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diff --git a/22631.txt b/22631.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..055a908 --- /dev/null +++ b/22631.txt @@ -0,0 +1,16092 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Africa, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa Territories in the Interior of Africa + +Author: Abd Salam Shabeeny + +Commentator: James Grey Jackson + +Release Date: September 16, 2007 [EBook #22631] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Renald Levesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France + + + + + + + + + + + AN ACCOUNT + OF + TIMBUCTOO AND HOUSA, + TERRITORIES IN THE INTERIOR OF + Africa, + + By: EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY; + + WITH + _NOTES, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY._ + TO WHICH IS ADDED, + LETTERS DESCRIPTIVE OF + TRAVELS THROUGH WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN'S OF ATLAS; + ALSO, + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, AND ANECDOTES; + SPECIMENS OF THE ARABIC EPISTOLARY STYLE, + &c. &c. + +"_L'Univers est une espece de livre, dont on n'a lu que la premiere + page, quand on n'a vu que son pays._" LE COSMOPOLITE. + + By; JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + RESIDENT UPWARDS OF SIXTEEN YEARS IN SOUTH AND WEST BARBARY, + IN A DIPLOMATIC AND IN A COMMERCIAL CAPACITY. + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, + PATERNOSTER-ROW. + 1820. + + +Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, +Printers Street, London. + + + + + TO + HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY + GEORGE THE FOURTH, + _&c. &c. &c._ + THIS WORK + IS + WITH PERMISSION, + RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, + + BY + + HIS MAJESTY'S + MOST DUTIFUL SUBJECT + AND SERVANT, + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The person who communicated the following intelligence respecting +Timbuctoo and Housa, is a Muselman, and a native of Tetuan, whose father +and mother are personally known to Mr. Lucas, the British Consul. His +name is Asseed El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny. His account of himself is, +that at the age of fourteen years he accompanied his father to +Timbuctoo, from which town, after a residence of three years, he +proceeded to Housa; and after residing at the latter two years, he +returned to Timbuctoo, where he continued seven years, and then came +back to Tetuan. + +Being now in the twenty-seventh year of his age, he proceeded from +Tetuan as a pilgrim and merchant, with the caravan for Egypt to Mecca +and Medina, and on his return, established himself as a merchant at +Tetuan, his native place, from whence he embarked on board a vessel +bound for Hamburgh, in order to purchase linens and other merchandize +that were requisite for his commerce. + +On his return from Hamburgh in an English vessel, he was captured, and +carried prisoner to Ostend, by a ship manned by Englishmen, but under +Russian colours, the captain of which pretended that his Imperial +mistress was at war with all Muselmen. There he was released by the good +offices of the British consul, Sir John Peters[a], and embarked once +more in the same vessel, which, by the same mediation, was also +released; but as the captain either was or pretended to be afraid of a +second capture, El Hage Abd Salam was sent ashore at Dover, and is +now[b], by the orders of government, to take his passage on board a +king's ship that will sail in a few days. + +In the following communications, Mr. Beaufoy proposed the questions, and +Mr. Lucas was the interpreter. + +Shabeeny was two years on his journey from Tetuan to Mekka, before he +returned to Fas. He made some profit on his merchandise, which consisted +of haiks[c], red caps, and slippers, cochineal and saffron; the returns +were, fine Indian muslins[d] for turbans, raw silk, musk, and +_gebalia_[e], a fine perfume that resembles black paste. + +He made a great profit by his traffic at Timbuctoo and Housa; but, _he +says_, money gained among the Negroes[f] has not the blessing of God on +it, but vanishes away without benefit to the owner; but, acquired in a +journey to Mecca, proves fortunate, and becomes a permanent acquisition. + +On his return with his father from Mecca, they settled at Tetuan, and +often carried cattle, poultry, &c. to Gibraltar; his father passed the +last fifteen years of his life at Gibraltar, and died there about the +year 1793. He was born at Mequinas; his family is descended from the +tribe of Shabban[g], which possesses the country between Santa Cruz and +Wedinoon. They were entitled to the office of pitching the Emperor's +tent, and attending his person. They can raise 40,000 men, and they were +the first who accompanied Muley Hamed Dehebby[h] in his march to +Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote a: Confirmed by Sir John Peters.] + + [Footnote b: In the year 1795.] + + [Footnote c: The haiks are light cotton, woollen, or silk garments, + about five feet wide and four yards long, manufactured at Fas, as + are also the red caps which are generally made of the finest Tedla + wool, which is equal to the Spanish, and is the produce of the + province of that name, (for the situation of which see the map of + the empire of Marocco, facing page 55.) The slippers are also + manufactured from leather made from goat-skins, at Fas and at + Mequinas. The cochineal is imported from Spain, although the + opuntia, or the tree that nourishes the cochineal-fly, abounds in + many of the provinces of West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Suse. The saffron abounds in the Atlas mountains in Lower Suse, + and is used in most articles of food by the Muhamedans.] + + [Footnote d: Muls.] + + [Footnote e: _Gebalia_ resembles frankincense, or Gum Benjamin, and + is used for fumigations by the Africans.] + + [Footnote f: Being idolaters.] + + [Footnote g: Shaban is (probably) a tribe of the Howara Arabs, who + possess the beautiful plains and fine country situated between the + city of Terodant and the port of Santa Cruz. There is an emigration + of the Mograffra Arabs, who are in possession of the country + between Terodant and the port of Messa. The encampments of an + emigration of the Woled Abusebah (vulgarly called, in the maps, + _Labdessebas_) Arabs of Sahara, occupy a considerable district + between Tomie, on the coast, and Terodant. The coast from Messa to + Wedinoon is occupied by a trading race of Arabs and Shelluhs, who + have inter-married, called _Ait Bamaran_. These people are very + anxious to have a port opened in their country, and some sheiks + among them have assured me, that there is a peninsula on their + coast conveniently situated for a port. _This circumstance is well + deserving the attention of the maritime and commercial nations of + the world._] + + [Footnote h: The youngest son of the Emperor Muley Ismael conducted + the expedition here alluded to, about the year of Christ 1727. For + an account of which see the Appendix, page 523.] + +He considers himself now as settled at Tetuan, where he has a wife and +children. He left it about twelve months ago, with three friends, to go +to Hamburg (as before mentioned.) They were confined forty-seven days at +Ostend, were taken the second day of their voyage; the English captain +put them ashore at Dover against their inclination, and proceeded to +Gibraltar with their goods: this was in December, 1789. + +THE CONTINENT. + +The continent of Africa, the discovery of which has baffled the +enterprise of Europe, (unlike every other part of the habitable world,) +still remains, as it were, a sealed book, at least, if the book has been +opened, we have scarcely got beyond the title-page. + +Great merit is due to the enterprise of travellers. The good intention +of the African Association, in promoting scientific researches in this +continent, cannot (by the liberal) be doubted. But something more than +this is necessary to embark _successfully_ in this gigantic undertaking. +I never thought that the system of solitary travellers would produce any +beneficial result. The plan of the expedition of Major Peddie and +Captain Tuckie was still more objectionable than the solitary plan, and +I have reason to think, that no man possessing any personal knowledge of +Africa, ever entertained hopes of the success of those expeditions. +Twenty years ago I declared it as MY decided opinion, that the only way +to obtain a knowledge of this interesting continent, is through the +medium of commercial intercourse. The more our experience of the +successive failure of our African expeditions advances, the more +strongly am I confirmed in this opinion. If we are to succeed in this +great enterprise, we must step out of the beaten path--the road of +error, that leads to disappointment--the road that has been so fatal to +all our ill-concerted enterprises; we must shake off the rust of +precedent, and strike into a new path altogether. + +Do we not lack that _spirit of union_ so expedient and necessary to all +great enterprises? Is not the public good sacrificed to +self-aggrandisement and individual interest.--Let the African +Institution unite its funds to those of the African Association, and +co-operate with the efforts of that society! Let the African Company +also throw in their share of intelligence. The separated and sometimes +discordant interests of all these societies, if united, might effect +much. The _united_ efforts of such societies would do more in a year +towards the civilization of Africa, and the abolition of slavery, than +they will do in ten, unconnected as they now are. _Concordia parva res +crescunt_.--When each looks to particular interests, we cannot expect +the result to be the general good. + +It is probable that the magnificent enterprises of the Portuguese and +Spaniards, would, ere this, have colonised and converted to +Christianity, all the eligible spots of idolatrous Africa, if their +attention to this grand object had not been diverted by the discovery of +America, and their establishments in Brazil, Mexico, &c. + +I was established upwards of sixteen years in West and South Barbary; +territories that maintain an uninterrupted intercourse with all those +countries that Major Houghton, Hornemann, Park, Rontgen, Burckhardt, +Ritchie, and others have attempted to explore. I was diplomatic agent to +several maritime nations of Europe, which familiarised me with all ranks +of society in those countries. I had a perfect knowledge of the +commercial and travelling language of Africa, (the Arabic.) I +corresponded _myself_ with the Emperors, Princes, and Bashaws in this +language; my commercial connections were _very_ extensive, amongst all +the most respectable merchants who traded with Timbuctoo and other +countries of Sudan. My residence at Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in Suse, +afforded me eligible opportunities of procuring information respecting +the trade with Sudan, and the interior of Africa. A long residence in +the country, and extensive connections, enabled me to discriminate, and +to ascertain who were competent and who were not competent to give me +the information I required. I had opportunities at my leisure of +investigating the motives that any might have to deceive me; I had time +and leisure also to investigate their moral character, and to ascertain +the principles that regulated their respective conduct. Possessed of all +these sources of information, how could I fail of procuring correct and +authentic intelligence of the interior of Africa; yet my account of the +two Niles has been doubted by our fire-side critics, and the desultory +intelligence of other travellers, who certainly did not possess those +opportunities of procuring information that I did, has been substituted: +but, notwithstanding this unaccountable scepticism, my uncredited +account of the connection of the two Niles of Africa, continues daily to +receive additional confirmation from all the African travellers +themselves. And thus, TIME, (to use the words of a [j]learned and most +intelligent writer), "which is more obscure in its course than the Nile, +and in its termination than the Niger," is disclosing all these things: +so that I now begin to think that the before-mentioned critics will not +be able much longer to maintain their theoretical hypothesis.[k] + + [Footnote j: Vide the Rev. C. C. Colton's Lacon, sect. 587. p. 260, + 261.] + + [Footnote k: See various letters on Africa, in this work, p. 443.] + +The talents, the extraordinary prudence and forbearance, the knowledge +of the Arabic language, and other essential qualifications in an African +traveller, which the ever-to-be-lamented Burckhardt so eminently +possessed, gave me the greatest hopes of his success in his arduous +enterprise, until I discovered, when reading his Travels, that he was +_poor and despised, though a Muselman_. + +There is too much reason to apprehend that he was suspected, if not +discovered by the Muselmen, or he would not have been _secluded from +their meals_ and society: the Muselmen never (_sherik taam_) eat or +divide food with those they suspect of deception, nor do they ever +_refuse to partake of food with a Muselman_, unless they do suspect him +of treachery or deception; this principle prevails so universally among +them, that artful and designing people have practised as many deceptions +on the Bedouin under the cloak of hospitality, as are practised in +Christian countries under the cloak of religion! I cannot but suspect, +therefore, from the circumstance before recited, that the Muselmism of +Burckhardt was seriously suspected, and that his companions only waited +a convenient opportunity in the Sahara for executing their revenge on +him for the deception. + +The very favourable reception that my account of Marocco met with from +the British public; the many things therein stated, which are daily +gaining confirmation, although they were doubted at the period of their +publication, have contributed in no small degree, to the production of +the following sheets, in which I can conscientiously declare, that truth +has been my guide; I have never sacrificed it to ambition, vanity, +avarice, or any other passion. + +The learned, I am flattered to see, are now beginning to adopt my +orthography of African names; they have lately adopted _Timbuctoo_ for +the old and barbarous orthography of _Timbuctoo_; they have, however, +been upwards of ten years about it. In ten years more, I anticipate that +_Fez_ will be changed into _Fas_, and _Morocco_ into _Marocco_, for this +plain and uncontrovertible reason,--because they are so spelled in the +original language of the countries, of which they are the chief cities. +Since the publication of my account of Marocco, I have seen Arabic words +spelled various ways by the same author (I have committed the same error +myself); but in the following work I have adopted a plan to correct this +prevailing error in Oriental orthography, which, I think, ought to be +followed by every Oriental scholar, as the only correct way of +transcribing them in English; viz. by writing them exactly according to +the original Arabic orthography, substituting _gr_ (not _gh_, as +Richardson directs) for the Arabic guttural [Arabic] grain, and _kh_ +for the guttural _k_ or [Arabic]-- + +_Note._ We should be careful not to copy the orthography of Oriental or +African names from the French, which has too often been done, although +their pronunciation of European letters is very dissimilar from our own. + + + + + CONTENTS. + +_An Account of a Journey from Fas to Timbuctoo, performed about the year +1787, by El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny._ Page 1 + +Route to Timbuctoo.--Situation of the City.--Population.--Inns +or Caravanseras, called Fondaks.--Houses.--Government.--Revenue.--Army. +Administration of Justice.--Succession to Property.--Marriage.--Trade. +Manufactures.--Husbandry.--Provisions.--Animals.--Birds.--Fish.--Prices +of different Articles.--Dress.--Time.--Religion.--Diseases.--Manners +and Customs.--Neighbouring Nations. + +_Journey from Timbuctoo to Housa_ 37 + +The River Neel or Nile.--Housa.--Government.--Administration +of Justice--Landed Property,--Revenues.--Army.--Trade.--Climate. +Zoology.--Diseases.--Religion.--Persons.--Dress.--Buildings.--Manners. +Gold.--Limits of the Empire. + +_Letters, containing an Account of Journies through various Parts of +West and South Barbary, at different Periods, personally performed by +J.G. Jackson._ 55 + +LETTER I. (To James Willis, Esq., late British Consul for Senegambia.) +On the Opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the Province of +Suse; and of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid to the Dutch. _ibid._ + +LETTER II. (To the same.) The Author's Arrival at Agadeer or Santa +Cruz.--He opens the Port to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception +on landing there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading +Custom that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on +Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a Sanctuary +at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been considered Holy Ground, +and none but Muhamedans had ever before been permitted to enter the +Gates on Horseback. 58 + +LETTER III. (To the same.) The Author makes a Commercial Road down the +Mountain, to facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and +Liberality of the Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description +of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength +of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Agurem, and the Portuguese Spring and Tank +there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a Fort.--Eligibility of +the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial Depot to supply the whole +of the Interior of North Africa with East India and European +Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to Commerce and Industry, if +Opportunity offered. 62 + +LETTER IV. (To the same.) Command of the Commerce of Sudan. 67 + +LETTER V. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 69 + +LETTER VI. From the same to the same 71 + +LETTER VII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles +the Customs' Duties of Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abdelmelk, with +the Garrison and Merchants of Santa Cruz, ordered to go to the Court at +Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the Country +and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through which the Author +passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse from Marocco, +originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas.--Extensive +Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco +Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the +Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Prince Abdelmelk's magnificent +Apparel reprobated by the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz shut to the +Commerce of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Marocco.--The Prince +banished to the _Bled Shereef_, or Country of Princes; viz. Tafilelt, of +the Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the +Country.--Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity +of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (_Attar_ +being the Word signifying a Distillation.).--State of Oister Shells on +the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and Marocco, being +a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's Reception on the +Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or Sahara of Mogodor. 73 + +LETTER VIII. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 84 + +Extract of a Letter from His Excellency J.M. Matra, British Envoy to +Marocco, &c. to Mr. Jackson. 85 + +LETTER IX. (To James Willis, Esq.) Custom of visiting the Emperor on his +Arrival at Marocco.--Journey of the Merchants thither on that +Occasion.--No one enters the Imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode +of travelling.--The Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience +of the Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of +Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at +Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, East and +South of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of Eating.--Trades +or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of the Sultan.--Present +received from the Sultan. 86 + +LETTER X. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 99 + +LETTER XI. From the same to the same 101 + +LETTER XII. From the same to the same 103 + +LETTER XIII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Journey from Mogodor to Rabat, to +Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, +to the Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite Country to +L'Araich and Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as (_Tabuk_) +Cook, and Deeb as (_Mule Lukkerzana_) Tent-Master.--Exportation of Wool +granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the Plague.--Arabs, +their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations respecting the River +Tansift.--Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' Pass.--Description of Saffy, and +its Port or Road.--Woladia calculated to make a safe harbour.--Growth of +Tobacco.--Mazagan described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet +Urtemma a dangerous Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat +described.--Mausoleum of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of +Sheila, a Roman Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of +Rabat.--Productive Country about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to +Christians.--The Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait +Zimurh, notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country +disturbed with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City +and its Imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely +beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris or Idris +Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the Fakeers of +the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected from the English +in the Event of an Invasion by Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of +Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of +Pharaoh near the Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.-- + +The Descendants of the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these +People.--Various Tribes of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar +Kabeer.--Its Environs, a beautiful Country.--Forest of +L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as +Imitations of Amber.--Grand Entry of the British Ambassador into +Tangier.--Our Ignorance of African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of +the Provinces of his Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe. 105 + +LETTER XIV. (From His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson.) +Respecting the Result of the British Embassy to the Emperor of Marocco +at Old Fas. 128 + +LETTER XV. (To James Willis, Esq.) European Society at Tangier.--Sects +and Divisions among Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the +Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt upon Christians +themselves.--The Cause of it.--The Conversion of Africa should be +preceded by an Imitation of the divine Doctrine of Christ among +Christians themselves. 129 + +LETTER XVI. (To the same.) Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, +showing the Distances from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic +Ocean; useful to Persons travelling in that Country. 132 + +LETTER XVII. (To the same.) An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to +Saffy, during a Civil War, in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not +pass, owing to the Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and +Shedma.--Stratagem adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger +of being discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, +Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and Compliments +received from him on his having accomplished this perilous Journey. 134 + +LETTER XVIII. (To the same.) Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the +Khalif Delemy in Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in +Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, in +Suse.--Country infested with Rats.--Situation of Tomie.--Entertainment +at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to +entertain his guests.--Arabian Dance and Music.--Manner and Style of +Dancing.--Eulogium of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners +of the latter.--Their personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to +have a Commercial Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince +respecting Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various +Articles of Commerce.--Viceroy's Offer to build a House, and the +Duties.--Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold and Silver +Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and Grapes.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at Delemy's.--Elegant +Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince prepares to depart for +Tafilelt. 137 + +LETTER XIX. (To the same.) Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no +Travellers ventured to pass, owing to Civil War and Contention among the +Kabyles.--Moorish Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of +Travellers.--Travelled with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, +Baggage, or Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land.--Bitter +Effects of Revenge and Retaliation on the happiness of Society.--Origin +of these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with +Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among the +Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic Honey.--Ceremony at +Meals, and Mode of Eating.--Travelled all Night, and slept in the open +Air;--Method of avoiding the Night-dew, as practised by the +Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor. 150 + +_An Account of the Rise, Progress, and Decrease of the Plague that +ravaged West and South Barbary, in 1799, faithfully extracted, from +Letters written before and during its Existence, by the House of James +Jackson & Co., or by James G. Jackson, at Mogodor, to their +Correspondents in Europe._ 156 + +Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson. 163 + +An Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated West and +South Barbary in 1799 and 1800, to the Effects of which the Author was +an eye-witness. 166 + +Cases of Plague. 180 + +Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in West +Barbary, which was imported from Egypt; communicated by the Author to +the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the +Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, No. 15, +published October, 1819. 186 + +_Journey from Tangier to Rabat, through the Plains of Seboo, in Company +with Doctor Bell and the Prince Muley Teib and an Army of Cavalry_. 191 + +Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. Bell.--Description +of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, an +incomparably fine and productive Country.--The Cavalry of the +Amorites;--their unique Observations on Dr. Bell: their mean opinion of +his Art, because he could not cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on +Rafts of inflated Skins.--Spacious tent of Goat's Hair erected for the +Sheik, and appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the +magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian +Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these Plains.--Matamores, +what they are.--Mode of Reaping.-- + +The Prince presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his +Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and the +Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor. 191 + +_Of the excavated Residences of the Inhabitants of Atlas: the Acephali, +Hel Shoual, and Hel el Kitteb_. 198 + +The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System of +solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous Company; +beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the +Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indispensable to +the Conversion of the native Negroes to Christianity. + +_Cautions to be used in Travelling_. 202 + +Danger of Travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself +accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling +between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of +Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of Living among the Arabs; Food, Clothing, +domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs calculated by the +Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are good Figures, and have +personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; poetical Geniuses; Dancing and +Amusements; Musical Instruments; their Manners are courteous. + +_Abundance of Corn produced in West Barbary_. 208 + +Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of Duquella's +Weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or Subterranneous +Depositaries for Corn. + +_Domestic Serpents of Marocco_ 213 + +_Manufactures of Fas_. 214 + +Superior Manufactory of Gold Thread.--Imitation of precious +Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine. + +_On the State of Slavery in Muhamedan Africa_. 219 + +_The Plague of Locusts_. 221 + +Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance of +their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and not on the +other. + +_On the Influence of the great Principle of Christianity on the Moors_. + 224 + +Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent +it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial +Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to attend to +the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French colonizing Senegal, +and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating the Value of our West-India +Islands. + +_Interest of Money._ 237 + +Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital. + +_Plan for the gradual Civilisation of Africa._ 247 + +On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the Sahara and +Ashantee. + +_Prospectus of a Plan for forming a North African or Sudan Company: to +be instituted for the Purpose of establishing an extensive Commerce +with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the Interior Regions of +North Africa._ 251 + +Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the Trade +carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the +Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of North +Africa, and with other States of Sudan. 254 + +Letter from Vasco de Gama, in Elucidation of this Plan. 258 + +Letter on the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, in further Elucidation +of this Plan. 264 + +Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa. 266 + +_Architecture of the Mosques.--Funeral Ceremonies of the Moors,--Gardens +at Fas._ 271 + +_Fragments, Notes, and Anecdotes, illustrating the Nature and Character +of the Country._ 276 + +Introduction,--Trade with Sudan.--Wrecked Ships on the Coast, +278.--Wrecked Sailors.--Timbuctoo Coffee.--Sand Baths.--Civil War common +in West Barbary, 279.--Policy of the Servants of the Emperor.--El Wah El +Grarbee, or the Western Oasis, 280.--Prostration, the Etiquette of the +Court of Marocco, 281.--Massacre of the Jews, and Attack on +Algiers.--Treaties with Muhamedan Princes, 283.--Berebbers of Zimurh +Shelleh--The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation, +284.--The Body of the Emperor Muley Yezzid disinterred, 286. Shelluhs; +their Revenge and Retaliation, 291.--Travelling in Barbary.--Anecdote +displaying the African Character, and showing them to be now what they +were anciently, under Jugurtha, 293.--Every Nation is required to use +its own Costume, 296.--Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under +that Name, 297.--The Emperor's Attack on Dimenet, in the Atlas, +305.--Moral Justice, 306.--Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers +of Atlas.--Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans, 308.--Political +Deception, 309.--Etiquette of the Court of Marocco, 310.--Customs of the +Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas.--Connubial Customs, 313.--Political +Duplicity, 314.--Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco, +315.--Food, viz. Kuscasoe, Hassua, El Hasseeda, 317--The Woled +Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the Plains of Marocco, +317.--The Koran called the Beloved Book.--Arabian Music, +318.--Sigilmessa.--Mungo Park at Timbuctoo.--Troglodyte, 319,--Police of +West Barbary, 320.--Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed, an Anecdote of, +322,--Anecdote of Muley Ismael, 323.--Library at Fas, 324.--Deism, +325--Muhamedan Loyalty.--Cairo, 326.--Races of Men constituting the +Inhabitants of West and South Barbary, and that part of Bled el Jereed, +called Tafilelt and Sejin Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the +territories of the present Emperor of Marocco: the Moors--the +Berebbers--the Shelluhs, 327.--The Arabs--the Jews--Douars, +328.--Various Modes of Intoxication, 329.--Division of Agricultural +Property, 331.--Mines.--Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, +called by the Arabs _Butelleese_; and its Remedy, 332.--Vaccination, +336.--Game, 338.--Agriculture.--Mitferes, 339.--Laws of Hospitality, +340.--Punishment for Murder.--Insolvency Laws, 343.--Dances, +344.--Circumcision.--Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, +345.--Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, 346.--Invoice from +Timbuctoo to Fas, 347.--Translation of its accompanying Letter from +Timbuctoo, 348.--Food of the Desert,--Antithesis, a favourite Figure +with the Arabs, 349.--Arabian Modes of Writing, 350.--Decay of Science +and of Arts among the Arabs, 352.--Extraordinary Abstinence experienced +in the Sahara. 353 + +_Languages of Africa._ 355 + +Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the +Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the Mandinga +Language.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the Wah el +Grarbie, or Oasis of Ammon, and with the original Language of the Canary +Islands, and similitude of Customs. + +_Titles of the Emperor of Marocco._ 382 + +Style of addressing him. 383 + +_Specimens of Muhamedan Epistolatory Correspondence._ 384 + +LETTER I. Translation of a Letter from Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, +to Captain Kirke, at Tangier, Ambassador from King Charles the Second, +A.D. 1684. _ibid_ + +LETTER II. From the same to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, on board the Charles +Galley, off Sallee, A.D. 1684. 387 + +LETTER III, Captain Shovel's Answer, September 1684. 389 + +LETTER IV. Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter to +Queen Anne, A.D. 1710, from the Harl. MSS. 7525. 392 + +LETTER V. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben +Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident at +Tangier, delivered to each of them by the Bashaw of the Province of El +Grarb, A.D. 1788. 394 + +LETTER VI. From Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. +to His Majesty George the Third, literally translated by J.G. Jackson, +at the Request of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, after lying in the +Secretary of State's Office here for several Months, and being sent +ineffectually to the Universities, and after various Enquiries had been +made on Behalf of the Emperor to the Governor of Gibraltar, the Bashaw +of El Grarb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any Answer had +been returned to His Imperial Majesty. 395 + +LETTER VII. Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated +from the original Arabic, by J.G. Jackson. 398 + +LETTER VIII. From Hulaku the Tartar, Conqueror of the East, to Al Malek +Annasar, Sultan of Aleppo, A.D. 1259. 399 + +LETTER IX. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to +Webster Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their +High Mightinesses, the States General of the Seven United Provinces, +written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and previous to the +Negociation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz to +Dutch Commerce. 402 + +LETTER X. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid to the +Governor of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the +Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation. 402 + +LETTER XI. Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa in their +Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan +Faith, A.D. 1797. 404 + +LETTER XII. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed, +Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor, A.D. 1791, A.H. 1203. 405 + +_Doubts having been made, in the Daily Papers, concerning the Accuracy +of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of +Mungo Park's Death, the following Observations by the Author are laid +before the Public, in Elucidation of those Translations._ 406 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (The Author's +Translation). 409 + +Observation. 410 + +Extract from the Times, May 3, 1819.--Mungo Park. 412 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (Mr. Abraham +Saleme's Translation). 413 + +Letter to the Editor of the British Statesman, on the Errors in Mr. +Saleme's Translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of the Death of +Mungo Park. 415 + +_Letters respecting Africa, from J.G. Jackson and other._ 419 + +On the Plague. To James Willis, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. 419 + +Death of Mungo Park. 424 + +Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of Africa. + 425 + +Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called +Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in +Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication between +Timbuctoo and Egypt. 429 + +Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia or Night-blindness, +in a Letter addressed to the Editor of the Literary Panorama. 432 + +Letter to the same. 433 + +Critical Observations on Extracts from the Travels of Ali Bey and Robert +Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the Arts, +edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain. Vol. I. No. 2, p. 264. + 435 + +On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, or of +Sudan. 443 + +Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of +Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of +Marocco, &c. 446 + +Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names (by Catherine Hutton). + 455 + +Hints for the Civilization of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce, by +Vasco de Gama. 457 + +Plan for the Conquest of Algiers, by Vasco de Gama. 461 + +Letter from El Hage Hamed El Wangary, respecting a Review of Ali Bey's +Travels, in the "Portfolio," an American Periodical Work. 464 + +On the Negroes (by Vasco de Gama). 465 + +Cursory Observations on Lieutenant Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal of a +Route across India, through Egypt, to England. 467 + +On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Europe, Asia, and Africa. 471 + +Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an Account +of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors +that have been committed by European travellers on that Continent, from +their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the learned and the general +travelling Language of that interesting Part of the World. 474 + +Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa. 493 + +The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the sworne Esquires of Queen +Elizabeth, from Her Highness, to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Marocco, +and King of Fez and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. Written by Himselfe. 494 + +Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L., and E. 505 + +Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels in +Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D. by Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 508 + +Cursory Observations on African Names. 509 + +Letter to the Author from Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 513 + +On the Two Niles of Africa, or the Niger and the Nile. 514 + +APPENDIX. + +_Historical Fragments in Elucidation of the foregoing pages._ 519 + +First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo--Timbuctoo and Guago captured by +Muley Hamed (Son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk, or +Muley Moluck) in the Sixteenth Century (about the Year 1580). 519 + +A Library of 3000 Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards.--Contests +among Christians reprimanded. 520 + +Muley El Arsheed (a Second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan). 521 + +Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan. 523 + + + * * * * * + +DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. + + +Map of the Tracks across the Sahara to Timbuctoo, _to face_. 1 + +Map of the Empire of Marocco. 55 + + +[Illustration] + +1 + + AN + ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY + FROM + FAS TO TIMBUCTOO, + PERFORMED IN OR ABOUT THE YEAR 1787, A.C. + BY + _EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY_. + + + The Moors always prefer the spring and summer for travelling, + because they suffer very much from the severe cold of the mornings + in winter. They generally leave Fas in the beginning of April to + proceed to Timbuctoo, and they leave Timbuctoo to return to Fas in + the month of January. + + The Mecca caravan takes its departure from Fas the beginning of + March. + + In travelling, the Moors hire their camels from stage to stage. + Shabeeny's first stage was from Fas[1] to Tafilelt, which is + generally performed in about twenty days. + + [Footnote 1: This is a journey of crooked and rugged roads + across the Atlas mountains, where they often sojourn in spots + which invite the traveller, so that it takes a longer time to + perform it than the distance would indicate.] +2 + The hire of every camel was from ten to twelve ducats, at five + shillings sterling per ducat; as this route is through a very + mountainous country, and the travelling is very bad, the charges + were proportionally high; the weight which every camel carried was + between four and five quintals, the camels in this country being + strong and very large.[2] + + Tafilelt is the place of general meeting of all the merchants who + go to Timbuctoo.[3] + + The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns, but abounds in + fortresses with mud-walls[4], which the natives call El Kassar, and + which contain from three to four hundred families; in these + fortresses there is a public market (in Arabic, _soke_) every week, + where the inhabitants purchase provisions, &c. + + The natives of Tafilelt are descendants of the shereefs[5] or + princes of Marocco, and are therefore of the Imperial family. + + [Footnote 2: This charge of carriage by the camels from Fas to + Tafilelt, is equal to 55s., sterling per camel; to 1-1/2d. per + mile for each camel, and to one farthing and one third per + quintal of merchandise per mile.] + + [Footnote 3: That is for all who go from the Emperor of + Marocco's dominions, north of the river Morbeya, which is + called El Garb, or the North Western Division.] + + [Footnote 4: These mud walls are made in cases, and the mode of + erecting them is called _tabia_. See Jackson's Account of the + Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 298.] + + [Footnote 5: Hence it is called _Bled Shereef_, i.e. the + Country of Princes.] +3 + Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha[6], which he reached in six + days. The expense per camel was about six ducats, or thirty + shillings sterling. The district of Draha abounds in the small hard + date[7], which is very fine; from four to six drahems[8] (equal to + two to three shillings sterling) is the price of a camel load of + these dates. + + The province of Draha is larger than that of Tafilelt, its + circumference being about four or five days' journey. The + natives[9] of Draha are very dark, approaching to black, in their + complexion: this province abounds in fortresses, like those of + Tafilelt. + + [Footnote 6: A province at the foot of the mountains of Atlas, + south of Marocco, for which see the Map of West Barbary, in + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. p. 1.] + + [Footnote 7: This date is called by the natives _bouskree:_ it + contains a larger quantity of saccharine juice than any other + date. This province also produces a date called _butube_, which + is the best that grows, and is called _sultan de timmar_, i.e. + the king of dates. It is not used as an article of commerce, + but is sent as presents to the great, and costs nearly double + the price of those of any other quality: the quality mostly + used for foreign commerce, is the Tafilelt date, called _timmar + adamoh_, which is sold by the grocers in London. This species + is, however, considered very unwholesome food, and accordingly + is never eaten by the Filellies, or inhabitants of Tafilelt, + but is food for the camels. The district of Tafilelt abounds in + dates of all kinds: there are not less than thirty different + kinds; and the plantations of dates belonging to the princes of + Tafilelt are very extensive, insomuch that the annual produce + of one plantation is often sold for a thousand dollars, or 220L + sterling. Half a dollar, or five drahems per camel load of + three quintals.] + + [Footnote 8: A drahem is a silver coin, ten of which are equal + to a Mexico dollar.] + + [Footnote 9: Their colour is darker than new copper, but not + black, It may be compared to the colour of _old_ mahogany, with + a black hue. The natives of Draha are proverbially stupid.] +4 + The caravans have not, as in the journey to Mecca, their sheiks[10] + or commanders. From Fas to Tafilelt they had no chief, but as there + are generally a few old, rich, and respectable men in the caravan, + its direction and government are committed to their care. + + [Footnote 10: The _sheik akkabar_, or chief of the accumulated + caravan, is generally a _shereef_ or prince.] + + From Tafilelt, which, as before observed, is the country of the + shereefs, they are guided by such of the trading shereefs as + accompany the caravan, and who have always great respect paid them, + till they arrive at Timbuctoo. The caravan increases as it proceeds + in its journey: at Fas it consisted of about thirty or forty; at + Draha, of from 300 to 400 camels. From Draha, at the distance of + three days' travelling, they found water by digging, and on the + next morning they entered the _Sahara_, which, for the first twenty + days is a plain sandy desert resembling the sea. In this desert, + when they pitch their tents at night, they are obliged frequently + to shake the sand from their tops, as they would otherwise be + overwhelmed before the morning. + + Some part of this desert is hard, and the camels do not sink deep + into it; in others the sand is very loose, which fatigues the +5 camels exceedingly. In travelling, the caravan is directed by the + stars at night, and by the sun in the day, and occasionally by the + smell of the earth, which they take up in their hands. For the + first twenty days after they enter this wilderness they have no + water; during this period, the caravan is obliged to carry water in + goat-skins[11], as not a drop is to be found by digging. On this + account, about a third part of the camels are employed in carrying + water, and even with this quantity the camels are often left for + three or four days without any. They never use mules in this part + of the journey; they neither find the _sheh_[12], nor the thorny + plant so common in the deserts of Africa. + + The country on the borders of this desert, to the right and left, + is inhabited by roving Arabs, at the distance of three or four days + from the track which the caravan pursues; and is said to be partly + plain, and in part hilly, with a little grass, and a few shrubs; + when the cattle of these Arabs have consumed what grows in one + spot, their owners remove to another. The caravan, though it + generally consisted of about 400 men well armed, seeks its route + through the most unfrequented part of the desert, from a dread of + the attacks of the Arabs. The hottest wind is that from the + east-south-east, and is called _Esshume_[13]; the coldest is that + which blows from the west-north-west. To alleviate the great + drought which travellers feel in the desert, they have recourse to + melted butter.[14] + + [Footnote 11: These goat-skins, when containing water, are + called by the Arabs _kereb_, or _ghireb_, plur. _kerba_, or + _ghirba_, sing.] + + [Footnote 12: The _sheh_ is the wormseed plant, the thorny + plant here alluded to is the wild myrtle.] + + [Footnote 13: _Esshume_, or the hot wind. For a particular + description of this extraordinary wind, see Jackson's Account + of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 283 + and 284.] + + [Footnote 14: This is old butter kept several years in a + _matamore_, or subterraneous cavern. It is called by the Arabs + of the desert, _budra_; and much virtue is ascribed to it when + it has attained a certain age: a small quantity swallowed, + quickly diffuses itself through the system.] + +6 After passing this desert of twenty days, they enter a country + which varies in its appearance, particular spots being fertile[15] + (called El Wah). Here they meet with _sederah_[16], a kind of wild + myrtle, in great quantities. This plant is called by the natives, + _gylan:_ its height is about that of a man; the camels feed upon + it. Between these shrubs there is a very small quantity of grass in + particular spots. In this part of the desert they meet with + extensive strata of stones: though the surface is generally sand, + yet at the depth of eight or ten inches, they meet with a yellow or + reddish earth; and about four feet deeper, with another kind of + earth of various colours, but most commonly of a brownish cast; +7 about five or six feet under this they find water, which springs + up very slowly, and at the bottom of this water you meet with a + light sand. Sometimes the water is sweetish, frequently brackish, + and generally warm. This last desert is about twenty days' journey, + and is a vast plain without any mountains. They meet with no Arabs + in this part, but the country on the right and left of their route, + at the distance of from three to eight days' journey, is inhabited + by Arabs, who are governed by their own (_sheiks_) chiefs, and are + perfectly independent. + + [Footnote 15: El Wah. For a full explanation of this term, see + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, 3d edition, p. + 283.] + + [Footnote 16: _Sederah_, thorny shrubs of all kinds are so + called.] + + From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of forty-three days, they meet + with no trees, except the _sederah_, no rivers, towns, or huts. + From Draha, which is a country abounding in camels, to Timbuctoo, + the charge per camel is from sixteen to twenty-one ducats.[17] That + so long a journey is performed at so small[18] an expense, is owing + to the abundance of camels in Draha. The caravan generally contains + from 300 to 400 men, of whom a great part prefer walking to the + uneasy motion of the camels. + + [Footnote 17: From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 11 ducats per + camel. + + Tafilelt to Draha, 6 do. 6 do. do. + + Draha to Timbuctoo, 48 do. 18-1/2 do. do. + + --- ---- + + 69 days, for 35-1/2 ducats per camel + load, which is about the rate of one farthing per quintal per + mile. This does not include the expense of camels for the + conveyance of merchants, servants, &c. or of provisions or + water, but merely of those carrying goods. A full account of + these caravans, and their mode of crossing the Sahara, will be + found in Jackson's Marocco, ch. 13.] + + [Footnote 18: The expense is now (A.C. 1818) smaller, as the + ducat, by a coinage which is depreciated, has fallen to 3s. 6d. + sterling.] +8 + SITUATION OF THE CITY OF TIMBUCTOO. + + On the east side of the city of Timbuctoo, there is a large forest, + in which are a great many elephants. The timber here is very large. + The trees on the outside of the forest are remarkable for having + two different colours; that side which is exposed to the morning + sun is black, and the opposite side is yellow. The body of the tree + has neither branches nor leaves, but the leaves, which are + remarkably large, grow upon the top only: so that one of these + trees appears, at a distance, like the mast and round top of a + ship. Shabeeny has seen trees in England much taller than these: + within the forest the trees are smaller than on its skirts. There + are no trees resembling these in the Emperor of Marocco's + dominions. They are of such a size that the largest cannot be + girded by two men. They bear a kind of berry about the size of a + walnut, in clusters consisting of from ten to twenty berries. + Shabeeny cannot say what is the extent of this forest, but it is + very large. Close to the town of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a + small rivulet in which the inhabitants wash their clothes, and + which is about two feet deep. It runs in the great forest on the + east, and does not communicate with the Nile, but is lost in the + sands west of the town. Its water is brackish; that of the Nile is +9 good and pleasant. The town of Timbuctoo is surrounded by a + mud-wall: the walls are built tabia-wise[19] as in Barbary, + viz. they make large wooden cases, which they fill with mud, and + when that dries they remove the cases higher up till they have + finished the wall. They never use stone or brick; they do not know + how to make bricks. The wall is about twelve feet high, and + sufficiently strong to defend the town against the wild Arabs, who + come frequently to demand money from them. It has three gates; one + called Bab Sahara, or the gate of the desert, on the north: + opposite to this, on the other side of the town, a second, called + Bab Neel, or the gate of the Nile: the third gate leads to the + forest on the east, and is called Beb El Kibla.[20] The gates are + hung on very large hinges, and when shut at night, are locked, as + in Barbary; and are farther secured by a large prop of wood placed + in the inside slopingly against them. There is a dry ditch, or + excavation, which circumscribes the town, (except at those places + which are opposite the gates,) about twelve feet deep, and too wide +10 for any man to leap it. The three gates of the town are shut + every evening soon after sun-set: they are made of folding doors, + of which there is only one pair. The doors are lined on the outside + with untanned hides of camels, and are so full of nails that no + hatchet can penetrate them; the front appears like one piece of + iron. + + [Footnote 19: The tabia walls are thus built: They put boards + on each side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the + ground, or attached to other stakes laid transversely across + the wall; the intermediate space is then filled with sand and + mud, and beat down with large wooden mallets, (as they beat the + terraces) till it becomes hard and compact; the cases are left + on for a day or two; they then take them off, and move them + higher up, repeating this operation till the wall is finished.] + + [Footnote 20: El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed: in most + African towns there is a Kibla-gate, which faces Medina in + Arabia.] + + POPULATION. + + The town is once and a half the size of Tetuan[21], and contains, + besides natives, about 10,000[22] of the people of Fas and Marocco. + The native inhabitants of the town of Timbuctoo may be computed at + 40,000, exclusive of slaves and foreigners. Many of the merchants + who visit Timbuctoo are so much attached to the place that they + cannot leave it, but continue there for life. The natives are all + blacks: almost every stranger marries a female of the town, who are + so beautiful that travellers often fall in love with them at first + sight. + + [Footnote 21: That is about four miles in circumference. Tetuan + contains 16,000 inhabitants; but, according to this account, + Timbuctoo contains 50,000, besides slaves, a population above + three times that of Tetuan: now, as the houses of Timbuctoo are + more spacious than those of Tetuan, it is to be apprehended + that Shabeeny has committed an error in describing the size of + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 22: Who go there for the purposes of trade.] + + INNS, OR CARAVANSERAS. + + When strangers arrive they deposit their merchandise in large + warehouses called fondacs; and hire as many rooms as they choose, +11 having stables for their camels, &c. in the same place. These + fondacs[23] are private property, and are called either by the + owner's name, or by that of the person who built them. The fondac, + in which Shabeeny and his father lived, had forty apartments for + men, exclusive of stables; twenty below and twenty above, the place + having two stories. The staircase was within the inclosure, and was + composed of rough boards; while he staid, the rooms were constantly + occupied by natives and strangers; they hired rooms for three + months, for which they paid thirty okiat, or fifteen shillings + sterling per month. These fondacs are called Woal[24] by the + negroes. The money was paid to the owner's agent, who always lives + in the fondac for this purpose, and to accommodate strangers with + provisions, &c. At their arrival, porters assisted them and + procured every thing they wanted; but when they were settled they + hired a man and a woman slave to cook and to clean their rooms, and + to do every menial office. Slaves are to be bought at all hours: + the slave-merchants keep a great number ready for sale. + + [Footnote 23: It is probable that Adams, the American sailor, + (if he ever was at Timbuctoo,) saw one of these fondacs that + belonged to the king, and mistook it for his palace.] + + [Footnote 24: Ten okiat, or drahems, make a Mexico dollar. The + name of the king of Timbuctoo, in 1800 A.C. was Woolo. Many of + the fondacs are rented of him.] + + HOUSES. + + In the houses little furniture is seen; the principal articles +12 (those of the kitchen excepted) are beds, mats on the floor, and + the carpets; which cover the whole room. The rooms are about + fourteen feet by ten; the kitchen and wash-house are generally to + the right and to the left of the passage; the necessary is next the + wash-house.[25] + + [Footnote 25: Being more convenient for the Muhamedan + ablutions.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + Timbuctoo is governed by a native black, who has the title of + sultan. He is tributary to the sultan of Housa, and is chosen by + the inhabitants of Timbuctoo, who write to the king of Housa for + his approbation. Upon the death of a sultan, his eldest son is most + commonly chosen. The son of a concubine cannot inherit the throne; + if the king has no lawful son (son of his wife) at his decease, the + people choose his successor from among his relations. The sultan + has only one lawful wife, but keeps many concubines: the wife has a + separate house for herself, children, and slaves. He has no + particular establishment for his concubines, but takes any girl he + likes from among his slaves. His wife has the principal management + of his house. The sultan's palace is built in a corner of the city, + on the east; it occupies a large extent of ground within an + inclosure, which has a gate. Within this square are many buildings; + some for the officers of state. The king often sits in the gate to + administer justice, and to converse with his friends. There is a +13 small garden within it, furnishing a few flowers and vegetables for + his table; there is also a well, from which the water is drawn by a + wheel.[26] Many female slaves are musicians. The king has several + sons, who are appointed to administer justice to the natives. + Except the king's relations, there are no nobles nor any privileged + class of men as in Barbary[27]: those of the blood-royal are much + respected. The officers of state are distinguished by titles like + those of Marocco; one that answers to an Alkaid, _i. e._ a captain + of 700, of 500, or of 100 men; another like that of Bashaw. The + king, if he does not choose to marry one of his own relations, + takes a wife from the family of the chiefs of his council; his + daughters marry among the great men. The queen-dowager has + generally an independent provision, but cannot marry. The + concubines of a deceased king cannot marry, but are handsomely + provided for by his successor. + + [Footnote 26: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a + mule or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a + trough as they pass round, which trough discharges the water + into the garden, and immerges the plants.] + + [Footnote 27: The privileged class of men in Barbary, are the + Fakeers; but no one in Barbary is noble but the King's + relations, who are denominated shereefs.] + + REVENUE. + + The revenue arises partly from land and partly from duties upon all + articles exposed to sale. The king has lands cultivated by farmers +14 who are obliged to supply his household and troops; the surplus + after the support of their own families is deposited in + matamores[28], these are stores to be used in time of scarcity: the + matamores are about six feet deep. The king often gives gold-dust, + slaves, &c. to his favorites, but the royal domains are never + given. Lands not very fruitful are common pastures. Moors pay no + duties; they say they will not bring goods if compelled to pay + duty, but the natives must pay; the duties are collected by the + king's officers, they are four per cent. upon each article _ad + valorem_. At the gate of the desert, goods brought by foreigners + pay nothing, but goods brought in by the gate of the Nile, (which + is the gate of the Negroes,) pay a tax: another part of the revenue + is two per cent, in kind on the produce of the land; but the people + of Barbary do not pay even this for what land they cultivate. The + property of those who die without heirs goes to the king, but when + a foreigner dies the king takes no part of his property; it is kept + for his relations. Timbuctoo being a frontier town remits no + revenue to Housa; the king of Housa sends money to Timbuctoo to pay + the garrison. + + [Footnote 28: Subterraneous excavations, or rooms in the form + of a cone, which have a small opening like a trap-door; when + these matamores are full of grain, they are shut, and the air + being excluded, the grain deposited in them will keep sound + twenty or thirty years. I have been in matamores in West and in + South Barbary, that would contain 1000 saas of wheat, or nearly + 2000 bushels Winchester measure. They are from six to sixteen + feet deep, and of various conical forms.] +15 + ARMY. + + The troops are paid by the king of Housa, and are armed with pikes, + swords, cutlasses, sabres, and muskets; the other natives use the + bow and arrow. At Timbuctoo, in time of war, there are about 12,000 + or 15,000 troops, 5000 of which receive constant daily pay in time + of peace, and are clothed every year; they are all infantry except + a few of the king's household. Sometimes he subsidises the friendly + Arabs, and makes occasional presents to their chiefs[29]; these + Arabs can furnish him with from 80,000 to 40,000 men. + + [Footnote 29: Of the Brabeesh clan; see the Map.] + + ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. + + Punishments are the bastinado, imprisonment, and fine. He + recollects but one prison. If a native stabs another, he is obliged + to attend the wounded man until he recovers; if he dies, the + offender is put to death. The offender must pay a daily allowance + to the wounded man for his support; if the wound appears dangerous, + the culprit is immediately imprisoned; if the wounded man recovers, + the offender must pay a fine and suffer the bastinado. There are + four capital punishments: beheading, hanging, strangling and + bastinadoing to death. Beheading is preferred; it is thus + performed: the criminal sits down, and a person behind gives him a + blow or push on the back or shoulder, which makes him turn his + head, and while his attention is thus employed, the executioner +16 strikes it off. Hanging and strangling are seldom used; and + bastinadoing to death, is only inflicted when the crime is highly + aggravated. Capital crimes are murder, robbery with violence, and + stealing cattle. Small offences, as stealing slaves and other + articles, are punished by the bastinado. The landed estates of + criminals are never forfeited.[30] The police is so good, that + merchants reside there in perfect safety. There are no exactions or + extortions practised by government, as in Barbary, nor even any + presents asked for the king. A debtor proving his inability, cannot + be molested[31]; but to the extent of his means he is always + liable; on refusing to pay, he may be imprisoned; but upon proving + his insolvency before the judge, he is discharged, though always + liable if he should have means at any future time. Watchmen patrole +17 in the night with their dogs; others are stationed in particular + places, as the market-place and the _kasserea_, or square, where + the merchants have their shops. Guards are placed at the king's + palace. Capital crimes are tried by the king: smaller offences by + inferior magistrates. The council sit with the king, every man + according to his rank; it consists of the principal officers of his + household; he asks _their_ opinion, but unless they are unanimous, + decides according to his own. There are always five or six judges + sitting in the king's court for the general administration of + justice. The king is understood to have no power of altering the + laws: if the council are unanimous, the king never decides against + them.[32] + + [Footnote 30: But go to the next heir.] + + [Footnote 31: This is the written Muhamedan law: the insolvent + is always liable, but cannot be arrested or imprisoned whilst + he remains insolvent, but continues always liable for the debt + if he afterwards becomes solvent. The present Emperor of + Marocco has lately published an edict. Hearing that his Jew + subjects in London frequently became bankrupts, or made + compositions with their creditors, has enacted, that all, + persons in his dominions who live by buying and selling, shall + pay their just debts; but if unable, their brethren, or + relations shall pay their creditors for them. If _they_ are + unable, the insolvent is to receive a beating every morning at + sunrise, to remind him of his defalcation. This law was enacted + at Fas in 1817, and since then, I am informed, no bankruptcy + has happened in that great commercial city.] + + [Footnote 32: This is a custom derived from Muhamedan + governments.] + + A slave is entirely at his master's disposal, who may put him to + death without trial; yet the slave may complain to the council of + ill-usage, and if the complaint be well-founded, his master is + ordered to sell him. The slaves are always foreign; a native cannot + be made a slave. There are three reasons for which a slave may be + entitled to freedom: _want of food, want of clothes, and want of + shoes_: an old slave is frequently set at liberty, and returns to + his own country. The children of slaves are the property of their + master. Slaves cannot marry without the consent of their masters. + The master of the female slave generally endeavours to buy the male + to whom she is attached.[33] + + [Footnote 33: Many conscientious Muhamedans, in purchasing + slaves, calculate how many years' service their purchase money + is equal to. Thus, if a man pays a servant twenty dollars + a-year for wages, and he gives 100 dollars for a slave, he + retains the slave five years, when, if his conduct has been + approved, he often discharges him from servitude. The period + for liberating slaves in this manner is however quite optional, + and admits of great latitude; neither is there any compulsion + in the master. I have known instances of a slave being + liberated after a few years of servitude; and his master's + confidence has been such that he has advanced him money to + trade with, and has allowed him to cross the desert to + Timbuctoo, waiting for the repayment of his money till his + return. This is often the treatment of Muhamedans to slaves! + how different from that practised by the Planters in the West + India Islands!!!] +18 + SUCCESSION TO PROPERTY. + + Upon the decease of a native, the first claim is that of his + creditors; the next is that of his widow, who is entitled to the + dower[34] promised by her husband to her father, if, not already + paid, and to one-eighth of the remainder; the rest is divided among + the children. A son's share is double that of a daughter. If they + agree, the land may be sold, if not, it must be divided as above. + Of lands and houses, nothing is sold till the children arrive at + the age of discretion; when each is entitled to his share, the rest + being unsold till the others are of age in turn. This age is not +19 fixed at so many years, but the period of discretion is determined + by the relations, upon oath, before a magistrate: there is hardly + any man that knows his own age. The father may dispose of his + property by will, as far as regards the property of his children, + but he cannot divest his wife of her rights; if a wife dies without + a will, her children succeed. Wills are not written; the guardian + appointed by the father takes care of the property of the deceased, + and employs in trade, and lends out the money for the benefit of + his children. Relations succeed if there are no children; and if + there are no relations, the king takes all but the wife's share. + The wife's relations are not considered as the husband's relations. + Children of concubines inherit equally with those of the wife. If a + man have two children by a concubine, she becomes free at his + death, otherwise she remains a slave. She is entitled, having + children, to an eighth of the property. + + [Footnote 34: The husband always stipulates to pay the father + of his wife a certain sum: this is the Muhamedan dower.] + + MARRIAGE. + + A man agrees to pay a certain price to the father of his wife, and + witnesses are called to support the proof of the contract: the girl + is sent home, and at night a feast is made by the husband for his + male friends; by the wife for her female friends. + + Rape is punished by death. Adultery is not punishable by the law, + nor is it a ground for divorce. A husband may always put away his +20 wife, but if without sufficient legal ground, he must pay her + stipulated dower. Abusive language is a sufficient ground of + divorce, but adultery is not. The dower is the price originally + agreed upon with the father; and if it has been already paid (which + it seldom is), she has no further claim upon the husband, though + put away without sufficient ground. Her clothes, jewels, &c. given + to her by her relations are her own property. A father generally + gives the daughter in jewels, &c. a present double the value of + that given him by the husband. A man can have but one wife, but may + keep concubines. Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by law. + The law says, "a woman's flesh is her own, she may do with it what + she pleases." Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his niece, + but not his daughter. + + The people of Timbuctoo are not circumcised. + + TRADE. + + Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the country of the blacks, + and even for Marocco and Alexandria. + + The principal articles of merchandise are tobacco, kameemas[35], + beads of all colours for necklaces, and cowries, which are bought +21 at Fas by the pound.[36] Small Dutch looking glasses, some of which + are convex, set in gilt paper frames. They carry neither swords, + muskets, nor knives, except such as are wanted in the caravan. At + the entrance of the desert they buy rock-salt[37] of the Arabs, who + bring it to them in loads ready packed, which they carry as an + article of trade. In their caravan there were about 500 camels, of + which about 150 or 200 were laden with salt. The camels carry less + of salt than of any other article, because (being rock-salt) it + wears their sides. They pay these Arabs from twenty to fifteen + ounces[38] of Barbary money per load. An ounce of Barbary is worth + about _6d._, and a ducat is worth about _5s._ sterling. They sell + this salt at Timbuctoo upon an average at 50 per cent. profit; it + is more profitable than linen. They take no oil from Barbary to + Timbuctoo as they are supplied from other places with fish-oil used + for lamps but not for food; they make soap with the oil. The + returns are made in gold-dust, slaves, ivory, and pepper; gold-dust + is preferred and is brought to Timbuctoo from Housa in small + leather bags. He bought one of these bags of gold-dust and pieces + of rings for 90 Mexican dollars, and sold it at Fas for 150. The + merchants bring their gold from Timbuctoo in the saddle-bags, in +22 small purses of different sizes one within the other. The bag which + Shabeeny purchased was bought at Housa, where it sells for seven or + eight ducats cheaper than at Timbuctoo. On articles from Marocco + they make from thirty to fifty per cent. clear profit. Cowries and + gold-dust are the medium of traffic. The shereefs and other + merchants generally sell their goods to some of the principal + native merchants, and immediately send off the slaves, taking their + gold-dust with them into other countries. The merchants residing at + Timbuctoo have agents or correspondents in other countries; and are + themselves agents in return. Timbuctoo is visited by merchants from + all the neighbouring black countries. Some of its inhabitants are + amazingly rich. The dress of common women has been often worth 1000 + dollars. A principal source of their wealth is lending gold-dust + and slaves at high interest to foreign merchants, which is repaid + by goods from Marocco and other countries, to which the gold-dust + and slaves are carried. They commonly trade in the public market, + but often send to the merchant or go to his house. Cowries in the + least damaged are bad coin, and go for less than those that are + perfect. There are no particular market days; the public market for + provisions is an open place fifty feet square, and is surrounded by + shops.[39] The Arabs sit down on their goods in the middle, till +23 they have sold them. The pound weight of Timbuctoo is about two + ounces heavier than the small pound of Barbary, which weighs twenty + Spanish dollars; they have also half and quarter pounds; by these + weights is sold milk, rice, butter, &c. as well as by the measure. + The weights are of wood or iron under the inspection of a + magistrate called in Barbary _m'tasseb, i.e._ inspector of weights + and measures, and if the weights are found deficient, he punishes + the offender immediately; they have also a quintal or cwt. They + have a wooden measure called a _m'hoad_[40], equal to the small + _m'hoad_ of Barbary, where a _m'hoad_ of wheat weighs about 24 lb. + Both the weights and measures are divided into 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and + 1/16. + + [Footnote 35: _Kameema_ is the Arabic word for the linen called + _plattilias_. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 36: Called, in Amsterdam, _Velt Spiegels_, and in + Timbuctoo, _Murraih de juah_.] + + [Footnote 37: This salt is bought at Tishet, at Shangareen, and + at Arawan, in the south part of Sahara; for which see the Map + of Northern and Central Africa, in the new Supplement to the + Encyclopaedia Britannica, Article _Africa_.] + + [Footnote 38: _Okia_ is the Arabic name for this piece of + money.] + + [Footnote 39: Similar to the corn-market at Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 40: The _m'hoad_ is no longer used in Barbary. There + is a _krube_, of which sixteen are equal to a _saa_, which, + when filled with good wheat, weighs 100 lbs. equal to 119 lbs. + English weight.] + + MANUFACTURES. + + The black natives are smiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, and + masons, but not weavers. The Arabs in the neighbourhood are + weavers, and make carpets resembling those of Fas and of Mesurata, + where they are called telisse[41]; they are of wool, from their own + sheep, and camels' hair. The bags for goods, and the tents, are of + goats' and camels' hair; there are no palmetto trees in that + country. Their thread[42], needles, scissors, &c. come from Fas: +24 most of their ploughs they buy of the Arabs near the town, who are + subject to it. Some are made in the town. These Arabs manufacture + iron from ore found in the country, and are good smiths. They make + iron bars of an excellent quality. They tan leather for soles of + shoes very well, but know nothing of dressing leather in oil: the + upper leather comes from Fas[43]; their wooden combs[44] and spoons + come from Barbary; they have none of ivory or horn. No lead is + brought from Barbary; he thinks they have lead of their own. The + best shoes are brought from Fas. + + [Footnote 41: _Telissa_, sing.; _Telisse_, plur.] + + [Footnote 42: To Fas they are brought from England through + Gibraltar and Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 43: Leather is also imported from Marocco, and from + Terodant in South Barbary.] + + [Footnote 44: Wooden combs are imported from Marseilles to + Mogodor.] + + HUSBANDRY. + + The country is well cultivated, except on the side of the desert. + They have rice, _el bishna_[45], and a corn which _they_ call + _allila_[46], but in Barbary it is called _drah_: this requires + very rich ground. They make bread of _el bishna_: they have no + wheat or barley. Property is fenced by a bank and a ditch. Dews are + very heavy. Lands are watered by canals cut from the Nile; high + lands by wells, the water of which is raised by wheels[47] worked +25 by cattle, as in Egypt. They have violent thunder-storms in summer, + but no rains: the mornings and evenings, during winter, are cold; + the coldest wind is from the west, when it is as cold as at Fas. + The winter lasts about two months, though the weather is cool from + September to April. They begin to sow rice in August and September, + but they can sow it at any time, having water at hand: he saw some + sowing rice while others were reaping it. _El bishna_ and other + corn is sown before December. _El bishna_ is ripe in June and July; + as are beans. _Allila_ may be sown at all seasons; it requires + water only every eight or ten days. Their beans are like the small + Mazagan beans, and are sown in March; the stalk is short, but full + of pods. The _allila_ produces a small, white, flattish grain. + + [Footnote 45: _El Bishna_. This is the Arabic name for Indian + corn.] + + [Footnote 46: _Allila_, a species of millet.] + + [Footnote 47: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, as before + described in the note, page 13.] + + PROVISIONS. + + Rice is their principal food, but the rich have wheaten flour from + Fas[48], and make very fine bread, which is considered a luxury. + Bread is also made from the _allila_. They roast, boil, bake, and + stew, but make no _cuscasoe_. Their meals are breakfast, dinner, + and supper. They commonly breakfast about eight, dine about three, + and sup soon after sunset. They drink only water or milk with their + meals, have no palm wine or any fermented liquor; when they wish to +26 be exhilarated after dinner, they provide a plant of an + intoxicating quality called _el hashisha_[49], of which they take a + handful before a draught of water. + + [Footnote 48: And also from Marocco.] + + [Footnote 49: _El Hashisha_. This is the African hemp plant: it + is esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous + vacuity of mind which it produces on those who smoke it: unlike + the intoxication from wine, a fascinating stupor pervades the + mind, and the dreams are agreeable. The _kief_ is the flower + and seeds of the plant: it is a strong narcotic, so that those + who use it cannot do without it. For a further description of + this plant, see Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edit. p. 131 & + 132.] + + ANIMALS. + + Goats are very large, as big as the calves in England, and very + plentiful; sheep are also very large. Cattle are small; many are + oxen. Milk of camels and goats is preferred to that of cows. Horses + are small, and are principally fed upon camels' milk; they are of + the greyhound[50] shape, and will travel three days without rest. + They have dromedaries[51] which travel from Timbuctoo[52] to + Tafilelt in the short period of five or six days. + + [Footnote 50: These horses are the desert horse, or the + _shrubat er'reeh_. See Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edition, p. + 94. to 96.] + + [Footnote 51: These are _El Heirie_, (or _Erragual_), for a + particular description of which see Jackson's Marocco, p. 91. + to 93.] + + [Footnote 52: A distance of upwards of 1200 British miles.] +27 + BIRDS. + + They have common fowls, ostriches, and a bird larger than our + blackbird[53]; also storks, which latter are birds of passage, and + arrive in the spring and disappear at the approach of winter; + swallows, &c. + + [Footnote 53: The starling.] + + FISH. + + They have many extremely good in the Nile; one of the shape and + size of our salmon[54]; the largest of these are about four feet + long. They use lines and hooks brought from Barbary, and nets, like + our casting nets, made by themselves. They strike large fish with + spears and fish-gigs. + + [Footnote 54: The _shebbel_, a species of salmon, a very + delicate fish, but so rich that it is best roasted, which the + Arabs do in a superior manner.] + + PRICES OF DIFFERENT ARTICLES. + + Sheep from ten to sixteen cowries. Cowries[55] are much valued, and + form an ornament of head-dress even for the richest women; they are + highly valued as ornaments. Goats are cheaper than sheep; the best + from eight to twelve cowries. Fowls from four to six cowries each. + Antelopes are very scarce and dear. Camels from thirty to sixty + cowries, according to their size and condition. Ostriches, of which + vast numbers are brought to market, are very cheap; the + fore-feathers[56] are often carried to Tafilelt and Marocco, the +28 inferiors are thrown away. A good slave is worth ten, fifteen, or + twenty ducats of five shillings each; at Fas, they are worth from + sixty to a hundred ducats: females are the dearest. Slaves are most + valuable about twelve years old. They have fish-oil for lamps, but + use neither wax nor tallow for candles. The fish-oil is a great + article of trade, and is brought from the neighbourhood[57] of the + sea by Genawa[58] to Housa, and thence to Timbuctoo; dearer at + Timbuctoo than at Housa, and dearer at Housa than at Genawa. + + [Footnote 55: Cowries are called _El Uda_, and are sold in + Santa Cruz and in South Barbary, at twenty Mexico dollars per + quintal.] + + [Footnote 56: Called _Ujuh_.] + + [Footnote 57: Probably from the coast of Guinea, with which + Housa carries on an extensive trade.] + + [Footnote 58: _i.e._ Guinea; Genawa being the Arabic name for + the coast of Guinea.] + + DRESS. + + The sultan wears a white turban of very fine muslin, the ends of + which are embroidered with gold, and brought to the front; this +29 turban comes from Bengala.[59] He wears a loose white cotton shirt, + with sleeves long and wide, open at the breast; unlike that of the + Arabs, it reaches to the small of the leg; over this a _caftan_[60] + of red woollen cloth, of the same length; red is generally + esteemed. The shirt (_kumja_) is made at Timbuctoo, but the caftan + comes from Fas, ready made; over the caftan is worn a short cotton + waistcoat, striped white, red, and blue; this comes from Bengala, + and is called _juliba_.[61] The sleeves of the caftan are as wide + as those of the shirt; the breast of it is fastened with buttons, + in the Moorish style, but larger. The _juliba_ has sleeves as wide + as the caftan. When he is seated, all the sleeves are turned up + over the shoulder[62], so that his arms are bare, and the air is + admitted to his body. + + [Footnote 59: _i.e._ Bengal.] + + [Footnote 60: A _caftan_, or coat, with wide sleeves, no + collar, but that buttons all down before.] + + [Footnote 61: It is not the cotton cloth which comes from + Bengal that is named _Juliba_, but the fashion or the cut of + it.] + + [Footnote 62: The Moorish fashion.] + + Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of silk, like a pear; + one of the distinctions of royalty. He wears, also, a close red + skull-cap, like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one over each + shoulder, such as the Moors wear round the waist; they are rather + cords than sashes, and are very large; half a pound of silk is used + in one of them. The subjects wear but one; they are either red, + yellow, or blue, made at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, a sash + round the waist, also made at Fas; of these there are two + kinds,--one of leather, with a gold buckle in front, like those of + the soldiers in Barbary; the other of silk, like those of the + Moorish merchants. He wears (as do the subjects) breeches made in + the Moorish fashion, of cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of + woollen in winter, brought ready made from Fas. His shoes are + distinguished by a piece of red leather, in front of the leg, about + three inches wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and gold. +30 + When he sits in his apartment, he wears a dagger with a gold hilt, + which hangs on his right side: when he goes out, his attendants + carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance. + + His subjects dress in the same manner, excepting the distinctions + of royalty; viz. the pear, the sashes on the shoulders, and the + embroidered leather on the shoes. + + The sultana wears a caftan, open in front from top to bottom, under + this a slip of cotton like the kings, an Indian shawl over the + shoulders, which ties behind, and a silk handkerchief about her + head. Other women dress in the same manner. They wear no drawers. + The poorest women are always clothed. They never show their bosom. + The men and women wear ear-rings. The general expense of a woman's + dress is from two ducats to thirty.[63] Their shoes are red, and + are brought from Marocco.[64] Their arms and ankles are adorned + with bracelets. The poor have them of brass; the rich, of gold. The + rich ornament their heads with cowries. The poor have but one + bracelet on the leg, and one on the arm; the rich, two. They also + wear gold rings upon their fingers. They have no pearls or precious + stones. The women do not wear veils. + + [Footnote 63: Equal to from two to thirty Mexico dollars.] + + [Footnote 64: They are manufactured at Marocco.] +31 + DIVERSIONS. + + The king has 500 or 600 horses; his stables are in the inclosure; + the saddles have a peak before, but none behind. He frequently + hunts the antelope, wild ass, ostrich, and an animal, which, from + Shabeeny's description, appears to be the wild cow[65] of Africa. + The wild ass is very fleet, and when closely pursued kicks back the + earth and sand in the eyes of his pursuers. They have the finest + greyhounds in the world, with which they hunt only the + antelope[66]; for the dogs are not able to overtake the ostrich. + Shabeeny has often hunted with the king; any person may accompany + him. Sometimes he does not return for three or four days: he sets + out always after sunrise. Whatever is killed in the chace is + divided among the strangers and other company present; but those + animals which are taken alive are sent to the king's palace. He + goes to hunt towards the desert, and does not begin till distant + ten miles from the town. The antelopes are found in herds of from + thirty to sixty. He never saw an antelope, wild ass, or ostrich + alone, but generally in large droves. The ostriches, like the + storks, place centinels upon the watch: thirty yards are reckoned a + distance for a secure shot with the bow. The king always shoots on +32 horseback, as do many of his courtiers, sometimes with muskets, but + oftener with bows. The king takes a great many tents with him. + There are no lions, tigers, or wild boars near Timbuctoo. They play + at chess and draughts, and are very expert at those games: they + have no cards; but they have tumblers, jugglers, and + ventriloquists, whose voice appears to come from under the armpits. + He was much pleased with their music, of which they have + twenty-four different sorts. They have dances of different kinds, + some of which are very indecent. + + [Footnote 65: The _Aoudad_; for a particular description of + which, see Jackson's Marocco, Chapter V., Zoology, p. 84.] + + [Footnote 66: The Gazel, or Antelope, outruns at first the + greyhound; but after running about an hour the greyhound gains + on him.] + + TIME. + + They measure time[67] by days, weeks, lunar months, and lunar + years; yet few can ascertain their age. + + [Footnote 67: The hour is an indefinite term, and assimilates to + our expression of a good while; it is from half an hour by the dial + to six hours, and the difference is expressed by the word _wahad + saa kabeer_, a long hour; and _wahad saa sereer_, a little hour; + also by the elongation of the last syllable of the last word.] + + RELIGION. + + They have no temples, churches, or mosques, no regular worship or + sabbath; but once in three months they have a great festival, which + lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and is spent in eating + and drinking. He does not know the cause; but thinks it, perhaps, a + commemoration of the king's birth-day; no work is done. They +33 believe in a Supreme Being and another state of existence, and have + saints and men whom they revere as holy. Some of them are + sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary and Turkey; and though + physicians are numerous, they expect more effectual aid in sickness + from the prayers of the saints, especially in the rheumatism. Music + is employed to excite ecstasy in the saint, who, when in a state of + inspiration, tells (on the authority of some departed saint, + generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) what animal must be sacrificed + for the recovery of the patient: a white cock, a red cock, a hen, + an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal is then killed in + the presence of the sick, and dressed; the blood, feathers, and + bones are preserved in a shell and carried to some retired spot, + where they are covered and marked as a sacrifice. No salt or + seasoning is used in the meat, but incense is used previous to its + preparation. The sick man eats as much as he can of the meat, and + all present partake; the rice, or what else is dressed with it, + must be the produce of charitable contributions from others, not of + the house or family; and every contributor prays for the patient. + + DISEASES. + + The winds of the desert produce complaints in the stomach, cured by +34 medicine. They have professed surgeons and physicians. The bite of + a snake is cured by sucking the wound. They have the jlob[68] + violently, for which sulphur from Terodant in Suse is taken + internally and externally. This disorder is sometimes fatal. They + are afflicted also with fevers and agues. Bleeding is often + successful; the physicians prescribe also purgatives and emetics. + Ruptures are frequent and dangerous; seldom cured, and often fatal. + They tap for the dropsy. He never heard of the venereal disease + there. Head-aches and consumptions also prevail. The physicians[69] + collect herbs and use them in medicine. + + [Footnote 68: Probably the itch, called El Hack in Barbary.] + + [Footnote 69: The physicians have a very superior and general + knowledge of the virtues of herbs and plants.] + + MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. + + The nails and palms of the hands are stained red with henna[70], + cultivated there: the Arabs tatoo their hands and arms, but not the + people of Timbuctoo. These people are real negroes; they have a + slight mark on the face, sloping from the eye; the Foulans have a + horizontal mark; the Bambarrahees a wide gash from the forehead to + the chin. Tombs are raised over the dead; they are buried in a + winding-sheet and a coffin: the relations mourn over their graves, + and pronounce a panegyric on the dead. The men and women mix in +35 society, and visit together with the same freedom as in Europe. + They sleep on mattresses, with cotton sheets and a counterpane; the + married, in separate beds in the same room. They frequently bathe + the whole body, their smell would otherwise be offensive; they use + towels brought from India. At dinner they spread their mats and sit + as in Barbary. They smoke a great deal, but tobacco is dear; it is + the best article of trade. Poisoning is common; they get the poison + from the fangs of snakes, but, he says, most commonly from a part + of the body near the tail, by a kind of distillation. Physic, taken + immediately after the poison, may cure, but not always; if deferred + two or three days, the man must die: the poison is slow, wastes the + flesh, and produces a sallow, morbid appearance. It causes great + pain in the stomach, destroys the appetite, produces a consumption, + and kills in a longer or shorter time, according to the strength of + constitution. Some who have taken remedies, soon after the poison, + live 8 or 10 years; otherwise the poison kills in 4 or 5 days. + Physicians prescribe an emetic, the composition of which he does + not know. + + [Footnote 70: A decoction of the herb henna produces a deep + orange die. It is used generally by the females on their hands + and feet: it allays the violence of perspiration in the part to + which it is applied, and imparts a coolness.] + + NEIGHBOURING NATIONS. + + There are no Arabs between Timbuctoo and the Nile; they live on the +36 other side[71], and would not with impunity invade the lands of + these people, who are very populous, and could easily destroy any + army that should attempt to molest them. The lands are chiefly + private property. The Foulans are very beautiful. The Bambarrahs + have thick lips and wide nostrils. The king of Foulan is much + respected at Timbuctoo; his subjects are Muhamedans, but not + circumcised.[72] They cannot be made slaves at Timbuctoo; but the + Arabs steal their girls and sell them; not for slavery, but for + marriage. + + Girls are marriageable very young; sometimes they have children at + ten years old. + + [Footnote 71: North of the town.] + + [Footnote 72: All true Muhamedans are circumcised, so that they + must partake of Paganism if uncircumcised.] + +37 + + JOURNEY + FROM + TIMBUCTOO TO HOUSA. + + + + + Shabeeny, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Housa: and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached the + Nile in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, cultivated + country, abounding in trees, some of which are a kind of oak, + bearing a large acorn[73], much finer than those of Barbary, which + are sent as presents to Spain. Travelling is perfectly safe. They + embarked on the Nile in a large boat with one mast, a sail, and + oars; the current was not rapid: having a favourable wind, on his + return, he came back in as short a time as he went. The water was +38 very red and sweet.[74] The place where they embarked is called + Mushgreelia; here is a ferry, and opposite is a village. As the + current is slow, and they moored every night, they were eight or + ten days sailing down the stream to Housa. They had ten or twelve + men on board, and when it was calm, or the wind contrary, they + rowed; they steered with an oar, the boat having no rudder. He saw + a great many boats passing up and down the river; _there are more + boats_[75] _on this river between Mushgreelia and Housa than + between Rosetta and Cairo on the Nile of Egypt_. A great many + villages are on the banks. There are boats of the same form as + those of Tetuan and Tangiers, but much larger, built of planks, and + have ribs like those of Barbary; instead of pitch or tar, they are + caulked with a sort of red clay, or bole. The sail is of canvas of + flax (not cotton) brought from Barbary, originally from Holland; it + is square. They row like the Moors, going down the stream. + + [Footnote 73: Called El Belute. These acorns are much prized by + the Muhamedans, and are considered a very wholesome fruit.] + + [Footnote 74: The word hellue, in Arabic, which signifies + literally, sweet, here implies that the water was pure and + good.] + + [Footnote 75: See Jackson's Marocco, page 314, 2d or 3d + edition.] + + There is a road by land from Timbuctoo to Housa, but on account of + the expense it is not used by merchants: Shabeeny believes it is + about 5 days' journey. If you go this way, you must cross the river + before you reach Housa. They landed at the port of Housa, distant a + day and a half from the town; their merchandise was carried from + this port on horses, asses, and horned cattle; the blacks dislike + camels; they say, "_These are the beasts that carry us into + slavery_." +39 + The country was rich and well cultivated; they have a plant bearing + a pod called mellochia, from which they make a thick vegetable + jelly.[76] There is no artificial road from Timbuctoo to the Nile; + near the river the soil is miry. Shabeeny travelled from Timbuctoo + to Housa in the hot weather when the Nile was nearly full; it + seldom falls much below the level of its banks; he travelled on + horseback from Timbuctoo to the river, and slept two nights upon + the road in the huts of the natives. One of the principal men in + the village leaves his hut to the travellers and gives them a + supper; in the mean time he goes to the hut of some friend, and in + the morning receives a small present for his hospitality.[77] + + [Footnote 76: The pod of the mellochia, which grows near Sallee + and Rabat, is of an elongated conical form, about two inches + long.] + + [Footnote 77: This is a common custom in West and South + Barbary; they always clear a tent for the travellers.] + + THE RIVER NEEL OR NILE. + + The Neel El Kebeer[78], (that is, the Great Nile,) like the Neel +40 Masser or Nile of Egypt, is fullest in the month of August, when it + overflows in some places where the banks are low; the water which + overflows is seldom above midleg; the banks are covered with reeds, + with which they make mats. Camels, sheep, goats, and horses, feed + upon the banks, but during the inundation are removed to the + uplands. The walls of the huts both within and without are cased + with wood to the height of about three feet, to preserve them from + the water; the wells have the best water after the swelling of the + river. The flood continues about ten days; the abundance of rice + depends on the quantity of land flooded. He always understood that + the Nile empties itself in the sea, the salt sea or the great + ocean. There is a village at the port of Housa where he landed, the + river here is much wider than where he embarked, and still wider at + Jinnie. He saw no river enter the Nile in the course of his voyage. + It much resembles the Nile of Egypt, gardens and lands are + irrigated from it. Its breadth is various; in some places he thinks + it narrower than the Thames at London, in others much wider; at the + landing place they slept in the hut of a native, and next morning + at sunrise set off for Housa, where they arrived in twelve hours + through a fine plain without hills; the country is much more + populous than between Timbuctoo and the Nile. Ferry boats are to be + had at several villages. + + [Footnote 78: Properly Enneel. El is the article; but when it + precedes a word beginning with a letter called a labial, it + takes the sound of that letter. This error is committed + throughout a book, lately published, entitled Specimens of + Arabic Poetry, by J.D. Carlyle, Professor of Arabic in the + University of Cambridge, 2d edition p. 53, Abdalsalam, instead + of Abdassalum; p. 59, Ebn Alrumi, instead of Ebn Arrumi; and p. + 65, Alnarhurwany, for Annarhurwany, &c. &c.] +41 + HOUSA. + + They did not see the town till they came within an hour from it, or + an hour and a half; it stands in a plain. Housa is south-east[79] + of Timbuctoo, a much larger city and nearly as large as London. He + lived there two years, but never saw the whole of it. It has no + walls; the houses are like those of Timbuctoo, and form irregular + lanes or streets like those of Fas or Marocco, wide enough for + camels to pass with their loads. The palace is much larger than + that of Timbuctoo; it is seven or eight miles in circumference and + surrounded by a wall; he remembers but four gates, but there may be + more; he thinks the number of guards at each gate is about 50; it + is in that part of the town most distant from the Nile. The houses + are dark coloured and flat roofed. He thinks Cairo is about + one-third larger than Housa; the streets are much wider than those + of Timbuctoo; the houses are covered with a kind of clay of + different colours but never white. They have no chalk or lime in + the country. + + [Footnote 79: Rather south-east by east.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + If the king has children, the eldest, if a man of sense and good + character, succeeds; otherwise, one of the others is elected. The +42 grandees of the court are the electors. If the eldest son be not + approved, they are not bound to elect him; he has, however, the + preference, and after him the other sons; but the choice of the + council must be unanimous, and if no person of the royal line be + the object of their choice, they may elect one of their own body. + The members of the council are appointed by the king; he chooses + them for their wisdom and integrity, without being limited to rank: + the person appointed cannot refuse obedience to the royal mandate. + The council consists of many hundreds. The governor who controls + the police lives in the centre of the town. + + THE ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE + + Is very similar to that of Timbuctoo, except that the king is + perfectly despotic; and though he consults his council, he decides + as he thinks proper. The governor administers justice in small + affairs; but, in important cases, he refers the parties to the king + and council, of which he is himself a member. No torture, is ever + inflicted. The governor employs a great number of officers of + police at a distance from the town. If robberies are committed, the + person robbed must apply to the chief of the district, who must + find or take into custody the offender, or becomes himself liable + to make compensation for the injury sustained.[80] + + [Footnote 80: This is also the law in West Barbary. When a + robbery is committed, the district where it has been committed + is made liable for double the amount; the half goes to the + person robbed, and the other half to the treasury. The good + effects of this law is admirable, insomuch that it has almost + annihilated robbery: but when one has actually been committed, + the energy and exertion of every individual is directed to + discover the depredator, and they seldom fail to discover him. + The fear of the penalty also makes them very cautious who they + admit among them; and very inquisitive respecting the character + and vocation of all, strangers in particular, who sojourn in + their country!!] +43 + LANDED PROPERTY. + + They have a class of men whose peculiar business it is to adjust + all disputes concerning land; the office is hereditary; _the + offender_ pays the compensation, and also the fees of these + officers; _the innocent_ pays nothing. When lands are bought, these + officers measure them. There is a plant resembling a large onion, + which serves as a land-mark; if these are removed, (which cannot be + easily done without discovery) reference is had to the records of + the sale, of which every owner is in possession; they express the + sum received; the quantity, situation, and limits of the land. + These are given by the seller, and are written in the language and + character of the country, very different from the Arabic. The same + letters are used at Timbuctoo. They write from right to left. The + character[81] was perfectly unintelligible to Shabeeny. Children, +44 whose father is dead, succeed to the same portion of their + grandfather's property as their father would, had _he_ out outlived + _his_ father, though there are other issue of the grandfather. The + rules of succession are the same as at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 81: Possibly the ancient Carthaginian character.] + + Persons of great landed property, of which there are many, employ + agents or stewards; they let the lands, and the rents are paid + sometimes in kind, and sometimes in gold-dust and cowries. Houses + are let by the month. He paid four Mexico dollars per month; but a + native would not have paid above two for the same house. A man who + has five Mexico dollars[82] a month, is esteemed in easy + circumstances; those, however, who have 30 or 40 per month, are + common. + + [Footnote 82: Ten dollars worth of rice is sufficient for the + daily food of a man a twelve-month.] + + REVENUES. + + The king has 2 per cent. on the produce of the land. The revenues + arise from the same sources as at Timbuctoo, but are much larger. + Foreign merchants pay nothing, as the Housaeens think they ought to + be encouraged. The revenue is supposed to be immense. + + ARMY. + + He cannot precisely tell the number of troops, but believes the + king can raise 70,000 to 80,000 horse, and 100,000 foot. The horses +45 are poor and small, except a few kept for the king's own use. He + has no well-bred mares. Their arms are the same as at Timbuctoo; + the muskets, which are matchlocks, are made in the country. They + are very dexterous in throwing the lance. Gunpowder is also + manufactured there; the brimstone is brought from Fas; the charcoal + they make; and he believes they prepare the nitre.[83] Their arrows + are feathered and barbed; the bows are all cross-bows, with + triggers; the arrows, 20 to 40 in a quiver, are made of hides, and + hang on the left side. The king never goes to war in person. The + soldiers have a peculiar dress; their heads are bare; but the + officers have a kind of turban; the soldiers have a shirt of coarse + white cotton, and yellow slippers; those of the officers are red. + Some have turbans adorned with gold. They carry their powder in a + leather purse; the match, made of cotton, is wound round the gun; + they have flint and steel in a pouch, and also spare matches. + + [Footnote 83: The saltpetre and brimstone are probably derived + from Terodant in Suse, where both abound.] + + THE TRADE + + Is similar to that of Timbuctoo; in both places foreign merchants + always employ agents, or brokers, to trade to advantage; a man + should reside sometime before he begins. Ivory is sold by the + tooth; he bought one, weighing 200 lb. for five ducats (1_L. 5s._); + he sold it in Marocco for 25 ducats, per 100 lb.; it is now[84] + worth 60. + + [Footnote 84: A.D. 1795.] +46 + The king cannot make any of his subjects slaves. They get their + cotton from Bengala.[85] They have no salt, it comes from a great + distance, and is very dear. Goods find a much better market at + Housa than at Timbuctoo. There are merchants at Housa from Timboo, + Bornoo, Moshu, and India; the travelling merchants do not regard + distance. From Timboo and other great towns he has heard, and from + his own knowledge can venture to assert, that they bring East India + goods. Gold-dust, ivory, and slaves are the principal returns from + Housa. The people of Housa have slaves from Bornoo, Bambarra, + Jinnie, Beni Killeb[86] (sons of dogs), and Beni Aree (sons of the + naked); they are, generally, prisoners of war, though many are + stolen when young, by people who make a trade of this practice. The + laws are very severe against this crime; it requires, therefore, + great cunning and duplicity; no men of any property are ever guilty + of it. The slave stealers take the children by night out of the + town, and sell them to some peasant, who sells them to a third, and + so from hand to hand, till they are carried out of the country; if + this practice did not exist, there would be few slaves for the + Barbary market. Beyond the age of fourteen or fifteen, a slave is +47 hardly saleable in Barbary. Few merchants bring to Housa above two + or three slaves at a time; but there are great numbers of merchants + continually bringing them. His own slave was a native of Bambarra, + and was brought very young to Timbuctoo. Slaves are generally + stupid; but his, on the contrary, was very sensible; he understood + several languages, particularly Arabic; he bought him as an + interpreter; he would not have sold publicly for above twenty + ducats; but he gave 50 for him; his master parting with him very + reluctantly. He bought two female slaves at Housa, at 15 ducats + each.[87] The value of slaves has since then doubled in Barbary; he + does not know the present[88] price at Timbuctoo. At Timbuctoo not + ten slaves in the hundred bought there, are females; when bought, + the merchant shuts them up in a private room, but not in chains, + and places a centinel at the door: when the confidence of any of + them is supposed to be gained, they are employed as centinels. + Housa having a great trade, is much frequented by people from + Bambarra, Foulan, Jinnie, and the interior countries. + + Manufactures and husbandry are similar to those at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 85: Bengal, or the East Indies.] + + [Footnote 86: Properly Ben Ekkilleb, or Hel Ekkileb, i.e. the + canine-race. These are described to be swift of foot and low of + stature, having a language peculiar to themselves.] + + [Footnote 87: About the 1790th year of the Christian era.] + + [Footnote 88: In the year 1795.] + + CLIMATE. + + The hot winds blow from the east; the summer is hotter than in +48 Marocco, and hotter at Timbuctoo than at Housa. The cold winds are + from the west: the morning fog is great. He never saw it rain at + Housa, in the course of two years; he says it never rains there. + Scarcity is never known. A considerable part of their provisions is + brought from the banks of the Nile; the river, when overflowing, + never reaches above half way from its common channel towards Housa. + They have excellent wells in their houses, but no river near the + town. + + ZOOLOGY. + + He saw no camels at Housa, but heard, they use them to fetch gold, + and cover their legs with leather, to guard them from snakes. They + have dogs and cats, but no scorpions or snakes in their houses. + Lice, bugs, and fleas abound. He saw no wild animals or fowl in the + neighbourhood of Housa. + + DISEASES. + + Physicians agree with the patient for his cure. No cure no pay. The + prevailing diseases are colds and coughs. + + RELIGION. + + The same as at Timbuctoo; the poorer classes, as in most countries, + have many superstitious notions of spirits, good and bad, and are + alarmed by dreams, particularly, the slaves, some of whom cannot + retain their urine in the night, as he thinks, from fear of +49 spirits, they take them often upon trial when they buy them, and if + they have this defect, a considerable deduction is made in the + price. A man possessed by a good spirit is supposed to be safe + amidst 10,000 shot. A man guilty of a crime, who in the opinion of + the judge is possessed by an evil spirit, is not punished! He never + heard of a rich man being possessed. + + PERSONS. + + They are of various sizes, but the tallest man he ever saw was at + Housa. The city being very large, he seldom had an opportunity of + seeing the king, as at Timbuctoo. He saw him but twice in two + years, and only in the courts of justice; he was remarkable for the + width of his nostrils, the redness of his eyes, the smoothness of + his skin, and the fine tint of his perfectly black complexion. + + DRESS. + + Like that of Timbuctoo, their turbans are of the finest muslin. The + sleeves of the soldiers are small, those of the merchants wide. The + former have short breeches, the latter long. The officers dress + like the merchants, each according to his circumstances. The caftan + is of silk, in summer, brought from India; instead of the silk + cords worn by the king of Timbuctoo, the king of Housa wears two + silk sashes, three fingers broad, one on each shoulder; they are +50 richly adorned with gold; in one hangs his dagger, and when he + rides out, his sword in the other; he wears not the silk pear in + his turban, as does the king of Timbuctoo. The front of his turban + is embroidered with gold. + + BUILDINGS. + + The houses are like those at Timbuctoo, but many much larger. They + have no wind or water-mills, but they have stone mills, turned by + horses. + + MANNERS. + + They never bow. An inferior kisses the hand of a superior; to an + equal he nods the head, gives him his hand and asks him how he + does. The women do the same. + + The general body are honest and benevolent, the lower class is + addicted to thieving. They are very careful of children, to prevent + their being stolen. Snakes do not frequent cultivated lands, so + that animals are not there in danger from them. The people of + Timbuctoo and Housa resemble each other in their persons and in + their manners. They castrate bulls, sheep, and goats, but never + horses. Supper is the principal meal. They do not use vessels of + brass or copper in cookery; they are all of earthenware. At sunset + the watchmen are stationed in all parts of the town, and take into + custody all suspected or unknown persons. They have lamps made of + wood and paper; the latter comes from Fas. Women of respectability +51 are attended by a slave when they walk out or visit, which they do + with the same freedom as in Europe. The women ride either horses or + asses, they have no mules; the men commonly prefer walking, they + are strong and seldom sensible of fatigue, which he attributes to + their having a rib more than white men. Some bake their own bread, + others buy it, as in England. They make leavened bread of + allila[89] and bishna; the cattle-market is within the city, in a + square, appropriated to this purpose. There are a great many rich + men, some by inheritance, others by trade. Every morning the doors + of the rich are crowded with poor, the master sends them food, + rice, milk, &c. They have names for every day. They make their own + pipes for smoking, the tubes are of wood. They have songs, some + with chorus, and some sung by two persons in alternate stanzas. + They have the same feasts once a quarter as at Timbuctoo. The king + has but one wife, but many concubines. The favourite slaves of the + queen of Housa are considered as superior to the queen of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 89: Millet and Indian corn.] + + GOLD. + + The ground where it is found is about sixteen miles from Housa. + They go in the night with camels whose legs and feet are covered to + protect them against snakes, they take a bag of sand, and mark with +52 it the places that glitter with gold; in the morning they collect + where marked, and carry it to refiners, who, for a small sum, + separate the gold. There are no mountains or rivers near the spot, + it is a plain without sand, of a dark brown earth. Any person may + go to seek gold; they sell it to the merchants, who pay a small + duty to the king. The produce is uncertain; he has heard that a + bushel of earth has produced the value of twelve ducats, three + pounds sterling, of pure gold. They set out from Housa about two + o'clock in the afternoon, arrive about sun-set, and return the next + day seeking for gold during the whole night. + + LIMITS OF THE EMPIRE + + Beyond Timboo, on the north side of the Nile, are very extensive. + Afnoo is subject to the king of Housa, no slaves can be made from + thence. Darfneel is near Afnoo; the latter is on the north side of + the river, nearer to its source, and a great way from Timbuctoo. No + Arabs are found on the banks of the Nile. He supposes the + circumference of the empire to be about twenty-five days' journey; + has heard that many other large towns are dependent upon it, but + does not remember their names. + + The neighbouring countries are Bambarra, Timboo, Mooshee, and + Jinnie; all negroes. He has heard of Bernoo[90] as a great empire. +53 + On the 31st of March, 1790, Shabeenee gave further information, in + the presence of Lord Rawdon[91], Mr. Stuart, and Mr. Wedgewood. Mr. + Wedgewood proposed the questions, and Mr. Dodsworth interpreted. + The following is some of the information, omitting what has been + noticed already. + + Between Timbuctoo and Housa, there is a very good trade. Timbuctoo + is tributary to the king of Housa. The imports into Timbuctoo[92] + are spices, corn, and woollens from Barbary, and linens from the + sea-coast. + + [Footnote 90: Ber Noh, or Bernoh, _i.e._ the country of Noah, + is said by the Africans, to be the birth-place of the patriarch + Noah.] + + [Footnote 91: Now the Marquis of Hastings.] + + [Footnote 92: For a more detailed account of the imports to + Timbuctoo, see Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c.] + + The written character is very large, perhaps half an inch long. The + empire is divided into provinces; the provinces into districts. The + king appoints the governors of both; but the son of the deceased + governor is understood to have the preference. + + They make their pottery by a wheel, but do not glaze it. The wheel + turns upon a pivot placed in a hole in the ground: at top and + bottom are two pieces of wood like a tea-table; the lower, which is + largest, is turned by the foot, and the upper forms the vessel. + When they make a large pot, they put on the top a larger piece: the + pots are dried in the sun or burnt in the fire. The iron mines are + in the desert; the iron is brought in small pieces by the Arabs, +54 who melt and purify it. They cannot cast iron. They use charcoal + fire, and form guns and swords with the hammer and anvil. The + points of their arrows are barbed with iron; the crossbows have a + groove for the arrow. No man can draw the bow by his arm alone, + they have a kind of lever; the bow part is of steel brought from + Barbary, and is manufactured at Timbuctoo. They do not make steel + themselves. + + They inoculate for the small-pox; the pus is put into a dried + raisin and eaten. "_Rooka Dindooka_" is a kind of oath, and means, + by God. They believe only one God. After dinner they use the Arabic + expression, El Hamd Ulillah; praise to be to God.[93] + + They believe the immortality of the soul, and that both men and + women go to paradise; that there is no future punishment; the + wicked are punished in this world. Happiness, after death, consists + in being in the presence of God. They are not circumcised. A + divorce may take place while a woman is pregnant, but she cannot + marry again till delivered. As soon as a woman is divorced, + midwives, women brought up to that profession, examine her to see + whether she is pregnant. + + [Footnote 93: This is the Arabic, or Muhamedan grace after + meat; the grace before meat is equally sententious, viz. + Bismillah, i.e. in the name of God.] + +[Illustration: map of West Barbary] + +55 + + LETTERS + CONTAINING + AN ACCOUNT OF JOURNIES + THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF + WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AT DIFFERENT PERIODS, + PERFORMED PERSONALLY BY J.G.J. + + + + + LETTER I. + + _On the opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz in Suse, and + of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to the Dutch._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + (Late British Consul for Senegambia) Eversholt, near Woburn, + Bedfordshire. + + Mogodor, 28th February, 1792. + + The emperor has consented to the proposition of the Dutch + government, to open the port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the + province of Suse, to the commerce of that nation; and I have + finally resolved to establish a house there, so soon as the sultan + Yezzid's order respecting that port shall reach the hands of Alkaid + Aumer ben Daudy, the governor of this port. There are various + political intrigues in agitation, to deter me from going personally +56 to establish the commerce of this most desirable and long-neglected + port of Santa Cruz. The governor anticipates a considerable + diminution in the treasury of Mogodor; and the merchants of this + place anticipate a great diminution of the various articles of + produce of this fine country, seeing that the principal articles of + exportation from the empire of Marocco are produced in the province + of Suse, and in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz. + + The stream of commerce will, therefore, necessarily be converted + from Mogodor to Santa Cruz. The merchants of Fas also, who have + their establishments and connections at Timbuctoo, and in other + parts of Sudan, will resort to Santa Cruz in preference to Mogodor, + for all European articles calculated for the markets of Sudan, the + former port being in the neighbourhood of the desert, or Sahara, + and at a convenient distance from Akka in Lower Suse, the general + rendezvous of the akkaba, (or accumulated caravans,) destined for + the interior regions of Africa or Sudan. This akkaba starts + annually for Timbuctoo, consisting of 2000 or 3000 camels, loaded + with merchandise from Fas, Tetuan, Sallee, Mogodor, Marocco, + Tafilelt, Draha, and Terodant. The port of Santa Cruz is hence +57 aptly denominated _Beb Sudan_, i.e. the gate or entrance of Sudan. + The port of Santa Cruz was formerly farmed by the emperor[94] Muley + Ishmael, to some European power, for 50,000 dollars a-year, as I + have been informed; others say it was purchased of him by his own + Jewish subjects, for the purposes of trade. However this may have + been, no advantage was ever taken of the favourable opportunity + then offered, of opening and securing to Europe an extensive and + lucrative trade with the various countries of Sudan or Nigritia. + + I can account for this omission only by supposing that the interior + of Africa was then less known than even it now is; and that the + merchants then established at Santa Cruz, had there sufficient + advantages in commerce to engage their attention, without examining + into this immense undiscovered mine of wealth! + + [Footnote 94: Great-grandfather of Muley Soliman, the present + emperor, who is denominated Soliman ben Muhamed ben Abdallah + ben Ismael.] +58 + + LETTER II. + + _The Author's arrival at Agadeer or Santa Cruz.--He opens the Port + to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception on landing + there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading Custom + that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on + Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a + Sanctuary at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been + considered Holy Ground, and none but Muhamedans had ever before + been permitted to enter the Gates on Horseback._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 7th March, 1792. + + _The emperor's[95] letter ordering the port of Santa Cruz to be + opened to the Dutch_, having reached Mogodor, and having received + my instructions from Webster Blount, Esq. Dutch consul-general to + this empire, to act as agent for him at that port, until my + appointment be ratified and confirmed by the States General, of + which he informs me there is no doubt, I proceeded hither in the + Snell Zee Post, Dirk Morris, master; and after being becalmed off + (Affernie) Cape de Geer, I arrived here the third morning after my + departure from Mogodor. I sent my horses by land; and on our +59 approach to the shore, I discovered them approaching the mountain + on which Santa Cruz stands. Soon after we came to anchor in the + road, the boats came off, and the battery, which is situated about + half-way up the mountain on the western declivity, saluted me with + 8 guns, (the Muhamedans always saluting with an even number.) This + compliment being unexpected, we were about half an hour preparing + to return it, when we saluted the battery with 9 guns. The captain + of the port received me with great courtesy, and was ordered by the + bashaw El Hayanie, governor of Santa Cruz, to pay the most + unqualified attention to my wishes. I landed amidst an immense + concourse of people, assembled on the beach to witness the + re-establishment of their port, most of whom were without shoes, + and very ill clad. + + [Footnote 95: See specimens of Arabic epistolary + correspondence, Appendix, Letter 9th.] + + The most hearty exclamations of joy and approbation were manifested + by the people when I landed; a merchant was come to establish, once + more, that commerce by which the fathers of the present generation + had prospered; and their sons appeared to know full well the + advantages that again awaited their industry, which for 30 years + had not been exercised. I mounted my horse on the beach, amidst the + general acclamations of the people, and ascended the mountain, on + the summit of which is the town. On my arrival at the gate, I was + courteously received by the bashaw's sons; who, however, informed +60 me that the entrance of Santa Cruz was ever considered holy ground, + and that Christians, during its former establishment, always + descended and entered the town on foot, intimating at the same time + that it was expected I should do the same. I had been before + cautioned by Mr. Gwyn, the British consul at Mogodor, not to + expostulate at this request, as it would certainly be required of + me to conform to ancient usages. But I knew too well the + disposition of the people, and the great desire that pervaded all + ranks to have the port established; I therefore turned my horse, + and told the bashaw's sons, that I was come, with the blessing of + God, to bring prosperity to the land, to make the poor rich, and to + improve the condition and multiply the conveniences of the opulent; + that I came to establish commerce for _their_ advantage, not for + mine; that it was indifferent to me whether I returned to Mogodor + or remained with them. The sons of the bashaw became alarmed, and + entreated me, with clasped hands, to wait till they should report + to the bashaw my words and observations. I consented, and soon + after they returned with their father's earnest request that I + should enter a-horseback: old customs, said the venerable old + bashaw when, immediately afterwards, I met him in the street; old + customs are abolished, enter and go out of this town a-horseback or + a-foot, we desire the prosperity of this port, and that its + commerce may flourish; _All the people of Suse hail you as their +61 deliverer, God has sent you to us to turn the desert into_ (jinen + afia) _a fruitful garden; come, and be welcome, and God be with + you._ + + I was conducted to the best house in the town, a house which + belonged to our predecessor, Mr. Grover; and I was informed, that + if any demur had been made by the bashaw respecting my entrance + through the sanctuary or holy ground, it might have caused an + immediate insurrection; so anxious and impatient were all ranks of + people for the new establishment of this eligible port of Suse. + + The privilege thus established, of riding in and out of the town, I + continued; and I procured it immediately afterwards for all + Christians! even masters of ships and common sailors. +62 + + LETTER III. + + _The Author makes a Commercial Road down the Mountain, to + facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and Liberality of the + Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description of the + Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength + of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Aguzem, and the Portuguese Spring and + Tank there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a + Fort.--Eligibility of the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial + Depot to Supply the whole of the Interior of North Africa with East + India and European Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to + Commerce and Industry, if Opportunity offered._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 20th March, 1792. + + The road up the mountain of Santa Cruz was so dangerous and + impassable, that I undertook to repair it; accordingly, I agreed + with a Shilluh to make it safe and convenient for transporting + goods for shipment; and such was the eager desire of the people for + the establishment of the port, that hundreds brought stones and + assisted gratuitously in the construction of this road; so that + what would have cost in England thousands of pounds, was here + completed for a few hundred dollars. + + The natives of this long-neglected territory were too acute not to + perceive the field of wealth that was thus opened to their +63 industry; they were convinced, from the traditions of their + fathers, of the incalculable benefits that would arise from a + commercial reciprocity; and they were determined to cultivate the + opportunity that was now offered to put them in possession of those + commercial advantages which their fathers had enjoyed before: the + benefits of which they had often related to their children, when + they talked of the prosperity and riches of the country during the + reign of Muley Ismael, when this port was before open to foreign + commerce. Agreeably to these well-founded anticipations, the genial + influence of commerce began, soon after my arrival, to manifest + itself throughout all ranks and denominations of men; _the whole + population visibly improved in their apparel and appearance; new + garments were now becoming common, and were every where substituted + for the rags and wretchedness before witnessed on landing here._ + + About four miles east of Santa Cruz, in a very romantic valley + surrounded by mountains, are found the ruins of a Portuguese tower. + _Tildie_, which is the name of this place, abounds in plantations + of the most delicious figs, grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour, citrons, oranges, water-melons, walnuts, + apricots in great abundance, and peaches, &c. &c. + + I invited a party of Arabs to accompany me to this delightful + retreat, where we dined: the Arabs killed two sheep; one they + roasted whole on a wooden spit, made on the spot; the other they +64 baked whole in an oven made for the purpose, in the following + manner: A large hole was dug in the ground; the inside was + plaistered with clay; after which they put fire in the hole till + the sides were dry; they then put the sheep in, and the top was + covered by clay in the form of an arch, fashioned and constructed + by the hand only; they afterwards made a large trough round this + temporary oven, and filled it with wood, to which they set fire. + The sheep was about three hours preparing in this manner, and it + was of exquisite flavour; the roasted mutton also was equally well + flavoured. No vegetables were served with this repast; for I had + desired that the fare should be precisely according to their own + custom; I therefore declined interfering with the arrangement of + the food. This mode of cooking is in high estimation with + travellers. These people never eat vegetables with their meat. When + they see Europeans eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of + vegetables, they express their surprise, observing that the taste + of the vegetables destroys the taste of the meat; and _vice versa_, + that the taste of the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables! + + The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit of a branch of the + Atlas, by the Portuguese, is enclosed by a strong wall, fortified + with bastions mounting cannon; it is about a mile in circumference. + Half way down the mountain, on the western declivity, opposite the + sea, stands a battery, which defends the town, towards the north, +65 south, and west, at the foot of the mountain. Westward, on the + shore of the sea, stands a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the + natives of this country,) Agurem. There is a copious spring of + excellent water at Agurem, built and ornamented by the Portuguese, + when they had possession of this country, and called by them + _Fonte_, which name the town still retains, and is so called by + Europeans. The royal arms of Portugal are seen, carved in stone, + over the tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water from here, + having none but rain-water in the town, which is collected in the + rainy season, and preserved in subterraneous apartments, called + mitferes[96], one of which is attached to every respectable house, + and contains sufficient for the consumption of the family during + the year. The natural position of Santa Cruz is extremely strong, + perhaps not less so than Gibraltar, though not on a peninsula; and + it might, in the hands of an European power, be made impregnable + with very little expense; it might also be made a very convenient + and most advantageous depot for the establishment of an extensive +66 commerce with the whole of the interior of North Africa. An attempt + of this kind was made about forty or fifty years since, by the + Danes, who anchored with several ships, and landed a mile south of + Agurem; and with stones, all ready cut, and numbered, erected on an + eminence[97], by the dawn of the following day, a battery of twelve + guns. But by a stratagem of the bashaw El Hayanie, who at that time + was bashaw of Suse, they were rendered unable to retain possession + of their fort; their plans were accordingly disconcerted, and the + adventurers retreated, and returned to their ships. + + [Footnote 96: The mitfere under my house at Santa Cruz, + contained, when full, four hundred pipes of water. At the + termination of the rainy season in March, it was generally + about two-thirds full, supplied from the flat roof or terras + during the rainy season. There was always much more than we + could consume, accordingly great quantities were distributed + among the poor, about the close of the season, or the autumn + previous to the next rainy season.] + + [Footnote 97: Called Agadeer Arba.] + + At the south-east extremity of the wall of Santa Cruz there is a + round battery, which protects the town from west to east; and might + be made to protect the valley to the east of the mountain. This + battery, with a little military skill, might be made to protect + every access to the town, not protected by the battery before + mentioned, which is situated about half way up the western + declivity of the mountain, and which commands or secures the fonte, + or spring, against an attack from any hostile force. +67 + + LETTER IV. + + _Command of the Commerce of Sudan._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, May 5, 1792. + + If Great Britain were to purchase the port of Santa Cruz of the + emperor, for a certain annual stipend, we should be enabled to + command the whole commerce of Sudan, at the expense of Tunis, + Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt; not at the expense of Marocco, because + an equivalent, or what the emperor would consider as such, would be + given in exchange for it; and we should then supply all those + regions with merchandise, at the first and second hand, which they + now receive through four, five, and six. We should thus be enabled + to undersell our Moorish competitors, and thus draw to our + commercial depot, all the gold-dust, gold-bars, and wrought-gold, + gum-sudan, (commonly called in England, Turkey gum-arabic), ostrich + feathers, and other articles the produce of Sudan; besides the + produce of Suse, viz. gum-barbary, sandrac, euphorbium, and + ammoniac, almonds, olive oil, wine, &c., together with the richest + fruits of every kind. These we should take in barter for our + manufactures. +68 + The road of Santa Cruz is very safe, and the best in the empire of + Marocco; it is defended from the fury of the tremendous gales that + visit this coast in December and January, and which invariably blow + from the south, by a projection of land that extends gradually from + the river Suse to cape Noon, very far westward into the ocean. + During my residence of several years at this summit of Atlas, not + one ship was wrecked or lost; there is plenty of water, and good + anchorage for ships of the line. + + A thousand European troops, directed by a vigilant and experienced + captain, might take the place by a _coup de main_; and the natives, + (after a proper explanation and assurance that trade was the object + of the capture,) would probably become allies of the captors, and + would supply in abundance all kind of provisions. They esteem the + English, and denominate them their brothers.[98] They sorely regret + the loss of trade occasioned by the emperor's restrictions, and + would gladly promote the cultivation of commerce if they had an + opportunity. They have been from time immemorial a trading + generation. + + [Footnote 98: _N'henna u l'Ingleez Khowan_, they say, "we and + the English are brothers."] +69 + + LETTER V. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + My dear sir, + + I have this moment received your favour, dated yesterday, and am + extremely sorry I had not the pleasure of seeing you before your + departure. We might have taken a farewell dinner together. You will + most highly oblige me by communicating to me all the intelligence + you can collect concerning the interior of Africa, more especially + of Timbuctoo; its trade, government, geographical situation, and + the manners and customs of its inhabitants. If you could send me + too, any of its products or manufactures, which may appear to you + curious or interesting, or may serve to shew the state of knowledge + and civilisation in the country, and the progress they may have + made in the arts, in manufactures or commerce, you will confer upon + me a singular favour; the expense of which I will readily repay, + and which I shall be happy to return whenever I can be of use to + you. If ever this region of Africa, which excites so strongly our + curiosity, should be laid open to us, you are, of all the men with + whom I am acquainted, the best qualified, and the most likely to + lead the way to this important discovery. I request you to favour +70 me with your correspondence; let me hear from you as frequently as + possible, without ceremony, and as one who wishes to be considered + as an old friend. When peace returns, I shall certainly take my + station in Senegambia[99], where we may then be fellow-labourers in + the same vineyard. There is no news yet of Park; perhaps you would + like to know how he proceeds; and as I expect to hear of him by the + return of my ship, I will inform you, if you wish it; and, in + short, will keep up a regular correspondence on my part, if you + will do the same on your's. Pray, in what ship do you go? Perhaps, + if you would give me encouragement, I might venture into a little + commercial speculation to Santa Cruz. I heartily wish you a + pleasant voyage, health, and success; and am, with great regard, + + My dear Sir, + + Very truly your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + August 12,1796. + + [Footnote 99: Mr. James Willis had the appointment of consul at + Senegambia, and was then waiting an opportunity of proceeding + thither.] +71 + + LETTER VI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + My dear sir, + + I duly received your letter from Gibraltar, and have made known to + Government the expediency of sending a person to Marocco, to oppose + the influence of the French and Spaniards; but I cannot yet say + with certainty whether the measure will be adopted or not; if it + should, you may rely upon my attention to your interest. I have + given your name to the secretary of state, and have spoken of you + with that distinction, which I think, without any flattery, your + qualifications justly deserve. + + Peace still appears to be at a great distance, since the late + negociations; yet, as nothing is so uncertain as an event of this + kind, it may come upon us, (as the last peace did) like a thief in + the night, when we least expect it. You will have, I have no doubt, + frequent opportunities of procuring information concerning + Timbuctoo, and other places in the interior of Africa. Your + knowledge of the language, customs, and commerce of that continent, + give you advantages which few possess upon this ground; and I + assure you, every kind of information will be greedily received +72 here, concerning those regions; especially that which relates to + their commerce, civilisation, customs, geography, and language. + + I request as a favour that you would write me as often as possible; + exclusive of the interest I take in all that relates to the + politics and commerce of Africa, (particularly of the interior,) to + hear of your own individual welfare, will give me the sincerest + pleasure. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + + Your's very sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. + + No. 67. Harley-street, London, 2d February, 1796. + + We have no letters from Mr. Park, since he left the river Gambia; + but we have heard from others, that he had proceeded in safety + above two-thirds of the journey. We expect soon to hear of his + return. If he succeeds, his fame and fortune will be worthy of + envy. +73 + + LETTER VII. + + _Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles the Customs' Duties of + Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abd El Melk, with the Garrison and + Merchants of Santa Crux, ordered to go to the Court at + Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the + Country and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through + which the Author passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse + from Marocco, originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of + Atlas.--Extensive Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait + Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at + Marocco, and Audience with the Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at + Marocco.--Prince Abd El Melk's magnificent Apparel, reprobated by + the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz, shut to the Commerce of + Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Mogodor.--The Prince banished + to the _Bled Shereef_ or Country of Princes, viz., Tafilelt, of the + Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the Country. + --Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity of + the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of + Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (Attar + being the Word signifying a Distillation.)--State of Oister Shells, + on the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and + Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's + Reception on the Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or + Sahara of Mogodor._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Santa Cruz, March 15, 1797. + + When the emperor Soliman proceeded from Fas with a numerous army to +74 the south, he doubled the export and import duties at Mogodor, + viz., from six to twelve per cent., payable in kind. Those of Santa + Cruz remained as before, but so soon as his imperial majesty + reached Marocco, he sent orders for the prince Abd El Melk, who is + his nephew and governor of Santa Cruz, with the garrison, together + with the merchants, to proceed to Marocco; accordingly we all + departed, the prince having first engaged a revered (fakeer) saint + to accompany the army across the Atlas mountains, the fastnesses of + which it appeared no army would be permitted to pass, without the + protection of this fakeer. We departed about noon, and passed + through the plains of the Arab province of Howara[100], a very fine + country; we pitched our tents at sunset, near a sanctuary, where we + had all kinds of provisions sent to us, in great abundance: we + continued our journey the following morning through the plains, and + about the middle of the day we reached the foot of Atlas. + + This country abounds in extensive plantations of olives, almonds, + and gum trees; some plants of the (_fashook_) gum ammoniac are here + discovered. Vines producing purple grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour: (_dergmuse_) the Euphorbium plant is discovered + in rocky parts of the mountains; and great abundance of worm-seed +75 and stick-liquorice.[101] The indigo plant (_Enneel_) is found + here; as are also pomegranates, of a large size and a most + exquisitely sweet flavour, and oranges. Ascending the Atlas, after + five hours' ride, we reached a table-land, and pitched our tents + near a sanctuary. The temperature of the air is cooler here, and + the trees are of a different character; apples, pears, cherries, + walnuts, apricots, peaches, plums, and rhododendrums, were the + produce of this region. The next morning at five o'clock, the army + struck their tents, and after ascending seven hours more, we met + with another change in vegetation. Leguminous plants began to + appear; pines of an immense size, ferns, _the belute_, a species of + oak, the acorn of which is used as food, and is preferred to the + Spanish chesnut; elms, mountain-ash, _seedra_ and _snobar_, the two + latter being a species of the juniper. After this we passed through + a fine campaign country of four hours' ride: we were informed that + this country was very populous; but our fakeer and guide avoided + the habitations of men. We now began again to ascend these + magnificent and truly romantic mountains, and in two hours + approached partial coverings of snow. Vegetation here diminishes, + and nothing is now seen but firs, whose tops appear above the snow; + the cold is here intense; and it is remarkable, that, the pullets' + eggs that we procured in the campaign country just described, were + nearly twice the size of those of Europe. Proceeding two hours +76 further, we came to a narrow pass, on the east side of which was an + inaccessible mountain, almost perpendicular, and entirely covered + with snow; and on the west, a tremendous precipice, of several + thousand feet in depth, as if the mountain had been split in two, + or rent asunder by an earthquake: the path is not more than a foot + wide, over a solid rock of granite. Here the whole army dismounted, + and many prostrated in prayer, invoking the Almighty to enable them + to pass in safety; but, however, notwithstanding all possible + precaution, two mules missed their footing, and were precipitated + with their burdens into the yawning abyss. There is no other pass + but this, and that of Belawin, which is equally dangerous for an + army; so that the district of Suse, which was formerly a kingdom, + might be defended by a few men, against an invading army from + Marocco of several thousands, by taking a judicious position at the + southern extremity of this narrow path and tremendous precipice, + which is but a few yards in length. Proceeding northward through, + this defile, we continued our journey seven hours, (gradually + descending towards the plains of Fruga, a town of considerable + extent, distant about fifteen miles from the mountains.) Proceeding + two hours further, making together nine hours' journey, the army + pitched their tents, and we encamped on another table-land, on the + northern declivity of Atlas, at the entrance of an immense + plantation of olives, about a mile west of a village, called Ait +77 Musie, a most luxuriant and picturesque country. The village of Ait + Musie contains many Jews, whose external is truly miserable; but + this appearance of poverty is merely political, for they are a + trading and rich people, for such a patriarchal country. The olive + plantations at this place, and in many other parts of this country, + do honour to the agricultural propensity of the emperor Muley + Ismael, who planted them. They cover about six square miles of + ground; the trees are planted in right lines, at a proper distance; + the plantation is interspersed with openings, or squares, to let in + the air. These openings are about a square acre in extent. + + [Footnote 100: migration from this tribe attacked and took the + city of Assouan, in Egypt, some years ago. Vide Burckhardt's + Travels in Nubia.] + + [Footnote 101: This root abounds all over Suse, and is called + by the natives _Ark Suse, i.e._ the foot of Suse: the worm-seed + is called sheh.] + + In travelling through the various provinces of South and West + Barbary, these extensive plantations of olives are frequently met + with, and particularly throughout Suse. It appeared that they were + all planted by the emperor Muley Ismael, whose indefatigable + industry was proverbial. Wherever that warrior (who was always in + the field) encamped, he never failed to employ his army in some + active and useful operation, to keep them from being devoured by + the worm of indolence, as he expressed it. Accordingly wherever he + encamped, we meet with these extensive plantations of olive trees, + planted by his troops, which are not only a great ornament to the + country, but produce abundance of fine oil. The olive plantations + at Ras El Wed, near Terodant in Suse, are so extensive, that one +78 may travel from the rising to the setting sun under their shade, + without being exposed to the rays of the effulgent African sun. + + We remained encamped at Ait Musie[102] three days, amusing + ourselves by hawking with the prince's falconer, and hunting the + antelope. Early in the morning of the fourth day, we descended the + declivity of the Atlas, and travelling eight hours, we reached the + populous town of Fruga, situated in the same extensive plain + wherein the city of Marocco stands. From this village to Marocco, a + day's journey, the country is one continued corn-field, producing + most abundant crops of wheat and barley, the grain of which is of + an extraordinary fine quality, and nearly twice the size of the + wheat produced at the Cape of Good Hope. + + [Footnote 102: Here the prince sent couriers to the emperor, to + announce his approach.] + + On our approach to the metropolis, the emperor sent the princes + that were at Marocco to welcome the prince Abd El Melk. They were + accompanied by 100 cavalry, who saluted our prince with the Moorish + compliment of running full gallop and firing their muskets. These + princes, who were relations of Abd El Melk, son of Abd Salam, shook + hands with him respectively, and then kissed their own. This is the + salutation when friends of equal rank meet. We entered the city of + Marocco at the _Beb El Mushoir_, which is the gate situated near + the palace and place of audience, towards the Atlas mountains. The +79 next day I had an audience of the emperor, who received me in (the + _Jenan En neel_) the garden of the Nile, a small garden adjoining + the palace, containing all the fruits and plants from the Nile[103] + of Egypt. The (_worde fillelly_) Tafilelt-rose grows in great + luxuriance in this garden, resembling that of China; the odour is + very grateful and strong, perfuming the air to a considerable + distance. This is the rose, from the leaves of which the celebrated + (_attar el worde_) _i.e._ distillation of roses is made, vulgarly + called in Europe, _otto_ of roses. + + [Footnote 103: This orthography, _Nile_, has been imported from + France; with the French it is pronounced as we pronounce Neel; + and this is the intelligible pronunciation in Africa.] + + The emperor declared the port of Santa Cruz to be shut; and that no + European merchant of any nation should continue there. He gave me + my choice, either to quit the country, or establish a house at + Mogodor. I entreated a short time to consider which I should + choose, which was readily granted. + + The prince Abd El Melk was magnificent in his apparel, the Emperor + dressed very plain; these were two incompatible propensities, the + latter had probably heard of the prince's extravagance in this + respect, and chose to moralise with him by comparing his own + parsimonious and plain apparel to _his_ costly attire; and + insinuating that the iron buckle to his belt answered every purpose + of a gold one, reprimanded the prince for the extravagance and + vanity of his wardrobe, and acquainted his Highness that the port +80 of Santa Cruz should no longer remain open to European commerce. + The prince remained some days after this notification at Maroco; an + annual stipend was allowed him and he was sent to (the _Bled + Shereef, i.e._ the country of princes, viz.) Tafilelt, and had + apartments allotted him in the Imperial Palace at that place, which + is very magnificent and extensive. It is built of marble collected + for the most part from the _Kaser Farawan_ or ruins of Pharaoh, an + ancient city now in ruins, contiguous to the sanctuary of Muley + Dris Zerone, east of the city of Mequinas, on the western declivity + of the Atlas; this marble was transported across the mountains of + Atlas on camels, a distance of fifteen journies to Tafilelt. The + inhabitants of this part of Bled Eljereed live principally on + dates, which abound so in this country that the fruit of one + plantation is commonly sold for 1000 dollars, producing 1500 camel + load of dates, or 4500 quintals; there are thirty-five species of + this rich fruit, of which the _butube_ is unquestionably the best + and the most wholesome; it is rich, of a fine flavour, and sweet as + honey: the _buscre_ is also good; but so dry and full of saccharine + matter that it resembles a lump of sugar. Undoubtedly if this + country were in the hands of Europeans they would extract sugar, + perhaps as much as 150 lb. from a camel load of dates weighing 300 + lb. The _adamoh_ is the date that is imported to this country; it + is the best for keeping, but at Tafilelt they use it only for the + cattle, considering it an unwholesome kind and heavy of digestion. +81 The country from the eastern declivity of Atlas to Tafilelt, and to + the eastward of Tafilelt, even unto Seginmessa is one continued + barren plain of a brown sandy soil impregnated with salt, so that + if you take up the earth it has a salt flavour; the surface also + has the appearance of salt, and if you dig a foot deep, a brackish + water ooses up. On the approach, to within a day's journey of + Tafilelt, however, the country is covered with the most magnificent + plantations and extensive forests of the lofty date, exhibiting the + most elegant and picturesque appearance that nature, on a plain + surface, can present to the admiring eye. In these forests there is + no underwood, so that a horseman may gallop through them without + impediment. Wheat is cultivated near the river, and honey is + produced of an exquisite quality. The faith and honour of the + (filelly) inhabitants of Tafilelt is proverbial; a robbery has not + been known within the memory of man; they use neither locks nor + keys, having no need of either! + + Having had my audience of leave of the Emperor, I prepared to + proceed to Mogodor, but before I describe the country through which + we passed thither, it may not perhaps be uninteresting to give some + account of the Imperial gardens at Marocco, which are three, the + _Jenan Erdoua_, the _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan En. neel_: the + last is confined to plants brought from the Egyptian Nile. The + _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan Erdoua_, contain oranges, citrons, +82 vines, figs, pomegranates, water and musk melons, all of exquisite + flavour. The orange and fig trees are here as large as a middling + sized English oak. Roses are so abundant at Marocco that they grow + every where, and have a most powerful perfume, insomuch that one + rose scents a large room; all other flowers are in abundance, and + many that are nursed with care in English hot-houses are seen in + the Marocco plains growing spontaneously. These gardens, as well as + others throughout the country, are watered by the Persian or + Arabian wheel, with pitchers fixed to it, which discharge the water + into a trough or tank; as the pitchers rise and turn over their + contents into this tank, the water is communicated to the garden + and inundates the plants. Departing from Marocco to Mogodor, the + first day's journey is through the plains of Sheshawa, a fine + campaign country abounding in corn; the mountains of Sheshawa, + which are higher than any in Great Britain, have strata of oyster + and other shells at the top of them. We encamped at the foot of + these mountains; I had the curiosity to examine the depth of these + strata of shells, and found them several feet deep, and extending + all the way down the mountains. The rivers Sheshawa and Wed Elfees + water these plains. The next day's journey brought us to a + sanctuary, where we met very good entertainment, that is, such as + the country affords, plenty of good provisions and hospitable + treatment. +83 + The next evening we encamped at a place called _Dar El Hage + Croomb_, a very picturesque situation, where we were hospitably + entertained; the Sheik coming to drink tea with me, related the + history of his ancestors and traced his descent through many + generations of warriors, whose dextrous management of the lance was + the burden of the story. The next day, after travelling about six + hours, we arrived at the extremity of the productive country, and + entered _El Grored_, or the desert of sandy hills, which divide the + rocky peninsula of Mogodor, from the cultivated land; this Sahara + consists of loose sand-hills very fatiguing to the horses, and + although not more than three miles in width, we were an hour and a + half in crossing them, before we entered the gate of Mogodor. +84 + + LETTER VIII. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-Street, London, + + My Dear Sir, 12th December, 1797. + + I thank you warmly for your intelligence concerning the interior of + Africa, and beg you will continue to favour me with all the + information you can collect upon this subject. Mr. Park has been + almost as far as Jinnie, but did not reach Timbuctoo; he is now on + his way to England, in an American ship, via America. We are + anxious for his arrival, which may be expected in the course of the + present month; and all the Africani are extremely curious to hear + the detail of his most interesting journey, which we hope will + produce some authentic knowledge, of a considerable part of those + regions, that have hitherto baffled all the ardour and energy of + European enquiry, though they have always excited the curiosity of + the most eminent and enlightened men, both in past and present + times. + + I thank you also for the commercial intelligence you have sent me. + + Do you know whether the emperor of Marocco has any collection of + books? If he has, probably some ancient books, of great value, + might be found among them. +85 + I should consider it as a very great obligation if you could + procure, and send me any book or manuscript in the character and + language of Timbuctoo. We are informed that, besides the Arabic, + they have a character of their own, perfectly different. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Sincerely your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + + _Extract of a Letter to Mr. Jackson, from His Excellency J.M. + Matra, British Envoy to Marocco, &c._ + + Tangier, November 8, 1797. + + I have not yet received any answer from Sir Joseph Banks to the + letter from you, which I sent to him. Should you be able to obtain + any information from Timbuctoo[104], or of the interior of this + country, which would gratify one's curiosity, I will be very + thankful for a slice of it. + + I am ever, dear Jackson, + Most faithfully your's, + JAMES M. MATRA. + + [Footnote 104: All _my information_ respecting Timbuctoo, will + be found in Jackson's Account of Marocco, Chapter XIII.] +86 + + LETTER IX. + + _Custom of visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco.--Journey + of the Merchants thither on that occasion.--No one enters the + imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode of travelling.--The + Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience of the + Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of + Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at + Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, east + and south of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of + eating.--Trades or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of + the Sultan.--Present received from the Sultan_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Mogodor, 1788. + + The emperor having departed from Mequinas where he passed the + winter, to Marocco, his summer residence, it becomes an incumbent + duty for all loyal subjects, to pay their respects to him. All the + bashaws of provinces, south of the river Morbeya, which divides the + northern part of his dominions from the southern, as well as all + the alkaids or governors of towns and districts under the authority + of the bashaws of the provinces, are expected to show their + loyalty, by obtaining permission to present themselves to the + imperial presence; when they give an account of the state of the +87 district which they respectively govern. The bashaw of each + province communicates with the emperor, and determines which of the + alkaids[105] shall have the honour of presenting themselves. On + these occasions, that is, when the emperor comes to Marocco, it is + customary for the merchants of Mogodor to perform the journey to + the metropolis[106] of the south, and to present his imperial + majesty with a present; indeed, it is not the etiquette of this + court for any one to demand an audience (which the lowest subject + in the realm may claim) without being prepared to present + something; so that the poor may have an audience by presenting half + a dozen eggs, or any similar trifle, such as some fruit or flowers; + but no one enters the imperial presence (_khawie_, as they term it, + _i. e._) empty-handed. The routine is this: The European merchants, + together with the house of Guedalla and Co., who are native Jews, + are called _el commercio;_ the commercio, therefore, solicit the + honour of presenting themselves to the emperor, to offer their + congratulations on his arrival; this is acceded to, and the + minister, who is denominated the _talb cadus_, a term designating a + man who disperses orders and communications to every one, writes a +88 letter to the commercio, expressive of the emperor's disposition to + see them, and requesting them to repair to his presence: a guard is + given by the alkaid of Mogodor, and a present _ought_ to be + selected of such articles as are not to be bought at the markets of + the country. A present consisting of such articles, previously + ordered from Europe, and judiciously selected, is better calculated + to gratify the emperor, than ten times the value injudiciously + collected. The merchants accordingly prepared themselves to proceed + to Marocco; some rode mules, some horses, for there are no + carriages in this country; and every individual had his tent and + servants with him. We travelled three days through a fine country, + and reached the city of Marocco the fourth day, in the afternoon, + travelling eight hours each day, at the rate of four miles an hour. + On our approach to the city, we sent an express to the _talb + cadus_, who, by the imperial order, appropriated the emperor's + garden, _jinnen el afia_, for our reception, the pavilion in which + was appropriated to our service; we preferred, however, in this + delightful climate, sleeping in our tents, which we were permitted + to pitch in this beautiful garden. We dined in the _coba_, or + pavilion. The (_talb cadus_) minister paid us a visit, to say that + the emperor requested we would take the following day to rest from + our journey, and at eight o'clock on the following morning, he + would receive us; the present was accordingly prepared, which was +89 carried by four-and-twenty men; every article (the bulky ones + excepted) being enveloped in a Barcelona silk handkerchief. The + emperor was in the (_m'ushoir_) place of audience, on that side of + the city which faces the mountains of Atlas. At our presentation we + did not prostrate ourselves, but bowed, in the European manner; the + emperor said, bono el commercio, a Spanish phrase which he uses in + interviews with Europeans, and which is equivalent to his saying, + you are welcome, merchants. To this we replied, _Allah iberk amer + seedi_, God bless the life of my master. The emperor asked if we + were recovered from the fatigue of our journey, and was quite + affable; he then said, communicate with the effendi[107], and + whatever you want shall be granted to you; for I am disposed to + encourage and (_amel el k'here_) to do good to my merchants. The + master of the audience then came to us, and signified that we might + depart; we made our obeisance, and returned to our habitation. This + was the audience of introduction, which is always short; the second + audience is for business; and the third is the audience of + departure. We remained encamped in the imperial garden a fortnight + before we had another audience; in the mean time we amused + ourselves in riding about the country, and in visiting some of the +90 most respectable inhabitants, among whom was the _cadus_, who has a + noble mansion, replete with every convenience, and a garden in the + centre of it. The rooms of this house were long and narrow, with a + pair of high doors in the centre of the room, through which alone + the light is admitted; the floors were paved with small glazed + tiles, about two inches square, very neatly fitted, and of + different colours; the walls were the same, a mode of building + which in this warm climate imparts a grateful coolness; the + ceilings are painted in the Araberque style, with brilliant + colours. The roofs are of terras, and flat, having an insensible + declivity, just sufficient to give the rain that falls a course, + which falling into the pipes, is received in the (_mitfere_) a + subterraneous cistern, which supplies the family with water the + whole year, till the rainy season returns again. + + [Footnote 105: In each province, or bashawick, there are + several alkaids or governors of districts.] + + [Footnote 106: The city of Fas is the metropolis of the north, + as Marocco is of the south. Mequinas is the court town of the + north, and resembles the Hague, where few reside but such as + are employed in the service of the crown.] + + [Footnote 107: This word was used by the seed, or emperor, in + the presumption that it is understood by Europeans; but _cadus_ + is the Arabic term.] + + There is near to the walls of Marocco, about the north-west point, + a village, called (_Deshira el Jeddam_) i.e. the Village of Lepers. + I had a curiosity to visit this village; but I was told that any + other excursion would be preferable; that the Lepers were totally + excluded from the rest of mankind; and that, although none of them + would dare to approach us, yet the excursion would be not only + unsatisfactory but disgusting. I was, however, determined to go; I + mounted my horse, and took two horse-guards with me, and my own + servant. We rode through the Lepers' town; the inhabitants +91 collected at the doors of their habitations, but did not approach + us; they, _for the most part_, showed no external disfiguration, + but were generally sallow; some of the young women were very + handsome; they have, however, a paucity of eyebrow, which, it must + be allowed, is somewhat incompatible with a beauty; some few had no + eyebrows at all, which completely destroyed the effect of their + dark animated eyes. They are obliged to wear a large straw hat, + with a brim about nine inches wide; this is their _badge of + separation_, a token of division between the clean and unclean, + which when seen in the country, or on the roads, prevents any one + from having personal contact with them. They are allowed to beg, + and accordingly are seen by the side of the roads, with their straw + hat badge, and a wooden bowl before them, to receive the charity of + passengers, exclaiming (_attanie m'ta Allah_) "bestow on me the + property of God;" (_kulshie m'ta Allah_) "all belongs to God!" + reminding the passenger that he is a steward of, and accountable + for the appropriation of his property; that he derives his property + from the bounty and favour of God. When any one gives them money, + they pronounce a blessing on him; as (_Allah e zeed kherik_) "may + God increase your good," &c. The province of Haha abounds in + lepers; and it is said that the Arganic[108] oil, which, is much + used in food throughout this picturesque province, promotes this + loathsome disease! + + [Footnote 108: This oil, which is excellent, and generally used + for frying fish, should be thus prepared, according to the + learned Doctor Barata, who was pensioned physician to the + _Commercio_ of Mogodor, by which preparation it becomes + perfectly wholesome, and deprived of any leprous or other bad + quality: Take a quart of Argan oil, and put in it a large onion + cut in slices; when it boils add a piece of crumb of bread, + equal in size to an onion, then let it boil a few minutes more, + take it off, let it cool, and strain the oil through a sieve, + and bottle it for daily use.] + +92 + The chain of Atlas, east of Marocco, continually covered with snow, + gives a pleasant coolness to the air of the city, in the summer + season, particularly in the morning and evening; the coolness is + generally said, however, to produce ophthalmia.[109] These + mountains are immensely high, and their magnitude makes them appear + not more than five miles from the city. It is, however, a day's + journey to the foot of them, after which the ascent is so gradual, + that it takes two days more to reach the snow. This part of the + chain of Atlas, east of the city of Marocco, is seen at sea, twenty + miles west of Mogodor, which latter place is about 120 miles from +93 Marocco; it is 35 miles from the city of Marocco to the foot of + Atlas; and it is two days' journey from the foot of Atlas to the + snow, which constantly covers the summit of these immense + mountains. They are thus seen at a distance of 245 miles: + + 20 miles from land at sea. + 120 do. Mogodor to Marocco. + 35 do. Marocco to the foot of + the mountains. + 70 do. the foot of Atlas to the snow. + --- + Seen at 245 miles distance. + --- + + [Footnote 109: Ophthalmic disorders prevail among the Jews of + Marocco, but are seldom seen among the Moors. The Jews live in + great filth at Marocco; the dung-hills and ruins are in some + places as high as the houses. The Muhamedan doctrine does not + allow the Moors to neglect personal cleanliness, which, among + these people, is a cardinal virtue; and this, I presume, is the + cause of their being, in a great measure, exempt from + ophthalmia, whereas the Jews, on the contrary, are generally + affected with it.] + + In this calculation, the direct distance in the ascent of the + mountain, is less than the travelling distance; but without taking + notice of the distance from the border of the snow to the summit of + this lofty mountain, which is said to be another day's journey, the + one may balance the other: we may therefore calculate 70 miles as + the direct longitudinal distance, although I am persuaded it is + much more from the foot to the summit of that part of the Atlas + which is visible at sea. + + H.T. Colebrooke, Esq., in a paper inserted in the Asiatic + Transactions, vol. xii. asserts, that it requires an elevation of + 28,000 feet, for an object to be visible at the distance of 200 +94 geographical miles; now 245 English miles are equal to 211-1/2 + geographical miles; consequently, if Mr. Colebrooke be correct, the + summit of Atlas, east of Marocco and Dimenet, which is seen at a + distance of 211-1/2 geographical miles, must be 29,610 feet high, + or above five miles and a half. + + Again, the chain of Atlas in Lower Suse, which lies east of Elala, + and which is constantly covered with snow, is situated three days' + journey, horse travelling, east-south-east from Elala, in Lower + Suse; Elala is three days' journey from Santa Cruz, horse + travelling, making together 180 miles: add for distance from the + foot of the Elala mountains to the snow, 60 miles, and the Atlas in + Lower Suse will be seen at the distance of 240 miles, or 207 + geographical miles. + + Thus, from Santa Cruz to the } + foot of the Atlas mountains, in the} 180 miles. + district of Elala, in Lower Suse } + + Add for distance from the foot } + of the Elala mountains to the } 60 + snow } + --- + So that the Atlas in Lower Suse, } + being seen at a distance of } 240 + + Or 207 geographical miles, must have an altitude of 28,980 feet. + + On the north side of the city of Marocco is a gate called _Beb El + Khummes_, and near it is held, every Thursday, a market called soke + _El Khummes_; at which immense quantities of horses, camels, mules, + asses, oxen, sheep, goats, wheat and barley are sold; oils, gums, +95 almonds, dates, raisins, figs, bees' wax, honey, skins, &c. &c. + &c.; also, slaves, male and female. Such a horse as would cost in + London 50_l._, sells here for 50 dollars; a good mule sells for the + same, viz. 50 dollars; a bull, 12 dollars; a cow, 15 dollars; + sheep, a dollar and a half, each; a goat, a dollar. Very fine large + grained wheat, which increases one-fifth in the grinding, sells at + one dollar per saa, or about half a dollar per Winchester bushel. + The slaves are conducted through the market by the auctioneer + (_delel_), who exclaims, occasionally, (_khumseen reeal aal + zeeada_, i.e.) "50 dollars on the increase," till he finds no one + will advance; when he goes to the owner and declares the price + offered; the owner then decides if he will sell or not; if he + sells, the money is paid immediately, but if not, he takes his + slave away with him, and tries him again the next market-day, or + waits in expectation that this wretched article of trade will rise + in value. + + A stranger passing through Marocco would consider it an irregular + miserable town; but the despotic nature of the government induces + every individual to secrete or conceal his opulence; so that the + houses of the gentry are surrounded with a shabby wall, often + broken or out of repair, at a considerable distance from the + dwelling house, which does not appear, or is invisible to the + passenger. Some of these houses are very handsome, and are + furnished with couches, circular cushions to sit on, and other +96 furniture, in all the luxury of the East. When a visitor or a guest + enters one of these houses, slaves come in with perfumes burning, + in compliment to the visitor. Coffee and tea are then presented in + small cups, having an outer cup to hold that which contains the + liquor, instead of a saucer; the sugar being first put into the + pot. The coffee or tea being poured out, already sweetened with + sugar, a negro boy generally takes his station in one corner of a + spacious room, pours out the liquor, and sends it to the guests by + another boy. The tea table is a round stand, about twelve inches + from the ground, at which the tea boy sits down on a leather + cushion, cross legged. + + When dinner is served, the food is in a large dish or bowl, on a + round stand, similar to that above described; three, four, or more + sit round it; a servant comes to the company with a ewer and + napkin; each person wash their right hand, and eat with their + fingers; in the higher circles, rose-water is used instead of + plain; if soup is served, they eat it with wooden spoons; in this + respect the emperor himself sets them the example, who reprobates + the use of the precious metals with food. + + When the Moors sit down to eat; high and low, rich and poor, (for I + have partaken of food with all ranks, from the prince to the + plebeian,) they invariably invoke God's blessing, previous to the + repast, and offer thanks at the conclusion. Their first grace is, + invariable, short, and comprehensive; _bis'm illah_, "In the name +97 of God." The after grace is, _El Ham'd u littah_, "Praise be to + God." + + A very excellent dish is generally eaten in this country, called + _cuscasoe_; it is made with flour, granulated into particles the + size of a partridge shot, which is, put over a steamer, till the + steam has sufficiently passed through it, so as to produce the + effect of boiling; it is then taken off, broken, and returned to + steam a second time; in the meantime, a chicken or some meat is + boiling in the saucepan, under the steamer, with onions, turnips, + and other vegetables; when the _cuscasoe_ has been steamed a second + time, it is taken off, coloured with saffron, and mixed with some + butter, salt, and pepper, and piled up in a large round bowl or + dish, garnished with the chicken or meat and vegetables. This is a + very nutritious, wholesome, and palatable dish, when well cooked. + It is in high estimation with the Arabs, Moors, Brebers, Shelluhs, + and Negroes. When they sit down to eat, each person puts his + fingers into the dish before him; and in respectable society, it is + remarkable how dextrously they jerk the food into their mouths, + which never come into contact with their hands; so that this mode + of eating is scarcely objectionable, certainly not obnoxious, as + some travellers have represented it; but who probably had + associated with the lower ranks of society, who, indeed, are not + particular in these observances. +98 + All kind of trades are carried on at Marocco: jewellers, + goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, tanners, &c. &c.; but that + which is the most honourable, is a shoe-maker, because Muhamed + himself was one. At Mequinas they make excellent shoes, of leather + impervious to water, for 1_s._ 8_d._ per pair. + + The time now approached for our audience of business, and we had + represented to the _Talb Cadus_, that the export duties on some + articles were too heavy, viz. on wax, almonds, and olive oil; also + on certain imports, viz. iron, steel, and Buenos Ayres hides; but + no diminution was obtained, except in the duty of bees' wax. The + emperor gave hopes of an exportation of grain, and desired us to + write to Europe for ships to come and load wheat, barley, Indian + corn, caravances, beans, lentils, and millet. We were favourably + received; the emperor asked several questions respecting Europe, + and informed us we should return to Mogodor in a few days. Three + days after this audience we were ordered to meet the emperor in the + _Jenan En neel_, where we had our audience of leave, and the + emperor gave each of us a fine horse, chosen by ourselves out of + his own stable; and we took our leave and departed for Mogodor the + following evening. We slept encamped under the magnificent and + lofty date trees, in the neighbourhood of the city, the first + night. +99 + + LETTER X. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-street, London, + + My dear Sir, September 10, 1798. + + I write to acknowledge the receipt of your favour. I know no man + better qualified than yourself for the station of an African + consul; and really think, that to assist you in obtaining such a + post, is to render service to my country, as well as to yourself. + Your information concerning the interior of Africa, and especially + concerning Timbuctoo, appears to me to be more accurate, authentic, + and extensive than that of any other person I have met with; + considerably more so than that of any of the correspondents of the + African association. Mr. Park, of whose return you are informed, + has brought home no addition to the stock of our knowledge of that + important place; though I think his geographical communications are + highly valuable, particularly as they regard the river and course, + &c. of the Niger. This celebrated river will, I think, in time be + the channel of communication between Europe and the interior of + Africa. It seems to penetrate into that continent, in its widest + and most interesting part; if it should be navigable through its + entire course, we might hereafter make it the instrument of the + most important discoveries, and the channel of the most valuable +100 commerce. I shall be much obliged to you for information concerning + this river, particularly as to its termination. I suspect it + discharges itself into some interior sea or vast lake, like the + Caspian; unless, like the Burrampooter, after various and extensive + windings, it may return towards its source, and fall into the + Atlantic. + + You will have heard of the landing of a French army in Egypt, under + Buonaparte; the French are enterprising, and if they should + penetrate from the eastward, while we advance from the west, the + interior of the African continent may at length be laid open. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Your's sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. +101 + + LETTER XI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + June 10.1800. + My dear Sir, + + I did not receive, till the 22d November, your favour, dated 1st + September last, for which I beg you to receive my best thanks. I + have transmitted an extract of it to Lord Moira, Sir Joseph Banks, + and to a friend of mine, who is a member of parliament, and has + great influence with his majesty's ministers; in order that he may + lay it before the secretary of state, in such a manner as to draw + his attention to it in the most impressive and effectual manner; + but I much fear that the pressure of the war, and its consequent + effects; the arrangements of finance, &c. will preclude their + immediate support to objects which they consider as of very + subordinate importance. The time is certainly highly favourable for + the cultivation of the friendship of the emperor, and of other + Muhamedan sovereigns; now that the British arms have preserved the + principal empire of the Moslems, by the victory at Aboukir, and the + defense of Acre; in consequence of which, Egypt has been recovered, + and one of the sacred gates of the Caaba again opened to the +102 Mussulmen. This appears to be an event of the highest consideration + to the Muhamedans of Africa, since it is by Grand Cairo, that the + western pilgrims communicate with Mecca. + + I suppose you have received the narratives, published by Park and + Browne, of their respective journies and discoveries in the + interior of your continent; they have done much, but much more + still remains to be done; and above all, the discovery of Timbuctoo + and its commercial relations. + + There is a captain Wild, now either at Tunis or Algiers, preparing + himself for this journey, (as I am informed,) a man of intrepidity, + judgment, and enterprise; whom Sir Joseph Banks writes me, he hopes + to engage in the employment of the African association. + + I assure you that I consider you, as the only European that + possesses any substantial and interesting information concerning + that part of interior Africa, which we are most solicitous to + investigate; and, therefore, set a high value upon whatever you are + so good as to communicate. I am also of opinion, that your plans + may very probably be adopted by administration, when the return of + peace shall leave their minds at liberty to attend to it. +103 + + LETTER XII. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + 5th May, 1801. + My dear Sir, + + I wrote you at considerable length on the 1st of June last, and + assure you that none of your letters, received prior to that date, + have remained unanswered. I have now to acknowledge the receipt of + your several favours, and beg you to accept my best thanks, for + your very curious and valuable present of the gold ring from + Wangara, which has been shown to several persons of great + distinction, and even to the king himself. _It is universally + considered as a great curiosity_; and I have taken care to make it + known that you are the person to whom I am indebted, for the first + _Wangarian_ jewel that has ever been seen in England. I have also + shown your letter, containing your judicious opinions upon the + course of the Niger[110], and other geographical points, to Sir + Joseph Banks and Major Rennell; and have invariably represented you + to them, and to others, as the person possessing eminently the best + information concerning the interior of Africa; an object which + draws at present the earnest attention, both of the learned and the +104 great, and which our late victories in Egypt, render more + peculiarly interesting. + + [Footnote 110: See Jackson's account of Marocco, last chapter.] + + I think, with you, it is probable there is a communication by water + between Jinnie and Egypt; but I should rather imagine there is some + large lake or Mediterranean sea, like the Caspian, for instance, + into which the Niger may discharge itself from the west, and a + branch of the Nile from the east. This idea seems to reconcile the + opinions of ancient geographers, with those resulting from modern + discoveries. If we should be able to effect the complete conquest + of Egypt, and to retain that kingdom, much light will probably soon + be acquired upon these interesting subjects. +105 + + LETTER XIII. + + _Journey from Mogodor, to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of + Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, to the Ruins of Pharaoh, + and thence through the Amorite Country to L'Araich and + Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as my_ (Tabuk) _Cook, + ana Deeb as my_ (Mule Lukkerzana) _Tent Master.--Exportation of + Wool granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the + Plague.--Arabs, their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations + respecting the River Tansift.--Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' + Pass.--Description of Saffy, and its Port or Road.--Woladia + calculated to make a safe Harbour.--Growth of Tobacco.--Mazagan + described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet Urtemma a dangerous + Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described.--Mausoleum of + the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of Shella, a Roman + Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of Rabat.--Productive Country + about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to Christians.--The + Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait Zimurh, + notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country disturbed + with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City and + its imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely + beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the + Fakeers of the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected + from the English in the Event of an Invasion by + Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of Benediction by the Fakeers at +106 my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of Pharaoh near the + Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.--The Descendants of + the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these People.--Various Tribes + of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar Kabeer.--Its Environs, a + beautiful Country.--Forest of L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of + Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as Imitations of Amber.--Grand + Entry of the British Ambassador into Tangier.--Our Ignorance of + African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces of his + Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Tangier, + 8th August, 1801. + Dear sir, + + My journey to meet His Excellency James M. Matra, the British + ambassador to the Court of Marocco, was undertaken principally to + obtain permission to ship a large quantity of wool which I had in + my possession, the exportation of which had been recently + prohibited. I thought I could not select a more seasonable time + than when our ambassador was at court; accordingly, I started from + Mogodor (the morning after I dispatched two vessels for Europe) on + the 4th June last, at four o'clock, P.M. My journey was first to + Rabat; thence, across the country, to Fas and Mequinas; thence to + the renowned and revered sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, on the + declivity of the mountains of Atlas, east of Mequinas; thence to + _Kassar Farawan_ (the ruins of Pharaoh), and through the warlike +107 province of the Ait Amor, to L'Araich, Arzilla, and to Tangier. + + I took with me two of the finest horses in the country, to ride + alternately. Two mules and three camels carried my baggage, tents, + &c. Muhamed of Diabet, commonly called _Deeb_, I engaged as + tent-master; this is the man that astonished Aly Bey El Abassy, + when he shot the fish in the river, as recorded by that interesting + traveller. I engaged a most excellent fellow as cook, a man who had + performed many journies in a similar capacity with the princes; he + was acquainted with the roads, the country, and the character of + the people; the camel-drivers and muleteers completed our party. + We arrived at Tela at nine o'clock in the evening, being a journey + of five hours. We remained at Tela the whole of the following day, + and started on the 6th June at seven o'clock; arrived, at ten + o'clock, at Akkermute, a town in ruins, in the plains west of + _Jebbel El Heddeed_ (the iron mountains), which was depopulated by + the plague about fifty years since. Passing through the plains of + Akkermute, towards the river Tensift, we saw a party of Arabs + hunting partridges; we did not stop to see this novel sport, but I + was informed that the dogs were directed by the huntsmen to the + spot where the birds settled, which roused them; they then pursued + them again, and after rousing them several times without + intermission, the birds become fatigued and exhausted by continual +108 flying, and the dogs then run them down and seize on them. In six + hours from Akkermute, at four o'clock, P.M., we reached the river + Tensift, which brings its water from the Atlas, east of Marocco, + meandering through the plains and passing about three miles north + of that city. + + We pitched our tents under the walls of the (_Luksebba_) castle, on + the south bank of the river. + + We started the next morning at six o'clock, and travelling through + a fine country, we came to a narrow pass on the declivity of a + lofty mountain called Jerf El Eudie, a most picturesque country, + and arrived at the port of Saffy at eleven o'clock. Saffy has no + harbour, but a road where ships are obliged to put to sea whenever + the south-wind blows; the town was fortified when in possession of + the Portuguese, and is situated in a declivity between two hills, + so that during the rainy season the waters come down so rapidly + that they sometimes overflow the lower apartments of the houses and + commit considerable damage. On the 8th June we started from Saffy + at nine o'clock, and arrived at the sanctuary of Seedi Cuscasoe at + five o'clock, P.M.; and proceeding on, we reached El Woladia at + nine, and pitched our tents. This place might be made a secure + harbour for the whole British navy, by blowing up a rock which + impedes the narrow passage at the entrance of a long and extensive + bay. From hence we started at half-past five o'clock in the + morning; we proceeded northwards along the coast till eleven +109 o'clock, when we reached the beautiful and abundant valley, the + Woolga; travelling on through the country, leaving the sea to the + left, we arrived at six o'clock at the Douar, (an encampment of + Arabs,) called _Woled Aisah, i.e._ "Sons of Jesus," situated in the + productive province of Duquella. The environs of the Douar of Woled + Aisah abound in plantations of tobacco, of a superior quality, + equal to the Havannah. The next morning, viz. on the 10th June, we + struck our tents at six o'clock, and travelling three hours we + arrived, at nine, at the _Jerf el Saffer_ (the Yellow Cliff): three + hours more brought us to Tet, and an hour more to Mazagan, which we + reached at one o'clock. Mazagan is the Portuguese name; the Moorish + name is El Burreja. This is a very strong place, having several + stout bastions; there is a magnificent (_mitfere_) cistern of + water, built by the Portuguese, supported by many pillars of great + strength of the Tuscan order. The water in the neighbourhood of + Mazagan is very salubrious; this country is full of springs. The + inhabitants have a good healthy colour, very different from the + inhabitants of the plains of the province of Duquella, which being + supplied by water from wells only, of from 100 to 200 feet deep, + have a sallow and sickly appearance. It may, in Europe, appear + extraordinary that the quality of water should produce such a + manifest difference in the complexion of the inhabitants, but when + we consider that these people drink no wine, spirits, or malt +110 liquor, the paradox will immediately vanish. After viewing the + mitfere, or cistern, and batteries at Mazagan, we mounted at four + o'clock, and arrived at Azamor at seven o'clock P.M., pitched the + tents in a large spacious fondaque, or caravansera, in the centre + of the town. We were annoyed during the night by thousands of + storks, the cluttering of whose bills would not permit us to sleep. + This town is in the centre of a beautiful country. On the 11th + June, at noon, we pursued our journey, and reached Sancet Urtemma + at eight o'clock P.M. This is a dangerous country, infested with + robbers, who, from the undulating face of the country, have many + modes of escape; we, therefore, retired into a solitary retreat, + and lay on our arms, without sleep, all night. At six o'clock next + morning, being the 12th June, we started, and arrived at Dar el + Beida at twelve. Here I was hospitably entertained by the agents of + the Spanish house of the Cinquo Gremos of Madrid, who were + established here for the purpose of shipping corn to Spain. We left + Dar el Beida, at half-past three, and reached Fedalla at half-past + seven. This is a fine productive country, abounding in grain as + well as Dar el Beida. On the 13th we started at four o'clock, and + reached El Mensoria at seven; stopped and dined, mounted at ten + A.M. and arrived at Rabat at seven o'clock, P.M. after a journey + from Mogodor, of 80-1/2 hours of actual travelling, or 242 English + miles.[111] + + [Footnote 111: Calculated at the rate of three miles an hour, + including stoppages and refreshments.] +111 + Rabat is the largest town on the coast of the empire, it is walled + round; its circumference is about four miles; an aqueduct conveys + abundance of water to the town from a distance of several miles. + The mausoleum of the sultan Muhamed, father to the present sultan + Soliman, is in the town of Rabat, it is a neat building, surrounded + by a colonade; here is a lamp continually burning, and a + _muden_[112], who is a fakeer, is continually proclaiming the + omnipotence of God, and that Muhamed is the prophet. "_La Allah, + ila Allah, wa Muhamed rassul Allah._" There is a very strong + battery towards the sea, at the mouth of the river, which is bomb + proof. The city wall is high, and is strengthened by several + bastions mounting cannon: towards the land, about a mile from + Rabat, there is a spring, reported to have been discovered by the + Romans, and near it is the Roman town of Shella, which none but + musulmen are permitted to enter. In it are said to be the tombs of + two sultans, but most probably of Roman generals. Kettles or pans + of coins are continually found by the people who dig the ground at + this place, and the coins found are Roman. Some European travellers + enhanced the price of these coins so much, by their eagerness to + purchase them, that they offered more than double their intrinsic +112 value, so that the Jews imitated them so well that they deceived + even these antiquaries. There are several mosques in this town, but + that which attracts particularly the notice of travellers, is the + _sma Hassan, i.e._ the tower of Hassan, situated about a mile from + Shella, on the south banks of the river Buregreg, so called from + its being in the province of Beny Hassan, it is an old tower built + in a superior manner by an architect of Grenada, the same that + built the tower at Marocco, called _Jamaa Lifenar_, one at + Timbuctoo, and that at Seville; it is about 200 feet high, + perfectly square, and a person may ride up to the top on horseback, + having a gradual ascent, and seven chambers one above the other: + the cement with which it is made is so hardened that no pickaxe can + destroy it. It was represented to the sultan Muhamed that the + apartments in this tower were the haunts of vice and immorality, + and the sultan ordered the floor or terras, by which visitors + ascend, to be broken; it was found, however, impossible to destroy + it, wherefore the workmen were ordered to desist, and the entrance + was blocked up with loose stones. This tower I ascended with my + friend the Comte de Fourban, nephew to the duke de Crillon, who + conducted the famous siege of Gibraltar, and whose machinations + were so admirably defeated by the immortal governor of that + garrison, General Elliott, Lord Heathfield. The Comte had ruined + his constitution by being immolated in a dungeon in France, during +113 the reign of Robespierre, where he remained during fifteen months, + oftentimes seated on steps in water up to his ankles. The Comte was + a very generous and liberal man, an emigrant French nobleman, + protected by the British consul at the court of Morocco. The + disorder contracted by ill usage and confinement in prison, brought + on a disease which, after applying various remedies to no purpose, + carried him off, and he died at Rabat. The house of the French + consul and those of some other European consuls who formerly + resided here, are conveniently situated on the southern banks of + the river Buregreg, which divides Rabat from Salee. Ships of one + hundred tons, that do not draw much water, may pass the bar and + load close to these houses; but larger vessels must come to anchor + in the offing, and take in their cargoes by boats. The country + about Rabat and Salee is wonderfully abundant in all the finest + grain, leguminous plants, fruits, vegetables, and cattle; the + orange, lemon, Seville, or bitter orange, and citron plantations + are here very extensive and extremely productive. Several ships + might be loaded here with oranges in October and November, before + the gales of the latter half of December and the month of January + set in. One hundred fine large oranges may be had for a drahim, a + silver coin worth 6_d._ sterling. The orange plantations of Rabat + are of incalculable extent; the trees are as large as a + middling-sized oak; the vineyards and cotton plantations are + likewise most abundant; and nothing can exceed the good quality of +114 the grapes, figs, oranges, citrons, apricots, peaches, and + water-melons; the quality of the latter is peculiarly _sweet_, they + are called _Dilla Seed Billa_; the seed of which might be + advantageously transported to our new colony, the Cape of Good + Hope. The vineyards of Rabat are very extensive; the vines are + cultivated in the Arabian system, on the ground, which is a light + sandy soil: the immense numbers of turtle-doves that are in these + vineyards is such, that a bad sportsman cannot fail killing a dozen + or two at every shot; they rise just before you in thousands, and + the foulahs, or vine cultivators, express their gratitude to the + Christians who go to shoot them. These birds, from being + unmolested, are so tame and so abundant, that they destroy an + incalculable quantity of the best fruit. + + [Footnote 112: The muden is the man who ascends the tower of + the Mosque and announces prayer.] + + On the 14th, the Comte de Fourban accompanied me, and we crossed + the river, in the ferry, to visit Salee. The inhabitants of this + town are inimical to Christians: we viewed the subterraneous cavern + where the Sallee rovers formerly confined their Christian slaves: + it resembled a mitfere or large subterraneous granary; it had two + grates to let in the air; it appeared perfectly dry, but no one was + in it. The Comte observed that it was far preferable to the prison + where he was confined in France, during the reign or usurpation of + Robespierre. The air of Salee and Rabat, and the adjacent country, +115 is strongly perfumed, morning and evening, with the sweet odour of + the orange-flower, of which they make immense quantities of + delectable comfits. + + On the morning of the 15th, we pursued our journey to Mequinas, + passing through a very fine country, inhabited by a Kabyl of + Berebbers, called Ait Zemurh. We halted, at four o'clock P.M. at a + circular Douar of these Berebbers, in a fine campaign country. The + next morning, at five o'clock, we struck the tents, and proceeded + through a dangerous country, infested by artful robbers, and the + occasional depredations of the lion and other wild beasts, whose + roaring we heard at a distance. We saw several square buildings, + which our guides informed us were built by the Berebbers, for the + purpose of destroying the lion. The patient hunter will conceal + himself in one of these buildings, which are about five feet by + seven, and will wait whole days for an opportunity to get a shot at + the lion: these noble beasts are here said to be the largest in all + Africa. After travelling this day ten hours, we pitched our tents + at another circular encampment of the Zimurite[113] Berebbers. + These people drive in stakes and place thorny bushes round their + encampment, eight feet high, and fill up the entrance every night + with thorns, as the fiercest lions of Africa abound in the adjacent + forests, and sometimes attack their habitations, accordingly they +116 keep a large fire all night to deter the lions and other wild + beasts from approaching. About two hours after midnight, my grey + horse, who was an old campaigner, neighed and awoke us; this gave + the alarm, and my people were presently on the alert, and perceived + two men approaching our tents, crawling naked along the ground, + which was of the same colour with their bodies. We did not wish to + take them, fearing that the people of the Douar would espouse the + cause of their countrymen, but my people gave the alarm, and + exclaimed "_Erd abellek asas_," i.e. "Be watchful, guards!" We then + saw these marauders jump up, and run away as fast as they could; + keeping watch the rest of the night: we were advised to take no + notice of this circumstance. The people of Ait Zimurh are professed + robbers: they would not allow us to pitch our tents _within_ their + circular encampment, a privilege universally granted to strangers + and travellers. I thought this very unhospitable; being totally + different from any thing I had ever before witnessed in this + country, where hospitality generally exceeds all bounds. I have no + doubt that the people of the Douar were in league with the robbers; + I considered my escape, the next day, when I was apprised of the + danger of the country I had confided in, quite providential, and I + have no doubt but these people would delude any one that would + trust to their honour: they reminded me of the ancient Africans, as + described by Sallust, in the wars of Jugurtha. + + [Footnote 113: The Zimurites, or Ait Zimure, are probably the + descendants of the Zemarites: for which see 1 Chron. i. 16.] +117 + We struck our tents at five o'clock, and travelled very fast to get + out of these treacherous habitations; for we learned that, the + preceding night, Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy, a Negro captain of the + emperor's army, passed this Douar, and was robbed of his bridles, + saddles, and tent equipage, with which the thieves made off, + without being discovered. I afterwards met Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy at + Mequinas; and he appeared quite astonished that I should have + escaped being robbed at the above Douar, calling the whole Kabyl a + set of lawless thieves. On the 17th, we started at five o'clock, + and arrived at Mequinas at nine o'clock, performing the journey + from Rabat to Mequinas in twenty-two hours, being sixty-six miles. + The city of Mequinas is the court-town of the northern division of + the empire: the imperial palace at this place is above two miles in + circumference. At the corners are erected (_Coba's_) square + buildings or pavilions, containing one room up stairs, where the + emperor frequently transacts business. This palace was built by the + sultan Muley Ismael: it is very neat, and consists for the most + part of moresque architecture; the marble columns and other + decorations were brought from (_Kasser Farawan_) the ruins of + Pharaoh, about a day's journey to the eastward. There is a superior + garden of choice fruit within the wall which surrounds the palace, + and in the latter are many elegant apartments, ornamented + _A-la-mauresque_. The ladies of Mequinas are so extremely handsome, +118 that I cannot say I saw one plain young woman, although I visited + several families; nay, I can say, without offense to truth, that I + did not see one that was not comely and handsome. I was most + hospitably entertained wherever I went. On the 18th June, at eight + o'clock A.M. we started for Fas; when we had approached the latter + city, we met a messenger, with the prince Muley Abdsalam's + secretary, from the emperor to his excellency J.M. Matra, the + British ambassador to the court of Marocco, who informed me that + his excellency had just terminated his embassy, had waited for my + arrival two days, and was on his return to Tangier. Presuming, + therefore, that the ambassador had negociated my business for me, I + turned to the north-east, travelled all day without halting, till + eight o'clock in the evening, when we arrived at the renowned + sanctuary[114] of Muley Dris Zerone, on the declivity of North + Atlas; a most magnificent, beautiful, and picturesque country, + abounding in all the necessaries and luxuries of life. This + sanctuary was never before, nor since, visited by any Christian. It + was here that the standard of Muhamed was first planted in + North-western Africa, by the fakeer and prince Muley Dris, the + founder. A favourable combination of circumstances, of which I + availed myself, enabled me to procure not only an asylum, but a +119 most hospitable and kind reception and entertainment in this + renowned sanctuary; and I actually slept in the _Horem_ or Adytum + itself, which honour I obtained by a present, appropriated to the + circumstance, and sent to the chief fakeer of the sanctuary, + accompanied with some observations expressed in a manner which was + agreeable to the holy fraternity. When I entered the _Horem_ of + this renowned sanctuary, where I slept alone, its silence reminded + me of the silence of death, which formed one of the ancient + mysteries of Egypt. The chief of the fakeers met me in the portico, + and cordially shook hands with me, calling me his brother. At this + time there was a rumour that Bonaparte was preparing to invade the + country; and indeed he had intimated as much, the English were + therefore courted; it was even hoped and expected by the emperor + that they would in such an event become his allies, and give him + succour. The next morning, I gave the fakeer some wax candles + accompanied with observations emblematical of the present, which + was so favourably received, that no less than nine saints + prostrated themselves at the place of prayer, which is at the + entrance of the town, as I passed out to pursue my journey, + uttering with audible voices a (_fatha_) prayer of benediction, + invoking on me the protection of Almighty God, and a blessing on + the English nation; also that God would avert every danger from the + embassy, and restore them in safety to their native land. I am +120 perfectly aware that, in recording this extraordinary circumstance, + persons who have visited this country, and have remarked the + rancour that generally exists with the lower orders against + Christians, may doubt my veracity, so unprecedented a circumstance + it is for a Christian to be admitted into a _Horem_! the most + respected also and the most sacred in the empire! My answer to such + is, that the circumstance is so incredible, that I should not have + presumed to lay it before the British public, if I had not two most + respectable witnesses, _now living_ in West Barbary, who can and + will corroborate my report; these two men are Bel Hage, a Muselman, + who had been the prince's cook, and who officiated as mine during + the journey, and Muhamed, commonly called Deeb, of Diabet, a + village near Mogodor, the same man whose dexterity Aly Bey, in his + travels, alludes to, when he shot a fish in the river near Mogodor. + + [Footnote 114: The town, in the centre of which stands the + sanctuary, contains about 5000 inhabitants.] + + Half an hour's journey after leaving the sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone, and at the foot of Atlas, I perceived to the left of the + road magnificent and massive ruins; the country for miles around is + covered with broken columns of white marble, the ruins appeared to + be of the Egyptian, and massive style of architecture. There were + still standing two porticos, about thirty feet high and twelve feet + wide, the top of which was one entire stone. I attempted to take a + view of these immense ruins, which have furnished marble for the +121 imperial palaces at Mequinas and at Tafilelt; but I was obliged to + desist, seeing some persons of the sanctuary following the + cavalcade. Pots and kettles of gold and silver coins are + continually dug up from these ruins. The country, however, abounds + in serpents, and we saw many scorpions under the stones that my + conductor Deeb turned up. These ruins are said by the Africans to + have been built by one of the Pharaohs: they are called "_Kasser + Farawan_" i.e. the ruins of Pharaoh.[115] Here begins the territory +122 of the Brebber Kabyl, the Amorites or Ite-amor, said to be the + descendants of the ancient[116] Amorites, whose country was + situated east of Palestine. These people retain their ancient + warlike spirit, but they are a faithless tribe, and intolerable + thieves, unlike the other Kabyles (who are, at least, faithful to + one of their own Kabyl); but these marauders are exceedingly + mistrustful of their own brethren, so that their habitations + consist of two or three tents only, in one encampment; and even + these are sometimes at variance with each other. The lamentable +123 result of this mistrustful and marauding spirit, is wretched and + universal poverty. Their country is a succession of gentle + undulating hills, without trees or plantations of any kind. The + late sultan Muhamed used to compare the provinces or races of men + in his empire, to the nations of Europe, the English he called + warriors, the French faithless, the Spaniards quiet and + inoffensive, the Romans, i.e. the people of Italy, treacherous, the + Dutch a parsimonious and trading people; the other powers of + Europe, having no consul at Marocco, nor merchants in the country, + are known only by name: accordingly, in allusion to the warlike + spirit of the English, he would call the Ait Amor, "the English of + Barbary;" Temsena, the French; Duquella, the Spanish; Haha, the + Italians; and Suse, the Russians. When the sultan Muhamed began a + campaign, he never entered the field without the warlike Ait Amor, + who marched in the rear of the army; these people received no pay, + but were satisfied with what plunder they got after a battle; and + accordingly, this principle stimulating them, they were always + foremost on any contest, dispute, or battle. They begin the + campaign almost in a state of nudity, and seldom return to their + homes without abundance of apparel, arms, horses, camels, and + money; but this property quickly disappears, and these people are + soon again reduced to their wonted misery and nudity, and become +124 impatient for another campaign of plunder. When the present sultan, + Soliman, came from Mequinas, in the year of the plague (1799), a + division of his army passed near Mogodor, and the encampments of + the Ait Amor, or Amorites occupied the whole of the country from + the river to the Commerce Garden, a distance of three miles. It is + very probable that some other of the tribes bordering on Palestine, + may have emigrated in remote times, and may have taken their abode + on the Atlas mountains. There are above twenty (kabyls) tribes + of[117] Berebbers occupying the mountains of Atlas, as Ait-Girwan, + Zian, Ait-Ziltan, Ait-Amor, Ait-Ebeko, Ait-Kitiwa, Ait-Attar, + Ait-Amaran, and many more whose names I do not now recollect. We + travelled seven hours through the Amorite country, and pitched our + tents in the north part of the plains of Msharrah Rummellah. Fire + being lit, the Moors sat round to warm themselves, and confidently + animadverted on the prosperity that would necessarily attend our + journey, after having met with such a hospitable and favoured + reception at the renowned sanctuary before mentioned. + + [Footnote 115: In reply to those learned sceptics who have + studied books; but not men, and the manners of different + countries; who believe nothing but what they have seen; and who + say that Pharaoh never came so far west; I reply, that our + knowledge of African history is extremely imperfect. In fact, + we now know as certainties, various articles of which no record + is to be found in any ancient writer; for the affairs of + Africa, which, of late, have so deservedly excited the + attention of the learned, were as little known to the ancients + as they are to the moderns; insomuch that not a word is to be + found in any ancient record or history extant, of those curious + astronomical representations, the Zodiacs, which adorn the + ceilings of the temples in _Egypt_, nor of the paintings which + cover the silent and solemn repositories of their dead. Even + the royal sepulchres, surpassing all the efforts of art + hitherto known, in brilliancy of colours and decorative + sculptures, are recorded by no historian! Neither in any + history, _known to Europe_, is there any allusion to the + Egyptian custom of placing books, i.e. rolls of manuscript, in + the mummy coffins with the bodies of the deceased. For much of + the knowledge collected respecting Africa, we are indebted to + the catacombs of Egypt, and we must not hope to know much more, + whilst our ignorance of the Arabic language is so manifest; we + must travel far out of the precincts of Greek and Latin lore, + before we shall procure correct histories of African affairs! + Our knowledge of Hebrew, in Europe I apprehend, is almost as + much confined and as imperfect as that of Arabic! By the + assistance, however, of the latter, what store of learning + might we not expect from complete Arabic translations of many + of the Greek and Latin authors, _viz._ of the _complete_ works + of Livy, Tacitus, and many others. I recollect conversing with + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, (a gentleman deeply + versed in Arabian literature,) about the close of the last + century, who mentioned circumstances, which gave me reason to + suppose that there is extant a complete Arabic translation of + Livy as well as of Tacitus, as the bashaw assured me there was, + and that he had read them, and they were to be found in the + recondite chests of the Imperial library at Fas, in which it is + more than probable that there are many valuable transcripts in + Arabic of ancient authors, quite lost to erudite Europe! A + knowledge of the Arabic language in this country is so + indispensable, and is held in such high estimation, that every + one who does not understand it, is denominated _ajemmy_, _i.e._ + barbarian or European.--St. Paul in the same spirit says, I + Corinth. ch. xiv. v. 11., "He that speaketh unintelligibly, is + unto us a barbarian."] + + [Footnote 116: See Genesis, xv. 16. Deuteron. xx. 17. Judges, + i. 34.] + + [Footnote 117: Some persons consider several tribes of these + Berebbers to be colonies of the ancient Phenicians.] + + On the morning of the 20th June, we struck our tents at six + o'clock, and pursued our journey to L'Araich, and soon entered the + territory that belongs to the agriculturists of El Kassar Kabeer, a +125 beautiful country not unlike that of Ait-Amor in appearance, but + bearing the evidences of agricultural industry. Here we discovered + magnificent and extensive plantations of olives, immense + citron-trees, orange-groves, and spacious vineyards, peaches, + apricots, greengages, and walnuts were also the produce of this + country, besides excellent wheat of a large and long transparent + grain like amber, yielding, when ground into flour, from fifteen to + twenty per cent. increase, in quantity. Anxious now to overtake His + Excellency the ambassador, for the purpose of being present at his + entry into Tangier, we accelerated our pace, with a view of coming + up with him at L'Araich. We arrived at the forest of L'Araich at + dusk, and travelled through it all night till five o'clock next + morning. + + Having travelled incessantly twenty-three hours without halting, + being much fatigued, I desired Deeb to take a little rest with me + in an adjacent field, and we sent on Bel Hage with the baggage to + L'Araich, to wait our arrival at the ferry. We pursued our journey + at seven o'clock, and entered the town at nine. On reaching the + ferry, Bel Hage introduced a courier, who had been dispatched to me + from Fas, by a friend of mine, who informed me how much he, and + many of my Moorish friends had been disappointed, that I did not + enter that city, where I understood preparations had been made for + my entertainment, in the odoriferous gardens of the merchants of +126 Fas. The courier brought me a present of gold wire and gold thread, + of the manufacture of Fas, and some gold ornaments of filligrane + work from Timbuctoo, of the manufacture of Jinnie. It is more than + probable that the Fasees learned the art of manufacturing gold + thread from the Egyptians: it is much superior to that which is + imported into Barbary from Marseilles. The ladies ornament their + cambric dresses with it, and the Fas gold-thread never loses its + colour by washing, but the French does; the Fas gold thread wears + also much better, and is more durable; the change of colour may + possibly originate from the great proportion of alloy in the gold + of the French manufacture, whereas that of Fas, according to an + imperial edict, must be of a certain fineness, approaching to pure + gold; the gold wire of which it is made being first assayed by the + (_M'tasseb_) supervisor of manufactures. Great quantities of gold + thread are used in the elegant shawls and sashes of silk and gold + made at Fas, the better kind of which are reserved for princes and + bashaws, in which they use, as before observed, the Fas thread + only. They manufacture also at Fas, a very correct imitation of + amber-beads, impossible to be discriminated by the best judges, but + by rubbing the artificial amber, and then applying it to a bit of + cotton; the latter does not adhere, but the natural amber attracts + the cotton as a magnet does iron; and this is the discriminating + criterion whereby to distinguish them. +127 + But, to return to our journey, we found the ambassador had passed + the preceding day, we therefore crossed the river, and travelled on + till nine o'clock at night, when, after being a-horseback + thirty-four hours, refreshed only by two hours' sleep, we came up + with the ambassadors, Cafila, and guard, in a fine open campaign + country, half-way between Tangier and Arzilla; and soon after I + received a courier from Sir Pieter Wyk, Swedish consul-general to + the empire residing at Tangier, with a very friendly invitation to + his house and table, which being the first offer and from a sincere + and worthy friend, I with pleasure accepted it, and returned the + express immediately. On the morning of the 22d June, I breakfasted + at five o'clock with the ambassador, and, discussing with him my + business, I learned that he had terminated it to my satisfaction. + We started together at seven o'clock, and moved slowly on towards + Tangier, it having been ordered by the emperor, that the English + ambassador's entry into that town should be marked with every + possible honour and attention. An hour before we reached Tangier, + the governor, with the whole garrison, came out to salute and greet + the ambassador, the cavalry running full gallop, and firing their + muskets, as is the custom with them in all rejoicings. At half-past + eleven the cannon of Tangier began to announce the ambassador's + arrival, and continued, not a royal salute, but every gun in + Tangier was discharged; and at twelve o'clock we entered the gates. +128 + + LETTER XIV. + + _Result of the British Embassy_. + + FROM HIS EXCELLENCY J.M. MATRA TO MR. J. + + Old Fez, Sunday night, June 14, 1801. + + Dear Jackson; + + After a most unpleasant and tedious negotiation of nine days, I + have just finished my business. I march off early to-morrow + morning, and am much employed in packing up, translating, and + copying of papers. + + The letter I solicited for you is just brought to me, mixed with + Mr. Foxcroft's business, and the provision for the shipping in + Mogadore; but the Talb promises to bring me a separate one very + early in the morning, when I will inclose it to you. + + _Through the interest of Muly Abdel-melk-ben Driss, the orders were + some time since sent to Mogadore, to reduce your new duty to the + old standard of Seedi Muhamed_. + + I have been treated by the emperor like a prince, and with a + friendly personal attention I had no idea of; but my business has + been marvellously tormented. Of that, as we are to meet soon, I + will say no more. I am half dead. + + God bless you. + J. MATRA. +129 + + LETTER XV. + + _European Society at Tangier.--Sects and Divisions among Christians + in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the Propagation of Christianity, + and casts a Contempt upon Christians themselves.--The Cause of + it.--The Conversion of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation of + the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians themselves, as an + Example eligible to follow_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + It is not only the duty, but it is the manifest policy of + Christians who reside in Muhamedan countries, to preserve that + peace and harmony that is so often inculcated by our divine Master: + there should be no followers of Paul or of Apollos, of the Pope or + of Luther, but Christians altogether should forget sects, and + become followers of Christ, by practising his divine and luminous + doctrine. This principle, strictly adhered to, would have greater + effect in propagating the Christian doctrine, than the united + efforts, however arduous, of all the missionaries in Africa. We + should first begin by reforming the manners of those Christians who + are established in Muhamedan countries, holding responsible + situations, so as to show the Muhamedans, by their harmony and good + will, the advantages of the benign influence of the great Christian + principle, "Love thy neighbour as thyself." Until the disgraceful +130 animosity lamentably prevalent between the Catholic and Protestant, + the Lutheran, Calvinist, and other sects of Christians be + annihilated, it cannot be expected by any reasonable and reflecting + mind, that essential progress can be made in the propagation of + Christianity in Africa, at least in the Muhamedan part of it. We + must purify our own actions, and set a laudable example of chaste + and virtuous conduct, as a prelude to the conversion of the people + of this continent. The Africans, viz. the Arabs, Berebbers, + Shelluhs, Moors, and Negroes are, _generally_ speaking, shrewd, + acute, discerning races of men; and it cannot be supposed by any + but insane enthusiasts, that the doctrines of Christ can be + propagated in those countries, until an example be set for their + imitation better than their own practice, and more conformable to + the true Christian doctrine than any that has hitherto been offered + for their imitation. + + Tangier is the residence of the consuls-general of all the nations + of Europe, who send occasionally ambassadors to the Court of + Marocco; and these gentlemen generally act as envoys or ministers, + as well as consuls. The English, French, Dutch, American, Spanish, + Portuguese, Swedish, and Danish consuls reside here, some with + their families, some without. I had not been long here before I + perceived that the Moors of Tangier manifested an extraordinary + contempt for Christians, the general respect which is shown to them + at Mogodor, is unknown here. The reason is evident: the families of +131 these gentlemen were at variance with each other, and the + respective ladies did not visit one another. This circumstance was + too well known to the Moors, and materially contributed to create + among those people that contempt for the Christians, which, + perhaps, is due to all, whatever be their _professed_ doctrines, + who have not charity enough, in the correct acceptation of the + word, to maintain harmony in their own community. I was shocked to + see so many amiable families at variance. I will not declare if it + was pride, ambition, or contention for pre-eminence that produced + this want of harmony; but it is most certain, that Christians, + whose destiny it is to reside among Muhamedans, should have more + than ordinary care to preserve that philanthropic disposition to + each other, which carries with it a high recommendation, + particularly in a country like _West Barbary_, where the gate of + every tent is open to the largest, most disinterested, and + unqualified hospitality, and where the sheik of every douar + considers it his first and indispensable duty to provide food and + rest to the needy traveller, and to the stranger at his gate. +132 + + LETTER XVI. + + _Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, showing the Distances + from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic Ocean; useful to + Persons travelling in that Country_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Mogodor, 1801. + + If you should ever come to this country, and have occasion to + travel through it, the following journal of a journey from Tangier + to Mogodor may be of service to you, in ascertaining the distances + from one port to another, &c. + + Departed from Tangier for Mogodor, + July 15, 1801, at 9 o'clock, A.M. Hours. + + Arrived at Arzilla, at 7, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; arrived at L'Araich, + at 2, P.M. 7 + + Started at 5, A.M.; arrived at Ras Doura, + at 3, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 6, A.M.; travelled three hours; + came to a plain, level country, and arrived + at Sallee, at 10 o'clock, P.M. 16 + + Crossed the river in the ferry, and remained + at the French Consul's Hotel, at + Rabat, three days. Mounted at 9; arrived + at El Mensoria, at 9, P.M. 12 +133 + Mounted at 6, A.M.; arrived at Dar El + Beida, at half-past 2, P.M. 8-1/2 + + Proceeded without halting, and arrived at + the Douar of Woled Jeraar, at 9, P.M. + and pitched our tents. 7 + + Mounted at 5, A.M.; arrived at Azamore, + at 7, P.M. 14 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; travelled southward, + leaving Mazagan to the right, and arrived + at the Douar of Woled Aisah, at + 1 o'clock, P.M. and pitched our tents. 6 + + Departed at 7, A.M.; arrived at El Woladia, + at 6, P.M. 11 + + Mounted at 8; arrived at Saffy, at 5. 9 + + Started at 1, P.M.; rode six hours to the + river Tansift; slept at the Sanctuary + near the river. 6 + + Rose at midnight, struck the tents, and + mounted at 1 o'clock, A.M. arrived at + the Sanctuary of Seedi Buzurukton, at + 11. 10 + + Dined, slept, and started again at 4 + o'clock, P.M. and entered Mogodor at + half-past 7 o'clock. 3-1/2 + + 130 + + Average rate of travelling, (including stoppages,) three miles per + hour, 390 miles in 130 hours. +134 + + LETTER XVII. + + _An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to Saffy, during a Civil War, + in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not pass, owing to the + Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and Shedma.--Stratagem + adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger of being + discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and + Compliments received from him on his having accomplished this + perilous Journey_. + + TO THE SAME. + Mogodor, 1802. + + Having arranged all my affairs, I awaited an opportunity to depart + for England. A Spanish vessel was lying at the port of Saffy, + nearly ready to sail, bound to Cadiz; but how to reach the former + port was the difficulty; the provinces of Shedma and Haha, through + which I must necessarily pass, were at war against each other, and + an army of several thousand men were encamped at Ain el Hajar, a + spring near the road, between Mogodor and Saffy; so that all + communication was cut off, insomuch that it was dangerous, even for + a courier, to attempt to pass from one port to the other. I was + extremely anxious to reach Europe, and I determined to go to Saffy + by land. I accordingly sent for a trusty Arab, whose character for +135 fidelity I had often before proved. I asked him if he would + undertake to conduct me to Saffy. He required a day to consider of + it. He then resolved to attempt it, provided I would adopt the + dress of an Arab, and accompany him: I agreed; and we started from + Mogodor at 4 o'clock; P.M. We passed into a convenient recess, to + change my dress, which being done, we mounted our horses and rode + away; we had not gone two hours, before some scouts of the army + came galloping towards us. Billa (my trusty guide, who was a native + of Shedma, and a man of considerable influence in that province) + and his friend rode off with speed to meet them, and having + satisfied them that we were about business relating to the army, + they returned, and Billa's friend joining me, we inclined our steps + towards the sea, whilst Billa kept guard at a distance; and, + reaching a convenient and solitary retreat, we halted there till + dark; when retracing our steps for a few miles, it was concerted + that I should pass as a wounded man retiring from the army to have + my wounds examined and dressed. Billa was so well acquainted with + the roads, and all the bye-passes of the country, that, travelling + fast over the plains, not on the roads, we soon reached to the + northward of the encampments of Shedma. We passed several + straggling parties from the army, who saluted us with (_Salem u + alikume_) "Peace be to you;" to which we replied ("_Alikume +236 assalam_") "To you peace;" and Billa added "_Elm'joroh_," i.e. a + wounded man. In the old bed of the river Tansift, now full of + bushes of white broom, I narrowly escaped being discovered: as the + day was breaking, a party of Arabs suddenly turned a corner, and I + had just time to cover my mouth and chin with my (_silham_) cloak, + before they gave the salutation, or they would have discovered me + (being without a beard) to be a Christian; we passed the river, + however, perfectly safe, and were then soon in the province of + Abda, when all danger was at an end; we entered the town of Saffy, + at two o'clock in the afternoon. The Bashaw of Abda, _Abdrahaman + ben Nassar_, a renowned warrior, who had been at the head of an + army of 60,000 horse, in opposition to the Emperor, Muley Soliman, + received me with his accustomed urbanity and hospitality, and asked + me if I had come to Saffy through the air, or by sea. I replied, I + had come by neither, but by land. "How is it possible," said he, + "that you could come by land, when even a courier could not pass. + Did you meet with no impediment?--you astonish me: but praise be to + God, that you have arrived safe, and you are welcome." +137 + + LETTER XVIII. + + _Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy, in + Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in + Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, + in Suse.--Country infested with rats.--Situation of + Tomie.--Entertainment at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled + Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to entertain his Guests.--Arabian + Dance aud Music.--Manner and Style of Dancing.--Eulogium of the + Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners of the latter.--Their + personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to have a Commercial + Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince respecting + Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various + Articles of Commerce.--Viceroys offer to build a House, and the + Duties.--Contemplated Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold + and Silver Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and + Grapes.---Mode of Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at + Delemy's.--Elegant Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince + prepares to depart for Tafilelt_. + + TO THE SAME. + Santa Cruz, June 7, 1794. + + I received a letter from the[118] Prince Muley Abdsalam, who lately + went from Santa Cruz to the Khalif of Suse, Alkaid Muhamed ben + Delemy, whose castle is in Shtuka. The prince wished to see me on +138 some commercial business that had been suggested to him by the + khalif or viceroy. We (that is, Signor Andrea de Christi, a native + of Italy, and a Dutch merchant established at Santa Cruz, and + myself) prepared our tents and servants, and departed for Shtuka + early in the morning. We passed through a fine campaign country, + occupied by a tribe of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, and arrived, late + at night, at (_Luksebba_) the castle of Delemy, who was also sheik + of an emigration of the Arabs called Woled Abbusebah, and of + another emigration of Arabs called Woled Deleim, who had taken up + their abodes in Shtuka. When we arrived, our reception was in the + true style of Arabian hospitality. Delemy had prepared and had + pitched tents in a large garden adjoining his castle, wherein we + resided. Our own tents were pitched in the Mushoir, or place of + audience, a spacious plain, enclosed by a wall, where the sheik + gave audience to the various kabyls of Suse. The following day we + had an audience of the prince, who requested me to accompany Delemy + to a port of Suse, which had been formerly frequented by European + ships, which took in water there, and ascertain if it were a port + convenient for a commercial establishment. The name of this seaport + was called Tomie by the Portuguese, who formerly had an + establishment there; but by the Arabs, _Sebah Biure_, i.e. the + Seven Wells, because there were seven wells of excellent water +139 there: three of them, however, when we visited this port, were + filled up and useless. We left Delemy's castle in the afternoon, + about two or three o'clock, and we went at a pace called by the + Arabs _el herka_[119], over a plain country infested with rats, and + the haunts of serpents, our horses continually stumbling over the + rat-holes. We were, to the best of my recollection, about four + hours going. We found Tomie, an open road, not altogether + calculated to form an advantageous commercial establishment. Its + situation with respect to the sea being somewhat objectionable. We + sat down near one of the wells, and after Delemy and his guards had + amused themselves with (_lab el borode_) running full gallop and + firing, we drank Hollands till we became gay. The sun had just set, + when we mounted our horses to return. After an hour's _herka_, we + approached a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, who, seeing their + sheik, came forward and kissed his stirrups, entreating him to pass + the night with them, which, it appeared, would have been contrary + to the etiquette of Arabian hospitality to refuse. Delemy, + therefore, asked us if we would consent to sleep there; and, + apologising for not conducting us to our own beds that night, again + intimated, that it was, in a manner, incumbent on him, not to + refuse. We, therefore, consented to stop. This noble-spirited Arab, +140 anxious to entertain us, and justly conceiving that the beds and + habits of these Arabs were very different from what we had been + accustomed to, sought to beguile the time, and accordingly + endeavoured to engage some ladies belonging to the douar to dance, + but they positively declined dancing before Christians. Delemy + expostulated with them, representing the propriety of doing so, + before the prince's guests; but the ladies apologised, by declaring + that their splendid dancing dresses were not made up. Delemy, + however, with the true energy of an Arab, was determined that he + would make our abode here as pleasant as possible, and desirous + also to show us the spirit of Arabian dancing, he went himself, + accompanied by two of his friends, to a douar, at some miles' + distance, and, after much persuasion, he prevailed on six young + ladies to come and dance. In about two hours, the sheik returned, + and informed us, that knowing that beds in the desert would not + suit our customs, he had engaged some young girls to amuse us with + dancing during the night, assuring us at the same time that they + excelled in that graceful art, and he had no doubt they would amuse + us. The tents were cleared and lighted; two sheep were killed, and + the _cuscasoe_ was preparing, when the ladies arrived. The music + consisted of an instrument similar to a flageolet, (_tabla_) a + kettle-drum, and a sort of castanets of steel, an _erbeb_, or + fiddle with two strings, played with a semicircular bow. The tunes +141 were gay and sprightly, and the damsels tripped along on the light + fantastic toe in a very superior and elegant style. They danced + without men; advancing gently at first, apparently without taking + the foot off the ground, but gradually advancing; after which they + performed some steps similar to those in the Spanish bolera; and, + turning round on the toe, they danced a most elegant _shawl_ dance, + equal to what was danced at the Opera in London by Parisot, but + without the horizontal movement, or any motion that could offend + the chastest eye. This unique national dance was encouraged from + time to time by the approbation of twelve captains of the viceroy's + guard, warriors of fame in arms, who were Arabs of the Woled + Deleim, and who were seated in a circle, with us, round the + dancers, expressing their delight and gratification in witnessing + such superior grace and elegance, exclaiming-- + + "Afakume el Arabe, makine fal el Arabe, + El Hashema, u zin, u temara, fie el Arabe." + "Bravo, O Arabs! there is none equal to the Arabs: + Excellent is the modesty, beauty, and virtue of the Arabs." + + [Footnote 118: Elder Brother of the present Emperor of Marocco, + Muley Soliman.] + + [Footnote 119: A pace similar to that which European cavalry go + when charging.] + + These eulogiums were not lost on the ladies, who increased the + spirit of the dance. When this amusement had continued about three + hours, the cuscasoe, meat, and vegetables were brought in, as a + supper. The Moors ate plentifully; but the abstemious Arabs ate + very little; the ladies partook of sweet cakes and dates; they very +142 seldom chew meat, but when they do, they think it gross to swallow + it, they only press the juices from the meat, and throw away the + substance. The manners of these damsels were elegant, accompanied + with much suavity and affability, but very modest and unassuming + withal: indeed, they were all individuals, as I afterwards learned, + belonging to respectable and ancient Arab families, who could not + resist the exhortations of their sheik to amuse and entertain his + guests. The manners of these Arabs, their elegant forms, sparkling + black eyes, long black eye-lashes, which increased the beauty of + the eye, adding character to the countenance, seemed to make an + indelible impression on the whole party. The ladies wore robes of + Indian muslin, girdles of gold thread, interwoven with silk of the + Fas manufacture; and their shawls of silk and gold were displayed + in various elegant devices. We were given to understand by Delemy's + captains, on our return to the sheik's castle, that we had been + entertained with extraordinary honours: we certainly were highly + gratified, and my friend Signor Andrea declared he had never seen + better dancing at Venice, his native place. Among the Arabs was an + old man of ninety, who appeared very desirous of an European + establishment at Tomie. He related several anecdotes of his life; + and, among others, the money he had gained, by purchasing goods of + vessels which came forty or fifty years before to Tomie for water, + with which he said he used to exchange gums and almonds, feathers +143 and ivory, for linens, cloths, and spices. I am disposed to think + these vessels were Portuguese; for this coast is but little known + to the English. The ladies having returned home, we prepared to + leave this douar early in the morning; and with no small regret did + I quit this abode of simple and patriarchal hospitality; a pleasing + contrast was here formed to the dissipation and pleasure of + civilised life--to the life of fashionable society, where the + refinements of luxury have multiplied their artificial wants beyond + the proportion of the largest fortunes, and have brought most men + into the class of the necessitous, inducing that churlish habit of + the mind, in which every feeling is considered as a weakness, which + terminates not in self, unlike those generous sympathies of the + Arabs, where every individual seems impelled to seek, as they + express it, (_e dire el khere fie nes_) "to do good to men." The + effect of luxury, dissipation, and extravagance, (where the fortune + is not large enough to support them,) tends to render man selfish + upon principle, and extinguishes all genuine public spirit, that + is, all real regard to the interests and good order of society; + substituting in its place, the vile ambition and rapacity of the + demagogue, which, however, assumes the name of patriotism. This + contrast between the temperance and sobriety of these Bedouin or + primitive Arabs, and the luxury and dissipation of civilised life, + was the more remarkable, when we observed among this rude people + such extraordinary and mutual exercise of benevolence, manly and +144 open presence, honesty and truth in their words and actions.--On + our return to Delemy's castle, in Shtuka, the Prince asked me, what + observations I had made respecting Tomie; I told his Royal Highness + that it was an open roadstead, and not a convenient place for ships + to lie. The Prince appeared pleased at this report; but Delemy had + rendered to Muley Abdsalam so many essential services, that the + latter could not, in courtesy, refuse him any thing. When Delemy + found that my report to the Prince did not realise his + expectations, offers were made to me, supported by every possible + encouragement, to form a commercial establishment at Tomie, which, + as was observed, being advantageously situated for trade, being in + the neighbourhood of the gum, almond, and oil countries, would + offer advantages to the merchants which they could not expect at + Santa Cruz, or Mogodor. Accordingly, I was urged to send to Europe + for ships, with assurances that the duty on all imports, as well as + exports, should be only two per cent. _ad valorem_. A house was + offered to be built for me, according to any plan I might choose to + suggest, free of expense. The people were desirous of having a + commercial establishment in their country, and would have done any + thing to accomplish this object. The extensive connections which I + had throughout Suse, Sahara, and even at Timbuctoo, would have + facilitated my operations; but my connections in England were not + such as to enable me to engage advantageously in this enterprise, I + was obliged, therefore, though reluctantly, to decline it, +145 although, if otherwise situated, I might have realised an + independent fortune in two or three years at Tomie, besides having + a most favourable opportunity of opening a trade with Timbuctoo, + and other territories of Sudan. + + I now felt a strong inclination to visit the port of Messa, which + was reported to have been about two centuries before, a + considerable port of trade, and the capital of Suse, when that + country was a separate kingdom, and the state-prisoners were + banished to Sejin-messa[120], (commonly called Segelmessa in the + maps;) as the state prisoners of Marocco have been from time + immemorial, and are to this day sent to Tafilelt, which territory + lies contiguous to, and west of Sejin-messa. We started for Messa + in the morning, and reached the town in the afternoon. Delemy sent + a strong guard with me for protection, with an injunction to his + friend the _fakeer_ of Messa, to treat me as his friend and guest, + and to do whatever he could to gratify my curiosity in every + respect. The country about Messa is very picturesque, and + productive: the river also abounds with romantic scenery, it has a + sandbar at its entrance to the ocean, which is dry at low water; + but it was once navigable several miles up, as was reported to me. + On the south bank of the river, about two miles from the sea, is a +146 gold-mine, in the territory of a tribe hostile to Delemy, but the + influence of the Fakeer, who is held in reverential awe, enabled us + to examine it without danger. What they told us was the entrance, + was filled with immense large pieces of rock-stone; and I was + informed, that when the Christians left the place, (the Portuguese, + no doubt,) they placed these stones at the entrance of the mine, to + prevent the natives from getting access to it. In the bed of the + river, near the sea, is a mine of silver; the ore is in very small + particles, like lead-coloured sand, intermixed with mud. I sent a + small quantity of this to England to be analysed; and it produced, + as I was informed, just enough to pay the expenses of analysation. + I sent also several specimens of gold and silver ore, which I + collected in various parts of Suse; but I apprehend that sufficient + attention was not paid to them, and they also scarcely paid for the + analysation. I sent also to the Honourable Mr. Greville, brother to + the late Earl of Warwick, a great many basaltick and other stones, + collected in the mountains of Barbary, which that gentleman + considered valuable. After remaining two days at Messa, I returned + to Shtuka. I was again urged to form an establishment at Tomie; + but, limited as my connection was in England, I did not feel + competent to the undertaking, and was obliged, reluctantly indeed, + but finally, to decline it. + + [Footnote 120: Sejin Messa signifies the prison of Messa.] + + The garden of Delemy, where we encamped, is stocked with very fine +147 vines from the mountains of Idautenan,[121] a mountainous and + independent country, a few miles north of Santa Cruz; these grapes + were of the black or purple kind, as big as an ordinary-sized + walnut, and very sweet flavoured, as much superior to the finest + Spanish grapes, as the latter are superior to the natural grown + grapes of England. Large pomegranates, exquisitely sweet, the + grains very large, and the seed small, brought from Terodant; figs, + peaches, apricots, strawberries, oranges, citrons of an enormous + size, water-melons, weighing fifty pounds each, four of which were + a camel load, together with culinary vegetables of every + description. This garden was watered by a well, having what is + called a Persian wheel, worked by a horse, having pots all round + the perpendicular wheel, which, as they turn round, discharge their + contents into a trough, which communicated to the garden, and laid +148 the beds under water. This is the general mode of irrigation + throughout west and south Barbary, as well as in Sudan. + + [Footnote 121: The mountains of Idautenan divide the province + of Haha from Suse: they are exempt from _Ska u Laskor_, that + is, two per cent. on live stock, and 10 per cent. on produce + which is the regular impost on the country. They are a brave + race of Shelluhs, inhabiting a table-land in the mountains that + is a perfect terrestrial paradise. There is but one person in + Europe besides myself who has ever been in this country. Sheik + Muluke, the sheik of Idautenan, is a generous noble-spirited + independent character. When an emperor dies, the sheik sends + Muley Ismael's firman, emancipating the district from all + impost or contribution to the revenue, for some military + service rendered by this district to the ancestor of Ismael, + and the succeeding emperors invariably confirm their + emancipation of Idautenan.] + + The Prince was very anxious to be of service to Delemy, who had + ingratiated himself with the former, by signalising himself in + feats of arms. He had been also a main pillar to the throne, and I + sincerely regretted that the combination of circumstances did not + permit me to accept the liberal and advantageous offers made to me. + + Delemy's renown had spread far to the south, even unto Sudan: from + the latter country he was visited by some people, who wore circular + rings of pure gold, through the cartilage of the nose. The rings + were two or three inches in diameter; and when these people ate, + they turned them up over the nose. Delemy had received a present, + from some king of Sudan, of a very elegant sword, ornamented with + diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, he showed me this sword, which was + evidently manufactured in Europe; he told me, he had been offered + 5000 dollars for it; but he had been informed that it was worth + double that sum. + + I was invited by the Khalif of Suse to visit the immensely + extensive plantations of olives at Ras el Wed, near Terodant, + through which a man may proceed a whole day's journey without + exposure to the sun: also he offered to accompany me to the eastern + part of Shtuka, where the produce of bitter and sweet almonds is + equally abundant, and the plantations equally extensive with those +149 of the olive at Ras el Wed; but I had seen plantations of both on a + smaller scale at Ait-Musie, Fruga, and other parts of this empire; + and therefore the sight would have been no novelty, except in + extent. I understood these plantations were on the same plan and + principle with those I had seen, leaving at certain distances, + square openings, to admit the air, for the better promotion of the + growth and increase of the fruit and produce of the trees. + + The Prince was preparing to depart through Draha, and Bled el + Jereed, to Tafilelt; and we had our audience of leave previous to + his departure. +150 + + LETTER XIX. + + _Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers ventured to + pass, owing to civil War and Contention among the Kabyles.--Moorish + Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of Travellers.--Travelled + with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or + Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land. Bitter Effects of + Revenge and Retaliation on the Happiness of Society.--Origin of + these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with + Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among + the Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic + Honey.--Ceremony at Meals, and Mode of eating.--Travelled all + Night, and slept in the open Air;--Method of avoiding the + Night-dew, as practised by the Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, April 7, 1795. + + The province of Haha was in arms; caffilahs, and travellers could + not pass; but it was expedient that I should go to Mogodor. Men of + property in this country, influenced by a philanthropic spirit, + often expend large sums in digging wells in districts, through + which caffilahs pass, on their road from one country to another. I + knew one of these philanthropists who was at Santa Cruz, and who + had recently benefited the province of Haha, by having dug a well +151 in the Kabyl of Benitamer, a mountainous district in Haha; I sent + for him, and as he was under obligations to me for various services + I had rendered to him and his family, he consented to accompany me + to Mogodor, through the disturbed province of Haha; and he assured + me, that his influence throughout that province was such, that, by + travelling quick, and without any baggage, tents, or incumbrances, + he did not doubt of conducting me safe to Mogodor. I agreed to go + with him, without servants, tents, or bedding, being determined to + reconcile myself, under present circumstances, to the accommodation + the country might afford. We started from Santa Cruz at sun-set; + travelling through Tamaract, to the river Beni Tamur. We continued + our journey till we arrived, at the dawn of day, at the foot of + immense high mountains, called Idiaugomoron. Here my companion and + guide L'Hage Muhamed bu Zurrawel, pointed out to me two castellated + houses, about two miles distant from each other; the + family-quarrels of these people had produced such animosity, that + the inhabitants of neither house could with safety go out, for fear + of being overpowered and killed by those of the other; so that + wherever they went, they were well armed, but dared not go far. + These two families were preparing for a siege, which often happens + in this province. Thus the inhabitants of one house attack another, + and sometimes exterminate or put to death the whole family, with + their retainers. The province of Haha was thus in a state of the +152 most lamentable civil war, originating from these family-quarrels + and domestic feuds. The heathen and anti-christian principle of + revenge and retaliation, is here pursued with such bitter and + obstinate animosity, that I have known instances of men + relinquishing their vocation, to go into a far country to revenge + the blood of a relation after a lapse of twenty years, and pursue + the object of his revenge, for some murder committed in his family, + perhaps forty or fifty years before. + + To a British public, blessed with the benign influences of the + Christian doctrine, it is perhaps necessary that I should elucidate + this retaliative doctrine by an example:--Two men quarrel, and + fight; they draw their kumaeyas (curved daggers about 12 inches + long), which all the people of Haha wear, as well as all the clans + or kabyles of Shelluhs; and if one happens to give his antagonist a + _deadly_ wound, it becomes an indispensable duty in the next of kin + to the person killed or murdered, (though perhaps it can hardly be + termed a murder, as it is not committed, like an European duel, in + cold blood, but in the moment of irritation, and at a period when + the mind is under the influence of anger,) to seek his revenge by + watching an opportunity to kill the survivor in the contest. If the + former should die, his next of kin takes his place, and pursues his + enemy, whose life is never safe; insomuch that, whole kabyles, when + this deadly animosity has reached its acme, have been known to quit +153 their country and emigrate into the Sahara; for when the second + death has been inflicted, it then becomes the incumbent duty of the + next of kin of the deceased to seek his revenge: they call this + justifying blood. This horrible custom has the most lamentable + influence on the happiness of human life; for there will sometimes + be several individuals seeking the life of one man, till this + principle, pervading all the ramifications of relationship and + consanguinity, produces family-broils, hostility, and murder, _ad + infinitum!!_ We stopped at a friend of L'Hage Muhamed, who + presented us with honey and butter, thin shavings of the latter + being let to fall into a bowl of honey for breakfast. This bowl was + served up with flat cakes kneaded without leaven, and baked on hot + stones; these are converted from corn into food in less than half + an hour; they are in shape similar to our crumpets or pancakes. We + were pressed by this Shelluh to stay and dine with him, which being + agreed to, he sent a shepherd to his flock to kill a fat young kid, + which was roasted with a wooden spit, before the vital heat had + subsided, which was very tender, and of an exquisite flavour. The + bread or cakes above described appear to be similar to what the + women kneaded for the guests in the patriarchal ages: indeed, the + customs of these people, as well as those of the Arabs, is + precisely the same as they were in the patriarchal ages, and which + are delineated in the 18th chapter of Genesis, 1st to the 8th + verse. +154 + The honey of this province is very fine: it has an aromatic + flavour, derived from the wild thyme and other aromatic herbs on + which the bees feed. Among these people every meal is preceded with + a washing of their hands with water, which is brought round for the + purpose in a brass pan; each guest dips his right hand in the pan, + and a napkin is presented to wipe them; they then break the bread, + and, after saying grace, which is universally this,--_bismillah_, + i.e. "in the name of God," each guest takes a bit of bread, dips it + in the honey and butter, and eats it. It is reckoned uncourteous or + vulgar to bite the bread; therefore the piece broken off is + sufficient for a mouthful, so that there is nothing that should + offend a delicate appetite in this antique mode of eating. We + remained several hours with our hospitable Shelluh friend; and we + departed, after taking a little sleep, at four o'clock in the + afternoon. Travelling all night, we arrived, at the dawn of day, at + a large house in Idaugourd; the Shelluh to whom it belonged brought + us carpets, and we slept under the wall of his house till the sun + arose. The people of this country prefer sleeping in the open air + to a room, and they have an excellent mode of securing themselves + from the heavy dews of the night, by covering their heads and faces + with a thin woollen hayk or garment, which they throw over their + heads and faces. When I have had the Arabs of Sahara (who have + conducted the caffilahs from Timbuctoo) at my house at Santa Cruz, +155 I gave them a long narrow room, 48 feet long, which was called + (_beet assuda_) the apartment of Sudan, to sleep in; but they + invariably came out at night, and placed their carpets and mats, as + beds, outside of the room, and slept under the balustrade, in + preference to the confinement, as they called it, of a room. + + We rose at sun-rise, passed through the picturesque district of + Idaugourd and the Woolja, and entered Mogodor at four o'clock, P.M. +156 + + + + AN ACCOUNT + OF THE + RISE, PROGRESS, AND DECREASE + OF + THE PLAGUE + _That ravaged Barbary in_ 1799; + FAITHFULLY EXTRACTED FROM + LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE HOUSE OF JAMES JACKSON + AND CO., OR BY JAMES G. JACKSON, + MERCHANTS AT MOGODOR, + TO THEIR CORRESPONDENTS IN EUROPE, DURING THE + EPIDEMY. + + * * * * * + + _Fragments respecting the Plague_. + + When the Emperor's army proceeded from Fas to Marocco in the summer + of 1799, a detachment of which passed by Mogodor, consisting of + 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot, it had the plague with it; so that, + wherever it passed, the plague uniformly appeared three days after + its arrival at the respective douars near which it encamped; those + who died were buried in the tents, and the people of the provinces + knew little about it. + + A large _akkaba_[122], consisting of upwards of 1700 camels, +157 arrived 23d August, 1799, at Akka from Timbuctoo, laden with + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, and gold dust, which had brought also + many slaves; this _akkaba_ had deposited its merchandize at Akka, + till the plague should disappear and the country become healthy; as + the people of that territory, unlike Muhamedans in general, will + hold no communication with the infected, nor will they admit any + one from these parts. + + [Footnote 122: An _akkaba_ is an accumulated caravan.] + + Mogodor, April 31, 1799. + + A violent fever now rages at Fas: some assert it to be the plague, + but that is Moorish report, and little to be depended on; the + European consuls at Tangier, and the Spanish ambassador, who, + having terminated his embassy, has lately left Mequinas, mention it + as an epidemical disorder. + + May 20. The small-pox rages violently throughout this country, and + is of a most virulent kind: its origin is ascribed to the famine + that has of late pervaded this country, and which was produced by + the incredible devastation of the devouring locusts; the dregs of + olives, after the oil had been extracted, has been the only food + that could be procured by many thousands. + + Mogodor, June 14, 1799. + + Various reports reach us daily from _the city of Marocco_, + respecting the epidemy that prevails there, some say 200 die, some +158 say 100, others limit the daily mortality to 50, in a population, + according to the imperial register, of 270,000. + + When any _light_ rain falls, as is the case at Marocco at this + season of the year, the mortality increases. Mr. Francisco Chiappe, + an Italian merchant, is just arrived from Marocco, and is + performing quarantine, by his own desire, at the Emperor's + garden.[123] This gentleman reports, that the greater portion of + the people die of fear, from hunger, or bad food, or from the + small-pox, which latter has raged at Marocco the last month or two; + but he had not been able to ascertain, so various were the reports, + whether it was the plague or not. The emperor's army, a division of + which passed through this country, and encamped at the river, about + two miles south of this port, had the distemper with it. We have + been assured, that the soldiers who died, were immediately buried + within the tents, so that, by this stratagem, the mortality was not + perceived by the public; it was apprehended that, if the mortality + were known, the kabyls, through which the army passed from Mequinas + to Marocco, would not have supplied the troops with provision. This + detachment consisted of 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot. No disorder + has yet appeared here, nor in the adjacent provinces of Shedma and + Haha. + + [Footnote 123: A garden in the province of Haha, five miles + from Mogodor, that was presented to the European merchants by + the late sultan, Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah.] +159 + July 5. We dispatched the Spanish brig yesterday; but she is still + at anchor in the road, waiting for passengers, who fly from hence + with precipitation, from fear of the fever or plague, which + prevails at Fas and at Marocco, and which, it is reported, has made + its appearance at the port of Saffy. We have, however, nothing of + the kind here yet, though we expect we shall not escape the general + scourge. + + July 13. The epidemy in the interior provinces has greatly + augmented, insomuch, that the demand for linen to bury the dead + rapidly increases, and the stock is almost exhausted. This article + has risen to an unprecedented price. All the relatives of L'Hage + Abdallah have fallen victims to the epidemy. This gentleman is + consequently in possession of very considerable property; and (if + he be not also carried off) there will be no fear of our recovering + the debt he owes you. + + We cannot ascertain if the disorder prevails in the outer town, and + in the Jews' quarter, or not; it is certain, however, that eight or + ten die daily of the small-pox, and as many more of fevers and + other disorders, as report proclaims. + + July 25. We are so much engaged in making arrangements against the + epidemy, which is now confidently reported to us to be the plague, + of a most deadly species, that we have only time to refer you to + the captain of the Aurora, to whom we have communicated every +160 particular, and who is extremely anxious to be off for England. The + deaths in this town, which contained a population of 10,000, + according to the imperial register, are from forty to fifty each + day. + + Aug. 1. As the plague now rages violently here, no one thinks of + business or the affairs of this world; but each individual + anticipates that he will be next called away. I send the inclosed, + to be forwarded to Mr. Andrea de Christo, at Amsterdam, to announce + to him the sudden death of his partner, Mr. J. Pacifico, who is + lately dead of the plague. I paid him a visit a few hours before + his death; I met there Don Pedro de Victoria, who was smoking a + segar; he offered me one, and urged me to smoke it. I believe that + the smoke of tobacco is anti-pestilential; this, added to the + precaution of avoiding contact, and inhalation of the breath of the + person infected, appears to be quite sufficient to secure a person + from infection. + + Aug. 1. (Translation of a letter to Mr. Andrea de Christi, merchant + at Amsterdam.) We are sorry that the subject of this letter is so + melancholy. All our domestics have left us; the plague rages so + violently here, that the daily mortality is from sixty to seventy, + among which we are sorry to announce the death of your partner, Mr. + J. Pacifico, who died two days since. + + August 23. The best gum is selling at Akka for six dollars a + quintal: they will not bring it here, fearing the infection. A +161 large Brazil ship has been wrecked off Cape Noon, her cargo, + consisting for the most part of silks and linens, is estimated at + half a million of dollars. The Arabs of Sahara convert the most + beautiful lace into bridles for their horses, by twisting it; and + superior silk stockings are selling at Wedinoon at a dollar per + dozen pair. The plague is rapidly diminishing from 100 deaths to 20 + or 30 per day. Meeman Corcoes is dead, as well as most of the + principal tradesmen of Marocco and Fas; whole families have been + swept off, and there is none left to inherit their property. + Immense droves of horses, mules, and cattle of every description + stray in the plains without owners. + + September 5. The plague continues to decrease; and in another month + we expect to be quite free from it. Signor Conton died this morning + of the epidemy; yesterday afternoon he was apparently quite well, + and paid me a visit. He wished me to shake hands with him, which I + declined, alleging as an excuse, that I would dispense with that + custom till the plague should pass over. He drank a glass of wine, + and appeared cheerful and in good health. I have had fixed in my + dining room, a table that extends from one end to the other. I walk + or sit on one side of the table, my visitors on the other. I am + only cautious to avoid personal contact. All the houses of the + other merchants are closely barricaded or bolted. A fumigating pot +162 of gum sandrac stands at the entrance of my house, continually + burning, which diffuses an agreeable perfume, but is not, as I + apprehend, an antidote to the epidemy. + + October 1. We have to apprise you of the decease of L'Hage Abdallah + El Hareishy, most of whose relations are dead. His brother is the + only one of the family besides himself that remains: he has + inherited considerable property, and thence will be enabled to pay + your bill on him in our favour. + + October 29. The plague appears to have ceased in this town. All the + merchants have opened their houses; but the disorder continues in + the provinces, from whence there is little or no communication with + the town. The kabyls seem to be wholly engaged in burying their + dead, in arranging the affairs of their respective families, in + dividing the property inherited by them, and in administering + consolation to the sick. + + Nov. 11. The plague having committed incalculable ravages + throughout this country, had put a stop to all commerce, which now + begins to revive, in proportion as that calamity subsides. Linens + are selling to great advantage, a cargo would now render 60 per + cent. profit, clear of all charges. + + Nov. 29. The deadly epidemy that has lately visited us, and which +163 at one period carried off above 100 each day, has now confined its + daily mortality to two or three; some days none. When, however, the + Arabs of Shedma, and the Shelluhs of Haha come to town, and bring + the clothes of their deceased relations for sale, the epidemy + increases to three, four, and five a day; then, in three or four + days, it declines again to its former number, one, two, or three. + We have reason to expect, that, before the vessels which we expect + from London shall arrive, the plague will have subsided entirely. + + Mogodor, Dec. 12. 1799. The plague or mortality of this town is now + reduced to three or four weekly. + + OBSERVATION. + + After the plague had subsided, a murrain attacked the cattle, and + great numbers of all kinds died; so that they became reduced in the + same proportion as the race of man had been reduced before. + + _Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson_. + + Gibraltar, 28th Oct. 1799. + + Dear Jackson; + + Within a few days of each other, I received your packets of the +164 21st of September, and 8th instant. Their inclosures are of course + taken care of. Your letter about Soke Assa was received, and sent + home to government ages ago. + + I never could understand the drift of the people either at Tangier + or Mogodor, in asserting that my report of the plague was + political. God knows, that our politics in Barbary are never + remarkable for refinement: they are, if any thing, rather too much + in the John Bull style; and the finesse they gave me such credit + for, was absolutely beyond my comprehension, as I never could + discover what advantage a genuine well-established plague in + Barbary could be to our country. Of its existence I had not the + shadow of doubt, for more than eight months before it was talked + of; and when Doctor Bell was going that way, I begged of him to be + particular in his enquiries, which he, as usual, neglected. When + John Salmon[124] was up, he was _very particular_, and _I_ of + course was laughed at. _Here_ I saw politics, and told all the + gentlemen, that when Salmon[125] arrived at Tariffa, then, and not + till then, we should have the plague in Barbary; and just so it + turned out. + + [Footnote 124: John Salmon was Spanish envoy to the emperor of + Marocco, and was at this time up at Fas, _i.e._ on his + embassy.] + + [Footnote 125: Arrived at Tariffa, and so secured his admission + into Spain on his return from his embassy.] +165 + I am confident, if my advice had been taken, the disease might have + been checked in the beginning; for it was almost three quarters of + a year confined to _old_ Fas. I wrote in the most pressing manner + to Ben Ottoman[126], who never believed me. A few days before he + was seized with it, he wrote me a melancholy letter for advice, and + pathetically lamented that he had not listened to me in time; and I + suppose that even Broussonet[127] believed me when he embarked. I + hope your opinion that it diminishes with you will prove well + founded; but I fear its ravages are only suspended by the great + heats; besides, you should recollect that people cannot die twice, + and with a population so diminished, you must not expect so many as + formerly on your daily dead-list. Mrs. M., who desires her + remembrance to you, is well, but barring plague, would rather be at + Tangier than Gibraltar; so would I. + + Ever truly thine, + + J. MATRA. + + [Footnote 126: The emperor's prime-minister, or _talb cadus_ at + that time.] + + [Footnote 127: Dr. Broussonet, French consul. This gentleman + was intendant of the botanical garden at Montpelier: he, with + another doctor embarked for Europe just as the plague began to + appear at Mogodor in the year 1799.] +166 + _Some Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated + West Barbary in 1799 and 1800, and to the Effects of which the + Author was an eye-witness._ + + From various circumstances and appearances, and from the character + of the epidemical distemper which raged lately in the south of + Spain, there is every reason to suppose, it was similar to that + distemper or plague which depopulated West Barbary; for, whether we + call it by the more reconcileable appellation of the epidemy, or + yellow fever, it was undoubtedly a plague, and a most destructive + one; for wherever it prevailed, it invariably carried off, in a few + months, one-half, or one-third, of the population. + + It does not appear how the plague originated in Fas in the year + 1799.[128] Some persons, who were there at the time it broke out, + have confidently ascribed it to infected merchandise imported into + that place from the East; whilst others, of equal veracity and + judgment, have not scrupled to ascribe it to the locusts which had + infested West Barbary during the seven preceding years, the + destruction of which was followed by the (_jedrie_) small-pox, +167 which pervaded the country, and was generally fatal. The _jedrie_ + is supposed to be the forerunner of this species of epidemy, as + appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, which gives an account of + the same disorder having carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants + of West Barbary about four centuries since. But however this + destructive epidemy originated, its leading features were novel, + and its consequences more dreadful than the common plague of + Turkey, or that of Syria, or Egypt. Let every one freely declare + his own sentiments about it; let him assign any credible account of + its rise, or the causes that introduced so terrible a scene. I + shall relate only what its symptoms were, what it actually was, and + how it terminated, having been an eye-witness of its dreadful + effects, and having seen and visited many who were afflicted, and + who were dying with it. + + [Footnote 128: See the Author's observations, in a letter to + Mr. Willis, in Gentleman's Magazine, February, 1805.] + + In the month of April, 1799, a dreadful plague, of a most + destructive nature, manifested itself in the city of Old Fas, which + soon after communicated itself to the new city. This unparalleled + calamity, carried off one or two the first day, three or four the + second day, six or eight the third day, and increasing + progressively, until the mortality amounted to two in the hundred + of the aggregate population, continuing _with unabating violence_, + ten, fifteen, or twenty days; being of longer duration in old than + in new towns; then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one +168 thousand a day to nine hundred, then to eight hundred, and so on + until it disappeared. Whatever recourse was had to medicine and to + physicians was unavailing; so that such expedients were at length + totally relinquished, and the people, overpowered by this terrible + scourge, lost all hopes of surviving it. + + Whilst it raged in the town of Mogodor, a small village, _Diabet_, + situated about two miles south-east of that place, remained + uninfected, although the communication was open between them: on + the _thirty-fourth day_, however, after its first appearance at + Mogodor, this village was discovered to be infected, and the + disorder raged with great violence, making dreadful havock among + the human species for _twenty-one_ days, carrying off, during that + period, one hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, + the original population of the village, before the plague visited + it; none died after this, and those who were infected, recovered in + the course of a month or two, some losing an eye, or the use of a + leg or an arm. + + Many similar circumstances might be here adduced relative to the + numerous and populous villages dispersed through the extensive + Shelluh province of Haha, all which shared a similar or a worse + fate. Travelling through this province shortly after the plague had + exhausted itself, I saw many uninhabited ruins, which I had before + witnessed as flourishing villages; on making enquiry concerning the +169 population of these dismal remains, I was informed that in one + village, which contained six hundred inhabitants, four persons only + had escaped the ravage. Other villages, which had contained four or + five hundred, had only seven or eight survivors left to relate the + calamities they had suffered. Families which had retired to the + country to avoid the infection, on returning to town, when all + infection had apparently ceased, were generally attacked, and died; + a singular instance of this kind happened at Mogodor, where, after + the mortality had subsided, a corps of troops arrived from the city + of Terodant, in the province of Suse, where the plague had been + raging, and had subsided; these troops, after remaining three days + at Mogodor, were attacked with the disease, and it raged + exclusively among them for about a month, during which it carried + off two-thirds of their original number, one hundred men; during + this interval the other inhabitants of the town were exempt from + the disorder, though these troops were not confined to any + particular quarter, many of them having had apartments in the + houses of the inhabitants of the town. + + The destruction of the human species in the province of Suse was + considerably greater than elsewhere; Terodant, formerly the + metropolis of a kingdom, but now that of Suse, lost, when the + infection was at its acme, about eight hundred each day; the +170 ruined, but still extensive city of Marocco[129], lost one thousand + each day; the populous cities of Old and New Fas diminished in + population twelve or fifteen hundred each day[130], insomuch, that + in these extensive cities, the mortality was so great, that the + living having not time to bury the dead, the bodies were deposited + or thrown altogether into large holes, which, when nearly full, + were covered over with earth. All regulations in matters of + sepulture before observed were now no longer regarded; things + sacred and things prophane had now lost their distinction, and + universal despair pervaded mankind. Young, healthy, and robust + persons of full stamina, were, for the most part, attacked first, + then women and children, and lastly, thin, sickly, emaciated, and + old people. + + [Footnote 129: I have been informed that there are still at + Marocco, apartments wherein the dead were placed; and that + after the whole family was swept away the doors were built up, + and remain so to this day.] + + [Footnote 130: There died, during the whole of the above + periods, in the city of Marocco, 50,000; in Fas, 65,000; in + Mogodor, 4500; and in Saffy, 5000; in all 124,500 souls!] + + After this violent and deadly calamity had subsided, we beheld a + general alteration in the fortunes and circumstances of men; we saw + persons who before the plague were common labourers, now in + possession of thousands, and keeping horses without knowing how to + ride them. Parties of this description were met wherever we went, +171 and the men of family called them in derision _el wuratu_, the + inheritors.[131] Provisions also became extremely cheap and + abundant; the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + there was now no one to own them; and the propensity to plunder, so + notoriously attached to the character of the Arab, as well as to + the Shelluh and Moor, was superseded by a conscientious regard to + justice, originating from a continual apprehension of dissolution, + and that the _el khere_[132], as the plague was now called, was a + judgment of the Omnipotent on the disobedience of man, and that it + behoved every individual to amend his conduct, as a preparation to + his departure for paradise. + + [Footnote 131: _Des gens parvenus_, as the French express it; + or upstarts.] + + [Footnote 132: The good, or benediction.] + + The expense of labour at the same time increased enormously[133], + and never was equality in the human species more conspicuous than + at this time; when corn was to be ground, or bread baked, both were + performed in the houses of the affluent, and prepared by + themselves, for the very few people whom the plague had spared, + were insufficient to administer to the wants of the rich and + independent, and they were accordingly compelled to work for + themselves, performing personally the menial offices of their + respective families. +172 + [Footnote 133: At this time I received from Marocco a caravan + of many camel-loads of bees-wax, in serrons containing 200 lbs. + each; I sent for workmen to place them one upon another, and + they demanded one dollar per serron for so moving them.] + + The country being now depopulated, and much of the territory + without owners, vast tribes of Arabs emigrated from their abodes in + the interior of Sahara, and took possession of the country + contiguous to the river Draha, as well as many districts in Suse; + and, in short, settling themselves, and pitching their tents + wherever they found a fertile country with little or no population. + + The symptoms of this plague varied in different patients, the + variety of age and constitution gave it a like variety of + appearance and character. Those who enjoyed perfect health were + suddenly seized with head-aches and inflammations; the tongue and + throat became of a vivid red, the breath was drawn with difficulty, + and was succeeded by sneezing and hoarseness; when once settled in + the stomach, it excited vomitings of black bile, attended with + excessive torture, weakness, hiccough, and convulsion. Some were + seized with sudden shivering, or delirium, and had a sensation of + such intense inward heat, that they threw off their clothes, and + would have walked about naked in quest of water wherein to plunge + themselves. Cold water was eagerly resorted to by the unwary and + imprudent, and proved fatal to those who indulged in its momentary + relief. Some had one, two, or more buboes, which formed themselves, +173 and became often as large as a walnut, in the course of a day; + others had a similar number of carbuncles; others had both buboes + and carbuncles, which generally appeared in the groin, under the + arm, or near the breast. Those who were affected[134] with a + shivering, having no buboe, carbuncle, spots, or any other exterior + disfiguration, were invariably carried off in less than twenty-four + hours, and the body of the deceased became quickly putrified, so + that it was indispensably necessary to bury it a few hours after + dissolution. It is remarkable, that the birds of the air fled away + from the abode of men, for none were to be seen during this +174 calamitous period; the hyaenas, on the contrary, visited the + cemeteries, and sought the dead bodies to devour them. I + recommended Mr. Baldwin's[135] invaluable remedy of olive oil, + applied according to his directions; several Jews, and some + Muselmin[136], were induced to try it, and I was afterwards visited + by many, to whom I had recommended it, and had given them written + directions in Arabic how to apply it: and I do not know any + instance of its failing when persevered in, even after the + infection had manifested itself. + + [Footnote 134: _M'drob_ is an idiom in the Arabic language + somewhat difficult to render into English; it is well known + that the Muhamedans are predestinarians, and that they believe + in the existence of spirits, devils, &c.; their idea of the + plague is, that it is a good or blessing sent from God to clear + the world of a superfluous population--that no medicine or + precaution can cure or prevent it; that every one who is to be + a victim to it is (_mktube_) recorded in the Book of Fate; that + there are certain Genii who preside over the fate of men, and + who sometimes discover themselves in various forms, having + often legs similar to those of fowls: that these Genii are + armed with arrows: that when a person is attacked by the + plague, which is called in Arabic _l'amer_, or the destiny or + decree, he is shot by one of these Genii, and the sensation of + the invisible wound is similar to that from a musquet-ball; + hence the universal application of _M'drob_ to a person + afflicted with the plague, i.e. he is shot; and if he die, + _ufah ameruh_, his destiny is completed or terminated (in this + world). I scarcely ever yet saw the Muselman who did not affirm + that he had at some time of his life seen these Genii; and they + often appear, they say, in rivers.] + + [Footnote 135: Late British Consul in Egypt.] + + [Footnote 136: Muselman, sing.: Muselmin. plur.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy which made its appearance at Cadiz, + and all along the southern shores of Spain, immediately as the + plague was subsiding in West Barbary, was the same disorder with + the one above described, suffering, after its passage to a + Christian country, some variation, originating from the different + modes of living, and other circumstances; for nothing can be more + opposite than the food, dress, customs, and manners of Muhamedans + and Christians, notwithstanding the approximation of Spain to + Marocco. We have been credibly informed, that it was communicated + originally to Spain, by two infected persons, who went from Tangier + to Estapona, a small village on the opposite shore; who, after + eluding the vigilance of the guards, reached Cadiz. We have also + been assured that it was communicated by some infected persons who +175 landed in Spain, from a vessel that had loaded produce at L'Araiche + in West Barbary. Another account was, that a Spanish privateer, + which had occasion to land its crew for the purpose of procuring + water in some part of West Barbary, caught the infection from + communicating with the natives, and afterwards proceeding to Cadiz, + and spread it in that town and the adjacent country. + + It should be observed, for the information of those who may be + desirous of investigating the nature of this extraordinary + distemper, that, from its character and its symptoms, approximating + to the peculiar plague, which (according to the before mentioned + Arabic record) ravaged and depopulated West Barbary four centuries + since, the Arabs and Moors were of opinion it would subside after + the first year, and not appear again the next, as the Egyptian + plague does; and agreeably to this opinion, it did not re-appear + the second year: neither did St. John's day, or that season, affect + its virulence; but about that period there prevails along the coast + of West Barbary, a trade-wind, which, beginning to blow in the + month of May, continues throughout the months of June, July, and + August, with little intermission. It was apprehended that the + influence of this trade-wind, added to the superstitious opinion of + the plague ceasing on St. John's day, would stop, or at least + sensibly diminish the mortality; but no such thing happened: the + wind did set in, as it invariably does, about St. John's day; the +176 disorder, however, increased at that period, rather than + diminished. Some persons were of opinion, that the infection + maintained its virulence till the last; that the decrease of + mortality did not originate from a decrease of the _miasma_, but + from a decrease of population, and a consequent want of subjects to + prey upon; and this indeed is a plausible idea; but admitting it to + be just, how are we to account for the almost invariable fatality + of the disorder, when at its height, and the comparative innocence + of it when on the decline? for _then_, the chance to those who had + it, was, that they would recover and survive the malady. + + The old men seemed to indulge in a superstitious tradition, that + when this peculiar kind of epidemy attacks a country, it does not + return or continue for three or more years, but disappears + altogether, (after the first year,) and is followed the seventh + year by contagious rheums and expectoration, the violence of which + lasts from three to seven days, but is not fatal. Whether this + opinion be in general founded in truth I cannot determine; but in + the spring of the year 1806, which was the seventh year from the + appearance of the plague at Fas in 1799, a species of influenza + pervaded the whole country; the patient going to bed well, and, on + rising in the morning, a thick phlegm was expectorated, accompanied + by a distressing rheum, or cold in the head, with a cough, which + quickly reduced those affected to extreme weakness, but was seldom + fatal, continuing from three to seven days, with more or less + violence, and then gradually disappearing. +177 + During the plague at Mogodor, the European merchants shut + themselves up in their respective houses, as is the practice in the + Levant; I did not take this precaution, but occasionally rode out + to take exercise on horseback. Riding one day out of the town, I + met the Governor's brother, who asked me where I was going, when + every other European was shut up? "To the garden," I + answered.--"And are you not aware that the garden and the adjacent + country is full of (_Jinune_) departed souls, who are busy in + smiting with the plague every one they meet?" I could not help + smiling, but told him, that I trusted to God only, who would not + allow any of the _Jinune_ to smite me unless it were his sovereign + will, and that if it were, he could effect it without the agency of + _Jinune_. On my return to town in the evening, the beach, from the + town-gate to the sanctuary of Seedi,[137] Mogodole was covered with + biers. My daily observations convinced me that the epidemy was not + caught by approach, unless that approach was accompanied by an + inhaling of the breath, or by touching the infected person; I + therefore had a separation made across the gallery, inside of my + house, between the kitchen and dining parlour, of the width of + three feet, which is sufficiently wide to prevent the inhaling the +178 breath of a person. From this partition or table of separation I + took the dishes, and after dinner returned them to the same place, + suffering none of the servants to come near me; and in the + accounting-house, I had a partition made to prevent the too near + approach of any person who might call on business; and this + precaution I firmly believe to be all that is necessary, added to + that of receiving money through vinegar, and taking care not to + touch or smell infectious substances. + + [Footnote 137: A sanctuary a mile south-east of the town of + Mogodor, from whence, the town receives its name.] + + Fear had an extraordinary effect in disposing the body to receive + the infection; and those who were subject thereto, invariably + caught the malady, which was for the most part fatal. At the + breaking out of the plague at Mogodor, there were two medical men, + an Italian and a Frenchman, the latter, a man of science, a great + botanist, and of an acute discrimination; they, however, did not + remain, but took the first opportunity of leaving the place for + Teneriffe, so that the few Europeans had no expectation of any + medical assistance except that of the natives. Plaisters of gum + ammoniac, and the juice of the leaves of the _opuntia_, or _kermuse + ensarrah_, _i.e._ prickly pear, were universally applied to the + carbuncles, as well as to the buboes, which quickly brought them to + suppuration: many of the people of property took copious draughts + of coffee and Peruvian bark. The _Vinaigre de quatre voleurs_, was +179 used by many, also camphor, smoking tobacco, or fumigations of gum + Sandrac; straw was also burned by some, who were of opinion, that + any thing which produced abundance of smoke, was sufficient to + purify the air of pestilential effluvia. + + During the existence of the plague, I had been in the chambers of + men on their death-bed: I had had Europeans at my table, who were + infected, as well as Moors, who actually had buboes on them; I took + no other precaution than that of separation, carefully avoiding to + touch the hand, or inhale the breath; and, notwithstanding what may + have been said, I am decidedly of opinion that the plague, at least + this peculiar species of it, is not produced by any infectious + principle in the atmosphere, but caught solely by touching infected + substances, or inhaling the breath of those who are diseased; and + that it must not be confounded with the common plague of Egypt, or + Constantinople, being a malady of a much more desperate and + destructive kind. It has been said, by persons who have discussed + the nature and character of the plague, that the cultivation of a + country, the draining of the lands, and other agricultural + improvements, tend to eradicate or diminish it; but, at the same + time, we have seen countries depopulated where there was no morass, + or stagnate water for many days' journey, nor even a tree to impede + the current of air, or a town, nor any thing but encampments of + Arabs, who procured water from wells of a great depth, and +180 inhabited plains so extensive and uniform, that they resemble the + sea, and are so similar in appearance after, as well as before + sun-rise, that if the eye could abstract itself from the spot + immediately surrounding the spectator, it could not be ascertained + whether it were sea or land. + + I shall now subjoin a few cases for the further elucidation of this + distemper, hoping that the medical reader will pardon any + inaccuracy originating from my not being a professional man. + + Case I.--One afternoon, I went into the kitchen, and saw the cook + making the bread; he appeared in good health and spirits; I + afterwards went into the adjoining parlour, and took up a book to + read; in half an hour the same man came to the door of the room, + with his eyes starting from his head, and his bed-clothes, &c. in + his hands, saying, "open the gate for me, for I am (_m'dorb_) + smitten." I was astonished at the sudden transition, and desired + him to go out, and I would follow and shut the gate. The next + morning he sent his wife out on an errand, and got out of bed, and + came to the gate half-dressed, saying that he was quite recovered, + and desired I would let him in. I did not, however, think it safe + to admit him, but told him to go back to his house for a few days, + until he should be able to ascertain that he was quite well; he + accordingly returned to his apartments, but expired that evening, + and before day-break his body was in such a state, that his feet +181 were actually putrified. His wife, by attending on him, caught the + infection, having a carbuncle, and also buboes, and was confined + two months before she recovered. + + Case II.--L'Hage Hamed O Bryhim, the old governor of Mogodor, had + twelve or more children, and four wives, who were all attacked, and + died (except only one young wife); he attended them successively to + the grave, and notwithstanding that he assisted in performing the + religious ceremony of washing the body, he never himself caught the + infection; he lived some years afterwards, and out of the whole + household, consisting of wives, concubines, children, and slaves, + he had but one person left, which was the before-mentioned young + wife: this lady, however, had received the infection, and was + confined some time before she recovered. + + Case. III.--Hamed ben A---- was smitten with the plague, which he + compared to the sensation of two musket balls fired at him, one in + each thigh; a giddiness and delirium succeeded, and immediately + afterwards a green vomiting, and he fell senseless to the ground; a + short time afterwards, on the two places where he had felt as if + shot, biles or buboes formed, and on suppurating, discharged a + foetid black pus; a (_jimmera_) carbuncle on the joint of the arm + near the elbow was full of thin ichor, contained in an elevated + skin, surrounded by a burning red colour; after three months' + confinement, being reduced to a skeleton, the disorder appeared to +182 have exhausted itself, and he began to recover his strength, which + in another month was fully reestablished. It was an observation + founded on daily experience, during the prevalence of this + disorder, that those who were attacked with a nausea at the + stomach, and a subsequent vomiting of green or yellow bile, + recovered after suffering in various degrees, and that those who + were affected with giddiness, or delirium, followed by a discharge + or vomiting of black bile, invariably died after lingering one, + two, or three days, their bodies being covered with small black + spots similar to grains of gun-powder; in this state, however, they + possessed their intellects, and spoke rationally till their + dissolution. + + When the constitution was not disposed, or had not vigour enough to + throw the miasma to the surface in the form of biles, buboes, + carbuncles, or blackish spots, the virulence is supposed to have + operated inwardly, or on the vital parts, and the patient died in + less than twenty-four hours, without any exterior disfiguration. + + Case IV.--It was reported that the Sultan had the plague twice + during the season, as many others had; so that the idea of its + attacking like the small-pox, a person but once in his life, is + refuted: the Sultan was cured by large doses of Peruvian bark + frequently repeated, and it was said that he found such infinite + benefit from it, that he advised his brothers never to travel + without having a good supply. The Emperor, since the plague, always + has by him a sufficient quantity of quill bark to supply his + emergency. +183 + Case V.--H.L. was smitten with the plague, which affected him by a + pain similar to that of a long needle (as he expressed himself) + repeatedly plunged into his groin. In an hour or two afterwards, a + (_jimmera_) carbuncle appeared in the groin, which continued + enlarging three days, at the expiration of which period he could + neither support the pain, nor conceal his sensations; he laid + himself down on a couch; an Arabian doctor, applied to the + carbuncles the testicles of a ram cut in half, whilst the vital + warmth was still in them; the carbuncle on the third day was + encreased to the size of a small orange; the before-mentioned + remedy was daily applied during thirty days, after which he + resorted to cataplasms of the juice of the (_opuntia_) prickly + pear-tree, (_feshook_) gum ammoniac, and (_zite el aud_) oil of + olives, of each one-third; this was intended to promote + suppuration, which was soon effected; there remained after the + suppuration a large vacuity, which was daily filled with fine hemp + dipped in honey; by means of this application the wound filled up, + and the whole was well in thirty-nine days. + + Case VI.--El H--t--e, a trading Jew of Mogodor, was sorely + afflicted; he called upon me, and requested some remedy; I advised + him to use oil of olives, and having Mr. Baldwin's mode of +184 administering it[138], I transcribed it in the Arabic language, and + gave it to him; he followed the prescription, and assured me, about + six weeks afterwards, that (with the blessing of God) he had + preserved his life by that remedy only; he said, that after having + been anointed with oil, his skin became harsh and dry like the + scales of a fish, but that in half an hour more, a profuse + perspiration came on, and continued for another half hour, after + which he experienced relief: this he repeated forty days, when, he + was quite recovered. + + [Footnote 138: Mr. Baldwin observed, that, whilst the plague + ravaged Egypt, the dealers in oil were not affected with the + epidemy; and he accordingly recommended people to anoint + themselves with oil every day as a remedy.] + + Case VII.--Moh--m'd ben A---- fell suddenly down in the street; he + was conveyed home; three carbuncles and five buboes appeared soon + after in his groin, under the joint of his knee, and arm-pits, and + inside the elbow; he died in three hours after the attack. + + Case VIII.--L.R. was suddenly smitten with this dreadful calamity, + whilst looking over some Marocco leather; he fell instantaneously; + afterwards, when he had recovered his senses, he described the + sensation as that of the pricking of needles, at every part wherein + the carbuncles afterwards appeared: he died the same day in + defiance of medicine. + + Case IX.--Mr. Pacifico, a merchant, was attacked, and felt a + pricking pain down the inside of the thick part of the thigh, near + the sinews; he was obliged to go to bed. I visited him the next + day, and was going to approach him, but he exclaimed, "Do not come +185 near for although I know I have not the prevailing distemper, yet + your friends, if you touch me, may persuade you otherwise, and that + might alarm you; I shall, I hope, be well in a few days." I took + the hint of Don Pedro de Victoria, a Spanish gentleman, who was in + the room, who, offering me a sagar, I smoked it, and then departed; + the next day the patient died. He was attended during his illness + by the philanthropic Monsieur Soubremont, who did not stir from his + bed-side till he expired; but after exposing himself in this + manner, escaped the infection, which proceeded, as he thought, from + his constantly having a pipe in his mouth. + + Case X.--Two of the principal Jews of the town giving themselves + up, and having no hope, were willing to employ the remainder of + their lives in affording assistance to the dying and the dead, by + washing the bodies and interring them; this business they performed + during thirty or forty days, during all which time they were not + attacked: when the plague had nearly subsided, and they began again + to cherish hopes of surviving the calamity, they were both smitten, + but after a few days' illness recovered, and are now living. + + From this last case, as well as from many others similar, but too + numerous here to recapitulate, it appears that the human + constitution requires a certain miasma, to prepare it to receive + the pestilential infection. + + _General Observation._--When the carbuncles or buboes appeared to +186 have a blackish rim round their base, the case of that patient was + desperate, and invariably fatal. Sometimes the whole body was + covered with black spots like partridge-shot; such patients always + fell victims to the disorder, and those who felt the blow + internally, showing no external disfiguration, seldom survived more + than a few hours. + + The plague appears to visit this country about once in every twenty + years[139]: the last visitation was in 1799 and 1800, being more + fatal than any ever before known. + + [Footnote 139: This opinion is confirmed by the plague, being + now (1820) in Marocco just twenty years since the last plague. + 65,000 persons have been lately carried off by this disease in + the cities of Old and New Fas.] + + * * * * * + + _Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in + West Barbary, and which was imported from Egypt; communicated by + the Author to the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, + Science, and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great + Britain, No, 15, published in October, 1819._ + + His Majesty's ship, which was lying in the port of Alexandria, when + Colonel Fitzclarence passed through Egypt, from India, on his way + to England, convoyed to Tangier a vessel which had on board two of + the sons of Muley Soliman, emperor of Marocco; on their arrival at + Tangier, the princes immediately landed and proceeded to their + father at Fas; but it was discovered by the governor or alkaid of +187 Tangier, that during the passage some persons had died; and + accordingly the alkaid would not suffer any of the passengers to + land, except the princes, until he should have received orders from + the Emperor how to act; he accordingly wrote to Fas, for the + imperial orders, and in the mean time the princes arrived, and + presented themselves to the emperor: the latter wrote to the + alkaid, that as the princes had been suffered to land, it would be + unjust to prohibit the other passengers from coming ashore also. He + therefore ordered the alkaid to suffer all the passengers, together + with their baggage, to be landed, and soon afterwards the plague + appeared at Fas, and at Tangier. Thus the contagion which is now + ravaging West Barbary was imported from Egypt. It does not appear + that the mortality is, or has been, during its acme at Fas, any + thing comparable to what it was during the plague that ravaged this + country in 1799,[140] and which carried off more than two-thirds of + the population of the empire. + + [Footnote 140: It has been asserted by a physician who has + lately written, _Observations on contagion, as it relates to + the plague and other epidemical diseases_, reviewed in article + 20th of the _British Review_, and _London Critical Journal_, + published in May last, that I have asserted that the deaths + during the prevalence of that disorder in West Barbary in 1799, + amounted to 124,500; but on a reference to my account of + Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c., 2d or 3d edition, note, page 174, it + will appear, that this mortality was that of two cities, and + two sea-ports only, viz., the cities of Fas and Marocco, and + the ports of Saffy and Mogodor; the mortality, however, was + equally great in the imperial cities of Mequinas and Terodant, + and in the sea-port towns of Tetuan, Tangier, Arzilla, + L'Araich, Salee, Rabat, Dar el Bieda, Azamore, Mazagan, and + Santa Cruz, or Agadeer; and considerably greater among the + populous and numerous encampments of the Arabs, throughout the + various provinces of the empire; not to mention the incredible + mortality in the castles, towns, and other walled habitations + of the Shelluh province of Haha, the first province, travelling + from the shores of the Mediterranean, where the people live in + walled habitations, the seaports excepted.] +188 + Whence proceeds this difference? Is it a different species of + plague, and not so deadly a contagion? Or is it because the remedy + of _olive_ oil, applied and recommended generally by me, and by + some other Europeans during the plague of 1799, is now made public + and generally administered? This is an inquiry well deserving the + attention of scientific men. And His Majesty's ministers might + procure the information from the British consul at Tangier, or from + the governor of Gibraltar: perhaps the truth is, that the contagion + is of a more mild character. + + With regard to the remedy of olive oil applied[141] internally, I + should, myself, be disposed to doubt its efficacy unless M. Colaco, +189 the Portuguese consul at L'Araich, is competent to declare, _from + his own knowledge and experience_, that this remedy has been + administered effectually by him to persons having the plague, who + did not _also use the friction with oil_. I say, till this can be + ascertained, I think the remedy of oil applied _externally_, should + not be forsaken; as _it has been proved during the plague in + Africa, in 1799, to be infallible_, and therefore indispensable to + people whose vocation may lead them to associate with, or to touch + or bury the infected. For the rest, such persons as are not + compelled to associate with the infected, may effectually avoid the + contagion, however violent and deadly it may be, by avoiding + contact. I am so perfectly convinced of this fact, from the + experience and observation I have made during my residence at + Mogodor, whilst the plague raged there in 1799, that I would not + object to go to any country, although it were rotten with the + plague, provided my going would benefit mankind, or serve any + useful purpose; and I would use no fumigation, or any other remedy + but what I actually used at Mogodor in 1799. I am so convinced from + my own repeated and daily experience, that the most deadly plague + is as easy to be avoided BY STRICTLY ADHERING TO THE PRINCIPLE OF + AVOIDING PERSONAL CONTACT AND INHALATION, AND THE CONTACT OF + INFECTIOUS SUBSTANCES, that I would ride or walk through the most +190 populous and deeply-infected city, as I have done before, without + any other precaution than that of a segar in my mouth, when, by + avoiding contact and inhalation, I should most assuredly be free + from the danger of infection!! + + [Footnote 141: Mr. Colaco, having lately observed that oil was + used externally to anoint the body, as a preservative against + the plague; conceived the idea of administering this simple + remedy _internally_ to persons already infected; numerous + experiments were made by this gentleman, who administered from + four to eight oz. olive oil at a dose; and out of 300 + individuals already infected, who resorted to this remedy, only + twelve died.] + + When these precautions are strictly observed, I maintain, (in + opposition to all the theoretical dogmas that have lately been + propagated) that there is no more danger of infection with the + plague, than there is of infection from any common cold or rheum. + +191 + + JOURNEY FROM TANGIER TO RABAT + _THROUGH THE PLAINS OF SEBOO_, + + + + + To accompany Dr. Bell, in Company with the Prince Muley Teib and an + Army of Cavalry. + + _Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. + Bell.--Description of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of + M'sharrah Rummellah, an incomparable fine and productive + Country.--The Cavalry of the Amorites,--their unique Observations + on Dr. Bell.--their mean Opinion of his Art, because he could not + cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on Rafts of inflated + Skins.--Spacious Tent of Goat's Hair erected for the Sheik, and + appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the + magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian + Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these + Plains.--Matamores, what they are.--Mode of Reaping.--The Prince + presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his + Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and + the Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor._ + + I happened to be at Tangier when the (_shereef_) prince Muley Teib + was collecting an army to join that of the emperor, which was on + the banks of the river Morbeya, (see the map of West Barbary, p. + 55,) in Shawiya. Doctor Bell, who had then recently arrived from + Gibraltar, to attend the prince, whose lungs were affected, was to +192 accompany his Royal Highness; and, as I had nothing to detain me in + Tangier, and was going to Rabat, I engaged to accompany the doctor, + and offered to officiate as interpreter between him and the prince + till our arrival at Rabat; after which I should leave him, and + proceed to Mogodor. The Doctor readily assented to my proposition, + because it is considered more respectable in this country, where + the Jews are reprobated and despised, to have for an interpreter a + Christian; the prince also, when he heard that I had thus offered + my services, expressed himself much gratified, and I received a + very polite message from him. The next day we started from Tangier, + in the morning at ten o'clock. The army halted east of Arzilla, in + the plains: the prince sat down under the shade of a tree to + dinner, Dr. Bell and myself under another tree, about 100 yards + distant. The Prince sent us a capon stewed _a-la-mauresque_ with + saffron, the exquisite flavour of which proved that he had an + excellent cook with him. We departed in half an hour; and the tents + were pitched at sunset, in a campaign country, between Arzilla and + L'Araich. The Ait-Amor or Amorites who formed a part of this army, + a wild, uncontrolled race of Berebbers, saw the attention that was + paid by the shereef to the doctor, and after dinner they were + determined to see what sort of a fellow this doctor was, whom the + shereef treated so familiarly. They galloped their high-mettled + horses up to the doctor; and stopping short to examine him, made a +193 reflection on him and returned. The doctor observed the wild and + tattered appearance of these excellent horsemen. There was nothing + evil-minded in them; but their observations were remarkable. The + Doctor wore powder, a custom unknown in this country: one party + would say, "He has got lime in his head to kill the vermin;" + another would observe that "He was old or grey-headed." The Doctor + was fond of his bottle, and some said _skurren bel akkaran_, i.e. + "The[142] son of a cuckold is drunk." Others would bawl out, _Wa + Tebeeb washka't dowie elmoot_, i.e. "O, doctor, canst thou cure + death?" To which he replied, "No."--"Then," returned they, "thou + art no doctor!" On the following morning at sun-rise we proceeded, + and reached L'Araich at twelve o'clock; we did not enter the town, + but dined in the plains, and proceeding afterwards out of the main + road, we directed our course south-east, till we reached a most + beautiful and very extensive plain, called M'sharrah Rummellah. + This plain was covered with numerous and immense flocks of sheep + and horned cattle, and is many times more extensive than Salisbury + plain. We pitched our tents near a very extensive and populous + douar of Arabs. We departed the next morning at sun-rise, and + reached the plains of the river Seboo about two o'clock in the + afternoon; which plains are a continuation of those of M'sharrah +194 Rummellah; the army were engaged the remaining part of the day and + the whole night crossing the river Seboo, on rafts made of inflated + cow-hides, covered with planks and straw. The river is here about + twenty yards wide, but very deep and rapid; the Arabs had a long + and spacious sheik's tent pitched for the reception of the prince, + about forty feet long and fifteen wide, somewhat similar to the + hull of a ship reversed, having the long side open to the sun. + These tents are the palace of the sheik of the Arabs, and are + erected on great occasions only, such as that of the emperor, or a + prince passing through their territory. The plains of M'sharrah + Rummellah are one hundred and fifty British miles in circumference, + perfectly flat, without a stone, a tree, a hedge, or a ditch; with + the majestic river Seboo passing through the centre of the plain. + The soil of this territory, which, in the hands of Europeans, might + be made a terrestrial paradise, is a rich, productive, decomposed + vegetable earth, which extends, as we perceived from various + chasms, to the depth of several feet from the surface. It produces + incredible quantities of the finest wheat, of a hard grain, very + large and long, clear as amber, and yielding a prodigious increase + of flour, so that a saa of wheat[143] produces a saa and a sixth of +195 flour. The prince, Muley Teeb, seated on an eminence in this + spacious tent, resembled what we should imagine the patriarch + Abraham to have been, entertaining his friends; or Saul upon his + throne, with his javelin in his hand. He had twelve lanciers, six + on each side of him in a row, standing with their lances erect, the + Prince having one in his hand. It appears that this is the Arabian + etiquette; and the Arabs appeared much gratified that the prince + had personified their sheik, with all the paraphernalia of royalty. + His Royal Highness whose mind seemed moved with the beauty of this + country, sent for the Doctor and myself, and asked us if we had + ever seen such a country before. We frankly confessed we had not. + The prince smiled, and said, that the (_sehell_) plain we were on, + although extremely populous, and full of douars, could grow + seventeen times as much corn as the inhabitants could consume; that + there was then corn enough in the matamores[144] of this plain, to + supply (_El garb kamel_) the whole of El garb, i.e. the country + north of the river Morbeya.[145] + + [Footnote 142: Intoxication is a damnable vice with these + people; and when they remark drunkenness, they invariably add + an opprobrium to the observation.] + + [Footnote 143: A saa of wheat is little less than two + Winchester bushels. The wheat is very heavy, and this measure + weighs 100 lb., equal to 119 lb. English.] + + [Footnote 144: The matamores are subterraneous depositories for + corn, in which they preserve the wheat sound and good thirty + years; but when a matamore is once opened, it is expedient to + consume the corn immediately, otherwise it contracts what is + called the matamore twang. These depositories are indispensable + in countries exposed to drought, scarcity, or locusts, and + _should be adopted in our colony of South Africa_. The art of + constructing them is very peculiar, and I devoted some time in + learning it.] + + [Footnote 145: See the map of West Barbary.] +196 + We took our leave of the Prince, who appeared much gratified with + the hospitable entertainment of the Arabs, and with their + patriarchal style of living, and sent us an enormous dish of + cuscasoe, coloured with saffron. + + Encamped in the centre of this plain, when the sun had set, and the + twilight came on, we could have imagined ourselves in the midst of + the ocean. Not a cloud was in the sky, nor a hill on the land, to + intercept the uniformity of the horizon; the moon shone so bright, + that we could read by its light, and the universal novelty of the + scene resembled enchantment. + + On this rich land they use no dung: they reap the corn about a foot + from the ground, and burn the stubble. The produce is greater even + than that of the _new-dyke land_, on the banks of the river Ems, in + North Holland. The allotments of land are ascertained by a large + stone, placed at each corner of the square, when the reapers reach + these stones, they desist from proceeding or reaping the corn of + other proprietors. We rose early in the morning, and found the air + of this terrestrial paradise strongly perfumed with millions of + odoriferous flowers, that were growing spontaneously throughout the + plains. Walking with Dr. Bell through the Prince's camp, we saw a + beautiful grey horse. The doctor admired it. I recommended him to + ask the Prince for it, he was not acquainted with the customs of +197 this country, and ridiculed my observation. "If you wish to have + that horse, Doctor," said I, "I will engage that the Prince will + get it for you. I represented immediately to His Royal Highness, + that the Doctor had taken a liking to the horse, and would wish to + buy it. Not buy it," said the Prince; "he will receive it as a + present from me. Tell him, he deserves seven horses for the benefit + he has done me: all doctors that I have heretofore had have taken + twenty-four hours to give me ease; he relieves me in one. Tell him + so," said the prince, "and that he (_massab ala genibuna_) is in + the number of my dearest friends. (_e jeek elkhere attibib u + asselem_), Good be with you, doctor, and peace be with you." Thus + ended the negociation for the horse. I found afterwards that it + belonged to a sheik of the Arab province of Beni Hassen, who + regretted parting with it, but the Prince gave him the value of it, + and much courtesy withal. We struck our tents next morning at + eleven o'clock, and, travelling southward, the Prince received an + express from the Emperor to join his imperial army forthwith: + accordingly the Prince and his doctor departed south-east, and I + took leave of them, and pursued my journey to Rabat. + +198 + + OF + THE EXCAVATED RESIDENCES + OF THE + INHABITANTS OF ATLAS: + THE + _ACEPHALI, HEL SHUAL, AND HEL ELKILLEB:_ + + + + + _The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System + of solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous + Company; beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to + Discovery, the Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, + indispensable to the Conversion of the native Negroes to + Christianity._ + + The inhabitants of the snowy or upper regions of the Atlas live, + during the months of November, December, January, February, and + half of March, in caves or excavations in the mountains; the snow + then disappears, and they begin to cultivate the earth. + + I have repeatedly heard reports of the (_Helel Killeb_,[146]) + dog-faced race; of the (_Hel Shual_,) tailed race; and of the race +199 having one eye,[147] and that in the breast. It is extremely + difficult to ascertain the origin of these reports, which are so + involved in metaphor that the signification is not intelligible to + Europeans; their existence is not doubted, however, in Africa. Of + the _Hel El Killeb_ some ignorant people affirm that the Almighty + transformed one of the tribes of the Jews into these people, and + that these are their descendants; others report them to be a + mongrel breed, between the human and ape species; their strength is + said to be very great. The Africans assert with considerable + confidence, which is corroborated, that the Hel Shual have a tail + half a cubit long; that they inhabit a district in the Desert at an + immense distance south-east of Marocco; that the Hel El Killeb[148] +200 are in a similar direction; that the latter are diminutive, being + about two or three cubits[149] in height; that they exclaim _bak, + bak, bak_, and that they have a few articulate sounds, which they + mutually understand among themselves; that they are extremely swift + of foot, and run as fast as horses. The Arimaspi of Herodotus are + called by the Arabs _Hel Ferdie_, these are represented by the + Arabs of the Desert as living at the foot of the lofty mountains of + the Moon, near Abyssinia: the male and female are equally without + hair on their head, having large chins and nostrils, like the ape + species; they are said to have a language of their own; their + costume is a _jelabea_,[150] and a belt, without shoes or head + dress; their country is said to abound in gold. It is "a + consummation devoutly to be wished," that our knowledge of Africa + should increase so as to enable us to unravel the mystery of these + doubtful reports, to ascertain the degree of credit that is due to + these mysterious traditions. These desiderata, however, can hardly +201 be expected, whilst the present injudicious plans for the discovery + of Africa are persevered in. We must, if we desire to discover + effectually the hidden recesses and reported wonders of this + continent, adopt plans and schemes very different from any that + have hitherto been suggested; we must adopt _a grand system upon an + extensive scale_, a system directed and moved by a person competent + to so great an undertaking. The head or director of such an + expedition should be master of the general travelling and + trafficking language of Africa, the modern Arabic: he should + moreover be acquainted with the character of the people, their + habits, modes of life, religious prejudices, and fanaticism. A + grand plan, thus directed, could hardly fail to secure the command + of the commerce of Africa to Great Britain. Then the discovery of + the inmost recesses would follow the path of commerce, and that + continent, which has baffled the researches of the moderns as well + as of the ancients, would lay open its treasures to modern Europe, + and civilisation would be the natural result. Then would be the + period to attempt the conversion of the Negroes to Christianity; + and the standard of peace and good will towards men might be + successfully planted on the banks of the _Nile El Kabeer_, or _Nile + Assudan_, the Great Nile, or Nile of Sudan, or Nigritia, commonly + called the Niger. + + [Footnote 146: Apollonius Rhodius calls these people [Greek: + emikuges] or half-dogs.] + + [Footnote 147: The ingenious author of Philosophic Researches + concerning the Americans, speaking of a race which appear to + resemble the Acephali of Herodotus, or the race of men having + one eye, and that in their chest, says, "There is in Canibar a + race of savages who have hardly any neck, and whose shoulders + reach up to their ears. This monstrous appearance is + artificial, and to give it to their children they put enormous + weights upon their heads, so as to make the vertebrae of the + neck enter, if we may so say, the channel bone, (clavicule.) + These barbarians, from a distance, seem to have their mouth in + the breast; and might well enough, in ignorant and enthusiastic + travellers, serve to revive the fable of the Acephali, or men + without heads." (See Larcher's Notes on Herodotus's Melpomene, + cap. 191.)--Saint Augustin, whose veracity is scarcely to be + doubted, declared in his thirty-third sermon, intituled _"A ses + Freres dans le Desert"--Avoir vu en Ethiopie des hommes et des + femmes sans tete avec des grands yeux sur le poitrine._] + + [Footnote 148: We have heard of a pig-faced lady; if there is + such a person, there might also be a pig-faced gentleman, and + these might generate a pig-faced race; and if a pig-faced race, + why not a dog-faced race?] + + [Footnote 149: Seven Cubits make four English yards.] + + [Footnote 150: The best description I can give of a _jelabea_ + is this: Take a large sack and cut a hole in the bottom, big + enough to admit the head; then cut the two bottom corners off + to admit the arms: this garment will then resemble the + _jelabea_.] + +202 + + CAUTIONS + TO BE USED IN TRAVELLING. + + + + + _Danger of travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself + accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling + between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of + Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of living among the Arabs; Food, + Clothing, domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs + calculated by the Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are + good Figures, and have personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; + poetical Geniuses; Dancing and Amusements; Musical Instruments; + their Manners are courteous_. + + Travellers in West and South Barbary should never be out after + sun-set: it is not safe to travel in many parts of the country + during the night. The emperor holds himself accountable for thefts + committed between the rising and the setting sun; so that, if a + traveller be robbed of property, the value should be ascertained, + and an application being made to the bashaw of the province where + the robbery was committed it will be restored forthwith; but if + there be any demur, an application should be made to the Emperor, + personally, if possible, but if not, by letter; and the district is + immediately ordered to pay double the loss, one half to the person + robbed, and the other half to the Imperial treasury. +203 + These robberies, however, rarely occur; for the bashaws of the + provinces and the alkaids of the douars feel it a duty incumbent on + them to protect all travellers and strangers; so that they would, + in the event of a robbery being committed, expose themselves to a + severe reprimand from the emperor, and an intimation that they + were, by suffering such irregularity, incompetent to their + situation, and would be liable to a heavy fine, or a discharge from + their office, for _neglect of vigilance_, which, in this country, + is considered _very reprehensible_. + + Travelling through the province of Suse, I once witnessed the + emigration of an extensive douar of Arabs, amounting to about 200 + families. They were just leaving their habitation, where they had + been encamped only a few months: it was a fine grazing country; the + camels, horses, mules, asses, oxen and cows, were all laden with + the tents and baggage of these wanderers. On enquiring the cause of + this emigration, I was told that the inhabitants were infested with + musquitoes and fleas to such a degree, that they had all + unanimously resolved to emigrate to another place, which they had + fixed upon, and that they would reach it by night. These wandering + Arabs, without any fixed habitation, are of a restless, + ungovernable spirit: they never cultivate the earth, as do the + Arabs of the plains of Marocco, but live, for the most part, on + camels' milk, occasionally killing a camel or a goat for food; +204 grazing their camels in the adjacent country: they live in the true + Patriarchal style, and seek the means of supplying all their wants + within themselves. To effect this purpose, they barter a few of + their camels for wool, and thus supply themselves with that article + for clothing, which is made in every (_keyma_) Arab tent, by the + women, at their own respective looms; each female being the + manufacturer for her own family. The cloth is wove in pieces of + seven cubits long and about two and a half broad, of the natural + colour of the wool: these pieces of cloth are afterwards converted + into cloaks, mantles, and tunics. Those who choose to indulge in + the luxury of dress, by wearing linen, or turbans, send a few + goat-skins, collected from the goats that have served them + occasionally for food, to Mogodor, or Marocco, or barter them with + some Jews for linen or shoes, and thus supply all their wants; so + that their resources considerably exceed their wants, for some of + them have several thousand camels which cost them nothing. These + animals browse on the bushes in the environs of their habitations, + and are continually increasing and multiplying. They never kill any + animal for food until full grown: this custom, from which the Arab + never departs, is manifestly calculated to increase property, + which, being invested in camels, is transportable, without trouble + or expense, wherever they choose. + + The Arabs are gay and cheerful; the brow of care is rarely seen +205 among them. The more children they have, the greater the blessing. + They turn their hands in early youth to some useful purpose: so + soon as they can walk they attend the camels, or are put to some + domestic occupation; thus forming a useful link in the chain of + their patriarchal society. The independence of these Arabs is + depicted in their physiognomy; they are oppressed by no cankering + care, no anxiety, no anticipation of distress. The food and + clothing of the Arab is always at hand; fuel is not required in + this warm country; and a glass of cool water is all that is desired + to allay the thirst. This simple and abstemious mode of living is + congenial to the human constitution; accordingly they enjoy + uninterrupted health: sickness is so uncommon with them that to be + old and to be sick are synonymous terms. They think one cannot + happen without the other. Some of the women of these people, whilst + young, are extremely delicate, handsome, and have elegant figures. + They account it gross to swallow food, that would, they say, fatten + them like their Moorish neighbours; they therefore masticate it + only. Their physiognomy is very interesting and animated; their + features are regular; large black expressive eyes; a ready wit, + poetic fancy, expressing themselves in poetic effusions, in which, + from constant habit, some of them have become such adepts, that + they with facility speak extempore poetry; those who are unable to +206 converse in this manner are less esteemed. Their evening amusements + consist in dancing and music, vocal and instrumental. Generally, + throughout all the Arab provinces, but particularly in Suse, among + the Mograffra Arabs, the Woled Abbusebah, and Woled Deleim, the + whole country is in a blaze of light of a summer's evening; music, + dancing, and rejoicing, is heard in every direction. Their music + consists of a kettle-drum, a flute or reed, similar to what Homer + describes as the instrument of the ancient shepherds, a rhabeb or + two-stringed fiddle, played with a semicircular bow, a tamboureen, + and brass castanets. They play in precise time; and the ladies + arrange themselves at the entrance of the sheik's tent. It is + pleasant to observe the beauty of their fine-formed feet, uninjured + by tight shoes, and free from corns and all excrescences. They + dance some dances barefooted, making very short steps, scarcely + raising the foot from the ground, in a peculiar manner. They have + elegant and circular ankles; and their light motions fascinate the + eyes of the spectators and the admiring strangers, who occasionally + exclaim, (_Allah ehrduh alikume ia Elarb_) "the protection of God + be upon you, O Arabs!" (_makine fal Elarb_,) "there are none + comparable to the Arabs!" They have a very elegant shawl-dance: in + the management of the shawl they display singular grace, and + practise elegant figures, sometimes concealing their faces, +207 sometimes showing their brilliant eyes through an opening in the + shawl. The manners of these ladies is courteous, but chaste; + perfectly modest, but without reserve; and the other sex pay them + courteous attention. + +208 + + ABUNDANCE OF CORN + PRODUCED IN + WEST BARBARY. + + + + + _Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of + Duquella's weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or + Subterraneous Depositories for Corn_. + + The empire of Marocco, west of the Atlas, during the reign of Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of the present Emperor Soliman, was + one continued corn-field. At that time the exportation was free to + all parts of the world. It is impossible to conceive the abundance + produced in this prolific land, none but those who have actually + seen the standing corn in the ear, and have seen it reaped, can + form any correct idea of its prodigious increase. The plains of + Rahamena, of Shawiya, of Temsena, of Abda, and Duquella, those + immense plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, of Ait-Amor, and many + others, form each, separately, extensive fields of corn, farther + than the eye can reach. To give an idea of the quantity produced in + the plains near Dar El Beida, it will be sufficient to say, that + 250 sail of ships, from 150 to 700 tons, were loaded at that port + in one year of Seedy Muhamed's reign. At the other ports on the +209 shores of the Atlantic, viz. at Arzilla, L'Araich, Meheduma, Rabat, + Azamor, Mazagan, Saffy, and Mogodor, were shipped a quantity, + almost equal in proportion to what was shipped at Dar-El-Beida, so + that the duties at one dollar per fanegue, of 80 lb. weight on the + exportation of wheat, barley, Indian corn, caravances, beans, and + seeds, in one year, according to the imperial registers, amounted + to 5,257,320 Mexico dollars.[151] Besides which, presents to an + incalculable amount were made from time to time by Spain and + Portugal, particularly by the former, to keep the Emperor in good + humour, and to prevent him from prohibiting the exportation of + grain, of which however there was little chance, as his Imperial + Majesty was always diligent in the accumulation of treasure, and + let no opportunity pass of encouraging the agriculture of his + dominions. This system gave general occupation to the Arabs, or + agriculturists, and enriched them so universally, that the + diffusion of wealth among them, produced other incalculable sources + of revenue, insomuch that it was customary for Muhamed Ben Amaran, + Bashaw of Duquella, to present to the Emperor at Marocco, every + Friday, (the Muhamedan sabbath), as he returned home from the + mosque, a massive bar of pure gold of Timbuctoo, valued at some +210 thousand dollars; which was considered as the fee by which he held + his bashawick. The Arabs who are the agriculturists of the + before-mentioned plains, besides the corn exported, lay up immense + quantities in subterraneous caverns, constructed by a curious + process, well deserving the attention of the colonists of South + Africa; these repositories are called mitferes[152], they are + constructed in a conical form, and will contain from 200 to 2000 + quarters of corn.[153] It is expedient, in their construction, to + exclude the atmospheric air; and the soil, in which they are + constructed, should be essentially conservative, the air being + never changed, is constantly of the same temperature, very dry, and + not subject to the variations of humidity, which affect the + external air: this, with other necessary precautions being + observed, they will preserve the corn twenty or thirty years + perfectly sound. In countries, (like that of the Cape of Good + Hope,) subject to drought, inundations, or locusts, these mitferes, + or catacombs are indispensable, as they preserve corn as a reserve + stock, in the event of scarcity, or famine, produced by any of the + before mentioned calamities, or providential visitations. It is +211 more than probable that this singular art of constructing mitferes, + was derived in ancient times from the catacombs of Egypt, and that + Joseph might have preserved Pharaoh's corn[154] upwards of seven + years, in similar magazines. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed, who + possessed considerable talent, and had a perfect knowledge of the + disposition and character of his subjects, used to say in the + (_em'shoer_,) place of audience, before all the people, in the + latter part of his reign:--"You complain of my decrees; but when I + am departed from this world, you shall seek for one day of Seedi + Muhamed's reign, but you shall not find it." This prediction has + been literally verified throughout the respective reigns of his + sons Muley Yezzed, and Muley El Hesham, and even his son the + present Emperor has often manifested an anti-commercial system, and + has accordingly (probably by the advice of the Fakeers belonging to + the divan) prohibited the exportation of most articles of clothing, + and provision, such as wool, Fas manufactures, corn, olive oil, + raisins, &c.[155] + + [Footnote 151: Barley and wheat imported from different ports + of England and from the Continent into London (which is more + than is imported into Great Britain) in 1818, was 6,179,330 + quintals or saas of Barbary, which are equal to 7,415,390 + fanegues $.] + + [Footnote 152: Genesis, xli. 9.--"And Joseph gathered corn as + the sand of the sea very much."] + + [Footnote 153: I descended into a mitfere in the Arab province + of Duquella, and remained there whilst the Arab explained to me + the mode of constructing them; this was near the douar of Woled + Aisah (see the map): it had just been emptied, and produced + 3450 saas or quintals.] + + [Footnote 154: Genesis, xli. 48.] + + [Footnote 155: The result of this anti-commercial system is, + that corn is dearer than it was during the exportation. Many + millions of acres of the finest and most productive land lies + fallow for want of a market for its produce; indeed, the + produce has sometimes been so low for want of a market, that I + have known instances of the corn having been left standing, not + being worth the expense of reaping. Now this prohibition + undoubtedly will appear to many intelligent readers bad policy + in his Imperial Majesty, but it is nevertheless consistent + policy. The _sine qua non_ of the court of Marocco is to keep + the inhabitants poor. It is asserted by the political + economists of this country, that the Arab should not have more + than sufficient to feed and clothe him; every thing beyond this + turns to evil, and is an incentive to rebellion: the superflux, + they maintain, should go to (_Beit el melh d'el muselmen_,) the + Muselman treasury.] + + A wine company, consisting of gentlemen of practical experience in + that branch of business, might form a most beneficial establishment +212 at Santa Cruz, whither the grapes of Edautenan are brought to + market, and other grapes from the Arab countries, of exquisite + quality and flavour, infinitely superior in richness, size, and + flavour to those of Spain and Portugal, or any part of Italy; + indeed, I have no hesitation in declaring, (without fear of + contradiction,) that this country produces the finest grapes, + oranges, and pomegranates in the world, and in the greatest + abundance. I have myself tasted at Marocco, at a Hebrew Rabbi's + table, excellent imitations of burgundy, claret, champagne, + madeira, and rhenish, or old hock, all the produce of grapes reared + in the plains of that city, and in the adjacent mountains. The port + of Santa Cruz, if purchased of the Emperor by the English, would, + besides securing the trade to Sudan, and the interior of Africa, + supply the London market with abundance of all these excellent + wines. +213 + DOMESTIC SERPENTS OF MAROCCO. + + Every house in Marocco has, or ought to have, a domestic serpent: I + say ought to have, because those that have not one, seek to have + this inmate, by treating it hospitably whenever one appears; they + leave out food for it to eat during the night, which gradually + domiciliates this reptile. These serpents are reported to be + extremely sagacious, and very susceptible. The superstition of + these people is extraordinary; for rather than offend these + serpents, they will suffer their women to be exposed during sleep + to their performing the office of an infant. They are considered, + in a house, emblematical of good, or prosperity, as their absence + is ominous of evil. They are not often visible; but I have seen + them passing over the beams of the roof of the apartments. A friend + of mine was just retired to bed at Marocco, when he heard a noise + in the room, like something crawling over his head, he arose, + looked about the room, and discovered one of these reptiles about + four feet long, of a dark colour, he pricked it with his sword, and + killed it, then returned to bed. In the morning he called to him + the master of the house where he was a guest, and telling him he + had attacked the serpent, the Jew was chagrined, and expostulated + with him, for the injury he had done him: apprehensive that evil + would visit him, he intimated to his guest, that he hoped he would + leave his house, as he feared the malignity of the serpent; and he + was not reconciled until my friend discovered to him that he had + actually killed the reptile. + +214 + + MANUFACTURES OF FAS. + + _Superior Manufacture of Gold-thread.--Imitation of precious + Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine._ + + + + + The manufactures of West Barbary, are of various kinds. They excel, + in the city of Fas, in the manufacture of woollens, cottons, silks, + and gold-thread. The wool and cotton are made into _hayks_, which + are pieces of cloth five feet wide, and about three and a half, or + four yards long, used to throw loosely over the dress, when they go + out into the external air: it resembles the Roman toga, and when + _tastefully adjusted_, gives an elegance to the Moorish costume. + These _hayks_ are manufactured in most of the private families of + Fas; the women employ themselves about them, and sell them to the + merchants. They are sometimes made of cotton mixed with silk, and + also altogether of silk. They make also pieces of silk of various + bright colours, called _bulawan_; the sky-blue, dark-blue, scarlet, + and yellow, are vivid colours, produced by their mode of dying the + silk before it is manufactured. They manufacture their silks from + _Bengal raw silk_, which they call _emfitla_. The _bulawan_ is +215 striped, or chequered, pink, blue, yellow, scarlet, and green: it + resembles what is called, in England, Persian, but it is much + stronger, and more[156] durable, though equally light. The silk + sashes, called _hazam_, are made in large quantities, and are + deserving of imitation in Europe; they are very substantial, but of + the same superior colours with the _bulawan_. They are made + generally half a yard wide, and three yards long: these sell at + Fas, from two to fifty dollars each. The superior kind made for the + ladies of the _horam_[157], or emperor's seraglio, for the ladies + of the bashaws, and for those of the great and opulent, are + intermixed with a beautiful gold-thread, much superior to any that + is manufactured in Europe, insomuch, that the gold-thread imported + from Leghorn and Marseilles is used only in such _hazams_ as are + made for exportation to Sudan, Draha, or Bled-el-Jereed, but those + made for the great and opulent, for home consumption, are + manufactured with the gold thread of the Fas manufacture. Whether + these expert artificers learned the mystery of gold beating, and + gold wire drawing, by which they obtain gold-thread, from the +216 Egyptians, I am not competent to say; but _they_ say they derived + it in ancient times from the Arabs, as well as the art of cutting, + polishing, and setting precious stones. They make a composition in + imitation of amber, which cannot, by the keenest eye, be + distinguished from the natural amber, the latter, however, by[158] + friction attracts cotton, but the manufactured amber does not; this + is the only criterion by which they ascertain the true from the + false amber. They also compose artificial stones with equal + sagacity; the topaz, the emerald, and the ruby they imitate to + perfection. The wool with which they make shawls almost equal in + appearance to those of Kashmere, is procured from the sheep of the + province of Tedla, and is finer than the Spanish Merino. They might + manufacture shawls of goats' hair, equal to those of Kashmere, from + the goats of the eastern declivity of the Atlas, whose hair is like + silk: these goats are called (_el maize Felelley_,) i.e. Tafilelt + goats.[159] There can be no doubt, if our intercourse with Marocco +217 had not been impeded by a general ignorance of the language of that + country, that we might long since have received from the + manufacturers of Fas, shawls of Tafilelt goat-hair, equal to the + finest of the Kashmere manufacture. There is a very extensive + manufactory of red woollen caps at Fas, the contexture of which is + well deserving investigation. There is also a manufactory of gun + locks and barrels; the former appear to have reached the acme of + the art, the latter are not so good as those which they procure + from Europe: so that a Spanish or an English barrel, and a Fas + lock, is considered a complete gun. Such articles of manufacture as + require a complication of machinery and power to produce they + import from Europe, except only when the market is bare, and then + necessity compels them to attempt their construction. The (_hayk + Filelly_,) i.e. Tafilelt hayk, is a fine elegant woollen cloth, + thin as a muslin. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah patronised + this manufacture of his native country, and never wore any other. + The art of manufacturing leather is carried to great perfection at + Mequinas: shoes of the thinnest leather are there made impervious + to water. The manufactures at Marocco and Terodant are similar to + those of Fas, with the exception of that of gold-thread, and the + cutting and polishing of precious stones. The preparation of + leather at Marocco surpasses any thing known in Europe: lion and + tiger skins they prepare white as snow, and soft as silk. There are +218 two plants that grow in the Atlas mountains, the leaves of which + they use in the manufacture of leather; they are called _tizra_, + and _tasaya_. Whether these render the leather impervious, I am not + competent to say; every inquiry that I have made at Marocco + respecting this beautiful manufacture, has been unsatisfactory. I + have always found the manufacturers very guarded, and extremely + jealous; but I have often thought that two or three of our leather + manufacturers, well versed in their art, and withal of penetrating + minds, might contrive to extract the secret from them. In the + mountains of Idaultit, in Lower Suse, they have iron-mines, and + they make gun-barrels and gun-locks equal to what are made at Fas. + The temptations to agriculture, however, are such, that sufficient + only for the consumption of their own _kabyl_ are manufactured; + which is done rather from a principle of self-defense, and from the + _amor patriae_, than with a view to gain. The silver from the mines + of Elala, comes to the Santa Cruz market pure, and in round lumps, + weighing about two ounces each. I have bought it for its weight in + Spanish dollars; but it is generally taken to the Mint for sale. + Ores of gold from the mines of South Barbary, and silver dust from + the bed of the river at Messa, collected personally by me, I sent + to England to be assayed: the person who got them assayed, + reported, that the metal yielded was scarcely sufficient to pay the + charges of assaying; so that the speculation was abandoned. + + [Footnote 156: The spirit of avarice does not sufficiently + prevail to induce the manufacturer to make imperfect articles + for the purpose of sale only. Moreover, they are restrained + from deception by an officer, who inspects the quality of + manufactures, and does not suffer an imperfect article to be + sold.] + + [Footnote 157: This word is called by Europeans _haram_ or + seraglio; but haram thus applied, is a barbarism: it signifies + _vicious_. Horam is the correct pronunciation: it signifies a + place of safety, that admits of no intrusion.] + + [Footnote 158: Thales, the chief of the seven wise men of + Greece, detected the existence of electricity in amber about + 600 years before the Christian era. He was the first who + observed _attraction_ to be the distinguishing property of + amber; and he was so forcibly struck with this singular + discovery, that he was almost led to suppose that it possessed + animation. The term electricity is derived from the Greek word + [Greek: electron], amber. See Remarks on Electricity and + Galvanism, by M. La Beaume, p. 29.] + + [Footnote 159: There was a breed of these goats on the island + of Mogodor, kept there by the emperor's orders. This island is + the state-prison of the empire.] + +219 + + ON THE STATE OF SLAVERY + IN MUHAMEDAN AFRICA. + + + + + The state of slavery in this country is very different from that + which is experienced by the unfortunate men who are transported + from Africa to work under our Christian brethren in the West India + islands. No man, who is sufficiently erudite to read the Koran can + be (_abd_) a slave in a Muhamedan country. It is incumbent on a + good muselman to give such his liberty, that the propagation of the + (_Deen el Wasah_[160]) muselman faith, be not impeded. A man who + has served his master faithfully[161] seven years, sometimes gets + liberated. This liberation, however, is not compulsory; but + conscientious muselmen, of good moral character, often adopt this + enlarging system. I have, however, met with many Moors, who, on + offering liberty to their slaves, the latter have declined it, + preferring to continue in obeisance; a clear proof that their + servitude is not very severe. All slaves, without exception, are + brought to this country from the various territories of Sudan, by + the akkabars, kaffilas, or caravans, that traverse Sahara. They are + all pagans or idolaters (from the interior regions). They are worth +220 from ten to twenty dollars at Timbuctoo; and at Marocco and Fas + they sell for, from seventy to one hundred dollars. They are + received into the Moorish families as domestic servants, and soon + forget their idolatrous superstitions, and become (nominally at + least) Muhamedans. After which, many learn to read the Koran, and + becoming observers of ablution and prostration, often procure their + liberation; for if any one should neglect to liberate such a slave, + his brethren in Muhamed will urge him to it, as a good and + charitable work, becoming a true, muselman.[162] + + [Footnote 160: So called by Muhamedans: _literally_ means the + liberal of _wide doctrine_, alluding to that of the Arabian + Prophet.] + + [Footnote 161: Jeremiah, xxxiv. 14.] + + [Footnote 162: The etymology of _muselman_ is, a man of peace; + from _salem_, peace.] + + The man who wrote the letter from Timbuctoo, giving his master at + Mogodor an account of Mungo Park, having visited Kabria, which + letter I read, and reported its contents on my arrival in England + from Mogodor, about the year 1807, to my Lord Moira (now the + Marquis of Hastings), to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles + Morgan, was a liberated negro of Seed el Abes Buhellel, a Fas + merchant, whose father had an establishment at Timbuctoo. When + Buhellel liberated this negro, he had such confidence in him, that + he advanced to him, on his own personal credit, goods to a + considerable amount, with which he crossed Sahara, and took them to + Timbuctoo for a market. It were to be desired, for the sake of + _humanity_, that our West-India planters would take a lesson on + this subject from the Moors, whose conduct, in this particular, is + worthy of imitation. + +221 + + THE PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS. + + _Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance + of their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and + not on the other._ + + + + + In the autumn of 1792, (Jeraad) locusts began to appear in West + Barbary. The corn was in ear, and therefore safe, as this devouring + insect attacks no hard substance. In (the _liahli_,) the period of + heavy rains comprised between the forty longest nights, _old + style_, they disappeared; so that one or two only were seen + occasionally: but so soon as the _liahli_ had passed, the small + young green locust began to appear, no bigger than a fly. As + vegetation increased, these insects increased in size and quantity. + But the country did not yet seem to suffer from them. About the end + of March, they increased rapidly. I was at (_Larsa Sultan_) the + emperor's garden, which belongs to the Europeans, and which was + given to the merchants of Mogodor by the emperor Seedi Muhamed ben + Abdallah, in the kabyl of Idaugourd, in the province of Haha, and + the garden flourished with every green herb, and the fruit-trees + were all coming forward in the productive beauty of spring. I went + there the following day, and not a green leaf was to be seen: an +222 army of locusts had attacked it during the night, and had devoured + every shrub, every vegetable, and every green leaf; so that the + garden had been converted into an unproductive wilderness. And, + notwithstanding the incredible devastation that was thus produced, + not one locust was to be seen. The gardener reported, that (_sultan + jeraad_) the king of the locusts had taken his departure eastward + early in the morning; the myriads of locusts followed, so that in a + quarter of an hour not one was to be seen. The depredations of + these devouring insects was too soon felt, and a direful scarcity + ensued. The poor would go out a locusting, as they termed it: the + bushes were covered; they took their (_haik_) garment, and threw it + over them, and then collected them in a sack. In half an hour they + would collect a bushel. These they would take home, and boil a + quarter of an hour; they would then put them into a frying-pan, + with pepper, salt, and vinegar, and eat them, without bread or any + other food, making a meal of them. They threw away the head, wings, + and legs, and ate them as we do prawns. They considered them + wholesome food, and preferred them to pigeons. Afterwards, whenever + there was any public entertainment given, locusts was a standing + dish; and it is remarkable that the dish was always emptied, so + generally were they esteemed as palatable food. + + A few years after the locusts appeared, I performed a journey from +223 Mogodor to Tangier. The face of the country appeared like a newly + ploughed field of a brown soil; for it was completely covered with + these insects, insomuch that they had devoured even the bark of the + trees. They rose up about a yard, as the horses went on, and + settled again; in some places they were one upon another, three or + four inches deep on the ground; a few were flying in the air, and + they flew against the face, as if they were blind, to the no small + annoyance of the traveller. It is very remarkable, that on reaching + the banks of the river[163] Elkos, which we crossed, there was not, + on the north side of that river, to my great astonishment, one + locust any where to be seen; but the country was flourishing in all + the luxuriance of verdure, although the river was not wider than + the Thames at Windsor. This extraordinary circumstance was + accounted for by the Arabs, who said that not a locust would cross + the river, till (_sultan jeraad_) the king of the locusts should + precede and direct the way. + + [Footnote 163: See the Map of the empire of Marocco.] + +224 + + ON THE INFLUENCE + OF THE + GREAT PRINCIPLE OF CHRISTIANITY + _ON THE MOORS_. + (Mat. vii. 12.) + + _Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent + it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial + Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to + attend to the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French + colonizing Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating + the Value of our West-India Islands._ + + + + + That it is a Christian duty to attempt, by lenient measures, to + propagate the Christian religion among the Idolaters and Muhamedans + of Africa, I think cannot be doubted; but this propagation will not + spread to any considerable extent until, (in that country,) the + morals of Christians in general shall approach nearer than they + actually do to the standard of Christian perfection. It is, + however, most certain that there never was a more promising, or a + more favourable opportunity of subverting paganism in Africa, and + establishing Christianity on its ruins, than at this present + period; and I think the best method to effect this desirable + purpose is through the medium of commerce, which must, in that + continent, necessarily precede science and civilisation. It is well +225 known, by all men of penetration who have resided in Muhamedan + countries, that the principles of the religion of Muhamed are not + so repugnant to Christianity as many, nay, most persons have + imagined. Various causes, however, tend to increase the hostility + that exists between the two religions. First, it is augmented by + the fakeers, and by political men, who are ever active in bringing + to their aid superstition and enthusiasm, to increase the + hostility. Secondly, it is augmented by the very little intercourse + which they have with Christians, originating, for the most part, in + our ignorance of the Arabic language, an ignorance which has been + lamented by the emperor[164] Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah himself. + Thirdly, the hostility of these two religions is augmented by a + very ancient tradition, that the country will be invaded by the + Christians, and converted to Christianity, that this event will + happen on a Friday (the Muhamedan sabbath), during the time that + they are at the (_silla dohor_) prayers at half past one o'clock, +226 P.M.; so that throughout the empire they close the gates of all the + towns on this day, at this period of time, till two o'clock, P.M.: + when the prayers are over, and the people go out of the mosques, + the gates are again thrown open. This tradition, which is + universally believed, acts on the minds of the whole community, and + fans the embers of hostility already lighted between Christians and + Muhamedans, bringing to the recollection of the latter the hostile + intentions of the former to invade and take their country from + them, when an opportunity shall offer. On the other hand, what + tends to reconcile the two creeds is, the influence that European + commerce, and the principles of the Christian doctrine, have had on + the muselmen of Africa. This influence extends as far as the + commerce with Europeans extends. Wherever the Europeans negociate + with the Moors, the great principle of the Christian doctrine is + known and discussed,--that principle which surpasses every doctrine + propagated by the Grecian philosophers, or the wise men of the + East,--that truly noble, liberal, and charitable principle, "Do as + you would be done by," influences the conduct of the better + educated muselmen who have had long intercourse and negociations + with Christians; and they do not fail to retort it upon us, + whenever _our conduct_ deviates from it. Thus, the minds of + muselmen, wherever European commerce flows, are tinctured with this + great principle of the Christian doctrine. And, to an accurate +227 observer of mankind, it will appear that this principle, from its + own intrinsic beauty, has in many superseded the muselman + retaliative system of morality, originating in the Mosaic law,--"An + eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth." For I have heard + muselmen, in their individual disputes with one another, advance + this precept as a rule of conduct. If, therefore, this divine + principle be recognised by muselmen, who have had intercourse and + commercial negociations with Europeans, in defiance of the + obstacles to this doctrine suggested by the fakeers and political + men; what might we not expect from the due cultivation of an + extensive commerce, upon a grand national scale, with this + interesting continent? Might we not expect a gradual diffusion of + the principles of Christianity among the muselmen, as well as among + the pagans and idolaters, of Africa? I would venture to assert, + that in the event of the British government engaging, with energy + and determination, to cultivate a commercial intercourse and + extensive connection with Africa, that the negroes, and possibly + even the Muhamedans, might gradually be converted to Christianity. + This event would take a long time to accomplish, but its gradual + progress, most probably, would be more rapid than was the progress + of Muhamedanism during the life of the Arabian prophet. + + [Footnote 164: When this Emperor, for the purpose of satisfying + his people that he administered retributive justice, ordered + two teeth of an English merchant to be drawn, he repented so + much of what he had done, that he offered to make any amends + that the merchant might require, expressing his wish that he + had an English consul with whom he could converse colloquially, + without the inconvenience of an interpreter; and for this + purpose the Emperor, after granting him considerable favours, + urged him to accept of the British consulship; adding, that he + himself would secure him the appointment, and that he would + then refuse nothing, but whatsoever the English should ask of + him, they should have.] + + Associations have been formed in this philanthropic country, + through the medium of extensive subscriptions, for the civilisation +228 of Africa, and the abolition of the slave trade: the greatest merit + is due to the individuals who have subscribed to such institutions; + their motives have been unexceptionable, but we grossly deceive + ourselves, and the whole is an illusion! The French, as it were, + have taken the staff out of our hands; and whilst we are in vain + endeavouring to abolish the trade in slaves, _by the capture of + slave-ships at sea_[165], they are insidiously cultivating the + growth of cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, and other colonial + produce, on the banks of the Senegal river; insomuch that if we + shall continue thus supinely to disregard their important African + agricultural operations, the result in a few years will probably + be, that they will be able to undersell us in West-India produce, + in the markets of continental Europe; for they can cultivate, with + free negroes at Senegal, colonial produce at considerably less + expense than our West-India cultivation. The voyage, also, is not + half the distance; so that the continental market for the sale of + West-India produce will be shortly supplied from Senegal, from +229 whence it is more than probable that colonial produce will be + imported to Europe at little more than half the expense of + importing it from the West Indies: thus Great Britain may be driven + out of the market for colonial produce, except for what may be + sufficient for her own domestic supply. + + [Footnote 165: Many naval officers concur in thinking, that to + suppress the slave trade, by interrupting the ships, would + employ all the navy of Great Britain; and entail a war-expense + on the nation; besides the enormous expense that will be + necessarily incurred by the various commissions dispatched to + Sierra Leone, Havannah, &c. &c. for the adjudication of + slave-causes. To which may be added, our expensive presents to + Spain and Portugal, to induce those powers to coalesce in the + abolition; which there is too much reason to apprehend will be + evaded by the subjects of those powers.] + + This has been a favourite scheme of the French, who have now begun + to taste the fruits of it: they have had it in view and in + operation _ever since we gave them possession of Senegal_. It was + the system of her late Emperor, Bonaparte, suggested to him by the + arch and brilliant genius of Talleyrand, to indemnify the loss of + St. Domingo. + + Moreover, the French, who are cultivating the territory of Senegal + with indefatigable industry, will be, in a few years, not only able + to supply the continental markets of Europe with colonial produce, + but they will become masters of North Africa, establish another + Ceuta at the African promontory of the Cape de Verd, and, in the + event of a war, annoy incalculably our East-India trade, and + enhance the price of East-India produce in the British dominions; + whilst they will, by the aid of the Americans, who will be always + ready to assist them, form a depot for East-India goods at the Cape + de Verd, and from thence introduce them into Africa and France, to + the almost total exclusion of Great Britain. If we are to prevent + these events from taking place, we must adopt different measures +230 from what we have adopted; we must move in a very different sphere + from that in which we have been accustomed to move; we must be much + more energetic, more vigilant, and more active than we have been, + with respect to African matters. It is presumed that these + suggestions are well deserving the consideration of His Majesty's + ministers. May they view with the eye of an eagle and the wisdom of + the serpent the insidious encroachments that are thus making on our + colonial markets!! + + The Africans, by which term I mean the natives, viz. the Moors, the + Arabs, the Berebbers, the Shelluhs, and the Negroes, (not the Jews, + who, although numerous in this country, yet, as they are and have + been ever since their Theocratical Government, a distinct race, and + their customs and manners well known, I do not include them in the + term Africans, although from their birth they are entitled to the + appellation,)--the Africans, I say, are seldom met with in closed + rooms, but are constantly in the open air, transacting their + business in _dwarias_, which are detached rooms, or apartments, + with three sides, the fourth being supported by pillars; this + custom of living continually in or exposed to the external air + renders them strong and healthy, wherefore their bodies, by an + _antiperistasis_, have the natural heat repelled and kept within, + increasing by this action their appetite for food, which is always + strong. They live in a frugal manner, seldom eating but of one +231 food: the prevailing dish throughout North Africa is cuscasoe, a + granulated paste, cooked by steam, and garnished with vegetables, + and chickens, or mutton; this is a very nutritive, palatable, and + wholesome dish. They are not incumbered at their meals with a + variety of dishes; but a large bowl, or spacious plate, is + introduced on a round table, supported by one pillar, like the + _Monopodia_ of the ancients, rather larger than the bowl or dish, + and about six inches high. Half a dozen Moors sit round this + repast, on cushions or on the ground, cross-legged; a position + which they remain in with perfect ease and pliability from custom + and the loose dress they wear. When the company have seated + themselves, a slave or a servant comes round to the guests, to + perform the ceremony of (_togreda_) washing of the hands; a brass + bason or pan, which they call _tas_, is brought round to all the + company, the slave holding it by his left hand, while, with the + right hand, he pours water on the hands of the guests from a + (_garoff_) pitcher, in the form of an Etruscan vase, having + (_zeef_) a towel thrown over his shoulder to dry their hands. This + ceremony is performed before and after meals. The master of the + feast, before they begin to eat, pronounces (_Bismillah_) the grace + before meat, which signifies, "In the name of God;" after the + repast, he says (_El Ham'd u lillah_) "Praise be to God." Each + guest eats with the fingers of his right hand, none ever touching + the food with their left. If a piece of meat, or a joint of a fowl +232 or chicken is to be divided, two of the guests take hold of it, and + pull it till it is divided. This is somewhat repugnant to an + European's ideas of delicacy; but if we consider that the hands are + previously washed, and that they never come in contact with the + mouth in decent or respectable society, there is not so insuperable + an objection to this way of eating as might otherwise appear. Each + person in eating the granulated flour or cuscasoe, puts his two + fore-fingers into the dish before him, and by a dextrous turn of + the hand converts the quantity taken up into the form of a ball, + which he, with a peculiar dexterity, jirks into the mouth. The + Africans never drink till they have done eating; when dinner is + over, a large goblet, or _poculum amicitiae_, of pure water is + passed round, and each person drinks copiously; the washing is then + repeated, and the repast is terminated. Afterwards coffee is + introduced, without milk: the cup is not placed in a saucer, nor do + they hand you a spoon, for the sugar is mixed in the coffee-pot; + the cup is presented in an outer cup of brass, which preserves the + fingers from being burned. They use no bells in their tents; but + the slaves or servants are called by the master when wanted, one + generally standing in the corner of the tent to superintend the + others. The pipe is sometimes introduced after the coffee, but this + is by no means a general custom, except among the negroes. The pipe + is of rose-wood, of jasmin, or of rhododendrum wood: great +233 quantities of the latter are conveyed across the Sahara, for + pipe-tubes for the negroes of Timbuctoo, and other territories of + Sudan, bordering on the Nile el Abeed, or Nile of the Negroes + (Niger). + + Passing through this territory of encampments, when travellers are + disposed to sleep at a douar, one of the party presents himself at + the confines of the encampment, and exclaims (_Deef Allah_) "The + guest of God." The sheik of the douar is immediately apprised of + the circumstance; and after investigating the rank of the + travellers, he enquires if they have tents with them; if they have + not, he has his own or (_kheyma deaf_) the guest's tent + appropriated for the travellers. If they have their own tents, + which persons of respectability generally have, the sheik comes and + directs the servants where to pitch them; the camels and mules are + disburdened, and the sheik declares (_atshie m'hassub alia_) "For + all this baggage I hold myself accountable." Europeans travelling + in this country generally follow their own customs: accordingly, + among the English, tea is ordered; a most delectable refreshment + after a fatiguing journey on horseback, exposed to the scorching + rays of the African sun. If the sheik and a few of his friends are + invited to tea, which these Arabs designate by (_elma skoon u el + hadra_) hot water and conversation, they like it very sweet, and + drink half-a-dozen cups at least. Nothing ingratiates travellers + with these people so much as distributing a few lumps of sugar +234 among them: sugar, honey, or any thing sweet, being with these + Arabs emblematical of peace and friendship. Some of the women of + the Arabs are extremely handsome; in all the simplicity of nature + "when unadorned adorned the most." To fine figures they unite + handsome profiles, good and white teeth, and large, black, + expressive, intelligent eyes, like the eyes of a gazel; dark + eye-brows, and dark long eye-lashes, which give a peculiar warmth + and softness to the eye. They concern themselves little about time, + and will sometimes come to converse after midnight with the + Europeans. When the guard of the tent informs them they cannot go + in, that the Christian is a-bed and undressed, they are not less + astonished than we are to see them sleeping in the open air at + night, on the ground, with their clothes on. When candles are + brought into the tent at night, the servant wishes the company a + good evening: he says "_M'sah elkhere_," the literal meaning of + which is "_Good be with you this evening_;" which salutation it is + courteous to return, even to a slave; and if any one, however great + his rank, were not to return it, he would be considered a bad + muselman, a disaffected and inhospitable barbarian. The morning + salutation is (_Alem Allah sebak_,) "May your morning be + accompanied with the knowledge of God;" or, (_Sebah el khere_, or + _sebahk b'elkhere_) "Good morning to you," or "May your morning be + good." Equals meeting, touch hands, and then each kisses his own +235 respectively; they then say, (I now speak of the middle order of + society,) "And how are you, and how have you been: how long it is + since I saw you! and how are you, and how are your children; (_uhel + Dar'kume_,) and the people of your family, how are they, certainly + you are well:" and so they will go on, sometimes for a quarter of + an hour, repeating the same thing. If an inferior meets a superior, + he kisses his hand or his garment and retires, when there is a + greater disparity of rank, the inferior kisses the stirrup of the + superior; or prostrates himself if the superior is a prince, a + fakeer, or a bashaw. + + Another salutation among respectable individuals is, by each + placing his right hand on his heart, indicating that part to be the + residence of the friend! + + The Jews of this country retain the customs of their ancestors more + pure and unmixed than those in other countries. + + When a Jew dies he is interred the same day, or the day after at + farthest. The female relations and the friends of the deceased + assemble round the corpse, and utter bitter lamentations, tearing + their faces and their hair in a most woeful manner; they disfigure + their faces with their finger-nails, till they bleed, and during + the whole time keep stamping or moving their legs, beating time, as + it were, with their feet; these lamentations are continued, with + occasional intermission, till the body of the deceased is carried +236 away for interment. The performers of these bitter lamentations + appear to have all the marks of hideous grief inscribed on their + faces, but most of them feel no real concern; some of the girls, + young and handsome, near akin to the deceased, are ambitious to + disfigure themselves, and they lacerate their pretty faces most + lamentably. The more wounds these bear on their cheeks the greater + is their grief considered to be. But the corpse being removed the + mourners regale themselves with _Mahaya_, or African brandy, and + make up for their lamentations, by converting their bitter strains + into conviviality. + + There is a strange resemblance between this custom and that + practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand; insomuch that we might + imagine the latter to be one of the lost tribes of this + extraordinary people. It is true that we have no record of such a + perfection of navigation as to enable us to conjecture how a tribe + of Jews could reach New Zealand: but many things remain in great + obscurity even in this enlightened age; and we have had no + historical record transmitted to us from the ancients of many + extraordinary discoveries that recently have been made in Egypt. + +237 + + INTEREST OF MONEY. + + _Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital._ + + + + + In this country the law allows no interest of money; the + consequence is, that the country is overwhelmed with usurers, who + exact, generally, an oath of secrecy, and lend money on pledges of + valuable and convertible merchandise: the interest paid on these + negociations is most exorbitant; I have known five, six, eight, + ten, and even twelve per cent, per month paid for the use of money! + There is no paper money in this country; but a bank might be + established at Mogodor, for the convenience of internal trade: the + _sine qua non_ of the bank should be, AN ADEQUATE CAPITAL. The + advantages that would necessarily result from an establishment of + this kind are incalculable; the paper of a bank, _thus + established_, would be current in a short time, UNDER JUDICIOUS AND + INTELLIGENT MANAGEMENT, in all the territories of Sudan, through + the heart of Africa, through Bambara, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Cashna, + Wangara, Bernoh, Fas, and Marocco, and various other countries. The +238 immense advantages of the carriage of paper through the Desert and + through Sudan, _convertible_ into cash at every commercial city, + port, or district in a country like this, would greatly facilitate + the operations of commerce; this must be evident to every political + economist acquainted with the nature of commercial negociations in + Africa. + + The superflux of coin, consisting principally of Mexico dollars, + and doubloons, (over and above the quantum necessary for the + circulating medium of commercial negociations,) is either buried + under ground by the owner, or converted into jewels for the ladies + of his family; there is a general propensity to these subterraneous + hordes; the bulk of the people, the lower classes in particular, + have an idea that they will enjoy in the next world what they save + in this; which opinion is not extraordinary, when we consider how + many cases there are, wherein we see the sublimest capacity + prostrate at the shrine of an _early imbibed_ superstition. Many of + these erring philosophers, therefore, attentive to the accumulation + of riches, retire from this sublunary world with an immense + immolated treasure, wherewith to begin, as they imagine, their + career in the world to come! + + "We," they say, "convert our superflux to jewels and costly apparel + for our females, and we have the gratification of seeing them well + apparelled and agreeably ornamented. Moreover, a great part of our + possessions is appropriated to the sacred rites of hospitality, +239 which you Christians know not how to practise; for you worship the + idol of ostentation; you invite your friends to dinner; you incur + an intolerable and injudicious expense, and provide a multiplicity + of dishes to pamper their appetites, sufficient for a regiment of + muselmen; when nature and national beings, which men were born to + be, require only one dish. Moreover, your sumptuous entertainments + are given to those only who do not want; therefore is it an + ostentatious and a wanton waste! We, on the contrary, that is to + say, every good Muselman, gives one-tenth of his property to the + poor; and moreover much of his substance is appropriated to the + support, not of the rich and independent, who do not want it, but + to (_deefan_) strange guests who journey from one country to + another; insomuch that, with us, a poor man may travel by public + beneficence and apt hospitality from the shores of the + Mediterranean to the borders of Sahara, without a fluce[166] in + (_hashituh_) the corner of his garment.[167] A traveller, however + poor he may be, is never at a loss for a meal, several meals, and + even for three days entertainment, wherever he travels through our + country; and if any man were to go to a douar in any of the Arab +240 provinces of our Sovereign's empire, and not receive the + entertainment and courtesy of a brother, that douar would be + stamped with a stigma of indelible disgrace! Pardon us, therefore, + if we say, you have not such hospitality in your country, although + the great principle of (_Seedna Aisa_) our Lord Jesus, is + charity." [168] I should, however, observe that this hospitality is + shown almost exclusively to Muhamedans. + + [Footnote 166: A fluce is a copper coin, one hundred of which + are equal to sixpence English.] + + [Footnote 167: In the corner of his garment:--The Africans have + no pockets; they carry their money in the corner of their + garment, and tie it with a knot to secure it.] + + [Footnote 168: The Muhamedans acknowledge Jesus Christ to have + been a Prophet that worked miracles; the indelible proof of his + mission.] + + Respecting women and horses, speaking of the treatment of them in + England, they remark, that "England is a paradise for women, who + are there exalted beyond the fitness of things; and it is + (_gehennum_) a hell for horses, for those poor ill-treated animals + in the hackney coaches and carts, need only to be seen to be + pitied; the hard blows which they receive from their cruel masters + are calculated to impress our minds with an opinion that we are in + a land of barbarians, whereas you call yourselves a civilised + people: You say you are such; your actions deny the fact, and we + judge by actions, not by words or self-commendations. When, + therefore, you pride yourselves on your superiority and + civilisation the whole is a delusion; and when we hear you set + forth these absurd pretensions, we are compelled to commiserate our + common race, and to exclaim, Alas, poor human nature!" This is the +241 verbatim reply that a very intelligent but irritated Muselman made + to my animadversions on the absurdity of burying treasure. This + gentleman's father had been ambassador from the Emperor of Marocco + to Great Britain, and to France; and had seen much of French, + Spanish, and English manners, among the higher orders of society in + those countries. + + Too much cannot be said in commendation of this generous, + open-hearted philanthropy of the Arabs, here described: but the + intelligent reader will understand, that it applies particularly to + the Arabs, or cultivators of the plains, in the empire of Marocco; + and, in its large and unlimited extent, to the Bedouin or roving + Arabs of the Sahara, and of Lower Suse, from whose (_kabyles_) + clans, the Arabs cultivators are early emigrations; almost all of + them having their original stock in the Sahara. It is also + confined, almost exclusively, to Muhamedans, and does not, like the + divine doctrine of Jesus Christ, with universal benevolence embrace + all mankind, without distinction of party, sect, or nation;--a + doctrine which has lately been put in considerable practice in our + own country, by institutions supported by voluntary subscriptions + for the destitute, for foreigners in distress, and for negroes; by + institutions in aid and support of all needy persons labouring + under sickness, or having need of surgical aid; by institutions for + the encouragement of industry, for the refutation of vice and +242 immorality; by institutions that reflect immortal honour on this + country, and cast a lustre on the respective individuals who have + contributed to all these heart-approving institutions, which are + calculated to afford relief to almost every description of + suffering humanity!! + + Itinerant (_tebeebs_) doctors travel through the country to + administer to the sick; which, however, are seldom found. They + carry over their shoulders a leathern bag, containing their + surgical apparatus, which consists of a lancet, a scarifying knife, + and a caustic knife, or knife for burning: they scarify the neck, + the forehead, or the wrists. The caustic knife is an instrument of + very general application. They convert all gun-shot and other + wounds, as well as sores, into burns, by heating the knife in the + fire, and gently touching the circumference of the wound with it. + This produces acute pain; but the Africans bear pain heroically: + they say that this method prevents inflammation and festering. They + perform, by caustic, extraordinary cures. I imagine this method + would not agree with an European body, pampered with a variety of + high food and luxurious living. + + The inhabitants of this country break their fast with (_el hassua_) + barley-gruel; they grind the barley to the size of sparrow-shot, + this they mix with water, and simmer over a slow fire two or three + hours. This food is esteemed extremely wholesome, and is +243 antifebrile. The Emperor takes this before he drinks tea in a + morning: his father, Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, also, who drank + none but fine hyson tea, never would drink that beverage till he + had first laid a foundation of _el hassua_. + + The Arabs and Shelluhs, with whom _el hassua_ is generally used, + urge its salubrity, by reporting that a physician alighted in a + strange country, and when he arose in the morning, after performing + his matins, he seated himself with some of the inhabitants, and, + conversing, asked them how they lived, and with what food they + broke their fast? "With _el hassua_," was the reply: "Then," + rejoined Esculapius, (_Salam u alikume_,) "Peace be with you; for + if you eat _el hassua_ in the morning you have no need of a + doctor:" and he immediately departed. + + When I established the port of Santa Cruz, and opened it to + European commerce, the gratitude and hospitality of the Arabs and + Shelluhs of the province of Suse, was demonstrated in every way: so + rejoiced were they to see their port, after an inactivity of thirty + years, again re-established. If I rode out to visit any part of the + country, the women, on my approach to a douar, would come out to a + great distance with bowls of milk on their heads; others with bowls + of honey, with thin scrapings of butter in them, and bread or +244 cakes[169], similar to pancakes, baked in five minutes, on stones + heated with the embers of charcoal. These greetings I received by + tasting every bowl of milk, and dipping a bit of bread in the honey + and eating it. The milk thus presented is emblematical of peace and + amity; the honey of welcome: to refuse eating or tasting what is + thus presented, is considered, among this patriarchal people, a + great breach of good manners, an inexcusable want of courtesy, + which they say none but a _kaffer_[170] would commit. They would + then say, _Birk eeaudee, birk attajar u straha_, "Alight, I pray + thee, alight, merchant! and rest yourself." + + [Footnote 169: See a similar custom in Genesis, xxiii. 5--8.] + + [Footnote 170: Kaffer is the Arabic term for Infidel. All the + idolatrous Negro nations are, by Muhamedans, denominated + Kaffer, (or Caffres). Sing. Kaffer--plural Kaffer.] + + In these halcyon days, these grateful people never knew when to + cease offering presents. They sat on the ground in the refulgent + meridian sun, and when I dismounted to walk to the shade of a tree, + to partake of their hospitality, they would exhort me to shun the + shade, (_lie e drab'k elbird_) for fear it should give me cold. +245 These Bedouin[171] Arabs of Suse and Sahara are the descendants of + the ancient Arabs, whose bold and figurative language is the same + that was spoken in Arabia twelve centuries ago, in the time of + Muhamed. + + [Footnote 171: The Arabs of the vast plains of the empire of + Marocco, who live in douars, or encampments, are emigrations + from the original stock or clan in Sahara; who are the pure or + Bedouin Arabs. Being established in the beautiful and + productive plains of West and South Barbary, they soon forget + their Bedouin customs, change their wandering, plundering + habits, and become cultivators, and stationary; for the immense + produce of their labour in these plains, which require no dung, + nor any preparation but the plough, soon rewards their + industry, so as to determine them to continue this new mode of + life.] + + Passing early one morning by a douar, in the territory of + Howara,[172] I was invited to join a party to hunt the wild boar. + The plains of Howara, between the city of Terodant and Santa Cruz, + abound with boars: we started, in a few hours, seven of these + animals, two of which were taken and killed. The dogs best + calculated for this sport are what they call _sereet telt_, or the + third race of greyhounds, which is a very strong dog. One of these, + I observed, attacked the boars by the nape of the neck, and never + left his hold till the other dogs came up to the attack: although + the boar would toss him about in all directions, he never left his + hold. The Arabs of Suse are very dextrous and active at this sport: + they hunt with javelins; some have guns, which they fire when + opportunity offers, but they never expend their powder and shot + (_batal_) vainly, as they express it, but always make sure of their +246 mark. I could not but admire this celebrated (_slogie_) greyhound; + which the Arab to whom it belonged observing, insisted on my taking + it home to Santa Cruz, adding, that whenever I wished to hunt, to + let him know, and he would accompany me. I offered him a present of + money for the dog, which is what I never had refused before in the + provinces north of Suse; but he declined the offer, saying he was + more than recompensed already by the establishment of the port of + Santa Cruz. "Myself, my family, my kabyl," said he, "hail you as a + father; (_e moot alik_) they will die in your cause." No favour + could have equalled that of re-establishing the commerce of + Agadeer. These circumstances serve to show what reception might be + expected from these people, if the British Government would + negociate with the Emperor for the purchase of the port of Agadeer, + or Santa Cruz, preparatory to the establishment of a commerce with + Timbuctoo, and other regions of Sudan. + + [Footnote 172: In the 815th year of the Hejira, an emigration + from the Howara Arabs attacked, took possession of, and + destroyed the city of Assouan, in Egypt.] + +247 + + PLAN + FOR THE + GRADUAL CIVILISATION OF AFRICA. + + _On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the + Sahara and Ashantee._ + + + + + To cultivate an extensive commercial intercourse with Africa, I + have already observed, that the best method, the simplest, and that + which is, from contingent circumstances, the most likely to + succeed, is the plan which I have pointed out in the following + prospectus. I shall now offer several reasons why this plan is + superior to any other hitherto suggested. + + The riches of the Arabs of Sahara generally, as well as of that + part which I have contemplated as a convenient spot for + establishing a colony, and for opening a communication with Sudan, + consists exclusively in camels. The independence of a man is there + ascertained by the number of camels he possesses; it is not said, + how many thousand dollars has he? or, what quantity of gold does he + possess? or, what land has he? but, how many camels does he own? + The master of these, aptly denominated, ships of the Desert, is +248 urged by interest to let on hire his camels, as the master of a + ship of the ocean is urged by interest to seek freight for his + ship. And it is observed, that the ferocious appearance among the + Arabs, (which is too often assumed,) subsides in proportion to the + intercourse they have with merchants, who negociate with them for + the transport of their goods. Thus, at the _depots_ for camels + between the cultivated country and the Desert, viz. at _Akka, + Tatta, Ufran,_ and _Wedinoon_, the ferocity of the Arabs is greatly + lost in the commercial spirit and endeavour to let their camels on + hire to the merchants. The Mograffra, the Woled Abbusebah, and the + Tejakant Arabs, therefore, who possess the Sahara, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the confines of Timbuctoo, would act in concert + with the colony, and would have a joint interest in promoting their + commercial views. The Brabeesh Arabs who receive, occasionally, + tribute from Timbuctoo, would also find it expedient to promote the + commerce of Sudan, and the prosperity of Timbuctoo; both which + would necessarily be united to their own interest, and would + provide a demand for their camels. + + If the profits of this commerce, when once established and secured + to the British, were to be cent. per cent., the whole would remain + a bonus to the colony. There would be no shereef of Fezzan, or + bashaw of Tripoli, to take their share of the profits, in any + shape, in exchange for the privilege of being suffered to pass +249 through their country. But, on the contrary, the Arabs of the + Mograffra and other tribes would find it so evidently their + interest and advantage to be friendly with us, that we might + absolutely have the entire command of the Desert, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the city of Timbuctoo, which would eventually + throw such a weight of power into our hands, as to make even that + city itself, in a manner, tributary to us. + + A plan of this kind should be executed _upon a grand national + scale_, and be pursued with discretion and perseverance. + + An attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo, through Ashantee, and + establish a commerce through that country, might meet with + temporary success; but I apprehend that we should labour under the + same inconveniences, and be subject to the same arbitrary imposts + and exactions, whether in the shape of duties, part of the profits, + or otherwise, as we should, by opening a communication through + Tripoli. There would be a present or douceur to the king of + Ashantee; others to the princes of the adjoining territories; and, + finally, (taking the character of this king to be as represented by + the late traveller in that country, Mr. Bowdich), might we not + reasonably anticipate that, on the first dispute respecting the + division of the profits, the king of Ashantee would order all the + English out of his country, and, to terminate the dispute, plunder + them of their property? But, perhaps the establishment of a colony + in Ashantee, _conjoined_ to one in Sahara, might not be +250 objectionable. We should then have two routs to the grand emporium + of central Africa: if one failed, the other would remain open for + our countrymen to recover their property and to return by; and + thus, in establishing a commercial intercourse with the interior of + Africa, through two routes, we should secure, at the same time, our + retreat, by one of them, and not remain at the mercy of the + barbarous king of Ashantee, or any other African potentate, who + might be urged, from jealousy or avarice, to sacrifice our people, + when once he had them in his power! + +251 + + PROSPECTUS OF A PLAN + FOR FORMING A + NORTH AFRICAN OR SUDAN COMPANY, + + To be instituted for the purpose of establishing an extensive + Commerce with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the + Interior Regions of North Africa. + + + * * * * * + + OBJECTS OF THE SOCIETY. + + 1_st_. To lay open the interior regions of North Africa to British + enterprise--to supply those vast and unexplored countries with + British manufactures, with East-India goods, and with colonial + produce. + + 2_dly_, To encourage our manufactories, by opening a new market + calculated to improve the revenue of the country, to provide + employment for the labouring poor, and to enrich the mercantile + community; _the genial influence of which sources of prosperity + will necessarily diffuse itself through all classes_. + + 3_dly_, To facilitate, through the medium of commerce (_the only + medium by which it can possibly be effected_), the exploration of + the interior regions of Africa, (_which have remained to this day a + sealed book, notwithstanding the many adventurous expeditions that +252 have been undertaken_,) by opening a communication with the natives + of that vast and little-known continent, and BY CALLING TO OUR AID + THE CO-OPERATION OF THE NATIVE CHIEFS, BY HOLDING OUT TO THEM THE + BENEFITS WHICH THEY WILL DERIVE FROM COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE AS A + REWARD FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE AND EXERTIONS IN PROMOTING THIS + DESIRABLE OBJECT. + + For these purposes it is proposed-- + + That the funds to be raised be one hundred thousand pounds, in + shares of one hundred pounds each. Ten shares to constitute a + director. + + The spot proposed to be fixed on as the point of communication, and + commercial depot, between Great Britain and the interior of Africa + is SAFE AND HEALTHY: it will afford a _direct communication with + Timbuctoo and the interior regions of Sudan_, without being subject + to the uncertainty of securing the favour and protection of the + various sultans and sheiks of the respective territories of the + interior, through which the merchants and traders may pass--a + measure which would have been indispensable in every plan that has + hitherto been suggested for the discovery of those interesting + regions. + + The plan now to be adopted, on the contrary, will be subject to + none of those impediments and uncertainties; but the merchants and + travellers will pass through territories where they need fear no + hostility, but will be received with hospitality and attention by + the natives, who will give them every assistance and accommodation +253 in their progress through their country. + + Connected with this plan, a school for instructing the British + youth in African Arabic, so as to initiate them in the rudiments of + that language previously to their departure for Africa, might be + established, under the direction of JAMES GREY JACKSON, professor + of African Arabic, &c. + + The present scheme has been many years in contemplation, but no + favourable opportunity of making it thus public having hitherto + occurred, it is now offered to the public, in consequence of the + energies lately manifested by France and by America for African + colonisation, and also by Holland. + + The projectors, for the honour of their own country, are anxious + that Great Britain may not, through supineness, suffer this + important discovery to be wrested from her by any foreign power, + but that she should _at least share the glory_ due to this + important achievement, the completion of which would _immortalize + the prince who should cherish it to its maturity_. + + Capitalists, and gentlemen resident in Great Britain, desirous of + further information on this subject, may address themselves to + JAMES GREY JACKSON, whose residence, at any time, may be known at + Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown, London. + + TO THE BRITISH PUBLIC. + + London, 31st March, 1819. + + The above plan is ingenuously, liberally, and disinterestedly +254 submitted to the consideration of British capitalists and merchants + of respectability. The advantages to be derived from such an + establishment as is here contemplated, if not evident to Great + Britain, is clearly visible to Holland, to France, and to America. + + The projector, therefore, without mentioning the offers that have + been made to him by a foreign maritime power, and _without + courting_ the suffrages of British merchants in support of this + plan, has it in contemplation, (_provided no attention is paid to + it in England_,) to lay this eligible scheme open to a foreign + power. If, therefore, the projector should accept employment in + this undertaking from a foreign power, it will be in the + conviction, that _it is more to the interest of mankind in general, + and to Europe in particular_, that this plan for opening an + _extensive, lucrative, and beneficial commerce with Africa_, (which + would necessarily lead to its civilisation,) should be known to, + and adopted by, _a foreign power_, than that this vast and + little-known continent should, (to the indelible disgrace of + civilised Europe,) _still continue to remain_ an useless and an + undiscovered country to the present generation! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the + Trade carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the + Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of + North Africa, and with other States of Sudan_. + + Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and other commercial ports of France +255 and Italy, as well as of Spain, send to Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, + and Egypt, _for the markets of Sudan_, manufactured silks, damask, + brocade, velvets, raw silk, combs of box and ivory, gold-thread, + paper, manufactured sugar, cochineal, and various other + merchandise. + + Great Britain sends to the Barbary ports in the Mediterranean, and + to Mogodor on the Atlantic Ocean (which are afterwards conveyed to + Timbuctoo), for distribution at the several markets of Sudan-- + + _East India Goods, viz._--Gum benjamin, cassia, cinnamon, mace, + nutmegs, cloves, ginger, black pepper, Bengal silk, China silks, + nankeens, blue linens, long cloths, and muslins (mulls). + + _West India Produce_.--Pimento, tobacco, coffee, cocoa, and + manufactured sugar. + + _Linens_.--Dimities, plattilias, creas, rouans, Britannias, + cambrics, and Irish linens. + + _Hardware_.--Iron nails, copper ditto, brass ditto, sword blades, + dagger ditto, guns, gunpowder, knives, &c. &c. + + _Cloths_.--Superfine, of plain brilliant colours, not mixtures, and + cassimeres. And various other articles of merchandise. + + Immense quantities of salt are also sent to Timbuctoo, which is for + the most part collected at the mines of Tishet and Shangareen, (see + the map of northern and central Africa, in the New Supplement to + the Encyclopaedia Britannica,) through which the caravan would pass + to Timbuctoo. +256 + The following are the articles purchased by the Moors and Arab + traders, and are the returns brought back to Barbary from Sudan; + viz. + + Gold dust, and trinkets of pure Wangara gold, of various fashions, + of the manufacture of Housa and Jinnie.--_B'Kore Sudan_ (fumigation + of Sudan), a kind of frankincense highly esteemed by the Africans. + Ostrich feathers (the finest in the world). Elephants' Teeth. + _Korkidan_, so called by the Arabs, being the horns of the + rhinoceros: these are a very costly article, and are in high + estimation among the muselmen, for sword-hilts and dagger-handles. + _Guza Sarawie_ (Grains of Paradise). Gum Copal Assafoetida, and a + great variety of drugs for manufacturing uses, and various roots + for dyeing. Ebony. Camwood. Sandal wood. Indigo, equal to that of + Guatimala: to which may be added, the command of the gum trade of + Senegal. + + All the foregoing merchandise being first landed at Alexandria, + Tripoli, Tunis, Algiers, and Tetuan, and other Barbary ports in the + Mediterranean, _as well as at Mogodor on the western coast of + Africa_, are afterwards sold to the Muhamedan merchants, who sell + them with a very good profit to other Moors. These goods frequently + go through three, four, and five hands, before they reach the + consumer in Sudan, subject to a profit gained by each holder of + from twenty to thirty per cent.; the last purchaser, who conveys +257 them through the Desert, however, expects, and generally obtains, + from fifty to sixty per cent. profit on them, to which he considers + himself entitled, from the fatigue and privations of his passage + through the Desert, during a journey through a country, for the + most part barren, of above fifteen hundred miles in length; through + various kingdoms and principalities, subject to a charge for + (_statta_) convoy at the exit and entrance of each respective state + or district on each side of the Sahara, as well as in the Sahara + itself. + + But, according to the plan here suggested to the commercial + community, all these various articles, instead of passing through + five several hands, would now pass through only two hands, viz. + through those of the shippers in England, and those of their agents + established on _the western coast of Africa_, who would sell them + directly to the Timbuctoo trader, which latter, instead of having + several principalities and kingdoms to pass through (at the exit + from each of which, as well as at the entrance of them, he would + have a charge for protection or convoy, called _statta_, levied on + the goods), would have no convoy-charge, or statta, to pay; he + would have but ten hundred, instead of fifteen or sixteen hundred + miles to go, being about two-thirds of the distance of the road + from Tunis or Tripoli, through Fezzan, to Timbuctoo. + + N.B. There is an immense bank near the contemplated depot, or port +258 (abounding in fish, which now supplies the _wahs_, or cultivated + spots in the desert, as well as the territories on the southern + confines thereof), which produces fish sufficient to supply the + whole of the interior of Africa, as well as the shores of the + Mediterranean, &c. &c. + + _Letter from Vasco de Gama, in elucidation of this Plan_. + + Sir, + + The Society of Encouragement for National Industry in France, has + granted prizes for various discoveries in the arts and sciences; + but I wish government, or some society of our own country, would + offer a liberal prize for the best mode of colonising Africa, and + for meliorating the condition of the inhabitants of that vast and + little known continent. A well-digested plan for the discovery of + this continent might be followed by the most desirable events. The + efforts of the African Association have, to say the least, been + lamentably disastrous; little good can be anticipated from the + efforts of solitary or scientific travellers in a country where + science is not cultivated, and where the travellers know little or +259 nothing of the[173] general language of Africa, or of the manners + and dispositions of the natives. + + [Footnote 173: The general language of North Africa is the + Western Arabic, with a knowledge of which language, a traveller + may make himself intelligible wherever he may go; either in the + negro countries of Sudan, in Egypt, Abyssinia, Sahara, or + Barbary.] + + A knowledge therefore of the _African Arabic_ appears indispensable + to this great undertaking; and it should seem that a commercial + adventurer is much more likely to obtain his object than a + scientific traveller, for this plain reason,--because it is much + easier to persuade the Africans that we travel into their country + for the purposes of commerce and its result--_profit_, than to + persuade them that we are so anxious to ascertain the course of + their rivers! + + Accordingly, it was aptly observed by the Negroes of Congo, when + they learned that Captain Tuckey came not to trade nor to make war; + _"What then come for? only to take walk and make book?"_ + + I do not mean now to lay down a plan for the colonisation of + Africa, or for opening an extensive commerce with that vast + continent, but I would suggest the propriety of the method by which + the East India Company govern their immense territories. _I would + wish to see an African Company formed on an extensive scale, with a + large capital_. I am convinced that such a company would be of more + service to the commerce of this country than the present India + trade, where the natives, _without being in want_ of our + manufactures, surpass us in ingenuity. But the Africans, on the + contrary, _are in want_ of our manufactured goods, and give immense +260 sums for them. According to a late author, who has given us the + fullest description[174] of Timbuctoo[175] and its vicinity, a + _Plattilia_ is there worth fifty Mexico dollars, or twenty _meezens + of gold_, each meezen being worth two and a half Mexico dollars; _a + piece of Irish linen_ of ordinary quality, and measuring + twenty-five yards, is worth seventy-five Mexico dollars; and a + quintal of _loaf sugar_ is worth one hundred Mexico dollars. Now if + we investigate the parsimonious mode of traversing the Desert, we + shall find that a journey of 1500 English miles is performed from + Fas to Timbuctoo at the rate of forty shillings sterling per + quintal, so that loaf sugar (a weighty and bulky article) can be + rendered from London at Timbuctoo through Tetuan and Fas, including + the expense of a land-carriage of 1500 miles at about 6L. per + quintal, thus: + + Refined sugar on board in London for _s. d._ + per cwt. 70 0 + + Duty on importation in any part of + Marocco, ten per cent. 7 0 + + Freight, &c. five per cent. 3 6 + + Land carriage across the Desert on camels + to Timbuctoo 40 0 + ----- + s. 120 6 + ----- + + [Footnote 174: See new Supplement to the Encyclopedia + Britannica, article Africa, page 98.] + + [Footnote 175: See the account of Timbuctoo appended to + Jackson's account of Marocco, published by Cadell and Davies, + London, Chap, 18.] +261 + So that if 100 lb. of loaf sugar rendered, at Timbuctoo cost + 120_s_. 6_d_ and sells there for 100 Mexico dollars at 4_s_. 6_d_. + each, or for 22L. 5_s_. there will result a profit of 270 per cent. + + The profit in fine goods, such as the linens before mentioned, is + still more considerable, not being subject to so heavy a charge for + carriage. The immense quantity of[176] gold dust and gold bars that + would be brought from Timbuctoo, Wangara, Gana, and other + countries, in exchange for this merchandise, would be incalculable, + and has, perhaps, never yet been contemplated by Europeans!!--In + the same work, above quoted, 3d edition, page 289, will be found a + list of the various merchandise exportable from Great Britain, + which suit the market of the interior of Africa or Sudan: and also + a list of the articles which we should receive in return for those + goods. + + [Footnote 176: The Kings, David and Solomon, extracted from + Africa to enrich the temple of Jerusalem upwards of + 800,000,000L. sterling, a sum sufficient to discharge the + national debt; see Commercial Magazine for May 1819, page 6.; + which is eight times as much gold as the mines of Brazil have + produced since their discovery in 1756. See Commercial Magazine + for the same month, page 44.] + + Plans to penetrate to the mart of Timbuctoo (which would supply + Housa, Wangara, Gana, and other districts of Sudan with European + merchandize) have been formed; but if a treaty of commerce were + made with any of the Negro kings, these plans would be subject to + various impediments. +262 + The goods, in passing through hostile territories, (these + sovereigns living in a state of continual warfare with each other,) + would be subject to innumerable imposts; _it would therefore be + expedient to form a plan whereby the goods should reach Timbuctoo + through an eligible part of the Desert_: but some persons who have + been in the habit of trading for gum to _Portandik_, have declared + the inhabitants of Sahara to be a wild and savage race, untractable + and not to be civilised by commerce, or by any other means. This I + must beg leave to contradict: the Arabs of Sahara, from their + wandering habits, are certainly wild, and _they are hostile to all + who do not understand their language_; but if two or three + Europeans capable of holding colloquial intercourse with them, were + to go and establish a factory on their coast, and then suggest to + them the benefit _they would derive_, being the _carriers_ of such + a trade as is here contemplated, their ferocity would be + transferred forthwith into that virtue in the practice of which + they so eminently excel all other nations, _hospitality_; and the + most inviolable alliance might be formed with such a people. I + speak not from the experience of books, but from an actual + intercourse, and from having passed many years of my youth among + them. +263 + An advantageous spot might be fixed upon on the western coast, in + an independent district, where our alliance would be courted, from + which the Kafila[177] or Akkaba would have to pass through only one + tribe with perfect safety, and subject to no impost whatever; + neither would they be subject to any duty on entering the town of + Timbuctoo, as they would enter at the _Beb Sahara_, or gate of the + Desert, which _exempts them_ from duty or impost. + + [Footnote 177: Caravan.] + + That civilisation would be the result of commerce, and that the + trade in slaves would decrease with the increase of our commerce + with these people, there can be little doubt; and, independent of + the advantages of an extensive commerce, the consolation would be + great to the Christian and to the Philosopher, of having converted + millions of brethren made in the perfection of God's image, and + endowed with reason, from barbarism to civilisation, if not to + Christianity!!! + + Let us hope, then, that some of the intelligent readers of your + luminous and interesting pages will direct their attention to this + great national object, and produce ah eligible and well-digested + plan for the cultivation of a mutual intercourse _through the + medium qf commerce with Africa_, and for the civilisation of that + hitherto neglected continent. + + VASCO DE GAMA. + + _Eton, 28th May, 1819_. +264 + + _On Commercial Intercourse with Africa_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + The plan of your correspondent, for opening a commercial + intercourse with the interior of Africa, appears to me so direct + and simple, that I am only surprised it has not been thought of + before. The Moors are the merchants of Africa; the chain of + communication that runs from the states of Barbary to the negro + kingdoms, and from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea. + To judge of the humanity of these people from the accounts of + shipwrecked sailors, whom they have dragged into slavery, and then + liberated for money, would be not less fallacious than to estimate + the character of the English nation from the plunderers of the + wrecks on their coast. From such accounts, the name of Moor has + inspired us with horror; and Park's detention at the camp of Ali, + one of their chiefs, has contributed to confirm it. Park, however, + so far from endeavouring to conciliate his captors, endeavoured, by + his own confession, to appear as contemptible as possible in their + eyes; and yet, with this disadvantage, the greater part of the + miseries he endured proceeded from the climate and the irritation + of his own mind. + + The Arabs of Sahara are the carriers of merchandize throughout + North Africa, and the Moors are in the constant habit of selling +265 gum to the French on the Senegal. The French say they are + perfidious; but they give no proof of it that I have seen. I have + met with a French traveller, who owns that his countrymen deceive + them either in the weight or measure of the gum they purchase. + + Bruce found a friend in every Moorish merchant, and integrity and + intelligence in all. And where should these qualities be found in a + country like the interior of Africa, in which learning has no place + but among merchants? + + So much for the proposed carriers of English goods to Timbuctoo. + Now for the road. The fertile parts of Africa are hot and humid, + unwholesome and dangerous; and the kings are often at war with each + other. Park experienced both these evils; and the wonder was, not + so much that he perished on his second journey, as that he returned + from his first. The Desert is dry and heathful. It is sprinkled + with fertile spots, which form a succession of known + resting-places, and the distance between each requires a certain + number of days to travel. The Moors are at home in Sahara; and, + when they go long journeys, the fertile spots are their inns. The + road from the coast of Sahara is also the shortest that has yet + been pointed out to Timbuctoo. + + If the means of executing the plan appear sufficient, it is not + necessary to say any thing in favour of the object: the exchange of + British manufactures for gold, speaks for itself. But there is no +266 time to be lost. The French settlement of Galam is advantageously + situated for commerce with Timbuctoo: a Frenchman has already + travelled from Galam to that city, I believe on a commercial + speculation, and he has returned safe. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa_. + + When we consider the maritime strength of Great Britain; her + command of the ocean; the vicinity to Europe of West Barbary, one + of the finest countries in the world; the rich and valuable produce + which is cultivated in this country;--when we consider that our + garrison of Gibraltar is in its vicinage, and but a few hours' sail + from it, we are naturally astonished that our communication with + this country is so limited. That we have less commercial + communication with Barbary, than we have with countries that do not + open to us any thing like the commercial advantages that this + country offers, though they are thousands of miles from us. It + appears relevant, therefore, to inquire, whence originates this + impeded intercourse? There are two great impediments to our free + intercourse with Sudan through Marocco: viz., a general ignorance + of the Arabic language, as spoken in the latter country; and the + repugnancy of the Muhamedan religion to that of Christ. With + respect to the first of these impediments, it is remarkable that + this learned language is so little known in Europe,--this language, +267 the most prevalent in the world, a language which is spoken or + understood almost without intermission from the western shores of + Africa on the Atlantic ocean, to the confines of China,--a language + understood, wherever Muhamedans are to be found, throughout all the + populous and commercial regions of Africa, from the Western Ocean + to the Red Sea, and from the Mediterranean to the country of + Kaffers,[178] in the vicinage of the Cape of Good Hope. With + respect to the second of these impediments, the repugnancy of the + Muhamedan religion to that of Christ, it may justly be observed, + that this is not really so great as we are apt to imagine; the + moral principles of Muhamedans being not unlike those of the former + Christians, being in fact a composition of Hebrew and Christian + morality. They acknowledge Jesus Christ to be a prophet, and tell + us, that, in this respect, they are on the safe side, as we impute + no Divine authority to Muhamed. But a most violent repugnance to + Christians has been propagated by the (_Fakeers_) Muselmen saints, + or holy men. They have industriously circulated the belief of an + old superstitious prediction which they have on record, viz. that + the Christians will invade the Muhamedan countries, take their +268 cities and towns, and establish the Christian religion on the ruins + of that of Muhamed, and take possession of the country. These + reports, propagated, as before observed, by the (_Fakeers_) + Muhamedan saints, among the lower orders, have kindled a high + degree of rancour and animosity, (equal to that which the Catholics + formerly indulged towards their protestant brethren,) which will + never be extinguished until a friendly alliance and extensive + commercial intercourse be established with them; which alone can + soften this rancour and animosity into peace and amity. This + animosity has been increased also by the rancorous anti-christian + disposition manifested towards these people by the writings of + Roman catholic priests and others.[179] If these uncharitable + opinions of each other could be eradicated, the blessings that + would result to the Africans would be incalculable; a reciprocal + exchange of good offices might pave the way to purchase of the + Emperor of Marocco the port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz, aptly + denominated, from its contiguity to the Sahara (_Beb Sudan_) "the + gate of Sudan," which, in the hands of the English, would be the + key to the whole of the interior of Africa, and an effectual link +269 in our chain of communication with the interior of that + undiscovered continent; it would moreover secure to us the entire + commerce of those extensive and populous regions, to the exclusion + of our Moorish competitors of Cairo, Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, + Algiers, and other ports of Barbary, who supply the people of Sudan + with European merchandise at the fourth, fifth, and sixth hand. + + [Footnote 178: _Kaffer (or Caffre_) is an Arabic word which + signifies infidels or unbelievers (in Muhamed); the very name + has been given by Muhamedans, and therefore it is to be + presumed that the Muhamedans approximate the countries + contiguous to the Cape.] + + [Footnote 179: See Martin Martinius. Abraham Ecchellensis. + Maccarius, Theolog. Polemic. Peter Cevaller. Robert de Retz, + translator of the Koran. See also the support of this assertion + in Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, enlarged + edition, published by Cadell and Davies, Strand, from p. 196. + to 208.] + + The abolition of the slave-trade cannot be effected until we shall + have substituted some commerce with the Negro countries, equivalent + at least, or that shall be more than equivalent to it, otherwise + the negro sovereigns of Sudan will never be induced to relinquish + so great a source of profit. Every naval officer in His Majesty's + service knows, that if we were to have thirty sail of the line + continually off the coast of Guinea, it would not be sufficient to + annihilate this abominable traffic, or to deter people from + embarking in a trade that yields such extraordinary profits. This + being admitted, as it certainly will be by every intelligent man, + it follows, that the system now in operation by the British + government for the abolition of the slave-trade, will be attended + only with an unnecessary expense to this country, without the + possibility of effecting the desired object; but, on the contrary, + judging from recent events, there is every reason to presume, that + this detestable commerce will increase, as it has continued to + increase, these last two or three years, in spite of all our +270 operations to prevent it; the Spaniards alone having imported into + the island of Cuba more slaves in 1818 and 1819, than in the four + preceding years. The result has been, that that island has + produced, in 1819, more than double the produce of the former year; + their waste lands, accordingly, are in progressive cultivation, + and, if they go on thus improving, that island, in a few years + hence, will produce coffee and sugar sufficient for the supply of + all the markets of Europe. + + Finally, Slavery will never give way to any thing but civilisation; + the civilisation of Africa can never be accomplished but through a + great and extensive commercial intercourse, a commerce that will + _enrich the negroes, and enable them, by a supply of arms, to + contend with and gain an ascendancy over their Muhamedan + oppressors_, who want no other pretext for attacking them, than + that of their being idolaters, which idolatry, it is asserted, + authorises the Muselman to make them slaves. Thus, _the abolition + of slavery must depend on the Africans themselves_; and although it + is in our power to supply them with the means for _their + emancipation_, yet it is absurd to suppose that we can effect it by + our naval operations. If all the great sovereigns of Europe were to + agree to make the trading in slaves piracy, they would not prevent + it. WE cannot emancipate them; _that only can be accomplished by + their own energy_, awakened in them by commercial intercourse, and + its accompanying civilisation. +271 + Much might be done if all the African societies were to unite their + interest, knowledge, and abilities for this desired object. If the + African Company would unite their energies with the African + Association, and with the African Institution, such an union would + promote the civilisation of the African continent, and the + conversion of the Negroes to Christianity. + + ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOSQUES. + + The architecture of this country is of the Gothic character. The + mosques are built somewhat like our churches: the body of the + mosques are covered with green glazed tiles; the steeples are + invariably an exact square, the sides being ten or twelve feet, not + tapering as those of Coventry, but the top having the same + dimensions as the base. At the top is erected a smaller square, + with a flag-staff similar to a gallows, to which is suspended every + day at noon, a white flag, the signal of preparation for prayers; + but on Fridays, the Muhamedan Sabbath, a dark-blue one is + substituted for the same purpose. Some of the mosques are paved + with white and black chequered marble, some are tessellated + pavements, consisting of white, blue, and green glazed tiles, about + two inches square, a very pretty mode of paving, extremely clean, + and has a very cool appearance; others are terrassed, which is lime +272 and small stones beaten down with wooden mallets. They excel in the + art of making terras. The houses are all flat roofed, so as to + resist the heaviest rains: the declivity of the terrasses is so + imperceptible, that it is just sufficient to give the rains a + tendency to the great conduit or pipe that leads to the mitfere + underneath the house, which is underground, and has a terras + bottom, impervious to the water. Here is collected water sufficient + for the family or household during the year; the lime that washes + into the mitfere from the terrassed roof, purifies the water, and + preserves it from worms and other insects. They have no ornaments + in their mosques; but the place where the Mufti or Fakeer reads + prayers, is covered with mats or carpets; the rest of the floor is + bare, and the respective individuals prostrate themselves on the + bare floor, or on an antelope's or _Elhorreh_[180] skin, or the + skin of a lion or tiger, prepared in a superior manner by the + tanners at Marocco, the leather of which is made soft as silk, and + white as snow. + + [Footnote 180: For a description of this curious animal, see + Jackson's Marocco, page 83, Chapter on Zoology.] + + The bodies of the dead are never laid in the mosques or near them, + but are invariably carried out of the town, to some coba[181] in +273 the vicinity. The bodies of the dead are washed, and covered with + lawn, and placed on an oblong wooden machine, resembling a box + without a cover, called a _kiffen;_ it has four legs about six + inches long, to uphold it from the ground, and two horizontal + projections at each end, to place on the shoulders of four men, + generally the nearest relations of the deceased, who thus carry the + body to the grave, chaunting with the whole company, amounting + sometimes to some hundreds, _La Allah, ila Allah wa Muhamed Rassule + Allah_, "There is no God but God, and Muhamed is the prophet of + God." This repetition may appear extraordinary to the English + reader; but let it be observed that the Muhamedans never use the + pronoun for the name of the Omnipotent, but invariably the noun. + The body is taken out of the bier, and laid in the ground, the face + upwards, without any coffin or box, the legs towards Mecca, and + then covered with earth, so that it might, at the resurrection, + rise with its eyes towards (_El Kaaba_) Muhamed's mausoleum. No + money is paid for the ground, nor is any expense paid for a + monument: a stick or a stone stands erect at the head, and another +274 at the feet. If the deceased lived a moral, inoffensive, and + exemplary life, the public, at its own expense, oftentimes erects + (_kaba_) a cubical building with a dome at the top to the departed, + and he is thence denominated (_fakeer_) a saint. + + [Footnote 181: A coba is a cubical building, about forty or + fifty feet square, having a dome on the top, inhabited by a + fakeer; the ground adjacent to this building is consecrated for + the dead, but is never inclosed. The living reverence the dead + by never, riding over these grounds; but travellers, in passing + stop and repeat a fatha. When the ground has been consecrated + to the dead, and the _coba_ has an inhabitant, who must be a + sanctified person, he immediately assumes the name of fakeer or + priest, and the building, and cemetery attached to it, becomes + a _zowia_ or sanctuary.] + + The palaces of this country generally consist of a perfect square + wall, containing from two to forty acres of land, or more; for the + imperial palace at Mequinas covers about two square miles of + ground. At each corner of the square is a cubical building, with an + angular top, of green glazed tiles, having four windows, one in + each side; in the centre of the square is the palace, surrounded by + a colonnade one or two stories high. The pavement is either + tessellated or of chequered marble; some of the walls of the rooms + are also tessellated with arabesque, borders, the ceilings are + painted with gay colours, viz. scarlet, sky-blue, green, yellow, + and orange, in arabesque, and some of them are very elegant. The + houses of the opulent are diminutive imitations of the palaces. The + house of (_the Talb Caduse_) the minister of the Sultan Seedi + Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Marocco, is a building, elegantly neat. + Abd Rahamen ben Nassar's house at Mogodor, is well deserving the + investigation of an European architect, and his magnificent new + house at Saffee, is a model of a particular style of architecture. + Some of the houses of the princes and the military at Mequinas are +275 handsome buildings, and many of the houses of the opulent merchants + at Fas, who have their commercial establishments at Timbuctoo, and + other countries of Sudan, are extremely neat and truly unique, + having beautiful gardens in the interior, ornamented with the + choicest and most odoriferous flowers and shrubs; with fountains of + running water, clear as crystal, delectable to behold in this warm + climate, and such as are not to be seen in any part of Europe. + +276 + + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, + AND + ANECDOTES; + + _Illustrating the Nature and Character of the Country_. + + + + + + INTRODUCTION. + + In recording the following Anecdotes and Fragments the naked truth + is stated, without the embellishments of language, or the labour of + rhetoric, which the wiser part of mankind have always approved of + as the most instructive way of writing; and all such as are + acquainted with books will readily agree with me, that many authors + stretch, even to the prejudice of truth, from an affectation of + elegance of style. + + The following facts, therefore, will form the materials for a + history, rather than a history itself. + + The study of the _language and customs of the Arabs is the best + comment upon the Old Testament_. The language of the modern Jews is + little to be regarded; their dispersion into various nations, +277 having no fixed habitation, being _wholly_ addicted to their own + interest, their conformation to the respective customs of the + various nations through which they are dispersed; have caused them, + in a great measure, to forget their ancient customs and original + language, except what is preserved in the Bible and in the exercise + of their religion. Whereas the Arabs have continued in the constant + possession of their country many centuries, and are so tenacious of + their customs and habits, that they are, at this day, the same men + they were three thousand years ago. Accordingly, many of their + customs, at this day, remind us of what happened among their + ancestors in the days of Abraham. + + _Trade with Sudan_. + + 1795, June 14th. Two (_Akkabas_) accumulated caravans of Gum Sudan, + called in England "Turkey[182] Gum Arabic," have reached the Arab + encampment of Dikna, not far from the northern confines of the + Sahara; and will be at Santa Cruz, in the province of Suse, in a + fortnight. + + [Footnote 182: This gum is conveyed from Sudan to Alexandria, + in Egypt; there it is shipped off for Smyrna, or + Constantinople, and from thence imported into England.] + + _Wrecked Ships_. + +278 A large ship, supposed to be Spanish, bound to Lima, has been + wrecked near Cape Noon; the cargo consists of lace, silks, linens, + superfine cloths, and is estimated by the Jews, at Wedinoon, to be + worth half a million of dollars. + + _Wrecked Ships on the Coast_. + + Extract of a Letter from James Jackson, and Co. at Mogodor, to + their correspondents in London. January, 1801. + + The wine and dollars per the Perola de Setubal, wrecked on the + coast of Suse, have been recovered from the Arabs, by Alkaid Hamo, + the governor of Santa Cruz; and we have just received them safe by + a boat. If this vessel had been wrecked on the coast of Cornwall, + it is more than probable that the cargo would have been plundered. + We have presented the governor with twenty dollars, for his + extraordinary energy, exertions, and great merit in the recovery of + the whole of this property. + + The Prosperous, Captain Driver, a southwhaler, was wrecked near + Cape Noon, in 1790; the crew was redeemed by me, and brought to my + house at Santa Cruz, after being upwards of two years in captivity + in the Desert: and I sent them all from Santa Cruz to Mogodor on + mules, where, after remaining about two months, the Bull-dog sloop + of war came down from Gibraltar for them, and they were sent off to + her by the imperial order. +279 + _Wrecked Sailors_. + + English seamen that are so unfortunate as to be wrecked on the + coast of Sahara, are generally better treated than the French, + Italian, or Spanish, because there is a greater probability of a + ransom; and because it is well known that the English admit no + slaves in their own country. + + _Timbuctoo Coffee_. + + Coffee grows spontaneously in the vicinage of Timbuctoo, _south of + the Nile Elabeed_. I sent a quantity to Mr. James Willis, formerly + Consul for Senegambia: it was of a bitter taste, which is the + general character of this grain before it is improved by + cultivation. + + _Sand Baths_. + + The Arabs bury the body erect in sand, up to the chin, as a remedy + for several disorders, particularly syphilis. + + _Civil War common in West Barbary_. + + In the provinces of Haha and Suse, particularly in the mountainous + districts, intestine wars frequently prevail: kabyl against kabyl, + village against village, house against house, family against +280 family. In these lamentable wars, which so continually disturb the + peace of society, retaliation is considered an incumbent duty on + every individual who may have lost a relation, so that the embers + of hostility are thus incessantly fanned; and this lamentable + revenge pervades whole clans, to the utter destruction of every + humane and philanthropic propensity, converting the human race to a + degradation below the beasts of the field. + + _Policy of the Servants of the Emperor_. + + The Bashaws, and others holding responsible situations in the + empire, are continually purchasing a good name and good report at + court, by courtesy to and by feeing the ministers of the Emperor to + report favourably of them, whenever opportunity may offer. + Incredible sums are sometimes expended in this way. + + _El_[183] _Wah El Grarbee, or the Western Oasis_. + + The prince, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother of the reigning Emperor, + Muley Soliman, purchased, on his return from the pilgrimage to +281 Mecca, a domain in (Santariah[184]) the Oasis of Ammon or Siwah, as + a retreat; and being appointed by his father Seedi Muhamed, viceroy + of the province of Suse[185], he was enabled to give succour to the + Shelluhs, inhabitants of that province, on their pilgrimage to + Mecca, and to entertain them with the comforts of hospitality on + their passage through the Desert. This was the more agreeable to + these Shelluhs, because, after passing a long journey of some + thousands of miles through Sahara, they reached, at Santariah, not + only a territory yielding every comfort and necessary of life, but + a country wherein their own prince had authority, and wherein their + own native language is spoken and understood. + + [Footnote 183: In the Lybian Desert there are three _Wahs_ (or + _Oasises_, as we call them): the greater, called _El Wah El + Kabeer_; the lesser, called _El Wah Segrer_; and the Oasis of + Ammon, called _El Wah El Grarbie_, i. e. the Wah of the West.] + + [Footnote 184: The Wah of the West is also called by the + Mograbines _Santariah_.] + + [Footnote 185: See the map of West Barbary.] + + When this prince's father, the emperor Seedi Muhamed died[186], the + prince Abdsalam engaged Alkaid Hamed ben Abdsaddock, late governor + of Mogodor, to go to Santariah, and sell this domain for him; which + he accordingly did. It is more than probable that the Shelluhs of + Siwah are an _emigration_ from Suse. + + [Footnote 186: About twenty-eight years since.] + + _Prostration, the etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + +282 An ambassador from Great Britain was sent to the court of Marocco, + during the reign of Seedi Muhamed, father of the present emperor, + Soliman. On his arrival at Fas, (where the court was at that time + held,) the (_Mule M'shoer_) Master of the Audience, who was the + (_Sherreef_) Prince Muley Dris, came up to the ambassador and + informed him, that it was customary for all persons coming into the + imperial presence to take off their shoes, and to prostrate + themselves. To these ceremonies the ambassador objected, alleging + that he was received by the king his master with his shoes on; and + that he presumed the Emperor, on a proper representation being made + to him, would not exact from him greater obedience than he paid to + his own sovereign. The master of the audience reported the + interpretation of the ambassador's remarks to his imperial master. + The emperor paused, and (insinuating that the ambassador was + somewhat presumptuous in placing a Christian king on a par with a + Muselman emperor) commanded the prince to dismiss the ambassador + for that time, till the following day. In the interim, the Emperor + urged the master of the audience to make diligent inquiry how the + Christians conducted themselves in the act of prayer before the + Almighty God; and whether they then uncovered their feet, and + prostrated themselves, as Muhamedans did. The morning following, + the master of audience procured the necessary information + respecting this point, and acquainted the Emperor that the English +283 Christians, like the Jews, prayed erect; but that they uncovered + their heads, and bowed at the name of Jesus of Nazareth. "Go, + then," replied the emperor, "and let the ambassador be presented to + me without uncovering his feet, and without prostration; for I + cannot require more obeisance from a foreigner, than he himself + pays to Almighty God." + + _Massacre of the Jews_, _and Attack on Algiers_. + + In the year 1806, when Algiers was attacked by the Arabs of the + mountains, and by the inhabitants of the plains, the Jews of the + city were massacred. It was suggested to the present Emperor of + Marocco that a favourable opportunity now offered to subdue + Algiers, and add it to the empire: but the Emperor replied, "That + it was wiser to secure and keep together all those provinces that + his father had left him, than to endeavour by _uncertain and + expensive_ warfare to extend his dominions, by invading a + neighbouring nation." + + _Treaties with Muhamedan Princes_. + + Treaties of peace and commerce between the Muselmen princes and + Christian powers, are regarded by the former no longer than it is +284 expedient to their convenience. Muselmen respect treaties no longer + than it is their apparent interest so to do. When an ambassador + once expostulated with his imperial majesty for having infringed on + a treaty made, an emperor of Marocco replied--"Dost thou think I + am a Christian, that I should be a _slave_ to my word?" + + _Berebbers of Zimurh Shelleh_. + + This kabyl of Berebbers inhabit the plains west and south-west of + Mequinas. They are a fine race of men, well-grown, and good + figures; they have a noble presence, and their physiognomy + resembles the ancient Roman. The laws of hospitality, however, are + disregarded among them: they will plunder travellers who sojourn + with them, whenever they have an opportunity. + + _The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation_. + + The late emperor, Muley Yezzid, proceeded from Mequinas to Marocco, + with an army of thirty thousand cavalry, to take the field against + the rebellious Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of the province of + Abda, acting conjointly with the bashaw of the province of + Duquella, who had collected an army of eighty thousand men, of +285 which fifty thousand were horse. The Emperor, on his arrival at + Marocco, was exasperated against the kabyls of the south; and was + informed that the merchants of Mogodor had supplied his rebel + subject, Abdrahaman, with ammunition. Enraged at this report, which + the exasperated state of his mind prompted him to believe, he + issued an order to the Governor of Mogodor, implicating the greater + part of the European merchants of that port of high treason, and + ordered their decapitation. This order was brought by one Fenishe, + a relation of Tahar Fenishe; who had been, some years before, + ambassador from Marocco to the court of St. James's. The Governor, + however, suspecting that the order had been issued in a moment of + irritation, delayed its execution, in the hope that it might be + countermanded; or, in hope that the result of a battle would render + it unnecessary to be put in execution.--Soon afterwards, news + arrived at Mogodor that the two armies had met, had fought, and the + Emperor had vanquished his antagonists, who had more than double + his force, but was himself dangerously wounded. This induced the + governor still further to delay the execution; having now + ascertained that the order was obtained by a stratagem of malicious + and ill-disposed people. The next day news came that the Emperor + suffered extremely from a ball in the upper part of the thigh, +286 which the surgeons could not extract. The Emperor, in a fit of + frenzy, from pain or passion, took his (_kumaya_) dagger, cut open + the wound to the ball, and expired soon after. Thus were the + merchants of Mogodor saved providentially from an untimely death. + + _The Emperor Muley Yezzid's Body disinterred_. + + When the united armies of Abda and Duquella were vanquished and + dispersed by the Imperial troops, in the neighbourhood of Marocco, + the report became general that the Emperor was wounded. It is + asserted that several men in ambush had orders to wait their + opportunity to fire at the Emperor, when he should approach; and + when the Emperor did approach the bush wherein these men lay + concealed, they all fired. It appears, however, that only one shot + had effect. The Emperor finding himself wounded, instead of being + discouraged, was reanimated to the combat, and entered into the + midst of it; a soldier by his side observed to him, that he was + wounded, and whilst expressing his hope that it was not dangerous, + the Emperor, with one stroke of his sabre, cut off his head! Even + after the death of this redoubted warrior, the people trembled, + doubting the truth of his decease. Abdrahaman went personally to + Marocco and had the body disinterred to ascertain the fact, + suspecting that the report of his death might be a stratagem; but +287 having ascertained it, he returned to Saffy, and his brother Muley + Esslemmah was immediately proclaimed by Abdrahaman. Doubts of the + Emperor's death still pervaded the minds of men: it was reported + that he had been seen in the Atlas Mountains, in Draha, in Suse. At + length a person somewhat resembling him in person, appeared between + Wedinoon and Ait Bamaran (see the map): the panic took; and men + from all parts of the country, who had known the Emperor, hastened + to Wedinoon to ascertain the fact. Many who were too curious were + shot by order of this pretender, to prevent the possibility of + their returning to give notice of the imposture. The immense number + of persons who now believed him to be Yezzid was incalculable; his + party increased and multiplied, and he soon had thousands of + followers who supported his cause. The infatuation of the vulgar + and the bulk of the community was astounding; for the renowned + Muley Yezzid, like his Majesty George IV., was the first horseman + in his empire, and the most accomplished gentleman: whereas + Buhellesa[187], for so he was called in derision, was so bad a + horseman that he generally rode a mule. + + [Footnote 187: So called from his generally riding a mule, with + a large stuffed saddle, rising high before and behind, covering + the whole of the mule's back, and forming a very secure seat. + This enormous and ponderous saddle-mattras is called _Hellesa_; + and as the Pretender rode on it, he was called _Bu Hellesa_; + that is the father of a _Hellesa_.] +288 + This man was reported to be an adept in the occult sciences; and it + was both reported and credited, that the occult art enabled him to + multiply corn and provision for the army to any quantity he might + want. I was established at Santa Cruz, which was three days' + horse-travelling from Buhellesa's standard; the (_Shereef,_) Prince + Abdsalam, brother to Yezzid, was then resident there, and Viceroy + of Suse. It was the Prince Abdsalam's desire to destroy this + pretender; for his army and followers exceeded now thirty thousand + men, the Prince sent to Muhamed ben Delemy, khalif of Suse, and + sheik of the Duleim Arabs, whose castle was about thirty miles + south of Santa Cruz. Delemy and the Prince were sworn friends: the + latter proposed to him to give battle to Buhellesa, and so prevent + the empire from being usurped. Neither Delemy nor the Prince had + funds to raise an army; so that neither of them knew what steps to + take. _Delemy, however, with the true spirit of a Bedouin Arab, + supported his friend in his adversity,_ and promised to exert + himself to counteract the operations of the arch-hypocrite + Buhellesa. Collecting the sheiks of the various kabyls of Suse, he + made an energetic harangue to them; and discussed with them the + expediency of their uniting together, to repel the impostor. The + sheiks were all loyal, and well affected to Muley Abd Salam; whose +289 government of Suse, by his khaliff Delemy, added to the + hospitalities with which the Prince entertained the people of Suse + at his domain, the _Wah el Grabie_, or the Oasis of Ammon, called + _Santariah_, ingratiated Muley Abd Salam so much in their favour + and esteem, that they all unanimously (_passed l'aad_[188]) joined + hands, and determined, each individually, to raise his respective + kabyl to support the cause of Muley Abd Salam. In a short time they + raised an army among themselves of ten thousand horse, and + determined to attack Buhellesa, so soon as he should begin to move + forwards, and before he should reach Terodant, in his way to + Marocco; for there he had a strong party, which would augment his + forces. The hero Delemy, who was as valiant a soldier as Muley + Yezzid himself, and as expert and dextrous in the management of the + horse, determined therefore, with less than half the force of his + antagonist, to attack him, before he should be able to gather more + strength. The army of the sheiks joined, and proceeded towards + Wedinoon. At night they learned that Buhellesa, with an army of +290 22,000 men, mostly horse, having been apprised of Delemy's + preparations and movements, had proceeded through Ait Bamaran + towards Shtuka, and that he intended to attack Delemy's castle. On + hearing this, the army halted for an hour, and returned towards + Shtuka again. In the morning they came up with Buhellesa, who was + encamped about four hours south of Delemy's castle. The march of + Delemy's troops, all hardy warriors and men of valour, was so + rapid, that Buhellesa was taken by surprise. The battle lasted + seven hours; during which Delemy's brother was wounded and + unhorsed, in the midst of the enemy's troops: but being unknown, + and in a similar dress with the rest, he recovered himself by the + assistance of some friends, sent to him by his brother the khalif, + and was enabled to rejoin his own troops. Buhellesa was so hard + pressed, that he made his retreat into a house: on being attacked + there, his pistol missed fire, and he was overcome. They + immediately cut off his head and his arms, when his army dispersed, + most of them making the best of their way to Wedinoon. That same + night, the man of Shtuka, who first attacked Buhellesa, was + dispatched with his head and feet to Muley Abd Salam, at Santa + Cruz. + + [Footnote 188: The _L'aad_ of the Arabs is a joining of hands, + without Shaking: the palms of the right hands of the parties + coming in contact with each other, and the thumbs over each + other. This is a solemn obligation among them; a calling God to + witness their resolution of mutual assistance, offensive and + defensive; a swearing to stand by each other till death; an + obligation that nothing can dissolve; such a pledge, that if a + man were to break it, he would be execrated and rejected from + society!] + + The reported approach of Buhellesa, with so strong a force, had + urged me to ship all the property I could collect; and I was on the +291 beach early the following morning, directing the shipment of my + property; when taking a ride along the beach, I met an Arab, with a + basket before him, and a foot sticking out of it. "_Salam u alik_," + I exclaimed, "And what have you got there?"--"_Alik Salam_," said + the Arab, "I have got Buhellesa's head and feet here: I killed him + myself; and the khalif Delemy has sent me with them to the Prince. + Dost thou think the Prince will reward me?"--"Certainly," said I, + "for such an essential service." The Prince gave the Arab one + hundred duckets[189]; the guns were fired; and the head and feet + were hung over an embrasure of the round battery, facing the south. + Thus terminated the career of Buhellesa. + + A short time after this, I was on a visit to Delemy, and he + accompanied me to the field of battle; which was an undulating + plain, not unlike that of Waterloo: and the house to which + Buhellesa made his escape, was not unlike the hotel de la Belle + Alliance on the plains of Waterloo, having, however, a flat roof. + + [Footnote 189: Worth 5_s._ each, but equal to 100_l_., or more, + in that country.] + + _Shelluhs: their Revenge and Retaliation._ + + A Shelluh, of the province of Suse, had been a servant in the house +292 of Mr. Hutchison, British Consul at Mogodor fifteen years; but it + happened to be twenty years since a relation of his, in Suse, had + been killed, to whom he was the next of kin but one: but the next + of kin dying, it devolved upon him to seek retaliation; no + opportunity, however, having occurred, he determined to go to Suse + to fulfil this his calling. Now above twenty years had elapsed + since the death or murder of the relation of Bel Kossem, the + Consul's servant. This man, foregoing the eligibility of his place, + apprised the Consul of his intention to leave him. Mr. Hutchison, + who esteemed him not a little for his long and faithful services, + was astonished to hear of his determination to depart; and, + apprehending that he might want an increase of pay, he offered to + increase it: but Bel Kossem told him that an imperious duty + devolved on him to revenge the blood of his ancestor. Accordingly + he received his wages, and departed forthwith for Suse. A few + months afterwards he found an opportunity of killing his enemy, + which being done, it was expected that this Shelluh would now + return to Mogodor, and resume his place again; but by a parity of + reasoning, it devolved to the next of kin of the man recently + killed to seek revenge for his murdered relation, but Bel Kossem, + to avoid the like fate, went into a distant country. This duty of + revenging death, is rigidly pursued among the Shelluhs, so that one + murder often produces ten, or even twenty deaths; each revenging + his relation or next of kin. +293 + _Travelling in Barbary._ + + It is extremely difficult, whilst travelling in this country, to + ascertain from the natives the distance of any (_douar_) encampment + of Arabs: the general answer to such a question is (_wahud saa_), + "an hour," but this is a very indefinite term, being used for a + distance from two to twelve miles, or more; therefore, as these + people have no definite notions of time or distance, the only way + of ascertaining distances, is by knowing the rate at which the + caravan goes, which is a regular pace, and consulting your watch; + by this means, the distance of any journey, however long, may be + accurately ascertained. + + _Anecdote displaying the African Character, and showing them to be + now what they were anciently, under Jugurtha._ + + A Muhamedan was sent to prison, for having killed a man; and after + remaining there some time, it was expected that the Emperor's order + would come to have him shot, or to have his right hand cut off, + with which it was presumed he killed his enemy. A friend of the + prisoner, willing to liberate him, that he might escape the + punishment that awaited him, engaged a person well acquainted with + the prison to procure his enlargement; accordingly he promised him +294 a sum of money, if he would effect this purpose. It was agreed that + the money should be paid. The liberator was then to prove to the + man advancing the money, that he had accomplished his purpose. The + night in which his liberation was to be attempted was fixed on; + ropes were ready to enable the prisoner to escape over the + prison-wall. In the mean time the next of kin of the man who had + been murdered, sought the blood of the prisoner, and was persuaded + by the man that had engaged to liberate the prisoner, that the + latter was not in prison, that he had made his escape, but that the + former would undertake to put him in his power, so as to enable him + to accomplish his revenge. This was agreed to, and accordingly a + sum of money was paid as a remuneration for the service. All + matters were arranged, and the person who paid the money was + desired to be on the rock, near the prison, outside of the town + wall, at two o'clock in the morning, and there he would find his + enemy. The person who made the first engagement was directed to be + at the same spot at three o'clock. In the mean time the liberation + was effected at two o'clock, and the prisoner was informed that his + friend would meet him under the rock at three o'clock, to conduct + him to a place secure from discovery. Soon after two o'clock, the + next of kin to the person whom the prisoner had killed came and +295 plunged a dagger into his heart; afterwards came the other man, and + saw the body of his friend, whom he recognized. On expostulating + with the liberator, the latter replied, "I have executed my + engagement to liberate your friend; I am entitled to my reward: + what has happened to him since his liberation is no concern of + mine; see you to that. But I should inform you, that soon after his + liberation, I saw a man approach, and fearing that I was + discovered, I ran and hid myself under a rock. In a short time I + returned and found your friend weltering in his blood. When I + approached him, he had just time before he expired to name to me + his murderer, who, he said, was the next of kin to the man he had + himself killed."--Note, The Shelluhs consider it a duty incumbent + on them, each, individually to revenge the blood of their family; + that they are bound to seek the murderer, if possibly he can be + found. Such is their invariable attention to this principle of + revenging blood for blood, that I have known instances of men who + have relinquished eligible appointments, to go into distant + countries, several years after a murder has been committed, to + revenge the death of a relation, after becoming, by intervening + death, the next of kin of the murdered person. + + The lamentable effects of this fatal retaliation is such, that one + death often produces twenty murders, and afterwards involves whole + kabyls in intestine wars. +296 + It is remarkable, that the more duplicity they use in these horrid + transactions, the more merit is ascribed to the agent; who is + praised in proportion to the extent of his ingenuity, or duplicity, + as was the case with the liberator above mentioned. + + _Every Nation is required to use its own Costume._ + + The Jews in West and South Barbary, have a predilection for the + European costume, in preference to their own, the former being + respected, the latter not: moreover the character of a _merchant_ + is highly respected by the Moors, and the European dress is a kind + of passport to a man as such. One day, the Emperor seeing in the + place of audience, at a great distance, a gentleman, apparently an + European ambassador, ordered the master of the audience to go and + see who he was, and what nation he represented; but it being + discovered that he was a Marocco Jew, his scarlet and gold dress + was torn from him, and a _burnose_, (a large black cloak, the + costume of the Jews of the lower order,) was put over him, when he + was buffetted and kicked out of the place of audience. The Emperor + was exasperated at this circumstance, which he considered a vain + deception: he ordered his secretary to write to all the ports in + his dominions, to desire that Jews should wear the _burnose_, that +297 Christians only should wear the European costume, and Moors and + Arabs theirs; so that thus every individual might be known by their + respective dress. On this occasion, an opulent Hebrew merchant at + Mogodor felt so much the insults he was exposed to, from wearing + the Jewish costume, that he actually paid several thousand dollars + to obtain the privilege he had formerly enjoyed, which, in + consequence of his being an opulent man, and a foreign merchant, + was granted to him. + + The name of this gentleman would here be mentioned to gratify the + curious; but as it might give umbrage to his family, and as the + intention here is only to describe the character and manners of the + country, there is, I conceive no necessity for stating + personalities. + + _Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under that Name._ + + This extraordinary character visited Marocco about the year 1805 or + 1806. He pretended to be a native of Aleppo, called in Arabic + _Hellebee_, and was known by the name of Seed Hellebee, which + signifies "the gentleman of Aleppo." Europeans, as well as himself, + since his return to Europe, have converted this name into Ali Bey, + of the family of the Abassides. This gentleman possessed abilities + of no ordinary degree, he was supplied with money in abundance by +298 the Spanish government. He had not been long at Mogodor, when his + munificence began to excite the suspicion of the governor, as well + as the admiration and applause of the populace. Adopting the + costume of the country, he professed himself to be a Muselman; and + as a pretext for not speaking the[190] Arabic language, he + pretended that he had gone from Aleppo, the place of his nativity, + to England when very young, and had forgotten it. He had, as he + declared, considerable property in the Bank of England. Being + desirous of collecting all the information possible respecting the + country, he procured two young Spanish renegado musicians, who + played on the guitar, and sung Arabic airs and songs, with which he + affected to be highly delighted, these musicians, however, served + his purpose in another way; for, being apprehensive of creating + suspicion by direct enquiries, he prevailed on these renegadoes to + procure the information he desired, by giving them from time to + time several questions to which they procured direct answers, as + reported by the natives. + + [Footnote 190: He afterwards learned the Arabic language, and I + believe spoke it tolerably well when he quitted this country + and proceeded to Mekka.] + + One day he gave a _fete champetre_ at (_L'arsa Sultan_), the[191] +299 Sultan's garden, situated near a very picturesque rivulet, and + contiguous to springs of excellent water, which being collected in + a large tank, was conveyed by an aqueduct, which extended the + length of the garden, to immerge or irrigate the various beds of + flowers and plants. On his return home, as he was crossing the + river near the village of Diabet, a Shelluh shot a large fish as it + was passing the shallows, Seed Hellebee, or Seed Ali Bey admired + the dexterity of the Shelluh, (who, from his quickness, was + nicknamed Deib, i.e. the fox,) and desired him to take the fish to + his house at Mogodor, which he accordingly did, and received from + Ali Bey's secretary a handful of dollars. This Shelluh was a keen + sportsman, and seldom or never missed his shot: he generally + accompanied me in my shooting excursions, and he told me this + circumstance himself, adding, that Ali Bey was such a liberal man, + that, where any other gentleman gave a dollar, he gave a handful. + It was in this manner that Ali Bey purchased his popularity. + + [Footnote 191: This garden is in the province of Haha, about + five miles S.S.E. of Mogodor, and belongs to the European + Commerce, to whom it was presented by the Late Emperor Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah.] + + The governor of Mogodor, Alkaid Muhamed ben Abdsaddock now began to + suspect, not only the faith of this _soi disant_ Muhamedan, but + that he had some design unavowed; and desirous of ascertaining to + what nation of Christendom he belonged, the governor engaged + Monsieur Depras, a respectable French merchant of Mogodor, who + understood several languages, to ascertain if he was a Frenchman, +300 and if not, who and what he was. The governor, in order to enable + M. Depras to converse with Ali Bey, invited them both to tea; this + introduction being effected the next day, Depras called on Ali Bey, + and conversed with him during an hour in the French language, which + he spoke so well, that the former thought there was no doubt of his + being a Frenchman. But soon after this, the Spanish Consul was + announced, and being introduced, Seed Ali Bey changed his discourse + to Spanish, which he also spoke so correctly, that Depras now + altered his opinion, and conceiving him to be a Spaniard, took his + leave. He then reported to the governor what he had seen and heard, + that he spoke French and Spanish so fluently, that he really did + not know whether he was a Frenchman or a Spaniard. + + Ali Bey continued to live in a most sumptuous and costly style, and + afterwards resolved to visit Marocco. On his journey thither, he + was particularly inquisitive respecting the population, produce, + names and residencies of the (sheiks) chiefs of Haha and Shedma, + through which provinces he passed. On his arrival at Marocco, he + still continued his magnificent establishment and sumptuous mode of + living; distributing money to the people bountifully, on the most + trifling occasions, which mode of conduct procured him universal + popularity among the lower orders. This soon excited the suspicions +301 of Alkaid Bushta, the governor of Marocco, who ingenuously informed + him, that such liberality was fit only for a Christian country, and + that he was mistaken if he flattered himself that it would be + tolerated at Marocco, and actually desired him to adopt a different + and a more parsimonious system, if he wished to be quiet; alleging, + that his munificence exceeded that of his Imperial Majesty, which + was highly indecorous; but afterwards finding little attention was + paid to his injunction, he published a decree throughout the city, + that any one that should be found asking for, or receiving money + from Ali Bey, should have a very severe bastinado! After residing + some time at Marocco, he expressed a desire to visit the Atlas + mountains, which appear a few miles east of Marocco, but which are, + in fact, a whole day's journey; their immense size and height + making them to appear so much nearer than they really are. Ali Bey + apprehending the hostility of Alkaid Bushta, he procured an + imperial order to visit the Atlas, but Bushta opposed it, and would + not, he said, permit him, he being governor of Marocco, without + having himself directly from the Emperor a permission to that + purpose. He then represented to the Emperor the impolicy of + allowing him to go and examine that country; and the imperial order + was immediately countermanded. + + People now began to imagine that he was an agent of Bonaparte; and + their suspicion that he was a Christian spread far and near. It was +302 discovered also that he had corns on his feet, excrescences unknown + to Muselmen, whose shoes are made tight over the instep, and loose + over the toes, so that the latter being unconfined and at liberty, + they never have corns. + + Notwithstanding all these suspicions, the courtesy and suavity of + the manners of Ali Bey had such influence on the imperial mind, + that Muley Soliman gave him a beautiful garden to reside in, + wherein there was a (_koba_) pavilion. Ali Bey, finding his + influence considerable, erected with architectural taste several + edifices, suited, as he thought, to the imperial _gusto_, in which + he succeeded so well that his Imperial Majesty, when he returned + the next year to Marocco, resided almost exclusively in one of the + pavilions which he had erected. + + The splendour of the imperial favour did not however continue long; + for Ali Bey began now to be suspected by the Emperor himself, and + it was bruited that his renegadoes had acted treacherously towards + him. + + Ali Bey's knowledge of astronomy was peculiarly gratifying to the + Emperor. He could not altogether withdraw from him his attention. + The Emperor urged him to take unto himself a wife, and become an + useful member of society; but Ali objected, alleging various + motives for refusing. He was however at length prevailed on to + comply with the imperial injunction, and the Emperor gave him a +303 young girl to marry. It was anticipated that his new wife was a + political one, and would betray him to be an uncircumcised dog. The + wife, however, became extremely attached to him, and no information + could be procured from her to favour the plot that had been laid + for him. Various suspicions having increased respecting him, the + Emperor finally resolved that he should quit his territory; and an + order was issued that himself, his wife, and slaves should be + escorted to the port of L'Araich, and there embark for Europe. When + the military guard, however, had reached the port of L'Araich, the + boat being ready, Ali Bey was desired to embark, when, not + suspecting any stratagem, the boatmen pushed off, leaving his + disconsolate wife on the beach, bewailing his abrupt departure. The + lady appeared deeply affected with this sudden and unexpected + separation; and jumping out of the litter tore her dishevelled + hair, and distributed it to the winds, and with loud shrieks, which + pierced the air, demonstrated to him how sorely she lamented his + premature departure, and violent separation. His principal slave + was sold, by order of the Emperor's minister, to Seed Abdel'mjeed + Buhellel, a merchant of Fas, who was lately in London, and the + money was given to his wife. + + During his residence at Fas, he predicted an eclipse, and, having + foretold to the people of that city, that it would happen at such a +304 time, they waited for the event with considerable curiosity. Now + his knowledge of futurity had spread abroad with demonstrations of + amazement; the eclipse happened precisely at the time he had + predicted, which established his fame as an (_alem min alem_), a + man wiser than the wise. + + During the latter part of his residence in West Barbary, a report + prevailed that Bonaparte was preparing an immense army to invade + and subjugate the country. Ali Bey was not only suspected to be his + secret agent, but some persons were even ridiculous enough to + declare that he was Bonaparte himself in disguise; and accordingly + he was denominated _Parte_, for they would not add _Bona_, as that + word signifies good, in the _lingua franca_ of Barbary, and + Bonaparte, they said was not good, but a devil incarnate; so they + called him Parte. Last year I met in London the Moor who had + purchased Ali Bey's slave, and he told me that his son by the + before-mentioned wife lives at Fas; that he is a very amiable and + intelligent youth, about fifteen or sixteen years of age; and that + he is very poor, and would have starved, but for the charity and + protection of the highly respected fakeer of the city of Fas, Muley + Dris, under whose roof he resides, and is indebted to him for + protection and patronage. This man would be an acquisition to the + African Association, and means might be adopted to engage him in +305 their service to explore Sudan. + + _The Emperor's Attack of Diminet, in the Atlas_. + + The emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah levied a powerful army, and + took the field against Diminet, in the mountains of Atlas, east of + Marocco. The people of Diminet, and the territory of Berebbers, + east of that country, had also levied a strong force to defend + themselves. The Diminets were taken by surprise; for they had not + had intimation of an attack from Marocco. The Emperor himself, with + a few attendants disguised in the Berebber dress, advanced a few + miles ahead of the army. A party of mountaineers had received + orders from their sheik, (when the latter was informed that the + Emperor's army was coming against them,) to seek the Emperor, and + endeavour to kill him. They mistook the Emperor and his party for + Berebbers, as His Majesty spoke the language correctly, and had in + the early part of his life lived among them. "Where is the + Emperor's guard?" the mountaineers enquired; "for we are in search + of them: we hear he is coming to attack us, in our inaccessible + mountains; but we will be beforehand with him, and dispatch him + before he reaches us. Dost thou know where he is, or where his + guard is." "We do know," replied the Emperor; "for, about an hour + behind us, we passed a few men on horseback, among whom was the + Emperor; but the army is a long way behind: if you make speed, you + will soon pass him, and it will be an easy matter for you to put +306 the whole party to the sword, for they are not a dozen altogether." + The Berebbers, elated with this news, communicated from a party + whom they mistook for brethren of the neighbouring kabyl, rode off + at speed to seek their enemy, and in a short time found themselves + surrounded by the Emperor's army, who were scattered about in + ambush. These Berebbers were all secured, and were threatened with + torture if they would not discover where the army of their brethren + was, and what was their plan. The party discovered the plan and the + place of their encampment, which was not far off in recesses of the + mountain, and received a promise of remuneration if found correct. + By this discovery, the imperial army was enabled to surprise the + rebels; the latter were dispersed, and their houses burned. Thus + were they prevented from _harassing_ the Emperor's army, which is + their ordinary mode of warfare. To subjugate these people would be + impossible: it has often been attempted, but never succeeded. The + only lien the Emperor can get of them is, by having at court about + his person their sheik, whom he then makes answerable for the + obedience of the kabyl. + + _Moral Justice_. + + The imperial army being encamped in Temsena, on the confines of +307 Tedla, (see the map,) an Arab chieftain found that a friend of the + Emperor came into his _keyma_[192] at night, and took liberties + with his wife. The Arab suspected that he was (_shereef_) a prince, + and therefore did not dare to kill him, but preferred a complaint + to the Emperor. The Emperor was vexed to hear of such a gross + breach of hospitality, and asked what time he made his visits? "At + one hour after midnight," the Arab replied. Then, said the Emperor, + "when he comes, do you let me know by giving the watch-word to this + man, and he will then know what to do; and depend thou on my seeing + justice done to thee for the aggression." The marauder came; the + Arab repaired to the guard of the imperial tent, and gave the word; + the guard apprised the emperor, as he was directed, who personally + repaired to the tent of the Arab, and, being convinced of the fact, + ran the man through with his lance; this was done without a light. + The body was brought before the tent, and it was discovered to be + an officer of the imperial guard. The Emperor, on seeing that it + was not a shereef (a prince) prostrated himself in fervent prayer + for a considerable time. The courtiers who were all assembled by + this time to witness this extraordinary occurrence, wondered what + could induce the Emperor to be so fervent in prayer; which his + majesty observing, told them, "that he went alone to the tent, +308 thinking that nobody but a shereef would have dared to commit such + a breach of hospitality, in so open a manner; therefore he killed + him without having a light, lest, on discovering him to be a + prince, personal affection might give way to justice; but that when + he discovered that it was not a relation, he returned thanks to God + Almighty, that, in his determination to have justice administered, + he had not killed his own son!" + + [Footnote 192: _Keyma_ is the name for an Arab's tent; they are + made of goats' hair, and are black.] + + _Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers of Atlas_. + + March 10, 1797. The Sultan Soliman proceeds with a powerful army + against the warlike province of Shawiya, the rebellious Arabs' + retreat. The imperial army takes some of the women who are renowned + for personal charms. The army can get no food; and, being in danger + of starving, returns to Salee. The Arabs promise submission, in + hopes of having the women restored; but the Emperor's officers + violate them. The Arabs swear vengeance (_alia l'imin_[193]) by + their right hand. The emperor attacks them again, is repulsed, and + returns to Fas. + + [Footnote 193: _Alia l'imin_, swearing by the right hand, is a + sacred oath; and those who take it will not swerve from its + obligation, which is peremptory.] + + _Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans_. + + One of the Emperor's ministers, when an English fleet was cruising +309 off Salee, and just after some impost had been levied on the + merchandise already purchased and warehoused by the Christian + merchants, suggested the impolicy at that moment, of harsh measures + against Europeans: the Emperor, in a jocose manner, asked what harm + he could suffer from the fleets of Europeans? "They could destroy + your Imperial Majesty's ports," replied the minister. "Then I would + build them again for one-half what it would cost them to destroy + them. But if they dared to do that, I could retaliate, by sending + out my cruisers to take their trading ships, which would so + increase the premiums of insurance (for the (_kaffers_) infidels + insure all things on earth, trusting nothing to God[194]), that + they would be glad to sue for peace again." + + [Footnote 194: The Muhamedans abuse the Christians for their + mistrust of Providence, exemplified in their insuring ships, + merchandise, &c.] + + _Political Deception_. + + When an embassy is going to the Emperor, the alkaid of the escort + endeavours to make the present, which necessarily accompanies every + embassy, as bulky and conspicuous as possible, that the Arabs of + the kabyls through which they pass, may be dazzled and astounded + with the great appearance of the presents, which the alkaid + proclaims to consist chiefly of money, or treasure. The Arabs + accordingly observed, on Mr. Matra's (the British consul) presents, + that the English, who had conquered Bonaparte in Egypt, and were + masters of the ocean and seas, yet were tributary to the Sultan. + This idea is industriously propagated by the officers of the + Emperor's court. "Thinkest thou," they ohserved, "that these + Christians give such large presents with a free-will? Certainly + not! They are compelled to do so. The (_Romee_) Europeans are too + fond of money to give it away in such loads,--even the English, + thou seest, are tributary to the Seed." [195] + + [Footnote 195: A higher title among the _true Arabs_ than + Emperor: it implies conjointly, Emperor, Father of the People, + Protector, and Brother.] + + _Etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + + The European commerce of Mogodor went to pay their respects to the + Emperor Seedi Muhamed, on his arrival, from Fas, at Marocco, as is + customary. The Emperor's son, Muley El Mamune, was master of the + audience, and ordered the commerce to advance into the imperial + presence; and standing barefooted, as is the custom before the + Emperor, he requested the merchants to take off their shoes, as + _he_ had done; but they expostulated, and said it was not their + custom. The Prince, however, stopped them, and would not allow them + to approach the imperial presence without first submitting to this + ceremony. Seedi Muhamed, observing the impediment, and knowing the +311 cause, but willing at the same time to initiate the young prince in + the custom of foreign countries, called his son to him, and said, + "What do muselmen do, when they enter the _Jamaa_?"[196] "Revere + the holy ground, by entering barefooted," replied the prince.--"And + what do the Christians, when they enter their church?"--"They take + off their hats," rejoined the Prince. (_Allah e berk Amer + Seedi_,[197]) "God bless your Majesty's life."--"Then, what would + you more of these my merchants, than that they pay me, even the + same respect that they pay when they pray to _Allah_. Let them + approach uncovered, with their shoes on, which they never take off, + but to go to bed to rest". + + [Footnote 196: An Arabic or Korannick word, signifying, the + congregation of prayer, or mosque.] + + [Footnote 197: A term invariably used at court, in addressing + the Emperor.] + + * * * * * + + The province of Ait Atter, or the Atterites, in Lower Suse, is + considered as an independent province, and it pays no tribute. They + have a great dislike to _kadis_[198], _talbs_, and attornies, + alleging that they only increase disputes between man and man, + which is not at all necessary; all disputes are, therefore, decided + by the sheik, who is not a logical wrangler, but decides according +312 to the simplest manner. The following decree of their sheik is on + record:-- + + "Four men conjointly bought a mule, which for elucidation, we will + call A, B, C, and D: each claimed a leg. D's leg was the off-hind + one. In a few days this leg began to swell: it was agreed to cure + it by (_el keeh_) burning it with a hot iron, (a common remedy in + this country.) This done, the mule was turned out, and went into a + field of barley. Some spark was attached to the hoof, and set fire + to the corn, which was consumed. The proprietors of the barley + applied to the sheik for justice; and A, B, C, and D, the owners of + the mule, were summoned to appear. The sheik, finding the leg which + caused the barley to be burnt, belonged to D, ordered him to pay + the value of the barley. D expostulated, and maintained that he had + no right to pay; for, if it had not been for A, B, and C's portions + of the mule, the barley would have remained. "How so?" replied the + sheik. "Because," quoth D, "the leg which belongs to me cannot + touch the ground; but it was brought to the corn-field by the legs + of A, B, and C, which were the efficient cause of the ignition of + the barley. The sheik reversed his decree, and ordered A, B, and C + to pay the damage, and D got off without expense. + + [Footnote 198: _Kadis_, i.e. judges. _Talbs_, i.e. record + writers. _Kadi_ is generally spelt by the Europeans of the + south _Cadi_, because they have no K in their alphabet: the + Arabs have no C; the letter is _Kaf_ or K, not C.] + +313 + _Customs of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas, viz. of Idaultit_ + (_in Lower Suse_.) + + The mountains of Idaultit are inhabited by a courageous and + powerful people, strict to their honour and word, unlike their + neighbours of Elala. They make verbal contracts between themselves, + and never go to law, or record their contracts or agreements, + trusting implicitly to each other's faith and honour. If a man goes + to this country to claim a debt due, he cannot receive it while + there, but must first leave the country, and trust to the integrity + of the Idaultitee, who will surely pay when convenient, but cannot + bear compulsion or restraint. They do not acknowledge any sultan, + but have a divan of their own, called _Eljma_, who settle all + disputes between man and man. These people cultivate the plains, + when there is no khalif in Suse; but when there is, they retire to + the fastnesses in their mountains, and defy the arm of power; + satisfying themselves with the produce of the mountains. + + _Connubial Customs_. + + The (_shereef_) Prince Muley Bryhim, son of the present Emperor + Soliman, was married to the daughter of the bashaw Abdrahaman ben + Nassar, who was powerful and rebellious, and prevented the Emperor + for some time from proceeding to the south. This couple was married +314 in 1803. The bashaw died the same year; and in 1805 she was + divorced, and sent by the Emperor to Mogodor, with orders to a + sheik of Shedma to marry her, it being considered a degradation for + a prince to be united to the daughter of a rebellious subject. This + happened in January, 1806. The widow of the late Prince Muley + Abdrahaman, who rebelled against his father, and who was elder + brother to the Emperor Soliman, has been recently sent by the + Emperor to Bu Azar, a negro bashaw, and governor of the city of + Terodant, in Suse, to marry her. These marriages are promoted by + the royal decree, to prevent the females from contaminating the + royal blood by illicit connection, if they remain divorced, without + a new husband. + + _Political Duplicity_. + + A fakeer having interceded in behalf of a state prisoner, his + friend, who was confined in the island of Mogodor (the state prison + of the empire, except for princes, who are sent to Tafilelt), the + Emperor assured him he would release him; and urged the fakeer to + proceed to Mogodor, and wait there his Majesty's arrival. The + fakeer departed, and soon after his arrival at Mogodor, he learned + that the Emperor was not going there; but the alkaid of Mogodor + showed him a letter from the Emperor, ordering him to retain the + prisoner in safe keeping, and not attend to what the fakeer should + say. This system of breaking engagements and promises, is too often +315 denominated policy. "Dost thou think I am a Christian," said an + emperor to a prince who was expostulating with him for not + fulfilling his engagements,--"Dost thou think I am a Christian, to + be a slave to my word?" + + Senor P. a Spanish merchant, received a letter from the Emperor, + directed to the (_alkaid_) governor of Rabat, ordering him to show + Senor P. every attention, and to assist him if he should be + desirous of establishing a house at Rabat. Senor P. left the court + at Mequinas, well satisfied with his letter; but a few days after + his arrival, the alkaid told him he must embark and quit the + country in twenty-four hours, by the Emperor's order, which he + showed to Senor P. who could read Arabic. He was obliged to embark + immediately. + + _Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco_. + + If the Emperor should enquire about any person that has recently + died, it is not the etiquette to mention the word "death,"--a + muselmen is supposed never to die;--the answer is _Ufah Ameruh_, + "his destiny is closed," or "he has completed his destiny." To + which the following answer is invariably given--_Allah e Erhammoh_, + "God be merciful to him." If a Jew's death is announced to any + muselman prince, fakeer, or alkaid, the expression is, _Maat hashak + asseedi_, "He is dead, Sir." _Ashak_ is an Arabic idiom, the exact + meaning of which cannot easily be conveyed in English; but it may +316 be assimilated to--"Pardon me for mentioning in your presence a + name contemptible or gross (as Jew)." Thus, for further elucidation + to the enquirer after the peculiarities of language, _Kie 'tkillem + ma el Kaba hashak asseedi_,--"He is talking with a prostitute--your + pardon, Sir, for the grossness of the expression." + + If a man goes to the alkaid, to make a complaint against any one + for doing any indecent act, and in relating the circumstance he + omits the word _hashak asseedi_, the persons present will interrupt + him thus,--_Kul hashak b'adda_, "Say _hashak_ before you proceed." + Blood, dung, dirt, pimp, procuress, prostitute, traitor, &c. &c. + are words that (in correct company) are invariably followed by the + qualifying word _hashak_. + + If a Christian is dead, the expression is _Mat el kaffer, or Mat el + karan, or Mat bel karan_, "The infidel is dead, the cuckold, or + the son of a cuckold is dead." + + _Food_. + + _Kuscasoe_ is, flour moistened with water, and granulated with the + hand to the size of partridge-shot. It is then put into a steamer + uncovered, under which fowls, or mutton, and vegetables, such as + onions, and turnips, are put to boil: when the steam is seen to + pass through the _kuscasoe_ it is taken off and shook in a bason, + to prevent the adhesion of the grains; and then put in the steamer + again, and steamed a second time. When it is taken off, some +317 butter, salt, pepper, and saffron, are mixed with it, and it is + served up in a large bowl. The top is garnished with the fowl or + mutton, and the onions and turnips. When the saffron has made it + the colour of straw, it has received the proper quota. This is, + when properly cooked, a very palatable and nutritious dish. + + _Hassua_ is gruel boiled, and then left over the fire two hours. It + is made with barley not ground into flour, but into small particles + the size of sparrow-shot. It is a very salubrious food for + breakfast, insomuch that they have a proverb which intimates that + physicians need never go to those countries wherein the inhabitants + break their fast with _hassua_. + + _El Hasseeda_ is barley roasted in an earthen pan, then powdered in + a mortar, and mixed with cold water, and drank. This is the + travelling food of the country--of the Arab, the Moor, the + Berebber, the Shelluh, and the Negro; and is universally used by + travellers in crossing the Sahara: the Akkabas that proceed from + Akka and Tatta to Timbuctoo, Houssa, and Wangara, are always + provided with a sufficient quantity of this simple restorative to + the hungry stomach. + + _The Woled Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the + Plains of Marocco_. + + This populous, powerful, and valiant kabyl, during the former part + of the reign of the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of +318 the present Emperor Soliman, occupied the plains west of the city + of Marocco (being an emigration from the Bedouin tribe of the same + name in the Sahara); but their depredatory disposition made + travelling through their territory unsafe; wherefore the Emperor, + after endeavouring in vain to make an example of them, issued a + decree that they should all to a man leave his dominions, and they + were driven by his army out of their country to the south, and + entered the Sahara. The whole kabyl was thus outlawed, so that they + were plundered and killed as they passed through the plains of + Fruga, Ait Musie, Haha, and Suse, by the natives of those countries + respectively. Not half the number that emigrated, (which was some + thousands,) reached the original clan in the Sahara. + + _The Koran, called also El Kateb el Aziz_. + + The word Koran conveys the same signification as _Bible_: it means + "the reading" or "the book;"--_kora_, "to read; "_el Kateb el + Aziz_, i.e. "the dear or beloved book," meaning thereby the + _Koran_. + + _Arabian Music_. + + The Sultan Seedi Muhamed, after hearing the musical band of the + Marquis de Vialli, ambassador from Venice, expressed his + gratification at the music of the Italians, and laconically + observed that it possessed more harmony than that of any other + nation, excepting his own. +319 + _Sigin Messa_. (_Sigilmessa_.) + + The country of Sigin Messa, called in the maps Sigilmessa, was the + state prison of the kingdom of Suse, when it formed a part of the + empire of Muley el Monsore, in the twelfth century of the Christian + era. Messa, a port in Suse, was then a large city, and the capital + of the kingdom of Suse. The state prisoners were sent to a place of + safe keeping, which was east of Tafilelt, and was therefore called + Sigin Messa, i.e. the prison of Messa. + + _Mungo Park at Timbuctoo_. + + In the month of March, 1806, a letter was received at Mogodor by + Seedi L'Abes Buhellal Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo. + This letter was in Arabic, and the following is an extract + literally translated from it by myself:-- + + "A boat arrived a few days since from the West at Kabra, having two + or three Christians in it. One was (_rajel kabeer_) a tall man, who + stood erect in the boat, which displayed (_shinjuk bied_) a white + flag. The inhabitants of Kabra did not, however, understand the + signal to be emblematic of peace, and no one went to the boat, + although it remained at anchor before Kabra the whole day, till + night. In the morning it was gone." + +320 _Troglodytae_. + + The Shelluhs of the Atlas, south-east of Santa Cruz, in Suse, + during the rainy season, from November till February inclusive, + live in caves and excavations in the rocks and earth; laying up + provisions sufficient for that period, until the snow begins to + melt. The Berebbers of North Atlas have followed the same custom + from time immemorial. + + _Police of West Barbary_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne, he gave indefatigable + attention to the police. He wished, he said, to make the roads safe + for travellers, from the Desert, or Sahara, to the shores of the + Mediterranean. He was vigilant in discovering thefts, and rigorous + in punishing them. If any one was robbed, he had only to report it + to the Emperor, who would forthwith order the douar where the + robbery was committed to restore the sum stolen, and to pay a fine + to the treasury of the same amount. By adhering strictly to this + system, he improved the revenue, and made travelling perfectly + safe; so that one may travel now (1805), without danger, with + property or money, from one end of the empire to the other. Before + this system of policy was renewed, (for it is an old law of the + land,) travellers with property were obliged to have a _statta_: + thus, if a caravan was going from Terodant or Marocco to Fas, it + took a _statta;_ that is, two men, natives of the district of +321 Rahamena, who accompanied the caravan in safety to the confines of + their territory; they then received a remuneration, and delivered + over the caravan to two men of Abda, who conducted it to the border + of Duquella: it was then delivered into the hands of two Duquella + Arabs; and so it went through the different provinces till it + reached Fas, under the protection, through each province, of a + _statta_, each of which _statta_ receives a remuneration. So that, + by the time of arrival at Fas, the merchandise was sometimes + subject to a charge of 8 or 10 per cent. for _statta_ or convoy + through the various provinces. + + Before the Emperor Soliman thus established his authority, caravans + of gums, almonds, ostrich feathers, gold-dust, &c. &c. from Suse, + were sometimes twenty days going from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, a + distance of less than one hundred miles, the _statta_ being changed + and paid at the entrance of every kabyl, of which there are twelve + in the province of Haha alone; the camels being also changed at + every change of _statta_, increased the charge on the merchandise + to an immoderate amount. It would be a great acquisition to + England, if His Majesty were to negociate with the Emperor of + Marocco for the port of Santa Cruz; for the province of Suse + produces in abundance olive oil, almonds, and gums; worm-seed, + annis-seed, cummin-seed, and orchilla; oranges, grapes, + pomegranates, figs, melons, &c. This port was farmed, during the + reign of Muley Ismael, for an annual stipend. It is the key to +322 Sudan, and a communication might be opened on an extensive scale + from hence with Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and other regions of + Sudan, so as to supply, in a few years, the whole of the interior + of Africa with British and East-India manufactures. + + _Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed_. + + This prince, who was elder brother of the present Emperor Soliman, + had accumulated considerable treasure in executing the office of + (_khalif_) viceroy of the provinces of Duquella, Abda, and Shedma. + His father, jealous of his son's power, when supported by a command + of treasure, had recourse to the usual means of transferring it to + the imperial treasury. It is held as law in this country, that + little is sufficient for every purpose of life. When property + becomes accumulated, it is alleged that more than a sufficiency is + derogatory of the principles laid down in the Koran, and ought to + revolve to the national treasury, there to be deposited as a fund + in reserve against the invasion of the country by the Europeans, an + event, which they are quite sure, from an ancient tradition, will + happen at no very distant period. + + Abdrahaman, however, equally avaricious with his father, objected + to deliver up his treasure; which so irritated the Sultan, that he + ordered a party of his negro soldiers to go to the Prince's house + and seize every thing valuable. These men, in their thirst for + plunder, out-ran their discretion, as it appears; for they +323 proceeded to examine the ladies in the Horem, putting their base + hands on their persons, under the pretence of discovering if they + had concealed their jewels and gold. This outrage roused the + Prince's indignation and he lost no time in absenting himself for + ever from his father's dominions, for this insult on his + dignity.--"If my father," said the Prince, "had taken my treasure, + it would have passed from my hands to his; but to permit the + ignoble hands of slaves to offer me such an indignity, is more than + I can or will suffer." Abdrahaman therefore emigrated to the + province of Lower Suse, on the confines of Sahara, where he + remained encamped, ready, upon any alarm, at a moment's notice, to + penetrate into the Desert. He had always two _heiries_ ready + saddled at the gate of his (_keyma_) tent; one for carrying his + treasure, viz. gold dust and jewels, and the other for himself to + ride, on any emergency. Many fakeers were sent from the Sultan to + the Prince; with the most solemn assurances of his reconciliation, + and with urgent solicitations to him to return; but the Prince + never forgave or forgot the insult. + + _Anecdote of Muley Ismael_. + + Muley Ismael compared his subjects to a bag full of rats.--"If you + let them rest," said the warrior, "they will gnaw a hole in it: +324 keep them moving, and no evil will happen." So his subjects, if + kept continually occupied, the government went on well; but if left + quiet, seditions would quickly arise. This sultan was always in the + tented-field: he would say, that he should not return to his palace + until the tents were rotten. He kept his army incessantly occupied + in making plantations of olives, or in building: rest and rebellion + were with him synonymous terms. + + Before the Portuguese transplanted their African colonies to South + America, they had penetrated far into West Barbary; they frequently + made incursions into the country from Mazagan to Marocco, and + eastward of that city. They had a church near Diminet, on the + declivity of the Atlas, about thirty-five miles east of Marocco, + which is still existing: it is a kind of sanctuary; the Berebbers + say it is haunted; they will not approach it. There is said to be + an inscription on the building in Roman characters, over the + entrance; but I never could ascertain what it is. + + _Library at Fas_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne there was a very + extensive and valuable library of Arabic manuscripts at Fas, + consisting of many thousand volumes. Some of the more intelligent + literary Moors are acquainted with events that happened formerly, +325 during the time of the Roman power, which Europeans do not possess. + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, was perfectly acquainted + with Livy and Tacitus, and had read those works from the library at + Fas. It is more than probable that the works of these authors, as + well as those of many other Romans and Greeks, are to be found + translated into the Arabic language, in the hands of private + individuals in West and in South Barbary. This library was + dispersed at the accession of Muley Soliman, and books commenting + on the Koran only were retained; the rest were burned or dispersed + among the natives. + + _Deism_. + + Deism was very prevalent throughout the empire. When the present + Emperor Soliman came to the throne, the deists went about in large + numbers, exclaiming, _La Allah ila Allah_, "There is no God but + God." The Emperor soon silenced these people, by proclaiming that + if any should be found uttering this truth, without adding, + "Muhamed is his prophet," should ([199]_ekul lassah_) be beat. The + sect soon disappeared. + + [Footnote 199: This punishment is inflicted by two men, one on + each side; the culprit is stretched naked on the ground, and + beat on the back unmercifully, with sticks two yards long, and + as thick as a finger.] + +326 + _Muhamedan Loyalty_. + + An alkaid of a district in the province of Abda, when that province + submitted to the Emperor, went to His Majesty, taking with him the + fruit of his government, viz. 100,000 dollars. He prostrated + himself before the Emperor, and announced that he had brought this + money to the Muselman treasury, being what he had collected since + the death of the Emperor's father. "I have lived splendidly, and + have never wanted any thing, or I should have brought Your Majesty + much more treasure." "You have been," said the Emperor, "a faithful + servant, and you shall be rewarded." He was promoted to a + government, and had many opportunities of refunding his loss. A + large sum was returned to him for his fidelity. + + _Cairo_. + + The city of El Kahira is called by Europeans Cairo. When Kairo was + founded, in the 359th year of the Hejra, the planet Mars was in + ascension; and it is Mars who conquers the universe: "therefore," + said Moaz, (the son of El Mansor) to _his_ son, "I have given it + the name of El-Kahira."[200] + + [Footnote 200: El Kahira is the Arabic for the planet Mars, and + signifies _victorious_.] +327 + _Races of Men constituting the Inhabitants of West and South + Barbary, and that Part of Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt and Sejin + Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the Territories of the present + Emperor of Marocco_. + + _The Moors_, who inhabit the towns on the coast, and the cities of + Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, and Terodant; who speak a corrupt Arabic + language. + + _The Berebbers_, who appear to be the Aborigines, and who retain + precisely the same character that was anciently given of the + Mauritanians by Sallust. These people inhabit the mountains of + Atlas, north of the city of Marocco, and have a language peculiar + to themselves. They are a hardy race of warriors, as artful as they + are indefatigable in war; when attacked by the imperial troops, + they defend themselves valiantly; and, by stratagem and device, + often surprise and defeat the Emperor's best troops, the _abeed + Seedy Bukaree_. They call the Negro and Arab troops of the Emperor, + (_maden el grudder_), a mine of deceit, and never trust to their + vows and promises, even if they swear by the Koran. They are a + restless turbulent race, and have never been conquered. They have + adopted the Muhamedan doctrines. + + _The Shelluhs_, or inhabitants of the Atlas, who dwell in houses in + the mountains south of Marocco, in the province of Haha, and in +328 part of Suse. These are a weaker race, not so athletic and robust + as the Berebbers. Their language has been represented to be similar + to that of the Berebbers, but that is evidently a mistake; I have + travelled through their country, and through the country of the + Berebbers, and have conversed with hundreds, nay, I may say, with + thousands of them: I have no hesitation in declaring them to be a + different race. Their language, costume, and habits differ; the + Shelluhs, however, possess the same art and duplicity with the + Berebbers. + + _The Arabs_, who live in _douars_ of tents, and inhabit the immense + plains west of the Atlas, are the agriculturists of the country. + They form the principal population of this terrestrial paradise; + they are for the most part emigrations from the Sahara, several + centuries ago, and speak the true Arabic language. These are a fine + race of men, possessing, in a superlative degree, some of the + noblest qualities of the human race. To these may be added + + _The Jews_, who wear a distinguishing costume, and a black cap; + they are all engaged in trade, and form one-seventh of the + population of the walled habitations. They are held in great + contempt, and are treated very rudely by the Arabs, and therefore + are seldom met with among the encampments of that people. + + A _douar_ is a village of tents; these tents are made of goats' and + camels' hair; they are made by the females, are of a close texture, +329 extremely warm, and impervious to the rain: thus they are cool in + the summer, and warm in the rainy season. In countries exposed to + the attacks of neighbouring kabyles, they are arranged in a + circular form, covering sometimes several acres of ground, having a + large keyma or Arab tent in the centre of the circle, which serves + for a _jamma_, or meeting for morning and evening prayers, and at + other times for an _emdursa_, or seminary, where the Muhamedan + youth are taught to read the Koran, and to write, as they call it, + (_Sultan men Elsen_) the sultan of languages, or language of + languages. The tent-pegs of the respective tents are indented + within each other, so that the cattle cannot go out or in; + moreover, a hedge of thorny bushes encircles the whole, secured by + staves drove into the ground. The camels, horses, mules, horned + cattle, sheep, and goats, are all inclosed in a division of the + circular area during the night, and a fire is kept all night, to + keep off the lions and wild beasts. The incessant barking of dogs, + which are very numerous among the Arabs, prevent the travellers + unaccustomed to these habitations from sleeping. + + _Various Modes of Intoxication_. + + All nations have some method of getting rid of reason, for the + purpose of indulging in the vacuum and temporary independence + produced by intoxication. We, of Europe, have recourse to wine to + effect this purpose: the opulent indulge in the libations of +330 claret, burgundy, and champagne; the middling classes have recourse + to brandy, rum, and gin; but the African effects this purpose at + far less expense. A muselman procures ample temporary relief from + worldly care for a mere trifle: he buys at the (_attara_), drug + shop, for a penny, a small pipe of _el keef or hashisha_; this + completely effects his purpose. The leaves of this drug, which is a + kind of hemp, are called _el hashisha_; the flower of the plant is + called _el keef_, and is much more powerful in its inebriating + quality than the _hashisha_, but a pipe of the latter will have as + powerful an effect as two or three bottles of wine. It is said, + that when the patient is under the influence of pleasant + imaginations, the fume of this drug increases the sensation into + the most pleasing delirium, engendering the most luxuriant images, + and promoting a voluptuous vacuum. But when the person's ill fate + tempts him to taste it in a melancholy mood, it protracts the + gloomy moments, and gives the woes of life a longer duration: he + utters sighs and lamentations, he apprehends nothing but misery and + misfortune, till the effect of the drug is exhausted, and he awakes + from his dream of woe. + + _Division of Agricultural Property_. + + Agricultural property is ascertained by a large stone laid at each + corner of a plantation of corn, a direct line is drawn from stone +321 to stone at the season of reaping; it has, perhaps, never been + known, that these partitions have been removed for the purpose of + encroachment; a mutual confidence, and a point of honour renders + this mode of discriminating the respective property of individuals + adequate to every purpose of hedge or ditch. + + _Mines_. + + The mountains that separate the province of Suse from that of + Draha, abound in iron, copper, and lead. Ketiwa, a district on the + declivity of Atlas, east of Terodant, contains also mines of lead + and brimstone; and saltpetre also, of a superior quality, abounds + in the neighbourhood of Terodant. In the same mountains, about + fifty or sixty miles south-west of Terodant, there are mines of + iron of a very malleable quality, equal to that of Biscay in Spain, + from which the people of Tagrasert manufacture gun-barrels, equal + to those made in Europe. At Elala in Suse, in the same ridge of + mountains, are several rich mines of copper, some of which are + impregnated with gold: they have also a rich silver mine, the metal + of which latter is cast in round lumps, weighing two or three + ounces each piece. I have bought of this silver at Santa Cruz, and + have paid Spanish dollars for it, weight for weight; it is very + pure. Mines of antimony and lead ore are also found in Suse, +332 impregnated with gold, some specimens of which I sent to England to + be analyzed; but being informed that it yielded gold sufficient + only to pay the expenses of purifying, I gave no farther attention + to it, although I have had reason to think, since then, that an + importation of the ore would amply pay the importer. + + _Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, called by the Arabs + Butelleese; and its Remedy_. + + During my residence at Santa Cruz, I had a cousin with me who was + afflicted with this disorder. When the sun sat his blindness came + on, and continued till the rising sun. This youth was so afflicted, + during a month, with this disorder, that he could scarcely see his + way with a candle in his hand, so that it was quite painful to see + him groping about. An Arab of the Woled Abbusebah Kabyl, who retain + much of the science and art of their ancestors, and whose + prosperity I had promoted at Santa Cruz, by facilitating his + commercial adventures, communicated to me a simple remedy for this + disorder; I put no faith in it, for it was so simple that I was + disposed to think it an illusion. He called on me, however, + repeatedly, and finding I had not applied it, he brought it one + morning himself, and urged me to try it, I did so; and that same + evening the eyes of the youth were almost well, and his sight was +333 completely restored the following night. This ophthalmic affection, + in an Arabic translation of Hippocrates, is called _Butelleese;_ + another translation of ancient date calls it _Shebkeret:_ the name, + however, by which it is known at the present day in Africa, is + _Butelleese:_ the Latins called it _Lusciosus_, which word denotes + precisely the disease, viz. one who sees imperfectly in the morning + and evening twilight, but whose vision is clear at broad day-light. + _Lusciosus ad lucernam non videt. Vesperi non videre quos lusciosos + appellant_. Plaut. Mil. Gl. ii. 3. + + This ophthalmia has been by some denominated _hen-blindness_, from + the circumstance of hens' eyes being thus affected, when they are + unable to see to pick up small grains in the dusk of the evening. I + have frequently seen fowls thus affected soon after going to sea, + from the coast of Africa, after which they decline and grow sick. A + quantity of small gravel should be spread in their coops at sea, + which prevents this disorder, and will sometimes cure it. At the + commencement of this complaint, the circumstance that first engages + the patient's attention is the dimness of his eye-sight at + twilight: the nocturnal dimness of vision was such, in the instance + before-mentioned, that the youth could scarcely see, even with a + candle in his hand, which he described, as seen by him, as if it + were misty, or as glimmering in a thick fog. There was no external + disfiguration visible in the eyes, but they appeared as usual. +334 + What the cause of this disorder was I am unable to say; but I have + often suspected that it was contracted from the shining of the sun + on the white terras of the house where my cousin used to go of a + morning to shoot _tibeebs_, a bird somewhat resembling the European + sparrow. This youth was rather of a weak or delicate constitution. + I did not repeat the above remedy, as the boy's eyes continued + well, without any defect in the vision at any time of the day or + night, till seven-and-twenty days had elapsed, when the disorder + returned. I procured the remedy again, and he took it; it had the + same effect as before; he took it again, and then continued well + for a month. It again returned a third time, and was cured by one + single administration, after which it entirely disappeared, and + never returned. Some time after this, I was informed that the + British fleet in the Mediterranean was affected with this disorder; + that one-tenth, or more, of the crews of our ships had laboured + under it; and, on my return to England, I was urged to represent to + His Majesty's ministers, that I had an infallible remedy for the + disorder. I was referred to Doctor Harness, of the Transport Board. + I waited on the Doctor, and afterwards corresponded with him. He + appeared very desirous of knowing the remedy; but he was not at + liberty to grant me any remuneration for it. I, however, offered to + discover it, on being reimbursed the sum which the remedy cost me, +335 on experimental proof being produced of its infallibility; which + proposition was rejected by the Transport Board in August, 1812, + who informed me at the same time, that the Lords Commissioners of + the Admiralty did not judge proper to grant the sum required by me + for the discovery of the remedy for Nyctalopia, which, I should + add, was between 500_l_. and 600_l_. The remedy, therefore, remains + a secret to this day. + + A celebrated electrician and galvanist having conversed with me + lately respecting this remedy for Nyctalopia, suggested to me the + probability, that the same remedy might be effectual also in _gutta + serena_, as both those disorders are known to proceed from a defect + in the optic nerve. This opinion he corroborated, by quoting, in + confirmation of it, the opinion of a well-known author. The + electrician perceiving my incredulity, or more properly, my + ignorance of the wonderful connection that exists between the + intestines and the head, was prompted, as I verily believe, by a + philanthropic disposition; and actually proved to me, + experimentally, the influence which the eyes have on the + intestines, and _vice versa_. A patient with a _gutta serena_, who + had been, as he informed me, twelve months under the hands of a + celebrated oculist, was recommended by the latter, as a last + resource, to try galvanism. He had received no benefit whatever + whilst under the direction of the oculist above alluded to, but his + intestines were intolerably deranged by the effects of the mercury +336 which he had taken. This gentleman galvanised his eyes, and the + man, who is a gunsmith, told me, that when he first went to have + the operation performed, he could not see the red border round the + hearth-rug in the front parlour, but when he returned into that + room, after having been galvanised, he assured me he saw it + plainly. He moreover declared that his bowels had been, and then + were, in a very deranged state, from the effects of the mercury + which he had taken, but that he felt incredible relief after having + been galvanised, and that, two or three days afterwards, they were + quite restored to health and strength. Being thus satisfied with + the influence that so wonderfully exists between the intestines and + the eyes, I am now making arrangements with the same gentleman, to + administer the remedy for the benefit, _as we hope_, of patients + afflicted with _gutta serena_. But I now declare to the public a + third time, that the remedy is simple, safe, and effectual, and + that I am ready and desirous of administering it to any one who may + choose to apply for it, who is afflicted with the disorder, with my + positive assurances, that it will effect a cure in eight-and-forty + hours at the utmost, but probably in twenty-four. + + _Vaccination._ + + Intelligence received from West Barbary was instrumental in +337 promoting the adoption of vaccination. In the latter years of the + last century, the small-pox pervaded West and South Barbary. Mr. + Matra, the British consul-general to the Empire of Marocco, wrote + to me at that period officially, to procure him every information + possible, and to inform him if I could discover if cattle in this + country were subject to the small-pox. I made every inquiry without + delay, and I reported to His Excellency, (who was ambassador as + well as consul), that I had ascertained that the horses, mules, + asses, and oxen were subject in this country to the small-pox, of + which there could be no doubt, as the name given to the disorder in + the beasts of the field, was the same as that which designated the + small-pox in the human species, viz. JEDRIE. In consequence of this + information, confirmed afterwards by other enquiries, His + Excellency wrote to England on the subject, and, I believe, sent + some vaccine pus home; soon after which Dr. Jenner began his + experiments on vaccine inoculation, which have since been adopted + throughout Europe, and in great part of Asia and America. Although + I was thus instrumental in the propagation of vaccine inoculation, + yet I never asked for or received any remuneration; but I feel a + satisfaction in having been thus instrumental of good to mankind, + in this new and eligible system of inoculation, by means of which + human life has been preserved; for, according to Sir Gilbert +338 Blane's late statement, 23,134 lives have been saved during the + last 15 years by vaccination. + + _Game_. + + All kinds of game are plentiful in South and in West Barbary; viz. + _el gror_, a bird somewhat similar to the English partridge, but + unknown in Europe. I shot some of these birds for Doctor Brussonet, + the naturalist, who was intendant of the national garden of botany + at Montpelier, which that gentleman prepared in the oven, and sent + to the National Institute at Paris. He informed me this bird was a + non-descript. Hares, antelopes, woodcocks, snipes, plovers, + bustards. There is an abundance of partridges, red ducks as large + as geese, ducks, wigeon, and teal; curlews, in immense quantities, + are found in the flat parts of the country on the coast; immense + quantities of doves, wild pigeons, wood-pigeons, and large + sand-larks. Every person is at liberty to shoot; but the princes + and the great, consider field-sports beneath their dignity, except + hawking, and hunting the wild boar, the lion, and the tiger. The + Muhamedans do not prefer game to other food. When they have shot a + bird, they immediately cut its throat, that the blood may flow + freely; otherwise it is not lawful to eat it. Game is never seen in + the public markets. When they shoot for Europeans, they dispense + with the ceremony of cutting the throat of the game. They reproach + the Christians for eating such food, which they call (_m'jeefa_) + "strangled." +339 + _Agriculture.--Mitferes._ + + The agriculturists, in all the Arab provinces throughout this + empire, have subterraneous caverns or apartments, generally in the + form of a cone, for the preservation of their corn during a + scarcity or famine. During my residence in this country, I have + investigated the method, and have learned the art of constructing + these depositories of grain. They season them before the corn is + deposited. They should not be constructed in a clay soil. In these + _mitferes_, throughout the Arab provinces of Duquella, Temsena, + Shawiya, &c. they preserve the corn sound during thirty years. I + have been present at the opening of them after the corn had been + deposited twenty-one years. It was perfectly sound. When these + depositories are opened, each family takes a portion of the grain, + so as to distribute the whole immediately; otherwise, in a few + months, if not consumed, it acquires a peculiar bad flavour, which + is called the _mitfere_ _twang_. To prevent this, an Arab, on + opening one of these depositaries, lends corn to all his + neighbours, and in his turn he receives it back again, when they + respectively open theirs. It is unnecessary to expatiate on the + expediency of constructing _mitferes_ in a country oftentimes + visited by locusts, the plague, drought, or inundation. There would + be a manifest policy in establishing similar granaries in our +340 colony in South Africa, where I understand they are visited by + locusts, and where the soil is similar to that of West and South + Barbary. All the valuable gums that Barbary now supplies Europe + with, and also many articles of commerce not yet known at the Cape, + might be procured from Barbary, and if transplanted to that colony, + would undoubtedly thrive, from the similarity of climate and soil. + + _Laws of Hospitality_. + + The territory of the Emperor of Marocco, west of the mountains of + Atlas, and from the shores of the Mediterranean to the confines of + the Shelluh province of Haha, is one continual corn-field, + inhabited by Arabs living in douars or encampments: much of the + ground, however, lies fallow. These encampments are fixed generally + at a considerable distance from the track of travellers, so that a + person unacquainted with this circumstance, would be disposed to + imagine the country thinly inhabited. The tents in safe countries, + where there is no fear of wild beasts, are pitched in a straight + line; but where lions or other ferocious animals are found, the + tents are disposed in a circular form; and thorny bushes are placed + round the douar, to prevent the visits of these unwelcome guests. + The Arabs are the agriculturists of the country, and are for the + most part emigrations from the original stock in Sahara. These + people have preserved from time immemorial the practice of open and +341 unrestrained hospitality. Their prophet confirmed these + propensities; and hospitality has been ever since, the predominant + virtue of the Arab. Accordingly, Muhamedans are entitled, through + their various journeys, to be entertained three days wherever they + sojourn. A traveller, therefore, when he chooses to rest from the + fatigue of his journey, goes to one of these douars and exclaims + (_Deef Allah_) "the guests of God." The sheik then comes forth from + his tent to receive him or them: (_Kheyma Deaf_) the travellers' or + guests' tent is appropriated to the stranger; food is brought to + him, agreeably to his rank in life, but always simple, good, and + wholesome. Here he may remain, if he chooses, for three days, + without being considered an intruder, and free of all expense + whatsoever. If he wishes to exceed the three days allowed by the + Muhamedan law, he must prove his poverty; which being done, he may + be entertained for a further period of time: but this latter is + quite optional; no man is compelled to entertain and provide food + for strangers and travellers, without remuneration, above three + days. + + This hospitality extends not generally to all mankind, but to + Muhamedans only. A Christian or a Jew would be expected to pay a + trifle for his entertainment; although, in travelling through the + province of Suse, the Arabs have absolutely refused to take any + remuneration from me; but, that is not generally the case, nor +342 ought such conduct to be expected: in the instances + before-mentioned, these people considered themselves so much + benefited by the opening of the port of Santa Cruz, that they + thought they could not do enough for me. I was, therefore, every + where received in that province with the most cordial marks of + disinterested hospitality. + + The laws of hospitality are sacred and inviolable. This I will + elucidate, by relating a circumstance that happened while I was at + Marocco. The Emperor was dissatisfied with the conduct of four + sheiks of Suse: they had not discharged the duties of their public + vocation, but had abused their office; the Emperor had issued + orders to arrest them, but by some means they got intelligence of + the orders; they therefore immediately ordered their horses, and + decamped in the evening from Marocco: they knew they should not be + safe any where from the Emperor's grasp, but under the protection + of the Khalif Muhamed ben Delemy, whom, however, they had in some + manner injured; nevertheless, knowing the noble character of the + man, they were resolved to try their fate; accordingly, they made + haste to reach the gates of his castle in Shtuka, before the + Emperor might discover their departure. They arrived, and + exclaiming _Deef Allah_, they were admitted. Delemy told them, that + although they had not behaved friendly to him, he would protect + them. His gates, he said, were always open to the children of +343 adversity, and they might depend on his protection. The Emperor + soon discovered, by diligent enquiry, what route they had taken, + and His Imperial Majesty urged Delemy to deliver them up; but the + latter expostulated, and observing that he should not deserve the + name of an Arabian sheik, if he degraded himself by giving up those + who had claimed his protection, in his own country: and he actually + granted them protection several months; till, at length, finding + they could not escape the hand of power, by any plan but that of + going into the Sahara, Delemy agreed to see them safe out of the + Emperor's dominions, and accompanied them to Akka, and beyond that + place, till they reached the Sahara, where, being perfectly safe, + he took his leave of them, and they exchanged _Salems_. + + _Punishment for Murder._ + + If a man commits murder, the friends of the murdered claim redress + of the alkaid, if in a town,--of the bashaw of the province, if in + the country. If the murderer is discovered, he is taken into + custody, to suffer death, unless the relations of the murdered man + choose to compromise with the relations of the murderer: in which + case, a sum of money is paid to the former, and the matter is thus + settled. + + _Insolvency Laws._ + + An insolvent cannot be detained in prison after his insolvency is + ascertained. He gives up his property to his creditors; but if he +344 should afterwards become a man of substance, his creditors can + claim the amount of their debts, deducting what they have already + received. + + _Dances_. + + The dances of the Arabs are peculiar to themselves. The youths + dance without females, and the females without youths. On all + marriages and rejoicings, music and dancing continue till the dawn + of day. Among the encampments of Arabs, in the summer season, the + whole country, at night, is in a blaze of light. The kettle-drum, + the triangle, the shepherd's pipe, and the _erbeb_ an instrument + resembling the fiddle, with two strings, form the band of music. + + The youths form a double row of six or eight in each, and carry + themselves erect, with their arms hanging down close to their side; + moving obliquely to the right, then to the left, without taking + their feet from the ground, but moving their heels, then their toes + on the ground, advancing or gliding slowly along; keeping exact + time with the music: they then vault in the air, perform somersets + and various feats of agility. They sing also with great taste and + judgment, and some of them have excellent voices, being selected + for the purpose of affording entertainment to the spectators. The + ladies dance also in a similar manner, but without the vaulting and + somersets. They have a very elegant shawl-dance, which some of them + dance with great taste, and with much graceful movement. +345 + _Circumcision._ + + The circumcision of male children is the general practice of + Islaemism; it is also used among some of the[201] _Khaffers_ or + _Cafers_ of North, Central, and South Africa. Circumcision is not a + practice ascribed to a principle of cleanliness, or any other + cause, but ancient usage. The period of performing this operation + among the Arabs is at the age of eight years. + + [Footnote 201: _Khaffer_ (singular number) is an Arabic term, + applied to all who are not Muhamedans; all Pagans, Jews, and + Christians, are called _Khaffer_, _K'fer_ (plural) _Kaffir + billa_, an atheist: hence Caffraria, the name of the country + near the Cape of Good Hope.] + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz._ + + Transport of ([202]_Alk Sudan_) gum of Sudan, bought at Timbuctoo, + on account of Messrs. James Jackson and Co. by their agent, L'Hage + Muhamed O----n, and dispatched to Akka by the spring (_akkaba_) + accumulated caravan, in February, 1794. + + M. Doll + + 200 camel loads of gum-sudan, each + weighing 250 lb. net, bought at + Timbuctoo, at four Mexico dollars + per load, 800 +346 + _Charges._--Cow-skins to pack it in, sticks + to stow it on the camels, &c. 25 + + 200 camels hired to Akka, at 18 Mexico + dollars each, 3600 + + Stata, _i.e._ convoy through the Sahara, + from Timbuctoo to Arawan, at 20 + cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from Arawan to East Tagrassa, at + 20 cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from East Tagrassa to Akka, at + 40 cents per camel, 40 + + 20 per cent., or one-fifth, on the first + cost, to be allowed to the purchaser + on safe arrival at Akka, 160 + ---- + 4705 + + [Footnote 202: This gum is the produce of an enormous tree of + Sudan, which flourishes near Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and + Bernoh (or Bernou) it is transported by the caravans to + Alexandria in Egypt, to Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers. From the + African ports in the Mediterranean it is shipped to Smyrna and + Constantinople, and from thence to England, under the + denomination of Turkey gum; some goes to Mogodor and Tetuan, + and thence to London.] +347 + The adventure is subject to this charge, provided it arrive safe at + Akka, not otherwise, as also to encourage the agent at Timbuctoo, + to exert himself in procuring trusty guides and competent statas, + which he would not do, without having a certain interest in the + safe delivery. + + _N.B._ No stata is necessary from Akka to Santa Cruz, but the hire + is 3 dollars per camel. + + _Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, which accompanied the + foregoing Consignment._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is nothing durable but the + kingdom of heaven. + + To the Christian merchant, Jackson, at Agadeer. Peace be to those + who follow the right way. + + This being premised, know that I have sent you by this akkabah, two + hundred camel load of gum-sudan, agreeable to the account herewith + transmitted. The stata will be paid by my friend, L'Hage Aly, sheik + of Akka, whom I request you will reimburse according to the account + which I have sent to you by him; and if he goes to Agadeer, be + kind, friendly, and hospitable to him on my account, for he stands + high in my esteem; and peace be with you. + + Written at Timbuctoo, 10th of the month Muharram, year of the Hejra + 1208, (corresponding with 15th Feb. A.C. 1794). By your friend, + + L'HAGE MUHAMED O----N. + God be merciful to him. + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Fas_. + + Transport of gold, gum, and cottons, from Timbuctoo to Fas, + consigned to L'Hage Seyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely, Timbuctoo + merchants at Fas, by (_akkaba el Kheriffy_) the autumnal caravan. + Dispatched 29th Duelhaja el Hurem, year 1204, corresponding with + 10th October, A.C. 1790. + + 500 skins (_Tibber Wangaree_) gold dust of Wangara, each skin + containing 4 ounces, bought on their account, in barter for 800 + Flemish plattilias. + + 100 (_Sibikat deheb Wangaree_). Wangara gold in bars, weighing 20 + ounces each, bought in exchange for 400 pieces (_Shkalat_) Irish + cloth, averaging 44 cubits each piece (7 cubits are equal to 4 + English yards). +348 + 10 bed-covers, 9 cubits long, 4 wide, chequered pattern, blue and + white cotton, with scarlet silk between the chequers, manufactured + at Timbuctoo, bought in barter for 100 lb. sugar, 30 loaves. + + 50 camel-load gum-sudan, weighing net 120 quintals. + + _Charges_.--Hire of 50 camels to Akka, at 18 dollars each. + + Stata to ditto, 1 dollar per load, to be paid by Sheik Aly ben + A----r. + + _Copy of the Letter accompanying the foregoing Remittance._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength, without God, the eternal God. + + To my friends, L'Hage Zeyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely. Peace + be with ye, and the mercy of the High God; and after that, know, + that I have sent to our agents at Akka, by the autumnal caravan, 50 + camel loads of gum-sudan, being 100 skins; in each skin of gum I + have packed 5 skins of gold dust, and 1 bar of gold. L'Hage Tahar + ben Jelule will deliver to our agent at Akka, for you, 10 very + handsome cotton covers for beds, of Sudan manufacture. May all this + arrive safe, with the blessing of God. I will inform you by the + spring caravan what merchandize to send here next autumn. I refer + you to a long letter, which I have sent to you by L'Hage Tahar. + Peace be with you, and the blessing of God be upon you. +349 + Written at Timbuctoo, the 29th Duelhaja El Huram, year 1204. + + L'HAGE HAMED ELWANGARIE. + [203]God protect him. + + + [Footnote 203: The Muhamedans, in signing their name, always + invoke the protection, mercy, or providence of God upon + themselves.] + + _Food of the Desert._ + + The people, whose interest induces them to cross the desert, (for + there are no travellers from curiosity in this country,) obviate + the objection to salt provisions, which increases the propensity to + drink water, by taking with them melted butter, called _smin_; this + is prepared without salt. They also cut beef into long pieces, + about six inches long, and one inch square, without fat; these are + called _el kuddeed_, which are hung on a line, exposed to the air + till dry; they then cut them into pieces, two inches long; these + are put into (_buckul_) an earthen pot; they then pour the _smin_ + into the _buckul_ till it is covered. This meat and butter, besides + being palatable, is comprised in a small compass, and feeds many. + When this butter has been thus prepared and kept twelve or fifteen + years, it is called _budra_, and is supposed to contain penetrating + active medicinal qualities. I have seen some thirty years old. + + _Antithesis, a favourite Figure with the Arabs._ + + Mahmoud, sultan of Ghezna in the beginning of the eleventh century, +350 though the son of a slave, was very powerful. He sent to the khalif + Alkader, requesting a title suited to his exalted dignity. The + latter hesitated; but fearing the power of the sultan, sent him at + the expiration of a year the ambiguous title, _Uly_, i.e. a prince, + a friend, a slave. Mahmoud penetrated the khalif's meaning, and + sent him immediately 100,000 pieces of gold, with a wish to know + whether a letter had not been omitted. Alkader received the + treasure, and took the hint, instantly dispatching letters patent + in full form, creating him _Uaely_ which signifies, without + equivocation, a sovereign independent prince. + + _Arabian Modes of Writing_. + + The Arabs have various modes of writing, the principal of which is + that used by the Koreish, the most learned of all the Western + tribes, and is denominated the _Niskhi_, or upright character: if + this is understood, the others may be easily comprehended. This is + the character in which the Koran was originally written. In the + seventh century, the Arabs adopted the invention of Moramer ben + Morra, a native of Babylonian Irak, which was afterwards improved + by the Kufik. The Kufik and the Niskhi are synonymous. Richardson, + in his Arabic Grammar, p. 4. say, "The Mauritannick character, + which is used by the Moors of Marocco and Barbary, descendants of +351 the Arabians, differs in many respects _considerably_ from the + other modes of writing." But this is incorrect; for the + Mauritannick alphabet, excepting in the order of the letters, is + precisely the same with the Oriental, as now written and spoken, + with the exception only of the letters _Fa_ and _Kaf_, and the + formation even of these characters are alike. The punctuation only, + differs in the West, that is, west of the Egyptian Nile. The + Western punctuation of _Fa_, is one point below the letter, and the + punctuation of the letter _Kaf_ is one point above. In the East, + the former letter has one point above, the latter has two. This is + the only difference between the Eastern and the Western alphabets. + Richardson, (see his Grammar, page 5,) also says, that "the purest + Arabic is spoken at Grand Cairo," but this is not correct: the + language of Grand Cairo and of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and Marocco + are much alike, but none of them are the pure Koraisch or Korannick + Arabic, which is only spoken at Mekka, and among some of the tribes + of Bedouins in the West. The language of the Woled Abbusebah, of + the Howara, and of the Mograffra is the pure Arabic. Finally, in a + note in Richardson's Grammar, page 18, it is said, "Some of our + European writers, and amongst others Voltaire, substitute _Koran_ + for _Alcoran_, but perhaps improperly, as D'Herbelot and other + learned Orientalists, write uniformly _l'Alcoran, il Alcorano_, the + Alcoran." We have been too apt to copy the orthography of Oriental + names from the French, whose pronunciation of the Roman or European +352 characters differs from ours. There cannot be a doubt that + D'Herbelot is incorrect. The word _Koran_ (for there is no _c_ in + the Arabic language) is derived from the verb _Kora_, to read; + _koran_, reading: _Al_ is the article; but, in this instance, + D'Herbelot uses this article twice, which is certainly erroneous, + for _l'_ is the French article in the word in question, and _al_ is + the Arabic article; whereas _one_ article only should precede a + noun. _L'Alcoran_ and the _Alcoran_ are therefore equally + incorrect; for the word in French should be _Le Coran_; in English, + _the Koran_; therefore Voltaire was correct. I have thought it + expedient to make these observations, because standing in + Richardson's Grammar on the authority of _learned orientalists_, + they are calculated to mislead the Arabic student. + + _Decay of Science and the Arts among the Arabs_. + + The literary fire of the Arabs and Persians has been extinguished + upwards of 300 years; but before that period, the encouragement to + learning in the East was unprecedented, and has never been equalled + by any European nation either before or since that period. Kadder + Khan, king of Turquestan, was the greatest support to science. When + he appeared abroad, he was preceded by 700 horsemen, with silver + battle-axes, and was followed by an equal number bearing maces of + gold. He supported with magnificent appointment a literary academy +353 in his palace, consisting of 100 men of the highest reputation. + Amak, called Abu Naeib El Bokari, who was the chief poet, exclusive + of a great pension and a vast number of slaves, had, in attendance + wherever he went, thirty horses of state richly caparisoned, and a + retinue in proportion. The king before-mentioned used to preside at + their exercises of genius, on which occasions, by the side of his + throne were always placed four large basons filled with gold and + silver, which he distributed liberally to those who excelled. + + Lebid suspended over the gate at Mecca a sublime poem; Muhamed + placed near it the opening of the second chapter of the Koran, + which was conceived to be something divine, and it gained the prize + of the _Ocadh_ assembly. + + The remains of this custom of suspending over gates Arabic poems, + is perceived at this day among the western Moors. The gates or + entrances to Mogodor, Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, &c. have writing over + them, which is a kind of Arabic short-hand, that none but the + learned understand; these writings, however, are not moveable, + being engraven on a square table on the stone itself. + + _Extraordinary Abstinence experienced in the Sahara_. + + The Arabs or inhabitants of the Sahara, can support the most + extraordinary abstinence. Occasions occur, wherein they will travel +354 several days without food. After suffering a privation of a day or + two, they tie their (_hazam_) belt round their loins, every morning + tighter than the preceding day, thereby preventing, in some + measure, that action of the bowels which promotes appetite. A + Saharawan will thus go five or six days without food of any kind, + in which case, when he reaches a habitation, or a (_wah_) + cultivated spot in the Desert, he will drink about half-a-pint of + camel's milk; this remains on the stomach but a short time: he then + takes another draught, which, with some, remains and gives + nourishment, but with others _it_ is also rejected by the stomach; + _a third draught is then taken, which restores the exhausted + traveller!_ I have been assured, that instances have been known in + Sahara, wherein a man has been without food of any kind for seven + days, and has afterwards been restored by the foregoing regimen! + +355 + + LANGUAGES OF AFRICA. + + _Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the + Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the + Mandinga.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the + Canary Islands, and Similitude of Customs_. + + + + + Yareb, the son of Kohtan[204], is said to have been the first who + spoke Arabic, and the Muhamedans contend that it is the most + eloquent language spoken in any part of the globe, and that it is + the one which will be used at the day of judgment. To write a long + dissertation on this copious and energetic language, would be only + to repeat what many learned men have said before; a few + observations, however, may not be superfluous to the generality of + readers. The Arabic language is spoken by a greater proportion of + the inhabitants of the known world than any other: a person having + a practical knowledge of it, may travel from the shores of the + Mediterranean Sea to the Cape of Good Hope, and notwithstanding + that in such a journey he must pass through many kingdoms and + empires of blacks, speaking distinct languages, yet he would find +356 men in all those countries versed in Muhamedan learning, and + therefore acquainted with the Arabic; again, he might cross the + widest part of the African continent from west to east, and would + every where meet with persons acquainted with it, more particularly + if he should follow the course of the great river called the Neel + El Abeed, on the banks of which, from Jinnie and Timbuctoo, to the + confines of lower Egypt, are innumerable cities and towns of Arabs + and Moors, all speaking the Arabic. Again, were a traveller to + proceed from Marocco to the farthest shore of Asia, opposite the + islands of Japan, he would find the Arabic generally spoken or + understood wherever he came. In Turkey, in Syria, in Arabia, in + Persia, and in India, it is understood by all men of education; and + any one possessing a knowledge of the Korannick Arabic, might, in a + very short time, make himself master of all its various dialects. + + [Footnote 204: This Kohtan is the Joktan, son of Eber, brother + to Phaleg, mentioned in Genesis. Chapter x, verse 25.] + + The letters of this language[205] are formed in four distinct ways, + according to their situation at the beginning, middle, or end of + words, as well as when standing alone; the greatest difficulty, + however, to be overcome, is the acquiring a just pronunciation, + (without which no living language can be essentially useful;) and + to attain which, the learner should be able to express the + difference of power and sound between what may be denominated the +357 synonymous letters, such as [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] with [A] + and [A] with [A] and [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] + with [A] and [A] and [A] with [A]. + + [Footnote 205: The Oriental punctuation is here adopted.] + + [Footnote A: Arabic character; cannot be displayed in this + file format.] + + Besides these, there are other letters, whose power is extremely + difficult to be acquired by an European, because no language in + Europe possesses sounds similar to the Arabic letters [Arabic:], nor + has any language, except, perhaps, the English, a letter with the + power of the Arabian [A]. Those who travel into Asia or Africa + scarcely ever become sufficiently masters of the Arabic to speak it + fluently, which radical defect proceeds altogether from their not + learning, while studying it, the peculiar distinction of the + synonymous letters. _No European, perhaps, ever knew more of the + theory of this language than the late Sir William Jones, but still + he could not converse with an Arabian;_ a circumstance of which he + was not conscious until he went to India. This great man, however, + had he been told that his knowledge of this popular eastern + language was so far deficient, that he was ignorant of the separate + powers of its synonymous letters, and consequently inadequate to + converse intelligibly with a native Arab, he would certainly have + considered it an aspersion, and have disputed altogether that such + was the fact. Considering how much we are indebted to the Arabians +358 for the preservation of many of the works of the ancients, which + would otherwise have never, perhaps, been known to us, it is really + surprising, that their language should be so little known in + Europe. It is certainly very difficult and abstruse, (to learners + particularly,) but this difficulty is rendered insurmountable by + the European professors knowing it only as a dead language, and + _teaching it without due attention to the pronunciation of the + before mentioned synonymous letters, a defect which is not likely + to be remedied, and which will always subject the speaker to + incessant errors_. + + To shew the Arabic student the difference between the Oriental and + Occidental order of the letters of the alphabet, I shall here give + them opposite each other. + + Oriental. Occidental + + 1 Alif [A] -- 1 Alif [A] + + 2 ba. [A] -- 2 ba [A] + + 3 ta [A] -- 3 ta. [A] + + 4 thsa [A] -- 4 tha [A] + + 5 jim [A] -- 5 jim [A] + + 6 hha [A] -- 6 hha [A] + + 7 kha [A] -- 7 kha [A] + + 8 dal [A] -- 8 dal [A] + + 9 dsal [A] -- 9 dth'al [A] + + 10 ra [A] -- 10 ra [A] + + 11 za [A] -- 11 zain [A] +359 + 12 sin [A] -- 12 ta [A] + + 13 shin [A] -- 13 da [A] + + 14 sad [A] -- 14 kef [A] + + 15 dad [A] -- 15 lam [A] + + 16 ta [A] -- 16 mim [A] + + 17 da [A] -- 17 nune [A] + + 18 ain [A] -- 18 sad [A] + + 19 gain [A] -- 19 dad [A] + + 20 fa [A] -- 20 ain [A] + + 21 kaf [A] -- 21 g'rain [A] + + 22 kef [A] -- 22 fa [A] + + 23 lem [A] -- 23 kaf [A] + + 24 mim [A] -- 24 sin [A] + + 25 nun [A] -- 25 shin [A] + + 26 waw [A] -- 26 hha [A] + + 27 he [A] -- 27 wow [A] + + 28 ya [A] -- 28 ia [A] + + 29 lam-alif: ligature lam + alif = [A] + + Besides this difference of the arrangement of the two alphabets, + the Arabic student will observe that there is also a difference in + the punctuation of two of the letters: thus-- + + Oriental. Occidental. + + fa [A] fa [A] + + kaf [A] kaf [A] + + [Footnote A: Arabic characters; cannot be displayed in this + file format.] + +360 + Among the Western Arabs, the ancient Arabic figures are used, viz. + 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9: they often write 100 thus, 1..--200, + 2.. + + To explain the force of the synonymous letters on paper would be + impossible; the reader, however, may form some idea of the + indispensable necessity of knowing the distinction by the few words + here selected, which to one unaccustomed to hear the Arabic + language spoken, would appear similar and undistinguishable. + + ENGLISH. ARABIC, ARABIC. + + Rendered as near to European pronunciation + as the English Alphabet + will admit. + + A horse Aoud [Arabic:] + + Wood Awad [Arabic:] + + To repeat Aoud [Arabic:] + + Fish Hout [Arabic:] + + A gun Mokhalla [Arabic:] + + A foolish woman Mokeela [Arabic:] + + A frying pan Makeela [Arabic:] + + A lion Seban [Arabic:] + + Morning Seban [Arabic:] + + Seventh Seban [Arabic:] +361 + Hatred Hassed [Arabic:] + + Harvest Hassed [Arabic:] + + Learning (Alem, or El Alem) [Arabic:] + + A flag El Alem [Arabic:] + + Granulated paste Kuscasoe [Arabic:] + + The dish it is made in Kuscas [Arabic:] + + Heart Kul'b [Arabic:] + + Dog Kil'b [Arabic:] + + Mould Kal'b [Arabic:] + + Captain Rice [Arabic:] + + Feathers Rish [Arabic:] + + Mud G'ris [Arabic:] + + Smell Shim [Arabic:] + + Poison Sim[206] [Arabic:] +362 + Absent G'raib [Arabic:] + + Butter-milk Raib [Arabic:] + + White Bead [Arabic:] + + A black El Abd [Arabic:] + + Eggs Baid [Arabic:] + + Afar off Baid [Arabic:] + + A pig Helloof [Arabic:] + + An oath Hellef [Arabic:] + + Feed for horses Alf [Arabic:] + + A thousand Elf [Arabic:] + + [Footnote 206: The African Jews find it very difficult in + speaking, to distinguish between _shim_ and _sim_, for they + cannot pronounce the _sh_, [Arabic] but sound it like _s_ + [Arabic]; the very few who have studied the art of reading + the language, have, however, conquered this difficulty.] + + It is difficult for any one who has not accurately studied the + Arabic language, to imagine the many errors which an European + commits in speaking it, when self taught, or when taught in Europe. + This deficiency originates in the inaccuracy of the application of + the guttural and synonymous letters. + + The ain [Arabic] and the [Arabic] grain cannot be +363 accurately pronounced by Europeans, who have not studied the + language grammatically when young. The aspirated _h_, and the hard + _s_, in the word for _morning_ (sebah), are so much like their + synonymes, that few Europeans can discern the difference; the one + is consequently often mistaken for the other; and I have known a + beautiful sentence absolutely perverted through an inaccuracy of + this kind. In the words rendered _Hatred_ and _Harvest_, the two + synonymes of [Arabic:] and [Arabic:] or _s_ hard and _s_ + soft, are indiscriminately used by Europeans in their Arabic + _conversations_, a circumstance sufficient to do away the force and + meaning of many a sentence. + + The poetry as well as prose of the Arabians is well known, and has + been so often discussed by learned men, that it would be irrelevant + here to expatiate on the subject; but as the following description + of the noblest passion of the human breast cannot but be + interesting to the generality of readers, and, without any + exception, to the fair sex, I will transcribe it. + + "Love [Arabic:] beginneth in contemplation, passeth to meditation; + hence proceeds desire; then the spark bursts forth into a flame, + the head swims, the body wastes, and the soul turns giddy. If we + look on the bright side of love, we must acknowledge that it has at + least one advantage; it annihilates pride and immoderate self-love; +364 true love, whose aim is the happiness and equality of the beloved + object, being incompatible with those feelings. + + "Lust is so different from true love [Arabic], and so far from a + perfection, that it is always a species of punishment sent by God, + because man has abandoned the path of his pure love." + + In their epistolary writing, the Arabs have generally a regular and + particular style, beginning and ending all their letters with the + name of God, symbolically, because God is the beginning and end of + all things. The following short specimen will illustrate this: + + Translation of a letter written in the Korannick Arabic by Seedy + Soliman ben Muhammed ben Ismael, Sultan of Marocco, to his Bashaw + of Suse, &c. &c. + + "Praise be to the only God! for there is neither power, nor + strength, without the great and eternal God." + + L.S. + + Containing the Emperor's name and + titles, as Soliman ben Muhamed + ben Abdallah, &c, &c. + + "Our servant, Alkaid Abdelmelk ben Behie Mulud, God assist, and + peace be with thee, and the mercy and grace of God be upon thee!" + + "We command thee forthwith to procure and send to our exalted + presence every Englishman that has been wrecked on the coast of + Wedinoon, and to forward them hither without delay, and diligently +365 to succour and attend to them, and may the eye of God be upon + thee!" [207] + + [Footnote 207: When they write to any other but Muhamedans, + they never salute them with the words, "Peace be with thee," + but substitute--"Peace be to those who follow the path of the + true God," _Salem ala min itaba el Uda_.] + + "26th of the (lunar), month Saffer, year of the Hejra 1221. (May, + 1806.)" + + The accuracy of punctuation in the Arabic language is a matter that + ought to be strictly attended to. + + The foregoing observations will serve to prove the insufficiency of + a knowledge of this language, as professed or studied in Great + Britain when unaccompanied with a practical knowledge. These + observations may apply equally to the Persian language.[208] + + [Footnote 208: "One of the objects I had in view in coming to + Europe, was to instruct young Englishmen in the Persian + language. I however met with so little encouragement from + persons in authority, that I entirely relinquished the plan. I + instructed, however, (as I could not refuse the recommendations + that were brought to me,) an amiable young man, Mr. S------n, + and thanks be to God, my efforts were crowned with success! and + that he, having escaped the instructions of _self-taught_ + masters, has acquired such a knowledge of the principles of + that language, and so correct an idea of its idiom and + pronunciation, that I have no doubt, after a few years' + residence in India, he will attain to such a degree of + excellence, as has not yet been acquired by any other + Englishman." Vide Travels of Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, vol. i. p. + 200.] + + If the present ardour for discovery in Africa be persevered in, the + learned world may expect, in the course of a few years, to receive +366 histories and other works of Greek and Roman authors, which were + translated into the Arabic language, when Arabian literature was in + its zenith, and have ever since been confined to some private + libraries in the cities of the interior of Africa, and in Arabia. + + Having said thus much with regard to the Arabic of the western + Arabs, which, with little variation, is spoken throughout all the + finest districts of North Africa, I shall proceed to say a few + words respecting the other languages spoken north of Sahara: these + are the Berebber and its dialects, viz. the Zayan and Girwan, and + Ait Amor; the Shelluh of Suse and South Atlas, all which, though + latterly supposed by some learned men to be the same, differ in + many respects; any one possessing a knowledge of the Berebber + language might, with little difficulty, make himself understood by + the Zayan of Atlas, the Girwan, or the Ait Amor; but the Shelluh is + a different language, and each so different from the Arabic, that + there is not the smallest resemblance, as the following specimen + will demonstrate: + + BEREBBER. SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Tumtoot Tayelt Ishira A girl + Ajurode Ayel Ishire A boy + Askan Tarousa Hajar A thing + Aram Algrom Jimmel Camel + Tamtute Tamraut Murrah A woman + Ishiar Issemg'h L'Abd A slave + Aouli Izimer Kibsh A sheep + Taddert Tikimie Dar House +367 Ikshuden Asroen Lawad Wood + Eekeel Akfai Hellib Milk + Tifihie Uksume El Ham Meat + Buelkiel Amuran Helloof A hog + Abreede Agares Trek A road + Bishee Fikihie Ara Give me + Adude Asht Agi Come + Alkam Aftooh Cire Go + Kaym Gaeuze Jils Sit down + Imile Imeek Serire Little + + _Specimen of the Difference between the Arabic and Shelluh + Languages._ + + SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Is sin Tamazirkt Wash katarf Do you understand + Shelluh Shelluh? + Uree sin Man arf huh I do not understand it. + Matshrult Kif enta How are you? + Is tekeete Wash gite min Are you come from + Marokshe Marockshe Marocco? + Egan ras Miliah Good + Maigan Ala'sh Wherefore? + Misimmink As'mek What is your name? + Mensh kat dirk Shall andik How much have you got? + Tasardunt Borella A mule + Romi Romi An European + Takannarit Nasarani A Christian +368 Romi Kaffer An infidel + Misem Bebans Ashkune mula Who is the owner? + Is'tkit Tegriwelt Washjite min Are you come from + Tegriwelt Cape Ossem? + Auweete Imkelli Jib Liftor Bring the dinner + Efoulkie Meziana Handsome + Ayeese El aoud A horse + Tikelline El Baid Eggs + Amuran Helloof Hog + Tayuh Tatta Camelion + Tasamumiat Adda Green lizard + Tenawine Sfune Ships. + + Marmol says, the Shelluhs and Berebbers write and speak one + language, called Killem Abimalick[209]; but the foregoing specimen, + the accuracy of which may be depended on, clearly proves this + assertion to be erroneous, as well as that of many moderns who have + formed their opinion, in all probability, on the above authority. + Now, although the Shelluh and Berebber languages are so totally + dissimilar, that there is not one word in the foregoing vocabulary + which resembles its corresponding word in the other language, yet, +369 from the prejudice which Marmol's authority has established, it + will still be difficult, perhaps, to persuade the learned that such + an author could be mistaken on such a subject. My account therefore + must remain for a future age to determine upon, when the languages + of Africa shall be better known than they are at present; for it is + not a few travellers occasionally sent out on a limited plan, that + can ascertain facts, the attainment of which requires a long + residence, and familiar intercourse with the natives. Marmol had + also misled the world, in saying that they write a different + language; the fact is, that when they write any thing of + consequence, it is in the Arabic; but any trifling subject is + written in the Berebber words, though in the Arabic character. If + they had any peculiar character in the time of Marmol, they have + none now; for I have conversed with hundreds of them, as well as + with the Shelluhs, and have had them staying at my house for a + considerable time together, but never could learn from any, that a + character different from the Arabic had ever been in use among + them. + + [Footnote 209: Killem Abimalick signifies the Language of + Abimalick; this is evidently an error of Marmol, the Shelluh + language is denominated _Amazirk_; the Berebber Language is + denominated _Killem Brebber_.] + + In addition to these languages, there is another spoken at the + Oasis of Ammon, or Siwah, called in Arabic [Arabic:] El Wah El + Grarbie, which appears to be a mixture of Berebber and Shelluh, as + will appear from the list of Siwahan words given by Mr. +370 Horneman[210], in his Journal, page 19, part of which I have here + transcribed, to show the similitude between those two languages, + whereby it will appear that the language of Siwah and that of the + Shelluhs of South Atlas, are one and the same language. + + ENGLISH. SIWAHAN. SHELLUH. + Sun Itfuckt Atfuct. + Head Achfe Akfie + Camel Lgum Arume + Sheep Jelibb Jelibb + Cow Tfunest Tafunest + Mountain Iddrarn Iddra[211] + Have you a horse? Goreck Ackmar Is derk Achmar?[212] + Milk Achi Akfie + Bread Tagor Tagora[213] + Dates Tena Tenia (sing.)Tena (plural.) + + South of the Desert we find other languages spoken by the blacks; + and are told by Arabs, who have frequently performed the journey + from Jinnie to Cairo, and the Red Sea, that thirty-three different +371 Negro languages are met with in the course of that route, but that + the Arabic is spoken by the intelligent part of the people, and the + Muhamedan religion is known and followed by many; their writings + are uniformly in Arabic. + + [Footnote 210: In reading Mr. William Marsden's observations on + the language of Siwah, at the end of Horneman's Journal, in + page 190, I perceive that the short vocabulary inserted + corresponds with a vocabulary of the Shelluh language, which I + presented to that gentleman some years past.] [Footnote 211: + Plural Iddrarn.] + + [Footnote 212: Or, Is derk ayeese?] + + [Footnote 213: This is applied to bread when baked in a pan, or + over the embers of charcoal, or other fire; but when baked in + an oven it is called Agarom (g guttural.)] + + It may not be improper in this place, seeing the many errors and + mutilated translations which appear from time to time, of Arabic, + Turkish and Persian papers, to give a list of the Muhamedan moons + or lunar months, used by all those nations, which begin with the + first appearance of the new moon, that is, the day following, or + sometimes two days after the change, and continue till they see the + next new moon; these have been mutilated to such a degree in all + our English translations, that I shall give them, in the original + Arabic character, and as they ought to be spelt and pronounced in + the English character, as a clue whereby to calculate the + correspondence between our year and theirs. They divide the year + into 12 months, which contain 29 or 30 days, according as they see + the new moon; the first day of the month Muharam is termed [arabic] + Ras Elame, i.e. the beginning of the year. + + As we are more used to the Asiatic mode of punctuation, that will + be observed in these words. + + Muharam [Arabic] + Asaffer [Arabic] +372 Arabia Elule [Arabic] + Arabea Atthenie [Arabic] + Jumad Elule [Arabic] + Jumad Athenie [Arabic] + Rajeb [Arabic] + Shaban [Arabic] + Ramadan [Arabic] + Shual [Arabic] + Du'elkada [Arabic] + Du Elhajah [Arabic] + + The first of Muharram, year of the Hejra 1221, answers to the 19th + March of the Christian aera, 1806. + + Among the various languages spoken south of the Sahara, we have + already observed that there are thirty-three different ones between + the Western Ocean and the Red Sea, following the shores of the Nile + El Abeed, or Niger: among all these nations and empires, a man + practically acquainted with the Arabic, may always make himself + understood, and indeed, it is the language most requisite to be + known for every traveller in these extensive regions. + + The Mandinga is spoken from the banks of the Senegal, where that + river takes a northerly course from the Jibel Kuthera to the +373 kingdom of Bambarra; the Wangareen tongue is a different one; and + the Housonians speak a language differing again from that. + + _Specimen of the difference between the Arabic and Mandinga + language; the words of the latter extracted from the vocabularies + of Seedi Muhamed ben Amer Sudani._ + + ENGLISH. MANDINGA. ARABIC. + + One Kalen Wahud + Two Fula Thanine + Three Seba Thalata + Four Nani Arba + Five Lulu Kumsa + Six Uruh Setta + Seven Urn'klu Sebba + Eight Saeae Timinia + Nine Kanuntee Taseud + Ten Dan Ashra + Eleven Dan kalen Ahud ash + Twelve Dan fula Atenashe + Thirteen Dan seba Teltashe + Nineteen Dankanartee Tasatasli + Twenty Mulu Ashreen + Thirty Mulu nintau Thalateen + Forty Mulu fula Arbae'in + Fifty Mulu fula neentan Kumseen + Sixty Mulu sebaa Setteen + Seventy Mulu sebaa nintan Sebae'in. +374 Eighty Mulu nani T'aramana'een + Ninety Mulu nani neentaan Tasa'een + One hundred Kemi Mia + One thousand Uli Elf + + This Neen Hadda + That Waleem Hadduk + Great Bawa Kabeer + Little Nadeen Sereer + Handsome Nimawa Zin + Ugly Nuta Uksheen (k guttur.) + White Kie Bead + Black Feen Khal + Red Williamma Hummer + How do you do? Nimbana mcuntania Kif-enta + Well Kantee Ala-khere + Not well Moon kanti Murrede + What do you want Ala feta matume Ash-bright + Sit down Siduma Jils + Get up Ounilee Node + Sour Akkumula Hamd + Sweet Timiata Helluh + True Aituliala Hack + False Funiala Kadube + Good Abatee Miliah + Bad Minbatee Kubiah + A witch Bua Sahar + A lion Jatta Sebaa +375 An elephant Samma El fel + A hyaena Salua Dubbah + A wild boar Siwa El kunjer + A water horse Mali Aoud d'Elma + A horse Suhuwa Aoud + A camel Kumaniun Jimmel + A dog Wallee Killeb + Hel el Killeb Hel Wallee Hel El Killeb + or the dog-faced + race. + + A gazel Tankeen Gazel (g guttural) + A cat Niankune El mish + A goat Baa El maize + A sheep Kurenale Kibsh + A bull Nisakia Toor + A serpent Saa Hensh + A camelion Mineer Tatta + An ape Ku'nee Dzatute + A fowl or chicken Susee Djez + A duck Beruee El Weese + A fish Hihu El hout + Butter Tulu Zibda + Milk Nunn El hellib + Bread Mengu El khubs (k guttur.) + Corn Nieu Zra + Wine Tangee Kummer (k guttur.) + Honey Alee Asel + Sugar Tobabualee Sukar + Salt Kuee Mil'h + Ambergris Anber Anber +376 Brass Tass Tass + Silver Kudee Nukra + Gold-dust Teber Tiber + Pewter Tass ki Kusdeer + A bow Kula El kos + An arrow Binia Zerag + A knife Muru Jenui + A spoon Kulia Mogerfa + A bed El arun El ferrashe + A lamp El kundeel El kundeel + A house Su Ed dar + A room Bune El beet + A light-hole Jinnee Reehaha + or window + A door Daa Beb + A town Kinda Midina + Smoke Sezee Tkan (k guttural) + Heat Kandia Skanna (k guttural) + Cold Nini Berd + Sea Bedu baha Bahar + River Bedu Wed + A rock Berri Jerf + Sand Kinnikanni Rummel + The earth Binku Dunia + Mountain Kuanku Jibbel + Island Juchuei Dzeera + Rain Sanjukalaeen Shta + God Allah Allah + Father Fa Ba + Mother Ba Ma + Hell Jahennum Jehennume +377 A man Kia Rajil + A woman Musa Murrah + A sister Bum musa Kat (k guttural) + A brother Bum kia Ka + The devil Buhau Iblis + A white man Tebabu Rajil biad + A singer Jalikea Runai (r guttural) + A singing woman Jalimusa Runaiah (r guttural) + A slave June Abeed + A servant Bettela Mutalem + + Having now given some account of the languages of Africa, we shall + proceed to animadvert on the similitude of language and customs + between the Shelluhs of Atlas and the original inhabitants of the + Canary Islands. The words between inverted commas, are quotations + from Glasse's History of the Discovery and Conquest of the Canary + Islands. + + "The inhabitants of Lancerotta and Fuertaventura are social and + cheerful;" like the Shelluhs of Atlas; "they are fond of singing + and dancing; their music is vocal, accompanied with a clapping of + hands, and beating with their feet;" the Shelluhs resemble them in + all these respects; "Their houses are built of stone, without + cement; the entrance is narrow, so that but one person can enter at + a time." + +378 The houses of the Shelluhs are sometimes built without cement, but + always with stone; the doors and entrances are low and small, so + that one person only can enter. + + "In their temples they offered to their God milk and butter." + + Among the Shelluhs milk and butter are given as presents to princes + and great men; the milk being an emblem of good will and candour. + + "When they were sick (which seldom happened) they cured themselves + with the herbs which grew in the country; and when they had acute + pains, they scarified the part affected with sharp stones, and + burned it with fire, and then anointed it with goat's butter. + Earthen vessels of this goat's butter were found interred in the + ground, having been put there by the women, who were the makers, + and took that method of preparing it for medicine." + + The custom of the Shelluhs on such occasions is exactly similar; + the butter which they use is old, and is buried under ground many + years in (_bukul_) earthen pots, and is called _budra_: it is a + general medicine, and is said to possess a remarkably penetrating + quality. + + "They grind their barley in a hand-mill, made of two stones, being + similar to those used in some remote parts of Europe". + + In Suse, among the Shelluhs, they grind their corn in the same way, + and barley is the principal food. + + "Their breeches are short, leaving the knees bare;" so are those + worn by the Shelluhs. +379 + "Their common food was barley meal roasted and mixed with goat's + milk and butter, and this dish they call Asamotan." + + This is the common food of the Shelluhs of Atlas, and they call it + by a similar name, Azamitta. + + The opinion of the author of the History and Conquest of the Canary + Islands, is, that the inhabitants came originally from Mauritania, + and this he founds on the resemblance of names of places in Africa + and in the islands: "for," says he, "Telde[214], which is the name + of the oldest habitation in Canaria, Orotaba, and Tegesta, are all + names which we find given to places in Mauritania and in Mount + Atlas. It is to be supposed that Canaria, Fuertaventura, and + Lancerotta, were peopled by the Alarbes[215], who are the nation + most esteemed in Barbary; for the natives of those islands named + milk _Aho_, and barley _Temecin_, which are the names that are + given to those things in the language of the Alarbes of Barbary." + He adds, that-- + + "Among the books of a library that was in the cathedral of St. Anna + in Canaria, there was found one so disfigured, that it wanted both + the beginning and the end: it treated of the Romans, and gave an +380 account, that when Africa was a Roman province, the natives of + Mauritania rebelled and killed their presidents and governors, upon + which the senate, resolving to punish and make a severe example of + the rebels, sent a powerful army into Mauritania, which vanquished + and reduced them again to obedience. Soon after the ringleaders of + the rebellion were put to death, and the tongues of the common + people, together with those of their wives and children, were cut + out, and then they were all put aboard vessels with some grain and + cattle, and transported to the Canary islands." [216] + + [Footnote 214: Telde or Tildie is a place in the Atlas + mountains, three miles east of Agadeer; the castle is in + ruins.] + + [Footnote 215: The Alarbes, this is the name that the + inhabitants of Lower Suse and Sahara have, _El Arab_ or Arabs.] + + [Footnote 216: One Thomas Nicols, who lived seven years in the + Canary Islands, and wrote a history of them, says, that the + best account he could get of the origin of the natives, was, + that they were exiles from Africa, banished thence by the + Romans, who cut out their tongues for blaspheming their gods.] + + The following vocabulary will show the similarity of language + between the natives of Canaria and the Shelluhs (inhabitants of the + Atlas mountains south of Marocco). + + LANCEROTTA AND SHELLUH OR ENGLISH. + FUERTAVENTURA DIALECT. LYBIAN TONGUE. + + Temasin Tumzeen Barley + Tezzezes Tezezreat Sticks + Taginaste Taginast A palm-tree + Tahuyan Tahuyat A blanket, + covering, or petticoat. + Ahemon Amen Water +381 Faycag Faquair Priest or lawyer + Acoran M'koorn God + Almogaren Talmogaren Temples + Tamoyanteen Tigameen Houses + Tawacen Tamouren Hogs + Archormase Akermuse Green figs + Azamotan Azamittan Barley meal fried in oil + Tigot Tigot Heaven + Tigotan Tigotan The Heavens + Thener Athraar A mountain + Adeyhaman Douwaman A hollow valley + Ahico Tahayk A hayk, or coarse garment + Kabeheira Kabeera A head man or a powerful + Ahoren ---- Barley meal roasted + Ara ---- A goat + Ana ---- A sheep + Tagarer ---- A place of justice + + Benehoare, the name of the natives of Palma. + + Beni Hoarie, a tribe of Arabs in Suse between Agadeer and + Terodant.[217] + + [Footnote 217: For further particulars, see Glasse's History of + the Canary Islands, 4to. page 174.] + +382 + + TITLES + OF + THE EMPEROR OF MAROCCO, + STYLE OF ADDRESSING HIM, + AND + SPECIMENS OF EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE. + + + * * * * * + + + _THE TITLES OF THE EMPEROR_ + ARE + + Servant of God. + + Commander, Captain, or Leader of the (Mumeneen) _Faithful_ [i.e. in + Muhamed], _upheld by the Grace of God_. + + _Prince of Hassenee_. Ever supported by God. + + _Sultan of Fas, of Maroksh_ [Marocco], _of Suse, and of Draha, and + of Tafilelt and Tuat, together with all the kabyles_ [tribes] _of + the West, and of the Berebbers of Atlas, &c._ + + The Sultan calls his soldiers (_ketteffee_) "my shoulders or + support, or strength;" his subjects he calls his sons (_woledee_), + and himself the father of his people. + + N.B. The Hejra, or Muhamedan aera began A.D. 622. The Muhamedan + years are lunar, 33 of which are about 32 solar years. + +383 + + THE STYLE + USED BY MUSELMEN, + _IN ADDRESSING THE EMPEROR,_ + IS AS FOLLOWS: + + "Sultan of exalted dignity, whom God preserve. May the Almighty + protect that royal purity, and bestow happiness, increase of + wealth, and prosperity on the nation of believers [i.e. in + Muhamed], whose welfare and power is attributed entirely to the + favour and benevolence of the Exalted God." + + The Sultan is head of the ecclesiastical, military, and civil law, + and is universally considered by his subjects God's Vicegerent, or + Lieutenant on Earth. All letters written to his Imperial Majesty, + are begun with the praise of God, and with the acknowledgment, (in + opposition to idolatry,) that there is neither beginning nor power + but what proceeds from God, the eternal God, (_La hule u la kua ela + billa, Allah el adeem_.) + +384 + + SPECIMENS + OF + _MUHAMEDAN EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE._ + + * * * * * + + + _The following Letters are literal translations from the original + Arabic, and, although not of great importance, yet it is some + satisfaction to the enquiring mind, to observe the various modes of + address, and to note the style of Epistolary Correspondence + practised by the Muhamedans, which is so different from that which + is used among European and other nations._ + + + * * * * * + + LETTER I. + + _From Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, to Captain Kirke at + Tangier; Ambassador from King Charles the Second, dated 7th Du + Elkadah, in the 1093d Year of the Hejra, (corresponding to the 27th + October, A. D, 1682_.) + + Praise be to God, the most High alone! and the blessing of God be + upon those who are for his prophet. + + From the shereef[218], the servant of God, who putteth his trust in +385 God, the commander of the faithful, who is courageous in the way of + the omniscient God. + + [Footnote 218: Shereef is a general term in the Arabic for a + prince, king, or emperor, signifying royal blood.] + + L.S. + + Ismael Son of a shereef; God illumine + and preserve him. + + God assist his commanders, and give victory to his forces and + armies, Amen! To the captain of Tangier, Kirke, _peace be to those + who follow the right way[219]_; this by way of preface. Your letter + came to the lofty place of our residence, and we understand what + your discourse contained. As for the asking a cessation of arms by + sea; know, that it was not treated of between us till this present + time. Neither did we make truce with you concerning any thing but + Tangier alone. When you came to our illustrious house, we treated + with you about that matter for four years, and if you had sojourned + there yourself, no Muselman would ever have gone into that town + hostilely against you, but merely as a peaceable merchant. + + [Footnote 219: This is a sentence which frequently occurs in + the Koran, but when used in epistolary correspondence with + Christians (for it is never used by Muhamedans between + themselves), it bears the appearance of a salutation, but the + allusion is to Muhamedans, who _these people think_ are the + only men who follow the true path or right way; it is, however, + a compliment to all who _think themselves_ in the right way.] + + As to a cessation of arms by sea, it was not negociated by us, + neither did we discourse about it; but, when you desired it of us, +386 we wrote to your Master in England, saying, If you desire a + cessation of arms by sea, and are willing to receive a firm peace + from us, send us two understanding men, of the chief of the Divan + of England, by whom the peace of all the Christians here may be + confirmed; and, when they shall arrive at the lofty place of our + residence, and sit before us, whatsoever they shall hear from us, + by way of agreement, shall be acceded to! And we have given you + security, at sea, for four months, viz. from the time we sent you + our letter to Tangier, till the day that there shall come an answer + from your Master, and until the arrival of the two ambassadors + aforementioned, after the aforesaid manner. As for those men who in + thy letter thou didst say were taken at sea: I neither know nor + have heard any thing of them. Your discourse about that matter + having been with Aly ben Abdallah, and he administered justice (to + you) upon the Muselmen who had taken these men prisoners for the + sake of him, for whom you made your complaint to us; and he + returned the Christians to you, and imprisoned the sailors for + capturing them. Now, if there shall happen to be a peace between me + and you at sea, as there is for four years by land, through your + mediation, and by reason of your coming to us, I will hang them, + and blot out their footsteps, and be revenged on them with the most + severe revenge. + + Our servant Muhamed ben Hadu Aater, who came from your presence, + told us that lions are scarce in your country, and that they are in +387 high estimation, with you. When your servant came to us, he found + we had two small young lions, wherefore by him we send them to you. + And know, that we have received by our servants from your Master, + _three_ coach-horses, now a coach requires _four_ horses to draw + it, wherefore you must needs send us another good one of the same + kind and size, that they may draw the coach with four horses. + Oblige us in this by all means. Farewell: we depend upon it. + + Written 7th of the sacred month _Du El Kadah_, in the year of the + Hejra, ninety-three and a thousand, (A.D. 1682.) + + + LETTER II. + + _From the same Muley Ismael to Sir Cloudesly Shovel, on board the + Charles Galley, off Salee, written Aug. 26. A.D. 1684, year of the + Hejra 1095_. + + L.S. + + I, servant of God, and Emperor of + Marocco and King of Mauritania, + whom God preserve in all + his undertakings, &c. + + I Salute you and the rest of the captains. + + As for the captives you have taken, they belong to several places, + and are not all my subjects; and what I do is out of charity, as + they are Muhamedans, being forced to go to sea for want of + maintenance. As for those that are my soldiers, they go to sea to +388 fight and to die in my quarrels; but, those _Moors_ that _you_ have + taken, are inconsiderable and of no account. + + Henceforward I shall have ships as big as yours, if not bigger, + hoping to take some of your ships and captains, and cruise for you + in your English seas, as you do for us in these. + + I have written letters to the King of England, in which are kind + expressions: And when you had Tangier, all things were given to you + as you wanted, and all done out of kindness; and now that you have + left Tangier for the Moors, whatever His Majesty of Great Britain + wants, either by sea or by land, it shall be granted, so that there + be a peace betwixt the two crowns; for which I pass my word and + faith. + + Now, _I have written several letters to his Majesty of Great + Britain, to which I have received as yet no answer_; but, when it + (the answer) reaches my hands, I hope there will be a good + accommodation between us. + + You have taken several of our ships and destroyed others, and you + are cruising on our coast, which is not the way to make a good + peace, neither the actions of honesty in you. + + God be praised that you have quitted Tangier and left it to us, to + whom it did belong: from henceforward we shall keep it well + supplied with stores, for it is the best port of our dominions. + + As for the captives you have taken, you may do as you please with +389 them, heaving them into the sea, or otherwise destroying them. The + English merchants that are here resident, shall satisfy all their + debts, which being done, none of them shall remain in my country. + + + LETTER. III. + + _Captain Shovel's Answer_. + + May it please Your Majesty, + + We, the King of England's captains, return Your Majesty humble + thanks for your kind wishes to us. Your Majesty by this may know, + that we have received your letter, and by it we understand, that + Your Majesty is informed that most of these people that are taken + are not your subjects. We perceive by this, as well as in other + things, how grossly Your Majesty has been deceived by those people + you trust; else, we doubt not, but that, long before this, our + Master, whom God preserve, and Your Majesty had accommodated all + differences, and we should have had a firm peace. + + Of those fifty-three slaves that are here, (excepting two or + three,) they are all Moors of their own country, as they themselves + can make appear; but, if they are to be disowned because they are + poor, the Lord help them!! Your Majesty tells us, that we may throw + them overboard, if we please: all this we very well know; but we + are Christians, and they bear the form of men, which is reason +390 enough for us not to do so. + + As to Tangier, our Master kept it twenty-one years; and the world + is sensible, that in spite of all your force, he could, if he had + pleased, have continued to keep it to the world's end; for, he + levelled your walls, filled up your harbour, and demolished your + houses, in the face of your Alkaid and his army; and when he had + done, he left your[220] barren country (without the loss of a man) + for your own people to starve in: but our departure from thence, + long before this, we doubt not, but you have repented of. When you + tell us of those mighty ships Your Majesty intends to build and + send to our coast, you must excuse us if we think ourselves the + better judges; for we know, as to shipping, what you are able to + do. + + [Footnote 220: The gallant and magnanimous captain was better + acquainted with the coast than with the country, which is any + thing but barren.] + + If you think fit to redeem those slaves, at 100 dollars a-piece, + they are at Your Majesty's service, and the rest shall be sent to + you; or, if you think fit to give us so many English in exchange, + we shall be well satisfied; but we think you will hardly comply + with that, for the poorest slave that ever our Master redeemed out + of _your_ country, cost him 200 dollars; and some of these five + times that sum, for he freely extended his charity to all, and + never forgets his people _because they are poor_. +391 + It is great wonder to us, that you should tax us with unjust + proceedings in taking your ships in time of truce, when Your + Majesty may remember that, during the time your ambassador was in + England, your corsairs took about twenty sail of my Master's ships; + and this very year, you have fitted out all the force in your + kingdom to sea, who have taken several of our ships, and at the + same time pretend to a truce for peace! But some of your ships, for + their unjust dealings, have had their reward, and the rest, when + they shall come to sea, we doubt not but God Almighty will put them + into our hands. + + If Your Majesty think fit to send proposals to my Master concerning + peace, I shall take care for the speedy and safe conveyance of the + same. I desire Your Majesty's speedy answer; for I do not intend to + stay long before Salee. + + Wishing Your Majesty long life and happiness, I subscribe myself, + Your Majesty's + + Most obedient and humble Servant, + + CLOUDESLY SHOVEL. + Sept. 1684 A.D. +392 + + LETTER IV. + + _A literal Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter + to Queen Anne, in the year of our Lord 1710, extracted from the + Harl. MSS. 7525_. + + L.S. + + In the name of the most + merciful God. + + He that depends upon God goeth straight to the right way. From the + servant of God, the Emperor of the believers, who maketh war for + the cause of the Lord of both worlds, Ismael ben Assherif Al + Hassanee to the Queen of the English, nay of England, and the + mistress of the great parliament thereof, happiness to every one + that followeth the right way, and believes in God, and is so + directed. + + This premised, we have heard from more than one of the comers and + goers from thy country, that thou hast seized our Armenian servant, + a person of great esteem. We sent him to thee, to compose a + difference between us and thee, and we wrote to thee concerning + him, that thou shouldst use him well. Then, after this, we heard + that thou didst set him at liberty: And wherefore didst thou seize + him? Hath he exceeded any covenant, or hath he made any covenant + with thee and broke it? We should not have sent him to thee, but on +393 account of our knowledge and assurance of his understanding and + integrity; and when he resolved upon his journey into your country, + we gave him directions to dispatch some of our affairs. Wherefore + we wrote unto thee concerning him, and said, If thou hast any + necessity or business with us, he will convey it to us from thee. + And we said unto thee, Speak with him, and whatsoever thou sayest + unto him, he will communicate unto us, without addition or + diminution. + + As for what our servant Alkaid Ali ben Abdallah did to ----, the + Christian, thy servant, by God we know nothing of it, nor gave him + any permission as to any thing that passed between them; and, at + the instant that we heard that he had taken thy man, we commanded + him to set him at liberty forthwith; and since then we have never + manifested any favour to Alkaid Ali, nor was our mind ever right + towards him afterwards till he died. + + Our Christian servant, the merchant, Bayly, told us, that thou + hadst a mind to an ostrich, and we gave him two, a male and a + female, which shall come to you, if God will. And, lo! a secretary, + our servant, (who is much esteemed by us,) when he cometh he shall + bring what goods he hath collected with him, if it please God. And + we are in expectation of thy messenger the ambassador; and if he + comes, he shall see nothing from us but what is fair; and we will + deliver to him the Christians, and do what he pleases, if God will. + Wherefore be kind to our servant, with respect. +394 + Written the first of the Glorious Ramadan, in the year of the Hejra + 1125 (corresponding with A.D. 1710). + + + LETTER V. + + _Translation of an Arabic Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed[221] + ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident + at Tangier, delivered to each of them, by the Bashaw of the + province of El Grarb, on 1st day of June, 1788, corresponding with + the year of the Hejra, 1202_. + + [Footnote 221: Father of the present Sultan Soliman ben + Muhamed.] + + L.S. + + Mohamed ben Abdallah, ben + Ismael, Sultan ben, Sultan, + &c. + + In the name of God, for there is no power or strength but from God. + + To all the Consuls at Tangier. + + Peace (be) to those who follow the right path. + + By this you will learn that we are in peace and friendship with all + the Christian powers until the month of May of the next year, (of + the Hejra, 1203,) and such nations as shall then be desirous to + continue in peace and friendship with us, are to write a letter to + us, when the month of May comes, to inform us if they are in peace + and friendship with us, then we shall be the same with them; but, + if any Christian nation desire to go to war with us, they will let +395 us know before the month above-mentioned; and we trust God will + keep us in his protection against them; and thus I have said all I + had to say. + + 2d day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1202, (corresponding with 7th + May, 1788.) + + + LETTER VI. + + _Letter from Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. + to His Majesty George III. literally translated from the original + Arabic, by James Grey Jackson, at the request of the Right Hon. + Spencer Perceval, after lying in the Secretary of State's Office + here for several months, and being then sent ineffectually to the + Universities for translation, and after various enquiries had been + made on behalf of the Emperor, to the Governor of Gibraltar, the + Bashaw of El Garb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any + answer had been returned to his Imperial Majesty._ + + In the name of God! the all-merciful and commiserating God, on whom + is our account, and we acknowledge his support; for there is + neither beginning nor power but that which proceeds from God, the + High Eternal God. + + From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful [in Muhamed] + upheld and supported by the Grace of God. + + Soliman the son of Muhamed, the son of Abdallah, the son of Ismael, + Prince of [the house or dynasty of Hassan][222] who was ever upheld +396 by the power of God, Sultan of Fas and Marocco, and Suse, and + Draha, and Tafilelt, and Tuat, together with all the territories of + the West. + + [Footnote 222: The words between brackets are not in the original, + but implied.] + + L.S. + + Soliman, son of Mohamed, son + Abdallah, God illumine and support + him! + + To our dearly beloved and cherished, exalted by the power of God, + the Sultan[223] George the Third, Sultan of the territories of the + United Kingdom of Great Britain, Ireland, Duke of Mecklenburg + Strelitz, Prince, descended from the dynasty of the Sultans of Rome + and Palestine, &c. + + This premised, we inform you, that we make diligent inquiry about + you, desiring heartily that you may be at all times surrounded by + health and prosperity. We wish you to increase in friendship with + us, that our alliance may be more strongly cemented than + heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors, + whom God guard and protect. + + Now therefore we make known to you, that your physician, Doctor + Buffe, has been in our royal presence, [which is] exalted by the + bounty of God, and we have been well pleased with his medical + knowledge and diligent attention, and moreover with the relief he + has given to us. + +397 We have therefore to entreat of you to give him your royal order to + return to Gibraltar, in our neighbourhood, well provided with all + good and necessary medicines; that he, residing at Gibraltar, may + be ready to attend quickly our royal presence, whenever we may be + in need of his [medical] assistance. We trust you will return him + without procrastination to our throne, seeing that he has been of + essential service to us. + + We recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffe, in your favour and esteem on + our account, and we will always be your allies and friends. May you + ever be well and in prosperity! Peace be with you, 4th of the month + Jumad El Lule in the year [of the Hejra] 1221, (corresponding with + 5th July, 1806, A.D.) + + [Footnote 223: This perhaps is the only letter extant, wherein + a Muselman Prince gives the title of Sultan to a Christian + king.] + + + LETTER VII. + + In Muhamedan countries, an insolvent man continues liable to his + creditors till the day of his death, unless the debt is discharged; + but he can claim by law his liberation from prison, on making oath, + and bringing proof of his insolvency: but then if he succeed + afterwards and become possessed of property, he is compelled to pay + the debts formerly contracted; so that an European should be + cautious how he contracts debts with the Moors, lest the + misfortunes that commerce is liable to should oblige him to remain + all his life in the country. A letter, similar to the following, +398 should be procured by every European, about to quit the country, to + prevent the extortion of the alkaid, who might, as has often + happened before, throw impediments in the way for the purpose of + extorting presents, &c. + + _Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated from + the Original Arabic, by James Grey Jackson._ + + L.S. + + Soliman ben Muhamed, ben + Abdallah, ben Ismael Sultan, + &c. + + Praise be to God alone. + + Our servants El Hage Mohamed o Bryhim, and Seid Mohamed Bel Akkia, + peace and the mercy of God be with you! This premised, I command + you to suffer the Christian merchant, Jackson, to embark for his + own country, if it appears to you that no one pursues him in law + [for debt,] as I wrote to you on this subject in my last letter: if + no one claims of him any right by law, allow him to go, and do not + impede him.[224] God protect you, and peace be with you. 3d day of + Saffer, the good year 1220 of the Hejra, (A.C. 1805.) + + [Footnote 224: This repetition of the principal subject in + Arabic correspondence, is a mode of impressing on the mind more + forcibly, the subject intended to be impressed, and is commonly + practised by the best Arabian, and African writers; it also + frequently occurs in the inspired writings. See Psalms lxxv, l. + lxxvii, 1. &c.] + + + LETTER VIII. + + As a specimen of the lofty style of writing so much in use among +399 the Eastern authors, I shall add the summons which Hulacu the + Tartar conqueror of the East, (who took Bagdad, and entirely + subverted the government of the Saracens,) sent to Al Malek + Annasar, sultan of Aleppo, in the year of the Hejra 657, (of Christ + 1259.) + + Let Al Malek Annasar know, that we sat down before Bagdad in the + 655th year (of the Hejra,) and took it by the sword of the most + high God: and we brought the master of it before us, and demanded + two things of him; to which he, not answering, brought deserved + punishment upon himself. As it is written in your Koran, "_God doth + not change the condition of a people, till their own minds are + changed_." He took care of his wealth, and fate brought him to what + he is come to. He chose to exchange precious lives for pieces of + money made of vile metal; which is plainly the same that God says + _They found_ [the reward of] _what they had done present with + them_.[225] For we have attained by the power of God, what we + desired; and by the help of the most high God we shall increase. + Nor is there any doubt of our being the army of God upon his earth. + He created us, and gave us power over every one upon whom his anger + rests. Wherefore, let what is past be to you an example, and what + we have mentioned a warning. Fortifications are nothing in our +400 hands, nor doth the joining of battle avail you any thing; nor will + your intreaties be heard or regarded. Take warning therefore by + others, and surrender entirely to us, before the veil be taken off, + and [_the punishment of_] sin light upon you. For we shall have no + mercy upon him that complains, nor be moved by him that weeps. We + have wasted countries, we have destroyed men, we have made children + orphans, and the land desolate. It is your business to run away; + ours to pursue; nor can you escape our swords, nor fly from our + arrows. Our horses are racers; our arrows strike home; our swords + pierce like lightning; our fortifications are like mountains, and + our numbers like the sand. Whosoever surrenders comes off safe: + whosoever is for war, repents it. If you will obey our command, and + come to our terms, your interest and ours shall be the same; but if + you be refractory and persist in your error, blame not us, but + yourselves. God is against you, ye wicked wretches: look out for + something to screen you under your miseries, and find somebody to + bear you company in your affliction. We have given you fair + warning, and fair warning is fair play. You have eaten things + forbidden[226], you have been perfidious in your treaties. You have + introduced new heresies, and thought it a gallant thing to commit +401 sodomy. Prepare yourselves therefore for scorn and contempt. Now + you will find what you have done; for they that have done amiss, + will now find their state changed. You take it for granted, that we + are infidels. We take it for granted, that you are _villains_; and + _He_ by whose hand all things are disposed and determined, hath + given us the dominion over you. The greatest man you have is + despicable among us; and what _you_ call rich, is a beggar. We + govern the world from east to west, and whosoever is worth any + thing is our prey; and we take every ship by force. Weigh therefore + what is fit to be done, and return us a speedy answer, before + _infidelity_[227] shall have kindled its fire, and scattered its + sparks among you, and destroy you all from off the face of the + earth. We have awakened you by sending to you: make haste with an + answer, lest punishment come upon you unawares. + + [Footnote 225: A quotation from the Koran. The Tartar was a + deist, and quotes the Koran in derision.] + + [Footnote 226: The Muhamedans, whose religion is a compound of + Judaism and Christianity, have borrowed many customs from + either, they abstain like the Jews from swine's flesh, &c.] + + [Footnote 227: As the Muhamedans charge every nation that doth + not believe Muhamed to have been a prophet with infidelity, so + the Tartar (who was a Deist) returns it upon them.] +402 + + LETTER IX. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to Webster + Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their + High Mightinesses the States-General, of the Seven United + Provinces. Written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and + previous to the Negotiation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer, + to Dutch Commerce._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God." + + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan ben Sultan, (i.e. Emperor and Son of an + Emperor.) + + "To the Consul Blount. Peace be with those who follow the right + way, or the way of the true God: and this being premised, know that + I have received your letter, and that we are with you, (the Dutch + nation,) in peace and amity and good faith, and peace be with you. + 22 Ramadan, year of the Hejra 1204, (A.C. 1792.)" + + Translated literally by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + + LETTER X. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid, to the Governor + of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the + Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God, the eternal God." +403 + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan + ben Sultan. + + "Our servant (or agent) Alkaid Aumer ben Daudy, peace be unto you, + with the mercy and blessing of God: this premised, I command that + all the duties you have collected be sent to me speedily by my + brother[228] Muley Soliman, who will (_berik_) discharge you by + receipt for every thing you deliver to him, for he is our + representative. We are preparing to go to the siege of Ceuta, with + the acquiescence of the High God, by whose power we hope to enter + it, and take it. And we command you to send the Alkaid M'saud El + Hayanie to my port of Agadeer, with all things necessary for his + journey, assisting him with every possible succour, and send with + him twenty Benianters[229], who must be sailors skilful in the + management of boats; and the Christian merchants of the Dutch + nation will go to Agadeer, and establish their houses there; for I + have given that port to the Dutch to trade there: and send with + them Talb Aumer Busedra, and the eye of God be upon you, and peace + be with you." + + [Footnote 228: The duties were at this time collected in kind; + viz. one tenth of every thing imported from Europe: and the + present Emperor Muly Soliman was deputed to convey them to the + camp before Ceuta, to his brother, the Emperor Muley Yezzid, + whose army was besieging that fortress.] + + [Footnote 229: _Benianters_, are a kabyle of Shelluhs of Suse, + who are employed to work, and row the boats, and land the goods + at Mogodor.] +404 + Seventh day of Arrabea Ellule, year (Hejra) 1205.[230] + + Translated by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + "Be vigilant with respect to the matter of the establishment of + Agadeer, and of M'saud El Hayanie." [231] + + [Footnote 230: Corresponding with A.C. 1793.] + + [Footnote 231: The Emperors of Marocco, and the Arabian writers + in general thus repeat the principal subject of a letter or + discourse, to impress it more forcibly on the mind.] + + + LETTER XI. + + _Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa, in their + Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan + faith_. + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength without God, the eternal God. + + "From the servant of the great God, El Hage Abdrahaman El Fellely, + to my friend Consul Jackson, peace be to those who follow the right + way, or who pursue the right path; and then, O my friend, I have + received your letter, and I have taken good notice of its contents, + &c. &c." + + The letter, after explaining matters of business, concludes thus:-- + + "Do not leave me without news from you; and peace be with you, and + peace from me to our friend L'hage Muhamed Bu Zeyd; and peace from + me to Seed Muham'd bel Hassen, and to the Fakeer Seed Abdallah, and +405 praise be to God, I am very well, and prosperous." + + "Written 15th day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1209, (1797, A.C.)" + + The style in which letters are addressed is generally as follows:-- + + "This shall arrive, God willing, to the hands of Consul Jackson, at + Agadeer. May God prosper it." + + + LETTER XII. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Sultan, Seedi Muhamed Emperor of + Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor_. + + "Praise be to God alone, + + "I order my servant Alkaid Muhamed ben Amran, to deliver the + treasure and the merchandise to the Christian merchants at Mogodor, + which is in the possession of the Jews, Haim Miram, and Meemon ben + Isaac Corcos, and others of the Jews, friends of the Christian + merchants. God assist you, and peace be with you. 23d of the month + Jumad Ellule, year of the Hejra 1203. + + "By order of the Sultan, empowered by God. Written by Talb El + Huderanie." + + The courier who receives the letter is ordered by the minister whom + to deliver it to. It is then inclosed in a blank leaf or sheet of + paper, without any address, and not sealed. It is presumed, that + the courier or messenger will not dare to open it, or discover the + contents to any one; such a breach of confidence might cost him his + head, if discovered. +406 + _Doubts having been made in the Daily Papers, concerning the + accuracy of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of Mungo Park's Death; the following Observations, by the + Author, are laid before the Public in elucidation of those + Translations_. + + The following is a copy of a letter, supposed to be a description + of Mungo Park's death; brought to England from Ashantee in Africa, + by Mr. Bowdich; and that gentleman assured me, about six months + after his arrival in England, and a few days previous to the + publication of his interesting account of a mission to Ashantee, + that he had by every means in his power endeavoured, but + ineffectually, to get this manuscript _decyphered_ and translated + into English; that he had sent it to several persons, who had + retained it in their hands a considerable time, but had returned it + without a decypher, or even a complete translation. When delivered + into my hands, I transmitted him a _decypher_, and a translation + immediately. The following is my translation, which, in that + gentleman's account of Ashantee, is coupled with another + translation, _not perspicuous, but unintelligible_; for which see + Bowdich's "Account of a Mission to Ashantee," Appendix, No. 2. + + The original Arabic document, of which I have given a decypher in +407 the work before mentioned, is, (for the information of gentlemen + desirous of referring to the same,) deposited in the British + Museum. There are also, in the same work on Ashantee, several + papers decyphered by me, of certain routes in Africa. Now I think + it expedient here, to declare to the public, that whenever the + British Government, the Court of Admiralty, or private individuals, + have stood in need of translations, and decyphers from the Arabic, + they have invariably found it expedient, ultimately, to apply to me + for the same, after having, however, endeavoured ineffectually to + procure their information at the Universities, the Post Office, and + elsewhere: but as this declaration may appear to many incredible, I + will mention three instances in elucidation of this my assertion, + which, as they are all on record, will place this fact beyond + doubt. + + 1st. A vessel under Marocco colours, was, during last war, taken by + a British cruiser, and sent or brought into Plymouth, or other + port, in England. The captain and the ship were detained a + considerable time here; the former, at length, whose patience + became exhausted, expostulated at his detention, and insisted on + being released, if no interpreter in this commercial nation could + be found competent to translate his passport. _Mr. Slade, an + eminent proctor in Doctors' Commons_, then applied to me, after a + detention of, I believe, two months, and I translated the passport. +408 Mr. Slade very liberally told me, that whatever I chose to charge + for this service, which he had _sought in vain to accomplish_, + should be gratefully paid. I charged five guineas; and it was + instantly paid. The passport consisted of two lines and a half. + This was in the Court of Admiralty. Mr. Slade, who is an honourable + and respectable man, will of course not hesitate to corroborate the + accuracy of this statement. + + 2d. A letter was written by the present Sultan Soliman, emperor of + Marocco, &c. to our late revered sovereign, George III., in a more + courteous style than is usual for Muhamedan potentates to write to + Christian kings; with liberal offers on the part of the Sultan, + courting an augmentation of friendly intercourse, &c. This letter + (contrary to the usual courtesy of European courts) was neglected + some months, no answer being returned to it. It was sent to the + Universities for translation, but ineffectually; then to the Post + Office; and, at the expiration of some months, it was accidentally + transmitted to me, through the hands of the Right Honourable + Spencer Perceval, at that time Chancellor of the Exchequer, and I + delivered, at the request of that gentleman, a translation of it in + English. This letter was ten or fifteen times as long as the + passport before mentioned, and I charged thirty pounds for the + service. But the Treasury thought ten pounds a sufficient + remuneration, which I accepted!! +409 + This service was rendered to the British government, and I have + letters and documents in my possession, which corroborate this + fact. + + 3d. Was the translation of an Arabic manuscript, respecting Mungo + Park's death; delivered gratuitously to a private individual, viz. + Mr. Bowdich, before mentioned; to satisfy the curiosity of my + country, whose interest was excited respecting the fate of that + enterprising and indefatigable African traveller. Mr. Bowdich, who + is an honourable man, will undoubtedly confirm the truth of this + statement, to any gentleman who may be desirous of ascertaining the + fact. + + _The Shereef Ibrahim's account of Mungo Park's Death_. + + (THE AUTHOR'S TRANSLATION.) + + "In the name of God, the Merciful and Clement! + + "This narrative proceeds from the territory in Husa, called Eeaurie + or Yeaurie. We observed an extraordinary event or circumstance, but + we neither saw nor heard of the river which is called Kude. And as + we were sitting we heard the voice of children; and we saw a + vessel, the like to which in size we never saw before. And we saw + the king of Eeaurie send cattle and sheep, and a variety of + vegetables, in great abundance. And there were two men and one + woman, and two slaves; and they tied them in the vessel. There were +410 also in the vessel two white men, of the race called Christians: + and the Sultan of Eeaurie called aloud to them, to come out of the + vessel, but they would not. They proceeded to the country of Busa, + which is greater than that of the Sultan of Eeaurie. And as they + were sitting in the vessel, they hung[232], or were stopped by the + cape, or head-land of Kude." + + [Footnote 232: Probably by an impetuous current.] + + "And the people of the sultan of Busa called to them, and poured + their arms into the vessel; and the vessel reached the head-land or + cliff, and became attached or fixed to the head of the mountain or + projection in the river, and could not pass it. Then the men and + women of Busa collected themselves hostilely together, with arms of + all descriptions; and the vessel being unable to clear the + head-land, the man in the vessel killed his wife, and threw the + whole of her property into the river; they then threw themselves + into the river through fear. The news of this occurrence was then + conveyed to the Sultan Wawee, until it reached, by water, the + territory of Kanjee, in the country of the Sultan Wawee. And we + buried it in its earth; and one of them we saw not at all in the + water. And God knows the truth of this report from the mouth of the + Shereef Ibrahim. The end." + +411 OBSERVATION. + + After giving the foregoing translation, it behoves me to inform the + intelligent reader, that I wrote a letter to Mr. Bowdich, + communicating to him my observations on several notes, transmitted + to him by Sir William Ouseley, on the manuscript of which the + foregoing is a translation, in which I informed him, that in + decyphering the Arabic manuscript, I had observed the Oriental or + Asiatic punctuation; knowing that Mr. Bulmer had not letters with + the occidental punctuation. Several observations I made, respecting + the Arabic manuscripts which could not be elucidated here without + the Arabic type. I shall, therefore, omit them, and conclude by + observing, that in translating this manuscript, two gentlemen + (Arabic scholars) had translated _akkadan Fie Asfeena_, "two maids + in the ship;" which words I have translated, "were tied or bound in + the vessel:" the word _akkadan_ being the preterite of the verb + _akkad_, to bind. I was not surprised to hear that _one_ translator + had made such an interpretation; knowing that incredible errors + have been frequently committed by professed Professors in the + Hebrew language as well as in the Arabic. But when I heard, as I + did, that another Arabic scholar had given a similar + interpretation, I must confess that I was not a little surprised. + However, a circumstance soon after unravelled the mystery; for I + discovered that these two gentlemen, at a loss no doubt to +412 ascertain the meaning of _akkadan_, had referred to Richardson's + Arabic Dictionary, wherein the word is quoted to signify, in a + figurative sense, a virgin. _In a figurative sense!_ In translating + an ill-written, illiterate, and ungrammatical manuscript, these two + translators had had recourse to _rhetorical figures_, and actually + substituted a trope for what was a verb, generally used in the + West, signifying "to bind!" + + As it has been asserted in the following extract, that my + translation of the foregoing manuscript differs _only in a trifling + degree_ from that of Mr. Abraham Salame, I here insert my answer to + that assertion, leaving the intelligent reader to determine, + whether they are alike or materially different. + + _Extract from The Times, 3d May, 1819_. + + MUNGO PARK. + + The death of this enterprising traveller is now placed beyond any + doubt. Many accounts of it have been received, and although varying + as to the circumstances attending it, yet all agreeing that it has + taken place. One statement was given to Mr. Bowdich, while on his + mission to the King of the Ashantees, in 1817, by a Moor, who said + that he was an eye-witness; and the same gentleman procured an + Arabic manuscript declaratory of Mr. Park's death. This manuscript + has been deposited with the African Association, formed for the +413 purpose of extending researches in that part of the world. Two + translations have been made of this curious document; one by Mr. + Salame, an Egyptian, who accompanied Viscount Exmouth in his attack + on Algiers, as interpreter; and the other by Mr. Jackson, formerly + consul at one of the Barbary courts. The following is Mr. Salame's + translation, from which, however, _the one by Mr. Jackson only + differs in a trifling degree_. The words in italics have been + inserted by Mr. Salame, in order to render the reading more + perfect, and are not in the original:-- + + _A literal Translation of a Declaration written in a corrupted + Arabic, from the Town of Yaud, in the Interior of Africa_. + + "'In the name of God, the merciful and the munificent. This + declaration is issued from the town called Yaud, in the county of + Kossa. We (the writer) do witness the _following_ case (statement.) + We never saw, nor heard of the sea (river) called Koodd; but we sat + to hear (understood) the voice (report) of some persons, _saying_, + 'We saw a ship, equal to her we never saw before; and the King of + Yaud had sent plenty of every kind of food, with cows and sheep; + _there_ were two men, one woman, two male slaves, and two maids in + the ship; _the_ two white men _were_ derived from the race (sect) +414 of Nassri (Christ, or Christianity.) The King of Yaud asked them to + come out to him (to land); but they refused coming out (landing); + and they went to the _King_ of the country of Bassa, who is greater + than the King of Yaud; and _while_ they _were_ sitting in the ship, + and gaining a position (rounding) over the Cape of Koodd, and + _were_ in society with the people of the King of Bassa, the ship + reached (struck) a head of mountain, which took (destroyed) _her_ + away, and the men and women of Bassa all together, with every kind + of arms (goods); and the ship could find no way to avoid the + mountain; and the man who _was_ in the ship, killed his wife, and + threw all his property into the sea (river), and _then_ they threw + themselves _also_, from fear. Afterwards they took one _out of the_ + water till the news reached the town of Kanji, the country of the + King of Wawi; and the King of Wawi heard of it; he buried him in + his earth (grave), and the other we have not seen; perhaps he is in + the bottom of the water. And God knows best.' Authentic from the + mouth of Sherif Abraham.--Finis.' + + "In addition to the foregoing, another corroboration has been + obtained. Lieut. Col. Fitzclarence, when on his voyage down the + Mediterranean on board the _Tagus_ frigate, Capt. Dundas, with + despatches from the Marquis of Hastings, learnt from the governor + to the two sons of the Emperor of Marocco, who had been on a + pilgrimage to Mecca, and were then returning home, that he (Hadjee +415 Tahib) had been at Timbuctoo in 1807, and had heard of _two white_ + men, who came from the sea, having been near that place the year + before; and that they sold beads, and had no money to purchase + grain. This person added, that they went down the _Nile_ to the + eastward, and that general report stated that they _died of the + climate_. There can be little doubt but the _two white_ men here + alluded to were Mr. Park and his companion, Lieutenant Martyn, who + were at Sandsanding in Nov. 1805, and could, in the following year, + have been near Timbuctoo. Sandsanding is the place from whence the + last dispatches were dated by Mr. Park; and Amadi Fatouma, who was + his guide afterwards, was sent to learn his fate, and returned with + an account of Mr. Park being drowned. The statement of this person + was, however, of such a nature as to excite suspicions of its + correctness; and hopes were entertained that Mr. Park had not met + with such an untimely fate. Fourteen years have now almost elapsed + since the date of his last dispatches; and this circumstance is of + itself sufficient to demonstrate, that he is to be added to the + catalogue of those who have perished in their attempts to explore + the interior of Africa.--_Englishman_." + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE BRITISH STATESMAN. + + Sir;--Seeing in your Paper of yesterday a translation of the Arabic +416 manuscript respecting Mr. Mungo Park's death, which is deposited + with the African Association, and _decyphered and transcribed by + me_ in Mr. Bowdich's account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480, and + perceiving that the errors in _that translation_ are thus + propagated to the public through the medium of the London Papers; + which although perhaps of little consequence to the general reader, + yet, as they are of importance to the critic, and to the + investigator of African affairs, I shall take the liberty of + offering a few observations on the subject. + + The following passage, in the translation above alluded to, might + have passed the public eye without animadversion as the language of + a foreigner, (as we have understood Mr. Salame to be,) but from the + intelligent Editor of a London daily paper, might we not have + expected more correct phraseology?[233] + + [Footnote 233: "The phrases thus objected to by our learned + Correspondent, were contained in the translations furnished to + us in common with other papers, and not the language of the + Editor. Indeed, this appears to be admitted by our + Correspondent himself, in the apparently very just comments he + has thus favoured us with.--EDITOR."] + + "The ship reached a head of mountain which took her away, and the + men and women of Bassa, altogether with every kind of arms, and the + ship could find no way to avoid the mountain." + + I have no hesitation in declaring to be incorrect the first two +417 lines of Mr. Abraham Salame's translation, inserted in your paper + of yesterday, which runs thus:-- + + "_This declaration is issued from the town called YAUD, in the + country of KOSSA_." + + My translation of this passage, inserted in Mr. Bowdich's account + of a Mission to Ashantee, page 478, runs thus:-- + + "_This narrative proceeds from the territory in HAUSA called + ECAUREE_." + + No one, I presume, will say that there is not a _manifest_ + difference between these two translations--between _the town called + Yaud, in the country of Kossa_, and the _territory of Hausa, called + Ecauree_. + + One of these translations must therefore necessarily be incorrect. + The Arabic manuscript decyphered and transcribed by me, is inserted + in Mr. Bowdich's work, page 480. Those who may feel interested in + ascertaining which is the correct and precise translation, are + requested to refer to the transcript above-mentioned, or to the + original manuscript, in the possession of the African Association. + As for myself, I presume I am right; and would submit the decision + to the judgment of either Sir Gore Ousley, or to that of Sir + William, or to the opinion of any Arabic scholar, to decide this + question. + + If, Mr. Editor, you had an Arabic type, to save the trouble of + referring to the original, I should ask the Arabic scholar if it + were possible for any man to translate the following passage in +418 that document:--"Bled Hausa eekalu Ecuree"--"the town called Yaud, + in the country of Cossa;" whilst I should maintain that it would + admit of no other translation but the following, viz.--"the country + of Hausa, called Ecauree." + + If you think this elucidation of the translation of the Manuscript + of Park's death sufficiently interesting to the public to deserve a + place in your intelligent paper, it is very much at your service. + + From, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + Professor of African Languages, and formerly British Consul and + Agent for Holland, Sweden, and Denmark, at Santa Cruz, South + Barbary.[234] + + _Circus, Minories, May 4._ 1819. + + [Footnote 234: See BRITISH STATESMAN, May 6th, 1819.] + +419 + + LETTERS RESPECTING AFRICA, + FROM + _J.G. JACKSON AND OTHERS._ + + + + + _On the Plague._ + + To JAMES WILLIS, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. + + London, October 30, 1804. + + My dear Sir, + + Your letter reached my hands yesterday; but I am afraid I shall not + be able to satisfy you in every enquiry which you have made + relative to the plague in Barbary in 1799. I have, however, no + doubt but the plague which has prevailed in Spain has originated + from it. Some of the following observations may probably be of + service to you. + + It does not appear to be ascertained how the plague originated in + Fas in the year 1799. Some persons have ascribed it to infected + merchandise received at Fas from the East; whilst others maintain + that the locusts which had infested Western Barbary during seven + years, destroying the crops, the vegetables, and every green thing, + even to the bark of the trees, produced such a scarcity, that the +420 poor could obtain scarcely any thing to eat but the locusts; and + living on them for several months, till a most abundant crop + enabled them to satisfy the cravings of nature, they ate abundantly + of the new corn, which producing a fever, brought on the contagion. + At this time the small-pox pervaded the country, and was generally + fatal. The small-pox is thought to be the forerunner of this + species of contagion, as appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, + which gives a full account of the same disorder having carried off + two-thirds of the inhabitants of West Barbary about four hundred + years since; but, however the dreadful epidemy originated, the + leading features of the disorder were novel, and more dreadful than + the common plague of Turkey, or that of Syria or Egypt, as the + following observations will demonstrate. + + In the month of April, 1799, a plague of the most dreadful kind + manifested itself at the city of Old Fas, which soon after + communicated itself to the new city. About this time the Emperor + Muley Soliman ben Muhamed was preparing a numerous army, and was on + the eve of departure to visit his Southern dominions, and to take + possession of the province of Abda, which had not acknowledged him + as Emperor, but was, as well as the port of Saffy, in a state of + rebellion. The Emperor left Fas early in the summer, and proceeded + to Sallee, Mazagan, and Saffee; thence to Marocco and Mogodor. Now + the plague began to kindle in all the Southern provinces, first + carrying off one or two the first day, three or four the second +421 day, six or eight the third day, and increasing progressively till + it amounted to a daily mortality of two in a hundred of the whole + population; continuing _with unabated violence_, ten, fifteen, + twenty days, being of longer duration in old than in new towns; + then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one thousand + a-day, to nine hundred, to eight hundred and so continuing to + decrease till it disappeared. + + When it raged at the town of Mogodor, a small village (Deabet) + situated two miles South-east of Mogodor remained uninfected, + although the communication was open between these two places. On + the thirty-fourth day after its first appearance at Mogodor, this + village received the infection, where, after committing dreadful + havock among the human species for twenty-one days carried off one + hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, the population + of the village before the plague visited it. After this, none died; + but those who were infected recovered, some losing the use of a + leg, or an arm, or an eye. + + Many similar circumstances might be mentioned relative to the + numerous villages scattered about the extensive province of Haha, + all which shared the like, or a worse fate. Travelling through this + province after the plague had disappeared, I saw many ruins, which + had been flourishing villages before the plague. Making enquiry + concerning the population of these dismal remains of the +422 pestilence, I was informed, that one village contained six hundred + inhabitants; that only four had escaped. Others, which had + contained four and five hundred, had left seven or eight to lament + the calamities they had suffered. + + Whenever any families retired to the country, to avoid the + infection; on returning to town, when apparently all infection had + disappeared, they were generally attacked, and died. The + destruction of the human species in the province of Upper and + LowerSuse was much greater than elsewhere. The capital city of this + province (Tarodant) lost, when the infection was at its _acme_, + about eight hundred each day; the city of Marocco lost one thousand + each day; the cities of Old and New Fas from twelve to fifteen + hundred each day; insomuch, that, in these large towns, the + mortality was such, that the living had not time to bury the dead: + they were therefore thrown altogether into large holes, which were + covered over when full of dead bodies. + + Young and healthy robust persons were generally attacked first; + then women and children; lastly, thin, sickly, and old people. + _After the plague had totally subsided, we saw men, who had been + common labourers, enjoying their thousands, and keeping horses, + without knowing how to ride them. Provisions became extremely + cheap, for the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + had nobody now to own them. Day-labour increased enormously. Never +423 was equality in the human species more evident than at this time_. + _When corn was to be ground, or bread made, both were done in the + houses of the rich, and prepared by themselves; for the very few + poor people whom the plague had spared were insufficient for the + wants of the affluent, and they were consequently obliged to work + for themselves_. The country being now depopulated, vast tribes of + Arabs from the Desert poured into Suse and Draha; settling + themselves on the river Draha and in Suse, and wherever they found + little or no population. + + The symptoms of the disorder varied in different patients; in some + it manifested itself by a sudden shivering, in others by delirium, + succeeded by a violent thirst. Cold water was drank eagerly by the + imprudent, and generally proved fatal. Some had one, two, or three, + some more biles, generally in the groin, under the arm, or near the + breast; some had more. Some had no biles, nor any outward + disfiguration; these were invariably carried off in less than + twenty-four hours. I recommended Mr. Baldwin's remedy[235], applied + according to his directions; and I do not know one instance of its + failing, when properly applied, and sufficiently persevered in. + + [Footnote 235: Of unction of the body with olive oil.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy, which has been ravaging Spain + lately, is the same disorder with the one above described. We have + been told that it was communicated originally to Spain by two +424 infected persons, who went from Tangier to Estapona, and eluded the + vigilance of the guards. We have been assured that it was + communicated by some persons infected, who landed in Spain from a + vessel that had loaded produce at Laraich, in West Barbary. We have + also been informed that a Spanish privateer, which had occasion to + land its crew for water in some part of West Barbary, caught the + infection, and afterwards went to Cadiz and communicated it to the + town. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + _Death of Mungo Park_. + + May, 1812. + + The doubts which may have existed of the fate of this eminent man + are now removed, by the certain accounts lately received from + Goree, of his having perished, through the hostility of the + natives, on one of the branches of the Niger. The particulars have + been transmitted to Sir Joseph Banks, by Governor Maxwell, of + Goree, who received them from Isaco[236], a Moor, sent inland by + the Governor, for the purpose of enquiry. In a letter to Mr. + Dickson, of Covent-garden, brother-in-law to Mr. Park, Sir Joseph + thus writes:-- + + "I have read Isaco's translated journal; by which it appears, that +425 the numerous European retinue of Mungq Park quickly and miserably + died, leaving, at the last, only himself and a Mr. Martyn. + Proceeding on their route, they stopped at a settlement, from + which, according to custom, they sent a present to the chief whose + territory they were next to pass. This present having been + treacherously withheld, the chief considered it, in the travellers, + as a designed injury and neglect. _On their approaching, in a + canoe, he assembled his people on a narrow channel of rocks[237], + and assailed them so violently with arrows, that some of the rowers + were killed_. This caused Mr. Park and Mr. Martyn to make an effort + by swimming to reach the shore; in which attempt they both were + drowned. The canoe shortly afterwards sunk, and only one hired + native escaped. Every appurtenance also of the travellers was lost + or destroyed, except a sword-belt which had belonged to Mr. Martyn, + and which Isaco redeemed, and brought with him to Goree." + + [Footnote 236: Isaco was a Jew, not a Moor.--J.G.J.] + + [Footnote 237: There is a remarkable confirmation of this + quotation from Sir Joseph's letter in Mr. _Jackson's_ + translation of the Arabic manuscript of Mungo Park's death, for + which see Bowdich's Account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480.; + also Annals of Oriental Literature, No. I.] + + _Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of + Africa_. + + May, 1812. + + The young German gentleman of the name of Rontgen, who left England +426 about a twelve-month since for Africa, in order to prosecute + discoveries in the interior of that country, has, it is said, been + murdered by the Arabs, before he had proceeded any great distance + from Mogodor, where he spent some time perfecting himself in the + Arabic language. He was a promising young man, and an enthusiast in + the cause in which he was lost, and supposed to understand the + Arabic language better than any European who ever before entered + Africa. At an early age he formed the plan of going to that + country, and gave up his connections and a competency in Germany, + to prosecute his intentions. His father was a character well known + in Europe, who raised himself from obscurity to the greatest + celebrity by his talent for mechanics. He was at one time worth a + million, but was ruined by the French revolution. + + _The following Letter from James Willis, Esq. late Consul to + Senigambia, is extracted from the Gentleman's Magazine for May, + 1812_. + + COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. + + May 5. 1812. + + At a time when our ancient rivals and enemies are exerting all + their powers to destroy the British commerce, and have nearly + effected their gigantic schemes of cutting off all communication + between Great Britain and the various ports, states, and kingdoms + of Europe; at such a time when we are in imminent danger of losing +427 the markets of a quarter of the globe, it becomes essentially + important to discover other channels for our commerce, and other + markets for our manufactures. + + In this point of view, the information lately communicated to the + public by Mr. James Grey Jackson, in his "Travels in Africa," + becomes highly interesting to the statesman as well as to the + merchant. From the account which he has given of the city of + Timbuctoo, and its commercial relations, there is great reason to + conclude, that if we could find means to open and maintain a safe + and easy communication with that great emporium, and with the rich, + fertile, and populous regions in its vicinity, we might acquire a + market for our manufactures, that would in time compensate for the + loss of that of Europe. + + In the warehouses of Timbuctoo, are accumulated the manufactures of + India and of Europe; and from thence the immense population that + dwells upon the banks of the Niger is supplied. There is no doubt + that we could furnish the articles they want, upon much lower terms + than they can obtain them at present; and, in return, we should + furnish the best market they could have for their gold, ivory, + gums, and other rich products, and raw materials. + + Now, it certainly appears to me, and I think it must appear to + every man who takes the trouble of investigating the subject, that, + provided Government would give proper support to the enterprise, + this important communication might easily be established. _For this +428 purpose, nothing more is necessary than to take a fortified station + upon the African coast, somewhere about the 29th degree of north + latitude, near the confines of the Marocco dominions, to serve as a + safe magazine or emporium for merchandize. From this station it + would be easy to maintain a direct correspondence with the opulent + merchants of Timbuctoo; regular caravans might be established to + depart at fixed periods; the protection of the Arabs can at all + times be purchased at stipulated prices, which may be considered as + premiums of insurance, or as a tax for convoy_, and thus in a + little time these caravans might carry out merchandize, to and from + Timbuctoo, with as much regularity and safety, and with less + expense, than our fleets convey our goods to and from the West + Indies. + + The expense of such a fortified station as is here proposed, would + be very moderate, in comparison with the advantages it would + produce; and it would be easy to draw out a plan for it; but I do + not think it would be proper to go into a detail here,--_"non est + hic locus."_ + + It has been well observed, that commerce is the key of Africa; and + I shall only add, that if the plan I have suggested were carried + into execution, these interesting regions of Africa, that have + heretofore baffled the attempts of curiosity and enterprise, and + remained for so many ages a "sealed book" to the inhabitants of + Europe, would soon be explored and laid open. This is an object +429 that cannot be indifferent to a prince, who has so evidently + evinced a desire to patronise science, and who is undoubtedly + desirous to encourage, to facilitate, and to increase, still + further the vast geographical discoveries which have added such + lustre to the reign of his august father. + + To return to Mr. Jackson's book. This work contains, besides the + information that more directly concerns the statesman and the + merchant, much interesting matter for the natural and moral + philosopher, as well as for the general reader. The author makes no + pretension to fine writing; his style is plain, unaffected, and + perspicuous, and there is as much new, authentic, and important + matter in the book, as in the hands of the French writers of + African travels, (Golberry, Vaillant, and Savary, for instance,) + would have been spread over three times the space. Upon the whole, + it is the most valuable work of the kind that has appeared for many + years. I hope the author will reap the reward which his labours + have so well deserved. + + JAMES WILLIS. + + _Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called + Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in + Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication + between Timbuctoo and Egypt_. + + Sir, + + The venomous spider (_Tendaraman_). This beautiful reptile is + somewhat similar to a hornet in size and colour, but of a rounder +430 form; its legs are about an inch long, black, and very strong; it + has two bright yellow lines, latitudinally crossing its back; it + forms its web octagonally between bushes, the diameter being two or + three yards; it places itself in the centre of its web, which is so + fine, as to be almost invisible, and attaches to whatever may pass + between those bushes. It is said to make always towards the head, + before it inflicts its deadly wound. In the cork forests, the + sportsman, eager in his pursuit of game, frequently carries away on + his garments the _tenderaman_, whose bite is so poisonous, that the + patient survives but a few hours. + + Charmers of serpents (_Aisawie_).--These _Aisawie_ have a + considerable sanctuary at Fas. They go to Suse in large bodies + about the month of July to collect serpents, which they pretend to + render harmless by a certain form of words, incantation, or + invocation to _Seedy ben Aisah_, their tutelary saint. They have an + annual feast, at which time they dance and shake their heads + quickly, during a certain period, till they become giddy, when they + run about the towns frantic, attacking any person that may have a + black or dark dress on; they bite, scratch, and devour any thing + that comes in their way. They will attack an _unjumma_, or portable + fire, and tear the lighted charcoal to pieces with their hands and + mouths. I have seen them take the serpents, which they carry about, + and devour them alive, the blood streaming down their clothes. The +431 incredible accounts of their feats would fill a volume; the + following observations may suffice to give the reader an idea of + these extraordinary fanatics. The _buska_ and the [238]_el effah_ + are enticed out of their holes by them; they handle them with + impunity, though their bite is ascertained to be mortal; they put + them into a cane basket, and throw it over their shoulders: these + serpents they carry about the country, and exhibit them to the + people. I have seen them play with them, and suffer them to twist + round their bodies in all directions, without receiving any injury + from them. I have often enquired how they managed to do this, but + never could get any direct or satisfactory answer; they assure you, + however, that faith in their saint, and the powerful influence of + the name of the divinity, (_Isim Allah_,) enables them to work + these miracles: they maintain themselves in a miserable way, by + donations from the spectators before whom they exhibit. This art of + fascinating serpents was known by the ancient Africans, as appears + from the _Marii_ and _Psilii_, who were Africans, and showed proofs + of it at Rome. + + [Footnote 238: For a description of these deadly serpents, see + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. chapter on Zoology.] + + _Bu Telleese Nyctalopia_.--This ophthalmic disease is little known + in the northern provinces; but in Suse and Sahara it prevails. A + defect of vision comes on at dusk, but without pain; the patient is +432 deprived of sight, so that he cannot see distinctly, even with the + assistance of candles. During my residence at Agadeer, a cousin of + mine was dreadfully afflicted with this troublesome disease, losing + his sight at evening, and continuing in that state till the rising + sun. A Deleim Arab, a famous physician, communicated to me a + sovereign remedy, which being extremely simple, I had not + sufficient faith in his prescription to give it a trial, till + reflecting that the simplicity of the remedy was such as to + preclude the possibility of its being injurious, it was applied + inwardly; and twelve hours afterwards, to my astonishment, the + boy's eyes were perfectly well, and continued so during twenty-one + days, when I again had recourse to the same remedy, and it effected + a cure, on one administration, during thirty days, when it again + attacked him; the remedy was again applied with the same beneficial + effect as before. + + _Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia, or Night + Blindness_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA.) + + Sir, + + Having read your animadversions on the additional matter introduced + in my second edition of an "Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo," &c. + (see Literary Panorama for April last, p. 713.) wherein you +433 conceive that I am reprehensible for not having discovered publicly + the remedy alluded to as an infallible cure to the _Butellise_ or + _Nyctalopia_, I should observe that I was not apprised, (till I + read those animadversions,) that this was a disorder incident to + the inhabitants in Europe, or that it affected our seamen on the + Mediterranean station. But, if that be the case, and it should be + found expedient and beneficial to the interests of Great Britain, + that this remedy should be divulged for the alleviation of our + meritorious seamen in His Majesty's service, I am willing to make + the discovery to any respectable medical man who may be appointed + by Government as physician or surgeon on the Mediterranean station. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + May 18. 1812. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA. + + Circus, Minories, June 21. 1815. + + Sir, + + I request you will contradict in your next publication the + assertion of my _decease_, which is calculated to injure + considerably my interests abroad as a merchant. (Vide your Review + of Parke's Travels, page 377.) In answer to this unfounded + information, which has been propagated in your review of last + month, I have to acquaint you that I am not only in the land of the + living, but in excellent health, and waiting to hear the testimony +434 of some stranger or European traveller (since the Africans are not + to be relied on), who shall establish the fact of _the junction of + the Nile of Sudan with that of Egypt; or at least, the + approximation of these two mighty streams_. And notwithstanding + _the_ insidious reflections and censures passed on the native + Africans, from whom I gathered much of the information communicated + to the public in my account of Marocco, it must be allowed by all + liberal-minded men, that a native is more likely to give an + accurate account of his country than a foreigner; and a residence + of sixteen years in a country may be allowed to give a man of + common observation experience enough to select judiciously such + intelligence as might be relied on; and I have no hesitation in + declaring it to be my unalterable opinion, that _so soon as a + traveller shall have returned from the interior of Africa, many of + my assertions respecting those regions will be confirmed_, and that + information founded on the testimony of unprejudiced and + disinterested Africans, will be found not so contemptible as some + learned persons have imagined. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. +435 + + _Critical Observations on Abstracts from the Travels of Ali Bey, + and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, + and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, + Vol. I. No. II. page 264_. + + London, Dec. 19. 1817. + + In the discussion on Aly Bey's Travels, in the Journal of Science + and the Arts, above mentioned, p. 270. are the following words:-- + + "Aly Bey has added, in a separate chapter, all the information he + received, respecting a mediterranean sea, from a merchant of + Marocco, of the name of Sidi Matte Buhlal, who had resided many + years at Timbuctoo, and in other countries of Sudan or Nigritia, + the most material of which was, that Tombut is a large town, very + trading, and inhabited by Moors and Negroes, and was at the same + distance from the Nile Abid, (or Nile of the Negroes, or Niger,) as + Fez is from Wed Sebu, that is to say, _about three hundred English + miles_." + + As this passage is quoted from Aly Bey, by the first literary + society of Great Britain, and is, therefore, calculated to create a + doubt of the accuracy of what I have said, respecting the distance + of the Nile El Abeed from Timbuctoo, in the enlarged editions of my + account of Marocco, &c. page 297. I consider it a duty which I owe +436 to my country and to myself, not to let this sentence pass through + the press without submitting to the public my observations on the + subject. + + Sidi Matte Buhlal is a native of Fas: the name is properly Sidi El + Mattie Bu Hellal. This gentleman is one out of twenty authorities + from whom I derived the information recorded in my account of + Marocco, respecting Timbuctoo and the interior of Africa; his whole + family, which is respectable and numerous, are among the first + Timbuctoo merchants that have their establishments at Fas. I + should, however, add, that among the many authorities from whom I + derived my information relative to Timbuctoo, there were two + muselmen in particular,--merchants of respectability and + intelligence, who came from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, soon after _I + opened that port to Dutch commerce, in the capacity of agent of + Holland, by order of the then Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid_, + brother and predecessor of the present Emperor Soliman. These two + gentlemen had resided at Timbuctoo, and in other parts of Sudan, + fifteen years, trading during the whole of that period with + Darbeyta, on the coast of the Red Sea, with Jinnie, Housa, Wangara, + Cashna, and other countries of the interior, from whom, and from + others, equally intelligent and credible, I procured my information + respecting the _mediterranean sea in the interior of Africa, called + El Bahar Assudan, i.e. the Sea of Sudan_, situated fifteen days' +437 journey east of Timbuctoo. These two muselmen merchants had amassed + considerable fortunes at Timbuctoo, and were on their journey to + Fas, their native place; but in consequence of a civil war at that + time raging throughout West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Haha, through which it was indispensable that they should pass, + on their way to Fas, they sojourned with me two months; after which + they departed for Fas with a caravan. + + These intelligent Moors gave me much information respecting + Timbuctoo, and the interior countries where they had resided; they + sold me many articles of Sudanic manufacture, among which were + three pieces of fine cotton cloth, manufactured at Timbuctoo, and + some ornaments of pure gold _in or molu_, of exquisite workmanship, + of the manufacture of Jinnie; one of these pieces of Timbuctoo + manufacture, of cotton interwoven with silk, of a square + blue-and-white pattern, dyed with _indigo of Timbuctoo_, I had the + honour to present to the British Museum, in April, 1796[239], where + it is now deposited. + + [Footnote 239: This piece of cloth, about two yards wide and + five long, I had the honour of offering to Sir Joseph Banks, + who declined receiving it; but at the same time suggested that + it was a manufacture deserving public notice, and would be + considered an acceptable present by the British Museum.] + + I have been led into this digression from certain insinuations that + have been[240] insidiously propagated, reflecting on the accuracy +438 of my statements respecting the interior of Africa; and I must add, + that I always have felt, and still feel confident, that in + proportion as we shall become more acquainted with the interior of + this unexplored continent, my account will be so much the more + authenticated: my confidence in this opinion, (however dogmatical + it may appear,) is founded on the original and intelligent sources + of my information; on a long residence and general acquaintance + with all the principal inhabitants of West Barbary, whose + connections lay in Sudan, and at Timbuctoo; in a competent + knowledge and practical acquaintance with the languages of North + Africa, and a consequent ability to discriminate the accuracy of + the sources of my intelligence. + + [Footnote 240: See my letter to the editor of the Monthly + Magazine, for March, 1817; page 125.] + + This being premised, I now proceed to offer to the public my + animadversions on the above quotation from the Journal of Science + and the Arts. + + I have actually crossed the Wed Sebu, or the River Sebu, alluded to + in the above quotation, which passes through the Berebber Kabyl of + Zimure Shelleh; I have crossed the same river several times at the + city of Mequinez, and also at Meheduma, where it enters the + Atlantic Ocean, in lat. 34 deg. 15' north, and from this experimental + knowledge of the course of that river, I can affirm, with + confidence, that it is not inaccurately laid down in my map of West + Barbary[241], and that it is not three hundred English miles from +439 Fas, but only six English miles from that city. I can also assert, + from incontestable testimony, that Tombut, or Timbuctoo, is[242] + not three hundred miles from the Nile El Abeed, but only about + twelve English miles from that stream, the latter being south of + the town. + + [Footnote 241: For which see page 55.] + + [Footnote 242: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 297.] + + Respecting the following passage in the above quoted Journal of + Science and the Arts, p. 272, "This river contains the fierce + animals called _Tzemsah_, which devour men," I shall only observe, + that _Tzemsah_ is the word in Arabic which denominates the + _crocodile_. Farther on, in the same page, we have the words,--"We + must suppose that the Joliba makes at this spot a strange winding, + which gives to the inhabitants of Marocco the opinion they + express." This supposed winding is actually asserted to exist, and + is denominated by the Arabs[243] _El Kose Nile_, i.e. the arch or + curve of the Nile, and is situated between the cities of Timbuctoo + and Jinnie. + + [Footnote 243: Idem, note, p. 305.] + + I should here adduce some further testimony respecting the course + of the Nile El Abeed; but as the quotation from Aly Bey in the + above Journal of Sciences and the Arts, page 271. asserts it to be + towards the east, and again, in page 272. declares it to be towards + the west, such incoherence, I presume, requires no confutation. I + consider that it originates from Moorish inaccuracy. +440 + The _La Mar Zarak_ of Adams, if any such river exists, may be a + corruption of _Sagea el Humra_, i.e. the Red Stream, a river in the + southern confines of Sahara, nearly in the same longitude with + Timbuctoo. This river the late Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid, + announced as the southern boundary of his dominions; but from the + accounts which I have had of it, it was not of that magnitude which + Adams ascribes to the Mar Zarak, nor was it precisely in the + neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, when I was a resident in South Barbary: + rivers, however, _which pass through sandy or desert districts_, + often change their courses in the space of twenty-four hours, by + the drifting of the moving sands impelled by the wind; instances of + which I have myself often witnessed. + + If this river proceeded from the Desert, it might have had the name + of _El Bahar Sahara_, i.e. the River of Sahara; the word _La Mar_ + is a lingua franca, or corrupt Spanish word, signifying the sea, + and might have been used to this poor sailor by a native to make it + the more intelligible to him. Many Spanish words having crept into + the Arabic vocabulary, and are occasionally used by those Africans + who have had intercourse with Europeans. + +441 The next passage for animadversion is as follows:-- + + "The state in which he represented Timbuctoo, and its being the + residence of a Negro sovereign, instead of a muselman." + + The state in which he has represented Timbuctoo, is, I think, + extremely inaccurate; and being a slave, it is more than probable, + that he was placed in a Fondaque[244], or Caravansera, belonging to + the King, which he _mistook_ for his palace; but that his narrative + should be deemed inaccurate, because he has described the town of + Timbuctoo to be under the sovereignty of a Negro prince, is to me + incomprehensible. + + [Footnote 244: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocoo, &c. + p. 298.] + + The various sources of information that I have investigated, + uniformly declare that sovereign to be a Negro, and that his name + in the year 1800, was Woolo. This account, it appears, is confirmed + by Adams, who says,[245] Woolo was King of Timbuctoo in 1810, and + that he was then old and grey-headed. Some years after the above + period, Riley's Narrative, epitomised in Leyden's Discoveries and + Travels in Africa, vol. i., _speaking of the King of Timbuctoo, + says, this sovereign is a very large, old, grey-headed black man_, + called _Shegar_, which means Sultan. This, however, I must observe + is a misinterpretation of the word _Shegar_, which is an + African-Arabic word, and signifies _red or carrotty_, and is a word + applicable to his physiognomy; but certainly not to his rank:--_Abd +442 Shegar_, a carrotty or red Negro. If these two testimonies, since + 1800, be correct, then the _anachronism_ of which I am accused in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, (title Africa,) + is misapplied. + + [Footnote 245: Since publishing this letter, Mr. Bowdich, in + his Account of Ashantee, pages 194, 195, says, Woolo was King + of Timbuctoo in 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bowdich was at + Ashantee.] + + Many of this king's civil officers, however, in 1800, were + muselmen; but the military were altogether Negroes. + + However fervent the zeal of Muhamedanism may be at Timbuctoo, it is + not, I imagine, sufficient to convert the Negroes, who have not the + best opinion of the Muhamedan tenets. The Negroes, however, are + disposed to abjure idolatry for any other form of religion that + they can be persuaded to think preferable, or that holds out a + better prospect; a convincing proof of which has been seen by the + readiness of the Africans of Congo and Angola, to renounce their + idolatry for the Christian faith, by the conversion of thousands to + that faith by the indefatigable zeal of the catholic missionaries, + when the Portuguese first discovered those countries, and which, if + the Sovereign of Portugal had persevered with that laudable zeal + with which he began to promote the conversion of the Africans, the + inhabitants of those extensive and populous countries might, at + this day, have been altogether members of the Christian church!! +443 + _On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, + or of Sudan_. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.[246] + + [Footnote 246: Inserted in March, 1817.] + + Sir, + + London, Jan. 25. 1817. + + Having read some annotations, in the Journal of a Mission to the + Interior of Africa, by Mungo Park, in 1805, which are calculated to + persuade some persons, that my Account of the Interior of Africa is + not altogether authentic, I feel myself called upon to offer some + cursory observations to the public, in refutation of those + aspersions. (Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Mungo Park's Second Journey, + in 1805, pages 114. and 115.) + + Although I assert, on the concurrent testimony of the best informed + and most intelligent natives of Sudan, that there exists a + [247]water communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, I do not + maintain that the [248]Nile of Sudan falls into the [249]Nile of + Egypt, but that it hath a communication with it, or with some river +444 that connects itself with the Nile of Egypt, which opinion is + confirmed by Mr. Hornemann, on African authority. + + [Footnote 247: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 310.] + + [Footnote 248: (_Nile el Kabeer_) the Great Nile, (_Bahar el + Abeed_, or _Nile el Abeed_) the Nile of Slaves or Negroes, + (_Nile Sudan_) the Nile of Sudan or Nigritia, are the various + names applied to the river that passes by Timbuctoo, and + through the interior of Sudan, from west to east.] + + [Footnote 249: _Nile Masser_ is the name applied to the Nile of + Egypt.] + + It is very probable that this junction is formed by a stream that + flows westward towards Wangara through the country called [250] + Bahar Kulla, and Lake Dwi, from the source of the Nile of Egypt, or + from that part of the Jibbel Kumri, or Lunar Mountains, which form + the southern boundary of Donga. + + If this be so, the junction of the Nile el Abeed, of Timbuctoo, and + the Bahar el Aheaed of Donga[251], (or more properly the Bahar el + Abeed,) is established, and the water communication between + Timbuctoo and Cairo is proved; admitting, however, that the Negroes + reported by me to have performed the[252] voyage by water, took + their boat or canoe ashore, to ascend the cataracts, in the country + between Wangara and Donga. + + [Footnote 250: _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic term, signifying the + sea altogether, implying an alluvial country, (probably forming + a part of the mediterranean sea of central Africa). See Major + Rennel's Map in the Proceedings of the African Association, + vol. i. 8vo. page 209. lat. N. 10 deg., long. 18 deg..] + + [Footnote 251: Vide Major Kennel's Map in the Proceedings of + the African Association, 8vo. edition, vol. i. page 209.] + + [Footnote 252: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 312.] + + Mr. Park's annotator, in the spirit of controversy with which he + appears to be endued, may say, the fact of this stream running to +445 the west towards Wangara, cannot be admitted, because Mr. Browne + saw a ridge of mountains extending in that direction; but Mr. + Browne did not ascertain that this was an uninterrupted ridge; the + river might therefore pass through some chasm similar to that which + I have seen in crossing the Atlas Mountains, or through some + intermediate plain. + + The annotator further says[253], "It is needless to comment upon + such hearsay statements, received from an African traveller." This + assertion being calculated to impress on the public mind, that I + founded my hypothesis respecting the junction of the Niles of + Africa on the simple and single statement of one individual African + traveller; I feel it incumbent on me thus publicly to declare, that + _the junction alluded to is founded on the universal and concurrent + testimony of all the most intelligent and well informed native + African travellers_ (for the most part natives of Sudan), not one + of whom differed in this opinion, but unanimously declared it to be + an uncontroverted fact, that the waters of the Nile of Egypt joined + the waters of the Nile el Abeed, which passes near Timbuctoo to the + east; and that there exists, without a doubt, a water communication + between Cairo in Egypt, and Timbuctoo in Sudan. Now, if, as M. de + Bailly observes, "_la verite se fait connaitre par le concours des +446 temoignages_," it must be admitted, by men of liberal sentiments, + that it is somewhat more than a hearsay statement; and what better + foundation can there possibly be for the truth of any geological + fact, than the concurrent testimony of the best-informed natives of + the country described? + + [Footnote 253: Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Park's Second Journey + page 115.] + + With respect to precision being unfavourable to authenticity[254], + I consider this a new dogma; and if I were disposed to confute it, + (but it carries with it its own confutation,) I should point out + many hearsay evidences, precisely recorded in my Account of + Marocco, which have been confirmed already by Ali Bey (El Abassy) + and many others; but "_non est hic locus_." + + J.G. JACKSON. + + [Footnote 254: Vide Appendix, No. II. to Park's Second Journey + page 103.] + + _Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of + Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of + Marocco, &c._ + + London, 16th Jan, 1818. + + It is a satisfaction to perceive (after a lapse of eight or nine + years since the publication of my account of Marocco and the + interior of Africa), that in proportion as we are becoming better + acquainted with the interior of that continent, my account becomes + more authenticated, notwithstanding the attempts that have been so +447 insidiously made to invalidate it. + + The various hypotheses, for the most part founded in theory, that + have within the last seven years, been adopted respecting the + course of the _Nile el Abeed_ (Niger), are beginning now to fall to + the ground, and the learned and judicious editor of the Supplement + to the New Encyclopedia Britannica, founding his opinions, as it + should seem, upon the facts that have been corroborated respecting + the interior of Africa, has actually adopted my opinion;[255] viz. + + That there is an union of waters between the Nile of Egypt, and + that of Sudan[256]; where the common receptacle is, I have not + ventured to declare, but it is probable that it may be in the Bahar + Kulla[257], in Wangara, or in the [258]Sea of Sudan; the opinion + that the junction is formed in the Sea of Sudan is supported by the + Shereef Imhammed, who saw the Nile at Cashna, and declared that it + was so rapid there from east to west, that vessels could not stem + it. + + [Footnote 255: See my letter to the Editor of the Monthly + Magazine, vol. xliii. March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 256: It is incorrect to say, that the word _Nile_ is + applied, in Africa, to any great river: the name, I can with + confidence declare, is never applied to any river in North + Africa, except the Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan; whoever + has propagated this opinion has mistaken the matter altogether. + See Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. page 540.] + + [Footnote 257: See Major Rennell's Map of North Africa, lat. + north 6 deg., long, west 18 deg., &c.] + + [Footnote 258: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 310.] + +448 Again: Parke's intelligence, in his second journey, demonstrates an + union of waters in the (Baseafeena[259]) Sea of Sudan; for he says, + the current was said to be sometimes one way, and sometimes + another; which I will take the liberty to interpret thus:-- + + That the current from the Eastern Nile, was westward into the Sea + of Sudan, and the current of the Western Nile was eastward into the + same sea of Sudan: thus the current would be sometimes one way, and + sometimes another, making the Sea of Sudan the common receptacle + for the Eastern as well as for the Western Nile. + + Ptolemy's Sea of Nigritia is undoubtedly the same with my Sea of + Sudan; _Lybia Palus_[260] being the Latin denomination, as _Bahar + Sudan_ is the Arabic for the interior lake called the Sea of Sudan; + but whether this sea of Sudan will ultimately prove to be + situated[261] as I have described it, fifteen journies[262] east of + Timbuctoo, or 450 English miles, or as Ptolemy has described it, or + in the intermediate distance between the two extremes, must be left + for future travellers to ascertain. + + [Footnote 259: Another name for the Sea of Sudan, as will + hereafter appear.] + + [Footnote 260: See Ptolemy's Map of North Africa.] + + [Footnote 261: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, page + 310.] + + [Footnote 262: Fifteen journies horse travelling, which are the + journies here alluded to, at thirty miles a-day, is 450 British + miles.] + + The enterprising and indefatigable, the patient and persevering + genius of Burkhardt, deriving incalculable advantages from a long +449 residence in the eastern regions of Africa, may probably decree him + to be the person to clear up this long-contested geographical + point, unless the fascination of Arabian manners, or some Utopia in + the interior regions of that continent, should wean him from the + desire to re-visit his native country. + + This intelligence of Park may be considered some corroboration of + what I have maintained respecting the union of waters between the + Eastern and Western Niles.[263] + + The following testimonies are some confirmation of my report + respecting decked vessels, &c. in the interior of Africa.[264] + + Dr. Stetzen, a German physician residing at Alexandria[265], says, + that he has received intelligence from a pilgrim, on his way to + Mecca, a native of _Ber Noh,_ or _Bernou_[266], that the river + within a mile of the city is as large as the Egyptian Nile, and + overflows its banks; _it is navigated by vessels of considerable + dimensions, carrying sails and oars._ + + [Footnote 263: See Monthly Magazine, March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 264: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + page 309.] + + [Footnote 265: For full particulars, see New Supp. to Ency. + Brit. article "Africa."] + + [Footnote 266: This Bernou, or according to the Arabic + orthography, _Ber Noh_, is asserted by the Arabs to be the + birth-place of the Patriarch Noah.] + + Mr. Barnes states, that the Niger discharges itself into a large + lake; that he has heard from the Black traders that there are white +450 inhabitants upon the borders of this lake; and has been told, by + people who have seen them, that they dress in the style of Barbary + Moors, and wear turbans, but do not speak Arabic. See Report of + Committee of Council.[267] + + [Footnote 267: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p, 309.] + + Park, in his second journey, was informed, that "one month's travel + south of Baedo, through the kingdom of Grotto, will bring the + traveller to the country of the Christians, who have their houses + on the banks of the _Ba Seafeena_[268], which they describe as + incomparably larger than the lake Dehebby (Dibbie)."--This is + another corroboration of the accuracy of my account of the interior + of Africa; but before I dismiss this subject, I should observe, + that from the general ignorance of the African Arabic, an important + circumstance respecting this _Ba Seafeena_, is not yet (it appears) + discovered. It is this:--the words _Ba Seafeena_, or, according to + the correct Arabic orthography, _Bahar Sefeena_, literally + translated into English, signifies the Sea of Ships, and is + evidently only another name for the Sea of Sudan, declaring it to + be a sea wherein ships are found! + + [Footnote 268: See New Supp. to Ency. Brit. article "Africa."] + + Here then are two topographical facts first asserted by me, among + the moderns, to exist in the heart of Africa, and since confirmed + by Ali Bey, Park, and Dr. Sietzen, or, as the enlightened editor of + the Supplement to the New Encyclopedia Britt. observes, + +451 "We have thus three independent testimonies[269] from opposite + quarters, meeting exactly in the same point; nor does there, as far + as we know, exist any evidence _at all respectable_ to the + contrary." + + [Footnote 269: The testimonies here alluded to are Hornman, + Park, and Jackson.] + + It now remains for me to declare (that as opinions have been + industriously propagated tending to discredit my account of + Marocco, and the interior of Africa,) that nothing has been set + down therein, until I had previously investigated the + qualifications of the narrators, their means of knowledge, and + whether the respective vocations of the several narrators made it + their interest to disguise or misrepresent the truth of their + communications; and, after ascertaining these important points, I + have generally had recourse to other testimonies, and have seldom + recorded any thing until confirmed by three or four _concurrent_ + evidences: on this _pyramidical basis_ is founded the intelligence + in my account of Marocco, and of the interior of Africa, annexed to + that account. + + This assertion is to be understood in respect to intelligence that + I could not ascertain by ocular demonstration. + + Finally, my description of the black heartheaded serpent, called +452 Bouska[270], has been doubted; but a late traveller[271] has + confirmed the accuracy of my account; even of this extraordinary + animal.--In Riley's Narrative of his Shipwreck on the +453 Coast of Sahara is given an account of an exhibition by two + _Isawie_[272], who do not appear to have been adepts in the art of +454 fascinating these serpents; for I have frequently seen them manage +455 and charm the _Bouska_ much more adroitly than those who exhibited + at Rabat before Riley, although its bite is more deadly, and its + strength considerably greater, than that of the _El Effah!_ + + [Footnote 270: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 109.] + + [Footnote 271: "I paid two dollars for a station, and I looked + into the room without interruption. It was about twenty feet + long, and fifteen broad, paved with tiles and plastered within. + The windows had also been secured by an additional grating made + of wire, in such a manner as to render it impossible for the + serpents to escape from the room: it had but one door, and that + had a hole cut through it six or eight inches square: this hole + was also secured by a grating. In the room stood two men, who + appeared to be Arabs, with long bushy hair and beards; and I + was told they were a particular race of men, that could charm + serpents. + + "A wooden box, about four feet long and two wide, was placed + near the door, with a string fastened to a slide at one end of + it; this string went through a hole in the door. The two + serpent-eaters were dressed in haiks only, and those very small + ones. After they had gone through their religious ceremonies + most devoutly, they appeared to take an eternal farewell of + each other: this done, one of them retired from the room, and + shut the door tight after him. The Arab within seemed to be in + dreadful distress. I could observe his heart throb, and his + bosom heave most violently: and he cried out very loudly, + "_Allah houakiber_", three times; which is, as I understood it, + _God have mercy on me_.[273] + + "The Arab was at the farthest end of the room: at that instant + the cage was opened, and a serpent crept out slowly; he was: + about four feet long, and eight inches in circumference; his + colours were the most beautiful in nature, being bright, and + variegated with a deep yellow, a purple, a cream colour, black + and brown, spotted, &c. As soon as he saw the Arab in the room, + his eyes, which were small and green, kindled as with fire; he + erected himself in a second, his head two feet high; and + darting on the defenseless Arab, seized him between the folds + of his haik, just above his right hipbone, hissing most + horribly; the Arab gave a horrid shriek, when another serpent + came out of the cage. This last was black, very shining, and + appeared to be seven or eight feet long, but not more than two + inches in diameter: as soon as he had cleared the cage, he cast + his _red fiery eyes_ on his intended victim, thrust out his + forked tongue, _threw himself into a coil, erected his head, + which was in the centre of the coil_, three feet from the + floor, and flattening out the skin above his head and eyes, in + the form, and nearly of the size of a human heart, and + springing like lightning on the Arab, struck its fangs into his + neck near the jugular vein, while his tail and body flew round + his neck and arms in two or three folds. The Arab set up the + most hideous and piteous yelling, foamed and frothed at the + mouth, grasping the folds of the serpent, which were round his + arms with his right hand, and seemed to be in the greatest + agony, striving to tear the reptile from around his neck, while + with his left he seized hold of it near its head, but could not + break its hold: by this time the other had turned itself around + his legs, and kept biting all around the other parts of his + body, making apparently deep incisions: the blood, issuing from + every wound (both in his neck and body,) streamed all over his + haik and skin. My blood was chilled in my veins with horror at + this sight, and it was with difficulty my legs would support my + frame. + + "Notwithstanding the Arab's greatest exertions to tear away the + serpents with his hands, they turned themselves still tighter, + stopped his breath, and he fell to the floor, where he + continued for a moment, as if in the most inconceivable agony, + rolling over, and covering every part of his body with his own + blood and froth, until he ceased to move, and appeared to have + expired. In his last struggle, he had wounded the black serpent + with his teeth, as it was striving, as it were, to force its + head into his mouth, which wound Footnote: seemed to increase + its rage. At this instant I heard the shrill sound of a + whistle, and looking towards the door saw the other Arab + applying a call to his mouth: the serpents listened to the + music, their fury seemed to forsake them by degrees, they + disengaged themselves leisurely from the apparently lifeless + carcase, and creeping towards the cage, they soon entered it, + and were immediately fastened in. + + "The door of the apartment was now opened, and he without ran + to assist his companion: he had a phial of blackish liquor in + one hand, and an iron chissel in the other: finding the teeth + of his companion set, he thrust in the chissel, forced them + open, and then poured a little of the liquor into his mouth; + and holding the lips together, applied his mouth to the dead + man's nose, and filled his lungs with air: he next anointed his + numerous wounds with a little of the same liquid, and yet no + sign of life, appeared. I thought he was dead in earnest; his + neck and veins were exceedingly swollen; when his comrade + taking up the lifeless trunk in his arms, brought it out into + the open air, and continued the operation of blowing for + several minutes before a sign of life appeared; at length he + gasped, and after a time recovered so far as to be able to + speak. The swellings in his neck, body, and legs gradually + subsided, as they continued washing the wounds with clear cold + water and a sponge, and applying the black liquor occasionally; + a clean haik was wrapped about him, but his strength seemed so + far exhausted that he could not support himself standing, so + his comrade laid him on the ground by a wall, where he sunk + into a sleep. This exhibition lasted for about a quarter of an + hour from the time the serpents were let loose until they were + called off, and it was more than an hour from that time before + he could speak. I thought I could discover that the poisonous + fangs had been pulled out of these formidable serpents' jaws, + and mentioned that circumstance to the showman, who said, that + they had indeed been extracted; and when I wished to know how + swellings on his neck and other parts could be assumed, he + assured me, that though their deadly fangs were out, yet that + the poisonous quality of their breath and spittle would cause + the death of those they attack; that after a bite from either + of these serpents, no man could exist longer than fifteen + minutes: and that there was no remedy for any but those _who + were endowed by the Almighty with power to charm, and to manage + them_; and that he and his associates were of that favoured + number! The Moors and Arabs call the thick and beautiful + serpent _El Effah_, and the long black and heartheaded one _El + Bouskah_. + + "I afterwards saw engravings of these two serpents in + _Jackson's Marocco_; which are very correct resemblances. They + are said to be very numerous on and about the south foot of the + Atlas mountains and border of the Desert, where these were + caught when young, and where they often attack both men and + beasts."--Vide _Riley's Shipwreck and Captivity in the Great + Desert_, p. 550.] + + [Footnote 272: Disciples of Seedy ben Isa, whose sanctuary is + at Fas, and who possess the art of fascinating serpents.] + + [Footnote 273: N.B. This is a misinterpretation of the Arabic + words here used, which, literally translated, signify, _God + alone, is great!_--J.G.J.] + + _Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE, INSERTED MAY, 1818.) + + Sir, + + Bennet's-hill, Feb. 1818. + + I should be much surprised to find that Jackson's account of what + he has heard is doubted, if I did not remember that Bruce's account +456 of what he had seen was disbelieved. Nothing human can appear to me + more deserving of implicit credit than the intelligence the former + of these writers gives respecting Timbuctoo. He has not seen it, it + is true. I have not seen Lisbon; but, if I had, and were to sit + down to write an account of it, some things would be necessary to + be described, with regard to which I should feel a degree of + uncertainty; and, having given an account of Lisbon, if I were to + visit it again, I should find others on which I had been mistaken. + But let me arrange in my own mind the information I want respecting + Lisbon; let me make enquiries of twenty intelligent persons who + have resided there; let me carefully compare their different + accounts, and who shall doubt the accuracy of the result? + + Mr. Jackson has had an opportunity of acquiring information + respecting Timbuctoo that no other European ever had, by having the + direction of commerce in a city frequented by Timbuctan merchants; + a city, the port of which is called, in Arabic, _Bab Sudan_, the + Gate of Sudan. Mr. Jackson was qualified to make use of this + advantage to an extent that no other European ever was, by a + practical, and even critical knowledge of the general language of + the country,--the African Arabic. To these Mr. Jackson added an + ardent spirit of research, an industry which neglected no + opportunity, a caution to compare, a judgment to discriminate, and +457 a firmness to decide. Who, that weighs these things, can doubt the + accuracy of his intelligence respecting Sudan? I even regard his + orthography as the standard of correctness, and am surprised that + any person should continue to write Timbuctoo instead of Timbuctoo, + or Fez instead of Fas. + + I am inclined to believe that Adams has been at Timbuctoo, though I + do not consider it as proved; but, supposing that he has, and that + I wished to become acquainted with that city, would I apply for + information to an illiterate slave, who was confined within narrow + precincts? Or would I rely upon the united testimony of twenty + persons of education, who had each a wider field of observation? + + I have read "Jackson's Account of Marocco" twice through, at + different periods, with great attention; and I do most heartily + join in the confidence expressed by the enlightened and judicious + author, that, in proportion as the interior of Africa shall be more + known, the truth of his account of it will be made evident. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Hints for the Civilisation of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce_. + + March 16, 1818. + + Algiers, and the territory belonging to it, is governed by despotic + Turks, the refuse of the Ottoman troops; who maintain their power +458 over the Moors and Arabs of the plains (who are the cultivators of + the country), and over the Berebbers (who are the aborigines of the + country), or inhabitants of the mountains of Atlas, which terminate + this sovereignty on the south, and divide Algiers from + Bled-al-Jereed. The first principle of this barbarous and + sanguinary government, according io an African adage, is to + "_Maintain the arm of power, by making streams qf blood flow, + without intermission, around the throne!_" This country,--the + government of which reflects disgrace on Christendom, which has + been, during many ages the scourge of Christian mariners, and of + all who navigate the Mediterranean Sea,--has often been conquered. + The Romans reduced Numidia and Mauritania into Roman provinces. + This beautiful garden of the world was afterwards conquered by the + Vandals; then by the Greeks, during the reign of Justinian, under + Belisarius; and, finally, three times by the Arabs, viz. in the + 647th year of Christ, by Abdallah and Zobeer; in the year 667, by + Ak'bah for the Kalif Moawiah; and in the year 692, by Hassan, the + governor of Egypt, for the Kalif Abd Elmelik. Not one of the armies + of these warriors ever exceeded 50,000 men. + + After these general conquests, the partial conquests of the + Portuguese and Spaniards, about the end of the fifteenth and + beginning of the sixteenth century, were effected by a mere handful + of men; and, in 1509, the latter rendered the kingdom of Algiers + tributary to them: but, afterwards, they lost it by the ferocity of +459 their chiefs, and by the fanaticism of their soldiers and priests; + and, finally, by their perfidy and intolerance, they made + themselves enemies to the various (_Kabyles_) tribes of Mauritania, + and thereby lost their conquest. + + The repeated insults, offered by these ruffians to civilised + Europe, cannot be efficiently punished by a bombardment; a measure + which punishes many innocent subjects for the insults offered by + their government. No one acquainted with the character of the + natives of Barbary will maintain, that the destruction of a few + thousands of the peaceable inhabitants, or the burning of many + houses, is a national calamity in the eyes of a Muselman chief; who + would himself commit the same ravage and destruction that was so + gallantly effected by the British fleet, under Lord Exmouth, for + half the money it cost to accomplish it. + + When Lord St. Vincent was off Cadiz with the British fleet, and + could not obtain the object which he sought of the Emperor of + Marocco; his Lordship, after refusing to comply with the Emperor's + request, communicated to his Lordship by the Emperor's envoy, or + agent, Rais Ben Embark, told the Rais to inform his Emperor, that, + if he did not change his conduct very soon, he would begin a war + with him, and such a war as he had neither seen nor read of before. + When the Rais reported this to the Emperor Soliman, he enquired + what kind of war an admiral could wage against him; some one of the +460 divan observed, that he would destroy the ports on the coast; + adding, that it would cost a certain large sum of money to effect + that destruction. Upon which the Emperor exclaimed, that, for half + that amount, he would himself destroy all these ports.--This affair + happened in September, 1798. + + There is a prophecy in Barbary, that, from time immemorial, has + been generally credited by the inhabitants. It has been transmitted + to them by some fakeer, that the land of the Muselmen will be + wrested from them by the Christians; and there is an impression, + that the period when this event will take place is not far distant. + They also believe that this event will happen on a Friday (the + Muselman Sabbath), whilst they are occupied at their devotions at + the _Dohor_, service of prayer. Accordingly, at this period,--viz. + from twelve till half-past one o'clock,--the gates of all the + town's on the coast are shut and bolted every Friday. This attack, + forsooth, is to happen whilst they are occupied at prayer, because + they are so infatuated with an opinion of their own valour, that + they will not believe that Christians would presume to attack them + openly, when armed and prepared for the combat. It should seem that + these people begin now seriously to anticipate the near approach of + this predestined conquest, and have accordingly entered into a kind + of holy alliance, offensive and defensive: to which, it is said, + the Emperor of Marocco, and the Deys of Tunis and Tripoli, have + acceded; and that this holy alliance is crowned by the Ottoman + Emperor. +461 + It is more than probable, that the Dey of Algiers, goaded by the + blow inflicted by Lord Exmouth,--which has increased his hatred to + Christians, and has inflamed his desire of revenge,--will not fail + to seek every opportunity (according to the known principles of + Muhamedanism), of retaliating and insulting the Europeans, whenever + a favourable opportunity may offer, even at the risk of another + bombardment. This opinion has been confirmed by his late conduct; + and by the activity that has been manifested in the fortifications, + in increasing their military force, in building and equipping new + vessels, to infest the Mediterranean with their abominable + piracies; all which proceedings demonstrate the hostile intentions + of the Dey beyond all doubt. + + * * * * * + + _Plan for the Conquest of Algiers._ + + The inhabitants of the plains are bigoted to the Muhamedan tenets; + but they would readily exchange the iron rod that rules them for a + more mild and beneficial form of government. A well-disciplined + European army of 50,000 men, would assuredly effect their complete + conquest without much difficulty: such an army, directed by a + Wellington, would perform wonders, and astound the Africans. After + the conquest, an energetic, decisive, but beneficent form of + government, would be necessary, to retain the country, and to +462 conquer and annihilate the repugnancy which these people entertain + to our religious tenets. A system of rule formed on the principles + of the English constitution,--directed by good policy, benevolence, + and religious toleration,--would not fail to reconcile these + hostile tribes, and attach them to rational government. The + Berebbers would readily assimilate to such a government; and, + although by nature a treacherous race, they would rejoice to see + the country in possession of a government which, they would + perceive, strove to promote the welfare and prosperity of the + mountaineers, as well as the inhabitants of the plains; and their + own interest would thus gradually subdue the antipathy resulting + from religious prejudices. + + A general knowledge of the African Arabic would be essentially + necessary; and I think a school might be established in England, on + the Madras system, for initiating youths (going out to Africa) in + the rudiments of that language. This would be attended with most + important advantages; and might be accomplished in a very short + time. The conquest of Algiers being thus effected, that of the + neighbouring states would follow, without difficulty, by a + disciplined army of European troops; keeping the principle ever in + view, of conciliating the natives, without swerving from an + energetic and decisive mode of government. + + The advantages that would necessarily result from a successful + attack upon Africa, would be-- +463 + 1. An incalculable demand for spices, and East India manufactures + of silk and cotton. + + 2. A similar demand for coffees, and for sugars, manufactured and + unmanufactured; as well as for other articles of West India + produce. + + 3. An incalculable demand for all our various articles of + manufacture. + + On the other hand, we should obtain from this fine country,-- + + 1. An immense supply of the finest wheat, and other grain, that the + world produces. + + 2. We should be able to open a direct communication with the + interior regions of Africa,--which have baffled the enterprise of + ancient and modern Europe: the fertile and populous districts which + lie contiguous to the Nile of Sudan, throughout the whole of the + interior of Africa, would become, in a few years, as closely + connected to us, by a mutual exchange of benefits, as our own + colonies; and such a stimulus would be imparted to British + enterprise and industry, as would secure to us such stores of gold + as would equal the riches of Solomon, and immortalize the prince + who should cherish this great commerce to its maturity. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +464 + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + Liverpool, + Dec. 17. 1818. + Sir, + + In "_The Portfolio_," a Monthly Miscellany for May, 1817, published + at Philadelphia, there is rather an interesting review of Ali Bey's + travels. The writer says, "Ali Bey has rectified various errors in + the common maps of Marocco. The river Luccos, for instance, flows + to the South, and not to the North of Alcasser; and the city of + Fas, according to Ali Bey, is situated in 34 deg. 6' north latitude, + and not as laid down in the Maps of Arrowsmith, Rennell, Delille, + Golberri, &c."--If, however, he had given himself the trouble to + consult the map of West Barbary, in Jackson's Account of Marocco, + &c. &c. (which is by far the most accurate extant, and whose + geographical orthography has been adopted in all the best modern + English maps,) he would have seen that Fas is in 34 deg. north + latitude; that the river Elkos, or Luccos, is described in that + map, (which was published several years before Ali Bey's travels,) + as running south of Alcasser. + + In describing the funeral cry at Marocco, the editor, or reviewer, + impresses his reader with an idea that this funeral cry is that of + the Moors, whereas it is no such thing: it is the practice of the + Jews only in West Barbary to cry "Ah! Ah!" and lacerate their faces +465 with their finger nails; after which they wash, drink brandy, and + enjoy themselves. + + The large sea in the interior of Africa, described by Ali Bey to be + without any communication with the Ocean, had been described + (_years before Ali Bey's travels were published_) by Jackson, in + his Account of Marocco, &c. &c. third edition, p. 309, and called + first by him _Bahar Sudan_, and represented as a sea having decked + vessels on it. Mr. Park, in his Second Journey, calls this sea the + Bahar Seafina, without, however, informing the public, or knowing, + that the Bahar Sefeena is an Arabic expression implying a sea of + ships, or a sea where ships are found; and the situation he places + it in coincides exactly with Jackson's prior description. There are + thus three concurrent testimonies of the situation of the Bahar + Sudan, or Sea of Sudan, _first noticed by Jackson_, and since + confirmed by Ali Bey and Park.[274] + + EL HAGE HAMED EL WANGARY. + + [Footnote 274: There is an able discussion of this subject in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, article + "Africa," p. 104, and 105.] + + _On the Negroes_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + Eton, 5th Dec. 1818. + + Many maintain that the Negroes are a docile and tractable race, and + more easily to be governed than Europeans; others maintain, that +466 they are liars, thieves, vindictive, and a demoralised race. That + they are vindictive, no one who is acquainted with their character + will deny; but are not most barbarous and uncivilised nations the + same? What are the Muhamedans and Pagans? The latter, who form + nearly two-thirds of the population of the earth, are generally of + the same character, and the vindictive character of the former is + notorious. + + Propagate among the Negroes the benign principles of the Christian + doctrine, and they will gradually (as those principles are + inculcated) become good subjects, and useful members of society. It + is that religion which will bring forth their latent and social + virtues--a religion, the moral principles of which are the + admiration even of its enemies, the Muhamedans themselves: a + religion which exalts the human character above the brutes, and + brings forth its beauties as the brilliancy of the diamond is + brought forth by the hand of the polisher. + + Destroy their witchcraft and idolatry, and on their ruins inculcate + the divine doctrines of Christ, and we shall soon see that they + will possess sentiments that exalt the human character, and that + nothing has contributed more to their mental degradation than the + cruel treatment of their masters in the European colonies of the + West. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +467 + + _Cursory Observations on Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal + of a Route across India, through Egypt, to England_. + + Eton, 7th May, 1819. + + It is remarkable, that in proportion as our mass of information + respecting the interior of Africa increases, the truth of Mr. James + Grey Jackson's account of that country, in the appendix to his + account of Marocco, &c. receives additional confirmation. Some + literary sceptics have been so far prejudiced against this author's + report as to doubt its veracity altogether; but let us see how far + the interesting report of Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence, in his + journal of a route across India, through Egypt, to England, lately + published, corroborates Mr. Jackson's description of Timbuctoo, + published so long since as 1809. + + It is to be lamented, that Jackson's African orthography is not + altogether adopted: with the superior and practical knowledge which + he evidently possesses of the African Arabic language, it cannot, I + presume, be doubted by the learned and impartial, that his + orthography is correct; and, judging from what has already + transpired, I do not hesitate to predict, that his African + orthography, from an evidence of its accuracy, will, in a few + years, be adopted throughout; although the learned world have been + ten years in correcting _Tombuctoo_ into _Timbuctoo_; the latter +468 being Mr. Jackson's orthography in his account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. published in 1809. + + The late account of Mr. Bowdich's mission to Ashantee has been the + first to corroborate this author in this respect; and + Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence has confirmed it with this additional + observation, in his Journal of a Route, &c. page 493: "Upon + enquiring about _Timbuctoo_ the Hage laughed at our pronunciation, + the name of the city being _Timbuctoo_." The next improvement in + African geographical orthography, will probably be the conversion + of Fez into _Fas_ (for there is absolutely no more reason for + calling it Fez than there has been for calling Timbuctoo, + Timbuctoo), this word being spelled in Arabic with the letters _Fa, + Alif_, and _Sin_, which cannot be converted into any other + orthography but _Fas_; the same argument would hold with various + other words spelled correctly by this author, an accurate + elucidation of which might encroach too much upon your valuable + pages. I shall therefore briefly state, that in page 480 of Colonel + Fitzclarence's Journal, the name of the Moorish gentleman to whose + care the sons of the Emperor of Marocco, Muley Soliman, were + confided, is stated to be El Hadge Talib ben Jelow: this is + incorrect orthography, there is no such name in the Arabic language + as _Jelow_, it is a barbarism; ben Jelow signifies ben Jelule, and + the proper name is _El Hage Taleb ben Jelule_. + +469 Behur Soldan is evidently another barbarism or corruption of the + Arabic words _Bahar Sudan: vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 309, published by Cadell and Davies. + + It has been observed by an intelligent French writer, that "_Le + pluspart des hommes mesurant leur foi par leur connoissance acquise + croyent A fort peu de choses_." In confirmation of this opinion, + many intelligent men, at the time of the publication of Jackson's + Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c. doubted the existence of the + _Heirie_, as described by him; but in proportion as our knowledge + of Africa improves, we see that the truth of these wonders is + confirmed: and Colonel Fitzclarence mentions one that travelled + four days in one; but we should not be surprised to hear, before + this century shall terminate, that an Englishman had travelled from + Fas to Timbuctoo on a Heirie, accompanied by an accredited agent of + the Emperor of Marocco, in ten or fifteen days! + + It appears by this ingenious traveller's Journal of a Route, &c. + page 493, that all religions are tolerated at Timbuctoo. This is a + confirmation of what is reported by Jackson, in the Appendix + annexed to his Account of Marocco, &c. page 300. + + The fish in the river of Timbuctoo, the Neel El Abeed or Neel of + Sudan, is described by Colonel Fitzclarence as resembling salmon: +470 this is a corroboration of Jackson, who says, the _shebbel_ abound + in the Neel of Sudan, and the shebbel is the African salmon. See + appendix to Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. page 306. + + In page 494, Colonel Fitzclarence says, the Nile at Kabra is a + quarter of a mile wide; Jackson says it is as wide as the Thames at + London. See Appendix to Jackson's Marocco, &c. page 305. + + In page 496 of the Colonel's narrative, an account is given of the + rate of travelling through the Desert; which, allowing for an + arbitrary difference, in the resting days, corroborates Jackson's + Account, page 286. + + In page 497, El hage Taleb ben Jelule's report to the Colonel, of + an account of two white men, (undoubtedly Mungo Park and another,) + who were at Timbuctoo in 1806, is a remarkable confirmation of the + account brought by Mr. Jackson from Mogodor in January, 1807, and + reported by him to the Marquis of Hastings, to Sir Joseph Banks, + and to Sir Charles Morgan, which is inserted in the Morning Post + and other papers, about the middle of August, 1814. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. +471 + + _On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Turkey in Europe, in + Asia, and in Africa_. + + London, May 10, 1819. + + In this enlightened age, when our intercourse is increasing with + nations remote from our own, and possessing different religions, + languages, laws, and customs; when the ambassadors of the Muhamedan + potentates of Europe, Asia, and Africa, are resident in our + metropolis, all understanding _the Arabic language_; when, with a + knowledge of this language, a person may travel and hold colloquial + intercourse with the inhabitants of Turkey, with the greater part + of Asia, and with Africa; and, lastly, when we consider the + valuable and immense stores of Arabian literature, of the best + periods which still remain unexplored, is it not remarkable under + all the exciting circumstances above enumerated, that in this + powerful and opulent country, there should not be found, with all + our boasted learning and eagerness of research, three or four + Englishmen capable of writing and conversing intelligibly in that + beautiful and useful language? The extent of this disgraceful + ignorance would be scarcely credible, were there not proofs beyond + doubt, that our principal seats of learning are as deficient in +472 this knowledge as the public in general[275], and that letters or + public documents written in that language, have been in vain sent + to them for translation. What I have long considered as chiefly + tending to diminish the desire of acquiring this language, is an + opinion dogmatically asserted, and diligently propagated, that the + Arabic of the East and West are so different from each other, as + almost to form distinct languages, and to be unintelligible to the + inhabitants of either of those regions respectively; but, having + always doubted the truth of this assertion, I have endeavoured, + from time to time, _during the last ten years_, to ascertain + whether the Arabic language spoken in Asia be the same with that + which is spoken in Africa, (westward to the shores of the Atlantic + ocean,) but without success, and even without the smallest +473 satisfactory elucidation, until the arrival in London last winter, + of the most _Reverend Doctor Giarve, Bishop of Jerusalem_, who has + given such incontestible proofs of his proficiency in the Arabic + language, that his opinion on this important point cannot but be + decisive; accordingly, on presenting to the reverend Doctor some + letters from the Emperor of Marocco to me, desiring that he would + oblige me with his opinion, whether the Arabic in those letters was + the same with that spoken in Syria, the Rev. Doctor replied in the + following perspicuous manner, which, I think, decides the question: + _"I can assure you, that the language and the idiom of the Arabic + in these letters from the Emperor of Marocco to you, is precisely + the same with that which is spoken in the East."_ + + [Footnote 275: See page 408. respecting a letter sent to our + late revered Sovereign, by the Emperor of Marocco. In + consequence of the inattention to that letter, the Emperor + determined never to write again to a Christian king in the + Arabic language; and, with regard to Great Britain, I believe + he has faithfully ever since kept his word! Some time before + this letter was written, I being then in Marocco, the Emperor's + minister asked me if the Emperor his master were to write an + Arabic letter to the _Sultan George Sultan El Ingleez_, (these + were his expressions,) whether there were persons capable of + translating it into English: I replied, that there were men at + the Universities capable of translating every learned language + in the known world; and accordingly the letter above alluded to + was written in Arabic, and addressed to His Majesty. This + letter was written by the Emperor himself, which I am competent + to declare, having letters from him in my possession, and being + acquainted with his hand-writing and style.] + + It is, therefore, thus ascertained, that the Arabic language spoken + in the kingdom of Tafilelt, of Fas, of Marocco, and in Suse or + South Barbary, is precisely the same language with that which is + now spoken in Syria, and Palestine in Asia; countries distant from + each other nearly 3000 miles, and from information since obtained, + there appears to be no doubt that the Arabic language spoken by the + Arabs in Arabia, by the Moors and Arabs in India and Madagascar, by + the Moorish nations on the African shores of the Mediterranean, are + one and the same language with that spoken in Marocco, subject only + to certain provincial peculiarities, which by no means form +474 impediments to the general understanding of the language, no more, + or not so much so, as the provincial peculiarities of one county of + England differ from another!! + + Unwilling to encroach too much on your valuable pages, I will + leave, for the subject of my next letter, the inconceivable + misconstructions and errors into which the ignorance of this + language has led European travellers in Africa, of which I shall + state some examples in a recent publication respecting Africa. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient Servant, + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + + _Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an + Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. + showing the Errors that have been committed by European Travellers + on that Continent, from their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the + learned and the general travelling Language of that interesting + part of the World_. + + June 17, 1819. + + The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibber, was invariably described + as dividing in two large streams.--_Vide_ "Bowdich's Account of a + Mission to Ashantee," p. 187. + + The Lake Dibber is called in the proceedings of the African + Association Dibbie, but the proper appellation is _El Bahar Tibber, + _or_ El Bahar Dehebbie_. The Bahar Tibber signifies the sea of gold +475 dust; the _Bahar Dehebbie_ signifies the sea or water abounding in + gold. Jinnee, which is on or near the shore of this lake, (I call + it a lake because it is fresh water,) abounds in gold, and is + renowned throughout Africa for the ingenuity of its artificers in + that metal, insomuch that they acknowledge the superiority of + Europeans in all arts except that of gold work. There are some + specimens of Jinnee gold trinkets, very correctly delineated in the + recent interesting work of "Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's + Journal of a Route across India, through Egypt to England," p. 496. + + Page 187, "Yahoodie, a place of great trade." + + This place is reported to be inhabited by one of the lost tribes of + Israel, possibly an emigration from the tribe of Judah. Yahooda, in + African Arabic, signifies Judah. Yahoodee signifies Jew. It is not + impossible, that many of the lost tribes of Israel may be found + dispersed in the interior regions of Africa, when we shall become + better acquainted with that Continent; it is certain, that some of + the nations that possessed the country eastward of Palestine when + the Israelites were a favoured nation, have emigrated to Africa. + + An emigration of the Amorites[276] are now in possession of the + declivity of the Atlas Mountains, westward of the sanctuary[277] of + Muley Driss, and in the neighbourhood of the ruins of Pharaoh; they +476 live in encampments, consisting of two, three, or four tents each: + they resemble the Arabs of the Desert in their predatory + excursions. I speak from practical knowledge, having twice + travelled through their country, and visited their encampments. + + [Footnote 276: They are called _Ite-amor_, Amorite.] + + [Footnote 277: _Vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, chap. viii. + enlarged edition.] + + Page 189. "Mr. Beaufoy's Moor says, that below Ghinea is the sea + into which the river of Timbuctoo discharges itself." + + This might have been understood to signify the Sea of Sudan, if the + Moor had not said below Ghinea, (by which is meant Genowa, or as we + call it Guinea,) which implies, that the _Neel El Abeed_ (Niger) + discharges itself in the sea that washes the coast of Guinea; this, + therefore, corroborates Seedi Hamed's, or rather Richard's + hypothesis. + + Page 190. "This branch of the Niger passing Timbuctoo, is not + crossed until the third day going from Timbuctoo to Houssa." + + This quotation from "Dapper's Description of Africa," is + corroborated by L'Hage Abdsalam, Shabeeni, whose narrative says, + "Shabeeni, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Houssa, and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached + the Neel in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, and + cultivated country." + + The confusion of rivers, made mere equivocal by every new + hypothesis, receives here additional ambiguity. If there were (as + Mr. Bowdich affirms) three distinct rivers near Timbuctoo; viz. the +477 Joliba, the Gambarro, and the Niger, (_i. e_. the _Neel El Abeed_) + how comes it that they have not been noticed by Leo Africanus, who + resided at Timbuctoo; by Edrissi, who is the most correct of the + Arabian geographers; or whence is it, that these rivers have not + been noticed by the many Moorish travelling merchants who have + resided at Timbuctoo, and whom I have repeatedly questioned + respecting this matter[278], or whence is it that Alkaid L'Hassen + Ramy, a renowned chief of the Emperor of Marocco's army, with whom + I was well acquainted, and who was a native of Houssa, knew of no + such variously inclined streams. This being premised, I am + certainly not disposed to relinquish the opinion I brought with me + from Africa in the year 1807, viz. that the _Neel El Abeed_ is the + only mighty river that runs through Africa from west to east; but I + admit that its adjuncts, as well as itself, have different names; + thus, in the manuscript of Mr. Park's death, a copy of which is + inserted in "Mr. Bowdich's Account of Ashantee," it is called Kude; + many hundred miles eastward it is called Kulla, from the country +478 through which it passes; but Kude and Kulla are different names, + and ought not to be confounded one with the other; neither ought + Quolla (_i. e._, the Negro pronunciation of Kulla) to be confounded + with Kude, the former being the Negro term for the same river, in + the same manner as Niger is the Roman name for the _Neel Elabeed_, + which is the Arabic name for the same river. There is a stream + which proceeds from the Sahara, the water of which is _brackish_; + this stream hardly can be called a river, except in the rainy + season. It passes in a south-westerly direction near Timbuctoo, but + does not join the _Neel Elabeed_. I could mention several + intelligent and credible authorities, the report of respectable + merchants, who have resided, and, who have had establishments at + Timbuctoo, in confirmation of this fact; but as the authorities + which I should adduce would be unknown, even by name, to men of + science in Europe, I would refer the reader to the interesting + narrative of an intelligent Moorish merchant, who resided three + years at Timbuctoo, and who was known to the committee of the + African Association; this travelling merchant's name is L'Hage + Abdsalam Shabeeny, and his narrative, a manuscript of which (with + critical and explanatory notes by myself) I have in my possession, + has the following observation:[279]--"Close to the town of + Timbuctoo, on the south, is a small rivulet in which the +479 inhabitants wash their clothes, and which is about two feet deep; + it runs into the great forest on the east, and does not communicate + with the Nile, but is lost in the sands west of the town: its water + is brackish; that of the Nile is good and pleasant." + + [Footnote 278: The Arabs who conduct the _cafelahs_ or caravans + across the Sahara, are often seen at Agadeer or Santa Cruz, and + sometimes even at Mogodor; and if there was a river penetrating + to the north through the Sahara, would it not have been noticed + by them? Is it possible that such a prominent feature of + African geography, as a river of sweet water passing through a + desert, could fail of being noticed by these people, who are, + in their passage through the Desert, continually in search of + water?] + + [Footnote 279: See page 8.] + + Page 199. Mr. Murray recently observes, "Joliba seems readily + convertible into Joli-ba, the latter syllable being merely an + adjunct, signifying river; this I was also given to understand." + + This is an etymological error. The Joliba is not a compound word, + if it were it would be Bahar Joli, not Bajoli, or Joliba; thus do + learned men, through a rage for criticism, and for want of a due + knowledge of African languages, render confused, by fancied + etymologies, that which is sufficiently clear and perspicuous. + + Page 191. "The river of Darkulla mentioned by Mr. Brown." + + This is evidently an error: there is probably no such place or + country as Darkulla. There is, however, an alluvial country + denominated _Bahar Kulla_, (for which see the map of Africa in the + Supplement of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, p. 88. lat. N. 8 deg., + long. E. 20 deg.). I apprehend this Darkulla, when the nations of + Europe shall be better acquainted with Africa and its languages, + will be discovered to be a corruption of _Bahar Kulla_, or an + unintelligible and ungrammatical term: _Deaar Kulla_ is + grammatical, and implies a country covered with houses! _Dar Kulla_ +480 is an ungrammatical and an incorrect term, which being literally + translated into English, signifies _many house_. This being + premised, we may reasonably suppose, that _Bahar Kulla_ is the + proper term which, as I have always understood, forms the junction + of the Nile of the west with the Nile of the east, and hence + forming a continuity[280] of waters from Timbuctoo to Cairo. + + [Footnote 280: See my letter in the Monthly Magazine for March, + 1817, page 128.] + + 191. In this geographical dissertation the word Niger is still + used, which is a name altogether unknown in Africa, and calculated + to contuse the geographical enquirer. As this word is + unintelligible to the natives of Africa, whether they be Arabs, + Moors, Berebbers, Shelluhs, or Negroes, ought it not to be expunged + from the maps? + + P. 192. In the note in this page, "Jackson's Report of the source + of the _Neel el Abeed_, and the Source of the Senegal," is + confirmed by the Jinnee Moor.--See Jackson's Appendix to his + Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, p. 311. + + "It is said, that thirty days from Timbuctoo they eat their + prisoners!" Does not this allude to Banbugr[281], and has not this +491 word been corrupted by Europeans into Bambarra. See Mr. Bowdich's + MS. No. 3, p. 486; Banbugr, who eat the flesh of men. Jackson's + translation. + + [Footnote 281: The Gr in Banbugr, is the Arabic letter, grain. + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, renders this letter gh; + which demonstrates, that his knowledge of the Arabic was only + scholastic, not practical. It has no resemblance or affinity to + gh, and would be unintelligible if so pronounced to an Arab.] + + Page 193. The government of Jinnee appears to be Moorish; because + _Malai Smaera_, which should be written _Mulai Smaera_, signifies + in the Arabic language, the _Prince Smaera_: the term does not + belong to Negroes, but exclusively to Muhamedans. _Malai Bacharoo_ + is a Negro corruption of the word; it should be _Mulai_, or _Muley + Bukaree_; i.e. the _Abeed Mulai Bukaree_, or _Abeed Seedi Bukaree_. + They are well known among the Negroes of Sudan; the Negroes of this + race form the present body-guard of the Emperor of Maroceo's + troops, consisting of 5000 horse. They are dexterous in the + management of the horse, are well-disciplined troops, and are the + only military in the Emperor's army that can cope with the + Berebbers of the Atlas. + + Note, p. 194. Dapper's description of Africa is here quoted in + confirmation of the decay of Timbuctoo; and Jackson is accused of + extravagance. The latter I shall pass over, it being an assertion + unsupported by any substantial testimony; but immediately + afterwards is the following passage. + + "The three last kings before Billa (_i.e. Billabahada_) were + Osamana, (_i.e._ Osaman; Osamana being the feminine gender,) + Dawoloo, and Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woolo + reigning in 1800; and a Moor who had come from Timbuctoo to + Comassee ten years ago (viz. about 1807, or ten years before Mr. +482 Bowdich visited Ashantee), did not know King Woolo was dead, as he + was reigning at the time he left Timbuctoo." + + With regard to Dapper's assertion, it should be remembered, that if + Timbuctoo was decaying in his time, that is about the period that + Muley Ismael ascended the throne of Marocco, viz. in 1672; it + revived very soon after, that is before the close of the 17th + century. This powerful and warlike prince had the address to + establish and to maintain a very strong garrison at Timbuctoo; and + accordingly, during his long reign of fifty-five years, viz. from + 1672 to 1727, Timbuctoo carried on a constant, extensive, and + lucrative trade with Marocco, Tafilelt, and Fas, in gold dust, + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, ivory, and slaves, &c. + _Akkabahs_[282], and _cafilahs_, or caravans, were going + continually from Timbuctoo to Tafilelt, Marocco, Fas, and Terodant. + Travelling across the Desert was then as safe as it is now in the + plains of Marocco, or on the roads in England; the only months + during which the caravans did not travel were July and August, + because the _Shume_, or hot wind of the Desert, prevails during + these two months. It is reported, that Muley Ismael was so rich in + gold, that the bolts of the gates of his palaces, and his kitchen + utensils, were of pure gold. Timbuctoo continued to carry on a most +483 lucrative trade with Marocco, &c.; during the Feign of the Emperor + Muley Abd Allah, son and successor of Ismael, and also during the + reign of Seedy[283] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, who died about the year + 1795, a sovereign universally regretted, and hence aptly + denominated the father of his people: since the decease of + Seedy[284] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, the father of the reigning + emperor, Muley Soliman, the trade of Sudan has rapidly decreased, + because the policy of the present emperor is, to discourage + commerce, but to encourage the agriculture and the manufactures of + his own country, so as to make them sufficient for itself, and + independent of foreign supplies! + + [Footnote 282: An Akkabah is an accumulation of many _cafilahs_ + or caravans.] + + [Footnote 283: It should be observed, that an emperor having + the name of the Arabian prophet, is called Seedy; but having + any other name, he is called Muley; the former signifies + master, the latter, prince.] + + [Footnote 284: If therefore the trade with Timbuctoo declined + in Leo's time, _i.e._ A.D. 1570, it unquestionably revived in + Ismael's reign, and also continued with but little diminution + during the reign of his son Abd Allah, and his grandson + Muhamed.] + + Da Woolo is a reverential term, and is synonymous with Woolo, + signifying King Woolo. + +484 Park says, Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805, + implying that he reigned from 1796 to 1805. The Moor before + mentioned, who came from Timbuctoo to Comassie in 1807, told Mr. + Bowdich, that Woolo was then reigning at Timbuctoo. Isaaco says, + Woolo was predecessor to Mansong; consequently, according to this + Jew, Woolo was king before the year 1796; therefore, if Mr. Park's + testimony be correct, Woolo must have been predecessor and + successor to Mansong; otherwise, Mr. Park was incorrect in saying + that Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805. Adams + says, Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in 1810, and was old and + grey-headed. Riley's narrative also confirms his age and grey + hairs. With regard to my testimony, viz. that Woolo was king[285] + of Timbuctoo in 1800, I had it from two merchants of veracity, who + returned from Timbuctoo in 1800, after residing there 14 years: + they are both alive now, and reside at Fas; their names I would + mention, were I not apprehensive that it might lead to a reprimand + from the emperor, and create jealousy for having communicated + intelligence respecting the interior of the country. I should not + have entered into this detail _in confirmation of my assertion that + Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in_ 1800, if the editor of the + Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica (article Africa), had not + asserted, that I have committed an anachronism in asserting, that + he was king in that year; thereby insinuating that Park was right, + and that I was wrong. + + [Footnote 285: See my Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the + Anti-Jacobin Review for January, 1818, p. 453.] + +485 Page 195. The Editor of Adams's Narrative is, I apprehend, + incorrect in asserting, that the name Fatima affords no proof that + the queen, or the wife of Woolo, was a Muhamedan. Fatima is + incontestably an Arabian proper name; and it would be considered + presumption in a Negress unconverted to Muselmism, to assume the + name of Fatima. She must, therefore, have been necessarily a + Mooress, or a converted Negress; the name has nothing to do with a + numeral, as Mr. Bowdich suggests, and above all not with the + _numeral five_, for that is a number ominous of evil in Africa, and + as such, would never have been bestowed as a name on a beloved + wife. + + Page 196. Note of W. Hutchison, "The four greatest monarchs known + on the banks of the Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisimiel, + and Malla, or Mallowa." + + Baharnoo should be written _Ber Noh_; i.e. the country of Noah the + patriarch; it is called in the maps Bernoo, and the whole passage + is calculated greatly to confuse African geography. The information + is unquestionably derived from Negro authority, and that not of the + most authentic kind. Santambool is the Negro corruption of + _Strambool_, which is the Arabic name for Constantinople: + _Malisimiel_ is the Negro corruption of Muley Ismael.[286] The + first signifies the empire of Constantinople; the second signifies + the empire of Muley Ismael, who was emperor of Marocco in the early + part of the 18th century, and whose authority was acknowledged at +486 Timbuctoo, where he maintained a strong garrison, and held the + adjacent country in subjection, where his name is held in reverence + to this day. This being premised, it follows of course, that one of + these four great monarchies here alluded to, viz. that of + Santambool is certainly not on the Quolla, unless the Quolla be + considered the same river with the Egyptian Nile, and that Egypt be + considered a part of the empire of Santambool; then, and then only, + can it be said, that the empire of Santambool is situated on the + Quolla. + + [Footnote 286: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii. p. 295, and + note, p. 296.] + + Page 198. Two large lakes were described close to the northward of + Houssa; one called Balahar Sudan, and the other Girrigi Maragasee; + the first of these names is a Negro corruption, or an European + corruption of the term _Bahar Sudan_[287]; the other is a Negro + name of another, if not of the same lake or sea. The situation of + the _Bahar Sudan_ is described by me in the 13th chapter, in my + account of Marocco, to be fifteen journeys east of Timbuctoo, and + the _Neel El Abeed_ passes through it. I had this information from + no less than seven Moorish merchants of intelligence and veracity; + the same is confirmed by Ali Bey[288], the Shereef Imhammed, Park, + and Dr. Seitzen; all these authorities must therefore fall to the +487 ground if Mr. Bowdich's report is to overturn these testimonies, + which has placed it three degrees of latitude north of the _Neel El + Abeed_, or [289]_Neel Assudan_, and in the Sahara[290], + _unconnected with any river_! I doubt if any, but a very ignorant + Pagan Negro (for the Muhamedan Negroes are more intelligent), would + have given the Sea of Sudan this novel situation. + + [Footnote 287: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii.] + + [Footnote 288: For an elucidation of these opinions, see my + Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the European Magazine, + Feb. 1818, page 113.] + + [Footnote 289: Neel Sudan and Neel Assudan are synonymous, the + _as_ being the article.] + + [Footnote 290: See Mr. Bowdich's Map, in his Account of a + Mission to Ashantee.] + + Page 200. The Quolla appears to be the Negro pronunciation of the + Arabic name _Kulla_; i.e. the _Bahar Kulla_, to which the _Neel + Assudan_ is said to flow. _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic word + signifying the sea altogether, or an alluvial country. The _Neel + Assudan_ here joins the waters of a river that proceed westward + from the Abysinian Nile, and hence is formed the water + communication between Cairo[291] and Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 291: See Jackson's Account of Marocco, enlarged + edition, p. 313. See also his Letter to the Editor of the + Monthly Magazine for March, 1817. p. 125.] + + Page 201. Quolla Raba, or Kulla Raba, signifies the Kulla forest, + as the Negroes express it; the Arabs call it _Raba Kulla_, i.e. the + forest of _Kulla_, If any further proof of the accuracy of this + interpretation be necessary, it maybe added, that the position + agrees exactly with Major Rennell's kingdom of _Kulla_, for which + see the Major's map in proceedings of the African Association, vol. + i. page 209, lat. N. 9 deg., long. W. 10 deg.. +488 + Page 203. The lake Fittri is a lake, the waters of which are said + to be filtered through the earth, as the name implies. The Nile is + here said to run under ground. The Arabs and Moors have a + tradition, that the waters of Noah's flood rested here, and were + absorbed and filtered through the earth, leaving only this large + lake. I never understood this sea to be identified with the Bahar + Heimed[292]; i.e. the Hot or Warm Sea. The Hot Sea and the Filtered + Sea are distinct waters; the former lies about mid-way, in a right + line between Lake Fittri and Lake Dwi. (See Laurie and Whittle's + Map of Africa, published in 1813.) This is another inaccuracy of + Mr. Hutchison; who appears, indeed, to have collected information + from natives, without considering what title they had to + credibility. Another error is added to the note in page 203 and + 204, viz. what he calls sweet beans are unquestionably dates, which + have not the least affinity in taste, shape, growth, or quality, to + beans. The Arabic name correctly converted into European letters, + is _timmer_, not _tummer_. The Arabic words designating sweet + beans, is _Elfool El Hellue_. The passage signed William Hutchison + here alluded to, is this: "The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and + _sweet beans called tummer_." + + [Footnote 292: _Heimed_ is an Arabic term, signifying that + degree of heat which milk has when coming from the cow or + goat.] + + Note, page 204. I do not know whence the Quarterly Review has +489 derived its information respecting the derivation of the word Misr + (a corruption of Massar); the word Massar is compounded of the two + Arabic words Ma and Sar; i.e. Mother of Walls. Possibly some Arabic + professor versed in bibliographic lore, to favor a darling + hypothesis, has transmuted Massar into Misr, to strengthen the + plausibility of the etymology of Misr from Misraem!! + + Note, page _205_. _Bahar bela ma_ is an Arabic expression, + importing it to be a country once covered with water, but now no + longer so. In the note in this page, I recognise the word Sooess to + designate the Isthmus of Suez. The Bahar Malee, and the Sebaha + Bahoori, are Negro corruptions of the Arabic words _Bahar El + Maleh_, and _Seba Baharet_: the former does not apply particularly + to the Mediterranean, but _is a term applicable to any sea or ocean + that is salt_ (as all seas and oceans assuredly are); the latter + term signifies literally, the Seven Seas or Waters: neither is this + a term applicable to the Mediterranean, but to any sea supplied by + seven rivers, as the Red Sea: these, therefore, are evidently other + inaccuracies of Mr. Hutchison. I apprehend Mr. Hutchison's Arabic + tutor at Ashantee was not an erudite scholar. The term, and the + only term in Africa, applicable to the Mediterranean Sea, is the + _Bahar Segrer_ (literally the Small Sea); and _El Bahar El Kabeer_ + (is the Atlantic Ocean, or literally the Great Sea); the latter is + sometimes figuratively called the _Bahar Addolum_, i.e. the Unknown + Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. +490 + Note, p. 206. Is it possible that the author doubts that Wangara is + east of Timbuctoo? It should seem that he did, as he quotes Mr. + Hutchison as authority for making it to contain Kong, a mountainous + district many journeys south of the _Neel Assudan_. Mr. Park's + testimony is also called in support of this opinion, but they are + both erroneous. Wangara is as well known in Africa to be east of + Timbuqtoo, as in England York is known to be North of of London. + + Oongooroo is a barbarous Negro corruption of Wangara; therefore, + this note, if suffered to pass through the press unnoticed, would + be calculated to confuse, not to elucidate, African geography; + neither can it be called, according to Mr. Horneman's orthography, + Ungura: the name is _Wangara_ which cannot be converted accurately + into any word _but_ Wangara. Ungura Oongooroo, &c. are corruptions + of the proper name, originating in an imperfect, and but an oral + knowledge of the African Arabic. + + Page 210. I apprehend the reason why Wassenah was not known at + Ashantee by the traders, is because it was out of their trading + track. I have no doubt of the existence of Wassenah or Massenah + (for when the names of African towns and countries are recorded, we + should not be particular about a letter or two, when we find so + many orthographical variations are made by different authors); + neither is there any reason (that I know of) to doubt the +491 description of Wassenah given in Riley's Narrative; but it is not + extraordinary, that this place should be unknown at Ashantee, if + there were no commerce or communication between these countries + respectively; it is certain, that the Africans neither know, seek, + or care, for places or countries with which they have no trade or + communication. + + It appears well deserving of observation (for the purpose of + rendering Arabic names intelligible to future African travellers), + that Mr. Bowdich has demonstrated that, what is called in our maps, + 1. Bambarra, 2. Gimbala, 3. Sego, 4. Berghoo, 5. Begarmee, being + written in the Arabic language, with the guttural letter _grain_, + would be quite unintelligible, if pronounced to an African _as they + are written_ by our letters, the nearest approximation to the + Arabic words would be as follows, taking _Gr_ for the nearest + similitude that our alphabet affords to the guttural letter [Arabic] + _grain_. + + Correct Pronunciation. African Orthography. Called in the Maps. + + 1. Banbug'r [Arabic] Bambara. + + 2. Grimbala [Arabic] Gimbala. + + 3. Shagr'u [Arabic] Sego. + + 4. Bergr'u [Arabic] Berghoo. + + 5. Bagrarmee [Arabic] Begarmee. +492 + The African traveller should be precise in his attention to the + sound of these words, otherwise he will be quite unintelligible to + the Africans, and to the Muhamedans. + + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, is certainly incorrect, when he + says, the letter [Arabic] _grain_ should be pronounced _gh_. No + one acquainted _practically_ with the Arabic language, could + possibly be of this opinion; _gh_ having no more resemblance to the + sound of the letter [Arabic] _grain_, than _g_ has to _h_: and + every traveller going to Africa with this erroneous opinion, will, + undoubtedly, be unintelligible to the Africans. + + Finally, the Arabic document, if it may be permitted to call it + Arabic, facing page 128 of this interesting work of Mr. Bowdich, is + a most miserable composition of _Lingua franca_, or corrupt + Spanish, of unintelligible jargon, consisting of many words quite + unintelligible to the Africans, whether Negroes or Moors, or + others. The language of this document, although it has some Arabic + words in it, is worse, if possible, than the scrawl in which it is + written; neither is it a correct translation of the English which + precedes it. But purporting to be a letter issued from the + _accredited servants of the King of the English_, it is certainly a + disgrace to the country from whence it issues, and a rare specimen + of our knowledge of the Arabic language. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. +493 + + _Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa._ + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE JOURNAL OF TRADE, &c. + + Sir, Eton, June 30, 1818. + + The last expedition from Sierra Leone, in addition to many others + sent out for the purpose of _exploring the interior of Africa_, + having failed, and the enterprising and persevering Mr. Burckhardt, + having frustrated the well grounded hopes of the African + Association, by his having paid the debt of nature, it is not + improbable that His Majesty's government _will now direct their + attention with energy to the only plan that can possibly make that + interesting and extraordinary country a jewel in the British + crown_. + + This important discovery, which would immortalise the prince, who + should cherish it to its maturity, _can be effected only through + the medium of commerce_. But it should be attempted not only with + energy and decision, but with _dispatch_, before the enterprising + and commercial spirit of a foreign power (seeing how abortive our + efforts have been), shall snatch from us the glorious opportunity + now offered of _laying open the interior regions of Africa_ to the + commercial enterprise of Great Britain. + + I am, Sir, Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. +494 + + The following curious Memoir was composed by Edmund Hogan, in the + reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lately found amongst the papers of + one of his descendants. + + (A TRUE COPY.) + + "_The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the Sworne Esquires of + her Ma't's Person, from her Highnesse to Muley Abdelmelech, + Emperour of Morocco, and King of Fes and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. + Written by himselfe_. + + "I Edmund Hogan, being appointed Embassadour from the Queens Ma'tie + to the above-named Emperour and King Muley Abdelmelech, departed + with my company and servants from London the 22d April, 1577, being + imbarked in the good ship called the Gallion, of London, and + arrived in Azafi, a port of Barbary, the 21st of May next + following. Immediately I sent Leonell Egerton ashoare with my + letters directed to John Williams and John Bampton, who dispatched + a courier to Morocco to know the Kings pleasure for my repaire to + the court, which letters came to theire hands on the Thursday + night. They with all speed gave the King understanding of it, who + being glad thereof, speeded the next day certaine captaines, with + souldiera and tents, with other provision, to Azafi; so that upon + Whitsunday at night, the said captaines, with John Bampton, Robert +495 Washborne, and Robert Lion, and the Kings officers, came late to + Azafi. In the meane time I remained aboard, and caused some of the + goods to be discharged, for lightning of the ship; and I wrote in + my letter that I would not lande 'till I knew the Kings pleasure. + The 26th day, being Saturday, the Mark-speed arrived in the roade + about two of the clock in the afternoone. The 27th day, being + Whitsunday, came aboard the Gallion, John Bampton, and others, + giving me to understand how much the King rejoyced of my safe + arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie; and how that for my safe + conduct to the court he had sent four captaines, and an hundred + souldiers well appointed, with a horse furnished, which he used + himself to ride on, with all other furniture accordingly; they + wished me also to come on land in the best order I could, as well + for my self as my men, which I did, having to the number of ten + men, whereof three were trumpeters. The ships being four, appointed + themselves in the best order they could, for the best shew, and + shott off all theire ordinance to the value of twenty marks in + powder. At my coming, ashoare, I found all the souldiers well + appointed on horseback, the captaines and the Govern'r of the towne + standing as neer the water side as they could, with a jennet of the + Kings, and rec'd me from the boate, declaring how glad his Ma'tie + was of my safe arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie my +496 Mistresse, and that he had sent them to attend upon me, it being + his pleasure that I should tarrie there on shoare five or six dayes + for my refreshing; so being mounted upon the jennet, they conducted + me through the towne into a faire fielde upon the sea side, where + there was a tent provided for me, and all the ground spread with + Turkie carpets, and the castle discharged a peale of ordinance, and + all things necessarie were brought into my tent, where I both tooke + my table and lodging, and had other convenient tents for my + servants. The souldiers inviron'd the tents, and watched about us + day and night as long as I lay there, altho' I sought my speedier + dispatch. On the Wednesday towards night, I tooke my horse, and + travelled ten miles to the first place of water that wee could + finde, and there pitched our tents 'till the next morning, and so + traveled till ten of the clock, and then pitched our tents 'till + four, and so traveled as long as day light would suffer, about + twenty-six miles that day. The next day being Fryday, I traveled in + like order but eight and twenty miles at the most; and by a + [293]river, being about six miles within sight of the Citty of + Morocco, wee pitched bur tents. Imediately after came all our + English Merchants, and the French, on horseback, to meete me; and + before night there came an Alcayde from the King with fiftie men, + and divers mules laden with victuall and banket for my supper, +497 declaring unto me how glad the King shewed himselfe to hear of the + Queens Ma'tie, and that his pleasure was I should be received into + his countrey as never any Christian the like; and desired to know + what time the next day I would come into his Citie, because he + would that all the Christians, as also his Nobilitie, should meete + me; and willed John Bampton to be with him early in the morning, + which he did. About seven of the clock, being accompanied with the + French and English Merchants, and a great number of souldiers, I + passed towards the Citie, and by that time I had traveled two + miles, there met me all the Christians of the Spaniards and + Portugals to receive me, which I know was more by the Kings + commandment then of any good wills of themselves; for some of them, + although they speake me faire, hung downe theire heads like dogs, + and especially the Portugals; and I countenanced them accordingly. + So I passed on, 'till I came within two English miles of the Citie; + and then John Bampton returned, shewing me that the King was so + glad of my coming, that he could not devise to doe too much, to + shew the good will that he did owe to the Queens Ma'tie and her + Realme; His counsellors met me without the gates; and at the entrie + of the gates, his footmen and guard were placed on both sides of my + horse, and so brought me to the King's palace. The King sate in his + chaire, with his Counsell about him, as well the Moores as the +498 Alkaids; and, according to his order given unto me before, I there + declared my message in Spanish, and made deliverie of the Queens + Ma't's letters, and all that I spake at that present in Spanish, he + caused one of his Alkaids to declare the same to the Moores present + in the Arabic tongue; which done, he answered me againe in Spanish, + yeelding to the Queens Ma'tie great thankes, and offering himselfe + and his countrey to be at her Graces comandment; and he comanded + certaine of his counsellors to conduct me to my lodging, not being + farr from the Court. The house was faire, after the fashion of that + countrey, being dayly well furnished with all kinde of victuall at + the Kings charge. The same night he sent for me to the court, and I + had conference with him about the space of two houres; where I + throughly declared the charge co'mitted unto me from her Ma'tie, + finding him conformable, willing to pleasure, and not to urge her + Ma'tie with any demands, more then conveniently she might willingly + consent unto, hee knowing that out of his countrey the Realme of + England might be better served with lackes, then he in comparison + from us. Further, he gave me to understand, that the King of Spain + had sent unto him for a licence that an Embassadour of his might + come into his countrey, and had made great meanes, that if the + Queens Ma'tie of England sent any unto him, that he would not give + him any credit or entertainment; albeit (said he) I know what the +499 King of Spaine, and what the Queene of England and her realme is; + for I neither like of him, nor of his religion, being so governed + by the Inquisition, that he can doe nothing of himselfe. Therefore, + when he cometh upon the licence which I have granted, he shall well + see how little account I will make of him and Spaine, and how + greatly I will extoll you for the Queenes Ma'tie of England; he + shall not come to my presence as you have done, and shall dayly, + for I minde to accept of you as my companion, and one of my house, + whereas he shall attend twentie dayes after he hath done his + message. After the end of this speech, I delivered Sir Thomas + Gresham's letters; when as he tooke me by the hand, and led me + downe a long court to a palace, where there ranne a faire fountaine + of water, and there sitting himselfe in a chaire, he comanded me to + sitt downe in another, and there called for such simple musicians + as he had. Then I presented him with a greate base lute, which he + most thankfully accepted, and then he was desirous to hear of the + musicians; and I tolde him, that there was great care had to + provide them, and that I did not doubt but upon my returne they + should come with the first ship. He is willing to give them good + entertainment, with provision of victuall, and to let them live + according to theire law and conscience, wherein he urgeth none to + the contrary. I finde him to be one that liveth greatly in the fear +500 of God, being well exercised in the Scriptures, as well in the Old + Testament, as also in the New, and he beareth a greater affection + to our nation then to others, because of our religion, which + forbiddeth worship of idols; and the Moores called him the + Christian King. The same night, being the first of June, I + continued with him till twelve of the clock, and he seemed to have + so good likeing of me, that he tooke from his girdle a short + dagger, being sett with 200 stones rubies and Turkies, and did + bestowe it upon me; and so I, being conducted, returned to my + lodging for that time. The next day, because he knew it to be + Sunday, and our Sabboth day, he did let me rest; but on the Monday + in the afternoone he sent for me, and I had conference with him + againe, and musick. Likewise on the Tuesday, by three of the clock, + he sent for me into his garden, finding him layed upon a silk bed, + complaining of a sore leg; yet, after long conference, he walked + into another orchard, whereas having a fair banketing house, and a + great water, and a new gallie in it, he went aboard the gallie, and + tooke me with him, and passed the space of two or three houres, + shewing the great experience he had in gallies, wherein (as he + said) he had exercised himselfe eighteene yeares in his youth. + After supper he shewed me his horses, and other co'modities that he + had about his house; and since that night I have not seene him, for + that he hath kept in with his sore legg; but he hath sent to me +501 dayly. The 18th of June, at six of the clock at night, I had againe + audience of the King, and I continued with him, till midnight, + having debated, as well for the Queenes co'mission, as for the + well-dealing with her merchants for their traffick here in these + parts, saying, he would do much more for the Queenes Ma'tie and the + Realme; offering that all English ships with her subjects may with + good securitie enter into his ports and dominions, as well in trade + of merchandize, as for victuall and water, as also in time of warr + with any of her enemies, to bring in prizes, and to make sales as + occasion should serve, or else to depart againe with them at theire + pleasure. Likewise for all English ships that shall passe along his + Coast of Barbary, and threw the Streights into the Levant seas, and + so to the Turks dominions, and the King of Algiers, as his owne; + and that he would write to the Turke, and to the King of Algiers, + his letters for the well using of our ships and goods. Also, that + hereafter no Englishman that by any meanes may be taken captives, + shall be sold within any of his dominions; whereupon I declared + that the Queenes Ma'tie, accepting of these his offers, was pleased + to confirme the intercourse and trade of our Merchants within this + his countrey, as also to pleasure him with such commodities as he + should have need of, to furnish the necessities and wants of his + country in trade of merchandize, so as he required nothing contrary + to her honour and law, and the breach of league with the Christian +502 Princes her neighbours. The same night I presented the King with + the case of combes, and desired his Ma'tie to have speciall regard + that the ships might be Iaden back againe, for that I found little + store of salt-peter in readinesse in John Bampton's hands; he + answered me, that I should have all the assistance therein that he + could, but that in[294] Sus he thought to have some store in his + house there, as also that the Mountainers had made much in a + readinesse; I requested that he would sende downe, which he + promised to doe. The eighteenth day I was with him againe, and so + continued there till night; and he shewed me his house, with + pastime in ducking with water spaniels, and baiting bulls with his + English doggs. At this time I moved him againe for the sending + downe to Sus, which he granted to doe; and the 24th day there + departed Alcayde Mammie, with Lionell Egerton, and Rowland Guy, to + Sus; and carried with them, for our accounts and his company, the + Kings letters to his brother Muly Hammet, and Alcayde Shavan, and + the Viceroy. The 23d day the King sent me out of Morocco to his + garden called Shersbonare, with his guard and Alcayde Mamoute; and + the 24th at night I came to the Court to see a Morris-dance, and a + play of his Alkaids; he promised me audience the next day, being +503 Tuesday, but he putt it off 'till Thursday; and the Thursday at + night I was sent for to the King after supper, and then he sent + Alcayde Rodwan and Alcayde Gowry to conferr with me; but, after a + little talk, I desired to be brought to the King for my dispatch. + And being brought to him,. I preferred two bills of John Bampton's, + which he had made for provision of salt-peter, also two bills for + the quiet traffique of our English Merchants, and bills for sugars + to be made by the Jewes, as well for the debts past, as hereafter, + and for good order in the Ingenios. Also I moved him againe for the + salt-peter, and other dispatches, which he referred to be agreed + upon by the two Alcaydes. But the Fryday, being the 20th, the + Alcaydes could not intend it, and upon Saturday Alcayde Rodwan fell + sick; so on Sunday wee made meanes to the King, and that afternoone + I was sent for to conferre upon the bargaine with the Alcaydes and + others; but did not agree. Upon Tuesday I wrote a letter to the + King for my dispatch; and the same afternoone I was called againe + to the Court, and referred all things to the King, accepting his + offer of salt-peter. That night againe the King had me into his + gallie, and the spaniels did hunt the duck. The Thursday I was + appointed to weigh the 300 quintals grosse of salt-peter,, and that + afternoone the Tabybe came unto me to my lodging, shewing me that + the King was offended with John Bampton for divers causes. The +504 Sunday night late, being the 7th July, I got the King to forgive + all to John Bampton, and the King promised me to speake againe with + me upon Monday. Upon Tuesday I wrote to him againe for my dispatch, + and then he sent Fray Lewes to me, and said, that he had order to + write. Upon Wednesday I wrote againe; and he sent me word that I + should come and be dispatched, so that I should depart upon Fryday + without faile, being the 12th July. So the Fryday after, according + to the Kings order and appointment, I went to the Court; and + whereas motion and petition was made for the confirmac'on of the + demands which I had preferred, they were all granted, and likewise + which were on the behalfe of our English Merchants requested, were + with great favour and readinesse yeilded unto. And whereas the + Jewes there resident, were to our men in certaine round sum'es + indebted, the Emperor's pleasure and co'mandment was, that they + should without further excuse or delay pay and discharge the same. + And thus at length I was dismissed with great honour and speciall + countenance, such as hath not ordinarily bene shewed to other + Embassadors of the Christians. And touching the private affairs + intreated upon betwixt her Ma'tie and the Emperour, I had letters + from him to satisfie her Highnesse therein. So to conclude, having + received the like honourable conduct from his Court, as I had for + my part at my first landing, I imbarked myself with my foresaid +505 company; and arriving not long after in England, I repaired to her + Ma'ties Court, and ended my embassage to her Highnesses good + liking, with relation of my service performed." + + [Footnote 293: The Tensift.] + + [Footnote 294: Great quantities of superior saltpetre are + produced at Terodant in Suse.] + + _Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L. and E._ + + Sir, London, 17th January, 1818. + + Having read, with considerable satisfaction, your very able and + judicious dissertation respecting Africa, in the new Supplement to + the Encyclopedia Britannica, I will take the liberty to offer some + animadversions that have occurred to me in the perusal of that very + interesting article. + + _Bahr Kulla_ I conceive to be an immerged country, of considerable + extent, similar to Wangara; for the name, which is Arabic, implies + as much. The correct orthography, translated literally into English + is _Bahr Kulha_, which signifies the sea, wholly or altogether, + implying, therefore, an alluvial country. + + Respecting goat-skins dyed red or yellow, these are not brought by + caravans from central Africa to Marocco, but are manufactured at + Marocco, Fas, Mequinas, and Terodant the metropolis of Suse, from + which manufactories they are conveyed to the interior regions for + sale. Goat-skins, with the hair, in the raw state only, are + exported from Mogodor to England. +506 + When Moore asserted that there was no such river as the Niger, he + evidently meant that the _natives of Africa_ knew it not by that + name; which is undoubtedly correct; for the word being an European + word, it would not be known in Africa: but its translation into + Arabic is _Bahar El Abeed_, i. e. the river of Negroes. Edrissi + called it Niger, from the same motive, viz. because it was so named + by _Europeans_, and by them only. + + I conceive that the hypothesis which has been credited by some, + viz. that there is no receptacle for the two Niles, between Cashna + and Timbuctoo, must now necessarily fall to the ground; since the + sea of Sudan, first declared by me to be between Cashna and + Timbuctoo, and since confirmed by Ali Bey, and by Park, in his + second journey, can (as I apprehend) no longer be doubted: and it + is not improbable that this is the common receptacle of the Nile of + the West and the Nile of the East. This hypothesis is strengthened + by the testimony of the Shereef Imhammed, who has said, that he + himself saw the Nile, at Cashna, flowing so rapidly westward, that + vessels could not stem the current. If this be true, the [295]_Ba + Sea Feena_ of Park, which is only another name for the _Sea of + Sudan_, must lie west of Cashna, and, probably, about the same +507 point that it is stated by me to be situated, viz. fifteen journeys + of horse-travelling, or from 400 to 450 British miles east of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 295: The Arabic orthography is _Bahar S'feena_ which + being literally translated into English, signifies the Sea of + Ships.] + + The word _Djinawa_ is the African word that denominates Guinea, but + I cannot imagine that it was ever intended to signify Gana. (See + Supplement to Encyclopaedia Britannica, p. 104.) + + You say there are, in Africa, two rivers to which the name of + _Niger_ has been given: this is evidently an error, but possibly of + the press only. There are, however, two rivers in Africa to which + the name of _Neel_ has been given. + + The Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p. 540, declare + that the Nile is a name applied in Africa to any great river; but + as this assertion is calculated to produce confusion in the + geographical elucidation of the interior of that continent, and as + it certainly is not the fact, I must here beg leave to contradict + it, and declare that there are absolutely but two rivers in Africa, + that bear the name Neel or Nile, viz. the Neel El Kabeer, Neele + Sudan, or Neel El Abeed, i.e. the great Nile, the Nile of Sudan or + the Nile of the Negroes; and Neele Masser, i.e. the Nile of + Egypt.[296] + + [Footnote 296: _Nile_ is a French term, and loses its proper + pronunciation and is unintelligible when pronounced by an + Englishman to an African; but if written _Neel_, and pronounced + by an Englishman, it is intelligible.] + + If my knowledge of the African Arabic can be of any service in +508 giving you the signification or correct orthography of African + words, in the event of your favouring the public with a future + edition of your New Supplement to the Encyclopaedia Britannica, any + information that I can communicate to you will be very much at your + service; and you may in this and in any other respect that regards + Africa freely command my services. + + + _Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels + in Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D., by Hugh Murray, Esq. + F.R.S.E._ + + TO HUGH MURRAY ESQ. F.R.S.E. + + Sir, + + London, Feb. 1818. + + You have certainly rendered to your country a service, in the + publication of "The Travels and Discoveries in Africa, of the late + John Leyden," the perusal of which has been to me a fund of + instruction and entertainment; it is a most valuable work, and such + a one as was wanted by the literary world, inasmuch as the + judicious collection of the matter forms a most valuable epitome of + African knowledge, collecting what was before distributed into many + folios. + + I anticipate that the information in this work, communicated to the + public, will soon be circulated, and you will be called upon to + supply a second edition. In the mean time, I take the liberty of + submitting to your perusal a few cursory observations which I have +509 made during the perusal of it, on the accuracy of which you may + assuredly rely. These apply for the most part to Arabian words, + which have been by the moderns, as well as the ancients variously + corrupted and mutilated. Desirous (for the information of those who + really seek after African knowledge) that this book will pass + through many editions. I am, &c. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Cursory Observations_. + + "The _Ludaia_, are not inhabitants of _Ludama_, they are a very + numerous and warlike tribe of Arabs, inhabiting the Sahara, of + which there are two or three emigrations or encampments in + different and distant parts of Sahara; the Emperor of Marocco has + some thousands of them in his army, and they are esteemed (next to + the negroes, called Abeed Seedy Bukaree) his best troops. See the + Map of the tracts from Fas and Arguin to Timbuctoo, facing page 1. + Lat. N. 24 deg.. long. W. 3 deg.. + + "This serpent is the _Buska_, described in Jackson's enlarged + Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109. Providence has afforded to man an + opportunity of evading the attack of this deadly animal; for when + it coils itself up, and by the strength of its tail darts forward + fifteen or twenty yards at once, the person attacked, by watching + vigilantly its motions, evades the attack, by moving only a short + distance from the right line, in which it is prepared to dart +510 forwards; neither can the _Buska_ govern itself in the extent of + its movement, but necessarily goes as far as its strength will + permit, and then coils itself up again in a circular form, again + erects its head, and darts a second time to its object. I have + conversed with Arabs, who have been attacked by this monster, and + they have assured me, that, by vigilantly watching its motion, and + the direction of its head, when preparing to dart forward, they may + escape its attack.[297] + + "It is not correct to assert that _Nasari is a general term_, + applied to infidels in Muhamed; it is applied to Christians only. + _Kaffer is the general term_ applied to all who have not faith in + the Arabian Prophet.[298] + + "That which you call the Talk Tree, is the tree which produces the + Barbary gum; the name is _talh_.[299]" + + [Footnote 297: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 306.] + + [Footnote 298: Ibid, p. 429.] + + [Footnote 299: Ibid. 204.] + + "The _Keydenah_.--This is the Sudanic name for the tree which + produces the Argan nut, or olive, the _kernel_ of which resembles a + bitter almond, and from _it_, not from the shell, they extract the + oil, so celebrated for frying fish, and for burning; a pint of + which will afford light as long as two pints of olive oil. + + "The She plant, or properly Sheh is not wild thyme, nor does it + resemble it, it is the wormseed plant, the seed of which is an +511 article of exportation, from the ports of Marocco, The sheh + resembles the absynthum. The wild thyme is called _zatar_, also an + article of exportation from the ports of the Marocco empire.[300] + + "The _Alsharra_ signifies the Book of Laws of Muhamed.[301] + + "_Gebel Ramlie_ should be written _Jibbel Rummelie_, i.e. the Sandy + Mountain.[302] + + "The Elwah [303]Elgarbie is inhabited by the Maggrebee Arabs. My + late friend, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother to Muley Soliman, the + reigning Emperor of Marocco, had a very large estate in this Wah, + called Santariah. In the 1793d year of the Christian era, he sent + his friend and servant Alkaid Muhammed ben Abd Saddack, late + governor of Mogodor, to effect the sale of this estate. He was + absent on this embassy two years and three months.[304] + + "_Sheb_ is the Arabic for alum, the correct orthography is + _Shib_.[305] + + "_Marybucks_ should be _Marabet_, i.e. Priests, or Holy + Muhamedans.[306] + + "The primitive plough is used in all the African countries + inhabited by the Arabs, or their descendants; the negroes, however, + use the hoe." [307] + + [Footnote 300: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 312.] + + [Footnote 301: Ibid, p. 334.] + + [Footnote 302: Ibid, p. 398.] + + [Footnote 303: Let the African traveller be careful to + pronounce these g's guttural (Arabic.)] + + [Footnote 304: Ibid, p. 399.] + + [Footnote 305: Ibid. ibid.] + + [Footnote 306: Ibid. p. 225.] + + [Footnote 307: Ibid. p. 227.] + +512 + "The Mouselmines is a French corruption of the term Muselman, i.e. + Mohamedans. + + "Mongearts, i.e. Moguert, the g guttural. + + "Ouadelim, i.e. Wooled Deleim, or the sons of Deemy. + + "Labdessebah, i.e. Woled Abbusebah, 'the sons of Abbusebah.'[308] + + "Wed de Non, i.e. Wedinoon. + + "The herb, with a decoction of which they dye their nails and + hands, is called by the Arabs _El Henna_: it imparts a coolness and + softness to the hands, and diminishes the excessive perspiration + incident to warm climates.[309] + + "Hooled ben Soliman ought to be Woled ben Soliman, 'the sons of the + sons of Soliman;' and Benioled, should be Ben El Waled, 'the sons + of Elwaled.'[310] + + "The small beautiful species of deer, is the _El Horreh:_ it is an + inhabitant of the confines of the Saharah; it is said never to lie + down. It produces the anti-poison called bezoar stone, (called in + the Arabic _Bide El Horrek_, i.e. the testicle of the Horreh.) This + is an article of commerce at Santa Cruz, and Wedinoon. The back and + sides of the skins of these animals are of a red brown, and of a + vivid white underneath." [311] + + [Footnote 308: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 262.] + + [Footnote 309: Ibid. p. 291.] + + [Footnote 310: Ibid. p. 299.] + + [Footnote 311: Ibid. p. 303.] + +513 + TO JAMES GREY JACKSON, ESQ. + + Sir, + + Edinburgh, May 3. 1818. + + I have lately been favoured with two communications from you:--the + one a letter to Mr. Napier, editor of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, + on the subject of the article _Africa_, of which I was the author, + and which Mr. Napier, therefore, put into my hands; the other, a + letter direct to myself, on the subject of my edition of "Leyden's + Discoveries in Africa." I fully intended to have answered them + before now, but the pressure of other business, with the wish to + bestow upon them the leisurely consideration which they merited, + has hitherto prevented me. I feel much gratified by the favourable + opinion which you express of what I have done on this subject, and + much obliged to you for your communications, and offers of further + information. I experienced very much the disadvantage arising from + a want of knowledge of the languages of North Africa, with which + you appear to have a _very extensive acquaintance. Indeed, several + of the etymologies which you have given, are very interesting_. I + was particularly pleased to receive that of the term _Ba Sea + Feena_, though I cannot conceal that it tends to strengthen the + doubts which I have entertained of its applying to the sea on the + Gold Coast. The distance, the direction southwards, the Christians, + the motion one way and another, and even the ships, are all +514 circumstances which would agree. There are arguments, however, + against it; and it is certain that Park did not so understand it. + Do you think there is any chance that the Bahr Soudan could be the + Gulf of Guinea? + + If you are acquainted with any circumstances which could tend to + confirm or refute the narrative of Sidi Hamet, as given by Riley, + or throw light upon Riley's general credibility; or if you have + ever heard any report of such a city as _Wassanah_, I should feel + particularly obliged to you for communicating such information: and + whenever I find myself at a loss, I shall gladly avail myself of + the liberality with which you show yourself disposed to impart the + knowledge of which you have become possessed. + + I shall communicate this letter to Mr. Napier; and it is but fair + to mention, that, from the circumstances already stated, I am + solely responsible for the too long delay which has taken place in + answering your letter to him, as well as that to myself. + + HUGH MURRAY. + + _On the Niger and the Nile._ + + London, 7th April, 1820. + + In the 25th number of the Quarterly Review, (article Park's + Travels,) the hypothesis there laid down as almost indisputable, is +515 the non-continuity of the two Niles of Africa, or (according to the + European phraseology of the day) of the Niger and the Nile. + + This hypothesis founded on the opinion of Major Rennel, carries + with it no evidence whatever, but the speculative theory of that + learned geographer. The identity or connection of the two Niles, + and the consequent water communication between[312] Cairo and + Timbuctoo receives (supposing the Quarterly Review to be correct), + as our intelligence respecting Africa increases, additional + confirmation: and even the Quarterly Reviewer, who denominated the + opinion recorded by me, the gossipping stories of Negroes, (_vide_ + Quarterly Review, No. 25, p. 140.) now favours this opinion! + + The Quarterly Reviewer appreciates Burckhardt's information on this + subject, and depreciates mine, _although both are derived from the + same sources of[313] intelligence, and confirm one another_: the + reviewer says, Mr. Burckhardt has revived a question of older date; + viz. "that the Niger of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are one and the + same river: this general testimony to a physical fact can be shaken + only by direct proof to the contrary." + + [Footnote 312: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 310.] + + [Footnote 313: _i. e_. Intelligence from natives of Africa.] + + This is all very well: I do not object to the Quarterly Reviewer + giving up an opinion which he finds no longer tenable; but when I + see in the same review (No. 44, p. 481.) the following words,--"we +516 give no credit whatever to the report received by Mr. Jackson, of a + person (several Negroes[314], it should be) having performed a + voyage by water from Timbuctoo to Cairo," I cannot but observe with + astonishment, that the Reviewer believes Burckhardt's report, that + they are the same river, when, at the same time he does not believe + mine. + + [Footnote 314: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 312.] + + Is there not an inconsistency here, somewhat incompatible with the + impartiality which _ought_ to regulate the works of criticism? I + will not for a moment suppose it to have proceeded from a spirit of + animosity, which I feel myself unconscious of deserving. But the + reviewer further says, the objection to the identity of the Niger + and the Nile, is grounded on the incongruity of their periodical + inundations, or on the rise and fall of the former river not + corresponding with that of the latter. I do not comprehend whence + the Quarterly Reviewer has derived this information; I have always + understood the direct contrary, which I have declared in the + enlarged editions of my account of Marocco, page 304, which has + been confirmed by a most intelligent African traveller, Ali Bey, + (for which see his travels, page 220.) + + I may be allowed to observe, that although the Quarterly Reviewer + has changed his opinion on this matter, I have invariably + maintained mine, founded as it is on the concurrent testimony of + the best informed and most intelligent native African travellers, +517 and I still assert, on the same foundation, _the identity of the + two Niles, and their continuity of waters_. + + I have further to remark what will most probably ere long prove + correct; viz. that the _Bahar Abiad_[315], that is to say, the + river that passes through the country of Negroes, between Senaar + and Donga, is an erroneous appellation, originating in the general + ignorance among European travellers of the African Arabic, and that + the proper name of this river is Bahar Abeed, which is another term + for the river called the Nile-el-Abeed, which passes south of + Timbuctoo towards the east (called by Europeans the Niger). + + It therefore appears to me, and I really think it must appear to + every unbiassed investigator of African geography, that every iota + of African discovery, made successively, by Hornemann[316], + Burckhardt, and others, tends to confirm _my water communication + between Timbuctoo and Cairo_, and the theorists and speculators in + African geography, who have heaped hypothesis upon hypothesis, + error upon error, who have raised splendid fabrics upon pillars of + ice, will ere long close their book, and be compelled, by the force + of truth and experience, to admit the fact stated about twelve + years ago by me in my account of Marocco, &c. viz. _that the Nile +518 of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are identified by a continuity of + waters, and that a water communication is provided by these two + great rivers from Timbuctoo to Cairo_; and moreover, that the + general African opinion, _that the Neel-el-Abeed_ (Niger) + _discharges itself into the_ (Bahar el Maleh) _Salt Sea, signifies + neither more nor less than that it discharges itself at the Delta + in Egypt, into the Mediterranean Sea_! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + [Footnote 315: Bahar Abiad signifies White River; Bahar Abeed + signifies River of Negroes.] + + [Footnote 316: _Vide_ my letter in Monthly Magazine on this + subject for March, 1817, p. 124.] + + + + + APPENDIX + + BEING HISTORICAL FRAGMENTS IN ELUCIDATION OF + THE FOREGOING PAGES. + +_First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo.--Timbuctoo and Guago captured +by Muley Homed, (son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley +Melk[317], or Muley Moluck,) in the 16th Century, (about the Year +1580_.) + + [Footnote 317: See the Spectator, No. 349.] + +Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Moluck, in 1577, A.C. fought the +celebrated battle with Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, near Alkassar, +which is at a short distance from L'Araich, wherein Don Sebastian was +killed; and Abdelmelk being, before the battle, extremely ill, his son +Muley Hamed went to his litter, to communicate to the Emperor his +father, that the Moors had gained the victory, when he found his father +dead and cold. Muley Hamed concealed this event till the battle was +over; and was then proclaimed Emperor, and reigned twenty-six years: he +cultivated the arts and sciences, mathematics and astronomy, which last +was of essential service to him in crossing the Sahara to Timbuctoo and +Guago; during which perilous journey the compass is so indispensable, +that there is no certainty of travelling without it. He lost some +thousands in this expedition; but if gold could recompense the waste of +human life, he was rewarded for his journey of abstinence and privation +across the Sahara, for he brought from Guago seventy-five quintals, and +from Timbuctoo sixty quintals, of gold-dust, making together one hundred +and thirty-five quintals, or 16,065 lb. English avoir-du-poids weight of +gold. + +_A Library of Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards,--Contests among +Christians reprimanded._ + +Muley Sidan, son of Muley Hamed, disputed the throne of Marocco, A.C. +1611, with three brothers, one of whom was supported by the Spaniards, +whose succour was purchased by his delivering into their hands the port +of L'Araich, soon after which they gained a naval victory over the +forces of Sidan, which was very disastrous to the Africans; for the +Spaniards, besides other plunder, got possession of 3000 Arabic books, +on theology, philosophy, and medicine. Sidan, however, notwithstanding +this disaster, maintained his right to the crown. He was of a liberal +and charitable mind. He protected and granted to the Christians various +privileges; but _he ordered that Christians of all sects, and +denominations should live in peace one with another_. + +One day, some (_Userah_) Christian slaves of Provence, in France, who +were Catholics, had a controversial dispute with others from Rochelle, +who were Calvinists. This dispute ended in a violent contest, +accompanied with blows on either side; this scene excited the curiosity +of the Muselmen, who were surprised to see Christians thus fight among +themselves on points of their own law! The report of this battle was +carried to Sidan, who ordered all these slaves to be brought before him. +He condemned some to a bastinado, which was inflicted in his presence. +He then addressed them thus:--"I command you all, on pain of death, not +to dispute in future on the various dogmas of your law: every one has +the presumption to think _himself_ right; and as I allow every +individual in my dominions to follow the religion that he chooses for +himself; _slaves ought to have among themselves the same toleration_". + +_Muley El Arsheed, (a second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan.)_ + +This Sultan preceded the renowned Muley Ismael, on the throne of +Marocco: he united to great ability the most ferocious disposition, and +was continually inebriated.--He crossed the Sahara to Timbuctoo, with a +numerous army, about the year of Christ 1670; proceeding to _Suse_, he +laid siege to the Sanctuary of _Seedi Aly ben Aidar_, near _Ilirgh_: +Seedi Aly, making his escape in disguise, fled to Sudan, whither he was +followed by Muley El Arsheed, who, on his arrival on the confines of +Sudan, between Timbuctoo and Jinnie, was met by a numerous host of +Negroes, commanded by a black sultan: the Emperor demanded Aly ben +Aidar; but the sultan of Bambarra replied, that, as he had claimed his +protection, it would be an infringement on the laws of hospitality to +deliver him up, adding, that he desired to know if the views of El +Arsheed were hostile or not; to which the latter replied, after +endeavouring in vain to procure the person of Aly, that he was not come +hostilely, but was about to return, which he forthwith did: and the +Bambareen sultan, having received from Aly two beautiful renegade +virgins, was so much flattered with the present, that he promised him +any thing that he should ask; whereupon, he requested permission to go +to Timbuctoo, and to settle there with his numerous followers; which +being granted, he proceeded thither, and having established a Moorish +garrison, resided there several, months, and afterwards returned to +Barbary, bringing with him many thousand Bambareen negroes: but, on his +reaching Suse, he heard of the death of Muley El Arsheed, and having +then no farther occasion for these negroes, he dismissed them. They went +to various parts of the country, serving the inhabitants in order to +procure daily subsistence; but the arch-politician Muley Ismael, who had +then recently been proclaimed as his successor, ordered them to be +collected together, and incorporated in his negro army, which was, +however, before this, very numerous, consisting for the most part of +blacks, brought away from Sudan by Muley El Arsheed the preceding year. +The Sultan Ismael also seized this opportunity of establishing his +authority at Timbuctoo, and he met with little or no opposition in +putting that place under contribution. Having sent fresh troops to +occupy the Moorish garrison there, the inhabitants were glad to make a +contribution, in exchange for the protection and power which it afforded +them; for previous to this, they had been subject to continual +depredations, from the Arabs of the adjacent country, to whom they had +been compelled to pay tribute, as a security for their caravans, which +were constantly passing the country of these Arabs, who are of the race +of Brabeesh. In the year 1727, A.C. when Ismael died, it is reported +that he possessed an immense quantity of gold, of the purity of which, +his gold coins, to be seen at this day at Timbuctoo, bear testimony; it +is also said, that the massive bolts of his palaces were of pure gold, +as well as the utensils of his kitchens. After his decease, however, the +tribute was discontinued, and the Moorish garrison at Timbuctoo, +intermarrying with the natives, and dispersing themselves in the +neighbouring country, has given to Timbuctoo that tincture of Muselman +manners, which they are known to possess; their descendants forming, at +this period, a considerable portion of the population of Timbuctoo. + +_Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan_. + +Muley Ismael died of an abscess in 1727, and was succeeded by his +youngest son Muley Hamed Dehebby, a most avaricious prince, whose +treasure, collected in his government during the life of his father, +amounted to ten millions; to which was now added his father's treasury, +amounting to fifty millions, besides jewels and diamonds to a much +larger amount. + +Dehebby[318], sanguinary and cruel when sober, was mild, affable, and +humane when intoxicated: unlike Muselmen, he believed not in +predestination, but had always several surgeons and doctors in his +suite, and consulted them with the most unlimited confidence when ill. +He decorated the palace of Marocco: in one of the apartments of the +seraglio, of which he had had painted, in a superior style, the twelve +signs of the zodiac; for which his ignorant and bigoted subjects accused +him of having conspired against the Deity, in imitating, by gross and +ill-formed images, the works of the Almighty. This prince was an +intolerable drunkard; so that the Marabets and chiefs of the empire +called Abdelmelk to the throne, whom they enabled to take possession of +Mequinas. This prince, anticipating the revenge of Dehebby, proposed to +deprive him of his eye-sight; but the Marabets and chiefs opposed this +resolution and replied to him in the following words:--"It is not for +his crimes that we have deposed thy brother, but for his continual +intoxication, which prevented him from watching over the government and +his officers: he has therefore only been guilty of weakness, which is +not a punishable crime." Abdelmelk dared not push his point, but was +contented to send his brother to the (_Bled Shereef_), country of +princes, i.e. Tafilelt. Before Dehebby was dethroned, he marched with a +numerous army across Sahara, to Timbuctoo, of which he took possession, +and brought home immense quantities of gold. + + [Footnote 318: His proper name was Muley Hamed ben Ismael, the name + Dehebby is figurative of his riches in gold.] + +1730.--Muley Hamed Dehebby dying, should have been succeeded by his son +Muley Bouffer; but money and intrigue gave power to Abdallah, a son of +Muley Ismael, who was proclaimed in spite of the efforts of his nephew, +whom he attacked at Terodant, the capital of Suse. Bouffer was taken, +together with a Marabet, his confidential friend and counsellor. +Abdallah ordered them both to be brought before him.--"Thou art young," +said he to his nephew; "thou hadst imprudently undertaken more than thou +couldst accomplish; and in consideration of thy youth and inexperience, +I pardon thee, but I will be revenged of thy counsellor." Then turning +himself to the Marabet, "Thou, art a rebel," said he. "Didst thou +imagine that thy sacred character, which thou hast abused against thy +(_Seed_) Lord or King would prevent him from punishing thee? Let us see +if thy sanctity will turn the edge of my sword."--In uttering these +words, he struck off the saint's head. + + + + + I N D E X. + + * * * * * + + +A. + +ABDELMELK, the prince, moral reflection on his expensive apparel, +79. Is sent to Tafilelt, 80. +_Abolition_ of Slavery depends on the Africans themselves, not on +our naval force or operations, 270. +_Abstinence_ experienced in the Sahara, 353. Means used to support +it. Effects of, 354. +_Abbuselah Woled_, Arabs of, 138. +_Abdrahaman ben Nassar_, bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Abdsalam_, prince, departs for Tafilelt, through Draha and Bled el +jereed, 149. +_Abeed_, 481. Seedi Bukaree, emperor's body guard, 481. +_Aboukir_, battle of, its consequence to muselmen, 101. +_Acephali_, 198. +_Africa_, plan for the discovery of, 201. +_African_ Association, Institution, &c. recommended to unite their +energies and operations to cultivate a commercial intercourse with +Africa, 228. The same recommended an a large scale, 249. African +Company, a plan for, 251. African Association, disastrous +expeditions of, 258. An union of the African interests beneficial, +271. African duplicity exemplified, 293. African Association might +find the son of Ali Bey an acquisition in promoting their views, 304. +_African_ names, how pronounced, 491. +_Agadeer_, or Santa Cruz, port of, opened to Dutch commerce, 55. +Apprehensions at Mogodor from the establishment of Santa Cruz, 56. +Conveniently situated for the markets of Sudan. Denominated the gate +of Sudan, 56. Port of, farmed by Muley Ismael, 57. Author's arrival +at, to open the port to European commerce. Wretched state of its +inhabitants. Honourable reception of the author there, 59. +Disgraceful custom abolished by the author, 60. Propensity to +commerce among the people of Suse. Sanctuary at the entrance of the +town. Privilege of riding in and out of the town established by the +author, for Christians of all denominations, 61. Commercial road +made by the author down the mountain to facilitate the shipment of +merchandise, 62. The spirit of the natives in working at it. Happy +influence of commerce and industry on the people. Portuguese tower +in the neighbourhood, 63. Description of the town, 64. Strength of, +and convenient situation for a depot, 65. Mitferes, depositaries for +water, 65. Attempt of the Danes to establish a colony in its +vicinage, at Agadeer Arba. Battery at, 66. Safe road for shipping. +Inhabitants friendly to the English, 67. Port of, shut by the +Emperor, and the garrison and merchants ordered to go to Marocco, +and from thence to quit the country or establish at Mogodor, 79. +Negociation for the port of, from the emperor, 246. +_Agricultural_ property, division of, 330. Agriculture, 339. +_Aisawie_, or charmers of serpents described, 430. +_Ait Attar_, or Attarites, an independent kabyl or clan, 311. +_Akka_, 7. Depot for camels, 248. +_Akkaba_, kaffilas, or caravans to Timbuctoo, where eligible to be +established, 263. +_Akkaba_, what, 345. +_Akkad_, its signification, 411. +_Alk Sudan_, what, 345. +_Altitude_ of the Atlas mountains, 93, 94. +_Ali Bey_, an account of; 297. Suspicions entertained respecting +him. His magnificent mode of living. Excites the suspicion of the +governor of Marocco, 300. He is prevented from visiting the Atlas +mountains, 301. He is favoured by the emperor, 302. Stratagem +practised to ascertain what religion he followed. Ordered to embark +at Laraich. Is separated from his wife. Her conduct. He predicts an +eclipse, 303. Passes for a learned man. Suspected to be an agent of +Bonaparte. His son resides at Fas, patronised by the Marabet Muley +Dris or Idris, 304. +_Algiers_, attack of, recommended to the Emperor of Marocco, 283. +_Almonds_, plantations of, 74. +_Ambassador_, British, the author's interview with. Great +honor shown to him on his entry into Tangier, 127. +_Amber_, manufactured imitation of, at Fas, 126. 216. +_Amaranites_, or Ait Amaran, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Amak_, the poet, his sumptuous style of living, 353. +_Amorites_, of the, 475. +------, or Ait Amor, 122. Descendants of the ancient Amorites, 124. +Anecdotes of, 193. +_Amusements_ of Europeans at Marocco, 89. +_Anachronism_ of the author misapplied, 442. +_Angola_, natives of, how converted to Christianity, 442. +_Anti-commercial_ system, 211. +_Antiperistasis_ of the Africans, how promoted, 230. +_Antimony_ mines, 331. +_Anecdote_ of an Emperor, 307. +_Anecdotes_, fragments, and notes, 276. +_Antithesis_, a favourite figure with the Arabs, 349. +_Apparel_ of the emperor, plain and simple, 79. +_Arabs_, cookery of, 64. Riches of, in what they consist, 247. Dance +and music, 140. Abstinence of, 141. Beauty of their women, 142. +Patriarchal life of, 143. 196. Arab royalty personified, 195. +Customs of, 244. Of Sahara, hostile to those who do not understand +their language, 262. The manners of, resemble those of the +patriarchal ages, 276. The study of their language and customs the +best comment on the Old Testament, 276. Their territory and origin, +328. Decay of science and arts among, 352. +------, sheiks of, hold themselves accountable for the property, +baggage, &c. of travellers, 233. +_Arabic_ document distributed by Mr. Bowdich in Africa, to the +natives, unintelligible, 492. +------, language, on the, 471. The language of Palestine resembles +that of West Barbary, 473. +----------, general utility of, a practical knowledge of in Africa, +258. On the language, 357. Arabian music, 318. Arabic grammar, +errors in Richardson's, 351. Pure Arabic, where spoken, 351. Arabian +modes of writing, 350, Errors committed by professors of, who have +not a practical knowledge of the language, 39. +----------, universality of the, 473. +------, translations of documents in, furnished to government by the +author, 407. +------, manuscripts, 3000 taken by the Spaniards, 520. +------, interpreter, the author officiates as, with the prince Muley +Teib, 192. +_Architecture_ described, 90. Gothic prevails, 271. +_Argan_ tree, and oil of, 510. +------, trees, oil of the, productive of leprosy if not properly +prepared, 91. +_Ashantee_, intercourse through, with Timbuctoo objectionable, and +why, 249. +_Atlas_, foot of, a productive country, 74. Table land in, and +produce of, 75. Narrow defile or pass, 76. Calculated altitude of, 93. +_Attarites_, or Ait Attar, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Audiences_ of the emperor, introductory, of business, of leave or +departure, 89. +_Author's_ intelligence respecting the interior of Africa, +considered valuable, 99. +------, travels in disguise, 136. +_Azamore_, 110. + +B. + +_Bab_ Sudan, 456. +_Badge_ of distinction worn by the lepers, 91. +_Bahar_ Segrer, the Mediterranean designated by that term, +489. +------, Sudan, corroborative testimony of its situation, 450, 451, 465. +----------, situation of, 436. +------, Kulla, explanation of the term, 444. Ditto of Bahar Sudan, 448. +------, El Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, Atlantic Ocean designated by +that name, 489. +------, El Abeed, not Bahar El Abiad, 517. +_Ba_ Scafeena, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, 450, 465. +----------, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, properly +called Bahar S'feena, 506. +_Bank_, in West Barbary, recommended, 237. +_Banks_, Sir Joseph's letter to Mr. Dickson, respecting the death of +Mungo Park, a passage in it confirmed only in Mr. Jackson's +translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's account of that traveller's +death, brought by Mr. Bowdich from Ashantee, but not in Mr. Saleme's +translation, 425. The author's translation, 409. +_Barbary_, conquered by the Romans, by the Vandals, by the Greeks, +by the Arabs, 458. Partial conquest of by the Portuguese and +Spaniards, 458. +--------, travelling in, 293. +_Bashaw_ of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Bedouins_, emigration of. Camel's milk, their food, 203. Domestic +looms of. Manufactures of. Custom of, 204. Mode of living. Extempore +poetry of, 205. Manners of, 206. +_Beef_, mode of preserving for food in the desert, 349. +_Berebbers_, their contest with the emperor, 308. Their territory +and language, 327. Names of their clans or tribes, 124. Specimen of +their language, 367. +_Bernou_, etymology of, 449. +_Bism illak, and El Ham'd u lillah_, signification of, 231. +_Bonaparte_, his system respecting Africa, 229. +_Bouska_, exhibition of that monstrous serpent, 451. +_Brimstone_ mines, 331. +_British_ public, address to, 253. +_Buffe_, Dr. his medical success at Marocco, 396. He is recommended +to his majesty George the Third, and his majesty is requested, by +the emperor, to return him to Gibraltar, to reside there as the +emperor's physician, 397. +_Buhellessa_, the pretender, described, 287. He is an adept in the +occult sciences, 288. He marches with 22,000 men to attack Delemy's +castle, 289. He is vanquished and beheaded, 290. His army dispersed, +his head and feet sent to the Prince Muley Abdsalam, at Santa Cruz, +290. The prince rewards the man who killed the usurper: the author +visits the field of battle, which resembled the plains of Waterloo, 291. +_Buregreg_ river, 113. +_Burkhardt_, anticipation respecting, 449. +_Butellise_, or night-blindness, described, 332. +--------, or nyctalopia, an ophthalmia that affects our seamen in +the Mediterranean, 433. +_Butter_, melted, food in the desert, 6. + +C. + +_Camel_, the ship of the desert, 247. +_Caffer_, or Khaffer, signification of, 345. +_Cairo_, derivation of the name, 326. +_Canary_ language resembles the shelluh of Atlas, 381. +_Caravans_ accumulate as they proceed to the confines of Sahara, 4. +_Cape_ of Good Hope, how to preserve, and to improve its produce, + 339, 340. +_Cape de Verd_, compared to Ceuta, 229. +_Ceuta_, preparation for the siege of, by the emperor Muley +Yezzid, 403. +_Christians_, harmony among, necessary to precede the conversion +of Africa, 131. +_Christian_ religion, how to propagate it in Africa, 224. +--------, impediments to its propagation, 225. +--------, the influence of its principles in Africa, 227. +_Civilisation_ of Africa, the necessary result of commerce, and the +only plan by which an expectation of the conversion of the natives +to Christianity can possibly be indulged, 263. +----------, of Africa, through commerce, the only effectual means of +abolishing the slave trade, 270. +_Civil_ war prevalent in West and in South Barbary, 279. +_Characteristic_ trait of Muhamedans, 308. +_Christians_, ordered by the emperor, on pain of death, to live +peaceably with one another, 520. +_Christ_ acknowledged by muselmen, 240. +_Circumcision_, when performed among Muhamedans, 345. +_Cobas_ described, 272. +_Colonial_ produce, consequences of the cultivation of, in Senegal +by the French, 228. +_Commercial_ intercourse with Africa favourable to the propagation +of Christianity, 227. +----------, Recommended on a large scale, 249. 251. 259. +_Commercial_ adventurer in Africa more likely to succeed than a +scientific one, 259. +_Commerce_, the key of Africa, 428. +_Communication_ with Africa to be effected by the medium of +commerce, 493. +_Connubial_ customs, 313. +_Copper_ mines, 331. +_Corn_, abundant at Dar el Beida and at Fedalla, 110. + Abundance of, in West Barbary, 208. 340. +_Couriers_, confidence reposed in them, 405. +_Coffee_ of Timbuctoo, 279. +_Consuls_ of the European powers, their residence, 130. +_Congo_, Africans of, how converted to the Christian faith, 442. +_Continental_ markets of Europe, contemplation how they will be +supplied with colonial produce, 229. +_Cuscusoe_, or more properly Kuskasoe, an excellent food, mode of +preparing it, 97. +_Customs_, Muhamedan, 230. +_Cuba_, slave-trade and produce of, increased, 270. +_Customs_ of the shelluhs of Idaultit, and laws of, remarkable, 313. +_Customs_, ceremonies at funerals, 465. + +D. + +_Dances_ of the Arabs described, music of, 140. 344. +_Dates_ abundant at Tafilelt, 80. +_Dar el Beida_, a corn country, 110. +_Dead_, bodies of the, never interred in towns or in the mosques, 272. + Ceremony of interment, 273. +_Deism_, 325. +_Deef Allah_, what, 341. +_Decay_ of science and the arts among the Arabs, 352. +_Delel_, i.e. auctioneer of slaves at Marocco, 95. +_Deleim_, woled Arabs, 138. +_Decked_ vessels in the interior of Africa, 449. +_Delemy_, sheik of the Deleim Arabs, 138. + Invites the author and his companion, Signor Andrea de Christo, + to pass the night at a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, 139. + Garden of, described, 147. + Renown of, 148. + A main pillar to the throne of Marocco, 148. + Receives an exhortation from the prince Abdsalam to give battle + to the usurper Buhellessa, 288. + Dextrous in the management of a horse, 289. +_Desert_, rate of travelling through, 470. +_Dews_ of the night, how they secure themselves against, + when sleeping, 154. +_Deef Allah_, custom of uttering, 233. +_Dimenet_, in the Atlas, attacked by the emperor, 305. +_Difference_ between the oriental and occidental Arabic alphabets, 351. +_Djinawa_, definition of the name, 507. +_Distances_ from port to port, along the coast, calculated, 132. +_Discovery_ of Africa, plan for, 200. +_Disgrace_ of inhospitality, 240. +_Doctors_, itinerant, their apparatus, 242. +_Douars_, or villages of tents, described, 328. +_Draha_, province of, 2. + Hire of camels from Tafilelt to, 2. + Dates, the names of the different species, 3. + Plantations of, 3. + Inhabitants of nearly black, 2. + Character of them, 2. 7. +_Drahim_, what, 3. +_Driss Zerone Muley_, renowned sanctuary of, 118. + Author's hospitable reception there, and admission to the + adytum, 119. +_Duplicity_ of the Africans exemplified, 293. 314. + +E. + +_East_ India trade, our, how likely to be affected by French +colonisation, in Senegal, 229. +_Ebekoaits_, or Ait Ebeko, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Effah el_, exhibition of that venomous serpent, 453. +_Elephants_, 8. +_Elegant_ females, 142. +_Emperor_ admits an ambassador without prostration, and why, 282. +--------, Yezzid is wounded, and dies, 285. + His body exhumated, 286. + Compared to his majesty George the Fourth, 287. +_Emperor_, anecdote of one, 307. + His contest with the Berebbers, 308. + Letter from him to his bashaw of Suse respecting English seamen + wrecked on the western coast of Africa, 364. + Titles of H.I.M., 382. + Style of addressing him, 382. +_Emperor's_ letters, 384, 387, 392, 394, 395, 398, 402, 403, 405. +----, plan of reconciling catholics with protestants, 520. +----, table, simplicity of the furniture of, 96. +----, audience of business of the, 98. + Audience of leave in the garden of the Nile, 98. +_Embassy_, British, to Marocco, result of, 128. +_Encroachments_ of the French anticipated on our colonial arkets, 230. +_Encyclopedia_ Britannica, misapplication of an anachronism, 442. + The editor of has adopted the author's opinion respecting + the course of the Niger, 447. +_Epistolary_ correspondence, 382. +_Epistolary_ diction used by Muhamedans, 404. +_Equity_, case of, 312. +_Esshume_, See _Shume_. +_Euphorbium_ plant, 74. +_European_ merchants at Mogador in danger of being decollated + by order of the emperor, on a charge of high-treason, 284. + +F. + +_Fas_, bankrupts, how treated at, 16. + Is the metropolis of the north, 87. + Talb Cadus, 87. +----, gold thread manufactured at, of a superior quality, 126. + Manufactures, various of, 126. +----, houses of the merchants of, described, and gardens at, 275. + Library at, 324. +_Fakeers_, or muselmen-saints excite hostility between Christians + and Muhamedans, 267. +_Fedalla_, corn country, 110. +_Fig-trees_, very large, 82. +_Food_, 316. + Food of the desert, 349. +----, of the Arabs similar to that used in the days of Abraham, 243. +_Fourban_, Comte de, anecdote of, 112, 113. +_Fragments_, notes, and anecdotes, 276. +_French_ army, landing of, in Egypt, 100. +_Fruits_ of all kinds abundant at Salee and Rabat, 114, 125. +_Fruga_, town of, 76, 78. + +G. + +_Game_, plentiful. Not sold in the public market. Custom + on shooting it, 338. + Strangled, what game so called, 338. +_Garrison_ of Tangier salutes the ambassador, 127. +_Garb el_, what, so called, 2. +_Garden_, imperial, the merchants encamped at Marocco in, 88. + Names and produce of, 81. +_Geography_ of Africa, on the, 474. +_George_ IV. compared to the Emperor Muley Yezzid, 287. +----, a patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Genoa_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Girwan ait_, or Girwanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Gold dust_, gold bars, wrought gold, 67. +----, and bars, consignment of, to Fas from Timbuctoo, 347. +_Gold thread_, superior manufactory of, at Fas, 215. +----, of a superior quality, manufactured at Fas, 126. +_Government_, offer to it, to discover the remedy for nyctalopia, 335. +_Great Britain_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Grored el_, or sandy desert of Mogodor, 83. +_Gum_ Sudan, 67. + Gum Barbary, 67. + Gum Euphorbium, 74. + Gum sandrac. Gum ammoniac, 67. +----, called in England, Turkey gum Arabic, 345. +_Gun-barrels_, manufacture of, 331. +_Gutta serena_, probable remedy for the cure of, 335, 336. +Galvanism, beneficial in, 336. + +H. + +_Hawking_, and hunting the boar, sports followed by princes, 338. +_Hassua el_, described, 242. +_Heirie_, Jackson's account of, confirmed by Colonel Fitzclarence, 489. +_Hel shual_, and Hel elkilleb, what, 198. + Hel ferdie, what, 200. +_Hemeralopia_, or night-blindness described, 332. +_Henna_, an herb with which the Arabian, Moorish, Shelluh, Berebber, + and Jewish women dye their feet, hands, and hair, and why, 512. +_Hire_ of camels from Akka to Santa Cruz, 346. +_Hogan's_ embassy to the emperor of Marocco, from queen Elizabeth, 489. +_Honey_ of Haha, 153. +_Hospitality_ of the Arabs, cultivators of west and south + Barbary, 131. 239. +----------, laws of, 340. Disinterested hospitality shown to the + author, 342. Inviolability of the laws of, among the Bedouin + Arabs, 343. +_Howara_, an Arab clan, take possession of Assouan in Egypt, 74. +-------, Arabs, hunting the boar with. They took the city + of Assouan in Egypt, about four centuries ago, 245. +_Houses_ at Marocco and elsewhere described, 274. +_Housa_, travelling there safe, 37. Great traffic on the Nile of +Sudan. Niles, how denominated, 39. Description of the country +adjacent to, 40. Situation and size of the palace of, and +description of the city of, 41. Government of; administration of +justice at, 42. Landed property, 43. Revenues of; army, 44. Trade, +45. Climate, zoology, diseases, religion, 48. Persons; dress, 49. +Buildings; manners, 50. Gold, 51. Limits of the Empire of; pottery; +Timbuctoo tributary to it, 53. Small-pox, inoculation for, 54. +_Hutton_, Catherine, her observations on an intercourse with + Africa, 264. +_Hulacu_, the Tartar, conqueror of the east. His letter to the +sultan of Aleppo, 399. +_Hypotheses_, various, respecting the Niger, 447. + +I. + +_Jackson's_ report corroborated, 467. +_Idautenan_, independence of, 147. Superior grapes of, 147. + The country described, 147. +_Idiaugomoron_, 151. +_Idaultit_, customs of, 313. +_Jedrie_, the African name for the small-pox in horses, mules, + asses, and oxen, 337. +_Jelabia,_ garment so called, described, 200. +_Jerf el suffer_, the yellow cliff, 109. +_Jew_, great present made by one for the privilege of wearing + the European costume, 297. +_Jews_, a distinct race from the Africans, rendered so from + their particular laws and customs, &c. 230. +------, funeral cry of, 464. Funeral ceremonies of, 235. +------, massacre of, at Algiers, 283. How estimated in the empire + of Marocco, 328. +_Jinnie_, manufacture of gold filligrane at, 126. +_Impediments_ to our knowledge of Africa. What they are, 266. +_Inactivity_, or want of vigilance severely reprehensible in the + officers of the Marocco government, 203. +_Incorrect_ orthography of African names, 468. +_Indigo_ plant, 74. +_Interest_ of money, 237. +_Intercourse_, commercial, with Africa, recommended to be adopted + on a grand national scale, 249. 263. +_Interest_ of the Arabs of Sahara; how it would be united with a + colony on the coast, 248. +_Information_ from Africans respecting Africa, not contemptible, 434. +_Insolvency_ laws, 343. 397. +_Intoxication_, various modes of, 329. +_Invoice_ from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, 345. Ditto from ditto to + Fas, 347. +_Invasion_ of the country by Christians, a tradition of, 225. +_Invocation_ for the author's welfare made by the Fakeers of the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, 119. +----------, for the welfare of the British embassy. +_Journey_, in disguise, at a critical period, 135. +_Journies_, viz. from Mogodor to Rabat; to Mequinas; to the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone; and to the ruins of Pharaoh; + through the country of Amorites to L'Araich and Tangier, 105. +_Irrigation_, wheel for, 13. +_Iron_ mines, 331. +_Isa_ Seedy ben, fascinators of serpents, 455. +_Isawie_ (fascinators of serpents) their performance, 453. +_Justice_, moral, 306. + +K. + +_Kaaba_, Muhamed's mausoleum, so called, 273. +_Kadder Khan_, king of Turkostan, a great support to science, 352. +_Kaffer_, the application of this term, 510. +------, (or Caffre) its signification, 267. 345. +_Kassar Kabeer el_, a beautiful country, 124. +_Kereb_, what, 5. +_Key_ of Africa is commerce, 428. +_Keyma_, its definition, 307. +_Khalif Delemys_, noble conduct to the prince Abdsalsm, 288. +_Kibla_, i. e. the tomb of Muhamed, 9. +_Kiffen_, signification of, 273. +_King_ George IV. compared to the late emperor of Marocco, Muley + Yezzid, 287. A patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Kitiwa ait_, or Kituvites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Koba_, or coba, 88. +_Koran_, called the beloved book. Etymology of the word, 318. + Incorrectly called the Alcoran, l'Alcoran, or il Alcorano, 351. + Written in good language, 353. + +L. + +_L'aad_ of the Arabs described, 289. +_Language_, etiquette of, at the court of Marocco, 315. +_Languages_ of Africa, 355. +_L'Araich_, forest of. Ferry of, 125. +_Laws_ of insolvency, 343. +_Lead_ mines, 331. Lead-ore mines, 331. +_Leather_ superior manufactory of, at Mequinas and Marocco, 217. + Articles used in the manufacture of leather, 218. +_Leghorn_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Leper's_ town or village near Marocco, 90. Mendicant lepers, 91. +_Library_ at Fas, 324. +_Lions_, country abounding in. Mode of destroying them. Preservation + against, 115. +_Liquorice_ root, abundant in Suse, 74. +_Locusts_, their incredible devastation described, 221. Mode of +collecting them, 222. Used as food; method of preparing them; much +esteemed as food, 222. Remarkable instance of these insects having +devoured every blade of grass south of the river Elkos, but not +north of that river, 223. +_Love_, Arabian definition of, 363. +_Loyalty_ of the sheiks of Suse, 288. Of Muhamedans, 326. +_Ludaia_ are not Ludama, 507. +_Lybia_ palus and sea of Sudan synonymous, 448. + +M. + +_Majesty_, His, George IV. patron of science and the arts, 429. + Compared to the late emperor Yezzid, 287. +_Mandinga_ language compared with the Arabic, 373. +_Manufactures_ of Fas; superior manufacture of gold-thread there, 214. +_Marabets_, what, 511. +_Marabet_, punishment of one, 524. +_Market_ called Soke Elkhummes, 94. +_Marocco_, emperor's march to, 73. Country abundant in +corn of a superior quality, 78. Reception at salutations +of the Moors, 78. Gate called Beb el Lushoir; its situation, +78. Garden of the Nile, an imperial garden, 79. +Tafilelt rose flourishes at Marocco; its powerful perfume; +otto of roses, 79. Roses; various flowers abundant; +Persian wheel in general use throughout the country, 82. +Divisions of the empire of, 86. The summer residence +of the emperor, 86. The metropolis of the south, 87. +Town or village of lepers at, 90. Policy of concealing +the appearance of wealth at, 95, Furniture of houses at, +95. Customs at, 95. All trades carried on at, 98. +--------, etiquete of the court of, 310, Emperor dispenses + with, 311. +_Marseilles_, its commerce indirectly with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Massacre_ of the Jews at Algiers, 283. +_Matamores_, what, 14. 195. +_Matra_, J.M., his excellency the British ambassador, treated + by the emperor like a prince, 128. +--------, his intelligence respecting vaccine pus, 337. +_Mauritannick_ writing, what, 351. +_Mazagan_, 109. Country of, and inhabitants described, 109. +_Mekka_ caravan, i. 4. +_Mendicant_ lepers, their exclamation, 91. +_Mensoria el_, 110. +_Mequinas_, city of the court-town; travelling, mode of; 88. + Imperial palace at, 117. Beauty of the ladies of, 118. +--------, superior leather and shoes made at, 98. +_Merchandize_, consignment of, from Timbuctoo to Fas, 348. +----------, the various, the produce of Sudan, 256. +_Messa_, visit to the port of, 145. Gold and silver mines of, 146. +_Minister's_ house at Marocco, a noble one, 90. +--------, suggestions recommended to their attention, 230. +_Mitfere_, or cistern, magnificent, at Mazagan, 109. +_Mitferes_, what, 90. Expediency of, 210. +--------, described, magazines for grain, 339. Custom observed when + opened, 339. +_Mogodor_, duties at, doubled, 74. Merchants of, present themselves + to the emperor, 87. +--------, duties at, reduced to the old standard through the + influence of Muley Abd el Melk ben Dris, 128. +--------, merchants in danger of being beheaded, 284. +_Monopodia_ of the ancients compared to a Moorish table, 281. +_Months_, or moons, Muhamedan, their names, 371. +_Money_, interest of, 237. +_Moors_, 1. +---------, their language and residence, 327. +_Moorish grace_ at meals, 96. +----------customs, 281. +_Morbeya_, river of, divides the northern from the southern division + of the empire, 86. +_'Msharrah Rummellah_, plains of, 124. + Described, 195. +_'Mtasseb_, what, 126. +_Muden_, what, 111. +_Muhamedan princes_, treaties with, 283. +--------------loyalty, 326. +--------------, their claims to hospitality, 341. +--------------customs, 349. +_Mules_, not used in the desert, 5. +_Muley_ Abdsalam's domain in the oasis of Ammon, 280. +--------Yezzid, the emperor, compared to his Majesty, George IV., 287. +---------Abdrahaman, anecdote of, 322. +---------Ismael, anecdote of, 323. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to captain Kirke at + Tangier, ambassador from Charles II,, dated A.D. 1682. 384. +---------Ismael, his letter to sir Cloudesly Shovel at Salee, 387. + Sir Cloudesly's answer, 389. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to queen Anne, 392. +---------Yezzid, emperor of Marocco, his letter to the Dutch + consul, 402. +---------Ismael's, emperor, gold coins at Timbuctoo, 522. +---------Hamed, son of Muley Moluck, an account of his expedition + to Timbuctoo, &c. 519. +---------Sidan, loses 3000 Arabic books, 520. + Muley El Arsheed, his expedition to Timbuctoo, 521. + Muley Hamed Dehebby, commonly called Deiby, his expedition + to Timbuctoo, 523. +_Mungo Park_ at Timbuctoo, 319. +_Murder_, punishment for, 343. +_Mushoir_, or place of audience, 89. +_Music_, and Arab dance, 141. + +N. + +_Nasari_, the application of the term, 510. +_Nassar_, Abdrahaman Ben, the bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Nations_, the respective costumes of, enjoined, 296. +_Negro_ languages, thirty-three different ones spoken, 370. +_Negroes_, opinion respecting, 466. Mental degradation of, + imputable, in some measure, to the cruel treatment of + them in the West India islands, 466. +_Neel_, a name applied to two rivers in Africa only, 507. +_Nile_, at Kabra, its width, 471. +----, the correct orthography in English is Neel, 79. +_Niger_, contemplated result of the discovery of its course and + termination, 99. Opinion concerning its course, 103. +_Nile el Kabeer_, Nile Assudan, synonymous with Niger, 201. +----, or Nile of Sudan, discharges itself in a lake, 449. +------, and the Nile, 515. Theory respecting, 515. The author's + opinion of this river never varied, 516. +------, or Neel el Abeed, discharges itself into the Mediterranean + sea at the Delta, in Egypt, 518. +_Nile_, this word is improperly spelled, 507. +_Niles_, anticipation of the confirmation of their junction, 434. +_Nile_ Abid, or Neel el Abeed, error respecting its situation, 435. +_Niles_, junction of, where supposed to take place, 444. Not + doubted in Africa, but supported by the general testimony + of the natives, 445. +_Nile_, the word applied only to two rivers in Africa, 447. +_Nishki_, manner of writing, 350. Synonymous with the Kufie. +_North_ African, or Sudan Company, plan for one, 251. +_Nyctalopia_, or night-blindness, 332. +----------, description of, and remedy, 432. Offer to discover the + remedy, 432. +----------, an ophthalmia, that affects our seamen in the + Mediterranean, 433. Offer to discover the remedy for to + government, 433. + +O. + +_Oasis_, western, 280. +_Oil_ of olives, 67. Oil organic, 91. +_Olive_ plantations of Ras el Wed, 77. +_Ophthalmia_, disorders at Marocco prevail among the Jews, 92. +_Opinions_ of the Africans respecting Jews, Christians, and + themselves, 315. +_Oranges_ of Rabat, superior in quality, and low in price, 114. +_Oranges_, 75. + Orange-trees, very large, 82. +_Ostrich's_ feathers, 67. +_Ostriches_ presented by the Emperor Muley Ismael to Queen Anne, 593. + +P. + +_Palace_, imperial, at Tafileet, magnificent, 80. +_Palaces_ described, 274. + Architecture of, 274. +_Partridges_, mode of hunting among the Arabs, 107. +_Park_, Mungo, at Timbuctoo, 319. +----, his arrival at Timbuctoo confirmed, 470. +----, the author's translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of that traveller's death, 409. + Mr. Abraham Saleme's translation of the same document, 413. +_Persian_, or Arabian wheel described, mode of irrigation, 147. +_Pharaoh_, ruins of, 80. 121. +_Philanthropists_ dig wells for public accommodation, 150. +_Physicians_ fly at the approach of the plague, 165. +_Piracy_, if the slave-trade were made piracy it would not + abolish the traffic, 270. +_Plague_, fragments respecting, 156. + Progress of, 157. + Decrease, 161. + The plague political, 164. + Emperor's minister attacked by it, writes to the British consul + for advice, 165. +----, supposed origin of, 166. + The author an eye-witness of it, and visited the infected, 167. + Progress of, 167. + Remarkable instance of a village in the neighbourhood of + Mogador being free from the epidemy thirty-four days + after it appeared at Mogador, although the communication + was open between the two places, 168. + Haha, destruction in, by the plague, 169. + Peculiarities of, 169. + Destruction of the plague in Suse, 169. + General depopulation caused by it, 170. + Consequences of, on the survivors, 171. + Gradations in society overturned by the plague, 171. + Emigrations from Sahara consequent to the plague, 172. + Symptoms, various of, 173. + Olive oil, external application of, infallible, supposed origin + of, 174. + Superstitious opinion respecting the plague, 175. + Author's precaution against, 177. + Fear, its effect in communicating the infection, 178. + Remedies used, 178. + How caught, 179. Plague cases of, 180. +_Plague_, avoided, by adhering to the principle of avoiding +personal contact and inhalation, 189. Olive oil, infallible +remedy for, 189. +------, 419. Remedy for, 423. +_Plough_, primitive, used by the Arabs, 511. +_Pomegranates_, 75. +_Policy_ of the court of Marocco, 211, 212, 280. +------, adopted by the emperor to secure the allegiance of + the Berebbers, 306. +------, of West Barbary, 320. +_Poculum amicitiae_, goblet compared to, 232. +_Political_ economy of the emperor, in not going to war with + Algiers, 283. +--------, deception, 309, 314. +_Portugal_, sovereign of, his zeal in converting the Africans to + the Christian doctrine, 443. +_Portuguese_ penetrated far into West Barbary, 324. +_Portfolio_, monthly miscellany, observations on, 464. +_Precision_, unfavourable to truth, according to Mungo Park's + annotator, 446. +_Present_ to the emperor, etiquette of delivering it, presentation + to, 89. +------, received from the emperor, 98. +_Prince_, Muley Teib, conduct of, to Dr. Bell. Satisfied with + the doctor's medicines, 197. +_Property_, agricultural division of, 330. +_Prognosticated_ prosperity from the prayers of benediction of + the marabats or fakeers of the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone. +_Prostration_ practised at the court of Marocco, 281. +_Protection_ among the Arabs a sacred duty when claimed, 343. +_Punishment_ for murder, 343. +_Pyramidical_ basis on which is founded the intelligence in + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c., 451. + +Q. + +_Quarterly_ journal, of literature, science, and the arts, + error of, 435, 438. +_Queen_ Elizabeth, embassy to the emperor of Marocco, 494. + +R. + +_Rabat_, arrival at, 110. Town described. Aqueduct. Mausoleum +of the Sultan Muhamed at, described. Battery + of, bomb-proof. Bastions. Roman spring at. Old Roman + town of Sheila at, described. Old Roman coins, 111. + Mosques, tower of Hassan, similar to one at Timbuctoo, + &c. described, 112. +_Rabat_ and Salee, abundant countries, 113. +_Religions_, of all kinds, tolerated at Timbuctoo. +_Repast_, or dinner, sent by the prince Muley Teib, 192. +_Retaliation_ for murder, an incumbent duty on tha individuals + of a family, 295. +_Revenge_ of the Shelluhs, described, 152. +--------, of the Shelluhs for murder rigidly pursued, 291. +_Richardson_, incorrect in calling the Arabic guttural letter, + _grain_, ghain, 492. +_Richardson's_ Arabic grammar, some errors in, 351. +_Riches_ of the Arabs, in what it consists, 247. +_Rivers_, in sandy districts, change their courses, 440. +_Robbery_, singular mode of, 116. +_Rontgen_, African traveller, death of, 425. + +S. + +_Santa Cruz_, the port of, delivered to the Dutch, 403. +--------, See _Agadeer_. +-------, or Agadeer, the key to Sudan, 268. +-------, invoice from Timbuctoo to, 345. +------- opened to Dutch commerce by the author, 436. +_Sanctuary_ of Muley Dris Zerone, 80. +_Saffy_, its road for shipping described, 108. + Situation and description of, 108. +_Sahara_, north part described, no water, 4. + South part described, 7. + Water carried in goat-skins, 5. + Sheiks of, independent, +--------, Arabs of, prefer sleeping in the open air, 155. +_Salee_, dungeon of, for Christian captives, 114. +------, and Rabat, the adjacent country productive, 113. +_Salutations_, peculiar character of their, 235. +_Saneet Urtemma_, a dangerous country, 110. +_Sand_ baths, 279. +_Science_ and the arts, decay of, among the Arabs, 352. +_Sebu_, river, situation of, 438. + +_Sejin Messa_, etymology of the name, vulgarly called + Segilmessa, 145. +_Senegambia_, 70. +_Serpents_, charmers of, described, 430. +--------, domestic, of Marocco, 213. +_Servants_ of the emperor, policy of, 280. + +_Shegar_, signification of, and misinterpretation, 441. +_Sheh_, the Arabic name for worm-seed, 5. +------, the plant designated, 510. +_Shella_, an old Roman town, 112. +_Shelluh_, revenge of, described, 152. +------, repast, described. Patriarchal cakes of, 153. + Customs of, 154. 313. +------, language, specimen of, 366. +_Shelluhs_, revenge and retaliation, 291. +------, their territory described, 327. +_Sheshawa_, plains of, 82. + Mountains of, strata of oyster-shells at the top of, 82. + River of, 82. +_Shume el_, the hot wind of Sahara so denominated, 5. +_Shoemaker_, an honourable trade, 98. +_Shovel_, Sir Cloudesley, his letter to the emperor of Marocco. +_Sigen Messa_, face of that country, 81. +_Silver_ mines of Elala, 218. +------, mine, 331. +_Siwah_, language of, similar to the Shelluh, 370. +_Slavery_, state of, in Africa, 219. + Cannot be abolished but by commerce, 269. +_Slaves_, mode of selling them, 95. +_Slave_ trade, not to be abolished by any naval force however + formidable, 269. +_South_ Africa, policy of constructing mitferes there, 339. +How that colony might be improved in the value of its + produce, 340. +----------, colony of, policy and expediency of building + mitferes there, 339. + How to improve that colony, 340. +_Storks_, abundance of, at Azamore, 110. +_Style_ used in addressing the emperor, 383. +_Subterraneous_ hordes, propensity to, 238. +_Sudan_, gum of, 67. +------, trade with, 277. +------, company, plan for one, 251. +------, command of the commerce of, how to be obtained, 67. +------, produce of, 67. +_Sugar_, figurative of friendship, 234. +_Sulphur_ mines, 331. +_Sultan_ Muhamed's letter to the European consuls, 394. + To the governor of Mogodor, 405. +--------, Soliman's letter to his majesty George III., 395. +_Superstitious_ tradition, 460. +_Suse_, province of, inaccessible to an invading army from + the north, 76. +_Synonymous_ words in sound, 362. + +T. + +_Tabia_ walls, what, 2. Mode of building them. +_Tafilelt_, 1. A rendezvous for caravans; kassars of; hire of +camels from Fas to; a country of princes, 2. Market +at, 2. Palace, imperial, magnificent at, 80. Dates +abundant at, 80. Magnificent plantations and extensive +forests of, 81. Faith and honour of the natives proverbial; +robberies unknown there, 81. +_Talleyrand_, his favourite African scheme, 229. +_Talh-tree_ defined, 510. +_Tangier_ garrison, salute to the British ambassador on his + entry there, 127. +_Tas_, what it is, 231. +_Tatta_, a depot for camels, 248. +_Tendaraman_, venomous spider described, 429. +_Tensift_, river of, 108. +_Tildie_, repast, Arab, at; Portuguese tower at, 63. Cookery + of the Arabs at, 64. +_Timbuctoo_, situation of, and charge of travelling to, 7. +City of; river close to it, 8. Population of; extent of; +caravanseras of; slaves at, 10. Houses; government, 11. +Revenue of, 12. Moors pay no duty at, but negroes +do, 14. Subject to Housa, 14. Army of; subsidies; +administration of justice at; punishments, 15. Good +police of, 16. Insolvent debtors at; slaves entitled to +freedom at; property, succession to and distribution of; +rational treatment of slaves at; wills not written, 18. +Laws of inheritance; marriage; rape; adultery, 19. +Trade and articles sold at, 20. Manufactures, 23. Measures, +23. Husbandry, 24. Sowing season; provisions, 25. +Animals; birds, 26. Fish; prices of various articles, 27. +Costume, 28. Diversions, 31. Time, measurement of; +Religion, 32. Diseases, 33. Manners and customs, 34. +Neighbouring nations, 35. +--------, opportunity of opening a trade with, why declined, 145. +--------, how likely to be made tributary to Great +Britain, 249. Circuitous commerce of, explained, 256. +Direct and eligible route to, through Sahara from the +shores of the Atlantic Ocean, 257. +--------, value of merchandize at, 260. Immense profit +actually made in, 261. Immense quantities of gold +to be procured from Sudan, 261. Goods entering the +city at the gate of the desert pay no duty, 263. Timbuctoo +coffee, 279. Invoice from, 345. 347. Letter from, 346. 348. + +_Timbuctoo_, Mungo Park at, 319. +----------, warehouses of, contain the manufactures, of India + and Europe, 427. + Communication with, plan for opening, 428. +----------, intelligence respecting, whence derived, 436. +----------, cotton manufacture, made in the city of, interwoven + with silk, of a chequered pattern, deposited in the + British Museum, 437. + Situation of, in respect to the Neel el abeed, 439. + Under the sovereignty of a negro prince, 441. + Fish at, resembling salmon, 469. +--------, first expedition to and conquest of, 519. +--------, second expedition to, 521. +--------, third expedition to, 523. +_Titles_ of emperor, 382. +_Togreda_, ceremony of, how performed, 231. +_Tomie_, or Sebah Biure, port of; the author visits it by the + prince's request, 138. + Arab dance and festivity in the neighbourhood of, 141. + Music of, 140. +_Trade_ with Sudan, 277. +_Travellers_, solitary or scientific, little expectations from, + 258. +_Travelling_ in Barbary, 293. +_Treaties_ with Muhamedan princes, 283. +_Troglodyte_, 319. + +U. + +_Uffran_, a depot for camels, 248. +_Uly_ and Ualy, material difference between these two terms, 350. +_Unity_ among Christians a necessary prelude to the conversion + of Africa. The several sects of Christians should + unite, instead of being divided, as an expedient measure + necessary to precede the conversion of Africa, 129. +_Union_ of waters between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 447. + +V. + +_Vaccination_, intelligence transmitted from West Barbary + instrumental in the propagation of, 337. + 23,134 lives saved by vaccination, 338. +_Vasco de Gama's_ observations on intercourse with Africa, 258. +_Vincent_, Lord St. his message to the Emperor of Marocco, 459. +_Vines_, the grapes of which are of an extraordinary size, 74. + +W. + +_Water_ communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 443. + This opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornmann, 444. +------, communication between Cairo and Timbuctoo, the + opinion respecting, receives additional confirmation, 517. +------, melons at Salee and Rabat peculiarly sweet, 114. +------, carried through the Sahara in goat's skins. +_Wah el_, what, 6. +_Wahs_ of Sahara, how supplied with fish, 257. + Western oasis, 280. +_Wangara_, jewel from, 103. +_Wassenah_, or Massenah, conjecture why not known at + Ashantee, 491. +_Wed el fees_, river of, 82. +_Whedinoon_, a depot for camels. +_Wheat_, superior at Marocco, 95. +------, a superior kind or quality, 125. +_Wild_ myrtle grows in the Sahara, 6. +_Wine_ Company recommended, 212. +_Woled Aisah_, encampment of Arabs. Produce of that country, 109. +_Wool_, exportation of, granted by the emperor. +_Woladia el_, an eligible place for a naval depot, 108. +_Woolja_, not Woolga, 109. +_Woled Abbusebah_, a whole clan of Arabs, banished from the + plains near Marocco, and plundered, killed or dispersed, 318. +_Woolo_, king of Timbuctoo, 484. +_Wormseed_, 74. +_Wrecked ships_, 277. + How treated, 278. + Wrecked sailors, 279. +_Wyk_, Sir Pieter, Swedish consul, his courier sent to the + author, 127. + +Y. + +_Yezzid Muley_, gives the port of Santa Cruz to the Dutch, 436. +----------, emperor of Marocco, compared to his majesty + George the Fourth, 287. + His letter to the Dutch consul, 402. + His letter to the governor of Mogador, giving to the Dutch the + port of Santa Cruz, 402. + +Z. + +_Zealand_, New, customs of, compared to those of the Jews, 236. +_Zeal_ of Mohamedans not sufficient to convert the negro nations + of Africa, 442. +_Zeef_, what it is, 231. +_Zemurh ait's_, or Zemurhites, a kabyl of Berebbers, 115. +_Zion ait's_, or Zianites, a tribe, or kabyl of Berebbers, 124. +_Ziltanait_, or Ziltanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Zimurh_ shelluh, Berebbers of, their character, 284. + + + + +THE END. + + +Printed by A. and K. Spottiswoode, +Printers-Street, London. + + + + +_Works by the same Author_. + +An account of the EMPIRE OF MAROCCO and the DISTRICTS OF SUSE AND +TAFILELT, compiled from Miscellaneous Observations made during a +long residence in, and various Journies through, these Countries. + +TO WHICH IS ADDED, + +An Account of SHIPWRECKS ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA, and an +Account of Timbuctoo, the great Emporium of Central Africa; +illustrated with ACCURATE MAPS and a variety of highly finished +PLATES. Third edition. _Considerably enlarged with new and +interesting matter_. + +Sold by Cadell and Davies, London; and by W. Blackwood, Edinburgh. + + * * * * * + + +_Preparing for the press_. + + +A GRAMMAR of the ARABIC LANGUAGE. + +No accurate Grammar of the Arabic Language has ever yet issued from +the British Press!--It is extraordinary that the many professors of +_that bold and figurative language of the East_, have never yet +favoured the public with such a desirable work.--An attempt will now +be made, by the above author, to supply in England this deficiency +in Oriental Literature. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Africa, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + +***** This file should be named 22631.txt or 22631.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/6/3/22631/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Renald Levesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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