Lannion, 94.
+Lanvaux, Lande de, 187.
+Larochejaquelin, 22.
+La Tour d'Auvergne, 297.
+Lehon Abbey, 56.
+Lavandi�res de la Nuit, 290.
+Lesage, 188.
+L�onnais, 103.
+L�on, Viscounts, 110.
+L�zardrieux, 80.
+Lessay, 17.
+Locmariaker, 170.
+Loctudy, 261.
+Lorient, 155.
+Louis XI., 26, 201.
+Louis XII., 32, 223.
+Louis XIV., 119, 189.
+
+Manny, Sir W., 128, 153, 157.
+Manoir, 81.
+Martinvast, 12.
+Matilda, Empress, 3.
+Mary, daughter of Edward III., 106.
+Mercoeur, Duke de, 225.
+Menhir, 35.
+Mingant Rock, 119.
+Minihy (sanctuaries), 88.
+Mivoie, Ch�ne de, 207.
+Montafilant, Ch�teau, 46.
+Montfort, 215.
+Mont St. Michel, 25.
+Motto of Dukes of Brittany, 126, 161.
+Morbihan Sea, 174.
+Morlaix, 97.
+
+Nacqueville, Ch�teau, 6.
+Nantes, 221.
+Napoleon I., 3, 4.
+Notre Dame-de-Comfort, church, 279.
+Notre Dame-du-Roncier, 213.
+
+Octeville, 5.
+Ou�ssant Isle, 128, 133.
+
+Paimboeuf, 229.
+Paimpol, 80.
+Palais, Le, 251.
+Penmarch, 263.
+Penmarch, Torche de, 262.
+Penthi�vre, 149, 210, 225.
+P�riers, 18.
+Perros Guirec, 92.
+Peter, Duke, 72.
+Philip Augustus, 28.
+Pierre de Dreux, 216.
+Pierres de Croix, 286.
+Pleudaniel, 81.
+Plo�rmel, 203.
+Plouaret, 96.
+Plougastel, 133.
+Plouharnel, 180.
+Ploumanach, 92.
+Pointe du Raz, 271.
+Pole, W. de la, Earl of Suffolk, 13.
+Pontacallec, Marquis de, 226, 294.
+Pontaven, 150.
+Pontcroix, 276.
+Pont l'Abb�, 257.
+Pontorson, 24.
+Port Navalo, 250.
+Potatoes, 251.
+Poulignan, 233.
+Porzmoguer, 130.
+
+Querqueville, 5.
+Quiberon, 165.
+Quimper, 138.
+Quimperl�, 151.
+
+Rance River, 43.
+Richelieu, Cardinal, 96, 119.
+Richelieu, Duke, 82.
+Rennes, 216.
+Retz, Cardinal, 226.
+Rieux, Marshal, 202.
+River scenery, 103, 216, 250.
+Roads, 84, 91.
+Roche Bernard, La, 247.
+Roche Derrien, La, 82.
+Roche Jagu, La, 81.
+Rochefort, Chancellor, 229.
+Rocking stones, 93, 149, 300.
+Rohan family, 98, 99, 111, 210.
+Rosaries, 282.
+Roscoff, 111.
+Rosgrand, 153.
+Rosporden, 285.
+Rust�phan, Ch�teau, 149.
+
+Sacring bells, 279.
+Saire, Monk of, 5.
+Ste. Anne la Palue, 282.
+St. Armal, 204.
+-- Aubin du Cormier, 229.
+Ste. Barbe, 287.
+St. Brieuc, 71.
+-- Corentin, 137.
+-- Corn�ly, 178.
+-- Fiacre, 20.
+--  "  church, 293.
+-- Florent, 217.
+-- G�n�vroc, 105.
+-- Germain, 5, 34.
+-- Gildas, 192.
+-- Guenol�, 263.
+-- Herbot, 303.
+-- Ives, 85, 88.
+-- L�onard, 75.
+-- Malo, 39.
+-- Mathieu, 129.
+-- Michael, Order of, 26.
+-- Nazaire, 230.
+-- Pair, 23.
+-- Pol de L�on, 103.
+-- Samson, 32.
+-- Th�gonnec, 114, 117.
+-- Urlose, 152.
+-- Vincente Ferrar, 184.
+Salt, 233.
+Sardine fishery, 144.
+Sarzeau, 192.
+Sca�r, 285.
+Scales, Lord, 21.
+Sein, Isle, 272.
+Sevign�, Madame de, 203.
+Skull-boxes, 91.
+Soeurs de la Mis�ricorde, 16.
+Soeurs de le Providence, 11.
+Sombreuil, Comte de, 164, 183, 184.
+Stuart, Charles, 113, 230.
+Stuart, Mary, 98, 112.
+Sucinio, Ch�teau, 189.
+
+Teigneuse, Isle, 250.
+Thomas � Becket, 24.
+Tocqueville, A. de, 7.
+Tombeleine, Isle, 28.
+Touqu�dec, Ch�teau, 95.
+Tourlaville, Ch�teau, 7.
+Tr�guier, 88.
+Tr�gunc, 149.
+Trieux River, 80.
+Trinit�, La, 130.
+Tumiac, Butte de, 199.
+Typhaine, the Lady, 24, 44, 54.
+
+Valognes, 14.
+Vannes, 183.
+Varades, 217.
+Vendean army, 217.
+Veneti, 183.
+Venus' ear, 2.
+Victoria, Queen, 1, 3, 14.
+
+Walsh, 230.
+War of the two Jeannes, 83.
+War of Succession, 67 _note_.
+Washing, 18.
+Wells, holy, 125, 285.
+Welsh Baptists, 100.
+William the Conqueror, 4.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBERS' NOTES
+
+
+The following substitutions were applied to the text by Project Gutenberg
+proofers and transcribers--
+
+On page 7: "recals" --> "recalls"
+On page 25: "John IV Duke of Britanny" --> "Brittany"
+On page 93: "slighest" --> "slightest"
+On page 104: "calvarys" --> "calvaries"
+In Ill. 22: "Creisker" --> "Creizker"
+On page 144: "mackarel" --> "mackerel"
+On page 149: "out out" --> "out"
+On page 167: twice "d'Angoulme" --> "d'Angoul�me"
+On page 178: "Erdevan" --> "Erdeven"
+On pages 196/197: several extra double quotes removed
+On page 212: "ballustrades" --> "balustrades"
+On page 270: "promonotory" --> "promontory"
+On page 272: "corronation" --> "coronation"
+On page 303: "in in" --> "in"
+
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS***
+
+
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+>November 9, 2007
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+                                  vertical-align: top; text-align: right; }
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+td.tei-label-gloss              { text-align: left }
+
+td.tei-item-gloss,
+th.tei-headItem-gloss           { padding-left: 4em; }       
+
+img.tei-formula                 { vertical-align: middle; }
+
+</style></head><body class="tei">
+
+
+  
+  
+  
+
+<div lang="en" class="tei tei-text" style="margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em" xml:lang="en">
+  <div class="tei tei-front" style="margin-bottom: 6.00em; margin-top: 2.00em">
+    <div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+      <div id="pgheader" class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 2.00em">The Project Gutenberg EBook of Brittany &amp; Its Byways by Fanny Bury Palliser</p></div><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost
+          and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it,
+          give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project
+          Gutenberg License <a href="#pglicense" class="tei tei-ref">included with this
+          eBook</a> or online at <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license" class="tei tei-xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</a></p></div><pre class="pre tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em">Title: Brittany &amp; Its Byways
+
+Author: Fanny Bury Palliser
+
+Release Date: November 9, 2007 [Ebook #22700]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY &amp; ITS BYWAYS***
+</pre></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+      
+    </div>
+
+    <hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+      <div class="block tei tei-docTitle"><div class="block tei tei-titlePart" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Brittany &amp; Its Byways</span></div></div><div class="block tei tei-byline" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">by </span><span class="inline tei tei-docAuthor" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 173%">Fanny Bury Palliser</span></span></div><div class="tei tei-div" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 5.76em; margin-top: 5.76em"><span class="tei tei-docEdition" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-edition" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 144%">
+        Edition 02
+      </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 144%">, (</span><span class="tei tei-docDate" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-date" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 144%">November 9, 2007</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 144%">)</span></div>
+    </div>
+
+    <hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pageI">[pg I]</span><a name="PgI" id="PgI" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+      <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.73em"><span style="font-size: 173%">BRITTANY &amp; ITS BYWAYS</span></p>
+      <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">some account of</span><br /><span style="font-variant: small-caps">
+      its inhabitants and its antiquities;</span><br /><span style="font-variant: small-caps">
+              during a residence in that country.</span></p>
+      <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.73em"><span style="font-size: 173%">BY MRS. BURY PALLISER</span></p>
+      
+      
+      <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image00.jpg" width="575" height="378" alt="" /></div>
+      <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">with numerous illustrations</span></p>
+      <div class="tei tei-tb"><hr style="width: 25%" /></div>
+      <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.44em"><span style="font-size: 144%">London</span></p>
+      <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.44em"><span style="font-size: 144%">1869</span></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+      <a name="pdf1" id="pdf1"></a>
+      <h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Contents</span></h1>
+      <ul class="tei tei-index tei-index-toc"><li><a href="#toc2">Contents.</a></li><li><a href="#toc5">List of Illustrations.</a></li><li><a href="#toc6">Britanny and Its Byways.</a></li><li><a href="#toc8">Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany.</a></li><li><a href="#toc10">Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany.</a></li><li><a href="#toc12">Index.</a></li><li><a href="#toc14">Transcribers' Notes</a></li></ul>
+    </div>
+
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="tei tei-body" style="margin-bottom: 6.00em; margin-top: 6.00em">
+<hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pageIII">[pg III]</span><a name="PgIII" id="PgIII" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<a name="toc2" id="toc2"></a>
+<a name="pdf3" id="pdf3"></a>
+<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Contents.</span></h1>
+
+<div class="tei tei-tb"><hr style="width: 20%" /></div>
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Cherbourg</span></span>—Mont du Roule—Visit of Queen Victoria—Harbour,
+<a href="#Pg001" class="tei tei-ref">1</a>—Breakwater—Dock-Yard, <a href="#Pg002" class="tei tei-ref">2</a>—Chantereyne—Hôpital
+de la Marine, <a href="#Pg003" class="tei tei-ref">3</a>—Castle—Statue of Napoleon I.—Library—Church
+of La Trinité, <a href="#Pg004" class="tei tei-ref">4</a>—Environs—Octeville,
+<a href="#Pg005" class="tei tei-ref">5</a>—Lace-school of the Sœurs de la Providence, <a href="#Pg011" class="tei tei-ref">11</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Querqueville</span></span>—Church of St. Germain, <a href="#Pg005" class="tei tei-ref">5</a>—Château of the
+Comte de Tocqueville, <a href="#Pg006" class="tei tei-ref">6</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Tourlaville</span></span>—Château, <a href="#Pg007" class="tei tei-ref">7</a>—Crêpes, <a href="#Pg011" class="tei tei-ref">11</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Martinvast</span></span>—Château, <a href="#Pg012" class="tei tei-ref">12</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Bricquebec</span></span>—Castle—History, <a href="#Pg012" class="tei tei-ref">12</a>—Valognes, <a href="#Pg014" class="tei tei-ref">14</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">St. Sauveur</span></span>-le-Vicomte—Demesne—History, <a href="#Pg015" class="tei tei-ref">15</a>—Castle—Convent—Abbey, <a href="#Pg016" class="tei tei-ref">16</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Périers</span></span>, <a href="#Pg017" class="tei tei-ref">17</a>—La Haye-du-Puits, <a href="#Pg017" class="tei tei-ref">17</a>—Abbey of Lessay—Mode
+of Washing—Inn-signs, <a href="#Pg018" class="tei tei-ref">18</a>—Church, <a href="#Pg019" class="tei tei-ref">19</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Coutances</span></span>—Cathedral—Churches, <a href="#Pg019" class="tei tei-ref">19</a>—Fête of St. Fiacre, <a href="#Pg020" class="tei tei-ref">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Granville</span></span>—Situation—History—Church, <a href="#Pg021" class="tei tei-ref">21</a>—View from the
+"Roc"—Bathing-machines—Defeat of the Vendean army—Death
+of La Rochejacquelin, <a href="#Pg022" class="tei tei-ref">22</a>—Costume of the Women—Environs—St.
+Pair, <a href="#Pg023" class="tei tei-ref">23</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Avranches</span></span>—Extensive View—Scene of Absolution of Henry II.—Cemetery,
+<a href="#Pg024" class="tei tei-ref">24</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Pontorson</span></span>—Story of the Lady Typhaine, <a href="#Pg024" class="tei tei-ref">24</a>—Government by
+Du Guesclin—Mont St. Michel, <a href="#Pg025" class="tei tei-ref">25</a>—Chapel of St. Aubert—Visits
+of English kings—Pilgrimages of Kings of France, <a href="#Pg026" class="tei tei-ref">26</a>—Convent
+of "La Merveille," <a href="#Pg027" class="tei tei-ref">27</a>—Isle of La Tombeleine—Prison,
+<a href="#Pg028" class="tei tei-ref">28</a>—The Iron Cage, <a href="#Pg029" class="tei tei-ref">29</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Dol-de-Bretagne</span></span>—Street Architecture, <a href="#Pg030" class="tei tei-ref">30</a>—Cathedral, <a href="#Pg031" class="tei tei-ref">31</a>—Tomb
+of Bishop James—Chapel of St. Samson, <a href="#Pg032" class="tei tei-ref">32</a>—Monks,
+<a href="#Pg033" class="tei tei-ref">33</a>—Dyke, <a href="#Pg034" class="tei tei-ref">34</a>—Menhir, <a href="#Pg035" class="tei tei-ref">35</a>—Château of Combourg, <a href="#Pg036" class="tei tei-ref">36</a>—Chateaubriand,
+<a href="#Pg037" class="tei tei-ref">37</a>.</p>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pageIV">[pg IV]</span><a name="PgIV" id="PgIV" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Cancale</span></span>—Oysters, <a href="#Pg037" class="tei tei-ref">37</a>—Wretched public vehicles, <a href="#Pg038" class="tei tei-ref">38</a>—Bay, <a href="#Pg039" class="tei tei-ref">39</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">St. Malo</span></span>—Situation, <a href="#Pg039" class="tei tei-ref">39</a>—Sea-wall, <a href="#Pg040" class="tei tei-ref">40</a>—Tomb of Chateaubriand—Memorials
+of him, <a href="#Pg041" class="tei tei-ref">41</a>—Watch-dogs, <a href="#Pg042" class="tei tei-ref">42</a>—Castle—History,
+<a href="#Pg043" class="tei tei-ref">43</a>—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Dinard</span></span>, <a href="#Pg044" class="tei tei-ref">44</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Dinan</span></span>—Ascent of the Rance—Statue of Du Guesclin, <a href="#Pg044" class="tei tei-ref">44</a>—Siege
+of 1359—Duel of Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorbéry,
+<a href="#Pg045" class="tei tei-ref">45</a>—Castle of Montfilant—Story of Gilles de Bretagne,
+<a href="#Pg046" class="tei tei-ref">46</a>—Lunatic Asylum—Castle of Dinan, <a href="#Pg050" class="tei tei-ref">50</a>—Church of
+St. Sauveur, <a href="#Pg051" class="tei tei-ref">51</a>—Museum, <a href="#Pg052" class="tei tei-ref">52</a>—Environs—Château of La
+Bellière, <a href="#Pg054" class="tei tei-ref">54</a>—Château of La Garaye—Count Claude de la
+Garaye and his Wife, <a href="#Pg057" class="tei tei-ref">57</a>—Jugon, <a href="#Pg061" class="tei tei-ref">61</a>—Castle of La Hunaudaye,
+<a href="#Pg062" class="tei tei-ref">62</a>—Legend of La Hunaudaye, <a href="#Pg063" class="tei tei-ref">63</a>—Forest of La
+Hunaudaye—The Chouan War, <a href="#Pg066" class="tei tei-ref">66</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Lamballe</span></span>—Jeanne la Boiteuse—War of Succession, <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref">67</a>—Temple
+of Lanleff, <a href="#Pg068" class="tei tei-ref">68</a>—Tradition of the blood-spots, <a href="#Pg070" class="tei tei-ref">70</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">St. Brieuc</span></span>—Palais de Justice—Tour de Cesson, <a href="#Pg071" class="tei tei-ref">71</a>—Church
+of Notre Dame—Review of his army by James II. of England,
+<a href="#Pg072" class="tei tei-ref">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Guingamp</span></span>—Situation—Fishing in the Trieux—Sanctuary of
+Notre Dame du Bon Secours—"Frérie blanche," <a href="#Pg072" class="tei tei-ref">72</a>—Fountain
+of Duke Peter—Women of Guingamp—Knitting and
+spinning—Ransom for Du Guesclin, <a href="#Pg074" class="tei tei-ref">74</a>—Chapel of St.
+Leonard patron saint of prisoners—Curious charms against
+fever, <a href="#Pg075" class="tei tei-ref">75</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Paimpol</span></span>—Château de Boisgelin, <a href="#Pg075" class="tei tei-ref">75</a>—Abbey of Beauport, <a href="#Pg076" class="tei tei-ref">76</a>—Situation
+of Paimpol—Suspension-bridge of Lézardrieux, <a href="#Pg080" class="tei tei-ref">80</a>—Château
+of La Roche Jagu, <a href="#Pg081" class="tei tei-ref">81</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Pontrieux</span></span>—Castle of La Roche Derrien, <a href="#Pg082" class="tei tei-ref">82</a>—"War of the two
+Jeannes"—Church of Langoat—Monument of Ste. Pompée,
+<a href="#Pg083" class="tei tei-ref">83</a>—Burial customs—Excellence of roads in Brittany, <a href="#Pg084" class="tei tei-ref">84</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Kermartin</span></span>—St. Ives, <a href="#Pg084" class="tei tei-ref">84</a>—Inscription at his birthplace—Interior
+of a Breton dwelling, <a href="#Pg086" class="tei tei-ref">86</a>—Church of Minihy-Tréguier—Will
+of St. Ives, <a href="#Pg087" class="tei tei-ref">87</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Tréguier</span></span>—Cathedral—Burial-place of St. Ives, <a href="#Pg088" class="tei tei-ref">88</a>—Constable
+Clisson, <a href="#Pg089" class="tei tei-ref">89</a>—Cemetery, <a href="#Pg090" class="tei tei-ref">90</a>—Skull-boxes, <a href="#Pg091" class="tei tei-ref">91</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Lannion</span></span>—Difficulty of the road, <a href="#Pg091" class="tei tei-ref">91</a>—Perros Guirec—Ploumanach—Roche
+Pendue, <a href="#Pg092" class="tei tei-ref">92</a>—Situation of Lannion—Fishery—Sea-weed
+gathering, <a href="#Pg094" class="tei tei-ref">94</a>—Castle of Touquédec, <a href="#Pg095" class="tei tei-ref">95</a>—Château
+of Kergrist, <a href="#Pg096" class="tei tei-ref">96</a>.</p>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pageV">[pg V]</span><a name="PgV" id="PgV" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Morlaix</span></span>—Situation—Timbered houses, <a href="#Pg097" class="tei tei-ref">97</a>—History, <a href="#Pg098" class="tei tei-ref">98</a>—Breton
+characteristics, <a href="#Pg099" class="tei tei-ref">99</a>—Protestant Missions, <a href="#Pg100" class="tei tei-ref">100</a>—"Fontaine
+des Anglais," <a href="#Pg102" class="tei tei-ref">102</a>—River Scenery, <a href="#Pg103" class="tei tei-ref">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">St. Pol de Léon</span></span>, <a href="#Pg103" class="tei tei-ref">103</a>—Religious Monuments—Character of the
+Léonnais, <a href="#Pg104" class="tei tei-ref">104</a>—Church of Notre Dame de Creizker—Legend of
+St. Génévroc, <a href="#Pg105" class="tei tei-ref">105</a>—Cathedral, <a href="#Pg106" class="tei tei-ref">106</a>—St. Pol and the Dragon,
+<a href="#Pg109" class="tei tei-ref">109</a>—Ursuline Convent—"Droit de Motte," <a href="#Pg110" class="tei tei-ref">110</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Roscoff</span></span>—Contraband trade with England—Vegetable produce,
+<a href="#Pg111" class="tei tei-ref">111</a>—Historic importance, <a href="#Pg112" class="tei tei-ref">112</a>—Church—Island of Batz—Enormous
+old fig-tree, <a href="#Pg113" class="tei tei-ref">113</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">St. Thégonnec Station</span></span>—Cabaret—Church, <a href="#Pg114" class="tei tei-ref">114</a>—Guimiliau
+Church—Sculptures, <a href="#Pg115" class="tei tei-ref">115</a>—Calvary, <a href="#Pg116" class="tei tei-ref">116</a>—Buckwheat, <a href="#Pg117" class="tei tei-ref">117</a>—Castle
+and Church of La Roche Maurice, <a href="#Pg118" class="tei tei-ref">118</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Brest</span></span>—Situation, <a href="#Pg118" class="tei tei-ref">118</a>—Harbour, <a href="#Pg119" class="tei tei-ref">119</a>—Church of the Folgoët—Legend,
+<a href="#Pg120" class="tei tei-ref">120</a>—Kersanton stone, <a href="#Pg122" class="tei tei-ref">122</a>—Sculptures in Kersanton
+stone, <a href="#Pg123" class="tei tei-ref">123</a>—The Fool's Well, <a href="#Pg124" class="tei tei-ref">124</a>—Exterior of Church,
+<a href="#Pg125" class="tei tei-ref">125</a>—Churchyard, <a href="#Pg127" class="tei tei-ref">127</a>—Monthly Fair of Brest—Peasants'
+Costumes, <a href="#Pg133" class="tei tei-ref">133</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Finistère</span></span>—Abbey of St. Mathieu, <a href="#Pg129" class="tei tei-ref">129</a>—Sea-fights, <a href="#Pg130" class="tei tei-ref">130</a>—Pont
+Launay and Châteaulin, <a href="#Pg134" class="tei tei-ref">134</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Quimper</span></span>, <a href="#Pg135" class="tei tei-ref">135</a>—Legend of St. Corentin, <a href="#Pg137" class="tei tei-ref">137</a>—Cathedral, <a href="#Pg139" class="tei tei-ref">139</a>—National
+costume, <a href="#Pg140" class="tei tei-ref">140</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Concarneau</span></span>, <a href="#Pg142" class="tei tei-ref">142</a>—Sardine Fishery, <a href="#Pg143" class="tei tei-ref">143</a>—Aquarium, <a href="#Pg147" class="tei tei-ref">147</a>—Dolmen
+and Rocking-stone of Trégunc—Château of Rustéphan,
+<a href="#Pg149" class="tei tei-ref">149</a>—Valley of Pontaven, <a href="#Pg150" class="tei tei-ref">150</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Quimperlé</span></span>—Fishing, <a href="#Pg151" class="tei tei-ref">151</a>—Buildings—Tomb of St. Gurloës,
+<a href="#Pg152" class="tei tei-ref">152</a>—Tomb of John de Montfort—Ruins of St. Columban,
+<a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref">153</a>—Dirtiness of the Bretons—Animals and Farm produce—Butter
+Indulgence, <a href="#Pg154" class="tei tei-ref">154</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Lorient</span></span>—Bisson and the Pirates, <a href="#Pg155" class="tei tei-ref">155</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Hennebont</span></span>—Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, <a href="#Pg156" class="tei tei-ref">156</a>—Church
+of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, <a href="#Pg157" class="tei tei-ref">157</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Ste. Anne D'auray</span></span>, <a href="#Pg158" class="tei tei-ref">158</a>—Scala Sancta—Fête, <a href="#Pg159" class="tei tei-ref">159</a>—Chartreuse,
+<a href="#Pg160" class="tei tei-ref">160</a>—Battle, <a href="#Pg161" class="tei tei-ref">161</a>—Deaf and Dumb School, <a href="#Pg164" class="tei tei-ref">164</a>—Massacre
+of Quiberon, <a href="#Pg165" class="tei tei-ref">165</a>—Champ des Martyrs, <a href="#Pg168" class="tei tei-ref">168</a>—Celtic
+Remains, <a href="#Pg169" class="tei tei-ref">169</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Locmariaker</span></span>—Tumulus—Celtic and other Remains, <a href="#Pg170" class="tei tei-ref">170</a>—Tumulus
+of Gavr' Inis, <a href="#Pg175" class="tei tei-ref">175</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Carnac</span></span>—Celtic Remains—Menhirs of Kermario, <a href="#Pg177" class="tei tei-ref">177</a>—Legend
+of St. Cornély, <a href="#Pg178" class="tei tei-ref">178</a>—Jade Celts, &amp;c., at Plouharnel, <a href="#Pg180" class="tei tei-ref">180</a>—Dolmen
+of Concorro, <a href="#Pg181" class="tei tei-ref">181</a>.</p>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pageVI">[pg VI]</span><a name="PgVI" id="PgVI" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Vannes</span></span>—History—Promenade, <a href="#Pg183" class="tei tei-ref">183</a>—Cathedral, <a href="#Pg184" class="tei tei-ref">184</a>—Château
+Gaillau—Tour du Connétable, <a href="#Pg185" class="tei tei-ref">185</a>—Model Village of Korner-hoët,
+<a href="#Pg187" class="tei tei-ref">187</a>—Peninsula of Rhuys, <a href="#Pg188" class="tei tei-ref">188</a>—Fortress of Sucinio,
+<a href="#Pg189" class="tei tei-ref">189</a>—Abbey of St. Gildas, <a href="#Pg192" class="tei tei-ref">192</a>—Abelard and the Breton
+Monks, <a href="#Pg193" class="tei tei-ref">193</a>—The Breton "Blue Beard," <a href="#Pg194" class="tei tei-ref">194</a>—Butte d'Arzon—Castle
+of Elven, <a href="#Pg199" class="tei tei-ref">199</a>—Growth of Chestnuts, <a href="#Pg203" class="tei tei-ref">203</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Ploërmel</span></span>, <a href="#Pg203" class="tei tei-ref">203</a>—Church, <a href="#Pg204" class="tei tei-ref">204</a>—Tombs, <a href="#Pg205" class="tei tei-ref">205</a>—Column of the
+Thirty, <a href="#Pg206" class="tei tei-ref">206</a>—Battle of the Thirty, <a href="#Pg207" class="tei tei-ref">207</a>—Château of Josselin,
+<a href="#Pg209" class="tei tei-ref">209</a>—Church of Josselin, <a href="#Pg213" class="tei tei-ref">213</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Montfort-sur-mer</span></span>—Forest of Paimpont—Fairy tales, <a href="#Pg215" class="tei tei-ref">215</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Rennes</span></span>, ancient capital of Brittany—Entry of Henry IV.—Scenery
+of the Loire, <a href="#Pg216" class="tei tei-ref">216</a>—Castle of Champtoceaux, <a href="#Pg218" class="tei tei-ref">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Nantes</span></span>—Cathedral, <a href="#Pg221" class="tei tei-ref">221</a>—Tombs, <a href="#Pg222" class="tei tei-ref">222</a>—Castle—Anne of Brittany,
+<a href="#Pg223" class="tei tei-ref">223</a>—Promenades and Boulevards—Museum, <a href="#Pg227" class="tei tei-ref">227</a>—Jardin
+des Plantes—Descent of the Loire—The Noyades, <a href="#Pg228" class="tei tei-ref">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">St. Nazaire</span></span>—Historical associations, <a href="#Pg230" class="tei tei-ref">230</a>—Le Croisic,
+<a href="#Pg232" class="tei tei-ref">232</a>—Salt-pans, <a href="#Pg233" class="tei tei-ref">233</a>—Costume of the Paludiers, <a href="#Pg234" class="tei tei-ref">234</a>—Saulniers—Chouan:
+origin of the name and of the War, <a href="#Pg241" class="tei tei-ref">241</a>—Church
+of Batz, <a href="#Pg243" class="tei tei-ref">243</a>—Situation of Le Croisic, <a href="#Pg244" class="tei tei-ref">244</a>—Chapel of St.
+Goustan, <a href="#Pg245" class="tei tei-ref">245</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Guérande</span></span>—Church of St Aubin—Chapel of Notre Dame
+Blanche, <a href="#Pg246" class="tei tei-ref">246</a>—La Roche Bernard, <a href="#Pg247" class="tei tei-ref">247</a>—Wedding Festivities,
+<a href="#Pg248" class="tei tei-ref">248</a>—National Music—Female Costume—Fête de la Vierge
+and of the Emperor, <a href="#Pg249" class="tei tei-ref">249</a>—Scenery of the River Loch, <a href="#Pg250" class="tei tei-ref">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Belle Isle</span></span>—Le Palais—M. Trochu's Model Farm, <a href="#Pg251" class="tei tei-ref">251</a>—Breton
+fatalism, <a href="#Pg252" class="tei tei-ref">252</a>—Grotte du Port Coton, <a href="#Pg255" class="tei tei-ref">255</a>—Historical associations
+of Belle Isle, <a href="#Pg256" class="tei tei-ref">256</a>—Fishery, <a href="#Pg257" class="tei tei-ref">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Pont L'abbé</span></span>, <a href="#Pg257" class="tei tei-ref">257</a>—Costumes, <a href="#Pg258" class="tei tei-ref">258</a>—Church, <a href="#Pg259" class="tei tei-ref">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Loctudy</span></span>—Romanesque Church, <a href="#Pg261" class="tei tei-ref">261</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Torche de Penmarch</span></span>, <a href="#Pg262" class="tei tei-ref">262</a>—Church of St. Guenolé, <a href="#Pg263" class="tei tei-ref">263</a>—"Le
+filet saint"—Ruins of the old Town, <a href="#Pg264" class="tei tei-ref">264</a>—Fontenelle
+the Leaguer, <a href="#Pg267" class="tei tei-ref">267</a>—Church of St. Nonna, <a href="#Pg268" class="tei tei-ref">268</a>—Menhirs at
+Kerscaven, <a href="#Pg269" class="tei tei-ref">269</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Audierne</span></span>—Lighthouse—Bathing-machines, <a href="#Pg269" class="tei tei-ref">269</a>—Town, <a href="#Pg270" class="tei tei-ref">270</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Pointe Du Raz</span></span>—Popular superstitions—Church of St. Collédoc,
+<a href="#Pg271" class="tei tei-ref">271</a>—"Enfer de Plogoff"—Island of Sein—Druidesses,
+<a href="#Pg272" class="tei tei-ref">272</a>—Dangerous passage, <a href="#Pg273" class="tei tei-ref">273</a>—Baie des Trépassés—Submerged
+city of Is, <a href="#Pg274" class="tei tei-ref">274</a>—Legend of King Gradlon and his
+daughter Dahut, <a href="#Pg275" class="tei tei-ref">275</a>.</p>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pageVII">[pg VII]</span><a name="PgVII" id="PgVII" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Douarnenez</span></span>—Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, <a href="#Pg276" class="tei tei-ref">276</a>—Chapel
+of Notre Dame de Comfort—Wheel of Sacring-Bells—Town
+of Douarnenez, <a href="#Pg279" class="tei tei-ref">279</a>—Pardon of Ste. Anne-de-la-Palue, <a href="#Pg280" class="tei tei-ref">280</a>—Costume,
+<a href="#Pg281" class="tei tei-ref">281</a>—Church of Ste. Anne—Procession, <a href="#Pg282" class="tei tei-ref">282</a>—Holy
+Well of Ste. Anne, <a href="#Pg285" class="tei tei-ref">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Scaër</span></span>—Old Customs and Superstitions, <a href="#Pg285" class="tei tei-ref">285</a>—Wrestling—"Pierres
+de Croix," <a href="#Pg286" class="tei tei-ref">286</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Le Faouét</span></span>—Chapel of St. Barbe, <a href="#Pg287" class="tei tei-ref">287</a>—Wedding ceremonies
+and amusements, <a href="#Pg288" class="tei tei-ref">288</a>—Fishing, <a href="#Pg289" class="tei tei-ref">289</a>—Old Breton superstitious
+still prevalent—Lavandières de la Nuit, <a href="#Pg290" class="tei tei-ref">290</a>—Church of
+St. Fiacre—Elaborately carved Rood-screen, <a href="#Pg293" class="tei tei-ref">293</a>—Painted
+glass—Ruined Castle of Poncallec—Plot of Cellamare, <a href="#Pg294" class="tei tei-ref">294</a>—Montagnes
+Noires, <a href="#Pg296" class="tei tei-ref">296</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Carhaix</span></span>—Situation, <a href="#Pg297" class="tei tei-ref">297</a>—Statue of La Tour d'Auvergne, <a href="#Pg298" class="tei tei-ref">298</a>—Fair
+and Market—Church of St. Tremeur—Skull-boxes, <a href="#Pg299" class="tei tei-ref">299</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Huelgoat</span></span>, <a href="#Pg300" class="tei tei-ref">300</a>—Lead-mines, <a href="#Pg301" class="tei tei-ref">301</a>—Cascade of St. Herbot—Chapel
+of St. Herbot, <a href="#Pg303" class="tei tei-ref">303</a>—His tomb, <a href="#Pg304" class="tei tei-ref">304</a>—Patron of cattle—Offerings
+of horsehair and cows' tails, <a href="#Pg304" class="tei tei-ref">304</a>—Homeward
+journey, <a href="#Pg307" class="tei tei-ref">307</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Useful Dates</span></span> in the History of Brittany           <a href="#Pg309" class="tei tei-ref">309</a></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Chronological Table</span></span> of the Dukes of Brittany      <a href="#Pg310" class="tei tei-ref">310</a></p>
+</div>
+<hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+   <a name="pdf4" id="pdf4"></a>
+   <a name="toc5" id="toc5"></a>
+   <h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">List of Illustrations.</span></h1>
+
+   <div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> 
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Vignette</span></span>—St. Michael's Mount, <a href="#PgI" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">Title-page</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1. Querqueville Church, <a href="#Pg006" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">6</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">2. Plan of Querqueville Church, <a href="#Pg006" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">6</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">3. Château of Tourlaville, <a href="#Pg009" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">9</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">4. Castle of Bricquebec, <a href="#Pg013" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">13</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">5. Badge of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, <a href="#Pg017" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">17</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">6. Coutances Cathedral, <a href="#Pg020" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">20</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, <a href="#Pg031" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">31</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">8. Front of the Tomb, <a href="#Pg032" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">32</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">9. Menhir, near Dol, <a href="#Pg035" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">35</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">10. Château of Combourg, <a href="#Pg037" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">37</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, <a href="#Pg038" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">38</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand's Tomb, <a href="#Pg040" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">40</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, <a href="#Pg052" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">52</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">14. Château of La Bellière, <a href="#Pg054" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">54</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">15. Chimney, Château of La Bellière, <a href="#Pg056" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">56</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">16. Château of La Garaye, <a href="#Pg060" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">60</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">17. Section of Lanleff Church, <a href="#Pg069" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">69</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">18. Plan of Lanleff Church, <a href="#Pg070" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">70</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">19. Fountain of Duke Peter, <a href="#Pg073" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">73</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">20. Abbey of Beauport, <a href="#Pg077" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">77</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">21. Skull-box, <a href="#Pg091" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">91</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">22. The <span class="tei tei-corr" style="text-align: left">Creizker</span>, <a href="#Pg107" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">107</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">23. Calvary, Guimiliau, <a href="#Pg116" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">116</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">24. The Fool's Well, Folgoët, <a href="#Pg124" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">124</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, <a href="#Pg131" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">131</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant, <a href="#Pg133" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">133</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin, <a href="#Pg135" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">135</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">28. Begger, Quimper, <a href="#Pg141" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">141</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, <a href="#Pg143" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">143</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">30. Dolmen, Trégunc, <a href="#Pg146" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">146</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">31. Rocking-Stone, Trégunc, <a href="#Pg148" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">148</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">32. Château of Rustéphan, <a href="#Pg150" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">150</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d'Auray, <a href="#Pg159" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">159</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, <a href="#Pg169" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">169</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, <a href="#Pg171" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">171</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, <a href="#Pg173" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">173</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr' Inis, <a href="#Pg175" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">175</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr' Inis, <a href="#Pg176" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">176</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">40. Dolmen of Corcorro, <a href="#Pg182" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">182</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">41. Castle of Elven, <a href="#Pg200" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">200</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">42. Column of the Thirty, <a href="#Pg206" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">206</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">43. Château of Josselin, <a href="#Pg212" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">212</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, <a href="#Pg235" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">235</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, <a href="#Pg237" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">237</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, <a href="#Pg239" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">239</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">47. La Roche Bernard, <a href="#Pg247" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">247</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, <a href="#Pg253" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">253</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">49. Device of Fouquet, <a href="#Pg257" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">257</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">50. Peasant Girl, Pont l'Abbé, <a href="#Pg258" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">258</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, <a href="#Pg260" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">260</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">52. Torche of Penmarch, <a href="#Pg262" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">262</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch, <a href="#Pg264" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">264</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">54. Church of Guenolé, Penmarch, <a href="#Pg265" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">265</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">55. Fleur-de-lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, <a href="#Pg269" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">269</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">56. Pointe du Raz, <a href="#Pg270" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">270</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, <a href="#Pg277" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">277</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, <a href="#Pg279" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">279</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">59. Costume of a Finistère Bride, <a href="#Pg281" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">281</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, <a href="#Pg284" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">284</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">61. Cross Stones, <a href="#Pg286" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">286</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">62. Rood-screen or Jubé, St. Fiacre, <a href="#Pg291" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">291</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, <a href="#Pg304" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">304</a></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, <a href="#Pg305" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">305</a></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page001">[pg 001]</span><a name="Pg001" id="Pg001" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<a name="toc6" id="toc6"></a>
+<a name="pdf7" id="pdf7"></a>
+<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Britanny and Its Byways.</span></h1>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole
+to Cherbourg. It was dusk when we entered the
+harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing
+its beauty until the following morning, when we
+ascended a height behind the town, called the Mont
+du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by carriage,
+the Emperor having ordered a road to be
+made up to the fort which crowns the heights, on the
+occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in 1858, of her
+Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were
+immediately set to work, and, in a few days, an
+easy carriage-road was finished, up which the Emperor
+drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace.
+The view from the fort is lovely, commanding the
+whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin,
+from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to
+Barfleur. The water of the harbour, owing to its
+great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we
+quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in
+likening to that of the Bay of Naples. Across its
+entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of
+the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet
+of our yacht squadron, which the day before had
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page002">[pg 002]</span><a name="Pg002" id="Pg002" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We
+took a boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded
+at each end by a fort, with another in the
+centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy
+weather the sea washes over the breakwater, and
+sometimes for days prevents all communication
+between the forts, and the supplies consequently are
+stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells
+of the Venus' ear, which inhabits the rocks of the
+breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the fish-market
+exposed for sale, and, on expressing some
+curiosity as to how they were eaten, the landlord
+had a dish prepared for us. These fish resemble
+the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require
+a great deal of beating with a wooden mallet to
+make them tender enough to eat. They are called
+"ormer," or "gofish." The table d'hôte was very
+plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout
+Normandy and Brittany, cider, the customary
+beverage of the country, was always placed upon
+the table. It varies very much in quality in different
+districts; that of Bayeux is most esteemed.</p>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next morning we set out for the dockyard.
+To obtain admission, it first requires a letter from
+the English Consul, who lives in a charming spot
+overlooking the sea, at the foot of the Montagne
+du Roule. Furnished with this, we repaired to the
+Préfet Maritime, who gave us an order to be presented
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page003">[pg 003]</span><a name="Pg003" id="Pg003" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+at the dockyard gate, where it was countersigned,
+and a guide appointed to show us over the
+establishment. We made the tour round all the
+basins and workshops, and saw the canot impérial
+used by the Emperor on the visit of our Queen,—a
+most elegant boat, beautifully carved with marine
+subjects. The model of a Roman trireme, or galley,
+is in one of the basins, and in the little museum,
+or Salle des Modèles, are the two flagstones that
+covered the grave of Napoleon, and were deposited
+here by the Prince de Joinville, when he returned
+with the Emperor's remains from St. Helena. The
+dockyard partly stands on a spot called Chantereyne.
+The Empress Matilda, fleeing from Stephen, was
+overtaken by a tempest when making for Cherbourg,
+and vowed, if her life were spared, to build a church.
+The ship was in jeopardy, but the pilot cheered
+her spirits, and, when gaining the port, exclaimed,
+"Chantes Reine! we are safe in harbour." The
+place where she landed has always retained the
+name; and here the Empress, in fulfilment of her
+vow, founded an abbey, which was destroyed in the
+Revolution. The habitations of the nuns is the
+present provisional Hôpital de la Marine; a new one,
+containing above a thousand beds, being in course
+of construction, and a modern church, called Eglise
+du Vœu, has been erected in another part of the
+town in place of that of the Empress Matilda.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page004">[pg 004]</span><a name="Pg004" id="Pg004" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Henry II. held his court in the castle with his
+empress-mother in great splendour; it had formerly
+been tenanted by Duke William of Normandy before
+his invasion of England, and, within its enclosure,
+he built a church also, in consequence of a
+vow made during a serious illness. There are few
+objects of interest in the town of Cherbourg. The
+women all wear the large Normandy cap. In the
+Place d'Armes is a bronze equestrian statue of the
+Emperor Napoleon I., and on the pedestal is inscribed
+"J'avois résolu de renouveler à Cherbourg
+les merveilles de l'Egypte."  In the Library is a
+curiously sculptured chimney-piece of the fifteenth
+century, coloured and gilt, removed from a room of
+the abbey. The principal church, La Trinité, is a
+strange jumble of architecture. There is some beautiful
+tracery in the windows, and a fine boss (clef pendante)
+in the south porch, now restored. On a board
+in the church is an inscription, setting forth it was
+built in consequence of a "vœu solennel des habitans
+de Cherbourg en 1450 de la délivrance de la domination
+étrangère"—that is, from the English, whose defeat
+the same year at Formigny, by the Constable de
+Richemont, expelled them for ever from Normandy.</p>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is much to see in the environs of Cherbourg,
+which makes it a good central point for
+excursions. We drove by the fort of Octeville,
+where a magnificent panoramic view is obtained,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page005">[pg 005]</span><a name="Pg005" id="Pg005" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+equalling in extent that from the Mont du Roule.
+A fisherman, who was standing by, told us the
+names of the numerous forts that bristle in every
+direction, and related to us the legend of the monk
+of Saire, who, having received the rent due to his
+father for some land, appropriated the money to his
+own use, and, on the tenant declaring he had paid
+the sum, adjured the evil one to carry him off, if he
+had ever received the money. The words were no
+sooner uttered than there came a flash of lightning,
+and the monk vanished: but he still appears in the
+roads of Cherbourg floating on the sea; when he sees
+a sailor, he cries "Save me, save me! I am about
+to sink!" but the hapless being who approaches to
+assist him is immediately dragged into the water, a
+peal of infernal laughter is heard, and the luckless
+mariner disappears for ever. We asked our guide if
+he believed in the phantom monk, but he was silent.</p>
+   
+   
+   
+   <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">
+   </p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image01.jpg" width="401" height="346" alt="" title="1. Querqueville Church." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">1. Querqueville Church.</div></div>
+   
+   
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Octeville we proceeded to Querqueville,
+where, in the same churchyard as the parochial
+church, stands a little church, named after St. Germain,
+the first apostle of the Cotentin, who, in the
+fifth century, landed from England on the coast of
+La Hogue, and preached Christianity in this district
+and the valley traversed by the river Saire, which
+falls into the sea near St. Vaast-la-Hogue. This
+tiny church, for it measures only 34 feet by 24, and
+is 11 feet high, is by some supposed to have been a
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page006">[pg 006]</span><a name="Pg006" id="Pg006" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+temple of the Gauls converted into a Christian place
+of worship; the nave and tower having been added to
+the old temple, which consists of a triple apse forming
+a regular trefoil, each of
+which has a domed top.
+We drove on to Nacqueville,
+the château of Comte
+Hippolyte de Tocqueville.
+The park is prettily laid
+out, a stream of water runs
+in front of the house, and
+a row of blue hydrangeas
+blazed forth in great beauty, with the relief of a
+background of dark firs. Time prevented us from
+pursuing our excursion further west, to see the
+famed cliffs of Jobourg.</p>
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image02.jpg" width="245" height="240" alt="" title="2. Plan of Querqueville Church." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">2. Plan of <br />Querqueville Church.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page007">[pg 007]</span><a name="Pg007" id="Pg007" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">To the east of Cherbourg a high road leads to
+Barfleur and the lighthouse of Gatteville, between
+which and the Isle of Wight is the narrowest point
+of the English Channel, passing by Saint-Pierre-Eglise,
+near which is the château of the late Alexis de
+Tocqueville, author of 'Democracy in America;' but
+we did not get further on the road than Tourlaville,
+the ancient château of the Ravalet family, upon
+whom tradition has heaped every crime imaginable.
+One seigneur entered the church with his hounds
+and stabbed the priest at the altar, because he refused
+to administer to him the consecrated element; another
+hanged some of his vassals, because they did
+not grind their corn at the seignorial mill, for
+"haute or basse justice" was then among the nobles'
+rights. Marguerite, a daughter of this ancient house,
+expiated, with her brother, their offences upon the
+scaffold at Paris. Every effort was made to spare
+their lives; but the King, or rather Queen Margot,
+was inexorable. The château of Tourlaville is beautifully
+situated; it is in the style of the Renaissance,
+with an angular tower, which <span class="tei tei-corr">recalls</span> that of Heidelberg
+Castle. The ground-floor consists of two large
+unfurnished rooms, and a staircase, with iron railing,
+leads to the story above. In one room hangs the
+portrait of a lady châteleine, in the costume of the
+period of Louis XIII., with the château of Tourlaville
+in the distance. On her left are eight Cupids
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page008">[pg 008]</span><a name="Pg008" id="Pg008" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+with bandages over their eyes, one in advance of the
+others is not blinded. From the lady's mouth is
+a label, with the inscription "Un (seul) me suffit."
+This is said to be the portrait of the Lady Marguerite,
+but the costume is of a later date. In one
+of the rooms is a chimney-piece covered with a
+variety of amatory devices and mottoes:—a Cupid
+blinded, holding a lighted torch, motto "Ce qui me
+donne la vie me cause la mort." Again, another
+Cupid with eyes bandaged, pouring water out of a
+vase to cool a flaming heart he holds in his hand,
+motto "Sa froideur me glace les veines et son ardeur
+brûle mon cœur." Six winged hearts flying at the
+approach of Cupid, but which are reached by his
+darts, "Même en fuyant l'on est pris." Further is
+a sentiment in verse:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Plusieurs sont atteints de ce feu,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mais il ne s'en guérit que fort peu.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Again,—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Ces deux n'en font qu'un.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image03.jpg" width="630" height="378" alt="" title="3. Château of Tourlaville." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">3. Château of Tourlaville.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A river in the foreground, in the distance a setting
+sun, motto "Ainsi puissai-je mourir." This assemblage
+of devices and mottoes is not applicable to
+any particular individual, but may be supposed to
+be merely an expression of the taste of the time.
+They are of the seventeenth century, when the
+Ravalet had been succeeded by the Franquetot
+family, who have since taken the name of Coigny.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page009">[pg 009]</span><a name="Pg009" id="Pg009" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page010">[pg 010]</span><a name="Pg010" id="Pg010" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page011">[pg 011]</span><a name="Pg011" id="Pg011" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Their arms, with several others, are in the little
+boudoir in one of the towers, called the Blue Chamber.
+Its walls are distempered blue, and the coverlet
+and hangings of the bed, with all the decorations of
+the room, are of the same colour. Having admired
+the lovely view from the "Tour des quatre vents,"
+we descended to the kitchen of the farmer who rents
+the house, which now belongs to the Tocqueville
+family. His wife was busily employed in making
+"crêpes," a favourite kind of cake in Normandy
+and Brittany. It is made generally of the flour
+of the sarrasin or buckwheat, mixed with milk or
+water, and spread into a kind of pancake, which is
+fried on an iron pan, resembling the Scotch griddle-cakes.
+Another variety, called "galette," is made
+of the same ingredients, but differs from the crêpe
+in its being made three or four times the thickness,
+and is therefore not so light. Though generally
+made of buckwheat, wheat or oat-flour is sometimes
+used; and in the towns, sugar and cinnamon and
+vanilla are added, and the simple character of the
+crêpe entirely changed under the hands of the confectioner.
+The little village of Tourlaville was
+famous for its glassworks, until supplanted by those
+of Gobain.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our return to Cherbourg we visited the lace
+school of the Sœurs de la Providence, where about
+two hundred girls are employed in making black
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page012">[pg 012]</span><a name="Pg012" id="Pg012" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+lace like that of Bayeux, which has now completely
+superseded the Chantilly; the manner of making
+both laces is similar. The old Chantilly has completely
+died out, and the modern manufacture extends
+the whole length of Normandy from Cherbourg
+to Bayeux. How the children can keep the
+bobbins from entangling is a marvel; there were
+as many as five hundred on one pillow. The lace-makers
+were chiefly employed in flounces, shawls,
+and other large works. These are all made in separate
+pieces, and united by the stitch called fine
+joining or "raboutissage." A half-shawl or "pointe"
+was divided into thirty segments. We passed the
+evening at the Etablissement, and next morning left
+Cherbourg.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The railway traverses the picturesque and rocky
+valley of Quincampoix to Martinvast, whose little
+Romanesque church stands close to the station, and
+at a short distance is the château of Martinvast,
+where its late proprietor, M. du Moncel, established
+a model farm. A monument has been erected to
+his memory in the church by the commune of
+Martinvast.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image04.jpg" width="400" height="374" alt="" title="4. Castle of Bricquebec." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">4. Castle of Bricquebec.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Sottevast we took the omnibus for Bricquebec,
+which lies nearly five miles from the station. Its
+ruined castle, dating from the end of the fourteenth
+century, with its lofty octagonal donjon, nearly a
+hundred feet high, standing on a high "motte" or
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page013">[pg 013]</span><a name="Pg013" id="Pg013" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+artificial mound, has a most imposing appearance.
+Bricquebec, the most considerable demesne of the
+Cotentins, was taken by King Henry V. from the
+Sire d'Estouteville, who had so gallantly defended
+Mont St. Michel against him. Henry gave Bricquebec
+to William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, the ill-fated
+favourite of Queen Margaret of Anjou, and
+he, on being taken prisoner by the French, sold it,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page014">[pg 014]</span><a name="Pg014" id="Pg014" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+to raise the money for his ransom, to Sir Bertie
+Entwistle, who fought at Agincourt, and who held
+it till the battle of Formigny expelled the English
+from Normandy, and Sir Bertie fell at St. Albans in
+the Lancastrian cause. The inn, "Hôtel du Vieux
+Château," is within the enclosure of the ruins—a
+most dilapidated old place; our dirty ill-furnished
+room next to a hayloft, the horses passing through
+the house to the stable, and every kind of litter and
+rubbish accumulated under the windows. Yet in
+the room we occupied had once slept our gracious
+Sovereign Queen Victoria. On a placard is inscribed,
+"Chambre de la famille royale d'Angleterre,
+18 Août 1857;" and below stairs is another, setting
+forth, "S. M. la Reine d'Angleterre, le Prince
+Albert, les Princesses Royale et Alice, le Prince
+Alfred, sont descendus à l'hôtel du Vieux Château le
+10 Août 1857." About a mile from Bricquebec is
+a Trappist convent; but we were not allowed admission
+beyond the parlour, where is sold a quantity of
+cutlery, not made—as we were given to understand
+when offered for sale—by the monks.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Regaining the railroad, we went on to Valognes,
+which has been styled the St. Germain of Normandy;
+a dull town, with worn-out houses, occupied
+by worn-out aristocratic families. The grass grows
+in the streets.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Here we left the rail and proceeded to Saint
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page015">[pg 015]</span><a name="Pg015" id="Pg015" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Sauveur-le-Vicomte. On entering the town, the
+castle is on the right of the road, the Abbey church
+on the left. The large demesne of Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte
+passed by marriage into the Harcourt
+family, and belonged, in the time of Edward III.,
+to Geoffrey d'Harcourt, whose fortress was one of
+the most formidable in Normandy. Banished from
+France, he went over to England and persuaded
+Edward III. to make a descent upon Normandy
+instead of Gascony, assuring him he would find rich
+towns and fair castles without any means of defence,
+and that his people would gain wealth enough to
+suffice them for twenty years to come. The King
+landed at La Hogue, or Saint Vaast-la-Hogue, as it
+is now called, where he knighted the Prince of Wales
+and made Warwick and Harcourt marshals of his
+army. They advanced in three divisions—the King
+and the Prince in the centre, the two marshals on
+the right and left—ravaging all before them, and
+not stopping in their victorious course till the great
+victory at Crecy. Harcourt subsequently met a
+traitor's fate. A force was sent against him, his army
+was routed, and, preferring death to being taken, he
+fought most valiantly until he was struck to the
+ground by French lances, when some men-at-arms
+dispatched him with their swords. He had sold the
+reversion of his castle to King Edward III., to whom
+it was confirmed by the treaty of Bretigny. Edward
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page016">[pg 016]</span><a name="Pg016" id="Pg016" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+bestowed the barony upon that pride of English
+chivalry, Sir John Chandos, in recompense for his
+great services in the wars. The square donjon and
+inner gate were built by Chandos. The castle is
+well preserved, and is now used as a hospice for
+orphans and aged women. The rooms are kept
+beautifully clean, and on a tablet in one of the corridors
+is written up "Dortoirs restaurés par la munificence
+de M. le Comte Georges d'Harcourt en
+mémoire de ses illustres ayeux, anciens Seigneurs de
+ce château, en 1838."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Benedictine convent also belonged to the
+Harcourts until the revolt of Geoffrey. It is now the
+property of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, who have
+rebuilt the fine Abbey church according to its former
+model. Originally built in the eleventh century, it
+was partly burnt in the fourteenth, and reconstructed
+in the fifteenth. The columns and arches of the
+nave are of the first period; the form of the church
+is a Latin cross, having an apse ornamented with a
+double row of lancet windows, richly sculptured.
+The sculptures are all executed by an untaught
+workman of the place, who died before he had completed
+the pulpit. To collect the funds necessary for
+the undertaking, the foundress travelled throughout
+Europe. Her tomb is in the church. "Julie
+Françoise Catherine Postel, née à Barfleur, 1756.
+Sœur Marie Madelaine, Fondatrice et première Superieure
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page017">[pg 017]</span><a name="Pg017" id="Pg017" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Générale de l'Institut des Ecoles Chrétiennes
+de la Miséricorde, morte en odeur de Sainteté
+16 Juillet 1846, à l'Abbaye de
+St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte." The
+badge of the sisterhood is a
+cross inscribed with their
+motto "L'obéissance jusqu'à
+la mort." Some of the party
+made an attempt at fishing
+in the little river Douve, but
+without success, though rewarded
+for their walk by a
+pretty view of the apse of the Abbey church, with
+its delicately-sculptured lancet windows, from the
+opposite side of the river.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image05.jpg" width="423" height="517" alt="" title="5. L'OBÉISSANCE JUSQU'À LA MORT." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">5. L'OBÉISSANCE <br />JUSQU'À LA MORT.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We hired a private carriage (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">voiture à volonté</span></span>) to
+Périers. After passing over a hilly road we crossed
+a marsh which extends from Carentan to the sea,
+and reached a town called La Haye-du-Puits—a
+singular name derived from the custom in the middle
+ages of surrounding the "motte" or enclosure upon
+which the donjon was built, with a wooden palisade,
+or sometimes with a thick hedge formed of thorns
+and branches of trees interlaced: hence La Haye-du-Puits,
+La Haye-Pesnel, and others. Here is a Norman
+church restored: all the capitals of the columns
+are of the same pattern.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Abbey church at Lessay, where next we
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page018">[pg 018]</span><a name="Pg018" id="Pg018" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+stopped, is of the twelfth century, and considered,
+with Coutances and Périers, to be the finest examples
+of Romanesque in the Cotentin. The arches are
+round, and all the architecture of the church, which
+has been restored, is of the same period. The Abbey
+of Lessay had transmarine jurisdiction and the right
+of presentation to the Priory of Boxgrove and other
+endowments in the diocese of Chichester. The
+Abbey house, now inhabited, is a fine modernised
+habitation. At Lessay we saw the manner of washing
+linen practised in many places throughout Normandy
+and Brittany. Being first roughly washed in the
+river, the clothes are placed in layers in a large cask,
+with a bunghole at the bottom, alternately with
+wood-ashes, and on the top is laid a piece of
+coarse sacking. Boiling water is poured over the
+top, which, as it passes through the linen, absorbs
+the soda of the ashes, escaping at the bottom and
+carrying away with it all impurities. This process
+is repeated several times till the clothes are perfectly
+white.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Throughout this part of the country the mistletoe
+hangs as the sign of a cabaret; and if cider is sold,
+some apples are fastened to the bush. On the road
+to Périers we crossed a "lande" or common, where
+we met numerous carts carrying sea sand, here used
+to mix with the heavy soil as manure.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Périers we slept at the little inn "La Croix
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page019">[pg 019]</span><a name="Pg019" id="Pg019" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Blanche," kept by Madame Casimir, the widow
+of a Polish officer, well known for her eccentricity
+and good cuisine. The entrance to the apartments
+in the inns is generally through the kitchen; in many
+the box bedstead (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">lit clos</span></span>) stands in the corner near
+the fire, Breton fashion. On a barber's shop we saw
+painted up "Içi l'on rajeunit." The church has a
+tall spire, and is one of the finest religious edifices in
+this part of Normandy—painted windows, the capitals
+of the columns of varied foliage, and fine groined
+clustered arches.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had a most perilous drive to Coutances, the
+coachman, "en ribote," drove us at a fearful pace,
+and we were thankful when we arrived in safety.
+The Norman cathedral is beautiful—so simple, so
+pure, and elegant; its tall towers terminating in spires;
+and the chapels being separated by open mullioned
+arches, great lightness is given to the interior. The
+Bishop of Coutances was officiating at the consecration
+of some stones for a new pavement; each flag
+was rubbed over and anointed with oil.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image06.jpg" width="545" height="623" alt="" title="6. Coutances Cathedral." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">6. Coutances Cathedral.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The church of St. Pierre has a handsome square
+tower, pierced gallery, and apse with a double row
+of columns. In the church of St. Nicholas we particularly
+noticed the fine bosses of the groined arches
+in the chancel. The fonts hereabouts have the serpent
+with the apple, and the cross carved upon the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page020">[pg 020]</span><a name="Pg020" id="Pg020" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+cover. The church was filled with pots of flowers
+they were employed in removing, for the day before
+had been the Fête of St. Fiacre, the patron of gardeners.
+St. Fiacre, or Fiaker, was an Irish monk of
+the seventh century, who, according to tradition,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page021">[pg 021]</span><a name="Pg021" id="Pg021" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+obtained from the Bishop of Meaux a grant of as
+much ground out of the forest as he could dig a
+trench round in one day's labour, for the purpose
+of making a garden and cultivating vegetables for
+travellers. Long time after, the peasants would
+show the ditch ten times longer than was expected,
+and relate how, when the Irishman took his stick to
+trace a line upon the soil, the earth dug itself under
+the point of the stick, while the forest trees fell right
+and left to save him the trouble of cutting them
+down. Outside the town are the remains of an aqueduct,
+with ivy-covered arches, said to be the work
+of the middle ages. It is a good point of view for
+sketching the cathedral, and the public gardens also
+command a fine prospect.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The approach to Granville is by a sharp descent.
+The town is built at the foot of a rocky promontory,
+the streets rising in terraces cut in the rock, on the
+top of which are the citadel and the church on the
+culminating point. It has been styled a Gibraltar
+in miniature. A fort was built here by Lord Scales,
+who commanded the English forces in the Cotentin
+in the time of Henry VI., and it was taken by
+surprise by Estouteville, the hero of Saint Michel.
+The church is cruciform in plan, the arms of the
+cross being equal. The axis of the nave is inclined
+to the left, as we afterwards observed that of the
+<span class="tei tei-corr">Creizker</span> at St. Pol de Léon. It has been lately
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page022">[pg 022]</span><a name="Pg022" id="Pg022" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+restored, and the painted windows are offerings of
+the different families of the town. The view from
+the top of the "Roc" is very extensive, including
+the Chausey islands and Jersey. A steamer runs
+twice a week to St. Helier. A deep cutting in the
+rocks opens on the beach, where the bathing-machines
+are stationed—curious little canvas huts
+carried upon poles, like sedan chairs. The tide here
+rises 45 feet. It was to Granville the Vendean
+army, commanded by La Rochejacquelin, appointed
+generalissimo at twenty-two, marched after their fatal
+step of crossing the Loire, expecting to make a junction
+with the English; but Granville was vigorously
+defended, contrary winds retarded the arrival of the
+English fleet, and the retreat from the coast, where
+it might have been supported by the English, was
+the ruin of the Royalist army. Of the 80,000 who
+crossed the Loire sixty days before, only 8000
+remained to make their last heroic resistance at
+Savenay, which ended the great Vendean war. A
+few months after, the hero of this noble army, the
+chivalrous Henri de la Rochejacquelin, fell from the
+bullet of a soldier whose life he had spared<a id="noteref_1" name="noteref_1" href="#note_1"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">1</span></span></a>:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Lorsqu'en des jours trop malheureux</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Pâlissait l'astre de la France;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Quand les cœurs les plus valeureux</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Semblaient perdre toute espérance,</span></div></div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page023">[pg 023]</span><a name="Pg023" id="Pg023" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em"><div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">L'antique honneur, la sainte foi,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Brillèrent dans cette contrée;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mourir pour son Dieu, pour son roi,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Fut le serment de la Vendée.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The costume of the Granville women is singular.
+They wear long black cloaks or mantles, edged with
+a frill of the same material, and on their heads a
+kind of bandeau or under-cap, turned up at the ears,
+surmounted by a white handkerchief, folded square
+and placed horizontally upon the head, like the
+plinth of a Grecian capital.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We drove to St. Pair, a small watering-place about
+two miles from Granville, nicely situated in a little
+sandy bay. In the middle of the church is the
+monumental tomb of St. Pair and another saint (St.
+Gault); their effigies, with mitre and crozier, side
+by side.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day we had a beautiful drive to Avranches.
+A winding road leads up to the town, which is
+situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a view
+of Brittany on one side and of Normandy on the
+other—a broad expanse of land and sea, the former
+extending over the valley of the Sée, with its network
+of small streams interlacing each other; Mont
+St. Michel appears in the distance. The finest view
+is from the Botanic gardens. The cathedral of
+Avranches fell at the end of the last century, but a
+model of it is preserved in the museum. One stone
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page024">[pg 024]</span><a name="Pg024" id="Pg024" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+remains, carefully surrounded by massive chains,
+with an inscription recording that it was the spot
+where Henry II. received absolution for the murder
+of Thomas à Becket:—"Sur cette pierre, içi à la
+porte de la cathédrale d'Avranches, après le meurtre
+de Thomas Becket, Archévêque de Cantorbéry,
+Henri II., roi d'Angleterre, duc de Normandie,
+reçut à genoux, des légats du pape, l'absolution apostolique,
+le dimanche xxii Mai, 1172." The cemetery
+is at the foot of the hill; the tombs are of granite,
+with the letters in relief: among them we read many
+well-known English names.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Pontorson we could find no remains of the
+castle of Du Guesclin, which was nearly surprised by
+the English under a captain named Felton, during
+the absence of Du Guesclin, with the connivance of
+the "chambrières" of the Lady Typhaine, his wife.
+Already their scaling-ladders were against the wall,
+when Juliana, Du Guesclin's sister, agitated by a
+troublous dream, awoke suddenly, seized a sword,
+rushed to the window, and upset three English who
+were coming up the ladder, and they were killed by
+the fall. The enemy retired. Next morning Du
+Guesclin, on his return to Pontorson, met Felton
+and his party, attacked them, and took them prisoners.
+When Typhaine saw Felton, she tauntingly
+exclaimed, "Comment, brave Felton, vous voilà
+encore! C'est trop pour un homme de cœur comme
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page025">[pg 025]</span><a name="Pg025" id="Pg025" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+vous d'être battu, dans une intervalle de douze heures,
+une fois par la sœur, une autre par le frère." Du
+Guesclin caused the faithless "chambrières" to be
+sewed up in sacks and flung into the river.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">John IV. Duke of <span class="tei tei-corr">Brittany</span> conferred upon Du
+Guesclin the government of Pontorson, of which
+territory he was personally lord, by right of his
+mother. It was here he often resided, and here he
+celebrated being made Constable of France by King
+Charles V., and fraternised with Olivier de Clisson,
+agreeing to afford each other mutual help—"contre
+tous ceux qui peuvent vivre et mourir." The granite
+church was founded by Duke Robert, father of the
+Conqueror.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Pontorson is the most convenient place for visiting
+Mont St. Michel. Our drive thither was by the
+banks of the river Couësnon, along a sandy road, bordered
+on each side by hedges of tamarisks, which
+leads to the "Grève," or sands, which have to be
+crossed to reach the Mount, a distance of rather
+more than a mile. We met numbers of bare-legged
+half-clad women and children, bringing in the produce
+of their fishing, shrimps and cockles tied up in
+nets, and peasants with carts carrying in sea sand for
+dressing the land. The appearance of Mont St.
+Michel is very imposing, a cone of granite encircled
+by the sea. Above rises the fortress, surmounted by
+the church, a height of 400 feet from the top to the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page026">[pg 026]</span><a name="Pg026" id="Pg026" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+water. Below, at the foot of the Mount, picturesquely
+situated on an insulated rock, is the little chapel of
+St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, the founder of St.
+Michel. The Mount has been the residence of many
+of our English princes. Matilda, queen of the Conqueror,
+visited St. Michel.  It was here her son
+Henry I., then only Count of the Cotentin, was
+blockaded by his brothers William and Robert, and
+obliged to surrender. Here Henry II. held his
+court, and, when Henry V. overran Normandy, St.
+Michel was the only fortress that held out against
+him, under its gallant defender Louis d'Estouteville
+of Bricquebec. Two cannons, now at the entrance
+of the castle, are said to have been taken from
+the English at the siege. Normandy was always the
+scene of the quarrels between the English Norman
+princes, of the disputes between the sons of the
+Conqueror, between Stephen of Blois and Henry of
+Anjou, and again of those between Henry II. and
+his sons, and of Richard and his brother John, to
+the latter of whom the Normans were attached.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Seven French kings have made pilgrimages to St.
+Michel; and here Louis XI. instituted the order
+of knighthood, called in honour of the archangel
+St. Michael, but afterwards styled the order of the
+Coquille, from the cockleshells that formed the collar
+of the knights, and the golden cockle-shells that bordered
+their mantles. The motto of the order was
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page027">[pg 027]</span><a name="Pg027" id="Pg027" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the old motto of the Mount, "Immensi tremor
+Oceani" (the trembling of the immeasurable ocean),
+being an allusion to the popular belief that when
+the English approached St. Michel, the guardian
+archangel of the Mount raised a tempest to drive
+the enemy's vessels upon the rocks. This belief may
+be traced back to the time when the island was
+occupied by the Druid priestesses, who were supposed
+to have the power of raising storms and stilling
+them by their magic arrows of gold.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We ascended by the flight of steps to the "Merveille,"
+as the convent building is called, and well it
+deserves its name, from its elegance, its boldness, and
+its position, with a wall of above one hundred feet
+high, and of immense length, rising from the rock
+and supported by fifteen buttresses, and divided into
+three stories. In every point of view it is one of the
+most remarkable edifices of the thirteenth century.
+The salle des chevaliers, where the chapters of the
+knights were held, is a fine hall, with three rows
+of columns, and above it are the beautiful Gothic
+cloisters. The "préau" or court is surrounded by a
+double row of pointed arches, interlacing each other,
+and filled in with flowered spandrils and cornices,
+carved with the greatest delicacy and endless variety.
+The church which crowns the building is supported
+by a circle of enormous columns in the crypt beneath,
+called the Souterrain des Gros Piliers: it has been
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page028">[pg 028]</span><a name="Pg028" id="Pg028" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+entirely restored, and the carvings are the work of
+the prisoners who were confined here. From one
+of the doors we went out to the platform or terrace
+called Beauregard, from the beauty of its prospect,
+or sometimes Sault Gautier, from a prisoner of that
+name, who three times threw himself off the platform
+to commit suicide. The view from hence is most
+extensive, the whole circuit of the bay extending to
+the west as far as Cancale. In 1203 St. Michel
+became a royal demesne, and the buildings were
+entirely reconstructed by the Abbot Jourdan, assisted
+by Philip Augustus; and the works were continued
+by his successors to 1260.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Beneath and adjacent to the Mount, is the little
+island of La Tombeleine or tombeau d'-Helène, so
+called from a young lady of that name, who unable
+to accompany her lover knight when he left for
+England with the Conqueror, as soon as the vessel
+which carried him away disappeared from her sight,
+laid down on the shore and died. Every year, on
+the anniversary of her death, the fishermen will tell
+you they see a dove seated upon the Tombeleine
+rock, and remain there till morning's dawn.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The guide pointed out to us the window of St.
+Michel, from which Barbès tried to escape by means
+of a cord made of his sheets cut into strips and tied
+together; but the line was too short, and he fell
+upon the rock and was taken up much hurt. The
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page029">[pg 029]</span><a name="Pg029" id="Pg029" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+provisions for the fortress are brought in up an
+inclined plane, and raised by means of a tread-wheel,
+formerly worked by the prisoners. We were conducted
+to the spot where stood, with bars only three
+inches apart, the iron cage in which so many celebrities
+were immured. Dubourg, the Dutch journalist,
+who wrote against Louis XIV., died within its
+bars, devoured, it is said, by the rats. In 1777, the
+Comte d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.) desired it
+should be destroyed, but his wishes were disregarded.
+His cousin, the Duc de Chartres (afterwards Louis
+Philippe), with his brother and sister, and Madame
+de Genlis, subsequently visited the Mount. All exclaimed
+against the iron cage, and when they heard
+that the Comte d'Artois had ordered its destruction,
+they sent for hatchets, and the Duc de Chartres
+gave the first blow towards its demolition; but the
+fine old fortress is no longer desecrated as a prison.
+The Emperor has restored it to its original position,
+and it is now placed under the control of the Bishop
+of Coutances, and is used as an asylum for orphans
+under the care of a few Sisters.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next morning we crossed the boundary between
+Normandy and Brittany, the river Couësnon, which
+has often changed its course, once, it is said, running
+beyond St. Michel—hence the popular saying—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Le Couësnon par sa folie</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A mis le Mont en Normandie.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div></div>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page030">[pg 030]</span><a name="Pg030" id="Pg030" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had a beautiful drive to Dol or Dol-de-Bretagne,
+as it is styled, to distinguish it from the fortress of the
+same name in the Jura, upon the taking of which
+Madame de Sevigné writes in her letters with so much
+enthusiasm. We were now fairly in Brittany, which
+though geographically part of France still remains
+very distinct, owing to the Celtic origin of its inhabitants.
+Brittany consists of five departments;
+but it is in Lower Brittany alone, comprised in the
+departments of Finistère, Morbihan, and the Côtes-du-Nord,
+that the true Celtic race, its language,
+names, features, costumes, and superstitions are to
+be found.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This is the true Brittany, the Bretagne Bretonnante
+of Froissart, who calls the eastern part of the
+province, La Bretagne Douce, because the French
+language is spoken there. Dol was the great
+bulwark of Brittany against Normandy; the wall
+and moat surrounding the town, with some of the
+towers, still remain. Many of the houses are built,
+as the French term it, "en colombage" that is,
+with the upper story projecting some fifteen feet
+over the ground-floor, forming a gallery or porch
+supported by oak posts or columns with sculptured
+capitals of the thirteenth century. The inn we occupied
+had one of these porches: Madame Barbot,
+our landlady, and her maid, were both dressed in
+Breton costume, with lace-trimmed embroidered
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page031">[pg 031]</span><a name="Pg031" id="Pg031" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+caps and aprons of fine muslin, clear-starched and
+ironed with a perfection which the most accomplished
+"blanchisseuse du fin" of Paris would find
+it difficult to surpass. The people here have the
+Breton physiognomy, sharp black eyes, short roundi
+faces and brown freckled complexions, a contrast to
+the blue eyes, long oval faces,
+and bright tints of their Norman
+neighbours.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image07.jpg" width="223" height="468" alt="" title="7. Pilaster and Cornice from the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">7. Pilaster and Cornice from the <br />Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, <br />Dol.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The principal building at
+Dol is the Cathedral, built
+of grey granite, in the style
+of many of our English
+churches. On the south is
+the "porte episcopale," a
+large projecting porch with
+mullioned sides, and, near it,
+a smaller porch with a central
+column semée of hearts, the
+"armes parlantes" of Bishop
+Cœuret who built it. The
+clustered columns of the nave,
+consist of a central pillar surrounded
+by four others running
+up to the roof, so slender and delicate that
+they are united to the centre by small bars of iron.
+Over the high altar is an enormous wooden crozier,
+carved and gilt, from which the Host is suspended.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page032">[pg 032]</span><a name="Pg032" id="Pg032" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+A beautiful Renaissance tomb on the north side of
+the cathedral was raised in 1507 to the memory of
+Bishop James,
+who died three
+years before.
+The sculpture is
+much mutilated,
+but the arabesques
+are
+most delicately
+and elegantly
+chiselled. It is
+supposed to be
+the work of Jean
+Just of Tours, sculptor of the magnificent tomb of
+Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, erected at St.
+Denis by order of Francis I.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image08.jpg" width="354" height="316" alt="" title="8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, <br />Cathedral, Dol.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The chapel of St. Samson, patron saint of the
+cathedral, has been restored. Mad people were
+brought here for cure, and placed in a recess which
+still remains; the opening was covered over by an
+iron grating. Dol was formerly the ecclesiastical
+metropolis of Brittany; the see was founded by
+Samson, one of those British monks, who, with a
+whole population of men and women, emigrated
+from England to escape the Saxon slavery. They
+crossed the Channel in barks made of skins sewn
+together, singing, as they went, the Lamentations of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page033">[pg 033]</span><a name="Pg033" id="Pg033" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the Psalmist. This emigration lasted more than a
+century (from 450 to 550), and poured a Christian
+population into a Celtic country where paganism
+was longest preserved. St. Samson and his six
+suffragans—all monks, missionaries, and bishops, like
+himself—were called the "Seven Saints of Brittany;"
+St. Samson was what was termed an "evêque portatif,"
+meaning a bishop without a diocese, until he
+founded that of Dol. Telio, also a British monk,
+with the assistance of St. Samson, planted near Dol
+an orchard three miles in length, and to him is
+attributed the first introduction of the apple-tree
+into Brittany. Wherever the monks went, they cultivated
+the soil; all had in their mouths the words of
+the Apostle, "If any would not work, neither should
+he eat." The people admired the industry of the
+new comers, and, from admiration they passed to
+imitation; the peasants joined the monks in tilling
+the ground, and even the brigands became agriculturists.
+"The Cross and the plough, labour and
+prayer," was the motto of these early missionaries.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Sûr que le Ciel maudit l'arbre stérile,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Le sage passe en opérant le bien:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Vivre et mourir à l'univers utile,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">C'est la devise et l'esprit du chrétien.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left">
+  <span class="tei tei-title" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Chants de Piété</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">, 
+  </span><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Malo de Garaby</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The monks of Dol were great bee-farmers, as we
+learn from an anecdote told by Count Montalembert
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page034">[pg 034]</span><a name="Pg034" id="Pg034" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+in his 'Moines de l'Occident.' One day when St. Samson
+of Dol and St. Germain, Bishop of Paris,
+were conversing on the respective merits of their
+monasteries, St. Samson said that his monks were
+such good and careful preservers of their bees that,
+besides the honey which they yielded in abundance,
+they furnished more wax than was used in the
+churches during the year, but that, their climate
+not being fit for the growth of vines, they had great
+scarcity of wine. Upon hearing this, St. Germain
+replied, "We, on the contrary, produce more wine
+than we can consume, but we have to buy wax; so,
+if you will furnish us with wax, we will give you a
+tenth of our wine." Samson accepted the offer, and
+the mutual arrangement was continued during the
+lives of the two saints.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The marshy country round Dol has been formerly
+inundated by the sea; it is now reclaimed and protected
+by a dyke twenty-two miles long, extending
+from Pontorson to Chateauneuf. The whole tract
+is full of buried wood, a submerged forest, which
+the people dig up, and use for furniture. It is black,
+like the Irish bog-oak. They call it "couëron."
+In the midst of this plain rises a mamelon or insulated
+granite rock, resembling in form Mont St.
+Michel, called the Mont Dol. On the top is the
+little chapel of Notre Dame de l'Espérance, upon
+which was formerly a telegraph, and near it is a
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page035">[pg 035]</span><a name="Pg035" id="Pg035" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+column surmounted by a colossal statue of Our
+Lady. Mont Dol was a consecrated place of the
+Druids. The guides showed us a spring which
+never dries, and also a rock upon which they point
+out the print of the foot of the demon, left by him
+when wrestling with St. Michael. We met the curé,
+who gave us a medal of the church, and told us the
+principal points in the view before us, extending
+over the whole Bay of Cancale.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page036">[pg 036]</span><a name="Pg036" id="Pg036" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image09.jpg" width="345" height="552" alt="" title="9. Menhir, near Dol." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">9. Menhir, near Dol.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our way back to Dol, we walked to a cornfield,
+in the midst of it stands a menhir<a id="noteref_2" name="noteref_2" href="#note_2"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">2</span></span></a> (they are so
+termed from the Breton <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">mœn</span></span>, stone, and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">hir</span></span>, long),
+called the "Pierre du champ dolant," a shaft of gray
+granite, about thirty feet high, and said to measure
+fifteen more underground. On the top is a cross.
+The first preachers of Christianity, unable to uproot
+the veneration for the menhirs, surmounted them
+with the cross, preserving the worship but changing
+the symbol. In the same manner, they did not
+attempt to destroy the veneration for sacred groves
+and fountains, but transferred to new saints the
+miracles of times past.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We drove through a pretty country to see the
+Château of Combourg, where Chateaubriand passed
+his early days. It is a fine square castle of the
+fifteenth century, with massive towers at each corner,
+surrounded by trees, and standing proudly over the
+village below. The drawbridge has been replaced by
+a modern "perron" or flight of stone steps, which
+leads to the entrance hall. The salle d'honneur
+looks over a lake. We were taken into his little
+melancholy room which Chateaubriand so well
+describes.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page037">[pg 037]</span><a name="Pg037" id="Pg037" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image10.jpg" width="544" height="338" alt="" title="10. Château of Combourg." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">10. Château of Combourg.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em">"La fenêtre de mon donjon s'ouvrait sur le cour intérieure;
+le jour, j'avais en perspective les créneaux de la courtine opposeé,
+où végétaient des scolopendres et croissait un prunier sauvage.
+Quelques martinets, qui, durant l'été, s'enfonçaient en criant
+dans les trous des murs, étaient mes seuls compagnons. La
+nuit je n'apercevais qu'un petit morceau du ciel et quelques
+étoiles. Lorsque la lune brillait et qu'elle s'abaissait à l'occident,
+j'en étais averti par ses rayons, qui venaient à mon lit au
+travers des carreaux losangés de la fenêtre. Des chouettes
+voletant d'un tour à l'autre, passant et repassant entre la
+lune et moi, dessinaient sur mes rideaux l'ombre mobile de
+leurs ailes."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The bed on which Chateaubriand died has been
+brought from Paris and placed in the room.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image11.jpg" width="348" height="554" alt="" title="11. Peasant Girl of Cancale." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next morning we left Dol for Cancale, of
+such world-wide celebrity for its oysters. We left
+the railway at La Gouesnière, five miles and a half
+from Cancale, to which we proceeded by the mail
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page038">[pg 038]</span><a name="Pg038" id="Pg038" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+cart. It requires to travel in Brittany to form any
+notion of the detestable vehicles, whether public or
+"voitures à volonté," in which travellers in this country
+are condemned to ride. Uncleaned, unpainted,
+creaking, jolting machines—as fully tenanted with
+every kind of insect annoyance, as if one were travelling
+in a hen-house. The horses are good, hardy,
+enduring little animals, which go their thirty to
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page039">[pg 039]</span><a name="Pg039" id="Pg039" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+fifty miles a day without any distress either to
+themselves or the traveller. The Breton drivers are
+gentle and kind, making more use of their voices
+than of their whips in urging on their horses. The
+town of Cancale is situated on the heights, a precipitous
+descent leading to the village below, called
+La Houle, which lines the edge of the shore, and
+is occupied mostly by fishermen. This is the port,
+and here are the pier and the lighthouse, and also
+a comfortable inn to which the people of St. Malo
+resort in large parties, an omnibus running thence
+daily. The panoramic view of the bay of Cancale is
+beautiful and most extensive, one vast crescent of
+sand some ten square leagues in extent, stretching
+from the picturesque rocks of Cancale to Granville,
+its most northern point, and including Mont Dol,
+Mont St. Michel, and Avranches.  The western
+side is lined with huts and windmills, but the water
+is so shallow that no boat can land. Having walked
+round the little hurdled-in oyster parks, numbering,
+we were told, about 600, and made ourselves very
+wet and dirty, though we borrowed sabots to enable
+us to wade through the mud, we returned to the
+inn, and next day reached St. Malo.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image12.jpg" width="542" height="577" alt="" title="12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Malo stands on a small granite island at the
+mouth of the Rance, connected, by a causeway
+called "Le Sillon," with the mainland. The space
+it occupies is so small, that castle, churches, streets,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page040">[pg 040]</span><a name="Pg040" id="Pg040" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and towers are all crowded together, and the whole
+is nearly surrounded by a sea wall, which makes the
+town appear as if rising straight out of the ocean.
+Towards the sea, the bay is encircled with groups of
+craggy islets, many surmounted by forts, bristling
+up as the tide recedes, in every direction. Conspicuous
+among these island rocks is that called the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page041">[pg 041]</span><a name="Pg041" id="Pg041" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Grand Bé, chosen by Chateaubriand for his last
+resting-place, as he wished to be buried near the
+place of his birth. Singularly enough the name of
+the island "Bé" signifies a tomb. On his request
+being granted, Chateaubriand wrote to the Mayor
+of St. Malo.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em">
+"Enfin, Monsieur, j'aurai un tombeau, et je vous le devrai,
+ainsi qu'à mes bienveillants compatriotes. Vous savez, Monsieur,
+que je ne veux que quelques pieds de sable, une pierre
+de rivage sans ornement et sans inscription, une simple croix
+de fer, et une petite grille pour empêcher les animaux de me
+deterrer. La croix dira que l'homme réposant à ses pieds était
+un Chrétien; cela suffit à ma mémoire."
+</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At low water, the island is accessible on foot.
+The tomb consists of a plain stone without inscription,
+surmounted by a granite cross, and is surrounded
+by an iron railing. It is placed on the
+edge of a rock, and is the resort of crowds of
+pilgrims.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><span style="font-size: 90%">
+"La vaste mer murmure autour de son cercueil."
+</span></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Hôtel de France is the house where Chateaubriand's
+family lived, and the room he occupied is
+filled with various memorials of him. The Chateaubriand
+arms hang upon the wall. They were given
+by St. Louis to an ancestor who was wounded and
+taken prisoner at the battle of Massoura. The King
+changed the peacock's plumes, previously borne by
+the family, to fleurs de lys on a field gules, with the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page042">[pg 042]</span><a name="Pg042" id="Pg042" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+proud motto "Mon sang teint les bannières de
+France." The tides here rise to between forty and
+fifty feet above low-water mark, so that the harbour
+is dry at low water, and is crossed on foot to go to
+St. Servan, the suburb on the opposite side.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We walked round the ramparts and were shown
+the little gate down which were sent every night the
+watch dogs of St. Malo, "chiens Anglais qui
+s'appelent dogues." Shut up during the day, they
+were let out at ten at night, and recalled in the
+morning to the sound of a copper trumpet, by their
+keeper, styled the "chiennetier." Enactments were
+made for their maintenance, called the "droit de
+chiennage." When let loose at night, a warning
+bell was rung to apprise the inhabitants, as they
+tore the legs of every one they met. Hence it used
+to be said "Il a été à St. Malo, les chiens lui ont
+rongé les mollets." In 1770, a naval officer trying to
+force a passage was attacked by a troop of these
+dogs prowling between St. Malo and St. Servan;
+his sword was useless as defence, and, exhausted, in
+despair he threw himself into the sea, but here he
+was followed by the dogs and torn to pieces. A few
+days after they were all destroyed by the municipality,
+and the custom of keeping them has been
+since discontinued. In an old map of St. Malo, or
+"Saint Malo de l'isle," as it was then styled, preserved
+in the Imperial Library at Paris, is laid down,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page043">[pg 043]</span><a name="Pg043" id="Pg043" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+near the "Sillon" a little sentry-box marked, "Corps-de-garde
+de nuit pour les chiens," and again, near
+the "Tour de la grande Porte," is the "Pont aux
+chiens." The date of the map is 1662. The arms
+of St. Malo till the seventeenth century were, on a
+field argent, a mastiff gules.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The castle dates principally from the Queen-Duchess
+Anne, and one of its massive towers, the
+"Qui qu'en grogne" is a memorial of her dauntless
+spirit. Twice crowned Queen of France, she was
+the only one of her line worthy of the ducal crown.
+The Bishop of St. Malo was temporal lord of the
+town, and maintained he held it direct from the
+Pope, as a fief of the Church, because it was built
+upon land where a convent formerly stood; and
+consequently the Duke of Brittany had no authority
+over it, either spiritual or temporal. Duke John V.
+began to build a castle, but the Bishop opposed himself
+to its construction, and the contest lasted on
+until the time of the Queen-Duchess Anne, who, in
+defiance of the Bishop, and to shew that she was and
+always would be sovereign of St. Malo, finished the
+fortress and caused the lofty inscription to be placed
+in raised letters upon the great tower: "Qui qu'en
+grogne, ainsi sera, c'est mon plaisir;"—so runs the
+legend, but unfortunately a similar story is told of
+Louis II., Duke of Bourbon.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the opposite side of the mouth of the Rance
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page044">[pg 044]</span><a name="Pg044" id="Pg044" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+is Dinard, lately become a favourite watering-place;
+it has good sands, and houses and villas are rapidly
+rising up in every direction, and covering its granite
+hills.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The prettiest route to Dinan is by the little
+steamer which ascends the Rance, a lovely voyage,
+occupying about two hours. The banks one mixture
+of rocks, valleys, and verdure; the river now
+expanding into the width of a lake, now narrowing
+between its forest-clothed sides. After passing
+through a lock, and, winding our way through a
+narrow pass of rocky crags, we reached the bridge
+of Dinan; above us, the gigantic granite viaduct
+stretched across the valley, the town, with its feudal
+walls and castle, perched on its rocky heights over
+the river.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the Grande Place is a miserable statue of Du
+Guesclin, who looks more like a wandering minstrel
+than the hero of Brittany and Constable of
+France. His life forms quite an historic romance.
+His future greatness was foretold by a prophetess;
+his wife, the Lady Tiphaine, was herself a fairy; his
+battles resemble those of the giants of old. Du
+Guesclin was born at Broons, and was the eldest of
+ten children and of great trouble to his parents.
+One day his mother dreamt she was in possession of
+a casket, containing portraits of herself and her lord,
+and on one side were set nine precious stones of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page045">[pg 045]</span><a name="Pg045" id="Pg045" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+lustrous beauty encircling one rough unpolished
+pebble. In her dream she carried the casket to a
+lapidary, and asked him to take out the rough stone
+as unworthy of such goodly company; but he advised
+her to allow it to remain, and subsequently it
+shone forth more brilliantly than the precious gems
+with which it was surrounded. The after superiority
+of Bertrand over the other nine children
+explained the dream.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was in this "Place," where his statue now
+stands, the celebrated duel took place between Du
+Guesclin and an English knight, called by the
+Breton chroniclers Thomas of Cantorbéry. Dinan
+was at that time closely besieged by the Duke of
+Lancaster (1359), with the young Count de Montfort,
+and defended by Du Guesclin. A truce of
+forty days had been agreed upon, before the expiration
+of which Oliver, brother of Du Guesclin,
+rode out unarmed beyond the city walls, and was
+made prisoner by Thomas of Cantorbéry, who demanded
+a ransom of 1000 florins. On this news
+reaching Du Guesclin, he immediately repaired to
+the English camp, where he found the Duke of
+Lancaster playing chess with Sir John Chandos.
+They received him most cordially, and agreed that
+the dispute should be settled by a combat within
+the walls, the Duke of Lancaster consenting to preside.
+Victory declared in favour of Du Guesclin,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page046">[pg 046]</span><a name="Pg046" id="Pg046" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+who would have cut off the head of his adversary,
+had not the Duke of Lancaster interceded for his
+life. Cantorbéry was dragged upon a hurdle out
+of the lists, and condemned to pay 1000 florins to
+Oliver; his horse and armour were given to Bertrand,
+and the felon knight expelled the English
+army.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We drove to see the Castle of Montafilant, one
+of the apanages of the Rohan family, which passed
+with many others to the unfortunate Gilles de
+Bretagne, by his marriage with the heiress Françoise
+de Dinan. The castle is approached by a steep
+winding path, leading to the plateau upon which it
+stands. Before the use of firearms, its position rendered
+it impregnable. Of its seven towers, two only
+remain.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The story of Gilles de Bretagne forms the subject
+of a romance by the Vicomte Walsh. Though his
+conduct was not free from blame, his long captivity
+and tragic end have rendered this unfortunate prince
+an object of pity to posterity. Third son of Duke
+John V., he was reared with Henry VI. of England,
+and personally attached to the English; but he
+never was in league with England against his own
+country, and his uncle the Constable Richemont
+regarded him as the honour and hope of his house.
+His wife Françoise was the most beautiful and accomplished
+woman of her time, the "perle de noblesse,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page047">[pg 047]</span><a name="Pg047" id="Pg047" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+de gentilesse, et de savoir;" and moreover possessed of
+the rich inheritance of her uncle Bertrand de Dinan,
+of the Montafilant branch. She had been betrothed
+from her infancy to the Sire de Gavre, son of Guy,
+Comte de Laval; but her father died when she was
+only eight years old, and Gilles de Bretagne carried
+her off by force. Dissatisfied with his paternal inheritance,
+the lordship of Champtocé, he retired to
+Guildo, one of the châteaux of Françoise's dower,
+where he passed his time in company with his
+English archers. His withdrawal from court was
+represented to Duke Francis as the beginning of
+a revolt, by Arthur de Montauban, his bitterest
+enemy and a great favourite of the Duke. Gilles
+neglected his young wife, and she is reported, in an
+unguarded moment, to have said to Montauban,
+she would marry him "if her husband were to die."
+Duke Francis was determined to get rid of his
+brother, and Charles VII. was persuaded to assist
+him in his vile design. The King arrested Gilles
+on the charge of high treason, as being in correspondence
+with the English; and, in proof of the
+charge, his enemies produced forged letters from
+the King of England compromising the loyalty of
+Gilles. Charles gave him over to his brother for
+punishment. In vain were Gilles's supplications to
+the Duke, or the entreaties of the Constable, who
+went to Dinan and knelt to Francis to beg for the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page048">[pg 048]</span><a name="Pg048" id="Pg048" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+pardon of his brother. Equally fruitless his being
+acquitted at Rédon, from there being no proof of
+his guilt. The unfortunate Gilles was dragged from
+prison to prison, and consigned to keepers destitute
+of every feeling of humanity.  Montauban, an
+Italian by descent (his mother was a Visconti), sent
+for poison from Lombardy, and administered in his
+soup a strong dose, which the good constitution of
+Gilles enabled him to resist. Starvation was then
+tried, and the wretched Gilles would stand at his
+prison window, calling on the passers by to give
+him bread: "Du pain, du pain pour l'amour de
+Dieu," but no one ventured to relieve him. At
+last, a poor woman dared to give him food, and
+placed a loaf on the edge of his grated window,
+continuing for six months to share with him in
+secret her scanty meal of black bread. Seeing that
+he could hold out no longer and that his death was
+determined upon, Gilles begged the woman would
+fetch him a minister of religion, that he might confess
+before he died. By stealth she brought him a
+Cordelier monk, who confessed him across the bars
+of his prison, and Gilles adjured him to seek his
+brother and acquaint him with his pitiable condition.
+The monk started on his errand, but in the
+mean time the gaolers of Gilles determined on
+putting an end to his life. They twisted a cloth
+round his neck, and smothered him between two
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page049">[pg 049]</span><a name="Pg049" id="Pg049" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+mattresses while he slept. The monks of Bosquen
+carried his body to their abbey for interment, and
+the wooden effigy that was placed over his grave is
+still preserved in the Museum at St. Brieuc. The
+monk who had received Gilles's confession went in
+quest of Duke Francis, who, on hearing of his
+brother's death when at Avranches, had left for
+Saint Michel. The monk met him on the Grève,
+and cited him in the name of his brother "de la
+part du Messire Gilles" to appear within fifty days
+at the tribunal of Heaven to answer for his murder.
+The menace was realised. Duke Francis died within
+the appointed time, struck with remorse, and terrified
+at the summons of the Cordelier. The monk was
+never seen again. On the death of Gilles, the Duke
+of Brittany himself wished to marry Françoise, but
+she would not listen to his proposals; and at last
+was obliged, in order to recover her liberty, to marry
+the aged Comte de Laval, father of her betrothed,
+with whom she lived peacefully thirty years, and had
+three sons. Duke Francis II. appointed her to the
+charge of rearing his daughter Anne.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Arthur Montauban turned monk to avoid the
+vengeance of Duke Peter, brother of Gilles, and
+eventually became Archbishop of Bordeaux. The
+Pope gave him the Abbey of Rédon, but popular
+indignation prevented him from accepting the appointment.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page050">[pg 050]</span><a name="Pg050" id="Pg050" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our return from Montafilant we stopped to
+visit the Lunatic Asylum (Asile des aliénés), called
+Les Bas Foins, kept by the brothers of Saint-Jean-de-Dieu.
+There are six hundred inmates under the
+charge of about sixty brethren. The buildings,
+with the chapel, are very handsome and most complete
+in all the arrangements. Within the enclosure
+is a large piece of land. The lunatics are
+employed in agricultural, garden, and house occupations;
+they look very contented and happy.
+Visitors are not allowed to speak to them. We
+omitted seeing the Croix du Saint Esprit, a curiously
+sculptured Gothic granite cross of the fourteenth
+century, not far from the asylum.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The castle of Dinan is now a prison. It was
+occupied by the Queen-Duchess Anne, when on
+her way to a pilgrimage to Notre Dame-du-Folgoët,
+in fulfilment of a vow made during the illness of
+Louis XII. In the chapel is shewn a sculptured
+seat, still called the arm-chair of the Duchess Anne.
+Within these walls were crammed, in the last century,
+about 2000 English prisoners of war, many of
+whom fell victims to a contagious fever. From the
+platform of the keep we had a magnificent view of
+the surrounding country, extending to Mont Dol
+and the sea.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The church of St. Sauveur has a richly sculptured
+Romanesque portal. It contains the heart of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page051">[pg 051]</span><a name="Pg051" id="Pg051" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Du Guesclin, transferred from the church of the
+Dominicans, where he desired it to be interred
+by the side of his wife Tiphaine. His body was
+buried at St. Denis, in a tomb King Charles V.
+caused to be made in his lifetime, and he left
+orders that on his death his Constable should
+repose at his feet. On the dark-coloured monumental
+stone now incrusted on the wall, are roughly
+sculptured his arms (an eagle displayed charged
+with a cotice<a id="noteref_3" name="noteref_3" href="#note_3"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">3</span></span></a>), with a commemorative inscription
+in gold letters:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Cy: gist: le cueur: de</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Missire: bertram: du gueaquī</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">en: son vivāt: conētiable de</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">france: qui: trepassa: le: xiii^e</span></div>
+
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">jour: de: jullet: l'an: mil iii^e</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">IIII^xx dont: son: corps: repos</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">avecques: ceulx: des: Roys</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">a sainct: denis en France.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Above hangs a painting representing the Governor
+of Châteauneuf Randon, laying the keys of the
+town upon the dead body of the Constable.<a id="noteref_4" name="noteref_4" href="#note_4"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">4</span></span></a></p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page052">[pg 052]</span><a name="Pg052" id="Pg052" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image13.jpg" width="556" height="313" alt="" title="13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Many of the streets of Dinan preserve the character
+of the Middle Ages, the houses upon columns
+forming a kind of porch or covered way; and most
+curious of all is the dirty, steep, narrow, winding
+street, called the Rue de Jerzual, a ravine extending
+from the top of the town, in one pitch, to the river's
+edge. The Museum at the Mairie has an interesting
+collection of tumulary slabs—recumbent figures
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page053">[pg 053]</span><a name="Pg053" id="Pg053" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+taken from different churches and abbeys, mostly
+from the Beaumanoir chapel of the Abbey of
+Lehon. There is one of Jean de Beaumanoir, son
+of the hero of the "Combat des Trente," treacherously
+slain by his steward. He is represented in
+full armour, but with his head bare, to indicate the
+manner of his death. The effigy of his wife is also
+in complete armour, but on the belt that encircles her
+waist, like those worn by the knights, is sculptured
+a wreath of roses. She was a Du Guesclin by birth,
+and her feet repose upon an eagle, the bearing of
+her house. The statue of Roland, Vicomte de
+Dinan, one of the nine great Barons of Brittany
+in the twelfth century, is of gigantic proportions;
+the warrior is clad from head to foot in chain mail,
+but he holds one of his gauntlets in his hand. In
+the Museum is also a clock given to the city of
+Dinan by the Duchess Anne, inscribed with the
+name of its maker and the date of its construction:
+"1498, à Nantes par M. Hainzer de cette ville."
+The ancient bronze standard measures (étalons) of
+Dinan are decorated with the arms of the City, and
+Gothic inscriptions in relief, "Cart (quart) à gros
+blé pour Dinan"—"Cart à fourmant (froment) pour
+Dinan"—and "Bouesceau à scel (boisseau à sel)
+pour Dinan." Portraits of Du Guesclin and other
+Breton worthies are in one of the rooms (Salle de
+l'Odéon). That of the Constable answers to the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page054">[pg 054]</span><a name="Pg054" id="Pg054" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+description given of his appearance. He was low
+in stature, with large Breton head, broad shoulders,
+long arms, and large hands. His eyes were green,
+and his complexion swarthy: "la peau noire comme
+un sanglier."</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image14.jpg" width="551" height="350" alt="" title="14. Château of La Bellière." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">14. Château of La Bellière.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The drives round Dinan are endless in variety,<a id="noteref_5" name="noteref_5" href="#note_5"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">5</span></span></a>
+and all beautiful. We took a carriage to see the
+Château of la Bellière, about five miles and a half
+from Dinan, formerly the residence of Du Guesclin's
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page055">[pg 055]</span><a name="Pg055" id="Pg055" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+wife, the celebrated Lady Tiphaine; her name
+answers probably to our English Tiffany:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">William de Coningsby—</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Came out of Brittany</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">With his wife Tiffany</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And her maid Manifas</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And his doggs Hardigras.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image15.jpg" width="120" height="385" alt="" title="15. Chimney. Château of La Bellière." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">15. Chimney. Château <br />of La Bellière.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Lady Tiphaine was heiress and daughter of the
+Vicomte de Bellière; so deeply versed was she in
+astrology, she was called Tiphaine la Fée. During
+her husband's absence in Spain, she resided at Mont
+Saint Michel, having chosen this insulated spot for
+the facilities it afforded her of studying the stars.
+She gave Du Guesclin a calendar on vellum, containing
+verses at the beginning of each month,
+pointing out the lucky and unlucky days; how
+many she marked down as such, we know not.
+Tycho Brahe had thirty-two fatal days in his calendar.
+Had Du Guesclin consulted this precious volume,
+which is now preserved in the Library at Avranches,
+he would never have risked his fortune by fighting
+the battle of Auray on the Feast of St. Michel, one
+of the fatal days against which she specially warns
+him in her book. We wished to have seen the
+room where she died, and where many memorials
+of her are preserved; but the proprietor was at his
+déjeuner, and would not grant us admittance, so
+we were forced to be content with seeing the exterior
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page056">[pg 056]</span><a name="Pg056" id="Pg056" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of the house, a château of the end of the fourteenth
+century. It stands on the edge of a large sheet of
+water, in the midst of trees on the roadside
+between Dinan and St. Malo. Its
+principal characteristics are its tall octagonal
+chimney-shafts, composed of
+granite, brick, and slate.  They are
+surmounted by pieces of slate placed
+edgeways and forming a kind of capital
+or coronet to the granite shaft. Some
+of the chimneys have two circles of
+these coronets, and others are enriched
+with little rows of arches, of which the
+sombre slate background throws out
+the delicate ornamentation. Recrossing
+the magnificent viaduct, we proceeded
+to visit the Benedictine Priory of Lehon,
+called in the country "Chapelle des Beaumanoirs"
+from the mortuary chapel of that family attached
+to the abbey:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Beaumanoir! à ce nom de glorieux prodiges</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Des siècles écoulés réveillent les prestiges:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">La pierre des tombeaux a paru se mouvoir</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et des trente Bretons les clameurs belliqueuses</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Semblent répondre, sous ces voûtes fameuses,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A ce grand nom de Beaumanoir.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">
+—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Aubry</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The west front, with its round-arched portal surmounted
+by a large Gothic window, is very pretty.
+The chapel of the Beaumanoirs was ravaged at
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page057">[pg 057]</span><a name="Pg057" id="Pg057" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the Revolution, the lead of the coffins sold, and
+the bones scattered. The statues have since been
+removed to the Museum at Dinan, and the crypt
+beneath, where they were buried, is inaccessible.
+At the Revolution, when the monks were expelled,
+the priory was sold and used for a spinning factory;
+and the weight of the machines crushed the floors,
+so as to shut up the entrance to the vaults. In the
+parish church adjacent, is to be noticed an ancient
+baptismal font, of cylindrical form, sculptured
+within and without. We returned home by the
+Château du Chêne-Ferron, approached by an avenue
+of firs, and had a lovely drive along the banks of
+the Rance.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our last excursion in Dinan was to the Château
+of La Garaye, rendered famous by the virtues and
+boundless charity of its last proprietors, Count
+Claude Toussaint Marot de la Garaye and his wife,
+whose interesting story is told in the charming poem
+of Mrs. Norton:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Listen to the tale I tell,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Grave the story is—not sad,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And the peasant plodding by</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Greets the place with kindly eye,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">For the inmates that it had.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left">
+ <span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">The Lady of La Garaye.</span></span>
+</span></div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Count Claude de la Garaye and his wife were young,
+beautiful, and endowed with friends, riches, and all
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page058">[pg 058]</span><a name="Pg058" id="Pg058" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+that could make life bright and happy. They entertained
+with hospitality, and enjoyed the pleasures
+and amusements of the world; when one day the
+Countess was thrown from her horse, the expectations
+of an heir vanished, and she was left a cripple
+for life. Both were inconsolable for their
+disappointment. One day a monk came to visit them,
+and tried to comfort them, seeking by his converse
+to turn their thoughts from earthly affections to
+heavenly consolation—</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">"Ah! my father," said the lady, "how happy are
+you, to love nothing on earth!"</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">"You are mistaken," answered the monk; "I love
+all those who are in sorrow or suffering, and I submit
+myself to the will of the Almighty, and bend myself
+with resignation to every blow He strikes."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">He proceeded to show them there was still great
+happiness in store for them, in ministering to the
+comforts of others. Following his counsel, they
+went to Paris; for three years the Count studied
+medicine and surgery, and his wife became a
+skilful oculist. On their return to La Garaye, they
+gave up all the amusements of society, and devoted
+themselves to relieving the sufferings of their
+fellow creatures. Their house was converted into
+an hospital for the sick and the wounded, under
+the ministering care of the Count and his benevolent
+wife:—</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page059">[pg 059]</span><a name="Pg059" id="Pg059" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Her home is made their home; her wealth their dole;</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Her busy courtyard hears no more the roll</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Of gilded vehicles, or pawing steeds,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">But feeble steps of those whose bitter needs</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Are their sole passport. Through that gateway pass</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">All varying forms of sickness and distress,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And many a poor worn face that hath not smiled</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">For years,—and many a feeble crippled child,—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Blesses the tall, white portal where they stand,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And the dear Lady of the liberal hand.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left">
+ <span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">The Lady of La Garaye.</span></span>
+</span></div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nor was their philanthropy confined to their own
+province. In 1720, they offered themselves to M.
+de Belzunce—"Marseilles' good bishop"—to assist
+him during the visitation of the Plague. The fame
+of their virtues reached even the French Court, and
+Louis XV. sent Count de la Garaye the order of St.
+Lazarus with a donation of 50,000 livres and a contract
+on the post of 25,000 more.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">They both died at an advanced age, within two
+years of each other, and were buried among their
+poor at Taden, but their marble mausoleum in the
+church was destroyed in the French Revolution.
+Count de la Garaye<a id="noteref_6" name="noteref_6" href="#note_6"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">6</span></span></a> left a large sum to be distributed
+among the prisoners, principally English, at Rennes
+and Dinan, who were suffering pent up in these
+crowded gaols. The Comte had attended the
+English prisoners at Dinan during a contagious
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page060">[pg 060]</span><a name="Pg060" id="Pg060" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+fever, called the "peste blanche," and, in acknowledgment
+of his humanity, Queen Caroline sent him
+two dogs with silver collars round their necks, and an
+English nobleman made him a present of six more.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image16.jpg" width="534" height="407" alt="" title="16. Château of La Garaye." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">16. Château of La Garaye.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ruined château is approached by an ivy-covered
+gateway, through an avenue of beeches:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Le lierre flottant comme un manteau de deuil,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Couvre à demi la porte et rampe sur le seuil.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left">
+ <span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Lamartine</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">,
+ </span><span class="tei tei-title" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Harmonies Poëtiques</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.
+</span></span></div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">or, as Mrs. Norton renders it:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">And like a mourner's mantle, with sad grace,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Waves the dark ivy—hiding half the door</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And threshold, where the weary traveller's foot</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Shall never find a courteous welcome more.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page061">[pg 061]</span><a name="Pg061" id="Pg061" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is fast falling to pieces. The principal part
+remaining is an octagonal turret of three stories,
+with elegant Renaissance decoration round the windows.
+One more quotation from Mrs. Norton, and
+we quit these hallowed ruins:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">We know the healthy stir of human life</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Must be for ever gone!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The walls where hung the warrior's shining casque</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Are green with moss and mould;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The blindworm coils where Queens have slept, nor asks</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">For shelter from the cold.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The swallow,—he is master all the day,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And the great owl is ruler through the night;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The little bat wheels on his circling way,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">With restless flittering flight;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And that small bat, and the creeping things,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">At will they come and go,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And the soft white owl with velvet wings,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And a shout of human woe!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The brambles let no footsteps pass</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">By that rent in the broken stair,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">When the pale tufts of the windle-strae grass</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Hang like locks of dry dead hair;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">But there the keen sound ever sweeps and moans,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Working a passage through the mouldering stones.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left">
+ <span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">The Lady of La Garaye.</span></span>
+</span></div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Dinan, instead of taking the customary
+road to the railway station of Caulnes, we hired
+a carriage, in order to visit the fortress castle of
+La Hunaudaye, midway between Dinan and Lamballe.
+The road lay by Jugon, a town prettily
+situated in the cleft of two hills. On one once
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page062">[pg 062]</span><a name="Pg062" id="Pg062" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+stood an important castle, which gave rise to the
+saying:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Qui a Bretagne sans Jugon,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A chape sans chaperon.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Jugon is on the edge of two ponds. One of
+them, the largest in Brittany, hangs suspended over
+the town, as if threatening it with inundation. They
+told us it was swarming with fish of every description,
+and with pike of fabulous dimensions. Turning
+off the road to the right, we entered the forest of
+La Hunaudaye, and walked in a pouring rain to the
+château, situated a short distance from the road. It
+is of vast extent, has five round towers with ramparts
+of cut stone, and is surrounded by walls with
+machicolated parapets. It is a splendid ruin, but
+the incessant rain prevented us from spending much
+time in its examination. It was built in the thirteenth
+century by Olivier de la Tournemine, and
+was one of the strongest fortresses in Brittany.
+Situated in the midst of a vast forest, its lord and
+his retainers were the terror of the surrounding
+country. No traveller passed untaxed; all were
+compelled to pay toll. In 1504, the Bishop of
+St. Brieuc complains to the Parliament at Rennes
+that, regardless of the safeguard of the Duke, the
+foresters of the Lord of La Hunaudaye had carried
+off his horses, trunks, and baggage, and, a year
+later, they had the audacity to stop the Queen-Duchess
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page063">[pg 063]</span><a name="Pg063" id="Pg063" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Anne on her way to a pilgrimage to the
+Folgoët. The Queen was conducted to the presence
+of the Lord of La Hunaudaye, who maintained
+to her that he had only exercised his right of
+exacting a ransom from all who passed through the
+forest without his permission, but that he waived his
+privilege in favour of his Sovereign. Be that as it
+may, he received her Majesty most royally, as the
+old chaplain, Oliver de la Roche recounts, and gave
+a splendid banquet, which he fully describes. The
+table, he says, was four times covered with thirty-six
+dishes of viands, and lastly, was brought in, "en
+grande vénération," by eight squires, a whole calf,
+standing on its legs, well seasoned, with an orange
+in its mouth; and, when it appeared, the trumpets
+sounded so loud that it seemed as if the walls shook.
+On seeing the "dainty dish" that was "set before
+the Queen," all wished to have a share; and the
+chaplain relates, with great satisfaction, how he was
+served himself twice by the Lord of La Hunaudaye.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The dark deeds of the lords of La Hunaudaye
+have given rise to many a legend. The following is
+a translation of one of the most popular:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-title" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Legend of La Hunaudaye.</span></span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 3.60em"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">(Translation.)</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">When the rock eagle wakes,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">And the towers of Hunaudaye</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Gleam like three phantom forms</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">In the morning's sunlight ray;</span></div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page064">[pg 064]</span><a name="Pg064" id="Pg064" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">When night her darksome wing</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Folds round this desert waste,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Shun all this cursed ground—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Traveller flee thou in haste.</span></div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">There once—Great Heaven shield</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Us all! and no ill arise—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">There once—Hush! leave me not;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Hear you, from the ground, low sighs?—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">There once—wrapped in the gloom</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Of a dark and rainy night,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A man of haughty mien</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Knocked at the door of might.</span></div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">'Open!' cried he,—it turns</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">On groaning hinge. The rain</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Pours, but the frightened guards</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mark neither spot nor stain</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">On his purple cloak—nor his plumes</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Droop wet, yet the torrents fall</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Wildly and fast to night,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Beating the castle wall.</span></div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">The baron, stern and sad,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Was in his tower alone,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Pacing, with mailed heel,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Upon the echoing stone:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Cried he—'What stranger seeks,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">This hour, my castle drear?</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Ho! Oliver, Ho! Ralph,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">See who intrudeth here.'</span></div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">'Heaven shield thee, baron brave!</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A strange knight in the hall</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Craves audience.' 'Lead him here:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Stay thou and Ralph in call,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">At need.' Silent and slow</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The purple-mantled knight,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Advancing, paused—his looks</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Gleaming unearthly bright.</span></div>
+</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page065">[pg 065]</span><a name="Pg065" id="Pg065" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">'Who art thou coming thus,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Loud clamouring at my gate,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Thou truly puissant knight,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">With not one squire for state?</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Knowst thou at word of mine—'</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The stranger knight smiled stern,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Replied in awful voice,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">'Would'st thou my name? now learn:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Here is my train—behold!'</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">He cried. There hideous stood</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">One spectre, then two more—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A sight to chill the blood—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Unveiled their features pale,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">All three in cere-cloth dressed,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Opening all wide to point</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Where blood flowed from the breast.</span></div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">'Baron, these are my guard,'</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Said the unknown—'Here, lo!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Thy father's aged form,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">By poignard stroke laid low;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Here thy wife, cruelly slain</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">In the year thy brother fell;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">They stand, pale, bleeding, stiff,—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Their murderer, can'st thou tell?'</span></div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">The phantoms three enlaced</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The trembling baron round;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">He vainly shrieked,—the walls</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">With demon laughs resound;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The echoing thunders rolled</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Along the valley deep;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Lightnings, when pale dawn broke,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Blasted the castle keep.</span></div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-top: 0.90em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">It stands a blackened pile;</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">The ruined gate is there.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">But the sky lowers dark,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Oh! traveller flee, beware;</span></div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page066">[pg 066]</span><a name="Pg066" id="Pg066" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">At this hour the shades of night</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Brood o'er the solemn gloom.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Traveller, haste, oh! haste;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Leave this abode of doom.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was in the forest of La Hunaudaye that the
+Chouans of the Côtes du Nord were secretly exercised
+and drilled by their chief, La Rouërie, under
+the name of Gosselin, who died of horror on hearing
+of the execution of thirteen of his confederates
+betrayed by the physician Chaftal. Gosselin was
+succeeded by the "Cid" of the Chouan chiefs, Boishardy,
+called the "Sorcier," who, after his interview
+with General Humbert, was betrayed and shot by
+the "Bleus." For twelve years was Brittany cut off
+from France by this Chouan war, an insurrection
+even more formidable than that of La Vendée. The
+peninsular position of Brittany, its vast extent of
+coasts, its forests, its mountains, its people, speaking
+a strange language, entirely under the subjection of
+the priests, rendered it peculiarly adapted to carry
+on a war against the republicans; a war, the whole
+object of which was to upset all order, by preventing
+the citizens from accepting office under the republic,
+by punishing those who acquired national property,
+by stopping couriers and all public conveyances,
+destroying bridges, breaking up roads, assassinating
+public officers, and executing horrible punishments
+on those who sent provisions into the towns.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page067">[pg 067]</span><a name="Pg067" id="Pg067" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The castle of La Hunaudaye was destroyed by
+order of the Commune of Lamballe, in 1793, that it
+might not serve as a retreat for the Chouans.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We arrived very wet at Lamballe, a town most
+picturesquely situated on the declivity of a granite
+cliff, surmounted by a handsome church, rising from
+the very edge of the rocks. It formed part of the
+territory of the Duke of Penthièvre, whose heiress,
+Jeanne la Boiteuse, married Charles of Blois, the
+competitor with John de Montfort<a id="noteref_7" name="noteref_7" href="#note_7"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">7</span></span></a> for the dukedom
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page068">[pg 068]</span><a name="Pg068" id="Pg068" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of Brittany. More tenacious of her rights than her
+husband, Jeanne would never listen to any compromise.
+After the treaty of Bretigny, the kings of
+England and France proposed a division of the
+duchy between the two rivals; but, intimidated by
+his wife, Charles dared not consent; and again,
+before the battle of Auray, when a division was
+agreed upon, subject to the acceptance of the Countess,
+Jeanne exclaimed, "My husband makes too
+cheap a bargain of what is not his own." And she
+wrote to Charles, "Do what you please. I am a
+woman, and cannot do more; but I had rather lose
+my life, or two if I had them, before I would consent
+to so reproachable an act, to the shame of my
+family" (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">des miens</span></span>). Later she said to him, "Preserve
+me your heart, but preserve me also my duchy,
+and, happen what may, act so that the sovereignty
+remains to me entire." Her pride and obstinacy
+cost her husband his life. The name of Lamballe
+is associated with the memory of the unfortunate
+Princesse de Savoie de Carignan, the sad victim of
+revolutionary fury. On the death of her husband,
+the Prince de Lamballe, the vast estates of the
+Penthièvre family passed to his sister, the wife of
+Philippe Egalité, and from her descended to Louis
+Philippe, King of the French.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image17.jpg" width="520" height="327" alt="" title="17. Section of Lanleff Church." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">17. Section of Lanleff Church.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day we made an excursion to the famed
+Temple of Lanleff, in Breton, the "land of tears,"
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page069">[pg 069]</span><a name="Pg069" id="Pg069" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+situated in a retired valley about six miles from the
+sea. According to the tradition of the country, it
+was built by "Les moines rouges," as they style the
+Templar Knights. The road was incessantly up
+and down hill, as we afterwards found they are
+throughout Brittany; a "pays accidenté" it may
+be truly called. The chapel of Lanleff is composed
+of two concentric circular enclosures separated by
+twelve round arches, with cushion-shaped capitals,
+having heads, human and animal, rudely sculptured
+upon them at the four angles. Its whole diameter
+is about twenty-two feet. It was probably built
+by some Templar Knight in the beginning of the
+twelfth century on his return from the Holy Land.
+The number of arches may allude to that of the
+twelve Apostles.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page070">[pg 070]</span><a name="Pg070" id="Pg070" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image18.jpg" width="228" height="279" alt="" title="18. Plan of Lanleff Church." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">18. Plan of Lanleff Church.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The parish church was built into the east side of
+the temple, the only part which has preserved its
+roof, and which served as a
+vestibule to the more modern
+building. A gigantic yew
+formerly grew in the central
+enclosure, and overshadowed
+it with its spreading branches;
+but the parish church has
+been taken down and rebuilt
+in another part of the village,
+and the yew-tree has disappeared.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Close to the temple is a spring enclosed by flagstones.
+When moistened, they appear covered with
+blood-stained spots. According to the tradition, in
+olden times an unnatural father sold his child to the
+Evil One. The gold received for the bargain was
+counted out upon the side of the spring, and the
+accursed money left its print upon the stones. A
+bare-legged peasant who stood by with her pitcher,
+threw some water over the stones, and immediately
+there appeared round red spots of different sizes—indelible
+marks of the diabolical bargain. We went
+into a cottage close by, and had some boiled eggs
+and cider. The inmates were at their meal—a bowl
+of milk, into which they broke their buckwheat
+"galette." We were much struck with the jealous
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page071">[pg 071]</span><a name="Pg071" id="Pg071" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+pertinacity of the Breton, to show he considers himself
+as of a different people and country to the rest
+of France, a feeling which more than three hundred
+years has not dissipated. Our driver would talk of
+Bretons and French as of distinct nations, and the
+Normans in this part of Brittany are the special
+objects of hatred, originating, perhaps, in the former
+subjection of Brittany to Normandy. When Charles
+the Simple ceded to the fierce Northmen the province
+now known by their name, their sovereignty
+extended over Brittany, and the dukes of Normandy
+did homage for both provinces to the King of
+France. The Bretons struggled hard against the
+supremacy of the Barbarians, but eventually had
+to acknowledge the Duke of Normandy as their
+sovereign lord.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Brieuc, principal town of the department of
+the Côtes-du-Nord, has been described as an old
+town with a new face. Though one of the oldest in
+Brittany, it has little of antiquity to detain the traveller.
+The Palais de Justice is a handsome building,
+in the midst of a pretty garden, commanding a
+view of the Tour de Cesson, lower down the river
+(the Gouët), a large circular tower built by Duke
+John IV., and blown up by Henry IV., at the
+desire of the Briochins, as the inhabitants of St.
+Brieuc style themselves. The mine split it in two,
+and the part that remains serves as a landmark for
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page072">[pg 072]</span><a name="Pg072" id="Pg072" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the pilots between St. Brieuc and its port, about
+two miles distant, called Légué. Notre Dame
+d'Espérance is a pretty church, rebuilt about ten
+years since, with a calvary in front, and a series of
+painted windows representing the principal saints
+of Brittany, and the most celebrated pilgrimages of
+the Virgin in that province. At St. Brieuc, 1689,
+James II. of England reviewed his little army, and
+was received with royal honours by the bishop of
+the place.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We proceeded by the railway to Guingamp, next
+to St. Brieuc, the principal town of the department,
+capital of the duchy of Penthièvre. It is situated
+in the richly wooded and cultivated valley of the
+Trieux, a favourite fishing river of considerable size,
+and affording trout, salmon, and dace, from Guingamp
+to Paimpol, where it falls into the sea, a distance
+of twenty miles. It runs through the centre
+of the town, and is here a considerable stream.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Attached to the Cathedral is the venerated sanctuary
+of Notre Dame-du-Bon-Secours, one of the
+most celebrated places of pilgrimage in Brittany.
+The pardon takes place the Saturday before the first
+Sunday in July, and owes its origin to the brotherhood
+called the "Frérie blanche," an association of
+which Duke Peter accepted the title of lay-abbot.
+The motto embroidered on their banner was (in
+Breton) "A triple cord is not easily broken." The
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page073">[pg 073]</span><a name="Pg073" id="Pg073" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+triple cord being emblematic of the three estates—clergy,
+nobles, and laity—in whose unity consisted
+the strength of Brittany. The Frérie blanche no
+longer exists, the triple cable is broken, the pilgrimage
+alone remains.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image19.jpg" width="409" height="636" alt="" title="19. Fountain of Duke Peter." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">19. Fountain of Duke Peter.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">La Pompe, or the fountain of Duke Peter, as it is
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page074">[pg 074]</span><a name="Pg074" id="Pg074" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+called, is of later dater date, being in the style of the
+Renaissance. It consists of three circular basins in
+tiers. On the lower are sea-horses, which, with their
+wings, support the second basin, and Naiads uphold
+the third. On the top is a figure of the Virgin with
+her arms extended.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The women of Guingamp wear high muslin caps,
+dark petticoats, and black stockings. Knitting-pins
+in hand, they work away at their stockings whether
+walking, talking, or with a load of butter on their
+heads, as they do throughout all Brittany. When
+not at work, their knitting-pins are stuck in their
+hair. Knitting and spinning are the occupation of
+their lives. When the Breton's idol, Du Guesclin,
+was a prisoner to the Black Prince, and was asked how
+he could raise the large sum named for his ransom,
+Du Guesclin replied, that "the women of Brittany
+would rather spin for a year and ransom him with
+their distaffs, than that he should remain prisoner."</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Quand vous étiez captif, Bertrand, fils de Bretagne,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Tous les fuseaux tournaient aussi dans la campagne;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Chaque femme apporte son écheveau de lin;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Ce fut votre rançon, messire Du Guesclin!</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left">
+ <span class="tei tei-title" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Les Bretons</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">,
+ </span><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">A. Brizeux</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.
+</span></span></div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Guingamp was given by Duke John V. to his son
+Peter, who resided here and rebuilt the castle. When
+attacked by his mortal illness, the physicians attributed
+his malady to witchcraft, and declared it could
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page075">[pg 075]</span><a name="Pg075" id="Pg075" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+only be remedied by counter-spells. The Prince
+refused to have recourse to such means, saying,
+"I had rather die by the will of God, than live by
+the will of the Devil."—"J'aime mieux mourir de
+par Dieu, que de vivre de par le Diable."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We walked to the small chapel of St. Léonard,
+picturesquely situated on a little eminence. It was
+built by Charles of Blois, on his return from his
+captivity in England, and dedicated by him to St.
+Léonard, the patron-saint of prisoners—a contemporary
+of Clovis, from whom he obtained permission
+to set free all the captives he should find in the
+prisons. In the month of May, people who are
+attacked with fever repair to St. Léonard to seek,
+upon the walls of the chapel or on the calvary
+attached to it, snails as cures for their malady.
+They must gather them themselves, pound them,
+and put them into little bags, which they wear round
+their necks. As soon as the fever leaves them they
+bury their bags at the foot of the walls of the chapel,
+and, if they fail to perform this ceremony, the fever
+will return. We found quantities of these bags,
+made of coarse linen, lying half-buried under the
+walls of the chapel. There is a pardon here every
+year, on which occasion only the chapel is opened.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We took a carriage to Paimpol. On our way we
+stopped at the Château de Boisgelin, belonging to
+the Marquis of the same name, but could not obtain
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page076">[pg 076]</span><a name="Pg076" id="Pg076" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+admittance. On to the Abbey of Beauport (Sancta
+Maria de Bello Porto), founded in the thirteenth
+century, beautifully situated on a tongue of land at
+the entrance of the Bay of Paimpol, opposite the
+island of Saint-Rion. In its large garden, which
+extends down to the sea, are planted myrtles, figs,
+mulberries, and other trees of the south of Europe.
+Beauport has been called the Chartreuse of Brittany.
+It is a lovely secluded spot, as, indeed, are most of
+the sites of the old abbeys, varying in aspect, but
+always beautiful. No description can give an idea
+of the magnificent panoramic views from the walls
+of the abbey.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image20.jpg" width="550" height="728" alt="" title="20. Abbey of Beauport." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">20. Abbey of Beauport.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">M. Merimée justly observes, "It appears strange
+that, in so early a stage of civilisation, the monks
+should be so alive to the beauties of nature. The
+contemplative habits of monastic life must at all
+times have imparted to the mind a feeling of abstract
+beauty, independent of any idea of real utility. Secure
+of an uniform, peaceful existence, limited in
+his pleasures and his ambition, sheltered by his sacred
+office, above others, from the reverses of fortune,
+the monk of the thirteenth century was in a position
+to love, and did love, beauty for itself. And while
+the knight, at war with all the world, thought only
+on building an impregnable fortress, the abbot embellished
+his dwelling, and tasted the enjoyments
+afforded by imagination and the arts. "The abbey
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page077">[pg 077]</span><a name="Pg077" id="Pg077" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page078">[pg 078]</span><a name="Pg078" id="Pg078" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page079">[pg 079]</span><a name="Pg079" id="Pg079" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of Beauport is built in the pointed style, and is a
+perfect example of the monastic architecture of the
+thirteenth century—the most important and most
+beautiful convent ruins in Brittany. The original
+disposition of its buildings may yet be clearly traced.
+These abbeys were all built upon the same plan.
+In the centre was the square garden (préau), surrounded
+by the cloisters. On the south side the
+church, extending from west to east; on the north,
+the refectory, with the kitchen attached. On the
+east was the chapter-house, and some small apartments;
+above these were the dormitories. Outside
+was the interior court, reserved for the brethren, and
+beyond, the great court, into which the provisions
+were brought, and round which were the stables and
+farm buildings. The garden, orchard, mill, oven,
+dovecote, cider-press, &amp;c., were all within the walled
+enclosure, for the abbeys were not merely convents
+dedicated solely to devotional exercises. After prayer
+followed labour. The Breton abbeys were quite
+model farms; the woods and the commons afforded
+the means of rearing cattle to those who had the
+privilege of pasturage in the forests. Many had
+also the right of acorns and beech-mast for their
+pigs (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">droit au gland et à la faîne</span></span>). One abbey,
+that of Morimond (Haute Marne), is recorded to
+have had twenty piggeries, of three hundred pigs
+each, distributed in its forests. The monks also
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page080">[pg 080]</span><a name="Pg080" id="Pg080" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+reared sheep and horses, and fattened fish in their
+ponds. They were the first who advanced the
+science of horticulture and the cultivation of vegetables.
+To these agricultural pursuits were added,
+in many convents, the industrial arts, and some of
+the brethren were brewers, curriers, fullers, weavers,
+shoemakers, carpenters, and blacksmiths. Their
+cultivation of the liberal arts and sciences is well
+known. During the Middle Ages the monasteries
+were the sole depositories of learning. Beauport is
+now occupied by a Polish lady, Countess Poninsky,
+who allows no one to enter the abbey, as her husband
+was buried in the church.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Two or three miles further we reached Paimpol,
+where we remained the night, at a nice hotel.
+Paimpol is a seaport town prettily situated in a
+cultivated country on the bay that bears its name.
+Its inhabitants are employed in the mackerel
+and Iceland fisheries. The women about here
+wear close straw-bonnets. They all, in this department,
+ride on horseback, "à califourchon," like
+the men.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We hired our carriage on to Tréguier. At
+Lézardrieux we passed the estuary of the Trieux,
+over a magnificent suspension-bridge, at a considerable
+elevation above the water, vessels sail under it.
+It was built 1840, and is 833 feet long, that is, 167
+longer than the famed bridge of La Roche Bernard
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page081">[pg 081]</span><a name="Pg081" id="Pg081" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+(Loire Inférieure). The bridge swung frightfully
+when we passed over it. In the churchyard of
+Pleudaniel is a pretty granite calvary, and skulls are
+placed in recesses in the wall on each side of the
+church-porch.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We next came to the Château of La Roche
+Jagu, on the summit of a hill overhanging the
+river Trieux and defending the entrance. It has
+more of the character of a "maison forte" than of
+a "manoir," as was termed the habitation of a
+knight, and of those who holding a fief, yet did
+not possess the seignorial right to a castle with
+towers and donjon. The manoir might be enclosed
+by walls and moats, but not with towers. The entrance
+on the side opposite to the river is through
+a large walled court by a low Gothic doorway,
+closed by an enormous iron grating of upright and
+horizontal bars of great thickness, hanging on four
+hinges, and secured by four locks; all the windows
+have gratings of the same kind. A stone staircase
+leads to the one story, consisting of a suite of large
+rooms half lighted by narrow windows. Some of
+these are occupied by the keeper of the castle and
+others are reserved for the use of the proprietor, the
+Marquis d'Argentré, and, when he goes there, are
+decorated and partly furnished with the pieces of
+old tapestry lying about. At the end of these
+rooms is a turret, which communicates with a
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page082">[pg 082]</span><a name="Pg082" id="Pg082" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+covered gallery surmounting the whole length of the
+façade facing the river, and commanding a beautiful
+view of the windings of the silvery Trieux
+and of its fir-clothed banks. This gallery is furnished
+with battlements, and served the double
+purpose of a rampart and an observatory. The
+wall on the river-side is fifteen feet thick, and a
+chapel hewn in the thickness of the wall is lighted
+by a Gothic window looking over the Trieux.
+Fourteen elegant chimney-shafts of cut stone, cylindrical
+in form, and ornamented with iron spikes,
+give a most original character to the building.
+The château belonged to the Maréchal Duc de
+Richelieu, who sold it in 1773 to the Tressan family,
+under the stipulation that its subterranean passages
+should not be explored. They are said to extend
+under the bed of the river to the Château of Frinandour,
+half a league distant.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We next passed through Pontrieux, a pretty,
+small town, seated in a deep valley, the river Trieux
+flowing through it. The river here is famous for
+salmon, and there is a considerable commerce in its
+little port.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">La Roche-Derrien on the Jaudy, during the
+War of Succession in Brittany, was a castle of some
+celebrity. It was here Charles of Blois was taken
+prisoner by the English, who, under Sir Thomas
+Dagworth, were in possession of the place. Charles
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page083">[pg 083]</span><a name="Pg083" id="Pg083" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of Blois assembled a large army, and attacked them
+by night. Three times was he rescued, and three
+times retaken; he had received eighteen wounds,
+and was at last compelled to surrender. Jeanne de
+Montfort, like all women who hate, was very vindictive,
+and caused her illustrious prisoner to be
+ignominiously dragged to Quimperlé, Vannes, and
+Hennebont, whence he was transferred to London,
+and confined in the Tower. It was nine years
+before he regained his liberty.  Meanwhile his
+heroic wife, Jeanne de Penthièvre, became head of
+his party, as Jeanne de Flandre was that of the
+De Montfort. The "War of the two Jeannes"
+continued for nine years, during which they fought
+with fierceness and courage, and ruled with ability.
+Curious,—the history of France was illustrated in
+this century by five heroines of the name of Jeanne:
+Jeanne d'Arc, Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais, and
+the Jeannes of Penthièvre, Flandre, and Clisson,
+who made themselves famous in Brittany. On his
+release, Charles of Blois gave La Roche-Derrien to
+Du Guesclin.  The castle was demolished, but a
+calvary has been built on the site.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Not far from La Roche-Derrien is the church of
+Langoat, which contains the monument of Ste.
+Pompée (1370), mother of St. Tugdual. On the
+granite tomb reposes her marble effigy, and around
+it bas-reliefs in Gothic niches represent the life of the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page084">[pg 084]</span><a name="Pg084" id="Pg084" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+saint. In all the churches in this district, tressels
+are placed in the nave ready for funerals. The
+gravestones have in each a little hollow well, to
+contain water for sprinkling over the grave, or in
+some a small basin is set upon the gravestone, with
+a sprig of box laid by the side, for the same pious
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Every one must be struck by the excellence of
+the roads in Brittany, as indeed throughout France;
+in no instance does the French administrative talent
+more fully display itself. The roads are of three
+classes: the "routes impériales," under the care of
+the Government; "départementales," kept entirely
+at the expense of the department; and the "chemins
+vicinaux," which belong to the communes or
+parishes, and which all the inhabitants are called
+upon to support. To each lieue de poste (two and
+a half miles), is appointed a "cantonnier" or road-keeper,
+who is responsible for the condition of the
+length of road assigned to his care.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We stopped at Kermartin, a farmhouse near
+Tréguier, to see the bed said to have belonged to
+St. Ives, the favourite saint of the Bretons, and
+whose name is borne by the majority of the inhabitants
+of the district of Tréguier and St. Brieuc.
+Charles of Blois held him in great veneration. He
+gave part of a rib of St. Ives to the church at Lamballe,
+and carried the relic in procession barefooted to
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page085">[pg 085]</span><a name="Pg085" id="Pg085" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the church. Before the battle of Auray, he ordered
+his men to march "in the name of God and St.
+Yves."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Ives, or Yves Hélory, was one of the most
+remarkable characters of the thirteenth century.
+He studied law in the schools of Paris, and applied
+his talents in defending the cause of the poor;
+hence he was called "the poor man's advocate;"
+and so great to this day is the confidence placed in
+his justice, that, in the department of the Côtes-du-Nord,
+when a debtor falsely denies his debt, a
+peasant will pay twenty sous for a mass to St. Yves,
+convinced that St. Yves will cause the faithless
+creditor to die within the year. His truthfulness
+was such, he was called St. Yves de Verité. He is
+the special patron of lawyers, and always represented
+in the "mortier," or lawyer's cap, with an
+ermine-trimmed scarlet robe.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Saint Yves était Breton,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Avocat et pas larron,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Chose rare, se dit-on.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Lawyers, says a writer, take him for a patron, but
+not for a model. Philip le Hardi, in acknowledgment
+of his worth, granted him a pension of six
+deniers a day—in those times a considerable sum.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Over this house is a marble tablet with this inscription:—</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page086">[pg 086]</span><a name="Pg086" id="Pg086" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“Ici est né le 17 Oct^r 1253, et est mort le 19 Mai 1303,</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Saint Yves,</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-q">Officiel de Tréguier, curé de Tredretz et de Lohannec. Sa
+maison, qui a subsisté jusqu'en l'année 1834, ayant été alors
+demolie à cause de vetusté, Mg^r Hyacinthe Louis de Quelen,
+Arch^vque de Paris, et propriétaire des domaines de Kermartin,
+a fait placer cette inscription, afin qu'un lieu sanctifié par la
+presence d'un si grand serviteur de Dieu ne demeurât pas
+inconnu (1837).”</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The house is a good specimen of a Breton dwelling;
+by the side of the fire, in the one room of
+which most of these cottages consist, fixed against
+the wall like the berth of a ship, stands the bedstead
+or "lit clos" of old oak, shut in by carved and
+well-waxed sliding panels, often inscribed with the
+sacred monogram.  The two mattresses, paillasse,
+and "cossette de plume," are piled up to such a
+height as barely to admit of its tenants creeping into
+the bed. In front is the customary chest, containing
+the family wardrobe, answering the double purpose
+of a seat and the means of ascending into the bed.
+Often we have seen cupboards on each side of the
+large chimney with two shelves, which served as
+beds for the juvenile members of the family. Forms
+and a polished table complete the furniture; the
+last has frequently little wells hollowed in the top,
+used, instead of plates, to hold the soup. Over the
+table, suspended by pulleys, are two indispensable
+articles in a Breton dwelling—a large circular basket
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page087">[pg 087]</span><a name="Pg087" id="Pg087" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+to cover the bread, and a kind of wooden frame
+or rack, round which the spoons are ranged. Forks
+they do not use. Festoons of sausages, with hams,
+bacon, candles, skins of lard, onions, horse-shoes,
+harness, all hang suspended from the ceiling, which
+consists of fagots of hazel suspended by cross-poles.
+The floor is of beaten earth. One narrow window
+admits the light, and there are no outhouses. The
+manure-heap is generally at the house-door, and
+the pigs and poultry seem on an equally intimate
+footing as they are in our Irish cabins. The
+Breton's cottage has often no garden, to occupy his
+leisure hours; and the men, after their daily work,
+resort to the cabaret to spend their time and their
+earnings. Agriculture is very backward in Brittany,
+but the land produces abundance of corn. It
+is thrashed out direct from the field, on a clay floor
+(aire). Beet-root and clover grow very luxuriantly,
+and in some fields the pretty red clover (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Trifolium
+incarnatum</span></span>) carpets the country with its crimson
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Near the farmhouse of Kermartin is the parish
+church of Minihy-Tréguier, formerly a chapel
+founded by St. Ives and attached to the "manoir."
+The will of St. Ives is framed and hung up in the
+church, and his breviary is also preserved here; but
+the guide said it was now kept at the priest's house, as
+people were in the habit of taking away a leaf as a
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page088">[pg 088]</span><a name="Pg088" id="Pg088" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+relic. Minihy, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">i. e.</span></span> Monk's House, is a name given
+to those places which, through the intercession of
+some saint, had the right of sanctuary. They were
+marked with a red cross, and, how great soever the
+crime, were regarded as inviolable. In 1441 the
+right of sanctuary was restricted to churches;
+before, it was extended to towns and districts.
+Tréguier had the privilege within a radius of twelve
+miles from the town. St. Malo also possessed the
+right of sanctuary. Tréguier is one of the four
+bishoprics that formed the ancient divisions of
+Brittany. The others were Léon, Cornouaille, and
+Vannes. The "pays de Tréguier" answers exactly
+to the present department of the Côtes-du-Nord;
+Léon to the territory or arrondissement of Brest and
+Morlaix; Cornouaille has Quimper and Carhaix
+for its principal towns; and Vannes, the country of
+Celtic remains, is to the south.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Tréguier is prettily situated on a hill, at the confluence
+of the rivers Jaudy and Guindy; its principal
+building is the beautiful, imposing cathedral, with
+its elegant spire, begun in the thirteenth century by
+St. Yves, and dedicated to St. Tugdual, whose name,
+like St. Yves, is often given in baptism to the
+Breton children. St. Yves is buried here, and also
+Duke John V., who founded the Chapelle du Duc,
+and desired to be interred at the feet of St. Yves,
+for whom he had a special regard, and to whom he
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page089">[pg 089]</span><a name="Pg089" id="Pg089" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+erected a magnificent tomb, for three centuries the
+object of veneration in Brittany. The Duke paid
+for it his own weight in silver (389 marks 7 oz.),
+in 1424, to Maistre Jacques de Hougue. The victories
+of his father John the Conqueror were chased
+in bas-relief round the tomb, which was destroyed
+in 1793. Duke John V. was a contemptible prince,
+who eight times changed his party from weakness
+rather than policy, and on whom Margaret de
+Clisson and her sons retaliated the cowardly seizure
+of her father, the Constable Clisson, by Duke
+John IV. One of the towers of the cathedral is
+called the tower of Hastings, but its date is evidently
+subsequent to that of the Norman freebooter. The
+cathedral has preserved its beautiful cloisters, the
+work of the fifteenth century, although it has been
+ravaged by the Normans of the ninth century, the
+English in the fourteenth, the Spaniards in the sixteenth,
+and by the Revolutionists of 1793. It was
+the port chosen by the Constable Clisson, 1387, for
+the invasion of England, an expedition proposed
+and projected by himself. His hatred against the
+English was so great, though educated in England,
+he was termed the "boucher des Anglais." When
+the Duke of Brittany gave Chandos the château
+of Gavre, which was within a league of Clisson's
+château of Blain (Loire Inférieure), "I will never,"
+he exclaimed, "be the neighbour of the English,"
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page090">[pg 090]</span><a name="Pg090" id="Pg090" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and accordingly he sallied out one morning and
+burnt the castle to the ground. Chandos complained
+to the Black Prince, who sent a letter of
+remonstrance to Clisson, but it was only replied
+by a challenge to the Prince to meet him in single
+combat. Clisson caused his own ship to be built at
+Tréguier, and had constructed a tower or framework
+of large timber, to be put together on his
+landing in England, for the lords to retreat to as
+a place of safety, and to be lodged therein securely
+in the event of a night attack. This tower, Froissart
+says, was so constructed, that when dislodged
+it could be taken to pieces, and many carpenters
+and other workmen were engaged, at very high
+wages, to go with it to England to superintend
+the putting of it together. Four thousand men-at-arms
+and 2000 cross-bowmen were in readiness
+for the expedition, with horses, vessels laden with
+wine, salted provisions, and other necessaries. All
+these formidable preparations were rendered useless
+by the arrest of the Constable the day before his
+embarkation. We went to the Cemetery, which
+has its ossuary, reliquary, or bone-house, an inseparable
+appendage to a Breton churchyard. It is
+the custom in Brittany, after a certain time, to dig
+up the bones of the dead, and preserve their skulls
+in little square boxes, like dog-kennels, with a
+heart-shaped opening through which the skull is
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page091">[pg 091]</span><a name="Pg091" id="Pg091" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+visible. They are all ticketed with the names and
+dates of the deceased, as "Ci gît le chef de * * *
+D. c. D. (décédé) le * * * * *. Priez Dieu pour
+son âme."</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image21.jpg" width="120" height="158" alt="" title="21. Skull-box." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">21. Skull-box.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These boxes sometimes occupy prominent places
+inside the churches or porch, on window
+sills, the capitals of columns, and
+other ledges; but more often are
+ranged in the ossuaries or charnel-houses
+built in the churchyards to
+receive them, with a row of death's-heads
+carved in the stone outside.
+The large bones are also placed in the ossuaire. The
+rich are buried in "enfeux" or arched recesses in
+the chapels or abbeys they have founded.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We continued our carriage to Lannion, our driver
+not very clear of his way, and in Brittany the road
+is very difficult to be discerned; for on each side
+are high earthen banks, sometimes eight or ten feet
+high, and on the top of these are planted timber-trees,
+such as oak, elm, and ash, which often meet
+at the top, entirely intercepting the view, making
+these narrow lanes a perfect slough and most intricate
+to thread. Sometimes they are cut in irregular
+steps in the solid rock, and serve for the bed
+of a stream. Each field is also surrounded by these
+hedgerow-trees, which are cut every four or five
+years.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page092">[pg 092]</span><a name="Pg092" id="Pg092" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We drove to Perros Guirec, a lovely little
+watering-place built on a small promontory with a
+safe harbour, whence wheat, hemp, and cattle are
+exported to England; it is six miles from Lannion.
+A dangerous rock, called Roche Bernard, is at its
+entrance. The view is lovely. From Perros we
+scrambled over a hilly cart-road to Ploumanach,
+about three miles distant—a wonderful spot, huge
+round erratic blocks of pink granite flung over land
+and sea in the wildest confusion. The whole coast
+is one sea of boulders, a chaos of rocks of all sizes
+cover the soil in every direction, and in many
+places there is no soil at all, and the loose masses
+rest on a bare bed of rock, stretching, in unbroken
+extent, to a great distance. "A wanderer," says
+Mr. Trollope, "amid this strange and silent scene
+might fancy himself the only living thing in the
+midst of a world turned to stone. In every possible
+variety of uncouth form and capricious, strange
+positions, the endless masses were around us."</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">All is rocks at random thrown,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone."</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left">
+ <span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Lord of the Isles</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.
+</span></span></div></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">One rock, surrounded at high water by the tide,
+is a square block of red granite of thirty to forty
+feet high, placed on the top of a still higher mass,
+on which it rests upon a very small base. It is
+called the "Roche Pendue," and serves as a landmark
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page093">[pg 093]</span><a name="Pg093" id="Pg093" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+for the fishermen. We took a small boat
+full of fish resembling codlings or small cod, called
+"lieu," and were rowed by the fishermen through
+a sea of granite boulders to the opposite side of the
+Trégastel estuary, to see the "pierre pendue," or
+rocking-stone (Breton, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">rouler</span></span>), the largest in Brittany.
+These stones are so nicely poised that they
+can be moved with the <span class="tei tei-corr">slightest</span> impulse by any one
+knowing the exact point at which to touch them.
+They were used in early times as proving-stones,
+and called "Pierres de verité."</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Firm as it seems,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Such is its strange and virtuous property,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Of him whose breast is pure; but to a traitor,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Though e'en a giant's prowess nerved his arm,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">It stands as fixed as Snowdon.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">
+—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Mason</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Or, as Sir Walter Scott alludes to them,—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Some, chance-poised and balanced, lay</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">So that a stripling arm might sway</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span style="font-size: 90%">A mass no host could raise,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">In nature's rage at random thrown,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Yet trembling like the Druid's Stone,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">On its precarious base.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">
+—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Lord of the Isles.</span></span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The council of Nantes, in the seventh century,
+ordered the bishops to have the rocking-stones
+destroyed. The coarse rose-coloured granite of this
+coast resembles the Egyptian.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We rowed back to the little inn at Ploumanach,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page094">[pg 094]</span><a name="Pg094" id="Pg094" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and had some eggs and a hot langouste or rock-lobster.
+This kind is more plentiful on the coast
+of Brittany than the common, but these rocky
+shores abound in both sorts. The village of Ploumanach
+is built nearly into the sea, in the midst of
+rocks overhanging the harbour. It is almost exclusively
+frequented by fishermen; in the front is a
+group of rocks or islands called Les Sept Iles; the
+Ile aux Moines, the most important among them,
+is strongly fortified, and is directly opposite Ploumanach.
+At the inn we found a German artist
+employed in making sketches in oil of this strange
+coast. It was late when we reached Lannion, a
+town prettily situated in the valley of Leguer; it
+contains no remarkable buildings except a few
+houses of the period of Henry IV. and Louis XIII.
+in the market-place. The mackerel and other
+fisheries are carried on from here, the grande and
+petite pêche, the "lieu" is taken in shoals and salted.
+The seaweed or wrack (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Fucus vesiculosus</span></span>) called
+goëmon, is extensively collected along the coasts of
+Brittany for fertilising the lands and also for fuel,
+which last is so scarce that even cow-dung is collected
+and dried against the walls for the same use. The
+gathering of goëmon takes place in March and September,
+and employs the whole population of the
+district. Souvestre says, that on the appointed day
+for gathering the crop, horses, oxen, cows, dogs,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page095">[pg 095]</span><a name="Pg095" id="Pg095" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+every animal, and every machine, is put into requisition.
+Women and children all are assembled in
+the bays, sometimes to the number of 10,000
+persons; but, to allow the poor to have the full
+advantage, the custom is, on the first day, to admit
+only the necessitous of the parish. These borrow
+their neighbours' vehicles, and collect a good crop.
+It is called "the day of the poor." The goëmon
+grows on rocks at a distance from the shore, and
+the peasants not having sufficient boats to collect it
+tie the heaps together with cords on to branches of
+trees and form a raft, on which the whole family is
+launched; a barrel is attached at the end, and the
+unsteady craft often rolls over and its cargo is
+precipitated into the water. The fine sands of the
+sea shore are also carted and laid on the heavy
+lands to divide the soil. Ascending the valley of
+the Leguer, about eight miles from Lannion, on the
+opposite side of the river, we turned down a muddy
+lane, and getting out into a field saw in front of us
+the imposing castle of Tonquédec, perhaps the
+finest remains in Brittany of military architecture,
+dating from the fourteenth century. It crowns the
+summit of a hill, wooded down to the river's edge,
+with water-mills and a little village at the foot, the
+bright sparkling river running through the deep
+wild valley; nothing can exceed the picturesque
+effect of these ruins when seen from the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page096">[pg 096]</span><a name="Pg096" id="Pg096" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+opposite bank. Tonquédec has belonged from
+time immemorial to the Viscomtes de Coêtmen,
+who held the first rank among the nobles of
+Brittany, but one of them espousing the cause
+of the Constable Clisson against Duke John IV.
+saw his fortress demolished. It was restored under
+Henry IV., and again dismantled by order of
+Cardinal Richelieu, who hated castles and their
+nobility. The castle is an irregular four-sided
+figure. It had an outer enclosure, and was entered
+by a drawbridge, and furnished with every imaginable
+fortification. Three sides were surrounded
+by dwellings, among these a fine roofed salle d'armes
+remains. A flying bridge led to the keep, which
+was of four stories, but the entrance on the first
+story, so that in case of siege the garrison might
+retire to the keep, and hold out till want of provisions
+or ammunition compelled them to surrender.
+The towers and walls remain, the latter are ten feet
+thick.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our way to Plouaret we drove up to the
+château of Kergrist, a square edifice with pepper-box
+towers at each angle, in good preservation,
+occupied by a lady of the name of Douglas. Our
+driver could not find the way to the "Chapelle des
+Sept Saints," built over a dolmen, which lay near
+the station at Plouaret, whence we proceeded by
+rail, and, entering the department of Finistère,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page097">[pg 097]</span><a name="Pg097" id="Pg097" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+shortly after reached Morlaix over its magnificent
+granite viaduct, the most important among the
+many which occur between Rennes and Brest. The
+railway runs parallel to the coast, and traverses, not
+far from their mouths, the streams which abound
+in this "pays accidenté." This gigantic work is
+one-sixth of a mile (292 yards) long, and consists
+of two tiers of arches, fourteen in the upper line
+and nine below.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Morlaix is picturesquely built on the sides of
+three ravines, so steep that the saying goes, "De la
+mansarde au jardin, comme on dit à Morlaix." It is
+situated on a tidal river, about eight miles from the
+sea, ascended by small vessels, which give the place a
+lively appearance. Few towns have so many beautiful
+timbered houses of the fifteenth and sixteenth
+centuries remaining. One of the most curious is that
+belonging to a miller, No. 19, in the Rue des Nobles,
+a street where the houses are built one story projecting
+over the other, so that the top stories of the
+opposite houses nearly touch each other and exclude
+the light. The fronts, gable-shaped, have their
+enormous beams richly carved, and supported by
+brackets and statues of St. Yves or other favourite
+saints; some are overlaid with lozenge-shaped slates,
+and finished at the point with a leaden "épi," or
+ornamental terminal. All have a kind of hall,
+panelled and sculptured to the roof, the staircases
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page098">[pg 098]</span><a name="Pg098" id="Pg098" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+richly sculptured and supported by a pillar carved
+from top to bottom with statues of saints or grotesque
+figures superposed one over the other.
+Among the statuettes in the house, No. 19, are the
+figures of St. Roch and his dog; St. Christopher
+carrying the infant Jesus, St. Michael, and various
+others. On another staircase, in better preservation,
+but not so richly carved (at the Veuve Perron's, No.
+14, Grande Rue), are female saints,—the Virgin, St.
+Catherine, and St. Barbara.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Morlaix gave a grand reception to the Queen-Duchess
+Anne, when on her pilgrimage through
+Brittany in 1505. The town presented her with a
+little ship of gold, bearing the arms of the city, and
+enriched with precious stones, and a tame ermine
+with a diamond collar round its neck. Anne
+received the ermine, and caressed the little animal,
+who returned her endearments, and, at length,
+suddenly concealed itself in her bosom, which unexpected
+proceeding startled the Queen, when the
+Seigneur du Rohan, who was by her side, exclaimed,
+"What do you fear, madam; is not the
+ermine your cognisance?" No less enthusiastic
+was the reception given by the citizens of Morlaix
+forty years later (1548) to Mary Stuart, then only
+five years old, on her landing in France. She was
+lodged in the convent of the Jacobins, and assisted
+at the Te Deum in the church of Notre Dame-du-Mur.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page099">[pg 099]</span><a name="Pg099" id="Pg099" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+When passing through one of the gates
+on her way back, the drawbridge, overloaded with
+spectators, gave way, and several persons were
+thrown into the water. Mary's Scottish attendants
+cried out "Treason!" but the Seigneur de Rohan,
+who was on horseback by the side of the royal
+litter, indignantly exclaimed, "Jamais Breton ne
+fit trahison." The loyalty and good faith of the
+Bretons is proverbial. "En tout chemin, loyauté,"
+is a Breton motto,<a id="noteref_8" name="noteref_8" href="#note_8"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">8</span></span></a>
+and it is one of the virtues attributed
+to them by a Breton writer, who assigns to
+them four virtues and three vices. Their virtues
+consist in a love of their country and their home,
+resignation to the will of the Almighty, loyalty to
+each other, and hospitality. Their vices are avarice,
+contempt for women, and drunkenness. Their love
+of country and home is carried to an extent,
+rivalling, if not exceeding, that of the Swiss. The
+Breton not only loves the village where he was
+born, but he loves the field of his fathers, the
+hearth and the clock of his home, even the bed on
+which he was born, and on which he hopes to close
+his eyes. The conscript and sailor are often known
+to die of grief when away from their native land.
+Brittany possesses for its children an inconceivable
+attraction, and there is no country in the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page100">[pg 100]</span><a name="Pg100" id="Pg100" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+world where man is more attached to his native
+soil.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">O landes! ô forêts! pierres sombres et hautes,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Bois qui couvrez nos champs, mers qui battez nos côtes,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Villages où les morts errent avec les vents,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Bretagne, d'où vient l'amour de tes enfants?</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">
+—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Brizeux.</span></span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Bretons are brave soldiers and good sailors;
+their disposition is hasty and violent, and even
+ferocious in anger. When the people of Nantes
+rose up in rebellion against Duke Francis, his
+brother-in-law, the Comte du Foix, sent to pacify
+them, said to him on his return from his mission,
+"J'aimerais mieux être prince d'un million de
+sangliers que de tel peuple que sont vos Bretons"—Brittany
+has always been the theatre of great virtues
+and great crimes.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On Sunday we went to the Welsh Baptist Chapel,
+to hear Mr. Jenkins preach in the Breton language.
+He has been there thirty years zealously labouring
+among the peasants, to convert whom he was sent
+by the Welsh Baptist Missionary Society. From
+his thorough knowledge of the French and Breton
+languages, he is eminently fitted for the task. He
+travels about the surrounding country preaching,
+and establishing schools, and has revised the Breton<a id="noteref_9" name="noteref_9" href="#note_9"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">9</span></span></a>
+translation of the New Testament for the Society,
+and circulated, by means of colporteurs, from eight
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page101">[pg 101]</span><a name="Pg101" id="Pg101" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+to nine thousand Bibles, besides above 100,000
+tracts. The task of acquiring the Breton language
+is less difficult for a Welshman, for the similarity
+between them is so great that the two people are
+able to make themselves understood to each other.
+The labours of Mr. Jenkins have lately awakened the
+attention of the Breton Roman Catholic clergy, who
+have publicly denounced him from their altars, but
+without causing him to slacken in the good work
+he has undertaken. Persecuted by a tyrannical
+priesthood, who hold dominion over a peasantry
+bigoted in proportion to their ignorance, his position
+is one of difficulty and danger; but he goes
+on with undrooping energy, convinced that, though
+the progress is slow, the good seed has not been
+sown in vain, and will, in due time, bear fruit,
+though those who first sowed it may have passed
+away. There were about a dozen Bretons at the
+evening service; they seemed to be constantly
+going in and out, as if unable to keep up their
+attention to so long a service. There are also
+English Protestant chapels at Morlaix and Quimper,
+and French at Brest and Lorient.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We saw a christening in the cathedral, of a child
+about eighteen months old; the mother wore a
+wonderful conical cap of lace.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A few houses from our hotel a ball was going on,
+given every week for the workpeople of the town.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page102">[pg 102]</span><a name="Pg102" id="Pg102" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+The clatter of their iron-pointed wooden shoes
+seemed quite to drown the music.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day we walked to the Fontaine des Anglais,
+so-called from the slaughter of a body of English
+at that place. Jealous of the prosperity of Morlaix,
+Henry VIII. sent a fleet up the river to attack the
+place, and the commander, being informed by a
+spy of the absence of the chief nobles at Guingamp,
+and of the townsmen at the fair of Pontivy, landed
+with a force which entered Morlaix, burnt it, and
+returned laden with booty to their boats. Six or
+seven hundred men, who were intoxicated, fell
+asleep in the wood, where they were attacked by the
+nobles, who had hastened from Guingamp to
+the assistance of the town, and were all massacred.
+The neighbouring fountain, said to have been
+tinged with the invaders' blood, received in memory
+of the event the name of "Fontaine des Anglais."
+It was on this occasion the town of Morlaix added
+to its arms, a lion (emblem of vigilance), encountering
+a two-headed leopard (for England), with the
+punning motto, "S'ils te mordent, mors-les"
+(Morlaix).</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Emile Souvestre, author of 'Le Foyer Breton,'
+and 'Les Derniers Bretons,' the ablest portrayer of
+Breton manners, customs, and superstitions, was a
+native of Morlaix; he died in the Protestant Communion,
+1854.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page103">[pg 103]</span><a name="Pg103" id="Pg103" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We were recommended to sail down the Morlaix
+River to its mouth, as the scenery is very picturesque,
+but we had not time to effect it. The
+great beauty of Brittany generally consists in its
+river scenery, the Rance, to Dinan; the rivers of
+Quimper and Quimperlé; the Aven, Elorn, and
+Blavet, are all highly picturesque and worth visiting.
+Our next drive was to St. Pol de Léon, partly along
+the bank of the river, passing under the church of
+Notre Dame-de-la-Salzette and the convent below
+of St. François. The tall steeples of St. Pol are
+seen at a great distance, and looking behind is the
+best view of the Mené-Bré, an insulated conical
+mountain, one of the Mené-Arré chain, situated
+near the station of Belle-Isle-Bégard. A chain of
+mountains runs through the Côtes-du-Nord, and, at
+the western end of the department, forks off into
+two branches which traverse the whole of Finistère,—the
+Mené-Arré, or northern chain, and the Montagnes
+Noires, or southern.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Pol looks like a town of the Middle Ages.
+"The holy city," as it is called by the Léonnais,
+one of the four bishoprics<a id="noteref_10" name="noteref_10" href="#note_10"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">10</span></span></a> into which Brittany was
+divided, comprising the modern districts of Morlaix
+and Brest. The Pays de Léon is remarkable for
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page104">[pg 104]</span><a name="Pg104" id="Pg104" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the number of its religious monuments, its fine
+churches, its bone-houses, calvaries, way-side crosses,
+and shrines. Crosses are set up in every direction,
+and of every description, from the plain unpretending
+simple cross of wood or stone, to the huge
+crosses flaunting in green paint, with tears of gold—specimens
+of the taste of the maire or priest of
+the district. No Breton passes the sacred symbol
+without kneeling to salute it, and making the sign
+of the cross—evidence that the piety of those who
+first raised them has not degenerated in their
+posterity. The country is rich and varied. The
+Léonnais is tallest of all the Breton race; his dress is
+generally black or blue, with a coloured scarf round
+his waist, his hair is worn very long, and his broad-brimmed
+hat has a silver buckle.  He is grave,
+of a calm confiding faith, which nothing can shake
+or alter, and of intense religious feeling.  The
+church is the place of meeting, where all his business
+is transacted, all his aspirations centered.
+Throughout Brittany the priesthood are low and
+ignorant. Like the Irish, the Breton farmer's
+great ambition is to make his son a priest. In no
+part of France are they more uneducated than in
+Brittany.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Pol is still and melancholy, the grass grows
+in the streets, the city looks as if it had not
+awakened since its palmy days of the fourteenth
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page105">[pg 105]</span><a name="Pg105" id="Pg105" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+century. Its churches, <span class="tei tei-corr">calvaries</span>, cemeteries, all
+silent as death—</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“A deep,
+still pool in the ocean of life.”</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Its lively neighbour, Morlaix, offers a strange contrast:
+its inhabitants may well say they are three
+hundred years in advance of St. Pol.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The pride of St. Pol de Léon is the church of
+Notre Dame-de-Creizker. Its steeple, nearly 400 feet
+high, was said by Vauban to be the boldest piece of
+architecture he ever beheld. It is built in the centre
+of the church, entirely of granite, cut in the shape of
+tiles and open work, to within eighty feet from the
+base. According to the legend, on the spot where
+the church now stands, there lived in the time of
+St. Génévroc, a young girl, whom the saint found,
+when passing her house on the fête of our Lady,
+employed at her needle. He reproached her gently
+with her impiety, yet she went on sewing, saying
+"she required food on Sundays as well as on work
+days." But the girl has hardly finished speaking,
+when all her body became cold and motionless as
+a stone. She was completely paralysed. Asking
+pardon of St. Génévroc, he made the sign of the
+cross upon each of her limbs, and the power of
+motion returned. Grateful for her recovery, she
+gave to the saint, her house, which was situated in
+the middle of the town (as its name implies), as a
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page106">[pg 106]</span><a name="Pg106" id="Pg106" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+site for his church. It is said to have been built by
+an English architect, invited to Brittany by Mary
+Plantagenet, daughter of Edward III., and first wife
+of Duke John IV.<a id="noteref_11" name="noteref_11" href="#note_11"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">11</span></span></a></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The axis of the nave is inclined to the left, a
+mystic allusion to the position of the head of the
+expiring Saviour on the cross. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Et inclinato capite,
+emise spiritum</span></span>, "And He bowed his head, and gave
+up the ghost." The north porch of the Creizker is
+beautifully sculptured with leaves of the mallow, the
+vine, and mulberry. It was all under repair when
+we saw it.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image22.jpg" width="549" height="825" alt="" title="22. The Creizker." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">22. The <span class="tei tei-corr" style="text-align: center">Creizker</span>.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The cathedral has two fine towers with spires, and
+a magnificent rose window of the fifteenth century
+in the south transept, with, above, the "fenêtre
+d'excommunication." The fine porch, lightly and
+delicately sculptured, is surmounted by a balustrade,
+whence the episcopal benediction was given. Over
+the high altar is a large wooden crosier, gilt, from
+which to suspend the ciborium, similar to that we
+saw in the cathedral of Dol. A black marble slab,
+at the foot of the steps of the high altar, marks the
+grave of St. Pol de Léon, who died 570. St. Pol,
+the patron bishop and founder of the cathedral, was
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page107">[pg 107]</span><a name="Pg107" id="Pg107" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page108">[pg 108]</span><a name="Pg108" id="Pg108" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page109">[pg 109]</span><a name="Pg109" id="Pg109" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+one of the clergy of Great Britain who emigrated
+to Brittany in the sixth century; he landed in the
+island of Ouëssant, and passed on to the country of
+Léon, where he founded a monastery. The island
+of Batz was, at that time, infested by an enormous
+dragon, sixty feet long; the saint, accompanied by
+a warrior, entered the cavern of the monster, tied
+his stole round its neck, and gave him to his companion
+to lead, St. Pol following, beating him with
+his stick, till they arrived at the extremity of the
+island, when he took off the stole, and commanded
+the dragon to throw itself in the sea, an order the
+animal immediately obeyed. St. Pol is always represented
+with the dragon by his side, the stole round
+its neck. We were shown a little bell, said to have
+belonged to the saint. It appears he had repeatedly
+asked the king to give him this bell for his new
+church, but had always been refused. When one
+day some fishermen brought him a large fish taken
+off the island of Batz, and in its mouth was the
+coveted bell. It is certainly very ancient in form,
+a kind of square pyramid about four inches wide
+and nine high, of beaten red copper mixed, we were
+told, with a considerable quantity of silver. It is
+now rung over the heads of the faithful on pardons,
+as a specific against headache and earache—a singular
+remedy! The cathedral has a fine marble tomb
+of Bishop Visdelou, preacher to Queen Anne of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page110">[pg 110]</span><a name="Pg110" id="Pg110" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Austria; he is represented in a half reclining posture,
+in his pontifical garments. In every part of the
+cathedral are the little boxes of skulls.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Adjacent is the Ursuline convent, where is preserved
+a small figure of the Virgin in jet; brought
+from a church in the Iles Sainte Marguerite, taken
+from the Spaniards in the seventeenth century. It
+is supposed to possess miraculous powers, and is
+sent round to the sick as a specific.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We breakfasted at the little inn (Hôtel de
+France), commanding a pretty view of the coast
+from its windows and garden. The Léon country
+was governed by Viscounts, who boasted, among
+several manorial rights, the "droit de motte," which
+empowered them, if a vassal (they were "serfs de
+motte") attempted to live out of his demesne, or to
+enter the service of another lord, to bring him back
+to his "motte," a cord round his neck, and inflict
+upon him corporal punishment. By virtue of the
+same right, if the demesne of a lord was so placed
+that it had no natural height from which to survey
+its extent, his vassals were made to bring sufficient
+cart-loads of earth to raise a mound or "motte" of
+the requisite elevation. The other privilege was the
+droit de "bris," equivalent to our flotsum and jetsum,
+so lucrative that a Léon Viscount is recorded to have
+said, when a noble was exhibiting his casket of gems,
+that he possessed a jewel more precious than all
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page111">[pg 111]</span><a name="Pg111" id="Pg111" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+they were admiring—alluding to a rock famous for
+its shipwrecks. Duke John the Red, taking advantage
+of the misdeeds of one of these lords of Léon,
+seized his rich possessions and united them (1276) to
+the crown. The viscounty of Léon fell by alliance,
+in the fourteenth century, to the house of Rohan,
+in whose favour is was raised in the sixteenth to a
+principality.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We continued our drive to Roscoff, three miles
+distant, a little sea-port town, formerly one of the
+three great dens of corsairs and smugglers, all under
+the protection of St. Barbe,—the other two being
+Camaret and Le Conquet. Roscoff was the emporium
+of considerable contraband trade with England. Tea,
+wine, and brandy were brought over in small casks,
+which the smugglers tied together and threw into
+the sea, when near the coast, and landed at night.
+The whole country round is now one extent of
+kitchen-garden, the light sandy soil, dressed with
+the goëmon, produces an incredible quantity of
+vegetables, onions, cabbages, parsnips, asparagus, artichokes,
+cauliflowers, &amp;c. Of onions, 2,000,000 lbs.
+are said to be sent every year to England alone.
+The people here wear black caps, those of the men
+are stocking-knit. The gardeners of Roscoff will
+carry their produce above a hundred miles for sale.
+The chief vegetable consumed by the Bretons
+themselves is the cabbage, of which the quantity
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page112">[pg 112]</span><a name="Pg112" id="Pg112" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+raised is enormous. The kind grown is mostly the
+Jersey or cow-cabbage, which grows with stalks
+from five to six feet high, and has large leaves at
+every joint. They use them for their cattle, as
+well as for their own eating. Avenues of cabbages,
+stacked five or six feet high, are to be seen in most
+Breton markets. Bread or porridge of buckwheat
+(blé noir) with cabbage-soup is the customary diet
+of the country. The recipe is simple, consisting of a
+cabbage-leaf, over which a little hot water is thrown,
+and a "soupçon" of butter added to give it a
+flavour. These ingredients compose the national
+soup which always appears at the tâble d'hôte, with
+the inevitable "ragoût," <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">i. e.</span></span> harricoed mutton.
+
+The little town of Roscoff has some historic
+importance. It was here that John de Montfort
+sailed to England to do homage to King Edward III.
+for the duchy of Brittany, and returned by the same
+port. Here also the child-princess Mary Stuart
+landed in 1548 to marry the young Dauphin, afterwards
+Francis II. In commemoration of the event,
+she afterwards caused the little chapel of St. Ninian
+to be built close on the water's edge. It is not more
+than fifty feet long, and has an eastern flamboyant
+window, with others in the side walls. The
+arches are fast going to decay, the stone altar is
+also sculptured. When we saw it, the interior was
+filled with bundles of broom-branches and poultry.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page113">[pg 113]</span><a name="Pg113" id="Pg113" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+It is strange this little chapel, built by the Queen of
+two Kingdoms, should be suffered to fall to ruin for
+the lack of a trifling outlay.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Here, two hundred years later, Prince Charles
+Stuart landed after Culloden, in the French frigate
+the 'Heureux,' sent by the French Government
+to facilitate his escape, having eluded, through the
+chances of a fog, the pursuit of the English cruisers;
+and here he knelt, in the chapel of his ancestress, to
+return thanks for his deliverance.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The church of Roscoff has a curious pierced
+steeple, like many of those in Finistère, and some
+alabaster bas-reliefs of the fourteenth century, with
+numerous boxes of skulls. A ship rudely sculptured
+by the porch, and another by the east window, show
+that the fishermen and ship-owners contributed to
+the building of the church. By the shore is a rock
+of grotesque form, and opposite, about three miles
+from Roscoff, is the pretty island of Batz, which
+derives its name—Breton "batz," a stick—from the
+rod used by St. Pol de Léon to work his miracle.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">People were busily employed in boats collecting
+the goëmon, which they pile in heaps along the
+shore. The great curiosity of Roscoff is its enormous
+fig-tree, in the garden of the Capucine convent,
+said to be two centuries old. It is supported by
+stone pillars, and is, we were informed, above 300 feet
+in circumference.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page114">[pg 114]</span><a name="Pg114" id="Pg114" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We returned that evening to Morlaix: the viaduct
+by moonlight had a most picturesque appearance.
+Next morning we proceeded by rail to the station
+of St. Thégonnec, where nothing in the shape of a
+vehicle was to be had to convey us to the town—nearly
+a mile and a half distant—but the ricketty
+two-wheeled mail cart. At the little cabaret, which
+bears the important name of Hôtel de la Grande
+Maison, we procured breakfast. The church has
+been restored. It is rich in carvings, spoiled by
+gilding, the altars and canopied pulpit especially.
+Opposite to the last are two coloured "retables."
+The high altar, with two side altars and two smaller
+ones behind, are gorgeously carved, coloured and
+gilt, and extend to the roof. The painted-glass
+windows are the gifts of various persons. At the
+entrance of the churchyard is a Renaissance porch,
+or triumphal arch, dated 1581, with a sculpture
+representing St. Thégonnec, a bullock and car by
+his side. Adjoining, is the ossuary, or reliquary,
+bearing the date 1676, also in the same elaborate
+style, destitute of bones, but having below a crypt
+containing a group of life-sized figures representing
+the Entombment, with this inscription:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Tu le vois mort, pécheur, ce Dieu qui t'a fait naître:</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Sa mort est ton ouvrage, et devient ton appui.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A ce trait de bonté, tu dois au moins vivre pour lui.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the churchyard is also a calvary; the name given
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page115">[pg 115]</span><a name="Pg115" id="Pg115" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+to those monumental sculptures peculiar to Brittany,
+consisting of the crucifix, surrounded by the chief
+witnesses of the crucifixion, together with minor
+groups representing passages in the life of our
+Saviour. This calvary, executed in Kersanton
+stone, is dated 1610; the numerous figures are all
+in the grotesque costume of the period, with ruffs,
+toquets, trained gowns, and scalloped jackets.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image23.jpg" width="377" height="606" alt="" title="23. Calvary, Guimiliau." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">23. Calvary, Guimiliau.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We took a carriage for Guimiliau, passing on our
+road to the left, a grotto. The church of Guimiliau
+partly dates from the Renaissance; it has a finely
+sculptured porch, and contains within carvings of
+great beauty; the pulpit, supported on a column, is
+dated 1677; the organ-loft is enriched with splendid
+bas-reliefs in oak panels,—one represents a triumphal
+march, after Le Brun, the others, King David and
+St. Cecilia. But the grand monumental carving is
+the magnificent baptistery or baptismal font, surmounted
+by a baldachin or canopy, supported by
+eight twisted columns interlaced with vines, grapes
+and flowers, with graceful little birds pecking the
+fruit. On the top of the canopy is a dolphin, and
+above, two figures of Fame, trumpet-mouthed, surmounted
+by a royal crown and the letters S. V. This
+baptistery and the organ-loft are both in the style
+of Louis XIV., and are said to have cost 30,000 francs.
+In the churchyard are a triumphal arch and a reliquary,
+both inferior to those of St. Thégonnec, but
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page116">[pg 116]</span><a name="Pg116" id="Pg116" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the calvary of Guimiliau is one of the most extensive
+in Brittany. It is of the sixteenth century.
+It consists of a solid platform, ascended by a staircase,
+and raised upon arches; upon it, sculptured in
+Kersanton stone, are the three crosses, the centre
+one beautifully carved with St. John and the Virgin
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page117">[pg 117]</span><a name="Pg117" id="Pg117" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Mary by the side. The four Evangelists are placed
+at each corner, and all the passages in the life of
+Christ are represented by groups of little figures in
+the costume of the sixteenth century. This singular
+monument bears two different dates, those of 1581
+and 1588.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Guimiliau is close to the railway, but there is no
+station there. We returned to St. Thégonnec. The
+peasants along the road were threshing their buckwheat
+on the open ground; women as well as men
+were at work. They threshed in a circle, keeping
+good time with their strokes, and laughing merrily
+while they flourished their flails,—they appeared a
+most joyous party,—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Ho! batteux, battons la gerbe,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Compagnons, joyeusement.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Buckwheat, their "blé noir," is the Breton's chief
+food, and is cultivated to a large extent. With its
+coral-red stalks and snowy flowers it has a very
+pretty appearance growing, and is the first care of
+the Breton farmer—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Ah! que la sombre nue aux funestes lueurs,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Planant sur la campagne,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Epargne les blés-noirs, les blés aux blanches fleurs,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Ce pain de la Bretagne."</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">
+—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Stéphane Halgan</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This plant, a native of Asia Minor, was evidently,
+from its French name, "sarrazin," introduced into
+Europe by the Saracens or Moors. We proceeded
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page118">[pg 118]</span><a name="Pg118" id="Pg118" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+by rail to Brest, passing under the foot of the abrupt
+rock upon which stand the picturesque ruins of the
+ancient castle of La Roche Maurice and the church
+of La Roche. The rail runs along the banks of the
+Elorn through a narrow wooded valley; the windings
+of the river are very picturesque, and formerly a
+steamer ran from Landerneau to Brest, affording the
+opportunity of seeing them.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Brest, the first harbour in France, is Breton only
+in name and locality; it is built in an amphitheatre
+on the slopes of two hills divided by the river Penfeld,
+which forms the port. On the right is the
+suburb Recouvrance, on the left Brest proper. This
+irregular site often causes the second floor of the
+houses in one street to be on a line with the ground
+floor of another. Brest is clean and well built, and
+consists of three long parallel streets. The principal
+one, called the Rue de Siam, in commemoration of
+the Siamese Ambassadors sent to Louis XIV., who
+landed here, runs the whole length of the town,
+ending at the fine iron bridge called the Pont
+Impériale, the largest swing-bridge ever constructed.
+You descend by a flight of steps from
+the Rue de Siam to the lower streets. Running
+along the bay, of considerable extent, and well
+planted with trees, is the magnificent promenade
+called the Cours d'Ajot, from the name of the
+officer of the Engineers by whom it was laid out
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page119">[pg 119]</span><a name="Pg119" id="Pg119" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and planted a century back. Well sheltered by its
+trees and refreshed by the sea breezes, it commands
+a fine view over the new "port de commerce," and
+the whole extent of the harbour of Brest, which is
+capable of containing 500 ships of the line, and
+is, with the exception of those of Rio Janeiro
+and Constantinople, the largest and most beautiful
+in the world.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Brest harbour has only one entrance, which is
+to the west, through a narrow channel called Le
+Goulet, less than a mile in width, and cut into two
+by the Mingant rock. In the year 1796 the 'Republican'
+was lost here. Sailing out of the harbour,
+with a contrary wind and snow, the pilot thought
+he had passed the Mingant rock, when the ship
+struck, and went down with 800 men on board.
+Brest Castle in the Middle Ages was a place of such
+strength and importance that John IV., who had
+four times besieged it fruitlessly, when it was under
+the English dominion, was wont to say "Ce n'est
+duc de Bretagne, qui n'est pas sire de Brest." It
+had been held by Sir Robert Knolles against the
+army of the King of France under Du Guesclin,
+who was obliged to raise the siege. The donjon
+was built by King Richard II. during the War of
+Succession. The making Brest an important naval
+station was the thought of Richelieu, and the work
+of Louis XIV., who built the arsenal.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page120">[pg 120]</span><a name="Pg120" id="Pg120" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day we made an excursion to see the church
+of Notre Dame-du-Folgoët or the Fool of the Wood,
+celebrated in legendary lore: the tale is so old and
+often told, we have some scruples in repeating it.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Towards the middle of the fourteenth century,
+there lived in the woods of Lesneven, a poor idiot
+boy, called Salaun (Solomon), better known under
+the name of the Fool of the Wood (Folgoët). He
+was miserably clad, had no bed but the ground; no
+pillow, but a stone; no roof, but the tree which
+gave him shelter. He went every day to Lesneven
+to seek his daily bread, but he never begged; he
+uttered the simple words "Ave Maria! Solomon
+could eat bread," and returned with whatever pittance
+was given him to his tree near the fountain, into
+which he dipped his crusts, and plunged even in
+the depth of winter, for his bath, always repeating
+the words, "Hail, Maria!"  One day a party of
+marauding soldiers accosted him. In answer to their
+questions, he replied, "I am neither for Blois nor
+Montfort, I am the servant of the Lady Mary."
+This simple life he led for nearly forty years, when
+at last he fell ill and died, repeating his favourite
+words "Ave Maria." He was found dead near the
+fountain, and was buried by his neighbours. After
+a time, when the memory of the poor idiot boy had
+nearly passed away, there suddenly sprung up from
+his grave a white lily with the words "Ave Maria"
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page121">[pg 121]</span><a name="Pg121" id="Pg121" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+inscribed in letters of gold upon its petals. The
+news of the miracle spread throughout all Brittany,
+Duke John sent commissioners; the grave was
+opened, and it was found the lily proceeded from
+the mouth of Salaun,—"ceste royale fleur sortait
+par sa bouche du creux de son estomach"—a testimony
+of the innocence and piety "du plus beau
+mignon de la reine des Cieux." Duke John vowed
+to erect a church to our Lady over the fountain of
+the poor mendicant, whose faith had been thus recognised;<a id="noteref_12" name="noteref_12" href="#note_12"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">12</span></span></a>
+and, faithful to his promise, the first
+stone was laid by him in 1366, as a thank-offering
+for his success the previous year at the battle of
+Auray, which had fixed the crown upon his head.
+His wife, Joan of Navarre, not only made a pilgrimage
+to the Folgoët in 1396, but also contributed
+to the building of the church. It was
+completed by John V., about 1419. The Queen-Duchess
+Anne of Brittany went there in pilgrimage
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page122">[pg 122]</span><a name="Pg122" id="Pg122" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+after the recovery from illness of Louis XIII. Anne
+of Austria founded six masses at the Folgoët, in
+gratitude for the birth of Louis XIV., and several
+popes granted indulgences to those who made
+pilgrimages to this shrine. This church is one of
+the finest in Brittany. Its colour is sombre; it
+is the oldest monument in Brittany in which the
+Kersanton stone is employed.  This stone is a
+volcanic rock called hornblende, of very fine grain,
+with minute specks of mica. There is a large quarry
+near St. Pol de Léon; but it is found principally on
+the west of the harbour of Brest, near a village from
+which it takes its name. Kersanton stone is of a
+dark-green colour, approaching to bronze, gives
+out a metallic sound when struck, and is easily
+worked in the quarry, in blocks of from twenty to
+forty feet cube, but hardens on exposure to the air.
+Time has no destructive effect on it; the most
+delicate, lightest, and most ornamental sculptures
+executed in it remain uninjured, while the hardest
+granites, erected at the same time, are friable and
+decomposed. The Kersanton stone cuts glass like
+a diamond.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The architecture of the Folgoët is distinguished
+for the elegance and richness of its ornamentation:
+the softness of the Kersanton stone, when fresh
+taken from the quarry fits it specially for the deeply
+cut, lace-like works of the artists of the flamboyant
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page123">[pg 123]</span><a name="Pg123" id="Pg123" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+school, and the church is remarkable for the skill
+with which the productions of the vegetable kingdom
+are represented both within and without. It has no
+transepts, but to the south is a projection formed
+by the treasure chamber. The modern pulpit has a
+series of medallion bas-reliefs representing the legend
+of Solomon.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The jubé, or roodloft, is a perfect lacework of
+stone. Above three arches, decorated with vine-leaves,
+is an open-worked gallery of pierced quatre-foils
+surpassing in exuberance of ornament any other
+known.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">To the east are five altars, all of Kersanton stone,
+most delicately sculptured—the under-cutting of
+the foliage most wonderful. They are in the shape
+of tombs or sarcophagi, the form generally adopted
+for altars in the sixteenth century. Round the
+"autel des anges," richest of them all, is a row of
+eighteen niches, filled in with the figures of angels,
+holding alternately phylacteries and escutcheons;
+round the top is a cornice of thistle-leaves—on the
+cut stalk of one hangs a dew-drop perfect to nature.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The high altar is decorated with vine-leaves, birds
+pecking the grapes, and the ermine, with its motto
+"À ma vie," introduced. The altar of the rosary
+has also a cornice of vine-leaves modelled evidently
+after the high altar.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image24.jpg" width="415" height="590" alt="" title="24. The Fool's Well, Folgoët." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">24. The Fool's Well, Folgoët.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The fine flamboyant rose window at the east of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page124">[pg 124]</span><a name="Pg124" id="Pg124" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the church resembles that of St. Pol de Léon, and
+below it is the fountain of Salaun. The spring is
+concealed under the high altar, and flows into a
+basin without, preserved by a kind of Gothic porch
+sculptured with thistle-leaves and crockets, and
+within it, on a bracket, is a delicately chiseled image
+of the Virgin. Some children round the fountain
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page125">[pg 125]</span><a name="Pg125" id="Pg125" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+offered us pins, the use of which we did not understand.
+We afterwards learned that it is the custom
+in Brittany for girls to take a pin from their bodice,
+and throw it into a sacred well, to ascertain, by its
+manner of sinking, when they would be married.
+If the pin falls head foremost, then there is no
+present hope of matrimony, but if the point goes
+first, it is a sure sign of being married that year.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the new year, in some parts of Brittany, pieces
+of bread-and-butter are thrown into the fountains,
+and from the way in which they swim the future is
+foretold. If the buttered side turns under, it forebodes
+death; if two pieces adhere together, it is a
+sign of sickness; and if the piece floats, it is an
+assurance of long life and happiness.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The veneration for springs and healing wells is
+of very ancient date, and was prohibited by early
+councils of the Church; but the worship of that
+element from which suffering humanity seeks for
+relief in all its ailments has passed through succeeding
+creeds, and that which was held sacred a thousand
+years back is still the object of reverence and
+affection.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nor is the sculpture outside the church less remarkable
+than the interior. The west door, now
+fallen to decay, has an arch with double entrance
+separated by a column containing a bénitier. A
+wreath of curled leaves runs round the arch, and on
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page126">[pg 126]</span><a name="Pg126" id="Pg126" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+a bracket of thistle-leaves formerly stood a statue of
+John V.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The north side has little ornament. The great
+richness is in the south, where is the fine porch of
+Bishop Alain de la Rue, who consecrated the building,
+and more splendid still, is, at the angle formed
+by the projecting sacristy facing the west, the Porch
+of the Apostles. The twelve Apostles are ranged on
+each side, under rich canopies; the whole porch one
+mass of floral decoration, vine-leaves and mallows,
+interspersed with dragons, birds, and insects. On
+the right of the porch is a crouching figure with a
+label inscribed: "Bn soiez venz,"—"Bien soiez
+venuz" or "Soyez les bien venus"—an invitation
+to the faithful to enter into the church. On the
+lintel of the two doors are ermines passant, and the
+motto of the Dukes of Brittany, "À ma vie," and
+towards the south are the remains of a whole cornice
+of ermines, running through the rings of a long scroll
+inscribed with "À ma vie." This motto was first
+taken by Duke John IV. (who instituted the order
+of the Ermine) to imply that he had conquered
+Brittany, and would maintain it, even at the cost of
+his life, "à ma vie."<a id="noteref_13" name="noteref_13" href="#note_13"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">13</span></span></a></p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page127">[pg 127]</span><a name="Pg127" id="Pg127" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The collar consisted of a double chain, in each of
+which were four ermines, and two more hung suspended
+from two chains, surmounted by coronets.
+The motto "À ma vie" was placed round each of
+these ten ermines. The Père Lobineau quotes a
+history of Duke John, in which the order is thus
+spoken of:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Lors fit mander tous les Prélats,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Abbés et Clercs de tous Estats,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Barons, Chevaliers, Escuyers,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Qui tous portoient nouveaux Colliers</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">De moult bel port et belle guise;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et étoit nouvelle Dévise</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">De deux Rolets brunis et beaux,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Couplés ensemble de deux fermeaux;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et au dessus étoit l'Ermine</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">En figure et en couleur fine,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">En deux Cedules avoit escript</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">À ma vie</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">, comme j'ai dit;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">L'un mot est blanc, l'autre noir,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Il est certain, tien, pour le voir.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the churchyard is a cross erected by Cardinal
+de Coëtivy (died 1474), who is represented kneeling
+at the foot; it is said to be the work of Michel
+Colomb, sculptor of the celebrated monument raised
+by Queen Anne of Brittany to her parents, now
+in the Cathedral at Nantes. Next day, we went
+to Le Conquet, returning by St. Mathieu. We
+crossed the swing-bridge to the suburb Recouvrance,
+so called from the chapel of our Lady, to whom
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page128">[pg 128]</span><a name="Pg128" id="Pg128" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+shipwrecked mariners addressed their petitions to
+recover (recouvrir) their property. On our left we
+saw the islet rock of Bertheaume, about 200 feet
+high, distant from the coast 150. Until lately, the
+communication with the mainland was by means of
+a kind of cradle drawn on two cables, about nine
+mètres in circumference.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Le Conquet<a id="noteref_14" name="noteref_14" href="#note_14"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">14</span></span></a>
+is a little seaport built on the slope
+of a steep hill. Formerly it was of some importance,
+and a great resort of pirates. Sir Walter Manny
+took the town for the Countess of Montfort, during
+the war of the two Jeannes, and it was attacked by
+the fleets of Henry VIII. and his daughter Mary.
+Opposite is a beautiful beach, called the Blancs
+Sablons, accessible at low water by walking across
+the harbour. Here is the point of communication
+with the island of Ouëssant, about seventeen miles
+distant, by means of a steamer, weather permitting,
+as the Chenal du Four, which separates this group
+of islands from the continent, is covered with rocks
+and is very dangerous in rough weather. Its men
+are all seamen or fishermen, the women perform the
+agricultural labour. They bring in their produce
+to Brest at the monthly fairs, and are not so cut off
+from the world as Gresset describes them:—</p>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page129">[pg 129]</span><a name="Pg129" id="Pg129" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Sous un ciel toujours rigoureux</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Au sein des flots impétueux,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Non loin de l'Armorique plage</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Habitacle marécageux,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Moitié peuplé, moitié sauvage,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Dont les habitants malheureux</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Separés du reste du monde,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Semblent ne connoître l'onde</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et n'être connus que des cieux.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Gresset.</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-title" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Carême impromptu.</span></span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image25.jpg" width="587" height="354" alt="" title="25. Abbey of St. Mathieu." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We now reached the Abbey of St. Mathieu,
+situated on the extreme point of Brittany and of
+France, on the top of a promontory, well called
+Finistère. Here in the sixth century was built a
+monastery in honour of St. Matthew the Evangelist,
+whose head had been stolen in Egypt by some
+Breton navigators, and been brought to land at this
+point, which long bore the name of "St. Mathieu
+de fin de terre" (Finistère). In the twelfth century
+the monastery was converted into a Benedictine
+abbey, which is a beautiful example of the Early
+English style. The formidable rocks at its feet are
+called Les Moines. The monks of St. Mathieu
+kept a beacon for the safety of mariners on these
+dangerous shores. The modern lighthouse quite
+masks the sight of the abbey, and is a great disfigurement
+to the view, which, in other respects, is most
+grand; the imposing granite ruins of the abbey
+church on the very edge of these weather-beaten
+cliffs, worn and torn by the ocean with its unwearied
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page130">[pg 130]</span><a name="Pg130" id="Pg130" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+waves; on the right, the reefs of the Passage du
+Four, which appear to unite the islands of Ouëssant
+and its satellites to St. Mathieu; on the left the
+elongated point of the Bec du Raz, which no one,
+according to the Bretons, ever passed without grief
+and suffering. In sight of Saint Mathieu, the
+English in 1504, with eighty ships, attacked Hervé
+de Porzmoguer, a Breton captain, with only twenty.
+His own ship the 'Cordelière,' which had been built
+and fitted out by Anne of Bretagne, at her own
+expense, took fire; it held 1200 troops besides the
+ship's company. Porzmoguer grappled the 'Cordelière'
+to the ship of the English admiral, the 'Great
+Harry;' and both vessels, driven by the north-west
+wind to the entrance of the Goulet, were burned
+together, and above 2000 men perished in the two
+ships. Porzmoguer mounted the mast followed by
+the raging flames, and cast himself from the main-top,
+in full armour, into the sea.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In 1597, the fleet sent by Philip II. to take possession
+of Brittany for Spain was dispersed in a storm
+off Point St. Mathieu, and, out of a hundred and
+twenty ships, scarcely one remained.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our way home, we passed a little town called
+La Trinité, from three springs all issuing from the
+same fountain, at which washerwomen with their
+wooden bats were hard at work, beating the clothes
+to rags on the stones.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page131">[pg 131]</span><a name="Pg131" id="Pg131" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page132">[pg 132]</span><a name="Pg132" id="Pg132" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page133">[pg 133]</span><a name="Pg133" id="Pg133" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image26.jpg" width="354" height="533" alt="" title="26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day was the monthly fair at Brest, which
+brought in many of the country people in their
+picturesque costumes. Most conspicuous among
+them were the peasants of Ouëssant, last type of the
+Celtic women, in their singularly Italian-looking
+head-dress, their hair streaming over their shoulders;
+and the Plougastel men, in red caps, with coats and
+trowsers of white flannel.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Most of the market-women were furnished with
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page134">[pg 134]</span><a name="Pg134" id="Pg134" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+enormous umbrellas, red, blue, and green. In this
+rainy province, they are indispensable, and the acquisition
+of an umbrella is a great object of ambition
+to the Breton peasant.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left Brest by the steamer for Pont Launay
+and Châteaulin, a four hours' sail in the harbour of
+Brest. On the right we passed the Point des Espagnols,
+where Frobisher, sent by Queen Elizabeth to
+the assistance of Henry IV., received his death wound.
+Leaving on our left Plougastel, where we were unable
+to visit the celebrated calvary, we passed near the
+"Anse du Fret," whence Joan of Navarre, then
+widow of Duke John IV., sailed to England to
+marry Henry of Lancaster, 1403. Henry, when
+Earl of Derby, had visited Nantes to ask the assistance
+of his uncle in returning to England, and Joan
+had favoured his expedition, but Duke John died
+the same year (1399). When Queen Dowager of
+England, she saw the children of her two husbands
+arrayed against each other, and her son Arthur, who
+had been invested by King Henry IV. with the
+Earldom of Richmond, made prisoner at Agincourt
+by his half-brother King Henry V., who confined
+him in the Tower, and afterwards in Fotheringay
+Castle. Joan received hard treatment from her
+stepson. Accused of being a sorceress—a reputation
+she inherited from her father, Charles the Bad of
+Navarre—Henry caused her to be confined in
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page135">[pg 135]</span><a name="Pg135" id="Pg135" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Leeds and Pevensey castles, and deprived her of
+her property. It was only on his approaching
+death that he restored her to liberty. She retired
+to Havering Bower in Essex, where her grandson,
+the unfortunate Gilles de Bretagne, was reared
+and educated with Henry VI. She died in 1437,
+and the memory of "Joan the witch queen" was
+long held in awe by the people of Havering Bower.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image27.jpg" width="359" height="529" alt="" title="27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the left is the hamlet of Kersanton, which
+gives its name to the stone so called. At the entrance
+of the Aulne,<a id="noteref_15" name="noteref_15" href="#note_15"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">15</span></span></a> to the right, we passed the ruins of the
+abbey of Landévenec, the most ancient monastic
+establishment in Brittany. At Pont Launay an omnibus
+took us to the railway station at Châteaulin,
+celebrated for its slate quarries, a drive of three
+quarters of an hour. From here we proceeded by
+rail to Quimper, capital of Cornouaille. The district
+of Cornouaille—Cornu-Galliæ, expressing its position
+at the horn or extremity of France—is most varied in
+character. The part on the north is enclosed between
+the two chains of mountains, which, running nearly
+parallel with each other, traverse the department
+of Finistère, the Mené-Arré, and the Montagnes
+Noires. A single chain passes through the Côtes-du-Nord,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page136">[pg 136]</span><a name="Pg136" id="Pg136" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and forks off, at the edge of the department,
+near Callac, whence the northern range, the
+Mené-Arré, runs westwards to Faou harbour; while
+the Montagnes Noires incline to the south-west, and
+reach the sea near Crozon. The country between
+these chains is dreary and bare—barren plains and
+black mountains; to the south it is cultivated and
+productive. The stormy rock-bound coast is wild
+and desolate. One-third of the department consists
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page137">[pg 137]</span><a name="Pg137" id="Pg137" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of landes, marshes, and sandy shores (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">grèves</span></span>).
+The people are the Irish of Brittany. Their wants
+are restricted to a tub of salted pork and a provision
+of cider, with rye, or black corn, to make their
+"galette." They are simple in their manners, kind
+to the poor, and enduring of suffering. Respect
+for the misfortunes of others, and patience under
+their own, is one of the Breton characteristics.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the days of Conan Meriadec there lived a holy
+man, called Corentin, who retired to a solitude for
+prayer and meditation, near a fountain in a forest.
+Every morning a little fish came to him from the
+fountain; he cut a piece off it for his daily pittance
+and threw it again into the water, and in an instant
+the fish became whole. The miracle was repeated
+every morning. One day King Gradlon, who held
+his court at "Kemper," was in the forest near the
+hermitage of St. Corentin, with some of his suite, and
+asked him if he could give him something to eat.
+The saint immediately ran to his fountain and called
+his little fish, cut off a piece, which he gave to the
+maître d'hôtel to prepare for the king and his attendants.
+The chef laughed when he took the slice;
+but, to the surprise of everybody, the fish multiplied
+so as to completely satisfy the hunger of the king
+and his party. Gradlon threw himself on his knees
+at the feet of St. Corentin, and gave him the forest,
+with a "maison de plaisance," which St. Corentin
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page138">[pg 138]</span><a name="Pg138" id="Pg138" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+converted into a monastery. The king afterwards
+erected Quimper into a bishopric, to which he nominated
+St. Corentin:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Voici dans le fond la ville de Kemper,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Asise au confluent de l'Oded et du Ster.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Comme sa cathédrale, aux deux tours dentelées,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">S'élève noblement du milieu des vallées,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">O perle de l'Oded, fille du roi Grallon,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Qui de saint Corentin portes aussi le nom,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Rejouis-toi, Kemper, dans tes vielles murailles!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Vois avec quelle ardeur, ô reine de Cornouailles,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Tes fils de tous les points de l'antique évêché,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Pêcheurs et montagnards, viennent à ton marché!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Cornouillais! en passant près de sa basilique,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Du bon saint Corentin adorez la relique.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Que tous ceux d'Elliant et des mêmes chemins</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Boivent à sa fontaine et s'y lavent les mains;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Non pas les Léonards, eux de qui les ancêtres,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Voici quelque mille ans, hommes jaloux et traîtres,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Volèrent le poisson dont notre Corentin</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Coupait pour se nourrir un pen chaque matin,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et qui chaque matin, ô pieuse merveille!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Nageait dans sa fontaine aussi frais que la veille:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Eh bien! les Léonards volèrent ce poisson,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mais Kemper n'oublie jamais leur trahison;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Sans jouir de leur crime, ils en portent la peine,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et toujours le poisson nage dans la fontaine.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-title" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Les Bretons</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Brizeux</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Quimper, or Quimper-Corentin, is prettily situated
+at the junction of the rivers Odet and Stheire; its
+Breton name, Kemper, signifying confluence. It was
+long called Kemper-Odet. On the opposite side of
+the river the hills, consisting of a mass of rocks,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page139">[pg 139]</span><a name="Pg139" id="Pg139" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+covered with trees, rise to some height, and are
+ascended by well-kept walks. The river runs straight
+through the town, like a canal, edged by stone quays
+and crossed by iron bridges, with avenues of trees on
+each side. Trout can be seen in the sparkling stream;
+and we watched a boy with a hook at the end of a
+reel of black silk, hanging over the bridge, with a
+piece of kneaded bread for bait. With this simple
+tackle he contrived to hook a trout of tolerable size,
+and let it run out the length of his silk line till he
+had tired it out and landed it. The scenery of the
+river below Quimper, flowing through a bed of
+granite blocks, is, we were told, lovely, but we had
+no time to visit it further down. The view from the
+top of the wood-covered heights on the opposite
+side is very extensive, looking down upon the town,
+with its cathedral towers rising above, the promenade,
+and the course of the river. At the end of the town
+there is a manufactory of coarse pottery; but formerly
+it produced ware of a finer quality.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The beautiful cathedral is the largest of the four
+episcopal churches of Lower Brittany (Vannes, St.
+Pol, Quimper, and Tréguier), and was principally
+built in the fifteenth century. On the platform over
+the finely sculptured porch, rich in foliage like the
+Folgoët, placed between the two towers, is the equestrian
+statue of King Gradlon, to whom is attributed
+the introduction of the vine into Brittany. The statue
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page140">[pg 140]</span><a name="Pg140" id="Pg140" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+was decapitated in 1793, but restored ten years back.
+On St. Cecilia's day companies of musicians used to
+mount on the platform. While they sang a hymn
+in praise of King Gradlon, one of the choristers,
+provided with a flagon of wine, a napkin, and golden
+hanap, mounted on the crupper of King Gradlon's
+horse, poured out a cup of wine, which he offered
+ceremoniously to the lips of the statue and then
+drank himself, carefully wiped with his napkin the
+moustachios of the king, placed a branch of laurel
+in his hand, and then threw down the hanap in the
+midst of the crowd below, in honour of the first
+planter of the grape in Brittany. To whoever caught
+the cup before it fell, and presented it uninjured
+to the Chapter, was adjudged a prize of two hundred
+crowns.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The two spires of the cathedral are modern, and
+were built by an annual subscription of a sou for
+five years, called the "sou du St. Corentin:" more
+than 600<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">l.</span></span> was thus raised. They have only been
+lately finished.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image28.jpg" width="341" height="546" alt="" title="28. Beggar. Quimper." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">28. Beggar. Quimper.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The men about Quimper all wear the national
+costume—enormous bragou-bras, or breeches of a
+kind of white sail-cloth, a broad-brimmed felt hat,
+long hair, falling over the shoulders, wooden shoes,
+and a broad belt with metal buckle. Their woollen
+jacket and waistcoat are edged with gay colours, and
+have sometimes the itinerant tailor's name and the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page141">[pg 141]</span><a name="Pg141" id="Pg141" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+date of the making of the garment, embroidered in
+wool upon the breast. On gala days brown or blue
+cloth bragous are worn, tied with coloured ribbons
+at the knees, black leather gaiters with buttons, and
+the sabots are replaced by leather shoes and costly
+silver buckles. The national costume is more preserved
+in Cornouaille than in the other parts of
+Brittany.  The pen bas or cudgel, with a large
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page142">[pg 142]</span><a name="Pg142" id="Pg142" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+knob, like the Irish shillelah, is always ready at
+hand:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Comme une conque immense ouverte au bord des eaux,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">En Cornouaille est un port, il y vient cent bateaux.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Un sable jaune et fin couvre ses côtes plates,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mais un infect amas de rogues, de morgates,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">D'ossements de poissons sur le rivage épars,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">La saumure qui filtre entre ses deux remparts,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Soulèvent tous les sens quand cette odeur saline</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Arrive au voyageur qui tourne la colline,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Laissant derrière lui les taillis de Melven,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">La belle lande d'or qui parfume Aven,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et ces mouvants aspects de plaines, de montagnes</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Que déroulent sans fin nos sauvages campagnes.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Plus de batteurs de seigle ici, plus de faucheurs,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mais des canots chargés de mousses, de pêcheurs,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Partant et revenant avec chaque marée,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et sur les quais du pont versant à leur rentrée,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Des sardines en tas, des congres, des merlus,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Des homards cuirassés, de gros crabes velus;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et, du fond des paniers, mille genres énormes,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">De toutes les couleurs et de toutes les formes,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Avec leur œil vitreux et leur museau béant,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Tous enfants monstrueux du grand monstre Océan.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Aussitôt le pressier les sèche, les empile,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et quand leur grasse chair a degorgé son huile,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">De Nantes à Morlaix cherchant les acheteurs,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">On voit bondir sur mer les hardis caboteurs."</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-title" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Les Bretons</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Brizeux</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image29.jpg" width="558" height="468" alt="" title="29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Thus the Breton poet describes Concarneau, a
+little fortified town, which has been called the St.
+Malo of Cornouaille, and is celebrated for its sardine
+fishery. The road lay through a wooded country,
+with steep hills and valleys, intersected by streams:
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page143">[pg 143]</span><a name="Pg143" id="Pg143" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+on the right a view of the Bay of La Forêt, where
+extensive oyster-culture is going on. After a tedious
+journey with miserable horses, we reached Concarneau
+at nine, a distance of little more than thirteen
+miles, having set off a few minutes after four. Concarneau
+proper is on a rocky island, surrounded by
+fortifications, with eight or nine towers and thick
+walls, and communicating with the mainland by
+means of a drawbridge. This is called the "Ville
+Close." It consists of only one street. When Duke
+John IV. embarked from here for England, he left
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page144">[pg 144]</span><a name="Pg144" id="Pg144" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Sir Robert Knollys governor of the duchy. The
+constable Du Guesclin, after the surrender of Hennebont
+and Quimperlé, took Concarneau by storm
+and slew all the English garrison, except the captain,
+who received quarter.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Opposite the island is the faubourg Sainte Croix,
+which is more populous than the Ville Close, and
+where all the business of the place is carried on.
+The sardine fishery, from June to November, occupies
+two-thirds of the population. From three to
+four hundred vessels are employed with five men
+to each boat. Calm weather is most favourable for
+fishing. The sardines are taken in large seine nets,
+one side floating with corks on the surface of the
+water, the other falling vertically. The sardines,
+attracted by the bait, try to force themselves through
+the meshes of the net, and are caught by their gills.
+The bait used is called "rogue:" the best is composed
+of the roe of the cod-fish, pounded and steeped
+in salt water for several days; sometimes the roe and
+flesh of the <span class="tei tei-corr">mackerel</span> is used. Rogue is made in
+Norway and Denmark, but principally at Drontheim,
+and is very expensive, costing about sixpence the lb.;
+hence an inferior bait is substituted, composed of
+shrimps and other small crustacea, with fish salted,
+and the heads of anchovies, all pounded and putrified
+together. But this kind of decomposed bait is forbidden
+by the fishery laws. The employment of it
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page145">[pg 145]</span><a name="Pg145" id="Pg145" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+accounts for the rareness of good sardines, as the
+remaining of such a substance in the body of the
+animal cannot fail of corrupting it. It is a pretty
+sight to behold the little fleet employed in the sardine
+fishery return in the evening, laden with the
+results of the day's work. The fish, when landed,
+are counted out into baskets, shaken in the water,
+and taken up to one of the curing-houses: of these
+there are about sixty in Concarneau. In the first
+shed we saw above fifty women employed in taking
+off their heads—"detêter" it is called—an operation
+they effect with great dexterity. With one cut at
+the back of the neck the head is separated and the
+fish "éventré" at the same time.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The sardines are next placed in little wire trays,
+with divisions like a double gridiron, and fried or
+dipped in boiling oil, an operation principally performed
+by the women of Pont l'Abbé, who are
+supposed, like the Germans of our baking and
+sugar-refining houses, to be peculiarly constituted
+to resist heat. The gridirons are then hung up to
+drain. The sardines are next packed in tin boxes,
+cold oil poured over them, and the boxes soldered
+down. From 800 to 900 boxes are placed in a
+boiler and boiled for half an hour to test the boxes,
+and those which leak are put aside. They are of
+English tin, and the making of them is the winter's
+occupation. Finally, the boxes are stamped with
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page146">[pg 146]</span><a name="Pg146" id="Pg146" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the name of the establishment, and packed in deal
+cases for exportation. The sardine is a very delicate
+fish, and easily decays. It is only taken out of the
+net with a rake (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">raquette</span></span>); in summer, numbers
+are spoiled from being heaped in the boats, and
+at whatever hour the boats come in the fish go
+through the whole process of curing, as they will
+not keep till the next day. Concarneau exports
+from 15,000 to 20,000 barrels of sardines annually.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page147">[pg 147]</span><a name="Pg147" id="Pg147" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Only a part are "anchoitée," that is, preserved like
+the anchovies of the Mediterranean, the others are
+salted in casks; and quantities, only slightly salted,
+are packed in baskets, to be sent to the provincial
+markets. It is estimated that twelve hundred
+million fish have been caught this year. The sardine
+fishery extends along the whole western coast
+of Brittany from Douarnenez to the Loire.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">One of the curiosities of Concarneau is its aquarium,
+under the direction of M. Guillon. It consists
+of six cisterns, made by the blasting of the solid
+rock, and comprising an area of large extent, within
+a walled enclosure. In these cisterns the water is
+renewed at each turn of the tide through narrow
+openings in the wall. Three of these reservoirs are
+reserved for fish, the others for crustacea—lobsters
+and langoustes. Of these they keep from 10,000 to
+15,000 at a time, and send them off daily, when
+fattened, to Paris and the principal markets of
+France. It was curious to see the dread shown by
+the common lobster to the langouste. They all
+were adhering to the sides of the reservoirs as if
+afraid to encounter their more powerful companions.
+Quantities of turbot, also reared for sale, were in
+one of the cisterns, darting with the greatest rapidity
+in the water when the keeper threw in pieces of
+sardines for them to eat. At the end of these
+cisterns is a building, with every arrangement for
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page148">[pg 148]</span><a name="Pg148" id="Pg148" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the culture of fishes—rows of little troughs, and
+other vessels, to contain them. Many of the fish
+are so tame, they came immediately to the keeper
+on his making a noise in the water with his fingers.
+Here are fish of every description, and naturalists
+have every facility of studying their habits. Among
+others, we saw the graceful little sea-horse or hippocampus,
+a native of the seas of Brittany as well as of
+the Mediterranean.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image30.jpg" width="555" height="528" alt="" title="30. Dolmen. Trégunc." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">30. Dolmen. Trégunc.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Concarneau to Quimperlé is a distance of
+above eighteen miles. The road runs near the sea,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page149">[pg 149]</span><a name="Pg149" id="Pg149" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+over a large tract of land covered with furze (ajonc),
+which, in Brittany, grows from five to six feet high,
+forming a solid impenetrable mass. Huge blocks of
+granite are scattered about in every direction, jutting
+ out from among the furze—menhirs, cromlechs,
+and dolmens—a perfect wilderness of Celtic remains.
+We drove over an extent of several miles of furze-covered
+hills and heathy land. Before we reached
+the village of Trégunc we stopped to see a large dolmen
+on the side of the road, and further to the right
+a rocking-stone, twelve feet long and nine feet thick,
+standing about fifteen feet from the ground, the
+second largest in Brittany. It is poised by a little projection,
+like an inverted cone, upon another rock lying
+half-buried in the ground. The upper block can
+easily be set in motion by the hand. It is called by
+the country people "La pierre aux maris trompés,"
+and was formerly consulted by husbands to test the
+fidelity of their wives. Even now the partner of a
+faithless wife is said to be incapable of giving to the
+stone the rocking motion it so easily receives from
+another.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image31.jpg" width="546" height="457" alt="" title="31. Rocking Stone. Trégunc." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">31. Rocking Stone. Trégunc.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the left we passed the majestic ruins of the
+castle of Rustéphan, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">i. e.</span></span> Run, mound, of Stephen,
+having been built by Stephen Count of Penthièvre
+at the beginning of the twelfth century. It belonged
+in the thirteenth to Blanche of Castile, the mother
+of St. Louis. The present edifice dates from the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page150">[pg 150]</span><a name="Pg150" id="Pg150" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+fifteenth. One of the sides remaining has a cylindrical
+tower with pinnacled doorway, and the windows
+have stone mullions.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image32.jpg" width="563" height="413" alt="" title="32. Château of Rustéphan." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">32. Château of Rustéphan.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Pursuing our road through blocks of granite, we
+descended into the valley of Pontaven, the town of
+millers, according to the old saying—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Pont Aven, ville de renom;</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Quatorze moulins, deux maisons;</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">a little port built upon rocks, at the foot of two
+elevated mountains, over which are scattered masses
+of granite boulders, obstructing the course of the
+river which bounds over them. The banks are
+lined with woody slopes; wooden bridges cross the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page151">[pg 151]</span><a name="Pg151" id="Pg151" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+river at intervals; mills are established on the ledges
+of the rocks on its sides; and the noise of the mills,
+with that of the sparkling river tumbling through
+the rocks in waterfalls, keep up a perpetual din.
+Pontaven is celebrated for the quantity of its salmon:
+so much is taken, that it used to be said that the
+millers fattened their pigs upon this fish, which was
+literally true, as they took the small salmon, called
+glésils, in nets (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">poches</span></span>) for that purpose. Salmon now
+is very dear. At the mouth of the Pontaven river
+was a castle, whose proprietor had the privilege of
+firing upon the fishing-boats which returned up the
+river without giving to the castellan their finest
+fish, which his steward went down to select. Pontaven
+is seven and a half miles from Bannalec, the
+nearest railway station. After remaining a few hours
+we drove on to Quimperlé—in Breton, Kemper
+(confluence) Ellé—so called, because it is at the
+confluence of two rivers, the Elle and Isole:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Vous reverrai-je encore, ô fleuve de l'Ellé,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Vous, Izôle, où mon cœur est toujours rappellé!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Les eaux sombres de l'Ellé, claire ceux de l'Izôle;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">De ces bords enchantés je dirais chaque saule.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Brizeux.</span></span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Quimperlé is a great resort for fishing, the Quimperlé
+salmon and trout being renowned throughout
+Brittany, and even at Paris. This town is beautifully
+situated, surrounded by high hills, in a valley, watered
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page152">[pg 152]</span><a name="Pg152" id="Pg152" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+by these bright rivers, the hills covered with gardens,
+orchards, the Ursuline, Capucine, and other convents,
+and crowned by the steeples of the Gothic
+church of St. Michael. Its principal building is the
+church of St. Croix, formerly that of a Benedictine
+abbey, celebrated for its riches. The island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer
+then belonged to it. It is a most singular
+edifice, built in the eleventh century, after the model
+of the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.
+In 1862 it fell down, but is at present in course of
+restoration, after its original plan. The old abbey
+buildings are now occupied by the Prefecture. We
+were given permission to pass through the convent
+garden—the workmen and building materials having
+blocked up the other entrances—to see the crypt in
+which is the tomb of Saint Gurloës, first abbot of
+Quimperlé. His effigy, with crosier in hand, his
+feet resting on a dragon, lies upon a monument,
+about three feet high, with an opening in the lower
+part. The saint—Saint Urlose, as the Bretons call
+him—is invoked principally for the gout, and persons
+so afflicted crawl through the hole under the tomb,
+where, suspended by chains, is an iron hook. They
+twist a lock of their hair round this hook, and tear it
+off with violence, hoping to propitiate the saint by
+this mortification—evidently a remnant of heathen
+times, when hair was sacrificed to deities or to the
+memory of departed friends.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page153">[pg 153]</span><a name="Pg153" id="Pg153" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Quimperlé was buried John de Montfort, rival
+of Charles of Blois for the ducal crown. Sent to
+Paris under a safe-conduct by the Dauphin John,
+Philip of Valois had him shut up in the Louvre,
+whence he escaped, after a captivity of three years,
+to England. Edward III. espoused his cause and
+granted him some troops. After an unsuccessful
+attack upon Quimper, De Montfort died (1345) at
+Hennebont, and was buried in the church of the Dominicans
+at Quimperlé. He appointed Edward III.
+guardian of his son, and Edward immediately occupied
+Quimperlé and caused money to be struck in
+his name. Lord Lewis of Spain, on the side of
+Charles of Blois, made a descent upon Quimperlé
+at the head of 6000 men, and pillaged the whole
+country. On the news reaching Sir Walter Manny,
+he hastened to meet the enemy, took possession of
+their fleet, and made such carnage of the soldiers,
+that they were all killed or taken prisoners, and
+Lewis of Spain escaped with difficulty. The country
+about Quimperlé is beautiful—wood and water in
+every direction. The department of Finistère is
+traversed by three hundred streams, and has an
+extent of nearly four hundred miles of coast. We
+were advised to go and see the rood-screen of the
+chapel of Rosgrand, but had no time. We visited
+the ruins of the church of St. Columban. Above
+a round-arched doorway is a beautiful flamboyant
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page154">[pg 154]</span><a name="Pg154" id="Pg154" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+window, between two canopied niches. We next
+walked up to the Place near St. Michel, where a
+cattle-market was being held. The Breton peasants,
+with their long shaggy uncombed hair hanging
+round their shoulders—they comb and wash only
+on fête days—their dirty canvas bragou bras, patched
+coats, and sabots with tufts of straw crammed in,
+looked more dirty than it is possible to imagine.
+Cleanliness is the last of the Breton virtues. The
+market and the fair are the two great events of the
+country, and people flock from great distances to
+sell their merchandise. But of all extraordinary
+animals is the Breton pig, as tall as a donkey; a lean,
+long-necked, ragged, bristly, savage-looking beast,
+as ill kept as its master, and it runs like a greyhound
+when approached. The Breton cow is very small,
+small as the Kerry cows of Ireland, very pretty and
+very productive. The Breton butter is proverbially
+good, and is given out most liberally, in lumps as
+big as loaves, at the tables-d'hôte. It is brought to
+market in jars which the women carry upon their
+heads. It is to the Queen-Duchess that Brittany,
+and indeed all France, owes the privilege of eating
+butter in Lent.  It was forbidden as animal food
+by the laws of the Church, and oil, a vegetable
+production, ordered as a substitute.  In 1491,
+Anne solicited of Rome, for herself and household,
+permission to eat butter on fast-days, alleging,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page155">[pg 155]</span><a name="Pg155" id="Pg155" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+as a plea, that Brittany did not produce oil. Encouraged
+by this favour, Brittany obtained the same
+indulgence, and it was acquired successively by the
+other provinces of France; but all are originally
+indebted for the privilege to the good Queen-Duchess
+Anne.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day, leaving the department of Finistère, we
+entered that of Morbihan, and went by rail to Lorient
+on the river Scorff, here joined by the Blavet. It
+was formerly the seat of the French East India
+Company; it is now one of the five military ports
+of France and the residence of a maritime Prefect.
+In the Place Bisson is the statue of a young officer
+of the French navy, a native of Guemené-sur-Scorff
+(Morbihan). When commanding, in 1827, a brig
+in the Greek Archipelago, he was attacked by two
+pirate vessels. Nine out of his fifteen men were
+killed and himself wounded; the enemy crowded on
+the deck. Desiring the survivors of his crew to
+jump overboard, "Now," cried he to the pilot, "is
+the moment for revenge!" and, setting fire to the
+powder-magazine, he blew up himself, his ship, and
+the pirates who had boarded her. Next morning
+the bodies of seventy Greeks lay on the sea-shore,
+showing the success of his self-devotion. The pilot,
+who, with four sailors, was saved, received the decoration
+of the Legion of Honour. On the pedestal
+of Bisson's statue is an inscription, concluding with
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page156">[pg 156]</span><a name="Pg156" id="Pg156" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+these words: "Mort en héros, pour son roi et sa
+patrie, ses amis le pleurent, la France le regrette, et
+ses frères d'armes envient son sort."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From here we proceeded to Hennebont (Breton,
+"old bridge"), famous, in the War of Succession, for
+its heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, during the
+captivity of her husband, Jean de Montfort, who had
+been taken prisoner at Nantes and carried off to
+Paris. Jeanne, who, as Froissart says, had the courage
+of a man and the heart of a lion, placed herself
+at the head of his party. Like another Maria Theresa,
+she presented herself before the Breton lords, with
+her infant son in her arms, and received their oaths
+of allegiance. She then joined in the defence of
+Hennebont, which was invested by Charles of Blois.
+Clothed in armour and mounted on a war-horse, she
+galloped up and down the streets, encouraging the
+inhabitants. She ordered the ladies of her suite and
+other women of the place to cut short their "keytels,"
+carry the stones to the ramparts, and transport pots
+of quick-lime to throw down upon the enemy.
+At the head of 300 horsemen, the Countess, who
+rode better than any squire, sallied out of the town,
+attacked and burnt the enemy's camp, retreated to
+Auray, and, a few days after, re-entered Hennebont,
+with banners flying and trumpets sounding. But
+the blockade was so close that provisions were
+wanting, and the garrison compelled her to agree to
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page157">[pg 157]</span><a name="Pg157" id="Pg157" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+a capitulation, unless within three days assistance
+arrived from England. The time was on the point
+of expiring, and a herald had approached the gate of
+the city to receive the keys in the name of Charles
+of Blois, when the Countess, from her window, perceived
+at sunrise the English fleet entering the port
+in full sail. She exclaimed, "We are saved!" The
+siege was raised, and the Countess, says Froissart,
+kissed Sir Walter Manny and all his companions,
+one after the other, two or three times, like a noble
+and valiant dame. "Better," observed Charles, when
+he heard the news, "that Jeanne, instead of her
+lord, had been shut up in the Louvre." He left the
+carrying on of the siege to Lewis of Spain, and proceeded
+to Vannes and Auray. Some fragments of
+walls are all that remain of Jeanne de Montfort's
+castle, which was situated on a height on the other
+side of the river in the "Vieille ville." The town on
+the left bank of the Blavet is called the "Ville neuve"
+and the "Ville close," being surrounded by walls.
+Large vessels ascend the Blavet to Hennebont. It
+is traversed by a light and elegant railway viaduct
+of twelve arches. We saw on the quay a quantity of
+red iron-ore from Bilbao.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Hennebont is a very pretty town; the principal
+building is the church of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, of
+the sixteenth century, with a fine square stone tower,
+surmounted by a beautiful spire, and a tall porch,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page158">[pg 158]</span><a name="Pg158" id="Pg158" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+forming one side of the tower. This handsome
+church has lately been restored. The scenery about
+the Blavet is very pretty—the banks wooded, and
+fertile fields. We took a boat and rowed up the
+river, passing the ruined Abbaye de la Joie, where a
+hideous château has been built. This was a Cistercian
+convent, founded in the thirteenth century by
+Blanche of Navarre, wife of Duke John I. (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">le Roux</span></span>).
+The chapel of Notre Dame-de-Paradis formerly belonged
+to the convent; but when the parish church
+was demolished, the Abbey ceded this chapel to the
+town, reserving the privilege of a separate seat for
+the Abbess, who, on the Sunday after St. John's day,
+had her crosier carried before her in state by one of
+her vassals at high mass and vespers.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Hennebont we went by rail to Auray, and
+established ourselves for some time in the Pavillon
+d'en Haut, a most comfortable hotel. Auray is
+situated on the slope of a hill, the streets narrow
+and steep.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our first drive was to Ste. Anne d'Auray, one of
+the most famous places of pilgrimage in Brittany,
+on account of its miraculous well and church. It
+has been called the Mecca of Brittany. Here,
+according to the legend in the seventeenth century,
+Ste. Anne appeared to a countryman, and directed
+him to dig in a certain field, where he would find
+her image, and to build a chapel there. Guided by
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page159">[pg 159]</span><a name="Pg159" id="Pg159" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+a miraculous light, Nicolazic discovered the statue,
+and erected a chapel on the site.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image33.jpg" width="553" height="351" alt="" title="33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The spring where Ste. Anne first appeared is now
+enclosed in a large basin of cut stone. Near it is the
+church, in course of reconstruction. It stands in a
+court surrounded by covered galleries for the shelter
+of the pilgrims. Two flights of steps, called the
+Scala Sancta (after that of St. John Lateran), lead
+to a platform over the three entrance gates, upon
+which is an altar surmounted by a cupola, where
+mass can be heard by 20,000 persons. The steps
+are ascended by the pilgrims barefooted, as they do
+at Rome. The fête of Ste. Anne is celebrated on
+the 26th of July, when pilgrims arrive from all
+parts of Brittany to visit the miraculous statue, to
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page160">[pg 160]</span><a name="Pg160" id="Pg160" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+ascend the holy staircase, and to drink or wash in
+the sacred fountain. It was a fête day when we
+visited Ste. Anne. There was a large assemblage of
+people, and booths were erected round the court,
+where were sold rosaries and the wire brooches, with
+scarlet and blue tufts of worsted, called <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">épinglettes</span></span>,
+worn by the Bretons in their hats as a token of their
+having made a pilgrimage. We saw exhibited the
+photograph of a young lady, said to have lately
+recovered from paralysis after bathing in the holy
+well. So world-wide is the fame of Ste. Anne
+d'Auray that a traveller mentions having seen at
+her shrine an embroidered altar-cloth of Irish
+damask, with "Irlande: Reconnaissance à Sainte
+Anne, 1850," woven into the pattern. The convent,
+with its enclosure, the Scala Sancta, fountain, and
+miraculous bush, all date from the seventeenth
+century. There is a railway station for Ste. Anne,
+within two miles of the church.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Returning to Auray, we went to the Chartreuse,
+which owes its origin to the chapel of Saint Michel-du-Champ
+founded (1382) by John de Montfort,
+afterwards Duke John IV., on the spot where, in
+1364, he gained the battle of Auray, which obtained
+for him the duchy of Brittany. The chapel is close
+to the railway station. In the fifteenth century
+it was given to the Chartreux, and became a
+monastery of the order which existed until the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page161">[pg 161]</span><a name="Pg161" id="Pg161" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Revolution. The present church was built at
+the end of the reign of Louis XV.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The battle was fought on the marshy plain by
+the side of the muddy river Alrée. It is fully
+described by Froissart. In the two armies were
+assembled all the chivalry of England, France and
+Brittany. The Breton-English were commanded by
+Sir John Chandos; the French, by Du Guesclin;
+with de Montfort were also Sir Robert Knollys,
+Sir Hugh Calverley and Olivier de Clisson; with
+Charles of Blois, Du Guesclin, the Comte d'Auxerre,
+the Viscomtes of Rohan and Tournemine, and Charles
+de Dinan. At the moment of the battle, the white
+greyhound of Charles of Blois deserted his master
+and ran to his rival de Montfort, who was on
+horseback, and caressed him, standing on his hind
+paws. De Montfort recognised the dog by his
+collar, ornamented with the arms of Brittany, and
+this incident passed through his army as a favourable
+omen. The dog was known to have been the gift
+of a witch to Duke John the Good, who bequeathed
+it to his niece Jeanne, wife of Charles of Blois.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Both armies heard mass, confessed themselves,
+and received the Communion before they opened
+the battle. The war cry of Charles was, "In the
+name of God and St. Ives," Montfort repeated
+the motto of his family, "Malo mori quam fœdari"
+(better to die than be sullied), and his troops
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page162">[pg 162]</span><a name="Pg162" id="Pg162" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+advanced to the onset to the cry of "Malo." Both
+chiefs wore the ermines emblazoned on their armour
+and their standards; and relatives and friends were
+ranged in battle array against each other. Following
+the tactics which had been successful at Cressy and
+Poitiers, Chandos quietly awaited the impetuous
+attack of the Franco-Breton army, which was unable
+to shake their antagonists, who returned the charge.
+The melée was fearful, but the battle was in favour
+of the English. Charles performed prodigies of
+valour. In vain Rohan and Laval rallied round
+him with the flower of the Breton knights; the
+prince was a prisoner, and an English soldier
+despatched him by plunging a dagger into his
+throat. Du Guesclin sustained all the force of the
+fight with his heavy steel mace, his battle-axe and
+his sword; but his mace was broken, the handle
+of his axe carried away, his sword shivered, and he
+had no other weapon left but his gauntlets, and was
+nearly overpowered by numbers, when Chandos,
+who fought with a battle-axe, entreated him to
+surrender, "Messire Bertrand, rendez-vous, cette
+journée n'est pas vôtre; il faut céder à la fortune,
+une autre fois vous serez plus heureux." Convinced
+of the truth of Chandos' words, Du Guesclin
+surrendered to him the handle of his sword. Beaumanoir
+was among the prisoners; and Clisson, who
+never left the field, lost an eye in the conflict.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page163">[pg 163]</span><a name="Pg163" id="Pg163" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A hair shirt was found, with thick knotted cords
+round the waist, upon the body of Charles, for he
+delighted in deeds of mortification. He often used
+to place pebbles in his shoes, and once walked two
+leagues barefoot in the snow to visit the relics of
+St. Ives, in consequence of which he was laid up for
+three months. He was buried at Guingamp, and
+his widow and children desired his canonisation; but
+de Montfort, fearing such a step would render him
+unpopular in Brittany, persuaded Pope Gregory XI.
+to refuse it.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Du Guesclin, after he recovered his liberty, was
+destined, three years later, to be a second time the
+prisoner of the English at Navarrete, when the Black
+Prince replaced on his throne the cruel, perfidious
+Don Pedro. When Sir Hugh Calverley asked for
+the freedom of Du Guesclin, he was met by the
+reply, "Il ne faut pas lâcher ce dogue de Bretagne,
+si fatal aux Anglais." It was represented to the
+Black Prince that report ascribed his detention to
+fear or jealousy; upon which he sent for Du Guesclin,
+who told him he was tired of listening to the
+squeaking of the mice in his prison, and longed to
+hear the nightingales of Brittany. He named his
+own ransom at 100,000 florins, the Black Prince
+reduced it to 60,000; and the Princess of Wales
+contributed 20,000. It was paid by Charles V.
+"Had it been ten millions," says his biographer,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page164">[pg 164]</span><a name="Pg164" id="Pg164" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+"France would have paid it all." In the Musée
+des Archives at Paris is preserved an order of
+Charles V. to his treasurer, to prepare 30,000
+Spanish doublons, to be paid to the Prince of Wales
+for the ransom of Du Guesclin, adding, "il touche
+notre honneur grandement." This is the most
+ancient royal autograph in the collection. Charles
+calls him Bertran de Caclin. The Constable, in a
+deed of gift of the Château of Cachant to the Duke
+of Anjou, signs "Bertrain."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A school for deaf and dumb occupies the Chartreuse,
+directed by the Sœurs de la Sagesse. We
+were shown round by a deaf and dumb guide, who
+made us write on his slate what we could not
+explain on our fingers, and he also wrote his reply.
+He showed us a series of paintings, copies of Le
+Sœur's Life of St. Bruno in the Louvre, which
+are said to have been executed by the monks
+of the Chartreuse. Attached to the church is a
+sepulchral chapel containing the bones of the victims
+of the unfortunate descent on Quiberon, when the
+immense armament of French royalists who were
+landed in British ships, perished. They were commanded
+by d'Hervilly, an old officer of the Constitutional
+Guard of Louis XVI., and he had for
+lieutenant Count Charles de Sombreuil, whose sister
+had rendered the name illustrious by her heroism
+in the Reign of Terror. They landed at Carnac,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page165">[pg 165]</span><a name="Pg165" id="Pg165" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+where Georges Cadoudal and a band of Chouans
+awaited their arrival. Hoche, at the head of a republican
+army, hastened to meet them. Every
+thing depended upon their rapidity of action, but
+three days were lost in disputes about the command
+among the emigrant generals. They took possession
+of the peninsula of Quiberon, a strip of land
+about six miles long by three wide, united to the
+mainland by a narrow tongue of sand a league in
+extent, called the Falaise. Fort Penthièvre, placed
+on the plateau of a steep rock, and bathed on
+each side by the sea between the peninsula and the
+Falaise, defends the approach by land. The emigrant
+army was protected by the English fleet which lay
+in the bay of Quiberon, one of the safest and most
+sheltered on the coast. The defence of Fort Penthièvre
+was entrusted to some republican soldiers
+taken from the English prisons. In a night encounter
+d'Hervilly was killed.  Hoche marched upon
+Fort Penthièvre, which was given up to him by the
+traitor soldiers. La Puisaye threw himself into a
+boat and gained the English fleet. The emigrant
+army was thrown into the greatest disorder; the
+"Bleus," as the republican soldiers were called,
+pressed close upon them, and Sombreuil, driven
+to the water's edge, and deserted by his troops,
+offered to capitulate, on the condition that the lives
+should be spared of all save himself. "Yes," cried
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page166">[pg 166]</span><a name="Pg166" id="Pg166" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the republicans with one voice. They demanded
+that the fire of the English corvette should cease,
+and there being no boat at hand, Gesril du Papeu
+swam to the English ship, and having delivered his
+message, returned and surrendered himself prisoner.
+It is said that Hoche considered the capitulation
+sacred, but Tallien arrived armed with full powers
+from the Convention to treat the emigrants according
+to law. The prisoners had been conducted to
+Auray; Hoche, unwilling to be the witness of acts
+he could not prevent, returned to Brest. Not one
+French officer would consent to be a member of
+the military commission who were to try, or rather
+condemn, the captives. It was composed of Belgians
+and Swiss, and it was difficult to induce the soldiers
+to execute the sentence. Sombreuil and a few others
+were shot at Vannes. The execution of the rest
+took place in a field now called the Champ des
+Martyrs. They were brought out in twenties, and
+placed before a trench, dug beforehand, and shot.
+The massacre lasted three weeks. In all there were
+952 victims. Two chapels have been erected; the
+one attached to the Chartreuse, and the other on
+the Champ des Martyrs. That in the Chartreuse
+has inscribed over the front, in letters of gold,
+"France in tears has raised it." The interior walls
+are overlaid with black and white marble, with two
+marble bas-reliefs by David of Angers: one representing
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page167">[pg 167]</span><a name="Pg167" id="Pg167" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the Duc d'Angoulême praying over the
+bones of the victims in 1814, when they were
+transferred from the Champ des Martyrs to the
+Chartreuse; the other, the laying of the first stone
+of the mausoleum by the Duchesse d'<span class="tei tei-corr">Angoulême</span>
+in 1823. In 1829 the solemn inauguration of the
+expiatory monument took place; and it must have
+been touching to the spectators to have assisted
+at the ceremony with the Duchesse d'<span class="tei tei-corr">Angoulême</span>,
+daughter of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette,
+niece of the martyr saint the Princess Elizabeth,
+and herself long subjected to imprisonment and
+indignities. Only one year after this ceremony she
+again took the road to exile, where she ended her
+troublous life, a pattern of piety and resignation—</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 12.00em"><span class="tei tei-q">“Sa mort fut le soir d'un beau jour.”</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the centre of the mausoleum is the vault containing
+the bones, and over it a sarcophagus on a
+pedestal, upon which are inscribed the names of the
+victims. On the sarcophagus are busts of Sombreuil
+and the other chiefs of the expedition; and a
+profile of Monseigneur d'Hercé, Bishop of Dol, one
+of the victims. Of the bas-reliefs on the mausoleum,
+one represents the heroic act of Gesril du Papeu,
+with the words "I hoped in God, and shall not be
+afraid;" the other, the landing of the emigrants on
+the shore of Carnac, with "All my brothers are
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page168">[pg 168]</span><a name="Pg168" id="Pg168" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+dead for Israel;"—these inscriptions are all in Latin.
+Others are round the monument:—"Unworthily
+slain for God and the King;"—"Precious before
+God is the blood of his saints;"—"For our lives
+and our laws;"—"You will receive a greater glory
+and an eternal name." Our deaf and dumb guide let
+a light down into the vault to show us the bones of
+the victims, collected in one common sepulchre.
+The Chartreuse convent therefore commemorates
+two great tragedies of history: in ancient times the
+battle of Auray, which caused the death of Charles
+of Blois, the captivity of Du Guesclin, and the
+slaughter of the flower of Breton chivalry by the
+swords of their fellow Bretons. In modern days,
+the massacre of the royalists at Quiberon—both the
+horrible consequence of civil war.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We then repaired to the "Champ des Martyrs,"
+where took place the execution of the royalists. At
+the end of an avenue of silver firs is the expiatory
+chapel, with a granite portico, in the Doric style.
+Above is inscribed, "It is here they fell," and "The
+memory of the just shall be eternal."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the tomb is written, "Tombeau des royalistes
+courageux defenseurs de l'autel et du trône, ils tombèrent
+martyrs de leurs nobles efforts. Quel Français
+pénetré des droits de la couronne ignore ce
+qu'il doit à ces illustres morts."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The inn Pavilion d'en Haut is particularly comfortable
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page169">[pg 169]</span><a name="Pg169" id="Pg169" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and reasonable, and the people very obliging.
+Wishing to taste the crêpes we had seen before,
+they procured some, and gave them to us hot—we
+thought they resembled a greasy crumpet.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image34.jpg" width="345" height="543" alt="" title="34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Auray is a good central point for visiting the
+Celtic remains:—menhirs, dolmens, cromlechs, all of
+which are as plentiful here as are calvaries, shrines,
+and churches in Léon. They seem all concentrated
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page170">[pg 170]</span><a name="Pg170" id="Pg170" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+on these dreary wild landes, sometimes covered with
+furze bushes, at others strewn along the coast.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day we drove to Locmariaker, nine miles
+from Auray, through Crach. On the right is the
+river or estuary of that name; over which a bridge is
+contemplated at La Trinité, to communicate with
+Carnac. Locmariaker is at the extremity of the
+peninsula formed by the rivers of Crach and Auray,
+at the entrance of the Morbihan. It must have
+been a place of some importance in the time of the
+Roman occupation of Gaul, as there are the remains
+of a circus, whose walls now enclose the cemetery,
+of a Gallo-Roman house, with baths, frescoed walls,
+and marble pavement. We picked up some fragments
+of Roman bricks which lie strewn upon the
+ground in great abundance. Midst these Roman
+remains are gigantic menhirs, barrows, and dolmens,
+vestiges of a still more ancient race. Locmariaker
+has two large tumuli, both vast tombs.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image35.jpg" width="142" height="349" alt="" title="35. Sculptured Stone. Manné er Hroëck. Locmariaker." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">35. Sculptured Stone. <br />Manné er Hroëck. <br />Locmariaker.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We first visited the Manné-er-Hroëk, the Montagne
+de la Fée, or de la Femme, which bears in the
+marine charts the name of "Butte de César," for
+it was the fashion with antiquaries to attribute to
+Cæsar and the Romans every Celtic monument,
+although bearing no resemblance whatever to any
+work of these conquerors. The Montagne de la
+Fée is a galgal or tumulus of elliptic form, about
+thirty feet high, formed of dry stones.  It was
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page171">[pg 171]</span><a name="Pg171" id="Pg171" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+opened in 1863, and found to contain a sepulchral
+chamber or dolmen, outside of which lay a granite
+stone above three feet long, inscribed with various
+figures, and, in the middle, a cartouche, with
+hatchet-shaped characters. There were also found
+a number of celts (stone hatchets or knives), a green
+jasper necklace, and some glass beads, which have
+been transferred to the museum at
+Vannes.  The guide who furnished
+the light and showed us the grotto
+is the widow of a Polish officer. She
+had a Scotch terrier, which she wanted
+us to accept.  The legend of the
+mound is this:—A widow had the
+misfortune of losing her only solace,
+her son, compelled by law to embark
+for foreign lands. Years rolled by;
+he did not return. All said he was
+lost; but the heart of a mother hopes
+for ever, and the sad Armorican went
+every day to the point of Kerpenhir,
+whence she surveyed the ocean, and searched
+the depths of the horizon with tearful eyes for the
+purple sail<a id="noteref_16" name="noteref_16" href="#note_16"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">16</span></span></a>
+which was to bring joy and peace to her
+dwelling. One day, when she was returning sad as
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page172">[pg 172]</span><a name="Pg172" id="Pg172" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+usual to her desolate home, she was accosted by an
+old woman, who enquired the cause of her troubles;
+and, on hearing them, advised her to heap a pile of
+stones, so that, mounting on the summit, she might
+see to a greater distance, and perhaps discern the
+long looked-for vessel. During the whole night the
+two women worked, and carried in their aprons the
+stones they gathered on the heath. In the morning
+their task was finished, and the Bretonne was scared
+to see the enormous heap that had been piled together;
+but the other quieted her fears, and helped
+her to climb to the top, whence soon the happy
+mother beheld the vessel of her son. The fairy, her
+assistant, had disappeared. This story evidently
+bears a vague tradition of this tumulus having been
+raised by a woman, and of some maritime expedition
+made by him for whom it was probably
+destined. The name of fairy is attached in Brittany
+to everything—mountains, springs, grottoes,
+rocks; every accident in nature is explained by a
+fairy origin.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next object we saw is also attributed to the
+fairies, the great menhir, called Men-er-Groách, or
+stone of the fairies. It is the largest menhir known,
+but it has been broken into three pieces, some say
+by thunder. Put together, it measures about 67
+feet in length, and is 16 feet in diameter. The
+wonder is how it was placed there, for it is little less
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page173">[pg 173]</span><a name="Pg173" id="Pg173" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+than the obelisk of St. Peter's, which took 800 to
+900 men and 70 horses nearly a year to raise,—a
+work which was the great triumph of Fontana the
+engineer. The menhir is estimated to be one-third
+the height of Notre Dame at Paris.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Lying also prostrate on the ground, by the side
+of it, is a smaller menhir, which is, however, above
+30 feet long.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image36.jpg" width="118" height="233" alt="" title="36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture. Dol des Marchands. Locmariaker." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">36. Hatchet-shaped <br />Sculpture. Dol des <br />Marchands. Locmariaker.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Close to these gigantic menhirs is the large dolmen
+(Breton, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">daul</span></span>, table, and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">mœn</span></span>, stone), known
+as the "Table de César," or the "Dol des Marchands."
+We walked under it to see
+the curious hatchet-shaped figure sculptured
+on one of the upper stones. The
+common belief is that these dolmens or
+table-stones were Druidic altars, and the
+guides will show you the furrows for
+the blood of the human sacrifice to run
+down; but human bones having been
+found under some of these dolmens,
+lead one to suppose they were tombs.
+In the Scandinavian countries the peasants
+call them "Giants' Graves."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The other great tumulus of Locmariaker is the
+Mont Heleu or Manné-Lud, also opened in 1863,
+and supposed to have been the sepulchre of a number
+of persons, perhaps of a whole generation. It
+has, like the Montagne de la Feé, a galleried chamber
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page174">[pg 174]</span><a name="Pg174" id="Pg174" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+or dolmen, the floor formed of an enormous
+slab across the centre, on which is a sculpture
+resembling a celt; other sculptured stones were found
+in the same chamber. At the other end of the dolmen
+was an avenue of stones, some supporting the
+skeletons of horses' heads. This tumulus was probably
+the tomb of some great warrior: the horses'
+skeletons were the remains of a sacrifice, and the
+human bones of beings who had been immolated
+to accompany the earthly remains of their great
+chief to another world.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We took a boat for Gavr' Inis, or the Goat
+Island, and embarked on the Morbihan (Breton,
+Little Sea), an inland sea, that gives its name to the
+department. Shut out from the ocean by the two
+peninsulas of Locmariaker and Rhuys, which form
+a narrow gully between the points of Kerpenhir and
+Port Navalo, this sea contains an archipelago of
+islands, numbering, according to tradition, as many
+as the days in the year. Of these, the Ile aux
+Moines is the largest. The arms of the sea forming
+the rivers of Auray and Vannes run into it. The
+navigation of the Morbihan is very dangerous, the
+ocean entering it by this narrow opening in three
+distinct currents; it is an endless labyrinth of rocks
+and water; its granite shores, torn by the sea, are
+indented with creeks, capes, and inlets.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image37.jpg" width="556" height="463" alt="" title="37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+
+
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image3839.jpg" width="542" height="326" alt="" title="Fig. 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">Fig. 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">
+Gavr' Inis is a small island, surmounted by a tumulus,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page175">[pg 175]</span><a name="Pg175" id="Pg175" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+which forms a conspicuous object, seen from all
+the mounds and dolmens around. It is a galgal of
+heaped stones, in the centre of which is a dolmen or
+galleried chamber, which was opened in 1832, and
+is the most curious monument in the Morbihan.
+The gallery, with its square sepulchral chamber at
+the end, is above fifty feet long and about five wide,
+composed of two rows of granite menhirs, or upright
+stones, which form the sides, with horizontal stones
+resting on them, ending in a chamber consisting of
+eight menhirs, with an enormous slab, thirteen feet
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page176">[pg 176]</span><a name="Pg176" id="Pg176" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+long, placed over them horizontally to form the
+roof, and another, nearly as large, to form the floor.
+These stones are of granite, and no cement is used
+to unite them.  They are covered with incised
+figures of unknown meaning: sculptures in concentric
+whorls or circles, as if tattoed like the cheek
+of a New Zealander; and the only forms to be distinguished
+are serpent-like figures, and the representation
+of an axe, similar to those to be seen in
+the Grotte des Fées, the Dol des Marchands, and
+the Manné-Lud. In one of the side stones of the
+chamber are two handle-looking projections, with a
+recess behind, said, probably erroneously, to be the
+place where the victims were bound. No celts or
+other objects of antiquity were found in the grotto,
+which must have been previously rifled of its contents.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page177">[pg 177]</span><a name="Pg177" id="Pg177" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+These sculptures cannot have been executed
+without the use of metal instruments. There are
+also Celtic remains in the Ile aux Moines and other
+islands of the Morbihan, but our guide did not
+encourage us to extend our sail to visit them. The
+current between the island and Port Navalo is sometimes
+of great rapidity and violence.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day we went to Carnac to see its marvellous
+avenues of menhirs. The Celtic remains here are of
+a different character from those of Locmariaker.
+Here there is quantity, at Locmariaker size. The
+monuments of the last are covered with strange
+characters and signs; in Carnac they are all plain
+and silent, according to the laws of the Druids, who
+prohibited writing, in the fear of thereby divulging
+their mysteries, and also that the people might not
+neglect to cultivate their memories.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Tout cela eut un sens, et traduisit</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Une pensée; mais la clé de ce mystère,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Où est elle? et qui pourrait dire aujourd'hui</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Si jamais elle se retrouvera?</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Cayat Delandre</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Before reaching Carnac, we stopped at Kermario
+on the left, and got out of the carriage to inspect
+the army of large menhirs about the windmill.
+They are arranged in eleven rows, some sixteen feet
+high, placed with the small end in the ground.
+They are all of a sombre grey, many of them
+clothed with straggling lichens of various species.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page178">[pg 178]</span><a name="Pg178" id="Pg178" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+This wild heathy tract was covered with the blue
+flower of the dwarf gentian, and strewed all over
+with menhirs. Before arriving at Carnac, the road
+passes the avenues of Menec, all running in the
+same direction as those of Kermario, from east to
+west: among these are some of the largest stones.
+The third large group, at <span class="tei tei-corr">Erdeven</span>, we saw on our
+way from Carnac back to Auray by another road.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">D'un passé sans mémoire incertaines reliques,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mystères d'un vieux monde en mystères écrits.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Lamartine</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We do not pretend to enter into the various
+explanations attempted of this wonderful monument.
+The legend at Carnac is, that St. Cornély,
+pursued by an army of pagans, fled towards the
+sea; finding no boat at hand, and on the point of
+being taken, he transformed the soldiers into stones.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Les soldats de deux rois idolâtres</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Poursuivaient notre saint dejà l'ami des pâtres,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et sur un chariot trainé par de grands bœufs</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Le bons vieux Cornéli se sauvait devant eux;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Or, voici que la mer, terrible aussi l'arrête;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Alors, le saint prélat, du haut de sa charrette</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Tend la main: les soldats, tels qu'ils étaient rangés,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">En autant de menhirs, voyez! furent changés.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Telle est notre croyance, et personne n'ignore</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Que le patron des bœufs c'est ici qu'on l'honore;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Aux lieux où la charrette et le saint ont passés,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Le froment pousse encor plus vert et plus pressé.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Brizeux</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Cornély is the patron of bullocks. When a
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page179">[pg 179]</span><a name="Pg179" id="Pg179" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+beast is ill, his owner buys an image of St. Cornély,
+and hangs it up in the stable till its recovery. In
+the church of Carnac is a series of fresco paintings
+portraying the principal events of his life, and outside,
+a sculpture representing him between two bullocks.
+The head of St. Cornély is preserved here;
+the pulpit is of forged iron, and in the sacristy is
+shown a silver gilt monstrance of the Louis XIV.
+period, with a representation of the Supper at Emmaus,
+chased in relief round the foot. We walked
+to the Mont St. Michel, a tumulus of stones with
+sepulchral dolmen, opened in 1862, but now closed.
+It was found to contain objects of the "Stone" age,
+a number of jade celts from four to sixteen inches
+long, some perforated beads and pendents for a
+necklace, and there were traces of burnt bones.
+Like most monuments of Celtic origin, these tumuli
+were regarded with religious veneration; and the
+first teachers of Christianity, to enlist the old worship
+to the cause of truth, marked each of these monuments
+with the symbol of the new faith. Thus the
+cross was placed on the menhir, and a chapel built
+upon Mont St. Michel, and, as we have before seen,
+on Mont Dol, and other high places of Druidic
+worship. The little chapel dedicated to St. Michel,
+which surmounts the tumulus, forms a conspicuous
+landmark from every point, and commands a most
+extensive view over the stones of Carnac ranged in
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page180">[pg 180]</span><a name="Pg180" id="Pg180" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+their eleven lines, on a treeless plain, the Morbihan,
+and the long dreary peninsula of Quiberon.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Returning by another route, we alighted at the
+inn at Plouharnel to see a collection of jade celts,
+gold torques, and necklaces of beads, found in the
+neighbourhood, belonging to the landlord, M. Bail,
+who has them all arranged in a frame. They were
+discovered in a group of dolmens near the village,
+opened in 1830, consisting of three grottos or allées
+couvertes, a kind of triple dolmen, covered over with
+a mound. The central grotto and gallery had been
+opened before. The second dolmen had also a grotto
+or allée couverte, in which was found an earthen pot,
+containing ashes and three gold necklaces. In the
+third were some fragments of pottery. Three gold
+necklaces, composed each of a single plate of metal,
+an inch and a half wide, with fragments of the
+earthen vessels in which they were found, together
+with stone celts and some pieces of bronze, extracted
+from the dolmen, we afterwards saw exhibited in the
+"Musée du Travail" of the Universal Exhibition of
+1867. These dolmens belong to a much later period
+of civilisation than those of Locmariaker—to the
+"Bronze" Age.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image40.jpg" width="563" height="467" alt="" title="40. Dolmen of Corcorro." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">40. Dolmen of Corcorro.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The number of dolmens in the Morbihan is estimated
+at 250. In the department of Finistère they
+are set at double the number. All are supposed to
+have been originally covered with earth. The bodies
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page181">[pg 181]</span><a name="Pg181" id="Pg181" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+are more frequently buried than burnt. The dolmens
+contain implements of stone and bone, occasionally
+gold and bronze, but never iron. To judge from
+the comparative quantities found in the different
+departments, it may be assumed that they are the
+work of people who have entered France from the
+west, and have gradually worked their way by the
+rivers and valleys further up the country. In this
+secluded spot we found a large English family
+located, ten in number; they had been living there
+several months. Before reaching Erdeven, at Kerserho,
+on a large lande or heathy plain, we arrived
+at another series of the great Carnac army of stones,
+of which they are a continuation. They are arranged
+in nine parallel rows, as may be clearly distinguished
+by standing upon one of the stones; but the lines
+are rather interrupted by hedges and ditches. Some
+are menhirs planted vertically on the end, others
+enormous blocks simply laid upon the soil. They
+extend half a league from north to south, more
+numerous than Carnac, but generally not so tall, the
+highest from ten to twelve feet, but very large. The
+road is strewed with Druidic monuments. At Corcorro,
+between Plouharnel and Erdeven, on a farm,
+a short distance off the road, is a dolmen, the largest
+in the Morbihan. Its original length appears to
+have been 45 feet; the part preserved is 24 feet by
+12 feet wide, and is covered with two slabs: one of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page182">[pg 182]</span><a name="Pg182" id="Pg182" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+these is enormous, about six feet wide. It is used as
+a cart-shed, and, when we saw it, contained bundles
+of hemp and a hemp-breaker. One of the top
+stones overhangs the others, showing the dolmen
+to have been originally larger. A number of ragged
+children clustered upon the top, as if they had been
+accustomed to group themselves for a picture. They
+effectually prevented any of us sketching the dolmen,
+for, as soon as we began to draw, they all, in
+number about forty, came down from their height and
+pressed closely around us. From Auray we took a
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page183">[pg 183]</span><a name="Pg183" id="Pg183" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+carriage to Vannes, a tidal port, one league from the
+gulf of Morbihan, and capital of that department.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Its people, the Veneti, were the head of the
+Armorican confederation, and commanded the fleet
+in time of war. Their vessels had sails of prepared
+skins, their cables were chains of iron. They traded
+with the Scilly Islands, and brought back tin, copper,
+skins, slaves, and dogs, objects of traffic with other
+nations. The Armorican confederation made a
+vigorous resistance against Cæsar, who sent round
+for the Roman fleet and beat them in a naval battle
+in the Morbihan sea. The Romans had attached
+to their ships large sharp scythes which mowed down
+masts and rigging, and a dead calm rendering the
+enemy's ships immovable, they were soon taken,
+burnt, or sunk. This battle ended the war with the
+maritime states of the west. Cæsar showed little
+mercy to the conquered: all the senators were put
+to death, and the rest of the population sold by
+auction to furnish the slave-markets of Italy.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We walked to the promenade, called the "Garenne,"
+where Sombreuil, Renée de Hercé, bishop
+of Dol, and twenty-two others of the emigrants,
+were shot. Sombreuil was about twenty-six or
+twenty-seven years of age, a native of Périgord. He
+always persisted in the same account of the capitulation.
+His last words were:-"Si j'avais pu imaginer
+que des militaires pussent manquer à leur parole
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page184">[pg 184]</span><a name="Pg184" id="Pg184" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+donnée sur le champ de bataille, je n'aurais jamais
+consenti à une capitulation; elle me cause des regrets
+amers qui me suivront jusqu'au tombeau. Adieu,
+Messieurs, nous trouverons justice et clémence devant
+un tribunal où la fraude des hommes ne saurait
+jamais parvenir." A republican officer offered to bandage
+his eyes: "Non," he exclaimed, "je veux voir
+mon ennemi jusqu'au dernier instant." Requested
+to kneel, Sombreuil answered: "Je le veux bien;
+mais je fais observer que je mets un genou pour
+mon Dieu, et l'autre pour mon roi." Thus ended
+the most ill-fated expedition that history has ever had
+to record.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The cathedral of Vannes has a richly-sculptured
+north porch of Kersanton stone, and another, facing
+the Rue des Trois Duchesses. Also, a Renaissance
+chapel, called the Chapelle du Saint Sacrament or
+du Pardon, with a hideous roof replacing the original.
+Adjoining are the remains of the elegant cloisters of
+the cathedral, with basket-handled arcades of the
+fifteenth century. In the cathedral is also the chapel
+of St. Vincent Ferrier, the great preacher of the
+fifteenth century, whose labours extended over
+almost every country of Europe—Italy, Germany,
+France, Switzerland, and Great Britain. San Vicente
+Ferrar, a Dominican monk, was the son of an attorney,
+originally of Valencia, in Spain, of which city
+he is the tutelar saint. In Spain he led the way in
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page185">[pg 185]</span><a name="Pg185" id="Pg185" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+preaching a crusade against the Jews and Moors,
+who were persecuted by the Inquisition with the
+most cruel bigotry. Invited to Brittany by Duke
+John V., he fixed himself at Vannes, where, after
+having evangelised the province, he died in 1419.
+He was buried in the cathedral. The Duchess
+Jeanne de France, daughter of Charles VI., was
+present at his deathbed, and insisted on laying him
+out. By her own desire, she was buried at his feet.
+Philip II., King of Spain, desired his relics, but did
+not succeed in obtaining them. The little house in
+which St. Vincent Ferrier lived is preserved (No. 13,
+Rue des Orfèvres). A tiny room, up a narrow staircase,
+is now converted into a chapel, in which are
+shown the stone which served him as a pillow, his
+lamp, and other relics.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Maison du Parlement or Château Gaillau is
+a curious old building, with its entrance by a stone
+staircase and turret. Vannes was the usual residence
+of Dukes John IV. and V., and had formerly three
+châteaux: La Motte, of which the Hôtel de la Préfecture
+occupies the site; Plaisance, half a mile out
+of the town, where Duke Francis I. died; and La
+Hermine, scene of John IV.'s treacherous imprisonment
+of the Constable Clisson, which was razed in
+1614. It had two towers—one demolished in 1770, the
+other still standing, called the "Tour du Connétable,"
+because it was within its walls he imprisoned Clisson.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page186">[pg 186]</span><a name="Pg186" id="Pg186" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+The Duke had resolved on his death, to prevent the
+marriage of Clisson's daughter Marguerite to Jean
+de Bretagne, Count de Penthièvre, son of Charles
+of Blois.<a id="noteref_17" name="noteref_17" href="#note_17"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">17</span></span></a> The story is well related by d'Argentré.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Duke of Brittany summoned his barons and
+knights to a council at Vannes, and entertained them
+in the Castle de la Motte. He behaved in the most
+friendly manner, and invited the Constable, the
+Lords of Laval and de Beaumanoir, to see the castle
+of Hermine he was building. He led the Constable
+by the hand through the chambers, and when they
+arrived at the keep, said, "Sir Oliver, there's not a
+man who understands masonry so well as yourself;
+enter and examine the walls well, and if you say it is
+properly built, it shall remain." The unsuspecting
+Constable ascended the staircase, when the door was
+closed upon him and he was seized and loaded with
+three pairs of fetters. The Duke ordered him to
+be put into a sack, his hands and feet tied, and to be
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page187">[pg 187]</span><a name="Pg187" id="Pg187" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+thrown secretly at night into the sea. But the Constable
+owed his life to the loyalty of Jean Bazvalen,
+who, like another Hubert, did not obey his master's
+commands, the laws of his sovereign being less sacred
+in his eyes than the dictates of humanity and honour.
+Clisson was set at liberty, on agreeing to pay 100,000
+livres and to surrender the town of Jugon and some
+other fortresses. This perfidious attempt occasioned
+a war of three years, and was retaliated by Clisson's
+daughter and grandsons upon Duke John V.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Tour du Connétable, which formed the north-east
+angle of the Château de la Hermine, is now
+used as a museum of Celtic antiquities, and contains
+various objects collected in the tumuli of the Morbihan.
+We observed one very large jade celt, eighteen
+inches long, found, we understood, in the Butte de
+Tumiac. At Vannes the States of Brittany held
+their sittings, and here took place the union of that
+province with France, 1532.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About twelve miles from Vannes is Korn-er-hoët,
+demesne of the Princess Baciocchi, cousin of the
+Emperor. It was formerly surrounded by woods
+and the interminable lande of Lanvaux, which
+stretches its desolate length along the Morbihan
+from Baud to Rochefort. This district had been,
+from time immemorial, the abode of some eighty
+families of gipsies, who lived there in clay huts under
+the rule of a chieftain. The sight of this barren
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page188">[pg 188]</span><a name="Pg188" id="Pg188" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+wilderness had so impressed the Princess Baciocchi,
+in a tour she made in Brittany in the year 1857, that
+she obtained the sanction of the Emperor to reclaim
+it. She caused a temporary châlet to be built for
+her occupation at Kern-er-hoët, and, superintending
+the works herself, in a few years effected a wonderful
+transformation. A model village has been formed,
+with church and schools, a well-ordered agricultural
+population organised, farm-buildings erected, roads
+macadamised, the barren lande drained and reclaimed,
+and the château surrounded by a well-wooded park.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Great attention has been paid to the details of the
+dairy farm; all the disposable milk is made into
+Dutch cheese. The cows are those of Brittany and
+Ayrshire; the pigs from England. The whole demesne
+comprises about 1300 acres, and the benevolent
+Princess resides entirely on the scene of her
+labours, among the people whose condition she has
+so ameliorated.<a id="noteref_18" name="noteref_18" href="#note_18"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">18</span></span></a></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Vannes we made an excursion into the
+peninsula of Rhuys, on the south of the Morbihan
+Sea. We first stopped at Sarzeau, where Lesage,
+the amiable author of 'Gil Blas,' was born, of whom
+it was written on his epitaph:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">S'il ne fut pas ami de la fortune,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Il fut toujours ami de la vertu.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Then on to the ducal fortress of Sucinio, situated
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page189">[pg 189]</span><a name="Pg189" id="Pg189" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+on the borders of the ocean. It is a magnificent
+ruin, built in 1250, by Duke Jean le Roux, to
+deposit his treasures, in case an invasion of the
+French should compel him to leave his duchy.
+The position is well chosen, its situation on the seashore
+enabling him easily to embark his treasures.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This formidable "coffre fort" was a favourite
+residence of the Dukes of Brittany, who came here
+as a relief from the cares and ceremonies of a Court.
+Its name, of which Sucinio is a corruption, Soucy-ny-ot,
+synonymous with the Sans-Souci of the great
+Frederick, shows its intention. This locality was
+long celebrated for its fine air, and its peaceful character.
+Louis XIV. used to say to his courtiers—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Désirez vous un pays de repos et de délices?</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Allez habiter l'île de Rhuys.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Partly demolished, Sucinio presents a mass of
+now only picturesque ruins, a curious type of the
+architecture of the thirteenth century. Five of
+the eight enormous battlemented towers remain, and
+the flamboyant window of the chapel on the upper
+floor of the building is still preserved. Traces of
+the portcullis and drawbridge are visible. Over the
+gallery is an escutcheon, with a couchant lion
+holding the arms of Brittany, between two stags,
+also couchant, at the foot of a tree. The sea that
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page190">[pg 190]</span><a name="Pg190" id="Pg190" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+bathed the walls of the castle has been driven back
+by the accumulation of mud and the crumbling of
+the walls.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Here was born Arthur III., Comte de Richemont,
+Constable of France, and afterwards Duke of Brittany.
+This illustrious man, equally great as a
+warrior and politician, does not take his merited
+place in the page of history, owing probably to the
+partiality of French historians, who were always
+jealous of the glory of Brittany. Except Du
+Guesclin, no other constable has rendered greater
+service to France.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A prisoner at Agincourt, where he commanded
+the van, he fought with the Maid of Orleans,<a id="noteref_19" name="noteref_19" href="#note_19"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">19</span></span></a> at Beaugeney, took Talbot captive at Patai,
+reconquered almost the whole of Normandy, entered
+Paris in 1436, and finally expelled the English by
+the crushing victory of Formigny, having staked
+his honour to drive them out of the kingdom.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page191">[pg 191]</span><a name="Pg191" id="Pg191" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Seven years after, he succeeded to the ducal crown;
+but such was the confidence of Charles VII. in his
+loyalty, that he retained the supreme command of
+the French army with his new dignity. He reigned
+only fourteen months. Richmont always caused
+two swords to be carried before him when he appeared
+in presence of the King; a naked sword, as
+Duke of Brittany, and the other sheathed and the
+point turned downwards, as Constable of France.
+The title of Earl of Richmond, styled by the French
+Comte de Richmont, dates from the Conqueror.
+Alan Rufus, son of the Earl of Brittany, accompanied
+Duke William to England, and commanded
+the rear of the army at the battle of Hastings. For
+these services, he was rewarded with the hand of the
+Conqueror's daughter, and all that northern part
+of Yorkshire, now called Richmondshire, where
+he built, on the river Swale, the town and castle
+of Richmond.  The title passed through Alice,
+daughter of Constance of Brittany, to Pierre de
+Dreux, and descended through him to all the Dukes
+of his house, until John IV., having gone over to
+the King of France, was deprived of the earldom by
+Act of Parliament, in the reign of King Richard II.;
+but Henry IV. again conferred the title upon his
+stepson Arthur, afterwards the celebrated Constable
+and Duke of Brittany.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page192">[pg 192]</span><a name="Pg192" id="Pg192" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We returned to breakfast at Sarzeau; then on to
+the Abbey of St. Gildas de Rhuys, founded on this
+inaccessible coast by St. Gildas, an English saint, the
+schoolfellow and friend of St. Samson of Dol and St.
+Pol de Léon, and which counted among its monks our
+Saxon St. Dunstan, who, carried by pirates from his
+native isle, settled on the desolate shores of Brittany,
+and became, under the name of St. Goustan, the
+patron of mariners.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Gildas built his abbey on the edge of a high
+rocky promontory, the site of an ancient Roman
+encampment, called Grand Mont, facing the shore,
+where the sea has formed numerous caverns in its
+rocks. They are composed chiefly of quartz, and
+are covered to a great height with innumerable
+small mussels. The tide was too high to admit of
+our entering into any of the grottoes, but the piles
+of dark rocks beaten into every form by the violence
+of the waves, rising sometimes to the height of
+sixty feet, are very imposing. St. Gildas, in the
+twelfth century, had Abelard for superior, who, on
+his appointment, made over to Eloise the celebrated
+abbey he had founded at Nogent, near Troyes,
+which he called the Paraclete or Comforter, because
+he there found comfort and refreshment after his
+troubles, but his peace soon ended on his arrival in
+Brittany. His gentle nature was unable to contend
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page193">[pg 193]</span><a name="Pg193" id="Pg193" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+against these coarse, ferocious, unruly, Breton
+monks. As he writes in his well-known letter to
+Eloise, setting forth his griefs:—</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-q">“J'habite un pays barbare, dont la langue m'est inconnue et
+en horreur: je n'ai de commerce qu'avec des peuples féroces;
+mes promenades sont les bords inaccessibles d'une mer agitée;
+mes moines n'ont d'autre règle que n'en point avoir. Je
+voudrais que vous vissiez ma maison, vous ne la prendriez
+jamais pour une abbaye: les portes ne sont ornées que de
+pieds de biche, de loups et d'ours, de sangliers, des dépouilles
+hideuses des hiboux. J'éprouve chaque jour de nouveaux
+périls; je crois à tout moment voir sur ma tête un glaive
+suspendu.”</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But if Abelard hated the monks, they equally
+detested him, and one day tried to poison him, but
+he escaped through a gate in the garden wall, still
+pointed out, to the sea shore, where his friend and protector,
+the Count de Rhuys, awaited him in a boat.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The abbey is now in the occupation of twelve
+sisters of the "Charité de St. Louis," who have a
+school for poor girls, and, in the summer, take in
+families to board who come here for the benefit of
+the bracing air of this fine wild coast. There is a
+kind of establishment for bathing in the little bay
+below the abbey. The board and lodging is moderate,
+three francs and a half a day, wine, tea, and
+sugar, not included. Boys are admitted up to
+thirteen, but the men are sent into the town.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Part of the abbey church is Romanesque: a semi-circular
+choir, with three round chapels and the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page194">[pg 194]</span><a name="Pg194" id="Pg194" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+transepts. The nave and tower are of modern date.
+The pavement is covered with tumulary stones.
+Four children of Duke John III. le Roux are buried
+here, and one of Joan of Navarre and John IV.
+In the Treasury are several pieces of plate, among
+which is a Renaissance chalice, with six canopied
+statuettes of Apostles forming the knop; and a cross
+of the same period, a châsse of St. Gildas, his head
+and arm both encased in silver reliquaries.  His
+tomb is in the church.  Encrusted in the wall
+outside the church are the figures of two knights
+on horseback in mailed armour, conical Norman
+helmets, long pointed shields, and lances in the
+attitude of combat. The church and convent of
+St. Gildas belonged to the family of Bisson, whose
+self-devotion is commemorated by a statue at
+Lorient. He passed here many years of his early
+life, and wishing to preserve the buildings from ruin,
+gave them as a present to the parish. St. Gildas
+is called by the Bretons St. Feltas. There is a rude
+coloured print in the church relative to the legend
+of Comorre, or Comor, the Breton "Blue Beard," in
+which St. Gildas plays a conspicuous part. The
+story, as told by Emile Souvestre, is this:—Guerech,
+Count of Vannes, the country of white corn, had a
+daughter, Triphyna, whom he tenderly loved. One
+day, ambassadors arrived from Comorre, a Prince
+of Cornouaille, the country of the black corn, demanding
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page195">[pg 195]</span><a name="Pg195" id="Pg195" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+her in marriage. Now this caused great
+distress, for Comorre was a giant, and one of the
+wickedest of men, held in awe by every one for his
+cruelty. As a boy, when he went out, his mother
+used to ring a bell to warn people of his approach.
+He shot a child in order to prove his gun; and,
+when unsuccessful in the chase, would set his dogs
+on the peasants to tear them in pieces. But most
+horrible of all, he had had four wives, who all died
+one after the other, under suspicion of having been
+killed by either the knife, fire, water, or poison.
+The Count of Vannes, therefore, dismissed the
+ambassadors, and advanced to meet Comorre, who
+was approaching with a powerful army; but St.
+Gildas went into her oratory, and begged Triphyna
+would save bloodshed, and consent to the marriage.
+He gave her a silver ring, which would warn her
+of any intended evil, by turning, at the approach of
+danger, as black as the crow's wing. The marriage
+took place with great rejoicings. The first day six
+thousand guests were invited; on the next as many
+poor were fed, the bride and the bridegroom serving
+at table, a napkin under their arms.  For some
+time, all went on well. Comorre's nature seemed
+changed, his prisons were empty, his gibbets untenanted;
+but Triphyna felt no confidence, and every
+day went to pray at the tombs of his four wives.
+At this time there was an assembly at Rennes of the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page196">[pg 196]</span><a name="Pg196" id="Pg196" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Breton Princes, which Comorre was obliged to
+attend. Before his departure, he gave Triphyna
+the keys, desiring her to amuse herself in his absence.
+After five months he unexpectedly returned, and
+found her occupied in trimming an infant's cap with
+gold lace.  On seeing the cap, Comorre turned
+pale; and when Triphyna joyfully announced to him
+that in two months he would be a father, he drew
+back in a rage and rushed out of the apartment.
+Triphyna saw that her ring had turned black, which
+betokened danger, she knew not why. She descended
+into the chapel to pray; when she rose to
+depart it was midnight, and she saw the four tombs
+of Comorre's wives open slowly, and they all issued
+forth in their winding-sheets. Half dead with fear,
+Triphyna tried to escape; but the spectres cried,
+"Take care, poor lost one! Comorre seeks to kill
+you." "I," says the Countess, "what evil have I
+done?"—"You have told him that you will soon
+become a mother; and, through the Spirit of Evil,
+he knows that his child will kill him, and that is
+why he has murdered us, when we told him what
+he has just learned from you." "What hope then
+of escape remains for me," cried Triphyna."—"Go
+back to your father," answered the phantoms.
+"But how escape when Comorre's dog guards the
+court?"—"Give him this poison which killed me,"
+said the first wife." "But how can I descend this
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page197">[pg 197]</span><a name="Pg197" id="Pg197" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+high wall?"—"By means of this cord which
+strangled me," answered the second wife. "But
+who will guide me through the dark?"—"The
+fire which burnt me," replied the third wife. "And
+how can I make so long a journey?" returned
+Triphyna.—"Take this stick which broke my
+skull," rejoined the fourth spectre. Armed with
+these weapons, Triphyna sets out, silences the dog,
+scales the wall, sees her way through the darkness,
+and proceeds on her road to Vannes. On awakening
+next morning, Comorre finds his wife fled, and
+pursues her on horseback. The poor fugitive, seeing
+her ring turn black, turned off the road and hid
+herself till night in the cabin of a shepherd, where
+was only an old magpie in a cage at the door.
+Comorre, who had given up the pursuit, was returning
+home that road, when he heard the magpie
+trying to imitate her complaints, and calling out
+"Poor Triphyna!" he therefore knew his wife had
+passed that way, and set his dog on the track.
+Meanwhile, Triphyna felt she could proceed no
+further, and laid down on the ground, where she
+brought into the world a boy of marvellous beauty.
+As she clasped him to her arms, she saw over her
+head a falcon with a golden collar, which she recognised
+as her father's. The bird came to her call,
+and giving it the warning ring of St. Gildas, she
+told it to fly with it to her father. The bird obeyed
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page198">[pg 198]</span><a name="Pg198" id="Pg198" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and flew with it like lightning to Vannes; but,
+almost at the same instant, Comorre arrived; having
+parted with her warning ring, Triphyna, who had
+no notice of his approach, had only time to
+conceal her babe in the cavity of a tree, when
+Comorre threw himself upon his unhappy wife, and
+with one blow severed her head from her body.
+When the falcon arrived at Vannes, he found the
+King at dinner with St. Gildas; he let the ring fall
+into the silver cup of his master, who recognising it,
+exclaimed, "My daughter is in danger; saddle the
+horses, and let St. Gildas accompany us." Following
+the falcon, they soon reached the spot where
+Triphyna lay dead. After they had all knelt in
+prayer, St. Gildas said to the corpse, "Arise, take
+thy head and thy child, and follow us." The dead
+body obeyed, the bewildered troop followed; but,
+gallop as fast as they could, the headless body was
+always in front, carrying the babe in her left hand,
+and her pale head in the right. In this manner,
+they reached the castle of Comorre. "Count,"
+says St. Gildas, "I bring back your wife such as
+your wickedness has made her, and thy child such
+as Heaven has given it thee. Wilt thou receive
+them under thy roof?" Comorre was silent. The
+Saint three times repeated the question, but no
+voice returned an answer. Then St. Gildas took
+the new-born infant from its mother, and placed it
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page199">[pg 199]</span><a name="Pg199" id="Pg199" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+on the ground. The child marched alone to the
+edge of the moat, and picking up a handful of
+earth, and throwing it against the castle, exclaimed,
+"Let the Trinity execute judgment." At the same
+instant the towers shook and fell with a great crash;
+the walls yawned open and the castle sunk, burying
+Comorre and all his fellow partners in crime. St.
+Gildas then replaced Triphyna's head upon her
+shoulders, laid his hands upon her, and restored her
+to life, to the great joy of her father.—Such is the
+history of Triphyna and Comorre.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our way back to Vannes we saw on our left
+the Butte de Tumiac, or Butte d'Arzon, the largest
+tumulus of the Morbihan. It was opened in 1853,
+and found to enclose a chamber full of pulverised
+bones and various curious objects. From Vannes
+we also visited the stately castle of Elven, about four
+miles from the station of that name; not built on a
+lofty site, for, in the fifteenth century, the barons
+had descended from their heights to places more
+convenient of access, and where water was more
+easily obtained. The Breton feudal lords of Rohan,
+Rieux, Clisson, and Penthièvre, no longer required
+fortified places as means of defence against the
+French and English, but, in consequence of their
+own internal divisions, to defend them in their wars
+with their duke or among themselves. The castle
+of Elven is situated in an insulated coppice wood, in
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page200">[pg 200]</span><a name="Pg200" id="Pg200" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the midst of the lande of Elven. It was the chief
+place of the lordship of l'Argoët (in Breton, "upon
+the wood"), and is also called the fortress of Largoët.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image41.jpg" width="355" height="591" alt="" title="41. Castle of Elven." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">41. Castle of Elven.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ruins, which occupy a large enclosure, consist
+chiefly of two towers; the principal one, 130 feet
+high, is octagonal; the other, which is not above
+100 feet in height, is split from top to bottom. The
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page201">[pg 201]</span><a name="Pg201" id="Pg201" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+battlemented walls are nearly 20 feet thick at the
+base. A wide deep moat surrounded the castle, and
+it was furnished with subterranean passages and
+everything requisite to make it a model of the military
+architecture of the fifteenth century. The
+donjon has two granite staircases; one leads to the
+top, whence may be seen Vannes and the Morbihan,
+with its islands. Here, in 1793, the Royalists established
+signals. In the castle of Elven, Henry of
+Richmond, then only fifteen, with his uncle, Jasper
+Tudor, Earl of Pembroke, were detained by Duke
+Francis II. for fifteen years. Fugitives after Tewkesbury,
+they were thrown by a tempest upon the shores
+of Brittany. Henry was claimed both by King
+Edward IV. and Louis XI., and was kept by Duke
+Francis as a pledge of the good faith of Edward
+towards Brittany. Perhaps also Francis may have
+entertained some ill-feeling towards Henry from his
+bearing the title of Earl of Richmond, which had
+been held for more than three hundred years by the
+Dukes of Brittany. Francis revived the claim to
+the title which Henry VI. had conferred (1452) on
+Edward Tudor, father of Henry. Subsequently, on
+the assurance of the King of England that he only
+required the release of Henry to invest him with the
+Order of the Garter and to give him his daughter,
+the Princess Elizabeth, in marriage, Duke Francis
+made over the Prince to the English Ambassador,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page202">[pg 202]</span><a name="Pg202" id="Pg202" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and he was about to embark at St. Malo for England,
+when the Duke's Grand Treasurer (Landais) arrived,
+warned Henry of his danger, and helped him to take
+refuge in the sanctuary of the church, whence he
+afterwards withdrew him again to place him in
+honourable captivity for twelve more years, till King
+Edward's death. A party being formed in England,
+aided by the Duchess of Brittany, Françoise de Foix,
+Henry attempted a descent; but the plan being discovered,
+after seeing the English coast, Henry was
+obliged to return to Brittany and his ships were
+scattered in a storm.  Again within his power,
+Landais listened to the offers of King Richard III.,
+and agreed to give him up; but Henry, informed in
+time, left Vannes, threw himself into the forest, and
+escaped to France, where he obtained from the regent,
+Anne de Beaujeu, the assistance which enabled him
+to mount the English throne.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The castle of Elven, with those of Rieux and
+Rochefort, belonged to the Maréchal de Rieux.
+Elven was rebuilt by him with the materials of the
+old; but they were all dismantled by the orders of
+the Duchess Anne in 1496, to punish her guardian
+for his revolt. Yet Rieux acted as he thought best
+for the welfare of his late master and his daughter,
+whose cause he defended against the interested views
+of the King of France. Rieux had that keen sense
+of honour which is one of the characteristics of the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page203">[pg 203]</span><a name="Pg203" id="Pg203" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Breton gentleman. When he reproached Anne de
+Beaujeu, regent, to her brother Charles VIII., for
+having instigated the King to attack Nantes, contrary
+to his engagements, Anne replied, "He had no
+written promise." "Et quoi, Madame!" he indignantly
+exclaimed; "la parole d'un roy, ne vaut elle
+pas mille scellez?" Louis de Rieux, the last of the
+race, was shot on the Champs des Martyrs. True
+to the motto of his house, "A toute heure, Rieux,"
+he showed himself ready "at any hour" to die for
+the altar and the throne.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Elven is the scene of M. Octave Feuillet's "Roman
+d'un jeune Homme pauvre;" and the keeper who
+shows the ruins points out the spot whence the
+"Hero of Romance" took the leap to prove his
+loyalty, and which gained him the hand of the lady.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next morning we started early by rail to Questembert,
+to meet the diligence for Ploërmel, twenty
+miles from this station, passing through Malestroit.
+We saw quantities of chestnuts on our road, and
+were told they were largely exported to England.
+They come principally from the neighbourhood of
+Redon and other places in the department of Ile-et-Vilaine,
+where they grow as abundantly as described
+by Madame de Sevigné, when writing from the
+Château des Roches, in the same department:
+"Pour nous, ce sont des châtaignes qui font notre
+ornement. J'en avois l'autre jour trois au quatre
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page204">[pg 204]</span><a name="Pg204" id="Pg204" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+paniers autour de moi. J'en fis bouillir, j'en fis rôtir,
+j'en mis dans mes poches, on en sert dans les plats,
+on marche dessus, c'est la Bretagne dans son triomphe."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Ploërmel derives its name (plo-ermel, land or
+territory of Armel) from an anchorite of the sixth
+century, who treated a dragon which ravaged the
+country in the time of King Childebert in the same
+manner as St. Pol de Léon disposed of the monster
+at Batz.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The façade of the church of Saint Armel has a
+number of grotesque carvings—the sow playing the
+bagpipes, the cobbler sewing up the mouth of his
+wife, &amp;c.; but it is principally remarkable for its
+eight painted windows of the sixteenth century,
+lately restored, and the monumental effigies of two
+Dukes of Brittany; the one, John II., who was killed
+at Lyons, where he went to settle some differences
+with his clergy, on the occasion of the coronation of
+Pope Clement V. A wall, loaded with spectators,
+fell, and the Duke was crushed in its ruins; the Pope
+escaped with being only thrown from his mule.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The other effigy is that of Duke John III., or the
+Good, whose death was the signal for the War of
+Succession. He died at Caen. These tombs were
+formerly in the Carmelite convent founded by
+John II., who, on his return from the Holy Land,
+established the first Carmelite convent in Brittany,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page205">[pg 205]</span><a name="Pg205" id="Pg205" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+and brought monks from Mount Carmel to inhabit
+it.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The tombs were destroyed in the Revolution, but
+the two statues were saved. They are of white
+marble, and are placed on a monumental slab, side
+by side, with this inscription: "De tous temps la
+fidélité Bretonne rendit hommage à ses souverains."
+Duke John II. is represented in a hauberk of mail,
+the hood turned back, with cotte d'armes, shield,
+and sword. Duke John III. has his head encircled
+by the ducal crown, his hair long, his genouillières,
+cuissarts, &amp;c., of plate armour. His shield and cotte
+d'armes are semé of ermines, and by his side is the
+dagger of miséricorde, which served to kill the fallen
+enemy unless he cried for mercy. When James II.
+passed through Ploërmel after the Battle of the
+Boyne, a fugitive and a dethroned monarch, the
+Carmelite monks would not take him in; but he
+found in the little village of Penfra the hospitality
+they had refused him. Here is an establishment,
+directed by a brother of Lamennais, the celebrated
+author of 'Paroles d'un Croyant,' where people of all
+nations—Indians, negroes from Senegambia, and
+others—are educated and taught trades of every
+kind, and sent back to their own countries.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image42.jpg" width="346" height="528" alt="" title="42. Column of the Thirty." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">42. Column of the Thirty.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The people about Ploërmel and Josselin speak
+French instead of Breton, the prevailing language of
+the Morbihan department. It is nearly seven miles
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page206">[pg 206]</span><a name="Pg206" id="Pg206" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+between Ploërmel and Josselin. Equally distant
+from each, at Mi-voie, in the centre of a star formed
+by avenues of firs and cypresses, is an obelisk set up
+to commemorate the famous "Combat des Trente,"
+which took place on this spot in 1351, and on which
+are inscribed the names of the thirty who fought on
+the French side. It was during that period of the
+War of Succession when hostilities were carried on
+by the two Jeannes, Marshal Beaumanoir, the Breton
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page207">[pg 207]</span><a name="Pg207" id="Pg207" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+commander of the garrison of Josselin for Jeanne
+de Penthièvre, gave a challenge to Bembro', as he
+is called, the English captain who held Ploërmel for
+Jeanne de Montfort and her infant son, in consequence
+of an alleged infraction by the latter of a
+truce, agreed upon between the Kings of France
+and England, in which it had been stipulated that
+the peasants and those not bearing arms should be
+unmolested. In spite of this compact, the English
+soldiers devastated the country and committed every
+kind of excess. Jean de Beaumanoir repaired to
+Ploërmel to remonstrate, and it was agreed to settle
+the dispute by a fight between thirty warriors from
+each camp. The prophecies of Merlin were consulted,
+and found to promise victory to the English.
+The appointed place of meeting was by a large oak,
+the "Chêne de Mi-Voie," on a lande or large plain,
+half way from each town. The battle began with
+great fury, at first to the disadvantage of the Bretons,
+when Bembro' was killed, which threw dismay among
+the English; but a German, who succeeded in the
+command, rallied their courage, and the melée became
+thicker than ever. Beaumanoir was wounded,
+and his loss of blood and his long fast produced a
+burning thirst, and he asked for water. "Bois ton
+sang, Beaumanoir, ta soif se passera," was the reply of
+Geoffroy du Bois; and Beaumanoir, forgetting his
+thirst and his wound, continued the fight. The
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page208">[pg 208]</span><a name="Pg208" id="Pg208" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+English kept their ranks close, till Guillaume de
+Montauban broke them by a stratagem and threw
+them into confusion. He mounted his horse and
+pretended to fly, then suddenly turned upon the
+English with such force that he threw seven down
+and broke their ranks:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Grande fut la bataille et longuement dura:</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et le chapple (carnage) horrible est deçà et delà;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">La chaleur fut moult grande, chacun si tressua (sua);</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">De sœur et de sang la terre rosoya (rougit).</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">A ce bon samedi Beaumanoir si jeuna;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Grand soif eut le baron, à boire demanda;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Messire Geoffrey du Bois tantôt répondu a:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">'Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, la soif te passera;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Ce jour aurons honneur, chacun si gagnera</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Vaillante renommée, ja blâme ne sera.'—</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Beaumanoir le vaillant adonc s'évertua,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Tel deuil eut et telle ire que la soif lui passa;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et d'un côté et d'autre le chapple commença:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Morts furent ou blessés, guères n'en échappa.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Brizeux</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh Calverly Croquart,
+and others were made prisoners, and thus ended the
+Battle of the Thirty; gained, however, in a most disloyal
+manner, Montauban getting the aid of a horse,
+when all the other combatants fought on foot.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Breton knights returned to Josselin, their
+helmets decorated with branches of the broom—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">In every basnet a bright broom flower;</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">the place where the battle was fought running,
+according to the French poem,</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Le long d'une génetaie qui était verte et belle.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page209">[pg 209]</span><a name="Pg209" id="Pg209" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Josselin is celebrated for its château, where died,
+1407, Olivier du Clisson, the contemporary and
+brother of arms of Du Guesclin, whom he succeeded
+in the dignity of Constable of France, which no one
+for some time would accept, not thinking themselves
+worthy of replacing him. Both differed widely in
+position and character. Du Guesclin, though of a
+noble family, had not the advantage of fortune like
+Clisson, who had immense wealth and landed possessions,
+which made him a kind of sovereign in the
+duchy. He willed away a million of money. Clisson
+was a statesman, Du Guesclin's sole glory was in
+arms. Clisson was cruel, intriguing, and insatiable
+for riches; Du Guesclin was humane, loyal, and disinterested.
+Both were equal in bravery and physical
+force: the lance of Du Guesclin and the axe of
+Clisson<a id="noteref_20" name="noteref_20" href="#note_20"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">20</span></span></a>
+carried all before them. Clisson joined
+with Du Guesclin in freeing the country from the
+"Great Companies," and his most celebrated action
+was the defeat of the Flemings at Rosbecq. Few
+subjects have been so powerful, or have filled so
+important a part, as Olivier du Clisson. He was
+true to his sovereign after his reconciliation, and to
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page210">[pg 210]</span><a name="Pg210" id="Pg210" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+his children after him. John IV. had scarce closed
+his eyes when the daughter of Clisson, wife of Jean
+de Penthièvre, came to her father and said, "It
+depends only on you that my husband receives the
+inheritance of Brittany." "How?" asked the Constable.
+"By your ridding yourself of the children
+of De Montfort." "Ah! cruel and perverse woman,"
+exclaimed Clisson; "if you live long, you will destroy
+the honour and property of your children;"
+and he accompanied his words with such violent
+menaces, that, seized with affright, she fled from his
+presence, and falling down, broke her thigh. The
+prophecy of Clisson was fulfilled, as we shall later
+relate. The ancient château in which he died was
+destroyed by Henry IV.; the present building was
+raised by Alain IX., Vicomte de Rohan, through
+Alain VIII., who married Beatrix, eldest daughter of
+the Constable, by which Josselin descended to the
+Rohans,<a id="noteref_21" name="noteref_21" href="#note_21"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">21</span></span></a> a house yielding to none in antiquity
+and illustration, being descended from the ancient
+sovereigns of Brittany, and allied with all the crowned
+heads of Europe,—"Princes of Bretagne" they were
+styled. But the Rohan family became unpopular
+in the duchy, when John II. attached himself to
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page211">[pg 211]</span><a name="Pg211" id="Pg211" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Louis XI. and France, for the bribe of 8000 livres
+to himself and 4000 to his wife.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the battle of St. Aubin du Cormier, which
+sealed the fate of Brittany, the Vicomte du Rohan
+betrayed his brother-in-law Duke Francis and the
+national cause, and fought on the side of France.
+He afterwards marched at the head of the French
+troops, and besieged Guingamp, where its brave
+defenders declared, "As long as there is a duchess
+in Brittany, we will not give up her towns." But
+they took Pontrieux and Concarneau, and in 1491
+the Vicomte du Rohan was appointed by Charles VIII.
+Lieutenant-General in Lower Brittany.  He was
+called by his countrymen the "Felon Prince;" and
+so detested was he and his race, that it passed into
+a proverb to say of a mean, treacherous, dishonest
+person, "Il mange à l'auge comme Rohan,"—"He
+eats at the manger (that is, the table of the King of
+France) like Rohan." "Un peu de jactance," therefore,
+justly observes Daru, in the proud motto of
+the Rohans:—<a id="noteref_22" name="noteref_22" href="#note_22"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">22</span></span></a></p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Roi ne puis,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Prince ne daigne,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Rohan je suis.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image43.jpg" width="551" height="404" alt="" title="43. Château of Josselin." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">43. Château of Josselin.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The château of Josselin stands by a river, on which
+side it presents piles of towers and fortifications
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page212">[pg 212]</span><a name="Pg212" id="Pg212" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+covered with slate, a severe specimen of military
+architecture; while on the other side, the cour
+d'honneur, we see one of the handsomest châteaux
+of the Renaissance yet remaining in Brittany. This
+façade is richly ornamented with sculptures of varied
+and fanciful design.  Immense gurgoyles, in the
+form of serpents, stretching from the roof to the
+base, pierced <span class="tei tei-corr">balustrades</span> or galleries of lace-like
+delicacy, in which are introduced, according to the
+fashion of the period, the initial letters of the Vicomte
+Alain, A and V interlaced. The old Rohan motto,
+"À plus," and the escutcheon of gules, nine mascles
+or lozenges, occur in every part of this gorgeous
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page213">[pg 213]</span><a name="Pg213" id="Pg213" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+front, and also on the finely-carved chimneypiece of
+the reception room (salle d'honneur). The whole
+of the château is in course of restoration by the
+Prince de Léon.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the church of Josselin is the tomb of the Constable
+Clisson, with that of Marguerite de Rohan
+his wife; both statues were mutilated in the Revolution,
+but are now restored: they are of white
+marble on a black slab. Clisson is in armour,
+Marguerite has her hair plaited and confined in
+a network of pearls; she wears a long robe, with a
+surcoat above, furred with ermine. The motto,
+"Pour ce qu'il me plest (plait)," is in an oratory
+which belonged to Clisson, expressing his haughty
+and overbearing will. This same motto appears on
+his seal, affixed to a letter preserved in the archives
+of the empire, and he is recorded to have had it
+inscribed upon his Constable's sword, which, like
+Du Guesclin, he always wore unsheathed, to show
+he was ready at all times to fight the enemies of the
+crown.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There hangs in the church a picture of the finding
+of the image Notre Dame-du-Roncier, of which
+we relate the legend:—</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Long before Josselin was a town, a poor labourer
+had remarked, on the spot where now stands the
+church of Notre Dame, a bramble bush, which the
+frost and snow of the roughest winters never deprived
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page214">[pg 214]</span><a name="Pg214" id="Pg214" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of its leaves, but it always remained fresh and green.
+Surprised at this strange phenomenon, he dug the
+soil under the bramble, and discovered a wooden
+statue of the Virgin. A marvellous light played
+round the head of the image. The man carried it
+home; but next morning, to his surprise, he found
+the statue under the same bush whence he had taken
+it. The miracle was repeated several times, and
+soon attracted crowds of devotees. A chapel was
+built to deposit the sacred image, houses followed
+next, and a little town gradually formed, which the
+Comte de Porhoët surrounded with walls, and Josselin,
+his son, endowed with his name, 1030. Such
+was the rise of Josselin. A celebrated pilgrimage
+still exists to Josselin on Whit Tuesday, resorted to
+by crowds of "aboyeuses" or barkers, people possessed
+with this kind of epilepsy, said to be hereditary
+in several families, and which is accounted for
+from the circumstance of a party of washerwomen
+having refused a glass of water to the Vierge du
+Ronçier, who went to them disguised in the garb of
+a beggar. The merciless creatures set their dogs
+upon the pretended mendicant, and thus brought
+down upon themselves and their posterity this fearful
+malediction. The disease is supposed to return
+periodically about Whitsuntide, and only to leave
+the afflicted when they are carried forcibly to the
+sanctuary of Notre Dame to press with their foaming
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page215">[pg 215]</span><a name="Pg215" id="Pg215" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+lips the fragments still remaining of the ancient
+miraculous statue which was burnt upon the public
+Place in the time of the French Revolution.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left Ploërmel at four o'clock in the morning
+for Montfort-sur-Mer, passing through Plélan; while
+the horses baited at a little auberge we got some hot
+coffee, and found a good fire in the kitchen. The
+landlady, shut in her "lit clos," did not disturb herself,
+but occasionally put out her head to give
+directions for our breakfast. On the left of the
+road is the forest of Paimpont, which formerly extended
+from Montfort to Rostrenan, a kind of neutral
+desert land, called Brocéliande, and famous,
+under that name, in the history of King Arthur.
+It was the theatre of the fairies' most wondrous
+enchantments. Here was the fountain of Youth
+and also that of Barenton, where they came every
+day to draw water in an emerald basin. Here, too,
+the enchanted Merlin has lain sleeping for centuries,
+enthralled by his pupil the fairy Viviana, who has
+cast a spell upon her master she knows not how to
+break.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Montfort, where we joined the railway, is celebrated
+for the legend of the duck and its ducklings,
+and was the residence of the De Montfort family
+until Guy Comte de Laval and Sire de Montfort
+married Françoise de Dinan, widow of the unfortunate
+Gilles de Bretagne, when the Montforts left
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page216">[pg 216]</span><a name="Pg216" id="Pg216" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+their paternal demesne for the châteaux of Laval,
+Vitré, and Châteaubriant.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The railway took us to Rennes, an uninteresting
+modern French town, the old town was burnt down
+in 1720, and straight streets have risen up, with no
+traces of its having been once the ancient capital of
+Brittany. Indeed, so French is it altogether, that
+the saying runs—"Bon Breton de Vannes, bon
+Français de Rennes." It was here that Constance,
+heiress of the duchy, held her court, with Geoffrey
+Plantagenet, who, with their unfortunate son Arthur,
+were the only Plantagenets, dukes of Brittany. On
+the murder of Arthur, his sister Alice carried the
+ducal crown to her husband, Pierre de Dreux (called
+Mauclerc, from his animosity to the clergy), and
+from them descended the dukes of Brittany down to
+Queen Anne, whose double marriage conveyed the
+duchy to France and the Valois.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When Henry IV. made his solemn entry into
+Rennes, the Governor presented him with the three
+silver-gilt keys of the city, of rich workmanship;
+upon which the King observed, "Elles étaient
+belles, mais qu'il aimait mieux les clefs des cœurs
+des habitants."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following year we made a tour along the
+banks of the Loire, and at Angers embarked on
+board the steamer for Nantes. The scenery down
+the Loire is rich, and the hills covered with vineyards,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page217">[pg 217]</span><a name="Pg217" id="Pg217" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+islands planted with willows, and sunny villages,
+or occasionally a gloomy fortress comes to
+view. Ingrandes is the frontier town, half in Anjou
+and half in Brittany, between the modern departments
+of Loire Inférieure and Maine-et-Loire.
+Lower down is St. Florent (Maine-et-Loire), with
+its recollections of the wonderful passage of the
+Loire by the Vendean army, so graphically related
+by Madame de la Rochejacquelin, and near the
+island of Meilleraie, where their brave General Bonchamps
+expired, after the fatal engagement of Chollet;
+his last act being the saving the lives of four
+thousand prisoners shut up in the church, and about
+to be executed by the exasperated Vendeans. "Grâce
+aux prisonniers" were his dying words. Opposite
+St. Florent is Varades, where the Vendeans landed
+after crossing the Loire. Only a feeble post opposed
+them. Had the republicans lost less time, and sent
+a force after their victory at Chollet, much calamity
+would have been spared to Brittany, and the Royalists
+themselves would have been saved the terrible
+defeats of Le Mans and Savenay.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Passing Ancenis, which rises in an amphitheatre
+on the vine-clothed hills, and, with its suspension-bridge,
+is one of the most picturesque points in the
+river, we reached Oudon, with its tall octagonal
+tower; on the left, in the department of Maine-et-Loire,
+nearly opposite, stands the ruined castle of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page218">[pg 218]</span><a name="Pg218" id="Pg218" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Champtoceaux, where Duke John V. was kept a
+prisoner by the implacable enemies of his house, the
+Penthièvre family.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Marguerite de Clisson, widow of Jean de Bretagne,
+Comte de Penthièvre, lived in retirement in
+her stately fortress of Champtoceaux, with her three
+sons, Oliver, Count of Blois, and his brothers. Marguerite
+inherited the pride, hatred, and cruelty, of her
+father, without his chivalrous loyalty and magnanimity.
+The kingdom was filled with troubles, and
+she thought it a favourable moment for reviving
+the pretensions of her family. John V. held his
+court at Nantes. She sent Oliver there to assure
+the Duke that his mother and brother were ready
+to do him homage; and he swore, on his own part,
+"de le servir envers et contre tous ceux qui peuvent
+vivre et mourir." John, delighted, made the young
+man share his bed, and treated him with the greatest
+distinction. Oliver expressed his regret that the age
+and infirmities of his mother prevented her going to
+court, and timidly insinuated the honour she would
+feel at a visit from the Duke. The Duke consented,
+and, sending off his plate to Champtoceaux,
+started with his brother-in-law, Count Oliver, and
+his attendants. Having passed the little river which
+separates Anjou from Brittany, they saw a man
+throwing the planks of the bridge into the water,
+and thus preventing the Duke's suite from following.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page219">[pg 219]</span><a name="Pg219" id="Pg219" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+At the same time, Charles de Penthièvre, Margaret's
+second son, issued suddenly from a wood with an
+escort of lances and surrounded the Duke. There
+was no kind of indignity they did not make him
+suffer. He was tied upon his horse like a criminal,
+and conducted first to Clisson, Oliver leading him
+with a halter round his neck. The Penthièvres,
+who would not let the place be guessed where they
+held their captive, conducted him at night, sometimes
+on foot, from fortress to fortress, from dungeon
+to dungeon; at the same time circulating the
+report that they had drowned him in the Loire. As
+a last insult, they took him to Champtoceaux, where
+Marguerite visited him in prison to exult over his
+misfortunes. Meantime the Breton barons, indignant
+at the treason of which their Sovereign was the
+victim, raised an army for his deliverance, and civil
+war broke out with redoubled fury. His heroic
+wife, Jeanne de France, showed an untiring energy
+to save him. Undaunted by the threats of the
+Penthièvres,—who sent word to her, if she did not
+desist from hostilities they would cut her husband
+in pieces, nor by the messages from the Duke himself
+assuring her that her zeal would cost him his life,—she
+induced her brother, the Dauphin, to order the
+Penthièvres not to attempt the life of their prisoner;
+she besieged, one after the other, all their castles, and
+at last compelled Marguerite to capitulate to save
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page220">[pg 220]</span><a name="Pg220" id="Pg220" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+her own life. Finding herself and family in a perilous
+position, Marguerite agreed that the Duke should
+be released (he was at Clisson), and that she and her
+sons should retire where they wished, on their promise
+to appear at the summons of the Breton nobles.
+Immediately on his liberation, Duke John ordered
+the destruction of Champtoceaux. A parliament
+assembled at Vannes in 1424, condemned Marguerite
+and her sons to capital punishment, and
+declared all the Penthièvre possessions to be forfeited
+to the State. But the culprits had all escaped
+the kingdom, except the youngest son, William, a
+child only ten years of age, who had been given as
+a hostage for the appearance of his mother and
+brothers, and was condemned to languish for twenty-seven
+years in prison, where he lost his eyesight—a
+victim to crimes in which he had not been an accomplice.
+John had made a vow, during his detention,
+to give, if he regained his liberty, to the church of
+Notre Dame at Nantes, his weight in gold; and
+most conscientiously did he perform his promise, for
+we read, "He placed himself in his war armour in
+the balance, and caused the opposite scale to be
+filled with gold till it had attained the weight of the
+first; that is to say, three hundred and eighty marks,
+seven ounces"—which sum was delivered over to
+the church. Vows of this nature are not unfrequently
+recorded. When Don Carlos, the ill-fated
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page221">[pg 221]</span><a name="Pg221" id="Pg221" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+son of Philip II., lay ill, he vowed to give to the
+Virgin, on his recovery, four times his weight in gold
+plate, and seven times his weight in silver. The
+vow was fulfilled; but the Prince was placed in the
+scale in a damask robe and fur coat, and weighed
+only seventy-six pounds—so much was he reduced
+by his long illness.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nantes is a cheerful, busy, handsome city, but
+wanting in the picturesque characteristics of the
+towns of Lower Brittany. Quimper, Vannes, Rennes,
+and Nantes, have all been successively capitals of
+the duchy, but Nantes was the usual residence of its
+dukes.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The cathedral contains its principal artistic monument,
+the tomb of Duke Francis II. and his second
+wife, Marguerite de Foix, called "sein de lys," from
+the beauty of her complexion. It was erected by
+their daughter, the Queen-Duchess Anne, and was
+executed by Michel Colomb, a sculptor of St. Pol
+de Léon, originally a herd-boy. This monument,
+considered a masterpiece of the Renaissance, is not
+copied from any Italian original, but is entirely the
+offspring of the artist's own fancy. There is much
+simplicity in its design and execution. The tomb,
+about five feet high, is of white marble, diapered
+with ermine and the letter F. On a black slab
+repose the effigies of the Duke and Duchess, and
+at their feet are lying a lion and a greyhound, holding
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page222">[pg 222]</span><a name="Pg222" id="Pg222" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+their several escutcheons. Four large allegorical
+figures are at each angle of the tomb, representing
+the cardinal virtues. Justice carries the book of
+the laws, and the sword by which she makes them
+respected. This figure is said to be the portrait of
+the Duchess Anne. Temperance, in a monastic
+dress, is characterised by a bit and a lantern. Prudence,
+double faced, holds a mirror and a compass,
+and has a serpent at her feet. This figure is in the
+costume of a peasant girl of St. Pol; the second
+face, that of an old man, is also in the dress of
+Lower Brittany. Strength or Fortitude, handsome,
+resolute, and calm, strangles a dragon with his
+grasp.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Upon the principal sides of the tomb are the
+twelve Apostles, and below, in niches, sixteen
+mourners (pleureuses) in monastic habits, the faces
+and hands white, the rest of the body black. The
+beautiful attitude of these figures is much admired.
+Some are kneeling, others are seated—all in the
+attitude and expression of prayer. This monument
+was originally in the church of the Carmelites,
+whence it was transferred to the cathedral.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Besides the remains of Duke Francis and his two
+wives, it formerly contained the heart of his daughter,
+the Queen-Duchess Anne, enshrined in a golden
+case in the form of a heart, surmounted by a crown,
+and surrounded by a cordelière; but the tomb was
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page223">[pg 223]</span><a name="Pg223" id="Pg223" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+rifled during the Reign of Terror. It now holds
+the remains of the Constable Duke Arthur III.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Duke John IV. also died at Nantes, after his long
+eventful reign, having acquired a military glory
+which earned him the name of Conqueror, and
+equalled that of Du Guesclin and Clisson. Twice
+he lost and twice he regained his crown. He alienated
+Du Guesclin and his faithful subjects by his
+partiality to England. The Bretons rose, and he
+fled to Edward III.; but when Charles V. entered
+the duchy, with the intention of confiscating it
+to the crown of France, the Bretons all united to
+defend their nationality against the ambition of the
+French King, and recalled their Sovereign. So great
+was the enthusiasm on his arrival at St. Malo, that
+the nobles plunged into the water to approach his
+ship; and even the widow of his rival, Charles of
+Blois, went to welcome him. His cowardly attempt
+against the Constable Clisson again compromised
+his reputation, and was disgracefully avenged upon
+his son by the implacable daughter of Clisson.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The old ducal castle still rises on the left bank of
+the river. It was here Anne of Brittany was born,
+and here she married, 1499, her old admirer, the
+chivalrous Duke of Orleans, then King Louis XII.,
+according to her stipulation, that the King, "viendra
+l'espouser en sa maison de Nantes." Left at the
+age of eleven, by the death of her father, a prey to
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page224">[pg 224]</span><a name="Pg224" id="Pg224" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+claimants to her hand, which carried with it the
+powerful duchy of Brittany, Anne was a prize worth
+a king's seeking, even at a time when there were so
+many other rich heiresses undisposed of—Mary of
+Burgundy, Elizabeth of York, Isabella of Castille,
+and Catherine de Foix. Anne is described as handsome,
+but slightly lame, generous, and gentle, but
+grave and proud in her demeanour. Louis XII.
+called her his "fière Bretonne," and allowed her the
+uncontrolled government of Brittany, "tout ainsi
+que si elle n'estoit point sa femme."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Though the wife of two Kings of France, Anne
+never forgot the interests of her duchy, whose
+nationality she always strove to maintain with the
+pertinacity of a true Breton, and showed herself, by
+her spirit and independence, to be the most worthy
+of all her race to wear the ducal crown. Jean
+Marot addresses her as "Royne incomparable, deux
+fois devinement sacrée, Anne Duchesse de Bretagne."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Like most of the ladies of her age, Anne was an
+accomplished linguist. She understood Latin and
+Greek, and most of the European languages. She
+corresponded with her husband in Latin verse. Her
+letters, still extant, breathe the most tender affection.
+One, written to him (1499) during the Italian wars,
+begins, "Une épouse tendre et chérie écrit à son
+époux encore plus chéri, l'objet à la fois de ses regrets
+et de son estime, conduit par la gloire loin de sa
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page225">[pg 225]</span><a name="Pg225" id="Pg225" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+patrie. Amante infortunée, il n'est pour elle aucun
+instant sans alarmes. Quel malheur affreux que
+celui d'être privé d'un Prince que l'on aime, d'un
+Prince plus amant qu'époux."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was in this castle that Henry IV. signed his
+celebrated Edict of Nantes, so fatally revoked by
+Louis XIV.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Duc de Mercœur, when governor of Brittany,
+made Nantes a regular fortified town. Having
+married Marie de Luxembourg, heiress of the house
+of Penthièvre, he sought to secure to himself the
+duchy of Brittany, while his brother, the Duke de
+Guise, aimed at the crown of France. Head of the
+League in that province, he looked upon it as a
+means of attaining his end: his wife joined him in
+his plans of ambition, and they by turns tyrannized
+and caressed the Nantais, amusing them with fêtes,
+in which the Duchess condescended to dance with
+the townsfolk. For twenty years Mercœur held the
+province; but a peace was eventually signed between
+him and Henry IV., through the mediation of
+Gabrielle d'Estrées, whose son César de Vendôme,
+then four years of age, was affianced to the Duke
+de Mercœur's daughter, then only six.  When
+Henry IV. made his entry into Nantes after the
+pacification, he observed, on surveying the fortifications,
+"Ventre Saint Gris, les Ducs de Bretagne
+n'étaient pas de petits compagnons."</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page226">[pg 226]</span><a name="Pg226" id="Pg226" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nantes has been the scene of many an act of
+vengeance on the part of the Kings of France.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Place du Bouffay, the place of execution,
+was the scene of the tragic death of the young
+Henri de Talleyrand, Comte de Chalais, executed by
+Louis XIII. for his part in the conspiracy which
+bears his name. Its object was the death of the
+Cardinal, and to place the crown on the head of the
+feeble Gaston, who was celebrating his marriage at
+Nantes at the time that his victim Chalais was
+paying the penalty of his crime.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The restless, intriguing Cardinal de Retz was imprisoned
+in Nantes Castle during the minority of
+Louis XIV., and made a wonderful escape by letting
+himself down from the walls to the river, where a
+boat awaited him. It was also at Nantes that the
+same monarch caused Fouquet to be arrested, not,
+as alleged, for his malpractices in office, but because
+his ambition and pomp offended the pride of his
+royal master.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For their part in the conspiracy of Cellamare, the
+Marquis de Poncallec and three other Breton gentlemen
+suffered on the Place du Bouffay, and the
+Vendean chief, La Charette, was also there shot
+in 1795.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Not far from the castle is the Rue Haute du
+Château. At the Maison Juigny, in this street,
+the Duchesse de Berri was arrested, after having
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page227">[pg 227]</span><a name="Pg227" id="Pg227" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+remained sixteen hours concealed in an aperture
+behind a chimney on the third floor, scarcely a foot
+and a half high and four feet long. The police,
+having information of her being in the house,
+through the treachery of a Jew, had made a fruitless
+search, but had left a watch behind. The soldiers
+lighted a fire in the chimney, and the Duchess, with
+her three attendants, sallied out, her dress completely
+scorched. They had endured the heat, but were
+unable to bear the suffocation.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nantes has some fine promenades and boulevards,
+planted with trees. In the Cours Saint Pierre and
+St. André are statues of the Duchess Anne and of
+the three Breton constables, Du Guesclin, Clisson,
+and Richmont.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">One of the leading characteristics of Nantes is its
+numerous bridges: a regular chain of them form a
+continuous line across the river and canals, and others
+unite the islands which form the suburbs to the town
+itself.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Museum contains a large collection of pictures,
+which the bequest of the Duke de Feltre
+(Maréchal Clarke) has increased considerably. These
+consist mostly of sketches by Paul Delaroche, and
+the charming Italian subjects of Léopold Robert.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">"L'enfant charitable"—a nun on her deathbed
+embracing a child who is standing by her side, an
+angel behind—is a touching composition of Ary
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page228">[pg 228]</span><a name="Pg228" id="Pg228" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Schäeffer. Another, by Paul Baudry, represents the
+death of Marat: Charlotte Corday's open, handsome
+face, looks incapable of the crime she has just perpetrated.
+There is one by Ziegler—Daniel in the
+lion's den—an angel staying the lions from molesting
+him. The atmosphere of light surrounding the
+angel is wonderful and unearthly. These two are
+in the general collection, together with numerous
+examples of the old masters.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Near our hotel is one of the curiosities of Nantes,
+the Passage de la Pommeraye, consisting of three
+stories of iron galleries or arcades, uniting the Rue
+de Crébillon with the Rue de la Fosse. The second
+arcade communicates by a flight of stairs with the
+third, called the Galerie de la Fosse, opening upon
+the street of that name.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Garden of Plants is beautifully laid out; groves
+and avenues of magnolias in full flower, with rocks,
+waterfalls, rustic bridges, all most picturesquely disposed,
+making it one of the prettiest gardens and
+public promenades in France.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We descended the Loire by steamer, passing by
+vast granite buildings, built as magazines for colonial
+imports, called Les Salorges, in front of which the
+horrible noyades of Carrier took place, and these
+warehouses served as a temporary place of confinement
+for the victims. We next steamed past the
+island of Indret, the great manufacture of steam-engines
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page229">[pg 229]</span><a name="Pg229" id="Pg229" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+for the State. Here we landed some market
+women, in caps of the same form, with high combs,
+as those of clear muslin worn by the Nantaises,
+only of a coarse material, and edged with black.
+On the right was Couëron, where Duke Francis II.
+died in consequence of a fall from his horse. The
+battle of St. Aubin-du-Cormier had decided his fate
+and that of his daughters,—a humiliation from which
+he never recovered. His faithful friend Rieux, who
+commanded his army, defeated by the youthful Louis
+de la Trémouille; the chivalrous Louis of Orleans, a
+prisoner in an iron cage in the "Grosse Tour" at
+Bourges; and the safety of his daughters at the mercy
+of King Charles VIII., or worse, of his imperious
+sister, the Regent Anne de Beaujeu, who would have
+committed some act of spoliation, had not the
+Chancellor Rochefort saved the duchy by his integrity,
+declaring to Anne that "a conqueror without
+right is but an illustrious robber."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Les Pellerins, barges were loading with hay,
+and heaps of it standing on the river's edge ready for
+embarkation. On the left bank is Paimbœuf, where
+diligences run to Pornic, a favourite little watering-place
+south of the Loire.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Nazaire is a bustling seaport town, now the
+point of departure of the transatlantic steamers for the
+West Indies and Mexico. A Mexican, in his picturesque
+costume, all the seams of his dress fringed
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page230">[pg 230]</span><a name="Pg230" id="Pg230" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+with hanging silver buttons, was living in the same
+hotel with ourselves. St. Nazaire has now a large
+floating basin, opened in 1858, capable of holding
+200 ships of large size, and another is in course of
+construction.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was from St. Nazaire that Prince Charles, the
+young Pretender, sailed on the adventurous expedition
+of '45, furnished with a frigate and a ship of
+the line by Mr. Walsh, of Nantes. Among the
+noble cavaliers who had sacrificed everything to
+follow the Stuarts into exile was the Walsh family,
+originally from Ireland. They had shared the wandering
+fortunes of Charles II., returned with him at
+the Restoration to find the greater part of their
+property confiscated; but they did not hesitate to
+sacrifice the rest when James II. abdicated the throne,
+and a Walsh commanded the ship which carried
+the King to France. Sent on a secret mission to
+England, he was recognized, denounced, and arrested.
+James II. created him an Earl at St. Germain. Two
+of his sons had retired to St. Malo and Nantes, and
+engaged in commercial speculations, endeavouring
+thereby to restore the fortunes of their house. Commerce
+was strictly forbidden to the Breton nobles;
+but, when war or misfortune had reduced their fortunes,
+they were allowed to enter into commerce, or
+any other profession, without derogating from their
+rank, provided they first deposited their swords with
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page231">[pg 231]</span><a name="Pg231" id="Pg231" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the Parliament, to be again claimed when their circumstances
+were improved. All will remember the
+anecdote in the 'Sentimental Journey.' As a book,
+called 'The State of Nobility in Brittany,' published
+in 1681, sets forth: "When nobles are engaged in
+commerce, their noble blood sleeps; but when the
+derogatory works are over, it revives. It is never
+lost but in death." But to return to the Walsh
+family. One of the brothers had embarked the
+remains of his little fortune in the business of "armateur"—a
+kind of shipowner, or one who fits out
+and charters ships, and sometimes commands them
+himself—the profession of Jean Bart and Duguay
+Trouin.<a id="noteref_23" name="noteref_23" href="#note_23"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">23</span></span></a>
+It was to this Anthony Walsh, and a banker
+of Dunkirk, that Prince Charles addressed himself to
+fit out an old worm-eaten seventy-gun man-of-war, the
+'Elizabeth,' they had just obtained from Government
+for his expedition. True to the hereditary loyalty
+of his family, Mr. Walsh not only devoted all he
+possessed to the armament of the frigate, but also
+fitted out a brig, called the 'Doutelle'—both intended
+as privateers to cruise against the English—and
+took the command of her himself. On the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page232">[pg 232]</span><a name="Pg232" id="Pg232" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+28th June, 1745, furnished with about 4000l. of
+money, Charles Edward embarked on the Loire, in
+a fisherman's boat, to join the 'Doutelle' at St.
+Nazaire, and the 'Elizabeth' at Belle-Isle. He
+passed for a young Irish priest, and wore the habit
+of a student of the Scots' College at Paris. The
+ships encountered an English man-of-war, the 'Lion.'
+At the sound of the first shot, the Prince rushed on
+deck and asked for a sword. Mr. Walsh, by virtue
+of his authority as captain, took him by the arm and
+said to him sternly, "M. Abbé, your place is not
+here; go below with the passengers." The Prince
+obeyed, night separated the combatants, and on the
+18th of July he was safely landed in Scotland. On
+Michaelmas Day, the following year, the disasters of
+Culloden again threw him an exile on the shores
+of Brittany.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From St. Nazaire we took a carriage for Guérande,
+to visit that remarkable district called the Canton de
+Croisic, and consisting chiefly of that place and the
+Bourg de Batz. We first came to Escoublac, a
+corruption of Episcopi lacus, deriving its name from
+a lake belonging to the bishop of the diocese.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The old town has been entirely buried by the
+moving sands which have blown over it, and, in
+1779, its inhabitants transferred their houses to the
+present site. Hills of sand surround it in every
+direction.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page233">[pg 233]</span><a name="Pg233" id="Pg233" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Here we left the high road, and turned off to the
+left to Poulignan, a little white bay, as its name implies;
+a charming retreat, with beautiful white sands
+and picturesque rocks. This is a favourite watering-place
+with the Nantais. Its whole population appeared
+to be in the water. A row of small wooden
+châlets are built along the shore for the bathers, no
+machines are used.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Escoublac begins the large extent of salt-pans
+in which consist the riches of this country.
+They reach to Batz and Le Croisic, the peninsula
+which forms this district having formerly been an
+island which gradually has been transformed into a
+marsh.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image44.jpg" width="618" height="363" alt="" title="44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These salt-pans, cut out into small squares, have
+the appearance of one great chess-board, interspersed
+with occasional hamlets and woods. The
+working of them employs the whole population of
+the district.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">They consist of large basins, dug at different
+depths, into which the water of the sea is introduced,
+and are divided into squares called "œillets."
+The salt-water is turned upon the marsh by canals
+styled "étiers," edged with narrow paths or roads
+called "bossis," elevated, some of them, three or four
+feet above the marsh; on these the newly collected
+salt is generally laid. The water passes by a subterranean
+conduit, the "coëf," into the "vasière,"
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page234">[pg 234]</span><a name="Pg234" id="Pg234" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+where the first evaporation takes place; and then
+successively into the "cobiers," "fares," and "adernemètres,"
+until it flows finally into the "œillets,"
+where the salt is definitively formed. Each "œillet"
+is about 20 feet by 30.  The heat of the sun
+and the wind effect the evaporation, which the
+paludier assists by stirring the water from time to
+time. The salt which forms on the surface resembles
+a kind of white cream, and exhales an
+agreeable perfume resembling violets. This is the
+finest salt; that which falls to the bottom of the
+salt-pan is of a greyish cast. The salt when formed
+is then scraped off, drained, and the women collect
+it and stack it on the "bossis" into conical heaps,
+which they cover with a coating of clay, to render
+them impervious to weather. In the salting season,
+the salt marshes with their innumerable hillocks of
+white salt have the appearance of a vast tent-covered
+camp. Each "œillet" produces about 150 lbs. of
+salt. The same salt-pans are worked from century to
+century by the same "paludiers" or their descendants.
+The proprietors may change, but the workmen
+remain, considering the salt-pans their prescriptive
+inheritance. For payment, they receive one-fourth of
+the salt. The dress of the paludier is a smock-frock
+of irreproachable whiteness, with pockets, white shoes,
+gaiters, and linen breeches, an enormous black flap
+hat turned up on the side in a point or horn. The
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page235">[pg 235]</span><a name="Pg235" id="Pg235" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page236">[pg 236]</span><a name="Pg236" id="Pg236" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page237">[pg 237]</span><a name="Pg237" id="Pg237" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+young man wears the point over the ear, the married
+turns it behind, and the widower in front. We
+reached the Bourg de Batz in time for vespers, and
+had an opportunity of seeing the people in their
+Sunday dress. The men wear three or four cloth
+waistcoats, all of different lengths, so as to let the
+various colours, red, white, and blue, with which
+they are bound, appear one above the other in
+tiers, a muslin turnover collar, full plaited breeches
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page238">[pg 238]</span><a name="Pg238" id="Pg238" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of fine cloth tied at the knee by garters of floating
+ribbon, white woollen stockings with worked clocks
+and light yellow shoes, their flap hats ornamented
+with a roll of chenille of varied colours. The headdress
+of the women is singular and most intricate.
+The hair, in two rolls, twisted round with white tape,
+forms a kind of coronet across their heads; over
+this, a piece of net is drawn tight, forming a sort of
+cap, describing a peak behind, and crossing in front
+like a handkerchief.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image45.jpg" width="360" height="536" alt="" title="45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The dress consists of several petticoats of cloth
+plaited, red body, turned-up sleeves, and large
+coloured bibs or plastrons which they call "pièces,"
+of the same stuff as their dresses. The girls' aprons
+are plain, without pockets, but the women's are of
+coloured silk, some of a rich brocade. A shawl
+with fringed border completes the costume. Some
+of the women had their heads and shoulders wrapped
+up in a triangular, black, shaggy sheepskin mantle;
+these were widows.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the inn where we alighted, they keep the splendid
+costumes worn by the people at weddings and other
+great occasions; and, by paying them for their
+trouble, they will put them on for inspection. The
+bride's costumes are of great magnificence; they
+array themselves in three different dresses on their
+wedding-day. First, a gown of white velvet, with
+apron of moire antique; secondly, one of violet
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page239">[pg 239]</span><a name="Pg239" id="Pg239" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+velvet; and the third equally costly. Embroidered
+sleeves, the "pièce" of cloth of gold, the petticoats
+looped up with a wide sash, embroidered in gold,
+and gold clocks to the stockings.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image46.jpg" width="348" height="524" alt="" title="46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We were shown a state bed, or "lit de mariage,"
+a tall four-post, painted red, with green reps tester
+and curtains, embroidered with yellow chenille.
+The great sign of wealth is to have the bedding
+reach to the top of the bedstead.  To effect this,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page240">[pg 240]</span><a name="Pg240" id="Pg240" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the base is formed of bundles of vine-stalks, over
+which is spread the straw, and when this scaffolding
+has been raised some feet, a paillasse is placed
+over it, then the feather-bed, so that it literally
+requires a ladder to ascend to the top of this mountain
+of bedding, and then it is difficult to crawl
+into it. There were a bolster and two pillows
+covered with velvet, which, with the sheets, were
+all trimmed with a kind of lace or cutwork.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The houses are solidly built of granite, and
+slated; the windows large. The furniture is good,
+generally comprising a well-waxed carved oak
+armoire, upon which are arranged earthenware plates
+of various colours.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The paludiers of Batz preserve their original type
+distinct from the peasants of the environs; and
+form, like the Jews, a separate people, intermarrying
+among themselves, retaining their own peculiar
+manners and customs. They are supposed to descend
+from a Saxon colony. The paludier is tall
+in stature; their women remarkable for their fair
+complexions, which contrast strongly with their
+sunburnt neighbours. They are loyal and devout,
+true to their word, courageous and enduring;
+though the paludier is miserably poor, from the
+oppressiveness of the salt-tax, he never complains.
+Begging is unknown. Their food consists of rye
+bread, porridge of black corn, potatoes, and shellfish.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page241">[pg 241]</span><a name="Pg241" id="Pg241" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+They are sober, and drink wine in small
+quantities.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Formerly the salt was distributed over the adjacent
+provinces by means of "saulniers," the journeymen
+labourers of the paludiers. Dressed in their picturesque
+costume, with a train of mules, whose
+tinkling bells announced their arrival, the saulnier
+was welcomed in every village where he sold his salt
+or exchanged it for other merchandize. "Le sucre
+des pauvres," as salt has been aptly called, was
+severely taxed under the old régime; distributions
+of the "sel royale" were yearly made by the Government
+among the gentry of the provinces, but the
+poor, who had no such privileges, severely felt
+the oppression, and smuggling was consequently
+extensively carried on, and the "faux saulnier," with
+his double bag across his shoulders, secretly sold salt
+upon which the gabelle had not been paid. With
+a faux saulnier originated the great peasant rising in
+Brittany, the Chouan war; a war to which Napoleon
+said, "All preceding wars have been but games."
+Jean, father of the four brothers Cottereau, was a
+maker of wooden shoes, and lived in a forest near
+Laval (Maine). From his solitary life he had acquired
+such sombre, wild, melancholy habits, that
+people gave him the name of Chouan, Maine patois
+for Chat-huant, and his family received the sobriquet
+long before the insurrection of 1792. Jean
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page242">[pg 242]</span><a name="Pg242" id="Pg242" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Cottereau was the most celebrated faux saulnier of
+Maine; he had accidentally killed a revenue officer
+in one of his encounters, and his heroic mother
+made a journey to Versailles, barefooted, "sur le
+cuir de ses pieds," to obtain his pardon. Jean's
+master and patron was guillotined, his two sisters
+shared the same fate, and one of his brothers died
+of his wounds, and his body was disinterred by the
+Revolutionists. These personal wrongs, the treatment
+of the King, the interdiction of the Catholic
+religion, its processions, its bells, the persecution of
+its ministers, all goaded the Breton peasantry to
+revolt; and Jean was the first to fire a gun against a
+Republican at the cry of "Vive le Roi." The rising
+began with a few peasants, armed with a gun or a
+stick, dressed in short breeches open at the knee,
+with leather gaiters, and coloured garters; their long
+hair streaming over the shoulders, their heads
+covered with a wide-brimmed hat, or brown or red
+cap, sabots tipped with iron, and, in cold weather, a
+loose coat of goatskin. The Chouans assembled in
+small bands and attacked the Republicans at night
+in ambuscade, and when they had killed a few
+"Bleus" disappeared among the corn-fields or the
+furze-bushes. Simple peasants, they fought against
+the Republicans in defence of the altar and the
+throne. Their "commandements" ran thus:—</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page243">[pg 243]</span><a name="Pg243" id="Pg243" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Ton Dieu, ton Roy, tu serviras</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Jusqu'à la mort fidèlement.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Docile à tes chefs tu seras,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Afin de vaincre surement.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Sobre et discret te montreras,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Buvant peu, parlant rarement;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">De ton chef jamais n'agiras</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Attendant le commandement;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Violemment rien ne prendras,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mais en payant exactement.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Age et sexe respecteras,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Etant soldat et non brigand.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Les comités corrigeras,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et les mouchards chrétiennement;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Né Breton, tu n'oublieras,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Afin d'agir loyalement.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Dans le succès clement seras;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Dans le malheur, ferme et constant.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Chaque jour ton Dieu tu prieras;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Que peux tu sans son bras puissant?</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Such were the first Chouans: they had no organisation
+until they followed Larochejaquelin and
+the Vendean army to Granville, and accompanied
+them in their retreat; when their numbers were
+materially increased and their character completely
+changed by the deserters and brigands, who joined
+and eventually succeeded the peasantry.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The church of Batz is of cut stone. It has a
+square tower, surmounted by a cupola steeple,
+which with that of Le Croisic serves as a landmark
+to vessels having to steer between the two dangerous
+rocks Le Four, in front of Le Croisic, and Les
+Blanches, situated near the mouth of the Loire.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page244">[pg 244]</span><a name="Pg244" id="Pg244" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The choir is inclined, like that of St. Pol and
+others in Brittany. On one of the bosses in the
+interior is a grotesque carving of a man torn to
+pieces by the seven capital sins. On others are the
+Santa Veronica, the Good Shepherd, Ste. Barbara,
+&amp;c. Near the church are the pretty ruins of the
+chapel of Notre Dame-du-Mûrier.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We drove on to Le Croisic, in Breton, "Little
+Cross;" so called from the small chapel of the
+Crucifix, built to commemorate the baptism by
+St. Felix, Bishop of Nantes, in the sixth century, of
+the Saxon colony who occupied the peninsula. Le
+Croisic was one of the first towns in Brittany which
+received Christianity, and bears for its arms a cross
+between four ermines. Along the road-side are
+cisterns or wells dug in the sand, and girls were filling
+with water the classical stone pitchers they
+carried upon their heads—quite an Eastern picture,
+suggestive of Rebecca and the damsels of her
+country. Le Croisic is almost surrounded by the
+sea, low, and without shelter, which renders it cold,
+damp, and exposed to the winds; turf is almost the
+only fuel used.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is much frequented as a watering-place, and
+has an Etablissement. It is also a sea-port, with a
+rocky entrance to the harbour, and the dangerous
+rock with its lighthouse, called Le Four, extending
+for a league in front. The inhabitants of Le Croisic
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page245">[pg 245]</span><a name="Pg245" id="Pg245" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+are principally engaged in the sardine fishery, and
+the curing of these fish consumes much of the salt
+of the marshes. The people complain this year
+they have no large orders for sardines, and there is
+but little white salt.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The chapel of St. Goustan, on the edge of the
+harbour, is singularly built; its western gable perched
+upon a little rock, half of which is inside and half
+outside the building. The church is no longer
+open for Divine service; but the peasant-girl who
+desires to know if she will be married this year, tries
+to pass a pin through the bars of the northern window
+without touching the wall. On the opposite
+side of the estuary are Périac and La Turbale, both
+seats of the sardine fishery. Returning the way we
+came, we stopped at the Plage Valentin, another
+bathing-place in a pretty little bay; with dressing-rooms
+and a small Etablissement. An omnibus
+conveys the bathers from Le Croisic, for two sous.
+The sea looks more inviting here and at Poulignan
+than at Le Croisic, where there is so much seaweed
+in the harbour. We returned through Batz;
+the cathedral tower of Saint Aubin at Guérande is
+to be seen at a great distance, and is a prominent
+object in the scenery; the whole country is covered
+with salt-pans. Guérande stands on a height,
+and turning back, the view of the whole district is
+most extensive. We passed through Saillé, where
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page246">[pg 246]</span><a name="Pg246" id="Pg246" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Duke John IV. married Joan of Navarre, afterwards
+the second wife of Henry of Lancaster.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Guérande, built on a vine-covered granite slope,
+is a singular old feudal town of the fifteenth century.
+It was fortified by Duke John V., and is
+nearly surrounded by granite walls, with ten towers
+and four old gateways, placed at the cardinal points
+of the compass. St. Michel, the principal gate, or
+rather a fortress, is flanked by two high towers, and
+contains the prison, archives, and hôtel de ville. A
+moat formerly surrounded the walls; but it has long
+been filled in, and boulevards substituted. From
+the battlements hang festoons of honeysuckle and
+ivy, and the moat is full of the yellow iris and water-lilies;
+nevertheless, Guérande has an austere, sombre
+aspect. There is a fine terrace walk, called the
+Mail, commanding a view of the whole country
+over Poulignan, Batz, and Le Croisic—a tented
+plain of salt.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image47.jpg" width="561" height="468" alt="" title="47. La Roche Bernard." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">47. La Roche Bernard.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The church of St. Aubin has Romanesque
+columns, with grotesque capitals. In one, two
+persons are sawing a third, stretched upon a wheel.
+On the left of the double-arched porch, is a pulpit
+outside the church, and there is some good painted
+glass within. Notre Dame Blanche, a chapel of the
+fourteenth century, is a pretty little building with
+stone pulpit and a sculptured group of Notre Dame-de-la-Salette
+with the two peasant children of Alsace.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page247">[pg 247]</span><a name="Pg247" id="Pg247" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Next day, we took a private carriage for La Roche
+Bernard; the road lying over a wide extent of land
+through Herbignac to La Roche Bernard (Morbihan),
+which is most picturesquely situated on a
+rocky height overhanging the Vilaine, here traversed
+by an elegant suspension-bridge, opened in
+1839, about 666 feet long and above 108 feet above
+high-water mark—a terrible dizzy height to cross
+even in calm weather. A few years since, the postman,
+his cart, and horse were all blown over into
+the river, and nothing more was ever heard of them.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page248">[pg 248]</span><a name="Pg248" id="Pg248" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+We went fishing several days in a large étang close
+to La Roche Bernard, and one evening took a
+pretty walk over the hills to another pond situated
+in a lovely secluded valley near a water-mill. La
+Roche Bernard was an early Protestant colony,
+founded by the Sieur d'Andelot, Seigneur of La
+Roche Bernard, brother to Admiral Coligny, and
+one of the firmest supporters of Calvinism. The
+Calvinists used to assemble at his château of Bretesch,
+where the minister of La Roche Bernard
+came to preach to them. D'Andelot and his sister,
+who was equally zealous in the cause, are, it is said,
+interred at La Roche Bernard. Near the Halles is
+a square block of houses; one of timber, with "Voie
+au Duc" inscribed upon it. These houses are said
+to have belonged to a Protestant community, and
+all to communicate with each other.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The evening of our arrival there was a wedding
+supper given at our hotel, the grand dinner having
+taken place elsewhere. The bride wore a white sash,
+with wreaths of white flowers round her Nantais cap.
+After supper the party danced Breton "ronds." The
+dancers form a large ring (grand rond), holding
+each other's hands, which they swing violently as
+they sidle round in a kind of hop-skip-and-a-jump
+step, accompanied by singing in a most monotonous
+tone. This went on until midnight. This kind of
+dance dates, they say, from Celtic times. The music
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page249">[pg 249]</span><a name="Pg249" id="Pg249" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+consists of the biniou or bagpipe, and the flageolet
+or hautboy, sometimes with the addition of a drum.
+The biniou, cornemuse, or bagpipe, is the national
+instrument of western and southern France. How
+it came to be introduced into Scotland and expel
+the harp—which was as much the original music of
+Scotland as of Wales and Ireland—is a mystery. But,
+as in the sixteenth century the harp went out and the
+bagpipes came into fashion, it may be surmised that
+it was brought in, with other French novelties, on the
+return of Queen Mary, perhaps by the Queen herself,
+or, maybe, some itinerant player of the cornemuse
+may have accidentally been in her train, and his
+music set a fashion which has now become national.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On market-day numbers of the women from
+Muzillac, a place about ten miles distant, came in
+with their fruit. They all wear an enormous plaited
+black cap, which looks like the cowl of a friar. The
+graceful form of the earthenware pots attracted our
+attention: probably they came from the adjacent
+town of Herbignac. The 15th August, Fête de la
+Vierge, and also that of the Emperor, was kept as a
+general holiday. An immense concourse of people
+arrived from the neighbourhood, and attended the
+six o'clock mass. We walked to the quay, to see
+the sports on the water; the spectators picturesquely
+grouped on a mass of bare rocks, commanding a
+pretty view up and down the river.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page250">[pg 250]</span><a name="Pg250" id="Pg250" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The amusements consisted of some races, and a
+mât de cocagne, or greased pole, placed horizontally
+over the river; the feat being to walk safely to the
+end, where the prize was fixed, without falling into
+the water. In the evening "ronds" were danced,
+and every house had illuminations, in the shape of a
+candle stuck in a potato, and placed on each end of
+the window sill.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Next day we left by diligence for Vannes, passing
+through Muzillac and on to Auray, where we took
+the steamer for Belle Isle.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A steamer sails daily from the quay at Auray.
+The banks of the River Loch are very picturesque,
+the pine-trees (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Pinus maritima</span></span>) growing to the
+water's edge. On the left, the islands of the Morbihan;
+on the right, Locmariaker; the view extending
+to Carnac and Mont St. Michel, over the
+whole sweep of the bay formed by the peninsula of
+Quiberon.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Port Navalo we emerged from the Morbihan,
+and, on our right, passed the little rocky island of
+Teigneuse, with its lighthouse; and, on the left,
+those of Houat and Haedik (the duck and the
+duckling); the former famous as the retreat of St.
+Gildas, who leaped from here with one bound, a distance
+of ten miles, to the peninsula of Rhuys, where
+he built his monastery. From Auray to Belle Isle
+is in all forty-eight miles—ten miles of river to Port
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page251">[pg 251]</span><a name="Pg251" id="Pg251" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Navalo, the rest open sea. After eight hours' sail
+we reached Le Palais, the port and principal town of
+Belle Isle, built on the north-east side, and overhung
+by the citadel, the work of Vauban. The
+town consists of one principal street—the Rue
+Trochu—so called after the General of that name
+and his brother, who were the first, at the beginning
+of this century, to introduce agriculture into the
+island. We passed, at a distance to the right, the
+model farm of M. Trochu fils, on our way across
+the island to the lighthouse,—a cheerless drive, as
+there are no trees to be seen except near Le Palais.
+When M. Trochu commenced his labours, agriculture
+was little attended to in France, but he persevered
+in his exertions, beginning by clearing about
+sixty acres of granite rock, a land covered with heath
+and furze, setting at defiance the Breton saying,
+"Lande tu fus, lande tu es, lande tu seras." This
+same district is now covered with rich meadows,
+fine woods, productive arable fields, and magnificent
+pasture land, on which horses are extensively
+reared.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image48.jpg" width="590" height="346" alt="" title="48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We gathered on the heathy moor three kinds of
+heath, the Cornish among others. The artichoke
+grows wild in the waste grounds. Wheat, turnips,
+beetroot, Indian corn, and potatoes, are the chief
+produce of the land in cultivation. This last vegetable
+was introduced by the families from Nova
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page252">[pg 252]</span><a name="Pg252" id="Pg252" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Scotia (Acadia), who settled in Belle Isle, after that
+province was ceded to England by the Treaty of
+Paris, in 1766. This was several years before Parmentier
+had extended the use of the potato, or
+"truffe rouge," as it was first called, over other parts
+of France. Indian corn was probably also brought
+in by the Nova Scotians. The leaves are constantly
+cut during its growth as fodder for the cattle, so
+that the cob hardly attains a foot in height from the
+ground. On the left of our road we saw in the distance
+the village of Bangor, which gives its name to
+one of the four districts into which Belle Isle is
+divided. A little south is the fine granite lighthouse,
+of the stupendous height of 450 feet. We toiled
+up 255 steps (223 stone and 32 iron) before we
+gained the lantern, and, though the view was very
+extensive, we were rejoiced at finding ourselves safe
+down. One of the guardians had been waylaid,
+kicked, and beaten, a few evenings before, for some
+slight grudge. He seemed in great suffering, but
+had no doctor; the Breton, in his simple confiding
+faith—that with the Almighty are the issues of life
+and death, and that illness will end according to His
+decree—considers the calling in of a medical adviser
+but an unnecessary expense to his family. From
+the lighthouse we walked to the sea-shore. Belle
+Isle is a table-land, surrounded by steep cliffs,
+averaging 130 feet in height, which can only be
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page253">[pg 253]</span><a name="Pg253" id="Pg253" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page254">[pg 254]</span><a name="Pg254" id="Pg254" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page255">[pg 255]</span><a name="Pg255" id="Pg255" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+descended to the shore in particular places. We
+walked to the Grotte du Port Coton, where begins
+the "Mer Sauvage," as it is called, an extent of five
+to six miles of most picturesque rocks, some elevated
+from 130 to 160 feet above the level of the sea,
+jagged and torn into most fantastic forms by the
+ceaseless dashing of the waters of the Atlantic, which
+have formed various grottoes in the cliffs. We
+descended into one of these caverns by a narrow
+gulley, but could not proceed far, as the tide was
+entering fast, and would soon have surrounded us,
+cutting off all means of retreat.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image49.jpg" width="225" height="292" alt="" title="49. Device of Fouquet." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">49. Device of Fouquet.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It reminded us of the description in the 'Vicomte
+de Bragelonne' of the grotto at Locmaria, which was
+blown up, and crushed the mousquetaire Porthos,
+at the moment of his and Aramis' triumph over the
+soldiers of the King. So great at times is the fury
+of the waves, that our guide at the lighthouse told
+us he had seen on several occasions the spray driven
+over to Le Palais, nearly five miles distant. Continuing
+our walk along the cliffs, we came to an
+enormous mass of rock, standing far out detached
+from the cliff, and covered with screaming sea-gulls.
+We again descended by another fissure into a pretty
+sandy cove, surrounded by the same wild granite
+rocks; but in most places there is no beach at all.
+It was now high water, so it was useless to attempt
+the Grotte des Apothécaires,—the finest, they say, of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page256">[pg 256]</span><a name="Pg256" id="Pg256" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+them all, and we returned to Le Palais well pleased
+with the remarkably wild coast we had seen. Belle-isle
+forms now a canton in the department of Morbihan.
+In ancient days it belonged to the Abbot of
+Saint-Croix, at Quimperlé, who sold it, in the time
+of Charles IX., to the Maréchal de Gondi, and, in
+1573, it was erected into a Marquisate. (Cardinal
+de Retz lived here after his escape from the castle
+of Nantes.) One of his successors, Henri de Gondi,
+being overwhelmed with debt, sold the island to
+Nicolas Fouquet, the ill-fated Superintendent of Finance,
+on whose disgrace, and his being subsequently
+consigned to the fortress of Pignarol, his grandson,
+the Marquis de Belle Isle, exchanged it with
+Louis XV. for the Comté of Gisors, erected into a
+duchy in 1742. Fouquet built a palace and completed
+the citadel, for which he employed Vauban.
+He also projected fortifications to enclose the town,
+which are now in course of completion by the
+Emperor, after Vauban's plans. Several guns had
+just been landed, the day before we visited the
+citadel, to see which an order is requisite. Near
+the citadel is the "Maison centrale des détenus," now
+only containing a few old men, too feeble for hard
+labour. We were too tired to walk to look at the
+celebrated cistern of Vauban, which holds, we were
+told, above thirty thousand imperial gallons of water.
+Fouquet's palace was, it is said, destroyed to complete
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page257">[pg 257]</span><a name="Pg257" id="Pg257" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the line of fortifications. A house was pointed
+out to us as having formed part of the original
+building. Some years since, a stone was picked up
+in the harbour bearing his
+ambitious device—a squirrel,
+with the motto, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Quo non
+ascendum?</span></span> "To where shall
+I not rise?"  The greater
+number of the population of
+Belle Isle are employed in
+the fisheries; of these the
+sardine and the tunny are
+the chief. There are large
+establishments for curing
+sardines, which are very abundant, and lobsters,
+taken in the rocks of Belle Isle and the little islands
+of Houat and Hædic, are sent to London and Paris.
+The boats go as far as Spain, to the coast of Catalonia,
+for the tunny fishery, which extends from
+August to the beginning of October. These fish
+are taken by lines hung along the sides of the vessel,
+with a bell attached to each to give notice of a
+bite. The most esteemed part of the tunny is the
+underneath, or "panse." The next morning we
+sailed back to Auray. The nearest point to Belle
+Isle is Quiberon, only ten miles from Le Palais.
+From Auray by rail to Quimper, where we took the
+diligence to Pont l'Abbé, an old town formerly of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page258">[pg 258]</span><a name="Pg258" id="Pg258" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+some importance, in the midst of a fertile, rich country.
+The costume worn at Pont l'Abbé and along
+the Bay of Audierne is very singular. The cap, or
+"bigouden," is composed of two pieces: first, a kind
+of skull-cap, or serre-tête, fitting tight to the head
+over the ears, then a little round bit, resembling,
+the young people said, a "pork-pie" hat, made of
+starched linen, pinched into a three-cornered peak,
+the middle peak embroidered and tied on by a piece
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page259">[pg 259]</span><a name="Pg259" id="Pg259" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of tape fastening under the chin; the hair is turned
+up, "en chignon," over the skull-cap. The body
+of the dress has a large "pièce" of red or yellow,
+and sleeves to match. The men wear several very
+short coats, one over the other, the shortest trimmed
+with fringe; sometimes sentences are embroidered
+with coloured woollens round the edge. It was
+market day; the women were sitting, with distaff
+and spindle, on each side of the entrance to the Halle.
+Some of them have short bead-chains with a ring,
+attached to the left shoulder, to stick their distaffs in
+when not at work. There was abundance of fruit
+and vegetables, potatoes, and sardines, which, with
+bigoudens and other articles of dress, formed the
+principal commodities for sale. Pont l'Abbé and its
+Port, Loctudy, carry on an extensive trade with
+Jersey, and large quantities of potatoes are exported
+to that island. There were some Jersey merchants
+at the table-d'hôte.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image50.jpg" width="363" height="530" alt="" title="50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abbé." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abbé.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The church of Pont l'Abbé has only one aisle.
+There is a fine rose window over the west entrance,
+of great lightness and richness, with a smaller one at
+the left; at the east end is another rose window of
+larger dimensions, the mullions forming geometric
+patterns, but differing in design from the other. The
+French architects always took great pains in the
+decoration of this part of the church, and these
+wheel windows really rival those of Rouen.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page260">[pg 260]</span><a name="Pg260" id="Pg260" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image51.jpg" width="472" height="642" alt="" title="51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Attached to the church, are the cloisters of the
+Carmelite convent to which the church formerly
+belonged, built in the beginning of the fifteenth
+century by Bertram de Rosmadec, who had so
+much contributed to the completion of the cathedral
+at Quimper. The square is surrounded by an interlaced
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page261">[pg 261]</span><a name="Pg261" id="Pg261" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+circular arcade, forming trefoiled pointed
+arches, all in excellent preservation. The access to
+the cloisters is through the conventual building,
+now a private house and garden, the proprietor
+kindly granting us permission.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We drove to Loctudy, on the mouth of the Pont
+l'Abbé river opposite the little island of Tudy, called
+after an English saint of that name. Fleeing from
+the persecutions of the Picts and Scots who desolated
+his country, he founded here, at the end of the
+fifth century, a considerable monastery, afterwards
+destroyed by the Normans.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Loctudy is a curious Romanesque church, one
+of the best preserved in Brittany, which dates from
+the Templars of the twelfth century. It has a nave
+with aisles going all round the choir, and three round
+apsidal chapels at the end. The five arches on each
+side of the nave are horse-shoe shaped, and the choir
+is surrounded by the same number of high narrow
+arches, resting on columns with grotesque capitals of
+complicated design. The three chapels behind are
+seen through the opening; on one of the capitals
+is sculptured the cross of the Templars. The whole
+building is spoiled by whitewash.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Chevaliers en ce monde cy</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Ne peuvent vivre sans souci;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Ils doivent le peuple defendre,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et leur sang pour la foi espandre.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Eustache Deschamps</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page262">[pg 262]</span><a name="Pg262" id="Pg262" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image52.jpg" width="558" height="587" alt="" title="52. Torche of Penmarch." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">52. Torche of Penmarch.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We engaged a rough kind of vehicle, much like
+a butcher's cart, to visit the Torche de Penmarch, a
+rocky promontory, so called from its fancied resemblance
+to a horse's head, forming the southern
+extremity of the department of Finistère. The
+Torche is a mass of rocks separated from the mainland
+by a chasm called the "Saut de Moine," because
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page263">[pg 263]</span><a name="Pg263" id="Pg263" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+an Irish saint, named Viaud, jumped across it on his
+landing. In rough weather, the noise made by the
+sea dashing against its sides and rushing through the
+crevices of the rocks, is said to be heard at Quimper,
+a distance of twenty-one miles. A line of rocks runs
+all along the coast, marked by a lighthouse at Penmarch;
+we proceeded to another group of rocks
+near which M. de Châtellier, a proprietor and antiquary
+of this country, has built a house for painting
+and enjoying the scenery. One of our party clambered
+down to see the "Trou d'Enfer," a tremendously deep
+hole in the rocks, the bottom covered with a pink
+sort of sea-weed, and the water as clear as crystal.
+The whole country is a dreary sandy level, with salt-marshes,
+over which we passed to the ruined church
+of St. Fiacre, and close by is that of St. Guenolé,
+both situated near the sea. The countryman who
+showed us the church, knelt reverently down at the
+threshold and put up a short prayer before he
+entered the sacred building. The general devoutness
+and strong faith of the Bretons is most impressive
+and genuine, mixed, no doubt, with great superstition;
+but, as Wesley says, "Heaven makes
+allowance for invincible ignorance, and blesses the
+faith notwithstanding the superstition."</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image53.jpg" width="242" height="189" alt="" title="53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. <br />Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Guenolé consists of an unfinished square
+tower, with crocketed pinnacles and a porch of considerable
+size, under a large mullioned window of the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page264">[pg 264]</span><a name="Pg264" id="Pg264" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+fifteenth century. On each side of the porch are
+rude sculptures of ships and fishes, not uncommon
+in these parts, set there to show the church has been
+built with the thank-offerings of the fisher population
+of the district. In our
+tour we met with several
+churches with this sign, evidences
+of the piety of the
+fishermen; indeed, at Dunkirk,
+when the church was
+burned down in the sixteenth
+century by the
+French, it was entirely rebuilt by the contribution
+called "le filet saint," from an ancient custom among
+the fishermen of having one net so called, the produce
+of which was set apart for the church.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image54.jpg" width="355" height="542" alt="" title="54. Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">54. Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Towards the lighthouse are the ruins of the old
+town of Penmarch, much celebrated in the maritime
+history of the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries; its
+commerce extended even to Spain, and the riches of
+its inhabitants were so surpassingly great, that they
+drank out of silver cups, and the lords of a manor
+near the Torche furnished the silk required to line
+the road traversed by religious processions, their
+wealth being due to the "viande de carême," that is
+to say, to the cod fishery. But the discovery of
+Newfoundland deprived them of this lucrative
+monopoly, and the ravages of Fontenelle le Ligueur
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page265">[pg 265]</span><a name="Pg265" id="Pg265" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page266">[pg 266]</span><a name="Pg266" id="Pg266" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page267">[pg 267]</span><a name="Pg267" id="Pg267" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+completed their ruin. All now is a scene of desolation.
+Penmarch has been called the Palmyra of
+Brittany.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Guy Eder Fontenelle, the Leaguer, who spread
+terror and devastation throughout Brittany in the
+sixteenth century, was a member of the Beaumanoir
+family; the name he adopted was that of one of the
+family estates. He was born in the Château of
+Beaumanoir (near Evran), and his elder brother
+early foresaw his guilty career. He escaped from
+college and united himself with a set of young men
+as lawless as himself; they formed themselves into a
+band, which soon became the dread of all Brittany.
+They ravaged the whole of Tréguier and Cornouaille,
+surprised the châteaux of Coëtfrec and
+others, took the church of Carhaix, which they
+fortified, and the towns of Paimpol, Lannion, and
+Landerneau, which they pillaged, Penmarch and
+Pontcroix, whence they carried off an immense
+booty and 300 vessels, with which they scoured the
+seas; and lastly, Douarnenez and the Island of
+Tristan (in 1595), whence fruitless attempts were
+made to dislodge them. For three years Fontenelle
+made this island his head-quarters, issuing from his
+stronghold to devastate the country. He murdered
+above fifteen hundred peasants at Plougastel, sank an
+English ship, without allowing her crew a moment to
+save themselves, imprisoned and tortured at Douarnenez
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page268">[pg 268]</span><a name="Pg268" id="Pg268" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+all who fell into his hands. His victims never
+survived his cruelties more than three or four days,
+when their bodies were cast out into the bay to the
+fishes. These were only a few of his atrocities. As
+he called himself one of the leaders of the League in
+Brittany, the Duke de Mercœur, its chief, indignant
+at the barbarities perpetrated in its name, caused
+Fontenelle to be imprisoned, but he was liberated on
+paying a ransom; and, fearing he would give Douarnenez
+over to the Spaniards, Fontenelle was included
+in the pacification of Mercœur with Henry IV. But
+four years later he was implicated in the conspiracy
+of Biron; on which occasion all his old crimes were
+raked up against him, and he was condemned to be
+dragged on a hurdle, and broken alive upon the
+wheel, which sentence was executed on the Place de
+Grève at Paris in 1602. In consideration of the
+illustrious house to whom he belonged, the king
+granted that in the act of condemnation he should
+not go by his own name. We next went to see
+the church of Saint Nonna in the town, the largest
+of the numerous churches in the parish of Penmarch.
+Ships are sculptured in front of the tower,
+as at St. Guenolé. On the left of the porch is a
+pretty window, the mullions formed by three fleur
+de lis. In the church is a curious old painting
+styled, "Procession du vœu de Louis XIII." Portraits
+of the King, the Dauphin (Louis XIV.),
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page269">[pg 269]</span><a name="Pg269" id="Pg269" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+Anne of Austria, and Cardinal Richelieu, are introduced,
+and a view of the church of St. Nonna is in
+the background.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image55.jpg" width="249" height="330" alt="" title="55. Fleur-de-Lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">55. Fleur-de-Lisé Window, Church of <br />St. Nonna, Penmarch.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our way home we
+passed, on the left, at Kerscaven,
+two menhirs, one
+curiously furrowed and
+shaped like a half-opened
+fan.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had a pretty drive
+from Pont l'Abbé, with
+occasional views of the
+Bay of Audierne, extending
+from Penmarch to the
+Pointe du Raz. Midway the
+horse, going down a steep hill, fell, and we all found
+ourselves upon the road, but happily unhurt. We
+met numbers of peasants returning from the fair at
+Pontcroix; and our driver, a butcher by trade, coolly
+stopped the vehicle, to discourse with them on the
+price of stock, and to handle the sheep they had
+bought. Our drive was enlivened with occasional
+peeps of the Bay of Audierne till we reached the
+little port of that name, the view of which is very
+pretty. Audierne is approached by a bridge across
+the river or estuary. At its entrance is a lighthouse,
+and on the right a sandy bay, with bathing-machines
+in the season.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page270">[pg 270]</span><a name="Pg270" id="Pg270" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image56.jpg" width="555" height="583" alt="" title="56. Pointe du Raz." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">56. Pointe du Raz.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The town consists of three streets of cut granite
+houses, with the name of the builder and the date of
+their construction inscribed over the door. Fishing
+is the occupation of the inhabitants, and the table-d'hôte
+at our comfortable, clean, little inn was plentifully
+supplied with magnificent john dorys, large
+red mullet, langoustes, and fish of every description.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page271">[pg 271]</span><a name="Pg271" id="Pg271" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Audierne we took a carriage to visit the
+Pointe du Raz, a <span class="tei tei-corr">promontory</span> so famous for its
+rocks and wrecks. We went through a treeless
+country; near a pretty bay, on the left, is the chapel
+of Notre Dame-de-Bon-Voyage, destined chiefly for
+sailors, after which the country becomes more wild,
+barren, and cheerless. We passed over a bridge which
+no Breton would dare to cross at night, for fear of
+being flung by the spirits into the river. According
+to their belief, a hare appears on the bridge, and
+terrifies the horses, who throw their rider, and the
+traveller is dragged by the phantom into the muddy
+river, where he is kept till morning's dawn, when he
+is allowed to pursue his way, exhausted with cold, and
+half dead with fright. They are very superstitious
+here, as in all Cornouaille. A writer says, "every
+nation of the earth has its superstitions and absurdities,
+but Brittany has those of all other nations
+united." An old woman in a village hard by, said
+our driver, has never been seen inside the walls of a
+church; the people say she has sold herself to the
+evil one, and no one dares go near or speak to her.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the left is the pretty steeple of the church of
+Plogoff, situated on an eminence, and dedicated to
+Saint Collédoc, a Welsh bishop of the sixth century,
+contemporary of King Arthur, and associated with
+many of the doings of Queen Guinevre and the
+knights of the Round Table. Lescoff is the last
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page272">[pg 272]</span><a name="Pg272" id="Pg272" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+village we passed through before—after driving over
+a barren plain—we arrived at the lighthouse, built
+thirty years back at the Pointe.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We walked thence to the Pointe, a gigantic and
+magnificent mass of rocks, eighty feet above the level
+of the sea. We met with a good-natured woman,
+who led the young people over the rocks to look
+down the "Enfer de Plogoff." They had a slippery
+scramble to reach the hole, a kind of tunnel through
+which the sea rushes with great violence, so much
+more terrible than that of Penmarch, that the noise
+has been compared to the distant roaring of some
+thousands of wild beasts issuing from the depths of
+a forest. In the mean time, we remained seated on the
+bank enjoying the view. On the south lay the Bay
+of Audierne, extending in the form of a crescent, the
+promontories of Penmarch and Raz forming the
+extreme points. The currents, and the numerous
+rocks of the bay, render it a dangerous coast, formerly
+peopled by barbarous wreckers, who despoiled
+the shipwrecked mariners as our Cornish men of old.
+Opposite the Raz, about seven miles distant, is the
+Island of Sein, and to the right, the Baie des Trépassés.
+The island of Sein was anciently the seat of
+an oracle, interpreted by nine Druidesses, who were
+versed in every art and science. Moreover, they
+appear to have been accomplished needlewomen; for
+a Breton chronicler, giving an account of the <span class="tei tei-corr">coronation</span>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page273">[pg 273]</span><a name="Pg273" id="Pg273" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of an early king (Erech) at Nantes, describes
+his mantle as embroidered by these priestesses with
+figures of Arithmetic, Astronomy, and Music. Their
+skill in divination caused them to be associated with
+the fairies; and Morgan—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">i.e.</span></span> "born of the sea"—one
+of these priestesses, who lived in the first century of
+the Christian era, was famous among the British
+fairies.</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Avec succès cultivait la magie,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Morgan de plus, était assez jolie.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Chateaubriand celebrates Velleda, the last of the
+Druidesses of Sein, tall in stature, her eyes blue, with
+long fair floating hair, dressed in a short black tunic,
+without sleeves, bearing a golden sickle suspended
+from a brazen girdle, and crowned with a branch of
+oak. Here King Arthur was brought by Merlin to
+recover of his wounds. The inhabitants of the island
+were celebrated for their ferocity as wreckers.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The passage between the island and the point
+or Bec du Raz—"qu'aucun n'a passé sans mal ou
+sans crainte"—is very dangerous, owing to the
+number of rocks and the violence of the currents;
+hence the well-known prayer of the Breton sailor,
+"Mon Dieu, secourez-moi pour traverser le Raz,
+car mon navire est petit et la mer est grande."
+Having no wish to run the risk of being detained
+at the island by rough weather, we did not attempt
+the passage.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page274">[pg 274]</span><a name="Pg274" id="Pg274" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Baie des Trépassés, over which we looked on
+the right, is so called from the Celtic legend that
+the Druids embarked in this bay after their death, to
+be buried in the island of Sein:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Autrefois, un esprit venait, d'une voix forte;</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Appeler chaque nuit un pêcheur sur sa porte;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Arrivé dans la baie, on trouvait un bateau</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Si lourd et si chargé de morts qu'il faisait eau,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Et pourtant il fallait, malgré vent et marée,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Les mener jusqu'à Sein, jusqu'à l'île sacrée.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.40em"><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Brizeux</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The bay also derives its name from the numerous
+shipwrecks that have taken place on its rocks, and
+from the number of corpses that have been floated
+there by the currents from ships foundered in the
+gulf comprised between the entrance of Brest, the
+Ouëssant Islands, and Sein. The whole extent of
+the coast of Brittany is one long wall of rocks, placed
+as it were to protect it from the inroads of the sea
+and from foreign invasion. Heaped one over the
+other, they resemble the bastions of a citadel, the
+advanced rocks extending out to sea, jutting up in
+every direction in endless reefs. Or its line of coast
+may be compared to the jagged teeth of a comb,
+with a second line of defence in the rocks further
+out to sea.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the desolate shore of the Baie des Trépassés is
+a piece of water, the étang de Laoual, site of the city
+of Is—submerged by Divine vengeance, according
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page275">[pg 275]</span><a name="Pg275" id="Pg275" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+to popular tradition, in the fifth century—a place of
+great commerce, arts, riches, and also of luxury.
+Gradlon, or Grallo, the king, alone attempted to
+stem the torrent. Built in the vast basin which now
+forms the Bay of Douarnenez, it was protected from
+the ocean by a strong dyke, the sluices only admitting
+sufficient water to supply the town. King Gradlon
+kept the silver key (which opened, at the same time,
+the great sluice and the city gates) suspended round
+his neck. His palace was of marble, cedar, and gold;
+in the midst of a brilliant Court sat enthroned his
+daughter Dahut, a princess who "had made a crown
+of her vices, and had taken for her pages the seven
+capital sins." Taking advantage of the sleep of her
+father, Dahut one night stole the silver key, and
+instead of opening the city gate, by mistake unlocked
+the sluices. The King was awakened by
+St. Guenolé, who commanded him to flee, as the
+torrent was reaching the palace.  He mounted
+his horse, taking his worthless daughter behind
+him. The torrent was gaining upon him fast,
+when a voice from behind called out, "Throw the
+demon thou carriest into the sea, if thou dost not
+desire to perish." Dahut felt her strength failing
+her; the hands that convulsively grasped her father's
+waist relaxed their hold; she rolled into the water,
+disappeared, and the torrent immediately stopped
+its course. The King reached Quimper safe and
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page276">[pg 276]</span><a name="Pg276" id="Pg276" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+sound, and that town became afterwards the capital
+of Cornouaille.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So runs the legend. That a great city once
+existed in the Bay of Douarnenez admits of no
+doubt. Besides the religious chronicles of the
+country, which have preserved the memory of its
+existence, in the sixteenth century, remains of old
+edifices were standing at the entrance of the bay,
+old paved roads have been traced, and walls found
+under water near the Pointe du Raz.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The tradition of a town thus swallowed up is
+common among the Celtic race. In Wales, the site
+of the submerged city is in Cardigan Bay; in Ireland,
+in Lough Neagh:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">On Lough Neagh's banks, where the fisherman strays,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 7.20em"><span style="font-size: 90%">At the hour of eve's declining,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">He sees the round towers of other days</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 7.20em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Beneath the waters shining.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-bibl" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-author" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Moore</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">One of our party went out fishing to the Pointe,
+and returned well laden with his spoils.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image57.jpg" width="361" height="538" alt="" title="57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The road from Audierne to Douarnenez passes by
+Pontcroix, a little town on the same river (Goazien)
+as Audierne, along which the road runs—a charming
+drive. It has a magnificent Romanesque church of
+the twelfth (probably of the fifteenth) century, with
+a remarkable porch, richly embroidered in quatrefoils
+and trefoils. A tower in the centre, with octagonal
+spire is second to none in Cornouaille, except that
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page277">[pg 277]</span><a name="Pg277" id="Pg277" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page278">[pg 278]</span><a name="Pg278" id="Pg278" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page279">[pg 279]</span><a name="Pg279" id="Pg279" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of Quimper. The arches of the nave are horseshoe,
+the transepts very narrow. Under the altar of the
+Lady Chapel is a "Cène," half the size of nature,
+sculptured in ivory and marble, of marvellous workmanship.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image58.jpg" width="302" height="177" alt="" title="58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame de-Comfort, near Douarnenez." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame <br />de-Comfort, near Douarnenez.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Eleven miles from Douarnenez we stopped to see
+the pretty little chapel of Notre Dame-de-Comfort,
+in a hamlet of that name, with light open-work
+steeple. Attached to one of the arches, on the left
+of the choir, is a wooden wheel, hung round with
+bells, to which is attached
+a long string.
+It is erroneously
+called "the wheel of
+fortune;" but is, in
+fact, the old wheel of
+sacring bells in use
+before the single
+bell was adopted. The boy who showed us the
+chapel pulled the string which was fastened to a
+hook near the altar, and the wheel revolved and rang
+a merry peal. Formerly there was a little wooden
+figure attached to the wheel, which performed the
+same office. The road runs round a hill, along an
+estuary formed by the river, and suddenly the beautiful
+lake, called the Bay of Douarnenez, bursts on
+the sight, of a blue as lovely as the Italian seas.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The dirty little town of Douarnenez is charmingly
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page280">[pg 280]</span><a name="Pg280" id="Pg280" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+situated to the south of the bay, the hills clothed
+with trees to the water's edge. The Pointe du Raz
+forms the western boundary of the bay, and it is shut
+in to the north by the peninsula of Crozon; its extreme
+point, Pointe de la Chèvre, advancing nearly
+midway into the bay. The tide here falls eighteen
+feet. The triple peaks of the Méné-Hom, one of
+the Montagnes Noires, is a prominent feature in the
+view. Islands are scattered over the gulf, and the
+island of Tristan, retreat of Fontenelle le Ligueur,
+is so close to Douarnenez, that it may be reached on
+foot at low water.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The hotel was crammed, gentlemen sleeping on
+the billiard-table, or littered down in the room of
+the table-d'hôte: the place was crowded. All the
+world had flocked in to assist at the Pardon of Sainte
+Anne-la-Palue, which was to take place the following
+morning. No vehicle was to be had, and we were
+in despair of being able to go, when a good-natured
+voyageur kindly offered to drive us in his carriage—a
+proposal we thankfully accepted. In all our wanderings
+we had hitherto never been so fortunate as
+to see a Pardon, and we were very anxious to go.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue takes place
+the last Sunday in August, continuing three days,
+and is one of the most frequented in Finistère.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image59.jpg" width="309" height="467" alt="" title="59. Costume of a Finistère Bride." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">59. Costume of a Finistère Bride.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Plonevez-Porzun we turned off the Crozon
+road, and about two miles further arrived at the
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page281">[pg 281]</span><a name="Pg281" id="Pg281" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+chapel. The road all the way was lined with peasants
+walking to the Pardon. The young men of Douarnenez
+wear blue jackets, embroidered in colours,
+with rows of plated buttons, the sleeves and waistcoat
+of a darker blue than the jacket, scarlet sashes, some
+with plaited bragou bras and shining leather gaiters;
+but most of them wore trowsers, their hair long, and
+their hats with two or three rows of coloured variegated
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page282">[pg 282]</span><a name="Pg282" id="Pg282" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+chenille. The women had square caps, and
+aprons with bibs. Those who were in mourning
+wore light yellow caps, called "bourladins," stained
+that colour with beeswax or saffron.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">St. Anne is a newly-built church, standing on the
+slope of a down which separates it from the sea, in a
+perfectly insulated situation. It is only opened once
+a year for the Pardon. Round it were erected
+numerous stalls, with toys, epinglettes, and rosaries
+(chapelets), in heaps for sale; for rosaries must always
+be purchased at the Pardon, to preserve the wearer
+from thunder and hydrophobia. The great fabric
+for them is at Angers, where they are made in
+immense quantities. In the principal manufactory
+a steam-engine is used for turning the beads; in the
+others the common lathe. One maker told us she
+sent annually into Brittany alone rosaries to the
+value of 800<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">l</span></span>. There were tents and booths erected
+for the accommodation of the pilgrims who had
+arrived the preceding day. They eat, drink, and
+dance in the tents by day, and sleep on the tables at
+night.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At ten o'clock, at the ringing of a bell, a procession
+was formed, consisting of a long line of peasants,
+preceded by priests and banners, which made the
+round of the church; the penitents, en chemise to
+the waist, barefooted, carrying wax-tapers in their
+hands. The penance is sometimes executed by
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page283">[pg 283]</span><a name="Pg283" id="Pg283" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+proxy: a rich sinner may, for a small sum, get his
+penance performed by another. One woman made
+the round of the church on her knees, telling her
+beads as she hobbled along. This was in performance
+of a vow made for some special deliverance.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We proceeded to the top of the hill, from which
+the beautiful Bay of Douarnenez presented a most
+lively appearance; fleets of small boats arriving from
+every direction, and a huge steamer from Brest,
+which was obliged to land its passengers in small
+boats, on account of the shallowness of the water.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The appearance of the downs now became very
+animated, covered with gaily-dressed peasants arranged
+in groups, sitting or lying on the grass, in
+every kind of attitude.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At four o'clock the grand procession took place.
+First came the priests of all the surrounding districts,
+with the banners and crosses of their parishes; then
+followed five girls (three and two) in white, carrying
+a banner, and eight more in similar attire, bearing a
+statue of the Virgin. Next appeared the banner of
+Sainte Anne, carried by women in the gorgeous costume
+of the commune—gowns of cherry-coloured
+silk, trimmed half the way up with gold lace, a silver
+lace scarf, and aprons of gold tissue or rich silk
+brocade. Under their lace caps was a cap of gold
+or silver tissue. Four more of these superbly-dressed
+bearers ("porteuses") carried the statue of Ste. Anne.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page284">[pg 284]</span><a name="Pg284" id="Pg284" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image60.jpg" width="351" height="644" alt="" title="60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Girls carrying blue flags walked by their side. Troops
+of barefooted penitents and shaggy-headed beggars
+closed the procession, which was followed by a countless
+train of the peasants. It slowly wound its way
+over the hill, and again descended to the church,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page285">[pg 285]</span><a name="Pg285" id="Pg285" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+where it mingled among the crowds of assembled
+spectators, which filled the churchyard and were
+seated on the steps of the calvary.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Not far from the church is the holy well of Ste.
+Anne, where devotees were engaged pouring the
+holy water over their hands and backs, dipping their
+children, and testing its miraculous efficacy by various
+other ablutions.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We proceeded next morning to Quimper, having
+had no opportunity of seeing Douarnenez itself. In
+the season it is a favourite watering-place, the bathing
+being about two miles from the town. It is a great
+place for the sardine fishery. From Quimper we
+went by rail to Rosporden, whence an omnibus runs
+to Concarneau. The church of Rosporden is situated
+on a little promontory, jutting out into a large étang
+fed by the river Aven, which runs through it and
+flows on to Pontaven.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We took a carriage at Rosporden for Le Faouët,
+passing by Scaër on the Isole, a stream which rises
+at the foot of the Montagnes Noires, takes a curve
+round the town of Scaër, and joins the Laita. It is
+full of trout and salmon.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Scaër is a town remarkable for having preserved
+many old customs and superstitions; among others,
+the bees are considered to be entitled to share in the
+joys and sorrows of the family. Their hives are surrounded
+with a red stuff on the occasion of a marriage;
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page286">[pg 286]</span><a name="Pg286" id="Pg286" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+with a black on that of a death. This custom
+is still preserved in Wales. In all parts of Brittany
+bees are treated with special affection. As the redbreast
+is sacred, because she broke a thorn from the
+crown of our Lord that pierced His brow, so are the
+bees revered because, as we learn from the code of
+Hoel the Good, though they were sent from heaven
+to earth after the fall of man, the blessing of Heaven
+has ever followed them in their exile. This, too, is
+the reason the wax they produce has the privilege of
+lighting the altars for the divine office.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image61.jpg" width="253" height="97" alt="" title="61. Cross Stones." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">61. Cross Stones.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was the day of a Pardon, and the peasants were
+all in gala dresses. A wrestling match unfortunately
+had just been finished; for throughout Cornouaille
+wrestling has been, from time immemorial, as favourite
+a game as in our county of the same name.
+Our driver tried without success to procure for us
+some of the little double crystals, intersecting each
+other at right angles,
+called "pierre de croix"—by
+mineralogists grenatite—found
+in the Coatdry,
+a small affluent of
+the Aven, washed out of the mica slaty rocks in
+which they abound. The peasants assign to them
+a miraculous origin, and wear them in little bags
+round the neck as charms against headache, blindness,
+shipwreck, and hydrophobia, being, as they
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page287">[pg 287]</span><a name="Pg287" id="Pg287" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+allege, signed with the cross. According to tradition,
+a pagan chief, having, in his impious rage,
+thrown down the cross in the chapel of Coatdry,
+Heaven, in memorial of the outrage, placed the sacred
+symbol upon the stones of the river.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Le Faouët we again entered the department of
+the Morbihan. This pretty little town is situated
+between the Sterlaer and the Ellé. We first walked
+to see the chapel of Ste. Barbe, perched, in the most
+singular manner, in the cleft of a high rock, about a
+mile from the town.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After a steep climb we reached the plateau of the
+hill, where is the monument of a M. Berenger, who
+desired to be buried in this elevated spot, which
+commands a charming view of the surrounding
+country, the silvery waters of the Ellé winding at the
+base of the mountain. We then descended, by a
+flight of handsome, broad, granite steps, with balustrades,
+to the chapel, placed on so narrow a space
+that it was impossible to give it the usual inclination
+to the east. The entrance-porch is to the southwest,
+and the high altar opposite, against the walls
+of the chapel, to the north-east. On the top of the
+steps is the belfry, consisting of a roof, supported by
+four columns. The day of the Pardon each pilgrim
+rings the bell. The chapel was built in this singular
+spot, according to tradition, by a knight, who was
+overtaken by a storm in the valley of the Ellé beneath.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page288">[pg 288]</span><a name="Pg288" id="Pg288" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+He saw an enormous mass of detached rock on the
+point of falling down and crushing him, when he
+invoked the intercession of Sainte Barbe, the guardian
+saint against thunder, promising to build her a chapel,
+if delivered from the danger. His prayer was heard;
+the rock was stayed in its descent and rested on the
+cleft, where, next day, the grateful knight began
+building the chapel, as a thank-offering for his
+escape. Above Ste. Barbe, stationed on an insulated
+rock, one of the highest peaks in Brittany, is a small
+chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, also approached by
+a flight of stone steps, like Ste. Barbe, with bridge
+built over an archway. The rock on which it stands
+is so abrupt, that rings are placed along the sides of the
+chapel for the pilgrims, when creeping round, to hold
+on by. Many have perished in the attempt; none,
+they say, have ever succeeded in making the circuit.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There was a wedding at Le Faouët during our stay
+there. Guests, invited from all quarters, to the
+number of 250, arrived in their gala costumes, some
+of them magnificent: one woman wore a gown
+entirely of gold tissue; it was her wedding-dress.
+The musicians, with biniou and hautboy, went round
+to summon the guests. We saw the procession
+going to church. The bride was prettily dressed,
+with a high cap, beautifully "got up," pointed in
+form, and trimmed with lace, and embroidered; a
+muslin apron, also lace-trimmed, and a double muslin
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page289">[pg 289]</span><a name="Pg289" id="Pg289" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+shawl, similarly trimmed, the lace beautifully plaited;
+a violet silk dress, white moire sash, and a small
+bunch of white flowers. The bridegroom was "en
+bourgeois." Outside the church door were tables,
+laid out with cakes; after the service the bride and
+all the party took each a cake and put money in the
+plates, as an offering for the poor. They next
+adjourned to the Place, where they danced three
+"gavottes" under the trees. The ceremony of
+stealing away the bride then took place; that is, she
+was chased by some dozen of the youths of the company,
+and he who had the good fortune to capture
+her she treated to a cup of coffee at a café. Dinner
+followed, and then they returned to the interminable
+gavotte. They hold each other's hands "en grand
+rond," then wind themselves round the centre couple,
+executing most elaborate steps, and uncoil again to
+return to the grand rond. We counted as many as
+thirty couples in one gavotte. These festivities last
+two, or sometimes three, days, during which time all
+the wedding party are entertained free of expense.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Le Faouët is a great fishing quarter. The Ellé,
+which flows round the town, is a stream of considerable
+size; and, four miles below Le Faouët, it is
+joined by the Laita, and before Quimperlé unites
+its waters with the Isole, whence its mingled streams
+flow into the Atlantic, under the name of the Laita.
+We were told that large fish were taken in a pond
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page290">[pg 290]</span><a name="Pg290" id="Pg290" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+in the grounds of the Abbey of Langonnet, not far
+from Le Faouët, but it is strictly preserved.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The people of this district retain all the old
+Breton superstitions; they believe in the Car of
+Death, drawn by six black horses, driven by the
+"Ankou," or Phantom of Death, with an iron whip.
+They also have full faith in the Washerwomen of
+the Night (Lavandières de la Nuit), who wash the
+shrouds for the dead, and fill the air with their
+melodious songs:—</p>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Si chrétien ne vient nous sauver,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Jusqu'au jugement faut laver:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Au clair de la lune, au bruit du vent,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Sous la neige, le linceul blanc.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div><div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">If no good soul our hands will stay,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">We must toil on till judgment-day:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">In strong wind or clear moonlight,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">We must wash the death-shroud white.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">They engage the passer-by to help them in wringing
+the linen; if he refuses, they drown him in their
+washing trough, or suffocate him in a wet sheet.
+Should he show himself ill-disposed, after having
+agreed to help them, they dislocate his arm. If he
+wrings the wrong way, his fate is inevitable; but if
+docile and obliging, they give him some clothes and
+dismiss him.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image62.jpg" width="642" height="370" alt="" title="62. Rood-Screen or Jubé, St Fiacre." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">62. Rood-Screen or Jubé, St Fiacre.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A mile and a half from Le Faouët, on a height
+a little off the Quimperlé road, is the beautiful
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page291">[pg 291]</span><a name="Pg291" id="Pg291" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page292">[pg 292]</span><a name="Pg292" id="Pg292" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page293">[pg 293]</span><a name="Pg293" id="Pg293" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+church of Saint Fiacre, dating from the middle of
+the fifteenth century, celebrated for its carved
+wooden jubé, or rood-screen, and its painted glass.
+The church is falling to decay. It would be tedious
+to enumerate all the figures, and describe the details
+of this beautiful jubé. The carving is a perfect
+tracery of lace-work. Three large figures represent
+our Saviour and the two thieves. Then there are
+the Virgin and St. Joseph; the latter, with carpenter's
+plane and hammer. Below, Adam and Eve,
+and the Angel with the flaming sword. Two angels
+hold cartouches, on one of which is inscribed, "L'an
+mil C/IIII XX/IIII (1480) fut fait cette sculpture par Olivier
+de Loergan;" and, on the other, "Cette passion fut
+peinte l'an 1627. Yves Perez fabricant. Tous repaint
+en 1866." Below are panels carved in the flamboyant
+style, of exquisite workmanship. The two
+middle panels have the sacred monogram, those on
+the east side ermines surrounded by cordelières.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The side of the rood-loft facing the choir has
+pendents with grotesque carvings of allegorical signification.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A man in an apple-tree, gathering the fruit,
+symbolizes theft. Next comes a disgusting representation
+of gluttony: a man relieving himself of a
+pig he has swallowed, the tail alone remaining in
+his mouth. Then follow a young man and woman,
+gaily attired, emblematic of luxury. So far, three
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page294">[pg 294]</span><a name="Pg294" id="Pg294" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of the "sept péchés capitaux" are represented; but
+after these comes a national subject: a man playing
+on the bagpipe. The figures throughout the rood-screen
+are all boldly executed, and the tracery most
+elegant and delicate.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The painted glass in the church is considerable,
+and represents the Life of Our Saviour, that of St.
+Fiacre, the Feast of Herod, and the Martyrdom of
+the Baptist, figures of the Prophets of the Old
+Testament, with many others. In most of the subjects,
+the figures are much mutilated. On one
+window is inscribed, "Pierre Androuet ouvrier demeurant
+à Kemperlé 1552." Over one altar is a
+sculpture, representing the Martyrdom of Saint
+Sebastian, between two archers, in the quaint costume
+of the sixteenth century.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About six miles from Le Faouët, is the ruined
+castle of Poncallec, with its forest, étang, and forge;
+once the demesne of the young marquis of that
+name, who was implicated in that conspiracy to
+transfer the Regency from the Duke of Orleans to
+Philip V. of Spain, called the plot of Cellamare. Of
+the hundred and forty-eight gentlemen included in
+the accusation, all escaped to Spain, except Poncallec
+and three others. Poncallec refused to
+accompany them from a superstitious fear, a fortune-teller
+having foretold he should perish by the
+sea, "par la mer." They took refuge in a church,
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page295">[pg 295]</span><a name="Pg295" id="Pg295" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+but were surprised by a party of cavaliers who had
+muffled the feet of their horses to reach them unheard.
+They escaped through a subterranean passage,
+and, for fifteen days, lay concealed in the
+hollow of a yew-tree, fed in secret by faithful
+peasants. Poncallec traversed France in the disguise
+of a priest, but was arrested at the Pyrenees.
+He with the three others were all convicted of high
+treason, and, a few hours after their condemnation,
+were beheaded at Nantes. Poncallec was the last to
+suffer. When ascending the scaffold, he asked the
+executioner his name; on his answering "La Mer,"
+Poncallec felt the witch's prophecy was fulfilled.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The estates of the four victims were confiscated,
+their arms effaced from the fronts of their houses,
+the moats of their castles filled in, and their trees
+(hautes futaies) cut down, "à hauteur d'infamie,"
+that is, within nine feet of the ground, in like
+manner as were those of Moor Park, after the
+execution of the Duke of Monmouth. A list was
+presented to the Regent Philip of other offenders,
+but he tore the paper, and published an amnesty.
+The story of Poncallec is dramatically told by
+Alexandre Dumas, in his novel, called 'Une fille du
+Regent.' The Bretons honoured the victims as
+martyrs, and M. de la Villemarqué, in his 'Chansons
+Bretons,' gives a touching elegy which shows the
+sympathy excited by the tragic fate of Poncallec:</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page296">[pg 296]</span><a name="Pg296" id="Pg296" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<div class="block tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Quand il arriva à Nantes, il fut jugé et condamné,</span></span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 3.60em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Condamné non par ses pairs,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Mais par des gens tombés de derrière les carrosses.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 5.40em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Ils demandèrent à Poncallec:</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 5.40em"><span style="font-size: 90%">'Seigneur marquis, qu'avez vous fait?</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 5.40em"><span style="font-size: 90%">—Mon devoir; faites notre métier.'</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Il est mort, chers pauvres, celui qui vous nourissait,</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Qui vous vêtissait, qui vous soutenait;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Il est mort celui qui vous aimait, habitants de Berné</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Celui qui aimait son pays et qui l'a aimé jusqu'à mourir.</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 7.20em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Il est mort à vingt-deux ans</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Comme meurent les martyrs et les saints;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 7.20em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Que dieu ait pitié de son âme!</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Le seigneur est mort … Ma voix s'éteint, …</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 1.80em"><span style="font-size: 90%">Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit, sois maudit;</span></div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 7.20em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-size: 90%">Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left Le Faouët and its comfortable primitive
+inn, the "Lion d'Or," with much regret; the
+country around is beautiful, and we had arranged
+to set out early that we might cross the Montagnes
+Noires by daylight; but we were disappointed in
+procuring a carriage, and it was not till late in the
+afternoon that we were able to leave in a diligence,
+of which the coupé alone was reserved to us, the
+interior being occupied by Breton farmers, returning
+from a horse-fair. From the elevated wooded
+ground of Le Faouët, the road makes a precipitous
+descent, and crosses the little stream of Moulin-au-duc,
+after which it again rises, in a winding direction,
+along the side of a mountain with a valley
+and little stream beneath. Then a rapid descent
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page297">[pg 297]</span><a name="Pg297" id="Pg297" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+brought us to Gourin, where we would gladly have
+risked staying the night, and waited till morning to
+pursue our road over the mountains, but we had
+paid our fare to Carhaix. Up hill and down again,
+like all the roads in mountainous Finistère, from
+Gourin we ascended again and passed a crest of the
+Montagnes Noires, which separates the three departments
+of Finistère, Morbihan, and Côtes-du-Nord;
+and proceeded through a valley to Carhaix,
+where we arrived at midnight, and therefore had no
+opportunity of seeing the beauties of the mountain
+scenery.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Carhaix is a dirty, unpaved, dull town of the
+middle ages, much decayed from its ancient importance
+when capital of the country dismembered
+from Cornouaille, in the sixth century, by Comorre
+the Breton Bluebeard. It is situated on an eminence,
+commanding an extensive view of the barren
+monotonous surrounding country, bounded by the
+Arré mountains, the Alps of Finistère. It is
+the centre of Lower Brittany, and the Duke
+d'Aiguillon, Minister of Louis XV., caused six
+roads to be made from it to Brest, Quimper,
+Morlaix, St. Brieux, Vannes, and Châteaulin, with
+the hope of introducing commerce and civilisation
+into this barren district, "le dernier trou du monde,"
+as it is styled by the Parisian.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">La Tour d'Auvergne, Premier Grenadier de
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page298">[pg 298]</span><a name="Pg298" id="Pg298" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+France, was born here, and a bronze statue of
+him, by Marochetti, has been erected to his memory.
+He is in the uniform of a private soldier,
+and presses to his heart the sword of honour just
+presented to him by the First Consul. Round the
+pedestal are four bas-reliefs, representing scenes in
+his life. In the first, he saves a wounded soldier;
+in the second, he forces the gates of Chambery;
+in the third, he takes leave of the parents of a youth,
+for whom he goes as a substitute into the army.
+The last represents his death; he was killed by a
+lance at Ober-hausen (Bavaria), fighting against the
+Austrians. The monument bears this inscription
+on its four sides:—</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em"><span class="tei tei-q">“La Tour d'Auvergne, 1^er Grenadier de France, né à Carhaix
+le 23 Decembre, 1715; mort au champ d'honneur le 27
+Juin, 1800.</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em"><span class="tei tei-q">“Ecrivain, Citoyen, Soldat, sa vie toujours glorieusement
+remplie ne laisse que de sublimes exemples à la posterité.</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em"><span class="tei tei-q">“Tant de talens, et de vertus, appartenaient à l'histoire et
+au premier Consul, de les devancer.</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em"><span class="tei tei-q">“Celui qui meurt dans une lutte sacrée trouve pour le repos
+une patrie même sur la terre etrangère.”</span></p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Preferring the title of "Premier Grenadier de
+France" to higher honours, La Tour d'Auvergne
+remained as a private soldier to his death; but in
+a decree of Buonaparte, then First Consul, preserved
+in the Musée des Archives, he orders that
+La Tour d'Auvergne's name should still be kept on
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page299">[pg 299]</span><a name="Pg299" id="Pg299" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the muster-roll of his old regiment; and, when called,
+the corporal should answer, "Mort au champ
+d'honneur!"</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The moderation and absence of ambition in the
+character of La Tour d'Auvergne is expressed in a
+letter to Le Coq, Bishop of Ille-et-Vilaine. He
+writes,—"Je me prosterne bien plus volontiers devant
+la Providence pour le remercier que pour rien
+demander; du pain, du lait, la liberté; et une cœur
+qui ne puisse jamais s'ouvrir à l'ambition, voilà
+l'objet de tous mes désirs."</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">La Tour d'Auvergne had a learned dog, which
+he educated as a soldier; he went through the
+whole drill, and his master made him always wear
+boots. He marched in them, on one occasion, the
+whole distance from Paris to Guingamp.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A horse fair and market were going on at Carhaix.
+Some of the women wore curious flannel
+hoods, edged with colours. There were baskets of
+burnt limpet shells and lime, used in washing as
+substitutes for soap. In the porch of the church
+dedicated to St. Tremeur (son of the Bluebeard
+Comorre) are some of the little skull-boxes so
+common in the north of Brittany. One was labelled,
+"Ci gît le chef de Mr. Thomas François Nonet,
+ancien notaire et maire de la ville de Carhaix le 28
+J^ier 1776, décédée le 8 7^bre 1842." The curfew bell
+rings at Carhaix at a quarter to ten.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page300">[pg 300]</span><a name="Pg300" id="Pg300" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left next day for Huelgoat, fifteen miles distant,
+the road up and down, wild and dreary. At
+Pont Pierre, about nine miles from Carhaix, we
+crossed the Aulne, even here a considerable river,
+with a beautiful thick forest on our right. At a
+place called La Grande Halte, we turned off the
+road to the right for Huelgoat, about a mile and a
+half off. It is prettily situated on a large pond or
+lake, nearly a mile and a half in circumference, and
+of great depth (20 feet). It was market day; the
+men wore brown serge coats, close white breeches
+and black gaiters, with straw hats bound with black.
+The countrymen from Saint Herbot were there in
+their black shaggy goat or sheepskin overcoats, the
+hair turned outwards (there are flocks of black sheep
+throughout Finistère), without sleeves, and the white
+breeches, black gaiters, and straw hats. The women
+of Huelgoat wear large white turnover collars and
+caps with long ends turned up.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We first walked to the rocking stone on the slope
+of a steep hill, considered the third largest in Brittany;
+the block forming a kind of double cube,
+that is, about twice the length of its height. It
+requires a very slight impulse to make it rock. This
+"fairy stone" is often consulted by the peasants. In
+the ravine close by, below the path, is what is called
+the "Cuisine de Madame Marie," but termed in the
+guide-books the "Ménage de la Vierge;" a recess
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page301">[pg 301]</span><a name="Pg301" id="Pg301" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+formed of large masses of fantastically shaped granite
+rocks, through which a small stream of water flows,
+arriving thither from the pond, by a subterranean
+course. One stone, hollowed out, is called the
+écuelle of the Virgin, and others have each the
+name of some different utensil requisite for the
+"Ménage" of our Lady. The young people managed
+to scramble to the bottom.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Huelgoat (Breton, "high wood") is celebrated for
+its lead-mines, which are now no longer worked. A
+well-kept path, cut on the top of the ridge, leads to
+the mines, about two miles and a half distant, along
+a neat little canal, three feet wide, issuing from the
+great pond, and supplying the hydraulic machine
+used to pump the water out of the mine. The
+deeply wooded valley, along the ridge of which it
+runs, is traversed by a rushing stream, which runs
+over rocks; and at a place called Le Gouffre, the
+rounded granite masses are piled in the wildest confusion,
+like those of the Ménage de la Vierge, forming
+a large dark cavern, at the bottom of which the
+imprisoned river foams and roars, and has forced
+itself an escape through a gorge at some distance
+from the place, where it is lost to view. A young
+girl is said, about a century back, to have fallen
+down this gulf. Attempting to gather some of the
+mosses that line the sides of the rocks, she slipped in
+and perished in the sight of her intended. Her body
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page302">[pg 302]</span><a name="Pg302" id="Pg302" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+never reappeared, but our guide assured us that her
+ghost was seen four years since, and that sighs and
+groans are to be heard at eve issuing from the fatal
+chasm.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The pretty little ivy-leaved campanula was growing
+here in abundance. We visited in succession
+the "robber's cave," the "Pierre cintré" (a natural
+archway), and other wonders, and returned much
+pleased with the infinite variety of fantastic rocks,
+rushing waters, and hanging woods, which form this
+charming scene.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The lead-mines of Huelgoat have been worked
+since the fifteenth century for the silver which the
+lead-ore (galena) contains.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The right of working these mines and those of
+Poullaouen was given by Louis XIII. to Jean du
+Châtelet, Baron of Beausoleil, and his wife. He
+was at that time General of the Mines in Hungary,
+and inspector of the French mines. They were
+accompanied by German miners, but their mysterious
+researches caused them to be accused of sorcery
+and magic. Richelieu had them imprisoned in the
+Bastille, where they both died, victims of the fanaticism
+of the age, and the works were abandoned till
+the eighteenth century. They are now no longer in
+operation, but it is said are about to be re-opened.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Retracing our steps to La Grande Halte, on the
+Carhaix road, we turned off to the left to see the cascade
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page303">[pg 303]</span><a name="Pg303" id="Pg303" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+of St. Herbot. We left our carriage, and
+walked up a hill covered with underwood, opposite
+the fall. The cascade is formed by the little river
+Elez falling through a mountain gorge about 650
+feet  in length, filled with granite rocks of every
+shape and size, the sides overhung with woods of
+oak. The height of the fall is 230 feet.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There was no water in the cascade. At the best,
+it must be only a succession of small falls. The
+river tumbles from rock to rock, forming on some
+of the ledges pools of water, filled with small trout,
+some of which were caught by our party.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">According to the legend, a giant of the country,
+wishing to clear the fields of his friend, a Druid,
+from the rocks that encumbered them, rolled them
+down the torrent.</p>
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We descended the hill to the road where we had
+left our carriage, and went to the chapel of St.
+Herbot, a building of the sixteenth century, on the
+side of a rushing brook. It has a high square tower
+opening into the church, and a rood-screen of wood
+beautifully carved in the style of the Renaissance,
+which forms three sides round the altar. Two angels
+are represented with cups, the "sainte graal" receiving
+the blood of Christ. The entrance to the
+church is up a flight of steps. It has a beautifully
+sculptured south porch, with statues of the Apostles,
+and some fine painted-glass windows. One part of
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page304">[pg 304]</span><a name="Pg304" id="Pg304" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+the church has the windows with iron bars, as if for
+defence.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image63.jpg" width="526" height="405" alt="" title="63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Near the altar is the tomb of the anchorite, St.
+Herbot; his effigy reposes under a Gothic canopy,
+upon a granite sarcophagus, represented in his hermit's
+gown, the hood thrown back, flowing hair, long
+beard, his breviary suspended to his girdle, and his
+pilgrim's staff by his left arm. His feet repose on a
+recumbent lion. St. Herbot is the great patron of
+cattle; the three days of the fair and pardon all the
+bullocks rest; and when an animal is ill, an offering
+of his hair is made to the saint. We saw a heap of
+horsehair and cows' tails lying on one of the altars.
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page305">[pg 305]</span><a name="Pg305" id="Pg305" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page306">[pg 306]</span><a name="Pg306" id="Pg306" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page307">[pg 307]</span><a name="Pg307" id="Pg307" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+These are annually sold for the profit of the
+church, and the proceeds amount to a considerable
+sum. Our guide gravely assured us that on the
+first of May, day of the Pardon of St. Herbot, the
+cows "d'elles mêmes" walk three times round the
+church.</p>
+
+
+  
+  
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image64.jpg" width="796" height="514" alt="" title="64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot." /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.</div></div>
+  
+
+
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We returned late to Carhaix, and left next day
+for Guingamp, passing, about two miles out of the
+town, through the village of St. Catherine on the
+Hierre, where the church has fleur-de-lisé windows,
+like that of Penmarch. We here entered the department
+of the Côtes-du-Nord through Callac, where we
+changed horses; the country was hilly and wooded.
+On the left we saw the spire of the church of Notre
+Dame-de-Grâces, where repose the remains of Charles
+of Blois; on the right appeared the cathedral towers
+of Guingamp. At this last place we took the rail
+to Caulnes-Dinan, and on, by diligence, to Dinan,
+whence we proposed returning by St. Malo; but,
+finding the time of the boat's sailing did not suit
+our arrangements, we returned by Paris and Dieppe
+to London.</p>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page308">[pg 308]</span><a name="Pg308" id="Pg308" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+</div>
+<hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page309">[pg 309]</span><a name="Pg309" id="Pg309" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<a name="toc8" id="toc8"></a>
+<a name="pdf9" id="pdf9"></a>
+<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany.</span></h1>
+<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1320. Du Guesclin born.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1338. Marriage of Charles of Blois and Jeanne de Penthièvre.  Du Guesclin at the tournament.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1341. Death of John III. Beginning of the War of Succession.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1342. John de Montfort, prisoner in the Louvre, 1345. Escape to England and death.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1346. Siege of Hennebont defended by Jeanne de Flandre.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1347. Charles of Blois taken prisoner at La Roche Derrien.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">  "   War of the two Jeannes.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1351. Combat of the Thirty.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1356. Charles of Blois liberated.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1359. Siege of Dinan.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1364. Battle of Auray.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1365. Treaty of Guérande.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1370. Du Guesclin, Constable of France.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1375. John IV. flees to England.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1380. He is recalled.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1387. Death of Du Guesclin.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1387. Clisson marries his daughter to Jean de Penthièvre.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1407. Death of Clisson.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1420. Seizure of John V. by the Penthièvres.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">1488. Battle of St. Aubin du Cormier.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page310">[pg 310]</span><a name="Pg310" id="Pg310" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<a name="toc10" id="toc10"></a>
+<a name="pdf11" id="pdf11"></a>
+    <h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany.</span></h1>
+
+    <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">
+    </p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/table.png" width="776" height="377" alt="" /></div>
+    
+    
+
+</div>
+<hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page311">[pg 311]</span><a name="Pg311" id="Pg311" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<a name="toc12" id="toc12"></a>
+<a name="pdf13" id="pdf13"></a>
+<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Index.</span></h1>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page312">[pg 312]</span><a name="Pg312" id="Pg312" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Abelard, <a href="#Pg192" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">192</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ancenis, <a href="#Pg217" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">217</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Angoulême, Duke and Duchess, <a href="#Pg167" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">167</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Anne, of Austria, Queen, <a href="#Pg122" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">122</a>, <a href="#Pg269" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">269</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Anne de Beaujeu, Regent, <a href="#Pg203" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">203</a>, <a href="#Pg229" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">229</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Anne of Brittany, Queen-Duchess, <a href="#Pg042" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">42</a>, <a href="#Pg050" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">50</a>, <a href="#Pg062" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">62</a>, <a href="#Pg098" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">98</a>, <a href="#Pg121" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">121</a>, <a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">153</a>, <a href="#Pg221" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">221</a>, <a href="#Pg222" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">222</a>, <a href="#Pg223" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">223</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Arré, mountains, <a href="#Pg103" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">103</a>, <a href="#Pg136" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">136</a>, <a href="#Pg297" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">297</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Arthur and Geoffroy Plantagenet, <a href="#Pg216" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">216</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Arthur III., Duke of Brittany, Constable of France, <a href="#Pg190" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">190</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Artois, Comte d', <a href="#Pg029" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">29</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Auray, <a href="#Pg157" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">157</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Auray, battle of, <a href="#Pg161" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">161</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Auray, Ste. Anne d', <a href="#Pg158" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">158</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Avranches, <a href="#Pg023" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">23</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Audierne, <a href="#Pg269" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">269</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Baciocchi, Princess, <a href="#Pg187" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">187</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Baie des Trépassés, <a href="#Pg274" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">274</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Barbès, <a href="#Pg028" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">28</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Barkers (aboyeurs), <a href="#Pg214" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">214</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bas-Foins, <a href="#Pg049" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">49</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Beaumanoir Chapel, <a href="#Pg056" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">56</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Beaumanoir, Jean de, <a href="#Pg052" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">52</a>, <a href="#Pg206" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">206</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Beauport, Abbey of, <a href="#Pg076" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">76</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Belle-Isle-en-Mer, <a href="#Pg250" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">250</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bellière, Château of, <a href="#Pg054" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">54</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Berri, Duchess, <a href="#Pg226" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">226</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bertheaume, Island, <a href="#Pg128" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">128</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bigouden, <a href="#Pg258" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">258</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Biniou, <a href="#Pg249" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">249</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bisson, <a href="#Pg155" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">155</a>, <a href="#Pg194" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">194</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Blanche of Castille, <a href="#Pg149" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">149</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Blue Beard, Breton, <a href="#Pg194" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">194</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Boisgelin, Château, <a href="#Pg075" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">75</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bonchamps, <a href="#Pg237" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">237</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bourg-de-Batz, <a href="#Pg217" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">217</a>.</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page313">[pg 313]</span><a name="Pg313" id="Pg313" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Brest, <a href="#Pg118" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">118</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Bretesch, Château of, <a href="#Pg248" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">248</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Breton bed, <a href="#Pg239" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">239</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— butter, <a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">153</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— character, <a href="#Pg099" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">99</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— chestnuts, <a href="#Pg203" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">203</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— cow and pig, <a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">153</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— distaffs, <a href="#Pg259" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">259</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— farmhouse, <a href="#Pg086" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">86</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— knitting, <a href="#Pg074" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">74</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— soup, <a href="#Pg112" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">112</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— threshing, <a href="#Pg117" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">117</a>;</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— vehicles, <a href="#Pg037" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">37</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Cancale, <a href="#Pg039" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">39</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Carnac, <a href="#Pg177" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">177</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Cesson, Tour de, <a href="#Pg071" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">71</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Carhaix, <a href="#Pg297" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">297</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Chalais, Comte de, <a href="#Pg226" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">226</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Champ des Martyrs, <a href="#Pg166" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">166</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Champtoceaux, Château de, <a href="#Pg218" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">218</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Chandos, Sir John, <a href="#Pg016" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">16</a>, <a href="#Pg046" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">46</a>, <a href="#Pg089" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">89</a>, <a href="#Pg162" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">162</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Châteaubriand, <a href="#Pg036" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">36</a>, <a href="#Pg041" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">41</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Châteaulin, <a href="#Pg135" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">135</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Chatelet, J. du, <a href="#Pg302" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">302</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Chêne-Ferron, Château of, <a href="#Pg057" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">57</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Cherbourg, <a href="#Pg001" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">1</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Charles the Bad, <a href="#Pg134" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">134</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Charles of Blois, <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">67</a>, <a href="#Pg075" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">75</a>, <a href="#Pg082" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">82</a>, <a href="#Pg161" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">161</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Charles V., <a href="#Pg223" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">223</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Charles VI., <a href="#Pg185" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">185</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Charles VII., <a href="#Pg047" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">47</a>, <a href="#Pg191" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">191</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Charles VIII., <a href="#Pg203" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">203</a>, <a href="#Pg229" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">229</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Clisson, Constable, <a href="#Pg025" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">25</a>, <a href="#Pg089" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">89</a>, <a href="#Pg186" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">186</a>, <a href="#Pg209" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">209</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Clisson, Marguerite, <a href="#Pg089" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">89</a>, <a href="#Pg218" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">218</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Colomb, Michel, <a href="#Pg127" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">127</a>, <a href="#Pg221" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">221</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Combat des Trente, <a href="#Pg206" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">206</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Combourg, Château de, <a href="#Pg036" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">36</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Comorre, <a href="#Pg194" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">194</a>, <a href="#Pg297" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">297</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Concarneau, <a href="#Pg142" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">142</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Conquet, Le, <a href="#Pg128" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">128</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Constance of Brittany, <a href="#Pg216" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">216</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Cornouaille, <a href="#Pg135" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">135</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Costume, <a href="#Pg023" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">23</a>, <a href="#Pg133" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">133</a>, <a href="#Pg140" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">140</a>, <a href="#Pg234" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">234</a>, <a href="#Pg249" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">249</a>, <a href="#Pg258" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">258</a>, <a href="#Pg283" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">283</a>, <a href="#Pg288" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">288</a>, <a href="#Pg298" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">298</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Couëron, <a href="#Pg034" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">34</a>.</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page314">[pg 314]</span><a name="Pg314" id="Pg314" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Couësnon, <a href="#Pg029" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">29</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Courcorro, <a href="#Pg181" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">181</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Coutances, <a href="#Pg019" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">19</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Crêpes, <a href="#Pg011" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">11</a>, <a href="#Pg169" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">169</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Croisic, Le, <a href="#Pg232" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">232</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Crosses, <a href="#Pg104" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">104</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">D'Andelot, Sieur, <a href="#Pg248" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">248</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dinan, <a href="#Pg044" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">44</a>, <a href="#Pg050" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">50</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dinan, Françoise de, <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-style: italic">see</span></span> Françoise.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dinan, Roland de, <a href="#Pg053" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">53</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dinard, <a href="#Pg044" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">44</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dogs of St. Malo, <a href="#Pg042" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">42</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dol, <a href="#Pg030" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">30</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Douarnenez, <a href="#Pg276" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">276</a>, <a href="#Pg279" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">279</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dubourg, <a href="#Pg029" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">29</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Du Guesclin, <a href="#Pg024" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">24</a>, <a href="#Pg044" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">44</a>, <a href="#Pg045" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">45</a>, <a href="#Pg051" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">51</a>, <a href="#Pg053" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">53</a>, <a href="#Pg074" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">74</a>, <a href="#Pg143" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">143</a>, <a href="#Pg162" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">162</a>, <a href="#Pg209" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">209</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Elven, Château of, <a href="#Pg199" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">199</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Edward III., <a href="#Pg015" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">15</a>, <a href="#Pg112" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">112</a>, <a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">153</a>, <a href="#Pg223" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">223</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Edward IV., <a href="#Pg201" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">201</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Escoublac, <a href="#Pg232" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">232</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Estouteville, Sieur d', <a href="#Pg013" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">13</a>, <a href="#Pg026" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">26</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Epinglettes, <a href="#Pg160" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">160</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ermine, Order of, <a href="#Pg126" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">126</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Filet, saint, <a href="#Pg264" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">264</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Faouët, Le, <a href="#Pg287" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">287</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Folgoët, Le, <a href="#Pg120" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">120</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Fouquet, N., <a href="#Pg256" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">256</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Francis I., Duke of Brittany, <a href="#Pg047" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">47</a>, <a href="#Pg126" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">126</a> <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-style: italic">note</span></span>, <a href="#Pg185" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">185</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Francis II., Duke of Brittany, <a href="#Pg221" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">221</a>, <a href="#Pg229" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">229</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Françoise de Dinan, <a href="#Pg046" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">46</a>, <a href="#Pg215" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">215</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Fontenelle le Ligueur, <a href="#Pg267" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">267</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Frérie Blanche, <a href="#Pg072" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">72</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Frobisher, <a href="#Pg134" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">134</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Gavr' Inis, <a href="#Pg174" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">174</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Gesril du Papeu, <a href="#Pg166" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">166</a>, <a href="#Pg167" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">167</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Gilles de Bretagne, <a href="#Pg046" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">46</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Goëmon (wrack), <a href="#Pg094" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">94</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Grallo, King, <a href="#Pg139" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">139</a>, <a href="#Pg275" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">275</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Guérande, <a href="#Pg245" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">245</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Guimiliau, <a href="#Pg115" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">115</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Granville, <a href="#Pg021" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">21</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Guingamp, <a href="#Pg072" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">72</a>.</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page315">[pg 315]</span><a name="Pg315" id="Pg315" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Hædic, Isle, <a href="#Pg250" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">250</a>, <a href="#Pg257" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">257</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Haye du Puits, La, <a href="#Pg017" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">17</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Harcourt, G. d', <a href="#Pg015" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">15</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Hennebont, <a href="#Pg156" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">156</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Henry II., <a href="#Pg004" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">4</a>, <a href="#Pg024" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">24</a>, <a href="#Pg026" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">26</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Henry IV., <a href="#Pg071" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">71</a>, <a href="#Pg134" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">134</a>, <a href="#Pg191" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">191</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Henry V., <a href="#Pg013" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">13</a>, <a href="#Pg026" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">26</a>, <a href="#Pg134" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">134</a>, <a href="#Pg201" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">201</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Henry VI., <a href="#Pg201" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">201</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Henry VII., <a href="#Pg201" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">201</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Henry VIII., <a href="#Pg128" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">128</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Henri IV., <a href="#Pg216" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">216</a>, <a href="#Pg225" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">225</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Hercé, <a href="#Pg167" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">167</a>, <a href="#Pg183" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">183</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Hoche, Gen., <a href="#Pg166" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">166</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Hunaudaye, Château de la, <a href="#Pg062" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">62</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Huelgoat, <a href="#Pg300" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">300</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Indian corn, <a href="#Pg251" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">251</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Inclined axis of church, <a href="#Pg106" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">106</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Is, City of, <a href="#Pg274" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">274</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ingrandes, <a href="#Pg217" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">217</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">James II., <a href="#Pg072" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">72</a>, <a href="#Pg205" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">205</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Jean de Montfort, <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">67</a>, <a href="#Pg112" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">112</a>, <a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">153</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Jeanne d'Arc, <a href="#Pg190" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">190</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Jeanne de Flandre (Montfort), <a href="#Pg083" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">83</a>, <a href="#Pg156" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">156</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Jeanne de France, <a href="#Pg185" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">185</a>, <a href="#Pg219" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">219</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Jeanne de Penthièvre, <a href="#Pg083" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">83</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Jeanne (Joan) of Navarre, <a href="#Pg106" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">106</a>, <a href="#Pg121" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">121</a>, <a href="#Pg134" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">134</a>, <a href="#Pg194" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">194</a>, <a href="#Pg246" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">246</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">John I. (Roux), <a href="#Pg189" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">189</a>, <a href="#Pg194" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">194</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">John II., <a href="#Pg204" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">204</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">John III. (Bon), <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">67</a>, <a href="#Pg160" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">160</a>, <a href="#Pg205" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">205</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">John IV. (Victorieux), <a href="#Pg025" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">25</a>, <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">67</a>, <a href="#Pg071" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">71</a>, <a href="#Pg119" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">119</a>, <a href="#Pg121" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">121</a>, <a href="#Pg126" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">126</a>, <a href="#Pg160" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">160</a>, <a href="#Pg185" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">185</a>, <a href="#Pg223" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">223</a>, <a href="#Pg246" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">246</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">John V., <a href="#Pg088" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">88</a>, <a href="#Pg121" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">121</a>, <a href="#Pg185" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">185</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Josselin, Château, <a href="#Pg211" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">211</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Jugon, <a href="#Pg061" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">61</a>, <a href="#Pg187" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">187</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Kergrist, Château, <a href="#Pg096" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">96</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Kermartin, <a href="#Pg084" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">84</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Kermario, <a href="#Pg177" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">177</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Kersanton stone, <a href="#Pg122" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">122</a>, <a href="#Pg135" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">135</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Kerserho, <a href="#Pg181" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">181</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Kerscaven, <a href="#Pg269" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">269</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Knights Templars, <a href="#Pg069" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">69</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Knollys, Sir R., <a href="#Pg119" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">119</a>, <a href="#Pg143" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">143</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Korn-er-Hoët, <a href="#Pg187" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">187</a>.</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page316">[pg 316]</span><a name="Pg316" id="Pg316" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">La Forêt, Bay, <a href="#Pg143" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">143</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">La Garaye, Château of, <a href="#Pg057" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">57</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lamballe, <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">67</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lanleff, <a href="#Pg068" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">68</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Langoat, <a href="#Pg083" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">83</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Langoustes, <a href="#Pg094" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">94</a>, <a href="#Pg147" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">147</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lannion, <a href="#Pg094" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">94</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lanvaux, Lande de, <a href="#Pg187" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">187</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Larochejaquelin, <a href="#Pg022" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">22</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">La Tour d'Auvergne, <a href="#Pg297" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">297</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lehon Abbey, <a href="#Pg056" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">56</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lavandières de la Nuit, <a href="#Pg290" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">290</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lesage, <a href="#Pg188" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">188</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Léonnais, <a href="#Pg103" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">103</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Léon, Viscounts, <a href="#Pg110" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">110</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lézardrieux, <a href="#Pg080" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">80</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lessay, <a href="#Pg017" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">17</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Locmariaker, <a href="#Pg170" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">170</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Loctudy, <a href="#Pg261" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">261</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Lorient, <a href="#Pg155" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">155</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Louis XI., <a href="#Pg026" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">26</a>, <a href="#Pg201" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">201</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Louis XII., <a href="#Pg032" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">32</a>, <a href="#Pg223" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">223</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Louis XIV., <a href="#Pg119" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">119</a>, <a href="#Pg189" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">189</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Manny, Sir W., <a href="#Pg128" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">128</a>, <a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">153</a>, <a href="#Pg157" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">157</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Manoir, <a href="#Pg081" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">81</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Martinvast, <a href="#Pg012" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">12</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Matilda, Empress, <a href="#Pg003" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">3</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Mary, daughter of Edward III., <a href="#Pg106" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">106</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Mercœur, Duke de, <a href="#Pg225" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">225</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Menhir, <a href="#Pg035" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">35</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Mingant Rock, <a href="#Pg119" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">119</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Minihy (sanctuaries), <a href="#Pg088" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">88</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Mivoie, Chêne de, <a href="#Pg207" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">207</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Montafilant, Château, <a href="#Pg046" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">46</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Montfort, <a href="#Pg215" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">215</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Mont St. Michel, <a href="#Pg025" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">25</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Motto of Dukes of Brittany, <a href="#Pg126" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">126</a>, <a href="#Pg161" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">161</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Morbihan Sea, <a href="#Pg174" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">174</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Morlaix, <a href="#Pg097" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">97</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Nacqueville, Château, <a href="#Pg006" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">6</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Nantes, <a href="#Pg221" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">221</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Napoleon I., <a href="#Pg003" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">3</a>, <a href="#Pg004" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">4</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Notre Dame-de-Comfort, church, <a href="#Pg279" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">279</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Notre Dame-du-Roncier, <a href="#Pg213" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">213</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Octeville, <a href="#Pg005" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">5</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ouëssant Isle, <a href="#Pg128" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">128</a>, <a href="#Pg133" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">133</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page317">[pg 317]</span><a name="Pg317" id="Pg317" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Paimbœuf, <a href="#Pg229" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">229</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Paimpol, <a href="#Pg080" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">80</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Palais, Le, <a href="#Pg251" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">251</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Penmarch, <a href="#Pg263" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">263</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Penmarch, Torche de, <a href="#Pg262" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">262</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Penthièvre, <a href="#Pg149" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">149</a>, <a href="#Pg210" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">210</a>, <a href="#Pg225" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">225</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Périers, <a href="#Pg018" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">18</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Perros Guirec, <a href="#Pg092" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">92</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Peter, Duke, <a href="#Pg072" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">72</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Philip Augustus, <a href="#Pg028" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">28</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pierre de Dreux, <a href="#Pg216" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">216</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pierres de Croix, <a href="#Pg286" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">286</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pleudaniel, <a href="#Pg081" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">81</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ploërmel, <a href="#Pg203" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">203</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Plouaret, <a href="#Pg096" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">96</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Plougastel, <a href="#Pg133" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">133</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Plouharnel, <a href="#Pg180" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">180</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ploumanach, <a href="#Pg092" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">92</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pointe du Raz, <a href="#Pg271" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">271</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pole, W. de la, Earl of Suffolk, <a href="#Pg013" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">13</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pontacallec, Marquis de, <a href="#Pg226" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">226</a>, <a href="#Pg294" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">294</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pontaven, <a href="#Pg150" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">150</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pontcroix, <a href="#Pg276" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">276</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pont l'Abbé, <a href="#Pg257" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">257</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Pontorson, <a href="#Pg024" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">24</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Port Navalo, <a href="#Pg250" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">250</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Potatoes, <a href="#Pg251" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">251</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Poulignan, <a href="#Pg233" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">233</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Porzmoguer, <a href="#Pg130" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">130</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Querqueville, <a href="#Pg005" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">5</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Quiberon, <a href="#Pg165" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">165</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Quimper, <a href="#Pg138" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">138</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Quimperlé, <a href="#Pg151" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">151</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rance River, <a href="#Pg043" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">43</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Richelieu, Cardinal, <a href="#Pg096" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">96</a>, <a href="#Pg119" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">119</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Richelieu, Duke, <a href="#Pg082" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">82</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rennes, <a href="#Pg216" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">216</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Retz, Cardinal, <a href="#Pg226" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">226</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rieux, Marshal, <a href="#Pg202" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">202</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">River scenery, <a href="#Pg103" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">103</a>, <a href="#Pg216" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">216</a>, <a href="#Pg250" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">250</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Roads, <a href="#Pg084" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">84</a>, <a href="#Pg091" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">91</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Roche Bernard, La, <a href="#Pg247" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">247</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Roche Derrien, La, <a href="#Pg082" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">82</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Roche Jagu, La, <a href="#Pg081" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">81</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rochefort, Chancellor, <a href="#Pg229" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">229</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rocking stones, <a href="#Pg093" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">93</a>, <a href="#Pg149" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">149</a>, <a href="#Pg300" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">300</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rohan family, <a href="#Pg098" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">98</a>, <a href="#Pg099" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">99</a>, <a href="#Pg111" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">111</a>, <a href="#Pg210" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">210</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rosaries, <a href="#Pg282" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">282</a>.</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page318">[pg 318]</span><a name="Pg318" id="Pg318" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Roscoff, <a href="#Pg111" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">111</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rosgrand, <a href="#Pg153" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">153</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rosporden, <a href="#Pg285" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">285</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Rustéphan, Château, <a href="#Pg149" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">149</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sacring bells, <a href="#Pg279" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">279</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Saire, Monk of, <a href="#Pg005" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">5</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ste. Anne la Palue, <a href="#Pg282" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">282</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">St. Armal, <a href="#Pg204" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">204</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Aubin du Cormier, <a href="#Pg229" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">229</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Ste. Barbe, <a href="#Pg287" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">287</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">St. Brieuc, <a href="#Pg071" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">71</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Corentin, <a href="#Pg137" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">137</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Cornély, <a href="#Pg178" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">178</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Fiacre, <a href="#Pg020" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">20</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">—  "  church, <a href="#Pg293" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">293</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Florent, <a href="#Pg217" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">217</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Génévroc, <a href="#Pg105" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">105</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Germain, <a href="#Pg005" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">5</a>, <a href="#Pg034" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">34</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Gildas, <a href="#Pg192" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">192</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Guenolé, <a href="#Pg263" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">263</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Herbot, <a href="#Pg303" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">303</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Ives, <a href="#Pg085" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">85</a>, <a href="#Pg088" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">88</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Léonard, <a href="#Pg075" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">75</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Malo, <a href="#Pg039" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">39</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Mathieu, <a href="#Pg129" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">129</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Michael, Order of, <a href="#Pg026" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">26</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Nazaire, <a href="#Pg230" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">230</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Pair, <a href="#Pg023" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">23</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Pol de Léon, <a href="#Pg103" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">103</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Samson, <a href="#Pg032" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">32</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Thégonnec, <a href="#Pg114" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">114</a>, <a href="#Pg117" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">117</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Urlose, <a href="#Pg152" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">152</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">— Vincente Ferrar, <a href="#Pg184" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">184</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Salt, <a href="#Pg233" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">233</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sardine fishery, <a href="#Pg144" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">144</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sarzeau, <a href="#Pg192" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">192</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Scaër, <a href="#Pg285" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">285</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Scales, Lord, <a href="#Pg021" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">21</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sein, Isle, <a href="#Pg272" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">272</a>.</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page319">[pg 319]</span><a name="Pg319" id="Pg319" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sevigné, Madame de, <a href="#Pg203" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">203</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Skull-boxes, <a href="#Pg091" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">91</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sœurs de la Miséricorde, <a href="#Pg016" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">16</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sœurs de le Providence, <a href="#Pg011" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">11</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sombreuil, Comte de, <a href="#Pg164" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">164</a>, <a href="#Pg183" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">183</a>, <a href="#Pg184" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">184</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Stuart, Charles, <a href="#Pg113" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">113</a>, <a href="#Pg230" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">230</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Stuart, Mary, <a href="#Pg098" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">98</a>, <a href="#Pg112" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">112</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Sucinio, Château, <a href="#Pg189" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">189</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Teigneuse, Isle, <a href="#Pg250" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">250</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Thomas à Becket, <a href="#Pg024" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">24</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Tocqueville, A. de, <a href="#Pg007" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">7</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Tombeleine, Isle, <a href="#Pg028" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">28</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Touquédec, Château, <a href="#Pg095" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">95</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Tourlaville, Château, <a href="#Pg007" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">7</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Tréguier, <a href="#Pg088" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">88</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Trégunc, <a href="#Pg149" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">149</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Trieux River, <a href="#Pg080" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">80</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Trinité, La, <a href="#Pg130" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">130</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Tumiac, Butte de, <a href="#Pg199" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">199</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Typhaine, the Lady, <a href="#Pg024" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">24</a>, <a href="#Pg044" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">44</a>, <a href="#Pg054" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">54</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Valognes, <a href="#Pg014" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">14</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Vannes, <a href="#Pg183" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">183</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Varades, <a href="#Pg217" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">217</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Vendean army, <a href="#Pg217" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">217</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Veneti, <a href="#Pg183" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">183</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Venus' ear, <a href="#Pg002" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">2</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Victoria, Queen, <a href="#Pg001" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">1</a>, <a href="#Pg003" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">3</a>, <a href="#Pg014" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">14</a>.</div>
+</div><div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Walsh, <a href="#Pg230" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">230</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">War of the two Jeannes, <a href="#Pg083" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">83</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">War of Succession, <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">67</a> <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-style: italic">note</span></span>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Washing, <a href="#Pg018" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">18</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Wells, holy, <a href="#Pg125" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">125</a>, <a href="#Pg285" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">285</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Welsh Baptists, <a href="#Pg100" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">100</a>.</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">William the Conqueror, <a href="#Pg004" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">4</a>.</div>
+</div></div>
+</div>
+<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page320">[pg 320]</span><a name="Pg320" id="Pg320" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>
+
+
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="tei tei-back" style="margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 6.00em">
+
+<hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+<a name="toc14" id="toc14"></a>
+<a name="pdf15" id="pdf15"></a>
+<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Transcribers' Notes</span></h1>
+<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following substitutions were applied to the text by
+Project Gutenberg proofers and transcribers—</p>
+<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg007" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">7</a>: "recals" —&gt; "recalls"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg025" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">25</a>: "John IV Duke of Britanny" —&gt; "Brittany"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg093" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">93</a>: "slighest" —&gt; "slightest"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg104" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">104</a>: "calvarys" —&gt; "calvaries"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">In Ill. 22: "Creisker" —&gt; "Creizker"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg144" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">144</a>: "mackarel" —&gt; "mackerel"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg149" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">149</a>: "out out" —&gt; "out"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg167" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">167</a>: twice "d'Angoulme" —&gt; "d'Angoulême"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg178" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">178</a>: "Erdevan" —&gt; "Erdeven"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On pages <a href="#Pg196" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">196</a>/<a href="#Pg197" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">197</a>: several extra double quotes removed</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg212" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">212</a>: "ballustrades" —&gt; "balustrades"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg270" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">270</a>: "promonotory" —&gt; "promontory"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg272" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">272</a>: "corronation" —&gt; "coronation"</div>
+<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">On page <a href="#Pg303" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: left">303</a>: "in in" —&gt; "in"</div></div>
+</div>
+    <hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">
+      <div id="pgfooter" class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"><pre class="pre tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em">***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY &amp; ITS BYWAYS***
+</pre><hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"><a name="rightpageheader16" id="rightpageheader16"></a><a name="pgtoc17" id="pgtoc17"></a><a name="pdf18" id="pdf18"></a><h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Credits</span></h1><table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><tbody><tr><th class="tei tei-label tei-label-gloss">&gt;November 9, 2007  </th></tr><tr><td class="tei tei-item"><table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><tbody><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item">Project Gutenberg TEI edition 02</td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><span class="tei tei-respStmt"><span class="tei tei-name">Ralf Stephan</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><tbody><tr><th class="tei tei-label tei-label-gloss">November 9, 2007  </th></tr><tr><td class="tei tei-item"><table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><tbody><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item">Project Gutenberg TEI edition 01</td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><span class="tei tei-respStmt"><span class="tei tei-name">Ralf Stephan and The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr)</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></div><hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"><a name="rightpageheader19" id="rightpageheader19"></a><a name="pgtoc20" id="pgtoc20"></a><a name="pdf21" id="pdf21"></a><h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">A Word from Project Gutenberg</span></h1><p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This file should be named 
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+      <title>Brittany &amp; Its Byways</title>
+      <author><name reg="Bury Palliser, Fanny">Fanny Bury Palliser</name></author>
+    </titleStmt>
+    <editionStmt>
+      <edition n="02">
+        Edition 02
+      </edition>
+    </editionStmt>
+    <publicationStmt>
+      <publisher>Project Gutenberg</publisher>
+      <date value="2007-11-09">November 9, 2007</date>
+      <idno type="etext-no">22700</idno>
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+        License online at www.gutenberg.org/license</p>
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+          <item>Brittany</item>
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+<pb n="I"/><anchor id="PgI"/>
+      <p rend="font-size: xx-large; text-align: center">BRITTANY &amp; ITS BYWAYS</p>
+      <p rend="text-align: center; smallcaps">some account of<lb/>
+      its inhabitants and its antiquities;<lb/>
+              during a residence in that country.</p>
+      <p rend="font-size: xx-large; text-align: center">BY MRS. BURY PALLISER</p>
+      <pgIf output="txt">
+      <then><p>[Illustration: Vignette: St. Michael's Mount]</p></then>
+      <else><p><figure rend="text-align: center; w50" url="images/image00.jpg">
+      <figDesc></figDesc>
+   </figure></p></else></pgIf>
+      <p rend="text-align: center; smallcaps">with numerous illustrations</p>
+      <milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 25%" />
+      <p rend="font-size: x-large; text-align: center">London</p>
+      <p rend="font-size: x-large; text-align: center">1869</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div rend="page-break-before: right">
+      <index index="pdf" />
+      <head>Contents</head>
+      <divGen type="toc" />
+    </div>
+
+  </front>
+
+  <body>
+<div rend="page-break-before: right">
+<pb n="III"/><anchor id="PgIII"/>
+<index index="toc" />
+<index index="pdf" />
+<head rend="hsmallcaps">Contents.</head>
+
+<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 20%" />
+
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Cherbourg</hi>&mdash;Mont du Roule&mdash;Visit of Queen Victoria&mdash;Harbour,
+<ref target="Pg001">1</ref>&mdash;Breakwater&mdash;Dock-Yard, <ref target="Pg002">2</ref>&mdash;Chantereyne&mdash;H�pital
+de la Marine, <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>&mdash;Castle&mdash;Statue of Napoleon I.&mdash;Library&mdash;Church
+of La Trinit�, <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>&mdash;Environs&mdash;Octeville,
+<ref target="Pg005">5</ref>&mdash;Lace-school of the S&oelig;urs de la Providence, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Querqueville</hi>&mdash;Church of St. Germain, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>&mdash;Ch�teau of the
+Comte de Tocqueville, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Tourlaville</hi>&mdash;Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>&mdash;Cr�pes, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Martinvast</hi>&mdash;Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg012">12</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Bricquebec</hi>&mdash;Castle&mdash;History, <ref target="Pg012">12</ref>&mdash;Valognes, <ref target="Pg014">14</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Sauveur</hi>-le-Vicomte&mdash;Demesne&mdash;History, <ref target="Pg015">15</ref>&mdash;Castle&mdash;Convent&mdash;Abbey, <ref target="Pg016">16</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">P�riers</hi>, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>&mdash;La Haye-du-Puits, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>&mdash;Abbey of Lessay&mdash;Mode
+of Washing&mdash;Inn-signs, <ref target="Pg018">18</ref>&mdash;Church, <ref target="Pg019">19</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Coutances</hi>&mdash;Cathedral&mdash;Churches, <ref target="Pg019">19</ref>&mdash;F�te of St. Fiacre, <ref target="Pg020">20</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Granville</hi>&mdash;Situation&mdash;History&mdash;Church, <ref target="Pg021">21</ref>&mdash;View from the
+"Roc"&mdash;Bathing-machines&mdash;Defeat of the Vendean army&mdash;Death
+of La Rochejacquelin, <ref target="Pg022">22</ref>&mdash;Costume of the Women&mdash;Environs&mdash;St.
+Pair, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Avranches</hi>&mdash;Extensive View&mdash;Scene of Absolution of Henry II.&mdash;Cemetery,
+<ref target="Pg024">24</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pontorson</hi>&mdash;Story of the Lady Typhaine, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>&mdash;Government by
+Du Guesclin&mdash;Mont St. Michel, <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>&mdash;Chapel of St. Aubert&mdash;Visits
+of English kings&mdash;Pilgrimages of Kings of France, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>&mdash;Convent
+of "La Merveille," <ref target="Pg027">27</ref>&mdash;Isle of La Tombeleine&mdash;Prison,
+<ref target="Pg028">28</ref>&mdash;The Iron Cage, <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Dol-de-Bretagne</hi>&mdash;Street Architecture, <ref target="Pg030">30</ref>&mdash;Cathedral, <ref target="Pg031">31</ref>&mdash;Tomb
+of Bishop James&mdash;Chapel of St. Samson, <ref target="Pg032">32</ref>&mdash;Monks,
+<ref target="Pg033">33</ref>&mdash;Dyke, <ref target="Pg034">34</ref>&mdash;Menhir, <ref target="Pg035">35</ref>&mdash;Ch�teau of Combourg, <ref target="Pg036">36</ref>&mdash;Chateaubriand,
+<ref target="Pg037">37</ref>.</p>
+
+<pb n="IV"/><anchor id="PgIV"/>
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Cancale</hi>&mdash;Oysters, <ref target="Pg037">37</ref>&mdash;Wretched public vehicles, <ref target="Pg038">38</ref>&mdash;Bay, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Malo</hi>&mdash;Situation, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>&mdash;Sea-wall, <ref target="Pg040">40</ref>&mdash;Tomb of Chateaubriand&mdash;Memorials
+of him, <ref target="Pg041">41</ref>&mdash;Watch-dogs, <ref target="Pg042">42</ref>&mdash;Castle&mdash;History,
+<ref target="Pg043">43</ref>&mdash;<hi rend="smallcaps">Dinard</hi>, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Dinan</hi>&mdash;Ascent of the Rance&mdash;Statue of Du Guesclin, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>&mdash;Siege
+of 1359&mdash;Duel of Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorb�ry,
+<ref target="Pg045">45</ref>&mdash;Castle of Montfilant&mdash;Story of Gilles de Bretagne,
+<ref target="Pg046">46</ref>&mdash;Lunatic Asylum&mdash;Castle of Dinan, <ref target="Pg050">50</ref>&mdash;Church of
+St. Sauveur, <ref target="Pg051">51</ref>&mdash;Museum, <ref target="Pg052">52</ref>&mdash;Environs&mdash;Ch�teau of La
+Belli�re, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref>&mdash;Ch�teau of La Garaye&mdash;Count Claude de la
+Garaye and his Wife, <ref target="Pg057">57</ref>&mdash;Jugon, <ref target="Pg061">61</ref>&mdash;Castle of La Hunaudaye,
+<ref target="Pg062">62</ref>&mdash;Legend of La Hunaudaye, <ref target="Pg063">63</ref>&mdash;Forest of La
+Hunaudaye&mdash;The Chouan War, <ref target="Pg066">66</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Lamballe</hi>&mdash;Jeanne la Boiteuse&mdash;War of Succession, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>&mdash;Temple
+of Lanleff, <ref target="Pg068">68</ref>&mdash;Tradition of the blood-spots, <ref target="Pg070">70</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Brieuc</hi>&mdash;Palais de Justice&mdash;Tour de Cesson, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>&mdash;Church
+of Notre Dame&mdash;Review of his army by James II. of England,
+<ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Guingamp</hi>&mdash;Situation&mdash;Fishing in the Trieux&mdash;Sanctuary of
+Notre Dame du Bon Secours&mdash;"Fr�rie blanche," <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>&mdash;Fountain
+of Duke Peter&mdash;Women of Guingamp&mdash;Knitting and
+spinning&mdash;Ransom for Du Guesclin, <ref target="Pg074">74</ref>&mdash;Chapel of St.
+Leonard patron saint of prisoners&mdash;Curious charms against
+fever, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Paimpol</hi>&mdash;Ch�teau de Boisgelin, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>&mdash;Abbey of Beauport, <ref target="Pg076">76</ref>&mdash;Situation
+of Paimpol&mdash;Suspension-bridge of L�zardrieux, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>&mdash;Ch�teau
+of La Roche Jagu, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pontrieux</hi>&mdash;Castle of La Roche Derrien, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>&mdash;"War of the two
+Jeannes"&mdash;Church of Langoat&mdash;Monument of Ste. Pomp�e,
+<ref target="Pg083">83</ref>&mdash;Burial customs&mdash;Excellence of roads in Brittany, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Kermartin</hi>&mdash;St. Ives, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>&mdash;Inscription at his birthplace&mdash;Interior
+of a Breton dwelling, <ref target="Pg086">86</ref>&mdash;Church of Minihy-Tr�guier&mdash;Will
+of St. Ives, <ref target="Pg087">87</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Tr�guier</hi>&mdash;Cathedral&mdash;Burial-place of St. Ives, <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>&mdash;Constable
+Clisson, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>&mdash;Cemetery, <ref target="Pg090">90</ref>&mdash;Skull-boxes, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Lannion</hi>&mdash;Difficulty of the road, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>&mdash;Perros Guirec&mdash;Ploumanach&mdash;Roche
+Pendue, <ref target="Pg092">92</ref>&mdash;Situation of Lannion&mdash;Fishery&mdash;Sea-weed
+gathering, <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>&mdash;Castle of Touqu�dec, <ref target="Pg095">95</ref>&mdash;Ch�teau
+of Kergrist, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>.</p>
+
+<pb n="V"/><anchor id="PgV"/>
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Morlaix</hi>&mdash;Situation&mdash;Timbered houses, <ref target="Pg097">97</ref>&mdash;History, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>&mdash;Breton
+characteristics, <ref target="Pg099">99</ref>&mdash;Protestant Missions, <ref target="Pg100">100</ref>&mdash;"Fontaine
+des Anglais," <ref target="Pg102">102</ref>&mdash;River Scenery, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Pol de L�on</hi>, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>&mdash;Religious Monuments&mdash;Character of the
+L�onnais, <ref target="Pg104">104</ref>&mdash;Church of Notre Dame de Creizker&mdash;Legend of
+St. G�n�vroc, <ref target="Pg105">105</ref>&mdash;Cathedral, <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>&mdash;St. Pol and the Dragon,
+<ref target="Pg109">109</ref>&mdash;Ursuline Convent&mdash;"Droit de Motte," <ref target="Pg110">110</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Roscoff</hi>&mdash;Contraband trade with England&mdash;Vegetable produce,
+<ref target="Pg111">111</ref>&mdash;Historic importance, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>&mdash;Church&mdash;Island of Batz&mdash;Enormous
+old fig-tree, <ref target="Pg113">113</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Th�gonnec Station</hi>&mdash;Cabaret&mdash;Church, <ref target="Pg114">114</ref>&mdash;Guimiliau
+Church&mdash;Sculptures, <ref target="Pg115">115</ref>&mdash;Calvary, <ref target="Pg116">116</ref>&mdash;Buckwheat, <ref target="Pg117">117</ref>&mdash;Castle
+and Church of La Roche Maurice, <ref target="Pg118">118</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Brest</hi>&mdash;Situation, <ref target="Pg118">118</ref>&mdash;Harbour, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>&mdash;Church of the Folgo�t&mdash;Legend,
+<ref target="Pg120">120</ref>&mdash;Kersanton stone, <ref target="Pg122">122</ref>&mdash;Sculptures in Kersanton
+stone, <ref target="Pg123">123</ref>&mdash;The Fool's Well, <ref target="Pg124">124</ref>&mdash;Exterior of Church,
+<ref target="Pg125">125</ref>&mdash;Churchyard, <ref target="Pg127">127</ref>&mdash;Monthly Fair of Brest&mdash;Peasants'
+Costumes, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Finist�re</hi>&mdash;Abbey of St. Mathieu, <ref target="Pg129">129</ref>&mdash;Sea-fights, <ref target="Pg130">130</ref>&mdash;Pont
+Launay and Ch�teaulin, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Quimper</hi>, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>&mdash;Legend of St. Corentin, <ref target="Pg137">137</ref>&mdash;Cathedral, <ref target="Pg139">139</ref>&mdash;National
+costume, <ref target="Pg140">140</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Concarneau</hi>, <ref target="Pg142">142</ref>&mdash;Sardine Fishery, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>&mdash;Aquarium, <ref target="Pg147">147</ref>&mdash;Dolmen
+and Rocking-stone of Tr�gunc&mdash;Ch�teau of Rust�phan,
+<ref target="Pg149">149</ref>&mdash;Valley of Pontaven, <ref target="Pg150">150</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Quimperl�</hi>&mdash;Fishing, <ref target="Pg151">151</ref>&mdash;Buildings&mdash;Tomb of St. Gurlo�s,
+<ref target="Pg152">152</ref>&mdash;Tomb of John de Montfort&mdash;Ruins of St. Columban,
+<ref target="Pg153">153</ref>&mdash;Dirtiness of the Bretons&mdash;Animals and Farm produce&mdash;Butter
+Indulgence, <ref target="Pg154">154</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Lorient</hi>&mdash;Bisson and the Pirates, <ref target="Pg155">155</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Hennebont</hi>&mdash;Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, <ref target="Pg156">156</ref>&mdash;Church
+of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, <ref target="Pg157">157</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Ste. Anne D'auray</hi>, <ref target="Pg158">158</ref>&mdash;Scala Sancta&mdash;F�te, <ref target="Pg159">159</ref>&mdash;Chartreuse,
+<ref target="Pg160">160</ref>&mdash;Battle, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>&mdash;Deaf and Dumb School, <ref target="Pg164">164</ref>&mdash;Massacre
+of Quiberon, <ref target="Pg165">165</ref>&mdash;Champ des Martyrs, <ref target="Pg168">168</ref>&mdash;Celtic
+Remains, <ref target="Pg169">169</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Locmariaker</hi>&mdash;Tumulus&mdash;Celtic and other Remains, <ref target="Pg170">170</ref>&mdash;Tumulus
+of Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg175">175</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Carnac</hi>&mdash;Celtic Remains&mdash;Menhirs of Kermario, <ref target="Pg177">177</ref>&mdash;Legend
+of St. Corn�ly, <ref target="Pg178">178</ref>&mdash;Jade Celts, &amp;c., at Plouharnel, <ref target="Pg180">180</ref>&mdash;Dolmen
+of Concorro, <ref target="Pg181">181</ref>.</p>
+
+<pb n="VI"/><anchor id="PgVI"/>
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Vannes</hi>&mdash;History&mdash;Promenade, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>&mdash;Cathedral, <ref target="Pg184">184</ref>&mdash;Ch�teau
+Gaillau&mdash;Tour du Conn�table, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>&mdash;Model Village of Korner-ho�t,
+<ref target="Pg187">187</ref>&mdash;Peninsula of Rhuys, <ref target="Pg188">188</ref>&mdash;Fortress of Sucinio,
+<ref target="Pg189">189</ref>&mdash;Abbey of St. Gildas, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>&mdash;Abelard and the Breton
+Monks, <ref target="Pg193">193</ref>&mdash;The Breton "Blue Beard," <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>&mdash;Butte d'Arzon&mdash;Castle
+of Elven, <ref target="Pg199">199</ref>&mdash;Growth of Chestnuts, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Plo�rmel</hi>, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>&mdash;Church, <ref target="Pg204">204</ref>&mdash;Tombs, <ref target="Pg205">205</ref>&mdash;Column of the
+Thirty, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref>&mdash;Battle of the Thirty, <ref target="Pg207">207</ref>&mdash;Ch�teau of Josselin,
+<ref target="Pg209">209</ref>&mdash;Church of Josselin, <ref target="Pg213">213</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Montfort-sur-mer</hi>&mdash;Forest of Paimpont&mdash;Fairy tales, <ref target="Pg215">215</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Rennes</hi>, ancient capital of Brittany&mdash;Entry of Henry IV.&mdash;Scenery
+of the Loire, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>&mdash;Castle of Champtoceaux, <ref target="Pg218">218</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Nantes</hi>&mdash;Cathedral, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>&mdash;Tombs, <ref target="Pg222">222</ref>&mdash;Castle&mdash;Anne of Brittany,
+<ref target="Pg223">223</ref>&mdash;Promenades and Boulevards&mdash;Museum, <ref target="Pg227">227</ref>&mdash;Jardin
+des Plantes&mdash;Descent of the Loire&mdash;The Noyades, <ref target="Pg228">228</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">St. Nazaire</hi>&mdash;Historical associations, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>&mdash;Le Croisic,
+<ref target="Pg232">232</ref>&mdash;Salt-pans, <ref target="Pg233">233</ref>&mdash;Costume of the Paludiers, <ref target="Pg234">234</ref>&mdash;Saulniers&mdash;Chouan:
+origin of the name and of the War, <ref target="Pg241">241</ref>&mdash;Church
+of Batz, <ref target="Pg243">243</ref>&mdash;Situation of Le Croisic, <ref target="Pg244">244</ref>&mdash;Chapel of St.
+Goustan, <ref target="Pg245">245</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Gu�rande</hi>&mdash;Church of St Aubin&mdash;Chapel of Notre Dame
+Blanche, <ref target="Pg246">246</ref>&mdash;La Roche Bernard, <ref target="Pg247">247</ref>&mdash;Wedding Festivities,
+<ref target="Pg248">248</ref>&mdash;National Music&mdash;Female Costume&mdash;F�te de la Vierge
+and of the Emperor, <ref target="Pg249">249</ref>&mdash;Scenery of the River Loch, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Belle Isle</hi>&mdash;Le Palais&mdash;M. Trochu's Model Farm, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>&mdash;Breton
+fatalism, <ref target="Pg252">252</ref>&mdash;Grotte du Port Coton, <ref target="Pg255">255</ref>&mdash;Historical associations
+of Belle Isle, <ref target="Pg256">256</ref>&mdash;Fishery, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pont L'abb�</hi>, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>&mdash;Costumes, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref>&mdash;Church, <ref target="Pg259">259</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Loctudy</hi>&mdash;Romanesque Church, <ref target="Pg261">261</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Torche de Penmarch</hi>, <ref target="Pg262">262</ref>&mdash;Church of St. Guenol�, <ref target="Pg263">263</ref>&mdash;"Le
+filet saint"&mdash;Ruins of the old Town, <ref target="Pg264">264</ref>&mdash;Fontenelle
+the Leaguer, <ref target="Pg267">267</ref>&mdash;Church of St. Nonna, <ref target="Pg268">268</ref>&mdash;Menhirs at
+Kerscaven, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Audierne</hi>&mdash;Lighthouse&mdash;Bathing-machines, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>&mdash;Town, <ref target="Pg270">270</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Pointe Du Raz</hi>&mdash;Popular superstitions&mdash;Church of St. Coll�doc,
+<ref target="Pg271">271</ref>&mdash;"Enfer de Plogoff"&mdash;Island of Sein&mdash;Druidesses,
+<ref target="Pg272">272</ref>&mdash;Dangerous passage, <ref target="Pg273">273</ref>&mdash;Baie des Tr�pass�s&mdash;Submerged
+city of Is, <ref target="Pg274">274</ref>&mdash;Legend of King Gradlon and his
+daughter Dahut, <ref target="Pg275">275</ref>.</p>
+
+<pb n="VII"/><anchor id="PgVII"/>
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Douarnenez</hi>&mdash;Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, <ref target="Pg276">276</ref>&mdash;Chapel
+of Notre Dame de Comfort&mdash;Wheel of Sacring-Bells&mdash;Town
+of Douarnenez, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>&mdash;Pardon of Ste. Anne-de-la-Palue, <ref target="Pg280">280</ref>&mdash;Costume,
+<ref target="Pg281">281</ref>&mdash;Church of Ste. Anne&mdash;Procession, <ref target="Pg282">282</ref>&mdash;Holy
+Well of Ste. Anne, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Sca�r</hi>&mdash;Old Customs and Superstitions, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>&mdash;Wrestling&mdash;"Pierres
+de Croix," <ref target="Pg286">286</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Le Faou�t</hi>&mdash;Chapel of St. Barbe, <ref target="Pg287">287</ref>&mdash;Wedding ceremonies
+and amusements, <ref target="Pg288">288</ref>&mdash;Fishing, <ref target="Pg289">289</ref>&mdash;Old Breton superstitious
+still prevalent&mdash;Lavandi�res de la Nuit, <ref target="Pg290">290</ref>&mdash;Church of
+St. Fiacre&mdash;Elaborately carved Rood-screen, <ref target="Pg293">293</ref>&mdash;Painted
+glass&mdash;Ruined Castle of Poncallec&mdash;Plot of Cellamare, <ref target="Pg294">294</ref>&mdash;Montagnes
+Noires, <ref target="Pg296">296</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Carhaix</hi>&mdash;Situation, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>&mdash;Statue of La Tour d'Auvergne, <ref target="Pg298">298</ref>&mdash;Fair
+and Market&mdash;Church of St. Tremeur&mdash;Skull-boxes, <ref target="Pg299">299</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Huelgoat</hi>, <ref target="Pg300">300</ref>&mdash;Lead-mines, <ref target="Pg301">301</ref>&mdash;Cascade of St. Herbot&mdash;Chapel
+of St. Herbot, <ref target="Pg303">303</ref>&mdash;His tomb, <ref target="Pg304">304</ref>&mdash;Patron of cattle&mdash;Offerings
+of horsehair and cows' tails, <ref target="Pg304">304</ref>&mdash;Homeward
+journey, <ref target="Pg307">307</ref>.</p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Useful Dates</hi> in the History of Brittany           <ref target="Pg309">309</ref></p>
+
+<p><hi rend="smallcaps">Chronological Table</hi> of the Dukes of Brittany      <ref target="Pg310">310</ref></p>
+</div>
+<div rend="page-break-before: right">
+   <index index="pdf" />
+   <index index="toc" />
+   <head rend="hsmallcaps">List of Illustrations.</head>
+
+   <lg rend="indent"> 
+<l><hi rend="smallcaps">Vignette</hi>&mdash;St. Michael's Mount, <ref target="PgI">Title-page</ref>.</l>
+<l>1. Querqueville Church, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref></l>
+<l>2. Plan of Querqueville Church, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref></l>
+<l>3. Ch�teau of Tourlaville, <ref target="Pg009">9</ref></l>
+<l>4. Castle of Bricquebec, <ref target="Pg013">13</ref></l>
+<l>5. Badge of the S&oelig;urs de la Mis�ricorde, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref></l>
+<l>6. Coutances Cathedral, <ref target="Pg020">20</ref></l>
+<l>7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, <ref target="Pg031">31</ref></l>
+<l>8. Front of the Tomb, <ref target="Pg032">32</ref></l>
+<l>9. Menhir, near Dol, <ref target="Pg035">35</ref></l>
+<l>10. Ch�teau of Combourg, <ref target="Pg037">37</ref></l>
+<l>11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, <ref target="Pg038">38</ref></l>
+<l>12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand's Tomb, <ref target="Pg040">40</ref></l>
+<l>13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, <ref target="Pg052">52</ref></l>
+<l>14. Ch�teau of La Belli�re, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref></l>
+<l>15. Chimney, Ch�teau of La Belli�re, <ref target="Pg056">56</ref></l>
+<l>16. Ch�teau of La Garaye, <ref target="Pg060">60</ref></l>
+<l>17. Section of Lanleff Church, <ref target="Pg069">69</ref></l>
+<l>18. Plan of Lanleff Church, <ref target="Pg070">70</ref></l>
+<l>19. Fountain of Duke Peter, <ref target="Pg073">73</ref></l>
+<l>20. Abbey of Beauport, <ref target="Pg077">77</ref></l>
+<l>21. Skull-box, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref></l>
+<l>22. The <corr sic="Creisker">Creizker</corr>, <ref target="Pg107">107</ref></l>
+<l>23. Calvary, Guimiliau, <ref target="Pg116">116</ref></l>
+<l>24. The Fool's Well, Folgo�t, <ref target="Pg124">124</ref></l>
+<l>25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, <ref target="Pg131">131</ref></l>
+<l>26. Peasant Girl of Ou�ssant, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref></l>
+<l>27. Peasant Girl, Ch�teaulin, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref></l>
+<l>28. Begger, Quimper, <ref target="Pg141">141</ref></l>
+<l>29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref></l>
+<l>30. Dolmen, Tr�gunc, <ref target="Pg146">146</ref></l>
+<l>31. Rocking-Stone, Tr�gunc, <ref target="Pg148">148</ref></l>
+<l>32. Ch�teau of Rust�phan, <ref target="Pg150">150</ref></l>
+<l>33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d'Auray, <ref target="Pg159">159</ref></l>
+<l>34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, <ref target="Pg169">169</ref></l>
+<l>35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, <ref target="Pg171">171</ref></l>
+<l>36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, <ref target="Pg173">173</ref></l>
+<l>37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg175">175</ref></l>
+<l>38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg176">176</ref></l>
+<l>40. Dolmen of Corcorro, <ref target="Pg182">182</ref></l>
+<l>41. Castle of Elven, <ref target="Pg200">200</ref></l>
+<l>42. Column of the Thirty, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref></l>
+<l>43. Ch�teau of Josselin, <ref target="Pg212">212</ref></l>
+<l>44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, <ref target="Pg235">235</ref></l>
+<l>45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, <ref target="Pg237">237</ref></l>
+<l>46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, <ref target="Pg239">239</ref></l>
+<l>47. La Roche Bernard, <ref target="Pg247">247</ref></l>
+<l>48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, <ref target="Pg253">253</ref></l>
+<l>49. Device of Fouquet, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref></l>
+<l>50. Peasant Girl, Pont l'Abb�, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref></l>
+<l>51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, <ref target="Pg260">260</ref></l>
+<l>52. Torche of Penmarch, <ref target="Pg262">262</ref></l>
+<l>53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenol�, Penmarch, <ref target="Pg264">264</ref></l>
+<l>54. Church of Guenol�, Penmarch, <ref target="Pg265">265</ref></l>
+<l>55. Fleur-de-lis� Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref></l>
+<l>56. Pointe du Raz, <ref target="Pg270">270</ref></l>
+<l>57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, <ref target="Pg277">277</ref></l>
+<l>58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref></l>
+<l>59. Costume of a Finist�re Bride, <ref target="Pg281">281</ref></l>
+<l>60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, <ref target="Pg284">284</ref></l>
+<l>61. Cross Stones, <ref target="Pg286">286</ref></l>
+<l>62. Rood-screen or Jub�, St. Fiacre, <ref target="Pg291">291</ref></l>
+<l>63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, <ref target="Pg304">304</ref></l>
+<l>64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, <ref target="Pg305">305</ref></l>
+</lg>
+</div>
+<div rend="page-break-before: right">
+<pb n="001"/><anchor id="Pg001"/>
+<index index="toc" />
+<index index="pdf" />
+<head rend="hsmallcaps">Britanny and Its Byways.</head>
+<p>A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole
+to Cherbourg. It was dusk when we entered the
+harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing
+its beauty until the following morning, when we
+ascended a height behind the town, called the Mont
+du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by carriage,
+the Emperor having ordered a road to be
+made up to the fort which crowns the heights, on the
+occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in 1858, of her
+Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were
+immediately set to work, and, in a few days, an
+easy carriage-road was finished, up which the Emperor
+drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace.
+The view from the fort is lovely, commanding the
+whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin,
+from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to
+Barfleur. The water of the harbour, owing to its
+great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we
+quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in
+likening to that of the Bay of Naples. Across its
+entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of
+the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet
+of our yacht squadron, which the day before had
+<pb n="002"/><anchor id="Pg002"/>
+run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We
+took a boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded
+at each end by a fort, with another in the
+centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy
+weather the sea washes over the breakwater, and
+sometimes for days prevents all communication
+between the forts, and the supplies consequently are
+stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells
+of the Venus' ear, which inhabits the rocks of the
+breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the fish-market
+exposed for sale, and, on expressing some
+curiosity as to how they were eaten, the landlord
+had a dish prepared for us. These fish resemble
+the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require
+a great deal of beating with a wooden mallet to
+make them tender enough to eat. They are called
+"ormer," or "gofish." The table d'h�te was very
+plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout
+Normandy and Brittany, cider, the customary
+beverage of the country, was always placed upon
+the table. It varies very much in quality in different
+districts; that of Bayeux is most esteemed.</p>
+<p>The next morning we set out for the dockyard.
+To obtain admission, it first requires a letter from
+the English Consul, who lives in a charming spot
+overlooking the sea, at the foot of the Montagne
+du Roule. Furnished with this, we repaired to the
+Pr�fet Maritime, who gave us an order to be presented
+<pb n="003"/><anchor id="Pg003"/>
+at the dockyard gate, where it was countersigned,
+and a guide appointed to show us over the
+establishment. We made the tour round all the
+basins and workshops, and saw the canot imp�rial
+used by the Emperor on the visit of our Queen,&mdash;a
+most elegant boat, beautifully carved with marine
+subjects. The model of a Roman trireme, or galley,
+is in one of the basins, and in the little museum,
+or Salle des Mod�les, are the two flagstones that
+covered the grave of Napoleon, and were deposited
+here by the Prince de Joinville, when he returned
+with the Emperor's remains from St. Helena. The
+dockyard partly stands on a spot called Chantereyne.
+The Empress Matilda, fleeing from Stephen, was
+overtaken by a tempest when making for Cherbourg,
+and vowed, if her life were spared, to build a church.
+The ship was in jeopardy, but the pilot cheered
+her spirits, and, when gaining the port, exclaimed,
+"Chantes Reine! we are safe in harbour." The
+place where she landed has always retained the
+name; and here the Empress, in fulfilment of her
+vow, founded an abbey, which was destroyed in the
+Revolution. The habitations of the nuns is the
+present provisional H�pital de la Marine; a new one,
+containing above a thousand beds, being in course
+of construction, and a modern church, called Eglise
+du V&oelig;u, has been erected in another part of the
+town in place of that of the Empress Matilda.</p>
+<pb n="004"/><anchor id="Pg004"/>
+<p>Henry II. held his court in the castle with his
+empress-mother in great splendour; it had formerly
+been tenanted by Duke William of Normandy before
+his invasion of England, and, within its enclosure,
+he built a church also, in consequence of a
+vow made during a serious illness. There are few
+objects of interest in the town of Cherbourg. The
+women all wear the large Normandy cap. In the
+Place d'Armes is a bronze equestrian statue of the
+Emperor Napoleon I., and on the pedestal is inscribed
+"J'avois r�solu de renouveler � Cherbourg
+les merveilles de l'Egypte."  In the Library is a
+curiously sculptured chimney-piece of the fifteenth
+century, coloured and gilt, removed from a room of
+the abbey. The principal church, La Trinit�, is a
+strange jumble of architecture. There is some beautiful
+tracery in the windows, and a fine boss (clef pendante)
+in the south porch, now restored. On a board
+in the church is an inscription, setting forth it was
+built in consequence of a "v&oelig;u solennel des habitans
+de Cherbourg en 1450 de la d�livrance de la domination
+�trang�re"&mdash;that is, from the English, whose defeat
+the same year at Formigny, by the Constable de
+Richemont, expelled them for ever from Normandy.</p>
+<p>There is much to see in the environs of Cherbourg,
+which makes it a good central point for
+excursions. We drove by the fort of Octeville,
+where a magnificent panoramic view is obtained,
+<pb n="005"/><anchor id="Pg005"/>
+equalling in extent that from the Mont du Roule.
+A fisherman, who was standing by, told us the
+names of the numerous forts that bristle in every
+direction, and related to us the legend of the monk
+of Saire, who, having received the rent due to his
+father for some land, appropriated the money to his
+own use, and, on the tenant declaring he had paid
+the sum, adjured the evil one to carry him off, if he
+had ever received the money. The words were no
+sooner uttered than there came a flash of lightning,
+and the monk vanished: but he still appears in the
+roads of Cherbourg floating on the sea; when he sees
+a sailor, he cries "Save me, save me! I am about
+to sink!" but the hapless being who approaches to
+assist him is immediately dragged into the water, a
+peal of infernal laughter is heard, and the luckless
+mariner disappears for ever. We asked our guide if
+he believed in the phantom monk, but he was silent.</p>
+   <pgIf output="txt">
+   <then>
+   <p>[Illustration: 1. Querqueville Church.]</p>
+   </then>
+   <else>
+   <p>
+   <figure rend="w50" url="images/image01.jpg">
+   <head>1. Querqueville Church.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+   </figure>
+   </p>
+   </else>
+   </pgIf>
+<p>From Octeville we proceeded to Querqueville,
+where, in the same churchyard as the parochial
+church, stands a little church, named after St. Germain,
+the first apostle of the Cotentin, who, in the
+fifth century, landed from England on the coast of
+La Hogue, and preached Christianity in this district
+and the valley traversed by the river Saire, which
+falls into the sea near St. Vaast-la-Hogue. This
+tiny church, for it measures only 34 feet by 24, and
+is 11 feet high, is by some supposed to have been a
+<pb n="006"/><anchor id="Pg006"/>
+temple of the Gauls converted into a Christian place
+of worship; the nave and tower having been added to
+the old temple, which consists of a triple apse forming
+a regular trefoil, each of
+which has a domed top.
+We drove on to Nacqueville,
+the ch�teau of Comte
+Hippolyte de Tocqueville.
+The park is prettily laid
+out, a stream of water runs
+in front of the house, and
+a row of blue hydrangeas
+blazed forth in great beauty, with the relief of a
+background of dark firs. Time prevented us from
+pursuing our excursion further west, to see the
+famed cliffs of Jobourg.</p>
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 2. Plan of Querqueville Church.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image02.jpg">
+    <head>2. Plan of <lb />Querqueville Church.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<pb n="007"/><anchor id="Pg007"/>
+
+<p>To the east of Cherbourg a high road leads to
+Barfleur and the lighthouse of Gatteville, between
+which and the Isle of Wight is the narrowest point
+of the English Channel, passing by Saint-Pierre-Eglise,
+near which is the ch�teau of the late Alexis de
+Tocqueville, author of 'Democracy in America;' but
+we did not get further on the road than Tourlaville,
+the ancient ch�teau of the Ravalet family, upon
+whom tradition has heaped every crime imaginable.
+One seigneur entered the church with his hounds
+and stabbed the priest at the altar, because he refused
+to administer to him the consecrated element; another
+hanged some of his vassals, because they did
+not grind their corn at the seignorial mill, for
+"haute or basse justice" was then among the nobles'
+rights. Marguerite, a daughter of this ancient house,
+expiated, with her brother, their offences upon the
+scaffold at Paris. Every effort was made to spare
+their lives; but the King, or rather Queen Margot,
+was inexorable. The ch�teau of Tourlaville is beautifully
+situated; it is in the style of the Renaissance,
+with an angular tower, which <corr sic="recals">recalls</corr> that of Heidelberg
+Castle. The ground-floor consists of two large
+unfurnished rooms, and a staircase, with iron railing,
+leads to the story above. In one room hangs the
+portrait of a lady ch�teleine, in the costume of the
+period of Louis XIII., with the ch�teau of Tourlaville
+in the distance. On her left are eight Cupids
+<pb n="008"/><anchor id="Pg008"/>
+with bandages over their eyes, one in advance of the
+others is not blinded. From the lady's mouth is
+a label, with the inscription "Un (seul) me suffit."
+This is said to be the portrait of the Lady Marguerite,
+but the costume is of a later date. In one
+of the rooms is a chimney-piece covered with a
+variety of amatory devices and mottoes:&mdash;a Cupid
+blinded, holding a lighted torch, motto "Ce qui me
+donne la vie me cause la mort." Again, another
+Cupid with eyes bandaged, pouring water out of a
+vase to cool a flaming heart he holds in his hand,
+motto "Sa froideur me glace les veines et son ardeur
+br�le mon c&oelig;ur." Six winged hearts flying at the
+approach of Cupid, but which are reached by his
+darts, "M�me en fuyant l'on est pris." Further is
+a sentiment in verse:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Plusieurs sont atteints de ce feu,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Mais il ne s'en gu�rit que fort peu.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Again,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p rend="display"><q>Ces deux n'en font qu'un.</q></p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 3. Ch�teau of Tourlaville.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image03.jpg">
+    <head>3. Ch�teau of Tourlaville.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+
+<p>A river in the foreground, in the distance a setting
+sun, motto "Ainsi puissai-je mourir." This assemblage
+of devices and mottoes is not applicable to
+any particular individual, but may be supposed to
+be merely an expression of the taste of the time.
+They are of the seventeenth century, when the
+Ravalet had been succeeded by the Franquetot
+family, who have since taken the name of Coigny.
+<pb n="009"/><anchor id="Pg009"/>
+<pb n="010"/><anchor id="Pg010"/>
+<pb n="011"/><anchor id="Pg011"/>
+Their arms, with several others, are in the little
+boudoir in one of the towers, called the Blue Chamber.
+Its walls are distempered blue, and the coverlet
+and hangings of the bed, with all the decorations of
+the room, are of the same colour. Having admired
+the lovely view from the "Tour des quatre vents,"
+we descended to the kitchen of the farmer who rents
+the house, which now belongs to the Tocqueville
+family. His wife was busily employed in making
+"cr�pes," a favourite kind of cake in Normandy
+and Brittany. It is made generally of the flour
+of the sarrasin or buckwheat, mixed with milk or
+water, and spread into a kind of pancake, which is
+fried on an iron pan, resembling the Scotch griddle-cakes.
+Another variety, called "galette," is made
+of the same ingredients, but differs from the cr�pe
+in its being made three or four times the thickness,
+and is therefore not so light. Though generally
+made of buckwheat, wheat or oat-flour is sometimes
+used; and in the towns, sugar and cinnamon and
+vanilla are added, and the simple character of the
+cr�pe entirely changed under the hands of the confectioner.
+The little village of Tourlaville was
+famous for its glassworks, until supplanted by those
+of Gobain.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to Cherbourg we visited the lace
+school of the S&oelig;urs de la Providence, where about
+two hundred girls are employed in making black
+<pb n="012"/><anchor id="Pg012"/>
+lace like that of Bayeux, which has now completely
+superseded the Chantilly; the manner of making
+both laces is similar. The old Chantilly has completely
+died out, and the modern manufacture extends
+the whole length of Normandy from Cherbourg
+to Bayeux. How the children can keep the
+bobbins from entangling is a marvel; there were
+as many as five hundred on one pillow. The lace-makers
+were chiefly employed in flounces, shawls,
+and other large works. These are all made in separate
+pieces, and united by the stitch called fine
+joining or "raboutissage." A half-shawl or "pointe"
+was divided into thirty segments. We passed the
+evening at the Etablissement, and next morning left
+Cherbourg.</p>
+
+<p>The railway traverses the picturesque and rocky
+valley of Quincampoix to Martinvast, whose little
+Romanesque church stands close to the station, and
+at a short distance is the ch�teau of Martinvast,
+where its late proprietor, M. du Moncel, established
+a model farm. A monument has been erected to
+his memory in the church by the commune of
+Martinvast.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 4. Castle of Bricquebec.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image04.jpg">
+    <head>4. Castle of Bricquebec.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+
+<p>At Sottevast we took the omnibus for Bricquebec,
+which lies nearly five miles from the station. Its
+ruined castle, dating from the end of the fourteenth
+century, with its lofty octagonal donjon, nearly a
+hundred feet high, standing on a high "motte" or
+<pb n="013"/><anchor id="Pg013"/>
+artificial mound, has a most imposing appearance.
+Bricquebec, the most considerable demesne of the
+Cotentins, was taken by King Henry V. from the
+Sire d'Estouteville, who had so gallantly defended
+Mont St. Michel against him. Henry gave Bricquebec
+to William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, the ill-fated
+favourite of Queen Margaret of Anjou, and
+he, on being taken prisoner by the French, sold it,
+<pb n="014"/><anchor id="Pg014"/>
+to raise the money for his ransom, to Sir Bertie
+Entwistle, who fought at Agincourt, and who held
+it till the battle of Formigny expelled the English
+from Normandy, and Sir Bertie fell at St. Albans in
+the Lancastrian cause. The inn, "H�tel du Vieux
+Ch�teau," is within the enclosure of the ruins&mdash;a
+most dilapidated old place; our dirty ill-furnished
+room next to a hayloft, the horses passing through
+the house to the stable, and every kind of litter and
+rubbish accumulated under the windows. Yet in
+the room we occupied had once slept our gracious
+Sovereign Queen Victoria. On a placard is inscribed,
+"Chambre de la famille royale d'Angleterre,
+18 Ao�t 1857;" and below stairs is another, setting
+forth, "S. M. la Reine d'Angleterre, le Prince
+Albert, les Princesses Royale et Alice, le Prince
+Alfred, sont descendus � l'h�tel du Vieux Ch�teau le
+10 Ao�t 1857." About a mile from Bricquebec is
+a Trappist convent; but we were not allowed admission
+beyond the parlour, where is sold a quantity of
+cutlery, not made&mdash;as we were given to understand
+when offered for sale&mdash;by the monks.</p>
+
+<p>Regaining the railroad, we went on to Valognes,
+which has been styled the St. Germain of Normandy;
+a dull town, with worn-out houses, occupied
+by worn-out aristocratic families. The grass grows
+in the streets.</p>
+
+<p>Here we left the rail and proceeded to Saint
+<pb n="015"/><anchor id="Pg015"/>
+Sauveur-le-Vicomte. On entering the town, the
+castle is on the right of the road, the Abbey church
+on the left. The large demesne of Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte
+passed by marriage into the Harcourt
+family, and belonged, in the time of Edward III.,
+to Geoffrey d'Harcourt, whose fortress was one of
+the most formidable in Normandy. Banished from
+France, he went over to England and persuaded
+Edward III. to make a descent upon Normandy
+instead of Gascony, assuring him he would find rich
+towns and fair castles without any means of defence,
+and that his people would gain wealth enough to
+suffice them for twenty years to come. The King
+landed at La Hogue, or Saint Vaast-la-Hogue, as it
+is now called, where he knighted the Prince of Wales
+and made Warwick and Harcourt marshals of his
+army. They advanced in three divisions&mdash;the King
+and the Prince in the centre, the two marshals on
+the right and left&mdash;ravaging all before them, and
+not stopping in their victorious course till the great
+victory at Crecy. Harcourt subsequently met a
+traitor's fate. A force was sent against him, his army
+was routed, and, preferring death to being taken, he
+fought most valiantly until he was struck to the
+ground by French lances, when some men-at-arms
+dispatched him with their swords. He had sold the
+reversion of his castle to King Edward III., to whom
+it was confirmed by the treaty of Bretigny. Edward
+<pb n="016"/><anchor id="Pg016"/>
+bestowed the barony upon that pride of English
+chivalry, Sir John Chandos, in recompense for his
+great services in the wars. The square donjon and
+inner gate were built by Chandos. The castle is
+well preserved, and is now used as a hospice for
+orphans and aged women. The rooms are kept
+beautifully clean, and on a tablet in one of the corridors
+is written up "Dortoirs restaur�s par la munificence
+de M. le Comte Georges d'Harcourt en
+m�moire de ses illustres ayeux, anciens Seigneurs de
+ce ch�teau, en 1838."</p>
+
+<p>The Benedictine convent also belonged to the
+Harcourts until the revolt of Geoffrey. It is now the
+property of the S&oelig;urs de la Mis�ricorde, who have
+rebuilt the fine Abbey church according to its former
+model. Originally built in the eleventh century, it
+was partly burnt in the fourteenth, and reconstructed
+in the fifteenth. The columns and arches of the
+nave are of the first period; the form of the church
+is a Latin cross, having an apse ornamented with a
+double row of lancet windows, richly sculptured.
+The sculptures are all executed by an untaught
+workman of the place, who died before he had completed
+the pulpit. To collect the funds necessary for
+the undertaking, the foundress travelled throughout
+Europe. Her tomb is in the church. "Julie
+Fran�oise Catherine Postel, n�e � Barfleur, 1756.
+S&oelig;ur Marie Madelaine, Fondatrice et premi�re Superieure
+<pb n="017"/><anchor id="Pg017"/>
+G�n�rale de l'Institut des Ecoles Chr�tiennes
+de la Mis�ricorde, morte en odeur de Saintet�
+16 Juillet 1846, � l'Abbaye de
+St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte." The
+badge of the sisterhood is a
+cross inscribed with their
+motto "L'ob�issance jusqu'�
+la mort." Some of the party
+made an attempt at fishing
+in the little river Douve, but
+without success, though rewarded
+for their walk by a
+pretty view of the apse of the Abbey church, with
+its delicately-sculptured lancet windows, from the
+opposite side of the river.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 5. L'OB�ISSANCE JUSQU'� LA MORT.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image05.jpg">
+    <head>5. L'OB�ISSANCE <lb />JUSQU'� LA MORT.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+
+<p>We hired a private carriage (<hi rend="italic">voiture � volont�</hi>) to
+P�riers. After passing over a hilly road we crossed
+a marsh which extends from Carentan to the sea,
+and reached a town called La Haye-du-Puits&mdash;a
+singular name derived from the custom in the middle
+ages of surrounding the "motte" or enclosure upon
+which the donjon was built, with a wooden palisade,
+or sometimes with a thick hedge formed of thorns
+and branches of trees interlaced: hence La Haye-du-Puits,
+La Haye-Pesnel, and others. Here is a Norman
+church restored: all the capitals of the columns
+are of the same pattern.</p>
+
+<p>The Abbey church at Lessay, where next we
+<pb n="018"/><anchor id="Pg018"/>
+stopped, is of the twelfth century, and considered,
+with Coutances and P�riers, to be the finest examples
+of Romanesque in the Cotentin. The arches are
+round, and all the architecture of the church, which
+has been restored, is of the same period. The Abbey
+of Lessay had transmarine jurisdiction and the right
+of presentation to the Priory of Boxgrove and other
+endowments in the diocese of Chichester. The
+Abbey house, now inhabited, is a fine modernised
+habitation. At Lessay we saw the manner of washing
+linen practised in many places throughout Normandy
+and Brittany. Being first roughly washed in the
+river, the clothes are placed in layers in a large cask,
+with a bunghole at the bottom, alternately with
+wood-ashes, and on the top is laid a piece of
+coarse sacking. Boiling water is poured over the
+top, which, as it passes through the linen, absorbs
+the soda of the ashes, escaping at the bottom and
+carrying away with it all impurities. This process
+is repeated several times till the clothes are perfectly
+white.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout this part of the country the mistletoe
+hangs as the sign of a cabaret; and if cider is sold,
+some apples are fastened to the bush. On the road
+to P�riers we crossed a "lande" or common, where
+we met numerous carts carrying sea sand, here used
+to mix with the heavy soil as manure.</p>
+
+<p>At P�riers we slept at the little inn "La Croix
+<pb n="019"/><anchor id="Pg019"/>
+Blanche," kept by Madame Casimir, the widow
+of a Polish officer, well known for her eccentricity
+and good cuisine. The entrance to the apartments
+in the inns is generally through the kitchen; in many
+the box bedstead (<hi rend="italic">lit clos</hi>) stands in the corner near
+the fire, Breton fashion. On a barber's shop we saw
+painted up "I�i l'on rajeunit." The church has a
+tall spire, and is one of the finest religious edifices in
+this part of Normandy&mdash;painted windows, the capitals
+of the columns of varied foliage, and fine groined
+clustered arches.</p>
+
+<p>We had a most perilous drive to Coutances, the
+coachman, "en ribote," drove us at a fearful pace,
+and we were thankful when we arrived in safety.
+The Norman cathedral is beautiful&mdash;so simple, so
+pure, and elegant; its tall towers terminating in spires;
+and the chapels being separated by open mullioned
+arches, great lightness is given to the interior. The
+Bishop of Coutances was officiating at the consecration
+of some stones for a new pavement; each flag
+was rubbed over and anointed with oil.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 6. Coutances Cathedral.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image06.jpg">
+    <head>6. Coutances Cathedral.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+
+<p>The church of St. Pierre has a handsome square
+tower, pierced gallery, and apse with a double row
+of columns. In the church of St. Nicholas we particularly
+noticed the fine bosses of the groined arches
+in the chancel. The fonts hereabouts have the serpent
+with the apple, and the cross carved upon the
+<pb n="020"/><anchor id="Pg020"/>
+cover. The church was filled with pots of flowers
+they were employed in removing, for the day before
+had been the F�te of St. Fiacre, the patron of gardeners.
+St. Fiacre, or Fiaker, was an Irish monk of
+the seventh century, who, according to tradition,
+<pb n="021"/><anchor id="Pg021"/>
+obtained from the Bishop of Meaux a grant of as
+much ground out of the forest as he could dig a
+trench round in one day's labour, for the purpose
+of making a garden and cultivating vegetables for
+travellers. Long time after, the peasants would
+show the ditch ten times longer than was expected,
+and relate how, when the Irishman took his stick to
+trace a line upon the soil, the earth dug itself under
+the point of the stick, while the forest trees fell right
+and left to save him the trouble of cutting them
+down. Outside the town are the remains of an aqueduct,
+with ivy-covered arches, said to be the work
+of the middle ages. It is a good point of view for
+sketching the cathedral, and the public gardens also
+command a fine prospect.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to Granville is by a sharp descent.
+The town is built at the foot of a rocky promontory,
+the streets rising in terraces cut in the rock, on the
+top of which are the citadel and the church on the
+culminating point. It has been styled a Gibraltar
+in miniature. A fort was built here by Lord Scales,
+who commanded the English forces in the Cotentin
+in the time of Henry VI., and it was taken by
+surprise by Estouteville, the hero of Saint Michel.
+The church is cruciform in plan, the arms of the
+cross being equal. The axis of the nave is inclined
+to the left, as we afterwards observed that of the
+<corr sic="Creisker">Creizker</corr> at St. Pol de L�on. It has been lately
+<pb n="022"/><anchor id="Pg022"/>
+restored, and the painted windows are offerings of
+the different families of the town. The view from
+the top of the "Roc" is very extensive, including
+the Chausey islands and Jersey. A steamer runs
+twice a week to St. Helier. A deep cutting in the
+rocks opens on the beach, where the bathing-machines
+are stationed&mdash;curious little canvas huts
+carried upon poles, like sedan chairs. The tide here
+rises 45 feet. It was to Granville the Vendean
+army, commanded by La Rochejacquelin, appointed
+generalissimo at twenty-two, marched after their fatal
+step of crossing the Loire, expecting to make a junction
+with the English; but Granville was vigorously
+defended, contrary winds retarded the arrival of the
+English fleet, and the retreat from the coast, where
+it might have been supported by the English, was
+the ruin of the Royalist army. Of the 80,000 who
+crossed the Loire sixty days before, only 8000
+remained to make their last heroic resistance at
+Savenay, which ended the great Vendean war. A
+few months after, the hero of this noble army, the
+chivalrous Henri de la Rochejacquelin, fell from the
+bullet of a soldier whose life he had spared<note place="foot">"Si
+je recule, tuez-moi; si j'avance, suivez-moi; si je meurs,
+vengez-moi," was his celebrated address to the peasant army.</note>:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display"><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">Lorsqu'en des jours trop malheureux</q></l>
+<l>P�lissait l'astre de la France;</l>
+<l>Quand les c&oelig;urs les plus valeureux</l>
+<l>Semblaient perdre toute esp�rance,</l></lg>
+<pb n="023"/><anchor id="Pg023"/>
+<lg><l>L'antique honneur, la sainte foi,</l>
+<l>Brill�rent dans cette contr�e;</l>
+<l>Mourir pour son Dieu, pour son roi,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Fut le serment de la Vend�e.</q></l>
+</lg></lg>
+
+<p>The costume of the Granville women is singular.
+They wear long black cloaks or mantles, edged with
+a frill of the same material, and on their heads a
+kind of bandeau or under-cap, turned up at the ears,
+surmounted by a white handkerchief, folded square
+and placed horizontally upon the head, like the
+plinth of a Grecian capital.</p>
+
+<p>We drove to St. Pair, a small watering-place about
+two miles from Granville, nicely situated in a little
+sandy bay. In the middle of the church is the
+monumental tomb of St. Pair and another saint (St.
+Gault); their effigies, with mitre and crozier, side
+by side.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we had a beautiful drive to Avranches.
+A winding road leads up to the town, which is
+situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a view
+of Brittany on one side and of Normandy on the
+other&mdash;a broad expanse of land and sea, the former
+extending over the valley of the S�e, with its network
+of small streams interlacing each other; Mont
+St. Michel appears in the distance. The finest view
+is from the Botanic gardens. The cathedral of
+Avranches fell at the end of the last century, but a
+model of it is preserved in the museum. One stone
+<pb n="024"/><anchor id="Pg024"/>
+remains, carefully surrounded by massive chains,
+with an inscription recording that it was the spot
+where Henry II. received absolution for the murder
+of Thomas � Becket:&mdash;"Sur cette pierre, i�i � la
+porte de la cath�drale d'Avranches, apr�s le meurtre
+de Thomas Becket, Arch�v�que de Cantorb�ry,
+Henri II., roi d'Angleterre, duc de Normandie,
+re�ut � genoux, des l�gats du pape, l'absolution apostolique,
+le dimanche xxii Mai, 1172." The cemetery
+is at the foot of the hill; the tombs are of granite,
+with the letters in relief: among them we read many
+well-known English names.</p>
+
+<p>At Pontorson we could find no remains of the
+castle of Du Guesclin, which was nearly surprised by
+the English under a captain named Felton, during
+the absence of Du Guesclin, with the connivance of
+the "chambri�res" of the Lady Typhaine, his wife.
+Already their scaling-ladders were against the wall,
+when Juliana, Du Guesclin's sister, agitated by a
+troublous dream, awoke suddenly, seized a sword,
+rushed to the window, and upset three English who
+were coming up the ladder, and they were killed by
+the fall. The enemy retired. Next morning Du
+Guesclin, on his return to Pontorson, met Felton
+and his party, attacked them, and took them prisoners.
+When Typhaine saw Felton, she tauntingly
+exclaimed, "Comment, brave Felton, vous voil�
+encore! C'est trop pour un homme de c&oelig;ur comme
+<pb n="025"/><anchor id="Pg025"/>
+vous d'�tre battu, dans une intervalle de douze heures,
+une fois par la s&oelig;ur, une autre par le fr�re." Du
+Guesclin caused the faithless "chambri�res" to be
+sewed up in sacks and flung into the river.</p>
+
+<p>John IV. Duke of <corr sic="Britanny">Brittany</corr> conferred upon Du
+Guesclin the government of Pontorson, of which
+territory he was personally lord, by right of his
+mother. It was here he often resided, and here he
+celebrated being made Constable of France by King
+Charles V., and fraternised with Olivier de Clisson,
+agreeing to afford each other mutual help&mdash;"contre
+tous ceux qui peuvent vivre et mourir." The granite
+church was founded by Duke Robert, father of the
+Conqueror.</p>
+
+<p>Pontorson is the most convenient place for visiting
+Mont St. Michel. Our drive thither was by the
+banks of the river Cou�snon, along a sandy road, bordered
+on each side by hedges of tamarisks, which
+leads to the "Gr�ve," or sands, which have to be
+crossed to reach the Mount, a distance of rather
+more than a mile. We met numbers of bare-legged
+half-clad women and children, bringing in the produce
+of their fishing, shrimps and cockles tied up in
+nets, and peasants with carts carrying in sea sand for
+dressing the land. The appearance of Mont St.
+Michel is very imposing, a cone of granite encircled
+by the sea. Above rises the fortress, surmounted by
+the church, a height of 400 feet from the top to the
+<pb n="026"/><anchor id="Pg026"/>
+water. Below, at the foot of the Mount, picturesquely
+situated on an insulated rock, is the little chapel of
+St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, the founder of St.
+Michel. The Mount has been the residence of many
+of our English princes. Matilda, queen of the Conqueror,
+visited St. Michel.  It was here her son
+Henry I., then only Count of the Cotentin, was
+blockaded by his brothers William and Robert, and
+obliged to surrender. Here Henry II. held his
+court, and, when Henry V. overran Normandy, St.
+Michel was the only fortress that held out against
+him, under its gallant defender Louis d'Estouteville
+of Bricquebec. Two cannons, now at the entrance
+of the castle, are said to have been taken from
+the English at the siege. Normandy was always the
+scene of the quarrels between the English Norman
+princes, of the disputes between the sons of the
+Conqueror, between Stephen of Blois and Henry of
+Anjou, and again of those between Henry II. and
+his sons, and of Richard and his brother John, to
+the latter of whom the Normans were attached.</p>
+
+<p>Seven French kings have made pilgrimages to St.
+Michel; and here Louis XI. instituted the order
+of knighthood, called in honour of the archangel
+St. Michael, but afterwards styled the order of the
+Coquille, from the cockleshells that formed the collar
+of the knights, and the golden cockle-shells that bordered
+their mantles. The motto of the order was
+<pb n="027"/><anchor id="Pg027"/>
+the old motto of the Mount, "Immensi tremor
+Oceani" (the trembling of the immeasurable ocean),
+being an allusion to the popular belief that when
+the English approached St. Michel, the guardian
+archangel of the Mount raised a tempest to drive
+the enemy's vessels upon the rocks. This belief may
+be traced back to the time when the island was
+occupied by the Druid priestesses, who were supposed
+to have the power of raising storms and stilling
+them by their magic arrows of gold.</p>
+
+<p>We ascended by the flight of steps to the "Merveille,"
+as the convent building is called, and well it
+deserves its name, from its elegance, its boldness, and
+its position, with a wall of above one hundred feet
+high, and of immense length, rising from the rock
+and supported by fifteen buttresses, and divided into
+three stories. In every point of view it is one of the
+most remarkable edifices of the thirteenth century.
+The salle des chevaliers, where the chapters of the
+knights were held, is a fine hall, with three rows
+of columns, and above it are the beautiful Gothic
+cloisters. The "pr�au" or court is surrounded by a
+double row of pointed arches, interlacing each other,
+and filled in with flowered spandrils and cornices,
+carved with the greatest delicacy and endless variety.
+The church which crowns the building is supported
+by a circle of enormous columns in the crypt beneath,
+called the Souterrain des Gros Piliers: it has been
+<pb n="028"/><anchor id="Pg028"/>
+entirely restored, and the carvings are the work of
+the prisoners who were confined here. From one
+of the doors we went out to the platform or terrace
+called Beauregard, from the beauty of its prospect,
+or sometimes Sault Gautier, from a prisoner of that
+name, who three times threw himself off the platform
+to commit suicide. The view from hence is most
+extensive, the whole circuit of the bay extending to
+the west as far as Cancale. In 1203 St. Michel
+became a royal demesne, and the buildings were
+entirely reconstructed by the Abbot Jourdan, assisted
+by Philip Augustus; and the works were continued
+by his successors to 1260.</p>
+
+<p>Beneath and adjacent to the Mount, is the little
+island of La Tombeleine or tombeau d'-Hel�ne, so
+called from a young lady of that name, who unable
+to accompany her lover knight when he left for
+England with the Conqueror, as soon as the vessel
+which carried him away disappeared from her sight,
+laid down on the shore and died. Every year, on
+the anniversary of her death, the fishermen will tell
+you they see a dove seated upon the Tombeleine
+rock, and remain there till morning's dawn.</p>
+
+<p>The guide pointed out to us the window of St.
+Michel, from which Barb�s tried to escape by means
+of a cord made of his sheets cut into strips and tied
+together; but the line was too short, and he fell
+upon the rock and was taken up much hurt. The
+<pb n="029"/><anchor id="Pg029"/>
+provisions for the fortress are brought in up an
+inclined plane, and raised by means of a tread-wheel,
+formerly worked by the prisoners. We were conducted
+to the spot where stood, with bars only three
+inches apart, the iron cage in which so many celebrities
+were immured. Dubourg, the Dutch journalist,
+who wrote against Louis XIV., died within its
+bars, devoured, it is said, by the rats. In 1777, the
+Comte d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.) desired it
+should be destroyed, but his wishes were disregarded.
+His cousin, the Duc de Chartres (afterwards Louis
+Philippe), with his brother and sister, and Madame
+de Genlis, subsequently visited the Mount. All exclaimed
+against the iron cage, and when they heard
+that the Comte d'Artois had ordered its destruction,
+they sent for hatchets, and the Duc de Chartres
+gave the first blow towards its demolition; but the
+fine old fortress is no longer desecrated as a prison.
+The Emperor has restored it to its original position,
+and it is now placed under the control of the Bishop
+of Coutances, and is used as an asylum for orphans
+under the care of a few Sisters.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we crossed the boundary between
+Normandy and Brittany, the river Cou�snon, which
+has often changed its course, once, it is said, running
+beyond St. Michel&mdash;hence the popular saying&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Le Cou�snon par sa folie</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">A mis le Mont en Normandie.</q></l></lg>
+
+<pb n="030"/><anchor id="Pg030"/>
+<p>We had a beautiful drive to Dol or Dol-de-Bretagne,
+as it is styled, to distinguish it from the fortress of the
+same name in the Jura, upon the taking of which
+Madame de Sevign� writes in her letters with so much
+enthusiasm. We were now fairly in Brittany, which
+though geographically part of France still remains
+very distinct, owing to the Celtic origin of its inhabitants.
+Brittany consists of five departments;
+but it is in Lower Brittany alone, comprised in the
+departments of Finist�re, Morbihan, and the C�tes-du-Nord,
+that the true Celtic race, its language,
+names, features, costumes, and superstitions are to
+be found.</p>
+
+<p>This is the true Brittany, the Bretagne Bretonnante
+of Froissart, who calls the eastern part of the
+province, La Bretagne Douce, because the French
+language is spoken there. Dol was the great
+bulwark of Brittany against Normandy; the wall
+and moat surrounding the town, with some of the
+towers, still remain. Many of the houses are built,
+as the French term it, "en colombage" that is,
+with the upper story projecting some fifteen feet
+over the ground-floor, forming a gallery or porch
+supported by oak posts or columns with sculptured
+capitals of the thirteenth century. The inn we occupied
+had one of these porches: Madame Barbot,
+our landlady, and her maid, were both dressed in
+Breton costume, with lace-trimmed embroidered
+<pb n="031"/><anchor id="Pg031"/>
+caps and aprons of fine muslin, clear-starched and
+ironed with a perfection which the most accomplished
+"blanchisseuse du fin" of Paris would find
+it difficult to surpass. The people here have the
+Breton physiognomy, sharp black eyes, short roundi
+faces and brown freckled complexions, a contrast to
+the blue eyes, long oval faces,
+and bright tints of their Norman
+neighbours.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 7. Pilaster and Cornice from the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image07.jpg">
+    <head>7. Pilaster and Cornice from the <lb />Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, <lb />Dol.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The principal building at
+Dol is the Cathedral, built
+of grey granite, in the style
+of many of our English
+churches. On the south is
+the "porte episcopale," a
+large projecting porch with
+mullioned sides, and, near it,
+a smaller porch with a central
+column sem�e of hearts, the
+"armes parlantes" of Bishop
+C&oelig;uret who built it. The
+clustered columns of the nave,
+consist of a central pillar surrounded
+by four others running
+up to the roof, so slender and delicate that
+they are united to the centre by small bars of iron.
+Over the high altar is an enormous wooden crozier,
+carved and gilt, from which the Host is suspended.
+<pb n="032"/><anchor id="Pg032"/>
+A beautiful Renaissance tomb on the north side of
+the cathedral was raised in 1507 to the memory of
+Bishop James,
+who died three
+years before.
+The sculpture is
+much mutilated,
+but the arabesques
+are
+most delicately
+and elegantly
+chiselled. It is
+supposed to be
+the work of Jean
+Just of Tours, sculptor of the magnificent tomb of
+Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, erected at St.
+Denis by order of Francis I.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w50" url="images/image08.jpg">
+    <head>8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, <lb />Cathedral, Dol.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The chapel of St. Samson, patron saint of the
+cathedral, has been restored. Mad people were
+brought here for cure, and placed in a recess which
+still remains; the opening was covered over by an
+iron grating. Dol was formerly the ecclesiastical
+metropolis of Brittany; the see was founded by
+Samson, one of those British monks, who, with a
+whole population of men and women, emigrated
+from England to escape the Saxon slavery. They
+crossed the Channel in barks made of skins sewn
+together, singing, as they went, the Lamentations of
+<pb n="033"/><anchor id="Pg033"/>
+the Psalmist. This emigration lasted more than a
+century (from 450 to 550), and poured a Christian
+population into a Celtic country where paganism
+was longest preserved. St. Samson and his six
+suffragans&mdash;all monks, missionaries, and bishops, like
+himself&mdash;were called the "Seven Saints of Brittany;"
+St. Samson was what was termed an "ev�que portatif,"
+meaning a bishop without a diocese, until he
+founded that of Dol. Telio, also a British monk,
+with the assistance of St. Samson, planted near Dol
+an orchard three miles in length, and to him is
+attributed the first introduction of the apple-tree
+into Brittany. Wherever the monks went, they cultivated
+the soil; all had in their mouths the words of
+the Apostle, "If any would not work, neither should
+he eat." The people admired the industry of the
+new comers, and, from admiration they passed to
+imitation; the peasants joined the monks in tilling
+the ground, and even the brigands became agriculturists.
+"The Cross and the plough, labour and
+prayer," was the motto of these early missionaries.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">S�r que le Ciel maudit l'arbre st�rile,</q></l>
+<l>Le sage passe en op�rant le bien:</l>
+<l>Vivre et mourir � l'univers utile,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">C'est la devise et l'esprit du chr�tien.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl>
+  <title rend="italic">Chants de Pi�t�</title>, 
+  <author rend="smallcaps">Malo de Garaby</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>The monks of Dol were great bee-farmers, as we
+learn from an anecdote told by Count Montalembert
+<pb n="034"/><anchor id="Pg034"/>
+in his 'Moines de l'Occident.' One day when St. Samson
+of Dol and St. Germain, Bishop of Paris,
+were conversing on the respective merits of their
+monasteries, St. Samson said that his monks were
+such good and careful preservers of their bees that,
+besides the honey which they yielded in abundance,
+they furnished more wax than was used in the
+churches during the year, but that, their climate
+not being fit for the growth of vines, they had great
+scarcity of wine. Upon hearing this, St. Germain
+replied, "We, on the contrary, produce more wine
+than we can consume, but we have to buy wax; so,
+if you will furnish us with wax, we will give you a
+tenth of our wine." Samson accepted the offer, and
+the mutual arrangement was continued during the
+lives of the two saints.</p>
+
+<p>The marshy country round Dol has been formerly
+inundated by the sea; it is now reclaimed and protected
+by a dyke twenty-two miles long, extending
+from Pontorson to Chateauneuf. The whole tract
+is full of buried wood, a submerged forest, which
+the people dig up, and use for furniture. It is black,
+like the Irish bog-oak. They call it "cou�ron."
+In the midst of this plain rises a mamelon or insulated
+granite rock, resembling in form Mont St.
+Michel, called the Mont Dol. On the top is the
+little chapel of Notre Dame de l'Esp�rance, upon
+which was formerly a telegraph, and near it is a
+<pb n="035"/><anchor id="Pg035"/>
+column surmounted by a colossal statue of Our
+Lady. Mont Dol was a consecrated place of the
+Druids. The guides showed us a spring which
+never dries, and also a rock upon which they point
+out the print of the foot of the demon, left by him
+when wrestling with St. Michael. We met the cur�,
+who gave us a medal of the church, and told us the
+principal points in the view before us, extending
+over the whole Bay of Cancale.</p>
+<pb n="036"/><anchor id="Pg036"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 9. Menhir, near Dol.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image09.jpg">
+    <head>9. Menhir, near Dol.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>On our way back to Dol, we walked to a cornfield,
+in the midst of it stands a menhir<note place="foot">
+The largest menhir in Finist�re is on a lande near the
+farm of Kergloas, or "the plain of mourning;" this, with the
+menhir of Dol, have probably been erected as funeral monuments,
+or point out the scene of some battle slaughter.</note> (they are so
+termed from the Breton <hi rend="italic">m&oelig;n</hi>, stone, and <hi rend="italic">hir</hi>, long),
+called the "Pierre du champ dolant," a shaft of gray
+granite, about thirty feet high, and said to measure
+fifteen more underground. On the top is a cross.
+The first preachers of Christianity, unable to uproot
+the veneration for the menhirs, surmounted them
+with the cross, preserving the worship but changing
+the symbol. In the same manner, they did not
+attempt to destroy the veneration for sacred groves
+and fountains, but transferred to new saints the
+miracles of times past.</p>
+
+<p>We drove through a pretty country to see the
+Ch�teau of Combourg, where Chateaubriand passed
+his early days. It is a fine square castle of the
+fifteenth century, with massive towers at each corner,
+surrounded by trees, and standing proudly over the
+village below. The drawbridge has been replaced by
+a modern "perron" or flight of stone steps, which
+leads to the entrance hall. The salle d'honneur
+looks over a lake. We were taken into his little
+melancholy room which Chateaubriand so well
+describes.</p>
+<pb n="037"/><anchor id="Pg037"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 10. Ch�teau of Combourg.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image10.jpg">
+    <head>10. Ch�teau of Combourg.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p rend="small">"La fen�tre de mon donjon s'ouvrait sur le cour int�rieure;
+le jour, j'avais en perspective les cr�neaux de la courtine oppose�,
+o� v�g�taient des scolopendres et croissait un prunier sauvage.
+Quelques martinets, qui, durant l'�t�, s'enfon�aient en criant
+dans les trous des murs, �taient mes seuls compagnons. La
+nuit je n'apercevais qu'un petit morceau du ciel et quelques
+�toiles. Lorsque la lune brillait et qu'elle s'abaissait � l'occident,
+j'en �tais averti par ses rayons, qui venaient � mon lit au
+travers des carreaux losang�s de la fen�tre. Des chouettes
+voletant d'un tour � l'autre, passant et repassant entre la
+lune et moi, dessinaient sur mes rideaux l'ombre mobile de
+leurs ailes."</p>
+
+<p>The bed on which Chateaubriand died has been
+brought from Paris and placed in the room.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image11.jpg">
+    <head>11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The next morning we left Dol for Cancale, of
+such world-wide celebrity for its oysters. We left
+the railway at La Gouesni�re, five miles and a half
+from Cancale, to which we proceeded by the mail
+<pb n="038"/><anchor id="Pg038"/>
+cart. It requires to travel in Brittany to form any
+notion of the detestable vehicles, whether public or
+"voitures � volont�," in which travellers in this country
+are condemned to ride. Uncleaned, unpainted,
+creaking, jolting machines&mdash;as fully tenanted with
+every kind of insect annoyance, as if one were travelling
+in a hen-house. The horses are good, hardy,
+enduring little animals, which go their thirty to
+<pb n="039"/><anchor id="Pg039"/>
+fifty miles a day without any distress either to
+themselves or the traveller. The Breton drivers are
+gentle and kind, making more use of their voices
+than of their whips in urging on their horses. The
+town of Cancale is situated on the heights, a precipitous
+descent leading to the village below, called
+La Houle, which lines the edge of the shore, and
+is occupied mostly by fishermen. This is the port,
+and here are the pier and the lighthouse, and also
+a comfortable inn to which the people of St. Malo
+resort in large parties, an omnibus running thence
+daily. The panoramic view of the bay of Cancale is
+beautiful and most extensive, one vast crescent of
+sand some ten square leagues in extent, stretching
+from the picturesque rocks of Cancale to Granville,
+its most northern point, and including Mont Dol,
+Mont St. Michel, and Avranches.  The western
+side is lined with huts and windmills, but the water
+is so shallow that no boat can land. Having walked
+round the little hurdled-in oyster parks, numbering,
+we were told, about 600, and made ourselves very
+wet and dirty, though we borrowed sabots to enable
+us to wade through the mud, we returned to the
+inn, and next day reached St. Malo.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image12.jpg">
+    <head>12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+
+<p>St. Malo stands on a small granite island at the
+mouth of the Rance, connected, by a causeway
+called "Le Sillon," with the mainland. The space
+it occupies is so small, that castle, churches, streets,
+<pb n="040"/><anchor id="Pg040"/>
+and towers are all crowded together, and the whole
+is nearly surrounded by a sea wall, which makes the
+town appear as if rising straight out of the ocean.
+Towards the sea, the bay is encircled with groups of
+craggy islets, many surmounted by forts, bristling
+up as the tide recedes, in every direction. Conspicuous
+among these island rocks is that called the
+<pb n="041"/><anchor id="Pg041"/>
+Grand B�, chosen by Chateaubriand for his last
+resting-place, as he wished to be buried near the
+place of his birth. Singularly enough the name of
+the island "B�" signifies a tomb. On his request
+being granted, Chateaubriand wrote to the Mayor
+of St. Malo.</p>
+
+<p rend="small">
+"Enfin, Monsieur, j'aurai un tombeau, et je vous le devrai,
+ainsi qu'� mes bienveillants compatriotes. Vous savez, Monsieur,
+que je ne veux que quelques pieds de sable, une pierre
+de rivage sans ornement et sans inscription, une simple croix
+de fer, et une petite grille pour emp�cher les animaux de me
+deterrer. La croix dira que l'homme r�posant � ses pieds �tait
+un Chr�tien; cela suffit � ma m�moire."
+</p>
+
+<p>At low water, the island is accessible on foot.
+The tomb consists of a plain stone without inscription,
+surmounted by a granite cross, and is surrounded
+by an iron railing. It is placed on the
+edge of a rock, and is the resort of crowds of
+pilgrims.</p>
+
+<p rend="display; small">
+"La vaste mer murmure autour de son cercueil."
+</p>
+
+<p>The H�tel de France is the house where Chateaubriand's
+family lived, and the room he occupied is
+filled with various memorials of him. The Chateaubriand
+arms hang upon the wall. They were given
+by St. Louis to an ancestor who was wounded and
+taken prisoner at the battle of Massoura. The King
+changed the peacock's plumes, previously borne by
+the family, to fleurs de lys on a field gules, with the
+<pb n="042"/><anchor id="Pg042"/>
+proud motto "Mon sang teint les banni�res de
+France." The tides here rise to between forty and
+fifty feet above low-water mark, so that the harbour
+is dry at low water, and is crossed on foot to go to
+St. Servan, the suburb on the opposite side.</p>
+
+<p>We walked round the ramparts and were shown
+the little gate down which were sent every night the
+watch dogs of St. Malo, "chiens Anglais qui
+s'appelent dogues." Shut up during the day, they
+were let out at ten at night, and recalled in the
+morning to the sound of a copper trumpet, by their
+keeper, styled the "chiennetier." Enactments were
+made for their maintenance, called the "droit de
+chiennage." When let loose at night, a warning
+bell was rung to apprise the inhabitants, as they
+tore the legs of every one they met. Hence it used
+to be said "Il a �t� � St. Malo, les chiens lui ont
+rong� les mollets." In 1770, a naval officer trying to
+force a passage was attacked by a troop of these
+dogs prowling between St. Malo and St. Servan;
+his sword was useless as defence, and, exhausted, in
+despair he threw himself into the sea, but here he
+was followed by the dogs and torn to pieces. A few
+days after they were all destroyed by the municipality,
+and the custom of keeping them has been
+since discontinued. In an old map of St. Malo, or
+"Saint Malo de l'isle," as it was then styled, preserved
+in the Imperial Library at Paris, is laid down,
+<pb n="043"/><anchor id="Pg043"/>
+near the "Sillon" a little sentry-box marked, "Corps-de-garde
+de nuit pour les chiens," and again, near
+the "Tour de la grande Porte," is the "Pont aux
+chiens." The date of the map is 1662. The arms
+of St. Malo till the seventeenth century were, on a
+field argent, a mastiff gules.</p>
+
+<p>The castle dates principally from the Queen-Duchess
+Anne, and one of its massive towers, the
+"Qui qu'en grogne" is a memorial of her dauntless
+spirit. Twice crowned Queen of France, she was
+the only one of her line worthy of the ducal crown.
+The Bishop of St. Malo was temporal lord of the
+town, and maintained he held it direct from the
+Pope, as a fief of the Church, because it was built
+upon land where a convent formerly stood; and
+consequently the Duke of Brittany had no authority
+over it, either spiritual or temporal. Duke John V.
+began to build a castle, but the Bishop opposed himself
+to its construction, and the contest lasted on
+until the time of the Queen-Duchess Anne, who, in
+defiance of the Bishop, and to shew that she was and
+always would be sovereign of St. Malo, finished the
+fortress and caused the lofty inscription to be placed
+in raised letters upon the great tower: "Qui qu'en
+grogne, ainsi sera, c'est mon plaisir;"&mdash;so runs the
+legend, but unfortunately a similar story is told of
+Louis II., Duke of Bourbon.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite side of the mouth of the Rance
+<pb n="044"/><anchor id="Pg044"/>
+is Dinard, lately become a favourite watering-place;
+it has good sands, and houses and villas are rapidly
+rising up in every direction, and covering its granite
+hills.</p>
+
+<p>The prettiest route to Dinan is by the little
+steamer which ascends the Rance, a lovely voyage,
+occupying about two hours. The banks one mixture
+of rocks, valleys, and verdure; the river now
+expanding into the width of a lake, now narrowing
+between its forest-clothed sides. After passing
+through a lock, and, winding our way through a
+narrow pass of rocky crags, we reached the bridge
+of Dinan; above us, the gigantic granite viaduct
+stretched across the valley, the town, with its feudal
+walls and castle, perched on its rocky heights over
+the river.</p>
+
+<p>In the Grande Place is a miserable statue of Du
+Guesclin, who looks more like a wandering minstrel
+than the hero of Brittany and Constable of
+France. His life forms quite an historic romance.
+His future greatness was foretold by a prophetess;
+his wife, the Lady Tiphaine, was herself a fairy; his
+battles resemble those of the giants of old. Du
+Guesclin was born at Broons, and was the eldest of
+ten children and of great trouble to his parents.
+One day his mother dreamt she was in possession of
+a casket, containing portraits of herself and her lord,
+and on one side were set nine precious stones of
+<pb n="045"/><anchor id="Pg045"/>
+lustrous beauty encircling one rough unpolished
+pebble. In her dream she carried the casket to a
+lapidary, and asked him to take out the rough stone
+as unworthy of such goodly company; but he advised
+her to allow it to remain, and subsequently it
+shone forth more brilliantly than the precious gems
+with which it was surrounded. The after superiority
+of Bertrand over the other nine children
+explained the dream.</p>
+
+<p>It was in this "Place," where his statue now
+stands, the celebrated duel took place between Du
+Guesclin and an English knight, called by the
+Breton chroniclers Thomas of Cantorb�ry. Dinan
+was at that time closely besieged by the Duke of
+Lancaster (1359), with the young Count de Montfort,
+and defended by Du Guesclin. A truce of
+forty days had been agreed upon, before the expiration
+of which Oliver, brother of Du Guesclin,
+rode out unarmed beyond the city walls, and was
+made prisoner by Thomas of Cantorb�ry, who demanded
+a ransom of 1000 florins. On this news
+reaching Du Guesclin, he immediately repaired to
+the English camp, where he found the Duke of
+Lancaster playing chess with Sir John Chandos.
+They received him most cordially, and agreed that
+the dispute should be settled by a combat within
+the walls, the Duke of Lancaster consenting to preside.
+Victory declared in favour of Du Guesclin,
+<pb n="046"/><anchor id="Pg046"/>
+who would have cut off the head of his adversary,
+had not the Duke of Lancaster interceded for his
+life. Cantorb�ry was dragged upon a hurdle out
+of the lists, and condemned to pay 1000 florins to
+Oliver; his horse and armour were given to Bertrand,
+and the felon knight expelled the English
+army.</p>
+
+<p>We drove to see the Castle of Montafilant, one
+of the apanages of the Rohan family, which passed
+with many others to the unfortunate Gilles de
+Bretagne, by his marriage with the heiress Fran�oise
+de Dinan. The castle is approached by a steep
+winding path, leading to the plateau upon which it
+stands. Before the use of firearms, its position rendered
+it impregnable. Of its seven towers, two only
+remain.</p>
+
+<p>The story of Gilles de Bretagne forms the subject
+of a romance by the Vicomte Walsh. Though his
+conduct was not free from blame, his long captivity
+and tragic end have rendered this unfortunate prince
+an object of pity to posterity. Third son of Duke
+John V., he was reared with Henry VI. of England,
+and personally attached to the English; but he
+never was in league with England against his own
+country, and his uncle the Constable Richemont
+regarded him as the honour and hope of his house.
+His wife Fran�oise was the most beautiful and accomplished
+woman of her time, the "perle de noblesse,
+<pb n="047"/><anchor id="Pg047"/>
+de gentilesse, et de savoir;" and moreover possessed of
+the rich inheritance of her uncle Bertrand de Dinan,
+of the Montafilant branch. She had been betrothed
+from her infancy to the Sire de Gavre, son of Guy,
+Comte de Laval; but her father died when she was
+only eight years old, and Gilles de Bretagne carried
+her off by force. Dissatisfied with his paternal inheritance,
+the lordship of Champtoc�, he retired to
+Guildo, one of the ch�teaux of Fran�oise's dower,
+where he passed his time in company with his
+English archers. His withdrawal from court was
+represented to Duke Francis as the beginning of
+a revolt, by Arthur de Montauban, his bitterest
+enemy and a great favourite of the Duke. Gilles
+neglected his young wife, and she is reported, in an
+unguarded moment, to have said to Montauban,
+she would marry him "if her husband were to die."
+Duke Francis was determined to get rid of his
+brother, and Charles VII. was persuaded to assist
+him in his vile design. The King arrested Gilles
+on the charge of high treason, as being in correspondence
+with the English; and, in proof of the
+charge, his enemies produced forged letters from
+the King of England compromising the loyalty of
+Gilles. Charles gave him over to his brother for
+punishment. In vain were Gilles's supplications to
+the Duke, or the entreaties of the Constable, who
+went to Dinan and knelt to Francis to beg for the
+<pb n="048"/><anchor id="Pg048"/>
+pardon of his brother. Equally fruitless his being
+acquitted at R�don, from there being no proof of
+his guilt. The unfortunate Gilles was dragged from
+prison to prison, and consigned to keepers destitute
+of every feeling of humanity.  Montauban, an
+Italian by descent (his mother was a Visconti), sent
+for poison from Lombardy, and administered in his
+soup a strong dose, which the good constitution of
+Gilles enabled him to resist. Starvation was then
+tried, and the wretched Gilles would stand at his
+prison window, calling on the passers by to give
+him bread: "Du pain, du pain pour l'amour de
+Dieu," but no one ventured to relieve him. At
+last, a poor woman dared to give him food, and
+placed a loaf on the edge of his grated window,
+continuing for six months to share with him in
+secret her scanty meal of black bread. Seeing that
+he could hold out no longer and that his death was
+determined upon, Gilles begged the woman would
+fetch him a minister of religion, that he might confess
+before he died. By stealth she brought him a
+Cordelier monk, who confessed him across the bars
+of his prison, and Gilles adjured him to seek his
+brother and acquaint him with his pitiable condition.
+The monk started on his errand, but in the
+mean time the gaolers of Gilles determined on
+putting an end to his life. They twisted a cloth
+round his neck, and smothered him between two
+<pb n="049"/><anchor id="Pg049"/>
+mattresses while he slept. The monks of Bosquen
+carried his body to their abbey for interment, and
+the wooden effigy that was placed over his grave is
+still preserved in the Museum at St. Brieuc. The
+monk who had received Gilles's confession went in
+quest of Duke Francis, who, on hearing of his
+brother's death when at Avranches, had left for
+Saint Michel. The monk met him on the Gr�ve,
+and cited him in the name of his brother "de la
+part du Messire Gilles" to appear within fifty days
+at the tribunal of Heaven to answer for his murder.
+The menace was realised. Duke Francis died within
+the appointed time, struck with remorse, and terrified
+at the summons of the Cordelier. The monk was
+never seen again. On the death of Gilles, the Duke
+of Brittany himself wished to marry Fran�oise, but
+she would not listen to his proposals; and at last
+was obliged, in order to recover her liberty, to marry
+the aged Comte de Laval, father of her betrothed,
+with whom she lived peacefully thirty years, and had
+three sons. Duke Francis II. appointed her to the
+charge of rearing his daughter Anne.</p>
+
+<p>Arthur Montauban turned monk to avoid the
+vengeance of Duke Peter, brother of Gilles, and
+eventually became Archbishop of Bordeaux. The
+Pope gave him the Abbey of R�don, but popular
+indignation prevented him from accepting the appointment.</p>
+<pb n="050"/><anchor id="Pg050"/>
+
+<p>On our return from Montafilant we stopped to
+visit the Lunatic Asylum (Asile des ali�n�s), called
+Les Bas Foins, kept by the brothers of Saint-Jean-de-Dieu.
+There are six hundred inmates under the
+charge of about sixty brethren. The buildings,
+with the chapel, are very handsome and most complete
+in all the arrangements. Within the enclosure
+is a large piece of land. The lunatics are
+employed in agricultural, garden, and house occupations;
+they look very contented and happy.
+Visitors are not allowed to speak to them. We
+omitted seeing the Croix du Saint Esprit, a curiously
+sculptured Gothic granite cross of the fourteenth
+century, not far from the asylum.</p>
+
+<p>The castle of Dinan is now a prison. It was
+occupied by the Queen-Duchess Anne, when on
+her way to a pilgrimage to Notre Dame-du-Folgo�t,
+in fulfilment of a vow made during the illness of
+Louis XII. In the chapel is shewn a sculptured
+seat, still called the arm-chair of the Duchess Anne.
+Within these walls were crammed, in the last century,
+about 2000 English prisoners of war, many of
+whom fell victims to a contagious fever. From the
+platform of the keep we had a magnificent view of
+the surrounding country, extending to Mont Dol
+and the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The church of St. Sauveur has a richly sculptured
+Romanesque portal. It contains the heart of
+<pb n="051"/><anchor id="Pg051"/>
+Du Guesclin, transferred from the church of the
+Dominicans, where he desired it to be interred
+by the side of his wife Tiphaine. His body was
+buried at St. Denis, in a tomb King Charles V.
+caused to be made in his lifetime, and he left
+orders that on his death his Constable should
+repose at his feet. On the dark-coloured monumental
+stone now incrusted on the wall, are roughly
+sculptured his arms (an eagle displayed charged
+with a cotice<note place="foot">In heraldic language,
+"argent, � l'aigle de sable �ploy�e �
+deux t�tes, becqu�e et membr�e de gueules, � la cotice de
+gueules mise en bande, brochant sur le tout, ce qui semble
+�tre une brisure de cadet."</note>), with a commemorative inscription
+in gold letters:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display; text-align: center">
+<l><q rend="pre">Cy: gist: le cueur: de</q></l>
+<l>Missire: bertram: du gueaqu&#0299;</l>
+<l>en: son viv&#0257;t: con&#0275;tiable de</l>
+<l>france: qui: trepassa: le: xiii^e</l>
+<!--FIXME: atm, there is no way to get superscripts except with Unicode U0300-->
+<l>jour: de: jullet: l'an: mil iii^e</l>
+<l>IIII^xx dont: son: corps: repos</l>
+<l>avecques: ceulx: des: Roys</l>
+<l><q rend="post">a sainct: denis en France.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Above hangs a painting representing the Governor
+of Ch�teauneuf Randon, laying the keys of the
+town upon the dead body of the Constable.<note place="foot">
+The Governor of Ch�teauneuf Randon (D�p. Loz�re)
+had promised Du Guesclin he would surrender the place if
+relief did not arrive in fourteen days. The morning dawned,
+and no help had come. Du Guesclin lay dead, and the governor
+refused to give up the keys to any but to him. At noontide,
+the gates of the city were thrown open, and the governor
+issued forth at the head of the garrison, traversed the army at
+the sound of trumpets, and entered the tent where the body
+of the dead hero lay, on a table covered with flowers, and surrounded
+by the chiefs of the army. The governor knelt beside
+the corpse, and reverently placed the keys on the coffin.
+"Thus," he said, "I fulfil my promise, and keep faith to thee,
+oh noble Du Guesclin, even in death."</note></p>
+<pb n="052"/><anchor id="Pg052"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image13.jpg">
+    <head>13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Many of the streets of Dinan preserve the character
+of the Middle Ages, the houses upon columns
+forming a kind of porch or covered way; and most
+curious of all is the dirty, steep, narrow, winding
+street, called the Rue de Jerzual, a ravine extending
+from the top of the town, in one pitch, to the river's
+edge. The Museum at the Mairie has an interesting
+collection of tumulary slabs&mdash;recumbent figures
+<pb n="053"/><anchor id="Pg053"/>
+taken from different churches and abbeys, mostly
+from the Beaumanoir chapel of the Abbey of
+Lehon. There is one of Jean de Beaumanoir, son
+of the hero of the "Combat des Trente," treacherously
+slain by his steward. He is represented in
+full armour, but with his head bare, to indicate the
+manner of his death. The effigy of his wife is also
+in complete armour, but on the belt that encircles her
+waist, like those worn by the knights, is sculptured
+a wreath of roses. She was a Du Guesclin by birth,
+and her feet repose upon an eagle, the bearing of
+her house. The statue of Roland, Vicomte de
+Dinan, one of the nine great Barons of Brittany
+in the twelfth century, is of gigantic proportions;
+the warrior is clad from head to foot in chain mail,
+but he holds one of his gauntlets in his hand. In
+the Museum is also a clock given to the city of
+Dinan by the Duchess Anne, inscribed with the
+name of its maker and the date of its construction:
+"1498, � Nantes par M. Hainzer de cette ville."
+The ancient bronze standard measures (�talons) of
+Dinan are decorated with the arms of the City, and
+Gothic inscriptions in relief, "Cart (quart) � gros
+bl� pour Dinan"&mdash;"Cart � fourmant (froment) pour
+Dinan"&mdash;and "Bouesceau � scel (boisseau � sel)
+pour Dinan." Portraits of Du Guesclin and other
+Breton worthies are in one of the rooms (Salle de
+l'Od�on). That of the Constable answers to the
+<pb n="054"/><anchor id="Pg054"/>
+description given of his appearance. He was low
+in stature, with large Breton head, broad shoulders,
+long arms, and large hands. His eyes were green,
+and his complexion swarthy: "la peau noire comme
+un sanglier."</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 14. Ch�teau of La Belli�re.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image14.jpg">
+    <head>14. Ch�teau of La Belli�re.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The drives round Dinan are endless in variety,<note place="foot">
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Tel est Dinan, la ville aux sites po�tiques,</q></l>
+<l>Aux coteaux escarp�s, aux vallons romantiques;</l>
+<l>Qui, gracieuse, �l�ve, au milieu des vergers,</l>
+<l>Ses remparts tout couverts de jardins et d'ombrage,</l>
+<l>Son ch�teau cr�nel�, monument d'un autre age,</l>
+<l rend="right"><q rend="post">Et les d�mes de ses clochers.</q>&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Aubry</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg></note>
+and all beautiful. We took a carriage to see the
+Ch�teau of la Belli�re, about five miles and a half
+from Dinan, formerly the residence of Du Guesclin's
+<pb n="055"/><anchor id="Pg055"/>
+wife, the celebrated Lady Tiphaine; her name
+answers probably to our English Tiffany:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">William de Coningsby&mdash;</q></l>
+<l>Came out of Brittany</l>
+<l>With his wife Tiffany</l>
+<l>And her maid Manifas</l>
+<l><q rend="post">And his doggs Hardigras.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 15. Chimney. Ch�teau of La Belli�re.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image15.jpg">
+    <head>15. Chimney. Ch�teau <lb />of La Belli�re.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The Lady Tiphaine was heiress and daughter of the
+Vicomte de Belli�re; so deeply versed was she in
+astrology, she was called Tiphaine la F�e. During
+her husband's absence in Spain, she resided at Mont
+Saint Michel, having chosen this insulated spot for
+the facilities it afforded her of studying the stars.
+She gave Du Guesclin a calendar on vellum, containing
+verses at the beginning of each month,
+pointing out the lucky and unlucky days; how
+many she marked down as such, we know not.
+Tycho Brahe had thirty-two fatal days in his calendar.
+Had Du Guesclin consulted this precious volume,
+which is now preserved in the Library at Avranches,
+he would never have risked his fortune by fighting
+the battle of Auray on the Feast of St. Michel, one
+of the fatal days against which she specially warns
+him in her book. We wished to have seen the
+room where she died, and where many memorials
+of her are preserved; but the proprietor was at his
+d�jeuner, and would not grant us admittance, so
+we were forced to be content with seeing the exterior
+<pb n="056"/><anchor id="Pg056"/>
+of the house, a ch�teau of the end of the fourteenth
+century. It stands on the edge of a large sheet of
+water, in the midst of trees on the roadside
+between Dinan and St. Malo. Its
+principal characteristics are its tall octagonal
+chimney-shafts, composed of
+granite, brick, and slate.  They are
+surmounted by pieces of slate placed
+edgeways and forming a kind of capital
+or coronet to the granite shaft. Some
+of the chimneys have two circles of
+these coronets, and others are enriched
+with little rows of arches, of which the
+sombre slate background throws out
+the delicate ornamentation. Recrossing
+the magnificent viaduct, we proceeded
+to visit the Benedictine Priory of Lehon,
+called in the country "Chapelle des Beaumanoirs"
+from the mortuary chapel of that family attached
+to the abbey:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Beaumanoir! � ce nom de glorieux prodiges</q></l>
+<l>Des si�cles �coul�s r�veillent les prestiges:</l>
+<l>La pierre des tombeaux a paru se mouvoir</l>
+<l>Et des trente Bretons les clameurs belliqueuses</l>
+<l>Semblent r�pondre, sous ces vo�tes fameuses,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">A ce grand nom de Beaumanoir.</q>
+&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Aubry</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>The west front, with its round-arched portal surmounted
+by a large Gothic window, is very pretty.
+The chapel of the Beaumanoirs was ravaged at
+<pb n="057"/><anchor id="Pg057"/>
+the Revolution, the lead of the coffins sold, and
+the bones scattered. The statues have since been
+removed to the Museum at Dinan, and the crypt
+beneath, where they were buried, is inaccessible.
+At the Revolution, when the monks were expelled,
+the priory was sold and used for a spinning factory;
+and the weight of the machines crushed the floors,
+so as to shut up the entrance to the vaults. In the
+parish church adjacent, is to be noticed an ancient
+baptismal font, of cylindrical form, sculptured
+within and without. We returned home by the
+Ch�teau du Ch�ne-Ferron, approached by an avenue
+of firs, and had a lovely drive along the banks of
+the Rance.</p>
+
+<p>Our last excursion in Dinan was to the Ch�teau
+of La Garaye, rendered famous by the virtues and
+boundless charity of its last proprietors, Count
+Claude Toussaint Marot de la Garaye and his wife,
+whose interesting story is told in the charming poem
+of Mrs. Norton:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Listen to the tale I tell,</q></l>
+<l>Grave the story is&mdash;not sad,</l>
+<l>And the peasant plodding by</l>
+<l>Greets the place with kindly eye,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">For the inmates that it had.</q></l>
+
+<l rend="right"><bibl>
+ <author rend="smallcaps">The Lady of La Garaye.</author>
+</bibl></l></lg>
+
+<p>Count Claude de la Garaye and his wife were young,
+beautiful, and endowed with friends, riches, and all
+<pb n="058"/><anchor id="Pg058"/>
+that could make life bright and happy. They entertained
+with hospitality, and enjoyed the pleasures
+and amusements of the world; when one day the
+Countess was thrown from her horse, the expectations
+of an heir vanished, and she was left a cripple
+for life. Both were inconsolable for their
+disappointment. One day a monk came to visit them,
+and tried to comfort them, seeking by his converse
+to turn their thoughts from earthly affections to
+heavenly consolation&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Ah! my father," said the lady, "how happy are
+you, to love nothing on earth!"</p>
+
+<p>"You are mistaken," answered the monk; "I love
+all those who are in sorrow or suffering, and I submit
+myself to the will of the Almighty, and bend myself
+with resignation to every blow He strikes."</p>
+
+<p>He proceeded to show them there was still great
+happiness in store for them, in ministering to the
+comforts of others. Following his counsel, they
+went to Paris; for three years the Count studied
+medicine and surgery, and his wife became a
+skilful oculist. On their return to La Garaye, they
+gave up all the amusements of society, and devoted
+themselves to relieving the sufferings of their
+fellow creatures. Their house was converted into
+an hospital for the sick and the wounded, under
+the ministering care of the Count and his benevolent
+wife:&mdash;</p>
+<pb n="059"/><anchor id="Pg059"/>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Her home is made their home; her wealth their dole;</q></l>
+<l>Her busy courtyard hears no more the roll</l>
+<l>Of gilded vehicles, or pawing steeds,</l>
+<l>But feeble steps of those whose bitter needs</l>
+<l>Are their sole passport. Through that gateway pass</l>
+<l>All varying forms of sickness and distress,</l>
+<l>And many a poor worn face that hath not smiled</l>
+<l>For years,&mdash;and many a feeble crippled child,&mdash;</l>
+<l>Blesses the tall, white portal where they stand,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">And the dear Lady of the liberal hand.</q></l>
+
+<l rend="right"><bibl>
+ <author rend="smallcaps">The Lady of La Garaye.</author>
+</bibl></l></lg>
+
+<p>Nor was their philanthropy confined to their own
+province. In 1720, they offered themselves to M.
+de Belzunce&mdash;"Marseilles' good bishop"&mdash;to assist
+him during the visitation of the Plague. The fame
+of their virtues reached even the French Court, and
+Louis XV. sent Count de la Garaye the order of St.
+Lazarus with a donation of 50,000 livres and a contract
+on the post of 25,000 more.</p>
+
+<p>They both died at an advanced age, within two
+years of each other, and were buried among their
+poor at Taden, but their marble mausoleum in the
+church was destroyed in the French Revolution.
+Count de la Garaye<note place="foot">Count Claude died
+in 1755, at the age of eighty-one. The
+countess in 1757, at seventy-six.</note> left a large sum to be distributed
+among the prisoners, principally English, at Rennes
+and Dinan, who were suffering pent up in these
+crowded gaols. The Comte had attended the
+English prisoners at Dinan during a contagious
+<pb n="060"/><anchor id="Pg060"/>
+fever, called the "peste blanche," and, in acknowledgment
+of his humanity, Queen Caroline sent him
+two dogs with silver collars round their necks, and an
+English nobleman made him a present of six more.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 16. Ch�teau of La Garaye.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image16.jpg">
+    <head>16. Ch�teau of La Garaye.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The ruined ch�teau is approached by an ivy-covered
+gateway, through an avenue of beeches:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Le lierre flottant comme un manteau de deuil,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Couvre � demi la porte et rampe sur le seuil.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl>
+ <author rend="smallcaps">Lamartine</author>,
+ <title rend="italic">Harmonies Po�tiques</title>.
+</bibl></l></lg>
+
+<p>or, as Mrs. Norton renders it:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">And like a mourner's mantle, with sad grace,</q></l>
+<l>Waves the dark ivy&mdash;hiding half the door</l>
+<l>And threshold, where the weary traveller's foot</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Shall never find a courteous welcome more.</q></l>
+</lg>
+<pb n="061"/><anchor id="Pg061"/>
+<p>It is fast falling to pieces. The principal part
+remaining is an octagonal turret of three stories,
+with elegant Renaissance decoration round the windows.
+One more quotation from Mrs. Norton, and
+we quit these hallowed ruins:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">We know the healthy stir of human life</q></l>
+<l>Must be for ever gone!</l>
+<l>The walls where hung the warrior's shining casque</l>
+<l>Are green with moss and mould;</l>
+<l>The blindworm coils where Queens have slept, nor asks</l>
+<l>For shelter from the cold.</l>
+<l>The swallow,&mdash;he is master all the day,</l>
+<l>And the great owl is ruler through the night;</l>
+<l>The little bat wheels on his circling way,</l>
+<l>With restless flittering flight;</l>
+<l>And that small bat, and the creeping things,</l>
+<l>At will they come and go,</l>
+<l>And the soft white owl with velvet wings,</l>
+<l>And a shout of human woe!</l>
+<l>The brambles let no footsteps pass</l>
+<l>By that rent in the broken stair,</l>
+<l>When the pale tufts of the windle-strae grass</l>
+<l>Hang like locks of dry dead hair;</l>
+<l>But there the keen sound ever sweeps and moans,</l>
+<l><q rend="">Working a passage through the mouldering stones.</q></l>
+
+<l rend="right"><bibl>
+ <author rend="smallcaps">The Lady of La Garaye.</author>
+</bibl></l></lg>
+
+<p>From Dinan, instead of taking the customary
+road to the railway station of Caulnes, we hired
+a carriage, in order to visit the fortress castle of
+La Hunaudaye, midway between Dinan and Lamballe.
+The road lay by Jugon, a town prettily
+situated in the cleft of two hills. On one once
+<pb n="062"/><anchor id="Pg062"/>
+stood an important castle, which gave rise to the
+saying:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Qui a Bretagne sans Jugon,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">A chape sans chaperon.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Jugon is on the edge of two ponds. One of
+them, the largest in Brittany, hangs suspended over
+the town, as if threatening it with inundation. They
+told us it was swarming with fish of every description,
+and with pike of fabulous dimensions. Turning
+off the road to the right, we entered the forest of
+La Hunaudaye, and walked in a pouring rain to the
+ch�teau, situated a short distance from the road. It
+is of vast extent, has five round towers with ramparts
+of cut stone, and is surrounded by walls with
+machicolated parapets. It is a splendid ruin, but
+the incessant rain prevented us from spending much
+time in its examination. It was built in the thirteenth
+century by Olivier de la Tournemine, and
+was one of the strongest fortresses in Brittany.
+Situated in the midst of a vast forest, its lord and
+his retainers were the terror of the surrounding
+country. No traveller passed untaxed; all were
+compelled to pay toll. In 1504, the Bishop of
+St. Brieuc complains to the Parliament at Rennes
+that, regardless of the safeguard of the Duke, the
+foresters of the Lord of La Hunaudaye had carried
+off his horses, trunks, and baggage, and, a year
+later, they had the audacity to stop the Queen-Duchess
+<pb n="063"/><anchor id="Pg063"/>
+Anne on her way to a pilgrimage to the
+Folgo�t. The Queen was conducted to the presence
+of the Lord of La Hunaudaye, who maintained
+to her that he had only exercised his right of
+exacting a ransom from all who passed through the
+forest without his permission, but that he waived his
+privilege in favour of his Sovereign. Be that as it
+may, he received her Majesty most royally, as the
+old chaplain, Oliver de la Roche recounts, and gave
+a splendid banquet, which he fully describes. The
+table, he says, was four times covered with thirty-six
+dishes of viands, and lastly, was brought in, "en
+grande v�n�ration," by eight squires, a whole calf,
+standing on its legs, well seasoned, with an orange
+in its mouth; and, when it appeared, the trumpets
+sounded so loud that it seemed as if the walls shook.
+On seeing the "dainty dish" that was "set before
+the Queen," all wished to have a share; and the
+chaplain relates, with great satisfaction, how he was
+served himself twice by the Lord of La Hunaudaye.</p>
+
+<p>The dark deeds of the lords of La Hunaudaye
+have given rise to many a legend. The following is
+a translation of one of the most popular:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><bibl><title rend="smallcaps; text-align: center">Legend of La Hunaudaye.</title></bibl></l>
+<l rend="italic; margin-left:4">(Translation.)</l>
+<lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">When the rock eagle wakes,</q></l>
+<l>And the towers of Hunaudaye</l>
+<l>Gleam like three phantom forms</l>
+<l>In the morning's sunlight ray;</l>
+<pb n="064"/><anchor id="Pg064"/>
+<l>When night her darksome wing</l>
+<l>Folds round this desert waste,</l>
+<l>Shun all this cursed ground&mdash;</l>
+<l>Traveller flee thou in haste.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">There once&mdash;Great Heaven shield</q></l>
+<l>Us all! and no ill arise&mdash;</l>
+<l>There once&mdash;Hush! leave me not;</l>
+<l>Hear you, from the ground, low sighs?&mdash;</l>
+<l>There once&mdash;wrapped in the gloom</l>
+<l>Of a dark and rainy night,</l>
+<l>A man of haughty mien</l>
+<l>Knocked at the door of might.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">'Open!' cried he,&mdash;it turns</q></l>
+<l>On groaning hinge. The rain</l>
+<l>Pours, but the frightened guards</l>
+<l>Mark neither spot nor stain</l>
+<l>On his purple cloak&mdash;nor his plumes</l>
+<l>Droop wet, yet the torrents fall</l>
+<l>Wildly and fast to night,</l>
+<l>Beating the castle wall.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">The baron, stern and sad,</q></l>
+<l>Was in his tower alone,</l>
+<l>Pacing, with mailed heel,</l>
+<l>Upon the echoing stone:</l>
+<l>Cried he&mdash;'What stranger seeks,</l>
+<l>This hour, my castle drear?</l>
+<l>Ho! Oliver, Ho! Ralph,</l>
+<l>See who intrudeth here.'</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">'Heaven shield thee, baron brave!</q></l>
+<l>A strange knight in the hall</l>
+<l>Craves audience.' 'Lead him here:</l>
+<l>Stay thou and Ralph in call,</l>
+<l>At need.' Silent and slow</l>
+<l>The purple-mantled knight,</l>
+<l>Advancing, paused&mdash;his looks</l>
+<l>Gleaming unearthly bright.</l>
+</lg>
+<pb n="065"/><anchor id="Pg065"/>
+<lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">'Who art thou coming thus,</q></l>
+<l>Loud clamouring at my gate,</l>
+<l>Thou truly puissant knight,</l>
+<l>With not one squire for state?</l>
+<l>Knowst thou at word of mine&mdash;'</l>
+<l>The stranger knight smiled stern,</l>
+<l>Replied in awful voice,</l>
+<l>'Would'st thou my name? now learn:</l>
+<l>Here is my train&mdash;behold!'</l>
+<l>He cried. There hideous stood</l>
+<l>One spectre, then two more&mdash;</l>
+<l>A sight to chill the blood&mdash;</l>
+<l>Unveiled their features pale,</l>
+<l>All three in cere-cloth dressed,</l>
+<l>Opening all wide to point</l>
+<l>Where blood flowed from the breast.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">'Baron, these are my guard,'</q></l>
+<l>Said the unknown&mdash;'Here, lo!</l>
+<l>Thy father's aged form,</l>
+<l>By poignard stroke laid low;</l>
+<l>Here thy wife, cruelly slain</l>
+<l>In the year thy brother fell;</l>
+<l>They stand, pale, bleeding, stiff,&mdash;</l>
+<l>Their murderer, can'st thou tell?'</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">The phantoms three enlaced</q></l>
+<l>The trembling baron round;</l>
+<l>He vainly shrieked,&mdash;the walls</l>
+<l>With demon laughs resound;</l>
+<l>The echoing thunders rolled</l>
+<l>Along the valley deep;</l>
+<l>Lightnings, when pale dawn broke,</l>
+<l>Blasted the castle keep.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l><q rend="pre">It stands a blackened pile;</q></l>
+<l>The ruined gate is there.</l>
+<l>But the sky lowers dark,</l>
+<l>Oh! traveller flee, beware;</l>
+<pb n="066"/><anchor id="Pg066"/>
+<l>At this hour the shades of night</l>
+<l>Brood o'er the solemn gloom.</l>
+<l>Traveller, haste, oh! haste;</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Leave this abode of doom.</q></l>
+</lg></lg>
+
+<p>It was in the forest of La Hunaudaye that the
+Chouans of the C�tes du Nord were secretly exercised
+and drilled by their chief, La Rou�rie, under
+the name of Gosselin, who died of horror on hearing
+of the execution of thirteen of his confederates
+betrayed by the physician Chaftal. Gosselin was
+succeeded by the "Cid" of the Chouan chiefs, Boishardy,
+called the "Sorcier," who, after his interview
+with General Humbert, was betrayed and shot by
+the "Bleus." For twelve years was Brittany cut off
+from France by this Chouan war, an insurrection
+even more formidable than that of La Vend�e. The
+peninsular position of Brittany, its vast extent of
+coasts, its forests, its mountains, its people, speaking
+a strange language, entirely under the subjection of
+the priests, rendered it peculiarly adapted to carry
+on a war against the republicans; a war, the whole
+object of which was to upset all order, by preventing
+the citizens from accepting office under the republic,
+by punishing those who acquired national property,
+by stopping couriers and all public conveyances,
+destroying bridges, breaking up roads, assassinating
+public officers, and executing horrible punishments
+on those who sent provisions into the towns.</p>
+<pb n="067"/><anchor id="Pg067"/>
+
+<p>The castle of La Hunaudaye was destroyed by
+order of the Commune of Lamballe, in 1793, that it
+might not serve as a retreat for the Chouans.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived very wet at Lamballe, a town most
+picturesquely situated on the declivity of a granite
+cliff, surmounted by a handsome church, rising from
+the very edge of the rocks. It formed part of the
+territory of the Duke of Penthi�vre, whose heiress,
+Jeanne la Boiteuse, married Charles of Blois, the
+competitor with John de Montfort<note place="foot">
+It may appear almost superfluous to refer to the cause of
+the War of Succession, which for twenty years devastated
+Brittany, and brought the armies of France and England
+into the duchy. John III. died in 1341, leaving no children.
+He had a brother Guy, Comte de Penthi�vre, and a half-brother,
+John de Montfort. Charles left the succession to
+Charles de Ch�tillon, Comte de Blois, nephew of Philip
+Augustus, King of France, who had married Jeanne, the only
+daughter and heiress of Guy; but his half-brother, John de
+Montfort, seized the duchy. The decision was referred to the
+King of France, who gave it in favour of his relation Charles
+of Blois. De Montfort sought the protection of the King of
+England, whom he acknowledged as King of France, and
+Edward III. readily gave him his support. It became no
+longer the dispute of a province, but of two mighty nations, in
+which the Kings of France, England, and Navarre took part,
+and which was illustrated by the names of Chandos, Manny,
+Du Guesclin and Clisson. The Bretons on the east of the
+province sided with the French prince, those of the promontory
+with the son of de Montfort. The battle of Auray, 1364,
+decided the war in favour of De Montfort, but the contest
+did not finally cease till the marriage of Anne de Bretagne to
+Charles VIII. united the duchy to the French crown.
+</note> for the dukedom
+<pb n="068"/><anchor id="Pg068"/>
+of Brittany. More tenacious of her rights than her
+husband, Jeanne would never listen to any compromise.
+After the treaty of Bretigny, the kings of
+England and France proposed a division of the
+duchy between the two rivals; but, intimidated by
+his wife, Charles dared not consent; and again,
+before the battle of Auray, when a division was
+agreed upon, subject to the acceptance of the Countess,
+Jeanne exclaimed, "My husband makes too
+cheap a bargain of what is not his own." And she
+wrote to Charles, "Do what you please. I am a
+woman, and cannot do more; but I had rather lose
+my life, or two if I had them, before I would consent
+to so reproachable an act, to the shame of my
+family" (<hi rend="italic">des miens</hi>). Later she said to him, "Preserve
+me your heart, but preserve me also my duchy,
+and, happen what may, act so that the sovereignty
+remains to me entire." Her pride and obstinacy
+cost her husband his life. The name of Lamballe
+is associated with the memory of the unfortunate
+Princesse de Savoie de Carignan, the sad victim of
+revolutionary fury. On the death of her husband,
+the Prince de Lamballe, the vast estates of the
+Penthi�vre family passed to his sister, the wife of
+Philippe Egalit�, and from her descended to Louis
+Philippe, King of the French.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 17. Section of Lanleff Church.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image17.jpg">
+    <head>17. Section of Lanleff Church.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Next day we made an excursion to the famed
+Temple of Lanleff, in Breton, the "land of tears,"
+<pb n="069"/><anchor id="Pg069"/>
+situated in a retired valley about six miles from the
+sea. According to the tradition of the country, it
+was built by "Les moines rouges," as they style the
+Templar Knights. The road was incessantly up
+and down hill, as we afterwards found they are
+throughout Brittany; a "pays accident�" it may
+be truly called. The chapel of Lanleff is composed
+of two concentric circular enclosures separated by
+twelve round arches, with cushion-shaped capitals,
+having heads, human and animal, rudely sculptured
+upon them at the four angles. Its whole diameter
+is about twenty-two feet. It was probably built
+by some Templar Knight in the beginning of the
+twelfth century on his return from the Holy Land.
+The number of arches may allude to that of the
+twelve Apostles.</p>
+<pb n="070"/><anchor id="Pg070"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 18. Plan of Lanleff Church.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image18.jpg">
+    <head>18. Plan of Lanleff Church.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The parish church was built into the east side of
+the temple, the only part which has preserved its
+roof, and which served as a
+vestibule to the more modern
+building. A gigantic yew
+formerly grew in the central
+enclosure, and overshadowed
+it with its spreading branches;
+but the parish church has
+been taken down and rebuilt
+in another part of the village,
+and the yew-tree has disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>Close to the temple is a spring enclosed by flagstones.
+When moistened, they appear covered with
+blood-stained spots. According to the tradition, in
+olden times an unnatural father sold his child to the
+Evil One. The gold received for the bargain was
+counted out upon the side of the spring, and the
+accursed money left its print upon the stones. A
+bare-legged peasant who stood by with her pitcher,
+threw some water over the stones, and immediately
+there appeared round red spots of different sizes&mdash;indelible
+marks of the diabolical bargain. We went
+into a cottage close by, and had some boiled eggs
+and cider. The inmates were at their meal&mdash;a bowl
+of milk, into which they broke their buckwheat
+"galette." We were much struck with the jealous
+<pb n="071"/><anchor id="Pg071"/>
+pertinacity of the Breton, to show he considers himself
+as of a different people and country to the rest
+of France, a feeling which more than three hundred
+years has not dissipated. Our driver would talk of
+Bretons and French as of distinct nations, and the
+Normans in this part of Brittany are the special
+objects of hatred, originating, perhaps, in the former
+subjection of Brittany to Normandy. When Charles
+the Simple ceded to the fierce Northmen the province
+now known by their name, their sovereignty
+extended over Brittany, and the dukes of Normandy
+did homage for both provinces to the King of
+France. The Bretons struggled hard against the
+supremacy of the Barbarians, but eventually had
+to acknowledge the Duke of Normandy as their
+sovereign lord.</p>
+
+<p>St. Brieuc, principal town of the department of
+the C�tes-du-Nord, has been described as an old
+town with a new face. Though one of the oldest in
+Brittany, it has little of antiquity to detain the traveller.
+The Palais de Justice is a handsome building,
+in the midst of a pretty garden, commanding a
+view of the Tour de Cesson, lower down the river
+(the Gou�t), a large circular tower built by Duke
+John IV., and blown up by Henry IV., at the
+desire of the Briochins, as the inhabitants of St.
+Brieuc style themselves. The mine split it in two,
+and the part that remains serves as a landmark for
+<pb n="072"/><anchor id="Pg072"/>
+the pilots between St. Brieuc and its port, about
+two miles distant, called L�gu�. Notre Dame
+d'Esp�rance is a pretty church, rebuilt about ten
+years since, with a calvary in front, and a series of
+painted windows representing the principal saints
+of Brittany, and the most celebrated pilgrimages of
+the Virgin in that province. At St. Brieuc, 1689,
+James II. of England reviewed his little army, and
+was received with royal honours by the bishop of
+the place.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded by the railway to Guingamp, next
+to St. Brieuc, the principal town of the department,
+capital of the duchy of Penthi�vre. It is situated
+in the richly wooded and cultivated valley of the
+Trieux, a favourite fishing river of considerable size,
+and affording trout, salmon, and dace, from Guingamp
+to Paimpol, where it falls into the sea, a distance
+of twenty miles. It runs through the centre
+of the town, and is here a considerable stream.</p>
+
+<p>Attached to the Cathedral is the venerated sanctuary
+of Notre Dame-du-Bon-Secours, one of the
+most celebrated places of pilgrimage in Brittany.
+The pardon takes place the Saturday before the first
+Sunday in July, and owes its origin to the brotherhood
+called the "Fr�rie blanche," an association of
+which Duke Peter accepted the title of lay-abbot.
+The motto embroidered on their banner was (in
+Breton) "A triple cord is not easily broken." The
+<pb n="073"/><anchor id="Pg073"/>
+triple cord being emblematic of the three estates&mdash;clergy,
+nobles, and laity&mdash;in whose unity consisted
+the strength of Brittany. The Fr�rie blanche no
+longer exists, the triple cable is broken, the pilgrimage
+alone remains.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 19. Fountain of Duke Peter.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image19.jpg">
+    <head>19. Fountain of Duke Peter.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>La Pompe, or the fountain of Duke Peter, as it is
+<pb n="074"/><anchor id="Pg074"/>
+called, is of later dater date, being in the style of the
+Renaissance. It consists of three circular basins in
+tiers. On the lower are sea-horses, which, with their
+wings, support the second basin, and Naiads uphold
+the third. On the top is a figure of the Virgin with
+her arms extended.</p>
+
+<p>The women of Guingamp wear high muslin caps,
+dark petticoats, and black stockings. Knitting-pins
+in hand, they work away at their stockings whether
+walking, talking, or with a load of butter on their
+heads, as they do throughout all Brittany. When
+not at work, their knitting-pins are stuck in their
+hair. Knitting and spinning are the occupation of
+their lives. When the Breton's idol, Du Guesclin,
+was a prisoner to the Black Prince, and was asked how
+he could raise the large sum named for his ransom,
+Du Guesclin replied, that "the women of Brittany
+would rather spin for a year and ransom him with
+their distaffs, than that he should remain prisoner."</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Quand vous �tiez captif, Bertrand, fils de Bretagne,</q></l>
+<l>Tous les fuseaux tournaient aussi dans la campagne;</l>
+<l>Chaque femme apporte son �cheveau de lin;</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Ce fut votre ran�on, messire Du Guesclin!</q></l>
+
+<l rend="right"><bibl>
+ <title rend="italic">Les Bretons</title>,
+ <author rend="smallcaps">A. Brizeux</author>.
+</bibl></l></lg>
+
+<p>Guingamp was given by Duke John V. to his son
+Peter, who resided here and rebuilt the castle. When
+attacked by his mortal illness, the physicians attributed
+his malady to witchcraft, and declared it could
+<pb n="075"/><anchor id="Pg075"/>
+only be remedied by counter-spells. The Prince
+refused to have recourse to such means, saying,
+"I had rather die by the will of God, than live by
+the will of the Devil."&mdash;"J'aime mieux mourir de
+par Dieu, que de vivre de par le Diable."</p>
+
+<p>We walked to the small chapel of St. L�onard,
+picturesquely situated on a little eminence. It was
+built by Charles of Blois, on his return from his
+captivity in England, and dedicated by him to St.
+L�onard, the patron-saint of prisoners&mdash;a contemporary
+of Clovis, from whom he obtained permission
+to set free all the captives he should find in the
+prisons. In the month of May, people who are
+attacked with fever repair to St. L�onard to seek,
+upon the walls of the chapel or on the calvary
+attached to it, snails as cures for their malady.
+They must gather them themselves, pound them,
+and put them into little bags, which they wear round
+their necks. As soon as the fever leaves them they
+bury their bags at the foot of the walls of the chapel,
+and, if they fail to perform this ceremony, the fever
+will return. We found quantities of these bags,
+made of coarse linen, lying half-buried under the
+walls of the chapel. There is a pardon here every
+year, on which occasion only the chapel is opened.</p>
+
+<p>We took a carriage to Paimpol. On our way we
+stopped at the Ch�teau de Boisgelin, belonging to
+the Marquis of the same name, but could not obtain
+<pb n="076"/><anchor id="Pg076"/>
+admittance. On to the Abbey of Beauport (Sancta
+Maria de Bello Porto), founded in the thirteenth
+century, beautifully situated on a tongue of land at
+the entrance of the Bay of Paimpol, opposite the
+island of Saint-Rion. In its large garden, which
+extends down to the sea, are planted myrtles, figs,
+mulberries, and other trees of the south of Europe.
+Beauport has been called the Chartreuse of Brittany.
+It is a lovely secluded spot, as, indeed, are most of
+the sites of the old abbeys, varying in aspect, but
+always beautiful. No description can give an idea
+of the magnificent panoramic views from the walls
+of the abbey.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 20. Abbey of Beauport.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image20.jpg">
+    <head>20. Abbey of Beauport.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>M. Merim�e justly observes, "It appears strange
+that, in so early a stage of civilisation, the monks
+should be so alive to the beauties of nature. The
+contemplative habits of monastic life must at all
+times have imparted to the mind a feeling of abstract
+beauty, independent of any idea of real utility. Secure
+of an uniform, peaceful existence, limited in
+his pleasures and his ambition, sheltered by his sacred
+office, above others, from the reverses of fortune,
+the monk of the thirteenth century was in a position
+to love, and did love, beauty for itself. And while
+the knight, at war with all the world, thought only
+on building an impregnable fortress, the abbot embellished
+his dwelling, and tasted the enjoyments
+afforded by imagination and the arts. "The abbey
+<pb n="077"/><anchor id="Pg077"/>
+<pb n="078"/><anchor id="Pg078"/>
+<pb n="079"/><anchor id="Pg079"/>
+of Beauport is built in the pointed style, and is a
+perfect example of the monastic architecture of the
+thirteenth century&mdash;the most important and most
+beautiful convent ruins in Brittany. The original
+disposition of its buildings may yet be clearly traced.
+These abbeys were all built upon the same plan.
+In the centre was the square garden (pr�au), surrounded
+by the cloisters. On the south side the
+church, extending from west to east; on the north,
+the refectory, with the kitchen attached. On the
+east was the chapter-house, and some small apartments;
+above these were the dormitories. Outside
+was the interior court, reserved for the brethren, and
+beyond, the great court, into which the provisions
+were brought, and round which were the stables and
+farm buildings. The garden, orchard, mill, oven,
+dovecote, cider-press, &amp;c., were all within the walled
+enclosure, for the abbeys were not merely convents
+dedicated solely to devotional exercises. After prayer
+followed labour. The Breton abbeys were quite
+model farms; the woods and the commons afforded
+the means of rearing cattle to those who had the
+privilege of pasturage in the forests. Many had
+also the right of acorns and beech-mast for their
+pigs (<hi rend="italic">droit au gland et � la fa�ne</hi>). One abbey,
+that of Morimond (Haute Marne), is recorded to
+have had twenty piggeries, of three hundred pigs
+each, distributed in its forests. The monks also
+<pb n="080"/><anchor id="Pg080"/>
+reared sheep and horses, and fattened fish in their
+ponds. They were the first who advanced the
+science of horticulture and the cultivation of vegetables.
+To these agricultural pursuits were added,
+in many convents, the industrial arts, and some of
+the brethren were brewers, curriers, fullers, weavers,
+shoemakers, carpenters, and blacksmiths. Their
+cultivation of the liberal arts and sciences is well
+known. During the Middle Ages the monasteries
+were the sole depositories of learning. Beauport is
+now occupied by a Polish lady, Countess Poninsky,
+who allows no one to enter the abbey, as her husband
+was buried in the church.</p>
+
+<p>Two or three miles further we reached Paimpol,
+where we remained the night, at a nice hotel.
+Paimpol is a seaport town prettily situated in a
+cultivated country on the bay that bears its name.
+Its inhabitants are employed in the mackerel
+and Iceland fisheries. The women about here
+wear close straw-bonnets. They all, in this department,
+ride on horseback, "� califourchon," like
+the men.</p>
+
+<p>We hired our carriage on to Tr�guier. At
+L�zardrieux we passed the estuary of the Trieux,
+over a magnificent suspension-bridge, at a considerable
+elevation above the water, vessels sail under it.
+It was built 1840, and is 833 feet long, that is, 167
+longer than the famed bridge of La Roche Bernard
+<pb n="081"/><anchor id="Pg081"/>
+(Loire Inf�rieure). The bridge swung frightfully
+when we passed over it. In the churchyard of
+Pleudaniel is a pretty granite calvary, and skulls are
+placed in recesses in the wall on each side of the
+church-porch.</p>
+
+<p>We next came to the Ch�teau of La Roche
+Jagu, on the summit of a hill overhanging the
+river Trieux and defending the entrance. It has
+more of the character of a "maison forte" than of
+a "manoir," as was termed the habitation of a
+knight, and of those who holding a fief, yet did
+not possess the seignorial right to a castle with
+towers and donjon. The manoir might be enclosed
+by walls and moats, but not with towers. The entrance
+on the side opposite to the river is through
+a large walled court by a low Gothic doorway,
+closed by an enormous iron grating of upright and
+horizontal bars of great thickness, hanging on four
+hinges, and secured by four locks; all the windows
+have gratings of the same kind. A stone staircase
+leads to the one story, consisting of a suite of large
+rooms half lighted by narrow windows. Some of
+these are occupied by the keeper of the castle and
+others are reserved for the use of the proprietor, the
+Marquis d'Argentr�, and, when he goes there, are
+decorated and partly furnished with the pieces of
+old tapestry lying about. At the end of these
+rooms is a turret, which communicates with a
+<pb n="082"/><anchor id="Pg082"/>
+covered gallery surmounting the whole length of the
+fa�ade facing the river, and commanding a beautiful
+view of the windings of the silvery Trieux
+and of its fir-clothed banks. This gallery is furnished
+with battlements, and served the double
+purpose of a rampart and an observatory. The
+wall on the river-side is fifteen feet thick, and a
+chapel hewn in the thickness of the wall is lighted
+by a Gothic window looking over the Trieux.
+Fourteen elegant chimney-shafts of cut stone, cylindrical
+in form, and ornamented with iron spikes,
+give a most original character to the building.
+The ch�teau belonged to the Mar�chal Duc de
+Richelieu, who sold it in 1773 to the Tressan family,
+under the stipulation that its subterranean passages
+should not be explored. They are said to extend
+under the bed of the river to the Ch�teau of Frinandour,
+half a league distant.</p>
+
+<p>We next passed through Pontrieux, a pretty,
+small town, seated in a deep valley, the river Trieux
+flowing through it. The river here is famous for
+salmon, and there is a considerable commerce in its
+little port.</p>
+
+<p>La Roche-Derrien on the Jaudy, during the
+War of Succession in Brittany, was a castle of some
+celebrity. It was here Charles of Blois was taken
+prisoner by the English, who, under Sir Thomas
+Dagworth, were in possession of the place. Charles
+<pb n="083"/><anchor id="Pg083"/>
+of Blois assembled a large army, and attacked them
+by night. Three times was he rescued, and three
+times retaken; he had received eighteen wounds,
+and was at last compelled to surrender. Jeanne de
+Montfort, like all women who hate, was very vindictive,
+and caused her illustrious prisoner to be
+ignominiously dragged to Quimperl�, Vannes, and
+Hennebont, whence he was transferred to London,
+and confined in the Tower. It was nine years
+before he regained his liberty.  Meanwhile his
+heroic wife, Jeanne de Penthi�vre, became head of
+his party, as Jeanne de Flandre was that of the
+De Montfort. The "War of the two Jeannes"
+continued for nine years, during which they fought
+with fierceness and courage, and ruled with ability.
+Curious,&mdash;the history of France was illustrated in
+this century by five heroines of the name of Jeanne:
+Jeanne d'Arc, Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais, and
+the Jeannes of Penthi�vre, Flandre, and Clisson,
+who made themselves famous in Brittany. On his
+release, Charles of Blois gave La Roche-Derrien to
+Du Guesclin.  The castle was demolished, but a
+calvary has been built on the site.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from La Roche-Derrien is the church of
+Langoat, which contains the monument of Ste.
+Pomp�e (1370), mother of St. Tugdual. On the
+granite tomb reposes her marble effigy, and around
+it bas-reliefs in Gothic niches represent the life of the
+<pb n="084"/><anchor id="Pg084"/>
+saint. In all the churches in this district, tressels
+are placed in the nave ready for funerals. The
+gravestones have in each a little hollow well, to
+contain water for sprinkling over the grave, or in
+some a small basin is set upon the gravestone, with
+a sprig of box laid by the side, for the same pious
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Every one must be struck by the excellence of
+the roads in Brittany, as indeed throughout France;
+in no instance does the French administrative talent
+more fully display itself. The roads are of three
+classes: the "routes imp�riales," under the care of
+the Government; "d�partementales," kept entirely
+at the expense of the department; and the "chemins
+vicinaux," which belong to the communes or
+parishes, and which all the inhabitants are called
+upon to support. To each lieue de poste (two and
+a half miles), is appointed a "cantonnier" or road-keeper,
+who is responsible for the condition of the
+length of road assigned to his care.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped at Kermartin, a farmhouse near
+Tr�guier, to see the bed said to have belonged to
+St. Ives, the favourite saint of the Bretons, and
+whose name is borne by the majority of the inhabitants
+of the district of Tr�guier and St. Brieuc.
+Charles of Blois held him in great veneration. He
+gave part of a rib of St. Ives to the church at Lamballe,
+and carried the relic in procession barefooted to
+<pb n="085"/><anchor id="Pg085"/>
+the church. Before the battle of Auray, he ordered
+his men to march "in the name of God and St.
+Yves."</p>
+
+<p>St. Ives, or Yves H�lory, was one of the most
+remarkable characters of the thirteenth century.
+He studied law in the schools of Paris, and applied
+his talents in defending the cause of the poor;
+hence he was called "the poor man's advocate;"
+and so great to this day is the confidence placed in
+his justice, that, in the department of the C�tes-du-Nord,
+when a debtor falsely denies his debt, a
+peasant will pay twenty sous for a mass to St. Yves,
+convinced that St. Yves will cause the faithless
+creditor to die within the year. His truthfulness
+was such, he was called St. Yves de Verit�. He is
+the special patron of lawyers, and always represented
+in the "mortier," or lawyer's cap, with an
+ermine-trimmed scarlet robe.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Saint Yves �tait Breton,</q></l>
+<l>Avocat et pas larron,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Chose rare, se dit-on.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Lawyers, says a writer, take him for a patron, but
+not for a model. Philip le Hardi, in acknowledgment
+of his worth, granted him a pension of six
+deniers a day&mdash;in those times a considerable sum.</p>
+
+<p>Over this house is a marble tablet with this inscription:&mdash;</p>
+<pb n="086"/><anchor id="Pg086"/>
+
+<p rend="small; text-align: center">
+<q rend="pre">Ici est n� le 17 Oct^r 1253, et est mort le 19 Mai 1303,</q></p>
+
+<p rend="smallcaps; text-align: center">Saint Yves,</p>
+
+<p rend="small">
+<q rend="post">Officiel de Tr�guier, cur� de Tredretz et de Lohannec. Sa
+maison, qui a subsist� jusqu'en l'ann�e 1834, ayant �t� alors
+demolie � cause de vetust�, Mg^r Hyacinthe Louis de Quelen,
+Arch^vque de Paris, et propri�taire des domaines de Kermartin,
+a fait placer cette inscription, afin qu'un lieu sanctifi� par la
+presence d'un si grand serviteur de Dieu ne demeur�t pas
+inconnu (1837).</q></p>
+
+<p>The house is a good specimen of a Breton dwelling;
+by the side of the fire, in the one room of
+which most of these cottages consist, fixed against
+the wall like the berth of a ship, stands the bedstead
+or "lit clos" of old oak, shut in by carved and
+well-waxed sliding panels, often inscribed with the
+sacred monogram.  The two mattresses, paillasse,
+and "cossette de plume," are piled up to such a
+height as barely to admit of its tenants creeping into
+the bed. In front is the customary chest, containing
+the family wardrobe, answering the double purpose
+of a seat and the means of ascending into the bed.
+Often we have seen cupboards on each side of the
+large chimney with two shelves, which served as
+beds for the juvenile members of the family. Forms
+and a polished table complete the furniture; the
+last has frequently little wells hollowed in the top,
+used, instead of plates, to hold the soup. Over the
+table, suspended by pulleys, are two indispensable
+articles in a Breton dwelling&mdash;a large circular basket
+<pb n="087"/><anchor id="Pg087"/>
+to cover the bread, and a kind of wooden frame
+or rack, round which the spoons are ranged. Forks
+they do not use. Festoons of sausages, with hams,
+bacon, candles, skins of lard, onions, horse-shoes,
+harness, all hang suspended from the ceiling, which
+consists of fagots of hazel suspended by cross-poles.
+The floor is of beaten earth. One narrow window
+admits the light, and there are no outhouses. The
+manure-heap is generally at the house-door, and
+the pigs and poultry seem on an equally intimate
+footing as they are in our Irish cabins. The
+Breton's cottage has often no garden, to occupy his
+leisure hours; and the men, after their daily work,
+resort to the cabaret to spend their time and their
+earnings. Agriculture is very backward in Brittany,
+but the land produces abundance of corn. It
+is thrashed out direct from the field, on a clay floor
+(aire). Beet-root and clover grow very luxuriantly,
+and in some fields the pretty red clover (<hi rend="italic">Trifolium
+incarnatum</hi>) carpets the country with its crimson
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p>Near the farmhouse of Kermartin is the parish
+church of Minihy-Tr�guier, formerly a chapel
+founded by St. Ives and attached to the "manoir."
+The will of St. Ives is framed and hung up in the
+church, and his breviary is also preserved here; but
+the guide said it was now kept at the priest's house, as
+people were in the habit of taking away a leaf as a
+<pb n="088"/><anchor id="Pg088"/>
+relic. Minihy, <hi rend="italic">i. e.</hi> Monk's House, is a name given
+to those places which, through the intercession of
+some saint, had the right of sanctuary. They were
+marked with a red cross, and, how great soever the
+crime, were regarded as inviolable. In 1441 the
+right of sanctuary was restricted to churches;
+before, it was extended to towns and districts.
+Tr�guier had the privilege within a radius of twelve
+miles from the town. St. Malo also possessed the
+right of sanctuary. Tr�guier is one of the four
+bishoprics that formed the ancient divisions of
+Brittany. The others were L�on, Cornouaille, and
+Vannes. The "pays de Tr�guier" answers exactly
+to the present department of the C�tes-du-Nord;
+L�on to the territory or arrondissement of Brest and
+Morlaix; Cornouaille has Quimper and Carhaix
+for its principal towns; and Vannes, the country of
+Celtic remains, is to the south.</p>
+
+<p>Tr�guier is prettily situated on a hill, at the confluence
+of the rivers Jaudy and Guindy; its principal
+building is the beautiful, imposing cathedral, with
+its elegant spire, begun in the thirteenth century by
+St. Yves, and dedicated to St. Tugdual, whose name,
+like St. Yves, is often given in baptism to the
+Breton children. St. Yves is buried here, and also
+Duke John V., who founded the Chapelle du Duc,
+and desired to be interred at the feet of St. Yves,
+for whom he had a special regard, and to whom he
+<pb n="089"/><anchor id="Pg089"/>
+erected a magnificent tomb, for three centuries the
+object of veneration in Brittany. The Duke paid
+for it his own weight in silver (389 marks 7 oz.),
+in 1424, to Maistre Jacques de Hougue. The victories
+of his father John the Conqueror were chased
+in bas-relief round the tomb, which was destroyed
+in 1793. Duke John V. was a contemptible prince,
+who eight times changed his party from weakness
+rather than policy, and on whom Margaret de
+Clisson and her sons retaliated the cowardly seizure
+of her father, the Constable Clisson, by Duke
+John IV. One of the towers of the cathedral is
+called the tower of Hastings, but its date is evidently
+subsequent to that of the Norman freebooter. The
+cathedral has preserved its beautiful cloisters, the
+work of the fifteenth century, although it has been
+ravaged by the Normans of the ninth century, the
+English in the fourteenth, the Spaniards in the sixteenth,
+and by the Revolutionists of 1793. It was
+the port chosen by the Constable Clisson, 1387, for
+the invasion of England, an expedition proposed
+and projected by himself. His hatred against the
+English was so great, though educated in England,
+he was termed the "boucher des Anglais." When
+the Duke of Brittany gave Chandos the ch�teau
+of Gavre, which was within a league of Clisson's
+ch�teau of Blain (Loire Inf�rieure), "I will never,"
+he exclaimed, "be the neighbour of the English,"
+<pb n="090"/><anchor id="Pg090"/>
+and accordingly he sallied out one morning and
+burnt the castle to the ground. Chandos complained
+to the Black Prince, who sent a letter of
+remonstrance to Clisson, but it was only replied
+by a challenge to the Prince to meet him in single
+combat. Clisson caused his own ship to be built at
+Tr�guier, and had constructed a tower or framework
+of large timber, to be put together on his
+landing in England, for the lords to retreat to as
+a place of safety, and to be lodged therein securely
+in the event of a night attack. This tower, Froissart
+says, was so constructed, that when dislodged
+it could be taken to pieces, and many carpenters
+and other workmen were engaged, at very high
+wages, to go with it to England to superintend
+the putting of it together. Four thousand men-at-arms
+and 2000 cross-bowmen were in readiness
+for the expedition, with horses, vessels laden with
+wine, salted provisions, and other necessaries. All
+these formidable preparations were rendered useless
+by the arrest of the Constable the day before his
+embarkation. We went to the Cemetery, which
+has its ossuary, reliquary, or bone-house, an inseparable
+appendage to a Breton churchyard. It is
+the custom in Brittany, after a certain time, to dig
+up the bones of the dead, and preserve their skulls
+in little square boxes, like dog-kennels, with a
+heart-shaped opening through which the skull is
+<pb n="091"/><anchor id="Pg091"/>
+visible. They are all ticketed with the names and
+dates of the deceased, as "Ci g�t le chef de * * *
+D. c. D. (d�c�d�) le * * * * *. Priez Dieu pour
+son �me."</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 21. Skull-box.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image21.jpg">
+    <head>21. Skull-box.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>These boxes sometimes occupy prominent places
+inside the churches or porch, on window
+sills, the capitals of columns, and
+other ledges; but more often are
+ranged in the ossuaries or charnel-houses
+built in the churchyards to
+receive them, with a row of death's-heads
+carved in the stone outside.
+The large bones are also placed in the ossuaire. The
+rich are buried in "enfeux" or arched recesses in
+the chapels or abbeys they have founded.</p>
+
+<p>We continued our carriage to Lannion, our driver
+not very clear of his way, and in Brittany the road
+is very difficult to be discerned; for on each side
+are high earthen banks, sometimes eight or ten feet
+high, and on the top of these are planted timber-trees,
+such as oak, elm, and ash, which often meet
+at the top, entirely intercepting the view, making
+these narrow lanes a perfect slough and most intricate
+to thread. Sometimes they are cut in irregular
+steps in the solid rock, and serve for the bed
+of a stream. Each field is also surrounded by these
+hedgerow-trees, which are cut every four or five
+years.</p>
+<pb n="092"/><anchor id="Pg092"/>
+
+<p>We drove to Perros Guirec, a lovely little
+watering-place built on a small promontory with a
+safe harbour, whence wheat, hemp, and cattle are
+exported to England; it is six miles from Lannion.
+A dangerous rock, called Roche Bernard, is at its
+entrance. The view is lovely. From Perros we
+scrambled over a hilly cart-road to Ploumanach,
+about three miles distant&mdash;a wonderful spot, huge
+round erratic blocks of pink granite flung over land
+and sea in the wildest confusion. The whole coast
+is one sea of boulders, a chaos of rocks of all sizes
+cover the soil in every direction, and in many
+places there is no soil at all, and the loose masses
+rest on a bare bed of rock, stretching, in unbroken
+extent, to a great distance. "A wanderer," says
+Mr. Trollope, "amid this strange and silent scene
+might fancy himself the only living thing in the
+midst of a world turned to stone. In every possible
+variety of uncouth form and capricious, strange
+positions, the endless masses were around us."</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">All is rocks at random thrown,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone."</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl>
+ <author rend="smallcaps">Lord of the Isles</author>.
+</bibl></l></lg>
+
+<p>One rock, surrounded at high water by the tide,
+is a square block of red granite of thirty to forty
+feet high, placed on the top of a still higher mass,
+on which it rests upon a very small base. It is
+called the "Roche Pendue," and serves as a landmark
+<pb n="093"/><anchor id="Pg093"/>
+for the fishermen. We took a small boat
+full of fish resembling codlings or small cod, called
+"lieu," and were rowed by the fishermen through
+a sea of granite boulders to the opposite side of the
+Tr�gastel estuary, to see the "pierre pendue," or
+rocking-stone (Breton, <hi rend="italic">rouler</hi>), the largest in Brittany.
+These stones are so nicely poised that they
+can be moved with the <corr sic="slighest">slightest</corr> impulse by any one
+knowing the exact point at which to touch them.
+They were used in early times as proving-stones,
+and called "Pierres de verit�."</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l rend="right"><q rend="pre">Firm as it seems,</q></l>
+<l>Such is its strange and virtuous property,</l>
+<l>It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch</l>
+<l>Of him whose breast is pure; but to a traitor,</l>
+<l>Though e'en a giant's prowess nerved his arm,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">It stands as fixed as Snowdon.</q>
+&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Mason</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Or, as Sir Walter Scott alludes to them,&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l rend="margin-left: 2"><q rend="pre">Some, chance-poised and balanced, lay</q></l>
+<l>So that a stripling arm might sway</l>
+<l rend="margin-left: 2">A mass no host could raise,</l>
+<l>In nature's rage at random thrown,</l>
+<l>Yet trembling like the Druid's Stone,</l>
+<l rend="margin-left: 2"><q rend="post">On its precarious base.</q>
+&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Lord of the Isles.</author></bibl></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>The council of Nantes, in the seventh century,
+ordered the bishops to have the rocking-stones
+destroyed. The coarse rose-coloured granite of this
+coast resembles the Egyptian.</p>
+
+<p>We rowed back to the little inn at Ploumanach,
+<pb n="094"/><anchor id="Pg094"/>
+and had some eggs and a hot langouste or rock-lobster.
+This kind is more plentiful on the coast
+of Brittany than the common, but these rocky
+shores abound in both sorts. The village of Ploumanach
+is built nearly into the sea, in the midst of
+rocks overhanging the harbour. It is almost exclusively
+frequented by fishermen; in the front is a
+group of rocks or islands called Les Sept Iles; the
+Ile aux Moines, the most important among them,
+is strongly fortified, and is directly opposite Ploumanach.
+At the inn we found a German artist
+employed in making sketches in oil of this strange
+coast. It was late when we reached Lannion, a
+town prettily situated in the valley of Leguer; it
+contains no remarkable buildings except a few
+houses of the period of Henry IV. and Louis XIII.
+in the market-place. The mackerel and other
+fisheries are carried on from here, the grande and
+petite p�che, the "lieu" is taken in shoals and salted.
+The seaweed or wrack (<hi rend="italic">Fucus vesiculosus</hi>) called
+go�mon, is extensively collected along the coasts of
+Brittany for fertilising the lands and also for fuel,
+which last is so scarce that even cow-dung is collected
+and dried against the walls for the same use. The
+gathering of go�mon takes place in March and September,
+and employs the whole population of the
+district. Souvestre says, that on the appointed day
+for gathering the crop, horses, oxen, cows, dogs,
+<pb n="095"/><anchor id="Pg095"/>
+every animal, and every machine, is put into requisition.
+Women and children all are assembled in
+the bays, sometimes to the number of 10,000
+persons; but, to allow the poor to have the full
+advantage, the custom is, on the first day, to admit
+only the necessitous of the parish. These borrow
+their neighbours' vehicles, and collect a good crop.
+It is called "the day of the poor." The go�mon
+grows on rocks at a distance from the shore, and
+the peasants not having sufficient boats to collect it
+tie the heaps together with cords on to branches of
+trees and form a raft, on which the whole family is
+launched; a barrel is attached at the end, and the
+unsteady craft often rolls over and its cargo is
+precipitated into the water. The fine sands of the
+sea shore are also carted and laid on the heavy
+lands to divide the soil. Ascending the valley of
+the Leguer, about eight miles from Lannion, on the
+opposite side of the river, we turned down a muddy
+lane, and getting out into a field saw in front of us
+the imposing castle of Tonqu�dec, perhaps the
+finest remains in Brittany of military architecture,
+dating from the fourteenth century. It crowns the
+summit of a hill, wooded down to the river's edge,
+with water-mills and a little village at the foot, the
+bright sparkling river running through the deep
+wild valley; nothing can exceed the picturesque
+effect of these ruins when seen from the
+<pb n="096"/><anchor id="Pg096"/>
+opposite bank. Tonqu�dec has belonged from
+time immemorial to the Viscomtes de Co�tmen,
+who held the first rank among the nobles of
+Brittany, but one of them espousing the cause
+of the Constable Clisson against Duke John IV.
+saw his fortress demolished. It was restored under
+Henry IV., and again dismantled by order of
+Cardinal Richelieu, who hated castles and their
+nobility. The castle is an irregular four-sided
+figure. It had an outer enclosure, and was entered
+by a drawbridge, and furnished with every imaginable
+fortification. Three sides were surrounded
+by dwellings, among these a fine roofed salle d'armes
+remains. A flying bridge led to the keep, which
+was of four stories, but the entrance on the first
+story, so that in case of siege the garrison might
+retire to the keep, and hold out till want of provisions
+or ammunition compelled them to surrender.
+The towers and walls remain, the latter are ten feet
+thick.</p>
+
+<p>On our way to Plouaret we drove up to the
+ch�teau of Kergrist, a square edifice with pepper-box
+towers at each angle, in good preservation,
+occupied by a lady of the name of Douglas. Our
+driver could not find the way to the "Chapelle des
+Sept Saints," built over a dolmen, which lay near
+the station at Plouaret, whence we proceeded by
+rail, and, entering the department of Finist�re,
+<pb n="097"/><anchor id="Pg097"/>
+shortly after reached Morlaix over its magnificent
+granite viaduct, the most important among the
+many which occur between Rennes and Brest. The
+railway runs parallel to the coast, and traverses, not
+far from their mouths, the streams which abound
+in this "pays accident�." This gigantic work is
+one-sixth of a mile (292 yards) long, and consists
+of two tiers of arches, fourteen in the upper line
+and nine below.</p>
+
+<p>Morlaix is picturesquely built on the sides of
+three ravines, so steep that the saying goes, "De la
+mansarde au jardin, comme on dit � Morlaix." It is
+situated on a tidal river, about eight miles from the
+sea, ascended by small vessels, which give the place a
+lively appearance. Few towns have so many beautiful
+timbered houses of the fifteenth and sixteenth
+centuries remaining. One of the most curious is that
+belonging to a miller, No. 19, in the Rue des Nobles,
+a street where the houses are built one story projecting
+over the other, so that the top stories of the
+opposite houses nearly touch each other and exclude
+the light. The fronts, gable-shaped, have their
+enormous beams richly carved, and supported by
+brackets and statues of St. Yves or other favourite
+saints; some are overlaid with lozenge-shaped slates,
+and finished at the point with a leaden "�pi," or
+ornamental terminal. All have a kind of hall,
+panelled and sculptured to the roof, the staircases
+<pb n="098"/><anchor id="Pg098"/>
+richly sculptured and supported by a pillar carved
+from top to bottom with statues of saints or grotesque
+figures superposed one over the other.
+Among the statuettes in the house, No. 19, are the
+figures of St. Roch and his dog; St. Christopher
+carrying the infant Jesus, St. Michael, and various
+others. On another staircase, in better preservation,
+but not so richly carved (at the Veuve Perron's, No.
+14, Grande Rue), are female saints,&mdash;the Virgin, St.
+Catherine, and St. Barbara.</p>
+
+<p>Morlaix gave a grand reception to the Queen-Duchess
+Anne, when on her pilgrimage through
+Brittany in 1505. The town presented her with a
+little ship of gold, bearing the arms of the city, and
+enriched with precious stones, and a tame ermine
+with a diamond collar round its neck. Anne
+received the ermine, and caressed the little animal,
+who returned her endearments, and, at length,
+suddenly concealed itself in her bosom, which unexpected
+proceeding startled the Queen, when the
+Seigneur du Rohan, who was by her side, exclaimed,
+"What do you fear, madam; is not the
+ermine your cognisance?" No less enthusiastic
+was the reception given by the citizens of Morlaix
+forty years later (1548) to Mary Stuart, then only
+five years old, on her landing in France. She was
+lodged in the convent of the Jacobins, and assisted
+at the Te Deum in the church of Notre Dame-du-Mur.
+<pb n="099"/><anchor id="Pg099"/>
+When passing through one of the gates
+on her way back, the drawbridge, overloaded with
+spectators, gave way, and several persons were
+thrown into the water. Mary's Scottish attendants
+cried out "Treason!" but the Seigneur de Rohan,
+who was on horseback by the side of the royal
+litter, indignantly exclaimed, "Jamais Breton ne
+fit trahison." The loyalty and good faith of the
+Bretons is proverbial. "En tout chemin, loyaut�,"
+is a Breton motto,<note place="foot">E pess h�nt lealdet!</note>
+and it is one of the virtues attributed
+to them by a Breton writer, who assigns to
+them four virtues and three vices. Their virtues
+consist in a love of their country and their home,
+resignation to the will of the Almighty, loyalty to
+each other, and hospitality. Their vices are avarice,
+contempt for women, and drunkenness. Their love
+of country and home is carried to an extent,
+rivalling, if not exceeding, that of the Swiss. The
+Breton not only loves the village where he was
+born, but he loves the field of his fathers, the
+hearth and the clock of his home, even the bed on
+which he was born, and on which he hopes to close
+his eyes. The conscript and sailor are often known
+to die of grief when away from their native land.
+Brittany possesses for its children an inconceivable
+attraction, and there is no country in the
+<pb n="100"/><anchor id="Pg100"/>
+world where man is more attached to his native
+soil.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">O landes! � for�ts! pierres sombres et hautes,</q></l>
+<l>Bois qui couvrez nos champs, mers qui battez nos c�tes,</l>
+<l>Villages o� les morts errent avec les vents,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Bretagne, d'o� vient l'amour de tes enfants?</q>
+&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux.</author></bibl></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>The Bretons are brave soldiers and good sailors;
+their disposition is hasty and violent, and even
+ferocious in anger. When the people of Nantes
+rose up in rebellion against Duke Francis, his
+brother-in-law, the Comte du Foix, sent to pacify
+them, said to him on his return from his mission,
+"J'aimerais mieux �tre prince d'un million de
+sangliers que de tel peuple que sont vos Bretons"&mdash;Brittany
+has always been the theatre of great virtues
+and great crimes.</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday we went to the Welsh Baptist Chapel,
+to hear Mr. Jenkins preach in the Breton language.
+He has been there thirty years zealously labouring
+among the peasants, to convert whom he was sent
+by the Welsh Baptist Missionary Society. From
+his thorough knowledge of the French and Breton
+languages, he is eminently fitted for the task. He
+travels about the surrounding country preaching,
+and establishing schools, and has revised the Breton<note
+place="foot">By L�gonedec.</note>
+translation of the New Testament for the Society,
+and circulated, by means of colporteurs, from eight
+<pb n="101"/><anchor id="Pg101"/>
+to nine thousand Bibles, besides above 100,000
+tracts. The task of acquiring the Breton language
+is less difficult for a Welshman, for the similarity
+between them is so great that the two people are
+able to make themselves understood to each other.
+The labours of Mr. Jenkins have lately awakened the
+attention of the Breton Roman Catholic clergy, who
+have publicly denounced him from their altars, but
+without causing him to slacken in the good work
+he has undertaken. Persecuted by a tyrannical
+priesthood, who hold dominion over a peasantry
+bigoted in proportion to their ignorance, his position
+is one of difficulty and danger; but he goes
+on with undrooping energy, convinced that, though
+the progress is slow, the good seed has not been
+sown in vain, and will, in due time, bear fruit,
+though those who first sowed it may have passed
+away. There were about a dozen Bretons at the
+evening service; they seemed to be constantly
+going in and out, as if unable to keep up their
+attention to so long a service. There are also
+English Protestant chapels at Morlaix and Quimper,
+and French at Brest and Lorient.</p>
+
+<p>We saw a christening in the cathedral, of a child
+about eighteen months old; the mother wore a
+wonderful conical cap of lace.</p>
+
+<p>A few houses from our hotel a ball was going on,
+given every week for the workpeople of the town.
+<pb n="102"/><anchor id="Pg102"/>
+The clatter of their iron-pointed wooden shoes
+seemed quite to drown the music.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we walked to the Fontaine des Anglais,
+so-called from the slaughter of a body of English
+at that place. Jealous of the prosperity of Morlaix,
+Henry VIII. sent a fleet up the river to attack the
+place, and the commander, being informed by a
+spy of the absence of the chief nobles at Guingamp,
+and of the townsmen at the fair of Pontivy, landed
+with a force which entered Morlaix, burnt it, and
+returned laden with booty to their boats. Six or
+seven hundred men, who were intoxicated, fell
+asleep in the wood, where they were attacked by the
+nobles, who had hastened from Guingamp to
+the assistance of the town, and were all massacred.
+The neighbouring fountain, said to have been
+tinged with the invaders' blood, received in memory
+of the event the name of "Fontaine des Anglais."
+It was on this occasion the town of Morlaix added
+to its arms, a lion (emblem of vigilance), encountering
+a two-headed leopard (for England), with the
+punning motto, "S'ils te mordent, mors-les"
+(Morlaix).</p>
+
+<p>Emile Souvestre, author of 'Le Foyer Breton,'
+and 'Les Derniers Bretons,' the ablest portrayer of
+Breton manners, customs, and superstitions, was a
+native of Morlaix; he died in the Protestant Communion,
+1854.</p>
+<pb n="103"/><anchor id="Pg103"/>
+
+<p>We were recommended to sail down the Morlaix
+River to its mouth, as the scenery is very picturesque,
+but we had not time to effect it. The
+great beauty of Brittany generally consists in its
+river scenery, the Rance, to Dinan; the rivers of
+Quimper and Quimperl�; the Aven, Elorn, and
+Blavet, are all highly picturesque and worth visiting.
+Our next drive was to St. Pol de L�on, partly along
+the bank of the river, passing under the church of
+Notre Dame-de-la-Salzette and the convent below
+of St. Fran�ois. The tall steeples of St. Pol are
+seen at a great distance, and looking behind is the
+best view of the Men�-Br�, an insulated conical
+mountain, one of the Men�-Arr� chain, situated
+near the station of Belle-Isle-B�gard. A chain of
+mountains runs through the C�tes-du-Nord, and, at
+the western end of the department, forks off into
+two branches which traverse the whole of Finist�re,&mdash;the
+Men�-Arr�, or northern chain, and the Montagnes
+Noires, or southern.</p>
+
+<p>St. Pol looks like a town of the Middle Ages.
+"The holy city," as it is called by the L�onnais,
+one of the four bishoprics<note place="foot">St. Pol de L�on,
+Cornouaille, Vannes et Tr�guier.</note> into which Brittany was
+divided, comprising the modern districts of Morlaix
+and Brest. The Pays de L�on is remarkable for
+<pb n="104"/><anchor id="Pg104"/>
+the number of its religious monuments, its fine
+churches, its bone-houses, calvaries, way-side crosses,
+and shrines. Crosses are set up in every direction,
+and of every description, from the plain unpretending
+simple cross of wood or stone, to the huge
+crosses flaunting in green paint, with tears of gold&mdash;specimens
+of the taste of the maire or priest of
+the district. No Breton passes the sacred symbol
+without kneeling to salute it, and making the sign
+of the cross&mdash;evidence that the piety of those who
+first raised them has not degenerated in their
+posterity. The country is rich and varied. The
+L�onnais is tallest of all the Breton race; his dress is
+generally black or blue, with a coloured scarf round
+his waist, his hair is worn very long, and his broad-brimmed
+hat has a silver buckle.  He is grave,
+of a calm confiding faith, which nothing can shake
+or alter, and of intense religious feeling.  The
+church is the place of meeting, where all his business
+is transacted, all his aspirations centered.
+Throughout Brittany the priesthood are low and
+ignorant. Like the Irish, the Breton farmer's
+great ambition is to make his son a priest. In no
+part of France are they more uneducated than in
+Brittany.</p>
+
+<p>St. Pol is still and melancholy, the grass grows
+in the streets, the city looks as if it had not
+awakened since its palmy days of the fourteenth
+<pb n="105"/><anchor id="Pg105"/>
+century. Its churches, <corr sic="calvarys">calvaries</corr>, cemeteries, all
+silent as death&mdash;</p>
+
+<p rend="small; text-align:center"><q>A deep,
+still pool in the ocean of life.</q></p>
+
+<p>Its lively neighbour, Morlaix, offers a strange contrast:
+its inhabitants may well say they are three
+hundred years in advance of St. Pol.</p>
+
+<p>The pride of St. Pol de L�on is the church of
+Notre Dame-de-Creizker. Its steeple, nearly 400 feet
+high, was said by Vauban to be the boldest piece of
+architecture he ever beheld. It is built in the centre
+of the church, entirely of granite, cut in the shape of
+tiles and open work, to within eighty feet from the
+base. According to the legend, on the spot where
+the church now stands, there lived in the time of
+St. G�n�vroc, a young girl, whom the saint found,
+when passing her house on the f�te of our Lady,
+employed at her needle. He reproached her gently
+with her impiety, yet she went on sewing, saying
+"she required food on Sundays as well as on work
+days." But the girl has hardly finished speaking,
+when all her body became cold and motionless as
+a stone. She was completely paralysed. Asking
+pardon of St. G�n�vroc, he made the sign of the
+cross upon each of her limbs, and the power of
+motion returned. Grateful for her recovery, she
+gave to the saint, her house, which was situated in
+the middle of the town (as its name implies), as a
+<pb n="106"/><anchor id="Pg106"/>
+site for his church. It is said to have been built by
+an English architect, invited to Brittany by Mary
+Plantagenet, daughter of Edward III., and first wife
+of Duke John IV.<note place="foot">
+His second wife was also English, Jane Holland, half-sister
+of Richard II.; his third, Joan, daughter of Charles the Bad,
+King of Navarre, who afterwards married Henry IV. of
+England.</note></p>
+
+<p>The axis of the nave is inclined to the left, a
+mystic allusion to the position of the head of the
+expiring Saviour on the cross. <hi rend="italic">Et inclinato capite,
+emise spiritum</hi>, "And He bowed his head, and gave
+up the ghost." The north porch of the Creizker is
+beautifully sculptured with leaves of the mallow, the
+vine, and mulberry. It was all under repair when
+we saw it.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 22. The Creizker.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image22.jpg">
+    <head>22. The <corr sic="Creisker">Creizker</corr>.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The cathedral has two fine towers with spires, and
+a magnificent rose window of the fifteenth century
+in the south transept, with, above, the "fen�tre
+d'excommunication." The fine porch, lightly and
+delicately sculptured, is surmounted by a balustrade,
+whence the episcopal benediction was given. Over
+the high altar is a large wooden crosier, gilt, from
+which to suspend the ciborium, similar to that we
+saw in the cathedral of Dol. A black marble slab,
+at the foot of the steps of the high altar, marks the
+grave of St. Pol de L�on, who died 570. St. Pol,
+the patron bishop and founder of the cathedral, was
+<pb n="107"/><anchor id="Pg107"/>
+<pb n="108"/><anchor id="Pg108"/>
+<pb n="109"/><anchor id="Pg109"/>
+one of the clergy of Great Britain who emigrated
+to Brittany in the sixth century; he landed in the
+island of Ou�ssant, and passed on to the country of
+L�on, where he founded a monastery. The island
+of Batz was, at that time, infested by an enormous
+dragon, sixty feet long; the saint, accompanied by
+a warrior, entered the cavern of the monster, tied
+his stole round its neck, and gave him to his companion
+to lead, St. Pol following, beating him with
+his stick, till they arrived at the extremity of the
+island, when he took off the stole, and commanded
+the dragon to throw itself in the sea, an order the
+animal immediately obeyed. St. Pol is always represented
+with the dragon by his side, the stole round
+its neck. We were shown a little bell, said to have
+belonged to the saint. It appears he had repeatedly
+asked the king to give him this bell for his new
+church, but had always been refused. When one
+day some fishermen brought him a large fish taken
+off the island of Batz, and in its mouth was the
+coveted bell. It is certainly very ancient in form,
+a kind of square pyramid about four inches wide
+and nine high, of beaten red copper mixed, we were
+told, with a considerable quantity of silver. It is
+now rung over the heads of the faithful on pardons,
+as a specific against headache and earache&mdash;a singular
+remedy! The cathedral has a fine marble tomb
+of Bishop Visdelou, preacher to Queen Anne of
+<pb n="110"/><anchor id="Pg110"/>
+Austria; he is represented in a half reclining posture,
+in his pontifical garments. In every part of the
+cathedral are the little boxes of skulls.</p>
+
+<p>Adjacent is the Ursuline convent, where is preserved
+a small figure of the Virgin in jet; brought
+from a church in the Iles Sainte Marguerite, taken
+from the Spaniards in the seventeenth century. It
+is supposed to possess miraculous powers, and is
+sent round to the sick as a specific.</p>
+
+<p>We breakfasted at the little inn (H�tel de
+France), commanding a pretty view of the coast
+from its windows and garden. The L�on country
+was governed by Viscounts, who boasted, among
+several manorial rights, the "droit de motte," which
+empowered them, if a vassal (they were "serfs de
+motte") attempted to live out of his demesne, or to
+enter the service of another lord, to bring him back
+to his "motte," a cord round his neck, and inflict
+upon him corporal punishment. By virtue of the
+same right, if the demesne of a lord was so placed
+that it had no natural height from which to survey
+its extent, his vassals were made to bring sufficient
+cart-loads of earth to raise a mound or "motte" of
+the requisite elevation. The other privilege was the
+droit de "bris," equivalent to our flotsum and jetsum,
+so lucrative that a L�on Viscount is recorded to have
+said, when a noble was exhibiting his casket of gems,
+that he possessed a jewel more precious than all
+<pb n="111"/><anchor id="Pg111"/>
+they were admiring&mdash;alluding to a rock famous for
+its shipwrecks. Duke John the Red, taking advantage
+of the misdeeds of one of these lords of L�on,
+seized his rich possessions and united them (1276) to
+the crown. The viscounty of L�on fell by alliance,
+in the fourteenth century, to the house of Rohan,
+in whose favour is was raised in the sixteenth to a
+principality.</p>
+
+<p>We continued our drive to Roscoff, three miles
+distant, a little sea-port town, formerly one of the
+three great dens of corsairs and smugglers, all under
+the protection of St. Barbe,&mdash;the other two being
+Camaret and Le Conquet. Roscoff was the emporium
+of considerable contraband trade with England. Tea,
+wine, and brandy were brought over in small casks,
+which the smugglers tied together and threw into
+the sea, when near the coast, and landed at night.
+The whole country round is now one extent of
+kitchen-garden, the light sandy soil, dressed with
+the go�mon, produces an incredible quantity of
+vegetables, onions, cabbages, parsnips, asparagus, artichokes,
+cauliflowers, &amp;c. Of onions, 2,000,000 lbs.
+are said to be sent every year to England alone.
+The people here wear black caps, those of the men
+are stocking-knit. The gardeners of Roscoff will
+carry their produce above a hundred miles for sale.
+The chief vegetable consumed by the Bretons
+themselves is the cabbage, of which the quantity
+<pb n="112"/><anchor id="Pg112"/>
+raised is enormous. The kind grown is mostly the
+Jersey or cow-cabbage, which grows with stalks
+from five to six feet high, and has large leaves at
+every joint. They use them for their cattle, as
+well as for their own eating. Avenues of cabbages,
+stacked five or six feet high, are to be seen in most
+Breton markets. Bread or porridge of buckwheat
+(bl� noir) with cabbage-soup is the customary diet
+of the country. The recipe is simple, consisting of a
+cabbage-leaf, over which a little hot water is thrown,
+and a "soup�on" of butter added to give it a
+flavour. These ingredients compose the national
+soup which always appears at the t�ble d'h�te, with
+the inevitable "rago�t," <hi rend="italic">i. e.</hi> harricoed mutton.
+
+The little town of Roscoff has some historic
+importance. It was here that John de Montfort
+sailed to England to do homage to King Edward III.
+for the duchy of Brittany, and returned by the same
+port. Here also the child-princess Mary Stuart
+landed in 1548 to marry the young Dauphin, afterwards
+Francis II. In commemoration of the event,
+she afterwards caused the little chapel of St. Ninian
+to be built close on the water's edge. It is not more
+than fifty feet long, and has an eastern flamboyant
+window, with others in the side walls. The
+arches are fast going to decay, the stone altar is
+also sculptured. When we saw it, the interior was
+filled with bundles of broom-branches and poultry.
+<pb n="113"/><anchor id="Pg113"/>
+It is strange this little chapel, built by the Queen of
+two Kingdoms, should be suffered to fall to ruin for
+the lack of a trifling outlay.</p>
+
+<p>Here, two hundred years later, Prince Charles
+Stuart landed after Culloden, in the French frigate
+the 'Heureux,' sent by the French Government
+to facilitate his escape, having eluded, through the
+chances of a fog, the pursuit of the English cruisers;
+and here he knelt, in the chapel of his ancestress, to
+return thanks for his deliverance.</p>
+
+<p>The church of Roscoff has a curious pierced
+steeple, like many of those in Finist�re, and some
+alabaster bas-reliefs of the fourteenth century, with
+numerous boxes of skulls. A ship rudely sculptured
+by the porch, and another by the east window, show
+that the fishermen and ship-owners contributed to
+the building of the church. By the shore is a rock
+of grotesque form, and opposite, about three miles
+from Roscoff, is the pretty island of Batz, which
+derives its name&mdash;Breton "batz," a stick&mdash;from the
+rod used by St. Pol de L�on to work his miracle.</p>
+
+<p>People were busily employed in boats collecting
+the go�mon, which they pile in heaps along the
+shore. The great curiosity of Roscoff is its enormous
+fig-tree, in the garden of the Capucine convent,
+said to be two centuries old. It is supported by
+stone pillars, and is, we were informed, above 300 feet
+in circumference.</p>
+<pb n="114"/><anchor id="Pg114"/>
+
+<p>We returned that evening to Morlaix: the viaduct
+by moonlight had a most picturesque appearance.
+Next morning we proceeded by rail to the station
+of St. Th�gonnec, where nothing in the shape of a
+vehicle was to be had to convey us to the town&mdash;nearly
+a mile and a half distant&mdash;but the ricketty
+two-wheeled mail cart. At the little cabaret, which
+bears the important name of H�tel de la Grande
+Maison, we procured breakfast. The church has
+been restored. It is rich in carvings, spoiled by
+gilding, the altars and canopied pulpit especially.
+Opposite to the last are two coloured "retables."
+The high altar, with two side altars and two smaller
+ones behind, are gorgeously carved, coloured and
+gilt, and extend to the roof. The painted-glass
+windows are the gifts of various persons. At the
+entrance of the churchyard is a Renaissance porch,
+or triumphal arch, dated 1581, with a sculpture
+representing St. Th�gonnec, a bullock and car by
+his side. Adjoining, is the ossuary, or reliquary,
+bearing the date 1676, also in the same elaborate
+style, destitute of bones, but having below a crypt
+containing a group of life-sized figures representing
+the Entombment, with this inscription:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Tu le vois mort, p�cheur, ce Dieu qui t'a fait na�tre:</q></l>
+<l>Sa mort est ton ouvrage, et devient ton appui.</l>
+<l><q rend="post">A ce trait de bont�, tu dois au moins vivre pour lui.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>In the churchyard is also a calvary; the name given
+<pb n="115"/><anchor id="Pg115"/>
+to those monumental sculptures peculiar to Brittany,
+consisting of the crucifix, surrounded by the chief
+witnesses of the crucifixion, together with minor
+groups representing passages in the life of our
+Saviour. This calvary, executed in Kersanton
+stone, is dated 1610; the numerous figures are all
+in the grotesque costume of the period, with ruffs,
+toquets, trained gowns, and scalloped jackets.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 23. Calvary, Guimiliau.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image23.jpg">
+    <head>23. Calvary, Guimiliau.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>We took a carriage for Guimiliau, passing on our
+road to the left, a grotto. The church of Guimiliau
+partly dates from the Renaissance; it has a finely
+sculptured porch, and contains within carvings of
+great beauty; the pulpit, supported on a column, is
+dated 1677; the organ-loft is enriched with splendid
+bas-reliefs in oak panels,&mdash;one represents a triumphal
+march, after Le Brun, the others, King David and
+St. Cecilia. But the grand monumental carving is
+the magnificent baptistery or baptismal font, surmounted
+by a baldachin or canopy, supported by
+eight twisted columns interlaced with vines, grapes
+and flowers, with graceful little birds pecking the
+fruit. On the top of the canopy is a dolphin, and
+above, two figures of Fame, trumpet-mouthed, surmounted
+by a royal crown and the letters S. V. This
+baptistery and the organ-loft are both in the style
+of Louis XIV., and are said to have cost 30,000 francs.
+In the churchyard are a triumphal arch and a reliquary,
+both inferior to those of St. Th�gonnec, but
+<pb n="116"/><anchor id="Pg116"/>
+the calvary of Guimiliau is one of the most extensive
+in Brittany. It is of the sixteenth century.
+It consists of a solid platform, ascended by a staircase,
+and raised upon arches; upon it, sculptured in
+Kersanton stone, are the three crosses, the centre
+one beautifully carved with St. John and the Virgin
+<pb n="117"/><anchor id="Pg117"/>
+Mary by the side. The four Evangelists are placed
+at each corner, and all the passages in the life of
+Christ are represented by groups of little figures in
+the costume of the sixteenth century. This singular
+monument bears two different dates, those of 1581
+and 1588.</p>
+
+<p>Guimiliau is close to the railway, but there is no
+station there. We returned to St. Th�gonnec. The
+peasants along the road were threshing their buckwheat
+on the open ground; women as well as men
+were at work. They threshed in a circle, keeping
+good time with their strokes, and laughing merrily
+while they flourished their flails,&mdash;they appeared a
+most joyous party,&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Ho! batteux, battons la gerbe,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Compagnons, joyeusement.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Buckwheat, their "bl� noir," is the Breton's chief
+food, and is cultivated to a large extent. With its
+coral-red stalks and snowy flowers it has a very
+pretty appearance growing, and is the first care of
+the Breton farmer&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Ah! que la sombre nue aux funestes lueurs,</q></l>
+<l rend="margin-left:2">Planant sur la campagne,</l>
+<l>Epargne les bl�s-noirs, les bl�s aux blanches fleurs,</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:2"><q rend="post">Ce pain de la Bretagne."</q>
+&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">St�phane Halgan</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>This plant, a native of Asia Minor, was evidently,
+from its French name, "sarrazin," introduced into
+Europe by the Saracens or Moors. We proceeded
+<pb n="118"/><anchor id="Pg118"/>
+by rail to Brest, passing under the foot of the abrupt
+rock upon which stand the picturesque ruins of the
+ancient castle of La Roche Maurice and the church
+of La Roche. The rail runs along the banks of the
+Elorn through a narrow wooded valley; the windings
+of the river are very picturesque, and formerly a
+steamer ran from Landerneau to Brest, affording the
+opportunity of seeing them.</p>
+
+<p>Brest, the first harbour in France, is Breton only
+in name and locality; it is built in an amphitheatre
+on the slopes of two hills divided by the river Penfeld,
+which forms the port. On the right is the
+suburb Recouvrance, on the left Brest proper. This
+irregular site often causes the second floor of the
+houses in one street to be on a line with the ground
+floor of another. Brest is clean and well built, and
+consists of three long parallel streets. The principal
+one, called the Rue de Siam, in commemoration of
+the Siamese Ambassadors sent to Louis XIV., who
+landed here, runs the whole length of the town,
+ending at the fine iron bridge called the Pont
+Imp�riale, the largest swing-bridge ever constructed.
+You descend by a flight of steps from
+the Rue de Siam to the lower streets. Running
+along the bay, of considerable extent, and well
+planted with trees, is the magnificent promenade
+called the Cours d'Ajot, from the name of the
+officer of the Engineers by whom it was laid out
+<pb n="119"/><anchor id="Pg119"/>
+and planted a century back. Well sheltered by its
+trees and refreshed by the sea breezes, it commands
+a fine view over the new "port de commerce," and
+the whole extent of the harbour of Brest, which is
+capable of containing 500 ships of the line, and
+is, with the exception of those of Rio Janeiro
+and Constantinople, the largest and most beautiful
+in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Brest harbour has only one entrance, which is
+to the west, through a narrow channel called Le
+Goulet, less than a mile in width, and cut into two
+by the Mingant rock. In the year 1796 the 'Republican'
+was lost here. Sailing out of the harbour,
+with a contrary wind and snow, the pilot thought
+he had passed the Mingant rock, when the ship
+struck, and went down with 800 men on board.
+Brest Castle in the Middle Ages was a place of such
+strength and importance that John IV., who had
+four times besieged it fruitlessly, when it was under
+the English dominion, was wont to say "Ce n'est
+duc de Bretagne, qui n'est pas sire de Brest." It
+had been held by Sir Robert Knolles against the
+army of the King of France under Du Guesclin,
+who was obliged to raise the siege. The donjon
+was built by King Richard II. during the War of
+Succession. The making Brest an important naval
+station was the thought of Richelieu, and the work
+of Louis XIV., who built the arsenal.</p>
+<pb n="120"/><anchor id="Pg120"/>
+
+<p>Next day we made an excursion to see the church
+of Notre Dame-du-Folgo�t or the Fool of the Wood,
+celebrated in legendary lore: the tale is so old and
+often told, we have some scruples in repeating it.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the middle of the fourteenth century,
+there lived in the woods of Lesneven, a poor idiot
+boy, called Salaun (Solomon), better known under
+the name of the Fool of the Wood (Folgo�t). He
+was miserably clad, had no bed but the ground; no
+pillow, but a stone; no roof, but the tree which
+gave him shelter. He went every day to Lesneven
+to seek his daily bread, but he never begged; he
+uttered the simple words "Ave Maria! Solomon
+could eat bread," and returned with whatever pittance
+was given him to his tree near the fountain, into
+which he dipped his crusts, and plunged even in
+the depth of winter, for his bath, always repeating
+the words, "Hail, Maria!"  One day a party of
+marauding soldiers accosted him. In answer to their
+questions, he replied, "I am neither for Blois nor
+Montfort, I am the servant of the Lady Mary."
+This simple life he led for nearly forty years, when
+at last he fell ill and died, repeating his favourite
+words "Ave Maria." He was found dead near the
+fountain, and was buried by his neighbours. After
+a time, when the memory of the poor idiot boy had
+nearly passed away, there suddenly sprung up from
+his grave a white lily with the words "Ave Maria"
+<pb n="121"/><anchor id="Pg121"/>
+inscribed in letters of gold upon its petals. The
+news of the miracle spread throughout all Brittany,
+Duke John sent commissioners; the grave was
+opened, and it was found the lily proceeded from
+the mouth of Salaun,&mdash;"ceste royale fleur sortait
+par sa bouche du creux de son estomach"&mdash;a testimony
+of the innocence and piety "du plus beau
+mignon de la reine des Cieux." Duke John vowed
+to erect a church to our Lady over the fountain of
+the poor mendicant, whose faith had been thus recognised;<note place="foot">
+"Venu au monde � l'�poque o� naissait Bertrand Du
+Guesclin, enlev� au ciel � l'�poque du combat des Trente,
+Salaun fit moins de bruit sur la terre que le c�l�bre Conn�table
+ou que les braves compagnons de Beaumanoir. Son corps
+ne fut pas transport� en pompe royale � S. Denis, pour y
+reposer au milieu des souverains; aucun ob�lisque ne rappelle
+sa m�moire: mais sur son humble tombe on a construit un
+monument qui fire vivre son nom dans la suite des si�cles. C'est
+que Salaun, loin de chercher l'agitation des combats, ne demande
+que le calme de la pri�re. Il choisit la meilleure part, et il ne
+fut pas ot�e."&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Pol de Courcy.</author></bibl></note>
+and, faithful to his promise, the first
+stone was laid by him in 1366, as a thank-offering
+for his success the previous year at the battle of
+Auray, which had fixed the crown upon his head.
+His wife, Joan of Navarre, not only made a pilgrimage
+to the Folgo�t in 1396, but also contributed
+to the building of the church. It was
+completed by John V., about 1419. The Queen-Duchess
+Anne of Brittany went there in pilgrimage
+<pb n="122"/><anchor id="Pg122"/>
+after the recovery from illness of Louis XIII. Anne
+of Austria founded six masses at the Folgo�t, in
+gratitude for the birth of Louis XIV., and several
+popes granted indulgences to those who made
+pilgrimages to this shrine. This church is one of
+the finest in Brittany. Its colour is sombre; it
+is the oldest monument in Brittany in which the
+Kersanton stone is employed.  This stone is a
+volcanic rock called hornblende, of very fine grain,
+with minute specks of mica. There is a large quarry
+near St. Pol de L�on; but it is found principally on
+the west of the harbour of Brest, near a village from
+which it takes its name. Kersanton stone is of a
+dark-green colour, approaching to bronze, gives
+out a metallic sound when struck, and is easily
+worked in the quarry, in blocks of from twenty to
+forty feet cube, but hardens on exposure to the air.
+Time has no destructive effect on it; the most
+delicate, lightest, and most ornamental sculptures
+executed in it remain uninjured, while the hardest
+granites, erected at the same time, are friable and
+decomposed. The Kersanton stone cuts glass like
+a diamond.</p>
+
+<p>The architecture of the Folgo�t is distinguished
+for the elegance and richness of its ornamentation:
+the softness of the Kersanton stone, when fresh
+taken from the quarry fits it specially for the deeply
+cut, lace-like works of the artists of the flamboyant
+<pb n="123"/><anchor id="Pg123"/>
+school, and the church is remarkable for the skill
+with which the productions of the vegetable kingdom
+are represented both within and without. It has no
+transepts, but to the south is a projection formed
+by the treasure chamber. The modern pulpit has a
+series of medallion bas-reliefs representing the legend
+of Solomon.</p>
+
+<p>The jub�, or roodloft, is a perfect lacework of
+stone. Above three arches, decorated with vine-leaves,
+is an open-worked gallery of pierced quatre-foils
+surpassing in exuberance of ornament any other
+known.</p>
+
+<p>To the east are five altars, all of Kersanton stone,
+most delicately sculptured&mdash;the under-cutting of
+the foliage most wonderful. They are in the shape
+of tombs or sarcophagi, the form generally adopted
+for altars in the sixteenth century. Round the
+"autel des anges," richest of them all, is a row of
+eighteen niches, filled in with the figures of angels,
+holding alternately phylacteries and escutcheons;
+round the top is a cornice of thistle-leaves&mdash;on the
+cut stalk of one hangs a dew-drop perfect to nature.</p>
+
+<p>The high altar is decorated with vine-leaves, birds
+pecking the grapes, and the ermine, with its motto
+"� ma vie," introduced. The altar of the rosary
+has also a cornice of vine-leaves modelled evidently
+after the high altar.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 24. The Fool's Well, Folgo�t.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image24.jpg">
+    <head>24. The Fool's Well, Folgo�t.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The fine flamboyant rose window at the east of
+<pb n="124"/><anchor id="Pg124"/>
+the church resembles that of St. Pol de L�on, and
+below it is the fountain of Salaun. The spring is
+concealed under the high altar, and flows into a
+basin without, preserved by a kind of Gothic porch
+sculptured with thistle-leaves and crockets, and
+within it, on a bracket, is a delicately chiseled image
+of the Virgin. Some children round the fountain
+<pb n="125"/><anchor id="Pg125"/>
+offered us pins, the use of which we did not understand.
+We afterwards learned that it is the custom
+in Brittany for girls to take a pin from their bodice,
+and throw it into a sacred well, to ascertain, by its
+manner of sinking, when they would be married.
+If the pin falls head foremost, then there is no
+present hope of matrimony, but if the point goes
+first, it is a sure sign of being married that year.</p>
+
+<p>On the new year, in some parts of Brittany, pieces
+of bread-and-butter are thrown into the fountains,
+and from the way in which they swim the future is
+foretold. If the buttered side turns under, it forebodes
+death; if two pieces adhere together, it is a
+sign of sickness; and if the piece floats, it is an
+assurance of long life and happiness.</p>
+
+<p>The veneration for springs and healing wells is
+of very ancient date, and was prohibited by early
+councils of the Church; but the worship of that
+element from which suffering humanity seeks for
+relief in all its ailments has passed through succeeding
+creeds, and that which was held sacred a thousand
+years back is still the object of reverence and
+affection.</p>
+
+<p>Nor is the sculpture outside the church less remarkable
+than the interior. The west door, now
+fallen to decay, has an arch with double entrance
+separated by a column containing a b�nitier. A
+wreath of curled leaves runs round the arch, and on
+<pb n="126"/><anchor id="Pg126"/>
+a bracket of thistle-leaves formerly stood a statue of
+John V.</p>
+
+<p>The north side has little ornament. The great
+richness is in the south, where is the fine porch of
+Bishop Alain de la Rue, who consecrated the building,
+and more splendid still, is, at the angle formed
+by the projecting sacristy facing the west, the Porch
+of the Apostles. The twelve Apostles are ranged on
+each side, under rich canopies; the whole porch one
+mass of floral decoration, vine-leaves and mallows,
+interspersed with dragons, birds, and insects. On
+the right of the porch is a crouching figure with a
+label inscribed: "Bn soiez venz,"&mdash;"Bien soiez
+venuz" or "Soyez les bien venus"&mdash;an invitation
+to the faithful to enter into the church. On the
+lintel of the two doors are ermines passant, and the
+motto of the Dukes of Brittany, "� ma vie," and
+towards the south are the remains of a whole cornice
+of ermines, running through the rings of a long scroll
+inscribed with "� ma vie." This motto was first
+taken by Duke John IV. (who instituted the order
+of the Ermine) to imply that he had conquered
+Brittany, and would maintain it, even at the cost of
+his life, "� ma vie."<note place="foot">
+Duke Francis I. subsequently united the order of the
+Ermine with that of the "Epi;" and the collar was then composed
+of ears of corn, with an ermine pendant, and the motto
+of Duke John.</note></p>
+<pb n="127"/><anchor id="Pg127"/>
+
+<p>The collar consisted of a double chain, in each of
+which were four ermines, and two more hung suspended
+from two chains, surmounted by coronets.
+The motto "� ma vie" was placed round each of
+these ten ermines. The P�re Lobineau quotes a
+history of Duke John, in which the order is thus
+spoken of:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Lors fit mander tous les Pr�lats,</q></l>
+<l>Abb�s et Clercs de tous Estats,</l>
+<l>Barons, Chevaliers, Escuyers,</l>
+<l>Qui tous portoient nouveaux Colliers</l>
+<l>De moult bel port et belle guise;</l>
+<l>Et �toit nouvelle D�vise</l>
+<l>De deux Rolets brunis et beaux,</l>
+<l>Coupl�s ensemble de deux fermeaux;</l>
+<l>Et au dessus �toit l'Ermine</l>
+<l>En figure et en couleur fine,</l>
+<l>En deux Cedules avoit escript</l>
+<l><hi rend="italic">� ma vie</hi>, comme j'ai dit;</l>
+<l>L'un mot est blanc, l'autre noir,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Il est certain, tien, pour le voir.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>In the churchyard is a cross erected by Cardinal
+de Co�tivy (died 1474), who is represented kneeling
+at the foot; it is said to be the work of Michel
+Colomb, sculptor of the celebrated monument raised
+by Queen Anne of Brittany to her parents, now
+in the Cathedral at Nantes. Next day, we went
+to Le Conquet, returning by St. Mathieu. We
+crossed the swing-bridge to the suburb Recouvrance,
+so called from the chapel of our Lady, to whom
+<pb n="128"/><anchor id="Pg128"/>
+shipwrecked mariners addressed their petitions to
+recover (recouvrir) their property. On our left we
+saw the islet rock of Bertheaume, about 200 feet
+high, distant from the coast 150. Until lately, the
+communication with the mainland was by means of
+a kind of cradle drawn on two cables, about nine
+m�tres in circumference.</p>
+
+<p>Le Conquet<note place="foot">
+The word <hi rend="italic">cong</hi>, in ancient Breton, means a basin surrounded
+by quays, to receive and protect vessels from wind and
+sea&mdash;as Conquet, Concarneau, or Cong-kernay.</note>
+is a little seaport built on the slope
+of a steep hill. Formerly it was of some importance,
+and a great resort of pirates. Sir Walter Manny
+took the town for the Countess of Montfort, during
+the war of the two Jeannes, and it was attacked by
+the fleets of Henry VIII. and his daughter Mary.
+Opposite is a beautiful beach, called the Blancs
+Sablons, accessible at low water by walking across
+the harbour. Here is the point of communication
+with the island of Ou�ssant, about seventeen miles
+distant, by means of a steamer, weather permitting,
+as the Chenal du Four, which separates this group
+of islands from the continent, is covered with rocks
+and is very dangerous in rough weather. Its men
+are all seamen or fishermen, the women perform the
+agricultural labour. They bring in their produce
+to Brest at the monthly fairs, and are not so cut off
+from the world as Gresset describes them:&mdash;</p>
+
+<pb n="129"/><anchor id="Pg129"/>
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Sous un ciel toujours rigoureux</q></l>
+<l>Au sein des flots imp�tueux,</l>
+<l>Non loin de l'Armorique plage</l>
+<l>Habitacle mar�cageux,</l>
+<l>Moiti� peupl�, moiti� sauvage,</l>
+<l>Dont les habitants malheureux</l>
+<l>Separ�s du reste du monde,</l>
+<l>Semblent ne conno�tre l'onde</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Et n'�tre connus que des cieux.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Gresset.</author>&mdash;<title rend="italic">Car�me impromptu.</title></bibl></l>
+</lg>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image25.jpg">
+    <head>25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>We now reached the Abbey of St. Mathieu,
+situated on the extreme point of Brittany and of
+France, on the top of a promontory, well called
+Finist�re. Here in the sixth century was built a
+monastery in honour of St. Matthew the Evangelist,
+whose head had been stolen in Egypt by some
+Breton navigators, and been brought to land at this
+point, which long bore the name of "St. Mathieu
+de fin de terre" (Finist�re). In the twelfth century
+the monastery was converted into a Benedictine
+abbey, which is a beautiful example of the Early
+English style. The formidable rocks at its feet are
+called Les Moines. The monks of St. Mathieu
+kept a beacon for the safety of mariners on these
+dangerous shores. The modern lighthouse quite
+masks the sight of the abbey, and is a great disfigurement
+to the view, which, in other respects, is most
+grand; the imposing granite ruins of the abbey
+church on the very edge of these weather-beaten
+cliffs, worn and torn by the ocean with its unwearied
+<pb n="130"/><anchor id="Pg130"/>
+waves; on the right, the reefs of the Passage du
+Four, which appear to unite the islands of Ou�ssant
+and its satellites to St. Mathieu; on the left the
+elongated point of the Bec du Raz, which no one,
+according to the Bretons, ever passed without grief
+and suffering. In sight of Saint Mathieu, the
+English in 1504, with eighty ships, attacked Herv�
+de Porzmoguer, a Breton captain, with only twenty.
+His own ship the 'Cordeli�re,' which had been built
+and fitted out by Anne of Bretagne, at her own
+expense, took fire; it held 1200 troops besides the
+ship's company. Porzmoguer grappled the 'Cordeli�re'
+to the ship of the English admiral, the 'Great
+Harry;' and both vessels, driven by the north-west
+wind to the entrance of the Goulet, were burned
+together, and above 2000 men perished in the two
+ships. Porzmoguer mounted the mast followed by
+the raging flames, and cast himself from the main-top,
+in full armour, into the sea.</p>
+
+<p>In 1597, the fleet sent by Philip II. to take possession
+of Brittany for Spain was dispersed in a storm
+off Point St. Mathieu, and, out of a hundred and
+twenty ships, scarcely one remained.</p>
+
+<p>On our way home, we passed a little town called
+La Trinit�, from three springs all issuing from the
+same fountain, at which washerwomen with their
+wooden bats were hard at work, beating the clothes
+to rags on the stones.</p>
+<pb n="131"/><anchor id="Pg131"/>
+
+<pb n="132"/><anchor id="Pg132"/>
+
+<pb n="133"/><anchor id="Pg133"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 26. Peasant Girl of Ou�ssant.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image26.jpg">
+    <head>26. Peasant Girl of Ou�ssant.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Next day was the monthly fair at Brest, which
+brought in many of the country people in their
+picturesque costumes. Most conspicuous among
+them were the peasants of Ou�ssant, last type of the
+Celtic women, in their singularly Italian-looking
+head-dress, their hair streaming over their shoulders;
+and the Plougastel men, in red caps, with coats and
+trowsers of white flannel.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the market-women were furnished with
+<pb n="134"/><anchor id="Pg134"/>
+enormous umbrellas, red, blue, and green. In this
+rainy province, they are indispensable, and the acquisition
+of an umbrella is a great object of ambition
+to the Breton peasant.</p>
+
+<p>We left Brest by the steamer for Pont Launay
+and Ch�teaulin, a four hours' sail in the harbour of
+Brest. On the right we passed the Point des Espagnols,
+where Frobisher, sent by Queen Elizabeth to
+the assistance of Henry IV., received his death wound.
+Leaving on our left Plougastel, where we were unable
+to visit the celebrated calvary, we passed near the
+"Anse du Fret," whence Joan of Navarre, then
+widow of Duke John IV., sailed to England to
+marry Henry of Lancaster, 1403. Henry, when
+Earl of Derby, had visited Nantes to ask the assistance
+of his uncle in returning to England, and Joan
+had favoured his expedition, but Duke John died
+the same year (1399). When Queen Dowager of
+England, she saw the children of her two husbands
+arrayed against each other, and her son Arthur, who
+had been invested by King Henry IV. with the
+Earldom of Richmond, made prisoner at Agincourt
+by his half-brother King Henry V., who confined
+him in the Tower, and afterwards in Fotheringay
+Castle. Joan received hard treatment from her
+stepson. Accused of being a sorceress&mdash;a reputation
+she inherited from her father, Charles the Bad of
+Navarre&mdash;Henry caused her to be confined in
+<pb n="135"/><anchor id="Pg135"/>
+Leeds and Pevensey castles, and deprived her of
+her property. It was only on his approaching
+death that he restored her to liberty. She retired
+to Havering Bower in Essex, where her grandson,
+the unfortunate Gilles de Bretagne, was reared
+and educated with Henry VI. She died in 1437,
+and the memory of "Joan the witch queen" was
+long held in awe by the people of Havering Bower.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 27. Peasant Girl, Ch�teaulin.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image27.jpg">
+    <head>27. Peasant Girl, Ch�teaulin.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>On the left is the hamlet of Kersanton, which
+gives its name to the stone so called. At the entrance
+of the Aulne,<note place="foot">
+A fine viaduct is in course of construction across the
+valley of the Aulne, composed of twelve arches, remarkable for
+their immense span (72 feet), and at an elevation of 170 feet
+above the water.</note> to the right, we passed the ruins of the
+abbey of Land�venec, the most ancient monastic
+establishment in Brittany. At Pont Launay an omnibus
+took us to the railway station at Ch�teaulin,
+celebrated for its slate quarries, a drive of three
+quarters of an hour. From here we proceeded by
+rail to Quimper, capital of Cornouaille. The district
+of Cornouaille&mdash;Cornu-Galli�, expressing its position
+at the horn or extremity of France&mdash;is most varied in
+character. The part on the north is enclosed between
+the two chains of mountains, which, running nearly
+parallel with each other, traverse the department
+of Finist�re, the Men�-Arr�, and the Montagnes
+Noires. A single chain passes through the C�tes-du-Nord,
+<pb n="136"/><anchor id="Pg136"/>
+and forks off, at the edge of the department,
+near Callac, whence the northern range, the
+Men�-Arr�, runs westwards to Faou harbour; while
+the Montagnes Noires incline to the south-west, and
+reach the sea near Crozon. The country between
+these chains is dreary and bare&mdash;barren plains and
+black mountains; to the south it is cultivated and
+productive. The stormy rock-bound coast is wild
+and desolate. One-third of the department consists
+<pb n="137"/><anchor id="Pg137"/>
+of landes, marshes, and sandy shores (<hi rend="italic">gr�ves</hi>).
+The people are the Irish of Brittany. Their wants
+are restricted to a tub of salted pork and a provision
+of cider, with rye, or black corn, to make their
+"galette." They are simple in their manners, kind
+to the poor, and enduring of suffering. Respect
+for the misfortunes of others, and patience under
+their own, is one of the Breton characteristics.</p>
+
+<p>In the days of Conan Meriadec there lived a holy
+man, called Corentin, who retired to a solitude for
+prayer and meditation, near a fountain in a forest.
+Every morning a little fish came to him from the
+fountain; he cut a piece off it for his daily pittance
+and threw it again into the water, and in an instant
+the fish became whole. The miracle was repeated
+every morning. One day King Gradlon, who held
+his court at "Kemper," was in the forest near the
+hermitage of St. Corentin, with some of his suite, and
+asked him if he could give him something to eat.
+The saint immediately ran to his fountain and called
+his little fish, cut off a piece, which he gave to the
+ma�tre d'h�tel to prepare for the king and his attendants.
+The chef laughed when he took the slice;
+but, to the surprise of everybody, the fish multiplied
+so as to completely satisfy the hunger of the king
+and his party. Gradlon threw himself on his knees
+at the feet of St. Corentin, and gave him the forest,
+with a "maison de plaisance," which St. Corentin
+<pb n="138"/><anchor id="Pg138"/>
+converted into a monastery. The king afterwards
+erected Quimper into a bishopric, to which he nominated
+St. Corentin:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l rend="left-margin:4"><q rend="pre">Voici dans le fond la ville de Kemper,</q></l>
+<l>Asise au confluent de l'Oded et du Ster.</l>
+<l>Comme sa cath�drale, aux deux tours dentel�es,</l>
+<l>S'�l�ve noblement du milieu des vall�es,</l>
+<l>O perle de l'Oded, fille du roi Grallon,</l>
+<l>Qui de saint Corentin portes aussi le nom,</l>
+<l>Rejouis-toi, Kemper, dans tes vielles murailles!</l>
+<l>Vois avec quelle ardeur, � reine de Cornouailles,</l>
+<l>Tes fils de tous les points de l'antique �v�ch�,</l>
+<l>P�cheurs et montagnards, viennent � ton march�!</l>
+<l>Cornouillais! en passant pr�s de sa basilique,</l>
+<l>Du bon saint Corentin adorez la relique.</l>
+<l>Que tous ceux d'Elliant et des m�mes chemins</l>
+<l>Boivent � sa fontaine et s'y lavent les mains;</l>
+<l>Non pas les L�onards, eux de qui les anc�tres,</l>
+<l>Voici quelque mille ans, hommes jaloux et tra�tres,</l>
+<l>Vol�rent le poisson dont notre Corentin</l>
+<l>Coupait pour se nourrir un pen chaque matin,</l>
+<l>Et qui chaque matin, � pieuse merveille!</l>
+<l>Nageait dans sa fontaine aussi frais que la veille:</l>
+<l>Eh bien! les L�onards vol�rent ce poisson,</l>
+<l>Mais Kemper n'oublie jamais leur trahison;</l>
+<l>Sans jouir de leur crime, ils en portent la peine,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Et toujours le poisson nage dans la fontaine.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><title rend="italic">Les Bretons</title>&mdash;<author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Quimper, or Quimper-Corentin, is prettily situated
+at the junction of the rivers Odet and Stheire; its
+Breton name, Kemper, signifying confluence. It was
+long called Kemper-Odet. On the opposite side of
+the river the hills, consisting of a mass of rocks,
+<pb n="139"/><anchor id="Pg139"/>
+covered with trees, rise to some height, and are
+ascended by well-kept walks. The river runs straight
+through the town, like a canal, edged by stone quays
+and crossed by iron bridges, with avenues of trees on
+each side. Trout can be seen in the sparkling stream;
+and we watched a boy with a hook at the end of a
+reel of black silk, hanging over the bridge, with a
+piece of kneaded bread for bait. With this simple
+tackle he contrived to hook a trout of tolerable size,
+and let it run out the length of his silk line till he
+had tired it out and landed it. The scenery of the
+river below Quimper, flowing through a bed of
+granite blocks, is, we were told, lovely, but we had
+no time to visit it further down. The view from the
+top of the wood-covered heights on the opposite
+side is very extensive, looking down upon the town,
+with its cathedral towers rising above, the promenade,
+and the course of the river. At the end of the town
+there is a manufactory of coarse pottery; but formerly
+it produced ware of a finer quality.</p>
+
+<p>The beautiful cathedral is the largest of the four
+episcopal churches of Lower Brittany (Vannes, St.
+Pol, Quimper, and Tr�guier), and was principally
+built in the fifteenth century. On the platform over
+the finely sculptured porch, rich in foliage like the
+Folgo�t, placed between the two towers, is the equestrian
+statue of King Gradlon, to whom is attributed
+the introduction of the vine into Brittany. The statue
+<pb n="140"/><anchor id="Pg140"/>
+was decapitated in 1793, but restored ten years back.
+On St. Cecilia's day companies of musicians used to
+mount on the platform. While they sang a hymn
+in praise of King Gradlon, one of the choristers,
+provided with a flagon of wine, a napkin, and golden
+hanap, mounted on the crupper of King Gradlon's
+horse, poured out a cup of wine, which he offered
+ceremoniously to the lips of the statue and then
+drank himself, carefully wiped with his napkin the
+moustachios of the king, placed a branch of laurel
+in his hand, and then threw down the hanap in the
+midst of the crowd below, in honour of the first
+planter of the grape in Brittany. To whoever caught
+the cup before it fell, and presented it uninjured
+to the Chapter, was adjudged a prize of two hundred
+crowns.</p>
+
+<p>The two spires of the cathedral are modern, and
+were built by an annual subscription of a sou for
+five years, called the "sou du St. Corentin:" more
+than 600<hi rend="italic">l.</hi> was thus raised. They have only been
+lately finished.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 28. Beggar. Quimper.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image28.jpg">
+    <head>28. Beggar. Quimper.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The men about Quimper all wear the national
+costume&mdash;enormous bragou-bras, or breeches of a
+kind of white sail-cloth, a broad-brimmed felt hat,
+long hair, falling over the shoulders, wooden shoes,
+and a broad belt with metal buckle. Their woollen
+jacket and waistcoat are edged with gay colours, and
+have sometimes the itinerant tailor's name and the
+<pb n="141"/><anchor id="Pg141"/>
+date of the making of the garment, embroidered in
+wool upon the breast. On gala days brown or blue
+cloth bragous are worn, tied with coloured ribbons
+at the knees, black leather gaiters with buttons, and
+the sabots are replaced by leather shoes and costly
+silver buckles. The national costume is more preserved
+in Cornouaille than in the other parts of
+Brittany.  The pen bas or cudgel, with a large
+<pb n="142"/><anchor id="Pg142"/>
+knob, like the Irish shillelah, is always ready at
+hand:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Comme une conque immense ouverte au bord des eaux,</q></l>
+<l>En Cornouaille est un port, il y vient cent bateaux.</l>
+<l>Un sable jaune et fin couvre ses c�tes plates,</l>
+<l>Mais un infect amas de rogues, de morgates,</l>
+<l>D'ossements de poissons sur le rivage �pars,</l>
+<l>La saumure qui filtre entre ses deux remparts,</l>
+<l>Soul�vent tous les sens quand cette odeur saline</l>
+<l>Arrive au voyageur qui tourne la colline,</l>
+<l>Laissant derri�re lui les taillis de Melven,</l>
+<l>La belle lande d'or qui parfume Aven,</l>
+<l>Et ces mouvants aspects de plaines, de montagnes</l>
+<l>Que d�roulent sans fin nos sauvages campagnes.</l>
+<l>Plus de batteurs de seigle ici, plus de faucheurs,</l>
+<l>Mais des canots charg�s de mousses, de p�cheurs,</l>
+<l>Partant et revenant avec chaque mar�e,</l>
+<l>Et sur les quais du pont versant � leur rentr�e,</l>
+<l>Des sardines en tas, des congres, des merlus,</l>
+<l>Des homards cuirass�s, de gros crabes velus;</l>
+<l>Et, du fond des paniers, mille genres �normes,</l>
+<l>De toutes les couleurs et de toutes les formes,</l>
+<l>Avec leur &oelig;il vitreux et leur museau b�ant,</l>
+<l>Tous enfants monstrueux du grand monstre Oc�an.</l>
+<l>Aussit�t le pressier les s�che, les empile,</l>
+<l>Et quand leur grasse chair a degorg� son huile,</l>
+<l>De Nantes � Morlaix cherchant les acheteurs,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">On voit bondir sur mer les hardis caboteurs."</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><title rend="italic">Les Bretons</title>&mdash;<author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image29.jpg">
+    <head>29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Thus the Breton poet describes Concarneau, a
+little fortified town, which has been called the St.
+Malo of Cornouaille, and is celebrated for its sardine
+fishery. The road lay through a wooded country,
+with steep hills and valleys, intersected by streams:
+<pb n="143"/><anchor id="Pg143"/>
+on the right a view of the Bay of La For�t, where
+extensive oyster-culture is going on. After a tedious
+journey with miserable horses, we reached Concarneau
+at nine, a distance of little more than thirteen
+miles, having set off a few minutes after four. Concarneau
+proper is on a rocky island, surrounded by
+fortifications, with eight or nine towers and thick
+walls, and communicating with the mainland by
+means of a drawbridge. This is called the "Ville
+Close." It consists of only one street. When Duke
+John IV. embarked from here for England, he left
+<pb n="144"/><anchor id="Pg144"/>
+Sir Robert Knollys governor of the duchy. The
+constable Du Guesclin, after the surrender of Hennebont
+and Quimperl�, took Concarneau by storm
+and slew all the English garrison, except the captain,
+who received quarter.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite the island is the faubourg Sainte Croix,
+which is more populous than the Ville Close, and
+where all the business of the place is carried on.
+The sardine fishery, from June to November, occupies
+two-thirds of the population. From three to
+four hundred vessels are employed with five men
+to each boat. Calm weather is most favourable for
+fishing. The sardines are taken in large seine nets,
+one side floating with corks on the surface of the
+water, the other falling vertically. The sardines,
+attracted by the bait, try to force themselves through
+the meshes of the net, and are caught by their gills.
+The bait used is called "rogue:" the best is composed
+of the roe of the cod-fish, pounded and steeped
+in salt water for several days; sometimes the roe and
+flesh of the <corr sic="mackarel">mackerel</corr> is used. Rogue is made in
+Norway and Denmark, but principally at Drontheim,
+and is very expensive, costing about sixpence the lb.;
+hence an inferior bait is substituted, composed of
+shrimps and other small crustacea, with fish salted,
+and the heads of anchovies, all pounded and putrified
+together. But this kind of decomposed bait is forbidden
+by the fishery laws. The employment of it
+<pb n="145"/><anchor id="Pg145"/>
+accounts for the rareness of good sardines, as the
+remaining of such a substance in the body of the
+animal cannot fail of corrupting it. It is a pretty
+sight to behold the little fleet employed in the sardine
+fishery return in the evening, laden with the
+results of the day's work. The fish, when landed,
+are counted out into baskets, shaken in the water,
+and taken up to one of the curing-houses: of these
+there are about sixty in Concarneau. In the first
+shed we saw above fifty women employed in taking
+off their heads&mdash;"det�ter" it is called&mdash;an operation
+they effect with great dexterity. With one cut at
+the back of the neck the head is separated and the
+fish "�ventr�" at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>The sardines are next placed in little wire trays,
+with divisions like a double gridiron, and fried or
+dipped in boiling oil, an operation principally performed
+by the women of Pont l'Abb�, who are
+supposed, like the Germans of our baking and
+sugar-refining houses, to be peculiarly constituted
+to resist heat. The gridirons are then hung up to
+drain. The sardines are next packed in tin boxes,
+cold oil poured over them, and the boxes soldered
+down. From 800 to 900 boxes are placed in a
+boiler and boiled for half an hour to test the boxes,
+and those which leak are put aside. They are of
+English tin, and the making of them is the winter's
+occupation. Finally, the boxes are stamped with
+<pb n="146"/><anchor id="Pg146"/>
+the name of the establishment, and packed in deal
+cases for exportation. The sardine is a very delicate
+fish, and easily decays. It is only taken out of the
+net with a rake (<hi rend="italic">raquette</hi>); in summer, numbers
+are spoiled from being heaped in the boats, and
+at whatever hour the boats come in the fish go
+through the whole process of curing, as they will
+not keep till the next day. Concarneau exports
+from 15,000 to 20,000 barrels of sardines annually.
+<pb n="147"/><anchor id="Pg147"/>
+Only a part are "anchoit�e," that is, preserved like
+the anchovies of the Mediterranean, the others are
+salted in casks; and quantities, only slightly salted,
+are packed in baskets, to be sent to the provincial
+markets. It is estimated that twelve hundred
+million fish have been caught this year. The sardine
+fishery extends along the whole western coast
+of Brittany from Douarnenez to the Loire.</p>
+
+<p>One of the curiosities of Concarneau is its aquarium,
+under the direction of M. Guillon. It consists
+of six cisterns, made by the blasting of the solid
+rock, and comprising an area of large extent, within
+a walled enclosure. In these cisterns the water is
+renewed at each turn of the tide through narrow
+openings in the wall. Three of these reservoirs are
+reserved for fish, the others for crustacea&mdash;lobsters
+and langoustes. Of these they keep from 10,000 to
+15,000 at a time, and send them off daily, when
+fattened, to Paris and the principal markets of
+France. It was curious to see the dread shown by
+the common lobster to the langouste. They all
+were adhering to the sides of the reservoirs as if
+afraid to encounter their more powerful companions.
+Quantities of turbot, also reared for sale, were in
+one of the cisterns, darting with the greatest rapidity
+in the water when the keeper threw in pieces of
+sardines for them to eat. At the end of these
+cisterns is a building, with every arrangement for
+<pb n="148"/><anchor id="Pg148"/>
+the culture of fishes&mdash;rows of little troughs, and
+other vessels, to contain them. Many of the fish
+are so tame, they came immediately to the keeper
+on his making a noise in the water with his fingers.
+Here are fish of every description, and naturalists
+have every facility of studying their habits. Among
+others, we saw the graceful little sea-horse or hippocampus,
+a native of the seas of Brittany as well as of
+the Mediterranean.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 30. Dolmen. Tr�gunc.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image30.jpg">
+    <head>30. Dolmen. Tr�gunc.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>From Concarneau to Quimperl� is a distance of
+above eighteen miles. The road runs near the sea,
+<pb n="149"/><anchor id="Pg149"/>
+over a large tract of land covered with furze (ajonc),
+which, in Brittany, grows from five to six feet high,
+forming a solid impenetrable mass. Huge blocks of
+granite are scattered about in every direction, jutting
+<del>out</del> out from among the furze&mdash;menhirs, cromlechs,
+and dolmens&mdash;a perfect wilderness of Celtic remains.
+We drove over an extent of several miles of furze-covered
+hills and heathy land. Before we reached
+the village of Tr�gunc we stopped to see a large dolmen
+on the side of the road, and further to the right
+a rocking-stone, twelve feet long and nine feet thick,
+standing about fifteen feet from the ground, the
+second largest in Brittany. It is poised by a little projection,
+like an inverted cone, upon another rock lying
+half-buried in the ground. The upper block can
+easily be set in motion by the hand. It is called by
+the country people "La pierre aux maris tromp�s,"
+and was formerly consulted by husbands to test the
+fidelity of their wives. Even now the partner of a
+faithless wife is said to be incapable of giving to the
+stone the rocking motion it so easily receives from
+another.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 31. Rocking Stone. Tr�gunc.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image31.jpg">
+    <head>31. Rocking Stone. Tr�gunc.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>On the left we passed the majestic ruins of the
+castle of Rust�phan, <hi rend="italic">i.&nbsp;e.</hi> Run, mound, of Stephen,
+having been built by Stephen Count of Penthi�vre
+at the beginning of the twelfth century. It belonged
+in the thirteenth to Blanche of Castile, the mother
+of St. Louis. The present edifice dates from the
+<pb n="150"/><anchor id="Pg150"/>
+fifteenth. One of the sides remaining has a cylindrical
+tower with pinnacled doorway, and the windows
+have stone mullions.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 32. Ch�teau of Rust�phan.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image32.jpg">
+    <head>32. Ch�teau of Rust�phan.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Pursuing our road through blocks of granite, we
+descended into the valley of Pontaven, the town of
+millers, according to the old saying&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Pont Aven, ville de renom;</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Quatorze moulins, deux maisons;</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>a little port built upon rocks, at the foot of two
+elevated mountains, over which are scattered masses
+of granite boulders, obstructing the course of the
+river which bounds over them. The banks are
+lined with woody slopes; wooden bridges cross the
+<pb n="151"/><anchor id="Pg151"/>
+river at intervals; mills are established on the ledges
+of the rocks on its sides; and the noise of the mills,
+with that of the sparkling river tumbling through
+the rocks in waterfalls, keep up a perpetual din.
+Pontaven is celebrated for the quantity of its salmon:
+so much is taken, that it used to be said that the
+millers fattened their pigs upon this fish, which was
+literally true, as they took the small salmon, called
+gl�sils, in nets (<hi rend="italic">poches</hi>) for that purpose. Salmon now
+is very dear. At the mouth of the Pontaven river
+was a castle, whose proprietor had the privilege of
+firing upon the fishing-boats which returned up the
+river without giving to the castellan their finest
+fish, which his steward went down to select. Pontaven
+is seven and a half miles from Bannalec, the
+nearest railway station. After remaining a few hours
+we drove on to Quimperl�&mdash;in Breton, Kemper
+(confluence) Ell�&mdash;so called, because it is at the
+confluence of two rivers, the Elle and Isole:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Vous reverrai-je encore, � fleuve de l'Ell�,</q></l>
+<l>Vous, Iz�le, o� mon c&oelig;ur est toujours rappell�!</l>
+<l>Les eaux sombres de l'Ell�, claire ceux de l'Iz�le;</l>
+<l><q rend="post">De ces bords enchant�s je dirais chaque saule.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux.</author></bibl></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Quimperl� is a great resort for fishing, the Quimperl�
+salmon and trout being renowned throughout
+Brittany, and even at Paris. This town is beautifully
+situated, surrounded by high hills, in a valley, watered
+<pb n="152"/><anchor id="Pg152"/>
+by these bright rivers, the hills covered with gardens,
+orchards, the Ursuline, Capucine, and other convents,
+and crowned by the steeples of the Gothic
+church of St. Michael. Its principal building is the
+church of St. Croix, formerly that of a Benedictine
+abbey, celebrated for its riches. The island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer
+then belonged to it. It is a most singular
+edifice, built in the eleventh century, after the model
+of the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.
+In 1862 it fell down, but is at present in course of
+restoration, after its original plan. The old abbey
+buildings are now occupied by the Prefecture. We
+were given permission to pass through the convent
+garden&mdash;the workmen and building materials having
+blocked up the other entrances&mdash;to see the crypt in
+which is the tomb of Saint Gurlo�s, first abbot of
+Quimperl�. His effigy, with crosier in hand, his
+feet resting on a dragon, lies upon a monument,
+about three feet high, with an opening in the lower
+part. The saint&mdash;Saint Urlose, as the Bretons call
+him&mdash;is invoked principally for the gout, and persons
+so afflicted crawl through the hole under the tomb,
+where, suspended by chains, is an iron hook. They
+twist a lock of their hair round this hook, and tear it
+off with violence, hoping to propitiate the saint by
+this mortification&mdash;evidently a remnant of heathen
+times, when hair was sacrificed to deities or to the
+memory of departed friends.</p>
+<pb n="153"/><anchor id="Pg153"/>
+
+<p>At Quimperl� was buried John de Montfort, rival
+of Charles of Blois for the ducal crown. Sent to
+Paris under a safe-conduct by the Dauphin John,
+Philip of Valois had him shut up in the Louvre,
+whence he escaped, after a captivity of three years,
+to England. Edward III. espoused his cause and
+granted him some troops. After an unsuccessful
+attack upon Quimper, De Montfort died (1345) at
+Hennebont, and was buried in the church of the Dominicans
+at Quimperl�. He appointed Edward III.
+guardian of his son, and Edward immediately occupied
+Quimperl� and caused money to be struck in
+his name. Lord Lewis of Spain, on the side of
+Charles of Blois, made a descent upon Quimperl�
+at the head of 6000 men, and pillaged the whole
+country. On the news reaching Sir Walter Manny,
+he hastened to meet the enemy, took possession of
+their fleet, and made such carnage of the soldiers,
+that they were all killed or taken prisoners, and
+Lewis of Spain escaped with difficulty. The country
+about Quimperl� is beautiful&mdash;wood and water in
+every direction. The department of Finist�re is
+traversed by three hundred streams, and has an
+extent of nearly four hundred miles of coast. We
+were advised to go and see the rood-screen of the
+chapel of Rosgrand, but had no time. We visited
+the ruins of the church of St. Columban. Above
+a round-arched doorway is a beautiful flamboyant
+<pb n="154"/><anchor id="Pg154"/>
+window, between two canopied niches. We next
+walked up to the Place near St. Michel, where a
+cattle-market was being held. The Breton peasants,
+with their long shaggy uncombed hair hanging
+round their shoulders&mdash;they comb and wash only
+on f�te days&mdash;their dirty canvas bragou bras, patched
+coats, and sabots with tufts of straw crammed in,
+looked more dirty than it is possible to imagine.
+Cleanliness is the last of the Breton virtues. The
+market and the fair are the two great events of the
+country, and people flock from great distances to
+sell their merchandise. But of all extraordinary
+animals is the Breton pig, as tall as a donkey; a lean,
+long-necked, ragged, bristly, savage-looking beast,
+as ill kept as its master, and it runs like a greyhound
+when approached. The Breton cow is very small,
+small as the Kerry cows of Ireland, very pretty and
+very productive. The Breton butter is proverbially
+good, and is given out most liberally, in lumps as
+big as loaves, at the tables-d'h�te. It is brought to
+market in jars which the women carry upon their
+heads. It is to the Queen-Duchess that Brittany,
+and indeed all France, owes the privilege of eating
+butter in Lent.  It was forbidden as animal food
+by the laws of the Church, and oil, a vegetable
+production, ordered as a substitute.  In 1491,
+Anne solicited of Rome, for herself and household,
+permission to eat butter on fast-days, alleging,
+<pb n="155"/><anchor id="Pg155"/>
+as a plea, that Brittany did not produce oil. Encouraged
+by this favour, Brittany obtained the same
+indulgence, and it was acquired successively by the
+other provinces of France; but all are originally
+indebted for the privilege to the good Queen-Duchess
+Anne.</p>
+
+<p>Next day, leaving the department of Finist�re, we
+entered that of Morbihan, and went by rail to Lorient
+on the river Scorff, here joined by the Blavet. It
+was formerly the seat of the French East India
+Company; it is now one of the five military ports
+of France and the residence of a maritime Prefect.
+In the Place Bisson is the statue of a young officer
+of the French navy, a native of Guemen�-sur-Scorff
+(Morbihan). When commanding, in 1827, a brig
+in the Greek Archipelago, he was attacked by two
+pirate vessels. Nine out of his fifteen men were
+killed and himself wounded; the enemy crowded on
+the deck. Desiring the survivors of his crew to
+jump overboard, "Now," cried he to the pilot, "is
+the moment for revenge!" and, setting fire to the
+powder-magazine, he blew up himself, his ship, and
+the pirates who had boarded her. Next morning
+the bodies of seventy Greeks lay on the sea-shore,
+showing the success of his self-devotion. The pilot,
+who, with four sailors, was saved, received the decoration
+of the Legion of Honour. On the pedestal
+of Bisson's statue is an inscription, concluding with
+<pb n="156"/><anchor id="Pg156"/>
+these words: "Mort en h�ros, pour son roi et sa
+patrie, ses amis le pleurent, la France le regrette, et
+ses fr�res d'armes envient son sort."</p>
+
+<p>From here we proceeded to Hennebont (Breton,
+"old bridge"), famous, in the War of Succession, for
+its heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, during the
+captivity of her husband, Jean de Montfort, who had
+been taken prisoner at Nantes and carried off to
+Paris. Jeanne, who, as Froissart says, had the courage
+of a man and the heart of a lion, placed herself
+at the head of his party. Like another Maria Theresa,
+she presented herself before the Breton lords, with
+her infant son in her arms, and received their oaths
+of allegiance. She then joined in the defence of
+Hennebont, which was invested by Charles of Blois.
+Clothed in armour and mounted on a war-horse, she
+galloped up and down the streets, encouraging the
+inhabitants. She ordered the ladies of her suite and
+other women of the place to cut short their "keytels,"
+carry the stones to the ramparts, and transport pots
+of quick-lime to throw down upon the enemy.
+At the head of 300 horsemen, the Countess, who
+rode better than any squire, sallied out of the town,
+attacked and burnt the enemy's camp, retreated to
+Auray, and, a few days after, re-entered Hennebont,
+with banners flying and trumpets sounding. But
+the blockade was so close that provisions were
+wanting, and the garrison compelled her to agree to
+<pb n="157"/><anchor id="Pg157"/>
+a capitulation, unless within three days assistance
+arrived from England. The time was on the point
+of expiring, and a herald had approached the gate of
+the city to receive the keys in the name of Charles
+of Blois, when the Countess, from her window, perceived
+at sunrise the English fleet entering the port
+in full sail. She exclaimed, "We are saved!" The
+siege was raised, and the Countess, says Froissart,
+kissed Sir Walter Manny and all his companions,
+one after the other, two or three times, like a noble
+and valiant dame. "Better," observed Charles, when
+he heard the news, "that Jeanne, instead of her
+lord, had been shut up in the Louvre." He left the
+carrying on of the siege to Lewis of Spain, and proceeded
+to Vannes and Auray. Some fragments of
+walls are all that remain of Jeanne de Montfort's
+castle, which was situated on a height on the other
+side of the river in the "Vieille ville." The town on
+the left bank of the Blavet is called the "Ville neuve"
+and the "Ville close," being surrounded by walls.
+Large vessels ascend the Blavet to Hennebont. It
+is traversed by a light and elegant railway viaduct
+of twelve arches. We saw on the quay a quantity of
+red iron-ore from Bilbao.</p>
+
+<p>Hennebont is a very pretty town; the principal
+building is the church of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, of
+the sixteenth century, with a fine square stone tower,
+surmounted by a beautiful spire, and a tall porch,
+<pb n="158"/><anchor id="Pg158"/>
+forming one side of the tower. This handsome
+church has lately been restored. The scenery about
+the Blavet is very pretty&mdash;the banks wooded, and
+fertile fields. We took a boat and rowed up the
+river, passing the ruined Abbaye de la Joie, where a
+hideous ch�teau has been built. This was a Cistercian
+convent, founded in the thirteenth century by
+Blanche of Navarre, wife of Duke John I. (<hi rend="italic">le Roux</hi>).
+The chapel of Notre Dame-de-Paradis formerly belonged
+to the convent; but when the parish church
+was demolished, the Abbey ceded this chapel to the
+town, reserving the privilege of a separate seat for
+the Abbess, who, on the Sunday after St. John's day,
+had her crosier carried before her in state by one of
+her vassals at high mass and vespers.</p>
+
+<p>From Hennebont we went by rail to Auray, and
+established ourselves for some time in the Pavillon
+d'en Haut, a most comfortable hotel. Auray is
+situated on the slope of a hill, the streets narrow
+and steep.</p>
+
+<p>Our first drive was to Ste. Anne d'Auray, one of
+the most famous places of pilgrimage in Brittany,
+on account of its miraculous well and church. It
+has been called the Mecca of Brittany. Here,
+according to the legend in the seventeenth century,
+Ste. Anne appeared to a countryman, and directed
+him to dig in a certain field, where he would find
+her image, and to build a chapel there. Guided by
+<pb n="159"/><anchor id="Pg159"/>
+a miraculous light, Nicolazic discovered the statue,
+and erected a chapel on the site.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image33.jpg">
+    <head>33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The spring where Ste. Anne first appeared is now
+enclosed in a large basin of cut stone. Near it is the
+church, in course of reconstruction. It stands in a
+court surrounded by covered galleries for the shelter
+of the pilgrims. Two flights of steps, called the
+Scala Sancta (after that of St. John Lateran), lead
+to a platform over the three entrance gates, upon
+which is an altar surmounted by a cupola, where
+mass can be heard by 20,000 persons. The steps
+are ascended by the pilgrims barefooted, as they do
+at Rome. The f�te of Ste. Anne is celebrated on
+the 26th of July, when pilgrims arrive from all
+parts of Brittany to visit the miraculous statue, to
+<pb n="160"/><anchor id="Pg160"/>
+ascend the holy staircase, and to drink or wash in
+the sacred fountain. It was a f�te day when we
+visited Ste. Anne. There was a large assemblage of
+people, and booths were erected round the court,
+where were sold rosaries and the wire brooches, with
+scarlet and blue tufts of worsted, called <hi rend="italic">�pinglettes</hi>,
+worn by the Bretons in their hats as a token of their
+having made a pilgrimage. We saw exhibited the
+photograph of a young lady, said to have lately
+recovered from paralysis after bathing in the holy
+well. So world-wide is the fame of Ste. Anne
+d'Auray that a traveller mentions having seen at
+her shrine an embroidered altar-cloth of Irish
+damask, with "Irlande: Reconnaissance � Sainte
+Anne, 1850," woven into the pattern. The convent,
+with its enclosure, the Scala Sancta, fountain, and
+miraculous bush, all date from the seventeenth
+century. There is a railway station for Ste. Anne,
+within two miles of the church.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to Auray, we went to the Chartreuse,
+which owes its origin to the chapel of Saint Michel-du-Champ
+founded (1382) by John de Montfort,
+afterwards Duke John IV., on the spot where, in
+1364, he gained the battle of Auray, which obtained
+for him the duchy of Brittany. The chapel is close
+to the railway station. In the fifteenth century
+it was given to the Chartreux, and became a
+monastery of the order which existed until the
+<pb n="161"/><anchor id="Pg161"/>
+Revolution. The present church was built at
+the end of the reign of Louis XV.</p>
+
+<p>The battle was fought on the marshy plain by
+the side of the muddy river Alr�e. It is fully
+described by Froissart. In the two armies were
+assembled all the chivalry of England, France and
+Brittany. The Breton-English were commanded by
+Sir John Chandos; the French, by Du Guesclin;
+with de Montfort were also Sir Robert Knollys,
+Sir Hugh Calverley and Olivier de Clisson; with
+Charles of Blois, Du Guesclin, the Comte d'Auxerre,
+the Viscomtes of Rohan and Tournemine, and Charles
+de Dinan. At the moment of the battle, the white
+greyhound of Charles of Blois deserted his master
+and ran to his rival de Montfort, who was on
+horseback, and caressed him, standing on his hind
+paws. De Montfort recognised the dog by his
+collar, ornamented with the arms of Brittany, and
+this incident passed through his army as a favourable
+omen. The dog was known to have been the gift
+of a witch to Duke John the Good, who bequeathed
+it to his niece Jeanne, wife of Charles of Blois.</p>
+
+<p>Both armies heard mass, confessed themselves,
+and received the Communion before they opened
+the battle. The war cry of Charles was, "In the
+name of God and St. Ives," Montfort repeated
+the motto of his family, "Malo mori quam f&oelig;dari"
+(better to die than be sullied), and his troops
+<pb n="162"/><anchor id="Pg162"/>
+advanced to the onset to the cry of "Malo." Both
+chiefs wore the ermines emblazoned on their armour
+and their standards; and relatives and friends were
+ranged in battle array against each other. Following
+the tactics which had been successful at Cressy and
+Poitiers, Chandos quietly awaited the impetuous
+attack of the Franco-Breton army, which was unable
+to shake their antagonists, who returned the charge.
+The mel�e was fearful, but the battle was in favour
+of the English. Charles performed prodigies of
+valour. In vain Rohan and Laval rallied round
+him with the flower of the Breton knights; the
+prince was a prisoner, and an English soldier
+despatched him by plunging a dagger into his
+throat. Du Guesclin sustained all the force of the
+fight with his heavy steel mace, his battle-axe and
+his sword; but his mace was broken, the handle
+of his axe carried away, his sword shivered, and he
+had no other weapon left but his gauntlets, and was
+nearly overpowered by numbers, when Chandos,
+who fought with a battle-axe, entreated him to
+surrender, "Messire Bertrand, rendez-vous, cette
+journ�e n'est pas v�tre; il faut c�der � la fortune,
+une autre fois vous serez plus heureux." Convinced
+of the truth of Chandos' words, Du Guesclin
+surrendered to him the handle of his sword. Beaumanoir
+was among the prisoners; and Clisson, who
+never left the field, lost an eye in the conflict.</p>
+<pb n="163"/><anchor id="Pg163"/>
+
+<p>A hair shirt was found, with thick knotted cords
+round the waist, upon the body of Charles, for he
+delighted in deeds of mortification. He often used
+to place pebbles in his shoes, and once walked two
+leagues barefoot in the snow to visit the relics of
+St. Ives, in consequence of which he was laid up for
+three months. He was buried at Guingamp, and
+his widow and children desired his canonisation; but
+de Montfort, fearing such a step would render him
+unpopular in Brittany, persuaded Pope Gregory XI.
+to refuse it.</p>
+
+<p>Du Guesclin, after he recovered his liberty, was
+destined, three years later, to be a second time the
+prisoner of the English at Navarrete, when the Black
+Prince replaced on his throne the cruel, perfidious
+Don Pedro. When Sir Hugh Calverley asked for
+the freedom of Du Guesclin, he was met by the
+reply, "Il ne faut pas l�cher ce dogue de Bretagne,
+si fatal aux Anglais." It was represented to the
+Black Prince that report ascribed his detention to
+fear or jealousy; upon which he sent for Du Guesclin,
+who told him he was tired of listening to the
+squeaking of the mice in his prison, and longed to
+hear the nightingales of Brittany. He named his
+own ransom at 100,000 florins, the Black Prince
+reduced it to 60,000; and the Princess of Wales
+contributed 20,000. It was paid by Charles V.
+"Had it been ten millions," says his biographer,
+<pb n="164"/><anchor id="Pg164"/>
+"France would have paid it all." In the Mus�e
+des Archives at Paris is preserved an order of
+Charles V. to his treasurer, to prepare 30,000
+Spanish doublons, to be paid to the Prince of Wales
+for the ransom of Du Guesclin, adding, "il touche
+notre honneur grandement." This is the most
+ancient royal autograph in the collection. Charles
+calls him Bertran de Caclin. The Constable, in a
+deed of gift of the Ch�teau of Cachant to the Duke
+of Anjou, signs "Bertrain."</p>
+
+<p>A school for deaf and dumb occupies the Chartreuse,
+directed by the S&oelig;urs de la Sagesse. We
+were shown round by a deaf and dumb guide, who
+made us write on his slate what we could not
+explain on our fingers, and he also wrote his reply.
+He showed us a series of paintings, copies of Le
+S&oelig;ur's Life of St. Bruno in the Louvre, which
+are said to have been executed by the monks
+of the Chartreuse. Attached to the church is a
+sepulchral chapel containing the bones of the victims
+of the unfortunate descent on Quiberon, when the
+immense armament of French royalists who were
+landed in British ships, perished. They were commanded
+by d'Hervilly, an old officer of the Constitutional
+Guard of Louis XVI., and he had for
+lieutenant Count Charles de Sombreuil, whose sister
+had rendered the name illustrious by her heroism
+in the Reign of Terror. They landed at Carnac,
+<pb n="165"/><anchor id="Pg165"/>
+where Georges Cadoudal and a band of Chouans
+awaited their arrival. Hoche, at the head of a republican
+army, hastened to meet them. Every
+thing depended upon their rapidity of action, but
+three days were lost in disputes about the command
+among the emigrant generals. They took possession
+of the peninsula of Quiberon, a strip of land
+about six miles long by three wide, united to the
+mainland by a narrow tongue of sand a league in
+extent, called the Falaise. Fort Penthi�vre, placed
+on the plateau of a steep rock, and bathed on
+each side by the sea between the peninsula and the
+Falaise, defends the approach by land. The emigrant
+army was protected by the English fleet which lay
+in the bay of Quiberon, one of the safest and most
+sheltered on the coast. The defence of Fort Penthi�vre
+was entrusted to some republican soldiers
+taken from the English prisons. In a night encounter
+d'Hervilly was killed.  Hoche marched upon
+Fort Penthi�vre, which was given up to him by the
+traitor soldiers. La Puisaye threw himself into a
+boat and gained the English fleet. The emigrant
+army was thrown into the greatest disorder; the
+"Bleus," as the republican soldiers were called,
+pressed close upon them, and Sombreuil, driven
+to the water's edge, and deserted by his troops,
+offered to capitulate, on the condition that the lives
+should be spared of all save himself. "Yes," cried
+<pb n="166"/><anchor id="Pg166"/>
+the republicans with one voice. They demanded
+that the fire of the English corvette should cease,
+and there being no boat at hand, Gesril du Papeu
+swam to the English ship, and having delivered his
+message, returned and surrendered himself prisoner.
+It is said that Hoche considered the capitulation
+sacred, but Tallien arrived armed with full powers
+from the Convention to treat the emigrants according
+to law. The prisoners had been conducted to
+Auray; Hoche, unwilling to be the witness of acts
+he could not prevent, returned to Brest. Not one
+French officer would consent to be a member of
+the military commission who were to try, or rather
+condemn, the captives. It was composed of Belgians
+and Swiss, and it was difficult to induce the soldiers
+to execute the sentence. Sombreuil and a few others
+were shot at Vannes. The execution of the rest
+took place in a field now called the Champ des
+Martyrs. They were brought out in twenties, and
+placed before a trench, dug beforehand, and shot.
+The massacre lasted three weeks. In all there were
+952 victims. Two chapels have been erected; the
+one attached to the Chartreuse, and the other on
+the Champ des Martyrs. That in the Chartreuse
+has inscribed over the front, in letters of gold,
+"France in tears has raised it." The interior walls
+are overlaid with black and white marble, with two
+marble bas-reliefs by David of Angers: one representing
+<pb n="167"/><anchor id="Pg167"/>
+the Duc d'Angoul�me praying over the
+bones of the victims in 1814, when they were
+transferred from the Champ des Martyrs to the
+Chartreuse; the other, the laying of the first stone
+of the mausoleum by the Duchesse d'<corr sic="Angoulme">Angoul�me</corr>
+in 1823. In 1829 the solemn inauguration of the
+expiatory monument took place; and it must have
+been touching to the spectators to have assisted
+at the ceremony with the Duchesse d'<corr sic="Angoulme">Angoul�me</corr>,
+daughter of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette,
+niece of the martyr saint the Princess Elizabeth,
+and herself long subjected to imprisonment and
+indignities. Only one year after this ceremony she
+again took the road to exile, where she ended her
+troublous life, a pattern of piety and resignation&mdash;</p>
+
+<p rend="margin-left:12"><q>Sa mort fut le soir d'un beau jour.</q></p>
+
+<p>In the centre of the mausoleum is the vault containing
+the bones, and over it a sarcophagus on a
+pedestal, upon which are inscribed the names of the
+victims. On the sarcophagus are busts of Sombreuil
+and the other chiefs of the expedition; and a
+profile of Monseigneur d'Herc�, Bishop of Dol, one
+of the victims. Of the bas-reliefs on the mausoleum,
+one represents the heroic act of Gesril du Papeu,
+with the words "I hoped in God, and shall not be
+afraid;" the other, the landing of the emigrants on
+the shore of Carnac, with "All my brothers are
+<pb n="168"/><anchor id="Pg168"/>
+dead for Israel;"&mdash;these inscriptions are all in Latin.
+Others are round the monument:&mdash;"Unworthily
+slain for God and the King;"&mdash;"Precious before
+God is the blood of his saints;"&mdash;"For our lives
+and our laws;"&mdash;"You will receive a greater glory
+and an eternal name." Our deaf and dumb guide let
+a light down into the vault to show us the bones of
+the victims, collected in one common sepulchre.
+The Chartreuse convent therefore commemorates
+two great tragedies of history: in ancient times the
+battle of Auray, which caused the death of Charles
+of Blois, the captivity of Du Guesclin, and the
+slaughter of the flower of Breton chivalry by the
+swords of their fellow Bretons. In modern days,
+the massacre of the royalists at Quiberon&mdash;both the
+horrible consequence of civil war.</p>
+
+<p>We then repaired to the "Champ des Martyrs,"
+where took place the execution of the royalists. At
+the end of an avenue of silver firs is the expiatory
+chapel, with a granite portico, in the Doric style.
+Above is inscribed, "It is here they fell," and "The
+memory of the just shall be eternal."</p>
+
+<p>On the tomb is written, "Tombeau des royalistes
+courageux defenseurs de l'autel et du tr�ne, ils tomb�rent
+martyrs de leurs nobles efforts. Quel Fran�ais
+p�netr� des droits de la couronne ignore ce
+qu'il doit � ces illustres morts."</p>
+
+<p>The inn Pavilion d'en Haut is particularly comfortable
+<pb n="169"/><anchor id="Pg169"/>
+and reasonable, and the people very obliging.
+Wishing to taste the cr�pes we had seen before,
+they procured some, and gave them to us hot&mdash;we
+thought they resembled a greasy crumpet.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image34.jpg">
+    <head>34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Auray is a good central point for visiting the
+Celtic remains:&mdash;menhirs, dolmens, cromlechs, all of
+which are as plentiful here as are calvaries, shrines,
+and churches in L�on. They seem all concentrated
+<pb n="170"/><anchor id="Pg170"/>
+on these dreary wild landes, sometimes covered with
+furze bushes, at others strewn along the coast.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we drove to Locmariaker, nine miles
+from Auray, through Crach. On the right is the
+river or estuary of that name; over which a bridge is
+contemplated at La Trinit�, to communicate with
+Carnac. Locmariaker is at the extremity of the
+peninsula formed by the rivers of Crach and Auray,
+at the entrance of the Morbihan. It must have
+been a place of some importance in the time of the
+Roman occupation of Gaul, as there are the remains
+of a circus, whose walls now enclose the cemetery,
+of a Gallo-Roman house, with baths, frescoed walls,
+and marble pavement. We picked up some fragments
+of Roman bricks which lie strewn upon the
+ground in great abundance. Midst these Roman
+remains are gigantic menhirs, barrows, and dolmens,
+vestiges of a still more ancient race. Locmariaker
+has two large tumuli, both vast tombs.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 35. Sculptured Stone. Mann� er Hro�ck. Locmariaker.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image35.jpg">
+    <head>35. Sculptured Stone. <lb />Mann� er Hro�ck. <lb />Locmariaker.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>We first visited the Mann�-er-Hro�k, the Montagne
+de la F�e, or de la Femme, which bears in the
+marine charts the name of "Butte de C�sar," for
+it was the fashion with antiquaries to attribute to
+C�sar and the Romans every Celtic monument,
+although bearing no resemblance whatever to any
+work of these conquerors. The Montagne de la
+F�e is a galgal or tumulus of elliptic form, about
+thirty feet high, formed of dry stones.  It was
+<pb n="171"/><anchor id="Pg171"/>
+opened in 1863, and found to contain a sepulchral
+chamber or dolmen, outside of which lay a granite
+stone above three feet long, inscribed with various
+figures, and, in the middle, a cartouche, with
+hatchet-shaped characters. There were also found
+a number of celts (stone hatchets or knives), a green
+jasper necklace, and some glass beads, which have
+been transferred to the museum at
+Vannes.  The guide who furnished
+the light and showed us the grotto
+is the widow of a Polish officer. She
+had a Scotch terrier, which she wanted
+us to accept.  The legend of the
+mound is this:&mdash;A widow had the
+misfortune of losing her only solace,
+her son, compelled by law to embark
+for foreign lands. Years rolled by;
+he did not return. All said he was
+lost; but the heart of a mother hopes
+for ever, and the sad Armorican went
+every day to the point of Kerpenhir,
+whence she surveyed the ocean, and searched
+the depths of the horizon with tearful eyes for the
+purple sail<note place="foot">
+The sailors of the Morbihan cover their sails with a substance
+which makes them of a dark red colour.</note>
+which was to bring joy and peace to her
+dwelling. One day, when she was returning sad as
+<pb n="172"/><anchor id="Pg172"/>
+usual to her desolate home, she was accosted by an
+old woman, who enquired the cause of her troubles;
+and, on hearing them, advised her to heap a pile of
+stones, so that, mounting on the summit, she might
+see to a greater distance, and perhaps discern the
+long looked-for vessel. During the whole night the
+two women worked, and carried in their aprons the
+stones they gathered on the heath. In the morning
+their task was finished, and the Bretonne was scared
+to see the enormous heap that had been piled together;
+but the other quieted her fears, and helped
+her to climb to the top, whence soon the happy
+mother beheld the vessel of her son. The fairy, her
+assistant, had disappeared. This story evidently
+bears a vague tradition of this tumulus having been
+raised by a woman, and of some maritime expedition
+made by him for whom it was probably
+destined. The name of fairy is attached in Brittany
+to everything&mdash;mountains, springs, grottoes,
+rocks; every accident in nature is explained by a
+fairy origin.</p>
+
+<p>The next object we saw is also attributed to the
+fairies, the great menhir, called Men-er-Gro�ch, or
+stone of the fairies. It is the largest menhir known,
+but it has been broken into three pieces, some say
+by thunder. Put together, it measures about 67
+feet in length, and is 16 feet in diameter. The
+wonder is how it was placed there, for it is little less
+<pb n="173"/><anchor id="Pg173"/>
+than the obelisk of St. Peter's, which took 800 to
+900 men and 70 horses nearly a year to raise,&mdash;a
+work which was the great triumph of Fontana the
+engineer. The menhir is estimated to be one-third
+the height of Notre Dame at Paris.</p>
+
+<p>Lying also prostrate on the ground, by the side
+of it, is a smaller menhir, which is, however, above
+30 feet long.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture. Dol des Marchands. Locmariaker.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image36.jpg">
+    <head>36. Hatchet-shaped <lb />Sculpture. Dol des <lb />Marchands. Locmariaker.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Close to these gigantic menhirs is the large dolmen
+(Breton, <hi rend="italic">daul</hi>, table, and <hi rend="italic">m&oelig;n</hi>, stone), known
+as the "Table de C�sar," or the "Dol des Marchands."
+We walked under it to see
+the curious hatchet-shaped figure sculptured
+on one of the upper stones. The
+common belief is that these dolmens or
+table-stones were Druidic altars, and the
+guides will show you the furrows for
+the blood of the human sacrifice to run
+down; but human bones having been
+found under some of these dolmens,
+lead one to suppose they were tombs.
+In the Scandinavian countries the peasants
+call them "Giants' Graves."</p>
+
+<p>The other great tumulus of Locmariaker is the
+Mont Heleu or Mann�-Lud, also opened in 1863,
+and supposed to have been the sepulchre of a number
+of persons, perhaps of a whole generation. It
+has, like the Montagne de la Fe�, a galleried chamber
+<pb n="174"/><anchor id="Pg174"/>
+or dolmen, the floor formed of an enormous
+slab across the centre, on which is a sculpture
+resembling a celt; other sculptured stones were found
+in the same chamber. At the other end of the dolmen
+was an avenue of stones, some supporting the
+skeletons of horses' heads. This tumulus was probably
+the tomb of some great warrior: the horses'
+skeletons were the remains of a sacrifice, and the
+human bones of beings who had been immolated
+to accompany the earthly remains of their great
+chief to another world.</p>
+
+<p>We took a boat for Gavr' Inis, or the Goat
+Island, and embarked on the Morbihan (Breton,
+Little Sea), an inland sea, that gives its name to the
+department. Shut out from the ocean by the two
+peninsulas of Locmariaker and Rhuys, which form
+a narrow gully between the points of Kerpenhir and
+Port Navalo, this sea contains an archipelago of
+islands, numbering, according to tradition, as many
+as the days in the year. Of these, the Ile aux
+Moines is the largest. The arms of the sea forming
+the rivers of Auray and Vannes run into it. The
+navigation of the Morbihan is very dangerous, the
+ocean entering it by this narrow opening in three
+distinct currents; it is an endless labyrinth of rocks
+and water; its granite shores, torn by the sea, are
+indented with creeks, capes, and inlets.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image37.jpg">
+    <head>37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+<then><p>[Illustration: 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image3839.jpg">
+    <head>Fig. 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>
+Gavr' Inis is a small island, surmounted by a tumulus,
+<pb n="175"/><anchor id="Pg175"/>
+which forms a conspicuous object, seen from all
+the mounds and dolmens around. It is a galgal of
+heaped stones, in the centre of which is a dolmen or
+galleried chamber, which was opened in 1832, and
+is the most curious monument in the Morbihan.
+The gallery, with its square sepulchral chamber at
+the end, is above fifty feet long and about five wide,
+composed of two rows of granite menhirs, or upright
+stones, which form the sides, with horizontal stones
+resting on them, ending in a chamber consisting of
+eight menhirs, with an enormous slab, thirteen feet
+<pb n="176"/><anchor id="Pg176"/>
+long, placed over them horizontally to form the
+roof, and another, nearly as large, to form the floor.
+These stones are of granite, and no cement is used
+to unite them.  They are covered with incised
+figures of unknown meaning: sculptures in concentric
+whorls or circles, as if tattoed like the cheek
+of a New Zealander; and the only forms to be distinguished
+are serpent-like figures, and the representation
+of an axe, similar to those to be seen in
+the Grotte des F�es, the Dol des Marchands, and
+the Mann�-Lud. In one of the side stones of the
+chamber are two handle-looking projections, with a
+recess behind, said, probably erroneously, to be the
+place where the victims were bound. No celts or
+other objects of antiquity were found in the grotto,
+which must have been previously rifled of its contents.
+<pb n="177"/><anchor id="Pg177"/>
+These sculptures cannot have been executed
+without the use of metal instruments. There are
+also Celtic remains in the Ile aux Moines and other
+islands of the Morbihan, but our guide did not
+encourage us to extend our sail to visit them. The
+current between the island and Port Navalo is sometimes
+of great rapidity and violence.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we went to Carnac to see its marvellous
+avenues of menhirs. The Celtic remains here are of
+a different character from those of Locmariaker.
+Here there is quantity, at Locmariaker size. The
+monuments of the last are covered with strange
+characters and signs; in Carnac they are all plain
+and silent, according to the laws of the Druids, who
+prohibited writing, in the fear of thereby divulging
+their mysteries, and also that the people might not
+neglect to cultivate their memories.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Tout cela eut un sens, et traduisit</q></l>
+<l>Une pens�e; mais la cl� de ce myst�re,</l>
+<l>O� est elle? et qui pourrait dire aujourd'hui</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Si jamais elle se retrouvera?</q>&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Cayat Delandre</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Before reaching Carnac, we stopped at Kermario
+on the left, and got out of the carriage to inspect
+the army of large menhirs about the windmill.
+They are arranged in eleven rows, some sixteen feet
+high, placed with the small end in the ground.
+They are all of a sombre grey, many of them
+clothed with straggling lichens of various species.
+<pb n="178"/><anchor id="Pg178"/>
+This wild heathy tract was covered with the blue
+flower of the dwarf gentian, and strewed all over
+with menhirs. Before arriving at Carnac, the road
+passes the avenues of Menec, all running in the
+same direction as those of Kermario, from east to
+west: among these are some of the largest stones.
+The third large group, at <corr sic="Erdevan">Erdeven</corr>, we saw on our
+way from Carnac back to Auray by another road.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">D'un pass� sans m�moire incertaines reliques,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Myst�res d'un vieux monde en myst�res �crits.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Lamartine</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>We do not pretend to enter into the various
+explanations attempted of this wonderful monument.
+The legend at Carnac is, that St. Corn�ly,
+pursued by an army of pagans, fled towards the
+sea; finding no boat at hand, and on the point of
+being taken, he transformed the soldiers into stones.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l rend="right"><q rend="pre">Les soldats de deux rois idol�tres</q></l>
+<l>Poursuivaient notre saint dej� l'ami des p�tres,</l>
+<l>Et sur un chariot train� par de grands b&oelig;ufs</l>
+<l>Le bons vieux Corn�li se sauvait devant eux;</l>
+<l>Or, voici que la mer, terrible aussi l'arr�te;</l>
+<l>Alors, le saint pr�lat, du haut de sa charrette</l>
+<l>Tend la main: les soldats, tels qu'ils �taient rang�s,</l>
+<l>En autant de menhirs, voyez! furent chang�s.</l>
+<l>Telle est notre croyance, et personne n'ignore</l>
+<l>Que le patron des b&oelig;ufs c'est ici qu'on l'honore;</l>
+<l>Aux lieux o� la charrette et le saint ont pass�s,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Le froment pousse encor plus vert et plus press�.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>St. Corn�ly is the patron of bullocks. When a
+<pb n="179"/><anchor id="Pg179"/>
+beast is ill, his owner buys an image of St. Corn�ly,
+and hangs it up in the stable till its recovery. In
+the church of Carnac is a series of fresco paintings
+portraying the principal events of his life, and outside,
+a sculpture representing him between two bullocks.
+The head of St. Corn�ly is preserved here;
+the pulpit is of forged iron, and in the sacristy is
+shown a silver gilt monstrance of the Louis XIV.
+period, with a representation of the Supper at Emmaus,
+chased in relief round the foot. We walked
+to the Mont St. Michel, a tumulus of stones with
+sepulchral dolmen, opened in 1862, but now closed.
+It was found to contain objects of the "Stone" age,
+a number of jade celts from four to sixteen inches
+long, some perforated beads and pendents for a
+necklace, and there were traces of burnt bones.
+Like most monuments of Celtic origin, these tumuli
+were regarded with religious veneration; and the
+first teachers of Christianity, to enlist the old worship
+to the cause of truth, marked each of these monuments
+with the symbol of the new faith. Thus the
+cross was placed on the menhir, and a chapel built
+upon Mont St. Michel, and, as we have before seen,
+on Mont Dol, and other high places of Druidic
+worship. The little chapel dedicated to St. Michel,
+which surmounts the tumulus, forms a conspicuous
+landmark from every point, and commands a most
+extensive view over the stones of Carnac ranged in
+<pb n="180"/><anchor id="Pg180"/>
+their eleven lines, on a treeless plain, the Morbihan,
+and the long dreary peninsula of Quiberon.</p>
+
+<p>Returning by another route, we alighted at the
+inn at Plouharnel to see a collection of jade celts,
+gold torques, and necklaces of beads, found in the
+neighbourhood, belonging to the landlord, M. Bail,
+who has them all arranged in a frame. They were
+discovered in a group of dolmens near the village,
+opened in 1830, consisting of three grottos or all�es
+couvertes, a kind of triple dolmen, covered over with
+a mound. The central grotto and gallery had been
+opened before. The second dolmen had also a grotto
+or all�e couverte, in which was found an earthen pot,
+containing ashes and three gold necklaces. In the
+third were some fragments of pottery. Three gold
+necklaces, composed each of a single plate of metal,
+an inch and a half wide, with fragments of the
+earthen vessels in which they were found, together
+with stone celts and some pieces of bronze, extracted
+from the dolmen, we afterwards saw exhibited in the
+"Mus�e du Travail" of the Universal Exhibition of
+1867. These dolmens belong to a much later period
+of civilisation than those of Locmariaker&mdash;to the
+"Bronze" Age.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 40. Dolmen of Corcorro.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image40.jpg">
+    <head>40. Dolmen of Corcorro.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The number of dolmens in the Morbihan is estimated
+at 250. In the department of Finist�re they
+are set at double the number. All are supposed to
+have been originally covered with earth. The bodies
+<pb n="181"/><anchor id="Pg181"/>
+are more frequently buried than burnt. The dolmens
+contain implements of stone and bone, occasionally
+gold and bronze, but never iron. To judge from
+the comparative quantities found in the different
+departments, it may be assumed that they are the
+work of people who have entered France from the
+west, and have gradually worked their way by the
+rivers and valleys further up the country. In this
+secluded spot we found a large English family
+located, ten in number; they had been living there
+several months. Before reaching Erdeven, at Kerserho,
+on a large lande or heathy plain, we arrived
+at another series of the great Carnac army of stones,
+of which they are a continuation. They are arranged
+in nine parallel rows, as may be clearly distinguished
+by standing upon one of the stones; but the lines
+are rather interrupted by hedges and ditches. Some
+are menhirs planted vertically on the end, others
+enormous blocks simply laid upon the soil. They
+extend half a league from north to south, more
+numerous than Carnac, but generally not so tall, the
+highest from ten to twelve feet, but very large. The
+road is strewed with Druidic monuments. At Corcorro,
+between Plouharnel and Erdeven, on a farm,
+a short distance off the road, is a dolmen, the largest
+in the Morbihan. Its original length appears to
+have been 45 feet; the part preserved is 24 feet by
+12 feet wide, and is covered with two slabs: one of
+<pb n="182"/><anchor id="Pg182"/>
+these is enormous, about six feet wide. It is used as
+a cart-shed, and, when we saw it, contained bundles
+of hemp and a hemp-breaker. One of the top
+stones overhangs the others, showing the dolmen
+to have been originally larger. A number of ragged
+children clustered upon the top, as if they had been
+accustomed to group themselves for a picture. They
+effectually prevented any of us sketching the dolmen,
+for, as soon as we began to draw, they all, in
+number about forty, came down from their height and
+pressed closely around us. From Auray we took a
+<pb n="183"/><anchor id="Pg183"/>
+carriage to Vannes, a tidal port, one league from the
+gulf of Morbihan, and capital of that department.</p>
+
+<p>Its people, the Veneti, were the head of the
+Armorican confederation, and commanded the fleet
+in time of war. Their vessels had sails of prepared
+skins, their cables were chains of iron. They traded
+with the Scilly Islands, and brought back tin, copper,
+skins, slaves, and dogs, objects of traffic with other
+nations. The Armorican confederation made a
+vigorous resistance against C�sar, who sent round
+for the Roman fleet and beat them in a naval battle
+in the Morbihan sea. The Romans had attached
+to their ships large sharp scythes which mowed down
+masts and rigging, and a dead calm rendering the
+enemy's ships immovable, they were soon taken,
+burnt, or sunk. This battle ended the war with the
+maritime states of the west. C�sar showed little
+mercy to the conquered: all the senators were put
+to death, and the rest of the population sold by
+auction to furnish the slave-markets of Italy.</p>
+
+<p>We walked to the promenade, called the "Garenne,"
+where Sombreuil, Ren�e de Herc�, bishop
+of Dol, and twenty-two others of the emigrants,
+were shot. Sombreuil was about twenty-six or
+twenty-seven years of age, a native of P�rigord. He
+always persisted in the same account of the capitulation.
+His last words were:-"Si j'avais pu imaginer
+que des militaires pussent manquer � leur parole
+<pb n="184"/><anchor id="Pg184"/>
+donn�e sur le champ de bataille, je n'aurais jamais
+consenti � une capitulation; elle me cause des regrets
+amers qui me suivront jusqu'au tombeau. Adieu,
+Messieurs, nous trouverons justice et cl�mence devant
+un tribunal o� la fraude des hommes ne saurait
+jamais parvenir." A republican officer offered to bandage
+his eyes: "Non," he exclaimed, "je veux voir
+mon ennemi jusqu'au dernier instant." Requested
+to kneel, Sombreuil answered: "Je le veux bien;
+mais je fais observer que je mets un genou pour
+mon Dieu, et l'autre pour mon roi." Thus ended
+the most ill-fated expedition that history has ever had
+to record.</p>
+
+<p>The cathedral of Vannes has a richly-sculptured
+north porch of Kersanton stone, and another, facing
+the Rue des Trois Duchesses. Also, a Renaissance
+chapel, called the Chapelle du Saint Sacrament or
+du Pardon, with a hideous roof replacing the original.
+Adjoining are the remains of the elegant cloisters of
+the cathedral, with basket-handled arcades of the
+fifteenth century. In the cathedral is also the chapel
+of St. Vincent Ferrier, the great preacher of the
+fifteenth century, whose labours extended over
+almost every country of Europe&mdash;Italy, Germany,
+France, Switzerland, and Great Britain. San Vicente
+Ferrar, a Dominican monk, was the son of an attorney,
+originally of Valencia, in Spain, of which city
+he is the tutelar saint. In Spain he led the way in
+<pb n="185"/><anchor id="Pg185"/>
+preaching a crusade against the Jews and Moors,
+who were persecuted by the Inquisition with the
+most cruel bigotry. Invited to Brittany by Duke
+John V., he fixed himself at Vannes, where, after
+having evangelised the province, he died in 1419.
+He was buried in the cathedral. The Duchess
+Jeanne de France, daughter of Charles VI., was
+present at his deathbed, and insisted on laying him
+out. By her own desire, she was buried at his feet.
+Philip II., King of Spain, desired his relics, but did
+not succeed in obtaining them. The little house in
+which St. Vincent Ferrier lived is preserved (No. 13,
+Rue des Orf�vres). A tiny room, up a narrow staircase,
+is now converted into a chapel, in which are
+shown the stone which served him as a pillow, his
+lamp, and other relics.</p>
+
+<p>The Maison du Parlement or Ch�teau Gaillau is
+a curious old building, with its entrance by a stone
+staircase and turret. Vannes was the usual residence
+of Dukes John IV. and V., and had formerly three
+ch�teaux: La Motte, of which the H�tel de la Pr�fecture
+occupies the site; Plaisance, half a mile out
+of the town, where Duke Francis I. died; and La
+Hermine, scene of John IV.'s treacherous imprisonment
+of the Constable Clisson, which was razed in
+1614. It had two towers&mdash;one demolished in 1770, the
+other still standing, called the "Tour du Conn�table,"
+because it was within its walls he imprisoned Clisson.
+<pb n="186"/><anchor id="Pg186"/>
+The Duke had resolved on his death, to prevent the
+marriage of Clisson's daughter Marguerite to Jean
+de Bretagne, Count de Penthi�vre, son of Charles
+of Blois.<note place="foot">
+Jean and his brother were twenty-eight years in captivity
+in England. The King offered them their liberty, if they
+would acknowledge him as their suzerain lord; but they would
+not buy their freedom at the expense of their allegiance to the
+King of France, who had always been the friend of their house.
+His brother died in prison: Jean was ransomed through the
+medium of Robert de Vere, Duke of Ireland, by the Constable
+Clisson, that he might marry his daughter; but he only
+exchanged his captivity to pass the remainder of his days
+in wars against his suzerain, to gratify the ambition and resentments
+of his wife.</note> The story is well related by d'Argentr�.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke of Brittany summoned his barons and
+knights to a council at Vannes, and entertained them
+in the Castle de la Motte. He behaved in the most
+friendly manner, and invited the Constable, the
+Lords of Laval and de Beaumanoir, to see the castle
+of Hermine he was building. He led the Constable
+by the hand through the chambers, and when they
+arrived at the keep, said, "Sir Oliver, there's not a
+man who understands masonry so well as yourself;
+enter and examine the walls well, and if you say it is
+properly built, it shall remain." The unsuspecting
+Constable ascended the staircase, when the door was
+closed upon him and he was seized and loaded with
+three pairs of fetters. The Duke ordered him to
+be put into a sack, his hands and feet tied, and to be
+<pb n="187"/><anchor id="Pg187"/>
+thrown secretly at night into the sea. But the Constable
+owed his life to the loyalty of Jean Bazvalen,
+who, like another Hubert, did not obey his master's
+commands, the laws of his sovereign being less sacred
+in his eyes than the dictates of humanity and honour.
+Clisson was set at liberty, on agreeing to pay 100,000
+livres and to surrender the town of Jugon and some
+other fortresses. This perfidious attempt occasioned
+a war of three years, and was retaliated by Clisson's
+daughter and grandsons upon Duke John V.</p>
+
+<p>The Tour du Conn�table, which formed the north-east
+angle of the Ch�teau de la Hermine, is now
+used as a museum of Celtic antiquities, and contains
+various objects collected in the tumuli of the Morbihan.
+We observed one very large jade celt, eighteen
+inches long, found, we understood, in the Butte de
+Tumiac. At Vannes the States of Brittany held
+their sittings, and here took place the union of that
+province with France, 1532.</p>
+
+<p>About twelve miles from Vannes is Korn-er-ho�t,
+demesne of the Princess Baciocchi, cousin of the
+Emperor. It was formerly surrounded by woods
+and the interminable lande of Lanvaux, which
+stretches its desolate length along the Morbihan
+from Baud to Rochefort. This district had been,
+from time immemorial, the abode of some eighty
+families of gipsies, who lived there in clay huts under
+the rule of a chieftain. The sight of this barren
+<pb n="188"/><anchor id="Pg188"/>
+wilderness had so impressed the Princess Baciocchi,
+in a tour she made in Brittany in the year 1857, that
+she obtained the sanction of the Emperor to reclaim
+it. She caused a temporary ch�let to be built for
+her occupation at Kern-er-ho�t, and, superintending
+the works herself, in a few years effected a wonderful
+transformation. A model village has been formed,
+with church and schools, a well-ordered agricultural
+population organised, farm-buildings erected, roads
+macadamised, the barren lande drained and reclaimed,
+and the ch�teau surrounded by a well-wooded park.</p>
+
+<p>Great attention has been paid to the details of the
+dairy farm; all the disposable milk is made into
+Dutch cheese. The cows are those of Brittany and
+Ayrshire; the pigs from England. The whole demesne
+comprises about 1300 acres, and the benevolent
+Princess resides entirely on the scene of her
+labours, among the people whose condition she has
+so ameliorated.<note place="foot">The Princess is since dead.</note></p>
+
+<p>From Vannes we made an excursion into the
+peninsula of Rhuys, on the south of the Morbihan
+Sea. We first stopped at Sarzeau, where Lesage,
+the amiable author of 'Gil Blas,' was born, of whom
+it was written on his epitaph:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">S'il ne fut pas ami de la fortune,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Il fut toujours ami de la vertu.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Then on to the ducal fortress of Sucinio, situated
+<pb n="189"/><anchor id="Pg189"/>
+on the borders of the ocean. It is a magnificent
+ruin, built in 1250, by Duke Jean le Roux, to
+deposit his treasures, in case an invasion of the
+French should compel him to leave his duchy.
+The position is well chosen, its situation on the seashore
+enabling him easily to embark his treasures.</p>
+
+<p>This formidable "coffre fort" was a favourite
+residence of the Dukes of Brittany, who came here
+as a relief from the cares and ceremonies of a Court.
+Its name, of which Sucinio is a corruption, Soucy-ny-ot,
+synonymous with the Sans-Souci of the great
+Frederick, shows its intention. This locality was
+long celebrated for its fine air, and its peaceful character.
+Louis XIV. used to say to his courtiers&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">D�sirez vous un pays de repos et de d�lices?</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Allez habiter l'�le de Rhuys.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Partly demolished, Sucinio presents a mass of
+now only picturesque ruins, a curious type of the
+architecture of the thirteenth century. Five of
+the eight enormous battlemented towers remain, and
+the flamboyant window of the chapel on the upper
+floor of the building is still preserved. Traces of
+the portcullis and drawbridge are visible. Over the
+gallery is an escutcheon, with a couchant lion
+holding the arms of Brittany, between two stags,
+also couchant, at the foot of a tree. The sea that
+<pb n="190"/><anchor id="Pg190"/>
+bathed the walls of the castle has been driven back
+by the accumulation of mud and the crumbling of
+the walls.</p>
+
+<p>Here was born Arthur III., Comte de Richemont,
+Constable of France, and afterwards Duke of Brittany.
+This illustrious man, equally great as a
+warrior and politician, does not take his merited
+place in the page of history, owing probably to the
+partiality of French historians, who were always
+jealous of the glory of Brittany. Except Du
+Guesclin, no other constable has rendered greater
+service to France.</p>
+
+<p>A prisoner at Agincourt, where he commanded
+the van, he fought with the Maid of Orleans,<note place="foot">
+Jeanne had at first a great aversion to Richemont, as he
+ridiculed the idea of the army being commanded by a woman.
+Dunois effected a reconciliation. Richemont said to the maid&mdash;"Jeanne,
+on me dit que vous voulez me combattre. Je ne
+sais pas si vous �tes de par Dieu ou non: si vous �tes de par
+Dieu, je ne vous crains en rien; si vous �tes de par le Diable,
+je vous crains encore moins." It was through her mediation
+he became reconciled to the King (1429). Two years afterwards
+she was executed.</note> at Beaugeney, took Talbot captive at Patai,
+reconquered almost the whole of Normandy, entered
+Paris in 1436, and finally expelled the English by
+the crushing victory of Formigny, having staked
+his honour to drive them out of the kingdom.
+<pb n="191"/><anchor id="Pg191"/>
+Seven years after, he succeeded to the ducal crown;
+but such was the confidence of Charles VII. in his
+loyalty, that he retained the supreme command of
+the French army with his new dignity. He reigned
+only fourteen months. Richmont always caused
+two swords to be carried before him when he appeared
+in presence of the King; a naked sword, as
+Duke of Brittany, and the other sheathed and the
+point turned downwards, as Constable of France.
+The title of Earl of Richmond, styled by the French
+Comte de Richmont, dates from the Conqueror.
+Alan Rufus, son of the Earl of Brittany, accompanied
+Duke William to England, and commanded
+the rear of the army at the battle of Hastings. For
+these services, he was rewarded with the hand of the
+Conqueror's daughter, and all that northern part
+of Yorkshire, now called Richmondshire, where
+he built, on the river Swale, the town and castle
+of Richmond.  The title passed through Alice,
+daughter of Constance of Brittany, to Pierre de
+Dreux, and descended through him to all the Dukes
+of his house, until John IV., having gone over to
+the King of France, was deprived of the earldom by
+Act of Parliament, in the reign of King Richard II.;
+but Henry IV. again conferred the title upon his
+stepson Arthur, afterwards the celebrated Constable
+and Duke of Brittany.</p>
+<pb n="192"/><anchor id="Pg192"/>
+
+<p>We returned to breakfast at Sarzeau; then on to
+the Abbey of St. Gildas de Rhuys, founded on this
+inaccessible coast by St. Gildas, an English saint, the
+schoolfellow and friend of St. Samson of Dol and St.
+Pol de L�on, and which counted among its monks our
+Saxon St. Dunstan, who, carried by pirates from his
+native isle, settled on the desolate shores of Brittany,
+and became, under the name of St. Goustan, the
+patron of mariners.</p>
+
+<p>St. Gildas built his abbey on the edge of a high
+rocky promontory, the site of an ancient Roman
+encampment, called Grand Mont, facing the shore,
+where the sea has formed numerous caverns in its
+rocks. They are composed chiefly of quartz, and
+are covered to a great height with innumerable
+small mussels. The tide was too high to admit of
+our entering into any of the grottoes, but the piles
+of dark rocks beaten into every form by the violence
+of the waves, rising sometimes to the height of
+sixty feet, are very imposing. St. Gildas, in the
+twelfth century, had Abelard for superior, who, on
+his appointment, made over to Eloise the celebrated
+abbey he had founded at Nogent, near Troyes,
+which he called the Paraclete or Comforter, because
+he there found comfort and refreshment after his
+troubles, but his peace soon ended on his arrival in
+Brittany. His gentle nature was unable to contend
+<pb n="193"/><anchor id="Pg193"/>
+against these coarse, ferocious, unruly, Breton
+monks. As he writes in his well-known letter to
+Eloise, setting forth his griefs:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p rend="small">
+<q>J'habite un pays barbare, dont la langue m'est inconnue et
+en horreur: je n'ai de commerce qu'avec des peuples f�roces;
+mes promenades sont les bords inaccessibles d'une mer agit�e;
+mes moines n'ont d'autre r�gle que n'en point avoir. Je
+voudrais que vous vissiez ma maison, vous ne la prendriez
+jamais pour une abbaye: les portes ne sont orn�es que de
+pieds de biche, de loups et d'ours, de sangliers, des d�pouilles
+hideuses des hiboux. J'�prouve chaque jour de nouveaux
+p�rils; je crois � tout moment voir sur ma t�te un glaive
+suspendu.</q>
+</p>
+
+<p>But if Abelard hated the monks, they equally
+detested him, and one day tried to poison him, but
+he escaped through a gate in the garden wall, still
+pointed out, to the sea shore, where his friend and protector,
+the Count de Rhuys, awaited him in a boat.</p>
+
+<p>The abbey is now in the occupation of twelve
+sisters of the "Charit� de St. Louis," who have a
+school for poor girls, and, in the summer, take in
+families to board who come here for the benefit of
+the bracing air of this fine wild coast. There is a
+kind of establishment for bathing in the little bay
+below the abbey. The board and lodging is moderate,
+three francs and a half a day, wine, tea, and
+sugar, not included. Boys are admitted up to
+thirteen, but the men are sent into the town.</p>
+
+<p>Part of the abbey church is Romanesque: a semi-circular
+choir, with three round chapels and the
+<pb n="194"/><anchor id="Pg194"/>
+transepts. The nave and tower are of modern date.
+The pavement is covered with tumulary stones.
+Four children of Duke John III. le Roux are buried
+here, and one of Joan of Navarre and John IV.
+In the Treasury are several pieces of plate, among
+which is a Renaissance chalice, with six canopied
+statuettes of Apostles forming the knop; and a cross
+of the same period, a ch�sse of St. Gildas, his head
+and arm both encased in silver reliquaries.  His
+tomb is in the church.  Encrusted in the wall
+outside the church are the figures of two knights
+on horseback in mailed armour, conical Norman
+helmets, long pointed shields, and lances in the
+attitude of combat. The church and convent of
+St. Gildas belonged to the family of Bisson, whose
+self-devotion is commemorated by a statue at
+Lorient. He passed here many years of his early
+life, and wishing to preserve the buildings from ruin,
+gave them as a present to the parish. St. Gildas
+is called by the Bretons St. Feltas. There is a rude
+coloured print in the church relative to the legend
+of Comorre, or Comor, the Breton "Blue Beard," in
+which St. Gildas plays a conspicuous part. The
+story, as told by Emile Souvestre, is this:&mdash;Guerech,
+Count of Vannes, the country of white corn, had a
+daughter, Triphyna, whom he tenderly loved. One
+day, ambassadors arrived from Comorre, a Prince
+of Cornouaille, the country of the black corn, demanding
+<pb n="195"/><anchor id="Pg195"/>
+her in marriage. Now this caused great
+distress, for Comorre was a giant, and one of the
+wickedest of men, held in awe by every one for his
+cruelty. As a boy, when he went out, his mother
+used to ring a bell to warn people of his approach.
+He shot a child in order to prove his gun; and,
+when unsuccessful in the chase, would set his dogs
+on the peasants to tear them in pieces. But most
+horrible of all, he had had four wives, who all died
+one after the other, under suspicion of having been
+killed by either the knife, fire, water, or poison.
+The Count of Vannes, therefore, dismissed the
+ambassadors, and advanced to meet Comorre, who
+was approaching with a powerful army; but St.
+Gildas went into her oratory, and begged Triphyna
+would save bloodshed, and consent to the marriage.
+He gave her a silver ring, which would warn her
+of any intended evil, by turning, at the approach of
+danger, as black as the crow's wing. The marriage
+took place with great rejoicings. The first day six
+thousand guests were invited; on the next as many
+poor were fed, the bride and the bridegroom serving
+at table, a napkin under their arms.  For some
+time, all went on well. Comorre's nature seemed
+changed, his prisons were empty, his gibbets untenanted;
+but Triphyna felt no confidence, and every
+day went to pray at the tombs of his four wives.
+At this time there was an assembly at Rennes of the
+<pb n="196"/><anchor id="Pg196"/>
+Breton Princes, which Comorre was obliged to
+attend. Before his departure, he gave Triphyna
+the keys, desiring her to amuse herself in his absence.
+After five months he unexpectedly returned, and
+found her occupied in trimming an infant's cap with
+gold lace.  On seeing the cap, Comorre turned
+pale; and when Triphyna joyfully announced to him
+that in two months he would be a father, he drew
+back in a rage and rushed out of the apartment.
+Triphyna saw that her ring had turned black, which
+betokened danger, she knew not why. She descended
+into the chapel to pray; when she rose to
+depart it was midnight, and she saw the four tombs
+of Comorre's wives open slowly, and they all issued
+forth in their winding-sheets. Half dead with fear,
+Triphyna tried to escape; but the spectres cried,
+"Take care, poor lost one! Comorre seeks to kill
+you." "I," says the Countess, "what evil have I
+done?"&mdash;"You have told him that you will soon
+become a mother; and, through the Spirit of Evil,
+he knows that his child will kill him, and that is
+why he has murdered us, when we told him what
+he has just learned from you." "What hope then
+of escape remains for me," cried Triphyna."&mdash;"Go
+back to your father," answered the phantoms.
+"But how escape when Comorre's dog guards the
+court?"&mdash;"Give him this poison which killed me,"
+said the first wife." "But how can I descend this
+<pb n="197"/><anchor id="Pg197"/>
+high wall?"&mdash;"By means of this cord which
+strangled me," answered the second wife. "But
+who will guide me through the dark?"&mdash;"The
+fire which burnt me," replied the third wife. "And
+how can I make so long a journey?" returned
+Triphyna.&mdash;"Take this stick which broke my
+skull," rejoined the fourth spectre. Armed with
+these weapons, Triphyna sets out, silences the dog,
+scales the wall, sees her way through the darkness,
+and proceeds on her road to Vannes. On awakening
+next morning, Comorre finds his wife fled, and
+pursues her on horseback. The poor fugitive, seeing
+her ring turn black, turned off the road and hid
+herself till night in the cabin of a shepherd, where
+was only an old magpie in a cage at the door.
+Comorre, who had given up the pursuit, was returning
+home that road, when he heard the magpie
+trying to imitate her complaints, and calling out
+"Poor Triphyna!" he therefore knew his wife had
+passed that way, and set his dog on the track.
+Meanwhile, Triphyna felt she could proceed no
+further, and laid down on the ground, where she
+brought into the world a boy of marvellous beauty.
+As she clasped him to her arms, she saw over her
+head a falcon with a golden collar, which she recognised
+as her father's. The bird came to her call,
+and giving it the warning ring of St. Gildas, she
+told it to fly with it to her father. The bird obeyed
+<pb n="198"/><anchor id="Pg198"/>
+and flew with it like lightning to Vannes; but,
+almost at the same instant, Comorre arrived; having
+parted with her warning ring, Triphyna, who had
+no notice of his approach, had only time to
+conceal her babe in the cavity of a tree, when
+Comorre threw himself upon his unhappy wife, and
+with one blow severed her head from her body.
+When the falcon arrived at Vannes, he found the
+King at dinner with St. Gildas; he let the ring fall
+into the silver cup of his master, who recognising it,
+exclaimed, "My daughter is in danger; saddle the
+horses, and let St. Gildas accompany us." Following
+the falcon, they soon reached the spot where
+Triphyna lay dead. After they had all knelt in
+prayer, St. Gildas said to the corpse, "Arise, take
+thy head and thy child, and follow us." The dead
+body obeyed, the bewildered troop followed; but,
+gallop as fast as they could, the headless body was
+always in front, carrying the babe in her left hand,
+and her pale head in the right. In this manner,
+they reached the castle of Comorre. "Count,"
+says St. Gildas, "I bring back your wife such as
+your wickedness has made her, and thy child such
+as Heaven has given it thee. Wilt thou receive
+them under thy roof?" Comorre was silent. The
+Saint three times repeated the question, but no
+voice returned an answer. Then St. Gildas took
+the new-born infant from its mother, and placed it
+<pb n="199"/><anchor id="Pg199"/>
+on the ground. The child marched alone to the
+edge of the moat, and picking up a handful of
+earth, and throwing it against the castle, exclaimed,
+"Let the Trinity execute judgment." At the same
+instant the towers shook and fell with a great crash;
+the walls yawned open and the castle sunk, burying
+Comorre and all his fellow partners in crime. St.
+Gildas then replaced Triphyna's head upon her
+shoulders, laid his hands upon her, and restored her
+to life, to the great joy of her father.&mdash;Such is the
+history of Triphyna and Comorre.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back to Vannes we saw on our left
+the Butte de Tumiac, or Butte d'Arzon, the largest
+tumulus of the Morbihan. It was opened in 1853,
+and found to enclose a chamber full of pulverised
+bones and various curious objects. From Vannes
+we also visited the stately castle of Elven, about four
+miles from the station of that name; not built on a
+lofty site, for, in the fifteenth century, the barons
+had descended from their heights to places more
+convenient of access, and where water was more
+easily obtained. The Breton feudal lords of Rohan,
+Rieux, Clisson, and Penthi�vre, no longer required
+fortified places as means of defence against the
+French and English, but, in consequence of their
+own internal divisions, to defend them in their wars
+with their duke or among themselves. The castle
+of Elven is situated in an insulated coppice wood, in
+<pb n="200"/><anchor id="Pg200"/>
+the midst of the lande of Elven. It was the chief
+place of the lordship of l'Argo�t (in Breton, "upon
+the wood"), and is also called the fortress of Largo�t.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 41. Castle of Elven.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image41.jpg">
+    <head>41. Castle of Elven.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The ruins, which occupy a large enclosure, consist
+chiefly of two towers; the principal one, 130 feet
+high, is octagonal; the other, which is not above
+100 feet in height, is split from top to bottom. The
+<pb n="201"/><anchor id="Pg201"/>
+battlemented walls are nearly 20 feet thick at the
+base. A wide deep moat surrounded the castle, and
+it was furnished with subterranean passages and
+everything requisite to make it a model of the military
+architecture of the fifteenth century. The
+donjon has two granite staircases; one leads to the
+top, whence may be seen Vannes and the Morbihan,
+with its islands. Here, in 1793, the Royalists established
+signals. In the castle of Elven, Henry of
+Richmond, then only fifteen, with his uncle, Jasper
+Tudor, Earl of Pembroke, were detained by Duke
+Francis II. for fifteen years. Fugitives after Tewkesbury,
+they were thrown by a tempest upon the shores
+of Brittany. Henry was claimed both by King
+Edward IV. and Louis XI., and was kept by Duke
+Francis as a pledge of the good faith of Edward
+towards Brittany. Perhaps also Francis may have
+entertained some ill-feeling towards Henry from his
+bearing the title of Earl of Richmond, which had
+been held for more than three hundred years by the
+Dukes of Brittany. Francis revived the claim to
+the title which Henry VI. had conferred (1452) on
+Edward Tudor, father of Henry. Subsequently, on
+the assurance of the King of England that he only
+required the release of Henry to invest him with the
+Order of the Garter and to give him his daughter,
+the Princess Elizabeth, in marriage, Duke Francis
+made over the Prince to the English Ambassador,
+<pb n="202"/><anchor id="Pg202"/>
+and he was about to embark at St. Malo for England,
+when the Duke's Grand Treasurer (Landais) arrived,
+warned Henry of his danger, and helped him to take
+refuge in the sanctuary of the church, whence he
+afterwards withdrew him again to place him in
+honourable captivity for twelve more years, till King
+Edward's death. A party being formed in England,
+aided by the Duchess of Brittany, Fran�oise de Foix,
+Henry attempted a descent; but the plan being discovered,
+after seeing the English coast, Henry was
+obliged to return to Brittany and his ships were
+scattered in a storm.  Again within his power,
+Landais listened to the offers of King Richard III.,
+and agreed to give him up; but Henry, informed in
+time, left Vannes, threw himself into the forest, and
+escaped to France, where he obtained from the regent,
+Anne de Beaujeu, the assistance which enabled him
+to mount the English throne.</p>
+
+<p>The castle of Elven, with those of Rieux and
+Rochefort, belonged to the Mar�chal de Rieux.
+Elven was rebuilt by him with the materials of the
+old; but they were all dismantled by the orders of
+the Duchess Anne in 1496, to punish her guardian
+for his revolt. Yet Rieux acted as he thought best
+for the welfare of his late master and his daughter,
+whose cause he defended against the interested views
+of the King of France. Rieux had that keen sense
+of honour which is one of the characteristics of the
+<pb n="203"/><anchor id="Pg203"/>
+Breton gentleman. When he reproached Anne de
+Beaujeu, regent, to her brother Charles VIII., for
+having instigated the King to attack Nantes, contrary
+to his engagements, Anne replied, "He had no
+written promise." "Et quoi, Madame!" he indignantly
+exclaimed; "la parole d'un roy, ne vaut elle
+pas mille scellez?" Louis de Rieux, the last of the
+race, was shot on the Champs des Martyrs. True
+to the motto of his house, "A toute heure, Rieux,"
+he showed himself ready "at any hour" to die for
+the altar and the throne.</p>
+
+<p>Elven is the scene of M. Octave Feuillet's "Roman
+d'un jeune Homme pauvre;" and the keeper who
+shows the ruins points out the spot whence the
+"Hero of Romance" took the leap to prove his
+loyalty, and which gained him the hand of the lady.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we started early by rail to Questembert,
+to meet the diligence for Plo�rmel, twenty
+miles from this station, passing through Malestroit.
+We saw quantities of chestnuts on our road, and
+were told they were largely exported to England.
+They come principally from the neighbourhood of
+Redon and other places in the department of Ile-et-Vilaine,
+where they grow as abundantly as described
+by Madame de Sevign�, when writing from the
+Ch�teau des Roches, in the same department:
+"Pour nous, ce sont des ch�taignes qui font notre
+ornement. J'en avois l'autre jour trois au quatre
+<pb n="204"/><anchor id="Pg204"/>
+paniers autour de moi. J'en fis bouillir, j'en fis r�tir,
+j'en mis dans mes poches, on en sert dans les plats,
+on marche dessus, c'est la Bretagne dans son triomphe."</p>
+
+<p>Plo�rmel derives its name (plo-ermel, land or
+territory of Armel) from an anchorite of the sixth
+century, who treated a dragon which ravaged the
+country in the time of King Childebert in the same
+manner as St. Pol de L�on disposed of the monster
+at Batz.</p>
+
+<p>The fa�ade of the church of Saint Armel has a
+number of grotesque carvings&mdash;the sow playing the
+bagpipes, the cobbler sewing up the mouth of his
+wife, &amp;c.; but it is principally remarkable for its
+eight painted windows of the sixteenth century,
+lately restored, and the monumental effigies of two
+Dukes of Brittany; the one, John II., who was killed
+at Lyons, where he went to settle some differences
+with his clergy, on the occasion of the coronation of
+Pope Clement V. A wall, loaded with spectators,
+fell, and the Duke was crushed in its ruins; the Pope
+escaped with being only thrown from his mule.</p>
+
+<p>The other effigy is that of Duke John III., or the
+Good, whose death was the signal for the War of
+Succession. He died at Caen. These tombs were
+formerly in the Carmelite convent founded by
+John II., who, on his return from the Holy Land,
+established the first Carmelite convent in Brittany,
+<pb n="205"/><anchor id="Pg205"/>
+and brought monks from Mount Carmel to inhabit
+it.</p>
+
+<p>The tombs were destroyed in the Revolution, but
+the two statues were saved. They are of white
+marble, and are placed on a monumental slab, side
+by side, with this inscription: "De tous temps la
+fid�lit� Bretonne rendit hommage � ses souverains."
+Duke John II. is represented in a hauberk of mail,
+the hood turned back, with cotte d'armes, shield,
+and sword. Duke John III. has his head encircled
+by the ducal crown, his hair long, his genouilli�res,
+cuissarts, &amp;c., of plate armour. His shield and cotte
+d'armes are sem� of ermines, and by his side is the
+dagger of mis�ricorde, which served to kill the fallen
+enemy unless he cried for mercy. When James II.
+passed through Plo�rmel after the Battle of the
+Boyne, a fugitive and a dethroned monarch, the
+Carmelite monks would not take him in; but he
+found in the little village of Penfra the hospitality
+they had refused him. Here is an establishment,
+directed by a brother of Lamennais, the celebrated
+author of 'Paroles d'un Croyant,' where people of all
+nations&mdash;Indians, negroes from Senegambia, and
+others&mdash;are educated and taught trades of every
+kind, and sent back to their own countries.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 42. Column of the Thirty.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image42.jpg">
+    <head>42. Column of the Thirty.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The people about Plo�rmel and Josselin speak
+French instead of Breton, the prevailing language of
+the Morbihan department. It is nearly seven miles
+<pb n="206"/><anchor id="Pg206"/>
+between Plo�rmel and Josselin. Equally distant
+from each, at Mi-voie, in the centre of a star formed
+by avenues of firs and cypresses, is an obelisk set up
+to commemorate the famous "Combat des Trente,"
+which took place on this spot in 1351, and on which
+are inscribed the names of the thirty who fought on
+the French side. It was during that period of the
+War of Succession when hostilities were carried on
+by the two Jeannes, Marshal Beaumanoir, the Breton
+<pb n="207"/><anchor id="Pg207"/>
+commander of the garrison of Josselin for Jeanne
+de Penthi�vre, gave a challenge to Bembro', as he
+is called, the English captain who held Plo�rmel for
+Jeanne de Montfort and her infant son, in consequence
+of an alleged infraction by the latter of a
+truce, agreed upon between the Kings of France
+and England, in which it had been stipulated that
+the peasants and those not bearing arms should be
+unmolested. In spite of this compact, the English
+soldiers devastated the country and committed every
+kind of excess. Jean de Beaumanoir repaired to
+Plo�rmel to remonstrate, and it was agreed to settle
+the dispute by a fight between thirty warriors from
+each camp. The prophecies of Merlin were consulted,
+and found to promise victory to the English.
+The appointed place of meeting was by a large oak,
+the "Ch�ne de Mi-Voie," on a lande or large plain,
+half way from each town. The battle began with
+great fury, at first to the disadvantage of the Bretons,
+when Bembro' was killed, which threw dismay among
+the English; but a German, who succeeded in the
+command, rallied their courage, and the mel�e became
+thicker than ever. Beaumanoir was wounded,
+and his loss of blood and his long fast produced a
+burning thirst, and he asked for water. "Bois ton
+sang, Beaumanoir, ta soif se passera," was the reply of
+Geoffroy du Bois; and Beaumanoir, forgetting his
+thirst and his wound, continued the fight. The
+<pb n="208"/><anchor id="Pg208"/>
+English kept their ranks close, till Guillaume de
+Montauban broke them by a stratagem and threw
+them into confusion. He mounted his horse and
+pretended to fly, then suddenly turned upon the
+English with such force that he threw seven down
+and broke their ranks:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Grande fut la bataille et longuement dura:</q></l>
+<l>Et le chapple (carnage) horrible est de�� et del�;</l>
+<l>La chaleur fut moult grande, chacun si tressua (sua);</l>
+<l>De s&oelig;ur et de sang la terre rosoya (rougit).</l>
+<l>A ce bon samedi Beaumanoir si jeuna;</l>
+<l>Grand soif eut le baron, � boire demanda;</l>
+<l>Messire Geoffrey du Bois tant�t r�pondu a:</l>
+<l>'Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, la soif te passera;</l>
+<l>Ce jour aurons honneur, chacun si gagnera</l>
+<l>Vaillante renomm�e, ja bl�me ne sera.'&mdash;</l>
+<l>Beaumanoir le vaillant adonc s'�vertua,</l>
+<l>Tel deuil eut et telle ire que la soif lui passa;</l>
+<l>Et d'un c�t� et d'autre le chapple commen�a:</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Morts furent ou bless�s, gu�res n'en �chappa.</q>&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh Calverly Croquart,
+and others were made prisoners, and thus ended the
+Battle of the Thirty; gained, however, in a most disloyal
+manner, Montauban getting the aid of a horse,
+when all the other combatants fought on foot.</p>
+
+<p>The Breton knights returned to Josselin, their
+helmets decorated with branches of the broom&mdash;</p>
+
+<p rend="display"><q>In every basnet a bright broom flower;</q></p>
+
+<p>the place where the battle was fought running,
+according to the French poem,</p>
+
+<p rend="display"><q>Le long d'une g�netaie qui �tait verte et belle.</q></p>
+<pb n="209"/><anchor id="Pg209"/>
+
+<p>Josselin is celebrated for its ch�teau, where died,
+1407, Olivier du Clisson, the contemporary and
+brother of arms of Du Guesclin, whom he succeeded
+in the dignity of Constable of France, which no one
+for some time would accept, not thinking themselves
+worthy of replacing him. Both differed widely in
+position and character. Du Guesclin, though of a
+noble family, had not the advantage of fortune like
+Clisson, who had immense wealth and landed possessions,
+which made him a kind of sovereign in the
+duchy. He willed away a million of money. Clisson
+was a statesman, Du Guesclin's sole glory was in
+arms. Clisson was cruel, intriguing, and insatiable
+for riches; Du Guesclin was humane, loyal, and disinterested.
+Both were equal in bravery and physical
+force: the lance of Du Guesclin and the axe of
+Clisson<note place="foot">
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Olivier du Clisson dans la battelle va</q></l>
+<l>Et tenant une martel qu'� ses deux mains porta,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Tout ainsi qu'un boucher abbatit et versa.</q></l>
+<l rend="right">MS. <title rend="smallcaps">Chronicles of Bertrand du Guesclin.</title></l>
+</lg></note>
+carried all before them. Clisson joined
+with Du Guesclin in freeing the country from the
+"Great Companies," and his most celebrated action
+was the defeat of the Flemings at Rosbecq. Few
+subjects have been so powerful, or have filled so
+important a part, as Olivier du Clisson. He was
+true to his sovereign after his reconciliation, and to
+<pb n="210"/><anchor id="Pg210"/>
+his children after him. John IV. had scarce closed
+his eyes when the daughter of Clisson, wife of Jean
+de Penthi�vre, came to her father and said, "It
+depends only on you that my husband receives the
+inheritance of Brittany." "How?" asked the Constable.
+"By your ridding yourself of the children
+of De Montfort." "Ah! cruel and perverse woman,"
+exclaimed Clisson; "if you live long, you will destroy
+the honour and property of your children;"
+and he accompanied his words with such violent
+menaces, that, seized with affright, she fled from his
+presence, and falling down, broke her thigh. The
+prophecy of Clisson was fulfilled, as we shall later
+relate. The ancient ch�teau in which he died was
+destroyed by Henry IV.; the present building was
+raised by Alain IX., Vicomte de Rohan, through
+Alain VIII., who married Beatrix, eldest daughter of
+the Constable, by which Josselin descended to the
+Rohans,<note place="foot">
+Their name is said to be derived from&mdash;Roh-yan-Rock-John,
+from a cadet of the family, who built his fortress on a
+rock.</note> a house yielding to none in antiquity
+and illustration, being descended from the ancient
+sovereigns of Brittany, and allied with all the crowned
+heads of Europe,&mdash;"Princes of Bretagne" they were
+styled. But the Rohan family became unpopular
+in the duchy, when John II. attached himself to
+<pb n="211"/><anchor id="Pg211"/>
+Louis XI. and France, for the bribe of 8000 livres
+to himself and 4000 to his wife.</p>
+
+<p>At the battle of St. Aubin du Cormier, which
+sealed the fate of Brittany, the Vicomte du Rohan
+betrayed his brother-in-law Duke Francis and the
+national cause, and fought on the side of France.
+He afterwards marched at the head of the French
+troops, and besieged Guingamp, where its brave
+defenders declared, "As long as there is a duchess
+in Brittany, we will not give up her towns." But
+they took Pontrieux and Concarneau, and in 1491
+the Vicomte du Rohan was appointed by Charles VIII.
+Lieutenant-General in Lower Brittany.  He was
+called by his countrymen the "Felon Prince;" and
+so detested was he and his race, that it passed into
+a proverb to say of a mean, treacherous, dishonest
+person, "Il mange � l'auge comme Rohan,"&mdash;"He
+eats at the manger (that is, the table of the King of
+France) like Rohan." "Un peu de jactance," therefore,
+justly observes Daru, in the proud motto of
+the Rohans:&mdash;<note place="foot">
+This, with "� Plus" and "Plaisance," were the Rohan
+mottoes previous to 1789.</note></p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Roi ne puis,</q></l>
+<l>Prince ne daigne,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Rohan je suis.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 43. Ch�teau of Josselin.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image43.jpg">
+    <head>43. Ch�teau of Josselin.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The ch�teau of Josselin stands by a river, on which
+side it presents piles of towers and fortifications
+<pb n="212"/><anchor id="Pg212"/>
+covered with slate, a severe specimen of military
+architecture; while on the other side, the cour
+d'honneur, we see one of the handsomest ch�teaux
+of the Renaissance yet remaining in Brittany. This
+fa�ade is richly ornamented with sculptures of varied
+and fanciful design.  Immense gurgoyles, in the
+form of serpents, stretching from the roof to the
+base, pierced <corr sic="ballustrades">balustrades</corr> or galleries of lace-like
+delicacy, in which are introduced, according to the
+fashion of the period, the initial letters of the Vicomte
+Alain, A and V interlaced. The old Rohan motto,
+"� plus," and the escutcheon of gules, nine mascles
+or lozenges, occur in every part of this gorgeous
+<pb n="213"/><anchor id="Pg213"/>
+front, and also on the finely-carved chimneypiece of
+the reception room (salle d'honneur). The whole
+of the ch�teau is in course of restoration by the
+Prince de L�on.</p>
+
+<p>In the church of Josselin is the tomb of the Constable
+Clisson, with that of Marguerite de Rohan
+his wife; both statues were mutilated in the Revolution,
+but are now restored: they are of white
+marble on a black slab. Clisson is in armour,
+Marguerite has her hair plaited and confined in
+a network of pearls; she wears a long robe, with a
+surcoat above, furred with ermine. The motto,
+"Pour ce qu'il me plest (plait)," is in an oratory
+which belonged to Clisson, expressing his haughty
+and overbearing will. This same motto appears on
+his seal, affixed to a letter preserved in the archives
+of the empire, and he is recorded to have had it
+inscribed upon his Constable's sword, which, like
+Du Guesclin, he always wore unsheathed, to show
+he was ready at all times to fight the enemies of the
+crown.</p>
+
+<p>There hangs in the church a picture of the finding
+of the image Notre Dame-du-Roncier, of which
+we relate the legend:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>Long before Josselin was a town, a poor labourer
+had remarked, on the spot where now stands the
+church of Notre Dame, a bramble bush, which the
+frost and snow of the roughest winters never deprived
+<pb n="214"/><anchor id="Pg214"/>
+of its leaves, but it always remained fresh and green.
+Surprised at this strange phenomenon, he dug the
+soil under the bramble, and discovered a wooden
+statue of the Virgin. A marvellous light played
+round the head of the image. The man carried it
+home; but next morning, to his surprise, he found
+the statue under the same bush whence he had taken
+it. The miracle was repeated several times, and
+soon attracted crowds of devotees. A chapel was
+built to deposit the sacred image, houses followed
+next, and a little town gradually formed, which the
+Comte de Porho�t surrounded with walls, and Josselin,
+his son, endowed with his name, 1030. Such
+was the rise of Josselin. A celebrated pilgrimage
+still exists to Josselin on Whit Tuesday, resorted to
+by crowds of "aboyeuses" or barkers, people possessed
+with this kind of epilepsy, said to be hereditary
+in several families, and which is accounted for
+from the circumstance of a party of washerwomen
+having refused a glass of water to the Vierge du
+Ron�ier, who went to them disguised in the garb of
+a beggar. The merciless creatures set their dogs
+upon the pretended mendicant, and thus brought
+down upon themselves and their posterity this fearful
+malediction. The disease is supposed to return
+periodically about Whitsuntide, and only to leave
+the afflicted when they are carried forcibly to the
+sanctuary of Notre Dame to press with their foaming
+<pb n="215"/><anchor id="Pg215"/>
+lips the fragments still remaining of the ancient
+miraculous statue which was burnt upon the public
+Place in the time of the French Revolution.</p>
+
+<p>We left Plo�rmel at four o'clock in the morning
+for Montfort-sur-Mer, passing through Pl�lan; while
+the horses baited at a little auberge we got some hot
+coffee, and found a good fire in the kitchen. The
+landlady, shut in her "lit clos," did not disturb herself,
+but occasionally put out her head to give
+directions for our breakfast. On the left of the
+road is the forest of Paimpont, which formerly extended
+from Montfort to Rostrenan, a kind of neutral
+desert land, called Broc�liande, and famous,
+under that name, in the history of King Arthur.
+It was the theatre of the fairies' most wondrous
+enchantments. Here was the fountain of Youth
+and also that of Barenton, where they came every
+day to draw water in an emerald basin. Here, too,
+the enchanted Merlin has lain sleeping for centuries,
+enthralled by his pupil the fairy Viviana, who has
+cast a spell upon her master she knows not how to
+break.</p>
+
+<p>Montfort, where we joined the railway, is celebrated
+for the legend of the duck and its ducklings,
+and was the residence of the De Montfort family
+until Guy Comte de Laval and Sire de Montfort
+married Fran�oise de Dinan, widow of the unfortunate
+Gilles de Bretagne, when the Montforts left
+<pb n="216"/><anchor id="Pg216"/>
+their paternal demesne for the ch�teaux of Laval,
+Vitr�, and Ch�teaubriant.</p>
+
+<p>The railway took us to Rennes, an uninteresting
+modern French town, the old town was burnt down
+in 1720, and straight streets have risen up, with no
+traces of its having been once the ancient capital of
+Brittany. Indeed, so French is it altogether, that
+the saying runs&mdash;"Bon Breton de Vannes, bon
+Fran�ais de Rennes." It was here that Constance,
+heiress of the duchy, held her court, with Geoffrey
+Plantagenet, who, with their unfortunate son Arthur,
+were the only Plantagenets, dukes of Brittany. On
+the murder of Arthur, his sister Alice carried the
+ducal crown to her husband, Pierre de Dreux (called
+Mauclerc, from his animosity to the clergy), and
+from them descended the dukes of Brittany down to
+Queen Anne, whose double marriage conveyed the
+duchy to France and the Valois.</p>
+
+<p>When Henry IV. made his solemn entry into
+Rennes, the Governor presented him with the three
+silver-gilt keys of the city, of rich workmanship;
+upon which the King observed, "Elles �taient
+belles, mais qu'il aimait mieux les clefs des c&oelig;urs
+des habitants."</p>
+
+<p>The following year we made a tour along the
+banks of the Loire, and at Angers embarked on
+board the steamer for Nantes. The scenery down
+the Loire is rich, and the hills covered with vineyards,
+<pb n="217"/><anchor id="Pg217"/>
+islands planted with willows, and sunny villages,
+or occasionally a gloomy fortress comes to
+view. Ingrandes is the frontier town, half in Anjou
+and half in Brittany, between the modern departments
+of Loire Inf�rieure and Maine-et-Loire.
+Lower down is St. Florent (Maine-et-Loire), with
+its recollections of the wonderful passage of the
+Loire by the Vendean army, so graphically related
+by Madame de la Rochejacquelin, and near the
+island of Meilleraie, where their brave General Bonchamps
+expired, after the fatal engagement of Chollet;
+his last act being the saving the lives of four
+thousand prisoners shut up in the church, and about
+to be executed by the exasperated Vendeans. "Gr�ce
+aux prisonniers" were his dying words. Opposite
+St. Florent is Varades, where the Vendeans landed
+after crossing the Loire. Only a feeble post opposed
+them. Had the republicans lost less time, and sent
+a force after their victory at Chollet, much calamity
+would have been spared to Brittany, and the Royalists
+themselves would have been saved the terrible
+defeats of Le Mans and Savenay.</p>
+
+<p>Passing Ancenis, which rises in an amphitheatre
+on the vine-clothed hills, and, with its suspension-bridge,
+is one of the most picturesque points in the
+river, we reached Oudon, with its tall octagonal
+tower; on the left, in the department of Maine-et-Loire,
+nearly opposite, stands the ruined castle of
+<pb n="218"/><anchor id="Pg218"/>
+Champtoceaux, where Duke John V. was kept a
+prisoner by the implacable enemies of his house, the
+Penthi�vre family.</p>
+
+<p>Marguerite de Clisson, widow of Jean de Bretagne,
+Comte de Penthi�vre, lived in retirement in
+her stately fortress of Champtoceaux, with her three
+sons, Oliver, Count of Blois, and his brothers. Marguerite
+inherited the pride, hatred, and cruelty, of her
+father, without his chivalrous loyalty and magnanimity.
+The kingdom was filled with troubles, and
+she thought it a favourable moment for reviving
+the pretensions of her family. John V. held his
+court at Nantes. She sent Oliver there to assure
+the Duke that his mother and brother were ready
+to do him homage; and he swore, on his own part,
+"de le servir envers et contre tous ceux qui peuvent
+vivre et mourir." John, delighted, made the young
+man share his bed, and treated him with the greatest
+distinction. Oliver expressed his regret that the age
+and infirmities of his mother prevented her going to
+court, and timidly insinuated the honour she would
+feel at a visit from the Duke. The Duke consented,
+and, sending off his plate to Champtoceaux,
+started with his brother-in-law, Count Oliver, and
+his attendants. Having passed the little river which
+separates Anjou from Brittany, they saw a man
+throwing the planks of the bridge into the water,
+and thus preventing the Duke's suite from following.
+<pb n="219"/><anchor id="Pg219"/>
+At the same time, Charles de Penthi�vre, Margaret's
+second son, issued suddenly from a wood with an
+escort of lances and surrounded the Duke. There
+was no kind of indignity they did not make him
+suffer. He was tied upon his horse like a criminal,
+and conducted first to Clisson, Oliver leading him
+with a halter round his neck. The Penthi�vres,
+who would not let the place be guessed where they
+held their captive, conducted him at night, sometimes
+on foot, from fortress to fortress, from dungeon
+to dungeon; at the same time circulating the
+report that they had drowned him in the Loire. As
+a last insult, they took him to Champtoceaux, where
+Marguerite visited him in prison to exult over his
+misfortunes. Meantime the Breton barons, indignant
+at the treason of which their Sovereign was the
+victim, raised an army for his deliverance, and civil
+war broke out with redoubled fury. His heroic
+wife, Jeanne de France, showed an untiring energy
+to save him. Undaunted by the threats of the
+Penthi�vres,&mdash;who sent word to her, if she did not
+desist from hostilities they would cut her husband
+in pieces, nor by the messages from the Duke himself
+assuring her that her zeal would cost him his life,&mdash;she
+induced her brother, the Dauphin, to order the
+Penthi�vres not to attempt the life of their prisoner;
+she besieged, one after the other, all their castles, and
+at last compelled Marguerite to capitulate to save
+<pb n="220"/><anchor id="Pg220"/>
+her own life. Finding herself and family in a perilous
+position, Marguerite agreed that the Duke should
+be released (he was at Clisson), and that she and her
+sons should retire where they wished, on their promise
+to appear at the summons of the Breton nobles.
+Immediately on his liberation, Duke John ordered
+the destruction of Champtoceaux. A parliament
+assembled at Vannes in 1424, condemned Marguerite
+and her sons to capital punishment, and
+declared all the Penthi�vre possessions to be forfeited
+to the State. But the culprits had all escaped
+the kingdom, except the youngest son, William, a
+child only ten years of age, who had been given as
+a hostage for the appearance of his mother and
+brothers, and was condemned to languish for twenty-seven
+years in prison, where he lost his eyesight&mdash;a
+victim to crimes in which he had not been an accomplice.
+John had made a vow, during his detention,
+to give, if he regained his liberty, to the church of
+Notre Dame at Nantes, his weight in gold; and
+most conscientiously did he perform his promise, for
+we read, "He placed himself in his war armour in
+the balance, and caused the opposite scale to be
+filled with gold till it had attained the weight of the
+first; that is to say, three hundred and eighty marks,
+seven ounces"&mdash;which sum was delivered over to
+the church. Vows of this nature are not unfrequently
+recorded. When Don Carlos, the ill-fated
+<pb n="221"/><anchor id="Pg221"/>
+son of Philip II., lay ill, he vowed to give to the
+Virgin, on his recovery, four times his weight in gold
+plate, and seven times his weight in silver. The
+vow was fulfilled; but the Prince was placed in the
+scale in a damask robe and fur coat, and weighed
+only seventy-six pounds&mdash;so much was he reduced
+by his long illness.</p>
+
+<p>Nantes is a cheerful, busy, handsome city, but
+wanting in the picturesque characteristics of the
+towns of Lower Brittany. Quimper, Vannes, Rennes,
+and Nantes, have all been successively capitals of
+the duchy, but Nantes was the usual residence of its
+dukes.</p>
+
+<p>The cathedral contains its principal artistic monument,
+the tomb of Duke Francis II. and his second
+wife, Marguerite de Foix, called "sein de lys," from
+the beauty of her complexion. It was erected by
+their daughter, the Queen-Duchess Anne, and was
+executed by Michel Colomb, a sculptor of St. Pol
+de L�on, originally a herd-boy. This monument,
+considered a masterpiece of the Renaissance, is not
+copied from any Italian original, but is entirely the
+offspring of the artist's own fancy. There is much
+simplicity in its design and execution. The tomb,
+about five feet high, is of white marble, diapered
+with ermine and the letter F. On a black slab
+repose the effigies of the Duke and Duchess, and
+at their feet are lying a lion and a greyhound, holding
+<pb n="222"/><anchor id="Pg222"/>
+their several escutcheons. Four large allegorical
+figures are at each angle of the tomb, representing
+the cardinal virtues. Justice carries the book of
+the laws, and the sword by which she makes them
+respected. This figure is said to be the portrait of
+the Duchess Anne. Temperance, in a monastic
+dress, is characterised by a bit and a lantern. Prudence,
+double faced, holds a mirror and a compass,
+and has a serpent at her feet. This figure is in the
+costume of a peasant girl of St. Pol; the second
+face, that of an old man, is also in the dress of
+Lower Brittany. Strength or Fortitude, handsome,
+resolute, and calm, strangles a dragon with his
+grasp.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the principal sides of the tomb are the
+twelve Apostles, and below, in niches, sixteen
+mourners (pleureuses) in monastic habits, the faces
+and hands white, the rest of the body black. The
+beautiful attitude of these figures is much admired.
+Some are kneeling, others are seated&mdash;all in the
+attitude and expression of prayer. This monument
+was originally in the church of the Carmelites,
+whence it was transferred to the cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the remains of Duke Francis and his two
+wives, it formerly contained the heart of his daughter,
+the Queen-Duchess Anne, enshrined in a golden
+case in the form of a heart, surmounted by a crown,
+and surrounded by a cordeli�re; but the tomb was
+<pb n="223"/><anchor id="Pg223"/>
+rifled during the Reign of Terror. It now holds
+the remains of the Constable Duke Arthur III.</p>
+
+<p>Duke John IV. also died at Nantes, after his long
+eventful reign, having acquired a military glory
+which earned him the name of Conqueror, and
+equalled that of Du Guesclin and Clisson. Twice
+he lost and twice he regained his crown. He alienated
+Du Guesclin and his faithful subjects by his
+partiality to England. The Bretons rose, and he
+fled to Edward III.; but when Charles V. entered
+the duchy, with the intention of confiscating it
+to the crown of France, the Bretons all united to
+defend their nationality against the ambition of the
+French King, and recalled their Sovereign. So great
+was the enthusiasm on his arrival at St. Malo, that
+the nobles plunged into the water to approach his
+ship; and even the widow of his rival, Charles of
+Blois, went to welcome him. His cowardly attempt
+against the Constable Clisson again compromised
+his reputation, and was disgracefully avenged upon
+his son by the implacable daughter of Clisson.</p>
+
+<p>The old ducal castle still rises on the left bank of
+the river. It was here Anne of Brittany was born,
+and here she married, 1499, her old admirer, the
+chivalrous Duke of Orleans, then King Louis XII.,
+according to her stipulation, that the King, "viendra
+l'espouser en sa maison de Nantes." Left at the
+age of eleven, by the death of her father, a prey to
+<pb n="224"/><anchor id="Pg224"/>
+claimants to her hand, which carried with it the
+powerful duchy of Brittany, Anne was a prize worth
+a king's seeking, even at a time when there were so
+many other rich heiresses undisposed of&mdash;Mary of
+Burgundy, Elizabeth of York, Isabella of Castille,
+and Catherine de Foix. Anne is described as handsome,
+but slightly lame, generous, and gentle, but
+grave and proud in her demeanour. Louis XII.
+called her his "fi�re Bretonne," and allowed her the
+uncontrolled government of Brittany, "tout ainsi
+que si elle n'estoit point sa femme."</p>
+
+<p>Though the wife of two Kings of France, Anne
+never forgot the interests of her duchy, whose
+nationality she always strove to maintain with the
+pertinacity of a true Breton, and showed herself, by
+her spirit and independence, to be the most worthy
+of all her race to wear the ducal crown. Jean
+Marot addresses her as "Royne incomparable, deux
+fois devinement sacr�e, Anne Duchesse de Bretagne."</p>
+
+<p>Like most of the ladies of her age, Anne was an
+accomplished linguist. She understood Latin and
+Greek, and most of the European languages. She
+corresponded with her husband in Latin verse. Her
+letters, still extant, breathe the most tender affection.
+One, written to him (1499) during the Italian wars,
+begins, "Une �pouse tendre et ch�rie �crit � son
+�poux encore plus ch�ri, l'objet � la fois de ses regrets
+et de son estime, conduit par la gloire loin de sa
+<pb n="225"/><anchor id="Pg225"/>
+patrie. Amante infortun�e, il n'est pour elle aucun
+instant sans alarmes. Quel malheur affreux que
+celui d'�tre priv� d'un Prince que l'on aime, d'un
+Prince plus amant qu'�poux."</p>
+
+<p>It was in this castle that Henry IV. signed his
+celebrated Edict of Nantes, so fatally revoked by
+Louis XIV.</p>
+
+<p>The Duc de Merc&oelig;ur, when governor of Brittany,
+made Nantes a regular fortified town. Having
+married Marie de Luxembourg, heiress of the house
+of Penthi�vre, he sought to secure to himself the
+duchy of Brittany, while his brother, the Duke de
+Guise, aimed at the crown of France. Head of the
+League in that province, he looked upon it as a
+means of attaining his end: his wife joined him in
+his plans of ambition, and they by turns tyrannized
+and caressed the Nantais, amusing them with f�tes,
+in which the Duchess condescended to dance with
+the townsfolk. For twenty years Merc&oelig;ur held the
+province; but a peace was eventually signed between
+him and Henry IV., through the mediation of
+Gabrielle d'Estr�es, whose son C�sar de Vend�me,
+then four years of age, was affianced to the Duke
+de Merc&oelig;ur's daughter, then only six.  When
+Henry IV. made his entry into Nantes after the
+pacification, he observed, on surveying the fortifications,
+"Ventre Saint Gris, les Ducs de Bretagne
+n'�taient pas de petits compagnons."</p>
+<pb n="226"/><anchor id="Pg226"/>
+
+<p>Nantes has been the scene of many an act of
+vengeance on the part of the Kings of France.</p>
+
+<p>The Place du Bouffay, the place of execution,
+was the scene of the tragic death of the young
+Henri de Talleyrand, Comte de Chalais, executed by
+Louis XIII. for his part in the conspiracy which
+bears his name. Its object was the death of the
+Cardinal, and to place the crown on the head of the
+feeble Gaston, who was celebrating his marriage at
+Nantes at the time that his victim Chalais was
+paying the penalty of his crime.</p>
+
+<p>The restless, intriguing Cardinal de Retz was imprisoned
+in Nantes Castle during the minority of
+Louis XIV., and made a wonderful escape by letting
+himself down from the walls to the river, where a
+boat awaited him. It was also at Nantes that the
+same monarch caused Fouquet to be arrested, not,
+as alleged, for his malpractices in office, but because
+his ambition and pomp offended the pride of his
+royal master.</p>
+
+<p>For their part in the conspiracy of Cellamare, the
+Marquis de Poncallec and three other Breton gentlemen
+suffered on the Place du Bouffay, and the
+Vendean chief, La Charette, was also there shot
+in 1795.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the castle is the Rue Haute du
+Ch�teau. At the Maison Juigny, in this street,
+the Duchesse de Berri was arrested, after having
+<pb n="227"/><anchor id="Pg227"/>
+remained sixteen hours concealed in an aperture
+behind a chimney on the third floor, scarcely a foot
+and a half high and four feet long. The police,
+having information of her being in the house,
+through the treachery of a Jew, had made a fruitless
+search, but had left a watch behind. The soldiers
+lighted a fire in the chimney, and the Duchess, with
+her three attendants, sallied out, her dress completely
+scorched. They had endured the heat, but were
+unable to bear the suffocation.</p>
+
+<p>Nantes has some fine promenades and boulevards,
+planted with trees. In the Cours Saint Pierre and
+St. Andr� are statues of the Duchess Anne and of
+the three Breton constables, Du Guesclin, Clisson,
+and Richmont.</p>
+
+<p>One of the leading characteristics of Nantes is its
+numerous bridges: a regular chain of them form a
+continuous line across the river and canals, and others
+unite the islands which form the suburbs to the town
+itself.</p>
+
+<p>The Museum contains a large collection of pictures,
+which the bequest of the Duke de Feltre
+(Mar�chal Clarke) has increased considerably. These
+consist mostly of sketches by Paul Delaroche, and
+the charming Italian subjects of L�opold Robert.</p>
+
+<p>"L'enfant charitable"&mdash;a nun on her deathbed
+embracing a child who is standing by her side, an
+angel behind&mdash;is a touching composition of Ary
+<pb n="228"/><anchor id="Pg228"/>
+Sch�effer. Another, by Paul Baudry, represents the
+death of Marat: Charlotte Corday's open, handsome
+face, looks incapable of the crime she has just perpetrated.
+There is one by Ziegler&mdash;Daniel in the
+lion's den&mdash;an angel staying the lions from molesting
+him. The atmosphere of light surrounding the
+angel is wonderful and unearthly. These two are
+in the general collection, together with numerous
+examples of the old masters.</p>
+
+<p>Near our hotel is one of the curiosities of Nantes,
+the Passage de la Pommeraye, consisting of three
+stories of iron galleries or arcades, uniting the Rue
+de Cr�billon with the Rue de la Fosse. The second
+arcade communicates by a flight of stairs with the
+third, called the Galerie de la Fosse, opening upon
+the street of that name.</p>
+
+<p>The Garden of Plants is beautifully laid out; groves
+and avenues of magnolias in full flower, with rocks,
+waterfalls, rustic bridges, all most picturesquely disposed,
+making it one of the prettiest gardens and
+public promenades in France.</p>
+
+<p>We descended the Loire by steamer, passing by
+vast granite buildings, built as magazines for colonial
+imports, called Les Salorges, in front of which the
+horrible noyades of Carrier took place, and these
+warehouses served as a temporary place of confinement
+for the victims. We next steamed past the
+island of Indret, the great manufacture of steam-engines
+<pb n="229"/><anchor id="Pg229"/>
+for the State. Here we landed some market
+women, in caps of the same form, with high combs,
+as those of clear muslin worn by the Nantaises,
+only of a coarse material, and edged with black.
+On the right was Cou�ron, where Duke Francis II.
+died in consequence of a fall from his horse. The
+battle of St. Aubin-du-Cormier had decided his fate
+and that of his daughters,&mdash;a humiliation from which
+he never recovered. His faithful friend Rieux, who
+commanded his army, defeated by the youthful Louis
+de la Tr�mouille; the chivalrous Louis of Orleans, a
+prisoner in an iron cage in the "Grosse Tour" at
+Bourges; and the safety of his daughters at the mercy
+of King Charles VIII., or worse, of his imperious
+sister, the Regent Anne de Beaujeu, who would have
+committed some act of spoliation, had not the
+Chancellor Rochefort saved the duchy by his integrity,
+declaring to Anne that "a conqueror without
+right is but an illustrious robber."</p>
+
+<p>At Les Pellerins, barges were loading with hay,
+and heaps of it standing on the river's edge ready for
+embarkation. On the left bank is Paimb&oelig;uf, where
+diligences run to Pornic, a favourite little watering-place
+south of the Loire.</p>
+
+<p>St. Nazaire is a bustling seaport town, now the
+point of departure of the transatlantic steamers for the
+West Indies and Mexico. A Mexican, in his picturesque
+costume, all the seams of his dress fringed
+<pb n="230"/><anchor id="Pg230"/>
+with hanging silver buttons, was living in the same
+hotel with ourselves. St. Nazaire has now a large
+floating basin, opened in 1858, capable of holding
+200 ships of large size, and another is in course of
+construction.</p>
+
+<p>It was from St. Nazaire that Prince Charles, the
+young Pretender, sailed on the adventurous expedition
+of '45, furnished with a frigate and a ship of
+the line by Mr. Walsh, of Nantes. Among the
+noble cavaliers who had sacrificed everything to
+follow the Stuarts into exile was the Walsh family,
+originally from Ireland. They had shared the wandering
+fortunes of Charles II., returned with him at
+the Restoration to find the greater part of their
+property confiscated; but they did not hesitate to
+sacrifice the rest when James II. abdicated the throne,
+and a Walsh commanded the ship which carried
+the King to France. Sent on a secret mission to
+England, he was recognized, denounced, and arrested.
+James II. created him an Earl at St. Germain. Two
+of his sons had retired to St. Malo and Nantes, and
+engaged in commercial speculations, endeavouring
+thereby to restore the fortunes of their house. Commerce
+was strictly forbidden to the Breton nobles;
+but, when war or misfortune had reduced their fortunes,
+they were allowed to enter into commerce, or
+any other profession, without derogating from their
+rank, provided they first deposited their swords with
+<pb n="231"/><anchor id="Pg231"/>
+the Parliament, to be again claimed when their circumstances
+were improved. All will remember the
+anecdote in the 'Sentimental Journey.' As a book,
+called 'The State of Nobility in Brittany,' published
+in 1681, sets forth: "When nobles are engaged in
+commerce, their noble blood sleeps; but when the
+derogatory works are over, it revives. It is never
+lost but in death." But to return to the Walsh
+family. One of the brothers had embarked the
+remains of his little fortune in the business of "armateur"&mdash;a
+kind of shipowner, or one who fits out
+and charters ships, and sometimes commands them
+himself&mdash;the profession of Jean Bart and Duguay
+Trouin.<note place="foot">
+The late Vicomte Walsh has written 'Gilles de Bretagne,'
+and other novels, with all a Breton's nationality. His son,
+the present representative of the family, occupies the beautiful
+Ch�teau of Chaumont on the Loire, devolved to him by right
+of his accomplished wife, the widow of the Comte d'Aramon.</note>
+It was to this Anthony Walsh, and a banker
+of Dunkirk, that Prince Charles addressed himself to
+fit out an old worm-eaten seventy-gun man-of-war, the
+'Elizabeth,' they had just obtained from Government
+for his expedition. True to the hereditary loyalty
+of his family, Mr. Walsh not only devoted all he
+possessed to the armament of the frigate, but also
+fitted out a brig, called the 'Doutelle'&mdash;both intended
+as privateers to cruise against the English&mdash;and
+took the command of her himself. On the
+<pb n="232"/><anchor id="Pg232"/>
+28th June, 1745, furnished with about 4000l. of
+money, Charles Edward embarked on the Loire, in
+a fisherman's boat, to join the 'Doutelle' at St.
+Nazaire, and the 'Elizabeth' at Belle-Isle. He
+passed for a young Irish priest, and wore the habit
+of a student of the Scots' College at Paris. The
+ships encountered an English man-of-war, the 'Lion.'
+At the sound of the first shot, the Prince rushed on
+deck and asked for a sword. Mr. Walsh, by virtue
+of his authority as captain, took him by the arm and
+said to him sternly, "M. Abb�, your place is not
+here; go below with the passengers." The Prince
+obeyed, night separated the combatants, and on the
+18th of July he was safely landed in Scotland. On
+Michaelmas Day, the following year, the disasters of
+Culloden again threw him an exile on the shores
+of Brittany.</p>
+
+<p>From St. Nazaire we took a carriage for Gu�rande,
+to visit that remarkable district called the Canton de
+Croisic, and consisting chiefly of that place and the
+Bourg de Batz. We first came to Escoublac, a
+corruption of Episcopi lacus, deriving its name from
+a lake belonging to the bishop of the diocese.</p>
+
+<p>The old town has been entirely buried by the
+moving sands which have blown over it, and, in
+1779, its inhabitants transferred their houses to the
+present site. Hills of sand surround it in every
+direction.</p>
+<pb n="233"/><anchor id="Pg233"/>
+
+<p>Here we left the high road, and turned off to the
+left to Poulignan, a little white bay, as its name implies;
+a charming retreat, with beautiful white sands
+and picturesque rocks. This is a favourite watering-place
+with the Nantais. Its whole population appeared
+to be in the water. A row of small wooden
+ch�lets are built along the shore for the bathers, no
+machines are used.</p>
+
+<p>From Escoublac begins the large extent of salt-pans
+in which consist the riches of this country.
+They reach to Batz and Le Croisic, the peninsula
+which forms this district having formerly been an
+island which gradually has been transformed into a
+marsh.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image44.jpg">
+    <head>44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>These salt-pans, cut out into small squares, have
+the appearance of one great chess-board, interspersed
+with occasional hamlets and woods. The
+working of them employs the whole population of
+the district.</p>
+
+<p>They consist of large basins, dug at different
+depths, into which the water of the sea is introduced,
+and are divided into squares called "&oelig;illets."
+The salt-water is turned upon the marsh by canals
+styled "�tiers," edged with narrow paths or roads
+called "bossis," elevated, some of them, three or four
+feet above the marsh; on these the newly collected
+salt is generally laid. The water passes by a subterranean
+conduit, the "co�f," into the "vasi�re,"
+<pb n="234"/><anchor id="Pg234"/>
+where the first evaporation takes place; and then
+successively into the "cobiers," "fares," and "adernem�tres,"
+until it flows finally into the "&oelig;illets,"
+where the salt is definitively formed. Each "&oelig;illet"
+is about 20 feet by 30.  The heat of the sun
+and the wind effect the evaporation, which the
+paludier assists by stirring the water from time to
+time. The salt which forms on the surface resembles
+a kind of white cream, and exhales an
+agreeable perfume resembling violets. This is the
+finest salt; that which falls to the bottom of the
+salt-pan is of a greyish cast. The salt when formed
+is then scraped off, drained, and the women collect
+it and stack it on the "bossis" into conical heaps,
+which they cover with a coating of clay, to render
+them impervious to weather. In the salting season,
+the salt marshes with their innumerable hillocks of
+white salt have the appearance of a vast tent-covered
+camp. Each "&oelig;illet" produces about 150 lbs. of
+salt. The same salt-pans are worked from century to
+century by the same "paludiers" or their descendants.
+The proprietors may change, but the workmen
+remain, considering the salt-pans their prescriptive
+inheritance. For payment, they receive one-fourth of
+the salt. The dress of the paludier is a smock-frock
+of irreproachable whiteness, with pockets, white shoes,
+gaiters, and linen breeches, an enormous black flap
+hat turned up on the side in a point or horn. The
+<pb n="235"/><anchor id="Pg235"/>
+<pb n="236"/><anchor id="Pg236"/>
+<pb n="237"/><anchor id="Pg237"/>
+young man wears the point over the ear, the married
+turns it behind, and the widower in front. We
+reached the Bourg de Batz in time for vespers, and
+had an opportunity of seeing the people in their
+Sunday dress. The men wear three or four cloth
+waistcoats, all of different lengths, so as to let the
+various colours, red, white, and blue, with which
+they are bound, appear one above the other in
+tiers, a muslin turnover collar, full plaited breeches
+<pb n="238"/><anchor id="Pg238"/>
+of fine cloth tied at the knee by garters of floating
+ribbon, white woollen stockings with worked clocks
+and light yellow shoes, their flap hats ornamented
+with a roll of chenille of varied colours. The headdress
+of the women is singular and most intricate.
+The hair, in two rolls, twisted round with white tape,
+forms a kind of coronet across their heads; over
+this, a piece of net is drawn tight, forming a sort of
+cap, describing a peak behind, and crossing in front
+like a handkerchief.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image45.jpg">
+    <head>45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The dress consists of several petticoats of cloth
+plaited, red body, turned-up sleeves, and large
+coloured bibs or plastrons which they call "pi�ces,"
+of the same stuff as their dresses. The girls' aprons
+are plain, without pockets, but the women's are of
+coloured silk, some of a rich brocade. A shawl
+with fringed border completes the costume. Some
+of the women had their heads and shoulders wrapped
+up in a triangular, black, shaggy sheepskin mantle;
+these were widows.</p>
+
+<p>At the inn where we alighted, they keep the splendid
+costumes worn by the people at weddings and other
+great occasions; and, by paying them for their
+trouble, they will put them on for inspection. The
+bride's costumes are of great magnificence; they
+array themselves in three different dresses on their
+wedding-day. First, a gown of white velvet, with
+apron of moire antique; secondly, one of violet
+<pb n="239"/><anchor id="Pg239"/>
+velvet; and the third equally costly. Embroidered
+sleeves, the "pi�ce" of cloth of gold, the petticoats
+looped up with a wide sash, embroidered in gold,
+and gold clocks to the stockings.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image46.jpg">
+    <head>46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>We were shown a state bed, or "lit de mariage,"
+a tall four-post, painted red, with green reps tester
+and curtains, embroidered with yellow chenille.
+The great sign of wealth is to have the bedding
+reach to the top of the bedstead.  To effect this,
+<pb n="240"/><anchor id="Pg240"/>
+the base is formed of bundles of vine-stalks, over
+which is spread the straw, and when this scaffolding
+has been raised some feet, a paillasse is placed
+over it, then the feather-bed, so that it literally
+requires a ladder to ascend to the top of this mountain
+of bedding, and then it is difficult to crawl
+into it. There were a bolster and two pillows
+covered with velvet, which, with the sheets, were
+all trimmed with a kind of lace or cutwork.</p>
+
+<p>The houses are solidly built of granite, and
+slated; the windows large. The furniture is good,
+generally comprising a well-waxed carved oak
+armoire, upon which are arranged earthenware plates
+of various colours.</p>
+
+<p>The paludiers of Batz preserve their original type
+distinct from the peasants of the environs; and
+form, like the Jews, a separate people, intermarrying
+among themselves, retaining their own peculiar
+manners and customs. They are supposed to descend
+from a Saxon colony. The paludier is tall
+in stature; their women remarkable for their fair
+complexions, which contrast strongly with their
+sunburnt neighbours. They are loyal and devout,
+true to their word, courageous and enduring;
+though the paludier is miserably poor, from the
+oppressiveness of the salt-tax, he never complains.
+Begging is unknown. Their food consists of rye
+bread, porridge of black corn, potatoes, and shellfish.
+<pb n="241"/><anchor id="Pg241"/>
+They are sober, and drink wine in small
+quantities.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly the salt was distributed over the adjacent
+provinces by means of "saulniers," the journeymen
+labourers of the paludiers. Dressed in their picturesque
+costume, with a train of mules, whose
+tinkling bells announced their arrival, the saulnier
+was welcomed in every village where he sold his salt
+or exchanged it for other merchandize. "Le sucre
+des pauvres," as salt has been aptly called, was
+severely taxed under the old r�gime; distributions
+of the "sel royale" were yearly made by the Government
+among the gentry of the provinces, but the
+poor, who had no such privileges, severely felt
+the oppression, and smuggling was consequently
+extensively carried on, and the "faux saulnier," with
+his double bag across his shoulders, secretly sold salt
+upon which the gabelle had not been paid. With
+a faux saulnier originated the great peasant rising in
+Brittany, the Chouan war; a war to which Napoleon
+said, "All preceding wars have been but games."
+Jean, father of the four brothers Cottereau, was a
+maker of wooden shoes, and lived in a forest near
+Laval (Maine). From his solitary life he had acquired
+such sombre, wild, melancholy habits, that
+people gave him the name of Chouan, Maine patois
+for Chat-huant, and his family received the sobriquet
+long before the insurrection of 1792. Jean
+<pb n="242"/><anchor id="Pg242"/>
+Cottereau was the most celebrated faux saulnier of
+Maine; he had accidentally killed a revenue officer
+in one of his encounters, and his heroic mother
+made a journey to Versailles, barefooted, "sur le
+cuir de ses pieds," to obtain his pardon. Jean's
+master and patron was guillotined, his two sisters
+shared the same fate, and one of his brothers died
+of his wounds, and his body was disinterred by the
+Revolutionists. These personal wrongs, the treatment
+of the King, the interdiction of the Catholic
+religion, its processions, its bells, the persecution of
+its ministers, all goaded the Breton peasantry to
+revolt; and Jean was the first to fire a gun against a
+Republican at the cry of "Vive le Roi." The rising
+began with a few peasants, armed with a gun or a
+stick, dressed in short breeches open at the knee,
+with leather gaiters, and coloured garters; their long
+hair streaming over the shoulders, their heads
+covered with a wide-brimmed hat, or brown or red
+cap, sabots tipped with iron, and, in cold weather, a
+loose coat of goatskin. The Chouans assembled in
+small bands and attacked the Republicans at night
+in ambuscade, and when they had killed a few
+"Bleus" disappeared among the corn-fields or the
+furze-bushes. Simple peasants, they fought against
+the Republicans in defence of the altar and the
+throne. Their "commandements" ran thus:&mdash;</p>
+<pb n="243"/><anchor id="Pg243"/>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Ton Dieu, ton Roy, tu serviras</q></l>
+<l>Jusqu'� la mort fid�lement.</l>
+<l>Docile � tes chefs tu seras,</l>
+<l>Afin de vaincre surement.</l>
+<l>Sobre et discret te montreras,</l>
+<l>Buvant peu, parlant rarement;</l>
+<l>De ton chef jamais n'agiras</l>
+<l>Attendant le commandement;</l>
+<l>Violemment rien ne prendras,</l>
+<l>Mais en payant exactement.</l>
+<l>Age et sexe respecteras,</l>
+<l>Etant soldat et non brigand.</l>
+<l>Les comit�s corrigeras,</l>
+<l>Et les mouchards chr�tiennement;</l>
+<l>N� Breton, tu n'oublieras,</l>
+<l>Afin d'agir loyalement.</l>
+<l>Dans le succ�s clement seras;</l>
+<l>Dans le malheur, ferme et constant.</l>
+<l>Chaque jour ton Dieu tu prieras;</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Que peux tu sans son bras puissant?</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Such were the first Chouans: they had no organisation
+until they followed Larochejaquelin and
+the Vendean army to Granville, and accompanied
+them in their retreat; when their numbers were
+materially increased and their character completely
+changed by the deserters and brigands, who joined
+and eventually succeeded the peasantry.</p>
+
+<p>The church of Batz is of cut stone. It has a
+square tower, surmounted by a cupola steeple,
+which with that of Le Croisic serves as a landmark
+to vessels having to steer between the two dangerous
+rocks Le Four, in front of Le Croisic, and Les
+Blanches, situated near the mouth of the Loire.</p>
+<pb n="244"/><anchor id="Pg244"/>
+
+<p>The choir is inclined, like that of St. Pol and
+others in Brittany. On one of the bosses in the
+interior is a grotesque carving of a man torn to
+pieces by the seven capital sins. On others are the
+Santa Veronica, the Good Shepherd, Ste. Barbara,
+&amp;c. Near the church are the pretty ruins of the
+chapel of Notre Dame-du-M�rier.</p>
+
+<p>We drove on to Le Croisic, in Breton, "Little
+Cross;" so called from the small chapel of the
+Crucifix, built to commemorate the baptism by
+St. Felix, Bishop of Nantes, in the sixth century, of
+the Saxon colony who occupied the peninsula. Le
+Croisic was one of the first towns in Brittany which
+received Christianity, and bears for its arms a cross
+between four ermines. Along the road-side are
+cisterns or wells dug in the sand, and girls were filling
+with water the classical stone pitchers they
+carried upon their heads&mdash;quite an Eastern picture,
+suggestive of Rebecca and the damsels of her
+country. Le Croisic is almost surrounded by the
+sea, low, and without shelter, which renders it cold,
+damp, and exposed to the winds; turf is almost the
+only fuel used.</p>
+
+<p>It is much frequented as a watering-place, and
+has an Etablissement. It is also a sea-port, with a
+rocky entrance to the harbour, and the dangerous
+rock with its lighthouse, called Le Four, extending
+for a league in front. The inhabitants of Le Croisic
+<pb n="245"/><anchor id="Pg245"/>
+are principally engaged in the sardine fishery, and
+the curing of these fish consumes much of the salt
+of the marshes. The people complain this year
+they have no large orders for sardines, and there is
+but little white salt.</p>
+
+<p>The chapel of St. Goustan, on the edge of the
+harbour, is singularly built; its western gable perched
+upon a little rock, half of which is inside and half
+outside the building. The church is no longer
+open for Divine service; but the peasant-girl who
+desires to know if she will be married this year, tries
+to pass a pin through the bars of the northern window
+without touching the wall. On the opposite
+side of the estuary are P�riac and La Turbale, both
+seats of the sardine fishery. Returning the way we
+came, we stopped at the Plage Valentin, another
+bathing-place in a pretty little bay; with dressing-rooms
+and a small Etablissement. An omnibus
+conveys the bathers from Le Croisic, for two sous.
+The sea looks more inviting here and at Poulignan
+than at Le Croisic, where there is so much seaweed
+in the harbour. We returned through Batz;
+the cathedral tower of Saint Aubin at Gu�rande is
+to be seen at a great distance, and is a prominent
+object in the scenery; the whole country is covered
+with salt-pans. Gu�rande stands on a height,
+and turning back, the view of the whole district is
+most extensive. We passed through Saill�, where
+<pb n="246"/><anchor id="Pg246"/>
+Duke John IV. married Joan of Navarre, afterwards
+the second wife of Henry of Lancaster.</p>
+
+<p>Gu�rande, built on a vine-covered granite slope,
+is a singular old feudal town of the fifteenth century.
+It was fortified by Duke John V., and is
+nearly surrounded by granite walls, with ten towers
+and four old gateways, placed at the cardinal points
+of the compass. St. Michel, the principal gate, or
+rather a fortress, is flanked by two high towers, and
+contains the prison, archives, and h�tel de ville. A
+moat formerly surrounded the walls; but it has long
+been filled in, and boulevards substituted. From
+the battlements hang festoons of honeysuckle and
+ivy, and the moat is full of the yellow iris and water-lilies;
+nevertheless, Gu�rande has an austere, sombre
+aspect. There is a fine terrace walk, called the
+Mail, commanding a view of the whole country
+over Poulignan, Batz, and Le Croisic&mdash;a tented
+plain of salt.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 47. La Roche Bernard.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image47.jpg">
+    <head>47. La Roche Bernard.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The church of St. Aubin has Romanesque
+columns, with grotesque capitals. In one, two
+persons are sawing a third, stretched upon a wheel.
+On the left of the double-arched porch, is a pulpit
+outside the church, and there is some good painted
+glass within. Notre Dame Blanche, a chapel of the
+fourteenth century, is a pretty little building with
+stone pulpit and a sculptured group of Notre Dame-de-la-Salette
+with the two peasant children of Alsace.
+<pb n="247"/><anchor id="Pg247"/>
+Next day, we took a private carriage for La Roche
+Bernard; the road lying over a wide extent of land
+through Herbignac to La Roche Bernard (Morbihan),
+which is most picturesquely situated on a
+rocky height overhanging the Vilaine, here traversed
+by an elegant suspension-bridge, opened in
+1839, about 666 feet long and above 108 feet above
+high-water mark&mdash;a terrible dizzy height to cross
+even in calm weather. A few years since, the postman,
+his cart, and horse were all blown over into
+the river, and nothing more was ever heard of them.
+<pb n="248"/><anchor id="Pg248"/>
+We went fishing several days in a large �tang close
+to La Roche Bernard, and one evening took a
+pretty walk over the hills to another pond situated
+in a lovely secluded valley near a water-mill. La
+Roche Bernard was an early Protestant colony,
+founded by the Sieur d'Andelot, Seigneur of La
+Roche Bernard, brother to Admiral Coligny, and
+one of the firmest supporters of Calvinism. The
+Calvinists used to assemble at his ch�teau of Bretesch,
+where the minister of La Roche Bernard
+came to preach to them. D'Andelot and his sister,
+who was equally zealous in the cause, are, it is said,
+interred at La Roche Bernard. Near the Halles is
+a square block of houses; one of timber, with "Voie
+au Duc" inscribed upon it. These houses are said
+to have belonged to a Protestant community, and
+all to communicate with each other.</p>
+
+<p>The evening of our arrival there was a wedding
+supper given at our hotel, the grand dinner having
+taken place elsewhere. The bride wore a white sash,
+with wreaths of white flowers round her Nantais cap.
+After supper the party danced Breton "ronds." The
+dancers form a large ring (grand rond), holding
+each other's hands, which they swing violently as
+they sidle round in a kind of hop-skip-and-a-jump
+step, accompanied by singing in a most monotonous
+tone. This went on until midnight. This kind of
+dance dates, they say, from Celtic times. The music
+<pb n="249"/><anchor id="Pg249"/>
+consists of the biniou or bagpipe, and the flageolet
+or hautboy, sometimes with the addition of a drum.
+The biniou, cornemuse, or bagpipe, is the national
+instrument of western and southern France. How
+it came to be introduced into Scotland and expel
+the harp&mdash;which was as much the original music of
+Scotland as of Wales and Ireland&mdash;is a mystery. But,
+as in the sixteenth century the harp went out and the
+bagpipes came into fashion, it may be surmised that
+it was brought in, with other French novelties, on the
+return of Queen Mary, perhaps by the Queen herself,
+or, maybe, some itinerant player of the cornemuse
+may have accidentally been in her train, and his
+music set a fashion which has now become national.</p>
+
+<p>On market-day numbers of the women from
+Muzillac, a place about ten miles distant, came in
+with their fruit. They all wear an enormous plaited
+black cap, which looks like the cowl of a friar. The
+graceful form of the earthenware pots attracted our
+attention: probably they came from the adjacent
+town of Herbignac. The 15th August, F�te de la
+Vierge, and also that of the Emperor, was kept as a
+general holiday. An immense concourse of people
+arrived from the neighbourhood, and attended the
+six o'clock mass. We walked to the quay, to see
+the sports on the water; the spectators picturesquely
+grouped on a mass of bare rocks, commanding a
+pretty view up and down the river.</p>
+<pb n="250"/><anchor id="Pg250"/>
+
+<p>The amusements consisted of some races, and a
+m�t de cocagne, or greased pole, placed horizontally
+over the river; the feat being to walk safely to the
+end, where the prize was fixed, without falling into
+the water. In the evening "ronds" were danced,
+and every house had illuminations, in the shape of a
+candle stuck in a potato, and placed on each end of
+the window sill.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we left by diligence for Vannes, passing
+through Muzillac and on to Auray, where we took
+the steamer for Belle Isle.</p>
+
+<p>A steamer sails daily from the quay at Auray.
+The banks of the River Loch are very picturesque,
+the pine-trees (<hi rend="italic">Pinus maritima</hi>) growing to the
+water's edge. On the left, the islands of the Morbihan;
+on the right, Locmariaker; the view extending
+to Carnac and Mont St. Michel, over the
+whole sweep of the bay formed by the peninsula of
+Quiberon.</p>
+
+<p>At Port Navalo we emerged from the Morbihan,
+and, on our right, passed the little rocky island of
+Teigneuse, with its lighthouse; and, on the left,
+those of Houat and Haedik (the duck and the
+duckling); the former famous as the retreat of St.
+Gildas, who leaped from here with one bound, a distance
+of ten miles, to the peninsula of Rhuys, where
+he built his monastery. From Auray to Belle Isle
+is in all forty-eight miles&mdash;ten miles of river to Port
+<pb n="251"/><anchor id="Pg251"/>
+Navalo, the rest open sea. After eight hours' sail
+we reached Le Palais, the port and principal town of
+Belle Isle, built on the north-east side, and overhung
+by the citadel, the work of Vauban. The
+town consists of one principal street&mdash;the Rue
+Trochu&mdash;so called after the General of that name
+and his brother, who were the first, at the beginning
+of this century, to introduce agriculture into the
+island. We passed, at a distance to the right, the
+model farm of M. Trochu fils, on our way across
+the island to the lighthouse,&mdash;a cheerless drive, as
+there are no trees to be seen except near Le Palais.
+When M. Trochu commenced his labours, agriculture
+was little attended to in France, but he persevered
+in his exertions, beginning by clearing about
+sixty acres of granite rock, a land covered with heath
+and furze, setting at defiance the Breton saying,
+"Lande tu fus, lande tu es, lande tu seras." This
+same district is now covered with rich meadows,
+fine woods, productive arable fields, and magnificent
+pasture land, on which horses are extensively
+reared.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image48.jpg">
+    <head>48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>We gathered on the heathy moor three kinds of
+heath, the Cornish among others. The artichoke
+grows wild in the waste grounds. Wheat, turnips,
+beetroot, Indian corn, and potatoes, are the chief
+produce of the land in cultivation. This last vegetable
+was introduced by the families from Nova
+<pb n="252"/><anchor id="Pg252"/>
+Scotia (Acadia), who settled in Belle Isle, after that
+province was ceded to England by the Treaty of
+Paris, in 1766. This was several years before Parmentier
+had extended the use of the potato, or
+"truffe rouge," as it was first called, over other parts
+of France. Indian corn was probably also brought
+in by the Nova Scotians. The leaves are constantly
+cut during its growth as fodder for the cattle, so
+that the cob hardly attains a foot in height from the
+ground. On the left of our road we saw in the distance
+the village of Bangor, which gives its name to
+one of the four districts into which Belle Isle is
+divided. A little south is the fine granite lighthouse,
+of the stupendous height of 450 feet. We toiled
+up 255 steps (223 stone and 32 iron) before we
+gained the lantern, and, though the view was very
+extensive, we were rejoiced at finding ourselves safe
+down. One of the guardians had been waylaid,
+kicked, and beaten, a few evenings before, for some
+slight grudge. He seemed in great suffering, but
+had no doctor; the Breton, in his simple confiding
+faith&mdash;that with the Almighty are the issues of life
+and death, and that illness will end according to His
+decree&mdash;considers the calling in of a medical adviser
+but an unnecessary expense to his family. From
+the lighthouse we walked to the sea-shore. Belle
+Isle is a table-land, surrounded by steep cliffs,
+averaging 130 feet in height, which can only be
+<pb n="253"/><anchor id="Pg253"/>
+<pb n="254"/><anchor id="Pg254"/>
+<pb n="255"/><anchor id="Pg255"/>
+descended to the shore in particular places. We
+walked to the Grotte du Port Coton, where begins
+the "Mer Sauvage," as it is called, an extent of five
+to six miles of most picturesque rocks, some elevated
+from 130 to 160 feet above the level of the sea,
+jagged and torn into most fantastic forms by the
+ceaseless dashing of the waters of the Atlantic, which
+have formed various grottoes in the cliffs. We
+descended into one of these caverns by a narrow
+gulley, but could not proceed far, as the tide was
+entering fast, and would soon have surrounded us,
+cutting off all means of retreat.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 49. Device of Fouquet.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image49.jpg">
+    <head>49. Device of Fouquet.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>It reminded us of the description in the 'Vicomte
+de Bragelonne' of the grotto at Locmaria, which was
+blown up, and crushed the mousquetaire Porthos,
+at the moment of his and Aramis' triumph over the
+soldiers of the King. So great at times is the fury
+of the waves, that our guide at the lighthouse told
+us he had seen on several occasions the spray driven
+over to Le Palais, nearly five miles distant. Continuing
+our walk along the cliffs, we came to an
+enormous mass of rock, standing far out detached
+from the cliff, and covered with screaming sea-gulls.
+We again descended by another fissure into a pretty
+sandy cove, surrounded by the same wild granite
+rocks; but in most places there is no beach at all.
+It was now high water, so it was useless to attempt
+the Grotte des Apoth�caires,&mdash;the finest, they say, of
+<pb n="256"/><anchor id="Pg256"/>
+them all, and we returned to Le Palais well pleased
+with the remarkably wild coast we had seen. Belle-isle
+forms now a canton in the department of Morbihan.
+In ancient days it belonged to the Abbot of
+Saint-Croix, at Quimperl�, who sold it, in the time
+of Charles IX., to the Mar�chal de Gondi, and, in
+1573, it was erected into a Marquisate. (Cardinal
+de Retz lived here after his escape from the castle
+of Nantes.) One of his successors, Henri de Gondi,
+being overwhelmed with debt, sold the island to
+Nicolas Fouquet, the ill-fated Superintendent of Finance,
+on whose disgrace, and his being subsequently
+consigned to the fortress of Pignarol, his grandson,
+the Marquis de Belle Isle, exchanged it with
+Louis XV. for the Comt� of Gisors, erected into a
+duchy in 1742. Fouquet built a palace and completed
+the citadel, for which he employed Vauban.
+He also projected fortifications to enclose the town,
+which are now in course of completion by the
+Emperor, after Vauban's plans. Several guns had
+just been landed, the day before we visited the
+citadel, to see which an order is requisite. Near
+the citadel is the "Maison centrale des d�tenus," now
+only containing a few old men, too feeble for hard
+labour. We were too tired to walk to look at the
+celebrated cistern of Vauban, which holds, we were
+told, above thirty thousand imperial gallons of water.
+Fouquet's palace was, it is said, destroyed to complete
+<pb n="257"/><anchor id="Pg257"/>
+the line of fortifications. A house was pointed
+out to us as having formed part of the original
+building. Some years since, a stone was picked up
+in the harbour bearing his
+ambitious device&mdash;a squirrel,
+with the motto, <hi rend="italic">Quo non
+ascendum?</hi> "To where shall
+I not rise?"  The greater
+number of the population of
+Belle Isle are employed in
+the fisheries; of these the
+sardine and the tunny are
+the chief. There are large
+establishments for curing
+sardines, which are very abundant, and lobsters,
+taken in the rocks of Belle Isle and the little islands
+of Houat and H�dic, are sent to London and Paris.
+The boats go as far as Spain, to the coast of Catalonia,
+for the tunny fishery, which extends from
+August to the beginning of October. These fish
+are taken by lines hung along the sides of the vessel,
+with a bell attached to each to give notice of a
+bite. The most esteemed part of the tunny is the
+underneath, or "panse." The next morning we
+sailed back to Auray. The nearest point to Belle
+Isle is Quiberon, only ten miles from Le Palais.
+From Auray by rail to Quimper, where we took the
+diligence to Pont l'Abb�, an old town formerly of
+<pb n="258"/><anchor id="Pg258"/>
+some importance, in the midst of a fertile, rich country.
+The costume worn at Pont l'Abb� and along
+the Bay of Audierne is very singular. The cap, or
+"bigouden," is composed of two pieces: first, a kind
+of skull-cap, or serre-t�te, fitting tight to the head
+over the ears, then a little round bit, resembling,
+the young people said, a "pork-pie" hat, made of
+starched linen, pinched into a three-cornered peak,
+the middle peak embroidered and tied on by a piece
+<pb n="259"/><anchor id="Pg259"/>
+of tape fastening under the chin; the hair is turned
+up, "en chignon," over the skull-cap. The body
+of the dress has a large "pi�ce" of red or yellow,
+and sleeves to match. The men wear several very
+short coats, one over the other, the shortest trimmed
+with fringe; sometimes sentences are embroidered
+with coloured woollens round the edge. It was
+market day; the women were sitting, with distaff
+and spindle, on each side of the entrance to the Halle.
+Some of them have short bead-chains with a ring,
+attached to the left shoulder, to stick their distaffs in
+when not at work. There was abundance of fruit
+and vegetables, potatoes, and sardines, which, with
+bigoudens and other articles of dress, formed the
+principal commodities for sale. Pont l'Abb� and its
+Port, Loctudy, carry on an extensive trade with
+Jersey, and large quantities of potatoes are exported
+to that island. There were some Jersey merchants
+at the table-d'h�te.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abb�.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image50.jpg">
+    <head>50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abb�.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The church of Pont l'Abb� has only one aisle.
+There is a fine rose window over the west entrance,
+of great lightness and richness, with a smaller one at
+the left; at the east end is another rose window of
+larger dimensions, the mullions forming geometric
+patterns, but differing in design from the other. The
+French architects always took great pains in the
+decoration of this part of the church, and these
+wheel windows really rival those of Rouen.</p>
+<pb n="260"/><anchor id="Pg260"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image51.jpg">
+    <head>51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Attached to the church, are the cloisters of the
+Carmelite convent to which the church formerly
+belonged, built in the beginning of the fifteenth
+century by Bertram de Rosmadec, who had so
+much contributed to the completion of the cathedral
+at Quimper. The square is surrounded by an interlaced
+<pb n="261"/><anchor id="Pg261"/>
+circular arcade, forming trefoiled pointed
+arches, all in excellent preservation. The access to
+the cloisters is through the conventual building,
+now a private house and garden, the proprietor
+kindly granting us permission.</p>
+
+<p>We drove to Loctudy, on the mouth of the Pont
+l'Abb� river opposite the little island of Tudy, called
+after an English saint of that name. Fleeing from
+the persecutions of the Picts and Scots who desolated
+his country, he founded here, at the end of the
+fifth century, a considerable monastery, afterwards
+destroyed by the Normans.</p>
+
+<p>At Loctudy is a curious Romanesque church, one
+of the best preserved in Brittany, which dates from
+the Templars of the twelfth century. It has a nave
+with aisles going all round the choir, and three round
+apsidal chapels at the end. The five arches on each
+side of the nave are horse-shoe shaped, and the choir
+is surrounded by the same number of high narrow
+arches, resting on columns with grotesque capitals of
+complicated design. The three chapels behind are
+seen through the opening; on one of the capitals
+is sculptured the cross of the Templars. The whole
+building is spoiled by whitewash.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Chevaliers en ce monde cy</q></l>
+<l>Ne peuvent vivre sans souci;</l>
+<l>Ils doivent le peuple defendre,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Et leur sang pour la foi espandre.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Eustache Deschamps</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+<pb n="262"/><anchor id="Pg262"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 52. Torche of Penmarch.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image52.jpg">
+    <head>52. Torche of Penmarch.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>We engaged a rough kind of vehicle, much like
+a butcher's cart, to visit the Torche de Penmarch, a
+rocky promontory, so called from its fancied resemblance
+to a horse's head, forming the southern
+extremity of the department of Finist�re. The
+Torche is a mass of rocks separated from the mainland
+by a chasm called the "Saut de Moine," because
+<pb n="263"/><anchor id="Pg263"/>
+an Irish saint, named Viaud, jumped across it on his
+landing. In rough weather, the noise made by the
+sea dashing against its sides and rushing through the
+crevices of the rocks, is said to be heard at Quimper,
+a distance of twenty-one miles. A line of rocks runs
+all along the coast, marked by a lighthouse at Penmarch;
+we proceeded to another group of rocks
+near which M. de Ch�tellier, a proprietor and antiquary
+of this country, has built a house for painting
+and enjoying the scenery. One of our party clambered
+down to see the "Trou d'Enfer," a tremendously deep
+hole in the rocks, the bottom covered with a pink
+sort of sea-weed, and the water as clear as crystal.
+The whole country is a dreary sandy level, with salt-marshes,
+over which we passed to the ruined church
+of St. Fiacre, and close by is that of St. Guenol�,
+both situated near the sea. The countryman who
+showed us the church, knelt reverently down at the
+threshold and put up a short prayer before he
+entered the sacred building. The general devoutness
+and strong faith of the Bretons is most impressive
+and genuine, mixed, no doubt, with great superstition;
+but, as Wesley says, "Heaven makes
+allowance for invincible ignorance, and blesses the
+faith notwithstanding the superstition."</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. Church of St. Guenol�, Penmarch.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image53.jpg">
+    <head>53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. <lb />Church of St. Guenol�, Penmarch.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>St. Guenol� consists of an unfinished square
+tower, with crocketed pinnacles and a porch of considerable
+size, under a large mullioned window of the
+<pb n="264"/><anchor id="Pg264"/>
+fifteenth century. On each side of the porch are
+rude sculptures of ships and fishes, not uncommon
+in these parts, set there to show the church has been
+built with the thank-offerings of the fisher population
+of the district. In our
+tour we met with several
+churches with this sign, evidences
+of the piety of the
+fishermen; indeed, at Dunkirk,
+when the church was
+burned down in the sixteenth
+century by the
+French, it was entirely rebuilt by the contribution
+called "le filet saint," from an ancient custom among
+the fishermen of having one net so called, the produce
+of which was set apart for the church.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 54. Church of St. Guenol�, Penmarch.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image54.jpg">
+    <head>54. Church of St. Guenol�, Penmarch.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Towards the lighthouse are the ruins of the old
+town of Penmarch, much celebrated in the maritime
+history of the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries; its
+commerce extended even to Spain, and the riches of
+its inhabitants were so surpassingly great, that they
+drank out of silver cups, and the lords of a manor
+near the Torche furnished the silk required to line
+the road traversed by religious processions, their
+wealth being due to the "viande de car�me," that is
+to say, to the cod fishery. But the discovery of
+Newfoundland deprived them of this lucrative
+monopoly, and the ravages of Fontenelle le Ligueur
+<pb n="265"/><anchor id="Pg265"/>
+<pb n="266"/><anchor id="Pg266"/>
+<pb n="267"/><anchor id="Pg267"/>
+completed their ruin. All now is a scene of desolation.
+Penmarch has been called the Palmyra of
+Brittany.</p>
+
+<p>Guy Eder Fontenelle, the Leaguer, who spread
+terror and devastation throughout Brittany in the
+sixteenth century, was a member of the Beaumanoir
+family; the name he adopted was that of one of the
+family estates. He was born in the Ch�teau of
+Beaumanoir (near Evran), and his elder brother
+early foresaw his guilty career. He escaped from
+college and united himself with a set of young men
+as lawless as himself; they formed themselves into a
+band, which soon became the dread of all Brittany.
+They ravaged the whole of Tr�guier and Cornouaille,
+surprised the ch�teaux of Co�tfrec and
+others, took the church of Carhaix, which they
+fortified, and the towns of Paimpol, Lannion, and
+Landerneau, which they pillaged, Penmarch and
+Pontcroix, whence they carried off an immense
+booty and 300 vessels, with which they scoured the
+seas; and lastly, Douarnenez and the Island of
+Tristan (in 1595), whence fruitless attempts were
+made to dislodge them. For three years Fontenelle
+made this island his head-quarters, issuing from his
+stronghold to devastate the country. He murdered
+above fifteen hundred peasants at Plougastel, sank an
+English ship, without allowing her crew a moment to
+save themselves, imprisoned and tortured at Douarnenez
+<pb n="268"/><anchor id="Pg268"/>
+all who fell into his hands. His victims never
+survived his cruelties more than three or four days,
+when their bodies were cast out into the bay to the
+fishes. These were only a few of his atrocities. As
+he called himself one of the leaders of the League in
+Brittany, the Duke de Merc&oelig;ur, its chief, indignant
+at the barbarities perpetrated in its name, caused
+Fontenelle to be imprisoned, but he was liberated on
+paying a ransom; and, fearing he would give Douarnenez
+over to the Spaniards, Fontenelle was included
+in the pacification of Merc&oelig;ur with Henry IV. But
+four years later he was implicated in the conspiracy
+of Biron; on which occasion all his old crimes were
+raked up against him, and he was condemned to be
+dragged on a hurdle, and broken alive upon the
+wheel, which sentence was executed on the Place de
+Gr�ve at Paris in 1602. In consideration of the
+illustrious house to whom he belonged, the king
+granted that in the act of condemnation he should
+not go by his own name. We next went to see
+the church of Saint Nonna in the town, the largest
+of the numerous churches in the parish of Penmarch.
+Ships are sculptured in front of the tower,
+as at St. Guenol�. On the left of the porch is a
+pretty window, the mullions formed by three fleur
+de lis. In the church is a curious old painting
+styled, "Procession du v&oelig;u de Louis XIII." Portraits
+of the King, the Dauphin (Louis XIV.),
+<pb n="269"/><anchor id="Pg269"/>
+Anne of Austria, and Cardinal Richelieu, are introduced,
+and a view of the church of St. Nonna is in
+the background.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 55. Fleur-de-Lis� Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image55.jpg">
+    <head>55. Fleur-de-Lis� Window, Church of <lb />St. Nonna, Penmarch.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>On our way home we
+passed, on the left, at Kerscaven,
+two menhirs, one
+curiously furrowed and
+shaped like a half-opened
+fan.</p>
+
+<p>We had a pretty drive
+from Pont l'Abb�, with
+occasional views of the
+Bay of Audierne, extending
+from Penmarch to the
+Pointe du Raz. Midway the
+horse, going down a steep hill, fell, and we all found
+ourselves upon the road, but happily unhurt. We
+met numbers of peasants returning from the fair at
+Pontcroix; and our driver, a butcher by trade, coolly
+stopped the vehicle, to discourse with them on the
+price of stock, and to handle the sheep they had
+bought. Our drive was enlivened with occasional
+peeps of the Bay of Audierne till we reached the
+little port of that name, the view of which is very
+pretty. Audierne is approached by a bridge across
+the river or estuary. At its entrance is a lighthouse,
+and on the right a sandy bay, with bathing-machines
+in the season.</p>
+<pb n="270"/><anchor id="Pg270"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 56. Pointe du Raz.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image56.jpg">
+    <head>56. Pointe du Raz.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+
+<p>The town consists of three streets of cut granite
+houses, with the name of the builder and the date of
+their construction inscribed over the door. Fishing
+is the occupation of the inhabitants, and the table-d'h�te
+at our comfortable, clean, little inn was plentifully
+supplied with magnificent john dorys, large
+red mullet, langoustes, and fish of every description.</p>
+<pb n="271"/><anchor id="Pg271"/>
+
+<p>From Audierne we took a carriage to visit the
+Pointe du Raz, a <corr sic="promonotory">promontory</corr> so famous for its
+rocks and wrecks. We went through a treeless
+country; near a pretty bay, on the left, is the chapel
+of Notre Dame-de-Bon-Voyage, destined chiefly for
+sailors, after which the country becomes more wild,
+barren, and cheerless. We passed over a bridge which
+no Breton would dare to cross at night, for fear of
+being flung by the spirits into the river. According
+to their belief, a hare appears on the bridge, and
+terrifies the horses, who throw their rider, and the
+traveller is dragged by the phantom into the muddy
+river, where he is kept till morning's dawn, when he
+is allowed to pursue his way, exhausted with cold, and
+half dead with fright. They are very superstitious
+here, as in all Cornouaille. A writer says, "every
+nation of the earth has its superstitions and absurdities,
+but Brittany has those of all other nations
+united." An old woman in a village hard by, said
+our driver, has never been seen inside the walls of a
+church; the people say she has sold herself to the
+evil one, and no one dares go near or speak to her.</p>
+
+<p>On the left is the pretty steeple of the church of
+Plogoff, situated on an eminence, and dedicated to
+Saint Coll�doc, a Welsh bishop of the sixth century,
+contemporary of King Arthur, and associated with
+many of the doings of Queen Guinevre and the
+knights of the Round Table. Lescoff is the last
+<pb n="272"/><anchor id="Pg272"/>
+village we passed through before&mdash;after driving over
+a barren plain&mdash;we arrived at the lighthouse, built
+thirty years back at the Pointe.</p>
+
+<p>We walked thence to the Pointe, a gigantic and
+magnificent mass of rocks, eighty feet above the level
+of the sea. We met with a good-natured woman,
+who led the young people over the rocks to look
+down the "Enfer de Plogoff." They had a slippery
+scramble to reach the hole, a kind of tunnel through
+which the sea rushes with great violence, so much
+more terrible than that of Penmarch, that the noise
+has been compared to the distant roaring of some
+thousands of wild beasts issuing from the depths of
+a forest. In the mean time, we remained seated on the
+bank enjoying the view. On the south lay the Bay
+of Audierne, extending in the form of a crescent, the
+promontories of Penmarch and Raz forming the
+extreme points. The currents, and the numerous
+rocks of the bay, render it a dangerous coast, formerly
+peopled by barbarous wreckers, who despoiled
+the shipwrecked mariners as our Cornish men of old.
+Opposite the Raz, about seven miles distant, is the
+Island of Sein, and to the right, the Baie des Tr�pass�s.
+The island of Sein was anciently the seat of
+an oracle, interpreted by nine Druidesses, who were
+versed in every art and science. Moreover, they
+appear to have been accomplished needlewomen; for
+a Breton chronicler, giving an account of the <corr sic="corronation">coronation</corr>
+<pb n="273"/><anchor id="Pg273"/>
+of an early king (Erech) at Nantes, describes
+his mantle as embroidered by these priestesses with
+figures of Arithmetic, Astronomy, and Music. Their
+skill in divination caused them to be associated with
+the fairies; and Morgan&mdash;<hi rend="italic">i.e.</hi> "born of the sea"&mdash;one
+of these priestesses, who lived in the first century of
+the Christian era, was famous among the British
+fairies.</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Avec succ�s cultivait la magie,</q></l>
+<l><q rend="post">Morgan de plus, �tait assez jolie.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>Chateaubriand celebrates Velleda, the last of the
+Druidesses of Sein, tall in stature, her eyes blue, with
+long fair floating hair, dressed in a short black tunic,
+without sleeves, bearing a golden sickle suspended
+from a brazen girdle, and crowned with a branch of
+oak. Here King Arthur was brought by Merlin to
+recover of his wounds. The inhabitants of the island
+were celebrated for their ferocity as wreckers.</p>
+
+<p>The passage between the island and the point
+or Bec du Raz&mdash;"qu'aucun n'a pass� sans mal ou
+sans crainte"&mdash;is very dangerous, owing to the
+number of rocks and the violence of the currents;
+hence the well-known prayer of the Breton sailor,
+"Mon Dieu, secourez-moi pour traverser le Raz,
+car mon navire est petit et la mer est grande."
+Having no wish to run the risk of being detained
+at the island by rough weather, we did not attempt
+the passage.</p>
+<pb n="274"/><anchor id="Pg274"/>
+
+<p>The Baie des Tr�pass�s, over which we looked on
+the right, is so called from the Celtic legend that
+the Druids embarked in this bay after their death, to
+be buried in the island of Sein:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Autrefois, un esprit venait, d'une voix forte;</q></l>
+<l>Appeler chaque nuit un p�cheur sur sa porte;</l>
+<l>Arriv� dans la baie, on trouvait un bateau</l>
+<l>Si lourd et si charg� de morts qu'il faisait eau,</l>
+<l>Et pourtant il fallait, malgr� vent et mar�e,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Les mener jusqu'� Sein, jusqu'� l'�le sacr�e.</q></l>
+<l rend="right"><bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Brizeux</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>The bay also derives its name from the numerous
+shipwrecks that have taken place on its rocks, and
+from the number of corpses that have been floated
+there by the currents from ships foundered in the
+gulf comprised between the entrance of Brest, the
+Ou�ssant Islands, and Sein. The whole extent of
+the coast of Brittany is one long wall of rocks, placed
+as it were to protect it from the inroads of the sea
+and from foreign invasion. Heaped one over the
+other, they resemble the bastions of a citadel, the
+advanced rocks extending out to sea, jutting up in
+every direction in endless reefs. Or its line of coast
+may be compared to the jagged teeth of a comb,
+with a second line of defence in the rocks further
+out to sea.</p>
+
+<p>On the desolate shore of the Baie des Tr�pass�s is
+a piece of water, the �tang de Laoual, site of the city
+of Is&mdash;submerged by Divine vengeance, according
+<pb n="275"/><anchor id="Pg275"/>
+to popular tradition, in the fifth century&mdash;a place of
+great commerce, arts, riches, and also of luxury.
+Gradlon, or Grallo, the king, alone attempted to
+stem the torrent. Built in the vast basin which now
+forms the Bay of Douarnenez, it was protected from
+the ocean by a strong dyke, the sluices only admitting
+sufficient water to supply the town. King Gradlon
+kept the silver key (which opened, at the same time,
+the great sluice and the city gates) suspended round
+his neck. His palace was of marble, cedar, and gold;
+in the midst of a brilliant Court sat enthroned his
+daughter Dahut, a princess who "had made a crown
+of her vices, and had taken for her pages the seven
+capital sins." Taking advantage of the sleep of her
+father, Dahut one night stole the silver key, and
+instead of opening the city gate, by mistake unlocked
+the sluices. The King was awakened by
+St. Guenol�, who commanded him to flee, as the
+torrent was reaching the palace.  He mounted
+his horse, taking his worthless daughter behind
+him. The torrent was gaining upon him fast,
+when a voice from behind called out, "Throw the
+demon thou carriest into the sea, if thou dost not
+desire to perish." Dahut felt her strength failing
+her; the hands that convulsively grasped her father's
+waist relaxed their hold; she rolled into the water,
+disappeared, and the torrent immediately stopped
+its course. The King reached Quimper safe and
+<pb n="276"/><anchor id="Pg276"/>
+sound, and that town became afterwards the capital
+of Cornouaille.</p>
+
+<p>So runs the legend. That a great city once
+existed in the Bay of Douarnenez admits of no
+doubt. Besides the religious chronicles of the
+country, which have preserved the memory of its
+existence, in the sixteenth century, remains of old
+edifices were standing at the entrance of the bay,
+old paved roads have been traced, and walls found
+under water near the Pointe du Raz.</p>
+
+<p>The tradition of a town thus swallowed up is
+common among the Celtic race. In Wales, the site
+of the submerged city is in Cardigan Bay; in Ireland,
+in Lough Neagh:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">On Lough Neagh's banks, where the fisherman strays,</q></l>
+<l rend="margin-left:8">At the hour of eve's declining,</l>
+<l>He sees the round towers of other days</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:8"><q rend="post">Beneath the waters shining.</q>&mdash;<bibl><author rend="smallcaps">Moore</author></bibl>.</l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>One of our party went out fishing to the Pointe,
+and returned well laden with his spoils.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image57.jpg">
+    <head>57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>The road from Audierne to Douarnenez passes by
+Pontcroix, a little town on the same river (Goazien)
+as Audierne, along which the road runs&mdash;a charming
+drive. It has a magnificent Romanesque church of
+the twelfth (probably of the fifteenth) century, with
+a remarkable porch, richly embroidered in quatrefoils
+and trefoils. A tower in the centre, with octagonal
+spire is second to none in Cornouaille, except that
+<pb n="277"/><anchor id="Pg277"/>
+<pb n="278"/><anchor id="Pg278"/>
+<pb n="279"/><anchor id="Pg279"/>
+of Quimper. The arches of the nave are horseshoe,
+the transepts very narrow. Under the altar of the
+Lady Chapel is a "C�ne," half the size of nature,
+sculptured in ivory and marble, of marvellous workmanship.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame de-Comfort, near Douarnenez.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image58.jpg">
+    <head>58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame <lb />de-Comfort, near Douarnenez.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Eleven miles from Douarnenez we stopped to see
+the pretty little chapel of Notre Dame-de-Comfort,
+in a hamlet of that name, with light open-work
+steeple. Attached to one of the arches, on the left
+of the choir, is a wooden wheel, hung round with
+bells, to which is attached
+a long string.
+It is erroneously
+called "the wheel of
+fortune;" but is, in
+fact, the old wheel of
+sacring bells in use
+before the single
+bell was adopted. The boy who showed us the
+chapel pulled the string which was fastened to a
+hook near the altar, and the wheel revolved and rang
+a merry peal. Formerly there was a little wooden
+figure attached to the wheel, which performed the
+same office. The road runs round a hill, along an
+estuary formed by the river, and suddenly the beautiful
+lake, called the Bay of Douarnenez, bursts on
+the sight, of a blue as lovely as the Italian seas.</p>
+
+<p>The dirty little town of Douarnenez is charmingly
+<pb n="280"/><anchor id="Pg280"/>
+situated to the south of the bay, the hills clothed
+with trees to the water's edge. The Pointe du Raz
+forms the western boundary of the bay, and it is shut
+in to the north by the peninsula of Crozon; its extreme
+point, Pointe de la Ch�vre, advancing nearly
+midway into the bay. The tide here falls eighteen
+feet. The triple peaks of the M�n�-Hom, one of
+the Montagnes Noires, is a prominent feature in the
+view. Islands are scattered over the gulf, and the
+island of Tristan, retreat of Fontenelle le Ligueur,
+is so close to Douarnenez, that it may be reached on
+foot at low water.</p>
+
+<p>The hotel was crammed, gentlemen sleeping on
+the billiard-table, or littered down in the room of
+the table-d'h�te: the place was crowded. All the
+world had flocked in to assist at the Pardon of Sainte
+Anne-la-Palue, which was to take place the following
+morning. No vehicle was to be had, and we were
+in despair of being able to go, when a good-natured
+voyageur kindly offered to drive us in his carriage&mdash;a
+proposal we thankfully accepted. In all our wanderings
+we had hitherto never been so fortunate as
+to see a Pardon, and we were very anxious to go.</p>
+
+<p>The Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue takes place
+the last Sunday in August, continuing three days,
+and is one of the most frequented in Finist�re.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 59. Costume of a Finist�re Bride.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image59.jpg">
+    <head>59. Costume of a Finist�re Bride.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>At Plonevez-Porzun we turned off the Crozon
+road, and about two miles further arrived at the
+<pb n="281"/><anchor id="Pg281"/>
+chapel. The road all the way was lined with peasants
+walking to the Pardon. The young men of Douarnenez
+wear blue jackets, embroidered in colours,
+with rows of plated buttons, the sleeves and waistcoat
+of a darker blue than the jacket, scarlet sashes, some
+with plaited bragou bras and shining leather gaiters;
+but most of them wore trowsers, their hair long, and
+their hats with two or three rows of coloured variegated
+<pb n="282"/><anchor id="Pg282"/>
+chenille. The women had square caps, and
+aprons with bibs. Those who were in mourning
+wore light yellow caps, called "bourladins," stained
+that colour with beeswax or saffron.</p>
+
+<p>St. Anne is a newly-built church, standing on the
+slope of a down which separates it from the sea, in a
+perfectly insulated situation. It is only opened once
+a year for the Pardon. Round it were erected
+numerous stalls, with toys, epinglettes, and rosaries
+(chapelets), in heaps for sale; for rosaries must always
+be purchased at the Pardon, to preserve the wearer
+from thunder and hydrophobia. The great fabric
+for them is at Angers, where they are made in
+immense quantities. In the principal manufactory
+a steam-engine is used for turning the beads; in the
+others the common lathe. One maker told us she
+sent annually into Brittany alone rosaries to the
+value of 800<hi rend="italic">l</hi>. There were tents and booths erected
+for the accommodation of the pilgrims who had
+arrived the preceding day. They eat, drink, and
+dance in the tents by day, and sleep on the tables at
+night.</p>
+
+<p>At ten o'clock, at the ringing of a bell, a procession
+was formed, consisting of a long line of peasants,
+preceded by priests and banners, which made the
+round of the church; the penitents, en chemise to
+the waist, barefooted, carrying wax-tapers in their
+hands. The penance is sometimes executed by
+<pb n="283"/><anchor id="Pg283"/>
+proxy: a rich sinner may, for a small sum, get his
+penance performed by another. One woman made
+the round of the church on her knees, telling her
+beads as she hobbled along. This was in performance
+of a vow made for some special deliverance.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded to the top of the hill, from which
+the beautiful Bay of Douarnenez presented a most
+lively appearance; fleets of small boats arriving from
+every direction, and a huge steamer from Brest,
+which was obliged to land its passengers in small
+boats, on account of the shallowness of the water.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the downs now became very
+animated, covered with gaily-dressed peasants arranged
+in groups, sitting or lying on the grass, in
+every kind of attitude.</p>
+
+<p>At four o'clock the grand procession took place.
+First came the priests of all the surrounding districts,
+with the banners and crosses of their parishes; then
+followed five girls (three and two) in white, carrying
+a banner, and eight more in similar attire, bearing a
+statue of the Virgin. Next appeared the banner of
+Sainte Anne, carried by women in the gorgeous costume
+of the commune&mdash;gowns of cherry-coloured
+silk, trimmed half the way up with gold lace, a silver
+lace scarf, and aprons of gold tissue or rich silk
+brocade. Under their lace caps was a cap of gold
+or silver tissue. Four more of these superbly-dressed
+bearers ("porteuses") carried the statue of Ste. Anne.</p>
+<pb n="284"/><anchor id="Pg284"/>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image60.jpg">
+    <head>60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Girls carrying blue flags walked by their side. Troops
+of barefooted penitents and shaggy-headed beggars
+closed the procession, which was followed by a countless
+train of the peasants. It slowly wound its way
+over the hill, and again descended to the church,
+<pb n="285"/><anchor id="Pg285"/>
+where it mingled among the crowds of assembled
+spectators, which filled the churchyard and were
+seated on the steps of the calvary.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the church is the holy well of Ste.
+Anne, where devotees were engaged pouring the
+holy water over their hands and backs, dipping their
+children, and testing its miraculous efficacy by various
+other ablutions.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded next morning to Quimper, having
+had no opportunity of seeing Douarnenez itself. In
+the season it is a favourite watering-place, the bathing
+being about two miles from the town. It is a great
+place for the sardine fishery. From Quimper we
+went by rail to Rosporden, whence an omnibus runs
+to Concarneau. The church of Rosporden is situated
+on a little promontory, jutting out into a large �tang
+fed by the river Aven, which runs through it and
+flows on to Pontaven.</p>
+
+<p>We took a carriage at Rosporden for Le Faou�t,
+passing by Sca�r on the Isole, a stream which rises
+at the foot of the Montagnes Noires, takes a curve
+round the town of Sca�r, and joins the Laita. It is
+full of trout and salmon.</p>
+
+<p>Sca�r is a town remarkable for having preserved
+many old customs and superstitions; among others,
+the bees are considered to be entitled to share in the
+joys and sorrows of the family. Their hives are surrounded
+with a red stuff on the occasion of a marriage;
+<pb n="286"/><anchor id="Pg286"/>
+with a black on that of a death. This custom
+is still preserved in Wales. In all parts of Brittany
+bees are treated with special affection. As the redbreast
+is sacred, because she broke a thorn from the
+crown of our Lord that pierced His brow, so are the
+bees revered because, as we learn from the code of
+Hoel the Good, though they were sent from heaven
+to earth after the fall of man, the blessing of Heaven
+has ever followed them in their exile. This, too, is
+the reason the wax they produce has the privilege of
+lighting the altars for the divine office.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 61. Cross Stones.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w25" url="images/image61.jpg">
+    <head>61. Cross Stones.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>It was the day of a Pardon, and the peasants were
+all in gala dresses. A wrestling match unfortunately
+had just been finished; for throughout Cornouaille
+wrestling has been, from time immemorial, as favourite
+a game as in our county of the same name.
+Our driver tried without success to procure for us
+some of the little double crystals, intersecting each
+other at right angles,
+called "pierre de croix"&mdash;by
+mineralogists grenatite&mdash;found
+in the Coatdry,
+a small affluent of
+the Aven, washed out of the mica slaty rocks in
+which they abound. The peasants assign to them
+a miraculous origin, and wear them in little bags
+round the neck as charms against headache, blindness,
+shipwreck, and hydrophobia, being, as they
+<pb n="287"/><anchor id="Pg287"/>
+allege, signed with the cross. According to tradition,
+a pagan chief, having, in his impious rage,
+thrown down the cross in the chapel of Coatdry,
+Heaven, in memorial of the outrage, placed the sacred
+symbol upon the stones of the river.</p>
+
+<p>At Le Faou�t we again entered the department of
+the Morbihan. This pretty little town is situated
+between the Sterlaer and the Ell�. We first walked
+to see the chapel of Ste. Barbe, perched, in the most
+singular manner, in the cleft of a high rock, about a
+mile from the town.</p>
+
+<p>After a steep climb we reached the plateau of the
+hill, where is the monument of a M. Berenger, who
+desired to be buried in this elevated spot, which
+commands a charming view of the surrounding
+country, the silvery waters of the Ell� winding at the
+base of the mountain. We then descended, by a
+flight of handsome, broad, granite steps, with balustrades,
+to the chapel, placed on so narrow a space
+that it was impossible to give it the usual inclination
+to the east. The entrance-porch is to the southwest,
+and the high altar opposite, against the walls
+of the chapel, to the north-east. On the top of the
+steps is the belfry, consisting of a roof, supported by
+four columns. The day of the Pardon each pilgrim
+rings the bell. The chapel was built in this singular
+spot, according to tradition, by a knight, who was
+overtaken by a storm in the valley of the Ell� beneath.
+<pb n="288"/><anchor id="Pg288"/>
+He saw an enormous mass of detached rock on the
+point of falling down and crushing him, when he
+invoked the intercession of Sainte Barbe, the guardian
+saint against thunder, promising to build her a chapel,
+if delivered from the danger. His prayer was heard;
+the rock was stayed in its descent and rested on the
+cleft, where, next day, the grateful knight began
+building the chapel, as a thank-offering for his
+escape. Above Ste. Barbe, stationed on an insulated
+rock, one of the highest peaks in Brittany, is a small
+chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, also approached by
+a flight of stone steps, like Ste. Barbe, with bridge
+built over an archway. The rock on which it stands
+is so abrupt, that rings are placed along the sides of the
+chapel for the pilgrims, when creeping round, to hold
+on by. Many have perished in the attempt; none,
+they say, have ever succeeded in making the circuit.</p>
+
+<p>There was a wedding at Le Faou�t during our stay
+there. Guests, invited from all quarters, to the
+number of 250, arrived in their gala costumes, some
+of them magnificent: one woman wore a gown
+entirely of gold tissue; it was her wedding-dress.
+The musicians, with biniou and hautboy, went round
+to summon the guests. We saw the procession
+going to church. The bride was prettily dressed,
+with a high cap, beautifully "got up," pointed in
+form, and trimmed with lace, and embroidered; a
+muslin apron, also lace-trimmed, and a double muslin
+<pb n="289"/><anchor id="Pg289"/>
+shawl, similarly trimmed, the lace beautifully plaited;
+a violet silk dress, white moire sash, and a small
+bunch of white flowers. The bridegroom was "en
+bourgeois." Outside the church door were tables,
+laid out with cakes; after the service the bride and
+all the party took each a cake and put money in the
+plates, as an offering for the poor. They next
+adjourned to the Place, where they danced three
+"gavottes" under the trees. The ceremony of
+stealing away the bride then took place; that is, she
+was chased by some dozen of the youths of the company,
+and he who had the good fortune to capture
+her she treated to a cup of coffee at a caf�. Dinner
+followed, and then they returned to the interminable
+gavotte. They hold each other's hands "en grand
+rond," then wind themselves round the centre couple,
+executing most elaborate steps, and uncoil again to
+return to the grand rond. We counted as many as
+thirty couples in one gavotte. These festivities last
+two, or sometimes three, days, during which time all
+the wedding party are entertained free of expense.</p>
+
+<p>Le Faou�t is a great fishing quarter. The Ell�,
+which flows round the town, is a stream of considerable
+size; and, four miles below Le Faou�t, it is
+joined by the Laita, and before Quimperl� unites
+its waters with the Isole, whence its mingled streams
+flow into the Atlantic, under the name of the Laita.
+We were told that large fish were taken in a pond
+<pb n="290"/><anchor id="Pg290"/>
+in the grounds of the Abbey of Langonnet, not far
+from Le Faou�t, but it is strictly preserved.</p>
+
+<p>The people of this district retain all the old
+Breton superstitions; they believe in the Car of
+Death, drawn by six black horses, driven by the
+"Ankou," or Phantom of Death, with an iron whip.
+They also have full faith in the Washerwomen of
+the Night (Lavandi�res de la Nuit), who wash the
+shrouds for the dead, and fill the air with their
+melodious songs:&mdash;</p>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Si chr�tien ne vient nous sauver,</q></l>
+<l>Jusqu'au jugement faut laver:</l>
+<l>Au clair de la lune, au bruit du vent,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">Sous la neige, le linceul blanc.</q></l>
+</lg><lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">If no good soul our hands will stay,</q></l>
+<l>We must toil on till judgment-day:</l>
+<l>In strong wind or clear moonlight,</l>
+<l><q rend="post">We must wash the death-shroud white.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>They engage the passer-by to help them in wringing
+the linen; if he refuses, they drown him in their
+washing trough, or suffocate him in a wet sheet.
+Should he show himself ill-disposed, after having
+agreed to help them, they dislocate his arm. If he
+wrings the wrong way, his fate is inevitable; but if
+docile and obliging, they give him some clothes and
+dismiss him.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 62. Rood-Screen or Jub�, St Fiacre.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image62.jpg">
+    <head>62. Rood-Screen or Jub�, St Fiacre.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>A mile and a half from Le Faou�t, on a height
+a little off the Quimperl� road, is the beautiful
+<pb n="291"/><anchor id="Pg291"/>
+<pb n="292"/><anchor id="Pg292"/>
+<pb n="293"/><anchor id="Pg293"/>
+church of Saint Fiacre, dating from the middle of
+the fifteenth century, celebrated for its carved
+wooden jub�, or rood-screen, and its painted glass.
+The church is falling to decay. It would be tedious
+to enumerate all the figures, and describe the details
+of this beautiful jub�. The carving is a perfect
+tracery of lace-work. Three large figures represent
+our Saviour and the two thieves. Then there are
+the Virgin and St. Joseph; the latter, with carpenter's
+plane and hammer. Below, Adam and Eve,
+and the Angel with the flaming sword. Two angels
+hold cartouches, on one of which is inscribed, "L'an
+mil C/IIII XX/IIII (1480) fut fait cette sculpture par Olivier
+de Loergan;" and, on the other, "Cette passion fut
+peinte l'an 1627. Yves Perez fabricant. Tous repaint
+en 1866." Below are panels carved in the flamboyant
+style, of exquisite workmanship. The two
+middle panels have the sacred monogram, those on
+the east side ermines surrounded by cordeli�res.</p>
+
+<p>The side of the rood-loft facing the choir has
+pendents with grotesque carvings of allegorical signification.</p>
+
+<p>A man in an apple-tree, gathering the fruit,
+symbolizes theft. Next comes a disgusting representation
+of gluttony: a man relieving himself of a
+pig he has swallowed, the tail alone remaining in
+his mouth. Then follow a young man and woman,
+gaily attired, emblematic of luxury. So far, three
+<pb n="294"/><anchor id="Pg294"/>
+of the "sept p�ch�s capitaux" are represented; but
+after these comes a national subject: a man playing
+on the bagpipe. The figures throughout the rood-screen
+are all boldly executed, and the tracery most
+elegant and delicate.</p>
+
+<p>The painted glass in the church is considerable,
+and represents the Life of Our Saviour, that of St.
+Fiacre, the Feast of Herod, and the Martyrdom of
+the Baptist, figures of the Prophets of the Old
+Testament, with many others. In most of the subjects,
+the figures are much mutilated. On one
+window is inscribed, "Pierre Androuet ouvrier demeurant
+� Kemperl� 1552." Over one altar is a
+sculpture, representing the Martyrdom of Saint
+Sebastian, between two archers, in the quaint costume
+of the sixteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>About six miles from Le Faou�t, is the ruined
+castle of Poncallec, with its forest, �tang, and forge;
+once the demesne of the young marquis of that
+name, who was implicated in that conspiracy to
+transfer the Regency from the Duke of Orleans to
+Philip V. of Spain, called the plot of Cellamare. Of
+the hundred and forty-eight gentlemen included in
+the accusation, all escaped to Spain, except Poncallec
+and three others. Poncallec refused to
+accompany them from a superstitious fear, a fortune-teller
+having foretold he should perish by the
+sea, "par la mer." They took refuge in a church,
+<pb n="295"/><anchor id="Pg295"/>
+but were surprised by a party of cavaliers who had
+muffled the feet of their horses to reach them unheard.
+They escaped through a subterranean passage,
+and, for fifteen days, lay concealed in the
+hollow of a yew-tree, fed in secret by faithful
+peasants. Poncallec traversed France in the disguise
+of a priest, but was arrested at the Pyrenees.
+He with the three others were all convicted of high
+treason, and, a few hours after their condemnation,
+were beheaded at Nantes. Poncallec was the last to
+suffer. When ascending the scaffold, he asked the
+executioner his name; on his answering "La Mer,"
+Poncallec felt the witch's prophecy was fulfilled.</p>
+
+<p>The estates of the four victims were confiscated,
+their arms effaced from the fronts of their houses,
+the moats of their castles filled in, and their trees
+(hautes futaies) cut down, "� hauteur d'infamie,"
+that is, within nine feet of the ground, in like
+manner as were those of Moor Park, after the
+execution of the Duke of Monmouth. A list was
+presented to the Regent Philip of other offenders,
+but he tore the paper, and published an amnesty.
+The story of Poncallec is dramatically told by
+Alexandre Dumas, in his novel, called 'Une fille du
+Regent.' The Bretons honoured the victims as
+martyrs, and M. de la Villemarqu�, in his 'Chansons
+Bretons,' gives a touching elegy which shows the
+sympathy excited by the tragic fate of Poncallec:</p>
+<pb n="296"/><anchor id="Pg296"/>
+
+<lg rend="display">
+<l><q rend="pre">Quand il arriva � Nantes, il fut jug� et condamn�,</q></l>
+<l rend="margin-left:4">Condamn� non par ses pairs,</l>
+<l>Mais par des gens tomb�s de derri�re les carrosses.</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:6">Ils demand�rent � Poncallec:</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:6">'Seigneur marquis, qu'avez vous fait?</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:6">&mdash;Mon devoir; faites notre m�tier.'</l>
+<l>Il est mort, chers pauvres, celui qui vous nourissait,</l>
+<l>Qui vous v�tissait, qui vous soutenait;</l>
+<l>Il est mort celui qui vous aimait, habitants de Bern�</l>
+<l>Celui qui aimait son pays et qui l'a aim� jusqu'� mourir.</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:8">Il est mort � vingt-deux ans</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:2">Comme meurent les martyrs et les saints;</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:8">Que dieu ait piti� de son �me!</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:2">Le seigneur est mort &hellip; Ma voix s'�teint, &hellip;</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:2">Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit, sois maudit;</l>
+<l rend="margin-left:8"><q rend="post">Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit.</q></l>
+</lg>
+
+<p>We left Le Faou�t and its comfortable primitive
+inn, the "Lion d'Or," with much regret; the
+country around is beautiful, and we had arranged
+to set out early that we might cross the Montagnes
+Noires by daylight; but we were disappointed in
+procuring a carriage, and it was not till late in the
+afternoon that we were able to leave in a diligence,
+of which the coup� alone was reserved to us, the
+interior being occupied by Breton farmers, returning
+from a horse-fair. From the elevated wooded
+ground of Le Faou�t, the road makes a precipitous
+descent, and crosses the little stream of Moulin-au-duc,
+after which it again rises, in a winding direction,
+along the side of a mountain with a valley
+and little stream beneath. Then a rapid descent
+<pb n="297"/><anchor id="Pg297"/>
+brought us to Gourin, where we would gladly have
+risked staying the night, and waited till morning to
+pursue our road over the mountains, but we had
+paid our fare to Carhaix. Up hill and down again,
+like all the roads in mountainous Finist�re, from
+Gourin we ascended again and passed a crest of the
+Montagnes Noires, which separates the three departments
+of Finist�re, Morbihan, and C�tes-du-Nord;
+and proceeded through a valley to Carhaix,
+where we arrived at midnight, and therefore had no
+opportunity of seeing the beauties of the mountain
+scenery.</p>
+
+<p>Carhaix is a dirty, unpaved, dull town of the
+middle ages, much decayed from its ancient importance
+when capital of the country dismembered
+from Cornouaille, in the sixth century, by Comorre
+the Breton Bluebeard. It is situated on an eminence,
+commanding an extensive view of the barren
+monotonous surrounding country, bounded by the
+Arr� mountains, the Alps of Finist�re. It is
+the centre of Lower Brittany, and the Duke
+d'Aiguillon, Minister of Louis XV., caused six
+roads to be made from it to Brest, Quimper,
+Morlaix, St. Brieux, Vannes, and Ch�teaulin, with
+the hope of introducing commerce and civilisation
+into this barren district, "le dernier trou du monde,"
+as it is styled by the Parisian.</p>
+
+<p>La Tour d'Auvergne, Premier Grenadier de
+<pb n="298"/><anchor id="Pg298"/>
+France, was born here, and a bronze statue of
+him, by Marochetti, has been erected to his memory.
+He is in the uniform of a private soldier,
+and presses to his heart the sword of honour just
+presented to him by the First Consul. Round the
+pedestal are four bas-reliefs, representing scenes in
+his life. In the first, he saves a wounded soldier;
+in the second, he forces the gates of Chambery;
+in the third, he takes leave of the parents of a youth,
+for whom he goes as a substitute into the army.
+The last represents his death; he was killed by a
+lance at Ober-hausen (Bavaria), fighting against the
+Austrians. The monument bears this inscription
+on its four sides:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p rend="small"><q rend="pre">La Tour d'Auvergne, 1^er Grenadier de France, n� � Carhaix
+le 23 Decembre, 1715; mort au champ d'honneur le 27
+Juin, 1800.</q></p>
+
+<p rend="small"><q rend="pre">Ecrivain, Citoyen, Soldat, sa vie toujours glorieusement
+remplie ne laisse que de sublimes exemples � la posterit�.</q></p>
+
+<p rend="small"><q rend="pre">Tant de talens, et de vertus, appartenaient � l'histoire et
+au premier Consul, de les devancer.</q></p>
+
+<p rend="small"><q>Celui qui meurt dans une lutte sacr�e trouve pour le repos
+une patrie m�me sur la terre etrang�re.</q></p>
+
+<p>Preferring the title of "Premier Grenadier de
+France" to higher honours, La Tour d'Auvergne
+remained as a private soldier to his death; but in
+a decree of Buonaparte, then First Consul, preserved
+in the Mus�e des Archives, he orders that
+La Tour d'Auvergne's name should still be kept on
+<pb n="299"/><anchor id="Pg299"/>
+the muster-roll of his old regiment; and, when called,
+the corporal should answer, "Mort au champ
+d'honneur!"</p>
+
+<p>The moderation and absence of ambition in the
+character of La Tour d'Auvergne is expressed in a
+letter to Le Coq, Bishop of Ille-et-Vilaine. He
+writes,&mdash;"Je me prosterne bien plus volontiers devant
+la Providence pour le remercier que pour rien
+demander; du pain, du lait, la libert�; et une c&oelig;ur
+qui ne puisse jamais s'ouvrir � l'ambition, voil�
+l'objet de tous mes d�sirs."</p>
+
+<p>La Tour d'Auvergne had a learned dog, which
+he educated as a soldier; he went through the
+whole drill, and his master made him always wear
+boots. He marched in them, on one occasion, the
+whole distance from Paris to Guingamp.</p>
+
+<p>A horse fair and market were going on at Carhaix.
+Some of the women wore curious flannel
+hoods, edged with colours. There were baskets of
+burnt limpet shells and lime, used in washing as
+substitutes for soap. In the porch of the church
+dedicated to St. Tremeur (son of the Bluebeard
+Comorre) are some of the little skull-boxes so
+common in the north of Brittany. One was labelled,
+"Ci g�t le chef de Mr. Thomas Fran�ois Nonet,
+ancien notaire et maire de la ville de Carhaix le 28
+J^ier 1776, d�c�d�e le 8 7^bre 1842." The curfew bell
+rings at Carhaix at a quarter to ten.</p>
+<pb n="300"/><anchor id="Pg300"/>
+
+<p>We left next day for Huelgoat, fifteen miles distant,
+the road up and down, wild and dreary. At
+Pont Pierre, about nine miles from Carhaix, we
+crossed the Aulne, even here a considerable river,
+with a beautiful thick forest on our right. At a
+place called La Grande Halte, we turned off the
+road to the right for Huelgoat, about a mile and a
+half off. It is prettily situated on a large pond or
+lake, nearly a mile and a half in circumference, and
+of great depth (20 feet). It was market day; the
+men wore brown serge coats, close white breeches
+and black gaiters, with straw hats bound with black.
+The countrymen from Saint Herbot were there in
+their black shaggy goat or sheepskin overcoats, the
+hair turned outwards (there are flocks of black sheep
+throughout Finist�re), without sleeves, and the white
+breeches, black gaiters, and straw hats. The women
+of Huelgoat wear large white turnover collars and
+caps with long ends turned up.</p>
+
+<p>We first walked to the rocking stone on the slope
+of a steep hill, considered the third largest in Brittany;
+the block forming a kind of double cube,
+that is, about twice the length of its height. It
+requires a very slight impulse to make it rock. This
+"fairy stone" is often consulted by the peasants. In
+the ravine close by, below the path, is what is called
+the "Cuisine de Madame Marie," but termed in the
+guide-books the "M�nage de la Vierge;" a recess
+<pb n="301"/><anchor id="Pg301"/>
+formed of large masses of fantastically shaped granite
+rocks, through which a small stream of water flows,
+arriving thither from the pond, by a subterranean
+course. One stone, hollowed out, is called the
+�cuelle of the Virgin, and others have each the
+name of some different utensil requisite for the
+"M�nage" of our Lady. The young people managed
+to scramble to the bottom.</p>
+
+<p>Huelgoat (Breton, "high wood") is celebrated for
+its lead-mines, which are now no longer worked. A
+well-kept path, cut on the top of the ridge, leads to
+the mines, about two miles and a half distant, along
+a neat little canal, three feet wide, issuing from the
+great pond, and supplying the hydraulic machine
+used to pump the water out of the mine. The
+deeply wooded valley, along the ridge of which it
+runs, is traversed by a rushing stream, which runs
+over rocks; and at a place called Le Gouffre, the
+rounded granite masses are piled in the wildest confusion,
+like those of the M�nage de la Vierge, forming
+a large dark cavern, at the bottom of which the
+imprisoned river foams and roars, and has forced
+itself an escape through a gorge at some distance
+from the place, where it is lost to view. A young
+girl is said, about a century back, to have fallen
+down this gulf. Attempting to gather some of the
+mosses that line the sides of the rocks, she slipped in
+and perished in the sight of her intended. Her body
+<pb n="302"/><anchor id="Pg302"/>
+never reappeared, but our guide assured us that her
+ghost was seen four years since, and that sighs and
+groans are to be heard at eve issuing from the fatal
+chasm.</p>
+
+<p>The pretty little ivy-leaved campanula was growing
+here in abundance. We visited in succession
+the "robber's cave," the "Pierre cintr�" (a natural
+archway), and other wonders, and returned much
+pleased with the infinite variety of fantastic rocks,
+rushing waters, and hanging woods, which form this
+charming scene.</p>
+
+<p>The lead-mines of Huelgoat have been worked
+since the fifteenth century for the silver which the
+lead-ore (galena) contains.</p>
+
+<p>The right of working these mines and those of
+Poullaouen was given by Louis XIII. to Jean du
+Ch�telet, Baron of Beausoleil, and his wife. He
+was at that time General of the Mines in Hungary,
+and inspector of the French mines. They were
+accompanied by German miners, but their mysterious
+researches caused them to be accused of sorcery
+and magic. Richelieu had them imprisoned in the
+Bastille, where they both died, victims of the fanaticism
+of the age, and the works were abandoned till
+the eighteenth century. They are now no longer in
+operation, but it is said are about to be re-opened.</p>
+
+<p>Retracing our steps to La Grande Halte, on the
+Carhaix road, we turned off to the left to see the cascade
+<pb n="303"/><anchor id="Pg303"/>
+of St. Herbot. We left our carriage, and
+walked up a hill covered with underwood, opposite
+the fall. The cascade is formed by the little river
+Elez falling through a mountain gorge about 650
+feet <del>in</del> in length, filled with granite rocks of every
+shape and size, the sides overhung with woods of
+oak. The height of the fall is 230 feet.</p>
+
+<p>There was no water in the cascade. At the best,
+it must be only a succession of small falls. The
+river tumbles from rock to rock, forming on some
+of the ledges pools of water, filled with small trout,
+some of which were caught by our party.</p>
+
+<p>According to the legend, a giant of the country,
+wishing to clear the fields of his friend, a Druid,
+from the rocks that encumbered them, rolled them
+down the torrent.</p>
+
+<p>We descended the hill to the road where we had
+left our carriage, and went to the chapel of St.
+Herbot, a building of the sixteenth century, on the
+side of a rushing brook. It has a high square tower
+opening into the church, and a rood-screen of wood
+beautifully carved in the style of the Renaissance,
+which forms three sides round the altar. Two angels
+are represented with cups, the "sainte graal" receiving
+the blood of Christ. The entrance to the
+church is up a flight of steps. It has a beautifully
+sculptured south porch, with statues of the Apostles,
+and some fine painted-glass windows. One part of
+<pb n="304"/><anchor id="Pg304"/>
+the church has the windows with iron bars, as if for
+defence.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image63.jpg">
+    <head>63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>Near the altar is the tomb of the anchorite, St.
+Herbot; his effigy reposes under a Gothic canopy,
+upon a granite sarcophagus, represented in his hermit's
+gown, the hood thrown back, flowing hair, long
+beard, his breviary suspended to his girdle, and his
+pilgrim's staff by his left arm. His feet repose on a
+recumbent lion. St. Herbot is the great patron of
+cattle; the three days of the fair and pardon all the
+bullocks rest; and when an animal is ill, an offering
+of his hair is made to the saint. We saw a heap of
+horsehair and cows' tails lying on one of the altars.
+<pb n="305"/><anchor id="Pg305"/>
+<pb n="306"/><anchor id="Pg306"/>
+<pb n="307"/><anchor id="Pg307"/>
+These are annually sold for the profit of the
+church, and the proceeds amount to a considerable
+sum. Our guide gravely assured us that on the
+first of May, day of the Pardon of St. Herbot, the
+cows "d'elles m�mes" walk three times round the
+church.</p>
+
+<pgIf output="txt">
+  <then><p>[Illustration: 64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]</p></then>
+  <else>
+    <p><figure rend="w100" url="images/image64.jpg">
+    <head>64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.</head>
+    <figDesc></figDesc>
+    </figure></p>
+  </else>
+</pgIf>
+
+<p>We returned late to Carhaix, and left next day
+for Guingamp, passing, about two miles out of the
+town, through the village of St. Catherine on the
+Hierre, where the church has fleur-de-lis� windows,
+like that of Penmarch. We here entered the department
+of the C�tes-du-Nord through Callac, where we
+changed horses; the country was hilly and wooded.
+On the left we saw the spire of the church of Notre
+Dame-de-Gr�ces, where repose the remains of Charles
+of Blois; on the right appeared the cathedral towers
+of Guingamp. At this last place we took the rail
+to Caulnes-Dinan, and on, by diligence, to Dinan,
+whence we proposed returning by St. Malo; but,
+finding the time of the boat's sailing did not suit
+our arrangements, we returned by Paris and Dieppe
+to London.</p>
+<pb n="308"/><anchor id="Pg308"/>
+</div>
+<div rend="page-break-before: right">
+<pb n="309"/><anchor id="Pg309"/>
+<index index="toc" />
+<index index="pdf" />
+<head rend="hsmallcaps">Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany.</head>
+<lg rend="indent">
+<l>1320. Du Guesclin born.</l>
+<l>1338. Marriage of Charles of Blois and Jeanne de Penthi�vre.  Du Guesclin at the tournament.</l>
+<l>1341. Death of John III. Beginning of the War of Succession.</l>
+<l>1342. John de Montfort, prisoner in the Louvre, 1345. Escape to England and death.</l>
+<l>1346. Siege of Hennebont defended by Jeanne de Flandre.</l>
+<l>1347. Charles of Blois taken prisoner at La Roche Derrien.</l>
+<l>  "   War of the two Jeannes.</l>
+<l>1351. Combat of the Thirty.</l>
+<l>1356. Charles of Blois liberated.</l>
+<l>1359. Siege of Dinan.</l>
+<l>1364. Battle of Auray.</l>
+<l>1365. Treaty of Gu�rande.</l>
+<l>1370. Du Guesclin, Constable of France.</l>
+<l>1375. John IV. flees to England.</l>
+<l>1380. He is recalled.</l>
+<l>1387. Death of Du Guesclin.</l>
+<l>1387. Clisson marries his daughter to Jean de Penthi�vre.</l>
+<l>1407. Death of Clisson.</l>
+<l>1420. Seizure of John V. by the Penthi�vres.</l>
+<l>1488. Battle of St. Aubin du Cormier.</l>
+</lg>
+</div>
+<div rend="page-break-before: right">
+<pb n="310"/><anchor id="Pg310"/>
+<index index="toc" />
+<index index="pdf" />
+    <head rend="hsmallcaps">Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany.</head>
+
+    <p>
+    <figure rend="w100" url="images/table.png">
+    <figDesc></figDesc></figure>
+    </p>
+    <pgIf output="txt">
+    <then>
+    <eg>
+1. GEOFFROY II.                        CONSTANCE
+3rd son of Henry II.,--------=--------Heiress of Britanny
+    1175                     |
+                          Arthur,
+                           1196.
+
+CONSTANCE,------------=-----------2. GUY DE THOUARS
+Heiress of            |
+Brittany.           Alix,
+                    1213------=-----Pierre de Dreux.
+                              |
+                       John II., 1286.
+                Beatrix, daughter of Henry III.
+                              |
+                              |
+1. Maria,-------------=------Arthur II., 1305----------------------------------=-----2. Jeanne de Montfort.
+Vicountess            |                                                        |
+de Limoges            |                                                        |
+                      |                                         +--------------+--------+
+          +-----------+----------+                              |                       |
+          |                      |                 Jean Comte de Montfort + 1345.    Beatrix.
+Jean III. (Bon), 1313.   Gui Comte de Penthi�vre.........Jeanne de Flandre........Gui de Laval.
+Isabelle de Valois.              |                              |                       |
+                                 |                              |                Beatrix de Laval
+                          Jeanne la Boiteuse.        Jean IV. (Vaillant), 1366.         |
+                        Charles de Blois + 1364 ....... 1. Mary of England.      Richard de Bretagne.
+                                 |                       2. Joan Holland.........Marguerite d'Orleans.
+          +----------------------+--------------+       3. Joan of Navarre.             |
+          |                      |              |               |                       |
+Jean Comte de Penthi�vre.       Gui.           Henri.           |                       |
+Marguerite de Clisson.     Died in captivity.                   |                       |
+          |                                       +-------------+-----+           Francis II., 1458
+   +------+-------+                               |                   |
+   |      |       |                         John V., 1439     Arthur III., 1457...1. Marguerite de Bretagne.
+Olivier Charles Guillaume ................ Jeanne de France      Constable.       2. Marguerite de Foix.
+                                                  |                                     |
+        +----------------------+------------------+--------+                            |
+Francis I., 1442.         Pierre II.,          Maria.     Gilles.                  Anne, 1488.
+1. Yolande d'Anjou.       1450.                         Francoise de Dinan.......1. Charles VIII.
+2. Isabeau d'Ecosse.     Francoise d'Amboise.                                    2. Louis XIII.
+                                                                                        |
+                                                                                   +----+----+
+                                                                                 Claude.   Ren�e.
+</eg>
+</then>
+</pgIf>
+</div>
+<div rend="page-break-before: right">
+<pb n="311"/><anchor id="Pg311"/>
+<index index="toc" />
+<index index="pdf" />
+<head rend="hsmallcaps">Index.</head>
+<pb n="312"/><anchor id="Pg312"/>
+<lg><lg>
+<l>Abelard, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ancenis, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l>
+<l>Angoul�me, Duke and Duchess, <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>.</l>
+<l>Anne, of Austria, Queen, <ref target="Pg122">122</ref>, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</l>
+<l>Anne de Beaujeu, Regent, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l>
+<l>Anne of Brittany, Queen-Duchess, <ref target="Pg042">42</ref>, <ref target="Pg050">50</ref>, <ref target="Pg062">62</ref>, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>, <ref target="Pg222">222</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l>
+<l>Arr�, mountains, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>, <ref target="Pg136">136</ref>, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l>
+<l>Arthur and Geoffroy Plantagenet, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l>
+<l>Arthur III., Duke of Brittany, Constable of France, <ref target="Pg190">190</ref>.</l>
+<l>Artois, Comte d', <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</l>
+<l>Auray, <ref target="Pg157">157</ref>.</l>
+<l>Auray, battle of, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>.</l>
+<l>Auray, Ste. Anne d', <ref target="Pg158">158</ref>.</l>
+<l>Avranches, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>.</l>
+<l>Audierne, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Baciocchi, Princess, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l>
+<l>Baie des Tr�pass�s, <ref target="Pg274">274</ref>.</l>
+<l>Barb�s, <ref target="Pg028">28</ref>.</l>
+<l>Barkers (aboyeurs), <ref target="Pg214">214</ref>.</l>
+<l>Bas-Foins, <ref target="Pg049">49</ref>.</l>
+<l>Beaumanoir Chapel, <ref target="Pg056">56</ref>.</l>
+<l>Beaumanoir, Jean de, <ref target="Pg052">52</ref>, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref>.</l>
+<l>Beauport, Abbey of, <ref target="Pg076">76</ref>.</l>
+<l>Belle-Isle-en-Mer, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l>
+<l>Belli�re, Ch�teau of, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref>.</l>
+<l>Berri, Duchess, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>.</l>
+<l>Bertheaume, Island, <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>.</l>
+<l>Bigouden, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref>.</l>
+<l>Biniou, <ref target="Pg249">249</ref>.</l>
+<l>Bisson, <ref target="Pg155">155</ref>, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>.</l>
+<l>Blanche of Castille, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>.</l>
+<l>Blue Beard, Breton, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>.</l>
+<l>Boisgelin, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>.</l>
+<l>Bonchamps, <ref target="Pg237">237</ref>.</l>
+<l>Bourg-de-Batz, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l>
+<pb n="313"/><anchor id="Pg313"/>
+<l>Brest, <ref target="Pg118">118</ref>.</l>
+<l>Bretesch, Ch�teau of, <ref target="Pg248">248</ref>.</l>
+<l>Breton bed, <ref target="Pg239">239</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; butter, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; character, <ref target="Pg099">99</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; chestnuts, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; cow and pig, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; distaffs, <ref target="Pg259">259</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; farmhouse, <ref target="Pg086">86</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; knitting, <ref target="Pg074">74</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; soup, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; threshing, <ref target="Pg117">117</ref>;</l>
+<l>&mdash; vehicles, <ref target="Pg037">37</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Cancale, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>.</l>
+<l>Carnac, <ref target="Pg177">177</ref>.</l>
+<l>Cesson, Tour de, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>.</l>
+<l>Carhaix, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l>
+<l>Chalais, Comte de, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>.</l>
+<l>Champ des Martyrs, <ref target="Pg166">166</ref>.</l>
+<l>Champtoceaux, Ch�teau de, <ref target="Pg218">218</ref>.</l>
+<l>Chandos, Sir John, <ref target="Pg016">16</ref>, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>, <ref target="Pg162">162</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ch�teaubriand, <ref target="Pg036">36</ref>, <ref target="Pg041">41</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ch�teaulin, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>.</l>
+<l>Chatelet, J. du, <ref target="Pg302">302</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ch�ne-Ferron, Ch�teau of, <ref target="Pg057">57</ref>.</l>
+<l>Cherbourg, <ref target="Pg001">1</ref>.</l>
+<l>Charles the Bad, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>.</l>
+<l>Charles of Blois, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>.</l>
+<l>Charles V., <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l>
+<l>Charles VI., <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>.</l>
+<l>Charles VII., <ref target="Pg047">47</ref>, <ref target="Pg191">191</ref>.</l>
+<l>Charles VIII., <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l>
+<l>Clisson, Constable, <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>, <ref target="Pg186">186</ref>, <ref target="Pg209">209</ref>.</l>
+<l>Clisson, Marguerite, <ref target="Pg089">89</ref>, <ref target="Pg218">218</ref>.</l>
+<l>Colomb, Michel, <ref target="Pg127">127</ref>, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>.</l>
+<l>Combat des Trente, <ref target="Pg206">206</ref>.</l>
+<l>Combourg, Ch�teau de, <ref target="Pg036">36</ref>.</l>
+<l>Comorre, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l>
+<l>Concarneau, <ref target="Pg142">142</ref>.</l>
+<l>Conquet, Le, <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>.</l>
+<l>Constance of Brittany, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l>
+<l>Cornouaille, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>.</l>
+<l>Costume, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>, <ref target="Pg140">140</ref>, <ref target="Pg234">234</ref>, <ref target="Pg249">249</ref>, <ref target="Pg258">258</ref>, <ref target="Pg283">283</ref>, <ref target="Pg288">288</ref>, <ref target="Pg298">298</ref>.</l>
+<l>Cou�ron, <ref target="Pg034">34</ref>.</l>
+<pb n="314"/><anchor id="Pg314"/>
+<l>Cou�snon, <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</l>
+<l>Courcorro, <ref target="Pg181">181</ref>.</l>
+<l>Coutances, <ref target="Pg019">19</ref>.</l>
+<l>Cr�pes, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>, <ref target="Pg169">169</ref>.</l>
+<l>Croisic, Le, <ref target="Pg232">232</ref>.</l>
+<l>Crosses, <ref target="Pg104">104</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>D'Andelot, Sieur, <ref target="Pg248">248</ref>.</l>
+<l>Dinan, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>, <ref target="Pg050">50</ref>.</l>
+<l>Dinan, Fran�oise de, <hi rend="italic">see</hi> Fran�oise.</l>
+<l>Dinan, Roland de, <ref target="Pg053">53</ref>.</l>
+<l>Dinard, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>.</l>
+<l>Dogs of St. Malo, <ref target="Pg042">42</ref>.</l>
+<l>Dol, <ref target="Pg030">30</ref>.</l>
+<l>Douarnenez, <ref target="Pg276">276</ref>, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>.</l>
+<l>Dubourg, <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>.</l>
+<l>Du Guesclin, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>, <ref target="Pg045">45</ref>, <ref target="Pg051">51</ref>, <ref target="Pg053">53</ref>, <ref target="Pg074">74</ref>, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>, <ref target="Pg162">162</ref>, <ref target="Pg209">209</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Elven, Ch�teau of, <ref target="Pg199">199</ref>.</l>
+<l>Edward III., <ref target="Pg015">15</ref>, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l>
+<l>Edward IV., <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l>
+<l>Escoublac, <ref target="Pg232">232</ref>.</l>
+<l>Estouteville, Sieur d', <ref target="Pg013">13</ref>, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>.</l>
+<l>Epinglettes, <ref target="Pg160">160</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ermine, Order of, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Filet, saint, <ref target="Pg264">264</ref>.</l>
+<l>Faou�t, Le, <ref target="Pg287">287</ref>.</l>
+<l>Folgo�t, Le, <ref target="Pg120">120</ref>.</l>
+<l>Fouquet, N., <ref target="Pg256">256</ref>.</l>
+<l>Francis I., Duke of Brittany, <ref target="Pg047">47</ref>, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref> <hi rend="italic">note</hi>, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>.</l>
+<l>Francis II., Duke of Brittany, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l>
+<l>Fran�oise de Dinan, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>, <ref target="Pg215">215</ref>.</l>
+<l>Fontenelle le Ligueur, <ref target="Pg267">267</ref>.</l>
+<l>Fr�rie Blanche, <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</l>
+<l>Frobisher, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Gavr' Inis, <ref target="Pg174">174</ref>.</l>
+<l>Gesril du Papeu, <ref target="Pg166">166</ref>, <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>.</l>
+<l>Gilles de Bretagne, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>.</l>
+<l>Go�mon (wrack), <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>.</l>
+<l>Grallo, King, <ref target="Pg139">139</ref>, <ref target="Pg275">275</ref>.</l>
+<l>Gu�rande, <ref target="Pg245">245</ref>.</l>
+<l>Guimiliau, <ref target="Pg115">115</ref>.</l>
+<l>Granville, <ref target="Pg021">21</ref>.</l>
+<l>Guingamp, <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</l>
+<pb n="315"/><anchor id="Pg315"/>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>H�dic, Isle, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>.</l>
+<l>Haye du Puits, La, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>.</l>
+<l>Harcourt, G. d', <ref target="Pg015">15</ref>.</l>
+<l>Hennebont, <ref target="Pg156">156</ref>.</l>
+<l>Henry II., <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>.</l>
+<l>Henry IV., <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>, <ref target="Pg191">191</ref>.</l>
+<l>Henry V., <ref target="Pg013">13</ref>, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>, <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l>
+<l>Henry VI., <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l>
+<l>Henry VII., <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l>
+<l>Henry VIII., <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>.</l>
+<l>Henri IV., <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>, <ref target="Pg225">225</ref>.</l>
+<l>Herc�, <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>.</l>
+<l>Hoche, Gen., <ref target="Pg166">166</ref>.</l>
+<l>Hunaudaye, Ch�teau de la, <ref target="Pg062">62</ref>.</l>
+<l>Huelgoat, <ref target="Pg300">300</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Indian corn, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>.</l>
+<l>Inclined axis of church, <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>.</l>
+<l>Is, City of, <ref target="Pg274">274</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ingrandes, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>James II., <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>, <ref target="Pg205">205</ref>.</l>
+<l>Jean de Montfort, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>.</l>
+<l>Jeanne d'Arc, <ref target="Pg190">190</ref>.</l>
+<l>Jeanne de Flandre (Montfort), <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>, <ref target="Pg156">156</ref>.</l>
+<l>Jeanne de France, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>, <ref target="Pg219">219</ref>.</l>
+<l>Jeanne de Penthi�vre, <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>.</l>
+<l>Jeanne (Joan) of Navarre, <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg134">134</ref>, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>, <ref target="Pg246">246</ref>.</l>
+<l>John I. (Roux), <ref target="Pg189">189</ref>, <ref target="Pg194">194</ref>.</l>
+<l>John II., <ref target="Pg204">204</ref>.</l>
+<l>John III. (Bon), <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg160">160</ref>, <ref target="Pg205">205</ref>.</l>
+<l>John IV. (Victorieux), <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref>, <ref target="Pg160">160</ref>, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>, <ref target="Pg246">246</ref>.</l>
+<l>John V., <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>, <ref target="Pg121">121</ref>, <ref target="Pg185">185</ref>.</l>
+<l>Josselin, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg211">211</ref>.</l>
+<l>Jugon, <ref target="Pg061">61</ref>, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Kergrist, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>.</l>
+<l>Kermartin, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>.</l>
+<l>Kermario, <ref target="Pg177">177</ref>.</l>
+<l>Kersanton stone, <ref target="Pg122">122</ref>, <ref target="Pg135">135</ref>.</l>
+<l>Kerserho, <ref target="Pg181">181</ref>.</l>
+<l>Kerscaven, <ref target="Pg269">269</ref>.</l>
+<l>Knights Templars, <ref target="Pg069">69</ref>.</l>
+<l>Knollys, Sir R., <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>.</l>
+<l>Korn-er-Ho�t, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l>
+<pb n="316"/><anchor id="Pg316"/>
+<l>La For�t, Bay, <ref target="Pg143">143</ref>.</l>
+<l>La Garaye, Ch�teau of, <ref target="Pg057">57</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lamballe, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lanleff, <ref target="Pg068">68</ref>.</l>
+<l>Langoat, <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>.</l>
+<l>Langoustes, <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>, <ref target="Pg147">147</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lannion, <ref target="Pg094">94</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lanvaux, Lande de, <ref target="Pg187">187</ref>.</l>
+<l>Larochejaquelin, <ref target="Pg022">22</ref>.</l>
+<l>La Tour d'Auvergne, <ref target="Pg297">297</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lehon Abbey, <ref target="Pg056">56</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lavandi�res de la Nuit, <ref target="Pg290">290</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lesage, <ref target="Pg188">188</ref>.</l>
+<l>L�onnais, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>.</l>
+<l>L�on, Viscounts, <ref target="Pg110">110</ref>.</l>
+<l>L�zardrieux, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lessay, <ref target="Pg017">17</ref>.</l>
+<l>Locmariaker, <ref target="Pg170">170</ref>.</l>
+<l>Loctudy, <ref target="Pg261">261</ref>.</l>
+<l>Lorient, <ref target="Pg155">155</ref>.</l>
+<l>Louis XI., <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>, <ref target="Pg201">201</ref>.</l>
+<l>Louis XII., <ref target="Pg032">32</ref>, <ref target="Pg223">223</ref>.</l>
+<l>Louis XIV., <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>, <ref target="Pg189">189</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Manny, Sir W., <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>, <ref target="Pg157">157</ref>.</l>
+<l>Manoir, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</l>
+<l>Martinvast, <ref target="Pg012">12</ref>.</l>
+<l>Matilda, Empress, <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>.</l>
+<l>Mary, daughter of Edward III., <ref target="Pg106">106</ref>.</l>
+<l>Merc&oelig;ur, Duke de, <ref target="Pg225">225</ref>.</l>
+<l>Menhir, <ref target="Pg035">35</ref>.</l>
+<l>Mingant Rock, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>.</l>
+<l>Minihy (sanctuaries), <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>.</l>
+<l>Mivoie, Ch�ne de, <ref target="Pg207">207</ref>.</l>
+<l>Montafilant, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg046">46</ref>.</l>
+<l>Montfort, <ref target="Pg215">215</ref>.</l>
+<l>Mont St. Michel, <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>.</l>
+<l>Motto of Dukes of Brittany, <ref target="Pg126">126</ref>, <ref target="Pg161">161</ref>.</l>
+<l>Morbihan Sea, <ref target="Pg174">174</ref>.</l>
+<l>Morlaix, <ref target="Pg097">97</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Nacqueville, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg006">6</ref>.</l>
+<l>Nantes, <ref target="Pg221">221</ref>.</l>
+<l>Napoleon I., <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>, <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>.</l>
+<l>Notre Dame-de-Comfort, church, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>.</l>
+<l>Notre Dame-du-Roncier, <ref target="Pg213">213</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Octeville, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ou�ssant Isle, <ref target="Pg128">128</ref>, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<pb n="317"/><anchor id="Pg317"/>
+<l>Paimb&oelig;uf, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l>
+<l>Paimpol, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>.</l>
+<l>Palais, Le, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>.</l>
+<l>Penmarch, <ref target="Pg263">263</ref>.</l>
+<l>Penmarch, Torche de, <ref target="Pg262">262</ref>.</l>
+<l>Penthi�vre, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>, <ref target="Pg210">210</ref>, <ref target="Pg225">225</ref>.</l>
+<l>P�riers, <ref target="Pg018">18</ref>.</l>
+<l>Perros Guirec, <ref target="Pg092">92</ref>.</l>
+<l>Peter, Duke, <ref target="Pg072">72</ref>.</l>
+<l>Philip Augustus, <ref target="Pg028">28</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pierre de Dreux, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pierres de Croix, <ref target="Pg286">286</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pleudaniel, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</l>
+<l>Plo�rmel, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>.</l>
+<l>Plouaret, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>.</l>
+<l>Plougastel, <ref target="Pg133">133</ref>.</l>
+<l>Plouharnel, <ref target="Pg180">180</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ploumanach, <ref target="Pg092">92</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pointe du Raz, <ref target="Pg271">271</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pole, W. de la, Earl of Suffolk, <ref target="Pg013">13</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pontacallec, Marquis de, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>, <ref target="Pg294">294</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pontaven, <ref target="Pg150">150</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pontcroix, <ref target="Pg276">276</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pont l'Abb�, <ref target="Pg257">257</ref>.</l>
+<l>Pontorson, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>.</l>
+<l>Port Navalo, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l>
+<l>Potatoes, <ref target="Pg251">251</ref>.</l>
+<l>Poulignan, <ref target="Pg233">233</ref>.</l>
+<l>Porzmoguer, <ref target="Pg130">130</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Querqueville, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>.</l>
+<l>Quiberon, <ref target="Pg165">165</ref>.</l>
+<l>Quimper, <ref target="Pg138">138</ref>.</l>
+<l>Quimperl�, <ref target="Pg151">151</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Rance River, <ref target="Pg043">43</ref>.</l>
+<l>Richelieu, Cardinal, <ref target="Pg096">96</ref>, <ref target="Pg119">119</ref>.</l>
+<l>Richelieu, Duke, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rennes, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>.</l>
+<l>Retz, Cardinal, <ref target="Pg226">226</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rieux, Marshal, <ref target="Pg202">202</ref>.</l>
+<l>River scenery, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>, <ref target="Pg216">216</ref>, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l>
+<l>Roads, <ref target="Pg084">84</ref>, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>.</l>
+<l>Roche Bernard, La, <ref target="Pg247">247</ref>.</l>
+<l>Roche Derrien, La, <ref target="Pg082">82</ref>.</l>
+<l>Roche Jagu, La, <ref target="Pg081">81</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rochefort, Chancellor, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rocking stones, <ref target="Pg093">93</ref>, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>, <ref target="Pg300">300</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rohan family, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>, <ref target="Pg099">99</ref>, <ref target="Pg111">111</ref>, <ref target="Pg210">210</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rosaries, <ref target="Pg282">282</ref>.</l>
+<pb n="318"/><anchor id="Pg318"/>
+<l>Roscoff, <ref target="Pg111">111</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rosgrand, <ref target="Pg153">153</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rosporden, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</l>
+<l>Rust�phan, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Sacring bells, <ref target="Pg279">279</ref>.</l>
+<l>Saire, Monk of, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ste. Anne la Palue, <ref target="Pg282">282</ref>.</l>
+<l>St. Armal, <ref target="Pg204">204</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Aubin du Cormier, <ref target="Pg229">229</ref>.</l>
+<l>Ste. Barbe, <ref target="Pg287">287</ref>.</l>
+<l>St. Brieuc, <ref target="Pg071">71</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Corentin, <ref target="Pg137">137</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Corn�ly, <ref target="Pg178">178</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Fiacre, <ref target="Pg020">20</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash;  "  church, <ref target="Pg293">293</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Florent, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; G�n�vroc, <ref target="Pg105">105</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Germain, <ref target="Pg005">5</ref>, <ref target="Pg034">34</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Gildas, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Guenol�, <ref target="Pg263">263</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Herbot, <ref target="Pg303">303</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Ives, <ref target="Pg085">85</ref>, <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; L�onard, <ref target="Pg075">75</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Malo, <ref target="Pg039">39</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Mathieu, <ref target="Pg129">129</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Michael, Order of, <ref target="Pg026">26</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Nazaire, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Pair, <ref target="Pg023">23</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Pol de L�on, <ref target="Pg103">103</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Samson, <ref target="Pg032">32</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Th�gonnec, <ref target="Pg114">114</ref>, <ref target="Pg117">117</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Urlose, <ref target="Pg152">152</ref>.</l>
+<l>&mdash; Vincente Ferrar, <ref target="Pg184">184</ref>.</l>
+<l>Salt, <ref target="Pg233">233</ref>.</l>
+<l>Sardine fishery, <ref target="Pg144">144</ref>.</l>
+<l>Sarzeau, <ref target="Pg192">192</ref>.</l>
+<l>Sca�r, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</l>
+<l>Scales, Lord, <ref target="Pg021">21</ref>.</l>
+<l>Sein, Isle, <ref target="Pg272">272</ref>.</l>
+<pb n="319"/><anchor id="Pg319"/>
+<l>Sevign�, Madame de, <ref target="Pg203">203</ref>.</l>
+<l>Skull-boxes, <ref target="Pg091">91</ref>.</l>
+<l>S&oelig;urs de la Mis�ricorde, <ref target="Pg016">16</ref>.</l>
+<l>S&oelig;urs de le Providence, <ref target="Pg011">11</ref>.</l>
+<l>Sombreuil, Comte de, <ref target="Pg164">164</ref>, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>, <ref target="Pg184">184</ref>.</l>
+<l>Stuart, Charles, <ref target="Pg113">113</ref>, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>.</l>
+<l>Stuart, Mary, <ref target="Pg098">98</ref>, <ref target="Pg112">112</ref>.</l>
+<l>Sucinio, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg189">189</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Teigneuse, Isle, <ref target="Pg250">250</ref>.</l>
+<l>Thomas � Becket, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>.</l>
+<l>Tocqueville, A. de, <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>.</l>
+<l>Tombeleine, Isle, <ref target="Pg028">28</ref>.</l>
+<l>Touqu�dec, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg095">95</ref>.</l>
+<l>Tourlaville, Ch�teau, <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>.</l>
+<l>Tr�guier, <ref target="Pg088">88</ref>.</l>
+<l>Tr�gunc, <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>.</l>
+<l>Trieux River, <ref target="Pg080">80</ref>.</l>
+<l>Trinit�, La, <ref target="Pg130">130</ref>.</l>
+<l>Tumiac, Butte de, <ref target="Pg199">199</ref>.</l>
+<l>Typhaine, the Lady, <ref target="Pg024">24</ref>, <ref target="Pg044">44</ref>, <ref target="Pg054">54</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Valognes, <ref target="Pg014">14</ref>.</l>
+<l>Vannes, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>.</l>
+<l>Varades, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l>
+<l>Vendean army, <ref target="Pg217">217</ref>.</l>
+<l>Veneti, <ref target="Pg183">183</ref>.</l>
+<l>Venus' ear, <ref target="Pg002">2</ref>.</l>
+<l>Victoria, Queen, <ref target="Pg001">1</ref>, <ref target="Pg003">3</ref>, <ref target="Pg014">14</ref>.</l>
+</lg><lg>
+<l>Walsh, <ref target="Pg230">230</ref>.</l>
+<l>War of the two Jeannes, <ref target="Pg083">83</ref>.</l>
+<l>War of Succession, <ref target="Pg067">67</ref> <hi rend="italic">note</hi>.</l>
+<l>Washing, <ref target="Pg018">18</ref>.</l>
+<l>Wells, holy, <ref target="Pg125">125</ref>, <ref target="Pg285">285</ref>.</l>
+<l>Welsh Baptists, <ref target="Pg100">100</ref>.</l>
+<l>William the Conqueror, <ref target="Pg004">4</ref>.</l>
+</lg></lg>
+</div>
+<pb n="320"/><anchor id="Pg320"/>
+
+
+  </body>
+
+  <back>
+
+<div rend="page-break-before: right">
+<index index="toc" />
+<index index="pdf" />
+<head>Transcribers' Notes</head>
+<p>The following substitutions were applied to the text by
+Project Gutenberg proofers and transcribers&mdash;</p>
+<lg><l>On page <ref target="Pg007">7</ref>: "recals" &mdash;&gt; "recalls"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg025">25</ref>: "John IV Duke of Britanny" &mdash;&gt; "Brittany"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg093">93</ref>: "slighest" &mdash;&gt; "slightest"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg104">104</ref>: "calvarys" &mdash;&gt; "calvaries"</l>
+<l>In Ill. 22: "Creisker" &mdash;&gt; "Creizker"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg144">144</ref>: "mackarel" &mdash;&gt; "mackerel"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg149">149</ref>: "out out" &mdash;&gt; "out"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg167">167</ref>: twice "d'Angoulme" &mdash;&gt; "d'Angoul�me"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg178">178</ref>: "Erdevan" &mdash;&gt; "Erdeven"</l>
+<l>On pages <ref target="Pg196">196</ref>/<ref target="Pg197">197</ref>: several extra double quotes removed</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg212">212</ref>: "ballustrades" &mdash;&gt; "balustrades"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg270">270</ref>: "promonotory" &mdash;&gt; "promontory"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg272">272</ref>: "corronation" &mdash;&gt; "coronation"</l>
+<l>On page <ref target="Pg303">303</ref>: "in in" &mdash;&gt; "in"</l></lg>
+</div>
+    <div rend="page-break-before: right">
+      <divGen type="pgfooter" />
+    </div>
+
+  </back>
+</text>
+</TEI.2>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Brittany & Its Byways by Fanny Bury
+Palliser
+
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no
+restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under
+the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or
+online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+
+Title: Brittany & Its Byways
+
+Author: Fanny Bury Palliser
+
+Release Date: November 9, 2007 [Ebook #22700]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: US-ASCII
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS***
+
+
+
+
+
+Brittany & Its Byways
+
+
+by Fanny Bury Palliser
+
+
+
+
+Edition 02 , (November 9, 2007)
+
+
+
+
+
+                          BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS
+
+                             SOME ACCOUNT OF
+                  ITS INHABITANTS AND ITS ANTIQUITIES;
+                   DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY.
+
+                          BY MRS. BURY PALLISER
+
+[Illustration: Vignette: St. Michael's Mount]
+
+                       WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                            ------------------
+
+                                  London
+
+                                   1869
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+Contents.
+List of Illustrations.
+Britanny and Its Byways.
+Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany.
+Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany.
+Index.
+Transcribers' Notes
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                              --------------
+
+CHERBOURG--Mont du Roule--Visit of Queen Victoria--Harbour,
+1--Breakwater--Dock-Yard, 2--Chantereyne--Hopital de la Marine,
+3--Castle--Statue of Napoleon I.--Library--Church of La Trinite,
+4--Environs--Octeville, 5--Lace-school of the Soeurs de la Providence, 11.
+
+QUERQUEVILLE--Church of St. Germain, 5--Chateau of the Comte de Tocqueville,
+6.
+
+TOURLAVILLE--Chateau, 7--Crepes, 11.
+
+MARTINVAST--Chateau, 12.
+
+BRICQUEBEC--Castle--History, 12--Valognes, 14.
+
+ST. SAUVEUR-le-Vicomte--Demesne--History, 15--Castle--Convent--Abbey, 16.
+
+PERIERS, 17--La Haye-du-Puits, 17--Abbey of Lessay--Mode of
+Washing--Inn-signs, 18--Church, 19.
+
+COUTANCES--Cathedral--Churches, 19--Fete of St. Fiacre, 20.
+
+GRANVILLE--Situation--History--Church, 21--View from the
+"Roc"--Bathing-machines--Defeat of the Vendean army--Death of La
+Rochejacquelin, 22--Costume of the Women--Environs--St. Pair, 23.
+
+AVRANCHES--Extensive View--Scene of Absolution of Henry II.--Cemetery, 24.
+
+PONTORSON--Story of the Lady Typhaine, 24--Government by Du Guesclin--Mont
+St. Michel, 25--Chapel of St. Aubert--Visits of English kings--Pilgrimages of
+Kings of France, 26--Convent of "La Merveille," 27--Isle of La
+Tombeleine--Prison, 28--The Iron Cage, 29.
+
+DOL-DE-BRETAGNE--Street Architecture, 30--Cathedral, 31--Tomb of Bishop
+James--Chapel of St. Samson, 32--Monks, 33--Dyke, 34--Menhir, 35--Chateau of
+Combourg, 36--Chateaubriand, 37.
+
+CANCALE--Oysters, 37--Wretched public vehicles, 38--Bay, 39.
+
+ST. MALO--Situation, 39--Sea-wall, 40--Tomb of Chateaubriand--Memorials of
+him, 41--Watch-dogs, 42--Castle--History, 43--DINARD, 44.
+
+DINAN--Ascent of the Rance--Statue of Du Guesclin, 44--Siege of 1359--Duel of
+Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorbery, 45--Castle of Montfilant--Story of
+Gilles de Bretagne, 46--Lunatic Asylum--Castle of Dinan, 50--Church of St.
+Sauveur, 51--Museum, 52--Environs--Chateau of La Belliere, 54--Chateau of La
+Garaye--Count Claude de la Garaye and his Wife, 57--Jugon, 61--Castle of La
+Hunaudaye, 62--Legend of La Hunaudaye, 63--Forest of La Hunaudaye--The Chouan
+War, 66.
+
+LAMBALLE--Jeanne la Boiteuse--War of Succession, 67--Temple of Lanleff,
+68--Tradition of the blood-spots, 70.
+
+ST. BRIEUC--Palais de Justice--Tour de Cesson, 71--Church of Notre
+Dame--Review of his army by James II. of England, 72.
+
+GUINGAMP--Situation--Fishing in the Trieux--Sanctuary of Notre Dame du Bon
+Secours--"Frerie blanche," 72--Fountain of Duke Peter--Women of
+Guingamp--Knitting and spinning--Ransom for Du Guesclin, 74--Chapel of St.
+Leonard patron saint of prisoners--Curious charms against fever, 75.
+
+PAIMPOL--Chateau de Boisgelin, 75--Abbey of Beauport, 76--Situation of
+Paimpol--Suspension-bridge of Lezardrieux, 80--Chateau of La Roche Jagu, 81.
+
+PONTRIEUX--Castle of La Roche Derrien, 82--"War of the two Jeannes"--Church
+of Langoat--Monument of Ste. Pompee, 83--Burial customs--Excellence of roads
+in Brittany, 84.
+
+KERMARTIN--St. Ives, 84--Inscription at his birthplace--Interior of a Breton
+dwelling, 86--Church of Minihy-Treguier--Will of St. Ives, 87.
+
+TREGUIER--Cathedral--Burial-place of St. Ives, 88--Constable Clisson,
+89--Cemetery, 90--Skull-boxes, 91.
+
+LANNION--Difficulty of the road, 91--Perros Guirec--Ploumanach--Roche Pendue,
+92--Situation of Lannion--Fishery--Sea-weed gathering, 94--Castle of
+Touquedec, 95--Chateau of Kergrist, 96.
+
+MORLAIX--Situation--Timbered houses, 97--History, 98--Breton characteristics,
+99--Protestant Missions, 100--"Fontaine des Anglais," 102--River Scenery,
+103.
+
+ST. POL DE LEON, 103--Religious Monuments--Character of the Leonnais,
+104--Church of Notre Dame de Creizker--Legend of St. Genevroc,
+105--Cathedral, 106--St. Pol and the Dragon, 109--Ursuline Convent--"Droit de
+Motte," 110.
+
+ROSCOFF--Contraband trade with England--Vegetable produce, 111--Historic
+importance, 112--Church--Island of Batz--Enormous old fig-tree, 113.
+
+ST. THEGONNEC STATION--Cabaret--Church, 114--Guimiliau Church--Sculptures,
+115--Calvary, 116--Buckwheat, 117--Castle and Church of La Roche Maurice,
+118.
+
+BREST--Situation, 118--Harbour, 119--Church of the Folgoet--Legend,
+120--Kersanton stone, 122--Sculptures in Kersanton stone, 123--The Fool's
+Well, 124--Exterior of Church, 125--Churchyard, 127--Monthly Fair of
+Brest--Peasants' Costumes, 133.
+
+FINISTERE--Abbey of St. Mathieu, 129--Sea-fights, 130--Pont Launay and
+Chateaulin, 134.
+
+QUIMPER, 135--Legend of St. Corentin, 137--Cathedral, 139--National costume,
+140.
+
+CONCARNEAU, 142--Sardine Fishery, 143--Aquarium, 147--Dolmen and
+Rocking-stone of Tregunc--Chateau of Rustephan, 149--Valley of Pontaven,
+150.
+
+QUIMPERLE--Fishing, 151--Buildings--Tomb of St. Gurloes, 152--Tomb of John de
+Montfort--Ruins of St. Columban, 153--Dirtiness of the Bretons--Animals and
+Farm produce--Butter Indulgence, 154.
+
+LORIENT--Bisson and the Pirates, 155.
+
+HENNEBONT--Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, 156--Church of Notre
+Dame-de-Paradis, 157.
+
+STE. ANNE D'AURAY, 158--Scala Sancta--Fete, 159--Chartreuse, 160--Battle,
+161--Deaf and Dumb School, 164--Massacre of Quiberon, 165--Champ des Martyrs,
+168--Celtic Remains, 169.
+
+LOCMARIAKER--Tumulus--Celtic and other Remains, 170--Tumulus of Gavr' Inis,
+175.
+
+CARNAC--Celtic Remains--Menhirs of Kermario, 177--Legend of St. Cornely,
+178--Jade Celts, &c., at Plouharnel, 180--Dolmen of Concorro, 181.
+
+VANNES--History--Promenade, 183--Cathedral, 184--Chateau Gaillau--Tour du
+Connetable, 185--Model Village of Korner-hoet, 187--Peninsula of Rhuys,
+188--Fortress of Sucinio, 189--Abbey of St. Gildas, 192--Abelard and the
+Breton Monks, 193--The Breton "Blue Beard," 194--Butte d'Arzon--Castle of
+Elven, 199--Growth of Chestnuts, 203.
+
+PLOERMEL, 203--Church, 204--Tombs, 205--Column of the Thirty, 206--Battle of
+the Thirty, 207--Chateau of Josselin, 209--Church of Josselin, 213.
+
+MONTFORT-SUR-MER--Forest of Paimpont--Fairy tales, 215.
+
+RENNES, ancient capital of Brittany--Entry of Henry IV.--Scenery of the
+Loire, 216--Castle of Champtoceaux, 218.
+
+NANTES--Cathedral, 221--Tombs, 222--Castle--Anne of Brittany, 223--Promenades
+and Boulevards--Museum, 227--Jardin des Plantes--Descent of the Loire--The
+Noyades, 228.
+
+ST. NAZAIRE--Historical associations, 230--Le Croisic, 232--Salt-pans,
+233--Costume of the Paludiers, 234--Saulniers--Chouan: origin of the name and
+of the War, 241--Church of Batz, 243--Situation of Le Croisic, 244--Chapel of
+St. Goustan, 245.
+
+GUERANDE--Church of St Aubin--Chapel of Notre Dame Blanche, 246--La Roche
+Bernard, 247--Wedding Festivities, 248--National Music--Female Costume--Fete
+de la Vierge and of the Emperor, 249--Scenery of the River Loch, 250.
+
+BELLE ISLE--Le Palais--M. Trochu's Model Farm, 251--Breton fatalism,
+252--Grotte du Port Coton, 255--Historical associations of Belle Isle,
+256--Fishery, 257.
+
+PONT L'ABBE, 257--Costumes, 258--Church, 259.
+
+LOCTUDY--Romanesque Church, 261.
+
+TORCHE DE PENMARCH, 262--Church of St. Guenole, 263--"Le filet saint"--Ruins
+of the old Town, 264--Fontenelle the Leaguer, 267--Church of St. Nonna,
+268--Menhirs at Kerscaven, 269.
+
+AUDIERNE--Lighthouse--Bathing-machines, 269--Town, 270.
+
+POINTE DU RAZ--Popular superstitions--Church of St. Colledoc, 271--"Enfer de
+Plogoff"--Island of Sein--Druidesses, 272--Dangerous passage, 273--Baie des
+Trepasses--Submerged city of Is, 274--Legend of King Gradlon and his
+daughter Dahut, 275.
+
+DOUARNENEZ--Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, 276--Chapel of Notre Dame de
+Comfort--Wheel of Sacring-Bells--Town of Douarnenez, 279--Pardon of Ste.
+Anne-de-la-Palue, 280--Costume, 281--Church of Ste. Anne--Procession,
+282--Holy Well of Ste. Anne, 285.
+
+SCAER--Old Customs and Superstitions, 285--Wrestling--"Pierres de Croix,"
+286.
+
+LE FAOUET--Chapel of St. Barbe, 287--Wedding ceremonies and amusements,
+288--Fishing, 289--Old Breton superstitious still prevalent--Lavandieres de
+la Nuit, 290--Church of St. Fiacre--Elaborately carved Rood-screen,
+293--Painted glass--Ruined Castle of Poncallec--Plot of Cellamare,
+294--Montagnes Noires, 296.
+
+CARHAIX--Situation, 297--Statue of La Tour d'Auvergne, 298--Fair and
+Market--Church of St. Tremeur--Skull-boxes, 299.
+
+HUELGOAT, 300--Lead-mines, 301--Cascade of St. Herbot--Chapel of St. Herbot,
+303--His tomb, 304--Patron of cattle--Offerings of horsehair and cows' tails,
+304--Homeward journey, 307.
+
+USEFUL DATES in the History of Brittany           309
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE of the Dukes of Brittany      310
+
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+  VIGNETTE--St. Michael's Mount, Title-page.
+  1. Querqueville Church, 6
+  2. Plan of Querqueville Church, 6
+  3. Chateau of Tourlaville, 9
+  4. Castle of Bricquebec, 13
+  5. Badge of the Soeurs de la Misericorde, 17
+  6. Coutances Cathedral, 20
+  7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, 31
+  8. Front of the Tomb, 32
+  9. Menhir, near Dol, 35
+  10. Chateau of Combourg, 37
+  11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, 38
+  12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand's Tomb, 40
+  13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, 52
+  14. Chateau of La Belliere, 54
+  15. Chimney, Chateau of La Belliere, 56
+  16. Chateau of La Garaye, 60
+  17. Section of Lanleff Church, 69
+  18. Plan of Lanleff Church, 70
+  19. Fountain of Duke Peter, 73
+  20. Abbey of Beauport, 77
+  21. Skull-box, 91
+  22. The Creizker, 107
+  23. Calvary, Guimiliau, 116
+  24. The Fool's Well, Folgoet, 124
+  25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, 131
+  26. Peasant Girl of Ouessant, 133
+  27. Peasant Girl, Chateaulin, 135
+  28. Begger, Quimper, 141
+  29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, 143
+  30. Dolmen, Tregunc, 146
+  31. Rocking-Stone, Tregunc, 148
+  32. Chateau of Rustephan, 150
+  33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d'Auray, 159
+  34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, 169
+  35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, 171
+  36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, 173
+  37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr' Inis, 175
+  38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr' Inis, 176
+  40. Dolmen of Corcorro, 182
+  41. Castle of Elven, 200
+  42. Column of the Thirty, 206
+  43. Chateau of Josselin, 212
+  44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, 235
+  45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, 237
+  46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, 239
+  47. La Roche Bernard, 247
+  48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, 253
+  49. Device of Fouquet, 257
+  50. Peasant Girl, Pont l'Abbe, 258
+  51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, 260
+  52. Torche of Penmarch, 262
+  53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenole, Penmarch, 264
+  54. Church of Guenole, Penmarch, 265
+  55. Fleur-de-lise Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, 269
+  56. Pointe du Raz, 270
+  57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, 277
+  58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, 279
+  59. Costume of a Finistere Bride, 281
+  60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, 284
+  61. Cross Stones, 286
+  62. Rood-screen or Jube, St. Fiacre, 291
+  63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 304
+  64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 305
+
+
+
+
+
+BRITANNY AND ITS BYWAYS.
+
+
+A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole to Cherbourg. It was dusk
+when we entered the harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing its
+beauty until the following morning, when we ascended a height behind the
+town, called the Mont du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by
+carriage, the Emperor having ordered a road to be made up to the fort
+which crowns the heights, on the occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in
+1858, of her Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were immediately set to
+work, and, in a few days, an easy carriage-road was finished, up which the
+Emperor drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace. The view from the fort is
+lovely, commanding the whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin,
+from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to Barfleur. The water of the
+harbour, owing to its great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we
+quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in likening to that of the Bay
+of Naples. Across its entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of
+the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet of our yacht squadron,
+which the day before had run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We took a
+boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded at each end by a fort, with
+another in the centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy weather
+the sea washes over the breakwater, and sometimes for days prevents all
+communication between the forts, and the supplies consequently are
+stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells of the Venus' ear,
+which inhabits the rocks of the breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the
+fish-market exposed for sale, and, on expressing some curiosity as to how
+they were eaten, the landlord had a dish prepared for us. These fish
+resemble the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require a great
+deal of beating with a wooden mallet to make them tender enough to eat.
+They are called "ormer," or "gofish." The table d'hote was very
+plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout Normandy and
+Brittany, cider, the customary beverage of the country, was always placed
+upon the table. It varies very much in quality in different districts;
+that of Bayeux is most esteemed.
+
+The next morning we set out for the dockyard. To obtain admission, it
+first requires a letter from the English Consul, who lives in a charming
+spot overlooking the sea, at the foot of the Montagne du Roule. Furnished
+with this, we repaired to the Prefet Maritime, who gave us an order to be
+presented at the dockyard gate, where it was countersigned, and a guide
+appointed to show us over the establishment. We made the tour round all
+the basins and workshops, and saw the canot imperial used by the Emperor
+on the visit of our Queen,--a most elegant boat, beautifully carved with
+marine subjects. The model of a Roman trireme, or galley, is in one of the
+basins, and in the little museum, or Salle des Modeles, are the two
+flagstones that covered the grave of Napoleon, and were deposited here by
+the Prince de Joinville, when he returned with the Emperor's remains from
+St. Helena. The dockyard partly stands on a spot called Chantereyne. The
+Empress Matilda, fleeing from Stephen, was overtaken by a tempest when
+making for Cherbourg, and vowed, if her life were spared, to build a
+church. The ship was in jeopardy, but the pilot cheered her spirits, and,
+when gaining the port, exclaimed, "Chantes Reine! we are safe in harbour."
+The place where she landed has always retained the name; and here the
+Empress, in fulfilment of her vow, founded an abbey, which was destroyed
+in the Revolution. The habitations of the nuns is the present provisional
+Hopital de la Marine; a new one, containing above a thousand beds, being
+in course of construction, and a modern church, called Eglise du Voeu, has
+been erected in another part of the town in place of that of the Empress
+Matilda.
+
+Henry II. held his court in the castle with his empress-mother in great
+splendour; it had formerly been tenanted by Duke William of Normandy
+before his invasion of England, and, within its enclosure, he built a
+church also, in consequence of a vow made during a serious illness. There
+are few objects of interest in the town of Cherbourg. The women all wear
+the large Normandy cap. In the Place d'Armes is a bronze equestrian statue
+of the Emperor Napoleon I., and on the pedestal is inscribed "J'avois
+resolu de renouveler a Cherbourg les merveilles de l'Egypte."  In the
+Library is a curiously sculptured chimney-piece of the fifteenth century,
+coloured and gilt, removed from a room of the abbey. The principal church,
+La Trinite, is a strange jumble of architecture. There is some beautiful
+tracery in the windows, and a fine boss (clef pendante) in the south
+porch, now restored. On a board in the church is an inscription, setting
+forth it was built in consequence of a "voeu solennel des habitans de
+Cherbourg en 1450 de la delivrance de la domination etrangere"--that is,
+from the English, whose defeat the same year at Formigny, by the Constable
+de Richemont, expelled them for ever from Normandy.
+
+There is much to see in the environs of Cherbourg, which makes it a good
+central point for excursions. We drove by the fort of Octeville, where a
+magnificent panoramic view is obtained, equalling in extent that from the
+Mont du Roule. A fisherman, who was standing by, told us the names of the
+numerous forts that bristle in every direction, and related to us the
+legend of the monk of Saire, who, having received the rent due to his
+father for some land, appropriated the money to his own use, and, on the
+tenant declaring he had paid the sum, adjured the evil one to carry him
+off, if he had ever received the money. The words were no sooner uttered
+than there came a flash of lightning, and the monk vanished: but he still
+appears in the roads of Cherbourg floating on the sea; when he sees a
+sailor, he cries "Save me, save me! I am about to sink!" but the hapless
+being who approaches to assist him is immediately dragged into the water,
+a peal of infernal laughter is heard, and the luckless mariner disappears
+for ever. We asked our guide if he believed in the phantom monk, but he
+was silent.
+
+[Illustration: 1. Querqueville Church.]
+
+From Octeville we proceeded to Querqueville, where, in the same churchyard
+as the parochial church, stands a little church, named after St. Germain,
+the first apostle of the Cotentin, who, in the fifth century, landed from
+England on the coast of La Hogue, and preached Christianity in this
+district and the valley traversed by the river Saire, which falls into the
+sea near St. Vaast-la-Hogue. This tiny church, for it measures only 34
+feet by 24, and is 11 feet high, is by some supposed to have been a temple
+of the Gauls converted into a Christian place of worship; the nave and
+tower having been added to the old temple, which consists of a triple apse
+forming a regular trefoil, each of which has a domed top. We drove on to
+Nacqueville, the chateau of Comte Hippolyte de Tocqueville. The park is
+prettily laid out, a stream of water runs in front of the house, and a row
+of blue hydrangeas blazed forth in great beauty, with the relief of a
+background of dark firs. Time prevented us from pursuing our excursion
+further west, to see the famed cliffs of Jobourg.
+
+[Illustration: 2. Plan of Querqueville Church.]
+
+To the east of Cherbourg a high road leads to Barfleur and the lighthouse
+of Gatteville, between which and the Isle of Wight is the narrowest point
+of the English Channel, passing by Saint-Pierre-Eglise, near which is the
+chateau of the late Alexis de Tocqueville, author of 'Democracy in
+America;' but we did not get further on the road than Tourlaville, the
+ancient chateau of the Ravalet family, upon whom tradition has heaped
+every crime imaginable. One seigneur entered the church with his hounds
+and stabbed the priest at the altar, because he refused to administer to
+him the consecrated element; another hanged some of his vassals, because
+they did not grind their corn at the seignorial mill, for "haute or basse
+justice" was then among the nobles' rights. Marguerite, a daughter of this
+ancient house, expiated, with her brother, their offences upon the
+scaffold at Paris. Every effort was made to spare their lives; but the
+King, or rather Queen Margot, was inexorable. The chateau of Tourlaville
+is beautifully situated; it is in the style of the Renaissance, with an
+angular tower, which recalls that of Heidelberg Castle. The ground-floor
+consists of two large unfurnished rooms, and a staircase, with iron
+railing, leads to the story above. In one room hangs the portrait of a
+lady chateleine, in the costume of the period of Louis XIII., with the
+chateau of Tourlaville in the distance. On her left are eight Cupids with
+bandages over their eyes, one in advance of the others is not blinded.
+From the lady's mouth is a label, with the inscription "Un (seul) me
+suffit." This is said to be the portrait of the Lady Marguerite, but the
+costume is of a later date. In one of the rooms is a chimney-piece covered
+with a variety of amatory devices and mottoes:--a Cupid blinded, holding a
+lighted torch, motto "Ce qui me donne la vie me cause la mort." Again,
+another Cupid with eyes bandaged, pouring water out of a vase to cool a
+flaming heart he holds in his hand, motto "Sa froideur me glace les veines
+et son ardeur brule mon coeur." Six winged hearts flying at the approach of
+Cupid, but which are reached by his darts, "Meme en fuyant l'on est pris."
+Further is a sentiment in verse:--
+
+
+    "Plusieurs sont atteints de ce feu,
+    Mais il ne s'en guerit que fort peu."
+
+
+Again,--
+
+
+    "Ces deux n'en font qu'un."
+
+
+[Illustration: 3. Chateau of Tourlaville.]
+
+A river in the foreground, in the distance a setting sun, motto "Ainsi
+puissai-je mourir." This assemblage of devices and mottoes is not
+applicable to any particular individual, but may be supposed to be merely
+an expression of the taste of the time. They are of the seventeenth
+century, when the Ravalet had been succeeded by the Franquetot family, who
+have since taken the name of Coigny. Their arms, with several others, are
+in the little boudoir in one of the towers, called the Blue Chamber. Its
+walls are distempered blue, and the coverlet and hangings of the bed, with
+all the decorations of the room, are of the same colour. Having admired
+the lovely view from the "Tour des quatre vents," we descended to the
+kitchen of the farmer who rents the house, which now belongs to the
+Tocqueville family. His wife was busily employed in making "crepes," a
+favourite kind of cake in Normandy and Brittany. It is made generally of
+the flour of the sarrasin or buckwheat, mixed with milk or water, and
+spread into a kind of pancake, which is fried on an iron pan, resembling
+the Scotch griddle-cakes. Another variety, called "galette," is made of
+the same ingredients, but differs from the crepe in its being made three
+or four times the thickness, and is therefore not so light. Though
+generally made of buckwheat, wheat or oat-flour is sometimes used; and in
+the towns, sugar and cinnamon and vanilla are added, and the simple
+character of the crepe entirely changed under the hands of the
+confectioner. The little village of Tourlaville was famous for its
+glassworks, until supplanted by those of Gobain.
+
+On our return to Cherbourg we visited the lace school of the Soeurs de la
+Providence, where about two hundred girls are employed in making black
+lace like that of Bayeux, which has now completely superseded the
+Chantilly; the manner of making both laces is similar. The old Chantilly
+has completely died out, and the modern manufacture extends the whole
+length of Normandy from Cherbourg to Bayeux. How the children can keep the
+bobbins from entangling is a marvel; there were as many as five hundred on
+one pillow. The lace-makers were chiefly employed in flounces, shawls, and
+other large works. These are all made in separate pieces, and united by
+the stitch called fine joining or "raboutissage." A half-shawl or "pointe"
+was divided into thirty segments. We passed the evening at the
+Etablissement, and next morning left Cherbourg.
+
+The railway traverses the picturesque and rocky valley of Quincampoix to
+Martinvast, whose little Romanesque church stands close to the station,
+and at a short distance is the chateau of Martinvast, where its late
+proprietor, M. du Moncel, established a model farm. A monument has been
+erected to his memory in the church by the commune of Martinvast.
+
+[Illustration: 4. Castle of Bricquebec.]
+
+At Sottevast we took the omnibus for Bricquebec, which lies nearly five
+miles from the station. Its ruined castle, dating from the end of the
+fourteenth century, with its lofty octagonal donjon, nearly a hundred feet
+high, standing on a high "motte" or artificial mound, has a most imposing
+appearance. Bricquebec, the most considerable demesne of the Cotentins,
+was taken by King Henry V. from the Sire d'Estouteville, who had so
+gallantly defended Mont St. Michel against him. Henry gave Bricquebec to
+William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, the ill-fated favourite of Queen
+Margaret of Anjou, and he, on being taken prisoner by the French, sold it,
+to raise the money for his ransom, to Sir Bertie Entwistle, who fought at
+Agincourt, and who held it till the battle of Formigny expelled the
+English from Normandy, and Sir Bertie fell at St. Albans in the
+Lancastrian cause. The inn, "Hotel du Vieux Chateau," is within the
+enclosure of the ruins--a most dilapidated old place; our dirty
+ill-furnished room next to a hayloft, the horses passing through the house
+to the stable, and every kind of litter and rubbish accumulated under the
+windows. Yet in the room we occupied had once slept our gracious Sovereign
+Queen Victoria. On a placard is inscribed, "Chambre de la famille royale
+d'Angleterre, 18 Aout 1857;" and below stairs is another, setting forth,
+"S. M. la Reine d'Angleterre, le Prince Albert, les Princesses Royale et
+Alice, le Prince Alfred, sont descendus a l'hotel du Vieux Chateau le 10
+Aout 1857." About a mile from Bricquebec is a Trappist convent; but we
+were not allowed admission beyond the parlour, where is sold a quantity of
+cutlery, not made--as we were given to understand when offered for sale--by
+the monks.
+
+Regaining the railroad, we went on to Valognes, which has been styled the
+St. Germain of Normandy; a dull town, with worn-out houses, occupied by
+worn-out aristocratic families. The grass grows in the streets.
+
+Here we left the rail and proceeded to Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte. On
+entering the town, the castle is on the right of the road, the Abbey
+church on the left. The large demesne of Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte passed
+by marriage into the Harcourt family, and belonged, in the time of Edward
+III., to Geoffrey d'Harcourt, whose fortress was one of the most
+formidable in Normandy. Banished from France, he went over to England and
+persuaded Edward III. to make a descent upon Normandy instead of Gascony,
+assuring him he would find rich towns and fair castles without any means
+of defence, and that his people would gain wealth enough to suffice them
+for twenty years to come. The King landed at La Hogue, or Saint
+Vaast-la-Hogue, as it is now called, where he knighted the Prince of Wales
+and made Warwick and Harcourt marshals of his army. They advanced in three
+divisions--the King and the Prince in the centre, the two marshals on the
+right and left--ravaging all before them, and not stopping in their
+victorious course till the great victory at Crecy. Harcourt subsequently
+met a traitor's fate. A force was sent against him, his army was routed,
+and, preferring death to being taken, he fought most valiantly until he
+was struck to the ground by French lances, when some men-at-arms
+dispatched him with their swords. He had sold the reversion of his castle
+to King Edward III., to whom it was confirmed by the treaty of Bretigny.
+Edward bestowed the barony upon that pride of English chivalry, Sir John
+Chandos, in recompense for his great services in the wars. The square
+donjon and inner gate were built by Chandos. The castle is well preserved,
+and is now used as a hospice for orphans and aged women. The rooms are
+kept beautifully clean, and on a tablet in one of the corridors is written
+up "Dortoirs restaures par la munificence de M. le Comte Georges
+d'Harcourt en memoire de ses illustres ayeux, anciens Seigneurs de ce
+chateau, en 1838."
+
+The Benedictine convent also belonged to the Harcourts until the revolt of
+Geoffrey. It is now the property of the Soeurs de la Misericorde, who have
+rebuilt the fine Abbey church according to its former model. Originally
+built in the eleventh century, it was partly burnt in the fourteenth, and
+reconstructed in the fifteenth. The columns and arches of the nave are of
+the first period; the form of the church is a Latin cross, having an apse
+ornamented with a double row of lancet windows, richly sculptured. The
+sculptures are all executed by an untaught workman of the place, who died
+before he had completed the pulpit. To collect the funds necessary for the
+undertaking, the foundress travelled throughout Europe. Her tomb is in the
+church. "Julie Francoise Catherine Postel, nee a Barfleur, 1756. Soeur
+Marie Madelaine, Fondatrice et premiere Superieure Generale de l'Institut
+des Ecoles Chretiennes de la Misericorde, morte en odeur de Saintete 16
+Juillet 1846, a l'Abbaye de St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte." The badge of the
+sisterhood is a cross inscribed with their motto "L'obeissance jusqu'a la
+mort." Some of the party made an attempt at fishing in the little river
+Douve, but without success, though rewarded for their walk by a pretty
+view of the apse of the Abbey church, with its delicately-sculptured
+lancet windows, from the opposite side of the river.
+
+[Illustration: 5. L'OBEISSANCE JUSQU'A LA MORT.]
+
+We hired a private carriage (_voiture a volonte_) to Periers. After
+passing over a hilly road we crossed a marsh which extends from Carentan
+to the sea, and reached a town called La Haye-du-Puits--a singular name
+derived from the custom in the middle ages of surrounding the "motte" or
+enclosure upon which the donjon was built, with a wooden palisade, or
+sometimes with a thick hedge formed of thorns and branches of trees
+interlaced: hence La Haye-du-Puits, La Haye-Pesnel, and others. Here is a
+Norman church restored: all the capitals of the columns are of the same
+pattern.
+
+The Abbey church at Lessay, where next we stopped, is of the twelfth
+century, and considered, with Coutances and Periers, to be the finest
+examples of Romanesque in the Cotentin. The arches are round, and all the
+architecture of the church, which has been restored, is of the same
+period. The Abbey of Lessay had transmarine jurisdiction and the right of
+presentation to the Priory of Boxgrove and other endowments in the diocese
+of Chichester. The Abbey house, now inhabited, is a fine modernised
+habitation. At Lessay we saw the manner of washing linen practised in many
+places throughout Normandy and Brittany. Being first roughly washed in the
+river, the clothes are placed in layers in a large cask, with a bunghole
+at the bottom, alternately with wood-ashes, and on the top is laid a piece
+of coarse sacking. Boiling water is poured over the top, which, as it
+passes through the linen, absorbs the soda of the ashes, escaping at the
+bottom and carrying away with it all impurities. This process is repeated
+several times till the clothes are perfectly white.
+
+Throughout this part of the country the mistletoe hangs as the sign of a
+cabaret; and if cider is sold, some apples are fastened to the bush. On
+the road to Periers we crossed a "lande" or common, where we met numerous
+carts carrying sea sand, here used to mix with the heavy soil as manure.
+
+At Periers we slept at the little inn "La Croix Blanche," kept by Madame
+Casimir, the widow of a Polish officer, well known for her eccentricity
+and good cuisine. The entrance to the apartments in the inns is generally
+through the kitchen; in many the box bedstead (_lit clos_) stands in the
+corner near the fire, Breton fashion. On a barber's shop we saw painted up
+"Ici l'on rajeunit." The church has a tall spire, and is one of the finest
+religious edifices in this part of Normandy--painted windows, the capitals
+of the columns of varied foliage, and fine groined clustered arches.
+
+We had a most perilous drive to Coutances, the coachman, "en ribote,"
+drove us at a fearful pace, and we were thankful when we arrived in
+safety. The Norman cathedral is beautiful--so simple, so pure, and elegant;
+its tall towers terminating in spires; and the chapels being separated by
+open mullioned arches, great lightness is given to the interior. The
+Bishop of Coutances was officiating at the consecration of some stones for
+a new pavement; each flag was rubbed over and anointed with oil.
+
+[Illustration: 6. Coutances Cathedral.]
+
+The church of St. Pierre has a handsome square tower, pierced gallery, and
+apse with a double row of columns. In the church of St. Nicholas we
+particularly noticed the fine bosses of the groined arches in the chancel.
+The fonts hereabouts have the serpent with the apple, and the cross carved
+upon the cover. The church was filled with pots of flowers they were
+employed in removing, for the day before had been the Fete of St. Fiacre,
+the patron of gardeners. St. Fiacre, or Fiaker, was an Irish monk of the
+seventh century, who, according to tradition, obtained from the Bishop of
+Meaux a grant of as much ground out of the forest as he could dig a trench
+round in one day's labour, for the purpose of making a garden and
+cultivating vegetables for travellers. Long time after, the peasants would
+show the ditch ten times longer than was expected, and relate how, when
+the Irishman took his stick to trace a line upon the soil, the earth dug
+itself under the point of the stick, while the forest trees fell right and
+left to save him the trouble of cutting them down. Outside the town are
+the remains of an aqueduct, with ivy-covered arches, said to be the work
+of the middle ages. It is a good point of view for sketching the
+cathedral, and the public gardens also command a fine prospect.
+
+The approach to Granville is by a sharp descent. The town is built at the
+foot of a rocky promontory, the streets rising in terraces cut in the
+rock, on the top of which are the citadel and the church on the
+culminating point. It has been styled a Gibraltar in miniature. A fort was
+built here by Lord Scales, who commanded the English forces in the
+Cotentin in the time of Henry VI., and it was taken by surprise by
+Estouteville, the hero of Saint Michel. The church is cruciform in plan,
+the arms of the cross being equal. The axis of the nave is inclined to the
+left, as we afterwards observed that of the Creizker at St. Pol de Leon.
+It has been lately restored, and the painted windows are offerings of the
+different families of the town. The view from the top of the "Roc" is very
+extensive, including the Chausey islands and Jersey. A steamer runs twice
+a week to St. Helier. A deep cutting in the rocks opens on the beach,
+where the bathing-machines are stationed--curious little canvas huts
+carried upon poles, like sedan chairs. The tide here rises 45 feet. It was
+to Granville the Vendean army, commanded by La Rochejacquelin, appointed
+generalissimo at twenty-two, marched after their fatal step of crossing
+the Loire, expecting to make a junction with the English; but Granville
+was vigorously defended, contrary winds retarded the arrival of the
+English fleet, and the retreat from the coast, where it might have been
+supported by the English, was the ruin of the Royalist army. Of the 80,000
+who crossed the Loire sixty days before, only 8000 remained to make their
+last heroic resistance at Savenay, which ended the great Vendean war. A
+few months after, the hero of this noble army, the chivalrous Henri de la
+Rochejacquelin, fell from the bullet of a soldier whose life he had
+spared(1):--
+
+
+    "Lorsqu'en des jours trop malheureux
+    Palissait l'astre de la France;
+    Quand les coeurs les plus valeureux
+    Semblaient perdre toute esperance,
+
+    L'antique honneur, la sainte foi,
+    Brillerent dans cette contree;
+    Mourir pour son Dieu, pour son roi,
+    Fut le serment de la Vendee."
+
+
+The costume of the Granville women is singular. They wear long black
+cloaks or mantles, edged with a frill of the same material, and on their
+heads a kind of bandeau or under-cap, turned up at the ears, surmounted by
+a white handkerchief, folded square and placed horizontally upon the head,
+like the plinth of a Grecian capital.
+
+We drove to St. Pair, a small watering-place about two miles from
+Granville, nicely situated in a little sandy bay. In the middle of the
+church is the monumental tomb of St. Pair and another saint (St. Gault);
+their effigies, with mitre and crozier, side by side.
+
+Next day we had a beautiful drive to Avranches. A winding road leads up to
+the town, which is situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a view of
+Brittany on one side and of Normandy on the other--a broad expanse of land
+and sea, the former extending over the valley of the See, with its network
+of small streams interlacing each other; Mont St. Michel appears in the
+distance. The finest view is from the Botanic gardens. The cathedral of
+Avranches fell at the end of the last century, but a model of it is
+preserved in the museum. One stone remains, carefully surrounded by
+massive chains, with an inscription recording that it was the spot where
+Henry II. received absolution for the murder of Thomas a Becket:--"Sur
+cette pierre, ici a la porte de la cathedrale d'Avranches, apres le
+meurtre de Thomas Becket, Archeveque de Cantorbery, Henri II., roi
+d'Angleterre, duc de Normandie, recut a genoux, des legats du pape,
+l'absolution apostolique, le dimanche xxii Mai, 1172." The cemetery is at
+the foot of the hill; the tombs are of granite, with the letters in
+relief: among them we read many well-known English names.
+
+At Pontorson we could find no remains of the castle of Du Guesclin, which
+was nearly surprised by the English under a captain named Felton, during
+the absence of Du Guesclin, with the connivance of the "chambrieres" of
+the Lady Typhaine, his wife. Already their scaling-ladders were against
+the wall, when Juliana, Du Guesclin's sister, agitated by a troublous
+dream, awoke suddenly, seized a sword, rushed to the window, and upset
+three English who were coming up the ladder, and they were killed by the
+fall. The enemy retired. Next morning Du Guesclin, on his return to
+Pontorson, met Felton and his party, attacked them, and took them
+prisoners. When Typhaine saw Felton, she tauntingly exclaimed, "Comment,
+brave Felton, vous voila encore! C'est trop pour un homme de coeur comme
+vous d'etre battu, dans une intervalle de douze heures, une fois par la
+soeur, une autre par le frere." Du Guesclin caused the faithless
+"chambrieres" to be sewed up in sacks and flung into the river.
+
+John IV. Duke of Brittany conferred upon Du Guesclin the government of
+Pontorson, of which territory he was personally lord, by right of his
+mother. It was here he often resided, and here he celebrated being made
+Constable of France by King Charles V., and fraternised with Olivier de
+Clisson, agreeing to afford each other mutual help--"contre tous ceux qui
+peuvent vivre et mourir." The granite church was founded by Duke Robert,
+father of the Conqueror.
+
+Pontorson is the most convenient place for visiting Mont St. Michel. Our
+drive thither was by the banks of the river Couesnon, along a sandy road,
+bordered on each side by hedges of tamarisks, which leads to the "Greve,"
+or sands, which have to be crossed to reach the Mount, a distance of
+rather more than a mile. We met numbers of bare-legged half-clad women and
+children, bringing in the produce of their fishing, shrimps and cockles
+tied up in nets, and peasants with carts carrying in sea sand for dressing
+the land. The appearance of Mont St. Michel is very imposing, a cone of
+granite encircled by the sea. Above rises the fortress, surmounted by the
+church, a height of 400 feet from the top to the water. Below, at the foot
+of the Mount, picturesquely situated on an insulated rock, is the little
+chapel of St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, the founder of St. Michel. The
+Mount has been the residence of many of our English princes. Matilda,
+queen of the Conqueror, visited St. Michel.  It was here her son Henry I.,
+then only Count of the Cotentin, was blockaded by his brothers William and
+Robert, and obliged to surrender. Here Henry II. held his court, and, when
+Henry V. overran Normandy, St. Michel was the only fortress that held out
+against him, under its gallant defender Louis d'Estouteville of
+Bricquebec. Two cannons, now at the entrance of the castle, are said to
+have been taken from the English at the siege. Normandy was always the
+scene of the quarrels between the English Norman princes, of the disputes
+between the sons of the Conqueror, between Stephen of Blois and Henry of
+Anjou, and again of those between Henry II. and his sons, and of Richard
+and his brother John, to the latter of whom the Normans were attached.
+
+Seven French kings have made pilgrimages to St. Michel; and here Louis XI.
+instituted the order of knighthood, called in honour of the archangel St.
+Michael, but afterwards styled the order of the Coquille, from the
+cockleshells that formed the collar of the knights, and the golden
+cockle-shells that bordered their mantles. The motto of the order was the
+old motto of the Mount, "Immensi tremor Oceani" (the trembling of the
+immeasurable ocean), being an allusion to the popular belief that when the
+English approached St. Michel, the guardian archangel of the Mount raised
+a tempest to drive the enemy's vessels upon the rocks. This belief may be
+traced back to the time when the island was occupied by the Druid
+priestesses, who were supposed to have the power of raising storms and
+stilling them by their magic arrows of gold.
+
+We ascended by the flight of steps to the "Merveille," as the convent
+building is called, and well it deserves its name, from its elegance, its
+boldness, and its position, with a wall of above one hundred feet high,
+and of immense length, rising from the rock and supported by fifteen
+buttresses, and divided into three stories. In every point of view it is
+one of the most remarkable edifices of the thirteenth century. The salle
+des chevaliers, where the chapters of the knights were held, is a fine
+hall, with three rows of columns, and above it are the beautiful Gothic
+cloisters. The "preau" or court is surrounded by a double row of pointed
+arches, interlacing each other, and filled in with flowered spandrils and
+cornices, carved with the greatest delicacy and endless variety. The
+church which crowns the building is supported by a circle of enormous
+columns in the crypt beneath, called the Souterrain des Gros Piliers: it
+has been entirely restored, and the carvings are the work of the prisoners
+who were confined here. From one of the doors we went out to the platform
+or terrace called Beauregard, from the beauty of its prospect, or
+sometimes Sault Gautier, from a prisoner of that name, who three times
+threw himself off the platform to commit suicide. The view from hence is
+most extensive, the whole circuit of the bay extending to the west as far
+as Cancale. In 1203 St. Michel became a royal demesne, and the buildings
+were entirely reconstructed by the Abbot Jourdan, assisted by Philip
+Augustus; and the works were continued by his successors to 1260.
+
+Beneath and adjacent to the Mount, is the little island of La Tombeleine
+or tombeau d'-Helene, so called from a young lady of that name, who unable
+to accompany her lover knight when he left for England with the Conqueror,
+as soon as the vessel which carried him away disappeared from her sight,
+laid down on the shore and died. Every year, on the anniversary of her
+death, the fishermen will tell you they see a dove seated upon the
+Tombeleine rock, and remain there till morning's dawn.
+
+The guide pointed out to us the window of St. Michel, from which Barbes
+tried to escape by means of a cord made of his sheets cut into strips and
+tied together; but the line was too short, and he fell upon the rock and
+was taken up much hurt. The provisions for the fortress are brought in up
+an inclined plane, and raised by means of a tread-wheel, formerly worked
+by the prisoners. We were conducted to the spot where stood, with bars
+only three inches apart, the iron cage in which so many celebrities were
+immured. Dubourg, the Dutch journalist, who wrote against Louis XIV., died
+within its bars, devoured, it is said, by the rats. In 1777, the Comte
+d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.) desired it should be destroyed, but his
+wishes were disregarded. His cousin, the Duc de Chartres (afterwards Louis
+Philippe), with his brother and sister, and Madame de Genlis, subsequently
+visited the Mount. All exclaimed against the iron cage, and when they
+heard that the Comte d'Artois had ordered its destruction, they sent for
+hatchets, and the Duc de Chartres gave the first blow towards its
+demolition; but the fine old fortress is no longer desecrated as a prison.
+The Emperor has restored it to its original position, and it is now placed
+under the control of the Bishop of Coutances, and is used as an asylum for
+orphans under the care of a few Sisters.
+
+Next morning we crossed the boundary between Normandy and Brittany, the
+river Couesnon, which has often changed its course, once, it is said,
+running beyond St. Michel--hence the popular saying--
+
+
+    "Le Couesnon par sa folie
+    A mis le Mont en Normandie."
+
+
+We had a beautiful drive to Dol or Dol-de-Bretagne, as it is styled, to
+distinguish it from the fortress of the same name in the Jura, upon the
+taking of which Madame de Sevigne writes in her letters with so much
+enthusiasm. We were now fairly in Brittany, which though geographically
+part of France still remains very distinct, owing to the Celtic origin of
+its inhabitants. Brittany consists of five departments; but it is in Lower
+Brittany alone, comprised in the departments of Finistere, Morbihan, and
+the Cotes-du-Nord, that the true Celtic race, its language, names,
+features, costumes, and superstitions are to be found.
+
+This is the true Brittany, the Bretagne Bretonnante of Froissart, who
+calls the eastern part of the province, La Bretagne Douce, because the
+French language is spoken there. Dol was the great bulwark of Brittany
+against Normandy; the wall and moat surrounding the town, with some of the
+towers, still remain. Many of the houses are built, as the French term it,
+"en colombage" that is, with the upper story projecting some fifteen feet
+over the ground-floor, forming a gallery or porch supported by oak posts
+or columns with sculptured capitals of the thirteenth century. The inn we
+occupied had one of these porches: Madame Barbot, our landlady, and her
+maid, were both dressed in Breton costume, with lace-trimmed embroidered
+caps and aprons of fine muslin, clear-starched and ironed with a
+perfection which the most accomplished "blanchisseuse du fin" of Paris
+would find it difficult to surpass. The people here have the Breton
+physiognomy, sharp black eyes, short roundi faces and brown freckled
+complexions, a contrast to the blue eyes, long oval faces, and bright
+tints of their Norman neighbours.
+
+[Illustration: 7. Pilaster and Cornice from the Tomb of Bishop James,
+Cathedral, Dol.]
+
+The principal building at Dol is the Cathedral, built of grey granite, in
+the style of many of our English churches. On the south is the "porte
+episcopale," a large projecting porch with mullioned sides, and, near it,
+a smaller porch with a central column semee of hearts, the "armes
+parlantes" of Bishop Coeuret who built it. The clustered columns of the
+nave, consist of a central pillar surrounded by four others running up to
+the roof, so slender and delicate that they are united to the centre by
+small bars of iron. Over the high altar is an enormous wooden crozier,
+carved and gilt, from which the Host is suspended. A beautiful Renaissance
+tomb on the north side of the cathedral was raised in 1507 to the memory
+of Bishop James, who died three years before. The sculpture is much
+mutilated, but the arabesques are most delicately and elegantly chiselled.
+It is supposed to be the work of Jean Just of Tours, sculptor of the
+magnificent tomb of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, erected at St. Denis
+by order of Francis I.
+
+[Illustration: 8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]
+
+The chapel of St. Samson, patron saint of the cathedral, has been
+restored. Mad people were brought here for cure, and placed in a recess
+which still remains; the opening was covered over by an iron grating. Dol
+was formerly the ecclesiastical metropolis of Brittany; the see was
+founded by Samson, one of those British monks, who, with a whole
+population of men and women, emigrated from England to escape the Saxon
+slavery. They crossed the Channel in barks made of skins sewn together,
+singing, as they went, the Lamentations of the Psalmist. This emigration
+lasted more than a century (from 450 to 550), and poured a Christian
+population into a Celtic country where paganism was longest preserved. St.
+Samson and his six suffragans--all monks, missionaries, and bishops, like
+himself--were called the "Seven Saints of Brittany;" St. Samson was what
+was termed an "eveque portatif," meaning a bishop without a diocese, until
+he founded that of Dol. Telio, also a British monk, with the assistance of
+St. Samson, planted near Dol an orchard three miles in length, and to him
+is attributed the first introduction of the apple-tree into Brittany.
+Wherever the monks went, they cultivated the soil; all had in their mouths
+the words of the Apostle, "If any would not work, neither should he eat."
+The people admired the industry of the new comers, and, from admiration
+they passed to imitation; the peasants joined the monks in tilling the
+ground, and even the brigands became agriculturists. "The Cross and the
+plough, labour and prayer," was the motto of these early missionaries.
+
+
+    "Sur que le Ciel maudit l'arbre sterile,
+    Le sage passe en operant le bien:
+    Vivre et mourir a l'univers utile,
+    C'est la devise et l'esprit du chretien."
+                    _Chants de Piete_, MALO DE GARABY.
+
+
+The monks of Dol were great bee-farmers, as we learn from an anecdote told
+by Count Montalembert in his 'Moines de l'Occident.' One day when St.
+Samson of Dol and St. Germain, Bishop of Paris, were conversing on the
+respective merits of their monasteries, St. Samson said that his monks
+were such good and careful preservers of their bees that, besides the
+honey which they yielded in abundance, they furnished more wax than was
+used in the churches during the year, but that, their climate not being
+fit for the growth of vines, they had great scarcity of wine. Upon hearing
+this, St. Germain replied, "We, on the contrary, produce more wine than we
+can consume, but we have to buy wax; so, if you will furnish us with wax,
+we will give you a tenth of our wine." Samson accepted the offer, and the
+mutual arrangement was continued during the lives of the two saints.
+
+The marshy country round Dol has been formerly inundated by the sea; it is
+now reclaimed and protected by a dyke twenty-two miles long, extending
+from Pontorson to Chateauneuf. The whole tract is full of buried wood, a
+submerged forest, which the people dig up, and use for furniture. It is
+black, like the Irish bog-oak. They call it "coueron." In the midst of
+this plain rises a mamelon or insulated granite rock, resembling in form
+Mont St. Michel, called the Mont Dol. On the top is the little chapel of
+Notre Dame de l'Esperance, upon which was formerly a telegraph, and near
+it is a column surmounted by a colossal statue of Our Lady. Mont Dol was a
+consecrated place of the Druids. The guides showed us a spring which never
+dries, and also a rock upon which they point out the print of the foot of
+the demon, left by him when wrestling with St. Michael. We met the cure,
+who gave us a medal of the church, and told us the principal points in the
+view before us, extending over the whole Bay of Cancale.
+
+[Illustration: 9. Menhir, near Dol.]
+
+On our way back to Dol, we walked to a cornfield, in the midst of it
+stands a menhir(2) (they are so termed from the Breton _moen_, stone, and
+_hir_, long), called the "Pierre du champ dolant," a shaft of gray
+granite, about thirty feet high, and said to measure fifteen more
+underground. On the top is a cross. The first preachers of Christianity,
+unable to uproot the veneration for the menhirs, surmounted them with the
+cross, preserving the worship but changing the symbol. In the same manner,
+they did not attempt to destroy the veneration for sacred groves and
+fountains, but transferred to new saints the miracles of times past.
+
+We drove through a pretty country to see the Chateau of Combourg, where
+Chateaubriand passed his early days. It is a fine square castle of the
+fifteenth century, with massive towers at each corner, surrounded by
+trees, and standing proudly over the village below. The drawbridge has
+been replaced by a modern "perron" or flight of stone steps, which leads
+to the entrance hall. The salle d'honneur looks over a lake. We were taken
+into his little melancholy room which Chateaubriand so well describes.
+
+[Illustration: 10. Chateau of Combourg.]
+
+  "La fenetre de mon donjon s'ouvrait sur le cour interieure; le jour,
+  j'avais en perspective les creneaux de la courtine opposee, ou
+  vegetaient des scolopendres et croissait un prunier sauvage. Quelques
+  martinets, qui, durant l'ete, s'enfoncaient en criant dans les trous des
+  murs, etaient mes seuls compagnons. La nuit je n'apercevais qu'un petit
+  morceau du ciel et quelques etoiles. Lorsque la lune brillait et qu'elle
+  s'abaissait a l'occident, j'en etais averti par ses rayons, qui venaient
+  a mon lit au travers des carreaux losanges de la fenetre. Des chouettes
+  voletant d'un tour a l'autre, passant et repassant entre la lune et moi,
+  dessinaient sur mes rideaux l'ombre mobile de leurs ailes."
+
+The bed on which Chateaubriand died has been brought from Paris and placed
+in the room.
+
+[Illustration: 11. Peasant Girl of Cancale.]
+
+The next morning we left Dol for Cancale, of such world-wide celebrity for
+its oysters. We left the railway at La Gouesniere, five miles and a half
+from Cancale, to which we proceeded by the mail cart. It requires to
+travel in Brittany to form any notion of the detestable vehicles, whether
+public or "voitures a volonte," in which travellers in this country are
+condemned to ride. Uncleaned, unpainted, creaking, jolting machines--as
+fully tenanted with every kind of insect annoyance, as if one were
+travelling in a hen-house. The horses are good, hardy, enduring little
+animals, which go their thirty to fifty miles a day without any distress
+either to themselves or the traveller. The Breton drivers are gentle and
+kind, making more use of their voices than of their whips in urging on
+their horses. The town of Cancale is situated on the heights, a
+precipitous descent leading to the village below, called La Houle, which
+lines the edge of the shore, and is occupied mostly by fishermen. This is
+the port, and here are the pier and the lighthouse, and also a comfortable
+inn to which the people of St. Malo resort in large parties, an omnibus
+running thence daily. The panoramic view of the bay of Cancale is
+beautiful and most extensive, one vast crescent of sand some ten square
+leagues in extent, stretching from the picturesque rocks of Cancale to
+Granville, its most northern point, and including Mont Dol, Mont St.
+Michel, and Avranches.  The western side is lined with huts and windmills,
+but the water is so shallow that no boat can land. Having walked round the
+little hurdled-in oyster parks, numbering, we were told, about 600, and
+made ourselves very wet and dirty, though we borrowed sabots to enable us
+to wade through the mud, we returned to the inn, and next day reached St.
+Malo.
+
+[Illustration: 12. Tomb of Chateaubriand, and View of St. Malo.]
+
+St. Malo stands on a small granite island at the mouth of the Rance,
+connected, by a causeway called "Le Sillon," with the mainland. The space
+it occupies is so small, that castle, churches, streets, and towers are
+all crowded together, and the whole is nearly surrounded by a sea wall,
+which makes the town appear as if rising straight out of the ocean.
+Towards the sea, the bay is encircled with groups of craggy islets, many
+surmounted by forts, bristling up as the tide recedes, in every direction.
+Conspicuous among these island rocks is that called the Grand Be, chosen
+by Chateaubriand for his last resting-place, as he wished to be buried
+near the place of his birth. Singularly enough the name of the island "Be"
+signifies a tomb. On his request being granted, Chateaubriand wrote to the
+Mayor of St. Malo.
+
+  "Enfin, Monsieur, j'aurai un tombeau, et je vous le devrai, ainsi qu'a
+  mes bienveillants compatriotes. Vous savez, Monsieur, que je ne veux que
+  quelques pieds de sable, une pierre de rivage sans ornement et sans
+  inscription, une simple croix de fer, et une petite grille pour empecher
+  les animaux de me deterrer. La croix dira que l'homme reposant a ses
+  pieds etait un Chretien; cela suffit a ma memoire."
+
+At low water, the island is accessible on foot. The tomb consists of a
+plain stone without inscription, surmounted by a granite cross, and is
+surrounded by an iron railing. It is placed on the edge of a rock, and is
+the resort of crowds of pilgrims.
+
+
+  "La vaste mer murmure autour de son cercueil."
+
+
+The Hotel de France is the house where Chateaubriand's family lived, and
+the room he occupied is filled with various memorials of him. The
+Chateaubriand arms hang upon the wall. They were given by St. Louis to an
+ancestor who was wounded and taken prisoner at the battle of Massoura. The
+King changed the peacock's plumes, previously borne by the family, to
+fleurs de lys on a field gules, with the proud motto "Mon sang teint les
+bannieres de France." The tides here rise to between forty and fifty feet
+above low-water mark, so that the harbour is dry at low water, and is
+crossed on foot to go to St. Servan, the suburb on the opposite side.
+
+We walked round the ramparts and were shown the little gate down which
+were sent every night the watch dogs of St. Malo, "chiens Anglais qui
+s'appelent dogues." Shut up during the day, they were let out at ten at
+night, and recalled in the morning to the sound of a copper trumpet, by
+their keeper, styled the "chiennetier." Enactments were made for their
+maintenance, called the "droit de chiennage." When let loose at night, a
+warning bell was rung to apprise the inhabitants, as they tore the legs of
+every one they met. Hence it used to be said "Il a ete a St. Malo, les
+chiens lui ont ronge les mollets." In 1770, a naval officer trying to
+force a passage was attacked by a troop of these dogs prowling between St.
+Malo and St. Servan; his sword was useless as defence, and, exhausted, in
+despair he threw himself into the sea, but here he was followed by the
+dogs and torn to pieces. A few days after they were all destroyed by the
+municipality, and the custom of keeping them has been since discontinued.
+In an old map of St. Malo, or "Saint Malo de l'isle," as it was then
+styled, preserved in the Imperial Library at Paris, is laid down, near the
+"Sillon" a little sentry-box marked, "Corps-de-garde de nuit pour les
+chiens," and again, near the "Tour de la grande Porte," is the "Pont aux
+chiens." The date of the map is 1662. The arms of St. Malo till the
+seventeenth century were, on a field argent, a mastiff gules.
+
+The castle dates principally from the Queen-Duchess Anne, and one of its
+massive towers, the "Qui qu'en grogne" is a memorial of her dauntless
+spirit. Twice crowned Queen of France, she was the only one of her line
+worthy of the ducal crown. The Bishop of St. Malo was temporal lord of the
+town, and maintained he held it direct from the Pope, as a fief of the
+Church, because it was built upon land where a convent formerly stood; and
+consequently the Duke of Brittany had no authority over it, either
+spiritual or temporal. Duke John V. began to build a castle, but the
+Bishop opposed himself to its construction, and the contest lasted on
+until the time of the Queen-Duchess Anne, who, in defiance of the Bishop,
+and to shew that she was and always would be sovereign of St. Malo,
+finished the fortress and caused the lofty inscription to be placed in
+raised letters upon the great tower: "Qui qu'en grogne, ainsi sera, c'est
+mon plaisir;"--so runs the legend, but unfortunately a similar story is
+told of Louis II., Duke of Bourbon.
+
+On the opposite side of the mouth of the Rance is Dinard, lately become a
+favourite watering-place; it has good sands, and houses and villas are
+rapidly rising up in every direction, and covering its granite hills.
+
+The prettiest route to Dinan is by the little steamer which ascends the
+Rance, a lovely voyage, occupying about two hours. The banks one mixture
+of rocks, valleys, and verdure; the river now expanding into the width of
+a lake, now narrowing between its forest-clothed sides. After passing
+through a lock, and, winding our way through a narrow pass of rocky crags,
+we reached the bridge of Dinan; above us, the gigantic granite viaduct
+stretched across the valley, the town, with its feudal walls and castle,
+perched on its rocky heights over the river.
+
+In the Grande Place is a miserable statue of Du Guesclin, who looks more
+like a wandering minstrel than the hero of Brittany and Constable of
+France. His life forms quite an historic romance. His future greatness was
+foretold by a prophetess; his wife, the Lady Tiphaine, was herself a
+fairy; his battles resemble those of the giants of old. Du Guesclin was
+born at Broons, and was the eldest of ten children and of great trouble to
+his parents. One day his mother dreamt she was in possession of a casket,
+containing portraits of herself and her lord, and on one side were set
+nine precious stones of lustrous beauty encircling one rough unpolished
+pebble. In her dream she carried the casket to a lapidary, and asked him
+to take out the rough stone as unworthy of such goodly company; but he
+advised her to allow it to remain, and subsequently it shone forth more
+brilliantly than the precious gems with which it was surrounded. The after
+superiority of Bertrand over the other nine children explained the dream.
+
+It was in this "Place," where his statue now stands, the celebrated duel
+took place between Du Guesclin and an English knight, called by the Breton
+chroniclers Thomas of Cantorbery. Dinan was at that time closely besieged
+by the Duke of Lancaster (1359), with the young Count de Montfort, and
+defended by Du Guesclin. A truce of forty days had been agreed upon,
+before the expiration of which Oliver, brother of Du Guesclin, rode out
+unarmed beyond the city walls, and was made prisoner by Thomas of
+Cantorbery, who demanded a ransom of 1000 florins. On this news reaching
+Du Guesclin, he immediately repaired to the English camp, where he found
+the Duke of Lancaster playing chess with Sir John Chandos. They received
+him most cordially, and agreed that the dispute should be settled by a
+combat within the walls, the Duke of Lancaster consenting to preside.
+Victory declared in favour of Du Guesclin, who would have cut off the head
+of his adversary, had not the Duke of Lancaster interceded for his life.
+Cantorbery was dragged upon a hurdle out of the lists, and condemned to
+pay 1000 florins to Oliver; his horse and armour were given to Bertrand,
+and the felon knight expelled the English army.
+
+We drove to see the Castle of Montafilant, one of the apanages of the
+Rohan family, which passed with many others to the unfortunate Gilles de
+Bretagne, by his marriage with the heiress Francoise de Dinan. The castle
+is approached by a steep winding path, leading to the plateau upon which
+it stands. Before the use of firearms, its position rendered it
+impregnable. Of its seven towers, two only remain.
+
+The story of Gilles de Bretagne forms the subject of a romance by the
+Vicomte Walsh. Though his conduct was not free from blame, his long
+captivity and tragic end have rendered this unfortunate prince an object
+of pity to posterity. Third son of Duke John V., he was reared with Henry
+VI. of England, and personally attached to the English; but he never was
+in league with England against his own country, and his uncle the
+Constable Richemont regarded him as the honour and hope of his house. His
+wife Francoise was the most beautiful and accomplished woman of her time,
+the "perle de noblesse, de gentilesse, et de savoir;" and moreover
+possessed of the rich inheritance of her uncle Bertrand de Dinan, of the
+Montafilant branch. She had been betrothed from her infancy to the Sire de
+Gavre, son of Guy, Comte de Laval; but her father died when she was only
+eight years old, and Gilles de Bretagne carried her off by force.
+Dissatisfied with his paternal inheritance, the lordship of Champtoce, he
+retired to Guildo, one of the chateaux of Francoise's dower, where he
+passed his time in company with his English archers. His withdrawal from
+court was represented to Duke Francis as the beginning of a revolt, by
+Arthur de Montauban, his bitterest enemy and a great favourite of the
+Duke. Gilles neglected his young wife, and she is reported, in an
+unguarded moment, to have said to Montauban, she would marry him "if her
+husband were to die." Duke Francis was determined to get rid of his
+brother, and Charles VII. was persuaded to assist him in his vile design.
+The King arrested Gilles on the charge of high treason, as being in
+correspondence with the English; and, in proof of the charge, his enemies
+produced forged letters from the King of England compromising the loyalty
+of Gilles. Charles gave him over to his brother for punishment. In vain
+were Gilles's supplications to the Duke, or the entreaties of the
+Constable, who went to Dinan and knelt to Francis to beg for the pardon of
+his brother. Equally fruitless his being acquitted at Redon, from there
+being no proof of his guilt. The unfortunate Gilles was dragged from
+prison to prison, and consigned to keepers destitute of every feeling of
+humanity.  Montauban, an Italian by descent (his mother was a Visconti),
+sent for poison from Lombardy, and administered in his soup a strong dose,
+which the good constitution of Gilles enabled him to resist. Starvation
+was then tried, and the wretched Gilles would stand at his prison window,
+calling on the passers by to give him bread: "Du pain, du pain pour
+l'amour de Dieu," but no one ventured to relieve him. At last, a poor
+woman dared to give him food, and placed a loaf on the edge of his grated
+window, continuing for six months to share with him in secret her scanty
+meal of black bread. Seeing that he could hold out no longer and that his
+death was determined upon, Gilles begged the woman would fetch him a
+minister of religion, that he might confess before he died. By stealth she
+brought him a Cordelier monk, who confessed him across the bars of his
+prison, and Gilles adjured him to seek his brother and acquaint him with
+his pitiable condition. The monk started on his errand, but in the mean
+time the gaolers of Gilles determined on putting an end to his life. They
+twisted a cloth round his neck, and smothered him between two mattresses
+while he slept. The monks of Bosquen carried his body to their abbey for
+interment, and the wooden effigy that was placed over his grave is still
+preserved in the Museum at St. Brieuc. The monk who had received Gilles's
+confession went in quest of Duke Francis, who, on hearing of his brother's
+death when at Avranches, had left for Saint Michel. The monk met him on
+the Greve, and cited him in the name of his brother "de la part du Messire
+Gilles" to appear within fifty days at the tribunal of Heaven to answer
+for his murder. The menace was realised. Duke Francis died within the
+appointed time, struck with remorse, and terrified at the summons of the
+Cordelier. The monk was never seen again. On the death of Gilles, the Duke
+of Brittany himself wished to marry Francoise, but she would not listen to
+his proposals; and at last was obliged, in order to recover her liberty,
+to marry the aged Comte de Laval, father of her betrothed, with whom she
+lived peacefully thirty years, and had three sons. Duke Francis II.
+appointed her to the charge of rearing his daughter Anne.
+
+Arthur Montauban turned monk to avoid the vengeance of Duke Peter, brother
+of Gilles, and eventually became Archbishop of Bordeaux. The Pope gave him
+the Abbey of Redon, but popular indignation prevented him from accepting
+the appointment.
+
+On our return from Montafilant we stopped to visit the Lunatic Asylum
+(Asile des alienes), called Les Bas Foins, kept by the brothers of
+Saint-Jean-de-Dieu. There are six hundred inmates under the charge of
+about sixty brethren. The buildings, with the chapel, are very handsome
+and most complete in all the arrangements. Within the enclosure is a large
+piece of land. The lunatics are employed in agricultural, garden, and
+house occupations; they look very contented and happy. Visitors are not
+allowed to speak to them. We omitted seeing the Croix du Saint Esprit, a
+curiously sculptured Gothic granite cross of the fourteenth century, not
+far from the asylum.
+
+The castle of Dinan is now a prison. It was occupied by the Queen-Duchess
+Anne, when on her way to a pilgrimage to Notre Dame-du-Folgoet, in
+fulfilment of a vow made during the illness of Louis XII. In the chapel is
+shewn a sculptured seat, still called the arm-chair of the Duchess Anne.
+Within these walls were crammed, in the last century, about 2000 English
+prisoners of war, many of whom fell victims to a contagious fever. From
+the platform of the keep we had a magnificent view of the surrounding
+country, extending to Mont Dol and the sea.
+
+The church of St. Sauveur has a richly sculptured Romanesque portal. It
+contains the heart of Du Guesclin, transferred from the church of the
+Dominicans, where he desired it to be interred by the side of his wife
+Tiphaine. His body was buried at St. Denis, in a tomb King Charles V.
+caused to be made in his lifetime, and he left orders that on his death
+his Constable should repose at his feet. On the dark-coloured monumental
+stone now incrusted on the wall, are roughly sculptured his arms (an eagle
+displayed charged with a cotice(3)), with a commemorative inscription in
+gold letters:--
+
+
+    "Cy: gist: le cueur: de
+    Missire: bertram: du gueaqui
+    en: son vivat: conetiable de
+    france: qui: trepassa: le: xiii^e
+    jour: de: jullet: l'an: mil iii^e
+    IIII^xx dont: son: corps: repos
+    avecques: ceulx: des: Roys
+    a sainct: denis en France."
+
+
+Above hangs a painting representing the Governor of Chateauneuf Randon,
+laying the keys of the town upon the dead body of the Constable.(4)
+
+[Illustration: 13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir.]
+
+Many of the streets of Dinan preserve the character of the Middle Ages,
+the houses upon columns forming a kind of porch or covered way; and most
+curious of all is the dirty, steep, narrow, winding street, called the Rue
+de Jerzual, a ravine extending from the top of the town, in one pitch, to
+the river's edge. The Museum at the Mairie has an interesting collection
+of tumulary slabs--recumbent figures taken from different churches and
+abbeys, mostly from the Beaumanoir chapel of the Abbey of Lehon. There is
+one of Jean de Beaumanoir, son of the hero of the "Combat des Trente,"
+treacherously slain by his steward. He is represented in full armour, but
+with his head bare, to indicate the manner of his death. The effigy of his
+wife is also in complete armour, but on the belt that encircles her waist,
+like those worn by the knights, is sculptured a wreath of roses. She was a
+Du Guesclin by birth, and her feet repose upon an eagle, the bearing of
+her house. The statue of Roland, Vicomte de Dinan, one of the nine great
+Barons of Brittany in the twelfth century, is of gigantic proportions; the
+warrior is clad from head to foot in chain mail, but he holds one of his
+gauntlets in his hand. In the Museum is also a clock given to the city of
+Dinan by the Duchess Anne, inscribed with the name of its maker and the
+date of its construction: "1498, a Nantes par M. Hainzer de cette ville."
+The ancient bronze standard measures (etalons) of Dinan are decorated with
+the arms of the City, and Gothic inscriptions in relief, "Cart (quart) a
+gros ble pour Dinan"--"Cart a fourmant (froment) pour Dinan"--and "Bouesceau
+a scel (boisseau a sel) pour Dinan." Portraits of Du Guesclin and other
+Breton worthies are in one of the rooms (Salle de l'Odeon). That of the
+Constable answers to the description given of his appearance. He was low
+in stature, with large Breton head, broad shoulders, long arms, and large
+hands. His eyes were green, and his complexion swarthy: "la peau noire
+comme un sanglier."
+
+[Illustration: 14. Chateau of La Belliere.]
+
+The drives round Dinan are endless in variety,(5) and all beautiful. We
+took a carriage to see the Chateau of la Belliere, about five miles and a
+half from Dinan, formerly the residence of Du Guesclin's wife, the
+celebrated Lady Tiphaine; her name answers probably to our English
+Tiffany:--
+
+
+    "William de Coningsby--
+    Came out of Brittany
+    With his wife Tiffany
+    And her maid Manifas
+    And his doggs Hardigras."
+
+
+[Illustration: 15. Chimney. Chateau of La Belliere.]
+
+The Lady Tiphaine was heiress and daughter of the Vicomte de Belliere; so
+deeply versed was she in astrology, she was called Tiphaine la Fee. During
+her husband's absence in Spain, she resided at Mont Saint Michel, having
+chosen this insulated spot for the facilities it afforded her of studying
+the stars. She gave Du Guesclin a calendar on vellum, containing verses at
+the beginning of each month, pointing out the lucky and unlucky days; how
+many she marked down as such, we know not. Tycho Brahe had thirty-two
+fatal days in his calendar. Had Du Guesclin consulted this precious
+volume, which is now preserved in the Library at Avranches, he would never
+have risked his fortune by fighting the battle of Auray on the Feast of
+St. Michel, one of the fatal days against which she specially warns him in
+her book. We wished to have seen the room where she died, and where many
+memorials of her are preserved; but the proprietor was at his dejeuner,
+and would not grant us admittance, so we were forced to be content with
+seeing the exterior of the house, a chateau of the end of the fourteenth
+century. It stands on the edge of a large sheet of water, in the midst of
+trees on the roadside between Dinan and St. Malo. Its principal
+characteristics are its tall octagonal chimney-shafts, composed of
+granite, brick, and slate.  They are surmounted by pieces of slate placed
+edgeways and forming a kind of capital or coronet to the granite shaft.
+Some of the chimneys have two circles of these coronets, and others are
+enriched with little rows of arches, of which the sombre slate background
+throws out the delicate ornamentation. Recrossing the magnificent viaduct,
+we proceeded to visit the Benedictine Priory of Lehon, called in the
+country "Chapelle des Beaumanoirs" from the mortuary chapel of that family
+attached to the abbey:--
+
+
+    "Beaumanoir! a ce nom de glorieux prodiges
+    Des siecles ecoules reveillent les prestiges:
+    La pierre des tombeaux a paru se mouvoir
+    Et des trente Bretons les clameurs belliqueuses
+    Semblent repondre, sous ces voutes fameuses,
+    A ce grand nom de Beaumanoir." --AUBRY.
+
+
+The west front, with its round-arched portal surmounted by a large Gothic
+window, is very pretty. The chapel of the Beaumanoirs was ravaged at the
+Revolution, the lead of the coffins sold, and the bones scattered. The
+statues have since been removed to the Museum at Dinan, and the crypt
+beneath, where they were buried, is inaccessible. At the Revolution, when
+the monks were expelled, the priory was sold and used for a spinning
+factory; and the weight of the machines crushed the floors, so as to shut
+up the entrance to the vaults. In the parish church adjacent, is to be
+noticed an ancient baptismal font, of cylindrical form, sculptured within
+and without. We returned home by the Chateau du Chene-Ferron, approached
+by an avenue of firs, and had a lovely drive along the banks of the Rance.
+
+Our last excursion in Dinan was to the Chateau of La Garaye, rendered
+famous by the virtues and boundless charity of its last proprietors, Count
+Claude Toussaint Marot de la Garaye and his wife, whose interesting story
+is told in the charming poem of Mrs. Norton:--
+
+
+    "Listen to the tale I tell,
+    Grave the story is--not sad,
+    And the peasant plodding by
+    Greets the place with kindly eye,
+    For the inmates that it had."
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+Count Claude de la Garaye and his wife were young, beautiful, and endowed
+with friends, riches, and all that could make life bright and happy. They
+entertained with hospitality, and enjoyed the pleasures and amusements of
+the world; when one day the Countess was thrown from her horse, the
+expectations of an heir vanished, and she was left a cripple for life.
+Both were inconsolable for their disappointment. One day a monk came to
+visit them, and tried to comfort them, seeking by his converse to turn
+their thoughts from earthly affections to heavenly consolation--
+
+"Ah! my father," said the lady, "how happy are you, to love nothing on
+earth!"
+
+"You are mistaken," answered the monk; "I love all those who are in sorrow
+or suffering, and I submit myself to the will of the Almighty, and bend
+myself with resignation to every blow He strikes."
+
+He proceeded to show them there was still great happiness in store for
+them, in ministering to the comforts of others. Following his counsel,
+they went to Paris; for three years the Count studied medicine and
+surgery, and his wife became a skilful oculist. On their return to La
+Garaye, they gave up all the amusements of society, and devoted themselves
+to relieving the sufferings of their fellow creatures. Their house was
+converted into an hospital for the sick and the wounded, under the
+ministering care of the Count and his benevolent wife:--
+
+
+    "Her home is made their home; her wealth their dole;
+    Her busy courtyard hears no more the roll
+    Of gilded vehicles, or pawing steeds,
+    But feeble steps of those whose bitter needs
+    Are their sole passport. Through that gateway pass
+    All varying forms of sickness and distress,
+    And many a poor worn face that hath not smiled
+    For years,--and many a feeble crippled child,--
+    Blesses the tall, white portal where they stand,
+    And the dear Lady of the liberal hand."
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+Nor was their philanthropy confined to their own province. In 1720, they
+offered themselves to M. de Belzunce--"Marseilles' good bishop"--to assist
+him during the visitation of the Plague. The fame of their virtues reached
+even the French Court, and Louis XV. sent Count de la Garaye the order of
+St. Lazarus with a donation of 50,000 livres and a contract on the post of
+25,000 more.
+
+They both died at an advanced age, within two years of each other, and
+were buried among their poor at Taden, but their marble mausoleum in the
+church was destroyed in the French Revolution. Count de la Garaye(6) left
+a large sum to be distributed among the prisoners, principally English, at
+Rennes and Dinan, who were suffering pent up in these crowded gaols. The
+Comte had attended the English prisoners at Dinan during a contagious
+fever, called the "peste blanche," and, in acknowledgment of his humanity,
+Queen Caroline sent him two dogs with silver collars round their necks,
+and an English nobleman made him a present of six more.
+
+[Illustration: 16. Chateau of La Garaye.]
+
+The ruined chateau is approached by an ivy-covered gateway, through an
+avenue of beeches:--
+
+
+    "Le lierre flottant comme un manteau de deuil,
+    Couvre a demi la porte et rampe sur le seuil."
+                    LAMARTINE, _Harmonies Poetiques_.
+
+
+or, as Mrs. Norton renders it:--
+
+
+    "And like a mourner's mantle, with sad grace,
+    Waves the dark ivy--hiding half the door
+    And threshold, where the weary traveller's foot
+    Shall never find a courteous welcome more."
+
+
+It is fast falling to pieces. The principal part remaining is an octagonal
+turret of three stories, with elegant Renaissance decoration round the
+windows. One more quotation from Mrs. Norton, and we quit these hallowed
+ruins:--
+
+
+    "We know the healthy stir of human life
+    Must be for ever gone!
+    The walls where hung the warrior's shining casque
+    Are green with moss and mould;
+    The blindworm coils where Queens have slept, nor asks
+    For shelter from the cold.
+    The swallow,--he is master all the day,
+    And the great owl is ruler through the night;
+    The little bat wheels on his circling way,
+    With restless flittering flight;
+    And that small bat, and the creeping things,
+    At will they come and go,
+    And the soft white owl with velvet wings,
+    And a shout of human woe!
+    The brambles let no footsteps pass
+    By that rent in the broken stair,
+    When the pale tufts of the windle-strae grass
+    Hang like locks of dry dead hair;
+    But there the keen sound ever sweeps and moans,
+    "Working a passage through the mouldering stones."
+                    THE LADY OF LA GARAYE.
+
+
+From Dinan, instead of taking the customary road to the railway station of
+Caulnes, we hired a carriage, in order to visit the fortress castle of La
+Hunaudaye, midway between Dinan and Lamballe. The road lay by Jugon, a
+town prettily situated in the cleft of two hills. On one once stood an
+important castle, which gave rise to the saying:--
+
+
+    "Qui a Bretagne sans Jugon,
+    A chape sans chaperon."
+
+
+Jugon is on the edge of two ponds. One of them, the largest in Brittany,
+hangs suspended over the town, as if threatening it with inundation. They
+told us it was swarming with fish of every description, and with pike of
+fabulous dimensions. Turning off the road to the right, we entered the
+forest of La Hunaudaye, and walked in a pouring rain to the chateau,
+situated a short distance from the road. It is of vast extent, has five
+round towers with ramparts of cut stone, and is surrounded by walls with
+machicolated parapets. It is a splendid ruin, but the incessant rain
+prevented us from spending much time in its examination. It was built in
+the thirteenth century by Olivier de la Tournemine, and was one of the
+strongest fortresses in Brittany. Situated in the midst of a vast forest,
+its lord and his retainers were the terror of the surrounding country. No
+traveller passed untaxed; all were compelled to pay toll. In 1504, the
+Bishop of St. Brieuc complains to the Parliament at Rennes that,
+regardless of the safeguard of the Duke, the foresters of the Lord of La
+Hunaudaye had carried off his horses, trunks, and baggage, and, a year
+later, they had the audacity to stop the Queen-Duchess Anne on her way to
+a pilgrimage to the Folgoet. The Queen was conducted to the presence of
+the Lord of La Hunaudaye, who maintained to her that he had only exercised
+his right of exacting a ransom from all who passed through the forest
+without his permission, but that he waived his privilege in favour of his
+Sovereign. Be that as it may, he received her Majesty most royally, as the
+old chaplain, Oliver de la Roche recounts, and gave a splendid banquet,
+which he fully describes. The table, he says, was four times covered with
+thirty-six dishes of viands, and lastly, was brought in, "en grande
+veneration," by eight squires, a whole calf, standing on its legs, well
+seasoned, with an orange in its mouth; and, when it appeared, the trumpets
+sounded so loud that it seemed as if the walls shook. On seeing the
+"dainty dish" that was "set before the Queen," all wished to have a share;
+and the chaplain relates, with great satisfaction, how he was served
+himself twice by the Lord of La Hunaudaye.
+
+The dark deeds of the lords of La Hunaudaye have given rise to many a
+legend. The following is a translation of one of the most popular:--
+
+
+    LEGEND OF LA HUNAUDAYE.
+        _(Translation.)_
+
+    "When the rock eagle wakes,
+    And the towers of Hunaudaye
+    Gleam like three phantom forms
+    In the morning's sunlight ray;
+    When night her darksome wing
+    Folds round this desert waste,
+    Shun all this cursed ground--
+    Traveller flee thou in haste.
+
+    "There once--Great Heaven shield
+    Us all! and no ill arise--
+    There once--Hush! leave me not;
+    Hear you, from the ground, low sighs?--
+    There once--wrapped in the gloom
+    Of a dark and rainy night,
+    A man of haughty mien
+    Knocked at the door of might.
+
+    "'Open!' cried he,--it turns
+    On groaning hinge. The rain
+    Pours, but the frightened guards
+    Mark neither spot nor stain
+    On his purple cloak--nor his plumes
+    Droop wet, yet the torrents fall
+    Wildly and fast to night,
+    Beating the castle wall.
+
+    "The baron, stern and sad,
+    Was in his tower alone,
+    Pacing, with mailed heel,
+    Upon the echoing stone:
+    Cried he--'What stranger seeks,
+    This hour, my castle drear?
+    Ho! Oliver, Ho! Ralph,
+    See who intrudeth here.'
+
+    "'Heaven shield thee, baron brave!
+    A strange knight in the hall
+    Craves audience.' 'Lead him here:
+    Stay thou and Ralph in call,
+    At need.' Silent and slow
+    The purple-mantled knight,
+    Advancing, paused--his looks
+    Gleaming unearthly bright.
+
+    "'Who art thou coming thus,
+    Loud clamouring at my gate,
+    Thou truly puissant knight,
+    With not one squire for state?
+    Knowst thou at word of mine--'
+    The stranger knight smiled stern,
+    Replied in awful voice,
+    'Would'st thou my name? now learn:
+    Here is my train--behold!'
+    He cried. There hideous stood
+    One spectre, then two more--
+    A sight to chill the blood--
+    Unveiled their features pale,
+    All three in cere-cloth dressed,
+    Opening all wide to point
+    Where blood flowed from the breast.
+
+    "'Baron, these are my guard,'
+    Said the unknown--'Here, lo!
+    Thy father's aged form,
+    By poignard stroke laid low;
+    Here thy wife, cruelly slain
+    In the year thy brother fell;
+    They stand, pale, bleeding, stiff,--
+    Their murderer, can'st thou tell?'
+
+    "The phantoms three enlaced
+    The trembling baron round;
+    He vainly shrieked,--the walls
+    With demon laughs resound;
+    The echoing thunders rolled
+    Along the valley deep;
+    Lightnings, when pale dawn broke,
+    Blasted the castle keep.
+
+    "It stands a blackened pile;
+    The ruined gate is there.
+    But the sky lowers dark,
+    Oh! traveller flee, beware;
+    At this hour the shades of night
+    Brood o'er the solemn gloom.
+    Traveller, haste, oh! haste;
+    Leave this abode of doom."
+
+
+It was in the forest of La Hunaudaye that the Chouans of the Cotes du Nord
+were secretly exercised and drilled by their chief, La Rouerie, under the
+name of Gosselin, who died of horror on hearing of the execution of
+thirteen of his confederates betrayed by the physician Chaftal. Gosselin
+was succeeded by the "Cid" of the Chouan chiefs, Boishardy, called the
+"Sorcier," who, after his interview with General Humbert, was betrayed and
+shot by the "Bleus." For twelve years was Brittany cut off from France by
+this Chouan war, an insurrection even more formidable than that of La
+Vendee. The peninsular position of Brittany, its vast extent of coasts,
+its forests, its mountains, its people, speaking a strange language,
+entirely under the subjection of the priests, rendered it peculiarly
+adapted to carry on a war against the republicans; a war, the whole object
+of which was to upset all order, by preventing the citizens from accepting
+office under the republic, by punishing those who acquired national
+property, by stopping couriers and all public conveyances, destroying
+bridges, breaking up roads, assassinating public officers, and executing
+horrible punishments on those who sent provisions into the towns.
+
+The castle of La Hunaudaye was destroyed by order of the Commune of
+Lamballe, in 1793, that it might not serve as a retreat for the Chouans.
+
+We arrived very wet at Lamballe, a town most picturesquely situated on the
+declivity of a granite cliff, surmounted by a handsome church, rising from
+the very edge of the rocks. It formed part of the territory of the Duke of
+Penthievre, whose heiress, Jeanne la Boiteuse, married Charles of Blois,
+the competitor with John de Montfort(7) for the dukedom of Brittany. More
+tenacious of her rights than her husband, Jeanne would never listen to any
+compromise. After the treaty of Bretigny, the kings of England and France
+proposed a division of the duchy between the two rivals; but, intimidated
+by his wife, Charles dared not consent; and again, before the battle of
+Auray, when a division was agreed upon, subject to the acceptance of the
+Countess, Jeanne exclaimed, "My husband makes too cheap a bargain of what
+is not his own." And she wrote to Charles, "Do what you please. I am a
+woman, and cannot do more; but I had rather lose my life, or two if I had
+them, before I would consent to so reproachable an act, to the shame of my
+family" (_des miens_). Later she said to him, "Preserve me your heart, but
+preserve me also my duchy, and, happen what may, act so that the
+sovereignty remains to me entire." Her pride and obstinacy cost her
+husband his life. The name of Lamballe is associated with the memory of
+the unfortunate Princesse de Savoie de Carignan, the sad victim of
+revolutionary fury. On the death of her husband, the Prince de Lamballe,
+the vast estates of the Penthievre family passed to his sister, the wife
+of Philippe Egalite, and from her descended to Louis Philippe, King of the
+French.
+
+[Illustration: 17. Section of Lanleff Church.]
+
+Next day we made an excursion to the famed Temple of Lanleff, in Breton,
+the "land of tears," situated in a retired valley about six miles from the
+sea. According to the tradition of the country, it was built by "Les
+moines rouges," as they style the Templar Knights. The road was
+incessantly up and down hill, as we afterwards found they are throughout
+Brittany; a "pays accidente" it may be truly called. The chapel of Lanleff
+is composed of two concentric circular enclosures separated by twelve
+round arches, with cushion-shaped capitals, having heads, human and
+animal, rudely sculptured upon them at the four angles. Its whole diameter
+is about twenty-two feet. It was probably built by some Templar Knight in
+the beginning of the twelfth century on his return from the Holy Land. The
+number of arches may allude to that of the twelve Apostles.
+
+[Illustration: 18. Plan of Lanleff Church.]
+
+The parish church was built into the east side of the temple, the only
+part which has preserved its roof, and which served as a vestibule to the
+more modern building. A gigantic yew formerly grew in the central
+enclosure, and overshadowed it with its spreading branches; but the parish
+church has been taken down and rebuilt in another part of the village, and
+the yew-tree has disappeared.
+
+Close to the temple is a spring enclosed by flagstones. When moistened,
+they appear covered with blood-stained spots. According to the tradition,
+in olden times an unnatural father sold his child to the Evil One. The
+gold received for the bargain was counted out upon the side of the spring,
+and the accursed money left its print upon the stones. A bare-legged
+peasant who stood by with her pitcher, threw some water over the stones,
+and immediately there appeared round red spots of different
+sizes--indelible marks of the diabolical bargain. We went into a cottage
+close by, and had some boiled eggs and cider. The inmates were at their
+meal--a bowl of milk, into which they broke their buckwheat "galette." We
+were much struck with the jealous pertinacity of the Breton, to show he
+considers himself as of a different people and country to the rest of
+France, a feeling which more than three hundred years has not dissipated.
+Our driver would talk of Bretons and French as of distinct nations, and
+the Normans in this part of Brittany are the special objects of hatred,
+originating, perhaps, in the former subjection of Brittany to Normandy.
+When Charles the Simple ceded to the fierce Northmen the province now
+known by their name, their sovereignty extended over Brittany, and the
+dukes of Normandy did homage for both provinces to the King of France. The
+Bretons struggled hard against the supremacy of the Barbarians, but
+eventually had to acknowledge the Duke of Normandy as their sovereign
+lord.
+
+St. Brieuc, principal town of the department of the Cotes-du-Nord, has
+been described as an old town with a new face. Though one of the oldest in
+Brittany, it has little of antiquity to detain the traveller. The Palais
+de Justice is a handsome building, in the midst of a pretty garden,
+commanding a view of the Tour de Cesson, lower down the river (the Gouet),
+a large circular tower built by Duke John IV., and blown up by Henry IV.,
+at the desire of the Briochins, as the inhabitants of St. Brieuc style
+themselves. The mine split it in two, and the part that remains serves as
+a landmark for the pilots between St. Brieuc and its port, about two miles
+distant, called Legue. Notre Dame d'Esperance is a pretty church, rebuilt
+about ten years since, with a calvary in front, and a series of painted
+windows representing the principal saints of Brittany, and the most
+celebrated pilgrimages of the Virgin in that province. At St. Brieuc,
+1689, James II. of England reviewed his little army, and was received with
+royal honours by the bishop of the place.
+
+We proceeded by the railway to Guingamp, next to St. Brieuc, the principal
+town of the department, capital of the duchy of Penthievre. It is situated
+in the richly wooded and cultivated valley of the Trieux, a favourite
+fishing river of considerable size, and affording trout, salmon, and dace,
+from Guingamp to Paimpol, where it falls into the sea, a distance of
+twenty miles. It runs through the centre of the town, and is here a
+considerable stream.
+
+Attached to the Cathedral is the venerated sanctuary of Notre
+Dame-du-Bon-Secours, one of the most celebrated places of pilgrimage in
+Brittany. The pardon takes place the Saturday before the first Sunday in
+July, and owes its origin to the brotherhood called the "Frerie blanche,"
+an association of which Duke Peter accepted the title of lay-abbot. The
+motto embroidered on their banner was (in Breton) "A triple cord is not
+easily broken." The triple cord being emblematic of the three
+estates--clergy, nobles, and laity--in whose unity consisted the strength of
+Brittany. The Frerie blanche no longer exists, the triple cable is broken,
+the pilgrimage alone remains.
+
+[Illustration: 19. Fountain of Duke Peter.]
+
+La Pompe, or the fountain of Duke Peter, as it is called, is of later
+dater date, being in the style of the Renaissance. It consists of three
+circular basins in tiers. On the lower are sea-horses, which, with their
+wings, support the second basin, and Naiads uphold the third. On the top
+is a figure of the Virgin with her arms extended.
+
+The women of Guingamp wear high muslin caps, dark petticoats, and black
+stockings. Knitting-pins in hand, they work away at their stockings
+whether walking, talking, or with a load of butter on their heads, as they
+do throughout all Brittany. When not at work, their knitting-pins are
+stuck in their hair. Knitting and spinning are the occupation of their
+lives. When the Breton's idol, Du Guesclin, was a prisoner to the Black
+Prince, and was asked how he could raise the large sum named for his
+ransom, Du Guesclin replied, that "the women of Brittany would rather spin
+for a year and ransom him with their distaffs, than that he should remain
+prisoner."
+
+
+    "Quand vous etiez captif, Bertrand, fils de Bretagne,
+    Tous les fuseaux tournaient aussi dans la campagne;
+    Chaque femme apporte son echeveau de lin;
+    Ce fut votre rancon, messire Du Guesclin!"
+                    _Les Bretons_, A. BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Guingamp was given by Duke John V. to his son Peter, who resided here and
+rebuilt the castle. When attacked by his mortal illness, the physicians
+attributed his malady to witchcraft, and declared it could only be
+remedied by counter-spells. The Prince refused to have recourse to such
+means, saying, "I had rather die by the will of God, than live by the will
+of the Devil."--"J'aime mieux mourir de par Dieu, que de vivre de par le
+Diable."
+
+We walked to the small chapel of St. Leonard, picturesquely situated on a
+little eminence. It was built by Charles of Blois, on his return from his
+captivity in England, and dedicated by him to St. Leonard, the
+patron-saint of prisoners--a contemporary of Clovis, from whom he obtained
+permission to set free all the captives he should find in the prisons. In
+the month of May, people who are attacked with fever repair to St. Leonard
+to seek, upon the walls of the chapel or on the calvary attached to it,
+snails as cures for their malady. They must gather them themselves, pound
+them, and put them into little bags, which they wear round their necks. As
+soon as the fever leaves them they bury their bags at the foot of the
+walls of the chapel, and, if they fail to perform this ceremony, the fever
+will return. We found quantities of these bags, made of coarse linen,
+lying half-buried under the walls of the chapel. There is a pardon here
+every year, on which occasion only the chapel is opened.
+
+We took a carriage to Paimpol. On our way we stopped at the Chateau de
+Boisgelin, belonging to the Marquis of the same name, but could not obtain
+admittance. On to the Abbey of Beauport (Sancta Maria de Bello Porto),
+founded in the thirteenth century, beautifully situated on a tongue of
+land at the entrance of the Bay of Paimpol, opposite the island of
+Saint-Rion. In its large garden, which extends down to the sea, are
+planted myrtles, figs, mulberries, and other trees of the south of Europe.
+Beauport has been called the Chartreuse of Brittany. It is a lovely
+secluded spot, as, indeed, are most of the sites of the old abbeys,
+varying in aspect, but always beautiful. No description can give an idea
+of the magnificent panoramic views from the walls of the abbey.
+
+[Illustration: 20. Abbey of Beauport.]
+
+M. Merimee justly observes, "It appears strange that, in so early a stage
+of civilisation, the monks should be so alive to the beauties of nature.
+The contemplative habits of monastic life must at all times have imparted
+to the mind a feeling of abstract beauty, independent of any idea of real
+utility. Secure of an uniform, peaceful existence, limited in his
+pleasures and his ambition, sheltered by his sacred office, above others,
+from the reverses of fortune, the monk of the thirteenth century was in a
+position to love, and did love, beauty for itself. And while the knight,
+at war with all the world, thought only on building an impregnable
+fortress, the abbot embellished his dwelling, and tasted the enjoyments
+afforded by imagination and the arts. "The abbey of Beauport is built in
+the pointed style, and is a perfect example of the monastic architecture
+of the thirteenth century--the most important and most beautiful convent
+ruins in Brittany. The original disposition of its buildings may yet be
+clearly traced. These abbeys were all built upon the same plan. In the
+centre was the square garden (preau), surrounded by the cloisters. On the
+south side the church, extending from west to east; on the north, the
+refectory, with the kitchen attached. On the east was the chapter-house,
+and some small apartments; above these were the dormitories. Outside was
+the interior court, reserved for the brethren, and beyond, the great
+court, into which the provisions were brought, and round which were the
+stables and farm buildings. The garden, orchard, mill, oven, dovecote,
+cider-press, &c., were all within the walled enclosure, for the abbeys
+were not merely convents dedicated solely to devotional exercises. After
+prayer followed labour. The Breton abbeys were quite model farms; the
+woods and the commons afforded the means of rearing cattle to those who
+had the privilege of pasturage in the forests. Many had also the right of
+acorns and beech-mast for their pigs (_droit au gland et a la faine_). One
+abbey, that of Morimond (Haute Marne), is recorded to have had twenty
+piggeries, of three hundred pigs each, distributed in its forests. The
+monks also reared sheep and horses, and fattened fish in their ponds. They
+were the first who advanced the science of horticulture and the
+cultivation of vegetables. To these agricultural pursuits were added, in
+many convents, the industrial arts, and some of the brethren were brewers,
+curriers, fullers, weavers, shoemakers, carpenters, and blacksmiths. Their
+cultivation of the liberal arts and sciences is well known. During the
+Middle Ages the monasteries were the sole depositories of learning.
+Beauport is now occupied by a Polish lady, Countess Poninsky, who allows
+no one to enter the abbey, as her husband was buried in the church.
+
+Two or three miles further we reached Paimpol, where we remained the
+night, at a nice hotel. Paimpol is a seaport town prettily situated in a
+cultivated country on the bay that bears its name. Its inhabitants are
+employed in the mackerel and Iceland fisheries. The women about here wear
+close straw-bonnets. They all, in this department, ride on horseback, "a
+califourchon," like the men.
+
+We hired our carriage on to Treguier. At Lezardrieux we passed the estuary
+of the Trieux, over a magnificent suspension-bridge, at a considerable
+elevation above the water, vessels sail under it. It was built 1840, and
+is 833 feet long, that is, 167 longer than the famed bridge of La Roche
+Bernard (Loire Inferieure). The bridge swung frightfully when we passed
+over it. In the churchyard of Pleudaniel is a pretty granite calvary, and
+skulls are placed in recesses in the wall on each side of the
+church-porch.
+
+We next came to the Chateau of La Roche Jagu, on the summit of a hill
+overhanging the river Trieux and defending the entrance. It has more of
+the character of a "maison forte" than of a "manoir," as was termed the
+habitation of a knight, and of those who holding a fief, yet did not
+possess the seignorial right to a castle with towers and donjon. The
+manoir might be enclosed by walls and moats, but not with towers. The
+entrance on the side opposite to the river is through a large walled court
+by a low Gothic doorway, closed by an enormous iron grating of upright and
+horizontal bars of great thickness, hanging on four hinges, and secured by
+four locks; all the windows have gratings of the same kind. A stone
+staircase leads to the one story, consisting of a suite of large rooms
+half lighted by narrow windows. Some of these are occupied by the keeper
+of the castle and others are reserved for the use of the proprietor, the
+Marquis d'Argentre, and, when he goes there, are decorated and partly
+furnished with the pieces of old tapestry lying about. At the end of these
+rooms is a turret, which communicates with a covered gallery surmounting
+the whole length of the facade facing the river, and commanding a
+beautiful view of the windings of the silvery Trieux and of its
+fir-clothed banks. This gallery is furnished with battlements, and served
+the double purpose of a rampart and an observatory. The wall on the
+river-side is fifteen feet thick, and a chapel hewn in the thickness of
+the wall is lighted by a Gothic window looking over the Trieux. Fourteen
+elegant chimney-shafts of cut stone, cylindrical in form, and ornamented
+with iron spikes, give a most original character to the building. The
+chateau belonged to the Marechal Duc de Richelieu, who sold it in 1773 to
+the Tressan family, under the stipulation that its subterranean passages
+should not be explored. They are said to extend under the bed of the river
+to the Chateau of Frinandour, half a league distant.
+
+We next passed through Pontrieux, a pretty, small town, seated in a deep
+valley, the river Trieux flowing through it. The river here is famous for
+salmon, and there is a considerable commerce in its little port.
+
+La Roche-Derrien on the Jaudy, during the War of Succession in Brittany,
+was a castle of some celebrity. It was here Charles of Blois was taken
+prisoner by the English, who, under Sir Thomas Dagworth, were in
+possession of the place. Charles of Blois assembled a large army, and
+attacked them by night. Three times was he rescued, and three times
+retaken; he had received eighteen wounds, and was at last compelled to
+surrender. Jeanne de Montfort, like all women who hate, was very
+vindictive, and caused her illustrious prisoner to be ignominiously
+dragged to Quimperle, Vannes, and Hennebont, whence he was transferred to
+London, and confined in the Tower. It was nine years before he regained
+his liberty.  Meanwhile his heroic wife, Jeanne de Penthievre, became head
+of his party, as Jeanne de Flandre was that of the De Montfort. The "War
+of the two Jeannes" continued for nine years, during which they fought
+with fierceness and courage, and ruled with ability. Curious,--the history
+of France was illustrated in this century by five heroines of the name of
+Jeanne: Jeanne d'Arc, Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais, and the Jeannes of
+Penthievre, Flandre, and Clisson, who made themselves famous in Brittany.
+On his release, Charles of Blois gave La Roche-Derrien to Du Guesclin.
+The castle was demolished, but a calvary has been built on the site.
+
+Not far from La Roche-Derrien is the church of Langoat, which contains the
+monument of Ste. Pompee (1370), mother of St. Tugdual. On the granite tomb
+reposes her marble effigy, and around it bas-reliefs in Gothic niches
+represent the life of the saint. In all the churches in this district,
+tressels are placed in the nave ready for funerals. The gravestones have
+in each a little hollow well, to contain water for sprinkling over the
+grave, or in some a small basin is set upon the gravestone, with a sprig
+of box laid by the side, for the same pious purpose.
+
+Every one must be struck by the excellence of the roads in Brittany, as
+indeed throughout France; in no instance does the French administrative
+talent more fully display itself. The roads are of three classes: the
+"routes imperiales," under the care of the Government; "departementales,"
+kept entirely at the expense of the department; and the "chemins
+vicinaux," which belong to the communes or parishes, and which all the
+inhabitants are called upon to support. To each lieue de poste (two and a
+half miles), is appointed a "cantonnier" or road-keeper, who is
+responsible for the condition of the length of road assigned to his care.
+
+We stopped at Kermartin, a farmhouse near Treguier, to see the bed said to
+have belonged to St. Ives, the favourite saint of the Bretons, and whose
+name is borne by the majority of the inhabitants of the district of
+Treguier and St. Brieuc. Charles of Blois held him in great veneration. He
+gave part of a rib of St. Ives to the church at Lamballe, and carried the
+relic in procession barefooted to the church. Before the battle of Auray,
+he ordered his men to march "in the name of God and St. Yves."
+
+St. Ives, or Yves Helory, was one of the most remarkable characters of the
+thirteenth century. He studied law in the schools of Paris, and applied
+his talents in defending the cause of the poor; hence he was called "the
+poor man's advocate;" and so great to this day is the confidence placed in
+his justice, that, in the department of the Cotes-du-Nord, when a debtor
+falsely denies his debt, a peasant will pay twenty sous for a mass to St.
+Yves, convinced that St. Yves will cause the faithless creditor to die
+within the year. His truthfulness was such, he was called St. Yves de
+Verite. He is the special patron of lawyers, and always represented in the
+"mortier," or lawyer's cap, with an ermine-trimmed scarlet robe.
+
+
+    "Saint Yves etait Breton,
+    Avocat et pas larron,
+    Chose rare, se dit-on."
+
+
+Lawyers, says a writer, take him for a patron, but not for a model. Philip
+le Hardi, in acknowledgment of his worth, granted him a pension of six
+deniers a day--in those times a considerable sum.
+
+Over this house is a marble tablet with this inscription:--
+
+         "Ici est ne le 17 Oct^r 1253, et est mort le 19 Mai 1303,
+
+                               SAINT YVES,
+
+  Officiel de Treguier, cure de Tredretz et de Lohannec. Sa maison, qui a
+  subsiste jusqu'en l'annee 1834, ayant ete alors demolie a cause de
+  vetuste, Mg^r Hyacinthe Louis de Quelen, Arch^vque de Paris, et
+  proprietaire des domaines de Kermartin, a fait placer cette inscription,
+  afin qu'un lieu sanctifie par la presence d'un si grand serviteur de
+  Dieu ne demeurat pas inconnu (1837)."
+
+The house is a good specimen of a Breton dwelling; by the side of the
+fire, in the one room of which most of these cottages consist, fixed
+against the wall like the berth of a ship, stands the bedstead or "lit
+clos" of old oak, shut in by carved and well-waxed sliding panels, often
+inscribed with the sacred monogram.  The two mattresses, paillasse, and
+"cossette de plume," are piled up to such a height as barely to admit of
+its tenants creeping into the bed. In front is the customary chest,
+containing the family wardrobe, answering the double purpose of a seat and
+the means of ascending into the bed. Often we have seen cupboards on each
+side of the large chimney with two shelves, which served as beds for the
+juvenile members of the family. Forms and a polished table complete the
+furniture; the last has frequently little wells hollowed in the top, used,
+instead of plates, to hold the soup. Over the table, suspended by pulleys,
+are two indispensable articles in a Breton dwelling--a large circular
+basket to cover the bread, and a kind of wooden frame or rack, round which
+the spoons are ranged. Forks they do not use. Festoons of sausages, with
+hams, bacon, candles, skins of lard, onions, horse-shoes, harness, all
+hang suspended from the ceiling, which consists of fagots of hazel
+suspended by cross-poles. The floor is of beaten earth. One narrow window
+admits the light, and there are no outhouses. The manure-heap is generally
+at the house-door, and the pigs and poultry seem on an equally intimate
+footing as they are in our Irish cabins. The Breton's cottage has often no
+garden, to occupy his leisure hours; and the men, after their daily work,
+resort to the cabaret to spend their time and their earnings. Agriculture
+is very backward in Brittany, but the land produces abundance of corn. It
+is thrashed out direct from the field, on a clay floor (aire). Beet-root
+and clover grow very luxuriantly, and in some fields the pretty red clover
+(_Trifolium incarnatum_) carpets the country with its crimson flowers.
+
+Near the farmhouse of Kermartin is the parish church of Minihy-Treguier,
+formerly a chapel founded by St. Ives and attached to the "manoir." The
+will of St. Ives is framed and hung up in the church, and his breviary is
+also preserved here; but the guide said it was now kept at the priest's
+house, as people were in the habit of taking away a leaf as a relic.
+Minihy, _i. e._ Monk's House, is a name given to those places which,
+through the intercession of some saint, had the right of sanctuary. They
+were marked with a red cross, and, how great soever the crime, were
+regarded as inviolable. In 1441 the right of sanctuary was restricted to
+churches; before, it was extended to towns and districts. Treguier had the
+privilege within a radius of twelve miles from the town. St. Malo also
+possessed the right of sanctuary. Treguier is one of the four bishoprics
+that formed the ancient divisions of Brittany. The others were Leon,
+Cornouaille, and Vannes. The "pays de Treguier" answers exactly to the
+present department of the Cotes-du-Nord; Leon to the territory or
+arrondissement of Brest and Morlaix; Cornouaille has Quimper and Carhaix
+for its principal towns; and Vannes, the country of Celtic remains, is to
+the south.
+
+Treguier is prettily situated on a hill, at the confluence of the rivers
+Jaudy and Guindy; its principal building is the beautiful, imposing
+cathedral, with its elegant spire, begun in the thirteenth century by St.
+Yves, and dedicated to St. Tugdual, whose name, like St. Yves, is often
+given in baptism to the Breton children. St. Yves is buried here, and also
+Duke John V., who founded the Chapelle du Duc, and desired to be interred
+at the feet of St. Yves, for whom he had a special regard, and to whom he
+erected a magnificent tomb, for three centuries the object of veneration
+in Brittany. The Duke paid for it his own weight in silver (389 marks 7
+oz.), in 1424, to Maistre Jacques de Hougue. The victories of his father
+John the Conqueror were chased in bas-relief round the tomb, which was
+destroyed in 1793. Duke John V. was a contemptible prince, who eight times
+changed his party from weakness rather than policy, and on whom Margaret
+de Clisson and her sons retaliated the cowardly seizure of her father, the
+Constable Clisson, by Duke John IV. One of the towers of the cathedral is
+called the tower of Hastings, but its date is evidently subsequent to that
+of the Norman freebooter. The cathedral has preserved its beautiful
+cloisters, the work of the fifteenth century, although it has been ravaged
+by the Normans of the ninth century, the English in the fourteenth, the
+Spaniards in the sixteenth, and by the Revolutionists of 1793. It was the
+port chosen by the Constable Clisson, 1387, for the invasion of England,
+an expedition proposed and projected by himself. His hatred against the
+English was so great, though educated in England, he was termed the
+"boucher des Anglais." When the Duke of Brittany gave Chandos the chateau
+of Gavre, which was within a league of Clisson's chateau of Blain (Loire
+Inferieure), "I will never," he exclaimed, "be the neighbour of the
+English," and accordingly he sallied out one morning and burnt the castle
+to the ground. Chandos complained to the Black Prince, who sent a letter
+of remonstrance to Clisson, but it was only replied by a challenge to the
+Prince to meet him in single combat. Clisson caused his own ship to be
+built at Treguier, and had constructed a tower or framework of large
+timber, to be put together on his landing in England, for the lords to
+retreat to as a place of safety, and to be lodged therein securely in the
+event of a night attack. This tower, Froissart says, was so constructed,
+that when dislodged it could be taken to pieces, and many carpenters and
+other workmen were engaged, at very high wages, to go with it to England
+to superintend the putting of it together. Four thousand men-at-arms and
+2000 cross-bowmen were in readiness for the expedition, with horses,
+vessels laden with wine, salted provisions, and other necessaries. All
+these formidable preparations were rendered useless by the arrest of the
+Constable the day before his embarkation. We went to the Cemetery, which
+has its ossuary, reliquary, or bone-house, an inseparable appendage to a
+Breton churchyard. It is the custom in Brittany, after a certain time, to
+dig up the bones of the dead, and preserve their skulls in little square
+boxes, like dog-kennels, with a heart-shaped opening through which the
+skull is visible. They are all ticketed with the names and dates of the
+deceased, as "Ci git le chef de * * * D. c. D. (decede) le * * * * *.
+Priez Dieu pour son ame."
+
+[Illustration: 21. Skull-box.]
+
+These boxes sometimes occupy prominent places inside the churches or
+porch, on window sills, the capitals of columns, and other ledges; but
+more often are ranged in the ossuaries or charnel-houses built in the
+churchyards to receive them, with a row of death's-heads carved in the
+stone outside. The large bones are also placed in the ossuaire. The rich
+are buried in "enfeux" or arched recesses in the chapels or abbeys they
+have founded.
+
+We continued our carriage to Lannion, our driver not very clear of his
+way, and in Brittany the road is very difficult to be discerned; for on
+each side are high earthen banks, sometimes eight or ten feet high, and on
+the top of these are planted timber-trees, such as oak, elm, and ash,
+which often meet at the top, entirely intercepting the view, making these
+narrow lanes a perfect slough and most intricate to thread. Sometimes they
+are cut in irregular steps in the solid rock, and serve for the bed of a
+stream. Each field is also surrounded by these hedgerow-trees, which are
+cut every four or five years.
+
+We drove to Perros Guirec, a lovely little watering-place built on a small
+promontory with a safe harbour, whence wheat, hemp, and cattle are
+exported to England; it is six miles from Lannion. A dangerous rock,
+called Roche Bernard, is at its entrance. The view is lovely. From Perros
+we scrambled over a hilly cart-road to Ploumanach, about three miles
+distant--a wonderful spot, huge round erratic blocks of pink granite flung
+over land and sea in the wildest confusion. The whole coast is one sea of
+boulders, a chaos of rocks of all sizes cover the soil in every direction,
+and in many places there is no soil at all, and the loose masses rest on a
+bare bed of rock, stretching, in unbroken extent, to a great distance. "A
+wanderer," says Mr. Trollope, "amid this strange and silent scene might
+fancy himself the only living thing in the midst of a world turned to
+stone. In every possible variety of uncouth form and capricious, strange
+positions, the endless masses were around us."
+
+
+    "All is rocks at random thrown,
+    Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone.""
+                    LORD OF THE ISLES.
+
+
+One rock, surrounded at high water by the tide, is a square block of red
+granite of thirty to forty feet high, placed on the top of a still higher
+mass, on which it rests upon a very small base. It is called the "Roche
+Pendue," and serves as a landmark for the fishermen. We took a small boat
+full of fish resembling codlings or small cod, called "lieu," and were
+rowed by the fishermen through a sea of granite boulders to the opposite
+side of the Tregastel estuary, to see the "pierre pendue," or
+rocking-stone (Breton, _rouler_), the largest in Brittany. These stones
+are so nicely poised that they can be moved with the slightest impulse by
+any one knowing the exact point at which to touch them. They were used in
+early times as proving-stones, and called "Pierres de verite."
+
+
+                    "Firm as it seems,
+    Such is its strange and virtuous property,
+    It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch
+    Of him whose breast is pure; but to a traitor,
+    Though e'en a giant's prowess nerved his arm,
+    It stands as fixed as Snowdon." --MASON.
+
+
+Or, as Sir Walter Scott alludes to them,--
+
+
+      "Some, chance-poised and balanced, lay
+    So that a stripling arm might sway
+      A mass no host could raise,
+    In nature's rage at random thrown,
+    Yet trembling like the Druid's Stone,
+      On its precarious base." --LORD OF THE ISLES.
+
+
+The council of Nantes, in the seventh century, ordered the bishops to have
+the rocking-stones destroyed. The coarse rose-coloured granite of this
+coast resembles the Egyptian.
+
+We rowed back to the little inn at Ploumanach, and had some eggs and a hot
+langouste or rock-lobster. This kind is more plentiful on the coast of
+Brittany than the common, but these rocky shores abound in both sorts. The
+village of Ploumanach is built nearly into the sea, in the midst of rocks
+overhanging the harbour. It is almost exclusively frequented by fishermen;
+in the front is a group of rocks or islands called Les Sept Iles; the Ile
+aux Moines, the most important among them, is strongly fortified, and is
+directly opposite Ploumanach. At the inn we found a German artist employed
+in making sketches in oil of this strange coast. It was late when we
+reached Lannion, a town prettily situated in the valley of Leguer; it
+contains no remarkable buildings except a few houses of the period of
+Henry IV. and Louis XIII. in the market-place. The mackerel and other
+fisheries are carried on from here, the grande and petite peche, the
+"lieu" is taken in shoals and salted. The seaweed or wrack (_Fucus
+vesiculosus_) called goemon, is extensively collected along the coasts of
+Brittany for fertilising the lands and also for fuel, which last is so
+scarce that even cow-dung is collected and dried against the walls for the
+same use. The gathering of goemon takes place in March and September, and
+employs the whole population of the district. Souvestre says, that on the
+appointed day for gathering the crop, horses, oxen, cows, dogs, every
+animal, and every machine, is put into requisition. Women and children all
+are assembled in the bays, sometimes to the number of 10,000 persons; but,
+to allow the poor to have the full advantage, the custom is, on the first
+day, to admit only the necessitous of the parish. These borrow their
+neighbours' vehicles, and collect a good crop. It is called "the day of
+the poor." The goemon grows on rocks at a distance from the shore, and the
+peasants not having sufficient boats to collect it tie the heaps together
+with cords on to branches of trees and form a raft, on which the whole
+family is launched; a barrel is attached at the end, and the unsteady
+craft often rolls over and its cargo is precipitated into the water. The
+fine sands of the sea shore are also carted and laid on the heavy lands to
+divide the soil. Ascending the valley of the Leguer, about eight miles
+from Lannion, on the opposite side of the river, we turned down a muddy
+lane, and getting out into a field saw in front of us the imposing castle
+of Tonquedec, perhaps the finest remains in Brittany of military
+architecture, dating from the fourteenth century. It crowns the summit of
+a hill, wooded down to the river's edge, with water-mills and a little
+village at the foot, the bright sparkling river running through the deep
+wild valley; nothing can exceed the picturesque effect of these ruins when
+seen from the opposite bank. Tonquedec has belonged from time immemorial
+to the Viscomtes de Coetmen, who held the first rank among the nobles of
+Brittany, but one of them espousing the cause of the Constable Clisson
+against Duke John IV. saw his fortress demolished. It was restored under
+Henry IV., and again dismantled by order of Cardinal Richelieu, who hated
+castles and their nobility. The castle is an irregular four-sided figure.
+It had an outer enclosure, and was entered by a drawbridge, and furnished
+with every imaginable fortification. Three sides were surrounded by
+dwellings, among these a fine roofed salle d'armes remains. A flying
+bridge led to the keep, which was of four stories, but the entrance on the
+first story, so that in case of siege the garrison might retire to the
+keep, and hold out till want of provisions or ammunition compelled them to
+surrender. The towers and walls remain, the latter are ten feet thick.
+
+On our way to Plouaret we drove up to the chateau of Kergrist, a square
+edifice with pepper-box towers at each angle, in good preservation,
+occupied by a lady of the name of Douglas. Our driver could not find the
+way to the "Chapelle des Sept Saints," built over a dolmen, which lay near
+the station at Plouaret, whence we proceeded by rail, and, entering the
+department of Finistere, shortly after reached Morlaix over its
+magnificent granite viaduct, the most important among the many which occur
+between Rennes and Brest. The railway runs parallel to the coast, and
+traverses, not far from their mouths, the streams which abound in this
+"pays accidente." This gigantic work is one-sixth of a mile (292 yards)
+long, and consists of two tiers of arches, fourteen in the upper line and
+nine below.
+
+Morlaix is picturesquely built on the sides of three ravines, so steep
+that the saying goes, "De la mansarde au jardin, comme on dit a Morlaix."
+It is situated on a tidal river, about eight miles from the sea, ascended
+by small vessels, which give the place a lively appearance. Few towns have
+so many beautiful timbered houses of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
+remaining. One of the most curious is that belonging to a miller, No. 19,
+in the Rue des Nobles, a street where the houses are built one story
+projecting over the other, so that the top stories of the opposite houses
+nearly touch each other and exclude the light. The fronts, gable-shaped,
+have their enormous beams richly carved, and supported by brackets and
+statues of St. Yves or other favourite saints; some are overlaid with
+lozenge-shaped slates, and finished at the point with a leaden "epi," or
+ornamental terminal. All have a kind of hall, panelled and sculptured to
+the roof, the staircases richly sculptured and supported by a pillar
+carved from top to bottom with statues of saints or grotesque figures
+superposed one over the other. Among the statuettes in the house, No. 19,
+are the figures of St. Roch and his dog; St. Christopher carrying the
+infant Jesus, St. Michael, and various others. On another staircase, in
+better preservation, but not so richly carved (at the Veuve Perron's, No.
+14, Grande Rue), are female saints,--the Virgin, St. Catherine, and St.
+Barbara.
+
+Morlaix gave a grand reception to the Queen-Duchess Anne, when on her
+pilgrimage through Brittany in 1505. The town presented her with a little
+ship of gold, bearing the arms of the city, and enriched with precious
+stones, and a tame ermine with a diamond collar round its neck. Anne
+received the ermine, and caressed the little animal, who returned her
+endearments, and, at length, suddenly concealed itself in her bosom, which
+unexpected proceeding startled the Queen, when the Seigneur du Rohan, who
+was by her side, exclaimed, "What do you fear, madam; is not the ermine
+your cognisance?" No less enthusiastic was the reception given by the
+citizens of Morlaix forty years later (1548) to Mary Stuart, then only
+five years old, on her landing in France. She was lodged in the convent of
+the Jacobins, and assisted at the Te Deum in the church of Notre
+Dame-du-Mur. When passing through one of the gates on her way back, the
+drawbridge, overloaded with spectators, gave way, and several persons were
+thrown into the water. Mary's Scottish attendants cried out "Treason!" but
+the Seigneur de Rohan, who was on horseback by the side of the royal
+litter, indignantly exclaimed, "Jamais Breton ne fit trahison." The
+loyalty and good faith of the Bretons is proverbial. "En tout chemin,
+loyaute," is a Breton motto,(8) and it is one of the virtues attributed to
+them by a Breton writer, who assigns to them four virtues and three vices.
+Their virtues consist in a love of their country and their home,
+resignation to the will of the Almighty, loyalty to each other, and
+hospitality. Their vices are avarice, contempt for women, and drunkenness.
+Their love of country and home is carried to an extent, rivalling, if not
+exceeding, that of the Swiss. The Breton not only loves the village where
+he was born, but he loves the field of his fathers, the hearth and the
+clock of his home, even the bed on which he was born, and on which he
+hopes to close his eyes. The conscript and sailor are often known to die
+of grief when away from their native land. Brittany possesses for its
+children an inconceivable attraction, and there is no country in the world
+where man is more attached to his native soil.
+
+
+    "O landes! o forets! pierres sombres et hautes,
+    Bois qui couvrez nos champs, mers qui battez nos cotes,
+    Villages ou les morts errent avec les vents,
+    Bretagne, d'ou vient l'amour de tes enfants?" --BRIZEUX.
+
+
+The Bretons are brave soldiers and good sailors; their disposition is
+hasty and violent, and even ferocious in anger. When the people of Nantes
+rose up in rebellion against Duke Francis, his brother-in-law, the Comte
+du Foix, sent to pacify them, said to him on his return from his mission,
+"J'aimerais mieux etre prince d'un million de sangliers que de tel peuple
+que sont vos Bretons"--Brittany has always been the theatre of great
+virtues and great crimes.
+
+On Sunday we went to the Welsh Baptist Chapel, to hear Mr. Jenkins preach
+in the Breton language. He has been there thirty years zealously labouring
+among the peasants, to convert whom he was sent by the Welsh Baptist
+Missionary Society. From his thorough knowledge of the French and Breton
+languages, he is eminently fitted for the task. He travels about the
+surrounding country preaching, and establishing schools, and has revised
+the Breton(9) translation of the New Testament for the Society, and
+circulated, by means of colporteurs, from eight to nine thousand Bibles,
+besides above 100,000 tracts. The task of acquiring the Breton language is
+less difficult for a Welshman, for the similarity between them is so great
+that the two people are able to make themselves understood to each other.
+The labours of Mr. Jenkins have lately awakened the attention of the
+Breton Roman Catholic clergy, who have publicly denounced him from their
+altars, but without causing him to slacken in the good work he has
+undertaken. Persecuted by a tyrannical priesthood, who hold dominion over
+a peasantry bigoted in proportion to their ignorance, his position is one
+of difficulty and danger; but he goes on with undrooping energy, convinced
+that, though the progress is slow, the good seed has not been sown in
+vain, and will, in due time, bear fruit, though those who first sowed it
+may have passed away. There were about a dozen Bretons at the evening
+service; they seemed to be constantly going in and out, as if unable to
+keep up their attention to so long a service. There are also English
+Protestant chapels at Morlaix and Quimper, and French at Brest and
+Lorient.
+
+We saw a christening in the cathedral, of a child about eighteen months
+old; the mother wore a wonderful conical cap of lace.
+
+A few houses from our hotel a ball was going on, given every week for the
+workpeople of the town. The clatter of their iron-pointed wooden shoes
+seemed quite to drown the music.
+
+Next day we walked to the Fontaine des Anglais, so-called from the
+slaughter of a body of English at that place. Jealous of the prosperity of
+Morlaix, Henry VIII. sent a fleet up the river to attack the place, and
+the commander, being informed by a spy of the absence of the chief nobles
+at Guingamp, and of the townsmen at the fair of Pontivy, landed with a
+force which entered Morlaix, burnt it, and returned laden with booty to
+their boats. Six or seven hundred men, who were intoxicated, fell asleep
+in the wood, where they were attacked by the nobles, who had hastened from
+Guingamp to the assistance of the town, and were all massacred. The
+neighbouring fountain, said to have been tinged with the invaders' blood,
+received in memory of the event the name of "Fontaine des Anglais." It was
+on this occasion the town of Morlaix added to its arms, a lion (emblem of
+vigilance), encountering a two-headed leopard (for England), with the
+punning motto, "S'ils te mordent, mors-les" (Morlaix).
+
+Emile Souvestre, author of 'Le Foyer Breton,' and 'Les Derniers Bretons,'
+the ablest portrayer of Breton manners, customs, and superstitions, was a
+native of Morlaix; he died in the Protestant Communion, 1854.
+
+We were recommended to sail down the Morlaix River to its mouth, as the
+scenery is very picturesque, but we had not time to effect it. The great
+beauty of Brittany generally consists in its river scenery, the Rance, to
+Dinan; the rivers of Quimper and Quimperle; the Aven, Elorn, and Blavet,
+are all highly picturesque and worth visiting. Our next drive was to St.
+Pol de Leon, partly along the bank of the river, passing under the church
+of Notre Dame-de-la-Salzette and the convent below of St. Francois. The
+tall steeples of St. Pol are seen at a great distance, and looking behind
+is the best view of the Mene-Bre, an insulated conical mountain, one of
+the Mene-Arre chain, situated near the station of Belle-Isle-Begard. A
+chain of mountains runs through the Cotes-du-Nord, and, at the western end
+of the department, forks off into two branches which traverse the whole of
+Finistere,--the Mene-Arre, or northern chain, and the Montagnes Noires, or
+southern.
+
+St. Pol looks like a town of the Middle Ages. "The holy city," as it is
+called by the Leonnais, one of the four bishoprics(10) into which Brittany
+was divided, comprising the modern districts of Morlaix and Brest. The
+Pays de Leon is remarkable for the number of its religious monuments, its
+fine churches, its bone-houses, calvaries, way-side crosses, and shrines.
+Crosses are set up in every direction, and of every description, from the
+plain unpretending simple cross of wood or stone, to the huge crosses
+flaunting in green paint, with tears of gold--specimens of the taste of the
+maire or priest of the district. No Breton passes the sacred symbol
+without kneeling to salute it, and making the sign of the cross--evidence
+that the piety of those who first raised them has not degenerated in their
+posterity. The country is rich and varied. The Leonnais is tallest of all
+the Breton race; his dress is generally black or blue, with a coloured
+scarf round his waist, his hair is worn very long, and his broad-brimmed
+hat has a silver buckle.  He is grave, of a calm confiding faith, which
+nothing can shake or alter, and of intense religious feeling.  The church
+is the place of meeting, where all his business is transacted, all his
+aspirations centered. Throughout Brittany the priesthood are low and
+ignorant. Like the Irish, the Breton farmer's great ambition is to make
+his son a priest. In no part of France are they more uneducated than in
+Brittany.
+
+St. Pol is still and melancholy, the grass grows in the streets, the city
+looks as if it had not awakened since its palmy days of the fourteenth
+century. Its churches, calvaries, cemeteries, all silent as death--
+
+                 "A deep, still pool in the ocean of life."
+
+Its lively neighbour, Morlaix, offers a strange contrast: its inhabitants
+may well say they are three hundred years in advance of St. Pol.
+
+The pride of St. Pol de Leon is the church of Notre Dame-de-Creizker. Its
+steeple, nearly 400 feet high, was said by Vauban to be the boldest piece
+of architecture he ever beheld. It is built in the centre of the church,
+entirely of granite, cut in the shape of tiles and open work, to within
+eighty feet from the base. According to the legend, on the spot where the
+church now stands, there lived in the time of St. Genevroc, a young girl,
+whom the saint found, when passing her house on the fete of our Lady,
+employed at her needle. He reproached her gently with her impiety, yet she
+went on sewing, saying "she required food on Sundays as well as on work
+days." But the girl has hardly finished speaking, when all her body became
+cold and motionless as a stone. She was completely paralysed. Asking
+pardon of St. Genevroc, he made the sign of the cross upon each of her
+limbs, and the power of motion returned. Grateful for her recovery, she
+gave to the saint, her house, which was situated in the middle of the town
+(as its name implies), as a site for his church. It is said to have been
+built by an English architect, invited to Brittany by Mary Plantagenet,
+daughter of Edward III., and first wife of Duke John IV.(11)
+
+The axis of the nave is inclined to the left, a mystic allusion to the
+position of the head of the expiring Saviour on the cross. _Et inclinato
+capite, emise spiritum_, "And He bowed his head, and gave up the ghost."
+The north porch of the Creizker is beautifully sculptured with leaves of
+the mallow, the vine, and mulberry. It was all under repair when we saw
+it.
+
+[Illustration: 22. The Creizker.]
+
+The cathedral has two fine towers with spires, and a magnificent rose
+window of the fifteenth century in the south transept, with, above, the
+"fenetre d'excommunication." The fine porch, lightly and delicately
+sculptured, is surmounted by a balustrade, whence the episcopal
+benediction was given. Over the high altar is a large wooden crosier,
+gilt, from which to suspend the ciborium, similar to that we saw in the
+cathedral of Dol. A black marble slab, at the foot of the steps of the
+high altar, marks the grave of St. Pol de Leon, who died 570. St. Pol, the
+patron bishop and founder of the cathedral, was one of the clergy of Great
+Britain who emigrated to Brittany in the sixth century; he landed in the
+island of Ouessant, and passed on to the country of Leon, where he founded
+a monastery. The island of Batz was, at that time, infested by an enormous
+dragon, sixty feet long; the saint, accompanied by a warrior, entered the
+cavern of the monster, tied his stole round its neck, and gave him to his
+companion to lead, St. Pol following, beating him with his stick, till
+they arrived at the extremity of the island, when he took off the stole,
+and commanded the dragon to throw itself in the sea, an order the animal
+immediately obeyed. St. Pol is always represented with the dragon by his
+side, the stole round its neck. We were shown a little bell, said to have
+belonged to the saint. It appears he had repeatedly asked the king to give
+him this bell for his new church, but had always been refused. When one
+day some fishermen brought him a large fish taken off the island of Batz,
+and in its mouth was the coveted bell. It is certainly very ancient in
+form, a kind of square pyramid about four inches wide and nine high, of
+beaten red copper mixed, we were told, with a considerable quantity of
+silver. It is now rung over the heads of the faithful on pardons, as a
+specific against headache and earache--a singular remedy! The cathedral has
+a fine marble tomb of Bishop Visdelou, preacher to Queen Anne of Austria;
+he is represented in a half reclining posture, in his pontifical garments.
+In every part of the cathedral are the little boxes of skulls.
+
+Adjacent is the Ursuline convent, where is preserved a small figure of the
+Virgin in jet; brought from a church in the Iles Sainte Marguerite, taken
+from the Spaniards in the seventeenth century. It is supposed to possess
+miraculous powers, and is sent round to the sick as a specific.
+
+We breakfasted at the little inn (Hotel de France), commanding a pretty
+view of the coast from its windows and garden. The Leon country was
+governed by Viscounts, who boasted, among several manorial rights, the
+"droit de motte," which empowered them, if a vassal (they were "serfs de
+motte") attempted to live out of his demesne, or to enter the service of
+another lord, to bring him back to his "motte," a cord round his neck, and
+inflict upon him corporal punishment. By virtue of the same right, if the
+demesne of a lord was so placed that it had no natural height from which
+to survey its extent, his vassals were made to bring sufficient cart-loads
+of earth to raise a mound or "motte" of the requisite elevation. The other
+privilege was the droit de "bris," equivalent to our flotsum and jetsum,
+so lucrative that a Leon Viscount is recorded to have said, when a noble
+was exhibiting his casket of gems, that he possessed a jewel more precious
+than all they were admiring--alluding to a rock famous for its shipwrecks.
+Duke John the Red, taking advantage of the misdeeds of one of these lords
+of Leon, seized his rich possessions and united them (1276) to the crown.
+The viscounty of Leon fell by alliance, in the fourteenth century, to the
+house of Rohan, in whose favour is was raised in the sixteenth to a
+principality.
+
+We continued our drive to Roscoff, three miles distant, a little sea-port
+town, formerly one of the three great dens of corsairs and smugglers, all
+under the protection of St. Barbe,--the other two being Camaret and Le
+Conquet. Roscoff was the emporium of considerable contraband trade with
+England. Tea, wine, and brandy were brought over in small casks, which the
+smugglers tied together and threw into the sea, when near the coast, and
+landed at night. The whole country round is now one extent of
+kitchen-garden, the light sandy soil, dressed with the goemon, produces an
+incredible quantity of vegetables, onions, cabbages, parsnips, asparagus,
+artichokes, cauliflowers, &c. Of onions, 2,000,000 lbs. are said to be
+sent every year to England alone. The people here wear black caps, those
+of the men are stocking-knit. The gardeners of Roscoff will carry their
+produce above a hundred miles for sale. The chief vegetable consumed by
+the Bretons themselves is the cabbage, of which the quantity raised is
+enormous. The kind grown is mostly the Jersey or cow-cabbage, which grows
+with stalks from five to six feet high, and has large leaves at every
+joint. They use them for their cattle, as well as for their own eating.
+Avenues of cabbages, stacked five or six feet high, are to be seen in most
+Breton markets. Bread or porridge of buckwheat (ble noir) with
+cabbage-soup is the customary diet of the country. The recipe is simple,
+consisting of a cabbage-leaf, over which a little hot water is thrown, and
+a "soupcon" of butter added to give it a flavour. These ingredients
+compose the national soup which always appears at the table d'hote, with
+the inevitable "ragout," _i. e._ harricoed mutton. The little town of
+Roscoff has some historic importance. It was here that John de Montfort
+sailed to England to do homage to King Edward III. for the duchy of
+Brittany, and returned by the same port. Here also the child-princess Mary
+Stuart landed in 1548 to marry the young Dauphin, afterwards Francis II.
+In commemoration of the event, she afterwards caused the little chapel of
+St. Ninian to be built close on the water's edge. It is not more than
+fifty feet long, and has an eastern flamboyant window, with others in the
+side walls. The arches are fast going to decay, the stone altar is also
+sculptured. When we saw it, the interior was filled with bundles of
+broom-branches and poultry. It is strange this little chapel, built by the
+Queen of two Kingdoms, should be suffered to fall to ruin for the lack of
+a trifling outlay.
+
+Here, two hundred years later, Prince Charles Stuart landed after
+Culloden, in the French frigate the 'Heureux,' sent by the French
+Government to facilitate his escape, having eluded, through the chances of
+a fog, the pursuit of the English cruisers; and here he knelt, in the
+chapel of his ancestress, to return thanks for his deliverance.
+
+The church of Roscoff has a curious pierced steeple, like many of those in
+Finistere, and some alabaster bas-reliefs of the fourteenth century, with
+numerous boxes of skulls. A ship rudely sculptured by the porch, and
+another by the east window, show that the fishermen and ship-owners
+contributed to the building of the church. By the shore is a rock of
+grotesque form, and opposite, about three miles from Roscoff, is the
+pretty island of Batz, which derives its name--Breton "batz," a stick--from
+the rod used by St. Pol de Leon to work his miracle.
+
+People were busily employed in boats collecting the goemon, which they
+pile in heaps along the shore. The great curiosity of Roscoff is its
+enormous fig-tree, in the garden of the Capucine convent, said to be two
+centuries old. It is supported by stone pillars, and is, we were informed,
+above 300 feet in circumference.
+
+We returned that evening to Morlaix: the viaduct by moonlight had a most
+picturesque appearance. Next morning we proceeded by rail to the station
+of St. Thegonnec, where nothing in the shape of a vehicle was to be had to
+convey us to the town--nearly a mile and a half distant--but the ricketty
+two-wheeled mail cart. At the little cabaret, which bears the important
+name of Hotel de la Grande Maison, we procured breakfast. The church has
+been restored. It is rich in carvings, spoiled by gilding, the altars and
+canopied pulpit especially. Opposite to the last are two coloured
+"retables." The high altar, with two side altars and two smaller ones
+behind, are gorgeously carved, coloured and gilt, and extend to the roof.
+The painted-glass windows are the gifts of various persons. At the
+entrance of the churchyard is a Renaissance porch, or triumphal arch,
+dated 1581, with a sculpture representing St. Thegonnec, a bullock and car
+by his side. Adjoining, is the ossuary, or reliquary, bearing the date
+1676, also in the same elaborate style, destitute of bones, but having
+below a crypt containing a group of life-sized figures representing the
+Entombment, with this inscription:--
+
+
+    "Tu le vois mort, pecheur, ce Dieu qui t'a fait naitre:
+    Sa mort est ton ouvrage, et devient ton appui.
+    A ce trait de bonte, tu dois au moins vivre pour lui."
+
+
+In the churchyard is also a calvary; the name given to those monumental
+sculptures peculiar to Brittany, consisting of the crucifix, surrounded by
+the chief witnesses of the crucifixion, together with minor groups
+representing passages in the life of our Saviour. This calvary, executed
+in Kersanton stone, is dated 1610; the numerous figures are all in the
+grotesque costume of the period, with ruffs, toquets, trained gowns, and
+scalloped jackets.
+
+[Illustration: 23. Calvary, Guimiliau.]
+
+We took a carriage for Guimiliau, passing on our road to the left, a
+grotto. The church of Guimiliau partly dates from the Renaissance; it has
+a finely sculptured porch, and contains within carvings of great beauty;
+the pulpit, supported on a column, is dated 1677; the organ-loft is
+enriched with splendid bas-reliefs in oak panels,--one represents a
+triumphal march, after Le Brun, the others, King David and St. Cecilia.
+But the grand monumental carving is the magnificent baptistery or
+baptismal font, surmounted by a baldachin or canopy, supported by eight
+twisted columns interlaced with vines, grapes and flowers, with graceful
+little birds pecking the fruit. On the top of the canopy is a dolphin, and
+above, two figures of Fame, trumpet-mouthed, surmounted by a royal crown
+and the letters S. V. This baptistery and the organ-loft are both in the
+style of Louis XIV., and are said to have cost 30,000 francs. In the
+churchyard are a triumphal arch and a reliquary, both inferior to those of
+St. Thegonnec, but the calvary of Guimiliau is one of the most extensive
+in Brittany. It is of the sixteenth century. It consists of a solid
+platform, ascended by a staircase, and raised upon arches; upon it,
+sculptured in Kersanton stone, are the three crosses, the centre one
+beautifully carved with St. John and the Virgin Mary by the side. The four
+Evangelists are placed at each corner, and all the passages in the life of
+Christ are represented by groups of little figures in the costume of the
+sixteenth century. This singular monument bears two different dates, those
+of 1581 and 1588.
+
+Guimiliau is close to the railway, but there is no station there. We
+returned to St. Thegonnec. The peasants along the road were threshing
+their buckwheat on the open ground; women as well as men were at work.
+They threshed in a circle, keeping good time with their strokes, and
+laughing merrily while they flourished their flails,--they appeared a most
+joyous party,--
+
+
+    "Ho! batteux, battons la gerbe,
+    Compagnons, joyeusement."
+
+
+Buckwheat, their "ble noir," is the Breton's chief food, and is cultivated
+to a large extent. With its coral-red stalks and snowy flowers it has a
+very pretty appearance growing, and is the first care of the Breton
+farmer--
+
+
+    "Ah! que la sombre nue aux funestes lueurs,
+      Planant sur la campagne,
+    Epargne les bles-noirs, les bles aux blanches fleurs,
+      Ce pain de la Bretagne."" --STEPHANE HALGAN.
+
+
+This plant, a native of Asia Minor, was evidently, from its French name,
+"sarrazin," introduced into Europe by the Saracens or Moors. We proceeded
+by rail to Brest, passing under the foot of the abrupt rock upon which
+stand the picturesque ruins of the ancient castle of La Roche Maurice and
+the church of La Roche. The rail runs along the banks of the Elorn through
+a narrow wooded valley; the windings of the river are very picturesque,
+and formerly a steamer ran from Landerneau to Brest, affording the
+opportunity of seeing them.
+
+Brest, the first harbour in France, is Breton only in name and locality;
+it is built in an amphitheatre on the slopes of two hills divided by the
+river Penfeld, which forms the port. On the right is the suburb
+Recouvrance, on the left Brest proper. This irregular site often causes
+the second floor of the houses in one street to be on a line with the
+ground floor of another. Brest is clean and well built, and consists of
+three long parallel streets. The principal one, called the Rue de Siam, in
+commemoration of the Siamese Ambassadors sent to Louis XIV., who landed
+here, runs the whole length of the town, ending at the fine iron bridge
+called the Pont Imperiale, the largest swing-bridge ever constructed. You
+descend by a flight of steps from the Rue de Siam to the lower streets.
+Running along the bay, of considerable extent, and well planted with
+trees, is the magnificent promenade called the Cours d'Ajot, from the name
+of the officer of the Engineers by whom it was laid out and planted a
+century back. Well sheltered by its trees and refreshed by the sea
+breezes, it commands a fine view over the new "port de commerce," and the
+whole extent of the harbour of Brest, which is capable of containing 500
+ships of the line, and is, with the exception of those of Rio Janeiro and
+Constantinople, the largest and most beautiful in the world.
+
+Brest harbour has only one entrance, which is to the west, through a
+narrow channel called Le Goulet, less than a mile in width, and cut into
+two by the Mingant rock. In the year 1796 the 'Republican' was lost here.
+Sailing out of the harbour, with a contrary wind and snow, the pilot
+thought he had passed the Mingant rock, when the ship struck, and went
+down with 800 men on board. Brest Castle in the Middle Ages was a place of
+such strength and importance that John IV., who had four times besieged it
+fruitlessly, when it was under the English dominion, was wont to say "Ce
+n'est duc de Bretagne, qui n'est pas sire de Brest." It had been held by
+Sir Robert Knolles against the army of the King of France under Du
+Guesclin, who was obliged to raise the siege. The donjon was built by King
+Richard II. during the War of Succession. The making Brest an important
+naval station was the thought of Richelieu, and the work of Louis XIV.,
+who built the arsenal.
+
+Next day we made an excursion to see the church of Notre Dame-du-Folgoet
+or the Fool of the Wood, celebrated in legendary lore: the tale is so old
+and often told, we have some scruples in repeating it.
+
+Towards the middle of the fourteenth century, there lived in the woods of
+Lesneven, a poor idiot boy, called Salaun (Solomon), better known under
+the name of the Fool of the Wood (Folgoet). He was miserably clad, had no
+bed but the ground; no pillow, but a stone; no roof, but the tree which
+gave him shelter. He went every day to Lesneven to seek his daily bread,
+but he never begged; he uttered the simple words "Ave Maria! Solomon could
+eat bread," and returned with whatever pittance was given him to his tree
+near the fountain, into which he dipped his crusts, and plunged even in
+the depth of winter, for his bath, always repeating the words, "Hail,
+Maria!"  One day a party of marauding soldiers accosted him. In answer to
+their questions, he replied, "I am neither for Blois nor Montfort, I am
+the servant of the Lady Mary." This simple life he led for nearly forty
+years, when at last he fell ill and died, repeating his favourite words
+"Ave Maria." He was found dead near the fountain, and was buried by his
+neighbours. After a time, when the memory of the poor idiot boy had nearly
+passed away, there suddenly sprung up from his grave a white lily with the
+words "Ave Maria" inscribed in letters of gold upon its petals. The news
+of the miracle spread throughout all Brittany, Duke John sent
+commissioners; the grave was opened, and it was found the lily proceeded
+from the mouth of Salaun,--"ceste royale fleur sortait par sa bouche du
+creux de son estomach"--a testimony of the innocence and piety "du plus
+beau mignon de la reine des Cieux." Duke John vowed to erect a church to
+our Lady over the fountain of the poor mendicant, whose faith had been
+thus recognised;(12) and, faithful to his promise, the first stone was
+laid by him in 1366, as a thank-offering for his success the previous year
+at the battle of Auray, which had fixed the crown upon his head. His wife,
+Joan of Navarre, not only made a pilgrimage to the Folgoet in 1396, but
+also contributed to the building of the church. It was completed by John
+V., about 1419. The Queen-Duchess Anne of Brittany went there in
+pilgrimage after the recovery from illness of Louis XIII. Anne of Austria
+founded six masses at the Folgoet, in gratitude for the birth of Louis
+XIV., and several popes granted indulgences to those who made pilgrimages
+to this shrine. This church is one of the finest in Brittany. Its colour
+is sombre; it is the oldest monument in Brittany in which the Kersanton
+stone is employed.  This stone is a volcanic rock called hornblende, of
+very fine grain, with minute specks of mica. There is a large quarry near
+St. Pol de Leon; but it is found principally on the west of the harbour of
+Brest, near a village from which it takes its name. Kersanton stone is of
+a dark-green colour, approaching to bronze, gives out a metallic sound
+when struck, and is easily worked in the quarry, in blocks of from twenty
+to forty feet cube, but hardens on exposure to the air. Time has no
+destructive effect on it; the most delicate, lightest, and most ornamental
+sculptures executed in it remain uninjured, while the hardest granites,
+erected at the same time, are friable and decomposed. The Kersanton stone
+cuts glass like a diamond.
+
+The architecture of the Folgoet is distinguished for the elegance and
+richness of its ornamentation: the softness of the Kersanton stone, when
+fresh taken from the quarry fits it specially for the deeply cut,
+lace-like works of the artists of the flamboyant school, and the church is
+remarkable for the skill with which the productions of the vegetable
+kingdom are represented both within and without. It has no transepts, but
+to the south is a projection formed by the treasure chamber. The modern
+pulpit has a series of medallion bas-reliefs representing the legend of
+Solomon.
+
+The jube, or roodloft, is a perfect lacework of stone. Above three arches,
+decorated with vine-leaves, is an open-worked gallery of pierced
+quatre-foils surpassing in exuberance of ornament any other known.
+
+To the east are five altars, all of Kersanton stone, most delicately
+sculptured--the under-cutting of the foliage most wonderful. They are in
+the shape of tombs or sarcophagi, the form generally adopted for altars in
+the sixteenth century. Round the "autel des anges," richest of them all,
+is a row of eighteen niches, filled in with the figures of angels, holding
+alternately phylacteries and escutcheons; round the top is a cornice of
+thistle-leaves--on the cut stalk of one hangs a dew-drop perfect to nature.
+
+The high altar is decorated with vine-leaves, birds pecking the grapes,
+and the ermine, with its motto "A ma vie," introduced. The altar of the
+rosary has also a cornice of vine-leaves modelled evidently after the high
+altar.
+
+[Illustration: 24. The Fool's Well, Folgoet.]
+
+The fine flamboyant rose window at the east of the church resembles that
+of St. Pol de Leon, and below it is the fountain of Salaun. The spring is
+concealed under the high altar, and flows into a basin without, preserved
+by a kind of Gothic porch sculptured with thistle-leaves and crockets, and
+within it, on a bracket, is a delicately chiseled image of the Virgin.
+Some children round the fountain offered us pins, the use of which we did
+not understand. We afterwards learned that it is the custom in Brittany
+for girls to take a pin from their bodice, and throw it into a sacred
+well, to ascertain, by its manner of sinking, when they would be married.
+If the pin falls head foremost, then there is no present hope of
+matrimony, but if the point goes first, it is a sure sign of being married
+that year.
+
+On the new year, in some parts of Brittany, pieces of bread-and-butter are
+thrown into the fountains, and from the way in which they swim the future
+is foretold. If the buttered side turns under, it forebodes death; if two
+pieces adhere together, it is a sign of sickness; and if the piece floats,
+it is an assurance of long life and happiness.
+
+The veneration for springs and healing wells is of very ancient date, and
+was prohibited by early councils of the Church; but the worship of that
+element from which suffering humanity seeks for relief in all its ailments
+has passed through succeeding creeds, and that which was held sacred a
+thousand years back is still the object of reverence and affection.
+
+Nor is the sculpture outside the church less remarkable than the interior.
+The west door, now fallen to decay, has an arch with double entrance
+separated by a column containing a benitier. A wreath of curled leaves
+runs round the arch, and on a bracket of thistle-leaves formerly stood a
+statue of John V.
+
+The north side has little ornament. The great richness is in the south,
+where is the fine porch of Bishop Alain de la Rue, who consecrated the
+building, and more splendid still, is, at the angle formed by the
+projecting sacristy facing the west, the Porch of the Apostles. The twelve
+Apostles are ranged on each side, under rich canopies; the whole porch one
+mass of floral decoration, vine-leaves and mallows, interspersed with
+dragons, birds, and insects. On the right of the porch is a crouching
+figure with a label inscribed: "Bn soiez venz,"--"Bien soiez venuz" or
+"Soyez les bien venus"--an invitation to the faithful to enter into the
+church. On the lintel of the two doors are ermines passant, and the motto
+of the Dukes of Brittany, "A ma vie," and towards the south are the
+remains of a whole cornice of ermines, running through the rings of a long
+scroll inscribed with "A ma vie." This motto was first taken by Duke John
+IV. (who instituted the order of the Ermine) to imply that he had
+conquered Brittany, and would maintain it, even at the cost of his life,
+"a ma vie."(13)
+
+The collar consisted of a double chain, in each of which were four
+ermines, and two more hung suspended from two chains, surmounted by
+coronets. The motto "A ma vie" was placed round each of these ten ermines.
+The Pere Lobineau quotes a history of Duke John, in which the order is
+thus spoken of:--
+
+
+    "Lors fit mander tous les Prelats,
+    Abbes et Clercs de tous Estats,
+    Barons, Chevaliers, Escuyers,
+    Qui tous portoient nouveaux Colliers
+    De moult bel port et belle guise;
+    Et etoit nouvelle Devise
+    De deux Rolets brunis et beaux,
+    Couples ensemble de deux fermeaux;
+    Et au dessus etoit l'Ermine
+    En figure et en couleur fine,
+    En deux Cedules avoit escript
+    _A ma vie_, comme j'ai dit;
+    L'un mot est blanc, l'autre noir,
+    Il est certain, tien, pour le voir."
+
+
+In the churchyard is a cross erected by Cardinal de Coetivy (died 1474),
+who is represented kneeling at the foot; it is said to be the work of
+Michel Colomb, sculptor of the celebrated monument raised by Queen Anne of
+Brittany to her parents, now in the Cathedral at Nantes. Next day, we went
+to Le Conquet, returning by St. Mathieu. We crossed the swing-bridge to
+the suburb Recouvrance, so called from the chapel of our Lady, to whom
+shipwrecked mariners addressed their petitions to recover (recouvrir)
+their property. On our left we saw the islet rock of Bertheaume, about 200
+feet high, distant from the coast 150. Until lately, the communication
+with the mainland was by means of a kind of cradle drawn on two cables,
+about nine metres in circumference.
+
+Le Conquet(14) is a little seaport built on the slope of a steep hill.
+Formerly it was of some importance, and a great resort of pirates. Sir
+Walter Manny took the town for the Countess of Montfort, during the war of
+the two Jeannes, and it was attacked by the fleets of Henry VIII. and his
+daughter Mary. Opposite is a beautiful beach, called the Blancs Sablons,
+accessible at low water by walking across the harbour. Here is the point
+of communication with the island of Ouessant, about seventeen miles
+distant, by means of a steamer, weather permitting, as the Chenal du Four,
+which separates this group of islands from the continent, is covered with
+rocks and is very dangerous in rough weather. Its men are all seamen or
+fishermen, the women perform the agricultural labour. They bring in their
+produce to Brest at the monthly fairs, and are not so cut off from the
+world as Gresset describes them:--
+
+
+    "Sous un ciel toujours rigoureux
+    Au sein des flots impetueux,
+    Non loin de l'Armorique plage
+    Habitacle marecageux,
+    Moitie peuple, moitie sauvage,
+    Dont les habitants malheureux
+    Separes du reste du monde,
+    Semblent ne connoitre l'onde
+    Et n'etre connus que des cieux."
+                    GRESSET.--_Careme impromptu._
+
+
+[Illustration: 25. Abbey of St. Mathieu.]
+
+We now reached the Abbey of St. Mathieu, situated on the extreme point of
+Brittany and of France, on the top of a promontory, well called Finistere.
+Here in the sixth century was built a monastery in honour of St. Matthew
+the Evangelist, whose head had been stolen in Egypt by some Breton
+navigators, and been brought to land at this point, which long bore the
+name of "St. Mathieu de fin de terre" (Finistere). In the twelfth century
+the monastery was converted into a Benedictine abbey, which is a beautiful
+example of the Early English style. The formidable rocks at its feet are
+called Les Moines. The monks of St. Mathieu kept a beacon for the safety
+of mariners on these dangerous shores. The modern lighthouse quite masks
+the sight of the abbey, and is a great disfigurement to the view, which,
+in other respects, is most grand; the imposing granite ruins of the abbey
+church on the very edge of these weather-beaten cliffs, worn and torn by
+the ocean with its unwearied waves; on the right, the reefs of the Passage
+du Four, which appear to unite the islands of Ouessant and its satellites
+to St. Mathieu; on the left the elongated point of the Bec du Raz, which
+no one, according to the Bretons, ever passed without grief and suffering.
+In sight of Saint Mathieu, the English in 1504, with eighty ships,
+attacked Herve de Porzmoguer, a Breton captain, with only twenty. His own
+ship the 'Cordeliere,' which had been built and fitted out by Anne of
+Bretagne, at her own expense, took fire; it held 1200 troops besides the
+ship's company. Porzmoguer grappled the 'Cordeliere' to the ship of the
+English admiral, the 'Great Harry;' and both vessels, driven by the
+north-west wind to the entrance of the Goulet, were burned together, and
+above 2000 men perished in the two ships. Porzmoguer mounted the mast
+followed by the raging flames, and cast himself from the main-top, in full
+armour, into the sea.
+
+In 1597, the fleet sent by Philip II. to take possession of Brittany for
+Spain was dispersed in a storm off Point St. Mathieu, and, out of a
+hundred and twenty ships, scarcely one remained.
+
+On our way home, we passed a little town called La Trinite, from three
+springs all issuing from the same fountain, at which washerwomen with
+their wooden bats were hard at work, beating the clothes to rags on the
+stones.
+
+[Illustration: 26. Peasant Girl of Ouessant.]
+
+Next day was the monthly fair at Brest, which brought in many of the
+country people in their picturesque costumes. Most conspicuous among them
+were the peasants of Ouessant, last type of the Celtic women, in their
+singularly Italian-looking head-dress, their hair streaming over their
+shoulders; and the Plougastel men, in red caps, with coats and trowsers of
+white flannel.
+
+Most of the market-women were furnished with enormous umbrellas, red,
+blue, and green. In this rainy province, they are indispensable, and the
+acquisition of an umbrella is a great object of ambition to the Breton
+peasant.
+
+We left Brest by the steamer for Pont Launay and Chateaulin, a four hours'
+sail in the harbour of Brest. On the right we passed the Point des
+Espagnols, where Frobisher, sent by Queen Elizabeth to the assistance of
+Henry IV., received his death wound. Leaving on our left Plougastel, where
+we were unable to visit the celebrated calvary, we passed near the "Anse
+du Fret," whence Joan of Navarre, then widow of Duke John IV., sailed to
+England to marry Henry of Lancaster, 1403. Henry, when Earl of Derby, had
+visited Nantes to ask the assistance of his uncle in returning to England,
+and Joan had favoured his expedition, but Duke John died the same year
+(1399). When Queen Dowager of England, she saw the children of her two
+husbands arrayed against each other, and her son Arthur, who had been
+invested by King Henry IV. with the Earldom of Richmond, made prisoner at
+Agincourt by his half-brother King Henry V., who confined him in the
+Tower, and afterwards in Fotheringay Castle. Joan received hard treatment
+from her stepson. Accused of being a sorceress--a reputation she inherited
+from her father, Charles the Bad of Navarre--Henry caused her to be
+confined in Leeds and Pevensey castles, and deprived her of her property.
+It was only on his approaching death that he restored her to liberty. She
+retired to Havering Bower in Essex, where her grandson, the unfortunate
+Gilles de Bretagne, was reared and educated with Henry VI. She died in
+1437, and the memory of "Joan the witch queen" was long held in awe by the
+people of Havering Bower.
+
+[Illustration: 27. Peasant Girl, Chateaulin.]
+
+On the left is the hamlet of Kersanton, which gives its name to the stone
+so called. At the entrance of the Aulne,(15) to the right, we passed the
+ruins of the abbey of Landevenec, the most ancient monastic establishment
+in Brittany. At Pont Launay an omnibus took us to the railway station at
+Chateaulin, celebrated for its slate quarries, a drive of three quarters
+of an hour. From here we proceeded by rail to Quimper, capital of
+Cornouaille. The district of Cornouaille--Cornu-Galliae, expressing its
+position at the horn or extremity of France--is most varied in character.
+The part on the north is enclosed between the two chains of mountains,
+which, running nearly parallel with each other, traverse the department of
+Finistere, the Mene-Arre, and the Montagnes Noires. A single chain passes
+through the Cotes-du-Nord, and forks off, at the edge of the department,
+near Callac, whence the northern range, the Mene-Arre, runs westwards to
+Faou harbour; while the Montagnes Noires incline to the south-west, and
+reach the sea near Crozon. The country between these chains is dreary and
+bare--barren plains and black mountains; to the south it is cultivated and
+productive. The stormy rock-bound coast is wild and desolate. One-third of
+the department consists of landes, marshes, and sandy shores (_greves_).
+The people are the Irish of Brittany. Their wants are restricted to a tub
+of salted pork and a provision of cider, with rye, or black corn, to make
+their "galette." They are simple in their manners, kind to the poor, and
+enduring of suffering. Respect for the misfortunes of others, and patience
+under their own, is one of the Breton characteristics.
+
+In the days of Conan Meriadec there lived a holy man, called Corentin, who
+retired to a solitude for prayer and meditation, near a fountain in a
+forest. Every morning a little fish came to him from the fountain; he cut
+a piece off it for his daily pittance and threw it again into the water,
+and in an instant the fish became whole. The miracle was repeated every
+morning. One day King Gradlon, who held his court at "Kemper," was in the
+forest near the hermitage of St. Corentin, with some of his suite, and
+asked him if he could give him something to eat. The saint immediately ran
+to his fountain and called his little fish, cut off a piece, which he gave
+to the maitre d'hotel to prepare for the king and his attendants. The chef
+laughed when he took the slice; but, to the surprise of everybody, the
+fish multiplied so as to completely satisfy the hunger of the king and his
+party. Gradlon threw himself on his knees at the feet of St. Corentin, and
+gave him the forest, with a "maison de plaisance," which St. Corentin
+converted into a monastery. The king afterwards erected Quimper into a
+bishopric, to which he nominated St. Corentin:--
+
+
+    "Voici dans le fond la ville de Kemper,
+    Asise au confluent de l'Oded et du Ster.
+    Comme sa cathedrale, aux deux tours dentelees,
+    S'eleve noblement du milieu des vallees,
+    O perle de l'Oded, fille du roi Grallon,
+    Qui de saint Corentin portes aussi le nom,
+    Rejouis-toi, Kemper, dans tes vielles murailles!
+    Vois avec quelle ardeur, o reine de Cornouailles,
+    Tes fils de tous les points de l'antique eveche,
+    Pecheurs et montagnards, viennent a ton marche!
+    Cornouillais! en passant pres de sa basilique,
+    Du bon saint Corentin adorez la relique.
+    Que tous ceux d'Elliant et des memes chemins
+    Boivent a sa fontaine et s'y lavent les mains;
+    Non pas les Leonards, eux de qui les ancetres,
+    Voici quelque mille ans, hommes jaloux et traitres,
+    Volerent le poisson dont notre Corentin
+    Coupait pour se nourrir un pen chaque matin,
+    Et qui chaque matin, o pieuse merveille!
+    Nageait dans sa fontaine aussi frais que la veille:
+    Eh bien! les Leonards volerent ce poisson,
+    Mais Kemper n'oublie jamais leur trahison;
+    Sans jouir de leur crime, ils en portent la peine,
+    Et toujours le poisson nage dans la fontaine."
+                    _Les Bretons_--BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Quimper, or Quimper-Corentin, is prettily situated at the junction of the
+rivers Odet and Stheire; its Breton name, Kemper, signifying confluence.
+It was long called Kemper-Odet. On the opposite side of the river the
+hills, consisting of a mass of rocks, covered with trees, rise to some
+height, and are ascended by well-kept walks. The river runs straight
+through the town, like a canal, edged by stone quays and crossed by iron
+bridges, with avenues of trees on each side. Trout can be seen in the
+sparkling stream; and we watched a boy with a hook at the end of a reel of
+black silk, hanging over the bridge, with a piece of kneaded bread for
+bait. With this simple tackle he contrived to hook a trout of tolerable
+size, and let it run out the length of his silk line till he had tired it
+out and landed it. The scenery of the river below Quimper, flowing through
+a bed of granite blocks, is, we were told, lovely, but we had no time to
+visit it further down. The view from the top of the wood-covered heights
+on the opposite side is very extensive, looking down upon the town, with
+its cathedral towers rising above, the promenade, and the course of the
+river. At the end of the town there is a manufactory of coarse pottery;
+but formerly it produced ware of a finer quality.
+
+The beautiful cathedral is the largest of the four episcopal churches of
+Lower Brittany (Vannes, St. Pol, Quimper, and Treguier), and was
+principally built in the fifteenth century. On the platform over the
+finely sculptured porch, rich in foliage like the Folgoet, placed between
+the two towers, is the equestrian statue of King Gradlon, to whom is
+attributed the introduction of the vine into Brittany. The statue was
+decapitated in 1793, but restored ten years back. On St. Cecilia's day
+companies of musicians used to mount on the platform. While they sang a
+hymn in praise of King Gradlon, one of the choristers, provided with a
+flagon of wine, a napkin, and golden hanap, mounted on the crupper of King
+Gradlon's horse, poured out a cup of wine, which he offered ceremoniously
+to the lips of the statue and then drank himself, carefully wiped with his
+napkin the moustachios of the king, placed a branch of laurel in his hand,
+and then threw down the hanap in the midst of the crowd below, in honour
+of the first planter of the grape in Brittany. To whoever caught the cup
+before it fell, and presented it uninjured to the Chapter, was adjudged a
+prize of two hundred crowns.
+
+The two spires of the cathedral are modern, and were built by an annual
+subscription of a sou for five years, called the "sou du St. Corentin:"
+more than 600_l._ was thus raised. They have only been lately finished.
+
+[Illustration: 28. Beggar. Quimper.]
+
+The men about Quimper all wear the national costume--enormous bragou-bras,
+or breeches of a kind of white sail-cloth, a broad-brimmed felt hat, long
+hair, falling over the shoulders, wooden shoes, and a broad belt with
+metal buckle. Their woollen jacket and waistcoat are edged with gay
+colours, and have sometimes the itinerant tailor's name and the date of
+the making of the garment, embroidered in wool upon the breast. On gala
+days brown or blue cloth bragous are worn, tied with coloured ribbons at
+the knees, black leather gaiters with buttons, and the sabots are replaced
+by leather shoes and costly silver buckles. The national costume is more
+preserved in Cornouaille than in the other parts of Brittany.  The pen bas
+or cudgel, with a large knob, like the Irish shillelah, is always ready at
+hand:--
+
+
+    "Comme une conque immense ouverte au bord des eaux,
+    En Cornouaille est un port, il y vient cent bateaux.
+    Un sable jaune et fin couvre ses cotes plates,
+    Mais un infect amas de rogues, de morgates,
+    D'ossements de poissons sur le rivage epars,
+    La saumure qui filtre entre ses deux remparts,
+    Soulevent tous les sens quand cette odeur saline
+    Arrive au voyageur qui tourne la colline,
+    Laissant derriere lui les taillis de Melven,
+    La belle lande d'or qui parfume Aven,
+    Et ces mouvants aspects de plaines, de montagnes
+    Que deroulent sans fin nos sauvages campagnes.
+    Plus de batteurs de seigle ici, plus de faucheurs,
+    Mais des canots charges de mousses, de pecheurs,
+    Partant et revenant avec chaque maree,
+    Et sur les quais du pont versant a leur rentree,
+    Des sardines en tas, des congres, des merlus,
+    Des homards cuirasses, de gros crabes velus;
+    Et, du fond des paniers, mille genres enormes,
+    De toutes les couleurs et de toutes les formes,
+    Avec leur oeil vitreux et leur museau beant,
+    Tous enfants monstrueux du grand monstre Ocean.
+    Aussitot le pressier les seche, les empile,
+    Et quand leur grasse chair a degorge son huile,
+    De Nantes a Morlaix cherchant les acheteurs,
+    On voit bondir sur mer les hardis caboteurs.""
+                    _Les Bretons_--BRIZEUX.
+
+
+[Illustration: 29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats.]
+
+Thus the Breton poet describes Concarneau, a little fortified town, which
+has been called the St. Malo of Cornouaille, and is celebrated for its
+sardine fishery. The road lay through a wooded country, with steep hills
+and valleys, intersected by streams: on the right a view of the Bay of La
+Foret, where extensive oyster-culture is going on. After a tedious journey
+with miserable horses, we reached Concarneau at nine, a distance of little
+more than thirteen miles, having set off a few minutes after four.
+Concarneau proper is on a rocky island, surrounded by fortifications, with
+eight or nine towers and thick walls, and communicating with the mainland
+by means of a drawbridge. This is called the "Ville Close." It consists of
+only one street. When Duke John IV. embarked from here for England, he
+left Sir Robert Knollys governor of the duchy. The constable Du Guesclin,
+after the surrender of Hennebont and Quimperle, took Concarneau by storm
+and slew all the English garrison, except the captain, who received
+quarter.
+
+Opposite the island is the faubourg Sainte Croix, which is more populous
+than the Ville Close, and where all the business of the place is carried
+on. The sardine fishery, from June to November, occupies two-thirds of the
+population. From three to four hundred vessels are employed with five men
+to each boat. Calm weather is most favourable for fishing. The sardines
+are taken in large seine nets, one side floating with corks on the surface
+of the water, the other falling vertically. The sardines, attracted by the
+bait, try to force themselves through the meshes of the net, and are
+caught by their gills. The bait used is called "rogue:" the best is
+composed of the roe of the cod-fish, pounded and steeped in salt water for
+several days; sometimes the roe and flesh of the mackerel is used. Rogue
+is made in Norway and Denmark, but principally at Drontheim, and is very
+expensive, costing about sixpence the lb.; hence an inferior bait is
+substituted, composed of shrimps and other small crustacea, with fish
+salted, and the heads of anchovies, all pounded and putrified together.
+But this kind of decomposed bait is forbidden by the fishery laws. The
+employment of it accounts for the rareness of good sardines, as the
+remaining of such a substance in the body of the animal cannot fail of
+corrupting it. It is a pretty sight to behold the little fleet employed in
+the sardine fishery return in the evening, laden with the results of the
+day's work. The fish, when landed, are counted out into baskets, shaken in
+the water, and taken up to one of the curing-houses: of these there are
+about sixty in Concarneau. In the first shed we saw above fifty women
+employed in taking off their heads--"deteter" it is called--an operation
+they effect with great dexterity. With one cut at the back of the neck the
+head is separated and the fish "eventre" at the same time.
+
+The sardines are next placed in little wire trays, with divisions like a
+double gridiron, and fried or dipped in boiling oil, an operation
+principally performed by the women of Pont l'Abbe, who are supposed, like
+the Germans of our baking and sugar-refining houses, to be peculiarly
+constituted to resist heat. The gridirons are then hung up to drain. The
+sardines are next packed in tin boxes, cold oil poured over them, and the
+boxes soldered down. From 800 to 900 boxes are placed in a boiler and
+boiled for half an hour to test the boxes, and those which leak are put
+aside. They are of English tin, and the making of them is the winter's
+occupation. Finally, the boxes are stamped with the name of the
+establishment, and packed in deal cases for exportation. The sardine is a
+very delicate fish, and easily decays. It is only taken out of the net
+with a rake (_raquette_); in summer, numbers are spoiled from being heaped
+in the boats, and at whatever hour the boats come in the fish go through
+the whole process of curing, as they will not keep till the next day.
+Concarneau exports from 15,000 to 20,000 barrels of sardines annually.
+Only a part are "anchoitee," that is, preserved like the anchovies of the
+Mediterranean, the others are salted in casks; and quantities, only
+slightly salted, are packed in baskets, to be sent to the provincial
+markets. It is estimated that twelve hundred million fish have been caught
+this year. The sardine fishery extends along the whole western coast of
+Brittany from Douarnenez to the Loire.
+
+One of the curiosities of Concarneau is its aquarium, under the direction
+of M. Guillon. It consists of six cisterns, made by the blasting of the
+solid rock, and comprising an area of large extent, within a walled
+enclosure. In these cisterns the water is renewed at each turn of the tide
+through narrow openings in the wall. Three of these reservoirs are
+reserved for fish, the others for crustacea--lobsters and langoustes. Of
+these they keep from 10,000 to 15,000 at a time, and send them off daily,
+when fattened, to Paris and the principal markets of France. It was
+curious to see the dread shown by the common lobster to the langouste.
+They all were adhering to the sides of the reservoirs as if afraid to
+encounter their more powerful companions. Quantities of turbot, also
+reared for sale, were in one of the cisterns, darting with the greatest
+rapidity in the water when the keeper threw in pieces of sardines for them
+to eat. At the end of these cisterns is a building, with every arrangement
+for the culture of fishes--rows of little troughs, and other vessels, to
+contain them. Many of the fish are so tame, they came immediately to the
+keeper on his making a noise in the water with his fingers. Here are fish
+of every description, and naturalists have every facility of studying
+their habits. Among others, we saw the graceful little sea-horse or
+hippocampus, a native of the seas of Brittany as well as of the
+Mediterranean.
+
+[Illustration: 30. Dolmen. Tregunc.]
+
+From Concarneau to Quimperle is a distance of above eighteen miles. The
+road runs near the sea, over a large tract of land covered with furze
+(ajonc), which, in Brittany, grows from five to six feet high, forming a
+solid impenetrable mass. Huge blocks of granite are scattered about in
+every direction, jutting out from among the furze--menhirs, cromlechs, and
+dolmens--a perfect wilderness of Celtic remains. We drove over an extent of
+several miles of furze-covered hills and heathy land. Before we reached
+the village of Tregunc we stopped to see a large dolmen on the side of the
+road, and further to the right a rocking-stone, twelve feet long and nine
+feet thick, standing about fifteen feet from the ground, the second
+largest in Brittany. It is poised by a little projection, like an inverted
+cone, upon another rock lying half-buried in the ground. The upper block
+can easily be set in motion by the hand. It is called by the country
+people "La pierre aux maris trompes," and was formerly consulted by
+husbands to test the fidelity of their wives. Even now the partner of a
+faithless wife is said to be incapable of giving to the stone the rocking
+motion it so easily receives from another.
+
+[Illustration: 31. Rocking Stone. Tregunc.]
+
+On the left we passed the majestic ruins of the castle of Rustephan,
+_i. e._ Run, mound, of Stephen, having been built by Stephen Count of
+Penthievre at the beginning of the twelfth century. It belonged in the
+thirteenth to Blanche of Castile, the mother of St. Louis. The present
+edifice dates from the fifteenth. One of the sides remaining has a
+cylindrical tower with pinnacled doorway, and the windows have stone
+mullions.
+
+[Illustration: 32. Chateau of Rustephan.]
+
+Pursuing our road through blocks of granite, we descended into the valley
+of Pontaven, the town of millers, according to the old saying--
+
+
+    "Pont Aven, ville de renom;
+    Quatorze moulins, deux maisons;"
+
+
+a little port built upon rocks, at the foot of two elevated mountains,
+over which are scattered masses of granite boulders, obstructing the
+course of the river which bounds over them. The banks are lined with woody
+slopes; wooden bridges cross the river at intervals; mills are established
+on the ledges of the rocks on its sides; and the noise of the mills, with
+that of the sparkling river tumbling through the rocks in waterfalls, keep
+up a perpetual din. Pontaven is celebrated for the quantity of its salmon:
+so much is taken, that it used to be said that the millers fattened their
+pigs upon this fish, which was literally true, as they took the small
+salmon, called glesils, in nets (_poches_) for that purpose. Salmon now is
+very dear. At the mouth of the Pontaven river was a castle, whose
+proprietor had the privilege of firing upon the fishing-boats which
+returned up the river without giving to the castellan their finest fish,
+which his steward went down to select. Pontaven is seven and a half miles
+from Bannalec, the nearest railway station. After remaining a few hours we
+drove on to Quimperle--in Breton, Kemper (confluence) Elle--so called,
+because it is at the confluence of two rivers, the Elle and Isole:--
+
+
+    "Vous reverrai-je encore, o fleuve de l'Elle,
+    Vous, Izole, ou mon coeur est toujours rappelle!
+    Les eaux sombres de l'Elle, claire ceux de l'Izole;
+    De ces bords enchantes je dirais chaque saule."
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Quimperle is a great resort for fishing, the Quimperle salmon and trout
+being renowned throughout Brittany, and even at Paris. This town is
+beautifully situated, surrounded by high hills, in a valley, watered by
+these bright rivers, the hills covered with gardens, orchards, the
+Ursuline, Capucine, and other convents, and crowned by the steeples of the
+Gothic church of St. Michael. Its principal building is the church of St.
+Croix, formerly that of a Benedictine abbey, celebrated for its riches.
+The island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer then belonged to it. It is a most singular
+edifice, built in the eleventh century, after the model of the church of
+the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. In 1862 it fell down, but is at present
+in course of restoration, after its original plan. The old abbey buildings
+are now occupied by the Prefecture. We were given permission to pass
+through the convent garden--the workmen and building materials having
+blocked up the other entrances--to see the crypt in which is the tomb of
+Saint Gurloes, first abbot of Quimperle. His effigy, with crosier in hand,
+his feet resting on a dragon, lies upon a monument, about three feet high,
+with an opening in the lower part. The saint--Saint Urlose, as the Bretons
+call him--is invoked principally for the gout, and persons so afflicted
+crawl through the hole under the tomb, where, suspended by chains, is an
+iron hook. They twist a lock of their hair round this hook, and tear it
+off with violence, hoping to propitiate the saint by this
+mortification--evidently a remnant of heathen times, when hair was
+sacrificed to deities or to the memory of departed friends.
+
+At Quimperle was buried John de Montfort, rival of Charles of Blois for
+the ducal crown. Sent to Paris under a safe-conduct by the Dauphin John,
+Philip of Valois had him shut up in the Louvre, whence he escaped, after a
+captivity of three years, to England. Edward III. espoused his cause and
+granted him some troops. After an unsuccessful attack upon Quimper, De
+Montfort died (1345) at Hennebont, and was buried in the church of the
+Dominicans at Quimperle. He appointed Edward III. guardian of his son, and
+Edward immediately occupied Quimperle and caused money to be struck in his
+name. Lord Lewis of Spain, on the side of Charles of Blois, made a descent
+upon Quimperle at the head of 6000 men, and pillaged the whole country. On
+the news reaching Sir Walter Manny, he hastened to meet the enemy, took
+possession of their fleet, and made such carnage of the soldiers, that
+they were all killed or taken prisoners, and Lewis of Spain escaped with
+difficulty. The country about Quimperle is beautiful--wood and water in
+every direction. The department of Finistere is traversed by three hundred
+streams, and has an extent of nearly four hundred miles of coast. We were
+advised to go and see the rood-screen of the chapel of Rosgrand, but had
+no time. We visited the ruins of the church of St. Columban. Above a
+round-arched doorway is a beautiful flamboyant window, between two
+canopied niches. We next walked up to the Place near St. Michel, where a
+cattle-market was being held. The Breton peasants, with their long shaggy
+uncombed hair hanging round their shoulders--they comb and wash only on
+fete days--their dirty canvas bragou bras, patched coats, and sabots with
+tufts of straw crammed in, looked more dirty than it is possible to
+imagine. Cleanliness is the last of the Breton virtues. The market and the
+fair are the two great events of the country, and people flock from great
+distances to sell their merchandise. But of all extraordinary animals is
+the Breton pig, as tall as a donkey; a lean, long-necked, ragged, bristly,
+savage-looking beast, as ill kept as its master, and it runs like a
+greyhound when approached. The Breton cow is very small, small as the
+Kerry cows of Ireland, very pretty and very productive. The Breton butter
+is proverbially good, and is given out most liberally, in lumps as big as
+loaves, at the tables-d'hote. It is brought to market in jars which the
+women carry upon their heads. It is to the Queen-Duchess that Brittany,
+and indeed all France, owes the privilege of eating butter in Lent.  It
+was forbidden as animal food by the laws of the Church, and oil, a
+vegetable production, ordered as a substitute.  In 1491, Anne solicited of
+Rome, for herself and household, permission to eat butter on fast-days,
+alleging, as a plea, that Brittany did not produce oil. Encouraged by this
+favour, Brittany obtained the same indulgence, and it was acquired
+successively by the other provinces of France; but all are originally
+indebted for the privilege to the good Queen-Duchess Anne.
+
+Next day, leaving the department of Finistere, we entered that of
+Morbihan, and went by rail to Lorient on the river Scorff, here joined by
+the Blavet. It was formerly the seat of the French East India Company; it
+is now one of the five military ports of France and the residence of a
+maritime Prefect. In the Place Bisson is the statue of a young officer of
+the French navy, a native of Guemene-sur-Scorff (Morbihan). When
+commanding, in 1827, a brig in the Greek Archipelago, he was attacked by
+two pirate vessels. Nine out of his fifteen men were killed and himself
+wounded; the enemy crowded on the deck. Desiring the survivors of his crew
+to jump overboard, "Now," cried he to the pilot, "is the moment for
+revenge!" and, setting fire to the powder-magazine, he blew up himself,
+his ship, and the pirates who had boarded her. Next morning the bodies of
+seventy Greeks lay on the sea-shore, showing the success of his
+self-devotion. The pilot, who, with four sailors, was saved, received the
+decoration of the Legion of Honour. On the pedestal of Bisson's statue is
+an inscription, concluding with these words: "Mort en heros, pour son roi
+et sa patrie, ses amis le pleurent, la France le regrette, et ses freres
+d'armes envient son sort."
+
+From here we proceeded to Hennebont (Breton, "old bridge"), famous, in the
+War of Succession, for its heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, during the
+captivity of her husband, Jean de Montfort, who had been taken prisoner at
+Nantes and carried off to Paris. Jeanne, who, as Froissart says, had the
+courage of a man and the heart of a lion, placed herself at the head of
+his party. Like another Maria Theresa, she presented herself before the
+Breton lords, with her infant son in her arms, and received their oaths of
+allegiance. She then joined in the defence of Hennebont, which was
+invested by Charles of Blois. Clothed in armour and mounted on a
+war-horse, she galloped up and down the streets, encouraging the
+inhabitants. She ordered the ladies of her suite and other women of the
+place to cut short their "keytels," carry the stones to the ramparts, and
+transport pots of quick-lime to throw down upon the enemy. At the head of
+300 horsemen, the Countess, who rode better than any squire, sallied out
+of the town, attacked and burnt the enemy's camp, retreated to Auray, and,
+a few days after, re-entered Hennebont, with banners flying and trumpets
+sounding. But the blockade was so close that provisions were wanting, and
+the garrison compelled her to agree to a capitulation, unless within three
+days assistance arrived from England. The time was on the point of
+expiring, and a herald had approached the gate of the city to receive the
+keys in the name of Charles of Blois, when the Countess, from her window,
+perceived at sunrise the English fleet entering the port in full sail. She
+exclaimed, "We are saved!" The siege was raised, and the Countess, says
+Froissart, kissed Sir Walter Manny and all his companions, one after the
+other, two or three times, like a noble and valiant dame. "Better,"
+observed Charles, when he heard the news, "that Jeanne, instead of her
+lord, had been shut up in the Louvre." He left the carrying on of the
+siege to Lewis of Spain, and proceeded to Vannes and Auray. Some fragments
+of walls are all that remain of Jeanne de Montfort's castle, which was
+situated on a height on the other side of the river in the "Vieille
+ville." The town on the left bank of the Blavet is called the "Ville
+neuve" and the "Ville close," being surrounded by walls. Large vessels
+ascend the Blavet to Hennebont. It is traversed by a light and elegant
+railway viaduct of twelve arches. We saw on the quay a quantity of red
+iron-ore from Bilbao.
+
+Hennebont is a very pretty town; the principal building is the church of
+Notre Dame-de-Paradis, of the sixteenth century, with a fine square stone
+tower, surmounted by a beautiful spire, and a tall porch, forming one side
+of the tower. This handsome church has lately been restored. The scenery
+about the Blavet is very pretty--the banks wooded, and fertile fields. We
+took a boat and rowed up the river, passing the ruined Abbaye de la Joie,
+where a hideous chateau has been built. This was a Cistercian convent,
+founded in the thirteenth century by Blanche of Navarre, wife of Duke John
+I. (_le Roux_). The chapel of Notre Dame-de-Paradis formerly belonged to
+the convent; but when the parish church was demolished, the Abbey ceded
+this chapel to the town, reserving the privilege of a separate seat for
+the Abbess, who, on the Sunday after St. John's day, had her crosier
+carried before her in state by one of her vassals at high mass and
+vespers.
+
+From Hennebont we went by rail to Auray, and established ourselves for
+some time in the Pavillon d'en Haut, a most comfortable hotel. Auray is
+situated on the slope of a hill, the streets narrow and steep.
+
+Our first drive was to Ste. Anne d'Auray, one of the most famous places of
+pilgrimage in Brittany, on account of its miraculous well and church. It
+has been called the Mecca of Brittany. Here, according to the legend in
+the seventeenth century, Ste. Anne appeared to a countryman, and directed
+him to dig in a certain field, where he would find her image, and to build
+a chapel there. Guided by a miraculous light, Nicolazic discovered the
+statue, and erected a chapel on the site.
+
+[Illustration: 33. Scala Sancta. Ste. Anne d'Auray.]
+
+The spring where Ste. Anne first appeared is now enclosed in a large basin
+of cut stone. Near it is the church, in course of reconstruction. It
+stands in a court surrounded by covered galleries for the shelter of the
+pilgrims. Two flights of steps, called the Scala Sancta (after that of St.
+John Lateran), lead to a platform over the three entrance gates, upon
+which is an altar surmounted by a cupola, where mass can be heard by
+20,000 persons. The steps are ascended by the pilgrims barefooted, as they
+do at Rome. The fete of Ste. Anne is celebrated on the 26th of July, when
+pilgrims arrive from all parts of Brittany to visit the miraculous statue,
+to ascend the holy staircase, and to drink or wash in the sacred fountain.
+It was a fete day when we visited Ste. Anne. There was a large assemblage
+of people, and booths were erected round the court, where were sold
+rosaries and the wire brooches, with scarlet and blue tufts of worsted,
+called _epinglettes_, worn by the Bretons in their hats as a token of
+their having made a pilgrimage. We saw exhibited the photograph of a young
+lady, said to have lately recovered from paralysis after bathing in the
+holy well. So world-wide is the fame of Ste. Anne d'Auray that a traveller
+mentions having seen at her shrine an embroidered altar-cloth of Irish
+damask, with "Irlande: Reconnaissance a Sainte Anne, 1850," woven into the
+pattern. The convent, with its enclosure, the Scala Sancta, fountain, and
+miraculous bush, all date from the seventeenth century. There is a railway
+station for Ste. Anne, within two miles of the church.
+
+Returning to Auray, we went to the Chartreuse, which owes its origin to
+the chapel of Saint Michel-du-Champ founded (1382) by John de Montfort,
+afterwards Duke John IV., on the spot where, in 1364, he gained the battle
+of Auray, which obtained for him the duchy of Brittany. The chapel is
+close to the railway station. In the fifteenth century it was given to the
+Chartreux, and became a monastery of the order which existed until the
+Revolution. The present church was built at the end of the reign of Louis
+XV.
+
+The battle was fought on the marshy plain by the side of the muddy river
+Alree. It is fully described by Froissart. In the two armies were
+assembled all the chivalry of England, France and Brittany. The
+Breton-English were commanded by Sir John Chandos; the French, by Du
+Guesclin; with de Montfort were also Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh
+Calverley and Olivier de Clisson; with Charles of Blois, Du Guesclin, the
+Comte d'Auxerre, the Viscomtes of Rohan and Tournemine, and Charles de
+Dinan. At the moment of the battle, the white greyhound of Charles of
+Blois deserted his master and ran to his rival de Montfort, who was on
+horseback, and caressed him, standing on his hind paws. De Montfort
+recognised the dog by his collar, ornamented with the arms of Brittany,
+and this incident passed through his army as a favourable omen. The dog
+was known to have been the gift of a witch to Duke John the Good, who
+bequeathed it to his niece Jeanne, wife of Charles of Blois.
+
+Both armies heard mass, confessed themselves, and received the Communion
+before they opened the battle. The war cry of Charles was, "In the name of
+God and St. Ives," Montfort repeated the motto of his family, "Malo mori
+quam foedari" (better to die than be sullied), and his troops advanced to
+the onset to the cry of "Malo." Both chiefs wore the ermines emblazoned on
+their armour and their standards; and relatives and friends were ranged in
+battle array against each other. Following the tactics which had been
+successful at Cressy and Poitiers, Chandos quietly awaited the impetuous
+attack of the Franco-Breton army, which was unable to shake their
+antagonists, who returned the charge. The melee was fearful, but the
+battle was in favour of the English. Charles performed prodigies of
+valour. In vain Rohan and Laval rallied round him with the flower of the
+Breton knights; the prince was a prisoner, and an English soldier
+despatched him by plunging a dagger into his throat. Du Guesclin sustained
+all the force of the fight with his heavy steel mace, his battle-axe and
+his sword; but his mace was broken, the handle of his axe carried away,
+his sword shivered, and he had no other weapon left but his gauntlets, and
+was nearly overpowered by numbers, when Chandos, who fought with a
+battle-axe, entreated him to surrender, "Messire Bertrand, rendez-vous,
+cette journee n'est pas votre; il faut ceder a la fortune, une autre fois
+vous serez plus heureux." Convinced of the truth of Chandos' words, Du
+Guesclin surrendered to him the handle of his sword. Beaumanoir was among
+the prisoners; and Clisson, who never left the field, lost an eye in the
+conflict.
+
+A hair shirt was found, with thick knotted cords round the waist, upon the
+body of Charles, for he delighted in deeds of mortification. He often used
+to place pebbles in his shoes, and once walked two leagues barefoot in the
+snow to visit the relics of St. Ives, in consequence of which he was laid
+up for three months. He was buried at Guingamp, and his widow and children
+desired his canonisation; but de Montfort, fearing such a step would
+render him unpopular in Brittany, persuaded Pope Gregory XI. to refuse it.
+
+Du Guesclin, after he recovered his liberty, was destined, three years
+later, to be a second time the prisoner of the English at Navarrete, when
+the Black Prince replaced on his throne the cruel, perfidious Don Pedro.
+When Sir Hugh Calverley asked for the freedom of Du Guesclin, he was met
+by the reply, "Il ne faut pas lacher ce dogue de Bretagne, si fatal aux
+Anglais." It was represented to the Black Prince that report ascribed his
+detention to fear or jealousy; upon which he sent for Du Guesclin, who
+told him he was tired of listening to the squeaking of the mice in his
+prison, and longed to hear the nightingales of Brittany. He named his own
+ransom at 100,000 florins, the Black Prince reduced it to 60,000; and the
+Princess of Wales contributed 20,000. It was paid by Charles V. "Had it
+been ten millions," says his biographer, "France would have paid it all."
+In the Musee des Archives at Paris is preserved an order of Charles V. to
+his treasurer, to prepare 30,000 Spanish doublons, to be paid to the
+Prince of Wales for the ransom of Du Guesclin, adding, "il touche notre
+honneur grandement." This is the most ancient royal autograph in the
+collection. Charles calls him Bertran de Caclin. The Constable, in a deed
+of gift of the Chateau of Cachant to the Duke of Anjou, signs "Bertrain."
+
+A school for deaf and dumb occupies the Chartreuse, directed by the Soeurs
+de la Sagesse. We were shown round by a deaf and dumb guide, who made us
+write on his slate what we could not explain on our fingers, and he also
+wrote his reply. He showed us a series of paintings, copies of Le Soeur's
+Life of St. Bruno in the Louvre, which are said to have been executed by
+the monks of the Chartreuse. Attached to the church is a sepulchral chapel
+containing the bones of the victims of the unfortunate descent on
+Quiberon, when the immense armament of French royalists who were landed in
+British ships, perished. They were commanded by d'Hervilly, an old officer
+of the Constitutional Guard of Louis XVI., and he had for lieutenant Count
+Charles de Sombreuil, whose sister had rendered the name illustrious by
+her heroism in the Reign of Terror. They landed at Carnac, where Georges
+Cadoudal and a band of Chouans awaited their arrival. Hoche, at the head
+of a republican army, hastened to meet them. Every thing depended upon
+their rapidity of action, but three days were lost in disputes about the
+command among the emigrant generals. They took possession of the peninsula
+of Quiberon, a strip of land about six miles long by three wide, united to
+the mainland by a narrow tongue of sand a league in extent, called the
+Falaise. Fort Penthievre, placed on the plateau of a steep rock, and
+bathed on each side by the sea between the peninsula and the Falaise,
+defends the approach by land. The emigrant army was protected by the
+English fleet which lay in the bay of Quiberon, one of the safest and most
+sheltered on the coast. The defence of Fort Penthievre was entrusted to
+some republican soldiers taken from the English prisons. In a night
+encounter d'Hervilly was killed.  Hoche marched upon Fort Penthievre,
+which was given up to him by the traitor soldiers. La Puisaye threw
+himself into a boat and gained the English fleet. The emigrant army was
+thrown into the greatest disorder; the "Bleus," as the republican soldiers
+were called, pressed close upon them, and Sombreuil, driven to the water's
+edge, and deserted by his troops, offered to capitulate, on the condition
+that the lives should be spared of all save himself. "Yes," cried the
+republicans with one voice. They demanded that the fire of the English
+corvette should cease, and there being no boat at hand, Gesril du Papeu
+swam to the English ship, and having delivered his message, returned and
+surrendered himself prisoner. It is said that Hoche considered the
+capitulation sacred, but Tallien arrived armed with full powers from the
+Convention to treat the emigrants according to law. The prisoners had been
+conducted to Auray; Hoche, unwilling to be the witness of acts he could
+not prevent, returned to Brest. Not one French officer would consent to be
+a member of the military commission who were to try, or rather condemn,
+the captives. It was composed of Belgians and Swiss, and it was difficult
+to induce the soldiers to execute the sentence. Sombreuil and a few others
+were shot at Vannes. The execution of the rest took place in a field now
+called the Champ des Martyrs. They were brought out in twenties, and
+placed before a trench, dug beforehand, and shot. The massacre lasted
+three weeks. In all there were 952 victims. Two chapels have been erected;
+the one attached to the Chartreuse, and the other on the Champ des
+Martyrs. That in the Chartreuse has inscribed over the front, in letters
+of gold, "France in tears has raised it." The interior walls are overlaid
+with black and white marble, with two marble bas-reliefs by David of
+Angers: one representing the Duc d'Angouleme praying over the bones of the
+victims in 1814, when they were transferred from the Champ des Martyrs to
+the Chartreuse; the other, the laying of the first stone of the mausoleum
+by the Duchesse d'Angouleme in 1823. In 1829 the solemn inauguration of
+the expiatory monument took place; and it must have been touching to the
+spectators to have assisted at the ceremony with the Duchesse d'Angouleme,
+daughter of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, niece of the martyr saint the
+Princess Elizabeth, and herself long subjected to imprisonment and
+indignities. Only one year after this ceremony she again took the road to
+exile, where she ended her troublous life, a pattern of piety and
+resignation--
+
+            "Sa mort fut le soir d'un beau jour."
+
+In the centre of the mausoleum is the vault containing the bones, and over
+it a sarcophagus on a pedestal, upon which are inscribed the names of the
+victims. On the sarcophagus are busts of Sombreuil and the other chiefs of
+the expedition; and a profile of Monseigneur d'Herce, Bishop of Dol, one
+of the victims. Of the bas-reliefs on the mausoleum, one represents the
+heroic act of Gesril du Papeu, with the words "I hoped in God, and shall
+not be afraid;" the other, the landing of the emigrants on the shore of
+Carnac, with "All my brothers are dead for Israel;"--these inscriptions are
+all in Latin. Others are round the monument:--"Unworthily slain for God and
+the King;"--"Precious before God is the blood of his saints;"--"For our
+lives and our laws;"--"You will receive a greater glory and an eternal
+name." Our deaf and dumb guide let a light down into the vault to show us
+the bones of the victims, collected in one common sepulchre. The
+Chartreuse convent therefore commemorates two great tragedies of history:
+in ancient times the battle of Auray, which caused the death of Charles of
+Blois, the captivity of Du Guesclin, and the slaughter of the flower of
+Breton chivalry by the swords of their fellow Bretons. In modern days, the
+massacre of the royalists at Quiberon--both the horrible consequence of
+civil war.
+
+We then repaired to the "Champ des Martyrs," where took place the
+execution of the royalists. At the end of an avenue of silver firs is the
+expiatory chapel, with a granite portico, in the Doric style. Above is
+inscribed, "It is here they fell," and "The memory of the just shall be
+eternal."
+
+On the tomb is written, "Tombeau des royalistes courageux defenseurs de
+l'autel et du trone, ils tomberent martyrs de leurs nobles efforts. Quel
+Francais penetre des droits de la couronne ignore ce qu'il doit a ces
+illustres morts."
+
+The inn Pavilion d'en Haut is particularly comfortable and reasonable, and
+the people very obliging. Wishing to taste the crepes we had seen before,
+they procured some, and gave them to us hot--we thought they resembled a
+greasy crumpet.
+
+[Illustration: 34. Champ des Martyrs. Auray.]
+
+Auray is a good central point for visiting the Celtic remains:--menhirs,
+dolmens, cromlechs, all of which are as plentiful here as are calvaries,
+shrines, and churches in Leon. They seem all concentrated on these dreary
+wild landes, sometimes covered with furze bushes, at others strewn along
+the coast.
+
+Next day we drove to Locmariaker, nine miles from Auray, through Crach. On
+the right is the river or estuary of that name; over which a bridge is
+contemplated at La Trinite, to communicate with Carnac. Locmariaker is at
+the extremity of the peninsula formed by the rivers of Crach and Auray, at
+the entrance of the Morbihan. It must have been a place of some importance
+in the time of the Roman occupation of Gaul, as there are the remains of a
+circus, whose walls now enclose the cemetery, of a Gallo-Roman house, with
+baths, frescoed walls, and marble pavement. We picked up some fragments of
+Roman bricks which lie strewn upon the ground in great abundance. Midst
+these Roman remains are gigantic menhirs, barrows, and dolmens, vestiges
+of a still more ancient race. Locmariaker has two large tumuli, both vast
+tombs.
+
+[Illustration: 35. Sculptured Stone. Manne er Hroeck. Locmariaker.]
+
+We first visited the Manne-er-Hroek, the Montagne de la Fee, or de la
+Femme, which bears in the marine charts the name of "Butte de Cesar," for
+it was the fashion with antiquaries to attribute to Caesar and the Romans
+every Celtic monument, although bearing no resemblance whatever to any
+work of these conquerors. The Montagne de la Fee is a galgal or tumulus of
+elliptic form, about thirty feet high, formed of dry stones.  It was
+opened in 1863, and found to contain a sepulchral chamber or dolmen,
+outside of which lay a granite stone above three feet long, inscribed with
+various figures, and, in the middle, a cartouche, with hatchet-shaped
+characters. There were also found a number of celts (stone hatchets or
+knives), a green jasper necklace, and some glass beads, which have been
+transferred to the museum at Vannes.  The guide who furnished the light
+and showed us the grotto is the widow of a Polish officer. She had a
+Scotch terrier, which she wanted us to accept.  The legend of the mound is
+this:--A widow had the misfortune of losing her only solace, her son,
+compelled by law to embark for foreign lands. Years rolled by; he did not
+return. All said he was lost; but the heart of a mother hopes for ever,
+and the sad Armorican went every day to the point of Kerpenhir, whence she
+surveyed the ocean, and searched the depths of the horizon with tearful
+eyes for the purple sail(16) which was to bring joy and peace to her
+dwelling. One day, when she was returning sad as usual to her desolate
+home, she was accosted by an old woman, who enquired the cause of her
+troubles; and, on hearing them, advised her to heap a pile of stones, so
+that, mounting on the summit, she might see to a greater distance, and
+perhaps discern the long looked-for vessel. During the whole night the two
+women worked, and carried in their aprons the stones they gathered on the
+heath. In the morning their task was finished, and the Bretonne was scared
+to see the enormous heap that had been piled together; but the other
+quieted her fears, and helped her to climb to the top, whence soon the
+happy mother beheld the vessel of her son. The fairy, her assistant, had
+disappeared. This story evidently bears a vague tradition of this tumulus
+having been raised by a woman, and of some maritime expedition made by him
+for whom it was probably destined. The name of fairy is attached in
+Brittany to everything--mountains, springs, grottoes, rocks; every accident
+in nature is explained by a fairy origin.
+
+The next object we saw is also attributed to the fairies, the great
+menhir, called Men-er-Groach, or stone of the fairies. It is the largest
+menhir known, but it has been broken into three pieces, some say by
+thunder. Put together, it measures about 67 feet in length, and is 16 feet
+in diameter. The wonder is how it was placed there, for it is little less
+than the obelisk of St. Peter's, which took 800 to 900 men and 70 horses
+nearly a year to raise,--a work which was the great triumph of Fontana the
+engineer. The menhir is estimated to be one-third the height of Notre Dame
+at Paris.
+
+Lying also prostrate on the ground, by the side of it, is a smaller
+menhir, which is, however, above 30 feet long.
+
+[Illustration: 36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture. Dol des Marchands.
+Locmariaker.]
+
+Close to these gigantic menhirs is the large dolmen (Breton, _daul_,
+table, and _moen_, stone), known as the "Table de Cesar," or the "Dol des
+Marchands." We walked under it to see the curious hatchet-shaped figure
+sculptured on one of the upper stones. The common belief is that these
+dolmens or table-stones were Druidic altars, and the guides will show you
+the furrows for the blood of the human sacrifice to run down; but human
+bones having been found under some of these dolmens, lead one to suppose
+they were tombs. In the Scandinavian countries the peasants call them
+"Giants' Graves."
+
+The other great tumulus of Locmariaker is the Mont Heleu or Manne-Lud,
+also opened in 1863, and supposed to have been the sepulchre of a number
+of persons, perhaps of a whole generation. It has, like the Montagne de la
+Fee, a galleried chamber or dolmen, the floor formed of an enormous slab
+across the centre, on which is a sculpture resembling a celt; other
+sculptured stones were found in the same chamber. At the other end of the
+dolmen was an avenue of stones, some supporting the skeletons of horses'
+heads. This tumulus was probably the tomb of some great warrior: the
+horses' skeletons were the remains of a sacrifice, and the human bones of
+beings who had been immolated to accompany the earthly remains of their
+great chief to another world.
+
+We took a boat for Gavr' Inis, or the Goat Island, and embarked on the
+Morbihan (Breton, Little Sea), an inland sea, that gives its name to the
+department. Shut out from the ocean by the two peninsulas of Locmariaker
+and Rhuys, which form a narrow gully between the points of Kerpenhir and
+Port Navalo, this sea contains an archipelago of islands, numbering,
+according to tradition, as many as the days in the year. Of these, the Ile
+aux Moines is the largest. The arms of the sea forming the rivers of Auray
+and Vannes run into it. The navigation of the Morbihan is very dangerous,
+the ocean entering it by this narrow opening in three distinct currents;
+it is an endless labyrinth of rocks and water; its granite shores, torn by
+the sea, are indented with creeks, capes, and inlets.
+
+[Illustration: 37. Entrance to the Tumulus of Gavr' Inis.]
+
+[Illustration: 38/39. Sculptured Stones. Gavr' Inis.]
+
+Gavr' Inis is a small island, surmounted by a tumulus, which forms a
+conspicuous object, seen from all the mounds and dolmens around. It is a
+galgal of heaped stones, in the centre of which is a dolmen or galleried
+chamber, which was opened in 1832, and is the most curious monument in the
+Morbihan. The gallery, with its square sepulchral chamber at the end, is
+above fifty feet long and about five wide, composed of two rows of granite
+menhirs, or upright stones, which form the sides, with horizontal stones
+resting on them, ending in a chamber consisting of eight menhirs, with an
+enormous slab, thirteen feet long, placed over them horizontally to form
+the roof, and another, nearly as large, to form the floor. These stones
+are of granite, and no cement is used to unite them.  They are covered
+with incised figures of unknown meaning: sculptures in concentric whorls
+or circles, as if tattoed like the cheek of a New Zealander; and the only
+forms to be distinguished are serpent-like figures, and the representation
+of an axe, similar to those to be seen in the Grotte des Fees, the Dol des
+Marchands, and the Manne-Lud. In one of the side stones of the chamber are
+two handle-looking projections, with a recess behind, said, probably
+erroneously, to be the place where the victims were bound. No celts or
+other objects of antiquity were found in the grotto, which must have been
+previously rifled of its contents. These sculptures cannot have been
+executed without the use of metal instruments. There are also Celtic
+remains in the Ile aux Moines and other islands of the Morbihan, but our
+guide did not encourage us to extend our sail to visit them. The current
+between the island and Port Navalo is sometimes of great rapidity and
+violence.
+
+Next day we went to Carnac to see its marvellous avenues of menhirs. The
+Celtic remains here are of a different character from those of
+Locmariaker. Here there is quantity, at Locmariaker size. The monuments of
+the last are covered with strange characters and signs; in Carnac they are
+all plain and silent, according to the laws of the Druids, who prohibited
+writing, in the fear of thereby divulging their mysteries, and also that
+the people might not neglect to cultivate their memories.
+
+
+    "Tout cela eut un sens, et traduisit
+    Une pensee; mais la cle de ce mystere,
+    Ou est elle? et qui pourrait dire aujourd'hui
+    Si jamais elle se retrouvera?"--CAYAT DELANDRE.
+
+
+Before reaching Carnac, we stopped at Kermario on the left, and got out of
+the carriage to inspect the army of large menhirs about the windmill. They
+are arranged in eleven rows, some sixteen feet high, placed with the small
+end in the ground. They are all of a sombre grey, many of them clothed
+with straggling lichens of various species. This wild heathy tract was
+covered with the blue flower of the dwarf gentian, and strewed all over
+with menhirs. Before arriving at Carnac, the road passes the avenues of
+Menec, all running in the same direction as those of Kermario, from east
+to west: among these are some of the largest stones. The third large
+group, at Erdeven, we saw on our way from Carnac back to Auray by another
+road.
+
+
+    "D'un passe sans memoire incertaines reliques,
+    Mysteres d'un vieux monde en mysteres ecrits."
+                    LAMARTINE.
+
+
+We do not pretend to enter into the various explanations attempted of this
+wonderful monument. The legend at Carnac is, that St. Cornely, pursued by
+an army of pagans, fled towards the sea; finding no boat at hand, and on
+the point of being taken, he transformed the soldiers into stones.
+
+
+                    "Les soldats de deux rois idolatres
+    Poursuivaient notre saint deja l'ami des patres,
+    Et sur un chariot traine par de grands boeufs
+    Le bons vieux Corneli se sauvait devant eux;
+    Or, voici que la mer, terrible aussi l'arrete;
+    Alors, le saint prelat, du haut de sa charrette
+    Tend la main: les soldats, tels qu'ils etaient ranges,
+    En autant de menhirs, voyez! furent changes.
+    Telle est notre croyance, et personne n'ignore
+    Que le patron des boeufs c'est ici qu'on l'honore;
+    Aux lieux ou la charrette et le saint ont passes,
+    Le froment pousse encor plus vert et plus presse."
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+St. Cornely is the patron of bullocks. When a beast is ill, his owner buys
+an image of St. Cornely, and hangs it up in the stable till its recovery.
+In the church of Carnac is a series of fresco paintings portraying the
+principal events of his life, and outside, a sculpture representing him
+between two bullocks. The head of St. Cornely is preserved here; the
+pulpit is of forged iron, and in the sacristy is shown a silver gilt
+monstrance of the Louis XIV. period, with a representation of the Supper
+at Emmaus, chased in relief round the foot. We walked to the Mont St.
+Michel, a tumulus of stones with sepulchral dolmen, opened in 1862, but
+now closed. It was found to contain objects of the "Stone" age, a number
+of jade celts from four to sixteen inches long, some perforated beads and
+pendents for a necklace, and there were traces of burnt bones. Like most
+monuments of Celtic origin, these tumuli were regarded with religious
+veneration; and the first teachers of Christianity, to enlist the old
+worship to the cause of truth, marked each of these monuments with the
+symbol of the new faith. Thus the cross was placed on the menhir, and a
+chapel built upon Mont St. Michel, and, as we have before seen, on Mont
+Dol, and other high places of Druidic worship. The little chapel dedicated
+to St. Michel, which surmounts the tumulus, forms a conspicuous landmark
+from every point, and commands a most extensive view over the stones of
+Carnac ranged in their eleven lines, on a treeless plain, the Morbihan,
+and the long dreary peninsula of Quiberon.
+
+Returning by another route, we alighted at the inn at Plouharnel to see a
+collection of jade celts, gold torques, and necklaces of beads, found in
+the neighbourhood, belonging to the landlord, M. Bail, who has them all
+arranged in a frame. They were discovered in a group of dolmens near the
+village, opened in 1830, consisting of three grottos or allees couvertes,
+a kind of triple dolmen, covered over with a mound. The central grotto and
+gallery had been opened before. The second dolmen had also a grotto or
+allee couverte, in which was found an earthen pot, containing ashes and
+three gold necklaces. In the third were some fragments of pottery. Three
+gold necklaces, composed each of a single plate of metal, an inch and a
+half wide, with fragments of the earthen vessels in which they were found,
+together with stone celts and some pieces of bronze, extracted from the
+dolmen, we afterwards saw exhibited in the "Musee du Travail" of the
+Universal Exhibition of 1867. These dolmens belong to a much later period
+of civilisation than those of Locmariaker--to the "Bronze" Age.
+
+[Illustration: 40. Dolmen of Corcorro.]
+
+The number of dolmens in the Morbihan is estimated at 250. In the
+department of Finistere they are set at double the number. All are
+supposed to have been originally covered with earth. The bodies are more
+frequently buried than burnt. The dolmens contain implements of stone and
+bone, occasionally gold and bronze, but never iron. To judge from the
+comparative quantities found in the different departments, it may be
+assumed that they are the work of people who have entered France from the
+west, and have gradually worked their way by the rivers and valleys
+further up the country. In this secluded spot we found a large English
+family located, ten in number; they had been living there several months.
+Before reaching Erdeven, at Kerserho, on a large lande or heathy plain, we
+arrived at another series of the great Carnac army of stones, of which
+they are a continuation. They are arranged in nine parallel rows, as may
+be clearly distinguished by standing upon one of the stones; but the lines
+are rather interrupted by hedges and ditches. Some are menhirs planted
+vertically on the end, others enormous blocks simply laid upon the soil.
+They extend half a league from north to south, more numerous than Carnac,
+but generally not so tall, the highest from ten to twelve feet, but very
+large. The road is strewed with Druidic monuments. At Corcorro, between
+Plouharnel and Erdeven, on a farm, a short distance off the road, is a
+dolmen, the largest in the Morbihan. Its original length appears to have
+been 45 feet; the part preserved is 24 feet by 12 feet wide, and is
+covered with two slabs: one of these is enormous, about six feet wide. It
+is used as a cart-shed, and, when we saw it, contained bundles of hemp and
+a hemp-breaker. One of the top stones overhangs the others, showing the
+dolmen to have been originally larger. A number of ragged children
+clustered upon the top, as if they had been accustomed to group themselves
+for a picture. They effectually prevented any of us sketching the dolmen,
+for, as soon as we began to draw, they all, in number about forty, came
+down from their height and pressed closely around us. From Auray we took a
+carriage to Vannes, a tidal port, one league from the gulf of Morbihan,
+and capital of that department.
+
+Its people, the Veneti, were the head of the Armorican confederation, and
+commanded the fleet in time of war. Their vessels had sails of prepared
+skins, their cables were chains of iron. They traded with the Scilly
+Islands, and brought back tin, copper, skins, slaves, and dogs, objects of
+traffic with other nations. The Armorican confederation made a vigorous
+resistance against Caesar, who sent round for the Roman fleet and beat them
+in a naval battle in the Morbihan sea. The Romans had attached to their
+ships large sharp scythes which mowed down masts and rigging, and a dead
+calm rendering the enemy's ships immovable, they were soon taken, burnt,
+or sunk. This battle ended the war with the maritime states of the west.
+Caesar showed little mercy to the conquered: all the senators were put to
+death, and the rest of the population sold by auction to furnish the
+slave-markets of Italy.
+
+We walked to the promenade, called the "Garenne," where Sombreuil, Renee
+de Herce, bishop of Dol, and twenty-two others of the emigrants, were
+shot. Sombreuil was about twenty-six or twenty-seven years of age, a
+native of Perigord. He always persisted in the same account of the
+capitulation. His last words were:-"Si j'avais pu imaginer que des
+militaires pussent manquer a leur parole donnee sur le champ de bataille,
+je n'aurais jamais consenti a une capitulation; elle me cause des regrets
+amers qui me suivront jusqu'au tombeau. Adieu, Messieurs, nous trouverons
+justice et clemence devant un tribunal ou la fraude des hommes ne saurait
+jamais parvenir." A republican officer offered to bandage his eyes: "Non,"
+he exclaimed, "je veux voir mon ennemi jusqu'au dernier instant."
+Requested to kneel, Sombreuil answered: "Je le veux bien; mais je fais
+observer que je mets un genou pour mon Dieu, et l'autre pour mon roi."
+Thus ended the most ill-fated expedition that history has ever had to
+record.
+
+The cathedral of Vannes has a richly-sculptured north porch of Kersanton
+stone, and another, facing the Rue des Trois Duchesses. Also, a
+Renaissance chapel, called the Chapelle du Saint Sacrament or du Pardon,
+with a hideous roof replacing the original. Adjoining are the remains of
+the elegant cloisters of the cathedral, with basket-handled arcades of the
+fifteenth century. In the cathedral is also the chapel of St. Vincent
+Ferrier, the great preacher of the fifteenth century, whose labours
+extended over almost every country of Europe--Italy, Germany, France,
+Switzerland, and Great Britain. San Vicente Ferrar, a Dominican monk, was
+the son of an attorney, originally of Valencia, in Spain, of which city he
+is the tutelar saint. In Spain he led the way in preaching a crusade
+against the Jews and Moors, who were persecuted by the Inquisition with
+the most cruel bigotry. Invited to Brittany by Duke John V., he fixed
+himself at Vannes, where, after having evangelised the province, he died
+in 1419. He was buried in the cathedral. The Duchess Jeanne de France,
+daughter of Charles VI., was present at his deathbed, and insisted on
+laying him out. By her own desire, she was buried at his feet. Philip II.,
+King of Spain, desired his relics, but did not succeed in obtaining them.
+The little house in which St. Vincent Ferrier lived is preserved (No. 13,
+Rue des Orfevres). A tiny room, up a narrow staircase, is now converted
+into a chapel, in which are shown the stone which served him as a pillow,
+his lamp, and other relics.
+
+The Maison du Parlement or Chateau Gaillau is a curious old building, with
+its entrance by a stone staircase and turret. Vannes was the usual
+residence of Dukes John IV. and V., and had formerly three chateaux: La
+Motte, of which the Hotel de la Prefecture occupies the site; Plaisance,
+half a mile out of the town, where Duke Francis I. died; and La Hermine,
+scene of John IV.'s treacherous imprisonment of the Constable Clisson,
+which was razed in 1614. It had two towers--one demolished in 1770, the
+other still standing, called the "Tour du Connetable," because it was
+within its walls he imprisoned Clisson. The Duke had resolved on his
+death, to prevent the marriage of Clisson's daughter Marguerite to Jean de
+Bretagne, Count de Penthievre, son of Charles of Blois.(17) The story is
+well related by d'Argentre.
+
+The Duke of Brittany summoned his barons and knights to a council at
+Vannes, and entertained them in the Castle de la Motte. He behaved in the
+most friendly manner, and invited the Constable, the Lords of Laval and de
+Beaumanoir, to see the castle of Hermine he was building. He led the
+Constable by the hand through the chambers, and when they arrived at the
+keep, said, "Sir Oliver, there's not a man who understands masonry so well
+as yourself; enter and examine the walls well, and if you say it is
+properly built, it shall remain." The unsuspecting Constable ascended the
+staircase, when the door was closed upon him and he was seized and loaded
+with three pairs of fetters. The Duke ordered him to be put into a sack,
+his hands and feet tied, and to be thrown secretly at night into the sea.
+But the Constable owed his life to the loyalty of Jean Bazvalen, who, like
+another Hubert, did not obey his master's commands, the laws of his
+sovereign being less sacred in his eyes than the dictates of humanity and
+honour. Clisson was set at liberty, on agreeing to pay 100,000 livres and
+to surrender the town of Jugon and some other fortresses. This perfidious
+attempt occasioned a war of three years, and was retaliated by Clisson's
+daughter and grandsons upon Duke John V.
+
+The Tour du Connetable, which formed the north-east angle of the Chateau
+de la Hermine, is now used as a museum of Celtic antiquities, and contains
+various objects collected in the tumuli of the Morbihan. We observed one
+very large jade celt, eighteen inches long, found, we understood, in the
+Butte de Tumiac. At Vannes the States of Brittany held their sittings, and
+here took place the union of that province with France, 1532.
+
+About twelve miles from Vannes is Korn-er-hoet, demesne of the Princess
+Baciocchi, cousin of the Emperor. It was formerly surrounded by woods and
+the interminable lande of Lanvaux, which stretches its desolate length
+along the Morbihan from Baud to Rochefort. This district had been, from
+time immemorial, the abode of some eighty families of gipsies, who lived
+there in clay huts under the rule of a chieftain. The sight of this barren
+wilderness had so impressed the Princess Baciocchi, in a tour she made in
+Brittany in the year 1857, that she obtained the sanction of the Emperor
+to reclaim it. She caused a temporary chalet to be built for her
+occupation at Kern-er-hoet, and, superintending the works herself, in a
+few years effected a wonderful transformation. A model village has been
+formed, with church and schools, a well-ordered agricultural population
+organised, farm-buildings erected, roads macadamised, the barren lande
+drained and reclaimed, and the chateau surrounded by a well-wooded park.
+
+Great attention has been paid to the details of the dairy farm; all the
+disposable milk is made into Dutch cheese. The cows are those of Brittany
+and Ayrshire; the pigs from England. The whole demesne comprises about
+1300 acres, and the benevolent Princess resides entirely on the scene of
+her labours, among the people whose condition she has so ameliorated.(18)
+
+From Vannes we made an excursion into the peninsula of Rhuys, on the south
+of the Morbihan Sea. We first stopped at Sarzeau, where Lesage, the
+amiable author of 'Gil Blas,' was born, of whom it was written on his
+epitaph:--
+
+
+    "S'il ne fut pas ami de la fortune,
+    Il fut toujours ami de la vertu."
+
+
+Then on to the ducal fortress of Sucinio, situated on the borders of the
+ocean. It is a magnificent ruin, built in 1250, by Duke Jean le Roux, to
+deposit his treasures, in case an invasion of the French should compel him
+to leave his duchy. The position is well chosen, its situation on the
+seashore enabling him easily to embark his treasures.
+
+This formidable "coffre fort" was a favourite residence of the Dukes of
+Brittany, who came here as a relief from the cares and ceremonies of a
+Court. Its name, of which Sucinio is a corruption, Soucy-ny-ot, synonymous
+with the Sans-Souci of the great Frederick, shows its intention. This
+locality was long celebrated for its fine air, and its peaceful character.
+Louis XIV. used to say to his courtiers--
+
+
+    "Desirez vous un pays de repos et de delices?
+    Allez habiter l'ile de Rhuys."
+
+
+Partly demolished, Sucinio presents a mass of now only picturesque ruins,
+a curious type of the architecture of the thirteenth century. Five of the
+eight enormous battlemented towers remain, and the flamboyant window of
+the chapel on the upper floor of the building is still preserved. Traces
+of the portcullis and drawbridge are visible. Over the gallery is an
+escutcheon, with a couchant lion holding the arms of Brittany, between two
+stags, also couchant, at the foot of a tree. The sea that bathed the walls
+of the castle has been driven back by the accumulation of mud and the
+crumbling of the walls.
+
+Here was born Arthur III., Comte de Richemont, Constable of France, and
+afterwards Duke of Brittany. This illustrious man, equally great as a
+warrior and politician, does not take his merited place in the page of
+history, owing probably to the partiality of French historians, who were
+always jealous of the glory of Brittany. Except Du Guesclin, no other
+constable has rendered greater service to France.
+
+A prisoner at Agincourt, where he commanded the van, he fought with the
+Maid of Orleans,(19) at Beaugeney, took Talbot captive at Patai,
+reconquered almost the whole of Normandy, entered Paris in 1436, and
+finally expelled the English by the crushing victory of Formigny, having
+staked his honour to drive them out of the kingdom. Seven years after, he
+succeeded to the ducal crown; but such was the confidence of Charles VII.
+in his loyalty, that he retained the supreme command of the French army
+with his new dignity. He reigned only fourteen months. Richmont always
+caused two swords to be carried before him when he appeared in presence of
+the King; a naked sword, as Duke of Brittany, and the other sheathed and
+the point turned downwards, as Constable of France. The title of Earl of
+Richmond, styled by the French Comte de Richmont, dates from the
+Conqueror. Alan Rufus, son of the Earl of Brittany, accompanied Duke
+William to England, and commanded the rear of the army at the battle of
+Hastings. For these services, he was rewarded with the hand of the
+Conqueror's daughter, and all that northern part of Yorkshire, now called
+Richmondshire, where he built, on the river Swale, the town and castle of
+Richmond.  The title passed through Alice, daughter of Constance of
+Brittany, to Pierre de Dreux, and descended through him to all the Dukes
+of his house, until John IV., having gone over to the King of France, was
+deprived of the earldom by Act of Parliament, in the reign of King Richard
+II.; but Henry IV. again conferred the title upon his stepson Arthur,
+afterwards the celebrated Constable and Duke of Brittany.
+
+We returned to breakfast at Sarzeau; then on to the Abbey of St. Gildas de
+Rhuys, founded on this inaccessible coast by St. Gildas, an English saint,
+the schoolfellow and friend of St. Samson of Dol and St. Pol de Leon, and
+which counted among its monks our Saxon St. Dunstan, who, carried by
+pirates from his native isle, settled on the desolate shores of Brittany,
+and became, under the name of St. Goustan, the patron of mariners.
+
+St. Gildas built his abbey on the edge of a high rocky promontory, the
+site of an ancient Roman encampment, called Grand Mont, facing the shore,
+where the sea has formed numerous caverns in its rocks. They are composed
+chiefly of quartz, and are covered to a great height with innumerable
+small mussels. The tide was too high to admit of our entering into any of
+the grottoes, but the piles of dark rocks beaten into every form by the
+violence of the waves, rising sometimes to the height of sixty feet, are
+very imposing. St. Gildas, in the twelfth century, had Abelard for
+superior, who, on his appointment, made over to Eloise the celebrated
+abbey he had founded at Nogent, near Troyes, which he called the Paraclete
+or Comforter, because he there found comfort and refreshment after his
+troubles, but his peace soon ended on his arrival in Brittany. His gentle
+nature was unable to contend against these coarse, ferocious, unruly,
+Breton monks. As he writes in his well-known letter to Eloise, setting
+forth his griefs:--
+
+  "J'habite un pays barbare, dont la langue m'est inconnue et en horreur:
+  je n'ai de commerce qu'avec des peuples feroces; mes promenades sont les
+  bords inaccessibles d'une mer agitee; mes moines n'ont d'autre regle que
+  n'en point avoir. Je voudrais que vous vissiez ma maison, vous ne la
+  prendriez jamais pour une abbaye: les portes ne sont ornees que de pieds
+  de biche, de loups et d'ours, de sangliers, des depouilles hideuses des
+  hiboux. J'eprouve chaque jour de nouveaux perils; je crois a tout moment
+  voir sur ma tete un glaive suspendu."
+
+But if Abelard hated the monks, they equally detested him, and one day
+tried to poison him, but he escaped through a gate in the garden wall,
+still pointed out, to the sea shore, where his friend and protector, the
+Count de Rhuys, awaited him in a boat.
+
+The abbey is now in the occupation of twelve sisters of the "Charite de
+St. Louis," who have a school for poor girls, and, in the summer, take in
+families to board who come here for the benefit of the bracing air of this
+fine wild coast. There is a kind of establishment for bathing in the
+little bay below the abbey. The board and lodging is moderate, three
+francs and a half a day, wine, tea, and sugar, not included. Boys are
+admitted up to thirteen, but the men are sent into the town.
+
+Part of the abbey church is Romanesque: a semi-circular choir, with three
+round chapels and the transepts. The nave and tower are of modern date.
+The pavement is covered with tumulary stones. Four children of Duke John
+III. le Roux are buried here, and one of Joan of Navarre and John IV. In
+the Treasury are several pieces of plate, among which is a Renaissance
+chalice, with six canopied statuettes of Apostles forming the knop; and a
+cross of the same period, a chasse of St. Gildas, his head and arm both
+encased in silver reliquaries.  His tomb is in the church.  Encrusted in
+the wall outside the church are the figures of two knights on horseback in
+mailed armour, conical Norman helmets, long pointed shields, and lances in
+the attitude of combat. The church and convent of St. Gildas belonged to
+the family of Bisson, whose self-devotion is commemorated by a statue at
+Lorient. He passed here many years of his early life, and wishing to
+preserve the buildings from ruin, gave them as a present to the parish.
+St. Gildas is called by the Bretons St. Feltas. There is a rude coloured
+print in the church relative to the legend of Comorre, or Comor, the
+Breton "Blue Beard," in which St. Gildas plays a conspicuous part. The
+story, as told by Emile Souvestre, is this:--Guerech, Count of Vannes, the
+country of white corn, had a daughter, Triphyna, whom he tenderly loved.
+One day, ambassadors arrived from Comorre, a Prince of Cornouaille, the
+country of the black corn, demanding her in marriage. Now this caused
+great distress, for Comorre was a giant, and one of the wickedest of men,
+held in awe by every one for his cruelty. As a boy, when he went out, his
+mother used to ring a bell to warn people of his approach. He shot a child
+in order to prove his gun; and, when unsuccessful in the chase, would set
+his dogs on the peasants to tear them in pieces. But most horrible of all,
+he had had four wives, who all died one after the other, under suspicion
+of having been killed by either the knife, fire, water, or poison. The
+Count of Vannes, therefore, dismissed the ambassadors, and advanced to
+meet Comorre, who was approaching with a powerful army; but St. Gildas
+went into her oratory, and begged Triphyna would save bloodshed, and
+consent to the marriage. He gave her a silver ring, which would warn her
+of any intended evil, by turning, at the approach of danger, as black as
+the crow's wing. The marriage took place with great rejoicings. The first
+day six thousand guests were invited; on the next as many poor were fed,
+the bride and the bridegroom serving at table, a napkin under their arms.
+For some time, all went on well. Comorre's nature seemed changed, his
+prisons were empty, his gibbets untenanted; but Triphyna felt no
+confidence, and every day went to pray at the tombs of his four wives. At
+this time there was an assembly at Rennes of the Breton Princes, which
+Comorre was obliged to attend. Before his departure, he gave Triphyna the
+keys, desiring her to amuse herself in his absence. After five months he
+unexpectedly returned, and found her occupied in trimming an infant's cap
+with gold lace.  On seeing the cap, Comorre turned pale; and when Triphyna
+joyfully announced to him that in two months he would be a father, he drew
+back in a rage and rushed out of the apartment. Triphyna saw that her ring
+had turned black, which betokened danger, she knew not why. She descended
+into the chapel to pray; when she rose to depart it was midnight, and she
+saw the four tombs of Comorre's wives open slowly, and they all issued
+forth in their winding-sheets. Half dead with fear, Triphyna tried to
+escape; but the spectres cried, "Take care, poor lost one! Comorre seeks
+to kill you." "I," says the Countess, "what evil have I done?"--"You have
+told him that you will soon become a mother; and, through the Spirit of
+Evil, he knows that his child will kill him, and that is why he has
+murdered us, when we told him what he has just learned from you." "What
+hope then of escape remains for me," cried Triphyna."--"Go back to your
+father," answered the phantoms. "But how escape when Comorre's dog guards
+the court?"--"Give him this poison which killed me," said the first wife."
+"But how can I descend this high wall?"--"By means of this cord which
+strangled me," answered the second wife. "But who will guide me through
+the dark?"--"The fire which burnt me," replied the third wife. "And how can
+I make so long a journey?" returned Triphyna.--"Take this stick which broke
+my skull," rejoined the fourth spectre. Armed with these weapons, Triphyna
+sets out, silences the dog, scales the wall, sees her way through the
+darkness, and proceeds on her road to Vannes. On awakening next morning,
+Comorre finds his wife fled, and pursues her on horseback. The poor
+fugitive, seeing her ring turn black, turned off the road and hid herself
+till night in the cabin of a shepherd, where was only an old magpie in a
+cage at the door. Comorre, who had given up the pursuit, was returning
+home that road, when he heard the magpie trying to imitate her complaints,
+and calling out "Poor Triphyna!" he therefore knew his wife had passed
+that way, and set his dog on the track. Meanwhile, Triphyna felt she could
+proceed no further, and laid down on the ground, where she brought into
+the world a boy of marvellous beauty. As she clasped him to her arms, she
+saw over her head a falcon with a golden collar, which she recognised as
+her father's. The bird came to her call, and giving it the warning ring of
+St. Gildas, she told it to fly with it to her father. The bird obeyed and
+flew with it like lightning to Vannes; but, almost at the same instant,
+Comorre arrived; having parted with her warning ring, Triphyna, who had no
+notice of his approach, had only time to conceal her babe in the cavity of
+a tree, when Comorre threw himself upon his unhappy wife, and with one
+blow severed her head from her body. When the falcon arrived at Vannes, he
+found the King at dinner with St. Gildas; he let the ring fall into the
+silver cup of his master, who recognising it, exclaimed, "My daughter is
+in danger; saddle the horses, and let St. Gildas accompany us." Following
+the falcon, they soon reached the spot where Triphyna lay dead. After they
+had all knelt in prayer, St. Gildas said to the corpse, "Arise, take thy
+head and thy child, and follow us." The dead body obeyed, the bewildered
+troop followed; but, gallop as fast as they could, the headless body was
+always in front, carrying the babe in her left hand, and her pale head in
+the right. In this manner, they reached the castle of Comorre. "Count,"
+says St. Gildas, "I bring back your wife such as your wickedness has made
+her, and thy child such as Heaven has given it thee. Wilt thou receive
+them under thy roof?" Comorre was silent. The Saint three times repeated
+the question, but no voice returned an answer. Then St. Gildas took the
+new-born infant from its mother, and placed it on the ground. The child
+marched alone to the edge of the moat, and picking up a handful of earth,
+and throwing it against the castle, exclaimed, "Let the Trinity execute
+judgment." At the same instant the towers shook and fell with a great
+crash; the walls yawned open and the castle sunk, burying Comorre and all
+his fellow partners in crime. St. Gildas then replaced Triphyna's head
+upon her shoulders, laid his hands upon her, and restored her to life, to
+the great joy of her father.--Such is the history of Triphyna and Comorre.
+
+On our way back to Vannes we saw on our left the Butte de Tumiac, or Butte
+d'Arzon, the largest tumulus of the Morbihan. It was opened in 1853, and
+found to enclose a chamber full of pulverised bones and various curious
+objects. From Vannes we also visited the stately castle of Elven, about
+four miles from the station of that name; not built on a lofty site, for,
+in the fifteenth century, the barons had descended from their heights to
+places more convenient of access, and where water was more easily
+obtained. The Breton feudal lords of Rohan, Rieux, Clisson, and
+Penthievre, no longer required fortified places as means of defence
+against the French and English, but, in consequence of their own internal
+divisions, to defend them in their wars with their duke or among
+themselves. The castle of Elven is situated in an insulated coppice wood,
+in the midst of the lande of Elven. It was the chief place of the lordship
+of l'Argoet (in Breton, "upon the wood"), and is also called the fortress
+of Largoet.
+
+[Illustration: 41. Castle of Elven.]
+
+The ruins, which occupy a large enclosure, consist chiefly of two towers;
+the principal one, 130 feet high, is octagonal; the other, which is not
+above 100 feet in height, is split from top to bottom. The battlemented
+walls are nearly 20 feet thick at the base. A wide deep moat surrounded
+the castle, and it was furnished with subterranean passages and everything
+requisite to make it a model of the military architecture of the fifteenth
+century. The donjon has two granite staircases; one leads to the top,
+whence may be seen Vannes and the Morbihan, with its islands. Here, in
+1793, the Royalists established signals. In the castle of Elven, Henry of
+Richmond, then only fifteen, with his uncle, Jasper Tudor, Earl of
+Pembroke, were detained by Duke Francis II. for fifteen years. Fugitives
+after Tewkesbury, they were thrown by a tempest upon the shores of
+Brittany. Henry was claimed both by King Edward IV. and Louis XI., and was
+kept by Duke Francis as a pledge of the good faith of Edward towards
+Brittany. Perhaps also Francis may have entertained some ill-feeling
+towards Henry from his bearing the title of Earl of Richmond, which had
+been held for more than three hundred years by the Dukes of Brittany.
+Francis revived the claim to the title which Henry VI. had conferred
+(1452) on Edward Tudor, father of Henry. Subsequently, on the assurance of
+the King of England that he only required the release of Henry to invest
+him with the Order of the Garter and to give him his daughter, the
+Princess Elizabeth, in marriage, Duke Francis made over the Prince to the
+English Ambassador, and he was about to embark at St. Malo for England,
+when the Duke's Grand Treasurer (Landais) arrived, warned Henry of his
+danger, and helped him to take refuge in the sanctuary of the church,
+whence he afterwards withdrew him again to place him in honourable
+captivity for twelve more years, till King Edward's death. A party being
+formed in England, aided by the Duchess of Brittany, Francoise de Foix,
+Henry attempted a descent; but the plan being discovered, after seeing the
+English coast, Henry was obliged to return to Brittany and his ships were
+scattered in a storm.  Again within his power, Landais listened to the
+offers of King Richard III., and agreed to give him up; but Henry,
+informed in time, left Vannes, threw himself into the forest, and escaped
+to France, where he obtained from the regent, Anne de Beaujeu, the
+assistance which enabled him to mount the English throne.
+
+The castle of Elven, with those of Rieux and Rochefort, belonged to the
+Marechal de Rieux. Elven was rebuilt by him with the materials of the old;
+but they were all dismantled by the orders of the Duchess Anne in 1496, to
+punish her guardian for his revolt. Yet Rieux acted as he thought best for
+the welfare of his late master and his daughter, whose cause he defended
+against the interested views of the King of France. Rieux had that keen
+sense of honour which is one of the characteristics of the Breton
+gentleman. When he reproached Anne de Beaujeu, regent, to her brother
+Charles VIII., for having instigated the King to attack Nantes, contrary
+to his engagements, Anne replied, "He had no written promise." "Et quoi,
+Madame!" he indignantly exclaimed; "la parole d'un roy, ne vaut elle pas
+mille scellez?" Louis de Rieux, the last of the race, was shot on the
+Champs des Martyrs. True to the motto of his house, "A toute heure,
+Rieux," he showed himself ready "at any hour" to die for the altar and the
+throne.
+
+Elven is the scene of M. Octave Feuillet's "Roman d'un jeune Homme
+pauvre;" and the keeper who shows the ruins points out the spot whence the
+"Hero of Romance" took the leap to prove his loyalty, and which gained him
+the hand of the lady.
+
+Next morning we started early by rail to Questembert, to meet the
+diligence for Ploermel, twenty miles from this station, passing through
+Malestroit. We saw quantities of chestnuts on our road, and were told they
+were largely exported to England. They come principally from the
+neighbourhood of Redon and other places in the department of
+Ile-et-Vilaine, where they grow as abundantly as described by Madame de
+Sevigne, when writing from the Chateau des Roches, in the same department:
+"Pour nous, ce sont des chataignes qui font notre ornement. J'en avois
+l'autre jour trois au quatre paniers autour de moi. J'en fis bouillir,
+j'en fis rotir, j'en mis dans mes poches, on en sert dans les plats, on
+marche dessus, c'est la Bretagne dans son triomphe."
+
+Ploermel derives its name (plo-ermel, land or territory of Armel) from an
+anchorite of the sixth century, who treated a dragon which ravaged the
+country in the time of King Childebert in the same manner as St. Pol de
+Leon disposed of the monster at Batz.
+
+The facade of the church of Saint Armel has a number of grotesque
+carvings--the sow playing the bagpipes, the cobbler sewing up the mouth of
+his wife, &c.; but it is principally remarkable for its eight painted
+windows of the sixteenth century, lately restored, and the monumental
+effigies of two Dukes of Brittany; the one, John II., who was killed at
+Lyons, where he went to settle some differences with his clergy, on the
+occasion of the coronation of Pope Clement V. A wall, loaded with
+spectators, fell, and the Duke was crushed in its ruins; the Pope escaped
+with being only thrown from his mule.
+
+The other effigy is that of Duke John III., or the Good, whose death was
+the signal for the War of Succession. He died at Caen. These tombs were
+formerly in the Carmelite convent founded by John II., who, on his return
+from the Holy Land, established the first Carmelite convent in Brittany,
+and brought monks from Mount Carmel to inhabit it.
+
+The tombs were destroyed in the Revolution, but the two statues were
+saved. They are of white marble, and are placed on a monumental slab, side
+by side, with this inscription: "De tous temps la fidelite Bretonne rendit
+hommage a ses souverains." Duke John II. is represented in a hauberk of
+mail, the hood turned back, with cotte d'armes, shield, and sword. Duke
+John III. has his head encircled by the ducal crown, his hair long, his
+genouillieres, cuissarts, &c., of plate armour. His shield and cotte
+d'armes are seme of ermines, and by his side is the dagger of misericorde,
+which served to kill the fallen enemy unless he cried for mercy. When
+James II. passed through Ploermel after the Battle of the Boyne, a
+fugitive and a dethroned monarch, the Carmelite monks would not take him
+in; but he found in the little village of Penfra the hospitality they had
+refused him. Here is an establishment, directed by a brother of Lamennais,
+the celebrated author of 'Paroles d'un Croyant,' where people of all
+nations--Indians, negroes from Senegambia, and others--are educated and
+taught trades of every kind, and sent back to their own countries.
+
+[Illustration: 42. Column of the Thirty.]
+
+The people about Ploermel and Josselin speak French instead of Breton, the
+prevailing language of the Morbihan department. It is nearly seven miles
+between Ploermel and Josselin. Equally distant from each, at Mi-voie, in
+the centre of a star formed by avenues of firs and cypresses, is an
+obelisk set up to commemorate the famous "Combat des Trente," which took
+place on this spot in 1351, and on which are inscribed the names of the
+thirty who fought on the French side. It was during that period of the War
+of Succession when hostilities were carried on by the two Jeannes, Marshal
+Beaumanoir, the Breton commander of the garrison of Josselin for Jeanne de
+Penthievre, gave a challenge to Bembro', as he is called, the English
+captain who held Ploermel for Jeanne de Montfort and her infant son, in
+consequence of an alleged infraction by the latter of a truce, agreed upon
+between the Kings of France and England, in which it had been stipulated
+that the peasants and those not bearing arms should be unmolested. In
+spite of this compact, the English soldiers devastated the country and
+committed every kind of excess. Jean de Beaumanoir repaired to Ploermel to
+remonstrate, and it was agreed to settle the dispute by a fight between
+thirty warriors from each camp. The prophecies of Merlin were consulted,
+and found to promise victory to the English. The appointed place of
+meeting was by a large oak, the "Chene de Mi-Voie," on a lande or large
+plain, half way from each town. The battle began with great fury, at first
+to the disadvantage of the Bretons, when Bembro' was killed, which threw
+dismay among the English; but a German, who succeeded in the command,
+rallied their courage, and the melee became thicker than ever. Beaumanoir
+was wounded, and his loss of blood and his long fast produced a burning
+thirst, and he asked for water. "Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, ta soif se
+passera," was the reply of Geoffroy du Bois; and Beaumanoir, forgetting
+his thirst and his wound, continued the fight. The English kept their
+ranks close, till Guillaume de Montauban broke them by a stratagem and
+threw them into confusion. He mounted his horse and pretended to fly, then
+suddenly turned upon the English with such force that he threw seven down
+and broke their ranks:--
+
+
+    "Grande fut la bataille et longuement dura:
+    Et le chapple (carnage) horrible est deca et dela;
+    La chaleur fut moult grande, chacun si tressua (sua);
+    De soeur et de sang la terre rosoya (rougit).
+    A ce bon samedi Beaumanoir si jeuna;
+    Grand soif eut le baron, a boire demanda;
+    Messire Geoffrey du Bois tantot repondu a:
+    'Bois ton sang, Beaumanoir, la soif te passera;
+    Ce jour aurons honneur, chacun si gagnera
+    Vaillante renommee, ja blame ne sera.'--
+    Beaumanoir le vaillant adonc s'evertua,
+    Tel deuil eut et telle ire que la soif lui passa;
+    Et d'un cote et d'autre le chapple commenca:
+    Morts furent ou blesses, gueres n'en echappa."--BRIZEUX.
+
+
+Sir Robert Knollys, Sir Hugh Calverly Croquart, and others were made
+prisoners, and thus ended the Battle of the Thirty; gained, however, in a
+most disloyal manner, Montauban getting the aid of a horse, when all the
+other combatants fought on foot.
+
+The Breton knights returned to Josselin, their helmets decorated with
+branches of the broom--
+
+
+    "In every basnet a bright broom flower;"
+
+
+the place where the battle was fought running, according to the French
+poem,
+
+
+    "Le long d'une genetaie qui etait verte et belle."
+
+
+Josselin is celebrated for its chateau, where died, 1407, Olivier du
+Clisson, the contemporary and brother of arms of Du Guesclin, whom he
+succeeded in the dignity of Constable of France, which no one for some
+time would accept, not thinking themselves worthy of replacing him. Both
+differed widely in position and character. Du Guesclin, though of a noble
+family, had not the advantage of fortune like Clisson, who had immense
+wealth and landed possessions, which made him a kind of sovereign in the
+duchy. He willed away a million of money. Clisson was a statesman, Du
+Guesclin's sole glory was in arms. Clisson was cruel, intriguing, and
+insatiable for riches; Du Guesclin was humane, loyal, and disinterested.
+Both were equal in bravery and physical force: the lance of Du Guesclin
+and the axe of Clisson(20) carried all before them. Clisson joined with Du
+Guesclin in freeing the country from the "Great Companies," and his most
+celebrated action was the defeat of the Flemings at Rosbecq. Few subjects
+have been so powerful, or have filled so important a part, as Olivier du
+Clisson. He was true to his sovereign after his reconciliation, and to his
+children after him. John IV. had scarce closed his eyes when the daughter
+of Clisson, wife of Jean de Penthievre, came to her father and said, "It
+depends only on you that my husband receives the inheritance of Brittany."
+"How?" asked the Constable. "By your ridding yourself of the children of
+De Montfort." "Ah! cruel and perverse woman," exclaimed Clisson; "if you
+live long, you will destroy the honour and property of your children;" and
+he accompanied his words with such violent menaces, that, seized with
+affright, she fled from his presence, and falling down, broke her thigh.
+The prophecy of Clisson was fulfilled, as we shall later relate. The
+ancient chateau in which he died was destroyed by Henry IV.; the present
+building was raised by Alain IX., Vicomte de Rohan, through Alain VIII.,
+who married Beatrix, eldest daughter of the Constable, by which Josselin
+descended to the Rohans,(21) a house yielding to none in antiquity and
+illustration, being descended from the ancient sovereigns of Brittany, and
+allied with all the crowned heads of Europe,--"Princes of Bretagne" they
+were styled. But the Rohan family became unpopular in the duchy, when John
+II. attached himself to Louis XI. and France, for the bribe of 8000 livres
+to himself and 4000 to his wife.
+
+At the battle of St. Aubin du Cormier, which sealed the fate of Brittany,
+the Vicomte du Rohan betrayed his brother-in-law Duke Francis and the
+national cause, and fought on the side of France. He afterwards marched at
+the head of the French troops, and besieged Guingamp, where its brave
+defenders declared, "As long as there is a duchess in Brittany, we will
+not give up her towns." But they took Pontrieux and Concarneau, and in
+1491 the Vicomte du Rohan was appointed by Charles VIII.
+Lieutenant-General in Lower Brittany.  He was called by his countrymen the
+"Felon Prince;" and so detested was he and his race, that it passed into a
+proverb to say of a mean, treacherous, dishonest person, "Il mange a
+l'auge comme Rohan,"--"He eats at the manger (that is, the table of the
+King of France) like Rohan." "Un peu de jactance," therefore, justly
+observes Daru, in the proud motto of the Rohans:--(22)
+
+
+    "Roi ne puis,
+    Prince ne daigne,
+    Rohan je suis."
+
+
+[Illustration: 43. Chateau of Josselin.]
+
+The chateau of Josselin stands by a river, on which side it presents piles
+of towers and fortifications covered with slate, a severe specimen of
+military architecture; while on the other side, the cour d'honneur, we see
+one of the handsomest chateaux of the Renaissance yet remaining in
+Brittany. This facade is richly ornamented with sculptures of varied and
+fanciful design.  Immense gurgoyles, in the form of serpents, stretching
+from the roof to the base, pierced balustrades or galleries of lace-like
+delicacy, in which are introduced, according to the fashion of the period,
+the initial letters of the Vicomte Alain, A and V interlaced. The old
+Rohan motto, "A plus," and the escutcheon of gules, nine mascles or
+lozenges, occur in every part of this gorgeous front, and also on the
+finely-carved chimneypiece of the reception room (salle d'honneur). The
+whole of the chateau is in course of restoration by the Prince de Leon.
+
+In the church of Josselin is the tomb of the Constable Clisson, with that
+of Marguerite de Rohan his wife; both statues were mutilated in the
+Revolution, but are now restored: they are of white marble on a black
+slab. Clisson is in armour, Marguerite has her hair plaited and confined
+in a network of pearls; she wears a long robe, with a surcoat above,
+furred with ermine. The motto, "Pour ce qu'il me plest (plait)," is in an
+oratory which belonged to Clisson, expressing his haughty and overbearing
+will. This same motto appears on his seal, affixed to a letter preserved
+in the archives of the empire, and he is recorded to have had it inscribed
+upon his Constable's sword, which, like Du Guesclin, he always wore
+unsheathed, to show he was ready at all times to fight the enemies of the
+crown.
+
+There hangs in the church a picture of the finding of the image Notre
+Dame-du-Roncier, of which we relate the legend:--
+
+Long before Josselin was a town, a poor labourer had remarked, on the spot
+where now stands the church of Notre Dame, a bramble bush, which the frost
+and snow of the roughest winters never deprived of its leaves, but it
+always remained fresh and green. Surprised at this strange phenomenon, he
+dug the soil under the bramble, and discovered a wooden statue of the
+Virgin. A marvellous light played round the head of the image. The man
+carried it home; but next morning, to his surprise, he found the statue
+under the same bush whence he had taken it. The miracle was repeated
+several times, and soon attracted crowds of devotees. A chapel was built
+to deposit the sacred image, houses followed next, and a little town
+gradually formed, which the Comte de Porhoet surrounded with walls, and
+Josselin, his son, endowed with his name, 1030. Such was the rise of
+Josselin. A celebrated pilgrimage still exists to Josselin on Whit
+Tuesday, resorted to by crowds of "aboyeuses" or barkers, people possessed
+with this kind of epilepsy, said to be hereditary in several families, and
+which is accounted for from the circumstance of a party of washerwomen
+having refused a glass of water to the Vierge du Roncier, who went to them
+disguised in the garb of a beggar. The merciless creatures set their dogs
+upon the pretended mendicant, and thus brought down upon themselves and
+their posterity this fearful malediction. The disease is supposed to
+return periodically about Whitsuntide, and only to leave the afflicted
+when they are carried forcibly to the sanctuary of Notre Dame to press
+with their foaming lips the fragments still remaining of the ancient
+miraculous statue which was burnt upon the public Place in the time of the
+French Revolution.
+
+We left Ploermel at four o'clock in the morning for Montfort-sur-Mer,
+passing through Plelan; while the horses baited at a little auberge we got
+some hot coffee, and found a good fire in the kitchen. The landlady, shut
+in her "lit clos," did not disturb herself, but occasionally put out her
+head to give directions for our breakfast. On the left of the road is the
+forest of Paimpont, which formerly extended from Montfort to Rostrenan, a
+kind of neutral desert land, called Broceliande, and famous, under that
+name, in the history of King Arthur. It was the theatre of the fairies'
+most wondrous enchantments. Here was the fountain of Youth and also that
+of Barenton, where they came every day to draw water in an emerald basin.
+Here, too, the enchanted Merlin has lain sleeping for centuries,
+enthralled by his pupil the fairy Viviana, who has cast a spell upon her
+master she knows not how to break.
+
+Montfort, where we joined the railway, is celebrated for the legend of the
+duck and its ducklings, and was the residence of the De Montfort family
+until Guy Comte de Laval and Sire de Montfort married Francoise de Dinan,
+widow of the unfortunate Gilles de Bretagne, when the Montforts left their
+paternal demesne for the chateaux of Laval, Vitre, and Chateaubriant.
+
+The railway took us to Rennes, an uninteresting modern French town, the
+old town was burnt down in 1720, and straight streets have risen up, with
+no traces of its having been once the ancient capital of Brittany. Indeed,
+so French is it altogether, that the saying runs--"Bon Breton de Vannes,
+bon Francais de Rennes." It was here that Constance, heiress of the duchy,
+held her court, with Geoffrey Plantagenet, who, with their unfortunate son
+Arthur, were the only Plantagenets, dukes of Brittany. On the murder of
+Arthur, his sister Alice carried the ducal crown to her husband, Pierre de
+Dreux (called Mauclerc, from his animosity to the clergy), and from them
+descended the dukes of Brittany down to Queen Anne, whose double marriage
+conveyed the duchy to France and the Valois.
+
+When Henry IV. made his solemn entry into Rennes, the Governor presented
+him with the three silver-gilt keys of the city, of rich workmanship; upon
+which the King observed, "Elles etaient belles, mais qu'il aimait mieux
+les clefs des coeurs des habitants."
+
+The following year we made a tour along the banks of the Loire, and at
+Angers embarked on board the steamer for Nantes. The scenery down the
+Loire is rich, and the hills covered with vineyards, islands planted with
+willows, and sunny villages, or occasionally a gloomy fortress comes to
+view. Ingrandes is the frontier town, half in Anjou and half in Brittany,
+between the modern departments of Loire Inferieure and Maine-et-Loire.
+Lower down is St. Florent (Maine-et-Loire), with its recollections of the
+wonderful passage of the Loire by the Vendean army, so graphically related
+by Madame de la Rochejacquelin, and near the island of Meilleraie, where
+their brave General Bonchamps expired, after the fatal engagement of
+Chollet; his last act being the saving the lives of four thousand
+prisoners shut up in the church, and about to be executed by the
+exasperated Vendeans. "Grace aux prisonniers" were his dying words.
+Opposite St. Florent is Varades, where the Vendeans landed after crossing
+the Loire. Only a feeble post opposed them. Had the republicans lost less
+time, and sent a force after their victory at Chollet, much calamity would
+have been spared to Brittany, and the Royalists themselves would have been
+saved the terrible defeats of Le Mans and Savenay.
+
+Passing Ancenis, which rises in an amphitheatre on the vine-clothed hills,
+and, with its suspension-bridge, is one of the most picturesque points in
+the river, we reached Oudon, with its tall octagonal tower; on the left,
+in the department of Maine-et-Loire, nearly opposite, stands the ruined
+castle of Champtoceaux, where Duke John V. was kept a prisoner by the
+implacable enemies of his house, the Penthievre family.
+
+Marguerite de Clisson, widow of Jean de Bretagne, Comte de Penthievre,
+lived in retirement in her stately fortress of Champtoceaux, with her
+three sons, Oliver, Count of Blois, and his brothers. Marguerite inherited
+the pride, hatred, and cruelty, of her father, without his chivalrous
+loyalty and magnanimity. The kingdom was filled with troubles, and she
+thought it a favourable moment for reviving the pretensions of her family.
+John V. held his court at Nantes. She sent Oliver there to assure the Duke
+that his mother and brother were ready to do him homage; and he swore, on
+his own part, "de le servir envers et contre tous ceux qui peuvent vivre
+et mourir." John, delighted, made the young man share his bed, and treated
+him with the greatest distinction. Oliver expressed his regret that the
+age and infirmities of his mother prevented her going to court, and
+timidly insinuated the honour she would feel at a visit from the Duke. The
+Duke consented, and, sending off his plate to Champtoceaux, started with
+his brother-in-law, Count Oliver, and his attendants. Having passed the
+little river which separates Anjou from Brittany, they saw a man throwing
+the planks of the bridge into the water, and thus preventing the Duke's
+suite from following. At the same time, Charles de Penthievre, Margaret's
+second son, issued suddenly from a wood with an escort of lances and
+surrounded the Duke. There was no kind of indignity they did not make him
+suffer. He was tied upon his horse like a criminal, and conducted first to
+Clisson, Oliver leading him with a halter round his neck. The Penthievres,
+who would not let the place be guessed where they held their captive,
+conducted him at night, sometimes on foot, from fortress to fortress, from
+dungeon to dungeon; at the same time circulating the report that they had
+drowned him in the Loire. As a last insult, they took him to Champtoceaux,
+where Marguerite visited him in prison to exult over his misfortunes.
+Meantime the Breton barons, indignant at the treason of which their
+Sovereign was the victim, raised an army for his deliverance, and civil
+war broke out with redoubled fury. His heroic wife, Jeanne de France,
+showed an untiring energy to save him. Undaunted by the threats of the
+Penthievres,--who sent word to her, if she did not desist from hostilities
+they would cut her husband in pieces, nor by the messages from the Duke
+himself assuring her that her zeal would cost him his life,--she induced
+her brother, the Dauphin, to order the Penthievres not to attempt the life
+of their prisoner; she besieged, one after the other, all their castles,
+and at last compelled Marguerite to capitulate to save her own life.
+Finding herself and family in a perilous position, Marguerite agreed that
+the Duke should be released (he was at Clisson), and that she and her sons
+should retire where they wished, on their promise to appear at the summons
+of the Breton nobles. Immediately on his liberation, Duke John ordered the
+destruction of Champtoceaux. A parliament assembled at Vannes in 1424,
+condemned Marguerite and her sons to capital punishment, and declared all
+the Penthievre possessions to be forfeited to the State. But the culprits
+had all escaped the kingdom, except the youngest son, William, a child
+only ten years of age, who had been given as a hostage for the appearance
+of his mother and brothers, and was condemned to languish for twenty-seven
+years in prison, where he lost his eyesight--a victim to crimes in which he
+had not been an accomplice. John had made a vow, during his detention, to
+give, if he regained his liberty, to the church of Notre Dame at Nantes,
+his weight in gold; and most conscientiously did he perform his promise,
+for we read, "He placed himself in his war armour in the balance, and
+caused the opposite scale to be filled with gold till it had attained the
+weight of the first; that is to say, three hundred and eighty marks, seven
+ounces"--which sum was delivered over to the church. Vows of this nature
+are not unfrequently recorded. When Don Carlos, the ill-fated son of
+Philip II., lay ill, he vowed to give to the Virgin, on his recovery, four
+times his weight in gold plate, and seven times his weight in silver. The
+vow was fulfilled; but the Prince was placed in the scale in a damask robe
+and fur coat, and weighed only seventy-six pounds--so much was he reduced
+by his long illness.
+
+Nantes is a cheerful, busy, handsome city, but wanting in the picturesque
+characteristics of the towns of Lower Brittany. Quimper, Vannes, Rennes,
+and Nantes, have all been successively capitals of the duchy, but Nantes
+was the usual residence of its dukes.
+
+The cathedral contains its principal artistic monument, the tomb of Duke
+Francis II. and his second wife, Marguerite de Foix, called "sein de lys,"
+from the beauty of her complexion. It was erected by their daughter, the
+Queen-Duchess Anne, and was executed by Michel Colomb, a sculptor of St.
+Pol de Leon, originally a herd-boy. This monument, considered a
+masterpiece of the Renaissance, is not copied from any Italian original,
+but is entirely the offspring of the artist's own fancy. There is much
+simplicity in its design and execution. The tomb, about five feet high, is
+of white marble, diapered with ermine and the letter F. On a black slab
+repose the effigies of the Duke and Duchess, and at their feet are lying a
+lion and a greyhound, holding their several escutcheons. Four large
+allegorical figures are at each angle of the tomb, representing the
+cardinal virtues. Justice carries the book of the laws, and the sword by
+which she makes them respected. This figure is said to be the portrait of
+the Duchess Anne. Temperance, in a monastic dress, is characterised by a
+bit and a lantern. Prudence, double faced, holds a mirror and a compass,
+and has a serpent at her feet. This figure is in the costume of a peasant
+girl of St. Pol; the second face, that of an old man, is also in the dress
+of Lower Brittany. Strength or Fortitude, handsome, resolute, and calm,
+strangles a dragon with his grasp.
+
+Upon the principal sides of the tomb are the twelve Apostles, and below,
+in niches, sixteen mourners (pleureuses) in monastic habits, the faces and
+hands white, the rest of the body black. The beautiful attitude of these
+figures is much admired. Some are kneeling, others are seated--all in the
+attitude and expression of prayer. This monument was originally in the
+church of the Carmelites, whence it was transferred to the cathedral.
+
+Besides the remains of Duke Francis and his two wives, it formerly
+contained the heart of his daughter, the Queen-Duchess Anne, enshrined in
+a golden case in the form of a heart, surmounted by a crown, and
+surrounded by a cordeliere; but the tomb was rifled during the Reign of
+Terror. It now holds the remains of the Constable Duke Arthur III.
+
+Duke John IV. also died at Nantes, after his long eventful reign, having
+acquired a military glory which earned him the name of Conqueror, and
+equalled that of Du Guesclin and Clisson. Twice he lost and twice he
+regained his crown. He alienated Du Guesclin and his faithful subjects by
+his partiality to England. The Bretons rose, and he fled to Edward III.;
+but when Charles V. entered the duchy, with the intention of confiscating
+it to the crown of France, the Bretons all united to defend their
+nationality against the ambition of the French King, and recalled their
+Sovereign. So great was the enthusiasm on his arrival at St. Malo, that
+the nobles plunged into the water to approach his ship; and even the widow
+of his rival, Charles of Blois, went to welcome him. His cowardly attempt
+against the Constable Clisson again compromised his reputation, and was
+disgracefully avenged upon his son by the implacable daughter of Clisson.
+
+The old ducal castle still rises on the left bank of the river. It was
+here Anne of Brittany was born, and here she married, 1499, her old
+admirer, the chivalrous Duke of Orleans, then King Louis XII., according
+to her stipulation, that the King, "viendra l'espouser en sa maison de
+Nantes." Left at the age of eleven, by the death of her father, a prey to
+claimants to her hand, which carried with it the powerful duchy of
+Brittany, Anne was a prize worth a king's seeking, even at a time when
+there were so many other rich heiresses undisposed of--Mary of Burgundy,
+Elizabeth of York, Isabella of Castille, and Catherine de Foix. Anne is
+described as handsome, but slightly lame, generous, and gentle, but grave
+and proud in her demeanour. Louis XII. called her his "fiere Bretonne,"
+and allowed her the uncontrolled government of Brittany, "tout ainsi que
+si elle n'estoit point sa femme."
+
+Though the wife of two Kings of France, Anne never forgot the interests of
+her duchy, whose nationality she always strove to maintain with the
+pertinacity of a true Breton, and showed herself, by her spirit and
+independence, to be the most worthy of all her race to wear the ducal
+crown. Jean Marot addresses her as "Royne incomparable, deux fois
+devinement sacree, Anne Duchesse de Bretagne."
+
+Like most of the ladies of her age, Anne was an accomplished linguist. She
+understood Latin and Greek, and most of the European languages. She
+corresponded with her husband in Latin verse. Her letters, still extant,
+breathe the most tender affection. One, written to him (1499) during the
+Italian wars, begins, "Une epouse tendre et cherie ecrit a son epoux
+encore plus cheri, l'objet a la fois de ses regrets et de son estime,
+conduit par la gloire loin de sa patrie. Amante infortunee, il n'est pour
+elle aucun instant sans alarmes. Quel malheur affreux que celui d'etre
+prive d'un Prince que l'on aime, d'un Prince plus amant qu'epoux."
+
+It was in this castle that Henry IV. signed his celebrated Edict of
+Nantes, so fatally revoked by Louis XIV.
+
+The Duc de Mercoeur, when governor of Brittany, made Nantes a regular
+fortified town. Having married Marie de Luxembourg, heiress of the house
+of Penthievre, he sought to secure to himself the duchy of Brittany, while
+his brother, the Duke de Guise, aimed at the crown of France. Head of the
+League in that province, he looked upon it as a means of attaining his
+end: his wife joined him in his plans of ambition, and they by turns
+tyrannized and caressed the Nantais, amusing them with fetes, in which the
+Duchess condescended to dance with the townsfolk. For twenty years Mercoeur
+held the province; but a peace was eventually signed between him and Henry
+IV., through the mediation of Gabrielle d'Estrees, whose son Cesar de
+Vendome, then four years of age, was affianced to the Duke de Mercoeur's
+daughter, then only six.  When Henry IV. made his entry into Nantes after
+the pacification, he observed, on surveying the fortifications, "Ventre
+Saint Gris, les Ducs de Bretagne n'etaient pas de petits compagnons."
+
+Nantes has been the scene of many an act of vengeance on the part of the
+Kings of France.
+
+The Place du Bouffay, the place of execution, was the scene of the tragic
+death of the young Henri de Talleyrand, Comte de Chalais, executed by
+Louis XIII. for his part in the conspiracy which bears his name. Its
+object was the death of the Cardinal, and to place the crown on the head
+of the feeble Gaston, who was celebrating his marriage at Nantes at the
+time that his victim Chalais was paying the penalty of his crime.
+
+The restless, intriguing Cardinal de Retz was imprisoned in Nantes Castle
+during the minority of Louis XIV., and made a wonderful escape by letting
+himself down from the walls to the river, where a boat awaited him. It was
+also at Nantes that the same monarch caused Fouquet to be arrested, not,
+as alleged, for his malpractices in office, but because his ambition and
+pomp offended the pride of his royal master.
+
+For their part in the conspiracy of Cellamare, the Marquis de Poncallec
+and three other Breton gentlemen suffered on the Place du Bouffay, and the
+Vendean chief, La Charette, was also there shot in 1795.
+
+Not far from the castle is the Rue Haute du Chateau. At the Maison Juigny,
+in this street, the Duchesse de Berri was arrested, after having remained
+sixteen hours concealed in an aperture behind a chimney on the third
+floor, scarcely a foot and a half high and four feet long. The police,
+having information of her being in the house, through the treachery of a
+Jew, had made a fruitless search, but had left a watch behind. The
+soldiers lighted a fire in the chimney, and the Duchess, with her three
+attendants, sallied out, her dress completely scorched. They had endured
+the heat, but were unable to bear the suffocation.
+
+Nantes has some fine promenades and boulevards, planted with trees. In the
+Cours Saint Pierre and St. Andre are statues of the Duchess Anne and of
+the three Breton constables, Du Guesclin, Clisson, and Richmont.
+
+One of the leading characteristics of Nantes is its numerous bridges: a
+regular chain of them form a continuous line across the river and canals,
+and others unite the islands which form the suburbs to the town itself.
+
+The Museum contains a large collection of pictures, which the bequest of
+the Duke de Feltre (Marechal Clarke) has increased considerably. These
+consist mostly of sketches by Paul Delaroche, and the charming Italian
+subjects of Leopold Robert.
+
+"L'enfant charitable"--a nun on her deathbed embracing a child who is
+standing by her side, an angel behind--is a touching composition of Ary
+Schaeeffer. Another, by Paul Baudry, represents the death of Marat:
+Charlotte Corday's open, handsome face, looks incapable of the crime she
+has just perpetrated. There is one by Ziegler--Daniel in the lion's den--an
+angel staying the lions from molesting him. The atmosphere of light
+surrounding the angel is wonderful and unearthly. These two are in the
+general collection, together with numerous examples of the old masters.
+
+Near our hotel is one of the curiosities of Nantes, the Passage de la
+Pommeraye, consisting of three stories of iron galleries or arcades,
+uniting the Rue de Crebillon with the Rue de la Fosse. The second arcade
+communicates by a flight of stairs with the third, called the Galerie de
+la Fosse, opening upon the street of that name.
+
+The Garden of Plants is beautifully laid out; groves and avenues of
+magnolias in full flower, with rocks, waterfalls, rustic bridges, all most
+picturesquely disposed, making it one of the prettiest gardens and public
+promenades in France.
+
+We descended the Loire by steamer, passing by vast granite buildings,
+built as magazines for colonial imports, called Les Salorges, in front of
+which the horrible noyades of Carrier took place, and these warehouses
+served as a temporary place of confinement for the victims. We next
+steamed past the island of Indret, the great manufacture of steam-engines
+for the State. Here we landed some market women, in caps of the same form,
+with high combs, as those of clear muslin worn by the Nantaises, only of a
+coarse material, and edged with black. On the right was Coueron, where
+Duke Francis II. died in consequence of a fall from his horse. The battle
+of St. Aubin-du-Cormier had decided his fate and that of his daughters,--a
+humiliation from which he never recovered. His faithful friend Rieux, who
+commanded his army, defeated by the youthful Louis de la Tremouille; the
+chivalrous Louis of Orleans, a prisoner in an iron cage in the "Grosse
+Tour" at Bourges; and the safety of his daughters at the mercy of King
+Charles VIII., or worse, of his imperious sister, the Regent Anne de
+Beaujeu, who would have committed some act of spoliation, had not the
+Chancellor Rochefort saved the duchy by his integrity, declaring to Anne
+that "a conqueror without right is but an illustrious robber."
+
+At Les Pellerins, barges were loading with hay, and heaps of it standing
+on the river's edge ready for embarkation. On the left bank is Paimboeuf,
+where diligences run to Pornic, a favourite little watering-place south of
+the Loire.
+
+St. Nazaire is a bustling seaport town, now the point of departure of the
+transatlantic steamers for the West Indies and Mexico. A Mexican, in his
+picturesque costume, all the seams of his dress fringed with hanging
+silver buttons, was living in the same hotel with ourselves. St. Nazaire
+has now a large floating basin, opened in 1858, capable of holding 200
+ships of large size, and another is in course of construction.
+
+It was from St. Nazaire that Prince Charles, the young Pretender, sailed
+on the adventurous expedition of '45, furnished with a frigate and a ship
+of the line by Mr. Walsh, of Nantes. Among the noble cavaliers who had
+sacrificed everything to follow the Stuarts into exile was the Walsh
+family, originally from Ireland. They had shared the wandering fortunes of
+Charles II., returned with him at the Restoration to find the greater part
+of their property confiscated; but they did not hesitate to sacrifice the
+rest when James II. abdicated the throne, and a Walsh commanded the ship
+which carried the King to France. Sent on a secret mission to England, he
+was recognized, denounced, and arrested. James II. created him an Earl at
+St. Germain. Two of his sons had retired to St. Malo and Nantes, and
+engaged in commercial speculations, endeavouring thereby to restore the
+fortunes of their house. Commerce was strictly forbidden to the Breton
+nobles; but, when war or misfortune had reduced their fortunes, they were
+allowed to enter into commerce, or any other profession, without
+derogating from their rank, provided they first deposited their swords
+with the Parliament, to be again claimed when their circumstances were
+improved. All will remember the anecdote in the 'Sentimental Journey.' As
+a book, called 'The State of Nobility in Brittany,' published in 1681,
+sets forth: "When nobles are engaged in commerce, their noble blood
+sleeps; but when the derogatory works are over, it revives. It is never
+lost but in death." But to return to the Walsh family. One of the brothers
+had embarked the remains of his little fortune in the business of
+"armateur"--a kind of shipowner, or one who fits out and charters ships,
+and sometimes commands them himself--the profession of Jean Bart and Duguay
+Trouin.(23) It was to this Anthony Walsh, and a banker of Dunkirk, that
+Prince Charles addressed himself to fit out an old worm-eaten seventy-gun
+man-of-war, the 'Elizabeth,' they had just obtained from Government for
+his expedition. True to the hereditary loyalty of his family, Mr. Walsh
+not only devoted all he possessed to the armament of the frigate, but also
+fitted out a brig, called the 'Doutelle'--both intended as privateers to
+cruise against the English--and took the command of her himself. On the
+28th June, 1745, furnished with about 4000l. of money, Charles Edward
+embarked on the Loire, in a fisherman's boat, to join the 'Doutelle' at
+St. Nazaire, and the 'Elizabeth' at Belle-Isle. He passed for a young
+Irish priest, and wore the habit of a student of the Scots' College at
+Paris. The ships encountered an English man-of-war, the 'Lion.' At the
+sound of the first shot, the Prince rushed on deck and asked for a sword.
+Mr. Walsh, by virtue of his authority as captain, took him by the arm and
+said to him sternly, "M. Abbe, your place is not here; go below with the
+passengers." The Prince obeyed, night separated the combatants, and on the
+18th of July he was safely landed in Scotland. On Michaelmas Day, the
+following year, the disasters of Culloden again threw him an exile on the
+shores of Brittany.
+
+From St. Nazaire we took a carriage for Guerande, to visit that remarkable
+district called the Canton de Croisic, and consisting chiefly of that
+place and the Bourg de Batz. We first came to Escoublac, a corruption of
+Episcopi lacus, deriving its name from a lake belonging to the bishop of
+the diocese.
+
+The old town has been entirely buried by the moving sands which have blown
+over it, and, in 1779, its inhabitants transferred their houses to the
+present site. Hills of sand surround it in every direction.
+
+Here we left the high road, and turned off to the left to Poulignan, a
+little white bay, as its name implies; a charming retreat, with beautiful
+white sands and picturesque rocks. This is a favourite watering-place with
+the Nantais. Its whole population appeared to be in the water. A row of
+small wooden chalets are built along the shore for the bathers, no
+machines are used.
+
+From Escoublac begins the large extent of salt-pans in which consist the
+riches of this country. They reach to Batz and Le Croisic, the peninsula
+which forms this district having formerly been an island which gradually
+has been transformed into a marsh.
+
+[Illustration: 44. Salt-pans, with Le Croisic in the distance.]
+
+These salt-pans, cut out into small squares, have the appearance of one
+great chess-board, interspersed with occasional hamlets and woods. The
+working of them employs the whole population of the district.
+
+They consist of large basins, dug at different depths, into which the
+water of the sea is introduced, and are divided into squares called
+"oeillets." The salt-water is turned upon the marsh by canals styled
+"etiers," edged with narrow paths or roads called "bossis," elevated, some
+of them, three or four feet above the marsh; on these the newly collected
+salt is generally laid. The water passes by a subterranean conduit, the
+"coef," into the "vasiere," where the first evaporation takes place; and
+then successively into the "cobiers," "fares," and "adernemetres," until
+it flows finally into the "oeillets," where the salt is definitively
+formed. Each "oeillet" is about 20 feet by 30.  The heat of the sun and the
+wind effect the evaporation, which the paludier assists by stirring the
+water from time to time. The salt which forms on the surface resembles a
+kind of white cream, and exhales an agreeable perfume resembling violets.
+This is the finest salt; that which falls to the bottom of the salt-pan is
+of a greyish cast. The salt when formed is then scraped off, drained, and
+the women collect it and stack it on the "bossis" into conical heaps,
+which they cover with a coating of clay, to render them impervious to
+weather. In the salting season, the salt marshes with their innumerable
+hillocks of white salt have the appearance of a vast tent-covered camp.
+Each "oeillet" produces about 150 lbs. of salt. The same salt-pans are
+worked from century to century by the same "paludiers" or their
+descendants. The proprietors may change, but the workmen remain,
+considering the salt-pans their prescriptive inheritance. For payment,
+they receive one-fourth of the salt. The dress of the paludier is a
+smock-frock of irreproachable whiteness, with pockets, white shoes,
+gaiters, and linen breeches, an enormous black flap hat turned up on the
+side in a point or horn. The young man wears the point over the ear, the
+married turns it behind, and the widower in front. We reached the Bourg de
+Batz in time for vespers, and had an opportunity of seeing the people in
+their Sunday dress. The men wear three or four cloth waistcoats, all of
+different lengths, so as to let the various colours, red, white, and blue,
+with which they are bound, appear one above the other in tiers, a muslin
+turnover collar, full plaited breeches of fine cloth tied at the knee by
+garters of floating ribbon, white woollen stockings with worked clocks and
+light yellow shoes, their flap hats ornamented with a roll of chenille of
+varied colours. The headdress of the women is singular and most intricate.
+The hair, in two rolls, twisted round with white tape, forms a kind of
+coronet across their heads; over this, a piece of net is drawn tight,
+forming a sort of cap, describing a peak behind, and crossing in front
+like a handkerchief.
+
+[Illustration: 45. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his working dress.]
+
+The dress consists of several petticoats of cloth plaited, red body,
+turned-up sleeves, and large coloured bibs or plastrons which they call
+"pieces," of the same stuff as their dresses. The girls' aprons are plain,
+without pockets, but the women's are of coloured silk, some of a rich
+brocade. A shawl with fringed border completes the costume. Some of the
+women had their heads and shoulders wrapped up in a triangular, black,
+shaggy sheepskin mantle; these were widows.
+
+At the inn where we alighted, they keep the splendid costumes worn by the
+people at weddings and other great occasions; and, by paying them for
+their trouble, they will put them on for inspection. The bride's costumes
+are of great magnificence; they array themselves in three different
+dresses on their wedding-day. First, a gown of white velvet, with apron of
+moire antique; secondly, one of violet velvet; and the third equally
+costly. Embroidered sleeves, the "piece" of cloth of gold, the petticoats
+looped up with a wide sash, embroidered in gold, and gold clocks to the
+stockings.
+
+[Illustration: 46. Paludier of the Bourg de Batz, in his wedding dress.]
+
+We were shown a state bed, or "lit de mariage," a tall four-post, painted
+red, with green reps tester and curtains, embroidered with yellow
+chenille. The great sign of wealth is to have the bedding reach to the top
+of the bedstead.  To effect this, the base is formed of bundles of
+vine-stalks, over which is spread the straw, and when this scaffolding has
+been raised some feet, a paillasse is placed over it, then the
+feather-bed, so that it literally requires a ladder to ascend to the top
+of this mountain of bedding, and then it is difficult to crawl into it.
+There were a bolster and two pillows covered with velvet, which, with the
+sheets, were all trimmed with a kind of lace or cutwork.
+
+The houses are solidly built of granite, and slated; the windows large.
+The furniture is good, generally comprising a well-waxed carved oak
+armoire, upon which are arranged earthenware plates of various colours.
+
+The paludiers of Batz preserve their original type distinct from the
+peasants of the environs; and form, like the Jews, a separate people,
+intermarrying among themselves, retaining their own peculiar manners and
+customs. They are supposed to descend from a Saxon colony. The paludier is
+tall in stature; their women remarkable for their fair complexions, which
+contrast strongly with their sunburnt neighbours. They are loyal and
+devout, true to their word, courageous and enduring; though the paludier
+is miserably poor, from the oppressiveness of the salt-tax, he never
+complains. Begging is unknown. Their food consists of rye bread, porridge
+of black corn, potatoes, and shellfish. They are sober, and drink wine in
+small quantities.
+
+Formerly the salt was distributed over the adjacent provinces by means of
+"saulniers," the journeymen labourers of the paludiers. Dressed in their
+picturesque costume, with a train of mules, whose tinkling bells announced
+their arrival, the saulnier was welcomed in every village where he sold
+his salt or exchanged it for other merchandize. "Le sucre des pauvres," as
+salt has been aptly called, was severely taxed under the old regime;
+distributions of the "sel royale" were yearly made by the Government among
+the gentry of the provinces, but the poor, who had no such privileges,
+severely felt the oppression, and smuggling was consequently extensively
+carried on, and the "faux saulnier," with his double bag across his
+shoulders, secretly sold salt upon which the gabelle had not been paid.
+With a faux saulnier originated the great peasant rising in Brittany, the
+Chouan war; a war to which Napoleon said, "All preceding wars have been
+but games." Jean, father of the four brothers Cottereau, was a maker of
+wooden shoes, and lived in a forest near Laval (Maine). From his solitary
+life he had acquired such sombre, wild, melancholy habits, that people
+gave him the name of Chouan, Maine patois for Chat-huant, and his family
+received the sobriquet long before the insurrection of 1792. Jean
+Cottereau was the most celebrated faux saulnier of Maine; he had
+accidentally killed a revenue officer in one of his encounters, and his
+heroic mother made a journey to Versailles, barefooted, "sur le cuir de
+ses pieds," to obtain his pardon. Jean's master and patron was
+guillotined, his two sisters shared the same fate, and one of his brothers
+died of his wounds, and his body was disinterred by the Revolutionists.
+These personal wrongs, the treatment of the King, the interdiction of the
+Catholic religion, its processions, its bells, the persecution of its
+ministers, all goaded the Breton peasantry to revolt; and Jean was the
+first to fire a gun against a Republican at the cry of "Vive le Roi." The
+rising began with a few peasants, armed with a gun or a stick, dressed in
+short breeches open at the knee, with leather gaiters, and coloured
+garters; their long hair streaming over the shoulders, their heads covered
+with a wide-brimmed hat, or brown or red cap, sabots tipped with iron,
+and, in cold weather, a loose coat of goatskin. The Chouans assembled in
+small bands and attacked the Republicans at night in ambuscade, and when
+they had killed a few "Bleus" disappeared among the corn-fields or the
+furze-bushes. Simple peasants, they fought against the Republicans in
+defence of the altar and the throne. Their "commandements" ran thus:--
+
+
+    "Ton Dieu, ton Roy, tu serviras
+    Jusqu'a la mort fidelement.
+    Docile a tes chefs tu seras,
+    Afin de vaincre surement.
+    Sobre et discret te montreras,
+    Buvant peu, parlant rarement;
+    De ton chef jamais n'agiras
+    Attendant le commandement;
+    Violemment rien ne prendras,
+    Mais en payant exactement.
+    Age et sexe respecteras,
+    Etant soldat et non brigand.
+    Les comites corrigeras,
+    Et les mouchards chretiennement;
+    Ne Breton, tu n'oublieras,
+    Afin d'agir loyalement.
+    Dans le succes clement seras;
+    Dans le malheur, ferme et constant.
+    Chaque jour ton Dieu tu prieras;
+    Que peux tu sans son bras puissant?"
+
+
+Such were the first Chouans: they had no organisation until they followed
+Larochejaquelin and the Vendean army to Granville, and accompanied them in
+their retreat; when their numbers were materially increased and their
+character completely changed by the deserters and brigands, who joined and
+eventually succeeded the peasantry.
+
+The church of Batz is of cut stone. It has a square tower, surmounted by a
+cupola steeple, which with that of Le Croisic serves as a landmark to
+vessels having to steer between the two dangerous rocks Le Four, in front
+of Le Croisic, and Les Blanches, situated near the mouth of the Loire.
+
+The choir is inclined, like that of St. Pol and others in Brittany. On one
+of the bosses in the interior is a grotesque carving of a man torn to
+pieces by the seven capital sins. On others are the Santa Veronica, the
+Good Shepherd, Ste. Barbara, &c. Near the church are the pretty ruins of
+the chapel of Notre Dame-du-Murier.
+
+We drove on to Le Croisic, in Breton, "Little Cross;" so called from the
+small chapel of the Crucifix, built to commemorate the baptism by St.
+Felix, Bishop of Nantes, in the sixth century, of the Saxon colony who
+occupied the peninsula. Le Croisic was one of the first towns in Brittany
+which received Christianity, and bears for its arms a cross between four
+ermines. Along the road-side are cisterns or wells dug in the sand, and
+girls were filling with water the classical stone pitchers they carried
+upon their heads--quite an Eastern picture, suggestive of Rebecca and the
+damsels of her country. Le Croisic is almost surrounded by the sea, low,
+and without shelter, which renders it cold, damp, and exposed to the
+winds; turf is almost the only fuel used.
+
+It is much frequented as a watering-place, and has an Etablissement. It is
+also a sea-port, with a rocky entrance to the harbour, and the dangerous
+rock with its lighthouse, called Le Four, extending for a league in front.
+The inhabitants of Le Croisic are principally engaged in the sardine
+fishery, and the curing of these fish consumes much of the salt of the
+marshes. The people complain this year they have no large orders for
+sardines, and there is but little white salt.
+
+The chapel of St. Goustan, on the edge of the harbour, is singularly
+built; its western gable perched upon a little rock, half of which is
+inside and half outside the building. The church is no longer open for
+Divine service; but the peasant-girl who desires to know if she will be
+married this year, tries to pass a pin through the bars of the northern
+window without touching the wall. On the opposite side of the estuary are
+Periac and La Turbale, both seats of the sardine fishery. Returning the
+way we came, we stopped at the Plage Valentin, another bathing-place in a
+pretty little bay; with dressing-rooms and a small Etablissement. An
+omnibus conveys the bathers from Le Croisic, for two sous. The sea looks
+more inviting here and at Poulignan than at Le Croisic, where there is so
+much seaweed in the harbour. We returned through Batz; the cathedral tower
+of Saint Aubin at Guerande is to be seen at a great distance, and is a
+prominent object in the scenery; the whole country is covered with
+salt-pans. Guerande stands on a height, and turning back, the view of the
+whole district is most extensive. We passed through Saille, where Duke
+John IV. married Joan of Navarre, afterwards the second wife of Henry of
+Lancaster.
+
+Guerande, built on a vine-covered granite slope, is a singular old feudal
+town of the fifteenth century. It was fortified by Duke John V., and is
+nearly surrounded by granite walls, with ten towers and four old gateways,
+placed at the cardinal points of the compass. St. Michel, the principal
+gate, or rather a fortress, is flanked by two high towers, and contains
+the prison, archives, and hotel de ville. A moat formerly surrounded the
+walls; but it has long been filled in, and boulevards substituted. From
+the battlements hang festoons of honeysuckle and ivy, and the moat is full
+of the yellow iris and water-lilies; nevertheless, Guerande has an
+austere, sombre aspect. There is a fine terrace walk, called the Mail,
+commanding a view of the whole country over Poulignan, Batz, and Le
+Croisic--a tented plain of salt.
+
+[Illustration: 47. La Roche Bernard.]
+
+The church of St. Aubin has Romanesque columns, with grotesque capitals.
+In one, two persons are sawing a third, stretched upon a wheel. On the
+left of the double-arched porch, is a pulpit outside the church, and there
+is some good painted glass within. Notre Dame Blanche, a chapel of the
+fourteenth century, is a pretty little building with stone pulpit and a
+sculptured group of Notre Dame-de-la-Salette with the two peasant children
+of Alsace. Next day, we took a private carriage for La Roche Bernard; the
+road lying over a wide extent of land through Herbignac to La Roche
+Bernard (Morbihan), which is most picturesquely situated on a rocky height
+overhanging the Vilaine, here traversed by an elegant suspension-bridge,
+opened in 1839, about 666 feet long and above 108 feet above high-water
+mark--a terrible dizzy height to cross even in calm weather. A few years
+since, the postman, his cart, and horse were all blown over into the
+river, and nothing more was ever heard of them. We went fishing several
+days in a large etang close to La Roche Bernard, and one evening took a
+pretty walk over the hills to another pond situated in a lovely secluded
+valley near a water-mill. La Roche Bernard was an early Protestant colony,
+founded by the Sieur d'Andelot, Seigneur of La Roche Bernard, brother to
+Admiral Coligny, and one of the firmest supporters of Calvinism. The
+Calvinists used to assemble at his chateau of Bretesch, where the minister
+of La Roche Bernard came to preach to them. D'Andelot and his sister, who
+was equally zealous in the cause, are, it is said, interred at La Roche
+Bernard. Near the Halles is a square block of houses; one of timber, with
+"Voie au Duc" inscribed upon it. These houses are said to have belonged to
+a Protestant community, and all to communicate with each other.
+
+The evening of our arrival there was a wedding supper given at our hotel,
+the grand dinner having taken place elsewhere. The bride wore a white
+sash, with wreaths of white flowers round her Nantais cap. After supper
+the party danced Breton "ronds." The dancers form a large ring (grand
+rond), holding each other's hands, which they swing violently as they
+sidle round in a kind of hop-skip-and-a-jump step, accompanied by singing
+in a most monotonous tone. This went on until midnight. This kind of dance
+dates, they say, from Celtic times. The music consists of the biniou or
+bagpipe, and the flageolet or hautboy, sometimes with the addition of a
+drum. The biniou, cornemuse, or bagpipe, is the national instrument of
+western and southern France. How it came to be introduced into Scotland
+and expel the harp--which was as much the original music of Scotland as of
+Wales and Ireland--is a mystery. But, as in the sixteenth century the harp
+went out and the bagpipes came into fashion, it may be surmised that it
+was brought in, with other French novelties, on the return of Queen Mary,
+perhaps by the Queen herself, or, maybe, some itinerant player of the
+cornemuse may have accidentally been in her train, and his music set a
+fashion which has now become national.
+
+On market-day numbers of the women from Muzillac, a place about ten miles
+distant, came in with their fruit. They all wear an enormous plaited black
+cap, which looks like the cowl of a friar. The graceful form of the
+earthenware pots attracted our attention: probably they came from the
+adjacent town of Herbignac. The 15th August, Fete de la Vierge, and also
+that of the Emperor, was kept as a general holiday. An immense concourse
+of people arrived from the neighbourhood, and attended the six o'clock
+mass. We walked to the quay, to see the sports on the water; the
+spectators picturesquely grouped on a mass of bare rocks, commanding a
+pretty view up and down the river.
+
+The amusements consisted of some races, and a mat de cocagne, or greased
+pole, placed horizontally over the river; the feat being to walk safely to
+the end, where the prize was fixed, without falling into the water. In the
+evening "ronds" were danced, and every house had illuminations, in the
+shape of a candle stuck in a potato, and placed on each end of the window
+sill.
+
+Next day we left by diligence for Vannes, passing through Muzillac and on
+to Auray, where we took the steamer for Belle Isle.
+
+A steamer sails daily from the quay at Auray. The banks of the River Loch
+are very picturesque, the pine-trees (_Pinus maritima_) growing to the
+water's edge. On the left, the islands of the Morbihan; on the right,
+Locmariaker; the view extending to Carnac and Mont St. Michel, over the
+whole sweep of the bay formed by the peninsula of Quiberon.
+
+At Port Navalo we emerged from the Morbihan, and, on our right, passed the
+little rocky island of Teigneuse, with its lighthouse; and, on the left,
+those of Houat and Haedik (the duck and the duckling); the former famous
+as the retreat of St. Gildas, who leaped from here with one bound, a
+distance of ten miles, to the peninsula of Rhuys, where he built his
+monastery. From Auray to Belle Isle is in all forty-eight miles--ten miles
+of river to Port Navalo, the rest open sea. After eight hours' sail we
+reached Le Palais, the port and principal town of Belle Isle, built on the
+north-east side, and overhung by the citadel, the work of Vauban. The town
+consists of one principal street--the Rue Trochu--so called after the
+General of that name and his brother, who were the first, at the beginning
+of this century, to introduce agriculture into the island. We passed, at a
+distance to the right, the model farm of M. Trochu fils, on our way across
+the island to the lighthouse,--a cheerless drive, as there are no trees to
+be seen except near Le Palais. When M. Trochu commenced his labours,
+agriculture was little attended to in France, but he persevered in his
+exertions, beginning by clearing about sixty acres of granite rock, a land
+covered with heath and furze, setting at defiance the Breton saying,
+"Lande tu fus, lande tu es, lande tu seras." This same district is now
+covered with rich meadows, fine woods, productive arable fields, and
+magnificent pasture land, on which horses are extensively reared.
+
+[Illustration: 48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle.]
+
+We gathered on the heathy moor three kinds of heath, the Cornish among
+others. The artichoke grows wild in the waste grounds. Wheat, turnips,
+beetroot, Indian corn, and potatoes, are the chief produce of the land in
+cultivation. This last vegetable was introduced by the families from Nova
+Scotia (Acadia), who settled in Belle Isle, after that province was ceded
+to England by the Treaty of Paris, in 1766. This was several years before
+Parmentier had extended the use of the potato, or "truffe rouge," as it
+was first called, over other parts of France. Indian corn was probably
+also brought in by the Nova Scotians. The leaves are constantly cut during
+its growth as fodder for the cattle, so that the cob hardly attains a foot
+in height from the ground. On the left of our road we saw in the distance
+the village of Bangor, which gives its name to one of the four districts
+into which Belle Isle is divided. A little south is the fine granite
+lighthouse, of the stupendous height of 450 feet. We toiled up 255 steps
+(223 stone and 32 iron) before we gained the lantern, and, though the view
+was very extensive, we were rejoiced at finding ourselves safe down. One
+of the guardians had been waylaid, kicked, and beaten, a few evenings
+before, for some slight grudge. He seemed in great suffering, but had no
+doctor; the Breton, in his simple confiding faith--that with the Almighty
+are the issues of life and death, and that illness will end according to
+His decree--considers the calling in of a medical adviser but an
+unnecessary expense to his family. From the lighthouse we walked to the
+sea-shore. Belle Isle is a table-land, surrounded by steep cliffs,
+averaging 130 feet in height, which can only be descended to the shore in
+particular places. We walked to the Grotte du Port Coton, where begins the
+"Mer Sauvage," as it is called, an extent of five to six miles of most
+picturesque rocks, some elevated from 130 to 160 feet above the level of
+the sea, jagged and torn into most fantastic forms by the ceaseless
+dashing of the waters of the Atlantic, which have formed various grottoes
+in the cliffs. We descended into one of these caverns by a narrow gulley,
+but could not proceed far, as the tide was entering fast, and would soon
+have surrounded us, cutting off all means of retreat.
+
+[Illustration: 49. Device of Fouquet.]
+
+It reminded us of the description in the 'Vicomte de Bragelonne' of the
+grotto at Locmaria, which was blown up, and crushed the mousquetaire
+Porthos, at the moment of his and Aramis' triumph over the soldiers of the
+King. So great at times is the fury of the waves, that our guide at the
+lighthouse told us he had seen on several occasions the spray driven over
+to Le Palais, nearly five miles distant. Continuing our walk along the
+cliffs, we came to an enormous mass of rock, standing far out detached
+from the cliff, and covered with screaming sea-gulls. We again descended
+by another fissure into a pretty sandy cove, surrounded by the same wild
+granite rocks; but in most places there is no beach at all. It was now
+high water, so it was useless to attempt the Grotte des Apothecaires,--the
+finest, they say, of them all, and we returned to Le Palais well pleased
+with the remarkably wild coast we had seen. Belle-isle forms now a canton
+in the department of Morbihan. In ancient days it belonged to the Abbot of
+Saint-Croix, at Quimperle, who sold it, in the time of Charles IX., to the
+Marechal de Gondi, and, in 1573, it was erected into a Marquisate.
+(Cardinal de Retz lived here after his escape from the castle of Nantes.)
+One of his successors, Henri de Gondi, being overwhelmed with debt, sold
+the island to Nicolas Fouquet, the ill-fated Superintendent of Finance, on
+whose disgrace, and his being subsequently consigned to the fortress of
+Pignarol, his grandson, the Marquis de Belle Isle, exchanged it with Louis
+XV. for the Comte of Gisors, erected into a duchy in 1742. Fouquet built a
+palace and completed the citadel, for which he employed Vauban. He also
+projected fortifications to enclose the town, which are now in course of
+completion by the Emperor, after Vauban's plans. Several guns had just
+been landed, the day before we visited the citadel, to see which an order
+is requisite. Near the citadel is the "Maison centrale des detenus," now
+only containing a few old men, too feeble for hard labour. We were too
+tired to walk to look at the celebrated cistern of Vauban, which holds, we
+were told, above thirty thousand imperial gallons of water. Fouquet's
+palace was, it is said, destroyed to complete the line of fortifications.
+A house was pointed out to us as having formed part of the original
+building. Some years since, a stone was picked up in the harbour bearing
+his ambitious device--a squirrel, with the motto, _Quo non ascendum?_ "To
+where shall I not rise?"  The greater number of the population of Belle
+Isle are employed in the fisheries; of these the sardine and the tunny are
+the chief. There are large establishments for curing sardines, which are
+very abundant, and lobsters, taken in the rocks of Belle Isle and the
+little islands of Houat and Haedic, are sent to London and Paris. The boats
+go as far as Spain, to the coast of Catalonia, for the tunny fishery,
+which extends from August to the beginning of October. These fish are
+taken by lines hung along the sides of the vessel, with a bell attached to
+each to give notice of a bite. The most esteemed part of the tunny is the
+underneath, or "panse." The next morning we sailed back to Auray. The
+nearest point to Belle Isle is Quiberon, only ten miles from Le Palais.
+From Auray by rail to Quimper, where we took the diligence to Pont l'Abbe,
+an old town formerly of some importance, in the midst of a fertile, rich
+country. The costume worn at Pont l'Abbe and along the Bay of Audierne is
+very singular. The cap, or "bigouden," is composed of two pieces: first, a
+kind of skull-cap, or serre-tete, fitting tight to the head over the ears,
+then a little round bit, resembling, the young people said, a "pork-pie"
+hat, made of starched linen, pinched into a three-cornered peak, the
+middle peak embroidered and tied on by a piece of tape fastening under the
+chin; the hair is turned up, "en chignon," over the skull-cap. The body of
+the dress has a large "piece" of red or yellow, and sleeves to match. The
+men wear several very short coats, one over the other, the shortest
+trimmed with fringe; sometimes sentences are embroidered with coloured
+woollens round the edge. It was market day; the women were sitting, with
+distaff and spindle, on each side of the entrance to the Halle. Some of
+them have short bead-chains with a ring, attached to the left shoulder, to
+stick their distaffs in when not at work. There was abundance of fruit and
+vegetables, potatoes, and sardines, which, with bigoudens and other
+articles of dress, formed the principal commodities for sale. Pont l'Abbe
+and its Port, Loctudy, carry on an extensive trade with Jersey, and large
+quantities of potatoes are exported to that island. There were some Jersey
+merchants at the table-d'hote.
+
+[Illustration: 50. Peasant Girl. Pont l'Abbe.]
+
+The church of Pont l'Abbe has only one aisle. There is a fine rose window
+over the west entrance, of great lightness and richness, with a smaller
+one at the left; at the east end is another rose window of larger
+dimensions, the mullions forming geometric patterns, but differing in
+design from the other. The French architects always took great pains in
+the decoration of this part of the church, and these wheel windows really
+rival those of Rouen.
+
+[Illustration: 51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy.]
+
+Attached to the church, are the cloisters of the Carmelite convent to
+which the church formerly belonged, built in the beginning of the
+fifteenth century by Bertram de Rosmadec, who had so much contributed to
+the completion of the cathedral at Quimper. The square is surrounded by an
+interlaced circular arcade, forming trefoiled pointed arches, all in
+excellent preservation. The access to the cloisters is through the
+conventual building, now a private house and garden, the proprietor kindly
+granting us permission.
+
+We drove to Loctudy, on the mouth of the Pont l'Abbe river opposite the
+little island of Tudy, called after an English saint of that name. Fleeing
+from the persecutions of the Picts and Scots who desolated his country, he
+founded here, at the end of the fifth century, a considerable monastery,
+afterwards destroyed by the Normans.
+
+At Loctudy is a curious Romanesque church, one of the best preserved in
+Brittany, which dates from the Templars of the twelfth century. It has a
+nave with aisles going all round the choir, and three round apsidal
+chapels at the end. The five arches on each side of the nave are
+horse-shoe shaped, and the choir is surrounded by the same number of high
+narrow arches, resting on columns with grotesque capitals of complicated
+design. The three chapels behind are seen through the opening; on one of
+the capitals is sculptured the cross of the Templars. The whole building
+is spoiled by whitewash.
+
+
+    "Chevaliers en ce monde cy
+    Ne peuvent vivre sans souci;
+    Ils doivent le peuple defendre,
+    Et leur sang pour la foi espandre."
+                    EUSTACHE DESCHAMPS.
+
+
+[Illustration: 52. Torche of Penmarch.]
+
+We engaged a rough kind of vehicle, much like a butcher's cart, to visit
+the Torche de Penmarch, a rocky promontory, so called from its fancied
+resemblance to a horse's head, forming the southern extremity of the
+department of Finistere. The Torche is a mass of rocks separated from the
+mainland by a chasm called the "Saut de Moine," because an Irish saint,
+named Viaud, jumped across it on his landing. In rough weather, the noise
+made by the sea dashing against its sides and rushing through the crevices
+of the rocks, is said to be heard at Quimper, a distance of twenty-one
+miles. A line of rocks runs all along the coast, marked by a lighthouse at
+Penmarch; we proceeded to another group of rocks near which M. de
+Chatellier, a proprietor and antiquary of this country, has built a house
+for painting and enjoying the scenery. One of our party clambered down to
+see the "Trou d'Enfer," a tremendously deep hole in the rocks, the bottom
+covered with a pink sort of sea-weed, and the water as clear as crystal.
+The whole country is a dreary sandy level, with salt-marshes, over which
+we passed to the ruined church of St. Fiacre, and close by is that of St.
+Guenole, both situated near the sea. The countryman who showed us the
+church, knelt reverently down at the threshold and put up a short prayer
+before he entered the sacred building. The general devoutness and strong
+faith of the Bretons is most impressive and genuine, mixed, no doubt, with
+great superstition; but, as Wesley says, "Heaven makes allowance for
+invincible ignorance, and blesses the faith notwithstanding the
+superstition."
+
+[Illustration: 53. Ship Sculptured on the Walls. Church of St. Guenole,
+Penmarch.]
+
+St. Guenole consists of an unfinished square tower, with crocketed
+pinnacles and a porch of considerable size, under a large mullioned window
+of the fifteenth century. On each side of the porch are rude sculptures of
+ships and fishes, not uncommon in these parts, set there to show the
+church has been built with the thank-offerings of the fisher population of
+the district. In our tour we met with several churches with this sign,
+evidences of the piety of the fishermen; indeed, at Dunkirk, when the
+church was burned down in the sixteenth century by the French, it was
+entirely rebuilt by the contribution called "le filet saint," from an
+ancient custom among the fishermen of having one net so called, the
+produce of which was set apart for the church.
+
+[Illustration: 54. Church of St. Guenole, Penmarch.]
+
+Towards the lighthouse are the ruins of the old town of Penmarch, much
+celebrated in the maritime history of the fourteenth to sixteenth
+centuries; its commerce extended even to Spain, and the riches of its
+inhabitants were so surpassingly great, that they drank out of silver
+cups, and the lords of a manor near the Torche furnished the silk required
+to line the road traversed by religious processions, their wealth being
+due to the "viande de careme," that is to say, to the cod fishery. But the
+discovery of Newfoundland deprived them of this lucrative monopoly, and
+the ravages of Fontenelle le Ligueur completed their ruin. All now is a
+scene of desolation. Penmarch has been called the Palmyra of Brittany.
+
+Guy Eder Fontenelle, the Leaguer, who spread terror and devastation
+throughout Brittany in the sixteenth century, was a member of the
+Beaumanoir family; the name he adopted was that of one of the family
+estates. He was born in the Chateau of Beaumanoir (near Evran), and his
+elder brother early foresaw his guilty career. He escaped from college and
+united himself with a set of young men as lawless as himself; they formed
+themselves into a band, which soon became the dread of all Brittany. They
+ravaged the whole of Treguier and Cornouaille, surprised the chateaux of
+Coetfrec and others, took the church of Carhaix, which they fortified, and
+the towns of Paimpol, Lannion, and Landerneau, which they pillaged,
+Penmarch and Pontcroix, whence they carried off an immense booty and 300
+vessels, with which they scoured the seas; and lastly, Douarnenez and the
+Island of Tristan (in 1595), whence fruitless attempts were made to
+dislodge them. For three years Fontenelle made this island his
+head-quarters, issuing from his stronghold to devastate the country. He
+murdered above fifteen hundred peasants at Plougastel, sank an English
+ship, without allowing her crew a moment to save themselves, imprisoned
+and tortured at Douarnenez all who fell into his hands. His victims never
+survived his cruelties more than three or four days, when their bodies
+were cast out into the bay to the fishes. These were only a few of his
+atrocities. As he called himself one of the leaders of the League in
+Brittany, the Duke de Mercoeur, its chief, indignant at the barbarities
+perpetrated in its name, caused Fontenelle to be imprisoned, but he was
+liberated on paying a ransom; and, fearing he would give Douarnenez over
+to the Spaniards, Fontenelle was included in the pacification of Mercoeur
+with Henry IV. But four years later he was implicated in the conspiracy of
+Biron; on which occasion all his old crimes were raked up against him, and
+he was condemned to be dragged on a hurdle, and broken alive upon the
+wheel, which sentence was executed on the Place de Greve at Paris in 1602.
+In consideration of the illustrious house to whom he belonged, the king
+granted that in the act of condemnation he should not go by his own name.
+We next went to see the church of Saint Nonna in the town, the largest of
+the numerous churches in the parish of Penmarch. Ships are sculptured in
+front of the tower, as at St. Guenole. On the left of the porch is a
+pretty window, the mullions formed by three fleur de lis. In the church is
+a curious old painting styled, "Procession du voeu de Louis XIII."
+Portraits of the King, the Dauphin (Louis XIV.), Anne of Austria, and
+Cardinal Richelieu, are introduced, and a view of the church of St. Nonna
+is in the background.
+
+[Illustration: 55. Fleur-de-Lise Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch.]
+
+On our way home we passed, on the left, at Kerscaven, two menhirs, one
+curiously furrowed and shaped like a half-opened fan.
+
+We had a pretty drive from Pont l'Abbe, with occasional views of the Bay
+of Audierne, extending from Penmarch to the Pointe du Raz. Midway the
+horse, going down a steep hill, fell, and we all found ourselves upon the
+road, but happily unhurt. We met numbers of peasants returning from the
+fair at Pontcroix; and our driver, a butcher by trade, coolly stopped the
+vehicle, to discourse with them on the price of stock, and to handle the
+sheep they had bought. Our drive was enlivened with occasional peeps of
+the Bay of Audierne till we reached the little port of that name, the view
+of which is very pretty. Audierne is approached by a bridge across the
+river or estuary. At its entrance is a lighthouse, and on the right a
+sandy bay, with bathing-machines in the season.
+
+[Illustration: 56. Pointe du Raz.]
+
+The town consists of three streets of cut granite houses, with the name of
+the builder and the date of their construction inscribed over the door.
+Fishing is the occupation of the inhabitants, and the table-d'hote at our
+comfortable, clean, little inn was plentifully supplied with magnificent
+john dorys, large red mullet, langoustes, and fish of every description.
+
+From Audierne we took a carriage to visit the Pointe du Raz, a promontory
+so famous for its rocks and wrecks. We went through a treeless country;
+near a pretty bay, on the left, is the chapel of Notre Dame-de-Bon-Voyage,
+destined chiefly for sailors, after which the country becomes more wild,
+barren, and cheerless. We passed over a bridge which no Breton would dare
+to cross at night, for fear of being flung by the spirits into the river.
+According to their belief, a hare appears on the bridge, and terrifies the
+horses, who throw their rider, and the traveller is dragged by the phantom
+into the muddy river, where he is kept till morning's dawn, when he is
+allowed to pursue his way, exhausted with cold, and half dead with fright.
+They are very superstitious here, as in all Cornouaille. A writer says,
+"every nation of the earth has its superstitions and absurdities, but
+Brittany has those of all other nations united." An old woman in a village
+hard by, said our driver, has never been seen inside the walls of a
+church; the people say she has sold herself to the evil one, and no one
+dares go near or speak to her.
+
+On the left is the pretty steeple of the church of Plogoff, situated on an
+eminence, and dedicated to Saint Colledoc, a Welsh bishop of the sixth
+century, contemporary of King Arthur, and associated with many of the
+doings of Queen Guinevre and the knights of the Round Table. Lescoff is
+the last village we passed through before--after driving over a barren
+plain--we arrived at the lighthouse, built thirty years back at the Pointe.
+
+We walked thence to the Pointe, a gigantic and magnificent mass of rocks,
+eighty feet above the level of the sea. We met with a good-natured woman,
+who led the young people over the rocks to look down the "Enfer de
+Plogoff." They had a slippery scramble to reach the hole, a kind of tunnel
+through which the sea rushes with great violence, so much more terrible
+than that of Penmarch, that the noise has been compared to the distant
+roaring of some thousands of wild beasts issuing from the depths of a
+forest. In the mean time, we remained seated on the bank enjoying the
+view. On the south lay the Bay of Audierne, extending in the form of a
+crescent, the promontories of Penmarch and Raz forming the extreme points.
+The currents, and the numerous rocks of the bay, render it a dangerous
+coast, formerly peopled by barbarous wreckers, who despoiled the
+shipwrecked mariners as our Cornish men of old. Opposite the Raz, about
+seven miles distant, is the Island of Sein, and to the right, the Baie des
+Trepasses. The island of Sein was anciently the seat of an oracle,
+interpreted by nine Druidesses, who were versed in every art and science.
+Moreover, they appear to have been accomplished needlewomen; for a Breton
+chronicler, giving an account of the coronation of an early king (Erech)
+at Nantes, describes his mantle as embroidered by these priestesses with
+figures of Arithmetic, Astronomy, and Music. Their skill in divination
+caused them to be associated with the fairies; and Morgan--_i.e._ "born of
+the sea"--one of these priestesses, who lived in the first century of the
+Christian era, was famous among the British fairies.
+
+
+    "Avec succes cultivait la magie,
+    Morgan de plus, etait assez jolie."
+
+
+Chateaubriand celebrates Velleda, the last of the Druidesses of Sein, tall
+in stature, her eyes blue, with long fair floating hair, dressed in a
+short black tunic, without sleeves, bearing a golden sickle suspended from
+a brazen girdle, and crowned with a branch of oak. Here King Arthur was
+brought by Merlin to recover of his wounds. The inhabitants of the island
+were celebrated for their ferocity as wreckers.
+
+The passage between the island and the point or Bec du Raz--"qu'aucun n'a
+passe sans mal ou sans crainte"--is very dangerous, owing to the number of
+rocks and the violence of the currents; hence the well-known prayer of the
+Breton sailor, "Mon Dieu, secourez-moi pour traverser le Raz, car mon
+navire est petit et la mer est grande." Having no wish to run the risk of
+being detained at the island by rough weather, we did not attempt the
+passage.
+
+The Baie des Trepasses, over which we looked on the right, is so called
+from the Celtic legend that the Druids embarked in this bay after their
+death, to be buried in the island of Sein:--
+
+
+    "Autrefois, un esprit venait, d'une voix forte;
+    Appeler chaque nuit un pecheur sur sa porte;
+    Arrive dans la baie, on trouvait un bateau
+    Si lourd et si charge de morts qu'il faisait eau,
+    Et pourtant il fallait, malgre vent et maree,
+    Les mener jusqu'a Sein, jusqu'a l'ile sacree."
+                    BRIZEUX.
+
+
+The bay also derives its name from the numerous shipwrecks that have taken
+place on its rocks, and from the number of corpses that have been floated
+there by the currents from ships foundered in the gulf comprised between
+the entrance of Brest, the Ouessant Islands, and Sein. The whole extent of
+the coast of Brittany is one long wall of rocks, placed as it were to
+protect it from the inroads of the sea and from foreign invasion. Heaped
+one over the other, they resemble the bastions of a citadel, the advanced
+rocks extending out to sea, jutting up in every direction in endless
+reefs. Or its line of coast may be compared to the jagged teeth of a comb,
+with a second line of defence in the rocks further out to sea.
+
+On the desolate shore of the Baie des Trepasses is a piece of water, the
+etang de Laoual, site of the city of Is--submerged by Divine vengeance,
+according to popular tradition, in the fifth century--a place of great
+commerce, arts, riches, and also of luxury. Gradlon, or Grallo, the king,
+alone attempted to stem the torrent. Built in the vast basin which now
+forms the Bay of Douarnenez, it was protected from the ocean by a strong
+dyke, the sluices only admitting sufficient water to supply the town. King
+Gradlon kept the silver key (which opened, at the same time, the great
+sluice and the city gates) suspended round his neck. His palace was of
+marble, cedar, and gold; in the midst of a brilliant Court sat enthroned
+his daughter Dahut, a princess who "had made a crown of her vices, and had
+taken for her pages the seven capital sins." Taking advantage of the sleep
+of her father, Dahut one night stole the silver key, and instead of
+opening the city gate, by mistake unlocked the sluices. The King was
+awakened by St. Guenole, who commanded him to flee, as the torrent was
+reaching the palace.  He mounted his horse, taking his worthless daughter
+behind him. The torrent was gaining upon him fast, when a voice from
+behind called out, "Throw the demon thou carriest into the sea, if thou
+dost not desire to perish." Dahut felt her strength failing her; the hands
+that convulsively grasped her father's waist relaxed their hold; she
+rolled into the water, disappeared, and the torrent immediately stopped
+its course. The King reached Quimper safe and sound, and that town became
+afterwards the capital of Cornouaille.
+
+So runs the legend. That a great city once existed in the Bay of
+Douarnenez admits of no doubt. Besides the religious chronicles of the
+country, which have preserved the memory of its existence, in the
+sixteenth century, remains of old edifices were standing at the entrance
+of the bay, old paved roads have been traced, and walls found under water
+near the Pointe du Raz.
+
+The tradition of a town thus swallowed up is common among the Celtic race.
+In Wales, the site of the submerged city is in Cardigan Bay; in Ireland,
+in Lough Neagh:--
+
+
+    "On Lough Neagh's banks, where the fisherman strays,
+            At the hour of eve's declining,
+    He sees the round towers of other days
+            Beneath the waters shining."--MOORE.
+
+
+One of our party went out fishing to the Pointe, and returned well laden
+with his spoils.
+
+[Illustration: 57. Front of the Church, Pontcroix.]
+
+The road from Audierne to Douarnenez passes by Pontcroix, a little town on
+the same river (Goazien) as Audierne, along which the road runs--a charming
+drive. It has a magnificent Romanesque church of the twelfth (probably of
+the fifteenth) century, with a remarkable porch, richly embroidered in
+quatrefoils and trefoils. A tower in the centre, with octagonal spire is
+second to none in Cornouaille, except that of Quimper. The arches of the
+nave are horseshoe, the transepts very narrow. Under the altar of the Lady
+Chapel is a "Cene," half the size of nature, sculptured in ivory and
+marble, of marvellous workmanship.
+
+[Illustration: 58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame de-Comfort, near
+Douarnenez.]
+
+Eleven miles from Douarnenez we stopped to see the pretty little chapel of
+Notre Dame-de-Comfort, in a hamlet of that name, with light open-work
+steeple. Attached to one of the arches, on the left of the choir, is a
+wooden wheel, hung round with bells, to which is attached a long string.
+It is erroneously called "the wheel of fortune;" but is, in fact, the old
+wheel of sacring bells in use before the single bell was adopted. The boy
+who showed us the chapel pulled the string which was fastened to a hook
+near the altar, and the wheel revolved and rang a merry peal. Formerly
+there was a little wooden figure attached to the wheel, which performed
+the same office. The road runs round a hill, along an estuary formed by
+the river, and suddenly the beautiful lake, called the Bay of Douarnenez,
+bursts on the sight, of a blue as lovely as the Italian seas.
+
+The dirty little town of Douarnenez is charmingly situated to the south of
+the bay, the hills clothed with trees to the water's edge. The Pointe du
+Raz forms the western boundary of the bay, and it is shut in to the north
+by the peninsula of Crozon; its extreme point, Pointe de la Chevre,
+advancing nearly midway into the bay. The tide here falls eighteen feet.
+The triple peaks of the Mene-Hom, one of the Montagnes Noires, is a
+prominent feature in the view. Islands are scattered over the gulf, and
+the island of Tristan, retreat of Fontenelle le Ligueur, is so close to
+Douarnenez, that it may be reached on foot at low water.
+
+The hotel was crammed, gentlemen sleeping on the billiard-table, or
+littered down in the room of the table-d'hote: the place was crowded. All
+the world had flocked in to assist at the Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue,
+which was to take place the following morning. No vehicle was to be had,
+and we were in despair of being able to go, when a good-natured voyageur
+kindly offered to drive us in his carriage--a proposal we thankfully
+accepted. In all our wanderings we had hitherto never been so fortunate as
+to see a Pardon, and we were very anxious to go.
+
+The Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue takes place the last Sunday in August,
+continuing three days, and is one of the most frequented in Finistere.
+
+[Illustration: 59. Costume of a Finistere Bride.]
+
+At Plonevez-Porzun we turned off the Crozon road, and about two miles
+further arrived at the chapel. The road all the way was lined with
+peasants walking to the Pardon. The young men of Douarnenez wear blue
+jackets, embroidered in colours, with rows of plated buttons, the sleeves
+and waistcoat of a darker blue than the jacket, scarlet sashes, some with
+plaited bragou bras and shining leather gaiters; but most of them wore
+trowsers, their hair long, and their hats with two or three rows of
+coloured variegated chenille. The women had square caps, and aprons with
+bibs. Those who were in mourning wore light yellow caps, called
+"bourladins," stained that colour with beeswax or saffron.
+
+St. Anne is a newly-built church, standing on the slope of a down which
+separates it from the sea, in a perfectly insulated situation. It is only
+opened once a year for the Pardon. Round it were erected numerous stalls,
+with toys, epinglettes, and rosaries (chapelets), in heaps for sale; for
+rosaries must always be purchased at the Pardon, to preserve the wearer
+from thunder and hydrophobia. The great fabric for them is at Angers,
+where they are made in immense quantities. In the principal manufactory a
+steam-engine is used for turning the beads; in the others the common
+lathe. One maker told us she sent annually into Brittany alone rosaries to
+the value of 800_l_. There were tents and booths erected for the
+accommodation of the pilgrims who had arrived the preceding day. They eat,
+drink, and dance in the tents by day, and sleep on the tables at night.
+
+At ten o'clock, at the ringing of a bell, a procession was formed,
+consisting of a long line of peasants, preceded by priests and banners,
+which made the round of the church; the penitents, en chemise to the
+waist, barefooted, carrying wax-tapers in their hands. The penance is
+sometimes executed by proxy: a rich sinner may, for a small sum, get his
+penance performed by another. One woman made the round of the church on
+her knees, telling her beads as she hobbled along. This was in performance
+of a vow made for some special deliverance.
+
+We proceeded to the top of the hill, from which the beautiful Bay of
+Douarnenez presented a most lively appearance; fleets of small boats
+arriving from every direction, and a huge steamer from Brest, which was
+obliged to land its passengers in small boats, on account of the
+shallowness of the water.
+
+The appearance of the downs now became very animated, covered with
+gaily-dressed peasants arranged in groups, sitting or lying on the grass,
+in every kind of attitude.
+
+At four o'clock the grand procession took place. First came the priests of
+all the surrounding districts, with the banners and crosses of their
+parishes; then followed five girls (three and two) in white, carrying a
+banner, and eight more in similar attire, bearing a statue of the Virgin.
+Next appeared the banner of Sainte Anne, carried by women in the gorgeous
+costume of the commune--gowns of cherry-coloured silk, trimmed half the way
+up with gold lace, a silver lace scarf, and aprons of gold tissue or rich
+silk brocade. Under their lace caps was a cap of gold or silver tissue.
+Four more of these superbly-dressed bearers ("porteuses") carried the
+statue of Ste. Anne.
+
+[Illustration: 60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue.]
+
+Girls carrying blue flags walked by their side. Troops of barefooted
+penitents and shaggy-headed beggars closed the procession, which was
+followed by a countless train of the peasants. It slowly wound its way
+over the hill, and again descended to the church, where it mingled among
+the crowds of assembled spectators, which filled the churchyard and were
+seated on the steps of the calvary.
+
+Not far from the church is the holy well of Ste. Anne, where devotees were
+engaged pouring the holy water over their hands and backs, dipping their
+children, and testing its miraculous efficacy by various other ablutions.
+
+We proceeded next morning to Quimper, having had no opportunity of seeing
+Douarnenez itself. In the season it is a favourite watering-place, the
+bathing being about two miles from the town. It is a great place for the
+sardine fishery. From Quimper we went by rail to Rosporden, whence an
+omnibus runs to Concarneau. The church of Rosporden is situated on a
+little promontory, jutting out into a large etang fed by the river Aven,
+which runs through it and flows on to Pontaven.
+
+We took a carriage at Rosporden for Le Faouet, passing by Scaer on the
+Isole, a stream which rises at the foot of the Montagnes Noires, takes a
+curve round the town of Scaer, and joins the Laita. It is full of trout
+and salmon.
+
+Scaer is a town remarkable for having preserved many old customs and
+superstitions; among others, the bees are considered to be entitled to
+share in the joys and sorrows of the family. Their hives are surrounded
+with a red stuff on the occasion of a marriage; with a black on that of a
+death. This custom is still preserved in Wales. In all parts of Brittany
+bees are treated with special affection. As the redbreast is sacred,
+because she broke a thorn from the crown of our Lord that pierced His
+brow, so are the bees revered because, as we learn from the code of Hoel
+the Good, though they were sent from heaven to earth after the fall of
+man, the blessing of Heaven has ever followed them in their exile. This,
+too, is the reason the wax they produce has the privilege of lighting the
+altars for the divine office.
+
+[Illustration: 61. Cross Stones.]
+
+It was the day of a Pardon, and the peasants were all in gala dresses. A
+wrestling match unfortunately had just been finished; for throughout
+Cornouaille wrestling has been, from time immemorial, as favourite a game
+as in our county of the same name. Our driver tried without success to
+procure for us some of the little double crystals, intersecting each other
+at right angles, called "pierre de croix"--by mineralogists grenatite--found
+in the Coatdry, a small affluent of the Aven, washed out of the mica slaty
+rocks in which they abound. The peasants assign to them a miraculous
+origin, and wear them in little bags round the neck as charms against
+headache, blindness, shipwreck, and hydrophobia, being, as they allege,
+signed with the cross. According to tradition, a pagan chief, having, in
+his impious rage, thrown down the cross in the chapel of Coatdry, Heaven,
+in memorial of the outrage, placed the sacred symbol upon the stones of
+the river.
+
+At Le Faouet we again entered the department of the Morbihan. This pretty
+little town is situated between the Sterlaer and the Elle. We first walked
+to see the chapel of Ste. Barbe, perched, in the most singular manner, in
+the cleft of a high rock, about a mile from the town.
+
+After a steep climb we reached the plateau of the hill, where is the
+monument of a M. Berenger, who desired to be buried in this elevated spot,
+which commands a charming view of the surrounding country, the silvery
+waters of the Elle winding at the base of the mountain. We then descended,
+by a flight of handsome, broad, granite steps, with balustrades, to the
+chapel, placed on so narrow a space that it was impossible to give it the
+usual inclination to the east. The entrance-porch is to the southwest, and
+the high altar opposite, against the walls of the chapel, to the
+north-east. On the top of the steps is the belfry, consisting of a roof,
+supported by four columns. The day of the Pardon each pilgrim rings the
+bell. The chapel was built in this singular spot, according to tradition,
+by a knight, who was overtaken by a storm in the valley of the Elle
+beneath. He saw an enormous mass of detached rock on the point of falling
+down and crushing him, when he invoked the intercession of Sainte Barbe,
+the guardian saint against thunder, promising to build her a chapel, if
+delivered from the danger. His prayer was heard; the rock was stayed in
+its descent and rested on the cleft, where, next day, the grateful knight
+began building the chapel, as a thank-offering for his escape. Above Ste.
+Barbe, stationed on an insulated rock, one of the highest peaks in
+Brittany, is a small chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, also approached by
+a flight of stone steps, like Ste. Barbe, with bridge built over an
+archway. The rock on which it stands is so abrupt, that rings are placed
+along the sides of the chapel for the pilgrims, when creeping round, to
+hold on by. Many have perished in the attempt; none, they say, have ever
+succeeded in making the circuit.
+
+There was a wedding at Le Faouet during our stay there. Guests, invited
+from all quarters, to the number of 250, arrived in their gala costumes,
+some of them magnificent: one woman wore a gown entirely of gold tissue;
+it was her wedding-dress. The musicians, with biniou and hautboy, went
+round to summon the guests. We saw the procession going to church. The
+bride was prettily dressed, with a high cap, beautifully "got up," pointed
+in form, and trimmed with lace, and embroidered; a muslin apron, also
+lace-trimmed, and a double muslin shawl, similarly trimmed, the lace
+beautifully plaited; a violet silk dress, white moire sash, and a small
+bunch of white flowers. The bridegroom was "en bourgeois." Outside the
+church door were tables, laid out with cakes; after the service the bride
+and all the party took each a cake and put money in the plates, as an
+offering for the poor. They next adjourned to the Place, where they danced
+three "gavottes" under the trees. The ceremony of stealing away the bride
+then took place; that is, she was chased by some dozen of the youths of
+the company, and he who had the good fortune to capture her she treated to
+a cup of coffee at a cafe. Dinner followed, and then they returned to the
+interminable gavotte. They hold each other's hands "en grand rond," then
+wind themselves round the centre couple, executing most elaborate steps,
+and uncoil again to return to the grand rond. We counted as many as thirty
+couples in one gavotte. These festivities last two, or sometimes three,
+days, during which time all the wedding party are entertained free of
+expense.
+
+Le Faouet is a great fishing quarter. The Elle, which flows round the
+town, is a stream of considerable size; and, four miles below Le Faouet,
+it is joined by the Laita, and before Quimperle unites its waters with the
+Isole, whence its mingled streams flow into the Atlantic, under the name
+of the Laita. We were told that large fish were taken in a pond in the
+grounds of the Abbey of Langonnet, not far from Le Faouet, but it is
+strictly preserved.
+
+The people of this district retain all the old Breton superstitions; they
+believe in the Car of Death, drawn by six black horses, driven by the
+"Ankou," or Phantom of Death, with an iron whip. They also have full faith
+in the Washerwomen of the Night (Lavandieres de la Nuit), who wash the
+shrouds for the dead, and fill the air with their melodious songs:--
+
+
+    "Si chretien ne vient nous sauver,
+    Jusqu'au jugement faut laver:
+    Au clair de la lune, au bruit du vent,
+    Sous la neige, le linceul blanc."
+
+
+    "If no good soul our hands will stay,
+    We must toil on till judgment-day:
+    In strong wind or clear moonlight,
+    We must wash the death-shroud white."
+
+
+They engage the passer-by to help them in wringing the linen; if he
+refuses, they drown him in their washing trough, or suffocate him in a wet
+sheet. Should he show himself ill-disposed, after having agreed to help
+them, they dislocate his arm. If he wrings the wrong way, his fate is
+inevitable; but if docile and obliging, they give him some clothes and
+dismiss him.
+
+[Illustration: 62. Rood-Screen or Jube, St Fiacre.]
+
+A mile and a half from Le Faouet, on a height a little off the Quimperle
+road, is the beautiful church of Saint Fiacre, dating from the middle of
+the fifteenth century, celebrated for its carved wooden jube, or
+rood-screen, and its painted glass. The church is falling to decay. It
+would be tedious to enumerate all the figures, and describe the details of
+this beautiful jube. The carving is a perfect tracery of lace-work. Three
+large figures represent our Saviour and the two thieves. Then there are
+the Virgin and St. Joseph; the latter, with carpenter's plane and hammer.
+Below, Adam and Eve, and the Angel with the flaming sword. Two angels hold
+cartouches, on one of which is inscribed, "L'an mil C/IIII XX/IIII (1480)
+fut fait cette sculpture par Olivier de Loergan;" and, on the other,
+"Cette passion fut peinte l'an 1627. Yves Perez fabricant. Tous repaint en
+1866." Below are panels carved in the flamboyant style, of exquisite
+workmanship. The two middle panels have the sacred monogram, those on the
+east side ermines surrounded by cordelieres.
+
+The side of the rood-loft facing the choir has pendents with grotesque
+carvings of allegorical signification.
+
+A man in an apple-tree, gathering the fruit, symbolizes theft. Next comes
+a disgusting representation of gluttony: a man relieving himself of a pig
+he has swallowed, the tail alone remaining in his mouth. Then follow a
+young man and woman, gaily attired, emblematic of luxury. So far, three of
+the "sept peches capitaux" are represented; but after these comes a
+national subject: a man playing on the bagpipe. The figures throughout the
+rood-screen are all boldly executed, and the tracery most elegant and
+delicate.
+
+The painted glass in the church is considerable, and represents the Life
+of Our Saviour, that of St. Fiacre, the Feast of Herod, and the Martyrdom
+of the Baptist, figures of the Prophets of the Old Testament, with many
+others. In most of the subjects, the figures are much mutilated. On one
+window is inscribed, "Pierre Androuet ouvrier demeurant a Kemperle 1552."
+Over one altar is a sculpture, representing the Martyrdom of Saint
+Sebastian, between two archers, in the quaint costume of the sixteenth
+century.
+
+About six miles from Le Faouet, is the ruined castle of Poncallec, with
+its forest, etang, and forge; once the demesne of the young marquis of
+that name, who was implicated in that conspiracy to transfer the Regency
+from the Duke of Orleans to Philip V. of Spain, called the plot of
+Cellamare. Of the hundred and forty-eight gentlemen included in the
+accusation, all escaped to Spain, except Poncallec and three others.
+Poncallec refused to accompany them from a superstitious fear, a
+fortune-teller having foretold he should perish by the sea, "par la mer."
+They took refuge in a church, but were surprised by a party of cavaliers
+who had muffled the feet of their horses to reach them unheard. They
+escaped through a subterranean passage, and, for fifteen days, lay
+concealed in the hollow of a yew-tree, fed in secret by faithful peasants.
+Poncallec traversed France in the disguise of a priest, but was arrested
+at the Pyrenees. He with the three others were all convicted of high
+treason, and, a few hours after their condemnation, were beheaded at
+Nantes. Poncallec was the last to suffer. When ascending the scaffold, he
+asked the executioner his name; on his answering "La Mer," Poncallec felt
+the witch's prophecy was fulfilled.
+
+The estates of the four victims were confiscated, their arms effaced from
+the fronts of their houses, the moats of their castles filled in, and
+their trees (hautes futaies) cut down, "a hauteur d'infamie," that is,
+within nine feet of the ground, in like manner as were those of Moor Park,
+after the execution of the Duke of Monmouth. A list was presented to the
+Regent Philip of other offenders, but he tore the paper, and published an
+amnesty. The story of Poncallec is dramatically told by Alexandre Dumas,
+in his novel, called 'Une fille du Regent.' The Bretons honoured the
+victims as martyrs, and M. de la Villemarque, in his 'Chansons Bretons,'
+gives a touching elegy which shows the sympathy excited by the tragic fate
+of Poncallec:
+
+
+    "Quand il arriva a Nantes, il fut juge et condamne,
+        Condamne non par ses pairs,
+    Mais par des gens tombes de derriere les carrosses.
+          Ils demanderent a Poncallec:
+          'Seigneur marquis, qu'avez vous fait?
+          --Mon devoir; faites notre metier.'
+    Il est mort, chers pauvres, celui qui vous nourissait,
+    Qui vous vetissait, qui vous soutenait;
+    Il est mort celui qui vous aimait, habitants de Berne
+    Celui qui aimait son pays et qui l'a aime jusqu'a mourir.
+            Il est mort a vingt-deux ans
+      Comme meurent les martyrs et les saints;
+            Que dieu ait pitie de son ame!
+      Le seigneur est mort {~HORIZONTAL ELLIPSIS~} Ma voix s'eteint, {~HORIZONTAL ELLIPSIS~}
+      Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit, sois maudit;
+            Toi qui l'as trahi, sois maudit."
+
+
+We left Le Faouet and its comfortable primitive inn, the "Lion d'Or," with
+much regret; the country around is beautiful, and we had arranged to set
+out early that we might cross the Montagnes Noires by daylight; but we
+were disappointed in procuring a carriage, and it was not till late in the
+afternoon that we were able to leave in a diligence, of which the coupe
+alone was reserved to us, the interior being occupied by Breton farmers,
+returning from a horse-fair. From the elevated wooded ground of Le Faouet,
+the road makes a precipitous descent, and crosses the little stream of
+Moulin-au-duc, after which it again rises, in a winding direction, along
+the side of a mountain with a valley and little stream beneath. Then a
+rapid descent brought us to Gourin, where we would gladly have risked
+staying the night, and waited till morning to pursue our road over the
+mountains, but we had paid our fare to Carhaix. Up hill and down again,
+like all the roads in mountainous Finistere, from Gourin we ascended again
+and passed a crest of the Montagnes Noires, which separates the three
+departments of Finistere, Morbihan, and Cotes-du-Nord; and proceeded
+through a valley to Carhaix, where we arrived at midnight, and therefore
+had no opportunity of seeing the beauties of the mountain scenery.
+
+Carhaix is a dirty, unpaved, dull town of the middle ages, much decayed
+from its ancient importance when capital of the country dismembered from
+Cornouaille, in the sixth century, by Comorre the Breton Bluebeard. It is
+situated on an eminence, commanding an extensive view of the barren
+monotonous surrounding country, bounded by the Arre mountains, the Alps of
+Finistere. It is the centre of Lower Brittany, and the Duke d'Aiguillon,
+Minister of Louis XV., caused six roads to be made from it to Brest,
+Quimper, Morlaix, St. Brieux, Vannes, and Chateaulin, with the hope of
+introducing commerce and civilisation into this barren district, "le
+dernier trou du monde," as it is styled by the Parisian.
+
+La Tour d'Auvergne, Premier Grenadier de France, was born here, and a
+bronze statue of him, by Marochetti, has been erected to his memory. He is
+in the uniform of a private soldier, and presses to his heart the sword of
+honour just presented to him by the First Consul. Round the pedestal are
+four bas-reliefs, representing scenes in his life. In the first, he saves
+a wounded soldier; in the second, he forces the gates of Chambery; in the
+third, he takes leave of the parents of a youth, for whom he goes as a
+substitute into the army. The last represents his death; he was killed by
+a lance at Ober-hausen (Bavaria), fighting against the Austrians. The
+monument bears this inscription on its four sides:--
+
+  "La Tour d'Auvergne, 1^er Grenadier de France, ne a Carhaix le 23
+  Decembre, 1715; mort au champ d'honneur le 27 Juin, 1800.
+
+  "Ecrivain, Citoyen, Soldat, sa vie toujours glorieusement remplie ne
+  laisse que de sublimes exemples a la posterite.
+
+  "Tant de talens, et de vertus, appartenaient a l'histoire et au premier
+  Consul, de les devancer.
+
+  "Celui qui meurt dans une lutte sacree trouve pour le repos une patrie
+  meme sur la terre etrangere."
+
+Preferring the title of "Premier Grenadier de France" to higher honours,
+La Tour d'Auvergne remained as a private soldier to his death; but in a
+decree of Buonaparte, then First Consul, preserved in the Musee des
+Archives, he orders that La Tour d'Auvergne's name should still be kept on
+the muster-roll of his old regiment; and, when called, the corporal should
+answer, "Mort au champ d'honneur!"
+
+The moderation and absence of ambition in the character of La Tour
+d'Auvergne is expressed in a letter to Le Coq, Bishop of Ille-et-Vilaine.
+He writes,--"Je me prosterne bien plus volontiers devant la Providence pour
+le remercier que pour rien demander; du pain, du lait, la liberte; et une
+coeur qui ne puisse jamais s'ouvrir a l'ambition, voila l'objet de tous mes
+desirs."
+
+La Tour d'Auvergne had a learned dog, which he educated as a soldier; he
+went through the whole drill, and his master made him always wear boots.
+He marched in them, on one occasion, the whole distance from Paris to
+Guingamp.
+
+A horse fair and market were going on at Carhaix. Some of the women wore
+curious flannel hoods, edged with colours. There were baskets of burnt
+limpet shells and lime, used in washing as substitutes for soap. In the
+porch of the church dedicated to St. Tremeur (son of the Bluebeard
+Comorre) are some of the little skull-boxes so common in the north of
+Brittany. One was labelled, "Ci git le chef de Mr. Thomas Francois Nonet,
+ancien notaire et maire de la ville de Carhaix le 28 J^ier 1776, decedee
+le 8 7^bre 1842." The curfew bell rings at Carhaix at a quarter to ten.
+
+We left next day for Huelgoat, fifteen miles distant, the road up and
+down, wild and dreary. At Pont Pierre, about nine miles from Carhaix, we
+crossed the Aulne, even here a considerable river, with a beautiful thick
+forest on our right. At a place called La Grande Halte, we turned off the
+road to the right for Huelgoat, about a mile and a half off. It is
+prettily situated on a large pond or lake, nearly a mile and a half in
+circumference, and of great depth (20 feet). It was market day; the men
+wore brown serge coats, close white breeches and black gaiters, with straw
+hats bound with black. The countrymen from Saint Herbot were there in
+their black shaggy goat or sheepskin overcoats, the hair turned outwards
+(there are flocks of black sheep throughout Finistere), without sleeves,
+and the white breeches, black gaiters, and straw hats. The women of
+Huelgoat wear large white turnover collars and caps with long ends turned
+up.
+
+We first walked to the rocking stone on the slope of a steep hill,
+considered the third largest in Brittany; the block forming a kind of
+double cube, that is, about twice the length of its height. It requires a
+very slight impulse to make it rock. This "fairy stone" is often consulted
+by the peasants. In the ravine close by, below the path, is what is called
+the "Cuisine de Madame Marie," but termed in the guide-books the "Menage
+de la Vierge;" a recess formed of large masses of fantastically shaped
+granite rocks, through which a small stream of water flows, arriving
+thither from the pond, by a subterranean course. One stone, hollowed out,
+is called the ecuelle of the Virgin, and others have each the name of some
+different utensil requisite for the "Menage" of our Lady. The young people
+managed to scramble to the bottom.
+
+Huelgoat (Breton, "high wood") is celebrated for its lead-mines, which are
+now no longer worked. A well-kept path, cut on the top of the ridge, leads
+to the mines, about two miles and a half distant, along a neat little
+canal, three feet wide, issuing from the great pond, and supplying the
+hydraulic machine used to pump the water out of the mine. The deeply
+wooded valley, along the ridge of which it runs, is traversed by a rushing
+stream, which runs over rocks; and at a place called Le Gouffre, the
+rounded granite masses are piled in the wildest confusion, like those of
+the Menage de la Vierge, forming a large dark cavern, at the bottom of
+which the imprisoned river foams and roars, and has forced itself an
+escape through a gorge at some distance from the place, where it is lost
+to view. A young girl is said, about a century back, to have fallen down
+this gulf. Attempting to gather some of the mosses that line the sides of
+the rocks, she slipped in and perished in the sight of her intended. Her
+body never reappeared, but our guide assured us that her ghost was seen
+four years since, and that sighs and groans are to be heard at eve issuing
+from the fatal chasm.
+
+The pretty little ivy-leaved campanula was growing here in abundance. We
+visited in succession the "robber's cave," the "Pierre cintre" (a natural
+archway), and other wonders, and returned much pleased with the infinite
+variety of fantastic rocks, rushing waters, and hanging woods, which form
+this charming scene.
+
+The lead-mines of Huelgoat have been worked since the fifteenth century
+for the silver which the lead-ore (galena) contains.
+
+The right of working these mines and those of Poullaouen was given by
+Louis XIII. to Jean du Chatelet, Baron of Beausoleil, and his wife. He was
+at that time General of the Mines in Hungary, and inspector of the French
+mines. They were accompanied by German miners, but their mysterious
+researches caused them to be accused of sorcery and magic. Richelieu had
+them imprisoned in the Bastille, where they both died, victims of the
+fanaticism of the age, and the works were abandoned till the eighteenth
+century. They are now no longer in operation, but it is said are about to
+be re-opened.
+
+Retracing our steps to La Grande Halte, on the Carhaix road, we turned off
+to the left to see the cascade of St. Herbot. We left our carriage, and
+walked up a hill covered with underwood, opposite the fall. The cascade is
+formed by the little river Elez falling through a mountain gorge about 650
+feet  in length, filled with granite rocks of every shape and size, the
+sides overhung with woods of oak. The height of the fall is 230 feet.
+
+There was no water in the cascade. At the best, it must be only a
+succession of small falls. The river tumbles from rock to rock, forming on
+some of the ledges pools of water, filled with small trout, some of which
+were caught by our party.
+
+According to the legend, a giant of the country, wishing to clear the
+fields of his friend, a Druid, from the rocks that encumbered them, rolled
+them down the torrent.
+
+We descended the hill to the road where we had left our carriage, and went
+to the chapel of St. Herbot, a building of the sixteenth century, on the
+side of a rushing brook. It has a high square tower opening into the
+church, and a rood-screen of wood beautifully carved in the style of the
+Renaissance, which forms three sides round the altar. Two angels are
+represented with cups, the "sainte graal" receiving the blood of Christ.
+The entrance to the church is up a flight of steps. It has a beautifully
+sculptured south porch, with statues of the Apostles, and some fine
+painted-glass windows. One part of the church has the windows with iron
+bars, as if for defence.
+
+[Illustration: 63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]
+
+Near the altar is the tomb of the anchorite, St. Herbot; his effigy
+reposes under a Gothic canopy, upon a granite sarcophagus, represented in
+his hermit's gown, the hood thrown back, flowing hair, long beard, his
+breviary suspended to his girdle, and his pilgrim's staff by his left arm.
+His feet repose on a recumbent lion. St. Herbot is the great patron of
+cattle; the three days of the fair and pardon all the bullocks rest; and
+when an animal is ill, an offering of his hair is made to the saint. We
+saw a heap of horsehair and cows' tails lying on one of the altars. These
+are annually sold for the profit of the church, and the proceeds amount to
+a considerable sum. Our guide gravely assured us that on the first of May,
+day of the Pardon of St. Herbot, the cows "d'elles memes" walk three times
+round the church.
+
+[Illustration: 64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot.]
+
+We returned late to Carhaix, and left next day for Guingamp, passing,
+about two miles out of the town, through the village of St. Catherine on
+the Hierre, where the church has fleur-de-lise windows, like that of
+Penmarch. We here entered the department of the Cotes-du-Nord through
+Callac, where we changed horses; the country was hilly and wooded. On the
+left we saw the spire of the church of Notre Dame-de-Graces, where repose
+the remains of Charles of Blois; on the right appeared the cathedral
+towers of Guingamp. At this last place we took the rail to Caulnes-Dinan,
+and on, by diligence, to Dinan, whence we proposed returning by St. Malo;
+but, finding the time of the boat's sailing did not suit our arrangements,
+we returned by Paris and Dieppe to London.
+
+
+
+
+
+SOME USEFUL DATES IN THE HISTORY OF BRITTANY.
+
+
+  1320. Du Guesclin born.
+  1338. Marriage of Charles of Blois and Jeanne de Penthievre.  Du
+              Guesclin at the tournament.
+  1341. Death of John III. Beginning of the War of Succession.
+  1342. John de Montfort, prisoner in the Louvre, 1345. Escape to England
+              and death.
+  1346. Siege of Hennebont defended by Jeanne de Flandre.
+  1347. Charles of Blois taken prisoner at La Roche Derrien.
+  "   War of the two Jeannes.
+  1351. Combat of the Thirty.
+  1356. Charles of Blois liberated.
+  1359. Siege of Dinan.
+  1364. Battle of Auray.
+  1365. Treaty of Guerande.
+  1370. Du Guesclin, Constable of France.
+  1375. John IV. flees to England.
+  1380. He is recalled.
+  1387. Death of Du Guesclin.
+  1387. Clisson marries his daughter to Jean de Penthievre.
+  1407. Death of Clisson.
+  1420. Seizure of John V. by the Penthievres.
+  1488. Battle of St. Aubin du Cormier.
+
+
+
+
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE DUKES OF BRITTANY.
+
+
+                                    []
+
+
+
+1. GEOFFROY II.                        CONSTANCE
+3rd son of Henry II.,--------=--------Heiress of Britanny
+    1175                     |
+                          Arthur,
+                           1196.
+
+CONSTANCE,------------=-----------2. GUY DE THOUARS
+Heiress of            |
+Brittany.           Alix,
+                    1213------=-----Pierre de Dreux.
+                              |
+                       John II., 1286.
+                Beatrix, daughter of Henry III.
+                              |
+                              |
+1. Maria,-------------=------Arthur II., 1305----------------------------------=-----2. Jeanne de Montfort.
+Vicountess            |                                                        |
+de Limoges            |                                                        |
+                      |                                         +--------------+--------+
+          +-----------+----------+                              |                       |
+          |                      |                 Jean Comte de Montfort + 1345.    Beatrix.
+Jean III. (Bon), 1313.   Gui Comte de Penthievre.........Jeanne de Flandre........Gui de Laval.
+Isabelle de Valois.              |                              |                       |
+                                 |                              |                Beatrix de Laval
+                          Jeanne la Boiteuse.        Jean IV. (Vaillant), 1366.         |
+                        Charles de Blois + 1364 ....... 1. Mary of England.      Richard de Bretagne.
+                                 |                       2. Joan Holland.........Marguerite d'Orleans.
+          +----------------------+--------------+       3. Joan of Navarre.             |
+          |                      |              |               |                       |
+Jean Comte de Penthievre.       Gui.           Henri.           |                       |
+Marguerite de Clisson.     Died in captivity.                   |                       |
+          |                                       +-------------+-----+           Francis II., 1458
+   +------+-------+                               |                   |
+   |      |       |                         John V., 1439     Arthur III., 1457...1. Marguerite de Bretagne.
+Olivier Charles Guillaume ................ Jeanne de France      Constable.       2. Marguerite de Foix.
+                                                  |                                     |
+        +----------------------+------------------+--------+                            |
+Francis I., 1442.         Pierre II.,          Maria.     Gilles.                  Anne, 1488.
+1. Yolande d'Anjou.       1450.                         Francoise de Dinan.......1. Charles VIII.
+2. Isabeau d'Ecosse.     Francoise d'Amboise.                                    2. Louis XIII.
+                                                                                        |
+                                                                                   +----+----+
+                                                                                 Claude.   Renee.
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+Abelard, 192.
+Ancenis, 217.
+Angouleme, Duke and Duchess, 167.
+Anne, of Austria, Queen, 122, 269.
+Anne de Beaujeu, Regent, 203, 229.
+Anne of Brittany, Queen-Duchess, 42, 50, 62, 98, 121, 153, 221, 222, 223.
+Arre, mountains, 103, 136, 297.
+Arthur and Geoffroy Plantagenet, 216.
+Arthur III., Duke of Brittany, Constable of France, 190.
+Artois, Comte d', 29.
+Auray, 157.
+Auray, battle of, 161.
+Auray, Ste. Anne d', 158.
+Avranches, 23.
+Audierne, 269.
+
+Baciocchi, Princess, 187.
+Baie des Trepasses, 274.
+Barbes, 28.
+Barkers (aboyeurs), 214.
+Bas-Foins, 49.
+Beaumanoir Chapel, 56.
+Beaumanoir, Jean de, 52, 206.
+Beauport, Abbey of, 76.
+Belle-Isle-en-Mer, 250.
+Belliere, Chateau of, 54.
+Berri, Duchess, 226.
+Bertheaume, Island, 128.
+Bigouden, 258.
+Biniou, 249.
+Bisson, 155, 194.
+Blanche of Castille, 149.
+Blue Beard, Breton, 194.
+Boisgelin, Chateau, 75.
+Bonchamps, 237.
+Bourg-de-Batz, 217.
+Brest, 118.
+Bretesch, Chateau of, 248.
+Breton bed, 239;
+-- butter, 153;
+-- character, 99;
+-- chestnuts, 203;
+-- cow and pig, 153;
+-- distaffs, 259;
+-- farmhouse, 86;
+-- knitting, 74;
+-- soup, 112;
+-- threshing, 117;
+-- vehicles, 37.
+
+Cancale, 39.
+Carnac, 177.
+Cesson, Tour de, 71.
+Carhaix, 297.
+Chalais, Comte de, 226.
+Champ des Martyrs, 166.
+Champtoceaux, Chateau de, 218.
+Chandos, Sir John, 16, 46, 89, 162.
+Chateaubriand, 36, 41.
+Chateaulin, 135.
+Chatelet, J. du, 302.
+Chene-Ferron, Chateau of, 57.
+Cherbourg, 1.
+Charles the Bad, 134.
+Charles of Blois, 67, 75, 82, 161.
+Charles V., 223.
+Charles VI., 185.
+Charles VII., 47, 191.
+Charles VIII., 203, 229.
+Clisson, Constable, 25, 89, 186, 209.
+Clisson, Marguerite, 89, 218.
+Colomb, Michel, 127, 221.
+Combat des Trente, 206.
+Combourg, Chateau de, 36.
+Comorre, 194, 297.
+Concarneau, 142.
+Conquet, Le, 128.
+Constance of Brittany, 216.
+Cornouaille, 135.
+Costume, 23, 133, 140, 234, 249, 258, 283, 288, 298.
+Coueron, 34.
+Couesnon, 29.
+Courcorro, 181.
+Coutances, 19.
+Crepes, 11, 169.
+Croisic, Le, 232.
+Crosses, 104.
+
+D'Andelot, Sieur, 248.
+Dinan, 44, 50.
+Dinan, Francoise de, _see_ Francoise.
+Dinan, Roland de, 53.
+Dinard, 44.
+Dogs of St. Malo, 42.
+Dol, 30.
+Douarnenez, 276, 279.
+Dubourg, 29.
+Du Guesclin, 24, 44, 45, 51, 53, 74, 143, 162, 209.
+
+Elven, Chateau of, 199.
+Edward III., 15, 112, 153, 223.
+Edward IV., 201.
+Escoublac, 232.
+Estouteville, Sieur d', 13, 26.
+Epinglettes, 160.
+Ermine, Order of, 126.
+
+Filet, saint, 264.
+Faouet, Le, 287.
+Folgoet, Le, 120.
+Fouquet, N., 256.
+Francis I., Duke of Brittany, 47, 126 _note_, 185.
+Francis II., Duke of Brittany, 221, 229.
+Francoise de Dinan, 46, 215.
+Fontenelle le Ligueur, 267.
+Frerie Blanche, 72.
+Frobisher, 134.
+
+Gavr' Inis, 174.
+Gesril du Papeu, 166, 167.
+Gilles de Bretagne, 46.
+Goemon (wrack), 94.
+Grallo, King, 139, 275.
+Guerande, 245.
+Guimiliau, 115.
+Granville, 21.
+Guingamp, 72.
+
+Haedic, Isle, 250, 257.
+Haye du Puits, La, 17.
+Harcourt, G. d', 15.
+Hennebont, 156.
+Henry II., 4, 24, 26.
+Henry IV., 71, 134, 191.
+Henry V., 13, 26, 134, 201.
+Henry VI., 201.
+Henry VII., 201.
+Henry VIII., 128.
+Henri IV., 216, 225.
+Herce, 167, 183.
+Hoche, Gen., 166.
+Hunaudaye, Chateau de la, 62.
+Huelgoat, 300.
+
+Indian corn, 251.
+Inclined axis of church, 106.
+Is, City of, 274.
+Ingrandes, 217.
+
+James II., 72, 205.
+Jean de Montfort, 67, 112, 153.
+Jeanne d'Arc, 190.
+Jeanne de Flandre (Montfort), 83, 156.
+Jeanne de France, 185, 219.
+Jeanne de Penthievre, 83.
+Jeanne (Joan) of Navarre, 106, 121, 134, 194, 246.
+John I. (Roux), 189, 194.
+John II., 204.
+John III. (Bon), 67, 160, 205.
+John IV. (Victorieux), 25, 67, 71, 119, 121, 126, 160, 185, 223, 246.
+John V., 88, 121, 185.
+Josselin, Chateau, 211.
+Jugon, 61, 187.
+
+Kergrist, Chateau, 96.
+Kermartin, 84.
+Kermario, 177.
+Kersanton stone, 122, 135.
+Kerserho, 181.
+Kerscaven, 269.
+Knights Templars, 69.
+Knollys, Sir R., 119, 143.
+Korn-er-Hoet, 187.
+La Foret, Bay, 143.
+La Garaye, Chateau of, 57.
+Lamballe, 67.
+Lanleff, 68.
+Langoat, 83.
+Langoustes, 94, 147.
+Lannion, 94.
+Lanvaux, Lande de, 187.
+Larochejaquelin, 22.
+La Tour d'Auvergne, 297.
+Lehon Abbey, 56.
+Lavandieres de la Nuit, 290.
+Lesage, 188.
+Leonnais, 103.
+Leon, Viscounts, 110.
+Lezardrieux, 80.
+Lessay, 17.
+Locmariaker, 170.
+Loctudy, 261.
+Lorient, 155.
+Louis XI., 26, 201.
+Louis XII., 32, 223.
+Louis XIV., 119, 189.
+
+Manny, Sir W., 128, 153, 157.
+Manoir, 81.
+Martinvast, 12.
+Matilda, Empress, 3.
+Mary, daughter of Edward III., 106.
+Mercoeur, Duke de, 225.
+Menhir, 35.
+Mingant Rock, 119.
+Minihy (sanctuaries), 88.
+Mivoie, Chene de, 207.
+Montafilant, Chateau, 46.
+Montfort, 215.
+Mont St. Michel, 25.
+Motto of Dukes of Brittany, 126, 161.
+Morbihan Sea, 174.
+Morlaix, 97.
+
+Nacqueville, Chateau, 6.
+Nantes, 221.
+Napoleon I., 3, 4.
+Notre Dame-de-Comfort, church, 279.
+Notre Dame-du-Roncier, 213.
+
+Octeville, 5.
+Ouessant Isle, 128, 133.
+
+Paimboeuf, 229.
+Paimpol, 80.
+Palais, Le, 251.
+Penmarch, 263.
+Penmarch, Torche de, 262.
+Penthievre, 149, 210, 225.
+Periers, 18.
+Perros Guirec, 92.
+Peter, Duke, 72.
+Philip Augustus, 28.
+Pierre de Dreux, 216.
+Pierres de Croix, 286.
+Pleudaniel, 81.
+Ploermel, 203.
+Plouaret, 96.
+Plougastel, 133.
+Plouharnel, 180.
+Ploumanach, 92.
+Pointe du Raz, 271.
+Pole, W. de la, Earl of Suffolk, 13.
+Pontacallec, Marquis de, 226, 294.
+Pontaven, 150.
+Pontcroix, 276.
+Pont l'Abbe, 257.
+Pontorson, 24.
+Port Navalo, 250.
+Potatoes, 251.
+Poulignan, 233.
+Porzmoguer, 130.
+
+Querqueville, 5.
+Quiberon, 165.
+Quimper, 138.
+Quimperle, 151.
+
+Rance River, 43.
+Richelieu, Cardinal, 96, 119.
+Richelieu, Duke, 82.
+Rennes, 216.
+Retz, Cardinal, 226.
+Rieux, Marshal, 202.
+River scenery, 103, 216, 250.
+Roads, 84, 91.
+Roche Bernard, La, 247.
+Roche Derrien, La, 82.
+Roche Jagu, La, 81.
+Rochefort, Chancellor, 229.
+Rocking stones, 93, 149, 300.
+Rohan family, 98, 99, 111, 210.
+Rosaries, 282.
+Roscoff, 111.
+Rosgrand, 153.
+Rosporden, 285.
+Rustephan, Chateau, 149.
+
+Sacring bells, 279.
+Saire, Monk of, 5.
+Ste. Anne la Palue, 282.
+St. Armal, 204.
+-- Aubin du Cormier, 229.
+Ste. Barbe, 287.
+St. Brieuc, 71.
+-- Corentin, 137.
+-- Cornely, 178.
+-- Fiacre, 20.
+--  "  church, 293.
+-- Florent, 217.
+-- Genevroc, 105.
+-- Germain, 5, 34.
+-- Gildas, 192.
+-- Guenole, 263.
+-- Herbot, 303.
+-- Ives, 85, 88.
+-- Leonard, 75.
+-- Malo, 39.
+-- Mathieu, 129.
+-- Michael, Order of, 26.
+-- Nazaire, 230.
+-- Pair, 23.
+-- Pol de Leon, 103.
+-- Samson, 32.
+-- Thegonnec, 114, 117.
+-- Urlose, 152.
+-- Vincente Ferrar, 184.
+Salt, 233.
+Sardine fishery, 144.
+Sarzeau, 192.
+Scaer, 285.
+Scales, Lord, 21.
+Sein, Isle, 272.
+Sevigne, Madame de, 203.
+Skull-boxes, 91.
+Soeurs de la Misericorde, 16.
+Soeurs de le Providence, 11.
+Sombreuil, Comte de, 164, 183, 184.
+Stuart, Charles, 113, 230.
+Stuart, Mary, 98, 112.
+Sucinio, Chateau, 189.
+
+Teigneuse, Isle, 250.
+Thomas a Becket, 24.
+Tocqueville, A. de, 7.
+Tombeleine, Isle, 28.
+Touquedec, Chateau, 95.
+Tourlaville, Chateau, 7.
+Treguier, 88.
+Tregunc, 149.
+Trieux River, 80.
+Trinite, La, 130.
+Tumiac, Butte de, 199.
+Typhaine, the Lady, 24, 44, 54.
+
+Valognes, 14.
+Vannes, 183.
+Varades, 217.
+Vendean army, 217.
+Veneti, 183.
+Venus' ear, 2.
+Victoria, Queen, 1, 3, 14.
+
+Walsh, 230.
+War of the two Jeannes, 83.
+War of Succession, 67 _note_.
+Washing, 18.
+Wells, holy, 125, 285.
+Welsh Baptists, 100.
+William the Conqueror, 4.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBERS' NOTES
+
+
+The following substitutions were applied to the text by Project Gutenberg
+proofers and transcribers--
+
+On page 7: "recals" --> "recalls"
+On page 25: "John IV Duke of Britanny" --> "Brittany"
+On page 93: "slighest" --> "slightest"
+On page 104: "calvarys" --> "calvaries"
+In Ill. 22: "Creisker" --> "Creizker"
+On page 144: "mackarel" --> "mackerel"
+On page 149: "out out" --> "out"
+On page 167: twice "d'Angoulme" --> "d'Angouleme"
+On page 178: "Erdevan" --> "Erdeven"
+On pages 196/197: several extra double quotes removed
+On page 212: "ballustrades" --> "balustrades"
+On page 270: "promonotory" --> "promontory"
+On page 272: "corronation" --> "coronation"
+On page 303: "in in" --> "in"
+
+
+
+
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+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS***
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