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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/22631-0.txt b/22631-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b816f1a --- /dev/null +++ b/22631-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,16087 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Af, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa Territories in the Interior of Africa + +Author: Abd Salam Shabeeny + +Commentator: James Grey Jackson + +Release Date: September 16, 2007 [EBook #22631] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Rénald Lévesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France + + + + + + + + + + + AN ACCOUNT + OF + TIMBUCTOO AND HOUSA, + TERRITORIES IN THE INTERIOR OF + Africa, + + By: EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY; + + WITH + _NOTES, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY._ + TO WHICH IS ADDED, + LETTERS DESCRIPTIVE OF + TRAVELS THROUGH WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN'S OF ATLAS; + ALSO, + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, AND ANECDOTES; + SPECIMENS OF THE ARABIC EPISTOLARY STYLE, + &c. &c. + +"_L'Univers est une espèce de livre, dont on n'a lu que la première + page, quand on n'a vu que son pays._" LE COSMOPOLITE. + + By; JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + RESIDENT UPWARDS OF SIXTEEN YEARS IN SOUTH AND WEST BARBARY, + IN A DIPLOMATIC AND IN A COMMERCIAL CAPACITY. + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, + PATERNOSTER-ROW. + 1820. + + +Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, +Printers Street, London. + + + + + TO + HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY + GEORGE THE FOURTH, + _&c. &c. &c._ + THIS WORK + IS + WITH PERMISSION, + RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, + + BY + + HIS MAJESTY'S + MOST DUTIFUL SUBJECT + AND SERVANT, + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The person who communicated the following intelligence respecting +Timbuctoo and Housa, is a Muselman, and a native of Tetuan, whose father +and mother are personally known to Mr. Lucas, the British Consul. His +name is Asseed El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny. His account of himself is, +that at the age of fourteen years he accompanied his father to +Timbuctoo, from which town, after a residence of three years, he +proceeded to Housa; and after residing at the latter two years, he +returned to Timbuctoo, where he continued seven years, and then came +back to Tetuan. + +Being now in the twenty-seventh year of his age, he proceeded from +Tetuan as a pilgrim and merchant, with the caravan for Egypt to Mecca +and Medina, and on his return, established himself as a merchant at +Tetuan, his native place, from whence he embarked on board a vessel +bound for Hamburgh, in order to purchase linens and other merchandize +that were requisite for his commerce. + +On his return from Hamburgh in an English vessel, he was captured, and +carried prisoner to Ostend, by a ship manned by Englishmen, but under +Russian colours, the captain of which pretended that his Imperial +mistress was at war with all Muselmen. There he was released by the good +offices of the British consul, Sir John Peters[a], and embarked once +more in the same vessel, which, by the same mediation, was also +released; but as the captain either was or pretended to be afraid of a +second capture, El Hage Abd Salam was sent ashore at Dover, and is +now[b], by the orders of government, to take his passage on board a +king's ship that will sail in a few days. + +In the following communications, Mr. Beaufoy proposed the questions, and +Mr. Lucas was the interpreter. + +Shabeeny was two years on his journey from Tetuan to Mekka, before he +returned to Fas. He made some profit on his merchandise, which consisted +of haiks[c], red caps, and slippers, cochineal and saffron; the returns +were, fine Indian muslins[d] for turbans, raw silk, musk, and +_gebalia_[e], a fine perfume that resembles black paste. + +He made a great profit by his traffic at Timbuctoo and Housa; but, _he +says_, money gained among the Negroes[f] has not the blessing of God on +it, but vanishes away without benefit to the owner; but, acquired in a +journey to Mecca, proves fortunate, and becomes a permanent acquisition. + +On his return with his father from Mecca, they settled at Tetuan, and +often carried cattle, poultry, &c. to Gibraltar; his father passed the +last fifteen years of his life at Gibraltar, and died there about the +year 1793. He was born at Mequinas; his family is descended from the +tribe of Shabban[g], which possesses the country between Santa Cruz and +Wedinoon. They were entitled to the office of pitching the Emperor's +tent, and attending his person. They can raise 40,000 men, and they were +the first who accompanied Muley Hamed Dehebby[h] in his march to +Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote a: Confirmed by Sir John Peters.] + + [Footnote b: In the year 1795.] + + [Footnote c: The haiks are light cotton, woollen, or silk garments, + about five feet wide and four yards long, manufactured at Fas, as + are also the red caps which are generally made of the finest Tedla + wool, which is equal to the Spanish, and is the produce of the + province of that name, (for the situation of which see the map of + the empire of Marocco, facing page 55.) The slippers are also + manufactured from leather made from goat-skins, at Fas and at + Mequinas. The cochineal is imported from Spain, although the + opuntia, or the tree that nourishes the cochineal-fly, abounds in + many of the provinces of West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Suse. The saffron abounds in the Atlas mountains in Lower Suse, + and is used in most articles of food by the Muhamedans.] + + [Footnote d: Muls.] + + [Footnote e: _Gebalia_ resembles frankincense, or Gum Benjamin, and + is used for fumigations by the Africans.] + + [Footnote f: Being idolaters.] + + [Footnote g: Shâban is (probably) a tribe of the Howara Arabs, who + possess the beautiful plains and fine country situated between the + city of Terodant and the port of Santa Cruz. There is an emigration + of the Mograffra Arabs, who are in possession of the country + between Terodant and the port of Messa. The encampments of an + emigration of the Woled Abusebah (vulgarly called, in the maps, + _Labdessebas_) Arabs of Sahara, occupy a considerable district + between Tomie, on the coast, and Terodant. The coast from Messa to + Wedinoon is occupied by a trading race of Arabs and Shelluhs, who + have inter-married, called _Ait Bamaran_. These people are very + anxious to have a port opened in their country, and some sheiks + among them have assured me, that there is a peninsula on their + coast conveniently situated for a port. _This circumstance is well + deserving the attention of the maritime and commercial nations of + the world._] + + [Footnote h: The youngest son of the Emperor Muley Ismael conducted + the expedition here alluded to, about the year of Christ 1727. For + an account of which see the Appendix, page 523.] + +He considers himself now as settled at Tetuan, where he has a wife and +children. He left it about twelve months ago, with three friends, to go +to Hamburg (as before mentioned.) They were confined forty-seven days at +Ostend, were taken the second day of their voyage; the English captain +put them ashore at Dover against their inclination, and proceeded to +Gibraltar with their goods: this was in December, 1789. + +THE CONTINENT. + +The continent of Africa, the discovery of which has baffled the +enterprise of Europe, (unlike every other part of the habitable world,) +still remains, as it were, a sealed book, at least, if the book has been +opened, we have scarcely got beyond the title-page. + +Great merit is due to the enterprise of travellers. The good intention +of the African Association, in promoting scientific researches in this +continent, cannot (by the liberal) be doubted. But something more than +this is necessary to embark _successfully_ in this gigantic undertaking. +I never thought that the system of solitary travellers would produce any +beneficial result. The plan of the expedition of Major Peddie and +Captain Tuckie was still more objectionable than the solitary plan, and +I have reason to think, that no man possessing any personal knowledge of +Africa, ever entertained hopes of the success of those expeditions. +Twenty years ago I declared it as MY decided opinion, that the only way +to obtain a knowledge of this interesting continent, is through the +medium of commercial intercourse. The more our experience of the +successive failure of our African expeditions advances, the more +strongly am I confirmed in this opinion. If we are to succeed in this +great enterprise, we must step out of the beaten path--the road of +error, that leads to disappointment--the road that has been so fatal to +all our ill-concerted enterprises; we must shake off the rust of +precedent, and strike into a new path altogether. + +Do we not lack that _spirit of union_ so expedient and necessary to all +great enterprises? Is not the public good sacrificed to +self-aggrandisement and individual interest.--Let the African +Institution unite its funds to those of the African Association, and +co-operate with the efforts of that society! Let the African Company +also throw in their share of intelligence. The separated and sometimes +discordant interests of all these societies, if united, might effect +much. The _united_ efforts of such societies would do more in a year +towards the civilization of Africa, and the abolition of slavery, than +they will do in ten, unconnected as they now are. _Concordia parva res +crescunt_.--When each looks to particular interests, we cannot expect +the result to be the general good. + +It is probable that the magnificent enterprises of the Portuguese and +Spaniards, would, ere this, have colonised and converted to +Christianity, all the eligible spots of idolatrous Africa, if their +attention to this grand object had not been diverted by the discovery of +America, and their establishments in Brazil, Mexico, &c. + +I was established upwards of sixteen years in West and South Barbary; +territories that maintain an uninterrupted intercourse with all those +countries that Major Houghton, Hornemann, Park, Rontgen, Burckhardt, +Ritchie, and others have attempted to explore. I was diplomatic agent to +several maritime nations of Europe, which familiarised me with all ranks +of society in those countries. I had a perfect knowledge of the +commercial and travelling language of Africa, (the Arabic.) I +corresponded _myself_ with the Emperors, Princes, and Bashaws in this +language; my commercial connections were _very_ extensive, amongst all +the most respectable merchants who traded with Timbuctoo and other +countries of Sudan. My residence at Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in Suse, +afforded me eligible opportunities of procuring information respecting +the trade with Sudan, and the interior of Africa. A long residence in +the country, and extensive connections, enabled me to discriminate, and +to ascertain who were competent and who were not competent to give me +the information I required. I had opportunities at my leisure of +investigating the motives that any might have to deceive me; I had time +and leisure also to investigate their moral character, and to ascertain +the principles that regulated their respective conduct. Possessed of all +these sources of information, how could I fail of procuring correct and +authentic intelligence of the interior of Africa; yet my account of the +two Niles has been doubted by our fire-side critics, and the desultory +intelligence of other travellers, who certainly did not possess those +opportunities of procuring information that I did, has been substituted: +but, notwithstanding this unaccountable scepticism, my uncredited +account of the connection of the two Niles of Africa, continues daily to +receive additional confirmation from all the African travellers +themselves. And thus, TIME, (to use the words of a [j]learned and most +intelligent writer), "which is more obscure in its course than the Nile, +and in its termination than the Niger," is disclosing all these things: +so that I now begin to think that the before-mentioned critics will not +be able much longer to maintain their theoretical hypothesis.[k] + + [Footnote j: Vide the Rev. C. C. Colton's Lacon, sect. 587. p. 260, + 261.] + + [Footnote k: See various letters on Africa, in this work, p. 443.] + +The talents, the extraordinary prudence and forbearance, the knowledge +of the Arabic language, and other essential qualifications in an African +traveller, which the ever-to-be-lamented Burckhardt so eminently +possessed, gave me the greatest hopes of his success in his arduous +enterprise, until I discovered, when reading his Travels, that he was +_poor and despised, though a Muselman_. + +There is too much reason to apprehend that he was suspected, if not +discovered by the Muselmen, or he would not have been _secluded from +their meals_ and society: the Muselmen never (_sherik taam_) eat or +divide food with those they suspect of deception, nor do they ever +_refuse to partake of food with a Muselman_, unless they do suspect him +of treachery or deception; this principle prevails so universally among +them, that artful and designing people have practised as many deceptions +on the Bedouin under the cloak of hospitality, as are practised in +Christian countries under the cloak of religion! I cannot but suspect, +therefore, from the circumstance before recited, that the Muselmism of +Burckhardt was seriously suspected, and that his companions only waited +a convenient opportunity in the Sahara for executing their revenge on +him for the deception. + +The very favourable reception that my account of Marocco met with from +the British public; the many things therein stated, which are daily +gaining confirmation, although they were doubted at the period of their +publication, have contributed in no small degree, to the production of +the following sheets, in which I can conscientiously declare, that truth +has been my guide; I have never sacrificed it to ambition, vanity, +avarice, or any other passion. + +The learned, I am flattered to see, are now beginning to adopt my +orthography of African names; they have lately adopted _Timbuctoo_ for +the old and barbarous orthography of _Timbuctoo_; they have, however, +been upwards of ten years about it. In ten years more, I anticipate that +_Fez_ will be changed into _Fas_, and _Morocco_ into _Marocco_, for this +plain and uncontrovertible reason,--because they are so spelled in the +original language of the countries, of which they are the chief cities. +Since the publication of my account of Marocco, I have seen Arabic words +spelled various ways by the same author (I have committed the same error +myself); but in the following work I have adopted a plan to correct this +prevailing error in Oriental orthography, which, I think, ought to be +followed by every Oriental scholar, as the only correct way of +transcribing them in English; viz. by writing them exactly according to +the original Arabic orthography, substituting _gr_ (not _gh_, as +Richardson directs) for the Arabic guttural غ grain, and _kh_ +for the guttural _k_ or خ -- + +_Note._ We should be careful not to copy the orthography of Oriental or +African names from the French, which has too often been done, although +their pronunciation of European letters is very dissimilar from our own. + + + + + CONTENTS. + +_An Account of a Journey from Fas to Timbuctoo, performed about the year +1787, by El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny._ Page 1 + +Route to Timbuctoo.--Situation of the City.--Population.--Inns +or Caravanseras, called Fondaks.--Houses.--Government.--Revenue.--Army. +Administration of Justice.--Succession to Property.--Marriage.--Trade. +Manufactures.--Husbandry.--Provisions.--Animals.--Birds.--Fish.--Prices +of different Articles.--Dress.--Time.--Religion.--Diseases.--Manners +and Customs.--Neighbouring Nations. + +_Journey from Timbuctoo to Housa_ 37 + +The River Neel or Nile.--Housa.--Government.--Administration +of Justice--Landed Property,--Revenues.--Army.--Trade.--Climate. +Zoology.--Diseases.--Religion.--Persons.--Dress.--Buildings.--Manners. +Gold.--Limits of the Empire. + +_Letters, containing an Account of Journies through various Parts of +West and South Barbary, at different Periods, personally performed by +J.G. Jackson._ 55 + +LETTER I. (To James Willis, Esq., late British Consul for Senegambia.) +On the Opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the Province of +Suse; and of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid to the Dutch. _ibid._ + +LETTER II. (To the same.) The Author's Arrival at Agadeer or Santa +Cruz.--He opens the Port to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception +on landing there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading +Custom that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on +Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a Sanctuary +at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been considered Holy Ground, +and none but Muhamedans had ever before been permitted to enter the +Gates on Horseback. 58 + +LETTER III. (To the same.) The Author makes a Commercial Road down the +Mountain, to facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and +Liberality of the Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description +of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength +of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Agurem, and the Portuguese Spring and Tank +there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a Fort.--Eligibility of +the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial Depot to supply the whole +of the Interior of North Africa with East India and European +Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to Commerce and Industry, if +Opportunity offered. 62 + +LETTER IV. (To the same.) Command of the Commerce of Sudan. 67 + +LETTER V. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 69 + +LETTER VI. From the same to the same 71 + +LETTER VII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles +the Customs' Duties of Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abdelmelk, with +the Garrison and Merchants of Santa Cruz, ordered to go to the Court at +Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the Country +and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through which the Author +passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse from Marocco, +originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas.--Extensive +Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco +Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the +Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Prince Abdelmelk's magnificent +Apparel reprobated by the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz shut to the +Commerce of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Marocco.--The Prince +banished to the _Bled Shereef_, or Country of Princes; viz. Tafilelt, of +the Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the +Country.--Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity +of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (_Attar_ +being the Word signifying a Distillation.).--State of Oister Shells on +the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and Marocco, being +a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's Reception on the +Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or Sahara of Mogodor. 73 + +LETTER VIII. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 84 + +Extract of a Letter from His Excellency J.M. Matra, British Envoy to +Marocco, &c. to Mr. Jackson. 85 + +LETTER IX. (To James Willis, Esq.) Custom of visiting the Emperor on his +Arrival at Marocco.--Journey of the Merchants thither on that +Occasion.--No one enters the Imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode +of travelling.--The Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience +of the Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of +Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at +Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, East and +South of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of Eating.--Trades +or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of the Sultan.--Present +received from the Sultan. 86 + +LETTER X. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 99 + +LETTER XI. From the same to the same 101 + +LETTER XII. From the same to the same 103 + +LETTER XIII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Journey from Mogodor to Rabat, to +Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, +to the Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite Country to +L'Araich and Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as (_Tabuk_) +Cook, and Deeb as (_Mule Lukkerzana_) Tent-Master.--Exportation of Wool +granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the Plague.--Arabs, +their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations respecting the River +Tansift.--Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' Pass.--Description of Saffy, and +its Port or Road.--Woladia calculated to make a safe harbour.--Growth of +Tobacco.--Mazagan described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet +Urtemma a dangerous Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat +described.--Mausoleum of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of +Sheila, a Roman Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of +Rabat.--Productive Country about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to +Christians.--The Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait +Zimurh, notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country +disturbed with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City +and its Imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely +beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris or Idris +Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the Fakeers of +the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected from the English +in the Event of an Invasion by Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of +Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of +Pharaoh near the Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.-- + +The Descendants of the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these +People.--Various Tribes of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar +Kabeer.--Its Environs, a beautiful Country.--Forest of +L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as +Imitations of Amber.--Grand Entry of the British Ambassador into +Tangier.--Our Ignorance of African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of +the Provinces of his Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe. 105 + +LETTER XIV. (From His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson.) +Respecting the Result of the British Embassy to the Emperor of Marocco +at Old Fas. 128 + +LETTER XV. (To James Willis, Esq.) European Society at Tangier.--Sects +and Divisions among Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the +Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt upon Christians +themselves.--The Cause of it.--The Conversion of Africa should be +preceded by an Imitation of the divine Doctrine of Christ among +Christians themselves. 129 + +LETTER XVI. (To the same.) Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, +showing the Distances from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic +Ocean; useful to Persons travelling in that Country. 132 + +LETTER XVII. (To the same.) An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to +Saffy, during a Civil War, in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not +pass, owing to the Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and +Shedma.--Stratagem adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger +of being discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, +Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and Compliments +received from him on his having accomplished this perilous Journey. 134 + +LETTER XVIII. (To the same.) Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the +Khalif Delemy in Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in +Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, in +Suse.--Country infested with Rats.--Situation of Tomie.--Entertainment +at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to +entertain his guests.--Arabian Dance and Music.--Manner and Style of +Dancing.--Eulogium of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners +of the latter.--Their personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to +have a Commercial Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince +respecting Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various +Articles of Commerce.--Viceroy's Offer to build a House, and the +Duties.--Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold and Silver +Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and Grapes.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at Delemy's.--Elegant +Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince prepares to depart for +Tafilelt. 137 + +LETTER XIX. (To the same.) Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no +Travellers ventured to pass, owing to Civil War and Contention among the +Kabyles.--Moorish Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of +Travellers.--Travelled with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, +Baggage, or Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land.--Bitter +Effects of Revenge and Retaliation on the happiness of Society.--Origin +of these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with +Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among the +Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic Honey.--Ceremony at +Meals, and Mode of Eating.--Travelled all Night, and slept in the open +Air;--Method of avoiding the Night-dew, as practised by the +Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor. 150 + +_An Account of the Rise, Progress, and Decrease of the Plague that +ravaged West and South Barbary, in 1799, faithfully extracted, from +Letters written before and during its Existence, by the House of James +Jackson & Co., or by James G. Jackson, at Mogodor, to their +Correspondents in Europe._ 156 + +Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson. 163 + +An Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated West and +South Barbary in 1799 and 1800, to the Effects of which the Author was +an eye-witness. 166 + +Cases of Plague. 180 + +Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in West +Barbary, which was imported from Egypt; communicated by the Author to +the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the +Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, No. 15, +published October, 1819. 186 + +_Journey from Tangier to Rabat, through the Plains of Seboo, in Company +with Doctor Bell and the Prince Muley Teib and an Army of Cavalry_. 191 + +Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. Bell.--Description +of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, an +incomparably fine and productive Country.--The Cavalry of the +Amorites;--their unique Observations on Dr. Bell: their mean opinion of +his Art, because he could not cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on +Rafts of inflated Skins.--Spacious tent of Goat's Hair erected for the +Sheik, and appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the +magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian +Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these Plains.--Matamores, +what they are.--Mode of Reaping.-- + +The Prince presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his +Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and the +Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor. 191 + +_Of the excavated Residences of the Inhabitants of Atlas: the Acephali, +Hel Shoual, and Hel el Kitteb_. 198 + +The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System of +solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous Company; +beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the +Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indispensable to +the Conversion of the native Negroes to Christianity. + +_Cautions to be used in Travelling_. 202 + +Danger of Travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself +accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling +between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of +Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of Living among the Arabs; Food, Clothing, +domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs calculated by the +Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are good Figures, and have +personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; poetical Geniuses; Dancing and +Amusements; Musical Instruments; their Manners are courteous. + +_Abundance of Corn produced in West Barbary_. 208 + +Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of Duquella's +Weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or Subterranneous +Depositaries for Corn. + +_Domestic Serpents of Marocco_ 213 + +_Manufactures of Fas_. 214 + +Superior Manufactory of Gold Thread.--Imitation of precious +Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine. + +_On the State of Slavery in Muhamedan Africa_. 219 + +_The Plague of Locusts_. 221 + +Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance of +their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and not on the +other. + +_On the Influence of the great Principle of Christianity on the Moors_. + 224 + +Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent +it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial +Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to attend to +the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French colonizing Senegal, +and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating the Value of our West-India +Islands. + +_Interest of Money._ 237 + +Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital. + +_Plan for the gradual Civilisation of Africa._ 247 + +On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the Sahara and +Ashantee. + +_Prospectus of a Plan for forming a North African or Sudan Company: to +be instituted for the Purpose of establishing an extensive Commerce +with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the Interior Regions of +North Africa._ 251 + +Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the Trade +carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the +Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of North +Africa, and with other States of Sudan. 254 + +Letter from Vasco de Gama, in Elucidation of this Plan. 258 + +Letter on the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, in further Elucidation +of this Plan. 264 + +Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa. 266 + +_Architecture of the Mosques.--Funeral Ceremonies of the Moors,--Gardens +at Fas._ 271 + +_Fragments, Notes, and Anecdotes, illustrating the Nature and Character +of the Country._ 276 + +Introduction,--Trade with Sudan.--Wrecked Ships on the Coast, +278.--Wrecked Sailors.--Timbuctoo Coffee.--Sand Baths.--Civil War common +in West Barbary, 279.--Policy of the Servants of the Emperor.--El Wah El +Grarbee, or the Western Oasis, 280.--Prostration, the Etiquette of the +Court of Marocco, 281.--Massacre of the Jews, and Attack on +Algiers.--Treaties with Muhamedan Princes, 283.--Berebbers of Zimurh +Shelleh--The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation, +284.--The Body of the Emperor Muley Yezzid disinterred, 286. Shelluhs; +their Revenge and Retaliation, 291.--Travelling in Barbary.--Anecdote +displaying the African Character, and showing them to be now what they +were anciently, under Jugurtha, 293.--Every Nation is required to use +its own Costume, 296.--Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under +that Name, 297.--The Emperor's Attack on Dimenet, in the Atlas, +305.--Moral Justice, 306.--Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers +of Atlas.--Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans, 308.--Political +Deception, 309.--Etiquette of the Court of Marocco, 310.--Customs of the +Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas.--Connubial Customs, 313.--Political +Duplicity, 314.--Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco, +315.--Food, viz. Kuscasoe, Hassua, El Hasseeda, 317--The Woled +Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the Plains of Marocco, +317.--The Koran called the Beloved Book.--Arabian Music, +318.--Sigilmessa.--Mungo Park at Timbuctoo.--Troglodyte, 319,--Police of +West Barbary, 320.--Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed, an Anecdote of, +322,--Anecdote of Muley Ismael, 323.--Library at Fas, 324.--Deism, +325--Muhamedan Loyalty.--Cairo, 326.--Races of Men constituting the +Inhabitants of West and South Barbary, and that part of Bled el Jereed, +called Tafilelt and Sejin Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the +territories of the present Emperor of Marocco: the Moors--the +Berebbers--the Shelluhs, 327.--The Arabs--the Jews--Douars, +328.--Various Modes of Intoxication, 329.--Division of Agricultural +Property, 331.--Mines.--Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, +called by the Arabs _Butelleese_; and its Remedy, 332.--Vaccination, +336.--Game, 338.--Agriculture.--Mitferes, 339.--Laws of Hospitality, +340.--Punishment for Murder.--Insolvency Laws, 343.--Dances, +344.--Circumcision.--Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, +345.--Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, 346.--Invoice from +Timbuctoo to Fas, 347.--Translation of its accompanying Letter from +Timbuctoo, 348.--Food of the Desert,--Antithesis, a favourite Figure +with the Arabs, 349.--Arabian Modes of Writing, 350.--Decay of Science +and of Arts among the Arabs, 352.--Extraordinary Abstinence experienced +in the Sahara. 353 + +_Languages of Africa._ 355 + +Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the +Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the Mandinga +Language.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the Wah el +Grarbie, or Oasis of Ammon, and with the original Language of the Canary +Islands, and similitude of Customs. + +_Titles of the Emperor of Marocco._ 382 + +Style of addressing him. 383 + +_Specimens of Muhamedan Epistolatory Correspondence._ 384 + +LETTER I. Translation of a Letter from Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, +to Captain Kirke, at Tangier, Ambassador from King Charles the Second, +A.D. 1684. _ibid_ + +LETTER II. From the same to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, on board the Charles +Galley, off Sallee, A.D. 1684. 387 + +LETTER III, Captain Shovel's Answer, September 1684. 389 + +LETTER IV. Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter to +Queen Anne, A.D. 1710, from the Harl. MSS. 7525. 392 + +LETTER V. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben +Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident at +Tangier, delivered to each of them by the Bashaw of the Province of El +Grarb, A.D. 1788. 394 + +LETTER VI. From Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. +to His Majesty George the Third, literally translated by J.G. Jackson, +at the Request of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, after lying in the +Secretary of State's Office here for several Months, and being sent +ineffectually to the Universities, and after various Enquiries had been +made on Behalf of the Emperor to the Governor of Gibraltar, the Bashaw +of El Grarb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any Answer had +been returned to His Imperial Majesty. 395 + +LETTER VII. Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated +from the original Arabic, by J.G. Jackson. 398 + +LETTER VIII. From Hulaku the Tartar, Conqueror of the East, to Al Malek +Annasar, Sultan of Aleppo, A.D. 1259. 399 + +LETTER IX. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to +Webster Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their +High Mightinesses, the States General of the Seven United Provinces, +written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and previous to the +Negociation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz to +Dutch Commerce. 402 + +LETTER X. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid to the +Governor of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the +Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation. 402 + +LETTER XI. Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa in their +Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan +Faith, A.D. 1797. 404 + +LETTER XII. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed, +Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor, A.D. 1791, A.H. 1203. 405 + +_Doubts having been made, in the Daily Papers, concerning the Accuracy +of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of +Mungo Park's Death, the following Observations by the Author are laid +before the Public, in Elucidation of those Translations._ 406 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (The Author's +Translation). 409 + +Observation. 410 + +Extract from the Times, May 3, 1819.--Mungo Park. 412 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (Mr. Abraham +Saleme's Translation). 413 + +Letter to the Editor of the British Statesman, on the Errors in Mr. +Saleme's Translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of the Death of +Mungo Park. 415 + +_Letters respecting Africa, from J.G. Jackson and other._ 419 + +On the Plague. To James Willis, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. 419 + +Death of Mungo Park. 424 + +Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of Africa. + 425 + +Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called +Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in +Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication between +Timbuctoo and Egypt. 429 + +Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia or Night-blindness, +in a Letter addressed to the Editor of the Literary Panorama. 432 + +Letter to the same. 433 + +Critical Observations on Extracts from the Travels of Ali Bey and Robert +Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the Arts, +edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain. Vol. I. No. 2, p. 264. + 435 + +On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, or of +Sudan. 443 + +Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of +Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of +Marocco, &c. 446 + +Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names (by Catherine Hutton). + 455 + +Hints for the Civilization of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce, by +Vasco de Gama. 457 + +Plan for the Conquest of Algiers, by Vasco de Gama. 461 + +Letter from El Hage Hamed El Wangary, respecting a Review of Ali Bey's +Travels, in the "Portfolio," an American Periodical Work. 464 + +On the Negroes (by Vasco de Gama). 465 + +Cursory Observations on Lieutenant Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal of a +Route across India, through Egypt, to England. 467 + +On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Europe, Asia, and Africa. 471 + +Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an Account +of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors +that have been committed by European travellers on that Continent, from +their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the learned and the general +travelling Language of that interesting Part of the World. 474 + +Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa. 493 + +The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the sworne Esquires of Queen +Elizabeth, from Her Highness, to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Marocco, +and King of Fez and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. Written by Himselfe. 494 + +Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L., and E. 505 + +Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels in +Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D. by Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 508 + +Cursory Observations on African Names. 509 + +Letter to the Author from Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 513 + +On the Two Niles of Africa, or the Niger and the Nile. 514 + +APPENDIX. + +_Historical Fragments in Elucidation of the foregoing pages._ 519 + +First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo--Timbuctoo and Guago captured by +Muley Hamed (Son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk, or +Muley Moluck) in the Sixteenth Century (about the Year 1580). 519 + +A Library of 3000 Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards.--Contests +among Christians reprimanded. 520 + +Muley El Arsheed (a Second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan). 521 + +Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan. 523 + + + * * * * * + +DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. + + +Map of the Tracks across the Sahara to Timbuctoo, _to face_. 1 + +Map of the Empire of Marocco. 55 + + +[Illustration] + +1 + + AN + ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY + FROM + FAS TO TIMBUCTOO, + PERFORMED IN OR ABOUT THE YEAR 1787, A.C. + BY + _EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY_. + + + The Moors always prefer the spring and summer for travelling, + because they suffer very much from the severe cold of the mornings + in winter. They generally leave Fas in the beginning of April to + proceed to Timbuctoo, and they leave Timbuctoo to return to Fas in + the month of January. + + The Mecca caravan takes its departure from Fas the beginning of + March. + + In travelling, the Moors hire their camels from stage to stage. + Shabeeny's first stage was from Fas[1] to Tafilelt, which is + generally performed in about twenty days. + + [Footnote 1: This is a journey of crooked and rugged roads + across the Atlas mountains, where they often sojourn in spots + which invite the traveller, so that it takes a longer time to + perform it than the distance would indicate.] +2 + The hire of every camel was from ten to twelve ducats, at five + shillings sterling per ducat; as this route is through a very + mountainous country, and the travelling is very bad, the charges + were proportionally high; the weight which every camel carried was + between four and five quintals, the camels in this country being + strong and very large.[2] + + Tafilelt is the place of general meeting of all the merchants who + go to Timbuctoo.[3] + + The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns, but abounds in + fortresses with mud-walls[4], which the natives call El Kassar, and + which contain from three to four hundred families; in these + fortresses there is a public market (in Arabic, _soke_) every week, + where the inhabitants purchase provisions, &c. + + The natives of Tafilelt are descendants of the shereefs[5] or + princes of Marocco, and are therefore of the Imperial family. + + [Footnote 2: This charge of carriage by the camels from Fas to + Tafilelt, is equal to 55s., sterling per camel; to 1-1/2d. per + mile for each camel, and to one farthing and one third per + quintal of merchandise per mile.] + + [Footnote 3: That is for all who go from the Emperor of + Marocco's dominions, north of the river Morbeya, which is + called El Garb, or the North Western Division.] + + [Footnote 4: These mud walls are made in cases, and the mode of + erecting them is called _tabia_. See Jackson's Account of the + Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 298.] + + [Footnote 5: Hence it is called _Bled Shereef_, i.e. the + Country of Princes.] +3 + Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha[6], which he reached in six + days. The expense per camel was about six ducats, or thirty + shillings sterling. The district of Draha abounds in the small hard + date[7], which is very fine; from four to six drahems[8] (equal to + two to three shillings sterling) is the price of a camel load of + these dates. + + The province of Draha is larger than that of Tafilelt, its + circumference being about four or five days' journey. The + natives[9] of Draha are very dark, approaching to black, in their + complexion: this province abounds in fortresses, like those of + Tafilelt. + + [Footnote 6: A province at the foot of the mountains of Atlas, + south of Marocco, for which see the Map of West Barbary, in + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. p. 1.] + + [Footnote 7: This date is called by the natives _bouskree:_ it + contains a larger quantity of saccharine juice than any other + date. This province also produces a date called _bûtube_, which + is the best that grows, and is called _sultan de timmar_, i.e. + the king of dates. It is not used as an article of commerce, + but is sent as presents to the great, and costs nearly double + the price of those of any other quality: the quality mostly + used for foreign commerce, is the Tafilelt date, called _timmar + adamoh_, which is sold by the grocers in London. This species + is, however, considered very unwholesome food, and accordingly + is never eaten by the Filellies, or inhabitants of Tafilelt, + but is food for the camels. The district of Tafilelt abounds in + dates of all kinds: there are not less than thirty different + kinds; and the plantations of dates belonging to the princes of + Tafilelt are very extensive, insomuch that the annual produce + of one plantation is often sold for a thousand dollars, or 220£ + sterling. Half a dollar, or five drahems per camel load of + three quintals.] + + [Footnote 8: A drahem is a silver coin, ten of which are equal + to a Mexico dollar.] + + [Footnote 9: Their colour is darker than new copper, but not + black, It may be compared to the colour of _old_ mahogany, with + a black hue. The natives of Draha are proverbially stupid.] +4 + The caravans have not, as in the journey to Mecca, their sheiks[10] + or commanders. From Fas to Tafilelt they had no chief, but as there + are generally a few old, rich, and respectable men in the caravan, + its direction and government are committed to their care. + + [Footnote 10: The _sheik akkabar_, or chief of the accumulated + caravan, is generally a _shereef_ or prince.] + + From Tafilelt, which, as before observed, is the country of the + shereefs, they are guided by such of the trading shereefs as + accompany the caravan, and who have always great respect paid them, + till they arrive at Timbuctoo. The caravan increases as it proceeds + in its journey: at Fas it consisted of about thirty or forty; at + Draha, of from 300 to 400 camels. From Draha, at the distance of + three days' travelling, they found water by digging, and on the + next morning they entered the _Sahara_, which, for the first twenty + days is a plain sandy desert resembling the sea. In this desert, + when they pitch their tents at night, they are obliged frequently + to shake the sand from their tops, as they would otherwise be + overwhelmed before the morning. + + Some part of this desert is hard, and the camels do not sink deep + into it; in others the sand is very loose, which fatigues the +5 camels exceedingly. In travelling, the caravan is directed by the + stars at night, and by the sun in the day, and occasionally by the + smell of the earth, which they take up in their hands. For the + first twenty days after they enter this wilderness they have no + water; during this period, the caravan is obliged to carry water in + goat-skins[11], as not a drop is to be found by digging. On this + account, about a third part of the camels are employed in carrying + water, and even with this quantity the camels are often left for + three or four days without any. They never use mules in this part + of the journey; they neither find the _sheh_[12], nor the thorny + plant so common in the deserts of Africa. + + The country on the borders of this desert, to the right and left, + is inhabited by roving Arabs, at the distance of three or four days + from the track which the caravan pursues; and is said to be partly + plain, and in part hilly, with a little grass, and a few shrubs; + when the cattle of these Arabs have consumed what grows in one + spot, their owners remove to another. The caravan, though it + generally consisted of about 400 men well armed, seeks its route + through the most unfrequented part of the desert, from a dread of + the attacks of the Arabs. The hottest wind is that from the + east-south-east, and is called _Esshume_[13]; the coldest is that + which blows from the west-north-west. To alleviate the great + drought which travellers feel in the desert, they have recourse to + melted butter.[14] + + [Footnote 11: These goat-skins, when containing water, are + called by the Arabs _kereb_, or _ghireb_, plur. _kerba_, or + _ghirba_, sing.] + + [Footnote 12: The _sheh_ is the wormseed plant, the thorny + plant here alluded to is the wild myrtle.] + + [Footnote 13: _Esshume_, or the hot wind. For a particular + description of this extraordinary wind, see Jackson's Account + of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 283 + and 284.] + + [Footnote 14: This is old butter kept several years in a + _matamore_, or subterraneous cavern. It is called by the Arabs + of the desert, _bûdra_; and much virtue is ascribed to it when + it has attained a certain age: a small quantity swallowed, + quickly diffuses itself through the system.] + +6 After passing this desert of twenty days, they enter a country + which varies in its appearance, particular spots being fertile[15] + (called El Wah). Here they meet with _sederah_[16], a kind of wild + myrtle, in great quantities. This plant is called by the natives, + _gylan:_ its height is about that of a man; the camels feed upon + it. Between these shrubs there is a very small quantity of grass in + particular spots. In this part of the desert they meet with + extensive strata of stones: though the surface is generally sand, + yet at the depth of eight or ten inches, they meet with a yellow or + reddish earth; and about four feet deeper, with another kind of + earth of various colours, but most commonly of a brownish cast; +7 about five or six feet under this they find water, which springs + up very slowly, and at the bottom of this water you meet with a + light sand. Sometimes the water is sweetish, frequently brackish, + and generally warm. This last desert is about twenty days' journey, + and is a vast plain without any mountains. They meet with no Arabs + in this part, but the country on the right and left of their route, + at the distance of from three to eight days' journey, is inhabited + by Arabs, who are governed by their own (_sheiks_) chiefs, and are + perfectly independent. + + [Footnote 15: El Wah. For a full explanation of this term, see + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, 3d edition, p. + 283.] + + [Footnote 16: _Sederah_, thorny shrubs of all kinds are so + called.] + + From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of forty-three days, they meet + with no trees, except the _sederah_, no rivers, towns, or huts. + From Draha, which is a country abounding in camels, to Timbuctoo, + the charge per camel is from sixteen to twenty-one ducats.[17] That + so long a journey is performed at so small[18] an expense, is owing + to the abundance of camels in Draha. The caravan generally contains + from 300 to 400 men, of whom a great part prefer walking to the + uneasy motion of the camels. + + [Footnote 17: From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 11 ducats per + camel. + + Tafilelt to Draha, 6 do. 6 do. do. + + Draha to Timbuctoo, 48 do. 18-1/2 do. do. + + --- ---- + + 69 days, for 35-1/2 ducats per camel + load, which is about the rate of one farthing per quintal per + mile. This does not include the expense of camels for the + conveyance of merchants, servants, &c. or of provisions or + water, but merely of those carrying goods. A full account of + these caravans, and their mode of crossing the Sahara, will be + found in Jackson's Marocco, ch. 13.] + + [Footnote 18: The expense is now (A.C. 1818) smaller, as the + ducat, by a coinage which is depreciated, has fallen to 3s. 6d. + sterling.] +8 + SITUATION OF THE CITY OF TIMBUCTOO. + + On the east side of the city of Timbuctoo, there is a large forest, + in which are a great many elephants. The timber here is very large. + The trees on the outside of the forest are remarkable for having + two different colours; that side which is exposed to the morning + sun is black, and the opposite side is yellow. The body of the tree + has neither branches nor leaves, but the leaves, which are + remarkably large, grow upon the top only: so that one of these + trees appears, at a distance, like the mast and round top of a + ship. Shabeeny has seen trees in England much taller than these: + within the forest the trees are smaller than on its skirts. There + are no trees resembling these in the Emperor of Marocco's + dominions. They are of such a size that the largest cannot be + girded by two men. They bear a kind of berry about the size of a + walnut, in clusters consisting of from ten to twenty berries. + Shabeeny cannot say what is the extent of this forest, but it is + very large. Close to the town of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a + small rivulet in which the inhabitants wash their clothes, and + which is about two feet deep. It runs in the great forest on the + east, and does not communicate with the Nile, but is lost in the + sands west of the town. Its water is brackish; that of the Nile is +9 good and pleasant. The town of Timbuctoo is surrounded by a + mud-wall: the walls are built tabia-wise[19] as in Barbary, + viz. they make large wooden cases, which they fill with mud, and + when that dries they remove the cases higher up till they have + finished the wall. They never use stone or brick; they do not know + how to make bricks. The wall is about twelve feet high, and + sufficiently strong to defend the town against the wild Arabs, who + come frequently to demand money from them. It has three gates; one + called Bab Sahara, or the gate of the desert, on the north: + opposite to this, on the other side of the town, a second, called + Bab Neel, or the gate of the Nile: the third gate leads to the + forest on the east, and is called Beb El Kibla.[20] The gates are + hung on very large hinges, and when shut at night, are locked, as + in Barbary; and are farther secured by a large prop of wood placed + in the inside slopingly against them. There is a dry ditch, or + excavation, which circumscribes the town, (except at those places + which are opposite the gates,) about twelve feet deep, and too wide +10 for any man to leap it. The three gates of the town are shut + every evening soon after sun-set: they are made of folding doors, + of which there is only one pair. The doors are lined on the outside + with untanned hides of camels, and are so full of nails that no + hatchet can penetrate them; the front appears like one piece of + iron. + + [Footnote 19: The tabia walls are thus built: They put boards + on each side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the + ground, or attached to other stakes laid transversely across + the wall; the intermediate space is then filled with sand and + mud, and beat down with large wooden mallets, (as they beat the + terraces) till it becomes hard and compact; the cases are left + on for a day or two; they then take them off, and move them + higher up, repeating this operation till the wall is finished.] + + [Footnote 20: El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed: in most + African towns there is a Kibla-gate, which faces Medina in + Arabia.] + + POPULATION. + + The town is once and a half the size of Tetuan[21], and contains, + besides natives, about 10,000[22] of the people of Fas and Marocco. + The native inhabitants of the town of Timbuctoo may be computed at + 40,000, exclusive of slaves and foreigners. Many of the merchants + who visit Timbuctoo are so much attached to the place that they + cannot leave it, but continue there for life. The natives are all + blacks: almost every stranger marries a female of the town, who are + so beautiful that travellers often fall in love with them at first + sight. + + [Footnote 21: That is about four miles in circumference. Tetuan + contains 16,000 inhabitants; but, according to this account, + Timbuctoo contains 50,000, besides slaves, a population above + three times that of Tetuan: now, as the houses of Timbuctoo are + more spacious than those of Tetuan, it is to be apprehended + that Shabeeny has committed an error in describing the size of + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 22: Who go there for the purposes of trade.] + + INNS, OR CARAVANSERAS. + + When strangers arrive they deposit their merchandise in large + warehouses called fondacs; and hire as many rooms as they choose, +11 having stables for their camels, &c. in the same place. These + fondacs[23] are private property, and are called either by the + owner's name, or by that of the person who built them. The fondac, + in which Shabeeny and his father lived, had forty apartments for + men, exclusive of stables; twenty below and twenty above, the place + having two stories. The staircase was within the inclosure, and was + composed of rough boards; while he staid, the rooms were constantly + occupied by natives and strangers; they hired rooms for three + months, for which they paid thirty okiat, or fifteen shillings + sterling per month. These fondacs are called Woal[24] by the + negroes. The money was paid to the owner's agent, who always lives + in the fondac for this purpose, and to accommodate strangers with + provisions, &c. At their arrival, porters assisted them and + procured every thing they wanted; but when they were settled they + hired a man and a woman slave to cook and to clean their rooms, and + to do every menial office. Slaves are to be bought at all hours: + the slave-merchants keep a great number ready for sale. + + [Footnote 23: It is probable that Adams, the American sailor, + (if he ever was at Timbuctoo,) saw one of these fondacs that + belonged to the king, and mistook it for his palace.] + + [Footnote 24: Ten okiat, or drahems, make a Mexico dollar. The + name of the king of Timbuctoo, in 1800 A.C. was Woolo. Many of + the fondacs are rented of him.] + + HOUSES. + + In the houses little furniture is seen; the principal articles +12 (those of the kitchen excepted) are beds, mats on the floor, and + the carpets; which cover the whole room. The rooms are about + fourteen feet by ten; the kitchen and wash-house are generally to + the right and to the left of the passage; the necessary is next the + wash-house.[25] + + [Footnote 25: Being more convenient for the Muhamedan + ablutions.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + Timbuctoo is governed by a native black, who has the title of + sultan. He is tributary to the sultan of Housa, and is chosen by + the inhabitants of Timbuctoo, who write to the king of Housa for + his approbation. Upon the death of a sultan, his eldest son is most + commonly chosen. The son of a concubine cannot inherit the throne; + if the king has no lawful son (son of his wife) at his decease, the + people choose his successor from among his relations. The sultan + has only one lawful wife, but keeps many concubines: the wife has a + separate house for herself, children, and slaves. He has no + particular establishment for his concubines, but takes any girl he + likes from among his slaves. His wife has the principal management + of his house. The sultan's palace is built in a corner of the city, + on the east; it occupies a large extent of ground within an + inclosure, which has a gate. Within this square are many buildings; + some for the officers of state. The king often sits in the gate to + administer justice, and to converse with his friends. There is a +13 small garden within it, furnishing a few flowers and vegetables for + his table; there is also a well, from which the water is drawn by a + wheel.[26] Many female slaves are musicians. The king has several + sons, who are appointed to administer justice to the natives. + Except the king's relations, there are no nobles nor any privileged + class of men as in Barbary[27]: those of the blood-royal are much + respected. The officers of state are distinguished by titles like + those of Marocco; one that answers to an Alkaid, _i. e._ a captain + of 700, of 500, or of 100 men; another like that of Bashaw. The + king, if he does not choose to marry one of his own relations, + takes a wife from the family of the chiefs of his council; his + daughters marry among the great men. The queen-dowager has + generally an independent provision, but cannot marry. The + concubines of a deceased king cannot marry, but are handsomely + provided for by his successor. + + [Footnote 26: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a + mule or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a + trough as they pass round, which trough discharges the water + into the garden, and immerges the plants.] + + [Footnote 27: The privileged class of men in Barbary, are the + Fakeers; but no one in Barbary is noble but the King's + relations, who are denominated shereefs.] + + REVENUE. + + The revenue arises partly from land and partly from duties upon all + articles exposed to sale. The king has lands cultivated by farmers +14 who are obliged to supply his household and troops; the surplus + after the support of their own families is deposited in + matamores[28], these are stores to be used in time of scarcity: the + matamores are about six feet deep. The king often gives gold-dust, + slaves, &c. to his favorites, but the royal domains are never + given. Lands not very fruitful are common pastures. Moors pay no + duties; they say they will not bring goods if compelled to pay + duty, but the natives must pay; the duties are collected by the + king's officers, they are four per cent. upon each article _ad + valorem_. At the gate of the desert, goods brought by foreigners + pay nothing, but goods brought in by the gate of the Nile, (which + is the gate of the Negroes,) pay a tax: another part of the revenue + is two per cent, in kind on the produce of the land; but the people + of Barbary do not pay even this for what land they cultivate. The + property of those who die without heirs goes to the king, but when + a foreigner dies the king takes no part of his property; it is kept + for his relations. Timbuctoo being a frontier town remits no + revenue to Housa; the king of Housa sends money to Timbuctoo to pay + the garrison. + + [Footnote 28: Subterraneous excavations, or rooms in the form + of a cone, which have a small opening like a trap-door; when + these matamores are full of grain, they are shut, and the air + being excluded, the grain deposited in them will keep sound + twenty or thirty years. I have been in matamores in West and in + South Barbary, that would contain 1000 saas of wheat, or nearly + 2000 bushels Winchester measure. They are from six to sixteen + feet deep, and of various conical forms.] +15 + ARMY. + + The troops are paid by the king of Housa, and are armed with pikes, + swords, cutlasses, sabres, and muskets; the other natives use the + bow and arrow. At Timbuctoo, in time of war, there are about 12,000 + or 15,000 troops, 5000 of which receive constant daily pay in time + of peace, and are clothed every year; they are all infantry except + a few of the king's household. Sometimes he subsidises the friendly + Arabs, and makes occasional presents to their chiefs[29]; these + Arabs can furnish him with from 80,000 to 40,000 men. + + [Footnote 29: Of the Brabeesh clan; see the Map.] + + ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. + + Punishments are the bastinado, imprisonment, and fine. He + recollects but one prison. If a native stabs another, he is obliged + to attend the wounded man until he recovers; if he dies, the + offender is put to death. The offender must pay a daily allowance + to the wounded man for his support; if the wound appears dangerous, + the culprit is immediately imprisoned; if the wounded man recovers, + the offender must pay a fine and suffer the bastinado. There are + four capital punishments: beheading, hanging, strangling and + bastinadoing to death. Beheading is preferred; it is thus + performed: the criminal sits down, and a person behind gives him a + blow or push on the back or shoulder, which makes him turn his + head, and while his attention is thus employed, the executioner +16 strikes it off. Hanging and strangling are seldom used; and + bastinadoing to death, is only inflicted when the crime is highly + aggravated. Capital crimes are murder, robbery with violence, and + stealing cattle. Small offences, as stealing slaves and other + articles, are punished by the bastinado. The landed estates of + criminals are never forfeited.[30] The police is so good, that + merchants reside there in perfect safety. There are no exactions or + extortions practised by government, as in Barbary, nor even any + presents asked for the king. A debtor proving his inability, cannot + be molested[31]; but to the extent of his means he is always + liable; on refusing to pay, he may be imprisoned; but upon proving + his insolvency before the judge, he is discharged, though always + liable if he should have means at any future time. Watchmen patrole +17 in the night with their dogs; others are stationed in particular + places, as the market-place and the _kasserea_, or square, where + the merchants have their shops. Guards are placed at the king's + palace. Capital crimes are tried by the king: smaller offences by + inferior magistrates. The council sit with the king, every man + according to his rank; it consists of the principal officers of his + household; he asks _their_ opinion, but unless they are unanimous, + decides according to his own. There are always five or six judges + sitting in the king's court for the general administration of + justice. The king is understood to have no power of altering the + laws: if the council are unanimous, the king never decides against + them.[32] + + [Footnote 30: But go to the next heir.] + + [Footnote 31: This is the written Muhamedan law: the insolvent + is always liable, but cannot be arrested or imprisoned whilst + he remains insolvent, but continues always liable for the debt + if he afterwards becomes solvent. The present Emperor of + Marocco has lately published an edict. Hearing that his Jew + subjects in London frequently became bankrupts, or made + compositions with their creditors, has enacted, that all, + persons in his dominions who live by buying and selling, shall + pay their just debts; but if unable, their brethren, or + relations shall pay their creditors for them. If _they_ are + unable, the insolvent is to receive a beating every morning at + sunrise, to remind him of his defalcation. This law was enacted + at Fas in 1817, and since then, I am informed, no bankruptcy + has happened in that great commercial city.] + + [Footnote 32: This is a custom derived from Muhamedan + governments.] + + A slave is entirely at his master's disposal, who may put him to + death without trial; yet the slave may complain to the council of + ill-usage, and if the complaint be well-founded, his master is + ordered to sell him. The slaves are always foreign; a native cannot + be made a slave. There are three reasons for which a slave may be + entitled to freedom: _want of food, want of clothes, and want of + shoes_: an old slave is frequently set at liberty, and returns to + his own country. The children of slaves are the property of their + master. Slaves cannot marry without the consent of their masters. + The master of the female slave generally endeavours to buy the male + to whom she is attached.[33] + + [Footnote 33: Many conscientious Muhamedans, in purchasing + slaves, calculate how many years' service their purchase money + is equal to. Thus, if a man pays a servant twenty dollars + a-year for wages, and he gives 100 dollars for a slave, he + retains the slave five years, when, if his conduct has been + approved, he often discharges him from servitude. The period + for liberating slaves in this manner is however quite optional, + and admits of great latitude; neither is there any compulsion + in the master. I have known instances of a slave being + liberated after a few years of servitude; and his master's + confidence has been such that he has advanced him money to + trade with, and has allowed him to cross the desert to + Timbuctoo, waiting for the repayment of his money till his + return. This is often the treatment of Muhamedans to slaves! + how different from that practised by the Planters in the West + India Islands!!!] +18 + SUCCESSION TO PROPERTY. + + Upon the decease of a native, the first claim is that of his + creditors; the next is that of his widow, who is entitled to the + dower[34] promised by her husband to her father, if, not already + paid, and to one-eighth of the remainder; the rest is divided among + the children. A son's share is double that of a daughter. If they + agree, the land may be sold, if not, it must be divided as above. + Of lands and houses, nothing is sold till the children arrive at + the age of discretion; when each is entitled to his share, the rest + being unsold till the others are of age in turn. This age is not +19 fixed at so many years, but the period of discretion is determined + by the relations, upon oath, before a magistrate: there is hardly + any man that knows his own age. The father may dispose of his + property by will, as far as regards the property of his children, + but he cannot divest his wife of her rights; if a wife dies without + a will, her children succeed. Wills are not written; the guardian + appointed by the father takes care of the property of the deceased, + and employs in trade, and lends out the money for the benefit of + his children. Relations succeed if there are no children; and if + there are no relations, the king takes all but the wife's share. + The wife's relations are not considered as the husband's relations. + Children of concubines inherit equally with those of the wife. If a + man have two children by a concubine, she becomes free at his + death, otherwise she remains a slave. She is entitled, having + children, to an eighth of the property. + + [Footnote 34: The husband always stipulates to pay the father + of his wife a certain sum: this is the Muhamedan dower.] + + MARRIAGE. + + A man agrees to pay a certain price to the father of his wife, and + witnesses are called to support the proof of the contract: the girl + is sent home, and at night a feast is made by the husband for his + male friends; by the wife for her female friends. + + Rape is punished by death. Adultery is not punishable by the law, + nor is it a ground for divorce. A husband may always put away his +20 wife, but if without sufficient legal ground, he must pay her + stipulated dower. Abusive language is a sufficient ground of + divorce, but adultery is not. The dower is the price originally + agreed upon with the father; and if it has been already paid (which + it seldom is), she has no further claim upon the husband, though + put away without sufficient ground. Her clothes, jewels, &c. given + to her by her relations are her own property. A father generally + gives the daughter in jewels, &c. a present double the value of + that given him by the husband. A man can have but one wife, but may + keep concubines. Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by law. + The law says, "a woman's flesh is her own, she may do with it what + she pleases." Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his niece, + but not his daughter. + + The people of Timbuctoo are not circumcised. + + TRADE. + + Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the country of the blacks, + and even for Marocco and Alexandria. + + The principal articles of merchandise are tobacco, kameemas[35], + beads of all colours for necklaces, and cowries, which are bought +21 at Fas by the pound.[36] Small Dutch looking glasses, some of which + are convex, set in gilt paper frames. They carry neither swords, + muskets, nor knives, except such as are wanted in the caravan. At + the entrance of the desert they buy rock-salt[37] of the Arabs, who + bring it to them in loads ready packed, which they carry as an + article of trade. In their caravan there were about 500 camels, of + which about 150 or 200 were laden with salt. The camels carry less + of salt than of any other article, because (being rock-salt) it + wears their sides. They pay these Arabs from twenty to fifteen + ounces[38] of Barbary money per load. An ounce of Barbary is worth + about _6d._, and a ducat is worth about _5s._ sterling. They sell + this salt at Timbuctoo upon an average at 50 per cent. profit; it + is more profitable than linen. They take no oil from Barbary to + Timbuctoo as they are supplied from other places with fish-oil used + for lamps but not for food; they make soap with the oil. The + returns are made in gold-dust, slaves, ivory, and pepper; gold-dust + is preferred and is brought to Timbuctoo from Housa in small + leather bags. He bought one of these bags of gold-dust and pieces + of rings for 90 Mexican dollars, and sold it at Fas for 150. The + merchants bring their gold from Timbuctoo in the saddle-bags, in +22 small purses of different sizes one within the other. The bag which + Shabeeny purchased was bought at Housa, where it sells for seven or + eight ducats cheaper than at Timbuctoo. On articles from Marocco + they make from thirty to fifty per cent. clear profit. Cowries and + gold-dust are the medium of traffic. The shereefs and other + merchants generally sell their goods to some of the principal + native merchants, and immediately send off the slaves, taking their + gold-dust with them into other countries. The merchants residing at + Timbuctoo have agents or correspondents in other countries; and are + themselves agents in return. Timbuctoo is visited by merchants from + all the neighbouring black countries. Some of its inhabitants are + amazingly rich. The dress of common women has been often worth 1000 + dollars. A principal source of their wealth is lending gold-dust + and slaves at high interest to foreign merchants, which is repaid + by goods from Marocco and other countries, to which the gold-dust + and slaves are carried. They commonly trade in the public market, + but often send to the merchant or go to his house. Cowries in the + least damaged are bad coin, and go for less than those that are + perfect. There are no particular market days; the public market for + provisions is an open place fifty feet square, and is surrounded by + shops.[39] The Arabs sit down on their goods in the middle, till +23 they have sold them. The pound weight of Timbuctoo is about two + ounces heavier than the small pound of Barbary, which weighs twenty + Spanish dollars; they have also half and quarter pounds; by these + weights is sold milk, rice, butter, &c. as well as by the measure. + The weights are of wood or iron under the inspection of a + magistrate called in Barbary _m'tasseb, i.e._ inspector of weights + and measures, and if the weights are found deficient, he punishes + the offender immediately; they have also a quintal or cwt. They + have a wooden measure called a _m'hoad_[40], equal to the small + _m'hoad_ of Barbary, where a _m'hoad_ of wheat weighs about 24 lb. + Both the weights and measures are divided into 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and + 1/16. + + [Footnote 35: _Kameema_ is the Arabic word for the linen called + _plattilias_. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 36: Called, in Amsterdam, _Velt Spiegels_, and in + Timbuctoo, _Murrâih de juah_.] + + [Footnote 37: This salt is bought at Tishet, at Shangareen, and + at Arawan, in the south part of Sahara; for which see the Map + of Northern and Central Africa, in the new Supplement to the + Encyclopædia Britannica, Article _Africa_.] + + [Footnote 38: _Okia_ is the Arabic name for this piece of + money.] + + [Footnote 39: Similar to the corn-market at Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 40: The _m'hoad_ is no longer used in Barbary. There + is a _krube_, of which sixteen are equal to a _saa_, which, + when filled with good wheat, weighs 100 lbs. equal to 119 lbs. + English weight.] + + MANUFACTURES. + + The black natives are smiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, and + masons, but not weavers. The Arabs in the neighbourhood are + weavers, and make carpets resembling those of Fas and of Mesurata, + where they are called telisse[41]; they are of wool, from their own + sheep, and camels' hair. The bags for goods, and the tents, are of + goats' and camels' hair; there are no palmetto trees in that + country. Their thread[42], needles, scissors, &c. come from Fas: +24 most of their ploughs they buy of the Arabs near the town, who are + subject to it. Some are made in the town. These Arabs manufacture + iron from ore found in the country, and are good smiths. They make + iron bars of an excellent quality. They tan leather for soles of + shoes very well, but know nothing of dressing leather in oil: the + upper leather comes from Fas[43]; their wooden combs[44] and spoons + come from Barbary; they have none of ivory or horn. No lead is + brought from Barbary; he thinks they have lead of their own. The + best shoes are brought from Fas. + + [Footnote 41: _Telissa_, sing.; _Telisse_, plur.] + + [Footnote 42: To Fas they are brought from England through + Gibraltar and Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 43: Leather is also imported from Marocco, and from + Terodant in South Barbary.] + + [Footnote 44: Wooden combs are imported from Marseilles to + Mogodor.] + + HUSBANDRY. + + The country is well cultivated, except on the side of the desert. + They have rice, _el bishna_[45], and a corn which _they_ call + _allila_[46], but in Barbary it is called _drâh_: this requires + very rich ground. They make bread of _el bishna_: they have no + wheat or barley. Property is fenced by a bank and a ditch. Dews are + very heavy. Lands are watered by canals cut from the Nile; high + lands by wells, the water of which is raised by wheels[47] worked +25 by cattle, as in Egypt. They have violent thunder-storms in summer, + but no rains: the mornings and evenings, during winter, are cold; + the coldest wind is from the west, when it is as cold as at Fas. + The winter lasts about two months, though the weather is cool from + September to April. They begin to sow rice in August and September, + but they can sow it at any time, having water at hand: he saw some + sowing rice while others were reaping it. _El bishna_ and other + corn is sown before December. _El bishna_ is ripe in June and July; + as are beans. _Allila_ may be sown at all seasons; it requires + water only every eight or ten days. Their beans are like the small + Mazagan beans, and are sown in March; the stalk is short, but full + of pods. The _allila_ produces a small, white, flattish grain. + + [Footnote 45: _El Bishna_. This is the Arabic name for Indian + corn.] + + [Footnote 46: _Allila_, a species of millet.] + + [Footnote 47: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, as before + described in the note, page 13.] + + PROVISIONS. + + Rice is their principal food, but the rich have wheaten flour from + Fas[48], and make very fine bread, which is considered a luxury. + Bread is also made from the _allila_. They roast, boil, bake, and + stew, but make no _cuscasoe_. Their meals are breakfast, dinner, + and supper. They commonly breakfast about eight, dine about three, + and sup soon after sunset. They drink only water or milk with their + meals, have no palm wine or any fermented liquor; when they wish to +26 be exhilarated after dinner, they provide a plant of an + intoxicating quality called _el hashisha_[49], of which they take a + handful before a draught of water. + + [Footnote 48: And also from Marocco.] + + [Footnote 49: _El Hashisha_. This is the African hemp plant: it + is esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous + vacuity of mind which it produces on those who smoke it: unlike + the intoxication from wine, a fascinating stupor pervades the + mind, and the dreams are agreeable. The _kief_ is the flower + and seeds of the plant: it is a strong narcotic, so that those + who use it cannot do without it. For a further description of + this plant, see Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edit. p. 131 & + 132.] + + ANIMALS. + + Goats are very large, as big as the calves in England, and very + plentiful; sheep are also very large. Cattle are small; many are + oxen. Milk of camels and goats is preferred to that of cows. Horses + are small, and are principally fed upon camels' milk; they are of + the greyhound[50] shape, and will travel three days without rest. + They have dromedaries[51] which travel from Timbuctoo[52] to + Tafilelt in the short period of five or six days. + + [Footnote 50: These horses are the desert horse, or the + _shrubat er'reeh_. See Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edition, p. + 94. to 96.] + + [Footnote 51: These are _El Heirie_, (or _Erragual_), for a + particular description of which see Jackson's Marocco, p. 91. + to 93.] + + [Footnote 52: A distance of upwards of 1200 British miles.] +27 + BIRDS. + + They have common fowls, ostriches, and a bird larger than our + blackbird[53]; also storks, which latter are birds of passage, and + arrive in the spring and disappear at the approach of winter; + swallows, &c. + + [Footnote 53: The starling.] + + FISH. + + They have many extremely good in the Nile; one of the shape and + size of our salmon[54]; the largest of these are about four feet + long. They use lines and hooks brought from Barbary, and nets, like + our casting nets, made by themselves. They strike large fish with + spears and fish-gigs. + + [Footnote 54: The _shebbel_, a species of salmon, a very + delicate fish, but so rich that it is best roasted, which the + Arabs do in a superior manner.] + + PRICES OF DIFFERENT ARTICLES. + + Sheep from ten to sixteen cowries. Cowries[55] are much valued, and + form an ornament of head-dress even for the richest women; they are + highly valued as ornaments. Goats are cheaper than sheep; the best + from eight to twelve cowries. Fowls from four to six cowries each. + Antelopes are very scarce and dear. Camels from thirty to sixty + cowries, according to their size and condition. Ostriches, of which + vast numbers are brought to market, are very cheap; the + fore-feathers[56] are often carried to Tafilelt and Marocco, the +28 inferiors are thrown away. A good slave is worth ten, fifteen, or + twenty ducats of five shillings each; at Fas, they are worth from + sixty to a hundred ducats: females are the dearest. Slaves are most + valuable about twelve years old. They have fish-oil for lamps, but + use neither wax nor tallow for candles. The fish-oil is a great + article of trade, and is brought from the neighbourhood[57] of the + sea by Genawa[58] to Housa, and thence to Timbuctoo; dearer at + Timbuctoo than at Housa, and dearer at Housa than at Genawa. + + [Footnote 55: Cowries are called _El Uda_, and are sold in + Santa Cruz and in South Barbary, at twenty Mexico dollars per + quintal.] + + [Footnote 56: Called _Ujuh_.] + + [Footnote 57: Probably from the coast of Guinea, with which + Housa carries on an extensive trade.] + + [Footnote 58: _i.e._ Guinea; Genawa being the Arabic name for + the coast of Guinea.] + + DRESS. + + The sultan wears a white turban of very fine muslin, the ends of + which are embroidered with gold, and brought to the front; this +29 turban comes from Bengala.[59] He wears a loose white cotton shirt, + with sleeves long and wide, open at the breast; unlike that of the + Arabs, it reaches to the small of the leg; over this a _caftan_[60] + of red woollen cloth, of the same length; red is generally + esteemed. The shirt (_kumja_) is made at Timbuctoo, but the caftan + comes from Fas, ready made; over the caftan is worn a short cotton + waistcoat, striped white, red, and blue; this comes from Bengala, + and is called _juliba_.[61] The sleeves of the caftan are as wide + as those of the shirt; the breast of it is fastened with buttons, + in the Moorish style, but larger. The _juliba_ has sleeves as wide + as the caftan. When he is seated, all the sleeves are turned up + over the shoulder[62], so that his arms are bare, and the air is + admitted to his body. + + [Footnote 59: _i.e._ Bengal.] + + [Footnote 60: A _caftan_, or coat, with wide sleeves, no + collar, but that buttons all down before.] + + [Footnote 61: It is not the cotton cloth which comes from + Bengal that is named _Juliba_, but the fashion or the cut of + it.] + + [Footnote 62: The Moorish fashion.] + + Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of silk, like a pear; + one of the distinctions of royalty. He wears, also, a close red + skull-cap, like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one over each + shoulder, such as the Moors wear round the waist; they are rather + cords than sashes, and are very large; half a pound of silk is used + in one of them. The subjects wear but one; they are either red, + yellow, or blue, made at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, a sash + round the waist, also made at Fas; of these there are two + kinds,--one of leather, with a gold buckle in front, like those of + the soldiers in Barbary; the other of silk, like those of the + Moorish merchants. He wears (as do the subjects) breeches made in + the Moorish fashion, of cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of + woollen in winter, brought ready made from Fas. His shoes are + distinguished by a piece of red leather, in front of the leg, about + three inches wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and gold. +30 + When he sits in his apartment, he wears a dagger with a gold hilt, + which hangs on his right side: when he goes out, his attendants + carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance. + + His subjects dress in the same manner, excepting the distinctions + of royalty; viz. the pear, the sashes on the shoulders, and the + embroidered leather on the shoes. + + The sultana wears a caftan, open in front from top to bottom, under + this a slip of cotton like the kings, an Indian shawl over the + shoulders, which ties behind, and a silk handkerchief about her + head. Other women dress in the same manner. They wear no drawers. + The poorest women are always clothed. They never show their bosom. + The men and women wear ear-rings. The general expense of a woman's + dress is from two ducats to thirty.[63] Their shoes are red, and + are brought from Marocco.[64] Their arms and ankles are adorned + with bracelets. The poor have them of brass; the rich, of gold. The + rich ornament their heads with cowries. The poor have but one + bracelet on the leg, and one on the arm; the rich, two. They also + wear gold rings upon their fingers. They have no pearls or precious + stones. The women do not wear veils. + + [Footnote 63: Equal to from two to thirty Mexico dollars.] + + [Footnote 64: They are manufactured at Marocco.] +31 + DIVERSIONS. + + The king has 500 or 600 horses; his stables are in the inclosure; + the saddles have a peak before, but none behind. He frequently + hunts the antelope, wild ass, ostrich, and an animal, which, from + Shabeeny's description, appears to be the wild cow[65] of Africa. + The wild ass is very fleet, and when closely pursued kicks back the + earth and sand in the eyes of his pursuers. They have the finest + greyhounds in the world, with which they hunt only the + antelope[66]; for the dogs are not able to overtake the ostrich. + Shabeeny has often hunted with the king; any person may accompany + him. Sometimes he does not return for three or four days: he sets + out always after sunrise. Whatever is killed in the chace is + divided among the strangers and other company present; but those + animals which are taken alive are sent to the king's palace. He + goes to hunt towards the desert, and does not begin till distant + ten miles from the town. The antelopes are found in herds of from + thirty to sixty. He never saw an antelope, wild ass, or ostrich + alone, but generally in large droves. The ostriches, like the + storks, place centinels upon the watch: thirty yards are reckoned a + distance for a secure shot with the bow. The king always shoots on +32 horseback, as do many of his courtiers, sometimes with muskets, but + oftener with bows. The king takes a great many tents with him. + There are no lions, tigers, or wild boars near Timbuctoo. They play + at chess and draughts, and are very expert at those games: they + have no cards; but they have tumblers, jugglers, and + ventriloquists, whose voice appears to come from under the armpits. + He was much pleased with their music, of which they have + twenty-four different sorts. They have dances of different kinds, + some of which are very indecent. + + [Footnote 65: The _Aoudad_; for a particular description of + which, see Jackson's Marocco, Chapter V., Zoology, p. 84.] + + [Footnote 66: The Gazel, or Antelope, outruns at first the + greyhound; but after running about an hour the greyhound gains + on him.] + + TIME. + + They measure time[67] by days, weeks, lunar months, and lunar + years; yet few can ascertain their age. + + [Footnote 67: The hour is an indefinite term, and assimilates to + our expression of a good while; it is from half an hour by the dial + to six hours, and the difference is expressed by the word _wahad + saa kabeer_, a long hour; and _wahad saa sereer_, a little hour; + also by the elongation of the last syllable of the last word.] + + RELIGION. + + They have no temples, churches, or mosques, no regular worship or + sabbath; but once in three months they have a great festival, which + lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and is spent in eating + and drinking. He does not know the cause; but thinks it, perhaps, a + commemoration of the king's birth-day; no work is done. They +33 believe in a Supreme Being and another state of existence, and have + saints and men whom they revere as holy. Some of them are + sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary and Turkey; and though + physicians are numerous, they expect more effectual aid in sickness + from the prayers of the saints, especially in the rheumatism. Music + is employed to excite ecstasy in the saint, who, when in a state of + inspiration, tells (on the authority of some departed saint, + generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) what animal must be sacrificed + for the recovery of the patient: a white cock, a red cock, a hen, + an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal is then killed in + the presence of the sick, and dressed; the blood, feathers, and + bones are preserved in a shell and carried to some retired spot, + where they are covered and marked as a sacrifice. No salt or + seasoning is used in the meat, but incense is used previous to its + preparation. The sick man eats as much as he can of the meat, and + all present partake; the rice, or what else is dressed with it, + must be the produce of charitable contributions from others, not of + the house or family; and every contributor prays for the patient. + + DISEASES. + + The winds of the desert produce complaints in the stomach, cured by +34 medicine. They have professed surgeons and physicians. The bite of + a snake is cured by sucking the wound. They have the jlob[68] + violently, for which sulphur from Terodant in Suse is taken + internally and externally. This disorder is sometimes fatal. They + are afflicted also with fevers and agues. Bleeding is often + successful; the physicians prescribe also purgatives and emetics. + Ruptures are frequent and dangerous; seldom cured, and often fatal. + They tap for the dropsy. He never heard of the venereal disease + there. Head-aches and consumptions also prevail. The physicians[69] + collect herbs and use them in medicine. + + [Footnote 68: Probably the itch, called El Hack in Barbary.] + + [Footnote 69: The physicians have a very superior and general + knowledge of the virtues of herbs and plants.] + + MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. + + The nails and palms of the hands are stained red with henna[70], + cultivated there: the Arabs tatoo their hands and arms, but not the + people of Timbuctoo. These people are real negroes; they have a + slight mark on the face, sloping from the eye; the Foulans have a + horizontal mark; the Bambarrahees a wide gash from the forehead to + the chin. Tombs are raised over the dead; they are buried in a + winding-sheet and a coffin: the relations mourn over their graves, + and pronounce a panegyric on the dead. The men and women mix in +35 society, and visit together with the same freedom as in Europe. + They sleep on mattresses, with cotton sheets and a counterpane; the + married, in separate beds in the same room. They frequently bathe + the whole body, their smell would otherwise be offensive; they use + towels brought from India. At dinner they spread their mats and sit + as in Barbary. They smoke a great deal, but tobacco is dear; it is + the best article of trade. Poisoning is common; they get the poison + from the fangs of snakes, but, he says, most commonly from a part + of the body near the tail, by a kind of distillation. Physic, taken + immediately after the poison, may cure, but not always; if deferred + two or three days, the man must die: the poison is slow, wastes the + flesh, and produces a sallow, morbid appearance. It causes great + pain in the stomach, destroys the appetite, produces a consumption, + and kills in a longer or shorter time, according to the strength of + constitution. Some who have taken remedies, soon after the poison, + live 8 or 10 years; otherwise the poison kills in 4 or 5 days. + Physicians prescribe an emetic, the composition of which he does + not know. + + [Footnote 70: A decoction of the herb henna produces a deep + orange die. It is used generally by the females on their hands + and feet: it allays the violence of perspiration in the part to + which it is applied, and imparts a coolness.] + + NEIGHBOURING NATIONS. + + There are no Arabs between Timbuctoo and the Nile; they live on the +36 other side[71], and would not with impunity invade the lands of + these people, who are very populous, and could easily destroy any + army that should attempt to molest them. The lands are chiefly + private property. The Foulans are very beautiful. The Bambarrahs + have thick lips and wide nostrils. The king of Foulan is much + respected at Timbuctoo; his subjects are Muhamedans, but not + circumcised.[72] They cannot be made slaves at Timbuctoo; but the + Arabs steal their girls and sell them; not for slavery, but for + marriage. + + Girls are marriageable very young; sometimes they have children at + ten years old. + + [Footnote 71: North of the town.] + + [Footnote 72: All true Muhamedans are circumcised, so that they + must partake of Paganism if uncircumcised.] + +37 + + + JOURNEY + FROM + TIMBUCTOO TO HOUSA. + + Shabeeny, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Housa: and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached the + Nile in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, cultivated + country, abounding in trees, some of which are a kind of oak, + bearing a large acorn[73], much finer than those of Barbary, which + are sent as presents to Spain. Travelling is perfectly safe. They + embarked on the Nile in a large boat with one mast, a sail, and + oars; the current was not rapid: having a favourable wind, on his + return, he came back in as short a time as he went. The water was +38 very red and sweet.[74] The place where they embarked is called + Mushgreelia; here is a ferry, and opposite is a village. As the + current is slow, and they moored every night, they were eight or + ten days sailing down the stream to Housa. They had ten or twelve + men on board, and when it was calm, or the wind contrary, they + rowed; they steered with an oar, the boat having no rudder. He saw + a great many boats passing up and down the river; _there are more + boats_[75] _on this river between Mushgreelia and Housa than + between Rosetta and Cairo on the Nile of Egypt_. A great many + villages are on the banks. There are boats of the same form as + those of Tetuan and Tangiers, but much larger, built of planks, and + have ribs like those of Barbary; instead of pitch or tar, they are + caulked with a sort of red clay, or bole. The sail is of canvas of + flax (not cotton) brought from Barbary, originally from Holland; it + is square. They row like the Moors, going down the stream. + + [Footnote 73: Called El Belûte. These acorns are much prized by + the Muhamedans, and are considered a very wholesome fruit.] + + [Footnote 74: The word hellue, in Arabic, which signifies + literally, sweet, here implies that the water was pure and + good.] + + [Footnote 75: See Jackson's Marocco, page 314, 2d or 3d + edition.] + + There is a road by land from Timbuctoo to Housa, but on account of + the expense it is not used by merchants: Shabeeny believes it is + about 5 days' journey. If you go this way, you must cross the river + before you reach Housa. They landed at the port of Housa, distant a + day and a half from the town; their merchandise was carried from + this port on horses, asses, and horned cattle; the blacks dislike + camels; they say, "_These are the beasts that carry us into + slavery_." +39 + The country was rich and well cultivated; they have a plant bearing + a pod called mellochia, from which they make a thick vegetable + jelly.[76] There is no artificial road from Timbuctoo to the Nile; + near the river the soil is miry. Shabeeny travelled from Timbuctoo + to Housa in the hot weather when the Nile was nearly full; it + seldom falls much below the level of its banks; he travelled on + horseback from Timbuctoo to the river, and slept two nights upon + the road in the huts of the natives. One of the principal men in + the village leaves his hut to the travellers and gives them a + supper; in the mean time he goes to the hut of some friend, and in + the morning receives a small present for his hospitality.[77] + + [Footnote 76: The pod of the mellochia, which grows near Sallee + and Rabat, is of an elongated conical form, about two inches + long.] + + [Footnote 77: This is a common custom in West and South + Barbary; they always clear a tent for the travellers.] + + THE RIVER NEEL OR NILE. + + The Neel El Kebeer[78], (that is, the Great Nile,) like the Neel +40 Masser or Nile of Egypt, is fullest in the month of August, when it + overflows in some places where the banks are low; the water which + overflows is seldom above midleg; the banks are covered with reeds, + with which they make mats. Camels, sheep, goats, and horses, feed + upon the banks, but during the inundation are removed to the + uplands. The walls of the huts both within and without are cased + with wood to the height of about three feet, to preserve them from + the water; the wells have the best water after the swelling of the + river. The flood continues about ten days; the abundance of rice + depends on the quantity of land flooded. He always understood that + the Nile empties itself in the sea, the salt sea or the great + ocean. There is a village at the port of Housa where he landed, the + river here is much wider than where he embarked, and still wider at + Jinnie. He saw no river enter the Nile in the course of his voyage. + It much resembles the Nile of Egypt, gardens and lands are + irrigated from it. Its breadth is various; in some places he thinks + it narrower than the Thames at London, in others much wider; at the + landing place they slept in the hut of a native, and next morning + at sunrise set off for Housa, where they arrived in twelve hours + through a fine plain without hills; the country is much more + populous than between Timbuctoo and the Nile. Ferry boats are to be + had at several villages. + + [Footnote 78: Properly Enneel. El is the article; but when it + precedes a word beginning with a letter called a labial, it + takes the sound of that letter. This error is committed + throughout a book, lately published, entitled Specimens of + Arabic Poetry, by J.D. Carlyle, Professor of Arabic in the + University of Cambridge, 2d edition p. 53, Abdalsalam, instead + of Abdassalum; p. 59, Ebn Alrumi, instead of Ebn Arrumi; and p. + 65, Alnarhurwany, for Annarhurwany, &c. &c.] +41 + HOUSA. + + They did not see the town till they came within an hour from it, or + an hour and a half; it stands in a plain. Housa is south-east[79] + of Timbuctoo, a much larger city and nearly as large as London. He + lived there two years, but never saw the whole of it. It has no + walls; the houses are like those of Timbuctoo, and form irregular + lanes or streets like those of Fas or Marocco, wide enough for + camels to pass with their loads. The palace is much larger than + that of Timbuctoo; it is seven or eight miles in circumference and + surrounded by a wall; he remembers but four gates, but there may be + more; he thinks the number of guards at each gate is about 50; it + is in that part of the town most distant from the Nile. The houses + are dark coloured and flat roofed. He thinks Cairo is about + one-third larger than Housa; the streets are much wider than those + of Timbuctoo; the houses are covered with a kind of clay of + different colours but never white. They have no chalk or lime in + the country. + + [Footnote 79: Rather south-east by east.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + If the king has children, the eldest, if a man of sense and good + character, succeeds; otherwise, one of the others is elected. The +42 grandees of the court are the electors. If the eldest son be not + approved, they are not bound to elect him; he has, however, the + preference, and after him the other sons; but the choice of the + council must be unanimous, and if no person of the royal line be + the object of their choice, they may elect one of their own body. + The members of the council are appointed by the king; he chooses + them for their wisdom and integrity, without being limited to rank: + the person appointed cannot refuse obedience to the royal mandate. + The council consists of many hundreds. The governor who controls + the police lives in the centre of the town. + + THE ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE + + Is very similar to that of Timbuctoo, except that the king is + perfectly despotic; and though he consults his council, he decides + as he thinks proper. The governor administers justice in small + affairs; but, in important cases, he refers the parties to the king + and council, of which he is himself a member. No torture, is ever + inflicted. The governor employs a great number of officers of + police at a distance from the town. If robberies are committed, the + person robbed must apply to the chief of the district, who must + find or take into custody the offender, or becomes himself liable + to make compensation for the injury sustained.[80] + + [Footnote 80: This is also the law in West Barbary. When a + robbery is committed, the district where it has been committed + is made liable for double the amount; the half goes to the + person robbed, and the other half to the treasury. The good + effects of this law is admirable, insomuch that it has almost + annihilated robbery: but when one has actually been committed, + the energy and exertion of every individual is directed to + discover the depredator, and they seldom fail to discover him. + The fear of the penalty also makes them very cautious who they + admit among them; and very inquisitive respecting the character + and vocation of all, strangers in particular, who sojourn in + their country!!] +43 + LANDED PROPERTY. + + They have a class of men whose peculiar business it is to adjust + all disputes concerning land; the office is hereditary; _the + offender_ pays the compensation, and also the fees of these + officers; _the innocent_ pays nothing. When lands are bought, these + officers measure them. There is a plant resembling a large onion, + which serves as a land-mark; if these are removed, (which cannot be + easily done without discovery) reference is had to the records of + the sale, of which every owner is in possession; they express the + sum received; the quantity, situation, and limits of the land. + These are given by the seller, and are written in the language and + character of the country, very different from the Arabic. The same + letters are used at Timbuctoo. They write from right to left. The + character[81] was perfectly unintelligible to Shabeeny. Children, +44 whose father is dead, succeed to the same portion of their + grandfather's property as their father would, had _he_ out outlived + _his_ father, though there are other issue of the grandfather. The + rules of succession are the same as at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 81: Possibly the ancient Carthaginian character.] + + Persons of great landed property, of which there are many, employ + agents or stewards; they let the lands, and the rents are paid + sometimes in kind, and sometimes in gold-dust and cowries. Houses + are let by the month. He paid four Mexico dollars per month; but a + native would not have paid above two for the same house. A man who + has five Mexico dollars[82] a month, is esteemed in easy + circumstances; those, however, who have 30 or 40 per month, are + common. + + [Footnote 82: Ten dollars worth of rice is sufficient for the + daily food of a man a twelve-month.] + + REVENUES. + + The king has 2 per cent. on the produce of the land. The revenues + arise from the same sources as at Timbuctoo, but are much larger. + Foreign merchants pay nothing, as the Housaeens think they ought to + be encouraged. The revenue is supposed to be immense. + + ARMY. + + He cannot precisely tell the number of troops, but believes the + king can raise 70,000 to 80,000 horse, and 100,000 foot. The horses +45 are poor and small, except a few kept for the king's own use. He + has no well-bred mares. Their arms are the same as at Timbuctoo; + the muskets, which are matchlocks, are made in the country. They + are very dexterous in throwing the lance. Gunpowder is also + manufactured there; the brimstone is brought from Fas; the charcoal + they make; and he believes they prepare the nitre.[83] Their arrows + are feathered and barbed; the bows are all cross-bows, with + triggers; the arrows, 20 to 40 in a quiver, are made of hides, and + hang on the left side. The king never goes to war in person. The + soldiers have a peculiar dress; their heads are bare; but the + officers have a kind of turban; the soldiers have a shirt of coarse + white cotton, and yellow slippers; those of the officers are red. + Some have turbans adorned with gold. They carry their powder in a + leather purse; the match, made of cotton, is wound round the gun; + they have flint and steel in a pouch, and also spare matches. + + [Footnote 83: The saltpetre and brimstone are probably derived + from Terodant in Suse, where both abound.] + + THE TRADE + + Is similar to that of Timbuctoo; in both places foreign merchants + always employ agents, or brokers, to trade to advantage; a man + should reside sometime before he begins. Ivory is sold by the + tooth; he bought one, weighing 200 lb. for five ducats (1_£. 5s._); + he sold it in Marocco for 25 ducats, per 100 lb.; it is now[84] + worth 60. + + [Footnote 84: A.D. 1795.] +46 + The king cannot make any of his subjects slaves. They get their + cotton from Bengala.[85] They have no salt, it comes from a great + distance, and is very dear. Goods find a much better market at + Housa than at Timbuctoo. There are merchants at Housa from Timboo, + Bornoo, Moshu, and India; the travelling merchants do not regard + distance. From Timboo and other great towns he has heard, and from + his own knowledge can venture to assert, that they bring East India + goods. Gold-dust, ivory, and slaves are the principal returns from + Housa. The people of Housa have slaves from Bornoo, Bambarra, + Jinnie, Beni Killeb[86] (sons of dogs), and Beni Aree (sons of the + naked); they are, generally, prisoners of war, though many are + stolen when young, by people who make a trade of this practice. The + laws are very severe against this crime; it requires, therefore, + great cunning and duplicity; no men of any property are ever guilty + of it. The slave stealers take the children by night out of the + town, and sell them to some peasant, who sells them to a third, and + so from hand to hand, till they are carried out of the country; if + this practice did not exist, there would be few slaves for the + Barbary market. Beyond the age of fourteen or fifteen, a slave is +47 hardly saleable in Barbary. Few merchants bring to Housa above two + or three slaves at a time; but there are great numbers of merchants + continually bringing them. His own slave was a native of Bambarra, + and was brought very young to Timbuctoo. Slaves are generally + stupid; but his, on the contrary, was very sensible; he understood + several languages, particularly Arabic; he bought him as an + interpreter; he would not have sold publicly for above twenty + ducats; but he gave 50 for him; his master parting with him very + reluctantly. He bought two female slaves at Housa, at 15 ducats + each.[87] The value of slaves has since then doubled in Barbary; he + does not know the present[88] price at Timbuctoo. At Timbuctoo not + ten slaves in the hundred bought there, are females; when bought, + the merchant shuts them up in a private room, but not in chains, + and places a centinel at the door: when the confidence of any of + them is supposed to be gained, they are employed as centinels. + Housa having a great trade, is much frequented by people from + Bambarra, Foulan, Jinnie, and the interior countries. + + Manufactures and husbandry are similar to those at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 85: Bengal, or the East Indies.] + + [Footnote 86: Properly Ben Ekkilleb, or Hel Ekkileb, i.e. the + canine-race. These are described to be swift of foot and low of + stature, having a language peculiar to themselves.] + + [Footnote 87: About the 1790th year of the Christian era.] + + [Footnote 88: In the year 1795.] + + CLIMATE. + + The hot winds blow from the east; the summer is hotter than in +48 Marocco, and hotter at Timbuctoo than at Housa. The cold winds are + from the west: the morning fog is great. He never saw it rain at + Housa, in the course of two years; he says it never rains there. + Scarcity is never known. A considerable part of their provisions is + brought from the banks of the Nile; the river, when overflowing, + never reaches above half way from its common channel towards Housa. + They have excellent wells in their houses, but no river near the + town. + + ZOOLOGY. + + He saw no camels at Housa, but heard, they use them to fetch gold, + and cover their legs with leather, to guard them from snakes. They + have dogs and cats, but no scorpions or snakes in their houses. + Lice, bugs, and fleas abound. He saw no wild animals or fowl in the + neighbourhood of Housa. + + DISEASES. + + Physicians agree with the patient for his cure. No cure no pay. The + prevailing diseases are colds and coughs. + + RELIGION. + + The same as at Timbuctoo; the poorer classes, as in most countries, + have many superstitious notions of spirits, good and bad, and are + alarmed by dreams, particularly, the slaves, some of whom cannot + retain their urine in the night, as he thinks, from fear of +49 spirits, they take them often upon trial when they buy them, and if + they have this defect, a considerable deduction is made in the + price. A man possessed by a good spirit is supposed to be safe + amidst 10,000 shot. A man guilty of a crime, who in the opinion of + the judge is possessed by an evil spirit, is not punished! He never + heard of a rich man being possessed. + + PERSONS. + + They are of various sizes, but the tallest man he ever saw was at + Housa. The city being very large, he seldom had an opportunity of + seeing the king, as at Timbuctoo. He saw him but twice in two + years, and only in the courts of justice; he was remarkable for the + width of his nostrils, the redness of his eyes, the smoothness of + his skin, and the fine tint of his perfectly black complexion. + + DRESS. + + Like that of Timbuctoo, their turbans are of the finest muslin. The + sleeves of the soldiers are small, those of the merchants wide. The + former have short breeches, the latter long. The officers dress + like the merchants, each according to his circumstances. The caftan + is of silk, in summer, brought from India; instead of the silk + cords worn by the king of Timbuctoo, the king of Housa wears two + silk sashes, three fingers broad, one on each shoulder; they are +50 richly adorned with gold; in one hangs his dagger, and when he + rides out, his sword in the other; he wears not the silk pear in + his turban, as does the king of Timbuctoo. The front of his turban + is embroidered with gold. + + BUILDINGS. + + The houses are like those at Timbuctoo, but many much larger. They + have no wind or water-mills, but they have stone mills, turned by + horses. + + MANNERS. + + They never bow. An inferior kisses the hand of a superior; to an + equal he nods the head, gives him his hand and asks him how he + does. The women do the same. + + The general body are honest and benevolent, the lower class is + addicted to thieving. They are very careful of children, to prevent + their being stolen. Snakes do not frequent cultivated lands, so + that animals are not there in danger from them. The people of + Timbuctoo and Housa resemble each other in their persons and in + their manners. They castrate bulls, sheep, and goats, but never + horses. Supper is the principal meal. They do not use vessels of + brass or copper in cookery; they are all of earthenware. At sunset + the watchmen are stationed in all parts of the town, and take into + custody all suspected or unknown persons. They have lamps made of + wood and paper; the latter comes from Fas. Women of respectability +51 are attended by a slave when they walk out or visit, which they do + with the same freedom as in Europe. The women ride either horses or + asses, they have no mules; the men commonly prefer walking, they + are strong and seldom sensible of fatigue, which he attributes to + their having a rib more than white men. Some bake their own bread, + others buy it, as in England. They make leavened bread of + allila[89] and bishna; the cattle-market is within the city, in a + square, appropriated to this purpose. There are a great many rich + men, some by inheritance, others by trade. Every morning the doors + of the rich are crowded with poor, the master sends them food, + rice, milk, &c. They have names for every day. They make their own + pipes for smoking, the tubes are of wood. They have songs, some + with chorus, and some sung by two persons in alternate stanzas. + They have the same feasts once a quarter as at Timbuctoo. The king + has but one wife, but many concubines. The favourite slaves of the + queen of Housa are considered as superior to the queen of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 89: Millet and Indian corn.] + + GOLD. + + The ground where it is found is about sixteen miles from Housa. + They go in the night with camels whose legs and feet are covered to + protect them against snakes, they take a bag of sand, and mark with +52 it the places that glitter with gold; in the morning they collect + where marked, and carry it to refiners, who, for a small sum, + separate the gold. There are no mountains or rivers near the spot, + it is a plain without sand, of a dark brown earth. Any person may + go to seek gold; they sell it to the merchants, who pay a small + duty to the king. The produce is uncertain; he has heard that a + bushel of earth has produced the value of twelve ducats, three + pounds sterling, of pure gold. They set out from Housa about two + o'clock in the afternoon, arrive about sun-set, and return the next + day seeking for gold during the whole night. + + LIMITS OF THE EMPIRE + + Beyond Timboo, on the north side of the Nile, are very extensive. + Afnoo is subject to the king of Housa, no slaves can be made from + thence. Darfneel is near Afnoo; the latter is on the north side of + the river, nearer to its source, and a great way from Timbuctoo. No + Arabs are found on the banks of the Nile. He supposes the + circumference of the empire to be about twenty-five days' journey; + has heard that many other large towns are dependent upon it, but + does not remember their names. + + The neighbouring countries are Bambarra, Timboo, Mooshee, and + Jinnie; all negroes. He has heard of Bernoo[90] as a great empire. +53 + On the 31st of March, 1790, Shabeenee gave further information, in + the presence of Lord Rawdon[91], Mr. Stuart, and Mr. Wedgewood. Mr. + Wedgewood proposed the questions, and Mr. Dodsworth interpreted. + The following is some of the information, omitting what has been + noticed already. + + Between Timbuctoo and Housa, there is a very good trade. Timbuctoo + is tributary to the king of Housa. The imports into Timbuctoo[92] + are spices, corn, and woollens from Barbary, and linens from the + sea-coast. + + [Footnote 90: Ber Noh, or Bernoh, _i.e._ the country of Noah, + is said by the Africans, to be the birth-place of the patriarch + Noah.] + + [Footnote 91: Now the Marquis of Hastings.] + +[Footnote 92: For a more detailed account of the imports +to Timbuctoo, see Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c.] + + The written character is very large, perhaps half an inch long. The + empire is divided into provinces; the provinces into districts. The + king appoints the governors of both; but the son of the deceased + governor is understood to have the preference. + + They make their pottery by a wheel, but do not glaze it. The wheel + turns upon a pivot placed in a hole in the ground: at top and + bottom are two pieces of wood like a tea-table; the lower, which is + largest, is turned by the foot, and the upper forms the vessel. + When they make a large pot, they put on the top a larger piece: the + pots are dried in the sun or burnt in the fire. The iron mines are + in the desert; the iron is brought in small pieces by the Arabs, +54 who melt and purify it. They cannot cast iron. They use charcoal + fire, and form guns and swords with the hammer and anvil. The + points of their arrows are barbed with iron; the crossbows have a + groove for the arrow. No man can draw the bow by his arm alone, + they have a kind of lever; the bow part is of steel brought from + Barbary, and is manufactured at Timbuctoo. They do not make steel + themselves. + + They inoculate for the small-pox; the pus is put into a dried + raisin and eaten. "_Rooka Dindooka_" is a kind of oath, and means, + by God. They believe only one God. After dinner they use the Arabic + expression, El Hamd Ulillah; praise to be to God.[93] + + They believe the immortality of the soul, and that both men and + women go to paradise; that there is no future punishment; the + wicked are punished in this world. Happiness, after death, consists + in being in the presence of God. They are not circumcised. A + divorce may take place while a woman is pregnant, but she cannot + marry again till delivered. As soon as a woman is divorced, + midwives, women brought up to that profession, examine her to see + whether she is pregnant. + + [Footnote 93: This is the Arabic, or Muhamedan grace after + meat; the grace before meat is equally sententious, viz. + Bismillah, i.e. in the name of God.] + +[Illustration: map of West Barbary] + +55 + + LETTERS + CONTAINING + AN ACCOUNT OF JOURNIES + THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF + WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AT DIFFERENT PERIODS, + PERFORMED PERSONALLY BY J.G.J. + + + + + LETTER I. + + _On the opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz in Suse, and + of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to the Dutch._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + (Late British Consul for Senegambia) Eversholt, near Woburn, + Bedfordshire. + + Mogodor, 28th February, 1792. + + The emperor has consented to the proposition of the Dutch + government, to open the port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the + province of Suse, to the commerce of that nation; and I have + finally resolved to establish a house there, so soon as the sultan + Yezzid's order respecting that port shall reach the hands of Alkaid + Aumer ben Daudy, the governor of this port. There are various + political intrigues in agitation, to deter me from going personally +56 to establish the commerce of this most desirable and long-neglected + port of Santa Cruz. The governor anticipates a considerable + diminution in the treasury of Mogodor; and the merchants of this + place anticipate a great diminution of the various articles of + produce of this fine country, seeing that the principal articles of + exportation from the empire of Marocco are produced in the province + of Suse, and in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz. + + The stream of commerce will, therefore, necessarily be converted + from Mogodor to Santa Cruz. The merchants of Fas also, who have + their establishments and connections at Timbuctoo, and in other + parts of Sudan, will resort to Santa Cruz in preference to Mogodor, + for all European articles calculated for the markets of Sudan, the + former port being in the neighbourhood of the desert, or Sahara, + and at a convenient distance from Akka in Lower Suse, the general + rendezvous of the akkaba, (or accumulated caravans,) destined for + the interior regions of Africa or Sudan. This akkaba starts + annually for Timbuctoo, consisting of 2000 or 3000 camels, loaded + with merchandise from Fas, Tetuan, Sallee, Mogodor, Marocco, + Tafilelt, Draha, and Terodant. The port of Santa Cruz is hence +57 aptly denominated _Beb Sudan_, i.e. the gate or entrance of Sudan. + The port of Santa Cruz was formerly farmed by the emperor[94] Muley + Ishmael, to some European power, for 50,000 dollars a-year, as I + have been informed; others say it was purchased of him by his own + Jewish subjects, for the purposes of trade. However this may have + been, no advantage was ever taken of the favourable opportunity + then offered, of opening and securing to Europe an extensive and + lucrative trade with the various countries of Sudan or Nigritia. + + I can account for this omission only by supposing that the interior + of Africa was then less known than even it now is; and that the + merchants then established at Santa Cruz, had there sufficient + advantages in commerce to engage their attention, without examining + into this immense undiscovered mine of wealth! + + [Footnote 94: Great-grandfather of Muley Soliman, the present + emperor, who is denominated Soliman ben Muhamed ben Abdallah + ben Ismael.] +58 + + LETTER II. + + _The Author's arrival at Agadeer or Santa Cruz.--He opens the Port + to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception on landing + there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading Custom + that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on + Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a + Sanctuary at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been + considered Holy Ground, and none but Muhamedans had ever before + been permitted to enter the Gates on Horseback._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 7th March, 1792. + + _The emperor's[95] letter ordering the port of Santa Cruz to be + opened to the Dutch_, having reached Mogodor, and having received + my instructions from Webster Blount, Esq. Dutch consul-general to + this empire, to act as agent for him at that port, until my + appointment be ratified and confirmed by the States General, of + which he informs me there is no doubt, I proceeded hither in the + Snell Zee Post, Dirk Morris, master; and after being becalmed off + (Affernie) Cape de Geer, I arrived here the third morning after my + departure from Mogodor. I sent my horses by land; and on our +59 approach to the shore, I discovered them approaching the mountain + on which Santa Cruz stands. Soon after we came to anchor in the + road, the boats came off, and the battery, which is situated about + half-way up the mountain on the western declivity, saluted me with + 8 guns, (the Muhamedans always saluting with an even number.) This + compliment being unexpected, we were about half an hour preparing + to return it, when we saluted the battery with 9 guns. The captain + of the port received me with great courtesy, and was ordered by the + bashaw El Hayanie, governor of Santa Cruz, to pay the most + unqualified attention to my wishes. I landed amidst an immense + concourse of people, assembled on the beach to witness the + re-establishment of their port, most of whom were without shoes, + and very ill clad. + + [Footnote 95: See specimens of Arabic epistolary + correspondence, Appendix, Letter 9th.] + + The most hearty exclamations of joy and approbation were manifested + by the people when I landed; a merchant was come to establish, once + more, that commerce by which the fathers of the present generation + had prospered; and their sons appeared to know full well the + advantages that again awaited their industry, which for 30 years + had not been exercised. I mounted my horse on the beach, amidst the + general acclamations of the people, and ascended the mountain, on + the summit of which is the town. On my arrival at the gate, I was + courteously received by the bashaw's sons; who, however, informed +60 me that the entrance of Santa Cruz was ever considered holy ground, + and that Christians, during its former establishment, always + descended and entered the town on foot, intimating at the same time + that it was expected I should do the same. I had been before + cautioned by Mr. Gwyn, the British consul at Mogodor, not to + expostulate at this request, as it would certainly be required of + me to conform to ancient usages. But I knew too well the + disposition of the people, and the great desire that pervaded all + ranks to have the port established; I therefore turned my horse, + and told the bashaw's sons, that I was come, with the blessing of + God, to bring prosperity to the land, to make the poor rich, and to + improve the condition and multiply the conveniences of the opulent; + that I came to establish commerce for _their_ advantage, not for + mine; that it was indifferent to me whether I returned to Mogodor + or remained with them. The sons of the bashaw became alarmed, and + entreated me, with clasped hands, to wait till they should report + to the bashaw my words and observations. I consented, and soon + after they returned with their father's earnest request that I + should enter a-horseback: old customs, said the venerable old + bashaw when, immediately afterwards, I met him in the street; old + customs are abolished, enter and go out of this town a-horseback or + a-foot, we desire the prosperity of this port, and that its + commerce may flourish; _All the people of Suse hail you as their +61 deliverer, God has sent you to us to turn the desert into_ (jinen + afia) _a fruitful garden; come, and be welcome, and God be with + you._ + + I was conducted to the best house in the town, a house which + belonged to our predecessor, Mr. Grover; and I was informed, that + if any demur had been made by the bashaw respecting my entrance + through the sanctuary or holy ground, it might have caused an + immediate insurrection; so anxious and impatient were all ranks of + people for the new establishment of this eligible port of Suse. + + The privilege thus established, of riding in and out of the town, I + continued; and I procured it immediately afterwards for all + Christians! even masters of ships and common sailors. +62 + + LETTER III. + + _The Author makes a Commercial Road down the Mountain, to + facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and Liberality of the + Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description of the + Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength + of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Aguzem, and the Portuguese Spring and + Tank there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a + Fort.--Eligibility of the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial + Depot to Supply the whole of the Interior of North Africa with East + India and European Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to + Commerce and Industry, if Opportunity offered._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 20th March, 1792. + + The road up the mountain of Santa Cruz was so dangerous and + impassable, that I undertook to repair it; accordingly, I agreed + with a Shilluh to make it safe and convenient for transporting + goods for shipment; and such was the eager desire of the people for + the establishment of the port, that hundreds brought stones and + assisted gratuitously in the construction of this road; so that + what would have cost in England thousands of pounds, was here + completed for a few hundred dollars. + + The natives of this long-neglected territory were too acute not to + perceive the field of wealth that was thus opened to their +63 industry; they were convinced, from the traditions of their + fathers, of the incalculable benefits that would arise from a + commercial reciprocity; and they were determined to cultivate the + opportunity that was now offered to put them in possession of those + commercial advantages which their fathers had enjoyed before: the + benefits of which they had often related to their children, when + they talked of the prosperity and riches of the country during the + reign of Muley Ismael, when this port was before open to foreign + commerce. Agreeably to these well-founded anticipations, the genial + influence of commerce began, soon after my arrival, to manifest + itself throughout all ranks and denominations of men; _the whole + population visibly improved in their apparel and appearance; new + garments were now becoming common, and were every where substituted + for the rags and wretchedness before witnessed on landing here._ + + About four miles east of Santa Cruz, in a very romantic valley + surrounded by mountains, are found the ruins of a Portuguese tower. + _Tildie_, which is the name of this place, abounds in plantations + of the most delicious figs, grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour, citrons, oranges, water-melons, walnuts, + apricots in great abundance, and peaches, &c. &c. + + I invited a party of Arabs to accompany me to this delightful + retreat, where we dined: the Arabs killed two sheep; one they + roasted whole on a wooden spit, made on the spot; the other they +64 baked whole in an oven made for the purpose, in the following + manner: A large hole was dug in the ground; the inside was + plaistered with clay; after which they put fire in the hole till + the sides were dry; they then put the sheep in, and the top was + covered by clay in the form of an arch, fashioned and constructed + by the hand only; they afterwards made a large trough round this + temporary oven, and filled it with wood, to which they set fire. + The sheep was about three hours preparing in this manner, and it + was of exquisite flavour; the roasted mutton also was equally well + flavoured. No vegetables were served with this repast; for I had + desired that the fare should be precisely according to their own + custom; I therefore declined interfering with the arrangement of + the food. This mode of cooking is in high estimation with + travellers. These people never eat vegetables with their meat. When + they see Europeans eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of + vegetables, they express their surprise, observing that the taste + of the vegetables destroys the taste of the meat; and _vice versa_, + that the taste of the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables! + + The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit of a branch of the + Atlas, by the Portuguese, is enclosed by a strong wall, fortified + with bastions mounting cannon; it is about a mile in circumference. + Half way down the mountain, on the western declivity, opposite the + sea, stands a battery, which defends the town, towards the north, +65 south, and west, at the foot of the mountain. Westward, on the + shore of the sea, stands a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the + natives of this country,) Agurem. There is a copious spring of + excellent water at Agurem, built and ornamented by the Portuguese, + when they had possession of this country, and called by them + _Fonté_, which name the town still retains, and is so called by + Europeans. The royal arms of Portugal are seen, carved in stone, + over the tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water from here, + having none but rain-water in the town, which is collected in the + rainy season, and preserved in subterraneous apartments, called + mitferes[96], one of which is attached to every respectable house, + and contains sufficient for the consumption of the family during + the year. The natural position of Santa Cruz is extremely strong, + perhaps not less so than Gibraltar, though not on a peninsula; and + it might, in the hands of an European power, be made impregnable + with very little expense; it might also be made a very convenient + and most advantageous depot for the establishment of an extensive +66 commerce with the whole of the interior of North Africa. An attempt + of this kind was made about forty or fifty years since, by the + Danes, who anchored with several ships, and landed a mile south of + Agurem; and with stones, all ready cut, and numbered, erected on an + eminence[97], by the dawn of the following day, a battery of twelve + guns. But by a stratagem of the bashaw El Hayanie, who at that time + was bashaw of Suse, they were rendered unable to retain possession + of their fort; their plans were accordingly disconcerted, and the + adventurers retreated, and returned to their ships. + + [Footnote 96: The mitfere under my house at Santa Cruz, + contained, when full, four hundred pipes of water. At the + termination of the rainy season in March, it was generally + about two-thirds full, supplied from the flat roof or terras + during the rainy season. There was always much more than we + could consume, accordingly great quantities were distributed + among the poor, about the close of the season, or the autumn + previous to the next rainy season.] + + [Footnote 97: Called Agadeer Arba.] + + At the south-east extremity of the wall of Santa Cruz there is a + round battery, which protects the town from west to east; and might + be made to protect the valley to the east of the mountain. This + battery, with a little military skill, might be made to protect + every access to the town, not protected by the battery before + mentioned, which is situated about half way up the western + declivity of the mountain, and which commands or secures the fonte, + or spring, against an attack from any hostile force. +67 + + LETTER IV. + + _Command of the Commerce of Sudan._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, May 5, 1792. + + If Great Britain were to purchase the port of Santa Cruz of the + emperor, for a certain annual stipend, we should be enabled to + command the whole commerce of Sudan, at the expense of Tunis, + Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt; not at the expense of Marocco, because + an equivalent, or what the emperor would consider as such, would be + given in exchange for it; and we should then supply all those + regions with merchandise, at the first and second hand, which they + now receive through four, five, and six. We should thus be enabled + to undersell our Moorish competitors, and thus draw to our + commercial depot, all the gold-dust, gold-bars, and wrought-gold, + gum-sudan, (commonly called in England, Turkey gum-arabic), ostrich + feathers, and other articles the produce of Sudan; besides the + produce of Suse, viz. gum-barbary, sandrac, euphorbium, and + ammoniac, almonds, olive oil, wine, &c., together with the richest + fruits of every kind. These we should take in barter for our + manufactures. +68 + The road of Santa Cruz is very safe, and the best in the empire of + Marocco; it is defended from the fury of the tremendous gales that + visit this coast in December and January, and which invariably blow + from the south, by a projection of land that extends gradually from + the river Suse to cape Noon, very far westward into the ocean. + During my residence of several years at this summit of Atlas, not + one ship was wrecked or lost; there is plenty of water, and good + anchorage for ships of the line. + + A thousand European troops, directed by a vigilant and experienced + captain, might take the place by a _coup de main_; and the natives, + (after a proper explanation and assurance that trade was the object + of the capture,) would probably become allies of the captors, and + would supply in abundance all kind of provisions. They esteem the + English, and denominate them their brothers.[98] They sorely regret + the loss of trade occasioned by the emperor's restrictions, and + would gladly promote the cultivation of commerce if they had an + opportunity. They have been from time immemorial a trading + generation. + + [Footnote 98: _N'henna û l'Ingleez Khowan_, they say, "we and + the English are brothers."] +69 + + LETTER V. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + My dear sir, + + I have this moment received your favour, dated yesterday, and am + extremely sorry I had not the pleasure of seeing you before your + departure. We might have taken a farewell dinner together. You will + most highly oblige me by communicating to me all the intelligence + you can collect concerning the interior of Africa, more especially + of Timbuctoo; its trade, government, geographical situation, and + the manners and customs of its inhabitants. If you could send me + too, any of its products or manufactures, which may appear to you + curious or interesting, or may serve to shew the state of knowledge + and civilisation in the country, and the progress they may have + made in the arts, in manufactures or commerce, you will confer upon + me a singular favour; the expense of which I will readily repay, + and which I shall be happy to return whenever I can be of use to + you. If ever this region of Africa, which excites so strongly our + curiosity, should be laid open to us, you are, of all the men with + whom I am acquainted, the best qualified, and the most likely to + lead the way to this important discovery. I request you to favour +70 me with your correspondence; let me hear from you as frequently as + possible, without ceremony, and as one who wishes to be considered + as an old friend. When peace returns, I shall certainly take my + station in Senegambia[99], where we may then be fellow-labourers in + the same vineyard. There is no news yet of Park; perhaps you would + like to know how he proceeds; and as I expect to hear of him by the + return of my ship, I will inform you, if you wish it; and, in + short, will keep up a regular correspondence on my part, if you + will do the same on your's. Pray, in what ship do you go? Perhaps, + if you would give me encouragement, I might venture into a little + commercial speculation to Santa Cruz. I heartily wish you a + pleasant voyage, health, and success; and am, with great regard, + + My dear Sir, + + Very truly your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + August 12,1796. + + [Footnote 99: Mr. James Willis had the appointment of consul at + Senegambia, and was then waiting an opportunity of proceeding + thither.] +71 + + LETTER VI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + My dear sir, + + I duly received your letter from Gibraltar, and have made known to + Government the expediency of sending a person to Marocco, to oppose + the influence of the French and Spaniards; but I cannot yet say + with certainty whether the measure will be adopted or not; if it + should, you may rely upon my attention to your interest. I have + given your name to the secretary of state, and have spoken of you + with that distinction, which I think, without any flattery, your + qualifications justly deserve. + + Peace still appears to be at a great distance, since the late + negociations; yet, as nothing is so uncertain as an event of this + kind, it may come upon us, (as the last peace did) like a thief in + the night, when we least expect it. You will have, I have no doubt, + frequent opportunities of procuring information concerning + Timbuctoo, and other places in the interior of Africa. Your + knowledge of the language, customs, and commerce of that continent, + give you advantages which few possess upon this ground; and I + assure you, every kind of information will be greedily received +72 here, concerning those regions; especially that which relates to + their commerce, civilisation, customs, geography, and language. + + I request as a favour that you would write me as often as possible; + exclusive of the interest I take in all that relates to the + politics and commerce of Africa, (particularly of the interior,) to + hear of your own individual welfare, will give me the sincerest + pleasure. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + + Your's very sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. + + No. 67. Harley-street, London, 2d February, 1796. + + We have no letters from Mr. Park, since he left the river Gambia; + but we have heard from others, that he had proceeded in safety + above two-thirds of the journey. We expect soon to hear of his + return. If he succeeds, his fame and fortune will be worthy of + envy. +73 + + LETTER VII. + + _Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles the Customs' Duties of + Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abd El Melk, with the Garrison and + Merchants of Santa Crux, ordered to go to the Court at + Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the + Country and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through + which the Author passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse + from Marocco, originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of + Atlas.--Extensive Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait + Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at + Marocco, and Audience with the Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at + Marocco.--Prince Abd El Melk's magnificent Apparel, reprobated by + the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz, shut to the Commerce of + Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Mogodor.--The Prince banished + to the _Bled Shereef_ or Country of Princes, viz., Tafilelt, of the + Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the Country. + --Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity of + the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of + Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (Attar + being the Word signifying a Distillation.)--State of Oister Shells, + on the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and + Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's + Reception on the Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or + Sahara of Mogodor._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Santa Cruz, March 15, 1797. + + When the emperor Soliman proceeded from Fas with a numerous army to +74 the south, he doubled the export and import duties at Mogodor, + viz., from six to twelve per cent., payable in kind. Those of Santa + Cruz remained as before, but so soon as his imperial majesty + reached Marocco, he sent orders for the prince Abd El Melk, who is + his nephew and governor of Santa Cruz, with the garrison, together + with the merchants, to proceed to Marocco; accordingly we all + departed, the prince having first engaged a revered (fakeer) saint + to accompany the army across the Atlas mountains, the fastnesses of + which it appeared no army would be permitted to pass, without the + protection of this fakeer. We departed about noon, and passed + through the plains of the Arab province of Howara[100], a very fine + country; we pitched our tents at sunset, near a sanctuary, where we + had all kinds of provisions sent to us, in great abundance: we + continued our journey the following morning through the plains, and + about the middle of the day we reached the foot of Atlas. + + This country abounds in extensive plantations of olives, almonds, + and gum trees; some plants of the (_fashook_) gum ammoniac are here + discovered. Vines producing purple grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour: (_dergmuse_) the Euphorbium plant is discovered + in rocky parts of the mountains; and great abundance of worm-seed +75 and stick-liquorice.[101] The indigo plant (_Enneel_) is found + here; as are also pomegranates, of a large size and a most + exquisitely sweet flavour, and oranges. Ascending the Atlas, after + five hours' ride, we reached a table-land, and pitched our tents + near a sanctuary. The temperature of the air is cooler here, and + the trees are of a different character; apples, pears, cherries, + walnuts, apricots, peaches, plums, and rhododendrums, were the + produce of this region. The next morning at five o'clock, the army + struck their tents, and after ascending seven hours more, we met + with another change in vegetation. Leguminous plants began to + appear; pines of an immense size, ferns, _the belute_, a species of + oak, the acorn of which is used as food, and is preferred to the + Spanish chesnut; elms, mountain-ash, _seedra_ and _snobar_, the two + latter being a species of the juniper. After this we passed through + a fine campaign country of four hours' ride: we were informed that + this country was very populous; but our fakeer and guide avoided + the habitations of men. We now began again to ascend these + magnificent and truly romantic mountains, and in two hours + approached partial coverings of snow. Vegetation here diminishes, + and nothing is now seen but firs, whose tops appear above the snow; + the cold is here intense; and it is remarkable, that, the pullets' + eggs that we procured in the campaign country just described, were + nearly twice the size of those of Europe. Proceeding two hours +76 further, we came to a narrow pass, on the east side of which was an + inaccessible mountain, almost perpendicular, and entirely covered + with snow; and on the west, a tremendous precipice, of several + thousand feet in depth, as if the mountain had been split in two, + or rent asunder by an earthquake: the path is not more than a foot + wide, over a solid rock of granite. Here the whole army dismounted, + and many prostrated in prayer, invoking the Almighty to enable them + to pass in safety; but, however, notwithstanding all possible + precaution, two mules missed their footing, and were precipitated + with their burdens into the yawning abyss. There is no other pass + but this, and that of Belawin, which is equally dangerous for an + army; so that the district of Suse, which was formerly a kingdom, + might be defended by a few men, against an invading army from + Marocco of several thousands, by taking a judicious position at the + southern extremity of this narrow path and tremendous precipice, + which is but a few yards in length. Proceeding northward through, + this defile, we continued our journey seven hours, (gradually + descending towards the plains of Fruga, a town of considerable + extent, distant about fifteen miles from the mountains.) Proceeding + two hours further, making together nine hours' journey, the army + pitched their tents, and we encamped on another table-land, on the + northern declivity of Atlas, at the entrance of an immense + plantation of olives, about a mile west of a village, called Ait +77 Musie, a most luxuriant and picturesque country. The village of Ait + Musie contains many Jews, whose external is truly miserable; but + this appearance of poverty is merely political, for they are a + trading and rich people, for such a patriarchal country. The olive + plantations at this place, and in many other parts of this country, + do honour to the agricultural propensity of the emperor Muley + Ismael, who planted them. They cover about six square miles of + ground; the trees are planted in right lines, at a proper distance; + the plantation is interspersed with openings, or squares, to let in + the air. These openings are about a square acre in extent. + + [Footnote 100: migration from this tribe attacked and took the + city of Assouan, in Egypt, some years ago. Vide Burckhardt's + Travels in Nubia.] + + [Footnote 101: This root abounds all over Suse, and is called + by the natives _Ark Suse, i.e._ the foot of Suse: the worm-seed + is called sheh.] + + In travelling through the various provinces of South and West + Barbary, these extensive plantations of olives are frequently met + with, and particularly throughout Suse. It appeared that they were + all planted by the emperor Muley Ismael, whose indefatigable + industry was proverbial. Wherever that warrior (who was always in + the field) encamped, he never failed to employ his army in some + active and useful operation, to keep them from being devoured by + the worm of indolence, as he expressed it. Accordingly wherever he + encamped, we meet with these extensive plantations of olive trees, + planted by his troops, which are not only a great ornament to the + country, but produce abundance of fine oil. The olive plantations + at Ras El Wed, near Terodant in Suse, are so extensive, that one +78 may travel from the rising to the setting sun under their shade, + without being exposed to the rays of the effulgent African sun. + + We remained encamped at Ait Musie[102] three days, amusing + ourselves by hawking with the prince's falconer, and hunting the + antelope. Early in the morning of the fourth day, we descended the + declivity of the Atlas, and travelling eight hours, we reached the + populous town of Fruga, situated in the same extensive plain + wherein the city of Marocco stands. From this village to Marocco, a + day's journey, the country is one continued corn-field, producing + most abundant crops of wheat and barley, the grain of which is of + an extraordinary fine quality, and nearly twice the size of the + wheat produced at the Cape of Good Hope. + + [Footnote 102: Here the prince sent couriers to the emperor, to + announce his approach.] + + On our approach to the metropolis, the emperor sent the princes + that were at Marocco to welcome the prince Abd El Melk. They were + accompanied by 100 cavalry, who saluted our prince with the Moorish + compliment of running full gallop and firing their muskets. These + princes, who were relations of Abd El Melk, son of Abd Salam, shook + hands with him respectively, and then kissed their own. This is the + salutation when friends of equal rank meet. We entered the city of + Marocco at the _Beb El Mushoir_, which is the gate situated near + the palace and place of audience, towards the Atlas mountains. The +79 next day I had an audience of the emperor, who received me in (the + _Jenan En neel_) the garden of the Nile, a small garden adjoining + the palace, containing all the fruits and plants from the Nile[103] + of Egypt. The (_worde fillelly_) Tafilelt-rose grows in great + luxuriance in this garden, resembling that of China; the odour is + very grateful and strong, perfuming the air to a considerable + distance. This is the rose, from the leaves of which the celebrated + (_attar el worde_) _i.e._ distillation of roses is made, vulgarly + called in Europe, _otto_ of roses. + + [Footnote 103: This orthography, _Nile_, has been imported from + France; with the French it is pronounced as we pronounce Neel; + and this is the intelligible pronunciation in Africa.] + + The emperor declared the port of Santa Cruz to be shut; and that no + European merchant of any nation should continue there. He gave me + my choice, either to quit the country, or establish a house at + Mogodor. I entreated a short time to consider which I should + choose, which was readily granted. + + The prince Abd El Melk was magnificent in his apparel, the Emperor + dressed very plain; these were two incompatible propensities, the + latter had probably heard of the prince's extravagance in this + respect, and chose to moralise with him by comparing his own + parsimonious and plain apparel to _his_ costly attire; and + insinuating that the iron buckle to his belt answered every purpose + of a gold one, reprimanded the prince for the extravagance and + vanity of his wardrobe, and acquainted his Highness that the port +80 of Santa Cruz should no longer remain open to European commerce. + The prince remained some days after this notification at Maroco; an + annual stipend was allowed him and he was sent to (the _Bled + Shereef, i.e._ the country of princes, viz.) Tafilelt, and had + apartments allotted him in the Imperial Palace at that place, which + is very magnificent and extensive. It is built of marble collected + for the most part from the _Kaser Farawan_ or ruins of Pharaoh, an + ancient city now in ruins, contiguous to the sanctuary of Muley + Dris Zerone, east of the city of Mequinas, on the western declivity + of the Atlas; this marble was transported across the mountains of + Atlas on camels, a distance of fifteen journies to Tafilelt. The + inhabitants of this part of Bled Eljereed live principally on + dates, which abound so in this country that the fruit of one + plantation is commonly sold for 1000 dollars, producing 1500 camel + load of dates, or 4500 quintals; there are thirty-five species of + this rich fruit, of which the _butube_ is unquestionably the best + and the most wholesome; it is rich, of a fine flavour, and sweet as + honey: the _buscré_ is also good; but so dry and full of saccharine + matter that it resembles a lump of sugar. Undoubtedly if this + country were in the hands of Europeans they would extract sugar, + perhaps as much as 150 lb. from a camel load of dates weighing 300 + lb. The _adamoh_ is the date that is imported to this country; it + is the best for keeping, but at Tafilelt they use it only for the + cattle, considering it an unwholesome kind and heavy of digestion. +81 The country from the eastern declivity of Atlas to Tafilelt, and to + the eastward of Tafilelt, even unto Seginmessa is one continued + barren plain of a brown sandy soil impregnated with salt, so that + if you take up the earth it has a salt flavour; the surface also + has the appearance of salt, and if you dig a foot deep, a brackish + water ooses up. On the approach, to within a day's journey of + Tafilelt, however, the country is covered with the most magnificent + plantations and extensive forests of the lofty date, exhibiting the + most elegant and picturesque appearance that nature, on a plain + surface, can present to the admiring eye. In these forests there is + no underwood, so that a horseman may gallop through them without + impediment. Wheat is cultivated near the river, and honey is + produced of an exquisite quality. The faith and honour of the + (filelly) inhabitants of Tafilelt is proverbial; a robbery has not + been known within the memory of man; they use neither locks nor + keys, having no need of either! + + Having had my audience of leave of the Emperor, I prepared to + proceed to Mogodor, but before I describe the country through which + we passed thither, it may not perhaps be uninteresting to give some + account of the Imperial gardens at Marocco, which are three, the + _Jenan Erdoua_, the _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan En. neel_: the + last is confined to plants brought from the Egyptian Nile. The + _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan Erdoua_, contain oranges, citrons, +82 vines, figs, pomegranates, water and musk melons, all of exquisite + flavour. The orange and fig trees are here as large as a middling + sized English oak. Roses are so abundant at Marocco that they grow + every where, and have a most powerful perfume, insomuch that one + rose scents a large room; all other flowers are in abundance, and + many that are nursed with care in English hot-houses are seen in + the Marocco plains growing spontaneously. These gardens, as well as + others throughout the country, are watered by the Persian or + Arabian wheel, with pitchers fixed to it, which discharge the water + into a trough or tank; as the pitchers rise and turn over their + contents into this tank, the water is communicated to the garden + and inundates the plants. Departing from Marocco to Mogodor, the + first day's journey is through the plains of Sheshawa, a fine + campaign country abounding in corn; the mountains of Sheshawa, + which are higher than any in Great Britain, have strata of oyster + and other shells at the top of them. We encamped at the foot of + these mountains; I had the curiosity to examine the depth of these + strata of shells, and found them several feet deep, and extending + all the way down the mountains. The rivers Sheshawa and Wed Elfees + water these plains. The next day's journey brought us to a + sanctuary, where we met very good entertainment, that is, such as + the country affords, plenty of good provisions and hospitable + treatment. +83 + The next evening we encamped at a place called _Dar El Hage + Croomb_, a very picturesque situation, where we were hospitably + entertained; the Sheik coming to drink tea with me, related the + history of his ancestors and traced his descent through many + generations of warriors, whose dextrous management of the lance was + the burden of the story. The next day, after travelling about six + hours, we arrived at the extremity of the productive country, and + entered _El Grored_, or the desert of sandy hills, which divide the + rocky peninsula of Mogodor, from the cultivated land; this Sahara + consists of loose sand-hills very fatiguing to the horses, and + although not more than three miles in width, we were an hour and a + half in crossing them, before we entered the gate of Mogodor. +84 + + LETTER VIII. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-Street, London, + + My Dear Sir, 12th December, 1797. + + I thank you warmly for your intelligence concerning the interior of + Africa, and beg you will continue to favour me with all the + information you can collect upon this subject. Mr. Park has been + almost as far as Jinnie, but did not reach Timbuctoo; he is now on + his way to England, in an American ship, via America. We are + anxious for his arrival, which may be expected in the course of the + present month; and all the Africani are extremely curious to hear + the detail of his most interesting journey, which we hope will + produce some authentic knowledge, of a considerable part of those + regions, that have hitherto baffled all the ardour and energy of + European enquiry, though they have always excited the curiosity of + the most eminent and enlightened men, both in past and present + times. + + I thank you also for the commercial intelligence you have sent me. + + Do you know whether the emperor of Marocco has any collection of + books? If he has, probably some ancient books, of great value, + might be found among them. +85 + I should consider it as a very great obligation if you could + procure, and send me any book or manuscript in the character and + language of Timbuctoo. We are informed that, besides the Arabic, + they have a character of their own, perfectly different. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Sincerely your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + _Extract of a Letter to Mr. Jackson, from His Excellency J.M. + Matra, British Envoy to Marocco, &c._ + + Tangier, November 8, 1797. + + I have not yet received any answer from Sir Joseph Banks to the + letter from you, which I sent to him. Should you be able to obtain + any information from Timbuctoo[104], or of the interior of this + country, which would gratify one's curiosity, I will be very + thankful for a slice of it. + + I am ever, dear Jackson, + Most faithfully your's, + JAMES M. MATRA. + + [Footnote 104: All _my information_ respecting Timbuctoo, will + be found in Jackson's Account of Marocco, Chapter XIII.] +86 + + LETTER IX. + + _Custom of visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco.--Journey + of the Merchants thither on that occasion.--No one enters the + imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode of travelling.--The + Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience of the + Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of + Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at + Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, east + and south of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of + eating.--Trades or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of + the Sultan.--Present received from the Sultan_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Mogodor, 1788. + + The emperor having departed from Mequinas where he passed the + winter, to Marocco, his summer residence, it becomes an incumbent + duty for all loyal subjects, to pay their respects to him. All the + bashaws of provinces, south of the river Morbeya, which divides the + northern part of his dominions from the southern, as well as all + the alkaids or governors of towns and districts under the authority + of the bashaws of the provinces, are expected to show their + loyalty, by obtaining permission to present themselves to the + imperial presence; when they give an account of the state of the +87 district which they respectively govern. The bashaw of each + province communicates with the emperor, and determines which of the + alkaids[105] shall have the honour of presenting themselves. On + these occasions, that is, when the emperor comes to Marocco, it is + customary for the merchants of Mogodor to perform the journey to + the metropolis[106] of the south, and to present his imperial + majesty with a present; indeed, it is not the etiquette of this + court for any one to demand an audience (which the lowest subject + in the realm may claim) without being prepared to present + something; so that the poor may have an audience by presenting half + a dozen eggs, or any similar trifle, such as some fruit or flowers; + but no one enters the imperial presence (_khawie_, as they term it, + _i. e._) empty-handed. The routine is this: The European merchants, + together with the house of Guedalla and Co., who are native Jews, + are called _el commercio;_ the commercio, therefore, solicit the + honour of presenting themselves to the emperor, to offer their + congratulations on his arrival; this is acceded to, and the + minister, who is denominated the _talb cadus_, a term designating a + man who disperses orders and communications to every one, writes a +88 letter to the commercio, expressive of the emperor's disposition to + see them, and requesting them to repair to his presence: a guard is + given by the alkaid of Mogodor, and a present _ought_ to be + selected of such articles as are not to be bought at the markets of + the country. A present consisting of such articles, previously + ordered from Europe, and judiciously selected, is better calculated + to gratify the emperor, than ten times the value injudiciously + collected. The merchants accordingly prepared themselves to proceed + to Marocco; some rode mules, some horses, for there are no + carriages in this country; and every individual had his tent and + servants with him. We travelled three days through a fine country, + and reached the city of Marocco the fourth day, in the afternoon, + travelling eight hours each day, at the rate of four miles an hour. + On our approach to the city, we sent an express to the _talb + cadus_, who, by the imperial order, appropriated the emperor's + garden, _jinnen el afia_, for our reception, the pavilion in which + was appropriated to our service; we preferred, however, in this + delightful climate, sleeping in our tents, which we were permitted + to pitch in this beautiful garden. We dined in the _coba_, or + pavilion. The (_talb cadus_) minister paid us a visit, to say that + the emperor requested we would take the following day to rest from + our journey, and at eight o'clock on the following morning, he + would receive us; the present was accordingly prepared, which was +89 carried by four-and-twenty men; every article (the bulky ones + excepted) being enveloped in a Barcelona silk handkerchief. The + emperor was in the (_m'ushoir_) place of audience, on that side of + the city which faces the mountains of Atlas. At our presentation we + did not prostrate ourselves, but bowed, in the European manner; the + emperor said, bono el commercio, a Spanish phrase which he uses in + interviews with Europeans, and which is equivalent to his saying, + you are welcome, merchants. To this we replied, _Allah iberk amer + seedi_, God bless the life of my master. The emperor asked if we + were recovered from the fatigue of our journey, and was quite + affable; he then said, communicate with the effendi[107], and + whatever you want shall be granted to you; for I am disposed to + encourage and (_amel el k'here_) to do good to my merchants. The + master of the audience then came to us, and signified that we might + depart; we made our obeisance, and returned to our habitation. This + was the audience of introduction, which is always short; the second + audience is for business; and the third is the audience of + departure. We remained encamped in the imperial garden a fortnight + before we had another audience; in the mean time we amused + ourselves in riding about the country, and in visiting some of the +90 most respectable inhabitants, among whom was the _cadus_, who has a + noble mansion, replete with every convenience, and a garden in the + centre of it. The rooms of this house were long and narrow, with a + pair of high doors in the centre of the room, through which alone + the light is admitted; the floors were paved with small glazed + tiles, about two inches square, very neatly fitted, and of + different colours; the walls were the same, a mode of building + which in this warm climate imparts a grateful coolness; the + ceilings are painted in the Araberque style, with brilliant + colours. The roofs are of terras, and flat, having an insensible + declivity, just sufficient to give the rain that falls a course, + which falling into the pipes, is received in the (_mitfere_) a + subterraneous cistern, which supplies the family with water the + whole year, till the rainy season returns again. + + [Footnote 105: In each province, or bashawick, there are + several alkaids or governors of districts.] + + [Footnote 106: The city of Fas is the metropolis of the north, + as Marocco is of the south. Mequinas is the court town of the + north, and resembles the Hague, where few reside but such as + are employed in the service of the crown.] + + [Footnote 107: This word was used by the seed, or emperor, in + the presumption that it is understood by Europeans; but _cadus_ + is the Arabic term.] + + There is near to the walls of Marocco, about the north-west point, + a village, called (_Deshira el Jeddam_) i.e. the Village of Lepers. + I had a curiosity to visit this village; but I was told that any + other excursion would be preferable; that the Lepers were totally + excluded from the rest of mankind; and that, although none of them + would dare to approach us, yet the excursion would be not only + unsatisfactory but disgusting. I was, however, determined to go; I + mounted my horse, and took two horse-guards with me, and my own + servant. We rode through the Lepers' town; the inhabitants +91 collected at the doors of their habitations, but did not approach + us; they, _for the most part_, showed no external disfiguration, + but were generally sallow; some of the young women were very + handsome; they have, however, a paucity of eyebrow, which, it must + be allowed, is somewhat incompatible with a beauty; some few had no + eyebrows at all, which completely destroyed the effect of their + dark animated eyes. They are obliged to wear a large straw hat, + with a brim about nine inches wide; this is their _badge of + separation_, a token of division between the clean and unclean, + which when seen in the country, or on the roads, prevents any one + from having personal contact with them. They are allowed to beg, + and accordingly are seen by the side of the roads, with their straw + hat badge, and a wooden bowl before them, to receive the charity of + passengers, exclaiming (_attanie m'ta Allah_) "bestow on me the + property of God;" (_kulshie m'ta Allah_) "all belongs to God!" + reminding the passenger that he is a steward of, and accountable + for the appropriation of his property; that he derives his property + from the bounty and favour of God. When any one gives them money, + they pronounce a blessing on him; as (_Allah e zeed kherik_) "may + God increase your good," &c. The province of Haha abounds in + lepers; and it is said that the Arganic[108] oil, which, is much + used in food throughout this picturesque province, promotes this + loathsome disease! + + [Footnote 108: This oil, which is excellent, and generally used + for frying fish, should be thus prepared, according to the + learned Doctor Barata, who was pensioned physician to the + _Commercio_ of Mogodor, by which preparation it becomes + perfectly wholesome, and deprived of any leprous or other bad + quality: Take a quart of Argan oil, and put in it a large onion + cut in slices; when it boils add a piece of crumb of bread, + equal in size to an onion, then let it boil a few minutes more, + take it off, let it cool, and strain the oil through a sieve, + and bottle it for daily use.] +92 + The chain of Atlas, east of Marocco, continually covered with snow, + gives a pleasant coolness to the air of the city, in the summer + season, particularly in the morning and evening; the coolness is + generally said, however, to produce ophthalmia.[109] These + mountains are immensely high, and their magnitude makes them appear + not more than five miles from the city. It is, however, a day's + journey to the foot of them, after which the ascent is so gradual, + that it takes two days more to reach the snow. This part of the + chain of Atlas, east of the city of Marocco, is seen at sea, twenty + miles west of Mogodor, which latter place is about 120 miles from +93 Marocco; it is 35 miles from the city of Marocco to the foot of + Atlas; and it is two days' journey from the foot of Atlas to the + snow, which constantly covers the summit of these immense + mountains. They are thus seen at a distance of 245 miles: + + 20 miles from land at sea. + 120 do. Mogodor to Marocco. + 35 do. Marocco to the foot of + the mountains. + 70 do. the foot of Atlas to the snow. + --- + Seen at 245 miles distance. + --- + + [Footnote 109: Ophthalmic disorders prevail among the Jews of + Marocco, but are seldom seen among the Moors. The Jews live in + great filth at Marocco; the dung-hills and ruins are in some + places as high as the houses. The Muhamedan doctrine does not + allow the Moors to neglect personal cleanliness, which, among + these people, is a cardinal virtue; and this, I presume, is the + cause of their being, in a great measure, exempt from + ophthalmia, whereas the Jews, on the contrary, are generally + affected with it.] + + In this calculation, the direct distance in the ascent of the + mountain, is less than the travelling distance; but without taking + notice of the distance from the border of the snow to the summit of + this lofty mountain, which is said to be another day's journey, the + one may balance the other: we may therefore calculate 70 miles as + the direct longitudinal distance, although I am persuaded it is + much more from the foot to the summit of that part of the Atlas + which is visible at sea. + + H.T. Colebrooke, Esq., in a paper inserted in the Asiatic + Transactions, vol. xii. asserts, that it requires an elevation of + 28,000 feet, for an object to be visible at the distance of 200 +94 geographical miles; now 245 English miles are equal to 211-1/2 + geographical miles; consequently, if Mr. Colebrooke be correct, the + summit of Atlas, east of Marocco and Dimenet, which is seen at a + distance of 211-1/2 geographical miles, must be 29,610 feet high, + or above five miles and a half. + + Again, the chain of Atlas in Lower Suse, which lies east of Elala, + and which is constantly covered with snow, is situated three days' + journey, horse travelling, east-south-east from Elala, in Lower + Suse; Elala is three days' journey from Santa Cruz, horse + travelling, making together 180 miles: add for distance from the + foot of the Elala mountains to the snow, 60 miles, and the Atlas in + Lower Suse will be seen at the distance of 240 miles, or 207 + geographical miles. + + Thus, from Santa Cruz to the } + foot of the Atlas mountains, in the} 180 miles. + district of Elala, in Lower Suse } + + Add for distance from the foot } + of the Elala mountains to the } 60 + snow } + --- + So that the Atlas in Lower Suse, } + being seen at a distance of } 240 + + Or 207 geographical miles, must have an altitude of 28,980 feet. + + On the north side of the city of Marocco is a gate called _Beb El + Khummes_, and near it is held, every Thursday, a market called soke + _El Khummes_; at which immense quantities of horses, camels, mules, + asses, oxen, sheep, goats, wheat and barley are sold; oils, gums, +95 almonds, dates, raisins, figs, bees' wax, honey, skins, &c. &c. + &c.; also, slaves, male and female. Such a horse as would cost in + London 50_l._, sells here for 50 dollars; a good mule sells for the + same, viz. 50 dollars; a bull, 12 dollars; a cow, 15 dollars; + sheep, a dollar and a half, each; a goat, a dollar. Very fine large + grained wheat, which increases one-fifth in the grinding, sells at + one dollar per saa, or about half a dollar per Winchester bushel. + The slaves are conducted through the market by the auctioneer + (_delel_), who exclaims, occasionally, (_khumseen reeal aal + zeeada_, i.e.) "50 dollars on the increase," till he finds no one + will advance; when he goes to the owner and declares the price + offered; the owner then decides if he will sell or not; if he + sells, the money is paid immediately, but if not, he takes his + slave away with him, and tries him again the next market-day, or + waits in expectation that this wretched article of trade will rise + in value. + + A stranger passing through Marocco would consider it an irregular + miserable town; but the despotic nature of the government induces + every individual to secrete or conceal his opulence; so that the + houses of the gentry are surrounded with a shabby wall, often + broken or out of repair, at a considerable distance from the + dwelling house, which does not appear, or is invisible to the + passenger. Some of these houses are very handsome, and are + furnished with couches, circular cushions to sit on, and other +96 furniture, in all the luxury of the East. When a visitor or a guest + enters one of these houses, slaves come in with perfumes burning, + in compliment to the visitor. Coffee and tea are then presented in + small cups, having an outer cup to hold that which contains the + liquor, instead of a saucer; the sugar being first put into the + pot. The coffee or tea being poured out, already sweetened with + sugar, a negro boy generally takes his station in one corner of a + spacious room, pours out the liquor, and sends it to the guests by + another boy. The tea table is a round stand, about twelve inches + from the ground, at which the tea boy sits down on a leather + cushion, cross legged. + + When dinner is served, the food is in a large dish or bowl, on a + round stand, similar to that above described; three, four, or more + sit round it; a servant comes to the company with a ewer and + napkin; each person wash their right hand, and eat with their + fingers; in the higher circles, rose-water is used instead of + plain; if soup is served, they eat it with wooden spoons; in this + respect the emperor himself sets them the example, who reprobates + the use of the precious metals with food. + + When the Moors sit down to eat; high and low, rich and poor, (for I + have partaken of food with all ranks, from the prince to the + plebeian,) they invariably invoke God's blessing, previous to the + repast, and offer thanks at the conclusion. Their first grace is, + invariable, short, and comprehensive; _bis'm illah_, "In the name +97 of God." The after grace is, _El Ham'd û littah_, "Praise be to + God." + + A very excellent dish is generally eaten in this country, called + _cuscasoe_; it is made with flour, granulated into particles the + size of a partridge shot, which is, put over a steamer, till the + steam has sufficiently passed through it, so as to produce the + effect of boiling; it is then taken off, broken, and returned to + steam a second time; in the meantime, a chicken or some meat is + boiling in the saucepan, under the steamer, with onions, turnips, + and other vegetables; when the _cuscasoe_ has been steamed a second + time, it is taken off, coloured with saffron, and mixed with some + butter, salt, and pepper, and piled up in a large round bowl or + dish, garnished with the chicken or meat and vegetables. This is a + very nutritious, wholesome, and palatable dish, when well cooked. + It is in high estimation with the Arabs, Moors, Brebers, Shelluhs, + and Negroes. When they sit down to eat, each person puts his + fingers into the dish before him; and in respectable society, it is + remarkable how dextrously they jerk the food into their mouths, + which never come into contact with their hands; so that this mode + of eating is scarcely objectionable, certainly not obnoxious, as + some travellers have represented it; but who probably had + associated with the lower ranks of society, who, indeed, are not + particular in these observances. +98 + All kind of trades are carried on at Marocco: jewellers, + goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, tanners, &c. &c.; but that + which is the most honourable, is a shoe-maker, because Muhamed + himself was one. At Mequinas they make excellent shoes, of leather + impervious to water, for 1_s._ 8_d._ per pair. + + The time now approached for our audience of business, and we had + represented to the _Talb Cadus_, that the export duties on some + articles were too heavy, viz. on wax, almonds, and olive oil; also + on certain imports, viz. iron, steel, and Buenos Ayres hides; but + no diminution was obtained, except in the duty of bees' wax. The + emperor gave hopes of an exportation of grain, and desired us to + write to Europe for ships to come and load wheat, barley, Indian + corn, caravances, beans, lentils, and millet. We were favourably + received; the emperor asked several questions respecting Europe, + and informed us we should return to Mogodor in a few days. Three + days after this audience we were ordered to meet the emperor in the + _Jenan En neel_, where we had our audience of leave, and the + emperor gave each of us a fine horse, chosen by ourselves out of + his own stable; and we took our leave and departed for Mogodor the + following evening. We slept encamped under the magnificent and + lofty date trees, in the neighbourhood of the city, the first + night. +99 + + LETTER X. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-street, London, + + My dear Sir, September 10, 1798. + + I write to acknowledge the receipt of your favour. I know no man + better qualified than yourself for the station of an African + consul; and really think, that to assist you in obtaining such a + post, is to render service to my country, as well as to yourself. + Your information concerning the interior of Africa, and especially + concerning Timbuctoo, appears to me to be more accurate, authentic, + and extensive than that of any other person I have met with; + considerably more so than that of any of the correspondents of the + African association. Mr. Park, of whose return you are informed, + has brought home no addition to the stock of our knowledge of that + important place; though I think his geographical communications are + highly valuable, particularly as they regard the river and course, + &c. of the Niger. This celebrated river will, I think, in time be + the channel of communication between Europe and the interior of + Africa. It seems to penetrate into that continent, in its widest + and most interesting part; if it should be navigable through its + entire course, we might hereafter make it the instrument of the + most important discoveries, and the channel of the most valuable +100 commerce. I shall be much obliged to you for information concerning + this river, particularly as to its termination. I suspect it + discharges itself into some interior sea or vast lake, like the + Caspian; unless, like the Burrampooter, after various and extensive + windings, it may return towards its source, and fall into the + Atlantic. + + You will have heard of the landing of a French army in Egypt, under + Buonaparte; the French are enterprising, and if they should + penetrate from the eastward, while we advance from the west, the + interior of the African continent may at length be laid open. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Your's sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. +101 + + LETTER XI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + June 10.1800. + My dear Sir, + + I did not receive, till the 22d November, your favour, dated 1st + September last, for which I beg you to receive my best thanks. I + have transmitted an extract of it to Lord Moira, Sir Joseph Banks, + and to a friend of mine, who is a member of parliament, and has + great influence with his majesty's ministers; in order that he may + lay it before the secretary of state, in such a manner as to draw + his attention to it in the most impressive and effectual manner; + but I much fear that the pressure of the war, and its consequent + effects; the arrangements of finance, &c. will preclude their + immediate support to objects which they consider as of very + subordinate importance. The time is certainly highly favourable for + the cultivation of the friendship of the emperor, and of other + Muhamedan sovereigns; now that the British arms have preserved the + principal empire of the Moslems, by the victory at Aboukir, and the + defense of Acre; in consequence of which, Egypt has been recovered, + and one of the sacred gates of the Caaba again opened to the +102 Mussulmen. This appears to be an event of the highest consideration + to the Muhamedans of Africa, since it is by Grand Cairo, that the + western pilgrims communicate with Mecca. + + I suppose you have received the narratives, published by Park and + Browne, of their respective journies and discoveries in the + interior of your continent; they have done much, but much more + still remains to be done; and above all, the discovery of Timbuctoo + and its commercial relations. + + There is a captain Wild, now either at Tunis or Algiers, preparing + himself for this journey, (as I am informed,) a man of intrepidity, + judgment, and enterprise; whom Sir Joseph Banks writes me, he hopes + to engage in the employment of the African association. + + I assure you that I consider you, as the only European that + possesses any substantial and interesting information concerning + that part of interior Africa, which we are most solicitous to + investigate; and, therefore, set a high value upon whatever you are + so good as to communicate. I am also of opinion, that your plans + may very probably be adopted by administration, when the return of + peace shall leave their minds at liberty to attend to it. +103 + + LETTER XII. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + 5th May, 1801. + My dear Sir, + + I wrote you at considerable length on the 1st of June last, and + assure you that none of your letters, received prior to that date, + have remained unanswered. I have now to acknowledge the receipt of + your several favours, and beg you to accept my best thanks, for + your very curious and valuable present of the gold ring from + Wangara, which has been shown to several persons of great + distinction, and even to the king himself. _It is universally + considered as a great curiosity_; and I have taken care to make it + known that you are the person to whom I am indebted, for the first + _Wangarian_ jewel that has ever been seen in England. I have also + shown your letter, containing your judicious opinions upon the + course of the Niger[110], and other geographical points, to Sir + Joseph Banks and Major Rennell; and have invariably represented you + to them, and to others, as the person possessing eminently the best + information concerning the interior of Africa; an object which + draws at present the earnest attention, both of the learned and the +104 great, and which our late victories in Egypt, render more + peculiarly interesting. + + [Footnote 110: See Jackson's account of Marocco, last chapter.] + + I think, with you, it is probable there is a communication by water + between Jinnie and Egypt; but I should rather imagine there is some + large lake or Mediterranean sea, like the Caspian, for instance, + into which the Niger may discharge itself from the west, and a + branch of the Nile from the east. This idea seems to reconcile the + opinions of ancient geographers, with those resulting from modern + discoveries. If we should be able to effect the complete conquest + of Egypt, and to retain that kingdom, much light will probably soon + be acquired upon these interesting subjects. +105 + + LETTER XIII. + + _Journey from Mogodor, to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of + Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, to the Ruins of Pharaoh, + and thence through the Amorite Country to L'Araich and + Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as my_ (Tabuk) _Cook, + ana Deeb as my_ (Mûle Lukkerzana) _Tent Master.--Exportation of + Wool granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the + Plague.--Arabs, their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations + respecting the River Tansift.--Jerf El Eûdie, or the Jews' + Pass.--Description of Saffy, and its Port or Road.--Woladia + calculated to make a safe Harbour.--Growth of Tobacco.--Mazagan + described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet Urtemma a dangerous + Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described.--Mausoleum of + the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of Shella, a Roman + Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of Rabat.--Productive Country + about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to Christians.--The + Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait Zimurh, + notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country disturbed + with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City and + its imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely + beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the + Fakeers of the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected + from the English in the Event of an Invasion by + Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of Benediction by the Fakeers at +106 my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of Pharaoh near the + Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.--The Descendants of + the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these People.--Various Tribes + of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar Kabeer.--Its Environs, a + beautiful Country.--Forest of L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of + Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as Imitations of Amber.--Grand + Entry of the British Ambassador into Tangier.--Our Ignorance of + African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces of his + Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Tangier, + 8th August, 1801. + Dear sir, + + My journey to meet His Excellency James M. Matra, the British + ambassador to the Court of Marocco, was undertaken principally to + obtain permission to ship a large quantity of wool which I had in + my possession, the exportation of which had been recently + prohibited. I thought I could not select a more seasonable time + than when our ambassador was at court; accordingly, I started from + Mogodor (the morning after I dispatched two vessels for Europe) on + the 4th June last, at four o'clock, P.M. My journey was first to + Rabat; thence, across the country, to Fas and Mequinas; thence to + the renowned and revered sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, on the + declivity of the mountains of Atlas, east of Mequinas; thence to + _Kassar Farawan_ (the ruins of Pharaoh), and through the warlike +107 province of the Ait Amor, to L'Araich, Arzilla, and to Tangier. + + I took with me two of the finest horses in the country, to ride + alternately. Two mules and three camels carried my baggage, tents, + &c. Muhamed of Diabet, commonly called _Deeb_, I engaged as + tent-master; this is the man that astonished Aly Bey El Abassy, + when he shot the fish in the river, as recorded by that interesting + traveller. I engaged a most excellent fellow as cook, a man who had + performed many journies in a similar capacity with the princes; he + was acquainted with the roads, the country, and the character of + the people; the camel-drivers and muleteers completed our party. + We arrived at Tela at nine o'clock in the evening, being a journey + of five hours. We remained at Tela the whole of the following day, + and started on the 6th June at seven o'clock; arrived, at ten + o'clock, at Akkermute, a town in ruins, in the plains west of + _Jebbel El Heddeed_ (the iron mountains), which was depopulated by + the plague about fifty years since. Passing through the plains of + Akkermute, towards the river Tensift, we saw a party of Arabs + hunting partridges; we did not stop to see this novel sport, but I + was informed that the dogs were directed by the huntsmen to the + spot where the birds settled, which roused them; they then pursued + them again, and after rousing them several times without + intermission, the birds become fatigued and exhausted by continual +108 flying, and the dogs then run them down and seize on them. In six + hours from Akkermute, at four o'clock, P.M., we reached the river + Tensift, which brings its water from the Atlas, east of Marocco, + meandering through the plains and passing about three miles north + of that city. + + We pitched our tents under the walls of the (_Luksebba_) castle, on + the south bank of the river. + + We started the next morning at six o'clock, and travelling through + a fine country, we came to a narrow pass on the declivity of a + lofty mountain called Jerf El Eudie, a most picturesque country, + and arrived at the port of Saffy at eleven o'clock. Saffy has no + harbour, but a road where ships are obliged to put to sea whenever + the south-wind blows; the town was fortified when in possession of + the Portuguese, and is situated in a declivity between two hills, + so that during the rainy season the waters come down so rapidly + that they sometimes overflow the lower apartments of the houses and + commit considerable damage. On the 8th June we started from Saffy + at nine o'clock, and arrived at the sanctuary of Seedi Cuscasoe at + five o'clock, P.M.; and proceeding on, we reached El Woladia at + nine, and pitched our tents. This place might be made a secure + harbour for the whole British navy, by blowing up a rock which + impedes the narrow passage at the entrance of a long and extensive + bay. From hence we started at half-past five o'clock in the + morning; we proceeded northwards along the coast till eleven +109 o'clock, when we reached the beautiful and abundant valley, the + Woolga; travelling on through the country, leaving the sea to the + left, we arrived at six o'clock at the Douar, (an encampment of + Arabs,) called _Woled Aisah, i.e._ "Sons of Jesus," situated in the + productive province of Duquella. The environs of the Douar of Woled + Aisah abound in plantations of tobacco, of a superior quality, + equal to the Havannah. The next morning, viz. on the 10th June, we + struck our tents at six o'clock, and travelling three hours we + arrived, at nine, at the _Jerf el Saffer_ (the Yellow Cliff): three + hours more brought us to Tet, and an hour more to Mazagan, which we + reached at one o'clock. Mazagan is the Portuguese name; the Moorish + name is El Burreja. This is a very strong place, having several + stout bastions; there is a magnificent (_mitfere_) cistern of + water, built by the Portuguese, supported by many pillars of great + strength of the Tuscan order. The water in the neighbourhood of + Mazagan is very salubrious; this country is full of springs. The + inhabitants have a good healthy colour, very different from the + inhabitants of the plains of the province of Duquella, which being + supplied by water from wells only, of from 100 to 200 feet deep, + have a sallow and sickly appearance. It may, in Europe, appear + extraordinary that the quality of water should produce such a + manifest difference in the complexion of the inhabitants, but when + we consider that these people drink no wine, spirits, or malt +110 liquor, the paradox will immediately vanish. After viewing the + mitfere, or cistern, and batteries at Mazagan, we mounted at four + o'clock, and arrived at Azamor at seven o'clock P.M., pitched the + tents in a large spacious fondaque, or caravansera, in the centre + of the town. We were annoyed during the night by thousands of + storks, the cluttering of whose bills would not permit us to sleep. + This town is in the centre of a beautiful country. On the 11th + June, at noon, we pursued our journey, and reached Sancet Urtemma + at eight o'clock P.M. This is a dangerous country, infested with + robbers, who, from the undulating face of the country, have many + modes of escape; we, therefore, retired into a solitary retreat, + and lay on our arms, without sleep, all night. At six o'clock next + morning, being the 12th June, we started, and arrived at Dar el + Beida at twelve. Here I was hospitably entertained by the agents of + the Spanish house of the Cinquo Gremos of Madrid, who were + established here for the purpose of shipping corn to Spain. We left + Dar el Beida, at half-past three, and reached Fedalla at half-past + seven. This is a fine productive country, abounding in grain as + well as Dar el Beida. On the 13th we started at four o'clock, and + reached El Mensoria at seven; stopped and dined, mounted at ten + A.M. and arrived at Rabat at seven o'clock, P.M. after a journey + from Mogodor, of 80-1/2 hours of actual travelling, or 242 English + miles.[111] + + [Footnote 111: Calculated at the rate of three miles an hour, + including stoppages and refreshments.] +111 + Rabat is the largest town on the coast of the empire, it is walled + round; its circumference is about four miles; an aqueduct conveys + abundance of water to the town from a distance of several miles. + The mausoleum of the sultan Muhamed, father to the present sultan + Soliman, is in the town of Rabat, it is a neat building, surrounded + by a colonade; here is a lamp continually burning, and a + _muden_[112], who is a fakeer, is continually proclaiming the + omnipotence of God, and that Muhamed is the prophet. "_La Allah, + ila Allah, wa Muhamed rassul Allah._" There is a very strong + battery towards the sea, at the mouth of the river, which is bomb + proof. The city wall is high, and is strengthened by several + bastions mounting cannon: towards the land, about a mile from + Rabat, there is a spring, reported to have been discovered by the + Romans, and near it is the Roman town of Shella, which none but + musulmen are permitted to enter. In it are said to be the tombs of + two sultans, but most probably of Roman generals. Kettles or pans + of coins are continually found by the people who dig the ground at + this place, and the coins found are Roman. Some European travellers + enhanced the price of these coins so much, by their eagerness to + purchase them, that they offered more than double their intrinsic +112 value, so that the Jews imitated them so well that they deceived + even these antiquaries. There are several mosques in this town, but + that which attracts particularly the notice of travellers, is the + _sma Hassan, i.e._ the tower of Hassan, situated about a mile from + Shella, on the south banks of the river Buregreg, so called from + its being in the province of Beny Hassan, it is an old tower built + in a superior manner by an architect of Grenada, the same that + built the tower at Marocco, called _Jamaa Lifenar_, one at + Timbuctoo, and that at Seville; it is about 200 feet high, + perfectly square, and a person may ride up to the top on horseback, + having a gradual ascent, and seven chambers one above the other: + the cement with which it is made is so hardened that no pickaxe can + destroy it. It was represented to the sultan Muhamed that the + apartments in this tower were the haunts of vice and immorality, + and the sultan ordered the floor or terras, by which visitors + ascend, to be broken; it was found, however, impossible to destroy + it, wherefore the workmen were ordered to desist, and the entrance + was blocked up with loose stones. This tower I ascended with my + friend the Comte de Fourban, nephew to the duke de Crillon, who + conducted the famous siege of Gibraltar, and whose machinations + were so admirably defeated by the immortal governor of that + garrison, General Elliott, Lord Heathfield. The Comte had ruined + his constitution by being immolated in a dungeon in France, during +113 the reign of Robespierre, where he remained during fifteen months, + oftentimes seated on steps in water up to his ankles. The Comte was + a very generous and liberal man, an emigrant French nobleman, + protected by the British consul at the court of Morocco. The + disorder contracted by ill usage and confinement in prison, brought + on a disease which, after applying various remedies to no purpose, + carried him off, and he died at Rabat. The house of the French + consul and those of some other European consuls who formerly + resided here, are conveniently situated on the southern banks of + the river Buregreg, which divides Rabat from Salee. Ships of one + hundred tons, that do not draw much water, may pass the bar and + load close to these houses; but larger vessels must come to anchor + in the offing, and take in their cargoes by boats. The country + about Rabat and Salee is wonderfully abundant in all the finest + grain, leguminous plants, fruits, vegetables, and cattle; the + orange, lemon, Seville, or bitter orange, and citron plantations + are here very extensive and extremely productive. Several ships + might be loaded here with oranges in October and November, before + the gales of the latter half of December and the month of January + set in. One hundred fine large oranges may be had for a drahim, a + silver coin worth 6_d._ sterling. The orange plantations of Rabat + are of incalculable extent; the trees are as large as a + middling-sized oak; the vineyards and cotton plantations are + likewise most abundant; and nothing can exceed the good quality of +114 the grapes, figs, oranges, citrons, apricots, peaches, and + water-melons; the quality of the latter is peculiarly _sweet_, they + are called _Dilla Seed Billa_; the seed of which might be + advantageously transported to our new colony, the Cape of Good + Hope. The vineyards of Rabat are very extensive; the vines are + cultivated in the Arabian system, on the ground, which is a light + sandy soil: the immense numbers of turtle-doves that are in these + vineyards is such, that a bad sportsman cannot fail killing a dozen + or two at every shot; they rise just before you in thousands, and + the foulahs, or vine cultivators, express their gratitude to the + Christians who go to shoot them. These birds, from being + unmolested, are so tame and so abundant, that they destroy an + incalculable quantity of the best fruit. + + [Footnote 112: The muden is the man who ascends the tower of + the Mosque and announces prayer.] + + On the 14th, the Comte de Fourban accompanied me, and we crossed + the river, in the ferry, to visit Salee. The inhabitants of this + town are inimical to Christians: we viewed the subterraneous cavern + where the Sallee rovers formerly confined their Christian slaves: + it resembled a mitfere or large subterraneous granary; it had two + grates to let in the air; it appeared perfectly dry, but no one was + in it. The Comte observed that it was far preferable to the prison + where he was confined in France, during the reign or usurpation of + Robespierre. The air of Salee and Rabat, and the adjacent country, +115 is strongly perfumed, morning and evening, with the sweet odour of + the orange-flower, of which they make immense quantities of + delectable comfits. + + On the morning of the 15th, we pursued our journey to Mequinas, + passing through a very fine country, inhabited by a Kabyl of + Berebbers, called Ait Zemurh. We halted, at four o'clock P.M. at a + circular Douar of these Berebbers, in a fine campaign country. The + next morning, at five o'clock, we struck the tents, and proceeded + through a dangerous country, infested by artful robbers, and the + occasional depredations of the lion and other wild beasts, whose + roaring we heard at a distance. We saw several square buildings, + which our guides informed us were built by the Berebbers, for the + purpose of destroying the lion. The patient hunter will conceal + himself in one of these buildings, which are about five feet by + seven, and will wait whole days for an opportunity to get a shot at + the lion: these noble beasts are here said to be the largest in all + Africa. After travelling this day ten hours, we pitched our tents + at another circular encampment of the Zimurite[113] Berebbers. + These people drive in stakes and place thorny bushes round their + encampment, eight feet high, and fill up the entrance every night + with thorns, as the fiercest lions of Africa abound in the adjacent + forests, and sometimes attack their habitations, accordingly they +116 keep a large fire all night to deter the lions and other wild + beasts from approaching. About two hours after midnight, my grey + horse, who was an old campaigner, neighed and awoke us; this gave + the alarm, and my people were presently on the alert, and perceived + two men approaching our tents, crawling naked along the ground, + which was of the same colour with their bodies. We did not wish to + take them, fearing that the people of the Douar would espouse the + cause of their countrymen, but my people gave the alarm, and + exclaimed "_Erd abellek asas_," i.e. "Be watchful, guards!" We then + saw these marauders jump up, and run away as fast as they could; + keeping watch the rest of the night: we were advised to take no + notice of this circumstance. The people of Ait Zimurh are professed + robbers: they would not allow us to pitch our tents _within_ their + circular encampment, a privilege universally granted to strangers + and travellers. I thought this very unhospitable; being totally + different from any thing I had ever before witnessed in this + country, where hospitality generally exceeds all bounds. I have no + doubt that the people of the Douar were in league with the robbers; + I considered my escape, the next day, when I was apprised of the + danger of the country I had confided in, quite providential, and I + have no doubt but these people would delude any one that would + trust to their honour: they reminded me of the ancient Africans, as + described by Sallust, in the wars of Jugurtha. + + [Footnote 113: The Zimurites, or Ait Zimure, are probably the + descendants of the Zemarites: for which see 1 Chron. i. 16.] +117 + We struck our tents at five o'clock, and travelled very fast to get + out of these treacherous habitations; for we learned that, the + preceding night, Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy, a Negro captain of the + emperor's army, passed this Douar, and was robbed of his bridles, + saddles, and tent equipage, with which the thieves made off, + without being discovered. I afterwards met Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy at + Mequinas; and he appeared quite astonished that I should have + escaped being robbed at the above Douar, calling the whole Kabyl a + set of lawless thieves. On the 17th, we started at five o'clock, + and arrived at Mequinas at nine o'clock, performing the journey + from Rabat to Mequinas in twenty-two hours, being sixty-six miles. + The city of Mequinas is the court-town of the northern division of + the empire: the imperial palace at this place is above two miles in + circumference. At the corners are erected (_Coba's_) square + buildings or pavilions, containing one room up stairs, where the + emperor frequently transacts business. This palace was built by the + sultan Muley Ismael: it is very neat, and consists for the most + part of moresque architecture; the marble columns and other + decorations were brought from (_Kasser Farawan_) the ruins of + Pharaoh, about a day's journey to the eastward. There is a superior + garden of choice fruit within the wall which surrounds the palace, + and in the latter are many elegant apartments, ornamented + _À-la-mauresque_. The ladies of Mequinas are so extremely handsome, +118 that I cannot say I saw one plain young woman, although I visited + several families; nay, I can say, without offense to truth, that I + did not see one that was not comely and handsome. I was most + hospitably entertained wherever I went. On the 18th June, at eight + o'clock A.M. we started for Fas; when we had approached the latter + city, we met a messenger, with the prince Muley Abdsalam's + secretary, from the emperor to his excellency J.M. Matra, the + British ambassador to the court of Marocco, who informed me that + his excellency had just terminated his embassy, had waited for my + arrival two days, and was on his return to Tangier. Presuming, + therefore, that the ambassador had negociated my business for me, I + turned to the north-east, travelled all day without halting, till + eight o'clock in the evening, when we arrived at the renowned + sanctuary[114] of Muley Dris Zerone, on the declivity of North + Atlas; a most magnificent, beautiful, and picturesque country, + abounding in all the necessaries and luxuries of life. This + sanctuary was never before, nor since, visited by any Christian. It + was here that the standard of Muhamed was first planted in + North-western Africa, by the fakeer and prince Muley Dris, the + founder. A favourable combination of circumstances, of which I + availed myself, enabled me to procure not only an asylum, but a +119 most hospitable and kind reception and entertainment in this + renowned sanctuary; and I actually slept in the _Horem_ or Adytum + itself, which honour I obtained by a present, appropriated to the + circumstance, and sent to the chief fakeer of the sanctuary, + accompanied with some observations expressed in a manner which was + agreeable to the holy fraternity. When I entered the _Horem_ of + this renowned sanctuary, where I slept alone, its silence reminded + me of the silence of death, which formed one of the ancient + mysteries of Egypt. The chief of the fakeers met me in the portico, + and cordially shook hands with me, calling me his brother. At this + time there was a rumour that Bonaparte was preparing to invade the + country; and indeed he had intimated as much, the English were + therefore courted; it was even hoped and expected by the emperor + that they would in such an event become his allies, and give him + succour. The next morning, I gave the fakeer some wax candles + accompanied with observations emblematical of the present, which + was so favourably received, that no less than nine saints + prostrated themselves at the place of prayer, which is at the + entrance of the town, as I passed out to pursue my journey, + uttering with audible voices a (_fâtha_) prayer of benediction, + invoking on me the protection of Almighty God, and a blessing on + the English nation; also that God would avert every danger from the + embassy, and restore them in safety to their native land. I am +120 perfectly aware that, in recording this extraordinary circumstance, + persons who have visited this country, and have remarked the + rancour that generally exists with the lower orders against + Christians, may doubt my veracity, so unprecedented a circumstance + it is for a Christian to be admitted into a _Horem_! the most + respected also and the most sacred in the empire! My answer to such + is, that the circumstance is so incredible, that I should not have + presumed to lay it before the British public, if I had not two most + respectable witnesses, _now living_ in West Barbary, who can and + will corroborate my report; these two men are Bel Hage, a Muselman, + who had been the prince's cook, and who officiated as mine during + the journey, and Muhamed, commonly called Deeb, of Diabet, a + village near Mogodor, the same man whose dexterity Aly Bey, in his + travels, alludes to, when he shot a fish in the river near Mogodor. + + [Footnote 114: The town, in the centre of which stands the + sanctuary, contains about 5000 inhabitants.] + + Half an hour's journey after leaving the sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone, and at the foot of Atlas, I perceived to the left of the + road magnificent and massive ruins; the country for miles around is + covered with broken columns of white marble, the ruins appeared to + be of the Egyptian, and massive style of architecture. There were + still standing two porticos, about thirty feet high and twelve feet + wide, the top of which was one entire stone. I attempted to take a + view of these immense ruins, which have furnished marble for the +121 imperial palaces at Mequinas and at Tafilelt; but I was obliged to + desist, seeing some persons of the sanctuary following the + cavalcade. Pots and kettles of gold and silver coins are + continually dug up from these ruins. The country, however, abounds + in serpents, and we saw many scorpions under the stones that my + conductor Deeb turned up. These ruins are said by the Africans to + have been built by one of the Pharaohs: they are called "_Kasser + Farawan_" i.e. the ruins of Pharaoh.[115] Here begins the territory +122 of the Brebber Kabyl, the Amorites or Ite-amor, said to be the + descendants of the ancient[116] Amorites, whose country was + situated east of Palestine. These people retain their ancient + warlike spirit, but they are a faithless tribe, and intolerable + thieves, unlike the other Kabyles (who are, at least, faithful to + one of their own Kabyl); but these marauders are exceedingly + mistrustful of their own brethren, so that their habitations + consist of two or three tents only, in one encampment; and even + these are sometimes at variance with each other. The lamentable +123 result of this mistrustful and marauding spirit, is wretched and + universal poverty. Their country is a succession of gentle + undulating hills, without trees or plantations of any kind. The + late sultan Muhamed used to compare the provinces or races of men + in his empire, to the nations of Europe, the English he called + warriors, the French faithless, the Spaniards quiet and + inoffensive, the Romans, i.e. the people of Italy, treacherous, the + Dutch a parsimonious and trading people; the other powers of + Europe, having no consul at Marocco, nor merchants in the country, + are known only by name: accordingly, in allusion to the warlike + spirit of the English, he would call the Ait Amor, "the English of + Barbary;" Temsena, the French; Duquella, the Spanish; Haha, the + Italians; and Suse, the Russians. When the sultan Muhamed began a + campaign, he never entered the field without the warlike Ait Amor, + who marched in the rear of the army; these people received no pay, + but were satisfied with what plunder they got after a battle; and + accordingly, this principle stimulating them, they were always + foremost on any contest, dispute, or battle. They begin the + campaign almost in a state of nudity, and seldom return to their + homes without abundance of apparel, arms, horses, camels, and + money; but this property quickly disappears, and these people are + soon again reduced to their wonted misery and nudity, and become +124 impatient for another campaign of plunder. When the present sultan, + Soliman, came from Mequinas, in the year of the plague (1799), a + division of his army passed near Mogodor, and the encampments of + the Ait Amor, or Amorites occupied the whole of the country from + the river to the Commerce Garden, a distance of three miles. It is + very probable that some other of the tribes bordering on Palestine, + may have emigrated in remote times, and may have taken their abode + on the Atlas mountains. There are above twenty (kabyls) tribes + of[117] Berebbers occupying the mountains of Atlas, as Ait-Girwan, + Zian, Ait-Ziltan, Ait-Amor, Ait-Ebeko, Ait-Kitiwa, Ait-Attar, + Ait-Amaran, and many more whose names I do not now recollect. We + travelled seven hours through the Amorite country, and pitched our + tents in the north part of the plains of Msharrah Rummellah. Fire + being lit, the Moors sat round to warm themselves, and confidently + animadverted on the prosperity that would necessarily attend our + journey, after having met with such a hospitable and favoured + reception at the renowned sanctuary before mentioned. + + [Footnote 115: In reply to those learned sceptics who have + studied books; but not men, and the manners of different + countries; who believe nothing but what they have seen; and who + say that Pharaoh never came so far west; I reply, that our + knowledge of African history is extremely imperfect. In fact, + we now know as certainties, various articles of which no record + is to be found in any ancient writer; for the affairs of + Africa, which, of late, have so deservedly excited the + attention of the learned, were as little known to the ancients + as they are to the moderns; insomuch that not a word is to be + found in any ancient record or history extant, of those curious + astronomical representations, the Zodiacs, which adorn the + ceilings of the temples in _Egypt_, nor of the paintings which + cover the silent and solemn repositories of their dead. Even + the royal sepulchres, surpassing all the efforts of art + hitherto known, in brilliancy of colours and decorative + sculptures, are recorded by no historian! Neither in any + history, _known to Europe_, is there any allusion to the + Egyptian custom of placing books, i.e. rolls of manuscript, in + the mummy coffins with the bodies of the deceased. For much of + the knowledge collected respecting Africa, we are indebted to + the catacombs of Egypt, and we must not hope to know much more, + whilst our ignorance of the Arabic language is so manifest; we + must travel far out of the precincts of Greek and Latin lore, + before we shall procure correct histories of African affairs! + Our knowledge of Hebrew, in Europe I apprehend, is almost as + much confined and as imperfect as that of Arabic! By the + assistance, however, of the latter, what store of learning + might we not expect from complete Arabic translations of many + of the Greek and Latin authors, _viz._ of the _complete_ works + of Livy, Tacitus, and many others. I recollect conversing with + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, (a gentleman deeply + versed in Arabian literature,) about the close of the last + century, who mentioned circumstances, which gave me reason to + suppose that there is extant a complete Arabic translation of + Livy as well as of Tacitus, as the bashaw assured me there was, + and that he had read them, and they were to be found in the + recondite chests of the Imperial library at Fas, in which it is + more than probable that there are many valuable transcripts in + Arabic of ancient authors, quite lost to erudite Europe! A + knowledge of the Arabic language in this country is so + indispensable, and is held in such high estimation, that every + one who does not understand it, is denominated _ajemmy_, _i.e._ + barbarian or European.--St. Paul in the same spirit says, I + Corinth. ch. xiv. v. 11., "He that speaketh unintelligibly, is + unto us a barbarian."] + + [Footnote 116: See Genesis, xv. 16. Deuteron. xx. 17. Judges, + i. 34.] + + [Footnote 117: Some persons consider several tribes of these + Berebbers to be colonies of the ancient Phenicians.] + + On the morning of the 20th June, we struck our tents at six + o'clock, and pursued our journey to L'Araich, and soon entered the + territory that belongs to the agriculturists of El Kassar Kabeer, a +125 beautiful country not unlike that of Ait-Amor in appearance, but + bearing the evidences of agricultural industry. Here we discovered + magnificent and extensive plantations of olives, immense + citron-trees, orange-groves, and spacious vineyards, peaches, + apricots, greengages, and walnuts were also the produce of this + country, besides excellent wheat of a large and long transparent + grain like amber, yielding, when ground into flour, from fifteen to + twenty per cent. increase, in quantity. Anxious now to overtake His + Excellency the ambassador, for the purpose of being present at his + entry into Tangier, we accelerated our pace, with a view of coming + up with him at L'Araich. We arrived at the forest of L'Araich at + dusk, and travelled through it all night till five o'clock next + morning. + + Having travelled incessantly twenty-three hours without halting, + being much fatigued, I desired Deeb to take a little rest with me + in an adjacent field, and we sent on Bel Hage with the baggage to + L'Araich, to wait our arrival at the ferry. We pursued our journey + at seven o'clock, and entered the town at nine. On reaching the + ferry, Bel Hage introduced a courier, who had been dispatched to me + from Fas, by a friend of mine, who informed me how much he, and + many of my Moorish friends had been disappointed, that I did not + enter that city, where I understood preparations had been made for + my entertainment, in the odoriferous gardens of the merchants of +126 Fas. The courier brought me a present of gold wire and gold thread, + of the manufacture of Fas, and some gold ornaments of filligrane + work from Timbuctoo, of the manufacture of Jinnie. It is more than + probable that the Fasees learned the art of manufacturing gold + thread from the Egyptians: it is much superior to that which is + imported into Barbary from Marseilles. The ladies ornament their + cambric dresses with it, and the Fas gold-thread never loses its + colour by washing, but the French does; the Fas gold thread wears + also much better, and is more durable; the change of colour may + possibly originate from the great proportion of alloy in the gold + of the French manufacture, whereas that of Fas, according to an + imperial edict, must be of a certain fineness, approaching to pure + gold; the gold wire of which it is made being first assayed by the + (_M'tasseb_) supervisor of manufactures. Great quantities of gold + thread are used in the elegant shawls and sashes of silk and gold + made at Fas, the better kind of which are reserved for princes and + bashaws, in which they use, as before observed, the Fas thread + only. They manufacture also at Fas, a very correct imitation of + amber-beads, impossible to be discriminated by the best judges, but + by rubbing the artificial amber, and then applying it to a bit of + cotton; the latter does not adhere, but the natural amber attracts + the cotton as a magnet does iron; and this is the discriminating + criterion whereby to distinguish them. +127 + But, to return to our journey, we found the ambassador had passed + the preceding day, we therefore crossed the river, and travelled on + till nine o'clock at night, when, after being a-horseback + thirty-four hours, refreshed only by two hours' sleep, we came up + with the ambassadors, Cafila, and guard, in a fine open campaign + country, half-way between Tangier and Arzilla; and soon after I + received a courier from Sir Pieter Wyk, Swedish consul-general to + the empire residing at Tangier, with a very friendly invitation to + his house and table, which being the first offer and from a sincere + and worthy friend, I with pleasure accepted it, and returned the + express immediately. On the morning of the 22d June, I breakfasted + at five o'clock with the ambassador, and, discussing with him my + business, I learned that he had terminated it to my satisfaction. + We started together at seven o'clock, and moved slowly on towards + Tangier, it having been ordered by the emperor, that the English + ambassador's entry into that town should be marked with every + possible honour and attention. An hour before we reached Tangier, + the governor, with the whole garrison, came out to salute and greet + the ambassador, the cavalry running full gallop, and firing their + muskets, as is the custom with them in all rejoicings. At half-past + eleven the cannon of Tangier began to announce the ambassador's + arrival, and continued, not a royal salute, but every gun in + Tangier was discharged; and at twelve o'clock we entered the gates. +128 + + LETTER XIV. + + _Result of the British Embassy_. + + FROM HIS EXCELLENCY J.M. MATRA TO MR. J. + + Old Fez, Sunday night, June 14, 1801. + + Dear Jackson; + + After a most unpleasant and tedious negotiation of nine days, I + have just finished my business. I march off early to-morrow + morning, and am much employed in packing up, translating, and + copying of papers. + + The letter I solicited for you is just brought to me, mixed with + Mr. Foxcroft's business, and the provision for the shipping in + Mogadore; but the Talb promises to bring me a separate one very + early in the morning, when I will inclose it to you. + + _Through the interest of Muly Abdel-melk-ben Driss, the orders were + some time since sent to Mogadore, to reduce your new duty to the + old standard of Seedi Muhamed_. + + I have been treated by the emperor like a prince, and with a + friendly personal attention I had no idea of; but my business has + been marvellously tormented. Of that, as we are to meet soon, I + will say no more. I am half dead. + + God bless you. + J. MATRA. +129 + + LETTER XV. + + _European Society at Tangier.--Sects and Divisions among Christians + in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the Propagation of Christianity, + and casts a Contempt upon Christians themselves.--The Cause of + it.--The Conversion of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation of + the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians themselves, as an + Example eligible to follow_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + It is not only the duty, but it is the manifest policy of + Christians who reside in Muhamedan countries, to preserve that + peace and harmony that is so often inculcated by our divine Master: + there should be no followers of Paul or of Apollos, of the Pope or + of Luther, but Christians altogether should forget sects, and + become followers of Christ, by practising his divine and luminous + doctrine. This principle, strictly adhered to, would have greater + effect in propagating the Christian doctrine, than the united + efforts, however arduous, of all the missionaries in Africa. We + should first begin by reforming the manners of those Christians who + are established in Muhamedan countries, holding responsible + situations, so as to show the Muhamedans, by their harmony and good + will, the advantages of the benign influence of the great Christian + principle, "Love thy neighbour as thyself." Until the disgraceful +130 animosity lamentably prevalent between the Catholic and Protestant, + the Lutheran, Calvinist, and other sects of Christians be + annihilated, it cannot be expected by any reasonable and reflecting + mind, that essential progress can be made in the propagation of + Christianity in Africa, at least in the Muhamedan part of it. We + must purify our own actions, and set a laudable example of chaste + and virtuous conduct, as a prelude to the conversion of the people + of this continent. The Africans, viz. the Arabs, Berebbers, + Shelluhs, Moors, and Negroes are, _generally_ speaking, shrewd, + acute, discerning races of men; and it cannot be supposed by any + but insane enthusiasts, that the doctrines of Christ can be + propagated in those countries, until an example be set for their + imitation better than their own practice, and more conformable to + the true Christian doctrine than any that has hitherto been offered + for their imitation. + + Tangier is the residence of the consuls-general of all the nations + of Europe, who send occasionally ambassadors to the Court of + Marocco; and these gentlemen generally act as envoys or ministers, + as well as consuls. The English, French, Dutch, American, Spanish, + Portuguese, Swedish, and Danish consuls reside here, some with + their families, some without. I had not been long here before I + perceived that the Moors of Tangier manifested an extraordinary + contempt for Christians, the general respect which is shown to them + at Mogodor, is unknown here. The reason is evident: the families of +131 these gentlemen were at variance with each other, and the + respective ladies did not visit one another. This circumstance was + too well known to the Moors, and materially contributed to create + among those people that contempt for the Christians, which, + perhaps, is due to all, whatever be their _professed_ doctrines, + who have not charity enough, in the correct acceptation of the + word, to maintain harmony in their own community. I was shocked to + see so many amiable families at variance. I will not declare if it + was pride, ambition, or contention for pre-eminence that produced + this want of harmony; but it is most certain, that Christians, + whose destiny it is to reside among Muhamedans, should have more + than ordinary care to preserve that philanthropic disposition to + each other, which carries with it a high recommendation, + particularly in a country like _West Barbary_, where the gate of + every tent is open to the largest, most disinterested, and + unqualified hospitality, and where the sheik of every douar + considers it his first and indispensable duty to provide food and + rest to the needy traveller, and to the stranger at his gate. +132 + + LETTER XVI. + + _Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, showing the Distances + from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic Ocean; useful to + Persons travelling in that Country_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Mogodor, 1801. + + If you should ever come to this country, and have occasion to + travel through it, the following journal of a journey from Tangier + to Mogodor may be of service to you, in ascertaining the distances + from one port to another, &c. + + Departed from Tangier for Mogodor, + July 15, 1801, at 9 o'clock, A.M. Hours. + + Arrived at Arzilla, at 7, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; arrived at L'Araich, + at 2, P.M. 7 + + Started at 5, A.M.; arrived at Ras Doura, + at 3, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 6, A.M.; travelled three hours; + came to a plain, level country, and arrived + at Sallée, at 10 o'clock, P.M. 16 + + Crossed the river in the ferry, and remained + at the French Consul's Hotel, at + Rabat, three days. Mounted at 9; arrived + at El Mensoria, at 9, P.M. 12 +133 + Mounted at 6, A.M.; arrived at Dar El + Beida, at half-past 2, P.M. 8-1/2 + + Proceeded without halting, and arrived at + the Douar of Woled Jeraar, at 9, P.M. + and pitched our tents. 7 + + Mounted at 5, A.M.; arrived at Azamore, + at 7, P.M. 14 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; travelled southward, + leaving Mazagan to the right, and arrived + at the Douar of Woled Aisah, at + 1 o'clock, P.M. and pitched our tents. 6 + + Departed at 7, A.M.; arrived at El Woladia, + at 6, P.M. 11 + + Mounted at 8; arrived at Saffy, at 5. 9 + + Started at 1, P.M.; rode six hours to the + river Tansift; slept at the Sanctuary + near the river. 6 + + Rose at midnight, struck the tents, and + mounted at 1 o'clock, A.M. arrived at + the Sanctuary of Seedi Buzurukton, at + 11. 10 + + Dined, slept, and started again at 4 + o'clock, P.M. and entered Mogodor at + half-past 7 o'clock. 3-1/2 + + 130 + + Average rate of travelling, (including stoppages,) three miles per + hour, 390 miles in 130 hours. +134 + + LETTER XVII. + + _An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to Saffy, during a Civil War, + in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not pass, owing to the + Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and Shedma.--Stratagem + adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger of being + discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and + Compliments received from him on his having accomplished this + perilous Journey_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Mogodor, 1802. + + Having arranged all my affairs, I awaited an opportunity to depart + for England. A Spanish vessel was lying at the port of Saffy, + nearly ready to sail, bound to Cadiz; but how to reach the former + port was the difficulty; the provinces of Shedma and Haha, through + which I must necessarily pass, were at war against each other, and + an army of several thousand men were encamped at Ain el Hajar, a + spring near the road, between Mogodor and Saffy; so that all + communication was cut off, insomuch that it was dangerous, even for + a courier, to attempt to pass from one port to the other. I was + extremely anxious to reach Europe, and I determined to go to Saffy + by land. I accordingly sent for a trusty Arab, whose character for +135 fidelity I had often before proved. I asked him if he would + undertake to conduct me to Saffy. He required a day to consider of + it. He then resolved to attempt it, provided I would adopt the + dress of an Arab, and accompany him: I agreed; and we started from + Mogodor at 4 o'clock; P.M. We passed into a convenient recess, to + change my dress, which being done, we mounted our horses and rode + away; we had not gone two hours, before some scouts of the army + came galloping towards us. Billa (my trusty guide, who was a native + of Shedma, and a man of considerable influence in that province) + and his friend rode off with speed to meet them, and having + satisfied them that we were about business relating to the army, + they returned, and Billa's friend joining me, we inclined our steps + towards the sea, whilst Billa kept guard at a distance; and, + reaching a convenient and solitary retreat, we halted there till + dark; when retracing our steps for a few miles, it was concerted + that I should pass as a wounded man retiring from the army to have + my wounds examined and dressed. Billa was so well acquainted with + the roads, and all the bye-passes of the country, that, travelling + fast over the plains, not on the roads, we soon reached to the + northward of the encampments of Shedma. We passed several + straggling parties from the army, who saluted us with (_Salem u + alikume_) "Peace be to you;" to which we replied ("_Alikume +236 assalam_") "To you peace;" and Billa added "_Elm'joroh_," i.e. a + wounded man. In the old bed of the river Tansift, now full of + bushes of white broom, I narrowly escaped being discovered: as the + day was breaking, a party of Arabs suddenly turned a corner, and I + had just time to cover my mouth and chin with my (_silham_) cloak, + before they gave the salutation, or they would have discovered me + (being without a beard) to be a Christian; we passed the river, + however, perfectly safe, and were then soon in the province of + Abda, when all danger was at an end; we entered the town of Saffy, + at two o'clock in the afternoon. The Bashaw of Abda, _Abdrahaman + ben Nassar_, a renowned warrior, who had been at the head of an + army of 60,000 horse, in opposition to the Emperor, Muley Soliman, + received me with his accustomed urbanity and hospitality, and asked + me if I had come to Saffy through the air, or by sea. I replied, I + had come by neither, but by land. "How is it possible," said he, + "that you could come by land, when even a courier could not pass. + Did you meet with no impediment?--you astonish me: but praise be to + God, that you have arrived safe, and you are welcome." +137 + + LETTER XVIII. + + _Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy, in + Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in + Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, + in Suse.--Country infested with rats.--Situation of + Tomie.--Entertainment at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled + Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to entertain his Guests.--Arabian + Dance aud Music.--Manner and Style of Dancing.--Eulogium of the + Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners of the latter.--Their + personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to have a Commercial + Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince respecting + Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various + Articles of Commerce.--Viceroys offer to build a House, and the + Duties.--Contemplated Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold + and Silver Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and + Grapes.---Mode of Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at + Delemy's.--Elegant Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince + prepares to depart for Tafilelt_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, June 7, 1794. + + I received a letter from the[118] Prince Muley Abdsalam, who lately + went from Santa Cruz to the Khalif of Suse, Alkaid Muhamed ben + Delemy, whose castle is in Shtuka. The prince wished to see me on +138 some commercial business that had been suggested to him by the + khalif or viceroy. We (that is, Signor Andrea de Christi, a native + of Italy, and a Dutch merchant established at Santa Cruz, and + myself) prepared our tents and servants, and departed for Shtuka + early in the morning. We passed through a fine campaign country, + occupied by a tribe of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, and arrived, late + at night, at (_Luksebba_) the castle of Delemy, who was also sheik + of an emigration of the Arabs called Woled Abbusebah, and of + another emigration of Arabs called Woled Deleim, who had taken up + their abodes in Shtuka. When we arrived, our reception was in the + true style of Arabian hospitality. Delemy had prepared and had + pitched tents in a large garden adjoining his castle, wherein we + resided. Our own tents were pitched in the Mushoir, or place of + audience, a spacious plain, enclosed by a wall, where the sheik + gave audience to the various kabyls of Suse. The following day we + had an audience of the prince, who requested me to accompany Delemy + to a port of Suse, which had been formerly frequented by European + ships, which took in water there, and ascertain if it were a port + convenient for a commercial establishment. The name of this seaport + was called Tomie by the Portuguese, who formerly had an + establishment there; but by the Arabs, _Sebah Biure_, i.e. the + Seven Wells, because there were seven wells of excellent water +139 there: three of them, however, when we visited this port, were + filled up and useless. We left Delemy's castle in the afternoon, + about two or three o'clock, and we went at a pace called by the + Arabs _el herka_[119], over a plain country infested with rats, and + the haunts of serpents, our horses continually stumbling over the + rat-holes. We were, to the best of my recollection, about four + hours going. We found Tomie, an open road, not altogether + calculated to form an advantageous commercial establishment. Its + situation with respect to the sea being somewhat objectionable. We + sat down near one of the wells, and after Delemy and his guards had + amused themselves with (_lab el borode_) running full gallop and + firing, we drank Hollands till we became gay. The sun had just set, + when we mounted our horses to return. After an hour's _herka_, we + approached a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, who, seeing their + sheik, came forward and kissed his stirrups, entreating him to pass + the night with them, which, it appeared, would have been contrary + to the etiquette of Arabian hospitality to refuse. Delemy, + therefore, asked us if we would consent to sleep there; and, + apologising for not conducting us to our own beds that night, again + intimated, that it was, in a manner, incumbent on him, not to + refuse. We, therefore, consented to stop. This noble-spirited Arab, +140 anxious to entertain us, and justly conceiving that the beds and + habits of these Arabs were very different from what we had been + accustomed to, sought to beguile the time, and accordingly + endeavoured to engage some ladies belonging to the douar to dance, + but they positively declined dancing before Christians. Delemy + expostulated with them, representing the propriety of doing so, + before the prince's guests; but the ladies apologised, by declaring + that their splendid dancing dresses were not made up. Delemy, + however, with the true energy of an Arab, was determined that he + would make our abode here as pleasant as possible, and desirous + also to show us the spirit of Arabian dancing, he went himself, + accompanied by two of his friends, to a douar, at some miles' + distance, and, after much persuasion, he prevailed on six young + ladies to come and dance. In about two hours, the sheik returned, + and informed us, that knowing that beds in the desert would not + suit our customs, he had engaged some young girls to amuse us with + dancing during the night, assuring us at the same time that they + excelled in that graceful art, and he had no doubt they would amuse + us. The tents were cleared and lighted; two sheep were killed, and + the _cuscasoe_ was preparing, when the ladies arrived. The music + consisted of an instrument similar to a flageolet, (_tabla_) a + kettle-drum, and a sort of castanets of steel, an _erbeb_, or + fiddle with two strings, played with a semicircular bow. The tunes +141 were gay and sprightly, and the damsels tripped along on the light + fantastic toe in a very superior and elegant style. They danced + without men; advancing gently at first, apparently without taking + the foot off the ground, but gradually advancing; after which they + performed some steps similar to those in the Spanish bolera; and, + turning round on the toe, they danced a most elegant _shawl_ dance, + equal to what was danced at the Opera in London by Parisot, but + without the horizontal movement, or any motion that could offend + the chastest eye. This unique national dance was encouraged from + time to time by the approbation of twelve captains of the viceroy's + guard, warriors of fame in arms, who were Arabs of the Woled + Deleim, and who were seated in a circle, with us, round the + dancers, expressing their delight and gratification in witnessing + such superior grace and elegance, exclaiming-- + + "Afakume el Arabe, makine fal el Arabe, + El Hashema, u zin, u temara, fie el Arabe." + "Bravo, O Arabs! there is none equal to the Arabs: + Excellent is the modesty, beauty, and virtue of the Arabs." + + [Footnote 118: Elder Brother of the present Emperor of Marocco, + Muley Soliman.] + + [Footnote 119: A pace similar to that which European cavalry go + when charging.] + + These eulogiums were not lost on the ladies, who increased the + spirit of the dance. When this amusement had continued about three + hours, the cuscasoe, meat, and vegetables were brought in, as a + supper. The Moors ate plentifully; but the abstemious Arabs ate + very little; the ladies partook of sweet cakes and dates; they very +142 seldom chew meat, but when they do, they think it gross to swallow + it, they only press the juices from the meat, and throw away the + substance. The manners of these damsels were elegant, accompanied + with much suavity and affability, but very modest and unassuming + withal: indeed, they were all individuals, as I afterwards learned, + belonging to respectable and ancient Arab families, who could not + resist the exhortations of their sheik to amuse and entertain his + guests. The manners of these Arabs, their elegant forms, sparkling + black eyes, long black eye-lashes, which increased the beauty of + the eye, adding character to the countenance, seemed to make an + indelible impression on the whole party. The ladies wore robes of + Indian muslin, girdles of gold thread, interwoven with silk of the + Fas manufacture; and their shawls of silk and gold were displayed + in various elegant devices. We were given to understand by Delemy's + captains, on our return to the sheik's castle, that we had been + entertained with extraordinary honours: we certainly were highly + gratified, and my friend Signor Andrea declared he had never seen + better dancing at Venice, his native place. Among the Arabs was an + old man of ninety, who appeared very desirous of an European + establishment at Tomie. He related several anecdotes of his life; + and, among others, the money he had gained, by purchasing goods of + vessels which came forty or fifty years before to Tomie for water, + with which he said he used to exchange gums and almonds, feathers +143 and ivory, for linens, cloths, and spices. I am disposed to think + these vessels were Portuguese; for this coast is but little known + to the English. The ladies having returned home, we prepared to + leave this douar early in the morning; and with no small regret did + I quit this abode of simple and patriarchal hospitality; a pleasing + contrast was here formed to the dissipation and pleasure of + civilised life--to the life of fashionable society, where the + refinements of luxury have multiplied their artificial wants beyond + the proportion of the largest fortunes, and have brought most men + into the class of the necessitous, inducing that churlish habit of + the mind, in which every feeling is considered as a weakness, which + terminates not in self, unlike those generous sympathies of the + Arabs, where every individual seems impelled to seek, as they + express it, (_ê dire el khere fie nes_) "to do good to men." The + effect of luxury, dissipation, and extravagance, (where the fortune + is not large enough to support them,) tends to render man selfish + upon principle, and extinguishes all genuine public spirit, that + is, all real regard to the interests and good order of society; + substituting in its place, the vile ambition and rapacity of the + demagogue, which, however, assumes the name of patriotism. This + contrast between the temperance and sobriety of these Bedouin or + primitive Arabs, and the luxury and dissipation of civilised life, + was the more remarkable, when we observed among this rude people + such extraordinary and mutual exercise of benevolence, manly and +144 open presence, honesty and truth in their words and actions.--On + our return to Delemy's castle, in Shtuka, the Prince asked me, what + observations I had made respecting Tomie; I told his Royal Highness + that it was an open roadstead, and not a convenient place for ships + to lie. The Prince appeared pleased at this report; but Delemy had + rendered to Muley Abdsalam so many essential services, that the + latter could not, in courtesy, refuse him any thing. When Delemy + found that my report to the Prince did not realise his + expectations, offers were made to me, supported by every possible + encouragement, to form a commercial establishment at Tomie, which, + as was observed, being advantageously situated for trade, being in + the neighbourhood of the gum, almond, and oil countries, would + offer advantages to the merchants which they could not expect at + Santa Cruz, or Mogodor. Accordingly, I was urged to send to Europe + for ships, with assurances that the duty on all imports, as well as + exports, should be only two per cent. _ad valorem_. A house was + offered to be built for me, according to any plan I might choose to + suggest, free of expense. The people were desirous of having a + commercial establishment in their country, and would have done any + thing to accomplish this object. The extensive connections which I + had throughout Suse, Sahara, and even at Timbuctoo, would have + facilitated my operations; but my connections in England were not + such as to enable me to engage advantageously in this enterprise, I + was obliged, therefore, though reluctantly, to decline it, +145 although, if otherwise situated, I might have realised an + independent fortune in two or three years at Tomie, besides having + a most favourable opportunity of opening a trade with Timbuctoo, + and other territories of Sudan. + + I now felt a strong inclination to visit the port of Messa, which + was reported to have been about two centuries before, a + considerable port of trade, and the capital of Suse, when that + country was a separate kingdom, and the state-prisoners were + banished to Sejin-messa[120], (commonly called Segelmessa in the + maps;) as the state prisoners of Marocco have been from time + immemorial, and are to this day sent to Tafilelt, which territory + lies contiguous to, and west of Sejin-messa. We started for Messa + in the morning, and reached the town in the afternoon. Delemy sent + a strong guard with me for protection, with an injunction to his + friend the _fakeer_ of Messa, to treat me as his friend and guest, + and to do whatever he could to gratify my curiosity in every + respect. The country about Messa is very picturesque, and + productive: the river also abounds with romantic scenery, it has a + sandbar at its entrance to the ocean, which is dry at low water; + but it was once navigable several miles up, as was reported to me. + On the south bank of the river, about two miles from the sea, is a +146 gold-mine, in the territory of a tribe hostile to Delemy, but the + influence of the Fakeer, who is held in reverential awe, enabled us + to examine it without danger. What they told us was the entrance, + was filled with immense large pieces of rock-stone; and I was + informed, that when the Christians left the place, (the Portuguese, + no doubt,) they placed these stones at the entrance of the mine, to + prevent the natives from getting access to it. In the bed of the + river, near the sea, is a mine of silver; the ore is in very small + particles, like lead-coloured sand, intermixed with mud. I sent a + small quantity of this to England to be analysed; and it produced, + as I was informed, just enough to pay the expenses of analysation. + I sent also several specimens of gold and silver ore, which I + collected in various parts of Suse; but I apprehend that sufficient + attention was not paid to them, and they also scarcely paid for the + analysation. I sent also to the Honourable Mr. Greville, brother to + the late Earl of Warwick, a great many basaltick and other stones, + collected in the mountains of Barbary, which that gentleman + considered valuable. After remaining two days at Messa, I returned + to Shtuka. I was again urged to form an establishment at Tomie; + but, limited as my connection was in England, I did not feel + competent to the undertaking, and was obliged, reluctantly indeed, + but finally, to decline it. + + [Footnote 120: Sejin Messa signifies the prison of Messa.] + + The garden of Delemy, where we encamped, is stocked with very fine +147 vines from the mountains of Idautenan,[121] a mountainous and + independent country, a few miles north of Santa Cruz; these grapes + were of the black or purple kind, as big as an ordinary-sized + walnut, and very sweet flavoured, as much superior to the finest + Spanish grapes, as the latter are superior to the natural grown + grapes of England. Large pomegranates, exquisitely sweet, the + grains very large, and the seed small, brought from Terodant; figs, + peaches, apricots, strawberries, oranges, citrons of an enormous + size, water-melons, weighing fifty pounds each, four of which were + a camel load, together with culinary vegetables of every + description. This garden was watered by a well, having what is + called a Persian wheel, worked by a horse, having pots all round + the perpendicular wheel, which, as they turn round, discharge their + contents into a trough, which communicated to the garden, and laid +148 the beds under water. This is the general mode of irrigation + throughout west and south Barbary, as well as in Sudan. + + [Footnote 121: The mountains of Idautenan divide the province + of Haha from Suse: they are exempt from _Ska u Laskor_, that + is, two per cent. on live stock, and 10 per cent. on produce + which is the regular impost on the country. They are a brave + race of Shelluhs, inhabiting a table-land in the mountains that + is a perfect terrestrial paradise. There is but one person in + Europe besides myself who has ever been in this country. Sheik + Mûluke, the sheik of Idautenan, is a generous noble-spirited + independent character. When an emperor dies, the sheik sends + Muley Ismael's firman, emancipating the district from all + impost or contribution to the revenue, for some military + service rendered by this district to the ancestor of Ismael, + and the succeeding emperors invariably confirm their + emancipation of Idautenan.] + + The Prince was very anxious to be of service to Delemy, who had + ingratiated himself with the former, by signalising himself in + feats of arms. He had been also a main pillar to the throne, and I + sincerely regretted that the combination of circumstances did not + permit me to accept the liberal and advantageous offers made to me. + + Delemy's renown had spread far to the south, even unto Sudan: from + the latter country he was visited by some people, who wore circular + rings of pure gold, through the cartilage of the nose. The rings + were two or three inches in diameter; and when these people ate, + they turned them up over the nose. Delemy had received a present, + from some king of Sudan, of a very elegant sword, ornamented with + diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, he showed me this sword, which was + evidently manufactured in Europe; he told me, he had been offered + 5000 dollars for it; but he had been informed that it was worth + double that sum. + + I was invited by the Khalif of Suse to visit the immensely + extensive plantations of olives at Ras el Wed, near Terodant, + through which a man may proceed a whole day's journey without + exposure to the sun: also he offered to accompany me to the eastern + part of Shtuka, where the produce of bitter and sweet almonds is + equally abundant, and the plantations equally extensive with those +149 of the olive at Ras el Wed; but I had seen plantations of both on a + smaller scale at Ait-Musie, Fruga, and other parts of this empire; + and therefore the sight would have been no novelty, except in + extent. I understood these plantations were on the same plan and + principle with those I had seen, leaving at certain distances, + square openings, to admit the air, for the better promotion of the + growth and increase of the fruit and produce of the trees. + + The Prince was preparing to depart through Draha, and Bled el + Jereed, to Tafilelt; and we had our audience of leave previous to + his departure. +150 + + LETTER XIX. + + _Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers ventured to + pass, owing to civil War and Contention among the Kabyles.--Moorish + Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of Travellers.--Travelled + with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or + Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land. Bitter Effects of + Revenge and Retaliation on the Happiness of Society.--Origin of + these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with + Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among + the Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic + Honey.--Ceremony at Meals, and Mode of eating.--Travelled all + Night, and slept in the open Air;--Method of avoiding the + Night-dew, as practised by the Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, April 7, 1795. + + The province of Haha was in arms; caffilahs, and travellers could + not pass; but it was expedient that I should go to Mogodor. Men of + property in this country, influenced by a philanthropic spirit, + often expend large sums in digging wells in districts, through + which caffilahs pass, on their road from one country to another. I + knew one of these philanthropists who was at Santa Cruz, and who + had recently benefited the province of Haha, by having dug a well +151 in the Kabyl of Benitamer, a mountainous district in Haha; I sent + for him, and as he was under obligations to me for various services + I had rendered to him and his family, he consented to accompany me + to Mogodor, through the disturbed province of Haha; and he assured + me, that his influence throughout that province was such, that, by + travelling quick, and without any baggage, tents, or incumbrances, + he did not doubt of conducting me safe to Mogodor. I agreed to go + with him, without servants, tents, or bedding, being determined to + reconcile myself, under present circumstances, to the accommodation + the country might afford. We started from Santa Cruz at sun-set; + travelling through Tamaract, to the river Beni Tamur. We continued + our journey till we arrived, at the dawn of day, at the foot of + immense high mountains, called Idiaugomoron. Here my companion and + guide L'Hage Muhamed bu Zurrawel, pointed out to me two castellated + houses, about two miles distant from each other; the + family-quarrels of these people had produced such animosity, that + the inhabitants of neither house could with safety go out, for fear + of being overpowered and killed by those of the other; so that + wherever they went, they were well armed, but dared not go far. + These two families were preparing for a siege, which often happens + in this province. Thus the inhabitants of one house attack another, + and sometimes exterminate or put to death the whole family, with + their retainers. The province of Haha was thus in a state of the +152 most lamentable civil war, originating from these family-quarrels + and domestic feuds. The heathen and anti-christian principle of + revenge and retaliation, is here pursued with such bitter and + obstinate animosity, that I have known instances of men + relinquishing their vocation, to go into a far country to revenge + the blood of a relation after a lapse of twenty years, and pursue + the object of his revenge, for some murder committed in his family, + perhaps forty or fifty years before. + + To a British public, blessed with the benign influences of the + Christian doctrine, it is perhaps necessary that I should elucidate + this retaliative doctrine by an example:--Two men quarrel, and + fight; they draw their kumäyas (curved daggers about 12 inches + long), which all the people of Haha wear, as well as all the clans + or kabyles of Shelluhs; and if one happens to give his antagonist a + _deadly_ wound, it becomes an indispensable duty in the next of kin + to the person killed or murdered, (though perhaps it can hardly be + termed a murder, as it is not committed, like an European duel, in + cold blood, but in the moment of irritation, and at a period when + the mind is under the influence of anger,) to seek his revenge by + watching an opportunity to kill the survivor in the contest. If the + former should die, his next of kin takes his place, and pursues his + enemy, whose life is never safe; insomuch that, whole kabyles, when + this deadly animosity has reached its acme, have been known to quit +153 their country and emigrate into the Sahara; for when the second + death has been inflicted, it then becomes the incumbent duty of the + next of kin of the deceased to seek his revenge: they call this + justifying blood. This horrible custom has the most lamentable + influence on the happiness of human life; for there will sometimes + be several individuals seeking the life of one man, till this + principle, pervading all the ramifications of relationship and + consanguinity, produces family-broils, hostility, and murder, _ad + infinitum!!_ We stopped at a friend of L'Hage Muhamed, who + presented us with honey and butter, thin shavings of the latter + being let to fall into a bowl of honey for breakfast. This bowl was + served up with flat cakes kneaded without leaven, and baked on hot + stones; these are converted from corn into food in less than half + an hour; they are in shape similar to our crumpets or pancakes. We + were pressed by this Shelluh to stay and dine with him, which being + agreed to, he sent a shepherd to his flock to kill a fat young kid, + which was roasted with a wooden spit, before the vital heat had + subsided, which was very tender, and of an exquisite flavour. The + bread or cakes above described appear to be similar to what the + women kneaded for the guests in the patriarchal ages: indeed, the + customs of these people, as well as those of the Arabs, is + precisely the same as they were in the patriarchal ages, and which + are delineated in the 18th chapter of Genesis, 1st to the 8th + verse. +154 + The honey of this province is very fine: it has an aromatic + flavour, derived from the wild thyme and other aromatic herbs on + which the bees feed. Among these people every meal is preceded with + a washing of their hands with water, which is brought round for the + purpose in a brass pan; each guest dips his right hand in the pan, + and a napkin is presented to wipe them; they then break the bread, + and, after saying grace, which is universally this,--_bismillah_, + i.e. "in the name of God," each guest takes a bit of bread, dips it + in the honey and butter, and eats it. It is reckoned uncourteous or + vulgar to bite the bread; therefore the piece broken off is + sufficient for a mouthful, so that there is nothing that should + offend a delicate appetite in this antique mode of eating. We + remained several hours with our hospitable Shelluh friend; and we + departed, after taking a little sleep, at four o'clock in the + afternoon. Travelling all night, we arrived, at the dawn of day, at + a large house in Idaugourd; the Shelluh to whom it belonged brought + us carpets, and we slept under the wall of his house till the sun + arose. The people of this country prefer sleeping in the open air + to a room, and they have an excellent mode of securing themselves + from the heavy dews of the night, by covering their heads and faces + with a thin woollen hayk or garment, which they throw over their + heads and faces. When I have had the Arabs of Sahara (who have + conducted the caffilahs from Timbuctoo) at my house at Santa Cruz, +155 I gave them a long narrow room, 48 feet long, which was called + (_beet assuda_) the apartment of Sudan, to sleep in; but they + invariably came out at night, and placed their carpets and mats, as + beds, outside of the room, and slept under the balustrade, in + preference to the confinement, as they called it, of a room. + + We rose at sun-rise, passed through the picturesque district of + Idaugourd and the Woolja, and entered Mogodor at four o'clock, P.M. + +156 + + AN ACCOUNT + OF THE + RISE, PROGRESS, AND DECREASE + OF + THE PLAGUE + _That ravaged Barbary in_ 1799; + FAITHFULLY EXTRACTED FROM + LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE HOUSE OF JAMES JACKSON + AND CO., OR BY JAMES G. JACKSON, + MERCHANTS AT MOGODOR, + TO THEIR CORRESPONDENTS IN EUROPE, DURING THE + EPIDEMY. + + * * * * * + + _Fragments respecting the Plague_. + + When the Emperor's army proceeded from Fas to Marocco in the summer + of 1799, a detachment of which passed by Mogodor, consisting of + 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot, it had the plague with it; so that, + wherever it passed, the plague uniformly appeared three days after + its arrival at the respective douars near which it encamped; those + who died were buried in the tents, and the people of the provinces + knew little about it. + + A large _akkaba_[122], consisting of upwards of 1700 camels, +157 arrived 23d August, 1799, at Akka from Timbuctoo, laden with + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, and gold dust, which had brought also + many slaves; this _akkaba_ had deposited its merchandize at Akka, + till the plague should disappear and the country become healthy; as + the people of that territory, unlike Muhamedans in general, will + hold no communication with the infected, nor will they admit any + one from these parts. + + [Footnote 122: An _akkaba_ is an accumulated caravan.] + + Mogodor, April 31, 1799. + + A violent fever now rages at Fas: some assert it to be the plague, + but that is Moorish report, and little to be depended on; the + European consuls at Tangier, and the Spanish ambassador, who, + having terminated his embassy, has lately left Mequinas, mention it + as an epidemical disorder. + + May 20. The small-pox rages violently throughout this country, and + is of a most virulent kind: its origin is ascribed to the famine + that has of late pervaded this country, and which was produced by + the incredible devastation of the devouring locusts; the dregs of + olives, after the oil had been extracted, has been the only food + that could be procured by many thousands. + + Mogodor, June 14, 1799. + + Various reports reach us daily from _the city of Marocco_, + respecting the epidemy that prevails there, some say 200 die, some +158 say 100, others limit the daily mortality to 50, in a population, + according to the imperial register, of 270,000. + + When any _light_ rain falls, as is the case at Marocco at this + season of the year, the mortality increases. Mr. Francisco Chiappe, + an Italian merchant, is just arrived from Marocco, and is + performing quarantine, by his own desire, at the Emperor's + garden.[123] This gentleman reports, that the greater portion of + the people die of fear, from hunger, or bad food, or from the + small-pox, which latter has raged at Marocco the last month or two; + but he had not been able to ascertain, so various were the reports, + whether it was the plague or not. The emperor's army, a division of + which passed through this country, and encamped at the river, about + two miles south of this port, had the distemper with it. We have + been assured, that the soldiers who died, were immediately buried + within the tents, so that, by this stratagem, the mortality was not + perceived by the public; it was apprehended that, if the mortality + were known, the kabyls, through which the army passed from Mequinas + to Marocco, would not have supplied the troops with provision. This + detachment consisted of 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot. No disorder + has yet appeared here, nor in the adjacent provinces of Shedma and + Haha. + + [Footnote 123: A garden in the province of Haha, five miles + from Mogodor, that was presented to the European merchants by + the late sultan, Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah.] +159 + July 5. We dispatched the Spanish brig yesterday; but she is still + at anchor in the road, waiting for passengers, who fly from hence + with precipitation, from fear of the fever or plague, which + prevails at Fas and at Marocco, and which, it is reported, has made + its appearance at the port of Saffy. We have, however, nothing of + the kind here yet, though we expect we shall not escape the general + scourge. + + July 13. The epidemy in the interior provinces has greatly + augmented, insomuch, that the demand for linen to bury the dead + rapidly increases, and the stock is almost exhausted. This article + has risen to an unprecedented price. All the relatives of L'Hage + Abdallah have fallen victims to the epidemy. This gentleman is + consequently in possession of very considerable property; and (if + he be not also carried off) there will be no fear of our recovering + the debt he owes you. + + We cannot ascertain if the disorder prevails in the outer town, and + in the Jews' quarter, or not; it is certain, however, that eight or + ten die daily of the small-pox, and as many more of fevers and + other disorders, as report proclaims. + + July 25. We are so much engaged in making arrangements against the + epidemy, which is now confidently reported to us to be the plague, + of a most deadly species, that we have only time to refer you to + the captain of the Aurora, to whom we have communicated every +160 particular, and who is extremely anxious to be off for England. The + deaths in this town, which contained a population of 10,000, + according to the imperial register, are from forty to fifty each + day. + + Aug. 1. As the plague now rages violently here, no one thinks of + business or the affairs of this world; but each individual + anticipates that he will be next called away. I send the inclosed, + to be forwarded to Mr. Andrea de Christo, at Amsterdam, to announce + to him the sudden death of his partner, Mr. J. Pacifico, who is + lately dead of the plague. I paid him a visit a few hours before + his death; I met there Don Pedro de Victoria, who was smoking a + segar; he offered me one, and urged me to smoke it. I believe that + the smoke of tobacco is anti-pestilential; this, added to the + precaution of avoiding contact, and inhalation of the breath of the + person infected, appears to be quite sufficient to secure a person + from infection. + + Aug. 1. (Translation of a letter to Mr. Andrea de Christi, merchant + at Amsterdam.) We are sorry that the subject of this letter is so + melancholy. All our domestics have left us; the plague rages so + violently here, that the daily mortality is from sixty to seventy, + among which we are sorry to announce the death of your partner, Mr. + J. Pacifico, who died two days since. + + August 23. The best gum is selling at Akka for six dollars a + quintal: they will not bring it here, fearing the infection. A +161 large Brazil ship has been wrecked off Cape Noon, her cargo, + consisting for the most part of silks and linens, is estimated at + half a million of dollars. The Arabs of Sahara convert the most + beautiful lace into bridles for their horses, by twisting it; and + superior silk stockings are selling at Wedinoon at a dollar per + dozen pair. The plague is rapidly diminishing from 100 deaths to 20 + or 30 per day. Meeman Corcoes is dead, as well as most of the + principal tradesmen of Marocco and Fas; whole families have been + swept off, and there is none left to inherit their property. + Immense droves of horses, mules, and cattle of every description + stray in the plains without owners. + + September 5. The plague continues to decrease; and in another month + we expect to be quite free from it. Signor Conton died this morning + of the epidemy; yesterday afternoon he was apparently quite well, + and paid me a visit. He wished me to shake hands with him, which I + declined, alleging as an excuse, that I would dispense with that + custom till the plague should pass over. He drank a glass of wine, + and appeared cheerful and in good health. I have had fixed in my + dining room, a table that extends from one end to the other. I walk + or sit on one side of the table, my visitors on the other. I am + only cautious to avoid personal contact. All the houses of the + other merchants are closely barricaded or bolted. A fumigating pot +162 of gum sandrac stands at the entrance of my house, continually + burning, which diffuses an agreeable perfume, but is not, as I + apprehend, an antidote to the epidemy. + + October 1. We have to apprise you of the decease of L'Hage Abdallah + El Hareishy, most of whose relations are dead. His brother is the + only one of the family besides himself that remains: he has + inherited considerable property, and thence will be enabled to pay + your bill on him in our favour. + + October 29. The plague appears to have ceased in this town. All the + merchants have opened their houses; but the disorder continues in + the provinces, from whence there is little or no communication with + the town. The kabyls seem to be wholly engaged in burying their + dead, in arranging the affairs of their respective families, in + dividing the property inherited by them, and in administering + consolation to the sick. + + Nov. 11. The plague having committed incalculable ravages + throughout this country, had put a stop to all commerce, which now + begins to revive, in proportion as that calamity subsides. Linens + are selling to great advantage, a cargo would now render 60 per + cent. profit, clear of all charges. + + Nov. 29. The deadly epidemy that has lately visited us, and which +163 at one period carried off above 100 each day, has now confined its + daily mortality to two or three; some days none. When, however, the + Arabs of Shedma, and the Shelluhs of Haha come to town, and bring + the clothes of their deceased relations for sale, the epidemy + increases to three, four, and five a day; then, in three or four + days, it declines again to its former number, one, two, or three. + We have reason to expect, that, before the vessels which we expect + from London shall arrive, the plague will have subsided entirely. + + Mogodor, Dec. 12. 1799. The plague or mortality of this town is now + reduced to three or four weekly. + + OBSERVATION. + + After the plague had subsided, a murrain attacked the cattle, and + great numbers of all kinds died; so that they became reduced in the + same proportion as the race of man had been reduced before. + + _Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson_. + + Gibraltar, 28th Oct. 1799. + + Dear Jackson; + + Within a few days of each other, I received your packets of the +164 21st of September, and 8th instant. Their inclosures are of course + taken care of. Your letter about Soke Assa was received, and sent + home to government ages ago. + + I never could understand the drift of the people either at Tangier + or Mogodor, in asserting that my report of the plague was + political. God knows, that our politics in Barbary are never + remarkable for refinement: they are, if any thing, rather too much + in the John Bull style; and the finesse they gave me such credit + for, was absolutely beyond my comprehension, as I never could + discover what advantage a genuine well-established plague in + Barbary could be to our country. Of its existence I had not the + shadow of doubt, for more than eight months before it was talked + of; and when Doctor Bell was going that way, I begged of him to be + particular in his enquiries, which he, as usual, neglected. When + John Salmon[124] was up, he was _very particular_, and _I_ of + course was laughed at. _Here_ I saw politics, and told all the + gentlemen, that when Salmon[125] arrived at Tariffa, then, and not + till then, we should have the plague in Barbary; and just so it + turned out. + + [Footnote 124: John Salmon was Spanish envoy to the emperor of + Marocco, and was at this time up at Fas, _i.e._ on his + embassy.] + + [Footnote 125: Arrived at Tariffa, and so secured his admission + into Spain on his return from his embassy.] +165 + I am confident, if my advice had been taken, the disease might have + been checked in the beginning; for it was almost three quarters of + a year confined to _old_ Fas. I wrote in the most pressing manner + to Ben Ottoman[126], who never believed me. A few days before he + was seized with it, he wrote me a melancholy letter for advice, and + pathetically lamented that he had not listened to me in time; and I + suppose that even Broussonet[127] believed me when he embarked. I + hope your opinion that it diminishes with you will prove well + founded; but I fear its ravages are only suspended by the great + heats; besides, you should recollect that people cannot die twice, + and with a population so diminished, you must not expect so many as + formerly on your daily dead-list. Mrs. M., who desires her + remembrance to you, is well, but barring plague, would rather be at + Tangier than Gibraltar; so would I. + + Ever truly thine, + + J. MATRA. + + [Footnote 126: The emperor's prime-minister, or _talb cadus_ at + that time.] + + [Footnote 127: Dr. Broussonet, French consul. This gentleman + was intendant of the botanical garden at Montpelier: he, with + another doctor embarked for Europe just as the plague began to + appear at Mogodor in the year 1799.] +166 + + _Some Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated + West Barbary in 1799 and 1800, and to the Effects of which the + Author was an eye-witness._ + + From various circumstances and appearances, and from the character + of the epidemical distemper which raged lately in the south of + Spain, there is every reason to suppose, it was similar to that + distemper or plague which depopulated West Barbary; for, whether we + call it by the more reconcileable appellation of the epidemy, or + yellow fever, it was undoubtedly a plague, and a most destructive + one; for wherever it prevailed, it invariably carried off, in a few + months, one-half, or one-third, of the population. + + It does not appear how the plague originated in Fas in the year + 1799.[128] Some persons, who were there at the time it broke out, + have confidently ascribed it to infected merchandise imported into + that place from the East; whilst others, of equal veracity and + judgment, have not scrupled to ascribe it to the locusts which had + infested West Barbary during the seven preceding years, the + destruction of which was followed by the (_jedrie_) small-pox, +167 which pervaded the country, and was generally fatal. The _jedrie_ + is supposed to be the forerunner of this species of epidemy, as + appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, which gives an account of + the same disorder having carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants + of West Barbary about four centuries since. But however this + destructive epidemy originated, its leading features were novel, + and its consequences more dreadful than the common plague of + Turkey, or that of Syria, or Egypt. Let every one freely declare + his own sentiments about it; let him assign any credible account of + its rise, or the causes that introduced so terrible a scene. I + shall relate only what its symptoms were, what it actually was, and + how it terminated, having been an eye-witness of its dreadful + effects, and having seen and visited many who were afflicted, and + who were dying with it. + + [Footnote 128: See the Author's observations, in a letter to + Mr. Willis, in Gentleman's Magazine, February, 1805.] + + In the month of April, 1799, a dreadful plague, of a most + destructive nature, manifested itself in the city of Old Fas, which + soon after communicated itself to the new city. This unparalleled + calamity, carried off one or two the first day, three or four the + second day, six or eight the third day, and increasing + progressively, until the mortality amounted to two in the hundred + of the aggregate population, continuing _with unabating violence_, + ten, fifteen, or twenty days; being of longer duration in old than + in new towns; then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one +168 thousand a day to nine hundred, then to eight hundred, and so on + until it disappeared. Whatever recourse was had to medicine and to + physicians was unavailing; so that such expedients were at length + totally relinquished, and the people, overpowered by this terrible + scourge, lost all hopes of surviving it. + + Whilst it raged in the town of Mogodor, a small village, _Diabet_, + situated about two miles south-east of that place, remained + uninfected, although the communication was open between them: on + the _thirty-fourth day_, however, after its first appearance at + Mogodor, this village was discovered to be infected, and the + disorder raged with great violence, making dreadful havock among + the human species for _twenty-one_ days, carrying off, during that + period, one hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, + the original population of the village, before the plague visited + it; none died after this, and those who were infected, recovered in + the course of a month or two, some losing an eye, or the use of a + leg or an arm. + + Many similar circumstances might be here adduced relative to the + numerous and populous villages dispersed through the extensive + Shelluh province of Haha, all which shared a similar or a worse + fate. Travelling through this province shortly after the plague had + exhausted itself, I saw many uninhabited ruins, which I had before + witnessed as flourishing villages; on making enquiry concerning the +169 population of these dismal remains, I was informed that in one + village, which contained six hundred inhabitants, four persons only + had escaped the ravage. Other villages, which had contained four or + five hundred, had only seven or eight survivors left to relate the + calamities they had suffered. Families which had retired to the + country to avoid the infection, on returning to town, when all + infection had apparently ceased, were generally attacked, and died; + a singular instance of this kind happened at Mogodor, where, after + the mortality had subsided, a corps of troops arrived from the city + of Terodant, in the province of Suse, where the plague had been + raging, and had subsided; these troops, after remaining three days + at Mogodor, were attacked with the disease, and it raged + exclusively among them for about a month, during which it carried + off two-thirds of their original number, one hundred men; during + this interval the other inhabitants of the town were exempt from + the disorder, though these troops were not confined to any + particular quarter, many of them having had apartments in the + houses of the inhabitants of the town. + + The destruction of the human species in the province of Suse was + considerably greater than elsewhere; Terodant, formerly the + metropolis of a kingdom, but now that of Suse, lost, when the + infection was at its acme, about eight hundred each day; the +170 ruined, but still extensive city of Marocco[129], lost one thousand + each day; the populous cities of Old and New Fas diminished in + population twelve or fifteen hundred each day[130], insomuch, that + in these extensive cities, the mortality was so great, that the + living having not time to bury the dead, the bodies were deposited + or thrown altogether into large holes, which, when nearly full, + were covered over with earth. All regulations in matters of + sepulture before observed were now no longer regarded; things + sacred and things prophane had now lost their distinction, and + universal despair pervaded mankind. Young, healthy, and robust + persons of full stamina, were, for the most part, attacked first, + then women and children, and lastly, thin, sickly, emaciated, and + old people. + + [Footnote 129: I have been informed that there are still at + Marocco, apartments wherein the dead were placed; and that + after the whole family was swept away the doors were built up, + and remain so to this day.] + + [Footnote 130: There died, during the whole of the above + periods, in the city of Marocco, 50,000; in Fas, 65,000; in + Mogodor, 4500; and in Saffy, 5000; in all 124,500 souls!] + + After this violent and deadly calamity had subsided, we beheld a + general alteration in the fortunes and circumstances of men; we saw + persons who before the plague were common labourers, now in + possession of thousands, and keeping horses without knowing how to + ride them. Parties of this description were met wherever we went, +171 and the men of family called them in derision _el wuratu_, the + inheritors.[131] Provisions also became extremely cheap and + abundant; the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + there was now no one to own them; and the propensity to plunder, so + notoriously attached to the character of the Arab, as well as to + the Shelluh and Moor, was superseded by a conscientious regard to + justice, originating from a continual apprehension of dissolution, + and that the _el khere_[132], as the plague was now called, was a + judgment of the Omnipotent on the disobedience of man, and that it + behoved every individual to amend his conduct, as a preparation to + his departure for paradise. + + [Footnote 131: _Des gens parvenus_, as the French express it; + or upstarts.] + + [Footnote 132: The good, or benediction.] + + The expense of labour at the same time increased enormously[133], + and never was equality in the human species more conspicuous than + at this time; when corn was to be ground, or bread baked, both were + performed in the houses of the affluent, and prepared by + themselves, for the very few people whom the plague had spared, + were insufficient to administer to the wants of the rich and + independent, and they were accordingly compelled to work for + themselves, performing personally the menial offices of their + respective families. +172 + [Footnote 133: At this time I received from Marocco a caravan + of many camel-loads of bees-wax, in serrons containing 200 lbs. + each; I sent for workmen to place them one upon another, and + they demanded one dollar per serron for so moving them.] + + The country being now depopulated, and much of the territory + without owners, vast tribes of Arabs emigrated from their abodes in + the interior of Sahara, and took possession of the country + contiguous to the river Draha, as well as many districts in Suse; + and, in short, settling themselves, and pitching their tents + wherever they found a fertile country with little or no population. + + The symptoms of this plague varied in different patients, the + variety of age and constitution gave it a like variety of + appearance and character. Those who enjoyed perfect health were + suddenly seized with head-aches and inflammations; the tongue and + throat became of a vivid red, the breath was drawn with difficulty, + and was succeeded by sneezing and hoarseness; when once settled in + the stomach, it excited vomitings of black bile, attended with + excessive torture, weakness, hiccough, and convulsion. Some were + seized with sudden shivering, or delirium, and had a sensation of + such intense inward heat, that they threw off their clothes, and + would have walked about naked in quest of water wherein to plunge + themselves. Cold water was eagerly resorted to by the unwary and + imprudent, and proved fatal to those who indulged in its momentary + relief. Some had one, two, or more buboes, which formed themselves, +173 and became often as large as a walnut, in the course of a day; + others had a similar number of carbuncles; others had both buboes + and carbuncles, which generally appeared in the groin, under the + arm, or near the breast. Those who were affected[134] with a + shivering, having no buboe, carbuncle, spots, or any other exterior + disfiguration, were invariably carried off in less than twenty-four + hours, and the body of the deceased became quickly putrified, so + that it was indispensably necessary to bury it a few hours after + dissolution. It is remarkable, that the birds of the air fled away + from the abode of men, for none were to be seen during this +174 calamitous period; the hyænas, on the contrary, visited the + cemeteries, and sought the dead bodies to devour them. I + recommended Mr. Baldwin's[135] invaluable remedy of olive oil, + applied according to his directions; several Jews, and some + Muselmin[136], were induced to try it, and I was afterwards visited + by many, to whom I had recommended it, and had given them written + directions in Arabic how to apply it: and I do not know any + instance of its failing when persevered in, even after the + infection had manifested itself. + + [Footnote 134: _M'drob_ is an idiom in the Arabic language + somewhat difficult to render into English; it is well known + that the Muhamedans are predestinarians, and that they believe + in the existence of spirits, devils, &c.; their idea of the + plague is, that it is a good or blessing sent from God to clear + the world of a superfluous population--that no medicine or + precaution can cure or prevent it; that every one who is to be + a victim to it is (_mktube_) recorded in the Book of Fate; that + there are certain Genii who preside over the fate of men, and + who sometimes discover themselves in various forms, having + often legs similar to those of fowls: that these Genii are + armed with arrows: that when a person is attacked by the + plague, which is called in Arabic _l'amer_, or the destiny or + decree, he is shot by one of these Genii, and the sensation of + the invisible wound is similar to that from a musquet-ball; + hence the universal application of _M'drob_ to a person + afflicted with the plague, i.e. he is shot; and if he die, + _ufah ameruh_, his destiny is completed or terminated (in this + world). I scarcely ever yet saw the Muselman who did not affirm + that he had at some time of his life seen these Genii; and they + often appear, they say, in rivers.] + + [Footnote 135: Late British Consul in Egypt.] + + [Footnote 136: Muselman, sing.: Muselmin. plur.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy which made its appearance at Cadiz, + and all along the southern shores of Spain, immediately as the + plague was subsiding in West Barbary, was the same disorder with + the one above described, suffering, after its passage to a + Christian country, some variation, originating from the different + modes of living, and other circumstances; for nothing can be more + opposite than the food, dress, customs, and manners of Muhamedans + and Christians, notwithstanding the approximation of Spain to + Marocco. We have been credibly informed, that it was communicated + originally to Spain, by two infected persons, who went from Tangier + to Estapona, a small village on the opposite shore; who, after + eluding the vigilance of the guards, reached Cadiz. We have also + been assured that it was communicated by some infected persons who +175 landed in Spain, from a vessel that had loaded produce at L'Araiche + in West Barbary. Another account was, that a Spanish privateer, + which had occasion to land its crew for the purpose of procuring + water in some part of West Barbary, caught the infection from + communicating with the natives, and afterwards proceeding to Cadiz, + and spread it in that town and the adjacent country. + + It should be observed, for the information of those who may be + desirous of investigating the nature of this extraordinary + distemper, that, from its character and its symptoms, approximating + to the peculiar plague, which (according to the before mentioned + Arabic record) ravaged and depopulated West Barbary four centuries + since, the Arabs and Moors were of opinion it would subside after + the first year, and not appear again the next, as the Egyptian + plague does; and agreeably to this opinion, it did not re-appear + the second year: neither did St. John's day, or that season, affect + its virulence; but about that period there prevails along the coast + of West Barbary, a trade-wind, which, beginning to blow in the + month of May, continues throughout the months of June, July, and + August, with little intermission. It was apprehended that the + influence of this trade-wind, added to the superstitious opinion of + the plague ceasing on St. John's day, would stop, or at least + sensibly diminish the mortality; but no such thing happened: the + wind did set in, as it invariably does, about St. John's day; the +176 disorder, however, increased at that period, rather than + diminished. Some persons were of opinion, that the infection + maintained its virulence till the last; that the decrease of + mortality did not originate from a decrease of the _miasma_, but + from a decrease of population, and a consequent want of subjects to + prey upon; and this indeed is a plausible idea; but admitting it to + be just, how are we to account for the almost invariable fatality + of the disorder, when at its height, and the comparative innocence + of it when on the decline? for _then_, the chance to those who had + it, was, that they would recover and survive the malady. + + The old men seemed to indulge in a superstitious tradition, that + when this peculiar kind of epidemy attacks a country, it does not + return or continue for three or more years, but disappears + altogether, (after the first year,) and is followed the seventh + year by contagious rheums and expectoration, the violence of which + lasts from three to seven days, but is not fatal. Whether this + opinion be in general founded in truth I cannot determine; but in + the spring of the year 1806, which was the seventh year from the + appearance of the plague at Fas in 1799, a species of influenza + pervaded the whole country; the patient going to bed well, and, on + rising in the morning, a thick phlegm was expectorated, accompanied + by a distressing rheum, or cold in the head, with a cough, which + quickly reduced those affected to extreme weakness, but was seldom + fatal, continuing from three to seven days, with more or less + violence, and then gradually disappearing. +177 + During the plague at Mogodor, the European merchants shut + themselves up in their respective houses, as is the practice in the + Levant; I did not take this precaution, but occasionally rode out + to take exercise on horseback. Riding one day out of the town, I + met the Governor's brother, who asked me where I was going, when + every other European was shut up? "To the garden," I + answered.--"And are you not aware that the garden and the adjacent + country is full of (_Jinune_) departed souls, who are busy in + smiting with the plague every one they meet?" I could not help + smiling, but told him, that I trusted to God only, who would not + allow any of the _Jinune_ to smite me unless it were his sovereign + will, and that if it were, he could effect it without the agency of + _Jinune_. On my return to town in the evening, the beach, from the + town-gate to the sanctuary of Seedi,[137] Mogodole was covered with + biers. My daily observations convinced me that the epidemy was not + caught by approach, unless that approach was accompanied by an + inhaling of the breath, or by touching the infected person; I + therefore had a separation made across the gallery, inside of my + house, between the kitchen and dining parlour, of the width of + three feet, which is sufficiently wide to prevent the inhaling the +178 breath of a person. From this partition or table of separation I + took the dishes, and after dinner returned them to the same place, + suffering none of the servants to come near me; and in the + accounting-house, I had a partition made to prevent the too near + approach of any person who might call on business; and this + precaution I firmly believe to be all that is necessary, added to + that of receiving money through vinegar, and taking care not to + touch or smell infectious substances. + + [Footnote 137: A sanctuary a mile south-east of the town of + Mogodor, from whence, the town receives its name.] + + Fear had an extraordinary effect in disposing the body to receive + the infection; and those who were subject thereto, invariably + caught the malady, which was for the most part fatal. At the + breaking out of the plague at Mogodor, there were two medical men, + an Italian and a Frenchman, the latter, a man of science, a great + botanist, and of an acute discrimination; they, however, did not + remain, but took the first opportunity of leaving the place for + Teneriffe, so that the few Europeans had no expectation of any + medical assistance except that of the natives. Plaisters of gum + ammoniac, and the juice of the leaves of the _opuntia_, or _kermuse + ensarrah_, _i.e._ prickly pear, were universally applied to the + carbuncles, as well as to the buboes, which quickly brought them to + suppuration: many of the people of property took copious draughts + of coffee and Peruvian bark. The _Vinaigre de quatre voleurs_, was +179 used by many, also camphor, smoking tobacco, or fumigations of gum + Sandrac; straw was also burned by some, who were of opinion, that + any thing which produced abundance of smoke, was sufficient to + purify the air of pestilential effluvia. + + During the existence of the plague, I had been in the chambers of + men on their death-bed: I had had Europeans at my table, who were + infected, as well as Moors, who actually had buboes on them; I took + no other precaution than that of separation, carefully avoiding to + touch the hand, or inhale the breath; and, notwithstanding what may + have been said, I am decidedly of opinion that the plague, at least + this peculiar species of it, is not produced by any infectious + principle in the atmosphere, but caught solely by touching infected + substances, or inhaling the breath of those who are diseased; and + that it must not be confounded with the common plague of Egypt, or + Constantinople, being a malady of a much more desperate and + destructive kind. It has been said, by persons who have discussed + the nature and character of the plague, that the cultivation of a + country, the draining of the lands, and other agricultural + improvements, tend to eradicate or diminish it; but, at the same + time, we have seen countries depopulated where there was no morass, + or stagnate water for many days' journey, nor even a tree to impede + the current of air, or a town, nor any thing but encampments of + Arabs, who procured water from wells of a great depth, and +180 inhabited plains so extensive and uniform, that they resemble the + sea, and are so similar in appearance after, as well as before + sun-rise, that if the eye could abstract itself from the spot + immediately surrounding the spectator, it could not be ascertained + whether it were sea or land. + + I shall now subjoin a few cases for the further elucidation of this + distemper, hoping that the medical reader will pardon any + inaccuracy originating from my not being a professional man. + + Case I.--One afternoon, I went into the kitchen, and saw the cook + making the bread; he appeared in good health and spirits; I + afterwards went into the adjoining parlour, and took up a book to + read; in half an hour the same man came to the door of the room, + with his eyes starting from his head, and his bed-clothes, &c. in + his hands, saying, "open the gate for me, for I am (_m'dorb_) + smitten." I was astonished at the sudden transition, and desired + him to go out, and I would follow and shut the gate. The next + morning he sent his wife out on an errand, and got out of bed, and + came to the gate half-dressed, saying that he was quite recovered, + and desired I would let him in. I did not, however, think it safe + to admit him, but told him to go back to his house for a few days, + until he should be able to ascertain that he was quite well; he + accordingly returned to his apartments, but expired that evening, + and before day-break his body was in such a state, that his feet +181 were actually putrified. His wife, by attending on him, caught the + infection, having a carbuncle, and also buboes, and was confined + two months before she recovered. + + Case II.--L'Hage Hamed O Bryhim, the old governor of Mogodor, had + twelve or more children, and four wives, who were all attacked, and + died (except only one young wife); he attended them successively to + the grave, and notwithstanding that he assisted in performing the + religious ceremony of washing the body, he never himself caught the + infection; he lived some years afterwards, and out of the whole + household, consisting of wives, concubines, children, and slaves, + he had but one person left, which was the before-mentioned young + wife: this lady, however, had received the infection, and was + confined some time before she recovered. + + Case. III.--Hamed ben A---- was smitten with the plague, which he + compared to the sensation of two musket balls fired at him, one in + each thigh; a giddiness and delirium succeeded, and immediately + afterwards a green vomiting, and he fell senseless to the ground; a + short time afterwards, on the two places where he had felt as if + shot, biles or buboes formed, and on suppurating, discharged a + foetid black pus; a (_jimmera_) carbuncle on the joint of the arm + near the elbow was full of thin ichor, contained in an elevated + skin, surrounded by a burning red colour; after three months' + confinement, being reduced to a skeleton, the disorder appeared to +182 have exhausted itself, and he began to recover his strength, which + in another month was fully reestablished. It was an observation + founded on daily experience, during the prevalence of this + disorder, that those who were attacked with a nausea at the + stomach, and a subsequent vomiting of green or yellow bile, + recovered after suffering in various degrees, and that those who + were affected with giddiness, or delirium, followed by a discharge + or vomiting of black bile, invariably died after lingering one, + two, or three days, their bodies being covered with small black + spots similar to grains of gun-powder; in this state, however, they + possessed their intellects, and spoke rationally till their + dissolution. + + When the constitution was not disposed, or had not vigour enough to + throw the miasma to the surface in the form of biles, buboes, + carbuncles, or blackish spots, the virulence is supposed to have + operated inwardly, or on the vital parts, and the patient died in + less than twenty-four hours, without any exterior disfiguration. + + Case IV.--It was reported that the Sultan had the plague twice + during the season, as many others had; so that the idea of its + attacking like the small-pox, a person but once in his life, is + refuted: the Sultan was cured by large doses of Peruvian bark + frequently repeated, and it was said that he found such infinite + benefit from it, that he advised his brothers never to travel + without having a good supply. The Emperor, since the plague, always + has by him a sufficient quantity of quill bark to supply his + emergency. +183 + Case V.--H.L. was smitten with the plague, which affected him by a + pain similar to that of a long needle (as he expressed himself) + repeatedly plunged into his groin. In an hour or two afterwards, a + (_jimmera_) carbuncle appeared in the groin, which continued + enlarging three days, at the expiration of which period he could + neither support the pain, nor conceal his sensations; he laid + himself down on a couch; an Arabian doctor, applied to the + carbuncles the testicles of a ram cut in half, whilst the vital + warmth was still in them; the carbuncle on the third day was + encreased to the size of a small orange; the before-mentioned + remedy was daily applied during thirty days, after which he + resorted to cataplasms of the juice of the (_opuntia_) prickly + pear-tree, (_feshook_) gum ammoniac, and (_zite el aud_) oil of + olives, of each one-third; this was intended to promote + suppuration, which was soon effected; there remained after the + suppuration a large vacuity, which was daily filled with fine hemp + dipped in honey; by means of this application the wound filled up, + and the whole was well in thirty-nine days. + + Case VI.--El H--t--e, a trading Jew of Mogodor, was sorely + afflicted; he called upon me, and requested some remedy; I advised + him to use oil of olives, and having Mr. Baldwin's mode of +184 administering it[138], I transcribed it in the Arabic language, and + gave it to him; he followed the prescription, and assured me, about + six weeks afterwards, that (with the blessing of God) he had + preserved his life by that remedy only; he said, that after having + been anointed with oil, his skin became harsh and dry like the + scales of a fish, but that in half an hour more, a profuse + perspiration came on, and continued for another half hour, after + which he experienced relief: this he repeated forty days, when, he + was quite recovered. + + [Footnote 138: Mr. Baldwin observed, that, whilst the plague + ravaged Egypt, the dealers in oil were not affected with the + epidemy; and he accordingly recommended people to anoint + themselves with oil every day as a remedy.] + + Case VII.--Moh--m'd ben A---- fell suddenly down in the street; he + was conveyed home; three carbuncles and five buboes appeared soon + after in his groin, under the joint of his knee, and arm-pits, and + inside the elbow; he died in three hours after the attack. + + Case VIII.--L.R. was suddenly smitten with this dreadful calamity, + whilst looking over some Marocco leather; he fell instantaneously; + afterwards, when he had recovered his senses, he described the + sensation as that of the pricking of needles, at every part wherein + the carbuncles afterwards appeared: he died the same day in + defiance of medicine. + + Case IX.--Mr. Pacifico, a merchant, was attacked, and felt a + pricking pain down the inside of the thick part of the thigh, near + the sinews; he was obliged to go to bed. I visited him the next + day, and was going to approach him, but he exclaimed, "Do not come +185 near for although I know I have not the prevailing distemper, yet + your friends, if you touch me, may persuade you otherwise, and that + might alarm you; I shall, I hope, be well in a few days." I took + the hint of Don Pedro de Victoria, a Spanish gentleman, who was in + the room, who, offering me a sagar, I smoked it, and then departed; + the next day the patient died. He was attended during his illness + by the philanthropic Monsieur Soubremont, who did not stir from his + bed-side till he expired; but after exposing himself in this + manner, escaped the infection, which proceeded, as he thought, from + his constantly having a pipe in his mouth. + + Case X.--Two of the principal Jews of the town giving themselves + up, and having no hope, were willing to employ the remainder of + their lives in affording assistance to the dying and the dead, by + washing the bodies and interring them; this business they performed + during thirty or forty days, during all which time they were not + attacked: when the plague had nearly subsided, and they began again + to cherish hopes of surviving the calamity, they were both smitten, + but after a few days' illness recovered, and are now living. + + From this last case, as well as from many others similar, but too + numerous here to recapitulate, it appears that the human + constitution requires a certain miasma, to prepare it to receive + the pestilential infection. + + _General Observation._--When the carbuncles or buboes appeared to +186 have a blackish rim round their base, the case of that patient was + desperate, and invariably fatal. Sometimes the whole body was + covered with black spots like partridge-shot; such patients always + fell victims to the disorder, and those who felt the blow + internally, showing no external disfiguration, seldom survived more + than a few hours. + + The plague appears to visit this country about once in every twenty + years[139]: the last visitation was in 1799 and 1800, being more + fatal than any ever before known. + + [Footnote 139: This opinion is confirmed by the plague, being + now (1820) in Marocco just twenty years since the last plague. + 65,000 persons have been lately carried off by this disease in + the cities of Old and New Fas.] + + * * * * * + + _Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in + West Barbary, and which was imported from Egypt; communicated by + the Author to the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, + Science, and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great + Britain, No, 15, published in October, 1819._ + + His Majesty's ship, which was lying in the port of Alexandria, when + Colonel Fitzclarence passed through Egypt, from India, on his way + to England, convoyed to Tangier a vessel which had on board two of + the sons of Muley Soliman, emperor of Marocco; on their arrival at + Tangier, the princes immediately landed and proceeded to their + father at Fas; but it was discovered by the governor or alkaid of +187 Tangier, that during the passage some persons had died; and + accordingly the alkaid would not suffer any of the passengers to + land, except the princes, until he should have received orders from + the Emperor how to act; he accordingly wrote to Fas, for the + imperial orders, and in the mean time the princes arrived, and + presented themselves to the emperor: the latter wrote to the + alkaid, that as the princes had been suffered to land, it would be + unjust to prohibit the other passengers from coming ashore also. He + therefore ordered the alkaid to suffer all the passengers, together + with their baggage, to be landed, and soon afterwards the plague + appeared at Fas, and at Tangier. Thus the contagion which is now + ravaging West Barbary was imported from Egypt. It does not appear + that the mortality is, or has been, during its acme at Fas, any + thing comparable to what it was during the plague that ravaged this + country in 1799,[140] and which carried off more than two-thirds of + the population of the empire. + + [Footnote 140: It has been asserted by a physician who has + lately written, _Observations on contagion, as it relates to + the plague and other epidemical diseases_, reviewed in article + 20th of the _British Review_, and _London Critical Journal_, + published in May last, that I have asserted that the deaths + during the prevalence of that disorder in West Barbary in 1799, + amounted to 124,500; but on a reference to my account of + Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c., 2d or 3d edition, note, page 174, it + will appear, that this mortality was that of two cities, and + two sea-ports only, viz., the cities of Fas and Marocco, and + the ports of Saffy and Mogodor; the mortality, however, was + equally great in the imperial cities of Mequinas and Terodant, + and in the sea-port towns of Tetuan, Tangier, Arzilla, + L'Araich, Salee, Rabat, Dar el Bieda, Azamore, Mazagan, and + Santa Cruz, or Agadeer; and considerably greater among the + populous and numerous encampments of the Arabs, throughout the + various provinces of the empire; not to mention the incredible + mortality in the castles, towns, and other walled habitations + of the Shelluh province of Haha, the first province, travelling + from the shores of the Mediterranean, where the people live in + walled habitations, the seaports excepted.] +188 + Whence proceeds this difference? Is it a different species of + plague, and not so deadly a contagion? Or is it because the remedy + of _olive_ oil, applied and recommended generally by me, and by + some other Europeans during the plague of 1799, is now made public + and generally administered? This is an inquiry well deserving the + attention of scientific men. And His Majesty's ministers might + procure the information from the British consul at Tangier, or from + the governor of Gibraltar: perhaps the truth is, that the contagion + is of a more mild character. + + With regard to the remedy of olive oil applied[141] internally, I + should, myself, be disposed to doubt its efficacy unless M. Colaço, +189 the Portuguese consul at L'Araich, is competent to declare, _from + his own knowledge and experience_, that this remedy has been + administered effectually by him to persons having the plague, who + did not _also use the friction with oil_. I say, till this can be + ascertained, I think the remedy of oil applied _externally_, should + not be forsaken; as _it has been proved during the plague in + Africa, in 1799, to be infallible_, and therefore indispensable to + people whose vocation may lead them to associate with, or to touch + or bury the infected. For the rest, such persons as are not + compelled to associate with the infected, may effectually avoid the + contagion, however violent and deadly it may be, by avoiding + contact. I am so perfectly convinced of this fact, from the + experience and observation I have made during my residence at + Mogodor, whilst the plague raged there in 1799, that I would not + object to go to any country, although it were rotten with the + plague, provided my going would benefit mankind, or serve any + useful purpose; and I would use no fumigation, or any other remedy + but what I actually used at Mogodor in 1799. I am so convinced from + my own repeated and daily experience, that the most deadly plague + is as easy to be avoided BY STRICTLY ADHERING TO THE PRINCIPLE OF + AVOIDING PERSONAL CONTACT AND INHALATION, AND THE CONTACT OF + INFECTIOUS SUBSTANCES, that I would ride or walk through the most +190 populous and deeply-infected city, as I have done before, without + any other precaution than that of a segar in my mouth, when, by + avoiding contact and inhalation, I should most assuredly be free + from the danger of infection!! + + [Footnote 141: Mr. Colaço, having lately observed that oil was + used externally to anoint the body, as a preservative against + the plague; conceived the idea of administering this simple + remedy _internally_ to persons already infected; numerous + experiments were made by this gentleman, who administered from + four to eight oz. olive oil at a dose; and out of 300 + individuals already infected, who resorted to this remedy, only + twelve died.] + + When these precautions are strictly observed, I maintain, (in + opposition to all the theoretical dogmas that have lately been + propagated) that there is no more danger of infection with the + plague, than there is of infection from any common cold or rheum. + +191 + + JOURNEY FROM TANGIER TO RABAT + _THROUGH THE PLAINS OF SEBOO_, + + + + + To accompany Dr. Bell, in Company with the Prince Muley Teib and an + Army of Cavalry. + + _Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. + Bell.--Description of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of + M'sharrah Rummellah, an incomparable fine and productive + Country.--The Cavalry of the Amorites,--their unique Observations + on Dr. Bell.--their mean Opinion of his Art, because he could not + cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on Rafts of inflated + Skins.--Spacious Tent of Goat's Hair erected for the Sheik, and + appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the + magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian + Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these + Plains.--Matamores, what they are.--Mode of Reaping.--The Prince + presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his + Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and + the Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor._ + + I happened to be at Tangier when the (_shereef_) prince Muley Teib + was collecting an army to join that of the emperor, which was on + the banks of the river Morbeya, (see the map of West Barbary, p. + 55,) in Shawiya. Doctor Bell, who had then recently arrived from + Gibraltar, to attend the prince, whose lungs were affected, was to +192 accompany his Royal Highness; and, as I had nothing to detain me in + Tangier, and was going to Rabat, I engaged to accompany the doctor, + and offered to officiate as interpreter between him and the prince + till our arrival at Rabat; after which I should leave him, and + proceed to Mogodor. The Doctor readily assented to my proposition, + because it is considered more respectable in this country, where + the Jews are reprobated and despised, to have for an interpreter a + Christian; the prince also, when he heard that I had thus offered + my services, expressed himself much gratified, and I received a + very polite message from him. The next day we started from Tangier, + in the morning at ten o'clock. The army halted east of Arzilla, in + the plains: the prince sat down under the shade of a tree to + dinner, Dr. Bell and myself under another tree, about 100 yards + distant. The Prince sent us a capon stewed _à-la-mauresque_ with + saffron, the exquisite flavour of which proved that he had an + excellent cook with him. We departed in half an hour; and the tents + were pitched at sunset, in a campaign country, between Arzilla and + L'Araich. The Ait-Amor or Amorites who formed a part of this army, + a wild, uncontrolled race of Berebbers, saw the attention that was + paid by the shereef to the doctor, and after dinner they were + determined to see what sort of a fellow this doctor was, whom the + shereef treated so familiarly. They galloped their high-mettled + horses up to the doctor; and stopping short to examine him, made a +193 reflection on him and returned. The doctor observed the wild and + tattered appearance of these excellent horsemen. There was nothing + evil-minded in them; but their observations were remarkable. The + Doctor wore powder, a custom unknown in this country: one party + would say, "He has got lime in his head to kill the vermin;" + another would observe that "He was old or grey-headed." The Doctor + was fond of his bottle, and some said _skurren bel akkaran_, i.e. + "The[142] son of a cuckold is drunk." Others would bawl out, _Wa + Tebeeb washka't dowie elmoot_, i.e. "O, doctor, canst thou cure + death?" To which he replied, "No."--"Then," returned they, "thou + art no doctor!" On the following morning at sun-rise we proceeded, + and reached L'Araich at twelve o'clock; we did not enter the town, + but dined in the plains, and proceeding afterwards out of the main + road, we directed our course south-east, till we reached a most + beautiful and very extensive plain, called M'sharrah Rummellah. + This plain was covered with numerous and immense flocks of sheep + and horned cattle, and is many times more extensive than Salisbury + plain. We pitched our tents near a very extensive and populous + douar of Arabs. We departed the next morning at sun-rise, and + reached the plains of the river Seboo about two o'clock in the + afternoon; which plains are a continuation of those of M'sharrah +194 Rummellah; the army were engaged the remaining part of the day and + the whole night crossing the river Seboo, on rafts made of inflated + cow-hides, covered with planks and straw. The river is here about + twenty yards wide, but very deep and rapid; the Arabs had a long + and spacious sheik's tent pitched for the reception of the prince, + about forty feet long and fifteen wide, somewhat similar to the + hull of a ship reversed, having the long side open to the sun. + These tents are the palace of the sheik of the Arabs, and are + erected on great occasions only, such as that of the emperor, or a + prince passing through their territory. The plains of M'sharrah + Rummellah are one hundred and fifty British miles in circumference, + perfectly flat, without a stone, a tree, a hedge, or a ditch; with + the majestic river Seboo passing through the centre of the plain. + The soil of this territory, which, in the hands of Europeans, might + be made a terrestrial paradise, is a rich, productive, decomposed + vegetable earth, which extends, as we perceived from various + chasms, to the depth of several feet from the surface. It produces + incredible quantities of the finest wheat, of a hard grain, very + large and long, clear as amber, and yielding a prodigious increase + of flour, so that a saa of wheat[143] produces a saa and a sixth of +195 flour. The prince, Muley Teeb, seated on an eminence in this + spacious tent, resembled what we should imagine the patriarch + Abraham to have been, entertaining his friends; or Saul upon his + throne, with his javelin in his hand. He had twelve lanciers, six + on each side of him in a row, standing with their lances erect, the + Prince having one in his hand. It appears that this is the Arabian + etiquette; and the Arabs appeared much gratified that the prince + had personified their sheik, with all the paraphernalia of royalty. + His Royal Highness whose mind seemed moved with the beauty of this + country, sent for the Doctor and myself, and asked us if we had + ever seen such a country before. We frankly confessed we had not. + The prince smiled, and said, that the (_sehell_) plain we were on, + although extremely populous, and full of douars, could grow + seventeen times as much corn as the inhabitants could consume; that + there was then corn enough in the matamores[144] of this plain, to + supply (_El garb kamel_) the whole of El garb, i.e. the country + north of the river Morbeya.[145] + + [Footnote 142: Intoxication is a damnable vice with these + people; and when they remark drunkenness, they invariably add + an opprobrium to the observation.] + + [Footnote 143: A saa of wheat is little less than two + Winchester bushels. The wheat is very heavy, and this measure + weighs 100 lb., equal to 119 lb. English.] + + [Footnote 144: The matamores are subterraneous depositories for + corn, in which they preserve the wheat sound and good thirty + years; but when a matamore is once opened, it is expedient to + consume the corn immediately, otherwise it contracts what is + called the matamore twang. These depositories are indispensable + in countries exposed to drought, scarcity, or locusts, and + _should be adopted in our colony of South Africa_. The art of + constructing them is very peculiar, and I devoted some time in + learning it.] + + [Footnote 145: See the map of West Barbary.] + +196 + We took our leave of the Prince, who appeared much gratified with + the hospitable entertainment of the Arabs, and with their + patriarchal style of living, and sent us an enormous dish of + cuscasoe, coloured with saffron. + + Encamped in the centre of this plain, when the sun had set, and the + twilight came on, we could have imagined ourselves in the midst of + the ocean. Not a cloud was in the sky, nor a hill on the land, to + intercept the uniformity of the horizon; the moon shone so bright, + that we could read by its light, and the universal novelty of the + scene resembled enchantment. + + On this rich land they use no dung: they reap the corn about a foot + from the ground, and burn the stubble. The produce is greater even + than that of the _new-dyke land_, on the banks of the river Ems, in + North Holland. The allotments of land are ascertained by a large + stone, placed at each corner of the square, when the reapers reach + these stones, they desist from proceeding or reaping the corn of + other proprietors. We rose early in the morning, and found the air + of this terrestrial paradise strongly perfumed with millions of + odoriferous flowers, that were growing spontaneously throughout the + plains. Walking with Dr. Bell through the Prince's camp, we saw a + beautiful grey horse. The doctor admired it. I recommended him to + ask the Prince for it, he was not acquainted with the customs of +197 this country, and ridiculed my observation. "If you wish to have + that horse, Doctor," said I, "I will engage that the Prince will + get it for you. I represented immediately to His Royal Highness, + that the Doctor had taken a liking to the horse, and would wish to + buy it. Not buy it," said the Prince; "he will receive it as a + present from me. Tell him, he deserves seven horses for the benefit + he has done me: all doctors that I have heretofore had have taken + twenty-four hours to give me ease; he relieves me in one. Tell him + so," said the prince, "and that he (_massab ala genibuna_) is in + the number of my dearest friends. (_e jeek elkhere attibib u + asselem_), Good be with you, doctor, and peace be with you." Thus + ended the negociation for the horse. I found afterwards that it + belonged to a sheik of the Arab province of Beni Hassen, who + regretted parting with it, but the Prince gave him the value of it, + and much courtesy withal. We struck our tents next morning at + eleven o'clock, and, travelling southward, the Prince received an + express from the Emperor to join his imperial army forthwith: + accordingly the Prince and his doctor departed south-east, and I + took leave of them, and pursued my journey to Rabat. + +198 + + OF + THE EXCAVATED RESIDENCES + OF THE + INHABITANTS OF ATLAS: + THE + _ACEPHALI, HEL SHUAL, AND HEL ELKILLEB:_ + + + + + _The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System + of solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous + Company; beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to + Discovery, the Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, + indispensable to the Conversion of the native Negroes to + Christianity._ + + The inhabitants of the snowy or upper regions of the Atlas live, + during the months of November, December, January, February, and + half of March, in caves or excavations in the mountains; the snow + then disappears, and they begin to cultivate the earth. + + I have repeatedly heard reports of the (_Helel Killeb_,[146]) + dog-faced race; of the (_Hel Shual_,) tailed race; and of the race +199 having one eye,[147] and that in the breast. It is extremely + difficult to ascertain the origin of these reports, which are so + involved in metaphor that the signification is not intelligible to + Europeans; their existence is not doubted, however, in Africa. Of + the _Hel El Killeb_ some ignorant people affirm that the Almighty + transformed one of the tribes of the Jews into these people, and + that these are their descendants; others report them to be a + mongrel breed, between the human and ape species; their strength is + said to be very great. The Africans assert with considerable + confidence, which is corroborated, that the Hel Shual have a tail + half a cubit long; that they inhabit a district in the Desert at an + immense distance south-east of Marocco; that the Hel El Killeb[148] +200 are in a similar direction; that the latter are diminutive, being + about two or three cubits[149] in height; that they exclaim _bak, + bak, bak_, and that they have a few articulate sounds, which they + mutually understand among themselves; that they are extremely swift + of foot, and run as fast as horses. The Arimaspi of Herodotus are + called by the Arabs _Hel Ferdie_, these are represented by the + Arabs of the Desert as living at the foot of the lofty mountains of + the Moon, near Abyssinia: the male and female are equally without + hair on their head, having large chins and nostrils, like the ape + species; they are said to have a language of their own; their + costume is a _jelabea_,[150] and a belt, without shoes or head + dress; their country is said to abound in gold. It is "a + consummation devoutly to be wished," that our knowledge of Africa + should increase so as to enable us to unravel the mystery of these + doubtful reports, to ascertain the degree of credit that is due to + these mysterious traditions. These desiderata, however, can hardly +201 be expected, whilst the present injudicious plans for the discovery + of Africa are persevered in. We must, if we desire to discover + effectually the hidden recesses and reported wonders of this + continent, adopt plans and schemes very different from any that + have hitherto been suggested; we must adopt _a grand system upon an + extensive scale_, a system directed and moved by a person competent + to so great an undertaking. The head or director of such an + expedition should be master of the general travelling and + trafficking language of Africa, the modern Arabic: he should + moreover be acquainted with the character of the people, their + habits, modes of life, religious prejudices, and fanaticism. A + grand plan, thus directed, could hardly fail to secure the command + of the commerce of Africa to Great Britain. Then the discovery of + the inmost recesses would follow the path of commerce, and that + continent, which has baffled the researches of the moderns as well + as of the ancients, would lay open its treasures to modern Europe, + and civilisation would be the natural result. Then would be the + period to attempt the conversion of the Negroes to Christianity; + and the standard of peace and good will towards men might be + successfully planted on the banks of the _Nile El Kabeer_, or _Nile + Assudan_, the Great Nile, or Nile of Sudan, or Nigritia, commonly + called the Niger. + + [Footnote 146: Apollonius Rhodius calls these people ημικυγες + or half-dogs.] + + [Footnote 147: The ingenious author of Philosophic Researches + concerning the Americans, speaking of a race which appear to + resemble the Acephali of Herodotus, or the race of men having + one eye, and that in their chest, says, "There is in Canibar a + race of savages who have hardly any neck, and whose shoulders + reach up to their ears. This monstrous appearance is + artificial, and to give it to their children they put enormous + weights upon their heads, so as to make the vertebræ of the + neck enter, if we may so say, the channel bone, (clavicule.) + These barbarians, from a distance, seem to have their mouth in + the breast; and might well enough, in ignorant and enthusiastic + travellers, serve to revive the fable of the Acephali, or men + without heads." (See Larcher's Notes on Herodotus's Melpomene, + cap. 191.)--Saint Augustin, whose veracity is scarcely to be + doubted, declared in his thirty-third sermon, intituled _"A ses + Frères dans le Désert"--Avoir vu en Ethiopie des hommes et des + femmes sans tête avec des grands yeux sur le poitrine._] + + [Footnote 148: We have heard of a pig-faced lady; if there is + such a person, there might also be a pig-faced gentleman, and + these might generate a pig-faced race; and if a pig-faced race, + why not a dog-faced race?] + + [Footnote 149: Seven Cubits make four English yards.] + + [Footnote 150: The best description I can give of a _jelabea_ + is this: Take a large sack and cut a hole in the bottom, big + enough to admit the head; then cut the two bottom corners off + to admit the arms: this garment will then resemble the + _jelabea_.] + +202 + + CAUTIONS + TO BE USED IN TRAVELLING. + + + + + _Danger of travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself + accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling + between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of + Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of living among the Arabs; Food, + Clothing, domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs + calculated by the Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are + good Figures, and have personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; + poetical Geniuses; Dancing and Amusements; Musical Instruments; + their Manners are courteous_. + + Travellers in West and South Barbary should never be out after + sun-set: it is not safe to travel in many parts of the country + during the night. The emperor holds himself accountable for thefts + committed between the rising and the setting sun; so that, if a + traveller be robbed of property, the value should be ascertained, + and an application being made to the bashaw of the province where + the robbery was committed it will be restored forthwith; but if + there be any demur, an application should be made to the Emperor, + personally, if possible, but if not, by letter; and the district is + immediately ordered to pay double the loss, one half to the person + robbed, and the other half to the Imperial treasury. +203 + These robberies, however, rarely occur; for the bashaws of the + provinces and the alkaids of the douars feel it a duty incumbent on + them to protect all travellers and strangers; so that they would, + in the event of a robbery being committed, expose themselves to a + severe reprimand from the emperor, and an intimation that they + were, by suffering such irregularity, incompetent to their + situation, and would be liable to a heavy fine, or a discharge from + their office, for _neglect of vigilance_, which, in this country, + is considered _very reprehensible_. + + Travelling through the province of Suse, I once witnessed the + emigration of an extensive douar of Arabs, amounting to about 200 + families. They were just leaving their habitation, where they had + been encamped only a few months: it was a fine grazing country; the + camels, horses, mules, asses, oxen and cows, were all laden with + the tents and baggage of these wanderers. On enquiring the cause of + this emigration, I was told that the inhabitants were infested with + musquitoes and fleas to such a degree, that they had all + unanimously resolved to emigrate to another place, which they had + fixed upon, and that they would reach it by night. These wandering + Arabs, without any fixed habitation, are of a restless, + ungovernable spirit: they never cultivate the earth, as do the + Arabs of the plains of Marocco, but live, for the most part, on + camels' milk, occasionally killing a camel or a goat for food; +204 grazing their camels in the adjacent country: they live in the true + Patriarchal style, and seek the means of supplying all their wants + within themselves. To effect this purpose, they barter a few of + their camels for wool, and thus supply themselves with that article + for clothing, which is made in every (_keyma_) Arab tent, by the + women, at their own respective looms; each female being the + manufacturer for her own family. The cloth is wove in pieces of + seven cubits long and about two and a half broad, of the natural + colour of the wool: these pieces of cloth are afterwards converted + into cloaks, mantles, and tunics. Those who choose to indulge in + the luxury of dress, by wearing linen, or turbans, send a few + goat-skins, collected from the goats that have served them + occasionally for food, to Mogodor, or Marocco, or barter them with + some Jews for linen or shoes, and thus supply all their wants; so + that their resources considerably exceed their wants, for some of + them have several thousand camels which cost them nothing. These + animals browse on the bushes in the environs of their habitations, + and are continually increasing and multiplying. They never kill any + animal for food until full grown: this custom, from which the Arab + never departs, is manifestly calculated to increase property, + which, being invested in camels, is transportable, without trouble + or expense, wherever they choose. + + The Arabs are gay and cheerful; the brow of care is rarely seen +205 among them. The more children they have, the greater the blessing. + They turn their hands in early youth to some useful purpose: so + soon as they can walk they attend the camels, or are put to some + domestic occupation; thus forming a useful link in the chain of + their patriarchal society. The independence of these Arabs is + depicted in their physiognomy; they are oppressed by no cankering + care, no anxiety, no anticipation of distress. The food and + clothing of the Arab is always at hand; fuel is not required in + this warm country; and a glass of cool water is all that is desired + to allay the thirst. This simple and abstemious mode of living is + congenial to the human constitution; accordingly they enjoy + uninterrupted health: sickness is so uncommon with them that to be + old and to be sick are synonymous terms. They think one cannot + happen without the other. Some of the women of these people, whilst + young, are extremely delicate, handsome, and have elegant figures. + They account it gross to swallow food, that would, they say, fatten + them like their Moorish neighbours; they therefore masticate it + only. Their physiognomy is very interesting and animated; their + features are regular; large black expressive eyes; a ready wit, + poetic fancy, expressing themselves in poetic effusions, in which, + from constant habit, some of them have become such adepts, that + they with facility speak extempore poetry; those who are unable to +206 converse in this manner are less esteemed. Their evening amusements + consist in dancing and music, vocal and instrumental. Generally, + throughout all the Arab provinces, but particularly in Suse, among + the Mograffra Arabs, the Woled Abbusebah, and Woled Deleim, the + whole country is in a blaze of light of a summer's evening; music, + dancing, and rejoicing, is heard in every direction. Their music + consists of a kettle-drum, a flute or reed, similar to what Homer + describes as the instrument of the ancient shepherds, a rhabeb or + two-stringed fiddle, played with a semicircular bow, a tamboureen, + and brass castanets. They play in precise time; and the ladies + arrange themselves at the entrance of the sheik's tent. It is + pleasant to observe the beauty of their fine-formed feet, uninjured + by tight shoes, and free from corns and all excrescences. They + dance some dances barefooted, making very short steps, scarcely + raising the foot from the ground, in a peculiar manner. They have + elegant and circular ankles; and their light motions fascinate the + eyes of the spectators and the admiring strangers, who occasionally + exclaim, (_Allah éhrduh alikume ia Elarb_) "the protection of God + be upon you, O Arabs!" (_makine fal Elarb_,) "there are none + comparable to the Arabs!" They have a very elegant shawl-dance: in + the management of the shawl they display singular grace, and + practise elegant figures, sometimes concealing their faces, +207 sometimes showing their brilliant eyes through an opening in the + shawl. The manners of these ladies is courteous, but chaste; + perfectly modest, but without reserve; and the other sex pay them + courteous attention. + +208 + + ABUNDANCE OF CORN + PRODUCED IN + WEST BARBARY. + + + + + _Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of + Duquella's weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or + Subterraneous Depositories for Corn_. + + The empire of Marocco, west of the Atlas, during the reign of Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of the present Emperor Soliman, was + one continued corn-field. At that time the exportation was free to + all parts of the world. It is impossible to conceive the abundance + produced in this prolific land, none but those who have actually + seen the standing corn in the ear, and have seen it reaped, can + form any correct idea of its prodigious increase. The plains of + Rahamena, of Shawiya, of Temsena, of Abda, and Duquella, those + immense plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, of Ait-Amor, and many + others, form each, separately, extensive fields of corn, farther + than the eye can reach. To give an idea of the quantity produced in + the plains near Dar El Beida, it will be sufficient to say, that + 250 sail of ships, from 150 to 700 tons, were loaded at that port + in one year of Seedy Muhamed's reign. At the other ports on the +209 shores of the Atlantic, viz. at Arzilla, L'Araich, Meheduma, Rabat, + Azamor, Mazagan, Saffy, and Mogodor, were shipped a quantity, + almost equal in proportion to what was shipped at Dar-El-Beida, so + that the duties at one dollar per fanegue, of 80 lb. weight on the + exportation of wheat, barley, Indian corn, caravances, beans, and + seeds, in one year, according to the imperial registers, amounted + to 5,257,320 Mexico dollars.[151] Besides which, presents to an + incalculable amount were made from time to time by Spain and + Portugal, particularly by the former, to keep the Emperor in good + humour, and to prevent him from prohibiting the exportation of + grain, of which however there was little chance, as his Imperial + Majesty was always diligent in the accumulation of treasure, and + let no opportunity pass of encouraging the agriculture of his + dominions. This system gave general occupation to the Arabs, or + agriculturists, and enriched them so universally, that the + diffusion of wealth among them, produced other incalculable sources + of revenue, insomuch that it was customary for Muhamed Ben Amaran, + Bashaw of Duquella, to present to the Emperor at Marocco, every + Friday, (the Muhamedan sabbath), as he returned home from the + mosque, a massive bar of pure gold of Timbuctoo, valued at some +210 thousand dollars; which was considered as the fee by which he held + his bashawick. The Arabs who are the agriculturists of the + before-mentioned plains, besides the corn exported, lay up immense + quantities in subterraneous caverns, constructed by a curious + process, well deserving the attention of the colonists of South + Africa; these repositories are called mitferes[152], they are + constructed in a conical form, and will contain from 200 to 2000 + quarters of corn.[153] It is expedient, in their construction, to + exclude the atmospheric air; and the soil, in which they are + constructed, should be essentially conservative, the air being + never changed, is constantly of the same temperature, very dry, and + not subject to the variations of humidity, which affect the + external air: this, with other necessary precautions being + observed, they will preserve the corn twenty or thirty years + perfectly sound. In countries, (like that of the Cape of Good + Hope,) subject to drought, inundations, or locusts, these mitferes, + or catacombs are indispensable, as they preserve corn as a reserve + stock, in the event of scarcity, or famine, produced by any of the + before mentioned calamities, or providential visitations. It is +211 more than probable that this singular art of constructing mitferes, + was derived in ancient times from the catacombs of Egypt, and that + Joseph might have preserved Pharaoh's corn[154] upwards of seven + years, in similar magazines. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed, who + possessed considerable talent, and had a perfect knowledge of the + disposition and character of his subjects, used to say in the + (_em'shoer_,) place of audience, before all the people, in the + latter part of his reign:--"You complain of my decrees; but when I + am departed from this world, you shall seek for one day of Seedi + Muhamed's reign, but you shall not find it." This prediction has + been literally verified throughout the respective reigns of his + sons Muley Yezzed, and Muley El Hesham, and even his son the + present Emperor has often manifested an anti-commercial system, and + has accordingly (probably by the advice of the Fakeers belonging to + the divan) prohibited the exportation of most articles of clothing, + and provision, such as wool, Fas manufactures, corn, olive oil, + raisins, &c.[155] + + [Footnote 151: Barley and wheat imported from different ports + of England and from the Continent into London (which is more + than is imported into Great Britain) in 1818, was 6,179,330 + quintals or saas of Barbary, which are equal to 7,415,390 + fanegues $.] + + [Footnote 152: Genesis, xli. 9.--"And Joseph gathered corn as + the sand of the sea very much."] + + [Footnote 153: I descended into a mitfere in the Arab province + of Duquella, and remained there whilst the Arab explained to me + the mode of constructing them; this was near the douar of Woled + Aisah (see the map): it had just been emptied, and produced + 3450 saas or quintals.] + + [Footnote 154: Genesis, xli. 48.] + + [Footnote 155: The result of this anti-commercial system is, + that corn is dearer than it was during the exportation. Many + millions of acres of the finest and most productive land lies + fallow for want of a market for its produce; indeed, the + produce has sometimes been so low for want of a market, that I + have known instances of the corn having been left standing, not + being worth the expense of reaping. Now this prohibition + undoubtedly will appear to many intelligent readers bad policy + in his Imperial Majesty, but it is nevertheless consistent + policy. The _sine qua non_ of the court of Marocco is to keep + the inhabitants poor. It is asserted by the political + economists of this country, that the Arab should not have more + than sufficient to feed and clothe him; every thing beyond this + turns to evil, and is an incentive to rebellion: the superflux, + they maintain, should go to (_Beit el melh d'el muselmen_,) the + Muselman treasury.] + + A wine company, consisting of gentlemen of practical experience in + that branch of business, might form a most beneficial establishment +212 at Santa Cruz, whither the grapes of Edautenan are brought to + market, and other grapes from the Arab countries, of exquisite + quality and flavour, infinitely superior in richness, size, and + flavour to those of Spain and Portugal, or any part of Italy; + indeed, I have no hesitation in declaring, (without fear of + contradiction,) that this country produces the finest grapes, + oranges, and pomegranates in the world, and in the greatest + abundance. I have myself tasted at Marocco, at a Hebrew Rabbi's + table, excellent imitations of burgundy, claret, champagne, + madeira, and rhenish, or old hock, all the produce of grapes reared + in the plains of that city, and in the adjacent mountains. The port + of Santa Cruz, if purchased of the Emperor by the English, would, + besides securing the trade to Sudan, and the interior of Africa, + supply the London market with abundance of all these excellent + wines. +213 + + DOMESTIC SERPENTS OF MAROCCO. + + Every house in Marocco has, or ought to have, a domestic serpent: I + say ought to have, because those that have not one, seek to have + this inmate, by treating it hospitably whenever one appears; they + leave out food for it to eat during the night, which gradually + domiciliates this reptile. These serpents are reported to be + extremely sagacious, and very susceptible. The superstition of + these people is extraordinary; for rather than offend these + serpents, they will suffer their women to be exposed during sleep + to their performing the office of an infant. They are considered, + in a house, emblematical of good, or prosperity, as their absence + is ominous of evil. They are not often visible; but I have seen + them passing over the beams of the roof of the apartments. A friend + of mine was just retired to bed at Marocco, when he heard a noise + in the room, like something crawling over his head, he arose, + looked about the room, and discovered one of these reptiles about + four feet long, of a dark colour, he pricked it with his sword, and + killed it, then returned to bed. In the morning he called to him + the master of the house where he was a guest, and telling him he + had attacked the serpent, the Jew was chagrined, and expostulated + with him, for the injury he had done him: apprehensive that evil + would visit him, he intimated to his guest, that he hoped he would + leave his house, as he feared the malignity of the serpent; and he + was not reconciled until my friend discovered to him that he had + actually killed the reptile. + +214 + + MANUFACTURES OF FAS. + + _Superior Manufacture of Gold-thread.--Imitation of precious + Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine._ + + + + + The manufactures of West Barbary, are of various kinds. They excel, + in the city of Fas, in the manufacture of woollens, cottons, silks, + and gold-thread. The wool and cotton are made into _hayks_, which + are pieces of cloth five feet wide, and about three and a half, or + four yards long, used to throw loosely over the dress, when they go + out into the external air: it resembles the Roman toga, and when + _tastefully adjusted_, gives an elegance to the Moorish costume. + These _hayks_ are manufactured in most of the private families of + Fas; the women employ themselves about them, and sell them to the + merchants. They are sometimes made of cotton mixed with silk, and + also altogether of silk. They make also pieces of silk of various + bright colours, called _bulawan_; the sky-blue, dark-blue, scarlet, + and yellow, are vivid colours, produced by their mode of dying the + silk before it is manufactured. They manufacture their silks from + _Bengal raw silk_, which they call _emfitla_. The _bulawan_ is +215 striped, or chequered, pink, blue, yellow, scarlet, and green: it + resembles what is called, in England, Persian, but it is much + stronger, and more[156] durable, though equally light. The silk + sashes, called _hazam_, are made in large quantities, and are + deserving of imitation in Europe; they are very substantial, but of + the same superior colours with the _bulawan_. They are made + generally half a yard wide, and three yards long: these sell at + Fas, from two to fifty dollars each. The superior kind made for the + ladies of the _horam_[157], or emperor's seraglio, for the ladies + of the bashaws, and for those of the great and opulent, are + intermixed with a beautiful gold-thread, much superior to any that + is manufactured in Europe, insomuch, that the gold-thread imported + from Leghorn and Marseilles is used only in such _hazams_ as are + made for exportation to Sudan, Draha, or Bled-el-Jereed, but those + made for the great and opulent, for home consumption, are + manufactured with the gold thread of the Fas manufacture. Whether + these expert artificers learned the mystery of gold beating, and + gold wire drawing, by which they obtain gold-thread, from the +216 Egyptians, I am not competent to say; but _they_ say they derived + it in ancient times from the Arabs, as well as the art of cutting, + polishing, and setting precious stones. They make a composition in + imitation of amber, which cannot, by the keenest eye, be + distinguished from the natural amber, the latter, however, by[158] + friction attracts cotton, but the manufactured amber does not; this + is the only criterion by which they ascertain the true from the + false amber. They also compose artificial stones with equal + sagacity; the topaz, the emerald, and the ruby they imitate to + perfection. The wool with which they make shawls almost equal in + appearance to those of Kashmere, is procured from the sheep of the + province of Tedla, and is finer than the Spanish Merino. They might + manufacture shawls of goats' hair, equal to those of Kashmere, from + the goats of the eastern declivity of the Atlas, whose hair is like + silk: these goats are called (_el maize Felelley_,) i.e. Tafilelt + goats.[159] There can be no doubt, if our intercourse with Marocco +217 had not been impeded by a general ignorance of the language of that + country, that we might long since have received from the + manufacturers of Fas, shawls of Tafilelt goat-hair, equal to the + finest of the Kashmere manufacture. There is a very extensive + manufactory of red woollen caps at Fas, the contexture of which is + well deserving investigation. There is also a manufactory of gun + locks and barrels; the former appear to have reached the acmé of + the art, the latter are not so good as those which they procure + from Europe: so that a Spanish or an English barrel, and a Fas + lock, is considered a complete gun. Such articles of manufacture as + require a complication of machinery and power to produce they + import from Europe, except only when the market is bare, and then + necessity compels them to attempt their construction. The (_hayk + Filelly_,) i.e. Tafilelt hayk, is a fine elegant woollen cloth, + thin as a muslin. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah patronised + this manufacture of his native country, and never wore any other. + The art of manufacturing leather is carried to great perfection at + Mequinas: shoes of the thinnest leather are there made impervious + to water. The manufactures at Marocco and Terodant are similar to + those of Fas, with the exception of that of gold-thread, and the + cutting and polishing of precious stones. The preparation of + leather at Marocco surpasses any thing known in Europe: lion and + tiger skins they prepare white as snow, and soft as silk. There are +218 two plants that grow in the Atlas mountains, the leaves of which + they use in the manufacture of leather; they are called _tizra_, + and _tasaya_. Whether these render the leather impervious, I am not + competent to say; every inquiry that I have made at Marocco + respecting this beautiful manufacture, has been unsatisfactory. I + have always found the manufacturers very guarded, and extremely + jealous; but I have often thought that two or three of our leather + manufacturers, well versed in their art, and withal of penetrating + minds, might contrive to extract the secret from them. In the + mountains of Idaultit, in Lower Suse, they have iron-mines, and + they make gun-barrels and gun-locks equal to what are made at Fas. + The temptations to agriculture, however, are such, that sufficient + only for the consumption of their own _kabyl_ are manufactured; + which is done rather from a principle of self-defense, and from the + _amor patriæ_, than with a view to gain. The silver from the mines + of Elala, comes to the Santa Cruz market pure, and in round lumps, + weighing about two ounces each. I have bought it for its weight in + Spanish dollars; but it is generally taken to the Mint for sale. + Ores of gold from the mines of South Barbary, and silver dust from + the bed of the river at Messa, collected personally by me, I sent + to England to be assayed: the person who got them assayed, + reported, that the metal yielded was scarcely sufficient to pay the + charges of assaying; so that the speculation was abandoned. + + [Footnote 156: The spirit of avarice does not sufficiently + prevail to induce the manufacturer to make imperfect articles + for the purpose of sale only. Moreover, they are restrained + from deception by an officer, who inspects the quality of + manufactures, and does not suffer an imperfect article to be + sold.] + + [Footnote 157: This word is called by Europeans _haram_ or + seraglio; but haram thus applied, is a barbarism: it signifies + _vicious_. Horam is the correct pronunciation: it signifies a + place of safety, that admits of no intrusion.] + + [Footnote 158: Thales, the chief of the seven wise men of + Greece, detected the existence of electricity in amber about + 600 years before the Christian era. He was the first who + observed _attraction_ to be the distinguishing property of + amber; and he was so forcibly struck with this singular + discovery, that he was almost led to suppose that it possessed + animation. The term electricity is derived from the Greek word + ηλεκτρον, amber. See Remarks on Electricity and Galvanism, by + M. La Beaume, p. 29.] + + [Footnote 159: There was a breed of these goats on the island + of Mogodor, kept there by the emperor's orders. This island is + the state-prison of the empire.] + +219 + + ON THE STATE OF SLAVERY + IN MUHAMEDAN AFRICA. + + + + + The state of slavery in this country is very different from that + which is experienced by the unfortunate men who are transported + from Africa to work under our Christian brethren in the West India + islands. No man, who is sufficiently erudite to read the Koran can + be (_abd_) a slave in a Muhamedan country. It is incumbent on a + good mûselman to give such his liberty, that the propagation of the + (_Deen el Wâsah_[160]) mûselman faith, be not impeded. A man who + has served his master faithfully[161] seven years, sometimes gets + liberated. This liberation, however, is not compulsory; but + conscientious mûselmen, of good moral character, often adopt this + enlarging system. I have, however, met with many Moors, who, on + offering liberty to their slaves, the latter have declined it, + preferring to continue in obeisance; a clear proof that their + servitude is not very severe. All slaves, without exception, are + brought to this country from the various territories of Sudan, by + the akkabars, kaffilas, or caravans, that traverse Sahara. They are + all pagans or idolaters (from the interior regions). They are worth +220 from ten to twenty dollars at Timbuctoo; and at Marocco and Fas + they sell for, from seventy to one hundred dollars. They are + received into the Moorish families as domestic servants, and soon + forget their idolatrous superstitions, and become (nominally at + least) Muhamedans. After which, many learn to read the Koran, and + becoming observers of ablution and prostration, often procure their + liberation; for if any one should neglect to liberate such a slave, + his brethren in Muhamed will urge him to it, as a good and + charitable work, becoming a true, mûselman.[162] + + [Footnote 160: So called by Muhamedans: _literally_ means the + liberal of _wide doctrine_, alluding to that of the Arabian + Prophet.] + + [Footnote 161: Jeremiah, xxxiv. 14.] + + [Footnote 162: The etymology of _muselman_ is, a man of peace; + from _salem_, peace.] + + The man who wrote the letter from Timbuctoo, giving his master at + Mogodor an account of Mungo Park, having visited Kabria, which + letter I read, and reported its contents on my arrival in England + from Mogodor, about the year 1807, to my Lord Moira (now the + Marquis of Hastings), to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles + Morgan, was a liberated negro of Seed el Abes Buhellel, a Fas + merchant, whose father had an establishment at Timbuctoo. When + Buhellel liberated this negro, he had such confidence in him, that + he advanced to him, on his own personal credit, goods to a + considerable amount, with which he crossed Sahara, and took them to + Timbuctoo for a market. It were to be desired, for the sake of + _humanity_, that our West-India planters would take a lesson on + this subject from the Moors, whose conduct, in this particular, is + worthy of imitation. + +221 + + THE PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS. + + _Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance + of their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and + not on the other._ + + + + + In the autumn of 1792, (Jeraad) locusts began to appear in West + Barbary. The corn was in ear, and therefore safe, as this devouring + insect attacks no hard substance. In (the _liahli_,) the period of + heavy rains comprised between the forty longest nights, _old + style_, they disappeared; so that one or two only were seen + occasionally: but so soon as the _liahli_ had passed, the small + young green locust began to appear, no bigger than a fly. As + vegetation increased, these insects increased in size and quantity. + But the country did not yet seem to suffer from them. About the end + of March, they increased rapidly. I was at (_Larsa Sultan_) the + emperor's garden, which belongs to the Europeans, and which was + given to the merchants of Mogodor by the emperor Seedi Muhamed ben + Abdallah, in the kabyl of Idaugourd, in the province of Haha, and + the garden flourished with every green herb, and the fruit-trees + were all coming forward in the productive beauty of spring. I went + there the following day, and not a green leaf was to be seen: an +222 army of locusts had attacked it during the night, and had devoured + every shrub, every vegetable, and every green leaf; so that the + garden had been converted into an unproductive wilderness. And, + notwithstanding the incredible devastation that was thus produced, + not one locust was to be seen. The gardener reported, that (_sultan + jeraad_) the king of the locusts had taken his departure eastward + early in the morning; the myriads of locusts followed, so that in a + quarter of an hour not one was to be seen. The depredations of + these devouring insects was too soon felt, and a direful scarcity + ensued. The poor would go out a locusting, as they termed it: the + bushes were covered; they took their (_haik_) garment, and threw it + over them, and then collected them in a sack. In half an hour they + would collect a bushel. These they would take home, and boil a + quarter of an hour; they would then put them into a frying-pan, + with pepper, salt, and vinegar, and eat them, without bread or any + other food, making a meal of them. They threw away the head, wings, + and legs, and ate them as we do prawns. They considered them + wholesome food, and preferred them to pigeons. Afterwards, whenever + there was any public entertainment given, locusts was a standing + dish; and it is remarkable that the dish was always emptied, so + generally were they esteemed as palatable food. + + A few years after the locusts appeared, I performed a journey from +223 Mogodor to Tangier. The face of the country appeared like a newly + ploughed field of a brown soil; for it was completely covered with + these insects, insomuch that they had devoured even the bark of the + trees. They rose up about a yard, as the horses went on, and + settled again; in some places they were one upon another, three or + four inches deep on the ground; a few were flying in the air, and + they flew against the face, as if they were blind, to the no small + annoyance of the traveller. It is very remarkable, that on reaching + the banks of the river[163] Elkos, which we crossed, there was not, + on the north side of that river, to my great astonishment, one + locust any where to be seen; but the country was flourishing in all + the luxuriance of verdure, although the river was not wider than + the Thames at Windsor. This extraordinary circumstance was + accounted for by the Arabs, who said that not a locust would cross + the river, till (_sultan jeraad_) the king of the locusts should + precede and direct the way. + + [Footnote 163: See the Map of the empire of Marocco.] + +224 + + ON THE INFLUENCE + OF THE + GREAT PRINCIPLE OF CHRISTIANITY + _ON THE MOORS_. + (Mat. vii. 12.) + + _Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent + it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial + Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to + attend to the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French + colonizing Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating + the Value of our West-India Islands._ + + + + + That it is a Christian duty to attempt, by lenient measures, to + propagate the Christian religion among the Idolaters and Muhamedans + of Africa, I think cannot be doubted; but this propagation will not + spread to any considerable extent until, (in that country,) the + morals of Christians in general shall approach nearer than they + actually do to the standard of Christian perfection. It is, + however, most certain that there never was a more promising, or a + more favourable opportunity of subverting paganism in Africa, and + establishing Christianity on its ruins, than at this present + period; and I think the best method to effect this desirable + purpose is through the medium of commerce, which must, in that + continent, necessarily precede science and civilisation. It is well +225 known, by all men of penetration who have resided in Muhamedan + countries, that the principles of the religion of Muhamed are not + so repugnant to Christianity as many, nay, most persons have + imagined. Various causes, however, tend to increase the hostility + that exists between the two religions. First, it is augmented by + the fakeers, and by political men, who are ever active in bringing + to their aid superstition and enthusiasm, to increase the + hostility. Secondly, it is augmented by the very little intercourse + which they have with Christians, originating, for the most part, in + our ignorance of the Arabic language, an ignorance which has been + lamented by the emperor[164] Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah himself. + Thirdly, the hostility of these two religions is augmented by a + very ancient tradition, that the country will be invaded by the + Christians, and converted to Christianity, that this event will + happen on a Friday (the Muhamedan sabbath), during the time that + they are at the (_silla dohor_) prayers at half past one o'clock, +226 P.M.; so that throughout the empire they close the gates of all the + towns on this day, at this period of time, till two o'clock, P.M.: + when the prayers are over, and the people go out of the mosques, + the gates are again thrown open. This tradition, which is + universally believed, acts on the minds of the whole community, and + fans the embers of hostility already lighted between Christians and + Muhamedans, bringing to the recollection of the latter the hostile + intentions of the former to invade and take their country from + them, when an opportunity shall offer. On the other hand, what + tends to reconcile the two creeds is, the influence that European + commerce, and the principles of the Christian doctrine, have had on + the muselmen of Africa. This influence extends as far as the + commerce with Europeans extends. Wherever the Europeans negociate + with the Moors, the great principle of the Christian doctrine is + known and discussed,--that principle which surpasses every doctrine + propagated by the Grecian philosophers, or the wise men of the + East,--that truly noble, liberal, and charitable principle, "Do as + you would be done by," influences the conduct of the better + educated muselmen who have had long intercourse and negociations + with Christians; and they do not fail to retort it upon us, + whenever _our conduct_ deviates from it. Thus, the minds of + muselmen, wherever European commerce flows, are tinctured with this + great principle of the Christian doctrine. And, to an accurate +227 observer of mankind, it will appear that this principle, from its + own intrinsic beauty, has in many superseded the muselman + retaliative system of morality, originating in the Mosaic law,--"An + eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth." For I have heard + muselmen, in their individual disputes with one another, advance + this precept as a rule of conduct. If, therefore, this divine + principle be recognised by muselmen, who have had intercourse and + commercial negociations with Europeans, in defiance of the + obstacles to this doctrine suggested by the fakeers and political + men; what might we not expect from the due cultivation of an + extensive commerce, upon a grand national scale, with this + interesting continent? Might we not expect a gradual diffusion of + the principles of Christianity among the muselmen, as well as among + the pagans and idolaters, of Africa? I would venture to assert, + that in the event of the British government engaging, with energy + and determination, to cultivate a commercial intercourse and + extensive connection with Africa, that the negroes, and possibly + even the Muhamedans, might gradually be converted to Christianity. + This event would take a long time to accomplish, but its gradual + progress, most probably, would be more rapid than was the progress + of Muhamedanism during the life of the Arabian prophet. + + [Footnote 164: When this Emperor, for the purpose of satisfying + his people that he administered retributive justice, ordered + two teeth of an English merchant to be drawn, he repented so + much of what he had done, that he offered to make any amends + that the merchant might require, expressing his wish that he + had an English consul with whom he could converse colloquially, + without the inconvenience of an interpreter; and for this + purpose the Emperor, after granting him considerable favours, + urged him to accept of the British consulship; adding, that he + himself would secure him the appointment, and that he would + then refuse nothing, but whatsoever the English should ask of + him, they should have.] + + Associations have been formed in this philanthropic country, + through the medium of extensive subscriptions, for the civilisation +228 of Africa, and the abolition of the slave trade: the greatest merit + is due to the individuals who have subscribed to such institutions; + their motives have been unexceptionable, but we grossly deceive + ourselves, and the whole is an illusion! The French, as it were, + have taken the staff out of our hands; and whilst we are in vain + endeavouring to abolish the trade in slaves, _by the capture of + slave-ships at sea_[165], they are insidiously cultivating the + growth of cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, and other colonial + produce, on the banks of the Senegal river; insomuch that if we + shall continue thus supinely to disregard their important African + agricultural operations, the result in a few years will probably + be, that they will be able to undersell us in West-India produce, + in the markets of continental Europe; for they can cultivate, with + free negroes at Senegal, colonial produce at considerably less + expense than our West-India cultivation. The voyage, also, is not + half the distance; so that the continental market for the sale of + West-India produce will be shortly supplied from Senegal, from +229 whence it is more than probable that colonial produce will be + imported to Europe at little more than half the expense of + importing it from the West Indies: thus Great Britain may be driven + out of the market for colonial produce, except for what may be + sufficient for her own domestic supply. + + [Footnote 165: Many naval officers concur in thinking, that to + suppress the slave trade, by interrupting the ships, would + employ all the navy of Great Britain; and entail a war-expense + on the nation; besides the enormous expense that will be + necessarily incurred by the various commissions dispatched to + Sierra Leone, Havannah, &c. &c. for the adjudication of + slave-causes. To which may be added, our expensive presents to + Spain and Portugal, to induce those powers to coalesce in the + abolition; which there is too much reason to apprehend will be + evaded by the subjects of those powers.] + + This has been a favourite scheme of the French, who have now begun + to taste the fruits of it: they have had it in view and in + operation _ever since we gave them possession of Senegal_. It was + the system of her late Emperor, Bonaparte, suggested to him by the + arch and brilliant genius of Talleyrand, to indemnify the loss of + St. Domingo. + + Moreover, the French, who are cultivating the territory of Senegal + with indefatigable industry, will be, in a few years, not only able + to supply the continental markets of Europe with colonial produce, + but they will become masters of North Africa, establish another + Ceuta at the African promontory of the Cape de Verd, and, in the + event of a war, annoy incalculably our East-India trade, and + enhance the price of East-India produce in the British dominions; + whilst they will, by the aid of the Americans, who will be always + ready to assist them, form a depot for East-India goods at the Cape + de Verd, and from thence introduce them into Africa and France, to + the almost total exclusion of Great Britain. If we are to prevent + these events from taking place, we must adopt different measures +230 from what we have adopted; we must move in a very different sphere + from that in which we have been accustomed to move; we must be much + more energetic, more vigilant, and more active than we have been, + with respect to African matters. It is presumed that these + suggestions are well deserving the consideration of His Majesty's + ministers. May they view with the eye of an eagle and the wisdom of + the serpent the insidious encroachments that are thus making on our + colonial markets!! + + The Africans, by which term I mean the natives, viz. the Moors, the + Arabs, the Berebbers, the Shelluhs, and the Negroes, (not the Jews, + who, although numerous in this country, yet, as they are and have + been ever since their Theocratical Government, a distinct race, and + their customs and manners well known, I do not include them in the + term Africans, although from their birth they are entitled to the + appellation,)--the Africans, I say, are seldom met with in closed + rooms, but are constantly in the open air, transacting their + business in _dwarias_, which are detached rooms, or apartments, + with three sides, the fourth being supported by pillars; this + custom of living continually in or exposed to the external air + renders them strong and healthy, wherefore their bodies, by an + _antiperistasis_, have the natural heat repelled and kept within, + increasing by this action their appetite for food, which is always + strong. They live in a frugal manner, seldom eating but of one +231 food: the prevailing dish throughout North Africa is cuscasoe, a + granulated paste, cooked by steam, and garnished with vegetables, + and chickens, or mutton; this is a very nutritive, palatable, and + wholesome dish. They are not incumbered at their meals with a + variety of dishes; but a large bowl, or spacious plate, is + introduced on a round table, supported by one pillar, like the + _Monopodia_ of the ancients, rather larger than the bowl or dish, + and about six inches high. Half a dozen Moors sit round this + repast, on cushions or on the ground, cross-legged; a position + which they remain in with perfect ease and pliability from custom + and the loose dress they wear. When the company have seated + themselves, a slave or a servant comes round to the guests, to + perform the ceremony of (_togrêda_) washing of the hands; a brass + bason or pan, which they call _tas_, is brought round to all the + company, the slave holding it by his left hand, while, with the + right hand, he pours water on the hands of the guests from a + (_garoff_) pitcher, in the form of an Etruscan vase, having + (_zeef_) a towel thrown over his shoulder to dry their hands. This + ceremony is performed before and after meals. The master of the + feast, before they begin to eat, pronounces (_Bismillah_) the grace + before meat, which signifies, "In the name of God;" after the + repast, he says (_El Ham'd û lillah_) "Praise be to God." Each + guest eats with the fingers of his right hand, none ever touching + the food with their left. If a piece of meat, or a joint of a fowl +232 or chicken is to be divided, two of the guests take hold of it, and + pull it till it is divided. This is somewhat repugnant to an + European's ideas of delicacy; but if we consider that the hands are + previously washed, and that they never come in contact with the + mouth in decent or respectable society, there is not so insuperable + an objection to this way of eating as might otherwise appear. Each + person in eating the granulated flour or cuscasoe, puts his two + fore-fingers into the dish before him, and by a dextrous turn of + the hand converts the quantity taken up into the form of a ball, + which he, with a peculiar dexterity, jirks into the mouth. The + Africans never drink till they have done eating; when dinner is + over, a large goblet, or _poculum amicitiæ_, of pure water is + passed round, and each person drinks copiously; the washing is then + repeated, and the repast is terminated. Afterwards coffee is + introduced, without milk: the cup is not placed in a saucer, nor do + they hand you a spoon, for the sugar is mixed in the coffee-pot; + the cup is presented in an outer cup of brass, which preserves the + fingers from being burned. They use no bells in their tents; but + the slaves or servants are called by the master when wanted, one + generally standing in the corner of the tent to superintend the + others. The pipe is sometimes introduced after the coffee, but this + is by no means a general custom, except among the negroes. The pipe + is of rose-wood, of jasmin, or of rhododendrum wood: great +233 quantities of the latter are conveyed across the Sahara, for + pipe-tubes for the negroes of Timbuctoo, and other territories of + Sudan, bordering on the Nile el Abeed, or Nile of the Negroes + (Niger). + + Passing through this territory of encampments, when travellers are + disposed to sleep at a douar, one of the party presents himself at + the confines of the encampment, and exclaims (_Deef Allah_) "The + guest of God." The sheik of the douar is immediately apprised of + the circumstance; and after investigating the rank of the + travellers, he enquires if they have tents with them; if they have + not, he has his own or (_kheyma deâf_) the guest's tent + appropriated for the travellers. If they have their own tents, + which persons of respectability generally have, the sheik comes and + directs the servants where to pitch them; the camels and mules are + disburdened, and the sheik declares (_atshie m'hassub alia_) "For + all this baggage I hold myself accountable." Europeans travelling + in this country generally follow their own customs: accordingly, + among the English, tea is ordered; a most delectable refreshment + after a fatiguing journey on horseback, exposed to the scorching + rays of the African sun. If the sheik and a few of his friends are + invited to tea, which these Arabs designate by (_elma skoon û el + hadra_) hot water and conversation, they like it very sweet, and + drink half-a-dozen cups at least. Nothing ingratiates travellers + with these people so much as distributing a few lumps of sugar +234 among them: sugar, honey, or any thing sweet, being with these + Arabs emblematical of peace and friendship. Some of the women of + the Arabs are extremely handsome; in all the simplicity of nature + "when unadorned adorned the most." To fine figures they unite + handsome profiles, good and white teeth, and large, black, + expressive, intelligent eyes, like the eyes of a gazel; dark + eye-brows, and dark long eye-lashes, which give a peculiar warmth + and softness to the eye. They concern themselves little about time, + and will sometimes come to converse after midnight with the + Europeans. When the guard of the tent informs them they cannot go + in, that the Christian is a-bed and undressed, they are not less + astonished than we are to see them sleeping in the open air at + night, on the ground, with their clothes on. When candles are + brought into the tent at night, the servant wishes the company a + good evening: he says "_M'sah elkhere_," the literal meaning of + which is "_Good be with you this evening_;" which salutation it is + courteous to return, even to a slave; and if any one, however great + his rank, were not to return it, he would be considered a bad + muselman, a disaffected and inhospitable barbarian. The morning + salutation is (_Alem Allah sebak_,) "May your morning be + accompanied with the knowledge of God;" or, (_Sebah el khere_, or + _sebahk b'elkhere_) "Good morning to you," or "May your morning be + good." Equals meeting, touch hands, and then each kisses his own +235 respectively; they then say, (I now speak of the middle order of + society,) "And how are you, and how have you been: how long it is + since I saw you! and how are you, and how are your children; (_ûhel + Dar'kume_,) and the people of your family, how are they, certainly + you are well:" and so they will go on, sometimes for a quarter of + an hour, repeating the same thing. If an inferior meets a superior, + he kisses his hand or his garment and retires, when there is a + greater disparity of rank, the inferior kisses the stirrup of the + superior; or prostrates himself if the superior is a prince, a + fakeer, or a bashaw. + + Another salutation among respectable individuals is, by each + placing his right hand on his heart, indicating that part to be the + residence of the friend! + + The Jews of this country retain the customs of their ancestors more + pure and unmixed than those in other countries. + + When a Jew dies he is interred the same day, or the day after at + farthest. The female relations and the friends of the deceased + assemble round the corpse, and utter bitter lamentations, tearing + their faces and their hair in a most woeful manner; they disfigure + their faces with their finger-nails, till they bleed, and during + the whole time keep stamping or moving their legs, beating time, as + it were, with their feet; these lamentations are continued, with + occasional intermission, till the body of the deceased is carried +236 away for interment. The performers of these bitter lamentations + appear to have all the marks of hideous grief inscribed on their + faces, but most of them feel no real concern; some of the girls, + young and handsome, near akin to the deceased, are ambitious to + disfigure themselves, and they lacerate their pretty faces most + lamentably. The more wounds these bear on their cheeks the greater + is their grief considered to be. But the corpse being removed the + mourners regale themselves with _Mahaya_, or African brandy, and + make up for their lamentations, by converting their bitter strains + into conviviality. + + There is a strange resemblance between this custom and that + practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand; insomuch that we might + imagine the latter to be one of the lost tribes of this + extraordinary people. It is true that we have no record of such a + perfection of navigation as to enable us to conjecture how a tribe + of Jews could reach New Zealand: but many things remain in great + obscurity even in this enlightened age; and we have had no + historical record transmitted to us from the ancients of many + extraordinary discoveries that recently have been made in Egypt. + +237 + + INTEREST OF MONEY. + + _Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital._ + + + + + In this country the law allows no interest of money; the + consequence is, that the country is overwhelmed with usurers, who + exact, generally, an oath of secrecy, and lend money on pledges of + valuable and convertible merchandise: the interest paid on these + negociations is most exorbitant; I have known five, six, eight, + ten, and even twelve per cent, per month paid for the use of money! + There is no paper money in this country; but a bank might be + established at Mogodor, for the convenience of internal trade: the + _sine qua non_ of the bank should be, AN ADEQUATE CAPITAL. The + advantages that would necessarily result from an establishment of + this kind are incalculable; the paper of a bank, _thus + established_, would be current in a short time, UNDER JUDICIOUS AND + INTELLIGENT MANAGEMENT, in all the territories of Sudan, through + the heart of Africa, through Bambâra, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Cashna, + Wangara, Bernôh, Fas, and Marocco, and various other countries. The +238 immense advantages of the carriage of paper through the Desert and + through Sudan, _convertible_ into cash at every commercial city, + port, or district in a country like this, would greatly facilitate + the operations of commerce; this must be evident to every political + economist acquainted with the nature of commercial negociations in + Africa. + + The superflux of coin, consisting principally of Mexico dollars, + and doubloons, (over and above the quantum necessary for the + circulating medium of commercial negociations,) is either buried + under ground by the owner, or converted into jewels for the ladies + of his family; there is a general propensity to these subterraneous + hordes; the bulk of the people, the lower classes in particular, + have an idea that they will enjoy in the next world what they save + in this; which opinion is not extraordinary, when we consider how + many cases there are, wherein we see the sublimest capacity + prostrate at the shrine of an _early imbibed_ superstition. Many of + these erring philosophers, therefore, attentive to the accumulation + of riches, retire from this sublunary world with an immense + immolated treasure, wherewith to begin, as they imagine, their + career in the world to come! + + "We," they say, "convert our superflux to jewels and costly apparel + for our females, and we have the gratification of seeing them well + apparelled and agreeably ornamented. Moreover, a great part of our + possessions is appropriated to the sacred rites of hospitality, +239 which you Christians know not how to practise; for you worship the + idol of ostentation; you invite your friends to dinner; you incur + an intolerable and injudicious expense, and provide a multiplicity + of dishes to pamper their appetites, sufficient for a regiment of + muselmen; when nature and national beings, which men were born to + be, require only one dish. Moreover, your sumptuous entertainments + are given to those only who do not want; therefore is it an + ostentatious and a wanton waste! We, on the contrary, that is to + say, every good Muselman, gives one-tenth of his property to the + poor; and moreover much of his substance is appropriated to the + support, not of the rich and independent, who do not want it, but + to (_deefan_) strange guests who journey from one country to + another; insomuch that, with us, a poor man may travel by public + beneficence and apt hospitality from the shores of the + Mediterranean to the borders of Sahara, without a fluce[166] in + (_hashituh_) the corner of his garment.[167] A traveller, however + poor he may be, is never at a loss for a meal, several meals, and + even for three days entertainment, wherever he travels through our + country; and if any man were to go to a douar in any of the Arab +240 provinces of our Sovereign's empire, and not receive the + entertainment and courtesy of a brother, that douar would be + stamped with a stigma of indelible disgrace! Pardon us, therefore, + if we say, you have not such hospitality in your country, although + the great principle of (_Seedna Aisa_) our Lord Jesus, is + charity." [168] I should, however, observe that this hospitality is + shown almost exclusively to Muhamedans. + + [Footnote 166: A fluce is a copper coin, one hundred of which + are equal to sixpence English.] + + [Footnote 167: In the corner of his garment:--The Africans have + no pockets; they carry their money in the corner of their + garment, and tie it with a knot to secure it.] + + [Footnote 168: The Muhamedans acknowledge Jesus Christ to have + been a Prophet that worked miracles; the indelible proof of his + mission.] + + Respecting women and horses, speaking of the treatment of them in + England, they remark, that "England is a paradise for women, who + are there exalted beyond the fitness of things; and it is + (_gehennum_) a hell for horses, for those poor ill-treated animals + in the hackney coaches and carts, need only to be seen to be + pitied; the hard blows which they receive from their cruel masters + are calculated to impress our minds with an opinion that we are in + a land of barbarians, whereas you call yourselves a civilised + people: You say you are such; your actions deny the fact, and we + judge by actions, not by words or self-commendations. When, + therefore, you pride yourselves on your superiority and + civilisation the whole is a delusion; and when we hear you set + forth these absurd pretensions, we are compelled to commiserate our + common race, and to exclaim, Alas, poor human nature!" This is the +241 verbatim reply that a very intelligent but irritated Muselman made + to my animadversions on the absurdity of burying treasure. This + gentleman's father had been ambassador from the Emperor of Marocco + to Great Britain, and to France; and had seen much of French, + Spanish, and English manners, among the higher orders of society in + those countries. + + Too much cannot be said in commendation of this generous, + open-hearted philanthropy of the Arabs, here described: but the + intelligent reader will understand, that it applies particularly to + the Arabs, or cultivators of the plains, in the empire of Marocco; + and, in its large and unlimited extent, to the Bedouin or roving + Arabs of the Sahara, and of Lower Suse, from whose (_kabyles_) + clans, the Arabs cultivators are early emigrations; almost all of + them having their original stock in the Sahara. It is also + confined, almost exclusively, to Muhamedans, and does not, like the + divine doctrine of Jesus Christ, with universal benevolence embrace + all mankind, without distinction of party, sect, or nation;--a + doctrine which has lately been put in considerable practice in our + own country, by institutions supported by voluntary subscriptions + for the destitute, for foreigners in distress, and for negroes; by + institutions in aid and support of all needy persons labouring + under sickness, or having need of surgical aid; by institutions for + the encouragement of industry, for the refutation of vice and +242 immorality; by institutions that reflect immortal honour on this + country, and cast a lustre on the respective individuals who have + contributed to all these heart-approving institutions, which are + calculated to afford relief to almost every description of + suffering humanity!! + + Itinerant (_tebeebs_) doctors travel through the country to + administer to the sick; which, however, are seldom found. They + carry over their shoulders a leathern bag, containing their + surgical apparatus, which consists of a lancet, a scarifying knife, + and a caustic knife, or knife for burning: they scarify the neck, + the forehead, or the wrists. The caustic knife is an instrument of + very general application. They convert all gun-shot and other + wounds, as well as sores, into burns, by heating the knife in the + fire, and gently touching the circumference of the wound with it. + This produces acute pain; but the Africans bear pain heroically: + they say that this method prevents inflammation and festering. They + perform, by caustic, extraordinary cures. I imagine this method + would not agree with an European body, pampered with a variety of + high food and luxurious living. + + The inhabitants of this country break their fast with (_el hassûa_) + barley-gruel; they grind the barley to the size of sparrow-shot, + this they mix with water, and simmer over a slow fire two or three + hours. This food is esteemed extremely wholesome, and is +243 antifebrile. The Emperor takes this before he drinks tea in a + morning: his father, Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, also, who drank + none but fine hyson tea, never would drink that beverage till he + had first laid a foundation of _el hassûa_. + + The Arabs and Shelluhs, with whom _el hassûa_ is generally used, + urge its salubrity, by reporting that a physician alighted in a + strange country, and when he arose in the morning, after performing + his matins, he seated himself with some of the inhabitants, and, + conversing, asked them how they lived, and with what food they + broke their fast? "With _el hassûa_," was the reply: "Then," + rejoined Esculapius, (_Salam û alikume_,) "Peace be with you; for + if you eat _el hassûa_ in the morning you have no need of a + doctor:" and he immediately departed. + + When I established the port of Santa Cruz, and opened it to + European commerce, the gratitude and hospitality of the Arabs and + Shelluhs of the province of Suse, was demonstrated in every way: so + rejoiced were they to see their port, after an inactivity of thirty + years, again re-established. If I rode out to visit any part of the + country, the women, on my approach to a douar, would come out to a + great distance with bowls of milk on their heads; others with bowls + of honey, with thin scrapings of butter in them, and bread or +244 cakes[169], similar to pancakes, baked in five minutes, on stones + heated with the embers of charcoal. These greetings I received by + tasting every bowl of milk, and dipping a bit of bread in the honey + and eating it. The milk thus presented is emblematical of peace and + amity; the honey of welcome: to refuse eating or tasting what is + thus presented, is considered, among this patriarchal people, a + great breach of good manners, an inexcusable want of courtesy, + which they say none but a _kaffer_[170] would commit. They would + then say, _Birk eeaudee, birk attajar u straha_, "Alight, I pray + thee, alight, merchant! and rest yourself." + + [Footnote 169: See a similar custom in Genesis, xxiii. 5--8.] + + [Footnote 170: Kaffer is the Arabic term for Infidel. All the + idolatrous Negro nations are, by Muhamedans, denominated + Kaffer, (or Caffres). Sing. Kâffer--plural Kaffer.] + + In these halcyon days, these grateful people never knew when to + cease offering presents. They sat on the ground in the refulgent + meridian sun, and when I dismounted to walk to the shade of a tree, + to partake of their hospitality, they would exhort me to shun the + shade, (_lie ê drab'k elbird_) for fear it should give me cold. +245 These Bedouin[171] Arabs of Suse and Sahara are the descendants of + the ancient Arabs, whose bold and figurative language is the same + that was spoken in Arabia twelve centuries ago, in the time of + Muhamed. + + [Footnote 171: The Arabs of the vast plains of the empire of + Marocco, who live in douars, or encampments, are emigrations + from the original stock or clan in Sahara; who are the pure or + Bedouin Arabs. Being established in the beautiful and + productive plains of West and South Barbary, they soon forget + their Bedouin customs, change their wandering, plundering + habits, and become cultivators, and stationary; for the immense + produce of their labour in these plains, which require no dung, + nor any preparation but the plough, soon rewards their + industry, so as to determine them to continue this new mode of + life.] + + Passing early one morning by a douar, in the territory of + Howara,[172] I was invited to join a party to hunt the wild boar. + The plains of Howara, between the city of Terodant and Santa Cruz, + abound with boars: we started, in a few hours, seven of these + animals, two of which were taken and killed. The dogs best + calculated for this sport are what they call _sereet telt_, or the + third race of greyhounds, which is a very strong dog. One of these, + I observed, attacked the boars by the nape of the neck, and never + left his hold till the other dogs came up to the attack: although + the boar would toss him about in all directions, he never left his + hold. The Arabs of Suse are very dextrous and active at this sport: + they hunt with javelins; some have guns, which they fire when + opportunity offers, but they never expend their powder and shot + (_batâl_) vainly, as they express it, but always make sure of their +246 mark. I could not but admire this celebrated (_slogie_) greyhound; + which the Arab to whom it belonged observing, insisted on my taking + it home to Santa Cruz, adding, that whenever I wished to hunt, to + let him know, and he would accompany me. I offered him a present of + money for the dog, which is what I never had refused before in the + provinces north of Suse; but he declined the offer, saying he was + more than recompensed already by the establishment of the port of + Santa Cruz. "Myself, my family, my kabyl," said he, "hail you as a + father; (_e moot alik_) they will die in your cause." No favour + could have equalled that of re-establishing the commerce of + Agadeer. These circumstances serve to show what reception might be + expected from these people, if the British Government would + negociate with the Emperor for the purchase of the port of Agadeer, + or Santa Cruz, preparatory to the establishment of a commerce with + Timbuctoo, and other regions of Sudan. + + [Footnote 172: In the 815th year of the Hejira, an emigration + from the Howara Arabs attacked, took possession of, and + destroyed the city of Assouan, in Egypt.] + +247 + + PLAN + FOR THE + GRADUAL CIVILISATION OF AFRICA. + + _On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the + Sahara and Ashantee._ + + + + + To cultivate an extensive commercial intercourse with Africa, I + have already observed, that the best method, the simplest, and that + which is, from contingent circumstances, the most likely to + succeed, is the plan which I have pointed out in the following + prospectus. I shall now offer several reasons why this plan is + superior to any other hitherto suggested. + + The riches of the Arabs of Sahara generally, as well as of that + part which I have contemplated as a convenient spot for + establishing a colony, and for opening a communication with Sudan, + consists exclusively in camels. The independence of a man is there + ascertained by the number of camels he possesses; it is not said, + how many thousand dollars has he? or, what quantity of gold does he + possess? or, what land has he? but, how many camels does he own? + The master of these, aptly denominated, ships of the Desert, is +248 urged by interest to let on hire his camels, as the master of a + ship of the ocean is urged by interest to seek freight for his + ship. And it is observed, that the ferocious appearance among the + Arabs, (which is too often assumed,) subsides in proportion to the + intercourse they have with merchants, who negociate with them for + the transport of their goods. Thus, at the _depôts_ for camels + between the cultivated country and the Desert, viz. at _Akka, + Tatta, Ufran,_ and _Wedinoon_, the ferocity of the Arabs is greatly + lost in the commercial spirit and endeavour to let their camels on + hire to the merchants. The Mograffra, the Woled Abbusebah, and the + Tejakant Arabs, therefore, who possess the Sahara, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the confines of Timbuctoo, would act in concert + with the colony, and would have a joint interest in promoting their + commercial views. The Brabeesh Arabs who receive, occasionally, + tribute from Timbuctoo, would also find it expedient to promote the + commerce of Sudan, and the prosperity of Timbuctoo; both which + would necessarily be united to their own interest, and would + provide a demand for their camels. + + If the profits of this commerce, when once established and secured + to the British, were to be cent. per cent., the whole would remain + a bonus to the colony. There would be no shereef of Fezzan, or + bashaw of Tripoli, to take their share of the profits, in any + shape, in exchange for the privilege of being suffered to pass +249 through their country. But, on the contrary, the Arabs of the + Mograffra and other tribes would find it so evidently their + interest and advantage to be friendly with us, that we might + absolutely have the entire command of the Desert, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the city of Timbuctoo, which would eventually + throw such a weight of power into our hands, as to make even that + city itself, in a manner, tributary to us. + + A plan of this kind should be executed _upon a grand national + scale_, and be pursued with discretion and perseverance. + + An attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo, through Ashantee, and + establish a commerce through that country, might meet with + temporary success; but I apprehend that we should labour under the + same inconveniences, and be subject to the same arbitrary imposts + and exactions, whether in the shape of duties, part of the profits, + or otherwise, as we should, by opening a communication through + Tripoli. There would be a present or douceur to the king of + Ashantee; others to the princes of the adjoining territories; and, + finally, (taking the character of this king to be as represented by + the late traveller in that country, Mr. Bowdich), might we not + reasonably anticipate that, on the first dispute respecting the + division of the profits, the king of Ashantee would order all the + English out of his country, and, to terminate the dispute, plunder + them of their property? But, perhaps the establishment of a colony + in Ashantee, _conjoined_ to one in Sahara, might not be +250 objectionable. We should then have two routs to the grand emporium + of central Africa: if one failed, the other would remain open for + our countrymen to recover their property and to return by; and + thus, in establishing a commercial intercourse with the interior of + Africa, through two routes, we should secure, at the same time, our + retreat, by one of them, and not remain at the mercy of the + barbarous king of Ashantee, or any other African potentate, who + might be urged, from jealousy or avarice, to sacrifice our people, + when once he had them in his power! + +251 + + PROSPECTUS OF A PLAN + FOR FORMING A + NORTH AFRICAN OR SUDAN COMPANY, + + To be instituted for the purpose of establishing an extensive + Commerce with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the + Interior Regions of North Africa. + + + * * * * * + + OBJECTS OF THE SOCIETY. + + 1_st_. To lay open the interior regions of North Africa to British + enterprise--to supply those vast and unexplored countries with + British manufactures, with East-India goods, and with colonial + produce. + + 2_dly_, To encourage our manufactories, by opening a new market + calculated to improve the revenue of the country, to provide + employment for the labouring poor, and to enrich the mercantile + community; _the genial influence of which sources of prosperity + will necessarily diffuse itself through all classes_. + + 3_dly_, To facilitate, through the medium of commerce (_the only + medium by which it can possibly be effected_), the exploration of + the interior regions of Africa, (_which have remained to this day a + sealed book, notwithstanding the many adventurous expeditions that +252 have been undertaken_,) by opening a communication with the natives + of that vast and little-known continent, and BY CALLING TO OUR AID + THE CO-OPERATION OF THE NATIVE CHIEFS, BY HOLDING OUT TO THEM THE + BENEFITS WHICH THEY WILL DERIVE FROM COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE AS A + REWARD FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE AND EXERTIONS IN PROMOTING THIS + DESIRABLE OBJECT. + + For these purposes it is proposed-- + + That the funds to be raised be one hundred thousand pounds, in + shares of one hundred pounds each. Ten shares to constitute a + director. + + The spot proposed to be fixed on as the point of communication, and + commercial depôt, between Great Britain and the interior of Africa + is SAFE AND HEALTHY: it will afford a _direct communication with + Timbuctoo and the interior regions of Sudan_, without being subject + to the uncertainty of securing the favour and protection of the + various sultans and sheiks of the respective territories of the + interior, through which the merchants and traders may pass--a + measure which would have been indispensable in every plan that has + hitherto been suggested for the discovery of those interesting + regions. + + The plan now to be adopted, on the contrary, will be subject to + none of those impediments and uncertainties; but the merchants and + travellers will pass through territories where they need fear no + hostility, but will be received with hospitality and attention by + the natives, who will give them every assistance and accommodation +253 in their progress through their country. + + Connected with this plan, a school for instructing the British + youth in African Arabic, so as to initiate them in the rudiments of + that language previously to their departure for Africa, might be + established, under the direction of JAMES GREY JACKSON, professor + of African Arabic, &c. + + The present scheme has been many years in contemplation, but no + favourable opportunity of making it thus public having hitherto + occurred, it is now offered to the public, in consequence of the + energies lately manifested by France and by America for African + colonisation, and also by Holland. + + The projectors, for the honour of their own country, are anxious + that Great Britain may not, through supineness, suffer this + important discovery to be wrested from her by any foreign power, + but that she should _at least share the glory_ due to this + important achievement, the completion of which would _immortalize + the prince who should cherish it to its maturity_. + + Capitalists, and gentlemen resident in Great Britain, desirous of + further information on this subject, may address themselves to + JAMES GREY JACKSON, whose residence, at any time, may be known at + Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown, London. + + TO THE BRITISH PUBLIC. + + London, 31st March, 1819. + + The above plan is ingenuously, liberally, and disinterestedly +254 submitted to the consideration of British capitalists and merchants + of respectability. The advantages to be derived from such an + establishment as is here contemplated, if not evident to Great + Britain, is clearly visible to Holland, to France, and to America. + + The projector, therefore, without mentioning the offers that have + been made to him by a foreign maritime power, and _without + courting_ the suffrages of British merchants in support of this + plan, has it in contemplation, (_provided no attention is paid to + it in England_,) to lay this eligible scheme open to a foreign + power. If, therefore, the projector should accept employment in + this undertaking from a foreign power, it will be in the + conviction, that _it is more to the interest of mankind in general, + and to Europe in particular_, that this plan for opening an + _extensive, lucrative, and beneficial commerce with Africa_, (which + would necessarily lead to its civilisation,) should be known to, + and adopted by, _a foreign power_, than that this vast and + little-known continent should, (to the indelible disgrace of + civilised Europe,) _still continue to remain_ an useless and an + undiscovered country to the present generation! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the + Trade carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the + Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depôt of + North Africa, and with other States of Sudan_. + + Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and other commercial ports of France +255 and Italy, as well as of Spain, send to Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, + and Egypt, _for the markets of Sudan_, manufactured silks, damask, + brocade, velvets, raw silk, combs of box and ivory, gold-thread, + paper, manufactured sugar, cochineal, and various other + merchandise. + + Great Britain sends to the Barbary ports in the Mediterranean, and + to Mogodor on the Atlantic Ocean (which are afterwards conveyed to + Timbuctoo), for distribution at the several markets of Sudan-- + + _East India Goods, viz._--Gum benjamin, cassia, cinnamon, mace, + nutmegs, cloves, ginger, black pepper, Bengal silk, China silks, + nankeens, blue linens, long cloths, and muslins (mulls). + + _West India Produce_.--Pimento, tobacco, coffee, cocoa, and + manufactured sugar. + + _Linens_.--Dimities, plattilias, creas, rouans, Britannias, + cambrics, and Irish linens. + + _Hardware_.--Iron nails, copper ditto, brass ditto, sword blades, + dagger ditto, guns, gunpowder, knives, &c. &c. + + _Cloths_.--Superfine, of plain brilliant colours, not mixtures, and + cassimeres. And various other articles of merchandise. + + Immense quantities of salt are also sent to Timbuctoo, which is for + the most part collected at the mines of Tishet and Shangareen, (see + the map of northern and central Africa, in the New Supplement to + the Encyclopaedia Britannica,) through which the caravan would pass + to Timbuctoo. +256 + The following are the articles purchased by the Moors and Arab + traders, and are the returns brought back to Barbary from Sudan; + viz. + + Gold dust, and trinkets of pure Wangara gold, of various fashions, + of the manufacture of Housa and Jinnie.--_B'Kore Sudan_ (fumigation + of Sudan), a kind of frankincense highly esteemed by the Africans. + Ostrich feathers (the finest in the world). Elephants' Teeth. + _Korkidan_, so called by the Arabs, being the horns of the + rhinoceros: these are a very costly article, and are in high + estimation among the muselmen, for sword-hilts and dagger-handles. + _Guza Sarawie_ (Grains of Paradise). Gum Copal Assafoetida, and a + great variety of drugs for manufacturing uses, and various roots + for dyeing. Ebony. Camwood. Sandal wood. Indigo, equal to that of + Guatimala: to which may be added, the command of the gum trade of + Senegal. + + All the foregoing merchandise being first landed at Alexandria, + Tripoli, Tunis, Algiers, and Tetuan, and other Barbary ports in the + Mediterranean, _as well as at Mogodor on the western coast of + Africa_, are afterwards sold to the Muhamedan merchants, who sell + them with a very good profit to other Moors. These goods frequently + go through three, four, and five hands, before they reach the + consumer in Sudan, subject to a profit gained by each holder of + from twenty to thirty per cent.; the last purchaser, who conveys +257 them through the Desert, however, expects, and generally obtains, + from fifty to sixty per cent. profit on them, to which he considers + himself entitled, from the fatigue and privations of his passage + through the Desert, during a journey through a country, for the + most part barren, of above fifteen hundred miles in length; through + various kingdoms and principalities, subject to a charge for + (_statta_) convoy at the exit and entrance of each respective state + or district on each side of the Sahara, as well as in the Sahara + itself. + + But, according to the plan here suggested to the commercial + community, all these various articles, instead of passing through + five several hands, would now pass through only two hands, viz. + through those of the shippers in England, and those of their agents + established on _the western coast of Africa_, who would sell them + directly to the Timbuctoo trader, which latter, instead of having + several principalities and kingdoms to pass through (at the exit + from each of which, as well as at the entrance of them, he would + have a charge for protection or convoy, called _statta_, levied on + the goods), would have no convoy-charge, or statta, to pay; he + would have but ten hundred, instead of fifteen or sixteen hundred + miles to go, being about two-thirds of the distance of the road + from Tunis or Tripoli, through Fezzan, to Timbuctoo. + + N.B. There is an immense bank near the contemplated depôt, or port +258 (abounding in fish, which now supplies the _wahs_, or cultivated + spots in the desert, as well as the territories on the southern + confines thereof), which produces fish sufficient to supply the + whole of the interior of Africa, as well as the shores of the + Mediterranean, &c. &c. + + _Letter from Vasco de Gama, in elucidation of this Plan_. + + Sir, + + The Society of Encouragement for National Industry in France, has + granted prizes for various discoveries in the arts and sciences; + but I wish government, or some society of our own country, would + offer a liberal prize for the best mode of colonising Africa, and + for meliorating the condition of the inhabitants of that vast and + little known continent. A well-digested plan for the discovery of + this continent might be followed by the most desirable events. The + efforts of the African Association have, to say the least, been + lamentably disastrous; little good can be anticipated from the + efforts of solitary or scientific travellers in a country where + science is not cultivated, and where the travellers know little or +259 nothing of the[173] general language of Africa, or of the manners + and dispositions of the natives. + + [Footnote 173: The general language of North Africa is the + Western Arabic, with a knowledge of which language, a traveller + may make himself intelligible wherever he may go; either in the + negro countries of Sudan, in Egypt, Abyssinia, Sahara, or + Barbary.] + + A knowledge therefore of the _African Arabic_ appears indispensable + to this great undertaking; and it should seem that a commercial + adventurer is much more likely to obtain his object than a + scientific traveller, for this plain reason,--because it is much + easier to persuade the Africans that we travel into their country + for the purposes of commerce and its result--_profit_, than to + persuade them that we are so anxious to ascertain the course of + their rivers! + + Accordingly, it was aptly observed by the Negroes of Congo, when + they learned that Captain Tuckey came not to trade nor to make war; + _"What then come for? only to take walk and make book?"_ + + I do not mean now to lay down a plan for the colonisation of + Africa, or for opening an extensive commerce with that vast + continent, but I would suggest the propriety of the method by which + the East India Company govern their immense territories. _I would + wish to see an African Company formed on an extensive scale, with a + large capital_. I am convinced that such a company would be of more + service to the commerce of this country than the present India + trade, where the natives, _without being in want_ of our + manufactures, surpass us in ingenuity. But the Africans, on the + contrary, _are in want_ of our manufactured goods, and give immense +260 sums for them. According to a late author, who has given us the + fullest description[174] of Timbuctoo[175] and its vicinity, a + _Plattilia_ is there worth fifty Mexico dollars, or twenty _meezens + of gold_, each meezen being worth two and a half Mexico dollars; _a + piece of Irish linen_ of ordinary quality, and measuring + twenty-five yards, is worth seventy-five Mexico dollars; and a + quintal of _loaf sugar_ is worth one hundred Mexico dollars. Now if + we investigate the parsimonious mode of traversing the Desert, we + shall find that a journey of 1500 English miles is performed from + Fas to Timbuctoo at the rate of forty shillings sterling per + quintal, so that loaf sugar (a weighty and bulky article) can be + rendered from London at Timbuctoo through Tetuan and Fas, including + the expense of a land-carriage of 1500 miles at about 6£. per + quintal, thus: + + Refined sugar on board in London for _s. d._ + per cwt. 70 0 + + Duty on importation in any part of + Marocco, ten per cent. 7 0 + + Freight, &c. five per cent. 3 6 + + Land carriage across the Desert on camels + to Timbuctoo 40 0 + ----- + s. 120 6 + ----- + + [Footnote 174: See new Supplement to the Encyclopedia + Britannica, article Africa, page 98.] + + [Footnote 175: See the account of Timbuctoo appended to + Jackson's account of Marocco, published by Cadell and Davies, + London, Chap, 18.] + +261 + So that if 100 lb. of loaf sugar rendered, at Timbuctoo cost + 120_s_. 6_d_ and sells there for 100 Mexico dollars at 4_s_. 6_d_. + each, or for 22£. 5_s_. there will result a profit of 270 per cent. + + The profit in fine goods, such as the linens before mentioned, is + still more considerable, not being subject to so heavy a charge for + carriage. The immense quantity of[176] gold dust and gold bars that + would be brought from Timbuctoo, Wangara, Gana, and other + countries, in exchange for this merchandise, would be incalculable, + and has, perhaps, never yet been contemplated by Europeans!!--In + the same work, above quoted, 3d edition, page 289, will be found a + list of the various merchandise exportable from Great Britain, + which suit the market of the interior of Africa or Sudan: and also + a list of the articles which we should receive in return for those + goods. + + [Footnote 176: The Kings, David and Solomon, extracted from + Africa to enrich the temple of Jerusalem upwards of + 800,000,000£. sterling, a sum sufficient to discharge the + national debt; see Commercial Magazine for May 1819, page 6.; + which is eight times as much gold as the mines of Brazil have + produced since their discovery in 1756. See Commercial Magazine + for the same month, page 44.] + + Plans to penetrate to the mart of Timbuctoo (which would supply + Housa, Wangara, Gana, and other districts of Sudan with European + merchandize) have been formed; but if a treaty of commerce were + made with any of the Negro kings, these plans would be subject to + various impediments. +262 + The goods, in passing through hostile territories, (these + sovereigns living in a state of continual warfare with each other,) + would be subject to innumerable imposts; _it would therefore be + expedient to form a plan whereby the goods should reach Timbuctoo + through an eligible part of the Desert_: but some persons who have + been in the habit of trading for gum to _Portandik_, have declared + the inhabitants of Sahara to be a wild and savage race, untractable + and not to be civilised by commerce, or by any other means. This I + must beg leave to contradict: the Arabs of Sahara, from their + wandering habits, are certainly wild, and _they are hostile to all + who do not understand their language_; but if two or three + Europeans capable of holding colloquial intercourse with them, were + to go and establish a factory on their coast, and then suggest to + them the benefit _they would derive_, being the _carriers_ of such + a trade as is here contemplated, their ferocity would be + transferred forthwith into that virtue in the practice of which + they so eminently excel all other nations, _hospitality_; and the + most inviolable alliance might be formed with such a people. I + speak not from the experience of books, but from an actual + intercourse, and from having passed many years of my youth among + them. +263 + An advantageous spot might be fixed upon on the western coast, in + an independent district, where our alliance would be courted, from + which the Kafila[177] or Akkaba would have to pass through only one + tribe with perfect safety, and subject to no impost whatever; + neither would they be subject to any duty on entering the town of + Timbuctoo, as they would enter at the _Beb Sahara_, or gate of the + Desert, which _exempts them_ from duty or impost. + + [Footnote 177: Caravan.] + + That civilisation would be the result of commerce, and that the + trade in slaves would decrease with the increase of our commerce + with these people, there can be little doubt; and, independent of + the advantages of an extensive commerce, the consolation would be + great to the Christian and to the Philosopher, of having converted + millions of brethren made in the perfection of God's image, and + endowed with reason, from barbarism to civilisation, if not to + Christianity!!! + + Let us hope, then, that some of the intelligent readers of your + luminous and interesting pages will direct their attention to this + great national object, and produce ah eligible and well-digested + plan for the cultivation of a mutual intercourse _through the + medium qf commerce with Africa_, and for the civilisation of that + hitherto neglected continent. + + VASCO DE GAMA. + + _Eton, 28th May, 1819_. +264 + + _On Commercial Intercourse with Africa_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + The plan of your correspondent, for opening a commercial + intercourse with the interior of Africa, appears to me so direct + and simple, that I am only surprised it has not been thought of + before. The Moors are the merchants of Africa; the chain of + communication that runs from the states of Barbary to the negro + kingdoms, and from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea. + To judge of the humanity of these people from the accounts of + shipwrecked sailors, whom they have dragged into slavery, and then + liberated for money, would be not less fallacious than to estimate + the character of the English nation from the plunderers of the + wrecks on their coast. From such accounts, the name of Moor has + inspired us with horror; and Park's detention at the camp of Ali, + one of their chiefs, has contributed to confirm it. Park, however, + so far from endeavouring to conciliate his captors, endeavoured, by + his own confession, to appear as contemptible as possible in their + eyes; and yet, with this disadvantage, the greater part of the + miseries he endured proceeded from the climate and the irritation + of his own mind. + + The Arabs of Sahara are the carriers of merchandize throughout + North Africa, and the Moors are in the constant habit of selling +265 gum to the French on the Senegal. The French say they are + perfidious; but they give no proof of it that I have seen. I have + met with a French traveller, who owns that his countrymen deceive + them either in the weight or measure of the gum they purchase. + + Bruce found a friend in every Moorish merchant, and integrity and + intelligence in all. And where should these qualities be found in a + country like the interior of Africa, in which learning has no place + but among merchants? + + So much for the proposed carriers of English goods to Timbuctoo. + Now for the road. The fertile parts of Africa are hot and humid, + unwholesome and dangerous; and the kings are often at war with each + other. Park experienced both these evils; and the wonder was, not + so much that he perished on his second journey, as that he returned + from his first. The Desert is dry and heathful. It is sprinkled + with fertile spots, which form a succession of known + resting-places, and the distance between each requires a certain + number of days to travel. The Moors are at home in Sahara; and, + when they go long journeys, the fertile spots are their inns. The + road from the coast of Sahara is also the shortest that has yet + been pointed out to Timbuctoo. + + If the means of executing the plan appear sufficient, it is not + necessary to say any thing in favour of the object: the exchange of + British manufactures for gold, speaks for itself. But there is no +266 time to be lost. The French settlement of Galam is advantageously + situated for commerce with Timbuctoo: a Frenchman has already + travelled from Galam to that city, I believe on a commercial + speculation, and he has returned safe. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa_. + + When we consider the maritime strength of Great Britain; her + command of the ocean; the vicinity to Europe of West Barbary, one + of the finest countries in the world; the rich and valuable produce + which is cultivated in this country;--when we consider that our + garrison of Gibraltar is in its vicinage, and but a few hours' sail + from it, we are naturally astonished that our communication with + this country is so limited. That we have less commercial + communication with Barbary, than we have with countries that do not + open to us any thing like the commercial advantages that this + country offers, though they are thousands of miles from us. It + appears relevant, therefore, to inquire, whence originates this + impeded intercourse? There are two great impediments to our free + intercourse with Sudan through Marocco: viz., a general ignorance + of the Arabic language, as spoken in the latter country; and the + repugnancy of the Muhamedan religion to that of Christ. With + respect to the first of these impediments, it is remarkable that + this learned language is so little known in Europe,--this language, +267 the most prevalent in the world, a language which is spoken or + understood almost without intermission from the western shores of + Africa on the Atlantic ocean, to the confines of China,--a language + understood, wherever Muhamedans are to be found, throughout all the + populous and commercial regions of Africa, from the Western Ocean + to the Red Sea, and from the Mediterranean to the country of + Kaffers,[178] in the vicinage of the Cape of Good Hope. With + respect to the second of these impediments, the repugnancy of the + Muhamedan religion to that of Christ, it may justly be observed, + that this is not really so great as we are apt to imagine; the + moral principles of Muhamedans being not unlike those of the former + Christians, being in fact a composition of Hebrew and Christian + morality. They acknowledge Jesus Christ to be a prophet, and tell + us, that, in this respect, they are on the safe side, as we impute + no Divine authority to Muhamed. But a most violent repugnance to + Christians has been propagated by the (_Fakeers_) Muselmen saints, + or holy men. They have industriously circulated the belief of an + old superstitious prediction which they have on record, viz. that + the Christians will invade the Muhamedan countries, take their +268 cities and towns, and establish the Christian religion on the ruins + of that of Muhamed, and take possession of the country. These + reports, propagated, as before observed, by the (_Fakeers_) + Muhamedan saints, among the lower orders, have kindled a high + degree of rancour and animosity, (equal to that which the Catholics + formerly indulged towards their protestant brethren,) which will + never be extinguished until a friendly alliance and extensive + commercial intercourse be established with them; which alone can + soften this rancour and animosity into peace and amity. This + animosity has been increased also by the rancorous anti-christian + disposition manifested towards these people by the writings of + Roman catholic priests and others.[179] If these uncharitable + opinions of each other could be eradicated, the blessings that + would result to the Africans would be incalculable; a reciprocal + exchange of good offices might pave the way to purchase of the + Emperor of Marocco the port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz, aptly + denominated, from its contiguity to the Sahara (_Beb Sudan_) "the + gate of Sudan," which, in the hands of the English, would be the + key to the whole of the interior of Africa, and an effectual link +269 in our chain of communication with the interior of that + undiscovered continent; it would moreover secure to us the entire + commerce of those extensive and populous regions, to the exclusion + of our Moorish competitors of Cairo, Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, + Algiers, and other ports of Barbary, who supply the people of Sudan + with European merchandise at the fourth, fifth, and sixth hand. + + [Footnote 178: _Kaffer (or Caffre_) is an Arabic word which + signifies infidels or unbelievers (in Muhamed); the very name + has been given by Muhamedans, and therefore it is to be + presumed that the Muhamedans approximate the countries + contiguous to the Cape.] + + [Footnote 179: See Martin Martinius. Abraham Ecchellensis. + Maccarius, Theolog. Polemic. Peter Cevaller. Robert de Retz, + translator of the Koran. See also the support of this assertion + in Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, enlarged + edition, published by Cadell and Davies, Strand, from p. 196. + to 208.] + + The abolition of the slave-trade cannot be effected until we shall + have substituted some commerce with the Negro countries, equivalent + at least, or that shall be more than equivalent to it, otherwise + the negro sovereigns of Sudan will never be induced to relinquish + so great a source of profit. Every naval officer in His Majesty's + service knows, that if we were to have thirty sail of the line + continually off the coast of Guinea, it would not be sufficient to + annihilate this abominable traffic, or to deter people from + embarking in a trade that yields such extraordinary profits. This + being admitted, as it certainly will be by every intelligent man, + it follows, that the system now in operation by the British + government for the abolition of the slave-trade, will be attended + only with an unnecessary expense to this country, without the + possibility of effecting the desired object; but, on the contrary, + judging from recent events, there is every reason to presume, that + this detestable commerce will increase, as it has continued to + increase, these last two or three years, in spite of all our +270 operations to prevent it; the Spaniards alone having imported into + the island of Cuba more slaves in 1818 and 1819, than in the four + preceding years. The result has been, that that island has + produced, in 1819, more than double the produce of the former year; + their waste lands, accordingly, are in progressive cultivation, + and, if they go on thus improving, that island, in a few years + hence, will produce coffee and sugar sufficient for the supply of + all the markets of Europe. + + Finally, Slavery will never give way to any thing but civilisation; + the civilisation of Africa can never be accomplished but through a + great and extensive commercial intercourse, a commerce that will + _enrich the negroes, and enable them, by a supply of arms, to + contend with and gain an ascendancy over their Muhamedan + oppressors_, who want no other pretext for attacking them, than + that of their being idolaters, which idolatry, it is asserted, + authorises the Muselman to make them slaves. Thus, _the abolition + of slavery must depend on the Africans themselves_; and although it + is in our power to supply them with the means for _their + emancipation_, yet it is absurd to suppose that we can effect it by + our naval operations. If all the great sovereigns of Europe were to + agree to make the trading in slaves piracy, they would not prevent + it. WE cannot emancipate them; _that only can be accomplished by + their own energy_, awakened in them by commercial intercourse, and + its accompanying civilisation. +271 + Much might be done if all the African societies were to unite their + interest, knowledge, and abilities for this desired object. If the + African Company would unite their energies with the African + Association, and with the African Institution, such an union would + promote the civilisation of the African continent, and the + conversion of the Negroes to Christianity. + + ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOSQUES. + + The architecture of this country is of the Gothic character. The + mosques are built somewhat like our churches: the body of the + mosques are covered with green glazed tiles; the steeples are + invariably an exact square, the sides being ten or twelve feet, not + tapering as those of Coventry, but the top having the same + dimensions as the base. At the top is erected a smaller square, + with a flag-staff similar to a gallows, to which is suspended every + day at noon, a white flag, the signal of preparation for prayers; + but on Fridays, the Muhamedan Sabbath, a dark-blue one is + substituted for the same purpose. Some of the mosques are paved + with white and black chequered marble, some are tessellated + pavements, consisting of white, blue, and green glazed tiles, about + two inches square, a very pretty mode of paving, extremely clean, + and has a very cool appearance; others are terrassed, which is lime +272 and small stones beaten down with wooden mallets. They excel in the + art of making terras. The houses are all flat roofed, so as to + resist the heaviest rains: the declivity of the terrasses is so + imperceptible, that it is just sufficient to give the rains a + tendency to the great conduit or pipe that leads to the mitfere + underneath the house, which is underground, and has a terras + bottom, impervious to the water. Here is collected water sufficient + for the family or household during the year; the lime that washes + into the mitfere from the terrassed roof, purifies the water, and + preserves it from worms and other insects. They have no ornaments + in their mosques; but the place where the Mufti or Fakeer reads + prayers, is covered with mats or carpets; the rest of the floor is + bare, and the respective individuals prostrate themselves on the + bare floor, or on an antelope's or _Elhorreh_[180] skin, or the + skin of a lion or tiger, prepared in a superior manner by the + tanners at Marocco, the leather of which is made soft as silk, and + white as snow. + + [Footnote 180: For a description of this curious animal, see + Jackson's Marocco, page 83, Chapter on Zoology.] + + The bodies of the dead are never laid in the mosques or near them, + but are invariably carried out of the town, to some coba[181] in +273 the vicinity. The bodies of the dead are washed, and covered with + lawn, and placed on an oblong wooden machine, resembling a box + without a cover, called a _kiffen;_ it has four legs about six + inches long, to uphold it from the ground, and two horizontal + projections at each end, to place on the shoulders of four men, + generally the nearest relations of the deceased, who thus carry the + body to the grave, chaunting with the whole company, amounting + sometimes to some hundreds, _La Allah, ila Allah wa Muhamed Rassule + Allah_, "There is no God but God, and Muhamed is the prophet of + God." This repetition may appear extraordinary to the English + reader; but let it be observed that the Muhamedans never use the + pronoun for the name of the Omnipotent, but invariably the noun. + The body is taken out of the bier, and laid in the ground, the face + upwards, without any coffin or box, the legs towards Mecca, and + then covered with earth, so that it might, at the resurrection, + rise with its eyes towards (_El Kaaba_) Muhamed's mausoleum. No + money is paid for the ground, nor is any expense paid for a + monument: a stick or a stone stands erect at the head, and another +274 at the feet. If the deceased lived a moral, inoffensive, and + exemplary life, the public, at its own expense, oftentimes erects + (_kaba_) a cubical building with a dome at the top to the departed, + and he is thence denominated (_fakeer_) a saint. + + [Footnote 181: A coba is a cubical building, about forty or + fifty feet square, having a dome on the top, inhabited by a + fakeer; the ground adjacent to this building is consecrated for + the dead, but is never inclosed. The living reverence the dead + by never, riding over these grounds; but travellers, in passing + stop and repeat a fatha. When the ground has been consecrated + to the dead, and the _coba_ has an inhabitant, who must be a + sanctified person, he immediately assumes the name of fakeer or + priest, and the building, and cemetery attached to it, becomes + a _zowia_ or sanctuary.] + + The palaces of this country generally consist of a perfect square + wall, containing from two to forty acres of land, or more; for the + imperial palace at Mequinas covers about two square miles of + ground. At each corner of the square is a cubical building, with an + angular top, of green glazed tiles, having four windows, one in + each side; in the centre of the square is the palace, surrounded by + a colonnade one or two stories high. The pavement is either + tessellated or of chequered marble; some of the walls of the rooms + are also tessellated with arabesque, borders, the ceilings are + painted with gay colours, viz. scarlet, sky-blue, green, yellow, + and orange, in arabesque, and some of them are very elegant. The + houses of the opulent are diminutive imitations of the palaces. The + house of (_the Talb Câduse_) the minister of the Sultan Seedi + Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Marocco, is a building, elegantly neat. + Abd Rahamen ben Nassar's house at Mogodor, is well deserving the + investigation of an European architect, and his magnificent new + house at Saffee, is a model of a particular style of architecture. + Some of the houses of the princes and the military at Mequinas are +275 handsome buildings, and many of the houses of the opulent merchants + at Fas, who have their commercial establishments at Timbuctoo, and + other countries of Sudan, are extremely neat and truly unique, + having beautiful gardens in the interior, ornamented with the + choicest and most odoriferous flowers and shrubs; with fountains of + running water, clear as crystal, delectable to behold in this warm + climate, and such as are not to be seen in any part of Europe. + +276 + + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, + AND + ANECDOTES; + + _Illustrating the Nature and Character of the Country_. + + + + + + INTRODUCTION. + + In recording the following Anecdotes and Fragments the naked truth + is stated, without the embellishments of language, or the labour of + rhetoric, which the wiser part of mankind have always approved of + as the most instructive way of writing; and all such as are + acquainted with books will readily agree with me, that many authors + stretch, even to the prejudice of truth, from an affectation of + elegance of style. + + The following facts, therefore, will form the materials for a + history, rather than a history itself. + + The study of the _language and customs of the Arabs is the best + comment upon the Old Testament_. The language of the modern Jews is + little to be regarded; their dispersion into various nations, +277 having no fixed habitation, being _wholly_ addicted to their own + interest, their conformation to the respective customs of the + various nations through which they are dispersed; have caused them, + in a great measure, to forget their ancient customs and original + language, except what is preserved in the Bible and in the exercise + of their religion. Whereas the Arabs have continued in the constant + possession of their country many centuries, and are so tenacious of + their customs and habits, that they are, at this day, the same men + they were three thousand years ago. Accordingly, many of their + customs, at this day, remind us of what happened among their + ancestors in the days of Abraham. + + _Trade with Sudan_. + + 1795, June 14th. Two (_Akkabas_) accumulated caravans of Gum Sudan, + called in England "Turkey[182] Gum Arabic," have reached the Arab + encampment of Dikna, not far from the northern confines of the + Sahara; and will be at Santa Cruz, in the province of Suse, in a + fortnight. + + [Footnote 182: This gum is conveyed from Sudan to Alexandria, + in Egypt; there it is shipped off for Smyrna, or + Constantinople, and from thence imported into England.] + + _Wrecked Ships_. + +278 A large ship, supposed to be Spanish, bound to Lima, has been + wrecked near Cape Noon; the cargo consists of lace, silks, linens, + superfine cloths, and is estimated by the Jews, at Wedinoon, to be + worth half a million of dollars. + + _Wrecked Ships on the Coast_. + + Extract of a Letter from James Jackson, and Co. at Mogodor, to + their correspondents in London. January, 1801. + + The wine and dollars per the Perola de Setubal, wrecked on the + coast of Suse, have been recovered from the Arabs, by Alkaid Hamo, + the governor of Santa Cruz; and we have just received them safe by + a boat. If this vessel had been wrecked on the coast of Cornwall, + it is more than probable that the cargo would have been plundered. + We have presented the governor with twenty dollars, for his + extraordinary energy, exertions, and great merit in the recovery of + the whole of this property. + + The Prosperous, Captain Driver, a southwhaler, was wrecked near + Cape Noon, in 1790; the crew was redeemed by me, and brought to my + house at Santa Cruz, after being upwards of two years in captivity + in the Desert: and I sent them all from Santa Cruz to Mogodor on + mules, where, after remaining about two months, the Bull-dog sloop + of war came down from Gibraltar for them, and they were sent off to + her by the imperial order. +279 + _Wrecked Sailors_. + + English seamen that are so unfortunate as to be wrecked on the + coast of Sahara, are generally better treated than the French, + Italian, or Spanish, because there is a greater probability of a + ransom; and because it is well known that the English admit no + slaves in their own country. + + _Timbuctoo Coffee_. + + Coffee grows spontaneously in the vicinage of Timbuctoo, _south of + the Nile Elabeed_. I sent a quantity to Mr. James Willis, formerly + Consul for Senegambia: it was of a bitter taste, which is the + general character of this grain before it is improved by + cultivation. + + _Sand Baths_. + + The Arabs bury the body erect in sand, up to the chin, as a remedy + for several disorders, particularly syphilis. + + _Civil War common in West Barbary_. + + In the provinces of Haha and Suse, particularly in the mountainous + districts, intestine wars frequently prevail: kabyl against kabyl, + village against village, house against house, family against +280 family. In these lamentable wars, which so continually disturb the + peace of society, retaliation is considered an incumbent duty on + every individual who may have lost a relation, so that the embers + of hostility are thus incessantly fanned; and this lamentable + revenge pervades whole clans, to the utter destruction of every + humane and philanthropic propensity, converting the human race to a + degradation below the beasts of the field. + + _Policy of the Servants of the Emperor_. + + The Bashaws, and others holding responsible situations in the + empire, are continually purchasing a good name and good report at + court, by courtesy to and by feeing the ministers of the Emperor to + report favourably of them, whenever opportunity may offer. + Incredible sums are sometimes expended in this way. + + _El_[183] _Wah El Grarbee, or the Western Oasis_. + + The prince, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother of the reigning Emperor, + Muley Soliman, purchased, on his return from the pilgrimage to +281 Mecca, a domain in (Santariah[184]) the Oasis of Ammon or Siwah, as + a retreat; and being appointed by his father Seedi Muhamed, viceroy + of the province of Suse[185], he was enabled to give succour to the + Shelluhs, inhabitants of that province, on their pilgrimage to + Mecca, and to entertain them with the comforts of hospitality on + their passage through the Desert. This was the more agreeable to + these Shelluhs, because, after passing a long journey of some + thousands of miles through Sahara, they reached, at Santariah, not + only a territory yielding every comfort and necessary of life, but + a country wherein their own prince had authority, and wherein their + own native language is spoken and understood. + + [Footnote 183: In the Lybian Desert there are three _Wahs_ (or + _Oasises_, as we call them): the greater, called _El Wah El + Kabeer_; the lesser, called _El Wah Segrer_; and the Oasis of + Ammon, called _El Wah El Grarbie_, i. e. the Wah of the West.] + + [Footnote 184: The Wah of the West is also called by the + Mograbines _Santariah_.] + + [Footnote 185: See the map of West Barbary.] + + When this prince's father, the emperor Seedi Muhamed died[186], the + prince Abdsalam engaged Alkaid Hamed ben Abdsaddock, late governor + of Mogodor, to go to Santariah, and sell this domain for him; which + he accordingly did. It is more than probable that the Shelluhs of + Siwah are an _emigration_ from Suse. + + [Footnote 186: About twenty-eight years since.] + + _Prostration, the etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + +282 An ambassador from Great Britain was sent to the court of Marocco, + during the reign of Seedi Muhamed, father of the present emperor, + Soliman. On his arrival at Fas, (where the court was at that time + held,) the (_Mule M'shoer_) Master of the Audience, who was the + (_Sherreef_) Prince Muley Dris, came up to the ambassador and + informed him, that it was customary for all persons coming into the + imperial presence to take off their shoes, and to prostrate + themselves. To these ceremonies the ambassador objected, alleging + that he was received by the king his master with his shoes on; and + that he presumed the Emperor, on a proper representation being made + to him, would not exact from him greater obedience than he paid to + his own sovereign. The master of the audience reported the + interpretation of the ambassador's remarks to his imperial master. + The emperor paused, and (insinuating that the ambassador was + somewhat presumptuous in placing a Christian king on a par with a + Muselman emperor) commanded the prince to dismiss the ambassador + for that time, till the following day. In the interim, the Emperor + urged the master of the audience to make diligent inquiry how the + Christians conducted themselves in the act of prayer before the + Almighty God; and whether they then uncovered their feet, and + prostrated themselves, as Muhamedans did. The morning following, + the master of audience procured the necessary information + respecting this point, and acquainted the Emperor that the English +283 Christians, like the Jews, prayed erect; but that they uncovered + their heads, and bowed at the name of Jesus of Nazareth. "Go, + then," replied the emperor, "and let the ambassador be presented to + me without uncovering his feet, and without prostration; for I + cannot require more obeisance from a foreigner, than he himself + pays to Almighty God." + + _Massacre of the Jews_, _and Attack on Algiers_. + + In the year 1806, when Algiers was attacked by the Arabs of the + mountains, and by the inhabitants of the plains, the Jews of the + city were massacred. It was suggested to the present Emperor of + Marocco that a favourable opportunity now offered to subdue + Algiers, and add it to the empire: but the Emperor replied, "That + it was wiser to secure and keep together all those provinces that + his father had left him, than to endeavour by _uncertain and + expensive_ warfare to extend his dominions, by invading a + neighbouring nation." + + _Treaties with Muhamedan Princes_. + + Treaties of peace and commerce between the Muselmen princes and + Christian powers, are regarded by the former no longer than it is +284 expedient to their convenience. Muselmen respect treaties no longer + than it is their apparent interest so to do. When an ambassador + once expostulated with his imperial majesty for having infringed on + a treaty made, an emperor of Marocco replied--"Dost thou think I + am a Christian, that I should be a _slave_ to my word?" + + _Berebbers of Zimurh Shelleh_. + + This kabyl of Berebbers inhabit the plains west and south-west of + Mequinas. They are a fine race of men, well-grown, and good + figures; they have a noble presence, and their physiognomy + resembles the ancient Roman. The laws of hospitality, however, are + disregarded among them: they will plunder travellers who sojourn + with them, whenever they have an opportunity. + + _The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation_. + + The late emperor, Muley Yezzid, proceeded from Mequinas to Marocco, + with an army of thirty thousand cavalry, to take the field against + the rebellious Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of the province of + Abda, acting conjointly with the bashaw of the province of + Duquella, who had collected an army of eighty thousand men, of +285 which fifty thousand were horse. The Emperor, on his arrival at + Marocco, was exasperated against the kabyls of the south; and was + informed that the merchants of Mogodor had supplied his rebel + subject, Abdrahaman, with ammunition. Enraged at this report, which + the exasperated state of his mind prompted him to believe, he + issued an order to the Governor of Mogodor, implicating the greater + part of the European merchants of that port of high treason, and + ordered their decapitation. This order was brought by one Fenishe, + a relation of Tahar Fenishe; who had been, some years before, + ambassador from Marocco to the court of St. James's. The Governor, + however, suspecting that the order had been issued in a moment of + irritation, delayed its execution, in the hope that it might be + countermanded; or, in hope that the result of a battle would render + it unnecessary to be put in execution.--Soon afterwards, news + arrived at Mogodor that the two armies had met, had fought, and the + Emperor had vanquished his antagonists, who had more than double + his force, but was himself dangerously wounded. This induced the + governor still further to delay the execution; having now + ascertained that the order was obtained by a stratagem of malicious + and ill-disposed people. The next day news came that the Emperor + suffered extremely from a ball in the upper part of the thigh, +286 which the surgeons could not extract. The Emperor, in a fit of + frenzy, from pain or passion, took his (_kumaya_) dagger, cut open + the wound to the ball, and expired soon after. Thus were the + merchants of Mogodor saved providentially from an untimely death. + + _The Emperor Muley Yezzid's Body disinterred_. + + When the united armies of Abda and Duquella were vanquished and + dispersed by the Imperial troops, in the neighbourhood of Marocco, + the report became general that the Emperor was wounded. It is + asserted that several men in ambush had orders to wait their + opportunity to fire at the Emperor, when he should approach; and + when the Emperor did approach the bush wherein these men lay + concealed, they all fired. It appears, however, that only one shot + had effect. The Emperor finding himself wounded, instead of being + discouraged, was reanimated to the combat, and entered into the + midst of it; a soldier by his side observed to him, that he was + wounded, and whilst expressing his hope that it was not dangerous, + the Emperor, with one stroke of his sabre, cut off his head! Even + after the death of this redoubted warrior, the people trembled, + doubting the truth of his decease. Abdrahaman went personally to + Marocco and had the body disinterred to ascertain the fact, + suspecting that the report of his death might be a stratagem; but +287 having ascertained it, he returned to Saffy, and his brother Muley + Esslemmah was immediately proclaimed by Abdrahaman. Doubts of the + Emperor's death still pervaded the minds of men: it was reported + that he had been seen in the Atlas Mountains, in Draha, in Suse. At + length a person somewhat resembling him in person, appeared between + Wedinoon and Ait Bamaran (see the map): the panic took; and men + from all parts of the country, who had known the Emperor, hastened + to Wedinoon to ascertain the fact. Many who were too curious were + shot by order of this pretender, to prevent the possibility of + their returning to give notice of the imposture. The immense number + of persons who now believed him to be Yezzid was incalculable; his + party increased and multiplied, and he soon had thousands of + followers who supported his cause. The infatuation of the vulgar + and the bulk of the community was astounding; for the renowned + Muley Yezzid, like his Majesty George IV., was the first horseman + in his empire, and the most accomplished gentleman: whereas + Buhellesa[187], for so he was called in derision, was so bad a + horseman that he generally rode a mule. + + [Footnote 187: So called from his generally riding a mule, with + a large stuffed saddle, rising high before and behind, covering + the whole of the mule's back, and forming a very secure seat. + This enormous and ponderous saddle-mattras is called _Hellesa_; + and as the Pretender rode on it, he was called _Bû Hellesa_; + that is the father of a _Hellesa_.] +288 + This man was reported to be an adept in the occult sciences; and it + was both reported and credited, that the occult art enabled him to + multiply corn and provision for the army to any quantity he might + want. I was established at Santa Cruz, which was three days' + horse-travelling from Buhellesa's standard; the (_Shereef,_) Prince + Abdsalam, brother to Yezzid, was then resident there, and Viceroy + of Suse. It was the Prince Abdsalam's desire to destroy this + pretender; for his army and followers exceeded now thirty thousand + men, the Prince sent to Muhamed ben Delemy, khalif of Suse, and + sheik of the Duleim Arabs, whose castle was about thirty miles + south of Santa Cruz. Delemy and the Prince were sworn friends: the + latter proposed to him to give battle to Buhellesa, and so prevent + the empire from being usurped. Neither Delemy nor the Prince had + funds to raise an army; so that neither of them knew what steps to + take. _Delemy, however, with the true spirit of a Bedouin Arab, + supported his friend in his adversity,_ and promised to exert + himself to counteract the operations of the arch-hypocrite + Buhellesa. Collecting the sheiks of the various kabyls of Suse, he + made an energetic harangue to them; and discussed with them the + expediency of their uniting together, to repel the impostor. The + sheiks were all loyal, and well affected to Muley Abd Salam; whose +289 government of Suse, by his khaliff Delemy, added to the + hospitalities with which the Prince entertained the people of Suse + at his domain, the _Wah el Grabie_, or the Oasis of Ammon, called + _Santariah_, ingratiated Muley Abd Salam so much in their favour + and esteem, that they all unanimously (_passed l'âad_[188]) joined + hands, and determined, each individually, to raise his respective + kabyl to support the cause of Muley Abd Salam. In a short time they + raised an army among themselves of ten thousand horse, and + determined to attack Buhellesa, so soon as he should begin to move + forwards, and before he should reach Terodant, in his way to + Marocco; for there he had a strong party, which would augment his + forces. The hero Delemy, who was as valiant a soldier as Muley + Yezzid himself, and as expert and dextrous in the management of the + horse, determined therefore, with less than half the force of his + antagonist, to attack him, before he should be able to gather more + strength. The army of the sheiks joined, and proceeded towards + Wedinoon. At night they learned that Buhellesa, with an army of +290 22,000 men, mostly horse, having been apprised of Delemy's + preparations and movements, had proceeded through Ait Bamaran + towards Shtuka, and that he intended to attack Delemy's castle. On + hearing this, the army halted for an hour, and returned towards + Shtuka again. In the morning they came up with Buhellesa, who was + encamped about four hours south of Delemy's castle. The march of + Delemy's troops, all hardy warriors and men of valour, was so + rapid, that Buhellesa was taken by surprise. The battle lasted + seven hours; during which Delemy's brother was wounded and + unhorsed, in the midst of the enemy's troops: but being unknown, + and in a similar dress with the rest, he recovered himself by the + assistance of some friends, sent to him by his brother the khalif, + and was enabled to rejoin his own troops. Buhellesa was so hard + pressed, that he made his retreat into a house: on being attacked + there, his pistol missed fire, and he was overcome. They + immediately cut off his head and his arms, when his army dispersed, + most of them making the best of their way to Wedinoon. That same + night, the man of Shtuka, who first attacked Buhellesa, was + dispatched with his head and feet to Muley Abd Salam, at Santa + Cruz. + + [Footnote 188: The _L'aad_ of the Arabs is a joining of hands, + without Shaking: the palms of the right hands of the parties + coming in contact with each other, and the thumbs over each + other. This is a solemn obligation among them; a calling God to + witness their resolution of mutual assistance, offensive and + defensive; a swearing to stand by each other till death; an + obligation that nothing can dissolve; such a pledge, that if a + man were to break it, he would be execrated and rejected from + society!] + + The reported approach of Buhellesa, with so strong a force, had + urged me to ship all the property I could collect; and I was on the +291 beach early the following morning, directing the shipment of my + property; when taking a ride along the beach, I met an Arab, with a + basket before him, and a foot sticking out of it. "_Salam u alik_," + I exclaimed, "And what have you got there?"--"_Alik Salam_," said + the Arab, "I have got Buhellesa's head and feet here: I killed him + myself; and the khalif Delemy has sent me with them to the Prince. + Dost thou think the Prince will reward me?"--"Certainly," said I, + "for such an essential service." The Prince gave the Arab one + hundred duckets[189]; the guns were fired; and the head and feet + were hung over an embrasure of the round battery, facing the south. + Thus terminated the career of Buhellesa. + + A short time after this, I was on a visit to Delemy, and he + accompanied me to the field of battle; which was an undulating + plain, not unlike that of Waterloo: and the house to which + Buhellesa made his escape, was not unlike the hotel de la Belle + Alliance on the plains of Waterloo, having, however, a flat roof. + + [Footnote 189: Worth 5_s._ each, but equal to 100_l_., or more, + in that country.] + + _Shelluhs: their Revenge and Retaliation._ + + A Shelluh, of the province of Suse, had been a servant in the house +292 of Mr. Hutchison, British Consul at Mogodor fifteen years; but it + happened to be twenty years since a relation of his, in Suse, had + been killed, to whom he was the next of kin but one: but the next + of kin dying, it devolved upon him to seek retaliation; no + opportunity, however, having occurred, he determined to go to Suse + to fulfil this his calling. Now above twenty years had elapsed + since the death or murder of the relation of Bel Kossem, the + Consul's servant. This man, foregoing the eligibility of his place, + apprised the Consul of his intention to leave him. Mr. Hutchison, + who esteemed him not a little for his long and faithful services, + was astonished to hear of his determination to depart; and, + apprehending that he might want an increase of pay, he offered to + increase it: but Bel Kossem told him that an imperious duty + devolved on him to revenge the blood of his ancestor. Accordingly + he received his wages, and departed forthwith for Suse. A few + months afterwards he found an opportunity of killing his enemy, + which being done, it was expected that this Shelluh would now + return to Mogodor, and resume his place again; but by a parity of + reasoning, it devolved to the next of kin of the man recently + killed to seek revenge for his murdered relation, but Bel Kossem, + to avoid the like fate, went into a distant country. This duty of + revenging death, is rigidly pursued among the Shelluhs, so that one + murder often produces ten, or even twenty deaths; each revenging + his relation or next of kin. +293 + _Travelling in Barbary._ + + It is extremely difficult, whilst travelling in this country, to + ascertain from the natives the distance of any (_douar_) encampment + of Arabs: the general answer to such a question is (_wahud saa_), + "an hour," but this is a very indefinite term, being used for a + distance from two to twelve miles, or more; therefore, as these + people have no definite notions of time or distance, the only way + of ascertaining distances, is by knowing the rate at which the + caravan goes, which is a regular pace, and consulting your watch; + by this means, the distance of any journey, however long, may be + accurately ascertained. + + _Anecdote displaying the African Character, and showing them to be + now what they were anciently, under Jugurtha._ + + A Muhamedan was sent to prison, for having killed a man; and after + remaining there some time, it was expected that the Emperor's order + would come to have him shot, or to have his right hand cut off, + with which it was presumed he killed his enemy. A friend of the + prisoner, willing to liberate him, that he might escape the + punishment that awaited him, engaged a person well acquainted with + the prison to procure his enlargement; accordingly he promised him +294 a sum of money, if he would effect this purpose. It was agreed that + the money should be paid. The liberator was then to prove to the + man advancing the money, that he had accomplished his purpose. The + night in which his liberation was to be attempted was fixed on; + ropes were ready to enable the prisoner to escape over the + prison-wall. In the mean time the next of kin of the man who had + been murdered, sought the blood of the prisoner, and was persuaded + by the man that had engaged to liberate the prisoner, that the + latter was not in prison, that he had made his escape, but that the + former would undertake to put him in his power, so as to enable him + to accomplish his revenge. This was agreed to, and accordingly a + sum of money was paid as a remuneration for the service. All + matters were arranged, and the person who paid the money was + desired to be on the rock, near the prison, outside of the town + wall, at two o'clock in the morning, and there he would find his + enemy. The person who made the first engagement was directed to be + at the same spot at three o'clock. In the mean time the liberation + was effected at two o'clock, and the prisoner was informed that his + friend would meet him under the rock at three o'clock, to conduct + him to a place secure from discovery. Soon after two o'clock, the + next of kin to the person whom the prisoner had killed came and +295 plunged a dagger into his heart; afterwards came the other man, and + saw the body of his friend, whom he recognized. On expostulating + with the liberator, the latter replied, "I have executed my + engagement to liberate your friend; I am entitled to my reward: + what has happened to him since his liberation is no concern of + mine; see you to that. But I should inform you, that soon after his + liberation, I saw a man approach, and fearing that I was + discovered, I ran and hid myself under a rock. In a short time I + returned and found your friend weltering in his blood. When I + approached him, he had just time before he expired to name to me + his murderer, who, he said, was the next of kin to the man he had + himself killed."--Note, The Shelluhs consider it a duty incumbent + on them, each, individually to revenge the blood of their family; + that they are bound to seek the murderer, if possibly he can be + found. Such is their invariable attention to this principle of + revenging blood for blood, that I have known instances of men who + have relinquished eligible appointments, to go into distant + countries, several years after a murder has been committed, to + revenge the death of a relation, after becoming, by intervening + death, the next of kin of the murdered person. + + The lamentable effects of this fatal retaliation is such, that one + death often produces twenty murders, and afterwards involves whole + kabyls in intestine wars. +296 + It is remarkable, that the more duplicity they use in these horrid + transactions, the more merit is ascribed to the agent; who is + praised in proportion to the extent of his ingenuity, or duplicity, + as was the case with the liberator above mentioned. + + _Every Nation is required to use its own Costume._ + + The Jews in West and South Barbary, have a predilection for the + European costume, in preference to their own, the former being + respected, the latter not: moreover the character of a _merchant_ + is highly respected by the Moors, and the European dress is a kind + of passport to a man as such. One day, the Emperor seeing in the + place of audience, at a great distance, a gentleman, apparently an + European ambassador, ordered the master of the audience to go and + see who he was, and what nation he represented; but it being + discovered that he was a Marocco Jew, his scarlet and gold dress + was torn from him, and a _burnose_, (a large black cloak, the + costume of the Jews of the lower order,) was put over him, when he + was buffetted and kicked out of the place of audience. The Emperor + was exasperated at this circumstance, which he considered a vain + deception: he ordered his secretary to write to all the ports in + his dominions, to desire that Jews should wear the _burnose_, that +297 Christians only should wear the European costume, and Moors and + Arabs theirs; so that thus every individual might be known by their + respective dress. On this occasion, an opulent Hebrew merchant at + Mogodor felt so much the insults he was exposed to, from wearing + the Jewish costume, that he actually paid several thousand dollars + to obtain the privilege he had formerly enjoyed, which, in + consequence of his being an opulent man, and a foreign merchant, + was granted to him. + + The name of this gentleman would here be mentioned to gratify the + curious; but as it might give umbrage to his family, and as the + intention here is only to describe the character and manners of the + country, there is, I conceive no necessity for stating + personalities. + + _Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under that Name._ + + This extraordinary character visited Marocco about the year 1805 or + 1806. He pretended to be a native of Aleppo, called in Arabic + _Hellebee_, and was known by the name of Seed Hellebee, which + signifies "the gentleman of Aleppo." Europeans, as well as himself, + since his return to Europe, have converted this name into Ali Bey, + of the family of the Abassides. This gentleman possessed abilities + of no ordinary degree, he was supplied with money in abundance by +298 the Spanish government. He had not been long at Mogodor, when his + munificence began to excite the suspicion of the governor, as well + as the admiration and applause of the populace. Adopting the + costume of the country, he professed himself to be a Muselman; and + as a pretext for not speaking the[190] Arabic language, he + pretended that he had gone from Aleppo, the place of his nativity, + to England when very young, and had forgotten it. He had, as he + declared, considerable property in the Bank of England. Being + desirous of collecting all the information possible respecting the + country, he procured two young Spanish renegado musicians, who + played on the guitar, and sung Arabic airs and songs, with which he + affected to be highly delighted, these musicians, however, served + his purpose in another way; for, being apprehensive of creating + suspicion by direct enquiries, he prevailed on these renegadoes to + procure the information he desired, by giving them from time to + time several questions to which they procured direct answers, as + reported by the natives. + + [Footnote 190: He afterwards learned the Arabic language, and I + believe spoke it tolerably well when he quitted this country + and proceeded to Mekka.] + + One day he gave a _fête champêtre_ at (_L'arsa Sultan_), the[191] +299 Sultan's garden, situated near a very picturesque rivulet, and + contiguous to springs of excellent water, which being collected in + a large tank, was conveyed by an aqueduct, which extended the + length of the garden, to immerge or irrigate the various beds of + flowers and plants. On his return home, as he was crossing the + river near the village of Diabet, a Shelluh shot a large fish as it + was passing the shallows, Seed Hellebee, or Seed Ali Bey admired + the dexterity of the Shelluh, (who, from his quickness, was + nicknamed Deib, i.e. the fox,) and desired him to take the fish to + his house at Mogodor, which he accordingly did, and received from + Ali Bey's secretary a handful of dollars. This Shelluh was a keen + sportsman, and seldom or never missed his shot: he generally + accompanied me in my shooting excursions, and he told me this + circumstance himself, adding, that Ali Bey was such a liberal man, + that, where any other gentleman gave a dollar, he gave a handful. + It was in this manner that Ali Bey purchased his popularity. + + [Footnote 191: This garden is in the province of Haha, about + five miles S.S.E. of Mogodor, and belongs to the European + Commerce, to whom it was presented by the Late Emperor Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah.] + + The governor of Mogodor, Alkaid Muhamed ben Abdsaddock now began to + suspect, not only the faith of this _soi disant_ Muhamedan, but + that he had some design unavowed; and desirous of ascertaining to + what nation of Christendom he belonged, the governor engaged + Monsieur Depras, a respectable French merchant of Mogodor, who + understood several languages, to ascertain if he was a Frenchman, +300 and if not, who and what he was. The governor, in order to enable + M. Depras to converse with Ali Bey, invited them both to tea; this + introduction being effected the next day, Depras called on Ali Bey, + and conversed with him during an hour in the French language, which + he spoke so well, that the former thought there was no doubt of his + being a Frenchman. But soon after this, the Spanish Consul was + announced, and being introduced, Seed Ali Bey changed his discourse + to Spanish, which he also spoke so correctly, that Depras now + altered his opinion, and conceiving him to be a Spaniard, took his + leave. He then reported to the governor what he had seen and heard, + that he spoke French and Spanish so fluently, that he really did + not know whether he was a Frenchman or a Spaniard. + + Ali Bey continued to live in a most sumptuous and costly style, and + afterwards resolved to visit Marocco. On his journey thither, he + was particularly inquisitive respecting the population, produce, + names and residencies of the (sheiks) chiefs of Haha and Shedma, + through which provinces he passed. On his arrival at Marocco, he + still continued his magnificent establishment and sumptuous mode of + living; distributing money to the people bountifully, on the most + trifling occasions, which mode of conduct procured him universal + popularity among the lower orders. This soon excited the suspicions +301 of Alkaid Bushta, the governor of Marocco, who ingenuously informed + him, that such liberality was fit only for a Christian country, and + that he was mistaken if he flattered himself that it would be + tolerated at Marocco, and actually desired him to adopt a different + and a more parsimonious system, if he wished to be quiet; alleging, + that his munificence exceeded that of his Imperial Majesty, which + was highly indecorous; but afterwards finding little attention was + paid to his injunction, he published a decree throughout the city, + that any one that should be found asking for, or receiving money + from Ali Bey, should have a very severe bastinado! After residing + some time at Marocco, he expressed a desire to visit the Atlas + mountains, which appear a few miles east of Marocco, but which are, + in fact, a whole day's journey; their immense size and height + making them to appear so much nearer than they really are. Ali Bey + apprehending the hostility of Alkaid Bushta, he procured an + imperial order to visit the Atlas, but Bushta opposed it, and would + not, he said, permit him, he being governor of Marocco, without + having himself directly from the Emperor a permission to that + purpose. He then represented to the Emperor the impolicy of + allowing him to go and examine that country; and the imperial order + was immediately countermanded. + + People now began to imagine that he was an agent of Bonaparte; and + their suspicion that he was a Christian spread far and near. It was +302 discovered also that he had corns on his feet, excrescences unknown + to Muselmen, whose shoes are made tight over the instep, and loose + over the toes, so that the latter being unconfined and at liberty, + they never have corns. + + Notwithstanding all these suspicions, the courtesy and suavity of + the manners of Ali Bey had such influence on the imperial mind, + that Muley Soliman gave him a beautiful garden to reside in, + wherein there was a (_kôba_) pavilion. Ali Bey, finding his + influence considerable, erected with architectural taste several + edifices, suited, as he thought, to the imperial _gusto_, in which + he succeeded so well that his Imperial Majesty, when he returned + the next year to Marocco, resided almost exclusively in one of the + pavilions which he had erected. + + The splendour of the imperial favour did not however continue long; + for Ali Bey began now to be suspected by the Emperor himself, and + it was bruited that his renegadoes had acted treacherously towards + him. + + Ali Bey's knowledge of astronomy was peculiarly gratifying to the + Emperor. He could not altogether withdraw from him his attention. + The Emperor urged him to take unto himself a wife, and become an + useful member of society; but Ali objected, alleging various + motives for refusing. He was however at length prevailed on to + comply with the imperial injunction, and the Emperor gave him a +303 young girl to marry. It was anticipated that his new wife was a + political one, and would betray him to be an uncircumcised dog. The + wife, however, became extremely attached to him, and no information + could be procured from her to favour the plot that had been laid + for him. Various suspicions having increased respecting him, the + Emperor finally resolved that he should quit his territory; and an + order was issued that himself, his wife, and slaves should be + escorted to the port of L'Araich, and there embark for Europe. When + the military guard, however, had reached the port of L'Araich, the + boat being ready, Ali Bey was desired to embark, when, not + suspecting any stratagem, the boatmen pushed off, leaving his + disconsolate wife on the beach, bewailing his abrupt departure. The + lady appeared deeply affected with this sudden and unexpected + separation; and jumping out of the litter tore her dishevelled + hair, and distributed it to the winds, and with loud shrieks, which + pierced the air, demonstrated to him how sorely she lamented his + premature departure, and violent separation. His principal slave + was sold, by order of the Emperor's minister, to Seed Abdel'mjeed + Buhellel, a merchant of Fas, who was lately in London, and the + money was given to his wife. + + During his residence at Fas, he predicted an eclipse, and, having + foretold to the people of that city, that it would happen at such a +304 time, they waited for the event with considerable curiosity. Now + his knowledge of futurity had spread abroad with demonstrations of + amazement; the eclipse happened precisely at the time he had + predicted, which established his fame as an (_alem min alem_), a + man wiser than the wise. + + During the latter part of his residence in West Barbary, a report + prevailed that Bonaparte was preparing an immense army to invade + and subjugate the country. Ali Bey was not only suspected to be his + secret agent, but some persons were even ridiculous enough to + declare that he was Bonaparte himself in disguise; and accordingly + he was denominated _Parte_, for they would not add _Bona_, as that + word signifies good, in the _lingua franca_ of Barbary, and + Bonaparte, they said was not good, but a devil incarnate; so they + called him Parte. Last year I met in London the Moor who had + purchased Ali Bey's slave, and he told me that his son by the + before-mentioned wife lives at Fas; that he is a very amiable and + intelligent youth, about fifteen or sixteen years of age; and that + he is very poor, and would have starved, but for the charity and + protection of the highly respected fakeer of the city of Fas, Muley + Dris, under whose roof he resides, and is indebted to him for + protection and patronage. This man would be an acquisition to the + African Association, and means might be adopted to engage him in +305 their service to explore Sudan. + + _The Emperor's Attack of Diminet, in the Atlas_. + + The emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah levied a powerful army, and + took the field against Diminet, in the mountains of Atlas, east of + Marocco. The people of Diminet, and the territory of Berebbers, + east of that country, had also levied a strong force to defend + themselves. The Diminets were taken by surprise; for they had not + had intimation of an attack from Marocco. The Emperor himself, with + a few attendants disguised in the Berebber dress, advanced a few + miles ahead of the army. A party of mountaineers had received + orders from their sheik, (when the latter was informed that the + Emperor's army was coming against them,) to seek the Emperor, and + endeavour to kill him. They mistook the Emperor and his party for + Berebbers, as His Majesty spoke the language correctly, and had in + the early part of his life lived among them. "Where is the + Emperor's guard?" the mountaineers enquired; "for we are in search + of them: we hear he is coming to attack us, in our inaccessible + mountains; but we will be beforehand with him, and dispatch him + before he reaches us. Dost thou know where he is, or where his + guard is." "We do know," replied the Emperor; "for, about an hour + behind us, we passed a few men on horseback, among whom was the + Emperor; but the army is a long way behind: if you make speed, you + will soon pass him, and it will be an easy matter for you to put +306 the whole party to the sword, for they are not a dozen altogether." + The Berebbers, elated with this news, communicated from a party + whom they mistook for brethren of the neighbouring kabyl, rode off + at speed to seek their enemy, and in a short time found themselves + surrounded by the Emperor's army, who were scattered about in + ambush. These Berebbers were all secured, and were threatened with + torture if they would not discover where the army of their brethren + was, and what was their plan. The party discovered the plan and the + place of their encampment, which was not far off in recesses of the + mountain, and received a promise of remuneration if found correct. + By this discovery, the imperial army was enabled to surprise the + rebels; the latter were dispersed, and their houses burned. Thus + were they prevented from _harassing_ the Emperor's army, which is + their ordinary mode of warfare. To subjugate these people would be + impossible: it has often been attempted, but never succeeded. The + only lien the Emperor can get of them is, by having at court about + his person their sheik, whom he then makes answerable for the + obedience of the kabyl. + + _Moral Justice_. + + The imperial army being encamped in Temsena, on the confines of +307 Tedla, (see the map,) an Arab chieftain found that a friend of the + Emperor came into his _keyma_[192] at night, and took liberties + with his wife. The Arab suspected that he was (_shereef_) a prince, + and therefore did not dare to kill him, but preferred a complaint + to the Emperor. The Emperor was vexed to hear of such a gross + breach of hospitality, and asked what time he made his visits? "At + one hour after midnight," the Arab replied. Then, said the Emperor, + "when he comes, do you let me know by giving the watch-word to this + man, and he will then know what to do; and depend thou on my seeing + justice done to thee for the aggression." The marauder came; the + Arab repaired to the guard of the imperial tent, and gave the word; + the guard apprised the emperor, as he was directed, who personally + repaired to the tent of the Arab, and, being convinced of the fact, + ran the man through with his lance; this was done without a light. + The body was brought before the tent, and it was discovered to be + an officer of the imperial guard. The Emperor, on seeing that it + was not a shereef (a prince) prostrated himself in fervent prayer + for a considerable time. The courtiers who were all assembled by + this time to witness this extraordinary occurrence, wondered what + could induce the Emperor to be so fervent in prayer; which his + majesty observing, told them, "that he went alone to the tent, +308 thinking that nobody but a shereef would have dared to commit such + a breach of hospitality, in so open a manner; therefore he killed + him without having a light, lest, on discovering him to be a + prince, personal affection might give way to justice; but that when + he discovered that it was not a relation, he returned thanks to God + Almighty, that, in his determination to have justice administered, + he had not killed his own son!" + + [Footnote 192: _Keyma_ is the name for an Arab's tent; they are + made of goats' hair, and are black.] + + _Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers of Atlas_. + + March 10, 1797. The Sultan Soliman proceeds with a powerful army + against the warlike province of Shawiya, the rebellious Arabs' + retreat. The imperial army takes some of the women who are renowned + for personal charms. The army can get no food; and, being in danger + of starving, returns to Salee. The Arabs promise submission, in + hopes of having the women restored; but the Emperor's officers + violate them. The Arabs swear vengeance (_alia l'imin_[193]) by + their right hand. The emperor attacks them again, is repulsed, and + returns to Fas. + + [Footnote 193: _Alia l'imin_, swearing by the right hand, is a + sacred oath; and those who take it will not swerve from its + obligation, which is peremptory.] + + _Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans_. + + One of the Emperor's ministers, when an English fleet was cruising +309 off Salee, and just after some impost had been levied on the + merchandise already purchased and warehoused by the Christian + merchants, suggested the impolicy at that moment, of harsh measures + against Europeans: the Emperor, in a jocose manner, asked what harm + he could suffer from the fleets of Europeans? "They could destroy + your Imperial Majesty's ports," replied the minister. "Then I would + build them again for one-half what it would cost them to destroy + them. But if they dared to do that, I could retaliate, by sending + out my cruisers to take their trading ships, which would so + increase the premiums of insurance (for the (_kaffers_) infidels + insure all things on earth, trusting nothing to God[194]), that + they would be glad to sue for peace again." + + [Footnote 194: The Muhamedans abuse the Christians for their + mistrust of Providence, exemplified in their insuring ships, + merchandise, &c.] + + _Political Deception_. + + When an embassy is going to the Emperor, the alkaid of the escort + endeavours to make the present, which necessarily accompanies every + embassy, as bulky and conspicuous as possible, that the Arabs of + the kabyls through which they pass, may be dazzled and astounded + with the great appearance of the presents, which the alkaid + proclaims to consist chiefly of money, or treasure. The Arabs + accordingly observed, on Mr. Matra's (the British consul) presents, + that the English, who had conquered Bonaparte in Egypt, and were + masters of the ocean and seas, yet were tributary to the Sultan. + This idea is industriously propagated by the officers of the + Emperor's court. "Thinkest thou," they ohserved, "that these + Christians give such large presents with a free-will? Certainly + not! They are compelled to do so. The (_Romee_) Europeans are too + fond of money to give it away in such loads,--even the English, + thou seest, are tributary to the Seed." [195] + + [Footnote 195: A higher title among the _true Arabs_ than + Emperor: it implies conjointly, Emperor, Father of the People, + Protector, and Brother.] + + _Etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + + The European commerce of Mogodor went to pay their respects to the + Emperor Seedi Muhamed, on his arrival, from Fas, at Marocco, as is + customary. The Emperor's son, Muley El Mamune, was master of the + audience, and ordered the commerce to advance into the imperial + presence; and standing barefooted, as is the custom before the + Emperor, he requested the merchants to take off their shoes, as + _he_ had done; but they expostulated, and said it was not their + custom. The Prince, however, stopped them, and would not allow them + to approach the imperial presence without first submitting to this + ceremony. Seedi Muhamed, observing the impediment, and knowing the +311 cause, but willing at the same time to initiate the young prince in + the custom of foreign countries, called his son to him, and said, + "What do muselmen do, when they enter the _Jamaa_?"[196] "Revere + the holy ground, by entering barefooted," replied the prince.--"And + what do the Christians, when they enter their church?"--"They take + off their hats," rejoined the Prince. (_Allah e berk Amer + Seedi_,[197]) "God bless your Majesty's life."--"Then, what would + you more of these my merchants, than that they pay me, even the + same respect that they pay when they pray to _Allah_. Let them + approach uncovered, with their shoes on, which they never take off, + but to go to bed to rest". + + [Footnote 196: An Arabic or Korannick word, signifying, the + congregation of prayer, or mosque.] + + [Footnote 197: A term invariably used at court, in addressing + the Emperor.] + + * * * * * + + The province of Ait Atter, or the Atterites, in Lower Suse, is + considered as an independent province, and it pays no tribute. They + have a great dislike to _kadis_[198], _talbs_, and attornies, + alleging that they only increase disputes between man and man, + which is not at all necessary; all disputes are, therefore, decided + by the sheik, who is not a logical wrangler, but decides according +312 to the simplest manner. The following decree of their sheik is on + record:-- + + "Four men conjointly bought a mule, which for elucidation, we will + call A, B, C, and D: each claimed a leg. D's leg was the off-hind + one. In a few days this leg began to swell: it was agreed to cure + it by (_el keeh_) burning it with a hot iron, (a common remedy in + this country.) This done, the mule was turned out, and went into a + field of barley. Some spark was attached to the hoof, and set fire + to the corn, which was consumed. The proprietors of the barley + applied to the sheik for justice; and A, B, C, and D, the owners of + the mule, were summoned to appear. The sheik, finding the leg which + caused the barley to be burnt, belonged to D, ordered him to pay + the value of the barley. D expostulated, and maintained that he had + no right to pay; for, if it had not been for A, B, and C's portions + of the mule, the barley would have remained. "How so?" replied the + sheik. "Because," quoth D, "the leg which belongs to me cannot + touch the ground; but it was brought to the corn-field by the legs + of A, B, and C, which were the efficient cause of the ignition of + the barley. The sheik reversed his decree, and ordered A, B, and C + to pay the damage, and D got off without expense. + + [Footnote 198: _Kadis_, i.e. judges. _Talbs_, i.e. record + writers. _Kadi_ is generally spelt by the Europeans of the + south _Cadi_, because they have no K in their alphabet: the + Arabs have no C; the letter is _Kaf_ or K, not C.] + +313 + _Customs of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas, viz. of Idaultit_ + (_in Lower Suse_.) + + The mountains of Idaultit are inhabited by a courageous and + powerful people, strict to their honour and word, unlike their + neighbours of Elala. They make verbal contracts between themselves, + and never go to law, or record their contracts or agreements, + trusting implicitly to each other's faith and honour. If a man goes + to this country to claim a debt due, he cannot receive it while + there, but must first leave the country, and trust to the integrity + of the Idaultitee, who will surely pay when convenient, but cannot + bear compulsion or restraint. They do not acknowledge any sultan, + but have a divan of their own, called _Eljma_, who settle all + disputes between man and man. These people cultivate the plains, + when there is no khalif in Suse; but when there is, they retire to + the fastnesses in their mountains, and defy the arm of power; + satisfying themselves with the produce of the mountains. + + _Connubial Customs_. + + The (_shereef_) Prince Muley Bryhim, son of the present Emperor + Soliman, was married to the daughter of the bashaw Abdrahaman ben + Nassar, who was powerful and rebellious, and prevented the Emperor + for some time from proceeding to the south. This couple was married +314 in 1803. The bashaw died the same year; and in 1805 she was + divorced, and sent by the Emperor to Mogodor, with orders to a + sheik of Shedma to marry her, it being considered a degradation for + a prince to be united to the daughter of a rebellious subject. This + happened in January, 1806. The widow of the late Prince Muley + Abdrahaman, who rebelled against his father, and who was elder + brother to the Emperor Soliman, has been recently sent by the + Emperor to Bu Azar, a negro bashaw, and governor of the city of + Terodant, in Suse, to marry her. These marriages are promoted by + the royal decree, to prevent the females from contaminating the + royal blood by illicit connection, if they remain divorced, without + a new husband. + + _Political Duplicity_. + + A fakeer having interceded in behalf of a state prisoner, his + friend, who was confined in the island of Mogodor (the state prison + of the empire, except for princes, who are sent to Tafilelt), the + Emperor assured him he would release him; and urged the fakeer to + proceed to Mogodor, and wait there his Majesty's arrival. The + fakeer departed, and soon after his arrival at Mogodor, he learned + that the Emperor was not going there; but the alkaid of Mogodor + showed him a letter from the Emperor, ordering him to retain the + prisoner in safe keeping, and not attend to what the fakeer should + say. This system of breaking engagements and promises, is too often +315 denominated policy. "Dost thou think I am a Christian," said an + emperor to a prince who was expostulating with him for not + fulfilling his engagements,--"Dost thou think I am a Christian, to + be a slave to my word?" + + Senor P. a Spanish merchant, received a letter from the Emperor, + directed to the (_alkaid_) governor of Rabat, ordering him to show + Senor P. every attention, and to assist him if he should be + desirous of establishing a house at Rabat. Senor P. left the court + at Mequinas, well satisfied with his letter; but a few days after + his arrival, the alkaid told him he must embark and quit the + country in twenty-four hours, by the Emperor's order, which he + showed to Senor P. who could read Arabic. He was obliged to embark + immediately. + + _Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco_. + + If the Emperor should enquire about any person that has recently + died, it is not the etiquette to mention the word "death,"--a + muselmen is supposed never to die;--the answer is _Ufah Ameruh_, + "his destiny is closed," or "he has completed his destiny." To + which the following answer is invariably given--_Allah ê Erhammoh_, + "God be merciful to him." If a Jew's death is announced to any + muselman prince, fakeer, or alkaid, the expression is, _Maat hashak + asseedi_, "He is dead, Sir." _Ashak_ is an Arabic idiom, the exact + meaning of which cannot easily be conveyed in English; but it may +316 be assimilated to--"Pardon me for mentioning in your presence a + name contemptible or gross (as Jew)." Thus, for further elucidation + to the enquirer after the peculiarities of language, _Kie 'tkillem + ma el Kaba hashak asseedi_,--"He is talking with a prostitute--your + pardon, Sir, for the grossness of the expression." + + If a man goes to the alkaid, to make a complaint against any one + for doing any indecent act, and in relating the circumstance he + omits the word _hashak asseedi_, the persons present will interrupt + him thus,--_Kul hashak b'adda_, "Say _hashak_ before you proceed." + Blood, dung, dirt, pimp, procuress, prostitute, traitor, &c. &c. + are words that (in correct company) are invariably followed by the + qualifying word _hashak_. + + If a Christian is dead, the expression is _Mat el kaffer, or Mat el + karan, or Mat bel karan_, "The infidel is dead, the cuckold, or + the son of a cuckold is dead." + + _Food_. + + _Kuscasoe_ is, flour moistened with water, and granulated with the + hand to the size of partridge-shot. It is then put into a steamer + uncovered, under which fowls, or mutton, and vegetables, such as + onions, and turnips, are put to boil: when the steam is seen to + pass through the _kuscasoe_ it is taken off and shook in a bason, + to prevent the adhesion of the grains; and then put in the steamer + again, and steamed a second time. When it is taken off, some +317 butter, salt, pepper, and saffron, are mixed with it, and it is + served up in a large bowl. The top is garnished with the fowl or + mutton, and the onions and turnips. When the saffron has made it + the colour of straw, it has received the proper quota. This is, + when properly cooked, a very palatable and nutritious dish. + + _Hassua_ is gruel boiled, and then left over the fire two hours. It + is made with barley not ground into flour, but into small particles + the size of sparrow-shot. It is a very salubrious food for + breakfast, insomuch that they have a proverb which intimates that + physicians need never go to those countries wherein the inhabitants + break their fast with _hassua_. + + _El Hasseeda_ is barley roasted in an earthen pan, then powdered in + a mortar, and mixed with cold water, and drank. This is the + travelling food of the country--of the Arab, the Moor, the + Berebber, the Shelluh, and the Negro; and is universally used by + travellers in crossing the Sahara: the Akkabas that proceed from + Akka and Tatta to Timbuctoo, Houssa, and Wangara, are always + provided with a sufficient quantity of this simple restorative to + the hungry stomach. + + _The Woled Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the + Plains of Marocco_. + + This populous, powerful, and valiant kabyl, during the former part + of the reign of the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of +318 the present Emperor Soliman, occupied the plains west of the city + of Marocco (being an emigration from the Bedouin tribe of the same + name in the Sahara); but their depredatory disposition made + travelling through their territory unsafe; wherefore the Emperor, + after endeavouring in vain to make an example of them, issued a + decree that they should all to a man leave his dominions, and they + were driven by his army out of their country to the south, and + entered the Sahara. The whole kabyl was thus outlawed, so that they + were plundered and killed as they passed through the plains of + Fruga, Ait Musie, Haha, and Suse, by the natives of those countries + respectively. Not half the number that emigrated, (which was some + thousands,) reached the original clan in the Sahara. + + _The Koran, called also El Kateb el Aziz_. + + The word Koran conveys the same signification as _Bible_: it means + "the reading" or "the book;"--_kora_, "to read; "_el Kateb el + Aziz_, i.e. "the dear or beloved book," meaning thereby the + _Koran_. + + _Arabian Music_. + + The Sultan Seedi Muhamed, after hearing the musical band of the + Marquis de Vialli, ambassador from Venice, expressed his + gratification at the music of the Italians, and laconically + observed that it possessed more harmony than that of any other + nation, excepting his own. +319 + _Sigin Messa_. (_Sigilmessa_.) + + The country of Sigin Messa, called in the maps Sigilmessa, was the + state prison of the kingdom of Suse, when it formed a part of the + empire of Muley el Monsore, in the twelfth century of the Christian + era. Messa, a port in Suse, was then a large city, and the capital + of the kingdom of Suse. The state prisoners were sent to a place of + safe keeping, which was east of Tafilelt, and was therefore called + Sigin Messa, i.e. the prison of Messa. + + _Mungo Park at Timbuctoo_. + + In the month of March, 1806, a letter was received at Mogodor by + Seedi L'Abes Buhellal Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo. + This letter was in Arabic, and the following is an extract + literally translated from it by myself:-- + + "A boat arrived a few days since from the West at Kabra, having two + or three Christians in it. One was (_rajel kabeer_) a tall man, who + stood erect in the boat, which displayed (_shinjuk bied_) a white + flag. The inhabitants of Kabra did not, however, understand the + signal to be emblematic of peace, and no one went to the boat, + although it remained at anchor before Kabra the whole day, till + night. In the morning it was gone." + +320 _Troglodytæ_. + + The Shelluhs of the Atlas, south-east of Santa Cruz, in Suse, + during the rainy season, from November till February inclusive, + live in caves and excavations in the rocks and earth; laying up + provisions sufficient for that period, until the snow begins to + melt. The Berebbers of North Atlas have followed the same custom + from time immemorial. + + _Police of West Barbary_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne, he gave indefatigable + attention to the police. He wished, he said, to make the roads safe + for travellers, from the Desert, or Sahara, to the shores of the + Mediterranean. He was vigilant in discovering thefts, and rigorous + in punishing them. If any one was robbed, he had only to report it + to the Emperor, who would forthwith order the douar where the + robbery was committed to restore the sum stolen, and to pay a fine + to the treasury of the same amount. By adhering strictly to this + system, he improved the revenue, and made travelling perfectly + safe; so that one may travel now (1805), without danger, with + property or money, from one end of the empire to the other. Before + this system of policy was renewed, (for it is an old law of the + land,) travellers with property were obliged to have a _statta_: + thus, if a caravan was going from Terodant or Marocco to Fas, it + took a _statta;_ that is, two men, natives of the district of +321 Rahamena, who accompanied the caravan in safety to the confines of + their territory; they then received a remuneration, and delivered + over the caravan to two men of Abda, who conducted it to the border + of Duquella: it was then delivered into the hands of two Duquella + Arabs; and so it went through the different provinces till it + reached Fas, under the protection, through each province, of a + _statta_, each of which _statta_ receives a remuneration. So that, + by the time of arrival at Fas, the merchandise was sometimes + subject to a charge of 8 or 10 per cent. for _statta_ or convoy + through the various provinces. + + Before the Emperor Soliman thus established his authority, caravans + of gums, almonds, ostrich feathers, gold-dust, &c. &c. from Suse, + were sometimes twenty days going from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, a + distance of less than one hundred miles, the _statta_ being changed + and paid at the entrance of every kabyl, of which there are twelve + in the province of Haha alone; the camels being also changed at + every change of _statta_, increased the charge on the merchandise + to an immoderate amount. It would be a great acquisition to + England, if His Majesty were to negociate with the Emperor of + Marocco for the port of Santa Cruz; for the province of Suse + produces in abundance olive oil, almonds, and gums; worm-seed, + annis-seed, cummin-seed, and orchilla; oranges, grapes, + pomegranates, figs, melons, &c. This port was farmed, during the + reign of Muley Ismael, for an annual stipend. It is the key to +322 Sudan, and a communication might be opened on an extensive scale + from hence with Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and other regions of + Sudan, so as to supply, in a few years, the whole of the interior + of Africa with British and East-India manufactures. + + _Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed_. + + This prince, who was elder brother of the present Emperor Soliman, + had accumulated considerable treasure in executing the office of + (_khalif_) viceroy of the provinces of Duquella, Abda, and Shedma. + His father, jealous of his son's power, when supported by a command + of treasure, had recourse to the usual means of transferring it to + the imperial treasury. It is held as law in this country, that + little is sufficient for every purpose of life. When property + becomes accumulated, it is alleged that more than a sufficiency is + derogatory of the principles laid down in the Koran, and ought to + revolve to the national treasury, there to be deposited as a fund + in reserve against the invasion of the country by the Europeans, an + event, which they are quite sure, from an ancient tradition, will + happen at no very distant period. + + Abdrahaman, however, equally avaricious with his father, objected + to deliver up his treasure; which so irritated the Sultan, that he + ordered a party of his negro soldiers to go to the Prince's house + and seize every thing valuable. These men, in their thirst for + plunder, out-ran their discretion, as it appears; for they +323 proceeded to examine the ladies in the Horem, putting their base + hands on their persons, under the pretence of discovering if they + had concealed their jewels and gold. This outrage roused the + Prince's indignation and he lost no time in absenting himself for + ever from his father's dominions, for this insult on his + dignity.--"If my father," said the Prince, "had taken my treasure, + it would have passed from my hands to his; but to permit the + ignoble hands of slaves to offer me such an indignity, is more than + I can or will suffer." Abdrahaman therefore emigrated to the + province of Lower Suse, on the confines of Sahara, where he + remained encamped, ready, upon any alarm, at a moment's notice, to + penetrate into the Desert. He had always two _heiries_ ready + saddled at the gate of his (_keyma_) tent; one for carrying his + treasure, viz. gold dust and jewels, and the other for himself to + ride, on any emergency. Many fakeers were sent from the Sultan to + the Prince; with the most solemn assurances of his reconciliation, + and with urgent solicitations to him to return; but the Prince + never forgave or forgot the insult. + + _Anecdote of Muley Ismael_. + + Muley Ismael compared his subjects to a bag full of rats.--"If you + let them rest," said the warrior, "they will gnaw a hole in it: +324 keep them moving, and no evil will happen." So his subjects, if + kept continually occupied, the government went on well; but if left + quiet, seditions would quickly arise. This sultan was always in the + tented-field: he would say, that he should not return to his palace + until the tents were rotten. He kept his army incessantly occupied + in making plantations of olives, or in building: rest and rebellion + were with him synonymous terms. + + Before the Portuguese transplanted their African colonies to South + America, they had penetrated far into West Barbary; they frequently + made incursions into the country from Mazagan to Marocco, and + eastward of that city. They had a church near Diminet, on the + declivity of the Atlas, about thirty-five miles east of Marocco, + which is still existing: it is a kind of sanctuary; the Berebbers + say it is haunted; they will not approach it. There is said to be + an inscription on the building in Roman characters, over the + entrance; but I never could ascertain what it is. + + _Library at Fas_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne there was a very + extensive and valuable library of Arabic manuscripts at Fas, + consisting of many thousand volumes. Some of the more intelligent + literary Moors are acquainted with events that happened formerly, +325 during the time of the Roman power, which Europeans do not possess. + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, was perfectly acquainted + with Livy and Tacitus, and had read those works from the library at + Fas. It is more than probable that the works of these authors, as + well as those of many other Romans and Greeks, are to be found + translated into the Arabic language, in the hands of private + individuals in West and in South Barbary. This library was + dispersed at the accession of Muley Soliman, and books commenting + on the Koran only were retained; the rest were burned or dispersed + among the natives. + + _Deism_. + + Deism was very prevalent throughout the empire. When the present + Emperor Soliman came to the throne, the deists went about in large + numbers, exclaiming, _La Allah ila Allah_, "There is no God but + God." The Emperor soon silenced these people, by proclaiming that + if any should be found uttering this truth, without adding, + "Muhamed is his prophet," should ([199]_ekul lassah_) be beat. The + sect soon disappeared. + + [Footnote 199: This punishment is inflicted by two men, one on + each side; the culprit is stretched naked on the ground, and + beat on the back unmercifully, with sticks two yards long, and + as thick as a finger.] +326 + _Muhamedan Loyalty_. + + An alkaid of a district in the province of Abda, when that province + submitted to the Emperor, went to His Majesty, taking with him the + fruit of his government, viz. 100,000 dollars. He prostrated + himself before the Emperor, and announced that he had brought this + money to the Muselman treasury, being what he had collected since + the death of the Emperor's father. "I have lived splendidly, and + have never wanted any thing, or I should have brought Your Majesty + much more treasure." "You have been," said the Emperor, "a faithful + servant, and you shall be rewarded." He was promoted to a + government, and had many opportunities of refunding his loss. A + large sum was returned to him for his fidelity. + + _Cairo_. + + The city of El Kahira is called by Europeans Cairo. When Kairo was + founded, in the 359th year of the Hejra, the planet Mars was in + ascension; and it is Mars who conquers the universe: "therefore," + said Moaz, (the son of El Mansor) to _his_ son, "I have given it + the name of El-Kahira."[200] + + [Footnote 200: El Kahira is the Arabic for the planet Mars, and + signifies _victorious_.] +327 + _Races of Men constituting the Inhabitants of West and South + Barbary, and that Part of Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt and Sejin + Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the Territories of the present + Emperor of Marocco_. + + _The Moors_, who inhabit the towns on the coast, and the cities of + Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, and Terodant; who speak a corrupt Arabic + language. + + _The Berebbers_, who appear to be the Aborigines, and who retain + precisely the same character that was anciently given of the + Mauritanians by Sallust. These people inhabit the mountains of + Atlas, north of the city of Marocco, and have a language peculiar + to themselves. They are a hardy race of warriors, as artful as they + are indefatigable in war; when attacked by the imperial troops, + they defend themselves valiantly; and, by stratagem and device, + often surprise and defeat the Emperor's best troops, the _abeed + Seedy Bukaree_. They call the Negro and Arab troops of the Emperor, + (_mâden el grudder_), a mine of deceit, and never trust to their + vows and promises, even if they swear by the Koran. They are a + restless turbulent race, and have never been conquered. They have + adopted the Muhamedan doctrines. + + _The Shelluhs_, or inhabitants of the Atlas, who dwell in houses in + the mountains south of Marocco, in the province of Haha, and in +328 part of Suse. These are a weaker race, not so athletic and robust + as the Berebbers. Their language has been represented to be similar + to that of the Berebbers, but that is evidently a mistake; I have + travelled through their country, and through the country of the + Berebbers, and have conversed with hundreds, nay, I may say, with + thousands of them: I have no hesitation in declaring them to be a + different race. Their language, costume, and habits differ; the + Shelluhs, however, possess the same art and duplicity with the + Berebbers. + + _The Arabs_, who live in _douars_ of tents, and inhabit the immense + plains west of the Atlas, are the agriculturists of the country. + They form the principal population of this terrestrial paradise; + they are for the most part emigrations from the Sahara, several + centuries ago, and speak the true Arabic language. These are a fine + race of men, possessing, in a superlative degree, some of the + noblest qualities of the human race. To these may be added + + _The Jews_, who wear a distinguishing costume, and a black cap; + they are all engaged in trade, and form one-seventh of the + population of the walled habitations. They are held in great + contempt, and are treated very rudely by the Arabs, and therefore + are seldom met with among the encampments of that people. + + A _douar_ is a village of tents; these tents are made of goats' and + camels' hair; they are made by the females, are of a close texture, +329 extremely warm, and impervious to the rain: thus they are cool in + the summer, and warm in the rainy season. In countries exposed to + the attacks of neighbouring kabyles, they are arranged in a + circular form, covering sometimes several acres of ground, having a + large keyma or Arab tent in the centre of the circle, which serves + for a _jamma_, or meeting for morning and evening prayers, and at + other times for an _emdursa_, or seminary, where the Muhamedan + youth are taught to read the Koran, and to write, as they call it, + (_Sultan men Elsen_) the sultan of languages, or language of + languages. The tent-pegs of the respective tents are indented + within each other, so that the cattle cannot go out or in; + moreover, a hedge of thorny bushes encircles the whole, secured by + staves drove into the ground. The camels, horses, mules, horned + cattle, sheep, and goats, are all inclosed in a division of the + circular area during the night, and a fire is kept all night, to + keep off the lions and wild beasts. The incessant barking of dogs, + which are very numerous among the Arabs, prevent the travellers + unaccustomed to these habitations from sleeping. + + _Various Modes of Intoxication_. + + All nations have some method of getting rid of reason, for the + purpose of indulging in the vacuum and temporary independence + produced by intoxication. We, of Europe, have recourse to wine to + effect this purpose: the opulent indulge in the libations of +330 claret, burgundy, and champagne; the middling classes have recourse + to brandy, rum, and gin; but the African effects this purpose at + far less expense. A muselman procures ample temporary relief from + worldly care for a mere trifle: he buys at the (_attara_), drug + shop, for a penny, a small pipe of _el keef or hashisha_; this + completely effects his purpose. The leaves of this drug, which is a + kind of hemp, are called _el hashisha_; the flower of the plant is + called _el keef_, and is much more powerful in its inebriating + quality than the _hashisha_, but a pipe of the latter will have as + powerful an effect as two or three bottles of wine. It is said, + that when the patient is under the influence of pleasant + imaginations, the fume of this drug increases the sensation into + the most pleasing delirium, engendering the most luxuriant images, + and promoting a voluptuous vacuum. But when the person's ill fate + tempts him to taste it in a melancholy mood, it protracts the + gloomy moments, and gives the woes of life a longer duration: he + utters sighs and lamentations, he apprehends nothing but misery and + misfortune, till the effect of the drug is exhausted, and he awakes + from his dream of woe. + + _Division of Agricultural Property_. + + Agricultural property is ascertained by a large stone laid at each + corner of a plantation of corn, a direct line is drawn from stone +321 to stone at the season of reaping; it has, perhaps, never been + known, that these partitions have been removed for the purpose of + encroachment; a mutual confidence, and a point of honour renders + this mode of discriminating the respective property of individuals + adequate to every purpose of hedge or ditch. + + _Mines_. + + The mountains that separate the province of Suse from that of + Draha, abound in iron, copper, and lead. Ketiwa, a district on the + declivity of Atlas, east of Terodant, contains also mines of lead + and brimstone; and saltpetre also, of a superior quality, abounds + in the neighbourhood of Terodant. In the same mountains, about + fifty or sixty miles south-west of Terodant, there are mines of + iron of a very malleable quality, equal to that of Biscay in Spain, + from which the people of Tagrasert manufacture gun-barrels, equal + to those made in Europe. At Elala in Suse, in the same ridge of + mountains, are several rich mines of copper, some of which are + impregnated with gold: they have also a rich silver mine, the metal + of which latter is cast in round lumps, weighing two or three + ounces each piece. I have bought of this silver at Santa Cruz, and + have paid Spanish dollars for it, weight for weight; it is very + pure. Mines of antimony and lead ore are also found in Suse, +332 impregnated with gold, some specimens of which I sent to England to + be analyzed; but being informed that it yielded gold sufficient + only to pay the expenses of purifying, I gave no farther attention + to it, although I have had reason to think, since then, that an + importation of the ore would amply pay the importer. + + _Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, called by the Arabs + Butelleese; and its Remedy_. + + During my residence at Santa Cruz, I had a cousin with me who was + afflicted with this disorder. When the sun sat his blindness came + on, and continued till the rising sun. This youth was so afflicted, + during a month, with this disorder, that he could scarcely see his + way with a candle in his hand, so that it was quite painful to see + him groping about. An Arab of the Woled Abbusebah Kabyl, who retain + much of the science and art of their ancestors, and whose + prosperity I had promoted at Santa Cruz, by facilitating his + commercial adventures, communicated to me a simple remedy for this + disorder; I put no faith in it, for it was so simple that I was + disposed to think it an illusion. He called on me, however, + repeatedly, and finding I had not applied it, he brought it one + morning himself, and urged me to try it, I did so; and that same + evening the eyes of the youth were almost well, and his sight was +333 completely restored the following night. This ophthalmic affection, + in an Arabic translation of Hippocrates, is called _Butelleese;_ + another translation of ancient date calls it _Shebkeret:_ the name, + however, by which it is known at the present day in Africa, is + _Butelleese:_ the Latins called it _Lusciosus_, which word denotes + precisely the disease, viz. one who sees imperfectly in the morning + and evening twilight, but whose vision is clear at broad day-light. + _Lusciosus ad lucernam non videt. Vesperi non videre quos lusciosos + appellant_. Plaut. Mil. Gl. ii. 3. + + This ophthalmia has been by some denominated _hen-blindness_, from + the circumstance of hens' eyes being thus affected, when they are + unable to see to pick up small grains in the dusk of the evening. I + have frequently seen fowls thus affected soon after going to sea, + from the coast of Africa, after which they decline and grow sick. A + quantity of small gravel should be spread in their coops at sea, + which prevents this disorder, and will sometimes cure it. At the + commencement of this complaint, the circumstance that first engages + the patient's attention is the dimness of his eye-sight at + twilight: the nocturnal dimness of vision was such, in the instance + before-mentioned, that the youth could scarcely see, even with a + candle in his hand, which he described, as seen by him, as if it + were misty, or as glimmering in a thick fog. There was no external + disfiguration visible in the eyes, but they appeared as usual. +334 + What the cause of this disorder was I am unable to say; but I have + often suspected that it was contracted from the shining of the sun + on the white terras of the house where my cousin used to go of a + morning to shoot _tibeebs_, a bird somewhat resembling the European + sparrow. This youth was rather of a weak or delicate constitution. + I did not repeat the above remedy, as the boy's eyes continued + well, without any defect in the vision at any time of the day or + night, till seven-and-twenty days had elapsed, when the disorder + returned. I procured the remedy again, and he took it; it had the + same effect as before; he took it again, and then continued well + for a month. It again returned a third time, and was cured by one + single administration, after which it entirely disappeared, and + never returned. Some time after this, I was informed that the + British fleet in the Mediterranean was affected with this disorder; + that one-tenth, or more, of the crews of our ships had laboured + under it; and, on my return to England, I was urged to represent to + His Majesty's ministers, that I had an infallible remedy for the + disorder. I was referred to Doctor Harness, of the Transport Board. + I waited on the Doctor, and afterwards corresponded with him. He + appeared very desirous of knowing the remedy; but he was not at + liberty to grant me any remuneration for it. I, however, offered to + discover it, on being reimbursed the sum which the remedy cost me, +335 on experimental proof being produced of its infallibility; which + proposition was rejected by the Transport Board in August, 1812, + who informed me at the same time, that the Lords Commissioners of + the Admiralty did not judge proper to grant the sum required by me + for the discovery of the remedy for Nyctalopia, which, I should + add, was between 500_l_. and 600_l_. The remedy, therefore, remains + a secret to this day. + + A celebrated electrician and galvanist having conversed with me + lately respecting this remedy for Nyctalopia, suggested to me the + probability, that the same remedy might be effectual also in _gutta + serena_, as both those disorders are known to proceed from a defect + in the optic nerve. This opinion he corroborated, by quoting, in + confirmation of it, the opinion of a well-known author. The + electrician perceiving my incredulity, or more properly, my + ignorance of the wonderful connection that exists between the + intestines and the head, was prompted, as I verily believe, by a + philanthropic disposition; and actually proved to me, + experimentally, the influence which the eyes have on the + intestines, and _vice versa_. A patient with a _gutta serena_, who + had been, as he informed me, twelve months under the hands of a + celebrated oculist, was recommended by the latter, as a last + resource, to try galvanism. He had received no benefit whatever + whilst under the direction of the oculist above alluded to, but his + intestines were intolerably deranged by the effects of the mercury +336 which he had taken. This gentleman galvanised his eyes, and the + man, who is a gunsmith, told me, that when he first went to have + the operation performed, he could not see the red border round the + hearth-rug in the front parlour, but when he returned into that + room, after having been galvanised, he assured me he saw it + plainly. He moreover declared that his bowels had been, and then + were, in a very deranged state, from the effects of the mercury + which he had taken, but that he felt incredible relief after having + been galvanised, and that, two or three days afterwards, they were + quite restored to health and strength. Being thus satisfied with + the influence that so wonderfully exists between the intestines and + the eyes, I am now making arrangements with the same gentleman, to + administer the remedy for the benefit, _as we hope_, of patients + afflicted with _gutta serena_. But I now declare to the public a + third time, that the remedy is simple, safe, and effectual, and + that I am ready and desirous of administering it to any one who may + choose to apply for it, who is afflicted with the disorder, with my + positive assurances, that it will effect a cure in eight-and-forty + hours at the utmost, but probably in twenty-four. + + _Vaccination._ + + Intelligence received from West Barbary was instrumental in +337 promoting the adoption of vaccination. In the latter years of the + last century, the small-pox pervaded West and South Barbary. Mr. + Matra, the British consul-general to the Empire of Marocco, wrote + to me at that period officially, to procure him every information + possible, and to inform him if I could discover if cattle in this + country were subject to the small-pox. I made every inquiry without + delay, and I reported to His Excellency, (who was ambassador as + well as consul), that I had ascertained that the horses, mules, + asses, and oxen were subject in this country to the small-pox, of + which there could be no doubt, as the name given to the disorder in + the beasts of the field, was the same as that which designated the + small-pox in the human species, viz. JEDRIE. In consequence of this + information, confirmed afterwards by other enquiries, His + Excellency wrote to England on the subject, and, I believe, sent + some vaccine pus home; soon after which Dr. Jenner began his + experiments on vaccine inoculation, which have since been adopted + throughout Europe, and in great part of Asia and America. Although + I was thus instrumental in the propagation of vaccine inoculation, + yet I never asked for or received any remuneration; but I feel a + satisfaction in having been thus instrumental of good to mankind, + in this new and eligible system of inoculation, by means of which + human life has been preserved; for, according to Sir Gilbert +338 Blane's late statement, 23,134 lives have been saved during the + last 15 years by vaccination. + + _Game_. + + All kinds of game are plentiful in South and in West Barbary; viz. + _el gror_, a bird somewhat similar to the English partridge, but + unknown in Europe. I shot some of these birds for Doctor Brussonet, + the naturalist, who was intendant of the national garden of botany + at Montpelier, which that gentleman prepared in the oven, and sent + to the National Institute at Paris. He informed me this bird was a + non-descript. Hares, antelopes, woodcocks, snipes, plovers, + bustards. There is an abundance of partridges, red ducks as large + as geese, ducks, wigeon, and teal; curlews, in immense quantities, + are found in the flat parts of the country on the coast; immense + quantities of doves, wild pigeons, wood-pigeons, and large + sand-larks. Every person is at liberty to shoot; but the princes + and the great, consider field-sports beneath their dignity, except + hawking, and hunting the wild boar, the lion, and the tiger. The + Muhamedans do not prefer game to other food. When they have shot a + bird, they immediately cut its throat, that the blood may flow + freely; otherwise it is not lawful to eat it. Game is never seen in + the public markets. When they shoot for Europeans, they dispense + with the ceremony of cutting the throat of the game. They reproach + the Christians for eating such food, which they call (_m'jeefa_) + "strangled." +339 + _Agriculture.--Mitferes._ + + The agriculturists, in all the Arab provinces throughout this + empire, have subterraneous caverns or apartments, generally in the + form of a cone, for the preservation of their corn during a + scarcity or famine. During my residence in this country, I have + investigated the method, and have learned the art of constructing + these depositories of grain. They season them before the corn is + deposited. They should not be constructed in a clay soil. In these + _mitferes_, throughout the Arab provinces of Duquella, Temsena, + Shawiya, &c. they preserve the corn sound during thirty years. I + have been present at the opening of them after the corn had been + deposited twenty-one years. It was perfectly sound. When these + depositories are opened, each family takes a portion of the grain, + so as to distribute the whole immediately; otherwise, in a few + months, if not consumed, it acquires a peculiar bad flavour, which + is called the _mitfere_ _twang_. To prevent this, an Arab, on + opening one of these depositaries, lends corn to all his + neighbours, and in his turn he receives it back again, when they + respectively open theirs. It is unnecessary to expatiate on the + expediency of constructing _mitferes_ in a country oftentimes + visited by locusts, the plague, drought, or inundation. There would + be a manifest policy in establishing similar granaries in our +340 colony in South Africa, where I understand they are visited by + locusts, and where the soil is similar to that of West and South + Barbary. All the valuable gums that Barbary now supplies Europe + with, and also many articles of commerce not yet known at the Cape, + might be procured from Barbary, and if transplanted to that colony, + would undoubtedly thrive, from the similarity of climate and soil. + + _Laws of Hospitality_. + + The territory of the Emperor of Marocco, west of the mountains of + Atlas, and from the shores of the Mediterranean to the confines of + the Shelluh province of Haha, is one continual corn-field, + inhabited by Arabs living in douars or encampments: much of the + ground, however, lies fallow. These encampments are fixed generally + at a considerable distance from the track of travellers, so that a + person unacquainted with this circumstance, would be disposed to + imagine the country thinly inhabited. The tents in safe countries, + where there is no fear of wild beasts, are pitched in a straight + line; but where lions or other ferocious animals are found, the + tents are disposed in a circular form; and thorny bushes are placed + round the douar, to prevent the visits of these unwelcome guests. + The Arabs are the agriculturists of the country, and are for the + most part emigrations from the original stock in Sahara. These + people have preserved from time immemorial the practice of open and +341 unrestrained hospitality. Their prophet confirmed these + propensities; and hospitality has been ever since, the predominant + virtue of the Arab. Accordingly, Muhamedans are entitled, through + their various journeys, to be entertained three days wherever they + sojourn. A traveller, therefore, when he chooses to rest from the + fatigue of his journey, goes to one of these douars and exclaims + (_Deef Allah_) "the guests of God." The sheik then comes forth from + his tent to receive him or them: (_Kheyma Deâf_) the travellers' or + guests' tent is appropriated to the stranger; food is brought to + him, agreeably to his rank in life, but always simple, good, and + wholesome. Here he may remain, if he chooses, for three days, + without being considered an intruder, and free of all expense + whatsoever. If he wishes to exceed the three days allowed by the + Muhamedan law, he must prove his poverty; which being done, he may + be entertained for a further period of time: but this latter is + quite optional; no man is compelled to entertain and provide food + for strangers and travellers, without remuneration, above three + days. + + This hospitality extends not generally to all mankind, but to + Muhamedans only. A Christian or a Jew would be expected to pay a + trifle for his entertainment; although, in travelling through the + province of Suse, the Arabs have absolutely refused to take any + remuneration from me; but, that is not generally the case, nor +342 ought such conduct to be expected: in the instances + before-mentioned, these people considered themselves so much + benefited by the opening of the port of Santa Cruz, that they + thought they could not do enough for me. I was, therefore, every + where received in that province with the most cordial marks of + disinterested hospitality. + + The laws of hospitality are sacred and inviolable. This I will + elucidate, by relating a circumstance that happened while I was at + Marocco. The Emperor was dissatisfied with the conduct of four + sheiks of Suse: they had not discharged the duties of their public + vocation, but had abused their office; the Emperor had issued + orders to arrest them, but by some means they got intelligence of + the orders; they therefore immediately ordered their horses, and + decamped in the evening from Marocco: they knew they should not be + safe any where from the Emperor's grasp, but under the protection + of the Khalif Muhamed ben Delemy, whom, however, they had in some + manner injured; nevertheless, knowing the noble character of the + man, they were resolved to try their fate; accordingly, they made + haste to reach the gates of his castle in Shtuka, before the + Emperor might discover their departure. They arrived, and + exclaiming _Deef Allah_, they were admitted. Delemy told them, that + although they had not behaved friendly to him, he would protect + them. His gates, he said, were always open to the children of +343 adversity, and they might depend on his protection. The Emperor + soon discovered, by diligent enquiry, what route they had taken, + and His Imperial Majesty urged Delemy to deliver them up; but the + latter expostulated, and observing that he should not deserve the + name of an Arabian sheik, if he degraded himself by giving up those + who had claimed his protection, in his own country: and he actually + granted them protection several months; till, at length, finding + they could not escape the hand of power, by any plan but that of + going into the Sahara, Delemy agreed to see them safe out of the + Emperor's dominions, and accompanied them to Akka, and beyond that + place, till they reached the Sahara, where, being perfectly safe, + he took his leave of them, and they exchanged _Salems_. + + _Punishment for Murder._ + + If a man commits murder, the friends of the murdered claim redress + of the alkaid, if in a town,--of the bashaw of the province, if in + the country. If the murderer is discovered, he is taken into + custody, to suffer death, unless the relations of the murdered man + choose to compromise with the relations of the murderer: in which + case, a sum of money is paid to the former, and the matter is thus + settled. + + _Insolvency Laws._ + + An insolvent cannot be detained in prison after his insolvency is + ascertained. He gives up his property to his creditors; but if he +344 should afterwards become a man of substance, his creditors can + claim the amount of their debts, deducting what they have already + received. + + _Dances_. + + The dances of the Arabs are peculiar to themselves. The youths + dance without females, and the females without youths. On all + marriages and rejoicings, music and dancing continue till the dawn + of day. Among the encampments of Arabs, in the summer season, the + whole country, at night, is in a blaze of light. The kettle-drum, + the triangle, the shepherd's pipe, and the _erbeb_ an instrument + resembling the fiddle, with two strings, form the band of music. + + The youths form a double row of six or eight in each, and carry + themselves erect, with their arms hanging down close to their side; + moving obliquely to the right, then to the left, without taking + their feet from the ground, but moving their heels, then their toes + on the ground, advancing or gliding slowly along; keeping exact + time with the music: they then vault in the air, perform somersets + and various feats of agility. They sing also with great taste and + judgment, and some of them have excellent voices, being selected + for the purpose of affording entertainment to the spectators. The + ladies dance also in a similar manner, but without the vaulting and + somersets. They have a very elegant shawl-dance, which some of them + dance with great taste, and with much graceful movement. +345 + _Circumcision._ + + The circumcision of male children is the general practice of + Islaemism; it is also used among some of the[201] _Khaffers_ or + _Cafers_ of North, Central, and South Africa. Circumcision is not a + practice ascribed to a principle of cleanliness, or any other + cause, but ancient usage. The period of performing this operation + among the Arabs is at the age of eight years. + + [Footnote 201: _Khaffer_ (singular number) is an Arabic term, + applied to all who are not Muhamedans; all Pagans, Jews, and + Christians, are called _Khaffer_, _K'fer_ (plural) _Kaffir + billa_, an atheist: hence Caffraria, the name of the country + near the Cape of Good Hope.] + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz._ + + Transport of ([202]_Alk Sudan_) gum of Sudan, bought at Timbuctoo, + on account of Messrs. James Jackson and Co. by their agent, L'Hage + Muhamed O----n, and dispatched to Akka by the spring (_akkaba_) + accumulated caravan, in February, 1794. + + M. Doll + + 200 camel loads of gum-sudan, each + weighing 250 lb. net, bought at + Timbuctoo, at four Mexico dollars + per load, 800 +346 + _Charges._--Cow-skins to pack it in, sticks + to stow it on the camels, &c. 25 + + 200 camels hired to Akka, at 18 Mexico + dollars each, 3600 + + Stata, _i.e._ convoy through the Sahara, + from Timbuctoo to Arawan, at 20 + cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from Arawan to East Tagrassa, at + 20 cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from East Tagrassa to Akka, at + 40 cents per camel, 40 + + 20 per cent., or one-fifth, on the first + cost, to be allowed to the purchaser + on safe arrival at Akka, 160 + ---- + 4705 + + [Footnote 202: This gum is the produce of an enormous tree of + Sudan, which flourishes near Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and + Bernoh (or Bernou) it is transported by the caravans to + Alexandria in Egypt, to Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers. From the + African ports in the Mediterranean it is shipped to Smyrna and + Constantinople, and from thence to England, under the + denomination of Turkey gum; some goes to Mogodor and Tetuan, + and thence to London.] + +347 + The adventure is subject to this charge, provided it arrive safe at + Akka, not otherwise, as also to encourage the agent at Timbuctoo, + to exert himself in procuring trusty guides and competent statas, + which he would not do, without having a certain interest in the + safe delivery. + + _N.B._ No stata is necessary from Akka to Santa Cruz, but the hire + is 3 dollars per camel. + + _Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, which accompanied the + foregoing Consignment._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is nothing durable but the + kingdom of heaven. + + To the Christian merchant, Jackson, at Agadeer. Peace be to those + who follow the right way. + + This being premised, know that I have sent you by this akkabah, two + hundred camel load of gum-sudan, agreeable to the account herewith + transmitted. The stata will be paid by my friend, L'Hage Aly, sheik + of Akka, whom I request you will reimburse according to the account + which I have sent to you by him; and if he goes to Agadeer, be + kind, friendly, and hospitable to him on my account, for he stands + high in my esteem; and peace be with you. + + Written at Timbuctoo, 10th of the month Muharram, year of the Hejra + 1208, (corresponding with 15th Feb. A.C. 1794). By your friend, + + L'HAGE MUHAMED O----N. + God be merciful to him. + + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Fas_. + + Transport of gold, gum, and cottons, from Timbuctoo to Fas, + consigned to L'Hage Seyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely, Timbuctoo + merchants at Fas, by (_akkaba el Kheriffy_) the autumnal caravan. + Dispatched 29th Duelhaja el Hurem, year 1204, corresponding with + 10th October, A.C. 1790. + + 500 skins (_Tibber Wangâree_) gold dust of Wangara, each skin + containing 4 ounces, bought on their account, in barter for 800 + Flemish plattilias. + + 100 (_Sibikat deheb Wangaree_). Wangara gold in bars, weighing 20 + ounces each, bought in exchange for 400 pieces (_Shkalat_) Irish + cloth, averaging 44 cubits each piece (7 cubits are equal to 4 + English yards). +348 + 10 bed-covers, 9 cubits long, 4 wide, chequered pattern, blue and + white cotton, with scarlet silk between the chequers, manufactured + at Timbuctoo, bought in barter for 100 lb. sugar, 30 loaves. + + 50 camel-load gum-sudan, weighing net 120 quintals. + + _Charges_.--Hire of 50 camels to Akka, at 18 dollars each. + + Stata to ditto, 1 dollar per load, to be paid by Sheik Aly ben + A----r. + + _Copy of the Letter accompanying the foregoing Remittance._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength, without God, the eternal God. + + To my friends, L'Hage Zeyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely. Peace + be with ye, and the mercy of the High God; and after that, know, + that I have sent to our agents at Akka, by the autumnal caravan, 50 + camel loads of gum-sudan, being 100 skins; in each skin of gum I + have packed 5 skins of gold dust, and 1 bar of gold. L'Hage Tahar + ben Jelule will deliver to our agent at Akka, for you, 10 very + handsome cotton covers for beds, of Sudan manufacture. May all this + arrive safe, with the blessing of God. I will inform you by the + spring caravan what merchandize to send here next autumn. I refer + you to a long letter, which I have sent to you by L'Hage Tahar. + Peace be with you, and the blessing of God be upon you. +349 + Written at Timbuctoo, the 29th Duelhaja El Huram, year 1204. + + L'HAGE HAMED ELWANGARIE. + [203]God protect him. + + [Footnote 203: The Muhamedans, in signing their name, always + invoke the protection, mercy, or providence of God upon + themselves.] + + _Food of the Desert._ + + The people, whose interest induces them to cross the desert, (for + there are no travellers from curiosity in this country,) obviate + the objection to salt provisions, which increases the propensity to + drink water, by taking with them melted butter, called _smin_; this + is prepared without salt. They also cut beef into long pieces, + about six inches long, and one inch square, without fat; these are + called _el kuddeed_, which are hung on a line, exposed to the air + till dry; they then cut them into pieces, two inches long; these + are put into (_buckul_) an earthen pot; they then pour the _smin_ + into the _buckul_ till it is covered. This meat and butter, besides + being palatable, is comprised in a small compass, and feeds many. + When this butter has been thus prepared and kept twelve or fifteen + years, it is called _budrâ_, and is supposed to contain penetrating + active medicinal qualities. I have seen some thirty years old. + + _Antithesis, a favourite Figure with the Arabs._ + + Mahmoud, sultan of Ghezna in the beginning of the eleventh century, +350 though the son of a slave, was very powerful. He sent to the khalif + Alkader, requesting a title suited to his exalted dignity. The + latter hesitated; but fearing the power of the sultan, sent him at + the expiration of a year the ambiguous title, _Uly_, i.e. a prince, + a friend, a slave. Mahmoud penetrated the khalif's meaning, and + sent him immediately 100,000 pieces of gold, with a wish to know + whether a letter had not been omitted. Alkader received the + treasure, and took the hint, instantly dispatching letters patent + in full form, creating him _Uäly_ which signifies, without + equivocation, a sovereign independent prince. + + _Arabian Modes of Writing_. + + The Arabs have various modes of writing, the principal of which is + that used by the Koreish, the most learned of all the Western + tribes, and is denominated the _Niskhi_, or upright character: if + this is understood, the others may be easily comprehended. This is + the character in which the Koran was originally written. In the + seventh century, the Arabs adopted the invention of Moramer ben + Morra, a native of Babylonian Irak, which was afterwards improved + by the Kufik. The Kufik and the Niskhi are synonymous. Richardson, + in his Arabic Grammar, p. 4. say, "The Mauritannick character, + which is used by the Moors of Marocco and Barbary, descendants of +351 the Arabians, differs in many respects _considerably_ from the + other modes of writing." But this is incorrect; for the + Mauritannick alphabet, excepting in the order of the letters, is + precisely the same with the Oriental, as now written and spoken, + with the exception only of the letters _Fa_ and _Kaf_, and the + formation even of these characters are alike. The punctuation only, + differs in the West, that is, west of the Egyptian Nile. The + Western punctuation of _Fa_, is one point below the letter, and the + punctuation of the letter _Kaf_ is one point above. In the East, + the former letter has one point above, the latter has two. This is + the only difference between the Eastern and the Western alphabets. + Richardson, (see his Grammar, page 5,) also says, that "the purest + Arabic is spoken at Grand Cairo," but this is not correct: the + language of Grand Cairo and of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and Marocco + are much alike, but none of them are the pure Koraisch or Korannick + Arabic, which is only spoken at Mekka, and among some of the tribes + of Bedouins in the West. The language of the Woled Abbusebah, of + the Howara, and of the Mograffra is the pure Arabic. Finally, in a + note in Richardson's Grammar, page 18, it is said, "Some of our + European writers, and amongst others Voltaire, substitute _Koran_ + for _Alcoran_, but perhaps improperly, as D'Herbelot and other + learned Orientalists, write uniformly _l'Alcoran, il Alcorano_, the + Alcoran." We have been too apt to copy the orthography of Oriental + names from the French, whose pronunciation of the Roman or European +352 characters differs from ours. There cannot be a doubt that + D'Herbelot is incorrect. The word _Koran_ (for there is no _c_ in + the Arabic language) is derived from the verb _Kora_, to read; + _koran_, reading: _Al_ is the article; but, in this instance, + D'Herbelot uses this article twice, which is certainly erroneous, + for _l'_ is the French article in the word in question, and _al_ is + the Arabic article; whereas _one_ article only should precede a + noun. _L'Alcoran_ and the _Alcoran_ are therefore equally + incorrect; for the word in French should be _Le Coran_; in English, + _the Koran_; therefore Voltaire was correct. I have thought it + expedient to make these observations, because standing in + Richardson's Grammar on the authority of _learned orientalists_, + they are calculated to mislead the Arabic student. + + _Decay of Science and the Arts among the Arabs_. + + The literary fire of the Arabs and Persians has been extinguished + upwards of 300 years; but before that period, the encouragement to + learning in the East was unprecedented, and has never been equalled + by any European nation either before or since that period. Kadder + Khan, king of Turquestan, was the greatest support to science. When + he appeared abroad, he was preceded by 700 horsemen, with silver + battle-axes, and was followed by an equal number bearing maces of + gold. He supported with magnificent appointment a literary academy +353 in his palace, consisting of 100 men of the highest reputation. + Amak, called Abu Näib El Bokari, who was the chief poet, exclusive + of a great pension and a vast number of slaves, had, in attendance + wherever he went, thirty horses of state richly caparisoned, and a + retinue in proportion. The king before-mentioned used to preside at + their exercises of genius, on which occasions, by the side of his + throne were always placed four large basons filled with gold and + silver, which he distributed liberally to those who excelled. + + Lebid suspended over the gate at Mecca a sublime poem; Muhamed + placed near it the opening of the second chapter of the Koran, + which was conceived to be something divine, and it gained the prize + of the _Ocadh_ assembly. + + The remains of this custom of suspending over gates Arabic poems, + is perceived at this day among the western Moors. The gates or + entrances to Mogodor, Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, &c. have writing over + them, which is a kind of Arabic short-hand, that none but the + learned understand; these writings, however, are not moveable, + being engraven on a square table on the stone itself. + + _Extraordinary Abstinence experienced in the Sahara_. + + The Arabs or inhabitants of the Sahara, can support the most + extraordinary abstinence. Occasions occur, wherein they will travel +354 several days without food. After suffering a privation of a day or + two, they tie their (_hazam_) belt round their loins, every morning + tighter than the preceding day, thereby preventing, in some + measure, that action of the bowels which promotes appetite. A + Saharawan will thus go five or six days without food of any kind, + in which case, when he reaches a habitation, or a (_wah_) + cultivated spot in the Desert, he will drink about half-a-pint of + camel's milk; this remains on the stomach but a short time: he then + takes another draught, which, with some, remains and gives + nourishment, but with others _it_ is also rejected by the stomach; + _a third draught is then taken, which restores the exhausted + traveller!_ I have been assured, that instances have been known in + Sahara, wherein a man has been without food of any kind for seven + days, and has afterwards been restored by the foregoing regimen! + +355 + + LANGUAGES OF AFRICA. + + _Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the + Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the + Mandinga.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the + Canary Islands, and Similitude of Customs_. + + + + + Yareb, the son of Kohtan[204], is said to have been the first who + spoke Arabic, and the Muhamedans contend that it is the most + eloquent language spoken in any part of the globe, and that it is + the one which will be used at the day of judgment. To write a long + dissertation on this copious and energetic language, would be only + to repeat what many learned men have said before; a few + observations, however, may not be superfluous to the generality of + readers. The Arabic language is spoken by a greater proportion of + the inhabitants of the known world than any other: a person having + a practical knowledge of it, may travel from the shores of the + Mediterranean Sea to the Cape of Good Hope, and notwithstanding + that in such a journey he must pass through many kingdoms and + empires of blacks, speaking distinct languages, yet he would find +356 men in all those countries versed in Muhamedan learning, and + therefore acquainted with the Arabic; again, he might cross the + widest part of the African continent from west to east, and would + every where meet with persons acquainted with it, more particularly + if he should follow the course of the great river called the Neel + El Abeed, on the banks of which, from Jinnie and Timbuctoo, to the + confines of lower Egypt, are innumerable cities and towns of Arabs + and Moors, all speaking the Arabic. Again, were a traveller to + proceed from Marocco to the farthest shore of Asia, opposite the + islands of Japan, he would find the Arabic generally spoken or + understood wherever he came. In Turkey, in Syria, in Arabia, in + Persia, and in India, it is understood by all men of education; and + any one possessing a knowledge of the Korannick Arabic, might, in a + very short time, make himself master of all its various dialects. + + [Footnote 204: This Kohtan is the Joktan, son of Eber, brother + to Phaleg, mentioned in Genesis. Chapter x, verse 25.] + + The letters of this language[205] are formed in four distinct ways, + according to their situation at the beginning, middle, or end of + words, as well as when standing alone; the greatest difficulty, + however, to be overcome, is the acquiring a just pronunciation, + (without which no living language can be essentially useful;) and + to attain which, the learner should be able to express the + difference of power and sound between what may be denominated the +357 synonymous letters, such as ط and ث with ت and ع with ا and ص with + س and ض and ظ with د and ة with ح and ق with ى and خ and غ with ر. + + [Footnote 205: The Oriental punctuation is here adopted.] + + Besides these, there are other letters, whose power is extremely + difficult to be acquired by an European, because no language in + Europe possesses sounds similar to the Arabic letters خ غ ع, nor + has any language, except, perhaps, the English, a letter with the + power of the Arabian ث. Those who travel into Asia or Africa + scarcely ever become sufficiently masters of the Arabic to speak it + fluently, which radical defect proceeds altogether from their not + learning, while studying it, the peculiar distinction of the + synonymous letters. _No European, perhaps, ever knew more of the + theory of this language than the late Sir William Jones, but still + he could not converse with an Arabian;_ a circumstance of which he + was not conscious until he went to India. This great man, however, + had he been told that his knowledge of this popular eastern + language was so far deficient, that he was ignorant of the separate + powers of its synonymous letters, and consequently inadequate to + converse intelligibly with a native Arab, he would certainly have + considered it an aspersion, and have disputed altogether that such + was the fact. Considering how much we are indebted to the Arabians +358 for the preservation of many of the works of the ancients, which + would otherwise have never, perhaps, been known to us, it is really + surprising, that their language should be so little known in + Europe. It is certainly very difficult and abstruse, (to learners + particularly,) but this difficulty is rendered insurmountable by + the European professors knowing it only as a dead language, and + _teaching it without due attention to the pronunciation of the + before mentioned synonymous letters, a defect which is not likely + to be remedied, and which will always subject the speaker to + incessant errors_. + + To shew the Arabic student the difference between the Oriental and + Occidental order of the letters of the alphabet, I shall here give + them opposite each other. + + Oriental. Occidental + + 1 Alif 1 -- ا Alif ا + + 2 ba. ب -- 2 ba ب + + 3 ta ت -- 3 ta. ت + + 4 thsa ث -- 4 tha ث + + 5 jim ج -- 5 jim ج + + 6 hha ح -- 6 hha ح + + 7 kha خ -- 7 kha خ + + 8 dal د -- 8 dal د + + 9 dsal ذ -- 9 dth'al ذ + + 10 ra ر -- 10 ra ر + + 11 za ز -- 11 zain ز +359 + 12 sin س -- 12 ta ط + + 13 shin ش -- 13 da ظ + + 14 sad ص -- 14 kef ێ + + 15 dad ض -- 15 lam ل + + 16 ta ط -- 16 mim م + + 17 da ظ -- 17 nune ن + + 18 ain ع -- 18 sad ص + + 19 gain غ -- 19 dad ض + + 20 fa ف -- 20 ain ع + + 21 kaf ق -- 21 g'rain غ + + 22 kef ك -- 22 fa ڢ + + 23 lem ل -- 23 kaf ف + + 24 mim م -- 24 sin س + + 25 nun ن -- 25 shin ش + + 26 waw و -- 26 hha ه + + 27 he ه -- 27 wow و + + 28 ya ي -- 28 ia ي + + 29 lam-alif: ligature lam + alif = لأ لإ لآ + + Besides this difference of the arrangement of the two alphabets, + the Arabic student will observe that there is also a difference in + the punctuation of two of the letters: thus-- + + Oriental. Occidental. + + fa ف fa ڢ + + kaf ق kaf ف + +360 + Among the Western Arabs, the ancient Arabic figures are used, viz. + 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9: they often write 100 thus, 1..--200, + 2.. + + To explain the force of the synonymous letters on paper would be + impossible; the reader, however, may form some idea of the + indispensable necessity of knowing the distinction by the few words + here selected, which to one unaccustomed to hear the Arabic + language spoken, would appear similar and undistinguishable. + + + ENGLISH. ARABIC, ARABIC. + + Rendered as near to European pronunciation + as the English Alphabet + will admit. + + A horse Aoud [Arabic:] + + Wood Awad [Arabic:] + + To repeat Aoud [Arabic:] + + Fish Hout [Arabic:] + + A gun Mokhalla [Arabic:] + + A foolish woman Mokeela [Arabic:] + + A frying pan Makeela [Arabic:] + + A lion Seban [Arabic:] + + Morning Seban [Arabic:] + + Seventh Seban [Arabic:] +361 + Hatred Hassed [Arabic:] + + Harvest Hassed [Arabic:] + + Learning (Alem, or El Alem) [Arabic:] + + A flag El Alem [Arabic:] + + Granulated paste Kuscasoe [Arabic:] + + The dish it is made in Kuscas [Arabic:] + + Heart Kul'b [Arabic:] + + Dog Kil'b [Arabic:] + + Mould Kal'b [Arabic:] + + Captain Rice [Arabic:] + + Feathers Rish [Arabic:] + + Mud G'ris [Arabic:] + + Smell Shim [Arabic:] + + Poison Sim[206] [Arabic:] +362 + Absent G'raib [Arabic:] + + Butter-milk Raib [Arabic:] + + White Bead [Arabic:] + + A black El Abd [Arabic:] + + Eggs Baid [Arabic:] + + Afar off Baid [Arabic:] + + A pig Helloof [Arabic:] + + An oath Hellef [Arabic:] + + Feed for horses Alf [Arabic:] + + A thousand Elf [Arabic:] + + [Footnote 206: The African Jews find it very difficult in + speaking, to distinguish between _shim_ and _sim_, for they + cannot pronounce the _sh_, ش but sound it like _s_ + س ; the very few who have studied the art of reading + the language, have, however, conquered this difficulty.] + + It is difficult for any one who has not accurately studied the + Arabic language, to imagine the many errors which an European + commits in speaking it, when self taught, or when taught in Europe. + This deficiency originates in the inaccuracy of the application of + the guttural and synonymous letters. + + The ain ع and the غ grain cannot be +363 accurately pronounced by Europeans, who have not studied the + language grammatically when young. The aspirated _h_, and the hard + _s_, in the word for _morning_ (sebah), are so much like their + synonymes, that few Europeans can discern the difference; the one + is consequently often mistaken for the other; and I have known a + beautiful sentence absolutely perverted through an inaccuracy of + this kind. In the words rendered _Hatred_ and _Harvest_, the two + synonymes of س and ص or _s_ hard and _s_ + soft, are indiscriminately used by Europeans in their Arabic + _conversations_, a circumstance sufficient to do away the force and + meaning of many a sentence. + + The poetry as well as prose of the Arabians is well known, and has + been so often discussed by learned men, that it would be irrelevant + here to expatiate on the subject; but as the following description + of the noblest passion of the human breast cannot but be + interesting to the generality of readers, and, without any + exception, to the fair sex, I will transcribe it. + + "Love [Arabic:] beginneth in contemplation, passeth to meditation; + hence proceeds desire; then the spark bursts forth into a flame, + the head swims, the body wastes, and the soul turns giddy. If we + look on the bright side of love, we must acknowledge that it has at + least one advantage; it annihilates pride and immoderate self-love; +364 true love, whose aim is the happiness and equality of the beloved + object, being incompatible with those feelings. + + "Lust is so different from true love [arabic], and so far from a + perfection, that it is always a species of punishment sent by God, + because man has abandoned the path of his pure love." + + In their epistolary writing, the Arabs have generally a regular and + particular style, beginning and ending all their letters with the + name of God, symbolically, because God is the beginning and end of + all things. The following short specimen will illustrate this: + + Translation of a letter written in the Korannick Arabic by Seedy + Soliman ben Muhammed ben Ismael, Sultan of Marocco, to his Bashaw + of Suse, &c. &c. + + "Praise be to the only God! for there is neither power, nor + strength, without the great and eternal God." + + L.S. + + Containing the Emperor's name and + titles, as Soliman ben Muhamed + ben Abdallah, &c, &c. + + "Our servant, Alkaid Abdelmelk ben Behie Mulud, God assist, and + peace be with thee, and the mercy and grace of God be upon thee!" + + "We command thee forthwith to procure and send to our exalted + presence every Englishman that has been wrecked on the coast of + Wedinoon, and to forward them hither without delay, and diligently +365 to succour and attend to them, and may the eye of God be upon + thee!" [207] + + [Footnote 207: When they write to any other but Muhamedans, + they never salute them with the words, "Peace be with thee," + but substitute--"Peace be to those who follow the path of the + true God," _Salem ala min itaba el Uda_.] + + "26th of the (lunar), month Saffer, year of the Hejra 1221. (May, + 1806.)" + + The accuracy of punctuation in the Arabic language is a matter that + ought to be strictly attended to. + + The foregoing observations will serve to prove the insufficiency of + a knowledge of this language, as professed or studied in Great + Britain when unaccompanied with a practical knowledge. These + observations may apply equally to the Persian language.[208] + + [Footnote 208: "One of the objects I had in view in coming to + Europe, was to instruct young Englishmen in the Persian + language. I however met with so little encouragement from + persons in authority, that I entirely relinquished the plan. I + instructed, however, (as I could not refuse the recommendations + that were brought to me,) an amiable young man, Mr. S------n, + and thanks be to God, my efforts were crowned with success! and + that he, having escaped the instructions of _self-taught_ + masters, has acquired such a knowledge of the principles of + that language, and so correct an idea of its idiom and + pronunciation, that I have no doubt, after a few years' + residence in India, he will attain to such a degree of + excellence, as has not yet been acquired by any other + Englishman." Vide Travels of Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, vol. i. p. + 200.] + + If the present ardour for discovery in Africa be persevered in, the + learned world may expect, in the course of a few years, to receive +366 histories and other works of Greek and Roman authors, which were + translated into the Arabic language, when Arabian literature was in + its zenith, and have ever since been confined to some private + libraries in the cities of the interior of Africa, and in Arabia. + + Having said thus much with regard to the Arabic of the western + Arabs, which, with little variation, is spoken throughout all the + finest districts of North Africa, I shall proceed to say a few + words respecting the other languages spoken north of Sahara: these + are the Berebber and its dialects, viz. the Zayan and Girwan, and + Ait Amor; the Shelluh of Suse and South Atlas, all which, though + latterly supposed by some learned men to be the same, differ in + many respects; any one possessing a knowledge of the Berebber + language might, with little difficulty, make himself understood by + the Zayan of Atlas, the Girwan, or the Ait Amor; but the Shelluh is + a different language, and each so different from the Arabic, that + there is not the smallest resemblance, as the following specimen + will demonstrate: + + BEREBBER. SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Tumtoot Tayelt Ishira A girl + Ajurode Ayel Ishire A boy + Askan Tarousa Hajar A thing + Aram Algrom Jimmel Camel + Tamtute Tamraut Murrah A woman + Ishiar Issemg'h L'Abd A slave + Aouli Izimer Kibsh A sheep + Taddert Tikimie Dar House +367 Ikshuden Asroen Lawad Wood + Eekeel Akfai Hellib Milk + Tifihie Uksume El Ham Meat + Buelkiel Amuran Helloof A hog + Abreede Agares Trek A road + Bishee Fikihie Ara Give me + Adude Asht Agi Come + Alkam Aftooh Cire Go + Kaym Gäuze Jils Sit down + Imile Imeek Serire Little + + _Specimen of the Difference between the Arabic and Shelluh + Languages._ + + SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Is sin Tamazirkt Wash katarf Do you understand + Shelluh Shelluh? + Uree sin Man arf huh I do not understand it. + Matshrult Kif enta How are you? + Is tekeete Wash gite min Are you come from + Marokshe Marockshe Marocco? + Egan ras Miliah Good + Maigan Ala'sh Wherefore? + Misimmink As'mek What is your name? + Mensh kat dirk Shall andik How much have you got? + Tasardunt Borella A mule + Romi Romi An European + Takannarit Nasarani A Christian +368 Romi Kaffer An infidel + Misem Bebans Ashkune mula Who is the owner? + Is'tkit Tegriwelt Washjite min Are you come from + Tegriwelt Cape Ossem? + Auweete Imkelli Jib Liftor Bring the dinner + Efoulkie Meziana Handsome + Ayeese El aoud A horse + Tikelline El Baid Eggs + Amuran Helloof Hog + Tayuh Tatta Camelion + Tasamumiat Adda Green lizard + Tenawine Sfune Ships. + + Marmol says, the Shelluhs and Berebbers write and speak one + language, called Killem Abimalick[209]; but the foregoing specimen, + the accuracy of which may be depended on, clearly proves this + assertion to be erroneous, as well as that of many moderns who have + formed their opinion, in all probability, on the above authority. + Now, although the Shelluh and Berebber languages are so totally + dissimilar, that there is not one word in the foregoing vocabulary + which resembles its corresponding word in the other language, yet, +369 from the prejudice which Marmol's authority has established, it + will still be difficult, perhaps, to persuade the learned that such + an author could be mistaken on such a subject. My account therefore + must remain for a future age to determine upon, when the languages + of Africa shall be better known than they are at present; for it is + not a few travellers occasionally sent out on a limited plan, that + can ascertain facts, the attainment of which requires a long + residence, and familiar intercourse with the natives. Marmol had + also misled the world, in saying that they write a different + language; the fact is, that when they write any thing of + consequence, it is in the Arabic; but any trifling subject is + written in the Berebber words, though in the Arabic character. If + they had any peculiar character in the time of Marmol, they have + none now; for I have conversed with hundreds of them, as well as + with the Shelluhs, and have had them staying at my house for a + considerable time together, but never could learn from any, that a + character different from the Arabic had ever been in use among + them. + + [Footnote 209: Killem Abimalick signifies the Language of + Abimalick; this is evidently an error of Marmol, the Shelluh + language is denominated _Amazirk_; the Berebber Language is + denominated _Killem Brebber_.] + + In addition to these languages, there is another spoken at the + Oasis of Ammon, or Siwah, called in Arabic [Arabic:] El Wah El + Grarbie, which appears to be a mixture of Berebber and Shelluh, as + will appear from the list of Siwahan words given by Mr. +370 Horneman[210], in his Journal, page 19, part of which I have here + transcribed, to show the similitude between those two languages, + whereby it will appear that the language of Siwah and that of the + Shelluhs of South Atlas, are one and the same language. + + ENGLISH. SIWAHAN. SHELLUH. + Sun Itfuckt Atfuct. + Head Achfé Akfie + Camel Lgum Arume + Sheep Jelibb Jelibb + Cow Tfunest Tafunest + Mountain Iddrarn Iddra[211] + Have you a horse? Goreck Ackmar Is derk Achmar?[212] + Milk Achi Akfie + Bread Tagor Tagora[213] + Dates Tena Tenia (sing.)Tena (plural.) + + South of the Desert we find other languages spoken by the blacks; + and are told by Arabs, who have frequently performed the journey + from Jinnie to Cairo, and the Red Sea, that thirty-three different +371 Negro languages are met with in the course of that route, but that + the Arabic is spoken by the intelligent part of the people, and the + Muhamedan religion is known and followed by many; their writings + are uniformly in Arabic. + + [Footnote 210: In reading Mr. William Marsden's observations on + the language of Siwah, at the end of Horneman's Journal, in + page 190, I perceive that the short vocabulary inserted + corresponds with a vocabulary of the Shelluh language, which I + presented to that gentleman some years past.] [Footnote 211: + Plural Iddrarn.] + + [Footnote 212: Or, Is derk ayeese?] + + [Footnote 213: This is applied to bread when baked in a pan, or + over the embers of charcoal, or other fire; but when baked in + an oven it is called Agarom (g guttural.)] + + It may not be improper in this place, seeing the many errors and + mutilated translations which appear from time to time, of Arabic, + Turkish and Persian papers, to give a list of the Muhamedan moons + or lunar months, used by all those nations, which begin with the + first appearance of the new moon, that is, the day following, or + sometimes two days after the change, and continue till they see the + next new moon; these have been mutilated to such a degree in all + our English translations, that I shall give them, in the original + Arabic character, and as they ought to be spelt and pronounced in + the English character, as a clue whereby to calculate the + correspondence between our year and theirs. They divide the year + into 12 months, which contain 29 or 30 days, according as they see + the new moon; the first day of the month Muharam is termed [arabic] + Ras Elame, i.e. the beginning of the year. + + As we are more used to the Asiatic mode of punctuation, that will + be observed in these words. + + Muharam [Arabic] + Asaffer [Arabic] +372 Arabia Elule [Arabic] + Arabea Atthenie [Arabic] + Jumad Elule [Arabic] + Jumad Athenie [Arabic] + Rajeb [Arabic] + Shaban [Arabic] + Ramadan [Arabic] + Shual [Arabic] + Du'elkada [Arabic] + Du Elhajah [Arabic] + + The first of Muharram, year of the Hejra 1221, answers to the 19th + March of the Christian æra, 1806. + + Among the various languages spoken south of the Sahara, we have + already observed that there are thirty-three different ones between + the Western Ocean and the Red Sea, following the shores of the Nile + El Abeed, or Niger: among all these nations and empires, a man + practically acquainted with the Arabic, may always make himself + understood, and indeed, it is the language most requisite to be + known for every traveller in these extensive regions. + + The Mandinga is spoken from the banks of the Senegal, where that + river takes a northerly course from the Jibel Kuthera to the +373 kingdom of Bambarra; the Wangareen tongue is a different one; and + the Housonians speak a language differing again from that. + + _Specimen of the difference between the Arabic and Mandinga + language; the words of the latter extracted from the vocabularies + of Seedi Muhamed ben Amer Sudani._ + + ENGLISH. MANDINGA. ARABIC. + + One Kalen Wahud + Two Fula Thanine + Three Seba Thalata + Four Nani Arba + Five Lulu Kumsa + Six Uruh Setta + Seven Urn'klu Sebba + Eight Säae Timinia + Nine Kanuntée Taseud + Ten Dan Ashra + Eleven Dan kalen Ahud ash + Twelve Dan fula Atenashe + Thirteen Dan seba Teltashe + Nineteen Dankanartée Tasatasli + Twenty Mulu Ashreen + Thirty Mulu nintau Thalateen + Forty Mulu fula Arbä'in + Fifty Mulu fula neentan Kumseen + Sixty Mulu sebaa Setteen + Seventy Mulu sebaa nintan Sebä'in. +374 Eighty Mulu nani T'aramana'een + Ninety Mulu nani neentaan Tasa'een + One hundred Kemi Mia + One thousand Uli Elf + + This Neen Hadda + That Waleem Hadduk + Great Bawa Kabeer + Little Nadeen Sereer + Handsome Nimawa Zin + Ugly Nuta Uksheen (k guttur.) + White Kie Bead + Black Feen Khal + Red Williamma Hummer + How do you do? Nimbana mcuntania Kif-enta + Well Kantée Ala-khere + Not well Moon kanti Murrede + What do you want Ala feta matume Ash-bright + Sit down Siduma Jils + Get up Ounilee Node + Sour Akkumula Hamd + Sweet Timiata Helluh + True Aituliala Hack + False Funiala Kadube + Good Abatee Miliah + Bad Minbatee Kubiah + A witch Bua Sahar + A lion Jatta Sebaâ +375 An elephant Samma El fel + A hyæna Salua Dubbah + A wild boar Siwa El kunjer + A water horse Mali Aoud d'Elma + A horse Suhuwa Aoud + A camel Kumaniun Jimmel + A dog Wallee Killeb + Hel el Killeb Hel Wallee Hel El Killeb + or the dog-faced + race. + + A gazel Tankeen Gazel (g guttural) + A cat Niankune El mish + A goat Baâ El mâize + A sheep Kurenale Kibsh + A bull Nisakia Toôr + A serpent Saâ Hensh + A camelion Mineer Tatta + An ape Ku'nee Dzatute + A fowl or chicken Susee Djez + A duck Beruee El Weese + A fish Hihu El hout + Butter Tulu Zibda + Milk Nunn El hellib + Bread Mengu El khubs (k guttur.) + Corn Nieu Zra + Wine Tangee Kummer (k guttur.) + Honey Alee Asel + Sugar Tobabualee Sukar + Salt Kuee Mil'h + Ambergris Anber Anber +376 Brass Tass Tass + Silver Kudee Nukra + Gold-dust Teber Tiber + Pewter Tass ki Kusdeer + A bow Kula El kos + An arrow Binia Zerag + A knife Muru Jenui + A spoon Kulia Mogerfa + A bed El arun El ferrashe + A lamp El kundeel El kundeel + A house Su Ed dar + A room Bune El beet + A light-hole Jinnee Reehâha + or window + A door Daa Beb + A town Kinda Midina + Smoke Sezee Tkan (k guttural) + Heat Kandia Skanna (k guttural) + Cold Nini Berd + Sea Bedu baha Bahar + River Bedu Wed + A rock Berri Jerf + Sand Kinnikanni Rummel + The earth Binku Dunia + Mountain Kuanku Jibbel + Island Juchüi Dzeera + Rain Sanjukalaeen Shta + God Allah Allah + Father Fa Ba + Mother Ba Ma + Hell Jahennum Jehennume +377 A man Kia Rajil + A woman Musa Murrah + A sister Bum musa Kat (k guttural) + A brother Bum kia Ka + The devil Buhau Iblis + A white man Tebabu Rajil biad + A singer Jalikea Runai (r guttural) + A singing woman Jalimusa Runaiah (r guttural) + A slave June Abeed + A servant Bettela Mutalem + + Having now given some account of the languages of Africa, we shall + proceed to animadvert on the similitude of language and customs + between the Shelluhs of Atlas and the original inhabitants of the + Canary Islands. The words between inverted commas, are quotations + from Glasse's History of the Discovery and Conquest of the Canary + Islands. + + "The inhabitants of Lancerotta and Fuertaventura are social and + cheerful;" like the Shelluhs of Atlas; "they are fond of singing + and dancing; their music is vocal, accompanied with a clapping of + hands, and beating with their feet;" the Shelluhs resemble them in + all these respects; "Their houses are built of stone, without + cement; the entrance is narrow, so that but one person can enter at + a time." + +378 The houses of the Shelluhs are sometimes built without cement, but + always with stone; the doors and entrances are low and small, so + that one person only can enter. + + "In their temples they offered to their God milk and butter." + + Among the Shelluhs milk and butter are given as presents to princes + and great men; the milk being an emblem of good will and candour. + + "When they were sick (which seldom happened) they cured themselves + with the herbs which grew in the country; and when they had acute + pains, they scarified the part affected with sharp stones, and + burned it with fire, and then anointed it with goat's butter. + Earthen vessels of this goat's butter were found interred in the + ground, having been put there by the women, who were the makers, + and took that method of preparing it for medicine." + + The custom of the Shelluhs on such occasions is exactly similar; + the butter which they use is old, and is buried under ground many + years in (_bukul_) earthen pots, and is called _budra_: it is a + general medicine, and is said to possess a remarkably penetrating + quality. + + "They grind their barley in a hand-mill, made of two stones, being + similar to those used in some remote parts of Europe". + + In Suse, among the Shelluhs, they grind their corn in the same way, + and barley is the principal food. + + "Their breeches are short, leaving the knees bare;" so are those + worn by the Shelluhs. +379 + "Their common food was barley meal roasted and mixed with goat's + milk and butter, and this dish they call Asamotan." + + This is the common food of the Shelluhs of Atlas, and they call it + by a similar name, Azamitta. + + The opinion of the author of the History and Conquest of the Canary + Islands, is, that the inhabitants came originally from Mauritania, + and this he founds on the resemblance of names of places in Africa + and in the islands: "for," says he, "Telde[214], which is the name + of the oldest habitation in Canaria, Orotaba, and Tegesta, are all + names which we find given to places in Mauritania and in Mount + Atlas. It is to be supposed that Canaria, Fuertaventura, and + Lancerotta, were peopled by the Alarbes[215], who are the nation + most esteemed in Barbary; for the natives of those islands named + milk _Aho_, and barley _Temecin_, which are the names that are + given to those things in the language of the Alarbes of Barbary." + He adds, that-- + + "Among the books of a library that was in the cathedral of St. Anna + in Canaria, there was found one so disfigured, that it wanted both + the beginning and the end: it treated of the Romans, and gave an +380 account, that when Africa was a Roman province, the natives of + Mauritania rebelled and killed their presidents and governors, upon + which the senate, resolving to punish and make a severe example of + the rebels, sent a powerful army into Mauritania, which vanquished + and reduced them again to obedience. Soon after the ringleaders of + the rebellion were put to death, and the tongues of the common + people, together with those of their wives and children, were cut + out, and then they were all put aboard vessels with some grain and + cattle, and transported to the Canary islands." [216] + + [Footnote 214: Telde or Tildie is a place in the Atlas + mountains, three miles east of Agadeer; the castle is in + ruins.] + + [Footnote 215: The Alarbes, this is the name that the + inhabitants of Lower Suse and Sahara have, _El Arab_ or Arabs.] + + [Footnote 216: One Thomas Nicols, who lived seven years in the + Canary Islands, and wrote a history of them, says, that the + best account he could get of the origin of the natives, was, + that they were exiles from Africa, banished thence by the + Romans, who cut out their tongues for blaspheming their gods.] + + The following vocabulary will show the similarity of language + between the natives of Canaria and the Shelluhs (inhabitants of the + Atlas mountains south of Marocco). + + LANCEROTTA AND SHELLUH OR ENGLISH. + FUERTAVENTURA DIALECT. LYBIAN TONGUE. + + Temasin Tumzeen Barley + Tezzezes Tezezreat Sticks + Taginaste Taginast A palm-tree + Tahuyan Tahuyat A blanket, + covering, or petticoat. + Ahemon Amen Water +381 Faycag Faquair Priest or lawyer + Acoran M'koorn God + Almogaren Talmogaren Temples + Tamoyanteen Tigameen Houses + Tawacen Tamouren Hogs + Archormase Akermuse Green figs + Azamotan Azamittan Barley meal fried in oil + Tigot Tigot Heaven + Tigotan Tigotan The Heavens + Thener Athraar A mountain + Adeyhaman Douwaman A hollow valley + Ahico Tahayk A hayk, or coarse garment + Kabeheira Kabeera A head man or a powerful + Ahoren ---- Barley meal roasted + Ara ---- A goat + Ana ---- A sheep + Tagarer ---- A place of justice + + Benehoare, the name of the natives of Palma. + + Beni Hoarie, a tribe of Arabs in Suse between Agadeer and + Terodant.[217] + + [Footnote 217: For further particulars, see Glasse's History of + the Canary Islands, 4to. page 174.] + +382 + + TITLES + OF + THE EMPEROR OF MAROCCO, + STYLE OF ADDRESSING HIM, + AND + SPECIMENS OF EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE. + + + * * * * * + + + _THE TITLES OF THE EMPEROR_ + ARE + + Servant of God. + + Commander, Captain, or Leader of the (Mumeneen) _Faithful_ [i.e. in + Muhamed], _upheld by the Grace of God_. + + _Prince of Hassenee_. Ever supported by God. + + _Sultan of Fas, of Maroksh_ [Marocco], _of Suse, and of Draha, and + of Tafilelt and Tuat, together with all the kabyles_ [tribes] _of + the West, and of the Berebbers of Atlas, &c._ + + The Sultan calls his soldiers (_ketteffee_) "my shoulders or + support, or strength;" his subjects he calls his sons (_woledee_), + and himself the father of his people. + + N.B. The Hejra, or Muhamedan æra began A.D. 622. The Muhamedan + years are lunar, 33 of which are about 32 solar years. + +383 + + THE STYLE + USED BY MUSELMEN, + _IN ADDRESSING THE EMPEROR,_ + IS AS FOLLOWS: + + "Sultan of exalted dignity, whom God preserve. May the Almighty + protect that royal purity, and bestow happiness, increase of + wealth, and prosperity on the nation of believers [i.e. in + Muhamed], whose welfare and power is attributed entirely to the + favour and benevolence of the Exalted God." + + The Sultan is head of the ecclesiastical, military, and civil law, + and is universally considered by his subjects God's Vicegerent, or + Lieutenant on Earth. All letters written to his Imperial Majesty, + are begun with the praise of God, and with the acknowledgment, (in + opposition to idolatry,) that there is neither beginning nor power + but what proceeds from God, the eternal God, (_La hule û la kûa ela + billa, Allah el adeem_.) + +384 + + SPECIMENS + OF + _MUHAMEDAN EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE._ + + * * * * * + + + _The following Letters are literal translations from the original + Arabic, and, although not of great importance, yet it is some + satisfaction to the enquiring mind, to observe the various modes of + address, and to note the style of Epistolary Correspondence + practised by the Muhamedans, which is so different from that which + is used among European and other nations._ + + + * * * * * + + LETTER I. + + _From Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, to Captain Kirke at + Tangier; Ambassador from King Charles the Second, dated 7th Du + Elkadah, in the 1093d Year of the Hejra, (corresponding to the 27th + October, A. D, 1682_.) + + Praise be to God, the most High alone! and the blessing of God be + upon those who are for his prophet. + + From the shereef[218], the servant of God, who putteth his trust in +385 God, the commander of the faithful, who is courageous in the way of + the omniscient God. + + [Footnote 218: Shereef is a general term in the Arabic for a + prince, king, or emperor, signifying royal blood.] + + L.S. + + Ismael Son of a shereef; God illumine + and preserve him. + + God assist his commanders, and give victory to his forces and + armies, Amen! To the captain of Tangier, Kirke, _peace be to those + who follow the right way[219]_; this by way of preface. Your letter + came to the lofty place of our residence, and we understand what + your discourse contained. As for the asking a cessation of arms by + sea; know, that it was not treated of between us till this present + time. Neither did we make truce with you concerning any thing but + Tangier alone. When you came to our illustrious house, we treated + with you about that matter for four years, and if you had sojourned + there yourself, no Muselman would ever have gone into that town + hostilely against you, but merely as a peaceable merchant. + + [Footnote 219: This is a sentence which frequently occurs in + the Koran, but when used in epistolary correspondence with + Christians (for it is never used by Muhamedans between + themselves), it bears the appearance of a salutation, but the + allusion is to Muhamedans, who _these people think_ are the + only men who follow the true path or right way; it is, however, + a compliment to all who _think themselves_ in the right way.] + + As to a cessation of arms by sea, it was not negociated by us, + neither did we discourse about it; but, when you desired it of us, +386 we wrote to your Master in England, saying, If you desire a + cessation of arms by sea, and are willing to receive a firm peace + from us, send us two understanding men, of the chief of the Divan + of England, by whom the peace of all the Christians here may be + confirmed; and, when they shall arrive at the lofty place of our + residence, and sit before us, whatsoever they shall hear from us, + by way of agreement, shall be acceded to! And we have given you + security, at sea, for four months, viz. from the time we sent you + our letter to Tangier, till the day that there shall come an answer + from your Master, and until the arrival of the two ambassadors + aforementioned, after the aforesaid manner. As for those men who in + thy letter thou didst say were taken at sea: I neither know nor + have heard any thing of them. Your discourse about that matter + having been with Aly ben Abdallah, and he administered justice (to + you) upon the Muselmen who had taken these men prisoners for the + sake of him, for whom you made your complaint to us; and he + returned the Christians to you, and imprisoned the sailors for + capturing them. Now, if there shall happen to be a peace between me + and you at sea, as there is for four years by land, through your + mediation, and by reason of your coming to us, I will hang them, + and blot out their footsteps, and be revenged on them with the most + severe revenge. + + Our servant Muhamed ben Hadu Aater, who came from your presence, + told us that lions are scarce in your country, and that they are in +387 high estimation, with you. When your servant came to us, he found + we had two small young lions, wherefore by him we send them to you. + And know, that we have received by our servants from your Master, + _three_ coach-horses, now a coach requires _four_ horses to draw + it, wherefore you must needs send us another good one of the same + kind and size, that they may draw the coach with four horses. + Oblige us in this by all means. Farewell: we depend upon it. + + Written 7th of the sacred month _Du El Kadah_, in the year of the + Hejra, ninety-three and a thousand, (A.D. 1682.) + + + LETTER II. + + _From the same Muley Ismael to Sir Cloudesly Shovel, on board the + Charles Galley, off Salee, written Aug. 26. A.D. 1684, year of the + Hejra 1095_. + + L.S. + + I, servant of God, and Emperor of + Marocco and King of Mauritania, + whom God preserve in all + his undertakings, &c. + + I Salute you and the rest of the captains. + + As for the captives you have taken, they belong to several places, + and are not all my subjects; and what I do is out of charity, as + they are Muhamedans, being forced to go to sea for want of + maintenance. As for those that are my soldiers, they go to sea to +388 fight and to die in my quarrels; but, those _Moors_ that _you_ have + taken, are inconsiderable and of no account. + + Henceforward I shall have ships as big as yours, if not bigger, + hoping to take some of your ships and captains, and cruise for you + in your English seas, as you do for us in these. + + I have written letters to the King of England, in which are kind + expressions: And when you had Tangier, all things were given to you + as you wanted, and all done out of kindness; and now that you have + left Tangier for the Moors, whatever His Majesty of Great Britain + wants, either by sea or by land, it shall be granted, so that there + be a peace betwixt the two crowns; for which I pass my word and + faith. + + Now, _I have written several letters to his Majesty of Great + Britain, to which I have received as yet no answer_; but, when it + (the answer) reaches my hands, I hope there will be a good + accommodation between us. + + You have taken several of our ships and destroyed others, and you + are cruising on our coast, which is not the way to make a good + peace, neither the actions of honesty in you. + + God be praised that you have quitted Tangier and left it to us, to + whom it did belong: from henceforward we shall keep it well + supplied with stores, for it is the best port of our dominions. + + As for the captives you have taken, you may do as you please with +389 them, heaving them into the sea, or otherwise destroying them. The + English merchants that are here resident, shall satisfy all their + debts, which being done, none of them shall remain in my country. + + + LETTER. III. + + _Captain Shovel's Answer_. + + May it please Your Majesty, + + We, the King of England's captains, return Your Majesty humble + thanks for your kind wishes to us. Your Majesty by this may know, + that we have received your letter, and by it we understand, that + Your Majesty is informed that most of these people that are taken + are not your subjects. We perceive by this, as well as in other + things, how grossly Your Majesty has been deceived by those people + you trust; else, we doubt not, but that, long before this, our + Master, whom God preserve, and Your Majesty had accommodated all + differences, and we should have had a firm peace. + + Of those fifty-three slaves that are here, (excepting two or + three,) they are all Moors of their own country, as they themselves + can make appear; but, if they are to be disowned because they are + poor, the Lord help them!! Your Majesty tells us, that we may throw + them overboard, if we please: all this we very well know; but we + are Christians, and they bear the form of men, which is reason +390 enough for us not to do so. + + As to Tangier, our Master kept it twenty-one years; and the world + is sensible, that in spite of all your force, he could, if he had + pleased, have continued to keep it to the world's end; for, he + levelled your walls, filled up your harbour, and demolished your + houses, in the face of your Alkaid and his army; and when he had + done, he left your[220] barren country (without the loss of a man) + for your own people to starve in: but our departure from thence, + long before this, we doubt not, but you have repented of. When you + tell us of those mighty ships Your Majesty intends to build and + send to our coast, you must excuse us if we think ourselves the + better judges; for we know, as to shipping, what you are able to + do. + + [Footnote 220: The gallant and magnanimous captain was better + acquainted with the coast than with the country, which is any + thing but barren.] + + If you think fit to redeem those slaves, at 100 dollars a-piece, + they are at Your Majesty's service, and the rest shall be sent to + you; or, if you think fit to give us so many English in exchange, + we shall be well satisfied; but we think you will hardly comply + with that, for the poorest slave that ever our Master redeemed out + of _your_ country, cost him 200 dollars; and some of these five + times that sum, for he freely extended his charity to all, and + never forgets his people _because they are poor_. +391 + It is great wonder to us, that you should tax us with unjust + proceedings in taking your ships in time of truce, when Your + Majesty may remember that, during the time your ambassador was in + England, your corsairs took about twenty sail of my Master's ships; + and this very year, you have fitted out all the force in your + kingdom to sea, who have taken several of our ships, and at the + same time pretend to a truce for peace! But some of your ships, for + their unjust dealings, have had their reward, and the rest, when + they shall come to sea, we doubt not but God Almighty will put them + into our hands. + + If Your Majesty think fit to send proposals to my Master concerning + peace, I shall take care for the speedy and safe conveyance of the + same. I desire Your Majesty's speedy answer; for I do not intend to + stay long before Salee. + + Wishing Your Majesty long life and happiness, I subscribe myself, + Your Majesty's + + Most obedient and humble Servant, + + CLOUDESLY SHOVEL. + + Sept. 1684 A.D. + +392 + + LETTER IV. + + _A literal Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter + to Queen Anne, in the year of our Lord 1710, extracted from the + Harl. MSS. 7525_. + + L.S. + + In the name of the most + merciful God. + + He that depends upon God goeth straight to the right way. From the + servant of God, the Emperor of the believers, who maketh war for + the cause of the Lord of both worlds, Ismael ben Assherif Al + Hassanee to the Queen of the English, nay of England, and the + mistress of the great parliament thereof, happiness to every one + that followeth the right way, and believes in God, and is so + directed. + + This premised, we have heard from more than one of the comers and + goers from thy country, that thou hast seized our Armenian servant, + a person of great esteem. We sent him to thee, to compose a + difference between us and thee, and we wrote to thee concerning + him, that thou shouldst use him well. Then, after this, we heard + that thou didst set him at liberty: And wherefore didst thou seize + him? Hath he exceeded any covenant, or hath he made any covenant + with thee and broke it? We should not have sent him to thee, but on +393 account of our knowledge and assurance of his understanding and + integrity; and when he resolved upon his journey into your country, + we gave him directions to dispatch some of our affairs. Wherefore + we wrote unto thee concerning him, and said, If thou hast any + necessity or business with us, he will convey it to us from thee. + And we said unto thee, Speak with him, and whatsoever thou sayest + unto him, he will communicate unto us, without addition or + diminution. + + As for what our servant Alkaid Ali ben Abdallah did to ----, the + Christian, thy servant, by God we know nothing of it, nor gave him + any permission as to any thing that passed between them; and, at + the instant that we heard that he had taken thy man, we commanded + him to set him at liberty forthwith; and since then we have never + manifested any favour to Alkaid Ali, nor was our mind ever right + towards him afterwards till he died. + + Our Christian servant, the merchant, Bayly, told us, that thou + hadst a mind to an ostrich, and we gave him two, a male and a + female, which shall come to you, if God will. And, lo! a secretary, + our servant, (who is much esteemed by us,) when he cometh he shall + bring what goods he hath collected with him, if it please God. And + we are in expectation of thy messenger the ambassador; and if he + comes, he shall see nothing from us but what is fair; and we will + deliver to him the Christians, and do what he pleases, if God will. + Wherefore be kind to our servant, with respect. +394 + Written the first of the Glorious Ramadan, in the year of the Hejra + 1125 (corresponding with A.D. 1710). + + + LETTER V. + + _Translation of an Arabic Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed[221] + ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident + at Tangier, delivered to each of them, by the Bashaw of the + province of El Grarb, on 1st day of June, 1788, corresponding with + the year of the Hejra, 1202_. + + [Footnote 221: Father of the present Sultan Soliman ben + Muhamed.] + + L.S. + + Mohamed ben Abdallah, ben + Ismael, Sultan ben, Sultan, + &c. + + In the name of God, for there is no power or strength but from God. + + To all the Consuls at Tangier. + + Peace (be) to those who follow the right path. + + By this you will learn that we are in peace and friendship with all + the Christian powers until the month of May of the next year, (of + the Hejra, 1203,) and such nations as shall then be desirous to + continue in peace and friendship with us, are to write a letter to + us, when the month of May comes, to inform us if they are in peace + and friendship with us, then we shall be the same with them; but, + if any Christian nation desire to go to war with us, they will let +395 us know before the month above-mentioned; and we trust God will + keep us in his protection against them; and thus I have said all I + had to say. + + 2d day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1202, (corresponding with 7th + May, 1788.) + + + LETTER VI. + + _Letter from Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. + to His Majesty George III. literally translated from the original + Arabic, by James Grey Jackson, at the request of the Right Hon. + Spencer Perceval, after lying in the Secretary of State's Office + here for several months, and being then sent ineffectually to the + Universities for translation, and after various enquiries had been + made on behalf of the Emperor, to the Governor of Gibraltar, the + Bashaw of El Garb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any + answer had been returned to his Imperial Majesty._ + + In the name of God! the all-merciful and commiserating God, on whom + is our account, and we acknowledge his support; for there is + neither beginning nor power but that which proceeds from God, the + High Eternal God. + + From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful [in Muhamed] + upheld and supported by the Grace of God. + + Soliman the son of Muhamed, the son of Abdallah, the son of Ismael, + Prince of [the house or dynasty of Hassan][222] who was ever upheld +396 by the power of God, Sultan of Fas and Marocco, and Suse, and + Draha, and Tafilelt, and Tuat, together with all the territories of + the West. + + [Footnote 222: The words between brackets are not in the original, + but implied.] + + L.S. + + Soliman, son of Mohamed, son + Abdallah, God illumine and support + him! + + To our dearly beloved and cherished, exalted by the power of God, + the Sultan[223] George the Third, Sultan of the territories of the + United Kingdom of Great Britain, Ireland, Duke of Mecklenburg + Strelitz, Prince, descended from the dynasty of the Sultans of Rome + and Palestine, &c. + + This premised, we inform you, that we make diligent inquiry about + you, desiring heartily that you may be at all times surrounded by + health and prosperity. We wish you to increase in friendship with + us, that our alliance may be more strongly cemented than + heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors, + whom God guard and protect. + + Now therefore we make known to you, that your physician, Doctor + Buffé, has been in our royal presence, [which is] exalted by the + bounty of God, and we have been well pleased with his medical + knowledge and diligent attention, and moreover with the relief he + has given to us. + +397 We have therefore to entreat of you to give him your royal order to + return to Gibraltar, in our neighbourhood, well provided with all + good and necessary medicines; that he, residing at Gibraltar, may + be ready to attend quickly our royal presence, whenever we may be + in need of his [medical] assistance. We trust you will return him + without procrastination to our throne, seeing that he has been of + essential service to us. + + We recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffé, in your favour and esteem on + our account, and we will always be your allies and friends. May you + ever be well and in prosperity! Peace be with you, 4th of the month + Jumad El Lule in the year [of the Hejra] 1221, (corresponding with + 5th July, 1806, A.D.) + + [Footnote 223: This perhaps is the only letter extant, wherein + a Muselman Prince gives the title of Sultan to a Christian + king.] + + + LETTER VII. + + In Muhamedan countries, an insolvent man continues liable to his + creditors till the day of his death, unless the debt is discharged; + but he can claim by law his liberation from prison, on making oath, + and bringing proof of his insolvency: but then if he succeed + afterwards and become possessed of property, he is compelled to pay + the debts formerly contracted; so that an European should be + cautious how he contracts debts with the Moors, lest the + misfortunes that commerce is liable to should oblige him to remain + all his life in the country. A letter, similar to the following, +398 should be procured by every European, about to quit the country, to + prevent the extortion of the alkaid, who might, as has often + happened before, throw impediments in the way for the purpose of + extorting presents, &c. + + _Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated from + the Original Arabic, by James Grey Jackson._ + + L.S. + + Soliman ben Muhamed, ben + Abdallah, ben Ismael Sultan, + &c. + + Praise be to God alone. + + Our servants El Hage Mohamed o Bryhim, and Seid Mohamed Bel Akkia, + peace and the mercy of God be with you! This premised, I command + you to suffer the Christian merchant, Jackson, to embark for his + own country, if it appears to you that no one pursues him in law + [for debt,] as I wrote to you on this subject in my last letter: if + no one claims of him any right by law, allow him to go, and do not + impede him.[224] God protect you, and peace be with you. 3d day of + Saffer, the good year 1220 of the Hejra, (A.C. 1805.) + + [Footnote 224: This repetition of the principal subject in + Arabic correspondence, is a mode of impressing on the mind more + forcibly, the subject intended to be impressed, and is commonly + practised by the best Arabian, and African writers; it also + frequently occurs in the inspired writings. See Psalms lxxv, l. + lxxvii, 1. &c.] + + + LETTER VIII. + + As a specimen of the lofty style of writing so much in use among +399 the Eastern authors, I shall add the summons which Hulacu the + Tartar conqueror of the East, (who took Bagdad, and entirely + subverted the government of the Saracens,) sent to Al Mâlek + Annâsar, sultan of Aleppo, in the year of the Hejra 657, (of Christ + 1259.) + + Let Al Mâlek Annâsar know, that we sat down before Bagdad in the + 655th year (of the Hejra,) and took it by the sword of the most + high God: and we brought the master of it before us, and demanded + two things of him; to which he, not answering, brought deserved + punishment upon himself. As it is written in your Koran, "_God doth + not change the condition of a people, till their own minds are + changed_." He took care of his wealth, and fate brought him to what + he is come to. He chose to exchange precious lives for pieces of + money made of vile metal; which is plainly the same that God says + _They found_ [the reward of] _what they had done present with + them_.[225] For we have attained by the power of God, what we + desired; and by the help of the most high God we shall increase. + Nor is there any doubt of our being the army of God upon his earth. + He created us, and gave us power over every one upon whom his anger + rests. Wherefore, let what is past be to you an example, and what + we have mentioned a warning. Fortifications are nothing in our +400 hands, nor doth the joining of battle avail you any thing; nor will + your intreaties be heard or regarded. Take warning therefore by + others, and surrender entirely to us, before the veil be taken off, + and [_the punishment of_] sin light upon you. For we shall have no + mercy upon him that complains, nor be moved by him that weeps. We + have wasted countries, we have destroyed men, we have made children + orphans, and the land desolate. It is your business to run away; + ours to pursue; nor can you escape our swords, nor fly from our + arrows. Our horses are racers; our arrows strike home; our swords + pierce like lightning; our fortifications are like mountains, and + our numbers like the sand. Whosoever surrenders comes off safe: + whosoever is for war, repents it. If you will obey our command, and + come to our terms, your interest and ours shall be the same; but if + you be refractory and persist in your error, blame not us, but + yourselves. God is against you, ye wicked wretches: look out for + something to screen you under your miseries, and find somebody to + bear you company in your affliction. We have given you fair + warning, and fair warning is fair play. You have eaten things + forbidden[226], you have been perfidious in your treaties. You have + introduced new heresies, and thought it a gallant thing to commit +401 sodomy. Prepare yourselves therefore for scorn and contempt. Now + you will find what you have done; for they that have done amiss, + will now find their state changed. You take it for granted, that we + are infidels. We take it for granted, that you are _villains_; and + _He_ by whose hand all things are disposed and determined, hath + given us the dominion over you. The greatest man you have is + despicable among us; and what _you_ call rich, is a beggar. We + govern the world from east to west, and whosoever is worth any + thing is our prey; and we take every ship by force. Weigh therefore + what is fit to be done, and return us a speedy answer, before + _infidelity_[227] shall have kindled its fire, and scattered its + sparks among you, and destroy you all from off the face of the + earth. We have awakened you by sending to you: make haste with an + answer, lest punishment come upon you unawares. + + [Footnote 225: A quotation from the Koran. The Tartar was a + deist, and quotes the Koran in derision.] + + [Footnote 226: The Muhamedans, whose religion is a compound of + Judaism and Christianity, have borrowed many customs from + either, they abstain like the Jews from swine's flesh, &c.] + + [Footnote 227: As the Muhamedans charge every nation that doth + not believe Muhamed to have been a prophet with infidelity, so + the Tartar (who was a Deist) returns it upon them.] +402 + + LETTER IX. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to Webster + Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their + High Mightinesses the States-General, of the Seven United + Provinces. Written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and + previous to the Negotiation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer, + to Dutch Commerce._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God." + + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan ben Sultan, (i.e. Emperor and Son of an + Emperor.) + + "To the Consul Blount. Peace be with those who follow the right + way, or the way of the true God: and this being premised, know that + I have received your letter, and that we are with you, (the Dutch + nation,) in peace and amity and good faith, and peace be with you. + 22 Ramadan, year of the Hejra 1204, (A.C. 1792.)" + + Translated literally by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + + LETTER X. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid, to the Governor + of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the + Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God, the eternal God." +403 + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan + ben Sultan. + + "Our servant (or agent) Alkaid Aumer ben Daudy, peace be unto you, + with the mercy and blessing of God: this premised, I command that + all the duties you have collected be sent to me speedily by my + brother[228] Muley Soliman, who will (_berik_) discharge you by + receipt for every thing you deliver to him, for he is our + representative. We are preparing to go to the siege of Ceuta, with + the acquiescence of the High God, by whose power we hope to enter + it, and take it. And we command you to send the Alkaid M'saud El + Hayanie to my port of Agadeer, with all things necessary for his + journey, assisting him with every possible succour, and send with + him twenty Benianters[229], who must be sailors skilful in the + management of boats; and the Christian merchants of the Dutch + nation will go to Agadeer, and establish their houses there; for I + have given that port to the Dutch to trade there: and send with + them Talb Aumer Busedra, and the eye of God be upon you, and peace + be with you." + + [Footnote 228: The duties were at this time collected in kind; + viz. one tenth of every thing imported from Europe: and the + present Emperor Muly Soliman was deputed to convey them to the + camp before Ceuta, to his brother, the Emperor Muley Yezzid, + whose army was besieging that fortress.] + + [Footnote 229: _Benianters_, are a kabyle of Shelluhs of Suse, + who are employed to work, and row the boats, and land the goods + at Mogodor.] + +404 + + Seventh day of Arrabea Ellule, year (Hejra) 1205.[230] + + Translated by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + "Be vigilant with respect to the matter of the establishment of + Agadeer, and of M'saud El Hayanie." [231] + + [Footnote 230: Corresponding with A.C. 1793.] + + [Footnote 231: The Emperors of Marocco, and the Arabian writers + in general thus repeat the principal subject of a letter or + discourse, to impress it more forcibly on the mind.] + + + LETTER XI. + + _Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa, in their + Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan + faith_. + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength without God, the eternal God. + + "From the servant of the great God, El Hage Abdrahaman El Fellely, + to my friend Consul Jackson, peace be to those who follow the right + way, or who pursue the right path; and then, O my friend, I have + received your letter, and I have taken good notice of its contents, + &c. &c." + + The letter, after explaining matters of business, concludes thus:-- + + "Do not leave me without news from you; and peace be with you, and + peace from me to our friend L'hage Muhamed Bu Zeyd; and peace from + me to Seed Muham'd bel Hassen, and to the Fakeer Seed Abdallah, and +405 praise be to God, I am very well, and prosperous." + + "Written 15th day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1209, (1797, A.C.)" + + The style in which letters are addressed is generally as follows:-- + + "This shall arrive, God willing, to the hands of Consul Jackson, at + Agadeer. May God prosper it." + + + LETTER XII. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Sultan, Seedi Muhamed Emperor of + Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor_. + + "Praise be to God alone, + + "I order my servant Alkaid Muhamed ben Amran, to deliver the + treasure and the merchandise to the Christian merchants at Mogodor, + which is in the possession of the Jews, Haim Miram, and Meemon ben + Isaac Corcos, and others of the Jews, friends of the Christian + merchants. God assist you, and peace be with you. 23d of the month + Jumad Ellule, year of the Hejra 1203. + + "By order of the Sultan, empowered by God. Written by Talb El + Huderanie." + + The courier who receives the letter is ordered by the minister whom + to deliver it to. It is then inclosed in a blank leaf or sheet of + paper, without any address, and not sealed. It is presumed, that + the courier or messenger will not dare to open it, or discover the + contents to any one; such a breach of confidence might cost him his + head, if discovered. +406 + _Doubts having been made in the Daily Papers, concerning the + accuracy of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of Mungo Park's Death; the following Observations, by the + Author, are laid before the Public in elucidation of those + Translations_. + + The following is a copy of a letter, supposed to be a description + of Mungo Park's death; brought to England from Ashantee in Africa, + by Mr. Bowdich; and that gentleman assured me, about six months + after his arrival in England, and a few days previous to the + publication of his interesting account of a mission to Ashantee, + that he had by every means in his power endeavoured, but + ineffectually, to get this manuscript _decyphered_ and translated + into English; that he had sent it to several persons, who had + retained it in their hands a considerable time, but had returned it + without a decypher, or even a complete translation. When delivered + into my hands, I transmitted him a _decypher_, and a translation + immediately. The following is my translation, which, in that + gentleman's account of Ashantee, is coupled with another + translation, _not perspicuous, but unintelligible_; for which see + Bowdich's "Account of a Mission to Ashantee," Appendix, No. 2. + + The original Arabic document, of which I have given a decypher in +407 the work before mentioned, is, (for the information of gentlemen + desirous of referring to the same,) deposited in the British + Museum. There are also, in the same work on Ashantee, several + papers decyphered by me, of certain routes in Africa. Now I think + it expedient here, to declare to the public, that whenever the + British Government, the Court of Admiralty, or private individuals, + have stood in need of translations, and decyphers from the Arabic, + they have invariably found it expedient, ultimately, to apply to me + for the same, after having, however, endeavoured ineffectually to + procure their information at the Universities, the Post Office, and + elsewhere: but as this declaration may appear to many incredible, I + will mention three instances in elucidation of this my assertion, + which, as they are all on record, will place this fact beyond + doubt. + + 1st. A vessel under Marocco colours, was, during last war, taken by + a British cruiser, and sent or brought into Plymouth, or other + port, in England. The captain and the ship were detained a + considerable time here; the former, at length, whose patience + became exhausted, expostulated at his detention, and insisted on + being released, if no interpreter in this commercial nation could + be found competent to translate his passport. _Mr. Slade, an + eminent proctor in Doctors' Commons_, then applied to me, after a + detention of, I believe, two months, and I translated the passport. +408 Mr. Slade very liberally told me, that whatever I chose to charge + for this service, which he had _sought in vain to accomplish_, + should be gratefully paid. I charged five guineas; and it was + instantly paid. The passport consisted of two lines and a half. + This was in the Court of Admiralty. Mr. Slade, who is an honourable + and respectable man, will of course not hesitate to corroborate the + accuracy of this statement. + + 2d. A letter was written by the present Sultan Soliman, emperor of + Marocco, &c. to our late revered sovereign, George III., in a more + courteous style than is usual for Muhamedan potentates to write to + Christian kings; with liberal offers on the part of the Sultan, + courting an augmentation of friendly intercourse, &c. This letter + (contrary to the usual courtesy of European courts) was neglected + some months, no answer being returned to it. It was sent to the + Universities for translation, but ineffectually; then to the Post + Office; and, at the expiration of some months, it was accidentally + transmitted to me, through the hands of the Right Honourable + Spencer Perceval, at that time Chancellor of the Exchequer, and I + delivered, at the request of that gentleman, a translation of it in + English. This letter was ten or fifteen times as long as the + passport before mentioned, and I charged thirty pounds for the + service. But the Treasury thought ten pounds a sufficient + remuneration, which I accepted!! +409 + This service was rendered to the British government, and I have + letters and documents in my possession, which corroborate this + fact. + + 3d. Was the translation of an Arabic manuscript, respecting Mungo + Park's death; delivered gratuitously to a private individual, viz. + Mr. Bowdich, before mentioned; to satisfy the curiosity of my + country, whose interest was excited respecting the fate of that + enterprising and indefatigable African traveller. Mr. Bowdich, who + is an honourable man, will undoubtedly confirm the truth of this + statement, to any gentleman who may be desirous of ascertaining the + fact. + + _The Shereef Ibrahim's account of Mungo Park's Death_. + + (THE AUTHOR'S TRANSLATION.) + + "In the name of God, the Merciful and Clement! + + "This narrative proceeds from the territory in Husa, called Eeaurie + or Yeaurie. We observed an extraordinary event or circumstance, but + we neither saw nor heard of the river which is called Kude. And as + we were sitting we heard the voice of children; and we saw a + vessel, the like to which in size we never saw before. And we saw + the king of Eeaurie send cattle and sheep, and a variety of + vegetables, in great abundance. And there were two men and one + woman, and two slaves; and they tied them in the vessel. There were +410 also in the vessel two white men, of the race called Christians: + and the Sultan of Eeaurie called aloud to them, to come out of the + vessel, but they would not. They proceeded to the country of Busa, + which is greater than that of the Sultan of Eeaurie. And as they + were sitting in the vessel, they hung[232], or were stopped by the + cape, or head-land of Kude." + + [Footnote 232: Probably by an impetuous current.] + + "And the people of the sultan of Busa called to them, and poured + their arms into the vessel; and the vessel reached the head-land or + cliff, and became attached or fixed to the head of the mountain or + projection in the river, and could not pass it. Then the men and + women of Busa collected themselves hostilely together, with arms of + all descriptions; and the vessel being unable to clear the + head-land, the man in the vessel killed his wife, and threw the + whole of her property into the river; they then threw themselves + into the river through fear. The news of this occurrence was then + conveyed to the Sultan Wawee, until it reached, by water, the + territory of Kanjee, in the country of the Sultan Wawee. And we + buried it in its earth; and one of them we saw not at all in the + water. And God knows the truth of this report from the mouth of the + Shereef Ibrahim. The end." + +411 OBSERVATION. + + After giving the foregoing translation, it behoves me to inform the + intelligent reader, that I wrote a letter to Mr. Bowdich, + communicating to him my observations on several notes, transmitted + to him by Sir William Ouseley, on the manuscript of which the + foregoing is a translation, in which I informed him, that in + decyphering the Arabic manuscript, I had observed the Oriental or + Asiatic punctuation; knowing that Mr. Bulmer had not letters with + the occidental punctuation. Several observations I made, respecting + the Arabic manuscripts which could not be elucidated here without + the Arabic type. I shall, therefore, omit them, and conclude by + observing, that in translating this manuscript, two gentlemen + (Arabic scholars) had translated _akkadan Fie Asfeena_, "two maids + in the ship;" which words I have translated, "were tied or bound in + the vessel:" the word _akkadan_ being the preterite of the verb + _akkad_, to bind. I was not surprised to hear that _one_ translator + had made such an interpretation; knowing that incredible errors + have been frequently committed by professed Professors in the + Hebrew language as well as in the Arabic. But when I heard, as I + did, that another Arabic scholar had given a similar + interpretation, I must confess that I was not a little surprised. + However, a circumstance soon after unravelled the mystery; for I + discovered that these two gentlemen, at a loss no doubt to +412 ascertain the meaning of _akkadan_, had referred to Richardson's + Arabic Dictionary, wherein the word is quoted to signify, in a + figurative sense, a virgin. _In a figurative sense!_ In translating + an ill-written, illiterate, and ungrammatical manuscript, these two + translators had had recourse to _rhetorical figures_, and actually + substituted a trope for what was a verb, generally used in the + West, signifying "to bind!" + + As it has been asserted in the following extract, that my + translation of the foregoing manuscript differs _only in a trifling + degree_ from that of Mr. Abraham Salamé, I here insert my answer to + that assertion, leaving the intelligent reader to determine, + whether they are alike or materially different. + + _Extract from The Times, 3d May, 1819_. + + MUNGO PARK. + + The death of this enterprising traveller is now placed beyond any + doubt. Many accounts of it have been received, and although varying + as to the circumstances attending it, yet all agreeing that it has + taken place. One statement was given to Mr. Bowdich, while on his + mission to the King of the Ashantees, in 1817, by a Moor, who said + that he was an eye-witness; and the same gentleman procured an + Arabic manuscript declaratory of Mr. Park's death. This manuscript + has been deposited with the African Association, formed for the +413 purpose of extending researches in that part of the world. Two + translations have been made of this curious document; one by Mr. + Salamé, an Egyptian, who accompanied Viscount Exmouth in his attack + on Algiers, as interpreter; and the other by Mr. Jackson, formerly + consul at one of the Barbary courts. The following is Mr. Salamé's + translation, from which, however, _the one by Mr. Jackson only + differs in a trifling degree_. The words in italics have been + inserted by Mr. Salamé, in order to render the reading more + perfect, and are not in the original:-- + + _A literal Translation of a Declaration written in a corrupted + Arabic, from the Town of Yaud, in the Interior of Africa_. + + "'In the name of God, the merciful and the munificent. This + declaration is issued from the town called Yaud, in the county of + Kossa. We (the writer) do witness the _following_ case (statement.) + We never saw, nor heard of the sea (river) called Koodd; but we sat + to hear (understood) the voice (report) of some persons, _saying_, + 'We saw a ship, equal to her we never saw before; and the King of + Yaud had sent plenty of every kind of food, with cows and sheep; + _there_ were two men, one woman, two male slaves, and two maids in + the ship; _the_ two white men _were_ derived from the race (sect) +414 of Nassri (Christ, or Christianity.) The King of Yaud asked them to + come out to him (to land); but they refused coming out (landing); + and they went to the _King_ of the country of Bassa, who is greater + than the King of Yaud; and _while_ they _were_ sitting in the ship, + and gaining a position (rounding) over the Cape of Koodd, and + _were_ in society with the people of the King of Bassa, the ship + reached (struck) a head of mountain, which took (destroyed) _her_ + away, and the men and women of Bassa all together, with every kind + of arms (goods); and the ship could find no way to avoid the + mountain; and the man who _was_ in the ship, killed his wife, and + threw all his property into the sea (river), and _then_ they threw + themselves _also_, from fear. Afterwards they took one _out of the_ + water till the news reached the town of Kanji, the country of the + King of Wawi; and the King of Wawi heard of it; he buried him in + his earth (grave), and the other we have not seen; perhaps he is in + the bottom of the water. And God knows best.' Authentic from the + mouth of Sherif Abraham.--Finis.' + + "In addition to the foregoing, another corroboration has been + obtained. Lieut. Col. Fitzclarence, when on his voyage down the + Mediterranean on board the _Tagus_ frigate, Capt. Dundas, with + despatches from the Marquis of Hastings, learnt from the governor + to the two sons of the Emperor of Marocco, who had been on a + pilgrimage to Mecca, and were then returning home, that he (Hadjee +415 Tahib) had been at Timbuctoo in 1807, and had heard of _two white_ + men, who came from the sea, having been near that place the year + before; and that they sold beads, and had no money to purchase + grain. This person added, that they went down the _Nile_ to the + eastward, and that general report stated that they _died of the + climate_. There can be little doubt but the _two white_ men here + alluded to were Mr. Park and his companion, Lieutenant Martyn, who + were at Sandsanding in Nov. 1805, and could, in the following year, + have been near Timbuctoo. Sandsanding is the place from whence the + last dispatches were dated by Mr. Park; and Amadi Fatouma, who was + his guide afterwards, was sent to learn his fate, and returned with + an account of Mr. Park being drowned. The statement of this person + was, however, of such a nature as to excite suspicions of its + correctness; and hopes were entertained that Mr. Park had not met + with such an untimely fate. Fourteen years have now almost elapsed + since the date of his last dispatches; and this circumstance is of + itself sufficient to demonstrate, that he is to be added to the + catalogue of those who have perished in their attempts to explore + the interior of Africa.--_Englishman_." + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE BRITISH STATESMAN. + + Sir;--Seeing in your Paper of yesterday a translation of the Arabic +416 manuscript respecting Mr. Mungo Park's death, which is deposited + with the African Association, and _decyphered and transcribed by + me_ in Mr. Bowdich's account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480, and + perceiving that the errors in _that translation_ are thus + propagated to the public through the medium of the London Papers; + which although perhaps of little consequence to the general reader, + yet, as they are of importance to the critic, and to the + investigator of African affairs, I shall take the liberty of + offering a few observations on the subject. + + The following passage, in the translation above alluded to, might + have passed the public eye without animadversion as the language of + a foreigner, (as we have understood Mr. Salamé to be,) but from the + intelligent Editor of a London daily paper, might we not have + expected more correct phraseology?[233] + + [Footnote 233: "The phrases thus objected to by our learned + Correspondent, were contained in the translations furnished to + us in common with other papers, and not the language of the + Editor. Indeed, this appears to be admitted by our + Correspondent himself, in the apparently very just comments he + has thus favoured us with.--EDITOR."] + + "The ship reached a head of mountain which took her away, and the + men and women of Bassa, altogether with every kind of arms, and the + ship could find no way to avoid the mountain." + + I have no hesitation in declaring to be incorrect the first two +417 lines of Mr. Abraham Salamé's translation, inserted in your paper + of yesterday, which runs thus:-- + + "_This declaration is issued from the town called YAUD, in the + country of KOSSA_." + + My translation of this passage, inserted in Mr. Bowdich's account + of a Mission to Ashantee, page 478, runs thus:-- + + "_This narrative proceeds from the territory in HAUSA called + ECAUREE_." + + No one, I presume, will say that there is not a _manifest_ + difference between these two translations--between _the town called + Yaud, in the country of Kossa_, and the _territory of Hausa, called + Ecauree_. + + One of these translations must therefore necessarily be incorrect. + The Arabic manuscript decyphered and transcribed by me, is inserted + in Mr. Bowdich's work, page 480. Those who may feel interested in + ascertaining which is the correct and precise translation, are + requested to refer to the transcript above-mentioned, or to the + original manuscript, in the possession of the African Association. + As for myself, I presume I am right; and would submit the decision + to the judgment of either Sir Gore Ousley, or to that of Sir + William, or to the opinion of any Arabic scholar, to decide this + question. + + If, Mr. Editor, you had an Arabic type, to save the trouble of + referring to the original, I should ask the Arabic scholar if it + were possible for any man to translate the following passage in +418 that document:--"Bled Hausa eekalu Ecuree"--"the town called Yaud, + in the country of Cossa;" whilst I should maintain that it would + admit of no other translation but the following, viz.--"the country + of Hausa, called Ecauree." + + If you think this elucidation of the translation of the Manuscript + of Park's death sufficiently interesting to the public to deserve a + place in your intelligent paper, it is very much at your service. + + From, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + Professor of African Languages, and formerly British Consul and + Agent for Holland, Sweden, and Denmark, at Santa Cruz, South + Barbary.[234] + + _Circus, Minories, May 4._ 1819. + + [Footnote 234: See BRITISH STATESMAN, May 6th, 1819.] + +419 + + LETTERS RESPECTING AFRICA, + FROM + _J.G. JACKSON AND OTHERS._ + + + + + _On the Plague._ + + To JAMES WILLIS, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. + + London, October 30, 1804. + + My dear Sir, + + Your letter reached my hands yesterday; but I am afraid I shall not + be able to satisfy you in every enquiry which you have made + relative to the plague in Barbary in 1799. I have, however, no + doubt but the plague which has prevailed in Spain has originated + from it. Some of the following observations may probably be of + service to you. + + It does not appear to be ascertained how the plague originated in + Fas in the year 1799. Some persons have ascribed it to infected + merchandise received at Fas from the East; whilst others maintain + that the locusts which had infested Western Barbary during seven + years, destroying the crops, the vegetables, and every green thing, + even to the bark of the trees, produced such a scarcity, that the +420 poor could obtain scarcely any thing to eat but the locusts; and + living on them for several months, till a most abundant crop + enabled them to satisfy the cravings of nature, they ate abundantly + of the new corn, which producing a fever, brought on the contagion. + At this time the small-pox pervaded the country, and was generally + fatal. The small-pox is thought to be the forerunner of this + species of contagion, as appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, + which gives a full account of the same disorder having carried off + two-thirds of the inhabitants of West Barbary about four hundred + years since; but, however the dreadful epidemy originated, the + leading features of the disorder were novel, and more dreadful than + the common plague of Turkey, or that of Syria or Egypt, as the + following observations will demonstrate. + + In the month of April, 1799, a plague of the most dreadful kind + manifested itself at the city of Old Fas, which soon after + communicated itself to the new city. About this time the Emperor + Muley Soliman ben Muhamed was preparing a numerous army, and was on + the eve of departure to visit his Southern dominions, and to take + possession of the province of Abda, which had not acknowledged him + as Emperor, but was, as well as the port of Saffy, in a state of + rebellion. The Emperor left Fas early in the summer, and proceeded + to Sallee, Mazagan, and Saffee; thence to Marocco and Mogodor. Now + the plague began to kindle in all the Southern provinces, first + carrying off one or two the first day, three or four the second +421 day, six or eight the third day, and increasing progressively till + it amounted to a daily mortality of two in a hundred of the whole + population; continuing _with unabated violence_, ten, fifteen, + twenty days, being of longer duration in old than in new towns; + then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one thousand + a-day, to nine hundred, to eight hundred and so continuing to + decrease till it disappeared. + + When it raged at the town of Mogodor, a small village (Deabet) + situated two miles South-east of Mogodor remained uninfected, + although the communication was open between these two places. On + the thirty-fourth day after its first appearance at Mogodor, this + village received the infection, where, after committing dreadful + havock among the human species for twenty-one days carried off one + hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, the population + of the village before the plague visited it. After this, none died; + but those who were infected recovered, some losing the use of a + leg, or an arm, or an eye. + + Many similar circumstances might be mentioned relative to the + numerous villages scattered about the extensive province of Haha, + all which shared the like, or a worse fate. Travelling through this + province after the plague had disappeared, I saw many ruins, which + had been flourishing villages before the plague. Making enquiry + concerning the population of these dismal remains of the +422 pestilence, I was informed, that one village contained six hundred + inhabitants; that only four had escaped. Others, which had + contained four and five hundred, had left seven or eight to lament + the calamities they had suffered. + + Whenever any families retired to the country, to avoid the + infection; on returning to town, when apparently all infection had + disappeared, they were generally attacked, and died. The + destruction of the human species in the province of Upper and + LowerSuse was much greater than elsewhere. The capital city of this + province (Tarodant) lost, when the infection was at its _acmé_, + about eight hundred each day; the city of Marocco lost one thousand + each day; the cities of Old and New Fas from twelve to fifteen + hundred each day; insomuch, that, in these large towns, the + mortality was such, that the living had not time to bury the dead: + they were therefore thrown altogether into large holes, which were + covered over when full of dead bodies. + + Young and healthy robust persons were generally attacked first; + then women and children; lastly, thin, sickly, and old people. + _After the plague had totally subsided, we saw men, who had been + common labourers, enjoying their thousands, and keeping horses, + without knowing how to ride them. Provisions became extremely + cheap, for the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + had nobody now to own them. Day-labour increased enormously. Never +423 was equality in the human species more evident than at this time_. + _When corn was to be ground, or bread made, both were done in the + houses of the rich, and prepared by themselves; for the very few + poor people whom the plague had spared were insufficient for the + wants of the affluent, and they were consequently obliged to work + for themselves_. The country being now depopulated, vast tribes of + Arabs from the Desert poured into Suse and Draha; settling + themselves on the river Draha and in Suse, and wherever they found + little or no population. + + The symptoms of the disorder varied in different patients; in some + it manifested itself by a sudden shivering, in others by delirium, + succeeded by a violent thirst. Cold water was drank eagerly by the + imprudent, and generally proved fatal. Some had one, two, or three, + some more biles, generally in the groin, under the arm, or near the + breast; some had more. Some had no biles, nor any outward + disfiguration; these were invariably carried off in less than + twenty-four hours. I recommended Mr. Baldwin's remedy[235], applied + according to his directions; and I do not know one instance of its + failing, when properly applied, and sufficiently persevered in. + + [Footnote 235: Of unction of the body with olive oil.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy, which has been ravaging Spain + lately, is the same disorder with the one above described. We have + been told that it was communicated originally to Spain by two +424 infected persons, who went from Tangier to Estapona, and eluded the + vigilance of the guards. We have been assured that it was + communicated by some persons infected, who landed in Spain from a + vessel that had loaded produce at Laraich, in West Barbary. We have + also been informed that a Spanish privateer, which had occasion to + land its crew for water in some part of West Barbary, caught the + infection, and afterwards went to Cadiz and communicated it to the + town. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + _Death of Mungo Park_. + + May, 1812. + + The doubts which may have existed of the fate of this eminent man + are now removed, by the certain accounts lately received from + Goree, of his having perished, through the hostility of the + natives, on one of the branches of the Niger. The particulars have + been transmitted to Sir Joseph Banks, by Governor Maxwell, of + Goree, who received them from Isaco[236], a Moor, sent inland by + the Governor, for the purpose of enquiry. In a letter to Mr. + Dickson, of Covent-garden, brother-in-law to Mr. Park, Sir Joseph + thus writes:-- + + "I have read Isaco's translated journal; by which it appears, that +425 the numerous European retinue of Mungq Park quickly and miserably + died, leaving, at the last, only himself and a Mr. Martyn. + Proceeding on their route, they stopped at a settlement, from + which, according to custom, they sent a present to the chief whose + territory they were next to pass. This present having been + treacherously withheld, the chief considered it, in the travellers, + as a designed injury and neglect. _On their approaching, in a + canoe, he assembled his people on a narrow channel of rocks[237], + and assailed them so violently with arrows, that some of the rowers + were killed_. This caused Mr. Park and Mr. Martyn to make an effort + by swimming to reach the shore; in which attempt they both were + drowned. The canoe shortly afterwards sunk, and only one hired + native escaped. Every appurtenance also of the travellers was lost + or destroyed, except a sword-belt which had belonged to Mr. Martyn, + and which Isaco redeemed, and brought with him to Goree." + + [Footnote 236: Isaco was a Jew, not a Moor.--J.G.J.] + + [Footnote 237: There is a remarkable confirmation of this + quotation from Sir Joseph's letter in Mr. _Jackson's_ + translation of the Arabic manuscript of Mungo Park's death, for + which see Bowdich's Account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480.; + also Annals of Oriental Literature, No. I.] + + _Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of + Africa_. + + May, 1812. + + The young German gentleman of the name of Rontgen, who left England +426 about a twelve-month since for Africa, in order to prosecute + discoveries in the interior of that country, has, it is said, been + murdered by the Arabs, before he had proceeded any great distance + from Mogodor, where he spent some time perfecting himself in the + Arabic language. He was a promising young man, and an enthusiast in + the cause in which he was lost, and supposed to understand the + Arabic language better than any European who ever before entered + Africa. At an early age he formed the plan of going to that + country, and gave up his connections and a competency in Germany, + to prosecute his intentions. His father was a character well known + in Europe, who raised himself from obscurity to the greatest + celebrity by his talent for mechanics. He was at one time worth a + million, but was ruined by the French revolution. + + _The following Letter from James Willis, Esq. late Consul to + Senigambia, is extracted from the Gentleman's Magazine for May, + 1812_. + + COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. + + May 5. 1812. + + At a time when our ancient rivals and enemies are exerting all + their powers to destroy the British commerce, and have nearly + effected their gigantic schemes of cutting off all communication + between Great Britain and the various ports, states, and kingdoms + of Europe; at such a time when we are in imminent danger of losing +427 the markets of a quarter of the globe, it becomes essentially + important to discover other channels for our commerce, and other + markets for our manufactures. + + In this point of view, the information lately communicated to the + public by Mr. James Grey Jackson, in his "Travels in Africa," + becomes highly interesting to the statesman as well as to the + merchant. From the account which he has given of the city of + Timbuctoo, and its commercial relations, there is great reason to + conclude, that if we could find means to open and maintain a safe + and easy communication with that great emporium, and with the rich, + fertile, and populous regions in its vicinity, we might acquire a + market for our manufactures, that would in time compensate for the + loss of that of Europe. + + In the warehouses of Timbuctoo, are accumulated the manufactures of + India and of Europe; and from thence the immense population that + dwells upon the banks of the Niger is supplied. There is no doubt + that we could furnish the articles they want, upon much lower terms + than they can obtain them at present; and, in return, we should + furnish the best market they could have for their gold, ivory, + gums, and other rich products, and raw materials. + + Now, it certainly appears to me, and I think it must appear to + every man who takes the trouble of investigating the subject, that, + provided Government would give proper support to the enterprise, + this important communication might easily be established. _For this +428 purpose, nothing more is necessary than to take a fortified station + upon the African coast, somewhere about the 29th degree of north + latitude, near the confines of the Marocco dominions, to serve as a + safe magazine or emporium for merchandize. From this station it + would be easy to maintain a direct correspondence with the opulent + merchants of Timbuctoo; regular caravans might be established to + depart at fixed periods; the protection of the Arabs can at all + times be purchased at stipulated prices, which may be considered as + premiums of insurance, or as a tax for convoy_, and thus in a + little time these caravans might carry out merchandize, to and from + Timbuctoo, with as much regularity and safety, and with less + expense, than our fleets convey our goods to and from the West + Indies. + + The expense of such a fortified station as is here proposed, would + be very moderate, in comparison with the advantages it would + produce; and it would be easy to draw out a plan for it; but I do + not think it would be proper to go into a detail here,--_"non est + hic locus."_ + + It has been well observed, that commerce is the key of Africa; and + I shall only add, that if the plan I have suggested were carried + into execution, these interesting regions of Africa, that have + heretofore baffled the attempts of curiosity and enterprise, and + remained for so many ages a "sealed book" to the inhabitants of + Europe, would soon be explored and laid open. This is an object +429 that cannot be indifferent to a prince, who has so evidently + evinced a desire to patronise science, and who is undoubtedly + desirous to encourage, to facilitate, and to increase, still + further the vast geographical discoveries which have added such + lustre to the reign of his august father. + + To return to Mr. Jackson's book. This work contains, besides the + information that more directly concerns the statesman and the + merchant, much interesting matter for the natural and moral + philosopher, as well as for the general reader. The author makes no + pretension to fine writing; his style is plain, unaffected, and + perspicuous, and there is as much new, authentic, and important + matter in the book, as in the hands of the French writers of + African travels, (Golberry, Vaillant, and Savary, for instance,) + would have been spread over three times the space. Upon the whole, + it is the most valuable work of the kind that has appeared for many + years. I hope the author will reap the reward which his labours + have so well deserved. + + JAMES WILLIS. + + _Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called + Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in + Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication + between Timbuctoo and Egypt_. + + Sir, + + The venomous spider (_Tendaraman_). This beautiful reptile is + somewhat similar to a hornet in size and colour, but of a rounder +430 form; its legs are about an inch long, black, and very strong; it + has two bright yellow lines, latitudinally crossing its back; it + forms its web octagonally between bushes, the diameter being two or + three yards; it places itself in the centre of its web, which is so + fine, as to be almost invisible, and attaches to whatever may pass + between those bushes. It is said to make always towards the head, + before it inflicts its deadly wound. In the cork forests, the + sportsman, eager in his pursuit of game, frequently carries away on + his garments the _tenderaman_, whose bite is so poisonous, that the + patient survives but a few hours. + + Charmers of serpents (_Aisawie_).--These _Aisawie_ have a + considerable sanctuary at Fas. They go to Suse in large bodies + about the month of July to collect serpents, which they pretend to + render harmless by a certain form of words, incantation, or + invocation to _Seedy ben Aisah_, their tutelary saint. They have an + annual feast, at which time they dance and shake their heads + quickly, during a certain period, till they become giddy, when they + run about the towns frantic, attacking any person that may have a + black or dark dress on; they bite, scratch, and devour any thing + that comes in their way. They will attack an _unjumma_, or portable + fire, and tear the lighted charcoal to pieces with their hands and + mouths. I have seen them take the serpents, which they carry about, + and devour them alive, the blood streaming down their clothes. The +431 incredible accounts of their feats would fill a volume; the + following observations may suffice to give the reader an idea of + these extraordinary fanatics. The _buska_ and the [238]_el effah_ + are enticed out of their holes by them; they handle them with + impunity, though their bite is ascertained to be mortal; they put + them into a cane basket, and throw it over their shoulders: these + serpents they carry about the country, and exhibit them to the + people. I have seen them play with them, and suffer them to twist + round their bodies in all directions, without receiving any injury + from them. I have often enquired how they managed to do this, but + never could get any direct or satisfactory answer; they assure you, + however, that faith in their saint, and the powerful influence of + the name of the divinity, (_Isim Allah_,) enables them to work + these miracles: they maintain themselves in a miserable way, by + donations from the spectators before whom they exhibit. This art of + fascinating serpents was known by the ancient Africans, as appears + from the _Marii_ and _Psilii_, who were Africans, and showed proofs + of it at Rome. + + [Footnote 238: For a description of these deadly serpents, see + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. chapter on Zoology.] + + _Bu Telleese Nyctalopia_.--This ophthalmic disease is little known + in the northern provinces; but in Suse and Sahara it prevails. A + defect of vision comes on at dusk, but without pain; the patient is +432 deprived of sight, so that he cannot see distinctly, even with the + assistance of candles. During my residence at Agadeer, a cousin of + mine was dreadfully afflicted with this troublesome disease, losing + his sight at evening, and continuing in that state till the rising + sun. A Deleim Arab, a famous physician, communicated to me a + sovereign remedy, which being extremely simple, I had not + sufficient faith in his prescription to give it a trial, till + reflecting that the simplicity of the remedy was such as to + preclude the possibility of its being injurious, it was applied + inwardly; and twelve hours afterwards, to my astonishment, the + boy's eyes were perfectly well, and continued so during twenty-one + days, when I again had recourse to the same remedy, and it effected + a cure, on one administration, during thirty days, when it again + attacked him; the remedy was again applied with the same beneficial + effect as before. + + _Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia, or Night + Blindness_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA.) + + Sir, + + Having read your animadversions on the additional matter introduced + in my second edition of an "Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo," &c. + (see Literary Panorama for April last, p. 713.) wherein you +433 conceive that I am reprehensible for not having discovered publicly + the remedy alluded to as an infallible cure to the _Butellise_ or + _Nyctalopia_, I should observe that I was not apprised, (till I + read those animadversions,) that this was a disorder incident to + the inhabitants in Europe, or that it affected our seamen on the + Mediterranean station. But, if that be the case, and it should be + found expedient and beneficial to the interests of Great Britain, + that this remedy should be divulged for the alleviation of our + meritorious seamen in His Majesty's service, I am willing to make + the discovery to any respectable medical man who may be appointed + by Government as physician or surgeon on the Mediterranean station. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + May 18. 1812. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA. + + Circus, Minories, June 21. 1815. + + Sir, + + I request you will contradict in your next publication the + assertion of my _decease_, which is calculated to injure + considerably my interests abroad as a merchant. (Vide your Review + of Parke's Travels, page 377.) In answer to this unfounded + information, which has been propagated in your review of last + month, I have to acquaint you that I am not only in the land of the + living, but in excellent health, and waiting to hear the testimony +434 of some stranger or European traveller (since the Africans are not + to be relied on), who shall establish the fact of _the junction of + the Nile of Sudan with that of Egypt; or at least, the + approximation of these two mighty streams_. And notwithstanding + _the_ insidious reflections and censures passed on the native + Africans, from whom I gathered much of the information communicated + to the public in my account of Marocco, it must be allowed by all + liberal-minded men, that a native is more likely to give an + accurate account of his country than a foreigner; and a residence + of sixteen years in a country may be allowed to give a man of + common observation experience enough to select judiciously such + intelligence as might be relied on; and I have no hesitation in + declaring it to be my unalterable opinion, that _so soon as a + traveller shall have returned from the interior of Africa, many of + my assertions respecting those regions will be confirmed_, and that + information founded on the testimony of unprejudiced and + disinterested Africans, will be found not so contemptible as some + learned persons have imagined. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. +435 + + _Critical Observations on Abstracts from the Travels of Ali Bey, + and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, + and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, + Vol. I. No. II. page 264_. + + London, Dec. 19. 1817. + + In the discussion on Aly Bey's Travels, in the Journal of Science + and the Arts, above mentioned, p. 270. are the following words:-- + + "Aly Bey has added, in a separate chapter, all the information he + received, respecting a mediterranean sea, from a merchant of + Marocco, of the name of Sidi Matte Buhlal, who had resided many + years at Timbuctoo, and in other countries of Sudan or Nigritia, + the most material of which was, that Tombut is a large town, very + trading, and inhabited by Moors and Negroes, and was at the same + distance from the Nile Abid, (or Nile of the Negroes, or Niger,) as + Fez is from Wed Sebu, that is to say, _about three hundred English + miles_." + + As this passage is quoted from Aly Bey, by the first literary + society of Great Britain, and is, therefore, calculated to create a + doubt of the accuracy of what I have said, respecting the distance + of the Nile El Abeed from Timbuctoo, in the enlarged editions of my + account of Marocco, &c. page 297. I consider it a duty which I owe +436 to my country and to myself, not to let this sentence pass through + the press without submitting to the public my observations on the + subject. + + Sidi Matte Buhlal is a native of Fas: the name is properly Sidi El + Mattie Bû Hellal. This gentleman is one out of twenty authorities + from whom I derived the information recorded in my account of + Marocco, respecting Timbuctoo and the interior of Africa; his whole + family, which is respectable and numerous, are among the first + Timbuctoo merchants that have their establishments at Fas. I + should, however, add, that among the many authorities from whom I + derived my information relative to Timbuctoo, there were two + muselmen in particular,--merchants of respectability and + intelligence, who came from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, soon after _I + opened that port to Dutch commerce, in the capacity of agent of + Holland, by order of the then Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid_, + brother and predecessor of the present Emperor Soliman. These two + gentlemen had resided at Timbuctoo, and in other parts of Sudan, + fifteen years, trading during the whole of that period with + Darbeyta, on the coast of the Red Sea, with Jinnie, Housa, Wangara, + Cashna, and other countries of the interior, from whom, and from + others, equally intelligent and credible, I procured my information + respecting the _mediterranean sea in the interior of Africa, called + El Bahar Assudan, i.e. the Sea of Sudan_, situated fifteen days' +437 journey east of Timbuctoo. These two muselmen merchants had amassed + considerable fortunes at Timbuctoo, and were on their journey to + Fas, their native place; but in consequence of a civil war at that + time raging throughout West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Haha, through which it was indispensable that they should pass, + on their way to Fas, they sojourned with me two months; after which + they departed for Fas with a caravan. + + These intelligent Moors gave me much information respecting + Timbuctoo, and the interior countries where they had resided; they + sold me many articles of Sudanic manufacture, among which were + three pieces of fine cotton cloth, manufactured at Timbuctoo, and + some ornaments of pure gold _in or molu_, of exquisite workmanship, + of the manufacture of Jinnie; one of these pieces of Timbuctoo + manufacture, of cotton interwoven with silk, of a square + blue-and-white pattern, dyed with _indigo of Timbuctoo_, I had the + honour to present to the British Museum, in April, 1796[239], where + it is now deposited. + + [Footnote 239: This piece of cloth, about two yards wide and + five long, I had the honour of offering to Sir Joseph Banks, + who declined receiving it; but at the same time suggested that + it was a manufacture deserving public notice, and would be + considered an acceptable present by the British Museum.] + + I have been led into this digression from certain insinuations that + have been[240] insidiously propagated, reflecting on the accuracy +438 of my statements respecting the interior of Africa; and I must add, + that I always have felt, and still feel confident, that in + proportion as we shall become more acquainted with the interior of + this unexplored continent, my account will be so much the more + authenticated: my confidence in this opinion, (however dogmatical + it may appear,) is founded on the original and intelligent sources + of my information; on a long residence and general acquaintance + with all the principal inhabitants of West Barbary, whose + connections lay in Sudan, and at Timbuctoo; in a competent + knowledge and practical acquaintance with the languages of North + Africa, and a consequent ability to discriminate the accuracy of + the sources of my intelligence. + + [Footnote 240: See my letter to the editor of the Monthly + Magazine, for March, 1817; page 125.] + + This being premised, I now proceed to offer to the public my + animadversions on the above quotation from the Journal of Science + and the Arts. + + I have actually crossed the Wed Sebu, or the River Sebu, alluded to + in the above quotation, which passes through the Berebber Kabyl of + Zimure Shelleh; I have crossed the same river several times at the + city of Mequinez, and also at Meheduma, where it enters the + Atlantic Ocean, in lat. 34° 15' north, and from this experimental + knowledge of the course of that river, I can affirm, with + confidence, that it is not inaccurately laid down in my map of West + Barbary[241], and that it is not three hundred English miles from +439 Fas, but only six English miles from that city. I can also assert, + from incontestable testimony, that Tombut, or Timbuctoo, is[242] + not three hundred miles from the Nile El Abeed, but only about + twelve English miles from that stream, the latter being south of + the town. + + [Footnote 241: For which see page 55.] + + [Footnote 242: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 297.] + + Respecting the following passage in the above quoted Journal of + Science and the Arts, p. 272, "This river contains the fierce + animals called _Tzemsah_, which devour men," I shall only observe, + that _Tzemsah_ is the word in Arabic which denominates the + _crocodile_. Farther on, in the same page, we have the words,--"We + must suppose that the Joliba makes at this spot a strange winding, + which gives to the inhabitants of Marocco the opinion they + express." This supposed winding is actually asserted to exist, and + is denominated by the Arabs[243] _El Kose Nile_, i.e. the arch or + curve of the Nile, and is situated between the cities of Timbuctoo + and Jinnie. + + [Footnote 243: Idem, note, p. 305.] + + I should here adduce some further testimony respecting the course + of the Nile El Abeed; but as the quotation from Aly Bey in the + above Journal of Sciences and the Arts, page 271. asserts it to be + towards the east, and again, in page 272. declares it to be towards + the west, such incoherence, I presume, requires no confutation. I + consider that it originates from Moorish inaccuracy. +440 + The _La Mar Zarak_ of Adams, if any such river exists, may be a + corruption of _Sagea el Humra_, i.e. the Red Stream, a river in the + southern confines of Sahara, nearly in the same longitude with + Timbuctoo. This river the late Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid, + announced as the southern boundary of his dominions; but from the + accounts which I have had of it, it was not of that magnitude which + Adams ascribes to the Mar Zarak, nor was it precisely in the + neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, when I was a resident in South Barbary: + rivers, however, _which pass through sandy or desert districts_, + often change their courses in the space of twenty-four hours, by + the drifting of the moving sands impelled by the wind; instances of + which I have myself often witnessed. + + If this river proceeded from the Desert, it might have had the name + of _El Bahar Sahara_, i.e. the River of Sahara; the word _La Mar_ + is a lingua franca, or corrupt Spanish word, signifying the sea, + and might have been used to this poor sailor by a native to make it + the more intelligible to him. Many Spanish words having crept into + the Arabic vocabulary, and are occasionally used by those Africans + who have had intercourse with Europeans. + +441 The next passage for animadversion is as follows:-- + + "The state in which he represented Timbuctoo, and its being the + residence of a Negro sovereign, instead of a muselman." + + The state in which he has represented Timbuctoo, is, I think, + extremely inaccurate; and being a slave, it is more than probable, + that he was placed in a Fondaque[244], or Caravansera, belonging to + the King, which he _mistook_ for his palace; but that his narrative + should be deemed inaccurate, because he has described the town of + Timbuctoo to be under the sovereignty of a Negro prince, is to me + incomprehensible. + + [Footnote 244: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocoo, &c. + p. 298.] + + The various sources of information that I have investigated, + uniformly declare that sovereign to be a Negro, and that his name + in the year 1800, was Woolo. This account, it appears, is confirmed + by Adams, who says,[245] Woolo was King of Timbuctoo in 1810, and + that he was then old and grey-headed. Some years after the above + period, Riley's Narrative, epitomised in Leyden's Discoveries and + Travels in Africa, vol. i., _speaking of the King of Timbuctoo, + says, this sovereign is a very large, old, grey-headed black man_, + called _Shegar_, which means Sultan. This, however, I must observe + is a misinterpretation of the word _Shegar_, which is an + African-Arabic word, and signifies _red or carrotty_, and is a word + applicable to his physiognomy; but certainly not to his rank:--_Abd +442 Shegar_, a carrotty or red Negro. If these two testimonies, since + 1800, be correct, then the _anachronism_ of which I am accused in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, (title Africa,) + is misapplied. + + [Footnote 245: Since publishing this letter, Mr. Bowdich, in + his Account of Ashantee, pages 194, 195, says, Woolo was King + of Timbuctoo in 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bowdich was at + Ashantee.] + + Many of this king's civil officers, however, in 1800, were + muselmen; but the military were altogether Negroes. + + However fervent the zeal of Muhamedanism may be at Timbuctoo, it is + not, I imagine, sufficient to convert the Negroes, who have not the + best opinion of the Muhamedan tenets. The Negroes, however, are + disposed to abjure idolatry for any other form of religion that + they can be persuaded to think preferable, or that holds out a + better prospect; a convincing proof of which has been seen by the + readiness of the Africans of Congo and Angola, to renounce their + idolatry for the Christian faith, by the conversion of thousands to + that faith by the indefatigable zeal of the catholic missionaries, + when the Portuguese first discovered those countries, and which, if + the Sovereign of Portugal had persevered with that laudable zeal + with which he began to promote the conversion of the Africans, the + inhabitants of those extensive and populous countries might, at + this day, have been altogether members of the Christian church!! +443 + _On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, + or of Sudan_. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.[246] + + [Footnote 246: Inserted in March, 1817.] + + Sir, + + London, Jan. 25. 1817. + + Having read some annotations, in the Journal of a Mission to the + Interior of Africa, by Mungo Park, in 1805, which are calculated to + persuade some persons, that my Account of the Interior of Africa is + not altogether authentic, I feel myself called upon to offer some + cursory observations to the public, in refutation of those + aspersions. (Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Mungo Park's Second Journey, + in 1805, pages 114. and 115.) + + Although I assert, on the concurrent testimony of the best informed + and most intelligent natives of Sudan, that there exists a + [247]water communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, I do not + maintain that the [248]Nile of Sudan falls into the [249]Nile of + Egypt, but that it hath a communication with it, or with some river +444 that connects itself with the Nile of Egypt, which opinion is + confirmed by Mr. Hornemann, on African authority. + + [Footnote 247: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 310.] + + [Footnote 248: (_Nile el Kabeer_) the Great Nile, (_Bahar el + Abeed_, or _Nile el Abeed_) the Nile of Slaves or Negroes, + (_Nile Sudan_) the Nile of Sudan or Nigritia, are the various + names applied to the river that passes by Timbuctoo, and + through the interior of Sudan, from west to east.] + + [Footnote 249: _Nile Masser_ is the name applied to the Nile of + Egypt.] + + It is very probable that this junction is formed by a stream that + flows westward towards Wangara through the country called [250] + Bahar Kulla, and Lake Dwi, from the source of the Nile of Egypt, or + from that part of the Jibbel Kumri, or Lunar Mountains, which form + the southern boundary of Donga. + + If this be so, the junction of the Nile el Abeed, of Timbuctoo, and + the Bahar el Aheäd of Donga[251], (or more properly the Bahar el + Abeed,) is established, and the water communication between + Timbuctoo and Cairo is proved; admitting, however, that the Negroes + reported by me to have performed the[252] voyage by water, took + their boat or canoe ashore, to ascend the cataracts, in the country + between Wangara and Donga. + + [Footnote 250: _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic term, signifying the + sea altogether, implying an alluvial country, (probably forming + a part of the mediterranean sea of central Africa). See Major + Rennel's Map in the Proceedings of the African Association, + vol. i. 8vo. page 209. lat. N. 10°, long. 18°.] + + [Footnote 251: Vide Major Kennel's Map in the Proceedings of + the African Association, 8vo. edition, vol. i. page 209.] + + [Footnote 252: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 312.] + + Mr. Park's annotator, in the spirit of controversy with which he + appears to be endued, may say, the fact of this stream running to +445 the west towards Wangara, cannot be admitted, because Mr. Browne + saw a ridge of mountains extending in that direction; but Mr. + Browne did not ascertain that this was an uninterrupted ridge; the + river might therefore pass through some chasm similar to that which + I have seen in crossing the Atlas Mountains, or through some + intermediate plain. + + The annotator further says[253], "It is needless to comment upon + such hearsay statements, received from an African traveller." This + assertion being calculated to impress on the public mind, that I + founded my hypothesis respecting the junction of the Niles of + Africa on the simple and single statement of one individual African + traveller; I feel it incumbent on me thus publicly to declare, that + _the junction alluded to is founded on the universal and concurrent + testimony of all the most intelligent and well informed native + African travellers_ (for the most part natives of Sudan), not one + of whom differed in this opinion, but unanimously declared it to be + an uncontroverted fact, that the waters of the Nile of Egypt joined + the waters of the Nile el Abeed, which passes near Timbuctoo to the + east; and that there exists, without a doubt, a water communication + between Cairo in Egypt, and Timbuctoo in Sudan. Now, if, as M. de + Bailly observes, "_la vérité se fait connaître par le concours des +446 témoignages_," it must be admitted, by men of liberal sentiments, + that it is somewhat more than a hearsay statement; and what better + foundation can there possibly be for the truth of any geological + fact, than the concurrent testimony of the best-informed natives of + the country described? + + [Footnote 253: Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Park's Second Journey + page 115.] + + With respect to precision being unfavourable to authenticity[254], + I consider this a new dogma; and if I were disposed to confute it, + (but it carries with it its own confutation,) I should point out + many hearsay evidences, precisely recorded in my Account of + Marocco, which have been confirmed already by Ali Bey (El Abassy) + and many others; but "_non est hic locus_." + + J.G. JACKSON. + + [Footnote 254: Vide Appendix, No. II. to Park's Second Journey + page 103.] + + _Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of + Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of + Marocco, &c._ + + London, 16th Jan, 1818. + + It is a satisfaction to perceive (after a lapse of eight or nine + years since the publication of my account of Marocco and the + interior of Africa), that in proportion as we are becoming better + acquainted with the interior of that continent, my account becomes + more authenticated, notwithstanding the attempts that have been so +447 insidiously made to invalidate it. + + The various hypotheses, for the most part founded in theory, that + have within the last seven years, been adopted respecting the + course of the _Nile el Abeed_ (Niger), are beginning now to fall to + the ground, and the learned and judicious editor of the Supplement + to the New Encyclopedia Britannica, founding his opinions, as it + should seem, upon the facts that have been corroborated respecting + the interior of Africa, has actually adopted my opinion;[255] viz. + + That there is an union of waters between the Nile of Egypt, and + that of Sudan[256]; where the common receptacle is, I have not + ventured to declare, but it is probable that it may be in the Bahar + Kulla[257], in Wangara, or in the [258]Sea of Sudan; the opinion + that the junction is formed in the Sea of Sudan is supported by the + Shereef Imhammed, who saw the Nile at Cashna, and declared that it + was so rapid there from east to west, that vessels could not stem + it. + + [Footnote 255: See my letter to the Editor of the Monthly + Magazine, vol. xliii. March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 256: It is incorrect to say, that the word _Nile_ is + applied, in Africa, to any great river: the name, I can with + confidence declare, is never applied to any river in North + Africa, except the Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan; whoever + has propagated this opinion has mistaken the matter altogether. + See Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. page 540.] + + [Footnote 257: See Major Rennell's Map of North Africa, lat. + north 6°, long, west 18°, &c.] + + [Footnote 258: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 310.] + +448 Again: Parke's intelligence, in his second journey, demonstrates an + union of waters in the (Baseafeena[259]) Sea of Sudan; for he says, + the current was said to be sometimes one way, and sometimes + another; which I will take the liberty to interpret thus:-- + + That the current from the Eastern Nile, was westward into the Sea + of Sudan, and the current of the Western Nile was eastward into the + same sea of Sudan: thus the current would be sometimes one way, and + sometimes another, making the Sea of Sudan the common receptacle + for the Eastern as well as for the Western Nile. + + Ptolemy's Sea of Nigritia is undoubtedly the same with my Sea of + Sudan; _Lybia Palus_[260] being the Latin denomination, as _Bahar + Sudan_ is the Arabic for the interior lake called the Sea of Sudan; + but whether this sea of Sudan will ultimately prove to be + situated[261] as I have described it, fifteen journies[262] east of + Timbuctoo, or 450 English miles, or as Ptolemy has described it, or + in the intermediate distance between the two extremes, must be left + for future travellers to ascertain. + + [Footnote 259: Another name for the Sea of Sudan, as will + hereafter appear.] + + [Footnote 260: See Ptolemy's Map of North Africa.] + + [Footnote 261: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, page + 310.] + + [Footnote 262: Fifteen journies horse travelling, which are the + journies here alluded to, at thirty miles a-day, is 450 British + miles.] + + The enterprising and indefatigable, the patient and persevering + genius of Burkhardt, deriving incalculable advantages from a long +449 residence in the eastern regions of Africa, may probably decree him + to be the person to clear up this long-contested geographical + point, unless the fascination of Arabian manners, or some Utopia in + the interior regions of that continent, should wean him from the + desire to re-visit his native country. + + This intelligence of Park may be considered some corroboration of + what I have maintained respecting the union of waters between the + Eastern and Western Niles.[263] + + The following testimonies are some confirmation of my report + respecting decked vessels, &c. in the interior of Africa.[264] + + Dr. Stetzen, a German physician residing at Alexandria[265], says, + that he has received intelligence from a pilgrim, on his way to + Mecca, a native of _Ber Noh,_ or _Bernou_[266], that the river + within a mile of the city is as large as the Egyptian Nile, and + overflows its banks; _it is navigated by vessels of considerable + dimensions, carrying sails and oars._ + + [Footnote 263: See Monthly Magazine, March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 264: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + page 309.] + + [Footnote 265: For full particulars, see New Supp. to Ency. + Brit. article "Africa."] + + [Footnote 266: This Bernou, or according to the Arabic + orthography, _Ber Noh_, is asserted by the Arabs to be the + birth-place of the Patriarch Noah.] + + Mr. Barnes states, that the Niger discharges itself into a large + lake; that he has heard from the Black traders that there are white +450 inhabitants upon the borders of this lake; and has been told, by + people who have seen them, that they dress in the style of Barbary + Moors, and wear turbans, but do not speak Arabic. See Report of + Committee of Council.[267] + + [Footnote 267: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p, 309.] + + Park, in his second journey, was informed, that "one month's travel + south of Baedo, through the kingdom of Grotto, will bring the + traveller to the country of the Christians, who have their houses + on the banks of the _Ba Seafeena_[268], which they describe as + incomparably larger than the lake Dehebby (Dibbie)."--This is + another corroboration of the accuracy of my account of the interior + of Africa; but before I dismiss this subject, I should observe, + that from the general ignorance of the African Arabic, an important + circumstance respecting this _Ba Seafeena_, is not yet (it appears) + discovered. It is this:--the words _Ba Seafeena_, or, according to + the correct Arabic orthography, _Bahar Sefeena_, literally + translated into English, signifies the Sea of Ships, and is + evidently only another name for the Sea of Sudan, declaring it to + be a sea wherein ships are found! + + [Footnote 268: See New Supp. to Ency. Brit. article "Africa."] + + Here then are two topographical facts first asserted by me, among + the moderns, to exist in the heart of Africa, and since confirmed + by Ali Bey, Park, and Dr. Sietzen, or, as the enlightened editor of + the Supplement to the New Encyclopedia Britt. observes, + +451 "We have thus three independent testimonies[269] from opposite + quarters, meeting exactly in the same point; nor does there, as far + as we know, exist any evidence _at all respectable_ to the + contrary." + + [Footnote 269: The testimonies here alluded to are Hornman, + Park, and Jackson.] + + It now remains for me to declare (that as opinions have been + industriously propagated tending to discredit my account of + Marocco, and the interior of Africa,) that nothing has been set + down therein, until I had previously investigated the + qualifications of the narrators, their means of knowledge, and + whether the respective vocations of the several narrators made it + their interest to disguise or misrepresent the truth of their + communications; and, after ascertaining these important points, I + have generally had recourse to other testimonies, and have seldom + recorded any thing until confirmed by three or four _concurrent_ + evidences: on this _pyramidical basis_ is founded the intelligence + in my account of Marocco, and of the interior of Africa, annexed to + that account. + + This assertion is to be understood in respect to intelligence that + I could not ascertain by ocular demonstration. + + Finally, my description of the black heartheaded serpent, called +452 Bouska[270], has been doubted; but a late traveller[271] has + confirmed the accuracy of my account; even of this extraordinary + animal.--In Riley's Narrative of his Shipwreck on the +453 Coast of Sahara is given an account of an exhibition by two + _Isawie_[272], who do not appear to have been adepts in the art of +454 fascinating these serpents; for I have frequently seen them manage +455 and charm the _Bouska_ much more adroitly than those who exhibited + at Rabat before Riley, although its bite is more deadly, and its + strength considerably greater, than that of the _El Effah!_ + + [Footnote 270: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 109.] + + [Footnote 271: "I paid two dollars for a station, and I looked + into the room without interruption. It was about twenty feet + long, and fifteen broad, paved with tiles and plastered within. + The windows had also been secured by an additional grating made + of wire, in such a manner as to render it impossible for the + serpents to escape from the room: it had but one door, and that + had a hole cut through it six or eight inches square: this hole + was also secured by a grating. In the room stood two men, who + appeared to be Arabs, with long bushy hair and beards; and I + was told they were a particular race of men, that could charm + serpents. + + "A wooden box, about four feet long and two wide, was placed + near the door, with a string fastened to a slide at one end of + it; this string went through a hole in the door. The two + serpent-eaters were dressed in haiks only, and those very small + ones. After they had gone through their religious ceremonies + most devoutly, they appeared to take an eternal farewell of + each other: this done, one of them retired from the room, and + shut the door tight after him. The Arab within seemed to be in + dreadful distress. I could observe his heart throb, and his + bosom heave most violently: and he cried out very loudly, + "_Allah houakiber_", three times; which is, as I understood it, + _God have mercy on me_.[273] + + "The Arab was at the farthest end of the room: at that instant + the cage was opened, and a serpent crept out slowly; he was: + about four feet long, and eight inches in circumference; his + colours were the most beautiful in nature, being bright, and + variegated with a deep yellow, a purple, a cream colour, black + and brown, spotted, &c. As soon as he saw the Arab in the room, + his eyes, which were small and green, kindled as with fire; he + erected himself in a second, his head two feet high; and + darting on the defenseless Arab, seized him between the folds + of his haik, just above his right hipbone, hissing most + horribly; the Arab gave a horrid shriek, when another serpent + came out of the cage. This last was black, very shining, and + appeared to be seven or eight feet long, but not more than two + inches in diameter: as soon as he had cleared the cage, he cast + his _red fiery eyes_ on his intended victim, thrust out his + forked tongue, _threw himself into a coil, erected his head, + which was in the centre of the coil_, three feet from the + floor, and flattening out the skin above his head and eyes, in + the form, and nearly of the size of a human heart, and + springing like lightning on the Arab, struck its fangs into his + neck near the jugular vein, while his tail and body flew round + his neck and arms in two or three folds. The Arab set up the + most hideous and piteous yelling, foamed and frothed at the + mouth, grasping the folds of the serpent, which were round his + arms with his right hand, and seemed to be in the greatest + agony, striving to tear the reptile from around his neck, while + with his left he seized hold of it near its head, but could not + break its hold: by this time the other had turned itself around + his legs, and kept biting all around the other parts of his + body, making apparently deep incisions: the blood, issuing from + every wound (both in his neck and body,) streamed all over his + haik and skin. My blood was chilled in my veins with horror at + this sight, and it was with difficulty my legs would support my + frame. + + "Notwithstanding the Arab's greatest exertions to tear away the + serpents with his hands, they turned themselves still tighter, + stopped his breath, and he fell to the floor, where he + continued for a moment, as if in the most inconceivable agony, + rolling over, and covering every part of his body with his own + blood and froth, until he ceased to move, and appeared to have + expired. In his last struggle, he had wounded the black serpent + with his teeth, as it was striving, as it were, to force its + head into his mouth, which wound Footnote: seemed to increase + its rage. At this instant I heard the shrill sound of a + whistle, and looking towards the door saw the other Arab + applying a call to his mouth: the serpents listened to the + music, their fury seemed to forsake them by degrees, they + disengaged themselves leisurely from the apparently lifeless + carcase, and creeping towards the cage, they soon entered it, + and were immediately fastened in. + + "The door of the apartment was now opened, and he without ran + to assist his companion: he had a phial of blackish liquor in + one hand, and an iron chissel in the other: finding the teeth + of his companion set, he thrust in the chissel, forced them + open, and then poured a little of the liquor into his mouth; + and holding the lips together, applied his mouth to the dead + man's nose, and filled his lungs with air: he next anointed his + numerous wounds with a little of the same liquid, and yet no + sign of life, appeared. I thought he was dead in earnest; his + neck and veins were exceedingly swollen; when his comrade + taking up the lifeless trunk in his arms, brought it out into + the open air, and continued the operation of blowing for + several minutes before a sign of life appeared; at length he + gasped, and after a time recovered so far as to be able to + speak. The swellings in his neck, body, and legs gradually + subsided, as they continued washing the wounds with clear cold + water and a sponge, and applying the black liquor occasionally; + a clean haik was wrapped about him, but his strength seemed so + far exhausted that he could not support himself standing, so + his comrade laid him on the ground by a wall, where he sunk + into a sleep. This exhibition lasted for about a quarter of an + hour from the time the serpents were let loose until they were + called off, and it was more than an hour from that time before + he could speak. I thought I could discover that the poisonous + fangs had been pulled out of these formidable serpents' jaws, + and mentioned that circumstance to the showman, who said, that + they had indeed been extracted; and when I wished to know how + swellings on his neck and other parts could be assumed, he + assured me, that though their deadly fangs were out, yet that + the poisonous quality of their breath and spittle would cause + the death of those they attack; that after a bite from either + of these serpents, no man could exist longer than fifteen + minutes: and that there was no remedy for any but those _who + were endowed by the Almighty with power to charm, and to manage + them_; and that he and his associates were of that favoured + number! The Moors and Arabs call the thick and beautiful + serpent _El Effah_, and the long black and heartheaded one _El + Bouskah_. + + "I afterwards saw engravings of these two serpents in + _Jackson's Marocco_; which are very correct resemblances. They + are said to be very numerous on and about the south foot of the + Atlas mountains and border of the Desert, where these were + caught when young, and where they often attack both men and + beasts."--Vide _Riley's Shipwreck and Captivity in the Great + Desert_, p. 550.] + + [Footnote 272: Disciples of Seedy ben Isa, whose sanctuary is + at Fas, and who possess the art of fascinating serpents.] + + [Footnote 273: N.B. This is a misinterpretation of the Arabic + words here used, which, literally translated, signify, _God + alone, is great!_--J.G.J.] + + _Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE, INSERTED MAY, 1818.) + + Sir, + + Bennet's-hill, Feb. 1818. + + I should be much surprised to find that Jackson's account of what + he has heard is doubted, if I did not remember that Bruce's account +456 of what he had seen was disbelieved. Nothing human can appear to me + more deserving of implicit credit than the intelligence the former + of these writers gives respecting Timbuctoo. He has not seen it, it + is true. I have not seen Lisbon; but, if I had, and were to sit + down to write an account of it, some things would be necessary to + be described, with regard to which I should feel a degree of + uncertainty; and, having given an account of Lisbon, if I were to + visit it again, I should find others on which I had been mistaken. + But let me arrange in my own mind the information I want respecting + Lisbon; let me make enquiries of twenty intelligent persons who + have resided there; let me carefully compare their different + accounts, and who shall doubt the accuracy of the result? + + Mr. Jackson has had an opportunity of acquiring information + respecting Timbuctoo that no other European ever had, by having the + direction of commerce in a city frequented by Timbuctan merchants; + a city, the port of which is called, in Arabic, _Bab Sudan_, the + Gate of Sudan. Mr. Jackson was qualified to make use of this + advantage to an extent that no other European ever was, by a + practical, and even critical knowledge of the general language of + the country,--the African Arabic. To these Mr. Jackson added an + ardent spirit of research, an industry which neglected no + opportunity, a caution to compare, a judgment to discriminate, and +457 a firmness to decide. Who, that weighs these things, can doubt the + accuracy of his intelligence respecting Sudan? I even regard his + orthography as the standard of correctness, and am surprised that + any person should continue to write Timbuctoo instead of Timbuctoo, + or Fez instead of Fas. + + I am inclined to believe that Adams has been at Timbuctoo, though I + do not consider it as proved; but, supposing that he has, and that + I wished to become acquainted with that city, would I apply for + information to an illiterate slave, who was confined within narrow + precincts? Or would I rely upon the united testimony of twenty + persons of education, who had each a wider field of observation? + + I have read "Jackson's Account of Marocco" twice through, at + different periods, with great attention; and I do most heartily + join in the confidence expressed by the enlightened and judicious + author, that, in proportion as the interior of Africa shall be more + known, the truth of his account of it will be made evident. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Hints for the Civilisation of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce_. + + March 16, 1818. + + Algiers, and the territory belonging to it, is governed by despotic + Turks, the refuse of the Ottoman troops; who maintain their power +458 over the Moors and Arabs of the plains (who are the cultivators of + the country), and over the Berebbers (who are the aborigines of the + country), or inhabitants of the mountains of Atlas, which terminate + this sovereignty on the south, and divide Algiers from + Bled-al-Jereed. The first principle of this barbarous and + sanguinary government, according io an African adage, is to + "_Maintain the arm of power, by making streams qf blood flow, + without intermission, around the throne!_" This country,--the + government of which reflects disgrace on Christendom, which has + been, during many ages the scourge of Christian mariners, and of + all who navigate the Mediterranean Sea,--has often been conquered. + The Romans reduced Numidia and Mauritania into Roman provinces. + This beautiful garden of the world was afterwards conquered by the + Vandals; then by the Greeks, during the reign of Justinian, under + Belisarius; and, finally, three times by the Arabs, viz. in the + 647th year of Christ, by Abdallah and Zobeer; in the year 667, by + Ak'bah for the Kalif Moawiah; and in the year 692, by Hassan, the + governor of Egypt, for the Kalif Abd Elmelik. Not one of the armies + of these warriors ever exceeded 50,000 men. + + After these general conquests, the partial conquests of the + Portuguese and Spaniards, about the end of the fifteenth and + beginning of the sixteenth century, were effected by a mere handful + of men; and, in 1509, the latter rendered the kingdom of Algiers + tributary to them: but, afterwards, they lost it by the ferocity of +459 their chiefs, and by the fanaticism of their soldiers and priests; + and, finally, by their perfidy and intolerance, they made + themselves enemies to the various (_Kabyles_) tribes of Mauritania, + and thereby lost their conquest. + + The repeated insults, offered by these ruffians to civilised + Europe, cannot be efficiently punished by a bombardment; a measure + which punishes many innocent subjects for the insults offered by + their government. No one acquainted with the character of the + natives of Barbary will maintain, that the destruction of a few + thousands of the peaceable inhabitants, or the burning of many + houses, is a national calamity in the eyes of a Muselman chief; who + would himself commit the same ravage and destruction that was so + gallantly effected by the British fleet, under Lord Exmouth, for + half the money it cost to accomplish it. + + When Lord St. Vincent was off Cadiz with the British fleet, and + could not obtain the object which he sought of the Emperor of + Marocco; his Lordship, after refusing to comply with the Emperor's + request, communicated to his Lordship by the Emperor's envoy, or + agent, Rais Ben Embark, told the Rais to inform his Emperor, that, + if he did not change his conduct very soon, he would begin a war + with him, and such a war as he had neither seen nor read of before. + When the Rais reported this to the Emperor Soliman, he enquired + what kind of war an admiral could wage against him; some one of the +460 divan observed, that he would destroy the ports on the coast; + adding, that it would cost a certain large sum of money to effect + that destruction. Upon which the Emperor exclaimed, that, for half + that amount, he would himself destroy all these ports.--This affair + happened in September, 1798. + + There is a prophecy in Barbary, that, from time immemorial, has + been generally credited by the inhabitants. It has been transmitted + to them by some fakeer, that the land of the Muselmen will be + wrested from them by the Christians; and there is an impression, + that the period when this event will take place is not far distant. + They also believe that this event will happen on a Friday (the + Muselman Sabbath), whilst they are occupied at their devotions at + the _Dohor_, service of prayer. Accordingly, at this period,--viz. + from twelve till half-past one o'clock,--the gates of all the + town's on the coast are shut and bolted every Friday. This attack, + forsooth, is to happen whilst they are occupied at prayer, because + they are so infatuated with an opinion of their own valour, that + they will not believe that Christians would presume to attack them + openly, when armed and prepared for the combat. It should seem that + these people begin now seriously to anticipate the near approach of + this predestined conquest, and have accordingly entered into a kind + of holy alliance, offensive and defensive: to which, it is said, + the Emperor of Marocco, and the Deys of Tunis and Tripoli, have + acceded; and that this holy alliance is crowned by the Ottoman + Emperor. +461 + It is more than probable, that the Dey of Algiers, goaded by the + blow inflicted by Lord Exmouth,--which has increased his hatred to + Christians, and has inflamed his desire of revenge,--will not fail + to seek every opportunity (according to the known principles of + Muhamedanism), of retaliating and insulting the Europeans, whenever + a favourable opportunity may offer, even at the risk of another + bombardment. This opinion has been confirmed by his late conduct; + and by the activity that has been manifested in the fortifications, + in increasing their military force, in building and equipping new + vessels, to infest the Mediterranean with their abominable + piracies; all which proceedings demonstrate the hostile intentions + of the Dey beyond all doubt. + + * * * * * + + _Plan for the Conquest of Algiers._ + + The inhabitants of the plains are bigoted to the Muhamedan tenets; + but they would readily exchange the iron rod that rules them for a + more mild and beneficial form of government. A well-disciplined + European army of 50,000 men, would assuredly effect their complete + conquest without much difficulty: such an army, directed by a + Wellington, would perform wonders, and astound the Africans. After + the conquest, an energetic, decisive, but beneficent form of + government, would be necessary, to retain the country, and to +462 conquer and annihilate the repugnancy which these people entertain + to our religious tenets. A system of rule formed on the principles + of the English constitution,--directed by good policy, benevolence, + and religious toleration,--would not fail to reconcile these + hostile tribes, and attach them to rational government. The + Berebbers would readily assimilate to such a government; and, + although by nature a treacherous race, they would rejoice to see + the country in possession of a government which, they would + perceive, strove to promote the welfare and prosperity of the + mountaineers, as well as the inhabitants of the plains; and their + own interest would thus gradually subdue the antipathy resulting + from religious prejudices. + + A general knowledge of the African Arabic would be essentially + necessary; and I think a school might be established in England, on + the Madras system, for initiating youths (going out to Africa) in + the rudiments of that language. This would be attended with most + important advantages; and might be accomplished in a very short + time. The conquest of Algiers being thus effected, that of the + neighbouring states would follow, without difficulty, by a + disciplined army of European troops; keeping the principle ever in + view, of conciliating the natives, without swerving from an + energetic and decisive mode of government. + + The advantages that would necessarily result from a successful + attack upon Africa, would be-- +463 + 1. An incalculable demand for spices, and East India manufactures + of silk and cotton. + + 2. A similar demand for coffees, and for sugars, manufactured and + unmanufactured; as well as for other articles of West India + produce. + + 3. An incalculable demand for all our various articles of + manufacture. + + On the other hand, we should obtain from this fine country,-- + + 1. An immense supply of the finest wheat, and other grain, that the + world produces. + + 2. We should be able to open a direct communication with the + interior regions of Africa,--which have baffled the enterprise of + ancient and modern Europe: the fertile and populous districts which + lie contiguous to the Nile of Sudan, throughout the whole of the + interior of Africa, would become, in a few years, as closely + connected to us, by a mutual exchange of benefits, as our own + colonies; and such a stimulus would be imparted to British + enterprise and industry, as would secure to us such stores of gold + as would equal the riches of Solomon, and immortalize the prince + who should cherish this great commerce to its maturity. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +464 + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + + Liverpool, + Dec. 17. 1818. + Sir, + + In "_The Portfolio_," a Monthly Miscellany for May, 1817, published + at Philadelphia, there is rather an interesting review of Ali Bey's + travels. The writer says, "Ali Bey has rectified various errors in + the common maps of Marocco. The river Luccos, for instance, flows + to the South, and not to the North of Alcasser; and the city of + Fas, according to Ali Bey, is situated in 34° 6' north latitude, + and not as laid down in the Maps of Arrowsmith, Rennell, Delille, + Golberri, &c."--If, however, he had given himself the trouble to + consult the map of West Barbary, in Jackson's Account of Marocco, + &c. &c. (which is by far the most accurate extant, and whose + geographical orthography has been adopted in all the best modern + English maps,) he would have seen that Fas is in 34° north + latitude; that the river Elkos, or Luccos, is described in that + map, (which was published several years before Ali Bey's travels,) + as running south of Alcasser. + + In describing the funeral cry at Marocco, the editor, or reviewer, + impresses his reader with an idea that this funeral cry is that of + the Moors, whereas it is no such thing: it is the practice of the + Jews only in West Barbary to cry "Ah! Ah!" and lacerate their faces +465 with their finger nails; after which they wash, drink brandy, and + enjoy themselves. + + The large sea in the interior of Africa, described by Ali Bey to be + without any communication with the Ocean, had been described + (_years before Ali Bey's travels were published_) by Jackson, in + his Account of Marocco, &c. &c. third edition, p. 309, and called + first by him _Bahar Sudan_, and represented as a sea having decked + vessels on it. Mr. Park, in his Second Journey, calls this sea the + Bahar Seafina, without, however, informing the public, or knowing, + that the Bahar Sefeena is an Arabic expression implying a sea of + ships, or a sea where ships are found; and the situation he places + it in coincides exactly with Jackson's prior description. There are + thus three concurrent testimonies of the situation of the Bahar + Sudan, or Sea of Sudan, _first noticed by Jackson_, and since + confirmed by Ali Bey and Park.[274] + + EL HAGE HAMED EL WANGARY. + + [Footnote 274: There is an able discussion of this subject in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, article + "Africa," p. 104, and 105.] + + _On the Negroes_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + Eton, 5th Dec. 1818. + + Many maintain that the Negroes are a docile and tractable race, and + more easily to be governed than Europeans; others maintain, that +466 they are liars, thieves, vindictive, and a demoralised race. That + they are vindictive, no one who is acquainted with their character + will deny; but are not most barbarous and uncivilised nations the + same? What are the Muhamedans and Pagans? The latter, who form + nearly two-thirds of the population of the earth, are generally of + the same character, and the vindictive character of the former is + notorious. + + Propagate among the Negroes the benign principles of the Christian + doctrine, and they will gradually (as those principles are + inculcated) become good subjects, and useful members of society. It + is that religion which will bring forth their latent and social + virtues--a religion, the moral principles of which are the + admiration even of its enemies, the Muhamedans themselves: a + religion which exalts the human character above the brutes, and + brings forth its beauties as the brilliancy of the diamond is + brought forth by the hand of the polisher. + + Destroy their witchcraft and idolatry, and on their ruins inculcate + the divine doctrines of Christ, and we shall soon see that they + will possess sentiments that exalt the human character, and that + nothing has contributed more to their mental degradation than the + cruel treatment of their masters in the European colonies of the + West. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +467 + + _Cursory Observations on Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal + of a Route across India, through Egypt, to England_. + + Eton, 7th May, 1819. + + It is remarkable, that in proportion as our mass of information + respecting the interior of Africa increases, the truth of Mr. James + Grey Jackson's account of that country, in the appendix to his + account of Marocco, &c. receives additional confirmation. Some + literary sceptics have been so far prejudiced against this author's + report as to doubt its veracity altogether; but let us see how far + the interesting report of Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence, in his + journal of a route across India, through Egypt, to England, lately + published, corroborates Mr. Jackson's description of Timbuctoo, + published so long since as 1809. + + It is to be lamented, that Jackson's African orthography is not + altogether adopted: with the superior and practical knowledge which + he evidently possesses of the African Arabic language, it cannot, I + presume, be doubted by the learned and impartial, that his + orthography is correct; and, judging from what has already + transpired, I do not hesitate to predict, that his African + orthography, from an evidence of its accuracy, will, in a few + years, be adopted throughout; although the learned world have been + ten years in correcting _Tombuctoo_ into _Timbuctoo_; the latter +468 being Mr. Jackson's orthography in his account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. published in 1809. + + The late account of Mr. Bowdich's mission to Ashantee has been the + first to corroborate this author in this respect; and + Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence has confirmed it with this additional + observation, in his Journal of a Route, &c. page 493: "Upon + enquiring about _Timbuctoo_ the Hage laughed at our pronunciation, + the name of the city being _Timbuctoo_." The next improvement in + African geographical orthography, will probably be the conversion + of Fez into _Fas_ (for there is absolutely no more reason for + calling it Fez than there has been for calling Timbuctoo, + Timbuctoo), this word being spelled in Arabic with the letters _Fa, + Alif_, and _Sin_, which cannot be converted into any other + orthography but _Fas_; the same argument would hold with various + other words spelled correctly by this author, an accurate + elucidation of which might encroach too much upon your valuable + pages. I shall therefore briefly state, that in page 480 of Colonel + Fitzclarence's Journal, the name of the Moorish gentleman to whose + care the sons of the Emperor of Marocco, Muley Soliman, were + confided, is stated to be El Hadge Talib ben Jelow: this is + incorrect orthography, there is no such name in the Arabic language + as _Jelow_, it is a barbarism; ben Jelow signifies ben Jelule, and + the proper name is _El Hage Taleb ben Jelule_. + +469 Behur Soldan is evidently another barbarism or corruption of the + Arabic words _Bahar Sudan: vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 309, published by Cadell and Davies. + + It has been observed by an intelligent French writer, that "_Le + pluspart des hommes mesurant leur foi par leur connoissance acquise + croyent à fort peu de choses_." In confirmation of this opinion, + many intelligent men, at the time of the publication of Jackson's + Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c. doubted the existence of the + _Heirie_, as described by him; but in proportion as our knowledge + of Africa improves, we see that the truth of these wonders is + confirmed: and Colonel Fitzclarence mentions one that travelled + four days in one; but we should not be surprised to hear, before + this century shall terminate, that an Englishman had travelled from + Fas to Timbuctoo on a Heirie, accompanied by an accredited agent of + the Emperor of Marocco, in ten or fifteen days! + + It appears by this ingenious traveller's Journal of a Route, &c. + page 493, that all religions are tolerated at Timbuctoo. This is a + confirmation of what is reported by Jackson, in the Appendix + annexed to his Account of Marocco, &c. page 300. + + The fish in the river of Timbuctoo, the Neel El Abeed or Neel of + Sudan, is described by Colonel Fitzclarence as resembling salmon: +470 this is a corroboration of Jackson, who says, the _shebbel_ abound + in the Neel of Sudan, and the shebbel is the African salmon. See + appendix to Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. page 306. + + In page 494, Colonel Fitzclarence says, the Nile at Kabra is a + quarter of a mile wide; Jackson says it is as wide as the Thames at + London. See Appendix to Jackson's Marocco, &c. page 305. + + In page 496 of the Colonel's narrative, an account is given of the + rate of travelling through the Desert; which, allowing for an + arbitrary difference, in the resting days, corroborates Jackson's + Account, page 286. + + In page 497, El hage Taleb ben Jelule's report to the Colonel, of + an account of two white men, (undoubtedly Mungo Park and another,) + who were at Timbuctoo in 1806, is a remarkable confirmation of the + account brought by Mr. Jackson from Mogodor in January, 1807, and + reported by him to the Marquis of Hastings, to Sir Joseph Banks, + and to Sir Charles Morgan, which is inserted in the Morning Post + and other papers, about the middle of August, 1814. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. +471 + + _On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Turkey in Europe, in + Asia, and in Africa_. + + London, May 10, 1819. + + In this enlightened age, when our intercourse is increasing with + nations remote from our own, and possessing different religions, + languages, laws, and customs; when the ambassadors of the Muhamedan + potentates of Europe, Asia, and Africa, are resident in our + metropolis, all understanding _the Arabic language_; when, with a + knowledge of this language, a person may travel and hold colloquial + intercourse with the inhabitants of Turkey, with the greater part + of Asia, and with Africa; and, lastly, when we consider the + valuable and immense stores of Arabian literature, of the best + periods which still remain unexplored, is it not remarkable under + all the exciting circumstances above enumerated, that in this + powerful and opulent country, there should not be found, with all + our boasted learning and eagerness of research, three or four + Englishmen capable of writing and conversing intelligibly in that + beautiful and useful language? The extent of this disgraceful + ignorance would be scarcely credible, were there not proofs beyond + doubt, that our principal seats of learning are as deficient in +472 this knowledge as the public in general[275], and that letters or + public documents written in that language, have been in vain sent + to them for translation. What I have long considered as chiefly + tending to diminish the desire of acquiring this language, is an + opinion dogmatically asserted, and diligently propagated, that the + Arabic of the East and West are so different from each other, as + almost to form distinct languages, and to be unintelligible to the + inhabitants of either of those regions respectively; but, having + always doubted the truth of this assertion, I have endeavoured, + from time to time, _during the last ten years_, to ascertain + whether the Arabic language spoken in Asia be the same with that + which is spoken in Africa, (westward to the shores of the Atlantic + ocean,) but without success, and even without the smallest +473 satisfactory elucidation, until the arrival in London last winter, + of the most _Reverend Doctor Giarve, Bishop of Jerusalem_, who has + given such incontestible proofs of his proficiency in the Arabic + language, that his opinion on this important point cannot but be + decisive; accordingly, on presenting to the reverend Doctor some + letters from the Emperor of Marocco to me, desiring that he would + oblige me with his opinion, whether the Arabic in those letters was + the same with that spoken in Syria, the Rev. Doctor replied in the + following perspicuous manner, which, I think, decides the question: + _"I can assure you, that the language and the idiom of the Arabic + in these letters from the Emperor of Marocco to you, is precisely + the same with that which is spoken in the East."_ + + [Footnote 275: See page 408. respecting a letter sent to our + late revered Sovereign, by the Emperor of Marocco. In + consequence of the inattention to that letter, the Emperor + determined never to write again to a Christian king in the + Arabic language; and, with regard to Great Britain, I believe + he has faithfully ever since kept his word! Some time before + this letter was written, I being then in Marocco, the Emperor's + minister asked me if the Emperor his master were to write an + Arabic letter to the _Sultan George Sultan El Ingleez_, (these + were his expressions,) whether there were persons capable of + translating it into English: I replied, that there were men at + the Universities capable of translating every learned language + in the known world; and accordingly the letter above alluded to + was written in Arabic, and addressed to His Majesty. This + letter was written by the Emperor himself, which I am competent + to declare, having letters from him in my possession, and being + acquainted with his hand-writing and style.] + + It is, therefore, thus ascertained, that the Arabic language spoken + in the kingdom of Tafilelt, of Fas, of Marocco, and in Suse or + South Barbary, is precisely the same language with that which is + now spoken in Syria, and Palestine in Asia; countries distant from + each other nearly 3000 miles, and from information since obtained, + there appears to be no doubt that the Arabic language spoken by the + Arabs in Arabia, by the Moors and Arabs in India and Madagascar, by + the Moorish nations on the African shores of the Mediterranean, are + one and the same language with that spoken in Marocco, subject only + to certain provincial peculiarities, which by no means form +474 impediments to the general understanding of the language, no more, + or not so much so, as the provincial peculiarities of one county of + England differ from another!! + + Unwilling to encroach too much on your valuable pages, I will + leave, for the subject of my next letter, the inconceivable + misconstructions and errors into which the ignorance of this + language has led European travellers in Africa, of which I shall + state some examples in a recent publication respecting Africa. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient Servant, + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + + _Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an + Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. + showing the Errors that have been committed by European Travellers + on that Continent, from their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the + learned and the general travelling Language of that interesting + part of the World_. + + June 17, 1819. + + The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibber, was invariably described + as dividing in two large streams.--_Vide_ "Bowdich's Account of a + Mission to Ashantee," p. 187. + + The Lake Dibber is called in the proceedings of the African + Association Dibbie, but the proper appellation is _El Bahar Tibber, + _or_ El Bahar Dehebbie_. The Bahar Tibber signifies the sea of gold +475 dust; the _Bahar Dehebbie_ signifies the sea or water abounding in + gold. Jinnee, which is on or near the shore of this lake, (I call + it a lake because it is fresh water,) abounds in gold, and is + renowned throughout Africa for the ingenuity of its artificers in + that metal, insomuch that they acknowledge the superiority of + Europeans in all arts except that of gold work. There are some + specimens of Jinnee gold trinkets, very correctly delineated in the + recent interesting work of "Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's + Journal of a Route across India, through Egypt to England," p. 496. + + Page 187, "Yahoodie, a place of great trade." + + This place is reported to be inhabited by one of the lost tribes of + Israel, possibly an emigration from the tribe of Judah. Yahooda, in + African Arabic, signifies Judah. Yahoodee signifies Jew. It is not + impossible, that many of the lost tribes of Israel may be found + dispersed in the interior regions of Africa, when we shall become + better acquainted with that Continent; it is certain, that some of + the nations that possessed the country eastward of Palestine when + the Israelites were a favoured nation, have emigrated to Africa. + + An emigration of the Amorites[276] are now in possession of the + declivity of the Atlas Mountains, westward of the sanctuary[277] of + Muley Driss, and in the neighbourhood of the ruins of Pharaoh; they +476 live in encampments, consisting of two, three, or four tents each: + they resemble the Arabs of the Desert in their predatory + excursions. I speak from practical knowledge, having twice + travelled through their country, and visited their encampments. + + [Footnote 276: They are called _Ite-amor_, Amorite.] + + [Footnote 277: _Vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, chap. viii. + enlarged edition.] + + Page 189. "Mr. Beaufoy's Moor says, that below Ghinea is the sea + into which the river of Timbuctoo discharges itself." + + This might have been understood to signify the Sea of Sudan, if the + Moor had not said below Ghinea, (by which is meant Genowa, or as we + call it Guinea,) which implies, that the _Neel El Abeed_ (Niger) + discharges itself in the sea that washes the coast of Guinea; this, + therefore, corroborates Seedi Hamed's, or rather Richard's + hypothesis. + + Page 190. "This branch of the Niger passing Timbuctoo, is not + crossed until the third day going from Timbuctoo to Houssa." + + This quotation from "Dapper's Description of Africa," is + corroborated by L'Hage Abdsalam, Shabeeni, whose narrative says, + "Shabeeni, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Houssa, and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached + the Neel in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, and + cultivated country." + + The confusion of rivers, made mere equivocal by every new + hypothesis, receives here additional ambiguity. If there were (as + Mr. Bowdich affirms) three distinct rivers near Timbuctoo; viz. the +477 Joliba, the Gambarro, and the Niger, (_i. e_. the _Neel El Abeed_) + how comes it that they have not been noticed by Leo Africanus, who + resided at Timbuctoo; by Edrissi, who is the most correct of the + Arabian geographers; or whence is it, that these rivers have not + been noticed by the many Moorish travelling merchants who have + resided at Timbuctoo, and whom I have repeatedly questioned + respecting this matter[278], or whence is it that Alkaid L'Hassen + Ramy, a renowned chief of the Emperor of Marocco's army, with whom + I was well acquainted, and who was a native of Houssa, knew of no + such variously inclined streams. This being premised, I am + certainly not disposed to relinquish the opinion I brought with me + from Africa in the year 1807, viz. that the _Neel El Abeed_ is the + only mighty river that runs through Africa from west to east; but I + admit that its adjuncts, as well as itself, have different names; + thus, in the manuscript of Mr. Park's death, a copy of which is + inserted in "Mr. Bowdich's Account of Ashantee," it is called Kude; + many hundred miles eastward it is called Kulla, from the country +478 through which it passes; but Kude and Kulla are different names, + and ought not to be confounded one with the other; neither ought + Quolla (_i. e._, the Negro pronunciation of Kulla) to be confounded + with Kude, the former being the Negro term for the same river, in + the same manner as Niger is the Roman name for the _Neel Elabeed_, + which is the Arabic name for the same river. There is a stream + which proceeds from the Sahara, the water of which is _brackish_; + this stream hardly can be called a river, except in the rainy + season. It passes in a south-westerly direction near Timbuctoo, but + does not join the _Neel Elabeed_. I could mention several + intelligent and credible authorities, the report of respectable + merchants, who have resided, and, who have had establishments at + Timbuctoo, in confirmation of this fact; but as the authorities + which I should adduce would be unknown, even by name, to men of + science in Europe, I would refer the reader to the interesting + narrative of an intelligent Moorish merchant, who resided three + years at Timbuctoo, and who was known to the committee of the + African Association; this travelling merchant's name is L'Hage + Abdsalam Shabeeny, and his narrative, a manuscript of which (with + critical and explanatory notes by myself) I have in my possession, + has the following observation:[279]--"Close to the town of + Timbuctoo, on the south, is a small rivulet in which the +479 inhabitants wash their clothes, and which is about two feet deep; + it runs into the great forest on the east, and does not communicate + with the Nile, but is lost in the sands west of the town: its water + is brackish; that of the Nile is good and pleasant." + + [Footnote 278: The Arabs who conduct the _cafelahs_ or caravans + across the Sahara, are often seen at Agadeer or Santa Cruz, and + sometimes even at Mogodor; and if there was a river penetrating + to the north through the Sahara, would it not have been noticed + by them? Is it possible that such a prominent feature of + African geography, as a river of sweet water passing through a + desert, could fail of being noticed by these people, who are, + in their passage through the Desert, continually in search of + water?] + + [Footnote 279: See page 8.] + + Page 199. Mr. Murray recently observes, "Joliba seems readily + convertible into Joli-ba, the latter syllable being merely an + adjunct, signifying river; this I was also given to understand." + + This is an etymological error. The Joliba is not a compound word, + if it were it would be Bahar Joli, not Bajoli, or Joliba; thus do + learned men, through a rage for criticism, and for want of a due + knowledge of African languages, render confused, by fancied + etymologies, that which is sufficiently clear and perspicuous. + + Page 191. "The river of Darkulla mentioned by Mr. Brown." + + This is evidently an error: there is probably no such place or + country as Darkulla. There is, however, an alluvial country + denominated _Bahar Kulla_, (for which see the map of Africa in the + Supplement of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, p. 88. lat. N. 8°, + long. E. 20°). I apprehend this Darkulla, when the nations of + Europe shall be better acquainted with Africa and its languages, + will be discovered to be a corruption of _Bahar Kulla_, or an + unintelligible and ungrammatical term: _Dëaar Kulla_ is + grammatical, and implies a country covered with houses! _Dar Kulla_ +480 is an ungrammatical and an incorrect term, which being literally + translated into English, signifies _many house_. This being + premised, we may reasonably suppose, that _Bahar Kulla_ is the + proper term which, as I have always understood, forms the junction + of the Nile of the west with the Nile of the east, and hence + forming a continuity[280] of waters from Timbuctoo to Cairo. + + [Footnote 280: See my letter in the Monthly Magazine for March, + 1817, page 128.] + + 191. In this geographical dissertation the word Niger is still + used, which is a name altogether unknown in Africa, and calculated + to contuse the geographical enquirer. As this word is + unintelligible to the natives of Africa, whether they be Arabs, + Moors, Berebbers, Shelluhs, or Negroes, ought it not to be expunged + from the maps? + + P. 192. In the note in this page, "Jackson's Report of the source + of the _Neel el Abeed_, and the Source of the Senegal," is + confirmed by the Jinnee Moor.--See Jackson's Appendix to his + Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, p. 311. + + "It is said, that thirty days from Timbuctoo they eat their + prisoners!" Does not this allude to Banbugr[281], and has not this +491 word been corrupted by Europeans into Bambarra. See Mr. Bowdich's + MS. No. 3, p. 486; Banbugr, who eat the flesh of men. Jackson's + translation. + + [Footnote 281: The Gr in Banbugr, is the Arabic letter, grain. + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, renders this letter gh; + which demonstrates, that his knowledge of the Arabic was only + scholastic, not practical. It has no resemblance or affinity to + gh, and would be unintelligible if so pronounced to an Arab.] + + Page 193. The government of Jinnee appears to be Moorish; because + _Malai Smaera_, which should be written _Mulai Smaera_, signifies + in the Arabic language, the _Prince Smaera_: the term does not + belong to Negroes, but exclusively to Muhamedans. _Malai Bacharoo_ + is a Negro corruption of the word; it should be _Mulai_, or _Muley + Bukaree_; i.e. the _Abeed Mulai Bukaree_, or _Abeed Seedi Bukaree_. + They are well known among the Negroes of Sudan; the Negroes of this + race form the present body-guard of the Emperor of Maroceo's + troops, consisting of 5000 horse. They are dexterous in the + management of the horse, are well-disciplined troops, and are the + only military in the Emperor's army that can cope with the + Berebbers of the Atlas. + + Note, p. 194. Dapper's description of Africa is here quoted in + confirmation of the decay of Timbuctoo; and Jackson is accused of + extravagance. The latter I shall pass over, it being an assertion + unsupported by any substantial testimony; but immediately + afterwards is the following passage. + + "The three last kings before Billa (_i.e. Billabahada_) were + Osamana, (_i.e._ Osaman; Osamana being the feminine gender,) + Dawoloo, and Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woolo + reigning in 1800; and a Moor who had come from Timbuctoo to + Comassee ten years ago (viz. about 1807, or ten years before Mr. +482 Bowdich visited Ashantee), did not know King Woolo was dead, as he + was reigning at the time he left Timbuctoo." + + With regard to Dapper's assertion, it should be remembered, that if + Timbuctoo was decaying in his time, that is about the period that + Muley Ismael ascended the throne of Marocco, viz. in 1672; it + revived very soon after, that is before the close of the 17th + century. This powerful and warlike prince had the address to + establish and to maintain a very strong garrison at Timbuctoo; and + accordingly, during his long reign of fifty-five years, viz. from + 1672 to 1727, Timbuctoo carried on a constant, extensive, and + lucrative trade with Marocco, Tafilelt, and Fas, in gold dust, + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, ivory, and slaves, &c. + _Akkabahs_[282], and _cafilahs_, or caravans, were going + continually from Timbuctoo to Tafilelt, Marocco, Fas, and Terodant. + Travelling across the Desert was then as safe as it is now in the + plains of Marocco, or on the roads in England; the only months + during which the caravans did not travel were July and August, + because the _Shûme_, or hot wind of the Desert, prevails during + these two months. It is reported, that Muley Ismael was so rich in + gold, that the bolts of the gates of his palaces, and his kitchen + utensils, were of pure gold. Timbuctoo continued to carry on a most +483 lucrative trade with Marocco, &c.; during the Feign of the Emperor + Muley Abd Allah, son and successor of Ismael, and also during the + reign of Seedy[283] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, who died about the year + 1795, a sovereign universally regretted, and hence aptly + denominated the father of his people: since the decease of + Seedy[284] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, the father of the reigning + emperor, Muley Soliman, the trade of Sudan has rapidly decreased, + because the policy of the present emperor is, to discourage + commerce, but to encourage the agriculture and the manufactures of + his own country, so as to make them sufficient for itself, and + independent of foreign supplies! + + [Footnote 282: An Akkabah is an accumulation of many _cafilahs_ + or caravans.] + + [Footnote 283: It should be observed, that an emperor having + the name of the Arabian prophet, is called Seedy; but having + any other name, he is called Muley; the former signifies + master, the latter, prince.] + + [Footnote 284: If therefore the trade with Timbuctoo declined + in Leo's time, _i.e._ A.D. 1570, it unquestionably revived in + Ismael's reign, and also continued with but little diminution + during the reign of his son Abd Allah, and his grandson + Muhamed.] + + Da Woolo is a reverential term, and is synonymous with Woolo, + signifying King Woolo. + +484 Park says, Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805, + implying that he reigned from 1796 to 1805. The Moor before + mentioned, who came from Timbuctoo to Comassie in 1807, told Mr. + Bowdich, that Woolo was then reigning at Timbuctoo. Isaaco says, + Woolo was predecessor to Mansong; consequently, according to this + Jew, Woolo was king before the year 1796; therefore, if Mr. Park's + testimony be correct, Woolo must have been predecessor and + successor to Mansong; otherwise, Mr. Park was incorrect in saying + that Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805. Adams + says, Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in 1810, and was old and + grey-headed. Riley's narrative also confirms his age and grey + hairs. With regard to my testimony, viz. that Woolo was king[285] + of Timbuctoo in 1800, I had it from two merchants of veracity, who + returned from Timbuctoo in 1800, after residing there 14 years: + they are both alive now, and reside at Fas; their names I would + mention, were I not apprehensive that it might lead to a reprimand + from the emperor, and create jealousy for having communicated + intelligence respecting the interior of the country. I should not + have entered into this detail _in confirmation of my assertion that + Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in_ 1800, if the editor of the + Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica (article Africa), had not + asserted, that I have committed an anachronism in asserting, that + he was king in that year; thereby insinuating that Park was right, + and that I was wrong. + + [Footnote 285: See my Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the + Anti-Jacobin Review for January, 1818, p. 453.] + +485 Page 195. The Editor of Adams's Narrative is, I apprehend, + incorrect in asserting, that the name Fatima affords no proof that + the queen, or the wife of Woolo, was a Muhamedan. Fatima is + incontestably an Arabian proper name; and it would be considered + presumption in a Negress unconverted to Muselmism, to assume the + name of Fatima. She must, therefore, have been necessarily a + Mooress, or a converted Negress; the name has nothing to do with a + numeral, as Mr. Bowdich suggests, and above all not with the + _numeral five_, for that is a number ominous of evil in Africa, and + as such, would never have been bestowed as a name on a beloved + wife. + + Page 196. Note of W. Hutchison, "The four greatest monarchs known + on the banks of the Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisimiel, + and Malla, or Mallowa." + + Baharnoo should be written _Ber Noh_; i.e. the country of Noah the + patriarch; it is called in the maps Bernoo, and the whole passage + is calculated greatly to confuse African geography. The information + is unquestionably derived from Negro authority, and that not of the + most authentic kind. Santambool is the Negro corruption of + _Strambool_, which is the Arabic name for Constantinople: + _Malisimiel_ is the Negro corruption of Muley Ismael.[286] The + first signifies the empire of Constantinople; the second signifies + the empire of Muley Ismael, who was emperor of Marocco in the early + part of the 18th century, and whose authority was acknowledged at +486 Timbuctoo, where he maintained a strong garrison, and held the + adjacent country in subjection, where his name is held in reverence + to this day. This being premised, it follows of course, that one of + these four great monarchies here alluded to, viz. that of + Santambool is certainly not on the Quolla, unless the Quolla be + considered the same river with the Egyptian Nile, and that Egypt be + considered a part of the empire of Santambool; then, and then only, + can it be said, that the empire of Santambool is situated on the + Quolla. + + [Footnote 286: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii. p. 295, and + note, p. 296.] + + Page 198. Two large lakes were described close to the northward of + Houssa; one called Balahar Sudan, and the other Girrigi Maragasee; + the first of these names is a Negro corruption, or an European + corruption of the term _Bahar Sudan_[287]; the other is a Negro + name of another, if not of the same lake or sea. The situation of + the _Bahar Sudan_ is described by me in the 13th chapter, in my + account of Marocco, to be fifteen journeys east of Timbuctoo, and + the _Neel El Abeed_ passes through it. I had this information from + no less than seven Moorish merchants of intelligence and veracity; + the same is confirmed by Ali Bey[288], the Shereef Imhammed, Park, + and Dr. Seitzen; all these authorities must therefore fall to the +487 ground if Mr. Bowdich's report is to overturn these testimonies, + which has placed it three degrees of latitude north of the _Neel El + Abeed_, or [289]_Neel Assudan_, and in the Sahara[290], + _unconnected with any river_! I doubt if any, but a very ignorant + Pagan Negro (for the Muhamedan Negroes are more intelligent), would + have given the Sea of Sudan this novel situation. + + [Footnote 287: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii.] + + [Footnote 288: For an elucidation of these opinions, see my + Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the European Magazine, + Feb. 1818, page 113.] + + [Footnote 289: Neel Sudan and Neel Assudan are synonymous, the + _as_ being the article.] + + [Footnote 290: See Mr. Bowdich's Map, in his Account of a + Mission to Ashantee.] + + Page 200. The Quolla appears to be the Negro pronunciation of the + Arabic name _Kulla_; i.e. the _Bahar Kulla_, to which the _Neel + Assudan_ is said to flow. _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic word + signifying the sea altogether, or an alluvial country. The _Neel + Assudan_ here joins the waters of a river that proceed westward + from the Abysinian Nile, and hence is formed the water + communication between Cairo[291] and Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 291: See Jackson's Account of Marocco, enlarged + edition, p. 313. See also his Letter to the Editor of the + Monthly Magazine for March, 1817. p. 125.] + + Page 201. Quolla Raba, or Kulla Raba, signifies the Kulla forest, + as the Negroes express it; the Arabs call it _Raba Kulla_, i.e. the + forest of _Kulla_, If any further proof of the accuracy of this + interpretation be necessary, it maybe added, that the position + agrees exactly with Major Rennell's kingdom of _Kulla_, for which + see the Major's map in proceedings of the African Association, vol. + i. page 209, lat. N. 9°, long. W. 10°. +488 + Page 203. The lake Fittri is a lake, the waters of which are said + to be filtered through the earth, as the name implies. The Nile is + here said to run under ground. The Arabs and Moors have a + tradition, that the waters of Noah's flood rested here, and were + absorbed and filtered through the earth, leaving only this large + lake. I never understood this sea to be identified with the Bahar + Heimed[292]; i.e. the Hot or Warm Sea. The Hot Sea and the Filtered + Sea are distinct waters; the former lies about mid-way, in a right + line between Lake Fittri and Lake Dwi. (See Laurie and Whittle's + Map of Africa, published in 1813.) This is another inaccuracy of + Mr. Hutchison; who appears, indeed, to have collected information + from natives, without considering what title they had to + credibility. Another error is added to the note in page 203 and + 204, viz. what he calls sweet beans are unquestionably dates, which + have not the least affinity in taste, shape, growth, or quality, to + beans. The Arabic name correctly converted into European letters, + is _timmer_, not _tummer_. The Arabic words designating sweet + beans, is _Elfool El Hellue_. The passage signed William Hutchison + here alluded to, is this: "The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and + _sweet beans called tummer_." + + [Footnote 292: _Heimed_ is an Arabic term, signifying that + degree of heat which milk has when coming from the cow or + goat.] + + Note, page 204. I do not know whence the Quarterly Review has +489 derived its information respecting the derivation of the word Misr + (a corruption of Massar); the word Massar is compounded of the two + Arabic words Ma and Sar; i.e. Mother of Walls. Possibly some Arabic + professor versed in bibliographic lore, to favor a darling + hypothesis, has transmuted Massar into Misr, to strengthen the + plausibility of the etymology of Misr from Misraem!! + + Note, page _205_. _Bahar bela ma_ is an Arabic expression, + importing it to be a country once covered with water, but now no + longer so. In the note in this page, I recognise the word Sooess to + designate the Isthmus of Suez. The Bahar Malee, and the Sebaha + Bahoori, are Negro corruptions of the Arabic words _Bahar El + Maleh_, and _Seba Baharet_: the former does not apply particularly + to the Mediterranean, but _is a term applicable to any sea or ocean + that is salt_ (as all seas and oceans assuredly are); the latter + term signifies literally, the Seven Seas or Waters: neither is this + a term applicable to the Mediterranean, but to any sea supplied by + seven rivers, as the Red Sea: these, therefore, are evidently other + inaccuracies of Mr. Hutchison. I apprehend Mr. Hutchison's Arabic + tutor at Ashantee was not an erudite scholar. The term, and the + only term in Africa, applicable to the Mediterranean Sea, is the + _Bahar Segrer_ (literally the Small Sea); and _El Bahar El Kabeer_ + (is the Atlantic Ocean, or literally the Great Sea); the latter is + sometimes figuratively called the _Bahar Addolum_, i.e. the Unknown + Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. +490 + Note, p. 206. Is it possible that the author doubts that Wangara is + east of Timbuctoo? It should seem that he did, as he quotes Mr. + Hutchison as authority for making it to contain Kong, a mountainous + district many journeys south of the _Neel Assudan_. Mr. Park's + testimony is also called in support of this opinion, but they are + both erroneous. Wangara is as well known in Africa to be east of + Timbuqtoo, as in England York is known to be North of of London. + + Oongooroo is a barbarous Negro corruption of Wangara; therefore, + this note, if suffered to pass through the press unnoticed, would + be calculated to confuse, not to elucidate, African geography; + neither can it be called, according to Mr. Horneman's orthography, + Ungura: the name is _Wangara_ which cannot be converted accurately + into any word _but_ Wangara. Ungura Oongooroo, &c. are corruptions + of the proper name, originating in an imperfect, and but an oral + knowledge of the African Arabic. + + Page 210. I apprehend the reason why Wassenah was not known at + Ashantee by the traders, is because it was out of their trading + track. I have no doubt of the existence of Wassenah or Massenah + (for when the names of African towns and countries are recorded, we + should not be particular about a letter or two, when we find so + many orthographical variations are made by different authors); + neither is there any reason (that I know of) to doubt the +491 description of Wassenah given in Riley's Narrative; but it is not + extraordinary, that this place should be unknown at Ashantee, if + there were no commerce or communication between these countries + respectively; it is certain, that the Africans neither know, seek, + or care, for places or countries with which they have no trade or + communication. + + It appears well deserving of observation (for the purpose of + rendering Arabic names intelligible to future African travellers), + that Mr. Bowdich has demonstrated that, what is called in our maps, + 1. Bambarra, 2. Gimbala, 3. Sego, 4. Berghoo, 5. Begarmee, being + written in the Arabic language, with the guttural letter _grain_, + would be quite unintelligible, if pronounced to an African _as they + are written_ by our letters, the nearest approximation to the + Arabic words would be as follows, taking _Gr_ for the nearest + similitude that our alphabet affords to the guttural letter [Arabic + غ ] _grain_. + + Correct Pronunciation. African Orthography. Called in the Maps. + + 1. Banbug'r [Arabic] Bambara. + + 2. Grimbala [Arabic] Gimbala. + + 3. Shagr'u [Arabic] Sego. + + 4. Bergr'u [Arabic] Berghoo. + + 5. Bagrarmee [Arabic] Begarmee. +492 + The African traveller should be precise in his attention to the + sound of these words, otherwise he will be quite unintelligible to + the Africans, and to the Muhamedans. + + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, is certainly incorrect, when he + says, the letter غ _grain_ should be pronounced _gh_. No + one acquainted _practically_ with the Arabic language, could + possibly be of this opinion; _gh_ having no more resemblance to the + sound of the letter غ _grain_, than _g_ has to _h_: and + every traveller going to Africa with this erroneous opinion, will, + undoubtedly, be unintelligible to the Africans. + + Finally, the Arabic document, if it may be permitted to call it + Arabic, facing page 128 of this interesting work of Mr. Bowdich, is + a most miserable composition of _Lingua franca_, or corrupt + Spanish, of unintelligible jargon, consisting of many words quite + unintelligible to the Africans, whether Negroes or Moors, or + others. The language of this document, although it has some Arabic + words in it, is worse, if possible, than the scrawl in which it is + written; neither is it a correct translation of the English which + precedes it. But purporting to be a letter issued from the + _accredited servants of the King of the English_, it is certainly a + disgrace to the country from whence it issues, and a rare specimen + of our knowledge of the Arabic language. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. +493 + + _Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa._ + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE JOURNAL OF TRADE, &c. + + Sir, Eton, June 30, 1818. + + The last expedition from Sierra Leone, in addition to many others + sent out for the purpose of _exploring the interior of Africa_, + having failed, and the enterprising and persevering Mr. Burckhardt, + having frustrated the well grounded hopes of the African + Association, by his having paid the debt of nature, it is not + improbable that His Majesty's government _will now direct their + attention with energy to the only plan that can possibly make that + interesting and extraordinary country a jewel in the British + crown_. + + This important discovery, which would immortalise the prince, who + should cherish it to its maturity, _can be effected only through + the medium of commerce_. But it should be attempted not only with + energy and decision, but with _dispatch_, before the enterprising + and commercial spirit of a foreign power (seeing how abortive our + efforts have been), shall snatch from us the glorious opportunity + now offered of _laying open the interior regions of Africa_ to the + commercial enterprise of Great Britain. + + I am, Sir, Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. + +494 + + The following curious Memoir was composed by Edmund Hogan, in the + reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lately found amongst the papers of + one of his descendants. + + (A TRUE COPY.) + + "_The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the Sworne Esquires of + her Ma't's Person, from her Highnesse to Muley Abdelmelech, + Emperour of Morocco, and King of Fes and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. + Written by himselfe_. + + "I Edmund Hogan, being appointed Embassadour from the Queens Ma'tie + to the above-named Emperour and King Muley Abdelmelech, departed + with my company and servants from London the 22d April, 1577, being + imbarked in the good ship called the Gallion, of London, and + arrived in Azafi, a port of Barbary, the 21st of May next + following. Immediately I sent Leonell Egerton ashoare with my + letters directed to John Williams and John Bampton, who dispatched + a courier to Morocco to know the Kings pleasure for my repaire to + the court, which letters came to theire hands on the Thursday + night. They with all speed gave the King understanding of it, who + being glad thereof, speeded the next day certaine captaines, with + souldiera and tents, with other provision, to Azafi; so that upon + Whitsunday at night, the said captaines, with John Bampton, Robert +495 Washborne, and Robert Lion, and the Kings officers, came late to + Azafi. In the meane time I remained aboard, and caused some of the + goods to be discharged, for lightning of the ship; and I wrote in + my letter that I would not lande 'till I knew the Kings pleasure. + The 26th day, being Saturday, the Mark-speed arrived in the roade + about two of the clock in the afternoone. The 27th day, being + Whitsunday, came aboard the Gallion, John Bampton, and others, + giving me to understand how much the King rejoyced of my safe + arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie; and how that for my safe + conduct to the court he had sent four captaines, and an hundred + souldiers well appointed, with a horse furnished, which he used + himself to ride on, with all other furniture accordingly; they + wished me also to come on land in the best order I could, as well + for my self as my men, which I did, having to the number of ten + men, whereof three were trumpeters. The ships being four, appointed + themselves in the best order they could, for the best shew, and + shott off all theire ordinance to the value of twenty marks in + powder. At my coming, ashoare, I found all the souldiers well + appointed on horseback, the captaines and the Govern'r of the towne + standing as neer the water side as they could, with a jennet of the + Kings, and rec'd me from the boate, declaring how glad his Ma'tie + was of my safe arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie my +496 Mistresse, and that he had sent them to attend upon me, it being + his pleasure that I should tarrie there on shoare five or six dayes + for my refreshing; so being mounted upon the jennet, they conducted + me through the towne into a faire fielde upon the sea side, where + there was a tent provided for me, and all the ground spread with + Turkie carpets, and the castle discharged a peale of ordinance, and + all things necessarie were brought into my tent, where I both tooke + my table and lodging, and had other convenient tents for my + servants. The souldiers inviron'd the tents, and watched about us + day and night as long as I lay there, altho' I sought my speedier + dispatch. On the Wednesday towards night, I tooke my horse, and + travelled ten miles to the first place of water that wee could + finde, and there pitched our tents 'till the next morning, and so + traveled till ten of the clock, and then pitched our tents 'till + four, and so traveled as long as day light would suffer, about + twenty-six miles that day. The next day being Fryday, I traveled in + like order but eight and twenty miles at the most; and by a + [293]river, being about six miles within sight of the Citty of + Morocco, wee pitched bur tents. Imediately after came all our + English Merchants, and the French, on horseback, to meete me; and + before night there came an Alcayde from the King with fiftie men, + and divers mules laden with victuall and banket for my supper, +497 declaring unto me how glad the King shewed himselfe to hear of the + Queens Ma'tie, and that his pleasure was I should be received into + his countrey as never any Christian the like; and desired to know + what time the next day I would come into his Citie, because he + would that all the Christians, as also his Nobilitie, should meete + me; and willed John Bampton to be with him early in the morning, + which he did. About seven of the clock, being accompanied with the + French and English Merchants, and a great number of souldiers, I + passed towards the Citie, and by that time I had traveled two + miles, there met me all the Christians of the Spaniards and + Portugals to receive me, which I know was more by the Kings + commandment then of any good wills of themselves; for some of them, + although they speake me faire, hung downe theire heads like dogs, + and especially the Portugals; and I countenanced them accordingly. + So I passed on, 'till I came within two English miles of the Citie; + and then John Bampton returned, shewing me that the King was so + glad of my coming, that he could not devise to doe too much, to + shew the good will that he did owe to the Queens Ma'tie and her + Realme; His counsellors met me without the gates; and at the entrie + of the gates, his footmen and guard were placed on both sides of my + horse, and so brought me to the King's palace. The King sate in his + chaire, with his Counsell about him, as well the Moores as the +498 Alkaids; and, according to his order given unto me before, I there + declared my message in Spanish, and made deliverie of the Queens + Ma't's letters, and all that I spake at that present in Spanish, he + caused one of his Alkaids to declare the same to the Moores present + in the Arabic tongue; which done, he answered me againe in Spanish, + yeelding to the Queens Ma'tie great thankes, and offering himselfe + and his countrey to be at her Graces comandment; and he comanded + certaine of his counsellors to conduct me to my lodging, not being + farr from the Court. The house was faire, after the fashion of that + countrey, being dayly well furnished with all kinde of victuall at + the Kings charge. The same night he sent for me to the court, and I + had conference with him about the space of two houres; where I + throughly declared the charge co'mitted unto me from her Ma'tie, + finding him conformable, willing to pleasure, and not to urge her + Ma'tie with any demands, more then conveniently she might willingly + consent unto, hee knowing that out of his countrey the Realme of + England might be better served with lackes, then he in comparison + from us. Further, he gave me to understand, that the King of Spain + had sent unto him for a licence that an Embassadour of his might + come into his countrey, and had made great meanes, that if the + Queens Ma'tie of England sent any unto him, that he would not give + him any credit or entertainment; albeit (said he) I know what the +499 King of Spaine, and what the Queene of England and her realme is; + for I neither like of him, nor of his religion, being so governed + by the Inquisition, that he can doe nothing of himselfe. Therefore, + when he cometh upon the licence which I have granted, he shall well + see how little account I will make of him and Spaine, and how + greatly I will extoll you for the Queenes Ma'tie of England; he + shall not come to my presence as you have done, and shall dayly, + for I minde to accept of you as my companion, and one of my house, + whereas he shall attend twentie dayes after he hath done his + message. After the end of this speech, I delivered Sir Thomas + Gresham's letters; when as he tooke me by the hand, and led me + downe a long court to a palace, where there ranne a faire fountaine + of water, and there sitting himselfe in a chaire, he comanded me to + sitt downe in another, and there called for such simple musicians + as he had. Then I presented him with a greate base lute, which he + most thankfully accepted, and then he was desirous to hear of the + musicians; and I tolde him, that there was great care had to + provide them, and that I did not doubt but upon my returne they + should come with the first ship. He is willing to give them good + entertainment, with provision of victuall, and to let them live + according to theire law and conscience, wherein he urgeth none to + the contrary. I finde him to be one that liveth greatly in the fear +500 of God, being well exercised in the Scriptures, as well in the Old + Testament, as also in the New, and he beareth a greater affection + to our nation then to others, because of our religion, which + forbiddeth worship of idols; and the Moores called him the + Christian King. The same night, being the first of June, I + continued with him till twelve of the clock, and he seemed to have + so good likeing of me, that he tooke from his girdle a short + dagger, being sett with 200 stones rubies and Turkies, and did + bestowe it upon me; and so I, being conducted, returned to my + lodging for that time. The next day, because he knew it to be + Sunday, and our Sabboth day, he did let me rest; but on the Monday + in the afternoone he sent for me, and I had conference with him + againe, and musick. Likewise on the Tuesday, by three of the clock, + he sent for me into his garden, finding him layed upon a silk bed, + complaining of a sore leg; yet, after long conference, he walked + into another orchard, whereas having a fair banketing house, and a + great water, and a new gallie in it, he went aboard the gallie, and + tooke me with him, and passed the space of two or three houres, + shewing the great experience he had in gallies, wherein (as he + said) he had exercised himselfe eighteene yeares in his youth. + After supper he shewed me his horses, and other co'modities that he + had about his house; and since that night I have not seene him, for + that he hath kept in with his sore legg; but he hath sent to me +501 dayly. The 18th of June, at six of the clock at night, I had againe + audience of the King, and I continued with him, till midnight, + having debated, as well for the Queenes co'mission, as for the + well-dealing with her merchants for their traffick here in these + parts, saying, he would do much more for the Queenes Ma'tie and the + Realme; offering that all English ships with her subjects may with + good securitie enter into his ports and dominions, as well in trade + of merchandize, as for victuall and water, as also in time of warr + with any of her enemies, to bring in prizes, and to make sales as + occasion should serve, or else to depart againe with them at theire + pleasure. Likewise for all English ships that shall passe along his + Coast of Barbary, and threw the Streights into the Levant seas, and + so to the Turks dominions, and the King of Algiers, as his owne; + and that he would write to the Turke, and to the King of Algiers, + his letters for the well using of our ships and goods. Also, that + hereafter no Englishman that by any meanes may be taken captives, + shall be sold within any of his dominions; whereupon I declared + that the Queenes Ma'tie, accepting of these his offers, was pleased + to confirme the intercourse and trade of our Merchants within this + his countrey, as also to pleasure him with such commodities as he + should have need of, to furnish the necessities and wants of his + country in trade of merchandize, so as he required nothing contrary + to her honour and law, and the breach of league with the Christian +502 Princes her neighbours. The same night I presented the King with + the case of combes, and desired his Ma'tie to have speciall regard + that the ships might be Iaden back againe, for that I found little + store of salt-peter in readinesse in John Bampton's hands; he + answered me, that I should have all the assistance therein that he + could, but that in[294] Sus he thought to have some store in his + house there, as also that the Mountainers had made much in a + readinesse; I requested that he would sende downe, which he + promised to doe. The eighteenth day I was with him againe, and so + continued there till night; and he shewed me his house, with + pastime in ducking with water spaniels, and baiting bulls with his + English doggs. At this time I moved him againe for the sending + downe to Sus, which he granted to doe; and the 24th day there + departed Alcayde Mammie, with Lionell Egerton, and Rowland Guy, to + Sus; and carried with them, for our accounts and his company, the + Kings letters to his brother Muly Hammet, and Alcayde Shavan, and + the Viceroy. The 23d day the King sent me out of Morocco to his + garden called Shersbonare, with his guard and Alcayde Mamoute; and + the 24th at night I came to the Court to see a Morris-dance, and a + play of his Alkaids; he promised me audience the next day, being +503 Tuesday, but he putt it off 'till Thursday; and the Thursday at + night I was sent for to the King after supper, and then he sent + Alcayde Rodwan and Alcayde Gowry to conferr with me; but, after a + little talk, I desired to be brought to the King for my dispatch. + And being brought to him,. I preferred two bills of John Bampton's, + which he had made for provision of salt-peter, also two bills for + the quiet traffique of our English Merchants, and bills for sugars + to be made by the Jewes, as well for the debts past, as hereafter, + and for good order in the Ingenios. Also I moved him againe for the + salt-peter, and other dispatches, which he referred to be agreed + upon by the two Alcaydes. But the Fryday, being the 20th, the + Alcaydes could not intend it, and upon Saturday Alcayde Rodwan fell + sick; so on Sunday wee made meanes to the King, and that afternoone + I was sent for to conferre upon the bargaine with the Alcaydes and + others; but did not agree. Upon Tuesday I wrote a letter to the + King for my dispatch; and the same afternoone I was called againe + to the Court, and referred all things to the King, accepting his + offer of salt-peter. That night againe the King had me into his + gallie, and the spaniels did hunt the duck. The Thursday I was + appointed to weigh the 300 quintals grosse of salt-peter,, and that + afternoone the Tabybe came unto me to my lodging, shewing me that + the King was offended with John Bampton for divers causes. The +504 Sunday night late, being the 7th July, I got the King to forgive + all to John Bampton, and the King promised me to speake againe with + me upon Monday. Upon Tuesday I wrote to him againe for my dispatch, + and then he sent Fray Lewes to me, and said, that he had order to + write. Upon Wednesday I wrote againe; and he sent me word that I + should come and be dispatched, so that I should depart upon Fryday + without faile, being the 12th July. So the Fryday after, according + to the Kings order and appointment, I went to the Court; and + whereas motion and petition was made for the confirmac'on of the + demands which I had preferred, they were all granted, and likewise + which were on the behalfe of our English Merchants requested, were + with great favour and readinesse yeilded unto. And whereas the + Jewes there resident, were to our men in certaine round sum'es + indebted, the Emperor's pleasure and co'mandment was, that they + should without further excuse or delay pay and discharge the same. + And thus at length I was dismissed with great honour and speciall + countenance, such as hath not ordinarily bene shewed to other + Embassadors of the Christians. And touching the private affairs + intreated upon betwixt her Ma'tie and the Emperour, I had letters + from him to satisfie her Highnesse therein. So to conclude, having + received the like honourable conduct from his Court, as I had for + my part at my first landing, I imbarked myself with my foresaid +505 company; and arriving not long after in England, I repaired to her + Ma'ties Court, and ended my embassage to her Highnesses good + liking, with relation of my service performed." + + [Footnote 293: The Tensift.] + + [Footnote 294: Great quantities of superior saltpetre are + produced at Terodant in Suse.] + + _Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L. and E._ + + Sir, London, 17th January, 1818. + + Having read, with considerable satisfaction, your very able and + judicious dissertation respecting Africa, in the new Supplement to + the Encyclopedia Britannica, I will take the liberty to offer some + animadversions that have occurred to me in the perusal of that very + interesting article. + + _Bahr Kûlla_ I conceive to be an immerged country, of considerable + extent, similar to Wangara; for the name, which is Arabic, implies + as much. The correct orthography, translated literally into English + is _Bahr Kûlha_, which signifies the sea, wholly or altogether, + implying, therefore, an alluvial country. + + Respecting goat-skins dyed red or yellow, these are not brought by + caravans from central Africa to Marocco, but are manufactured at + Marocco, Fas, Mequinas, and Terodant the metropolis of Suse, from + which manufactories they are conveyed to the interior regions for + sale. Goat-skins, with the hair, in the raw state only, are + exported from Mogodor to England. +506 + When Moore asserted that there was no such river as the Niger, he + evidently meant that the _natives of Africa_ knew it not by that + name; which is undoubtedly correct; for the word being an European + word, it would not be known in Africa: but its translation into + Arabic is _Bahar El Abeed_, i. e. the river of Negroes. Edrissi + called it Niger, from the same motive, viz. because it was so named + by _Europeans_, and by them only. + + I conceive that the hypothesis which has been credited by some, + viz. that there is no receptacle for the two Niles, between Cashna + and Timbuctoo, must now necessarily fall to the ground; since the + sea of Sudan, first declared by me to be between Cashna and + Timbuctoo, and since confirmed by Ali Bey, and by Park, in his + second journey, can (as I apprehend) no longer be doubted: and it + is not improbable that this is the common receptacle of the Nile of + the West and the Nile of the East. This hypothesis is strengthened + by the testimony of the Shereef Imhammed, who has said, that he + himself saw the Nile, at Cashna, flowing so rapidly westward, that + vessels could not stem the current. If this be true, the [295]_Ba + Sea Feena_ of Park, which is only another name for the _Sea of + Sudan_, must lie west of Cashna, and, probably, about the same +507 point that it is stated by me to be situated, viz. fifteen journeys + of horse-travelling, or from 400 to 450 British miles east of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 295: The Arabic orthography is _Bahar S'feena_ which + being literally translated into English, signifies the Sea of + Ships.] + + The word _Djinawa_ is the African word that denominates Guinea, but + I cannot imagine that it was ever intended to signify Gana. (See + Supplement to Encyclopædia Britannica, p. 104.) + + You say there are, in Africa, two rivers to which the name of + _Niger_ has been given: this is evidently an error, but possibly of + the press only. There are, however, two rivers in Africa to which + the name of _Neel_ has been given. + + The Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p. 540, declare + that the Nile is a name applied in Africa to any great river; but + as this assertion is calculated to produce confusion in the + geographical elucidation of the interior of that continent, and as + it certainly is not the fact, I must here beg leave to contradict + it, and declare that there are absolutely but two rivers in Africa, + that bear the name Neel or Nile, viz. the Neel El Kabeer, Neele + Sudan, or Neel El Abeed, i.e. the great Nile, the Nile of Sudan or + the Nile of the Negroes; and Neele Masser, i.e. the Nile of + Egypt.[296] + + [Footnote 296: _Nile_ is a French term, and loses its proper + pronunciation and is unintelligible when pronounced by an + Englishman to an African; but if written _Neel_, and pronounced + by an Englishman, it is intelligible.] + + If my knowledge of the African Arabic can be of any service in +508 giving you the signification or correct orthography of African + words, in the event of your favouring the public with a future + edition of your New Supplement to the Encyclopædia Britannica, any + information that I can communicate to you will be very much at your + service; and you may in this and in any other respect that regards + Africa freely command my services. + + + _Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels + in Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D., by Hugh Murray, Esq. + F.R.S.E._ + + TO HUGH MURRAY ESQ. F.R.S.E. + + Sir, + London, Feb. 1818. + + You have certainly rendered to your country a service, in the + publication of "The Travels and Discoveries in Africa, of the late + John Leyden," the perusal of which has been to me a fund of + instruction and entertainment; it is a most valuable work, and such + a one as was wanted by the literary world, inasmuch as the + judicious collection of the matter forms a most valuable epitome of + African knowledge, collecting what was before distributed into many + folios. + + I anticipate that the information in this work, communicated to the + public, will soon be circulated, and you will be called upon to + supply a second edition. In the mean time, I take the liberty of + submitting to your perusal a few cursory observations which I have +509 made during the perusal of it, on the accuracy of which you may + assuredly rely. These apply for the most part to Arabian words, + which have been by the moderns, as well as the ancients variously + corrupted and mutilated. Desirous (for the information of those who + really seek after African knowledge) that this book will pass + through many editions. I am, &c. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Cursory Observations_. + + "The _Ludaia_, are not inhabitants of _Ludama_, they are a very + numerous and warlike tribe of Arabs, inhabiting the Sahara, of + which there are two or three emigrations or encampments in + different and distant parts of Sahara; the Emperor of Marocco has + some thousands of them in his army, and they are esteemed (next to + the negroes, called Abeed Seedy Bukaree) his best troops. See the + Map of the tracts from Fas and Arguin to Timbuctoo, facing page 1. + Lat. N. 24°. long. W. 3°. + + "This serpent is the _Bûska_, described in Jackson's enlarged + Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109. Providence has afforded to man an + opportunity of evading the attack of this deadly animal; for when + it coils itself up, and by the strength of its tail darts forward + fifteen or twenty yards at once, the person attacked, by watching + vigilantly its motions, evades the attack, by moving only a short + distance from the right line, in which it is prepared to dart +510 forwards; neither can the _Bûska_ govern itself in the extent of + its movement, but necessarily goes as far as its strength will + permit, and then coils itself up again in a circular form, again + erects its head, and darts a second time to its object. I have + conversed with Arabs, who have been attacked by this monster, and + they have assured me, that, by vigilantly watching its motion, and + the direction of its head, when preparing to dart forward, they may + escape its attack.[297] + + "It is not correct to assert that _Nasari is a general term_, + applied to infidels in Muhamed; it is applied to Christians only. + _Kaffer is the general term_ applied to all who have not faith in + the Arabian Prophet.[298] + + "That which you call the Talk Tree, is the tree which produces the + Barbary gum; the name is _talh_.[299]" + + [Footnote 297: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 306.] + + [Footnote 298: Ibid, p. 429.] + + [Footnote 299: Ibid. 204.] + + "The _Keydenah_.--This is the Sudanic name for the tree which + produces the Argan nut, or olive, the _kernel_ of which resembles a + bitter almond, and from _it_, not from the shell, they extract the + oil, so celebrated for frying fish, and for burning; a pint of + which will afford light as long as two pints of olive oil. + + "The She plant, or properly Sheh is not wild thyme, nor does it + resemble it, it is the wormseed plant, the seed of which is an +511 article of exportation, from the ports of Marocco, The sheh + resembles the absynthum. The wild thyme is called _zatar_, also an + article of exportation from the ports of the Marocco empire.[300] + + "The _Alsharra_ signifies the Book of Laws of Muhamed.[301] + + "_Gebel Ramlie_ should be written _Jibbel Rummelie_, i.e. the Sandy + Mountain.[302] + + "The Elwah [303]Elgarbie is inhabited by the Maggrebee Arabs. My + late friend, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother to Muley Soliman, the + reigning Emperor of Marocco, had a very large estate in this Wah, + called Santariah. In the 1793d year of the Christian era, he sent + his friend and servant Alkaid Muhammed ben Abd Saddack, late + governor of Mogodor, to effect the sale of this estate. He was + absent on this embassy two years and three months.[304] + + "_Sheb_ is the Arabic for alum, the correct orthography is + _Shib_.[305] + + "_Marybucks_ should be _Marabet_, i.e. Priests, or Holy + Muhamedans.[306] + + "The primitive plough is used in all the African countries + inhabited by the Arabs, or their descendants; the negroes, however, + use the hoe." [307] + + [Footnote 300: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 312.] + + [Footnote 301: Ibid, p. 334.] + + [Footnote 302: Ibid, p. 398.] + + [Footnote 303: Let the African traveller be careful to + pronounce these g's guttural خ] + + [Footnote 304: Ibid, p. 399.] + + [Footnote 305: Ibid. ibid.] + + [Footnote 306: Ibid. p. 225.] + + [Footnote 307: Ibid. p. 227.] +512 + "The Mouselmines is a French corruption of the term Muselman, i.e. + Mohamedans. + + "Mongearts, i.e. Moguert, the g guttural. + + "Ouadelim, i.e. Wooled Deleim, or the sons of Deemy. + + "Labdessebah, i.e. Woled Abbusebah, 'the sons of Abbusebah.'[308] + + "Wed de Non, i.e. Wedinoon. + + "The herb, with a decoction of which they dye their nails and + hands, is called by the Arabs _El Henna_: it imparts a coolness and + softness to the hands, and diminishes the excessive perspiration + incident to warm climates.[309] + + "Hooled ben Soliman ought to be Woled ben Soliman, 'the sons of the + sons of Soliman;' and Benioled, should be Ben El Waled, 'the sons + of Elwaled.'[310] + + "The small beautiful species of deer, is the _El Horreh:_ it is an + inhabitant of the confines of the Saharah; it is said never to lie + down. It produces the anti-poison called bezoar stone, (called in + the Arabic _Bide El Horrek_, i.e. the testicle of the Horreh.) This + is an article of commerce at Santa Cruz, and Wedinoon. The back and + sides of the skins of these animals are of a red brown, and of a + vivid white underneath." [311] + + [Footnote 308: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 262.] + + [Footnote 309: Ibid. p. 291.] + + [Footnote 310: Ibid. p. 299.] + + [Footnote 311: Ibid. p. 303.] + +513 + TO JAMES GREY JACKSON, ESQ. + + Sir, + + Edinburgh, May 3. 1818. + + I have lately been favoured with two communications from you:--the + one a letter to Mr. Napier, editor of the Encyclopædia Britannica, + on the subject of the article _Africa_, of which I was the author, + and which Mr. Napier, therefore, put into my hands; the other, a + letter direct to myself, on the subject of my edition of "Leyden's + Discoveries in Africa." I fully intended to have answered them + before now, but the pressure of other business, with the wish to + bestow upon them the leisurely consideration which they merited, + has hitherto prevented me. I feel much gratified by the favourable + opinion which you express of what I have done on this subject, and + much obliged to you for your communications, and offers of further + information. I experienced very much the disadvantage arising from + a want of knowledge of the languages of North Africa, with which + you appear to have a _very extensive acquaintance. Indeed, several + of the etymologies which you have given, are very interesting_. I + was particularly pleased to receive that of the term _Ba Sea + Feena_, though I cannot conceal that it tends to strengthen the + doubts which I have entertained of its applying to the sea on the + Gold Coast. The distance, the direction southwards, the Christians, + the motion one way and another, and even the ships, are all +514 circumstances which would agree. There are arguments, however, + against it; and it is certain that Park did not so understand it. + Do you think there is any chance that the Bahr Soudan could be the + Gulf of Guinea? + + If you are acquainted with any circumstances which could tend to + confirm or refute the narrative of Sidi Hamet, as given by Riley, + or throw light upon Riley's general credibility; or if you have + ever heard any report of such a city as _Wassanah_, I should feel + particularly obliged to you for communicating such information: and + whenever I find myself at a loss, I shall gladly avail myself of + the liberality with which you show yourself disposed to impart the + knowledge of which you have become possessed. + + I shall communicate this letter to Mr. Napier; and it is but fair + to mention, that, from the circumstances already stated, I am + solely responsible for the too long delay which has taken place in + answering your letter to him, as well as that to myself. + + HUGH MURRAY. + + _On the Niger and the Nile._ + + London, 7th April, 1820. + + In the 25th number of the Quarterly Review, (article Park's + Travels,) the hypothesis there laid down as almost indisputable, is +515 the non-continuity of the two Niles of Africa, or (according to the + European phraseology of the day) of the Niger and the Nile. + + This hypothesis founded on the opinion of Major Rennel, carries + with it no evidence whatever, but the speculative theory of that + learned geographer. The identity or connection of the two Niles, + and the consequent water communication between[312] Cairo and + Timbuctoo receives (supposing the Quarterly Review to be correct), + as our intelligence respecting Africa increases, additional + confirmation: and even the Quarterly Reviewer, who denominated the + opinion recorded by me, the gossipping stories of Negroes, (_vide_ + Quarterly Review, No. 25, p. 140.) now favours this opinion! + + The Quarterly Reviewer appreciates Burckhardt's information on this + subject, and depreciates mine, _although both are derived from the + same sources of[313] intelligence, and confirm one another_: the + reviewer says, Mr. Burckhardt has revived a question of older date; + viz. "that the Niger of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are one and the + same river: this general testimony to a physical fact can be shaken + only by direct proof to the contrary." + + [Footnote 312: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 310.] + + [Footnote 313: _i. e_. Intelligence from natives of Africa.] + + This is all very well: I do not object to the Quarterly Reviewer + giving up an opinion which he finds no longer tenable; but when I + see in the same review (No. 44, p. 481.) the following words,--"we +516 give no credit whatever to the report received by Mr. Jackson, of a + person (several Negroes[314], it should be) having performed a + voyage by water from Timbuctoo to Cairo," I cannot but observe with + astonishment, that the Reviewer believes Burckhardt's report, that + they are the same river, when, at the same time he does not believe + mine. + + [Footnote 314: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 312.] + + Is there not an inconsistency here, somewhat incompatible with the + impartiality which _ought_ to regulate the works of criticism? I + will not for a moment suppose it to have proceeded from a spirit of + animosity, which I feel myself unconscious of deserving. But the + reviewer further says, the objection to the identity of the Niger + and the Nile, is grounded on the incongruity of their periodical + inundations, or on the rise and fall of the former river not + corresponding with that of the latter. I do not comprehend whence + the Quarterly Reviewer has derived this information; I have always + understood the direct contrary, which I have declared in the + enlarged editions of my account of Marocco, page 304, which has + been confirmed by a most intelligent African traveller, Ali Bey, + (for which see his travels, page 220.) + + I may be allowed to observe, that although the Quarterly Reviewer + has changed his opinion on this matter, I have invariably + maintained mine, founded as it is on the concurrent testimony of + the best informed and most intelligent native African travellers, +517 and I still assert, on the same foundation, _the identity of the + two Niles, and their continuity of waters_. + + I have further to remark what will most probably ere long prove + correct; viz. that the _Bahar Abiad_[315], that is to say, the + river that passes through the country of Negroes, between Senaar + and Donga, is an erroneous appellation, originating in the general + ignorance among European travellers of the African Arabic, and that + the proper name of this river is Bahar Abeed, which is another term + for the river called the Nile-el-Abeed, which passes south of + Timbuctoo towards the east (called by Europeans the Niger). + + It therefore appears to me, and I really think it must appear to + every unbiassed investigator of African geography, that every iota + of African discovery, made successively, by Hornemann[316], + Burckhardt, and others, tends to confirm _my water communication + between Timbuctoo and Cairo_, and the theorists and speculators in + African geography, who have heaped hypothesis upon hypothesis, + error upon error, who have raised splendid fabrics upon pillars of + ice, will ere long close their book, and be compelled, by the force + of truth and experience, to admit the fact stated about twelve + years ago by me in my account of Marocco, &c. viz. _that the Nile +518 of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are identified by a continuity of + waters, and that a water communication is provided by these two + great rivers from Timbuctoo to Cairo_; and moreover, that the + general African opinion, _that the Neel-el-Abeed_ (Niger) + _discharges itself into the_ (Bahar el Mâleh) _Salt Sea, signifies + neither more nor less than that it discharges itself at the Delta + in Egypt, into the Mediterranean Sea_! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + [Footnote 315: Bahar Abiad signifies White River; Bahar Abeed + signifies River of Negroes.] + + [Footnote 316: _Vide_ my letter in Monthly Magazine on this + subject for March, 1817, p. 124.] + + + + + APPENDIX + + BEING HISTORICAL FRAGMENTS IN ELUCIDATION OF + THE FOREGOING PAGES. + +_First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo.--Timbuctoo and Guago captured +by Muley Homed, (son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley +Melk[317], or Muley Moluck,) in the 16th Century, (about the Year +1580_.) + + [Footnote 317: See the Spectator, No. 349.] + +Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Moluck, in 1577, A.C. fought the +celebrated battle with Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, near Alkassar, +which is at a short distance from L'Araich, wherein Don Sebastian was +killed; and Abdelmelk being, before the battle, extremely ill, his son +Muley Hamed went to his litter, to communicate to the Emperor his +father, that the Moors had gained the victory, when he found his father +dead and cold. Muley Hamed concealed this event till the battle was +over; and was then proclaimed Emperor, and reigned twenty-six years: he +cultivated the arts and sciences, mathematics and astronomy, which last +was of essential service to him in crossing the Sahara to Timbuctoo and +Guago; during which perilous journey the compass is so indispensable, +that there is no certainty of travelling without it. He lost some +thousands in this expedition; but if gold could recompense the waste of +human life, he was rewarded for his journey of abstinence and privation +across the Sahara, for he brought from Guago seventy-five quintals, and +from Timbuctoo sixty quintals, of gold-dust, making together one hundred +and thirty-five quintals, or 16,065 lb. English avoir-du-poids weight of +gold. + +_A Library of Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards,--Contests among +Christians reprimanded._ + +Muley Sidan, son of Muley Hamed, disputed the throne of Marocco, A.C. +1611, with three brothers, one of whom was supported by the Spaniards, +whose succour was purchased by his delivering into their hands the port +of L'Araich, soon after which they gained a naval victory over the +forces of Sidan, which was very disastrous to the Africans; for the +Spaniards, besides other plunder, got possession of 3000 Arabic books, +on theology, philosophy, and medicine. Sidan, however, notwithstanding +this disaster, maintained his right to the crown. He was of a liberal +and charitable mind. He protected and granted to the Christians various +privileges; but _he ordered that Christians of all sects, and +denominations should live in peace one with another_. + +One day, some (_Userah_) Christian slaves of Provence, in France, who +were Catholics, had a controversial dispute with others from Rochelle, +who were Calvinists. This dispute ended in a violent contest, +accompanied with blows on either side; this scene excited the curiosity +of the Muselmen, who were surprised to see Christians thus fight among +themselves on points of their own law! The report of this battle was +carried to Sidan, who ordered all these slaves to be brought before him. +He condemned some to a bastinado, which was inflicted in his presence. +He then addressed them thus:--"I command you all, on pain of death, not +to dispute in future on the various dogmas of your law: every one has +the presumption to think _himself_ right; and as I allow every +individual in my dominions to follow the religion that he chooses for +himself; _slaves ought to have among themselves the same toleration_". + +_Muley El Arsheed, (a second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan.)_ + +This Sultan preceded the renowned Muley Ismael, on the throne of +Marocco: he united to great ability the most ferocious disposition, and +was continually inebriated.--He crossed the Sahara to Timbuctoo, with a +numerous army, about the year of Christ 1670; proceeding to _Suse_, he +laid siege to the Sanctuary of _Seedi Aly ben Aidar_, near _Ilirgh_: +Seedi Aly, making his escape in disguise, fled to Sudan, whither he was +followed by Muley El Arsheed, who, on his arrival on the confines of +Sudan, between Timbuctoo and Jinnie, was met by a numerous host of +Negroes, commanded by a black sultan: the Emperor demanded Aly ben +Aidar; but the sultan of Bambarra replied, that, as he had claimed his +protection, it would be an infringement on the laws of hospitality to +deliver him up, adding, that he desired to know if the views of El +Arsheed were hostile or not; to which the latter replied, after +endeavouring in vain to procure the person of Aly, that he was not come +hostilely, but was about to return, which he forthwith did: and the +Bambareen sultan, having received from Aly two beautiful renegade +virgins, was so much flattered with the present, that he promised him +any thing that he should ask; whereupon, he requested permission to go +to Timbuctoo, and to settle there with his numerous followers; which +being granted, he proceeded thither, and having established a Moorish +garrison, resided there several, months, and afterwards returned to +Barbary, bringing with him many thousand Bambareen negroes: but, on his +reaching Suse, he heard of the death of Muley El Arsheed, and having +then no farther occasion for these negroes, he dismissed them. They went +to various parts of the country, serving the inhabitants in order to +procure daily subsistence; but the arch-politician Muley Ismael, who had +then recently been proclaimed as his successor, ordered them to be +collected together, and incorporated in his negro army, which was, +however, before this, very numerous, consisting for the most part of +blacks, brought away from Sudan by Muley El Arsheed the preceding year. +The Sultan Ismael also seized this opportunity of establishing his +authority at Timbuctoo, and he met with little or no opposition in +putting that place under contribution. Having sent fresh troops to +occupy the Moorish garrison there, the inhabitants were glad to make a +contribution, in exchange for the protection and power which it afforded +them; for previous to this, they had been subject to continual +depredations, from the Arabs of the adjacent country, to whom they had +been compelled to pay tribute, as a security for their caravans, which +were constantly passing the country of these Arabs, who are of the race +of Brabeesh. In the year 1727, A.C. when Ismael died, it is reported +that he possessed an immense quantity of gold, of the purity of which, +his gold coins, to be seen at this day at Timbuctoo, bear testimony; it +is also said, that the massive bolts of his palaces were of pure gold, +as well as the utensils of his kitchens. After his decease, however, the +tribute was discontinued, and the Moorish garrison at Timbuctoo, +intermarrying with the natives, and dispersing themselves in the +neighbouring country, has given to Timbuctoo that tincture of Muselman +manners, which they are known to possess; their descendants forming, at +this period, a considerable portion of the population of Timbuctoo. + +_Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan_. + +Muley Ismael died of an abscess in 1727, and was succeeded by his +youngest son Muley Hamed Dehebby, a most avaricious prince, whose +treasure, collected in his government during the life of his father, +amounted to ten millions; to which was now added his father's treasury, +amounting to fifty millions, besides jewels and diamonds to a much +larger amount. + +Dehebby[318], sanguinary and cruel when sober, was mild, affable, and +humane when intoxicated: unlike Muselmen, he believed not in +predestination, but had always several surgeons and doctors in his +suite, and consulted them with the most unlimited confidence when ill. +He decorated the palace of Marocco: in one of the apartments of the +seraglio, of which he had had painted, in a superior style, the twelve +signs of the zodiac; for which his ignorant and bigoted subjects accused +him of having conspired against the Deity, in imitating, by gross and +ill-formed images, the works of the Almighty. This prince was an +intolerable drunkard; so that the Marabets and chiefs of the empire +called Abdelmelk to the throne, whom they enabled to take possession of +Mequinas. This prince, anticipating the revenge of Dehebby, proposed to +deprive him of his eye-sight; but the Marabets and chiefs opposed this +resolution and replied to him in the following words:--"It is not for +his crimes that we have deposed thy brother, but for his continual +intoxication, which prevented him from watching over the government and +his officers: he has therefore only been guilty of weakness, which is +not a punishable crime." Abdelmelk dared not push his point, but was +contented to send his brother to the (_Bled Shereef_), country of +princes, i.e. Tafilelt. Before Dehebby was dethroned, he marched with a +numerous army across Sahara, to Timbuctoo, of which he took possession, +and brought home immense quantities of gold. + + [Footnote 318: His proper name was Muley Hamed ben Ismael, the name + Dehebby is figurative of his riches in gold.] + +1730.--Muley Hamed Dehebby dying, should have been succeeded by his son +Muley Bouffer; but money and intrigue gave power to Abdallah, a son of +Muley Ismael, who was proclaimed in spite of the efforts of his nephew, +whom he attacked at Terodant, the capital of Suse. Bouffer was taken, +together with a Marabet, his confidential friend and counsellor. +Abdallah ordered them both to be brought before him.--"Thou art young," +said he to his nephew; "thou hadst imprudently undertaken more than thou +couldst accomplish; and in consideration of thy youth and inexperience, +I pardon thee, but I will be revenged of thy counsellor." Then turning +himself to the Marabet, "Thou, art a rebel," said he. "Didst thou +imagine that thy sacred character, which thou hast abused against thy +(_Seed_) Lord or King would prevent him from punishing thee? Let us see +if thy sanctity will turn the edge of my sword."--In uttering these +words, he struck off the saint's head. + + + + + I N D E X. + + * * * * * + + +A. + +ABDELMELK, the prince, moral reflection on his expensive apparel, +79. Is sent to Tafilelt, 80. +_Abolition_ of Slavery depends on the Africans themselves, not on +our naval force or operations, 270. +_Abstinence_ experienced in the Sahara, 353. Means used to support +it. Effects of, 354. +_Abbuselah Woled_, Arabs of, 138. +_Abdrahaman ben Nassar_, bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Abdsalam_, prince, departs for Tafilelt, through Draha and Bled el +jereed, 149. +_Abeed_, 481. Seedi Bukaree, emperor's body guard, 481. +_Aboukir_, battle of, its consequence to muselmen, 101. +_Acephali_, 198. +_Africa_, plan for the discovery of, 201. +_African_ Association, Institution, &c. recommended to unite their +energies and operations to cultivate a commercial intercourse with +Africa, 228. The same recommended an a large scale, 249. African +Company, a plan for, 251. African Association, disastrous +expeditions of, 258. An union of the African interests beneficial, +271. African duplicity exemplified, 293. African Association might +find the son of Ali Bey an acquisition in promoting their views, 304. +_African_ names, how pronounced, 491. +_Agadeer_, or Santa Cruz, port of, opened to Dutch commerce, 55. +Apprehensions at Mogodor from the establishment of Santa Cruz, 56. +Conveniently situated for the markets of Sudan. Denominated the gate +of Sudan, 56. Port of, farmed by Muley Ismael, 57. Author's arrival +at, to open the port to European commerce. Wretched state of its +inhabitants. Honourable reception of the author there, 59. +Disgraceful custom abolished by the author, 60. Propensity to +commerce among the people of Suse. Sanctuary at the entrance of the +town. Privilege of riding in and out of the town established by the +author, for Christians of all denominations, 61. Commercial road +made by the author down the mountain to facilitate the shipment of +merchandise, 62. The spirit of the natives in working at it. Happy +influence of commerce and industry on the people. Portuguese tower +in the neighbourhood, 63. Description of the town, 64. Strength of, +and convenient situation for a depôt, 65. Mitferes, depositaries for +water, 65. Attempt of the Danes to establish a colony in its +vicinage, at Agadeer Arba. Battery at, 66. Safe road for shipping. +Inhabitants friendly to the English, 67. Port of, shut by the +Emperor, and the garrison and merchants ordered to go to Marocco, +and from thence to quit the country or establish at Mogodor, 79. +Negociation for the port of, from the emperor, 246. +_Agricultural_ property, division of, 330. Agriculture, 339. +_Aisawie_, or charmers of serpents described, 430. +_Ait Attar_, or Attarites, an independent kabyl or clan, 311. +_Akka_, 7. Depôt for camels, 248. +_Akkaba_, kaffilas, or caravans to Timbuctoo, where eligible to be +established, 263. +_Akkaba_, what, 345. +_Akkad_, its signification, 411. +_Alk Sudan_, what, 345. +_Altitude_ of the Atlas mountains, 93, 94. +_Ali Bey_, an account of; 297. Suspicions entertained respecting +him. His magnificent mode of living. Excites the suspicion of the +governor of Marocco, 300. He is prevented from visiting the Atlas +mountains, 301. He is favoured by the emperor, 302. Stratagem +practised to ascertain what religion he followed. Ordered to embark +at Laraich. Is separated from his wife. Her conduct. He predicts an +eclipse, 303. Passes for a learned man. Suspected to be an agent of +Bonaparte. His son resides at Fas, patronised by the Marabet Muley +Dris or Idris, 304. +_Algiers_, attack of, recommended to the Emperor of Marocco, 283. +_Almonds_, plantations of, 74. +_Ambassador_, British, the author's interview with. Great +honor shown to him on his entry into Tangier, 127. +_Amber_, manufactured imitation of, at Fas, 126. 216. +_Amaranites_, or Ait Amaran, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Amak_, the poet, his sumptuous style of living, 353. +_Amorites_, of the, 475. +------, or Ait Amor, 122. Descendants of the ancient Amorites, 124. +Anecdotes of, 193. +_Amusements_ of Europeans at Marocco, 89. +_Anachronism_ of the author misapplied, 442. +_Angola_, natives of, how converted to Christianity, 442. +_Anti-commercial_ system, 211. +_Antiperistasis_ of the Africans, how promoted, 230. +_Antimony_ mines, 331. +_Anecdote_ of an Emperor, 307. +_Anecdotes_, fragments, and notes, 276. +_Antithesis_, a favourite figure with the Arabs, 349. +_Apparel_ of the emperor, plain and simple, 79. +_Arabs_, cookery of, 64. Riches of, in what they consist, 247. Dance +and music, 140. Abstinence of, 141. Beauty of their women, 142. +Patriarchal life of, 143. 196. Arab royalty personified, 195. +Customs of, 244. Of Sahara, hostile to those who do not understand +their language, 262. The manners of, resemble those of the +patriarchal ages, 276. The study of their language and customs the +best comment on the Old Testament, 276. Their territory and origin, +328. Decay of science and arts among, 352. +------, sheiks of, hold themselves accountable for the property, +baggage, &c. of travellers, 233. +_Arabic_ document distributed by Mr. Bowdich in Africa, to the +natives, unintelligible, 492. +------, language, on the, 471. The language of Palestine resembles +that of West Barbary, 473. +----------, general utility of, a practical knowledge of in Africa, +258. On the language, 357. Arabian music, 318. Arabic grammar, +errors in Richardson's, 351. Pure Arabic, where spoken, 351. Arabian +modes of writing, 350, Errors committed by professors of, who have +not a practical knowledge of the language, 39. +----------, universality of the, 473. +------, translations of documents in, furnished to government by the +author, 407. +------, manuscripts, 3000 taken by the Spaniards, 520. +------, interpreter, the author officiates as, with the prince Muley +Teib, 192. +_Architecture_ described, 90. Gothic prevails, 271. +_Argan_ tree, and oil of, 510. +------, trees, oil of the, productive of leprosy if not properly +prepared, 91. +_Ashantee_, intercourse through, with Timbuctoo objectionable, and +why, 249. +_Atlas_, foot of, a productive country, 74. Table land in, and +produce of, 75. Narrow defile or pass, 76. Calculated altitude of, 93. +_Attarites_, or Ait Attar, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Audiences_ of the emperor, introductory, of business, of leave or +departure, 89. +_Author's_ intelligence respecting the interior of Africa, +considered valuable, 99. +------, travels in disguise, 136. +_Azamore_, 110. + +B. + +_Bab_ Sudan, 456. +_Badge_ of distinction worn by the lepers, 91. +_Bahar_ Segrer, the Mediterranean designated by that term, 489. +------, Sudan, corroborative testimony of its situation, 450, 451, 465. +----------, situation of, 436. +------, Kulla, explanation of the term, 444. Ditto of Bahar Sudan, 448. +------, El Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, Atlantic Ocean designated by +that name, 489. +------, El Abeed, not Bahar El Abiad, 517. +_Ba_ Scafeena, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, 450, 465. +----------, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, properly +called Bahar S'feena, 506. +_Bank_, in West Barbary, recommended, 237. +_Banks_, Sir Joseph's letter to Mr. Dickson, respecting the death of +Mungo Park, a passage in it confirmed only in Mr. Jackson's +translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's account of that traveller's +death, brought by Mr. Bowdich from Ashantee, but not in Mr. Salemé's +translation, 425. The author's translation, 409. +_Barbary_, conquered by the Romans, by the Vandals, by the Greeks, +by the Arabs, 458. Partial conquest of by the Portuguese and +Spaniards, 458. +--------, travelling in, 293. +_Bashaw_ of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Bedouins_, emigration of. Camel's milk, their food, 203. Domestic +looms of. Manufactures of. Custom of, 204. Mode of living. Extempore +poetry of, 205. Manners of, 206. +_Beef_, mode of preserving for food in the desert, 349. +_Berebbers_, their contest with the emperor, 308. Their territory +and language, 327. Names of their clans or tribes, 124. Specimen of +their language, 367. +_Bernou_, etymology of, 449. +_Bism illak, and El Ham'd û lillah_, signification of, 231. +_Bonaparte_, his system respecting Africa, 229. +_Bouska_, exhibition of that monstrous serpent, 451. +_Brimstone_ mines, 331. +_British_ public, address to, 253. +_Buffé_, Dr. his medical success at Marocco, 396. He is recommended +to his majesty George the Third, and his majesty is requested, by +the emperor, to return him to Gibraltar, to reside there as the +emperor's physician, 397. +_Buhellessa_, the pretender, described, 287. He is an adept in the +occult sciences, 288. He marches with 22,000 men to attack Delemy's +castle, 289. He is vanquished and beheaded, 290. His army dispersed, +his head and feet sent to the Prince Muley Abdsalam, at Santa Cruz, +290. The prince rewards the man who killed the usurper: the author +visits the field of battle, which resembled the plains of Waterloo, 291. +_Buregreg_ river, 113. +_Burkhardt_, anticipation respecting, 449. +_Butellise_, or night-blindness, described, 332. +--------, or nyctalopia, an ophthalmia that affects our seamen in +the Mediterranean, 433. +_Butter_, melted, food in the desert, 6. + +C. + +_Camel_, the ship of the desert, 247. +_Caffer_, or Khaffer, signification of, 345. +_Cairo_, derivation of the name, 326. +_Canary_ language resembles the shelluh of Atlas, 381. +_Caravans_ accumulate as they proceed to the confines of Sahara, 4. +_Cape_ of Good Hope, how to preserve, and to improve its produce, + 339, 340. +_Cape de Verd_, compared to Ceuta, 229. +_Ceuta_, preparation for the siege of, by the emperor Muley +Yezzid, 403. +_Christians_, harmony among, necessary to precede the conversion +of Africa, 131. +_Christian_ religion, how to propagate it in Africa, 224. +--------, impediments to its propagation, 225. +--------, the influence of its principles in Africa, 227. +_Civilisation_ of Africa, the necessary result of commerce, and the +only plan by which an expectation of the conversion of the natives +to Christianity can possibly be indulged, 263. +----------, of Africa, through commerce, the only effectual means of +abolishing the slave trade, 270. +_Civil_ war prevalent in West and in South Barbary, 279. +_Characteristic_ trait of Muhamedans, 308. +_Christians_, ordered by the emperor, on pain of death, to live +peaceably with one another, 520. +_Christ_ acknowledged by muselmen, 240. +_Circumcision_, when performed among Muhamedans, 345. +_Cobas_ described, 272. +_Colonial_ produce, consequences of the cultivation of, in Senegal +by the French, 228. +_Commercial_ intercourse with Africa favourable to the propagation +of Christianity, 227. +----------, Recommended on a large scale, 249. 251. 259. +_Commercial_ adventurer in Africa more likely to succeed than a +scientific one, 259. +_Commerce_, the key of Africa, 428. +_Communication_ with Africa to be effected by the medium of +commerce, 493. +_Connubial_ customs, 313. +_Copper_ mines, 331. +_Corn_, abundant at Dar el Beida and at Fedalla, 110. + Abundance of, in West Barbary, 208. 340. +_Couriers_, confidence reposed in them, 405. +_Coffee_ of Timbuctoo, 279. +_Consuls_ of the European powers, their residence, 130. +_Congo_, Africans of, how converted to the Christian faith, 442. +_Continental_ markets of Europe, contemplation how they will be +supplied with colonial produce, 229. +_Cuscusoe_, or more properly Kuskasoe, an excellent food, mode of +preparing it, 97. +_Customs_, Muhamedan, 230. +_Cuba_, slave-trade and produce of, increased, 270. +_Customs_ of the shelluhs of Idaultit, and laws of, remarkable, 313. +_Customs_, ceremonies at funerals, 465. + +D. + +_Dances_ of the Arabs described, music of, 140. 344. +_Dates_ abundant at Tafilelt, 80. +_Dar el Beida_, a corn country, 110. +_Dead_, bodies of the, never interred in towns or in the mosques, 272. + Ceremony of interment, 273. +_Deism_, 325. +_Deef Allah_, what, 341. +_Decay_ of science and the arts among the Arabs, 352. +_Delel_, i.e. auctioneer of slaves at Marocco, 95. +_Deleim_, woled Arabs, 138. +_Decked_ vessels in the interior of Africa, 449. +_Delemy_, sheik of the Deleim Arabs, 138. + Invites the author and his companion, Signor Andrea de Christo, + to pass the night at a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, 139. + Garden of, described, 147. + Renown of, 148. + A main pillar to the throne of Marocco, 148. + Receives an exhortation from the prince Abdsalam to give battle + to the usurper Buhellessa, 288. + Dextrous in the management of a horse, 289. +_Desert_, rate of travelling through, 470. +_Dews_ of the night, how they secure themselves against, + when sleeping, 154. +_Deef Allah_, custom of uttering, 233. +_Dimenet_, in the Atlas, attacked by the emperor, 305. +_Difference_ between the oriental and occidental Arabic alphabets, 351. +_Djinawa_, definition of the name, 507. +_Distances_ from port to port, along the coast, calculated, 132. +_Discovery_ of Africa, plan for, 200. +_Disgrace_ of inhospitality, 240. +_Doctors_, itinerant, their apparatus, 242. +_Douars_, or villages of tents, described, 328. +_Draha_, province of, 2. + Hire of camels from Tafilelt to, 2. + Dates, the names of the different species, 3. + Plantations of, 3. + Inhabitants of nearly black, 2. + Character of them, 2. 7. +_Drahim_, what, 3. +_Driss Zerone Muley_, renowned sanctuary of, 118. + Author's hospitable reception there, and admission to the + adytum, 119. +_Duplicity_ of the Africans exemplified, 293. 314. + +E. + +_East_ India trade, our, how likely to be affected by French +colonisation, in Senegal, 229. +_Ebekoaits_, or Ait Ebeko, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Effah el_, exhibition of that venomous serpent, 453. +_Elephants_, 8. +_Elegant_ females, 142. +_Emperor_ admits an ambassador without prostration, and why, 282. +--------, Yezzid is wounded, and dies, 285. + His body exhumated, 286. + Compared to his majesty George the Fourth, 287. +_Emperor_, anecdote of one, 307. + His contest with the Berebbers, 308. + Letter from him to his bashaw of Suse respecting English seamen + wrecked on the western coast of Africa, 364. + Titles of H.I.M., 382. + Style of addressing him, 382. +_Emperor's_ letters, 384, 387, 392, 394, 395, 398, 402, 403, 405. +----, plan of reconciling catholics with protestants, 520. +----, table, simplicity of the furniture of, 96. +----, audience of business of the, 98. + Audience of leave in the garden of the Nile, 98. +_Embassy_, British, to Marocco, result of, 128. +_Encroachments_ of the French anticipated on our colonial arkets, 230. +_Encyclopedia_ Britannica, misapplication of an anachronism, 442. + The editor of has adopted the author's opinion respecting + the course of the Niger, 447. +_Epistolary_ correspondence, 382. +_Epistolary_ diction used by Muhamedans, 404. +_Equity_, case of, 312. +_Esshume_, See _Shume_. +_Euphorbium_ plant, 74. +_European_ merchants at Mogador in danger of being decollated + by order of the emperor, on a charge of high-treason, 284. + +F. + +_Fas_, bankrupts, how treated at, 16. + Is the metropolis of the north, 87. + Talb Cadus, 87. +----, gold thread manufactured at, of a superior quality, 126. + Manufactures, various of, 126. +----, houses of the merchants of, described, and gardens at, 275. + Library at, 324. +_Fakeers_, or muselmen-saints excite hostility between Christians + and Muhamedans, 267. +_Fedalla_, corn country, 110. +_Fig-trees_, very large, 82. +_Food_, 316. + Food of the desert, 349. +----, of the Arabs similar to that used in the days of Abraham, 243. +_Fourban_, Comte de, anecdote of, 112, 113. +_Fragments_, notes, and anecdotes, 276. +_French_ army, landing of, in Egypt, 100. +_Fruits_ of all kinds abundant at Salee and Rabat, 114, 125. +_Fruga_, town of, 76, 78. + +G. + +_Game_, plentiful. Not sold in the public market. Custom + on shooting it, 338. + Strangled, what game so called, 338. +_Garrison_ of Tangier salutes the ambassador, 127. +_Garb el_, what, so called, 2. +_Garden_, imperial, the merchants encamped at Marocco in, 88. + Names and produce of, 81. +_Geography_ of Africa, on the, 474. +_George_ IV. compared to the Emperor Muley Yezzid, 287. +----, a patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Genoa_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Girwan ait_, or Girwanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Gold dust_, gold bars, wrought gold, 67. +----, and bars, consignment of, to Fas from Timbuctoo, 347. +_Gold thread_, superior manufactory of, at Fas, 215. +----, of a superior quality, manufactured at Fas, 126. +_Government_, offer to it, to discover the remedy for nyctalopia, 335. +_Great Britain_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Grored el_, or sandy desert of Mogodor, 83. +_Gum_ Sudan, 67. + Gum Barbary, 67. + Gum Euphorbium, 74. + Gum sandrac. Gum ammoniac, 67. +----, called in England, Turkey gum Arabic, 345. +_Gun-barrels_, manufacture of, 331. +_Gutta serena_, probable remedy for the cure of, 335, 336. +Galvanism, beneficial in, 336. + +H. + +_Hawking_, and hunting the boar, sports followed by princes, 338. +_Hassûa el_, described, 242. +_Heirie_, Jackson's account of, confirmed by Colonel Fitzclarence, 489. +_Hel shual_, and Hel elkilleb, what, 198. + Hel ferdie, what, 200. +_Hemeralopia_, or night-blindness described, 332. +_Henna_, an herb with which the Arabian, Moorish, Shelluh, Berebber, + and Jewish women dye their feet, hands, and hair, and why, 512. +_Hire_ of camels from Akka to Santa Cruz, 346. +_Hogan's_ embassy to the emperor of Marocco, from queen Elizabeth, 489. +_Honey_ of Haha, 153. +_Hospitality_ of the Arabs, cultivators of west and south + Barbary, 131. 239. +----------, laws of, 340. Disinterested hospitality shown to the + author, 342. Inviolability of the laws of, among the Bedouin + Arabs, 343. +_Howara_, an Arab clan, take possession of Assouan in Egypt, 74. +-------, Arabs, hunting the boar with. They took the city + of Assouan in Egypt, about four centuries ago, 245. +_Houses_ at Marocco and elsewhere described, 274. +_Housa_, travelling there safe, 37. Great traffic on the Nile of +Sudan. Niles, how denominated, 39. Description of the country +adjacent to, 40. Situation and size of the palace of, and +description of the city of, 41. Government of; administration of +justice at, 42. Landed property, 43. Revenues of; army, 44. Trade, +45. Climate, zoology, diseases, religion, 48. Persons; dress, 49. +Buildings; manners, 50. Gold, 51. Limits of the Empire of; pottery; +Timbuctoo tributary to it, 53. Small-pox, inoculation for, 54. +_Hutton_, Catherine, her observations on an intercourse with + Africa, 264. +_Hulacu_, the Tartar, conqueror of the east. His letter to the +sultan of Aleppo, 399. +_Hypotheses_, various, respecting the Niger, 447. + +I. +_Jackson's_ report corroborated, 467. +_Idautenan_, independence of, 147. Superior grapes of, 147. + The country described, 147. +_Idiaugomoron_, 151. +_Idaultit_, customs of, 313. +_Jedrie_, the African name for the small-pox in horses, mules, + asses, and oxen, 337. +_Jelabia,_ garment so called, described, 200. +_Jerf el suffer_, the yellow cliff, 109. +_Jew_, great present made by one for the privilege of wearing + the European costume, 297. +_Jews_, a distinct race from the Africans, rendered so from + their particular laws and customs, &c. 230. +------, funeral cry of, 464. Funeral ceremonies of, 235. +------, massacre of, at Algiers, 283. How estimated in the empire + of Marocco, 328. +_Jinnie_, manufacture of gold filligrane at, 126. +_Impediments_ to our knowledge of Africa. What they are, 266. +_Inactivity_, or want of vigilance severely reprehensible in the + officers of the Marocco government, 203. +_Incorrect_ orthography of African names, 468. +_Indigo_ plant, 74. +_Interest_ of money, 237. +_Intercourse_, commercial, with Africa, recommended to be adopted + on a grand national scale, 249. 263. +_Interest_ of the Arabs of Sahara; how it would be united with a + colony on the coast, 248. +_Information_ from Africans respecting Africa, not contemptible, 434. +_Insolvency_ laws, 343. 397. +_Intoxication_, various modes of, 329. +_Invoice_ from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, 345. Ditto from ditto to + Fas, 347. +_Invasion_ of the country by Christians, a tradition of, 225. +_Invocation_ for the author's welfare made by the Fakeers of the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, 119. +----------, for the welfare of the British embassy. +_Journey_, in disguise, at a critical period, 135. +_Journies_, viz. from Mogodor to Rabat; to Mequinas; to the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone; and to the ruins of Pharaoh; + through the country of Amorites to L'Araich and Tangier, 105. +_Irrigation_, wheel for, 13. +_Iron_ mines, 331. +_Isa_ Seedy ben, fascinators of serpents, 455. +_Isawie_ (fascinators of serpents) their performance, 453. +_Justice_, moral, 306. + +K. + +_Kaaba_, Muhamed's mausoleum, so called, 273. +_Kadder Khan_, king of Turkostan, a great support to science, 352. +_Kaffer_, the application of this term, 510. +------, (or Caffre) its signification, 267. 345. +_Kassar Kabeer el_, a beautiful country, 124. +_Kereb_, what, 5. +_Key_ of Africa is commerce, 428. +_Keyma_, its definition, 307. +_Khalif Delemys_, noble conduct to the prince Abdsalsm, 288. +_Kibla_, i. e. the tomb of Muhamed, 9. +_Kiffen_, signification of, 273. +_King_ George IV. compared to the late emperor of Marocco, Muley + Yezzid, 287. A patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Kitiwa ait_, or Kituvites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Koba_, or coba, 88. +_Koran_, called the beloved book. Etymology of the word, 318. + Incorrectly called the Alcoran, l'Alcoran, or il Alcorano, 351. + Written in good language, 353. + +L. + +_L'âad_ of the Arabs described, 289. +_Language_, etiquette of, at the court of Marocco, 315. +_Languages_ of Africa, 355. +_L'Araich_, forest of. Ferry of, 125. +_Laws_ of insolvency, 343. +_Lead_ mines, 331. Lead-ore mines, 331. +_Leather_ superior manufactory of, at Mequinas and Marocco, 217. + Articles used in the manufacture of leather, 218. +_Leghorn_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Leper's_ town or village near Marocco, 90. Mendicant lepers, 91. +_Library_ at Fas, 324. +_Lions_, country abounding in. Mode of destroying them. Preservation + against, 115. +_Liquorice_ root, abundant in Suse, 74. +_Locusts_, their incredible devastation described, 221. Mode of +collecting them, 222. Used as food; method of preparing them; much +esteemed as food, 222. Remarkable instance of these insects having +devoured every blade of grass south of the river Elkos, but not +north of that river, 223. +_Love_, Arabian definition of, 363. +_Loyalty_ of the sheiks of Suse, 288. Of Muhamedans, 326. +_Ludaia_ are not Ludama, 507. +_Lybia_ palus and sea of Sudan synonymous, 448. + +M. + +_Majesty_, His, George IV. patron of science and the arts, 429. + Compared to the late emperor Yezzid, 287. +_Mandinga_ language compared with the Arabic, 373. +_Manufactures_ of Fas; superior manufacture of gold-thread there, 214. +_Marabets_, what, 511. +_Marabet_, punishment of one, 524. +_Market_ called Soke Elkhummes, 94. +_Marocco_, emperor's march to, 73. Country abundant in +corn of a superior quality, 78. Reception at salutations +of the Moors, 78. Gate called Beb el Lushoir; its situation, +78. Garden of the Nile, an imperial garden, 79. +Tafilelt rose flourishes at Marocco; its powerful perfume; +otto of roses, 79. Roses; various flowers abundant; +Persian wheel in general use throughout the country, 82. +Divisions of the empire of, 86. The summer residence +of the emperor, 86. The metropolis of the south, 87. +Town or village of lepers at, 90. Policy of concealing +the appearance of wealth at, 95, Furniture of houses at, +95. Customs at, 95. All trades carried on at, 98. +--------, etiquete of the court of, 310, Emperor dispenses + with, 311. +_Marseilles_, its commerce indirectly with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Massacre_ of the Jews at Algiers, 283. +_Matamores_, what, 14. 195. +_Matra_, J.M., his excellency the British ambassador, treated + by the emperor like a prince, 128. +--------, his intelligence respecting vaccine pus, 337. +_Mauritannick_ writing, what, 351. +_Mazagan_, 109. Country of, and inhabitants described, 109. +_Mekka_ caravan, i. 4. +_Mendicant_ lepers, their exclamation, 91. +_Mensoria el_, 110. +_Mequinas_, city of the court-town; travelling, mode of; 88. + Imperial palace at, 117. Beauty of the ladies of, 118. +--------, superior leather and shoes made at, 98. +_Merchandize_, consignment of, from Timbuctoo to Fas, 348. +----------, the various, the produce of Sudan, 256. +_Messa_, visit to the port of, 145. Gold and silver mines of, 146. +_Minister's_ house at Marocco, a noble one, 90. +--------, suggestions recommended to their attention, 230. +_Mitfere_, or cistern, magnificent, at Mazagan, 109. +_Mitferes_, what, 90. Expediency of, 210. +--------, described, magazines for grain, 339. Custom observed when + opened, 339. +_Mogodor_, duties at, doubled, 74. Merchants of, present themselves + to the emperor, 87. +--------, duties at, reduced to the old standard through the + influence of Muley Abd el Melk ben Dris, 128. +--------, merchants in danger of being beheaded, 284. +_Monopodia_ of the ancients compared to a Moorish table, 281. +_Months_, or moons, Muhamedan, their names, 371. +_Money_, interest of, 237. +_Moors_, 1. +---------, their language and residence, 327. +_Moorish grace_ at meals, 96. +----------customs, 281. +_Morbeya_, river of, divides the northern from the southern division + of the empire, 86. +_'Msharrah Rummellah_, plains of, 124. + Described, 195. +_'Mtasseb_, what, 126. +_Muden_, what, 111. +_Muhamedan princes_, treaties with, 283. +--------------loyalty, 326. +--------------, their claims to hospitality, 341. +--------------customs, 349. +_Mules_, not used in the desert, 5. +_Muley_ Abdsalam's domain in the oasis of Ammon, 280. +--------Yezzid, the emperor, compared to his Majesty, George IV., 287. +---------Abdrahaman, anecdote of, 322. +---------Ismael, anecdote of, 323. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to captain Kirke at + Tangier, ambassador from Charles II,, dated A.D. 1682. 384. +---------Ismael, his letter to sir Cloudesly Shovel at Salée, 387. + Sir Cloudesly's answer, 389. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to queen Anne, 392. +---------Yezzid, emperor of Marocco, his letter to the Dutch + consul, 402. +---------Ismael's, emperor, gold coins at Timbuctoo, 522. +---------Hamed, son of Muley Moluck, an account of his expedition + to Timbuctoo, &c. 519. +---------Sidan, loses 3000 Arabic books, 520. + Muley El Arsheed, his expedition to Timbuctoo, 521. + Muley Hamed Dehebby, commonly called Deiby, his expedition + to Timbuctoo, 523. +_Mungo Park_ at Timbuctoo, 319. +_Murder_, punishment for, 343. +_Mushoir_, or place of audience, 89. +_Music_, and Arab dance, 141. + +N. + +_Nasari_, the application of the term, 510. +_Nassar_, Abdrahaman Ben, the bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Nations_, the respective costumes of, enjoined, 296. +_Negro_ languages, thirty-three different ones spoken, 370. +_Negroes_, opinion respecting, 466. Mental degradation of, + imputable, in some measure, to the cruel treatment of + them in the West India islands, 466. +_Neel_, a name applied to two rivers in Africa only, 507. +_Nile_, at Kabra, its width, 471. +----, the correct orthography in English is Neel, 79. +_Niger_, contemplated result of the discovery of its course and + termination, 99. Opinion concerning its course, 103. +_Nile el Kabeer_, Nile Assudan, synonymous with Niger, 201. +----, or Nile of Sudan, discharges itself in a lake, 449. +------, and the Nile, 515. Theory respecting, 515. The author's + opinion of this river never varied, 516. +------, or Neel el Abeed, discharges itself into the Mediterranean + sea at the Delta, in Egypt, 518. +_Nile_, this word is improperly spelled, 507. +_Niles_, anticipation of the confirmation of their junction, 434. +_Nile_ Abid, or Neel el Abeed, error respecting its situation, 435. +_Niles_, junction of, where supposed to take place, 444. Not + doubted in Africa, but supported by the general testimony + of the natives, 445. +_Nile_, the word applied only to two rivers in Africa, 447. +_Nishki_, manner of writing, 350. Synonymous with the Kufie. +_North_ African, or Sudan Company, plan for one, 251. +_Nyctalopia_, or night-blindness, 332. +----------, description of, and remedy, 432. Offer to discover the + remedy, 432. +----------, an ophthalmia, that affects our seamen in the + Mediterranean, 433. Offer to discover the remedy for to + government, 433. + +O. + +_Oasis_, western, 280. +_Oil_ of olives, 67. Oil organic, 91. +_Olive_ plantations of Ras el Wed, 77. +_Ophthalmia_, disorders at Marocco prevail among the Jews, 92. +_Opinions_ of the Africans respecting Jews, Christians, and + themselves, 315. +_Oranges_ of Rabat, superior in quality, and low in price, 114. +_Oranges_, 75. + Orange-trees, very large, 82. +_Ostrich's_ feathers, 67. +_Ostriches_ presented by the Emperor Muley Ismael to Queen Anne, 593. + +P. + +_Palace_, imperial, at Tafileet, magnificent, 80. +_Palaces_ described, 274. + Architecture of, 274. +_Partridges_, mode of hunting among the Arabs, 107. +_Park_, Mungo, at Timbuctoo, 319. +----, his arrival at Timbuctoo confirmed, 470. +----, the author's translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of that traveller's death, 409. + Mr. Abraham Saleme's translation of the same document, 413. +_Persian_, or Arabian wheel described, mode of irrigation, 147. +_Pharaoh_, ruins of, 80. 121. +_Philanthropists_ dig wells for public accommodation, 150. +_Physicians_ fly at the approach of the plague, 165. +_Piracy_, if the slave-trade were made piracy it would not + abolish the traffic, 270. +_Plague_, fragments respecting, 156. + Progress of, 157. + Decrease, 161. + The plague political, 164. + Emperor's minister attacked by it, writes to the British consul + for advice, 165. +----, supposed origin of, 166. + The author an eye-witness of it, and visited the infected, 167. + Progress of, 167. + Remarkable instance of a village in the neighbourhood of + Mogador being free from the epidemy thirty-four days + after it appeared at Mogador, although the communication + was open between the two places, 168. + Haha, destruction in, by the plague, 169. + Peculiarities of, 169. + Destruction of the plague in Suse, 169. + General depopulation caused by it, 170. + Consequences of, on the survivors, 171. + Gradations in society overturned by the plague, 171. + Emigrations from Sahara consequent to the plague, 172. + Symptoms, various of, 173. + Olive oil, external application of, infallible, supposed origin + of, 174. + Superstitious opinion respecting the plague, 175. + Author's precaution against, 177. + Fear, its effect in communicating the infection, 178. + Remedies used, 178. + How caught, 179. Plague cases of, 180. +_Plague_, avoided, by adhering to the principle of avoiding +personal contact and inhalation, 189. Olive oil, infallible +remedy for, 189. +------, 419. Remedy for, 423. +_Plough_, primitive, used by the Arabs, 511. +_Pomegranates_, 75. +_Policy_ of the court of Marocco, 211, 212, 280. +------, adopted by the emperor to secure the allegiance of + the Berebbers, 306. +------, of West Barbary, 320. +_Poculum amicitiæ_, goblet compared to, 232. +_Political_ economy of the emperor, in not going to war with + Algiers, 283. +--------, deception, 309, 314. +_Portugal_, sovereign of, his zeal in converting the Africans to + the Christian doctrine, 443. +_Portuguese_ penetrated far into West Barbary, 324. +_Portfolio_, monthly miscellany, observations on, 464. +_Precision_, unfavourable to truth, according to Mungo Park's + annotator, 446. +_Present_ to the emperor, etiquette of delivering it, presentation + to, 89. +------, received from the emperor, 98. +_Prince_, Muley Teib, conduct of, to Dr. Bell. Satisfied with + the doctor's medicines, 197. +_Property_, agricultural division of, 330. +_Prognosticated_ prosperity from the prayers of benediction of + the marabats or fakeers of the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone. +_Prostration_ practised at the court of Marocco, 281. +_Protection_ among the Arabs a sacred duty when claimed, 343. +_Punishment_ for murder, 343. +_Pyramidical_ basis on which is founded the intelligence in + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c., 451. + +Q. + +_Quarterly_ journal, of literature, science, and the arts, + error of, 435, 438. +_Queen_ Elizabeth, embassy to the emperor of Marocco, 494. + +R. + +_Rabat_, arrival at, 110. Town described. Aqueduct. Mausoleum +of the Sultan Muhamed at, described. Battery + of, bomb-proof. Bastions. Roman spring at. Old Roman + town of Sheila at, described. Old Roman coins, 111. + Mosques, tower of Hassan, similar to one at Timbuctoo, + &c. described, 112. +_Rabat_ and Salee, abundant countries, 113. +_Religions_, of all kinds, tolerated at Timbuctoo. +_Repast_, or dinner, sent by the prince Muley Teib, 192. +_Retaliation_ for murder, an incumbent duty on tha individuals + of a family, 295. +_Revenge_ of the Shelluhs, described, 152. +--------, of the Shelluhs for murder rigidly pursued, 291. +_Richardson_, incorrect in calling the Arabic guttural letter, + _grain_, ghain, 492. +_Richardson's_ Arabic grammar, some errors in, 351. +_Riches_ of the Arabs, in what it consists, 247. +_Rivers_, in sandy districts, change their courses, 440. +_Robbery_, singular mode of, 116. +_Rontgen_, African traveller, death of, 425. + +S. + +_Santa Cruz_, the port of, delivered to the Dutch, 403. +--------, See _Agadeer_. +-------, or Agadeer, the key to Sudan, 268. +-------, invoice from Timbuctoo to, 345. +------- opened to Dutch commerce by the author, 436. +_Sanctuary_ of Muley Dris Zerone, 80. +_Saffy_, its road for shipping described, 108. + Situation and description of, 108. +_Sahara_, north part described, no water, 4. + South part described, 7. + Water carried in goat-skins, 5. + Sheiks of, independent, +--------, Arabs of, prefer sleeping in the open air, 155. +_Salee_, dungeon of, for Christian captives, 114. +------, and Rabat, the adjacent country productive, 113. +_Salutations_, peculiar character of their, 235. +_Saneet Urtemma_, a dangerous country, 110. +_Sand_ baths, 279. +_Science_ and the arts, decay of, among the Arabs, 352. +_Sebu_, river, situation of, 438. + +_Sejin Messa_, etymology of the name, vulgarly called + Segilmessa, 145. +_Senegambia_, 70. +_Serpents_, charmers of, described, 430. +--------, domestic, of Marocco, 213. +_Servants_ of the emperor, policy of, 280. + +_Shegar_, signification of, and misinterpretation, 441. +_Sheh_, the Arabic name for worm-seed, 5. +------, the plant designated, 510. +_Shella_, an old Roman town, 112. +_Shelluh_, revenge of, described, 152. +------, repast, described. Patriarchal cakes of, 153. + Customs of, 154. 313. +------, language, specimen of, 366. +_Shelluhs_, revenge and retaliation, 291. +------, their territory described, 327. +_Sheshawa_, plains of, 82. + Mountains of, strata of oyster-shells at the top of, 82. + River of, 82. +_Shume el_, the hot wind of Sahara so denominated, 5. +_Shoemaker_, an honourable trade, 98. +_Shovel_, Sir Cloudesley, his letter to the emperor of Marocco. +_Sigen Messa_, face of that country, 81. +_Silver_ mines of Elala, 218. +------, mine, 331. +_Siwah_, language of, similar to the Shelluh, 370. +_Slavery_, state of, in Africa, 219. + Cannot be abolished but by commerce, 269. +_Slaves_, mode of selling them, 95. +_Slave_ trade, not to be abolished by any naval force however + formidable, 269. +_South_ Africa, policy of constructing mitferes there, 339. +How that colony might be improved in the value of its produce, 340. +----------, colony of, policy and expediency of building + mitferes there, 339. + How to improve that colony, 340. +_Storks_, abundance of, at Azamore, 110. +_Style_ used in addressing the emperor, 383. +_Subterraneous_ hordes, propensity to, 238. +_Sudan_, gum of, 67. +------, trade with, 277. +------, company, plan for one, 251. +------, command of the commerce of, how to be obtained, 67. +------, produce of, 67. +_Sugar_, figurative of friendship, 234. +_Sulphur_ mines, 331. +_Sultan_ Muhamed's letter to the European consuls, 394. + To the governor of Mogodor, 405. +--------, Soliman's letter to his majesty George III., 395. +_Superstitious_ tradition, 460. +_Suse_, province of, inaccessible to an invading army from + the north, 76. +_Synonymous_ words in sound, 362. + +T. + +_Tabia_ walls, what, 2. Mode of building them. +_Tafilelt_, 1. A rendezvous for caravans; kassars of; hire of +camels from Fas to; a country of princes, 2. Market +at, 2. Palace, imperial, magnificent at, 80. Dates +abundant at, 80. Magnificent plantations and extensive +forests of, 81. Faith and honour of the natives proverbial; +robberies unknown there, 81. +_Talleyrand_, his favourite African scheme, 229. +_Talh-tree_ defined, 510. +_Tangier_ garrison, salute to the British ambassador on his + entry there, 127. +_Tas_, what it is, 231. +_Tatta_, a depôt for camels, 248. +_Tendaraman_, venomous spider described, 429. +_Tensift_, river of, 108. +_Tildie_, repast, Arab, at; Portuguese tower at, 63. Cookery + of the Arabs at, 64. +_Timbuctoo_, situation of, and charge of travelling to, 7. +City of; river close to it, 8. Population of; extent of; +caravanseras of; slaves at, 10. Houses; government, 11. +Revenue of, 12. Moors pay no duty at, but negroes +do, 14. Subject to Housa, 14. Army of; subsidies; +administration of justice at; punishments, 15. Good +police of, 16. Insolvent debtors at; slaves entitled to +freedom at; property, succession to and distribution of; +rational treatment of slaves at; wills not written, 18. +Laws of inheritance; marriage; rape; adultery, 19. +Trade and articles sold at, 20. Manufactures, 23. Measures, +23. Husbandry, 24. Sowing season; provisions, 25. +Animals; birds, 26. Fish; prices of various articles, 27. +Costume, 28. Diversions, 31. Time, measurement of; +Religion, 32. Diseases, 33. Manners and customs, 34. +Neighbouring nations, 35. +--------, opportunity of opening a trade with, why declined, 145. +--------, how likely to be made tributary to Great +Britain, 249. Circuitous commerce of, explained, 256. +Direct and eligible route to, through Sahara from the + shores of the Atlantic Ocean, 257. +--------, value of merchandize at, 260. Immense profit +actually made in, 261. Immense quantities of gold +to be procured from Sudan, 261. Goods entering the +city at the gate of the desert pay no duty, 263. Timbuctoo +coffee, 279. Invoice from, 345. 347. Letter from, 346. 348. + +_Timbuctoo_, Mungo Park at, 319. +----------, warehouses of, contain the manufactures, of India + and Europe, 427. + Communication with, plan for opening, 428. +----------, intelligence respecting, whence derived, 436. +----------, cotton manufacture, made in the city of, interwoven + with silk, of a chequered pattern, deposited in the + British Museum, 437. + Situation of, in respect to the Neel el abeed, 439. + Under the sovereignty of a negro prince, 441. + Fish at, resembling salmon, 469. +--------, first expedition to and conquest of, 519. +--------, second expedition to, 521. +--------, third expedition to, 523. +_Titles_ of emperor, 382. +_Togreda_, ceremony of, how performed, 231. +_Tomie_, or Sebah Biure, port of; the author visits it by the + prince's request, 138. + Arab dance and festivity in the neighbourhood of, 141. + Music of, 140. +_Trade_ with Sudan, 277. +_Travellers_, solitary or scientific, little expectations from, + 258. +_Travelling_ in Barbary, 293. +_Treaties_ with Muhamedan princes, 283. +_Troglodyte_, 319. + +U. + +_Uffran_, a depôt for camels, 248. +_Uly_ and Ualy, material difference between these two terms, 350. +_Unity_ among Christians a necessary prelude to the conversion + of Africa. The several sects of Christians should + unite, instead of being divided, as an expedient measure + necessary to precede the conversion of Africa, 129. +_Union_ of waters between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 447. + +V. + +_Vaccination_, intelligence transmitted from West Barbary + instrumental in the propagation of, 337. + 23,134 lives saved by vaccination, 338. +_Vasco de Gama's_ observations on intercourse with Africa, 258. +_Vincent_, Lord St. his message to the Emperor of Marocco, 459. +_Vines_, the grapes of which are of an extraordinary size, 74. + +W. + +_Water_ communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 443. + This opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornmann, 444. +------, communication between Cairo and Timbuctoo, the + opinion respecting, receives additional confirmation, 517. +------, melons at Salee and Rabat peculiarly sweet, 114. +------, carried through the Sahara in goat's skins. +_Wah el_, what, 6. +_Wahs_ of Sahara, how supplied with fish, 257. + Western oasis, 280. +_Wangara_, jewel from, 103. +_Wassenah_, or Massenah, conjecture why not known at Ashantee, 491. +_Wed el fees_, river of, 82. +_Whedinoon_, a depôt for camels. +_Wheat_, superior at Marocco, 95. +------, a superior kind or quality, 125. +_Wild_ myrtle grows in the Sahara, 6. +_Wine_ Company recommended, 212. +_Woled Aisah_, encampment of Arabs. Produce of that country, 109. +_Wool_, exportation of, granted by the emperor. +_Woladia el_, an eligible place for a naval depôt, 108. +_Woolja_, not Woolga, 109. +_Woled Abbusebah_, a whole clan of Arabs, banished from the + plains near Marocco, and plundered, killed or dispersed, 318. +_Woolo_, king of Timbuctoo, 484. +_Wormseed_, 74. +_Wrecked ships_, 277. + How treated, 278. + Wrecked sailors, 279. +_Wyk_, Sir Pieter, Swedish consul, his courier sent to the + author, 127. + +Y. + +_Yezzid Muley_, gives the port of Santa Cruz to the Dutch, 436. +----------, emperor of Marocco, compared to his majesty + George the Fourth, 287. + His letter to the Dutch consul, 402. + His letter to the governor of Mogador, giving to the Dutch the + port of Santa Cruz, 402. + +Z. + +_Zealand_, New, customs of, compared to those of the Jews, 236. +_Zeal_ of Mohamedans not sufficient to convert the negro nations + of Africa, 442. +_Zeef_, what it is, 231. +_Zemurh ait's_, or Zemurhites, a kabyl of Berebbers, 115. +_Zion ait's_, or Zianites, a tribe, or kabyl of Berebbers, 124. +_Ziltanait_, or Ziltanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Zimurh_ shelluh, Berebbers of, their character, 284. + + + + +THE END. + + +Printed by A. and K. Spottiswoode, +Printers-Street, London. + + + + +_Works by the same Author_. + +An account of the EMPIRE OF MAROCCO and the DISTRICTS OF SUSE AND +TAFILELT, compiled from Miscellaneous Observations made during a +long residence in, and various Journies through, these Countries. + +TO WHICH IS ADDED, + +An Account of SHIPWRECKS ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA, and an +Account of Timbuctoo, the great Emporium of Central Africa; +illustrated with ACCURATE MAPS and a variety of highly finished +PLATES. Third edition. _Considerably enlarged with new and +interesting matter_. + +Sold by Cadell and Davies, London; and by W. Blackwood, Edinburgh. + + * * * * * + + +_Preparing for the press_. + + +A GRAMMAR of the ARABIC LANGUAGE. + +No accurate Grammar of the Arabic Language has ever yet issued from +the British Press!--It is extraordinary that the many professors of +_that bold and figurative language of the East_, have never yet +favoured the public with such a desirable work.--An attempt will now +be made, by the above author, to supply in England this deficiency +in Oriental Literature. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Af, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + +***** This file should be named 22631-0.txt or 22631-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/6/3/22631/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Rénald Lévesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/22631-0.zip b/22631-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..63a5cf6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22631-0.zip diff --git a/22631-8.txt b/22631-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b3ca274 --- /dev/null +++ b/22631-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,16092 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Africa, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa Territories in the Interior of Africa + +Author: Abd Salam Shabeeny + +Commentator: James Grey Jackson + +Release Date: September 16, 2007 [EBook #22631] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Rnald Lvesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothque nationale de France + + + + + + + + + + + AN ACCOUNT + OF + TIMBUCTOO AND HOUSA, + TERRITORIES IN THE INTERIOR OF + Africa, + + By: EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY; + + WITH + _NOTES, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY._ + TO WHICH IS ADDED, + LETTERS DESCRIPTIVE OF + TRAVELS THROUGH WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN'S OF ATLAS; + ALSO, + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, AND ANECDOTES; + SPECIMENS OF THE ARABIC EPISTOLARY STYLE, + &c. &c. + +"_L'Univers est une espce de livre, dont on n'a lu que la premire + page, quand on n'a vu que son pays._" LE COSMOPOLITE. + + By; JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + RESIDENT UPWARDS OF SIXTEEN YEARS IN SOUTH AND WEST BARBARY, + IN A DIPLOMATIC AND IN A COMMERCIAL CAPACITY. + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, + PATERNOSTER-ROW. + 1820. + + +Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, +Printers Street, London. + + + + + TO + HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY + GEORGE THE FOURTH, + _&c. &c. &c._ + THIS WORK + IS + WITH PERMISSION, + RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, + + BY + + HIS MAJESTY'S + MOST DUTIFUL SUBJECT + AND SERVANT, + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The person who communicated the following intelligence respecting +Timbuctoo and Housa, is a Muselman, and a native of Tetuan, whose father +and mother are personally known to Mr. Lucas, the British Consul. His +name is Asseed El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny. His account of himself is, +that at the age of fourteen years he accompanied his father to +Timbuctoo, from which town, after a residence of three years, he +proceeded to Housa; and after residing at the latter two years, he +returned to Timbuctoo, where he continued seven years, and then came +back to Tetuan. + +Being now in the twenty-seventh year of his age, he proceeded from +Tetuan as a pilgrim and merchant, with the caravan for Egypt to Mecca +and Medina, and on his return, established himself as a merchant at +Tetuan, his native place, from whence he embarked on board a vessel +bound for Hamburgh, in order to purchase linens and other merchandize +that were requisite for his commerce. + +On his return from Hamburgh in an English vessel, he was captured, and +carried prisoner to Ostend, by a ship manned by Englishmen, but under +Russian colours, the captain of which pretended that his Imperial +mistress was at war with all Muselmen. There he was released by the good +offices of the British consul, Sir John Peters[a], and embarked once +more in the same vessel, which, by the same mediation, was also +released; but as the captain either was or pretended to be afraid of a +second capture, El Hage Abd Salam was sent ashore at Dover, and is +now[b], by the orders of government, to take his passage on board a +king's ship that will sail in a few days. + +In the following communications, Mr. Beaufoy proposed the questions, and +Mr. Lucas was the interpreter. + +Shabeeny was two years on his journey from Tetuan to Mekka, before he +returned to Fas. He made some profit on his merchandise, which consisted +of haiks[c], red caps, and slippers, cochineal and saffron; the returns +were, fine Indian muslins[d] for turbans, raw silk, musk, and +_gebalia_[e], a fine perfume that resembles black paste. + +He made a great profit by his traffic at Timbuctoo and Housa; but, _he +says_, money gained among the Negroes[f] has not the blessing of God on +it, but vanishes away without benefit to the owner; but, acquired in a +journey to Mecca, proves fortunate, and becomes a permanent acquisition. + +On his return with his father from Mecca, they settled at Tetuan, and +often carried cattle, poultry, &c. to Gibraltar; his father passed the +last fifteen years of his life at Gibraltar, and died there about the +year 1793. He was born at Mequinas; his family is descended from the +tribe of Shabban[g], which possesses the country between Santa Cruz and +Wedinoon. They were entitled to the office of pitching the Emperor's +tent, and attending his person. They can raise 40,000 men, and they were +the first who accompanied Muley Hamed Dehebby[h] in his march to +Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote a: Confirmed by Sir John Peters.] + + [Footnote b: In the year 1795.] + + [Footnote c: The haiks are light cotton, woollen, or silk garments, + about five feet wide and four yards long, manufactured at Fas, as + are also the red caps which are generally made of the finest Tedla + wool, which is equal to the Spanish, and is the produce of the + province of that name, (for the situation of which see the map of + the empire of Marocco, facing page 55.) The slippers are also + manufactured from leather made from goat-skins, at Fas and at + Mequinas. The cochineal is imported from Spain, although the + opuntia, or the tree that nourishes the cochineal-fly, abounds in + many of the provinces of West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Suse. The saffron abounds in the Atlas mountains in Lower Suse, + and is used in most articles of food by the Muhamedans.] + + [Footnote d: Muls.] + + [Footnote e: _Gebalia_ resembles frankincense, or Gum Benjamin, and + is used for fumigations by the Africans.] + + [Footnote f: Being idolaters.] + + [Footnote g: Shban is (probably) a tribe of the Howara Arabs, who + possess the beautiful plains and fine country situated between the + city of Terodant and the port of Santa Cruz. There is an emigration + of the Mograffra Arabs, who are in possession of the country + between Terodant and the port of Messa. The encampments of an + emigration of the Woled Abusebah (vulgarly called, in the maps, + _Labdessebas_) Arabs of Sahara, occupy a considerable district + between Tomie, on the coast, and Terodant. The coast from Messa to + Wedinoon is occupied by a trading race of Arabs and Shelluhs, who + have inter-married, called _Ait Bamaran_. These people are very + anxious to have a port opened in their country, and some sheiks + among them have assured me, that there is a peninsula on their + coast conveniently situated for a port. _This circumstance is well + deserving the attention of the maritime and commercial nations of + the world._] + + [Footnote h: The youngest son of the Emperor Muley Ismael conducted + the expedition here alluded to, about the year of Christ 1727. For + an account of which see the Appendix, page 523.] + +He considers himself now as settled at Tetuan, where he has a wife and +children. He left it about twelve months ago, with three friends, to go +to Hamburg (as before mentioned.) They were confined forty-seven days at +Ostend, were taken the second day of their voyage; the English captain +put them ashore at Dover against their inclination, and proceeded to +Gibraltar with their goods: this was in December, 1789. + +THE CONTINENT. + +The continent of Africa, the discovery of which has baffled the +enterprise of Europe, (unlike every other part of the habitable world,) +still remains, as it were, a sealed book, at least, if the book has been +opened, we have scarcely got beyond the title-page. + +Great merit is due to the enterprise of travellers. The good intention +of the African Association, in promoting scientific researches in this +continent, cannot (by the liberal) be doubted. But something more than +this is necessary to embark _successfully_ in this gigantic undertaking. +I never thought that the system of solitary travellers would produce any +beneficial result. The plan of the expedition of Major Peddie and +Captain Tuckie was still more objectionable than the solitary plan, and +I have reason to think, that no man possessing any personal knowledge of +Africa, ever entertained hopes of the success of those expeditions. +Twenty years ago I declared it as MY decided opinion, that the only way +to obtain a knowledge of this interesting continent, is through the +medium of commercial intercourse. The more our experience of the +successive failure of our African expeditions advances, the more +strongly am I confirmed in this opinion. If we are to succeed in this +great enterprise, we must step out of the beaten path--the road of +error, that leads to disappointment--the road that has been so fatal to +all our ill-concerted enterprises; we must shake off the rust of +precedent, and strike into a new path altogether. + +Do we not lack that _spirit of union_ so expedient and necessary to all +great enterprises? Is not the public good sacrificed to +self-aggrandisement and individual interest.--Let the African +Institution unite its funds to those of the African Association, and +co-operate with the efforts of that society! Let the African Company +also throw in their share of intelligence. The separated and sometimes +discordant interests of all these societies, if united, might effect +much. The _united_ efforts of such societies would do more in a year +towards the civilization of Africa, and the abolition of slavery, than +they will do in ten, unconnected as they now are. _Concordia parva res +crescunt_.--When each looks to particular interests, we cannot expect +the result to be the general good. + +It is probable that the magnificent enterprises of the Portuguese and +Spaniards, would, ere this, have colonised and converted to +Christianity, all the eligible spots of idolatrous Africa, if their +attention to this grand object had not been diverted by the discovery of +America, and their establishments in Brazil, Mexico, &c. + +I was established upwards of sixteen years in West and South Barbary; +territories that maintain an uninterrupted intercourse with all those +countries that Major Houghton, Hornemann, Park, Rontgen, Burckhardt, +Ritchie, and others have attempted to explore. I was diplomatic agent to +several maritime nations of Europe, which familiarised me with all ranks +of society in those countries. I had a perfect knowledge of the +commercial and travelling language of Africa, (the Arabic.) I +corresponded _myself_ with the Emperors, Princes, and Bashaws in this +language; my commercial connections were _very_ extensive, amongst all +the most respectable merchants who traded with Timbuctoo and other +countries of Sudan. My residence at Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in Suse, +afforded me eligible opportunities of procuring information respecting +the trade with Sudan, and the interior of Africa. A long residence in +the country, and extensive connections, enabled me to discriminate, and +to ascertain who were competent and who were not competent to give me +the information I required. I had opportunities at my leisure of +investigating the motives that any might have to deceive me; I had time +and leisure also to investigate their moral character, and to ascertain +the principles that regulated their respective conduct. Possessed of all +these sources of information, how could I fail of procuring correct and +authentic intelligence of the interior of Africa; yet my account of the +two Niles has been doubted by our fire-side critics, and the desultory +intelligence of other travellers, who certainly did not possess those +opportunities of procuring information that I did, has been substituted: +but, notwithstanding this unaccountable scepticism, my uncredited +account of the connection of the two Niles of Africa, continues daily to +receive additional confirmation from all the African travellers +themselves. And thus, TIME, (to use the words of a [j]learned and most +intelligent writer), "which is more obscure in its course than the Nile, +and in its termination than the Niger," is disclosing all these things: +so that I now begin to think that the before-mentioned critics will not +be able much longer to maintain their theoretical hypothesis.[k] + + [Footnote j: Vide the Rev. C. C. Colton's Lacon, sect. 587. p. 260, + 261.] + + [Footnote k: See various letters on Africa, in this work, p. 443.] + +The talents, the extraordinary prudence and forbearance, the knowledge +of the Arabic language, and other essential qualifications in an African +traveller, which the ever-to-be-lamented Burckhardt so eminently +possessed, gave me the greatest hopes of his success in his arduous +enterprise, until I discovered, when reading his Travels, that he was +_poor and despised, though a Muselman_. + +There is too much reason to apprehend that he was suspected, if not +discovered by the Muselmen, or he would not have been _secluded from +their meals_ and society: the Muselmen never (_sherik taam_) eat or +divide food with those they suspect of deception, nor do they ever +_refuse to partake of food with a Muselman_, unless they do suspect him +of treachery or deception; this principle prevails so universally among +them, that artful and designing people have practised as many deceptions +on the Bedouin under the cloak of hospitality, as are practised in +Christian countries under the cloak of religion! I cannot but suspect, +therefore, from the circumstance before recited, that the Muselmism of +Burckhardt was seriously suspected, and that his companions only waited +a convenient opportunity in the Sahara for executing their revenge on +him for the deception. + +The very favourable reception that my account of Marocco met with from +the British public; the many things therein stated, which are daily +gaining confirmation, although they were doubted at the period of their +publication, have contributed in no small degree, to the production of +the following sheets, in which I can conscientiously declare, that truth +has been my guide; I have never sacrificed it to ambition, vanity, +avarice, or any other passion. + +The learned, I am flattered to see, are now beginning to adopt my +orthography of African names; they have lately adopted _Timbuctoo_ for +the old and barbarous orthography of _Timbuctoo_; they have, however, +been upwards of ten years about it. In ten years more, I anticipate that +_Fez_ will be changed into _Fas_, and _Morocco_ into _Marocco_, for this +plain and uncontrovertible reason,--because they are so spelled in the +original language of the countries, of which they are the chief cities. +Since the publication of my account of Marocco, I have seen Arabic words +spelled various ways by the same author (I have committed the same error +myself); but in the following work I have adopted a plan to correct this +prevailing error in Oriental orthography, which, I think, ought to be +followed by every Oriental scholar, as the only correct way of +transcribing them in English; viz. by writing them exactly according to +the original Arabic orthography, substituting _gr_ (not _gh_, as +Richardson directs) for the Arabic guttural [Arabic] grain, and _kh_ +for the guttural _k_ or [Arabic]-- + +_Note._ We should be careful not to copy the orthography of Oriental or +African names from the French, which has too often been done, although +their pronunciation of European letters is very dissimilar from our own. + + + + + CONTENTS. + +_An Account of a Journey from Fas to Timbuctoo, performed about the year +1787, by El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny._ Page 1 + +Route to Timbuctoo.--Situation of the City.--Population.--Inns +or Caravanseras, called Fondaks.--Houses.--Government.--Revenue.--Army. +Administration of Justice.--Succession to Property.--Marriage.--Trade. +Manufactures.--Husbandry.--Provisions.--Animals.--Birds.--Fish.--Prices +of different Articles.--Dress.--Time.--Religion.--Diseases.--Manners +and Customs.--Neighbouring Nations. + +_Journey from Timbuctoo to Housa_ 37 + +The River Neel or Nile.--Housa.--Government.--Administration +of Justice--Landed Property,--Revenues.--Army.--Trade.--Climate. +Zoology.--Diseases.--Religion.--Persons.--Dress.--Buildings.--Manners. +Gold.--Limits of the Empire. + +_Letters, containing an Account of Journies through various Parts of +West and South Barbary, at different Periods, personally performed by +J.G. Jackson._ 55 + +LETTER I. (To James Willis, Esq., late British Consul for Senegambia.) +On the Opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the Province of +Suse; and of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid to the Dutch. _ibid._ + +LETTER II. (To the same.) The Author's Arrival at Agadeer or Santa +Cruz.--He opens the Port to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception +on landing there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading +Custom that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on +Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a Sanctuary +at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been considered Holy Ground, +and none but Muhamedans had ever before been permitted to enter the +Gates on Horseback. 58 + +LETTER III. (To the same.) The Author makes a Commercial Road down the +Mountain, to facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and +Liberality of the Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description +of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength +of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Agurem, and the Portuguese Spring and Tank +there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a Fort.--Eligibility of +the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial Depot to supply the whole +of the Interior of North Africa with East India and European +Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to Commerce and Industry, if +Opportunity offered. 62 + +LETTER IV. (To the same.) Command of the Commerce of Sudan. 67 + +LETTER V. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 69 + +LETTER VI. From the same to the same 71 + +LETTER VII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles +the Customs' Duties of Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abdelmelk, with +the Garrison and Merchants of Santa Cruz, ordered to go to the Court at +Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the Country +and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through which the Author +passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse from Marocco, +originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas.--Extensive +Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco +Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the +Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Prince Abdelmelk's magnificent +Apparel reprobated by the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz shut to the +Commerce of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Marocco.--The Prince +banished to the _Bled Shereef_, or Country of Princes; viz. Tafilelt, of +the Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the +Country.--Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity +of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (_Attar_ +being the Word signifying a Distillation.).--State of Oister Shells on +the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and Marocco, being +a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's Reception on the +Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or Sahara of Mogodor. 73 + +LETTER VIII. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 84 + +Extract of a Letter from His Excellency J.M. Matra, British Envoy to +Marocco, &c. to Mr. Jackson. 85 + +LETTER IX. (To James Willis, Esq.) Custom of visiting the Emperor on his +Arrival at Marocco.--Journey of the Merchants thither on that +Occasion.--No one enters the Imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode +of travelling.--The Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience +of the Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of +Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at +Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, East and +South of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of Eating.--Trades +or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of the Sultan.--Present +received from the Sultan. 86 + +LETTER X. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 99 + +LETTER XI. From the same to the same 101 + +LETTER XII. From the same to the same 103 + +LETTER XIII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Journey from Mogodor to Rabat, to +Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, +to the Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite Country to +L'Araich and Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as (_Tabuk_) +Cook, and Deeb as (_Mule Lukkerzana_) Tent-Master.--Exportation of Wool +granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the Plague.--Arabs, +their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations respecting the River +Tansift.--Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' Pass.--Description of Saffy, and +its Port or Road.--Woladia calculated to make a safe harbour.--Growth of +Tobacco.--Mazagan described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet +Urtemma a dangerous Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat +described.--Mausoleum of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of +Sheila, a Roman Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of +Rabat.--Productive Country about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to +Christians.--The Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait +Zimurh, notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country +disturbed with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City +and its Imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely +beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris or Idris +Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the Fakeers of +the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected from the English +in the Event of an Invasion by Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of +Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of +Pharaoh near the Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.-- + +The Descendants of the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these +People.--Various Tribes of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar +Kabeer.--Its Environs, a beautiful Country.--Forest of +L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as +Imitations of Amber.--Grand Entry of the British Ambassador into +Tangier.--Our Ignorance of African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of +the Provinces of his Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe. 105 + +LETTER XIV. (From His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson.) +Respecting the Result of the British Embassy to the Emperor of Marocco +at Old Fas. 128 + +LETTER XV. (To James Willis, Esq.) European Society at Tangier.--Sects +and Divisions among Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the +Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt upon Christians +themselves.--The Cause of it.--The Conversion of Africa should be +preceded by an Imitation of the divine Doctrine of Christ among +Christians themselves. 129 + +LETTER XVI. (To the same.) Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, +showing the Distances from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic +Ocean; useful to Persons travelling in that Country. 132 + +LETTER XVII. (To the same.) An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to +Saffy, during a Civil War, in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not +pass, owing to the Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and +Shedma.--Stratagem adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger +of being discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, +Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and Compliments +received from him on his having accomplished this perilous Journey. 134 + +LETTER XVIII. (To the same.) Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the +Khalif Delemy in Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in +Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, in +Suse.--Country infested with Rats.--Situation of Tomie.--Entertainment +at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to +entertain his guests.--Arabian Dance and Music.--Manner and Style of +Dancing.--Eulogium of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners +of the latter.--Their personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to +have a Commercial Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince +respecting Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various +Articles of Commerce.--Viceroy's Offer to build a House, and the +Duties.--Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold and Silver +Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and Grapes.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at Delemy's.--Elegant +Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince prepares to depart for +Tafilelt. 137 + +LETTER XIX. (To the same.) Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no +Travellers ventured to pass, owing to Civil War and Contention among the +Kabyles.--Moorish Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of +Travellers.--Travelled with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, +Baggage, or Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land.--Bitter +Effects of Revenge and Retaliation on the happiness of Society.--Origin +of these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with +Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among the +Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic Honey.--Ceremony at +Meals, and Mode of Eating.--Travelled all Night, and slept in the open +Air;--Method of avoiding the Night-dew, as practised by the +Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor. 150 + +_An Account of the Rise, Progress, and Decrease of the Plague that +ravaged West and South Barbary, in 1799, faithfully extracted, from +Letters written before and during its Existence, by the House of James +Jackson & Co., or by James G. Jackson, at Mogodor, to their +Correspondents in Europe._ 156 + +Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson. 163 + +An Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated West and +South Barbary in 1799 and 1800, to the Effects of which the Author was +an eye-witness. 166 + +Cases of Plague. 180 + +Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in West +Barbary, which was imported from Egypt; communicated by the Author to +the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the +Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, No. 15, +published October, 1819. 186 + +_Journey from Tangier to Rabat, through the Plains of Seboo, in Company +with Doctor Bell and the Prince Muley Teib and an Army of Cavalry_. 191 + +Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. Bell.--Description +of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, an +incomparably fine and productive Country.--The Cavalry of the +Amorites;--their unique Observations on Dr. Bell: their mean opinion of +his Art, because he could not cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on +Rafts of inflated Skins.--Spacious tent of Goat's Hair erected for the +Sheik, and appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the +magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian +Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these Plains.--Matamores, +what they are.--Mode of Reaping.-- + +The Prince presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his +Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and the +Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor. 191 + +_Of the excavated Residences of the Inhabitants of Atlas: the Acephali, +Hel Shoual, and Hel el Kitteb_. 198 + +The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System of +solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous Company; +beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the +Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indispensable to +the Conversion of the native Negroes to Christianity. + +_Cautions to be used in Travelling_. 202 + +Danger of Travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself +accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling +between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of +Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of Living among the Arabs; Food, Clothing, +domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs calculated by the +Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are good Figures, and have +personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; poetical Geniuses; Dancing and +Amusements; Musical Instruments; their Manners are courteous. + +_Abundance of Corn produced in West Barbary_. 208 + +Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of Duquella's +Weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or Subterranneous +Depositaries for Corn. + +_Domestic Serpents of Marocco_ 213 + +_Manufactures of Fas_. 214 + +Superior Manufactory of Gold Thread.--Imitation of precious +Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine. + +_On the State of Slavery in Muhamedan Africa_. 219 + +_The Plague of Locusts_. 221 + +Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance of +their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and not on the +other. + +_On the Influence of the great Principle of Christianity on the Moors_. + 224 + +Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent +it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial +Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to attend to +the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French colonizing Senegal, +and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating the Value of our West-India +Islands. + +_Interest of Money._ 237 + +Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital. + +_Plan for the gradual Civilisation of Africa._ 247 + +On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the Sahara and +Ashantee. + +_Prospectus of a Plan for forming a North African or Sudan Company: to +be instituted for the Purpose of establishing an extensive Commerce +with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the Interior Regions of +North Africa._ 251 + +Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the Trade +carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the +Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of North +Africa, and with other States of Sudan. 254 + +Letter from Vasco de Gama, in Elucidation of this Plan. 258 + +Letter on the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, in further Elucidation +of this Plan. 264 + +Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa. 266 + +_Architecture of the Mosques.--Funeral Ceremonies of the Moors,--Gardens +at Fas._ 271 + +_Fragments, Notes, and Anecdotes, illustrating the Nature and Character +of the Country._ 276 + +Introduction,--Trade with Sudan.--Wrecked Ships on the Coast, +278.--Wrecked Sailors.--Timbuctoo Coffee.--Sand Baths.--Civil War common +in West Barbary, 279.--Policy of the Servants of the Emperor.--El Wah El +Grarbee, or the Western Oasis, 280.--Prostration, the Etiquette of the +Court of Marocco, 281.--Massacre of the Jews, and Attack on +Algiers.--Treaties with Muhamedan Princes, 283.--Berebbers of Zimurh +Shelleh--The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation, +284.--The Body of the Emperor Muley Yezzid disinterred, 286. Shelluhs; +their Revenge and Retaliation, 291.--Travelling in Barbary.--Anecdote +displaying the African Character, and showing them to be now what they +were anciently, under Jugurtha, 293.--Every Nation is required to use +its own Costume, 296.--Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under +that Name, 297.--The Emperor's Attack on Dimenet, in the Atlas, +305.--Moral Justice, 306.--Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers +of Atlas.--Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans, 308.--Political +Deception, 309.--Etiquette of the Court of Marocco, 310.--Customs of the +Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas.--Connubial Customs, 313.--Political +Duplicity, 314.--Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco, +315.--Food, viz. Kuscasoe, Hassua, El Hasseeda, 317--The Woled +Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the Plains of Marocco, +317.--The Koran called the Beloved Book.--Arabian Music, +318.--Sigilmessa.--Mungo Park at Timbuctoo.--Troglodyte, 319,--Police of +West Barbary, 320.--Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed, an Anecdote of, +322,--Anecdote of Muley Ismael, 323.--Library at Fas, 324.--Deism, +325--Muhamedan Loyalty.--Cairo, 326.--Races of Men constituting the +Inhabitants of West and South Barbary, and that part of Bled el Jereed, +called Tafilelt and Sejin Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the +territories of the present Emperor of Marocco: the Moors--the +Berebbers--the Shelluhs, 327.--The Arabs--the Jews--Douars, +328.--Various Modes of Intoxication, 329.--Division of Agricultural +Property, 331.--Mines.--Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, +called by the Arabs _Butelleese_; and its Remedy, 332.--Vaccination, +336.--Game, 338.--Agriculture.--Mitferes, 339.--Laws of Hospitality, +340.--Punishment for Murder.--Insolvency Laws, 343.--Dances, +344.--Circumcision.--Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, +345.--Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, 346.--Invoice from +Timbuctoo to Fas, 347.--Translation of its accompanying Letter from +Timbuctoo, 348.--Food of the Desert,--Antithesis, a favourite Figure +with the Arabs, 349.--Arabian Modes of Writing, 350.--Decay of Science +and of Arts among the Arabs, 352.--Extraordinary Abstinence experienced +in the Sahara. 353 + +_Languages of Africa._ 355 + +Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the +Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the Mandinga +Language.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the Wah el +Grarbie, or Oasis of Ammon, and with the original Language of the Canary +Islands, and similitude of Customs. + +_Titles of the Emperor of Marocco._ 382 + +Style of addressing him. 383 + +_Specimens of Muhamedan Epistolatory Correspondence._ 384 + +LETTER I. Translation of a Letter from Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, +to Captain Kirke, at Tangier, Ambassador from King Charles the Second, +A.D. 1684. _ibid_ + +LETTER II. From the same to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, on board the Charles +Galley, off Sallee, A.D. 1684. 387 + +LETTER III, Captain Shovel's Answer, September 1684. 389 + +LETTER IV. Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter to +Queen Anne, A.D. 1710, from the Harl. MSS. 7525. 392 + +LETTER V. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben +Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident at +Tangier, delivered to each of them by the Bashaw of the Province of El +Grarb, A.D. 1788. 394 + +LETTER VI. From Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. +to His Majesty George the Third, literally translated by J.G. Jackson, +at the Request of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, after lying in the +Secretary of State's Office here for several Months, and being sent +ineffectually to the Universities, and after various Enquiries had been +made on Behalf of the Emperor to the Governor of Gibraltar, the Bashaw +of El Grarb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any Answer had +been returned to His Imperial Majesty. 395 + +LETTER VII. Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated +from the original Arabic, by J.G. Jackson. 398 + +LETTER VIII. From Hulaku the Tartar, Conqueror of the East, to Al Malek +Annasar, Sultan of Aleppo, A.D. 1259. 399 + +LETTER IX. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to +Webster Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their +High Mightinesses, the States General of the Seven United Provinces, +written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and previous to the +Negociation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz to +Dutch Commerce. 402 + +LETTER X. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid to the +Governor of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the +Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation. 402 + +LETTER XI. Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa in their +Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan +Faith, A.D. 1797. 404 + +LETTER XII. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed, +Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor, A.D. 1791, A.H. 1203. 405 + +_Doubts having been made, in the Daily Papers, concerning the Accuracy +of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of +Mungo Park's Death, the following Observations by the Author are laid +before the Public, in Elucidation of those Translations._ 406 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (The Author's +Translation). 409 + +Observation. 410 + +Extract from the Times, May 3, 1819.--Mungo Park. 412 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (Mr. Abraham +Saleme's Translation). 413 + +Letter to the Editor of the British Statesman, on the Errors in Mr. +Saleme's Translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of the Death of +Mungo Park. 415 + +_Letters respecting Africa, from J.G. Jackson and other._ 419 + +On the Plague. To James Willis, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. 419 + +Death of Mungo Park. 424 + +Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of Africa. + 425 + +Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called +Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in +Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication between +Timbuctoo and Egypt. 429 + +Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia or Night-blindness, +in a Letter addressed to the Editor of the Literary Panorama. 432 + +Letter to the same. 433 + +Critical Observations on Extracts from the Travels of Ali Bey and Robert +Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the Arts, +edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain. Vol. I. No. 2, p. 264. + 435 + +On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, or of +Sudan. 443 + +Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of +Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of +Marocco, &c. 446 + +Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names (by Catherine Hutton). + 455 + +Hints for the Civilization of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce, by +Vasco de Gama. 457 + +Plan for the Conquest of Algiers, by Vasco de Gama. 461 + +Letter from El Hage Hamed El Wangary, respecting a Review of Ali Bey's +Travels, in the "Portfolio," an American Periodical Work. 464 + +On the Negroes (by Vasco de Gama). 465 + +Cursory Observations on Lieutenant Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal of a +Route across India, through Egypt, to England. 467 + +On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Europe, Asia, and Africa. 471 + +Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an Account +of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors +that have been committed by European travellers on that Continent, from +their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the learned and the general +travelling Language of that interesting Part of the World. 474 + +Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa. 493 + +The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the sworne Esquires of Queen +Elizabeth, from Her Highness, to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Marocco, +and King of Fez and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. Written by Himselfe. 494 + +Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L., and E. 505 + +Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels in +Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D. by Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 508 + +Cursory Observations on African Names. 509 + +Letter to the Author from Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 513 + +On the Two Niles of Africa, or the Niger and the Nile. 514 + +APPENDIX. + +_Historical Fragments in Elucidation of the foregoing pages._ 519 + +First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo--Timbuctoo and Guago captured by +Muley Hamed (Son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk, or +Muley Moluck) in the Sixteenth Century (about the Year 1580). 519 + +A Library of 3000 Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards.--Contests +among Christians reprimanded. 520 + +Muley El Arsheed (a Second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan). 521 + +Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan. 523 + + + * * * * * + +DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. + + +Map of the Tracks across the Sahara to Timbuctoo, _to face_. 1 + +Map of the Empire of Marocco. 55 + + +[Illustration] + +1 + + AN + ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY + FROM + FAS TO TIMBUCTOO, + PERFORMED IN OR ABOUT THE YEAR 1787, A.C. + BY + _EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY_. + + + The Moors always prefer the spring and summer for travelling, + because they suffer very much from the severe cold of the mornings + in winter. They generally leave Fas in the beginning of April to + proceed to Timbuctoo, and they leave Timbuctoo to return to Fas in + the month of January. + + The Mecca caravan takes its departure from Fas the beginning of + March. + + In travelling, the Moors hire their camels from stage to stage. + Shabeeny's first stage was from Fas[1] to Tafilelt, which is + generally performed in about twenty days. + + [Footnote 1: This is a journey of crooked and rugged roads + across the Atlas mountains, where they often sojourn in spots + which invite the traveller, so that it takes a longer time to + perform it than the distance would indicate.] +2 + The hire of every camel was from ten to twelve ducats, at five + shillings sterling per ducat; as this route is through a very + mountainous country, and the travelling is very bad, the charges + were proportionally high; the weight which every camel carried was + between four and five quintals, the camels in this country being + strong and very large.[2] + + Tafilelt is the place of general meeting of all the merchants who + go to Timbuctoo.[3] + + The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns, but abounds in + fortresses with mud-walls[4], which the natives call El Kassar, and + which contain from three to four hundred families; in these + fortresses there is a public market (in Arabic, _soke_) every week, + where the inhabitants purchase provisions, &c. + + The natives of Tafilelt are descendants of the shereefs[5] or + princes of Marocco, and are therefore of the Imperial family. + + [Footnote 2: This charge of carriage by the camels from Fas to + Tafilelt, is equal to 55s., sterling per camel; to 1-1/2d. per + mile for each camel, and to one farthing and one third per + quintal of merchandise per mile.] + + [Footnote 3: That is for all who go from the Emperor of + Marocco's dominions, north of the river Morbeya, which is + called El Garb, or the North Western Division.] + + [Footnote 4: These mud walls are made in cases, and the mode of + erecting them is called _tabia_. See Jackson's Account of the + Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 298.] + + [Footnote 5: Hence it is called _Bled Shereef_, i.e. the + Country of Princes.] +3 + Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha[6], which he reached in six + days. The expense per camel was about six ducats, or thirty + shillings sterling. The district of Draha abounds in the small hard + date[7], which is very fine; from four to six drahems[8] (equal to + two to three shillings sterling) is the price of a camel load of + these dates. + + The province of Draha is larger than that of Tafilelt, its + circumference being about four or five days' journey. The + natives[9] of Draha are very dark, approaching to black, in their + complexion: this province abounds in fortresses, like those of + Tafilelt. + + [Footnote 6: A province at the foot of the mountains of Atlas, + south of Marocco, for which see the Map of West Barbary, in + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. p. 1.] + + [Footnote 7: This date is called by the natives _bouskree:_ it + contains a larger quantity of saccharine juice than any other + date. This province also produces a date called _btube_, which + is the best that grows, and is called _sultan de timmar_, i.e. + the king of dates. It is not used as an article of commerce, + but is sent as presents to the great, and costs nearly double + the price of those of any other quality: the quality mostly + used for foreign commerce, is the Tafilelt date, called _timmar + adamoh_, which is sold by the grocers in London. This species + is, however, considered very unwholesome food, and accordingly + is never eaten by the Filellies, or inhabitants of Tafilelt, + but is food for the camels. The district of Tafilelt abounds in + dates of all kinds: there are not less than thirty different + kinds; and the plantations of dates belonging to the princes of + Tafilelt are very extensive, insomuch that the annual produce + of one plantation is often sold for a thousand dollars, or 220 + sterling. Half a dollar, or five drahems per camel load of + three quintals.] + + [Footnote 8: A drahem is a silver coin, ten of which are equal + to a Mexico dollar.] + + [Footnote 9: Their colour is darker than new copper, but not + black, It may be compared to the colour of _old_ mahogany, with + a black hue. The natives of Draha are proverbially stupid.] +4 + The caravans have not, as in the journey to Mecca, their sheiks[10] + or commanders. From Fas to Tafilelt they had no chief, but as there + are generally a few old, rich, and respectable men in the caravan, + its direction and government are committed to their care. + + [Footnote 10: The _sheik akkabar_, or chief of the accumulated + caravan, is generally a _shereef_ or prince.] + + From Tafilelt, which, as before observed, is the country of the + shereefs, they are guided by such of the trading shereefs as + accompany the caravan, and who have always great respect paid them, + till they arrive at Timbuctoo. The caravan increases as it proceeds + in its journey: at Fas it consisted of about thirty or forty; at + Draha, of from 300 to 400 camels. From Draha, at the distance of + three days' travelling, they found water by digging, and on the + next morning they entered the _Sahara_, which, for the first twenty + days is a plain sandy desert resembling the sea. In this desert, + when they pitch their tents at night, they are obliged frequently + to shake the sand from their tops, as they would otherwise be + overwhelmed before the morning. + + Some part of this desert is hard, and the camels do not sink deep + into it; in others the sand is very loose, which fatigues the +5 camels exceedingly. In travelling, the caravan is directed by the + stars at night, and by the sun in the day, and occasionally by the + smell of the earth, which they take up in their hands. For the + first twenty days after they enter this wilderness they have no + water; during this period, the caravan is obliged to carry water in + goat-skins[11], as not a drop is to be found by digging. On this + account, about a third part of the camels are employed in carrying + water, and even with this quantity the camels are often left for + three or four days without any. They never use mules in this part + of the journey; they neither find the _sheh_[12], nor the thorny + plant so common in the deserts of Africa. + + The country on the borders of this desert, to the right and left, + is inhabited by roving Arabs, at the distance of three or four days + from the track which the caravan pursues; and is said to be partly + plain, and in part hilly, with a little grass, and a few shrubs; + when the cattle of these Arabs have consumed what grows in one + spot, their owners remove to another. The caravan, though it + generally consisted of about 400 men well armed, seeks its route + through the most unfrequented part of the desert, from a dread of + the attacks of the Arabs. The hottest wind is that from the + east-south-east, and is called _Esshume_[13]; the coldest is that + which blows from the west-north-west. To alleviate the great + drought which travellers feel in the desert, they have recourse to + melted butter.[14] + + [Footnote 11: These goat-skins, when containing water, are + called by the Arabs _kereb_, or _ghireb_, plur. _kerba_, or + _ghirba_, sing.] + + [Footnote 12: The _sheh_ is the wormseed plant, the thorny + plant here alluded to is the wild myrtle.] + + [Footnote 13: _Esshume_, or the hot wind. For a particular + description of this extraordinary wind, see Jackson's Account + of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 283 + and 284.] + + [Footnote 14: This is old butter kept several years in a + _matamore_, or subterraneous cavern. It is called by the Arabs + of the desert, _bdra_; and much virtue is ascribed to it when + it has attained a certain age: a small quantity swallowed, + quickly diffuses itself through the system.] + +6 After passing this desert of twenty days, they enter a country + which varies in its appearance, particular spots being fertile[15] + (called El Wah). Here they meet with _sederah_[16], a kind of wild + myrtle, in great quantities. This plant is called by the natives, + _gylan:_ its height is about that of a man; the camels feed upon + it. Between these shrubs there is a very small quantity of grass in + particular spots. In this part of the desert they meet with + extensive strata of stones: though the surface is generally sand, + yet at the depth of eight or ten inches, they meet with a yellow or + reddish earth; and about four feet deeper, with another kind of + earth of various colours, but most commonly of a brownish cast; +7 about five or six feet under this they find water, which springs + up very slowly, and at the bottom of this water you meet with a + light sand. Sometimes the water is sweetish, frequently brackish, + and generally warm. This last desert is about twenty days' journey, + and is a vast plain without any mountains. They meet with no Arabs + in this part, but the country on the right and left of their route, + at the distance of from three to eight days' journey, is inhabited + by Arabs, who are governed by their own (_sheiks_) chiefs, and are + perfectly independent. + + [Footnote 15: El Wah. For a full explanation of this term, see + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, 3d edition, p. + 283.] + + [Footnote 16: _Sederah_, thorny shrubs of all kinds are so + called.] + + From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of forty-three days, they meet + with no trees, except the _sederah_, no rivers, towns, or huts. + From Draha, which is a country abounding in camels, to Timbuctoo, + the charge per camel is from sixteen to twenty-one ducats.[17] That + so long a journey is performed at so small[18] an expense, is owing + to the abundance of camels in Draha. The caravan generally contains + from 300 to 400 men, of whom a great part prefer walking to the + uneasy motion of the camels. + + [Footnote 17: From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 11 ducats per + camel. + + Tafilelt to Draha, 6 do. 6 do. do. + + Draha to Timbuctoo, 48 do. 18-1/2 do. do. + + --- ---- + + 69 days, for 35-1/2 ducats per camel + load, which is about the rate of one farthing per quintal per + mile. This does not include the expense of camels for the + conveyance of merchants, servants, &c. or of provisions or + water, but merely of those carrying goods. A full account of + these caravans, and their mode of crossing the Sahara, will be + found in Jackson's Marocco, ch. 13.] + + [Footnote 18: The expense is now (A.C. 1818) smaller, as the + ducat, by a coinage which is depreciated, has fallen to 3s. 6d. + sterling.] +8 + SITUATION OF THE CITY OF TIMBUCTOO. + + On the east side of the city of Timbuctoo, there is a large forest, + in which are a great many elephants. The timber here is very large. + The trees on the outside of the forest are remarkable for having + two different colours; that side which is exposed to the morning + sun is black, and the opposite side is yellow. The body of the tree + has neither branches nor leaves, but the leaves, which are + remarkably large, grow upon the top only: so that one of these + trees appears, at a distance, like the mast and round top of a + ship. Shabeeny has seen trees in England much taller than these: + within the forest the trees are smaller than on its skirts. There + are no trees resembling these in the Emperor of Marocco's + dominions. They are of such a size that the largest cannot be + girded by two men. They bear a kind of berry about the size of a + walnut, in clusters consisting of from ten to twenty berries. + Shabeeny cannot say what is the extent of this forest, but it is + very large. Close to the town of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a + small rivulet in which the inhabitants wash their clothes, and + which is about two feet deep. It runs in the great forest on the + east, and does not communicate with the Nile, but is lost in the + sands west of the town. Its water is brackish; that of the Nile is +9 good and pleasant. The town of Timbuctoo is surrounded by a + mud-wall: the walls are built tabia-wise[19] as in Barbary, + viz. they make large wooden cases, which they fill with mud, and + when that dries they remove the cases higher up till they have + finished the wall. They never use stone or brick; they do not know + how to make bricks. The wall is about twelve feet high, and + sufficiently strong to defend the town against the wild Arabs, who + come frequently to demand money from them. It has three gates; one + called Bab Sahara, or the gate of the desert, on the north: + opposite to this, on the other side of the town, a second, called + Bab Neel, or the gate of the Nile: the third gate leads to the + forest on the east, and is called Beb El Kibla.[20] The gates are + hung on very large hinges, and when shut at night, are locked, as + in Barbary; and are farther secured by a large prop of wood placed + in the inside slopingly against them. There is a dry ditch, or + excavation, which circumscribes the town, (except at those places + which are opposite the gates,) about twelve feet deep, and too wide +10 for any man to leap it. The three gates of the town are shut + every evening soon after sun-set: they are made of folding doors, + of which there is only one pair. The doors are lined on the outside + with untanned hides of camels, and are so full of nails that no + hatchet can penetrate them; the front appears like one piece of + iron. + + [Footnote 19: The tabia walls are thus built: They put boards + on each side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the + ground, or attached to other stakes laid transversely across + the wall; the intermediate space is then filled with sand and + mud, and beat down with large wooden mallets, (as they beat the + terraces) till it becomes hard and compact; the cases are left + on for a day or two; they then take them off, and move them + higher up, repeating this operation till the wall is finished.] + + [Footnote 20: El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed: in most + African towns there is a Kibla-gate, which faces Medina in + Arabia.] + + POPULATION. + + The town is once and a half the size of Tetuan[21], and contains, + besides natives, about 10,000[22] of the people of Fas and Marocco. + The native inhabitants of the town of Timbuctoo may be computed at + 40,000, exclusive of slaves and foreigners. Many of the merchants + who visit Timbuctoo are so much attached to the place that they + cannot leave it, but continue there for life. The natives are all + blacks: almost every stranger marries a female of the town, who are + so beautiful that travellers often fall in love with them at first + sight. + + [Footnote 21: That is about four miles in circumference. Tetuan + contains 16,000 inhabitants; but, according to this account, + Timbuctoo contains 50,000, besides slaves, a population above + three times that of Tetuan: now, as the houses of Timbuctoo are + more spacious than those of Tetuan, it is to be apprehended + that Shabeeny has committed an error in describing the size of + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 22: Who go there for the purposes of trade.] + + INNS, OR CARAVANSERAS. + + When strangers arrive they deposit their merchandise in large + warehouses called fondacs; and hire as many rooms as they choose, +11 having stables for their camels, &c. in the same place. These + fondacs[23] are private property, and are called either by the + owner's name, or by that of the person who built them. The fondac, + in which Shabeeny and his father lived, had forty apartments for + men, exclusive of stables; twenty below and twenty above, the place + having two stories. The staircase was within the inclosure, and was + composed of rough boards; while he staid, the rooms were constantly + occupied by natives and strangers; they hired rooms for three + months, for which they paid thirty okiat, or fifteen shillings + sterling per month. These fondacs are called Woal[24] by the + negroes. The money was paid to the owner's agent, who always lives + in the fondac for this purpose, and to accommodate strangers with + provisions, &c. At their arrival, porters assisted them and + procured every thing they wanted; but when they were settled they + hired a man and a woman slave to cook and to clean their rooms, and + to do every menial office. Slaves are to be bought at all hours: + the slave-merchants keep a great number ready for sale. + + [Footnote 23: It is probable that Adams, the American sailor, + (if he ever was at Timbuctoo,) saw one of these fondacs that + belonged to the king, and mistook it for his palace.] + + [Footnote 24: Ten okiat, or drahems, make a Mexico dollar. The + name of the king of Timbuctoo, in 1800 A.C. was Woolo. Many of + the fondacs are rented of him.] + + HOUSES. + + In the houses little furniture is seen; the principal articles +12 (those of the kitchen excepted) are beds, mats on the floor, and + the carpets; which cover the whole room. The rooms are about + fourteen feet by ten; the kitchen and wash-house are generally to + the right and to the left of the passage; the necessary is next the + wash-house.[25] + + [Footnote 25: Being more convenient for the Muhamedan + ablutions.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + Timbuctoo is governed by a native black, who has the title of + sultan. He is tributary to the sultan of Housa, and is chosen by + the inhabitants of Timbuctoo, who write to the king of Housa for + his approbation. Upon the death of a sultan, his eldest son is most + commonly chosen. The son of a concubine cannot inherit the throne; + if the king has no lawful son (son of his wife) at his decease, the + people choose his successor from among his relations. The sultan + has only one lawful wife, but keeps many concubines: the wife has a + separate house for herself, children, and slaves. He has no + particular establishment for his concubines, but takes any girl he + likes from among his slaves. His wife has the principal management + of his house. The sultan's palace is built in a corner of the city, + on the east; it occupies a large extent of ground within an + inclosure, which has a gate. Within this square are many buildings; + some for the officers of state. The king often sits in the gate to + administer justice, and to converse with his friends. There is a +13 small garden within it, furnishing a few flowers and vegetables for + his table; there is also a well, from which the water is drawn by a + wheel.[26] Many female slaves are musicians. The king has several + sons, who are appointed to administer justice to the natives. + Except the king's relations, there are no nobles nor any privileged + class of men as in Barbary[27]: those of the blood-royal are much + respected. The officers of state are distinguished by titles like + those of Marocco; one that answers to an Alkaid, _i. e._ a captain + of 700, of 500, or of 100 men; another like that of Bashaw. The + king, if he does not choose to marry one of his own relations, + takes a wife from the family of the chiefs of his council; his + daughters marry among the great men. The queen-dowager has + generally an independent provision, but cannot marry. The + concubines of a deceased king cannot marry, but are handsomely + provided for by his successor. + + [Footnote 26: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a + mule or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a + trough as they pass round, which trough discharges the water + into the garden, and immerges the plants.] + + [Footnote 27: The privileged class of men in Barbary, are the + Fakeers; but no one in Barbary is noble but the King's + relations, who are denominated shereefs.] + + REVENUE. + + The revenue arises partly from land and partly from duties upon all + articles exposed to sale. The king has lands cultivated by farmers +14 who are obliged to supply his household and troops; the surplus + after the support of their own families is deposited in + matamores[28], these are stores to be used in time of scarcity: the + matamores are about six feet deep. The king often gives gold-dust, + slaves, &c. to his favorites, but the royal domains are never + given. Lands not very fruitful are common pastures. Moors pay no + duties; they say they will not bring goods if compelled to pay + duty, but the natives must pay; the duties are collected by the + king's officers, they are four per cent. upon each article _ad + valorem_. At the gate of the desert, goods brought by foreigners + pay nothing, but goods brought in by the gate of the Nile, (which + is the gate of the Negroes,) pay a tax: another part of the revenue + is two per cent, in kind on the produce of the land; but the people + of Barbary do not pay even this for what land they cultivate. The + property of those who die without heirs goes to the king, but when + a foreigner dies the king takes no part of his property; it is kept + for his relations. Timbuctoo being a frontier town remits no + revenue to Housa; the king of Housa sends money to Timbuctoo to pay + the garrison. + + [Footnote 28: Subterraneous excavations, or rooms in the form + of a cone, which have a small opening like a trap-door; when + these matamores are full of grain, they are shut, and the air + being excluded, the grain deposited in them will keep sound + twenty or thirty years. I have been in matamores in West and in + South Barbary, that would contain 1000 saas of wheat, or nearly + 2000 bushels Winchester measure. They are from six to sixteen + feet deep, and of various conical forms.] +15 + ARMY. + + The troops are paid by the king of Housa, and are armed with pikes, + swords, cutlasses, sabres, and muskets; the other natives use the + bow and arrow. At Timbuctoo, in time of war, there are about 12,000 + or 15,000 troops, 5000 of which receive constant daily pay in time + of peace, and are clothed every year; they are all infantry except + a few of the king's household. Sometimes he subsidises the friendly + Arabs, and makes occasional presents to their chiefs[29]; these + Arabs can furnish him with from 80,000 to 40,000 men. + + [Footnote 29: Of the Brabeesh clan; see the Map.] + + ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. + + Punishments are the bastinado, imprisonment, and fine. He + recollects but one prison. If a native stabs another, he is obliged + to attend the wounded man until he recovers; if he dies, the + offender is put to death. The offender must pay a daily allowance + to the wounded man for his support; if the wound appears dangerous, + the culprit is immediately imprisoned; if the wounded man recovers, + the offender must pay a fine and suffer the bastinado. There are + four capital punishments: beheading, hanging, strangling and + bastinadoing to death. Beheading is preferred; it is thus + performed: the criminal sits down, and a person behind gives him a + blow or push on the back or shoulder, which makes him turn his + head, and while his attention is thus employed, the executioner +16 strikes it off. Hanging and strangling are seldom used; and + bastinadoing to death, is only inflicted when the crime is highly + aggravated. Capital crimes are murder, robbery with violence, and + stealing cattle. Small offences, as stealing slaves and other + articles, are punished by the bastinado. The landed estates of + criminals are never forfeited.[30] The police is so good, that + merchants reside there in perfect safety. There are no exactions or + extortions practised by government, as in Barbary, nor even any + presents asked for the king. A debtor proving his inability, cannot + be molested[31]; but to the extent of his means he is always + liable; on refusing to pay, he may be imprisoned; but upon proving + his insolvency before the judge, he is discharged, though always + liable if he should have means at any future time. Watchmen patrole +17 in the night with their dogs; others are stationed in particular + places, as the market-place and the _kasserea_, or square, where + the merchants have their shops. Guards are placed at the king's + palace. Capital crimes are tried by the king: smaller offences by + inferior magistrates. The council sit with the king, every man + according to his rank; it consists of the principal officers of his + household; he asks _their_ opinion, but unless they are unanimous, + decides according to his own. There are always five or six judges + sitting in the king's court for the general administration of + justice. The king is understood to have no power of altering the + laws: if the council are unanimous, the king never decides against + them.[32] + + [Footnote 30: But go to the next heir.] + + [Footnote 31: This is the written Muhamedan law: the insolvent + is always liable, but cannot be arrested or imprisoned whilst + he remains insolvent, but continues always liable for the debt + if he afterwards becomes solvent. The present Emperor of + Marocco has lately published an edict. Hearing that his Jew + subjects in London frequently became bankrupts, or made + compositions with their creditors, has enacted, that all, + persons in his dominions who live by buying and selling, shall + pay their just debts; but if unable, their brethren, or + relations shall pay their creditors for them. If _they_ are + unable, the insolvent is to receive a beating every morning at + sunrise, to remind him of his defalcation. This law was enacted + at Fas in 1817, and since then, I am informed, no bankruptcy + has happened in that great commercial city.] + + [Footnote 32: This is a custom derived from Muhamedan + governments.] + + A slave is entirely at his master's disposal, who may put him to + death without trial; yet the slave may complain to the council of + ill-usage, and if the complaint be well-founded, his master is + ordered to sell him. The slaves are always foreign; a native cannot + be made a slave. There are three reasons for which a slave may be + entitled to freedom: _want of food, want of clothes, and want of + shoes_: an old slave is frequently set at liberty, and returns to + his own country. The children of slaves are the property of their + master. Slaves cannot marry without the consent of their masters. + The master of the female slave generally endeavours to buy the male + to whom she is attached.[33] + + [Footnote 33: Many conscientious Muhamedans, in purchasing + slaves, calculate how many years' service their purchase money + is equal to. Thus, if a man pays a servant twenty dollars + a-year for wages, and he gives 100 dollars for a slave, he + retains the slave five years, when, if his conduct has been + approved, he often discharges him from servitude. The period + for liberating slaves in this manner is however quite optional, + and admits of great latitude; neither is there any compulsion + in the master. I have known instances of a slave being + liberated after a few years of servitude; and his master's + confidence has been such that he has advanced him money to + trade with, and has allowed him to cross the desert to + Timbuctoo, waiting for the repayment of his money till his + return. This is often the treatment of Muhamedans to slaves! + how different from that practised by the Planters in the West + India Islands!!!] +18 + SUCCESSION TO PROPERTY. + + Upon the decease of a native, the first claim is that of his + creditors; the next is that of his widow, who is entitled to the + dower[34] promised by her husband to her father, if, not already + paid, and to one-eighth of the remainder; the rest is divided among + the children. A son's share is double that of a daughter. If they + agree, the land may be sold, if not, it must be divided as above. + Of lands and houses, nothing is sold till the children arrive at + the age of discretion; when each is entitled to his share, the rest + being unsold till the others are of age in turn. This age is not +19 fixed at so many years, but the period of discretion is determined + by the relations, upon oath, before a magistrate: there is hardly + any man that knows his own age. The father may dispose of his + property by will, as far as regards the property of his children, + but he cannot divest his wife of her rights; if a wife dies without + a will, her children succeed. Wills are not written; the guardian + appointed by the father takes care of the property of the deceased, + and employs in trade, and lends out the money for the benefit of + his children. Relations succeed if there are no children; and if + there are no relations, the king takes all but the wife's share. + The wife's relations are not considered as the husband's relations. + Children of concubines inherit equally with those of the wife. If a + man have two children by a concubine, she becomes free at his + death, otherwise she remains a slave. She is entitled, having + children, to an eighth of the property. + + [Footnote 34: The husband always stipulates to pay the father + of his wife a certain sum: this is the Muhamedan dower.] + + MARRIAGE. + + A man agrees to pay a certain price to the father of his wife, and + witnesses are called to support the proof of the contract: the girl + is sent home, and at night a feast is made by the husband for his + male friends; by the wife for her female friends. + + Rape is punished by death. Adultery is not punishable by the law, + nor is it a ground for divorce. A husband may always put away his +20 wife, but if without sufficient legal ground, he must pay her + stipulated dower. Abusive language is a sufficient ground of + divorce, but adultery is not. The dower is the price originally + agreed upon with the father; and if it has been already paid (which + it seldom is), she has no further claim upon the husband, though + put away without sufficient ground. Her clothes, jewels, &c. given + to her by her relations are her own property. A father generally + gives the daughter in jewels, &c. a present double the value of + that given him by the husband. A man can have but one wife, but may + keep concubines. Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by law. + The law says, "a woman's flesh is her own, she may do with it what + she pleases." Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his niece, + but not his daughter. + + The people of Timbuctoo are not circumcised. + + TRADE. + + Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the country of the blacks, + and even for Marocco and Alexandria. + + The principal articles of merchandise are tobacco, kameemas[35], + beads of all colours for necklaces, and cowries, which are bought +21 at Fas by the pound.[36] Small Dutch looking glasses, some of which + are convex, set in gilt paper frames. They carry neither swords, + muskets, nor knives, except such as are wanted in the caravan. At + the entrance of the desert they buy rock-salt[37] of the Arabs, who + bring it to them in loads ready packed, which they carry as an + article of trade. In their caravan there were about 500 camels, of + which about 150 or 200 were laden with salt. The camels carry less + of salt than of any other article, because (being rock-salt) it + wears their sides. They pay these Arabs from twenty to fifteen + ounces[38] of Barbary money per load. An ounce of Barbary is worth + about _6d._, and a ducat is worth about _5s._ sterling. They sell + this salt at Timbuctoo upon an average at 50 per cent. profit; it + is more profitable than linen. They take no oil from Barbary to + Timbuctoo as they are supplied from other places with fish-oil used + for lamps but not for food; they make soap with the oil. The + returns are made in gold-dust, slaves, ivory, and pepper; gold-dust + is preferred and is brought to Timbuctoo from Housa in small + leather bags. He bought one of these bags of gold-dust and pieces + of rings for 90 Mexican dollars, and sold it at Fas for 150. The + merchants bring their gold from Timbuctoo in the saddle-bags, in +22 small purses of different sizes one within the other. The bag which + Shabeeny purchased was bought at Housa, where it sells for seven or + eight ducats cheaper than at Timbuctoo. On articles from Marocco + they make from thirty to fifty per cent. clear profit. Cowries and + gold-dust are the medium of traffic. The shereefs and other + merchants generally sell their goods to some of the principal + native merchants, and immediately send off the slaves, taking their + gold-dust with them into other countries. The merchants residing at + Timbuctoo have agents or correspondents in other countries; and are + themselves agents in return. Timbuctoo is visited by merchants from + all the neighbouring black countries. Some of its inhabitants are + amazingly rich. The dress of common women has been often worth 1000 + dollars. A principal source of their wealth is lending gold-dust + and slaves at high interest to foreign merchants, which is repaid + by goods from Marocco and other countries, to which the gold-dust + and slaves are carried. They commonly trade in the public market, + but often send to the merchant or go to his house. Cowries in the + least damaged are bad coin, and go for less than those that are + perfect. There are no particular market days; the public market for + provisions is an open place fifty feet square, and is surrounded by + shops.[39] The Arabs sit down on their goods in the middle, till +23 they have sold them. The pound weight of Timbuctoo is about two + ounces heavier than the small pound of Barbary, which weighs twenty + Spanish dollars; they have also half and quarter pounds; by these + weights is sold milk, rice, butter, &c. as well as by the measure. + The weights are of wood or iron under the inspection of a + magistrate called in Barbary _m'tasseb, i.e._ inspector of weights + and measures, and if the weights are found deficient, he punishes + the offender immediately; they have also a quintal or cwt. They + have a wooden measure called a _m'hoad_[40], equal to the small + _m'hoad_ of Barbary, where a _m'hoad_ of wheat weighs about 24 lb. + Both the weights and measures are divided into 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and + 1/16. + + [Footnote 35: _Kameema_ is the Arabic word for the linen called + _plattilias_. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 36: Called, in Amsterdam, _Velt Spiegels_, and in + Timbuctoo, _Murrih de juah_.] + + [Footnote 37: This salt is bought at Tishet, at Shangareen, and + at Arawan, in the south part of Sahara; for which see the Map + of Northern and Central Africa, in the new Supplement to the + Encyclopdia Britannica, Article _Africa_.] + + [Footnote 38: _Okia_ is the Arabic name for this piece of + money.] + + [Footnote 39: Similar to the corn-market at Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 40: The _m'hoad_ is no longer used in Barbary. There + is a _krube_, of which sixteen are equal to a _saa_, which, + when filled with good wheat, weighs 100 lbs. equal to 119 lbs. + English weight.] + + MANUFACTURES. + + The black natives are smiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, and + masons, but not weavers. The Arabs in the neighbourhood are + weavers, and make carpets resembling those of Fas and of Mesurata, + where they are called telisse[41]; they are of wool, from their own + sheep, and camels' hair. The bags for goods, and the tents, are of + goats' and camels' hair; there are no palmetto trees in that + country. Their thread[42], needles, scissors, &c. come from Fas: +24 most of their ploughs they buy of the Arabs near the town, who are + subject to it. Some are made in the town. These Arabs manufacture + iron from ore found in the country, and are good smiths. They make + iron bars of an excellent quality. They tan leather for soles of + shoes very well, but know nothing of dressing leather in oil: the + upper leather comes from Fas[43]; their wooden combs[44] and spoons + come from Barbary; they have none of ivory or horn. No lead is + brought from Barbary; he thinks they have lead of their own. The + best shoes are brought from Fas. + + [Footnote 41: _Telissa_, sing.; _Telisse_, plur.] + + [Footnote 42: To Fas they are brought from England through + Gibraltar and Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 43: Leather is also imported from Marocco, and from + Terodant in South Barbary.] + + [Footnote 44: Wooden combs are imported from Marseilles to + Mogodor.] + + HUSBANDRY. + + The country is well cultivated, except on the side of the desert. + They have rice, _el bishna_[45], and a corn which _they_ call + _allila_[46], but in Barbary it is called _drh_: this requires + very rich ground. They make bread of _el bishna_: they have no + wheat or barley. Property is fenced by a bank and a ditch. Dews are + very heavy. Lands are watered by canals cut from the Nile; high + lands by wells, the water of which is raised by wheels[47] worked +25 by cattle, as in Egypt. They have violent thunder-storms in summer, + but no rains: the mornings and evenings, during winter, are cold; + the coldest wind is from the west, when it is as cold as at Fas. + The winter lasts about two months, though the weather is cool from + September to April. They begin to sow rice in August and September, + but they can sow it at any time, having water at hand: he saw some + sowing rice while others were reaping it. _El bishna_ and other + corn is sown before December. _El bishna_ is ripe in June and July; + as are beans. _Allila_ may be sown at all seasons; it requires + water only every eight or ten days. Their beans are like the small + Mazagan beans, and are sown in March; the stalk is short, but full + of pods. The _allila_ produces a small, white, flattish grain. + + [Footnote 45: _El Bishna_. This is the Arabic name for Indian + corn.] + + [Footnote 46: _Allila_, a species of millet.] + + [Footnote 47: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, as before + described in the note, page 13.] + + PROVISIONS. + + Rice is their principal food, but the rich have wheaten flour from + Fas[48], and make very fine bread, which is considered a luxury. + Bread is also made from the _allila_. They roast, boil, bake, and + stew, but make no _cuscasoe_. Their meals are breakfast, dinner, + and supper. They commonly breakfast about eight, dine about three, + and sup soon after sunset. They drink only water or milk with their + meals, have no palm wine or any fermented liquor; when they wish to +26 be exhilarated after dinner, they provide a plant of an + intoxicating quality called _el hashisha_[49], of which they take a + handful before a draught of water. + + [Footnote 48: And also from Marocco.] + + [Footnote 49: _El Hashisha_. This is the African hemp plant: it + is esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous + vacuity of mind which it produces on those who smoke it: unlike + the intoxication from wine, a fascinating stupor pervades the + mind, and the dreams are agreeable. The _kief_ is the flower + and seeds of the plant: it is a strong narcotic, so that those + who use it cannot do without it. For a further description of + this plant, see Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edit. p. 131 & + 132.] + + ANIMALS. + + Goats are very large, as big as the calves in England, and very + plentiful; sheep are also very large. Cattle are small; many are + oxen. Milk of camels and goats is preferred to that of cows. Horses + are small, and are principally fed upon camels' milk; they are of + the greyhound[50] shape, and will travel three days without rest. + They have dromedaries[51] which travel from Timbuctoo[52] to + Tafilelt in the short period of five or six days. + + [Footnote 50: These horses are the desert horse, or the + _shrubat er'reeh_. See Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edition, p. + 94. to 96.] + + [Footnote 51: These are _El Heirie_, (or _Erragual_), for a + particular description of which see Jackson's Marocco, p. 91. + to 93.] + + [Footnote 52: A distance of upwards of 1200 British miles.] +27 + BIRDS. + + They have common fowls, ostriches, and a bird larger than our + blackbird[53]; also storks, which latter are birds of passage, and + arrive in the spring and disappear at the approach of winter; + swallows, &c. + + [Footnote 53: The starling.] + + FISH. + + They have many extremely good in the Nile; one of the shape and + size of our salmon[54]; the largest of these are about four feet + long. They use lines and hooks brought from Barbary, and nets, like + our casting nets, made by themselves. They strike large fish with + spears and fish-gigs. + + [Footnote 54: The _shebbel_, a species of salmon, a very + delicate fish, but so rich that it is best roasted, which the + Arabs do in a superior manner.] + + PRICES OF DIFFERENT ARTICLES. + + Sheep from ten to sixteen cowries. Cowries[55] are much valued, and + form an ornament of head-dress even for the richest women; they are + highly valued as ornaments. Goats are cheaper than sheep; the best + from eight to twelve cowries. Fowls from four to six cowries each. + Antelopes are very scarce and dear. Camels from thirty to sixty + cowries, according to their size and condition. Ostriches, of which + vast numbers are brought to market, are very cheap; the + fore-feathers[56] are often carried to Tafilelt and Marocco, the +28 inferiors are thrown away. A good slave is worth ten, fifteen, or + twenty ducats of five shillings each; at Fas, they are worth from + sixty to a hundred ducats: females are the dearest. Slaves are most + valuable about twelve years old. They have fish-oil for lamps, but + use neither wax nor tallow for candles. The fish-oil is a great + article of trade, and is brought from the neighbourhood[57] of the + sea by Genawa[58] to Housa, and thence to Timbuctoo; dearer at + Timbuctoo than at Housa, and dearer at Housa than at Genawa. + + [Footnote 55: Cowries are called _El Uda_, and are sold in + Santa Cruz and in South Barbary, at twenty Mexico dollars per + quintal.] + + [Footnote 56: Called _Ujuh_.] + + [Footnote 57: Probably from the coast of Guinea, with which + Housa carries on an extensive trade.] + + [Footnote 58: _i.e._ Guinea; Genawa being the Arabic name for + the coast of Guinea.] + + DRESS. + + The sultan wears a white turban of very fine muslin, the ends of + which are embroidered with gold, and brought to the front; this +29 turban comes from Bengala.[59] He wears a loose white cotton shirt, + with sleeves long and wide, open at the breast; unlike that of the + Arabs, it reaches to the small of the leg; over this a _caftan_[60] + of red woollen cloth, of the same length; red is generally + esteemed. The shirt (_kumja_) is made at Timbuctoo, but the caftan + comes from Fas, ready made; over the caftan is worn a short cotton + waistcoat, striped white, red, and blue; this comes from Bengala, + and is called _juliba_.[61] The sleeves of the caftan are as wide + as those of the shirt; the breast of it is fastened with buttons, + in the Moorish style, but larger. The _juliba_ has sleeves as wide + as the caftan. When he is seated, all the sleeves are turned up + over the shoulder[62], so that his arms are bare, and the air is + admitted to his body. + + [Footnote 59: _i.e._ Bengal.] + + [Footnote 60: A _caftan_, or coat, with wide sleeves, no + collar, but that buttons all down before.] + + [Footnote 61: It is not the cotton cloth which comes from + Bengal that is named _Juliba_, but the fashion or the cut of + it.] + + [Footnote 62: The Moorish fashion.] + + Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of silk, like a pear; + one of the distinctions of royalty. He wears, also, a close red + skull-cap, like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one over each + shoulder, such as the Moors wear round the waist; they are rather + cords than sashes, and are very large; half a pound of silk is used + in one of them. The subjects wear but one; they are either red, + yellow, or blue, made at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, a sash + round the waist, also made at Fas; of these there are two + kinds,--one of leather, with a gold buckle in front, like those of + the soldiers in Barbary; the other of silk, like those of the + Moorish merchants. He wears (as do the subjects) breeches made in + the Moorish fashion, of cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of + woollen in winter, brought ready made from Fas. His shoes are + distinguished by a piece of red leather, in front of the leg, about + three inches wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and gold. +30 + When he sits in his apartment, he wears a dagger with a gold hilt, + which hangs on his right side: when he goes out, his attendants + carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance. + + His subjects dress in the same manner, excepting the distinctions + of royalty; viz. the pear, the sashes on the shoulders, and the + embroidered leather on the shoes. + + The sultana wears a caftan, open in front from top to bottom, under + this a slip of cotton like the kings, an Indian shawl over the + shoulders, which ties behind, and a silk handkerchief about her + head. Other women dress in the same manner. They wear no drawers. + The poorest women are always clothed. They never show their bosom. + The men and women wear ear-rings. The general expense of a woman's + dress is from two ducats to thirty.[63] Their shoes are red, and + are brought from Marocco.[64] Their arms and ankles are adorned + with bracelets. The poor have them of brass; the rich, of gold. The + rich ornament their heads with cowries. The poor have but one + bracelet on the leg, and one on the arm; the rich, two. They also + wear gold rings upon their fingers. They have no pearls or precious + stones. The women do not wear veils. + + [Footnote 63: Equal to from two to thirty Mexico dollars.] + + [Footnote 64: They are manufactured at Marocco.] +31 + DIVERSIONS. + + The king has 500 or 600 horses; his stables are in the inclosure; + the saddles have a peak before, but none behind. He frequently + hunts the antelope, wild ass, ostrich, and an animal, which, from + Shabeeny's description, appears to be the wild cow[65] of Africa. + The wild ass is very fleet, and when closely pursued kicks back the + earth and sand in the eyes of his pursuers. They have the finest + greyhounds in the world, with which they hunt only the + antelope[66]; for the dogs are not able to overtake the ostrich. + Shabeeny has often hunted with the king; any person may accompany + him. Sometimes he does not return for three or four days: he sets + out always after sunrise. Whatever is killed in the chace is + divided among the strangers and other company present; but those + animals which are taken alive are sent to the king's palace. He + goes to hunt towards the desert, and does not begin till distant + ten miles from the town. The antelopes are found in herds of from + thirty to sixty. He never saw an antelope, wild ass, or ostrich + alone, but generally in large droves. The ostriches, like the + storks, place centinels upon the watch: thirty yards are reckoned a + distance for a secure shot with the bow. The king always shoots on +32 horseback, as do many of his courtiers, sometimes with muskets, but + oftener with bows. The king takes a great many tents with him. + There are no lions, tigers, or wild boars near Timbuctoo. They play + at chess and draughts, and are very expert at those games: they + have no cards; but they have tumblers, jugglers, and + ventriloquists, whose voice appears to come from under the armpits. + He was much pleased with their music, of which they have + twenty-four different sorts. They have dances of different kinds, + some of which are very indecent. + + [Footnote 65: The _Aoudad_; for a particular description of + which, see Jackson's Marocco, Chapter V., Zoology, p. 84.] + + [Footnote 66: The Gazel, or Antelope, outruns at first the + greyhound; but after running about an hour the greyhound gains + on him.] + + TIME. + + They measure time[67] by days, weeks, lunar months, and lunar + years; yet few can ascertain their age. + + [Footnote 67: The hour is an indefinite term, and assimilates to + our expression of a good while; it is from half an hour by the dial + to six hours, and the difference is expressed by the word _wahad + saa kabeer_, a long hour; and _wahad saa sereer_, a little hour; + also by the elongation of the last syllable of the last word.] + + RELIGION. + + They have no temples, churches, or mosques, no regular worship or + sabbath; but once in three months they have a great festival, which + lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and is spent in eating + and drinking. He does not know the cause; but thinks it, perhaps, a + commemoration of the king's birth-day; no work is done. They +33 believe in a Supreme Being and another state of existence, and have + saints and men whom they revere as holy. Some of them are + sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary and Turkey; and though + physicians are numerous, they expect more effectual aid in sickness + from the prayers of the saints, especially in the rheumatism. Music + is employed to excite ecstasy in the saint, who, when in a state of + inspiration, tells (on the authority of some departed saint, + generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) what animal must be sacrificed + for the recovery of the patient: a white cock, a red cock, a hen, + an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal is then killed in + the presence of the sick, and dressed; the blood, feathers, and + bones are preserved in a shell and carried to some retired spot, + where they are covered and marked as a sacrifice. No salt or + seasoning is used in the meat, but incense is used previous to its + preparation. The sick man eats as much as he can of the meat, and + all present partake; the rice, or what else is dressed with it, + must be the produce of charitable contributions from others, not of + the house or family; and every contributor prays for the patient. + + DISEASES. + + The winds of the desert produce complaints in the stomach, cured by +34 medicine. They have professed surgeons and physicians. The bite of + a snake is cured by sucking the wound. They have the jlob[68] + violently, for which sulphur from Terodant in Suse is taken + internally and externally. This disorder is sometimes fatal. They + are afflicted also with fevers and agues. Bleeding is often + successful; the physicians prescribe also purgatives and emetics. + Ruptures are frequent and dangerous; seldom cured, and often fatal. + They tap for the dropsy. He never heard of the venereal disease + there. Head-aches and consumptions also prevail. The physicians[69] + collect herbs and use them in medicine. + + [Footnote 68: Probably the itch, called El Hack in Barbary.] + + [Footnote 69: The physicians have a very superior and general + knowledge of the virtues of herbs and plants.] + + MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. + + The nails and palms of the hands are stained red with henna[70], + cultivated there: the Arabs tatoo their hands and arms, but not the + people of Timbuctoo. These people are real negroes; they have a + slight mark on the face, sloping from the eye; the Foulans have a + horizontal mark; the Bambarrahees a wide gash from the forehead to + the chin. Tombs are raised over the dead; they are buried in a + winding-sheet and a coffin: the relations mourn over their graves, + and pronounce a panegyric on the dead. The men and women mix in +35 society, and visit together with the same freedom as in Europe. + They sleep on mattresses, with cotton sheets and a counterpane; the + married, in separate beds in the same room. They frequently bathe + the whole body, their smell would otherwise be offensive; they use + towels brought from India. At dinner they spread their mats and sit + as in Barbary. They smoke a great deal, but tobacco is dear; it is + the best article of trade. Poisoning is common; they get the poison + from the fangs of snakes, but, he says, most commonly from a part + of the body near the tail, by a kind of distillation. Physic, taken + immediately after the poison, may cure, but not always; if deferred + two or three days, the man must die: the poison is slow, wastes the + flesh, and produces a sallow, morbid appearance. It causes great + pain in the stomach, destroys the appetite, produces a consumption, + and kills in a longer or shorter time, according to the strength of + constitution. Some who have taken remedies, soon after the poison, + live 8 or 10 years; otherwise the poison kills in 4 or 5 days. + Physicians prescribe an emetic, the composition of which he does + not know. + + [Footnote 70: A decoction of the herb henna produces a deep + orange die. It is used generally by the females on their hands + and feet: it allays the violence of perspiration in the part to + which it is applied, and imparts a coolness.] + + NEIGHBOURING NATIONS. + + There are no Arabs between Timbuctoo and the Nile; they live on the +36 other side[71], and would not with impunity invade the lands of + these people, who are very populous, and could easily destroy any + army that should attempt to molest them. The lands are chiefly + private property. The Foulans are very beautiful. The Bambarrahs + have thick lips and wide nostrils. The king of Foulan is much + respected at Timbuctoo; his subjects are Muhamedans, but not + circumcised.[72] They cannot be made slaves at Timbuctoo; but the + Arabs steal their girls and sell them; not for slavery, but for + marriage. + + Girls are marriageable very young; sometimes they have children at + ten years old. + + [Footnote 71: North of the town.] + + [Footnote 72: All true Muhamedans are circumcised, so that they + must partake of Paganism if uncircumcised.] + +37 + + JOURNEY + FROM + TIMBUCTOO TO HOUSA. + + + + + Shabeeny, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Housa: and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached the + Nile in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, cultivated + country, abounding in trees, some of which are a kind of oak, + bearing a large acorn[73], much finer than those of Barbary, which + are sent as presents to Spain. Travelling is perfectly safe. They + embarked on the Nile in a large boat with one mast, a sail, and + oars; the current was not rapid: having a favourable wind, on his + return, he came back in as short a time as he went. The water was +38 very red and sweet.[74] The place where they embarked is called + Mushgreelia; here is a ferry, and opposite is a village. As the + current is slow, and they moored every night, they were eight or + ten days sailing down the stream to Housa. They had ten or twelve + men on board, and when it was calm, or the wind contrary, they + rowed; they steered with an oar, the boat having no rudder. He saw + a great many boats passing up and down the river; _there are more + boats_[75] _on this river between Mushgreelia and Housa than + between Rosetta and Cairo on the Nile of Egypt_. A great many + villages are on the banks. There are boats of the same form as + those of Tetuan and Tangiers, but much larger, built of planks, and + have ribs like those of Barbary; instead of pitch or tar, they are + caulked with a sort of red clay, or bole. The sail is of canvas of + flax (not cotton) brought from Barbary, originally from Holland; it + is square. They row like the Moors, going down the stream. + + [Footnote 73: Called El Belte. These acorns are much prized by + the Muhamedans, and are considered a very wholesome fruit.] + + [Footnote 74: The word hellue, in Arabic, which signifies + literally, sweet, here implies that the water was pure and + good.] + + [Footnote 75: See Jackson's Marocco, page 314, 2d or 3d + edition.] + + There is a road by land from Timbuctoo to Housa, but on account of + the expense it is not used by merchants: Shabeeny believes it is + about 5 days' journey. If you go this way, you must cross the river + before you reach Housa. They landed at the port of Housa, distant a + day and a half from the town; their merchandise was carried from + this port on horses, asses, and horned cattle; the blacks dislike + camels; they say, "_These are the beasts that carry us into + slavery_." +39 + The country was rich and well cultivated; they have a plant bearing + a pod called mellochia, from which they make a thick vegetable + jelly.[76] There is no artificial road from Timbuctoo to the Nile; + near the river the soil is miry. Shabeeny travelled from Timbuctoo + to Housa in the hot weather when the Nile was nearly full; it + seldom falls much below the level of its banks; he travelled on + horseback from Timbuctoo to the river, and slept two nights upon + the road in the huts of the natives. One of the principal men in + the village leaves his hut to the travellers and gives them a + supper; in the mean time he goes to the hut of some friend, and in + the morning receives a small present for his hospitality.[77] + + [Footnote 76: The pod of the mellochia, which grows near Sallee + and Rabat, is of an elongated conical form, about two inches + long.] + + [Footnote 77: This is a common custom in West and South + Barbary; they always clear a tent for the travellers.] + + THE RIVER NEEL OR NILE. + + The Neel El Kebeer[78], (that is, the Great Nile,) like the Neel +40 Masser or Nile of Egypt, is fullest in the month of August, when it + overflows in some places where the banks are low; the water which + overflows is seldom above midleg; the banks are covered with reeds, + with which they make mats. Camels, sheep, goats, and horses, feed + upon the banks, but during the inundation are removed to the + uplands. The walls of the huts both within and without are cased + with wood to the height of about three feet, to preserve them from + the water; the wells have the best water after the swelling of the + river. The flood continues about ten days; the abundance of rice + depends on the quantity of land flooded. He always understood that + the Nile empties itself in the sea, the salt sea or the great + ocean. There is a village at the port of Housa where he landed, the + river here is much wider than where he embarked, and still wider at + Jinnie. He saw no river enter the Nile in the course of his voyage. + It much resembles the Nile of Egypt, gardens and lands are + irrigated from it. Its breadth is various; in some places he thinks + it narrower than the Thames at London, in others much wider; at the + landing place they slept in the hut of a native, and next morning + at sunrise set off for Housa, where they arrived in twelve hours + through a fine plain without hills; the country is much more + populous than between Timbuctoo and the Nile. Ferry boats are to be + had at several villages. + + [Footnote 78: Properly Enneel. El is the article; but when it + precedes a word beginning with a letter called a labial, it + takes the sound of that letter. This error is committed + throughout a book, lately published, entitled Specimens of + Arabic Poetry, by J.D. Carlyle, Professor of Arabic in the + University of Cambridge, 2d edition p. 53, Abdalsalam, instead + of Abdassalum; p. 59, Ebn Alrumi, instead of Ebn Arrumi; and p. + 65, Alnarhurwany, for Annarhurwany, &c. &c.] +41 + HOUSA. + + They did not see the town till they came within an hour from it, or + an hour and a half; it stands in a plain. Housa is south-east[79] + of Timbuctoo, a much larger city and nearly as large as London. He + lived there two years, but never saw the whole of it. It has no + walls; the houses are like those of Timbuctoo, and form irregular + lanes or streets like those of Fas or Marocco, wide enough for + camels to pass with their loads. The palace is much larger than + that of Timbuctoo; it is seven or eight miles in circumference and + surrounded by a wall; he remembers but four gates, but there may be + more; he thinks the number of guards at each gate is about 50; it + is in that part of the town most distant from the Nile. The houses + are dark coloured and flat roofed. He thinks Cairo is about + one-third larger than Housa; the streets are much wider than those + of Timbuctoo; the houses are covered with a kind of clay of + different colours but never white. They have no chalk or lime in + the country. + + [Footnote 79: Rather south-east by east.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + If the king has children, the eldest, if a man of sense and good + character, succeeds; otherwise, one of the others is elected. The +42 grandees of the court are the electors. If the eldest son be not + approved, they are not bound to elect him; he has, however, the + preference, and after him the other sons; but the choice of the + council must be unanimous, and if no person of the royal line be + the object of their choice, they may elect one of their own body. + The members of the council are appointed by the king; he chooses + them for their wisdom and integrity, without being limited to rank: + the person appointed cannot refuse obedience to the royal mandate. + The council consists of many hundreds. The governor who controls + the police lives in the centre of the town. + + THE ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE + + Is very similar to that of Timbuctoo, except that the king is + perfectly despotic; and though he consults his council, he decides + as he thinks proper. The governor administers justice in small + affairs; but, in important cases, he refers the parties to the king + and council, of which he is himself a member. No torture, is ever + inflicted. The governor employs a great number of officers of + police at a distance from the town. If robberies are committed, the + person robbed must apply to the chief of the district, who must + find or take into custody the offender, or becomes himself liable + to make compensation for the injury sustained.[80] + + [Footnote 80: This is also the law in West Barbary. When a + robbery is committed, the district where it has been committed + is made liable for double the amount; the half goes to the + person robbed, and the other half to the treasury. The good + effects of this law is admirable, insomuch that it has almost + annihilated robbery: but when one has actually been committed, + the energy and exertion of every individual is directed to + discover the depredator, and they seldom fail to discover him. + The fear of the penalty also makes them very cautious who they + admit among them; and very inquisitive respecting the character + and vocation of all, strangers in particular, who sojourn in + their country!!] +43 + LANDED PROPERTY. + + They have a class of men whose peculiar business it is to adjust + all disputes concerning land; the office is hereditary; _the + offender_ pays the compensation, and also the fees of these + officers; _the innocent_ pays nothing. When lands are bought, these + officers measure them. There is a plant resembling a large onion, + which serves as a land-mark; if these are removed, (which cannot be + easily done without discovery) reference is had to the records of + the sale, of which every owner is in possession; they express the + sum received; the quantity, situation, and limits of the land. + These are given by the seller, and are written in the language and + character of the country, very different from the Arabic. The same + letters are used at Timbuctoo. They write from right to left. The + character[81] was perfectly unintelligible to Shabeeny. Children, +44 whose father is dead, succeed to the same portion of their + grandfather's property as their father would, had _he_ out outlived + _his_ father, though there are other issue of the grandfather. The + rules of succession are the same as at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 81: Possibly the ancient Carthaginian character.] + + Persons of great landed property, of which there are many, employ + agents or stewards; they let the lands, and the rents are paid + sometimes in kind, and sometimes in gold-dust and cowries. Houses + are let by the month. He paid four Mexico dollars per month; but a + native would not have paid above two for the same house. A man who + has five Mexico dollars[82] a month, is esteemed in easy + circumstances; those, however, who have 30 or 40 per month, are + common. + + [Footnote 82: Ten dollars worth of rice is sufficient for the + daily food of a man a twelve-month.] + + REVENUES. + + The king has 2 per cent. on the produce of the land. The revenues + arise from the same sources as at Timbuctoo, but are much larger. + Foreign merchants pay nothing, as the Housaeens think they ought to + be encouraged. The revenue is supposed to be immense. + + ARMY. + + He cannot precisely tell the number of troops, but believes the + king can raise 70,000 to 80,000 horse, and 100,000 foot. The horses +45 are poor and small, except a few kept for the king's own use. He + has no well-bred mares. Their arms are the same as at Timbuctoo; + the muskets, which are matchlocks, are made in the country. They + are very dexterous in throwing the lance. Gunpowder is also + manufactured there; the brimstone is brought from Fas; the charcoal + they make; and he believes they prepare the nitre.[83] Their arrows + are feathered and barbed; the bows are all cross-bows, with + triggers; the arrows, 20 to 40 in a quiver, are made of hides, and + hang on the left side. The king never goes to war in person. The + soldiers have a peculiar dress; their heads are bare; but the + officers have a kind of turban; the soldiers have a shirt of coarse + white cotton, and yellow slippers; those of the officers are red. + Some have turbans adorned with gold. They carry their powder in a + leather purse; the match, made of cotton, is wound round the gun; + they have flint and steel in a pouch, and also spare matches. + + [Footnote 83: The saltpetre and brimstone are probably derived + from Terodant in Suse, where both abound.] + + THE TRADE + + Is similar to that of Timbuctoo; in both places foreign merchants + always employ agents, or brokers, to trade to advantage; a man + should reside sometime before he begins. Ivory is sold by the + tooth; he bought one, weighing 200 lb. for five ducats (1_. 5s._); + he sold it in Marocco for 25 ducats, per 100 lb.; it is now[84] + worth 60. + + [Footnote 84: A.D. 1795.] +46 + The king cannot make any of his subjects slaves. They get their + cotton from Bengala.[85] They have no salt, it comes from a great + distance, and is very dear. Goods find a much better market at + Housa than at Timbuctoo. There are merchants at Housa from Timboo, + Bornoo, Moshu, and India; the travelling merchants do not regard + distance. From Timboo and other great towns he has heard, and from + his own knowledge can venture to assert, that they bring East India + goods. Gold-dust, ivory, and slaves are the principal returns from + Housa. The people of Housa have slaves from Bornoo, Bambarra, + Jinnie, Beni Killeb[86] (sons of dogs), and Beni Aree (sons of the + naked); they are, generally, prisoners of war, though many are + stolen when young, by people who make a trade of this practice. The + laws are very severe against this crime; it requires, therefore, + great cunning and duplicity; no men of any property are ever guilty + of it. The slave stealers take the children by night out of the + town, and sell them to some peasant, who sells them to a third, and + so from hand to hand, till they are carried out of the country; if + this practice did not exist, there would be few slaves for the + Barbary market. Beyond the age of fourteen or fifteen, a slave is +47 hardly saleable in Barbary. Few merchants bring to Housa above two + or three slaves at a time; but there are great numbers of merchants + continually bringing them. His own slave was a native of Bambarra, + and was brought very young to Timbuctoo. Slaves are generally + stupid; but his, on the contrary, was very sensible; he understood + several languages, particularly Arabic; he bought him as an + interpreter; he would not have sold publicly for above twenty + ducats; but he gave 50 for him; his master parting with him very + reluctantly. He bought two female slaves at Housa, at 15 ducats + each.[87] The value of slaves has since then doubled in Barbary; he + does not know the present[88] price at Timbuctoo. At Timbuctoo not + ten slaves in the hundred bought there, are females; when bought, + the merchant shuts them up in a private room, but not in chains, + and places a centinel at the door: when the confidence of any of + them is supposed to be gained, they are employed as centinels. + Housa having a great trade, is much frequented by people from + Bambarra, Foulan, Jinnie, and the interior countries. + + Manufactures and husbandry are similar to those at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 85: Bengal, or the East Indies.] + + [Footnote 86: Properly Ben Ekkilleb, or Hel Ekkileb, i.e. the + canine-race. These are described to be swift of foot and low of + stature, having a language peculiar to themselves.] + + [Footnote 87: About the 1790th year of the Christian era.] + + [Footnote 88: In the year 1795.] + + CLIMATE. + + The hot winds blow from the east; the summer is hotter than in +48 Marocco, and hotter at Timbuctoo than at Housa. The cold winds are + from the west: the morning fog is great. He never saw it rain at + Housa, in the course of two years; he says it never rains there. + Scarcity is never known. A considerable part of their provisions is + brought from the banks of the Nile; the river, when overflowing, + never reaches above half way from its common channel towards Housa. + They have excellent wells in their houses, but no river near the + town. + + ZOOLOGY. + + He saw no camels at Housa, but heard, they use them to fetch gold, + and cover their legs with leather, to guard them from snakes. They + have dogs and cats, but no scorpions or snakes in their houses. + Lice, bugs, and fleas abound. He saw no wild animals or fowl in the + neighbourhood of Housa. + + DISEASES. + + Physicians agree with the patient for his cure. No cure no pay. The + prevailing diseases are colds and coughs. + + RELIGION. + + The same as at Timbuctoo; the poorer classes, as in most countries, + have many superstitious notions of spirits, good and bad, and are + alarmed by dreams, particularly, the slaves, some of whom cannot + retain their urine in the night, as he thinks, from fear of +49 spirits, they take them often upon trial when they buy them, and if + they have this defect, a considerable deduction is made in the + price. A man possessed by a good spirit is supposed to be safe + amidst 10,000 shot. A man guilty of a crime, who in the opinion of + the judge is possessed by an evil spirit, is not punished! He never + heard of a rich man being possessed. + + PERSONS. + + They are of various sizes, but the tallest man he ever saw was at + Housa. The city being very large, he seldom had an opportunity of + seeing the king, as at Timbuctoo. He saw him but twice in two + years, and only in the courts of justice; he was remarkable for the + width of his nostrils, the redness of his eyes, the smoothness of + his skin, and the fine tint of his perfectly black complexion. + + DRESS. + + Like that of Timbuctoo, their turbans are of the finest muslin. The + sleeves of the soldiers are small, those of the merchants wide. The + former have short breeches, the latter long. The officers dress + like the merchants, each according to his circumstances. The caftan + is of silk, in summer, brought from India; instead of the silk + cords worn by the king of Timbuctoo, the king of Housa wears two + silk sashes, three fingers broad, one on each shoulder; they are +50 richly adorned with gold; in one hangs his dagger, and when he + rides out, his sword in the other; he wears not the silk pear in + his turban, as does the king of Timbuctoo. The front of his turban + is embroidered with gold. + + BUILDINGS. + + The houses are like those at Timbuctoo, but many much larger. They + have no wind or water-mills, but they have stone mills, turned by + horses. + + MANNERS. + + They never bow. An inferior kisses the hand of a superior; to an + equal he nods the head, gives him his hand and asks him how he + does. The women do the same. + + The general body are honest and benevolent, the lower class is + addicted to thieving. They are very careful of children, to prevent + their being stolen. Snakes do not frequent cultivated lands, so + that animals are not there in danger from them. The people of + Timbuctoo and Housa resemble each other in their persons and in + their manners. They castrate bulls, sheep, and goats, but never + horses. Supper is the principal meal. They do not use vessels of + brass or copper in cookery; they are all of earthenware. At sunset + the watchmen are stationed in all parts of the town, and take into + custody all suspected or unknown persons. They have lamps made of + wood and paper; the latter comes from Fas. Women of respectability +51 are attended by a slave when they walk out or visit, which they do + with the same freedom as in Europe. The women ride either horses or + asses, they have no mules; the men commonly prefer walking, they + are strong and seldom sensible of fatigue, which he attributes to + their having a rib more than white men. Some bake their own bread, + others buy it, as in England. They make leavened bread of + allila[89] and bishna; the cattle-market is within the city, in a + square, appropriated to this purpose. There are a great many rich + men, some by inheritance, others by trade. Every morning the doors + of the rich are crowded with poor, the master sends them food, + rice, milk, &c. They have names for every day. They make their own + pipes for smoking, the tubes are of wood. They have songs, some + with chorus, and some sung by two persons in alternate stanzas. + They have the same feasts once a quarter as at Timbuctoo. The king + has but one wife, but many concubines. The favourite slaves of the + queen of Housa are considered as superior to the queen of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 89: Millet and Indian corn.] + + GOLD. + + The ground where it is found is about sixteen miles from Housa. + They go in the night with camels whose legs and feet are covered to + protect them against snakes, they take a bag of sand, and mark with +52 it the places that glitter with gold; in the morning they collect + where marked, and carry it to refiners, who, for a small sum, + separate the gold. There are no mountains or rivers near the spot, + it is a plain without sand, of a dark brown earth. Any person may + go to seek gold; they sell it to the merchants, who pay a small + duty to the king. The produce is uncertain; he has heard that a + bushel of earth has produced the value of twelve ducats, three + pounds sterling, of pure gold. They set out from Housa about two + o'clock in the afternoon, arrive about sun-set, and return the next + day seeking for gold during the whole night. + + LIMITS OF THE EMPIRE + + Beyond Timboo, on the north side of the Nile, are very extensive. + Afnoo is subject to the king of Housa, no slaves can be made from + thence. Darfneel is near Afnoo; the latter is on the north side of + the river, nearer to its source, and a great way from Timbuctoo. No + Arabs are found on the banks of the Nile. He supposes the + circumference of the empire to be about twenty-five days' journey; + has heard that many other large towns are dependent upon it, but + does not remember their names. + + The neighbouring countries are Bambarra, Timboo, Mooshee, and + Jinnie; all negroes. He has heard of Bernoo[90] as a great empire. +53 + On the 31st of March, 1790, Shabeenee gave further information, in + the presence of Lord Rawdon[91], Mr. Stuart, and Mr. Wedgewood. Mr. + Wedgewood proposed the questions, and Mr. Dodsworth interpreted. + The following is some of the information, omitting what has been + noticed already. + + Between Timbuctoo and Housa, there is a very good trade. Timbuctoo + is tributary to the king of Housa. The imports into Timbuctoo[92] + are spices, corn, and woollens from Barbary, and linens from the + sea-coast. + + [Footnote 90: Ber Noh, or Bernoh, _i.e._ the country of Noah, + is said by the Africans, to be the birth-place of the patriarch + Noah.] + + [Footnote 91: Now the Marquis of Hastings.] + + [Footnote 92: For a more detailed account of the imports to + Timbuctoo, see Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c.] + + The written character is very large, perhaps half an inch long. The + empire is divided into provinces; the provinces into districts. The + king appoints the governors of both; but the son of the deceased + governor is understood to have the preference. + + They make their pottery by a wheel, but do not glaze it. The wheel + turns upon a pivot placed in a hole in the ground: at top and + bottom are two pieces of wood like a tea-table; the lower, which is + largest, is turned by the foot, and the upper forms the vessel. + When they make a large pot, they put on the top a larger piece: the + pots are dried in the sun or burnt in the fire. The iron mines are + in the desert; the iron is brought in small pieces by the Arabs, +54 who melt and purify it. They cannot cast iron. They use charcoal + fire, and form guns and swords with the hammer and anvil. The + points of their arrows are barbed with iron; the crossbows have a + groove for the arrow. No man can draw the bow by his arm alone, + they have a kind of lever; the bow part is of steel brought from + Barbary, and is manufactured at Timbuctoo. They do not make steel + themselves. + + They inoculate for the small-pox; the pus is put into a dried + raisin and eaten. "_Rooka Dindooka_" is a kind of oath, and means, + by God. They believe only one God. After dinner they use the Arabic + expression, El Hamd Ulillah; praise to be to God.[93] + + They believe the immortality of the soul, and that both men and + women go to paradise; that there is no future punishment; the + wicked are punished in this world. Happiness, after death, consists + in being in the presence of God. They are not circumcised. A + divorce may take place while a woman is pregnant, but she cannot + marry again till delivered. As soon as a woman is divorced, + midwives, women brought up to that profession, examine her to see + whether she is pregnant. + + [Footnote 93: This is the Arabic, or Muhamedan grace after + meat; the grace before meat is equally sententious, viz. + Bismillah, i.e. in the name of God.] + +[Illustration: map of West Barbary] + +55 + + LETTERS + CONTAINING + AN ACCOUNT OF JOURNIES + THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF + WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AT DIFFERENT PERIODS, + PERFORMED PERSONALLY BY J.G.J. + + + + + LETTER I. + + _On the opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz in Suse, and + of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to the Dutch._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + (Late British Consul for Senegambia) Eversholt, near Woburn, + Bedfordshire. + + Mogodor, 28th February, 1792. + + The emperor has consented to the proposition of the Dutch + government, to open the port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the + province of Suse, to the commerce of that nation; and I have + finally resolved to establish a house there, so soon as the sultan + Yezzid's order respecting that port shall reach the hands of Alkaid + Aumer ben Daudy, the governor of this port. There are various + political intrigues in agitation, to deter me from going personally +56 to establish the commerce of this most desirable and long-neglected + port of Santa Cruz. The governor anticipates a considerable + diminution in the treasury of Mogodor; and the merchants of this + place anticipate a great diminution of the various articles of + produce of this fine country, seeing that the principal articles of + exportation from the empire of Marocco are produced in the province + of Suse, and in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz. + + The stream of commerce will, therefore, necessarily be converted + from Mogodor to Santa Cruz. The merchants of Fas also, who have + their establishments and connections at Timbuctoo, and in other + parts of Sudan, will resort to Santa Cruz in preference to Mogodor, + for all European articles calculated for the markets of Sudan, the + former port being in the neighbourhood of the desert, or Sahara, + and at a convenient distance from Akka in Lower Suse, the general + rendezvous of the akkaba, (or accumulated caravans,) destined for + the interior regions of Africa or Sudan. This akkaba starts + annually for Timbuctoo, consisting of 2000 or 3000 camels, loaded + with merchandise from Fas, Tetuan, Sallee, Mogodor, Marocco, + Tafilelt, Draha, and Terodant. The port of Santa Cruz is hence +57 aptly denominated _Beb Sudan_, i.e. the gate or entrance of Sudan. + The port of Santa Cruz was formerly farmed by the emperor[94] Muley + Ishmael, to some European power, for 50,000 dollars a-year, as I + have been informed; others say it was purchased of him by his own + Jewish subjects, for the purposes of trade. However this may have + been, no advantage was ever taken of the favourable opportunity + then offered, of opening and securing to Europe an extensive and + lucrative trade with the various countries of Sudan or Nigritia. + + I can account for this omission only by supposing that the interior + of Africa was then less known than even it now is; and that the + merchants then established at Santa Cruz, had there sufficient + advantages in commerce to engage their attention, without examining + into this immense undiscovered mine of wealth! + + [Footnote 94: Great-grandfather of Muley Soliman, the present + emperor, who is denominated Soliman ben Muhamed ben Abdallah + ben Ismael.] +58 + + LETTER II. + + _The Author's arrival at Agadeer or Santa Cruz.--He opens the Port + to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception on landing + there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading Custom + that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on + Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a + Sanctuary at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been + considered Holy Ground, and none but Muhamedans had ever before + been permitted to enter the Gates on Horseback._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 7th March, 1792. + + _The emperor's[95] letter ordering the port of Santa Cruz to be + opened to the Dutch_, having reached Mogodor, and having received + my instructions from Webster Blount, Esq. Dutch consul-general to + this empire, to act as agent for him at that port, until my + appointment be ratified and confirmed by the States General, of + which he informs me there is no doubt, I proceeded hither in the + Snell Zee Post, Dirk Morris, master; and after being becalmed off + (Affernie) Cape de Geer, I arrived here the third morning after my + departure from Mogodor. I sent my horses by land; and on our +59 approach to the shore, I discovered them approaching the mountain + on which Santa Cruz stands. Soon after we came to anchor in the + road, the boats came off, and the battery, which is situated about + half-way up the mountain on the western declivity, saluted me with + 8 guns, (the Muhamedans always saluting with an even number.) This + compliment being unexpected, we were about half an hour preparing + to return it, when we saluted the battery with 9 guns. The captain + of the port received me with great courtesy, and was ordered by the + bashaw El Hayanie, governor of Santa Cruz, to pay the most + unqualified attention to my wishes. I landed amidst an immense + concourse of people, assembled on the beach to witness the + re-establishment of their port, most of whom were without shoes, + and very ill clad. + + [Footnote 95: See specimens of Arabic epistolary + correspondence, Appendix, Letter 9th.] + + The most hearty exclamations of joy and approbation were manifested + by the people when I landed; a merchant was come to establish, once + more, that commerce by which the fathers of the present generation + had prospered; and their sons appeared to know full well the + advantages that again awaited their industry, which for 30 years + had not been exercised. I mounted my horse on the beach, amidst the + general acclamations of the people, and ascended the mountain, on + the summit of which is the town. On my arrival at the gate, I was + courteously received by the bashaw's sons; who, however, informed +60 me that the entrance of Santa Cruz was ever considered holy ground, + and that Christians, during its former establishment, always + descended and entered the town on foot, intimating at the same time + that it was expected I should do the same. I had been before + cautioned by Mr. Gwyn, the British consul at Mogodor, not to + expostulate at this request, as it would certainly be required of + me to conform to ancient usages. But I knew too well the + disposition of the people, and the great desire that pervaded all + ranks to have the port established; I therefore turned my horse, + and told the bashaw's sons, that I was come, with the blessing of + God, to bring prosperity to the land, to make the poor rich, and to + improve the condition and multiply the conveniences of the opulent; + that I came to establish commerce for _their_ advantage, not for + mine; that it was indifferent to me whether I returned to Mogodor + or remained with them. The sons of the bashaw became alarmed, and + entreated me, with clasped hands, to wait till they should report + to the bashaw my words and observations. I consented, and soon + after they returned with their father's earnest request that I + should enter a-horseback: old customs, said the venerable old + bashaw when, immediately afterwards, I met him in the street; old + customs are abolished, enter and go out of this town a-horseback or + a-foot, we desire the prosperity of this port, and that its + commerce may flourish; _All the people of Suse hail you as their +61 deliverer, God has sent you to us to turn the desert into_ (jinen + afia) _a fruitful garden; come, and be welcome, and God be with + you._ + + I was conducted to the best house in the town, a house which + belonged to our predecessor, Mr. Grover; and I was informed, that + if any demur had been made by the bashaw respecting my entrance + through the sanctuary or holy ground, it might have caused an + immediate insurrection; so anxious and impatient were all ranks of + people for the new establishment of this eligible port of Suse. + + The privilege thus established, of riding in and out of the town, I + continued; and I procured it immediately afterwards for all + Christians! even masters of ships and common sailors. +62 + + LETTER III. + + _The Author makes a Commercial Road down the Mountain, to + facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and Liberality of the + Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description of the + Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength + of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Aguzem, and the Portuguese Spring and + Tank there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a + Fort.--Eligibility of the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial + Depot to Supply the whole of the Interior of North Africa with East + India and European Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to + Commerce and Industry, if Opportunity offered._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 20th March, 1792. + + The road up the mountain of Santa Cruz was so dangerous and + impassable, that I undertook to repair it; accordingly, I agreed + with a Shilluh to make it safe and convenient for transporting + goods for shipment; and such was the eager desire of the people for + the establishment of the port, that hundreds brought stones and + assisted gratuitously in the construction of this road; so that + what would have cost in England thousands of pounds, was here + completed for a few hundred dollars. + + The natives of this long-neglected territory were too acute not to + perceive the field of wealth that was thus opened to their +63 industry; they were convinced, from the traditions of their + fathers, of the incalculable benefits that would arise from a + commercial reciprocity; and they were determined to cultivate the + opportunity that was now offered to put them in possession of those + commercial advantages which their fathers had enjoyed before: the + benefits of which they had often related to their children, when + they talked of the prosperity and riches of the country during the + reign of Muley Ismael, when this port was before open to foreign + commerce. Agreeably to these well-founded anticipations, the genial + influence of commerce began, soon after my arrival, to manifest + itself throughout all ranks and denominations of men; _the whole + population visibly improved in their apparel and appearance; new + garments were now becoming common, and were every where substituted + for the rags and wretchedness before witnessed on landing here._ + + About four miles east of Santa Cruz, in a very romantic valley + surrounded by mountains, are found the ruins of a Portuguese tower. + _Tildie_, which is the name of this place, abounds in plantations + of the most delicious figs, grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour, citrons, oranges, water-melons, walnuts, + apricots in great abundance, and peaches, &c. &c. + + I invited a party of Arabs to accompany me to this delightful + retreat, where we dined: the Arabs killed two sheep; one they + roasted whole on a wooden spit, made on the spot; the other they +64 baked whole in an oven made for the purpose, in the following + manner: A large hole was dug in the ground; the inside was + plaistered with clay; after which they put fire in the hole till + the sides were dry; they then put the sheep in, and the top was + covered by clay in the form of an arch, fashioned and constructed + by the hand only; they afterwards made a large trough round this + temporary oven, and filled it with wood, to which they set fire. + The sheep was about three hours preparing in this manner, and it + was of exquisite flavour; the roasted mutton also was equally well + flavoured. No vegetables were served with this repast; for I had + desired that the fare should be precisely according to their own + custom; I therefore declined interfering with the arrangement of + the food. This mode of cooking is in high estimation with + travellers. These people never eat vegetables with their meat. When + they see Europeans eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of + vegetables, they express their surprise, observing that the taste + of the vegetables destroys the taste of the meat; and _vice versa_, + that the taste of the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables! + + The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit of a branch of the + Atlas, by the Portuguese, is enclosed by a strong wall, fortified + with bastions mounting cannon; it is about a mile in circumference. + Half way down the mountain, on the western declivity, opposite the + sea, stands a battery, which defends the town, towards the north, +65 south, and west, at the foot of the mountain. Westward, on the + shore of the sea, stands a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the + natives of this country,) Agurem. There is a copious spring of + excellent water at Agurem, built and ornamented by the Portuguese, + when they had possession of this country, and called by them + _Font_, which name the town still retains, and is so called by + Europeans. The royal arms of Portugal are seen, carved in stone, + over the tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water from here, + having none but rain-water in the town, which is collected in the + rainy season, and preserved in subterraneous apartments, called + mitferes[96], one of which is attached to every respectable house, + and contains sufficient for the consumption of the family during + the year. The natural position of Santa Cruz is extremely strong, + perhaps not less so than Gibraltar, though not on a peninsula; and + it might, in the hands of an European power, be made impregnable + with very little expense; it might also be made a very convenient + and most advantageous depot for the establishment of an extensive +66 commerce with the whole of the interior of North Africa. An attempt + of this kind was made about forty or fifty years since, by the + Danes, who anchored with several ships, and landed a mile south of + Agurem; and with stones, all ready cut, and numbered, erected on an + eminence[97], by the dawn of the following day, a battery of twelve + guns. But by a stratagem of the bashaw El Hayanie, who at that time + was bashaw of Suse, they were rendered unable to retain possession + of their fort; their plans were accordingly disconcerted, and the + adventurers retreated, and returned to their ships. + + [Footnote 96: The mitfere under my house at Santa Cruz, + contained, when full, four hundred pipes of water. At the + termination of the rainy season in March, it was generally + about two-thirds full, supplied from the flat roof or terras + during the rainy season. There was always much more than we + could consume, accordingly great quantities were distributed + among the poor, about the close of the season, or the autumn + previous to the next rainy season.] + + [Footnote 97: Called Agadeer Arba.] + + At the south-east extremity of the wall of Santa Cruz there is a + round battery, which protects the town from west to east; and might + be made to protect the valley to the east of the mountain. This + battery, with a little military skill, might be made to protect + every access to the town, not protected by the battery before + mentioned, which is situated about half way up the western + declivity of the mountain, and which commands or secures the fonte, + or spring, against an attack from any hostile force. +67 + + LETTER IV. + + _Command of the Commerce of Sudan._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, May 5, 1792. + + If Great Britain were to purchase the port of Santa Cruz of the + emperor, for a certain annual stipend, we should be enabled to + command the whole commerce of Sudan, at the expense of Tunis, + Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt; not at the expense of Marocco, because + an equivalent, or what the emperor would consider as such, would be + given in exchange for it; and we should then supply all those + regions with merchandise, at the first and second hand, which they + now receive through four, five, and six. We should thus be enabled + to undersell our Moorish competitors, and thus draw to our + commercial depot, all the gold-dust, gold-bars, and wrought-gold, + gum-sudan, (commonly called in England, Turkey gum-arabic), ostrich + feathers, and other articles the produce of Sudan; besides the + produce of Suse, viz. gum-barbary, sandrac, euphorbium, and + ammoniac, almonds, olive oil, wine, &c., together with the richest + fruits of every kind. These we should take in barter for our + manufactures. +68 + The road of Santa Cruz is very safe, and the best in the empire of + Marocco; it is defended from the fury of the tremendous gales that + visit this coast in December and January, and which invariably blow + from the south, by a projection of land that extends gradually from + the river Suse to cape Noon, very far westward into the ocean. + During my residence of several years at this summit of Atlas, not + one ship was wrecked or lost; there is plenty of water, and good + anchorage for ships of the line. + + A thousand European troops, directed by a vigilant and experienced + captain, might take the place by a _coup de main_; and the natives, + (after a proper explanation and assurance that trade was the object + of the capture,) would probably become allies of the captors, and + would supply in abundance all kind of provisions. They esteem the + English, and denominate them their brothers.[98] They sorely regret + the loss of trade occasioned by the emperor's restrictions, and + would gladly promote the cultivation of commerce if they had an + opportunity. They have been from time immemorial a trading + generation. + + [Footnote 98: _N'henna l'Ingleez Khowan_, they say, "we and + the English are brothers."] +69 + + LETTER V. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + My dear sir, + + I have this moment received your favour, dated yesterday, and am + extremely sorry I had not the pleasure of seeing you before your + departure. We might have taken a farewell dinner together. You will + most highly oblige me by communicating to me all the intelligence + you can collect concerning the interior of Africa, more especially + of Timbuctoo; its trade, government, geographical situation, and + the manners and customs of its inhabitants. If you could send me + too, any of its products or manufactures, which may appear to you + curious or interesting, or may serve to shew the state of knowledge + and civilisation in the country, and the progress they may have + made in the arts, in manufactures or commerce, you will confer upon + me a singular favour; the expense of which I will readily repay, + and which I shall be happy to return whenever I can be of use to + you. If ever this region of Africa, which excites so strongly our + curiosity, should be laid open to us, you are, of all the men with + whom I am acquainted, the best qualified, and the most likely to + lead the way to this important discovery. I request you to favour +70 me with your correspondence; let me hear from you as frequently as + possible, without ceremony, and as one who wishes to be considered + as an old friend. When peace returns, I shall certainly take my + station in Senegambia[99], where we may then be fellow-labourers in + the same vineyard. There is no news yet of Park; perhaps you would + like to know how he proceeds; and as I expect to hear of him by the + return of my ship, I will inform you, if you wish it; and, in + short, will keep up a regular correspondence on my part, if you + will do the same on your's. Pray, in what ship do you go? Perhaps, + if you would give me encouragement, I might venture into a little + commercial speculation to Santa Cruz. I heartily wish you a + pleasant voyage, health, and success; and am, with great regard, + + My dear Sir, + + Very truly your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + August 12,1796. + + [Footnote 99: Mr. James Willis had the appointment of consul at + Senegambia, and was then waiting an opportunity of proceeding + thither.] +71 + + LETTER VI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + My dear sir, + + I duly received your letter from Gibraltar, and have made known to + Government the expediency of sending a person to Marocco, to oppose + the influence of the French and Spaniards; but I cannot yet say + with certainty whether the measure will be adopted or not; if it + should, you may rely upon my attention to your interest. I have + given your name to the secretary of state, and have spoken of you + with that distinction, which I think, without any flattery, your + qualifications justly deserve. + + Peace still appears to be at a great distance, since the late + negociations; yet, as nothing is so uncertain as an event of this + kind, it may come upon us, (as the last peace did) like a thief in + the night, when we least expect it. You will have, I have no doubt, + frequent opportunities of procuring information concerning + Timbuctoo, and other places in the interior of Africa. Your + knowledge of the language, customs, and commerce of that continent, + give you advantages which few possess upon this ground; and I + assure you, every kind of information will be greedily received +72 here, concerning those regions; especially that which relates to + their commerce, civilisation, customs, geography, and language. + + I request as a favour that you would write me as often as possible; + exclusive of the interest I take in all that relates to the + politics and commerce of Africa, (particularly of the interior,) to + hear of your own individual welfare, will give me the sincerest + pleasure. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + + Your's very sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. + + No. 67. Harley-street, London, 2d February, 1796. + + We have no letters from Mr. Park, since he left the river Gambia; + but we have heard from others, that he had proceeded in safety + above two-thirds of the journey. We expect soon to hear of his + return. If he succeeds, his fame and fortune will be worthy of + envy. +73 + + LETTER VII. + + _Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles the Customs' Duties of + Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abd El Melk, with the Garrison and + Merchants of Santa Crux, ordered to go to the Court at + Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the + Country and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through + which the Author passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse + from Marocco, originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of + Atlas.--Extensive Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait + Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at + Marocco, and Audience with the Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at + Marocco.--Prince Abd El Melk's magnificent Apparel, reprobated by + the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz, shut to the Commerce of + Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Mogodor.--The Prince banished + to the _Bled Shereef_ or Country of Princes, viz., Tafilelt, of the + Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the Country. + --Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity of + the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of + Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (Attar + being the Word signifying a Distillation.)--State of Oister Shells, + on the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and + Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's + Reception on the Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or + Sahara of Mogodor._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Santa Cruz, March 15, 1797. + + When the emperor Soliman proceeded from Fas with a numerous army to +74 the south, he doubled the export and import duties at Mogodor, + viz., from six to twelve per cent., payable in kind. Those of Santa + Cruz remained as before, but so soon as his imperial majesty + reached Marocco, he sent orders for the prince Abd El Melk, who is + his nephew and governor of Santa Cruz, with the garrison, together + with the merchants, to proceed to Marocco; accordingly we all + departed, the prince having first engaged a revered (fakeer) saint + to accompany the army across the Atlas mountains, the fastnesses of + which it appeared no army would be permitted to pass, without the + protection of this fakeer. We departed about noon, and passed + through the plains of the Arab province of Howara[100], a very fine + country; we pitched our tents at sunset, near a sanctuary, where we + had all kinds of provisions sent to us, in great abundance: we + continued our journey the following morning through the plains, and + about the middle of the day we reached the foot of Atlas. + + This country abounds in extensive plantations of olives, almonds, + and gum trees; some plants of the (_fashook_) gum ammoniac are here + discovered. Vines producing purple grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour: (_dergmuse_) the Euphorbium plant is discovered + in rocky parts of the mountains; and great abundance of worm-seed +75 and stick-liquorice.[101] The indigo plant (_Enneel_) is found + here; as are also pomegranates, of a large size and a most + exquisitely sweet flavour, and oranges. Ascending the Atlas, after + five hours' ride, we reached a table-land, and pitched our tents + near a sanctuary. The temperature of the air is cooler here, and + the trees are of a different character; apples, pears, cherries, + walnuts, apricots, peaches, plums, and rhododendrums, were the + produce of this region. The next morning at five o'clock, the army + struck their tents, and after ascending seven hours more, we met + with another change in vegetation. Leguminous plants began to + appear; pines of an immense size, ferns, _the belute_, a species of + oak, the acorn of which is used as food, and is preferred to the + Spanish chesnut; elms, mountain-ash, _seedra_ and _snobar_, the two + latter being a species of the juniper. After this we passed through + a fine campaign country of four hours' ride: we were informed that + this country was very populous; but our fakeer and guide avoided + the habitations of men. We now began again to ascend these + magnificent and truly romantic mountains, and in two hours + approached partial coverings of snow. Vegetation here diminishes, + and nothing is now seen but firs, whose tops appear above the snow; + the cold is here intense; and it is remarkable, that, the pullets' + eggs that we procured in the campaign country just described, were + nearly twice the size of those of Europe. Proceeding two hours +76 further, we came to a narrow pass, on the east side of which was an + inaccessible mountain, almost perpendicular, and entirely covered + with snow; and on the west, a tremendous precipice, of several + thousand feet in depth, as if the mountain had been split in two, + or rent asunder by an earthquake: the path is not more than a foot + wide, over a solid rock of granite. Here the whole army dismounted, + and many prostrated in prayer, invoking the Almighty to enable them + to pass in safety; but, however, notwithstanding all possible + precaution, two mules missed their footing, and were precipitated + with their burdens into the yawning abyss. There is no other pass + but this, and that of Belawin, which is equally dangerous for an + army; so that the district of Suse, which was formerly a kingdom, + might be defended by a few men, against an invading army from + Marocco of several thousands, by taking a judicious position at the + southern extremity of this narrow path and tremendous precipice, + which is but a few yards in length. Proceeding northward through, + this defile, we continued our journey seven hours, (gradually + descending towards the plains of Fruga, a town of considerable + extent, distant about fifteen miles from the mountains.) Proceeding + two hours further, making together nine hours' journey, the army + pitched their tents, and we encamped on another table-land, on the + northern declivity of Atlas, at the entrance of an immense + plantation of olives, about a mile west of a village, called Ait +77 Musie, a most luxuriant and picturesque country. The village of Ait + Musie contains many Jews, whose external is truly miserable; but + this appearance of poverty is merely political, for they are a + trading and rich people, for such a patriarchal country. The olive + plantations at this place, and in many other parts of this country, + do honour to the agricultural propensity of the emperor Muley + Ismael, who planted them. They cover about six square miles of + ground; the trees are planted in right lines, at a proper distance; + the plantation is interspersed with openings, or squares, to let in + the air. These openings are about a square acre in extent. + + [Footnote 100: migration from this tribe attacked and took the + city of Assouan, in Egypt, some years ago. Vide Burckhardt's + Travels in Nubia.] + + [Footnote 101: This root abounds all over Suse, and is called + by the natives _Ark Suse, i.e._ the foot of Suse: the worm-seed + is called sheh.] + + In travelling through the various provinces of South and West + Barbary, these extensive plantations of olives are frequently met + with, and particularly throughout Suse. It appeared that they were + all planted by the emperor Muley Ismael, whose indefatigable + industry was proverbial. Wherever that warrior (who was always in + the field) encamped, he never failed to employ his army in some + active and useful operation, to keep them from being devoured by + the worm of indolence, as he expressed it. Accordingly wherever he + encamped, we meet with these extensive plantations of olive trees, + planted by his troops, which are not only a great ornament to the + country, but produce abundance of fine oil. The olive plantations + at Ras El Wed, near Terodant in Suse, are so extensive, that one +78 may travel from the rising to the setting sun under their shade, + without being exposed to the rays of the effulgent African sun. + + We remained encamped at Ait Musie[102] three days, amusing + ourselves by hawking with the prince's falconer, and hunting the + antelope. Early in the morning of the fourth day, we descended the + declivity of the Atlas, and travelling eight hours, we reached the + populous town of Fruga, situated in the same extensive plain + wherein the city of Marocco stands. From this village to Marocco, a + day's journey, the country is one continued corn-field, producing + most abundant crops of wheat and barley, the grain of which is of + an extraordinary fine quality, and nearly twice the size of the + wheat produced at the Cape of Good Hope. + + [Footnote 102: Here the prince sent couriers to the emperor, to + announce his approach.] + + On our approach to the metropolis, the emperor sent the princes + that were at Marocco to welcome the prince Abd El Melk. They were + accompanied by 100 cavalry, who saluted our prince with the Moorish + compliment of running full gallop and firing their muskets. These + princes, who were relations of Abd El Melk, son of Abd Salam, shook + hands with him respectively, and then kissed their own. This is the + salutation when friends of equal rank meet. We entered the city of + Marocco at the _Beb El Mushoir_, which is the gate situated near + the palace and place of audience, towards the Atlas mountains. The +79 next day I had an audience of the emperor, who received me in (the + _Jenan En neel_) the garden of the Nile, a small garden adjoining + the palace, containing all the fruits and plants from the Nile[103] + of Egypt. The (_worde fillelly_) Tafilelt-rose grows in great + luxuriance in this garden, resembling that of China; the odour is + very grateful and strong, perfuming the air to a considerable + distance. This is the rose, from the leaves of which the celebrated + (_attar el worde_) _i.e._ distillation of roses is made, vulgarly + called in Europe, _otto_ of roses. + + [Footnote 103: This orthography, _Nile_, has been imported from + France; with the French it is pronounced as we pronounce Neel; + and this is the intelligible pronunciation in Africa.] + + The emperor declared the port of Santa Cruz to be shut; and that no + European merchant of any nation should continue there. He gave me + my choice, either to quit the country, or establish a house at + Mogodor. I entreated a short time to consider which I should + choose, which was readily granted. + + The prince Abd El Melk was magnificent in his apparel, the Emperor + dressed very plain; these were two incompatible propensities, the + latter had probably heard of the prince's extravagance in this + respect, and chose to moralise with him by comparing his own + parsimonious and plain apparel to _his_ costly attire; and + insinuating that the iron buckle to his belt answered every purpose + of a gold one, reprimanded the prince for the extravagance and + vanity of his wardrobe, and acquainted his Highness that the port +80 of Santa Cruz should no longer remain open to European commerce. + The prince remained some days after this notification at Maroco; an + annual stipend was allowed him and he was sent to (the _Bled + Shereef, i.e._ the country of princes, viz.) Tafilelt, and had + apartments allotted him in the Imperial Palace at that place, which + is very magnificent and extensive. It is built of marble collected + for the most part from the _Kaser Farawan_ or ruins of Pharaoh, an + ancient city now in ruins, contiguous to the sanctuary of Muley + Dris Zerone, east of the city of Mequinas, on the western declivity + of the Atlas; this marble was transported across the mountains of + Atlas on camels, a distance of fifteen journies to Tafilelt. The + inhabitants of this part of Bled Eljereed live principally on + dates, which abound so in this country that the fruit of one + plantation is commonly sold for 1000 dollars, producing 1500 camel + load of dates, or 4500 quintals; there are thirty-five species of + this rich fruit, of which the _butube_ is unquestionably the best + and the most wholesome; it is rich, of a fine flavour, and sweet as + honey: the _buscr_ is also good; but so dry and full of saccharine + matter that it resembles a lump of sugar. Undoubtedly if this + country were in the hands of Europeans they would extract sugar, + perhaps as much as 150 lb. from a camel load of dates weighing 300 + lb. The _adamoh_ is the date that is imported to this country; it + is the best for keeping, but at Tafilelt they use it only for the + cattle, considering it an unwholesome kind and heavy of digestion. +81 The country from the eastern declivity of Atlas to Tafilelt, and to + the eastward of Tafilelt, even unto Seginmessa is one continued + barren plain of a brown sandy soil impregnated with salt, so that + if you take up the earth it has a salt flavour; the surface also + has the appearance of salt, and if you dig a foot deep, a brackish + water ooses up. On the approach, to within a day's journey of + Tafilelt, however, the country is covered with the most magnificent + plantations and extensive forests of the lofty date, exhibiting the + most elegant and picturesque appearance that nature, on a plain + surface, can present to the admiring eye. In these forests there is + no underwood, so that a horseman may gallop through them without + impediment. Wheat is cultivated near the river, and honey is + produced of an exquisite quality. The faith and honour of the + (filelly) inhabitants of Tafilelt is proverbial; a robbery has not + been known within the memory of man; they use neither locks nor + keys, having no need of either! + + Having had my audience of leave of the Emperor, I prepared to + proceed to Mogodor, but before I describe the country through which + we passed thither, it may not perhaps be uninteresting to give some + account of the Imperial gardens at Marocco, which are three, the + _Jenan Erdoua_, the _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan En. neel_: the + last is confined to plants brought from the Egyptian Nile. The + _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan Erdoua_, contain oranges, citrons, +82 vines, figs, pomegranates, water and musk melons, all of exquisite + flavour. The orange and fig trees are here as large as a middling + sized English oak. Roses are so abundant at Marocco that they grow + every where, and have a most powerful perfume, insomuch that one + rose scents a large room; all other flowers are in abundance, and + many that are nursed with care in English hot-houses are seen in + the Marocco plains growing spontaneously. These gardens, as well as + others throughout the country, are watered by the Persian or + Arabian wheel, with pitchers fixed to it, which discharge the water + into a trough or tank; as the pitchers rise and turn over their + contents into this tank, the water is communicated to the garden + and inundates the plants. Departing from Marocco to Mogodor, the + first day's journey is through the plains of Sheshawa, a fine + campaign country abounding in corn; the mountains of Sheshawa, + which are higher than any in Great Britain, have strata of oyster + and other shells at the top of them. We encamped at the foot of + these mountains; I had the curiosity to examine the depth of these + strata of shells, and found them several feet deep, and extending + all the way down the mountains. The rivers Sheshawa and Wed Elfees + water these plains. The next day's journey brought us to a + sanctuary, where we met very good entertainment, that is, such as + the country affords, plenty of good provisions and hospitable + treatment. +83 + The next evening we encamped at a place called _Dar El Hage + Croomb_, a very picturesque situation, where we were hospitably + entertained; the Sheik coming to drink tea with me, related the + history of his ancestors and traced his descent through many + generations of warriors, whose dextrous management of the lance was + the burden of the story. The next day, after travelling about six + hours, we arrived at the extremity of the productive country, and + entered _El Grored_, or the desert of sandy hills, which divide the + rocky peninsula of Mogodor, from the cultivated land; this Sahara + consists of loose sand-hills very fatiguing to the horses, and + although not more than three miles in width, we were an hour and a + half in crossing them, before we entered the gate of Mogodor. +84 + + LETTER VIII. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-Street, London, + + My Dear Sir, 12th December, 1797. + + I thank you warmly for your intelligence concerning the interior of + Africa, and beg you will continue to favour me with all the + information you can collect upon this subject. Mr. Park has been + almost as far as Jinnie, but did not reach Timbuctoo; he is now on + his way to England, in an American ship, via America. We are + anxious for his arrival, which may be expected in the course of the + present month; and all the Africani are extremely curious to hear + the detail of his most interesting journey, which we hope will + produce some authentic knowledge, of a considerable part of those + regions, that have hitherto baffled all the ardour and energy of + European enquiry, though they have always excited the curiosity of + the most eminent and enlightened men, both in past and present + times. + + I thank you also for the commercial intelligence you have sent me. + + Do you know whether the emperor of Marocco has any collection of + books? If he has, probably some ancient books, of great value, + might be found among them. +85 + I should consider it as a very great obligation if you could + procure, and send me any book or manuscript in the character and + language of Timbuctoo. We are informed that, besides the Arabic, + they have a character of their own, perfectly different. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Sincerely your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + + _Extract of a Letter to Mr. Jackson, from His Excellency J.M. + Matra, British Envoy to Marocco, &c._ + + Tangier, November 8, 1797. + + I have not yet received any answer from Sir Joseph Banks to the + letter from you, which I sent to him. Should you be able to obtain + any information from Timbuctoo[104], or of the interior of this + country, which would gratify one's curiosity, I will be very + thankful for a slice of it. + + I am ever, dear Jackson, + Most faithfully your's, + JAMES M. MATRA. + + [Footnote 104: All _my information_ respecting Timbuctoo, will + be found in Jackson's Account of Marocco, Chapter XIII.] +86 + + LETTER IX. + + _Custom of visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco.--Journey + of the Merchants thither on that occasion.--No one enters the + imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode of travelling.--The + Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience of the + Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of + Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at + Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, east + and south of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of + eating.--Trades or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of + the Sultan.--Present received from the Sultan_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Mogodor, 1788. + + The emperor having departed from Mequinas where he passed the + winter, to Marocco, his summer residence, it becomes an incumbent + duty for all loyal subjects, to pay their respects to him. All the + bashaws of provinces, south of the river Morbeya, which divides the + northern part of his dominions from the southern, as well as all + the alkaids or governors of towns and districts under the authority + of the bashaws of the provinces, are expected to show their + loyalty, by obtaining permission to present themselves to the + imperial presence; when they give an account of the state of the +87 district which they respectively govern. The bashaw of each + province communicates with the emperor, and determines which of the + alkaids[105] shall have the honour of presenting themselves. On + these occasions, that is, when the emperor comes to Marocco, it is + customary for the merchants of Mogodor to perform the journey to + the metropolis[106] of the south, and to present his imperial + majesty with a present; indeed, it is not the etiquette of this + court for any one to demand an audience (which the lowest subject + in the realm may claim) without being prepared to present + something; so that the poor may have an audience by presenting half + a dozen eggs, or any similar trifle, such as some fruit or flowers; + but no one enters the imperial presence (_khawie_, as they term it, + _i. e._) empty-handed. The routine is this: The European merchants, + together with the house of Guedalla and Co., who are native Jews, + are called _el commercio;_ the commercio, therefore, solicit the + honour of presenting themselves to the emperor, to offer their + congratulations on his arrival; this is acceded to, and the + minister, who is denominated the _talb cadus_, a term designating a + man who disperses orders and communications to every one, writes a +88 letter to the commercio, expressive of the emperor's disposition to + see them, and requesting them to repair to his presence: a guard is + given by the alkaid of Mogodor, and a present _ought_ to be + selected of such articles as are not to be bought at the markets of + the country. A present consisting of such articles, previously + ordered from Europe, and judiciously selected, is better calculated + to gratify the emperor, than ten times the value injudiciously + collected. The merchants accordingly prepared themselves to proceed + to Marocco; some rode mules, some horses, for there are no + carriages in this country; and every individual had his tent and + servants with him. We travelled three days through a fine country, + and reached the city of Marocco the fourth day, in the afternoon, + travelling eight hours each day, at the rate of four miles an hour. + On our approach to the city, we sent an express to the _talb + cadus_, who, by the imperial order, appropriated the emperor's + garden, _jinnen el afia_, for our reception, the pavilion in which + was appropriated to our service; we preferred, however, in this + delightful climate, sleeping in our tents, which we were permitted + to pitch in this beautiful garden. We dined in the _coba_, or + pavilion. The (_talb cadus_) minister paid us a visit, to say that + the emperor requested we would take the following day to rest from + our journey, and at eight o'clock on the following morning, he + would receive us; the present was accordingly prepared, which was +89 carried by four-and-twenty men; every article (the bulky ones + excepted) being enveloped in a Barcelona silk handkerchief. The + emperor was in the (_m'ushoir_) place of audience, on that side of + the city which faces the mountains of Atlas. At our presentation we + did not prostrate ourselves, but bowed, in the European manner; the + emperor said, bono el commercio, a Spanish phrase which he uses in + interviews with Europeans, and which is equivalent to his saying, + you are welcome, merchants. To this we replied, _Allah iberk amer + seedi_, God bless the life of my master. The emperor asked if we + were recovered from the fatigue of our journey, and was quite + affable; he then said, communicate with the effendi[107], and + whatever you want shall be granted to you; for I am disposed to + encourage and (_amel el k'here_) to do good to my merchants. The + master of the audience then came to us, and signified that we might + depart; we made our obeisance, and returned to our habitation. This + was the audience of introduction, which is always short; the second + audience is for business; and the third is the audience of + departure. We remained encamped in the imperial garden a fortnight + before we had another audience; in the mean time we amused + ourselves in riding about the country, and in visiting some of the +90 most respectable inhabitants, among whom was the _cadus_, who has a + noble mansion, replete with every convenience, and a garden in the + centre of it. The rooms of this house were long and narrow, with a + pair of high doors in the centre of the room, through which alone + the light is admitted; the floors were paved with small glazed + tiles, about two inches square, very neatly fitted, and of + different colours; the walls were the same, a mode of building + which in this warm climate imparts a grateful coolness; the + ceilings are painted in the Araberque style, with brilliant + colours. The roofs are of terras, and flat, having an insensible + declivity, just sufficient to give the rain that falls a course, + which falling into the pipes, is received in the (_mitfere_) a + subterraneous cistern, which supplies the family with water the + whole year, till the rainy season returns again. + + [Footnote 105: In each province, or bashawick, there are + several alkaids or governors of districts.] + + [Footnote 106: The city of Fas is the metropolis of the north, + as Marocco is of the south. Mequinas is the court town of the + north, and resembles the Hague, where few reside but such as + are employed in the service of the crown.] + + [Footnote 107: This word was used by the seed, or emperor, in + the presumption that it is understood by Europeans; but _cadus_ + is the Arabic term.] + + There is near to the walls of Marocco, about the north-west point, + a village, called (_Deshira el Jeddam_) i.e. the Village of Lepers. + I had a curiosity to visit this village; but I was told that any + other excursion would be preferable; that the Lepers were totally + excluded from the rest of mankind; and that, although none of them + would dare to approach us, yet the excursion would be not only + unsatisfactory but disgusting. I was, however, determined to go; I + mounted my horse, and took two horse-guards with me, and my own + servant. We rode through the Lepers' town; the inhabitants +91 collected at the doors of their habitations, but did not approach + us; they, _for the most part_, showed no external disfiguration, + but were generally sallow; some of the young women were very + handsome; they have, however, a paucity of eyebrow, which, it must + be allowed, is somewhat incompatible with a beauty; some few had no + eyebrows at all, which completely destroyed the effect of their + dark animated eyes. They are obliged to wear a large straw hat, + with a brim about nine inches wide; this is their _badge of + separation_, a token of division between the clean and unclean, + which when seen in the country, or on the roads, prevents any one + from having personal contact with them. They are allowed to beg, + and accordingly are seen by the side of the roads, with their straw + hat badge, and a wooden bowl before them, to receive the charity of + passengers, exclaiming (_attanie m'ta Allah_) "bestow on me the + property of God;" (_kulshie m'ta Allah_) "all belongs to God!" + reminding the passenger that he is a steward of, and accountable + for the appropriation of his property; that he derives his property + from the bounty and favour of God. When any one gives them money, + they pronounce a blessing on him; as (_Allah e zeed kherik_) "may + God increase your good," &c. The province of Haha abounds in + lepers; and it is said that the Arganic[108] oil, which, is much + used in food throughout this picturesque province, promotes this + loathsome disease! + + [Footnote 108: This oil, which is excellent, and generally used + for frying fish, should be thus prepared, according to the + learned Doctor Barata, who was pensioned physician to the + _Commercio_ of Mogodor, by which preparation it becomes + perfectly wholesome, and deprived of any leprous or other bad + quality: Take a quart of Argan oil, and put in it a large onion + cut in slices; when it boils add a piece of crumb of bread, + equal in size to an onion, then let it boil a few minutes more, + take it off, let it cool, and strain the oil through a sieve, + and bottle it for daily use.] + +92 + The chain of Atlas, east of Marocco, continually covered with snow, + gives a pleasant coolness to the air of the city, in the summer + season, particularly in the morning and evening; the coolness is + generally said, however, to produce ophthalmia.[109] These + mountains are immensely high, and their magnitude makes them appear + not more than five miles from the city. It is, however, a day's + journey to the foot of them, after which the ascent is so gradual, + that it takes two days more to reach the snow. This part of the + chain of Atlas, east of the city of Marocco, is seen at sea, twenty + miles west of Mogodor, which latter place is about 120 miles from +93 Marocco; it is 35 miles from the city of Marocco to the foot of + Atlas; and it is two days' journey from the foot of Atlas to the + snow, which constantly covers the summit of these immense + mountains. They are thus seen at a distance of 245 miles: + + 20 miles from land at sea. + 120 do. Mogodor to Marocco. + 35 do. Marocco to the foot of + the mountains. + 70 do. the foot of Atlas to the snow. + --- + Seen at 245 miles distance. + --- + + [Footnote 109: Ophthalmic disorders prevail among the Jews of + Marocco, but are seldom seen among the Moors. The Jews live in + great filth at Marocco; the dung-hills and ruins are in some + places as high as the houses. The Muhamedan doctrine does not + allow the Moors to neglect personal cleanliness, which, among + these people, is a cardinal virtue; and this, I presume, is the + cause of their being, in a great measure, exempt from + ophthalmia, whereas the Jews, on the contrary, are generally + affected with it.] + + In this calculation, the direct distance in the ascent of the + mountain, is less than the travelling distance; but without taking + notice of the distance from the border of the snow to the summit of + this lofty mountain, which is said to be another day's journey, the + one may balance the other: we may therefore calculate 70 miles as + the direct longitudinal distance, although I am persuaded it is + much more from the foot to the summit of that part of the Atlas + which is visible at sea. + + H.T. Colebrooke, Esq., in a paper inserted in the Asiatic + Transactions, vol. xii. asserts, that it requires an elevation of + 28,000 feet, for an object to be visible at the distance of 200 +94 geographical miles; now 245 English miles are equal to 211-1/2 + geographical miles; consequently, if Mr. Colebrooke be correct, the + summit of Atlas, east of Marocco and Dimenet, which is seen at a + distance of 211-1/2 geographical miles, must be 29,610 feet high, + or above five miles and a half. + + Again, the chain of Atlas in Lower Suse, which lies east of Elala, + and which is constantly covered with snow, is situated three days' + journey, horse travelling, east-south-east from Elala, in Lower + Suse; Elala is three days' journey from Santa Cruz, horse + travelling, making together 180 miles: add for distance from the + foot of the Elala mountains to the snow, 60 miles, and the Atlas in + Lower Suse will be seen at the distance of 240 miles, or 207 + geographical miles. + + Thus, from Santa Cruz to the } + foot of the Atlas mountains, in the} 180 miles. + district of Elala, in Lower Suse } + + Add for distance from the foot } + of the Elala mountains to the } 60 + snow } + --- + So that the Atlas in Lower Suse, } + being seen at a distance of } 240 + + Or 207 geographical miles, must have an altitude of 28,980 feet. + + On the north side of the city of Marocco is a gate called _Beb El + Khummes_, and near it is held, every Thursday, a market called soke + _El Khummes_; at which immense quantities of horses, camels, mules, + asses, oxen, sheep, goats, wheat and barley are sold; oils, gums, +95 almonds, dates, raisins, figs, bees' wax, honey, skins, &c. &c. + &c.; also, slaves, male and female. Such a horse as would cost in + London 50_l._, sells here for 50 dollars; a good mule sells for the + same, viz. 50 dollars; a bull, 12 dollars; a cow, 15 dollars; + sheep, a dollar and a half, each; a goat, a dollar. Very fine large + grained wheat, which increases one-fifth in the grinding, sells at + one dollar per saa, or about half a dollar per Winchester bushel. + The slaves are conducted through the market by the auctioneer + (_delel_), who exclaims, occasionally, (_khumseen reeal aal + zeeada_, i.e.) "50 dollars on the increase," till he finds no one + will advance; when he goes to the owner and declares the price + offered; the owner then decides if he will sell or not; if he + sells, the money is paid immediately, but if not, he takes his + slave away with him, and tries him again the next market-day, or + waits in expectation that this wretched article of trade will rise + in value. + + A stranger passing through Marocco would consider it an irregular + miserable town; but the despotic nature of the government induces + every individual to secrete or conceal his opulence; so that the + houses of the gentry are surrounded with a shabby wall, often + broken or out of repair, at a considerable distance from the + dwelling house, which does not appear, or is invisible to the + passenger. Some of these houses are very handsome, and are + furnished with couches, circular cushions to sit on, and other +96 furniture, in all the luxury of the East. When a visitor or a guest + enters one of these houses, slaves come in with perfumes burning, + in compliment to the visitor. Coffee and tea are then presented in + small cups, having an outer cup to hold that which contains the + liquor, instead of a saucer; the sugar being first put into the + pot. The coffee or tea being poured out, already sweetened with + sugar, a negro boy generally takes his station in one corner of a + spacious room, pours out the liquor, and sends it to the guests by + another boy. The tea table is a round stand, about twelve inches + from the ground, at which the tea boy sits down on a leather + cushion, cross legged. + + When dinner is served, the food is in a large dish or bowl, on a + round stand, similar to that above described; three, four, or more + sit round it; a servant comes to the company with a ewer and + napkin; each person wash their right hand, and eat with their + fingers; in the higher circles, rose-water is used instead of + plain; if soup is served, they eat it with wooden spoons; in this + respect the emperor himself sets them the example, who reprobates + the use of the precious metals with food. + + When the Moors sit down to eat; high and low, rich and poor, (for I + have partaken of food with all ranks, from the prince to the + plebeian,) they invariably invoke God's blessing, previous to the + repast, and offer thanks at the conclusion. Their first grace is, + invariable, short, and comprehensive; _bis'm illah_, "In the name +97 of God." The after grace is, _El Ham'd littah_, "Praise be to + God." + + A very excellent dish is generally eaten in this country, called + _cuscasoe_; it is made with flour, granulated into particles the + size of a partridge shot, which is, put over a steamer, till the + steam has sufficiently passed through it, so as to produce the + effect of boiling; it is then taken off, broken, and returned to + steam a second time; in the meantime, a chicken or some meat is + boiling in the saucepan, under the steamer, with onions, turnips, + and other vegetables; when the _cuscasoe_ has been steamed a second + time, it is taken off, coloured with saffron, and mixed with some + butter, salt, and pepper, and piled up in a large round bowl or + dish, garnished with the chicken or meat and vegetables. This is a + very nutritious, wholesome, and palatable dish, when well cooked. + It is in high estimation with the Arabs, Moors, Brebers, Shelluhs, + and Negroes. When they sit down to eat, each person puts his + fingers into the dish before him; and in respectable society, it is + remarkable how dextrously they jerk the food into their mouths, + which never come into contact with their hands; so that this mode + of eating is scarcely objectionable, certainly not obnoxious, as + some travellers have represented it; but who probably had + associated with the lower ranks of society, who, indeed, are not + particular in these observances. +98 + All kind of trades are carried on at Marocco: jewellers, + goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, tanners, &c. &c.; but that + which is the most honourable, is a shoe-maker, because Muhamed + himself was one. At Mequinas they make excellent shoes, of leather + impervious to water, for 1_s._ 8_d._ per pair. + + The time now approached for our audience of business, and we had + represented to the _Talb Cadus_, that the export duties on some + articles were too heavy, viz. on wax, almonds, and olive oil; also + on certain imports, viz. iron, steel, and Buenos Ayres hides; but + no diminution was obtained, except in the duty of bees' wax. The + emperor gave hopes of an exportation of grain, and desired us to + write to Europe for ships to come and load wheat, barley, Indian + corn, caravances, beans, lentils, and millet. We were favourably + received; the emperor asked several questions respecting Europe, + and informed us we should return to Mogodor in a few days. Three + days after this audience we were ordered to meet the emperor in the + _Jenan En neel_, where we had our audience of leave, and the + emperor gave each of us a fine horse, chosen by ourselves out of + his own stable; and we took our leave and departed for Mogodor the + following evening. We slept encamped under the magnificent and + lofty date trees, in the neighbourhood of the city, the first + night. +99 + + LETTER X. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-street, London, + + My dear Sir, September 10, 1798. + + I write to acknowledge the receipt of your favour. I know no man + better qualified than yourself for the station of an African + consul; and really think, that to assist you in obtaining such a + post, is to render service to my country, as well as to yourself. + Your information concerning the interior of Africa, and especially + concerning Timbuctoo, appears to me to be more accurate, authentic, + and extensive than that of any other person I have met with; + considerably more so than that of any of the correspondents of the + African association. Mr. Park, of whose return you are informed, + has brought home no addition to the stock of our knowledge of that + important place; though I think his geographical communications are + highly valuable, particularly as they regard the river and course, + &c. of the Niger. This celebrated river will, I think, in time be + the channel of communication between Europe and the interior of + Africa. It seems to penetrate into that continent, in its widest + and most interesting part; if it should be navigable through its + entire course, we might hereafter make it the instrument of the + most important discoveries, and the channel of the most valuable +100 commerce. I shall be much obliged to you for information concerning + this river, particularly as to its termination. I suspect it + discharges itself into some interior sea or vast lake, like the + Caspian; unless, like the Burrampooter, after various and extensive + windings, it may return towards its source, and fall into the + Atlantic. + + You will have heard of the landing of a French army in Egypt, under + Buonaparte; the French are enterprising, and if they should + penetrate from the eastward, while we advance from the west, the + interior of the African continent may at length be laid open. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Your's sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. +101 + + LETTER XI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + June 10.1800. + My dear Sir, + + I did not receive, till the 22d November, your favour, dated 1st + September last, for which I beg you to receive my best thanks. I + have transmitted an extract of it to Lord Moira, Sir Joseph Banks, + and to a friend of mine, who is a member of parliament, and has + great influence with his majesty's ministers; in order that he may + lay it before the secretary of state, in such a manner as to draw + his attention to it in the most impressive and effectual manner; + but I much fear that the pressure of the war, and its consequent + effects; the arrangements of finance, &c. will preclude their + immediate support to objects which they consider as of very + subordinate importance. The time is certainly highly favourable for + the cultivation of the friendship of the emperor, and of other + Muhamedan sovereigns; now that the British arms have preserved the + principal empire of the Moslems, by the victory at Aboukir, and the + defense of Acre; in consequence of which, Egypt has been recovered, + and one of the sacred gates of the Caaba again opened to the +102 Mussulmen. This appears to be an event of the highest consideration + to the Muhamedans of Africa, since it is by Grand Cairo, that the + western pilgrims communicate with Mecca. + + I suppose you have received the narratives, published by Park and + Browne, of their respective journies and discoveries in the + interior of your continent; they have done much, but much more + still remains to be done; and above all, the discovery of Timbuctoo + and its commercial relations. + + There is a captain Wild, now either at Tunis or Algiers, preparing + himself for this journey, (as I am informed,) a man of intrepidity, + judgment, and enterprise; whom Sir Joseph Banks writes me, he hopes + to engage in the employment of the African association. + + I assure you that I consider you, as the only European that + possesses any substantial and interesting information concerning + that part of interior Africa, which we are most solicitous to + investigate; and, therefore, set a high value upon whatever you are + so good as to communicate. I am also of opinion, that your plans + may very probably be adopted by administration, when the return of + peace shall leave their minds at liberty to attend to it. +103 + + LETTER XII. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + 5th May, 1801. + My dear Sir, + + I wrote you at considerable length on the 1st of June last, and + assure you that none of your letters, received prior to that date, + have remained unanswered. I have now to acknowledge the receipt of + your several favours, and beg you to accept my best thanks, for + your very curious and valuable present of the gold ring from + Wangara, which has been shown to several persons of great + distinction, and even to the king himself. _It is universally + considered as a great curiosity_; and I have taken care to make it + known that you are the person to whom I am indebted, for the first + _Wangarian_ jewel that has ever been seen in England. I have also + shown your letter, containing your judicious opinions upon the + course of the Niger[110], and other geographical points, to Sir + Joseph Banks and Major Rennell; and have invariably represented you + to them, and to others, as the person possessing eminently the best + information concerning the interior of Africa; an object which + draws at present the earnest attention, both of the learned and the +104 great, and which our late victories in Egypt, render more + peculiarly interesting. + + [Footnote 110: See Jackson's account of Marocco, last chapter.] + + I think, with you, it is probable there is a communication by water + between Jinnie and Egypt; but I should rather imagine there is some + large lake or Mediterranean sea, like the Caspian, for instance, + into which the Niger may discharge itself from the west, and a + branch of the Nile from the east. This idea seems to reconcile the + opinions of ancient geographers, with those resulting from modern + discoveries. If we should be able to effect the complete conquest + of Egypt, and to retain that kingdom, much light will probably soon + be acquired upon these interesting subjects. +105 + + LETTER XIII. + + _Journey from Mogodor, to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of + Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, to the Ruins of Pharaoh, + and thence through the Amorite Country to L'Araich and + Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as my_ (Tabuk) _Cook, + ana Deeb as my_ (Mle Lukkerzana) _Tent Master.--Exportation of + Wool granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the + Plague.--Arabs, their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations + respecting the River Tansift.--Jerf El Edie, or the Jews' + Pass.--Description of Saffy, and its Port or Road.--Woladia + calculated to make a safe Harbour.--Growth of Tobacco.--Mazagan + described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet Urtemma a dangerous + Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described.--Mausoleum of + the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of Shella, a Roman + Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of Rabat.--Productive Country + about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to Christians.--The + Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait Zimurh, + notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country disturbed + with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City and + its imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely + beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the + Fakeers of the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected + from the English in the Event of an Invasion by + Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of Benediction by the Fakeers at +106 my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of Pharaoh near the + Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.--The Descendants of + the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these People.--Various Tribes + of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar Kabeer.--Its Environs, a + beautiful Country.--Forest of L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of + Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as Imitations of Amber.--Grand + Entry of the British Ambassador into Tangier.--Our Ignorance of + African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces of his + Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Tangier, + 8th August, 1801. + Dear sir, + + My journey to meet His Excellency James M. Matra, the British + ambassador to the Court of Marocco, was undertaken principally to + obtain permission to ship a large quantity of wool which I had in + my possession, the exportation of which had been recently + prohibited. I thought I could not select a more seasonable time + than when our ambassador was at court; accordingly, I started from + Mogodor (the morning after I dispatched two vessels for Europe) on + the 4th June last, at four o'clock, P.M. My journey was first to + Rabat; thence, across the country, to Fas and Mequinas; thence to + the renowned and revered sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, on the + declivity of the mountains of Atlas, east of Mequinas; thence to + _Kassar Farawan_ (the ruins of Pharaoh), and through the warlike +107 province of the Ait Amor, to L'Araich, Arzilla, and to Tangier. + + I took with me two of the finest horses in the country, to ride + alternately. Two mules and three camels carried my baggage, tents, + &c. Muhamed of Diabet, commonly called _Deeb_, I engaged as + tent-master; this is the man that astonished Aly Bey El Abassy, + when he shot the fish in the river, as recorded by that interesting + traveller. I engaged a most excellent fellow as cook, a man who had + performed many journies in a similar capacity with the princes; he + was acquainted with the roads, the country, and the character of + the people; the camel-drivers and muleteers completed our party. + We arrived at Tela at nine o'clock in the evening, being a journey + of five hours. We remained at Tela the whole of the following day, + and started on the 6th June at seven o'clock; arrived, at ten + o'clock, at Akkermute, a town in ruins, in the plains west of + _Jebbel El Heddeed_ (the iron mountains), which was depopulated by + the plague about fifty years since. Passing through the plains of + Akkermute, towards the river Tensift, we saw a party of Arabs + hunting partridges; we did not stop to see this novel sport, but I + was informed that the dogs were directed by the huntsmen to the + spot where the birds settled, which roused them; they then pursued + them again, and after rousing them several times without + intermission, the birds become fatigued and exhausted by continual +108 flying, and the dogs then run them down and seize on them. In six + hours from Akkermute, at four o'clock, P.M., we reached the river + Tensift, which brings its water from the Atlas, east of Marocco, + meandering through the plains and passing about three miles north + of that city. + + We pitched our tents under the walls of the (_Luksebba_) castle, on + the south bank of the river. + + We started the next morning at six o'clock, and travelling through + a fine country, we came to a narrow pass on the declivity of a + lofty mountain called Jerf El Eudie, a most picturesque country, + and arrived at the port of Saffy at eleven o'clock. Saffy has no + harbour, but a road where ships are obliged to put to sea whenever + the south-wind blows; the town was fortified when in possession of + the Portuguese, and is situated in a declivity between two hills, + so that during the rainy season the waters come down so rapidly + that they sometimes overflow the lower apartments of the houses and + commit considerable damage. On the 8th June we started from Saffy + at nine o'clock, and arrived at the sanctuary of Seedi Cuscasoe at + five o'clock, P.M.; and proceeding on, we reached El Woladia at + nine, and pitched our tents. This place might be made a secure + harbour for the whole British navy, by blowing up a rock which + impedes the narrow passage at the entrance of a long and extensive + bay. From hence we started at half-past five o'clock in the + morning; we proceeded northwards along the coast till eleven +109 o'clock, when we reached the beautiful and abundant valley, the + Woolga; travelling on through the country, leaving the sea to the + left, we arrived at six o'clock at the Douar, (an encampment of + Arabs,) called _Woled Aisah, i.e._ "Sons of Jesus," situated in the + productive province of Duquella. The environs of the Douar of Woled + Aisah abound in plantations of tobacco, of a superior quality, + equal to the Havannah. The next morning, viz. on the 10th June, we + struck our tents at six o'clock, and travelling three hours we + arrived, at nine, at the _Jerf el Saffer_ (the Yellow Cliff): three + hours more brought us to Tet, and an hour more to Mazagan, which we + reached at one o'clock. Mazagan is the Portuguese name; the Moorish + name is El Burreja. This is a very strong place, having several + stout bastions; there is a magnificent (_mitfere_) cistern of + water, built by the Portuguese, supported by many pillars of great + strength of the Tuscan order. The water in the neighbourhood of + Mazagan is very salubrious; this country is full of springs. The + inhabitants have a good healthy colour, very different from the + inhabitants of the plains of the province of Duquella, which being + supplied by water from wells only, of from 100 to 200 feet deep, + have a sallow and sickly appearance. It may, in Europe, appear + extraordinary that the quality of water should produce such a + manifest difference in the complexion of the inhabitants, but when + we consider that these people drink no wine, spirits, or malt +110 liquor, the paradox will immediately vanish. After viewing the + mitfere, or cistern, and batteries at Mazagan, we mounted at four + o'clock, and arrived at Azamor at seven o'clock P.M., pitched the + tents in a large spacious fondaque, or caravansera, in the centre + of the town. We were annoyed during the night by thousands of + storks, the cluttering of whose bills would not permit us to sleep. + This town is in the centre of a beautiful country. On the 11th + June, at noon, we pursued our journey, and reached Sancet Urtemma + at eight o'clock P.M. This is a dangerous country, infested with + robbers, who, from the undulating face of the country, have many + modes of escape; we, therefore, retired into a solitary retreat, + and lay on our arms, without sleep, all night. At six o'clock next + morning, being the 12th June, we started, and arrived at Dar el + Beida at twelve. Here I was hospitably entertained by the agents of + the Spanish house of the Cinquo Gremos of Madrid, who were + established here for the purpose of shipping corn to Spain. We left + Dar el Beida, at half-past three, and reached Fedalla at half-past + seven. This is a fine productive country, abounding in grain as + well as Dar el Beida. On the 13th we started at four o'clock, and + reached El Mensoria at seven; stopped and dined, mounted at ten + A.M. and arrived at Rabat at seven o'clock, P.M. after a journey + from Mogodor, of 80-1/2 hours of actual travelling, or 242 English + miles.[111] + + [Footnote 111: Calculated at the rate of three miles an hour, + including stoppages and refreshments.] +111 + Rabat is the largest town on the coast of the empire, it is walled + round; its circumference is about four miles; an aqueduct conveys + abundance of water to the town from a distance of several miles. + The mausoleum of the sultan Muhamed, father to the present sultan + Soliman, is in the town of Rabat, it is a neat building, surrounded + by a colonade; here is a lamp continually burning, and a + _muden_[112], who is a fakeer, is continually proclaiming the + omnipotence of God, and that Muhamed is the prophet. "_La Allah, + ila Allah, wa Muhamed rassul Allah._" There is a very strong + battery towards the sea, at the mouth of the river, which is bomb + proof. The city wall is high, and is strengthened by several + bastions mounting cannon: towards the land, about a mile from + Rabat, there is a spring, reported to have been discovered by the + Romans, and near it is the Roman town of Shella, which none but + musulmen are permitted to enter. In it are said to be the tombs of + two sultans, but most probably of Roman generals. Kettles or pans + of coins are continually found by the people who dig the ground at + this place, and the coins found are Roman. Some European travellers + enhanced the price of these coins so much, by their eagerness to + purchase them, that they offered more than double their intrinsic +112 value, so that the Jews imitated them so well that they deceived + even these antiquaries. There are several mosques in this town, but + that which attracts particularly the notice of travellers, is the + _sma Hassan, i.e._ the tower of Hassan, situated about a mile from + Shella, on the south banks of the river Buregreg, so called from + its being in the province of Beny Hassan, it is an old tower built + in a superior manner by an architect of Grenada, the same that + built the tower at Marocco, called _Jamaa Lifenar_, one at + Timbuctoo, and that at Seville; it is about 200 feet high, + perfectly square, and a person may ride up to the top on horseback, + having a gradual ascent, and seven chambers one above the other: + the cement with which it is made is so hardened that no pickaxe can + destroy it. It was represented to the sultan Muhamed that the + apartments in this tower were the haunts of vice and immorality, + and the sultan ordered the floor or terras, by which visitors + ascend, to be broken; it was found, however, impossible to destroy + it, wherefore the workmen were ordered to desist, and the entrance + was blocked up with loose stones. This tower I ascended with my + friend the Comte de Fourban, nephew to the duke de Crillon, who + conducted the famous siege of Gibraltar, and whose machinations + were so admirably defeated by the immortal governor of that + garrison, General Elliott, Lord Heathfield. The Comte had ruined + his constitution by being immolated in a dungeon in France, during +113 the reign of Robespierre, where he remained during fifteen months, + oftentimes seated on steps in water up to his ankles. The Comte was + a very generous and liberal man, an emigrant French nobleman, + protected by the British consul at the court of Morocco. The + disorder contracted by ill usage and confinement in prison, brought + on a disease which, after applying various remedies to no purpose, + carried him off, and he died at Rabat. The house of the French + consul and those of some other European consuls who formerly + resided here, are conveniently situated on the southern banks of + the river Buregreg, which divides Rabat from Salee. Ships of one + hundred tons, that do not draw much water, may pass the bar and + load close to these houses; but larger vessels must come to anchor + in the offing, and take in their cargoes by boats. The country + about Rabat and Salee is wonderfully abundant in all the finest + grain, leguminous plants, fruits, vegetables, and cattle; the + orange, lemon, Seville, or bitter orange, and citron plantations + are here very extensive and extremely productive. Several ships + might be loaded here with oranges in October and November, before + the gales of the latter half of December and the month of January + set in. One hundred fine large oranges may be had for a drahim, a + silver coin worth 6_d._ sterling. The orange plantations of Rabat + are of incalculable extent; the trees are as large as a + middling-sized oak; the vineyards and cotton plantations are + likewise most abundant; and nothing can exceed the good quality of +114 the grapes, figs, oranges, citrons, apricots, peaches, and + water-melons; the quality of the latter is peculiarly _sweet_, they + are called _Dilla Seed Billa_; the seed of which might be + advantageously transported to our new colony, the Cape of Good + Hope. The vineyards of Rabat are very extensive; the vines are + cultivated in the Arabian system, on the ground, which is a light + sandy soil: the immense numbers of turtle-doves that are in these + vineyards is such, that a bad sportsman cannot fail killing a dozen + or two at every shot; they rise just before you in thousands, and + the foulahs, or vine cultivators, express their gratitude to the + Christians who go to shoot them. These birds, from being + unmolested, are so tame and so abundant, that they destroy an + incalculable quantity of the best fruit. + + [Footnote 112: The muden is the man who ascends the tower of + the Mosque and announces prayer.] + + On the 14th, the Comte de Fourban accompanied me, and we crossed + the river, in the ferry, to visit Salee. The inhabitants of this + town are inimical to Christians: we viewed the subterraneous cavern + where the Sallee rovers formerly confined their Christian slaves: + it resembled a mitfere or large subterraneous granary; it had two + grates to let in the air; it appeared perfectly dry, but no one was + in it. The Comte observed that it was far preferable to the prison + where he was confined in France, during the reign or usurpation of + Robespierre. The air of Salee and Rabat, and the adjacent country, +115 is strongly perfumed, morning and evening, with the sweet odour of + the orange-flower, of which they make immense quantities of + delectable comfits. + + On the morning of the 15th, we pursued our journey to Mequinas, + passing through a very fine country, inhabited by a Kabyl of + Berebbers, called Ait Zemurh. We halted, at four o'clock P.M. at a + circular Douar of these Berebbers, in a fine campaign country. The + next morning, at five o'clock, we struck the tents, and proceeded + through a dangerous country, infested by artful robbers, and the + occasional depredations of the lion and other wild beasts, whose + roaring we heard at a distance. We saw several square buildings, + which our guides informed us were built by the Berebbers, for the + purpose of destroying the lion. The patient hunter will conceal + himself in one of these buildings, which are about five feet by + seven, and will wait whole days for an opportunity to get a shot at + the lion: these noble beasts are here said to be the largest in all + Africa. After travelling this day ten hours, we pitched our tents + at another circular encampment of the Zimurite[113] Berebbers. + These people drive in stakes and place thorny bushes round their + encampment, eight feet high, and fill up the entrance every night + with thorns, as the fiercest lions of Africa abound in the adjacent + forests, and sometimes attack their habitations, accordingly they +116 keep a large fire all night to deter the lions and other wild + beasts from approaching. About two hours after midnight, my grey + horse, who was an old campaigner, neighed and awoke us; this gave + the alarm, and my people were presently on the alert, and perceived + two men approaching our tents, crawling naked along the ground, + which was of the same colour with their bodies. We did not wish to + take them, fearing that the people of the Douar would espouse the + cause of their countrymen, but my people gave the alarm, and + exclaimed "_Erd abellek asas_," i.e. "Be watchful, guards!" We then + saw these marauders jump up, and run away as fast as they could; + keeping watch the rest of the night: we were advised to take no + notice of this circumstance. The people of Ait Zimurh are professed + robbers: they would not allow us to pitch our tents _within_ their + circular encampment, a privilege universally granted to strangers + and travellers. I thought this very unhospitable; being totally + different from any thing I had ever before witnessed in this + country, where hospitality generally exceeds all bounds. I have no + doubt that the people of the Douar were in league with the robbers; + I considered my escape, the next day, when I was apprised of the + danger of the country I had confided in, quite providential, and I + have no doubt but these people would delude any one that would + trust to their honour: they reminded me of the ancient Africans, as + described by Sallust, in the wars of Jugurtha. + + [Footnote 113: The Zimurites, or Ait Zimure, are probably the + descendants of the Zemarites: for which see 1 Chron. i. 16.] +117 + We struck our tents at five o'clock, and travelled very fast to get + out of these treacherous habitations; for we learned that, the + preceding night, Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy, a Negro captain of the + emperor's army, passed this Douar, and was robbed of his bridles, + saddles, and tent equipage, with which the thieves made off, + without being discovered. I afterwards met Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy at + Mequinas; and he appeared quite astonished that I should have + escaped being robbed at the above Douar, calling the whole Kabyl a + set of lawless thieves. On the 17th, we started at five o'clock, + and arrived at Mequinas at nine o'clock, performing the journey + from Rabat to Mequinas in twenty-two hours, being sixty-six miles. + The city of Mequinas is the court-town of the northern division of + the empire: the imperial palace at this place is above two miles in + circumference. At the corners are erected (_Coba's_) square + buildings or pavilions, containing one room up stairs, where the + emperor frequently transacts business. This palace was built by the + sultan Muley Ismael: it is very neat, and consists for the most + part of moresque architecture; the marble columns and other + decorations were brought from (_Kasser Farawan_) the ruins of + Pharaoh, about a day's journey to the eastward. There is a superior + garden of choice fruit within the wall which surrounds the palace, + and in the latter are many elegant apartments, ornamented + _-la-mauresque_. The ladies of Mequinas are so extremely handsome, +118 that I cannot say I saw one plain young woman, although I visited + several families; nay, I can say, without offense to truth, that I + did not see one that was not comely and handsome. I was most + hospitably entertained wherever I went. On the 18th June, at eight + o'clock A.M. we started for Fas; when we had approached the latter + city, we met a messenger, with the prince Muley Abdsalam's + secretary, from the emperor to his excellency J.M. Matra, the + British ambassador to the court of Marocco, who informed me that + his excellency had just terminated his embassy, had waited for my + arrival two days, and was on his return to Tangier. Presuming, + therefore, that the ambassador had negociated my business for me, I + turned to the north-east, travelled all day without halting, till + eight o'clock in the evening, when we arrived at the renowned + sanctuary[114] of Muley Dris Zerone, on the declivity of North + Atlas; a most magnificent, beautiful, and picturesque country, + abounding in all the necessaries and luxuries of life. This + sanctuary was never before, nor since, visited by any Christian. It + was here that the standard of Muhamed was first planted in + North-western Africa, by the fakeer and prince Muley Dris, the + founder. A favourable combination of circumstances, of which I + availed myself, enabled me to procure not only an asylum, but a +119 most hospitable and kind reception and entertainment in this + renowned sanctuary; and I actually slept in the _Horem_ or Adytum + itself, which honour I obtained by a present, appropriated to the + circumstance, and sent to the chief fakeer of the sanctuary, + accompanied with some observations expressed in a manner which was + agreeable to the holy fraternity. When I entered the _Horem_ of + this renowned sanctuary, where I slept alone, its silence reminded + me of the silence of death, which formed one of the ancient + mysteries of Egypt. The chief of the fakeers met me in the portico, + and cordially shook hands with me, calling me his brother. At this + time there was a rumour that Bonaparte was preparing to invade the + country; and indeed he had intimated as much, the English were + therefore courted; it was even hoped and expected by the emperor + that they would in such an event become his allies, and give him + succour. The next morning, I gave the fakeer some wax candles + accompanied with observations emblematical of the present, which + was so favourably received, that no less than nine saints + prostrated themselves at the place of prayer, which is at the + entrance of the town, as I passed out to pursue my journey, + uttering with audible voices a (_ftha_) prayer of benediction, + invoking on me the protection of Almighty God, and a blessing on + the English nation; also that God would avert every danger from the + embassy, and restore them in safety to their native land. I am +120 perfectly aware that, in recording this extraordinary circumstance, + persons who have visited this country, and have remarked the + rancour that generally exists with the lower orders against + Christians, may doubt my veracity, so unprecedented a circumstance + it is for a Christian to be admitted into a _Horem_! the most + respected also and the most sacred in the empire! My answer to such + is, that the circumstance is so incredible, that I should not have + presumed to lay it before the British public, if I had not two most + respectable witnesses, _now living_ in West Barbary, who can and + will corroborate my report; these two men are Bel Hage, a Muselman, + who had been the prince's cook, and who officiated as mine during + the journey, and Muhamed, commonly called Deeb, of Diabet, a + village near Mogodor, the same man whose dexterity Aly Bey, in his + travels, alludes to, when he shot a fish in the river near Mogodor. + + [Footnote 114: The town, in the centre of which stands the + sanctuary, contains about 5000 inhabitants.] + + Half an hour's journey after leaving the sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone, and at the foot of Atlas, I perceived to the left of the + road magnificent and massive ruins; the country for miles around is + covered with broken columns of white marble, the ruins appeared to + be of the Egyptian, and massive style of architecture. There were + still standing two porticos, about thirty feet high and twelve feet + wide, the top of which was one entire stone. I attempted to take a + view of these immense ruins, which have furnished marble for the +121 imperial palaces at Mequinas and at Tafilelt; but I was obliged to + desist, seeing some persons of the sanctuary following the + cavalcade. Pots and kettles of gold and silver coins are + continually dug up from these ruins. The country, however, abounds + in serpents, and we saw many scorpions under the stones that my + conductor Deeb turned up. These ruins are said by the Africans to + have been built by one of the Pharaohs: they are called "_Kasser + Farawan_" i.e. the ruins of Pharaoh.[115] Here begins the territory +122 of the Brebber Kabyl, the Amorites or Ite-amor, said to be the + descendants of the ancient[116] Amorites, whose country was + situated east of Palestine. These people retain their ancient + warlike spirit, but they are a faithless tribe, and intolerable + thieves, unlike the other Kabyles (who are, at least, faithful to + one of their own Kabyl); but these marauders are exceedingly + mistrustful of their own brethren, so that their habitations + consist of two or three tents only, in one encampment; and even + these are sometimes at variance with each other. The lamentable +123 result of this mistrustful and marauding spirit, is wretched and + universal poverty. Their country is a succession of gentle + undulating hills, without trees or plantations of any kind. The + late sultan Muhamed used to compare the provinces or races of men + in his empire, to the nations of Europe, the English he called + warriors, the French faithless, the Spaniards quiet and + inoffensive, the Romans, i.e. the people of Italy, treacherous, the + Dutch a parsimonious and trading people; the other powers of + Europe, having no consul at Marocco, nor merchants in the country, + are known only by name: accordingly, in allusion to the warlike + spirit of the English, he would call the Ait Amor, "the English of + Barbary;" Temsena, the French; Duquella, the Spanish; Haha, the + Italians; and Suse, the Russians. When the sultan Muhamed began a + campaign, he never entered the field without the warlike Ait Amor, + who marched in the rear of the army; these people received no pay, + but were satisfied with what plunder they got after a battle; and + accordingly, this principle stimulating them, they were always + foremost on any contest, dispute, or battle. They begin the + campaign almost in a state of nudity, and seldom return to their + homes without abundance of apparel, arms, horses, camels, and + money; but this property quickly disappears, and these people are + soon again reduced to their wonted misery and nudity, and become +124 impatient for another campaign of plunder. When the present sultan, + Soliman, came from Mequinas, in the year of the plague (1799), a + division of his army passed near Mogodor, and the encampments of + the Ait Amor, or Amorites occupied the whole of the country from + the river to the Commerce Garden, a distance of three miles. It is + very probable that some other of the tribes bordering on Palestine, + may have emigrated in remote times, and may have taken their abode + on the Atlas mountains. There are above twenty (kabyls) tribes + of[117] Berebbers occupying the mountains of Atlas, as Ait-Girwan, + Zian, Ait-Ziltan, Ait-Amor, Ait-Ebeko, Ait-Kitiwa, Ait-Attar, + Ait-Amaran, and many more whose names I do not now recollect. We + travelled seven hours through the Amorite country, and pitched our + tents in the north part of the plains of Msharrah Rummellah. Fire + being lit, the Moors sat round to warm themselves, and confidently + animadverted on the prosperity that would necessarily attend our + journey, after having met with such a hospitable and favoured + reception at the renowned sanctuary before mentioned. + + [Footnote 115: In reply to those learned sceptics who have + studied books; but not men, and the manners of different + countries; who believe nothing but what they have seen; and who + say that Pharaoh never came so far west; I reply, that our + knowledge of African history is extremely imperfect. In fact, + we now know as certainties, various articles of which no record + is to be found in any ancient writer; for the affairs of + Africa, which, of late, have so deservedly excited the + attention of the learned, were as little known to the ancients + as they are to the moderns; insomuch that not a word is to be + found in any ancient record or history extant, of those curious + astronomical representations, the Zodiacs, which adorn the + ceilings of the temples in _Egypt_, nor of the paintings which + cover the silent and solemn repositories of their dead. Even + the royal sepulchres, surpassing all the efforts of art + hitherto known, in brilliancy of colours and decorative + sculptures, are recorded by no historian! Neither in any + history, _known to Europe_, is there any allusion to the + Egyptian custom of placing books, i.e. rolls of manuscript, in + the mummy coffins with the bodies of the deceased. For much of + the knowledge collected respecting Africa, we are indebted to + the catacombs of Egypt, and we must not hope to know much more, + whilst our ignorance of the Arabic language is so manifest; we + must travel far out of the precincts of Greek and Latin lore, + before we shall procure correct histories of African affairs! + Our knowledge of Hebrew, in Europe I apprehend, is almost as + much confined and as imperfect as that of Arabic! By the + assistance, however, of the latter, what store of learning + might we not expect from complete Arabic translations of many + of the Greek and Latin authors, _viz._ of the _complete_ works + of Livy, Tacitus, and many others. I recollect conversing with + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, (a gentleman deeply + versed in Arabian literature,) about the close of the last + century, who mentioned circumstances, which gave me reason to + suppose that there is extant a complete Arabic translation of + Livy as well as of Tacitus, as the bashaw assured me there was, + and that he had read them, and they were to be found in the + recondite chests of the Imperial library at Fas, in which it is + more than probable that there are many valuable transcripts in + Arabic of ancient authors, quite lost to erudite Europe! A + knowledge of the Arabic language in this country is so + indispensable, and is held in such high estimation, that every + one who does not understand it, is denominated _ajemmy_, _i.e._ + barbarian or European.--St. Paul in the same spirit says, I + Corinth. ch. xiv. v. 11., "He that speaketh unintelligibly, is + unto us a barbarian."] + + [Footnote 116: See Genesis, xv. 16. Deuteron. xx. 17. Judges, + i. 34.] + + [Footnote 117: Some persons consider several tribes of these + Berebbers to be colonies of the ancient Phenicians.] + + On the morning of the 20th June, we struck our tents at six + o'clock, and pursued our journey to L'Araich, and soon entered the + territory that belongs to the agriculturists of El Kassar Kabeer, a +125 beautiful country not unlike that of Ait-Amor in appearance, but + bearing the evidences of agricultural industry. Here we discovered + magnificent and extensive plantations of olives, immense + citron-trees, orange-groves, and spacious vineyards, peaches, + apricots, greengages, and walnuts were also the produce of this + country, besides excellent wheat of a large and long transparent + grain like amber, yielding, when ground into flour, from fifteen to + twenty per cent. increase, in quantity. Anxious now to overtake His + Excellency the ambassador, for the purpose of being present at his + entry into Tangier, we accelerated our pace, with a view of coming + up with him at L'Araich. We arrived at the forest of L'Araich at + dusk, and travelled through it all night till five o'clock next + morning. + + Having travelled incessantly twenty-three hours without halting, + being much fatigued, I desired Deeb to take a little rest with me + in an adjacent field, and we sent on Bel Hage with the baggage to + L'Araich, to wait our arrival at the ferry. We pursued our journey + at seven o'clock, and entered the town at nine. On reaching the + ferry, Bel Hage introduced a courier, who had been dispatched to me + from Fas, by a friend of mine, who informed me how much he, and + many of my Moorish friends had been disappointed, that I did not + enter that city, where I understood preparations had been made for + my entertainment, in the odoriferous gardens of the merchants of +126 Fas. The courier brought me a present of gold wire and gold thread, + of the manufacture of Fas, and some gold ornaments of filligrane + work from Timbuctoo, of the manufacture of Jinnie. It is more than + probable that the Fasees learned the art of manufacturing gold + thread from the Egyptians: it is much superior to that which is + imported into Barbary from Marseilles. The ladies ornament their + cambric dresses with it, and the Fas gold-thread never loses its + colour by washing, but the French does; the Fas gold thread wears + also much better, and is more durable; the change of colour may + possibly originate from the great proportion of alloy in the gold + of the French manufacture, whereas that of Fas, according to an + imperial edict, must be of a certain fineness, approaching to pure + gold; the gold wire of which it is made being first assayed by the + (_M'tasseb_) supervisor of manufactures. Great quantities of gold + thread are used in the elegant shawls and sashes of silk and gold + made at Fas, the better kind of which are reserved for princes and + bashaws, in which they use, as before observed, the Fas thread + only. They manufacture also at Fas, a very correct imitation of + amber-beads, impossible to be discriminated by the best judges, but + by rubbing the artificial amber, and then applying it to a bit of + cotton; the latter does not adhere, but the natural amber attracts + the cotton as a magnet does iron; and this is the discriminating + criterion whereby to distinguish them. +127 + But, to return to our journey, we found the ambassador had passed + the preceding day, we therefore crossed the river, and travelled on + till nine o'clock at night, when, after being a-horseback + thirty-four hours, refreshed only by two hours' sleep, we came up + with the ambassadors, Cafila, and guard, in a fine open campaign + country, half-way between Tangier and Arzilla; and soon after I + received a courier from Sir Pieter Wyk, Swedish consul-general to + the empire residing at Tangier, with a very friendly invitation to + his house and table, which being the first offer and from a sincere + and worthy friend, I with pleasure accepted it, and returned the + express immediately. On the morning of the 22d June, I breakfasted + at five o'clock with the ambassador, and, discussing with him my + business, I learned that he had terminated it to my satisfaction. + We started together at seven o'clock, and moved slowly on towards + Tangier, it having been ordered by the emperor, that the English + ambassador's entry into that town should be marked with every + possible honour and attention. An hour before we reached Tangier, + the governor, with the whole garrison, came out to salute and greet + the ambassador, the cavalry running full gallop, and firing their + muskets, as is the custom with them in all rejoicings. At half-past + eleven the cannon of Tangier began to announce the ambassador's + arrival, and continued, not a royal salute, but every gun in + Tangier was discharged; and at twelve o'clock we entered the gates. +128 + + LETTER XIV. + + _Result of the British Embassy_. + + FROM HIS EXCELLENCY J.M. MATRA TO MR. J. + + Old Fez, Sunday night, June 14, 1801. + + Dear Jackson; + + After a most unpleasant and tedious negotiation of nine days, I + have just finished my business. I march off early to-morrow + morning, and am much employed in packing up, translating, and + copying of papers. + + The letter I solicited for you is just brought to me, mixed with + Mr. Foxcroft's business, and the provision for the shipping in + Mogadore; but the Talb promises to bring me a separate one very + early in the morning, when I will inclose it to you. + + _Through the interest of Muly Abdel-melk-ben Driss, the orders were + some time since sent to Mogadore, to reduce your new duty to the + old standard of Seedi Muhamed_. + + I have been treated by the emperor like a prince, and with a + friendly personal attention I had no idea of; but my business has + been marvellously tormented. Of that, as we are to meet soon, I + will say no more. I am half dead. + + God bless you. + J. MATRA. +129 + + LETTER XV. + + _European Society at Tangier.--Sects and Divisions among Christians + in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the Propagation of Christianity, + and casts a Contempt upon Christians themselves.--The Cause of + it.--The Conversion of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation of + the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians themselves, as an + Example eligible to follow_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + It is not only the duty, but it is the manifest policy of + Christians who reside in Muhamedan countries, to preserve that + peace and harmony that is so often inculcated by our divine Master: + there should be no followers of Paul or of Apollos, of the Pope or + of Luther, but Christians altogether should forget sects, and + become followers of Christ, by practising his divine and luminous + doctrine. This principle, strictly adhered to, would have greater + effect in propagating the Christian doctrine, than the united + efforts, however arduous, of all the missionaries in Africa. We + should first begin by reforming the manners of those Christians who + are established in Muhamedan countries, holding responsible + situations, so as to show the Muhamedans, by their harmony and good + will, the advantages of the benign influence of the great Christian + principle, "Love thy neighbour as thyself." Until the disgraceful +130 animosity lamentably prevalent between the Catholic and Protestant, + the Lutheran, Calvinist, and other sects of Christians be + annihilated, it cannot be expected by any reasonable and reflecting + mind, that essential progress can be made in the propagation of + Christianity in Africa, at least in the Muhamedan part of it. We + must purify our own actions, and set a laudable example of chaste + and virtuous conduct, as a prelude to the conversion of the people + of this continent. The Africans, viz. the Arabs, Berebbers, + Shelluhs, Moors, and Negroes are, _generally_ speaking, shrewd, + acute, discerning races of men; and it cannot be supposed by any + but insane enthusiasts, that the doctrines of Christ can be + propagated in those countries, until an example be set for their + imitation better than their own practice, and more conformable to + the true Christian doctrine than any that has hitherto been offered + for their imitation. + + Tangier is the residence of the consuls-general of all the nations + of Europe, who send occasionally ambassadors to the Court of + Marocco; and these gentlemen generally act as envoys or ministers, + as well as consuls. The English, French, Dutch, American, Spanish, + Portuguese, Swedish, and Danish consuls reside here, some with + their families, some without. I had not been long here before I + perceived that the Moors of Tangier manifested an extraordinary + contempt for Christians, the general respect which is shown to them + at Mogodor, is unknown here. The reason is evident: the families of +131 these gentlemen were at variance with each other, and the + respective ladies did not visit one another. This circumstance was + too well known to the Moors, and materially contributed to create + among those people that contempt for the Christians, which, + perhaps, is due to all, whatever be their _professed_ doctrines, + who have not charity enough, in the correct acceptation of the + word, to maintain harmony in their own community. I was shocked to + see so many amiable families at variance. I will not declare if it + was pride, ambition, or contention for pre-eminence that produced + this want of harmony; but it is most certain, that Christians, + whose destiny it is to reside among Muhamedans, should have more + than ordinary care to preserve that philanthropic disposition to + each other, which carries with it a high recommendation, + particularly in a country like _West Barbary_, where the gate of + every tent is open to the largest, most disinterested, and + unqualified hospitality, and where the sheik of every douar + considers it his first and indispensable duty to provide food and + rest to the needy traveller, and to the stranger at his gate. +132 + + LETTER XVI. + + _Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, showing the Distances + from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic Ocean; useful to + Persons travelling in that Country_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Mogodor, 1801. + + If you should ever come to this country, and have occasion to + travel through it, the following journal of a journey from Tangier + to Mogodor may be of service to you, in ascertaining the distances + from one port to another, &c. + + Departed from Tangier for Mogodor, + July 15, 1801, at 9 o'clock, A.M. Hours. + + Arrived at Arzilla, at 7, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; arrived at L'Araich, + at 2, P.M. 7 + + Started at 5, A.M.; arrived at Ras Doura, + at 3, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 6, A.M.; travelled three hours; + came to a plain, level country, and arrived + at Salle, at 10 o'clock, P.M. 16 + + Crossed the river in the ferry, and remained + at the French Consul's Hotel, at + Rabat, three days. Mounted at 9; arrived + at El Mensoria, at 9, P.M. 12 +133 + Mounted at 6, A.M.; arrived at Dar El + Beida, at half-past 2, P.M. 8-1/2 + + Proceeded without halting, and arrived at + the Douar of Woled Jeraar, at 9, P.M. + and pitched our tents. 7 + + Mounted at 5, A.M.; arrived at Azamore, + at 7, P.M. 14 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; travelled southward, + leaving Mazagan to the right, and arrived + at the Douar of Woled Aisah, at + 1 o'clock, P.M. and pitched our tents. 6 + + Departed at 7, A.M.; arrived at El Woladia, + at 6, P.M. 11 + + Mounted at 8; arrived at Saffy, at 5. 9 + + Started at 1, P.M.; rode six hours to the + river Tansift; slept at the Sanctuary + near the river. 6 + + Rose at midnight, struck the tents, and + mounted at 1 o'clock, A.M. arrived at + the Sanctuary of Seedi Buzurukton, at + 11. 10 + + Dined, slept, and started again at 4 + o'clock, P.M. and entered Mogodor at + half-past 7 o'clock. 3-1/2 + + 130 + + Average rate of travelling, (including stoppages,) three miles per + hour, 390 miles in 130 hours. +134 + + LETTER XVII. + + _An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to Saffy, during a Civil War, + in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not pass, owing to the + Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and Shedma.--Stratagem + adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger of being + discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and + Compliments received from him on his having accomplished this + perilous Journey_. + + TO THE SAME. + Mogodor, 1802. + + Having arranged all my affairs, I awaited an opportunity to depart + for England. A Spanish vessel was lying at the port of Saffy, + nearly ready to sail, bound to Cadiz; but how to reach the former + port was the difficulty; the provinces of Shedma and Haha, through + which I must necessarily pass, were at war against each other, and + an army of several thousand men were encamped at Ain el Hajar, a + spring near the road, between Mogodor and Saffy; so that all + communication was cut off, insomuch that it was dangerous, even for + a courier, to attempt to pass from one port to the other. I was + extremely anxious to reach Europe, and I determined to go to Saffy + by land. I accordingly sent for a trusty Arab, whose character for +135 fidelity I had often before proved. I asked him if he would + undertake to conduct me to Saffy. He required a day to consider of + it. He then resolved to attempt it, provided I would adopt the + dress of an Arab, and accompany him: I agreed; and we started from + Mogodor at 4 o'clock; P.M. We passed into a convenient recess, to + change my dress, which being done, we mounted our horses and rode + away; we had not gone two hours, before some scouts of the army + came galloping towards us. Billa (my trusty guide, who was a native + of Shedma, and a man of considerable influence in that province) + and his friend rode off with speed to meet them, and having + satisfied them that we were about business relating to the army, + they returned, and Billa's friend joining me, we inclined our steps + towards the sea, whilst Billa kept guard at a distance; and, + reaching a convenient and solitary retreat, we halted there till + dark; when retracing our steps for a few miles, it was concerted + that I should pass as a wounded man retiring from the army to have + my wounds examined and dressed. Billa was so well acquainted with + the roads, and all the bye-passes of the country, that, travelling + fast over the plains, not on the roads, we soon reached to the + northward of the encampments of Shedma. We passed several + straggling parties from the army, who saluted us with (_Salem u + alikume_) "Peace be to you;" to which we replied ("_Alikume +236 assalam_") "To you peace;" and Billa added "_Elm'joroh_," i.e. a + wounded man. In the old bed of the river Tansift, now full of + bushes of white broom, I narrowly escaped being discovered: as the + day was breaking, a party of Arabs suddenly turned a corner, and I + had just time to cover my mouth and chin with my (_silham_) cloak, + before they gave the salutation, or they would have discovered me + (being without a beard) to be a Christian; we passed the river, + however, perfectly safe, and were then soon in the province of + Abda, when all danger was at an end; we entered the town of Saffy, + at two o'clock in the afternoon. The Bashaw of Abda, _Abdrahaman + ben Nassar_, a renowned warrior, who had been at the head of an + army of 60,000 horse, in opposition to the Emperor, Muley Soliman, + received me with his accustomed urbanity and hospitality, and asked + me if I had come to Saffy through the air, or by sea. I replied, I + had come by neither, but by land. "How is it possible," said he, + "that you could come by land, when even a courier could not pass. + Did you meet with no impediment?--you astonish me: but praise be to + God, that you have arrived safe, and you are welcome." +137 + + LETTER XVIII. + + _Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy, in + Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in + Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, + in Suse.--Country infested with rats.--Situation of + Tomie.--Entertainment at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled + Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to entertain his Guests.--Arabian + Dance aud Music.--Manner and Style of Dancing.--Eulogium of the + Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners of the latter.--Their + personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to have a Commercial + Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince respecting + Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various + Articles of Commerce.--Viceroys offer to build a House, and the + Duties.--Contemplated Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold + and Silver Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and + Grapes.---Mode of Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at + Delemy's.--Elegant Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince + prepares to depart for Tafilelt_. + + TO THE SAME. + Santa Cruz, June 7, 1794. + + I received a letter from the[118] Prince Muley Abdsalam, who lately + went from Santa Cruz to the Khalif of Suse, Alkaid Muhamed ben + Delemy, whose castle is in Shtuka. The prince wished to see me on +138 some commercial business that had been suggested to him by the + khalif or viceroy. We (that is, Signor Andrea de Christi, a native + of Italy, and a Dutch merchant established at Santa Cruz, and + myself) prepared our tents and servants, and departed for Shtuka + early in the morning. We passed through a fine campaign country, + occupied by a tribe of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, and arrived, late + at night, at (_Luksebba_) the castle of Delemy, who was also sheik + of an emigration of the Arabs called Woled Abbusebah, and of + another emigration of Arabs called Woled Deleim, who had taken up + their abodes in Shtuka. When we arrived, our reception was in the + true style of Arabian hospitality. Delemy had prepared and had + pitched tents in a large garden adjoining his castle, wherein we + resided. Our own tents were pitched in the Mushoir, or place of + audience, a spacious plain, enclosed by a wall, where the sheik + gave audience to the various kabyls of Suse. The following day we + had an audience of the prince, who requested me to accompany Delemy + to a port of Suse, which had been formerly frequented by European + ships, which took in water there, and ascertain if it were a port + convenient for a commercial establishment. The name of this seaport + was called Tomie by the Portuguese, who formerly had an + establishment there; but by the Arabs, _Sebah Biure_, i.e. the + Seven Wells, because there were seven wells of excellent water +139 there: three of them, however, when we visited this port, were + filled up and useless. We left Delemy's castle in the afternoon, + about two or three o'clock, and we went at a pace called by the + Arabs _el herka_[119], over a plain country infested with rats, and + the haunts of serpents, our horses continually stumbling over the + rat-holes. We were, to the best of my recollection, about four + hours going. We found Tomie, an open road, not altogether + calculated to form an advantageous commercial establishment. Its + situation with respect to the sea being somewhat objectionable. We + sat down near one of the wells, and after Delemy and his guards had + amused themselves with (_lab el borode_) running full gallop and + firing, we drank Hollands till we became gay. The sun had just set, + when we mounted our horses to return. After an hour's _herka_, we + approached a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, who, seeing their + sheik, came forward and kissed his stirrups, entreating him to pass + the night with them, which, it appeared, would have been contrary + to the etiquette of Arabian hospitality to refuse. Delemy, + therefore, asked us if we would consent to sleep there; and, + apologising for not conducting us to our own beds that night, again + intimated, that it was, in a manner, incumbent on him, not to + refuse. We, therefore, consented to stop. This noble-spirited Arab, +140 anxious to entertain us, and justly conceiving that the beds and + habits of these Arabs were very different from what we had been + accustomed to, sought to beguile the time, and accordingly + endeavoured to engage some ladies belonging to the douar to dance, + but they positively declined dancing before Christians. Delemy + expostulated with them, representing the propriety of doing so, + before the prince's guests; but the ladies apologised, by declaring + that their splendid dancing dresses were not made up. Delemy, + however, with the true energy of an Arab, was determined that he + would make our abode here as pleasant as possible, and desirous + also to show us the spirit of Arabian dancing, he went himself, + accompanied by two of his friends, to a douar, at some miles' + distance, and, after much persuasion, he prevailed on six young + ladies to come and dance. In about two hours, the sheik returned, + and informed us, that knowing that beds in the desert would not + suit our customs, he had engaged some young girls to amuse us with + dancing during the night, assuring us at the same time that they + excelled in that graceful art, and he had no doubt they would amuse + us. The tents were cleared and lighted; two sheep were killed, and + the _cuscasoe_ was preparing, when the ladies arrived. The music + consisted of an instrument similar to a flageolet, (_tabla_) a + kettle-drum, and a sort of castanets of steel, an _erbeb_, or + fiddle with two strings, played with a semicircular bow. The tunes +141 were gay and sprightly, and the damsels tripped along on the light + fantastic toe in a very superior and elegant style. They danced + without men; advancing gently at first, apparently without taking + the foot off the ground, but gradually advancing; after which they + performed some steps similar to those in the Spanish bolera; and, + turning round on the toe, they danced a most elegant _shawl_ dance, + equal to what was danced at the Opera in London by Parisot, but + without the horizontal movement, or any motion that could offend + the chastest eye. This unique national dance was encouraged from + time to time by the approbation of twelve captains of the viceroy's + guard, warriors of fame in arms, who were Arabs of the Woled + Deleim, and who were seated in a circle, with us, round the + dancers, expressing their delight and gratification in witnessing + such superior grace and elegance, exclaiming-- + + "Afakume el Arabe, makine fal el Arabe, + El Hashema, u zin, u temara, fie el Arabe." + "Bravo, O Arabs! there is none equal to the Arabs: + Excellent is the modesty, beauty, and virtue of the Arabs." + + [Footnote 118: Elder Brother of the present Emperor of Marocco, + Muley Soliman.] + + [Footnote 119: A pace similar to that which European cavalry go + when charging.] + + These eulogiums were not lost on the ladies, who increased the + spirit of the dance. When this amusement had continued about three + hours, the cuscasoe, meat, and vegetables were brought in, as a + supper. The Moors ate plentifully; but the abstemious Arabs ate + very little; the ladies partook of sweet cakes and dates; they very +142 seldom chew meat, but when they do, they think it gross to swallow + it, they only press the juices from the meat, and throw away the + substance. The manners of these damsels were elegant, accompanied + with much suavity and affability, but very modest and unassuming + withal: indeed, they were all individuals, as I afterwards learned, + belonging to respectable and ancient Arab families, who could not + resist the exhortations of their sheik to amuse and entertain his + guests. The manners of these Arabs, their elegant forms, sparkling + black eyes, long black eye-lashes, which increased the beauty of + the eye, adding character to the countenance, seemed to make an + indelible impression on the whole party. The ladies wore robes of + Indian muslin, girdles of gold thread, interwoven with silk of the + Fas manufacture; and their shawls of silk and gold were displayed + in various elegant devices. We were given to understand by Delemy's + captains, on our return to the sheik's castle, that we had been + entertained with extraordinary honours: we certainly were highly + gratified, and my friend Signor Andrea declared he had never seen + better dancing at Venice, his native place. Among the Arabs was an + old man of ninety, who appeared very desirous of an European + establishment at Tomie. He related several anecdotes of his life; + and, among others, the money he had gained, by purchasing goods of + vessels which came forty or fifty years before to Tomie for water, + with which he said he used to exchange gums and almonds, feathers +143 and ivory, for linens, cloths, and spices. I am disposed to think + these vessels were Portuguese; for this coast is but little known + to the English. The ladies having returned home, we prepared to + leave this douar early in the morning; and with no small regret did + I quit this abode of simple and patriarchal hospitality; a pleasing + contrast was here formed to the dissipation and pleasure of + civilised life--to the life of fashionable society, where the + refinements of luxury have multiplied their artificial wants beyond + the proportion of the largest fortunes, and have brought most men + into the class of the necessitous, inducing that churlish habit of + the mind, in which every feeling is considered as a weakness, which + terminates not in self, unlike those generous sympathies of the + Arabs, where every individual seems impelled to seek, as they + express it, (_ dire el khere fie nes_) "to do good to men." The + effect of luxury, dissipation, and extravagance, (where the fortune + is not large enough to support them,) tends to render man selfish + upon principle, and extinguishes all genuine public spirit, that + is, all real regard to the interests and good order of society; + substituting in its place, the vile ambition and rapacity of the + demagogue, which, however, assumes the name of patriotism. This + contrast between the temperance and sobriety of these Bedouin or + primitive Arabs, and the luxury and dissipation of civilised life, + was the more remarkable, when we observed among this rude people + such extraordinary and mutual exercise of benevolence, manly and +144 open presence, honesty and truth in their words and actions.--On + our return to Delemy's castle, in Shtuka, the Prince asked me, what + observations I had made respecting Tomie; I told his Royal Highness + that it was an open roadstead, and not a convenient place for ships + to lie. The Prince appeared pleased at this report; but Delemy had + rendered to Muley Abdsalam so many essential services, that the + latter could not, in courtesy, refuse him any thing. When Delemy + found that my report to the Prince did not realise his + expectations, offers were made to me, supported by every possible + encouragement, to form a commercial establishment at Tomie, which, + as was observed, being advantageously situated for trade, being in + the neighbourhood of the gum, almond, and oil countries, would + offer advantages to the merchants which they could not expect at + Santa Cruz, or Mogodor. Accordingly, I was urged to send to Europe + for ships, with assurances that the duty on all imports, as well as + exports, should be only two per cent. _ad valorem_. A house was + offered to be built for me, according to any plan I might choose to + suggest, free of expense. The people were desirous of having a + commercial establishment in their country, and would have done any + thing to accomplish this object. The extensive connections which I + had throughout Suse, Sahara, and even at Timbuctoo, would have + facilitated my operations; but my connections in England were not + such as to enable me to engage advantageously in this enterprise, I + was obliged, therefore, though reluctantly, to decline it, +145 although, if otherwise situated, I might have realised an + independent fortune in two or three years at Tomie, besides having + a most favourable opportunity of opening a trade with Timbuctoo, + and other territories of Sudan. + + I now felt a strong inclination to visit the port of Messa, which + was reported to have been about two centuries before, a + considerable port of trade, and the capital of Suse, when that + country was a separate kingdom, and the state-prisoners were + banished to Sejin-messa[120], (commonly called Segelmessa in the + maps;) as the state prisoners of Marocco have been from time + immemorial, and are to this day sent to Tafilelt, which territory + lies contiguous to, and west of Sejin-messa. We started for Messa + in the morning, and reached the town in the afternoon. Delemy sent + a strong guard with me for protection, with an injunction to his + friend the _fakeer_ of Messa, to treat me as his friend and guest, + and to do whatever he could to gratify my curiosity in every + respect. The country about Messa is very picturesque, and + productive: the river also abounds with romantic scenery, it has a + sandbar at its entrance to the ocean, which is dry at low water; + but it was once navigable several miles up, as was reported to me. + On the south bank of the river, about two miles from the sea, is a +146 gold-mine, in the territory of a tribe hostile to Delemy, but the + influence of the Fakeer, who is held in reverential awe, enabled us + to examine it without danger. What they told us was the entrance, + was filled with immense large pieces of rock-stone; and I was + informed, that when the Christians left the place, (the Portuguese, + no doubt,) they placed these stones at the entrance of the mine, to + prevent the natives from getting access to it. In the bed of the + river, near the sea, is a mine of silver; the ore is in very small + particles, like lead-coloured sand, intermixed with mud. I sent a + small quantity of this to England to be analysed; and it produced, + as I was informed, just enough to pay the expenses of analysation. + I sent also several specimens of gold and silver ore, which I + collected in various parts of Suse; but I apprehend that sufficient + attention was not paid to them, and they also scarcely paid for the + analysation. I sent also to the Honourable Mr. Greville, brother to + the late Earl of Warwick, a great many basaltick and other stones, + collected in the mountains of Barbary, which that gentleman + considered valuable. After remaining two days at Messa, I returned + to Shtuka. I was again urged to form an establishment at Tomie; + but, limited as my connection was in England, I did not feel + competent to the undertaking, and was obliged, reluctantly indeed, + but finally, to decline it. + + [Footnote 120: Sejin Messa signifies the prison of Messa.] + + The garden of Delemy, where we encamped, is stocked with very fine +147 vines from the mountains of Idautenan,[121] a mountainous and + independent country, a few miles north of Santa Cruz; these grapes + were of the black or purple kind, as big as an ordinary-sized + walnut, and very sweet flavoured, as much superior to the finest + Spanish grapes, as the latter are superior to the natural grown + grapes of England. Large pomegranates, exquisitely sweet, the + grains very large, and the seed small, brought from Terodant; figs, + peaches, apricots, strawberries, oranges, citrons of an enormous + size, water-melons, weighing fifty pounds each, four of which were + a camel load, together with culinary vegetables of every + description. This garden was watered by a well, having what is + called a Persian wheel, worked by a horse, having pots all round + the perpendicular wheel, which, as they turn round, discharge their + contents into a trough, which communicated to the garden, and laid +148 the beds under water. This is the general mode of irrigation + throughout west and south Barbary, as well as in Sudan. + + [Footnote 121: The mountains of Idautenan divide the province + of Haha from Suse: they are exempt from _Ska u Laskor_, that + is, two per cent. on live stock, and 10 per cent. on produce + which is the regular impost on the country. They are a brave + race of Shelluhs, inhabiting a table-land in the mountains that + is a perfect terrestrial paradise. There is but one person in + Europe besides myself who has ever been in this country. Sheik + Mluke, the sheik of Idautenan, is a generous noble-spirited + independent character. When an emperor dies, the sheik sends + Muley Ismael's firman, emancipating the district from all + impost or contribution to the revenue, for some military + service rendered by this district to the ancestor of Ismael, + and the succeeding emperors invariably confirm their + emancipation of Idautenan.] + + The Prince was very anxious to be of service to Delemy, who had + ingratiated himself with the former, by signalising himself in + feats of arms. He had been also a main pillar to the throne, and I + sincerely regretted that the combination of circumstances did not + permit me to accept the liberal and advantageous offers made to me. + + Delemy's renown had spread far to the south, even unto Sudan: from + the latter country he was visited by some people, who wore circular + rings of pure gold, through the cartilage of the nose. The rings + were two or three inches in diameter; and when these people ate, + they turned them up over the nose. Delemy had received a present, + from some king of Sudan, of a very elegant sword, ornamented with + diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, he showed me this sword, which was + evidently manufactured in Europe; he told me, he had been offered + 5000 dollars for it; but he had been informed that it was worth + double that sum. + + I was invited by the Khalif of Suse to visit the immensely + extensive plantations of olives at Ras el Wed, near Terodant, + through which a man may proceed a whole day's journey without + exposure to the sun: also he offered to accompany me to the eastern + part of Shtuka, where the produce of bitter and sweet almonds is + equally abundant, and the plantations equally extensive with those +149 of the olive at Ras el Wed; but I had seen plantations of both on a + smaller scale at Ait-Musie, Fruga, and other parts of this empire; + and therefore the sight would have been no novelty, except in + extent. I understood these plantations were on the same plan and + principle with those I had seen, leaving at certain distances, + square openings, to admit the air, for the better promotion of the + growth and increase of the fruit and produce of the trees. + + The Prince was preparing to depart through Draha, and Bled el + Jereed, to Tafilelt; and we had our audience of leave previous to + his departure. +150 + + LETTER XIX. + + _Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers ventured to + pass, owing to civil War and Contention among the Kabyles.--Moorish + Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of Travellers.--Travelled + with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or + Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land. Bitter Effects of + Revenge and Retaliation on the Happiness of Society.--Origin of + these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with + Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among + the Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic + Honey.--Ceremony at Meals, and Mode of eating.--Travelled all + Night, and slept in the open Air;--Method of avoiding the + Night-dew, as practised by the Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, April 7, 1795. + + The province of Haha was in arms; caffilahs, and travellers could + not pass; but it was expedient that I should go to Mogodor. Men of + property in this country, influenced by a philanthropic spirit, + often expend large sums in digging wells in districts, through + which caffilahs pass, on their road from one country to another. I + knew one of these philanthropists who was at Santa Cruz, and who + had recently benefited the province of Haha, by having dug a well +151 in the Kabyl of Benitamer, a mountainous district in Haha; I sent + for him, and as he was under obligations to me for various services + I had rendered to him and his family, he consented to accompany me + to Mogodor, through the disturbed province of Haha; and he assured + me, that his influence throughout that province was such, that, by + travelling quick, and without any baggage, tents, or incumbrances, + he did not doubt of conducting me safe to Mogodor. I agreed to go + with him, without servants, tents, or bedding, being determined to + reconcile myself, under present circumstances, to the accommodation + the country might afford. We started from Santa Cruz at sun-set; + travelling through Tamaract, to the river Beni Tamur. We continued + our journey till we arrived, at the dawn of day, at the foot of + immense high mountains, called Idiaugomoron. Here my companion and + guide L'Hage Muhamed bu Zurrawel, pointed out to me two castellated + houses, about two miles distant from each other; the + family-quarrels of these people had produced such animosity, that + the inhabitants of neither house could with safety go out, for fear + of being overpowered and killed by those of the other; so that + wherever they went, they were well armed, but dared not go far. + These two families were preparing for a siege, which often happens + in this province. Thus the inhabitants of one house attack another, + and sometimes exterminate or put to death the whole family, with + their retainers. The province of Haha was thus in a state of the +152 most lamentable civil war, originating from these family-quarrels + and domestic feuds. The heathen and anti-christian principle of + revenge and retaliation, is here pursued with such bitter and + obstinate animosity, that I have known instances of men + relinquishing their vocation, to go into a far country to revenge + the blood of a relation after a lapse of twenty years, and pursue + the object of his revenge, for some murder committed in his family, + perhaps forty or fifty years before. + + To a British public, blessed with the benign influences of the + Christian doctrine, it is perhaps necessary that I should elucidate + this retaliative doctrine by an example:--Two men quarrel, and + fight; they draw their kumyas (curved daggers about 12 inches + long), which all the people of Haha wear, as well as all the clans + or kabyles of Shelluhs; and if one happens to give his antagonist a + _deadly_ wound, it becomes an indispensable duty in the next of kin + to the person killed or murdered, (though perhaps it can hardly be + termed a murder, as it is not committed, like an European duel, in + cold blood, but in the moment of irritation, and at a period when + the mind is under the influence of anger,) to seek his revenge by + watching an opportunity to kill the survivor in the contest. If the + former should die, his next of kin takes his place, and pursues his + enemy, whose life is never safe; insomuch that, whole kabyles, when + this deadly animosity has reached its acme, have been known to quit +153 their country and emigrate into the Sahara; for when the second + death has been inflicted, it then becomes the incumbent duty of the + next of kin of the deceased to seek his revenge: they call this + justifying blood. This horrible custom has the most lamentable + influence on the happiness of human life; for there will sometimes + be several individuals seeking the life of one man, till this + principle, pervading all the ramifications of relationship and + consanguinity, produces family-broils, hostility, and murder, _ad + infinitum!!_ We stopped at a friend of L'Hage Muhamed, who + presented us with honey and butter, thin shavings of the latter + being let to fall into a bowl of honey for breakfast. This bowl was + served up with flat cakes kneaded without leaven, and baked on hot + stones; these are converted from corn into food in less than half + an hour; they are in shape similar to our crumpets or pancakes. We + were pressed by this Shelluh to stay and dine with him, which being + agreed to, he sent a shepherd to his flock to kill a fat young kid, + which was roasted with a wooden spit, before the vital heat had + subsided, which was very tender, and of an exquisite flavour. The + bread or cakes above described appear to be similar to what the + women kneaded for the guests in the patriarchal ages: indeed, the + customs of these people, as well as those of the Arabs, is + precisely the same as they were in the patriarchal ages, and which + are delineated in the 18th chapter of Genesis, 1st to the 8th + verse. +154 + The honey of this province is very fine: it has an aromatic + flavour, derived from the wild thyme and other aromatic herbs on + which the bees feed. Among these people every meal is preceded with + a washing of their hands with water, which is brought round for the + purpose in a brass pan; each guest dips his right hand in the pan, + and a napkin is presented to wipe them; they then break the bread, + and, after saying grace, which is universally this,--_bismillah_, + i.e. "in the name of God," each guest takes a bit of bread, dips it + in the honey and butter, and eats it. It is reckoned uncourteous or + vulgar to bite the bread; therefore the piece broken off is + sufficient for a mouthful, so that there is nothing that should + offend a delicate appetite in this antique mode of eating. We + remained several hours with our hospitable Shelluh friend; and we + departed, after taking a little sleep, at four o'clock in the + afternoon. Travelling all night, we arrived, at the dawn of day, at + a large house in Idaugourd; the Shelluh to whom it belonged brought + us carpets, and we slept under the wall of his house till the sun + arose. The people of this country prefer sleeping in the open air + to a room, and they have an excellent mode of securing themselves + from the heavy dews of the night, by covering their heads and faces + with a thin woollen hayk or garment, which they throw over their + heads and faces. When I have had the Arabs of Sahara (who have + conducted the caffilahs from Timbuctoo) at my house at Santa Cruz, +155 I gave them a long narrow room, 48 feet long, which was called + (_beet assuda_) the apartment of Sudan, to sleep in; but they + invariably came out at night, and placed their carpets and mats, as + beds, outside of the room, and slept under the balustrade, in + preference to the confinement, as they called it, of a room. + + We rose at sun-rise, passed through the picturesque district of + Idaugourd and the Woolja, and entered Mogodor at four o'clock, P.M. +156 + + + + AN ACCOUNT + OF THE + RISE, PROGRESS, AND DECREASE + OF + THE PLAGUE + _That ravaged Barbary in_ 1799; + FAITHFULLY EXTRACTED FROM + LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE HOUSE OF JAMES JACKSON + AND CO., OR BY JAMES G. JACKSON, + MERCHANTS AT MOGODOR, + TO THEIR CORRESPONDENTS IN EUROPE, DURING THE + EPIDEMY. + + * * * * * + + _Fragments respecting the Plague_. + + When the Emperor's army proceeded from Fas to Marocco in the summer + of 1799, a detachment of which passed by Mogodor, consisting of + 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot, it had the plague with it; so that, + wherever it passed, the plague uniformly appeared three days after + its arrival at the respective douars near which it encamped; those + who died were buried in the tents, and the people of the provinces + knew little about it. + + A large _akkaba_[122], consisting of upwards of 1700 camels, +157 arrived 23d August, 1799, at Akka from Timbuctoo, laden with + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, and gold dust, which had brought also + many slaves; this _akkaba_ had deposited its merchandize at Akka, + till the plague should disappear and the country become healthy; as + the people of that territory, unlike Muhamedans in general, will + hold no communication with the infected, nor will they admit any + one from these parts. + + [Footnote 122: An _akkaba_ is an accumulated caravan.] + + Mogodor, April 31, 1799. + + A violent fever now rages at Fas: some assert it to be the plague, + but that is Moorish report, and little to be depended on; the + European consuls at Tangier, and the Spanish ambassador, who, + having terminated his embassy, has lately left Mequinas, mention it + as an epidemical disorder. + + May 20. The small-pox rages violently throughout this country, and + is of a most virulent kind: its origin is ascribed to the famine + that has of late pervaded this country, and which was produced by + the incredible devastation of the devouring locusts; the dregs of + olives, after the oil had been extracted, has been the only food + that could be procured by many thousands. + + Mogodor, June 14, 1799. + + Various reports reach us daily from _the city of Marocco_, + respecting the epidemy that prevails there, some say 200 die, some +158 say 100, others limit the daily mortality to 50, in a population, + according to the imperial register, of 270,000. + + When any _light_ rain falls, as is the case at Marocco at this + season of the year, the mortality increases. Mr. Francisco Chiappe, + an Italian merchant, is just arrived from Marocco, and is + performing quarantine, by his own desire, at the Emperor's + garden.[123] This gentleman reports, that the greater portion of + the people die of fear, from hunger, or bad food, or from the + small-pox, which latter has raged at Marocco the last month or two; + but he had not been able to ascertain, so various were the reports, + whether it was the plague or not. The emperor's army, a division of + which passed through this country, and encamped at the river, about + two miles south of this port, had the distemper with it. We have + been assured, that the soldiers who died, were immediately buried + within the tents, so that, by this stratagem, the mortality was not + perceived by the public; it was apprehended that, if the mortality + were known, the kabyls, through which the army passed from Mequinas + to Marocco, would not have supplied the troops with provision. This + detachment consisted of 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot. No disorder + has yet appeared here, nor in the adjacent provinces of Shedma and + Haha. + + [Footnote 123: A garden in the province of Haha, five miles + from Mogodor, that was presented to the European merchants by + the late sultan, Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah.] +159 + July 5. We dispatched the Spanish brig yesterday; but she is still + at anchor in the road, waiting for passengers, who fly from hence + with precipitation, from fear of the fever or plague, which + prevails at Fas and at Marocco, and which, it is reported, has made + its appearance at the port of Saffy. We have, however, nothing of + the kind here yet, though we expect we shall not escape the general + scourge. + + July 13. The epidemy in the interior provinces has greatly + augmented, insomuch, that the demand for linen to bury the dead + rapidly increases, and the stock is almost exhausted. This article + has risen to an unprecedented price. All the relatives of L'Hage + Abdallah have fallen victims to the epidemy. This gentleman is + consequently in possession of very considerable property; and (if + he be not also carried off) there will be no fear of our recovering + the debt he owes you. + + We cannot ascertain if the disorder prevails in the outer town, and + in the Jews' quarter, or not; it is certain, however, that eight or + ten die daily of the small-pox, and as many more of fevers and + other disorders, as report proclaims. + + July 25. We are so much engaged in making arrangements against the + epidemy, which is now confidently reported to us to be the plague, + of a most deadly species, that we have only time to refer you to + the captain of the Aurora, to whom we have communicated every +160 particular, and who is extremely anxious to be off for England. The + deaths in this town, which contained a population of 10,000, + according to the imperial register, are from forty to fifty each + day. + + Aug. 1. As the plague now rages violently here, no one thinks of + business or the affairs of this world; but each individual + anticipates that he will be next called away. I send the inclosed, + to be forwarded to Mr. Andrea de Christo, at Amsterdam, to announce + to him the sudden death of his partner, Mr. J. Pacifico, who is + lately dead of the plague. I paid him a visit a few hours before + his death; I met there Don Pedro de Victoria, who was smoking a + segar; he offered me one, and urged me to smoke it. I believe that + the smoke of tobacco is anti-pestilential; this, added to the + precaution of avoiding contact, and inhalation of the breath of the + person infected, appears to be quite sufficient to secure a person + from infection. + + Aug. 1. (Translation of a letter to Mr. Andrea de Christi, merchant + at Amsterdam.) We are sorry that the subject of this letter is so + melancholy. All our domestics have left us; the plague rages so + violently here, that the daily mortality is from sixty to seventy, + among which we are sorry to announce the death of your partner, Mr. + J. Pacifico, who died two days since. + + August 23. The best gum is selling at Akka for six dollars a + quintal: they will not bring it here, fearing the infection. A +161 large Brazil ship has been wrecked off Cape Noon, her cargo, + consisting for the most part of silks and linens, is estimated at + half a million of dollars. The Arabs of Sahara convert the most + beautiful lace into bridles for their horses, by twisting it; and + superior silk stockings are selling at Wedinoon at a dollar per + dozen pair. The plague is rapidly diminishing from 100 deaths to 20 + or 30 per day. Meeman Corcoes is dead, as well as most of the + principal tradesmen of Marocco and Fas; whole families have been + swept off, and there is none left to inherit their property. + Immense droves of horses, mules, and cattle of every description + stray in the plains without owners. + + September 5. The plague continues to decrease; and in another month + we expect to be quite free from it. Signor Conton died this morning + of the epidemy; yesterday afternoon he was apparently quite well, + and paid me a visit. He wished me to shake hands with him, which I + declined, alleging as an excuse, that I would dispense with that + custom till the plague should pass over. He drank a glass of wine, + and appeared cheerful and in good health. I have had fixed in my + dining room, a table that extends from one end to the other. I walk + or sit on one side of the table, my visitors on the other. I am + only cautious to avoid personal contact. All the houses of the + other merchants are closely barricaded or bolted. A fumigating pot +162 of gum sandrac stands at the entrance of my house, continually + burning, which diffuses an agreeable perfume, but is not, as I + apprehend, an antidote to the epidemy. + + October 1. We have to apprise you of the decease of L'Hage Abdallah + El Hareishy, most of whose relations are dead. His brother is the + only one of the family besides himself that remains: he has + inherited considerable property, and thence will be enabled to pay + your bill on him in our favour. + + October 29. The plague appears to have ceased in this town. All the + merchants have opened their houses; but the disorder continues in + the provinces, from whence there is little or no communication with + the town. The kabyls seem to be wholly engaged in burying their + dead, in arranging the affairs of their respective families, in + dividing the property inherited by them, and in administering + consolation to the sick. + + Nov. 11. The plague having committed incalculable ravages + throughout this country, had put a stop to all commerce, which now + begins to revive, in proportion as that calamity subsides. Linens + are selling to great advantage, a cargo would now render 60 per + cent. profit, clear of all charges. + + Nov. 29. The deadly epidemy that has lately visited us, and which +163 at one period carried off above 100 each day, has now confined its + daily mortality to two or three; some days none. When, however, the + Arabs of Shedma, and the Shelluhs of Haha come to town, and bring + the clothes of their deceased relations for sale, the epidemy + increases to three, four, and five a day; then, in three or four + days, it declines again to its former number, one, two, or three. + We have reason to expect, that, before the vessels which we expect + from London shall arrive, the plague will have subsided entirely. + + Mogodor, Dec. 12. 1799. The plague or mortality of this town is now + reduced to three or four weekly. + + OBSERVATION. + + After the plague had subsided, a murrain attacked the cattle, and + great numbers of all kinds died; so that they became reduced in the + same proportion as the race of man had been reduced before. + + _Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson_. + + Gibraltar, 28th Oct. 1799. + + Dear Jackson; + + Within a few days of each other, I received your packets of the +164 21st of September, and 8th instant. Their inclosures are of course + taken care of. Your letter about Soke Assa was received, and sent + home to government ages ago. + + I never could understand the drift of the people either at Tangier + or Mogodor, in asserting that my report of the plague was + political. God knows, that our politics in Barbary are never + remarkable for refinement: they are, if any thing, rather too much + in the John Bull style; and the finesse they gave me such credit + for, was absolutely beyond my comprehension, as I never could + discover what advantage a genuine well-established plague in + Barbary could be to our country. Of its existence I had not the + shadow of doubt, for more than eight months before it was talked + of; and when Doctor Bell was going that way, I begged of him to be + particular in his enquiries, which he, as usual, neglected. When + John Salmon[124] was up, he was _very particular_, and _I_ of + course was laughed at. _Here_ I saw politics, and told all the + gentlemen, that when Salmon[125] arrived at Tariffa, then, and not + till then, we should have the plague in Barbary; and just so it + turned out. + + [Footnote 124: John Salmon was Spanish envoy to the emperor of + Marocco, and was at this time up at Fas, _i.e._ on his + embassy.] + + [Footnote 125: Arrived at Tariffa, and so secured his admission + into Spain on his return from his embassy.] +165 + I am confident, if my advice had been taken, the disease might have + been checked in the beginning; for it was almost three quarters of + a year confined to _old_ Fas. I wrote in the most pressing manner + to Ben Ottoman[126], who never believed me. A few days before he + was seized with it, he wrote me a melancholy letter for advice, and + pathetically lamented that he had not listened to me in time; and I + suppose that even Broussonet[127] believed me when he embarked. I + hope your opinion that it diminishes with you will prove well + founded; but I fear its ravages are only suspended by the great + heats; besides, you should recollect that people cannot die twice, + and with a population so diminished, you must not expect so many as + formerly on your daily dead-list. Mrs. M., who desires her + remembrance to you, is well, but barring plague, would rather be at + Tangier than Gibraltar; so would I. + + Ever truly thine, + + J. MATRA. + + [Footnote 126: The emperor's prime-minister, or _talb cadus_ at + that time.] + + [Footnote 127: Dr. Broussonet, French consul. This gentleman + was intendant of the botanical garden at Montpelier: he, with + another doctor embarked for Europe just as the plague began to + appear at Mogodor in the year 1799.] +166 + _Some Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated + West Barbary in 1799 and 1800, and to the Effects of which the + Author was an eye-witness._ + + From various circumstances and appearances, and from the character + of the epidemical distemper which raged lately in the south of + Spain, there is every reason to suppose, it was similar to that + distemper or plague which depopulated West Barbary; for, whether we + call it by the more reconcileable appellation of the epidemy, or + yellow fever, it was undoubtedly a plague, and a most destructive + one; for wherever it prevailed, it invariably carried off, in a few + months, one-half, or one-third, of the population. + + It does not appear how the plague originated in Fas in the year + 1799.[128] Some persons, who were there at the time it broke out, + have confidently ascribed it to infected merchandise imported into + that place from the East; whilst others, of equal veracity and + judgment, have not scrupled to ascribe it to the locusts which had + infested West Barbary during the seven preceding years, the + destruction of which was followed by the (_jedrie_) small-pox, +167 which pervaded the country, and was generally fatal. The _jedrie_ + is supposed to be the forerunner of this species of epidemy, as + appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, which gives an account of + the same disorder having carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants + of West Barbary about four centuries since. But however this + destructive epidemy originated, its leading features were novel, + and its consequences more dreadful than the common plague of + Turkey, or that of Syria, or Egypt. Let every one freely declare + his own sentiments about it; let him assign any credible account of + its rise, or the causes that introduced so terrible a scene. I + shall relate only what its symptoms were, what it actually was, and + how it terminated, having been an eye-witness of its dreadful + effects, and having seen and visited many who were afflicted, and + who were dying with it. + + [Footnote 128: See the Author's observations, in a letter to + Mr. Willis, in Gentleman's Magazine, February, 1805.] + + In the month of April, 1799, a dreadful plague, of a most + destructive nature, manifested itself in the city of Old Fas, which + soon after communicated itself to the new city. This unparalleled + calamity, carried off one or two the first day, three or four the + second day, six or eight the third day, and increasing + progressively, until the mortality amounted to two in the hundred + of the aggregate population, continuing _with unabating violence_, + ten, fifteen, or twenty days; being of longer duration in old than + in new towns; then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one +168 thousand a day to nine hundred, then to eight hundred, and so on + until it disappeared. Whatever recourse was had to medicine and to + physicians was unavailing; so that such expedients were at length + totally relinquished, and the people, overpowered by this terrible + scourge, lost all hopes of surviving it. + + Whilst it raged in the town of Mogodor, a small village, _Diabet_, + situated about two miles south-east of that place, remained + uninfected, although the communication was open between them: on + the _thirty-fourth day_, however, after its first appearance at + Mogodor, this village was discovered to be infected, and the + disorder raged with great violence, making dreadful havock among + the human species for _twenty-one_ days, carrying off, during that + period, one hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, + the original population of the village, before the plague visited + it; none died after this, and those who were infected, recovered in + the course of a month or two, some losing an eye, or the use of a + leg or an arm. + + Many similar circumstances might be here adduced relative to the + numerous and populous villages dispersed through the extensive + Shelluh province of Haha, all which shared a similar or a worse + fate. Travelling through this province shortly after the plague had + exhausted itself, I saw many uninhabited ruins, which I had before + witnessed as flourishing villages; on making enquiry concerning the +169 population of these dismal remains, I was informed that in one + village, which contained six hundred inhabitants, four persons only + had escaped the ravage. Other villages, which had contained four or + five hundred, had only seven or eight survivors left to relate the + calamities they had suffered. Families which had retired to the + country to avoid the infection, on returning to town, when all + infection had apparently ceased, were generally attacked, and died; + a singular instance of this kind happened at Mogodor, where, after + the mortality had subsided, a corps of troops arrived from the city + of Terodant, in the province of Suse, where the plague had been + raging, and had subsided; these troops, after remaining three days + at Mogodor, were attacked with the disease, and it raged + exclusively among them for about a month, during which it carried + off two-thirds of their original number, one hundred men; during + this interval the other inhabitants of the town were exempt from + the disorder, though these troops were not confined to any + particular quarter, many of them having had apartments in the + houses of the inhabitants of the town. + + The destruction of the human species in the province of Suse was + considerably greater than elsewhere; Terodant, formerly the + metropolis of a kingdom, but now that of Suse, lost, when the + infection was at its acme, about eight hundred each day; the +170 ruined, but still extensive city of Marocco[129], lost one thousand + each day; the populous cities of Old and New Fas diminished in + population twelve or fifteen hundred each day[130], insomuch, that + in these extensive cities, the mortality was so great, that the + living having not time to bury the dead, the bodies were deposited + or thrown altogether into large holes, which, when nearly full, + were covered over with earth. All regulations in matters of + sepulture before observed were now no longer regarded; things + sacred and things prophane had now lost their distinction, and + universal despair pervaded mankind. Young, healthy, and robust + persons of full stamina, were, for the most part, attacked first, + then women and children, and lastly, thin, sickly, emaciated, and + old people. + + [Footnote 129: I have been informed that there are still at + Marocco, apartments wherein the dead were placed; and that + after the whole family was swept away the doors were built up, + and remain so to this day.] + + [Footnote 130: There died, during the whole of the above + periods, in the city of Marocco, 50,000; in Fas, 65,000; in + Mogodor, 4500; and in Saffy, 5000; in all 124,500 souls!] + + After this violent and deadly calamity had subsided, we beheld a + general alteration in the fortunes and circumstances of men; we saw + persons who before the plague were common labourers, now in + possession of thousands, and keeping horses without knowing how to + ride them. Parties of this description were met wherever we went, +171 and the men of family called them in derision _el wuratu_, the + inheritors.[131] Provisions also became extremely cheap and + abundant; the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + there was now no one to own them; and the propensity to plunder, so + notoriously attached to the character of the Arab, as well as to + the Shelluh and Moor, was superseded by a conscientious regard to + justice, originating from a continual apprehension of dissolution, + and that the _el khere_[132], as the plague was now called, was a + judgment of the Omnipotent on the disobedience of man, and that it + behoved every individual to amend his conduct, as a preparation to + his departure for paradise. + + [Footnote 131: _Des gens parvenus_, as the French express it; + or upstarts.] + + [Footnote 132: The good, or benediction.] + + The expense of labour at the same time increased enormously[133], + and never was equality in the human species more conspicuous than + at this time; when corn was to be ground, or bread baked, both were + performed in the houses of the affluent, and prepared by + themselves, for the very few people whom the plague had spared, + were insufficient to administer to the wants of the rich and + independent, and they were accordingly compelled to work for + themselves, performing personally the menial offices of their + respective families. +172 + [Footnote 133: At this time I received from Marocco a caravan + of many camel-loads of bees-wax, in serrons containing 200 lbs. + each; I sent for workmen to place them one upon another, and + they demanded one dollar per serron for so moving them.] + + The country being now depopulated, and much of the territory + without owners, vast tribes of Arabs emigrated from their abodes in + the interior of Sahara, and took possession of the country + contiguous to the river Draha, as well as many districts in Suse; + and, in short, settling themselves, and pitching their tents + wherever they found a fertile country with little or no population. + + The symptoms of this plague varied in different patients, the + variety of age and constitution gave it a like variety of + appearance and character. Those who enjoyed perfect health were + suddenly seized with head-aches and inflammations; the tongue and + throat became of a vivid red, the breath was drawn with difficulty, + and was succeeded by sneezing and hoarseness; when once settled in + the stomach, it excited vomitings of black bile, attended with + excessive torture, weakness, hiccough, and convulsion. Some were + seized with sudden shivering, or delirium, and had a sensation of + such intense inward heat, that they threw off their clothes, and + would have walked about naked in quest of water wherein to plunge + themselves. Cold water was eagerly resorted to by the unwary and + imprudent, and proved fatal to those who indulged in its momentary + relief. Some had one, two, or more buboes, which formed themselves, +173 and became often as large as a walnut, in the course of a day; + others had a similar number of carbuncles; others had both buboes + and carbuncles, which generally appeared in the groin, under the + arm, or near the breast. Those who were affected[134] with a + shivering, having no buboe, carbuncle, spots, or any other exterior + disfiguration, were invariably carried off in less than twenty-four + hours, and the body of the deceased became quickly putrified, so + that it was indispensably necessary to bury it a few hours after + dissolution. It is remarkable, that the birds of the air fled away + from the abode of men, for none were to be seen during this +174 calamitous period; the hynas, on the contrary, visited the + cemeteries, and sought the dead bodies to devour them. I + recommended Mr. Baldwin's[135] invaluable remedy of olive oil, + applied according to his directions; several Jews, and some + Muselmin[136], were induced to try it, and I was afterwards visited + by many, to whom I had recommended it, and had given them written + directions in Arabic how to apply it: and I do not know any + instance of its failing when persevered in, even after the + infection had manifested itself. + + [Footnote 134: _M'drob_ is an idiom in the Arabic language + somewhat difficult to render into English; it is well known + that the Muhamedans are predestinarians, and that they believe + in the existence of spirits, devils, &c.; their idea of the + plague is, that it is a good or blessing sent from God to clear + the world of a superfluous population--that no medicine or + precaution can cure or prevent it; that every one who is to be + a victim to it is (_mktube_) recorded in the Book of Fate; that + there are certain Genii who preside over the fate of men, and + who sometimes discover themselves in various forms, having + often legs similar to those of fowls: that these Genii are + armed with arrows: that when a person is attacked by the + plague, which is called in Arabic _l'amer_, or the destiny or + decree, he is shot by one of these Genii, and the sensation of + the invisible wound is similar to that from a musquet-ball; + hence the universal application of _M'drob_ to a person + afflicted with the plague, i.e. he is shot; and if he die, + _ufah ameruh_, his destiny is completed or terminated (in this + world). I scarcely ever yet saw the Muselman who did not affirm + that he had at some time of his life seen these Genii; and they + often appear, they say, in rivers.] + + [Footnote 135: Late British Consul in Egypt.] + + [Footnote 136: Muselman, sing.: Muselmin. plur.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy which made its appearance at Cadiz, + and all along the southern shores of Spain, immediately as the + plague was subsiding in West Barbary, was the same disorder with + the one above described, suffering, after its passage to a + Christian country, some variation, originating from the different + modes of living, and other circumstances; for nothing can be more + opposite than the food, dress, customs, and manners of Muhamedans + and Christians, notwithstanding the approximation of Spain to + Marocco. We have been credibly informed, that it was communicated + originally to Spain, by two infected persons, who went from Tangier + to Estapona, a small village on the opposite shore; who, after + eluding the vigilance of the guards, reached Cadiz. We have also + been assured that it was communicated by some infected persons who +175 landed in Spain, from a vessel that had loaded produce at L'Araiche + in West Barbary. Another account was, that a Spanish privateer, + which had occasion to land its crew for the purpose of procuring + water in some part of West Barbary, caught the infection from + communicating with the natives, and afterwards proceeding to Cadiz, + and spread it in that town and the adjacent country. + + It should be observed, for the information of those who may be + desirous of investigating the nature of this extraordinary + distemper, that, from its character and its symptoms, approximating + to the peculiar plague, which (according to the before mentioned + Arabic record) ravaged and depopulated West Barbary four centuries + since, the Arabs and Moors were of opinion it would subside after + the first year, and not appear again the next, as the Egyptian + plague does; and agreeably to this opinion, it did not re-appear + the second year: neither did St. John's day, or that season, affect + its virulence; but about that period there prevails along the coast + of West Barbary, a trade-wind, which, beginning to blow in the + month of May, continues throughout the months of June, July, and + August, with little intermission. It was apprehended that the + influence of this trade-wind, added to the superstitious opinion of + the plague ceasing on St. John's day, would stop, or at least + sensibly diminish the mortality; but no such thing happened: the + wind did set in, as it invariably does, about St. John's day; the +176 disorder, however, increased at that period, rather than + diminished. Some persons were of opinion, that the infection + maintained its virulence till the last; that the decrease of + mortality did not originate from a decrease of the _miasma_, but + from a decrease of population, and a consequent want of subjects to + prey upon; and this indeed is a plausible idea; but admitting it to + be just, how are we to account for the almost invariable fatality + of the disorder, when at its height, and the comparative innocence + of it when on the decline? for _then_, the chance to those who had + it, was, that they would recover and survive the malady. + + The old men seemed to indulge in a superstitious tradition, that + when this peculiar kind of epidemy attacks a country, it does not + return or continue for three or more years, but disappears + altogether, (after the first year,) and is followed the seventh + year by contagious rheums and expectoration, the violence of which + lasts from three to seven days, but is not fatal. Whether this + opinion be in general founded in truth I cannot determine; but in + the spring of the year 1806, which was the seventh year from the + appearance of the plague at Fas in 1799, a species of influenza + pervaded the whole country; the patient going to bed well, and, on + rising in the morning, a thick phlegm was expectorated, accompanied + by a distressing rheum, or cold in the head, with a cough, which + quickly reduced those affected to extreme weakness, but was seldom + fatal, continuing from three to seven days, with more or less + violence, and then gradually disappearing. +177 + During the plague at Mogodor, the European merchants shut + themselves up in their respective houses, as is the practice in the + Levant; I did not take this precaution, but occasionally rode out + to take exercise on horseback. Riding one day out of the town, I + met the Governor's brother, who asked me where I was going, when + every other European was shut up? "To the garden," I + answered.--"And are you not aware that the garden and the adjacent + country is full of (_Jinune_) departed souls, who are busy in + smiting with the plague every one they meet?" I could not help + smiling, but told him, that I trusted to God only, who would not + allow any of the _Jinune_ to smite me unless it were his sovereign + will, and that if it were, he could effect it without the agency of + _Jinune_. On my return to town in the evening, the beach, from the + town-gate to the sanctuary of Seedi,[137] Mogodole was covered with + biers. My daily observations convinced me that the epidemy was not + caught by approach, unless that approach was accompanied by an + inhaling of the breath, or by touching the infected person; I + therefore had a separation made across the gallery, inside of my + house, between the kitchen and dining parlour, of the width of + three feet, which is sufficiently wide to prevent the inhaling the +178 breath of a person. From this partition or table of separation I + took the dishes, and after dinner returned them to the same place, + suffering none of the servants to come near me; and in the + accounting-house, I had a partition made to prevent the too near + approach of any person who might call on business; and this + precaution I firmly believe to be all that is necessary, added to + that of receiving money through vinegar, and taking care not to + touch or smell infectious substances. + + [Footnote 137: A sanctuary a mile south-east of the town of + Mogodor, from whence, the town receives its name.] + + Fear had an extraordinary effect in disposing the body to receive + the infection; and those who were subject thereto, invariably + caught the malady, which was for the most part fatal. At the + breaking out of the plague at Mogodor, there were two medical men, + an Italian and a Frenchman, the latter, a man of science, a great + botanist, and of an acute discrimination; they, however, did not + remain, but took the first opportunity of leaving the place for + Teneriffe, so that the few Europeans had no expectation of any + medical assistance except that of the natives. Plaisters of gum + ammoniac, and the juice of the leaves of the _opuntia_, or _kermuse + ensarrah_, _i.e._ prickly pear, were universally applied to the + carbuncles, as well as to the buboes, which quickly brought them to + suppuration: many of the people of property took copious draughts + of coffee and Peruvian bark. The _Vinaigre de quatre voleurs_, was +179 used by many, also camphor, smoking tobacco, or fumigations of gum + Sandrac; straw was also burned by some, who were of opinion, that + any thing which produced abundance of smoke, was sufficient to + purify the air of pestilential effluvia. + + During the existence of the plague, I had been in the chambers of + men on their death-bed: I had had Europeans at my table, who were + infected, as well as Moors, who actually had buboes on them; I took + no other precaution than that of separation, carefully avoiding to + touch the hand, or inhale the breath; and, notwithstanding what may + have been said, I am decidedly of opinion that the plague, at least + this peculiar species of it, is not produced by any infectious + principle in the atmosphere, but caught solely by touching infected + substances, or inhaling the breath of those who are diseased; and + that it must not be confounded with the common plague of Egypt, or + Constantinople, being a malady of a much more desperate and + destructive kind. It has been said, by persons who have discussed + the nature and character of the plague, that the cultivation of a + country, the draining of the lands, and other agricultural + improvements, tend to eradicate or diminish it; but, at the same + time, we have seen countries depopulated where there was no morass, + or stagnate water for many days' journey, nor even a tree to impede + the current of air, or a town, nor any thing but encampments of + Arabs, who procured water from wells of a great depth, and +180 inhabited plains so extensive and uniform, that they resemble the + sea, and are so similar in appearance after, as well as before + sun-rise, that if the eye could abstract itself from the spot + immediately surrounding the spectator, it could not be ascertained + whether it were sea or land. + + I shall now subjoin a few cases for the further elucidation of this + distemper, hoping that the medical reader will pardon any + inaccuracy originating from my not being a professional man. + + Case I.--One afternoon, I went into the kitchen, and saw the cook + making the bread; he appeared in good health and spirits; I + afterwards went into the adjoining parlour, and took up a book to + read; in half an hour the same man came to the door of the room, + with his eyes starting from his head, and his bed-clothes, &c. in + his hands, saying, "open the gate for me, for I am (_m'dorb_) + smitten." I was astonished at the sudden transition, and desired + him to go out, and I would follow and shut the gate. The next + morning he sent his wife out on an errand, and got out of bed, and + came to the gate half-dressed, saying that he was quite recovered, + and desired I would let him in. I did not, however, think it safe + to admit him, but told him to go back to his house for a few days, + until he should be able to ascertain that he was quite well; he + accordingly returned to his apartments, but expired that evening, + and before day-break his body was in such a state, that his feet +181 were actually putrified. His wife, by attending on him, caught the + infection, having a carbuncle, and also buboes, and was confined + two months before she recovered. + + Case II.--L'Hage Hamed O Bryhim, the old governor of Mogodor, had + twelve or more children, and four wives, who were all attacked, and + died (except only one young wife); he attended them successively to + the grave, and notwithstanding that he assisted in performing the + religious ceremony of washing the body, he never himself caught the + infection; he lived some years afterwards, and out of the whole + household, consisting of wives, concubines, children, and slaves, + he had but one person left, which was the before-mentioned young + wife: this lady, however, had received the infection, and was + confined some time before she recovered. + + Case. III.--Hamed ben A---- was smitten with the plague, which he + compared to the sensation of two musket balls fired at him, one in + each thigh; a giddiness and delirium succeeded, and immediately + afterwards a green vomiting, and he fell senseless to the ground; a + short time afterwards, on the two places where he had felt as if + shot, biles or buboes formed, and on suppurating, discharged a + foetid black pus; a (_jimmera_) carbuncle on the joint of the arm + near the elbow was full of thin ichor, contained in an elevated + skin, surrounded by a burning red colour; after three months' + confinement, being reduced to a skeleton, the disorder appeared to +182 have exhausted itself, and he began to recover his strength, which + in another month was fully reestablished. It was an observation + founded on daily experience, during the prevalence of this + disorder, that those who were attacked with a nausea at the + stomach, and a subsequent vomiting of green or yellow bile, + recovered after suffering in various degrees, and that those who + were affected with giddiness, or delirium, followed by a discharge + or vomiting of black bile, invariably died after lingering one, + two, or three days, their bodies being covered with small black + spots similar to grains of gun-powder; in this state, however, they + possessed their intellects, and spoke rationally till their + dissolution. + + When the constitution was not disposed, or had not vigour enough to + throw the miasma to the surface in the form of biles, buboes, + carbuncles, or blackish spots, the virulence is supposed to have + operated inwardly, or on the vital parts, and the patient died in + less than twenty-four hours, without any exterior disfiguration. + + Case IV.--It was reported that the Sultan had the plague twice + during the season, as many others had; so that the idea of its + attacking like the small-pox, a person but once in his life, is + refuted: the Sultan was cured by large doses of Peruvian bark + frequently repeated, and it was said that he found such infinite + benefit from it, that he advised his brothers never to travel + without having a good supply. The Emperor, since the plague, always + has by him a sufficient quantity of quill bark to supply his + emergency. +183 + Case V.--H.L. was smitten with the plague, which affected him by a + pain similar to that of a long needle (as he expressed himself) + repeatedly plunged into his groin. In an hour or two afterwards, a + (_jimmera_) carbuncle appeared in the groin, which continued + enlarging three days, at the expiration of which period he could + neither support the pain, nor conceal his sensations; he laid + himself down on a couch; an Arabian doctor, applied to the + carbuncles the testicles of a ram cut in half, whilst the vital + warmth was still in them; the carbuncle on the third day was + encreased to the size of a small orange; the before-mentioned + remedy was daily applied during thirty days, after which he + resorted to cataplasms of the juice of the (_opuntia_) prickly + pear-tree, (_feshook_) gum ammoniac, and (_zite el aud_) oil of + olives, of each one-third; this was intended to promote + suppuration, which was soon effected; there remained after the + suppuration a large vacuity, which was daily filled with fine hemp + dipped in honey; by means of this application the wound filled up, + and the whole was well in thirty-nine days. + + Case VI.--El H--t--e, a trading Jew of Mogodor, was sorely + afflicted; he called upon me, and requested some remedy; I advised + him to use oil of olives, and having Mr. Baldwin's mode of +184 administering it[138], I transcribed it in the Arabic language, and + gave it to him; he followed the prescription, and assured me, about + six weeks afterwards, that (with the blessing of God) he had + preserved his life by that remedy only; he said, that after having + been anointed with oil, his skin became harsh and dry like the + scales of a fish, but that in half an hour more, a profuse + perspiration came on, and continued for another half hour, after + which he experienced relief: this he repeated forty days, when, he + was quite recovered. + + [Footnote 138: Mr. Baldwin observed, that, whilst the plague + ravaged Egypt, the dealers in oil were not affected with the + epidemy; and he accordingly recommended people to anoint + themselves with oil every day as a remedy.] + + Case VII.--Moh--m'd ben A---- fell suddenly down in the street; he + was conveyed home; three carbuncles and five buboes appeared soon + after in his groin, under the joint of his knee, and arm-pits, and + inside the elbow; he died in three hours after the attack. + + Case VIII.--L.R. was suddenly smitten with this dreadful calamity, + whilst looking over some Marocco leather; he fell instantaneously; + afterwards, when he had recovered his senses, he described the + sensation as that of the pricking of needles, at every part wherein + the carbuncles afterwards appeared: he died the same day in + defiance of medicine. + + Case IX.--Mr. Pacifico, a merchant, was attacked, and felt a + pricking pain down the inside of the thick part of the thigh, near + the sinews; he was obliged to go to bed. I visited him the next + day, and was going to approach him, but he exclaimed, "Do not come +185 near for although I know I have not the prevailing distemper, yet + your friends, if you touch me, may persuade you otherwise, and that + might alarm you; I shall, I hope, be well in a few days." I took + the hint of Don Pedro de Victoria, a Spanish gentleman, who was in + the room, who, offering me a sagar, I smoked it, and then departed; + the next day the patient died. He was attended during his illness + by the philanthropic Monsieur Soubremont, who did not stir from his + bed-side till he expired; but after exposing himself in this + manner, escaped the infection, which proceeded, as he thought, from + his constantly having a pipe in his mouth. + + Case X.--Two of the principal Jews of the town giving themselves + up, and having no hope, were willing to employ the remainder of + their lives in affording assistance to the dying and the dead, by + washing the bodies and interring them; this business they performed + during thirty or forty days, during all which time they were not + attacked: when the plague had nearly subsided, and they began again + to cherish hopes of surviving the calamity, they were both smitten, + but after a few days' illness recovered, and are now living. + + From this last case, as well as from many others similar, but too + numerous here to recapitulate, it appears that the human + constitution requires a certain miasma, to prepare it to receive + the pestilential infection. + + _General Observation._--When the carbuncles or buboes appeared to +186 have a blackish rim round their base, the case of that patient was + desperate, and invariably fatal. Sometimes the whole body was + covered with black spots like partridge-shot; such patients always + fell victims to the disorder, and those who felt the blow + internally, showing no external disfiguration, seldom survived more + than a few hours. + + The plague appears to visit this country about once in every twenty + years[139]: the last visitation was in 1799 and 1800, being more + fatal than any ever before known. + + [Footnote 139: This opinion is confirmed by the plague, being + now (1820) in Marocco just twenty years since the last plague. + 65,000 persons have been lately carried off by this disease in + the cities of Old and New Fas.] + + * * * * * + + _Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in + West Barbary, and which was imported from Egypt; communicated by + the Author to the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, + Science, and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great + Britain, No, 15, published in October, 1819._ + + His Majesty's ship, which was lying in the port of Alexandria, when + Colonel Fitzclarence passed through Egypt, from India, on his way + to England, convoyed to Tangier a vessel which had on board two of + the sons of Muley Soliman, emperor of Marocco; on their arrival at + Tangier, the princes immediately landed and proceeded to their + father at Fas; but it was discovered by the governor or alkaid of +187 Tangier, that during the passage some persons had died; and + accordingly the alkaid would not suffer any of the passengers to + land, except the princes, until he should have received orders from + the Emperor how to act; he accordingly wrote to Fas, for the + imperial orders, and in the mean time the princes arrived, and + presented themselves to the emperor: the latter wrote to the + alkaid, that as the princes had been suffered to land, it would be + unjust to prohibit the other passengers from coming ashore also. He + therefore ordered the alkaid to suffer all the passengers, together + with their baggage, to be landed, and soon afterwards the plague + appeared at Fas, and at Tangier. Thus the contagion which is now + ravaging West Barbary was imported from Egypt. It does not appear + that the mortality is, or has been, during its acme at Fas, any + thing comparable to what it was during the plague that ravaged this + country in 1799,[140] and which carried off more than two-thirds of + the population of the empire. + + [Footnote 140: It has been asserted by a physician who has + lately written, _Observations on contagion, as it relates to + the plague and other epidemical diseases_, reviewed in article + 20th of the _British Review_, and _London Critical Journal_, + published in May last, that I have asserted that the deaths + during the prevalence of that disorder in West Barbary in 1799, + amounted to 124,500; but on a reference to my account of + Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c., 2d or 3d edition, note, page 174, it + will appear, that this mortality was that of two cities, and + two sea-ports only, viz., the cities of Fas and Marocco, and + the ports of Saffy and Mogodor; the mortality, however, was + equally great in the imperial cities of Mequinas and Terodant, + and in the sea-port towns of Tetuan, Tangier, Arzilla, + L'Araich, Salee, Rabat, Dar el Bieda, Azamore, Mazagan, and + Santa Cruz, or Agadeer; and considerably greater among the + populous and numerous encampments of the Arabs, throughout the + various provinces of the empire; not to mention the incredible + mortality in the castles, towns, and other walled habitations + of the Shelluh province of Haha, the first province, travelling + from the shores of the Mediterranean, where the people live in + walled habitations, the seaports excepted.] +188 + Whence proceeds this difference? Is it a different species of + plague, and not so deadly a contagion? Or is it because the remedy + of _olive_ oil, applied and recommended generally by me, and by + some other Europeans during the plague of 1799, is now made public + and generally administered? This is an inquiry well deserving the + attention of scientific men. And His Majesty's ministers might + procure the information from the British consul at Tangier, or from + the governor of Gibraltar: perhaps the truth is, that the contagion + is of a more mild character. + + With regard to the remedy of olive oil applied[141] internally, I + should, myself, be disposed to doubt its efficacy unless M. Colao, +189 the Portuguese consul at L'Araich, is competent to declare, _from + his own knowledge and experience_, that this remedy has been + administered effectually by him to persons having the plague, who + did not _also use the friction with oil_. I say, till this can be + ascertained, I think the remedy of oil applied _externally_, should + not be forsaken; as _it has been proved during the plague in + Africa, in 1799, to be infallible_, and therefore indispensable to + people whose vocation may lead them to associate with, or to touch + or bury the infected. For the rest, such persons as are not + compelled to associate with the infected, may effectually avoid the + contagion, however violent and deadly it may be, by avoiding + contact. I am so perfectly convinced of this fact, from the + experience and observation I have made during my residence at + Mogodor, whilst the plague raged there in 1799, that I would not + object to go to any country, although it were rotten with the + plague, provided my going would benefit mankind, or serve any + useful purpose; and I would use no fumigation, or any other remedy + but what I actually used at Mogodor in 1799. I am so convinced from + my own repeated and daily experience, that the most deadly plague + is as easy to be avoided BY STRICTLY ADHERING TO THE PRINCIPLE OF + AVOIDING PERSONAL CONTACT AND INHALATION, AND THE CONTACT OF + INFECTIOUS SUBSTANCES, that I would ride or walk through the most +190 populous and deeply-infected city, as I have done before, without + any other precaution than that of a segar in my mouth, when, by + avoiding contact and inhalation, I should most assuredly be free + from the danger of infection!! + + [Footnote 141: Mr. Colao, having lately observed that oil was + used externally to anoint the body, as a preservative against + the plague; conceived the idea of administering this simple + remedy _internally_ to persons already infected; numerous + experiments were made by this gentleman, who administered from + four to eight oz. olive oil at a dose; and out of 300 + individuals already infected, who resorted to this remedy, only + twelve died.] + + When these precautions are strictly observed, I maintain, (in + opposition to all the theoretical dogmas that have lately been + propagated) that there is no more danger of infection with the + plague, than there is of infection from any common cold or rheum. + +191 + + JOURNEY FROM TANGIER TO RABAT + _THROUGH THE PLAINS OF SEBOO_, + + + + + To accompany Dr. Bell, in Company with the Prince Muley Teib and an + Army of Cavalry. + + _Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. + Bell.--Description of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of + M'sharrah Rummellah, an incomparable fine and productive + Country.--The Cavalry of the Amorites,--their unique Observations + on Dr. Bell.--their mean Opinion of his Art, because he could not + cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on Rafts of inflated + Skins.--Spacious Tent of Goat's Hair erected for the Sheik, and + appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the + magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian + Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these + Plains.--Matamores, what they are.--Mode of Reaping.--The Prince + presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his + Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and + the Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor._ + + I happened to be at Tangier when the (_shereef_) prince Muley Teib + was collecting an army to join that of the emperor, which was on + the banks of the river Morbeya, (see the map of West Barbary, p. + 55,) in Shawiya. Doctor Bell, who had then recently arrived from + Gibraltar, to attend the prince, whose lungs were affected, was to +192 accompany his Royal Highness; and, as I had nothing to detain me in + Tangier, and was going to Rabat, I engaged to accompany the doctor, + and offered to officiate as interpreter between him and the prince + till our arrival at Rabat; after which I should leave him, and + proceed to Mogodor. The Doctor readily assented to my proposition, + because it is considered more respectable in this country, where + the Jews are reprobated and despised, to have for an interpreter a + Christian; the prince also, when he heard that I had thus offered + my services, expressed himself much gratified, and I received a + very polite message from him. The next day we started from Tangier, + in the morning at ten o'clock. The army halted east of Arzilla, in + the plains: the prince sat down under the shade of a tree to + dinner, Dr. Bell and myself under another tree, about 100 yards + distant. The Prince sent us a capon stewed _-la-mauresque_ with + saffron, the exquisite flavour of which proved that he had an + excellent cook with him. We departed in half an hour; and the tents + were pitched at sunset, in a campaign country, between Arzilla and + L'Araich. The Ait-Amor or Amorites who formed a part of this army, + a wild, uncontrolled race of Berebbers, saw the attention that was + paid by the shereef to the doctor, and after dinner they were + determined to see what sort of a fellow this doctor was, whom the + shereef treated so familiarly. They galloped their high-mettled + horses up to the doctor; and stopping short to examine him, made a +193 reflection on him and returned. The doctor observed the wild and + tattered appearance of these excellent horsemen. There was nothing + evil-minded in them; but their observations were remarkable. The + Doctor wore powder, a custom unknown in this country: one party + would say, "He has got lime in his head to kill the vermin;" + another would observe that "He was old or grey-headed." The Doctor + was fond of his bottle, and some said _skurren bel akkaran_, i.e. + "The[142] son of a cuckold is drunk." Others would bawl out, _Wa + Tebeeb washka't dowie elmoot_, i.e. "O, doctor, canst thou cure + death?" To which he replied, "No."--"Then," returned they, "thou + art no doctor!" On the following morning at sun-rise we proceeded, + and reached L'Araich at twelve o'clock; we did not enter the town, + but dined in the plains, and proceeding afterwards out of the main + road, we directed our course south-east, till we reached a most + beautiful and very extensive plain, called M'sharrah Rummellah. + This plain was covered with numerous and immense flocks of sheep + and horned cattle, and is many times more extensive than Salisbury + plain. We pitched our tents near a very extensive and populous + douar of Arabs. We departed the next morning at sun-rise, and + reached the plains of the river Seboo about two o'clock in the + afternoon; which plains are a continuation of those of M'sharrah +194 Rummellah; the army were engaged the remaining part of the day and + the whole night crossing the river Seboo, on rafts made of inflated + cow-hides, covered with planks and straw. The river is here about + twenty yards wide, but very deep and rapid; the Arabs had a long + and spacious sheik's tent pitched for the reception of the prince, + about forty feet long and fifteen wide, somewhat similar to the + hull of a ship reversed, having the long side open to the sun. + These tents are the palace of the sheik of the Arabs, and are + erected on great occasions only, such as that of the emperor, or a + prince passing through their territory. The plains of M'sharrah + Rummellah are one hundred and fifty British miles in circumference, + perfectly flat, without a stone, a tree, a hedge, or a ditch; with + the majestic river Seboo passing through the centre of the plain. + The soil of this territory, which, in the hands of Europeans, might + be made a terrestrial paradise, is a rich, productive, decomposed + vegetable earth, which extends, as we perceived from various + chasms, to the depth of several feet from the surface. It produces + incredible quantities of the finest wheat, of a hard grain, very + large and long, clear as amber, and yielding a prodigious increase + of flour, so that a saa of wheat[143] produces a saa and a sixth of +195 flour. The prince, Muley Teeb, seated on an eminence in this + spacious tent, resembled what we should imagine the patriarch + Abraham to have been, entertaining his friends; or Saul upon his + throne, with his javelin in his hand. He had twelve lanciers, six + on each side of him in a row, standing with their lances erect, the + Prince having one in his hand. It appears that this is the Arabian + etiquette; and the Arabs appeared much gratified that the prince + had personified their sheik, with all the paraphernalia of royalty. + His Royal Highness whose mind seemed moved with the beauty of this + country, sent for the Doctor and myself, and asked us if we had + ever seen such a country before. We frankly confessed we had not. + The prince smiled, and said, that the (_sehell_) plain we were on, + although extremely populous, and full of douars, could grow + seventeen times as much corn as the inhabitants could consume; that + there was then corn enough in the matamores[144] of this plain, to + supply (_El garb kamel_) the whole of El garb, i.e. the country + north of the river Morbeya.[145] + + [Footnote 142: Intoxication is a damnable vice with these + people; and when they remark drunkenness, they invariably add + an opprobrium to the observation.] + + [Footnote 143: A saa of wheat is little less than two + Winchester bushels. The wheat is very heavy, and this measure + weighs 100 lb., equal to 119 lb. English.] + + [Footnote 144: The matamores are subterraneous depositories for + corn, in which they preserve the wheat sound and good thirty + years; but when a matamore is once opened, it is expedient to + consume the corn immediately, otherwise it contracts what is + called the matamore twang. These depositories are indispensable + in countries exposed to drought, scarcity, or locusts, and + _should be adopted in our colony of South Africa_. The art of + constructing them is very peculiar, and I devoted some time in + learning it.] + + [Footnote 145: See the map of West Barbary.] +196 + We took our leave of the Prince, who appeared much gratified with + the hospitable entertainment of the Arabs, and with their + patriarchal style of living, and sent us an enormous dish of + cuscasoe, coloured with saffron. + + Encamped in the centre of this plain, when the sun had set, and the + twilight came on, we could have imagined ourselves in the midst of + the ocean. Not a cloud was in the sky, nor a hill on the land, to + intercept the uniformity of the horizon; the moon shone so bright, + that we could read by its light, and the universal novelty of the + scene resembled enchantment. + + On this rich land they use no dung: they reap the corn about a foot + from the ground, and burn the stubble. The produce is greater even + than that of the _new-dyke land_, on the banks of the river Ems, in + North Holland. The allotments of land are ascertained by a large + stone, placed at each corner of the square, when the reapers reach + these stones, they desist from proceeding or reaping the corn of + other proprietors. We rose early in the morning, and found the air + of this terrestrial paradise strongly perfumed with millions of + odoriferous flowers, that were growing spontaneously throughout the + plains. Walking with Dr. Bell through the Prince's camp, we saw a + beautiful grey horse. The doctor admired it. I recommended him to + ask the Prince for it, he was not acquainted with the customs of +197 this country, and ridiculed my observation. "If you wish to have + that horse, Doctor," said I, "I will engage that the Prince will + get it for you. I represented immediately to His Royal Highness, + that the Doctor had taken a liking to the horse, and would wish to + buy it. Not buy it," said the Prince; "he will receive it as a + present from me. Tell him, he deserves seven horses for the benefit + he has done me: all doctors that I have heretofore had have taken + twenty-four hours to give me ease; he relieves me in one. Tell him + so," said the prince, "and that he (_massab ala genibuna_) is in + the number of my dearest friends. (_e jeek elkhere attibib u + asselem_), Good be with you, doctor, and peace be with you." Thus + ended the negociation for the horse. I found afterwards that it + belonged to a sheik of the Arab province of Beni Hassen, who + regretted parting with it, but the Prince gave him the value of it, + and much courtesy withal. We struck our tents next morning at + eleven o'clock, and, travelling southward, the Prince received an + express from the Emperor to join his imperial army forthwith: + accordingly the Prince and his doctor departed south-east, and I + took leave of them, and pursued my journey to Rabat. + +198 + + OF + THE EXCAVATED RESIDENCES + OF THE + INHABITANTS OF ATLAS: + THE + _ACEPHALI, HEL SHUAL, AND HEL ELKILLEB:_ + + + + + _The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System + of solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous + Company; beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to + Discovery, the Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, + indispensable to the Conversion of the native Negroes to + Christianity._ + + The inhabitants of the snowy or upper regions of the Atlas live, + during the months of November, December, January, February, and + half of March, in caves or excavations in the mountains; the snow + then disappears, and they begin to cultivate the earth. + + I have repeatedly heard reports of the (_Helel Killeb_,[146]) + dog-faced race; of the (_Hel Shual_,) tailed race; and of the race +199 having one eye,[147] and that in the breast. It is extremely + difficult to ascertain the origin of these reports, which are so + involved in metaphor that the signification is not intelligible to + Europeans; their existence is not doubted, however, in Africa. Of + the _Hel El Killeb_ some ignorant people affirm that the Almighty + transformed one of the tribes of the Jews into these people, and + that these are their descendants; others report them to be a + mongrel breed, between the human and ape species; their strength is + said to be very great. The Africans assert with considerable + confidence, which is corroborated, that the Hel Shual have a tail + half a cubit long; that they inhabit a district in the Desert at an + immense distance south-east of Marocco; that the Hel El Killeb[148] +200 are in a similar direction; that the latter are diminutive, being + about two or three cubits[149] in height; that they exclaim _bak, + bak, bak_, and that they have a few articulate sounds, which they + mutually understand among themselves; that they are extremely swift + of foot, and run as fast as horses. The Arimaspi of Herodotus are + called by the Arabs _Hel Ferdie_, these are represented by the + Arabs of the Desert as living at the foot of the lofty mountains of + the Moon, near Abyssinia: the male and female are equally without + hair on their head, having large chins and nostrils, like the ape + species; they are said to have a language of their own; their + costume is a _jelabea_,[150] and a belt, without shoes or head + dress; their country is said to abound in gold. It is "a + consummation devoutly to be wished," that our knowledge of Africa + should increase so as to enable us to unravel the mystery of these + doubtful reports, to ascertain the degree of credit that is due to + these mysterious traditions. These desiderata, however, can hardly +201 be expected, whilst the present injudicious plans for the discovery + of Africa are persevered in. We must, if we desire to discover + effectually the hidden recesses and reported wonders of this + continent, adopt plans and schemes very different from any that + have hitherto been suggested; we must adopt _a grand system upon an + extensive scale_, a system directed and moved by a person competent + to so great an undertaking. The head or director of such an + expedition should be master of the general travelling and + trafficking language of Africa, the modern Arabic: he should + moreover be acquainted with the character of the people, their + habits, modes of life, religious prejudices, and fanaticism. A + grand plan, thus directed, could hardly fail to secure the command + of the commerce of Africa to Great Britain. Then the discovery of + the inmost recesses would follow the path of commerce, and that + continent, which has baffled the researches of the moderns as well + as of the ancients, would lay open its treasures to modern Europe, + and civilisation would be the natural result. Then would be the + period to attempt the conversion of the Negroes to Christianity; + and the standard of peace and good will towards men might be + successfully planted on the banks of the _Nile El Kabeer_, or _Nile + Assudan_, the Great Nile, or Nile of Sudan, or Nigritia, commonly + called the Niger. + + [Footnote 146: Apollonius Rhodius calls these people [Greek: + mikuges] or half-dogs.] + + [Footnote 147: The ingenious author of Philosophic Researches + concerning the Americans, speaking of a race which appear to + resemble the Acephali of Herodotus, or the race of men having + one eye, and that in their chest, says, "There is in Canibar a + race of savages who have hardly any neck, and whose shoulders + reach up to their ears. This monstrous appearance is + artificial, and to give it to their children they put enormous + weights upon their heads, so as to make the vertebr of the + neck enter, if we may so say, the channel bone, (clavicule.) + These barbarians, from a distance, seem to have their mouth in + the breast; and might well enough, in ignorant and enthusiastic + travellers, serve to revive the fable of the Acephali, or men + without heads." (See Larcher's Notes on Herodotus's Melpomene, + cap. 191.)--Saint Augustin, whose veracity is scarcely to be + doubted, declared in his thirty-third sermon, intituled _"A ses + Frres dans le Dsert"--Avoir vu en Ethiopie des hommes et des + femmes sans tte avec des grands yeux sur le poitrine._] + + [Footnote 148: We have heard of a pig-faced lady; if there is + such a person, there might also be a pig-faced gentleman, and + these might generate a pig-faced race; and if a pig-faced race, + why not a dog-faced race?] + + [Footnote 149: Seven Cubits make four English yards.] + + [Footnote 150: The best description I can give of a _jelabea_ + is this: Take a large sack and cut a hole in the bottom, big + enough to admit the head; then cut the two bottom corners off + to admit the arms: this garment will then resemble the + _jelabea_.] + +202 + + CAUTIONS + TO BE USED IN TRAVELLING. + + + + + _Danger of travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself + accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling + between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of + Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of living among the Arabs; Food, + Clothing, domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs + calculated by the Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are + good Figures, and have personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; + poetical Geniuses; Dancing and Amusements; Musical Instruments; + their Manners are courteous_. + + Travellers in West and South Barbary should never be out after + sun-set: it is not safe to travel in many parts of the country + during the night. The emperor holds himself accountable for thefts + committed between the rising and the setting sun; so that, if a + traveller be robbed of property, the value should be ascertained, + and an application being made to the bashaw of the province where + the robbery was committed it will be restored forthwith; but if + there be any demur, an application should be made to the Emperor, + personally, if possible, but if not, by letter; and the district is + immediately ordered to pay double the loss, one half to the person + robbed, and the other half to the Imperial treasury. +203 + These robberies, however, rarely occur; for the bashaws of the + provinces and the alkaids of the douars feel it a duty incumbent on + them to protect all travellers and strangers; so that they would, + in the event of a robbery being committed, expose themselves to a + severe reprimand from the emperor, and an intimation that they + were, by suffering such irregularity, incompetent to their + situation, and would be liable to a heavy fine, or a discharge from + their office, for _neglect of vigilance_, which, in this country, + is considered _very reprehensible_. + + Travelling through the province of Suse, I once witnessed the + emigration of an extensive douar of Arabs, amounting to about 200 + families. They were just leaving their habitation, where they had + been encamped only a few months: it was a fine grazing country; the + camels, horses, mules, asses, oxen and cows, were all laden with + the tents and baggage of these wanderers. On enquiring the cause of + this emigration, I was told that the inhabitants were infested with + musquitoes and fleas to such a degree, that they had all + unanimously resolved to emigrate to another place, which they had + fixed upon, and that they would reach it by night. These wandering + Arabs, without any fixed habitation, are of a restless, + ungovernable spirit: they never cultivate the earth, as do the + Arabs of the plains of Marocco, but live, for the most part, on + camels' milk, occasionally killing a camel or a goat for food; +204 grazing their camels in the adjacent country: they live in the true + Patriarchal style, and seek the means of supplying all their wants + within themselves. To effect this purpose, they barter a few of + their camels for wool, and thus supply themselves with that article + for clothing, which is made in every (_keyma_) Arab tent, by the + women, at their own respective looms; each female being the + manufacturer for her own family. The cloth is wove in pieces of + seven cubits long and about two and a half broad, of the natural + colour of the wool: these pieces of cloth are afterwards converted + into cloaks, mantles, and tunics. Those who choose to indulge in + the luxury of dress, by wearing linen, or turbans, send a few + goat-skins, collected from the goats that have served them + occasionally for food, to Mogodor, or Marocco, or barter them with + some Jews for linen or shoes, and thus supply all their wants; so + that their resources considerably exceed their wants, for some of + them have several thousand camels which cost them nothing. These + animals browse on the bushes in the environs of their habitations, + and are continually increasing and multiplying. They never kill any + animal for food until full grown: this custom, from which the Arab + never departs, is manifestly calculated to increase property, + which, being invested in camels, is transportable, without trouble + or expense, wherever they choose. + + The Arabs are gay and cheerful; the brow of care is rarely seen +205 among them. The more children they have, the greater the blessing. + They turn their hands in early youth to some useful purpose: so + soon as they can walk they attend the camels, or are put to some + domestic occupation; thus forming a useful link in the chain of + their patriarchal society. The independence of these Arabs is + depicted in their physiognomy; they are oppressed by no cankering + care, no anxiety, no anticipation of distress. The food and + clothing of the Arab is always at hand; fuel is not required in + this warm country; and a glass of cool water is all that is desired + to allay the thirst. This simple and abstemious mode of living is + congenial to the human constitution; accordingly they enjoy + uninterrupted health: sickness is so uncommon with them that to be + old and to be sick are synonymous terms. They think one cannot + happen without the other. Some of the women of these people, whilst + young, are extremely delicate, handsome, and have elegant figures. + They account it gross to swallow food, that would, they say, fatten + them like their Moorish neighbours; they therefore masticate it + only. Their physiognomy is very interesting and animated; their + features are regular; large black expressive eyes; a ready wit, + poetic fancy, expressing themselves in poetic effusions, in which, + from constant habit, some of them have become such adepts, that + they with facility speak extempore poetry; those who are unable to +206 converse in this manner are less esteemed. Their evening amusements + consist in dancing and music, vocal and instrumental. Generally, + throughout all the Arab provinces, but particularly in Suse, among + the Mograffra Arabs, the Woled Abbusebah, and Woled Deleim, the + whole country is in a blaze of light of a summer's evening; music, + dancing, and rejoicing, is heard in every direction. Their music + consists of a kettle-drum, a flute or reed, similar to what Homer + describes as the instrument of the ancient shepherds, a rhabeb or + two-stringed fiddle, played with a semicircular bow, a tamboureen, + and brass castanets. They play in precise time; and the ladies + arrange themselves at the entrance of the sheik's tent. It is + pleasant to observe the beauty of their fine-formed feet, uninjured + by tight shoes, and free from corns and all excrescences. They + dance some dances barefooted, making very short steps, scarcely + raising the foot from the ground, in a peculiar manner. They have + elegant and circular ankles; and their light motions fascinate the + eyes of the spectators and the admiring strangers, who occasionally + exclaim, (_Allah hrduh alikume ia Elarb_) "the protection of God + be upon you, O Arabs!" (_makine fal Elarb_,) "there are none + comparable to the Arabs!" They have a very elegant shawl-dance: in + the management of the shawl they display singular grace, and + practise elegant figures, sometimes concealing their faces, +207 sometimes showing their brilliant eyes through an opening in the + shawl. The manners of these ladies is courteous, but chaste; + perfectly modest, but without reserve; and the other sex pay them + courteous attention. + +208 + + ABUNDANCE OF CORN + PRODUCED IN + WEST BARBARY. + + + + + _Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of + Duquella's weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or + Subterraneous Depositories for Corn_. + + The empire of Marocco, west of the Atlas, during the reign of Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of the present Emperor Soliman, was + one continued corn-field. At that time the exportation was free to + all parts of the world. It is impossible to conceive the abundance + produced in this prolific land, none but those who have actually + seen the standing corn in the ear, and have seen it reaped, can + form any correct idea of its prodigious increase. The plains of + Rahamena, of Shawiya, of Temsena, of Abda, and Duquella, those + immense plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, of Ait-Amor, and many + others, form each, separately, extensive fields of corn, farther + than the eye can reach. To give an idea of the quantity produced in + the plains near Dar El Beida, it will be sufficient to say, that + 250 sail of ships, from 150 to 700 tons, were loaded at that port + in one year of Seedy Muhamed's reign. At the other ports on the +209 shores of the Atlantic, viz. at Arzilla, L'Araich, Meheduma, Rabat, + Azamor, Mazagan, Saffy, and Mogodor, were shipped a quantity, + almost equal in proportion to what was shipped at Dar-El-Beida, so + that the duties at one dollar per fanegue, of 80 lb. weight on the + exportation of wheat, barley, Indian corn, caravances, beans, and + seeds, in one year, according to the imperial registers, amounted + to 5,257,320 Mexico dollars.[151] Besides which, presents to an + incalculable amount were made from time to time by Spain and + Portugal, particularly by the former, to keep the Emperor in good + humour, and to prevent him from prohibiting the exportation of + grain, of which however there was little chance, as his Imperial + Majesty was always diligent in the accumulation of treasure, and + let no opportunity pass of encouraging the agriculture of his + dominions. This system gave general occupation to the Arabs, or + agriculturists, and enriched them so universally, that the + diffusion of wealth among them, produced other incalculable sources + of revenue, insomuch that it was customary for Muhamed Ben Amaran, + Bashaw of Duquella, to present to the Emperor at Marocco, every + Friday, (the Muhamedan sabbath), as he returned home from the + mosque, a massive bar of pure gold of Timbuctoo, valued at some +210 thousand dollars; which was considered as the fee by which he held + his bashawick. The Arabs who are the agriculturists of the + before-mentioned plains, besides the corn exported, lay up immense + quantities in subterraneous caverns, constructed by a curious + process, well deserving the attention of the colonists of South + Africa; these repositories are called mitferes[152], they are + constructed in a conical form, and will contain from 200 to 2000 + quarters of corn.[153] It is expedient, in their construction, to + exclude the atmospheric air; and the soil, in which they are + constructed, should be essentially conservative, the air being + never changed, is constantly of the same temperature, very dry, and + not subject to the variations of humidity, which affect the + external air: this, with other necessary precautions being + observed, they will preserve the corn twenty or thirty years + perfectly sound. In countries, (like that of the Cape of Good + Hope,) subject to drought, inundations, or locusts, these mitferes, + or catacombs are indispensable, as they preserve corn as a reserve + stock, in the event of scarcity, or famine, produced by any of the + before mentioned calamities, or providential visitations. It is +211 more than probable that this singular art of constructing mitferes, + was derived in ancient times from the catacombs of Egypt, and that + Joseph might have preserved Pharaoh's corn[154] upwards of seven + years, in similar magazines. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed, who + possessed considerable talent, and had a perfect knowledge of the + disposition and character of his subjects, used to say in the + (_em'shoer_,) place of audience, before all the people, in the + latter part of his reign:--"You complain of my decrees; but when I + am departed from this world, you shall seek for one day of Seedi + Muhamed's reign, but you shall not find it." This prediction has + been literally verified throughout the respective reigns of his + sons Muley Yezzed, and Muley El Hesham, and even his son the + present Emperor has often manifested an anti-commercial system, and + has accordingly (probably by the advice of the Fakeers belonging to + the divan) prohibited the exportation of most articles of clothing, + and provision, such as wool, Fas manufactures, corn, olive oil, + raisins, &c.[155] + + [Footnote 151: Barley and wheat imported from different ports + of England and from the Continent into London (which is more + than is imported into Great Britain) in 1818, was 6,179,330 + quintals or saas of Barbary, which are equal to 7,415,390 + fanegues $.] + + [Footnote 152: Genesis, xli. 9.--"And Joseph gathered corn as + the sand of the sea very much."] + + [Footnote 153: I descended into a mitfere in the Arab province + of Duquella, and remained there whilst the Arab explained to me + the mode of constructing them; this was near the douar of Woled + Aisah (see the map): it had just been emptied, and produced + 3450 saas or quintals.] + + [Footnote 154: Genesis, xli. 48.] + + [Footnote 155: The result of this anti-commercial system is, + that corn is dearer than it was during the exportation. Many + millions of acres of the finest and most productive land lies + fallow for want of a market for its produce; indeed, the + produce has sometimes been so low for want of a market, that I + have known instances of the corn having been left standing, not + being worth the expense of reaping. Now this prohibition + undoubtedly will appear to many intelligent readers bad policy + in his Imperial Majesty, but it is nevertheless consistent + policy. The _sine qua non_ of the court of Marocco is to keep + the inhabitants poor. It is asserted by the political + economists of this country, that the Arab should not have more + than sufficient to feed and clothe him; every thing beyond this + turns to evil, and is an incentive to rebellion: the superflux, + they maintain, should go to (_Beit el melh d'el muselmen_,) the + Muselman treasury.] + + A wine company, consisting of gentlemen of practical experience in + that branch of business, might form a most beneficial establishment +212 at Santa Cruz, whither the grapes of Edautenan are brought to + market, and other grapes from the Arab countries, of exquisite + quality and flavour, infinitely superior in richness, size, and + flavour to those of Spain and Portugal, or any part of Italy; + indeed, I have no hesitation in declaring, (without fear of + contradiction,) that this country produces the finest grapes, + oranges, and pomegranates in the world, and in the greatest + abundance. I have myself tasted at Marocco, at a Hebrew Rabbi's + table, excellent imitations of burgundy, claret, champagne, + madeira, and rhenish, or old hock, all the produce of grapes reared + in the plains of that city, and in the adjacent mountains. The port + of Santa Cruz, if purchased of the Emperor by the English, would, + besides securing the trade to Sudan, and the interior of Africa, + supply the London market with abundance of all these excellent + wines. +213 + DOMESTIC SERPENTS OF MAROCCO. + + Every house in Marocco has, or ought to have, a domestic serpent: I + say ought to have, because those that have not one, seek to have + this inmate, by treating it hospitably whenever one appears; they + leave out food for it to eat during the night, which gradually + domiciliates this reptile. These serpents are reported to be + extremely sagacious, and very susceptible. The superstition of + these people is extraordinary; for rather than offend these + serpents, they will suffer their women to be exposed during sleep + to their performing the office of an infant. They are considered, + in a house, emblematical of good, or prosperity, as their absence + is ominous of evil. They are not often visible; but I have seen + them passing over the beams of the roof of the apartments. A friend + of mine was just retired to bed at Marocco, when he heard a noise + in the room, like something crawling over his head, he arose, + looked about the room, and discovered one of these reptiles about + four feet long, of a dark colour, he pricked it with his sword, and + killed it, then returned to bed. In the morning he called to him + the master of the house where he was a guest, and telling him he + had attacked the serpent, the Jew was chagrined, and expostulated + with him, for the injury he had done him: apprehensive that evil + would visit him, he intimated to his guest, that he hoped he would + leave his house, as he feared the malignity of the serpent; and he + was not reconciled until my friend discovered to him that he had + actually killed the reptile. + +214 + + MANUFACTURES OF FAS. + + _Superior Manufacture of Gold-thread.--Imitation of precious + Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine._ + + + + + The manufactures of West Barbary, are of various kinds. They excel, + in the city of Fas, in the manufacture of woollens, cottons, silks, + and gold-thread. The wool and cotton are made into _hayks_, which + are pieces of cloth five feet wide, and about three and a half, or + four yards long, used to throw loosely over the dress, when they go + out into the external air: it resembles the Roman toga, and when + _tastefully adjusted_, gives an elegance to the Moorish costume. + These _hayks_ are manufactured in most of the private families of + Fas; the women employ themselves about them, and sell them to the + merchants. They are sometimes made of cotton mixed with silk, and + also altogether of silk. They make also pieces of silk of various + bright colours, called _bulawan_; the sky-blue, dark-blue, scarlet, + and yellow, are vivid colours, produced by their mode of dying the + silk before it is manufactured. They manufacture their silks from + _Bengal raw silk_, which they call _emfitla_. The _bulawan_ is +215 striped, or chequered, pink, blue, yellow, scarlet, and green: it + resembles what is called, in England, Persian, but it is much + stronger, and more[156] durable, though equally light. The silk + sashes, called _hazam_, are made in large quantities, and are + deserving of imitation in Europe; they are very substantial, but of + the same superior colours with the _bulawan_. They are made + generally half a yard wide, and three yards long: these sell at + Fas, from two to fifty dollars each. The superior kind made for the + ladies of the _horam_[157], or emperor's seraglio, for the ladies + of the bashaws, and for those of the great and opulent, are + intermixed with a beautiful gold-thread, much superior to any that + is manufactured in Europe, insomuch, that the gold-thread imported + from Leghorn and Marseilles is used only in such _hazams_ as are + made for exportation to Sudan, Draha, or Bled-el-Jereed, but those + made for the great and opulent, for home consumption, are + manufactured with the gold thread of the Fas manufacture. Whether + these expert artificers learned the mystery of gold beating, and + gold wire drawing, by which they obtain gold-thread, from the +216 Egyptians, I am not competent to say; but _they_ say they derived + it in ancient times from the Arabs, as well as the art of cutting, + polishing, and setting precious stones. They make a composition in + imitation of amber, which cannot, by the keenest eye, be + distinguished from the natural amber, the latter, however, by[158] + friction attracts cotton, but the manufactured amber does not; this + is the only criterion by which they ascertain the true from the + false amber. They also compose artificial stones with equal + sagacity; the topaz, the emerald, and the ruby they imitate to + perfection. The wool with which they make shawls almost equal in + appearance to those of Kashmere, is procured from the sheep of the + province of Tedla, and is finer than the Spanish Merino. They might + manufacture shawls of goats' hair, equal to those of Kashmere, from + the goats of the eastern declivity of the Atlas, whose hair is like + silk: these goats are called (_el maize Felelley_,) i.e. Tafilelt + goats.[159] There can be no doubt, if our intercourse with Marocco +217 had not been impeded by a general ignorance of the language of that + country, that we might long since have received from the + manufacturers of Fas, shawls of Tafilelt goat-hair, equal to the + finest of the Kashmere manufacture. There is a very extensive + manufactory of red woollen caps at Fas, the contexture of which is + well deserving investigation. There is also a manufactory of gun + locks and barrels; the former appear to have reached the acm of + the art, the latter are not so good as those which they procure + from Europe: so that a Spanish or an English barrel, and a Fas + lock, is considered a complete gun. Such articles of manufacture as + require a complication of machinery and power to produce they + import from Europe, except only when the market is bare, and then + necessity compels them to attempt their construction. The (_hayk + Filelly_,) i.e. Tafilelt hayk, is a fine elegant woollen cloth, + thin as a muslin. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah patronised + this manufacture of his native country, and never wore any other. + The art of manufacturing leather is carried to great perfection at + Mequinas: shoes of the thinnest leather are there made impervious + to water. The manufactures at Marocco and Terodant are similar to + those of Fas, with the exception of that of gold-thread, and the + cutting and polishing of precious stones. The preparation of + leather at Marocco surpasses any thing known in Europe: lion and + tiger skins they prepare white as snow, and soft as silk. There are +218 two plants that grow in the Atlas mountains, the leaves of which + they use in the manufacture of leather; they are called _tizra_, + and _tasaya_. Whether these render the leather impervious, I am not + competent to say; every inquiry that I have made at Marocco + respecting this beautiful manufacture, has been unsatisfactory. I + have always found the manufacturers very guarded, and extremely + jealous; but I have often thought that two or three of our leather + manufacturers, well versed in their art, and withal of penetrating + minds, might contrive to extract the secret from them. In the + mountains of Idaultit, in Lower Suse, they have iron-mines, and + they make gun-barrels and gun-locks equal to what are made at Fas. + The temptations to agriculture, however, are such, that sufficient + only for the consumption of their own _kabyl_ are manufactured; + which is done rather from a principle of self-defense, and from the + _amor patri_, than with a view to gain. The silver from the mines + of Elala, comes to the Santa Cruz market pure, and in round lumps, + weighing about two ounces each. I have bought it for its weight in + Spanish dollars; but it is generally taken to the Mint for sale. + Ores of gold from the mines of South Barbary, and silver dust from + the bed of the river at Messa, collected personally by me, I sent + to England to be assayed: the person who got them assayed, + reported, that the metal yielded was scarcely sufficient to pay the + charges of assaying; so that the speculation was abandoned. + + [Footnote 156: The spirit of avarice does not sufficiently + prevail to induce the manufacturer to make imperfect articles + for the purpose of sale only. Moreover, they are restrained + from deception by an officer, who inspects the quality of + manufactures, and does not suffer an imperfect article to be + sold.] + + [Footnote 157: This word is called by Europeans _haram_ or + seraglio; but haram thus applied, is a barbarism: it signifies + _vicious_. Horam is the correct pronunciation: it signifies a + place of safety, that admits of no intrusion.] + + [Footnote 158: Thales, the chief of the seven wise men of + Greece, detected the existence of electricity in amber about + 600 years before the Christian era. He was the first who + observed _attraction_ to be the distinguishing property of + amber; and he was so forcibly struck with this singular + discovery, that he was almost led to suppose that it possessed + animation. The term electricity is derived from the Greek word + [Greek: lectron], amber. See Remarks on Electricity and + Galvanism, by M. La Beaume, p. 29.] + + [Footnote 159: There was a breed of these goats on the island + of Mogodor, kept there by the emperor's orders. This island is + the state-prison of the empire.] + +219 + + ON THE STATE OF SLAVERY + IN MUHAMEDAN AFRICA. + + + + + The state of slavery in this country is very different from that + which is experienced by the unfortunate men who are transported + from Africa to work under our Christian brethren in the West India + islands. No man, who is sufficiently erudite to read the Koran can + be (_abd_) a slave in a Muhamedan country. It is incumbent on a + good mselman to give such his liberty, that the propagation of the + (_Deen el Wsah_[160]) mselman faith, be not impeded. A man who + has served his master faithfully[161] seven years, sometimes gets + liberated. This liberation, however, is not compulsory; but + conscientious mselmen, of good moral character, often adopt this + enlarging system. I have, however, met with many Moors, who, on + offering liberty to their slaves, the latter have declined it, + preferring to continue in obeisance; a clear proof that their + servitude is not very severe. All slaves, without exception, are + brought to this country from the various territories of Sudan, by + the akkabars, kaffilas, or caravans, that traverse Sahara. They are + all pagans or idolaters (from the interior regions). They are worth +220 from ten to twenty dollars at Timbuctoo; and at Marocco and Fas + they sell for, from seventy to one hundred dollars. They are + received into the Moorish families as domestic servants, and soon + forget their idolatrous superstitions, and become (nominally at + least) Muhamedans. After which, many learn to read the Koran, and + becoming observers of ablution and prostration, often procure their + liberation; for if any one should neglect to liberate such a slave, + his brethren in Muhamed will urge him to it, as a good and + charitable work, becoming a true, mselman.[162] + + [Footnote 160: So called by Muhamedans: _literally_ means the + liberal of _wide doctrine_, alluding to that of the Arabian + Prophet.] + + [Footnote 161: Jeremiah, xxxiv. 14.] + + [Footnote 162: The etymology of _muselman_ is, a man of peace; + from _salem_, peace.] + + The man who wrote the letter from Timbuctoo, giving his master at + Mogodor an account of Mungo Park, having visited Kabria, which + letter I read, and reported its contents on my arrival in England + from Mogodor, about the year 1807, to my Lord Moira (now the + Marquis of Hastings), to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles + Morgan, was a liberated negro of Seed el Abes Buhellel, a Fas + merchant, whose father had an establishment at Timbuctoo. When + Buhellel liberated this negro, he had such confidence in him, that + he advanced to him, on his own personal credit, goods to a + considerable amount, with which he crossed Sahara, and took them to + Timbuctoo for a market. It were to be desired, for the sake of + _humanity_, that our West-India planters would take a lesson on + this subject from the Moors, whose conduct, in this particular, is + worthy of imitation. + +221 + + THE PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS. + + _Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance + of their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and + not on the other._ + + + + + In the autumn of 1792, (Jeraad) locusts began to appear in West + Barbary. The corn was in ear, and therefore safe, as this devouring + insect attacks no hard substance. In (the _liahli_,) the period of + heavy rains comprised between the forty longest nights, _old + style_, they disappeared; so that one or two only were seen + occasionally: but so soon as the _liahli_ had passed, the small + young green locust began to appear, no bigger than a fly. As + vegetation increased, these insects increased in size and quantity. + But the country did not yet seem to suffer from them. About the end + of March, they increased rapidly. I was at (_Larsa Sultan_) the + emperor's garden, which belongs to the Europeans, and which was + given to the merchants of Mogodor by the emperor Seedi Muhamed ben + Abdallah, in the kabyl of Idaugourd, in the province of Haha, and + the garden flourished with every green herb, and the fruit-trees + were all coming forward in the productive beauty of spring. I went + there the following day, and not a green leaf was to be seen: an +222 army of locusts had attacked it during the night, and had devoured + every shrub, every vegetable, and every green leaf; so that the + garden had been converted into an unproductive wilderness. And, + notwithstanding the incredible devastation that was thus produced, + not one locust was to be seen. The gardener reported, that (_sultan + jeraad_) the king of the locusts had taken his departure eastward + early in the morning; the myriads of locusts followed, so that in a + quarter of an hour not one was to be seen. The depredations of + these devouring insects was too soon felt, and a direful scarcity + ensued. The poor would go out a locusting, as they termed it: the + bushes were covered; they took their (_haik_) garment, and threw it + over them, and then collected them in a sack. In half an hour they + would collect a bushel. These they would take home, and boil a + quarter of an hour; they would then put them into a frying-pan, + with pepper, salt, and vinegar, and eat them, without bread or any + other food, making a meal of them. They threw away the head, wings, + and legs, and ate them as we do prawns. They considered them + wholesome food, and preferred them to pigeons. Afterwards, whenever + there was any public entertainment given, locusts was a standing + dish; and it is remarkable that the dish was always emptied, so + generally were they esteemed as palatable food. + + A few years after the locusts appeared, I performed a journey from +223 Mogodor to Tangier. The face of the country appeared like a newly + ploughed field of a brown soil; for it was completely covered with + these insects, insomuch that they had devoured even the bark of the + trees. They rose up about a yard, as the horses went on, and + settled again; in some places they were one upon another, three or + four inches deep on the ground; a few were flying in the air, and + they flew against the face, as if they were blind, to the no small + annoyance of the traveller. It is very remarkable, that on reaching + the banks of the river[163] Elkos, which we crossed, there was not, + on the north side of that river, to my great astonishment, one + locust any where to be seen; but the country was flourishing in all + the luxuriance of verdure, although the river was not wider than + the Thames at Windsor. This extraordinary circumstance was + accounted for by the Arabs, who said that not a locust would cross + the river, till (_sultan jeraad_) the king of the locusts should + precede and direct the way. + + [Footnote 163: See the Map of the empire of Marocco.] + +224 + + ON THE INFLUENCE + OF THE + GREAT PRINCIPLE OF CHRISTIANITY + _ON THE MOORS_. + (Mat. vii. 12.) + + _Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent + it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial + Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to + attend to the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French + colonizing Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating + the Value of our West-India Islands._ + + + + + That it is a Christian duty to attempt, by lenient measures, to + propagate the Christian religion among the Idolaters and Muhamedans + of Africa, I think cannot be doubted; but this propagation will not + spread to any considerable extent until, (in that country,) the + morals of Christians in general shall approach nearer than they + actually do to the standard of Christian perfection. It is, + however, most certain that there never was a more promising, or a + more favourable opportunity of subverting paganism in Africa, and + establishing Christianity on its ruins, than at this present + period; and I think the best method to effect this desirable + purpose is through the medium of commerce, which must, in that + continent, necessarily precede science and civilisation. It is well +225 known, by all men of penetration who have resided in Muhamedan + countries, that the principles of the religion of Muhamed are not + so repugnant to Christianity as many, nay, most persons have + imagined. Various causes, however, tend to increase the hostility + that exists between the two religions. First, it is augmented by + the fakeers, and by political men, who are ever active in bringing + to their aid superstition and enthusiasm, to increase the + hostility. Secondly, it is augmented by the very little intercourse + which they have with Christians, originating, for the most part, in + our ignorance of the Arabic language, an ignorance which has been + lamented by the emperor[164] Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah himself. + Thirdly, the hostility of these two religions is augmented by a + very ancient tradition, that the country will be invaded by the + Christians, and converted to Christianity, that this event will + happen on a Friday (the Muhamedan sabbath), during the time that + they are at the (_silla dohor_) prayers at half past one o'clock, +226 P.M.; so that throughout the empire they close the gates of all the + towns on this day, at this period of time, till two o'clock, P.M.: + when the prayers are over, and the people go out of the mosques, + the gates are again thrown open. This tradition, which is + universally believed, acts on the minds of the whole community, and + fans the embers of hostility already lighted between Christians and + Muhamedans, bringing to the recollection of the latter the hostile + intentions of the former to invade and take their country from + them, when an opportunity shall offer. On the other hand, what + tends to reconcile the two creeds is, the influence that European + commerce, and the principles of the Christian doctrine, have had on + the muselmen of Africa. This influence extends as far as the + commerce with Europeans extends. Wherever the Europeans negociate + with the Moors, the great principle of the Christian doctrine is + known and discussed,--that principle which surpasses every doctrine + propagated by the Grecian philosophers, or the wise men of the + East,--that truly noble, liberal, and charitable principle, "Do as + you would be done by," influences the conduct of the better + educated muselmen who have had long intercourse and negociations + with Christians; and they do not fail to retort it upon us, + whenever _our conduct_ deviates from it. Thus, the minds of + muselmen, wherever European commerce flows, are tinctured with this + great principle of the Christian doctrine. And, to an accurate +227 observer of mankind, it will appear that this principle, from its + own intrinsic beauty, has in many superseded the muselman + retaliative system of morality, originating in the Mosaic law,--"An + eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth." For I have heard + muselmen, in their individual disputes with one another, advance + this precept as a rule of conduct. If, therefore, this divine + principle be recognised by muselmen, who have had intercourse and + commercial negociations with Europeans, in defiance of the + obstacles to this doctrine suggested by the fakeers and political + men; what might we not expect from the due cultivation of an + extensive commerce, upon a grand national scale, with this + interesting continent? Might we not expect a gradual diffusion of + the principles of Christianity among the muselmen, as well as among + the pagans and idolaters, of Africa? I would venture to assert, + that in the event of the British government engaging, with energy + and determination, to cultivate a commercial intercourse and + extensive connection with Africa, that the negroes, and possibly + even the Muhamedans, might gradually be converted to Christianity. + This event would take a long time to accomplish, but its gradual + progress, most probably, would be more rapid than was the progress + of Muhamedanism during the life of the Arabian prophet. + + [Footnote 164: When this Emperor, for the purpose of satisfying + his people that he administered retributive justice, ordered + two teeth of an English merchant to be drawn, he repented so + much of what he had done, that he offered to make any amends + that the merchant might require, expressing his wish that he + had an English consul with whom he could converse colloquially, + without the inconvenience of an interpreter; and for this + purpose the Emperor, after granting him considerable favours, + urged him to accept of the British consulship; adding, that he + himself would secure him the appointment, and that he would + then refuse nothing, but whatsoever the English should ask of + him, they should have.] + + Associations have been formed in this philanthropic country, + through the medium of extensive subscriptions, for the civilisation +228 of Africa, and the abolition of the slave trade: the greatest merit + is due to the individuals who have subscribed to such institutions; + their motives have been unexceptionable, but we grossly deceive + ourselves, and the whole is an illusion! The French, as it were, + have taken the staff out of our hands; and whilst we are in vain + endeavouring to abolish the trade in slaves, _by the capture of + slave-ships at sea_[165], they are insidiously cultivating the + growth of cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, and other colonial + produce, on the banks of the Senegal river; insomuch that if we + shall continue thus supinely to disregard their important African + agricultural operations, the result in a few years will probably + be, that they will be able to undersell us in West-India produce, + in the markets of continental Europe; for they can cultivate, with + free negroes at Senegal, colonial produce at considerably less + expense than our West-India cultivation. The voyage, also, is not + half the distance; so that the continental market for the sale of + West-India produce will be shortly supplied from Senegal, from +229 whence it is more than probable that colonial produce will be + imported to Europe at little more than half the expense of + importing it from the West Indies: thus Great Britain may be driven + out of the market for colonial produce, except for what may be + sufficient for her own domestic supply. + + [Footnote 165: Many naval officers concur in thinking, that to + suppress the slave trade, by interrupting the ships, would + employ all the navy of Great Britain; and entail a war-expense + on the nation; besides the enormous expense that will be + necessarily incurred by the various commissions dispatched to + Sierra Leone, Havannah, &c. &c. for the adjudication of + slave-causes. To which may be added, our expensive presents to + Spain and Portugal, to induce those powers to coalesce in the + abolition; which there is too much reason to apprehend will be + evaded by the subjects of those powers.] + + This has been a favourite scheme of the French, who have now begun + to taste the fruits of it: they have had it in view and in + operation _ever since we gave them possession of Senegal_. It was + the system of her late Emperor, Bonaparte, suggested to him by the + arch and brilliant genius of Talleyrand, to indemnify the loss of + St. Domingo. + + Moreover, the French, who are cultivating the territory of Senegal + with indefatigable industry, will be, in a few years, not only able + to supply the continental markets of Europe with colonial produce, + but they will become masters of North Africa, establish another + Ceuta at the African promontory of the Cape de Verd, and, in the + event of a war, annoy incalculably our East-India trade, and + enhance the price of East-India produce in the British dominions; + whilst they will, by the aid of the Americans, who will be always + ready to assist them, form a depot for East-India goods at the Cape + de Verd, and from thence introduce them into Africa and France, to + the almost total exclusion of Great Britain. If we are to prevent + these events from taking place, we must adopt different measures +230 from what we have adopted; we must move in a very different sphere + from that in which we have been accustomed to move; we must be much + more energetic, more vigilant, and more active than we have been, + with respect to African matters. It is presumed that these + suggestions are well deserving the consideration of His Majesty's + ministers. May they view with the eye of an eagle and the wisdom of + the serpent the insidious encroachments that are thus making on our + colonial markets!! + + The Africans, by which term I mean the natives, viz. the Moors, the + Arabs, the Berebbers, the Shelluhs, and the Negroes, (not the Jews, + who, although numerous in this country, yet, as they are and have + been ever since their Theocratical Government, a distinct race, and + their customs and manners well known, I do not include them in the + term Africans, although from their birth they are entitled to the + appellation,)--the Africans, I say, are seldom met with in closed + rooms, but are constantly in the open air, transacting their + business in _dwarias_, which are detached rooms, or apartments, + with three sides, the fourth being supported by pillars; this + custom of living continually in or exposed to the external air + renders them strong and healthy, wherefore their bodies, by an + _antiperistasis_, have the natural heat repelled and kept within, + increasing by this action their appetite for food, which is always + strong. They live in a frugal manner, seldom eating but of one +231 food: the prevailing dish throughout North Africa is cuscasoe, a + granulated paste, cooked by steam, and garnished with vegetables, + and chickens, or mutton; this is a very nutritive, palatable, and + wholesome dish. They are not incumbered at their meals with a + variety of dishes; but a large bowl, or spacious plate, is + introduced on a round table, supported by one pillar, like the + _Monopodia_ of the ancients, rather larger than the bowl or dish, + and about six inches high. Half a dozen Moors sit round this + repast, on cushions or on the ground, cross-legged; a position + which they remain in with perfect ease and pliability from custom + and the loose dress they wear. When the company have seated + themselves, a slave or a servant comes round to the guests, to + perform the ceremony of (_togrda_) washing of the hands; a brass + bason or pan, which they call _tas_, is brought round to all the + company, the slave holding it by his left hand, while, with the + right hand, he pours water on the hands of the guests from a + (_garoff_) pitcher, in the form of an Etruscan vase, having + (_zeef_) a towel thrown over his shoulder to dry their hands. This + ceremony is performed before and after meals. The master of the + feast, before they begin to eat, pronounces (_Bismillah_) the grace + before meat, which signifies, "In the name of God;" after the + repast, he says (_El Ham'd lillah_) "Praise be to God." Each + guest eats with the fingers of his right hand, none ever touching + the food with their left. If a piece of meat, or a joint of a fowl +232 or chicken is to be divided, two of the guests take hold of it, and + pull it till it is divided. This is somewhat repugnant to an + European's ideas of delicacy; but if we consider that the hands are + previously washed, and that they never come in contact with the + mouth in decent or respectable society, there is not so insuperable + an objection to this way of eating as might otherwise appear. Each + person in eating the granulated flour or cuscasoe, puts his two + fore-fingers into the dish before him, and by a dextrous turn of + the hand converts the quantity taken up into the form of a ball, + which he, with a peculiar dexterity, jirks into the mouth. The + Africans never drink till they have done eating; when dinner is + over, a large goblet, or _poculum amiciti_, of pure water is + passed round, and each person drinks copiously; the washing is then + repeated, and the repast is terminated. Afterwards coffee is + introduced, without milk: the cup is not placed in a saucer, nor do + they hand you a spoon, for the sugar is mixed in the coffee-pot; + the cup is presented in an outer cup of brass, which preserves the + fingers from being burned. They use no bells in their tents; but + the slaves or servants are called by the master when wanted, one + generally standing in the corner of the tent to superintend the + others. The pipe is sometimes introduced after the coffee, but this + is by no means a general custom, except among the negroes. The pipe + is of rose-wood, of jasmin, or of rhododendrum wood: great +233 quantities of the latter are conveyed across the Sahara, for + pipe-tubes for the negroes of Timbuctoo, and other territories of + Sudan, bordering on the Nile el Abeed, or Nile of the Negroes + (Niger). + + Passing through this territory of encampments, when travellers are + disposed to sleep at a douar, one of the party presents himself at + the confines of the encampment, and exclaims (_Deef Allah_) "The + guest of God." The sheik of the douar is immediately apprised of + the circumstance; and after investigating the rank of the + travellers, he enquires if they have tents with them; if they have + not, he has his own or (_kheyma def_) the guest's tent + appropriated for the travellers. If they have their own tents, + which persons of respectability generally have, the sheik comes and + directs the servants where to pitch them; the camels and mules are + disburdened, and the sheik declares (_atshie m'hassub alia_) "For + all this baggage I hold myself accountable." Europeans travelling + in this country generally follow their own customs: accordingly, + among the English, tea is ordered; a most delectable refreshment + after a fatiguing journey on horseback, exposed to the scorching + rays of the African sun. If the sheik and a few of his friends are + invited to tea, which these Arabs designate by (_elma skoon el + hadra_) hot water and conversation, they like it very sweet, and + drink half-a-dozen cups at least. Nothing ingratiates travellers + with these people so much as distributing a few lumps of sugar +234 among them: sugar, honey, or any thing sweet, being with these + Arabs emblematical of peace and friendship. Some of the women of + the Arabs are extremely handsome; in all the simplicity of nature + "when unadorned adorned the most." To fine figures they unite + handsome profiles, good and white teeth, and large, black, + expressive, intelligent eyes, like the eyes of a gazel; dark + eye-brows, and dark long eye-lashes, which give a peculiar warmth + and softness to the eye. They concern themselves little about time, + and will sometimes come to converse after midnight with the + Europeans. When the guard of the tent informs them they cannot go + in, that the Christian is a-bed and undressed, they are not less + astonished than we are to see them sleeping in the open air at + night, on the ground, with their clothes on. When candles are + brought into the tent at night, the servant wishes the company a + good evening: he says "_M'sah elkhere_," the literal meaning of + which is "_Good be with you this evening_;" which salutation it is + courteous to return, even to a slave; and if any one, however great + his rank, were not to return it, he would be considered a bad + muselman, a disaffected and inhospitable barbarian. The morning + salutation is (_Alem Allah sebak_,) "May your morning be + accompanied with the knowledge of God;" or, (_Sebah el khere_, or + _sebahk b'elkhere_) "Good morning to you," or "May your morning be + good." Equals meeting, touch hands, and then each kisses his own +235 respectively; they then say, (I now speak of the middle order of + society,) "And how are you, and how have you been: how long it is + since I saw you! and how are you, and how are your children; (_hel + Dar'kume_,) and the people of your family, how are they, certainly + you are well:" and so they will go on, sometimes for a quarter of + an hour, repeating the same thing. If an inferior meets a superior, + he kisses his hand or his garment and retires, when there is a + greater disparity of rank, the inferior kisses the stirrup of the + superior; or prostrates himself if the superior is a prince, a + fakeer, or a bashaw. + + Another salutation among respectable individuals is, by each + placing his right hand on his heart, indicating that part to be the + residence of the friend! + + The Jews of this country retain the customs of their ancestors more + pure and unmixed than those in other countries. + + When a Jew dies he is interred the same day, or the day after at + farthest. The female relations and the friends of the deceased + assemble round the corpse, and utter bitter lamentations, tearing + their faces and their hair in a most woeful manner; they disfigure + their faces with their finger-nails, till they bleed, and during + the whole time keep stamping or moving their legs, beating time, as + it were, with their feet; these lamentations are continued, with + occasional intermission, till the body of the deceased is carried +236 away for interment. The performers of these bitter lamentations + appear to have all the marks of hideous grief inscribed on their + faces, but most of them feel no real concern; some of the girls, + young and handsome, near akin to the deceased, are ambitious to + disfigure themselves, and they lacerate their pretty faces most + lamentably. The more wounds these bear on their cheeks the greater + is their grief considered to be. But the corpse being removed the + mourners regale themselves with _Mahaya_, or African brandy, and + make up for their lamentations, by converting their bitter strains + into conviviality. + + There is a strange resemblance between this custom and that + practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand; insomuch that we might + imagine the latter to be one of the lost tribes of this + extraordinary people. It is true that we have no record of such a + perfection of navigation as to enable us to conjecture how a tribe + of Jews could reach New Zealand: but many things remain in great + obscurity even in this enlightened age; and we have had no + historical record transmitted to us from the ancients of many + extraordinary discoveries that recently have been made in Egypt. + +237 + + INTEREST OF MONEY. + + _Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital._ + + + + + In this country the law allows no interest of money; the + consequence is, that the country is overwhelmed with usurers, who + exact, generally, an oath of secrecy, and lend money on pledges of + valuable and convertible merchandise: the interest paid on these + negociations is most exorbitant; I have known five, six, eight, + ten, and even twelve per cent, per month paid for the use of money! + There is no paper money in this country; but a bank might be + established at Mogodor, for the convenience of internal trade: the + _sine qua non_ of the bank should be, AN ADEQUATE CAPITAL. The + advantages that would necessarily result from an establishment of + this kind are incalculable; the paper of a bank, _thus + established_, would be current in a short time, UNDER JUDICIOUS AND + INTELLIGENT MANAGEMENT, in all the territories of Sudan, through + the heart of Africa, through Bambra, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Cashna, + Wangara, Bernh, Fas, and Marocco, and various other countries. The +238 immense advantages of the carriage of paper through the Desert and + through Sudan, _convertible_ into cash at every commercial city, + port, or district in a country like this, would greatly facilitate + the operations of commerce; this must be evident to every political + economist acquainted with the nature of commercial negociations in + Africa. + + The superflux of coin, consisting principally of Mexico dollars, + and doubloons, (over and above the quantum necessary for the + circulating medium of commercial negociations,) is either buried + under ground by the owner, or converted into jewels for the ladies + of his family; there is a general propensity to these subterraneous + hordes; the bulk of the people, the lower classes in particular, + have an idea that they will enjoy in the next world what they save + in this; which opinion is not extraordinary, when we consider how + many cases there are, wherein we see the sublimest capacity + prostrate at the shrine of an _early imbibed_ superstition. Many of + these erring philosophers, therefore, attentive to the accumulation + of riches, retire from this sublunary world with an immense + immolated treasure, wherewith to begin, as they imagine, their + career in the world to come! + + "We," they say, "convert our superflux to jewels and costly apparel + for our females, and we have the gratification of seeing them well + apparelled and agreeably ornamented. Moreover, a great part of our + possessions is appropriated to the sacred rites of hospitality, +239 which you Christians know not how to practise; for you worship the + idol of ostentation; you invite your friends to dinner; you incur + an intolerable and injudicious expense, and provide a multiplicity + of dishes to pamper their appetites, sufficient for a regiment of + muselmen; when nature and national beings, which men were born to + be, require only one dish. Moreover, your sumptuous entertainments + are given to those only who do not want; therefore is it an + ostentatious and a wanton waste! We, on the contrary, that is to + say, every good Muselman, gives one-tenth of his property to the + poor; and moreover much of his substance is appropriated to the + support, not of the rich and independent, who do not want it, but + to (_deefan_) strange guests who journey from one country to + another; insomuch that, with us, a poor man may travel by public + beneficence and apt hospitality from the shores of the + Mediterranean to the borders of Sahara, without a fluce[166] in + (_hashituh_) the corner of his garment.[167] A traveller, however + poor he may be, is never at a loss for a meal, several meals, and + even for three days entertainment, wherever he travels through our + country; and if any man were to go to a douar in any of the Arab +240 provinces of our Sovereign's empire, and not receive the + entertainment and courtesy of a brother, that douar would be + stamped with a stigma of indelible disgrace! Pardon us, therefore, + if we say, you have not such hospitality in your country, although + the great principle of (_Seedna Aisa_) our Lord Jesus, is + charity." [168] I should, however, observe that this hospitality is + shown almost exclusively to Muhamedans. + + [Footnote 166: A fluce is a copper coin, one hundred of which + are equal to sixpence English.] + + [Footnote 167: In the corner of his garment:--The Africans have + no pockets; they carry their money in the corner of their + garment, and tie it with a knot to secure it.] + + [Footnote 168: The Muhamedans acknowledge Jesus Christ to have + been a Prophet that worked miracles; the indelible proof of his + mission.] + + Respecting women and horses, speaking of the treatment of them in + England, they remark, that "England is a paradise for women, who + are there exalted beyond the fitness of things; and it is + (_gehennum_) a hell for horses, for those poor ill-treated animals + in the hackney coaches and carts, need only to be seen to be + pitied; the hard blows which they receive from their cruel masters + are calculated to impress our minds with an opinion that we are in + a land of barbarians, whereas you call yourselves a civilised + people: You say you are such; your actions deny the fact, and we + judge by actions, not by words or self-commendations. When, + therefore, you pride yourselves on your superiority and + civilisation the whole is a delusion; and when we hear you set + forth these absurd pretensions, we are compelled to commiserate our + common race, and to exclaim, Alas, poor human nature!" This is the +241 verbatim reply that a very intelligent but irritated Muselman made + to my animadversions on the absurdity of burying treasure. This + gentleman's father had been ambassador from the Emperor of Marocco + to Great Britain, and to France; and had seen much of French, + Spanish, and English manners, among the higher orders of society in + those countries. + + Too much cannot be said in commendation of this generous, + open-hearted philanthropy of the Arabs, here described: but the + intelligent reader will understand, that it applies particularly to + the Arabs, or cultivators of the plains, in the empire of Marocco; + and, in its large and unlimited extent, to the Bedouin or roving + Arabs of the Sahara, and of Lower Suse, from whose (_kabyles_) + clans, the Arabs cultivators are early emigrations; almost all of + them having their original stock in the Sahara. It is also + confined, almost exclusively, to Muhamedans, and does not, like the + divine doctrine of Jesus Christ, with universal benevolence embrace + all mankind, without distinction of party, sect, or nation;--a + doctrine which has lately been put in considerable practice in our + own country, by institutions supported by voluntary subscriptions + for the destitute, for foreigners in distress, and for negroes; by + institutions in aid and support of all needy persons labouring + under sickness, or having need of surgical aid; by institutions for + the encouragement of industry, for the refutation of vice and +242 immorality; by institutions that reflect immortal honour on this + country, and cast a lustre on the respective individuals who have + contributed to all these heart-approving institutions, which are + calculated to afford relief to almost every description of + suffering humanity!! + + Itinerant (_tebeebs_) doctors travel through the country to + administer to the sick; which, however, are seldom found. They + carry over their shoulders a leathern bag, containing their + surgical apparatus, which consists of a lancet, a scarifying knife, + and a caustic knife, or knife for burning: they scarify the neck, + the forehead, or the wrists. The caustic knife is an instrument of + very general application. They convert all gun-shot and other + wounds, as well as sores, into burns, by heating the knife in the + fire, and gently touching the circumference of the wound with it. + This produces acute pain; but the Africans bear pain heroically: + they say that this method prevents inflammation and festering. They + perform, by caustic, extraordinary cures. I imagine this method + would not agree with an European body, pampered with a variety of + high food and luxurious living. + + The inhabitants of this country break their fast with (_el hassa_) + barley-gruel; they grind the barley to the size of sparrow-shot, + this they mix with water, and simmer over a slow fire two or three + hours. This food is esteemed extremely wholesome, and is +243 antifebrile. The Emperor takes this before he drinks tea in a + morning: his father, Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, also, who drank + none but fine hyson tea, never would drink that beverage till he + had first laid a foundation of _el hassa_. + + The Arabs and Shelluhs, with whom _el hassa_ is generally used, + urge its salubrity, by reporting that a physician alighted in a + strange country, and when he arose in the morning, after performing + his matins, he seated himself with some of the inhabitants, and, + conversing, asked them how they lived, and with what food they + broke their fast? "With _el hassa_," was the reply: "Then," + rejoined Esculapius, (_Salam alikume_,) "Peace be with you; for + if you eat _el hassa_ in the morning you have no need of a + doctor:" and he immediately departed. + + When I established the port of Santa Cruz, and opened it to + European commerce, the gratitude and hospitality of the Arabs and + Shelluhs of the province of Suse, was demonstrated in every way: so + rejoiced were they to see their port, after an inactivity of thirty + years, again re-established. If I rode out to visit any part of the + country, the women, on my approach to a douar, would come out to a + great distance with bowls of milk on their heads; others with bowls + of honey, with thin scrapings of butter in them, and bread or +244 cakes[169], similar to pancakes, baked in five minutes, on stones + heated with the embers of charcoal. These greetings I received by + tasting every bowl of milk, and dipping a bit of bread in the honey + and eating it. The milk thus presented is emblematical of peace and + amity; the honey of welcome: to refuse eating or tasting what is + thus presented, is considered, among this patriarchal people, a + great breach of good manners, an inexcusable want of courtesy, + which they say none but a _kaffer_[170] would commit. They would + then say, _Birk eeaudee, birk attajar u straha_, "Alight, I pray + thee, alight, merchant! and rest yourself." + + [Footnote 169: See a similar custom in Genesis, xxiii. 5--8.] + + [Footnote 170: Kaffer is the Arabic term for Infidel. All the + idolatrous Negro nations are, by Muhamedans, denominated + Kaffer, (or Caffres). Sing. Kffer--plural Kaffer.] + + In these halcyon days, these grateful people never knew when to + cease offering presents. They sat on the ground in the refulgent + meridian sun, and when I dismounted to walk to the shade of a tree, + to partake of their hospitality, they would exhort me to shun the + shade, (_lie drab'k elbird_) for fear it should give me cold. +245 These Bedouin[171] Arabs of Suse and Sahara are the descendants of + the ancient Arabs, whose bold and figurative language is the same + that was spoken in Arabia twelve centuries ago, in the time of + Muhamed. + + [Footnote 171: The Arabs of the vast plains of the empire of + Marocco, who live in douars, or encampments, are emigrations + from the original stock or clan in Sahara; who are the pure or + Bedouin Arabs. Being established in the beautiful and + productive plains of West and South Barbary, they soon forget + their Bedouin customs, change their wandering, plundering + habits, and become cultivators, and stationary; for the immense + produce of their labour in these plains, which require no dung, + nor any preparation but the plough, soon rewards their + industry, so as to determine them to continue this new mode of + life.] + + Passing early one morning by a douar, in the territory of + Howara,[172] I was invited to join a party to hunt the wild boar. + The plains of Howara, between the city of Terodant and Santa Cruz, + abound with boars: we started, in a few hours, seven of these + animals, two of which were taken and killed. The dogs best + calculated for this sport are what they call _sereet telt_, or the + third race of greyhounds, which is a very strong dog. One of these, + I observed, attacked the boars by the nape of the neck, and never + left his hold till the other dogs came up to the attack: although + the boar would toss him about in all directions, he never left his + hold. The Arabs of Suse are very dextrous and active at this sport: + they hunt with javelins; some have guns, which they fire when + opportunity offers, but they never expend their powder and shot + (_batl_) vainly, as they express it, but always make sure of their +246 mark. I could not but admire this celebrated (_slogie_) greyhound; + which the Arab to whom it belonged observing, insisted on my taking + it home to Santa Cruz, adding, that whenever I wished to hunt, to + let him know, and he would accompany me. I offered him a present of + money for the dog, which is what I never had refused before in the + provinces north of Suse; but he declined the offer, saying he was + more than recompensed already by the establishment of the port of + Santa Cruz. "Myself, my family, my kabyl," said he, "hail you as a + father; (_e moot alik_) they will die in your cause." No favour + could have equalled that of re-establishing the commerce of + Agadeer. These circumstances serve to show what reception might be + expected from these people, if the British Government would + negociate with the Emperor for the purchase of the port of Agadeer, + or Santa Cruz, preparatory to the establishment of a commerce with + Timbuctoo, and other regions of Sudan. + + [Footnote 172: In the 815th year of the Hejira, an emigration + from the Howara Arabs attacked, took possession of, and + destroyed the city of Assouan, in Egypt.] + +247 + + PLAN + FOR THE + GRADUAL CIVILISATION OF AFRICA. + + _On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the + Sahara and Ashantee._ + + + + + To cultivate an extensive commercial intercourse with Africa, I + have already observed, that the best method, the simplest, and that + which is, from contingent circumstances, the most likely to + succeed, is the plan which I have pointed out in the following + prospectus. I shall now offer several reasons why this plan is + superior to any other hitherto suggested. + + The riches of the Arabs of Sahara generally, as well as of that + part which I have contemplated as a convenient spot for + establishing a colony, and for opening a communication with Sudan, + consists exclusively in camels. The independence of a man is there + ascertained by the number of camels he possesses; it is not said, + how many thousand dollars has he? or, what quantity of gold does he + possess? or, what land has he? but, how many camels does he own? + The master of these, aptly denominated, ships of the Desert, is +248 urged by interest to let on hire his camels, as the master of a + ship of the ocean is urged by interest to seek freight for his + ship. And it is observed, that the ferocious appearance among the + Arabs, (which is too often assumed,) subsides in proportion to the + intercourse they have with merchants, who negociate with them for + the transport of their goods. Thus, at the _depts_ for camels + between the cultivated country and the Desert, viz. at _Akka, + Tatta, Ufran,_ and _Wedinoon_, the ferocity of the Arabs is greatly + lost in the commercial spirit and endeavour to let their camels on + hire to the merchants. The Mograffra, the Woled Abbusebah, and the + Tejakant Arabs, therefore, who possess the Sahara, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the confines of Timbuctoo, would act in concert + with the colony, and would have a joint interest in promoting their + commercial views. The Brabeesh Arabs who receive, occasionally, + tribute from Timbuctoo, would also find it expedient to promote the + commerce of Sudan, and the prosperity of Timbuctoo; both which + would necessarily be united to their own interest, and would + provide a demand for their camels. + + If the profits of this commerce, when once established and secured + to the British, were to be cent. per cent., the whole would remain + a bonus to the colony. There would be no shereef of Fezzan, or + bashaw of Tripoli, to take their share of the profits, in any + shape, in exchange for the privilege of being suffered to pass +249 through their country. But, on the contrary, the Arabs of the + Mograffra and other tribes would find it so evidently their + interest and advantage to be friendly with us, that we might + absolutely have the entire command of the Desert, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the city of Timbuctoo, which would eventually + throw such a weight of power into our hands, as to make even that + city itself, in a manner, tributary to us. + + A plan of this kind should be executed _upon a grand national + scale_, and be pursued with discretion and perseverance. + + An attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo, through Ashantee, and + establish a commerce through that country, might meet with + temporary success; but I apprehend that we should labour under the + same inconveniences, and be subject to the same arbitrary imposts + and exactions, whether in the shape of duties, part of the profits, + or otherwise, as we should, by opening a communication through + Tripoli. There would be a present or douceur to the king of + Ashantee; others to the princes of the adjoining territories; and, + finally, (taking the character of this king to be as represented by + the late traveller in that country, Mr. Bowdich), might we not + reasonably anticipate that, on the first dispute respecting the + division of the profits, the king of Ashantee would order all the + English out of his country, and, to terminate the dispute, plunder + them of their property? But, perhaps the establishment of a colony + in Ashantee, _conjoined_ to one in Sahara, might not be +250 objectionable. We should then have two routs to the grand emporium + of central Africa: if one failed, the other would remain open for + our countrymen to recover their property and to return by; and + thus, in establishing a commercial intercourse with the interior of + Africa, through two routes, we should secure, at the same time, our + retreat, by one of them, and not remain at the mercy of the + barbarous king of Ashantee, or any other African potentate, who + might be urged, from jealousy or avarice, to sacrifice our people, + when once he had them in his power! + +251 + + PROSPECTUS OF A PLAN + FOR FORMING A + NORTH AFRICAN OR SUDAN COMPANY, + + To be instituted for the purpose of establishing an extensive + Commerce with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the + Interior Regions of North Africa. + + + * * * * * + + OBJECTS OF THE SOCIETY. + + 1_st_. To lay open the interior regions of North Africa to British + enterprise--to supply those vast and unexplored countries with + British manufactures, with East-India goods, and with colonial + produce. + + 2_dly_, To encourage our manufactories, by opening a new market + calculated to improve the revenue of the country, to provide + employment for the labouring poor, and to enrich the mercantile + community; _the genial influence of which sources of prosperity + will necessarily diffuse itself through all classes_. + + 3_dly_, To facilitate, through the medium of commerce (_the only + medium by which it can possibly be effected_), the exploration of + the interior regions of Africa, (_which have remained to this day a + sealed book, notwithstanding the many adventurous expeditions that +252 have been undertaken_,) by opening a communication with the natives + of that vast and little-known continent, and BY CALLING TO OUR AID + THE CO-OPERATION OF THE NATIVE CHIEFS, BY HOLDING OUT TO THEM THE + BENEFITS WHICH THEY WILL DERIVE FROM COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE AS A + REWARD FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE AND EXERTIONS IN PROMOTING THIS + DESIRABLE OBJECT. + + For these purposes it is proposed-- + + That the funds to be raised be one hundred thousand pounds, in + shares of one hundred pounds each. Ten shares to constitute a + director. + + The spot proposed to be fixed on as the point of communication, and + commercial dept, between Great Britain and the interior of Africa + is SAFE AND HEALTHY: it will afford a _direct communication with + Timbuctoo and the interior regions of Sudan_, without being subject + to the uncertainty of securing the favour and protection of the + various sultans and sheiks of the respective territories of the + interior, through which the merchants and traders may pass--a + measure which would have been indispensable in every plan that has + hitherto been suggested for the discovery of those interesting + regions. + + The plan now to be adopted, on the contrary, will be subject to + none of those impediments and uncertainties; but the merchants and + travellers will pass through territories where they need fear no + hostility, but will be received with hospitality and attention by + the natives, who will give them every assistance and accommodation +253 in their progress through their country. + + Connected with this plan, a school for instructing the British + youth in African Arabic, so as to initiate them in the rudiments of + that language previously to their departure for Africa, might be + established, under the direction of JAMES GREY JACKSON, professor + of African Arabic, &c. + + The present scheme has been many years in contemplation, but no + favourable opportunity of making it thus public having hitherto + occurred, it is now offered to the public, in consequence of the + energies lately manifested by France and by America for African + colonisation, and also by Holland. + + The projectors, for the honour of their own country, are anxious + that Great Britain may not, through supineness, suffer this + important discovery to be wrested from her by any foreign power, + but that she should _at least share the glory_ due to this + important achievement, the completion of which would _immortalize + the prince who should cherish it to its maturity_. + + Capitalists, and gentlemen resident in Great Britain, desirous of + further information on this subject, may address themselves to + JAMES GREY JACKSON, whose residence, at any time, may be known at + Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown, London. + + TO THE BRITISH PUBLIC. + + London, 31st March, 1819. + + The above plan is ingenuously, liberally, and disinterestedly +254 submitted to the consideration of British capitalists and merchants + of respectability. The advantages to be derived from such an + establishment as is here contemplated, if not evident to Great + Britain, is clearly visible to Holland, to France, and to America. + + The projector, therefore, without mentioning the offers that have + been made to him by a foreign maritime power, and _without + courting_ the suffrages of British merchants in support of this + plan, has it in contemplation, (_provided no attention is paid to + it in England_,) to lay this eligible scheme open to a foreign + power. If, therefore, the projector should accept employment in + this undertaking from a foreign power, it will be in the + conviction, that _it is more to the interest of mankind in general, + and to Europe in particular_, that this plan for opening an + _extensive, lucrative, and beneficial commerce with Africa_, (which + would necessarily lead to its civilisation,) should be known to, + and adopted by, _a foreign power_, than that this vast and + little-known continent should, (to the indelible disgrace of + civilised Europe,) _still continue to remain_ an useless and an + undiscovered country to the present generation! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the + Trade carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the + Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Dept of + North Africa, and with other States of Sudan_. + + Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and other commercial ports of France +255 and Italy, as well as of Spain, send to Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, + and Egypt, _for the markets of Sudan_, manufactured silks, damask, + brocade, velvets, raw silk, combs of box and ivory, gold-thread, + paper, manufactured sugar, cochineal, and various other + merchandise. + + Great Britain sends to the Barbary ports in the Mediterranean, and + to Mogodor on the Atlantic Ocean (which are afterwards conveyed to + Timbuctoo), for distribution at the several markets of Sudan-- + + _East India Goods, viz._--Gum benjamin, cassia, cinnamon, mace, + nutmegs, cloves, ginger, black pepper, Bengal silk, China silks, + nankeens, blue linens, long cloths, and muslins (mulls). + + _West India Produce_.--Pimento, tobacco, coffee, cocoa, and + manufactured sugar. + + _Linens_.--Dimities, plattilias, creas, rouans, Britannias, + cambrics, and Irish linens. + + _Hardware_.--Iron nails, copper ditto, brass ditto, sword blades, + dagger ditto, guns, gunpowder, knives, &c. &c. + + _Cloths_.--Superfine, of plain brilliant colours, not mixtures, and + cassimeres. And various other articles of merchandise. + + Immense quantities of salt are also sent to Timbuctoo, which is for + the most part collected at the mines of Tishet and Shangareen, (see + the map of northern and central Africa, in the New Supplement to + the Encyclopaedia Britannica,) through which the caravan would pass + to Timbuctoo. +256 + The following are the articles purchased by the Moors and Arab + traders, and are the returns brought back to Barbary from Sudan; + viz. + + Gold dust, and trinkets of pure Wangara gold, of various fashions, + of the manufacture of Housa and Jinnie.--_B'Kore Sudan_ (fumigation + of Sudan), a kind of frankincense highly esteemed by the Africans. + Ostrich feathers (the finest in the world). Elephants' Teeth. + _Korkidan_, so called by the Arabs, being the horns of the + rhinoceros: these are a very costly article, and are in high + estimation among the muselmen, for sword-hilts and dagger-handles. + _Guza Sarawie_ (Grains of Paradise). Gum Copal Assafoetida, and a + great variety of drugs for manufacturing uses, and various roots + for dyeing. Ebony. Camwood. Sandal wood. Indigo, equal to that of + Guatimala: to which may be added, the command of the gum trade of + Senegal. + + All the foregoing merchandise being first landed at Alexandria, + Tripoli, Tunis, Algiers, and Tetuan, and other Barbary ports in the + Mediterranean, _as well as at Mogodor on the western coast of + Africa_, are afterwards sold to the Muhamedan merchants, who sell + them with a very good profit to other Moors. These goods frequently + go through three, four, and five hands, before they reach the + consumer in Sudan, subject to a profit gained by each holder of + from twenty to thirty per cent.; the last purchaser, who conveys +257 them through the Desert, however, expects, and generally obtains, + from fifty to sixty per cent. profit on them, to which he considers + himself entitled, from the fatigue and privations of his passage + through the Desert, during a journey through a country, for the + most part barren, of above fifteen hundred miles in length; through + various kingdoms and principalities, subject to a charge for + (_statta_) convoy at the exit and entrance of each respective state + or district on each side of the Sahara, as well as in the Sahara + itself. + + But, according to the plan here suggested to the commercial + community, all these various articles, instead of passing through + five several hands, would now pass through only two hands, viz. + through those of the shippers in England, and those of their agents + established on _the western coast of Africa_, who would sell them + directly to the Timbuctoo trader, which latter, instead of having + several principalities and kingdoms to pass through (at the exit + from each of which, as well as at the entrance of them, he would + have a charge for protection or convoy, called _statta_, levied on + the goods), would have no convoy-charge, or statta, to pay; he + would have but ten hundred, instead of fifteen or sixteen hundred + miles to go, being about two-thirds of the distance of the road + from Tunis or Tripoli, through Fezzan, to Timbuctoo. + + N.B. There is an immense bank near the contemplated dept, or port +258 (abounding in fish, which now supplies the _wahs_, or cultivated + spots in the desert, as well as the territories on the southern + confines thereof), which produces fish sufficient to supply the + whole of the interior of Africa, as well as the shores of the + Mediterranean, &c. &c. + + _Letter from Vasco de Gama, in elucidation of this Plan_. + + Sir, + + The Society of Encouragement for National Industry in France, has + granted prizes for various discoveries in the arts and sciences; + but I wish government, or some society of our own country, would + offer a liberal prize for the best mode of colonising Africa, and + for meliorating the condition of the inhabitants of that vast and + little known continent. A well-digested plan for the discovery of + this continent might be followed by the most desirable events. The + efforts of the African Association have, to say the least, been + lamentably disastrous; little good can be anticipated from the + efforts of solitary or scientific travellers in a country where + science is not cultivated, and where the travellers know little or +259 nothing of the[173] general language of Africa, or of the manners + and dispositions of the natives. + + [Footnote 173: The general language of North Africa is the + Western Arabic, with a knowledge of which language, a traveller + may make himself intelligible wherever he may go; either in the + negro countries of Sudan, in Egypt, Abyssinia, Sahara, or + Barbary.] + + A knowledge therefore of the _African Arabic_ appears indispensable + to this great undertaking; and it should seem that a commercial + adventurer is much more likely to obtain his object than a + scientific traveller, for this plain reason,--because it is much + easier to persuade the Africans that we travel into their country + for the purposes of commerce and its result--_profit_, than to + persuade them that we are so anxious to ascertain the course of + their rivers! + + Accordingly, it was aptly observed by the Negroes of Congo, when + they learned that Captain Tuckey came not to trade nor to make war; + _"What then come for? only to take walk and make book?"_ + + I do not mean now to lay down a plan for the colonisation of + Africa, or for opening an extensive commerce with that vast + continent, but I would suggest the propriety of the method by which + the East India Company govern their immense territories. _I would + wish to see an African Company formed on an extensive scale, with a + large capital_. I am convinced that such a company would be of more + service to the commerce of this country than the present India + trade, where the natives, _without being in want_ of our + manufactures, surpass us in ingenuity. But the Africans, on the + contrary, _are in want_ of our manufactured goods, and give immense +260 sums for them. According to a late author, who has given us the + fullest description[174] of Timbuctoo[175] and its vicinity, a + _Plattilia_ is there worth fifty Mexico dollars, or twenty _meezens + of gold_, each meezen being worth two and a half Mexico dollars; _a + piece of Irish linen_ of ordinary quality, and measuring + twenty-five yards, is worth seventy-five Mexico dollars; and a + quintal of _loaf sugar_ is worth one hundred Mexico dollars. Now if + we investigate the parsimonious mode of traversing the Desert, we + shall find that a journey of 1500 English miles is performed from + Fas to Timbuctoo at the rate of forty shillings sterling per + quintal, so that loaf sugar (a weighty and bulky article) can be + rendered from London at Timbuctoo through Tetuan and Fas, including + the expense of a land-carriage of 1500 miles at about 6. per + quintal, thus: + + Refined sugar on board in London for _s. d._ + per cwt. 70 0 + + Duty on importation in any part of + Marocco, ten per cent. 7 0 + + Freight, &c. five per cent. 3 6 + + Land carriage across the Desert on camels + to Timbuctoo 40 0 + ----- + s. 120 6 + ----- + + [Footnote 174: See new Supplement to the Encyclopedia + Britannica, article Africa, page 98.] + + [Footnote 175: See the account of Timbuctoo appended to + Jackson's account of Marocco, published by Cadell and Davies, + London, Chap, 18.] +261 + So that if 100 lb. of loaf sugar rendered, at Timbuctoo cost + 120_s_. 6_d_ and sells there for 100 Mexico dollars at 4_s_. 6_d_. + each, or for 22. 5_s_. there will result a profit of 270 per cent. + + The profit in fine goods, such as the linens before mentioned, is + still more considerable, not being subject to so heavy a charge for + carriage. The immense quantity of[176] gold dust and gold bars that + would be brought from Timbuctoo, Wangara, Gana, and other + countries, in exchange for this merchandise, would be incalculable, + and has, perhaps, never yet been contemplated by Europeans!!--In + the same work, above quoted, 3d edition, page 289, will be found a + list of the various merchandise exportable from Great Britain, + which suit the market of the interior of Africa or Sudan: and also + a list of the articles which we should receive in return for those + goods. + + [Footnote 176: The Kings, David and Solomon, extracted from + Africa to enrich the temple of Jerusalem upwards of + 800,000,000. sterling, a sum sufficient to discharge the + national debt; see Commercial Magazine for May 1819, page 6.; + which is eight times as much gold as the mines of Brazil have + produced since their discovery in 1756. See Commercial Magazine + for the same month, page 44.] + + Plans to penetrate to the mart of Timbuctoo (which would supply + Housa, Wangara, Gana, and other districts of Sudan with European + merchandize) have been formed; but if a treaty of commerce were + made with any of the Negro kings, these plans would be subject to + various impediments. +262 + The goods, in passing through hostile territories, (these + sovereigns living in a state of continual warfare with each other,) + would be subject to innumerable imposts; _it would therefore be + expedient to form a plan whereby the goods should reach Timbuctoo + through an eligible part of the Desert_: but some persons who have + been in the habit of trading for gum to _Portandik_, have declared + the inhabitants of Sahara to be a wild and savage race, untractable + and not to be civilised by commerce, or by any other means. This I + must beg leave to contradict: the Arabs of Sahara, from their + wandering habits, are certainly wild, and _they are hostile to all + who do not understand their language_; but if two or three + Europeans capable of holding colloquial intercourse with them, were + to go and establish a factory on their coast, and then suggest to + them the benefit _they would derive_, being the _carriers_ of such + a trade as is here contemplated, their ferocity would be + transferred forthwith into that virtue in the practice of which + they so eminently excel all other nations, _hospitality_; and the + most inviolable alliance might be formed with such a people. I + speak not from the experience of books, but from an actual + intercourse, and from having passed many years of my youth among + them. +263 + An advantageous spot might be fixed upon on the western coast, in + an independent district, where our alliance would be courted, from + which the Kafila[177] or Akkaba would have to pass through only one + tribe with perfect safety, and subject to no impost whatever; + neither would they be subject to any duty on entering the town of + Timbuctoo, as they would enter at the _Beb Sahara_, or gate of the + Desert, which _exempts them_ from duty or impost. + + [Footnote 177: Caravan.] + + That civilisation would be the result of commerce, and that the + trade in slaves would decrease with the increase of our commerce + with these people, there can be little doubt; and, independent of + the advantages of an extensive commerce, the consolation would be + great to the Christian and to the Philosopher, of having converted + millions of brethren made in the perfection of God's image, and + endowed with reason, from barbarism to civilisation, if not to + Christianity!!! + + Let us hope, then, that some of the intelligent readers of your + luminous and interesting pages will direct their attention to this + great national object, and produce ah eligible and well-digested + plan for the cultivation of a mutual intercourse _through the + medium qf commerce with Africa_, and for the civilisation of that + hitherto neglected continent. + + VASCO DE GAMA. + + _Eton, 28th May, 1819_. +264 + + _On Commercial Intercourse with Africa_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + The plan of your correspondent, for opening a commercial + intercourse with the interior of Africa, appears to me so direct + and simple, that I am only surprised it has not been thought of + before. The Moors are the merchants of Africa; the chain of + communication that runs from the states of Barbary to the negro + kingdoms, and from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea. + To judge of the humanity of these people from the accounts of + shipwrecked sailors, whom they have dragged into slavery, and then + liberated for money, would be not less fallacious than to estimate + the character of the English nation from the plunderers of the + wrecks on their coast. From such accounts, the name of Moor has + inspired us with horror; and Park's detention at the camp of Ali, + one of their chiefs, has contributed to confirm it. Park, however, + so far from endeavouring to conciliate his captors, endeavoured, by + his own confession, to appear as contemptible as possible in their + eyes; and yet, with this disadvantage, the greater part of the + miseries he endured proceeded from the climate and the irritation + of his own mind. + + The Arabs of Sahara are the carriers of merchandize throughout + North Africa, and the Moors are in the constant habit of selling +265 gum to the French on the Senegal. The French say they are + perfidious; but they give no proof of it that I have seen. I have + met with a French traveller, who owns that his countrymen deceive + them either in the weight or measure of the gum they purchase. + + Bruce found a friend in every Moorish merchant, and integrity and + intelligence in all. And where should these qualities be found in a + country like the interior of Africa, in which learning has no place + but among merchants? + + So much for the proposed carriers of English goods to Timbuctoo. + Now for the road. The fertile parts of Africa are hot and humid, + unwholesome and dangerous; and the kings are often at war with each + other. Park experienced both these evils; and the wonder was, not + so much that he perished on his second journey, as that he returned + from his first. The Desert is dry and heathful. It is sprinkled + with fertile spots, which form a succession of known + resting-places, and the distance between each requires a certain + number of days to travel. The Moors are at home in Sahara; and, + when they go long journeys, the fertile spots are their inns. The + road from the coast of Sahara is also the shortest that has yet + been pointed out to Timbuctoo. + + If the means of executing the plan appear sufficient, it is not + necessary to say any thing in favour of the object: the exchange of + British manufactures for gold, speaks for itself. But there is no +266 time to be lost. The French settlement of Galam is advantageously + situated for commerce with Timbuctoo: a Frenchman has already + travelled from Galam to that city, I believe on a commercial + speculation, and he has returned safe. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa_. + + When we consider the maritime strength of Great Britain; her + command of the ocean; the vicinity to Europe of West Barbary, one + of the finest countries in the world; the rich and valuable produce + which is cultivated in this country;--when we consider that our + garrison of Gibraltar is in its vicinage, and but a few hours' sail + from it, we are naturally astonished that our communication with + this country is so limited. That we have less commercial + communication with Barbary, than we have with countries that do not + open to us any thing like the commercial advantages that this + country offers, though they are thousands of miles from us. It + appears relevant, therefore, to inquire, whence originates this + impeded intercourse? There are two great impediments to our free + intercourse with Sudan through Marocco: viz., a general ignorance + of the Arabic language, as spoken in the latter country; and the + repugnancy of the Muhamedan religion to that of Christ. With + respect to the first of these impediments, it is remarkable that + this learned language is so little known in Europe,--this language, +267 the most prevalent in the world, a language which is spoken or + understood almost without intermission from the western shores of + Africa on the Atlantic ocean, to the confines of China,--a language + understood, wherever Muhamedans are to be found, throughout all the + populous and commercial regions of Africa, from the Western Ocean + to the Red Sea, and from the Mediterranean to the country of + Kaffers,[178] in the vicinage of the Cape of Good Hope. With + respect to the second of these impediments, the repugnancy of the + Muhamedan religion to that of Christ, it may justly be observed, + that this is not really so great as we are apt to imagine; the + moral principles of Muhamedans being not unlike those of the former + Christians, being in fact a composition of Hebrew and Christian + morality. They acknowledge Jesus Christ to be a prophet, and tell + us, that, in this respect, they are on the safe side, as we impute + no Divine authority to Muhamed. But a most violent repugnance to + Christians has been propagated by the (_Fakeers_) Muselmen saints, + or holy men. They have industriously circulated the belief of an + old superstitious prediction which they have on record, viz. that + the Christians will invade the Muhamedan countries, take their +268 cities and towns, and establish the Christian religion on the ruins + of that of Muhamed, and take possession of the country. These + reports, propagated, as before observed, by the (_Fakeers_) + Muhamedan saints, among the lower orders, have kindled a high + degree of rancour and animosity, (equal to that which the Catholics + formerly indulged towards their protestant brethren,) which will + never be extinguished until a friendly alliance and extensive + commercial intercourse be established with them; which alone can + soften this rancour and animosity into peace and amity. This + animosity has been increased also by the rancorous anti-christian + disposition manifested towards these people by the writings of + Roman catholic priests and others.[179] If these uncharitable + opinions of each other could be eradicated, the blessings that + would result to the Africans would be incalculable; a reciprocal + exchange of good offices might pave the way to purchase of the + Emperor of Marocco the port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz, aptly + denominated, from its contiguity to the Sahara (_Beb Sudan_) "the + gate of Sudan," which, in the hands of the English, would be the + key to the whole of the interior of Africa, and an effectual link +269 in our chain of communication with the interior of that + undiscovered continent; it would moreover secure to us the entire + commerce of those extensive and populous regions, to the exclusion + of our Moorish competitors of Cairo, Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, + Algiers, and other ports of Barbary, who supply the people of Sudan + with European merchandise at the fourth, fifth, and sixth hand. + + [Footnote 178: _Kaffer (or Caffre_) is an Arabic word which + signifies infidels or unbelievers (in Muhamed); the very name + has been given by Muhamedans, and therefore it is to be + presumed that the Muhamedans approximate the countries + contiguous to the Cape.] + + [Footnote 179: See Martin Martinius. Abraham Ecchellensis. + Maccarius, Theolog. Polemic. Peter Cevaller. Robert de Retz, + translator of the Koran. See also the support of this assertion + in Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, enlarged + edition, published by Cadell and Davies, Strand, from p. 196. + to 208.] + + The abolition of the slave-trade cannot be effected until we shall + have substituted some commerce with the Negro countries, equivalent + at least, or that shall be more than equivalent to it, otherwise + the negro sovereigns of Sudan will never be induced to relinquish + so great a source of profit. Every naval officer in His Majesty's + service knows, that if we were to have thirty sail of the line + continually off the coast of Guinea, it would not be sufficient to + annihilate this abominable traffic, or to deter people from + embarking in a trade that yields such extraordinary profits. This + being admitted, as it certainly will be by every intelligent man, + it follows, that the system now in operation by the British + government for the abolition of the slave-trade, will be attended + only with an unnecessary expense to this country, without the + possibility of effecting the desired object; but, on the contrary, + judging from recent events, there is every reason to presume, that + this detestable commerce will increase, as it has continued to + increase, these last two or three years, in spite of all our +270 operations to prevent it; the Spaniards alone having imported into + the island of Cuba more slaves in 1818 and 1819, than in the four + preceding years. The result has been, that that island has + produced, in 1819, more than double the produce of the former year; + their waste lands, accordingly, are in progressive cultivation, + and, if they go on thus improving, that island, in a few years + hence, will produce coffee and sugar sufficient for the supply of + all the markets of Europe. + + Finally, Slavery will never give way to any thing but civilisation; + the civilisation of Africa can never be accomplished but through a + great and extensive commercial intercourse, a commerce that will + _enrich the negroes, and enable them, by a supply of arms, to + contend with and gain an ascendancy over their Muhamedan + oppressors_, who want no other pretext for attacking them, than + that of their being idolaters, which idolatry, it is asserted, + authorises the Muselman to make them slaves. Thus, _the abolition + of slavery must depend on the Africans themselves_; and although it + is in our power to supply them with the means for _their + emancipation_, yet it is absurd to suppose that we can effect it by + our naval operations. If all the great sovereigns of Europe were to + agree to make the trading in slaves piracy, they would not prevent + it. WE cannot emancipate them; _that only can be accomplished by + their own energy_, awakened in them by commercial intercourse, and + its accompanying civilisation. +271 + Much might be done if all the African societies were to unite their + interest, knowledge, and abilities for this desired object. If the + African Company would unite their energies with the African + Association, and with the African Institution, such an union would + promote the civilisation of the African continent, and the + conversion of the Negroes to Christianity. + + ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOSQUES. + + The architecture of this country is of the Gothic character. The + mosques are built somewhat like our churches: the body of the + mosques are covered with green glazed tiles; the steeples are + invariably an exact square, the sides being ten or twelve feet, not + tapering as those of Coventry, but the top having the same + dimensions as the base. At the top is erected a smaller square, + with a flag-staff similar to a gallows, to which is suspended every + day at noon, a white flag, the signal of preparation for prayers; + but on Fridays, the Muhamedan Sabbath, a dark-blue one is + substituted for the same purpose. Some of the mosques are paved + with white and black chequered marble, some are tessellated + pavements, consisting of white, blue, and green glazed tiles, about + two inches square, a very pretty mode of paving, extremely clean, + and has a very cool appearance; others are terrassed, which is lime +272 and small stones beaten down with wooden mallets. They excel in the + art of making terras. The houses are all flat roofed, so as to + resist the heaviest rains: the declivity of the terrasses is so + imperceptible, that it is just sufficient to give the rains a + tendency to the great conduit or pipe that leads to the mitfere + underneath the house, which is underground, and has a terras + bottom, impervious to the water. Here is collected water sufficient + for the family or household during the year; the lime that washes + into the mitfere from the terrassed roof, purifies the water, and + preserves it from worms and other insects. They have no ornaments + in their mosques; but the place where the Mufti or Fakeer reads + prayers, is covered with mats or carpets; the rest of the floor is + bare, and the respective individuals prostrate themselves on the + bare floor, or on an antelope's or _Elhorreh_[180] skin, or the + skin of a lion or tiger, prepared in a superior manner by the + tanners at Marocco, the leather of which is made soft as silk, and + white as snow. + + [Footnote 180: For a description of this curious animal, see + Jackson's Marocco, page 83, Chapter on Zoology.] + + The bodies of the dead are never laid in the mosques or near them, + but are invariably carried out of the town, to some coba[181] in +273 the vicinity. The bodies of the dead are washed, and covered with + lawn, and placed on an oblong wooden machine, resembling a box + without a cover, called a _kiffen;_ it has four legs about six + inches long, to uphold it from the ground, and two horizontal + projections at each end, to place on the shoulders of four men, + generally the nearest relations of the deceased, who thus carry the + body to the grave, chaunting with the whole company, amounting + sometimes to some hundreds, _La Allah, ila Allah wa Muhamed Rassule + Allah_, "There is no God but God, and Muhamed is the prophet of + God." This repetition may appear extraordinary to the English + reader; but let it be observed that the Muhamedans never use the + pronoun for the name of the Omnipotent, but invariably the noun. + The body is taken out of the bier, and laid in the ground, the face + upwards, without any coffin or box, the legs towards Mecca, and + then covered with earth, so that it might, at the resurrection, + rise with its eyes towards (_El Kaaba_) Muhamed's mausoleum. No + money is paid for the ground, nor is any expense paid for a + monument: a stick or a stone stands erect at the head, and another +274 at the feet. If the deceased lived a moral, inoffensive, and + exemplary life, the public, at its own expense, oftentimes erects + (_kaba_) a cubical building with a dome at the top to the departed, + and he is thence denominated (_fakeer_) a saint. + + [Footnote 181: A coba is a cubical building, about forty or + fifty feet square, having a dome on the top, inhabited by a + fakeer; the ground adjacent to this building is consecrated for + the dead, but is never inclosed. The living reverence the dead + by never, riding over these grounds; but travellers, in passing + stop and repeat a fatha. When the ground has been consecrated + to the dead, and the _coba_ has an inhabitant, who must be a + sanctified person, he immediately assumes the name of fakeer or + priest, and the building, and cemetery attached to it, becomes + a _zowia_ or sanctuary.] + + The palaces of this country generally consist of a perfect square + wall, containing from two to forty acres of land, or more; for the + imperial palace at Mequinas covers about two square miles of + ground. At each corner of the square is a cubical building, with an + angular top, of green glazed tiles, having four windows, one in + each side; in the centre of the square is the palace, surrounded by + a colonnade one or two stories high. The pavement is either + tessellated or of chequered marble; some of the walls of the rooms + are also tessellated with arabesque, borders, the ceilings are + painted with gay colours, viz. scarlet, sky-blue, green, yellow, + and orange, in arabesque, and some of them are very elegant. The + houses of the opulent are diminutive imitations of the palaces. The + house of (_the Talb Cduse_) the minister of the Sultan Seedi + Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Marocco, is a building, elegantly neat. + Abd Rahamen ben Nassar's house at Mogodor, is well deserving the + investigation of an European architect, and his magnificent new + house at Saffee, is a model of a particular style of architecture. + Some of the houses of the princes and the military at Mequinas are +275 handsome buildings, and many of the houses of the opulent merchants + at Fas, who have their commercial establishments at Timbuctoo, and + other countries of Sudan, are extremely neat and truly unique, + having beautiful gardens in the interior, ornamented with the + choicest and most odoriferous flowers and shrubs; with fountains of + running water, clear as crystal, delectable to behold in this warm + climate, and such as are not to be seen in any part of Europe. + +276 + + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, + AND + ANECDOTES; + + _Illustrating the Nature and Character of the Country_. + + + + + + INTRODUCTION. + + In recording the following Anecdotes and Fragments the naked truth + is stated, without the embellishments of language, or the labour of + rhetoric, which the wiser part of mankind have always approved of + as the most instructive way of writing; and all such as are + acquainted with books will readily agree with me, that many authors + stretch, even to the prejudice of truth, from an affectation of + elegance of style. + + The following facts, therefore, will form the materials for a + history, rather than a history itself. + + The study of the _language and customs of the Arabs is the best + comment upon the Old Testament_. The language of the modern Jews is + little to be regarded; their dispersion into various nations, +277 having no fixed habitation, being _wholly_ addicted to their own + interest, their conformation to the respective customs of the + various nations through which they are dispersed; have caused them, + in a great measure, to forget their ancient customs and original + language, except what is preserved in the Bible and in the exercise + of their religion. Whereas the Arabs have continued in the constant + possession of their country many centuries, and are so tenacious of + their customs and habits, that they are, at this day, the same men + they were three thousand years ago. Accordingly, many of their + customs, at this day, remind us of what happened among their + ancestors in the days of Abraham. + + _Trade with Sudan_. + + 1795, June 14th. Two (_Akkabas_) accumulated caravans of Gum Sudan, + called in England "Turkey[182] Gum Arabic," have reached the Arab + encampment of Dikna, not far from the northern confines of the + Sahara; and will be at Santa Cruz, in the province of Suse, in a + fortnight. + + [Footnote 182: This gum is conveyed from Sudan to Alexandria, + in Egypt; there it is shipped off for Smyrna, or + Constantinople, and from thence imported into England.] + + _Wrecked Ships_. + +278 A large ship, supposed to be Spanish, bound to Lima, has been + wrecked near Cape Noon; the cargo consists of lace, silks, linens, + superfine cloths, and is estimated by the Jews, at Wedinoon, to be + worth half a million of dollars. + + _Wrecked Ships on the Coast_. + + Extract of a Letter from James Jackson, and Co. at Mogodor, to + their correspondents in London. January, 1801. + + The wine and dollars per the Perola de Setubal, wrecked on the + coast of Suse, have been recovered from the Arabs, by Alkaid Hamo, + the governor of Santa Cruz; and we have just received them safe by + a boat. If this vessel had been wrecked on the coast of Cornwall, + it is more than probable that the cargo would have been plundered. + We have presented the governor with twenty dollars, for his + extraordinary energy, exertions, and great merit in the recovery of + the whole of this property. + + The Prosperous, Captain Driver, a southwhaler, was wrecked near + Cape Noon, in 1790; the crew was redeemed by me, and brought to my + house at Santa Cruz, after being upwards of two years in captivity + in the Desert: and I sent them all from Santa Cruz to Mogodor on + mules, where, after remaining about two months, the Bull-dog sloop + of war came down from Gibraltar for them, and they were sent off to + her by the imperial order. +279 + _Wrecked Sailors_. + + English seamen that are so unfortunate as to be wrecked on the + coast of Sahara, are generally better treated than the French, + Italian, or Spanish, because there is a greater probability of a + ransom; and because it is well known that the English admit no + slaves in their own country. + + _Timbuctoo Coffee_. + + Coffee grows spontaneously in the vicinage of Timbuctoo, _south of + the Nile Elabeed_. I sent a quantity to Mr. James Willis, formerly + Consul for Senegambia: it was of a bitter taste, which is the + general character of this grain before it is improved by + cultivation. + + _Sand Baths_. + + The Arabs bury the body erect in sand, up to the chin, as a remedy + for several disorders, particularly syphilis. + + _Civil War common in West Barbary_. + + In the provinces of Haha and Suse, particularly in the mountainous + districts, intestine wars frequently prevail: kabyl against kabyl, + village against village, house against house, family against +280 family. In these lamentable wars, which so continually disturb the + peace of society, retaliation is considered an incumbent duty on + every individual who may have lost a relation, so that the embers + of hostility are thus incessantly fanned; and this lamentable + revenge pervades whole clans, to the utter destruction of every + humane and philanthropic propensity, converting the human race to a + degradation below the beasts of the field. + + _Policy of the Servants of the Emperor_. + + The Bashaws, and others holding responsible situations in the + empire, are continually purchasing a good name and good report at + court, by courtesy to and by feeing the ministers of the Emperor to + report favourably of them, whenever opportunity may offer. + Incredible sums are sometimes expended in this way. + + _El_[183] _Wah El Grarbee, or the Western Oasis_. + + The prince, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother of the reigning Emperor, + Muley Soliman, purchased, on his return from the pilgrimage to +281 Mecca, a domain in (Santariah[184]) the Oasis of Ammon or Siwah, as + a retreat; and being appointed by his father Seedi Muhamed, viceroy + of the province of Suse[185], he was enabled to give succour to the + Shelluhs, inhabitants of that province, on their pilgrimage to + Mecca, and to entertain them with the comforts of hospitality on + their passage through the Desert. This was the more agreeable to + these Shelluhs, because, after passing a long journey of some + thousands of miles through Sahara, they reached, at Santariah, not + only a territory yielding every comfort and necessary of life, but + a country wherein their own prince had authority, and wherein their + own native language is spoken and understood. + + [Footnote 183: In the Lybian Desert there are three _Wahs_ (or + _Oasises_, as we call them): the greater, called _El Wah El + Kabeer_; the lesser, called _El Wah Segrer_; and the Oasis of + Ammon, called _El Wah El Grarbie_, i. e. the Wah of the West.] + + [Footnote 184: The Wah of the West is also called by the + Mograbines _Santariah_.] + + [Footnote 185: See the map of West Barbary.] + + When this prince's father, the emperor Seedi Muhamed died[186], the + prince Abdsalam engaged Alkaid Hamed ben Abdsaddock, late governor + of Mogodor, to go to Santariah, and sell this domain for him; which + he accordingly did. It is more than probable that the Shelluhs of + Siwah are an _emigration_ from Suse. + + [Footnote 186: About twenty-eight years since.] + + _Prostration, the etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + +282 An ambassador from Great Britain was sent to the court of Marocco, + during the reign of Seedi Muhamed, father of the present emperor, + Soliman. On his arrival at Fas, (where the court was at that time + held,) the (_Mule M'shoer_) Master of the Audience, who was the + (_Sherreef_) Prince Muley Dris, came up to the ambassador and + informed him, that it was customary for all persons coming into the + imperial presence to take off their shoes, and to prostrate + themselves. To these ceremonies the ambassador objected, alleging + that he was received by the king his master with his shoes on; and + that he presumed the Emperor, on a proper representation being made + to him, would not exact from him greater obedience than he paid to + his own sovereign. The master of the audience reported the + interpretation of the ambassador's remarks to his imperial master. + The emperor paused, and (insinuating that the ambassador was + somewhat presumptuous in placing a Christian king on a par with a + Muselman emperor) commanded the prince to dismiss the ambassador + for that time, till the following day. In the interim, the Emperor + urged the master of the audience to make diligent inquiry how the + Christians conducted themselves in the act of prayer before the + Almighty God; and whether they then uncovered their feet, and + prostrated themselves, as Muhamedans did. The morning following, + the master of audience procured the necessary information + respecting this point, and acquainted the Emperor that the English +283 Christians, like the Jews, prayed erect; but that they uncovered + their heads, and bowed at the name of Jesus of Nazareth. "Go, + then," replied the emperor, "and let the ambassador be presented to + me without uncovering his feet, and without prostration; for I + cannot require more obeisance from a foreigner, than he himself + pays to Almighty God." + + _Massacre of the Jews_, _and Attack on Algiers_. + + In the year 1806, when Algiers was attacked by the Arabs of the + mountains, and by the inhabitants of the plains, the Jews of the + city were massacred. It was suggested to the present Emperor of + Marocco that a favourable opportunity now offered to subdue + Algiers, and add it to the empire: but the Emperor replied, "That + it was wiser to secure and keep together all those provinces that + his father had left him, than to endeavour by _uncertain and + expensive_ warfare to extend his dominions, by invading a + neighbouring nation." + + _Treaties with Muhamedan Princes_. + + Treaties of peace and commerce between the Muselmen princes and + Christian powers, are regarded by the former no longer than it is +284 expedient to their convenience. Muselmen respect treaties no longer + than it is their apparent interest so to do. When an ambassador + once expostulated with his imperial majesty for having infringed on + a treaty made, an emperor of Marocco replied--"Dost thou think I + am a Christian, that I should be a _slave_ to my word?" + + _Berebbers of Zimurh Shelleh_. + + This kabyl of Berebbers inhabit the plains west and south-west of + Mequinas. They are a fine race of men, well-grown, and good + figures; they have a noble presence, and their physiognomy + resembles the ancient Roman. The laws of hospitality, however, are + disregarded among them: they will plunder travellers who sojourn + with them, whenever they have an opportunity. + + _The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation_. + + The late emperor, Muley Yezzid, proceeded from Mequinas to Marocco, + with an army of thirty thousand cavalry, to take the field against + the rebellious Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of the province of + Abda, acting conjointly with the bashaw of the province of + Duquella, who had collected an army of eighty thousand men, of +285 which fifty thousand were horse. The Emperor, on his arrival at + Marocco, was exasperated against the kabyls of the south; and was + informed that the merchants of Mogodor had supplied his rebel + subject, Abdrahaman, with ammunition. Enraged at this report, which + the exasperated state of his mind prompted him to believe, he + issued an order to the Governor of Mogodor, implicating the greater + part of the European merchants of that port of high treason, and + ordered their decapitation. This order was brought by one Fenishe, + a relation of Tahar Fenishe; who had been, some years before, + ambassador from Marocco to the court of St. James's. The Governor, + however, suspecting that the order had been issued in a moment of + irritation, delayed its execution, in the hope that it might be + countermanded; or, in hope that the result of a battle would render + it unnecessary to be put in execution.--Soon afterwards, news + arrived at Mogodor that the two armies had met, had fought, and the + Emperor had vanquished his antagonists, who had more than double + his force, but was himself dangerously wounded. This induced the + governor still further to delay the execution; having now + ascertained that the order was obtained by a stratagem of malicious + and ill-disposed people. The next day news came that the Emperor + suffered extremely from a ball in the upper part of the thigh, +286 which the surgeons could not extract. The Emperor, in a fit of + frenzy, from pain or passion, took his (_kumaya_) dagger, cut open + the wound to the ball, and expired soon after. Thus were the + merchants of Mogodor saved providentially from an untimely death. + + _The Emperor Muley Yezzid's Body disinterred_. + + When the united armies of Abda and Duquella were vanquished and + dispersed by the Imperial troops, in the neighbourhood of Marocco, + the report became general that the Emperor was wounded. It is + asserted that several men in ambush had orders to wait their + opportunity to fire at the Emperor, when he should approach; and + when the Emperor did approach the bush wherein these men lay + concealed, they all fired. It appears, however, that only one shot + had effect. The Emperor finding himself wounded, instead of being + discouraged, was reanimated to the combat, and entered into the + midst of it; a soldier by his side observed to him, that he was + wounded, and whilst expressing his hope that it was not dangerous, + the Emperor, with one stroke of his sabre, cut off his head! Even + after the death of this redoubted warrior, the people trembled, + doubting the truth of his decease. Abdrahaman went personally to + Marocco and had the body disinterred to ascertain the fact, + suspecting that the report of his death might be a stratagem; but +287 having ascertained it, he returned to Saffy, and his brother Muley + Esslemmah was immediately proclaimed by Abdrahaman. Doubts of the + Emperor's death still pervaded the minds of men: it was reported + that he had been seen in the Atlas Mountains, in Draha, in Suse. At + length a person somewhat resembling him in person, appeared between + Wedinoon and Ait Bamaran (see the map): the panic took; and men + from all parts of the country, who had known the Emperor, hastened + to Wedinoon to ascertain the fact. Many who were too curious were + shot by order of this pretender, to prevent the possibility of + their returning to give notice of the imposture. The immense number + of persons who now believed him to be Yezzid was incalculable; his + party increased and multiplied, and he soon had thousands of + followers who supported his cause. The infatuation of the vulgar + and the bulk of the community was astounding; for the renowned + Muley Yezzid, like his Majesty George IV., was the first horseman + in his empire, and the most accomplished gentleman: whereas + Buhellesa[187], for so he was called in derision, was so bad a + horseman that he generally rode a mule. + + [Footnote 187: So called from his generally riding a mule, with + a large stuffed saddle, rising high before and behind, covering + the whole of the mule's back, and forming a very secure seat. + This enormous and ponderous saddle-mattras is called _Hellesa_; + and as the Pretender rode on it, he was called _B Hellesa_; + that is the father of a _Hellesa_.] +288 + This man was reported to be an adept in the occult sciences; and it + was both reported and credited, that the occult art enabled him to + multiply corn and provision for the army to any quantity he might + want. I was established at Santa Cruz, which was three days' + horse-travelling from Buhellesa's standard; the (_Shereef,_) Prince + Abdsalam, brother to Yezzid, was then resident there, and Viceroy + of Suse. It was the Prince Abdsalam's desire to destroy this + pretender; for his army and followers exceeded now thirty thousand + men, the Prince sent to Muhamed ben Delemy, khalif of Suse, and + sheik of the Duleim Arabs, whose castle was about thirty miles + south of Santa Cruz. Delemy and the Prince were sworn friends: the + latter proposed to him to give battle to Buhellesa, and so prevent + the empire from being usurped. Neither Delemy nor the Prince had + funds to raise an army; so that neither of them knew what steps to + take. _Delemy, however, with the true spirit of a Bedouin Arab, + supported his friend in his adversity,_ and promised to exert + himself to counteract the operations of the arch-hypocrite + Buhellesa. Collecting the sheiks of the various kabyls of Suse, he + made an energetic harangue to them; and discussed with them the + expediency of their uniting together, to repel the impostor. The + sheiks were all loyal, and well affected to Muley Abd Salam; whose +289 government of Suse, by his khaliff Delemy, added to the + hospitalities with which the Prince entertained the people of Suse + at his domain, the _Wah el Grabie_, or the Oasis of Ammon, called + _Santariah_, ingratiated Muley Abd Salam so much in their favour + and esteem, that they all unanimously (_passed l'ad_[188]) joined + hands, and determined, each individually, to raise his respective + kabyl to support the cause of Muley Abd Salam. In a short time they + raised an army among themselves of ten thousand horse, and + determined to attack Buhellesa, so soon as he should begin to move + forwards, and before he should reach Terodant, in his way to + Marocco; for there he had a strong party, which would augment his + forces. The hero Delemy, who was as valiant a soldier as Muley + Yezzid himself, and as expert and dextrous in the management of the + horse, determined therefore, with less than half the force of his + antagonist, to attack him, before he should be able to gather more + strength. The army of the sheiks joined, and proceeded towards + Wedinoon. At night they learned that Buhellesa, with an army of +290 22,000 men, mostly horse, having been apprised of Delemy's + preparations and movements, had proceeded through Ait Bamaran + towards Shtuka, and that he intended to attack Delemy's castle. On + hearing this, the army halted for an hour, and returned towards + Shtuka again. In the morning they came up with Buhellesa, who was + encamped about four hours south of Delemy's castle. The march of + Delemy's troops, all hardy warriors and men of valour, was so + rapid, that Buhellesa was taken by surprise. The battle lasted + seven hours; during which Delemy's brother was wounded and + unhorsed, in the midst of the enemy's troops: but being unknown, + and in a similar dress with the rest, he recovered himself by the + assistance of some friends, sent to him by his brother the khalif, + and was enabled to rejoin his own troops. Buhellesa was so hard + pressed, that he made his retreat into a house: on being attacked + there, his pistol missed fire, and he was overcome. They + immediately cut off his head and his arms, when his army dispersed, + most of them making the best of their way to Wedinoon. That same + night, the man of Shtuka, who first attacked Buhellesa, was + dispatched with his head and feet to Muley Abd Salam, at Santa + Cruz. + + [Footnote 188: The _L'aad_ of the Arabs is a joining of hands, + without Shaking: the palms of the right hands of the parties + coming in contact with each other, and the thumbs over each + other. This is a solemn obligation among them; a calling God to + witness their resolution of mutual assistance, offensive and + defensive; a swearing to stand by each other till death; an + obligation that nothing can dissolve; such a pledge, that if a + man were to break it, he would be execrated and rejected from + society!] + + The reported approach of Buhellesa, with so strong a force, had + urged me to ship all the property I could collect; and I was on the +291 beach early the following morning, directing the shipment of my + property; when taking a ride along the beach, I met an Arab, with a + basket before him, and a foot sticking out of it. "_Salam u alik_," + I exclaimed, "And what have you got there?"--"_Alik Salam_," said + the Arab, "I have got Buhellesa's head and feet here: I killed him + myself; and the khalif Delemy has sent me with them to the Prince. + Dost thou think the Prince will reward me?"--"Certainly," said I, + "for such an essential service." The Prince gave the Arab one + hundred duckets[189]; the guns were fired; and the head and feet + were hung over an embrasure of the round battery, facing the south. + Thus terminated the career of Buhellesa. + + A short time after this, I was on a visit to Delemy, and he + accompanied me to the field of battle; which was an undulating + plain, not unlike that of Waterloo: and the house to which + Buhellesa made his escape, was not unlike the hotel de la Belle + Alliance on the plains of Waterloo, having, however, a flat roof. + + [Footnote 189: Worth 5_s._ each, but equal to 100_l_., or more, + in that country.] + + _Shelluhs: their Revenge and Retaliation._ + + A Shelluh, of the province of Suse, had been a servant in the house +292 of Mr. Hutchison, British Consul at Mogodor fifteen years; but it + happened to be twenty years since a relation of his, in Suse, had + been killed, to whom he was the next of kin but one: but the next + of kin dying, it devolved upon him to seek retaliation; no + opportunity, however, having occurred, he determined to go to Suse + to fulfil this his calling. Now above twenty years had elapsed + since the death or murder of the relation of Bel Kossem, the + Consul's servant. This man, foregoing the eligibility of his place, + apprised the Consul of his intention to leave him. Mr. Hutchison, + who esteemed him not a little for his long and faithful services, + was astonished to hear of his determination to depart; and, + apprehending that he might want an increase of pay, he offered to + increase it: but Bel Kossem told him that an imperious duty + devolved on him to revenge the blood of his ancestor. Accordingly + he received his wages, and departed forthwith for Suse. A few + months afterwards he found an opportunity of killing his enemy, + which being done, it was expected that this Shelluh would now + return to Mogodor, and resume his place again; but by a parity of + reasoning, it devolved to the next of kin of the man recently + killed to seek revenge for his murdered relation, but Bel Kossem, + to avoid the like fate, went into a distant country. This duty of + revenging death, is rigidly pursued among the Shelluhs, so that one + murder often produces ten, or even twenty deaths; each revenging + his relation or next of kin. +293 + _Travelling in Barbary._ + + It is extremely difficult, whilst travelling in this country, to + ascertain from the natives the distance of any (_douar_) encampment + of Arabs: the general answer to such a question is (_wahud saa_), + "an hour," but this is a very indefinite term, being used for a + distance from two to twelve miles, or more; therefore, as these + people have no definite notions of time or distance, the only way + of ascertaining distances, is by knowing the rate at which the + caravan goes, which is a regular pace, and consulting your watch; + by this means, the distance of any journey, however long, may be + accurately ascertained. + + _Anecdote displaying the African Character, and showing them to be + now what they were anciently, under Jugurtha._ + + A Muhamedan was sent to prison, for having killed a man; and after + remaining there some time, it was expected that the Emperor's order + would come to have him shot, or to have his right hand cut off, + with which it was presumed he killed his enemy. A friend of the + prisoner, willing to liberate him, that he might escape the + punishment that awaited him, engaged a person well acquainted with + the prison to procure his enlargement; accordingly he promised him +294 a sum of money, if he would effect this purpose. It was agreed that + the money should be paid. The liberator was then to prove to the + man advancing the money, that he had accomplished his purpose. The + night in which his liberation was to be attempted was fixed on; + ropes were ready to enable the prisoner to escape over the + prison-wall. In the mean time the next of kin of the man who had + been murdered, sought the blood of the prisoner, and was persuaded + by the man that had engaged to liberate the prisoner, that the + latter was not in prison, that he had made his escape, but that the + former would undertake to put him in his power, so as to enable him + to accomplish his revenge. This was agreed to, and accordingly a + sum of money was paid as a remuneration for the service. All + matters were arranged, and the person who paid the money was + desired to be on the rock, near the prison, outside of the town + wall, at two o'clock in the morning, and there he would find his + enemy. The person who made the first engagement was directed to be + at the same spot at three o'clock. In the mean time the liberation + was effected at two o'clock, and the prisoner was informed that his + friend would meet him under the rock at three o'clock, to conduct + him to a place secure from discovery. Soon after two o'clock, the + next of kin to the person whom the prisoner had killed came and +295 plunged a dagger into his heart; afterwards came the other man, and + saw the body of his friend, whom he recognized. On expostulating + with the liberator, the latter replied, "I have executed my + engagement to liberate your friend; I am entitled to my reward: + what has happened to him since his liberation is no concern of + mine; see you to that. But I should inform you, that soon after his + liberation, I saw a man approach, and fearing that I was + discovered, I ran and hid myself under a rock. In a short time I + returned and found your friend weltering in his blood. When I + approached him, he had just time before he expired to name to me + his murderer, who, he said, was the next of kin to the man he had + himself killed."--Note, The Shelluhs consider it a duty incumbent + on them, each, individually to revenge the blood of their family; + that they are bound to seek the murderer, if possibly he can be + found. Such is their invariable attention to this principle of + revenging blood for blood, that I have known instances of men who + have relinquished eligible appointments, to go into distant + countries, several years after a murder has been committed, to + revenge the death of a relation, after becoming, by intervening + death, the next of kin of the murdered person. + + The lamentable effects of this fatal retaliation is such, that one + death often produces twenty murders, and afterwards involves whole + kabyls in intestine wars. +296 + It is remarkable, that the more duplicity they use in these horrid + transactions, the more merit is ascribed to the agent; who is + praised in proportion to the extent of his ingenuity, or duplicity, + as was the case with the liberator above mentioned. + + _Every Nation is required to use its own Costume._ + + The Jews in West and South Barbary, have a predilection for the + European costume, in preference to their own, the former being + respected, the latter not: moreover the character of a _merchant_ + is highly respected by the Moors, and the European dress is a kind + of passport to a man as such. One day, the Emperor seeing in the + place of audience, at a great distance, a gentleman, apparently an + European ambassador, ordered the master of the audience to go and + see who he was, and what nation he represented; but it being + discovered that he was a Marocco Jew, his scarlet and gold dress + was torn from him, and a _burnose_, (a large black cloak, the + costume of the Jews of the lower order,) was put over him, when he + was buffetted and kicked out of the place of audience. The Emperor + was exasperated at this circumstance, which he considered a vain + deception: he ordered his secretary to write to all the ports in + his dominions, to desire that Jews should wear the _burnose_, that +297 Christians only should wear the European costume, and Moors and + Arabs theirs; so that thus every individual might be known by their + respective dress. On this occasion, an opulent Hebrew merchant at + Mogodor felt so much the insults he was exposed to, from wearing + the Jewish costume, that he actually paid several thousand dollars + to obtain the privilege he had formerly enjoyed, which, in + consequence of his being an opulent man, and a foreign merchant, + was granted to him. + + The name of this gentleman would here be mentioned to gratify the + curious; but as it might give umbrage to his family, and as the + intention here is only to describe the character and manners of the + country, there is, I conceive no necessity for stating + personalities. + + _Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under that Name._ + + This extraordinary character visited Marocco about the year 1805 or + 1806. He pretended to be a native of Aleppo, called in Arabic + _Hellebee_, and was known by the name of Seed Hellebee, which + signifies "the gentleman of Aleppo." Europeans, as well as himself, + since his return to Europe, have converted this name into Ali Bey, + of the family of the Abassides. This gentleman possessed abilities + of no ordinary degree, he was supplied with money in abundance by +298 the Spanish government. He had not been long at Mogodor, when his + munificence began to excite the suspicion of the governor, as well + as the admiration and applause of the populace. Adopting the + costume of the country, he professed himself to be a Muselman; and + as a pretext for not speaking the[190] Arabic language, he + pretended that he had gone from Aleppo, the place of his nativity, + to England when very young, and had forgotten it. He had, as he + declared, considerable property in the Bank of England. Being + desirous of collecting all the information possible respecting the + country, he procured two young Spanish renegado musicians, who + played on the guitar, and sung Arabic airs and songs, with which he + affected to be highly delighted, these musicians, however, served + his purpose in another way; for, being apprehensive of creating + suspicion by direct enquiries, he prevailed on these renegadoes to + procure the information he desired, by giving them from time to + time several questions to which they procured direct answers, as + reported by the natives. + + [Footnote 190: He afterwards learned the Arabic language, and I + believe spoke it tolerably well when he quitted this country + and proceeded to Mekka.] + + One day he gave a _fte champtre_ at (_L'arsa Sultan_), the[191] +299 Sultan's garden, situated near a very picturesque rivulet, and + contiguous to springs of excellent water, which being collected in + a large tank, was conveyed by an aqueduct, which extended the + length of the garden, to immerge or irrigate the various beds of + flowers and plants. On his return home, as he was crossing the + river near the village of Diabet, a Shelluh shot a large fish as it + was passing the shallows, Seed Hellebee, or Seed Ali Bey admired + the dexterity of the Shelluh, (who, from his quickness, was + nicknamed Deib, i.e. the fox,) and desired him to take the fish to + his house at Mogodor, which he accordingly did, and received from + Ali Bey's secretary a handful of dollars. This Shelluh was a keen + sportsman, and seldom or never missed his shot: he generally + accompanied me in my shooting excursions, and he told me this + circumstance himself, adding, that Ali Bey was such a liberal man, + that, where any other gentleman gave a dollar, he gave a handful. + It was in this manner that Ali Bey purchased his popularity. + + [Footnote 191: This garden is in the province of Haha, about + five miles S.S.E. of Mogodor, and belongs to the European + Commerce, to whom it was presented by the Late Emperor Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah.] + + The governor of Mogodor, Alkaid Muhamed ben Abdsaddock now began to + suspect, not only the faith of this _soi disant_ Muhamedan, but + that he had some design unavowed; and desirous of ascertaining to + what nation of Christendom he belonged, the governor engaged + Monsieur Depras, a respectable French merchant of Mogodor, who + understood several languages, to ascertain if he was a Frenchman, +300 and if not, who and what he was. The governor, in order to enable + M. Depras to converse with Ali Bey, invited them both to tea; this + introduction being effected the next day, Depras called on Ali Bey, + and conversed with him during an hour in the French language, which + he spoke so well, that the former thought there was no doubt of his + being a Frenchman. But soon after this, the Spanish Consul was + announced, and being introduced, Seed Ali Bey changed his discourse + to Spanish, which he also spoke so correctly, that Depras now + altered his opinion, and conceiving him to be a Spaniard, took his + leave. He then reported to the governor what he had seen and heard, + that he spoke French and Spanish so fluently, that he really did + not know whether he was a Frenchman or a Spaniard. + + Ali Bey continued to live in a most sumptuous and costly style, and + afterwards resolved to visit Marocco. On his journey thither, he + was particularly inquisitive respecting the population, produce, + names and residencies of the (sheiks) chiefs of Haha and Shedma, + through which provinces he passed. On his arrival at Marocco, he + still continued his magnificent establishment and sumptuous mode of + living; distributing money to the people bountifully, on the most + trifling occasions, which mode of conduct procured him universal + popularity among the lower orders. This soon excited the suspicions +301 of Alkaid Bushta, the governor of Marocco, who ingenuously informed + him, that such liberality was fit only for a Christian country, and + that he was mistaken if he flattered himself that it would be + tolerated at Marocco, and actually desired him to adopt a different + and a more parsimonious system, if he wished to be quiet; alleging, + that his munificence exceeded that of his Imperial Majesty, which + was highly indecorous; but afterwards finding little attention was + paid to his injunction, he published a decree throughout the city, + that any one that should be found asking for, or receiving money + from Ali Bey, should have a very severe bastinado! After residing + some time at Marocco, he expressed a desire to visit the Atlas + mountains, which appear a few miles east of Marocco, but which are, + in fact, a whole day's journey; their immense size and height + making them to appear so much nearer than they really are. Ali Bey + apprehending the hostility of Alkaid Bushta, he procured an + imperial order to visit the Atlas, but Bushta opposed it, and would + not, he said, permit him, he being governor of Marocco, without + having himself directly from the Emperor a permission to that + purpose. He then represented to the Emperor the impolicy of + allowing him to go and examine that country; and the imperial order + was immediately countermanded. + + People now began to imagine that he was an agent of Bonaparte; and + their suspicion that he was a Christian spread far and near. It was +302 discovered also that he had corns on his feet, excrescences unknown + to Muselmen, whose shoes are made tight over the instep, and loose + over the toes, so that the latter being unconfined and at liberty, + they never have corns. + + Notwithstanding all these suspicions, the courtesy and suavity of + the manners of Ali Bey had such influence on the imperial mind, + that Muley Soliman gave him a beautiful garden to reside in, + wherein there was a (_kba_) pavilion. Ali Bey, finding his + influence considerable, erected with architectural taste several + edifices, suited, as he thought, to the imperial _gusto_, in which + he succeeded so well that his Imperial Majesty, when he returned + the next year to Marocco, resided almost exclusively in one of the + pavilions which he had erected. + + The splendour of the imperial favour did not however continue long; + for Ali Bey began now to be suspected by the Emperor himself, and + it was bruited that his renegadoes had acted treacherously towards + him. + + Ali Bey's knowledge of astronomy was peculiarly gratifying to the + Emperor. He could not altogether withdraw from him his attention. + The Emperor urged him to take unto himself a wife, and become an + useful member of society; but Ali objected, alleging various + motives for refusing. He was however at length prevailed on to + comply with the imperial injunction, and the Emperor gave him a +303 young girl to marry. It was anticipated that his new wife was a + political one, and would betray him to be an uncircumcised dog. The + wife, however, became extremely attached to him, and no information + could be procured from her to favour the plot that had been laid + for him. Various suspicions having increased respecting him, the + Emperor finally resolved that he should quit his territory; and an + order was issued that himself, his wife, and slaves should be + escorted to the port of L'Araich, and there embark for Europe. When + the military guard, however, had reached the port of L'Araich, the + boat being ready, Ali Bey was desired to embark, when, not + suspecting any stratagem, the boatmen pushed off, leaving his + disconsolate wife on the beach, bewailing his abrupt departure. The + lady appeared deeply affected with this sudden and unexpected + separation; and jumping out of the litter tore her dishevelled + hair, and distributed it to the winds, and with loud shrieks, which + pierced the air, demonstrated to him how sorely she lamented his + premature departure, and violent separation. His principal slave + was sold, by order of the Emperor's minister, to Seed Abdel'mjeed + Buhellel, a merchant of Fas, who was lately in London, and the + money was given to his wife. + + During his residence at Fas, he predicted an eclipse, and, having + foretold to the people of that city, that it would happen at such a +304 time, they waited for the event with considerable curiosity. Now + his knowledge of futurity had spread abroad with demonstrations of + amazement; the eclipse happened precisely at the time he had + predicted, which established his fame as an (_alem min alem_), a + man wiser than the wise. + + During the latter part of his residence in West Barbary, a report + prevailed that Bonaparte was preparing an immense army to invade + and subjugate the country. Ali Bey was not only suspected to be his + secret agent, but some persons were even ridiculous enough to + declare that he was Bonaparte himself in disguise; and accordingly + he was denominated _Parte_, for they would not add _Bona_, as that + word signifies good, in the _lingua franca_ of Barbary, and + Bonaparte, they said was not good, but a devil incarnate; so they + called him Parte. Last year I met in London the Moor who had + purchased Ali Bey's slave, and he told me that his son by the + before-mentioned wife lives at Fas; that he is a very amiable and + intelligent youth, about fifteen or sixteen years of age; and that + he is very poor, and would have starved, but for the charity and + protection of the highly respected fakeer of the city of Fas, Muley + Dris, under whose roof he resides, and is indebted to him for + protection and patronage. This man would be an acquisition to the + African Association, and means might be adopted to engage him in +305 their service to explore Sudan. + + _The Emperor's Attack of Diminet, in the Atlas_. + + The emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah levied a powerful army, and + took the field against Diminet, in the mountains of Atlas, east of + Marocco. The people of Diminet, and the territory of Berebbers, + east of that country, had also levied a strong force to defend + themselves. The Diminets were taken by surprise; for they had not + had intimation of an attack from Marocco. The Emperor himself, with + a few attendants disguised in the Berebber dress, advanced a few + miles ahead of the army. A party of mountaineers had received + orders from their sheik, (when the latter was informed that the + Emperor's army was coming against them,) to seek the Emperor, and + endeavour to kill him. They mistook the Emperor and his party for + Berebbers, as His Majesty spoke the language correctly, and had in + the early part of his life lived among them. "Where is the + Emperor's guard?" the mountaineers enquired; "for we are in search + of them: we hear he is coming to attack us, in our inaccessible + mountains; but we will be beforehand with him, and dispatch him + before he reaches us. Dost thou know where he is, or where his + guard is." "We do know," replied the Emperor; "for, about an hour + behind us, we passed a few men on horseback, among whom was the + Emperor; but the army is a long way behind: if you make speed, you + will soon pass him, and it will be an easy matter for you to put +306 the whole party to the sword, for they are not a dozen altogether." + The Berebbers, elated with this news, communicated from a party + whom they mistook for brethren of the neighbouring kabyl, rode off + at speed to seek their enemy, and in a short time found themselves + surrounded by the Emperor's army, who were scattered about in + ambush. These Berebbers were all secured, and were threatened with + torture if they would not discover where the army of their brethren + was, and what was their plan. The party discovered the plan and the + place of their encampment, which was not far off in recesses of the + mountain, and received a promise of remuneration if found correct. + By this discovery, the imperial army was enabled to surprise the + rebels; the latter were dispersed, and their houses burned. Thus + were they prevented from _harassing_ the Emperor's army, which is + their ordinary mode of warfare. To subjugate these people would be + impossible: it has often been attempted, but never succeeded. The + only lien the Emperor can get of them is, by having at court about + his person their sheik, whom he then makes answerable for the + obedience of the kabyl. + + _Moral Justice_. + + The imperial army being encamped in Temsena, on the confines of +307 Tedla, (see the map,) an Arab chieftain found that a friend of the + Emperor came into his _keyma_[192] at night, and took liberties + with his wife. The Arab suspected that he was (_shereef_) a prince, + and therefore did not dare to kill him, but preferred a complaint + to the Emperor. The Emperor was vexed to hear of such a gross + breach of hospitality, and asked what time he made his visits? "At + one hour after midnight," the Arab replied. Then, said the Emperor, + "when he comes, do you let me know by giving the watch-word to this + man, and he will then know what to do; and depend thou on my seeing + justice done to thee for the aggression." The marauder came; the + Arab repaired to the guard of the imperial tent, and gave the word; + the guard apprised the emperor, as he was directed, who personally + repaired to the tent of the Arab, and, being convinced of the fact, + ran the man through with his lance; this was done without a light. + The body was brought before the tent, and it was discovered to be + an officer of the imperial guard. The Emperor, on seeing that it + was not a shereef (a prince) prostrated himself in fervent prayer + for a considerable time. The courtiers who were all assembled by + this time to witness this extraordinary occurrence, wondered what + could induce the Emperor to be so fervent in prayer; which his + majesty observing, told them, "that he went alone to the tent, +308 thinking that nobody but a shereef would have dared to commit such + a breach of hospitality, in so open a manner; therefore he killed + him without having a light, lest, on discovering him to be a + prince, personal affection might give way to justice; but that when + he discovered that it was not a relation, he returned thanks to God + Almighty, that, in his determination to have justice administered, + he had not killed his own son!" + + [Footnote 192: _Keyma_ is the name for an Arab's tent; they are + made of goats' hair, and are black.] + + _Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers of Atlas_. + + March 10, 1797. The Sultan Soliman proceeds with a powerful army + against the warlike province of Shawiya, the rebellious Arabs' + retreat. The imperial army takes some of the women who are renowned + for personal charms. The army can get no food; and, being in danger + of starving, returns to Salee. The Arabs promise submission, in + hopes of having the women restored; but the Emperor's officers + violate them. The Arabs swear vengeance (_alia l'imin_[193]) by + their right hand. The emperor attacks them again, is repulsed, and + returns to Fas. + + [Footnote 193: _Alia l'imin_, swearing by the right hand, is a + sacred oath; and those who take it will not swerve from its + obligation, which is peremptory.] + + _Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans_. + + One of the Emperor's ministers, when an English fleet was cruising +309 off Salee, and just after some impost had been levied on the + merchandise already purchased and warehoused by the Christian + merchants, suggested the impolicy at that moment, of harsh measures + against Europeans: the Emperor, in a jocose manner, asked what harm + he could suffer from the fleets of Europeans? "They could destroy + your Imperial Majesty's ports," replied the minister. "Then I would + build them again for one-half what it would cost them to destroy + them. But if they dared to do that, I could retaliate, by sending + out my cruisers to take their trading ships, which would so + increase the premiums of insurance (for the (_kaffers_) infidels + insure all things on earth, trusting nothing to God[194]), that + they would be glad to sue for peace again." + + [Footnote 194: The Muhamedans abuse the Christians for their + mistrust of Providence, exemplified in their insuring ships, + merchandise, &c.] + + _Political Deception_. + + When an embassy is going to the Emperor, the alkaid of the escort + endeavours to make the present, which necessarily accompanies every + embassy, as bulky and conspicuous as possible, that the Arabs of + the kabyls through which they pass, may be dazzled and astounded + with the great appearance of the presents, which the alkaid + proclaims to consist chiefly of money, or treasure. The Arabs + accordingly observed, on Mr. Matra's (the British consul) presents, + that the English, who had conquered Bonaparte in Egypt, and were + masters of the ocean and seas, yet were tributary to the Sultan. + This idea is industriously propagated by the officers of the + Emperor's court. "Thinkest thou," they ohserved, "that these + Christians give such large presents with a free-will? Certainly + not! They are compelled to do so. The (_Romee_) Europeans are too + fond of money to give it away in such loads,--even the English, + thou seest, are tributary to the Seed." [195] + + [Footnote 195: A higher title among the _true Arabs_ than + Emperor: it implies conjointly, Emperor, Father of the People, + Protector, and Brother.] + + _Etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + + The European commerce of Mogodor went to pay their respects to the + Emperor Seedi Muhamed, on his arrival, from Fas, at Marocco, as is + customary. The Emperor's son, Muley El Mamune, was master of the + audience, and ordered the commerce to advance into the imperial + presence; and standing barefooted, as is the custom before the + Emperor, he requested the merchants to take off their shoes, as + _he_ had done; but they expostulated, and said it was not their + custom. The Prince, however, stopped them, and would not allow them + to approach the imperial presence without first submitting to this + ceremony. Seedi Muhamed, observing the impediment, and knowing the +311 cause, but willing at the same time to initiate the young prince in + the custom of foreign countries, called his son to him, and said, + "What do muselmen do, when they enter the _Jamaa_?"[196] "Revere + the holy ground, by entering barefooted," replied the prince.--"And + what do the Christians, when they enter their church?"--"They take + off their hats," rejoined the Prince. (_Allah e berk Amer + Seedi_,[197]) "God bless your Majesty's life."--"Then, what would + you more of these my merchants, than that they pay me, even the + same respect that they pay when they pray to _Allah_. Let them + approach uncovered, with their shoes on, which they never take off, + but to go to bed to rest". + + [Footnote 196: An Arabic or Korannick word, signifying, the + congregation of prayer, or mosque.] + + [Footnote 197: A term invariably used at court, in addressing + the Emperor.] + + * * * * * + + The province of Ait Atter, or the Atterites, in Lower Suse, is + considered as an independent province, and it pays no tribute. They + have a great dislike to _kadis_[198], _talbs_, and attornies, + alleging that they only increase disputes between man and man, + which is not at all necessary; all disputes are, therefore, decided + by the sheik, who is not a logical wrangler, but decides according +312 to the simplest manner. The following decree of their sheik is on + record:-- + + "Four men conjointly bought a mule, which for elucidation, we will + call A, B, C, and D: each claimed a leg. D's leg was the off-hind + one. In a few days this leg began to swell: it was agreed to cure + it by (_el keeh_) burning it with a hot iron, (a common remedy in + this country.) This done, the mule was turned out, and went into a + field of barley. Some spark was attached to the hoof, and set fire + to the corn, which was consumed. The proprietors of the barley + applied to the sheik for justice; and A, B, C, and D, the owners of + the mule, were summoned to appear. The sheik, finding the leg which + caused the barley to be burnt, belonged to D, ordered him to pay + the value of the barley. D expostulated, and maintained that he had + no right to pay; for, if it had not been for A, B, and C's portions + of the mule, the barley would have remained. "How so?" replied the + sheik. "Because," quoth D, "the leg which belongs to me cannot + touch the ground; but it was brought to the corn-field by the legs + of A, B, and C, which were the efficient cause of the ignition of + the barley. The sheik reversed his decree, and ordered A, B, and C + to pay the damage, and D got off without expense. + + [Footnote 198: _Kadis_, i.e. judges. _Talbs_, i.e. record + writers. _Kadi_ is generally spelt by the Europeans of the + south _Cadi_, because they have no K in their alphabet: the + Arabs have no C; the letter is _Kaf_ or K, not C.] + +313 + _Customs of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas, viz. of Idaultit_ + (_in Lower Suse_.) + + The mountains of Idaultit are inhabited by a courageous and + powerful people, strict to their honour and word, unlike their + neighbours of Elala. They make verbal contracts between themselves, + and never go to law, or record their contracts or agreements, + trusting implicitly to each other's faith and honour. If a man goes + to this country to claim a debt due, he cannot receive it while + there, but must first leave the country, and trust to the integrity + of the Idaultitee, who will surely pay when convenient, but cannot + bear compulsion or restraint. They do not acknowledge any sultan, + but have a divan of their own, called _Eljma_, who settle all + disputes between man and man. These people cultivate the plains, + when there is no khalif in Suse; but when there is, they retire to + the fastnesses in their mountains, and defy the arm of power; + satisfying themselves with the produce of the mountains. + + _Connubial Customs_. + + The (_shereef_) Prince Muley Bryhim, son of the present Emperor + Soliman, was married to the daughter of the bashaw Abdrahaman ben + Nassar, who was powerful and rebellious, and prevented the Emperor + for some time from proceeding to the south. This couple was married +314 in 1803. The bashaw died the same year; and in 1805 she was + divorced, and sent by the Emperor to Mogodor, with orders to a + sheik of Shedma to marry her, it being considered a degradation for + a prince to be united to the daughter of a rebellious subject. This + happened in January, 1806. The widow of the late Prince Muley + Abdrahaman, who rebelled against his father, and who was elder + brother to the Emperor Soliman, has been recently sent by the + Emperor to Bu Azar, a negro bashaw, and governor of the city of + Terodant, in Suse, to marry her. These marriages are promoted by + the royal decree, to prevent the females from contaminating the + royal blood by illicit connection, if they remain divorced, without + a new husband. + + _Political Duplicity_. + + A fakeer having interceded in behalf of a state prisoner, his + friend, who was confined in the island of Mogodor (the state prison + of the empire, except for princes, who are sent to Tafilelt), the + Emperor assured him he would release him; and urged the fakeer to + proceed to Mogodor, and wait there his Majesty's arrival. The + fakeer departed, and soon after his arrival at Mogodor, he learned + that the Emperor was not going there; but the alkaid of Mogodor + showed him a letter from the Emperor, ordering him to retain the + prisoner in safe keeping, and not attend to what the fakeer should + say. This system of breaking engagements and promises, is too often +315 denominated policy. "Dost thou think I am a Christian," said an + emperor to a prince who was expostulating with him for not + fulfilling his engagements,--"Dost thou think I am a Christian, to + be a slave to my word?" + + Senor P. a Spanish merchant, received a letter from the Emperor, + directed to the (_alkaid_) governor of Rabat, ordering him to show + Senor P. every attention, and to assist him if he should be + desirous of establishing a house at Rabat. Senor P. left the court + at Mequinas, well satisfied with his letter; but a few days after + his arrival, the alkaid told him he must embark and quit the + country in twenty-four hours, by the Emperor's order, which he + showed to Senor P. who could read Arabic. He was obliged to embark + immediately. + + _Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco_. + + If the Emperor should enquire about any person that has recently + died, it is not the etiquette to mention the word "death,"--a + muselmen is supposed never to die;--the answer is _Ufah Ameruh_, + "his destiny is closed," or "he has completed his destiny." To + which the following answer is invariably given--_Allah Erhammoh_, + "God be merciful to him." If a Jew's death is announced to any + muselman prince, fakeer, or alkaid, the expression is, _Maat hashak + asseedi_, "He is dead, Sir." _Ashak_ is an Arabic idiom, the exact + meaning of which cannot easily be conveyed in English; but it may +316 be assimilated to--"Pardon me for mentioning in your presence a + name contemptible or gross (as Jew)." Thus, for further elucidation + to the enquirer after the peculiarities of language, _Kie 'tkillem + ma el Kaba hashak asseedi_,--"He is talking with a prostitute--your + pardon, Sir, for the grossness of the expression." + + If a man goes to the alkaid, to make a complaint against any one + for doing any indecent act, and in relating the circumstance he + omits the word _hashak asseedi_, the persons present will interrupt + him thus,--_Kul hashak b'adda_, "Say _hashak_ before you proceed." + Blood, dung, dirt, pimp, procuress, prostitute, traitor, &c. &c. + are words that (in correct company) are invariably followed by the + qualifying word _hashak_. + + If a Christian is dead, the expression is _Mat el kaffer, or Mat el + karan, or Mat bel karan_, "The infidel is dead, the cuckold, or + the son of a cuckold is dead." + + _Food_. + + _Kuscasoe_ is, flour moistened with water, and granulated with the + hand to the size of partridge-shot. It is then put into a steamer + uncovered, under which fowls, or mutton, and vegetables, such as + onions, and turnips, are put to boil: when the steam is seen to + pass through the _kuscasoe_ it is taken off and shook in a bason, + to prevent the adhesion of the grains; and then put in the steamer + again, and steamed a second time. When it is taken off, some +317 butter, salt, pepper, and saffron, are mixed with it, and it is + served up in a large bowl. The top is garnished with the fowl or + mutton, and the onions and turnips. When the saffron has made it + the colour of straw, it has received the proper quota. This is, + when properly cooked, a very palatable and nutritious dish. + + _Hassua_ is gruel boiled, and then left over the fire two hours. It + is made with barley not ground into flour, but into small particles + the size of sparrow-shot. It is a very salubrious food for + breakfast, insomuch that they have a proverb which intimates that + physicians need never go to those countries wherein the inhabitants + break their fast with _hassua_. + + _El Hasseeda_ is barley roasted in an earthen pan, then powdered in + a mortar, and mixed with cold water, and drank. This is the + travelling food of the country--of the Arab, the Moor, the + Berebber, the Shelluh, and the Negro; and is universally used by + travellers in crossing the Sahara: the Akkabas that proceed from + Akka and Tatta to Timbuctoo, Houssa, and Wangara, are always + provided with a sufficient quantity of this simple restorative to + the hungry stomach. + + _The Woled Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the + Plains of Marocco_. + + This populous, powerful, and valiant kabyl, during the former part + of the reign of the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of +318 the present Emperor Soliman, occupied the plains west of the city + of Marocco (being an emigration from the Bedouin tribe of the same + name in the Sahara); but their depredatory disposition made + travelling through their territory unsafe; wherefore the Emperor, + after endeavouring in vain to make an example of them, issued a + decree that they should all to a man leave his dominions, and they + were driven by his army out of their country to the south, and + entered the Sahara. The whole kabyl was thus outlawed, so that they + were plundered and killed as they passed through the plains of + Fruga, Ait Musie, Haha, and Suse, by the natives of those countries + respectively. Not half the number that emigrated, (which was some + thousands,) reached the original clan in the Sahara. + + _The Koran, called also El Kateb el Aziz_. + + The word Koran conveys the same signification as _Bible_: it means + "the reading" or "the book;"--_kora_, "to read; "_el Kateb el + Aziz_, i.e. "the dear or beloved book," meaning thereby the + _Koran_. + + _Arabian Music_. + + The Sultan Seedi Muhamed, after hearing the musical band of the + Marquis de Vialli, ambassador from Venice, expressed his + gratification at the music of the Italians, and laconically + observed that it possessed more harmony than that of any other + nation, excepting his own. +319 + _Sigin Messa_. (_Sigilmessa_.) + + The country of Sigin Messa, called in the maps Sigilmessa, was the + state prison of the kingdom of Suse, when it formed a part of the + empire of Muley el Monsore, in the twelfth century of the Christian + era. Messa, a port in Suse, was then a large city, and the capital + of the kingdom of Suse. The state prisoners were sent to a place of + safe keeping, which was east of Tafilelt, and was therefore called + Sigin Messa, i.e. the prison of Messa. + + _Mungo Park at Timbuctoo_. + + In the month of March, 1806, a letter was received at Mogodor by + Seedi L'Abes Buhellal Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo. + This letter was in Arabic, and the following is an extract + literally translated from it by myself:-- + + "A boat arrived a few days since from the West at Kabra, having two + or three Christians in it. One was (_rajel kabeer_) a tall man, who + stood erect in the boat, which displayed (_shinjuk bied_) a white + flag. The inhabitants of Kabra did not, however, understand the + signal to be emblematic of peace, and no one went to the boat, + although it remained at anchor before Kabra the whole day, till + night. In the morning it was gone." + +320 _Troglodyt_. + + The Shelluhs of the Atlas, south-east of Santa Cruz, in Suse, + during the rainy season, from November till February inclusive, + live in caves and excavations in the rocks and earth; laying up + provisions sufficient for that period, until the snow begins to + melt. The Berebbers of North Atlas have followed the same custom + from time immemorial. + + _Police of West Barbary_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne, he gave indefatigable + attention to the police. He wished, he said, to make the roads safe + for travellers, from the Desert, or Sahara, to the shores of the + Mediterranean. He was vigilant in discovering thefts, and rigorous + in punishing them. If any one was robbed, he had only to report it + to the Emperor, who would forthwith order the douar where the + robbery was committed to restore the sum stolen, and to pay a fine + to the treasury of the same amount. By adhering strictly to this + system, he improved the revenue, and made travelling perfectly + safe; so that one may travel now (1805), without danger, with + property or money, from one end of the empire to the other. Before + this system of policy was renewed, (for it is an old law of the + land,) travellers with property were obliged to have a _statta_: + thus, if a caravan was going from Terodant or Marocco to Fas, it + took a _statta;_ that is, two men, natives of the district of +321 Rahamena, who accompanied the caravan in safety to the confines of + their territory; they then received a remuneration, and delivered + over the caravan to two men of Abda, who conducted it to the border + of Duquella: it was then delivered into the hands of two Duquella + Arabs; and so it went through the different provinces till it + reached Fas, under the protection, through each province, of a + _statta_, each of which _statta_ receives a remuneration. So that, + by the time of arrival at Fas, the merchandise was sometimes + subject to a charge of 8 or 10 per cent. for _statta_ or convoy + through the various provinces. + + Before the Emperor Soliman thus established his authority, caravans + of gums, almonds, ostrich feathers, gold-dust, &c. &c. from Suse, + were sometimes twenty days going from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, a + distance of less than one hundred miles, the _statta_ being changed + and paid at the entrance of every kabyl, of which there are twelve + in the province of Haha alone; the camels being also changed at + every change of _statta_, increased the charge on the merchandise + to an immoderate amount. It would be a great acquisition to + England, if His Majesty were to negociate with the Emperor of + Marocco for the port of Santa Cruz; for the province of Suse + produces in abundance olive oil, almonds, and gums; worm-seed, + annis-seed, cummin-seed, and orchilla; oranges, grapes, + pomegranates, figs, melons, &c. This port was farmed, during the + reign of Muley Ismael, for an annual stipend. It is the key to +322 Sudan, and a communication might be opened on an extensive scale + from hence with Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and other regions of + Sudan, so as to supply, in a few years, the whole of the interior + of Africa with British and East-India manufactures. + + _Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed_. + + This prince, who was elder brother of the present Emperor Soliman, + had accumulated considerable treasure in executing the office of + (_khalif_) viceroy of the provinces of Duquella, Abda, and Shedma. + His father, jealous of his son's power, when supported by a command + of treasure, had recourse to the usual means of transferring it to + the imperial treasury. It is held as law in this country, that + little is sufficient for every purpose of life. When property + becomes accumulated, it is alleged that more than a sufficiency is + derogatory of the principles laid down in the Koran, and ought to + revolve to the national treasury, there to be deposited as a fund + in reserve against the invasion of the country by the Europeans, an + event, which they are quite sure, from an ancient tradition, will + happen at no very distant period. + + Abdrahaman, however, equally avaricious with his father, objected + to deliver up his treasure; which so irritated the Sultan, that he + ordered a party of his negro soldiers to go to the Prince's house + and seize every thing valuable. These men, in their thirst for + plunder, out-ran their discretion, as it appears; for they +323 proceeded to examine the ladies in the Horem, putting their base + hands on their persons, under the pretence of discovering if they + had concealed their jewels and gold. This outrage roused the + Prince's indignation and he lost no time in absenting himself for + ever from his father's dominions, for this insult on his + dignity.--"If my father," said the Prince, "had taken my treasure, + it would have passed from my hands to his; but to permit the + ignoble hands of slaves to offer me such an indignity, is more than + I can or will suffer." Abdrahaman therefore emigrated to the + province of Lower Suse, on the confines of Sahara, where he + remained encamped, ready, upon any alarm, at a moment's notice, to + penetrate into the Desert. He had always two _heiries_ ready + saddled at the gate of his (_keyma_) tent; one for carrying his + treasure, viz. gold dust and jewels, and the other for himself to + ride, on any emergency. Many fakeers were sent from the Sultan to + the Prince; with the most solemn assurances of his reconciliation, + and with urgent solicitations to him to return; but the Prince + never forgave or forgot the insult. + + _Anecdote of Muley Ismael_. + + Muley Ismael compared his subjects to a bag full of rats.--"If you + let them rest," said the warrior, "they will gnaw a hole in it: +324 keep them moving, and no evil will happen." So his subjects, if + kept continually occupied, the government went on well; but if left + quiet, seditions would quickly arise. This sultan was always in the + tented-field: he would say, that he should not return to his palace + until the tents were rotten. He kept his army incessantly occupied + in making plantations of olives, or in building: rest and rebellion + were with him synonymous terms. + + Before the Portuguese transplanted their African colonies to South + America, they had penetrated far into West Barbary; they frequently + made incursions into the country from Mazagan to Marocco, and + eastward of that city. They had a church near Diminet, on the + declivity of the Atlas, about thirty-five miles east of Marocco, + which is still existing: it is a kind of sanctuary; the Berebbers + say it is haunted; they will not approach it. There is said to be + an inscription on the building in Roman characters, over the + entrance; but I never could ascertain what it is. + + _Library at Fas_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne there was a very + extensive and valuable library of Arabic manuscripts at Fas, + consisting of many thousand volumes. Some of the more intelligent + literary Moors are acquainted with events that happened formerly, +325 during the time of the Roman power, which Europeans do not possess. + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, was perfectly acquainted + with Livy and Tacitus, and had read those works from the library at + Fas. It is more than probable that the works of these authors, as + well as those of many other Romans and Greeks, are to be found + translated into the Arabic language, in the hands of private + individuals in West and in South Barbary. This library was + dispersed at the accession of Muley Soliman, and books commenting + on the Koran only were retained; the rest were burned or dispersed + among the natives. + + _Deism_. + + Deism was very prevalent throughout the empire. When the present + Emperor Soliman came to the throne, the deists went about in large + numbers, exclaiming, _La Allah ila Allah_, "There is no God but + God." The Emperor soon silenced these people, by proclaiming that + if any should be found uttering this truth, without adding, + "Muhamed is his prophet," should ([199]_ekul lassah_) be beat. The + sect soon disappeared. + + [Footnote 199: This punishment is inflicted by two men, one on + each side; the culprit is stretched naked on the ground, and + beat on the back unmercifully, with sticks two yards long, and + as thick as a finger.] + +326 + _Muhamedan Loyalty_. + + An alkaid of a district in the province of Abda, when that province + submitted to the Emperor, went to His Majesty, taking with him the + fruit of his government, viz. 100,000 dollars. He prostrated + himself before the Emperor, and announced that he had brought this + money to the Muselman treasury, being what he had collected since + the death of the Emperor's father. "I have lived splendidly, and + have never wanted any thing, or I should have brought Your Majesty + much more treasure." "You have been," said the Emperor, "a faithful + servant, and you shall be rewarded." He was promoted to a + government, and had many opportunities of refunding his loss. A + large sum was returned to him for his fidelity. + + _Cairo_. + + The city of El Kahira is called by Europeans Cairo. When Kairo was + founded, in the 359th year of the Hejra, the planet Mars was in + ascension; and it is Mars who conquers the universe: "therefore," + said Moaz, (the son of El Mansor) to _his_ son, "I have given it + the name of El-Kahira."[200] + + [Footnote 200: El Kahira is the Arabic for the planet Mars, and + signifies _victorious_.] +327 + _Races of Men constituting the Inhabitants of West and South + Barbary, and that Part of Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt and Sejin + Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the Territories of the present + Emperor of Marocco_. + + _The Moors_, who inhabit the towns on the coast, and the cities of + Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, and Terodant; who speak a corrupt Arabic + language. + + _The Berebbers_, who appear to be the Aborigines, and who retain + precisely the same character that was anciently given of the + Mauritanians by Sallust. These people inhabit the mountains of + Atlas, north of the city of Marocco, and have a language peculiar + to themselves. They are a hardy race of warriors, as artful as they + are indefatigable in war; when attacked by the imperial troops, + they defend themselves valiantly; and, by stratagem and device, + often surprise and defeat the Emperor's best troops, the _abeed + Seedy Bukaree_. They call the Negro and Arab troops of the Emperor, + (_mden el grudder_), a mine of deceit, and never trust to their + vows and promises, even if they swear by the Koran. They are a + restless turbulent race, and have never been conquered. They have + adopted the Muhamedan doctrines. + + _The Shelluhs_, or inhabitants of the Atlas, who dwell in houses in + the mountains south of Marocco, in the province of Haha, and in +328 part of Suse. These are a weaker race, not so athletic and robust + as the Berebbers. Their language has been represented to be similar + to that of the Berebbers, but that is evidently a mistake; I have + travelled through their country, and through the country of the + Berebbers, and have conversed with hundreds, nay, I may say, with + thousands of them: I have no hesitation in declaring them to be a + different race. Their language, costume, and habits differ; the + Shelluhs, however, possess the same art and duplicity with the + Berebbers. + + _The Arabs_, who live in _douars_ of tents, and inhabit the immense + plains west of the Atlas, are the agriculturists of the country. + They form the principal population of this terrestrial paradise; + they are for the most part emigrations from the Sahara, several + centuries ago, and speak the true Arabic language. These are a fine + race of men, possessing, in a superlative degree, some of the + noblest qualities of the human race. To these may be added + + _The Jews_, who wear a distinguishing costume, and a black cap; + they are all engaged in trade, and form one-seventh of the + population of the walled habitations. They are held in great + contempt, and are treated very rudely by the Arabs, and therefore + are seldom met with among the encampments of that people. + + A _douar_ is a village of tents; these tents are made of goats' and + camels' hair; they are made by the females, are of a close texture, +329 extremely warm, and impervious to the rain: thus they are cool in + the summer, and warm in the rainy season. In countries exposed to + the attacks of neighbouring kabyles, they are arranged in a + circular form, covering sometimes several acres of ground, having a + large keyma or Arab tent in the centre of the circle, which serves + for a _jamma_, or meeting for morning and evening prayers, and at + other times for an _emdursa_, or seminary, where the Muhamedan + youth are taught to read the Koran, and to write, as they call it, + (_Sultan men Elsen_) the sultan of languages, or language of + languages. The tent-pegs of the respective tents are indented + within each other, so that the cattle cannot go out or in; + moreover, a hedge of thorny bushes encircles the whole, secured by + staves drove into the ground. The camels, horses, mules, horned + cattle, sheep, and goats, are all inclosed in a division of the + circular area during the night, and a fire is kept all night, to + keep off the lions and wild beasts. The incessant barking of dogs, + which are very numerous among the Arabs, prevent the travellers + unaccustomed to these habitations from sleeping. + + _Various Modes of Intoxication_. + + All nations have some method of getting rid of reason, for the + purpose of indulging in the vacuum and temporary independence + produced by intoxication. We, of Europe, have recourse to wine to + effect this purpose: the opulent indulge in the libations of +330 claret, burgundy, and champagne; the middling classes have recourse + to brandy, rum, and gin; but the African effects this purpose at + far less expense. A muselman procures ample temporary relief from + worldly care for a mere trifle: he buys at the (_attara_), drug + shop, for a penny, a small pipe of _el keef or hashisha_; this + completely effects his purpose. The leaves of this drug, which is a + kind of hemp, are called _el hashisha_; the flower of the plant is + called _el keef_, and is much more powerful in its inebriating + quality than the _hashisha_, but a pipe of the latter will have as + powerful an effect as two or three bottles of wine. It is said, + that when the patient is under the influence of pleasant + imaginations, the fume of this drug increases the sensation into + the most pleasing delirium, engendering the most luxuriant images, + and promoting a voluptuous vacuum. But when the person's ill fate + tempts him to taste it in a melancholy mood, it protracts the + gloomy moments, and gives the woes of life a longer duration: he + utters sighs and lamentations, he apprehends nothing but misery and + misfortune, till the effect of the drug is exhausted, and he awakes + from his dream of woe. + + _Division of Agricultural Property_. + + Agricultural property is ascertained by a large stone laid at each + corner of a plantation of corn, a direct line is drawn from stone +321 to stone at the season of reaping; it has, perhaps, never been + known, that these partitions have been removed for the purpose of + encroachment; a mutual confidence, and a point of honour renders + this mode of discriminating the respective property of individuals + adequate to every purpose of hedge or ditch. + + _Mines_. + + The mountains that separate the province of Suse from that of + Draha, abound in iron, copper, and lead. Ketiwa, a district on the + declivity of Atlas, east of Terodant, contains also mines of lead + and brimstone; and saltpetre also, of a superior quality, abounds + in the neighbourhood of Terodant. In the same mountains, about + fifty or sixty miles south-west of Terodant, there are mines of + iron of a very malleable quality, equal to that of Biscay in Spain, + from which the people of Tagrasert manufacture gun-barrels, equal + to those made in Europe. At Elala in Suse, in the same ridge of + mountains, are several rich mines of copper, some of which are + impregnated with gold: they have also a rich silver mine, the metal + of which latter is cast in round lumps, weighing two or three + ounces each piece. I have bought of this silver at Santa Cruz, and + have paid Spanish dollars for it, weight for weight; it is very + pure. Mines of antimony and lead ore are also found in Suse, +332 impregnated with gold, some specimens of which I sent to England to + be analyzed; but being informed that it yielded gold sufficient + only to pay the expenses of purifying, I gave no farther attention + to it, although I have had reason to think, since then, that an + importation of the ore would amply pay the importer. + + _Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, called by the Arabs + Butelleese; and its Remedy_. + + During my residence at Santa Cruz, I had a cousin with me who was + afflicted with this disorder. When the sun sat his blindness came + on, and continued till the rising sun. This youth was so afflicted, + during a month, with this disorder, that he could scarcely see his + way with a candle in his hand, so that it was quite painful to see + him groping about. An Arab of the Woled Abbusebah Kabyl, who retain + much of the science and art of their ancestors, and whose + prosperity I had promoted at Santa Cruz, by facilitating his + commercial adventures, communicated to me a simple remedy for this + disorder; I put no faith in it, for it was so simple that I was + disposed to think it an illusion. He called on me, however, + repeatedly, and finding I had not applied it, he brought it one + morning himself, and urged me to try it, I did so; and that same + evening the eyes of the youth were almost well, and his sight was +333 completely restored the following night. This ophthalmic affection, + in an Arabic translation of Hippocrates, is called _Butelleese;_ + another translation of ancient date calls it _Shebkeret:_ the name, + however, by which it is known at the present day in Africa, is + _Butelleese:_ the Latins called it _Lusciosus_, which word denotes + precisely the disease, viz. one who sees imperfectly in the morning + and evening twilight, but whose vision is clear at broad day-light. + _Lusciosus ad lucernam non videt. Vesperi non videre quos lusciosos + appellant_. Plaut. Mil. Gl. ii. 3. + + This ophthalmia has been by some denominated _hen-blindness_, from + the circumstance of hens' eyes being thus affected, when they are + unable to see to pick up small grains in the dusk of the evening. I + have frequently seen fowls thus affected soon after going to sea, + from the coast of Africa, after which they decline and grow sick. A + quantity of small gravel should be spread in their coops at sea, + which prevents this disorder, and will sometimes cure it. At the + commencement of this complaint, the circumstance that first engages + the patient's attention is the dimness of his eye-sight at + twilight: the nocturnal dimness of vision was such, in the instance + before-mentioned, that the youth could scarcely see, even with a + candle in his hand, which he described, as seen by him, as if it + were misty, or as glimmering in a thick fog. There was no external + disfiguration visible in the eyes, but they appeared as usual. +334 + What the cause of this disorder was I am unable to say; but I have + often suspected that it was contracted from the shining of the sun + on the white terras of the house where my cousin used to go of a + morning to shoot _tibeebs_, a bird somewhat resembling the European + sparrow. This youth was rather of a weak or delicate constitution. + I did not repeat the above remedy, as the boy's eyes continued + well, without any defect in the vision at any time of the day or + night, till seven-and-twenty days had elapsed, when the disorder + returned. I procured the remedy again, and he took it; it had the + same effect as before; he took it again, and then continued well + for a month. It again returned a third time, and was cured by one + single administration, after which it entirely disappeared, and + never returned. Some time after this, I was informed that the + British fleet in the Mediterranean was affected with this disorder; + that one-tenth, or more, of the crews of our ships had laboured + under it; and, on my return to England, I was urged to represent to + His Majesty's ministers, that I had an infallible remedy for the + disorder. I was referred to Doctor Harness, of the Transport Board. + I waited on the Doctor, and afterwards corresponded with him. He + appeared very desirous of knowing the remedy; but he was not at + liberty to grant me any remuneration for it. I, however, offered to + discover it, on being reimbursed the sum which the remedy cost me, +335 on experimental proof being produced of its infallibility; which + proposition was rejected by the Transport Board in August, 1812, + who informed me at the same time, that the Lords Commissioners of + the Admiralty did not judge proper to grant the sum required by me + for the discovery of the remedy for Nyctalopia, which, I should + add, was between 500_l_. and 600_l_. The remedy, therefore, remains + a secret to this day. + + A celebrated electrician and galvanist having conversed with me + lately respecting this remedy for Nyctalopia, suggested to me the + probability, that the same remedy might be effectual also in _gutta + serena_, as both those disorders are known to proceed from a defect + in the optic nerve. This opinion he corroborated, by quoting, in + confirmation of it, the opinion of a well-known author. The + electrician perceiving my incredulity, or more properly, my + ignorance of the wonderful connection that exists between the + intestines and the head, was prompted, as I verily believe, by a + philanthropic disposition; and actually proved to me, + experimentally, the influence which the eyes have on the + intestines, and _vice versa_. A patient with a _gutta serena_, who + had been, as he informed me, twelve months under the hands of a + celebrated oculist, was recommended by the latter, as a last + resource, to try galvanism. He had received no benefit whatever + whilst under the direction of the oculist above alluded to, but his + intestines were intolerably deranged by the effects of the mercury +336 which he had taken. This gentleman galvanised his eyes, and the + man, who is a gunsmith, told me, that when he first went to have + the operation performed, he could not see the red border round the + hearth-rug in the front parlour, but when he returned into that + room, after having been galvanised, he assured me he saw it + plainly. He moreover declared that his bowels had been, and then + were, in a very deranged state, from the effects of the mercury + which he had taken, but that he felt incredible relief after having + been galvanised, and that, two or three days afterwards, they were + quite restored to health and strength. Being thus satisfied with + the influence that so wonderfully exists between the intestines and + the eyes, I am now making arrangements with the same gentleman, to + administer the remedy for the benefit, _as we hope_, of patients + afflicted with _gutta serena_. But I now declare to the public a + third time, that the remedy is simple, safe, and effectual, and + that I am ready and desirous of administering it to any one who may + choose to apply for it, who is afflicted with the disorder, with my + positive assurances, that it will effect a cure in eight-and-forty + hours at the utmost, but probably in twenty-four. + + _Vaccination._ + + Intelligence received from West Barbary was instrumental in +337 promoting the adoption of vaccination. In the latter years of the + last century, the small-pox pervaded West and South Barbary. Mr. + Matra, the British consul-general to the Empire of Marocco, wrote + to me at that period officially, to procure him every information + possible, and to inform him if I could discover if cattle in this + country were subject to the small-pox. I made every inquiry without + delay, and I reported to His Excellency, (who was ambassador as + well as consul), that I had ascertained that the horses, mules, + asses, and oxen were subject in this country to the small-pox, of + which there could be no doubt, as the name given to the disorder in + the beasts of the field, was the same as that which designated the + small-pox in the human species, viz. JEDRIE. In consequence of this + information, confirmed afterwards by other enquiries, His + Excellency wrote to England on the subject, and, I believe, sent + some vaccine pus home; soon after which Dr. Jenner began his + experiments on vaccine inoculation, which have since been adopted + throughout Europe, and in great part of Asia and America. Although + I was thus instrumental in the propagation of vaccine inoculation, + yet I never asked for or received any remuneration; but I feel a + satisfaction in having been thus instrumental of good to mankind, + in this new and eligible system of inoculation, by means of which + human life has been preserved; for, according to Sir Gilbert +338 Blane's late statement, 23,134 lives have been saved during the + last 15 years by vaccination. + + _Game_. + + All kinds of game are plentiful in South and in West Barbary; viz. + _el gror_, a bird somewhat similar to the English partridge, but + unknown in Europe. I shot some of these birds for Doctor Brussonet, + the naturalist, who was intendant of the national garden of botany + at Montpelier, which that gentleman prepared in the oven, and sent + to the National Institute at Paris. He informed me this bird was a + non-descript. Hares, antelopes, woodcocks, snipes, plovers, + bustards. There is an abundance of partridges, red ducks as large + as geese, ducks, wigeon, and teal; curlews, in immense quantities, + are found in the flat parts of the country on the coast; immense + quantities of doves, wild pigeons, wood-pigeons, and large + sand-larks. Every person is at liberty to shoot; but the princes + and the great, consider field-sports beneath their dignity, except + hawking, and hunting the wild boar, the lion, and the tiger. The + Muhamedans do not prefer game to other food. When they have shot a + bird, they immediately cut its throat, that the blood may flow + freely; otherwise it is not lawful to eat it. Game is never seen in + the public markets. When they shoot for Europeans, they dispense + with the ceremony of cutting the throat of the game. They reproach + the Christians for eating such food, which they call (_m'jeefa_) + "strangled." +339 + _Agriculture.--Mitferes._ + + The agriculturists, in all the Arab provinces throughout this + empire, have subterraneous caverns or apartments, generally in the + form of a cone, for the preservation of their corn during a + scarcity or famine. During my residence in this country, I have + investigated the method, and have learned the art of constructing + these depositories of grain. They season them before the corn is + deposited. They should not be constructed in a clay soil. In these + _mitferes_, throughout the Arab provinces of Duquella, Temsena, + Shawiya, &c. they preserve the corn sound during thirty years. I + have been present at the opening of them after the corn had been + deposited twenty-one years. It was perfectly sound. When these + depositories are opened, each family takes a portion of the grain, + so as to distribute the whole immediately; otherwise, in a few + months, if not consumed, it acquires a peculiar bad flavour, which + is called the _mitfere_ _twang_. To prevent this, an Arab, on + opening one of these depositaries, lends corn to all his + neighbours, and in his turn he receives it back again, when they + respectively open theirs. It is unnecessary to expatiate on the + expediency of constructing _mitferes_ in a country oftentimes + visited by locusts, the plague, drought, or inundation. There would + be a manifest policy in establishing similar granaries in our +340 colony in South Africa, where I understand they are visited by + locusts, and where the soil is similar to that of West and South + Barbary. All the valuable gums that Barbary now supplies Europe + with, and also many articles of commerce not yet known at the Cape, + might be procured from Barbary, and if transplanted to that colony, + would undoubtedly thrive, from the similarity of climate and soil. + + _Laws of Hospitality_. + + The territory of the Emperor of Marocco, west of the mountains of + Atlas, and from the shores of the Mediterranean to the confines of + the Shelluh province of Haha, is one continual corn-field, + inhabited by Arabs living in douars or encampments: much of the + ground, however, lies fallow. These encampments are fixed generally + at a considerable distance from the track of travellers, so that a + person unacquainted with this circumstance, would be disposed to + imagine the country thinly inhabited. The tents in safe countries, + where there is no fear of wild beasts, are pitched in a straight + line; but where lions or other ferocious animals are found, the + tents are disposed in a circular form; and thorny bushes are placed + round the douar, to prevent the visits of these unwelcome guests. + The Arabs are the agriculturists of the country, and are for the + most part emigrations from the original stock in Sahara. These + people have preserved from time immemorial the practice of open and +341 unrestrained hospitality. Their prophet confirmed these + propensities; and hospitality has been ever since, the predominant + virtue of the Arab. Accordingly, Muhamedans are entitled, through + their various journeys, to be entertained three days wherever they + sojourn. A traveller, therefore, when he chooses to rest from the + fatigue of his journey, goes to one of these douars and exclaims + (_Deef Allah_) "the guests of God." The sheik then comes forth from + his tent to receive him or them: (_Kheyma Def_) the travellers' or + guests' tent is appropriated to the stranger; food is brought to + him, agreeably to his rank in life, but always simple, good, and + wholesome. Here he may remain, if he chooses, for three days, + without being considered an intruder, and free of all expense + whatsoever. If he wishes to exceed the three days allowed by the + Muhamedan law, he must prove his poverty; which being done, he may + be entertained for a further period of time: but this latter is + quite optional; no man is compelled to entertain and provide food + for strangers and travellers, without remuneration, above three + days. + + This hospitality extends not generally to all mankind, but to + Muhamedans only. A Christian or a Jew would be expected to pay a + trifle for his entertainment; although, in travelling through the + province of Suse, the Arabs have absolutely refused to take any + remuneration from me; but, that is not generally the case, nor +342 ought such conduct to be expected: in the instances + before-mentioned, these people considered themselves so much + benefited by the opening of the port of Santa Cruz, that they + thought they could not do enough for me. I was, therefore, every + where received in that province with the most cordial marks of + disinterested hospitality. + + The laws of hospitality are sacred and inviolable. This I will + elucidate, by relating a circumstance that happened while I was at + Marocco. The Emperor was dissatisfied with the conduct of four + sheiks of Suse: they had not discharged the duties of their public + vocation, but had abused their office; the Emperor had issued + orders to arrest them, but by some means they got intelligence of + the orders; they therefore immediately ordered their horses, and + decamped in the evening from Marocco: they knew they should not be + safe any where from the Emperor's grasp, but under the protection + of the Khalif Muhamed ben Delemy, whom, however, they had in some + manner injured; nevertheless, knowing the noble character of the + man, they were resolved to try their fate; accordingly, they made + haste to reach the gates of his castle in Shtuka, before the + Emperor might discover their departure. They arrived, and + exclaiming _Deef Allah_, they were admitted. Delemy told them, that + although they had not behaved friendly to him, he would protect + them. His gates, he said, were always open to the children of +343 adversity, and they might depend on his protection. The Emperor + soon discovered, by diligent enquiry, what route they had taken, + and His Imperial Majesty urged Delemy to deliver them up; but the + latter expostulated, and observing that he should not deserve the + name of an Arabian sheik, if he degraded himself by giving up those + who had claimed his protection, in his own country: and he actually + granted them protection several months; till, at length, finding + they could not escape the hand of power, by any plan but that of + going into the Sahara, Delemy agreed to see them safe out of the + Emperor's dominions, and accompanied them to Akka, and beyond that + place, till they reached the Sahara, where, being perfectly safe, + he took his leave of them, and they exchanged _Salems_. + + _Punishment for Murder._ + + If a man commits murder, the friends of the murdered claim redress + of the alkaid, if in a town,--of the bashaw of the province, if in + the country. If the murderer is discovered, he is taken into + custody, to suffer death, unless the relations of the murdered man + choose to compromise with the relations of the murderer: in which + case, a sum of money is paid to the former, and the matter is thus + settled. + + _Insolvency Laws._ + + An insolvent cannot be detained in prison after his insolvency is + ascertained. He gives up his property to his creditors; but if he +344 should afterwards become a man of substance, his creditors can + claim the amount of their debts, deducting what they have already + received. + + _Dances_. + + The dances of the Arabs are peculiar to themselves. The youths + dance without females, and the females without youths. On all + marriages and rejoicings, music and dancing continue till the dawn + of day. Among the encampments of Arabs, in the summer season, the + whole country, at night, is in a blaze of light. The kettle-drum, + the triangle, the shepherd's pipe, and the _erbeb_ an instrument + resembling the fiddle, with two strings, form the band of music. + + The youths form a double row of six or eight in each, and carry + themselves erect, with their arms hanging down close to their side; + moving obliquely to the right, then to the left, without taking + their feet from the ground, but moving their heels, then their toes + on the ground, advancing or gliding slowly along; keeping exact + time with the music: they then vault in the air, perform somersets + and various feats of agility. They sing also with great taste and + judgment, and some of them have excellent voices, being selected + for the purpose of affording entertainment to the spectators. The + ladies dance also in a similar manner, but without the vaulting and + somersets. They have a very elegant shawl-dance, which some of them + dance with great taste, and with much graceful movement. +345 + _Circumcision._ + + The circumcision of male children is the general practice of + Islaemism; it is also used among some of the[201] _Khaffers_ or + _Cafers_ of North, Central, and South Africa. Circumcision is not a + practice ascribed to a principle of cleanliness, or any other + cause, but ancient usage. The period of performing this operation + among the Arabs is at the age of eight years. + + [Footnote 201: _Khaffer_ (singular number) is an Arabic term, + applied to all who are not Muhamedans; all Pagans, Jews, and + Christians, are called _Khaffer_, _K'fer_ (plural) _Kaffir + billa_, an atheist: hence Caffraria, the name of the country + near the Cape of Good Hope.] + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz._ + + Transport of ([202]_Alk Sudan_) gum of Sudan, bought at Timbuctoo, + on account of Messrs. James Jackson and Co. by their agent, L'Hage + Muhamed O----n, and dispatched to Akka by the spring (_akkaba_) + accumulated caravan, in February, 1794. + + M. Doll + + 200 camel loads of gum-sudan, each + weighing 250 lb. net, bought at + Timbuctoo, at four Mexico dollars + per load, 800 +346 + _Charges._--Cow-skins to pack it in, sticks + to stow it on the camels, &c. 25 + + 200 camels hired to Akka, at 18 Mexico + dollars each, 3600 + + Stata, _i.e._ convoy through the Sahara, + from Timbuctoo to Arawan, at 20 + cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from Arawan to East Tagrassa, at + 20 cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from East Tagrassa to Akka, at + 40 cents per camel, 40 + + 20 per cent., or one-fifth, on the first + cost, to be allowed to the purchaser + on safe arrival at Akka, 160 + ---- + 4705 + + [Footnote 202: This gum is the produce of an enormous tree of + Sudan, which flourishes near Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and + Bernoh (or Bernou) it is transported by the caravans to + Alexandria in Egypt, to Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers. From the + African ports in the Mediterranean it is shipped to Smyrna and + Constantinople, and from thence to England, under the + denomination of Turkey gum; some goes to Mogodor and Tetuan, + and thence to London.] +347 + The adventure is subject to this charge, provided it arrive safe at + Akka, not otherwise, as also to encourage the agent at Timbuctoo, + to exert himself in procuring trusty guides and competent statas, + which he would not do, without having a certain interest in the + safe delivery. + + _N.B._ No stata is necessary from Akka to Santa Cruz, but the hire + is 3 dollars per camel. + + _Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, which accompanied the + foregoing Consignment._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is nothing durable but the + kingdom of heaven. + + To the Christian merchant, Jackson, at Agadeer. Peace be to those + who follow the right way. + + This being premised, know that I have sent you by this akkabah, two + hundred camel load of gum-sudan, agreeable to the account herewith + transmitted. The stata will be paid by my friend, L'Hage Aly, sheik + of Akka, whom I request you will reimburse according to the account + which I have sent to you by him; and if he goes to Agadeer, be + kind, friendly, and hospitable to him on my account, for he stands + high in my esteem; and peace be with you. + + Written at Timbuctoo, 10th of the month Muharram, year of the Hejra + 1208, (corresponding with 15th Feb. A.C. 1794). By your friend, + + L'HAGE MUHAMED O----N. + God be merciful to him. + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Fas_. + + Transport of gold, gum, and cottons, from Timbuctoo to Fas, + consigned to L'Hage Seyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely, Timbuctoo + merchants at Fas, by (_akkaba el Kheriffy_) the autumnal caravan. + Dispatched 29th Duelhaja el Hurem, year 1204, corresponding with + 10th October, A.C. 1790. + + 500 skins (_Tibber Wangree_) gold dust of Wangara, each skin + containing 4 ounces, bought on their account, in barter for 800 + Flemish plattilias. + + 100 (_Sibikat deheb Wangaree_). Wangara gold in bars, weighing 20 + ounces each, bought in exchange for 400 pieces (_Shkalat_) Irish + cloth, averaging 44 cubits each piece (7 cubits are equal to 4 + English yards). +348 + 10 bed-covers, 9 cubits long, 4 wide, chequered pattern, blue and + white cotton, with scarlet silk between the chequers, manufactured + at Timbuctoo, bought in barter for 100 lb. sugar, 30 loaves. + + 50 camel-load gum-sudan, weighing net 120 quintals. + + _Charges_.--Hire of 50 camels to Akka, at 18 dollars each. + + Stata to ditto, 1 dollar per load, to be paid by Sheik Aly ben + A----r. + + _Copy of the Letter accompanying the foregoing Remittance._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength, without God, the eternal God. + + To my friends, L'Hage Zeyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely. Peace + be with ye, and the mercy of the High God; and after that, know, + that I have sent to our agents at Akka, by the autumnal caravan, 50 + camel loads of gum-sudan, being 100 skins; in each skin of gum I + have packed 5 skins of gold dust, and 1 bar of gold. L'Hage Tahar + ben Jelule will deliver to our agent at Akka, for you, 10 very + handsome cotton covers for beds, of Sudan manufacture. May all this + arrive safe, with the blessing of God. I will inform you by the + spring caravan what merchandize to send here next autumn. I refer + you to a long letter, which I have sent to you by L'Hage Tahar. + Peace be with you, and the blessing of God be upon you. +349 + Written at Timbuctoo, the 29th Duelhaja El Huram, year 1204. + + L'HAGE HAMED ELWANGARIE. + [203]God protect him. + + + [Footnote 203: The Muhamedans, in signing their name, always + invoke the protection, mercy, or providence of God upon + themselves.] + + _Food of the Desert._ + + The people, whose interest induces them to cross the desert, (for + there are no travellers from curiosity in this country,) obviate + the objection to salt provisions, which increases the propensity to + drink water, by taking with them melted butter, called _smin_; this + is prepared without salt. They also cut beef into long pieces, + about six inches long, and one inch square, without fat; these are + called _el kuddeed_, which are hung on a line, exposed to the air + till dry; they then cut them into pieces, two inches long; these + are put into (_buckul_) an earthen pot; they then pour the _smin_ + into the _buckul_ till it is covered. This meat and butter, besides + being palatable, is comprised in a small compass, and feeds many. + When this butter has been thus prepared and kept twelve or fifteen + years, it is called _budr_, and is supposed to contain penetrating + active medicinal qualities. I have seen some thirty years old. + + _Antithesis, a favourite Figure with the Arabs._ + + Mahmoud, sultan of Ghezna in the beginning of the eleventh century, +350 though the son of a slave, was very powerful. He sent to the khalif + Alkader, requesting a title suited to his exalted dignity. The + latter hesitated; but fearing the power of the sultan, sent him at + the expiration of a year the ambiguous title, _Uly_, i.e. a prince, + a friend, a slave. Mahmoud penetrated the khalif's meaning, and + sent him immediately 100,000 pieces of gold, with a wish to know + whether a letter had not been omitted. Alkader received the + treasure, and took the hint, instantly dispatching letters patent + in full form, creating him _Uly_ which signifies, without + equivocation, a sovereign independent prince. + + _Arabian Modes of Writing_. + + The Arabs have various modes of writing, the principal of which is + that used by the Koreish, the most learned of all the Western + tribes, and is denominated the _Niskhi_, or upright character: if + this is understood, the others may be easily comprehended. This is + the character in which the Koran was originally written. In the + seventh century, the Arabs adopted the invention of Moramer ben + Morra, a native of Babylonian Irak, which was afterwards improved + by the Kufik. The Kufik and the Niskhi are synonymous. Richardson, + in his Arabic Grammar, p. 4. say, "The Mauritannick character, + which is used by the Moors of Marocco and Barbary, descendants of +351 the Arabians, differs in many respects _considerably_ from the + other modes of writing." But this is incorrect; for the + Mauritannick alphabet, excepting in the order of the letters, is + precisely the same with the Oriental, as now written and spoken, + with the exception only of the letters _Fa_ and _Kaf_, and the + formation even of these characters are alike. The punctuation only, + differs in the West, that is, west of the Egyptian Nile. The + Western punctuation of _Fa_, is one point below the letter, and the + punctuation of the letter _Kaf_ is one point above. In the East, + the former letter has one point above, the latter has two. This is + the only difference between the Eastern and the Western alphabets. + Richardson, (see his Grammar, page 5,) also says, that "the purest + Arabic is spoken at Grand Cairo," but this is not correct: the + language of Grand Cairo and of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and Marocco + are much alike, but none of them are the pure Koraisch or Korannick + Arabic, which is only spoken at Mekka, and among some of the tribes + of Bedouins in the West. The language of the Woled Abbusebah, of + the Howara, and of the Mograffra is the pure Arabic. Finally, in a + note in Richardson's Grammar, page 18, it is said, "Some of our + European writers, and amongst others Voltaire, substitute _Koran_ + for _Alcoran_, but perhaps improperly, as D'Herbelot and other + learned Orientalists, write uniformly _l'Alcoran, il Alcorano_, the + Alcoran." We have been too apt to copy the orthography of Oriental + names from the French, whose pronunciation of the Roman or European +352 characters differs from ours. There cannot be a doubt that + D'Herbelot is incorrect. The word _Koran_ (for there is no _c_ in + the Arabic language) is derived from the verb _Kora_, to read; + _koran_, reading: _Al_ is the article; but, in this instance, + D'Herbelot uses this article twice, which is certainly erroneous, + for _l'_ is the French article in the word in question, and _al_ is + the Arabic article; whereas _one_ article only should precede a + noun. _L'Alcoran_ and the _Alcoran_ are therefore equally + incorrect; for the word in French should be _Le Coran_; in English, + _the Koran_; therefore Voltaire was correct. I have thought it + expedient to make these observations, because standing in + Richardson's Grammar on the authority of _learned orientalists_, + they are calculated to mislead the Arabic student. + + _Decay of Science and the Arts among the Arabs_. + + The literary fire of the Arabs and Persians has been extinguished + upwards of 300 years; but before that period, the encouragement to + learning in the East was unprecedented, and has never been equalled + by any European nation either before or since that period. Kadder + Khan, king of Turquestan, was the greatest support to science. When + he appeared abroad, he was preceded by 700 horsemen, with silver + battle-axes, and was followed by an equal number bearing maces of + gold. He supported with magnificent appointment a literary academy +353 in his palace, consisting of 100 men of the highest reputation. + Amak, called Abu Nib El Bokari, who was the chief poet, exclusive + of a great pension and a vast number of slaves, had, in attendance + wherever he went, thirty horses of state richly caparisoned, and a + retinue in proportion. The king before-mentioned used to preside at + their exercises of genius, on which occasions, by the side of his + throne were always placed four large basons filled with gold and + silver, which he distributed liberally to those who excelled. + + Lebid suspended over the gate at Mecca a sublime poem; Muhamed + placed near it the opening of the second chapter of the Koran, + which was conceived to be something divine, and it gained the prize + of the _Ocadh_ assembly. + + The remains of this custom of suspending over gates Arabic poems, + is perceived at this day among the western Moors. The gates or + entrances to Mogodor, Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, &c. have writing over + them, which is a kind of Arabic short-hand, that none but the + learned understand; these writings, however, are not moveable, + being engraven on a square table on the stone itself. + + _Extraordinary Abstinence experienced in the Sahara_. + + The Arabs or inhabitants of the Sahara, can support the most + extraordinary abstinence. Occasions occur, wherein they will travel +354 several days without food. After suffering a privation of a day or + two, they tie their (_hazam_) belt round their loins, every morning + tighter than the preceding day, thereby preventing, in some + measure, that action of the bowels which promotes appetite. A + Saharawan will thus go five or six days without food of any kind, + in which case, when he reaches a habitation, or a (_wah_) + cultivated spot in the Desert, he will drink about half-a-pint of + camel's milk; this remains on the stomach but a short time: he then + takes another draught, which, with some, remains and gives + nourishment, but with others _it_ is also rejected by the stomach; + _a third draught is then taken, which restores the exhausted + traveller!_ I have been assured, that instances have been known in + Sahara, wherein a man has been without food of any kind for seven + days, and has afterwards been restored by the foregoing regimen! + +355 + + LANGUAGES OF AFRICA. + + _Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the + Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the + Mandinga.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the + Canary Islands, and Similitude of Customs_. + + + + + Yareb, the son of Kohtan[204], is said to have been the first who + spoke Arabic, and the Muhamedans contend that it is the most + eloquent language spoken in any part of the globe, and that it is + the one which will be used at the day of judgment. To write a long + dissertation on this copious and energetic language, would be only + to repeat what many learned men have said before; a few + observations, however, may not be superfluous to the generality of + readers. The Arabic language is spoken by a greater proportion of + the inhabitants of the known world than any other: a person having + a practical knowledge of it, may travel from the shores of the + Mediterranean Sea to the Cape of Good Hope, and notwithstanding + that in such a journey he must pass through many kingdoms and + empires of blacks, speaking distinct languages, yet he would find +356 men in all those countries versed in Muhamedan learning, and + therefore acquainted with the Arabic; again, he might cross the + widest part of the African continent from west to east, and would + every where meet with persons acquainted with it, more particularly + if he should follow the course of the great river called the Neel + El Abeed, on the banks of which, from Jinnie and Timbuctoo, to the + confines of lower Egypt, are innumerable cities and towns of Arabs + and Moors, all speaking the Arabic. Again, were a traveller to + proceed from Marocco to the farthest shore of Asia, opposite the + islands of Japan, he would find the Arabic generally spoken or + understood wherever he came. In Turkey, in Syria, in Arabia, in + Persia, and in India, it is understood by all men of education; and + any one possessing a knowledge of the Korannick Arabic, might, in a + very short time, make himself master of all its various dialects. + + [Footnote 204: This Kohtan is the Joktan, son of Eber, brother + to Phaleg, mentioned in Genesis. Chapter x, verse 25.] + + The letters of this language[205] are formed in four distinct ways, + according to their situation at the beginning, middle, or end of + words, as well as when standing alone; the greatest difficulty, + however, to be overcome, is the acquiring a just pronunciation, + (without which no living language can be essentially useful;) and + to attain which, the learner should be able to express the + difference of power and sound between what may be denominated the +357 synonymous letters, such as [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] with [A] + and [A] with [A] and [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] + with [A] and [A] and [A] with [A]. + + [Footnote 205: The Oriental punctuation is here adopted.] + + [Footnote A: Arabic character; cannot be displayed in this + file format.] + + Besides these, there are other letters, whose power is extremely + difficult to be acquired by an European, because no language in + Europe possesses sounds similar to the Arabic letters [Arabic:], nor + has any language, except, perhaps, the English, a letter with the + power of the Arabian [A]. Those who travel into Asia or Africa + scarcely ever become sufficiently masters of the Arabic to speak it + fluently, which radical defect proceeds altogether from their not + learning, while studying it, the peculiar distinction of the + synonymous letters. _No European, perhaps, ever knew more of the + theory of this language than the late Sir William Jones, but still + he could not converse with an Arabian;_ a circumstance of which he + was not conscious until he went to India. This great man, however, + had he been told that his knowledge of this popular eastern + language was so far deficient, that he was ignorant of the separate + powers of its synonymous letters, and consequently inadequate to + converse intelligibly with a native Arab, he would certainly have + considered it an aspersion, and have disputed altogether that such + was the fact. Considering how much we are indebted to the Arabians +358 for the preservation of many of the works of the ancients, which + would otherwise have never, perhaps, been known to us, it is really + surprising, that their language should be so little known in + Europe. It is certainly very difficult and abstruse, (to learners + particularly,) but this difficulty is rendered insurmountable by + the European professors knowing it only as a dead language, and + _teaching it without due attention to the pronunciation of the + before mentioned synonymous letters, a defect which is not likely + to be remedied, and which will always subject the speaker to + incessant errors_. + + To shew the Arabic student the difference between the Oriental and + Occidental order of the letters of the alphabet, I shall here give + them opposite each other. + + Oriental. Occidental + + 1 Alif [A] -- 1 Alif [A] + + 2 ba. [A] -- 2 ba [A] + + 3 ta [A] -- 3 ta. [A] + + 4 thsa [A] -- 4 tha [A] + + 5 jim [A] -- 5 jim [A] + + 6 hha [A] -- 6 hha [A] + + 7 kha [A] -- 7 kha [A] + + 8 dal [A] -- 8 dal [A] + + 9 dsal [A] -- 9 dth'al [A] + + 10 ra [A] -- 10 ra [A] + + 11 za [A] -- 11 zain [A] +359 + 12 sin [A] -- 12 ta [A] + + 13 shin [A] -- 13 da [A] + + 14 sad [A] -- 14 kef [A] + + 15 dad [A] -- 15 lam [A] + + 16 ta [A] -- 16 mim [A] + + 17 da [A] -- 17 nune [A] + + 18 ain [A] -- 18 sad [A] + + 19 gain [A] -- 19 dad [A] + + 20 fa [A] -- 20 ain [A] + + 21 kaf [A] -- 21 g'rain [A] + + 22 kef [A] -- 22 fa [A] + + 23 lem [A] -- 23 kaf [A] + + 24 mim [A] -- 24 sin [A] + + 25 nun [A] -- 25 shin [A] + + 26 waw [A] -- 26 hha [A] + + 27 he [A] -- 27 wow [A] + + 28 ya [A] -- 28 ia [A] + + 29 lam-alif: ligature lam + alif = [A] + + Besides this difference of the arrangement of the two alphabets, + the Arabic student will observe that there is also a difference in + the punctuation of two of the letters: thus-- + + Oriental. Occidental. + + fa [A] fa [A] + + kaf [A] kaf [A] + + [Footnote A: Arabic characters; cannot be displayed in this + file format.] + +360 + Among the Western Arabs, the ancient Arabic figures are used, viz. + 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9: they often write 100 thus, 1..--200, + 2.. + + To explain the force of the synonymous letters on paper would be + impossible; the reader, however, may form some idea of the + indispensable necessity of knowing the distinction by the few words + here selected, which to one unaccustomed to hear the Arabic + language spoken, would appear similar and undistinguishable. + + ENGLISH. ARABIC, ARABIC. + + Rendered as near to European pronunciation + as the English Alphabet + will admit. + + A horse Aoud [Arabic:] + + Wood Awad [Arabic:] + + To repeat Aoud [Arabic:] + + Fish Hout [Arabic:] + + A gun Mokhalla [Arabic:] + + A foolish woman Mokeela [Arabic:] + + A frying pan Makeela [Arabic:] + + A lion Seban [Arabic:] + + Morning Seban [Arabic:] + + Seventh Seban [Arabic:] +361 + Hatred Hassed [Arabic:] + + Harvest Hassed [Arabic:] + + Learning (Alem, or El Alem) [Arabic:] + + A flag El Alem [Arabic:] + + Granulated paste Kuscasoe [Arabic:] + + The dish it is made in Kuscas [Arabic:] + + Heart Kul'b [Arabic:] + + Dog Kil'b [Arabic:] + + Mould Kal'b [Arabic:] + + Captain Rice [Arabic:] + + Feathers Rish [Arabic:] + + Mud G'ris [Arabic:] + + Smell Shim [Arabic:] + + Poison Sim[206] [Arabic:] +362 + Absent G'raib [Arabic:] + + Butter-milk Raib [Arabic:] + + White Bead [Arabic:] + + A black El Abd [Arabic:] + + Eggs Baid [Arabic:] + + Afar off Baid [Arabic:] + + A pig Helloof [Arabic:] + + An oath Hellef [Arabic:] + + Feed for horses Alf [Arabic:] + + A thousand Elf [Arabic:] + + [Footnote 206: The African Jews find it very difficult in + speaking, to distinguish between _shim_ and _sim_, for they + cannot pronounce the _sh_, [Arabic] but sound it like _s_ + [Arabic]; the very few who have studied the art of reading + the language, have, however, conquered this difficulty.] + + It is difficult for any one who has not accurately studied the + Arabic language, to imagine the many errors which an European + commits in speaking it, when self taught, or when taught in Europe. + This deficiency originates in the inaccuracy of the application of + the guttural and synonymous letters. + + The ain [Arabic] and the [Arabic] grain cannot be +363 accurately pronounced by Europeans, who have not studied the + language grammatically when young. The aspirated _h_, and the hard + _s_, in the word for _morning_ (sebah), are so much like their + synonymes, that few Europeans can discern the difference; the one + is consequently often mistaken for the other; and I have known a + beautiful sentence absolutely perverted through an inaccuracy of + this kind. In the words rendered _Hatred_ and _Harvest_, the two + synonymes of [Arabic:] and [Arabic:] or _s_ hard and _s_ + soft, are indiscriminately used by Europeans in their Arabic + _conversations_, a circumstance sufficient to do away the force and + meaning of many a sentence. + + The poetry as well as prose of the Arabians is well known, and has + been so often discussed by learned men, that it would be irrelevant + here to expatiate on the subject; but as the following description + of the noblest passion of the human breast cannot but be + interesting to the generality of readers, and, without any + exception, to the fair sex, I will transcribe it. + + "Love [Arabic:] beginneth in contemplation, passeth to meditation; + hence proceeds desire; then the spark bursts forth into a flame, + the head swims, the body wastes, and the soul turns giddy. If we + look on the bright side of love, we must acknowledge that it has at + least one advantage; it annihilates pride and immoderate self-love; +364 true love, whose aim is the happiness and equality of the beloved + object, being incompatible with those feelings. + + "Lust is so different from true love [Arabic], and so far from a + perfection, that it is always a species of punishment sent by God, + because man has abandoned the path of his pure love." + + In their epistolary writing, the Arabs have generally a regular and + particular style, beginning and ending all their letters with the + name of God, symbolically, because God is the beginning and end of + all things. The following short specimen will illustrate this: + + Translation of a letter written in the Korannick Arabic by Seedy + Soliman ben Muhammed ben Ismael, Sultan of Marocco, to his Bashaw + of Suse, &c. &c. + + "Praise be to the only God! for there is neither power, nor + strength, without the great and eternal God." + + L.S. + + Containing the Emperor's name and + titles, as Soliman ben Muhamed + ben Abdallah, &c, &c. + + "Our servant, Alkaid Abdelmelk ben Behie Mulud, God assist, and + peace be with thee, and the mercy and grace of God be upon thee!" + + "We command thee forthwith to procure and send to our exalted + presence every Englishman that has been wrecked on the coast of + Wedinoon, and to forward them hither without delay, and diligently +365 to succour and attend to them, and may the eye of God be upon + thee!" [207] + + [Footnote 207: When they write to any other but Muhamedans, + they never salute them with the words, "Peace be with thee," + but substitute--"Peace be to those who follow the path of the + true God," _Salem ala min itaba el Uda_.] + + "26th of the (lunar), month Saffer, year of the Hejra 1221. (May, + 1806.)" + + The accuracy of punctuation in the Arabic language is a matter that + ought to be strictly attended to. + + The foregoing observations will serve to prove the insufficiency of + a knowledge of this language, as professed or studied in Great + Britain when unaccompanied with a practical knowledge. These + observations may apply equally to the Persian language.[208] + + [Footnote 208: "One of the objects I had in view in coming to + Europe, was to instruct young Englishmen in the Persian + language. I however met with so little encouragement from + persons in authority, that I entirely relinquished the plan. I + instructed, however, (as I could not refuse the recommendations + that were brought to me,) an amiable young man, Mr. S------n, + and thanks be to God, my efforts were crowned with success! and + that he, having escaped the instructions of _self-taught_ + masters, has acquired such a knowledge of the principles of + that language, and so correct an idea of its idiom and + pronunciation, that I have no doubt, after a few years' + residence in India, he will attain to such a degree of + excellence, as has not yet been acquired by any other + Englishman." Vide Travels of Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, vol. i. p. + 200.] + + If the present ardour for discovery in Africa be persevered in, the + learned world may expect, in the course of a few years, to receive +366 histories and other works of Greek and Roman authors, which were + translated into the Arabic language, when Arabian literature was in + its zenith, and have ever since been confined to some private + libraries in the cities of the interior of Africa, and in Arabia. + + Having said thus much with regard to the Arabic of the western + Arabs, which, with little variation, is spoken throughout all the + finest districts of North Africa, I shall proceed to say a few + words respecting the other languages spoken north of Sahara: these + are the Berebber and its dialects, viz. the Zayan and Girwan, and + Ait Amor; the Shelluh of Suse and South Atlas, all which, though + latterly supposed by some learned men to be the same, differ in + many respects; any one possessing a knowledge of the Berebber + language might, with little difficulty, make himself understood by + the Zayan of Atlas, the Girwan, or the Ait Amor; but the Shelluh is + a different language, and each so different from the Arabic, that + there is not the smallest resemblance, as the following specimen + will demonstrate: + + BEREBBER. SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Tumtoot Tayelt Ishira A girl + Ajurode Ayel Ishire A boy + Askan Tarousa Hajar A thing + Aram Algrom Jimmel Camel + Tamtute Tamraut Murrah A woman + Ishiar Issemg'h L'Abd A slave + Aouli Izimer Kibsh A sheep + Taddert Tikimie Dar House +367 Ikshuden Asroen Lawad Wood + Eekeel Akfai Hellib Milk + Tifihie Uksume El Ham Meat + Buelkiel Amuran Helloof A hog + Abreede Agares Trek A road + Bishee Fikihie Ara Give me + Adude Asht Agi Come + Alkam Aftooh Cire Go + Kaym Guze Jils Sit down + Imile Imeek Serire Little + + _Specimen of the Difference between the Arabic and Shelluh + Languages._ + + SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Is sin Tamazirkt Wash katarf Do you understand + Shelluh Shelluh? + Uree sin Man arf huh I do not understand it. + Matshrult Kif enta How are you? + Is tekeete Wash gite min Are you come from + Marokshe Marockshe Marocco? + Egan ras Miliah Good + Maigan Ala'sh Wherefore? + Misimmink As'mek What is your name? + Mensh kat dirk Shall andik How much have you got? + Tasardunt Borella A mule + Romi Romi An European + Takannarit Nasarani A Christian +368 Romi Kaffer An infidel + Misem Bebans Ashkune mula Who is the owner? + Is'tkit Tegriwelt Washjite min Are you come from + Tegriwelt Cape Ossem? + Auweete Imkelli Jib Liftor Bring the dinner + Efoulkie Meziana Handsome + Ayeese El aoud A horse + Tikelline El Baid Eggs + Amuran Helloof Hog + Tayuh Tatta Camelion + Tasamumiat Adda Green lizard + Tenawine Sfune Ships. + + Marmol says, the Shelluhs and Berebbers write and speak one + language, called Killem Abimalick[209]; but the foregoing specimen, + the accuracy of which may be depended on, clearly proves this + assertion to be erroneous, as well as that of many moderns who have + formed their opinion, in all probability, on the above authority. + Now, although the Shelluh and Berebber languages are so totally + dissimilar, that there is not one word in the foregoing vocabulary + which resembles its corresponding word in the other language, yet, +369 from the prejudice which Marmol's authority has established, it + will still be difficult, perhaps, to persuade the learned that such + an author could be mistaken on such a subject. My account therefore + must remain for a future age to determine upon, when the languages + of Africa shall be better known than they are at present; for it is + not a few travellers occasionally sent out on a limited plan, that + can ascertain facts, the attainment of which requires a long + residence, and familiar intercourse with the natives. Marmol had + also misled the world, in saying that they write a different + language; the fact is, that when they write any thing of + consequence, it is in the Arabic; but any trifling subject is + written in the Berebber words, though in the Arabic character. If + they had any peculiar character in the time of Marmol, they have + none now; for I have conversed with hundreds of them, as well as + with the Shelluhs, and have had them staying at my house for a + considerable time together, but never could learn from any, that a + character different from the Arabic had ever been in use among + them. + + [Footnote 209: Killem Abimalick signifies the Language of + Abimalick; this is evidently an error of Marmol, the Shelluh + language is denominated _Amazirk_; the Berebber Language is + denominated _Killem Brebber_.] + + In addition to these languages, there is another spoken at the + Oasis of Ammon, or Siwah, called in Arabic [Arabic:] El Wah El + Grarbie, which appears to be a mixture of Berebber and Shelluh, as + will appear from the list of Siwahan words given by Mr. +370 Horneman[210], in his Journal, page 19, part of which I have here + transcribed, to show the similitude between those two languages, + whereby it will appear that the language of Siwah and that of the + Shelluhs of South Atlas, are one and the same language. + + ENGLISH. SIWAHAN. SHELLUH. + Sun Itfuckt Atfuct. + Head Achf Akfie + Camel Lgum Arume + Sheep Jelibb Jelibb + Cow Tfunest Tafunest + Mountain Iddrarn Iddra[211] + Have you a horse? Goreck Ackmar Is derk Achmar?[212] + Milk Achi Akfie + Bread Tagor Tagora[213] + Dates Tena Tenia (sing.)Tena (plural.) + + South of the Desert we find other languages spoken by the blacks; + and are told by Arabs, who have frequently performed the journey + from Jinnie to Cairo, and the Red Sea, that thirty-three different +371 Negro languages are met with in the course of that route, but that + the Arabic is spoken by the intelligent part of the people, and the + Muhamedan religion is known and followed by many; their writings + are uniformly in Arabic. + + [Footnote 210: In reading Mr. William Marsden's observations on + the language of Siwah, at the end of Horneman's Journal, in + page 190, I perceive that the short vocabulary inserted + corresponds with a vocabulary of the Shelluh language, which I + presented to that gentleman some years past.] [Footnote 211: + Plural Iddrarn.] + + [Footnote 212: Or, Is derk ayeese?] + + [Footnote 213: This is applied to bread when baked in a pan, or + over the embers of charcoal, or other fire; but when baked in + an oven it is called Agarom (g guttural.)] + + It may not be improper in this place, seeing the many errors and + mutilated translations which appear from time to time, of Arabic, + Turkish and Persian papers, to give a list of the Muhamedan moons + or lunar months, used by all those nations, which begin with the + first appearance of the new moon, that is, the day following, or + sometimes two days after the change, and continue till they see the + next new moon; these have been mutilated to such a degree in all + our English translations, that I shall give them, in the original + Arabic character, and as they ought to be spelt and pronounced in + the English character, as a clue whereby to calculate the + correspondence between our year and theirs. They divide the year + into 12 months, which contain 29 or 30 days, according as they see + the new moon; the first day of the month Muharam is termed [arabic] + Ras Elame, i.e. the beginning of the year. + + As we are more used to the Asiatic mode of punctuation, that will + be observed in these words. + + Muharam [Arabic] + Asaffer [Arabic] +372 Arabia Elule [Arabic] + Arabea Atthenie [Arabic] + Jumad Elule [Arabic] + Jumad Athenie [Arabic] + Rajeb [Arabic] + Shaban [Arabic] + Ramadan [Arabic] + Shual [Arabic] + Du'elkada [Arabic] + Du Elhajah [Arabic] + + The first of Muharram, year of the Hejra 1221, answers to the 19th + March of the Christian ra, 1806. + + Among the various languages spoken south of the Sahara, we have + already observed that there are thirty-three different ones between + the Western Ocean and the Red Sea, following the shores of the Nile + El Abeed, or Niger: among all these nations and empires, a man + practically acquainted with the Arabic, may always make himself + understood, and indeed, it is the language most requisite to be + known for every traveller in these extensive regions. + + The Mandinga is spoken from the banks of the Senegal, where that + river takes a northerly course from the Jibel Kuthera to the +373 kingdom of Bambarra; the Wangareen tongue is a different one; and + the Housonians speak a language differing again from that. + + _Specimen of the difference between the Arabic and Mandinga + language; the words of the latter extracted from the vocabularies + of Seedi Muhamed ben Amer Sudani._ + + ENGLISH. MANDINGA. ARABIC. + + One Kalen Wahud + Two Fula Thanine + Three Seba Thalata + Four Nani Arba + Five Lulu Kumsa + Six Uruh Setta + Seven Urn'klu Sebba + Eight Sae Timinia + Nine Kanunte Taseud + Ten Dan Ashra + Eleven Dan kalen Ahud ash + Twelve Dan fula Atenashe + Thirteen Dan seba Teltashe + Nineteen Dankanarte Tasatasli + Twenty Mulu Ashreen + Thirty Mulu nintau Thalateen + Forty Mulu fula Arb'in + Fifty Mulu fula neentan Kumseen + Sixty Mulu sebaa Setteen + Seventy Mulu sebaa nintan Seb'in. +374 Eighty Mulu nani T'aramana'een + Ninety Mulu nani neentaan Tasa'een + One hundred Kemi Mia + One thousand Uli Elf + + This Neen Hadda + That Waleem Hadduk + Great Bawa Kabeer + Little Nadeen Sereer + Handsome Nimawa Zin + Ugly Nuta Uksheen (k guttur.) + White Kie Bead + Black Feen Khal + Red Williamma Hummer + How do you do? Nimbana mcuntania Kif-enta + Well Kante Ala-khere + Not well Moon kanti Murrede + What do you want Ala feta matume Ash-bright + Sit down Siduma Jils + Get up Ounilee Node + Sour Akkumula Hamd + Sweet Timiata Helluh + True Aituliala Hack + False Funiala Kadube + Good Abatee Miliah + Bad Minbatee Kubiah + A witch Bua Sahar + A lion Jatta Seba +375 An elephant Samma El fel + A hyna Salua Dubbah + A wild boar Siwa El kunjer + A water horse Mali Aoud d'Elma + A horse Suhuwa Aoud + A camel Kumaniun Jimmel + A dog Wallee Killeb + Hel el Killeb Hel Wallee Hel El Killeb + or the dog-faced + race. + + A gazel Tankeen Gazel (g guttural) + A cat Niankune El mish + A goat Ba El mize + A sheep Kurenale Kibsh + A bull Nisakia Tor + A serpent Sa Hensh + A camelion Mineer Tatta + An ape Ku'nee Dzatute + A fowl or chicken Susee Djez + A duck Beruee El Weese + A fish Hihu El hout + Butter Tulu Zibda + Milk Nunn El hellib + Bread Mengu El khubs (k guttur.) + Corn Nieu Zra + Wine Tangee Kummer (k guttur.) + Honey Alee Asel + Sugar Tobabualee Sukar + Salt Kuee Mil'h + Ambergris Anber Anber +376 Brass Tass Tass + Silver Kudee Nukra + Gold-dust Teber Tiber + Pewter Tass ki Kusdeer + A bow Kula El kos + An arrow Binia Zerag + A knife Muru Jenui + A spoon Kulia Mogerfa + A bed El arun El ferrashe + A lamp El kundeel El kundeel + A house Su Ed dar + A room Bune El beet + A light-hole Jinnee Reehha + or window + A door Daa Beb + A town Kinda Midina + Smoke Sezee Tkan (k guttural) + Heat Kandia Skanna (k guttural) + Cold Nini Berd + Sea Bedu baha Bahar + River Bedu Wed + A rock Berri Jerf + Sand Kinnikanni Rummel + The earth Binku Dunia + Mountain Kuanku Jibbel + Island Juchi Dzeera + Rain Sanjukalaeen Shta + God Allah Allah + Father Fa Ba + Mother Ba Ma + Hell Jahennum Jehennume +377 A man Kia Rajil + A woman Musa Murrah + A sister Bum musa Kat (k guttural) + A brother Bum kia Ka + The devil Buhau Iblis + A white man Tebabu Rajil biad + A singer Jalikea Runai (r guttural) + A singing woman Jalimusa Runaiah (r guttural) + A slave June Abeed + A servant Bettela Mutalem + + Having now given some account of the languages of Africa, we shall + proceed to animadvert on the similitude of language and customs + between the Shelluhs of Atlas and the original inhabitants of the + Canary Islands. The words between inverted commas, are quotations + from Glasse's History of the Discovery and Conquest of the Canary + Islands. + + "The inhabitants of Lancerotta and Fuertaventura are social and + cheerful;" like the Shelluhs of Atlas; "they are fond of singing + and dancing; their music is vocal, accompanied with a clapping of + hands, and beating with their feet;" the Shelluhs resemble them in + all these respects; "Their houses are built of stone, without + cement; the entrance is narrow, so that but one person can enter at + a time." + +378 The houses of the Shelluhs are sometimes built without cement, but + always with stone; the doors and entrances are low and small, so + that one person only can enter. + + "In their temples they offered to their God milk and butter." + + Among the Shelluhs milk and butter are given as presents to princes + and great men; the milk being an emblem of good will and candour. + + "When they were sick (which seldom happened) they cured themselves + with the herbs which grew in the country; and when they had acute + pains, they scarified the part affected with sharp stones, and + burned it with fire, and then anointed it with goat's butter. + Earthen vessels of this goat's butter were found interred in the + ground, having been put there by the women, who were the makers, + and took that method of preparing it for medicine." + + The custom of the Shelluhs on such occasions is exactly similar; + the butter which they use is old, and is buried under ground many + years in (_bukul_) earthen pots, and is called _budra_: it is a + general medicine, and is said to possess a remarkably penetrating + quality. + + "They grind their barley in a hand-mill, made of two stones, being + similar to those used in some remote parts of Europe". + + In Suse, among the Shelluhs, they grind their corn in the same way, + and barley is the principal food. + + "Their breeches are short, leaving the knees bare;" so are those + worn by the Shelluhs. +379 + "Their common food was barley meal roasted and mixed with goat's + milk and butter, and this dish they call Asamotan." + + This is the common food of the Shelluhs of Atlas, and they call it + by a similar name, Azamitta. + + The opinion of the author of the History and Conquest of the Canary + Islands, is, that the inhabitants came originally from Mauritania, + and this he founds on the resemblance of names of places in Africa + and in the islands: "for," says he, "Telde[214], which is the name + of the oldest habitation in Canaria, Orotaba, and Tegesta, are all + names which we find given to places in Mauritania and in Mount + Atlas. It is to be supposed that Canaria, Fuertaventura, and + Lancerotta, were peopled by the Alarbes[215], who are the nation + most esteemed in Barbary; for the natives of those islands named + milk _Aho_, and barley _Temecin_, which are the names that are + given to those things in the language of the Alarbes of Barbary." + He adds, that-- + + "Among the books of a library that was in the cathedral of St. Anna + in Canaria, there was found one so disfigured, that it wanted both + the beginning and the end: it treated of the Romans, and gave an +380 account, that when Africa was a Roman province, the natives of + Mauritania rebelled and killed their presidents and governors, upon + which the senate, resolving to punish and make a severe example of + the rebels, sent a powerful army into Mauritania, which vanquished + and reduced them again to obedience. Soon after the ringleaders of + the rebellion were put to death, and the tongues of the common + people, together with those of their wives and children, were cut + out, and then they were all put aboard vessels with some grain and + cattle, and transported to the Canary islands." [216] + + [Footnote 214: Telde or Tildie is a place in the Atlas + mountains, three miles east of Agadeer; the castle is in + ruins.] + + [Footnote 215: The Alarbes, this is the name that the + inhabitants of Lower Suse and Sahara have, _El Arab_ or Arabs.] + + [Footnote 216: One Thomas Nicols, who lived seven years in the + Canary Islands, and wrote a history of them, says, that the + best account he could get of the origin of the natives, was, + that they were exiles from Africa, banished thence by the + Romans, who cut out their tongues for blaspheming their gods.] + + The following vocabulary will show the similarity of language + between the natives of Canaria and the Shelluhs (inhabitants of the + Atlas mountains south of Marocco). + + LANCEROTTA AND SHELLUH OR ENGLISH. + FUERTAVENTURA DIALECT. LYBIAN TONGUE. + + Temasin Tumzeen Barley + Tezzezes Tezezreat Sticks + Taginaste Taginast A palm-tree + Tahuyan Tahuyat A blanket, + covering, or petticoat. + Ahemon Amen Water +381 Faycag Faquair Priest or lawyer + Acoran M'koorn God + Almogaren Talmogaren Temples + Tamoyanteen Tigameen Houses + Tawacen Tamouren Hogs + Archormase Akermuse Green figs + Azamotan Azamittan Barley meal fried in oil + Tigot Tigot Heaven + Tigotan Tigotan The Heavens + Thener Athraar A mountain + Adeyhaman Douwaman A hollow valley + Ahico Tahayk A hayk, or coarse garment + Kabeheira Kabeera A head man or a powerful + Ahoren ---- Barley meal roasted + Ara ---- A goat + Ana ---- A sheep + Tagarer ---- A place of justice + + Benehoare, the name of the natives of Palma. + + Beni Hoarie, a tribe of Arabs in Suse between Agadeer and + Terodant.[217] + + [Footnote 217: For further particulars, see Glasse's History of + the Canary Islands, 4to. page 174.] + +382 + + TITLES + OF + THE EMPEROR OF MAROCCO, + STYLE OF ADDRESSING HIM, + AND + SPECIMENS OF EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE. + + + * * * * * + + + _THE TITLES OF THE EMPEROR_ + ARE + + Servant of God. + + Commander, Captain, or Leader of the (Mumeneen) _Faithful_ [i.e. in + Muhamed], _upheld by the Grace of God_. + + _Prince of Hassenee_. Ever supported by God. + + _Sultan of Fas, of Maroksh_ [Marocco], _of Suse, and of Draha, and + of Tafilelt and Tuat, together with all the kabyles_ [tribes] _of + the West, and of the Berebbers of Atlas, &c._ + + The Sultan calls his soldiers (_ketteffee_) "my shoulders or + support, or strength;" his subjects he calls his sons (_woledee_), + and himself the father of his people. + + N.B. The Hejra, or Muhamedan ra began A.D. 622. The Muhamedan + years are lunar, 33 of which are about 32 solar years. + +383 + + THE STYLE + USED BY MUSELMEN, + _IN ADDRESSING THE EMPEROR,_ + IS AS FOLLOWS: + + "Sultan of exalted dignity, whom God preserve. May the Almighty + protect that royal purity, and bestow happiness, increase of + wealth, and prosperity on the nation of believers [i.e. in + Muhamed], whose welfare and power is attributed entirely to the + favour and benevolence of the Exalted God." + + The Sultan is head of the ecclesiastical, military, and civil law, + and is universally considered by his subjects God's Vicegerent, or + Lieutenant on Earth. All letters written to his Imperial Majesty, + are begun with the praise of God, and with the acknowledgment, (in + opposition to idolatry,) that there is neither beginning nor power + but what proceeds from God, the eternal God, (_La hule la ka ela + billa, Allah el adeem_.) + +384 + + SPECIMENS + OF + _MUHAMEDAN EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE._ + + * * * * * + + + _The following Letters are literal translations from the original + Arabic, and, although not of great importance, yet it is some + satisfaction to the enquiring mind, to observe the various modes of + address, and to note the style of Epistolary Correspondence + practised by the Muhamedans, which is so different from that which + is used among European and other nations._ + + + * * * * * + + LETTER I. + + _From Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, to Captain Kirke at + Tangier; Ambassador from King Charles the Second, dated 7th Du + Elkadah, in the 1093d Year of the Hejra, (corresponding to the 27th + October, A. D, 1682_.) + + Praise be to God, the most High alone! and the blessing of God be + upon those who are for his prophet. + + From the shereef[218], the servant of God, who putteth his trust in +385 God, the commander of the faithful, who is courageous in the way of + the omniscient God. + + [Footnote 218: Shereef is a general term in the Arabic for a + prince, king, or emperor, signifying royal blood.] + + L.S. + + Ismael Son of a shereef; God illumine + and preserve him. + + God assist his commanders, and give victory to his forces and + armies, Amen! To the captain of Tangier, Kirke, _peace be to those + who follow the right way[219]_; this by way of preface. Your letter + came to the lofty place of our residence, and we understand what + your discourse contained. As for the asking a cessation of arms by + sea; know, that it was not treated of between us till this present + time. Neither did we make truce with you concerning any thing but + Tangier alone. When you came to our illustrious house, we treated + with you about that matter for four years, and if you had sojourned + there yourself, no Muselman would ever have gone into that town + hostilely against you, but merely as a peaceable merchant. + + [Footnote 219: This is a sentence which frequently occurs in + the Koran, but when used in epistolary correspondence with + Christians (for it is never used by Muhamedans between + themselves), it bears the appearance of a salutation, but the + allusion is to Muhamedans, who _these people think_ are the + only men who follow the true path or right way; it is, however, + a compliment to all who _think themselves_ in the right way.] + + As to a cessation of arms by sea, it was not negociated by us, + neither did we discourse about it; but, when you desired it of us, +386 we wrote to your Master in England, saying, If you desire a + cessation of arms by sea, and are willing to receive a firm peace + from us, send us two understanding men, of the chief of the Divan + of England, by whom the peace of all the Christians here may be + confirmed; and, when they shall arrive at the lofty place of our + residence, and sit before us, whatsoever they shall hear from us, + by way of agreement, shall be acceded to! And we have given you + security, at sea, for four months, viz. from the time we sent you + our letter to Tangier, till the day that there shall come an answer + from your Master, and until the arrival of the two ambassadors + aforementioned, after the aforesaid manner. As for those men who in + thy letter thou didst say were taken at sea: I neither know nor + have heard any thing of them. Your discourse about that matter + having been with Aly ben Abdallah, and he administered justice (to + you) upon the Muselmen who had taken these men prisoners for the + sake of him, for whom you made your complaint to us; and he + returned the Christians to you, and imprisoned the sailors for + capturing them. Now, if there shall happen to be a peace between me + and you at sea, as there is for four years by land, through your + mediation, and by reason of your coming to us, I will hang them, + and blot out their footsteps, and be revenged on them with the most + severe revenge. + + Our servant Muhamed ben Hadu Aater, who came from your presence, + told us that lions are scarce in your country, and that they are in +387 high estimation, with you. When your servant came to us, he found + we had two small young lions, wherefore by him we send them to you. + And know, that we have received by our servants from your Master, + _three_ coach-horses, now a coach requires _four_ horses to draw + it, wherefore you must needs send us another good one of the same + kind and size, that they may draw the coach with four horses. + Oblige us in this by all means. Farewell: we depend upon it. + + Written 7th of the sacred month _Du El Kadah_, in the year of the + Hejra, ninety-three and a thousand, (A.D. 1682.) + + + LETTER II. + + _From the same Muley Ismael to Sir Cloudesly Shovel, on board the + Charles Galley, off Salee, written Aug. 26. A.D. 1684, year of the + Hejra 1095_. + + L.S. + + I, servant of God, and Emperor of + Marocco and King of Mauritania, + whom God preserve in all + his undertakings, &c. + + I Salute you and the rest of the captains. + + As for the captives you have taken, they belong to several places, + and are not all my subjects; and what I do is out of charity, as + they are Muhamedans, being forced to go to sea for want of + maintenance. As for those that are my soldiers, they go to sea to +388 fight and to die in my quarrels; but, those _Moors_ that _you_ have + taken, are inconsiderable and of no account. + + Henceforward I shall have ships as big as yours, if not bigger, + hoping to take some of your ships and captains, and cruise for you + in your English seas, as you do for us in these. + + I have written letters to the King of England, in which are kind + expressions: And when you had Tangier, all things were given to you + as you wanted, and all done out of kindness; and now that you have + left Tangier for the Moors, whatever His Majesty of Great Britain + wants, either by sea or by land, it shall be granted, so that there + be a peace betwixt the two crowns; for which I pass my word and + faith. + + Now, _I have written several letters to his Majesty of Great + Britain, to which I have received as yet no answer_; but, when it + (the answer) reaches my hands, I hope there will be a good + accommodation between us. + + You have taken several of our ships and destroyed others, and you + are cruising on our coast, which is not the way to make a good + peace, neither the actions of honesty in you. + + God be praised that you have quitted Tangier and left it to us, to + whom it did belong: from henceforward we shall keep it well + supplied with stores, for it is the best port of our dominions. + + As for the captives you have taken, you may do as you please with +389 them, heaving them into the sea, or otherwise destroying them. The + English merchants that are here resident, shall satisfy all their + debts, which being done, none of them shall remain in my country. + + + LETTER. III. + + _Captain Shovel's Answer_. + + May it please Your Majesty, + + We, the King of England's captains, return Your Majesty humble + thanks for your kind wishes to us. Your Majesty by this may know, + that we have received your letter, and by it we understand, that + Your Majesty is informed that most of these people that are taken + are not your subjects. We perceive by this, as well as in other + things, how grossly Your Majesty has been deceived by those people + you trust; else, we doubt not, but that, long before this, our + Master, whom God preserve, and Your Majesty had accommodated all + differences, and we should have had a firm peace. + + Of those fifty-three slaves that are here, (excepting two or + three,) they are all Moors of their own country, as they themselves + can make appear; but, if they are to be disowned because they are + poor, the Lord help them!! Your Majesty tells us, that we may throw + them overboard, if we please: all this we very well know; but we + are Christians, and they bear the form of men, which is reason +390 enough for us not to do so. + + As to Tangier, our Master kept it twenty-one years; and the world + is sensible, that in spite of all your force, he could, if he had + pleased, have continued to keep it to the world's end; for, he + levelled your walls, filled up your harbour, and demolished your + houses, in the face of your Alkaid and his army; and when he had + done, he left your[220] barren country (without the loss of a man) + for your own people to starve in: but our departure from thence, + long before this, we doubt not, but you have repented of. When you + tell us of those mighty ships Your Majesty intends to build and + send to our coast, you must excuse us if we think ourselves the + better judges; for we know, as to shipping, what you are able to + do. + + [Footnote 220: The gallant and magnanimous captain was better + acquainted with the coast than with the country, which is any + thing but barren.] + + If you think fit to redeem those slaves, at 100 dollars a-piece, + they are at Your Majesty's service, and the rest shall be sent to + you; or, if you think fit to give us so many English in exchange, + we shall be well satisfied; but we think you will hardly comply + with that, for the poorest slave that ever our Master redeemed out + of _your_ country, cost him 200 dollars; and some of these five + times that sum, for he freely extended his charity to all, and + never forgets his people _because they are poor_. +391 + It is great wonder to us, that you should tax us with unjust + proceedings in taking your ships in time of truce, when Your + Majesty may remember that, during the time your ambassador was in + England, your corsairs took about twenty sail of my Master's ships; + and this very year, you have fitted out all the force in your + kingdom to sea, who have taken several of our ships, and at the + same time pretend to a truce for peace! But some of your ships, for + their unjust dealings, have had their reward, and the rest, when + they shall come to sea, we doubt not but God Almighty will put them + into our hands. + + If Your Majesty think fit to send proposals to my Master concerning + peace, I shall take care for the speedy and safe conveyance of the + same. I desire Your Majesty's speedy answer; for I do not intend to + stay long before Salee. + + Wishing Your Majesty long life and happiness, I subscribe myself, + Your Majesty's + + Most obedient and humble Servant, + + CLOUDESLY SHOVEL. + Sept. 1684 A.D. +392 + + LETTER IV. + + _A literal Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter + to Queen Anne, in the year of our Lord 1710, extracted from the + Harl. MSS. 7525_. + + L.S. + + In the name of the most + merciful God. + + He that depends upon God goeth straight to the right way. From the + servant of God, the Emperor of the believers, who maketh war for + the cause of the Lord of both worlds, Ismael ben Assherif Al + Hassanee to the Queen of the English, nay of England, and the + mistress of the great parliament thereof, happiness to every one + that followeth the right way, and believes in God, and is so + directed. + + This premised, we have heard from more than one of the comers and + goers from thy country, that thou hast seized our Armenian servant, + a person of great esteem. We sent him to thee, to compose a + difference between us and thee, and we wrote to thee concerning + him, that thou shouldst use him well. Then, after this, we heard + that thou didst set him at liberty: And wherefore didst thou seize + him? Hath he exceeded any covenant, or hath he made any covenant + with thee and broke it? We should not have sent him to thee, but on +393 account of our knowledge and assurance of his understanding and + integrity; and when he resolved upon his journey into your country, + we gave him directions to dispatch some of our affairs. Wherefore + we wrote unto thee concerning him, and said, If thou hast any + necessity or business with us, he will convey it to us from thee. + And we said unto thee, Speak with him, and whatsoever thou sayest + unto him, he will communicate unto us, without addition or + diminution. + + As for what our servant Alkaid Ali ben Abdallah did to ----, the + Christian, thy servant, by God we know nothing of it, nor gave him + any permission as to any thing that passed between them; and, at + the instant that we heard that he had taken thy man, we commanded + him to set him at liberty forthwith; and since then we have never + manifested any favour to Alkaid Ali, nor was our mind ever right + towards him afterwards till he died. + + Our Christian servant, the merchant, Bayly, told us, that thou + hadst a mind to an ostrich, and we gave him two, a male and a + female, which shall come to you, if God will. And, lo! a secretary, + our servant, (who is much esteemed by us,) when he cometh he shall + bring what goods he hath collected with him, if it please God. And + we are in expectation of thy messenger the ambassador; and if he + comes, he shall see nothing from us but what is fair; and we will + deliver to him the Christians, and do what he pleases, if God will. + Wherefore be kind to our servant, with respect. +394 + Written the first of the Glorious Ramadan, in the year of the Hejra + 1125 (corresponding with A.D. 1710). + + + LETTER V. + + _Translation of an Arabic Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed[221] + ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident + at Tangier, delivered to each of them, by the Bashaw of the + province of El Grarb, on 1st day of June, 1788, corresponding with + the year of the Hejra, 1202_. + + [Footnote 221: Father of the present Sultan Soliman ben + Muhamed.] + + L.S. + + Mohamed ben Abdallah, ben + Ismael, Sultan ben, Sultan, + &c. + + In the name of God, for there is no power or strength but from God. + + To all the Consuls at Tangier. + + Peace (be) to those who follow the right path. + + By this you will learn that we are in peace and friendship with all + the Christian powers until the month of May of the next year, (of + the Hejra, 1203,) and such nations as shall then be desirous to + continue in peace and friendship with us, are to write a letter to + us, when the month of May comes, to inform us if they are in peace + and friendship with us, then we shall be the same with them; but, + if any Christian nation desire to go to war with us, they will let +395 us know before the month above-mentioned; and we trust God will + keep us in his protection against them; and thus I have said all I + had to say. + + 2d day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1202, (corresponding with 7th + May, 1788.) + + + LETTER VI. + + _Letter from Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. + to His Majesty George III. literally translated from the original + Arabic, by James Grey Jackson, at the request of the Right Hon. + Spencer Perceval, after lying in the Secretary of State's Office + here for several months, and being then sent ineffectually to the + Universities for translation, and after various enquiries had been + made on behalf of the Emperor, to the Governor of Gibraltar, the + Bashaw of El Garb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any + answer had been returned to his Imperial Majesty._ + + In the name of God! the all-merciful and commiserating God, on whom + is our account, and we acknowledge his support; for there is + neither beginning nor power but that which proceeds from God, the + High Eternal God. + + From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful [in Muhamed] + upheld and supported by the Grace of God. + + Soliman the son of Muhamed, the son of Abdallah, the son of Ismael, + Prince of [the house or dynasty of Hassan][222] who was ever upheld +396 by the power of God, Sultan of Fas and Marocco, and Suse, and + Draha, and Tafilelt, and Tuat, together with all the territories of + the West. + + [Footnote 222: The words between brackets are not in the original, + but implied.] + + L.S. + + Soliman, son of Mohamed, son + Abdallah, God illumine and support + him! + + To our dearly beloved and cherished, exalted by the power of God, + the Sultan[223] George the Third, Sultan of the territories of the + United Kingdom of Great Britain, Ireland, Duke of Mecklenburg + Strelitz, Prince, descended from the dynasty of the Sultans of Rome + and Palestine, &c. + + This premised, we inform you, that we make diligent inquiry about + you, desiring heartily that you may be at all times surrounded by + health and prosperity. We wish you to increase in friendship with + us, that our alliance may be more strongly cemented than + heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors, + whom God guard and protect. + + Now therefore we make known to you, that your physician, Doctor + Buff, has been in our royal presence, [which is] exalted by the + bounty of God, and we have been well pleased with his medical + knowledge and diligent attention, and moreover with the relief he + has given to us. + +397 We have therefore to entreat of you to give him your royal order to + return to Gibraltar, in our neighbourhood, well provided with all + good and necessary medicines; that he, residing at Gibraltar, may + be ready to attend quickly our royal presence, whenever we may be + in need of his [medical] assistance. We trust you will return him + without procrastination to our throne, seeing that he has been of + essential service to us. + + We recommend you to exalt Dr. Buff, in your favour and esteem on + our account, and we will always be your allies and friends. May you + ever be well and in prosperity! Peace be with you, 4th of the month + Jumad El Lule in the year [of the Hejra] 1221, (corresponding with + 5th July, 1806, A.D.) + + [Footnote 223: This perhaps is the only letter extant, wherein + a Muselman Prince gives the title of Sultan to a Christian + king.] + + + LETTER VII. + + In Muhamedan countries, an insolvent man continues liable to his + creditors till the day of his death, unless the debt is discharged; + but he can claim by law his liberation from prison, on making oath, + and bringing proof of his insolvency: but then if he succeed + afterwards and become possessed of property, he is compelled to pay + the debts formerly contracted; so that an European should be + cautious how he contracts debts with the Moors, lest the + misfortunes that commerce is liable to should oblige him to remain + all his life in the country. A letter, similar to the following, +398 should be procured by every European, about to quit the country, to + prevent the extortion of the alkaid, who might, as has often + happened before, throw impediments in the way for the purpose of + extorting presents, &c. + + _Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated from + the Original Arabic, by James Grey Jackson._ + + L.S. + + Soliman ben Muhamed, ben + Abdallah, ben Ismael Sultan, + &c. + + Praise be to God alone. + + Our servants El Hage Mohamed o Bryhim, and Seid Mohamed Bel Akkia, + peace and the mercy of God be with you! This premised, I command + you to suffer the Christian merchant, Jackson, to embark for his + own country, if it appears to you that no one pursues him in law + [for debt,] as I wrote to you on this subject in my last letter: if + no one claims of him any right by law, allow him to go, and do not + impede him.[224] God protect you, and peace be with you. 3d day of + Saffer, the good year 1220 of the Hejra, (A.C. 1805.) + + [Footnote 224: This repetition of the principal subject in + Arabic correspondence, is a mode of impressing on the mind more + forcibly, the subject intended to be impressed, and is commonly + practised by the best Arabian, and African writers; it also + frequently occurs in the inspired writings. See Psalms lxxv, l. + lxxvii, 1. &c.] + + + LETTER VIII. + + As a specimen of the lofty style of writing so much in use among +399 the Eastern authors, I shall add the summons which Hulacu the + Tartar conqueror of the East, (who took Bagdad, and entirely + subverted the government of the Saracens,) sent to Al Mlek + Annsar, sultan of Aleppo, in the year of the Hejra 657, (of Christ + 1259.) + + Let Al Mlek Annsar know, that we sat down before Bagdad in the + 655th year (of the Hejra,) and took it by the sword of the most + high God: and we brought the master of it before us, and demanded + two things of him; to which he, not answering, brought deserved + punishment upon himself. As it is written in your Koran, "_God doth + not change the condition of a people, till their own minds are + changed_." He took care of his wealth, and fate brought him to what + he is come to. He chose to exchange precious lives for pieces of + money made of vile metal; which is plainly the same that God says + _They found_ [the reward of] _what they had done present with + them_.[225] For we have attained by the power of God, what we + desired; and by the help of the most high God we shall increase. + Nor is there any doubt of our being the army of God upon his earth. + He created us, and gave us power over every one upon whom his anger + rests. Wherefore, let what is past be to you an example, and what + we have mentioned a warning. Fortifications are nothing in our +400 hands, nor doth the joining of battle avail you any thing; nor will + your intreaties be heard or regarded. Take warning therefore by + others, and surrender entirely to us, before the veil be taken off, + and [_the punishment of_] sin light upon you. For we shall have no + mercy upon him that complains, nor be moved by him that weeps. We + have wasted countries, we have destroyed men, we have made children + orphans, and the land desolate. It is your business to run away; + ours to pursue; nor can you escape our swords, nor fly from our + arrows. Our horses are racers; our arrows strike home; our swords + pierce like lightning; our fortifications are like mountains, and + our numbers like the sand. Whosoever surrenders comes off safe: + whosoever is for war, repents it. If you will obey our command, and + come to our terms, your interest and ours shall be the same; but if + you be refractory and persist in your error, blame not us, but + yourselves. God is against you, ye wicked wretches: look out for + something to screen you under your miseries, and find somebody to + bear you company in your affliction. We have given you fair + warning, and fair warning is fair play. You have eaten things + forbidden[226], you have been perfidious in your treaties. You have + introduced new heresies, and thought it a gallant thing to commit +401 sodomy. Prepare yourselves therefore for scorn and contempt. Now + you will find what you have done; for they that have done amiss, + will now find their state changed. You take it for granted, that we + are infidels. We take it for granted, that you are _villains_; and + _He_ by whose hand all things are disposed and determined, hath + given us the dominion over you. The greatest man you have is + despicable among us; and what _you_ call rich, is a beggar. We + govern the world from east to west, and whosoever is worth any + thing is our prey; and we take every ship by force. Weigh therefore + what is fit to be done, and return us a speedy answer, before + _infidelity_[227] shall have kindled its fire, and scattered its + sparks among you, and destroy you all from off the face of the + earth. We have awakened you by sending to you: make haste with an + answer, lest punishment come upon you unawares. + + [Footnote 225: A quotation from the Koran. The Tartar was a + deist, and quotes the Koran in derision.] + + [Footnote 226: The Muhamedans, whose religion is a compound of + Judaism and Christianity, have borrowed many customs from + either, they abstain like the Jews from swine's flesh, &c.] + + [Footnote 227: As the Muhamedans charge every nation that doth + not believe Muhamed to have been a prophet with infidelity, so + the Tartar (who was a Deist) returns it upon them.] +402 + + LETTER IX. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to Webster + Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their + High Mightinesses the States-General, of the Seven United + Provinces. Written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and + previous to the Negotiation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer, + to Dutch Commerce._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God." + + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan ben Sultan, (i.e. Emperor and Son of an + Emperor.) + + "To the Consul Blount. Peace be with those who follow the right + way, or the way of the true God: and this being premised, know that + I have received your letter, and that we are with you, (the Dutch + nation,) in peace and amity and good faith, and peace be with you. + 22 Ramadan, year of the Hejra 1204, (A.C. 1792.)" + + Translated literally by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + + LETTER X. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid, to the Governor + of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the + Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God, the eternal God." +403 + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan + ben Sultan. + + "Our servant (or agent) Alkaid Aumer ben Daudy, peace be unto you, + with the mercy and blessing of God: this premised, I command that + all the duties you have collected be sent to me speedily by my + brother[228] Muley Soliman, who will (_berik_) discharge you by + receipt for every thing you deliver to him, for he is our + representative. We are preparing to go to the siege of Ceuta, with + the acquiescence of the High God, by whose power we hope to enter + it, and take it. And we command you to send the Alkaid M'saud El + Hayanie to my port of Agadeer, with all things necessary for his + journey, assisting him with every possible succour, and send with + him twenty Benianters[229], who must be sailors skilful in the + management of boats; and the Christian merchants of the Dutch + nation will go to Agadeer, and establish their houses there; for I + have given that port to the Dutch to trade there: and send with + them Talb Aumer Busedra, and the eye of God be upon you, and peace + be with you." + + [Footnote 228: The duties were at this time collected in kind; + viz. one tenth of every thing imported from Europe: and the + present Emperor Muly Soliman was deputed to convey them to the + camp before Ceuta, to his brother, the Emperor Muley Yezzid, + whose army was besieging that fortress.] + + [Footnote 229: _Benianters_, are a kabyle of Shelluhs of Suse, + who are employed to work, and row the boats, and land the goods + at Mogodor.] +404 + Seventh day of Arrabea Ellule, year (Hejra) 1205.[230] + + Translated by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + "Be vigilant with respect to the matter of the establishment of + Agadeer, and of M'saud El Hayanie." [231] + + [Footnote 230: Corresponding with A.C. 1793.] + + [Footnote 231: The Emperors of Marocco, and the Arabian writers + in general thus repeat the principal subject of a letter or + discourse, to impress it more forcibly on the mind.] + + + LETTER XI. + + _Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa, in their + Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan + faith_. + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength without God, the eternal God. + + "From the servant of the great God, El Hage Abdrahaman El Fellely, + to my friend Consul Jackson, peace be to those who follow the right + way, or who pursue the right path; and then, O my friend, I have + received your letter, and I have taken good notice of its contents, + &c. &c." + + The letter, after explaining matters of business, concludes thus:-- + + "Do not leave me without news from you; and peace be with you, and + peace from me to our friend L'hage Muhamed Bu Zeyd; and peace from + me to Seed Muham'd bel Hassen, and to the Fakeer Seed Abdallah, and +405 praise be to God, I am very well, and prosperous." + + "Written 15th day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1209, (1797, A.C.)" + + The style in which letters are addressed is generally as follows:-- + + "This shall arrive, God willing, to the hands of Consul Jackson, at + Agadeer. May God prosper it." + + + LETTER XII. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Sultan, Seedi Muhamed Emperor of + Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor_. + + "Praise be to God alone, + + "I order my servant Alkaid Muhamed ben Amran, to deliver the + treasure and the merchandise to the Christian merchants at Mogodor, + which is in the possession of the Jews, Haim Miram, and Meemon ben + Isaac Corcos, and others of the Jews, friends of the Christian + merchants. God assist you, and peace be with you. 23d of the month + Jumad Ellule, year of the Hejra 1203. + + "By order of the Sultan, empowered by God. Written by Talb El + Huderanie." + + The courier who receives the letter is ordered by the minister whom + to deliver it to. It is then inclosed in a blank leaf or sheet of + paper, without any address, and not sealed. It is presumed, that + the courier or messenger will not dare to open it, or discover the + contents to any one; such a breach of confidence might cost him his + head, if discovered. +406 + _Doubts having been made in the Daily Papers, concerning the + accuracy of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of Mungo Park's Death; the following Observations, by the + Author, are laid before the Public in elucidation of those + Translations_. + + The following is a copy of a letter, supposed to be a description + of Mungo Park's death; brought to England from Ashantee in Africa, + by Mr. Bowdich; and that gentleman assured me, about six months + after his arrival in England, and a few days previous to the + publication of his interesting account of a mission to Ashantee, + that he had by every means in his power endeavoured, but + ineffectually, to get this manuscript _decyphered_ and translated + into English; that he had sent it to several persons, who had + retained it in their hands a considerable time, but had returned it + without a decypher, or even a complete translation. When delivered + into my hands, I transmitted him a _decypher_, and a translation + immediately. The following is my translation, which, in that + gentleman's account of Ashantee, is coupled with another + translation, _not perspicuous, but unintelligible_; for which see + Bowdich's "Account of a Mission to Ashantee," Appendix, No. 2. + + The original Arabic document, of which I have given a decypher in +407 the work before mentioned, is, (for the information of gentlemen + desirous of referring to the same,) deposited in the British + Museum. There are also, in the same work on Ashantee, several + papers decyphered by me, of certain routes in Africa. Now I think + it expedient here, to declare to the public, that whenever the + British Government, the Court of Admiralty, or private individuals, + have stood in need of translations, and decyphers from the Arabic, + they have invariably found it expedient, ultimately, to apply to me + for the same, after having, however, endeavoured ineffectually to + procure their information at the Universities, the Post Office, and + elsewhere: but as this declaration may appear to many incredible, I + will mention three instances in elucidation of this my assertion, + which, as they are all on record, will place this fact beyond + doubt. + + 1st. A vessel under Marocco colours, was, during last war, taken by + a British cruiser, and sent or brought into Plymouth, or other + port, in England. The captain and the ship were detained a + considerable time here; the former, at length, whose patience + became exhausted, expostulated at his detention, and insisted on + being released, if no interpreter in this commercial nation could + be found competent to translate his passport. _Mr. Slade, an + eminent proctor in Doctors' Commons_, then applied to me, after a + detention of, I believe, two months, and I translated the passport. +408 Mr. Slade very liberally told me, that whatever I chose to charge + for this service, which he had _sought in vain to accomplish_, + should be gratefully paid. I charged five guineas; and it was + instantly paid. The passport consisted of two lines and a half. + This was in the Court of Admiralty. Mr. Slade, who is an honourable + and respectable man, will of course not hesitate to corroborate the + accuracy of this statement. + + 2d. A letter was written by the present Sultan Soliman, emperor of + Marocco, &c. to our late revered sovereign, George III., in a more + courteous style than is usual for Muhamedan potentates to write to + Christian kings; with liberal offers on the part of the Sultan, + courting an augmentation of friendly intercourse, &c. This letter + (contrary to the usual courtesy of European courts) was neglected + some months, no answer being returned to it. It was sent to the + Universities for translation, but ineffectually; then to the Post + Office; and, at the expiration of some months, it was accidentally + transmitted to me, through the hands of the Right Honourable + Spencer Perceval, at that time Chancellor of the Exchequer, and I + delivered, at the request of that gentleman, a translation of it in + English. This letter was ten or fifteen times as long as the + passport before mentioned, and I charged thirty pounds for the + service. But the Treasury thought ten pounds a sufficient + remuneration, which I accepted!! +409 + This service was rendered to the British government, and I have + letters and documents in my possession, which corroborate this + fact. + + 3d. Was the translation of an Arabic manuscript, respecting Mungo + Park's death; delivered gratuitously to a private individual, viz. + Mr. Bowdich, before mentioned; to satisfy the curiosity of my + country, whose interest was excited respecting the fate of that + enterprising and indefatigable African traveller. Mr. Bowdich, who + is an honourable man, will undoubtedly confirm the truth of this + statement, to any gentleman who may be desirous of ascertaining the + fact. + + _The Shereef Ibrahim's account of Mungo Park's Death_. + + (THE AUTHOR'S TRANSLATION.) + + "In the name of God, the Merciful and Clement! + + "This narrative proceeds from the territory in Husa, called Eeaurie + or Yeaurie. We observed an extraordinary event or circumstance, but + we neither saw nor heard of the river which is called Kude. And as + we were sitting we heard the voice of children; and we saw a + vessel, the like to which in size we never saw before. And we saw + the king of Eeaurie send cattle and sheep, and a variety of + vegetables, in great abundance. And there were two men and one + woman, and two slaves; and they tied them in the vessel. There were +410 also in the vessel two white men, of the race called Christians: + and the Sultan of Eeaurie called aloud to them, to come out of the + vessel, but they would not. They proceeded to the country of Busa, + which is greater than that of the Sultan of Eeaurie. And as they + were sitting in the vessel, they hung[232], or were stopped by the + cape, or head-land of Kude." + + [Footnote 232: Probably by an impetuous current.] + + "And the people of the sultan of Busa called to them, and poured + their arms into the vessel; and the vessel reached the head-land or + cliff, and became attached or fixed to the head of the mountain or + projection in the river, and could not pass it. Then the men and + women of Busa collected themselves hostilely together, with arms of + all descriptions; and the vessel being unable to clear the + head-land, the man in the vessel killed his wife, and threw the + whole of her property into the river; they then threw themselves + into the river through fear. The news of this occurrence was then + conveyed to the Sultan Wawee, until it reached, by water, the + territory of Kanjee, in the country of the Sultan Wawee. And we + buried it in its earth; and one of them we saw not at all in the + water. And God knows the truth of this report from the mouth of the + Shereef Ibrahim. The end." + +411 OBSERVATION. + + After giving the foregoing translation, it behoves me to inform the + intelligent reader, that I wrote a letter to Mr. Bowdich, + communicating to him my observations on several notes, transmitted + to him by Sir William Ouseley, on the manuscript of which the + foregoing is a translation, in which I informed him, that in + decyphering the Arabic manuscript, I had observed the Oriental or + Asiatic punctuation; knowing that Mr. Bulmer had not letters with + the occidental punctuation. Several observations I made, respecting + the Arabic manuscripts which could not be elucidated here without + the Arabic type. I shall, therefore, omit them, and conclude by + observing, that in translating this manuscript, two gentlemen + (Arabic scholars) had translated _akkadan Fie Asfeena_, "two maids + in the ship;" which words I have translated, "were tied or bound in + the vessel:" the word _akkadan_ being the preterite of the verb + _akkad_, to bind. I was not surprised to hear that _one_ translator + had made such an interpretation; knowing that incredible errors + have been frequently committed by professed Professors in the + Hebrew language as well as in the Arabic. But when I heard, as I + did, that another Arabic scholar had given a similar + interpretation, I must confess that I was not a little surprised. + However, a circumstance soon after unravelled the mystery; for I + discovered that these two gentlemen, at a loss no doubt to +412 ascertain the meaning of _akkadan_, had referred to Richardson's + Arabic Dictionary, wherein the word is quoted to signify, in a + figurative sense, a virgin. _In a figurative sense!_ In translating + an ill-written, illiterate, and ungrammatical manuscript, these two + translators had had recourse to _rhetorical figures_, and actually + substituted a trope for what was a verb, generally used in the + West, signifying "to bind!" + + As it has been asserted in the following extract, that my + translation of the foregoing manuscript differs _only in a trifling + degree_ from that of Mr. Abraham Salam, I here insert my answer to + that assertion, leaving the intelligent reader to determine, + whether they are alike or materially different. + + _Extract from The Times, 3d May, 1819_. + + MUNGO PARK. + + The death of this enterprising traveller is now placed beyond any + doubt. Many accounts of it have been received, and although varying + as to the circumstances attending it, yet all agreeing that it has + taken place. One statement was given to Mr. Bowdich, while on his + mission to the King of the Ashantees, in 1817, by a Moor, who said + that he was an eye-witness; and the same gentleman procured an + Arabic manuscript declaratory of Mr. Park's death. This manuscript + has been deposited with the African Association, formed for the +413 purpose of extending researches in that part of the world. Two + translations have been made of this curious document; one by Mr. + Salam, an Egyptian, who accompanied Viscount Exmouth in his attack + on Algiers, as interpreter; and the other by Mr. Jackson, formerly + consul at one of the Barbary courts. The following is Mr. Salam's + translation, from which, however, _the one by Mr. Jackson only + differs in a trifling degree_. The words in italics have been + inserted by Mr. Salam, in order to render the reading more + perfect, and are not in the original:-- + + _A literal Translation of a Declaration written in a corrupted + Arabic, from the Town of Yaud, in the Interior of Africa_. + + "'In the name of God, the merciful and the munificent. This + declaration is issued from the town called Yaud, in the county of + Kossa. We (the writer) do witness the _following_ case (statement.) + We never saw, nor heard of the sea (river) called Koodd; but we sat + to hear (understood) the voice (report) of some persons, _saying_, + 'We saw a ship, equal to her we never saw before; and the King of + Yaud had sent plenty of every kind of food, with cows and sheep; + _there_ were two men, one woman, two male slaves, and two maids in + the ship; _the_ two white men _were_ derived from the race (sect) +414 of Nassri (Christ, or Christianity.) The King of Yaud asked them to + come out to him (to land); but they refused coming out (landing); + and they went to the _King_ of the country of Bassa, who is greater + than the King of Yaud; and _while_ they _were_ sitting in the ship, + and gaining a position (rounding) over the Cape of Koodd, and + _were_ in society with the people of the King of Bassa, the ship + reached (struck) a head of mountain, which took (destroyed) _her_ + away, and the men and women of Bassa all together, with every kind + of arms (goods); and the ship could find no way to avoid the + mountain; and the man who _was_ in the ship, killed his wife, and + threw all his property into the sea (river), and _then_ they threw + themselves _also_, from fear. Afterwards they took one _out of the_ + water till the news reached the town of Kanji, the country of the + King of Wawi; and the King of Wawi heard of it; he buried him in + his earth (grave), and the other we have not seen; perhaps he is in + the bottom of the water. And God knows best.' Authentic from the + mouth of Sherif Abraham.--Finis.' + + "In addition to the foregoing, another corroboration has been + obtained. Lieut. Col. Fitzclarence, when on his voyage down the + Mediterranean on board the _Tagus_ frigate, Capt. Dundas, with + despatches from the Marquis of Hastings, learnt from the governor + to the two sons of the Emperor of Marocco, who had been on a + pilgrimage to Mecca, and were then returning home, that he (Hadjee +415 Tahib) had been at Timbuctoo in 1807, and had heard of _two white_ + men, who came from the sea, having been near that place the year + before; and that they sold beads, and had no money to purchase + grain. This person added, that they went down the _Nile_ to the + eastward, and that general report stated that they _died of the + climate_. There can be little doubt but the _two white_ men here + alluded to were Mr. Park and his companion, Lieutenant Martyn, who + were at Sandsanding in Nov. 1805, and could, in the following year, + have been near Timbuctoo. Sandsanding is the place from whence the + last dispatches were dated by Mr. Park; and Amadi Fatouma, who was + his guide afterwards, was sent to learn his fate, and returned with + an account of Mr. Park being drowned. The statement of this person + was, however, of such a nature as to excite suspicions of its + correctness; and hopes were entertained that Mr. Park had not met + with such an untimely fate. Fourteen years have now almost elapsed + since the date of his last dispatches; and this circumstance is of + itself sufficient to demonstrate, that he is to be added to the + catalogue of those who have perished in their attempts to explore + the interior of Africa.--_Englishman_." + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE BRITISH STATESMAN. + + Sir;--Seeing in your Paper of yesterday a translation of the Arabic +416 manuscript respecting Mr. Mungo Park's death, which is deposited + with the African Association, and _decyphered and transcribed by + me_ in Mr. Bowdich's account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480, and + perceiving that the errors in _that translation_ are thus + propagated to the public through the medium of the London Papers; + which although perhaps of little consequence to the general reader, + yet, as they are of importance to the critic, and to the + investigator of African affairs, I shall take the liberty of + offering a few observations on the subject. + + The following passage, in the translation above alluded to, might + have passed the public eye without animadversion as the language of + a foreigner, (as we have understood Mr. Salam to be,) but from the + intelligent Editor of a London daily paper, might we not have + expected more correct phraseology?[233] + + [Footnote 233: "The phrases thus objected to by our learned + Correspondent, were contained in the translations furnished to + us in common with other papers, and not the language of the + Editor. Indeed, this appears to be admitted by our + Correspondent himself, in the apparently very just comments he + has thus favoured us with.--EDITOR."] + + "The ship reached a head of mountain which took her away, and the + men and women of Bassa, altogether with every kind of arms, and the + ship could find no way to avoid the mountain." + + I have no hesitation in declaring to be incorrect the first two +417 lines of Mr. Abraham Salam's translation, inserted in your paper + of yesterday, which runs thus:-- + + "_This declaration is issued from the town called YAUD, in the + country of KOSSA_." + + My translation of this passage, inserted in Mr. Bowdich's account + of a Mission to Ashantee, page 478, runs thus:-- + + "_This narrative proceeds from the territory in HAUSA called + ECAUREE_." + + No one, I presume, will say that there is not a _manifest_ + difference between these two translations--between _the town called + Yaud, in the country of Kossa_, and the _territory of Hausa, called + Ecauree_. + + One of these translations must therefore necessarily be incorrect. + The Arabic manuscript decyphered and transcribed by me, is inserted + in Mr. Bowdich's work, page 480. Those who may feel interested in + ascertaining which is the correct and precise translation, are + requested to refer to the transcript above-mentioned, or to the + original manuscript, in the possession of the African Association. + As for myself, I presume I am right; and would submit the decision + to the judgment of either Sir Gore Ousley, or to that of Sir + William, or to the opinion of any Arabic scholar, to decide this + question. + + If, Mr. Editor, you had an Arabic type, to save the trouble of + referring to the original, I should ask the Arabic scholar if it + were possible for any man to translate the following passage in +418 that document:--"Bled Hausa eekalu Ecuree"--"the town called Yaud, + in the country of Cossa;" whilst I should maintain that it would + admit of no other translation but the following, viz.--"the country + of Hausa, called Ecauree." + + If you think this elucidation of the translation of the Manuscript + of Park's death sufficiently interesting to the public to deserve a + place in your intelligent paper, it is very much at your service. + + From, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + Professor of African Languages, and formerly British Consul and + Agent for Holland, Sweden, and Denmark, at Santa Cruz, South + Barbary.[234] + + _Circus, Minories, May 4._ 1819. + + [Footnote 234: See BRITISH STATESMAN, May 6th, 1819.] + +419 + + LETTERS RESPECTING AFRICA, + FROM + _J.G. JACKSON AND OTHERS._ + + + + + _On the Plague._ + + To JAMES WILLIS, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. + + London, October 30, 1804. + + My dear Sir, + + Your letter reached my hands yesterday; but I am afraid I shall not + be able to satisfy you in every enquiry which you have made + relative to the plague in Barbary in 1799. I have, however, no + doubt but the plague which has prevailed in Spain has originated + from it. Some of the following observations may probably be of + service to you. + + It does not appear to be ascertained how the plague originated in + Fas in the year 1799. Some persons have ascribed it to infected + merchandise received at Fas from the East; whilst others maintain + that the locusts which had infested Western Barbary during seven + years, destroying the crops, the vegetables, and every green thing, + even to the bark of the trees, produced such a scarcity, that the +420 poor could obtain scarcely any thing to eat but the locusts; and + living on them for several months, till a most abundant crop + enabled them to satisfy the cravings of nature, they ate abundantly + of the new corn, which producing a fever, brought on the contagion. + At this time the small-pox pervaded the country, and was generally + fatal. The small-pox is thought to be the forerunner of this + species of contagion, as appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, + which gives a full account of the same disorder having carried off + two-thirds of the inhabitants of West Barbary about four hundred + years since; but, however the dreadful epidemy originated, the + leading features of the disorder were novel, and more dreadful than + the common plague of Turkey, or that of Syria or Egypt, as the + following observations will demonstrate. + + In the month of April, 1799, a plague of the most dreadful kind + manifested itself at the city of Old Fas, which soon after + communicated itself to the new city. About this time the Emperor + Muley Soliman ben Muhamed was preparing a numerous army, and was on + the eve of departure to visit his Southern dominions, and to take + possession of the province of Abda, which had not acknowledged him + as Emperor, but was, as well as the port of Saffy, in a state of + rebellion. The Emperor left Fas early in the summer, and proceeded + to Sallee, Mazagan, and Saffee; thence to Marocco and Mogodor. Now + the plague began to kindle in all the Southern provinces, first + carrying off one or two the first day, three or four the second +421 day, six or eight the third day, and increasing progressively till + it amounted to a daily mortality of two in a hundred of the whole + population; continuing _with unabated violence_, ten, fifteen, + twenty days, being of longer duration in old than in new towns; + then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one thousand + a-day, to nine hundred, to eight hundred and so continuing to + decrease till it disappeared. + + When it raged at the town of Mogodor, a small village (Deabet) + situated two miles South-east of Mogodor remained uninfected, + although the communication was open between these two places. On + the thirty-fourth day after its first appearance at Mogodor, this + village received the infection, where, after committing dreadful + havock among the human species for twenty-one days carried off one + hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, the population + of the village before the plague visited it. After this, none died; + but those who were infected recovered, some losing the use of a + leg, or an arm, or an eye. + + Many similar circumstances might be mentioned relative to the + numerous villages scattered about the extensive province of Haha, + all which shared the like, or a worse fate. Travelling through this + province after the plague had disappeared, I saw many ruins, which + had been flourishing villages before the plague. Making enquiry + concerning the population of these dismal remains of the +422 pestilence, I was informed, that one village contained six hundred + inhabitants; that only four had escaped. Others, which had + contained four and five hundred, had left seven or eight to lament + the calamities they had suffered. + + Whenever any families retired to the country, to avoid the + infection; on returning to town, when apparently all infection had + disappeared, they were generally attacked, and died. The + destruction of the human species in the province of Upper and + LowerSuse was much greater than elsewhere. The capital city of this + province (Tarodant) lost, when the infection was at its _acm_, + about eight hundred each day; the city of Marocco lost one thousand + each day; the cities of Old and New Fas from twelve to fifteen + hundred each day; insomuch, that, in these large towns, the + mortality was such, that the living had not time to bury the dead: + they were therefore thrown altogether into large holes, which were + covered over when full of dead bodies. + + Young and healthy robust persons were generally attacked first; + then women and children; lastly, thin, sickly, and old people. + _After the plague had totally subsided, we saw men, who had been + common labourers, enjoying their thousands, and keeping horses, + without knowing how to ride them. Provisions became extremely + cheap, for the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + had nobody now to own them. Day-labour increased enormously. Never +423 was equality in the human species more evident than at this time_. + _When corn was to be ground, or bread made, both were done in the + houses of the rich, and prepared by themselves; for the very few + poor people whom the plague had spared were insufficient for the + wants of the affluent, and they were consequently obliged to work + for themselves_. The country being now depopulated, vast tribes of + Arabs from the Desert poured into Suse and Draha; settling + themselves on the river Draha and in Suse, and wherever they found + little or no population. + + The symptoms of the disorder varied in different patients; in some + it manifested itself by a sudden shivering, in others by delirium, + succeeded by a violent thirst. Cold water was drank eagerly by the + imprudent, and generally proved fatal. Some had one, two, or three, + some more biles, generally in the groin, under the arm, or near the + breast; some had more. Some had no biles, nor any outward + disfiguration; these were invariably carried off in less than + twenty-four hours. I recommended Mr. Baldwin's remedy[235], applied + according to his directions; and I do not know one instance of its + failing, when properly applied, and sufficiently persevered in. + + [Footnote 235: Of unction of the body with olive oil.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy, which has been ravaging Spain + lately, is the same disorder with the one above described. We have + been told that it was communicated originally to Spain by two +424 infected persons, who went from Tangier to Estapona, and eluded the + vigilance of the guards. We have been assured that it was + communicated by some persons infected, who landed in Spain from a + vessel that had loaded produce at Laraich, in West Barbary. We have + also been informed that a Spanish privateer, which had occasion to + land its crew for water in some part of West Barbary, caught the + infection, and afterwards went to Cadiz and communicated it to the + town. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + _Death of Mungo Park_. + + May, 1812. + + The doubts which may have existed of the fate of this eminent man + are now removed, by the certain accounts lately received from + Goree, of his having perished, through the hostility of the + natives, on one of the branches of the Niger. The particulars have + been transmitted to Sir Joseph Banks, by Governor Maxwell, of + Goree, who received them from Isaco[236], a Moor, sent inland by + the Governor, for the purpose of enquiry. In a letter to Mr. + Dickson, of Covent-garden, brother-in-law to Mr. Park, Sir Joseph + thus writes:-- + + "I have read Isaco's translated journal; by which it appears, that +425 the numerous European retinue of Mungq Park quickly and miserably + died, leaving, at the last, only himself and a Mr. Martyn. + Proceeding on their route, they stopped at a settlement, from + which, according to custom, they sent a present to the chief whose + territory they were next to pass. This present having been + treacherously withheld, the chief considered it, in the travellers, + as a designed injury and neglect. _On their approaching, in a + canoe, he assembled his people on a narrow channel of rocks[237], + and assailed them so violently with arrows, that some of the rowers + were killed_. This caused Mr. Park and Mr. Martyn to make an effort + by swimming to reach the shore; in which attempt they both were + drowned. The canoe shortly afterwards sunk, and only one hired + native escaped. Every appurtenance also of the travellers was lost + or destroyed, except a sword-belt which had belonged to Mr. Martyn, + and which Isaco redeemed, and brought with him to Goree." + + [Footnote 236: Isaco was a Jew, not a Moor.--J.G.J.] + + [Footnote 237: There is a remarkable confirmation of this + quotation from Sir Joseph's letter in Mr. _Jackson's_ + translation of the Arabic manuscript of Mungo Park's death, for + which see Bowdich's Account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480.; + also Annals of Oriental Literature, No. I.] + + _Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of + Africa_. + + May, 1812. + + The young German gentleman of the name of Rontgen, who left England +426 about a twelve-month since for Africa, in order to prosecute + discoveries in the interior of that country, has, it is said, been + murdered by the Arabs, before he had proceeded any great distance + from Mogodor, where he spent some time perfecting himself in the + Arabic language. He was a promising young man, and an enthusiast in + the cause in which he was lost, and supposed to understand the + Arabic language better than any European who ever before entered + Africa. At an early age he formed the plan of going to that + country, and gave up his connections and a competency in Germany, + to prosecute his intentions. His father was a character well known + in Europe, who raised himself from obscurity to the greatest + celebrity by his talent for mechanics. He was at one time worth a + million, but was ruined by the French revolution. + + _The following Letter from James Willis, Esq. late Consul to + Senigambia, is extracted from the Gentleman's Magazine for May, + 1812_. + + COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. + + May 5. 1812. + + At a time when our ancient rivals and enemies are exerting all + their powers to destroy the British commerce, and have nearly + effected their gigantic schemes of cutting off all communication + between Great Britain and the various ports, states, and kingdoms + of Europe; at such a time when we are in imminent danger of losing +427 the markets of a quarter of the globe, it becomes essentially + important to discover other channels for our commerce, and other + markets for our manufactures. + + In this point of view, the information lately communicated to the + public by Mr. James Grey Jackson, in his "Travels in Africa," + becomes highly interesting to the statesman as well as to the + merchant. From the account which he has given of the city of + Timbuctoo, and its commercial relations, there is great reason to + conclude, that if we could find means to open and maintain a safe + and easy communication with that great emporium, and with the rich, + fertile, and populous regions in its vicinity, we might acquire a + market for our manufactures, that would in time compensate for the + loss of that of Europe. + + In the warehouses of Timbuctoo, are accumulated the manufactures of + India and of Europe; and from thence the immense population that + dwells upon the banks of the Niger is supplied. There is no doubt + that we could furnish the articles they want, upon much lower terms + than they can obtain them at present; and, in return, we should + furnish the best market they could have for their gold, ivory, + gums, and other rich products, and raw materials. + + Now, it certainly appears to me, and I think it must appear to + every man who takes the trouble of investigating the subject, that, + provided Government would give proper support to the enterprise, + this important communication might easily be established. _For this +428 purpose, nothing more is necessary than to take a fortified station + upon the African coast, somewhere about the 29th degree of north + latitude, near the confines of the Marocco dominions, to serve as a + safe magazine or emporium for merchandize. From this station it + would be easy to maintain a direct correspondence with the opulent + merchants of Timbuctoo; regular caravans might be established to + depart at fixed periods; the protection of the Arabs can at all + times be purchased at stipulated prices, which may be considered as + premiums of insurance, or as a tax for convoy_, and thus in a + little time these caravans might carry out merchandize, to and from + Timbuctoo, with as much regularity and safety, and with less + expense, than our fleets convey our goods to and from the West + Indies. + + The expense of such a fortified station as is here proposed, would + be very moderate, in comparison with the advantages it would + produce; and it would be easy to draw out a plan for it; but I do + not think it would be proper to go into a detail here,--_"non est + hic locus."_ + + It has been well observed, that commerce is the key of Africa; and + I shall only add, that if the plan I have suggested were carried + into execution, these interesting regions of Africa, that have + heretofore baffled the attempts of curiosity and enterprise, and + remained for so many ages a "sealed book" to the inhabitants of + Europe, would soon be explored and laid open. This is an object +429 that cannot be indifferent to a prince, who has so evidently + evinced a desire to patronise science, and who is undoubtedly + desirous to encourage, to facilitate, and to increase, still + further the vast geographical discoveries which have added such + lustre to the reign of his august father. + + To return to Mr. Jackson's book. This work contains, besides the + information that more directly concerns the statesman and the + merchant, much interesting matter for the natural and moral + philosopher, as well as for the general reader. The author makes no + pretension to fine writing; his style is plain, unaffected, and + perspicuous, and there is as much new, authentic, and important + matter in the book, as in the hands of the French writers of + African travels, (Golberry, Vaillant, and Savary, for instance,) + would have been spread over three times the space. Upon the whole, + it is the most valuable work of the kind that has appeared for many + years. I hope the author will reap the reward which his labours + have so well deserved. + + JAMES WILLIS. + + _Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called + Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in + Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication + between Timbuctoo and Egypt_. + + Sir, + + The venomous spider (_Tendaraman_). This beautiful reptile is + somewhat similar to a hornet in size and colour, but of a rounder +430 form; its legs are about an inch long, black, and very strong; it + has two bright yellow lines, latitudinally crossing its back; it + forms its web octagonally between bushes, the diameter being two or + three yards; it places itself in the centre of its web, which is so + fine, as to be almost invisible, and attaches to whatever may pass + between those bushes. It is said to make always towards the head, + before it inflicts its deadly wound. In the cork forests, the + sportsman, eager in his pursuit of game, frequently carries away on + his garments the _tenderaman_, whose bite is so poisonous, that the + patient survives but a few hours. + + Charmers of serpents (_Aisawie_).--These _Aisawie_ have a + considerable sanctuary at Fas. They go to Suse in large bodies + about the month of July to collect serpents, which they pretend to + render harmless by a certain form of words, incantation, or + invocation to _Seedy ben Aisah_, their tutelary saint. They have an + annual feast, at which time they dance and shake their heads + quickly, during a certain period, till they become giddy, when they + run about the towns frantic, attacking any person that may have a + black or dark dress on; they bite, scratch, and devour any thing + that comes in their way. They will attack an _unjumma_, or portable + fire, and tear the lighted charcoal to pieces with their hands and + mouths. I have seen them take the serpents, which they carry about, + and devour them alive, the blood streaming down their clothes. The +431 incredible accounts of their feats would fill a volume; the + following observations may suffice to give the reader an idea of + these extraordinary fanatics. The _buska_ and the [238]_el effah_ + are enticed out of their holes by them; they handle them with + impunity, though their bite is ascertained to be mortal; they put + them into a cane basket, and throw it over their shoulders: these + serpents they carry about the country, and exhibit them to the + people. I have seen them play with them, and suffer them to twist + round their bodies in all directions, without receiving any injury + from them. I have often enquired how they managed to do this, but + never could get any direct or satisfactory answer; they assure you, + however, that faith in their saint, and the powerful influence of + the name of the divinity, (_Isim Allah_,) enables them to work + these miracles: they maintain themselves in a miserable way, by + donations from the spectators before whom they exhibit. This art of + fascinating serpents was known by the ancient Africans, as appears + from the _Marii_ and _Psilii_, who were Africans, and showed proofs + of it at Rome. + + [Footnote 238: For a description of these deadly serpents, see + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. chapter on Zoology.] + + _Bu Telleese Nyctalopia_.--This ophthalmic disease is little known + in the northern provinces; but in Suse and Sahara it prevails. A + defect of vision comes on at dusk, but without pain; the patient is +432 deprived of sight, so that he cannot see distinctly, even with the + assistance of candles. During my residence at Agadeer, a cousin of + mine was dreadfully afflicted with this troublesome disease, losing + his sight at evening, and continuing in that state till the rising + sun. A Deleim Arab, a famous physician, communicated to me a + sovereign remedy, which being extremely simple, I had not + sufficient faith in his prescription to give it a trial, till + reflecting that the simplicity of the remedy was such as to + preclude the possibility of its being injurious, it was applied + inwardly; and twelve hours afterwards, to my astonishment, the + boy's eyes were perfectly well, and continued so during twenty-one + days, when I again had recourse to the same remedy, and it effected + a cure, on one administration, during thirty days, when it again + attacked him; the remedy was again applied with the same beneficial + effect as before. + + _Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia, or Night + Blindness_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA.) + + Sir, + + Having read your animadversions on the additional matter introduced + in my second edition of an "Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo," &c. + (see Literary Panorama for April last, p. 713.) wherein you +433 conceive that I am reprehensible for not having discovered publicly + the remedy alluded to as an infallible cure to the _Butellise_ or + _Nyctalopia_, I should observe that I was not apprised, (till I + read those animadversions,) that this was a disorder incident to + the inhabitants in Europe, or that it affected our seamen on the + Mediterranean station. But, if that be the case, and it should be + found expedient and beneficial to the interests of Great Britain, + that this remedy should be divulged for the alleviation of our + meritorious seamen in His Majesty's service, I am willing to make + the discovery to any respectable medical man who may be appointed + by Government as physician or surgeon on the Mediterranean station. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + May 18. 1812. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA. + + Circus, Minories, June 21. 1815. + + Sir, + + I request you will contradict in your next publication the + assertion of my _decease_, which is calculated to injure + considerably my interests abroad as a merchant. (Vide your Review + of Parke's Travels, page 377.) In answer to this unfounded + information, which has been propagated in your review of last + month, I have to acquaint you that I am not only in the land of the + living, but in excellent health, and waiting to hear the testimony +434 of some stranger or European traveller (since the Africans are not + to be relied on), who shall establish the fact of _the junction of + the Nile of Sudan with that of Egypt; or at least, the + approximation of these two mighty streams_. And notwithstanding + _the_ insidious reflections and censures passed on the native + Africans, from whom I gathered much of the information communicated + to the public in my account of Marocco, it must be allowed by all + liberal-minded men, that a native is more likely to give an + accurate account of his country than a foreigner; and a residence + of sixteen years in a country may be allowed to give a man of + common observation experience enough to select judiciously such + intelligence as might be relied on; and I have no hesitation in + declaring it to be my unalterable opinion, that _so soon as a + traveller shall have returned from the interior of Africa, many of + my assertions respecting those regions will be confirmed_, and that + information founded on the testimony of unprejudiced and + disinterested Africans, will be found not so contemptible as some + learned persons have imagined. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. +435 + + _Critical Observations on Abstracts from the Travels of Ali Bey, + and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, + and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, + Vol. I. No. II. page 264_. + + London, Dec. 19. 1817. + + In the discussion on Aly Bey's Travels, in the Journal of Science + and the Arts, above mentioned, p. 270. are the following words:-- + + "Aly Bey has added, in a separate chapter, all the information he + received, respecting a mediterranean sea, from a merchant of + Marocco, of the name of Sidi Matte Buhlal, who had resided many + years at Timbuctoo, and in other countries of Sudan or Nigritia, + the most material of which was, that Tombut is a large town, very + trading, and inhabited by Moors and Negroes, and was at the same + distance from the Nile Abid, (or Nile of the Negroes, or Niger,) as + Fez is from Wed Sebu, that is to say, _about three hundred English + miles_." + + As this passage is quoted from Aly Bey, by the first literary + society of Great Britain, and is, therefore, calculated to create a + doubt of the accuracy of what I have said, respecting the distance + of the Nile El Abeed from Timbuctoo, in the enlarged editions of my + account of Marocco, &c. page 297. I consider it a duty which I owe +436 to my country and to myself, not to let this sentence pass through + the press without submitting to the public my observations on the + subject. + + Sidi Matte Buhlal is a native of Fas: the name is properly Sidi El + Mattie B Hellal. This gentleman is one out of twenty authorities + from whom I derived the information recorded in my account of + Marocco, respecting Timbuctoo and the interior of Africa; his whole + family, which is respectable and numerous, are among the first + Timbuctoo merchants that have their establishments at Fas. I + should, however, add, that among the many authorities from whom I + derived my information relative to Timbuctoo, there were two + muselmen in particular,--merchants of respectability and + intelligence, who came from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, soon after _I + opened that port to Dutch commerce, in the capacity of agent of + Holland, by order of the then Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid_, + brother and predecessor of the present Emperor Soliman. These two + gentlemen had resided at Timbuctoo, and in other parts of Sudan, + fifteen years, trading during the whole of that period with + Darbeyta, on the coast of the Red Sea, with Jinnie, Housa, Wangara, + Cashna, and other countries of the interior, from whom, and from + others, equally intelligent and credible, I procured my information + respecting the _mediterranean sea in the interior of Africa, called + El Bahar Assudan, i.e. the Sea of Sudan_, situated fifteen days' +437 journey east of Timbuctoo. These two muselmen merchants had amassed + considerable fortunes at Timbuctoo, and were on their journey to + Fas, their native place; but in consequence of a civil war at that + time raging throughout West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Haha, through which it was indispensable that they should pass, + on their way to Fas, they sojourned with me two months; after which + they departed for Fas with a caravan. + + These intelligent Moors gave me much information respecting + Timbuctoo, and the interior countries where they had resided; they + sold me many articles of Sudanic manufacture, among which were + three pieces of fine cotton cloth, manufactured at Timbuctoo, and + some ornaments of pure gold _in or molu_, of exquisite workmanship, + of the manufacture of Jinnie; one of these pieces of Timbuctoo + manufacture, of cotton interwoven with silk, of a square + blue-and-white pattern, dyed with _indigo of Timbuctoo_, I had the + honour to present to the British Museum, in April, 1796[239], where + it is now deposited. + + [Footnote 239: This piece of cloth, about two yards wide and + five long, I had the honour of offering to Sir Joseph Banks, + who declined receiving it; but at the same time suggested that + it was a manufacture deserving public notice, and would be + considered an acceptable present by the British Museum.] + + I have been led into this digression from certain insinuations that + have been[240] insidiously propagated, reflecting on the accuracy +438 of my statements respecting the interior of Africa; and I must add, + that I always have felt, and still feel confident, that in + proportion as we shall become more acquainted with the interior of + this unexplored continent, my account will be so much the more + authenticated: my confidence in this opinion, (however dogmatical + it may appear,) is founded on the original and intelligent sources + of my information; on a long residence and general acquaintance + with all the principal inhabitants of West Barbary, whose + connections lay in Sudan, and at Timbuctoo; in a competent + knowledge and practical acquaintance with the languages of North + Africa, and a consequent ability to discriminate the accuracy of + the sources of my intelligence. + + [Footnote 240: See my letter to the editor of the Monthly + Magazine, for March, 1817; page 125.] + + This being premised, I now proceed to offer to the public my + animadversions on the above quotation from the Journal of Science + and the Arts. + + I have actually crossed the Wed Sebu, or the River Sebu, alluded to + in the above quotation, which passes through the Berebber Kabyl of + Zimure Shelleh; I have crossed the same river several times at the + city of Mequinez, and also at Meheduma, where it enters the + Atlantic Ocean, in lat. 34 15' north, and from this experimental + knowledge of the course of that river, I can affirm, with + confidence, that it is not inaccurately laid down in my map of West + Barbary[241], and that it is not three hundred English miles from +439 Fas, but only six English miles from that city. I can also assert, + from incontestable testimony, that Tombut, or Timbuctoo, is[242] + not three hundred miles from the Nile El Abeed, but only about + twelve English miles from that stream, the latter being south of + the town. + + [Footnote 241: For which see page 55.] + + [Footnote 242: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 297.] + + Respecting the following passage in the above quoted Journal of + Science and the Arts, p. 272, "This river contains the fierce + animals called _Tzemsah_, which devour men," I shall only observe, + that _Tzemsah_ is the word in Arabic which denominates the + _crocodile_. Farther on, in the same page, we have the words,--"We + must suppose that the Joliba makes at this spot a strange winding, + which gives to the inhabitants of Marocco the opinion they + express." This supposed winding is actually asserted to exist, and + is denominated by the Arabs[243] _El Kose Nile_, i.e. the arch or + curve of the Nile, and is situated between the cities of Timbuctoo + and Jinnie. + + [Footnote 243: Idem, note, p. 305.] + + I should here adduce some further testimony respecting the course + of the Nile El Abeed; but as the quotation from Aly Bey in the + above Journal of Sciences and the Arts, page 271. asserts it to be + towards the east, and again, in page 272. declares it to be towards + the west, such incoherence, I presume, requires no confutation. I + consider that it originates from Moorish inaccuracy. +440 + The _La Mar Zarak_ of Adams, if any such river exists, may be a + corruption of _Sagea el Humra_, i.e. the Red Stream, a river in the + southern confines of Sahara, nearly in the same longitude with + Timbuctoo. This river the late Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid, + announced as the southern boundary of his dominions; but from the + accounts which I have had of it, it was not of that magnitude which + Adams ascribes to the Mar Zarak, nor was it precisely in the + neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, when I was a resident in South Barbary: + rivers, however, _which pass through sandy or desert districts_, + often change their courses in the space of twenty-four hours, by + the drifting of the moving sands impelled by the wind; instances of + which I have myself often witnessed. + + If this river proceeded from the Desert, it might have had the name + of _El Bahar Sahara_, i.e. the River of Sahara; the word _La Mar_ + is a lingua franca, or corrupt Spanish word, signifying the sea, + and might have been used to this poor sailor by a native to make it + the more intelligible to him. Many Spanish words having crept into + the Arabic vocabulary, and are occasionally used by those Africans + who have had intercourse with Europeans. + +441 The next passage for animadversion is as follows:-- + + "The state in which he represented Timbuctoo, and its being the + residence of a Negro sovereign, instead of a muselman." + + The state in which he has represented Timbuctoo, is, I think, + extremely inaccurate; and being a slave, it is more than probable, + that he was placed in a Fondaque[244], or Caravansera, belonging to + the King, which he _mistook_ for his palace; but that his narrative + should be deemed inaccurate, because he has described the town of + Timbuctoo to be under the sovereignty of a Negro prince, is to me + incomprehensible. + + [Footnote 244: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocoo, &c. + p. 298.] + + The various sources of information that I have investigated, + uniformly declare that sovereign to be a Negro, and that his name + in the year 1800, was Woolo. This account, it appears, is confirmed + by Adams, who says,[245] Woolo was King of Timbuctoo in 1810, and + that he was then old and grey-headed. Some years after the above + period, Riley's Narrative, epitomised in Leyden's Discoveries and + Travels in Africa, vol. i., _speaking of the King of Timbuctoo, + says, this sovereign is a very large, old, grey-headed black man_, + called _Shegar_, which means Sultan. This, however, I must observe + is a misinterpretation of the word _Shegar_, which is an + African-Arabic word, and signifies _red or carrotty_, and is a word + applicable to his physiognomy; but certainly not to his rank:--_Abd +442 Shegar_, a carrotty or red Negro. If these two testimonies, since + 1800, be correct, then the _anachronism_ of which I am accused in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, (title Africa,) + is misapplied. + + [Footnote 245: Since publishing this letter, Mr. Bowdich, in + his Account of Ashantee, pages 194, 195, says, Woolo was King + of Timbuctoo in 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bowdich was at + Ashantee.] + + Many of this king's civil officers, however, in 1800, were + muselmen; but the military were altogether Negroes. + + However fervent the zeal of Muhamedanism may be at Timbuctoo, it is + not, I imagine, sufficient to convert the Negroes, who have not the + best opinion of the Muhamedan tenets. The Negroes, however, are + disposed to abjure idolatry for any other form of religion that + they can be persuaded to think preferable, or that holds out a + better prospect; a convincing proof of which has been seen by the + readiness of the Africans of Congo and Angola, to renounce their + idolatry for the Christian faith, by the conversion of thousands to + that faith by the indefatigable zeal of the catholic missionaries, + when the Portuguese first discovered those countries, and which, if + the Sovereign of Portugal had persevered with that laudable zeal + with which he began to promote the conversion of the Africans, the + inhabitants of those extensive and populous countries might, at + this day, have been altogether members of the Christian church!! +443 + _On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, + or of Sudan_. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.[246] + + [Footnote 246: Inserted in March, 1817.] + + Sir, + + London, Jan. 25. 1817. + + Having read some annotations, in the Journal of a Mission to the + Interior of Africa, by Mungo Park, in 1805, which are calculated to + persuade some persons, that my Account of the Interior of Africa is + not altogether authentic, I feel myself called upon to offer some + cursory observations to the public, in refutation of those + aspersions. (Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Mungo Park's Second Journey, + in 1805, pages 114. and 115.) + + Although I assert, on the concurrent testimony of the best informed + and most intelligent natives of Sudan, that there exists a + [247]water communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, I do not + maintain that the [248]Nile of Sudan falls into the [249]Nile of + Egypt, but that it hath a communication with it, or with some river +444 that connects itself with the Nile of Egypt, which opinion is + confirmed by Mr. Hornemann, on African authority. + + [Footnote 247: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 310.] + + [Footnote 248: (_Nile el Kabeer_) the Great Nile, (_Bahar el + Abeed_, or _Nile el Abeed_) the Nile of Slaves or Negroes, + (_Nile Sudan_) the Nile of Sudan or Nigritia, are the various + names applied to the river that passes by Timbuctoo, and + through the interior of Sudan, from west to east.] + + [Footnote 249: _Nile Masser_ is the name applied to the Nile of + Egypt.] + + It is very probable that this junction is formed by a stream that + flows westward towards Wangara through the country called [250] + Bahar Kulla, and Lake Dwi, from the source of the Nile of Egypt, or + from that part of the Jibbel Kumri, or Lunar Mountains, which form + the southern boundary of Donga. + + If this be so, the junction of the Nile el Abeed, of Timbuctoo, and + the Bahar el Ahed of Donga[251], (or more properly the Bahar el + Abeed,) is established, and the water communication between + Timbuctoo and Cairo is proved; admitting, however, that the Negroes + reported by me to have performed the[252] voyage by water, took + their boat or canoe ashore, to ascend the cataracts, in the country + between Wangara and Donga. + + [Footnote 250: _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic term, signifying the + sea altogether, implying an alluvial country, (probably forming + a part of the mediterranean sea of central Africa). See Major + Rennel's Map in the Proceedings of the African Association, + vol. i. 8vo. page 209. lat. N. 10, long. 18.] + + [Footnote 251: Vide Major Kennel's Map in the Proceedings of + the African Association, 8vo. edition, vol. i. page 209.] + + [Footnote 252: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 312.] + + Mr. Park's annotator, in the spirit of controversy with which he + appears to be endued, may say, the fact of this stream running to +445 the west towards Wangara, cannot be admitted, because Mr. Browne + saw a ridge of mountains extending in that direction; but Mr. + Browne did not ascertain that this was an uninterrupted ridge; the + river might therefore pass through some chasm similar to that which + I have seen in crossing the Atlas Mountains, or through some + intermediate plain. + + The annotator further says[253], "It is needless to comment upon + such hearsay statements, received from an African traveller." This + assertion being calculated to impress on the public mind, that I + founded my hypothesis respecting the junction of the Niles of + Africa on the simple and single statement of one individual African + traveller; I feel it incumbent on me thus publicly to declare, that + _the junction alluded to is founded on the universal and concurrent + testimony of all the most intelligent and well informed native + African travellers_ (for the most part natives of Sudan), not one + of whom differed in this opinion, but unanimously declared it to be + an uncontroverted fact, that the waters of the Nile of Egypt joined + the waters of the Nile el Abeed, which passes near Timbuctoo to the + east; and that there exists, without a doubt, a water communication + between Cairo in Egypt, and Timbuctoo in Sudan. Now, if, as M. de + Bailly observes, "_la vrit se fait connatre par le concours des +446 tmoignages_," it must be admitted, by men of liberal sentiments, + that it is somewhat more than a hearsay statement; and what better + foundation can there possibly be for the truth of any geological + fact, than the concurrent testimony of the best-informed natives of + the country described? + + [Footnote 253: Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Park's Second Journey + page 115.] + + With respect to precision being unfavourable to authenticity[254], + I consider this a new dogma; and if I were disposed to confute it, + (but it carries with it its own confutation,) I should point out + many hearsay evidences, precisely recorded in my Account of + Marocco, which have been confirmed already by Ali Bey (El Abassy) + and many others; but "_non est hic locus_." + + J.G. JACKSON. + + [Footnote 254: Vide Appendix, No. II. to Park's Second Journey + page 103.] + + _Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of + Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of + Marocco, &c._ + + London, 16th Jan, 1818. + + It is a satisfaction to perceive (after a lapse of eight or nine + years since the publication of my account of Marocco and the + interior of Africa), that in proportion as we are becoming better + acquainted with the interior of that continent, my account becomes + more authenticated, notwithstanding the attempts that have been so +447 insidiously made to invalidate it. + + The various hypotheses, for the most part founded in theory, that + have within the last seven years, been adopted respecting the + course of the _Nile el Abeed_ (Niger), are beginning now to fall to + the ground, and the learned and judicious editor of the Supplement + to the New Encyclopedia Britannica, founding his opinions, as it + should seem, upon the facts that have been corroborated respecting + the interior of Africa, has actually adopted my opinion;[255] viz. + + That there is an union of waters between the Nile of Egypt, and + that of Sudan[256]; where the common receptacle is, I have not + ventured to declare, but it is probable that it may be in the Bahar + Kulla[257], in Wangara, or in the [258]Sea of Sudan; the opinion + that the junction is formed in the Sea of Sudan is supported by the + Shereef Imhammed, who saw the Nile at Cashna, and declared that it + was so rapid there from east to west, that vessels could not stem + it. + + [Footnote 255: See my letter to the Editor of the Monthly + Magazine, vol. xliii. March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 256: It is incorrect to say, that the word _Nile_ is + applied, in Africa, to any great river: the name, I can with + confidence declare, is never applied to any river in North + Africa, except the Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan; whoever + has propagated this opinion has mistaken the matter altogether. + See Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. page 540.] + + [Footnote 257: See Major Rennell's Map of North Africa, lat. + north 6, long, west 18, &c.] + + [Footnote 258: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 310.] + +448 Again: Parke's intelligence, in his second journey, demonstrates an + union of waters in the (Baseafeena[259]) Sea of Sudan; for he says, + the current was said to be sometimes one way, and sometimes + another; which I will take the liberty to interpret thus:-- + + That the current from the Eastern Nile, was westward into the Sea + of Sudan, and the current of the Western Nile was eastward into the + same sea of Sudan: thus the current would be sometimes one way, and + sometimes another, making the Sea of Sudan the common receptacle + for the Eastern as well as for the Western Nile. + + Ptolemy's Sea of Nigritia is undoubtedly the same with my Sea of + Sudan; _Lybia Palus_[260] being the Latin denomination, as _Bahar + Sudan_ is the Arabic for the interior lake called the Sea of Sudan; + but whether this sea of Sudan will ultimately prove to be + situated[261] as I have described it, fifteen journies[262] east of + Timbuctoo, or 450 English miles, or as Ptolemy has described it, or + in the intermediate distance between the two extremes, must be left + for future travellers to ascertain. + + [Footnote 259: Another name for the Sea of Sudan, as will + hereafter appear.] + + [Footnote 260: See Ptolemy's Map of North Africa.] + + [Footnote 261: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, page + 310.] + + [Footnote 262: Fifteen journies horse travelling, which are the + journies here alluded to, at thirty miles a-day, is 450 British + miles.] + + The enterprising and indefatigable, the patient and persevering + genius of Burkhardt, deriving incalculable advantages from a long +449 residence in the eastern regions of Africa, may probably decree him + to be the person to clear up this long-contested geographical + point, unless the fascination of Arabian manners, or some Utopia in + the interior regions of that continent, should wean him from the + desire to re-visit his native country. + + This intelligence of Park may be considered some corroboration of + what I have maintained respecting the union of waters between the + Eastern and Western Niles.[263] + + The following testimonies are some confirmation of my report + respecting decked vessels, &c. in the interior of Africa.[264] + + Dr. Stetzen, a German physician residing at Alexandria[265], says, + that he has received intelligence from a pilgrim, on his way to + Mecca, a native of _Ber Noh,_ or _Bernou_[266], that the river + within a mile of the city is as large as the Egyptian Nile, and + overflows its banks; _it is navigated by vessels of considerable + dimensions, carrying sails and oars._ + + [Footnote 263: See Monthly Magazine, March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 264: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + page 309.] + + [Footnote 265: For full particulars, see New Supp. to Ency. + Brit. article "Africa."] + + [Footnote 266: This Bernou, or according to the Arabic + orthography, _Ber Noh_, is asserted by the Arabs to be the + birth-place of the Patriarch Noah.] + + Mr. Barnes states, that the Niger discharges itself into a large + lake; that he has heard from the Black traders that there are white +450 inhabitants upon the borders of this lake; and has been told, by + people who have seen them, that they dress in the style of Barbary + Moors, and wear turbans, but do not speak Arabic. See Report of + Committee of Council.[267] + + [Footnote 267: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p, 309.] + + Park, in his second journey, was informed, that "one month's travel + south of Baedo, through the kingdom of Grotto, will bring the + traveller to the country of the Christians, who have their houses + on the banks of the _Ba Seafeena_[268], which they describe as + incomparably larger than the lake Dehebby (Dibbie)."--This is + another corroboration of the accuracy of my account of the interior + of Africa; but before I dismiss this subject, I should observe, + that from the general ignorance of the African Arabic, an important + circumstance respecting this _Ba Seafeena_, is not yet (it appears) + discovered. It is this:--the words _Ba Seafeena_, or, according to + the correct Arabic orthography, _Bahar Sefeena_, literally + translated into English, signifies the Sea of Ships, and is + evidently only another name for the Sea of Sudan, declaring it to + be a sea wherein ships are found! + + [Footnote 268: See New Supp. to Ency. Brit. article "Africa."] + + Here then are two topographical facts first asserted by me, among + the moderns, to exist in the heart of Africa, and since confirmed + by Ali Bey, Park, and Dr. Sietzen, or, as the enlightened editor of + the Supplement to the New Encyclopedia Britt. observes, + +451 "We have thus three independent testimonies[269] from opposite + quarters, meeting exactly in the same point; nor does there, as far + as we know, exist any evidence _at all respectable_ to the + contrary." + + [Footnote 269: The testimonies here alluded to are Hornman, + Park, and Jackson.] + + It now remains for me to declare (that as opinions have been + industriously propagated tending to discredit my account of + Marocco, and the interior of Africa,) that nothing has been set + down therein, until I had previously investigated the + qualifications of the narrators, their means of knowledge, and + whether the respective vocations of the several narrators made it + their interest to disguise or misrepresent the truth of their + communications; and, after ascertaining these important points, I + have generally had recourse to other testimonies, and have seldom + recorded any thing until confirmed by three or four _concurrent_ + evidences: on this _pyramidical basis_ is founded the intelligence + in my account of Marocco, and of the interior of Africa, annexed to + that account. + + This assertion is to be understood in respect to intelligence that + I could not ascertain by ocular demonstration. + + Finally, my description of the black heartheaded serpent, called +452 Bouska[270], has been doubted; but a late traveller[271] has + confirmed the accuracy of my account; even of this extraordinary + animal.--In Riley's Narrative of his Shipwreck on the +453 Coast of Sahara is given an account of an exhibition by two + _Isawie_[272], who do not appear to have been adepts in the art of +454 fascinating these serpents; for I have frequently seen them manage +455 and charm the _Bouska_ much more adroitly than those who exhibited + at Rabat before Riley, although its bite is more deadly, and its + strength considerably greater, than that of the _El Effah!_ + + [Footnote 270: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 109.] + + [Footnote 271: "I paid two dollars for a station, and I looked + into the room without interruption. It was about twenty feet + long, and fifteen broad, paved with tiles and plastered within. + The windows had also been secured by an additional grating made + of wire, in such a manner as to render it impossible for the + serpents to escape from the room: it had but one door, and that + had a hole cut through it six or eight inches square: this hole + was also secured by a grating. In the room stood two men, who + appeared to be Arabs, with long bushy hair and beards; and I + was told they were a particular race of men, that could charm + serpents. + + "A wooden box, about four feet long and two wide, was placed + near the door, with a string fastened to a slide at one end of + it; this string went through a hole in the door. The two + serpent-eaters were dressed in haiks only, and those very small + ones. After they had gone through their religious ceremonies + most devoutly, they appeared to take an eternal farewell of + each other: this done, one of them retired from the room, and + shut the door tight after him. The Arab within seemed to be in + dreadful distress. I could observe his heart throb, and his + bosom heave most violently: and he cried out very loudly, + "_Allah houakiber_", three times; which is, as I understood it, + _God have mercy on me_.[273] + + "The Arab was at the farthest end of the room: at that instant + the cage was opened, and a serpent crept out slowly; he was: + about four feet long, and eight inches in circumference; his + colours were the most beautiful in nature, being bright, and + variegated with a deep yellow, a purple, a cream colour, black + and brown, spotted, &c. As soon as he saw the Arab in the room, + his eyes, which were small and green, kindled as with fire; he + erected himself in a second, his head two feet high; and + darting on the defenseless Arab, seized him between the folds + of his haik, just above his right hipbone, hissing most + horribly; the Arab gave a horrid shriek, when another serpent + came out of the cage. This last was black, very shining, and + appeared to be seven or eight feet long, but not more than two + inches in diameter: as soon as he had cleared the cage, he cast + his _red fiery eyes_ on his intended victim, thrust out his + forked tongue, _threw himself into a coil, erected his head, + which was in the centre of the coil_, three feet from the + floor, and flattening out the skin above his head and eyes, in + the form, and nearly of the size of a human heart, and + springing like lightning on the Arab, struck its fangs into his + neck near the jugular vein, while his tail and body flew round + his neck and arms in two or three folds. The Arab set up the + most hideous and piteous yelling, foamed and frothed at the + mouth, grasping the folds of the serpent, which were round his + arms with his right hand, and seemed to be in the greatest + agony, striving to tear the reptile from around his neck, while + with his left he seized hold of it near its head, but could not + break its hold: by this time the other had turned itself around + his legs, and kept biting all around the other parts of his + body, making apparently deep incisions: the blood, issuing from + every wound (both in his neck and body,) streamed all over his + haik and skin. My blood was chilled in my veins with horror at + this sight, and it was with difficulty my legs would support my + frame. + + "Notwithstanding the Arab's greatest exertions to tear away the + serpents with his hands, they turned themselves still tighter, + stopped his breath, and he fell to the floor, where he + continued for a moment, as if in the most inconceivable agony, + rolling over, and covering every part of his body with his own + blood and froth, until he ceased to move, and appeared to have + expired. In his last struggle, he had wounded the black serpent + with his teeth, as it was striving, as it were, to force its + head into his mouth, which wound Footnote: seemed to increase + its rage. At this instant I heard the shrill sound of a + whistle, and looking towards the door saw the other Arab + applying a call to his mouth: the serpents listened to the + music, their fury seemed to forsake them by degrees, they + disengaged themselves leisurely from the apparently lifeless + carcase, and creeping towards the cage, they soon entered it, + and were immediately fastened in. + + "The door of the apartment was now opened, and he without ran + to assist his companion: he had a phial of blackish liquor in + one hand, and an iron chissel in the other: finding the teeth + of his companion set, he thrust in the chissel, forced them + open, and then poured a little of the liquor into his mouth; + and holding the lips together, applied his mouth to the dead + man's nose, and filled his lungs with air: he next anointed his + numerous wounds with a little of the same liquid, and yet no + sign of life, appeared. I thought he was dead in earnest; his + neck and veins were exceedingly swollen; when his comrade + taking up the lifeless trunk in his arms, brought it out into + the open air, and continued the operation of blowing for + several minutes before a sign of life appeared; at length he + gasped, and after a time recovered so far as to be able to + speak. The swellings in his neck, body, and legs gradually + subsided, as they continued washing the wounds with clear cold + water and a sponge, and applying the black liquor occasionally; + a clean haik was wrapped about him, but his strength seemed so + far exhausted that he could not support himself standing, so + his comrade laid him on the ground by a wall, where he sunk + into a sleep. This exhibition lasted for about a quarter of an + hour from the time the serpents were let loose until they were + called off, and it was more than an hour from that time before + he could speak. I thought I could discover that the poisonous + fangs had been pulled out of these formidable serpents' jaws, + and mentioned that circumstance to the showman, who said, that + they had indeed been extracted; and when I wished to know how + swellings on his neck and other parts could be assumed, he + assured me, that though their deadly fangs were out, yet that + the poisonous quality of their breath and spittle would cause + the death of those they attack; that after a bite from either + of these serpents, no man could exist longer than fifteen + minutes: and that there was no remedy for any but those _who + were endowed by the Almighty with power to charm, and to manage + them_; and that he and his associates were of that favoured + number! The Moors and Arabs call the thick and beautiful + serpent _El Effah_, and the long black and heartheaded one _El + Bouskah_. + + "I afterwards saw engravings of these two serpents in + _Jackson's Marocco_; which are very correct resemblances. They + are said to be very numerous on and about the south foot of the + Atlas mountains and border of the Desert, where these were + caught when young, and where they often attack both men and + beasts."--Vide _Riley's Shipwreck and Captivity in the Great + Desert_, p. 550.] + + [Footnote 272: Disciples of Seedy ben Isa, whose sanctuary is + at Fas, and who possess the art of fascinating serpents.] + + [Footnote 273: N.B. This is a misinterpretation of the Arabic + words here used, which, literally translated, signify, _God + alone, is great!_--J.G.J.] + + _Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE, INSERTED MAY, 1818.) + + Sir, + + Bennet's-hill, Feb. 1818. + + I should be much surprised to find that Jackson's account of what + he has heard is doubted, if I did not remember that Bruce's account +456 of what he had seen was disbelieved. Nothing human can appear to me + more deserving of implicit credit than the intelligence the former + of these writers gives respecting Timbuctoo. He has not seen it, it + is true. I have not seen Lisbon; but, if I had, and were to sit + down to write an account of it, some things would be necessary to + be described, with regard to which I should feel a degree of + uncertainty; and, having given an account of Lisbon, if I were to + visit it again, I should find others on which I had been mistaken. + But let me arrange in my own mind the information I want respecting + Lisbon; let me make enquiries of twenty intelligent persons who + have resided there; let me carefully compare their different + accounts, and who shall doubt the accuracy of the result? + + Mr. Jackson has had an opportunity of acquiring information + respecting Timbuctoo that no other European ever had, by having the + direction of commerce in a city frequented by Timbuctan merchants; + a city, the port of which is called, in Arabic, _Bab Sudan_, the + Gate of Sudan. Mr. Jackson was qualified to make use of this + advantage to an extent that no other European ever was, by a + practical, and even critical knowledge of the general language of + the country,--the African Arabic. To these Mr. Jackson added an + ardent spirit of research, an industry which neglected no + opportunity, a caution to compare, a judgment to discriminate, and +457 a firmness to decide. Who, that weighs these things, can doubt the + accuracy of his intelligence respecting Sudan? I even regard his + orthography as the standard of correctness, and am surprised that + any person should continue to write Timbuctoo instead of Timbuctoo, + or Fez instead of Fas. + + I am inclined to believe that Adams has been at Timbuctoo, though I + do not consider it as proved; but, supposing that he has, and that + I wished to become acquainted with that city, would I apply for + information to an illiterate slave, who was confined within narrow + precincts? Or would I rely upon the united testimony of twenty + persons of education, who had each a wider field of observation? + + I have read "Jackson's Account of Marocco" twice through, at + different periods, with great attention; and I do most heartily + join in the confidence expressed by the enlightened and judicious + author, that, in proportion as the interior of Africa shall be more + known, the truth of his account of it will be made evident. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Hints for the Civilisation of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce_. + + March 16, 1818. + + Algiers, and the territory belonging to it, is governed by despotic + Turks, the refuse of the Ottoman troops; who maintain their power +458 over the Moors and Arabs of the plains (who are the cultivators of + the country), and over the Berebbers (who are the aborigines of the + country), or inhabitants of the mountains of Atlas, which terminate + this sovereignty on the south, and divide Algiers from + Bled-al-Jereed. The first principle of this barbarous and + sanguinary government, according io an African adage, is to + "_Maintain the arm of power, by making streams qf blood flow, + without intermission, around the throne!_" This country,--the + government of which reflects disgrace on Christendom, which has + been, during many ages the scourge of Christian mariners, and of + all who navigate the Mediterranean Sea,--has often been conquered. + The Romans reduced Numidia and Mauritania into Roman provinces. + This beautiful garden of the world was afterwards conquered by the + Vandals; then by the Greeks, during the reign of Justinian, under + Belisarius; and, finally, three times by the Arabs, viz. in the + 647th year of Christ, by Abdallah and Zobeer; in the year 667, by + Ak'bah for the Kalif Moawiah; and in the year 692, by Hassan, the + governor of Egypt, for the Kalif Abd Elmelik. Not one of the armies + of these warriors ever exceeded 50,000 men. + + After these general conquests, the partial conquests of the + Portuguese and Spaniards, about the end of the fifteenth and + beginning of the sixteenth century, were effected by a mere handful + of men; and, in 1509, the latter rendered the kingdom of Algiers + tributary to them: but, afterwards, they lost it by the ferocity of +459 their chiefs, and by the fanaticism of their soldiers and priests; + and, finally, by their perfidy and intolerance, they made + themselves enemies to the various (_Kabyles_) tribes of Mauritania, + and thereby lost their conquest. + + The repeated insults, offered by these ruffians to civilised + Europe, cannot be efficiently punished by a bombardment; a measure + which punishes many innocent subjects for the insults offered by + their government. No one acquainted with the character of the + natives of Barbary will maintain, that the destruction of a few + thousands of the peaceable inhabitants, or the burning of many + houses, is a national calamity in the eyes of a Muselman chief; who + would himself commit the same ravage and destruction that was so + gallantly effected by the British fleet, under Lord Exmouth, for + half the money it cost to accomplish it. + + When Lord St. Vincent was off Cadiz with the British fleet, and + could not obtain the object which he sought of the Emperor of + Marocco; his Lordship, after refusing to comply with the Emperor's + request, communicated to his Lordship by the Emperor's envoy, or + agent, Rais Ben Embark, told the Rais to inform his Emperor, that, + if he did not change his conduct very soon, he would begin a war + with him, and such a war as he had neither seen nor read of before. + When the Rais reported this to the Emperor Soliman, he enquired + what kind of war an admiral could wage against him; some one of the +460 divan observed, that he would destroy the ports on the coast; + adding, that it would cost a certain large sum of money to effect + that destruction. Upon which the Emperor exclaimed, that, for half + that amount, he would himself destroy all these ports.--This affair + happened in September, 1798. + + There is a prophecy in Barbary, that, from time immemorial, has + been generally credited by the inhabitants. It has been transmitted + to them by some fakeer, that the land of the Muselmen will be + wrested from them by the Christians; and there is an impression, + that the period when this event will take place is not far distant. + They also believe that this event will happen on a Friday (the + Muselman Sabbath), whilst they are occupied at their devotions at + the _Dohor_, service of prayer. Accordingly, at this period,--viz. + from twelve till half-past one o'clock,--the gates of all the + town's on the coast are shut and bolted every Friday. This attack, + forsooth, is to happen whilst they are occupied at prayer, because + they are so infatuated with an opinion of their own valour, that + they will not believe that Christians would presume to attack them + openly, when armed and prepared for the combat. It should seem that + these people begin now seriously to anticipate the near approach of + this predestined conquest, and have accordingly entered into a kind + of holy alliance, offensive and defensive: to which, it is said, + the Emperor of Marocco, and the Deys of Tunis and Tripoli, have + acceded; and that this holy alliance is crowned by the Ottoman + Emperor. +461 + It is more than probable, that the Dey of Algiers, goaded by the + blow inflicted by Lord Exmouth,--which has increased his hatred to + Christians, and has inflamed his desire of revenge,--will not fail + to seek every opportunity (according to the known principles of + Muhamedanism), of retaliating and insulting the Europeans, whenever + a favourable opportunity may offer, even at the risk of another + bombardment. This opinion has been confirmed by his late conduct; + and by the activity that has been manifested in the fortifications, + in increasing their military force, in building and equipping new + vessels, to infest the Mediterranean with their abominable + piracies; all which proceedings demonstrate the hostile intentions + of the Dey beyond all doubt. + + * * * * * + + _Plan for the Conquest of Algiers._ + + The inhabitants of the plains are bigoted to the Muhamedan tenets; + but they would readily exchange the iron rod that rules them for a + more mild and beneficial form of government. A well-disciplined + European army of 50,000 men, would assuredly effect their complete + conquest without much difficulty: such an army, directed by a + Wellington, would perform wonders, and astound the Africans. After + the conquest, an energetic, decisive, but beneficent form of + government, would be necessary, to retain the country, and to +462 conquer and annihilate the repugnancy which these people entertain + to our religious tenets. A system of rule formed on the principles + of the English constitution,--directed by good policy, benevolence, + and religious toleration,--would not fail to reconcile these + hostile tribes, and attach them to rational government. The + Berebbers would readily assimilate to such a government; and, + although by nature a treacherous race, they would rejoice to see + the country in possession of a government which, they would + perceive, strove to promote the welfare and prosperity of the + mountaineers, as well as the inhabitants of the plains; and their + own interest would thus gradually subdue the antipathy resulting + from religious prejudices. + + A general knowledge of the African Arabic would be essentially + necessary; and I think a school might be established in England, on + the Madras system, for initiating youths (going out to Africa) in + the rudiments of that language. This would be attended with most + important advantages; and might be accomplished in a very short + time. The conquest of Algiers being thus effected, that of the + neighbouring states would follow, without difficulty, by a + disciplined army of European troops; keeping the principle ever in + view, of conciliating the natives, without swerving from an + energetic and decisive mode of government. + + The advantages that would necessarily result from a successful + attack upon Africa, would be-- +463 + 1. An incalculable demand for spices, and East India manufactures + of silk and cotton. + + 2. A similar demand for coffees, and for sugars, manufactured and + unmanufactured; as well as for other articles of West India + produce. + + 3. An incalculable demand for all our various articles of + manufacture. + + On the other hand, we should obtain from this fine country,-- + + 1. An immense supply of the finest wheat, and other grain, that the + world produces. + + 2. We should be able to open a direct communication with the + interior regions of Africa,--which have baffled the enterprise of + ancient and modern Europe: the fertile and populous districts which + lie contiguous to the Nile of Sudan, throughout the whole of the + interior of Africa, would become, in a few years, as closely + connected to us, by a mutual exchange of benefits, as our own + colonies; and such a stimulus would be imparted to British + enterprise and industry, as would secure to us such stores of gold + as would equal the riches of Solomon, and immortalize the prince + who should cherish this great commerce to its maturity. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +464 + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + Liverpool, + Dec. 17. 1818. + Sir, + + In "_The Portfolio_," a Monthly Miscellany for May, 1817, published + at Philadelphia, there is rather an interesting review of Ali Bey's + travels. The writer says, "Ali Bey has rectified various errors in + the common maps of Marocco. The river Luccos, for instance, flows + to the South, and not to the North of Alcasser; and the city of + Fas, according to Ali Bey, is situated in 34 6' north latitude, + and not as laid down in the Maps of Arrowsmith, Rennell, Delille, + Golberri, &c."--If, however, he had given himself the trouble to + consult the map of West Barbary, in Jackson's Account of Marocco, + &c. &c. (which is by far the most accurate extant, and whose + geographical orthography has been adopted in all the best modern + English maps,) he would have seen that Fas is in 34 north + latitude; that the river Elkos, or Luccos, is described in that + map, (which was published several years before Ali Bey's travels,) + as running south of Alcasser. + + In describing the funeral cry at Marocco, the editor, or reviewer, + impresses his reader with an idea that this funeral cry is that of + the Moors, whereas it is no such thing: it is the practice of the + Jews only in West Barbary to cry "Ah! Ah!" and lacerate their faces +465 with their finger nails; after which they wash, drink brandy, and + enjoy themselves. + + The large sea in the interior of Africa, described by Ali Bey to be + without any communication with the Ocean, had been described + (_years before Ali Bey's travels were published_) by Jackson, in + his Account of Marocco, &c. &c. third edition, p. 309, and called + first by him _Bahar Sudan_, and represented as a sea having decked + vessels on it. Mr. Park, in his Second Journey, calls this sea the + Bahar Seafina, without, however, informing the public, or knowing, + that the Bahar Sefeena is an Arabic expression implying a sea of + ships, or a sea where ships are found; and the situation he places + it in coincides exactly with Jackson's prior description. There are + thus three concurrent testimonies of the situation of the Bahar + Sudan, or Sea of Sudan, _first noticed by Jackson_, and since + confirmed by Ali Bey and Park.[274] + + EL HAGE HAMED EL WANGARY. + + [Footnote 274: There is an able discussion of this subject in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, article + "Africa," p. 104, and 105.] + + _On the Negroes_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + Eton, 5th Dec. 1818. + + Many maintain that the Negroes are a docile and tractable race, and + more easily to be governed than Europeans; others maintain, that +466 they are liars, thieves, vindictive, and a demoralised race. That + they are vindictive, no one who is acquainted with their character + will deny; but are not most barbarous and uncivilised nations the + same? What are the Muhamedans and Pagans? The latter, who form + nearly two-thirds of the population of the earth, are generally of + the same character, and the vindictive character of the former is + notorious. + + Propagate among the Negroes the benign principles of the Christian + doctrine, and they will gradually (as those principles are + inculcated) become good subjects, and useful members of society. It + is that religion which will bring forth their latent and social + virtues--a religion, the moral principles of which are the + admiration even of its enemies, the Muhamedans themselves: a + religion which exalts the human character above the brutes, and + brings forth its beauties as the brilliancy of the diamond is + brought forth by the hand of the polisher. + + Destroy their witchcraft and idolatry, and on their ruins inculcate + the divine doctrines of Christ, and we shall soon see that they + will possess sentiments that exalt the human character, and that + nothing has contributed more to their mental degradation than the + cruel treatment of their masters in the European colonies of the + West. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +467 + + _Cursory Observations on Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal + of a Route across India, through Egypt, to England_. + + Eton, 7th May, 1819. + + It is remarkable, that in proportion as our mass of information + respecting the interior of Africa increases, the truth of Mr. James + Grey Jackson's account of that country, in the appendix to his + account of Marocco, &c. receives additional confirmation. Some + literary sceptics have been so far prejudiced against this author's + report as to doubt its veracity altogether; but let us see how far + the interesting report of Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence, in his + journal of a route across India, through Egypt, to England, lately + published, corroborates Mr. Jackson's description of Timbuctoo, + published so long since as 1809. + + It is to be lamented, that Jackson's African orthography is not + altogether adopted: with the superior and practical knowledge which + he evidently possesses of the African Arabic language, it cannot, I + presume, be doubted by the learned and impartial, that his + orthography is correct; and, judging from what has already + transpired, I do not hesitate to predict, that his African + orthography, from an evidence of its accuracy, will, in a few + years, be adopted throughout; although the learned world have been + ten years in correcting _Tombuctoo_ into _Timbuctoo_; the latter +468 being Mr. Jackson's orthography in his account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. published in 1809. + + The late account of Mr. Bowdich's mission to Ashantee has been the + first to corroborate this author in this respect; and + Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence has confirmed it with this additional + observation, in his Journal of a Route, &c. page 493: "Upon + enquiring about _Timbuctoo_ the Hage laughed at our pronunciation, + the name of the city being _Timbuctoo_." The next improvement in + African geographical orthography, will probably be the conversion + of Fez into _Fas_ (for there is absolutely no more reason for + calling it Fez than there has been for calling Timbuctoo, + Timbuctoo), this word being spelled in Arabic with the letters _Fa, + Alif_, and _Sin_, which cannot be converted into any other + orthography but _Fas_; the same argument would hold with various + other words spelled correctly by this author, an accurate + elucidation of which might encroach too much upon your valuable + pages. I shall therefore briefly state, that in page 480 of Colonel + Fitzclarence's Journal, the name of the Moorish gentleman to whose + care the sons of the Emperor of Marocco, Muley Soliman, were + confided, is stated to be El Hadge Talib ben Jelow: this is + incorrect orthography, there is no such name in the Arabic language + as _Jelow_, it is a barbarism; ben Jelow signifies ben Jelule, and + the proper name is _El Hage Taleb ben Jelule_. + +469 Behur Soldan is evidently another barbarism or corruption of the + Arabic words _Bahar Sudan: vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 309, published by Cadell and Davies. + + It has been observed by an intelligent French writer, that "_Le + pluspart des hommes mesurant leur foi par leur connoissance acquise + croyent fort peu de choses_." In confirmation of this opinion, + many intelligent men, at the time of the publication of Jackson's + Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c. doubted the existence of the + _Heirie_, as described by him; but in proportion as our knowledge + of Africa improves, we see that the truth of these wonders is + confirmed: and Colonel Fitzclarence mentions one that travelled + four days in one; but we should not be surprised to hear, before + this century shall terminate, that an Englishman had travelled from + Fas to Timbuctoo on a Heirie, accompanied by an accredited agent of + the Emperor of Marocco, in ten or fifteen days! + + It appears by this ingenious traveller's Journal of a Route, &c. + page 493, that all religions are tolerated at Timbuctoo. This is a + confirmation of what is reported by Jackson, in the Appendix + annexed to his Account of Marocco, &c. page 300. + + The fish in the river of Timbuctoo, the Neel El Abeed or Neel of + Sudan, is described by Colonel Fitzclarence as resembling salmon: +470 this is a corroboration of Jackson, who says, the _shebbel_ abound + in the Neel of Sudan, and the shebbel is the African salmon. See + appendix to Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. page 306. + + In page 494, Colonel Fitzclarence says, the Nile at Kabra is a + quarter of a mile wide; Jackson says it is as wide as the Thames at + London. See Appendix to Jackson's Marocco, &c. page 305. + + In page 496 of the Colonel's narrative, an account is given of the + rate of travelling through the Desert; which, allowing for an + arbitrary difference, in the resting days, corroborates Jackson's + Account, page 286. + + In page 497, El hage Taleb ben Jelule's report to the Colonel, of + an account of two white men, (undoubtedly Mungo Park and another,) + who were at Timbuctoo in 1806, is a remarkable confirmation of the + account brought by Mr. Jackson from Mogodor in January, 1807, and + reported by him to the Marquis of Hastings, to Sir Joseph Banks, + and to Sir Charles Morgan, which is inserted in the Morning Post + and other papers, about the middle of August, 1814. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. +471 + + _On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Turkey in Europe, in + Asia, and in Africa_. + + London, May 10, 1819. + + In this enlightened age, when our intercourse is increasing with + nations remote from our own, and possessing different religions, + languages, laws, and customs; when the ambassadors of the Muhamedan + potentates of Europe, Asia, and Africa, are resident in our + metropolis, all understanding _the Arabic language_; when, with a + knowledge of this language, a person may travel and hold colloquial + intercourse with the inhabitants of Turkey, with the greater part + of Asia, and with Africa; and, lastly, when we consider the + valuable and immense stores of Arabian literature, of the best + periods which still remain unexplored, is it not remarkable under + all the exciting circumstances above enumerated, that in this + powerful and opulent country, there should not be found, with all + our boasted learning and eagerness of research, three or four + Englishmen capable of writing and conversing intelligibly in that + beautiful and useful language? The extent of this disgraceful + ignorance would be scarcely credible, were there not proofs beyond + doubt, that our principal seats of learning are as deficient in +472 this knowledge as the public in general[275], and that letters or + public documents written in that language, have been in vain sent + to them for translation. What I have long considered as chiefly + tending to diminish the desire of acquiring this language, is an + opinion dogmatically asserted, and diligently propagated, that the + Arabic of the East and West are so different from each other, as + almost to form distinct languages, and to be unintelligible to the + inhabitants of either of those regions respectively; but, having + always doubted the truth of this assertion, I have endeavoured, + from time to time, _during the last ten years_, to ascertain + whether the Arabic language spoken in Asia be the same with that + which is spoken in Africa, (westward to the shores of the Atlantic + ocean,) but without success, and even without the smallest +473 satisfactory elucidation, until the arrival in London last winter, + of the most _Reverend Doctor Giarve, Bishop of Jerusalem_, who has + given such incontestible proofs of his proficiency in the Arabic + language, that his opinion on this important point cannot but be + decisive; accordingly, on presenting to the reverend Doctor some + letters from the Emperor of Marocco to me, desiring that he would + oblige me with his opinion, whether the Arabic in those letters was + the same with that spoken in Syria, the Rev. Doctor replied in the + following perspicuous manner, which, I think, decides the question: + _"I can assure you, that the language and the idiom of the Arabic + in these letters from the Emperor of Marocco to you, is precisely + the same with that which is spoken in the East."_ + + [Footnote 275: See page 408. respecting a letter sent to our + late revered Sovereign, by the Emperor of Marocco. In + consequence of the inattention to that letter, the Emperor + determined never to write again to a Christian king in the + Arabic language; and, with regard to Great Britain, I believe + he has faithfully ever since kept his word! Some time before + this letter was written, I being then in Marocco, the Emperor's + minister asked me if the Emperor his master were to write an + Arabic letter to the _Sultan George Sultan El Ingleez_, (these + were his expressions,) whether there were persons capable of + translating it into English: I replied, that there were men at + the Universities capable of translating every learned language + in the known world; and accordingly the letter above alluded to + was written in Arabic, and addressed to His Majesty. This + letter was written by the Emperor himself, which I am competent + to declare, having letters from him in my possession, and being + acquainted with his hand-writing and style.] + + It is, therefore, thus ascertained, that the Arabic language spoken + in the kingdom of Tafilelt, of Fas, of Marocco, and in Suse or + South Barbary, is precisely the same language with that which is + now spoken in Syria, and Palestine in Asia; countries distant from + each other nearly 3000 miles, and from information since obtained, + there appears to be no doubt that the Arabic language spoken by the + Arabs in Arabia, by the Moors and Arabs in India and Madagascar, by + the Moorish nations on the African shores of the Mediterranean, are + one and the same language with that spoken in Marocco, subject only + to certain provincial peculiarities, which by no means form +474 impediments to the general understanding of the language, no more, + or not so much so, as the provincial peculiarities of one county of + England differ from another!! + + Unwilling to encroach too much on your valuable pages, I will + leave, for the subject of my next letter, the inconceivable + misconstructions and errors into which the ignorance of this + language has led European travellers in Africa, of which I shall + state some examples in a recent publication respecting Africa. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient Servant, + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + + _Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an + Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. + showing the Errors that have been committed by European Travellers + on that Continent, from their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the + learned and the general travelling Language of that interesting + part of the World_. + + June 17, 1819. + + The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibber, was invariably described + as dividing in two large streams.--_Vide_ "Bowdich's Account of a + Mission to Ashantee," p. 187. + + The Lake Dibber is called in the proceedings of the African + Association Dibbie, but the proper appellation is _El Bahar Tibber, + _or_ El Bahar Dehebbie_. The Bahar Tibber signifies the sea of gold +475 dust; the _Bahar Dehebbie_ signifies the sea or water abounding in + gold. Jinnee, which is on or near the shore of this lake, (I call + it a lake because it is fresh water,) abounds in gold, and is + renowned throughout Africa for the ingenuity of its artificers in + that metal, insomuch that they acknowledge the superiority of + Europeans in all arts except that of gold work. There are some + specimens of Jinnee gold trinkets, very correctly delineated in the + recent interesting work of "Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's + Journal of a Route across India, through Egypt to England," p. 496. + + Page 187, "Yahoodie, a place of great trade." + + This place is reported to be inhabited by one of the lost tribes of + Israel, possibly an emigration from the tribe of Judah. Yahooda, in + African Arabic, signifies Judah. Yahoodee signifies Jew. It is not + impossible, that many of the lost tribes of Israel may be found + dispersed in the interior regions of Africa, when we shall become + better acquainted with that Continent; it is certain, that some of + the nations that possessed the country eastward of Palestine when + the Israelites were a favoured nation, have emigrated to Africa. + + An emigration of the Amorites[276] are now in possession of the + declivity of the Atlas Mountains, westward of the sanctuary[277] of + Muley Driss, and in the neighbourhood of the ruins of Pharaoh; they +476 live in encampments, consisting of two, three, or four tents each: + they resemble the Arabs of the Desert in their predatory + excursions. I speak from practical knowledge, having twice + travelled through their country, and visited their encampments. + + [Footnote 276: They are called _Ite-amor_, Amorite.] + + [Footnote 277: _Vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, chap. viii. + enlarged edition.] + + Page 189. "Mr. Beaufoy's Moor says, that below Ghinea is the sea + into which the river of Timbuctoo discharges itself." + + This might have been understood to signify the Sea of Sudan, if the + Moor had not said below Ghinea, (by which is meant Genowa, or as we + call it Guinea,) which implies, that the _Neel El Abeed_ (Niger) + discharges itself in the sea that washes the coast of Guinea; this, + therefore, corroborates Seedi Hamed's, or rather Richard's + hypothesis. + + Page 190. "This branch of the Niger passing Timbuctoo, is not + crossed until the third day going from Timbuctoo to Houssa." + + This quotation from "Dapper's Description of Africa," is + corroborated by L'Hage Abdsalam, Shabeeni, whose narrative says, + "Shabeeni, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Houssa, and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached + the Neel in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, and + cultivated country." + + The confusion of rivers, made mere equivocal by every new + hypothesis, receives here additional ambiguity. If there were (as + Mr. Bowdich affirms) three distinct rivers near Timbuctoo; viz. the +477 Joliba, the Gambarro, and the Niger, (_i. e_. the _Neel El Abeed_) + how comes it that they have not been noticed by Leo Africanus, who + resided at Timbuctoo; by Edrissi, who is the most correct of the + Arabian geographers; or whence is it, that these rivers have not + been noticed by the many Moorish travelling merchants who have + resided at Timbuctoo, and whom I have repeatedly questioned + respecting this matter[278], or whence is it that Alkaid L'Hassen + Ramy, a renowned chief of the Emperor of Marocco's army, with whom + I was well acquainted, and who was a native of Houssa, knew of no + such variously inclined streams. This being premised, I am + certainly not disposed to relinquish the opinion I brought with me + from Africa in the year 1807, viz. that the _Neel El Abeed_ is the + only mighty river that runs through Africa from west to east; but I + admit that its adjuncts, as well as itself, have different names; + thus, in the manuscript of Mr. Park's death, a copy of which is + inserted in "Mr. Bowdich's Account of Ashantee," it is called Kude; + many hundred miles eastward it is called Kulla, from the country +478 through which it passes; but Kude and Kulla are different names, + and ought not to be confounded one with the other; neither ought + Quolla (_i. e._, the Negro pronunciation of Kulla) to be confounded + with Kude, the former being the Negro term for the same river, in + the same manner as Niger is the Roman name for the _Neel Elabeed_, + which is the Arabic name for the same river. There is a stream + which proceeds from the Sahara, the water of which is _brackish_; + this stream hardly can be called a river, except in the rainy + season. It passes in a south-westerly direction near Timbuctoo, but + does not join the _Neel Elabeed_. I could mention several + intelligent and credible authorities, the report of respectable + merchants, who have resided, and, who have had establishments at + Timbuctoo, in confirmation of this fact; but as the authorities + which I should adduce would be unknown, even by name, to men of + science in Europe, I would refer the reader to the interesting + narrative of an intelligent Moorish merchant, who resided three + years at Timbuctoo, and who was known to the committee of the + African Association; this travelling merchant's name is L'Hage + Abdsalam Shabeeny, and his narrative, a manuscript of which (with + critical and explanatory notes by myself) I have in my possession, + has the following observation:[279]--"Close to the town of + Timbuctoo, on the south, is a small rivulet in which the +479 inhabitants wash their clothes, and which is about two feet deep; + it runs into the great forest on the east, and does not communicate + with the Nile, but is lost in the sands west of the town: its water + is brackish; that of the Nile is good and pleasant." + + [Footnote 278: The Arabs who conduct the _cafelahs_ or caravans + across the Sahara, are often seen at Agadeer or Santa Cruz, and + sometimes even at Mogodor; and if there was a river penetrating + to the north through the Sahara, would it not have been noticed + by them? Is it possible that such a prominent feature of + African geography, as a river of sweet water passing through a + desert, could fail of being noticed by these people, who are, + in their passage through the Desert, continually in search of + water?] + + [Footnote 279: See page 8.] + + Page 199. Mr. Murray recently observes, "Joliba seems readily + convertible into Joli-ba, the latter syllable being merely an + adjunct, signifying river; this I was also given to understand." + + This is an etymological error. The Joliba is not a compound word, + if it were it would be Bahar Joli, not Bajoli, or Joliba; thus do + learned men, through a rage for criticism, and for want of a due + knowledge of African languages, render confused, by fancied + etymologies, that which is sufficiently clear and perspicuous. + + Page 191. "The river of Darkulla mentioned by Mr. Brown." + + This is evidently an error: there is probably no such place or + country as Darkulla. There is, however, an alluvial country + denominated _Bahar Kulla_, (for which see the map of Africa in the + Supplement of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, p. 88. lat. N. 8, + long. E. 20). I apprehend this Darkulla, when the nations of + Europe shall be better acquainted with Africa and its languages, + will be discovered to be a corruption of _Bahar Kulla_, or an + unintelligible and ungrammatical term: _Daar Kulla_ is + grammatical, and implies a country covered with houses! _Dar Kulla_ +480 is an ungrammatical and an incorrect term, which being literally + translated into English, signifies _many house_. This being + premised, we may reasonably suppose, that _Bahar Kulla_ is the + proper term which, as I have always understood, forms the junction + of the Nile of the west with the Nile of the east, and hence + forming a continuity[280] of waters from Timbuctoo to Cairo. + + [Footnote 280: See my letter in the Monthly Magazine for March, + 1817, page 128.] + + 191. In this geographical dissertation the word Niger is still + used, which is a name altogether unknown in Africa, and calculated + to contuse the geographical enquirer. As this word is + unintelligible to the natives of Africa, whether they be Arabs, + Moors, Berebbers, Shelluhs, or Negroes, ought it not to be expunged + from the maps? + + P. 192. In the note in this page, "Jackson's Report of the source + of the _Neel el Abeed_, and the Source of the Senegal," is + confirmed by the Jinnee Moor.--See Jackson's Appendix to his + Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, p. 311. + + "It is said, that thirty days from Timbuctoo they eat their + prisoners!" Does not this allude to Banbugr[281], and has not this +491 word been corrupted by Europeans into Bambarra. See Mr. Bowdich's + MS. No. 3, p. 486; Banbugr, who eat the flesh of men. Jackson's + translation. + + [Footnote 281: The Gr in Banbugr, is the Arabic letter, grain. + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, renders this letter gh; + which demonstrates, that his knowledge of the Arabic was only + scholastic, not practical. It has no resemblance or affinity to + gh, and would be unintelligible if so pronounced to an Arab.] + + Page 193. The government of Jinnee appears to be Moorish; because + _Malai Smaera_, which should be written _Mulai Smaera_, signifies + in the Arabic language, the _Prince Smaera_: the term does not + belong to Negroes, but exclusively to Muhamedans. _Malai Bacharoo_ + is a Negro corruption of the word; it should be _Mulai_, or _Muley + Bukaree_; i.e. the _Abeed Mulai Bukaree_, or _Abeed Seedi Bukaree_. + They are well known among the Negroes of Sudan; the Negroes of this + race form the present body-guard of the Emperor of Maroceo's + troops, consisting of 5000 horse. They are dexterous in the + management of the horse, are well-disciplined troops, and are the + only military in the Emperor's army that can cope with the + Berebbers of the Atlas. + + Note, p. 194. Dapper's description of Africa is here quoted in + confirmation of the decay of Timbuctoo; and Jackson is accused of + extravagance. The latter I shall pass over, it being an assertion + unsupported by any substantial testimony; but immediately + afterwards is the following passage. + + "The three last kings before Billa (_i.e. Billabahada_) were + Osamana, (_i.e._ Osaman; Osamana being the feminine gender,) + Dawoloo, and Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woolo + reigning in 1800; and a Moor who had come from Timbuctoo to + Comassee ten years ago (viz. about 1807, or ten years before Mr. +482 Bowdich visited Ashantee), did not know King Woolo was dead, as he + was reigning at the time he left Timbuctoo." + + With regard to Dapper's assertion, it should be remembered, that if + Timbuctoo was decaying in his time, that is about the period that + Muley Ismael ascended the throne of Marocco, viz. in 1672; it + revived very soon after, that is before the close of the 17th + century. This powerful and warlike prince had the address to + establish and to maintain a very strong garrison at Timbuctoo; and + accordingly, during his long reign of fifty-five years, viz. from + 1672 to 1727, Timbuctoo carried on a constant, extensive, and + lucrative trade with Marocco, Tafilelt, and Fas, in gold dust, + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, ivory, and slaves, &c. + _Akkabahs_[282], and _cafilahs_, or caravans, were going + continually from Timbuctoo to Tafilelt, Marocco, Fas, and Terodant. + Travelling across the Desert was then as safe as it is now in the + plains of Marocco, or on the roads in England; the only months + during which the caravans did not travel were July and August, + because the _Shme_, or hot wind of the Desert, prevails during + these two months. It is reported, that Muley Ismael was so rich in + gold, that the bolts of the gates of his palaces, and his kitchen + utensils, were of pure gold. Timbuctoo continued to carry on a most +483 lucrative trade with Marocco, &c.; during the Feign of the Emperor + Muley Abd Allah, son and successor of Ismael, and also during the + reign of Seedy[283] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, who died about the year + 1795, a sovereign universally regretted, and hence aptly + denominated the father of his people: since the decease of + Seedy[284] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, the father of the reigning + emperor, Muley Soliman, the trade of Sudan has rapidly decreased, + because the policy of the present emperor is, to discourage + commerce, but to encourage the agriculture and the manufactures of + his own country, so as to make them sufficient for itself, and + independent of foreign supplies! + + [Footnote 282: An Akkabah is an accumulation of many _cafilahs_ + or caravans.] + + [Footnote 283: It should be observed, that an emperor having + the name of the Arabian prophet, is called Seedy; but having + any other name, he is called Muley; the former signifies + master, the latter, prince.] + + [Footnote 284: If therefore the trade with Timbuctoo declined + in Leo's time, _i.e._ A.D. 1570, it unquestionably revived in + Ismael's reign, and also continued with but little diminution + during the reign of his son Abd Allah, and his grandson + Muhamed.] + + Da Woolo is a reverential term, and is synonymous with Woolo, + signifying King Woolo. + +484 Park says, Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805, + implying that he reigned from 1796 to 1805. The Moor before + mentioned, who came from Timbuctoo to Comassie in 1807, told Mr. + Bowdich, that Woolo was then reigning at Timbuctoo. Isaaco says, + Woolo was predecessor to Mansong; consequently, according to this + Jew, Woolo was king before the year 1796; therefore, if Mr. Park's + testimony be correct, Woolo must have been predecessor and + successor to Mansong; otherwise, Mr. Park was incorrect in saying + that Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805. Adams + says, Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in 1810, and was old and + grey-headed. Riley's narrative also confirms his age and grey + hairs. With regard to my testimony, viz. that Woolo was king[285] + of Timbuctoo in 1800, I had it from two merchants of veracity, who + returned from Timbuctoo in 1800, after residing there 14 years: + they are both alive now, and reside at Fas; their names I would + mention, were I not apprehensive that it might lead to a reprimand + from the emperor, and create jealousy for having communicated + intelligence respecting the interior of the country. I should not + have entered into this detail _in confirmation of my assertion that + Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in_ 1800, if the editor of the + Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica (article Africa), had not + asserted, that I have committed an anachronism in asserting, that + he was king in that year; thereby insinuating that Park was right, + and that I was wrong. + + [Footnote 285: See my Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the + Anti-Jacobin Review for January, 1818, p. 453.] + +485 Page 195. The Editor of Adams's Narrative is, I apprehend, + incorrect in asserting, that the name Fatima affords no proof that + the queen, or the wife of Woolo, was a Muhamedan. Fatima is + incontestably an Arabian proper name; and it would be considered + presumption in a Negress unconverted to Muselmism, to assume the + name of Fatima. She must, therefore, have been necessarily a + Mooress, or a converted Negress; the name has nothing to do with a + numeral, as Mr. Bowdich suggests, and above all not with the + _numeral five_, for that is a number ominous of evil in Africa, and + as such, would never have been bestowed as a name on a beloved + wife. + + Page 196. Note of W. Hutchison, "The four greatest monarchs known + on the banks of the Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisimiel, + and Malla, or Mallowa." + + Baharnoo should be written _Ber Noh_; i.e. the country of Noah the + patriarch; it is called in the maps Bernoo, and the whole passage + is calculated greatly to confuse African geography. The information + is unquestionably derived from Negro authority, and that not of the + most authentic kind. Santambool is the Negro corruption of + _Strambool_, which is the Arabic name for Constantinople: + _Malisimiel_ is the Negro corruption of Muley Ismael.[286] The + first signifies the empire of Constantinople; the second signifies + the empire of Muley Ismael, who was emperor of Marocco in the early + part of the 18th century, and whose authority was acknowledged at +486 Timbuctoo, where he maintained a strong garrison, and held the + adjacent country in subjection, where his name is held in reverence + to this day. This being premised, it follows of course, that one of + these four great monarchies here alluded to, viz. that of + Santambool is certainly not on the Quolla, unless the Quolla be + considered the same river with the Egyptian Nile, and that Egypt be + considered a part of the empire of Santambool; then, and then only, + can it be said, that the empire of Santambool is situated on the + Quolla. + + [Footnote 286: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii. p. 295, and + note, p. 296.] + + Page 198. Two large lakes were described close to the northward of + Houssa; one called Balahar Sudan, and the other Girrigi Maragasee; + the first of these names is a Negro corruption, or an European + corruption of the term _Bahar Sudan_[287]; the other is a Negro + name of another, if not of the same lake or sea. The situation of + the _Bahar Sudan_ is described by me in the 13th chapter, in my + account of Marocco, to be fifteen journeys east of Timbuctoo, and + the _Neel El Abeed_ passes through it. I had this information from + no less than seven Moorish merchants of intelligence and veracity; + the same is confirmed by Ali Bey[288], the Shereef Imhammed, Park, + and Dr. Seitzen; all these authorities must therefore fall to the +487 ground if Mr. Bowdich's report is to overturn these testimonies, + which has placed it three degrees of latitude north of the _Neel El + Abeed_, or [289]_Neel Assudan_, and in the Sahara[290], + _unconnected with any river_! I doubt if any, but a very ignorant + Pagan Negro (for the Muhamedan Negroes are more intelligent), would + have given the Sea of Sudan this novel situation. + + [Footnote 287: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii.] + + [Footnote 288: For an elucidation of these opinions, see my + Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the European Magazine, + Feb. 1818, page 113.] + + [Footnote 289: Neel Sudan and Neel Assudan are synonymous, the + _as_ being the article.] + + [Footnote 290: See Mr. Bowdich's Map, in his Account of a + Mission to Ashantee.] + + Page 200. The Quolla appears to be the Negro pronunciation of the + Arabic name _Kulla_; i.e. the _Bahar Kulla_, to which the _Neel + Assudan_ is said to flow. _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic word + signifying the sea altogether, or an alluvial country. The _Neel + Assudan_ here joins the waters of a river that proceed westward + from the Abysinian Nile, and hence is formed the water + communication between Cairo[291] and Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 291: See Jackson's Account of Marocco, enlarged + edition, p. 313. See also his Letter to the Editor of the + Monthly Magazine for March, 1817. p. 125.] + + Page 201. Quolla Raba, or Kulla Raba, signifies the Kulla forest, + as the Negroes express it; the Arabs call it _Raba Kulla_, i.e. the + forest of _Kulla_, If any further proof of the accuracy of this + interpretation be necessary, it maybe added, that the position + agrees exactly with Major Rennell's kingdom of _Kulla_, for which + see the Major's map in proceedings of the African Association, vol. + i. page 209, lat. N. 9, long. W. 10. +488 + Page 203. The lake Fittri is a lake, the waters of which are said + to be filtered through the earth, as the name implies. The Nile is + here said to run under ground. The Arabs and Moors have a + tradition, that the waters of Noah's flood rested here, and were + absorbed and filtered through the earth, leaving only this large + lake. I never understood this sea to be identified with the Bahar + Heimed[292]; i.e. the Hot or Warm Sea. The Hot Sea and the Filtered + Sea are distinct waters; the former lies about mid-way, in a right + line between Lake Fittri and Lake Dwi. (See Laurie and Whittle's + Map of Africa, published in 1813.) This is another inaccuracy of + Mr. Hutchison; who appears, indeed, to have collected information + from natives, without considering what title they had to + credibility. Another error is added to the note in page 203 and + 204, viz. what he calls sweet beans are unquestionably dates, which + have not the least affinity in taste, shape, growth, or quality, to + beans. The Arabic name correctly converted into European letters, + is _timmer_, not _tummer_. The Arabic words designating sweet + beans, is _Elfool El Hellue_. The passage signed William Hutchison + here alluded to, is this: "The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and + _sweet beans called tummer_." + + [Footnote 292: _Heimed_ is an Arabic term, signifying that + degree of heat which milk has when coming from the cow or + goat.] + + Note, page 204. I do not know whence the Quarterly Review has +489 derived its information respecting the derivation of the word Misr + (a corruption of Massar); the word Massar is compounded of the two + Arabic words Ma and Sar; i.e. Mother of Walls. Possibly some Arabic + professor versed in bibliographic lore, to favor a darling + hypothesis, has transmuted Massar into Misr, to strengthen the + plausibility of the etymology of Misr from Misraem!! + + Note, page _205_. _Bahar bela ma_ is an Arabic expression, + importing it to be a country once covered with water, but now no + longer so. In the note in this page, I recognise the word Sooess to + designate the Isthmus of Suez. The Bahar Malee, and the Sebaha + Bahoori, are Negro corruptions of the Arabic words _Bahar El + Maleh_, and _Seba Baharet_: the former does not apply particularly + to the Mediterranean, but _is a term applicable to any sea or ocean + that is salt_ (as all seas and oceans assuredly are); the latter + term signifies literally, the Seven Seas or Waters: neither is this + a term applicable to the Mediterranean, but to any sea supplied by + seven rivers, as the Red Sea: these, therefore, are evidently other + inaccuracies of Mr. Hutchison. I apprehend Mr. Hutchison's Arabic + tutor at Ashantee was not an erudite scholar. The term, and the + only term in Africa, applicable to the Mediterranean Sea, is the + _Bahar Segrer_ (literally the Small Sea); and _El Bahar El Kabeer_ + (is the Atlantic Ocean, or literally the Great Sea); the latter is + sometimes figuratively called the _Bahar Addolum_, i.e. the Unknown + Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. +490 + Note, p. 206. Is it possible that the author doubts that Wangara is + east of Timbuctoo? It should seem that he did, as he quotes Mr. + Hutchison as authority for making it to contain Kong, a mountainous + district many journeys south of the _Neel Assudan_. Mr. Park's + testimony is also called in support of this opinion, but they are + both erroneous. Wangara is as well known in Africa to be east of + Timbuqtoo, as in England York is known to be North of of London. + + Oongooroo is a barbarous Negro corruption of Wangara; therefore, + this note, if suffered to pass through the press unnoticed, would + be calculated to confuse, not to elucidate, African geography; + neither can it be called, according to Mr. Horneman's orthography, + Ungura: the name is _Wangara_ which cannot be converted accurately + into any word _but_ Wangara. Ungura Oongooroo, &c. are corruptions + of the proper name, originating in an imperfect, and but an oral + knowledge of the African Arabic. + + Page 210. I apprehend the reason why Wassenah was not known at + Ashantee by the traders, is because it was out of their trading + track. I have no doubt of the existence of Wassenah or Massenah + (for when the names of African towns and countries are recorded, we + should not be particular about a letter or two, when we find so + many orthographical variations are made by different authors); + neither is there any reason (that I know of) to doubt the +491 description of Wassenah given in Riley's Narrative; but it is not + extraordinary, that this place should be unknown at Ashantee, if + there were no commerce or communication between these countries + respectively; it is certain, that the Africans neither know, seek, + or care, for places or countries with which they have no trade or + communication. + + It appears well deserving of observation (for the purpose of + rendering Arabic names intelligible to future African travellers), + that Mr. Bowdich has demonstrated that, what is called in our maps, + 1. Bambarra, 2. Gimbala, 3. Sego, 4. Berghoo, 5. Begarmee, being + written in the Arabic language, with the guttural letter _grain_, + would be quite unintelligible, if pronounced to an African _as they + are written_ by our letters, the nearest approximation to the + Arabic words would be as follows, taking _Gr_ for the nearest + similitude that our alphabet affords to the guttural letter [Arabic] + _grain_. + + Correct Pronunciation. African Orthography. Called in the Maps. + + 1. Banbug'r [Arabic] Bambara. + + 2. Grimbala [Arabic] Gimbala. + + 3. Shagr'u [Arabic] Sego. + + 4. Bergr'u [Arabic] Berghoo. + + 5. Bagrarmee [Arabic] Begarmee. +492 + The African traveller should be precise in his attention to the + sound of these words, otherwise he will be quite unintelligible to + the Africans, and to the Muhamedans. + + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, is certainly incorrect, when he + says, the letter [Arabic] _grain_ should be pronounced _gh_. No + one acquainted _practically_ with the Arabic language, could + possibly be of this opinion; _gh_ having no more resemblance to the + sound of the letter [Arabic] _grain_, than _g_ has to _h_: and + every traveller going to Africa with this erroneous opinion, will, + undoubtedly, be unintelligible to the Africans. + + Finally, the Arabic document, if it may be permitted to call it + Arabic, facing page 128 of this interesting work of Mr. Bowdich, is + a most miserable composition of _Lingua franca_, or corrupt + Spanish, of unintelligible jargon, consisting of many words quite + unintelligible to the Africans, whether Negroes or Moors, or + others. The language of this document, although it has some Arabic + words in it, is worse, if possible, than the scrawl in which it is + written; neither is it a correct translation of the English which + precedes it. But purporting to be a letter issued from the + _accredited servants of the King of the English_, it is certainly a + disgrace to the country from whence it issues, and a rare specimen + of our knowledge of the Arabic language. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. +493 + + _Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa._ + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE JOURNAL OF TRADE, &c. + + Sir, Eton, June 30, 1818. + + The last expedition from Sierra Leone, in addition to many others + sent out for the purpose of _exploring the interior of Africa_, + having failed, and the enterprising and persevering Mr. Burckhardt, + having frustrated the well grounded hopes of the African + Association, by his having paid the debt of nature, it is not + improbable that His Majesty's government _will now direct their + attention with energy to the only plan that can possibly make that + interesting and extraordinary country a jewel in the British + crown_. + + This important discovery, which would immortalise the prince, who + should cherish it to its maturity, _can be effected only through + the medium of commerce_. But it should be attempted not only with + energy and decision, but with _dispatch_, before the enterprising + and commercial spirit of a foreign power (seeing how abortive our + efforts have been), shall snatch from us the glorious opportunity + now offered of _laying open the interior regions of Africa_ to the + commercial enterprise of Great Britain. + + I am, Sir, Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. +494 + + The following curious Memoir was composed by Edmund Hogan, in the + reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lately found amongst the papers of + one of his descendants. + + (A TRUE COPY.) + + "_The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the Sworne Esquires of + her Ma't's Person, from her Highnesse to Muley Abdelmelech, + Emperour of Morocco, and King of Fes and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. + Written by himselfe_. + + "I Edmund Hogan, being appointed Embassadour from the Queens Ma'tie + to the above-named Emperour and King Muley Abdelmelech, departed + with my company and servants from London the 22d April, 1577, being + imbarked in the good ship called the Gallion, of London, and + arrived in Azafi, a port of Barbary, the 21st of May next + following. Immediately I sent Leonell Egerton ashoare with my + letters directed to John Williams and John Bampton, who dispatched + a courier to Morocco to know the Kings pleasure for my repaire to + the court, which letters came to theire hands on the Thursday + night. They with all speed gave the King understanding of it, who + being glad thereof, speeded the next day certaine captaines, with + souldiera and tents, with other provision, to Azafi; so that upon + Whitsunday at night, the said captaines, with John Bampton, Robert +495 Washborne, and Robert Lion, and the Kings officers, came late to + Azafi. In the meane time I remained aboard, and caused some of the + goods to be discharged, for lightning of the ship; and I wrote in + my letter that I would not lande 'till I knew the Kings pleasure. + The 26th day, being Saturday, the Mark-speed arrived in the roade + about two of the clock in the afternoone. The 27th day, being + Whitsunday, came aboard the Gallion, John Bampton, and others, + giving me to understand how much the King rejoyced of my safe + arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie; and how that for my safe + conduct to the court he had sent four captaines, and an hundred + souldiers well appointed, with a horse furnished, which he used + himself to ride on, with all other furniture accordingly; they + wished me also to come on land in the best order I could, as well + for my self as my men, which I did, having to the number of ten + men, whereof three were trumpeters. The ships being four, appointed + themselves in the best order they could, for the best shew, and + shott off all theire ordinance to the value of twenty marks in + powder. At my coming, ashoare, I found all the souldiers well + appointed on horseback, the captaines and the Govern'r of the towne + standing as neer the water side as they could, with a jennet of the + Kings, and rec'd me from the boate, declaring how glad his Ma'tie + was of my safe arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie my +496 Mistresse, and that he had sent them to attend upon me, it being + his pleasure that I should tarrie there on shoare five or six dayes + for my refreshing; so being mounted upon the jennet, they conducted + me through the towne into a faire fielde upon the sea side, where + there was a tent provided for me, and all the ground spread with + Turkie carpets, and the castle discharged a peale of ordinance, and + all things necessarie were brought into my tent, where I both tooke + my table and lodging, and had other convenient tents for my + servants. The souldiers inviron'd the tents, and watched about us + day and night as long as I lay there, altho' I sought my speedier + dispatch. On the Wednesday towards night, I tooke my horse, and + travelled ten miles to the first place of water that wee could + finde, and there pitched our tents 'till the next morning, and so + traveled till ten of the clock, and then pitched our tents 'till + four, and so traveled as long as day light would suffer, about + twenty-six miles that day. The next day being Fryday, I traveled in + like order but eight and twenty miles at the most; and by a + [293]river, being about six miles within sight of the Citty of + Morocco, wee pitched bur tents. Imediately after came all our + English Merchants, and the French, on horseback, to meete me; and + before night there came an Alcayde from the King with fiftie men, + and divers mules laden with victuall and banket for my supper, +497 declaring unto me how glad the King shewed himselfe to hear of the + Queens Ma'tie, and that his pleasure was I should be received into + his countrey as never any Christian the like; and desired to know + what time the next day I would come into his Citie, because he + would that all the Christians, as also his Nobilitie, should meete + me; and willed John Bampton to be with him early in the morning, + which he did. About seven of the clock, being accompanied with the + French and English Merchants, and a great number of souldiers, I + passed towards the Citie, and by that time I had traveled two + miles, there met me all the Christians of the Spaniards and + Portugals to receive me, which I know was more by the Kings + commandment then of any good wills of themselves; for some of them, + although they speake me faire, hung downe theire heads like dogs, + and especially the Portugals; and I countenanced them accordingly. + So I passed on, 'till I came within two English miles of the Citie; + and then John Bampton returned, shewing me that the King was so + glad of my coming, that he could not devise to doe too much, to + shew the good will that he did owe to the Queens Ma'tie and her + Realme; His counsellors met me without the gates; and at the entrie + of the gates, his footmen and guard were placed on both sides of my + horse, and so brought me to the King's palace. The King sate in his + chaire, with his Counsell about him, as well the Moores as the +498 Alkaids; and, according to his order given unto me before, I there + declared my message in Spanish, and made deliverie of the Queens + Ma't's letters, and all that I spake at that present in Spanish, he + caused one of his Alkaids to declare the same to the Moores present + in the Arabic tongue; which done, he answered me againe in Spanish, + yeelding to the Queens Ma'tie great thankes, and offering himselfe + and his countrey to be at her Graces comandment; and he comanded + certaine of his counsellors to conduct me to my lodging, not being + farr from the Court. The house was faire, after the fashion of that + countrey, being dayly well furnished with all kinde of victuall at + the Kings charge. The same night he sent for me to the court, and I + had conference with him about the space of two houres; where I + throughly declared the charge co'mitted unto me from her Ma'tie, + finding him conformable, willing to pleasure, and not to urge her + Ma'tie with any demands, more then conveniently she might willingly + consent unto, hee knowing that out of his countrey the Realme of + England might be better served with lackes, then he in comparison + from us. Further, he gave me to understand, that the King of Spain + had sent unto him for a licence that an Embassadour of his might + come into his countrey, and had made great meanes, that if the + Queens Ma'tie of England sent any unto him, that he would not give + him any credit or entertainment; albeit (said he) I know what the +499 King of Spaine, and what the Queene of England and her realme is; + for I neither like of him, nor of his religion, being so governed + by the Inquisition, that he can doe nothing of himselfe. Therefore, + when he cometh upon the licence which I have granted, he shall well + see how little account I will make of him and Spaine, and how + greatly I will extoll you for the Queenes Ma'tie of England; he + shall not come to my presence as you have done, and shall dayly, + for I minde to accept of you as my companion, and one of my house, + whereas he shall attend twentie dayes after he hath done his + message. After the end of this speech, I delivered Sir Thomas + Gresham's letters; when as he tooke me by the hand, and led me + downe a long court to a palace, where there ranne a faire fountaine + of water, and there sitting himselfe in a chaire, he comanded me to + sitt downe in another, and there called for such simple musicians + as he had. Then I presented him with a greate base lute, which he + most thankfully accepted, and then he was desirous to hear of the + musicians; and I tolde him, that there was great care had to + provide them, and that I did not doubt but upon my returne they + should come with the first ship. He is willing to give them good + entertainment, with provision of victuall, and to let them live + according to theire law and conscience, wherein he urgeth none to + the contrary. I finde him to be one that liveth greatly in the fear +500 of God, being well exercised in the Scriptures, as well in the Old + Testament, as also in the New, and he beareth a greater affection + to our nation then to others, because of our religion, which + forbiddeth worship of idols; and the Moores called him the + Christian King. The same night, being the first of June, I + continued with him till twelve of the clock, and he seemed to have + so good likeing of me, that he tooke from his girdle a short + dagger, being sett with 200 stones rubies and Turkies, and did + bestowe it upon me; and so I, being conducted, returned to my + lodging for that time. The next day, because he knew it to be + Sunday, and our Sabboth day, he did let me rest; but on the Monday + in the afternoone he sent for me, and I had conference with him + againe, and musick. Likewise on the Tuesday, by three of the clock, + he sent for me into his garden, finding him layed upon a silk bed, + complaining of a sore leg; yet, after long conference, he walked + into another orchard, whereas having a fair banketing house, and a + great water, and a new gallie in it, he went aboard the gallie, and + tooke me with him, and passed the space of two or three houres, + shewing the great experience he had in gallies, wherein (as he + said) he had exercised himselfe eighteene yeares in his youth. + After supper he shewed me his horses, and other co'modities that he + had about his house; and since that night I have not seene him, for + that he hath kept in with his sore legg; but he hath sent to me +501 dayly. The 18th of June, at six of the clock at night, I had againe + audience of the King, and I continued with him, till midnight, + having debated, as well for the Queenes co'mission, as for the + well-dealing with her merchants for their traffick here in these + parts, saying, he would do much more for the Queenes Ma'tie and the + Realme; offering that all English ships with her subjects may with + good securitie enter into his ports and dominions, as well in trade + of merchandize, as for victuall and water, as also in time of warr + with any of her enemies, to bring in prizes, and to make sales as + occasion should serve, or else to depart againe with them at theire + pleasure. Likewise for all English ships that shall passe along his + Coast of Barbary, and threw the Streights into the Levant seas, and + so to the Turks dominions, and the King of Algiers, as his owne; + and that he would write to the Turke, and to the King of Algiers, + his letters for the well using of our ships and goods. Also, that + hereafter no Englishman that by any meanes may be taken captives, + shall be sold within any of his dominions; whereupon I declared + that the Queenes Ma'tie, accepting of these his offers, was pleased + to confirme the intercourse and trade of our Merchants within this + his countrey, as also to pleasure him with such commodities as he + should have need of, to furnish the necessities and wants of his + country in trade of merchandize, so as he required nothing contrary + to her honour and law, and the breach of league with the Christian +502 Princes her neighbours. The same night I presented the King with + the case of combes, and desired his Ma'tie to have speciall regard + that the ships might be Iaden back againe, for that I found little + store of salt-peter in readinesse in John Bampton's hands; he + answered me, that I should have all the assistance therein that he + could, but that in[294] Sus he thought to have some store in his + house there, as also that the Mountainers had made much in a + readinesse; I requested that he would sende downe, which he + promised to doe. The eighteenth day I was with him againe, and so + continued there till night; and he shewed me his house, with + pastime in ducking with water spaniels, and baiting bulls with his + English doggs. At this time I moved him againe for the sending + downe to Sus, which he granted to doe; and the 24th day there + departed Alcayde Mammie, with Lionell Egerton, and Rowland Guy, to + Sus; and carried with them, for our accounts and his company, the + Kings letters to his brother Muly Hammet, and Alcayde Shavan, and + the Viceroy. The 23d day the King sent me out of Morocco to his + garden called Shersbonare, with his guard and Alcayde Mamoute; and + the 24th at night I came to the Court to see a Morris-dance, and a + play of his Alkaids; he promised me audience the next day, being +503 Tuesday, but he putt it off 'till Thursday; and the Thursday at + night I was sent for to the King after supper, and then he sent + Alcayde Rodwan and Alcayde Gowry to conferr with me; but, after a + little talk, I desired to be brought to the King for my dispatch. + And being brought to him,. I preferred two bills of John Bampton's, + which he had made for provision of salt-peter, also two bills for + the quiet traffique of our English Merchants, and bills for sugars + to be made by the Jewes, as well for the debts past, as hereafter, + and for good order in the Ingenios. Also I moved him againe for the + salt-peter, and other dispatches, which he referred to be agreed + upon by the two Alcaydes. But the Fryday, being the 20th, the + Alcaydes could not intend it, and upon Saturday Alcayde Rodwan fell + sick; so on Sunday wee made meanes to the King, and that afternoone + I was sent for to conferre upon the bargaine with the Alcaydes and + others; but did not agree. Upon Tuesday I wrote a letter to the + King for my dispatch; and the same afternoone I was called againe + to the Court, and referred all things to the King, accepting his + offer of salt-peter. That night againe the King had me into his + gallie, and the spaniels did hunt the duck. The Thursday I was + appointed to weigh the 300 quintals grosse of salt-peter,, and that + afternoone the Tabybe came unto me to my lodging, shewing me that + the King was offended with John Bampton for divers causes. The +504 Sunday night late, being the 7th July, I got the King to forgive + all to John Bampton, and the King promised me to speake againe with + me upon Monday. Upon Tuesday I wrote to him againe for my dispatch, + and then he sent Fray Lewes to me, and said, that he had order to + write. Upon Wednesday I wrote againe; and he sent me word that I + should come and be dispatched, so that I should depart upon Fryday + without faile, being the 12th July. So the Fryday after, according + to the Kings order and appointment, I went to the Court; and + whereas motion and petition was made for the confirmac'on of the + demands which I had preferred, they were all granted, and likewise + which were on the behalfe of our English Merchants requested, were + with great favour and readinesse yeilded unto. And whereas the + Jewes there resident, were to our men in certaine round sum'es + indebted, the Emperor's pleasure and co'mandment was, that they + should without further excuse or delay pay and discharge the same. + And thus at length I was dismissed with great honour and speciall + countenance, such as hath not ordinarily bene shewed to other + Embassadors of the Christians. And touching the private affairs + intreated upon betwixt her Ma'tie and the Emperour, I had letters + from him to satisfie her Highnesse therein. So to conclude, having + received the like honourable conduct from his Court, as I had for + my part at my first landing, I imbarked myself with my foresaid +505 company; and arriving not long after in England, I repaired to her + Ma'ties Court, and ended my embassage to her Highnesses good + liking, with relation of my service performed." + + [Footnote 293: The Tensift.] + + [Footnote 294: Great quantities of superior saltpetre are + produced at Terodant in Suse.] + + _Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L. and E._ + + Sir, London, 17th January, 1818. + + Having read, with considerable satisfaction, your very able and + judicious dissertation respecting Africa, in the new Supplement to + the Encyclopedia Britannica, I will take the liberty to offer some + animadversions that have occurred to me in the perusal of that very + interesting article. + + _Bahr Klla_ I conceive to be an immerged country, of considerable + extent, similar to Wangara; for the name, which is Arabic, implies + as much. The correct orthography, translated literally into English + is _Bahr Klha_, which signifies the sea, wholly or altogether, + implying, therefore, an alluvial country. + + Respecting goat-skins dyed red or yellow, these are not brought by + caravans from central Africa to Marocco, but are manufactured at + Marocco, Fas, Mequinas, and Terodant the metropolis of Suse, from + which manufactories they are conveyed to the interior regions for + sale. Goat-skins, with the hair, in the raw state only, are + exported from Mogodor to England. +506 + When Moore asserted that there was no such river as the Niger, he + evidently meant that the _natives of Africa_ knew it not by that + name; which is undoubtedly correct; for the word being an European + word, it would not be known in Africa: but its translation into + Arabic is _Bahar El Abeed_, i. e. the river of Negroes. Edrissi + called it Niger, from the same motive, viz. because it was so named + by _Europeans_, and by them only. + + I conceive that the hypothesis which has been credited by some, + viz. that there is no receptacle for the two Niles, between Cashna + and Timbuctoo, must now necessarily fall to the ground; since the + sea of Sudan, first declared by me to be between Cashna and + Timbuctoo, and since confirmed by Ali Bey, and by Park, in his + second journey, can (as I apprehend) no longer be doubted: and it + is not improbable that this is the common receptacle of the Nile of + the West and the Nile of the East. This hypothesis is strengthened + by the testimony of the Shereef Imhammed, who has said, that he + himself saw the Nile, at Cashna, flowing so rapidly westward, that + vessels could not stem the current. If this be true, the [295]_Ba + Sea Feena_ of Park, which is only another name for the _Sea of + Sudan_, must lie west of Cashna, and, probably, about the same +507 point that it is stated by me to be situated, viz. fifteen journeys + of horse-travelling, or from 400 to 450 British miles east of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 295: The Arabic orthography is _Bahar S'feena_ which + being literally translated into English, signifies the Sea of + Ships.] + + The word _Djinawa_ is the African word that denominates Guinea, but + I cannot imagine that it was ever intended to signify Gana. (See + Supplement to Encyclopdia Britannica, p. 104.) + + You say there are, in Africa, two rivers to which the name of + _Niger_ has been given: this is evidently an error, but possibly of + the press only. There are, however, two rivers in Africa to which + the name of _Neel_ has been given. + + The Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p. 540, declare + that the Nile is a name applied in Africa to any great river; but + as this assertion is calculated to produce confusion in the + geographical elucidation of the interior of that continent, and as + it certainly is not the fact, I must here beg leave to contradict + it, and declare that there are absolutely but two rivers in Africa, + that bear the name Neel or Nile, viz. the Neel El Kabeer, Neele + Sudan, or Neel El Abeed, i.e. the great Nile, the Nile of Sudan or + the Nile of the Negroes; and Neele Masser, i.e. the Nile of + Egypt.[296] + + [Footnote 296: _Nile_ is a French term, and loses its proper + pronunciation and is unintelligible when pronounced by an + Englishman to an African; but if written _Neel_, and pronounced + by an Englishman, it is intelligible.] + + If my knowledge of the African Arabic can be of any service in +508 giving you the signification or correct orthography of African + words, in the event of your favouring the public with a future + edition of your New Supplement to the Encyclopdia Britannica, any + information that I can communicate to you will be very much at your + service; and you may in this and in any other respect that regards + Africa freely command my services. + + + _Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels + in Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D., by Hugh Murray, Esq. + F.R.S.E._ + + TO HUGH MURRAY ESQ. F.R.S.E. + + Sir, + + London, Feb. 1818. + + You have certainly rendered to your country a service, in the + publication of "The Travels and Discoveries in Africa, of the late + John Leyden," the perusal of which has been to me a fund of + instruction and entertainment; it is a most valuable work, and such + a one as was wanted by the literary world, inasmuch as the + judicious collection of the matter forms a most valuable epitome of + African knowledge, collecting what was before distributed into many + folios. + + I anticipate that the information in this work, communicated to the + public, will soon be circulated, and you will be called upon to + supply a second edition. In the mean time, I take the liberty of + submitting to your perusal a few cursory observations which I have +509 made during the perusal of it, on the accuracy of which you may + assuredly rely. These apply for the most part to Arabian words, + which have been by the moderns, as well as the ancients variously + corrupted and mutilated. Desirous (for the information of those who + really seek after African knowledge) that this book will pass + through many editions. I am, &c. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Cursory Observations_. + + "The _Ludaia_, are not inhabitants of _Ludama_, they are a very + numerous and warlike tribe of Arabs, inhabiting the Sahara, of + which there are two or three emigrations or encampments in + different and distant parts of Sahara; the Emperor of Marocco has + some thousands of them in his army, and they are esteemed (next to + the negroes, called Abeed Seedy Bukaree) his best troops. See the + Map of the tracts from Fas and Arguin to Timbuctoo, facing page 1. + Lat. N. 24. long. W. 3. + + "This serpent is the _Bska_, described in Jackson's enlarged + Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109. Providence has afforded to man an + opportunity of evading the attack of this deadly animal; for when + it coils itself up, and by the strength of its tail darts forward + fifteen or twenty yards at once, the person attacked, by watching + vigilantly its motions, evades the attack, by moving only a short + distance from the right line, in which it is prepared to dart +510 forwards; neither can the _Bska_ govern itself in the extent of + its movement, but necessarily goes as far as its strength will + permit, and then coils itself up again in a circular form, again + erects its head, and darts a second time to its object. I have + conversed with Arabs, who have been attacked by this monster, and + they have assured me, that, by vigilantly watching its motion, and + the direction of its head, when preparing to dart forward, they may + escape its attack.[297] + + "It is not correct to assert that _Nasari is a general term_, + applied to infidels in Muhamed; it is applied to Christians only. + _Kaffer is the general term_ applied to all who have not faith in + the Arabian Prophet.[298] + + "That which you call the Talk Tree, is the tree which produces the + Barbary gum; the name is _talh_.[299]" + + [Footnote 297: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 306.] + + [Footnote 298: Ibid, p. 429.] + + [Footnote 299: Ibid. 204.] + + "The _Keydenah_.--This is the Sudanic name for the tree which + produces the Argan nut, or olive, the _kernel_ of which resembles a + bitter almond, and from _it_, not from the shell, they extract the + oil, so celebrated for frying fish, and for burning; a pint of + which will afford light as long as two pints of olive oil. + + "The She plant, or properly Sheh is not wild thyme, nor does it + resemble it, it is the wormseed plant, the seed of which is an +511 article of exportation, from the ports of Marocco, The sheh + resembles the absynthum. The wild thyme is called _zatar_, also an + article of exportation from the ports of the Marocco empire.[300] + + "The _Alsharra_ signifies the Book of Laws of Muhamed.[301] + + "_Gebel Ramlie_ should be written _Jibbel Rummelie_, i.e. the Sandy + Mountain.[302] + + "The Elwah [303]Elgarbie is inhabited by the Maggrebee Arabs. My + late friend, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother to Muley Soliman, the + reigning Emperor of Marocco, had a very large estate in this Wah, + called Santariah. In the 1793d year of the Christian era, he sent + his friend and servant Alkaid Muhammed ben Abd Saddack, late + governor of Mogodor, to effect the sale of this estate. He was + absent on this embassy two years and three months.[304] + + "_Sheb_ is the Arabic for alum, the correct orthography is + _Shib_.[305] + + "_Marybucks_ should be _Marabet_, i.e. Priests, or Holy + Muhamedans.[306] + + "The primitive plough is used in all the African countries + inhabited by the Arabs, or their descendants; the negroes, however, + use the hoe." [307] + + [Footnote 300: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 312.] + + [Footnote 301: Ibid, p. 334.] + + [Footnote 302: Ibid, p. 398.] + + [Footnote 303: Let the African traveller be careful to + pronounce these g's guttural (Arabic.)] + + [Footnote 304: Ibid, p. 399.] + + [Footnote 305: Ibid. ibid.] + + [Footnote 306: Ibid. p. 225.] + + [Footnote 307: Ibid. p. 227.] + +512 + "The Mouselmines is a French corruption of the term Muselman, i.e. + Mohamedans. + + "Mongearts, i.e. Moguert, the g guttural. + + "Ouadelim, i.e. Wooled Deleim, or the sons of Deemy. + + "Labdessebah, i.e. Woled Abbusebah, 'the sons of Abbusebah.'[308] + + "Wed de Non, i.e. Wedinoon. + + "The herb, with a decoction of which they dye their nails and + hands, is called by the Arabs _El Henna_: it imparts a coolness and + softness to the hands, and diminishes the excessive perspiration + incident to warm climates.[309] + + "Hooled ben Soliman ought to be Woled ben Soliman, 'the sons of the + sons of Soliman;' and Benioled, should be Ben El Waled, 'the sons + of Elwaled.'[310] + + "The small beautiful species of deer, is the _El Horreh:_ it is an + inhabitant of the confines of the Saharah; it is said never to lie + down. It produces the anti-poison called bezoar stone, (called in + the Arabic _Bide El Horrek_, i.e. the testicle of the Horreh.) This + is an article of commerce at Santa Cruz, and Wedinoon. The back and + sides of the skins of these animals are of a red brown, and of a + vivid white underneath." [311] + + [Footnote 308: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 262.] + + [Footnote 309: Ibid. p. 291.] + + [Footnote 310: Ibid. p. 299.] + + [Footnote 311: Ibid. p. 303.] + +513 + TO JAMES GREY JACKSON, ESQ. + + Sir, + + Edinburgh, May 3. 1818. + + I have lately been favoured with two communications from you:--the + one a letter to Mr. Napier, editor of the Encyclopdia Britannica, + on the subject of the article _Africa_, of which I was the author, + and which Mr. Napier, therefore, put into my hands; the other, a + letter direct to myself, on the subject of my edition of "Leyden's + Discoveries in Africa." I fully intended to have answered them + before now, but the pressure of other business, with the wish to + bestow upon them the leisurely consideration which they merited, + has hitherto prevented me. I feel much gratified by the favourable + opinion which you express of what I have done on this subject, and + much obliged to you for your communications, and offers of further + information. I experienced very much the disadvantage arising from + a want of knowledge of the languages of North Africa, with which + you appear to have a _very extensive acquaintance. Indeed, several + of the etymologies which you have given, are very interesting_. I + was particularly pleased to receive that of the term _Ba Sea + Feena_, though I cannot conceal that it tends to strengthen the + doubts which I have entertained of its applying to the sea on the + Gold Coast. The distance, the direction southwards, the Christians, + the motion one way and another, and even the ships, are all +514 circumstances which would agree. There are arguments, however, + against it; and it is certain that Park did not so understand it. + Do you think there is any chance that the Bahr Soudan could be the + Gulf of Guinea? + + If you are acquainted with any circumstances which could tend to + confirm or refute the narrative of Sidi Hamet, as given by Riley, + or throw light upon Riley's general credibility; or if you have + ever heard any report of such a city as _Wassanah_, I should feel + particularly obliged to you for communicating such information: and + whenever I find myself at a loss, I shall gladly avail myself of + the liberality with which you show yourself disposed to impart the + knowledge of which you have become possessed. + + I shall communicate this letter to Mr. Napier; and it is but fair + to mention, that, from the circumstances already stated, I am + solely responsible for the too long delay which has taken place in + answering your letter to him, as well as that to myself. + + HUGH MURRAY. + + _On the Niger and the Nile._ + + London, 7th April, 1820. + + In the 25th number of the Quarterly Review, (article Park's + Travels,) the hypothesis there laid down as almost indisputable, is +515 the non-continuity of the two Niles of Africa, or (according to the + European phraseology of the day) of the Niger and the Nile. + + This hypothesis founded on the opinion of Major Rennel, carries + with it no evidence whatever, but the speculative theory of that + learned geographer. The identity or connection of the two Niles, + and the consequent water communication between[312] Cairo and + Timbuctoo receives (supposing the Quarterly Review to be correct), + as our intelligence respecting Africa increases, additional + confirmation: and even the Quarterly Reviewer, who denominated the + opinion recorded by me, the gossipping stories of Negroes, (_vide_ + Quarterly Review, No. 25, p. 140.) now favours this opinion! + + The Quarterly Reviewer appreciates Burckhardt's information on this + subject, and depreciates mine, _although both are derived from the + same sources of[313] intelligence, and confirm one another_: the + reviewer says, Mr. Burckhardt has revived a question of older date; + viz. "that the Niger of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are one and the + same river: this general testimony to a physical fact can be shaken + only by direct proof to the contrary." + + [Footnote 312: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 310.] + + [Footnote 313: _i. e_. Intelligence from natives of Africa.] + + This is all very well: I do not object to the Quarterly Reviewer + giving up an opinion which he finds no longer tenable; but when I + see in the same review (No. 44, p. 481.) the following words,--"we +516 give no credit whatever to the report received by Mr. Jackson, of a + person (several Negroes[314], it should be) having performed a + voyage by water from Timbuctoo to Cairo," I cannot but observe with + astonishment, that the Reviewer believes Burckhardt's report, that + they are the same river, when, at the same time he does not believe + mine. + + [Footnote 314: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 312.] + + Is there not an inconsistency here, somewhat incompatible with the + impartiality which _ought_ to regulate the works of criticism? I + will not for a moment suppose it to have proceeded from a spirit of + animosity, which I feel myself unconscious of deserving. But the + reviewer further says, the objection to the identity of the Niger + and the Nile, is grounded on the incongruity of their periodical + inundations, or on the rise and fall of the former river not + corresponding with that of the latter. I do not comprehend whence + the Quarterly Reviewer has derived this information; I have always + understood the direct contrary, which I have declared in the + enlarged editions of my account of Marocco, page 304, which has + been confirmed by a most intelligent African traveller, Ali Bey, + (for which see his travels, page 220.) + + I may be allowed to observe, that although the Quarterly Reviewer + has changed his opinion on this matter, I have invariably + maintained mine, founded as it is on the concurrent testimony of + the best informed and most intelligent native African travellers, +517 and I still assert, on the same foundation, _the identity of the + two Niles, and their continuity of waters_. + + I have further to remark what will most probably ere long prove + correct; viz. that the _Bahar Abiad_[315], that is to say, the + river that passes through the country of Negroes, between Senaar + and Donga, is an erroneous appellation, originating in the general + ignorance among European travellers of the African Arabic, and that + the proper name of this river is Bahar Abeed, which is another term + for the river called the Nile-el-Abeed, which passes south of + Timbuctoo towards the east (called by Europeans the Niger). + + It therefore appears to me, and I really think it must appear to + every unbiassed investigator of African geography, that every iota + of African discovery, made successively, by Hornemann[316], + Burckhardt, and others, tends to confirm _my water communication + between Timbuctoo and Cairo_, and the theorists and speculators in + African geography, who have heaped hypothesis upon hypothesis, + error upon error, who have raised splendid fabrics upon pillars of + ice, will ere long close their book, and be compelled, by the force + of truth and experience, to admit the fact stated about twelve + years ago by me in my account of Marocco, &c. viz. _that the Nile +518 of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are identified by a continuity of + waters, and that a water communication is provided by these two + great rivers from Timbuctoo to Cairo_; and moreover, that the + general African opinion, _that the Neel-el-Abeed_ (Niger) + _discharges itself into the_ (Bahar el Mleh) _Salt Sea, signifies + neither more nor less than that it discharges itself at the Delta + in Egypt, into the Mediterranean Sea_! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + [Footnote 315: Bahar Abiad signifies White River; Bahar Abeed + signifies River of Negroes.] + + [Footnote 316: _Vide_ my letter in Monthly Magazine on this + subject for March, 1817, p. 124.] + + + + + APPENDIX + + BEING HISTORICAL FRAGMENTS IN ELUCIDATION OF + THE FOREGOING PAGES. + +_First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo.--Timbuctoo and Guago captured +by Muley Homed, (son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley +Melk[317], or Muley Moluck,) in the 16th Century, (about the Year +1580_.) + + [Footnote 317: See the Spectator, No. 349.] + +Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Moluck, in 1577, A.C. fought the +celebrated battle with Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, near Alkassar, +which is at a short distance from L'Araich, wherein Don Sebastian was +killed; and Abdelmelk being, before the battle, extremely ill, his son +Muley Hamed went to his litter, to communicate to the Emperor his +father, that the Moors had gained the victory, when he found his father +dead and cold. Muley Hamed concealed this event till the battle was +over; and was then proclaimed Emperor, and reigned twenty-six years: he +cultivated the arts and sciences, mathematics and astronomy, which last +was of essential service to him in crossing the Sahara to Timbuctoo and +Guago; during which perilous journey the compass is so indispensable, +that there is no certainty of travelling without it. He lost some +thousands in this expedition; but if gold could recompense the waste of +human life, he was rewarded for his journey of abstinence and privation +across the Sahara, for he brought from Guago seventy-five quintals, and +from Timbuctoo sixty quintals, of gold-dust, making together one hundred +and thirty-five quintals, or 16,065 lb. English avoir-du-poids weight of +gold. + +_A Library of Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards,--Contests among +Christians reprimanded._ + +Muley Sidan, son of Muley Hamed, disputed the throne of Marocco, A.C. +1611, with three brothers, one of whom was supported by the Spaniards, +whose succour was purchased by his delivering into their hands the port +of L'Araich, soon after which they gained a naval victory over the +forces of Sidan, which was very disastrous to the Africans; for the +Spaniards, besides other plunder, got possession of 3000 Arabic books, +on theology, philosophy, and medicine. Sidan, however, notwithstanding +this disaster, maintained his right to the crown. He was of a liberal +and charitable mind. He protected and granted to the Christians various +privileges; but _he ordered that Christians of all sects, and +denominations should live in peace one with another_. + +One day, some (_Userah_) Christian slaves of Provence, in France, who +were Catholics, had a controversial dispute with others from Rochelle, +who were Calvinists. This dispute ended in a violent contest, +accompanied with blows on either side; this scene excited the curiosity +of the Muselmen, who were surprised to see Christians thus fight among +themselves on points of their own law! The report of this battle was +carried to Sidan, who ordered all these slaves to be brought before him. +He condemned some to a bastinado, which was inflicted in his presence. +He then addressed them thus:--"I command you all, on pain of death, not +to dispute in future on the various dogmas of your law: every one has +the presumption to think _himself_ right; and as I allow every +individual in my dominions to follow the religion that he chooses for +himself; _slaves ought to have among themselves the same toleration_". + +_Muley El Arsheed, (a second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan.)_ + +This Sultan preceded the renowned Muley Ismael, on the throne of +Marocco: he united to great ability the most ferocious disposition, and +was continually inebriated.--He crossed the Sahara to Timbuctoo, with a +numerous army, about the year of Christ 1670; proceeding to _Suse_, he +laid siege to the Sanctuary of _Seedi Aly ben Aidar_, near _Ilirgh_: +Seedi Aly, making his escape in disguise, fled to Sudan, whither he was +followed by Muley El Arsheed, who, on his arrival on the confines of +Sudan, between Timbuctoo and Jinnie, was met by a numerous host of +Negroes, commanded by a black sultan: the Emperor demanded Aly ben +Aidar; but the sultan of Bambarra replied, that, as he had claimed his +protection, it would be an infringement on the laws of hospitality to +deliver him up, adding, that he desired to know if the views of El +Arsheed were hostile or not; to which the latter replied, after +endeavouring in vain to procure the person of Aly, that he was not come +hostilely, but was about to return, which he forthwith did: and the +Bambareen sultan, having received from Aly two beautiful renegade +virgins, was so much flattered with the present, that he promised him +any thing that he should ask; whereupon, he requested permission to go +to Timbuctoo, and to settle there with his numerous followers; which +being granted, he proceeded thither, and having established a Moorish +garrison, resided there several, months, and afterwards returned to +Barbary, bringing with him many thousand Bambareen negroes: but, on his +reaching Suse, he heard of the death of Muley El Arsheed, and having +then no farther occasion for these negroes, he dismissed them. They went +to various parts of the country, serving the inhabitants in order to +procure daily subsistence; but the arch-politician Muley Ismael, who had +then recently been proclaimed as his successor, ordered them to be +collected together, and incorporated in his negro army, which was, +however, before this, very numerous, consisting for the most part of +blacks, brought away from Sudan by Muley El Arsheed the preceding year. +The Sultan Ismael also seized this opportunity of establishing his +authority at Timbuctoo, and he met with little or no opposition in +putting that place under contribution. Having sent fresh troops to +occupy the Moorish garrison there, the inhabitants were glad to make a +contribution, in exchange for the protection and power which it afforded +them; for previous to this, they had been subject to continual +depredations, from the Arabs of the adjacent country, to whom they had +been compelled to pay tribute, as a security for their caravans, which +were constantly passing the country of these Arabs, who are of the race +of Brabeesh. In the year 1727, A.C. when Ismael died, it is reported +that he possessed an immense quantity of gold, of the purity of which, +his gold coins, to be seen at this day at Timbuctoo, bear testimony; it +is also said, that the massive bolts of his palaces were of pure gold, +as well as the utensils of his kitchens. After his decease, however, the +tribute was discontinued, and the Moorish garrison at Timbuctoo, +intermarrying with the natives, and dispersing themselves in the +neighbouring country, has given to Timbuctoo that tincture of Muselman +manners, which they are known to possess; their descendants forming, at +this period, a considerable portion of the population of Timbuctoo. + +_Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan_. + +Muley Ismael died of an abscess in 1727, and was succeeded by his +youngest son Muley Hamed Dehebby, a most avaricious prince, whose +treasure, collected in his government during the life of his father, +amounted to ten millions; to which was now added his father's treasury, +amounting to fifty millions, besides jewels and diamonds to a much +larger amount. + +Dehebby[318], sanguinary and cruel when sober, was mild, affable, and +humane when intoxicated: unlike Muselmen, he believed not in +predestination, but had always several surgeons and doctors in his +suite, and consulted them with the most unlimited confidence when ill. +He decorated the palace of Marocco: in one of the apartments of the +seraglio, of which he had had painted, in a superior style, the twelve +signs of the zodiac; for which his ignorant and bigoted subjects accused +him of having conspired against the Deity, in imitating, by gross and +ill-formed images, the works of the Almighty. This prince was an +intolerable drunkard; so that the Marabets and chiefs of the empire +called Abdelmelk to the throne, whom they enabled to take possession of +Mequinas. This prince, anticipating the revenge of Dehebby, proposed to +deprive him of his eye-sight; but the Marabets and chiefs opposed this +resolution and replied to him in the following words:--"It is not for +his crimes that we have deposed thy brother, but for his continual +intoxication, which prevented him from watching over the government and +his officers: he has therefore only been guilty of weakness, which is +not a punishable crime." Abdelmelk dared not push his point, but was +contented to send his brother to the (_Bled Shereef_), country of +princes, i.e. Tafilelt. Before Dehebby was dethroned, he marched with a +numerous army across Sahara, to Timbuctoo, of which he took possession, +and brought home immense quantities of gold. + + [Footnote 318: His proper name was Muley Hamed ben Ismael, the name + Dehebby is figurative of his riches in gold.] + +1730.--Muley Hamed Dehebby dying, should have been succeeded by his son +Muley Bouffer; but money and intrigue gave power to Abdallah, a son of +Muley Ismael, who was proclaimed in spite of the efforts of his nephew, +whom he attacked at Terodant, the capital of Suse. Bouffer was taken, +together with a Marabet, his confidential friend and counsellor. +Abdallah ordered them both to be brought before him.--"Thou art young," +said he to his nephew; "thou hadst imprudently undertaken more than thou +couldst accomplish; and in consideration of thy youth and inexperience, +I pardon thee, but I will be revenged of thy counsellor." Then turning +himself to the Marabet, "Thou, art a rebel," said he. "Didst thou +imagine that thy sacred character, which thou hast abused against thy +(_Seed_) Lord or King would prevent him from punishing thee? Let us see +if thy sanctity will turn the edge of my sword."--In uttering these +words, he struck off the saint's head. + + + + + I N D E X. + + * * * * * + + +A. + +ABDELMELK, the prince, moral reflection on his expensive apparel, +79. Is sent to Tafilelt, 80. +_Abolition_ of Slavery depends on the Africans themselves, not on +our naval force or operations, 270. +_Abstinence_ experienced in the Sahara, 353. Means used to support +it. Effects of, 354. +_Abbuselah Woled_, Arabs of, 138. +_Abdrahaman ben Nassar_, bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Abdsalam_, prince, departs for Tafilelt, through Draha and Bled el +jereed, 149. +_Abeed_, 481. Seedi Bukaree, emperor's body guard, 481. +_Aboukir_, battle of, its consequence to muselmen, 101. +_Acephali_, 198. +_Africa_, plan for the discovery of, 201. +_African_ Association, Institution, &c. recommended to unite their +energies and operations to cultivate a commercial intercourse with +Africa, 228. The same recommended an a large scale, 249. African +Company, a plan for, 251. African Association, disastrous +expeditions of, 258. An union of the African interests beneficial, +271. African duplicity exemplified, 293. African Association might +find the son of Ali Bey an acquisition in promoting their views, 304. +_African_ names, how pronounced, 491. +_Agadeer_, or Santa Cruz, port of, opened to Dutch commerce, 55. +Apprehensions at Mogodor from the establishment of Santa Cruz, 56. +Conveniently situated for the markets of Sudan. Denominated the gate +of Sudan, 56. Port of, farmed by Muley Ismael, 57. Author's arrival +at, to open the port to European commerce. Wretched state of its +inhabitants. Honourable reception of the author there, 59. +Disgraceful custom abolished by the author, 60. Propensity to +commerce among the people of Suse. Sanctuary at the entrance of the +town. Privilege of riding in and out of the town established by the +author, for Christians of all denominations, 61. Commercial road +made by the author down the mountain to facilitate the shipment of +merchandise, 62. The spirit of the natives in working at it. Happy +influence of commerce and industry on the people. Portuguese tower +in the neighbourhood, 63. Description of the town, 64. Strength of, +and convenient situation for a dept, 65. Mitferes, depositaries for +water, 65. Attempt of the Danes to establish a colony in its +vicinage, at Agadeer Arba. Battery at, 66. Safe road for shipping. +Inhabitants friendly to the English, 67. Port of, shut by the +Emperor, and the garrison and merchants ordered to go to Marocco, +and from thence to quit the country or establish at Mogodor, 79. +Negociation for the port of, from the emperor, 246. +_Agricultural_ property, division of, 330. Agriculture, 339. +_Aisawie_, or charmers of serpents described, 430. +_Ait Attar_, or Attarites, an independent kabyl or clan, 311. +_Akka_, 7. Dept for camels, 248. +_Akkaba_, kaffilas, or caravans to Timbuctoo, where eligible to be +established, 263. +_Akkaba_, what, 345. +_Akkad_, its signification, 411. +_Alk Sudan_, what, 345. +_Altitude_ of the Atlas mountains, 93, 94. +_Ali Bey_, an account of; 297. Suspicions entertained respecting +him. His magnificent mode of living. Excites the suspicion of the +governor of Marocco, 300. He is prevented from visiting the Atlas +mountains, 301. He is favoured by the emperor, 302. Stratagem +practised to ascertain what religion he followed. Ordered to embark +at Laraich. Is separated from his wife. Her conduct. He predicts an +eclipse, 303. Passes for a learned man. Suspected to be an agent of +Bonaparte. His son resides at Fas, patronised by the Marabet Muley +Dris or Idris, 304. +_Algiers_, attack of, recommended to the Emperor of Marocco, 283. +_Almonds_, plantations of, 74. +_Ambassador_, British, the author's interview with. Great +honor shown to him on his entry into Tangier, 127. +_Amber_, manufactured imitation of, at Fas, 126. 216. +_Amaranites_, or Ait Amaran, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Amak_, the poet, his sumptuous style of living, 353. +_Amorites_, of the, 475. +------, or Ait Amor, 122. Descendants of the ancient Amorites, 124. +Anecdotes of, 193. +_Amusements_ of Europeans at Marocco, 89. +_Anachronism_ of the author misapplied, 442. +_Angola_, natives of, how converted to Christianity, 442. +_Anti-commercial_ system, 211. +_Antiperistasis_ of the Africans, how promoted, 230. +_Antimony_ mines, 331. +_Anecdote_ of an Emperor, 307. +_Anecdotes_, fragments, and notes, 276. +_Antithesis_, a favourite figure with the Arabs, 349. +_Apparel_ of the emperor, plain and simple, 79. +_Arabs_, cookery of, 64. Riches of, in what they consist, 247. Dance +and music, 140. Abstinence of, 141. Beauty of their women, 142. +Patriarchal life of, 143. 196. Arab royalty personified, 195. +Customs of, 244. Of Sahara, hostile to those who do not understand +their language, 262. The manners of, resemble those of the +patriarchal ages, 276. The study of their language and customs the +best comment on the Old Testament, 276. Their territory and origin, +328. Decay of science and arts among, 352. +------, sheiks of, hold themselves accountable for the property, +baggage, &c. of travellers, 233. +_Arabic_ document distributed by Mr. Bowdich in Africa, to the +natives, unintelligible, 492. +------, language, on the, 471. The language of Palestine resembles +that of West Barbary, 473. +----------, general utility of, a practical knowledge of in Africa, +258. On the language, 357. Arabian music, 318. Arabic grammar, +errors in Richardson's, 351. Pure Arabic, where spoken, 351. Arabian +modes of writing, 350, Errors committed by professors of, who have +not a practical knowledge of the language, 39. +----------, universality of the, 473. +------, translations of documents in, furnished to government by the +author, 407. +------, manuscripts, 3000 taken by the Spaniards, 520. +------, interpreter, the author officiates as, with the prince Muley +Teib, 192. +_Architecture_ described, 90. Gothic prevails, 271. +_Argan_ tree, and oil of, 510. +------, trees, oil of the, productive of leprosy if not properly +prepared, 91. +_Ashantee_, intercourse through, with Timbuctoo objectionable, and +why, 249. +_Atlas_, foot of, a productive country, 74. Table land in, and +produce of, 75. Narrow defile or pass, 76. Calculated altitude of, 93. +_Attarites_, or Ait Attar, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Audiences_ of the emperor, introductory, of business, of leave or +departure, 89. +_Author's_ intelligence respecting the interior of Africa, +considered valuable, 99. +------, travels in disguise, 136. +_Azamore_, 110. + +B. + +_Bab_ Sudan, 456. +_Badge_ of distinction worn by the lepers, 91. +_Bahar_ Segrer, the Mediterranean designated by that term, +489. +------, Sudan, corroborative testimony of its situation, 450, 451, 465. +----------, situation of, 436. +------, Kulla, explanation of the term, 444. Ditto of Bahar Sudan, 448. +------, El Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, Atlantic Ocean designated by +that name, 489. +------, El Abeed, not Bahar El Abiad, 517. +_Ba_ Scafeena, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, 450, 465. +----------, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, properly +called Bahar S'feena, 506. +_Bank_, in West Barbary, recommended, 237. +_Banks_, Sir Joseph's letter to Mr. Dickson, respecting the death of +Mungo Park, a passage in it confirmed only in Mr. Jackson's +translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's account of that traveller's +death, brought by Mr. Bowdich from Ashantee, but not in Mr. Salem's +translation, 425. The author's translation, 409. +_Barbary_, conquered by the Romans, by the Vandals, by the Greeks, +by the Arabs, 458. Partial conquest of by the Portuguese and +Spaniards, 458. +--------, travelling in, 293. +_Bashaw_ of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Bedouins_, emigration of. Camel's milk, their food, 203. Domestic +looms of. Manufactures of. Custom of, 204. Mode of living. Extempore +poetry of, 205. Manners of, 206. +_Beef_, mode of preserving for food in the desert, 349. +_Berebbers_, their contest with the emperor, 308. Their territory +and language, 327. Names of their clans or tribes, 124. Specimen of +their language, 367. +_Bernou_, etymology of, 449. +_Bism illak, and El Ham'd lillah_, signification of, 231. +_Bonaparte_, his system respecting Africa, 229. +_Bouska_, exhibition of that monstrous serpent, 451. +_Brimstone_ mines, 331. +_British_ public, address to, 253. +_Buff_, Dr. his medical success at Marocco, 396. He is recommended +to his majesty George the Third, and his majesty is requested, by +the emperor, to return him to Gibraltar, to reside there as the +emperor's physician, 397. +_Buhellessa_, the pretender, described, 287. He is an adept in the +occult sciences, 288. He marches with 22,000 men to attack Delemy's +castle, 289. He is vanquished and beheaded, 290. His army dispersed, +his head and feet sent to the Prince Muley Abdsalam, at Santa Cruz, +290. The prince rewards the man who killed the usurper: the author +visits the field of battle, which resembled the plains of Waterloo, 291. +_Buregreg_ river, 113. +_Burkhardt_, anticipation respecting, 449. +_Butellise_, or night-blindness, described, 332. +--------, or nyctalopia, an ophthalmia that affects our seamen in +the Mediterranean, 433. +_Butter_, melted, food in the desert, 6. + +C. + +_Camel_, the ship of the desert, 247. +_Caffer_, or Khaffer, signification of, 345. +_Cairo_, derivation of the name, 326. +_Canary_ language resembles the shelluh of Atlas, 381. +_Caravans_ accumulate as they proceed to the confines of Sahara, 4. +_Cape_ of Good Hope, how to preserve, and to improve its produce, + 339, 340. +_Cape de Verd_, compared to Ceuta, 229. +_Ceuta_, preparation for the siege of, by the emperor Muley +Yezzid, 403. +_Christians_, harmony among, necessary to precede the conversion +of Africa, 131. +_Christian_ religion, how to propagate it in Africa, 224. +--------, impediments to its propagation, 225. +--------, the influence of its principles in Africa, 227. +_Civilisation_ of Africa, the necessary result of commerce, and the +only plan by which an expectation of the conversion of the natives +to Christianity can possibly be indulged, 263. +----------, of Africa, through commerce, the only effectual means of +abolishing the slave trade, 270. +_Civil_ war prevalent in West and in South Barbary, 279. +_Characteristic_ trait of Muhamedans, 308. +_Christians_, ordered by the emperor, on pain of death, to live +peaceably with one another, 520. +_Christ_ acknowledged by muselmen, 240. +_Circumcision_, when performed among Muhamedans, 345. +_Cobas_ described, 272. +_Colonial_ produce, consequences of the cultivation of, in Senegal +by the French, 228. +_Commercial_ intercourse with Africa favourable to the propagation +of Christianity, 227. +----------, Recommended on a large scale, 249. 251. 259. +_Commercial_ adventurer in Africa more likely to succeed than a +scientific one, 259. +_Commerce_, the key of Africa, 428. +_Communication_ with Africa to be effected by the medium of +commerce, 493. +_Connubial_ customs, 313. +_Copper_ mines, 331. +_Corn_, abundant at Dar el Beida and at Fedalla, 110. + Abundance of, in West Barbary, 208. 340. +_Couriers_, confidence reposed in them, 405. +_Coffee_ of Timbuctoo, 279. +_Consuls_ of the European powers, their residence, 130. +_Congo_, Africans of, how converted to the Christian faith, 442. +_Continental_ markets of Europe, contemplation how they will be +supplied with colonial produce, 229. +_Cuscusoe_, or more properly Kuskasoe, an excellent food, mode of +preparing it, 97. +_Customs_, Muhamedan, 230. +_Cuba_, slave-trade and produce of, increased, 270. +_Customs_ of the shelluhs of Idaultit, and laws of, remarkable, 313. +_Customs_, ceremonies at funerals, 465. + +D. + +_Dances_ of the Arabs described, music of, 140. 344. +_Dates_ abundant at Tafilelt, 80. +_Dar el Beida_, a corn country, 110. +_Dead_, bodies of the, never interred in towns or in the mosques, 272. + Ceremony of interment, 273. +_Deism_, 325. +_Deef Allah_, what, 341. +_Decay_ of science and the arts among the Arabs, 352. +_Delel_, i.e. auctioneer of slaves at Marocco, 95. +_Deleim_, woled Arabs, 138. +_Decked_ vessels in the interior of Africa, 449. +_Delemy_, sheik of the Deleim Arabs, 138. + Invites the author and his companion, Signor Andrea de Christo, + to pass the night at a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, 139. + Garden of, described, 147. + Renown of, 148. + A main pillar to the throne of Marocco, 148. + Receives an exhortation from the prince Abdsalam to give battle + to the usurper Buhellessa, 288. + Dextrous in the management of a horse, 289. +_Desert_, rate of travelling through, 470. +_Dews_ of the night, how they secure themselves against, + when sleeping, 154. +_Deef Allah_, custom of uttering, 233. +_Dimenet_, in the Atlas, attacked by the emperor, 305. +_Difference_ between the oriental and occidental Arabic alphabets, 351. +_Djinawa_, definition of the name, 507. +_Distances_ from port to port, along the coast, calculated, 132. +_Discovery_ of Africa, plan for, 200. +_Disgrace_ of inhospitality, 240. +_Doctors_, itinerant, their apparatus, 242. +_Douars_, or villages of tents, described, 328. +_Draha_, province of, 2. + Hire of camels from Tafilelt to, 2. + Dates, the names of the different species, 3. + Plantations of, 3. + Inhabitants of nearly black, 2. + Character of them, 2. 7. +_Drahim_, what, 3. +_Driss Zerone Muley_, renowned sanctuary of, 118. + Author's hospitable reception there, and admission to the + adytum, 119. +_Duplicity_ of the Africans exemplified, 293. 314. + +E. + +_East_ India trade, our, how likely to be affected by French +colonisation, in Senegal, 229. +_Ebekoaits_, or Ait Ebeko, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Effah el_, exhibition of that venomous serpent, 453. +_Elephants_, 8. +_Elegant_ females, 142. +_Emperor_ admits an ambassador without prostration, and why, 282. +--------, Yezzid is wounded, and dies, 285. + His body exhumated, 286. + Compared to his majesty George the Fourth, 287. +_Emperor_, anecdote of one, 307. + His contest with the Berebbers, 308. + Letter from him to his bashaw of Suse respecting English seamen + wrecked on the western coast of Africa, 364. + Titles of H.I.M., 382. + Style of addressing him, 382. +_Emperor's_ letters, 384, 387, 392, 394, 395, 398, 402, 403, 405. +----, plan of reconciling catholics with protestants, 520. +----, table, simplicity of the furniture of, 96. +----, audience of business of the, 98. + Audience of leave in the garden of the Nile, 98. +_Embassy_, British, to Marocco, result of, 128. +_Encroachments_ of the French anticipated on our colonial arkets, 230. +_Encyclopedia_ Britannica, misapplication of an anachronism, 442. + The editor of has adopted the author's opinion respecting + the course of the Niger, 447. +_Epistolary_ correspondence, 382. +_Epistolary_ diction used by Muhamedans, 404. +_Equity_, case of, 312. +_Esshume_, See _Shume_. +_Euphorbium_ plant, 74. +_European_ merchants at Mogador in danger of being decollated + by order of the emperor, on a charge of high-treason, 284. + +F. + +_Fas_, bankrupts, how treated at, 16. + Is the metropolis of the north, 87. + Talb Cadus, 87. +----, gold thread manufactured at, of a superior quality, 126. + Manufactures, various of, 126. +----, houses of the merchants of, described, and gardens at, 275. + Library at, 324. +_Fakeers_, or muselmen-saints excite hostility between Christians + and Muhamedans, 267. +_Fedalla_, corn country, 110. +_Fig-trees_, very large, 82. +_Food_, 316. + Food of the desert, 349. +----, of the Arabs similar to that used in the days of Abraham, 243. +_Fourban_, Comte de, anecdote of, 112, 113. +_Fragments_, notes, and anecdotes, 276. +_French_ army, landing of, in Egypt, 100. +_Fruits_ of all kinds abundant at Salee and Rabat, 114, 125. +_Fruga_, town of, 76, 78. + +G. + +_Game_, plentiful. Not sold in the public market. Custom + on shooting it, 338. + Strangled, what game so called, 338. +_Garrison_ of Tangier salutes the ambassador, 127. +_Garb el_, what, so called, 2. +_Garden_, imperial, the merchants encamped at Marocco in, 88. + Names and produce of, 81. +_Geography_ of Africa, on the, 474. +_George_ IV. compared to the Emperor Muley Yezzid, 287. +----, a patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Genoa_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Girwan ait_, or Girwanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Gold dust_, gold bars, wrought gold, 67. +----, and bars, consignment of, to Fas from Timbuctoo, 347. +_Gold thread_, superior manufactory of, at Fas, 215. +----, of a superior quality, manufactured at Fas, 126. +_Government_, offer to it, to discover the remedy for nyctalopia, 335. +_Great Britain_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Grored el_, or sandy desert of Mogodor, 83. +_Gum_ Sudan, 67. + Gum Barbary, 67. + Gum Euphorbium, 74. + Gum sandrac. Gum ammoniac, 67. +----, called in England, Turkey gum Arabic, 345. +_Gun-barrels_, manufacture of, 331. +_Gutta serena_, probable remedy for the cure of, 335, 336. +Galvanism, beneficial in, 336. + +H. + +_Hawking_, and hunting the boar, sports followed by princes, 338. +_Hassa el_, described, 242. +_Heirie_, Jackson's account of, confirmed by Colonel Fitzclarence, 489. +_Hel shual_, and Hel elkilleb, what, 198. + Hel ferdie, what, 200. +_Hemeralopia_, or night-blindness described, 332. +_Henna_, an herb with which the Arabian, Moorish, Shelluh, Berebber, + and Jewish women dye their feet, hands, and hair, and why, 512. +_Hire_ of camels from Akka to Santa Cruz, 346. +_Hogan's_ embassy to the emperor of Marocco, from queen Elizabeth, 489. +_Honey_ of Haha, 153. +_Hospitality_ of the Arabs, cultivators of west and south + Barbary, 131. 239. +----------, laws of, 340. Disinterested hospitality shown to the + author, 342. Inviolability of the laws of, among the Bedouin + Arabs, 343. +_Howara_, an Arab clan, take possession of Assouan in Egypt, 74. +-------, Arabs, hunting the boar with. They took the city + of Assouan in Egypt, about four centuries ago, 245. +_Houses_ at Marocco and elsewhere described, 274. +_Housa_, travelling there safe, 37. Great traffic on the Nile of +Sudan. Niles, how denominated, 39. Description of the country +adjacent to, 40. Situation and size of the palace of, and +description of the city of, 41. Government of; administration of +justice at, 42. Landed property, 43. Revenues of; army, 44. Trade, +45. Climate, zoology, diseases, religion, 48. Persons; dress, 49. +Buildings; manners, 50. Gold, 51. Limits of the Empire of; pottery; +Timbuctoo tributary to it, 53. Small-pox, inoculation for, 54. +_Hutton_, Catherine, her observations on an intercourse with + Africa, 264. +_Hulacu_, the Tartar, conqueror of the east. His letter to the +sultan of Aleppo, 399. +_Hypotheses_, various, respecting the Niger, 447. + +I. + +_Jackson's_ report corroborated, 467. +_Idautenan_, independence of, 147. Superior grapes of, 147. + The country described, 147. +_Idiaugomoron_, 151. +_Idaultit_, customs of, 313. +_Jedrie_, the African name for the small-pox in horses, mules, + asses, and oxen, 337. +_Jelabia,_ garment so called, described, 200. +_Jerf el suffer_, the yellow cliff, 109. +_Jew_, great present made by one for the privilege of wearing + the European costume, 297. +_Jews_, a distinct race from the Africans, rendered so from + their particular laws and customs, &c. 230. +------, funeral cry of, 464. Funeral ceremonies of, 235. +------, massacre of, at Algiers, 283. How estimated in the empire + of Marocco, 328. +_Jinnie_, manufacture of gold filligrane at, 126. +_Impediments_ to our knowledge of Africa. What they are, 266. +_Inactivity_, or want of vigilance severely reprehensible in the + officers of the Marocco government, 203. +_Incorrect_ orthography of African names, 468. +_Indigo_ plant, 74. +_Interest_ of money, 237. +_Intercourse_, commercial, with Africa, recommended to be adopted + on a grand national scale, 249. 263. +_Interest_ of the Arabs of Sahara; how it would be united with a + colony on the coast, 248. +_Information_ from Africans respecting Africa, not contemptible, 434. +_Insolvency_ laws, 343. 397. +_Intoxication_, various modes of, 329. +_Invoice_ from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, 345. Ditto from ditto to + Fas, 347. +_Invasion_ of the country by Christians, a tradition of, 225. +_Invocation_ for the author's welfare made by the Fakeers of the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, 119. +----------, for the welfare of the British embassy. +_Journey_, in disguise, at a critical period, 135. +_Journies_, viz. from Mogodor to Rabat; to Mequinas; to the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone; and to the ruins of Pharaoh; + through the country of Amorites to L'Araich and Tangier, 105. +_Irrigation_, wheel for, 13. +_Iron_ mines, 331. +_Isa_ Seedy ben, fascinators of serpents, 455. +_Isawie_ (fascinators of serpents) their performance, 453. +_Justice_, moral, 306. + +K. + +_Kaaba_, Muhamed's mausoleum, so called, 273. +_Kadder Khan_, king of Turkostan, a great support to science, 352. +_Kaffer_, the application of this term, 510. +------, (or Caffre) its signification, 267. 345. +_Kassar Kabeer el_, a beautiful country, 124. +_Kereb_, what, 5. +_Key_ of Africa is commerce, 428. +_Keyma_, its definition, 307. +_Khalif Delemys_, noble conduct to the prince Abdsalsm, 288. +_Kibla_, i. e. the tomb of Muhamed, 9. +_Kiffen_, signification of, 273. +_King_ George IV. compared to the late emperor of Marocco, Muley + Yezzid, 287. A patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Kitiwa ait_, or Kituvites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Koba_, or coba, 88. +_Koran_, called the beloved book. Etymology of the word, 318. + Incorrectly called the Alcoran, l'Alcoran, or il Alcorano, 351. + Written in good language, 353. + +L. + +_L'ad_ of the Arabs described, 289. +_Language_, etiquette of, at the court of Marocco, 315. +_Languages_ of Africa, 355. +_L'Araich_, forest of. Ferry of, 125. +_Laws_ of insolvency, 343. +_Lead_ mines, 331. Lead-ore mines, 331. +_Leather_ superior manufactory of, at Mequinas and Marocco, 217. + Articles used in the manufacture of leather, 218. +_Leghorn_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Leper's_ town or village near Marocco, 90. Mendicant lepers, 91. +_Library_ at Fas, 324. +_Lions_, country abounding in. Mode of destroying them. Preservation + against, 115. +_Liquorice_ root, abundant in Suse, 74. +_Locusts_, their incredible devastation described, 221. Mode of +collecting them, 222. Used as food; method of preparing them; much +esteemed as food, 222. Remarkable instance of these insects having +devoured every blade of grass south of the river Elkos, but not +north of that river, 223. +_Love_, Arabian definition of, 363. +_Loyalty_ of the sheiks of Suse, 288. Of Muhamedans, 326. +_Ludaia_ are not Ludama, 507. +_Lybia_ palus and sea of Sudan synonymous, 448. + +M. + +_Majesty_, His, George IV. patron of science and the arts, 429. + Compared to the late emperor Yezzid, 287. +_Mandinga_ language compared with the Arabic, 373. +_Manufactures_ of Fas; superior manufacture of gold-thread there, 214. +_Marabets_, what, 511. +_Marabet_, punishment of one, 524. +_Market_ called Soke Elkhummes, 94. +_Marocco_, emperor's march to, 73. Country abundant in +corn of a superior quality, 78. Reception at salutations +of the Moors, 78. Gate called Beb el Lushoir; its situation, +78. Garden of the Nile, an imperial garden, 79. +Tafilelt rose flourishes at Marocco; its powerful perfume; +otto of roses, 79. Roses; various flowers abundant; +Persian wheel in general use throughout the country, 82. +Divisions of the empire of, 86. The summer residence +of the emperor, 86. The metropolis of the south, 87. +Town or village of lepers at, 90. Policy of concealing +the appearance of wealth at, 95, Furniture of houses at, +95. Customs at, 95. All trades carried on at, 98. +--------, etiquete of the court of, 310, Emperor dispenses + with, 311. +_Marseilles_, its commerce indirectly with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Massacre_ of the Jews at Algiers, 283. +_Matamores_, what, 14. 195. +_Matra_, J.M., his excellency the British ambassador, treated + by the emperor like a prince, 128. +--------, his intelligence respecting vaccine pus, 337. +_Mauritannick_ writing, what, 351. +_Mazagan_, 109. Country of, and inhabitants described, 109. +_Mekka_ caravan, i. 4. +_Mendicant_ lepers, their exclamation, 91. +_Mensoria el_, 110. +_Mequinas_, city of the court-town; travelling, mode of; 88. + Imperial palace at, 117. Beauty of the ladies of, 118. +--------, superior leather and shoes made at, 98. +_Merchandize_, consignment of, from Timbuctoo to Fas, 348. +----------, the various, the produce of Sudan, 256. +_Messa_, visit to the port of, 145. Gold and silver mines of, 146. +_Minister's_ house at Marocco, a noble one, 90. +--------, suggestions recommended to their attention, 230. +_Mitfere_, or cistern, magnificent, at Mazagan, 109. +_Mitferes_, what, 90. Expediency of, 210. +--------, described, magazines for grain, 339. Custom observed when + opened, 339. +_Mogodor_, duties at, doubled, 74. Merchants of, present themselves + to the emperor, 87. +--------, duties at, reduced to the old standard through the + influence of Muley Abd el Melk ben Dris, 128. +--------, merchants in danger of being beheaded, 284. +_Monopodia_ of the ancients compared to a Moorish table, 281. +_Months_, or moons, Muhamedan, their names, 371. +_Money_, interest of, 237. +_Moors_, 1. +---------, their language and residence, 327. +_Moorish grace_ at meals, 96. +----------customs, 281. +_Morbeya_, river of, divides the northern from the southern division + of the empire, 86. +_'Msharrah Rummellah_, plains of, 124. + Described, 195. +_'Mtasseb_, what, 126. +_Muden_, what, 111. +_Muhamedan princes_, treaties with, 283. +--------------loyalty, 326. +--------------, their claims to hospitality, 341. +--------------customs, 349. +_Mules_, not used in the desert, 5. +_Muley_ Abdsalam's domain in the oasis of Ammon, 280. +--------Yezzid, the emperor, compared to his Majesty, George IV., 287. +---------Abdrahaman, anecdote of, 322. +---------Ismael, anecdote of, 323. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to captain Kirke at + Tangier, ambassador from Charles II,, dated A.D. 1682. 384. +---------Ismael, his letter to sir Cloudesly Shovel at Sale, 387. + Sir Cloudesly's answer, 389. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to queen Anne, 392. +---------Yezzid, emperor of Marocco, his letter to the Dutch + consul, 402. +---------Ismael's, emperor, gold coins at Timbuctoo, 522. +---------Hamed, son of Muley Moluck, an account of his expedition + to Timbuctoo, &c. 519. +---------Sidan, loses 3000 Arabic books, 520. + Muley El Arsheed, his expedition to Timbuctoo, 521. + Muley Hamed Dehebby, commonly called Deiby, his expedition + to Timbuctoo, 523. +_Mungo Park_ at Timbuctoo, 319. +_Murder_, punishment for, 343. +_Mushoir_, or place of audience, 89. +_Music_, and Arab dance, 141. + +N. + +_Nasari_, the application of the term, 510. +_Nassar_, Abdrahaman Ben, the bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Nations_, the respective costumes of, enjoined, 296. +_Negro_ languages, thirty-three different ones spoken, 370. +_Negroes_, opinion respecting, 466. Mental degradation of, + imputable, in some measure, to the cruel treatment of + them in the West India islands, 466. +_Neel_, a name applied to two rivers in Africa only, 507. +_Nile_, at Kabra, its width, 471. +----, the correct orthography in English is Neel, 79. +_Niger_, contemplated result of the discovery of its course and + termination, 99. Opinion concerning its course, 103. +_Nile el Kabeer_, Nile Assudan, synonymous with Niger, 201. +----, or Nile of Sudan, discharges itself in a lake, 449. +------, and the Nile, 515. Theory respecting, 515. The author's + opinion of this river never varied, 516. +------, or Neel el Abeed, discharges itself into the Mediterranean + sea at the Delta, in Egypt, 518. +_Nile_, this word is improperly spelled, 507. +_Niles_, anticipation of the confirmation of their junction, 434. +_Nile_ Abid, or Neel el Abeed, error respecting its situation, 435. +_Niles_, junction of, where supposed to take place, 444. Not + doubted in Africa, but supported by the general testimony + of the natives, 445. +_Nile_, the word applied only to two rivers in Africa, 447. +_Nishki_, manner of writing, 350. Synonymous with the Kufie. +_North_ African, or Sudan Company, plan for one, 251. +_Nyctalopia_, or night-blindness, 332. +----------, description of, and remedy, 432. Offer to discover the + remedy, 432. +----------, an ophthalmia, that affects our seamen in the + Mediterranean, 433. Offer to discover the remedy for to + government, 433. + +O. + +_Oasis_, western, 280. +_Oil_ of olives, 67. Oil organic, 91. +_Olive_ plantations of Ras el Wed, 77. +_Ophthalmia_, disorders at Marocco prevail among the Jews, 92. +_Opinions_ of the Africans respecting Jews, Christians, and + themselves, 315. +_Oranges_ of Rabat, superior in quality, and low in price, 114. +_Oranges_, 75. + Orange-trees, very large, 82. +_Ostrich's_ feathers, 67. +_Ostriches_ presented by the Emperor Muley Ismael to Queen Anne, 593. + +P. + +_Palace_, imperial, at Tafileet, magnificent, 80. +_Palaces_ described, 274. + Architecture of, 274. +_Partridges_, mode of hunting among the Arabs, 107. +_Park_, Mungo, at Timbuctoo, 319. +----, his arrival at Timbuctoo confirmed, 470. +----, the author's translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of that traveller's death, 409. + Mr. Abraham Saleme's translation of the same document, 413. +_Persian_, or Arabian wheel described, mode of irrigation, 147. +_Pharaoh_, ruins of, 80. 121. +_Philanthropists_ dig wells for public accommodation, 150. +_Physicians_ fly at the approach of the plague, 165. +_Piracy_, if the slave-trade were made piracy it would not + abolish the traffic, 270. +_Plague_, fragments respecting, 156. + Progress of, 157. + Decrease, 161. + The plague political, 164. + Emperor's minister attacked by it, writes to the British consul + for advice, 165. +----, supposed origin of, 166. + The author an eye-witness of it, and visited the infected, 167. + Progress of, 167. + Remarkable instance of a village in the neighbourhood of + Mogador being free from the epidemy thirty-four days + after it appeared at Mogador, although the communication + was open between the two places, 168. + Haha, destruction in, by the plague, 169. + Peculiarities of, 169. + Destruction of the plague in Suse, 169. + General depopulation caused by it, 170. + Consequences of, on the survivors, 171. + Gradations in society overturned by the plague, 171. + Emigrations from Sahara consequent to the plague, 172. + Symptoms, various of, 173. + Olive oil, external application of, infallible, supposed origin + of, 174. + Superstitious opinion respecting the plague, 175. + Author's precaution against, 177. + Fear, its effect in communicating the infection, 178. + Remedies used, 178. + How caught, 179. Plague cases of, 180. +_Plague_, avoided, by adhering to the principle of avoiding +personal contact and inhalation, 189. Olive oil, infallible +remedy for, 189. +------, 419. Remedy for, 423. +_Plough_, primitive, used by the Arabs, 511. +_Pomegranates_, 75. +_Policy_ of the court of Marocco, 211, 212, 280. +------, adopted by the emperor to secure the allegiance of + the Berebbers, 306. +------, of West Barbary, 320. +_Poculum amiciti_, goblet compared to, 232. +_Political_ economy of the emperor, in not going to war with + Algiers, 283. +--------, deception, 309, 314. +_Portugal_, sovereign of, his zeal in converting the Africans to + the Christian doctrine, 443. +_Portuguese_ penetrated far into West Barbary, 324. +_Portfolio_, monthly miscellany, observations on, 464. +_Precision_, unfavourable to truth, according to Mungo Park's + annotator, 446. +_Present_ to the emperor, etiquette of delivering it, presentation + to, 89. +------, received from the emperor, 98. +_Prince_, Muley Teib, conduct of, to Dr. Bell. Satisfied with + the doctor's medicines, 197. +_Property_, agricultural division of, 330. +_Prognosticated_ prosperity from the prayers of benediction of + the marabats or fakeers of the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone. +_Prostration_ practised at the court of Marocco, 281. +_Protection_ among the Arabs a sacred duty when claimed, 343. +_Punishment_ for murder, 343. +_Pyramidical_ basis on which is founded the intelligence in + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c., 451. + +Q. + +_Quarterly_ journal, of literature, science, and the arts, + error of, 435, 438. +_Queen_ Elizabeth, embassy to the emperor of Marocco, 494. + +R. + +_Rabat_, arrival at, 110. Town described. Aqueduct. Mausoleum +of the Sultan Muhamed at, described. Battery + of, bomb-proof. Bastions. Roman spring at. Old Roman + town of Sheila at, described. Old Roman coins, 111. + Mosques, tower of Hassan, similar to one at Timbuctoo, + &c. described, 112. +_Rabat_ and Salee, abundant countries, 113. +_Religions_, of all kinds, tolerated at Timbuctoo. +_Repast_, or dinner, sent by the prince Muley Teib, 192. +_Retaliation_ for murder, an incumbent duty on tha individuals + of a family, 295. +_Revenge_ of the Shelluhs, described, 152. +--------, of the Shelluhs for murder rigidly pursued, 291. +_Richardson_, incorrect in calling the Arabic guttural letter, + _grain_, ghain, 492. +_Richardson's_ Arabic grammar, some errors in, 351. +_Riches_ of the Arabs, in what it consists, 247. +_Rivers_, in sandy districts, change their courses, 440. +_Robbery_, singular mode of, 116. +_Rontgen_, African traveller, death of, 425. + +S. + +_Santa Cruz_, the port of, delivered to the Dutch, 403. +--------, See _Agadeer_. +-------, or Agadeer, the key to Sudan, 268. +-------, invoice from Timbuctoo to, 345. +------- opened to Dutch commerce by the author, 436. +_Sanctuary_ of Muley Dris Zerone, 80. +_Saffy_, its road for shipping described, 108. + Situation and description of, 108. +_Sahara_, north part described, no water, 4. + South part described, 7. + Water carried in goat-skins, 5. + Sheiks of, independent, +--------, Arabs of, prefer sleeping in the open air, 155. +_Salee_, dungeon of, for Christian captives, 114. +------, and Rabat, the adjacent country productive, 113. +_Salutations_, peculiar character of their, 235. +_Saneet Urtemma_, a dangerous country, 110. +_Sand_ baths, 279. +_Science_ and the arts, decay of, among the Arabs, 352. +_Sebu_, river, situation of, 438. + +_Sejin Messa_, etymology of the name, vulgarly called + Segilmessa, 145. +_Senegambia_, 70. +_Serpents_, charmers of, described, 430. +--------, domestic, of Marocco, 213. +_Servants_ of the emperor, policy of, 280. + +_Shegar_, signification of, and misinterpretation, 441. +_Sheh_, the Arabic name for worm-seed, 5. +------, the plant designated, 510. +_Shella_, an old Roman town, 112. +_Shelluh_, revenge of, described, 152. +------, repast, described. Patriarchal cakes of, 153. + Customs of, 154. 313. +------, language, specimen of, 366. +_Shelluhs_, revenge and retaliation, 291. +------, their territory described, 327. +_Sheshawa_, plains of, 82. + Mountains of, strata of oyster-shells at the top of, 82. + River of, 82. +_Shume el_, the hot wind of Sahara so denominated, 5. +_Shoemaker_, an honourable trade, 98. +_Shovel_, Sir Cloudesley, his letter to the emperor of Marocco. +_Sigen Messa_, face of that country, 81. +_Silver_ mines of Elala, 218. +------, mine, 331. +_Siwah_, language of, similar to the Shelluh, 370. +_Slavery_, state of, in Africa, 219. + Cannot be abolished but by commerce, 269. +_Slaves_, mode of selling them, 95. +_Slave_ trade, not to be abolished by any naval force however + formidable, 269. +_South_ Africa, policy of constructing mitferes there, 339. +How that colony might be improved in the value of its + produce, 340. +----------, colony of, policy and expediency of building + mitferes there, 339. + How to improve that colony, 340. +_Storks_, abundance of, at Azamore, 110. +_Style_ used in addressing the emperor, 383. +_Subterraneous_ hordes, propensity to, 238. +_Sudan_, gum of, 67. +------, trade with, 277. +------, company, plan for one, 251. +------, command of the commerce of, how to be obtained, 67. +------, produce of, 67. +_Sugar_, figurative of friendship, 234. +_Sulphur_ mines, 331. +_Sultan_ Muhamed's letter to the European consuls, 394. + To the governor of Mogodor, 405. +--------, Soliman's letter to his majesty George III., 395. +_Superstitious_ tradition, 460. +_Suse_, province of, inaccessible to an invading army from + the north, 76. +_Synonymous_ words in sound, 362. + +T. + +_Tabia_ walls, what, 2. Mode of building them. +_Tafilelt_, 1. A rendezvous for caravans; kassars of; hire of +camels from Fas to; a country of princes, 2. Market +at, 2. Palace, imperial, magnificent at, 80. Dates +abundant at, 80. Magnificent plantations and extensive +forests of, 81. Faith and honour of the natives proverbial; +robberies unknown there, 81. +_Talleyrand_, his favourite African scheme, 229. +_Talh-tree_ defined, 510. +_Tangier_ garrison, salute to the British ambassador on his + entry there, 127. +_Tas_, what it is, 231. +_Tatta_, a dept for camels, 248. +_Tendaraman_, venomous spider described, 429. +_Tensift_, river of, 108. +_Tildie_, repast, Arab, at; Portuguese tower at, 63. Cookery + of the Arabs at, 64. +_Timbuctoo_, situation of, and charge of travelling to, 7. +City of; river close to it, 8. Population of; extent of; +caravanseras of; slaves at, 10. Houses; government, 11. +Revenue of, 12. Moors pay no duty at, but negroes +do, 14. Subject to Housa, 14. Army of; subsidies; +administration of justice at; punishments, 15. Good +police of, 16. Insolvent debtors at; slaves entitled to +freedom at; property, succession to and distribution of; +rational treatment of slaves at; wills not written, 18. +Laws of inheritance; marriage; rape; adultery, 19. +Trade and articles sold at, 20. Manufactures, 23. Measures, +23. Husbandry, 24. Sowing season; provisions, 25. +Animals; birds, 26. Fish; prices of various articles, 27. +Costume, 28. Diversions, 31. Time, measurement of; +Religion, 32. Diseases, 33. Manners and customs, 34. +Neighbouring nations, 35. +--------, opportunity of opening a trade with, why declined, 145. +--------, how likely to be made tributary to Great +Britain, 249. Circuitous commerce of, explained, 256. +Direct and eligible route to, through Sahara from the +shores of the Atlantic Ocean, 257. +--------, value of merchandize at, 260. Immense profit +actually made in, 261. Immense quantities of gold +to be procured from Sudan, 261. Goods entering the +city at the gate of the desert pay no duty, 263. Timbuctoo +coffee, 279. Invoice from, 345. 347. Letter from, 346. 348. + +_Timbuctoo_, Mungo Park at, 319. +----------, warehouses of, contain the manufactures, of India + and Europe, 427. + Communication with, plan for opening, 428. +----------, intelligence respecting, whence derived, 436. +----------, cotton manufacture, made in the city of, interwoven + with silk, of a chequered pattern, deposited in the + British Museum, 437. + Situation of, in respect to the Neel el abeed, 439. + Under the sovereignty of a negro prince, 441. + Fish at, resembling salmon, 469. +--------, first expedition to and conquest of, 519. +--------, second expedition to, 521. +--------, third expedition to, 523. +_Titles_ of emperor, 382. +_Togreda_, ceremony of, how performed, 231. +_Tomie_, or Sebah Biure, port of; the author visits it by the + prince's request, 138. + Arab dance and festivity in the neighbourhood of, 141. + Music of, 140. +_Trade_ with Sudan, 277. +_Travellers_, solitary or scientific, little expectations from, + 258. +_Travelling_ in Barbary, 293. +_Treaties_ with Muhamedan princes, 283. +_Troglodyte_, 319. + +U. + +_Uffran_, a dept for camels, 248. +_Uly_ and Ualy, material difference between these two terms, 350. +_Unity_ among Christians a necessary prelude to the conversion + of Africa. The several sects of Christians should + unite, instead of being divided, as an expedient measure + necessary to precede the conversion of Africa, 129. +_Union_ of waters between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 447. + +V. + +_Vaccination_, intelligence transmitted from West Barbary + instrumental in the propagation of, 337. + 23,134 lives saved by vaccination, 338. +_Vasco de Gama's_ observations on intercourse with Africa, 258. +_Vincent_, Lord St. his message to the Emperor of Marocco, 459. +_Vines_, the grapes of which are of an extraordinary size, 74. + +W. + +_Water_ communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 443. + This opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornmann, 444. +------, communication between Cairo and Timbuctoo, the + opinion respecting, receives additional confirmation, 517. +------, melons at Salee and Rabat peculiarly sweet, 114. +------, carried through the Sahara in goat's skins. +_Wah el_, what, 6. +_Wahs_ of Sahara, how supplied with fish, 257. + Western oasis, 280. +_Wangara_, jewel from, 103. +_Wassenah_, or Massenah, conjecture why not known at + Ashantee, 491. +_Wed el fees_, river of, 82. +_Whedinoon_, a dept for camels. +_Wheat_, superior at Marocco, 95. +------, a superior kind or quality, 125. +_Wild_ myrtle grows in the Sahara, 6. +_Wine_ Company recommended, 212. +_Woled Aisah_, encampment of Arabs. Produce of that country, 109. +_Wool_, exportation of, granted by the emperor. +_Woladia el_, an eligible place for a naval dept, 108. +_Woolja_, not Woolga, 109. +_Woled Abbusebah_, a whole clan of Arabs, banished from the + plains near Marocco, and plundered, killed or dispersed, 318. +_Woolo_, king of Timbuctoo, 484. +_Wormseed_, 74. +_Wrecked ships_, 277. + How treated, 278. + Wrecked sailors, 279. +_Wyk_, Sir Pieter, Swedish consul, his courier sent to the + author, 127. + +Y. + +_Yezzid Muley_, gives the port of Santa Cruz to the Dutch, 436. +----------, emperor of Marocco, compared to his majesty + George the Fourth, 287. + His letter to the Dutch consul, 402. + His letter to the governor of Mogador, giving to the Dutch the + port of Santa Cruz, 402. + +Z. + +_Zealand_, New, customs of, compared to those of the Jews, 236. +_Zeal_ of Mohamedans not sufficient to convert the negro nations + of Africa, 442. +_Zeef_, what it is, 231. +_Zemurh ait's_, or Zemurhites, a kabyl of Berebbers, 115. +_Zion ait's_, or Zianites, a tribe, or kabyl of Berebbers, 124. +_Ziltanait_, or Ziltanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Zimurh_ shelluh, Berebbers of, their character, 284. + + + + +THE END. + + +Printed by A. and K. Spottiswoode, +Printers-Street, London. + + + + +_Works by the same Author_. + +An account of the EMPIRE OF MAROCCO and the DISTRICTS OF SUSE AND +TAFILELT, compiled from Miscellaneous Observations made during a +long residence in, and various Journies through, these Countries. + +TO WHICH IS ADDED, + +An Account of SHIPWRECKS ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA, and an +Account of Timbuctoo, the great Emporium of Central Africa; +illustrated with ACCURATE MAPS and a variety of highly finished +PLATES. Third edition. _Considerably enlarged with new and +interesting matter_. + +Sold by Cadell and Davies, London; and by W. Blackwood, Edinburgh. + + * * * * * + + +_Preparing for the press_. + + +A GRAMMAR of the ARABIC LANGUAGE. + +No accurate Grammar of the Arabic Language has ever yet issued from +the British Press!--It is extraordinary that the many professors of +_that bold and figurative language of the East_, have never yet +favoured the public with such a desirable work.--An attempt will now +be made, by the above author, to supply in England this deficiency +in Oriental Literature. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Africa, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + +***** This file should be named 22631-8.txt or 22631-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/6/3/22631/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Rnald Lvesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothque nationale de France + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa Territories in the Interior of Africa + +Author: Abd Salam Shabeeny + +Commentator: James Grey Jackson + +Release Date: September 16, 2007 [EBook #22631] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Rénald Lévesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + + +<br><br> + + +<h2>AN ACCOUNT</h2> + +<h4>OF</h4> + +<h1>TIMBUCTOO AND HOUSA,</h1> + +<h3>TERRITORIES IN THE INTERIOR OF<br> + +Africa,<br> + +By; EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY;</h3> + +<h4>WITH</h4> + +<h3><i>NOTES, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY.</i></h3> + +<h4>TO WHICH IS ADDED,</h4> + +<h3>LETTERS DESCRIPTIVE OF</h3> + +<h2>TRAVELS THROUGH WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY,</h2> + +<h3>AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN'S OF ATLAS;</h3> + +<h4>ALSO,</h4> + +<h3><i>FRAGMENTS, NOTES, AND ANECDOTES;</i></h3> + +<h3>SPECIMENS OF THE ARABIC EPISTOLARY STYLE,<br> +&c. &c.</h3> +<hr> + +<h5>"<i>L'Univers est une espèce de livre, dont on n'a lu que la première page,<br> quand on n'a vu que son pays.</i>" LE COSMOPOLITE.</h5> +<hr> + +<h2>By JAMES GREY JACKSON,</h2> + +<h4>RESIDENT UPWARDS OF SIXTEEN YEARS IN SOUTH AND WEST BARBARY, +IN A DIPLOMATIC AND IN A COMMERCIAL CAPACITY.</h4> +<hr> + +<p class="mid"><b><i>LONDON:</i></b><br> +PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN,<br> +PATERNOSTER-ROW.<br> +1820.</p> +<br> + +<h4>Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode,<br> +Printers Street, London.</h4> +<br> + +<h3>TO + +HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY</h3> + +<h2>GEORGE THE FOURTH,</h2> + +<h3><i>&c. &c. &c.</i><br><br> + +<i>THIS WORK</i><br> + +IS<br> + +WITH PERMISSION,<br> + +RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,<br> + +BY<br> + +HIS MAJESTY'S<br> + +MOST DUTIFUL SUBJECT<br> + +AND SERVANT,<br><br> + +JAMES GREY JACKSON.</h3><br><br> + +<h3>INTRODUCTION.</h3> +<hr class="short"> + +<p>The person who communicated the following +intelligence respecting Timbuctoo and Housa, +is a Muselman, and a native of Tetuan, whose +father and mother are personally known to +Mr. Lucas, the British Consul. His name is +Asseed El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny. His +account of himself is, that at the age of fourteen +years he accompanied his father to Timbuctoo, +from which town, after a residence of three +years, he proceeded to Housa; and after residing +at the latter two years, he returned to Timbuctoo, +where he continued seven years, and +then came back to Tetuan.</p> + +<p>Being now in the twenty-seventh year of his +age, he proceeded from Tetuan as a pilgrim +and merchant, with the caravan for Egypt to +Mecca and Medina, and on his return, established +himself as a merchant at Tetuan, his +native place, from whence he embarked on +board a vessel bound for Hamburgh, in order to +purchase linens and other merchandize that were +requisite for his commerce.</p> + +<p>On his return from Hamburgh in an English +vessel, he was captured, and carried prisoner to +Ostend, by a ship manned by Englishmen, but +under Russian colours, the captain of which +pretended that his Imperial mistress was at war +with all Muselmen. There he was released by +the good offices of the British consul, Sir John +Peters<a id="footnotetaga" name="footnotetaga"></a> +<a href="#footnotea"><sup class="sml">a</sup></a>, and embarked once more in the same +vessel, which, by the same mediation, was also +released; but as the captain either was or pretended +to be afraid of a second capture, El +Hage Abd Salam was sent ashore at Dover, and +is now<a id="footnotetagb" name="footnotetagb"></a> +<a href="#footnoteb"><sup class="sml">b</sup></a>, by the orders of government, to take +his passage on board a king's ship that will sail +in a few days.</p> + +<p>In the following communications, Mr. Beaufoy +proposed the questions, and Mr. Lucas was +the interpreter.</p> + +<p>Shabeeny was two years on his journey from +Tetuan to Mekka, before he returned to Fas. +He made some profit on his merchandise, which +consisted of haiks<a id="footnotetagc" name="footnotetagc"></a> +<a href="#footnotec"><sup class="sml">c</sup></a>, red caps, and slippers, +cochineal and saffron; the returns were, fine +Indian muslins<a id="footnotetagd" name="footnotetagd"></a> +<a href="#footnoted"><sup class="sml">d</sup></a> for turbans, raw silk, musk, +and <i>gebalia</i><a id="footnotetage" name="footnotetage"></a> +<a href="#footnotee"><sup class="sml">e</sup></a>, a fine perfume that resembles +black paste.</p> + +<p>He made a great profit by his traffic at Timbuctoo +and Housa; but, <i>he says</i>, money gained +among the Negroes<a id="footnotetagf" name="footnotetagf"></a> +<a href="#footnotef"><sup class="sml">f</sup></a> has not the blessing of +God on it, but vanishes away without benefit +to the owner; but, acquired in a journey to +Mecca, proves fortunate, and becomes a permanent +acquisition.</p> + +<p>On his return with his father from Mecca, +they settled at Tetuan, and often carried cattle, +poultry, &c. to Gibraltar; his father passed the +last fifteen years of his life at Gibraltar, and +died there about the year 1793. He was born +at Mequinas; his family is descended from the +tribe of Shabban<a id="footnotetagg" name="footnotetagg"></a> +<a href="#footnoteg"><sup class="sml">g</sup></a>, which possesses the country +between Santa Cruz and Wedinoon. They were +entitled to the office of pitching the Emperor's +tent, and attending his person. They can raise +40,000 men, and they were the first who accompanied +Muley Hamed Dehebby<a id="footnotetagh" name="footnotetagh"></a> +<a href="#footnoteh"><sup class="sml">h</sup></a> in his +march to Timbuctoo.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnotea" +name="footnotea"></a><b>Footnote a:</b><a href="#footnotetaga"> +(return) </a> Confirmed by Sir John Peters.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnoteb" +name="footnoteb"></a><b>Footnote b:</b><a href="#footnotetagb"> +(return) </a> In the year 1795.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnotec" +name="footnotec"></a><b>Footnote c:</b><a href="#footnotetagc"> +(return) </a> The haiks are light cotton, woollen, or silk garments, +about five feet wide and four yards long, manufactured at Fas, +as are also the red caps which are generally made of the finest +Tedla wool, which is equal to the Spanish, and is the produce +of the province of that name, (for the situation of which +see the map of the empire of Marocco, facing page 55.) +The slippers are also manufactured from leather made from +goat-skins, at Fas and at Mequinas. The cochineal is imported +from Spain, although the opuntia, or the tree that +nourishes the cochineal-fly, abounds in many of the provinces +of West Barbary, particularly in the province of Suse. +The saffron abounds in the Atlas mountains in Lower Suse, +and is used in most articles of food by the Muhamedans.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnoted" +name="footnoted"></a><b>Footnote d:</b><a href="#footnotetagd"> +(return) </a> Muls.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnotee" +name="footnotee"></a><b>Footnote e:</b><a href="#footnotetage"> +(return) </a> <i>Gebalia</i> resembles frankincense, or Gum Benjamin, and +is used for fumigations by the Africans.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnotef" +name="footnotef"></a><b>Footnote f:</b><a href="#footnotetagf"> +(return) </a> Being idolaters.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnoteg" +name="footnoteg"></a><b>Footnote g:</b><a href="#footnotetagg"> +(return) </a> Shâban is (probably) a tribe of the Howara Arabs, who +possess the beautiful plains and fine country situated between +the city of Terodant and the port of Santa Cruz. There is an +emigration of the Mograffra Arabs, who are in possession of +the country between Terodant and the port of Messa. The +encampments of an emigration of the Woled Abusebah +(vulgarly called, in the maps, <i>Labdessebas</i>) Arabs of Sahara, +occupy a considerable district between Tomie, on the coast, +and Terodant. The coast from Messa to Wedinoon is occupied +by a trading race of Arabs and Shelluhs, who have inter-married, +called <i>Ait Bamaran</i>. These people are very +anxious to have a port opened in their country, and some +sheiks among them have assured me, that there is a peninsula +on their coast conveniently situated for a port. <i>This circumstance +is well deserving the attention of the maritime and +commercial nations of the world.</i></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnoteh" +name="footnoteh"></a><b>Footnote h:</b><a href="#footnotetagh"> +(return) </a> The youngest son of the Emperor Muley Ismael conducted +the expedition here alluded to, about the year of +Christ 1727. For an account of which see the Appendix, +page 523.</blockquote> + +<p>He considers himself now as settled at +Tetuan, where he has a wife and children. +He left it about twelve months ago, with three +friends, to go to Hamburg (as before mentioned.) +They were confined forty-seven days +at Ostend, were taken the second day of their +voyage; the English captain put them ashore +at Dover against their inclination, and proceeded +to Gibraltar with their goods: this was +in December, 1789.</p> + +<p class="mid">THE CONTINENT.</p> + +<p>The continent of Africa, the discovery of +which has baffled the enterprise of Europe, (unlike +every other part of the habitable world,) +still remains, as it were, a sealed book, at least, +if the book has been opened, we have scarcely +got beyond the title-page.</p> + +<p>Great merit is due to the enterprise of travellers. +The good intention of the African +Association, in promoting scientific researches +in this continent, cannot (by the liberal) be +doubted. But something more than this is +necessary to embark <i>successfully</i> in this gigantic +undertaking. I never thought that the system +of solitary travellers would produce any beneficial +result. The plan of the expedition of +Major Peddie and Captain Tuckie was still +more objectionable than the solitary plan, and +I have reason to think, that no man possessing +any personal knowledge of Africa, ever entertained +hopes of the success of those expeditions. +Twenty years ago I declared it as <span class="sc">MY</span> decided +opinion, that the only way to obtain a knowledge +of this interesting continent, is through +the medium of commercial intercourse. The +more our experience of the successive failure of +our African expeditions advances, the more +strongly am I confirmed in this opinion. If +we are to succeed in this great enterprise, we +must step out of the beaten path--the road of +error, that leads to disappointment--the road +that has been so fatal to all our ill-concerted +enterprises; we must shake off the rust of precedent, +and strike into a new path altogether.</p> + +<p>Do we not lack that <i>spirit of union</i> so expedient +and necessary to all great enterprises? +Is not the public good sacrificed to self-aggrandisement +and individual interest.--Let +the African Institution unite its funds to +those of the African Association, and co-operate +with the efforts of that society! Let the +African Company also throw in their share of +intelligence. The separated and sometimes discordant +interests of all these societies, if united, +might effect much. The <i>united</i> efforts of such +societies would do more in a year towards the +civilization of Africa, and the abolition of slavery, +than they will do in ten, unconnected as they +now are. <i>Concordia parva res crescunt</i>.--When +each looks to particular interests, we cannot +expect the result to be the general good.</p> + +<p>It is probable that the magnificent enterprises +of the Portuguese and Spaniards, would, ere +this, have colonised and converted to Christianity, +all the eligible spots of idolatrous Africa, +if their attention to this grand object had not +been diverted by the discovery of America, and +their establishments in Brazil, Mexico, &c.</p> + +<p>I was established upwards of sixteen years in +West and South Barbary; territories that maintain +an uninterrupted intercourse with all those +countries that Major Houghton, Hornemann, +Park, Rontgen, Burckhardt, Ritchie, and others +have attempted to explore. I was diplomatic +agent to several maritime nations of Europe, +which familiarised me with all ranks of society +in those countries. I had a perfect knowledge +of the commercial and travelling language of +Africa, (the Arabic.) I corresponded <i>myself</i> +with the Emperors, Princes, and Bashaws in this +language; my commercial connections were <i>very</i> +extensive, amongst all the most respectable merchants +who traded with Timbuctoo and other +countries of Sudan. My residence at Agadeer, +or Santa Cruz, in Suse, afforded me eligible opportunities +of procuring information respecting +the trade with Sudan, and the interior of Africa. +A long residence in the country, and extensive +connections, enabled me to discriminate, and to +ascertain who were competent and who were +not competent to give me the information I +required. I had opportunities at my leisure of +investigating the motives that any might have +to deceive me; I had time and leisure also to +investigate their moral character, and to ascertain +the principles that regulated their respective +conduct. Possessed of all these sources of information, +how could I fail of procuring correct +and authentic intelligence of the interior of +Africa; yet my account of the two Niles has +been doubted by our fire-side critics, and the +desultory intelligence of other travellers, who certainly +did not possess those opportunities of procuring +information that I did, has been substituted: +but, notwithstanding this unaccountable +scepticism, my uncredited account of the connection +of the two Niles of Africa, continues +daily to receive additional confirmation from all +the African travellers themselves. And thus, +<span class="sc">Time +</span>, (to use the words of a <a id="footnotetagj" name="footnotetagj"></a> +<a href="#footnotej"><sup class="sml">j</sup></a>learned and most +intelligent writer), "which is more obscure in +its course than the Nile, and in its termination +than the Niger," is disclosing all these things: +so that I now begin to think that the before-mentioned +critics will not be able much longer +to maintain their theoretical hypothesis.<a id="footnotetagk" name="footnotetagk"></a> +<a href="#footnotek"><sup class="sml">k</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnotej" +name="footnotej"></a><b>Footnote j:</b><a href="#footnotetagj"> +(return) </a> Vide the Rev. C. C. Colton's Lacon, sect. 587. p. 260, 261.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnotek" +name="footnotek"></a><b>Footnote k:</b><a href="#footnotetagk"> +(return) </a> See various letters on Africa, in this work, p. 443.</blockquote> + +<p>The talents, the extraordinary prudence and +forbearance, the knowledge of the Arabic language, +and other essential qualifications in an +African traveller, which the ever-to-be-lamented +Burckhardt so eminently possessed, gave me the +greatest hopes of his success in his arduous +enterprise, until I discovered, when reading +his Travels, that he was <i>poor and despised, though +a Muselman</i>.</p> + +<p>There is too much reason to apprehend that he +was suspected, if not discovered by the Muselmen, +or he would not have been <i>secluded from +their meals</i> and society: the Muselmen never +(<i>sherik taam</i>) eat or divide food with those they +suspect of deception, nor do they ever <i>refuse to +partake of food with a Muselman</i>, unless they do +suspect him of treachery or deception; this +principle prevails so universally among them, that +artful and designing people have practised as +many deceptions on the Bedouin under the cloak +of hospitality, as are practised in Christian +countries under the cloak of religion! I cannot +but suspect, therefore, from the circumstance +before recited, that the Muselmism of Burckhardt +was seriously suspected, and that his companions +only waited a convenient opportunity +in the Sahara for executing their revenge on him +for the deception.</p> + +<p>The very favourable reception that my account +of Marocco met with from the British +public; the many things therein stated, which +are daily gaining confirmation, although they +were doubted at the period of their publication, +have contributed in no small degree, to the production +of the following sheets, in which I can +conscientiously declare, that truth has been my +guide; I have never sacrificed it to ambition, +vanity, avarice, or any other passion.</p> + +<p>The learned, I am flattered to see, are now +beginning to adopt my orthography of African +names; they have lately adopted <i>Timbuctoo</i> for +the old and barbarous orthography of <i>Timbuctoo</i>; +they have, however, been upwards of ten years +about it. In ten years more, I anticipate that +<i>Fez</i> will be changed into <i>Fas</i>, and <i>Morocco</i> into +<i>Marocco</i>, for this plain and uncontrovertible +reason,--because they are so spelled in the +original language of the countries, of which +they are the chief cities. Since the publication +of my account of Marocco, I have seen +Arabic words spelled various ways by the +same author (I have committed the same error +myself); but in the following work I have +adopted a plan to correct this prevailing error +in Oriental orthography, which, I think, ought +to be followed by every Oriental scholar, as the +only correct way of transcribing them in English; +viz. by writing them exactly according to the +original Arabic orthography, substituting <i>gr</i> (not +<i>gh</i>, as Richardson directs) for the Arabic guttural +[غ Arabic] grain, and <i>kh</i> for the guttural <i>k</i> or +[خ Arabic]--</p> + +<p><i>Note.</i> We should be careful not to copy the +orthography of Oriental or African names from +the French, which has too often been done, although +their pronunciation of European letters +is very dissimilar from our own.</p> +<br><br> + +<h3>CONTENTS.</h3> + +<p><i>An Account of a Journey from Fas to Timbuctoo, performed +about the year 1787, by El Hage Abd Salam +Shabeeny,</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p1">Page 1</a></span> </p> + +<p>Route to Timbuctoo.--Situation of the City.--Population.--Inns +or Caravanseras, called Fondaks.--Houses.--Government.--Revenue.--Army.--Administration +of Justice.--Succession to Property.--Marriage.--Trade.--Manufactures.--Husbandry.--Provisions.--Animals.--Birds.--Fish.--Prices +of different Articles.--Dress.--Time.--Religion.--Diseases.--Manners +and Customs.--Neighbouring +Nations.</p> + +<p><i>Journey from Timbuctoo to Housa</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p37">37</a></span></p> + +<p>The River Neel or Nile.--Housa.--Government.--Administration +of Justice--Landed Property,--Revenues.--Army.--Trade.--Climate.--Zoology.--Diseases.--Religion.--Persons.--Dress. Buildings.--Manners.--Gold.--Limits +of the Empire.</p> + +<p><i>Letters, containing an Account of Journies through various +Parts of West and South Barbary, at different Periods, +personally performed by J.G. Jackson</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p55">55</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter I.</span> (To James Willis, Esq., late British Consul +for Senegambia.) On the Opening of the Port of Agadeer, +or Santa Cruz, in the Province of Suse; and of its Cession +by the Emperor Muley Yezzid to the Dutch<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p55"><i>ibid.</i></a></span> </p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter II.</span> (To the same.) The Author's Arrival at +Agadeer or Santa Cruz.--He opens the Port to European +Commerce.--His favourable Reception on +landing there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes +the degrading Custom that had been exacted of the +Christians, of descending from on Horseback, and entering +the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a Sanctuary +at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever +been considered Holy Ground, and none but Muhamedans +had ever before been permitted to enter the +Gates on Horseback<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p58">58</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter III.</span> (To the same.) The Author makes a +Commercial Road down the Mountain, to facilitate the +Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and Liberality of +the Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description +of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast +there.--Natural Strength of Santa Cruz, of the Town +of Agurem, and the Portuguese Spring and Tank +there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a Fort.--Eligibility +of the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a +Commercial Depot to supply the whole of the Interior +of North Africa with East India and European Manufactures.--Propensity +of the Natives to Commerce and +Industry, if Opportunity offered.<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p62">62</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter IV.</span> (To the same.) Command of the Commerce +of Sudan.<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p67">67</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter V.</span> From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p69">69</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter VI.</span> From the same to the same<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p71">71</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter VII.</span> (To James Willis, Esq.) Emperor's +March to Marocco.--Doubles the Customs' Duties +of Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abdelmelk, +with the Garrison and Merchants of Santa Cruz, ordered +to go to the Court at Marocco.--They cross +the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the Country +and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains +through which the Author passed.--Chasm in the +Mountain.--Security of Suse from Marocco, originating +in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas.--Extensive +Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait +Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco Plains.--Fine +Corn.--Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the +Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Prince +Abdelmelk's magnificent Apparel reprobated by the +Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz shut to the Commerce +of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Marocco.--The +Prince banished to the <i>Bled Shereef</i>, or +Country of Princes; viz. Tafilelt, of the Palace at +Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the Country.--Magnificent +Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith +and Integrity of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial +Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of Irrigation.--Attar of +Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (<i>Attar</i> being the +Word signifying a Distillation.).--State of Oister Shells +on the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between +Mogodor and Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas.--Description +of the Author's Reception on the Road +from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or +Sahara of Mogodor<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p73">73</a></span> </p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter VIII. +</span> From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p84">84</a></span></p> + +<p>Extract of a Letter from His Excellency J.M. +Matra, British Envoy to Marocco, &c. to Mr. Jackson<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p85">85</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter IX. +</span> (To James Willis, Esq.) Custom of +visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco.--Journey +of the Merchants thither on that Occasion.--No +one enters the Imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode +of travelling.--The Commercio.--Imperial +Gardens at Marocco.--Audience of the Sultan.--Amusements +at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of +Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia +at Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense +Height of the Atlas, East and South of Marocco.--Mode +of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of +Eating.--Trades or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience +of Business of the Sultan.--Present received +from the Sultan<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p86">86</a></span> </p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter X. +</span> From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p99">99</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter XI. +</span> From the same to the same<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p101">101</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter XII. +</span> From the same to the same<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p103">103</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter XIII. +</span> (To James Willis, Esq.) Journey from +Mogodor to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of +Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, to the +Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite +Country to L'Araich and Tangier.--Started from +Mogodor with Bel Hage as (<i>Tabuk</i>) Cook, and Deeb +as (<i>Mule Lukkerzana</i>) Tent-Master.--Exportation of +Wool granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated +by the Plague.--Arabs, their Mode of hunting +the Partridge.--Observations respecting the River +Tansift.--Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' Pass.--Description +of Saffy, and its Port or Road.--Woladia +calculated to make a safe harbour.--Growth of Tobacco.--Mazagan +described.--Azamor the Abode of +Storks.--Saneet Urtemma a dangerous Country.--Dar +El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described.--Mausoleum +of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of +Sheila, a Roman Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road +of Rabat.--Productive Country about Rabat.--Salee.--The +People inimical to Christians.--The +Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait +Zimurh, notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their +Country disturbed with Lions.--Arrival at +Mequinas.--Some Account of that City and its Imperial +Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely beautiful.--Arrival +at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris or Idris +Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception +there by the Fakeers of the Sanctuary.--Slept in the +Adytum.--Succour expected from the English in the +Event of an Invasion by Bonaparte.--Prostration and +Prayer of Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure +from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of Pharaoh near the +Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.--</p> + +<p>The Descendants of the Ancient Amorites.--Character +of these People.--Various Tribes of the Berebbers of +Atlas.--El Kassar Kabeer.--Its Environs, a beautiful +Country.--Forest of L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture +of Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as Imitations +of Amber.--Grand Entry of the British Ambassador +into Tangier.--Our Ignorance of African +Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces +of his Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p105">105</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XIV. (From His Excellency James M. +Matra to Mr. Jackson.) Respecting the Result of the +British Embassy to the Emperor of Marocco at Old +Fas<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p128">128</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XV. (To James Willis, Esq.) European +Society at Tangier.--Sects and Divisions among +Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the +Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt upon +Christians themselves.--The Cause of it.--The Conversion +of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation +of the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians +themselves<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p129">129</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XVI. (To the same.) Diary of a Journey +from Tangier to Mogodor, showing the Distances from +Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic Ocean; +useful to Persons travelling in that Country<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p132">132</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XVII. (To the same.) An Account of a +Journey from Mogodor to Saffy, during a Civil War, +in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not pass, +owing to the Warfare between the two Provinces of +Haha and Shedma.--Stratagem adopted by the Author +to prevent Detection.--Danger of being discovered.--Satisfaction +expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, +Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, +and Compliments received from him on his having accomplished +this perilous Journey<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p134">134</a></span> </p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XVIII. (To the same.) Journey to the +Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy in Shtuka.--Encamped +in his Garden.--Mode of living in +Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to +the Port of Tomie, in Suse.--Country infested with +Rats.--Situation of Tomie.--Entertainment at a +Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah.--Exertions +of Delemy to entertain his guests.--Arabian Dance +and Music.--Manner and Style of Dancing.--Eulogium +of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners +of the latter.--Their personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire +of the Arabs to have a Commercial +Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince +respecting Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the +Growth of various Articles of Commerce.--Viceroy's +Offer to build a House, and the Duties.--Visit +to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold and Silver +Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons +and Grapes.--Mode of Irrigation.--Extraordinary +People from Sudan at Delemy's.--Elegant Sword.--Extensive +Plantations.--The Prince prepares to depart +for Tafilelt<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p137">137</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XIX. (To the same.) Journey from Santa +Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers ventured to pass, +owing to Civil War and Contention among the Kabyles.--Moorish +Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use +of Travellers.--Travelled with a trusty Guide without +Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or Incumbrances.--Nature +of the Warfare in the Land.--Bitter Effects of Revenge +and Retaliation on the happiness of Society.--Origin +of these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented +with Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal +Manner of living among the Shelluhs compared +to that of Abraham.--Aromatic Honey.--Ceremony +at Meals, and Mode of Eating.--Travelled +all Night, and slept in the open Air;--Method of +avoiding the Night-dew, as practised by the Natives.--Arrival +at Mogodor<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p150">150</a></span></p> + +<p><i>An Account of the Rise, Progress, and Decrease of the +Plague that ravaged West and South Barbary, in 1799, +faithfully extracted, from Letters written before and +during its Existence, by the House of James Jackson & +Co., or by James G. Jackson, at Mogodor, to their +Correspondents in Europe</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p156">156</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. +Jackson<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p163">163</a></span></p> + +<p>An Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which +depopulated West and South Barbary in 1799 and 1800, +to the Effects of which the Author was an eye-witness<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p166">166</a></span></p> + +<p>Cases of Plague<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p180">180</a></span></p> + +<p>Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed +last Year in West Barbary, which was imported from +Egypt; communicated by the Author to the Editor +of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and +the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great +Britain, No. 15, published October, 1819<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p186">186</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Journey from Tangier to Rabat, through the Plains of +Seboo, in Company with Doctor Bell and the Prince +Muley Teib and an Army of Cavalry</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p191">191</a></span></p> + +<p>Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. +Bell.--Description of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The +Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, an incomparably +fine and productive Country.--The Cavalry of +the Amorites;--their unique Observations on Dr. +Bell: their mean opinion of his Art, because he could +not cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on Rafts +of inflated Skins.--Spacious tent of Goat's Hair +erected for the Sheik, and appropriated to the Use of +the Prince.--Description of the magnificent Plains of +M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian Royalty.--Prodigious +Quantity of Corn grown in these Plains.--Matamores, +what they are.--Mode of Reaping.--</p> + +<p> The Prince presents the Doctor with a Horse, and + approves of his Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor + depart south-eastwardly, and the Author pursues his + Journey to Rabat and Mogodor<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p191">191</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Of the excavated Residences of the Inhabitants of Atlas: +the Acephali, Hel Shoual, and Hel el Kitteb</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p198">198</a></span></p> + +<p> The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the + present System of solitary Travellers; but by a grand + Plan, with a numerous Company; beginning with Commerce, + as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the Fore-runner + of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indispensable + to the Conversion of the native Negroes to + Christianity.</p> + +<p><i>Cautions to be used in Travelling</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p202">202</a></span></p> + +<p> Danger of Travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor + holds himself accountable for Thefts committed on + Travellers, whilst travelling between the rising and the + setting Sun.--Emigration of Arabs.--Patriarchal + Style of Living among the Arabs; Food, Clothing, + domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the + Arabs calculated by the Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian + Women are good Figures, and have + personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; poetical + Geniuses; Dancing and Amusements; Musical Instruments; + their Manners are courteous.</p> + +<p><i>Abundance of Corn produced in West Barbary</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p208">208</a></span></p> + +<p> Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw + of Duquella's Weekly Present of a Bar of + Gold.--Mitferes or Subterranneous Depositaries for + Corn.</p> + +<p><i>Domestic Serpents of Marocco</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p213">213</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Manufactures of Fas</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p214">214</a></span></p> + +<p> Superior Manufactory of Gold Thread.--Imitation + of precious Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in + Suse.--Silver-mine.</p> + +<p><i>On the State of Slavery in Muhamedan Africa</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p219">219</a></span>219</p> + +<p><i>The Plague of Locusts</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p221">221</a></span></p> + +<p> Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable + Instance of their destroying every Green + Herb on one Side of a River, and not on the other.</p> + +<p><i>On the Influence of the great Principle of Christianity on +the Moors</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p224">224</a></span></p> + +<p> Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes + that prevent it.--The Mode of promoting it is + through a friendly and commercial Intercourse with the + Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to attend to + the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French + colonizing Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby + depreciating the Value of our West-India Islands.</p> + +<p><i>Interest of Money</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p237">237</a></span></p> + +<p>Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital.</p> + +<p><i>Plan for the gradual Civilisation of Africa</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p247">247</a></span></p> + +<p> On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through + the Sahara and Ashantee.</p> + +<p><i>Prospectus of a Plan for forming a North African or +Sudan Company: to be instituted for the Purpose of +establishing an extensive Commerce with, and laying +open to British Enterprise, all the Interior Regions of +North Africa</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p251">251</a></span> </p> + +<p> Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an + Epitome of the Trade carried on by Great Britain and + the European States in the Mediterranean, indirectly + with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of North Africa, + and with other States of Sudan<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p254">254</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter from Vasco de Gama, in Elucidation of this +Plan<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p258">258</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter on the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, in +further Elucidation of this Plan<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p264">264</a></span></p> + +<p>Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p266">266</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Architecture of the Mosques.--Funeral Ceremonies of +the Moors,--Gardens at Fas</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p271">271</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Fragments, Notes, and Anecdotes, illustrating the Nature +and Character of the Country</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p276">276</a></span></p> + +<p>Introduction,--Trade with Sudan.--Wrecked +Ships on the Coast, <a href="#p278">278</a>.--Wrecked Sailors.--Timbuctoo +Coffee.--Sand Baths.--Civil War common in +West Barbary, <a href="#p279">279</a>.--Policy of the Servants of the +Emperor.--El Wah El Grarbee, or the Western +Oasis, <a href="#p280">280</a>.--Prostration, the Etiquette of the Court +of Marocco, <a href="#p281">281</a>.--Massacre of the Jews, and Attack +on Algiers.--Treaties with Muhamedan Princes, <a href="#p283">283</a>.--Berebbers +of Zimurh Shelleh--The European Merchants +at Mogodor escape from Decapitation, <a href="#p284">284</a>.--The +Body of the Emperor Muley Yezzid disinterred, <a href="#p286">186</a>. +Shelluhs; their Revenge and Retaliation, <a href="#p291">291</a>.--Travelling +in Barbary.--Anecdote displaying the African +Character, and showing them to be now what they +were anciently, under Jugurtha, <a href="#p293">293</a>.--Every Nation +is required to use its own Costume, <a href="#p296">296</a>.--Ali Bey (El +Abassi), Author of the Travels under that Name, <a href="#p297">297</a>.--The +Emperor's Attack on Dimenet, in the Atlas, +<a href="#p305">305</a>.--Moral Justice, <a href="#p306">306</a>.--Contest between the +Emperor and the Berebbers of Atlas.--Characteristic +Trait of Muhamedans, <a href="#p308">308</a>.--Political Deception, <a href="#p309">309</a>.--Etiquette +of the Court of Marocco, <a href="#p310">310</a>.--Customs +of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas.--Connubial +Customs, <a href="#p313">313</a>.--Political Duplicity, <a href="#p314">314</a>.--Etiquette +of Language at the Court of Marocco, <a href="#p315">315</a>.--Food, +viz. Kuscasoe, Hassua, El Hasseeda, <a href="#p317">317</a>--The Woled +Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the +Plains of Marocco, <a href="#p317">317</a>.--The Koran called the Beloved +Book.--Arabian Music, <a href="#p318">318</a>.--Sigilmessa.--Mungo + Park at Timbuctoo.--Troglodyte, <a href="#p319">319</a>,--Police +of West Barbary, <a href="#p320">320</a>.--Muley Abdrahaman ben +Muhamed, an Anecdote of, <a href="#p322">322</a>,--Anecdote of Muley +Ismael, <a href="#p323">323</a>.--Library at Fas, <a href="#p324">324</a>.--Deism, <a href="#p325">325</a>--Muhamedan +Loyalty.--Cairo, <a href="#p326">326</a>.--Races of Men +constituting the Inhabitants of West and South Barbary, +and that part of Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt +and Sejin Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the territories +of the present Emperor of Marocco: the +Moors--the Berebbers--the Shelluhs, <a href="#p327">327</a>.--The +Arabs--the Jews--Douars, <a href="#p328">328</a>.--Various Modes +of Intoxication, <a href="#p329">329</a>.--Division of Agricultural +Property, <a href="#p331">331</a>.--Mines.--Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, +or Night-blindness, called by the Arabs <i>Butelleese</i>; +and its Remedy, <a href="#p332">332</a>.--Vaccination, <a href="#p336">336</a>.--Game, +<a href="#p338">338</a>.--Agriculture.--Mitferes, <a href="#p339">339</a>.--Laws of Hospitality, +<a href="#p340">340</a>.--Punishment for Murder.--Insolvency +Laws, <a href="#p343">343</a>.--Dances, <a href="#p344">344</a>.--Circumcision.--Invoice +from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, <a href="#p345">345</a>.--Translation of +a Letter from Timbuctoo, <a href="#p346">346</a>.--Invoice from Timbuctoo +to Fas, <a href="#p347">347</a>.--Translation of its accompanying +Letter from Timbuctoo, <a href="#p348">348</a>.--Food of the Desert,--Antithesis, +a favourite Figure with the Arabs, <a href="#p349">349</a>.--Arabian +Modes of Writing, <a href="#p350">350</a>.--Decay of Science +and of Arts among the Arabs, <a href="#p352">352</a>.--Extraordinary +Abstinence experienced in the Sahara, <a href="#p353">353</a>.</p> + +<p><i>Languages of Africa</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p355">355</a></span></p> + +<p>Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference +between the Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen +of the Mandinga Language.--Comparison +of the Shelluh Language with that of the Wah el +Grarbie, or Oasis of Ammon, and with the original +Language of the Canary Islands, and similitude of +Customs.</p> + +<p><i>Titles of the Emperor of Marocco</i> <span class="pagenum"><a href="#p382">382</a></span></p> + +<p>Style of addressing him<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p383">383</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Specimens of Muhamedan Epistolatory Correspondence</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p384">384</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> I. Translation of a Letter from Muley Ismael, +Emperor of Marocco, to Captain Kirke, at Tangier, +Ambassador from King Charles the Second, A.D. +1684<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p384"><i>ibid</i></a></span>.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> II. From the same to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, +on board the Charles Galley, off Sallee, A.D. 1684<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p387">387</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> III, Captain Shovel's Answer, September +1684<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p389">389</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> IV. Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor +of Marocco's Letter to Queen Anne, A.D. 1710, from +the Harl. MSS. 7525<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p392">392</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> V. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan +Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, +to the European Consuls resident at Tangier, delivered +to each of them by the Bashaw of the Province of El +Grarb, A.D. 1788<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p394">394</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> VI. From Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, +Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. to His Majesty George +the Third, literally translated by J.G. Jackson, at +the Request of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, +after lying in the Secretary of State's Office here for +several Months, and being sent ineffectually to the +Universities, and after various Enquiries had been made +on Behalf of the Emperor to the Governor of Gibraltar, +the Bashaw of El Grarb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to +ascertain if any Answer had been returned to His Imperial +Majesty<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p395">395</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> VII. Translation of a Firman of Departure, +literally translated from the original Arabic, by J.G. +Jackson<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p398">398</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> VIII. From Hulaku the Tartar, Conqueror +of the East, to Al Malek Annasar, Sultan of Aleppo, +A.D. 1259<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p399">399</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> IX. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor +Muley Yezzid, to Webster Blount, Esq. Consul +General to the Empire of Marocco, from their High +Mightinesses, the States General of the Seven United +Provinces, written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, +and previous to the Negociation for the opening of +the Port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz to Dutch Commerce<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p402">402</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> X. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor +Yezzid to the Governor of Mogodor, Aumer ben +Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the Dutch, and +to send there the Merchants of that Nation<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p402">402</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XI. Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans +of Africa in their Correspondence with all their +Friends who are not of the Muhamedan Faith, A.D. +1797<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p404">404</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sc">Letter</span> XII. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan +Seedi Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor +of Mogodor, A.D. 1791, A.H. 1203<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p405">405</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Doubts having been made, in the Daily Papers, concerning +the Accuracy of the two following Translations of the +Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death, the +following Observations by the Author are laid before +the Public, in Elucidation of those Translations</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p406">406</a></span></p> + +<p>The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's +Death (The Author's Translation)<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p409">409</a></span></p> + +<p>Observation<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p410">410</a></span></p> + +<p>Extract from the Times, May 3, 1819.--Mungo +Park<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p412">412</a></span></p> + +<p>The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's +Death (Mr. Abraham Saleme's Translation)<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p413">413</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter to the Editor of the British Statesman, on the +Errors in Mr. Saleme's Translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's +Account of the Death of Mungo Park<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p415">415</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Letters respecting Africa, from J.G. Jackson and others Page</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p419">419</a></span></p> + +<p>On the Plague. To James Willis, Esq. late Consul +to Senegambia<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p419">419</a></span></p> + +<p>Death of Mungo Park<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p424">424</a></span> </p> + +<p>Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the +Interior of Africa<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p425">425</a></span></p> + +<p>Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease +called Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy +for Consumption in Africa.--Western Branch +of the Nile, and Water Communication between Timbuctoo +and Egypt<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p429">429</a></span></p> + +<p>Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia +or Night-blindness, in a Letter addressed to the Editor +of the Literary Panorama<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p432">432</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter to the same<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p433">433</a></span> </p> + +<p>Critical Observations on Extracts from the Travels +of Ali Bey and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal +of Literature, Science, and the Arts, edited at the +Royal Institution of Great Britain. Vol. I. No. 2, +p. 264<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p435">435</a></span></p> + +<p>On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile +of Timbuctoo, or of Sudan<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p443">443</a></span></p> + +<p>Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and +Confirmation of Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed +to his Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c.<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p446">446</a></span></p> + +<p>Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names +(by Catherine Hutton)<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p455">455</a></span> </p> + +<p>Hints for the Civilization of Barbary, and Diffusion +of Commerce, by Vasco de Gama<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p457">457</a></span></p> + +<p>Plan for the Conquest of Algiers, by Vasco de Gama<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p461">461</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter from El Hage Hamed El Wangary, respecting +a Review of Ali Bey's Travels, in the "Portfolio," an +American Periodical Work<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p464">464</a></span></p> + +<p>On the Negroes (by Vasco de Gama)<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p465">465</a></span></p> + +<p>Cursory Observations on Lieutenant Colonel Fitzclarence's +Journal of a Route across India, through +Egypt, to England<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p467">467</a></span></p> + +<p>On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Europe, +Asia, and Africa<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p471">471</a></span></p> + +<p>Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, +inserted in an Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. +Edward Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors that have +been committed by European travellers on that Continent, +from their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, +the learned and the general travelling Language of that +interesting Part of the World<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p474">474</a></span></p> + +<p>Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p493">493</a></span></p> + +<p>The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the +sworne Esquires of Queen Elizabeth, from Her Highness, +to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Marocco, +and King of Fez and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. Written +by Himselfe<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p494">494</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. +F.R.S.L.,and E.<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p515">505</a></span></p> + +<p>Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries +and Travels in Africa, by the late John Leyden, +M.D. by Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E.<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p508">508</a></span></p> + +<p>Cursory Observations on African Names<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p509">509</a></span></p> + +<p>Letter to the Author from Hugh Murray, Esq. +F.R.S.E.<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p513">513</a></span></p> + +<p>On the Two Niles of Africa, or the Niger and the +Nile<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p514">514</a></span></p> + +<p>APPENDIX.</p> + +<p><i>Historical Fragments in Elucidation of the foregoing +Pages</i><span class="pagenum"><a href="#p519">519</a></span></p> + +<p>First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo--Timbuctoo +and Guago captured by Muley Hamed (Son of +Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk, or +Muley Moluck) in the Sixteenth Century (about the +Year 1580)<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p519">519</a></span></p> + +<p>A Library of 3000 Arabic Manuscripts taken by the +Spaniards.--Contests among Christians reprimanded<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p520">520</a></span></p> + +<p>Muley El Arsheed (a Second Expedition to Timbuctoo +and Sudan)<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p521">521</a></span></p> + +<p>Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p523">523</a></span></p> + +<hr> + + +<p>DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.</p> + +<p> +Map of the Tracks across the Sahara to Timbuctoo,<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p1">1</a></span><br><i>to face page 1.</i>. </p> + +<p>Map of the Empire of Marocco<span class="pagenum"><a href="#p55">55</a></span></p> +<br><br> + +<p class="mid"><img alt="" src="images/001-small.png"><br> +<a href="images/001-large.png">Larger format</a></p> + +<p><a name="p1" id="p1"></a><span class="pagenum">[Page 1]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h4>AN</h4> + +<h3>ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY</h3> + +<h4>FROM</h4> + +<h2>FAS TO TIMBUCTOO,</h2> + +<h3>PERFORMED IN OR ABOUT THE YEAR 1787, A.C.</h3> + +<h4>BY</h4> + +<h3><i>EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY</i>.</h3> + + +<hr class="short"> +<br> + +<p>The Moors always prefer the spring and summer +for travelling, because they suffer very much +from the severe cold of the mornings in winter. +They generally leave Fas in the beginning of +April to proceed to Timbuctoo, and they leave +Timbuctoo to return to Fas in the month of +January.</p> + +<p>The Mecca caravan takes its departure from +Fas the beginning of March.</p> + +<p>In travelling, the Moors hire their camels +from stage to stage. Shabeeny's first stage was +from Fas<a id="footnotetag1" name="footnotetag1"></a> +<a href="#footnote1"><sup class="sml">1</sup></a> to Tafilelt, which is generally performed +in about twenty days.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote1" +name="footnote1"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag1"> +(return) </a> This is a journey of crooked and rugged roads across +the Atlas mountains, where they often sojourn in spots +which invite the traveller, so that it takes a longer time to +perform it than the distance would indicate.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p2" id="p2"></a><span class="pagenum">[2]</span></p> + +<p>The hire of every camel was from ten to +twelve ducats, at five shillings sterling per ducat; +as this route is through a very mountainous +country, and the travelling is very bad, the +charges were proportionally high; the weight +which every camel carried was between four and +five quintals, the camels in this country being +strong and very large.<a id="footnotetag2" name="footnotetag2"></a> +<a href="#footnote2"><sup class="sml">2</sup></a></p> + +<p>Tafilelt is the place of general meeting of all +the merchants who go to Timbuctoo.<a id="footnotetag3" name="footnotetag3"></a> +<a href="#footnote3"><sup class="sml">3</sup></a></p> + +<p>The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns, +but abounds in fortresses with mud-walls<a id="footnotetag4" name="footnotetag4"></a> +<a href="#footnote4"><sup class="sml">4</sup></a>, which +the natives call El Kassar, and which contain +from three to four hundred families; in these +fortresses there is a public market (in Arabic, +<i>soke</i>) every week, where the inhabitants purchase +provisions, &c.</p> + +<p>The natives of Tafilelt are descendants of the +shereefs<a id="footnotetag5" name="footnotetag5"></a> +<a href="#footnote5"><sup class="sml">5</sup></a> or princes of Marocco, and are therefore +of the Imperial family.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote2" +name="footnote2"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag2"> +(return) </a> This charge of carriage by the camels from Fas to Tafilelt, +is equal to 55s., sterling per camel; to 1-1/2d. per mile for +each camel, and to one farthing and one third per quintal of +merchandise per mile.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote3" +name="footnote3"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag3"> +(return) </a> That is for all who go from the Emperor of Marocco's +dominions, north of the river Morbeya, which is called El +Garb, or the North Western Division.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote4" +name="footnote4"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag4"> +(return) </a> These mud walls are made in cases, and the mode of +erecting them is called <i>tabia</i>. See Jackson's Account of +the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, +page 298.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote5" +name="footnote5"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag5"> +(return) </a> Hence it is called <i>Bled Shereef</i>, i.e. the Country of +Princes.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p3" id="p3"></a><span class="pagenum">[3]</span></p> + +<p>Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha<a id="footnotetag6" name="footnotetag6"></a> +<a href="#footnote6"><sup class="sml">6</sup></a>, which +he reached in six days. The expense per camel +was about six ducats, or thirty shillings sterling. +The district of Draha abounds in the small +hard date<a id="footnotetag7" name="footnotetag7"></a> +<a href="#footnote7"><sup class="sml">7</sup></a>, which is very fine; from four to six +drahems<a id="footnotetag8" name="footnotetag8"></a> +<a href="#footnote8"><sup class="sml">8</sup></a> (equal to two to three shillings sterling) +is the price of a camel load of these dates.</p> + +<p>The province of Draha is larger than that of +Tafilelt, its circumference being about four or +five days' journey. The natives<a id="footnotetag9" name="footnotetag9"></a> +<a href="#footnote9"><sup class="sml">9</sup></a> of Draha are +very dark, approaching to black, in their complexion: +this province abounds in fortresses, like +those of Tafilelt.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote6" +name="footnote6"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag6"> +(return) </a> A province at the foot of the mountains of Atlas, south +of Marocco, for which see the Map of West Barbary, in +Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. p. 1.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote7" +name="footnote7"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag7"> +(return) </a> This date is called by the natives <i>bouskree:</i> it contains +a larger quantity of saccharine juice than any other date. +This province also produces a date called <i>bûtube</i>, which is +the best that grows, and is called <i>sultan de timmar</i>, i.e. the +king of dates. It is not used as an article of commerce, +but is sent as presents to the great, and costs nearly double +the price of those of any other quality: the quality mostly +used for foreign commerce, is the Tafilelt date, called +<i>timmar adamoh</i>, which is sold by the grocers in London. +This species is, however, considered very unwholesome +food, and accordingly is never eaten by the Filellies, or inhabitants +of Tafilelt, but is food for the camels. The district +of Tafilelt abounds in dates of all kinds: there are not less +than thirty different kinds; and the plantations of dates belonging +to the princes of Tafilelt are very extensive, insomuch +that the annual produce of one plantation is often sold +for a thousand dollars, or 220£ sterling. Half a dollar, or +five drahems per camel load of three quintals.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote8" +name="footnote8"></a><b>Footnote 8:</b><a href="#footnotetag8"> +(return) </a> A drahem is a silver coin, ten of which are equal to a +Mexico dollar.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote9" +name="footnote9"></a><b>Footnote 9:</b><a href="#footnotetag9"> +(return) </a> Their colour is darker than new copper, but not black, +It may be compared to the colour of <i>old</i> mahogany, with a +black hue. The natives of Draha are proverbially stupid.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p4" id="p4"></a><span class="pagenum">[4]</span></p> + +<p>The caravans have not, as in the journey to +Mecca, their sheiks<a id="footnotetag10" name="footnotetag10"></a> +<a href="#footnote10"><sup class="sml">10</sup></a> or commanders. From +Fas to Tafilelt they had no chief, but as there +are generally a few old, rich, and respectable +men in the caravan, its direction and government +are committed to their care.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote10" +name="footnote10"></a><b>Footnote 10:</b><a href="#footnotetag10"> +(return) </a> The <i>sheik akkabar</i>, or chief of the +accumulated caravan, is generally a <i>shereef</i> or prince.</blockquote> + +<p>From Tafilelt, which, as before observed, is +the country of the shereefs, they are guided by +such of the trading shereefs as accompany the +caravan, and who have always great respect +paid them, till they arrive at Timbuctoo. The +caravan increases as it proceeds in its journey: +at Fas it consisted of about thirty or forty; at +Draha, of from 300 to 400 camels. From Draha, +at the distance of three days' travelling, they +found water by digging, and on the next morning +they entered the <i>Sahara</i>, which, for the first +twenty days is a plain sandy desert resembling +the sea. In this desert, when they pitch their +tents at night, they are obliged frequently to +shake the sand from their tops, as they would +otherwise be overwhelmed before the morning.</p> + +<p>Some part of this desert is hard, and the +camels do not sink deep into it; in others the +sand is very loose, which fatigues the camels +exceedingly. In travelling, the caravan is directed +by the stars at night, and by the sun in +<a name="p5" id="p5"></a><span class="pagenum">[5]</span> the day, and occasionally by the smell of the +earth, which they take up in their hands. For +the first twenty days after they enter this wilderness +they have no water; during this period, +the caravan is obliged to carry water in goat-skins<a id="footnotetag11" name="footnotetag11"></a> +<a href="#footnote11"><sup class="sml">11</sup></a>, +as not a drop is to be found by digging. +On this account, about a third part of the camels +are employed in carrying water, and even with +this quantity the camels are often left for three +or four days without any. They never use mules +in this part of the journey; they neither find +the <i>sheh</i><a id="footnotetag12" name="footnotetag12"></a> +<a href="#footnote12"><sup class="sml">12</sup></a>, nor the thorny plant so common in +the deserts of Africa.</p> + +<p>The country on the borders of this desert, +to the right and left, is inhabited by roving +Arabs, at the distance of three or four days +from the track which the caravan pursues; and +is said to be partly plain, and in part hilly, with +a little grass, and a few shrubs; when the cattle +of these Arabs have consumed what grows in +one spot, their owners remove to another. The +caravan, though it generally consisted of about +400 men well armed, seeks its route through +the most unfrequented part of the desert, from +a dread of the attacks of the Arabs. The +hottest wind is that from the east-south-east, +and is called <i>Esshume</i><a id="footnotetag13" name="footnotetag13"></a> +<a href="#footnote13"><sup class="sml">13</sup></a>; the coldest is that +which blows from the west-north-west. To +alleviate the great drought which travellers feel +in the desert, they have recourse to melted +butter.<a id="footnotetag14" name="footnotetag14"></a> +<a href="#footnote14"><sup class="sml">14</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote11" +name="footnote11"></a><b>Footnote 11:</b><a href="#footnotetag11"> +(return) </a> These goat-skins, when containing water, are called by +the Arabs <i>kereb</i>, or <i>ghireb</i>, plur. <i>kerba</i>, or <i>ghirba</i>, sing.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote12" +name="footnote12"></a><b>Footnote 12:</b><a href="#footnotetag12"> +(return) </a> The <i>sheh</i> is the wormseed plant, the thorny plant here +alluded to is the wild myrtle.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote13" +name="footnote13"></a><b>Footnote 13:</b><a href="#footnotetag13"> +(return) </a> <i>Esshume</i>, or the hot wind. For a particular +description of this extraordinary wind, see Jackson's Account +of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, +page 283 and 284.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote14" +name="footnote14"></a><b>Footnote 14:</b><a href="#footnotetag14"> +(return) </a> This is old butter kept several years in a <i>matamore</i>, or +subterraneous cavern. It is called by the Arabs of the desert, +<i>bûdra</i>; and much virtue is ascribed to it when it has +attained a certain age: a small quantity swallowed, quickly +diffuses itself through the system.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p6" id="p6"></a><span class="pagenum">[6]</span> +After passing this desert of twenty days, they +enter a country which varies in its appearance, +particular spots being fertile<a id="footnotetag15" name="footnotetag15"></a> +<a href="#footnote15"><sup class="sml">15</sup></a> (called El Wah). +Here they meet with <i>sederah</i><a id="footnotetag16" name="footnotetag16"></a> +<a href="#footnote16"><sup class="sml">16</sup></a>, a kind of wild +myrtle, in great quantities. This plant is called +by the natives, <i>gylan:</i> its height is about that +of a man; the camels feed upon it. Between +these shrubs there is a very small quantity of +grass in particular spots. In this part of the +desert they meet with extensive strata of stones: +though the surface is generally sand, yet at the +depth of eight or ten inches, they meet with a +yellow or reddish earth; and about four feet +deeper, with another kind of earth of various +colours, but most commonly of a brownish cast; +about five or six feet under this they find water, +<a name="p7" id="p7"></a><span class="pagenum">[7]</span> +which springs up very slowly, and at the bottom +of this water you meet with a light sand. Sometimes +the water is sweetish, frequently brackish, +and generally warm. This last desert is about +twenty days' journey, and is a vast plain without +any mountains. They meet with no Arabs in +this part, but the country on the right and left +of their route, at the distance of from three to +eight days' journey, is inhabited by Arabs, who +are governed by their own (<i>sheiks</i>) chiefs, and +are perfectly independent.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote15" +name="footnote15"></a><b>Footnote 15:</b><a href="#footnotetag15"> +(return) </a> El Wah. For a full explanation of this term, see +Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, 3d edition, +p. 283.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote16" +name="footnote16"></a><b>Footnote 16:</b><a href="#footnotetag16"> +(return) </a> <i>Sederah</i>, thorny shrubs of all kinds +are so called.</blockquote> + +<p>From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of forty-three +days, they meet with no trees, except the +<i>sederah</i>, no rivers, towns, or huts. From Draha, +which is a country abounding in camels, to +Timbuctoo, the charge per camel is from sixteen +to twenty-one ducats.<a id="footnotetag17" name="footnotetag17"></a> +<a href="#footnote17"><sup class="sml">17</sup></a> That so long a journey +is performed at so small<a id="footnotetag18" name="footnotetag18"></a> +<a href="#footnote18"><sup class="sml">18</sup></a> an expense, is owing +to the abundance of camels in Draha. The +caravan generally contains from 300 to 400 +men, of whom a great part prefer walking to +the uneasy motion of the camels.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote17" +name="footnote17"></a><b>Footnote 17:</b><a href="#footnotetag17"> +(return) </a> +<pre><span class="sml"> + From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 11 ducats per camel. + + Tafilelt to Draha, 6 do. 6 do. do. + + Draha to Timbuctoo, 48 do. 18-1/2 do. do. + + --- ---- + + 69 days, for 35-1/2 ducats per camel +load, which is about the rate of one farthing per quintal per +mile. This does not include the expense of camels for the +conveyance of merchants, servants, &c. or of provisions or +water, but merely of those carrying goods. A full account +of these caravans, and their mode of crossing the Sahara, +will be found in Jackson's Marocco, ch. 13.</span> +</pre> +</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote18" +name="footnote18"></a><b>Footnote 18:</b><a href="#footnotetag18"> +(return) </a> The expense is now (A.C. 1818) smaller, as the ducat, +by a coinage which is depreciated, has fallen to 3s. 6d. +sterling.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p8" id="p8"></a><span class="pagenum">[8]</span></p><br> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">Situation Of The City Of Timbuctoo.</span></p> + +<p>On the east side of the city of Timbuctoo, +there is a large forest, in which are a great +many elephants. The timber here is very +large. The trees on the outside of the forest +are remarkable for having two different colours; +that side which is exposed to the morning sun +is black, and the opposite side is yellow. The +body of the tree has neither branches nor leaves, +but the leaves, which are remarkably large, grow +upon the top only: so that one of these trees +appears, at a distance, like the mast and round +top of a ship. Shabeeny has seen trees in England +much taller than these: within the forest +the trees are smaller than on its skirts. There +are no trees resembling these in the Emperor of +Marocco's dominions. They are of such a size +that the largest cannot be girded by two men. +They bear a kind of berry about the size of a +walnut, in clusters consisting of from ten to +twenty berries. Shabeeny cannot say what is the +extent of this forest, but it is very large. Close +to the town of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a +small rivulet in which the inhabitants wash their +clothes, and which is about two feet deep. It +runs in the great forest on the east, and does +not communicate with the Nile, but is lost in +the sands west of the town. Its water is brackish; +that of the Nile is good and pleasant. The town +of Timbuctoo is surrounded by a mud-wall: the +<a name="p9" id="p9"></a><span class="pagenum">[9]</span> +walls are built tabia-wise<a id="footnotetag19" name="footnotetag19"></a> +<a href="#footnote19"><sup class="sml">19</sup></a> as in Barbary, viz. +they make large wooden cases, which they fill +with mud, and when that dries they remove the +cases higher up till they have finished the wall. +They never use stone or brick; they do not know +how to make bricks. The wall is about twelve +feet high, and sufficiently strong to defend the +town against the wild Arabs, who come frequently +to demand money from them. It has +three gates; one called Bab Sahara, or the gate +of the desert, on the north: opposite to this, on +the other side of the town, a second, called Bab +Neel, or the gate of the Nile: the third gate +leads to the forest on the east, and is called Beb +El Kibla.<a id="footnotetag20" name="footnotetag20"></a> +<a href="#footnote20"><sup class="sml">20</sup></a> The gates are hung on very large +hinges, and when shut at night, are locked, as +in Barbary; and are farther secured by a large +prop of wood placed in the inside slopingly +against them. There is a dry ditch, or excavation, +which circumscribes the town, (except +at those places which are opposite the gates,) +about twelve feet deep, and too wide for any man +to leap it. The three gates of the town are +<a name="p10" id="p10"></a><span class="pagenum">[10]</span> +shut every evening soon after sun-set: they +are made of folding doors, of which there is only +one pair. The doors are lined on the outside +with untanned hides of camels, and are so full +of nails that no hatchet can penetrate them; the +front appears like one piece of iron.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote19" +name="footnote19"></a><b>Footnote 19:</b><a href="#footnotetag19"> +(return) </a> The tabia walls are thus built: They put boards on each +side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the ground, or +attached to other stakes laid transversely across the wall; +the intermediate space is then filled with sand and mud, and +beat down with large wooden mallets, (as they beat the terraces) +till it becomes hard and compact; the cases are left on +for a day or two; they then take them off, and move them +higher up, repeating this operation till the wall is finished.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote20" +name="footnote20"></a><b>Footnote 20:</b><a href="#footnotetag20"> +(return) </a> El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed: in most +African towns there is a Kibla-gate, which faces Medina in +Arabia.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">Population.</span></p> + +<p>The town is once and a half the size of +Tetuan<a id="footnotetag21" name="footnotetag21"></a> +<a href="#footnote21"><sup class="sml">21</sup></a>, and contains, besides natives, about +10,000<a id="footnotetag22" name="footnotetag22"></a> +<a href="#footnote22"><sup class="sml">22</sup></a> of the people of Fas and Marocco. +The native inhabitants of the town of Timbuctoo +may be computed at 40,000, exclusive of +slaves and foreigners. Many of the merchants +who visit Timbuctoo are so much attached to +the place that they cannot leave it, but continue +there for life. The natives are all blacks: almost +every stranger marries a female of the +town, who are so beautiful that travellers often +fall in love with them at first sight.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote21" +name="footnote21"></a><b>Footnote 21:</b><a href="#footnotetag21"> +(return) </a> That is about four miles in circumference. +Tetuan contains +16,000 inhabitants; but, according to this account, +Timbuctoo contains 50,000, besides slaves, a population +above three times that of Tetuan: now, as the houses of +Timbuctoo are more spacious than those of Tetuan, it is to +be apprehended that Shabeeny has committed an error in +describing the size of Timbuctoo.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote22" +name="footnote22"></a><b>Footnote 22:</b><a href="#footnotetag22"> +(return) </a> Who go there for the purposes of trade.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">INNS, OR CARAVANSERAS.</span></p> + +<p>When strangers arrive they deposit their merchandise +in large warehouses called fondacs; +and hire as many rooms as they choose, having +<a name="p11" id="p11"></a><span class="pagenum">[11]</span> +stables for their camels, &c. in the same place. +These fondacs<a id="footnotetag23" name="footnotetag23"></a> +<a href="#footnote23"><sup class="sml">23</sup></a> are private property, and are +called either by the owner's name, or by that of +the person who built them. The fondac, in +which Shabeeny and his father lived, had forty +apartments for men, exclusive of stables; twenty +below and twenty above, the place having two +stories. The staircase was within the inclosure, +and was composed of rough boards; while he +staid, the rooms were constantly occupied by +natives and strangers; they hired rooms for three +months, for which they paid thirty okiat, or +fifteen shillings sterling per month. These fondacs +are called Woal<a id="footnotetag24" name="footnotetag24"></a> +<a href="#footnote24"><sup class="sml">24</sup></a> by the negroes. The +money was paid to the owner's agent, who always +lives in the fondac for this purpose, and to accommodate +strangers with provisions, &c. At +their arrival, porters assisted them and procured +every thing they wanted; but when they were +settled they hired a man and a woman slave to +cook and to clean their rooms, and to do every +menial office. Slaves are to be bought at all +hours: the slave-merchants keep a great number +ready for sale.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote23" +name="footnote23"></a><b>Footnote 23:</b><a href="#footnotetag23"> +(return) </a> It is probable that Adams, the American sailor, (if he +ever was at Timbuctoo,) saw one of these fondacs that belonged +to the king, and mistook it for his palace.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote24" +name="footnote24"></a><b>Footnote 24:</b><a href="#footnotetag24"> +(return) </a> Ten okiat, or drahems, make a Mexico dollar. +The name of the king of Timbuctoo, in 1800 A.C. was +Woolo. Many of the fondacs are rented of him.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid">HOUSES.</p> + +<p>In the houses little furniture is seen; the +principal articles (those of the kitchen excepted) +<a name="p12" id="p12"></a><span class="pagenum">[12]</span> +are beds, mats on the floor, and the carpets; +which cover the whole room. The rooms are +about fourteen feet by ten; the kitchen and +wash-house are generally to the right and to the +left of the passage; the necessary is next the +wash-house.<a id="footnotetag25" name="footnotetag25"></a> +<a href="#footnote25"><sup class="sml">25</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote25" +name="footnote25"></a><b>Footnote 25:</b><a href="#footnotetag25"> +(return) </a> Being more convenient for the Muhamedan ablutions.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">GOVERNMENT.</span></p> + +<p>Timbuctoo is governed by a native black, who +has the title of sultan. He is tributary to the +sultan of Housa, and is chosen by the inhabitants +of Timbuctoo, who write to the king of +Housa for his approbation. Upon the death of +a sultan, his eldest son is most commonly chosen. +The son of a concubine cannot inherit the throne; +if the king has no lawful son (son of his wife) +at his decease, the people choose his successor +from among his relations. The sultan has only +one lawful wife, but keeps many concubines: +the wife has a separate house for herself, children, +and slaves. He has no particular establishment +for his concubines, but takes any girl +he likes from among his slaves. His wife has +the principal management of his house. The +sultan's palace is built in a corner of the city, +on the east; it occupies a large extent of ground +within an inclosure, which has a gate. Within +this square are many buildings; some for the +officers of state. The king often sits in the gate +to administer justice, and to converse with his +friends. There is a small garden within it, furnishing +<a name="p13" id="p13"></a><span class="pagenum">[13]</span> +a few flowers and vegetables for his +table; there is also a well, from which the water +is drawn by a wheel.<a id="footnotetag26" name="footnotetag26"></a> +<a href="#footnote26"><sup class="sml">26</sup></a> Many female slaves are +musicians. The king has several sons, who are +appointed to administer justice to the natives. +Except the king's relations, there are no nobles +nor any privileged class of men as in Barbary<a id="footnotetag27" name="footnotetag27"></a> +<a href="#footnote27"><sup class="sml">27</sup></a>: +those of the blood-royal are much respected. +The officers of state are distinguished by titles +like those of Marocco; one that answers to an +Alkaid, <i>i. e.</i> a captain of 700, of 500, or of 100 +men; another like that of Bashaw. The king, if +he does not choose to marry one of his own relations, +takes a wife from the family of the chiefs +of his council; his daughters marry among the +great men. The queen-dowager has generally +an independent provision, but cannot marry. +The concubines of a deceased king cannot +marry, but are handsomely provided for by his +successor.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote26" +name="footnote26"></a><b>Footnote 26:</b><a href="#footnotetag26"> +(return) </a> A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a mule +or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a trough +as they pass round, which trough discharges the water into +the garden, and immerges the plants.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote27" +name="footnote27"></a><b>Footnote 27:</b><a href="#footnotetag27"> +(return) </a> The privileged class of men in Barbary, are the Fakeers; +but no one in Barbary is noble but the King's relations, who +are denominated shereefs.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">REVENUE.</span></p> + +<p>The revenue arises partly from land and partly +from duties upon all articles exposed to sale. +The king has lands cultivated by farmers who +are obliged to supply his household and troops; +<a name="p14" id="p14"></a><span class="pagenum">[14]</span> +the surplus after the support of their own +families is deposited in matamores<a id="footnotetag28" name="footnotetag28"></a> +<a href="#footnote28"><sup class="sml">28</sup></a>, these are +stores to be used in time of scarcity: the matamores +are about six feet deep. The king often +gives gold-dust, slaves, &c. to his favorites, but +the royal domains are never given. Lands not +very fruitful are common pastures. Moors pay +no duties; they say they will not bring goods if +compelled to pay duty, but the natives must pay; +the duties are collected by the king's officers, they +are four per cent. upon each article <i>ad valorem</i>. +At the gate of the desert, goods brought by +foreigners pay nothing, but goods brought in +by the gate of the Nile, (which is the gate of +the Negroes,) pay a tax: another part of the +revenue is two per cent, in kind on the produce +of the land; but the people of Barbary do not +pay even this for what land they cultivate. The +property of those who die without heirs goes to +the king, but when a foreigner dies the king takes +no part of his property; it is kept for his relations. +Timbuctoo being a frontier town remits +no revenue to Housa; the king of Housa sends +money to Timbuctoo to pay the garrison.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote28" +name="footnote28"></a><b>Footnote 28:</b><a href="#footnotetag28"> +(return) </a> Subterraneous excavations, or rooms in the form of a +cone, which have a small opening like a trap-door; when +these matamores are full of grain, they are shut, and the air +being excluded, the grain deposited in them will keep sound +twenty or thirty years. I have been in matamores in West +and in South Barbary, that would contain 1000 saas of wheat, +or nearly 2000 bushels Winchester measure. They are from +six to sixteen feet deep, and of various conical forms.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p15" id="p15"></a><span class="pagenum">[15]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">ARMY.</span></p> + +<p>The troops are paid by the king of Housa, and +are armed with pikes, swords, cutlasses, sabres, +and muskets; the other natives use the bow and +arrow. At Timbuctoo, in time of war, there are +about 12,000 or 15,000 troops, 5000 of which +receive constant daily pay in time of peace, and are +clothed every year; they are all infantry except +a few of the king's household. Sometimes he +subsidises the friendly Arabs, and makes occasional +presents to their chiefs<a id="footnotetag29" name="footnotetag29"></a> +<a href="#footnote29"><sup class="sml">29</sup></a>; these Arabs can +furnish him with from 80,000 to 40,000 men.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote29" +name="footnote29"></a><b>Footnote 29:</b><a href="#footnotetag29"> +(return) </a> Of the Brabeesh clan; see the Map.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE.</span></p> + +<p>Punishments are the bastinado, imprisonment, +and fine. He recollects but one prison. If a +native stabs another, he is obliged to attend the +wounded man until he recovers; if he dies, the +offender is put to death. The offender must +pay a daily allowance to the wounded man for +his support; if the wound appears dangerous, +the culprit is immediately imprisoned; if the +wounded man recovers, the offender must pay +a fine and suffer the bastinado. There are four +capital punishments: beheading, hanging, strangling +and bastinadoing to death. Beheading is +preferred; it is thus performed: the criminal sits +down, and a person behind gives him a blow or +push on the back or shoulder, which makes him +turn his head, and while his attention is thus +employed, the executioner strikes it off. Hanging +<a name="p16" id="p16"></a><span class="pagenum">[16]</span> +and strangling are seldom used; and bastinadoing +to death, is only inflicted when the +crime is highly aggravated. Capital crimes are +murder, robbery with violence, and stealing +cattle. Small offences, as stealing slaves and +other articles, are punished by the bastinado. +The landed estates of criminals are never forfeited.<a id="footnotetag30" name="footnotetag30"></a> +<a href="#footnote30"><sup class="sml">30</sup></a> +The police is so good, that merchants +reside there in perfect safety. There are no +exactions or extortions practised by government, +as in Barbary, nor even any presents +asked for the king. A debtor proving his inability, +cannot be molested<a id="footnotetag31" name="footnotetag31"></a> +<a href="#footnote31"><sup class="sml">31</sup></a>; but to the extent +of his means he is always liable; on refusing to +pay, he may be imprisoned; but upon proving +his insolvency before the judge, he is discharged, +though always liable if he should have means +at any future time. Watchmen patrole in the +<a name="p17" id="p17"></a><span class="pagenum">[17]</span> +night with their dogs; others are stationed in +particular places, as the market-place and the +<i>kasserea</i>, or square, where the merchants have +their shops. Guards are placed at the king's +palace. Capital crimes are tried by the king: +smaller offences by inferior magistrates. The +council sit with the king, every man according +to his rank; it consists of the principal officers +of his household; he asks <i>their</i> opinion, but +unless they are unanimous, decides according +to his own. There are always five or six judges +sitting in the king's court for the general administration +of justice. The king is understood +to have no power of altering the laws: if the +council are unanimous, the king never decides +against them.<a id="footnotetag32" name="footnotetag32"></a> +<a href="#footnote32"><sup class="sml">32</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote30" +name="footnote30"></a><b>Footnote 30:</b><a href="#footnotetag30"> +(return) </a> But go to the next heir.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote31" +name="footnote31"></a><b>Footnote 31:</b><a href="#footnotetag31"> +(return) </a> This is the written Muhamedan law: the insolvent is +always liable, but cannot be arrested or imprisoned whilst he +remains insolvent, but continues always liable for the debt +if he afterwards becomes solvent. The present Emperor +of Marocco has lately published an edict. Hearing that his +Jew subjects in London frequently became bankrupts, or +made compositions with their creditors, has enacted, that all, +persons in his dominions who live by buying and selling, shall +pay their just debts; but if unable, their brethren, or relations +shall pay their creditors for them. If <i>they</i> are unable, +the insolvent is to receive a beating every morning at sunrise, +to remind him of his defalcation. This law was enacted +at Fas in 1817, and since then, I am informed, no bankruptcy +has happened in that great commercial city.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote32" +name="footnote32"></a><b>Footnote 32:</b><a href="#footnotetag32"> +(return) </a> This is a custom derived from Muhamedan governments.</blockquote> + +<p>A slave is entirely at his master's disposal, +who may put him to death without trial; yet +the slave may complain to the council of ill-usage, +and if the complaint be well-founded, +his master is ordered to sell him. The slaves +are always foreign; a native cannot be made a +slave. There are three reasons for which a +slave may be entitled to freedom: <i>want of food, +want of clothes, and want of shoes</i>: an old slave +is frequently set at liberty, and returns to his +own country. The children of slaves are the +property of their master. Slaves cannot marry +without the consent of their masters. The +master of the female slave generally endeavours +to buy the male to whom she is attached.<a id="footnotetag33" name="footnotetag33"></a> +<a href="#footnote33"><sup class="sml">33</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote33" +name="footnote33"></a><b>Footnote 33:</b><a href="#footnotetag33"> +(return) </a> Many conscientious Muhamedans, in purchasing slaves, +calculate how many years' service their purchase money is +equal to. Thus, if a man pays a servant twenty dollars a-year +for wages, and he gives 100 dollars for a slave, he retains the +slave five years, when, if his conduct has been approved, he +often discharges him from servitude. The period for liberating +slaves in this manner is however quite optional, and admits +of great latitude; neither is there any compulsion in the +master. I have known instances of a slave being liberated +after a few years of servitude; and his master's confidence +has been such that he has advanced him money to trade with, +and has allowed him to cross the desert to Timbuctoo, waiting +for the repayment of his money till his return. This is often +the treatment of Muhamedans to slaves! how different from +that practised by the Planters in the West India Islands!!!</blockquote> +<p><a name="p18" id="p18"></a><span class="pagenum">[18]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">SUCCESSION TO PROPERTY.</span></p> + +<p>Upon the decease of a native, the first claim +is that of his creditors; the next is that of his +widow, who is entitled to the dower<a id="footnotetag34" name="footnotetag34"></a> +<a href="#footnote34"><sup class="sml">34</sup></a> promised +by her husband to her father, if, not already +paid, and to one-eighth of the remainder; the +rest is divided among the children. A son's +share is double that of a daughter. If they agree, +the land may be sold, if not, it must be divided +as above. Of lands and houses, nothing is sold +till the children arrive at the age of discretion; +when each is entitled to his share, the rest +being unsold till the others are of age in turn. +This age is not fixed at so many years, but +<a name="p19" id="p19"></a><span class="pagenum">[19]</span> +the period of discretion is determined by the +relations, upon oath, before a magistrate: there +is hardly any man that knows his own age. The +father may dispose of his property by will, as +far as regards the property of his children, but +he cannot divest his wife of her rights; if a +wife dies without a will, her children succeed. +Wills are not written; the guardian appointed +by the father takes care of the property of the +deceased, and employs in trade, and lends out +the money for the benefit of his children. Relations +succeed if there are no children; and +if there are no relations, the king takes all but +the wife's share. The wife's relations are not +considered as the husband's relations. Children +of concubines inherit equally with those of the +wife. If a man have two children by a concubine, +she becomes free at his death, otherwise +she remains a slave. She is entitled, having +children, to an eighth of the property.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote34" +name="footnote34"></a><b>Footnote 34:</b><a href="#footnotetag34"> +(return) </a> The husband always stipulates to pay the father of his +wife a certain sum: this is the Muhamedan dower.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">MARRIAGE.</span></p> + +<p>A man agrees to pay a certain price to the +father of his wife, and witnesses are called to support +the proof of the contract: the girl is sent +home, and at night a feast is made by the husband +for his male friends; by the wife for her +female friends.</p> + +<p>Rape is punished by death. Adultery is not +punishable by the law, nor is it a ground for +divorce. A husband may always put away his +wife, but if without sufficient legal ground, +<a name="p20" id="p20"></a><span class="pagenum">[20]</span> +he must pay her stipulated dower. Abusive +language is a sufficient ground of divorce, but +adultery is not. The dower is the price originally +agreed upon with the father; and if it has been +already paid (which it seldom is), she has no +further claim upon the husband, though put +away without sufficient ground. Her clothes, +jewels, &c. given to her by her relations are her +own property. A father generally gives the +daughter in jewels, &c. a present double the +value of that given him by the husband. A man +can have but one wife, but may keep concubines. +Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by +law. The law says, "a woman's flesh is her +own, she may do with it what she pleases." +Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his +niece, but not his daughter.</p> + +<p>The people of Timbuctoo are not circumcised.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">TRADE.</span></p> + +<p>Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the +country of the blacks, and even for Marocco and +Alexandria.</p> + +<p>The principal articles of merchandise are +tobacco, kameemas<a id="footnotetag35" name="footnotetag35"></a> +<a href="#footnote35"><sup class="sml">35</sup></a>, beads of all colours for +necklaces, and cowries, which are bought at Fas +by the pound.<a id="footnotetag36" name="footnotetag36"></a> +<a href="#footnote36"><sup class="sml">36</sup></a> Small Dutch looking glasses, some +<a name="p21" id="p21"></a><span class="pagenum">[21]</span> +of which are convex, set in gilt paper frames. +They carry neither swords, muskets, nor knives, +except such as are wanted in the caravan. At +the entrance of the desert they buy rock-salt<a id="footnotetag37" name="footnotetag37"></a> +<a href="#footnote37"><sup class="sml">37</sup></a> of +the Arabs, who bring it to them in loads ready +packed, which they carry as an article of trade. +In their caravan there were about 500 camels, of +which about 150 or 200 were laden with salt. +The camels carry less of salt than of any other +article, because (being rock-salt) it wears their +sides. They pay these Arabs from twenty to +fifteen ounces<a id="footnotetag38" name="footnotetag38"></a> +<a href="#footnote38"><sup class="sml">38</sup></a> of Barbary money per load. An +ounce of Barbary is worth about <i>6d.</i>, and a ducat +is worth about <i>5s.</i> sterling. They sell this salt +at Timbuctoo upon an average at 50 per cent. +profit; it is more profitable than linen. They +take no oil from Barbary to Timbuctoo as they +are supplied from other places with fish-oil used +for lamps but not for food; they make soap +with the oil. The returns are made in gold-dust, +slaves, ivory, and pepper; gold-dust is preferred +and is brought to Timbuctoo from Housa in +small leather bags. He bought one of these +bags of gold-dust and pieces of rings for 90 +Mexican dollars, and sold it at Fas for 150. The +merchants bring their gold from Timbuctoo in +the saddle-bags, in small purses of different sizes +<a name="p22" id="p22"></a><span class="pagenum">[22]</span> +one within the other. The bag which Shabeeny +purchased was bought at Housa, where it sells for +seven or eight ducats cheaper than at Timbuctoo. +On articles from Marocco they make from thirty +to fifty per cent. clear profit. Cowries and gold-dust +are the medium of traffic. The shereefs and +other merchants generally sell their goods to +some of the principal native merchants, and immediately +send off the slaves, taking their gold-dust +with them into other countries. The merchants +residing at Timbuctoo have agents or correspondents +in other countries; and are themselves +agents in return. Timbuctoo is visited +by merchants from all the neighbouring black +countries. Some of its inhabitants are amazingly +rich. The dress of common women has been +often worth 1000 dollars. A principal source of +their wealth is lending gold-dust and slaves at +high interest to foreign merchants, which is +repaid by goods from Marocco and other +countries, to which the gold-dust and slaves are +carried. They commonly trade in the public +market, but often send to the merchant or go to +his house. Cowries in the least damaged are bad +coin, and go for less than those that are perfect. +There are no particular market days; the public +market for provisions is an open place fifty +feet square, and is surrounded by shops.<a id="footnotetag39" name="footnotetag39"></a> +<a href="#footnote39"><sup class="sml">39</sup></a> The +Arabs sit down on their goods in the middle, till +they have sold them. The pound weight of Timbuctoo +is about two ounces heavier than the small +<a name="p23" id="p23"></a><span class="pagenum">[23]</span> +pound of Barbary, which weighs twenty Spanish +dollars; they have also half and quarter pounds; +by these weights is sold milk, rice, butter, &c. +as well as by the measure. The weights are of +wood or iron under the inspection of a magistrate +called in Barbary <i>m'tasseb, i.e.</i> inspector of +weights and measures, and if the weights are +found deficient, he punishes the offender immediately; +they have also a quintal or cwt. They +have a wooden measure called a <i>m'hoad</i><a id="footnotetag40" name="footnotetag40"></a> +<a href="#footnote40"><sup class="sml">40</sup></a>, equal +to the small <i>m'hoad</i> of Barbary, where a +<i>m'hoad</i> of wheat weighs about 24 lb. Both the +weights and measures are divided into 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 +and 1/16.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote35" +name="footnote35"></a><b>Footnote 35:</b><a href="#footnotetag35"> +(return) </a> <i>Kameema</i> is the Arabic word for the linen called +<i>plattilias</i>. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at +Timbuctoo.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote36" +name="footnote36"></a><b>Footnote 36:</b><a href="#footnotetag36"> +(return) </a> Called, in Amsterdam, <i>Velt Spiegels</i>, and in +Timbuctoo, <i>Murrâih de juah</i>.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote37" +name="footnote37"></a><b>Footnote 37:</b><a href="#footnotetag37"> +(return) </a> This salt is bought at Tishet, at Shangareen, and at +Arawan, in the south part of Sahara; for which see the +Map of Northern and Central Africa, in the new Supplement +to the Encyclopædia Britannica, Article <i>Africa</i>.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote38" +name="footnote38"></a><b>Footnote 38:</b><a href="#footnotetag38"> +(return) </a> <i>Okia</i> is the Arabic name for this piece of money.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote39" +name="footnote39"></a><b>Footnote 39:</b><a href="#footnotetag39"> +(return) </a> Similar to the corn-market at Mogodor.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote40" +name="footnote40"></a><b>Footnote 40:</b><a href="#footnotetag40"> +(return) </a> The <i>m'hoad</i> is no longer used in Barbary. +There is a <i>krube</i>, of which sixteen are equal to a <i>saa</i>, +which, when filled with good wheat, weighs 100 lbs. equal to 119 lbs. +English weight.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">MANUFACTURES.</span></p> + +<p>The black natives are smiths, carpenters, +shoemakers, tailors, and masons, but not weavers. +The Arabs in the neighbourhood are weavers, +and make carpets resembling those of Fas and of +Mesurata, where they are called telisse<a id="footnotetag41" name="footnotetag41"></a> +<a href="#footnote41"><sup class="sml">41</sup></a>; they +are of wool, from their own sheep, and camels' +hair. The bags for goods, and the tents, are of +goats' and camels' hair; there are no palmetto +trees in that country. Their thread<a id="footnotetag42" name="footnotetag42"></a> +<a href="#footnote42"><sup class="sml">42</sup></a>, needles, +scissors, &c. come from Fas: most of their +<a name="p24" id="p24"></a><span class="pagenum">[24]</span> +ploughs they buy of the Arabs near the town, +who are subject to it. Some are made in the +town. These Arabs manufacture iron from ore +found in the country, and are good smiths. They +make iron bars of an excellent quality. They +tan leather for soles of shoes very well, but +know nothing of dressing leather in oil: the +upper leather comes from Fas<a id="footnotetag43" name="footnotetag43"></a> +<a href="#footnote43"><sup class="sml">43</sup></a>; their wooden +combs<a id="footnotetag44" name="footnotetag44"></a> +<a href="#footnote44"><sup class="sml">44</sup></a> and spoons come from Barbary; they +have none of ivory or horn. No lead is brought +from Barbary; he thinks they have lead of their +own. The best shoes are brought from Fas.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote41" +name="footnote41"></a><b>Footnote 41:</b><a href="#footnotetag41"> +(return) </a> <i>Telissa</i>, sing.; <i>Telisse</i>, plur.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote42" +name="footnote42"></a><b>Footnote 42:</b><a href="#footnotetag42"> +(return) </a> To Fas they are brought from England through Gibraltar +and Mogodor.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote43" +name="footnote43"></a><b>Footnote 43:</b><a href="#footnotetag43"> +(return) </a> Leather is also imported from Marocco, and from +Terodant in South Barbary.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote44" +name="footnote44"></a><b>Footnote 44:</b><a href="#footnotetag44"> +(return) </a> Wooden combs are imported from Marseilles to Mogodor.</blockquote> + + + +<p>The country is well cultivated, except on the +side of the desert. They have rice, <i>el bishna</i><a id="footnotetag45" name="footnotetag45"></a> +<a href="#footnote45"><sup class="sml">45</sup></a>, +and a corn which <i>they</i> call <i>allila</i><a id="footnotetag46" name="footnotetag46"></a> +<a href="#footnote46"><sup class="sml">46</sup></a>, but in Barbary +it is called <i>drâh</i>: this requires very rich +ground. They make bread of <i>el bishna</i>: they +have no wheat or barley. Property is fenced by a +bank and a ditch. Dews are very heavy. Lands +are watered by canals cut from the Nile; high +lands by wells, the water of which is raised by +wheels<a id="footnotetag47" name="footnotetag47"></a> +<a href="#footnote47"><sup class="sml">47</sup></a> worked by cattle, as in Egypt. They +<a name="p25" id="p25"></a><span class="pagenum">[25]</span> +have violent thunder-storms in summer, but no +rains: the mornings and evenings, during winter, +are cold; the coldest wind is from the west, +when it is as cold as at Fas. The winter lasts +about two months, though the weather is cool +from September to April. They begin to sow +rice in August and September, but they can +sow it at any time, having water at hand: he +saw some sowing rice while others were reaping +it. <i>El bishna</i> and other corn is sown before +December. <i>El bishna</i> is ripe in June and +July; as are beans. <i>Allila</i> may be sown at all +seasons; it requires water only every eight or ten +days. Their beans are like the small Mazagan +beans, and are sown in March; the stalk is +short, but full of pods. The <i>allila</i> produces a +small, white, flattish grain.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote45" +name="footnote45"></a><b>Footnote 45:</b><a href="#footnotetag45"> +(return) </a> <i>El Bishna</i>. This is the Arabic name for Indian corn.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote46" +name="footnote46"></a><b>Footnote 46:</b><a href="#footnotetag46"> +(return) </a> <i>Allila</i>, a species of millet.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote47" +name="footnote47"></a><b>Footnote 47:</b><a href="#footnotetag47"> +(return) </a> A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, as before described +in the note, page 13.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">PROVISIONS.</span></p> + +<p>Rice is their principal food, but the rich have +wheaten flour from Fas<a id="footnotetag48" name="footnotetag48"></a> +<a href="#footnote48"><sup class="sml">48</sup></a>, and make very fine +bread, which is considered a luxury. Bread is +also made from the <i>allila</i>. They roast, boil, +bake, and stew, but make no <i>cuscasoe</i>. Their +meals are breakfast, dinner, and supper. They +commonly breakfast about eight, dine about +three, and sup soon after sunset. They drink +only water or milk with their meals, have no +palm wine or any fermented liquor; when they +wish to be exhilarated after dinner, they provide +<a name="p26" id="p26"></a><span class="pagenum">[26]</span> +a plant of an intoxicating quality called <i>el hashisha</i><a id="footnotetag49" name="footnotetag49"></a> +<a href="#footnote49"><sup class="sml">49</sup></a>, +of which they take a handful before a +draught of water.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote48" +name="footnote48"></a><b>Footnote 48:</b><a href="#footnotetag48"> +(return) </a> And also from Marocco.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote49" +name="footnote49"></a><b>Footnote 49:</b><a href="#footnotetag49"> +(return) </a> <i>El Hashisha</i>. This is the African hemp plant: it is +esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous vacuity +of mind which it produces on those who smoke it: +unlike the intoxication from wine, a fascinating stupor pervades +the mind, and the dreams are agreeable. The <i>kief</i> is +the flower and seeds of the plant: it is a strong narcotic, so +that those who use it cannot do without it. For a further +description of this plant, see Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d +edit. p. 131 & 132.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">ANIMALS.</span></p> + +<p>Goats are very large, as big as the calves in +England, and very plentiful; sheep are also +very large. Cattle are small; many are oxen. +Milk of camels and goats is preferred to that of +cows. Horses are small, and are principally +fed upon camels' milk; they are of the greyhound<a id="footnotetag50" name="footnotetag50"></a> +<a href="#footnote50"><sup class="sml">50</sup></a> +shape, and will travel three days without +rest. They have dromedaries<a id="footnotetag51" name="footnotetag51"></a> +<a href="#footnote51"><sup class="sml">51</sup></a> which travel +from Timbuctoo<a id="footnotetag52" name="footnotetag52"></a> +<a href="#footnote52"><sup class="sml">52</sup></a> to Tafilelt in the short period +of five or six days.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote50" +name="footnote50"></a><b>Footnote 50:</b><a href="#footnotetag50"> +(return) </a> These horses are the desert horse, or the <i>shrubat +er'reeh</i>. See Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edition, p. 94. +to 96.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote51" +name="footnote51"></a><b>Footnote 51:</b><a href="#footnotetag51"> +(return) </a> These are <i>El Heirie</i>, (or <i>Erragual</i>), for a particular +description of which see Jackson's Marocco, p. 91. to 93.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote52" +name="footnote52"></a><b>Footnote 52:</b><a href="#footnotetag52"> +(return) </a> A distance of upwards of 1200 British miles.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p27" id="p27"></a><span class="pagenum">[27]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">BIRDS.</span></p> + +<p>They have common fowls, ostriches, and a +bird larger than our blackbird<a id="footnotetag53" name="footnotetag53"></a> +<a href="#footnote53"><sup class="sml">53</sup></a>; also storks, +which latter are birds of passage, and arrive in +the spring and disappear at the approach of +winter; swallows, &c.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote53" +name="footnote53"></a><b>Footnote 53:</b><a href="#footnotetag53"> +(return) </a> The starling.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">FISH.</span></p> + +<p>They have many extremely good in the Nile; +one of the shape and size of our salmon<a id="footnotetag54" name="footnotetag54"></a> +<a href="#footnote54"><sup class="sml">54</sup></a>; the +largest of these are about four feet long. They +use lines and hooks brought from Barbary, and +nets, like our casting nets, made by themselves. +They strike large fish with spears and fish-gigs.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote54" +name="footnote54"></a><b>Footnote 54:</b><a href="#footnotetag54"> +(return) </a> The <i>shebbel</i>, a species of salmon, a very +delicate fish, but so rich that it is best roasted, which the +Arabs do in a superior manner.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">PRICES OF DIFFERENT ARTICLES.</span></p> + +<p>Sheep from ten to sixteen cowries. Cowries<a id="footnotetag55" name="footnotetag55"></a> +<a href="#footnote55"><sup class="sml">55</sup></a> +are much valued, and form an ornament of +head-dress even for the richest women; they are +highly valued as ornaments. Goats are cheaper +than sheep; the best from eight to twelve cowries. +Fowls from four to six cowries each. Antelopes +are very scarce and dear. Camels from thirty to +sixty cowries, according to their size and condition. +Ostriches, of which vast numbers are +brought to market, are very cheap; the fore-feathers<a id="footnotetag56" name="footnotetag56"></a> +<a href="#footnote56"><sup class="sml">56</sup></a> +are often carried to Tafilelt and Marocco, +the inferiors are thrown away. A good +<a name="p28" id="p28"></a><span class="pagenum">[28]</span> +slave is worth ten, fifteen, or twenty ducats of +five shillings each; at Fas, they are worth from +sixty to a hundred ducats: females are the +dearest. Slaves are most valuable about twelve +years old. They have fish-oil for lamps, but use +neither wax nor tallow for candles. The fish-oil +is a great article of trade, and is brought from +the neighbourhood<a id="footnotetag57" name="footnotetag57"></a> +<a href="#footnote57"><sup class="sml">57</sup></a> of the sea by Genawa<a id="footnotetag58" name="footnotetag58"></a> +<a href="#footnote58"><sup class="sml">58</sup></a> to +Housa, and thence to Timbuctoo; dearer at +Timbuctoo than at Housa, and dearer at Housa +than at Genawa.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote55" +name="footnote55"></a><b>Footnote 55:</b><a href="#footnotetag55"> +(return) </a> Cowries are called <i>El Uda</i>, and are sold +in Santa Cruz and in South Barbary, at twenty Mexico dollars +per quintal.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote56" +name="footnote56"></a><b>Footnote 56:</b><a href="#footnotetag56"> +(return) </a> Called <i>Ujuh</i>.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote57" +name="footnote57"></a><b>Footnote 57:</b><a href="#footnotetag57"> +(return) </a> Probably from the coast of Guinea, with which Housa +carries on an extensive trade.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote58" +name="footnote58"></a><b>Footnote 58:</b><a href="#footnotetag58"> +(return) </a> <i>i.e.</i> Guinea; Genawa being the Arabic name for +the coast of Guinea.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">DRESS.</span></p> + +<p>The sultan wears a white turban of very fine +muslin, the ends of which are embroidered with +gold, and brought to the front; this turban +<a name="p29" id="p29"></a><span class="pagenum">[29]</span> +comes from Bengala.<a id="footnotetag59" name="footnotetag59"></a> +<a href="#footnote59"><sup class="sml">59</sup></a> He wears a loose white +cotton shirt, with sleeves long and wide, open at +the breast; unlike that of the Arabs, it reaches +to the small of the leg; over this a <i>caftan</i><a id="footnotetag60" name="footnotetag60"></a> +<a href="#footnote60"><sup class="sml">60</sup></a> of red +woollen cloth, of the same length; red is generally +esteemed. The shirt (<i>kumja</i>) is made +at Timbuctoo, but the caftan comes from Fas, +ready made; over the caftan is worn a short cotton +waistcoat, striped white, red, and blue; this +comes from Bengala, and is called <i>juliba</i>.<a id="footnotetag61" name="footnotetag61"></a> +<a href="#footnote61"><sup class="sml">61</sup></a> The +sleeves of the caftan are as wide as those of +the shirt; the breast of it is fastened with buttons, +in the Moorish style, but larger. The +<i>juliba</i> has sleeves as wide as the caftan. When he +is seated, all the sleeves are turned up over the +shoulder<a id="footnotetag62" name="footnotetag62"></a> +<a href="#footnote62"><sup class="sml">62</sup></a>, so that his arms are bare, and the air +is admitted to his body.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote59" +name="footnote59"></a><b>Footnote 59:</b><a href="#footnotetag59"> +(return) </a> <i>i.e.</i> Bengal.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote60" +name="footnote60"></a><b>Footnote 60:</b><a href="#footnotetag60"> +(return) </a> A <i>caftan</i>, or coat, with wide sleeves, no collar, +but that buttons all down before.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote61" +name="footnote61"></a><b>Footnote 61:</b><a href="#footnotetag61"> +(return) </a> It is not the cotton cloth which comes from Bengal +that is named <i>Juliba</i>, but the fashion or the cut of it.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote62" +name="footnote62"></a><b>Footnote 62:</b><a href="#footnotetag62"> +(return) </a> The Moorish fashion.</blockquote> + +<p>Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of +silk, like a pear; one of the distinctions of +royalty. He wears, also, a close red skull-cap, +like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one +over each shoulder, such as the Moors wear +round the waist; they are rather cords than +sashes, and are very large; half a pound of silk +is used in one of them. The subjects wear but +one; they are either red, yellow, or blue, made +at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, a sash +round the waist, also made at Fas; of these +there are two kinds,--one of leather, with a +gold buckle in front, like those of the soldiers +in Barbary; the other of silk, like those of the +Moorish merchants. He wears (as do the subjects) +breeches made in the Moorish fashion, of +cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of +woollen in winter, brought ready made from +Fas. His shoes are distinguished by a piece of +red leather, in front of the leg, about three inches +wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and +gold.</p> +<p><a name="p30" id="p30"></a><span class="pagenum">[30]</span></p> + +<p>When he sits in his apartment, he wears a +dagger with a gold hilt, which hangs on his +right side: when he goes out, his attendants +carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance.</p> + +<p>His subjects dress in the same manner, excepting +the distinctions of royalty; viz. the pear, +the sashes on the shoulders, and the embroidered +leather on the shoes.</p> + +<p>The sultana wears a caftan, open in front +from top to bottom, under this a slip of cotton +like the kings, an Indian shawl over the shoulders, +which ties behind, and a silk handkerchief +about her head. Other women dress in +the same manner. They wear no drawers. The +poorest women are always clothed. They never +show their bosom. The men and women wear +ear-rings. The general expense of a woman's +dress is from two ducats to thirty.<a id="footnotetag63" name="footnotetag63"></a> +<a href="#footnote63"><sup class="sml">63</sup></a> Their shoes +are red, and are brought from Marocco.<a id="footnotetag64" name="footnotetag64"></a> +<a href="#footnote64"><sup class="sml">64</sup></a> Their +arms and ankles are adorned with bracelets. +The poor have them of brass; the rich, of gold. +The rich ornament their heads with cowries. +The poor have but one bracelet on the leg, and +one on the arm; the rich, two. They also wear +gold rings upon their fingers. They have no +pearls or precious stones. The women do not +wear veils.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote63" +name="footnote63"></a><b>Footnote 63:</b><a href="#footnotetag63"> +(return) </a> Equal to from two to thirty Mexico dollars.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote64" +name="footnote64"></a><b>Footnote 64:</b><a href="#footnotetag64"> +(return) </a> They are manufactured at Marocco.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p31" id="p31"></a><span class="pagenum">[31]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">DIVERSIONS.</span></p> + +<p>The king has 500 or 600 horses; his stables +are in the inclosure; the saddles have a peak +before, but none behind. He frequently hunts +the antelope, wild ass, ostrich, and an animal, +which, from Shabeeny's description, appears to +be the wild cow<a id="footnotetag65" name="footnotetag65"></a> +<a href="#footnote65"><sup class="sml">65</sup></a> of Africa. The wild ass is +very fleet, and when closely pursued kicks back +the earth and sand in the eyes of his pursuers. +They have the finest greyhounds in the world, +with which they hunt only the antelope<a id="footnotetag66" name="footnotetag66"></a> +<a href="#footnote66"><sup class="sml">66</sup></a>; for +the dogs are not able to overtake the ostrich. +Shabeeny has often hunted with the king; any +person may accompany him. Sometimes he does +not return for three or four days: he sets out always +after sunrise. Whatever is killed in the chace +is divided among the strangers and other company +present; but those animals which are taken +alive are sent to the king's palace. He goes to +hunt towards the desert, and does not begin till +distant ten miles from the town. The antelopes +are found in herds of from thirty to sixty. He +never saw an antelope, wild ass, or ostrich alone, +but generally in large droves. The ostriches, like +the storks, place centinels upon the watch: thirty +yards are reckoned a distance for a secure shot +with the bow. The king always shoots on horseback, +<a name="p32" id="p32"></a><span class="pagenum">[32]</span> +as do many of his courtiers, sometimes +with muskets, but oftener with bows. The king +takes a great many tents with him. There are +no lions, tigers, or wild boars near Timbuctoo. +They play at chess and draughts, and are very +expert at those games: they have no cards; +but they have tumblers, jugglers, and ventriloquists, +whose voice appears to come from under +the armpits. He was much pleased with their +music, of which they have twenty-four different +sorts. They have dances of different kinds, +some of which are very indecent.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote65" +name="footnote65"></a><b>Footnote 65:</b><a href="#footnotetag65"> +(return) </a> The <i>Aoudad</i>; for a particular description +of which, see Jackson's Marocco, Chapter V., Zoology, p. 84.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote66" +name="footnote66"></a><b>Footnote 66:</b><a href="#footnotetag66"> +(return) </a> The Gazel, or Antelope, outruns at first the greyhound; +but after running about an hour the greyhound gains on him.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">TIME.</span></p> + +<p>They measure time<a id="footnotetag67" name="footnotetag67"></a> +<a href="#footnote67"><sup class="sml">67</sup></a> by days, weeks, lunar +months, and lunar years; yet few can ascertain +their age.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote67" +name="footnote67"></a><b>Footnote 67:</b><a href="#footnotetag67"> +(return) </a> The hour is an indefinite term, and assimilates to our +expression of a good while; it is from half an hour by the +dial to six hours, and the difference is expressed by the word +<i>wahad saa kabeer</i>, a long hour; and <i>wahad saa sereer</i>, +a little hour; also by the elongation of the last syllable of the +last word.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">RELIGION.</span></p> + +<p>They have no temples, churches, or mosques, +no regular worship or sabbath; but once in +three months they have a great festival, which +lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and +is spent in eating and drinking. He does not +know the cause; but thinks it, perhaps, a commemoration +of the king's birth-day; no work is +done. They believe in a Supreme Being and +<a name="p33" id="p33"></a><span class="pagenum">[33]</span> +another state of existence, and have saints and +men whom they revere as holy. Some of them +are sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary +and Turkey; and though physicians are numerous, +they expect more effectual aid in sickness +from the prayers of the saints, especially in the +rheumatism. Music is employed to excite ecstasy +in the saint, who, when in a state of inspiration, +tells (on the authority of some departed +saint, generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) +what animal must be sacrificed for the recovery +of the patient: a white cock, a red cock, a hen, +an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal +is then killed in the presence of the sick, and +dressed; the blood, feathers, and bones are preserved +in a shell and carried to some retired +spot, where they are covered and marked as a +sacrifice. No salt or seasoning is used in the +meat, but incense is used previous to its preparation. +The sick man eats as much as he can +of the meat, and all present partake; the rice, +or what else is dressed with it, must be the produce +of charitable contributions from others, not +of the house or family; and every contributor +prays for the patient.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">DISEASES.</span></p> + +<p>The winds of the desert produce complaints +in the stomach, cured by medicine. They have +professed surgeons and physicians. The bite of a +snake is cured by sucking the wound. They have +<a name="p34" id="p34"></a><span class="pagenum">[34]</span> +the jlob<a id="footnotetag68" name="footnotetag68"></a> +<a href="#footnote68"><sup class="sml">68</sup></a> violently, for which sulphur from Terodant +in Suse is taken internally and externally. +This disorder is sometimes fatal. They are afflicted +also with fevers and agues. Bleeding is +often successful; the physicians prescribe also +purgatives and emetics. Ruptures are frequent +and dangerous; seldom cured, and often fatal. +They tap for the dropsy. He never heard of +the venereal disease there. Head-aches and consumptions +also prevail. The physicians<a id="footnotetag69" name="footnotetag69"></a> +<a href="#footnote69"><sup class="sml">69</sup></a> collect +herbs and use them in medicine.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote68" +name="footnote68"></a><b>Footnote 68:</b><a href="#footnotetag68"> +(return) </a> Probably the itch, called El Hack in Barbary.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote69" +name="footnote69"></a><b>Footnote 69:</b><a href="#footnotetag69"> +(return) </a> The physicians have a very superior and general knowledge +of the virtues of herbs and plants.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.</span></p> + +<p>The nails and palms of the hands are stained +red with henna<a id="footnotetag70" name="footnotetag70"></a> +<a href="#footnote70"><sup class="sml">70</sup></a>, cultivated there: the Arabs +tatoo their hands and arms, but not the people +of Timbuctoo. These people are real negroes; +they have a slight mark on the face, sloping +from the eye; the Foulans have a horizontal +mark; the Bambarrahees a wide gash from the +forehead to the chin. Tombs are raised over the +dead; they are buried in a winding-sheet and a +coffin: the relations mourn over their graves, +and pronounce a panegyric on the dead. The +men and women mix in society, and visit together +with the same freedom as in Europe. +<a name="p35" id="p35"></a><span class="pagenum">[35]</span> +They sleep on mattresses, with cotton sheets and +a counterpane; the married, in separate beds in +the same room. They frequently bathe the +whole body, their smell would otherwise be +offensive; they use towels brought from India. +At dinner they spread their mats and sit as in +Barbary. They smoke a great deal, but tobacco +is dear; it is the best article of trade. Poisoning +is common; they get the poison from the +fangs of snakes, but, he says, most commonly +from a part of the body near the tail, by a kind +of distillation. Physic, taken immediately after +the poison, may cure, but not always; if deferred +two or three days, the man must die: the +poison is slow, wastes the flesh, and produces a +sallow, morbid appearance. It causes great pain +in the stomach, destroys the appetite, produces +a consumption, and kills in a longer or shorter +time, according to the strength of constitution. +Some who have taken remedies, soon after the +poison, live 8 or 10 years; otherwise the poison +kills in 4 or 5 days. Physicians prescribe an +emetic, the composition of which he does not +know.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote70" +name="footnote70"></a><b>Footnote 70:</b><a href="#footnotetag70"> +(return) </a> A decoction of the herb henna produces a deep orange +die. It is used generally by the females on their hands and +feet: it allays the violence of perspiration in the part to +which it is applied, and imparts a coolness.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">NEIGHBOURING NATIONS.</span></p> + +<p>There are no Arabs between Timbuctoo and +the Nile; they live on the other side<a id="footnotetag71" name="footnotetag71"></a> +<a href="#footnote71"><sup class="sml">71</sup></a>, and +would not with impunity invade the lands of +<a name="p36" id="p36"></a><span class="pagenum">[36]</span> +these people, who are very populous, and could +easily destroy any army that should attempt to +molest them. The lands are chiefly private property. +The Foulans are very beautiful. The +Bambarrahs have thick lips and wide nostrils. +The king of Foulan is much respected at Timbuctoo; +his subjects are Muhamedans, but not +circumcised.<a id="footnotetag72" name="footnotetag72"></a> +<a href="#footnote72"><sup class="sml">72</sup></a> They cannot be made slaves at +Timbuctoo; but the Arabs steal their girls and +sell them; not for slavery, but for marriage.</p> + +<p>Girls are marriageable very young; sometimes +they have children at ten years old.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote71" +name="footnote71"></a><b>Footnote 71:</b><a href="#footnotetag71"> +(return) </a> North of the town.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote72" +name="footnote72"></a><b>Footnote 72:</b><a href="#footnotetag72"> +(return) </a> All true Muhamedans are circumcised, so that they +must partake of Paganism if uncircumcised.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p37" id="p37"></a><span class="pagenum">[37]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h3>JOURNEY</h3> + +<h4><span class="sc">From</span></h4> + +<h2>TIMBUCTOO TO HOUSA.</h2> +<hr class="short"> +<br> + +<p>Shabeeny, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, +departed for Housa: and crossing the +small river close to the walls, reached the Nile +in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, +cultivated country, abounding in trees, +some of which are a kind of oak, bearing a large +acorn<a id="footnotetag73" name="footnotetag73"></a> +<a href="#footnote73"><sup class="sml">73</sup></a>, much finer than those of Barbary, which +are sent as presents to Spain. Travelling is perfectly +safe. They embarked on the Nile in a +large boat with one mast, a sail, and oars; the +current was not rapid: having a favourable +wind, on his return, he came back in as short a +time as he went. The water was very red and +sweet.<a id="footnotetag74" name="footnotetag74"></a> +<a href="#footnote74"><sup class="sml">74</sup></a> The place where they embarked is +<a name="p38" id="p38"></a><span class="pagenum">[38]</span> +called Mushgreelia; here is a ferry, and opposite +is a village. As the current is slow, and +they moored every night, they were eight or ten +days sailing down the stream to Housa. They +had ten or twelve men on board, and when it was +calm, or the wind contrary, they rowed; they +steered with an oar, the boat having no rudder. +He saw a great many boats passing up and down +the river; <i>there are more boats</i><a id="footnotetag75" name="footnotetag75"></a> +<a href="#footnote75"><sup class="sml">75</sup></a> <i>on this river +between Mushgreelia and Housa than between +Rosetta and Cairo on the Nile of Egypt</i>. A great +many villages are on the banks. There are +boats of the same form as those of Tetuan and +Tangiers, but much larger, built of planks, and +have ribs like those of Barbary; instead of pitch +or tar, they are caulked with a sort of red clay, +or bole. The sail is of canvas of flax (not cotton) +brought from Barbary, originally from Holland; +it is square. They row like the Moors, going +down the stream.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote73" +name="footnote73"></a><b>Footnote 73:</b><a href="#footnotetag73"> +(return) </a> Called El Belûte. These acorns are much prized by +the Muhamedans, and are considered a very wholesome +fruit.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote74" +name="footnote74"></a><b>Footnote 74:</b><a href="#footnotetag74"> +(return) </a> The word hellue, in Arabic, which signifies literally, +sweet, here implies that the water was pure and good.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote75" +name="footnote75"></a><b>Footnote 75:</b><a href="#footnotetag75"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's Marocco, page 314, 2d or 3d edition.</blockquote> + +<p>There is a road by land from Timbuctoo to +Housa, but on account of the expense it is not +used by merchants: Shabeeny believes it is +about 5 days' journey. If you go this way, you +must cross the river before you reach Housa. +They landed at the port of Housa, distant a day +and a half from the town; their merchandise was +carried from this port on horses, asses, and horned +cattle; the blacks dislike camels; they say, +"<i>These are the beasts that carry us into slavery</i>."</p> + +<p><a name="p39" id="p39"></a><span class="pagenum">[39]</span></p> + +<p>The country was rich and well cultivated; they +have a plant bearing a pod called mellochia, +from which they make a thick vegetable +jelly.<a id="footnotetag76" name="footnotetag76"></a> +<a href="#footnote76"><sup class="sml">76</sup></a> There is no artificial road from Timbuctoo +to the Nile; near the river the soil is +miry. Shabeeny travelled from Timbuctoo to +Housa in the hot weather when the Nile was +nearly full; it seldom falls much below the level +of its banks; he travelled on horseback from Timbuctoo +to the river, and slept two nights upon +the road in the huts of the natives. One of +the principal men in the village leaves his hut +to the travellers and gives them a supper; in the +mean time he goes to the hut of some friend, +and in the morning receives a small present for +his hospitality.<a id="footnotetag77" name="footnotetag77"></a> +<a href="#footnote77"><sup class="sml">77</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote76" +name="footnote76"></a><b>Footnote 76:</b><a href="#footnotetag76"> +(return) </a> The pod of the mellochia, which grows near Sallee and +Rabat, is of an elongated conical form, about two inches +long.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote77" +name="footnote77"></a><b>Footnote 77:</b><a href="#footnotetag77"> +(return) </a> This is a common custom in West and South Barbary; +they always clear a tent for the travellers.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">THE RIVER NEEL OR NILE.</span></p> + +<p>The Neel El Kebeer<a id="footnotetag78" name="footnotetag78"></a> +<a href="#footnote78"><sup class="sml">78</sup></a>, (that is, the Great Nile,) +like the Neel Masser or Nile of Egypt, is fullest +<a name="p40" id="p40"></a><span class="pagenum">[40]</span> +in the month of August, when it overflows in +some places where the banks are low; the water +which overflows is seldom above midleg; the +banks are covered with reeds, with which they +make mats. Camels, sheep, goats, and horses, +feed upon the banks, but during the inundation +are removed to the uplands. The walls of the +huts both within and without are cased with +wood to the height of about three feet, to preserve +them from the water; the wells have the best +water after the swelling of the river. The flood +continues about ten days; the abundance of rice +depends on the quantity of land flooded. He +always understood that the Nile empties itself +in the sea, the salt sea or the great ocean. There +is a village at the port of Housa where he +landed, the river here is much wider than where +he embarked, and still wider at Jinnie. He saw +no river enter the Nile in the course of his +voyage. It much resembles the Nile of Egypt, +gardens and lands are irrigated from it. Its +breadth is various; in some places he thinks it +narrower than the Thames at London, in others +much wider; at the landing place they slept in +the hut of a native, and next morning at sunrise +set off for Housa, where they arrived in twelve +hours through a fine plain without hills; the +country is much more populous than between +Timbuctoo and the Nile. Ferry boats are to +be had at several villages.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote78" +name="footnote78"></a><b>Footnote 78:</b><a href="#footnotetag78"> +(return) </a> Properly Enneel. El is the article; but when it precedes +a word beginning with a letter called a labial, it takes +the sound of that letter. This error is committed throughout +a book, lately published, entitled Specimens of Arabic +Poetry, by J.D. Carlyle, Professor of Arabic in the University +of Cambridge, 2d edition p. 53, Abdalsalam, instead +of Abdassalum; p. 59, Ebn Alrumi, instead of Ebn Arrumi; +and p. 65, Alnarhurwany, for Annarhurwany, &c. &c.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p41" id="p41"></a><span class="pagenum">[41]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">HOUSA.</span></p> + +<p>They did not see the town till they came +within an hour from it, or an hour and a +half; it stands in a plain. Housa is south-east<a id="footnotetag79" name="footnotetag79"></a> +<a href="#footnote79"><sup class="sml">79</sup></a> +of Timbuctoo, a much larger city and nearly +as large as London. He lived there two years, +but never saw the whole of it. It has no walls; +the houses are like those of Timbuctoo, and +form irregular lanes or streets like those of Fas +or Marocco, wide enough for camels to pass with +their loads. The palace is much larger than that +of Timbuctoo; it is seven or eight miles in circumference +and surrounded by a wall; he remembers +but four gates, but there may be more; he thinks +the number of guards at each gate is about 50; +it is in that part of the town most distant from +the Nile. The houses are dark coloured and +flat roofed. He thinks Cairo is about one-third +larger than Housa; the streets are much wider +than those of Timbuctoo; the houses are covered +with a kind of clay of different colours but +never white. They have no chalk or lime in the +country.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote79" +name="footnote79"></a><b>Footnote 79:</b><a href="#footnotetag79"> +(return) </a> Rather south-east by east.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">GOVERNMENT.</span></p> + +<p>If the king has children, the eldest, if a man +of sense and good character, succeeds; otherwise, +one of the others is elected. The grandees +of the court are the electors. If the eldest son +<a name="p42" id="p42"></a><span class="pagenum">[42]</span> +be not approved, they are not bound to elect +him; he has, however, the preference, and after +him the other sons; but the choice of the council +must be unanimous, and if no person of the +royal line be the object of their choice, they +may elect one of their own body. The members +of the council are appointed by the king; +he chooses them for their wisdom and integrity, +without being limited to rank: the person appointed +cannot refuse obedience to the royal +mandate. The council consists of many hundreds. +The governor who controls the police +lives in the centre of the town.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">THE ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE</span></p> + +<p>Is very similar to that of Timbuctoo, except +that the king is perfectly despotic; and though +he consults his council, he decides as he thinks +proper. The governor administers justice in +small affairs; but, in important cases, he refers +the parties to the king and council, of which he +is himself a member. No torture, is ever inflicted. +The governor employs a great number +of officers of police at a distance from the town. +If robberies are committed, the person robbed +must apply to the chief of the district, who +must find or take into custody the offender, or +becomes himself liable to make compensation +for the injury sustained.<a id="footnotetag80" name="footnotetag80"></a> +<a href="#footnote80"><sup class="sml">80</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote80" +name="footnote80"></a><b>Footnote 80:</b><a href="#footnotetag80"> +(return) </a> This is also the law in West Barbary. When a robbery +is committed, the district where it has been committed is made +liable for double the amount; the half goes to the person +robbed, and the other half to the treasury. The good +effects of this law is admirable, insomuch that it has almost +annihilated robbery: but when one has actually been committed, +the energy and exertion of every individual is directed +to discover the depredator, and they seldom fail to +discover him. The fear of the penalty also makes them +very cautious who they admit among them; and very inquisitive +respecting the character and vocation of all, strangers +in particular, who sojourn in their country!!</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p43" id="p43"></a><span class="pagenum">[43]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">LANDED PROPERTY.</span></p> + +<p>They have a class of men whose peculiar business +it is to adjust all disputes concerning land; +the office is hereditary; <i>the offender</i> pays the +compensation, and also the fees of these officers; +<i>the innocent</i> pays nothing. When lands +are bought, these officers measure them. There +is a plant resembling a large onion, which serves +as a land-mark; if these are removed, (which +cannot be easily done without discovery) reference +is had to the records of the sale, of which +every owner is in possession; they express the +sum received; the quantity, situation, and limits +of the land. These are given by the seller, and +are written in the language and character of the +country, very different from the Arabic. The +same letters are used at Timbuctoo. They write +from right to left. The character<a id="footnotetag81" name="footnotetag81"></a> +<a href="#footnote81"><sup class="sml">81</sup></a> was perfectly +unintelligible to Shabeeny. Children, whose father +is dead, succeed to the same portion of their +<a name="p44" id="p44"></a><span class="pagenum">[44]</span> +grandfather's property as their father would, had +<i>he</i> out outlived <i>his</i> father, though there are +other issue of the grandfather. The rules of +succession are the same as at Timbuctoo.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote81" +name="footnote81"></a><b>Footnote 81:</b><a href="#footnotetag81"> +(return) </a> Possibly the ancient Carthaginian character.</blockquote> + +<p>Persons of great landed property, of which +there are many, employ agents or stewards; +they let the lands, and the rents are paid sometimes +in kind, and sometimes in gold-dust and +cowries. Houses are let by the month. He +paid four Mexico dollars per month; but a native +would not have paid above two for the same +house. A man who has five Mexico dollars<a id="footnotetag82" name="footnotetag82"></a> +<a href="#footnote82"><sup class="sml">82</sup></a> a +month, is esteemed in easy circumstances; +those, however, who have 30 or 40 per month, +are common.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote82" +name="footnote82"></a><b>Footnote 82:</b><a href="#footnotetag82"> +(return) </a> Ten dollars worth of rice is sufficient for the +daily food of a man a twelve-month.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">REVENUES.</span></p> + +<p>The king has 2 per cent. on the produce of +the land. The revenues arise from the same +sources as at Timbuctoo, but are much larger. +Foreign merchants pay nothing, as the Housaeens +think they ought to be encouraged. The +revenue is supposed to be immense.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">ARMY.</span></p> + +<p>He cannot precisely tell the number of troops, +but believes the king can raise 70,000 to 80,000 +horse, and 100,000 foot. The horses are poor +and small, except a few kept for the king's own +<a name="p45" id="p45"></a><span class="pagenum">[45]</span> +use. He has no well-bred mares. Their arms +are the same as at Timbuctoo; the muskets, +which are matchlocks, are made in the country. +They are very dexterous in throwing the +lance. Gunpowder is also manufactured there; +the brimstone is brought from Fas; the charcoal +they make; and he believes they prepare the +nitre.<a id="footnotetag83" name="footnotetag83"></a> +<a href="#footnote83"><sup class="sml">83</sup></a> Their arrows are feathered and barbed; +the bows are all cross-bows, with triggers; the +arrows, 20 to 40 in a quiver, are made of hides, +and hang on the left side. The king never goes +to war in person. The soldiers have a peculiar +dress; their heads are bare; but the officers +have a kind of turban; the soldiers have a shirt +of coarse white cotton, and yellow slippers; +those of the officers are red. Some have turbans +adorned with gold. They carry their +powder in a leather purse; the match, made of +cotton, is wound round the gun; they have +flint and steel in a pouch, and also spare matches.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote83" +name="footnote83"></a><b>Footnote 83:</b><a href="#footnotetag83"> +(return) </a> The saltpetre and brimstone are probably derived from +Terodant in Suse, where both abound.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">THE TRADE</span></p> + +<p>Is similar to that of Timbuctoo; in both places +foreign merchants always employ agents, or +brokers, to trade to advantage; a man should +reside sometime before he begins. Ivory is sold +by the tooth; he bought one, weighing 200 lb. +for five ducats (1<i>£. 5s.</i>); he sold it in Marocco +for 25 ducats, per 100 lb.; it is now<a id="footnotetag84" name="footnotetag84"></a> +<a href="#footnote84"><sup class="sml">84</sup></a> worth 60.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote84" +name="footnote84"></a><b>Footnote 84:</b><a href="#footnotetag84"> +(return) </a> A.D. 1795.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p46" id="p46"></a><span class="pagenum">[46]</span></p> + +<p>The king cannot make any of his subjects slaves. +They get their cotton from Bengala.<a id="footnotetag85" name="footnotetag85"></a> +<a href="#footnote85"><sup class="sml">85</sup></a> They +have no salt, it comes from a great distance, +and is very dear. Goods find a much better +market at Housa than at Timbuctoo. There +are merchants at Housa from Timboo, Bornoo, +Moshu, and India; the travelling merchants do +not regard distance. From Timboo and other +great towns he has heard, and from his own +knowledge can venture to assert, that they bring +East India goods. Gold-dust, ivory, and slaves +are the principal returns from Housa. The +people of Housa have slaves from Bornoo, +Bambarra, Jinnie, Beni Killeb<a id="footnotetag86" name="footnotetag86"></a> +<a href="#footnote86"><sup class="sml">86</sup></a> (sons of dogs), +and Beni Aree (sons of the naked); they are, +generally, prisoners of war, though many are +stolen when young, by people who make a trade +of this practice. The laws are very severe +against this crime; it requires, therefore, great +cunning and duplicity; no men of any property +are ever guilty of it. The slave stealers take +the children by night out of the town, and sell +them to some peasant, who sells them to a third, +and so from hand to hand, till they are carried +out of the country; if this practice did not exist, +there would be few slaves for the Barbary market. +Beyond the age of fourteen or fifteen, a slave +is hardly saleable in Barbary. Few merchants +<a name="p47" id="p47"></a><span class="pagenum">[47]</span> +bring to Housa above two or three slaves at a +time; but there are great numbers of merchants +continually bringing them. His own slave was +a native of Bambarra, and was brought very +young to Timbuctoo. Slaves are generally stupid; +but his, on the contrary, was very sensible; +he understood several languages, particularly +Arabic; he bought him as an interpreter; he +would not have sold publicly for above twenty +ducats; but he gave 50 for him; his master parting +with him very reluctantly. He bought +two female slaves at Housa, at 15 ducats each.<a id="footnotetag87" name="footnotetag87"></a> +<a href="#footnote87"><sup class="sml">87</sup></a> +The value of slaves has since then doubled in +Barbary; he does not know the present<a id="footnotetag88" name="footnotetag88"></a> +<a href="#footnote88"><sup class="sml">88</sup></a> price at +Timbuctoo. At Timbuctoo not ten slaves in the +hundred bought there, are females; when bought, +the merchant shuts them up in a private room, +but not in chains, and places a centinel at the +door: when the confidence of any of them is +supposed to be gained, they are employed as +centinels. Housa having a great trade, is much +frequented by people from Bambarra, Foulan, +Jinnie, and the interior countries.</p> + +<p>Manufactures and husbandry are similar to +those at Timbuctoo.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote85" +name="footnote85"></a><b>Footnote 85:</b><a href="#footnotetag85"> +(return) </a> Bengal, or the East Indies.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote86" +name="footnote86"></a><b>Footnote 86:</b><a href="#footnotetag86"> +(return) </a> Properly Ben Ekkilleb, or Hel Ekkileb, i.e. the +canine-race. These are described to be swift of foot and low of +stature, having a language peculiar to themselves.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote87" +name="footnote87"></a><b>Footnote 87:</b><a href="#footnotetag87"> +(return) </a> About the 1790th year of the Christian era.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote88" +name="footnote88"></a><b>Footnote 88:</b><a href="#footnotetag88"> +(return) </a> In the year 1795.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">CLIMATE.</span></p> + +<p>The hot winds blow from the east; the summer +is hotter than in Marocco, and hotter at +<a name="p48" id="p48"></a><span class="pagenum">[48]</span> +Timbuctoo than at Housa. The cold winds are +from the west: the morning fog is great. He +never saw it rain at Housa, in the course of two +years; he says it never rains there. Scarcity is +never known. A considerable part of their +provisions is brought from the banks of the +Nile; the river, when overflowing, never reaches +above half way from its common channel towards +Housa. They have excellent wells in +their houses, but no river near the town.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">ZOOLOGY.</span></p> + +<p>He saw no camels at Housa, but heard, they +use them to fetch gold, and cover their legs with +leather, to guard them from snakes. They +have dogs and cats, but no scorpions or snakes +in their houses. Lice, bugs, and fleas abound. +He saw no wild animals or fowl in the neighbourhood +of Housa.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">DISEASES.</span></p> + +<p>Physicians agree with the patient for his cure. +No cure no pay. The prevailing diseases are +colds and coughs.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">RELIGION.</span></p> + +<p>The same as at Timbuctoo; the poorer classes, +as in most countries, have many superstitious +notions of spirits, good and bad, and are alarmed +by dreams, particularly, the slaves, some of +whom cannot retain their urine in the night, as +he thinks, from fear of spirits, they take them +<a name="p49" id="p49"></a><span class="pagenum">[49]</span> +often upon trial when they buy them, and if +they have this defect, a considerable deduction +is made in the price. A man possessed by a +good spirit is supposed to be safe amidst 10,000 +shot. A man guilty of a crime, who in the opinion +of the judge is possessed by an evil spirit, is not +punished! He never heard of a rich man being +possessed.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">PERSONS.</span></p> + +<p>They are of various sizes, but the tallest man +he ever saw was at Housa. The city being very +large, he seldom had an opportunity of seeing +the king, as at Timbuctoo. He saw him but +twice in two years, and only in the courts of +justice; he was remarkable for the width of his +nostrils, the redness of his eyes, the smoothness +of his skin, and the fine tint of his perfectly +black complexion.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">DRESS.</span></p> + +<p>Like that of Timbuctoo, their turbans are +of the finest muslin. The sleeves of the soldiers +are small, those of the merchants wide. The +former have short breeches, the latter long. +The officers dress like the merchants, each according +to his circumstances. The caftan is +of silk, in summer, brought from India; instead +of the silk cords worn by the king of Timbuctoo, +the king of Housa wears two silk sashes, three +fingers broad, one on each shoulder; they are +richly adorned with gold; in one hangs his +<a name="p50" id="p50"></a><span class="pagenum">[50]</span> +dagger, and when he rides out, his sword in the +other; he wears not the silk pear in his turban, +as does the king of Timbuctoo. The front of +his turban is embroidered with gold.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">BUILDINGS.</span></p> + +<p>The houses are like those at Timbuctoo, but +many much larger. They have no wind or +water-mills, but they have stone mills, turned +by horses.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">MANNERS.</span></p> + +<p>They never bow. An inferior kisses the hand +of a superior; to an equal he nods the head, +gives him his hand and asks him how he does. +The women do the same.</p> + +<p>The general body are honest and benevolent, +the lower class is addicted to thieving. They +are very careful of children, to prevent their +being stolen. Snakes do not frequent cultivated +lands, so that animals are not there in danger +from them. The people of Timbuctoo and Housa +resemble each other in their persons and in their +manners. They castrate bulls, sheep, and goats, +but never horses. Supper is the principal meal. +They do not use vessels of brass or copper in +cookery; they are all of earthenware. At sunset +the watchmen are stationed in all parts of +the town, and take into custody all suspected or +unknown persons. They have lamps made of +wood and paper; the latter comes from Fas. +Women of respectability are attended by a slave +<a name="p51" id="p51"></a><span class="pagenum">[51]</span> +when they walk out or visit, which they do with +the same freedom as in Europe. The women ride +either horses or asses, they have no mules; the +men commonly prefer walking, they are strong +and seldom sensible of fatigue, which he attributes +to their having a rib more than white men. +Some bake their own bread, others buy it, as in +England. They make leavened bread of allila<a id="footnotetag89" name="footnotetag89"></a> +<a href="#footnote89"><sup class="sml">89</sup></a> +and bishna; the cattle-market is within the city, +in a square, appropriated to this purpose. There +are a great many rich men, some by inheritance, +others by trade. Every morning the doors of the +rich are crowded with poor, the master sends +them food, rice, milk, &c. They have names +for every day. They make their own pipes for +smoking, the tubes are of wood. They have +songs, some with chorus, and some sung by two +persons in alternate stanzas. They have the +same feasts once a quarter as at Timbuctoo. +The king has but one wife, but many concubines. +The favourite slaves of the queen of Housa are +considered as superior to the queen of Timbuctoo.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote89" +name="footnote89"></a><b>Footnote 89:</b><a href="#footnotetag89"> +(return) </a> Millet and Indian corn.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">GOLD.</span></p> + +<p>The ground where it is found is about sixteen +miles from Housa. They go in the night with +camels whose legs and feet are covered to protect +them against snakes, they take a bag of sand, +and mark with it the places that glitter with gold; +<a name="p52" id="p52"></a><span class="pagenum">[52]</span> +in the morning they collect where marked, and +carry it to refiners, who, for a small sum, separate +the gold. There are no mountains or rivers near +the spot, it is a plain without sand, of a dark +brown earth. Any person may go to seek +gold; they sell it to the merchants, who pay a +small duty to the king. The produce is uncertain; +he has heard that a bushel of earth has +produced the value of twelve ducats, three +pounds sterling, of pure gold. They set out +from Housa about two o'clock in the afternoon, +arrive about sun-set, and return the next day +seeking for gold during the whole night.</p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">LIMITS OF THE EMPIRE</span></p> + +<p>Beyond Timboo, on the north side of the +Nile, are very extensive. Afnoo is subject to the +king of Housa, no slaves can be made from thence. +Darfneel is near Afnoo; the latter is on the north +side of the river, nearer to its source, and a great +way from Timbuctoo. No Arabs are found on +the banks of the Nile. He supposes the circumference +of the empire to be about twenty-five +days' journey; has heard that many other large +towns are dependent upon it, but does not remember +their names.</p> + +<p>The neighbouring countries are Bambarra, +Timboo, Mooshee, and Jinnie; all negroes. +He has heard of Bernoo<a id="footnotetag90" name="footnotetag90"></a> +<a href="#footnote90"><sup class="sml">90</sup></a> as a great empire.</p> +<p><a name="p53" id="p53"></a><span class="pagenum">[53]</span></p> + +<p>On the 31st of March, 1790, Shabeenee gave +further information, in the presence of Lord +Rawdon<a id="footnotetag91" name="footnotetag91"></a> +<a href="#footnote91"><sup class="sml">91</sup></a>, Mr. Stuart, and Mr. Wedgewood. +Mr. Wedgewood proposed the questions, and +Mr. Dodsworth interpreted. The following is +some of the information, omitting what has been +noticed already.</p> + +<p>Between Timbuctoo and Housa, there is a +very good trade. Timbuctoo is tributary to the +king of Housa. The imports into Timbuctoo<a id="footnotetag92" name="footnotetag92"></a> +<a href="#footnote92"><sup class="sml">92</sup></a> +are spices, corn, and woollens from Barbary, +and linens from the sea-coast.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote90" +name="footnote90"></a><b>Footnote 90:</b><a href="#footnotetag90"> +(return) </a> Ber Noh, or Bernoh, <i>i.e.</i> the country of +Noah, is said by the Africans, to be the birth-place of the +patriarch Noah.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote91" +name="footnote91"></a><b>Footnote 91:</b><a href="#footnotetag91"> +(return) </a> Now the Marquis of Hastings.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote92" +name="footnote92"></a><b>Footnote 92:</b><a href="#footnotetag92"> +(return) </a> For a more detailed account of the imports +to Timbuctoo, see Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c.</blockquote> + +<p>The written character is very large, perhaps +half an inch long. The empire is divided into +provinces; the provinces into districts. The +king appoints the governors of both; but the +son of the deceased governor is understood to +have the preference.</p> + +<p>They make their pottery by a wheel, but do +not glaze it. The wheel turns upon a pivot +placed in a hole in the ground: at top and bottom +are two pieces of wood like a tea-table; the +lower, which is largest, is turned by the foot, +and the upper forms the vessel. When they +make a large pot, they put on the top a larger +piece: the pots are dried in the sun or burnt in +the fire. The iron mines are in the desert; the +iron is brought in small pieces by the Arabs, +who melt and purify it. They cannot cast iron. +<a name="p54" id="p54"></a><span class="pagenum">[54]</span> +They use charcoal fire, and form guns and +swords with the hammer and anvil. The points +of their arrows are barbed with iron; the crossbows +have a groove for the arrow. No man can +draw the bow by his arm alone, they have a kind +of lever; the bow part is of steel brought from +Barbary, and is manufactured at Timbuctoo. +They do not make steel themselves.</p> + +<p>They inoculate for the small-pox; the pus is +put into a dried raisin and eaten. "<i>Rooka Dindooka</i>" +is a kind of oath, and means, by God. +They believe only one God. After dinner they +use the Arabic expression, El Hamd Ulillah; +praise to be to God.<a id="footnotetag93" name="footnotetag93"></a> +<a href="#footnote93"><sup class="sml">93</sup></a></p> + +<p>They believe the immortality of the soul, and +that both men and women go to paradise; that +there is no future punishment; the wicked are +punished in this world. Happiness, after death, +consists in being in the presence of God. They +are not circumcised. A divorce may take place +while a woman is pregnant, but she cannot +marry again till delivered. As soon as a woman +is divorced, midwives, women brought up to that +profession, examine her to see whether she is +pregnant.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote93" +name="footnote93"></a><b>Footnote 93:</b><a href="#footnotetag93"> +(return) </a> This is the Arabic, or Muhamedan grace after meat; +the grace before meat is equally sententious, viz. Bismillah, +i.e. in the name of God.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><img alt="" src="images/002-small.png"></p> +<p class="mid"><a href="images/002-large.png">Larger format</a></p> + +<p><a name="p55" id="p55"></a><span class="pagenum">[55]</span></p> +<br><br> + + +<h2>LETTERS</h2> + +<h4>CONTAINING</h4> + +<h3>AN ACCOUNT OF JOURNIES</h3> + +<h4>THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF</h4> + +<h2>WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY,</h2> + +<h3>AT DIFFERENT PERIODS,</h3> + +<h3><i>PERFORMED PERSONALLY BY J.G.J.</i></h3> + +<hr class="short"> +<br> + +<h3>LETTER I.</h3> + + + +<p><i>On the opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz in +Suse, and of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid, +to the Dutch.</i></p> + +<p class="mid"><span class="sc">TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ.</span></p> + +<p class="mid">(Late British Consul for Senegambia) Eversholt, near Woburn,<br> +Bedfordshire.</p> + +<p class="rig">Mogodor, 28th February, 1792.</p><br><br> + +<p>The emperor has consented to the proposition +of the Dutch government, to open the port of +Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the province of +Suse, to the commerce of that nation; and I +have finally resolved to establish a house there, +so soon as the sultan Yezzid's order respecting +that port shall reach the hands of Alkaid Aumer +ben Daudy, the governor of this port. There +are various political intrigues in agitation, to +deter me from going personally to establish the +commerce of this most desirable and long-neglected +<a name="p56" id="p56"></a><span class="pagenum">[56]</span> +port of Santa Cruz. The governor +anticipates a considerable diminution in the +treasury of Mogodor; and the merchants of this +place anticipate a great diminution of the various +articles of produce of this fine country, +seeing that the principal articles of exportation +from the empire of Marocco are produced in +the province of Suse, and in the neighbourhood +of Santa Cruz.</p> + +<p>The stream of commerce will, therefore, necessarily +be converted from Mogodor to Santa +Cruz. The merchants of Fas also, who have +their establishments and connections at Timbuctoo, +and in other parts of Sudan, will resort to +Santa Cruz in preference to Mogodor, for all +European articles calculated for the markets of +Sudan, the former port being in the neighbourhood +of the desert, or Sahara, and at a convenient +distance from Akka in Lower Suse, the +general rendezvous of the akkaba, (or accumulated +caravans,) destined for the interior regions +of Africa or Sudan. This akkaba starts annually +for Timbuctoo, consisting of 2000 or 3000 +camels, loaded with merchandise from Fas, +Tetuan, Sallee, Mogodor, Marocco, Tafilelt, +Draha, and Terodant. The port of Santa Cruz +is hence aptly denominated <i>Beb Sudan</i>, i.e. the +gate or entrance of Sudan. +<a name="p57" id="p57"></a><span class="pagenum">[57]</span> +The port of Santa Cruz was formerly farmed +by the emperor<a id="footnotetag94" name="footnotetag94"></a> +<a href="#footnote94"><sup class="sml">94</sup></a> Muley Ishmael, to some European +power, for 50,000 dollars a-year, as I have +been informed; others say it was purchased of +him by his own Jewish subjects, for the purposes +of trade. However this may have been, no advantage +was ever taken of the favourable opportunity +then offered, of opening and securing to +Europe an extensive and lucrative trade with +the various countries of Sudan or Nigritia.</p> + +<p>I can account for this omission only by supposing +that the interior of Africa was then less +known than even it now is; and that the merchants +then established at Santa Cruz, had there +sufficient advantages in commerce to engage +their attention, without examining into this immense +undiscovered mine of wealth!</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote94" +name="footnote94"></a><b>Footnote 94:</b><a href="#footnotetag94"> +(return) </a> Great-grandfather of Muley Soliman, the present emperor, +who is denominated Soliman ben Muhamed ben Abdallah +ben Ismael.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p58" id="p58"></a><span class="pagenum">[58]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER II.</h3> + +<p><i>The Author's arrival at Agadeer or Santa Cruz.--He +opens the Port to European Commerce.--His favourable +Reception on landing there.--Is saluted by the +Battery.--Abolishes the degrading Custom that had +been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on +Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the +Jews.--Of a Sanctuary at the Entrance of the Town, +which had ever been considered Holy Ground, and none +but Muhamedans had ever before been permitted to enter +the Gates on Horseback. +</i></p> + +<p class="mid"> TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="rig"> Santa Cruz, 7th March, 1792.</p><br><br> + +<p><i>The emperor's<a id="footnotetag95" name="footnotetag95"></a> +<a href="#footnote95"><sup class="sml">95</sup></a> letter ordering the port of Santa +Cruz to be opened to the Dutch</i>, having reached +Mogodor, and having received my instructions +from Webster Blount, Esq. Dutch consul-general +to this empire, to act as agent for him at +that port, until my appointment be ratified and +confirmed by the States General, of which he +informs me there is no doubt, I proceeded +hither in the Snell Zee Post, Dirk Morris, +master; and after being becalmed off (Affernie) +Cape de Geer, I arrived here the third morning +after my departure from Mogodor. I sent my +horses by land; and on our approach to the +<a name="p59" id="p59"></a><span class="pagenum">[59]</span> +shore, I discovered them approaching the mountain +on which Santa Cruz stands. Soon after +we came to anchor in the road, the boats came +off, and the battery, which is situated about +half-way up the mountain on the western declivity, +saluted me with 8 guns, (the Muhamedans +always saluting with an even number.) +This compliment being unexpected, we were +about half an hour preparing to return it, when +we saluted the battery with 9 guns. The captain +of the port received me with great courtesy, +and was ordered by the bashaw El Hayanie, +governor of Santa Cruz, to pay the most unqualified +attention to my wishes. I landed +amidst an immense concourse of people, assembled +on the beach to witness the re-establishment +of their port, most of whom were without +shoes, and very ill clad.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote95" +name="footnote95"></a><b>Footnote 95:</b><a href="#footnotetag95"> +(return) </a> See specimens of Arabic epistolary correspondence, +Appendix, Letter 9th.</blockquote> + +<p>The most hearty exclamations of joy and approbation +were manifested by the people when +I landed; a merchant was come to establish, +once more, that commerce by which the fathers +of the present generation had prospered; and +their sons appeared to know full well the advantages +that again awaited their industry, which +for 30 years had not been exercised. I mounted +my horse on the beach, amidst the general acclamations +of the people, and ascended the +mountain, on the summit of which is the town. +On my arrival at the gate, I was courteously +received by the bashaw's sons; who, however, +informed me that the entrance of Santa Cruz was +<a name="p60" id="p60"></a><span class="pagenum">[60]</span> +ever considered holy ground, and that Christians, +during its former establishment, always descended +and entered the town on foot, intimating +at the same time that it was expected I +should do the same. I had been before cautioned +by Mr. Gwyn, the British consul at Mogodor, +not to expostulate at this request, as it would +certainly be required of me to conform to ancient +usages. But I knew too well the disposition of +the people, and the great desire that pervaded +all ranks to have the port established; I therefore +turned my horse, and told the bashaw's +sons, that I was come, with the blessing of God, +to bring prosperity to the land, to make the poor +rich, and to improve the condition and multiply +the conveniences of the opulent; that I came to +establish commerce for <i>their</i> advantage, not for +mine; that it was indifferent to me whether I +returned to Mogodor or remained with them. +The sons of the bashaw became alarmed, and +entreated me, with clasped hands, to wait till +they should report to the bashaw my words and +observations. I consented, and soon after they +returned with their father's earnest request that +I should enter a-horseback: old customs, said +the venerable old bashaw when, immediately +afterwards, I met him in the street; old customs +are abolished, enter and go out of this town +a-horseback or a-foot, we desire the prosperity +of this port, and that its commerce may flourish; +<i>All the people of Suse hail you as their deliverer, +God has sent you to us to turn the desert into</i> +<a name="p61" id="p61"></a><span class="pagenum">[61]</span> +(jinen afia) <i>a fruitful garden; come, and be welcome, +and God be with you.</i></p> + +<p>I was conducted to the best house in the +town, a house which belonged to our predecessor, +Mr. Grover; and I was informed, that if +any demur had been made by the bashaw respecting +my entrance through the sanctuary or +holy ground, it might have caused an immediate +insurrection; so anxious and impatient were all +ranks of people for the new establishment of +this eligible port of Suse.</p> + +<p>The privilege thus established, of riding in +and out of the town, I continued; and I procured +it immediately afterwards for all Christians! +even masters of ships and common +sailors.</p> + +<p><a name="p62" id="p62"></a><span class="pagenum">[62]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER III.</h3> + +<p><i> +The Author makes a Commercial Road down the Mountain, +to facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy +and Liberality of the Natives, in working gratuitously +at it.--Description of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie. +--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength of Santa Cruz, +of the Town of Aguzem, and the Portuguese Spring +and Tank there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and +build a Fort.--Eligibility of the Situation of Santa +Cruz, for a Commercial Depot to Supply the whole of +the Interior of North Africa with East India and European +Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to +Commerce and Industry, if Opportunity offered. +</i></p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="rig">Santa Cruz, 20th March, 1792.</p><br><br> + +<p>The road up the mountain of Santa Cruz was so +dangerous and impassable, that I undertook to +repair it; accordingly, I agreed with a Shilluh +to make it safe and convenient for transporting +goods for shipment; and such was the eager desire +of the people for the establishment of the +port, that hundreds brought stones and assisted +gratuitously in the construction of this road; +so that what would have cost in England thousands +of pounds, was here completed for a few +hundred dollars.</p> + +<p>The natives of this long-neglected territory +were too acute not to perceive the field of wealth +that was thus opened to their industry; they +were convinced, from the traditions of their +<a name="p63" id="p63"></a><span class="pagenum">[63]</span> +fathers, of the incalculable benefits that would +arise from a commercial reciprocity; and they +were determined to cultivate the opportunity +that was now offered to put them in possession +of those commercial advantages which their +fathers had enjoyed before: the benefits of which +they had often related to their children, when +they talked of the prosperity and riches of the +country during the reign of Muley Ismael, when +this port was before open to foreign commerce. +Agreeably to these well-founded anticipations, +the genial influence of commerce began, soon +after my arrival, to manifest itself throughout all +ranks and denominations of men; <i>the whole +population visibly improved in their apparel and +appearance; new garments were now becoming +common, and were every where substituted for +the rags and wretchedness before witnessed on +landing here.</i></p> + +<p>About four miles east of Santa Cruz, in a +very romantic valley surrounded by mountains, +are found the ruins of a Portuguese tower. +<i>Tildie</i>, which is the name of this place, abounds +in plantations of the most delicious figs, grapes +of an enormous size and exquisite flavour, citrons, +oranges, water-melons, walnuts, apricots in great +abundance, and peaches, &c. &c.</p> + +<p>I invited a party of Arabs to accompany me +to this delightful retreat, where we dined: the +Arabs killed two sheep; one they roasted whole +on a wooden spit, made on the spot; the other +they baked whole in an oven made for the purpose, +<a name="p64" id="p64"></a><span class="pagenum">[64]</span> +in the following manner: A large hole +was dug in the ground; the inside was plaistered +with clay; after which they put fire in the hole +till the sides were dry; they then put the sheep +in, and the top was covered by clay in the form +of an arch, fashioned and constructed by the +hand only; they afterwards made a large +trough round this temporary oven, and filled +it with wood, to which they set fire. The +sheep was about three hours preparing in this +manner, and it was of exquisite flavour; the +roasted mutton also was equally well flavoured. +No vegetables were served with this repast; for +I had desired that the fare should be precisely according +to their own custom; I therefore declined +interfering with the arrangement of the food. +This mode of cooking is in high estimation with +travellers. These people never eat vegetables +with their meat. When they see Europeans +eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of vegetables, +they express their surprise, observing +that the taste of the vegetables destroys the taste +of the meat; and <i>vice versa</i>, that the taste of +the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables!</p> + +<p>The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit +of a branch of the Atlas, by the Portuguese, is +enclosed by a strong wall, fortified with bastions +mounting cannon; it is about a mile in circumference. +Half way down the mountain, on the +western declivity, opposite the sea, stands a +battery, which defends the town, towards the +north, south, and west, at the foot of the mountain. +<a name="p65" id="p65"></a><span class="pagenum">[65]</span> +Westward, on the shore of the sea, stands +a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the natives of +this country,) Agurem. There is a copious +spring of excellent water at Agurem, built and +ornamented by the Portuguese, when they had +possession of this country, and called by them +<i>Fonté</i>, which name the town still retains, and is +so called by Europeans. The royal arms of +Portugal are seen, carved in stone, over the +tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water +from here, having none but rain-water in the +town, which is collected in the rainy season, +and preserved in subterraneous apartments, +called mitferes<a id="footnotetag96" name="footnotetag96"></a> +<a href="#footnote96"><sup class="sml">96</sup></a>, one of which is attached to +every respectable house, and contains sufficient +for the consumption of the family during the +year. The natural position of Santa Cruz +is extremely strong, perhaps not less so than +Gibraltar, though not on a peninsula; and +it might, in the hands of an European +power, be made impregnable with very little +expense; it might also be made a very convenient +and most advantageous depot for the +establishment of an extensive commerce with +<a name="p66" id="p66"></a><span class="pagenum">[66]</span> +the whole of the interior of North Africa. An +attempt of this kind was made about forty or +fifty years since, by the Danes, who anchored +with several ships, and landed a mile south of +Agurem; and with stones, all ready cut, and +numbered, erected on an eminence<a id="footnotetag97" name="footnotetag97"></a> +<a href="#footnote97"><sup class="sml">97</sup></a>, by the +dawn of the following day, a battery of twelve +guns. But by a stratagem of the bashaw El +Hayanie, who at that time was bashaw of Suse, +they were rendered unable to retain possession +of their fort; their plans were accordingly disconcerted, +and the adventurers retreated, and +returned to their ships.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote96" +name="footnote96"></a><b>Footnote 96:</b><a href="#footnotetag96"> +(return) </a> The mitfere under my house at Santa Cruz, contained, +when full, four hundred pipes of water. At the termination +of the rainy season in March, it was generally about two-thirds +full, supplied from the flat roof or terras during the +rainy season. There was always much more than we could +consume, accordingly great quantities were distributed +among the poor, about the close of the season, or the autumn +previous to the next rainy season.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote97" +name="footnote97"></a><b>Footnote 97:</b><a href="#footnotetag97"> +(return) </a> Called Agadeer Arba.</blockquote> + +<p>At the south-east extremity of the wall of +Santa Cruz there is a round battery, which protects +the town from west to east; and might +be made to protect the valley to the east of the +mountain. This battery, with a little military +skill, might be made to protect every access +to the town, not protected by the battery before +mentioned, which is situated about half +way up the western declivity of the mountain, +and which commands or secures the fonte, or +spring, against an attack from any hostile force.</p> +<p><a name="p67" id="p67"></a><span class="pagenum">[67]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER IV.</h3> + +<p class="mid"><i>Command of the Commerce of Sudan.</i></p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="rig">Santa Cruz, May 5, 1792.</p><br><br> + +<p>If Great Britain were to purchase the port +of Santa Cruz of the emperor, for a certain +annual stipend, we should be enabled to command +the whole commerce of Sudan, at the +expense of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt; +not at the expense of Marocco, because an equivalent, +or what the emperor would consider as +such, would be given in exchange for it; and +we should then supply all those regions with +merchandise, at the first and second hand, which +they now receive through four, five, and six. +We should thus be enabled to undersell our +Moorish competitors, and thus draw to our +commercial depot, all the gold-dust, gold-bars, +and wrought-gold, gum-sudan, (commonly called +in England, Turkey gum-arabic), ostrich feathers, +and other articles the produce of Sudan; besides +the produce of Suse, viz. gum-barbary, sandrac, +euphorbium, and ammoniac, almonds, olive oil, +wine, &c., together with the richest fruits of +every kind. These we should take in barter for +our manufactures.</p> +<p><a name="p68" id="p68"></a><span class="pagenum">[68]</span></p> + +<p>The road of Santa Cruz is very safe, and the +best in the empire of Marocco; it is defended +from the fury of the tremendous gales that +visit this coast in December and January, and +which invariably blow from the south, by a +projection of land that extends gradually from +the river Suse to cape Noon, very far westward +into the ocean. During my residence of several +years at this summit of Atlas, not one ship was +wrecked or lost; there is plenty of water, and +good anchorage for ships of the line.</p> + +<p>A thousand European troops, directed by a +vigilant and experienced captain, might take the +place by a <i>coup de main</i>; and the natives, +(after a proper explanation and assurance that +trade was the object of the capture,) would +probably become allies of the captors, and +would supply in abundance all kind of provisions. +They esteem the English, and denominate +them their brothers.<a id="footnotetag98" name="footnotetag98"></a> +<a href="#footnote98"><sup class="sml">98</sup></a> They sorely +regret the loss of trade occasioned by the +emperor's restrictions, and would gladly promote +the cultivation of commerce if they had an +opportunity. They have been from time immemorial +a trading generation.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote98" +name="footnote98"></a><b>Footnote 98:</b><a href="#footnotetag98"> +(return) </a> <i>N'henna û l'Ingleez Khowan</i>, they say, +"we and the English are brothers."</blockquote> +<p><a name="p69" id="p69"></a><span class="pagenum">[69]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER V.</h3> + +<p class="mid">FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">My dear sir,</span></p> + +<p>I have this moment received your favour, dated +yesterday, and am extremely sorry I had not +the pleasure of seeing you before your departure. +We might have taken a farewell dinner +together. You will most highly oblige me +by communicating to me all the intelligence +you can collect concerning the interior of +Africa, more especially of Timbuctoo; its trade, +government, geographical situation, and the +manners and customs of its inhabitants. If you +could send me too, any of its products or manufactures, +which may appear to you curious or +interesting, or may serve to shew the state of +knowledge and civilisation in the country, and +the progress they may have made in the arts, in +manufactures or commerce, you will confer +upon me a singular favour; the expense of +which I will readily repay, and which I shall be +happy to return whenever I can be of use to you. +If ever this region of Africa, which excites so +strongly our curiosity, should be laid open to us, +you are, of all the men with whom I am acquainted, +the best qualified, and the most likely +to lead the way to this important discovery. +I request you to favour me with your correspondence; +let me hear from you as frequently +<a name="p70" id="p70"></a><span class="pagenum">[70]</span> +as possible, without ceremony, and as one who +wishes to be considered as an old friend. When +peace returns, I shall certainly take my station +in Senegambia<a id="footnotetag99" name="footnotetag99"></a> +<a href="#footnote99"><sup class="sml">99</sup></a>, where we may then be fellow-labourers +in the same vineyard. There is no +news yet of Park; perhaps you would like +to know how he proceeds; and as I expect +to hear of him by the return of my ship, I +will inform you, if you wish it; and, in short, +will keep up a regular correspondence on my +part, if you will do the same on your's. Pray, +in what ship do you go? Perhaps, if you would +give me encouragement, I might venture into +a little commercial speculation to Santa Cruz. +I heartily wish you a pleasant voyage, health, +and success; and am, with great regard,</p> + +<p>My dear Sir,</p> + +<p class="mid">Very truly your's,</p> + +<p class="rig">J. WILLIS.</p><br><br> + +<p>August 12,1796.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote99" +name="footnote99"></a><b>Footnote 99:</b><a href="#footnotetag99"> +(return) </a> Mr. James Willis had the appointment of consul at +Senegambia, and was then waiting an opportunity of proceeding +thither.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p71" id="p71"></a><span class="pagenum">[71]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER VI.</h3> + +<p class="mid">FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">My dear sir</span>,</p> + +<p>I duly received your letter from Gibraltar, +and have made known to Government the expediency +of sending a person to Marocco, to +oppose the influence of the French and +Spaniards; but I cannot yet say with certainty +whether the measure will be adopted or not; +if it should, you may rely upon my attention +to your interest. I have given your name to +the secretary of state, and have spoken of you +with that distinction, which I think, without +any flattery, your qualifications justly deserve.</p> + +<p>Peace still appears to be at a great distance, +since the late negociations; yet, as nothing is +so uncertain as an event of this kind, it may +come upon us, (as the last peace did) like a +thief in the night, when we least expect it. +You will have, I have no doubt, frequent opportunities +of procuring information concerning +Timbuctoo, and other places in the interior of +Africa. Your knowledge of the language, +customs, and commerce of that continent, give +you advantages which few possess upon this +ground; and I assure you, every kind of information +will be greedily received here, concerning +those regions; especially that which +<a name="p72" id="p72"></a><span class="pagenum">[72]</span> +relates to their commerce, civilisation, customs, +geography, and language.</p> + +<p>I request as a favour that you would write +me as often as possible; exclusive of the interest +I take in all that relates to the politics and +commerce of Africa, (particularly of the interior,) +to hear of your own individual welfare, +will give me the sincerest pleasure.</p> + +<p>I remain, my dear Sir,</p> + +<p class="mid">Your's very sincerely,</p> + +<p class="rig">J. WILLIS.</p><br><br> + +<p> +No. 67. Harley-street, London,<br> +2d February, 1796.</p> + +<p>We have no letters from Mr. Park, since he +left the river Gambia; but we have heard from +others, that he had proceeded in safety above +two-thirds of the journey. We expect soon to +hear of his return. If he succeeds, his fame +and fortune will be worthy of envy.</p> +<p><a name="p73" id="p73"></a><span class="pagenum">[73]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER VII.</h3> + +<p><i>Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles the Customs' +Duties of Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abd El +Melk, with the Garrison and Merchants of Santa Crux, +ordered to go to the Court at Marocco.--They cross +the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the Country +and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains +through which the Author passed.--Chasm in the +Mountain.--Security of Suse from Marocco, originating +in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas.--Extensive +Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait +Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco Plains.--Fine +Corn.--Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the +Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Prince +Abd El Melk's magnificent Apparel, reprobated by the +Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz, shut to the Commerce +of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Mogodor.--The +Prince banished to the </i>Bled Shereef<i> or +Country of Princes, viz., Tafilelt, of the Palace at +Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the Country. +--Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith +and Integrity of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial +Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of Irrigation.--Attar of +Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (Attar being the Word +signifying a Distillation.)--State of Oister Shells, on +the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor +and Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas.--Description +of the Author's Reception on the Road from +Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or Sahara of +Mogodor.</i></p> + +<p class="mid"> TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ.</p> + +<p class="rig"> Santa Cruz, March 15, 1797.</p><br><br> + +<p>When the emperor Soliman proceeded from +Fas with a numerous army to the south, he +doubled the export and import duties at Mogodor, +<a name="p74" id="p74"></a><span class="pagenum">[74]</span> +viz., from six to twelve per cent., payable in +kind. Those of Santa Cruz remained as before, +but so soon as his imperial majesty reached +Marocco, he sent orders for the prince Abd El +Melk, who is his nephew and governor of Santa +Cruz, with the garrison, together with the merchants, +to proceed to Marocco; accordingly +we all departed, the prince having first engaged +a revered (fakeer) saint to accompany the army +across the Atlas mountains, the fastnesses of +which it appeared no army would be permitted to +pass, without the protection of this fakeer. We +departed about noon, and passed through the +plains of the Arab province of Howara<a id="footnotetag100" name="footnotetag100"></a> +<a href="#footnote100"><sup class="sml">100</sup></a>, a very +fine country; we pitched our tents at sunset, +near a sanctuary, where we had all kinds of +provisions sent to us, in great abundance: we +continued our journey the following morning +through the plains, and about the middle of the +day we reached the foot of Atlas.</p> + +<p>This country abounds in extensive plantations +of olives, almonds, and gum trees; some plants of +the (<i>fashook</i>) gum ammoniac are here discovered. +Vines producing purple grapes of an enormous +size and exquisite flavour: (<i>dergmuse</i>) the Euphorbium +plant is discovered in rocky parts of the +mountains; and great abundance of worm-seed +and stick-liquorice.<a id="footnotetag101" name="footnotetag101"></a> +<a href="#footnote101"><sup class="sml">101</sup></a> The indigo plant (<i>Enneel</i>) +<a name="p75" id="p75"></a><span class="pagenum">[75]</span> +is found here; as are also pomegranates, of a +large size and a most exquisitely sweet flavour, and +oranges. Ascending the Atlas, after five hours' +ride, we reached a table-land, and pitched our tents +near a sanctuary. The temperature of the air is +cooler here, and the trees are of a different character; +apples, pears, cherries, walnuts, apricots, +peaches, plums, and rhododendrums, were the +produce of this region. The next morning at +five o'clock, the army struck their tents, and +after ascending seven hours more, we met with +another change in vegetation. Leguminous +plants began to appear; pines of an immense +size, ferns, <i>the belute</i>, a species of oak, the +acorn of which is used as food, and is preferred +to the Spanish chesnut; elms, mountain-ash, +<i>seedra</i> and <i>snobar</i>, the two latter being a species +of the juniper. After this we passed through +a fine campaign country of four hours' ride: +we were informed that this country was very populous; +but our fakeer and guide avoided the +habitations of men. We now began again to +ascend these magnificent and truly romantic +mountains, and in two hours approached partial +coverings of snow. Vegetation here diminishes, +and nothing is now seen but firs, whose tops +appear above the snow; the cold is here intense; +and it is remarkable, that, the pullets' +eggs that we procured in the campaign country +just described, were nearly twice the size of +those of Europe. Proceeding two hours further, +we came to a narrow pass, on the east side of +<a name="p76" id="p76"></a><span class="pagenum">[76]</span> +which was an inaccessible mountain, almost perpendicular, +and entirely covered with snow; and +on the west, a tremendous precipice, of several +thousand feet in depth, as if the mountain had +been split in two, or rent asunder by an earthquake: +the path is not more than a foot wide, +over a solid rock of granite. Here the whole +army dismounted, and many prostrated in +prayer, invoking the Almighty to enable them +to pass in safety; but, however, notwithstanding +all possible precaution, two mules missed +their footing, and were precipitated with their +burdens into the yawning abyss. There is no +other pass but this, and that of Belawin, which +is equally dangerous for an army; so that the +district of Suse, which was formerly a kingdom, +might be defended by a few men, against an invading +army from Marocco of several thousands, +by taking a judicious position at the +southern extremity of this narrow path and tremendous +precipice, which is but a few yards in +length. Proceeding northward through, this defile, +we continued our journey seven hours, +(gradually descending towards the plains of +Fruga, a town of considerable extent, distant +about fifteen miles from the mountains.) Proceeding +two hours further, making together +nine hours' journey, the army pitched their +tents, and we encamped on another table-land, +on the northern declivity of Atlas, at the +entrance of an immense plantation of olives, +about a mile west of a village, called Ait Musie, +<a name="p77" id="p77"></a><span class="pagenum">[77]</span> +a most luxuriant and picturesque country. The +village of Ait Musie contains many Jews, whose +external is truly miserable; but this appearance +of poverty is merely political, for they are a +trading and rich people, for such a patriarchal +country. The olive plantations at this place, +and in many other parts of this country, do +honour to the agricultural propensity of the emperor +Muley Ismael, who planted them. They +cover about six square miles of ground; the +trees are planted in right lines, at a proper distance; +the plantation is interspersed with openings, +or squares, to let in the air. These openings +are about a square acre in extent.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote100" +name="footnote100"></a><b>Footnote 100:</b><a href="#footnotetag100"> +(return) </a> migration from this tribe attacked and took the city +of Assouan, in Egypt, some years ago. Vide Burckhardt's +Travels in Nubia.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote101" +name="footnote101"></a><b>Footnote 101:</b><a href="#footnotetag101"> +(return) </a> This root abounds all over Suse, and is called by the +natives <i>Ark Suse, i.e.</i> the foot of Suse: the worm-seed +is called sheh.</blockquote> + +<p>In travelling through the various provinces of +South and West Barbary, these extensive plantations +of olives are frequently met with, and +particularly throughout Suse. It appeared that +they were all planted by the emperor Muley +Ismael, whose indefatigable industry was proverbial. +Wherever that warrior (who was always +in the field) encamped, he never failed to employ +his army in some active and useful operation, +to keep them from being devoured by the +worm of indolence, as he expressed it. Accordingly +wherever he encamped, we meet with these +extensive plantations of olive trees, planted by +his troops, which are not only a great ornament +to the country, but produce abundance of fine +oil. The olive plantations at Ras El Wed, near +Terodant in Suse, are so extensive, that one +may travel from the rising to the setting sun +<a name="p78" id="p78"></a><span class="pagenum">[78]</span> +under their shade, without being exposed to the +rays of the effulgent African sun.</p> + +<p>We remained encamped at Ait Musie<a id="footnotetag102" name="footnotetag102"></a> +<a href="#footnote102"><sup class="sml">102</sup></a> three +days, amusing ourselves by hawking with the +prince's falconer, and hunting the antelope. +Early in the morning of the fourth day, we descended +the declivity of the Atlas, and travelling +eight hours, we reached the populous town of +Fruga, situated in the same extensive plain +wherein the city of Marocco stands. From this +village to Marocco, a day's journey, the country +is one continued corn-field, producing most +abundant crops of wheat and barley, the grain +of which is of an extraordinary fine quality, +and nearly twice the size of the wheat produced +at the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote102" +name="footnote102"></a><b>Footnote 102:</b><a href="#footnotetag102"> +(return) </a> Here the prince sent couriers to the emperor, +to announce his approach.</blockquote> + +<p>On our approach to the metropolis, the emperor +sent the princes that were at Marocco to +welcome the prince Abd El Melk. They were +accompanied by 100 cavalry, who saluted our +prince with the Moorish compliment of running +full gallop and firing their muskets. These +princes, who were relations of Abd El Melk, son +of Abd Salam, shook hands with him respectively, +and then kissed their own. This is the salutation +when friends of equal rank meet. We entered +the city of Marocco at the <i>Beb El Mushoir</i>, +which is the gate situated near the palace and +place of audience, towards the Atlas mountains. +The next day I had an audience of the emperor, +<a name="p79" id="p79"></a><span class="pagenum">[79]</span> +who received me in (the <i>Jenan En neel</i>) +the garden of the Nile, a small garden adjoining +the palace, containing all the fruits and plants +from the Nile<a id="footnotetag103" name="footnotetag103"></a> +<a href="#footnote103"><sup class="sml">103</sup></a> of Egypt. The (<i>worde fillelly</i>) +Tafilelt-rose grows in great luxuriance in this +garden, resembling that of China; the odour is +very grateful and strong, perfuming the air to +a considerable distance. This is the rose, from +the leaves of which the celebrated (<i>attar el +worde</i>) <i>i.e.</i> distillation of roses is made, vulgarly +called in Europe, <i>otto</i> of roses.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote103" +name="footnote103"></a><b>Footnote 103:</b><a href="#footnotetag103"> +(return)</a>: This orthography, <i>Nile</i>, has been imported +from France; with the French it is pronounced as we pronounce Neel; +and this is the intelligible pronunciation in Africa.</blockquote> + +<p>The emperor declared the port of Santa Cruz +to be shut; and that no European merchant of +any nation should continue there. He gave me +my choice, either to quit the country, or establish +a house at Mogodor. I entreated a short time +to consider which I should choose, which was +readily granted.</p> + +<p>The prince Abd El Melk was magnificent in +his apparel, the Emperor dressed very plain; +these were two incompatible propensities, the +latter had probably heard of the prince's extravagance +in this respect, and chose to moralise +with him by comparing his own parsimonious and +plain apparel to <i>his</i> costly attire; and insinuating +that the iron buckle to his belt answered every +purpose of a gold one, reprimanded the prince +for the extravagance and vanity of his wardrobe, +and acquainted his Highness that the port of +<a name="p80" id="p80"></a><span class="pagenum">[80]</span> +Santa Cruz should no longer remain open to +European commerce. The prince remained some +days after this notification at Maroco; an annual +stipend was allowed him and he was sent to (the +<i>Bled Shereef, i.e.</i> the country of princes, viz.) +Tafilelt, and had apartments allotted him in the +Imperial Palace at that place, which is very magnificent +and extensive. It is built of marble +collected for the most part from the <i>Kaser +Farawan</i> or ruins of Pharaoh, an ancient city now +in ruins, contiguous to the sanctuary of Muley +Dris Zerone, east of the city of Mequinas, on +the western declivity of the Atlas; this marble +was transported across the mountains of Atlas +on camels, a distance of fifteen journies to Tafilelt. +The inhabitants of this part of Bled Eljereed +live principally on dates, which abound so in +this country that the fruit of one plantation is +commonly sold for 1000 dollars, producing 1500 +camel load of dates, or 4500 quintals; there are +thirty-five species of this rich fruit, of which the +<i>butube</i> is unquestionably the best and the most +wholesome; it is rich, of a fine flavour, and sweet +as honey: the <i>buscré</i> is also good; but so dry +and full of saccharine matter that it resembles a +lump of sugar. Undoubtedly if this country were +in the hands of Europeans they would extract +sugar, perhaps as much as 150 lb. from a camel +load of dates weighing 300 lb. The <i>adamoh</i> is +the date that is imported to this country; it is +the best for keeping, but at Tafilelt they use it +only for the cattle, considering it an unwholesome +kind and heavy of digestion. The country +<a name="p81" id="p81"></a><span class="pagenum">[81]</span> +from the eastern declivity of Atlas to Tafilelt, +and to the eastward of Tafilelt, even unto +Seginmessa is one continued barren plain of a +brown sandy soil impregnated with salt, so that +if you take up the earth it has a salt flavour; the +surface also has the appearance of salt, and if +you dig a foot deep, a brackish water ooses up. +On the approach, to within a day's journey of +Tafilelt, however, the country is covered with +the most magnificent plantations and extensive +forests of the lofty date, exhibiting the most +elegant and picturesque appearance that nature, +on a plain surface, can present to the admiring +eye. In these forests there is no underwood, +so that a horseman may gallop through them +without impediment. Wheat is cultivated near +the river, and honey is produced of an exquisite +quality. The faith and honour of the (filelly) +inhabitants of Tafilelt is proverbial; a robbery +has not been known within the memory of man; +they use neither locks nor keys, having no need +of either!</p> + +<p>Having had my audience of leave of the Emperor, +I prepared to proceed to Mogodor, but +before I describe the country through which we +passed thither, it may not perhaps be uninteresting +to give some account of the Imperial +gardens at Marocco, which are three, the <i>Jenan +Erdoua</i>, the <i>Jenan El Afia</i>, and the <i>Jenan +En. neel</i>: the last is confined to plants brought +from the Egyptian Nile. The <i>Jenan El Afia</i>, and +the <i>Jenan Erdoua</i>, contain oranges, citrons, vines, +<a name="p82" id="p82"></a><span class="pagenum">[82]</span> +figs, pomegranates, water and musk melons, +all of exquisite flavour. The orange and fig +trees are here as large as a middling sized +English oak. Roses are so abundant at Marocco +that they grow every where, and have +a most powerful perfume, insomuch that one +rose scents a large room; all other flowers are +in abundance, and many that are nursed with +care in English hot-houses are seen in the Marocco +plains growing spontaneously. These +gardens, as well as others throughout the +country, are watered by the Persian or Arabian +wheel, with pitchers fixed to it, which discharge +the water into a trough or tank; as the +pitchers rise and turn over their contents into +this tank, the water is communicated to the +garden and inundates the plants. Departing +from Marocco to Mogodor, the first day's +journey is through the plains of Sheshawa, a +fine campaign country abounding in corn; the +mountains of Sheshawa, which are higher than +any in Great Britain, have strata of oyster and +other shells at the top of them. We encamped +at the foot of these mountains; I had the +curiosity to examine the depth of these strata +of shells, and found them several feet deep, and +extending all the way down the mountains. +The rivers Sheshawa and Wed Elfees water +these plains. The next day's journey brought us +to a sanctuary, where we met very good entertainment, +that is, such as the country affords, +plenty of good provisions and hospitable treatment. +<a name="p83" id="p83"></a><span class="pagenum">[83]</span> +The next evening we encamped at a place +called <i>Dar El Hage Croomb</i>, a very picturesque +situation, where we were hospitably entertained; +the Sheik coming to drink tea with me, related +the history of his ancestors and traced his +descent through many generations of warriors, +whose dextrous management of the lance was +the burden of the story. The next day, after +travelling about six hours, we arrived at the +extremity of the productive country, and entered +<i>El Grored</i>, or the desert of sandy hills, which +divide the rocky peninsula of Mogodor, from +the cultivated land; this Sahara consists of loose +sand-hills very fatiguing to the horses, and +although not more than three miles in width, +we were an hour and a half in crossing them, +before we entered the gate of Mogodor.</p> +<p><a name="p84" id="p84"></a><span class="pagenum">[84]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER VIII.</h3> + +<p class="mid">FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">My Dear Sir</span>, +<span class="rig">Harley-Street, London,<br> + 12th December, 1797.</span> +</p><br> + +<p>I thank you warmly for your intelligence concerning +the interior of Africa, and beg you will +continue to favour me with all the information +you can collect upon this subject. Mr. Park +has been almost as far as Jinnie, but did not +reach Timbuctoo; he is now on his way to +England, in an American ship, via America. +We are anxious for his arrival, which may be +expected in the course of the present month; +and all the Africani are extremely curious to +hear the detail of his most interesting journey, +which we hope will produce some authentic +knowledge, of a considerable part of those +regions, that have hitherto baffled all the ardour +and energy of European enquiry, though they +have always excited the curiosity of the most +eminent and enlightened men, both in past and +present times.</p> + +<p>I thank you also for the commercial intelligence +you have sent me.</p> + +<p>Do you know whether the emperor of Marocco +has any collection of books? If he has, +probably some ancient books, of great value, +might be found among them.</p> +<p><a name="p85" id="p85"></a><span class="pagenum">[85]</span></p> + +<p>I should consider it as a very great obligation +if you could procure, and send me any book or +manuscript in the character and language of +Timbuctoo. We are informed that, besides +the Arabic, they have a character of their own, +perfectly different.</p> + +<p>I remain, my dear Sir, +<span class="rig">Sincerely your's,<br> +J. WILLIS.</span></p> +<br><br> + +<hr class="short"><br><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Extract of a Letter to Mr. Jackson, from His Excellency<br> +J.M. Matra, British Envoy to Marocco, &c.</i></p> + +<p class="rig">Tangier, November 8, 1797.</p><br><br> + +<p>I have not yet received any answer from Sir +Joseph Banks to the letter from you, which I +sent to him. Should you be able to obtain any +information from Timbuctoo<a id="footnotetag104" name="footnotetag104"></a> +<a href="#footnote104"><sup class="104">104</sup></a>, or of the interior +of this country, which would gratify one's curiosity, +I will be very thankful for a slice of it.</p> + +<p> +I am ever, dear Jackson, +<span class="rig">Most faithfully your's,<br> +JAMES M MATRA.</span></p> +<br><br> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote104" +name="footnote104"></a><b>Footnote 104:</b><a href="#footnotetag104"> +(return) </a> All <i>my information</i> respecting Timbuctoo, will be found +in Jackson's Account of Marocco, Chapter XIII.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p86" id="p86"></a><span class="pagenum">[86]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER IX.</h3> + +<p><i>Custom of visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco.--Journey +of the Merchants thither on that occasion.--No +one enters the imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode +of travelling.--The Commercio.--Imperial +Gardens at Marocco.--Audience of the Sultan.--Amusements +at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of +Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia +at Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense +Height of the Atlas, east and south of Marocco.--Mode +of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of eating.--Trades +or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of +the Sultan.--Present received from the Sultan</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ.</p> + +<p class="rig">Mogodor, 1788.</p><br><br> + + +<p>The emperor having departed from Mequinas +where he passed the winter, to Marocco, his +summer residence, it becomes an incumbent +duty for all loyal subjects, to pay their respects +to him. All the bashaws of provinces, south of +the river Morbeya, which divides the northern +part of his dominions from the southern, as well +as all the alkaids or governors of towns and districts +under the authority of the bashaws of the +provinces, are expected to show their loyalty, by +obtaining permission to present themselves to the +imperial presence; when they give an account of +the state of the district which they respectively +<a name="p87" id="p87"></a><span class="pagenum">[87]</span> +govern. The bashaw of each province communicates +with the emperor, and determines which +of the alkaids<a id="footnotetag105" name="footnotetag105"></a> +<a href="#footnote105"><sup class="sml">105</sup></a> shall have the honour of presenting +themselves. On these occasions, that is, when the +emperor comes to Marocco, it is customary for the +merchants of Mogodor to perform the journey to +the metropolis<a id="footnotetag106" name="footnotetag106"></a> +<a href="#footnote106"><sup class="sml">106</sup></a> of the south, and to present his +imperial majesty with a present; indeed, it is +not the etiquette of this court for any one to +demand an audience (which the lowest subject +in the realm may claim) without being prepared +to present something; so that the poor may +have an audience by presenting half a dozen +eggs, or any similar trifle, such as some fruit or +flowers; but no one enters the imperial presence +(<i>khawie</i>, as they term it, <i>i. e.</i>) empty-handed. +The routine is this: The European merchants, +together with the house of Guedalla and Co., +who are native Jews, are called <i>el commercio;</i> +the commercio, therefore, solicit the honour of +presenting themselves to the emperor, to offer +their congratulations on his arrival; this is +acceded to, and the minister, who is denominated +the <i>talb cadus</i>, a term designating a +man who disperses orders and communications +to every one, writes a letter to the commercio, +<a name="p88" id="p88"></a><span class="pagenum">[88]</span> +expressive of the emperor's disposition to see +them, and requesting them to repair to his +presence: a guard is given by the alkaid of +Mogodor, and a present <i>ought</i> to be selected +of such articles as are not to be bought at +the markets of the country. A present consisting +of such articles, previously ordered +from Europe, and judiciously selected, is better +calculated to gratify the emperor, than ten +times the value injudiciously collected. The +merchants accordingly prepared themselves to +proceed to Marocco; some rode mules, some +horses, for there are no carriages in this country; +and every individual had his tent and +servants with him. We travelled three days +through a fine country, and reached the city +of Marocco the fourth day, in the afternoon, +travelling eight hours each day, at the rate of +four miles an hour. On our approach to the city, +we sent an express to the <i>talb cadus</i>, who, by the +imperial order, appropriated the emperor's garden, +<i>jinnen el afia</i>, for our reception, the pavilion +in which was appropriated to our service; we +preferred, however, in this delightful climate, +sleeping in our tents, which we were permitted +to pitch in this beautiful garden. We dined in +the <i>coba</i>, or pavilion. The (<i>talb cadus</i>) minister +paid us a visit, to say that the emperor requested +we would take the following day to rest from our +journey, and at eight o'clock on the following +morning, he would receive us; the present was +accordingly prepared, which was carried by +<a name="p89" id="p89"></a><span class="pagenum">[89]</span> +four-and-twenty men; every article (the bulky +ones excepted) being enveloped in a Barcelona +silk handkerchief. The emperor was in the +(<i>m'ushoir</i>) place of audience, on that side of the +city which faces the mountains of Atlas. At our +presentation we did not prostrate ourselves, but +bowed, in the European manner; the emperor +said, bono el commercio, a Spanish phrase which +he uses in interviews with Europeans, and which +is equivalent to his saying, you are welcome, +merchants. To this we replied, <i>Allah iberk +amer seedi</i>, God bless the life of my master. +The emperor asked if we were recovered from +the fatigue of our journey, and was quite +affable; he then said, communicate with the +effendi<a id="footnotetag107" name="footnotetag107"></a> +<a href="#footnote107"><sup class="sml">107</sup></a>, and whatever you want shall be granted +to you; for I am disposed to encourage and +(<i>amel el k'here</i>) to do good to my merchants. +The master of the audience then came to us, +and signified that we might depart; we made +our obeisance, and returned to our habitation. +This was the audience of introduction, which is +always short; the second audience is for business; +and the third is the audience of departure. +We remained encamped in the imperial garden +a fortnight before we had another audience; in +the mean time we amused ourselves in riding +about the country, and in visiting some of the +most respectable inhabitants, among whom was +<a name="p90" id="p90"></a><span class="pagenum">[90]</span> +the <i>cadus</i>, who has a noble mansion, replete with +every convenience, and a garden in the centre +of it. The rooms of this house were long and +narrow, with a pair of high doors in the centre +of the room, through which alone the light is +admitted; the floors were paved with small +glazed tiles, about two inches square, very +neatly fitted, and of different colours; the walls +were the same, a mode of building which in this +warm climate imparts a grateful coolness; the +ceilings are painted in the Araberque style, with +brilliant colours. The roofs are of terras, and flat, +having an insensible declivity, just sufficient to +give the rain that falls a course, which falling +into the pipes, is received in the (<i>mitfere</i>) a subterraneous +cistern, which supplies the family +with water the whole year, till the rainy season +returns again.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote105" +name="footnote105"></a><b>Footnote 105:</b><a href="#footnotetag105"> +(return) </a> In each province, or bashawick, there are several +alkaids or governors of districts.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote106" +name="footnote106"></a><b>Footnote 106:</b><a href="#footnotetag106"> +(return) </a> The city of Fas is the metropolis of the north, as Marocco +is of the south. Mequinas is the court town of the +north, and resembles the Hague, where few reside but such +as are employed in the service of the crown.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote107" +name="footnote107"></a><b>Footnote 107:</b><a href="#footnotetag107"> +(return) </a> This word was used by the seed, or emperor, in the +presumption that it is understood by Europeans; but <i>cadus</i> +is the Arabic term.</blockquote> + +<p>There is near to the walls of Marocco, +about the north-west point, a village, called +(<i>Deshira el Jeddam</i>) i.e. the Village of Lepers. +I had a curiosity to visit this village; but I was +told that any other excursion would be preferable; +that the Lepers were totally excluded +from the rest of mankind; and that, although +none of them would dare to approach us, yet +the excursion would be not only unsatisfactory +but disgusting. I was, however, determined +to go; I mounted my horse, and took two +horse-guards with me, and my own servant. +We rode through the Lepers' town; the inhabitants +collected at the doors of their habitations, +<a name="p91" id="p91"></a><span class="pagenum">[91]</span> +but did not approach us; they, <i>for the most +part</i>, showed no external disfiguration, but were +generally sallow; some of the young women +were very handsome; they have, however, a +paucity of eyebrow, which, it must be allowed, +is somewhat incompatible with a beauty; some +few had no eyebrows at all, which completely +destroyed the effect of their dark animated eyes. +They are obliged to wear a large straw hat, with +a brim about nine inches wide; this is their <i>badge +of separation</i>, a token of division between the clean +and unclean, which when seen in the country, +or on the roads, prevents any one from having +personal contact with them. They are allowed +to beg, and accordingly are seen by the side of +the roads, with their straw hat badge, and a +wooden bowl before them, to receive the charity +of passengers, exclaiming (<i>attanie m'ta Allah</i>) +"bestow on me the property of God;" (<i>kulshie +m'ta Allah</i>) "all belongs to God!" reminding +the passenger that he is a steward of, and accountable +for the appropriation of his property; +that he derives his property from the bounty +and favour of God. When any one gives them +money, they pronounce a blessing on him; as +(<i>Allah e zeed kherik</i>) "may God increase your +good," &c. The province of Haha abounds in +lepers; and it is said that the Arganic<a id="footnotetag108" name="footnotetag108"></a> +<a href="#footnote108"><sup class="sml">108</sup></a> oil, +which, is much used in food throughout this +picturesque province, promotes this loathsome +disease!</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote108" +name="footnote108"></a><b>Footnote 108:</b><a href="#footnotetag108"> +(return) </a> This oil, which is excellent, and generally used for +frying fish, should be thus prepared, according to the +learned Doctor Barata, who was pensioned physician to the +<i>Commercio</i> of Mogodor, by which preparation it becomes +perfectly wholesome, and deprived of any leprous or other +bad quality: Take a quart of Argan oil, and put in it a large +onion cut in slices; when it boils add a piece of crumb of +bread, equal in size to an onion, then let it boil a few +minutes more, take it off, let it cool, and strain the oil through +a sieve, and bottle it for daily use.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p92" id="p92"></a><span class="pagenum">[92]</span></p> + +<p>The chain of Atlas, east of Marocco, continually +covered with snow, gives a pleasant coolness +to the air of the city, in the summer +season, particularly in the morning and evening; +the coolness is generally said, however, to produce +ophthalmia.<a id="footnotetag109" name="footnotetag109"></a> +<a href="#footnote109"><sup class="sml">109</sup></a> These mountains are immensely +high, and their magnitude makes them +appear not more than five miles from the city. +It is, however, a day's journey to the foot of +them, after which the ascent is so gradual, that +it takes two days more to reach the snow. This +part of the chain of Atlas, east of the city of +Marocco, is seen at sea, twenty miles west of +Mogodor, which latter place is about 120 miles +from Marocco; it is 35 miles from the city of +<a name="p93" id="p93"></a><span class="pagenum">[93]</span> +Marocco to the foot of Atlas; and it is two +days' journey from the foot of Atlas to the +snow, which constantly covers the summit of +these immense mountains. They are thus seen +at a distance of 245 miles:</p> + +<pre> + 20 miles from land at sea. + 120 do. Mogodor to Marocco. + 35 do. Marocco to the foot of + the mountains. + 70 do. the foot of Atlas to the snow. + --- +Seen at 245 miles distance. + --- +</pre> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote109" +name="footnote109"></a><b>Footnote 109:</b><a href="#footnotetag109"> +(return) </a> Ophthalmic disorders prevail among the Jews of Marocco, +but are seldom seen among the Moors. The Jews +live in great filth at Marocco; the dung-hills and ruins are +in some places as high as the houses. The Muhamedan +doctrine does not allow the Moors to neglect personal +cleanliness, which, among these people, is a cardinal virtue; +and this, I presume, is the cause of their being, in a great +measure, exempt from ophthalmia, whereas the Jews, on the +contrary, are generally affected with it.</blockquote> + +<p>In this calculation, the direct distance in the +ascent of the mountain, is less than the travelling +distance; but without taking notice of the distance +from the border of the snow to the +summit of this lofty mountain, which is said to +be another day's journey, the one may balance +the other: we may therefore calculate 70 miles +as the direct longitudinal distance, although I +am persuaded it is much more from the foot +to the summit of that part of the Atlas which +is visible at sea.</p> + +<p>H.T. Colebrooke, Esq., in a paper inserted +in the Asiatic Transactions, vol. xii. asserts, +that it requires an elevation of 28,000 feet, for +an object to be visible at the distance of 200 +geographical miles; now 245 English miles are +<a name="p94" id="p94"></a><span class="pagenum">[94]</span> +equal to 211-1/2 geographical miles; consequently, +if Mr. Colebrooke be correct, the summit of +Atlas, east of Marocco and Dimenet, which is +seen at a distance of 211-1/2 geographical miles, +must be 29,610 feet high, or above five miles and +a half.</p> + +<p>Again, the chain of Atlas in Lower Suse, +which lies east of Elala, and which is constantly +covered with snow, is situated three days' +journey, horse travelling, east-south-east from +Elala, in Lower Suse; Elala is three days' +journey from Santa Cruz, horse travelling, +making together 180 miles: add for distance +from the foot of the Elala mountains to the +snow, 60 miles, and the Atlas in Lower Suse +will be seen at the distance of 240 miles, or +207 geographical miles.</p> + +<pre> + Thus, from Santa Cruz to the } +foot of the Atlas mountains, in the} 180 miles. +district of Elala, in Lower Suse } + + Add for distance from the foot } +of the Elala mountains to the } 60 +snow } + --- + So that the Atlas in Lower Suse, } +being seen at a distance of } 240 +</pre> + +<p>Or 207 geographical miles, must have an altitude +of 28,980 feet.</p> + +<p>On the north side of the city of Marocco is +a gate called <i>Beb El Khummes</i>, and near it is +held, every Thursday, a market called soke <i>El +Khummes</i>; at which immense quantities of +horses, camels, mules, asses, oxen, sheep, goats, +wheat and barley are sold; oils, gums, almonds, +dates, raisins, figs, bees' wax, honey, skins, +<a name="p95" id="p95"></a><span class="pagenum">[95]</span> +&c. &c. &c.; also, slaves, male and female. +Such a horse as would cost in London 50<i>l.</i>, sells +here for 50 dollars; a good mule sells for the +same, viz. 50 dollars; a bull, 12 dollars; a +cow, 15 dollars; sheep, a dollar and a half, +each; a goat, a dollar. Very fine large grained +wheat, which increases one-fifth in the grinding, +sells at one dollar per saa, or about half a dollar +per Winchester bushel. The slaves are conducted +through the market by the auctioneer (<i>delel</i>), who +exclaims, occasionally, (<i>khumseen reeal aal zeeada</i>, +i.e.) "50 dollars on the increase," till he +finds no one will advance; when he goes to the +owner and declares the price offered; the owner +then decides if he will sell or not; if he sells, +the money is paid immediately, but if not, he +takes his slave away with him, and tries him +again the next market-day, or waits in expectation +that this wretched article of trade will rise +in value.</p> + +<p>A stranger passing through Marocco would +consider it an irregular miserable town; but +the despotic nature of the government induces +every individual to secrete or conceal his opulence; +so that the houses of the gentry are surrounded +with a shabby wall, often broken or out +of repair, at a considerable distance from the +dwelling house, which does not appear, or is +invisible to the passenger. Some of these houses +are very handsome, and are furnished with +couches, circular cushions to sit on, and other +furniture, in all the luxury of the East. When a +<a name="p96" id="p96"></a><span class="pagenum">[96]</span> +visitor or a guest enters one of these houses, +slaves come in with perfumes burning, in compliment +to the visitor. Coffee and tea are then +presented in small cups, having an outer cup to +hold that which contains the liquor, instead +of a saucer; the sugar being first put into the +pot. The coffee or tea being poured out, already +sweetened with sugar, a negro boy generally +takes his station in one corner of a spacious +room, pours out the liquor, and sends it to the +guests by another boy. The tea table is a +round stand, about twelve inches from the +ground, at which the tea boy sits down on a +leather cushion, cross legged.</p> + +<p>When dinner is served, the food is in a large +dish or bowl, on a round stand, similar to that +above described; three, four, or more sit round +it; a servant comes to the company with a +ewer and napkin; each person wash their right +hand, and eat with their fingers; in the higher +circles, rose-water is used instead of plain; if +soup is served, they eat it with wooden spoons; +in this respect the emperor himself sets them +the example, who reprobates the use of the +precious metals with food.</p> + +<p>When the Moors sit down to eat; high and +low, rich and poor, (for I have partaken of food +with all ranks, from the prince to the plebeian,) +they invariably invoke God's blessing, previous +to the repast, and offer thanks at the conclusion. +Their first grace is, invariable, short, and comprehensive; +<i>bis'm illah</i>, "In the name of God." +<a name="p97" id="p97"></a><span class="pagenum">[97]</span> +The after grace is, <i>El Ham'd û littah</i>, "Praise +be to God."</p> + +<p>A very excellent dish is generally eaten in this +country, called <i>cuscasoe</i>; it is made with flour, +granulated into particles the size of a partridge +shot, which is, put over a steamer, till the steam +has sufficiently passed through it, so as to produce +the effect of boiling; it is then taken off, +broken, and returned to steam a second time; +in the meantime, a chicken or some meat is +boiling in the saucepan, under the steamer, with +onions, turnips, and other vegetables; when the +<i>cuscasoe</i> has been steamed a second time, it is +taken off, coloured with saffron, and mixed with +some butter, salt, and pepper, and piled up in +a large round bowl or dish, garnished with the +chicken or meat and vegetables. This is a very +nutritious, wholesome, and palatable dish, when +well cooked. It is in high estimation with +the Arabs, Moors, Brebers, Shelluhs, and Negroes. +When they sit down to eat, each person +puts his fingers into the dish before him; and +in respectable society, it is remarkable how +dextrously they jerk the food into their mouths, +which never come into contact with their +hands; so that this mode of eating is scarcely +objectionable, certainly not obnoxious, as some +travellers have represented it; but who probably +had associated with the lower ranks of society, +who, indeed, are not particular in these observances.</p> + +<p>All kind of trades are carried on at Marocco: +<a name="p98" id="p98"></a><span class="pagenum">[98]</span> +jewellers, goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, +tanners, &c. &c.; but that which is the most +honourable, is a shoe-maker, because Muhamed +himself was one. At Mequinas they make excellent +shoes, of leather impervious to water, +for 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> per pair.</p> + +<p>The time now approached for our audience +of business, and we had represented to the +<i>Talb Cadus</i>, that the export duties on some +articles were too heavy, viz. on wax, almonds, +and olive oil; also on certain imports, viz. iron, +steel, and Buenos Ayres hides; but no diminution +was obtained, except in the duty of bees' +wax. The emperor gave hopes of an exportation +of grain, and desired us to write to Europe +for ships to come and load wheat, barley, Indian +corn, caravances, beans, lentils, and millet. We +were favourably received; the emperor asked +several questions respecting Europe, and informed +us we should return to Mogodor in a +few days. Three days after this audience we +were ordered to meet the emperor in the <i>Jenan +En neel</i>, where we had our audience of leave, +and the emperor gave each of us a fine horse, +chosen by ourselves out of his own stable; and +we took our leave and departed for Mogodor +the following evening. We slept encamped under +the magnificent and lofty date trees, in the +neighbourhood of the city, the first night.</p> +<p><a name="p99" id="p99"></a><span class="pagenum">[99]</span></p> + + +<h3>LETTER X.</h3> + +<p class="mid">FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">My dear Sir</span> +<span class="rig">Harley-street, London,,<br> + September 10, 1798.</span></p><br><br> + +<p>I write to acknowledge the receipt of your +favour. I know no man better qualified than +yourself for the station of an African consul; +and really think, that to assist you in obtaining +such a post, is to render service to my country, +as well as to yourself. Your information concerning +the interior of Africa, and especially +concerning Timbuctoo, appears to me to be +more accurate, authentic, and extensive than +that of any other person I have met with; considerably +more so than that of any of the correspondents +of the African association. Mr. Park, +of whose return you are informed, has brought +home no addition to the stock of our knowledge +of that important place; though I think his +geographical communications are highly valuable, +particularly as they regard the river and +course, &c. of the Niger. This celebrated river +will, I think, in time be the channel of communication +between Europe and the interior of +Africa. It seems to penetrate into that continent, +in its widest and most interesting part; +if it should be navigable through its entire +course, we might hereafter make it the instrument +of the most important discoveries, and the +channel of the most valuable commerce. I +<a name="p100" id="p100"></a><span class="pagenum">[100]</span> +shall be much obliged to you for information +concerning this river, particularly as to its +termination. I suspect it discharges itself into +some interior sea or vast lake, like the Caspian; +unless, like the Burrampooter, after various and +extensive windings, it may return towards its +source, and fall into the Atlantic.</p> + +<p>You will have heard of the landing of a +French army in Egypt, under Buonaparte; the +French are enterprising, and if they should +penetrate from the eastward, while we advance +from the west, the interior of the African continent +may at length be laid open.</p> + +<p>I remain, my dear Sir, +<span class="rig">Your's sincerely,<br> + +J. WILLIS.</span></p><br><br> + +<p><a name="p101" id="p101"></a><span class="pagenum">[101]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XI.</h3> + +<p class="mid">FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">My dear Sir,</span> +<span class="rig">Harley-street, London,<br> +June 10.1800.</span></p><br> + +<p>I did not receive, till the 22d November, your +favour, dated 1st September last, for which I +beg you to receive my best thanks. I have +transmitted an extract of it to Lord Moira, Sir +Joseph Banks, and to a friend of mine, who is +a member of parliament, and has great influence +with his majesty's ministers; in order that he +may lay it before the secretary of state, in such +a manner as to draw his attention to it in the +most impressive and effectual manner; but I +much fear that the pressure of the war, and +its consequent effects; the arrangements of +finance, &c. will preclude their immediate support +to objects which they consider as of very +subordinate importance. The time is certainly +highly favourable for the cultivation of the +friendship of the emperor, and of other Muhamedan +sovereigns; now that the British arms +have preserved the principal empire of the +Moslems, by the victory at Aboukir, and the +defense of Acre; in consequence of which, +Egypt has been recovered, and one of the +sacred gates of the Caaba again opened to the +Mussulmen. This appears to be an event of +<a name="p102" id="p102"></a><span class="pagenum">[102]</span> +the highest consideration to the Muhamedans of +Africa, since it is by Grand Cairo, that the +western pilgrims communicate with Mecca.</p> + +<p>I suppose you have received the narratives, +published by Park and Browne, of their +respective journies and discoveries in the interior +of your continent; they have done much, +but much more still remains to be done; and +above all, the discovery of Timbuctoo and its +commercial relations.</p> + +<p>There is a captain Wild, now either at Tunis +or Algiers, preparing himself for this journey, (as +I am informed,) a man of intrepidity, judgment, +and enterprise; whom Sir Joseph Banks +writes me, he hopes to engage in the employment +of the African association.</p> + +<p>I assure you that I consider you, as the only +European that possesses any substantial and +interesting information concerning that part of +interior Africa, which we are most solicitous to +investigate; and, therefore, set a high value +upon whatever you are so good as to communicate. +I am also of opinion, that your plans +may very probably be adopted by administration, +when the return of peace shall leave their +minds at liberty to attend to it. +<p><a name="p103" id="p103"></a><span class="pagenum">[103]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XII.</h3> + +<p class="mid">FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">My dear Sir,</span> +<span class="rig">Harley-street, London,<br> + 5th May, 1801.</span> +</p><br> + +<p>I wrote you at considerable length on the +1st of June last, and assure you that none of +your letters, received prior to that date, have +remained unanswered. I have now to acknowledge +the receipt of your several favours, and +beg you to accept my best thanks, for your very +curious and valuable present of the gold ring +from Wangara, which has been shown to several +persons of great distinction, and even to the +king himself. <i>It is universally considered as a +great curiosity</i>; and I have taken care to make +it known that you are the person to whom I +am indebted, for the first <i>Wangarian</i> jewel that +has ever been seen in England. I have also +shown your letter, containing your judicious +opinions upon the course of the Niger<a id="footnotetag110" name="footnotetag110"></a> +<a href="#footnote110"><sup class="sml">110</sup></a>, and +other geographical points, to Sir Joseph Banks +and Major Rennell; and have invariably represented +you to them, and to others, as the +person possessing eminently the best information +concerning the interior of Africa; an object +which draws at present the earnest attention, +both of the learned and the great, and which +<a name="p104" id="p104"></a><span class="pagenum">[104]</span> +our late victories in Egypt, render more peculiarly +interesting.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote110" +name="footnote110"></a><b>Footnote 110:</b><a href="#footnotetag110"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's account of Marocco, last chapter.</blockquote> + +<p>I think, with you, it is probable there is a +communication by water between Jinnie and +Egypt; but I should rather imagine there is +some large lake or Mediterranean sea, like the +Caspian, for instance, into which the Niger may +discharge itself from the west, and a branch of +the Nile from the east. This idea seems to +reconcile the opinions of ancient geographers, +with those resulting from modern discoveries. +If we should be able to effect the complete conquest +of Egypt, and to retain that kingdom, +much light will probably soon be acquired upon +these interesting subjects.</p> +<p><a name="p105" id="p105"></a><span class="pagenum">[105]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XIII.</h3> + +<p><i>Journey from Mogodor, to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanctuary +of Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, to +the Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite +Country to L'Araich and Tangier.--Started from +Mogodor with Bel Hage as my</i> (Tabuk) <i>Cook, ana +Deeb as my</i> (Mûle Lukkerzana) <i>Tent Master.--Exportation +of Wool granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute +depopulated by the Plague.--Arabs, their Mode +of hunting the Partridge.--Observations respecting the +River Tansift.--Jerf El Eûdie, or the Jews' Pass.--Description +of Saffy, and its Port or Road.--Woladia +calculated to make a safe Harbour.--Growth of Tobacco.--Mazagan +described.--Azamor the Abode of +Storks.--Saneet Urtemma a dangerous Country.--Dar +El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described.--Mausoleum +of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of +Shella, a Roman Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road +of Rabat.--Productive Country about Rabat.--Salee.--The +People inimical to Christians.--The +Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait +Zimurh, notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their +Country disturbed with Lions.--Arrival +at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City and its imperial +Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely beautiful.--Arrival +at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley +Dris Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception +there by the Fakeers of the Sanctuary.--Slept in the +Adytum.--Succour expected from the English in the Event +of an Invasion by Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer +of Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure from the</i> +<a name="p106" id="p106"></a><span class="pagenum">[106]</span> +<i>Sanctuary.--Ruins of Pharaoh near the Sanctuary.--Treasures +found there.--Ite Amor.--The Descendants +of the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these People.--Various +Tribes of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar +Kabeer.--Its Environs, a beautiful Country.--Forest +of L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of Gold +Thread made at Fas, as well as Imitations of Amber.--Grand +Entry of the British Ambassador into Tangier.--Our +Ignorance of African Matters.--The +Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces of his Empire to +the various Kingdoms of Europe.</i></p> + +<p class="mid">TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Dear Sir,</span> +<span class="rig">Tangier,<br> 8th August, 1801.</span></p><br> + +<p>My journey to meet His Excellency James +M. Matra, the British ambassador to the Court +of Marocco, was undertaken principally to obtain +permission to ship a large quantity of wool which +I had in my possession, the exportation of which +had been recently prohibited. I thought I could +not select a more seasonable time than when our +ambassador was at court; accordingly, I started +from Mogodor (the morning after I dispatched +two vessels for Europe) on the 4th June last, +at four o'clock, P.M. My journey was first to +Rabat; thence, across the country, to Fas and +Mequinas; thence to the renowned and revered +sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, on the declivity +of the mountains of Atlas, east of Mequinas; +thence to <i>Kassar Farawan</i> (the ruins +of Pharaoh), and through the warlike province +of the Ait Amor, to L'Araich, Arzilla, and to +Tangier.</p> + +<p><a name="p107" id="p107"></a><span class="pagenum">[107]</span></p> + +<p>I took with me two of the finest horses in the +country, to ride alternately. Two mules and +three camels carried my baggage, tents, &c. +Muhamed of Diabet, commonly called <i>Deeb</i>, I +engaged as tent-master; this is the man that +astonished Aly Bey El Abassy, when he shot +the fish in the river, as recorded by that interesting +traveller. I engaged a most excellent fellow +as cook, a man who had performed many journies +in a similar capacity with the princes; he +was acquainted with the roads, the country, +and the character of the people; the camel-drivers +and muleteers completed our party. We +arrived at Tela at nine o'clock in the evening, +being a journey of five hours. We remained at +Tela the whole of the following day, and started +on the 6th June at seven o'clock; arrived, at +ten o'clock, at Akkermute, a town in ruins, in +the plains west of <i>Jebbel El Heddeed</i> (the +iron mountains), which was depopulated by the +plague about fifty years since. Passing through +the plains of Akkermute, towards the river Tensift, +we saw a party of Arabs hunting partridges; +we did not stop to see this novel sport, but I +was informed that the dogs were directed by +the huntsmen to the spot where the birds settled, +which roused them; they then pursued them +again, and after rousing them several times without +intermission, the birds become fatigued and +exhausted by continual flying, and the dogs then +run them down and seize on them. +<a name="p108" id="p108"></a><span class="pagenum">[108]</span> +In six hours from Akkermute, at four o'clock, +P.M., we reached the river Tensift, which +brings its water from the Atlas, east of Marocco, +meandering through the plains and passing about +three miles north of that city.</p> + +<p>We pitched our tents under the walls of the +(<i>Luksebba</i>) castle, on the south bank of the +river.</p> + +<p>We started the next morning at six o'clock, +and travelling through a fine country, we came +to a narrow pass on the declivity of a lofty +mountain called Jerf El Eudie, a most picturesque +country, and arrived at the port of Saffy at eleven +o'clock. Saffy has no harbour, but a road where +ships are obliged to put to sea whenever the +south-wind blows; the town was fortified when +in possession of the Portuguese, and is situated +in a declivity between two hills, so that during +the rainy season the waters come down so rapidly +that they sometimes overflow the lower apartments +of the houses and commit considerable +damage. On the 8th June we started from Saffy +at nine o'clock, and arrived at the sanctuary of +Seedi Cuscasoe at five o'clock, P.M.; and proceeding +on, we reached El Woladia at nine, +and pitched our tents. This place might be +made a secure harbour for the whole British +navy, by blowing up a rock which impedes the +narrow passage at the entrance of a long and +extensive bay. From hence we started at half-past +five o'clock in the morning; we proceeded +northwards along the coast till eleven o'clock, +when we reached the beautiful and abundant +<a name="p109" id="p109"></a><span class="pagenum">[109]</span> +valley, the Woolga; travelling on through the +country, leaving the sea to the left, we arrived +at six o'clock at the Douar, (an encampment of +Arabs,) called <i>Woled Aisah, i.e.</i> "Sons of +Jesus," situated in the productive province of +Duquella. The environs of the Douar of Woled +Aisah abound in plantations of tobacco, of a superior +quality, equal to the Havannah. The next +morning, viz. on the 10th June, we struck our +tents at six o'clock, and travelling three hours +we arrived, at nine, at the <i>Jerf el Saffer</i> (the +Yellow Cliff): three hours more brought us to +Tet, and an hour more to Mazagan, which we +reached at one o'clock. Mazagan is the Portuguese +name; the Moorish name is El Burreja. +This is a very strong place, having several stout +bastions; there is a magnificent (<i>mitfere</i>) cistern +of water, built by the Portuguese, supported by +many pillars of great strength of the Tuscan order. +The water in the neighbourhood of Mazagan +is very salubrious; this country is full of +springs. The inhabitants have a good healthy +colour, very different from the inhabitants of the +plains of the province of Duquella, which being +supplied by water from wells only, of from 100 +to 200 feet deep, have a sallow and sickly appearance. +It may, in Europe, appear extraordinary +that the quality of water should produce +such a manifest difference in the complexion of +the inhabitants, but when we consider that these +people drink no wine, spirits, or malt liquor, the +paradox will immediately vanish. After viewing +<a name="p110" id="p110"></a><span class="pagenum">[110]</span> +the mitfere, or cistern, and batteries at Mazagan, +we mounted at four o'clock, and arrived at Azamor +at seven o'clock P.M., pitched the tents in +a large spacious fondaque, or caravansera, in +the centre of the town. We were annoyed +during the night by thousands of storks, the cluttering +of whose bills would not permit us to sleep. +This town is in the centre of a beautiful country. +On the 11th June, at noon, we pursued our +journey, and reached Sancet Urtemma at eight +o'clock P.M. This is a dangerous country, infested +with robbers, who, from the undulating +face of the country, have many modes of escape; +we, therefore, retired into a solitary retreat, and +lay on our arms, without sleep, all night. At +six o'clock next morning, being the 12th June, +we started, and arrived at Dar el Beida at twelve. +Here I was hospitably entertained by the agents +of the Spanish house of the Cinquo Gremos of +Madrid, who were established here for the purpose +of shipping corn to Spain. We left Dar +el Beida, at half-past three, and reached Fedalla +at half-past seven. This is a fine productive +country, abounding in grain as well as Dar +el Beida. On the 13th we started at four +o'clock, and reached El Mensoria at seven; +stopped and dined, mounted at ten A.M. and +arrived at Rabat at seven o'clock, P.M. after a +journey from Mogodor, of 80-1/2 hours of actual +travelling, or 242 English miles.<a id="footnotetag111" name="footnotetag111"></a> +<a href="#footnote111"><sup class="sml">111</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote111" +name="footnote111"></a><b>Footnote 111:</b><a href="#footnotetag111"> +(return) </a> Calculated at the rate of three miles an hour, including +stoppages and refreshments.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p111" id="p111"></a><span class="pagenum">[111]</span></p> + +<p>Rabat is the largest town on the coast of the +empire, it is walled round; its circumference is +about four miles; an aqueduct conveys abundance +of water to the town from a distance of +several miles. The mausoleum of the sultan +Muhamed, father to the present sultan Soliman, +is in the town of Rabat, it is a neat building, surrounded +by a colonade; here is a lamp continually +burning, and a <i>muden</i><a id="footnotetag112" name="footnotetag112"></a> +<a href="#footnote112"><sup class="sml">112</sup></a>, who is a fakeer, is continually +proclaiming the omnipotence of God, +and that Muhamed is the prophet. "<i>La Allah, +ila Allah, wa Muhamed rassul Allah.</i>" There +is a very strong battery towards the sea, at the +mouth of the river, which is bomb proof. The +city wall is high, and is strengthened by several +bastions mounting cannon: towards the land, +about a mile from Rabat, there is a spring, reported +to have been discovered by the Romans, +and near it is the Roman town of Shella, which +none but musulmen are permitted to enter. In +it are said to be the tombs of two sultans, but +most probably of Roman generals. Kettles or +pans of coins are continually found by the people +who dig the ground at this place, and the coins +found are Roman. Some European travellers +enhanced the price of these coins so much, by +their eagerness to purchase them, that they offered +more than double their intrinsic value, so +that the Jews imitated them so well that they +<a name="p112" id="p112"></a><span class="pagenum">[112]</span> +deceived even these antiquaries. There are several +mosques in this town, but that which attracts +particularly the notice of travellers, is the +<i>sma Hassan, i.e.</i> the tower of Hassan, situated +about a mile from Shella, on the south banks of +the river Buregreg, so called from its being in +the province of Beny Hassan, it is an old tower +built in a superior manner by an architect of +Grenada, the same that built the tower at Marocco, +called <i>Jamaa Lifenar</i>, one at Timbuctoo, +and that at Seville; it is about 200 feet high, +perfectly square, and a person may ride up to +the top on horseback, having a gradual ascent, +and seven chambers one above the other: the +cement with which it is made is so hardened that +no pickaxe can destroy it. It was represented +to the sultan Muhamed that the apartments in +this tower were the haunts of vice and immorality, +and the sultan ordered the floor or terras, +by which visitors ascend, to be broken; it was +found, however, impossible to destroy it, wherefore +the workmen were ordered to desist, and +the entrance was blocked up with loose stones. +This tower I ascended with my friend the +Comte de Fourban, nephew to the duke de Crillon, +who conducted the famous siege of Gibraltar, +and whose machinations were so admirably +defeated by the immortal governor of that garrison, +General Elliott, Lord Heathfield. The +Comte had ruined his constitution by being immolated +in a dungeon in France, during the +reign of Robespierre, where he remained during +<a name="p113" id="p113"></a><span class="pagenum">[113]</span> +fifteen months, oftentimes seated on steps in +water up to his ankles. The Comte was a very +generous and liberal man, an emigrant French +nobleman, protected by the British consul at the +court of Morocco. The disorder contracted by +ill usage and confinement in prison, brought on +a disease which, after applying various remedies +to no purpose, carried him off, and he died at +Rabat. The house of the French consul and +those of some other European consuls who formerly +resided here, are conveniently situated on +the southern banks of the river Buregreg, which +divides Rabat from Salee. Ships of one hundred +tons, that do not draw much water, may pass the +bar and load close to these houses; but larger vessels +must come to anchor in the offing, and take in +their cargoes by boats. The country about Rabat +and Salee is wonderfully abundant in all the +finest grain, leguminous plants, fruits, vegetables, +and cattle; the orange, lemon, Seville, +or bitter orange, and citron plantations are here +very extensive and extremely productive. Several +ships might be loaded here with oranges in +October and November, before the gales of the +latter half of December and the month of January +set in. One hundred fine large oranges may +be had for a drahim, a silver coin worth 6<i>d.</i> sterling. +The orange plantations of Rabat are of +incalculable extent; the trees are as large as a +middling-sized oak; the vineyards and cotton +plantations are likewise most abundant; and nothing +can exceed the good quality of the grapes, +<a name="p114" id="p114"></a><span class="pagenum">[114]</span> +figs, oranges, citrons, apricots, peaches, and +water-melons; the quality of the latter is peculiarly +<i>sweet</i>, they are called <i>Dilla Seed Billa</i>; +the seed of which might be advantageously +transported to our new colony, the Cape of +Good Hope. The vineyards of Rabat are very +extensive; the vines are cultivated in the Arabian +system, on the ground, which is a light +sandy soil: the immense numbers of turtle-doves +that are in these vineyards is such, that a bad +sportsman cannot fail killing a dozen or two at +every shot; they rise just before you in thousands, +and the foulahs, or vine cultivators, express +their gratitude to the Christians who go to +shoot them. These birds, from being unmolested, +are so tame and so abundant, that they +destroy an incalculable quantity of the best +fruit.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote112" +name="footnote112"></a><b>Footnote 112:</b><a href="#footnotetag112"> +(return) </a> The muden is the man who ascends the tower of the +Mosque and announces prayer.</blockquote> + +<p>On the 14th, the Comte de Fourban accompanied +me, and we crossed the river, in the ferry, +to visit Salee. The inhabitants of this town are +inimical to Christians: we viewed the subterraneous +cavern where the Sallee rovers formerly +confined their Christian slaves: it resembled a +mitfere or large subterraneous granary; it had +two grates to let in the air; it appeared perfectly +dry, but no one was in it. The Comte observed +that it was far preferable to the prison where he +was confined in France, during the reign or +usurpation of Robespierre. The air of Salee +and Rabat, and the adjacent country, is strongly +perfumed, morning and evening, with the sweet +<a name="p115" id="p115"></a><span class="pagenum">[115]</span> +odour of the orange-flower, of which they make +immense quantities of delectable comfits.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 15th, we pursued our +journey to Mequinas, passing through a very fine +country, inhabited by a Kabyl of Berebbers, +called Ait Zemurh. We halted, at four o'clock +P.M. at a circular Douar of these Berebbers, in +a fine campaign country. The next morning, at +five o'clock, we struck the tents, and proceeded +through a dangerous country, infested by artful +robbers, and the occasional depredations of the +lion and other wild beasts, whose roaring we +heard at a distance. We saw several square +buildings, which our guides informed us were +built by the Berebbers, for the purpose of destroying +the lion. The patient hunter will conceal +himself in one of these buildings, which are +about five feet by seven, and will wait whole +days for an opportunity to get a shot at the lion: +these noble beasts are here said to be the largest +in all Africa. After travelling this day ten hours, +we pitched our tents at another circular encampment +of the Zimurite<a id="footnotetag113" name="footnotetag113"></a> +<a href="#footnote113"><sup class="sml">113</sup></a> Berebbers. These +people drive in stakes and place thorny bushes +round their encampment, eight feet high, and fill +up the entrance every night with thorns, as the +fiercest lions of Africa abound in the adjacent +forests, and sometimes attack their habitations, +accordingly they keep a large fire all night to +<a name="p116" id="p116"></a><span class="pagenum">[116]</span> +deter the lions and other wild beasts from approaching. +About two hours after midnight, +my grey horse, who was an old campaigner, +neighed and awoke us; this gave the alarm, and +my people were presently on the alert, and perceived +two men approaching our tents, crawling +naked along the ground, which was of the +same colour with their bodies. We did not wish +to take them, fearing that the people of the +Douar would espouse the cause of their +countrymen, but my people gave the alarm, +and exclaimed "<i>Erd abellek asas</i>," i.e. "Be +watchful, guards!" We then saw these marauders +jump up, and run away as fast as they could; +keeping watch the rest of the night: we were +advised to take no notice of this circumstance. +The people of Ait Zimurh are professed +robbers: they would not allow us to pitch +our tents <i>within</i> their circular encampment, a +privilege universally granted to strangers and +travellers. I thought this very unhospitable; +being totally different from any thing I had +ever before witnessed in this country, where +hospitality generally exceeds all bounds. I have +no doubt that the people of the Douar were in +league with the robbers; I considered my escape, +the next day, when I was apprised of the danger +of the country I had confided in, quite providential, +and I have no doubt but these people +would delude any one that would trust to their +honour: they reminded me of the ancient +Africans, as described by Sallust, in the wars of +Jugurtha.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote113" +name="footnote113"></a><b>Footnote 113:</b><a href="#footnotetag113"> +(return) </a> The Zimurites, or Ait Zimure, are probably the descendants +of the Zemarites: for which see 1 Chron. i. 16.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p117" id="p117"></a><span class="pagenum">[117]</span></p> + +<p>We struck our tents at five o'clock, and travelled +very fast to get out of these treacherous +habitations; for we learned that, the preceding +night, Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy, a Negro captain +of the emperor's army, passed this Douar, +and was robbed of his bridles, saddles, and tent +equipage, with which the thieves made off, without +being discovered. I afterwards met Alkaid +L'Hassan Ramy at Mequinas; and he appeared +quite astonished that I should have escaped +being robbed at the above Douar, calling the +whole Kabyl a set of lawless thieves. On the 17th, +we started at five o'clock, and arrived at Mequinas +at nine o'clock, performing the journey from +Rabat to Mequinas in twenty-two hours, being +sixty-six miles. The city of Mequinas is the court-town +of the northern division of the empire: the +imperial palace at this place is above two miles +in circumference. At the corners are erected +(<i>Coba's</i>) square buildings or pavilions, containing +one room up stairs, where the emperor frequently +transacts business. This palace was built +by the sultan Muley Ismael: it is very neat, and +consists for the most part of moresque architecture; +the marble columns and other decorations +were brought from (<i>Kasser Farawan</i>) the ruins +of Pharaoh, about a day's journey to the eastward. +There is a superior garden of choice fruit +within the wall which surrounds the palace, and +in the latter are many elegant apartments, ornamented +<i>À-la-mauresque</i>. The ladies of Mequinas +are so extremely handsome, that I cannot +<a name="p118" id="p118"></a><span class="pagenum">[118]</span> +say I saw one plain young woman, although +I visited several families; nay, I can say, without +offense to truth, that I did not see one that was +not comely and handsome. I was most hospitably +entertained wherever I went. On the +18th June, at eight o'clock A.M. we started +for Fas; when we had approached the latter +city, we met a messenger, with the prince Muley +Abdsalam's secretary, from the emperor to his +excellency J.M. Matra, the British ambassador +to the court of Marocco, who informed me that +his excellency had just terminated his embassy, +had waited for my arrival two days, and was on +his return to Tangier. Presuming, therefore, +that the ambassador had negociated my business +for me, I turned to the north-east, travelled all +day without halting, till eight o'clock in the +evening, when we arrived at the renowned +sanctuary<a id="footnotetag114" name="footnotetag114"></a> +<a href="#footnote114"><sup class="sml">114</sup></a> of Muley Dris Zerone, on the declivity +of North Atlas; a most magnificent, beautiful, +and picturesque country, abounding in all +the necessaries and luxuries of life. This sanctuary +was never before, nor since, visited by any +Christian. It was here that the standard of +Muhamed was first planted in North-western +Africa, by the fakeer and prince Muley Dris, the +founder. A favourable combination of circumstances, +of which I availed myself, enabled me +to procure not only an asylum, but a most hospitable +and kind reception and entertainment in +<a name="p119" id="p119"></a><span class="pagenum">[119]</span> +this renowned sanctuary; and I actually slept +in the <i>Horem</i> or Adytum itself, which honour I +obtained by a present, appropriated to the circumstance, +and sent to the chief fakeer of the +sanctuary, accompanied with some observations +expressed in a manner which was agreeable +to the holy fraternity. When I entered the +<i>Horem</i> of this renowned sanctuary, where I +slept alone, its silence reminded me of the silence +of death, which formed one of the ancient +mysteries of Egypt. The chief of the fakeers +met me in the portico, and cordially shook +hands with me, calling me his brother. At this +time there was a rumour that Bonaparte was +preparing to invade the country; and indeed he +had intimated as much, the English were therefore +courted; it was even hoped and expected +by the emperor that they would in such an +event become his allies, and give him succour. +The next morning, I gave the fakeer some wax +candles accompanied with observations emblematical +of the present, which was so favourably +received, that no less than nine saints prostrated +themselves at the place of prayer, +which is at the entrance of the town, as I +passed out to pursue my journey, uttering with +audible voices a (<i>fâtha</i>) prayer of benediction, +invoking on me the protection of Almighty God, +and a blessing on the English nation; also that +God would avert every danger from the embassy, +and restore them in safety to their native +land. I am perfectly aware that, in recording +<a name="p120" id="p120"></a><span class="pagenum">[120]</span> +this extraordinary circumstance, persons who +have visited this country, and have remarked +the rancour that generally exists with the lower +orders against Christians, may doubt my veracity, +so unprecedented a circumstance it is for +a Christian to be admitted into a <i>Horem</i>! the +most respected also and the most sacred in the +empire! My answer to such is, that the circumstance +is so incredible, that I should not +have presumed to lay it before the British public, +if I had not two most respectable witnesses, +<i>now living</i> in West Barbary, who can and will +corroborate my report; these two men are Bel +Hage, a Muselman, who had been the prince's +cook, and who officiated as mine during the +journey, and Muhamed, commonly called Deeb, +of Diabet, a village near Mogodor, the same +man whose dexterity Aly Bey, in his travels, alludes +to, when he shot a fish in the river near +Mogodor.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote114" +name="footnote114"></a><b>Footnote 114:</b><a href="#footnotetag114"> +(return) </a> The town, in the centre of which stands the sanctuary, +contains about 5000 inhabitants.</blockquote> + +<p>Half an hour's journey after leaving the +sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, and at the foot +of Atlas, I perceived to the left of the road +magnificent and massive ruins; the country for +miles around is covered with broken columns of +white marble, the ruins appeared to be of the +Egyptian, and massive style of architecture. +There were still standing two porticos, about +thirty feet high and twelve feet wide, the top of +which was one entire stone. I attempted to +take a view of these immense ruins, which have +furnished marble for the imperial palaces at +<a name="p121" id="p121"></a><span class="pagenum">[121]</span> +Mequinas and at Tafilelt; but I was obliged to +desist, seeing some persons of the sanctuary following +the cavalcade. Pots and kettles of gold +and silver coins are continually dug up from +these ruins. The country, however, abounds +in serpents, and we saw many scorpions under +the stones that my conductor Deeb turned up. +These ruins are said by the Africans to have +been built by one of the Pharaohs: they are +called "<i>Kasser Farawan</i>" i.e. the ruins of +Pharaoh.<a id="footnotetag115" name="footnotetag115"></a> +<a href="#footnote115"><sup class="sml">115</sup></a> Here begins the territory of the +<a name="p122" id="p122"></a><span class="pagenum">[122]</span> +Brebber Kabyl, the Amorites or Ite-amor, said +to be the descendants of the ancient<a id="footnotetag116" name="footnotetag116"></a> +<a href="#footnote116"><sup class="sml">116</sup></a> Amorites, +whose country was situated east of Palestine. +These people retain their ancient warlike spirit, +but they are a faithless tribe, and intolerable +thieves, unlike the other Kabyles (who are, at +least, faithful to one of their own Kabyl); but +these marauders are exceedingly mistrustful of +their own brethren, so that their habitations consist +of two or three tents only, in one encampment; +and even these are sometimes at variance +with each other. The lamentable result of this +<a name="p123" id="p123"></a><span class="pagenum">[123]</span> +mistrustful and marauding spirit, is wretched +and universal poverty. Their country is a succession +of gentle undulating hills, without trees +or plantations of any kind. The late sultan +Muhamed used to compare the provinces or +races of men in his empire, to the nations of +Europe, the English he called warriors, the +French faithless, the Spaniards quiet and inoffensive, +the Romans, i.e. the people of Italy, +treacherous, the Dutch a parsimonious and +trading people; the other powers of Europe, +having no consul at Marocco, nor merchants in +the country, are known only by name: accordingly, +in allusion to the warlike spirit of the +English, he would call the Ait Amor, "the +English of Barbary;" Temsena, the French; +Duquella, the Spanish; Haha, the Italians; and +Suse, the Russians. When the sultan Muhamed +began a campaign, he never entered the field +without the warlike Ait Amor, who marched in +the rear of the army; these people received no +pay, but were satisfied with what plunder they +got after a battle; and accordingly, this principle +stimulating them, they were always foremost +on any contest, dispute, or battle. They +begin the campaign almost in a state of nudity, +and seldom return to their homes without abundance +of apparel, arms, horses, camels, and +money; but this property quickly disappears, and +these people are soon again reduced to their +wonted misery and nudity, and become impatient +for another campaign of plunder. When +<a name="p124" id="p124"></a><span class="pagenum">[124]</span> +the present sultan, Soliman, came from Mequinas, +in the year of the plague (1799), a division of +his army passed near Mogodor, and the encampments +of the Ait Amor, or Amorites occupied +the whole of the country from the river to the +Commerce Garden, a distance of three miles. It +is very probable that some other of the tribes +bordering on Palestine, may have emigrated in +remote times, and may have taken their abode +on the Atlas mountains. There are above +twenty (kabyls) tribes of<a id="footnotetag117" name="footnotetag117"></a> +<a href="#footnote114"><sup class="sml">117</sup></a> Berebbers occupying +the mountains of Atlas, as Ait-Girwan, Zian, +Ait-Ziltan, Ait-Amor, Ait-Ebeko, Ait-Kitiwa, +Ait-Attar, Ait-Amaran, and many more whose +names I do not now recollect. We travelled +seven hours through the Amorite country, and +pitched our tents in the north part of the plains +of Msharrah Rummellah. Fire being lit, the +Moors sat round to warm themselves, and confidently +animadverted on the prosperity that +would necessarily attend our journey, after +having met with such a hospitable and favoured +reception at the renowned sanctuary before +mentioned.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote115" +name="footnote115"></a><b>Footnote 115:</b><a href="#footnotetag115"> +(return) </a> In reply to those learned sceptics who have studied +books; but not men, and the manners of different countries; +who believe nothing but what they have seen; and who say +that Pharaoh never came so far west; I reply, that our knowledge +of African history is extremely imperfect. In fact, +we now know as certainties, various articles of which no +record is to be found in any ancient writer; for the affairs of +Africa, which, of late, have so deservedly excited the attention +of the learned, were as little known to the ancients as +they are to the moderns; insomuch that not a word is to be +found in any ancient record or history extant, of those curious +astronomical representations, the Zodiacs, which adorn the +ceilings of the temples in <i>Egypt</i>, nor of the paintings which +cover the silent and solemn repositories of their dead. Even +the royal sepulchres, surpassing all the efforts of art hitherto +known, in brilliancy of colours and decorative sculptures, +are recorded by no historian! Neither in any history, <i>known +to Europe</i>, is there any allusion to the Egyptian custom of +placing books, i.e. rolls of manuscript, in the mummy coffins +with the bodies of the deceased. For much of the knowledge +collected respecting Africa, we are indebted to the +catacombs of Egypt, and we must not hope to know much +more, whilst our ignorance of the Arabic language is so manifest; +we must travel far out of the precincts of Greek and Latin +lore, before we shall procure correct histories of African +affairs! Our knowledge of Hebrew, in Europe I apprehend, +is almost as much confined and as imperfect as that of Arabic! +By the assistance, however, of the latter, what store of learning +might we not expect from complete Arabic translations +of many of the Greek and Latin authors, <i>viz.</i> of the <i>complete</i> +works of Livy, Tacitus, and many others. I recollect conversing +with Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, (a +gentleman deeply versed in Arabian literature,) about the +close of the last century, who mentioned circumstances, +which gave me reason to suppose that there is extant a complete +Arabic translation of Livy as well as of Tacitus, as +the bashaw assured me there was, and that he had read +them, and they were to be found in the recondite chests of +the Imperial library at Fas, in which it is more than probable +that there are many valuable transcripts in Arabic of ancient +authors, quite lost to erudite Europe! +A knowledge of the Arabic language in this country is so +indispensable, and is held in such high estimation, that every +one who does not understand it, is denominated <i>ajemmy</i>, +<i>i.e.</i> barbarian or European.--St. Paul in the same spirit +says, I Corinth. ch. xiv. v. 11., "He that speaketh unintelligibly, +is unto us a barbarian."</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote116" +name="footnote116"></a><b>Footnote 116:</b><a href="#footnotetag116"> +(return) </a> See Genesis, xv. 16. Deuteron. xx. 17. Judges, i. 34.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote117" +name="footnote117"></a><b>Footnote 117:</b><a href="#footnotetag117"> +(return) </a> Some persons consider several tribes of these Berebbers +to be colonies of the ancient Phenicians.</blockquote> + +<p>On the morning of the 20th June, we struck +our tents at six o'clock, and pursued our journey +to L'Araich, and soon entered the territory that +belongs to the agriculturists of El Kassar Kabeer, +a beautiful country not unlike that of Ait-Amor +<a name="p125" id="p125"></a><span class="pagenum">[125]</span> +in appearance, but bearing the evidences of +agricultural industry. Here we discovered +magnificent and extensive plantations of olives, +immense citron-trees, orange-groves, and spacious +vineyards, peaches, apricots, greengages, and +walnuts were also the produce of this country, +besides excellent wheat of a large and long transparent +grain like amber, yielding, when ground +into flour, from fifteen to twenty per cent. increase, +in quantity. Anxious now to overtake +His Excellency the ambassador, for the purpose +of being present at his entry into Tangier, we +accelerated our pace, with a view of coming up +with him at L'Araich. We arrived at the forest +of L'Araich at dusk, and travelled through it all +night till five o'clock next morning.</p> + +<p>Having travelled incessantly twenty-three +hours without halting, being much fatigued, I +desired Deeb to take a little rest with me in an +adjacent field, and we sent on Bel Hage with +the baggage to L'Araich, to wait our arrival at +the ferry. We pursued our journey at seven +o'clock, and entered the town at nine. On +reaching the ferry, Bel Hage introduced a +courier, who had been dispatched to me from +Fas, by a friend of mine, who informed me how +much he, and many of my Moorish friends had +been disappointed, that I did not enter that +city, where I understood preparations had been +made for my entertainment, in the odoriferous +gardens of the merchants of Fas. The courier +brought me a present of gold wire and gold +<a name="p126" id="p126"></a><span class="pagenum">[126]</span> +thread, of the manufacture of Fas, and some +gold ornaments of filligrane work from Timbuctoo, +of the manufacture of Jinnie. It is +more than probable that the Fasees learned the +art of manufacturing gold thread from the +Egyptians: it is much superior to that which is +imported into Barbary from Marseilles. The +ladies ornament their cambric dresses with it, +and the Fas gold-thread never loses its colour +by washing, but the French does; the Fas gold +thread wears also much better, and is more +durable; the change of colour may possibly +originate from the great proportion of alloy in +the gold of the French manufacture, whereas +that of Fas, according to an imperial edict, must +be of a certain fineness, approaching to pure +gold; the gold wire of which it is made being +first assayed by the (<i>M'tasseb</i>) supervisor +of manufactures. Great quantities of gold +thread are used in the elegant shawls and sashes +of silk and gold made at Fas, the better kind of +which are reserved for princes and bashaws, in +which they use, as before observed, the Fas thread +only. They manufacture also at Fas, a very +correct imitation of amber-beads, impossible to +be discriminated by the best judges, but by +rubbing the artificial amber, and then applying +it to a bit of cotton; the latter does not adhere, +but the natural amber attracts the cotton as a +magnet does iron; and this is the discriminating +criterion whereby to distinguish them.</p> + +<p><a name="p127" id="p127"></a><span class="pagenum">[127]</span></p> + +<p>But, to return to our journey, we found the ambassador +had passed the preceding day, we therefore +crossed the river, and travelled on till nine +o'clock at night, when, after being a-horseback +thirty-four hours, refreshed only by two hours' +sleep, we came up with the ambassadors, Cafila, +and guard, in a fine open campaign country, +half-way between Tangier and Arzilla; and soon +after I received a courier from Sir Pieter Wyk, +Swedish consul-general to the empire residing +at Tangier, with a very friendly invitation to his +house and table, which being the first offer and +from a sincere and worthy friend, I with pleasure +accepted it, and returned the express immediately. +On the morning of the 22d June, I +breakfasted at five o'clock with the ambassador, +and, discussing with him my business, I learned +that he had terminated it to my satisfaction. We +started together at seven o'clock, and moved +slowly on towards Tangier, it having been +ordered by the emperor, that the English ambassador's +entry into that town should be marked +with every possible honour and attention. An hour +before we reached Tangier, the governor, with +the whole garrison, came out to salute and greet +the ambassador, the cavalry running full gallop, +and firing their muskets, as is the custom with +them in all rejoicings. At half-past eleven the +cannon of Tangier began to announce the ambassador's +arrival, and continued, not a royal +salute, but every gun in Tangier was discharged; +and at twelve o'clock we entered the gates.</p> + +<p><a name="p128" id="p128"></a><span class="pagenum">[128]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XIV.</h3> + +<p class="mid"><i>Result of the British Embassy</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">FROM HIS EXCELLENCY J.M. MATRA TO MR. J.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Dear Jackson;</span><br> +<span class="rig">Old Fez,<br> Sunday night, June 14, 1801.</span></p> +<br> + +<p>After a most unpleasant and tedious negotiation +of nine days, I have just finished my business. +I march off early to-morrow morning, +and am much employed in packing up, translating, +and copying of papers.</p> + +<p>The letter I solicited for you is just brought to +me, mixed with Mr. Foxcroft's business, and the +provision for the shipping in Mogadore; but +the Talb promises to bring me a separate one +very early in the morning, when I will inclose +it to you.</p> + +<p><i>Through the interest of Muly Abdel-melk-ben +Driss, the orders were some time since sent to +Mogadore, to reduce your new duty to the old +standard of Seedi Muhamed</i>.</p> + +<p>I have been treated by the emperor like a +prince, and with a friendly personal attention +I had no idea of; but my business has been +marvellously tormented. Of that, as we are to +meet soon, I will say no more. I am half dead.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +God bless you.<br> +J. MATRA. +</p><br><br> + +<p><a name="p129" id="p129"></a><span class="pagenum">[129]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XV. </h3> + +<p><i>European Society at Tangier.--Sects and Divisions +among Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts +the Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt +upon Christians themselves.--The Cause of it.--The +Conversion of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation +of the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians +themselves, as an Example eligible to follow</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ.</p> + +<p>It is not only the duty, but it is the manifest +policy of Christians who reside in Muhamedan +countries, to preserve that peace and harmony +that is so often inculcated by our divine Master: +there should be no followers of Paul or of +Apollos, of the Pope or of Luther, but Christians +altogether should forget sects, and become +followers of Christ, by practising his divine and +luminous doctrine. This principle, strictly adhered +to, would have greater effect in propagating +the Christian doctrine, than the united +efforts, however arduous, of all the missionaries +in Africa. We should first begin by reforming +the manners of those Christians who are established +in Muhamedan countries, holding responsible +situations, so as to show the Muhamedans, +by their harmony and good will, the +advantages of the benign influence of the great +Christian principle, "Love thy neighbour as thyself." +Until the disgraceful animosity lamentably +prevalent between the Catholic and Protestant, +<a name="p130" id="p130"></a><span class="pagenum">[130]</span> +the Lutheran, Calvinist, and other sects of +Christians be annihilated, it cannot be expected +by any reasonable and reflecting mind, that +essential progress can be made in the propagation +of Christianity in Africa, at least in the +Muhamedan part of it. We must purify our +own actions, and set a laudable example of +chaste and virtuous conduct, as a prelude to the +conversion of the people of this continent. The +Africans, viz. the Arabs, Berebbers, Shelluhs, +Moors, and Negroes are, <i>generally</i> speaking, +shrewd, acute, discerning races of men; and it +cannot be supposed by any but insane enthusiasts, +that the doctrines of Christ can be propagated +in those countries, until an example be +set for their imitation better than their own +practice, and more conformable to the true +Christian doctrine than any that has hitherto +been offered for their imitation.</p> + +<p>Tangier is the residence of the consuls-general +of all the nations of Europe, who send occasionally +ambassadors to the Court of Marocco; +and these gentlemen generally act as envoys or +ministers, as well as consuls. The English, +French, Dutch, American, Spanish, Portuguese, +Swedish, and Danish consuls reside here, some +with their families, some without. I had not +been long here before I perceived that the +Moors of Tangier manifested an extraordinary +contempt for Christians, the general respect +which is shown to them at Mogodor, is unknown +here. The reason is evident: the families of these +<a name="p131" id="p131"></a><span class="pagenum">[131]</span> +gentlemen were at variance with each other, and +the respective ladies did not visit one another. +This circumstance was too well known to the +Moors, and materially contributed to create +among those people that contempt for the +Christians, which, perhaps, is due to all, whatever +be their <i>professed</i> doctrines, who have not +charity enough, in the correct acceptation of +the word, to maintain harmony in their own +community. I was shocked to see so many +amiable families at variance. I will not declare +if it was pride, ambition, or contention for pre-eminence +that produced this want of harmony; +but it is most certain, that Christians, whose +destiny it is to reside among Muhamedans, +should have more than ordinary care to preserve +that philanthropic disposition to each other, +which carries with it a high recommendation, +particularly in a country like <i>West Barbary</i>, +where the gate of every tent is open to the +largest, most disinterested, and unqualified hospitality, +and where the sheik of every douar +considers it his first and indispensable duty to +provide food and rest to the needy traveller, and +to the stranger at his gate.</p> + +<p><a name="p132" id="p132"></a><span class="pagenum">[132]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XVI.</h3> + +<p><i>Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, showing +the Distances from Town to Town, along the Coast of +the Atlantic Ocean; useful to Persons travelling in +that Country</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +Mogodor, 1801. +</p> + +<p>If you should ever come to this country, and +have occasion to travel through it, the following +journal of a journey from Tangier to +Mogodor may be of service to you, in ascertaining +the distances from one port to another, +&c.</p> + +<pre> +Departed from Tangier for Mogodor, +July 15, 1801, at 9 o'clock, A.M. Hours. + +Arrived at Arzilla, at 7, P.M. 10 + +Mounted at 7, A.M.; arrived at L'Araich, +at 2, P.M. 7 + +Started at 5, A.M.; arrived at Ras Doura, +at 3, P.M. 10 + +Mounted at 6, A.M.; travelled three hours; +came to a plain, level country, and arrived +at Sallée, at 10 o'clock, P.M. 16 + +Crossed the river in the ferry, and remained +at the French Consul's Hotel, at +Rabat, three days. Mounted at 9; arrived +at El Mensoria, at 9, P.M. 12 +<a name="p133" id="p133"></a><span class="pagenum">[133]</span> +Mounted at 6, A.M.; arrived at Dar El +Beida, at half-past 2, P.M. 8-1/2 + +Proceeded without halting, and arrived at +the Douar of Woled Jeraar, at 9, P.M. +and pitched our tents 7 + +Mounted at 5, A.M.; arrived at Azamore, +at 7, P.M. 14 + +Mounted at 7, A.M.; travelled southward, +leaving Mazagan to the right, and arrived +at the Douar of Woled Aisah, at +1 o'clock, P.M. and pitched our tents 6 + +Departed at 7, A.M.; arrived at El Woladia, +at 6, P.M. 11 + +Mounted at 8; arrived at Saffy, at 5 9 + +Started at 1, P.M.; rode six hours to the +river Tansift; slept at the Sanctuary +near the river 6 + +Rose at midnight, struck the tents, and +mounted at 1 o'clock, A.M. arrived at +the Sanctuary of Seedi Buzurukton, at +11 10 + +Dined, slept, and started again at 4 +o'clock, P.M. and entered Mogodor at +half-past 7 o'clock 3-1/2 + + ---- + 130 + +Average rate of travelling, (including +stoppages,) three miles per hour, 390 +miles in 130 hours. +</pre> + +<p><a name="p134" id="p134"></a><span class="pagenum">[134]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XVII.</h3> + +<p><i>An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to Saffy, during +a Civil War, in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier +could not pass, owing to the Warfare between the two +Provinces of Haha and Shedma.--Stratagem adopted +by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger of being +discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of +Abda, Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe +Arrival, and Compliments received from him on his having +accomplished this perilous Journey</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="rig">Mogodor, 1802.</p><br><br> + +<p>Having arranged all my affairs, I awaited an +opportunity to depart for England. A Spanish +vessel was lying at the port of Saffy, nearly +ready to sail, bound to Cadiz; but how to reach +the former port was the difficulty; the provinces +of Shedma and Haha, through which I must +necessarily pass, were at war against each other, +and an army of several thousand men were +encamped at Ain el Hajar, a spring near the +road, between Mogodor and Saffy; so that all +communication was cut off, insomuch that it was +dangerous, even for a courier, to attempt to +pass from one port to the other. I was extremely +anxious to reach Europe, and I determined to +go to Saffy by land. I accordingly sent for +a trusty Arab, whose character for fidelity I +<a name="p135" id="p135"></a><span class="pagenum">[135]</span> +had often before proved. I asked him if he +would undertake to conduct me to Saffy. He +required a day to consider of it. He then resolved +to attempt it, provided I would adopt the +dress of an Arab, and accompany him: I agreed; +and we started from Mogodor at 4 o'clock; P.M. +We passed into a convenient recess, to change +my dress, which being done, we mounted our +horses and rode away; we had not gone two +hours, before some scouts of the army came +galloping towards us. Billa (my trusty guide, +who was a native of Shedma, and a man of considerable +influence in that province) and his +friend rode off with speed to meet them, and +having satisfied them that we were about business +relating to the army, they returned, and +Billa's friend joining me, we inclined our steps +towards the sea, whilst Billa kept guard at a +distance; and, reaching a convenient and solitary +retreat, we halted there till dark; when +retracing our steps for a few miles, it was concerted +that I should pass as a wounded man +retiring from the army to have my wounds +examined and dressed. Billa was so well acquainted +with the roads, and all the bye-passes +of the country, that, travelling fast over the +plains, not on the roads, we soon reached to the +northward of the encampments of Shedma. We +passed several straggling parties from the army, +who saluted us with (<i>Salem u alikume</i>) "Peace +be to you;" to which we replied ("<i>Alikume +assalam</i>") "To you peace;" and Billa added +<a name="p136" id="p136"></a><span class="pagenum">[136]</span> +"<i>Elm'joroh</i>," i.e. a wounded man. In the old +bed of the river Tansift, now full of bushes +of white broom, I narrowly escaped being +discovered: as the day was breaking, a party of +Arabs suddenly turned a corner, and I had just +time to cover my mouth and chin with my +(<i>silham</i>) cloak, before they gave the salutation, +or they would have discovered me (being without +a beard) to be a Christian; we passed the river, +however, perfectly safe, and were then soon in +the province of Abda, when all danger was at +an end; we entered the town of Saffy, at two +o'clock in the afternoon. The Bashaw of Abda, +<i>Abdrahaman ben Nassar</i>, a renowned warrior, +who had been at the head of an army of 60,000 +horse, in opposition to the Emperor, Muley +Soliman, received me with his accustomed urbanity +and hospitality, and asked me if I had +come to Saffy through the air, or by sea. I replied, +I had come by neither, but by land. +"How is it possible," said he, "that you could +come by land, when even a courier could not pass. +Did you meet with no impediment?--you +astonish me: but praise be to God, that you +have arrived safe, and you are welcome." +</p> +<p><a name="p137" id="p137"></a><span class="pagenum">[137]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XVIII.</h3> + +<p><i>Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy, +in Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of +living in Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition +to the Port of Tomie, in Suse.--Country infested +with rats.--Situation of Tomie.--Entertainment at a +Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah.--Exertions +of Delemy to entertain his Guests.--Arabian Dance +aud Music.--Manner and Style of Dancing.--Eulogium +of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners +of the latter.--Their personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire +of the Arabs to have a Commercial +Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince +respecting Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the +Growth of various Articles of Commerce.--Viceroys +offer to build a House, and the Duties.--Contemplated +Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold +and Silver Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense +Water-melons and Grapes.---Mode of Irrigation.--Extraordinary +People from Sudan at +Delemy's.--Elegant Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The +Prince prepares to depart for Tafilelt</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +Santa Cruz, June 7, 1794. +</p><br><br> + +<p>I received a letter from the<a id="footnotetag118" name="footnotetag118"></a> +<a href="#footnote118"><sup class="sml">118</sup></a> Prince Muley +Abdsalam, who lately went from Santa Cruz to the +Khalif of Suse, Alkaid Muhamed ben Delemy, +whose castle is in Shtuka. The prince wished to +see me on some commercial business that had +<a name="p138" id="p138"></a><span class="pagenum">[138]</span> +been suggested to him by the khalif or viceroy. +We (that is, Signor Andrea de Christi, a native of +Italy, and a Dutch merchant established at +Santa Cruz, and myself) prepared our tents and +servants, and departed for Shtuka early in the +morning. We passed through a fine campaign +country, occupied by a tribe of the Woled +Abbusebah Arabs, and arrived, late at night, at +(<i>Luksebba</i>) the castle of Delemy, who was +also sheik of an emigration of the Arabs called +Woled Abbusebah, and of another emigration of +Arabs called Woled Deleim, who had taken +up their abodes in Shtuka. When we arrived, +our reception was in the true style of Arabian +hospitality. Delemy had prepared and had +pitched tents in a large garden adjoining his +castle, wherein we resided. Our own tents were +pitched in the Mushoir, or place of audience, a +spacious plain, enclosed by a wall, where the +sheik gave audience to the various kabyls of +Suse. The following day we had an audience +of the prince, who requested me to accompany +Delemy to a port of Suse, which had been +formerly frequented by European ships, which +took in water there, and ascertain if it were a +port convenient for a commercial establishment. +The name of this seaport was called Tomie +by the Portuguese, who formerly had an establishment +there; but by the Arabs, <i>Sebah +Biure</i>, i.e. the Seven Wells, because there were +seven wells of excellent water there: three of +them, however, when we visited this port, were +<a name="p139" id="p139"></a><span class="pagenum">[139]</span> +filled up and useless. We left Delemy's castle +in the afternoon, about two or three o'clock, +and we went at a pace called by the Arabs +<i>el herka</i><a id="footnotetag119" name="footnotetag119"></a> +<a href="#footnote119"><sup class="sml">119</sup></a>, over a plain country infested with +rats, and the haunts of serpents, our horses +continually stumbling over the rat-holes. We +were, to the best of my recollection, about four +hours going. We found Tomie, an open road, +not altogether calculated to form an advantageous +commercial establishment. Its situation +with respect to the sea being somewhat objectionable. +We sat down near one of the wells, +and after Delemy and his guards had amused +themselves with (<i>lab el borode</i>) running full +gallop and firing, we drank Hollands till we +became gay. The sun had just set, when we +mounted our horses to return. After an hour's +<i>herka</i>, we approached a douar of the Woled +Abbusebah Arabs, who, seeing their sheik, came +forward and kissed his stirrups, entreating him +to pass the night with them, which, it appeared, +would have been contrary to the etiquette of +Arabian hospitality to refuse. Delemy, therefore, +asked us if we would consent to sleep +there; and, apologising for not conducting us +to our own beds that night, again intimated, +that it was, in a manner, incumbent on him, +not to refuse. We, therefore, consented to stop. +This noble-spirited Arab, anxious to entertain +us, and justly conceiving that the beds and +<a name="p140" id="p140"></a><span class="pagenum">[140]</span> +habits of these Arabs were very different from +what we had been accustomed to, sought to +beguile the time, and accordingly endeavoured +to engage some ladies belonging to the douar to +dance, but they positively declined dancing before +Christians. Delemy expostulated with them, +representing the propriety of doing so, before +the prince's guests; but the ladies apologised, +by declaring that their splendid dancing dresses +were not made up. Delemy, however, with +the true energy of an Arab, was determined +that he would make our abode here as pleasant +as possible, and desirous also to show us the +spirit of Arabian dancing, he went himself, +accompanied by two of his friends, to a douar, +at some miles' distance, and, after much persuasion, +he prevailed on six young ladies to come +and dance. In about two hours, the sheik returned, +and informed us, that knowing that +beds in the desert would not suit our customs, +he had engaged some young girls to amuse us +with dancing during the night, assuring us at +the same time that they excelled in that graceful +art, and he had no doubt they would amuse +us. The tents were cleared and lighted; two +sheep were killed, and the <i>cuscasoe</i> was preparing, +when the ladies arrived. The music consisted +of an instrument similar to a flageolet, (<i>tabla</i>) +a kettle-drum, and a sort of castanets of steel, +an <i>erbeb</i>, or fiddle with two strings, played with +a semicircular bow. The tunes were gay and +sprightly, and the damsels tripped along on the +<a name="p141" id="p141"></a><span class="pagenum">[141]</span> +light fantastic toe in a very superior and elegant +style. They danced without men; advancing +gently at first, apparently without taking the +foot off the ground, but gradually advancing; +after which they performed some steps similar to +those in the Spanish bolera; and, turning round +on the toe, they danced a most elegant <i>shawl</i> +dance, equal to what was danced at the Opera +in London by Parisot, but without the horizontal +movement, or any motion that could offend the +chastest eye. This unique national dance was +encouraged from time to time by the approbation +of twelve captains of the viceroy's guard, +warriors of fame in arms, who were Arabs of +the Woled Deleim, and who were seated in a +circle, with us, round the dancers, expressing +their delight and gratification in witnessing such +superior grace and elegance, exclaiming--</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Afakume el Arabe, makine fal el Arabe,</p> +<p>El Hashema, u zin, u temara, fie el Arabe."</p><br> +<p>"Bravo, O Arabs! there is none equal to the Arabs:</p> +<p>Excellent is the modesty, beauty, and virtue of the Arabs."</p> +</div></div> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote118" +name="footnote118"></a><b>Footnote 118:</b><a href="#footnotetag118"> +(return) </a> Elder Brother of the present Emperor of Marocco, +Muley Soliman.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote119" +name="footnote119"></a><b>Footnote 119:</b><a href="#footnotetag119"> +(return) </a> A pace similar to that which European cavalry go when +charging.</blockquote> + +<p>These eulogiums were not lost on the ladies, +who increased the spirit of the dance. When +this amusement had continued about three hours, +the cuscasoe, meat, and vegetables were brought +in, as a supper. The Moors ate plentifully; but +the abstemious Arabs ate very little; the ladies +partook of sweet cakes and dates; they very +seldom chew meat, but when they do, they +<a name="p142" id="p142"></a><span class="pagenum">[142]</span> +think it gross to swallow it, they only press the +juices from the meat, and throw away the substance. +The manners of these damsels were elegant, +accompanied with much suavity and affability, +but very modest and unassuming withal: +indeed, they were all individuals, as I afterwards +learned, belonging to respectable and ancient +Arab families, who could not resist the exhortations +of their sheik to amuse and entertain his +guests. The manners of these Arabs, their elegant +forms, sparkling black eyes, long black +eye-lashes, which increased the beauty of the +eye, adding character to the countenance, +seemed to make an indelible impression on the +whole party. The ladies wore robes of Indian muslin, +girdles of gold thread, interwoven with silk +of the Fas manufacture; and their shawls of silk +and gold were displayed in various elegant devices. +We were given to understand by Delemy's +captains, on our return to the sheik's castle, that +we had been entertained with extraordinary honours: +we certainly were highly gratified, and +my friend Signor Andrea declared he had never +seen better dancing at Venice, his native place. +Among the Arabs was an old man of ninety, who +appeared very desirous of an European establishment +at Tomie. He related several anecdotes of +his life; and, among others, the money he had +gained, by purchasing goods of vessels which +came forty or fifty years before to Tomie for +water, with which he said he used to exchange +gums and almonds, feathers and ivory, for linens, +<a name="p143" id="p143"></a><span class="pagenum">[143]</span> +cloths, and spices. I am disposed to think these +vessels were Portuguese; for this coast is but +little known to the English. The ladies having +returned home, we prepared to leave this douar +early in the morning; and with no small regret +did I quit this abode of simple and patriarchal +hospitality; a pleasing contrast was here formed +to the dissipation and pleasure of civilised life--to +the life of fashionable society, where the refinements +of luxury have multiplied their artificial +wants beyond the proportion of the largest +fortunes, and have brought most men into the +class of the necessitous, inducing that churlish +habit of the mind, in which every feeling is considered +as a weakness, which terminates not in +self, unlike those generous sympathies of the +Arabs, where every individual seems impelled to +seek, as they express it, (<i>ê dire el khere fie nes</i>) +"to do good to men." The effect of luxury, +dissipation, and extravagance, (where the fortune +is not large enough to support them,) tends +to render man selfish upon principle, and extinguishes +all genuine public spirit, that is, all real +regard to the interests and good order of society; +substituting in its place, the vile ambition and +rapacity of the demagogue, which, however, assumes +the name of patriotism. This contrast +between the temperance and sobriety of these +Bedouin or primitive Arabs, and the luxury and +dissipation of civilised life, was the more remarkable, +when we observed among this rude people +such extraordinary and mutual exercise of benevolence, +manly and open presence, honesty and +<a name="p144" id="p144"></a><span class="pagenum">[144]</span> +truth in their words and actions.--On our return +to Delemy's castle, in Shtuka, the Prince +asked me, what observations I had made respecting +Tomie; I told his Royal Highness that it +was an open roadstead, and not a convenient +place for ships to lie. The Prince appeared +pleased at this report; but Delemy had rendered +to Muley Abdsalam so many essential services, +that the latter could not, in courtesy, refuse him +any thing. When Delemy found that my report +to the Prince did not realise his expectations, +offers were made to me, supported by every +possible encouragement, to form a commercial +establishment at Tomie, which, as was observed, +being advantageously situated for trade, being +in the neighbourhood of the gum, almond, and +oil countries, would offer advantages to the +merchants which they could not expect at Santa +Cruz, or Mogodor. Accordingly, I was urged +to send to Europe for ships, with assurances +that the duty on all imports, as well as exports, +should be only two per cent. <i>ad valorem</i>. A +house was offered to be built for me, according +to any plan I might choose to suggest, free of +expense. The people were desirous of having +a commercial establishment in their country, +and would have done any thing to accomplish +this object. The extensive connections which +I had throughout Suse, Sahara, and even at +Timbuctoo, would have facilitated my operations; +but my connections in England were not +such as to enable me to engage advantageously +in this enterprise, I was obliged, therefore, though +reluctantly, to decline it, although, if otherwise +<a name="p145" id="p145"></a><span class="pagenum">[145]</span> +situated, I might have realised an independent +fortune in two or three years at Tomie, besides +having a most favourable opportunity of opening +a trade with Timbuctoo, and other territories of +Sudan.</p> + +<p>I now felt a strong inclination to visit the port +of Messa, which was reported to have been about +two centuries before, a considerable port of +trade, and the capital of Suse, when that country +was a separate kingdom, and the state-prisoners +were banished to Sejin-messa<a id="footnotetag120" name="footnotetag120"></a> +<a href="#footnote120"><sup class="sml">120</sup></a>, (commonly called +Segelmessa in the maps;) as the state prisoners +of Marocco have been from time immemorial, +and are to this day sent to Tafilelt, which territory +lies contiguous to, and west of Sejin-messa. +We started for Messa in the morning, and +reached the town in the afternoon. Delemy +sent a strong guard with me for protection, with +an injunction to his friend the <i>fakeer</i> of Messa, +to treat me as his friend and guest, and to do +whatever he could to gratify my curiosity in +every respect. The country about Messa is very +picturesque, and productive: the river also +abounds with romantic scenery, it has a sandbar +at its entrance to the ocean, which is dry at +low water; but it was once navigable several +miles up, as was reported to me. On the south +bank of the river, about two miles from the sea, +is a gold-mine, in the territory of a tribe hostile +<a name="p146" id="p146"></a><span class="pagenum">[146]</span> +to Delemy, but the influence of the Fakeer, who +is held in reverential awe, enabled us to examine +it without danger. What they told us was +the entrance, was filled with immense large +pieces of rock-stone; and I was informed, that +when the Christians left the place, (the Portuguese, +no doubt,) they placed these stones at +the entrance of the mine, to prevent the natives +from getting access to it. In the bed of the river, +near the sea, is a mine of silver; the ore is in very +small particles, like lead-coloured sand, intermixed +with mud. I sent a small quantity of this +to England to be analysed; and it produced, as +I was informed, just enough to pay the expenses +of analysation. I sent also several specimens of +gold and silver ore, which I collected in various +parts of Suse; but I apprehend that sufficient +attention was not paid to them, and they also +scarcely paid for the analysation. I sent also to +the Honourable Mr. Greville, brother to the late +Earl of Warwick, a great many basaltick and other +stones, collected in the mountains of Barbary, +which that gentleman considered valuable. After +remaining two days at Messa, I returned to +Shtuka. I was again urged to form an establishment +at Tomie; but, limited as my connection +was in England, I did not feel competent to the +undertaking, and was obliged, reluctantly indeed, +but finally, to decline it.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote120" +name="footnote120"></a><b>Footnote 120:</b><a href="#footnotetag120"> +(return) </a> Sejin Messa signifies the prison of Messa.</blockquote> + +<p>The garden of Delemy, where we encamped, +is stocked with very fine vines from the mountains +<a name="p147" id="p147"></a><span class="pagenum">[147]</span> +of Idautenan,<a id="footnotetag121" name="footnotetag121"></a> +<a href="#footnote121"><sup class="sml">121</sup></a> a mountainous and independent +country, a few miles north of Santa +Cruz; these grapes were of the black or purple +kind, as big as an ordinary-sized walnut, and very +sweet flavoured, as much superior to the finest +Spanish grapes, as the latter are superior to the +natural grown grapes of England. Large pomegranates, +exquisitely sweet, the grains very large, +and the seed small, brought from Terodant; figs, +peaches, apricots, strawberries, oranges, citrons +of an enormous size, water-melons, weighing +fifty pounds each, four of which were a camel +load, together with culinary vegetables of every +description. This garden was watered by a well, +having what is called a Persian wheel, worked +by a horse, having pots all round the perpendicular +wheel, which, as they turn round, discharge +their contents into a trough, which communicated +to the garden, and laid the beds under +<a name="p148" id="p148"></a><span class="pagenum">[148]</span> +water. This is the general mode of irrigation +throughout west and south Barbary, as well as +in Sudan.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote121" +name="footnote121"></a><b>Footnote 121:</b><a href="#footnotetag121"> +(return) </a> The mountains of Idautenan divide the province of Haha +from Suse: they are exempt from <i>Ska u Laskor</i>, that is, two +per cent. on live stock, and 10 per cent. on produce which +is the regular impost on the country. They are a brave race +of Shelluhs, inhabiting a table-land in the mountains that is a +perfect terrestrial paradise. There is but one person in Europe +besides myself who has ever been in this country. Sheik +Mûluke, the sheik of Idautenan, is a generous noble-spirited +independent character. When an emperor dies, the sheik +sends Muley Ismael's firman, emancipating the district +from all impost or contribution to the revenue, for some +military service rendered by this district to the ancestor of +Ismael, and the succeeding emperors invariably confirm their +emancipation of Idautenan.</blockquote> + +<p>The Prince was very anxious to be of service +to Delemy, who had ingratiated himself with the +former, by signalising himself in feats of arms. +He had been also a main pillar to the throne, and +I sincerely regretted that the combination of +circumstances did not permit me to accept the +liberal and advantageous offers made to me.</p> + +<p>Delemy's renown had spread far to the south, +even unto Sudan: from the latter country he was +visited by some people, who wore circular rings +of pure gold, through the cartilage of the nose. +The rings were two or three inches in diameter; +and when these people ate, they turned them up +over the nose. Delemy had received a present, +from some king of Sudan, of a very elegant sword, +ornamented with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, +he showed me this sword, which was evidently +manufactured in Europe; he told me, he had +been offered 5000 dollars for it; but he had been +informed that it was worth double that sum.</p> + +<p>I was invited by the Khalif of Suse to visit +the immensely extensive plantations of olives at +Ras el Wed, near Terodant, through which a man +may proceed a whole day's journey without exposure +to the sun: also he offered to accompany +me to the eastern part of Shtuka, where the produce +of bitter and sweet almonds is equally +abundant, and the plantations equally extensive +with those of the olive at Ras el Wed; but I had +<a name="p149" id="p149"></a><span class="pagenum">[149]</span> +seen plantations of both on a smaller scale at Ait-Musie, +Fruga, and other parts of this empire; and +therefore the sight would have been no novelty, +except in extent. I understood these plantations +were on the same plan and principle with +those I had seen, leaving at certain distances, +square openings, to admit the air, for the better +promotion of the growth and increase of the fruit +and produce of the trees.</p> + +<p>The Prince was preparing to depart through +Draha, and Bled el Jereed, to Tafilelt; and we +had our audience of leave previous to his +departure.</p> + +<p><a name="p150" id="p150"></a><span class="pagenum">[150]</span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XIX.</h3> + +<p><i>Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers +ventured to pass, owing to civil War and Contention +among the Kabyles.--Moorish Philanthropy in digging +Wells for the Use of Travellers.--Travelled with a +trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or Incumbrances.--Nature +of the Warfare in the Land. +Bitter Effects of Revenge and Retaliation on the Happiness +of Society.--Origin of these civil Wars between the +Families and Kabyles.--Presented with Honey and +Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living +among the Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic +Honey.--Ceremony at Meals, and Mode of +eating.--Travelled all Night, and slept in the open +Air;--Method of avoiding the Night-dew, as practised +by the Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="rig">Santa Cruz, April 7, 1795.</p><br><br> + +<p>The province of Haha was in arms; caffilahs, +and travellers could not pass; but it was expedient +that I should go to Mogodor. Men of property +in this country, influenced by a philanthropic +spirit, often expend large sums in digging +wells in districts, through which caffilahs +pass, on their road from one country to another. +I knew one of these philanthropists who was at +Santa Cruz, and who had recently benefited the +province of Haha, by having dug a well in the +Kabyl of Benitamer, a mountainous district in +<a name="p151" id="p151"></a><span class="pagenum">[151]</span> +Haha; I sent for him, and as he was under obligations +to me for various services I had rendered +to him and his family, he consented to +accompany me to Mogodor, through the disturbed +province of Haha; and he assured me, +that his influence throughout that province was +such, that, by travelling quick, and without any +baggage, tents, or incumbrances, he did not doubt +of conducting me safe to Mogodor. I agreed to +go with him, without servants, tents, or bedding, +being determined to reconcile myself, under present +circumstances, to the accommodation the +country might afford. We started from Santa +Cruz at sun-set; travelling through Tamaract, to +the river Beni Tamur. We continued our journey +till we arrived, at the dawn of day, at the +foot of immense high mountains, called Idiaugomoron. +Here my companion and guide L'Hage +Muhamed bu Zurrawel, pointed out to me two +castellated houses, about two miles distant from +each other; the family-quarrels of these people +had produced such animosity, that the inhabitants +of neither house could with safety go out, +for fear of being overpowered and killed by those +of the other; so that wherever they went, they +were well armed, but dared not go far. These +two families were preparing for a siege, which +often happens in this province. Thus the inhabitants +of one house attack another, and sometimes +exterminate or put to death the whole +family, with their retainers. The province of +Haha was thus in a state of the most lamentable +<a name="p152" id="p152"></a><span class="pagenum">[152]</span> +civil war, originating from these family-quarrels +and domestic feuds. The heathen and anti-christian +principle of revenge and retaliation, is +here pursued with such bitter and obstinate animosity, +that I have known instances of men relinquishing +their vocation, to go into a far country +to revenge the blood of a relation after a +lapse of twenty years, and pursue the object of +his revenge, for some murder committed in his +family, perhaps forty or fifty years before.</p> + +<p>To a British public, blessed with the benign +influences of the Christian doctrine, it is perhaps +necessary that I should elucidate this retaliative +doctrine by an example:--Two men quarrel, and +fight; they draw their kumäyas (curved daggers +about 12 inches long), which all the people of +Haha wear, as well as all the clans or kabyles of +Shelluhs; and if one happens to give his antagonist +a <i>deadly</i> wound, it becomes an indispensable +duty in the next of kin to the person killed +or murdered, (though perhaps it can hardly be +termed a murder, as it is not committed, like an +European duel, in cold blood, but in the moment +of irritation, and at a period when the mind is +under the influence of anger,) to seek his revenge +by watching an opportunity to kill the survivor +in the contest. If the former should die, his +next of kin takes his place, and pursues his +enemy, whose life is never safe; insomuch that, +whole kabyles, when this deadly animosity has +reached its acme, have been known to quit their +country and emigrate into the Sahara; for when +<a name="p153" id="p153"></a><span class="pagenum">[153]</span> +the second death has been inflicted, it then becomes +the incumbent duty of the next of kin of +the deceased to seek his revenge: they call this +justifying blood. This horrible custom has the +most lamentable influence on the happiness of +human life; for there will sometimes be several individuals +seeking the life of one man, till this principle, +pervading all the ramifications of relationship +and consanguinity, produces family-broils, +hostility, and murder, <i>ad infinitum!!</i> We stopped +at a friend of L'Hage Muhamed, who presented +us with honey and butter, thin shavings of the +latter being let to fall into a bowl of honey for +breakfast. This bowl was served up with flat +cakes kneaded without leaven, and baked on +hot stones; these are converted from corn into +food in less than half an hour; they are in shape +similar to our crumpets or pancakes. We were +pressed by this Shelluh to stay and dine with him, +which being agreed to, he sent a shepherd to his +flock to kill a fat young kid, which was roasted +with a wooden spit, before the vital heat had +subsided, which was very tender, and of an exquisite +flavour. The bread or cakes above described +appear to be similar to what the women +kneaded for the guests in the patriarchal ages: +indeed, the customs of these people, as well as +those of the Arabs, is precisely the same as they +were in the patriarchal ages, and which are delineated +in the 18th chapter of Genesis, 1st to +the 8th verse.</p> + +<p><a name="p154" id="p154"></a><span class="pagenum">[154]</span></p> + +<p>The honey of this province is very fine: it has +an aromatic flavour, derived from the wild thyme +and other aromatic herbs on which the bees +feed. Among these people every meal is preceded +with a washing of their hands with water, +which is brought round for the purpose in a brass +pan; each guest dips his right hand in the pan, +and a napkin is presented to wipe them; they +then break the bread, and, after saying grace, +which is universally this,--<i>bismillah</i>, i.e. "in the +name of God," each guest takes a bit of bread, +dips it in the honey and butter, and eats it. It +is reckoned uncourteous or vulgar to bite the +bread; therefore the piece broken off is sufficient +for a mouthful, so that there is nothing that +should offend a delicate appetite in this antique +mode of eating. We remained several hours with +our hospitable Shelluh friend; and we departed, +after taking a little sleep, at four o'clock in the +afternoon. Travelling all night, we arrived, at the +dawn of day, at a large house in Idaugourd; the +Shelluh to whom it belonged brought us carpets, +and we slept under the wall of his house till the +sun arose. The people of this country prefer +sleeping in the open air to a room, and they +have an excellent mode of securing themselves +from the heavy dews of the night, by covering +their heads and faces with a thin woollen hayk +or garment, which they throw over their heads +and faces. When I have had the Arabs of +Sahara (who have conducted the caffilahs from +Timbuctoo) at my house at Santa Cruz, I gave +them a long narrow room, 48 feet long, which +<a name="p155" id="p155"></a><span class="pagenum">[155]</span> +was called (<i>beet assuda</i>) the apartment of Sudan, +to sleep in; but they invariably came out at night, +and placed their carpets and mats, as beds, outside +of the room, and slept under the balustrade, +in preference to the confinement, as they called +it, of a room.</p> + +<p>We rose at sun-rise, passed through the picturesque +district of Idaugourd and the Woolja, +and entered Mogodor at four o'clock, P.M.</p> + +<p><a name="p156" id="p156"></a><span class="pagenum">[156]</span></p> + +<br><br> + +<h3>AN ACCOUNT</h3> + +<h4>OF THE</h4> + +<h2><i>RISE, PROGRESS, AND DECREASE</i></h2> + +<h4>OF</h4> + +<h1>THE PLAGUE</h1> + +<h3><i>That ravaged Barbary in</i> 1799;</h3> + +<h4>FAITHFULLY EXTRACTED FROM<br> + +LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE HOUSE OF JAMES JACKSON<br> + +AND CO., OR BY JAMES G. JACKSON,<br> + +MERCHANTS AT MOGODOR,</h4> + +<h3>TO THEIR CORRESPONDENTS IN EUROPE, DURING THE<br> + +EPIDEMY.</h3> + +<hr class="short"> + +<br><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Fragments respecting the Plague</i>.</p> + +<p>When the Emperor's army proceeded from Fas +to Marocco in the summer of 1799, a detachment +of which passed by Mogodor, consisting of +20,000 horse and 10,000 foot, it had the plague +with it; so that, wherever it passed, the plague +uniformly appeared three days after its arrival +at the respective douars near which it encamped; +those who died were buried in the tents, and +the people of the provinces knew little about it.</p> + +<p>A large <i>akkaba</i><a id="footnotetag122" name="footnotetag122"></a> +<a href="#footnote122"><sup class="sml">122</sup></a>, consisting of upwards of +1700 camels, arrived 23d August, 1799, at Akka +<a name="p157" id="p157"></a><span class="pagenum">[157]</span> +from Timbuctoo, laden with gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, +and gold dust, which had brought also +many slaves; this <i>akkaba</i> had deposited its merchandize +at Akka, till the plague should disappear +and the country become healthy; as the people +of that territory, unlike Muhamedans in general, +will hold no communication with the infected, +nor will they admit any one from these parts.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote122" +name="footnote122"></a><b>Footnote 122:</b><a href="#footnotetag122"> +(return) </a> An <i>akkaba</i> is an accumulated caravan.</blockquote> + +<p class="rig"> +Mogodor, April 31, 1799.</p><br><br> + +<p>A violent fever now rages at Fas: some assert +it to be the plague, but that is Moorish report, +and little to be depended on; the European consuls +at Tangier, and the Spanish ambassador, +who, having terminated his embassy, has lately +left Mequinas, mention it as an epidemical disorder.</p> + +<p>May 20. The small-pox rages violently throughout +this country, and is of a most virulent kind: +its origin is ascribed to the famine that has of +late pervaded this country, and which was produced +by the incredible devastation of the devouring +locusts; the dregs of olives, after the +oil had been extracted, has been the only food +that could be procured by many thousands.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +Mogodor, June 14, 1799. +</p><br><br> + +<p>Various reports reach us daily from <i>the city of +Marocco</i>, respecting the epidemy that prevails +there, some say 200 die, some say 100, others +<a name="p158" id="p158"></a><span class="pagenum">[158]</span> +limit the daily mortality to 50, in a population, +according to the imperial register, of 270,000.</p> + +<p>When any <i>light</i> rain falls, as is the case at +Marocco at this season of the year, the mortality +increases. Mr. Francisco Chiappe, an Italian +merchant, is just arrived from Marocco, and is +performing quarantine, by his own desire, at the +Emperor's garden.<a id="footnotetag123" name="footnotetag123"></a> +<a href="#footnote123"><sup class="sml">123</sup></a> This gentleman reports, +that the greater portion of the people die of fear, +from hunger, or bad food, or from the small-pox, +which latter has raged at Marocco the last month +or two; but he had not been able to ascertain, so +various were the reports, whether it was the +plague or not. The emperor's army, a division +of which passed through this country, and encamped +at the river, about two miles south of +this port, had the distemper with it. We have +been assured, that the soldiers who died, were +immediately buried within the tents, so that, by +this stratagem, the mortality was not perceived +by the public; it was apprehended that, if the +mortality were known, the kabyls, through which +the army passed from Mequinas to Marocco, +would not have supplied the troops with provision. +This detachment consisted of 20,000 +horse and 10,000 foot. No disorder has yet appeared +here, nor in the adjacent provinces of +Shedma and Haha.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote123" +name="footnote123"></a><b>Footnote 123:</b><a href="#footnotetag123"> +(return) </a> A garden in the province of Haha, five miles from +Mogodor, that was presented to the European merchants by +the late sultan, Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p159" id="p159"></a><span class="pagenum">[159]</span></p> + +<p>July 5. We dispatched the Spanish brig yesterday; +but she is still at anchor in the road, waiting +for passengers, who fly from hence with precipitation, +from fear of the fever or plague, which +prevails at Fas and at Marocco, and which, it is +reported, has made its appearance at the port of +Saffy. We have, however, nothing of the kind +here yet, though we expect we shall not escape +the general scourge.</p> + +<p>July 13. The epidemy in the interior provinces +has greatly augmented, insomuch, that the +demand for linen to bury the dead rapidly increases, +and the stock is almost exhausted. This +article has risen to an unprecedented price. All +the relatives of L'Hage Abdallah have fallen victims +to the epidemy. This gentleman is consequently +in possession of very considerable property; +and (if he be not also carried off) there +will be no fear of our recovering the debt he +owes you.</p> + +<p>We cannot ascertain if the disorder prevails in +the outer town, and in the Jews' quarter, or not; it +is certain, however, that eight or ten die daily of +the small-pox, and as many more of fevers and +other disorders, as report proclaims.</p> + +<p>July 25. We are so much engaged in making +arrangements against the epidemy, which is now +confidently reported to us to be the plague, of a +most deadly species, that we have only time to +refer you to the captain of the Aurora, to whom +we have communicated every particular, and who +<a name="p160" id="p160"></a><span class="pagenum">[160]</span> +is extremely anxious to be off for England. The +deaths in this town, which contained a population +of 10,000, according to the imperial register, +are from forty to fifty each day.</p> + +<p>Aug. 1. As the plague now rages violently +here, no one thinks of business or the affairs of +this world; but each individual anticipates that +he will be next called away. I send the inclosed, +to be forwarded to Mr. Andrea de Christo, at +Amsterdam, to announce to him the sudden +death of his partner, Mr. J. Pacifico, who is +lately dead of the plague. I paid him a visit a +few hours before his death; I met there Don +Pedro de Victoria, who was smoking a segar; +he offered me one, and urged me to smoke it. I +believe that the smoke of tobacco is anti-pestilential; +this, added to the precaution of avoiding +contact, and inhalation of the breath of the +person infected, appears to be quite sufficient to +secure a person from infection.</p> + +<p>Aug. 1. (Translation of a letter to Mr. Andrea +de Christi, merchant at Amsterdam.) We are +sorry that the subject of this letter is so melancholy. +All our domestics have left us; the plague +rages so violently here, that the daily mortality +is from sixty to seventy, among which we are +sorry to announce the death of your partner, +Mr. J. Pacifico, who died two days since.</p> + +<p>August 23. The best gum is selling at +Akka for six dollars a quintal: they will not +bring it here, fearing the infection. A large +Brazil ship has been wrecked off Cape Noon, +<a name="p161" id="p161"></a><span class="pagenum">[161]</span> +her cargo, consisting for the most part of silks +and linens, is estimated at half a million of +dollars. The Arabs of Sahara convert the most +beautiful lace into bridles for their horses, by +twisting it; and superior silk stockings are selling +at Wedinoon at a dollar per dozen pair. The +plague is rapidly diminishing from 100 deaths +to 20 or 30 per day. Meeman Corcoes is dead, +as well as most of the principal tradesmen of +Marocco and Fas; whole families have been +swept off, and there is none left to inherit their +property. Immense droves of horses, mules, and +cattle of every description stray in the plains +without owners.</p> + +<p>September 5. The plague continues to decrease; +and in another month we expect to be quite +free from it. Signor Conton died this morning +of the epidemy; yesterday afternoon he was apparently +quite well, and paid me a visit. He wished +me to shake hands with him, which I declined, +alleging as an excuse, that I would dispense +with that custom till the plague should pass +over. He drank a glass of wine, and appeared +cheerful and in good health. I have had fixed in +my dining room, a table that extends from one +end to the other. I walk or sit on one side +of the table, my visitors on the other. I am +only cautious to avoid personal contact. All +the houses of the other merchants are closely +barricaded or bolted. A fumigating pot of gum +<a name="p162" id="p162"></a><span class="pagenum">[162]</span> +sandrac stands at the entrance of my house, +continually burning, which diffuses an agreeable +perfume, but is not, as I apprehend, an antidote +to the epidemy.</p> + +<p>October 1. We have to apprise you of the +decease of L'Hage Abdallah El Hareishy, most +of whose relations are dead. His brother is the +only one of the family besides himself that +remains: he has inherited considerable property, +and thence will be enabled to pay your bill on +him in our favour.</p> + +<p>October 29. The plague appears to have +ceased in this town. All the merchants have +opened their houses; but the disorder continues +in the provinces, from whence there is little +or no communication with the town. The kabyls +seem to be wholly engaged in burying their +dead, in arranging the affairs of their respective +families, in dividing the property inherited by +them, and in administering consolation to the +sick.</p> + +<p>Nov. 11. The plague having committed incalculable +ravages throughout this country, had put +a stop to all commerce, which now begins to +revive, in proportion as that calamity subsides. +Linens are selling to great advantage, a cargo +would now render 60 per cent. profit, clear of all +charges.</p> + +<p>Nov. 29. The deadly epidemy that has +lately visited us, and which at one period carried +off above 100 each day, has now confined its +<a name="p163" id="p163"></a><span class="pagenum">[163]</span> +daily mortality to two or three; some days none. +When, however, the Arabs of Shedma, and the +Shelluhs of Haha come to town, and bring the +clothes of their deceased relations for sale, the +epidemy increases to three, four, and five a day; +then, in three or four days, it declines again to +its former number, one, two, or three. We have +reason to expect, that, before the vessels which +we expect from London shall arrive, the plague +will have subsided entirely.</p> + +<p>Mogodor, Dec. 12. 1799. The plague or +mortality of this town is now reduced to three +or four weekly.</p> + +<p class="mid">OBSERVATION.</p> + +<p>After the plague had subsided, a murrain +attacked the cattle, and great numbers of all +kinds died; so that they became reduced in the +same proportion as the race of man had been +reduced before.</p> +<br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to<br> +Mr. Jackson</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +Gibraltar, 28th Oct. 1799.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Dear Jackson; +</span></p><br> + +<p>Within a few days of each other, I received +your packets of the 21st of September, and +8th instant. Their inclosures are of course +<a name="p164" id="p164"></a><span class="pagenum">[164]</span> +taken care of. Your letter about Soke Assa +was received, and sent home to government +ages ago.</p> + +<p>I never could understand the drift of the people +either at Tangier or Mogodor, in asserting that +my report of the plague was political. God +knows, that our politics in Barbary are never +remarkable for refinement: they are, if any +thing, rather too much in the John Bull style; +and the finesse they gave me such credit for, +was absolutely beyond my comprehension, as I +never could discover what advantage a genuine +well-established plague in Barbary could be to +our country. Of its existence I had not the +shadow of doubt, for more than eight months +before it was talked of; and when Doctor Bell +was going that way, I begged of him to be +particular in his enquiries, which he, as usual, +neglected. When John Salmon<a id="footnotetag124" name="footnotetag124"></a> +<a href="#footnote124"><sup class="sml">124</sup></a> was up, he +was <i>very particular</i>, and <i>I</i> of course was +laughed at. <i>Here</i> I saw politics, and told +all the gentlemen, that when Salmon<a id="footnotetag125" name="footnotetag125"></a> +<a href="#footnote125"><sup class="sml">125</sup></a> arrived +at Tariffa, then, and not till then, we should +have the plague in Barbary; and just so it +turned out.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote124" +name="footnote124"></a><b>Footnote 124:</b><a href="#footnotetag124"> +(return) </a> John Salmon was Spanish envoy to the emperor of +Marocco, and was at this time up at Fas, <i>i.e.</i> on his +embassy.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote125" +name="footnote125"></a><b>Footnote 125:</b><a href="#footnotetag125"> +(return) </a> Arrived at Tariffa, and so secured his admission into +Spain on his return from his embassy.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p165" id="p165"></a><span class="pagenum">[165]</span></p> + +<p>I am confident, if my advice had been taken, +the disease might have been checked in the +beginning; for it was almost three quarters of a +year confined to <i>old</i> Fas. I wrote in the most +pressing manner to Ben Ottoman<a id="footnotetag126" name="footnotetag126"></a> +<a href="#footnote126"><sup class="sml">126</sup></a>, who never +believed me. A few days before he was seized +with it, he wrote me a melancholy letter for +advice, and pathetically lamented that he had +not listened to me in time; and I suppose that +even Broussonet<a id="footnotetag127" name="footnotetag127"></a> +<a href="#footnote127"><sup class="sml">127</sup></a> believed me when he embarked. +I hope your opinion that it diminishes +with you will prove well founded; but I fear its +ravages are only suspended by the great heats; +besides, you should recollect that people cannot +die twice, and with a population so diminished, +you must not expect so many as formerly on +your daily dead-list. Mrs. M., who desires her +remembrance to you, is well, but barring plague, +would rather be at Tangier than Gibraltar; so +would I.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +Ever truly thine,<br> +J. MATRA. +</p><br><br><br> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote126" +name="footnote126"></a><b>Footnote 126:</b><a href="#footnotetag126"> +(return) </a> The emperor's prime-minister, or <i>talb cadus</i> at that time.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote127" +name="footnote127"></a><b>Footnote 127:</b><a href="#footnotetag127"> +(return) </a> Dr. Broussonet, French consul. This gentleman was intendant +of the botanical garden at Montpelier: he, with +another doctor embarked for Europe just as the plague +began to appear at Mogodor in the year 1799.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p166" id="p166"></a><span class="pagenum">[166]</span></p> +<br> + +<p><i>Some Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated +West Barbary in 1799 and 1800, and to the +Effects of which the Author was an eye-witness.</i></p> + +<p>From various circumstances and appearances, +and from the character of the epidemical distemper +which raged lately in the south of Spain, +there is every reason to suppose, it was similar +to that distemper or plague which depopulated +West Barbary; for, whether we call it by the +more reconcileable appellation of the epidemy, +or yellow fever, it was undoubtedly a plague, and +a most destructive one; for wherever it prevailed, +it invariably carried off, in a few months, one-half, +or one-third, of the population.</p> + +<p>It does not appear how the plague originated +in Fas in the year 1799.<a id="footnotetag128" name="footnotetag128"></a> +<a href="#footnote128"><sup class="sml">128</sup></a> Some persons, who +were there at the time it broke out, have confidently +ascribed it to infected merchandise imported +into that place from the East; whilst +others, of equal veracity and judgment, have not +scrupled to ascribe it to the locusts which had +infested West Barbary during the seven preceding +years, the destruction of which was followed +by the (<i>jedrie</i>) small-pox, which pervaded +<a name="p167" id="p167"></a><span class="pagenum">[167]</span> +the country, and was generally fatal. The <i>jedrie</i> +is supposed to be the forerunner of this species of +epidemy, as appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, +which gives an account of the same +disorder having carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants +of West Barbary about four centuries +since. But however this destructive epidemy +originated, its leading features were novel, and +its consequences more dreadful than the common +plague of Turkey, or that of Syria, or Egypt. +Let every one freely declare his own sentiments +about it; let him assign any credible account of +its rise, or the causes that introduced so terrible +a scene. I shall relate only what its symptoms +were, what it actually was, and how it terminated, +having been an eye-witness of its dreadful effects, +and having seen and visited many who were afflicted, +and who were dying with it.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote128" +name="footnote128"></a><b>Footnote 128:</b><a href="#footnotetag128"> +(return) </a> See the Author's observations, in a letter to Mr. Willis, +in Gentleman's Magazine, February, 1805.</blockquote> + +<p>In the month of April, 1799, a dreadful +plague, of a most destructive nature, manifested +itself in the city of Old Fas, which soon after +communicated itself to the new city. This unparalleled +calamity, carried off one or two the +first day, three or four the second day, six or +eight the third day, and increasing progressively, +until the mortality amounted to two in the hundred +of the aggregate population, continuing +<i>with unabating violence</i>, ten, fifteen, or twenty +days; being of longer duration in old than in +new towns; then diminishing in a progressive +proportion from one thousand a day to nine hundred, +<a name="p168" id="p168"></a><span class="pagenum">[168]</span> +then to eight hundred, and so on until it +disappeared. Whatever recourse was had to +medicine and to physicians was unavailing; so +that such expedients were at length totally relinquished, +and the people, overpowered by this +terrible scourge, lost all hopes of surviving it.</p> + +<p>Whilst it raged in the town of Mogodor, a +small village, <i>Diabet</i>, situated about two miles +south-east of that place, remained uninfected, +although the communication was open between +them: on the <i>thirty-fourth day</i>, however, after +its first appearance at Mogodor, this village was +discovered to be infected, and the disorder raged +with great violence, making dreadful havock +among the human species for <i>twenty-one</i> days, +carrying off, during that period, one hundred +persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, the +original population of the village, before the +plague visited it; none died after this, and those +who were infected, recovered in the course of a +month or two, some losing an eye, or the use of a +leg or an arm.</p> + +<p>Many similar circumstances might be here adduced +relative to the numerous and populous +villages dispersed through the extensive Shelluh +province of Haha, all which shared a similar or +a worse fate. Travelling through this province +shortly after the plague had exhausted itself, I +saw many uninhabited ruins, which I had before +witnessed as flourishing villages; on making enquiry +concerning the population of these dismal +<a name="p169" id="p169"></a><span class="pagenum">[169]</span> +remains, I was informed that in one village, +which contained six hundred inhabitants, four +persons only had escaped the ravage. Other +villages, which had contained four or five hundred, +had only seven or eight survivors left to +relate the calamities they had suffered. Families +which had retired to the country to avoid the +infection, on returning to town, when all infection +had apparently ceased, were generally +attacked, and died; a singular instance of this +kind happened at Mogodor, where, after the +mortality had subsided, a corps of troops arrived +from the city of Terodant, in the province of +Suse, where the plague had been raging, and +had subsided; these troops, after remaining +three days at Mogodor, were attacked with the +disease, and it raged exclusively among them +for about a month, during which it carried off +two-thirds of their original number, one hundred +men; during this interval the other inhabitants +of the town were exempt from the disorder, +though these troops were not confined to any +particular quarter, many of them having had +apartments in the houses of the inhabitants of +the town.</p> + +<p>The destruction of the human species in the +province of Suse was considerably greater than +elsewhere; Terodant, formerly the metropolis +of a kingdom, but now that of Suse, lost, when +the infection was at its acme, about eight hundred +each day; the ruined, but still extensive +<a name="p170" id="p170"></a><span class="pagenum">[170]</span> +city of Marocco<a id="footnotetag129" name="footnotetag129"></a> +<a href="#footnote129"><sup class="sml">129</sup></a>, lost one thousand each day; +the populous cities of Old and New Fas diminished +in population twelve or fifteen hundred +each day<a id="footnotetag130" name="footnotetag130"></a> +<a href="#footnote130"><sup class="sml">130</sup></a>, insomuch, that in these extensive +cities, the mortality was so great, that the living +having not time to bury the dead, the bodies +were deposited or thrown altogether into large +holes, which, when nearly full, were covered +over with earth. All regulations in matters of +sepulture before observed were now no longer +regarded; things sacred and things prophane had +now lost their distinction, and universal despair +pervaded mankind. Young, healthy, and robust +persons of full stamina, were, for the most part, +attacked first, then women and children, and +lastly, thin, sickly, emaciated, and old people.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote129" +name="footnote129"></a><b>Footnote 129:</b><a href="#footnotetag129"> +(return) </a> I have been informed that there are still at Marocco, +apartments wherein the dead were placed; and that after +the whole family was swept away the doors were built up, +and remain so to this day.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote130" +name="footnote130"></a><b>Footnote 130:</b><a href="#footnotetag130"> +(return) </a> There died, during the whole of the above periods, in +the city of Marocco, 50,000; in Fas, 65,000; in Mogodor, +4500; and in Saffy, 5000; in all 124,500 souls!</blockquote> + +<p>After this violent and deadly calamity had +subsided, we beheld a general alteration in the +fortunes and circumstances of men; we saw persons +who before the plague were common labourers, +now in possession of thousands, and +keeping horses without knowing how to ride +them. Parties of this description were met +wherever we went, and the men of family called +<a name="p171" id="p171"></a><span class="pagenum">[171]</span> +them in derision <i>el wuratu</i>, the inheritors.<a id="footnotetag131" name="footnotetag131"></a> +<a href="#footnote131"><sup class="sml">131</sup></a> Provisions +also became extremely cheap and abundant; +the flocks and herds had been left in the +fields, and there was now no one to own them; +and the propensity to plunder, so notoriously +attached to the character of the Arab, as well as +to the Shelluh and Moor, was superseded by a +conscientious regard to justice, originating from +a continual apprehension of dissolution, and that +the <i>el khere</i><a id="footnotetag132" name="footnotetag132"></a> +<a href="#footnote132"><sup class="sml">132</sup></a>, as the plague was now called, +was a judgment of the Omnipotent on the disobedience +of man, and that it behoved every individual +to amend his conduct, as a preparation +to his departure for paradise.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote131" +name="footnote131"></a><b>Footnote 131:</b><a href="#footnotetag131"> +(return) </a> <i>Des gens parvenus</i>, as the French express it; or +upstarts.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote132" +name="footnote132"></a><b>Footnote 132:</b><a href="#footnotetag132"> +(return) </a> The good, or benediction.</blockquote> + +<p>The expense of labour at the same time increased +enormously<a id="footnotetag133" name="footnotetag133"></a> +<a href="#footnote133"><sup class="sml">133</sup></a>, and never was equality in +the human species more conspicuous than at this +time; when corn was to be ground, or bread +baked, both were performed in the houses of the +affluent, and prepared by themselves, for the +very few people whom the plague had spared, +were insufficient to administer to the wants of +the rich and independent, and they were accordingly +compelled to work for themselves, performing personally +the menial offices of their respective families.</p> + +<p><a name="p172" id="p172"></a><span class="pagenum">[172]</span></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote133" +name="footnote133"></a><b>Footnote 133:</b><a href="#footnotetag133"> +(return) </a> At this time I received from Marocco a caravan of many +camel-loads of bees-wax, in serrons containing 200 lbs. each; +I sent for workmen to place them one upon another, and they +demanded one dollar per serron for so moving them.</blockquote> + +<p>The country being now depopulated, and much +of the territory without owners, vast tribes of +Arabs emigrated from their abodes in the interior +of Sahara, and took possession of the country +contiguous to the river Draha, as well as many +districts in Suse; and, in short, settling themselves, +and pitching their tents wherever they +found a fertile country with little or no population.</p> + +<p>The symptoms of this plague varied in different +patients, the variety of age and constitution +gave it a like variety of appearance and character. +Those who enjoyed perfect health were +suddenly seized with head-aches and inflammations; +the tongue and throat became of a +vivid red, the breath was drawn with difficulty, +and was succeeded by sneezing and hoarseness; +when once settled in the stomach, it excited +vomitings of black bile, attended with excessive +torture, weakness, hiccough, and convulsion. +Some were seized with sudden shivering, or delirium, +and had a sensation of such intense +inward heat, that they threw off their clothes, +and would have walked about naked in quest of +water wherein to plunge themselves. Cold water +was eagerly resorted to by the unwary and imprudent, +and proved fatal to those who indulged +in its momentary relief. Some had one, two, or +more buboes, which formed themselves, and +<a name="p173" id="p173"></a><span class="pagenum">[173]</span> +became often as large as a walnut, in the course +of a day; others had a similar number of carbuncles; +others had both buboes and carbuncles, +which generally appeared in the groin, under the +arm, or near the breast. Those who were affected<a id="footnotetag134" name="footnotetag134"></a> +<a href="#footnote134"><sup class="sml">134</sup></a> +with a shivering, having no buboe, carbuncle, +spots, or any other exterior disfiguration, +were invariably carried off in less than twenty-four +hours, and the body of the deceased became +quickly putrified, so that it was indispensably +necessary to bury it a few hours after dissolution. +It is remarkable, that the birds of the air fled +away from the abode of men, for none were to +be seen during this calamitous period; the +<a name="p174" id="p174"></a><span class="pagenum">[174]</span> +hyænas, on the contrary, visited the cemeteries, +and sought the dead bodies to devour them. I +recommended Mr. Baldwin's<a id="footnotetag135" name="footnotetag135"></a> +<a href="#footnote135"><sup class="sml">135</sup></a> invaluable remedy +of olive oil, applied according to his directions; +several Jews, and some Muselmin<a id="footnotetag136" name="footnotetag136"></a> +<a href="#footnote136"><sup class="sml">136</sup></a>, were induced +to try it, and I was afterwards visited by many, +to whom I had recommended it, and had given +them written directions in Arabic how to apply +it: and I do not know any instance of its failing +when persevered in, even after the infection had +manifested itself.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote134" +name="footnote134"></a><b>Footnote 134:</b><a href="#footnotetag134"> +(return) </a> <i>M'drob</i> is an idiom in the Arabic language somewhat +difficult to render into English; it is well known that the +Muhamedans are predestinarians, and that they believe in +the existence of spirits, devils, &c.; their idea of the plague is, +that it is a good or blessing sent from God to clear the world +of a superfluous population--that no medicine or precaution +can cure or prevent it; that every one who is to be a victim +to it is (<i>mktube</i>) recorded in the Book of Fate; that there are +certain Genii who preside over the fate of men, and who +sometimes discover themselves in various forms, having often +legs similar to those of fowls: that these Genii are armed +with arrows: that when a person is attacked by the plague, +which is called in Arabic <i>l'amer</i>, or the destiny or decree, he +is shot by one of these Genii, and the sensation of the invisible +wound is similar to that from a musquet-ball; hence the +universal application of <i>M'drob</i> to a person afflicted with the +plague, i.e. he is shot; and if he die, <i>ufah ameruh</i>, his destiny +is completed or terminated (in this world). I scarcely +ever yet saw the Muselman who did not affirm that he had at +some time of his life seen these Genii; and they often appear, +they say, in rivers.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote135" +name="footnote135"></a><b>Footnote 135:</b><a href="#footnotetag135"> +(return) </a> Late British Consul in Egypt.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote136" +name="footnote136"></a><b>Footnote 136:</b><a href="#footnotetag136"> +(return) </a> Muselman, sing.: Muselmin. plur.</blockquote> + +<p>I have no doubt but the epidemy which made +its appearance at Cadiz, and all along the +southern shores of Spain, immediately as the +plague was subsiding in West Barbary, was the +same disorder with the one above described, +suffering, after its passage to a Christian country, +some variation, originating from the different +modes of living, and other circumstances; for +nothing can be more opposite than the food, +dress, customs, and manners of Muhamedans +and Christians, notwithstanding the approximation +of Spain to Marocco. We have been credibly +informed, that it was communicated originally +to Spain, by two infected persons, who +went from Tangier to Estapona, a small village +on the opposite shore; who, after eluding the +vigilance of the guards, reached Cadiz. We have +also been assured that it was communicated by +some infected persons who landed in Spain, from +<a name="p175" id="p175"></a><span class="pagenum">[175]</span> +a vessel that had loaded produce at L'Araiche in +West Barbary. Another account was, that a +Spanish privateer, which had occasion to land +its crew for the purpose of procuring water in +some part of West Barbary, caught the infection +from communicating with the natives, and afterwards +proceeding to Cadiz, and spread it in that +town and the adjacent country.</p> + +<p>It should be observed, for the information of +those who may be desirous of investigating the +nature of this extraordinary distemper, that, from +its character and its symptoms, approximating to +the peculiar plague, which (according to the +before mentioned Arabic record) ravaged and +depopulated West Barbary four centuries since, +the Arabs and Moors were of opinion it would +subside after the first year, and not appear again +the next, as the Egyptian plague does; and +agreeably to this opinion, it did not re-appear +the second year: neither did St. John's day, or +that season, affect its virulence; but about that +period there prevails along the coast of West +Barbary, a trade-wind, which, beginning to blow +in the month of May, continues throughout the +months of June, July, and August, with little intermission. +It was apprehended that the influence +of this trade-wind, added to the superstitious +opinion of the plague ceasing on St. John's +day, would stop, or at least sensibly diminish the +mortality; but no such thing happened: the +wind did set in, as it invariably does, about +St. John's day; the disorder, however, increased +<a name="p176" id="p176"></a><span class="pagenum">[176]</span> +at that period, rather than diminished. Some +persons were of opinion, that the infection maintained +its virulence till the last; that the decrease +of mortality did not originate from a decrease of +the <i>miasma</i>, but from a decrease of population, +and a consequent want of subjects to prey upon; +and this indeed is a plausible idea; but admitting +it to be just, how are we to account for the +almost invariable fatality of the disorder, when +at its height, and the comparative innocence of +it when on the decline? for <i>then</i>, the chance to +those who had it, was, that they would recover +and survive the malady.</p> + +<p>The old men seemed to indulge in a superstitious +tradition, that when this peculiar kind of +epidemy attacks a country, it does not return or +continue for three or more years, but disappears +altogether, (after the first year,) and is followed +the seventh year by contagious rheums and expectoration, +the violence of which lasts from +three to seven days, but is not fatal. Whether +this opinion be in general founded in truth I +cannot determine; but in the spring of the year +1806, which was the seventh year from the appearance +of the plague at Fas in 1799, a species +of influenza pervaded the whole country; the +patient going to bed well, and, on rising in the +morning, a thick phlegm was expectorated, accompanied +by a distressing rheum, or cold in the +head, with a cough, which quickly reduced those +affected to extreme weakness, but was seldom +fatal, continuing from three to seven days, with +more or less violence, and then gradually disappearing.</p> + +<p><a name="p177" id="p177"></a><span class="pagenum">[177]</span></p> + +<p>During the plague at Mogodor, the European +merchants shut themselves up in their respective +houses, as is the practice in the Levant; I did +not take this precaution, but occasionally rode +out to take exercise on horseback. Riding one +day out of the town, I met the Governor's +brother, who asked me where I was going, when +every other European was shut up? "To the +garden," I answered.--"And are you not aware +that the garden and the adjacent country is full +of (<i>Jinune</i>) departed souls, who are busy in +smiting with the plague every one they meet?" +I could not help smiling, but told him, that I +trusted to God only, who would not allow any +of the <i>Jinune</i> to smite me unless it were his +sovereign will, and that if it were, he could effect +it without the agency of <i>Jinune</i>. On my return +to town in the evening, the beach, from the +town-gate to the sanctuary of Seedi,<a id="footnotetag137" name="footnotetag137"></a> +<a href="#footnote137"><sup class="sml">137</sup></a> Mogodole +was covered with biers. My daily observations +convinced me that the epidemy was not caught +by approach, unless that approach was accompanied +by an inhaling of the breath, or by touching +the infected person; I therefore had a separation +made across the gallery, inside of my +house, between the kitchen and dining parlour, +of the width of three feet, which is sufficiently +wide to prevent the inhaling the breath of a +<a name="p178" id="p178"></a><span class="pagenum">[178]</span> +person. From this partition or table of separation +I took the dishes, and after dinner returned +them to the same place, suffering none of the +servants to come near me; and in the accounting-house, +I had a partition made to prevent +the too near approach of any person who +might call on business; and this precaution I +firmly believe to be all that is necessary, added +to that of receiving money through vinegar, and +taking care not to touch or smell infectious +substances.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote137" +name="footnote137"></a><b>Footnote 137:</b><a href="#footnotetag137"> +(return) </a> A sanctuary a mile south-east of the town of Mogodor, +from whence, the town receives its name.</blockquote> + +<p>Fear had an extraordinary effect in disposing +the body to receive the infection; and those who +were subject thereto, invariably caught the +malady, which was for the most part fatal. At +the breaking out of the plague at Mogodor, +there were two medical men, an Italian and a +Frenchman, the latter, a man of science, a great +botanist, and of an acute discrimination; they, +however, did not remain, but took the first opportunity +of leaving the place for Teneriffe, so +that the few Europeans had no expectation of +any medical assistance except that of the natives. +Plaisters of gum ammoniac, and the juice of +the leaves of the <i>opuntia</i>, or <i>kermuse ensarrah</i>, +<i>i.e.</i> prickly pear, were universally applied to the +carbuncles, as well as to the buboes, which quickly +brought them to suppuration: many of the people +of property took copious draughts of coffee and +Peruvian bark. The <i>Vinaigre de quatre voleurs</i>, +was used by many, also camphor, smoking +<a name="p179" id="p179"></a><span class="pagenum">[179]</span> +tobacco, or fumigations of gum Sandrac; straw +was also burned by some, who were of opinion, +that any thing which produced abundance of +smoke, was sufficient to purify the air of pestilential +effluvia.</p> + +<p>During the existence of the plague, I had +been in the chambers of men on their death-bed: +I had had Europeans at my table, who were infected, +as well as Moors, who actually had buboes +on them; I took no other precaution than that +of separation, carefully avoiding to touch the +hand, or inhale the breath; and, notwithstanding +what may have been said, I am decidedly of +opinion that the plague, at least this peculiar +species of it, is not produced by any infectious +principle in the atmosphere, but caught solely +by touching infected substances, or inhaling the +breath of those who are diseased; and that it +must not be confounded with the common plague +of Egypt, or Constantinople, being a malady of +a much more desperate and destructive kind. It +has been said, by persons who have discussed the +nature and character of the plague, that the cultivation +of a country, the draining of the lands, +and other agricultural improvements, tend to +eradicate or diminish it; but, at the same time, +we have seen countries depopulated where there +was no morass, or stagnate water for many days' +journey, nor even a tree to impede the current +of air, or a town, nor any thing but encampments +of Arabs, who procured water from wells of a +great depth, and inhabited plains so extensive +<a name="p180" id="p180"></a><span class="pagenum">[180]</span> +and uniform, that they resemble the sea, and are +so similar in appearance after, as well as before +sun-rise, that if the eye could abstract itself +from the spot immediately surrounding the spectator, +it could not be ascertained whether it were +sea or land.</p> + +<p>I shall now subjoin a few cases for the further +elucidation of this distemper, hoping that the +medical reader will pardon any inaccuracy originating +from my not being a professional man.</p> + +<p>Case I.--One afternoon, I went into the kitchen, +and saw the cook making the bread; he +appeared in good health and spirits; I afterwards +went into the adjoining parlour, and took +up a book to read; in half an hour the same man +came to the door of the room, with his eyes +starting from his head, and his bed-clothes, &c. +in his hands, saying, "open the gate for me, for +I am (<i>m'dorb</i>) smitten." I was astonished at the +sudden transition, and desired him to go out, and +I would follow and shut the gate. The next +morning he sent his wife out on an errand, and +got out of bed, and came to the gate half-dressed, +saying that he was quite recovered, and +desired I would let him in. I did not, however, +think it safe to admit him, but told him to go +back to his house for a few days, until he should +be able to ascertain that he was quite well; he +accordingly returned to his apartments, but +expired that evening, and before day-break his +body was in such a state, that his feet were +actually putrified. His wife, by attending on him, +<a name="p181" id="p181"></a><span class="pagenum">[181]</span> +caught the infection, having a carbuncle, and +also buboes, and was confined two months before +she recovered.</p> + +<p>Case II.--L'Hage Hamed O Bryhim, the old +governor of Mogodor, had twelve or more children, +and four wives, who were all attacked, and +died (except only one young wife); he attended +them successively to the grave, and notwithstanding +that he assisted in performing the religious +ceremony of washing the body, he never +himself caught the infection; he lived some +years afterwards, and out of the whole household, +consisting of wives, concubines, children, +and slaves, he had but one person left, which +was the before-mentioned young wife: this lady, +however, had received the infection, and was +confined some time before she recovered.</p> + +<p>Case. III.--Hamed ben A---- was smitten +with the plague, which he compared to the sensation +of two musket balls fired at him, one in +each thigh; a giddiness and delirium succeeded, +and immediately afterwards a green vomiting, +and he fell senseless to the ground; a short time +afterwards, on the two places where he had felt +as if shot, biles or buboes formed, and on suppurating, +discharged a foetid black pus; a (<i>jimmera</i>) +carbuncle on the joint of the arm near the +elbow was full of thin ichor, contained in an elevated +skin, surrounded by a burning red colour; +after three months' confinement, being reduced +to a skeleton, the disorder appeared to have exhausted +itself, and he began to recover his +<a name="p182" id="p182"></a><span class="pagenum">[182]</span> +strength, which in another month was fully reestablished. +It was an observation founded on +daily experience, during the prevalence of this +disorder, that those who were attacked with a +nausea at the stomach, and a subsequent vomiting +of green or yellow bile, recovered after suffering +in various degrees, and that those who +were affected with giddiness, or delirium, followed +by a discharge or vomiting of black bile, +invariably died after lingering one, two, or three +days, their bodies being covered with small black +spots similar to grains of gun-powder; in this +state, however, they possessed their intellects, +and spoke rationally till their dissolution.</p> + +<p>When the constitution was not disposed, or had +not vigour enough to throw the miasma to the +surface in the form of biles, buboes, carbuncles, +or blackish spots, the virulence is supposed to +have operated inwardly, or on the vital parts, +and the patient died in less than twenty-four +hours, without any exterior disfiguration.</p> + +<p>Case IV.--It was reported that the Sultan +had the plague twice during the season, as many +others had; so that the idea of its attacking like +the small-pox, a person but once in his life, is +refuted: the Sultan was cured by large doses of +Peruvian bark frequently repeated, and it was +said that he found such infinite benefit from it, +that he advised his brothers never to travel +without having a good supply. The Emperor, +since the plague, always has by him a sufficient +quantity of quill bark to supply his emergency.</p> + +<p><a name="p183" id="p183"></a><span class="pagenum">[183]</span></p> + +<p>Case V.--H.L. was smitten with the plague, +which affected him by a pain similar to that of a +long needle (as he expressed himself) repeatedly +plunged into his groin. In an hour or two afterwards, +a (<i>jimmera</i>) carbuncle appeared in the +groin, which continued enlarging three days, at +the expiration of which period he could neither +support the pain, nor conceal his sensations; he +laid himself down on a couch; an Arabian doctor, +applied to the carbuncles the testicles of a ram +cut in half, whilst the vital warmth was still in +them; the carbuncle on the third day was encreased +to the size of a small orange; the before-mentioned +remedy was daily applied during thirty +days, after which he resorted to cataplasms of +the juice of the (<i>opuntia</i>) prickly pear-tree, +(<i>feshook</i>) gum ammoniac, and (<i>zite el aud</i>) oil +of olives, of each one-third; this was intended +to promote suppuration, which was soon effected; +there remained after the suppuration a large +vacuity, which was daily filled with fine hemp +dipped in honey; by means of this application the +wound filled up, and the whole was well in thirty-nine +days.</p> + +<p>Case VI.--El H--t--e, a trading Jew of +Mogodor, was sorely afflicted; he called upon +me, and requested some remedy; I advised him +to use oil of olives, and having Mr. Baldwin's +mode of administering it<a id="footnotetag138" name="footnotetag138"></a> +<a href="#footnote138"><sup class="sml">138</sup></a>, I transcribed it in +<a name="p184" id="p184"></a><span class="pagenum">[184]</span> +the Arabic language, and gave it to him; he +followed the prescription, and assured me, about +six weeks afterwards, that (with the blessing of +God) he had preserved his life by that remedy only; +he said, that after having been anointed +with oil, his skin became harsh and dry like the +scales of a fish, but that in half an hour more, +a profuse perspiration came on, and continued +for another half hour, after which he experienced +relief: this he repeated forty days, when, +he was quite recovered.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote138" +name="footnote138"></a><b>Footnote 138:</b><a href="#footnotetag138"> +(return) </a> Mr. Baldwin observed, that, whilst the plague ravaged +Egypt, the dealers in oil were not affected with the epidemy; +and he accordingly recommended people to anoint themselves +with oil every day as a remedy.</blockquote> + +<p>Case VII.--Moh--m'd ben A---- fell +suddenly down in the street; he was conveyed +home; three carbuncles and five buboes appeared +soon after in his groin, under the joint +of his knee, and arm-pits, and inside the elbow; +he died in three hours after the attack.</p> + +<p>Case VIII.--L.R. was suddenly smitten +with this dreadful calamity, whilst looking over +some Marocco leather; he fell instantaneously; +afterwards, when he had recovered his senses, +he described the sensation as that of the pricking +of needles, at every part wherein the carbuncles +afterwards appeared: he died the same day in +defiance of medicine.</p> + +<p>Case IX.--Mr. Pacifico, a merchant, was +attacked, and felt a pricking pain down the +inside of the thick part of the thigh, near the +sinews; he was obliged to go to bed. I visited +him the next day, and was going to approach +him, but he exclaimed, "Do not come near +for although I know I have not the prevailing +<a name="p185" id="p185"></a><span class="pagenum">[185]</span> +distemper, yet your friends, if you touch +me, may persuade you otherwise, and that might +alarm you; I shall, I hope, be well in a few +days." I took the hint of Don Pedro de Victoria, +a Spanish gentleman, who was in the +room, who, offering me a sagar, I smoked it, +and then departed; the next day the patient +died. He was attended during his illness by +the philanthropic Monsieur Soubremont, who +did not stir from his bed-side till he expired; +but after exposing himself in this manner, +escaped the infection, which proceeded, as he +thought, from his constantly having a pipe in +his mouth.</p> + +<p>Case X.--Two of the principal Jews of the +town giving themselves up, and having no hope, +were willing to employ the remainder of their +lives in affording assistance to the dying and +the dead, by washing the bodies and interring +them; this business they performed during +thirty or forty days, during all which time they +were not attacked: when the plague had nearly +subsided, and they began again to cherish hopes +of surviving the calamity, they were both smitten, +but after a few days' illness recovered, and are +now living.</p> + +<p>From this last case, as well as from many +others similar, but too numerous here to recapitulate, +it appears that the human constitution +requires a certain miasma, to prepare it to receive +the pestilential infection.</p> + +<p><i>General Observation.</i>--When the carbuncles +or buboes appeared to have a blackish rim round +<a name="p186" id="p186"></a><span class="pagenum">[186]</span> +their base, the case of that patient was desperate, +and invariably fatal. Sometimes the whole +body was covered with black spots like partridge-shot; +such patients always fell victims to the +disorder, and those who felt the blow internally, +showing no external disfiguration, seldom +survived more than a few hours.</p> + +<p>The plague appears to visit this country about +once in every twenty years<a id="footnotetag139" name="footnotetag139"></a> +<a href="#footnote139"><sup class="sml">139</sup></a>: the last visitation +was in 1799 and 1800, being more fatal than +any ever before known.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote139" +name="footnote139"></a><b>Footnote 139:</b><a href="#footnotetag139"> +(return) </a> This opinion is confirmed by the plague, being now +(1820) in Marocco just twenty years since the last plague. +65,000 persons have been lately carried off by this disease in +the cities of Old and New Fas.</blockquote> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p><i>Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last +Year in West Barbary, and which was imported from +Egypt; communicated by the Author to the Editor of +the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the +Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, +No, 15, published in October, 1819.</i></p> + +<p>His Majesty's ship, which was lying in the +port of Alexandria, when Colonel Fitzclarence +passed through Egypt, from India, on his way +to England, convoyed to Tangier a vessel which +had on board two of the sons of Muley Soliman, +emperor of Marocco; on their arrival at Tangier, +the princes immediately landed and proceeded +to their father at Fas; but it was discovered +by the governor or alkaid of Tangier, that +during the passage some persons had died; and +<a name="p187" id="p187"></a><span class="pagenum">[187]</span> +accordingly the alkaid would not suffer any of +the passengers to land, except the princes, until +he should have received orders from the Emperor +how to act; he accordingly wrote to Fas, +for the imperial orders, and in the mean time +the princes arrived, and presented themselves +to the emperor: the latter wrote to the alkaid, +that as the princes had been suffered to land, +it would be unjust to prohibit the other passengers +from coming ashore also. He therefore +ordered the alkaid to suffer all the passengers, +together with their baggage, to be landed, and +soon afterwards the plague appeared at Fas, and +at Tangier. Thus the contagion which is now +ravaging West Barbary was imported from +Egypt. It does not appear that the mortality +is, or has been, during its acme at Fas, any +thing comparable to what it was during the +plague that ravaged this country in 1799,<a id="footnotetag140" name="footnotetag140"></a> +<a href="#footnote140"><sup class="sml">140</sup></a> and +which carried off more than two-thirds of the +population of the empire.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote140" +name="footnote140"></a><b>Footnote 140:</b><a href="#footnotetag140"> +(return) </a> It has been asserted by a physician who has lately written, +<i>Observations on contagion, as it relates to the plague and +other epidemical diseases</i>, reviewed in article 20th of the <i>British +Review</i>, and <i>London Critical Journal</i>, published in May +last, that I have asserted that the deaths during the prevalence +of that disorder in West Barbary in 1799, amounted +to 124,500; but on a reference to my account of Marocco, +Timbuctoo, &c., 2d or 3d edition, note, page 174, it will +appear, that this mortality was that of two cities, and two +sea-ports only, viz., the cities of Fas and Marocco, and the +ports of Saffy and Mogodor; the mortality, however, was +equally great in the imperial cities of Mequinas and Terodant, +and in the sea-port towns of Tetuan, Tangier, Arzilla, +L'Araich, Salee, Rabat, Dar el Bieda, Azamore, Mazagan, +and Santa Cruz, or Agadeer; and considerably greater +among the populous and numerous encampments of the +Arabs, throughout the various provinces of the empire; not +to mention the incredible mortality in the castles, towns, and +other walled habitations of the Shelluh province of Haha, +the first province, travelling from the shores of the Mediterranean, +where the people live in walled habitations, the seaports +excepted.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p188" id="p188"></a><span class="pagenum">[188]</span></p> + +<p>Whence proceeds this difference? Is it a +different species of plague, and not so deadly a +contagion? Or is it because the remedy of +<i>olive</i> oil, applied and recommended generally +by me, and by some other Europeans during the +plague of 1799, is now made public and generally +administered? This is an inquiry well deserving +the attention of scientific men. And +His Majesty's ministers might procure the information +from the British consul at Tangier, +or from the governor of Gibraltar: perhaps the +truth is, that the contagion is of a more mild +character.</p> + +<p>With regard to the remedy of olive oil applied<a id="footnotetag141" name="footnotetag141"></a> +<a href="#footnote141"><sup class="sml">141</sup></a> +internally, I should, myself, be disposed +to doubt its efficacy unless M. Colaço, the +<a name="p189" id="p189"></a><span class="pagenum">[189]</span> +Portuguese consul at L'Araich, is competent +to declare, <i>from his own knowledge and experience</i>, +that this remedy has been administered +effectually by him to persons having the plague, +who did not <i>also use the friction with oil</i>. +I say, till this can be ascertained, I think the +remedy of oil applied <i>externally</i>, should not be +forsaken; as <i>it has been proved during the plague +in Africa, in 1799, to be infallible</i>, and therefore +indispensable to people whose vocation may lead +them to associate with, or to touch or bury the +infected. For the rest, such persons as are +not compelled to associate with the infected, +may effectually avoid the contagion, however +violent and deadly it may be, by avoiding contact. +I am so perfectly convinced of this fact, +from the experience and observation I have +made during my residence at Mogodor, whilst +the plague raged there in 1799, that I would not +object to go to any country, although it were +rotten with the plague, provided my going would +benefit mankind, or serve any useful +purpose; and I would use no fumigation, or +any other remedy but what I actually used +at Mogodor in 1799. I am so convinced +from my own repeated and daily experience, +that the most deadly plague is as easy to +he avoided <span class="sc">by strictly adhering to the +principle of avoiding personal contact and +inhalation, and the contact of infectious +substances</span>, that I would ride or walk through +the most populous and deeply-infected city, as +<a name="p190" id="p190"></a><span class="pagenum">[190]</span> +I have done before, without any other precaution +than that of a segar in my mouth, when, by +avoiding contact and inhalation, I should most +assuredly be free from the danger of infection!!</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote141" +name="footnote141"></a><b>Footnote 141:</b><a href="#footnotetag141"> +(return) </a> Mr. Colaço, having lately observed that oil was used externally +to anoint the body, as a preservative against the +plague; conceived the idea of administering this simple +remedy <i>internally</i> to persons already infected; numerous +experiments were made by this gentleman, who administered +from four to eight oz. olive oil at a dose; and out of 300 +individuals already infected, who resorted to this remedy, +only twelve died.</blockquote> + +<p>When these precautions are strictly observed, +I maintain, (in opposition to all the theoretical +dogmas that have lately been propagated) that +there is no more danger of infection with the +plague, than there is of infection from any +common cold or rheum.</p> + +<p><a name="p191" id="p191"></a><span class="pagenum">[191]</span></p> +<br><br> + + +<h2>JOURNEY FROM TANGIER TO RABAT</h2> + +<h3><i>THROUGH THE PLAINS OF SEBOO</i>,</h3> + +<p class="mid">To accompany Dr. Bell, in Company with the Prince Muley<br> +Teib and an Army of Cavalry.</p> + +<p><i>Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and +Dr. Bell.--Description of Food sent to us by the +Prince.--The Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, an +incomparable fine and productive Country.--The +Cavalry of the Amorites,--their unique Observations +on Dr. Bell.--their mean Opinion of his Art, because +he could not cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo +on Rafts of inflated Skins.--Spacious Tent of Goat's +Hair erected for the Sheik, and appropriated to the +Use of the Prince.--Description of the magnificent +Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian +Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these +Plains.--Matamores, what they are.--Mode of Reaping.--The +Prince presents the Doctor with a Horse, +and approves of his Medicines.--The Prince and the +Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and the Author pursues +his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor.</i></p> + +<p>I happened to be at Tangier when the (<i>shereef</i>) +prince Muley Teib was collecting an army to +join that of the emperor, which was on the +banks of the river Morbeya, (see the map of +West Barbary, p. 55,) in Shawiya. Doctor +Bell, who had then recently arrived from +Gibraltar, to attend the prince, whose lungs +were affected, was to accompany his Royal +Highness; and, as I had nothing to detain me +<a name="p192" id="p192"></a><span class="pagenum">[192]</span> +in Tangier, and was going to Rabat, I engaged +to accompany the doctor, and offered to officiate +as interpreter between him and the prince till +our arrival at Rabat; after which I should leave +him, and proceed to Mogodor. The Doctor +readily assented to my proposition, because it +is considered more respectable in this country, +where the Jews are reprobated and despised, +to have for an interpreter a Christian; the +prince also, when he heard that I had thus +offered my services, expressed himself much +gratified, and I received a very polite message +from him. The next day we started from Tangier, +in the morning at ten o'clock. The army +halted east of Arzilla, in the plains: the prince +sat down under the shade of a tree to dinner, +Dr. Bell and myself under another tree, about +100 yards distant. The Prince sent us a capon +stewed <i>à-la-mauresque</i> with saffron, the exquisite +flavour of which proved that he had an excellent +cook with him. We departed in half an hour; +and the tents were pitched at sunset, in a campaign +country, between Arzilla and L'Araich. +The Ait-Amor or Amorites who formed a part of +this army, a wild, uncontrolled race of Berebbers, +saw the attention that was paid by the shereef to +the doctor, and after dinner they were determined +to see what sort of a fellow this doctor was, +whom the shereef treated so familiarly. They +galloped their high-mettled horses up to the +doctor; and stopping short to examine him, +made a reflection on him and returned. The +<a name="p193" id="p193"></a><span class="pagenum">[193]</span> +doctor observed the wild and tattered appearance +of these excellent horsemen. There was +nothing evil-minded in them; but their observations +were remarkable. The Doctor wore +powder, a custom unknown in this country: one +party would say, "He has got lime in his head to +kill the vermin;" another would observe that "He +was old or grey-headed." The Doctor was fond +of his bottle, and some said <i>skurren bel akkaran</i>, +i.e. "The<a id="footnotetag142" name="footnotetag142"></a> +<a href="#footnote142"><sup class="sml">142</sup></a> son of a cuckold is drunk." Others +would bawl out, <i>Wa Tebeeb washka't dowie elmoot</i>, +i.e. "O, doctor, canst thou cure death?" To +which he replied, "No."--"Then," returned +they, "thou art no doctor!" On the following +morning at sun-rise we proceeded, and reached +L'Araich at twelve o'clock; we did not enter the +town, but dined in the plains, and proceeding +afterwards out of the main road, we directed our +course south-east, till we reached a most beautiful +and very extensive plain, called M'sharrah Rummellah. +This plain was covered with numerous +and immense flocks of sheep and horned cattle, +and is many times more extensive than Salisbury +plain. We pitched our tents near a very +extensive and populous douar of Arabs. We departed +the next morning at sun-rise, and reached +the plains of the river Seboo about two o'clock +in the afternoon; which plains are a continuation +of those of M'sharrah Rummellah; the +<a name="p194" id="p194"></a><span class="pagenum">[194]</span> +army were engaged the remaining part of the +day and the whole night crossing the river +Seboo, on rafts made of inflated cow-hides, +covered with planks and straw. The river +is here about twenty yards wide, but very +deep and rapid; the Arabs had a long and +spacious sheik's tent pitched for the reception +of the prince, about forty feet long and fifteen +wide, somewhat similar to the hull of a ship +reversed, having the long side open to the sun. +These tents are the palace of the sheik of the +Arabs, and are erected on great occasions only, +such as that of the emperor, or a prince passing +through their territory. The plains of M'sharrah +Rummellah are one hundred and fifty British +miles in circumference, perfectly flat, without +a stone, a tree, a hedge, or a ditch; with the +majestic river Seboo passing through the centre +of the plain. The soil of this territory, which, +in the hands of Europeans, might be made a +terrestrial paradise, is a rich, productive, decomposed +vegetable earth, which extends, as we +perceived from various chasms, to the depth of +several feet from the surface. It produces incredible +quantities of the finest wheat, of a hard +grain, very large and long, clear as amber, +and yielding a prodigious increase of flour, so +that a saa of wheat<a id="footnotetag143" name="footnotetag143"></a> +<a href="#footnote143"><sup class="sml">143</sup></a> produces a saa and a sixth +of flour. The prince, Muley Teeb, seated on +<a name="p195" id="p195"></a><span class="pagenum">[195]</span> +an eminence in this spacious tent, resembled +what we should imagine the patriarch Abraham +to have been, entertaining his friends; or Saul +upon his throne, with his javelin in his hand. +He had twelve lanciers, six on each side of him +in a row, standing with their lances erect, the +Prince having one in his hand. It appears that +this is the Arabian etiquette; and the Arabs appeared +much gratified that the prince had personified +their sheik, with all the paraphernalia +of royalty. His Royal Highness whose mind +seemed moved with the beauty of this country, +sent for the Doctor and myself, and asked us +if we had ever seen such a country before. We +frankly confessed we had not. The prince smiled, +and said, that the (<i>sehell</i>) plain we were on, +although extremely populous, and full of douars, +could grow seventeen times as much corn as the +inhabitants could consume; that there was then +corn enough in the matamores<a id="footnotetag144" name="footnotetag144"></a> +<a href="#footnote144"><sup class="sml">144</sup></a> of this plain, to +supply (<i>El garb kamel</i>) the whole of El garb, +i.e. the country north of the river Morbeya.<a id="footnotetag145" name="footnotetag145"></a> +<a href="#footnote145"><sup class="sml">145</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote142" +name="footnote142"></a><b>Footnote 142:</b><a href="#footnotetag142"> +(return) </a> Intoxication is a damnable vice with these people; and +when they remark drunkenness, they invariably add an opprobrium +to the observation.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote143" +name="footnote143"></a><b>Footnote 143:</b><a href="#footnotetag143"> +(return) </a> A saa of wheat is little less than two Winchester bushels. +The wheat is very heavy, and this measure weighs 100 lb., +equal to 119 lb. English.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote144" +name="footnote144"></a><b>Footnote 144:</b><a href="#footnotetag144"> +(return) </a> The matamores are subterraneous depositories for corn, +in which they preserve the wheat sound and good thirty +years; but when a matamore is once opened, it is expedient +to consume the corn immediately, otherwise it contracts +what is called the matamore twang. These depositories are +indispensable in countries exposed to drought, scarcity, or +locusts, and <i>should be adopted in our colony of South +Africa</i>. The art of constructing them is very peculiar, and +I devoted some time in learning it.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote145" +name="footnote145"></a><b>Footnote 145:</b><a href="#footnotetag145"> +(return) </a> See the map of West Barbary.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p196" id="p196"></a><span class="pagenum">[196]</span></p> + +<p>We took our leave of the Prince, who appeared +much gratified with the hospitable entertainment +of the Arabs, and with their patriarchal +style of living, and sent us an enormous dish of +cuscasoe, coloured with saffron.</p> + +<p>Encamped in the centre of this plain, when +the sun had set, and the twilight came on, we +could have imagined ourselves in the midst of +the ocean. Not a cloud was in the sky, nor a +hill on the land, to intercept the uniformity of +the horizon; the moon shone so bright, that +we could read by its light, and the universal +novelty of the scene resembled enchantment.</p> + +<p>On this rich land they use no dung: they +reap the corn about a foot from the ground, and +burn the stubble. The produce is greater +even than that of the <i>new-dyke land</i>, on +the banks of the river Ems, in North Holland. +The allotments of land are ascertained by a +large stone, placed at each corner of the square, +when the reapers reach these stones, they desist +from proceeding or reaping the corn of other +proprietors. We rose early in the morning, +and found the air of this terrestrial paradise +strongly perfumed with millions of odoriferous +flowers, that were growing spontaneously throughout +the plains. Walking with Dr. Bell through +the Prince's camp, we saw a beautiful grey +horse. The doctor admired it. I recommended +him to ask the Prince for it, he was not acquainted +with the customs of this country, and +ridiculed my observation. "If you wish to have +<a name="p197" id="p197"></a><span class="pagenum">[197]</span> +that horse, Doctor," said I, "I will engage that +the Prince will get it for you. I represented immediately +to His Royal Highness, that the +Doctor had taken a liking to the horse, and +would wish to buy it. Not buy it," said the +Prince; "he will receive it as a present from me. +Tell him, he deserves seven horses for the benefit +he has done me: all doctors that I have heretofore +had have taken twenty-four hours to +give me ease; he relieves me in one. Tell him so," +said the prince, "and that he (<i>massab ala genibuna</i>) +is in the number of my dearest friends. +(<i>e jeek elkhere attibib u asselem</i>), Good be +with you, doctor, and peace be with you." Thus +ended the negociation for the horse. I found +afterwards that it belonged to a sheik of the +Arab province of Beni Hassen, who regretted +parting with it, but the Prince gave him +the value of it, and much courtesy withal. We +struck our tents next morning at eleven o'clock, +and, travelling southward, the Prince received +an express from the Emperor to join his imperial +army forthwith: accordingly the Prince and his +doctor departed south-east, and I took leave of +them, and pursued my journey to Rabat. +p. 198</p> +<p><a name="p198" id="p198"></a><span class="pagenum">[198]</span></p> +<br><br> + + +<h4>OF</h4> + +<h2>THE EXCAVATED RESIDENCES</h2> + +<h4>OF THE</h4> + +<h3>INHABITANTS OF ATLAS:</h3> + +<h4>THE</h4> + +<h3><i>ACEPHALI, HEL SHUAL, AND HEL ELKILLEB:</i></h3> + +<p><i>The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present +System of solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, +with a numerous Company; beginning with Commerce, +as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the Fore-runner +of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indispensable +to the Conversion of the native Negroes to Christianity.</i></p> + +<p>The inhabitants of the snowy or upper regions +of the Atlas live, during the months of +November, December, January, February, and +half of March, in caves or excavations in the +mountains; the snow then disappears, and they +begin to cultivate the earth.</p> + +<p>I have repeatedly heard reports of the (<i>Helel +Killeb</i>,<a id="footnotetag146" name="footnotetag146"></a> +<a href="#footnote146"><sup class="sml">146</sup></a>) dog-faced race; of the (<i>Hel Shual</i>,) +tailed race; and of the race having one eye,<a id="footnotetag147" name="footnotetag147"></a> +<a href="#footnote147"><sup class="sml">147</sup></a> +<a name="p199" id="p199"></a><span class="pagenum">[199]</span> +and that in the breast. It is extremely difficult +to ascertain the origin of these reports, which are +so involved in metaphor that the signification is +not intelligible to Europeans; their existence is not +doubted, however, in Africa. Of the <i>Hel El Killeb</i> +some ignorant people affirm that the Almighty +transformed one of the tribes of the Jews into +these people, and that these are their descendants; +others report them to be a mongrel breed, +between the human and ape species; their +strength is said to be very great. The Africans +assert with considerable confidence, which is +corroborated, that the Hel Shual have a tail +half a cubit long; that they inhabit a district +in the Desert at an immense distance south-east +of Marocco; that the Hel El Killeb<a id="footnotetag148" name="footnotetag148"></a> +<a href="#footnote148"><sup class="sml">148</sup></a> are in a +similar direction; that the latter are diminutive, +<a name="p200" id="p200"></a><span class="pagenum">[200]</span> +being about two or three cubits<a id="footnotetag149" name="footnotetag149"></a> +<a href="#footnote149"><sup class="sml">149</sup></a> in height; that +they exclaim <i>bak, bak, bak</i>, and that they have +a few articulate sounds, which they mutually +understand among themselves; that they are extremely +swift of foot, and run as fast as horses. +The Arimaspi of Herodotus are called by the +Arabs <i>Hel Ferdie</i>, these are represented by the +Arabs of the Desert as living at the foot of the +lofty mountains of the Moon, near Abyssinia: +the male and female are equally without hair on +their head, having large chins and nostrils, like +the ape species; they are said to have a language +of their own; their costume is a <i>jelabea</i>,<a id="footnotetag150" name="footnotetag150"></a> +<a href="#footnote150"><sup class="sml">150</sup></a> +and a belt, without shoes or head dress; +their country is said to abound in gold. It is +"a consummation devoutly to be wished," that +our knowledge of Africa should increase so as +to enable us to unravel the mystery of these +doubtful reports, to ascertain the degree of credit +that is due to these mysterious traditions. +These desiderata, however, can hardly be expected, +whilst the present injudicious plans for +<a name="p201" id="p201"></a><span class="pagenum">[201]</span> +the discovery of Africa are persevered in. We +must, if we desire to discover effectually the hidden +recesses and reported wonders of this continent, +adopt plans and schemes very different +from any that have hitherto been suggested; +we must adopt <i>a grand system upon an extensive +scale</i>, a system directed and moved by +a person competent to so great an undertaking. +The head or director of such an +expedition should be master of the general travelling +and trafficking language of Africa, the +modern Arabic: he should moreover be acquainted +with the character of the people, +their habits, modes of life, religious prejudices, +and fanaticism. A grand plan, thus directed, +could hardly fail to secure the command of the +commerce of Africa to Great Britain. Then +the discovery of the inmost recesses would follow +the path of commerce, and that continent, +which has baffled the researches of the moderns +as well as of the ancients, would lay open its +treasures to modern Europe, and civilisation +would be the natural result. Then would be the +period to attempt the conversion of the Negroes +to Christianity; and the standard of peace and +good will towards men might be successfully +planted on the banks of the <i>Nile El Kabeer</i>, or +<i>Nile Assudan</i>, the Great Nile, or Nile of Sudan, +or Nigritia, commonly called the Niger.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote146" +name="footnote146"></a><b>Footnote 146:</b><a href="#footnotetag146"> +(return) </a> Apollonius Rhodius calls these people [Greek: ημικυγες êmikuges] or half-dogs.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote147" +name="footnote147"></a><b>Footnote 147:</b><a href="#footnotetag147"> +(return) </a> The ingenious author of Philosophic Researches concerning +the Americans, speaking of a race which appear to +resemble the Acephali of Herodotus, or the race of men +having one eye, and that in their chest, says, "There is in +Canibar a race of savages who have hardly any neck, and +whose shoulders reach up to their ears. This monstrous appearance +is artificial, and to give it to their children they put +enormous weights upon their heads, so as to make the vertebræ +of the neck enter, if we may so say, the channel bone, +(clavicule.) These barbarians, from a distance, seem to +have their mouth in the breast; and might well enough, in +ignorant and enthusiastic travellers, serve to revive the fable +of the Acephali, or men without heads." (See Larcher's +Notes on Herodotus's Melpomene, cap. 191.)--Saint Augustin, +whose veracity is scarcely to be doubted, declared in +his thirty-third sermon, intituled <i>"A ses Frères dans le Désert"--Avoir +vu en Ethiopie des hommes et des femmes sans +tête avec des grands yeux sur le poitrine.</i></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote148" +name="footnote148"></a><b>Footnote 148:</b><a href="#footnotetag148"> +(return) </a> We have heard of a pig-faced lady; if there is such a +person, there might also be a pig-faced gentleman, and these +might generate a pig-faced race; and if a pig-faced race, +why not a dog-faced race?</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote149" +name="footnote149"></a><b>Footnote 149:</b><a href="#footnotetag149"> +(return) </a> Seven Cubits make four English yards.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote150" +name="footnote150"></a><b>Footnote 150:</b><a href="#footnotetag150"> +(return) </a> The best description I can give of a <i>jelabea</i> is this: Take +a large sack and cut a hole in the bottom, big enough to admit +the head; then cut the two bottom corners off to admit +the arms: this garment will then resemble the <i>jelabea</i>.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p202" id="p202"></a><span class="pagenum">[202]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h2>CAUTIONS</h2> + +<h3>TO BE USED IN TRAVELLING.</h3> + +<p><i>Danger of travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds +himself accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, +whilst travelling between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration +of Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of living +among the Arabs; Food, Clothing, domestic Looms, +and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs calculated by +the Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women +are good Figures, and have personal Beauty; delicate +in their Food; poetical Geniuses; Dancing and Amusements; +Musical Instruments; their Manners are courteous</i>.</p> + +<p>Travellers in West and South Barbary should +never be out after sun-set: it is not safe to travel +in many parts of the country during the night. +The emperor holds himself accountable for +thefts committed between the rising and the setting +sun; so that, if a traveller be robbed of property, +the value should be ascertained, and an +application being made to the bashaw of the +province where the robbery was committed it +will be restored forthwith; but if there be any +demur, an application should be made to the +Emperor, personally, if possible, but if not, by +letter; and the district is immediately ordered to +pay double the loss, one half to the person robbed, +and the other half to the Imperial treasury. +<a name="p203" id="p203"></a><span class="pagenum">[203]</span> +These robberies, however, rarely occur; for the +bashaws of the provinces and the alkaids of +the douars feel it a duty incumbent on them to +protect all travellers and strangers; so that they +would, in the event of a robbery being committed, +expose themselves to a severe reprimand +from the emperor, and an intimation that they +were, by suffering such irregularity, incompetent +to their situation, and would be liable to a +heavy fine, or a discharge from their office, for +<i>neglect of vigilance</i>, which, in this country, is considered +<i>very reprehensible</i>.</p> + +<p>Travelling through the province of Suse, +I once witnessed the emigration of an extensive +douar of Arabs, amounting to about 200 families. +They were just leaving their habitation, +where they had been encamped only a few +months: it was a fine grazing country; the +camels, horses, mules, asses, oxen and cows, +were all laden with the tents and baggage of +these wanderers. On enquiring the cause of +this emigration, I was told that the inhabitants +were infested with musquitoes and fleas to +such a degree, that they had all unanimously resolved +to emigrate to another place, which they +had fixed upon, and that they would reach it by +night. These wandering Arabs, without any +fixed habitation, are of a restless, ungovernable +spirit: they never cultivate the earth, as do the +Arabs of the plains of Marocco, but live, for +the most part, on camels' milk, occasionally +killing a camel or a goat for food; grazing their +<a name="p204" id="p204"></a><span class="pagenum">[204]</span> +camels in the adjacent country: they live in the +true Patriarchal style, and seek the means of +supplying all their wants within themselves. To +effect this purpose, they barter a few of their +camels for wool, and thus supply themselves +with that article for clothing, which is made in +every (<i>keyma</i>) Arab tent, by the women, at +their own respective looms; each female being +the manufacturer for her own family. The +cloth is wove in pieces of seven cubits long and +about two and a half broad, of the natural colour +of the wool: these pieces of cloth are afterwards +converted into cloaks, mantles, and tunics. +Those who choose to indulge in the luxury +of dress, by wearing linen, or turbans, send +a few goat-skins, collected from the goats that +have served them occasionally for food, to Mogodor, +or Marocco, or barter them with some +Jews for linen or shoes, and thus supply all their +wants; so that their resources considerably exceed +their wants, for some of them have several +thousand camels which cost them nothing. +These animals browse on the bushes in the environs +of their habitations, and are continually +increasing and multiplying. They never kill +any animal for food until full grown: this custom, +from which the Arab never departs, is manifestly +calculated to increase property, which, +being invested in camels, is transportable, without +trouble or expense, wherever they choose.</p> + +<p>The Arabs are gay and cheerful; the brow of +care is rarely seen among them. The more children +<a name="p205" id="p205"></a><span class="pagenum">[205]</span> +they have, the greater the blessing. They +turn their hands in early youth to some useful +purpose: so soon as they can walk they attend +the camels, or are put to some domestic occupation; +thus forming a useful link in the chain of +their patriarchal society. The independence +of these Arabs is depicted in their physiognomy; +they are oppressed by no cankering +care, no anxiety, no anticipation of distress. +The food and clothing of the Arab is always at +hand; fuel is not required in this warm country; +and a glass of cool water is all that is desired to +allay the thirst. This simple and abstemious +mode of living is congenial to the human constitution; +accordingly they enjoy uninterrupted +health: sickness is so uncommon with them +that to be old and to be sick are synonymous +terms. They think one cannot happen without +the other. Some of the women of these people, +whilst young, are extremely delicate, handsome, +and have elegant figures. They account +it gross to swallow food, that would, they say, +fatten them like their Moorish neighbours; they +therefore masticate it only. Their physiognomy +is very interesting and animated; their +features are regular; large black expressive +eyes; a ready wit, poetic fancy, expressing +themselves in poetic effusions, in which, from +constant habit, some of them have become such +adepts, that they with facility speak extempore +poetry; those who are unable to converse +<a name="p206" id="p206"></a><span class="pagenum">[206]</span> +in this manner are less esteemed. Their +evening amusements consist in dancing and +music, vocal and instrumental. Generally, +throughout all the Arab provinces, but particularly +in Suse, among the Mograffra Arabs, the +Woled Abbusebah, and Woled Deleim, the whole +country is in a blaze of light of a summer's +evening; music, dancing, and rejoicing, is heard +in every direction. Their music consists of a +kettle-drum, a flute or reed, similar to what Homer +describes as the instrument of the ancient +shepherds, a rhabeb or two-stringed fiddle, +played with a semicircular bow, a tamboureen, +and brass castanets. They play in precise +time; and the ladies arrange themselves at the +entrance of the sheik's tent. It is pleasant to +observe the beauty of their fine-formed feet, uninjured +by tight shoes, and free from corns and +all excrescences. They dance some dances barefooted, +making very short steps, scarcely raising +the foot from the ground, in a peculiar manner. +They have elegant and circular ankles; and their +light motions fascinate the eyes of the spectators +and the admiring strangers, who occasionally +exclaim, (<i>Allah éhrduh alikume ia Elarb</i>) "the +protection of God be upon you, O Arabs!" (<i>makine +fal Elarb</i>,) "there are none comparable +to the Arabs!" They have a very elegant shawl-dance: +in the management of the shawl they +display singular grace, and practise elegant +figures, sometimes concealing their faces, sometimes +<a name="p207" id="p207"></a><span class="pagenum">[207]</span> +showing their brilliant eyes through an +opening in the shawl. The manners of these +ladies is courteous, but chaste; perfectly modest, +but without reserve; and the other sex pay them +courteous attention.</p><br><br> + +<p><a name="p208" id="p208"></a><span class="pagenum">[208]</span></p> + +<h2>ABUNDANCE OF CORN</h2> + +<h4>PRODUCED IN</h4> + +<h3>WEST BARBARY.</h3> + +<p><i>Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw +of Duquella's weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes +or Subterraneous Depositories for Corn</i>.</p> + +<p>The empire of Marocco, west of the Atlas, during +the reign of Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, +father of the present Emperor Soliman, was one +continued corn-field. At that time the exportation +was free to all parts of the world. It is impossible +to conceive the abundance produced in +this prolific land, none but those who have actually +seen the standing corn in the ear, and +have seen it reaped, can form any correct idea +of its prodigious increase. The plains of Rahamena, +of Shawiya, of Temsena, of Abda, and +Duquella, those immense plains of M'sharrah +Rummellah, of Ait-Amor, and many others, form +each, separately, extensive fields of corn, farther +than the eye can reach. To give an idea of the +quantity produced in the plains near Dar El +Beida, it will be sufficient to say, that 250 sail +of ships, from 150 to 700 tons, were loaded at +that port in one year of Seedy Muhamed's reign. +At the other ports on the shores of the Atlantic, +viz. at Arzilla, L'Araich, Meheduma, Rabat, +<a name="p209" id="p209"></a><span class="pagenum">[209]</span> +Azamor, Mazagan, Saffy, and Mogodor, were +shipped a quantity, almost equal in proportion +to what was shipped at Dar-El-Beida, so that +the duties at one dollar per fanegue, of 80 lb. +weight on the exportation of wheat, barley, +Indian corn, caravances, beans, and seeds, in +one year, according to the imperial registers, +amounted to 5,257,320 Mexico dollars.<a id="footnotetag151" name="footnotetag151"></a> +<a href="#footnote151"><sup class="sml">151</sup></a> Besides +which, presents to an incalculable amount +were made from time to time by Spain and Portugal, +particularly by the former, to keep the +Emperor in good humour, and to prevent him +from prohibiting the exportation of grain, of which +however there was little chance, as his Imperial +Majesty was always diligent in the accumulation +of treasure, and let no opportunity pass of encouraging +the agriculture of his dominions. This +system gave general occupation to the Arabs, or +agriculturists, and enriched them so universally, +that the diffusion of wealth among them, +produced other incalculable sources of revenue, +insomuch that it was customary for Muhamed +Ben Amaran, Bashaw of Duquella, to present +to the Emperor at Marocco, every Friday, (the +Muhamedan sabbath), as he returned home from +the mosque, a massive bar of pure gold of Timbuctoo, +valued at some thousand dollars; which +<a name="p210" id="p210"></a><span class="pagenum">[210]</span> +was considered as the fee by which he held his +bashawick. The Arabs who are the agriculturists +of the before-mentioned plains, besides +the corn exported, lay up immense quantities in +subterraneous caverns, constructed by a curious +process, well deserving the attention of the colonists +of South Africa; these repositories are +called mitferes<a id="footnotetag152" name="footnotetag152"></a> +<a href="#footnote152"><sup class="sml">152</sup></a>, they are constructed in a conical +form, and will contain from 200 to 2000 +quarters of corn.<a id="footnotetag153" name="footnotetag153"></a> +<a href="#footnote153"><sup class="sml">153</sup></a> It is expedient, in their construction, +to exclude the atmospheric air; and +the soil, in which they are constructed, should +be essentially conservative, the air being never +changed, is constantly of the same temperature, +very dry, and not subject to the variations of +humidity, which affect the external air: this, +with other necessary precautions being observed, +they will preserve the corn twenty or thirty +years perfectly sound. In countries, (like that +of the Cape of Good Hope,) subject to drought, +inundations, or locusts, these mitferes, or catacombs +are indispensable, as they preserve corn as a +reserve stock, in the event of scarcity, or famine, +produced by any of the before mentioned calamities, +or providential visitations. It is more +<a name="p211" id="p211"></a><span class="pagenum">[211]</span> +than probable that this singular art of constructing +mitferes, was derived in ancient times from +the catacombs of Egypt, and that Joseph might +have preserved Pharaoh's corn<a id="footnotetag154" name="footnotetag154"></a> +<a href="#footnote154"><sup class="sml">154</sup></a> upwards of seven +years, in similar magazines. The Emperor Seedi +Muhamed, who possessed considerable talent, +and had a perfect knowledge of the disposition +and character of his subjects, used to say in the +(<i>em'shoer</i>,) place of audience, before all the people, +in the latter part of his reign:--"You complain +of my decrees; but when I am departed +from this world, you shall seek for one day +of Seedi Muhamed's reign, but you shall not +find it." This prediction has been literally verified +throughout the respective reigns of his sons +Muley Yezzed, and Muley El Hesham, and even +his son the present Emperor has often manifested +an anti-commercial system, and has accordingly +(probably by the advice of the Fakeers belonging +to the divan) prohibited the exportation of most +articles of clothing, and provision, such as wool, +Fas manufactures, corn, olive oil, raisins, &c.<a id="footnotetag155" name="footnotetag155"></a> +<a href="#footnote155"><sup class="sml">155</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote151" +name="footnote151"></a><b>Footnote 151:</b><a href="#footnotetag151"> +(return) </a> Barley and wheat imported from different ports of England +and from the Continent into London (which is more +than is imported into Great Britain) in 1818, was 6,179,330 +quintals or saas of Barbary, which are equal to 7,415,390 +fanegues $.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote152" +name="footnote152"></a><b>Footnote 152:</b><a href="#footnotetag152"> +(return) </a> Genesis, xli. 9.--"And Joseph gathered corn as the +sand of the sea very much."</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote153" +name="footnote153"></a><b>Footnote 153:</b><a href="#footnotetag153"> +(return) </a> I descended into a mitfere in the Arab province of Duquella, +and remained there whilst the Arab explained to me +the mode of constructing them; this was near the douar of +Woled Aisah (see the map): it had just been emptied, and +produced 3450 saas or quintals.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote154" +name="footnote154"></a><b>Footnote 154:</b><a href="#footnotetag154"> +(return) </a> Genesis, xli. 48.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote155" +name="footnote155"></a><b>Footnote 155:</b><a href="#footnotetag155"> +(return) </a> The result of this anti-commercial system is, that corn is +dearer than it was during the exportation. Many millions of +acres of the finest and most productive land lies fallow for +want of a market for its produce; indeed, the produce has +sometimes been so low for want of a market, that I +have known instances of the corn having been left standing, +not being worth the expense of reaping. Now this +prohibition undoubtedly will appear to many intelligent +readers bad policy in his Imperial Majesty, but it is nevertheless +consistent policy. The <i>sine qua non</i> of the court +of Marocco is to keep the inhabitants poor. It is asserted +by the political economists of this country, that +the Arab should not have more than sufficient to feed +and clothe him; every thing beyond this turns to evil, +and is an incentive to rebellion: the superflux, they maintain, +should go to (<i>Beit el melh d'el muselmen</i>,) the Muselman +treasury.</blockquote> + +<p>A wine company, consisting of gentlemen +of practical experience in that branch of business, +might form a most beneficial establishment at +<a name="p212" id="p212"></a><span class="pagenum">[212]</span> +Santa Cruz, whither the grapes of Edautenan +are brought to market, and other grapes from +the Arab countries, of exquisite quality and flavour, +infinitely superior in richness, size, and +flavour to those of Spain and Portugal, or any +part of Italy; indeed, I have no hesitation in declaring, +(without fear of contradiction,) that this +country produces the finest grapes, oranges, +and pomegranates in the world, and in the greatest +abundance. I have myself tasted at Marocco, +at a Hebrew Rabbi's table, excellent imitations +of burgundy, claret, champagne, madeira, +and rhenish, or old hock, all the produce of +grapes reared in the plains of that city, and in +the adjacent mountains. The port of Santa Cruz, +if purchased of the Emperor by the English, +would, besides securing the trade to Sudan, and +the interior of Africa, supply the London market +with abundance of all these excellent wines.</p> + +<p><a name="p213" id="p213"></a><span class="pagenum">[213]</span></p> +<br> + +<h3>DOMESTIC SERPENTS OF MAROCCO.</h3> + +<p>Every house in Marocco has, or ought to have, +a domestic serpent: I say ought to have, because +those that have not one, seek to have this inmate, +by treating it hospitably whenever one appears; +they leave out food for it to eat during +the night, which gradually domiciliates this reptile. +These serpents are reported to be extremely +sagacious, and very susceptible. The superstition +of these people is extraordinary; for rather than +offend these serpents, they will suffer their women +to be exposed during sleep to their performing +the office of an infant. They are considered, in a +house, emblematical of good, or prosperity, as +their absence is ominous of evil. They are not +often visible; but I have seen them passing over +the beams of the roof of the apartments. A +friend of mine was just retired to bed at Marocco, +when he heard a noise in the room, like something +crawling over his head, he arose, looked +about the room, and discovered one of these +reptiles about four feet long, of a dark colour, he +pricked it with his sword, and killed it, then returned +to bed. In the morning he called to him +the master of the house where he was a guest, and +telling him he had attacked the serpent, the Jew +was chagrined, and expostulated with him, for +the injury he had done him: apprehensive that +evil would visit him, he intimated to his guest, +that he hoped he would leave his house, as he +feared the malignity of the serpent; and he was +not reconciled until my friend discovered to him +that he had actually killed the reptile.</p> + +<p><a name="p214" id="p214"></a><span class="pagenum">[214]</span></p><br> +<hr class="short"> + +<h3>MANUFACTURES OF FAS.</h3> + +<p><i>Superior Manufacture of Gold-thread.--Imitation of precious +Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine.</i></p> + +<p>The manufactures of West Barbary, are of various +kinds. They excel, in the city of Fas, in the +manufacture of woollens, cottons, silks, and +gold-thread. The wool and cotton are made into +<i>hayks</i>, which are pieces of cloth five feet wide, +and about three and a half, or four yards long, +used to throw loosely over the dress, when they +go out into the external air: it resembles the +Roman toga, and when <i>tastefully adjusted</i>, gives +an elegance to the Moorish costume. These <i>hayks</i> +are manufactured in most of the private families +of Fas; the women employ themselves about +them, and sell them to the merchants. They are +sometimes made of cotton mixed with silk, and +also altogether of silk. They make also pieces of +silk of various bright colours, called <i>bulawan</i>; +the sky-blue, dark-blue, scarlet, and yellow, are +vivid colours, produced by their mode of dying +the silk before it is manufactured. They manufacture +their silks from <i>Bengal raw silk</i>, which +they call <i>emfitla</i>. The <i>bulawan</i> is striped, or chequered, +<a name="p215" id="p215"></a><span class="pagenum">[215]</span> +pink, blue, yellow, scarlet, and green: +it resembles what is called, in England, Persian, +but it is much stronger, and more<a id="footnotetag156" name="footnotetag156"></a> +<a href="#footnote156"><sup class="sml">156</sup></a> durable, +though equally light. The silk sashes, called +<i>hazam</i>, are made in large quantities, and are deserving +of imitation in Europe; they are very +substantial, but of the same superior colours with +the <i>bulawan</i>. They are made generally half a +yard wide, and three yards long: these sell at +Fas, from two to fifty dollars each. The superior +kind made for the ladies of the <i>horam</i><a id="footnotetag157" name="footnotetag157"></a> +<a href="#footnote157"><sup class="sml">157</sup></a>, or +emperor's seraglio, for the ladies of the bashaws, +and for those of the great and opulent, are intermixed +with a beautiful gold-thread, much +superior to any that is manufactured in Europe, +insomuch, that the gold-thread imported from +Leghorn and Marseilles is used only in such +<i>hazams</i> as are made for exportation to Sudan, +Draha, or Bled-el-Jereed, but those made for +the great and opulent, for home consumption, +are manufactured with the gold thread of the +Fas manufacture. Whether these expert artificers +learned the mystery of gold beating, and gold +wire drawing, by which they obtain gold-thread, +from the Egyptians, I am not competent to say; +<a name="p216" id="p216"></a><span class="pagenum">[216]</span> +but <i>they</i> say they derived it in ancient times from +the Arabs, as well as the art of cutting, polishing, +and setting precious stones. They make a +composition in imitation of amber, which cannot, +by the keenest eye, be distinguished from the +natural amber, the latter, however, by<a id="footnotetag158" name="footnotetag158"></a> +<a href="#footnote158"><sup class="sml">158</sup></a> friction +attracts cotton, but the manufactured amber +does not; this is the only criterion by which +they ascertain the true from the false amber. +They also compose artificial stones with equal +sagacity; the topaz, the emerald, and the ruby +they imitate to perfection. The wool with which +they make shawls almost equal in appearance +to those of Kashmere, is procured from the sheep +of the province of Tedla, and is finer than +the Spanish Merino. They might manufacture +shawls of goats' hair, equal to those of +Kashmere, from the goats of the eastern declivity +of the Atlas, whose hair is like silk: these +goats are called (<i>el maize Felelley</i>,) i.e. Tafilelt +goats.<a id="footnotetag159" name="footnotetag159"></a> +<a href="#footnote159"><sup class="sml">159</sup></a> There can be no doubt, if our intercourse +with Marocco had not been impeded by a general +<a name="p217" id="p217"></a><span class="pagenum">[217]</span> +ignorance of the language of that country, that +we might long since have received from the manufacturers +of Fas, shawls of Tafilelt goat-hair, +equal to the finest of the Kashmere manufacture. +There is a very extensive manufactory of red +woollen caps at Fas, the contexture of which is +well deserving investigation. There is also a +manufactory of gun locks and barrels; the former +appear to have reached the acmé of the +art, the latter are not so good as those which +they procure from Europe: so that a Spanish or +an English barrel, and a Fas lock, is considered +a complete gun. Such articles of manufacture +as require a complication of machinery and power +to produce they import from Europe, except only +when the market is bare, and then necessity +compels them to attempt their construction. +The (<i>hayk Filelly</i>,) i.e. Tafilelt hayk, is a fine +elegant woollen cloth, thin as a muslin. The Emperor +Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah patronised +this manufacture of his native country, and never +wore any other. The art of manufacturing leather +is carried to great perfection at Mequinas: +shoes of the thinnest leather are there made impervious +to water. The manufactures at Marocco +and Terodant are similar to those of Fas, +with the exception of that of gold-thread, and +the cutting and polishing of precious stones. +The preparation of leather at Marocco surpasses +any thing known in Europe: lion and tiger skins +they prepare white as snow, and soft as silk. +There are two plants that grow in the Atlas +<a name="p218" id="p218"></a><span class="pagenum">[218]</span> +mountains, the leaves of which they use in the +manufacture of leather; they are called <i>tizra</i>, and +<i>tasaya</i>. Whether these render the leather impervious, +I am not competent to say; every inquiry +that I have made at Marocco respecting this +beautiful manufacture, has been unsatisfactory. +I have always found the manufacturers very +guarded, and extremely jealous; but I have often +thought that two or three of our leather manufacturers, +well versed in their art, and withal of +penetrating minds, might contrive to extract the +secret from them. In the mountains of Idaultit, +in Lower Suse, they have iron-mines, and they +make gun-barrels and gun-locks equal to what +are made at Fas. The temptations to agriculture, +however, are such, that sufficient only for +the consumption of their own <i>kabyl</i> are manufactured; +which is done rather from a principle +of self-defense, and from the <i>amor patriæ</i>, than +with a view to gain. The silver from the mines +of Elala, comes to the Santa Cruz market pure, +and in round lumps, weighing about two ounces +each. I have bought it for its weight in Spanish +dollars; but it is generally taken to the Mint for +sale. Ores of gold from the mines of South Barbary, +and silver dust from the bed of the river +at Messa, collected personally by me, I sent to +England to be assayed: the person who got them +assayed, reported, that the metal yielded was +scarcely sufficient to pay the charges of assaying; +so that the speculation was abandoned.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote156" +name="footnote156"></a><b>Footnote 156:</b><a href="#footnotetag156"> +(return) </a> The spirit of avarice does not sufficiently prevail to induce +the manufacturer to make imperfect articles for the +purpose of sale only. Moreover, they are restrained from +deception by an officer, who inspects the quality of manufactures, +and does not suffer an imperfect article to be sold.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote157" +name="footnote157"></a><b>Footnote 157:</b><a href="#footnotetag157"> +(return) </a> This word is called by Europeans <i>haram</i> or seraglio; +but haram thus applied, is a barbarism: it signifies <i>vicious</i>. +Horam is the correct pronunciation: it signifies a place of +safety, that admits of no intrusion.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote158" +name="footnote158"></a><b>Footnote 158:</b><a href="#footnotetag158"> +(return) </a> Thales, the chief of the seven wise men of Greece, +detected the existence of electricity in amber about 600 +years before the Christian era. He was the first who observed +<i>attraction</i> to be the distinguishing property of amber; +and he was so forcibly struck with this singular discovery, +that he was almost led to suppose that it possessed animation. +The term electricity is derived from the Greek word [Greek: ηλεκτρον], +amber. See Remarks on Electricity and Galvanism, by +M. La Beaume, p. 29.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote159" +name="footnote159"></a><b>Footnote 159:</b><a href="#footnotetag159"> +(return) </a> There was a breed of these goats on the island of Mogodor, +kept there by the emperor's orders. This island is the state-prison +of the empire.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p219" id="p219"></a><span class="pagenum">[219]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h3>ON THE STATE OF SLAVERY</h3> + +<h4>IN MUHAMEDAN AFRICA.</h4> + +<p>The state of slavery in this country is very +different from that which is experienced by the +unfortunate men who are transported from +Africa to work under our Christian brethren in +the West India islands. No man, who is sufficiently +erudite to read the Koran can be (<i>abd</i>) +a slave in a Muhamedan country. It is incumbent +on a good mûselman to give such his liberty, +that the propagation of the (<i>Deen el +Wâsah</i><a id="footnotetag160" name="footnotetag160"></a> +<a href="#footnote160"><sup class="sml">160</sup></a>) mûselman faith, be not impeded. A +man who has served his master faithfully<a id="footnotetag161" name="footnotetag161"></a> +<a href="#footnote161"><sup class="sml">161</sup></a> seven +years, sometimes gets liberated. This liberation, +however, is not compulsory; but conscientious +mûselmen, of good moral character, often adopt +this enlarging system. I have, however, met with +many Moors, who, on offering liberty to their +slaves, the latter have declined it, preferring to +continue in obeisance; a clear proof that their +servitude is not very severe. All slaves, without +exception, are brought to this country from the +various territories of Sudan, by the akkabars, +kaffilas, or caravans, that traverse Sahara. They +are all pagans or idolaters (from the interior +regions). They are worth from ten to twenty +dollars at Timbuctoo; and at Marocco and Fas +<a name="p220" id="p220"></a><span class="pagenum">[220]</span> +they sell for, from seventy to one hundred dollars. +They are received into the Moorish families as +domestic servants, and soon forget their idolatrous +superstitions, and become (nominally at +least) Muhamedans. After which, many learn +to read the Koran, and becoming observers +of ablution and prostration, often procure their +liberation; for if any one should neglect to +liberate such a slave, his brethren in Muhamed +will urge him to it, as a good and charitable +work, becoming a true, mûselman.<a id="footnotetag162" name="footnotetag162"></a> +<a href="#footnote162"><sup class="sml">162</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote160" +name="footnote160"></a><b>Footnote 160:</b><a href="#footnotetag160"> +(return) </a> So called by Muhamedans: <i>literally</i> means the liberal +of <i>wide doctrine</i>, alluding to that of the Arabian Prophet.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote161" +name="footnote161"></a><b>Footnote 161:</b><a href="#footnotetag161"> +(return) </a> Jeremiah, xxxiv. 14.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote162" +name="footnote162"></a><b>Footnote 162:</b><a href="#footnotetag162"> +(return) </a> The etymology of <i>muselman</i> is, a man of peace; from +<i>salem</i>, peace.</blockquote> + +<p>The man who wrote the letter from Timbuctoo, +giving his master at Mogodor an account of Mungo +Park, having visited Kabria, which letter I read, +and reported its contents on my arrival in England +from Mogodor, about the year 1807, to +my Lord Moira (now the Marquis of Hastings), +to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles Morgan, +was a liberated negro of Seed el Abes Buhellel, +a Fas merchant, whose father had an establishment +at Timbuctoo. When Buhellel liberated +this negro, he had such confidence in him, that +he advanced to him, on his own personal credit, +goods to a considerable amount, with which he +crossed Sahara, and took them to Timbuctoo +for a market. It were to be desired, for the +sake of <i>humanity</i>, that our West-India planters +would take a lesson on this subject from the +Moors, whose conduct, in this particular, is +worthy of imitation.</p> + +<p><a name="p221" id="p221"></a><span class="pagenum">[221]</span></p> +<br><br> +<h3>THE PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS.</h3> + +<p><i>Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable +Instance of their destroying every Green Herb +on one Side of a River, and not on the other.</i></p> + +<p>In the autumn of 1792, (Jeraad) locusts began to +appear in West Barbary. The corn was in ear, and +therefore safe, as this devouring insect attacks +no hard substance. In (the <i>liahli</i>,) the period of +heavy rains comprised between the forty longest +nights, <i>old style</i>, they disappeared; so that one or +two only were seen occasionally: but so soon as +the <i>liahli</i> had passed, the small young green locust +began to appear, no bigger than a fly. As vegetation +increased, these insects increased in +size and quantity. But the country did not yet +seem to suffer from them. About the end of +March, they increased rapidly. I was at (<i>Larsa +Sultan</i>) the emperor's garden, which belongs to +the Europeans, and which was given to the +merchants of Mogodor by the emperor Seedi +Muhamed ben Abdallah, in the kabyl of Idaugourd, +in the province of Haha, and the garden +flourished with every green herb, and the fruit-trees +were all coming forward in the productive +beauty of spring. I went there the following +day, and not a green leaf was to be seen: an +army of locusts had attacked it during the +<a name="p222" id="p222"></a><span class="pagenum">[222]</span> +night, and had devoured every shrub, every +vegetable, and every green leaf; so that the +garden had been converted into an unproductive +wilderness. And, notwithstanding the incredible +devastation that was thus produced, not one +locust was to be seen. The gardener reported, +that (<i>sultan jeraad</i>) the king of the locusts +had taken his departure eastward early in the +morning; the myriads of locusts followed, so +that in a quarter of an hour not one was to be +seen. The depredations of these devouring insects +was too soon felt, and a direful scarcity +ensued. The poor would go out a locusting, as +they termed it: the bushes were covered; they +took their (<i>haik</i>) garment, and threw it over +them, and then collected them in a sack. In +half an hour they would collect a bushel. These +they would take home, and boil a quarter of an +hour; they would then put them into a frying-pan, +with pepper, salt, and vinegar, and +eat them, without bread or any other food, +making a meal of them. They threw away the +head, wings, and legs, and ate them as we do +prawns. They considered them wholesome +food, and preferred them to pigeons. Afterwards, +whenever there was any public entertainment +given, locusts was a standing dish; +and it is remarkable that the dish was always +emptied, so generally were they esteemed as +palatable food.</p> + +<p>A few years after the locusts appeared, I +performed a journey from Mogodor to Tangier. +<a name="p223" id="p223"></a><span class="pagenum">[223]</span> +The face of the country appeared like a newly +ploughed field of a brown soil; for it was completely +covered with these insects, insomuch +that they had devoured even the bark of the +trees. They rose up about a yard, as the horses +went on, and settled again; in some places +they were one upon another, three or four +inches deep on the ground; a few were flying +in the air, and they flew against the face, as if +they were blind, to the no small annoyance of +the traveller. It is very remarkable, that on +reaching the banks of the river<a id="footnotetag163" name="footnotetag163"></a> +<a href="#footnote163"><sup class="sml">163</sup></a> Elkos, which we +crossed, there was not, on the north side of that +river, to my great astonishment, one locust any +where to be seen; but the country was flourishing +in all the luxuriance of verdure, although +the river was not wider than the Thames +at Windsor. This extraordinary circumstance +was accounted for by the Arabs, who said that +not a locust would cross the river, till (<i>sultan +jeraad</i>) the king of the locusts should precede +and direct the way.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote163" +name="footnote163"></a><b>Footnote 163:</b><a href="#footnotetag163"> +(return) </a> See the Map of the empire of Marocco.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p224" id="p224"></a><span class="pagenum">[224]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h3>ON THE INFLUENCE</h3> + +<h4>OF THE</h4> + +<h2>GREAT PRINCIPLE OF CHRISTIANITY</h2> + +<h3><i>ON THE MOORS</i>.</h3> + +<h4>(Mat. vii. 12.)</h4> + +<p><i>Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes +that prevent it.--The Mode of promoting it is through +a friendly and commercial Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation +to Great Britain to attend to the Intercourse +with Africa.--Danger of the French colonizing +Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating +the Value of our West-India Islands.</i></p> + +<p>That it is a Christian duty to attempt, by +lenient measures, to propagate the Christian +religion among the Idolaters and Muhamedans of +Africa, I think cannot be doubted; but this +propagation will not spread to any considerable +extent until, (in that country,) the morals of Christians +in general shall approach nearer than they +actually do to the standard of Christian perfection. +It is, however, most certain that there never was a +more promising, or a more favourable opportunity +of subverting paganism in Africa, and establishing +Christianity on its ruins, than at this present +period; and I think the best method to effect +this desirable purpose is through the medium of +commerce, which must, in that continent, necessarily +precede science and civilisation. It is +well known, by all men of penetration who have +<a name="p225" id="p225"></a><span class="pagenum">[225]</span> +resided in Muhamedan countries, that the principles +of the religion of Muhamed are not so repugnant +to Christianity as many, nay, most persons +have imagined. Various causes, however, +tend to increase the hostility that exists between +the two religions. First, it is augmented by the fakeers, +and by political men, who are ever active in +bringing to their aid superstition and enthusiasm, +to increase the hostility. Secondly, it is augmented +by the very little intercourse which they +have with Christians, originating, for the most +part, in our ignorance of the Arabic language, +an ignorance which has been lamented by the +emperor<a id="footnotetag164" name="footnotetag164"></a> +<a href="#footnote164"><sup class="sml">164</sup></a> Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah himself. +Thirdly, the hostility of these two religions is +augmented by a very ancient tradition, that the +country will be invaded by the Christians, and +converted to Christianity, that this event will +happen on a Friday (the Muhamedan sabbath), +during the time that they are at the (<i>silla dohor</i>) +prayers at half past one o'clock, P.M.; so that +<a name="p226" id="p226"></a><span class="pagenum">[226]</span> +throughout the empire they close the gates of +all the towns on this day, at this period of time, +till two o'clock, P.M.: when the prayers are +over, and the people go out of the mosques, the +gates are again thrown open. This tradition, +which is universally believed, acts on the minds +of the whole community, and fans the embers +of hostility already lighted between Christians +and Muhamedans, bringing to the recollection +of the latter the hostile intentions of the former +to invade and take their country from them, +when an opportunity shall offer. On the other +hand, what tends to reconcile the two creeds is, +the influence that European commerce, and the +principles of the Christian doctrine, have had on +the muselmen of Africa. This influence extends +as far as the commerce with Europeans extends. +Wherever the Europeans negociate with the +Moors, the great principle of the Christian +doctrine is known and discussed,--that principle +which surpasses every doctrine propagated by +the Grecian philosophers, or the wise men of the +East,--that truly noble, liberal, and charitable +principle, "Do as you would be done by," influences +the conduct of the better educated +muselmen who have had long intercourse and +negociations with Christians; and they do not +fail to retort it upon us, whenever <i>our conduct</i> +deviates from it. Thus, the minds of muselmen, +wherever European commerce flows, are +tinctured with this great principle of the Christian +doctrine. And, to an accurate observer of +<a name="p227" id="p227"></a><span class="pagenum">[227]</span> +mankind, it will appear that this principle, from +its own intrinsic beauty, has in many superseded +the muselman retaliative system of morality, +originating in the Mosaic law,--"An eye for an +eye, and a tooth for a tooth." For I have heard +muselmen, in their individual disputes with one +another, advance this precept as a rule of conduct. +If, therefore, this divine principle be +recognised by muselmen, who have had intercourse +and commercial negociations with Europeans, +in defiance of the obstacles to this +doctrine suggested by the fakeers and political +men; what might we not expect from the due +cultivation of an extensive commerce, upon a +grand national scale, with this interesting continent? +Might we not expect a gradual diffusion +of the principles of Christianity among the +muselmen, as well as among the pagans and +idolaters, of Africa? I would venture to assert, +that in the event of the British government engaging, +with energy and determination, to +cultivate a commercial intercourse and extensive +connection with Africa, that the negroes, and +possibly even the Muhamedans, might gradually +be converted to Christianity. This event would +take a long time to accomplish, but its gradual +progress, most probably, would be more rapid +than was the progress of Muhamedanism during +the life of the Arabian prophet.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote164" +name="footnote164"></a><b>Footnote 164:</b><a href="#footnotetag164"> +(return) </a> When this Emperor, for the purpose of satisfying his +people that he administered retributive justice, ordered +two teeth of an English merchant to be drawn, he repented +so much of what he had done, that he offered to make any +amends that the merchant might require, expressing his +wish that he had an English consul with whom he could +converse colloquially, without the inconvenience of an interpreter; +and for this purpose the Emperor, after granting +him considerable favours, urged him to accept of the British +consulship; adding, that he himself would secure him the +appointment, and that he would then refuse nothing, but +whatsoever the English should ask of him, they should +have.</blockquote> + +<p>Associations have been formed in this philanthropic +country, through the medium of extensive +subscriptions, for the civilisation of +<a name="p228" id="p228"></a><span class="pagenum">[228]</span> +Africa, and the abolition of the slave trade: +the greatest merit is due to the individuals +who have subscribed to such institutions; their +motives have been unexceptionable, but we +grossly deceive ourselves, and the whole is an +illusion! The French, as it were, have taken +the staff out of our hands; and whilst we are +in vain endeavouring to abolish the trade in +slaves, <i>by the capture of slave-ships at sea</i><a id="footnotetag165" name="footnotetag165"></a> +<a href="#footnote165"><sup class="sml">165</sup></a>, +they are insidiously cultivating the growth of +cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, and other colonial +produce, on the banks of the Senegal river; insomuch +that if we shall continue thus supinely to +disregard their important African agricultural +operations, the result in a few years will probably +be, that they will be able to undersell us in West-India +produce, in the markets of continental +Europe; for they can cultivate, with free negroes +at Senegal, colonial produce at considerably +less expense than our West-India cultivation. +The voyage, also, is not half the +distance; so that the continental market +for the sale of West-India produce will be +shortly supplied from Senegal, from whence it +<a name="p229" id="p229"></a><span class="pagenum">[229]</span> +is more than probable that colonial produce will +be imported to Europe at little more than half +the expense of importing it from the West Indies: +thus Great Britain may be driven out of the +market for colonial produce, except for what +may be sufficient for her own domestic supply.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote165" +name="footnote165"></a><b>Footnote 165:</b><a href="#footnotetag165"> +(return) </a> Many naval officers concur in thinking, that to suppress +the slave trade, by interrupting the ships, would employ all +the navy of Great Britain; and entail a war-expense on the +nation; besides the enormous expense that will be necessarily +incurred by the various commissions dispatched to +Sierra Leone, Havannah, &c. &c. for the adjudication of +slave-causes. To which may be added, our expensive presents +to Spain and Portugal, to induce those powers to coalesce +in the abolition; which there is too much reason to +apprehend will be evaded by the subjects of those powers.</blockquote> + +<p>This has been a favourite scheme of the +French, who have now begun to taste the fruits +of it: they have had it in view and in operation +<i>ever since we gave them possession of Senegal</i>. +It was the system of her late Emperor, Bonaparte, +suggested to him by the arch and brilliant +genius of Talleyrand, to indemnify the loss of +St. Domingo.</p> + +<p>Moreover, the French, who are cultivating +the territory of Senegal with indefatigable +industry, will be, in a few years, not only able +to supply the continental markets of Europe +with colonial produce, but they will become +masters of North Africa, establish another +Ceuta at the African promontory of the Cape +de Verd, and, in the event of a war, annoy +incalculably our East-India trade, and enhance +the price of East-India produce in the British +dominions; whilst they will, by the aid of the +Americans, who will be always ready to assist +them, form a depot for East-India goods at the +Cape de Verd, and from thence introduce them +into Africa and France, to the almost total exclusion +of Great Britain. If we are to prevent these +events from taking place, we must adopt different +measures from what we have adopted; we must +<a name="p230" id="p230"></a><span class="pagenum">[230]</span> +move in a very different sphere from that in which +we have been accustomed to move; we must be +much more energetic, more vigilant, and more +active than we have been, with respect to African +matters. It is presumed that these suggestions +are well deserving the consideration of His +Majesty's ministers. May they view with the +eye of an eagle and the wisdom of the serpent +the insidious encroachments that are thus +making on our colonial markets!!</p> + +<p>The Africans, by which term I mean the natives, +viz. the Moors, the Arabs, the Berebbers, +the Shelluhs, and the Negroes, (not the Jews, +who, although numerous in this country, yet, as +they are and have been ever since their Theocratical +Government, a distinct race, and their +customs and manners well known, I do not include +them in the term Africans, although from their +birth they are entitled to the appellation,)--the +Africans, I say, are seldom met with in closed +rooms, but are constantly in the open air, transacting +their business in <i>dwarias</i>, which are +detached rooms, or apartments, with three +sides, the fourth being supported by pillars; +this custom of living continually in or exposed +to the external air renders them strong +and healthy, wherefore their bodies, by an +<i>antiperistasis</i>, have the natural heat repelled and +kept within, increasing by this action their appetite +for food, which is always strong. They +live in a frugal manner, seldom eating but of +one food: the prevailing dish throughout North +<a name="p231" id="p231"></a><span class="pagenum">[231]</span> +Africa is cuscasoe, a granulated paste, cooked +by steam, and garnished with vegetables, and +chickens, or mutton; this is a very nutritive, +palatable, and wholesome dish. They are +not incumbered at their meals with a variety +of dishes; but a large bowl, or spacious plate, +is introduced on a round table, supported by +one pillar, like the <i>Monopodia</i> of the ancients, +rather larger than the bowl or dish, and about +six inches high. Half a dozen Moors sit round +this repast, on cushions or on the ground, cross-legged; +a position which they remain in with +perfect ease and pliability from custom and the +loose dress they wear. When the company have +seated themselves, a slave or a servant comes +round to the guests, to perform the ceremony of +(<i>togrêda</i>) washing of the hands; a brass bason +or pan, which they call <i>tas</i>, is brought round to +all the company, the slave holding it by his left +hand, while, with the right hand, he pours water +on the hands of the guests from a (<i>garoff</i>) +pitcher, in the form of an Etruscan vase, having +(<i>zeef</i>) a towel thrown over his shoulder to dry +their hands. This ceremony is performed before +and after meals. The master of the feast, before +they begin to eat, pronounces (<i>Bismillah</i>) +the grace before meat, which signifies, "In the +name of God;" after the repast, he says (<i>El +Ham'd û lillah</i>) "Praise be to God." Each guest +eats with the fingers of his right hand, none ever +touching the food with their left. If a piece of +meat, or a joint of a fowl or chicken is to be +<a name="p232" id="p232"></a><span class="pagenum">[232]</span> +divided, two of the guests take hold of it, and +pull it till it is divided. This is somewhat repugnant +to an European's ideas of delicacy; but +if we consider that the hands are previously +washed, and that they never come in contact with +the mouth in decent or respectable society, there +is not so insuperable an objection to this way of +eating as might otherwise appear. Each person +in eating the granulated flour or cuscasoe, puts +his two fore-fingers into the dish before him, and +by a dextrous turn of the hand converts the +quantity taken up into the form of a ball, which +he, with a peculiar dexterity, jirks into the +mouth. The Africans never drink till they have +done eating; when dinner is over, a large goblet, +or <i>poculum amicitiæ</i>, of pure water is passed +round, and each person drinks copiously; the +washing is then repeated, and the repast is terminated. +Afterwards coffee is introduced, without +milk: the cup is not placed in a saucer, nor +do they hand you a spoon, for the sugar is mixed +in the coffee-pot; the cup is presented in an +outer cup of brass, which preserves the fingers +from being burned. They use no bells in their +tents; but the slaves or servants are called by +the master when wanted, one generally standing +in the corner of the tent to superintend the +others. The pipe is sometimes introduced after +the coffee, but this is by no means a general +custom, except among the negroes. The pipe +is of rose-wood, of jasmin, or of rhododendrum +wood: great quantities of the latter are conveyed +<a name="p233" id="p233"></a><span class="pagenum">[233]</span> +across the Sahara, for pipe-tubes for the +negroes of Timbuctoo, and other territories of +Sudan, bordering on the Nile el Abeed, or Nile +of the Negroes (Niger).</p> + +<p>Passing through this territory of encampments, +when travellers are disposed to sleep at a +douar, one of the party presents himself at the +confines of the encampment, and exclaims (<i>Deef +Allah</i>) "The guest of God." The sheik of the +douar is immediately apprised of the circumstance; +and after investigating the rank of the +travellers, he enquires if they have tents with +them; if they have not, he has his own +or (<i>kheyma deâf</i>) the guest's tent appropriated +for the travellers. If they have their own +tents, which persons of respectability generally +have, the sheik comes and directs the servants +where to pitch them; the camels and mules are +disburdened, and the sheik declares (<i>atshie +m'hassub alia</i>) "For all this baggage I hold myself +accountable." Europeans travelling in this +country generally follow their own customs: +accordingly, among the English, tea is ordered; +a most delectable refreshment after a fatiguing +journey on horseback, exposed to the scorching +rays of the African sun. If the sheik and a +few of his friends are invited to tea, which these +Arabs designate by (<i>elma skoon û el hadra</i>) hot +water and conversation, they like it very sweet, +and drink half-a-dozen cups at least. Nothing +ingratiates travellers with these people so much +as distributing a few lumps of sugar among +<a name="p234" id="p234"></a><span class="pagenum">[234]</span> +them: sugar, honey, or any thing sweet, being +with these Arabs emblematical of peace and +friendship. Some of the women of the Arabs +are extremely handsome; in all the simplicity +of nature "when unadorned adorned the most." +To fine figures they unite handsome profiles, +good and white teeth, and large, black, expressive, +intelligent eyes, like the eyes of a gazel; +dark eye-brows, and dark long eye-lashes, which +give a peculiar warmth and softness to the eye. +They concern themselves little about time, and +will sometimes come to converse after midnight +with the Europeans. When the guard of the +tent informs them they cannot go in, that the +Christian is a-bed and undressed, they are not +less astonished than we are to see them sleeping +in the open air at night, on the ground, with +their clothes on. When candles are brought +into the tent at night, the servant wishes the +company a good evening: he says "<i>M'sah elkhere</i>," +the literal meaning of which is "<i>Good be +with you this evening</i>;" which salutation it is +courteous to return, even to a slave; and if any +one, however great his rank, were not to return +it, he would be considered a bad muselman, a +disaffected and inhospitable barbarian. The +morning salutation is (<i>Alem Allah sebak</i>,) "May +your morning be accompanied with the knowledge +of God;" or, (<i>Sebah el khere</i>, or <i>sebahk +b'elkhere</i>) "Good morning to you," or "May your +morning be good." Equals meeting, touch hands, +and then each kisses his own respectively; they +<a name="p235" id="p235"></a><span class="pagenum">[235]</span> +then say, (I now speak of the middle order of +society,) "And how are you, and how have +you been: how long it is since I saw you! and +how are you, and how are your children; (<i>ûhel +Dar'kume</i>,) and the people of your family, how +are they, certainly you are well:" and so they +will go on, sometimes for a quarter of an hour, +repeating the same thing. If an inferior meets +a superior, he kisses his hand or his garment +and retires, when there is a greater disparity of +rank, the inferior kisses the stirrup of the superior; +or prostrates himself if the superior is a +prince, a fakeer, or a bashaw.</p> + +<p>Another salutation among respectable individuals +is, by each placing his right hand on his +heart, indicating that part to be the residence of +the friend!</p> + +<p>The Jews of this country retain the customs +of their ancestors more pure and unmixed than +those in other countries.</p> + +<p>When a Jew dies he is interred the same day, +or the day after at farthest. The female relations +and the friends of the deceased assemble round +the corpse, and utter bitter lamentations, tearing +their faces and their hair in a most woeful +manner; they disfigure their faces with their +finger-nails, till they bleed, and during the +whole time keep stamping or moving their legs, +beating time, as it were, with their feet; +these lamentations are continued, with occasional +intermission, till the body of the deceased +is carried away for interment. The performers +<a name="p236" id="p236"></a><span class="pagenum">[236]</span> +of these bitter lamentations appear to +have all the marks of hideous grief inscribed on +their faces, but most of them feel no real concern; +some of the girls, young and handsome, +near akin to the deceased, are ambitious to disfigure +themselves, and they lacerate their pretty +faces most lamentably. The more wounds these +bear on their cheeks the greater is their grief +considered to be. But the corpse being removed +the mourners regale themselves with +<i>Mahaya</i>, or African brandy, and make up for +their lamentations, by converting their bitter +strains into conviviality.</p> + +<p>There is a strange resemblance between this +custom and that practised by the inhabitants +of New Zealand; insomuch that we might +imagine the latter to be one of the lost +tribes of this extraordinary people. It is true +that we have no record of such a perfection of +navigation as to enable us to conjecture how a +tribe of Jews could reach New Zealand: but +many things remain in great obscurity even in +this enlightened age; and we have had no historical +record transmitted to us from the ancients +of many extraordinary discoveries that recently +have been made in Egypt.</p> +<br><br> +<p><a name="p237" id="p237"></a><span class="pagenum">[237]</span></p> + +<h3>INTEREST OF MONEY.</h3> + +<p class="mid"><i>Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital.</i></p> + +<p>In this country the law allows no interest of +money; the consequence is, that the country is +overwhelmed with usurers, who exact, generally, +an oath of secrecy, and lend money on pledges +of valuable and convertible merchandise: the +interest paid on these negociations is most +exorbitant; I have known five, six, eight, ten, +and even twelve per cent, per month paid +for the use of money! There is no paper +money in this country; but a bank might +be established at Mogodor, for the convenience +of internal trade: the <i>sine qua non</i> of the bank +should be, AN ADEQUATE CAPITAL. The advantages +that would necessarily result from an establishment +of this kind are incalculable; the +paper of a bank, <i>thus established</i>, would be current +in a short time, UNDER JUDICIOUS AND INTELLIGENT +MANAGEMENT, in all the territories of +Sudan, through the heart of Africa, through +Bambâra, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Cashna, Wangara, +Bernôh, Fas, and Marocco, and various +other countries. The immense advantages of +the carriage of paper through the Desert and +<a name="p238" id="p238"></a><span class="pagenum">[238]</span> +through Sudan, <i>convertible</i> into cash at every +commercial city, port, or district in a country +like this, would greatly facilitate the operations +of commerce; this must be evident to every political +economist acquainted with the nature of +commercial negociations in Africa.</p> + +<p>The superflux of coin, consisting principally +of Mexico dollars, and doubloons, (over and +above the quantum necessary for the circulating +medium of commercial negociations,) is either +buried under ground by the owner, or converted +into jewels for the ladies of his family; there is +a general propensity to these subterraneous +hordes; the bulk of the people, the lower +classes in particular, have an idea that they +will enjoy in the next world what they save +in this; which opinion is not extraordinary, +when we consider how many cases there are, +wherein we see the sublimest capacity prostrate at +the shrine of an <i>early imbibed</i> superstition. Many +of these erring philosophers, therefore, attentive +to the accumulation of riches, retire from this +sublunary world with an immense immolated +treasure, wherewith to begin, as they imagine, +their career in the world to come!</p> + +<p>"We," they say, "convert our superflux to +jewels and costly apparel for our females, and +we have the gratification of seeing them well +apparelled and agreeably ornamented. Moreover, +a great part of our possessions is appropriated +to the sacred rites of hospitality, which +<a name="p239" id="p239"></a><span class="pagenum">[239]</span> +you Christians know not how to practise; for +you worship the idol of ostentation; you invite +your friends to dinner; you incur an intolerable +and injudicious expense, and provide a multiplicity +of dishes to pamper their appetites, sufficient +for a regiment of muselmen; when nature +and national beings, which men were born +to be, require only one dish. Moreover, your +sumptuous entertainments are given to those +only who do not want; therefore is it an ostentatious +and a wanton waste! We, on the contrary, +that is to say, every good Muselman, gives +one-tenth of his property to the poor; and moreover +much of his substance is appropriated to +the support, not of the rich and independent, +who do not want it, but to (<i>deefan</i>) strange +guests who journey from one country to another; +insomuch that, with us, a poor man may +travel by public beneficence and apt hospitality +from the shores of the Mediterranean to the +borders of Sahara, without a fluce<a id="footnotetag166" name="footnotetag166"></a> +<a href="#footnote166"><sup class="sml">166</sup></a> in (<i>hashituh</i>) +the corner of his garment.<a id="footnotetag167" name="footnotetag167"></a> +<a href="#footnote167"><sup class="sml">167</sup></a> A traveller, however +poor he may be, is never at a loss for a +meal, several meals, and even for three days entertainment, +wherever he travels through our +country; and if any man were to go to a douar +in any of the Arab provinces of our Sovereign's +<a name="p240" id="p240"></a><span class="pagenum">[240]</span> +empire, and not receive the entertainment and +courtesy of a brother, that douar would be +stamped with a stigma of indelible disgrace! +Pardon us, therefore, if we say, you have not +such hospitality in your country, although the +great principle of (<i>Seedna Aisa</i>) our Lord Jesus, +is charity."<a id="footnotetag168" name="footnotetag168"></a> +<a href="#footnote168"><sup class="sml">168</sup></a> I should, however, observe that +this hospitality is shown almost exclusively to +Muhamedans.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote166" +name="footnote166"></a><b>Footnote 166:</b><a href="#footnotetag166"> +(return) </a> A fluce is a copper coin, one hundred of which are equal +to sixpence English.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote167" +name="footnote167"></a><b>Footnote 167:</b><a href="#footnotetag167"> +(return) </a> In the corner of his garment:--The Africans have no +pockets; they carry their money in the corner of their garment, +and tie it with a knot to secure it.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote168" +name="footnote168"></a><b>Footnote 168:</b><a href="#footnotetag168"> +(return) </a> The Muhamedans acknowledge Jesus Christ to have +been a Prophet that worked miracles; the indelible proof of +his mission.</blockquote> + +<p>Respecting women and horses, speaking of +the treatment of them in England, they remark, +that "England is a paradise for women, who are +there exalted beyond the fitness of things; and +it is (<i>gehennum</i>) a hell for horses, for those poor +ill-treated animals in the hackney coaches and +carts, need only to be seen to be pitied; the +hard blows which they receive from their cruel +masters are calculated to impress our minds with +an opinion that we are in a land of barbarians, +whereas you call yourselves a civilised people: +You say you are such; your actions deny the +fact, and we judge by actions, not by words or +self-commendations. When, therefore, you pride +yourselves on your superiority and civilisation +the whole is a delusion; and when we hear you +set forth these absurd pretensions, we are compelled +to commiserate our common race, and to exclaim, +Alas, poor human nature!" This is the verbatim +<a name="p241" id="p241"></a><span class="pagenum">[251]</span> +reply that a very intelligent but irritated +Muselman made to my animadversions on the +absurdity of burying treasure. This gentleman's +father had been ambassador from the +Emperor of Marocco to Great Britain, and to +France; and had seen much of French, Spanish, +and English manners, among the higher orders +of society in those countries.</p> + +<p>Too much cannot be said in commendation +of this generous, open-hearted philanthropy of +the Arabs, here described: but the intelligent +reader will understand, that it applies particularly +to the Arabs, or cultivators of the plains, +in the empire of Marocco; and, in its large +and unlimited extent, to the Bedouin or +roving Arabs of the Sahara, and of Lower +Suse, from whose (<i>kabyles</i>) clans, the Arabs cultivators +are early emigrations; almost all of +them having their original stock in the Sahara. +It is also confined, almost exclusively, to Muhamedans, +and does not, like the divine doctrine +of Jesus Christ, with universal benevolence +embrace all mankind, without distinction of +party, sect, or nation;--a doctrine which has +lately been put in considerable practice in our own +country, by institutions supported by voluntary +subscriptions for the destitute, for foreigners +in distress, and for negroes; by institutions in +aid and support of all needy persons labouring +under sickness, or having need of surgical +aid; by institutions for the encouragement +of industry, for the refutation of vice and immorality; +<a name="p242" id="p242"></a><span class="pagenum">[242]</span> +by institutions that reflect immortal +honour on this country, and cast a lustre on the +respective individuals who have contributed to +all these heart-approving institutions, which are +calculated to afford relief to almost every description +of suffering humanity!!</p> + +<p>Itinerant (<i>tebeebs</i>) doctors travel through the +country to administer to the sick; which, however, +are seldom found. They carry over their +shoulders a leathern bag, containing their surgical +apparatus, which consists of a lancet, a +scarifying knife, and a caustic knife, or knife +for burning: they scarify the neck, the forehead, +or the wrists. The caustic knife is an +instrument of very general application. They +convert all gun-shot and other wounds, as well +as sores, into burns, by heating the knife in +the fire, and gently touching the circumference +of the wound with it. This produces acute +pain; but the Africans bear pain heroically: +they say that this method prevents inflammation +and festering. They perform, by caustic, extraordinary +cures. I imagine this method would +not agree with an European body, pampered +with a variety of high food and luxurious +living.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of this country break their +fast with (<i>el hassûa</i>) barley-gruel; they grind +the barley to the size of sparrow-shot, this they +mix with water, and simmer over a slow fire +two or three hours. This food is esteemed extremely +wholesome, and is antifebrile. The +<a name="p243" id="p243"></a><span class="pagenum">[243]</span> +Emperor takes this before he drinks tea in a +morning: his father, Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, +also, who drank none but fine hyson +tea, never would drink that beverage till he +had first laid a foundation of <i>el hassûa</i>.</p> + +<p>The Arabs and Shelluhs, with whom <i>el hassûa</i> +is generally used, urge its salubrity, by reporting +that a physician alighted in a strange country, +and when he arose in the morning, after performing +his matins, he seated himself with some +of the inhabitants, and, conversing, asked them +how they lived, and with what food they broke +their fast? "With <i>el hassûa</i>," was the reply: +"Then," rejoined Esculapius, (<i>Salam û alikume</i>,) +"Peace be with you; for if you eat <i>el hassûa</i> +in the morning you have no need of a doctor:" +and he immediately departed.</p> + +<p>When I established the port of Santa Cruz, +and opened it to European commerce, the gratitude +and hospitality of the Arabs and Shelluhs +of the province of Suse, was demonstrated in +every way: so rejoiced were they to see their +port, after an inactivity of thirty years, again +re-established. If I rode out to visit any part +of the country, the women, on my approach to +a douar, would come out to a great distance +with bowls of milk on their heads; others with +bowls of honey, with thin scrapings of butter +in them, and bread or cakes<a id="footnotetag169" name="footnotetag169"></a> +<a href="#footnote169"><sup class="sml">169</sup></a>, similar to pancakes, +<a name="p244" id="p244"></a><span class="pagenum">[244]</span> +baked in five minutes, on stones heated +with the embers of charcoal. These greetings +I received by tasting every bowl of milk, and +dipping a bit of bread in the honey and eating +it. The milk thus presented is emblematical of +peace and amity; the honey of welcome: to +refuse eating or tasting what is thus presented, +is considered, among this patriarchal people, a +great breach of good manners, an inexcusable +want of courtesy, which they say none but a +<i>kaffer</i><a id="footnotetag170" name="footnotetag170"></a> +<a href="#footnote170"><sup class="sml">170</sup></a> would commit. They would then say, +<i>Birk eeaudee, birk attajar u straha</i>, "Alight, I +pray thee, alight, merchant! and rest yourself."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote169" +name="footnote169"></a><b>Footnote 169:</b><a href="#footnotetag169"> +(return) </a> See a similar custom in Genesis, xxiii. 5--8.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote170" +name="footnote170"></a><b>Footnote 170:</b><a href="#footnotetag170"> +(return) </a> Kaffer is the Arabic term for Infidel. All the idolatrous +Negro nations are, by Muhamedans, denominated Kaffer, +(or Caffres). Sing. Kâffer--plural Kaffer.</blockquote> + +<p>In these halcyon days, these grateful people +never knew when to cease offering presents. +They sat on the ground in the refulgent meridian +sun, and when I dismounted to walk to +the shade of a tree, to partake of their hospitality, +they would exhort me to shun the shade, +(<i>lie ê drab'k elbird</i>) for fear it should give me +cold. These Bedouin<a id="footnotetag171" name="footnotetag171"></a> +<a href="#footnote171"><sup class="sml">171</sup></a> Arabs of Suse and Sahara +<a name="p245" id="p245"></a><span class="pagenum">[245]</span> +are the descendants of the ancient Arabs, +whose bold and figurative language is the same +that was spoken in Arabia twelve centuries ago, +in the time of Muhamed.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote171" +name="footnote171"></a><b>Footnote 171:</b><a href="#footnotetag171"> +(return) </a> The Arabs of the vast plains of the empire of Marocco, +who live in douars, or encampments, are emigrations from +the original stock or clan in Sahara; who are the pure or +Bedouin Arabs. Being established in the beautiful and +productive plains of West and South Barbary, they soon +forget their Bedouin customs, change their wandering, plundering +habits, and become cultivators, and stationary; for +the immense produce of their labour in these plains, +which require no dung, nor any preparation but the plough, +soon rewards their industry, so as to determine them to continue +this new mode of life.</blockquote> + +<p>Passing early one morning by a douar, in the +territory of Howara,<a id="footnotetag172" name="footnotetag172"></a> +<a href="#footnote172"><sup class="sml">172</sup></a> I was invited to join a party to hunt the wild boar. The plains of +Howara, between the city of Terodant and +Santa Cruz, abound with boars: we started, +in a few hours, seven of these animals, two +of which were taken and killed. The dogs +best calculated for this sport are what they call +<i>sereet telt</i>, or the third race of greyhounds, +which is a very strong dog. One of these, +I observed, attacked the boars by the nape +of the neck, and never left his hold till the +other dogs came up to the attack: although the +boar would toss him about in all directions, he +never left his hold. The Arabs of Suse are very +dextrous and active at this sport: they hunt with +javelins; some have guns, which they fire when +opportunity offers, but they never expend their +powder and shot (<i>batâl</i>) vainly, as they express it, +but always make sure of their mark. I could not +but admire this celebrated (<i>slogie</i>) greyhound; +<a name="p246" id="p246"></a><span class="pagenum">[246]</span> +which the Arab to whom it belonged observing, +insisted on my taking it home to Santa Cruz, +adding, that whenever I wished to hunt, to let +him know, and he would accompany me. I offered +him a present of money for the dog, which +is what I never had refused before in the provinces +north of Suse; but he declined the offer, saying +he was more than recompensed already by the +establishment of the port of Santa Cruz. "Myself, +my family, my kabyl," said he, "hail you +as a father; (<i>e moot alik</i>) they will die in your +cause." No favour could have equalled that of +re-establishing the commerce of Agadeer. These +circumstances serve to show what reception +might be expected from these people, if the +British Government would negociate with the +Emperor for the purchase of the port of Agadeer, +or Santa Cruz, preparatory to the establishment +of a commerce with Timbuctoo, and other regions +of Sudan.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote172" +name="footnote172"></a><b>Footnote 172:</b><a href="#footnotetag172"> +(return) </a> In the 815th year of the Hejira, an emigration from the +Howara Arabs attacked, took possession of, and destroyed +the city of Assouan, in Egypt.</blockquote> +<br><br> + +<p><a name="p247" id="p247"></a><span class="pagenum">[247]</span></p> + +<h2>PLAN</h2> + +<h4>FOR THE</h4> + +<h3>GRADUAL CIVILISATION OF AFRICA.</h3> + +<p class="mid"><i>On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the<br> +Sahara and Ashantee.</i></p> + +<p>To cultivate an extensive commercial intercourse +with Africa, I have already observed, +that the best method, the simplest, and that +which is, from contingent circumstances, the +most likely to succeed, is the plan which I have +pointed out in the following prospectus. I +shall now offer several reasons why this plan is +superior to any other hitherto suggested.</p> + +<p>The riches of the Arabs of Sahara generally, as +well as of that part which I have contemplated +as a convenient spot for establishing a colony, +and for opening a communication with Sudan, +consists exclusively in camels. The independence +of a man is there ascertained by the number +of camels he possesses; it is not said, how many +thousand dollars has he? or, what quantity of +gold does he possess? or, what land has he? +but, how many camels does he own? The master +of these, aptly denominated, ships of the Desert, +is urged by interest to let on hire his camels, as +<a name="p248" id="p248"></a><span class="pagenum">[248]</span> +the master of a ship of the ocean is urged by interest +to seek freight for his ship. And it is observed, +that the ferocious appearance among the +Arabs, (which is too often assumed,) subsides +in proportion to the intercourse they have with +merchants, who negociate with them for the +transport of their goods. Thus, at the <i>depôts</i> +for camels between the cultivated country and +the Desert, viz. at <i>Akka, Tatta, Ufran,</i> and +<i>Wedinoon</i>, the ferocity of the Arabs is greatly +lost in the commercial spirit and endeavour +to let their camels on hire to the merchants. +The Mograffra, the Woled Abbusebah, and +the Tejakant Arabs, therefore, who possess the +Sahara, from the shores of the Atlantic to the +confines of Timbuctoo, would act in concert +with the colony, and would have a joint interest +in promoting their commercial views. The Brabeesh +Arabs who receive, occasionally, tribute +from Timbuctoo, would also find it expedient to +promote the commerce of Sudan, and the prosperity +of Timbuctoo; both which would necessarily +be united to their own interest, and would +provide a demand for their camels.</p> + +<p>If the profits of this commerce, when once +established and secured to the British, were to +be cent. per cent., the whole would remain a +bonus to the colony. There would be no shereef +of Fezzan, or bashaw of Tripoli, to take their +share of the profits, in any shape, in exchange +for the privilege of being suffered to pass through +their country. But, on the contrary, the Arabs +<a name="p249" id="p249"></a><span class="pagenum">[249]</span> +of the Mograffra and other tribes would find it +so evidently their interest and advantage to be +friendly with us, that we might absolutely have +the entire command of the Desert, from the +shores of the Atlantic to the city of Timbuctoo, +which would eventually throw such a weight of +power into our hands, as to make even that city +itself, in a manner, tributary to us.</p> + +<p>A plan of this kind should be executed <i>upon +a grand national scale</i>, and be pursued with discretion +and perseverance.</p> + +<p>An attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo, through +Ashantee, and establish a commerce through +that country, might meet with temporary success; +but I apprehend that we should labour under +the same inconveniences, and be subject to the +same arbitrary imposts and exactions, whether +in the shape of duties, part of the profits, or +otherwise, as we should, by opening a communication +through Tripoli. There would be a +present or douceur to the king of Ashantee; +others to the princes of the adjoining territories; +and, finally, (taking the character of this king +to be as represented by the late traveller in that +country, Mr. Bowdich), might we not reasonably +anticipate that, on the first dispute respecting +the division of the profits, the king of +Ashantee would order all the English out of his +country, and, to terminate the dispute, plunder +them of their property? But, perhaps the establishment +of a colony in Ashantee, <i>conjoined</i> to +one in Sahara, might not be objectionable. We +<a name="p250" id="p250"></a><span class="pagenum">[250]</span> +should then have two routs to the grand emporium +of central Africa: if one failed, the +other would remain open for our countrymen +to recover their property and to return by; and +thus, in establishing a commercial intercourse +with the interior of Africa, through two routes, +we should secure, at the same time, our retreat, +by one of them, and not remain at the mercy +of the barbarous king of Ashantee, or any other +African potentate, who might be urged, from +jealousy or avarice, to sacrifice our people, when +once he had them in his power!</p> + +<p><a name="p251" id="p251"></a><span class="pagenum">[251]</span></p> +<br><br> +<h3>PROSPECTUS OF A PLAN</h3> + +<h4>FOR FORMING A</h4> + +<h3><i>NORTH AFRICAN OR SUDAN COMPANY</i></h3> + +<p>To be instituted for the purpose of establishing an extensive +Commerce with, and laying open to British Enterprise, +all the Interior Regions of North Africa.</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p class="mid">OBJECTS OF THE SOCIETY.</p> + +<p>1<i>st</i>. To lay open the interior regions of North +Africa to British enterprise--to supply those +vast and unexplored countries with British manufactures, +with East-India goods, and with +colonial produce.</p> + +<p>2<i>dly</i>, To encourage our manufactories, by +opening a new market calculated to improve the +revenue of the country, to provide employment +for the labouring poor, and to enrich the mercantile +community; <i>the genial influence of which +sources of prosperity will necessarily diffuse itself +through all classes</i>.</p> + +<p>3<i>dly</i>, To facilitate, through the medium of +commerce (<i>the only medium by which it can possibly +be effected</i>), the exploration of the interior +regions of Africa, (<i>which have remained to this +day a sealed book, notwithstanding the many adventurous +expeditions that have been undertaken</i>,) +by opening a communication with the natives +<a name="p252" id="p252"></a><span class="pagenum">[252]</span> +of that vast and little-known continent, and <span class="sc">by +calling to our aid the co-operation of +the native chiefs, by holding out to them +the benefits which they will derive from +commercial intercourse as a reward for +their assistance and exertions in promoting +this desirable Object</span>.</p> + +<p>For these purposes it is proposed--</p> + +<p>That the funds to be raised be one hundred +thousand pounds, in shares of one hundred +pounds each. Ten shares to constitute a director.</p> + +<p>The spot proposed to be fixed on as the point +of communication, and commercial depôt, between +Great Britain and the interior of Africa +is <span class="sc">safe and healthy</span>: it will afford a <i>direct +communication with Timbuctoo and the interior +regions of Sudan</i>, without being subject to the +uncertainty of securing the favour and protection +of the various sultans and sheiks of the respective +territories of the interior, through which the +merchants and traders may pass--a measure +which would have been indispensable in every +plan that has hitherto been suggested for the +discovery of those interesting regions.</p> + +<p>The plan now to be adopted, on the contrary, +will be subject to none of those impediments +and uncertainties; but the merchants and travellers +will pass through territories where they +need fear no hostility, but will be received with +hospitality and attention by the natives, who will +give them every assistance and accommodation +in their progress through their country.</p> + +<p><a name="p253" id="p253"></a><span class="pagenum">[253]</span></p> + +<p>Connected with this plan, a school for instructing +the British youth in African Arabic, +so as to initiate them in the rudiments of that +language previously to their departure for Africa, +might be established, under the direction of +<span class="sc">James Grey Jackson</span>, professor of African +Arabic, &c.</p> + +<p>The present scheme has been many years in +contemplation, but no favourable opportunity +of making it thus public having hitherto occurred, +it is now offered to the public, in consequence +of the energies lately manifested by +France and by America for African colonisation, +and also by Holland.</p> + +<p>The projectors, for the honour of their own +country, are anxious that Great Britain may not, +through supineness, suffer this important discovery +to be wrested from her by any foreign +power, but that she should <i>at least share the +glory</i> due to this important achievement, the +completion of which would <i>immortalize the prince +who should cherish it to its maturity</i>.</p> + +<p>Capitalists, and gentlemen resident in Great +Britain, desirous of further information on this +subject, may address themselves to <span class="sc">James Grey +Jackson</span>, whose residence, at any time, may be +known at Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, +and Brown, London.</p> + + +<p class="mid">TO THE BRITISH PUBLIC.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +London, 31st March, 1819. +</p><br><br> + +<p>The above plan is ingenuously, liberally, and +disinterestedly submitted to the consideration of +<a name="p254" id="p254"></a><span class="pagenum">[254]</span> +British capitalists and merchants of respectability. +The advantages to be derived from such +an establishment as is here contemplated, if not +evident to Great Britain, is clearly visible to +Holland, to France, and to America.</p> + +<p>The projector, therefore, without mentioning +the offers that have been made to him by a +foreign maritime power, and <i>without courting</i> the +suffrages of British merchants in support of this +plan, has it in contemplation, (<i>provided no attention +is paid to it in England</i>,) to lay this eligible +scheme open to a foreign power. If, therefore, the +projector should accept employment in this +undertaking from a foreign power, it will be in +the conviction, that <i>it is more to the interest of +mankind in general, and to Europe in particular</i>, +that this plan for opening an <i>extensive, lucrative, +and beneficial commerce with Africa</i>, (which would +necessarily lead to its civilisation,) should be +known to, and adopted by, <i>a foreign power</i>, than +that this vast and little-known continent should, +(to the indelible disgrace of civilised Europe,) +<i>still continue to remain</i> an useless and an undiscovered +country to the present generation!</p> + +<p class="rig"> +<span class="sc">James Grey Jackson</span></p><br><br> + +<p><i>Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome +of the Trade carried on by Great Britain and the +European States in the Mediterranean, indirectly with +Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depôt of North Africa, +and with other States of Sudan</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Marseilles</span>, Genoa, Leghorn, and other commercial +ports of France and Italy, as well as of +<a name="p255" id="p255"></a><span class="pagenum">[255]</span> +Spain, send to Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, and +Egypt, <i>for the markets of Sudan</i>, manufactured +silks, damask, brocade, velvets, raw silk, combs +of box and ivory, gold-thread, paper, manufactured +sugar, cochineal, and various other merchandise.</p> + +<p>Great Britain sends to the Barbary ports in +the Mediterranean, and to Mogodor on the +Atlantic Ocean (which are afterwards conveyed +to Timbuctoo), for distribution at the several +markets of Sudan--</p> + +<p><i>East India Goods, viz.</i>--Gum benjamin, +cassia, cinnamon, mace, nutmegs, cloves, ginger, +black pepper, Bengal silk, China silks, nankeens, +blue linens, long cloths, and muslins (mulls).</p> + +<p><i>West India Produce</i>.--Pimento, tobacco, +coffee, cocoa, and manufactured sugar.</p> + +<p><i>Linens</i>.--Dimities, plattilias, creas, rouans, +Britannias, cambrics, and Irish linens.</p> + +<p><i>Hardware</i>.--Iron nails, copper ditto, brass +ditto, sword blades, dagger ditto, guns, gunpowder, +knives, &c. &c.</p> + +<p><i>Cloths</i>.--Superfine, of plain brilliant colours, +not mixtures, and cassimeres. And various +other articles of merchandise.</p> + +<p>Immense quantities of salt are also sent to +Timbuctoo, which is for the most part collected +at the mines of Tishet and Shangareen, (see the +map of northern and central Africa, in the New +Supplement to the Encyclopaedia Britannica,) +through which the caravan would pass to Timbuctoo. +</p> +<p><a name="p256" id="p256"></a><span class="pagenum">[256]</span></p> + +<p>The following are the articles purchased by +the Moors and Arab traders, and are the returns +brought back to Barbary from Sudan; viz.</p> + +<p>Gold dust, and trinkets of pure Wangara +gold, of various fashions, of the manufacture of +Housa and Jinnie.--<i>B'Kore Sudan</i> (fumigation +of Sudan), a kind of frankincense highly +esteemed by the Africans. Ostrich feathers +(the finest in the world). Elephants' Teeth. +<i>Korkidan</i>, so called by the Arabs, being the +horns of the rhinoceros: these are a very costly +article, and are in high estimation among the +muselmen, for sword-hilts and dagger-handles. +<i>Guza Sarawie</i> (Grains of Paradise). Gum Copal +Assafoetida, and a great variety of drugs for +manufacturing uses, and various roots for dyeing. +Ebony. Camwood. Sandal wood. Indigo, +equal to that of Guatimala: to which may +be added, the command of the gum trade of +Senegal.</p> + +<p>All the foregoing merchandise being first +landed at Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, Algiers, +and Tetuan, and other Barbary ports in the +Mediterranean, <i>as well as at Mogodor on the +western coast of Africa</i>, are afterwards sold to +the Muhamedan merchants, who sell them with +a very good profit to other Moors. These goods +frequently go through three, four, and five +hands, before they reach the consumer in Sudan, +subject to a profit gained by each holder of from +twenty to thirty per cent.; the last purchaser, +who conveys them through the Desert, however, +<a name="p257" id="p257"></a><span class="pagenum">[257]</span> +expects, and generally obtains, from fifty to sixty +per cent. profit on them, to which he considers +himself entitled, from the fatigue and privations +of his passage through the Desert, during a +journey through a country, for the most part +barren, of above fifteen hundred miles in length; +through various kingdoms and principalities, +subject to a charge for (<i>statta</i>) convoy at the +exit and entrance of each respective state or +district on each side of the Sahara, as well as +in the Sahara itself.</p> + +<p>But, according to the plan here suggested to +the commercial community, all these various +articles, instead of passing through five several +hands, would now pass through only two hands, +viz. through those of the shippers in England, +and those of their agents established on <i>the +western coast of Africa</i>, who would sell them +directly to the Timbuctoo trader, which latter, +instead of having several principalities and kingdoms +to pass through (at the exit from each of +which, as well as at the entrance of them, he +would have a charge for protection or convoy, +called <i>statta</i>, levied on the goods), would have +no convoy-charge, or statta, to pay; he would +have but ten hundred, instead of fifteen or sixteen +hundred miles to go, being about two-thirds +of the distance of the road from Tunis or Tripoli, +through Fezzan, to Timbuctoo.</p> + +<p>N.B. There is an immense bank near the +contemplated depôt, or port (abounding in fish, +which now supplies the <i>wahs</i>, or cultivated +<a name="p258" id="p258"></a><span class="pagenum">[258]</span> +spots in the desert, as well as the territories on +the southern confines thereof), which produces +fish sufficient to supply the whole of the +interior of Africa, as well as the shores of the +Mediterranean, &c. &c.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Letter from Vasco de Gama, in elucidation of<br> +this Plan</i>.</p> + +<p class="sc"> +Sir, +</p> + +<p>The Society of Encouragement for National +Industry in France, has granted prizes for +various discoveries in the arts and sciences; but +I wish government, or some society of our own +country, would offer a liberal prize for the best +mode of colonising Africa, and for meliorating +the condition of the inhabitants of that vast and +little known continent. A well-digested plan +for the discovery of this continent might be followed +by the most desirable events. The efforts +of the African Association have, to say the least, +been lamentably disastrous; little good can be +anticipated from the efforts of solitary or +scientific travellers in a country where science +is not cultivated, and where the travellers know +little or nothing of the<a id="footnotetag173" name="footnotetag173"></a> +<a href="#footnote173"><sup class="sml">173</sup></a> general language of +<a name="p259" id="p259"></a><span class="pagenum">[259]</span> +Africa, or of the manners and dispositions of +the natives.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote173" +name="footnote173"></a><b>Footnote 173:</b><a href="#footnotetag173"> +(return) </a> The general language of North Africa is the Western +Arabic, with a knowledge of which language, a traveller +may make himself intelligible wherever he may go; either +in the negro countries of Sudan, in Egypt, Abyssinia, Sahara, +or Barbary.</blockquote> + +<p>A knowledge therefore of the <i>African Arabic</i> +appears indispensable to this great undertaking; +and it should seem that a commercial adventurer +is much more likely to obtain his object than a +scientific traveller, for this plain reason,--because +it is much easier to persuade the +Africans that we travel into their country for +the purposes of commerce and its result--<i>profit</i>, +than to persuade them that we are so anxious to +ascertain the course of their rivers!</p> + +<p>Accordingly, it was aptly observed by the +Negroes of Congo, when they learned that +Captain Tuckey came not to trade nor to make +war; <i>"What then come for? only to take walk +and make book?"</i></p> + +<p>I do not mean now to lay down a plan for +the colonisation of Africa, or for opening an +extensive commerce with that vast continent, +but I would suggest the propriety of the +method by which the East India Company +govern their immense territories. <i>I would wish +to see an African Company formed on an extensive +scale, with a large capital</i>. I am convinced +that such a company would be of more service +to the commerce of this country than the +present India trade, where the natives, <i>without +being in want</i> of our manufactures, surpass us in +ingenuity. But the Africans, on the contrary, +<i>are in want</i> of our manufactured goods, and +give immense sums for them. According to a +<a name="p260" id="p260"></a><span class="pagenum">[260]</span> +late author, who has given us the fullest description<a id="footnotetag174" name="footnotetag174"></a> +<a href="#footnote174"><sup class="sml">174</sup></a> +of Timbuctoo<a id="footnotetag175" name="footnotetag175"></a> +<a href="#footnote175"><sup class="sml">175</sup></a> and its vicinity, a <i>Plattilia</i> +is there worth fifty Mexico dollars, or twenty +<i>meezens of gold</i>, each meezen being worth two +and a half Mexico dollars; <i>a piece of Irish linen</i> +of ordinary quality, and measuring twenty-five +yards, is worth seventy-five Mexico dollars; and +a quintal of <i>loaf sugar</i> is worth one hundred +Mexico dollars. Now if we investigate the parsimonious +mode of traversing the Desert, we shall +find that a journey of 1500 English miles is +performed from Fas to Timbuctoo at the rate of +forty shillings sterling per quintal, so that loaf +sugar (a weighty and bulky article) can be +rendered from London at Timbuctoo through +Tetuan and Fas, including the expense of a +land-carriage of 1500 miles at about 6£. per +quintal, thus:</p> + +<pre> +Refined sugar on board in London for <i> s. d.</i> +per cwt. 70 0 + +Duty on importation in any part of +Marocco, ten per cent. 7 0 + +Freight, &c. five per cent. 3 6 + +Land carriage across the Desert on camels +to Timbuctoo 40 0 + ----- + s. 120 6 + ----- +</pre> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote174" +name="footnote174"></a><b>Footnote 174:</b><a href="#footnotetag174"> +(return) </a> See new Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, +article Africa, page 98.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote175" +name="footnote175"></a><b>Footnote 175:</b><a href="#footnotetag175"> +(return) </a> See the account of Timbuctoo appended to Jackson's +account of Marocco, published by Cadell and Davies, +London, Chap, 18.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p261" id="p261"></a><span class="pagenum">[261]</span></p> + +<p>So that if 100 lb. of loaf sugar rendered, at +Timbuctoo cost 120<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i> and sells there for 100 +Mexico dollars at 4<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. each, or for 22£. 5<i>s</i>. +there will result a profit of 270 per cent.</p> + +<p>The profit in fine goods, such as the linens +before mentioned, is still more considerable, not +being subject to so heavy a charge for carriage. +The immense quantity of<a id="footnotetag176" name="footnotetag176"></a> +<a href="#footnote176"><sup class="sml">176</sup></a> gold dust and gold +bars that would be brought from Timbuctoo, +Wangara, Gana, and other countries, in exchange +for this merchandise, would be incalculable, +and has, perhaps, never yet been contemplated +by Europeans!!--In the same work, +above quoted, 3d edition, page 289, will be +found a list of the various merchandise exportable +from Great Britain, which suit the market +of the interior of Africa or Sudan: and also a +list of the articles which we should receive in +return for those goods.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote176" +name="footnote176"></a><b>Footnote 176:</b><a href="#footnotetag176"> +(return) </a> The Kings, David and Solomon, extracted from Africa +to enrich the temple of Jerusalem upwards of 800,000,000£. +sterling, a sum sufficient to discharge the national debt; see +Commercial Magazine for May 1819, page 6.; which is eight +times as much gold as the mines of Brazil have produced +since their discovery in 1756. See Commercial Magazine +for the same month, page 44.</blockquote> + +<p>Plans to penetrate to the mart of Timbuctoo +(which would supply Housa, Wangara, Gana, +and other districts of Sudan with European +merchandize) have been formed; but if a treaty +of commerce were made with any of the Negro +kings, these plans would be subject to various +impediments.</p> +<p><a name="p262" id="p262"></a><span class="pagenum">[262]</span></p> + +<p>The goods, in passing through hostile territories, +(these sovereigns living in a state of continual +warfare with each other,) would be subject +to innumerable imposts; <i>it would therefore +be expedient to form a plan whereby the goods +should reach Timbuctoo through an eligible part of +the Desert</i>: but some persons who have been in +the habit of trading for gum to <i>Portandik</i>, have +declared the inhabitants of Sahara to be a +wild and savage race, untractable and not to be +civilised by commerce, or by any other means. +This I must beg leave to contradict: the Arabs +of Sahara, from their wandering habits, are certainly +wild, and <i>they are hostile to all who do +not understand their language</i>; but if two or +three Europeans capable of holding colloquial +intercourse with them, were to go and establish +a factory on their coast, and then suggest to +them the benefit <i>they would derive</i>, being the +<i>carriers</i> of such a trade as is here contemplated, +their ferocity would be transferred forthwith +into that virtue in the practice of which they +so eminently excel all other nations, <i>hospitality</i>; +and the most inviolable alliance might be formed +with such a people. I speak not from the +experience of books, but from an actual intercourse, +and from having passed many years of +my youth among them.</p> + +<p>An advantageous spot might be fixed upon +<a name="p263" id="p263"></a><span class="pagenum">[263]</span> +on the western coast, in an independent district, +where our alliance would be courted, from +which the Kafila<a id="footnotetag177" name="footnotetag177"></a> +<a href="#footnote177"><sup class="sml">177</sup></a> or Akkaba would have to +pass through only one tribe with perfect safety, +and subject to no impost whatever; neither +would they be subject to any duty on entering +the town of Timbuctoo, as they would enter at +the <i>Beb Sahara</i>, or gate of the Desert, which +<i>exempts them</i> from duty or impost.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote177" +name="footnote177"></a><b>Footnote 177:</b><a href="#footnotetag177"> +(return) </a> Caravan.</blockquote> + +<p>That civilisation would be the result of commerce, +and that the trade in slaves would decrease +with the increase of our commerce with +these people, there can be little doubt; and, +independent of the advantages of an extensive +commerce, the consolation would be great to +the Christian and to the Philosopher, of having +converted millions of brethren made in the perfection +of God's image, and endowed with +reason, from barbarism to civilisation, if not to +Christianity!!!</p> + +<p>Let us hope, then, that some of the intelligent +readers of your luminous and interesting pages +will direct their attention to this great national +object, and produce ah eligible and well-digested +plan for the cultivation of a mutual +intercourse <i>through the medium qf commerce with +Africa</i>, and for the civilisation of that hitherto +neglected continent.</p> + +<p class="sc"> +Vasco De Gama.</p> + +<p class="rig"><i>Eton, 28th May, 1819</i>. +</p> + +<p><a name="p264" id="p264"></a><span class="pagenum">[264]</span></p><br><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>On Commercial Intercourse with Africa</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">(TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.)</p> + +<p class="sc"> +Sir, +</p> + +<p>The plan of your correspondent, for opening +a commercial intercourse with the interior of +Africa, appears to me so direct and simple, that +I am only surprised it has not been thought of +before. The Moors are the merchants of Africa; +the chain of communication that runs from the +states of Barbary to the negro kingdoms, and +from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the +Red Sea. To judge of the humanity of these +people from the accounts of shipwrecked sailors, +whom they have dragged into slavery, and then +liberated for money, would be not less fallacious +than to estimate the character of the English +nation from the plunderers of the wrecks on +their coast. From such accounts, the name of +Moor has inspired us with horror; and Park's +detention at the camp of Ali, one of their chiefs, +has contributed to confirm it. Park, however, +so far from endeavouring to conciliate his captors, +endeavoured, by his own confession, to +appear as contemptible as possible in their eyes; +and yet, with this disadvantage, the greater part +of the miseries he endured proceeded from the +climate and the irritation of his own mind.</p> + +<p>The Arabs of Sahara are the carriers of merchandize +throughout North Africa, and the +Moors are in the constant habit of selling gum +to the French on the Senegal. The French say +<a name="p265" id="p265"></a><span class="pagenum">[265]</span> +they are perfidious; but they give no proof of it +that I have seen. I have met with a French traveller, +who owns that his countrymen deceive +them either in the weight or measure of the gum +they purchase.</p> + +<p>Bruce found a friend in every Moorish merchant, +and integrity and intelligence in all. +And where should these qualities be found in a +country like the interior of Africa, in which +learning has no place but among merchants?</p> + +<p>So much for the proposed carriers of English +goods to Timbuctoo. Now for the road. The +fertile parts of Africa are hot and humid, unwholesome +and dangerous; and the kings are +often at war with each other. Park experienced +both these evils; and the wonder was, not so +much that he perished on his second journey, as +that he returned from his first. The Desert is +dry and heathful. It is sprinkled with fertile +spots, which form a succession of known resting-places, +and the distance between each requires +a certain number of days to travel. The Moors +are at home in Sahara; and, when they go long +journeys, the fertile spots are their inns. The +road from the coast of Sahara is also the shortest +that has yet been pointed out to Timbuctoo.</p> + +<p>If the means of executing the plan appear sufficient, +it is not necessary to say any thing in +favour of the object: the exchange of British +manufactures for gold, speaks for itself. But +there is no time to be lost. The French settlement +of Galam is advantageously situated for +commerce with Timbuctoo: a Frenchman has +<a name="p266" id="p266"></a><span class="pagenum">[266]</span> +already travelled from Galam to that city, I believe +on a commercial speculation, and he has +returned safe.</p> + +<p class="sc"> +Catherine Hutton. +</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa</i>.</p> + +<p>When we consider the maritime strength of +Great Britain; her command of the ocean; the +vicinity to Europe of West Barbary, one of the +finest countries in the world; the rich and +valuable produce which is cultivated in this +country;--when we consider that our garrison of +Gibraltar is in its vicinage, and but a few hours' +sail from it, we are naturally astonished that our +communication with this country is so limited. +That we have less commercial communication +with Barbary, than we have with countries that +do not open to us any thing like the commercial +advantages that this country offers, though they +are thousands of miles from us. It appears relevant, +therefore, to inquire, whence originates this +impeded intercourse? There are two great +impediments to our free intercourse with +Sudan through Marocco: viz., a general ignorance +of the Arabic language, as spoken in the +latter country; and the repugnancy of the +Muhamedan religion to that of Christ. With +respect to the first of these impediments, it is +remarkable that this learned language is so +little known in Europe,--this language, the +most prevalent in the world, a language which +<a name="p267" id="p267"></a><span class="pagenum">[267]</span> +is spoken or understood almost without intermission +from the western shores of Africa on +the Atlantic ocean, to the confines of China,--a +language understood, wherever Muhamedans are +to be found, throughout all the populous and +commercial regions of Africa, from the Western +Ocean to the Red Sea, and from the Mediterranean +to the country of Kaffers,<a id="footnotetag178" name="footnotetag178"></a> +<a href="#footnote178"><sup class="sml">178</sup></a> in the vicinage +of the Cape of Good Hope. With respect to +the second of these impediments, the repugnancy +of the Muhamedan religion to that of +Christ, it may justly be observed, that this is +not really so great as we are apt to imagine; +the moral principles of Muhamedans being not +unlike those of the former Christians, being in +fact a composition of Hebrew and Christian +morality. They acknowledge Jesus Christ to +be a prophet, and tell us, that, in this respect, +they are on the safe side, as we impute no +Divine authority to Muhamed. But a most +violent repugnance to Christians has been propagated +by the (<i>Fakeers</i>) Muselmen saints, or holy +men. They have industriously circulated the +belief of an old superstitious prediction which +they have on record, viz. that the Christians will +invade the Muhamedan countries, take their +cities and towns, and establish the Christian religion +<a name="p268" id="p268"></a><span class="pagenum">[268]</span> +on the ruins of that of Muhamed, and +take possession of the country. These reports, +propagated, as before observed, by the (<i>Fakeers</i>) +Muhamedan saints, among the lower orders, +have kindled a high degree of rancour and +animosity, (equal to that which the Catholics +formerly indulged towards their protestant +brethren,) which will never be extinguished +until a friendly alliance and extensive commercial +intercourse be established with them; +which alone can soften this rancour and animosity +into peace and amity. This animosity has +been increased also by the rancorous anti-christian +disposition manifested towards these +people by the writings of Roman catholic +priests and others.<a id="footnotetag179" name="footnotetag179"></a> +<a href="#footnote179"><sup class="sml">179</sup></a> If these uncharitable opinions +of each other could be eradicated, the +blessings that would result to the Africans would +be incalculable; a reciprocal exchange of good +offices might pave the way to purchase of the +Emperor of Marocco the port of Agadeer or +Santa Cruz, aptly denominated, from its contiguity +to the Sahara (<i>Beb Sudan</i>) "the gate of +Sudan," which, in the hands of the English, would +be the key to the whole of the interior of Africa, +and an effectual link in our chain of communication +<a name="p269" id="p269"></a><span class="pagenum">[269]</span> +with the interior of that undiscovered +continent; it would moreover secure to us the +entire commerce of those extensive and populous +regions, to the exclusion of our Moorish competitors +of Cairo, Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, +Algiers, and other ports of Barbary, who supply +the people of Sudan with European merchandise +at the fourth, fifth, and sixth hand.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote178" +name="footnote178"></a><b>Footnote 178:</b><a href="#footnotetag178"> +(return) </a> <i>Kaffer (or Caffre</i>) is an Arabic word which signifies +infidels or unbelievers (in Muhamed); the very name has been +given by Muhamedans, and therefore it is to be presumed +that the Muhamedans approximate the countries contiguous +to the Cape.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote179" +name="footnote179"></a><b>Footnote 179:</b><a href="#footnotetag179"> +(return) </a> See Martin Martinius. Abraham Ecchellensis. Maccarius, +Theolog. Polemic. Peter Cevaller. Robert de Retz, +translator of the Koran. See also the support of this assertion +in Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, enlarged +edition, published by Cadell and Davies, Strand, from p. 196. +to 208.</blockquote> + +<p>The abolition of the slave-trade cannot be effected +until we shall have substituted some commerce +with the Negro countries, equivalent at +least, or that shall be more than equivalent to it, +otherwise the negro sovereigns of Sudan will +never be induced to relinquish so great a source +of profit. Every naval officer in His Majesty's +service knows, that if we were to have thirty +sail of the line continually off the coast of Guinea, +it would not be sufficient to annihilate this abominable +traffic, or to deter people from embarking +in a trade that yields such extraordinary +profits. This being admitted, as it certainly +will be by every intelligent man, it follows, that +the system now in operation by the British government +for the abolition of the slave-trade, +will be attended only with an unnecessary expense +to this country, without the possibility of +effecting the desired object; but, on the contrary, +judging from recent events, there is every +reason to presume, that this detestable commerce +will increase, as it has continued to increase, +these last two or three years, in spite of all our +operations to prevent it; the Spaniards alone +<a name="p270" id="p270"></a><span class="pagenum">[270]</span> +having imported into the island of Cuba more +slaves in 1818 and 1819, than in the four preceding +years. The result has been, that that +island has produced, in 1819, more than double +the produce of the former year; their waste +lands, accordingly, are in progressive cultivation, +and, if they go on thus improving, that island, +in a few years hence, will produce coffee and +sugar sufficient for the supply of all the markets +of Europe.</p> + +<p>Finally, Slavery will never give way to any +thing but civilisation; the civilisation of Africa +can never be accomplished but through a great +and extensive commercial intercourse, a commerce +that will <i>enrich the negroes, and enable +them, by a supply of arms, to contend with and +gain an ascendancy over their Muhamedan oppressors</i>, +who want no other pretext for attacking +them, than that of their being idolaters, which +idolatry, it is asserted, authorises the Muselman +to make them slaves. Thus, <i>the abolition +of slavery must depend on the Africans themselves</i>; +and although it is in our power to supply them +with the means for <i>their emancipation</i>, yet it is +absurd to suppose that we can effect it by our +naval operations. If all the great sovereigns of +Europe were to agree to make the trading in +slaves piracy, they would not prevent it. <span class="sc">We</span> +cannot emancipate them; <i>that only can be accomplished +by their own energy</i>, awakened in them +by commercial intercourse, and its accompanying +civilisation. +</p> +<p><a name="p271" id="p271"></a><span class="pagenum">[271]</span></p> + +<p>Much might be done if all the African societies +were to unite their interest, knowledge, and +abilities for this desired object. If the African +Company would unite their energies with the +African Association, and with the African Institution, +such an union would promote the civilisation +of the African continent, and the conversion +of the Negroes to Christianity.</p> + +<hr class="short"> +<br><br> + +<h3>ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOSQUES.</h3> + +<p>The architecture of this country is of the +Gothic character. The mosques are built somewhat +like our churches: the body of the +mosques are covered with green glazed tiles; +the steeples are invariably an exact square, the +sides being ten or twelve feet, not tapering as +those of Coventry, but the top having the same +dimensions as the base. At the top is erected a +smaller square, with a flag-staff similar to a +gallows, to which is suspended every day at +noon, a white flag, the signal of preparation for +prayers; but on Fridays, the Muhamedan Sabbath, +a dark-blue one is substituted for the same +purpose. Some of the mosques are paved with +white and black chequered marble, some are tessellated +pavements, consisting of white, blue, and +green glazed tiles, about two inches square, a very +pretty mode of paving, extremely clean, and +has a very cool appearance; others are terrassed, +which is lime and small stones beaten down +<a name="p272" id="p272"></a><span class="pagenum">[272]</span> +with wooden mallets. They excel in the art of +making terras. The houses are all flat roofed, +so as to resist the heaviest rains: the declivity +of the terrasses is so imperceptible, that it is just +sufficient to give the rains a tendency to the +great conduit or pipe that leads to the mitfere +underneath the house, which is underground, +and has a terras bottom, impervious to the +water. Here is collected water sufficient for the +family or household during the year; the lime +that washes into the mitfere from the terrassed +roof, purifies the water, and preserves it from +worms and other insects. They have no ornaments +in their mosques; but the place where +the Mufti or Fakeer reads prayers, is covered +with mats or carpets; the rest of the floor is +bare, and the respective individuals prostrate +themselves on the bare floor, or on an antelope's +or <i>Elhorreh</i><a id="footnotetag180" name="footnotetag180"></a> +<a href="#footnote180"><sup class="sml">180</sup></a> skin, or the skin of a lion or tiger, +prepared in a superior manner by the tanners +at Marocco, the leather of which is made soft +as silk, and white as snow.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote180" +name="footnote180"></a><b>Footnote 180:</b><a href="#footnotetag180"> +(return) </a> For a description of this curious animal, see Jackson's +Marocco, page 83, Chapter on Zoology.</blockquote> + +<p>The bodies of the dead are never laid in the +mosques or near them, but are invariably carried +out of the town, to some coba<a id="footnotetag181" name="footnotetag181"></a> +<a href="#footnote181"><sup class="sml">181</sup></a> in the vicinity. +<a name="p273" id="p273"></a><span class="pagenum">[273]</span> +The bodies of the dead are washed, and covered +with lawn, and placed on an oblong wooden +machine, resembling a box without a cover, +called a <i>kiffen;</i> it has four legs about six inches +long, to uphold it from the ground, and two +horizontal projections at each end, to place on +the shoulders of four men, generally the nearest +relations of the deceased, who thus carry the +body to the grave, chaunting with the whole company, +amounting sometimes to some hundreds, +<i>La Allah, ila Allah wa Muhamed Rassule +Allah</i>, "There is no God but God, and +Muhamed is the prophet of God." This +repetition may appear extraordinary to the +English reader; but let it be observed that the +Muhamedans never use the pronoun for the +name of the Omnipotent, but invariably the +noun. The body is taken out of the bier, and +laid in the ground, the face upwards, without +any coffin or box, the legs towards Mecca, and +then covered with earth, so that it might, at the +resurrection, rise with its eyes towards (<i>El +Kaaba</i>) Muhamed's mausoleum. No money is +paid for the ground, nor is any expense paid for +a monument: a stick or a stone stands erect at +the head, and another at the feet. If the deceased +<a name="p274" id="p274"></a><span class="pagenum">[274]</span> +lived a moral, inoffensive, and exemplary +life, the public, at its own expense, oftentimes +erects (<i>kaba</i>) a cubical building with a dome at +the top to the departed, and he is thence denominated +(<i>fakeer</i>) a saint.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote181" +name="footnote181"></a><b>Footnote 181:</b><a href="#footnotetag181"> +(return) </a> A coba is a cubical building, about forty or fifty feet +square, having a dome on the top, inhabited by a fakeer; +the ground adjacent to this building is consecrated for the +dead, but is never inclosed. The living reverence the dead +by never, riding over these grounds; but travellers, in passing +stop and repeat a fatha. When the ground has been consecrated +to the dead, and the <i>coba</i> has an inhabitant, who +must be a sanctified person, he immediately assumes the +name of fakeer or priest, and the building, and cemetery +attached to it, becomes a <i>zowia</i> or sanctuary.</blockquote> + +<p>The palaces of this country generally consist +of a perfect square wall, containing from two to +forty acres of land, or more; for the imperial +palace at Mequinas covers about two square +miles of ground. At each corner of the square +is a cubical building, with an angular top, +of green glazed tiles, having four windows, +one in each side; in the centre of the square +is the palace, surrounded by a colonnade +one or two stories high. The pavement is +either tessellated or of chequered marble; some +of the walls of the rooms are also tessellated +with arabesque, borders, the ceilings are +painted with gay colours, viz. scarlet, sky-blue, +green, yellow, and orange, in arabesque, and +some of them are very elegant. The houses +of the opulent are diminutive imitations +of the palaces. The house of (<i>the Talb Câduse</i>) +the minister of the Sultan Seedi Muhamed +ben Abd Allah at Marocco, is a building, +elegantly neat. Abd Rahamen ben Nassar's +house at Mogodor, is well deserving the investigation +of an European architect, and his +magnificent new house at Saffee, is a model of +a particular style of architecture. Some of the +houses of the princes and the military at +Mequinas are handsome buildings, and many of +<a name="p275" id="p275"></a><span class="pagenum">[275]</span> +the houses of the opulent merchants at Fas, +who have their commercial establishments at +Timbuctoo, and other countries of Sudan, are +extremely neat and truly unique, having beautiful +gardens in the interior, ornamented with +the choicest and most odoriferous flowers and +shrubs; with fountains of running water, clear +as crystal, delectable to behold in this warm +climate, and such as are not to be seen in any +part of Europe. +</p> +<p><a name="p276" id="p276"></a><span class="pagenum">[276]</span></p> +<br><br> +<h3>FRAGMENTS, NOTES,</h3> + +<h4>AND</h4> + +<h3>ANECDOTES;</h3> + +<p class="mid"><i>Illustrating the Nature and Character of the Country</i>.</p> +<hr class="short"> + +<p class="mid">NTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>In recording the following Anecdotes and Fragments +the naked truth is stated, without the embellishments +of language, or the labour of rhetoric, +which the wiser part of mankind have +always approved of as the most instructive way +of writing; and all such as are acquainted with +books will readily agree with me, that many authors +stretch, even to the prejudice of truth, +from an affectation of elegance of style.</p> + +<p>The following facts, therefore, will form the +materials for a history, rather than a history +itself.</p> + +<p>The study of the <i>language and customs of the +Arabs is the best comment upon the Old Testament</i>. +The language of the modern Jews is little to +be regarded; their dispersion into various nations, +having no fixed habitation, being <i>wholly</i> +<a name="p277" id="p277"></a><span class="pagenum">[277]</span> +addicted to their own interest, their conformation +to the respective customs of the various nations +through which they are dispersed; have +caused them, in a great measure, to forget their +ancient customs and original language, except +what is preserved in the Bible and in the exercise +of their religion. Whereas the Arabs have +continued in the constant possession of their +country many centuries, and are so tenacious +of their customs and habits, that they are, at +this day, the same men they were three thousand +years ago. Accordingly, many of their customs, +at this day, remind us of what happened among +their ancestors in the days of Abraham.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Trade with Sudan</i>.</p> + +<p>1795, June 14th. Two (<i>Akkabas</i>) accumulated +caravans of Gum Sudan, called in England +"Turkey<a id="footnotetag182" name="footnotetag182"></a> +<a href="#footnote182"><sup class="sml">182</sup></a> Gum Arabic," have reached the +Arab encampment of Dikna, not far from the +northern confines of the Sahara; and will be at +Santa Cruz, in the province of Suse, in a fortnight.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote182" +name="footnote182"></a><b>Footnote 182:</b><a href="#footnotetag182"> +(return) </a> This gum is conveyed from Sudan to Alexandria, in +Egypt; there it is shipped off for Smyrna, or Constantinople, +and from thence imported into England.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Wrecked Ships</i>.</p> + +<p>A large ship, supposed to be Spanish, bound +to Lima, has been wrecked near Cape Noon; +<a name="p278" id="p278"></a><span class="pagenum">[278]</span>the cargo consists of lace, silks, linens, superfine +cloths, and is estimated by the Jews, at Wedinoon, +to be worth half a million of dollars.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Wrecked Ships on the Coast</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">Extract of a Letter from James Jackson, and Co.<br> +at Mogodor, to their correspondents in London.<br> +January, 1801.</p> + +<p>The wine and dollars per the Perola de Setubal, +wrecked on the coast of Suse, have been +recovered from the Arabs, by Alkaid Hamo, +the governor of Santa Cruz; and we have just +received them safe by a boat. If this vessel had +been wrecked on the coast of Cornwall, it is +more than probable that the cargo would have +been plundered. We have presented the governor +with twenty dollars, for his extraordinary +energy, exertions, and great merit in the recovery +of the whole of this property.</p> + +<p>The Prosperous, Captain Driver, a southwhaler, +was wrecked near Cape Noon, in 1790; +the crew was redeemed by me, and brought to +my house at Santa Cruz, after being upwards +of two years in captivity in the Desert: and I +sent them all from Santa Cruz to Mogodor on +mules, where, after remaining about two months, +the Bull-dog sloop of war came down from +Gibraltar for them, and they were sent off to +her by the imperial order. +p. 279</p> +<p><a name="p279" id="p279"></a><span class="pagenum">[279]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Wrecked Sailors</i>.</p> + +<p>English seamen that are so unfortunate as to +be wrecked on the coast of Sahara, are generally +better treated than the French, Italian, or +Spanish, because there is a greater probability +of a ransom; and because it is well known that +the English admit no slaves in their own +country.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Timbuctoo Coffee</i>.</p> + +<p>Coffee grows spontaneously in the vicinage of +Timbuctoo, <i>south of the Nile Elabeed</i>. I sent +a quantity to Mr. James Willis, formerly Consul +for Senegambia: it was of a bitter taste, +which is the general character of this grain before +it is improved by cultivation.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Sand Baths</i>.</p> + +<p>The Arabs bury the body erect in sand, up to +the chin, as a remedy for several disorders, +particularly syphilis.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Civil War common in West Barbary</i>.</p> + +<p>In the provinces of Haha and Suse, particularly +in the mountainous districts, intestine wars +frequently prevail: kabyl against kabyl, village +against village, house against house, family +against family. In these lamentable wars, which +<a name="p280" id="p280"></a><span class="pagenum">[280]</span> +so continually disturb the peace of society, retaliation +is considered an incumbent duty on +every individual who may have lost a relation, +so that the embers of hostility are thus incessantly +fanned; and this lamentable revenge +pervades whole clans, to the utter destruction +of every humane and philanthropic propensity, +converting the human race to a degradation +below the beasts of the field.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Policy of the Servants of the Emperor</i>.</p> + +<p>The Bashaws, and others holding responsible +situations in the empire, are continually purchasing +a good name and good report at court, +by courtesy to and by feeing the ministers of +the Emperor to report favourably of them, +whenever opportunity may offer. Incredible +sums are sometimes expended in this way.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>El</i><a id="footnotetag183" name="footnotetag183"></a> +<a href="#footnote183"><sup class="sml">183</sup></a> <i>Wah El Grarbee, or the Western Oasis</i>.</p> + +<p>The prince, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother of +the reigning Emperor, Muley Soliman, purchased, +on his return from the pilgrimage to Mecca, +a domain in (Santariah<a id="footnotetag184" name="footnotetag184"></a> +<a href="#footnote184"><sup class="sml">184</sup></a>) the Oasis of Ammon +<a name="p281" id="p281"></a><span class="pagenum">[281]</span> +or Siwah, as a retreat; and being appointed by +his father Seedi Muhamed, viceroy of the province +of Suse<a id="footnotetag185" name="footnotetag185"></a> +<a href="#footnote185"><sup class="sml">185</sup></a>, he was enabled to give succour +to the Shelluhs, inhabitants of that province, +on their pilgrimage to Mecca, and to entertain +them with the comforts of hospitality on their +passage through the Desert. This was the more +agreeable to these Shelluhs, because, after +passing a long journey of some thousands of +miles through Sahara, they reached, at Santariah, +not only a territory yielding every comfort +and necessary of life, but a country wherein +their own prince had authority, and wherein +their own native language is spoken and understood.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote183" +name="footnote183"></a><b>Footnote 183:</b><a href="#footnotetag183"> +(return) </a> In the Lybian Desert there are three <i>Wahs</i> (or <i>Oasises</i>, +as we call them): the greater, called <i>El Wah El Kabeer</i>; +the lesser, called <i>El Wah Segrer</i>; and the Oasis of Ammon, +called <i>El Wah El Grarbie</i>, i. e. the Wah of the West.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote184" +name="footnote184"></a><b>Footnote 184:</b><a href="#footnotetag184"> +(return) </a> The Wah of the West is also called by the Mograbines +<i>Santariah</i>.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote185" +name="footnote185"></a><b>Footnote 185:</b><a href="#footnotetag185"> +(return) </a> See the map of West Barbary.</blockquote> + +<p>When this prince's father, the emperor Seedi +Muhamed died<a id="footnotetag186" name="footnotetag186"></a> +<a href="#footnote186"><sup class="sml">186</sup></a>, the prince Abdsalam engaged +Alkaid Hamed ben Abdsaddock, late governor +of Mogodor, to go to Santariah, and sell this domain +for him; which he accordingly did. It is +more than probable that the Shelluhs of Siwah +are an <i>emigration</i> from Suse.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote186" +name="footnote186"></a><b>Footnote 186:</b><a href="#footnotetag186"> +(return) </a> About twenty-eight years since.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Prostration, the etiquette of the Court of Marocco</i>.</p> + +<p>An ambassador from Great Britain was sent to +the court of Marocco, during the reign of Seedi +<a name="p282" id="p282"></a><span class="pagenum">[282]</span> +Muhamed, father of the present emperor, Soliman. +On his arrival at Fas, (where the court +was at that time held,) the (<i>Mule M'shoer</i>) +Master of the Audience, who was the (<i>Sherreef</i>) +Prince Muley Dris, came up to the ambassador +and informed him, that it was customary for all +persons coming into the imperial presence to +take off their shoes, and to prostrate themselves. +To these ceremonies the ambassador objected, +alleging that he was received by the king his +master with his shoes on; and that he presumed +the Emperor, on a proper representation being +made to him, would not exact from him greater +obedience than he paid to his own sovereign. +The master of the audience reported the interpretation +of the ambassador's remarks to his imperial +master. The emperor paused, and (insinuating +that the ambassador was somewhat presumptuous +in placing a Christian king on a par +with a Muselman emperor) commanded the +prince to dismiss the ambassador for that time, +till the following day. In the interim, the +Emperor urged the master of the audience to +make diligent inquiry how the Christians conducted +themselves in the act of prayer before +the Almighty God; and whether they then uncovered +their feet, and prostrated themselves, as +Muhamedans did. The morning following, the +master of audience procured the necessary information +respecting this point, and acquainted +the Emperor that the English Christians, like +<a name="p283" id="p283"></a><span class="pagenum">[283]</span> +the Jews, prayed erect; but that they uncovered +their heads, and bowed at the name of Jesus of +Nazareth. "Go, then," replied the emperor, +"and let the ambassador be presented to me +without uncovering his feet, and without prostration; +for I cannot require more obeisance +from a foreigner, than he himself pays to Almighty +God."</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Massacre of the Jews</i>, <i>and Attack on Algiers</i>.</p> + +<p>In the year 1806, when Algiers was attacked +by the Arabs of the mountains, and by the inhabitants +of the plains, the Jews of the city were +massacred. It was suggested to the present Emperor +of Marocco that a favourable opportunity +now offered to subdue Algiers, and add it to the +empire: but the Emperor replied, "That it was +wiser to secure and keep together all those provinces +that his father had left him, than to endeavour +by <i>uncertain and expensive</i> warfare to +extend his dominions, by invading a neighbouring +nation."</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Treaties with Muhamedan Princes</i>.</p> + +<p>Treaties of peace and commerce between the +Muselmen princes and Christian powers, are regarded +by the former no longer than it is expedient +to their convenience. Muselmen respect +<a name="p284" id="p284"></a><span class="pagenum">[284]</span> +treaties no longer than it is their apparent interest +so to do. When an ambassador once expostulated +with his imperial majesty for having infringed +on a treaty made, an emperor of Marocco +replied --"Dost thou think I am a Christian, +that I should be a <i>slave</i> to my word?"</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Berebbers of Zimurh Shelleh</i>.</p> + +<p>This kabyl of Berebbers inhabit the plains +west and south-west of Mequinas. They are a +fine race of men, well-grown, and good figures; +they have a noble presence, and their physiognomy +resembles the ancient Roman. The laws +of hospitality, however, are disregarded among +them: they will plunder travellers who sojourn +with them, whenever they have an opportunity.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>The European Merchants at Mogodor escape<br> +from Decapitation</i>.</p> + +<p>The late emperor, Muley Yezzid, proceeded +from Mequinas to Marocco, with an army of +thirty thousand cavalry, to take the field against +the rebellious Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw +of the province of Abda, acting conjointly +with the bashaw of the province of Duquella, +who had collected an army of eighty thousand +men, of which fifty thousand were horse. The +<a name="p285" id="p285"></a><span class="pagenum">[285]</span> +Emperor, on his arrival at Marocco, was exasperated +against the kabyls of the south; and was +informed that the merchants of Mogodor had +supplied his rebel subject, Abdrahaman, with +ammunition. Enraged at this report, which +the exasperated state of his mind prompted +him to believe, he issued an order to the Governor +of Mogodor, implicating the greater +part of the European merchants of that port +of high treason, and ordered their decapitation. +This order was brought by one Fenishe, a relation +of Tahar Fenishe; who had been, some +years before, ambassador from Marocco to the +court of St. James's. The Governor, however, +suspecting that the order had been issued in a +moment of irritation, delayed its execution, in +the hope that it might be countermanded; or, +in hope that the result of a battle would render +it unnecessary to be put in execution.--Soon +afterwards, news arrived at Mogodor that +the two armies had met, had fought, and the +Emperor had vanquished his antagonists, who +had more than double his force, but was himself +dangerously wounded. This induced the +governor still further to delay the execution; +having now ascertained that the order was obtained +by a stratagem of malicious and ill-disposed +people. The next day news came that +the Emperor suffered extremely from a ball in +the upper part of the thigh, which the surgeons +could not extract. The Emperor, in a fit of +<a name="p286" id="p286"></a><span class="pagenum">[286]</span> +frenzy, from pain or passion, took his (<i>kumaya</i>) +dagger, cut open the wound to the ball, and expired +soon after. Thus were the merchants of +Mogodor saved providentially from an untimely +death.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>The Emperor Muley Yezzid's Body disinterred</i>.</p> + +<p>When the united armies of Abda and Duquella +were vanquished and dispersed by the Imperial +troops, in the neighbourhood of Marocco, +the report became general that the Emperor was +wounded. It is asserted that several men in +ambush had orders to wait their opportunity to +fire at the Emperor, when he should approach; +and when the Emperor did approach the bush +wherein these men lay concealed, they all fired. +It appears, however, that only one shot had effect. +The Emperor finding himself wounded, +instead of being discouraged, was reanimated +to the combat, and entered into the midst of it; +a soldier by his side observed to him, that he +was wounded, and whilst expressing his hope +that it was not dangerous, the Emperor, with +one stroke of his sabre, cut off his head! Even +after the death of this redoubted warrior, the +people trembled, doubting the truth of his decease. +Abdrahaman went personally to Marocco +and had the body disinterred to ascertain the fact, +suspecting that the report of his death might be +a stratagem; but having ascertained it, he returned +<a name="p287" id="p287"></a><span class="pagenum">[287]</span> +to Saffy, and his brother Muley Esslemmah +was immediately proclaimed by Abdrahaman. +Doubts of the Emperor's death still pervaded +the minds of men: it was reported that he had +been seen in the Atlas Mountains, in Draha, in +Suse. At length a person somewhat resembling +him in person, appeared between Wedinoon +and Ait Bamaran (see the map): the panic +took; and men from all parts of the country, +who had known the Emperor, hastened to Wedinoon +to ascertain the fact. Many who were too +curious were shot by order of this pretender, to +prevent the possibility of their returning to give +notice of the imposture. The immense number +of persons who now believed him to be Yezzid +was incalculable; his party increased and +multiplied, and he soon had thousands of followers +who supported his cause. The infatuation +of the vulgar and the bulk of the community +was astounding; for the renowned Muley +Yezzid, like his Majesty George IV., was the +first horseman in his empire, and the most accomplished +gentleman: whereas Buhellesa<a id="footnotetag187" name="footnotetag187"></a> +<a href="#footnote187"><sup class="sml">187</sup></a>, for +so he was called in derision, was so bad a horseman +that he generally rode a mule.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote187" +name="footnote187"></a><b>Footnote 187:</b><a href="#footnotetag187"> +(return) </a> So called from his generally riding a mule, with a large +stuffed saddle, rising high before and behind, covering the +whole of the mule's back, and forming a very secure seat. +This enormous and ponderous saddle-mattras is called <i>Hellesa</i>; +and as the Pretender rode on it, he was called <i>Bû Hellesa</i>; +that is the father of a <i>Hellesa</i>.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p288" id="p288"></a><span class="pagenum">[288]</span></p> + +<p>This man was reported to be an adept in the +occult sciences; and it was both reported and +credited, that the occult art enabled him to +multiply corn and provision for the army to any +quantity he might want. I was established at +Santa Cruz, which was three days' horse-travelling +from Buhellesa's standard; the (<i>Shereef,</i>) +Prince Abdsalam, brother to Yezzid, was then +resident there, and Viceroy of Suse. It was +the Prince Abdsalam's desire to destroy this pretender; +for his army and followers exceeded +now thirty thousand men, the Prince sent to +Muhamed ben Delemy, khalif of Suse, and +sheik of the Duleim Arabs, whose castle was +about thirty miles south of Santa Cruz. Delemy +and the Prince were sworn friends: the latter +proposed to him to give battle to Buhellesa, +and so prevent the empire from being usurped. +Neither Delemy nor the Prince had funds to raise +an army; so that neither of them knew what +steps to take. <i>Delemy, however, with the true +spirit of a Bedouin Arab, supported his friend +in his adversity,</i> and promised to exert himself +to counteract the operations of the arch-hypocrite +Buhellesa. Collecting the sheiks of the +various kabyls of Suse, he made an energetic +harangue to them; and discussed with them +the expediency of their uniting together, to repel +the impostor. The sheiks were all loyal, and well +affected to Muley Abd Salam; whose government +of Suse, by his khaliff Delemy, added to +<a name="p289" id="p289"></a><span class="pagenum">[289]</span> +the hospitalities with which the Prince entertained +the people of Suse at his domain, the +<i>Wah el Grabie</i>, or the Oasis of Ammon, called +<i>Santariah</i>, ingratiated Muley Abd Salam so much +in their favour and esteem, that they all unanimously +(<i>passed l'âad</i><a id="footnotetag188" name="footnotetag188"></a> +<a href="#footnote188"><sup class="sml">188</sup></a>) joined hands, and determined, +each individually, to raise his respective +kabyl to support the cause of Muley Abd Salam. +In a short time they raised an army +among themselves of ten thousand horse, and +determined to attack Buhellesa, so soon as he +should begin to move forwards, and before he +should reach Terodant, in his way to Marocco; +for there he had a strong party, which would +augment his forces. The hero Delemy, who was +as valiant a soldier as Muley Yezzid himself, and +as expert and dextrous in the management of the +horse, determined therefore, with less than half +the force of his antagonist, to attack him, before +he should be able to gather more strength. The +army of the sheiks joined, and proceeded towards +Wedinoon. At night they learned that Buhellesa, +with an army of 22,000 men, mostly horse, having +<a name="p290" id="p290"></a><span class="pagenum">[290]</span> +been apprised of Delemy's preparations and +movements, had proceeded through Ait Bamaran +towards Shtuka, and that he intended to +attack Delemy's castle. On hearing this, the +army halted for an hour, and returned towards +Shtuka again. In the morning they came up +with Buhellesa, who was encamped about four +hours south of Delemy's castle. The march of +Delemy's troops, all hardy warriors and men of +valour, was so rapid, that Buhellesa was taken +by surprise. The battle lasted seven hours; +during which Delemy's brother was wounded +and unhorsed, in the midst of the enemy's +troops: but being unknown, and in a similar +dress with the rest, he recovered himself by +the assistance of some friends, sent to him by +his brother the khalif, and was enabled to rejoin +his own troops. Buhellesa was so hard pressed, +that he made his retreat into a house: on being +attacked there, his pistol missed fire, and he +was overcome. They immediately cut off his +head and his arms, when his army dispersed, +most of them making the best of their +way to Wedinoon. That same night, the man +of Shtuka, who first attacked Buhellesa, was +dispatched with his head and feet to Muley +Abd Salam, at Santa Cruz.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote188" +name="footnote188"></a><b>Footnote 188:</b><a href="#footnotetag188"> +(return) </a> The <i>L'aad</i> of the Arabs is a joining of hands, without +Shaking: the palms of the right hands of the parties coming +in contact with each other, and the thumbs over each other. +This is a solemn obligation among them; a calling God to +witness their resolution of mutual assistance, offensive and defensive; +a swearing to stand by each other till death; an +obligation that nothing can dissolve; such a pledge, that if a +man were to break it, he would be execrated and rejected +from society!</blockquote> + +<p>The reported approach of Buhellesa, with so +strong a force, had urged me to ship all the +property I could collect; and I was on the beach +early the following morning, directing the +<a name="p291" id="p291"></a><span class="pagenum">[291]</span> +shipment of my property; when taking a +ride along the beach, I met an Arab, with +a basket before him, and a foot sticking out +of it. "<i>Salam u alik</i>," I exclaimed, "And +what have you got there?"--"<i>Alik Salam</i>," +said the Arab, "I have got Buhellesa's head +and feet here: I killed him myself; and the +khalif Delemy has sent me with them to the +Prince. Dost thou think the Prince will reward +me?"--"Certainly," said I, "for such +an essential service." The Prince gave the +Arab one hundred duckets<a id="footnotetag189" name="footnotetag189"></a> +<a href="#footnote189"><sup class="sml">189</sup></a>; the guns were +fired; and the head and feet were hung over +an embrasure of the round battery, facing the +south. Thus terminated the career of Buhellesa.</p> + +<p>A short time after this, I was on a visit to +Delemy, and he accompanied me to the field +of battle; which was an undulating plain, not +unlike that of Waterloo: and the house to +which Buhellesa made his escape, was not unlike +the hotel de la Belle Alliance on the plains +of Waterloo, having, however, a flat roof.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote189" +name="footnote189"></a><b>Footnote 189:</b><a href="#footnotetag189"> +(return) </a> Worth 5<i>s.</i> each, but equal to 100<i>l</i>., or more, in that +country.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Shelluhs: their Revenge and Retaliation.</i></p> + +<p>A Shelluh, of the province of Suse, had +been a servant in the house of Mr. Hutchison, +<a name="p292" id="p292"></a><span class="pagenum">[292]</span> +British Consul at Mogodor fifteen years; but it +happened to be twenty years since a relation of +his, in Suse, had been killed, to whom he was +the next of kin but one: but the next of kin +dying, it devolved upon him to seek retaliation; +no opportunity, however, having occurred, he +determined to go to Suse to fulfil this his calling. +Now above twenty years had elapsed since +the death or murder of the relation of Bel Kossem, +the Consul's servant. This man, foregoing +the eligibility of his place, apprised the Consul +of his intention to leave him. Mr. Hutchison, +who esteemed him not a little for his long and +faithful services, was astonished to hear of his +determination to depart; and, apprehending +that he might want an increase of pay, he offered +to increase it: but Bel Kossem told him that an +imperious duty devolved on him to revenge the +blood of his ancestor. Accordingly he received +his wages, and departed forthwith for Suse. A +few months afterwards he found an opportunity +of killing his enemy, which being done, it was +expected that this Shelluh would now return to +Mogodor, and resume his place again; but by a +parity of reasoning, it devolved to the next of +kin of the man recently killed to seek revenge +for his murdered relation, but Bel Kossem, +to avoid the like fate, went into a distant country. +This duty of revenging death, is rigidly +pursued among the Shelluhs, so that one murder +often produces ten, or even twenty deaths; each +revenging his relation or next of kin. +</p> +<p><a name="p293" id="p293"></a><span class="pagenum">[293]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Travelling in Barbary.</i></p> + +<p>It is extremely difficult, whilst travelling in +this country, to ascertain from the natives the +distance of any (<i>douar</i>) encampment of Arabs: +the general answer to such a question is (<i>wahud +saa</i>), "an hour," but this is a very indefinite term, +being used for a distance from two to twelve +miles, or more; therefore, as these people have +no definite notions of time or distance, the only +way of ascertaining distances, is by knowing the +rate at which the caravan goes, which is a regular +pace, and consulting your watch; by this +means, the distance of any journey, however +long, may be accurately ascertained.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Anecdote displaying the African Character, and<br> +showing them to be now what they were anciently,<br> +under Jugurtha.</i></p> + +<p>A Muhamedan was sent to prison, for having +killed a man; and after remaining there some time, +it was expected that the Emperor's order would +come to have him shot, or to have his right hand +cut off, with which it was presumed he killed his +enemy. A friend of the prisoner, willing to liberate +him, that he might escape the punishment +that awaited him, engaged a person well acquainted +with the prison to procure his enlargement; +accordingly he promised him a sum of +<a name="p294" id="p294"></a><span class="pagenum">[294]</span> +money, if he would effect this purpose. It was +agreed that the money should be paid. The liberator +was then to prove to the man advancing +the money, that he had accomplished his purpose. +The night in which his liberation was to +be attempted was fixed on; ropes were ready to +enable the prisoner to escape over the prison-wall. +In the mean time the next of kin of the +man who had been murdered, sought the blood +of the prisoner, and was persuaded by the man +that had engaged to liberate the prisoner, +that the latter was not in prison, that he had +made his escape, but that the former would +undertake to put him in his power, so as to +enable him to accomplish his revenge. This +was agreed to, and accordingly a sum of money +was paid as a remuneration for the service. +All matters were arranged, and the person +who paid the money was desired to be on the +rock, near the prison, outside of the town +wall, at two o'clock in the morning, and +there he would find his enemy. The person +who made the first engagement was directed +to be at the same spot at three o'clock. +In the mean time the liberation was effected at +two o'clock, and the prisoner was informed that +his friend would meet him under the rock at +three o'clock, to conduct him to a place secure +from discovery. Soon after two o'clock, the +next of kin to the person whom the prisoner had +killed came and plunged a dagger into his heart; +<a name="p295" id="p295"></a><span class="pagenum">[295]</span> +afterwards came the other man, and saw the body +of his friend, whom he recognized. On expostulating +with the liberator, the latter replied, +"I have executed my engagement to liberate +your friend; I am entitled to my reward: what +has happened to him since his liberation is no +concern of mine; see you to that. But I should +inform you, that soon after his liberation, I saw +a man approach, and fearing that I was discovered, +I ran and hid myself under a rock. In a +short time I returned and found your friend weltering +in his blood. When I approached him, he +had just time before he expired to name to me his +murderer, who, he said, was the next of kin to the +man he had himself killed."--Note, The Shelluhs +consider it a duty incumbent on them, each, individually +to revenge the blood of their family; that +they are bound to seek the murderer, if possibly +he can be found. Such is their invariable attention +to this principle of revenging blood for +blood, that I have known instances of men who +have relinquished eligible appointments, to go +into distant countries, several years after a +murder has been committed, to revenge the +death of a relation, after becoming, by intervening +death, the next of kin of the murdered +person.</p> + +<p>The lamentable effects of this fatal retaliation +is such, that one death often produces twenty +murders, and afterwards involves whole kabyls +in intestine wars. +</p> +<p><a name="p296" id="p296"></a><span class="pagenum">[296]</span></p> +<p>It is remarkable, that the more duplicity they +use in these horrid transactions, the more merit +is ascribed to the agent; who is praised in proportion +to the extent of his ingenuity, or duplicity, +as was the case with the liberator above +mentioned.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Every Nation is required to use its own Costume.</i></p> + +<p>The Jews in West and South Barbary, have a +predilection for the European costume, in preference +to their own, the former being respected, +the latter not: moreover the character of a <i>merchant</i> +is highly respected by the Moors, and the +European dress is a kind of passport to a man as +such. One day, the Emperor seeing in the place +of audience, at a great distance, a gentleman, +apparently an European ambassador, ordered +the master of the audience to go and see who he +was, and what nation he represented; but it +being discovered that he was a Marocco Jew, +his scarlet and gold dress was torn from him, +and a <i>burnose</i>, (a large black cloak, the costume +of the Jews of the lower order,) was put over him, +when he was buffetted and kicked out of the place +of audience. The Emperor was exasperated at +this circumstance, which he considered a vain deception: +he ordered his secretary to write to all +the ports in his dominions, to desire that Jews +should wear the <i>burnose</i>, that Christians only +should wear the European costume, and Moors +<a name="p297" id="p297"></a><span class="pagenum">[297]</span> +and Arabs theirs; so that thus every individual +might be known by their respective dress. On +this occasion, an opulent Hebrew merchant at +Mogodor felt so much the insults he was exposed +to, from wearing the Jewish costume, that +he actually paid several thousand dollars to obtain +the privilege he had formerly enjoyed, +which, in consequence of his being an opulent +man, and a foreign merchant, was granted to +him.</p> + +<p>The name of this gentleman would here be +mentioned to gratify the curious; but as it might +give umbrage to his family, and as the intention +here is only to describe the character and manners +of the country, there is, I conceive no necessity +for stating personalities.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels<br> +under that Name.</i></p> + +<p>This extraordinary character visited Marocco +about the year 1805 or 1806. He pretended to +be a native of Aleppo, called in Arabic <i>Hellebee</i>, +and was known by the name of Seed Hellebee, +which signifies "the gentleman of Aleppo." +Europeans, as well as himself, since his return to +Europe, have converted this name into Ali Bey, +of the family of the Abassides. This gentleman +possessed abilities of no ordinary degree, he was +supplied with money in abundance by the Spanish +government. He had not been long at +<a name="p298" id="p298"></a><span class="pagenum">[298]</span> +Mogodor, when his munificence began to excite +the suspicion of the governor, as well as the admiration +and applause of the populace. Adopting +the costume of the country, he professed +himself to be a Muselman; and as a pretext for +not speaking the<a id="footnotetag190" name="footnotetag190"></a> +<a href="#footnote190"><sup class="sml">190</sup></a> Arabic language, he pretended +that he had gone from Aleppo, the place of his +nativity, to England when very young, and had +forgotten it. He had, as he declared, considerable +property in the Bank of England. Being +desirous of collecting all the information possible +respecting the country, he procured two young +Spanish renegado musicians, who played on the +guitar, and sung Arabic airs and songs, with +which he affected to be highly delighted, these +musicians, however, served his purpose in another +way; for, being apprehensive of creating +suspicion by direct enquiries, he prevailed on +these renegadoes to procure the information he +desired, by giving them from time to time several +questions to which they procured direct +answers, as reported by the natives.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote190" +name="footnote190"></a><b>Footnote 190:</b><a href="#footnotetag190"> +(return) </a> He afterwards learned the Arabic language, and I believe +spoke it tolerably well when he quitted this country and +proceeded to Mekka.</blockquote> + +<p>One day he gave a <i>fête champêtre</i> at (<i>L'arsa +Sultan</i>), the<a id="footnotetag191" name="footnotetag191"></a> +<a href="#footnote191"><sup class="sml">191</sup></a> Sultan's garden, situated near a +<a name="p299" id="p299"></a><span class="pagenum">[299]</span> +very picturesque rivulet, and contiguous to +springs of excellent water, which being collected +in a large tank, was conveyed by an aqueduct, +which extended the length of the garden, to immerge +or irrigate the various beds of flowers and +plants. On his return home, as he was crossing +the river near the village of Diabet, a Shelluh +shot a large fish as it was passing the shallows, +Seed Hellebee, or Seed Ali Bey admired the +dexterity of the Shelluh, (who, from his quickness, +was nicknamed Deib, i.e. the fox,) and +desired him to take the fish to his house at Mogodor, +which he accordingly did, and received +from Ali Bey's secretary a handful of dollars. +This Shelluh was a keen sportsman, and seldom +or never missed his shot: he generally accompanied +me in my shooting excursions, and he told +me this circumstance himself, adding, that Ali +Bey was such a liberal man, that, where any +other gentleman gave a dollar, he gave a handful. +It was in this manner that Ali Bey purchased +his popularity.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote191" +name="footnote191"></a><b>Footnote 191:</b><a href="#footnotetag191"> +(return) </a> This garden is in the province of Haha, about five miles +S.S.E. of Mogodor, and belongs to the European Commerce, +to whom it was presented by the Late Emperor Seedi Muhamed +ben Abdallah.</blockquote> + +<p>The governor of Mogodor, Alkaid Muhamed +ben Abdsaddock now began to suspect, not only +the faith of this <i>soi disant</i> Muhamedan, but that +he had some design unavowed; and desirous of +ascertaining to what nation of Christendom he +belonged, the governor engaged Monsieur Depras, +a respectable French merchant of Mogodor, +who understood several languages, to ascertain +if he was a Frenchman, and if not, who and what +<a name="p300" id="p300"></a><span class="pagenum">[300]</span> +he was. The governor, in order to enable M. +Depras to converse with Ali Bey, invited them +both to tea; this introduction being effected the +next day, Depras called on Ali Bey, and conversed +with him during an hour in the French language, +which he spoke so well, that the former +thought there was no doubt of his being a Frenchman. +But soon after this, the Spanish Consul was +announced, and being introduced, Seed Ali Bey +changed his discourse to Spanish, which he also +spoke so correctly, that Depras now altered his +opinion, and conceiving him to be a Spaniard, took +his leave. He then reported to the governor what +he had seen and heard, that he spoke French +and Spanish so fluently, that he really did not +know whether he was a Frenchman or a Spaniard.</p> + +<p>Ali Bey continued to live in a most sumptuous +and costly style, and afterwards resolved to visit +Marocco. On his journey thither, he was particularly +inquisitive respecting the population, +produce, names and residencies of the (sheiks) +chiefs of Haha and Shedma, through which provinces +he passed. On his arrival at Marocco, he +still continued his magnificent establishment and +sumptuous mode of living; distributing money +to the people bountifully, on the most trifling +occasions, which mode of conduct procured him +universal popularity among the lower orders. +This soon excited the suspicions of Alkaid Bushta, +the governor of Marocco, who ingenuously +<a name="p301" id="p301"></a><span class="pagenum">[301]</span> +informed him, that such liberality was fit only +for a Christian country, and that he was mistaken +if he flattered himself that it would be +tolerated at Marocco, and actually desired him +to adopt a different and a more parsimonious +system, if he wished to be quiet; alleging, that +his munificence exceeded that of his Imperial +Majesty, which was highly indecorous; but afterwards +finding little attention was paid to his +injunction, he published a decree throughout the +city, that any one that should be found asking +for, or receiving money from Ali Bey, should +have a very severe bastinado! After residing +some time at Marocco, he expressed a desire to +visit the Atlas mountains, which appear a few +miles east of Marocco, but which are, in fact, a +whole day's journey; their immense size and +height making them to appear so much nearer +than they really are. Ali Bey apprehending the +hostility of Alkaid Bushta, he procured an imperial +order to visit the Atlas, but Bushta opposed +it, and would not, he said, permit him, +he being governor of Marocco, without having +himself directly from the Emperor a permission +to that purpose. He then represented to the Emperor +the impolicy of allowing him to go and +examine that country; and the imperial order +was immediately countermanded.</p> + +<p>People now began to imagine that he was an +agent of Bonaparte; and their suspicion that he +was a Christian spread far and near. It was discovered +<a name="p302" id="p302"></a><span class="pagenum">[302]</span> +also that he had corns on his feet, excrescences +unknown to Muselmen, whose shoes +are made tight over the instep, and loose over +the toes, so that the latter being unconfined and +at liberty, they never have corns.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding all these suspicions, the courtesy +and suavity of the manners of Ali Bey had +such influence on the imperial mind, that Muley +Soliman gave him a beautiful garden to reside +in, wherein there was a (<i>kôba</i>) pavilion. Ali +Bey, finding his influence considerable, erected +with architectural taste several edifices, suited, +as he thought, to the imperial <i>gusto</i>, in which +he succeeded so well that his Imperial Majesty, +when he returned the next year to Marocco, resided +almost exclusively in one of the pavilions +which he had erected.</p> + +<p>The splendour of the imperial favour did not +however continue long; for Ali Bey began now +to be suspected by the Emperor himself, and it +was bruited that his renegadoes had acted +treacherously towards him.</p> + +<p>Ali Bey's knowledge of astronomy was peculiarly +gratifying to the Emperor. He could not +altogether withdraw from him his attention. The +Emperor urged him to take unto himself a wife, +and become an useful member of society; but Ali +objected, alleging various motives for refusing. +He was however at length prevailed on to comply +with the imperial injunction, and the Emperor +gave him a young girl to marry. It was +<a name="p303" id="p303"></a><span class="pagenum">[303]</span> +anticipated that his new wife was a political one, +and would betray him to be an uncircumcised +dog. The wife, however, became extremely attached +to him, and no information could be procured +from her to favour the plot that had been +laid for him. Various suspicions having increased +respecting him, the Emperor finally resolved +that he should quit his territory; and an +order was issued that himself, his wife, and slaves +should be escorted to the port of L'Araich, and +there embark for Europe. When the military +guard, however, had reached the port of L'Araich, +the boat being ready, Ali Bey was desired to +embark, when, not suspecting any stratagem, +the boatmen pushed off, leaving his disconsolate +wife on the beach, bewailing his abrupt departure. +The lady appeared deeply affected with +this sudden and unexpected separation; and +jumping out of the litter tore her dishevelled +hair, and distributed it to the winds, and with +loud shrieks, which pierced the air, demonstrated +to him how sorely she lamented his premature +departure, and violent separation. His principal +slave was sold, by order of the Emperor's minister, +to Seed Abdel'mjeed Buhellel, a merchant +of Fas, who was lately in London, and the money +was given to his wife.</p> + +<p>During his residence at Fas, he predicted an +eclipse, and, having foretold to the people of that +city, that it would happen at such a time, they +waited for the event with considerable curiosity. +<a name="p304" id="p304"></a><span class="pagenum">[304]</span> +Now his knowledge of futurity had spread abroad +with demonstrations of amazement; the eclipse +happened precisely at the time he had predicted, +which established his fame as an (<i>alem min alem</i>), +a man wiser than the wise.</p> + +<p>During the latter part of his residence in West +Barbary, a report prevailed that Bonaparte was +preparing an immense army to invade and subjugate +the country. Ali Bey was not only suspected +to be his secret agent, but some persons +were even ridiculous enough to declare that he +was Bonaparte himself in disguise; and accordingly +he was denominated <i>Parte</i>, for they would +not add <i>Bona</i>, as that word signifies good, in the +<i>lingua franca</i> of Barbary, and Bonaparte, they +said was not good, but a devil incarnate; so +they called him Parte. Last year I met in +London the Moor who had purchased Ali Bey's +slave, and he told me that his son by the before-mentioned +wife lives at Fas; that he is a very +amiable and intelligent youth, about fifteen or +sixteen years of age; and that he is very poor, +and would have starved, but for the charity and +protection of the highly respected fakeer of the +city of Fas, Muley Dris, under whose roof he +resides, and is indebted to him for protection +and patronage. This man would be an acquisition +to the African Association, and means +might be adopted to engage him in their service +to explore Sudan. +</p> +<p><a name="p305" id="p305"></a><span class="pagenum">[305]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>The Emperor's Attack of Diminet, in the Atlas</i>.</p> + +<p>The emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah +levied a powerful army, and took the field against +Diminet, in the mountains of Atlas, east of Marocco. +The people of Diminet, and the territory +of Berebbers, east of that country, had also +levied a strong force to defend themselves. +The Diminets were taken by surprise; for +they had not had intimation of an attack from +Marocco. The Emperor himself, with a few attendants +disguised in the Berebber dress, advanced +a few miles ahead of the army. A party +of mountaineers had received orders from their +sheik, (when the latter was informed that the +Emperor's army was coming against them,) to +seek the Emperor, and endeavour to kill him. +They mistook the Emperor and his party for Berebbers, +as His Majesty spoke the language correctly, +and had in the early part of his life lived +among them. "Where is the Emperor's guard?" +the mountaineers enquired; "for we are in search +of them: we hear he is coming to attack us, in +our inaccessible mountains; but we will be beforehand +with him, and dispatch him before he reaches +us. Dost thou know where he is, or where his +guard is." "We do know," replied the Emperor; +"for, about an hour behind us, we passed a few +men on horseback, among whom was the Emperor; +but the army is a long way behind: if you +make speed, you will soon pass him, and it will +be an easy matter for you to put the whole party +<a name="p306" id="p306"></a><span class="pagenum">[306]</span> +to the sword, for they are not a dozen altogether." +The Berebbers, elated with this news, communicated +from a party whom they mistook for brethren +of the neighbouring kabyl, rode off at +speed to seek their enemy, and in a short time +found themselves surrounded by the Emperor's +army, who were scattered about in ambush. +These Berebbers were all secured, and were +threatened with torture if they would not +discover where the army of their brethren +was, and what was their plan. The party +discovered the plan and the place of their encampment, +which was not far off in recesses +of the mountain, and received a promise of remuneration +if found correct. By this discovery, +the imperial army was enabled to surprise the +rebels; the latter were dispersed, and their houses +burned. Thus were they prevented from <i>harassing</i> +the Emperor's army, which is their ordinary +mode of warfare. To subjugate these people +would be impossible: it has often been attempted, +but never succeeded. The only lien +the Emperor can get of them is, by having at +court about his person their sheik, whom he then +makes answerable for the obedience of the +kabyl.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Moral Justice</i>.</p> + +<p>The imperial army being encamped in +Temsena, on the confines of Tedla, (see the +map,) an Arab chieftain found that a friend +<a name="p307" id="p307"></a><span class="pagenum">[307]</span> +of the Emperor came into his <i>keyma</i><a id="footnotetag192" name="footnotetag192"></a> +<a href="#footnote192"><sup class="sml">192</sup></a> at night, +and took liberties with his wife. The Arab +suspected that he was (<i>shereef</i>) a prince, and +therefore did not dare to kill him, but preferred +a complaint to the Emperor. The Emperor +was vexed to hear of such a gross breach of +hospitality, and asked what time he made his +visits? "At one hour after midnight," the Arab +replied. Then, said the Emperor, "when he comes, +do you let me know by giving the watch-word +to this man, and he will then know what to do; +and depend thou on my seeing justice done to +thee for the aggression." The marauder came; +the Arab repaired to the guard of the imperial +tent, and gave the word; the guard apprised the +emperor, as he was directed, who personally repaired +to the tent of the Arab, and, being convinced +of the fact, ran the man through with +his lance; this was done without a light. The +body was brought before the tent, and it was +discovered to be an officer of the imperial guard. +The Emperor, on seeing that it was not a shereef +(a prince) prostrated himself in fervent prayer +for a considerable time. The courtiers who were +all assembled by this time to witness this extraordinary +occurrence, wondered what could induce +the Emperor to be so fervent in prayer; +which his majesty observing, told them, "that +he went alone to the tent, thinking that nobody +<a name="p308" id="p308"></a><span class="pagenum">[308]</span> +but a shereef would have dared to commit such +a breach of hospitality, in so open a manner; +therefore he killed him without having a light, +lest, on discovering him to be a prince, personal +affection might give way to justice; but that +when he discovered that it was not a relation, he +returned thanks to God Almighty, that, in his +determination to have justice administered, he +had not killed his own son!"</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote192" +name="footnote192"></a><b>Footnote 192:</b><a href="#footnotetag192"> +(return) </a> <i>Keyma</i> is the name for an Arab's tent; they are made +of goats' hair, and are black.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers of +Atlas</i>.</p> + +<p>March 10, 1797. The Sultan Soliman proceeds +with a powerful army against the warlike province +of Shawiya, the rebellious Arabs' retreat. +The imperial army takes some of the women +who are renowned for personal charms. The +army can get no food; and, being in danger of +starving, returns to Salee. The Arabs promise +submission, in hopes of having the women restored; +but the Emperor's officers violate them. +The Arabs swear vengeance (<i>alia l'imin</i><a id="footnotetag193" name="footnotetag193"></a> +<a href="#footnote193"><sup class="sml">193</sup></a>) by +their right hand. The emperor attacks them +again, is repulsed, and returns to Fas.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote193" +name="footnote193"></a><b>Footnote 193:</b><a href="#footnotetag193"> +(return) </a> <i>Alia l'imin</i>, swearing by the right hand, is a sacred +oath; and those who take it will not swerve from its obligation, +which is peremptory.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans</i>.</p> + +<p>One of the Emperor's ministers, when an +English fleet was cruising off Salee, and just +<a name="p309" id="p309"></a><span class="pagenum">[309]</span> +after some impost had been levied on the merchandise +already purchased and warehoused by +the Christian merchants, suggested the impolicy +at that moment, of harsh measures against Europeans: +the Emperor, in a jocose manner, asked +what harm he could suffer from the fleets of +Europeans? "They could destroy your Imperial +Majesty's ports," replied the minister. +"Then I would build them again for one-half +what it would cost them to destroy them. But +if they dared to do that, I could retaliate, by +sending out my cruisers to take their trading +ships, which would so increase the premiums of +insurance (for the (<i>kaffers</i>) infidels insure all +things on earth, trusting nothing to God<a id="footnotetag194" name="footnotetag194"></a> +<a href="#footnote194"><sup class="sml">194</sup></a>), that +they would be glad to sue for peace again."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote194" +name="footnote194"></a><b>Footnote 194:</b><a href="#footnotetag194"> +(return) </a> The Muhamedans abuse the Christians for their mistrust +of Providence, exemplified in their insuring ships, +merchandise, &c.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Political Deception</i>.</p> + +<p>When an embassy is going to the Emperor, +the alkaid of the escort endeavours to make the +present, which necessarily accompanies every +embassy, as bulky and conspicuous as possible, +that the Arabs of the kabyls through which they +pass, may be dazzled and astounded with the +great appearance of the presents, which the +alkaid proclaims to consist chiefly of money, or +treasure. The Arabs accordingly observed, on +Mr. Matra's (the British consul) presents, that +<a name="p310" id="p310"></a><span class="pagenum">[310]</span> +the English, who had conquered Bonaparte in +Egypt, and were masters of the ocean and seas, +yet were tributary to the Sultan. This idea is +industriously propagated by the officers of the +Emperor's court. "Thinkest thou," they ohserved, +"that these Christians give such large +presents with a free-will? Certainly not! They +are compelled to do so. The (<i>Romee</i>) Europeans +are too fond of money to give it away in such +loads,--even the English, thou seest, are tributary +to the Seed."<a id="footnotetag195" name="footnotetag195"></a> +<a href="#footnote195"><sup class="sml">195</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote195" +name="footnote195"></a><b>Footnote 195:</b><a href="#footnotetag195"> +(return) </a> A higher title among the <i>true Arabs</i> than Emperor: it +implies conjointly, Emperor, Father of the People, Protector, +and Brother.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Etiquette of the Court of Marocco</i>.</p> + +<p>The European commerce of Mogodor went +to pay their respects to the Emperor Seedi Muhamed, +on his arrival, from Fas, at Marocco, as +is customary. The Emperor's son, Muley El +Mamune, was master of the audience, and ordered +the commerce to advance into the imperial +presence; and standing barefooted, as is the +custom before the Emperor, he requested the +merchants to take off their shoes, as <i>he</i> had +done; but they expostulated, and said it was +not their custom. The Prince, however, stopped +them, and would not allow them to approach +the imperial presence without first submitting +to this ceremony. Seedi Muhamed, observing +the impediment, and knowing the cause, but +<a name="p311" id="p311"></a><span class="pagenum">[311]</span> +willing at the same time to initiate the young +prince in the custom of foreign countries, called +his son to him, and said, "What do muselmen +do, when they enter the <i>Jamaa</i>?"<a id="footnotetag196" name="footnotetag196"></a> +<a href="#footnote196"><sup class="sml">196</sup></a> "Revere +the holy ground, by entering barefooted," replied +the prince.--"And what do the Christians, +when they enter their church?"--"They take +off their hats," rejoined the Prince. (<i>Allah e +berk Amer Seedi,</i><a id="footnotetag197" name="footnotetag197"></a> +<a href="#footnote197"><sup class="sml">197</sup></a>) "God bless your Majesty's +life."--"Then, what would you more of these +my merchants, than that they pay me, even the +same respect that they pay when they pray to +<i>Allah</i>. Let them approach uncovered, with +their shoes on, which they never take off, but +to go to bed to rest".</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote196" +name="footnote196"></a><b>Footnote 196:</b><a href="#footnotetag196"> +(return) </a> An Arabic or Korannick word, signifying, the congregation +of prayer, or mosque.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote197" +name="footnote197"></a><b>Footnote 197:</b><a href="#footnotetag197"> +(return) </a> A term invariably used at court, in addressing the +Emperor.</blockquote> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p>The province of Ait Atter, or the Atterites, +in Lower Suse, is considered as an independent +province, and it pays no tribute. They have a +great dislike to <i>kadis</i><a id="footnotetag198" name="footnotetag198"></a> +<a href="#footnote198"><sup class="sml">198</sup></a>, <i>talbs</i>, and attornies, alleging +that they only increase disputes between +man and man, which is not at all necessary; all +disputes are, therefore, decided by the sheik, +who is not a logical wrangler, but decides according +<a name="p312" id="p312"></a><span class="pagenum">[312]</span> +to the simplest manner. The following +decree of their sheik is on record:--</p> + +<p>"Four men conjointly bought a mule, which +for elucidation, we will call A, B, C, and D: +each claimed a leg. D's leg was the off-hind +one. In a few days this leg began to swell: it +was agreed to cure it by (<i>el keeh</i>) burning it +with a hot iron, (a common remedy in this +country.) This done, the mule was turned out, +and went into a field of barley. Some spark was +attached to the hoof, and set fire to the corn, +which was consumed. The proprietors of the +barley applied to the sheik for justice; and A, +B, C, and D, the owners of the mule, were +summoned to appear. The sheik, finding the +leg which caused the barley to be burnt, belonged +to D, ordered him to pay the value of the +barley. D expostulated, and maintained that he +had no right to pay; for, if it had not been for +A, B, and C's portions of the mule, the barley +would have remained. "How so?" replied the +sheik. "Because," quoth D, "the leg which +belongs to me cannot touch the ground; but it +was brought to the corn-field by the legs of A, +B, and C, which were the efficient cause of the +ignition of the barley. The sheik reversed his +decree, and ordered A, B, and C to pay the +damage, and D got off without expense.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote198" +name="footnote198"></a><b>Footnote 198:</b><a href="#footnotetag198"> +(return) </a> <i>Kadis</i>, i.e. judges. <i>Talbs</i>, i.e. record writers. <i>Kadi</i> is +generally spelt by the Europeans of the south <i>Cadi</i>, because +they have no K in their alphabet: the Arabs have no C; the +letter is <i>Kaf</i> or K, not C.</blockquote> + + +<p><a name="p313" id="p313"></a><span class="pagenum">[313]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Customs of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas, viz.><br> +of Idaultit</i> (<i>in Lower Suse</i>.)</p> + +<p>The mountains of Idaultit are inhabited by a +courageous and powerful people, strict to their +honour and word, unlike their neighbours of +Elala. They make verbal contracts between +themselves, and never go to law, or record their +contracts or agreements, trusting implicitly to +each other's faith and honour. If a man goes to +this country to claim a debt due, he cannot receive +it while there, but must first leave the country, +and trust to the integrity of the Idaultitee, +who will surely pay when convenient, but cannot +bear compulsion or restraint. They do not acknowledge +any sultan, but have a divan of their +own, called <i>Eljma</i>, who settle all disputes between +man and man. These people cultivate the plains, +when there is no khalif in Suse; but when there +is, they retire to the fastnesses in their mountains, +and defy the arm of power; satisfying +themselves with the produce of the mountains.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Connubial Customs</i>.</p> + +<p>The (<i>shereef</i>) Prince Muley Bryhim, son of +the present Emperor Soliman, was married to the +daughter of the bashaw Abdrahaman ben Nassar, +who was powerful and rebellious, and prevented +the Emperor for some time from proceeding to +the south. This couple was married in 1803. +The bashaw died the same year; and in 1805 +<a name="p314" id="p314"></a><span class="pagenum">[314]</span> +she was divorced, and sent by the Emperor to +Mogodor, with orders to a sheik of Shedma to +marry her, it being considered a degradation +for a prince to be united to the daughter of a +rebellious subject. This happened in January, +1806. The widow of the late Prince Muley +Abdrahaman, who rebelled against his father, +and who was elder brother to the Emperor Soliman, +has been recently sent by the Emperor to +Bu Azar, a negro bashaw, and governor of the +city of Terodant, in Suse, to marry her. These +marriages are promoted by the royal decree, to +prevent the females from contaminating the royal +blood by illicit connection, if they remain divorced, +without a new husband.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Political Duplicity</i>.</p> + +<p>A fakeer having interceded in behalf of a +state prisoner, his friend, who was confined in +the island of Mogodor (the state prison of the +empire, except for princes, who are sent to +Tafilelt), the Emperor assured him he would release +him; and urged the fakeer to proceed to +Mogodor, and wait there his Majesty's arrival. +The fakeer departed, and soon after his arrival +at Mogodor, he learned that the Emperor was +not going there; but the alkaid of Mogodor +showed him a letter from the Emperor, ordering +him to retain the prisoner in safe keeping, and +not attend to what the fakeer should say. This +system of breaking engagements and promises, +is too often denominated policy. "Dost thou +<a name="p315" id="p315"></a><span class="pagenum">[315]</span> +think I am a Christian," said an emperor to a +prince who was expostulating with him for not +fulfilling his engagements,--"Dost thou think I +am a Christian, to be a slave to my word?"</p> + +<p>Senor P. a Spanish merchant, received a letter +from the Emperor, directed to the (<i>alkaid</i>) governor +of Rabat, ordering him to show Senor P. +every attention, and to assist him if he should +be desirous of establishing a house at Rabat. +Senor P. left the court at Mequinas, well satisfied +with his letter; but a few days after his +arrival, the alkaid told him he must embark +and quit the country in twenty-four hours, +by the Emperor's order, which he showed to +Senor P. who could read Arabic. He was +obliged to embark immediately.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco</i>.</p> + +<p>If the Emperor should enquire about any person +that has recently died, it is not the etiquette +to mention the word "death,"--a muselmen is +supposed never to die;--the answer is <i>Ufah +Ameruh</i>, "his destiny is closed," or "he has +completed his destiny." To which the following +answer is invariably given--<i>Allah ê Erhammoh</i>, +"God be merciful to him." If a Jew's +death is announced to any muselman prince, +fakeer, or alkaid, the expression is, <i>Maat +hashak asseedi</i>, "He is dead, Sir." <i>Ashak</i> is +an Arabic idiom, the exact meaning of which +cannot easily be conveyed in English; but it +may be assimilated to--"Pardon me for mentioning +<a name="p316" id="p316"></a><span class="pagenum">[316]</span> +in your presence a name contemptible +or gross (as Jew)." Thus, for further elucidation +to the enquirer after the peculiarities of language, +<i>Kie 'tkillem ma el Kaba hashak asseedi,</i>--"He +is talking with a prostitute--your pardon, +Sir, for the grossness of the expression."</p> + +<p>If a man goes to the alkaid, to make a +complaint against any one for doing any indecent +act, and in relating the circumstance +he omits the word <i>hashak asseedi</i>, the persons +present will interrupt him thus,--<i>Kul hashak +b'adda</i>, "Say <i>hashak</i> before you proceed." +Blood, dung, dirt, pimp, procuress, prostitute, +traitor, &c. &c. are words that (in correct company) +are invariably followed by the qualifying +word <i>hashak</i>.</p> + +<p>If a Christian is dead, the expression is <i>Mat +el kaffer, or Mat el karan, or Mat bel karan</i>, +"The infidel is dead," "the cuckold, or the +son of a cuckold is dead."</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Food</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Kuscasoe</i> is, flour moistened with water, and +granulated with the hand to the size of partridge-shot. +It is then put into a steamer uncovered, +under which fowls, or mutton, and vegetables, +such as onions, and turnips, are put to boil: +when the steam is seen to pass through the +<i>kuscasoe</i> it is taken off and shook in a bason, +to prevent the adhesion of the grains; and then +put in the steamer again, and steamed a second +time. When it is taken off, some butter, +<a name="p317" id="p317"></a><span class="pagenum">[317]</span> +salt, pepper, and saffron, are mixed with it, and +it is served up in a large bowl. The top is garnished +with the fowl or mutton, and the onions +and turnips. When the saffron has made it the +colour of straw, it has received the proper quota. +This is, when properly cooked, a very palatable +and nutritious dish.</p> + +<p><i>Hassua</i> is gruel boiled, and then left over the +fire two hours. It is made with barley not ground +into flour, but into small particles the size of +sparrow-shot. It is a very salubrious food for +breakfast, insomuch that they have a proverb +which intimates that physicians need never go +to those countries wherein the inhabitants break +their fast with <i>hassua</i>.</p> + +<p><i>El Hasseeda</i> is barley roasted in an earthen +pan, then powdered in a mortar, and mixed with +cold water, and drank. This is the travelling +food of the country--of the Arab, the Moor, +the Berebber, the Shelluh, and the Negro; and +is universally used by travellers in crossing the +Sahara: the Akkabas that proceed from Akka +and Tatta to Timbuctoo, Houssa, and Wangara, +are always provided with a sufficient quantity of +this simple restorative to the hungry stomach.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>The Woled Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs,<br> +banished from the Plains of Marocco</i>.</p> + +<p>This populous, powerful, and valiant kabyl, +during the former part of the reign of the Sultan +Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of the +<a name="p318" id="p318"></a><span class="pagenum">[318]</span> +present Emperor Soliman, occupied the plains +west of the city of Marocco (being an emigration +from the Bedouin tribe of the same name +in the Sahara); but their depredatory disposition +made travelling through their territory unsafe; +wherefore the Emperor, after endeavouring in +vain to make an example of them, issued a decree +that they should all to a man leave his dominions, +and they were driven by his army out +of their country to the south, and entered the +Sahara. The whole kabyl was thus outlawed, +so that they were plundered and killed as they +passed through the plains of Fruga, Ait Musie, +Haha, and Suse, by the natives of those countries +respectively. Not half the number that +emigrated, (which was some thousands,) reached +the original clan in the Sahara.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>The Koran, called also El Kateb el Aziz</i>.</p> + +<p>The word Koran conveys the same signification +as <i>Bible</i>: it means "the reading" or "the +book;"--<i>kora</i>, "to read; "<i>el Kateb el Aziz</i>, i.e. +"the dear or beloved book," meaning thereby +the <i>Koran</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Arabian Music</i>.</p> + +<p>The Sultan Seedi Muhamed, after hearing the +musical band of the Marquis de Vialli, ambassador +from Venice, expressed his gratification at +the music of the Italians, and laconically observed +that it possessed more harmony than that +of any other nation, excepting his own. +</p> +<p><a name="p319" id="p319"></a><span class="pagenum">[319]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Sigin Messa</i>. (<i>Sigilmessa</i>.)</p> + +<p>The country of Sigin Messa, called in the +maps Sigilmessa, was the state prison of the +kingdom of Suse, when it formed a part of the +empire of Muley el Monsore, in the twelfth +century of the Christian era. Messa, a port in +Suse, was then a large city, and the capital of +the kingdom of Suse. The state prisoners were +sent to a place of safe keeping, which was east +of Tafilelt, and was therefore called Sigin +Messa, i.e. the prison of Messa.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Mungo Park at Timbuctoo</i>.</p> + +<p>In the month of March, 1806, a letter was +received at Mogodor by Seedi L'Abes Buhellal +Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo. +This letter was in Arabic, and the following is an +extract literally translated from it by myself:--</p> + +<p>"A boat arrived a few days since from the +West at Kabra, having two or three Christians +in it. One was (<i>rajel kabeer</i>) a tall man, who +stood erect in the boat, which displayed (<i>shinjuk +bied</i>) a white flag. The inhabitants of Kabra +did not, however, understand the signal to be +emblematic of peace, and no one went to the +boat, although it remained at anchor before +Kabra the whole day, till night. In the morning +it was gone."</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Troglodytæ</i>.</p> + +<p>The Shelluhs of the Atlas, south-east of Santa +<a name="p320" id="p320"></a><span class="pagenum">[320]</span> +Cruz, in Suse, during the rainy season, from +November till February inclusive, live in caves +and excavations in the rocks and earth; laying +up provisions sufficient for that period, until the +snow begins to melt. The Berebbers of North +Atlas have followed the same custom from time +immemorial.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Police of West Barbary</i>.</p> + +<p>When the present Emperor came to the +throne, he gave indefatigable attention to the +police. He wished, he said, to make the roads +safe for travellers, from the Desert, or Sahara, +to the shores of the Mediterranean. He was +vigilant in discovering thefts, and rigorous in +punishing them. If any one was robbed, he +had only to report it to the Emperor, who would +forthwith order the douar where the robbery +was committed to restore the sum stolen, and +to pay a fine to the treasury of the same amount. +By adhering strictly to this system, he improved +the revenue, and made travelling perfectly safe; +so that one may travel now (1805), without danger, +with property or money, from one end of +the empire to the other. Before this system of +policy was renewed, (for it is an old law of the +land,) travellers with property were obliged to +have a <i>statta</i>: thus, if a caravan was going from +Terodant or Marocco to Fas, it took a <i>statta;</i> +that is, two men, natives of the district of Rahamena, +who accompanied the caravan in safety +<a name="p321" id="p321"></a><span class="pagenum">[321]</span> +to the confines of their territory; they then +received a remuneration, and delivered over the +caravan to two men of Abda, who conducted it +to the border of Duquella: it was then delivered +into the hands of two Duquella Arabs; and so +it went through the different provinces till it +reached Fas, under the protection, through each +province, of a <i>statta</i>, each of which <i>statta</i> receives +a remuneration. So that, by the time of +arrival at Fas, the merchandise was sometimes +subject to a charge of 8 or 10 per cent. for +<i>statta</i> or convoy through the various provinces.</p> + +<p>Before the Emperor Soliman thus established +his authority, caravans of gums, almonds, ostrich +feathers, gold-dust, &c. &c. from Suse, were +sometimes twenty days going from Santa Cruz +to Mogodor, a distance of less than one hundred +miles, the <i>statta</i> being changed and paid at the +entrance of every kabyl, of which there are +twelve in the province of Haha alone; the camels +being also changed at every change of +<i>statta</i>, increased the charge on the merchandise +to an immoderate amount. It would be a great +acquisition to England, if His Majesty were to +negociate with the Emperor of Marocco for the +port of Santa Cruz; for the province of Suse +produces in abundance olive oil, almonds, and +gums; worm-seed, annis-seed, cummin-seed, and +orchilla; oranges, grapes, pomegranates, figs, +melons, &c. This port was farmed, during the +reign of Muley Ismael, for an annual stipend. +It is the key to Sudan, and a communication +<a name="p322" id="p322"></a><span class="pagenum">[322]</span> +might be opened on an extensive scale from +hence with Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and +other regions of Sudan, so as to supply, in a +few years, the whole of the interior of Africa +with British and East-India manufactures.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed</i>.</p> + +<p>This prince, who was elder brother of the +present Emperor Soliman, had accumulated considerable +treasure in executing the office of +(<i>khalif</i>) viceroy of the provinces of Duquella, +Abda, and Shedma. His father, jealous of his +son's power, when supported by a command of +treasure, had recourse to the usual means of +transferring it to the imperial treasury. It is +held as law in this country, that little is sufficient +for every purpose of life. When property +becomes accumulated, it is alleged that more +than a sufficiency is derogatory of the principles +laid down in the Koran, and ought to revolve +to the national treasury, there to be deposited +as a fund in reserve against the invasion of the +country by the Europeans, an event, which they +are quite sure, from an ancient tradition, will +happen at no very distant period.</p> + +<p>Abdrahaman, however, equally avaricious with +his father, objected to deliver up his treasure; +which so irritated the Sultan, that he ordered a +party of his negro soldiers to go to the Prince's +house and seize every thing valuable. These +men, in their thirst for plunder, out-ran their +discretion, as it appears; for they proceeded to +<a name="p323" id="p323"></a><span class="pagenum">[323]</span> +examine the ladies in the Horem, putting their +base hands on their persons, under the pretence +of discovering if they had concealed their jewels +and gold. This outrage roused the Prince's +indignation and he lost no time in absenting +himself for ever from his father's dominions, +for this insult on his dignity.--"If my +father," said the Prince, "had taken my treasure, +it would have passed from my hands to +his; but to permit the ignoble hands of slaves +to offer me such an indignity, is more than I +can or will suffer." Abdrahaman therefore emigrated +to the province of Lower Suse, on the +confines of Sahara, where he remained encamped, +ready, upon any alarm, at a moment's notice, +to penetrate into the Desert. He had always +two <i>heiries</i> ready saddled at the gate of his +(<i>keyma</i>) tent; one for carrying his treasure, viz. +gold dust and jewels, and the other for himself +to ride, on any emergency. Many fakeers were +sent from the Sultan to the Prince; with the +most solemn assurances of his reconciliation, +and with urgent solicitations to him to return; +but the Prince never forgave or forgot the +insult.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Anecdote of Muley Ismael</i>.</p> + +<p>Muley Ismael compared his subjects to a bag +full of rats.--"If you let them rest," said the +warrior, "they will gnaw a hole in it: keep +them moving, and no evil will happen." So his +<a name="p324" id="p324"></a><span class="pagenum">[324]</span> +subjects, if kept continually occupied, the government +went on well; but if left quiet, seditions +would quickly arise. This sultan was always +in the tented-field: he would say, that he +should not return to his palace until the tents +were rotten. He kept his army incessantly occupied +in making plantations of olives, or in +building: rest and rebellion were with him synonymous +terms.</p> + +<p>Before the Portuguese transplanted their +African colonies to South America, they had +penetrated far into West Barbary; they frequently +made incursions into the country from +Mazagan to Marocco, and eastward of that city. +They had a church near Diminet, on the declivity +of the Atlas, about thirty-five miles east of +Marocco, which is still existing: it is a kind of +sanctuary; the Berebbers say it is haunted; +they will not approach it. There is said to be +an inscription on the building in Roman characters, +over the entrance; but I never could ascertain +what it is.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Library at Fas</i>.</p> + +<p>When the present Emperor came to the throne +there was a very extensive and valuable library +of Arabic manuscripts at Fas, consisting of +many thousand volumes. Some of the more +intelligent literary Moors are acquainted with +events that happened formerly, during the time +of the Roman power, which Europeans do not +<a name="p325" id="p325"></a><span class="pagenum">[325]</span> +possess. Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of +Abda, was perfectly acquainted with Livy and +Tacitus, and had read those works from the +library at Fas. It is more than probable that +the works of these authors, as well as those of +many other Romans and Greeks, are to be +found translated into the Arabic language, in +the hands of private individuals in West and in +South Barbary. This library was dispersed at the +accession of Muley Soliman, and books commenting +on the Koran only were retained; the +rest were burned or dispersed among the +natives.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Deism</i>.</p> + +<p>Deism was very prevalent throughout the +empire. When the present Emperor Soliman +came to the throne, the deists went about in +large numbers, exclaiming, <i>La Allah ila Allah</i>, +"There is no God but God." The Emperor +soon silenced these people, by proclaiming that +if any should be found uttering this truth, +without adding, "Muhamed is his prophet," +should (<a id="footnotetag199" name="footnotetag199"></a> +<a href="#footnote199"><sup class="sml">199</sup></a><i>ekul lassah</i>) be beat. The sect soon +disappeared.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote199" +name="footnote199"></a><b>Footnote 199:</b><a href="#footnotetag199"> +(return) </a> This punishment is inflicted by two men, one on each +side; the culprit is stretched naked on the ground, and +beat on the back unmercifully, with sticks two yards long, +and as thick as a finger.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p326" id="p326"></a><span class="pagenum">[326]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Muhamedan Loyalty</i>.</p> + +<p>An alkaid of a district in the province of +Abda, when that province submitted to the +Emperor, went to His Majesty, taking with +him the fruit of his government, viz. 100,000 +dollars. He prostrated himself before the +Emperor, and announced that he had brought +this money to the Muselman treasury, being +what he had collected since the death of the +Emperor's father. "I have lived splendidly, and +have never wanted any thing, or I should have +brought Your Majesty much more treasure." +"You have been," said the Emperor, "a faithful +servant, and you shall be rewarded." He +was promoted to a government, and had many +opportunities of refunding his loss. A large +sum was returned to him for his fidelity.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Cairo</i>.</p> + +<p>The city of El Kahira is called by Europeans +Cairo. When Kairo was founded, in the 359th +year of the Hejra, the planet Mars was in +ascension; and it is Mars who conquers the +universe: "therefore," said Moaz, (the son of El +Mansor) to <i>his</i> son, "I have given it the name +of El-Kahira."<a id="footnotetag200" name="footnotetag200"></a> +<a href="#footnote200"><sup class="sml">200</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote200" +name="footnote200"></a><b>Footnote 200:</b><a href="#footnotetag200"> +(return) </a> El Kahira is the Arabic for the planet Mars, and signifies +<i>victorious</i>.</blockquote> +<br> +<p><a name="p327" id="p327"></a><span class="pagenum">[327]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Races of Men constituting the Inhabitants of<br> +West and South Barbary, and that Part of<br> +Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt and Sejin Messa,<br> +east of the Atlas, forming the Territories of the<br> +present Emperor of Marocco</i>.</p> + +<p><i>The Moors</i>, who inhabit the towns on the +coast, and the cities of Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, +and Terodant; who speak a corrupt Arabic +language.</p> + +<p><i>The Berebbers</i>, who appear to be the Aborigines, +and who retain precisely the same character +that was anciently given of the Mauritanians +by Sallust. These people inhabit the +mountains of Atlas, north of the city of +Marocco, and have a language peculiar to +themselves. They are a hardy race of warriors, +as artful as they are indefatigable in war; when +attacked by the imperial troops, they defend +themselves valiantly; and, by stratagem and +device, often surprise and defeat the Emperor's +best troops, the <i>abeed Seedy Bukaree</i>. They +call the Negro and Arab troops of the Emperor, +(<i>mâden el grudder</i>), a mine of deceit, and +never trust to their vows and promises, even if +they swear by the Koran. They are a restless +turbulent race, and have never been conquered. +They have adopted the Muhamedan doctrines.</p> + +<p><i>The Shelluhs</i>, or inhabitants of the Atlas, who +dwell in houses in the mountains south of +Marocco, in the province of Haha, and in part +of Suse. These are a weaker race, not so +<a name="p328" id="p328"></a><span class="pagenum">[328]</span> +athletic and robust as the Berebbers. Their +language has been represented to be similar to +that of the Berebbers, but that is evidently a +mistake; I have travelled through their country, +and through the country of the Berebbers, and +have conversed with hundreds, nay, I may say, +with thousands of them: I have no hesitation in +declaring them to be a different race. Their +language, costume, and habits differ; the +Shelluhs, however, possess the same art and duplicity +with the Berebbers.</p> + +<p><i>The Arabs</i>, who live in <i>douars</i> of tents, and +inhabit the immense plains west of the Atlas, +are the agriculturists of the country. They form +the principal population of this terrestrial paradise; +they are for the most part emigrations +from the Sahara, several centuries ago, and +speak the true Arabic language. These are a +fine race of men, possessing, in a superlative +degree, some of the noblest qualities of the +human race. To these may be added</p> + +<p><i>The Jews</i>, who wear a distinguishing costume, +and a black cap; they are all engaged in trade, +and form one-seventh of the population of the +walled habitations. They are held in great contempt, +and are treated very rudely by the Arabs, +and therefore are seldom met with among the +encampments of that people.</p> + +<p>A <i>douar</i> is a village of tents; these tents are +made of goats' and camels' hair; they are made +by the females, are of a close texture, extremely +warm, and impervious to the rain: thus they +<a name="p329" id="p329"></a><span class="pagenum">[329]</span> +are cool in the summer, and warm in the rainy +season. In countries exposed to the attacks of +neighbouring kabyles, they are arranged in a +circular form, covering sometimes several acres +of ground, having a large keyma or Arab tent +in the centre of the circle, which serves for a +<i>jamma</i>, or meeting for morning and evening +prayers, and at other times for an <i>emdursa</i>, or +seminary, where the Muhamedan youth are +taught to read the Koran, and to write, as they +call it, (<i>Sultan men Elsen</i>) the sultan of languages, +or language of languages. The tent-pegs +of the respective tents are indented within +each other, so that the cattle cannot go out or +in; moreover, a hedge of thorny bushes encircles +the whole, secured by staves drove into +the ground. The camels, horses, mules, horned +cattle, sheep, and goats, are all inclosed in a +division of the circular area during the night, +and a fire is kept all night, to keep off the lions +and wild beasts. The incessant barking of dogs, +which are very numerous among the Arabs, +prevent the travellers unaccustomed to these +habitations from sleeping.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Various Modes of Intoxication</i>.</p> + +<p>All nations have some method of getting rid +of reason, for the purpose of indulging in the +vacuum and temporary independence produced +by intoxication. We, of Europe, have recourse +to wine to effect this purpose: the opulent +indulge in the libations of claret, burgundy, +<a name="p330" id="p330"></a><span class="pagenum">[330]</span> +and champagne; the middling classes have +recourse to brandy, rum, and gin; but the +African effects this purpose at far less expense. +A muselman procures ample temporary relief +from worldly care for a mere trifle: he buys at +the (<i>attara</i>), drug shop, for a penny, a small +pipe of <i>el keef or hashisha</i>; this completely effects +his purpose. The leaves of this drug, which is +a kind of hemp, are called <i>el hashisha</i>; the +flower of the plant is called <i>el keef</i>, and is much +more powerful in its inebriating quality than +the <i>hashisha</i>, but a pipe of the latter will have +as powerful an effect as two or three bottles of +wine. It is said, that when the patient is +under the influence of pleasant imaginations, +the fume of this drug increases the sensation +into the most pleasing delirium, engendering +the most luxuriant images, and promoting a +voluptuous vacuum. But when the person's +ill fate tempts him to taste it in a melancholy +mood, it protracts the gloomy moments, and +gives the woes of life a longer duration: he +utters sighs and lamentations, he apprehends +nothing but misery and misfortune, till the effect +of the drug is exhausted, and he awakes from +his dream of woe.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Division of Agricultural Property</i>.</p> + +<p>Agricultural property is ascertained by a large +stone laid at each corner of a plantation of corn, +a direct line is drawn from stone to stone at +<a name="p331" id="p331"></a><span class="pagenum">[331]</span> +the season of reaping; it has, perhaps, never +been known, that these partitions have been +removed for the purpose of encroachment; a +mutual confidence, and a point of honour +renders this mode of discriminating the respective +property of individuals adequate to +every purpose of hedge or ditch.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Mines</i>.</p> + +<p>The mountains that separate the province of +Suse from that of Draha, abound in iron, +copper, and lead. Ketiwa, a district on the +declivity of Atlas, east of Terodant, contains +also mines of lead and brimstone; and saltpetre +also, of a superior quality, abounds in the +neighbourhood of Terodant. In the same +mountains, about fifty or sixty miles south-west +of Terodant, there are mines of iron of a very +malleable quality, equal to that of Biscay in +Spain, from which the people of Tagrasert +manufacture gun-barrels, equal to those made +in Europe. At Elala in Suse, in the same ridge +of mountains, are several rich mines of copper, +some of which are impregnated with gold: +they have also a rich silver mine, the metal of +which latter is cast in round lumps, weighing +two or three ounces each piece. I have bought +of this silver at Santa Cruz, and have paid +Spanish dollars for it, weight for weight; it is +very pure. Mines of antimony and lead ore +are also found in Suse, impregnated with gold, +<a name="p332" id="p332"></a><span class="pagenum">[332]</span> +some specimens of which I sent to England to +be analyzed; but being informed that it yielded +gold sufficient only to pay the expenses of +purifying, I gave no farther attention to it, +although I have had reason to think, since then, +that an importation of the ore would amply pay +the importer.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness,<br> +called by the Arabs Butelleese; and its Remedy</i>.</p> + +<p>During my residence at Santa Cruz, I had a +cousin with me who was afflicted with this disorder. +When the sun sat his blindness came +on, and continued till the rising sun. This +youth was so afflicted, during a month, with +this disorder, that he could scarcely see his way +with a candle in his hand, so that it was quite +painful to see him groping about. An Arab of +the Woled Abbusebah Kabyl, who retain much +of the science and art of their ancestors, and +whose prosperity I had promoted at Santa +Cruz, by facilitating his commercial adventures, +communicated to me a simple remedy for +this disorder; I put no faith in it, for it was +so simple that I was disposed to think it an +illusion. He called on me, however, repeatedly, +and finding I had not applied it, he brought it +one morning himself, and urged me to try it, +I did so; and that same evening the eyes of the +youth were almost well, and his sight was completely +restored the following night. This +<a name="p333" id="p333"></a><span class="pagenum">[333]</span> +ophthalmic affection, in an Arabic translation +of Hippocrates, is called <i>Butelleese;</i> another +translation of ancient date calls it <i>Shebkeret:</i> +the name, however, by which it is known at +the present day in Africa, is <i>Butelleese:</i> the +Latins called it <i>Lusciosus</i>, which word denotes +precisely the disease, viz. one who sees imperfectly +in the morning and evening twilight, +but whose vision is clear at broad day-light. +<i>Lusciosus ad lucernam non videt. Vesperi non +videre quos lusciosos appellant</i>. Plaut. Mil. +Gl. ii. 3.</p> + +<p>This ophthalmia has been by some denominated +<i>hen-blindness</i>, from the circumstance of +hens' eyes being thus affected, when they are +unable to see to pick up small grains in the +dusk of the evening. I have frequently seen +fowls thus affected soon after going to sea, from +the coast of Africa, after which they decline +and grow sick. A quantity of small gravel +should be spread in their coops at sea, which +prevents this disorder, and will sometimes cure +it. At the commencement of this complaint, the +circumstance that first engages the patient's +attention is the dimness of his eye-sight at +twilight: the nocturnal dimness of vision was +such, in the instance before-mentioned, that +the youth could scarcely see, even with a candle +in his hand, which he described, as seen by +him, as if it were misty, or as glimmering in a +thick fog. There was no external disfiguration +visible in the eyes, but they appeared as usual. +</p> +<p><a name="p334" id="p334"></a><span class="pagenum">[334]</span></p> + +<p>What the cause of this disorder was I am +unable to say; but I have often suspected that +it was contracted from the shining of the sun on +the white terras of the house where my cousin +used to go of a morning to shoot <i>tibeebs</i>, a bird +somewhat resembling the European sparrow. +This youth was rather of a weak or delicate +constitution. I did not repeat the above remedy, +as the boy's eyes continued well, without any +defect in the vision at any time of the day or +night, till seven-and-twenty days had elapsed, +when the disorder returned. I procured the +remedy again, and he took it; it had the same +effect as before; he took it again, and then +continued well for a month. It again returned +a third time, and was cured by one single +administration, after which it entirely disappeared, +and never returned. Some time after +this, I was informed that the British fleet in +the Mediterranean was affected with this disorder; +that one-tenth, or more, of the crews +of our ships had laboured under it; and, on my +return to England, I was urged to represent to +His Majesty's ministers, that I had an infallible +remedy for the disorder. I was referred to +Doctor Harness, of the Transport Board. I +waited on the Doctor, and afterwards corresponded +with him. He appeared very desirous of +knowing the remedy; but he was not at liberty +to grant me any remuneration for it. I, however, +offered to discover it, on being reimbursed +the sum which the remedy cost me, on experimental +<a name="p335" id="p335"></a><span class="pagenum">[335]</span> +proof being produced of its infallibility; +which proposition was rejected by the Transport +Board in August, 1812, who informed me at the +same time, that the Lords Commissioners of +the Admiralty did not judge proper to grant +the sum required by me for the discovery of the +remedy for Nyctalopia, which, I should add, was +between 500<i>l</i>. and 600<i>l</i>. The remedy, therefore, +remains a secret to this day.</p> + +<p>A celebrated electrician and galvanist having +conversed with me lately respecting this remedy +for Nyctalopia, suggested to me the probability, +that the same remedy might be effectual also in +<i>gutta serena</i>, as both those disorders are known +to proceed from a defect in the optic nerve. This +opinion he corroborated, by quoting, in confirmation +of it, the opinion of a well-known author. +The electrician perceiving my incredulity, or +more properly, my ignorance of the wonderful +connection that exists between the intestines and +the head, was prompted, as I verily believe, by +a philanthropic disposition; and actually proved +to me, experimentally, the influence which the +eyes have on the intestines, and <i>vice versa</i>. A +patient with a <i>gutta serena</i>, who had been, as +he informed me, twelve months under the hands +of a celebrated oculist, was recommended by the +latter, as a last resource, to try galvanism. He +had received no benefit whatever whilst under +the direction of the oculist above alluded to, +but his intestines were intolerably deranged by +the effects of the mercury which he had taken. +<a name="p336" id="p336"></a><span class="pagenum">[336]</span> +This gentleman galvanised his eyes, and the +man, who is a gunsmith, told me, that when +he first went to have the operation performed, +he could not see the red border round the +hearth-rug in the front parlour, but when he +returned into that room, after having been +galvanised, he assured me he saw it plainly. +He moreover declared that his bowels had been, +and then were, in a very deranged state, from +the effects of the mercury which he had taken, +but that he felt incredible relief after having +been galvanised, and that, two or three days +afterwards, they were quite restored to health +and strength. Being thus satisfied with the influence +that so wonderfully exists between the +intestines and the eyes, I am now making +arrangements with the same gentleman, to +administer the remedy for the benefit, <i>as we +hope</i>, of patients afflicted with <i>gutta serena</i>. +But I now declare to the public a third +time, that the remedy is simple, safe, and +effectual, and that I am ready and desirous of +administering it to any one who may choose to +apply for it, who is afflicted with the disorder, +with my positive assurances, that it will effect a +cure in eight-and-forty hours at the utmost, but +probably in twenty-four.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Vaccination.</i></p> + +<p>Intelligence received from West Barbary was +instrumental in promoting the adoption of +<a name="p337" id="p337"></a><span class="pagenum">[337]</span> +vaccination. In the latter years of the last +century, the small-pox pervaded West and +South Barbary. Mr. Matra, the British consul-general +to the Empire of Marocco, wrote to +me at that period officially, to procure him +every information possible, and to inform him +if I could discover if cattle in this country were +subject to the small-pox. I made every inquiry +without delay, and I reported to His Excellency, +(who was ambassador as well as consul), that I +had ascertained that the horses, mules, asses, +and oxen were subject in this country to the +small-pox, of which there could be no doubt, +as the name given to the disorder in the beasts +of the field, was the same as that which designated +the small-pox in the human species, viz. +<span class="sc">Jedrie</span>. In consequence of this information, +confirmed afterwards by other enquiries, His +Excellency wrote to England on the subject, +and, I believe, sent some vaccine pus home; +soon after which Dr. Jenner began his experiments +on vaccine inoculation, which have +since been adopted throughout Europe, and in +great part of Asia and America. Although +I was thus instrumental in the propagation +of vaccine inoculation, yet I never asked +for or received any remuneration; but I feel +a satisfaction in having been thus instrumental +of good to mankind, in this new and eligible +system of inoculation, by means of which human +life has been preserved; for, according to Sir +Gilbert Blane's late statement, 23,134 lives +<a name="p338" id="p338"></a><span class="pagenum">[338]</span> +have been saved during the last 15 years by +vaccination.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Game</i>.</p> + +<p>All kinds of game are plentiful in South and +in West Barbary; viz. <i>el gror</i>, a bird somewhat +similar to the English partridge, but unknown in +Europe. I shot some of these birds for Doctor +Brussonet, the naturalist, who was intendant of the +national garden of botany at Montpelier, which +that gentleman prepared in the oven, and sent to +the National Institute at Paris. He informed me +this bird was a non-descript. Hares, antelopes, +woodcocks, snipes, plovers, bustards. There is +an abundance of partridges, red ducks as large +as geese, ducks, wigeon, and teal; curlews, in +immense quantities, are found in the flat parts of +the country on the coast; immense quantities of +doves, wild pigeons, wood-pigeons, and large +sand-larks. Every person is at liberty to shoot; +but the princes and the great, consider field-sports +beneath their dignity, except hawking, +and hunting the wild boar, the lion, and the +tiger. The Muhamedans do not prefer game to +other food. When they have shot a bird, they +immediately cut its throat, that the blood may +flow freely; otherwise it is not lawful to eat it. +Game is never seen in the public markets. +When they shoot for Europeans, they dispense +with the ceremony of cutting the throat of +the game. They reproach the Christians for +eating such food, which they call (<i>m'jeefa</i>) +"strangled." +</p> +<p><a name="p339" id="p339"></a><span class="pagenum">[339]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Agriculture.--Mitferes.</i></p> + +<p>The agriculturists, in all the Arab provinces +throughout this empire, have subterraneous caverns +or apartments, generally in the form of a +cone, for the preservation of their corn during +a scarcity or famine. During my residence in +this country, I have investigated the method, +and have learned the art of constructing these +depositories of grain. They season them before +the corn is deposited. They should not be constructed +in a clay soil. In these <i>mitferes</i>, throughout +the Arab provinces of Duquella, Temsena, +Shawiya, &c. they preserve the corn sound during +thirty years. I have been present at the +opening of them after the corn had been deposited +twenty-one years. It was perfectly +sound. When these depositories are opened, +each family takes a portion of the grain, so as +to distribute the whole immediately; otherwise, +in a few months, if not consumed, it acquires +a peculiar bad flavour, which is called the <i>mitfere</i> +<i>twang</i>. To prevent this, an Arab, on opening +one of these depositaries, lends corn to all +his neighbours, and in his turn he receives it +back again, when they respectively open theirs. It +is unnecessary to expatiate on the expediency of +constructing <i>mitferes</i> in a country oftentimes visited +by locusts, the plague, drought, or inundation. +There would be a manifest policy in establishing +similar granaries in our colony in South +Africa, where I understand they are visited by +<a name="p340" id="p340"></a><span class="pagenum">[340]</span> +locusts, and where the soil is similar to that of +West and South Barbary. All the valuable +gums that Barbary now supplies Europe with, +and also many articles of commerce not yet +known at the Cape, might be procured from +Barbary, and if transplanted to that colony, +would undoubtedly thrive, from the similarity of +climate and soil.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Laws of Hospitality</i>.</p> + +<p>The territory of the Emperor of Marocco, +west of the mountains of Atlas, and from the +shores of the Mediterranean to the confines of +the Shelluh province of Haha, is one continual +corn-field, inhabited by Arabs living in douars +or encampments: much of the ground, however, +lies fallow. These encampments are fixed generally +at a considerable distance from the track +of travellers, so that a person unacquainted +with this circumstance, would be disposed to +imagine the country thinly inhabited. The tents +in safe countries, where there is no fear of +wild beasts, are pitched in a straight line; but +where lions or other ferocious animals are found, +the tents are disposed in a circular form; and +thorny bushes are placed round the douar, to +prevent the visits of these unwelcome guests. +The Arabs are the agriculturists of the country, +and are for the most part emigrations from +the original stock in Sahara. These people have +preserved from time immemorial the practice of +open and unrestrained hospitality. Their prophet +<a name="p341" id="p341"></a><span class="pagenum">[341]</span> +confirmed these propensities; and hospitality +has been ever since, the predominant +virtue of the Arab. Accordingly, Muhamedans +are entitled, through their various journeys, +to be entertained three days wherever +they sojourn. A traveller, therefore, when he +chooses to rest from the fatigue of his journey, +goes to one of these douars and exclaims (<i>Deef +Allah</i>) "the guests of God." The sheik then +comes forth from his tent to receive him or +them: (<i>Kheyma Deâf</i>) the travellers' or guests' +tent is appropriated to the stranger; food is +brought to him, agreeably to his rank in life, +but always simple, good, and wholesome. Here +he may remain, if he chooses, for three days, +without being considered an intruder, and free +of all expense whatsoever. If he wishes to exceed +the three days allowed by the Muhamedan +law, he must prove his poverty; which being +done, he may be entertained for a further period +of time: but this latter is quite optional; no +man is compelled to entertain and provide food +for strangers and travellers, without remuneration, +above three days.</p> + +<p>This hospitality extends not generally to all +mankind, but to Muhamedans only. A Christian +or a Jew would be expected to pay a trifle +for his entertainment; although, in travelling +through the province of Suse, the Arabs have +absolutely refused to take any remuneration from +me; but, that is not generally the case, nor +ought such conduct to be expected: in the instances +<a name="p342" id="p342"></a><span class="pagenum">[342]</span> +before-mentioned, these people considered +themselves so much benefited by the +opening of the port of Santa Cruz, that they +thought they could not do enough for me. I +was, therefore, every where received in that +province with the most cordial marks of disinterested +hospitality.</p> + +<p>The laws of hospitality are sacred and inviolable. +This I will elucidate, by relating a circumstance +that happened while I was at Marocco. +The Emperor was dissatisfied with the +conduct of four sheiks of Suse: they had not +discharged the duties of their public vocation, +but had abused their office; the Emperor had +issued orders to arrest them, but by some means +they got intelligence of the orders; they therefore +immediately ordered their horses, and decamped +in the evening from Marocco: they +knew they should not be safe any where from +the Emperor's grasp, but under the protection +of the Khalif Muhamed ben Delemy, whom, +however, they had in some manner injured; +nevertheless, knowing the noble character of +the man, they were resolved to try their fate; +accordingly, they made haste to reach the gates +of his castle in Shtuka, before the Emperor +might discover their departure. They arrived, +and exclaiming <i>Deef Allah</i>, they were admitted. +Delemy told them, that although they had not +behaved friendly to him, he would protect them. +His gates, he said, were always open to the +children of adversity, and they might depend on +<a name="p343" id="p343"></a><span class="pagenum">[343]</span> +his protection. The Emperor soon discovered, +by diligent enquiry, what route they had taken, +and His Imperial Majesty urged Delemy to +deliver them up; but the latter expostulated, +and observing that he should not deserve the +name of an Arabian sheik, if he degraded himself +by giving up those who had claimed his +protection, in his own country: and he actually +granted them protection several months; till, at +length, finding they could not escape the hand +of power, by any plan but that of going into +the Sahara, Delemy agreed to see them safe out +of the Emperor's dominions, and accompanied +them to Akka, and beyond that place, till they +reached the Sahara, where, being perfectly safe, +he took his leave of them, and they exchanged +<i>Salems</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Punishment for Murder.</i></p> + +<p>If a man commits murder, the friends of the +murdered claim redress of the alkaid, if in a +town,--of the bashaw of the province, if in +the country. If the murderer is discovered, +he is taken into custody, to suffer death, unless +the relations of the murdered man choose to +compromise with the relations of the murderer: +in which case, a sum of money is paid to the +former, and the matter is thus settled.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Insolvency Laws.</i></p> + +<p>An insolvent cannot be detained in prison +after his insolvency is ascertained. He gives up +his property to his creditors; but if he should +<a name="p344" id="p344"></a><span class="pagenum">[344]</span> +afterwards become a man of substance, his creditors +can claim the amount of their debts, deducting +what they have already received.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Dances</i>.</p> + +<p>The dances of the Arabs are peculiar to themselves. +The youths dance without females, and +the females without youths. On all marriages +and rejoicings, music and dancing continue till +the dawn of day. Among the encampments of +Arabs, in the summer season, the whole country, +at night, is in a blaze of light. The kettle-drum, +the triangle, the shepherd's pipe, and the <i>erbeb</i> +an instrument resembling the fiddle, with two +strings, form the band of music.</p> + +<p>The youths form a double row of six or eight +in each, and carry themselves erect, with their +arms hanging down close to their side; moving +obliquely to the right, then to the left, without +taking their feet from the ground, but moving +their heels, then their toes on the ground, advancing +or gliding slowly along; keeping exact +time with the music: they then vault in the air, +perform somersets and various feats of agility. +They sing also with great taste and judgment, +and some of them have excellent voices, being +selected for the purpose of affording entertainment +to the spectators. The ladies dance also +in a similar manner, but without the vaulting +and somersets. They have a very elegant shawl-dance, +which some of them dance with great +taste, and with much graceful movement. +</p> +<p><a name="p345" id="p345"></a><span class="pagenum">[345]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Circumcision.</i></p> + +<p>The circumcision of male children is the general +practice of Islaemism; it is also used among +some of the<a id="footnotetag201" name="footnotetag201"></a> +<a href="#footnote201"><sup class="sml">201</sup></a> <i>Khaffers</i> or <i>Cafers</i> of North, Central, +and South Africa. Circumcision is not a +practice ascribed to a principle of cleanliness, +or any other cause, but ancient usage. The +period of performing this operation among the +Arabs is at the age of eight years.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote201" +name="footnote201"></a><b>Footnote 201:</b><a href="#footnotetag201"> +(return) </a> <i>Khaffer</i> (singular number) is an Arabic term, applied to +all who are not Muhamedans; all Pagans, Jews, and +Christians, are called <i>Khaffer</i>, <i>K'fer</i> (plural) <i>Kaffir billa</i>, an +atheist: hence Caffraria, the name of the country near the +Cape of Good Hope.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz.</i></p> + +<p>Transport of (<a id="footnotetag202" name="footnotetag202"></a> +<a href="#footnote202"><sup class="sml">202</sup></a><i>Alk Sudan</i>) gum of Sudan, +bought at Timbuctoo, on account of Messrs. +James Jackson and Co. by their agent, L'Hage +Muhamed O----n, and dispatched to Akka by +the spring (<i>akkaba</i>) accumulated caravan, in +February, 1794.</p> + +<p class="rig">M. Doll</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote202" +name="footnote202"></a><b>Footnote 202:</b><a href="#footnotetag202"> +(return) </a> This gum is the produce of an enormous tree of Sudan, +which flourishes near Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and +Bernoh (or Bernou) it is transported by the caravans to +Alexandria in Egypt, to Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers. From +the African ports in the Mediterranean it is shipped to +Smyrna and Constantinople, and from thence to England, +under the denomination of Turkey gum; some goes to +Mogodor and Tetuan, and thence to London.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p346" id="p346"></a><span class="pagenum">[346]</span></p> + + +<pre> +200 camel loads of gum-sudan, each weighing +250 lb. net, bought at Timbuctoo, at four Mexico +dollars per load, 800 + + +<i>Charges.</i>--Cow-skins to pack it in, sticks +to stow it on the camels, &c. 25 + +200 camels hired to Akka, at 18 Mexico +dollars each, 3600 + +Stata, <i>i.e.</i> convoy through the Sahara, +from Timbuctoo to Arawan, at 20 +cents per camel, 40 + +Do. from Arawan to East Tagrassa, at +20 cents per camel, 40 + +Do. from East Tagrassa to Akka, at +40 cents per camel, 40 + +20 per cent., or one-fifth, on the first +cost, to be allowed to the purchaser +on safe arrival at Akka, 160 + ____ + + 4705 + ____ +</pre> + +<p><a name="p347" id="p347"></a><span class="pagenum">[347]</span> +The adventure is subject to this charge, provided +it arrive safe at Akka, not otherwise, as +also to encourage the agent at Timbuctoo, to +exert himself in procuring trusty guides and competent +statas, which he would not do, without +having a certain interest in the safe delivery.</p> + +<p><i>N.B.</i> No stata is necessary from Akka to +Santa Cruz, but the hire is 3 dollars per camel.</p><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, which<br> +accompanied the foregoing Consignment.</i></p> + +<p>Praise be to God alone; for there is nothing +durable but the kingdom of heaven.</p> + +<p>To the Christian merchant, Jackson, at Agadeer. +Peace be to those who follow the right +way.</p> + +<p>This being premised, know that I have sent +you by this akkabah, two hundred camel load of +gum-sudan, agreeable to the account herewith +transmitted. The stata will be paid by my friend, +L'Hage Aly, sheik of Akka, whom I request you +will reimburse according to the account which I +have sent to you by him; and if he goes to +Agadeer, be kind, friendly, and hospitable to +him on my account, for he stands high in my +esteem; and peace be with you.</p> + +<p>Written at Timbuctoo, 10th of the month Muharram, +year of the Hejra 1208, (corresponding +with 15th Feb. A.C. 1794). By your friend,</p> + +<p> +<span class="rig">L'HAGE MUHAMED O----n.</span><br> +God be merciful to him.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Invoice from Timbuctoo to Fas</i>.</p> + +<p>Transport of gold, gum, and cottons, from +Timbuctoo to Fas, consigned to L'Hage Seyd +and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely, Timbuctoo +merchants at Fas, by (<i>akkaba el Kheriffy</i>) the +autumnal caravan. Dispatched 29th Duelhaja el +Hurem, year 1204, corresponding with 10th +October, A.C. 1790.</p> + +<p>500 skins (<i>Tibber Wangâree</i>) gold dust of Wangara, +each skin containing 4 ounces, bought +on their account, in barter for 800 Flemish +plattilias.</p> + +<p>100 (<i>Sibikat deheb Wangaree</i>). Wangara gold +in bars, weighing 20 ounces each, bought +in exchange for 400 pieces (<i>Shkalat</i>) Irish +cloth, averaging 44 cubits each piece (7 +cubits are equal to 4 English yards). +<a name="p348" id="p348"></a><span class="pagenum">[348]</span></p> + +<p>10 bed-covers, 9 cubits long, 4 wide, chequered +pattern, blue and white cotton, with +scarlet silk between the chequers, manufactured +at Timbuctoo, bought in barter for +100 lb. sugar, 30 loaves.</p> + +<p>50 camel-load gum-sudan, weighing net 120 +quintals.</p> + +<p><i>Charges</i>.--Hire of 50 camels to Akka, at 18 +dollars each.</p> + +<p>Stata to ditto, 1 dollar per load, to be paid +by Sheik Aly ben A----r.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Copy of the Letter accompanying the foregoing<br> +Remittance.</i></p> + +<p>Praise be to God alone; for there is neither +beginning nor strength, without God, the eternal +God.</p> + +<p>To my friends, L'Hage Zeyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman +Elfellely. Peace be with ye, and the +mercy of the High God; and after that, know, +that I have sent to our agents at Akka, by the +autumnal caravan, 50 camel loads of gum-sudan, +being 100 skins; in each skin of gum I have +packed 5 skins of gold dust, and 1 bar of gold. +L'Hage Tahar ben Jelule will deliver to our +agent at Akka, for you, 10 very handsome cotton +covers for beds, of Sudan manufacture. May +all this arrive safe, with the blessing of God. I +will inform you by the spring caravan what merchandize +to send here next autumn. I refer you +to a long letter, which I have sent to you by +L'Hage Tahar. Peace be with you, and the +blessing of God be upon you. +<a name="p349" id="p349"></a><span class="pagenum">[349]</span></p> + +<p>Written at Timbuctoo, the 29th Duelhaja El +Huram, year 1204.</p> + +<p><span class="rig">L'HAGE HAMED ELWANGARIE</span><br>. +<a id="footnotetag203" name="footnotetag203"></a> +<a href="#footnote203"><sup class="sml">203</sup></a>God protect him.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote203" +name="footnote203"></a><b>Footnote 203:</b><a href="#footnotetag203"> +(return) </a> The Muhamedans, in signing their name, always invoke +the protection, mercy, or providence of God upon themselves.</blockquote> +<br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Food of the Desert.</i></p> + +<p>The people, whose interest induces them to +cross the desert, (for there are no travellers from +curiosity in this country,) obviate the objection to +salt provisions, which increases the propensity +to drink water, by taking with them melted +butter, called <i>smin</i>; this is prepared without +salt. They also cut beef into long pieces, about +six inches long, and one inch square, without +fat; these are called <i>el kuddeed</i>, which are +hung on a line, exposed to the air till dry; they +then cut them into pieces, two inches long; +these are put into (<i>buckul</i>) an earthen pot; +they then pour the <i>smin</i> into the <i>buckul</i> till it +is covered. This meat and butter, besides being +palatable, is comprised in a small compass, and +feeds many. When this butter has been thus +prepared and kept twelve or fifteen years, it is +called <i>budrâ</i>, and is supposed to contain penetrating +active medicinal qualities. I have seen +some thirty years old.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Antithesis, a favourite Figure with the Arabs.</i></p> + +<p>Mahmoud, sultan of Ghezna in the beginning +of the eleventh century, though the son of a +<a name="p350" id="p350"></a><span class="pagenum">[350]</span> +slave, was very powerful. He sent to the +khalif Alkader, requesting a title suited to his +exalted dignity. The latter hesitated; but fearing +the power of the sultan, sent him at the +expiration of a year the ambiguous title, <i>Uly</i>, +i.e. a prince, a friend, a slave. Mahmoud +penetrated the khalif's meaning, and sent him +immediately 100,000 pieces of gold, with a wish +to know whether a letter had not been omitted. +Alkader received the treasure, and took the +hint, instantly dispatching letters patent in full +form, creating him <i>Uäly</i> which signifies, +without equivocation, a sovereign independent +prince.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Arabian Modes of Writing</i>.</p> + +<p>The Arabs have various modes of writing, +the principal of which is that used by the +Koreish, the most learned of all the Western +tribes, and is denominated the <i>Niskhi</i>, or upright +character: if this is understood, the others +may be easily comprehended. This is the character +in which the Koran was originally written. +In the seventh century, the Arabs adopted the +invention of Moramer ben Morra, a native of +Babylonian Irak, which was afterwards improved +by the Kufik. The Kufik and the +Niskhi are synonymous. Richardson, in his +Arabic Grammar, p. 4. say, "The Mauritannick +character, which is used by the Moors of Marocco +and Barbary, descendants of the Arabians, differs +<a name="p351" id="p351"></a><span class="pagenum">[351]</span> +in many respects <i>considerably</i> from the other modes +of writing." But this is incorrect; for the Mauritannick +alphabet, excepting in the order of the +letters, is precisely the same with the Oriental, as +now written and spoken, with the exception only +of the letters <i>Fa</i> and <i>Kaf</i>, and the formation even +of these characters are alike. The punctuation +only, differs in the West, that is, west of the +Egyptian Nile. The Western punctuation of <i>Fa</i>, +is one point below the letter, and the punctuation +of the letter <i>Kaf</i> is one point above. In +the East, the former letter has one point above, +the latter has two. This is the only difference +between the Eastern and the Western alphabets. +Richardson, (see his Grammar, page 5,) also says, +that "the purest Arabic is spoken at Grand +Cairo," but this is not correct: the language of +Grand Cairo and of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and +Marocco are much alike, but none of them +are the pure Koraisch or Korannick Arabic, +which is only spoken at Mekka, and among +some of the tribes of Bedouins in the West. +The language of the Woled Abbusebah, of the +Howara, and of the Mograffra is the pure Arabic. +Finally, in a note in Richardson's Grammar, +page 18, it is said, "Some of our European +writers, and amongst others Voltaire, substitute +<i>Koran</i> for <i>Alcoran</i>, but perhaps improperly, as +D'Herbelot and other learned Orientalists, write +uniformly <i>l'Alcoran, il Alcorano</i>, the Alcoran." +We have been too apt to copy the orthography +of Oriental names from the French, whose pronunciation +of the Roman or European characters +<a name="p352" id="p352"></a><span class="pagenum">[352]</span> +differs from ours. There cannot be a doubt that +D'Herbelot is incorrect. The word <i>Koran</i> (for +there is no <i>c</i> in the Arabic language) is derived +from the verb <i>Kora</i>, to read; <i>koran</i>, reading: +<i>Al</i> is the article; but, in this instance, D'Herbelot +uses this article twice, which is certainly +erroneous, for <i>l'</i> is the French article in the word +in question, and <i>al</i> is the Arabic article; whereas +<i>one</i> article only should precede a noun. <i>L'Alcoran</i> +and the <i>Alcoran</i> are therefore equally incorrect; +for the word in French should be <i>Le +Coran</i>; in English, <i>the Koran</i>; therefore Voltaire +was correct. I have thought it expedient to +make these observations, because standing in +Richardson's Grammar on the authority of +<i>learned orientalists</i>, they are calculated to mislead +the Arabic student.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Decay of Science and the Arts among the Arabs</i>.</p> + +<p>The literary fire of the Arabs and Persians +has been extinguished upwards of 300 years; but +before that period, the encouragement to learning +in the East was unprecedented, and has +never been equalled by any European nation +either before or since that period. Kadder +Khan, king of Turquestan, was the greatest +support to science. When he appeared abroad, +he was preceded by 700 horsemen, with silver +battle-axes, and was followed by an equal +number bearing maces of gold. He supported +with magnificent appointment a literary academy +in his palace, consisting of 100 men of +<a name="p353" id="p353"></a><span class="pagenum">[353]</span> +the highest reputation. Amak, called Abu Näib +El Bokari, who was the chief poet, exclusive of +a great pension and a vast number of slaves, +had, in attendance wherever he went, thirty +horses of state richly caparisoned, and a retinue +in proportion. The king before-mentioned used +to preside at their exercises of genius, on which +occasions, by the side of his throne were always +placed four large basons filled with gold and +silver, which he distributed liberally to those +who excelled.</p> + +<p>Lebid suspended over the gate at Mecca a +sublime poem; Muhamed placed near it the +opening of the second chapter of the Koran, +which was conceived to be something divine, +and it gained the prize of the <i>Ocadh</i> assembly.</p> + +<p>The remains of this custom of suspending +over gates Arabic poems, is perceived at this +day among the western Moors. The gates or +entrances to Mogodor, Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, +&c. have writing over them, which is a +kind of Arabic short-hand, that none but the +learned understand; these writings, however, +are not moveable, being engraven on a square +table on the stone itself.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Extraordinary Abstinence experienced in the +Sahara</i>.</p> + +<p>The Arabs or inhabitants of the Sahara, can +support the most extraordinary abstinence. Occasions +occur, wherein they will travel several +<a name="p354" id="p354"></a><span class="pagenum">[354]</span> +days without food. After suffering a privation +of a day or two, they tie their (<i>hazam</i>) belt +round their loins, every morning tighter than +the preceding day, thereby preventing, in some +measure, that action of the bowels which promotes +appetite. A Saharawan will thus go five +or six days without food of any kind, in which +case, when he reaches a habitation, or a (<i>wah</i>) +cultivated spot in the Desert, he will drink +about half-a-pint of camel's milk; this remains +on the stomach but a short time: he then takes +another draught, which, with some, remains and +gives nourishment, but with others <i>it</i> is also +rejected by the stomach; <i>a third draught is then +taken, which restores the exhausted traveller!</i> +I have been assured, that instances have been +known in Sahara, wherein a man has been +without food of any kind for seven days, and +has afterwards been restored by the foregoing +regimen! +</p> +<p><a name="p355" id="p355"></a><span class="pagenum">[355]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h3>LANGUAGES OF AFRICA.</h3> + +<p><i>Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference +between the Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen +of the Mandinga.--Comparison of the Shelluh +Language with that of the Canary Islands, and Similitude +of Customs</i>.</p> + +<p>Yareb, the son of Kohtan<a id="footnotetag204" name="footnotetag204"></a> +<a href="#footnote204"><sup class="sml">204</sup></a>, is said to have +been the first who spoke Arabic, and the Muhamedans +contend that it is the most eloquent +language spoken in any part of the globe, and +that it is the one which will be used at the day +of judgment. To write a long dissertation on +this copious and energetic language, would be +only to repeat what many learned men have said +before; a few observations, however, may not +be superfluous to the generality of readers. The +Arabic language is spoken by a greater proportion +of the inhabitants of the known world +than any other: a person having a practical +knowledge of it, may travel from the shores of +the Mediterranean Sea to the Cape of Good +Hope, and notwithstanding that in such a +journey he must pass through many kingdoms +and empires of blacks, speaking distinct languages, +yet he would find men in all those +<a name="p356" id="p356"></a><span class="pagenum">[356]</span> +countries versed in Muhamedan learning, and +therefore acquainted with the Arabic; again, +he might cross the widest part of the African +continent from west to east, and would every +where meet with persons acquainted with it, +more particularly if he should follow the course +of the great river called the Neel El Abeed, +on the banks of which, from Jinnie and Timbuctoo, +to the confines of lower Egypt, are +innumerable cities and towns of Arabs and +Moors, all speaking the Arabic. Again, were +a traveller to proceed from Marocco to the +farthest shore of Asia, opposite the islands of +Japan, he would find the Arabic generally +spoken or understood wherever he came. In +Turkey, in Syria, in Arabia, in Persia, and in +India, it is understood by all men of education; +and any one possessing a knowledge of the +Korannick Arabic, might, in a very short time, +make himself master of all its various dialects.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote204" +name="footnote204"></a><b>Footnote 204:</b><a href="#footnotetag204"> +(return) </a> This Kohtan is the Joktan, son of Eber, brother to +Phaleg, mentioned in Genesis. Chapter x, verse 25.</blockquote> + +<p>The letters of this language<a id="footnotetag205" name="footnotetag205"></a> +<a href="#footnote205"><sup class="sml">205</sup></a> are formed in +four distinct ways, according to their situation +at the beginning, middle, or end of words, as +well as when standing alone; the greatest +difficulty, however, to be overcome, is the +acquiring a just pronunciation, (without which +no living language can be essentially useful;) +and to attain which, the learner should be able +to express the difference of power and sound +between what may be denominated the synonymous +<a name="p357" id="p357"></a><span class="pagenum">[357]</span> +letters, such as ط and ث with ت + and ع with ا and ص with س and ض and ظ with د + and ة with ح and ق with ى and خ and غ with ر.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote205" +name="footnote205"></a><b>Footnote 205:</b><a href="#footnotetag205">(return) </a>The Oriental punctuation is here adopted.</blockquote> + +<p>Besides these, there are other letters, whose +power is extremely difficult to be acquired by +an European, because no language in Europe +possesses sounds similar to the Arabic letters + خ غ ع, nor has any language, except, perhaps, +the English, a letter with the power of the +Arabian ث. Those who travel into Asia or +Africa scarcely ever become sufficiently masters +of the Arabic to speak it fluently, which radical +defect proceeds altogether from their not learning, +while studying it, the peculiar distinction +of the synonymous letters. <i>No European, perhaps, +ever knew more of the theory of this language +than the late Sir William Jones, but still +he could not converse with an Arabian;</i> a circumstance +of which he was not conscious until +he went to India. This great man, however, +had he been told that his knowledge of this +popular eastern language was so far deficient, +that he was ignorant of the separate powers of +its synonymous letters, and consequently inadequate +to converse intelligibly with a native +Arab, he would certainly have considered it an +aspersion, and have disputed altogether that +such was the fact. Considering how much we +are indebted to the Arabians for the preservation +of many of the works of the ancients, +<a name="p358" id="p358"></a><span class="pagenum">[358]</span> +which would otherwise have never, perhaps, +been known to us, it is really surprising, that +their language should be so little known in +Europe. It is certainly very difficult and +abstruse, (to learners particularly,) but this difficulty +is rendered insurmountable by the +European professors knowing it only as a dead +language, and <i>teaching it without due attention +to the pronunciation of the before mentioned +synonymous letters, a defect which is not likely +to be remedied, and which will always subject the +speaker to incessant errors</i>.</p> + +<p>To show the Arabic student the difference +between the Oriental and Occidental order of +the letters of the alphabet, I shall here give +them opposite each other.</p> +<a name="p359" id="p359"></a><span class="pagenum">[359]</span><br> + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="table header 1"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 20%; text-align: center;">Oriental + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"><br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 20%; text-align: center;">Occidental + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 45%;"><br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="alphabet"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"> +1 Alif<br> +2 ba<br> +3 ta<br> +4 thsa<br> +5 jim<br> +6 hha<br> +7 kha<br> +8 dal<br> +9 dsal<br> +10 ra<br> +11 za<br> +12 sin<br> +13 shin<br> +14 sad<br> +15 dad<br> +16 ta<br> +17 da<br> +18 ain<br> +19 gain<br> +20 fa<br> +21 kaf<br> +22 kef<br> +23 lem<br> +24 mim<br> +25 nun<br> +26 waw<br> +27 he<br> +28 ya<br> +29 lam-alif + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; text-align: right; width: 5%;"> +ا<br> +ب<br> +ت<br> +ث<br> +ج<br> +ح<br> +خ<br> +د<br> +ذ<br> +ر<br> +ز<br> +س<br> +ش<br> +ص<br> +ض<br> +ط<br> +ظ<br> +ع<br> +غ<br> +ف<br> +ق<br> +ك<br> +ل<br> +م<br> +ن<br> +و<br> +ه<br> +ي<br> +<img alt="ligature" src="images/lam-alif.png"> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"> + + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"> +1 Alif<br> +2 ba<br> +3 ta<br> +4 tha<br> +5 jim<br> +6 hha<br> +7 kha<br> +8 dal<br> +9 dth'al<br> +10 ra<br> +11 zain<br> +12 ta<br> +13 da<br> +14 kef<br> +15 lam<br> +16 mim<br> +17 nune<br> +18 sad<br> +19 dad<br> +20 ain<br> +21 g'rain<br> +22 fa<br> +23 kaf<br> +24 sin<br> +25 shin<br> +26 hha<br> +27 wow<br> +28 ia<br> +29 lam-alif + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 5%; text-align: right;"> +ا<br> +ب<br> +ت<br> +ث<br> +ج<br> +ح<br> +خ<br> +د<br> +ذ<br> +ر<br> +ز<br> +ط<br> +ظ<br> +ێ<br> +ل<br> +م<br> +ن<br> +ص<br> +ض<br> +ع<br> +غ<br> +ڢ<br> +ف<br> +س<br> +ش<br> +ه<br> +و<br> +ي<br> +<img alt="ligature" src="images/lam-alif.png"> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 45%;"><br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + +<p> +Besides this difference of the arrangement of +the two alphabets, the Arabic student will observe +that there is also a difference in the punctuation +of two of the letters: thus--</p> + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="table header 1"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 20%; text-align: center;">Oriental + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"><br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 20%; text-align: center;">Occidental + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 45%;"><br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="alphabet"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"> +1 fa<br> +2 kaf<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; text-align: right; width: 5%;"> +ف<br> +ق<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"> + + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 15%;"> +1 fa<br> +2 kaf<br> + + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 5%; text-align: right;"> +ڢ<br> +ف<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 45%;"><br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + + + +<p><a name="p360" id="p360"></a><span class="pagenum">[360]</span></p> + +<p>Among the Western Arabs, the ancient +Arabic figures are used, viz. 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, +7, 8, 9: they often write 100 thus, 1..--200, +2..</p> + +<p>To explain the force of the synonymous +letters on paper would be impossible; the reader, +however, may form some idea of the indispensable +necessity of knowing the distinction +by the few words here selected, which to one +unaccustomed to hear the Arabic language +spoken, would appear similar and undistinguishable.</p> + +<p><a name="p361" id="p361"></a><span class="pagenum">[361]</span></p><br> +<p><a name="p362" id="p362"></a><span class="pagenum">[362]</span></p> + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="lexicon-1"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%; text-align: center;"> +ENGLISH + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 50%; text-align: center;"> +ARABIC<br> +Rendered as near to European<br> +pronunciation as the English<br> +Alphabet will admit.<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%; text-align: center;"> +ARABIC + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%;"> +<br>A horse<br> +<br>Wood<br> +<br><br>To repeat<br> +<br>Fish<br> +<br><br>A gun<br> +<br>A foolish woman<br> +<br><br>A frying pan<br> +<br>A lion<br> +<br><br>Morning<br> +<br>Seventh<br> +<br><br>Hatred<br> +<br>Harvest<br> +<br><br>Learning<br> +<br>A flag<br> +<br><br>Granulated paste<br> +<br>The dish it is made in<br> +<br><br>Heart<br> +<br>Dog<br> +<br><br>Mould<br> +<br>Captain<br> +<br><br>Feathers<br> +<br>Mud<br> +<br><br>Smell<br> +<br>Poison<br> +<br><br>Absent<br> +<br>Butter-milk<br> +<br><br>White<br> +<br>A black<br> +<br><br>Eggs<br> +<br>Afar off<br> +<br><br>A pig<br> +<br>An oath<br> +<br><br>Feed for horses<br> +<br>A thousand<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 50%; text-align: center;"> +<br>Aoud<br> +<br>Awad<br> +<br><br>Aoud<br> +<br>Hout<br> +<br><br>Mokhalla<br> +<br>Mokeela<br> +<br><br>Makeela<br> +<br>Seban<br> +<br><br>Seban<br> +<br>Seban<br> +<br><br>Hassed<br> +<br>Hassed<br> +<br><br>Alem, or El Alem<br> +<br>El Alem<br> +<br><br>Kuscasoe<br> +<br>Kuscas<br> +<br><br>Kul'b<br> +<br>Kil'b<br> +<br><br>Kal'b<br> +<br>Rice<br> +<br><br>Rish<br> +<br>G'ris<br> +<br><br>Shim<br> +<br>Sim<a id="footnotetag206" name="footnotetag206"></a> +<a href="#footnote206"><sup class="sml">206</sup></a><br> +<br><br>G'raib<br> +<br>Raib<br> +<br><br>Bead<br> +<br>El Abd<br> +<br><br>Baid<br> +<br>Baid<br> +<br><br>Helloof<br> +<br>Hellef<br> +<br><br>Alf<br> +<br>Elf<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%; text-align: right;"> +<img alt="horse" src="images/360-horse.png"><br> +<img alt="wood" src="images/360-wood.png"><br> +<img alt="repeat" src="images/360-repeat.png"><br> +<img alt="fish" src="images/360-fish.png"><br> +<img alt="gun" src="images/360-gun.png"><br> +<img alt="foolish woman" src="images/360-foolish_woman.png"><br> +<img alt="frying pan" src="images/360-frying_pan.png"><br> +<img alt="lion" src="images/360-lion.png"><br> +<img alt="morning" src="images/360-morning.png"><br> +<img alt="seventh" src="images/360-seventh.png"><br> +<img alt="hatred" src="images/361-hatred.png"><br> +<img alt="harvest" src="images/361-harvest.png"><br> +<img alt="learning" src="images/361-learning.png"><br> +<img alt="flag" src="images/361-flag.png"><br> +<img alt="granulated paste" src="images/361-granulated_paste.png"><br> +<img alt="dish" src="images/361-dish.png"><br> +<img alt="heart" src="images/361-heart.png"><br> +<img alt="dog" src="images/361-dog.png"><br> +<img alt="mould" src="images/361-mould.png"><br> +<img alt="captain" src="images/361-captain.png"><br> +<img alt="feathers" src="images/361-feathers.png"><br> +<img alt="mud" src="images/361-mud.png"><br> +<img alt="smell" src="images/361-smell.png"><br> +<img alt="poison" src="images/361-poison.png"><br> +<img alt="absent" src="images/362-absent.png"><br> +<img alt="buttermilk" src="images/362-buttermilk.png"><br> +<img alt="white" src="images/362-white.png"><br> +<img alt="black" src="images/362-black.png"><br> +<img alt="eggs" src="images/362-eggs.png"><br> +<img alt="afar off" src="images/362-afar_off.png"><br> +<img alt="pig" src="images/362-pig.png"><br> +<img alt="oath" src="images/362-oath.png"><br> +<img alt="feed for horses" src="images/362-feed_for_horses.png"><br> +<img alt="thousand" src="images/362-thousand.png"><br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote206" +name="footnote206"></a><b>Footnote 206:</b><a href="#footnotetag206"> +(return) </a> The African Jews find it very difficult in speaking, to +distinguish between <i>shim</i> and <i>sim</i>, for they cannot pronounce +the <i>sh</i>, ش but sound it like <i>s</i> س ; the very few who +have studied the art of reading the language, have, however, +conquered this difficulty.</blockquote> + + +<p>It is difficult for any one who has not accurately +studied the Arabic language, to imagine +the many errors which an European commits +in speaking it, when self taught, or when +taught in Europe. This deficiency originates +in the inaccuracy of the application of the +guttural and synonymous letters.</p> + +<p>The ain ع and the غ grain cannot be accurately +<a name="p363" id="p363"></a><span class="pagenum">[363]</span> +pronounced by Europeans, who have not +studied the language grammatically when young. +The aspirated <i>h</i>, and the hard <i>s</i>, in the word +for <i>morning</i> (sebah), are so much like their +synonymes, that few Europeans can discern +the difference; the one is consequently often +mistaken for the other; and I have known +a beautiful sentence absolutely perverted through +an inaccuracy of this kind. In the words +rendered <i>Hatred</i> and <i>Harvest</i>, the two synonymes +of س and ص or <i>s</i> hard and <i>s</i> soft, are +indiscriminately used by Europeans in their +Arabic <i>conversations</i>, a circumstance sufficient +to do away the force and meaning of many a +sentence.</p> + +<p>The poetry as well as prose of the Arabians +is well known, and has been so often discussed +by learned men, that it would be irrelevant +here to expatiate on the subject; but as the +following description of the noblest passion of +the human breast cannot but be interesting to +the generality of readers, and, without any exception, +to the fair sex, I will transcribe it.</p> + +<p>"Love <img alt="love" src="images/love.png"> beginneth in contemplation, +passeth to meditation; hence proceeds +desire; then the spark bursts forth into a flame, +the head swims, the body wastes, and the soul +turns giddy. If we look on the bright side of +love, we must acknowledge that it has at least +one advantage; it annihilates pride and immoderate +self-love; true love, whose aim is the +<a name="p364" id="p364"></a><span class="pagenum">[364]</span> +happiness and equality of the beloved object, +being incompatible with those feelings.</p> + +<p>"Lust is so different from true love <img alt="love" src="images/love.png">, +and so far from a perfection, that it is always +a species of punishment sent by God, because +man has abandoned the path of his pure love."</p> + +<p>In their epistolary writing, the Arabs have +generally a regular and particular style, beginning +and ending all their letters with the name +of God, symbolically, because God is the beginning +and end of all things. The following +short specimen will illustrate this:</p> + +<p>Translation of a letter written in the Korannick +Arabic by Seedy Soliman ben Muhammed +ben Ismael, Sultan of Marocco, to his Bashaw +of Suse, &c. &c.</p> + +<p>"Praise be to the only God! for there is neither +power, nor strength, without the great and +eternal God."</p> + +<p class="mid"> L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid">Containing the Emperor's name and<br> +titles, as Soliman ben Muhamed<br> +ben Abdallah, &c, &c.</p> + +<p>"Our servant, Alkaid Abdelmelk ben Behie +Mulud, God assist, and peace be with thee, +and the mercy and grace of God be upon thee!"</p> + +<p>"We command thee forthwith to procure +and send to our exalted presence every Englishman +that has been wrecked on the coast of +Wedinoon, and to forward them hither without +delay, and diligently to succour and attend to +<a name="p365" id="p365"></a><span class="pagenum">[365]</span> +them, and may the eye of God be upon +thee!"<a id="footnotetag207" name="footnotetag207"></a> +<a href="#footnote207"><sup class="sml">207</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote207" +name="footnote207"></a><b>Footnote 207:</b><a href="#footnotetag207"> +(return) </a> When they write to any other but Muhamedans, they +never salute them with the words, "Peace be with thee," +but substitute--"Peace be to those who follow the path of +the true God," <i>Salem ala min itaba el Uda</i>.</blockquote> + +<p>"26th of the (lunar), month Saffer, year of the +Hejra 1221. (May, 1806.)"</p> + +<p>The accuracy of punctuation in the Arabic +language is a matter that ought to be strictly +attended to.</p> + +<p>The foregoing observations will serve to +prove the insufficiency of a knowledge of this +language, as professed or studied in Great +Britain when unaccompanied with a practical +knowledge. These observations may apply +equally to the Persian language.<a id="footnotetag208" name="footnotetag208"></a> +<a href="#footnote208"><sup class="sml">208</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote208" +name="footnote208"></a><b>Footnote 208:</b><a href="#footnotetag208"> +(return) </a> "One of the objects I had in view in coming to Europe, +was to instruct young Englishmen in the Persian language. +I however met with so little encouragement from persons in +authority, that I entirely relinquished the plan. I instructed, +however, (as I could not refuse the recommendations that +were brought to me,) an amiable young man, Mr. S------n, +and thanks be to God, my efforts were crowned with success! +and that he, having escaped the instructions of <i>self-taught</i> +masters, has acquired such a knowledge of the principles +of that language, and so correct an idea of its idiom +and pronunciation, that I have no doubt, after a few years' +residence in India, he will attain to such a degree of excellence, +as has not yet been acquired by any other Englishman." +Vide Travels of Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, vol. i. p. 200.</blockquote> + +<p>If the present ardour for discovery in Africa +be persevered in, the learned world may expect, +in the course of a few years, to receive histories +and other works of Greek and Roman +<a name="p366" id="p366"></a><span class="pagenum">[366]</span> +authors, which were translated into the Arabic +language, when Arabian literature was in its +zenith, and have ever since been confined to +some private libraries in the cities of the interior +of Africa, and in Arabia.</p> + +<p>Having said thus much with regard to the +Arabic of the western Arabs, which, with little +variation, is spoken throughout all the finest +districts of North Africa, I shall proceed to say +a few words respecting the other languages +spoken north of Sahara: these are the Berebber +and its dialects, viz. the Zayan and Girwan, and +Ait Amor; the Shelluh of Suse and South +Atlas, all which, though latterly supposed by +some learned men to be the same, differ in +many respects; any one possessing a knowledge +of the Berebber language might, with +little difficulty, make himself understood by the +Zayan of Atlas, the Girwan, or the Ait Amor; +but the Shelluh is a different language, and each +so different from the Arabic, that there is not +the smallest resemblance, as the following specimen +will demonstrate:</p> + +<p><a name="p367" id="p367"></a><span class="pagenum">[367]</span></p> + +<pre> +BEREBBER. SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. +Tumtoot Tayelt Ishira A girl +Ajurode Ayel Ishire A boy +Askan Tarousa Hajar A thing +Aram Algrom Jimmel Camel +Tamtute Tamraut Murrah A woman +Ishiar Issemg'h L'Abd A slave +Aouli Izimer Kibsh A sheep +Taddert Tikimie Dar House +Ikshuden Asroen Lawad Wood +Eekeel Akfai Hellib Milk +Tifihie Uksume El Ham Meat +Buelkiel Amuran Helloof A hog +Abreede Agares Trek A road +Bishee Fikihie Ara Give me +Adude Asht Agi Come +Alkam Aftooh Cire Go +Kaym Gäuze Jils Sit down +Imile Imeek Serire Little +</pre> + +<p><a name="p368" id="p368"></a><span class="pagenum">[368]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"> +<i>Specimen of the Difference between the Arabic +and Shelluh Languages.</i></p><br> + +<pre> +SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. +Is sin Tamazirkt Wash katarf Do you understand + Shelluh Shelluh? +Uree sin Man arf huh I do not understand it. +Matshrult Kif enta How are you? +Is tekeete Wash gite min Are you come from + Marokshe Marockshe Marocco? +Egan ras Miliah Good +Maigan Ala'sh Wherefore? +Misimmink As'mek What is your name? +Mensh kat dirk Shall andik How much have you got? +Tasardunt Borella A mule +Romi Romi An European +Takannarit Nasarani A Christian +Romi Kaffer An infidel +Misem Bebans Ashkune mula Who is the owner? +Is'tkit Tegriwelt Washjite min Are you come from + Tegriwelt Cape Ossem? +Auweete Imkelli Jib Liftor Bring the dinner +Efoulkie Meziana Handsome +Ayeese El aoud A horse +Tikelline El Baid Eggs +Amuran Helloof Hog +Tayuh Tatta Camelion +Tasamumiat Adda Green lizard +Tenawine Sfune Ships. +</pre> + +<p>Marmol says, the Shelluhs and Berebbers +write and speak one language, called Killem +Abimalick<a id="footnotetag209" name="footnotetag209"></a> +<a href="#footnote209"><sup class="sml">209</sup></a>; but the foregoing specimen, the +accuracy of which may be depended on, clearly +proves this assertion to be erroneous, as well +as that of many moderns who have formed +their opinion, in all probability, on the +above authority. Now, although the Shelluh +and Berebber languages are so totally dissimilar, +that there is not one word in the foregoing +vocabulary which resembles its corresponding +word in the other language, yet, from +the prejudice which Marmol's authority has +<a name="p369" id="p369"></a><span class="pagenum">[369]</span> +established, it will still be difficult, perhaps, +to persuade the learned that such an author +could be mistaken on such a subject. My +account therefore must remain for a future age +to determine upon, when the languages of +Africa shall be better known than they are at +present; for it is not a few travellers occasionally +sent out on a limited plan, that can +ascertain facts, the attainment of which requires +a long residence, and familiar intercourse with +the natives. Marmol had also misled the +world, in saying that they write a different +language; the fact is, that when they write any +thing of consequence, it is in the Arabic; but +any trifling subject is written in the Berebber +words, though in the Arabic character. If they +had any peculiar character in the time of +Marmol, they have none now; for I have conversed +with hundreds of them, as well as with +the Shelluhs, and have had them staying at my +house for a considerable time together, but +never could learn from any, that a character +different from the Arabic had ever been in use +among them.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote209" +name="footnote209"></a><b>Footnote 209:</b><a href="#footnotetag209"> +(return) </a> Killem Abimalick signifies the Language of Abimalick; +this is evidently an error of Marmol, the Shelluh language +is denominated <i>Amazirk</i>; the Berebber Language is denominated +<i>Killem Brebber</i>.</blockquote> + +<p>In addition to these languages, there is +another spoken at the Oasis of Ammon, or +Siwah, called in Arabic <img alt="El Wah" src="images/ElWah.png"> El Wah +El Grarbie, which appears to be a mixture of +Berebber and Shelluh, as will appear from the +list of Siwahan words given by Mr. Horneman<a id="footnotetag210" name="footnotetag210"></a> +<a href="#footnote210"><sup class="sml">210</sup></a>, +<a name="p370" id="p370"></a><span class="pagenum">[370]</span> +in his Journal, page 19, part of which I have +here transcribed, to show the similitude between +those two languages, whereby it will +appear that the language of Siwah and that of +the Shelluhs of South Atlas, are one and the +same language.</p> + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="Lexicon 2"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 33%;"> +ENGLISH.<br> +Sun<br> +Head<br> +Camel<br> +Sheep<br> +Cow<br> +Mountain<br> +Have you a horse?<br> +Milk<br> +Bread<br> +Dates<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 33%;"> +SIWAHAN.<br> +Itfuckt<br> +Achfé<br> +Lgum<br> +Jelibb<br> +Tfunest<br> +Iddrarn<br> +Goreck Ackmar<br> +Achi<br> +Tagor<br> +Tena<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 34%;"> +SHELLUH.<br> +Atfuct<br> +Akfie<br> +Arume<br> +Jelibb<br> +Tafunest<br> +Iddra<a id="footnotetag211" name="footnotetag211"></a> +<a href="#footnote211"><sup class="sml">211</sup></a><br> +Is derk Achmar?<a id="footnotetag212" name="footnotetag212"></a> +<a href="#footnote212"><sup class="sml">212</sup></a><br> +Akfie<br> +Tagora<a id="footnotetag213" name="footnotetag213"></a> +<a href="#footnote213"><sup class="sml">213</sup></a><br> +Tenia (sing.)Tena (plural.)<br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + +<p>South of the Desert we find other languages +spoken by the blacks; and are told by Arabs, +who have frequently performed the journey +from Jinnie to Cairo, and the Red Sea, that +thirty-three different Negro languages are met +<a name="p371" id="p371"></a><span class="pagenum">[371]</span> +with in the course of that route, but that the +Arabic is spoken by the intelligent part of the +people, and the Muhamedan religion is known +and followed by many; their writings are uniformly +in Arabic.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote210" +name="footnote210"></a><b>Footnote 210:</b><a href="#footnotetag210"> +(return) </a> In reading Mr. William Marsden's observations on the +language of Siwah, at the end of Horneman's Journal, in +page 190, I perceive that the short vocabulary inserted +corresponds with a vocabulary of the Shelluh language, +which I presented to that gentleman some years past.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote211" +name="footnote211"></a><b>Footnote 211:</b><a href="#footnotetag211"> +(return) </a> Plural Iddrarn.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote212" +name="footnote212"></a><b>Footnote 212:</b><a href="#footnotetag212"> +(return) </a> Or, Is derk ayeese?</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote213" +name="footnote213"></a><b>Footnote 213:</b><a href="#footnotetag213"> +(return) </a> This is applied to bread when baked in a pan, or over +the embers of charcoal, or other fire; but when baked in +an oven it is called Agarom (g guttural.)</blockquote> + +<p>It may not be improper in this place, seeing +the many errors and mutilated translations +which appear from time to time, of Arabic, +Turkish and Persian papers, to give a list of the +Muhamedan moons or lunar months, used by +all those nations, which begin with the first appearance +of the new moon, that is, the day following, +or sometimes two days after the change, +and continue till they see the next new moon; +these have been mutilated to such a degree in +all our English translations, that I shall give +them, in the original Arabic character, and as +they ought to be spelt and pronounced in the +English character, as a clue whereby to calculate +the correspondence between our year +and theirs. They divide the year into 12 +months, which contain 29 or 30 days, according +as they see the new moon; the first day of the +month Muharam is termed <img alt="" src="images/371-Muharam_is_termed.png"> Ras +Elame, i.e. the beginning of the year.</p> + +<p>As we are more used to the Asiatic mode of +punctuation, that will be observed in these +words.</p> +<p><a name="p372" id="p372"></a><span class="pagenum">[372]</span></p> + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="Lexicon 3"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 30%;"> +<br>Muharam<br> +<br><br>Asaffer<br> +<br><br>Arabia Elule<br> +<br>Arabea Atthenie<br> +<br><br>Jumad Elule<br> +<br>Jumad Athenie<br> +<br><br>Rajeb<br> +<br>Shaban<br> +<br><br>Ramadan<br> +<br>Shual<br> +<br><br>Du'elkada<br> +<br>Du Elhajah <br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 30%; text-align: right;"> +<img alt="Muharam" src="images/371-Muharam.png"><br> +<img alt="Asaffer" src="images/371-Asaffer.png"><br> +<img alt="Arabia Elule" src="images/372-Arabia_Elule.png"><br> +<img alt="Arabea Atthenie" src="images/372-Arabea_Atthenie.png"><br> +<img alt="Junad Elule" src="images/372-Jumad_Elule.png"><br> +<img alt="Junad Athenie" src="images/372-Jumad_Athenie.png"><br> +<img alt="Rajeb" src="images/372-Rajeb.png"><br> +<img alt="Shaban" src="images/372-Shaban.png"><br> +<img alt="Ramadan" src="images/372-Ramadan.png"><br> +<img alt="Shual" src="images/372-Shual.png"><br> +<img alt="Du'elkada" src="images/372-Du_elkada.png"><br> +<img alt="Du Elhajah" src="images/372-Du_Elhajah.png"><br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 40%;"><br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + + +<p>The first of Muharram, year of the Hejra +1221, answers to the 19th March of the Christian +æra, 1806.</p> + +<p>Among the various languages spoken south +of the Sahara, we have already observed +that there are thirty-three different ones between +the Western Ocean and the Red Sea, +following the shores of the Nile El Abeed, or +Niger: among all these nations and empires, a +man practically acquainted with the Arabic, +may always make himself understood, and +indeed, it is the language most requisite to +be known for every traveller in these extensive +regions.</p> + +<p>The Mandinga is spoken from the banks of +the Senegal, where that river takes a northerly +course from the Jibel Kuthera to the kingdom +<a name="p373" id="p373"></a><span class="pagenum">[373]</span> +of Bambarra; the Wangareen tongue is a different +one; and the Housonians speak a language +differing again from that.</p> + +<p><i>Specimen of the difference between the Arabic and +Mandinga language; the words of the latter +extracted from the vocabularies of Seedi Muhamed +ben Amer Sudani.</i></p> + +<p><a name="p374" id="p374"></a><span class="pagenum">[374]</span></p><br> +<p><a name="p375" id="p375"></a><span class="pagenum">[375]</span></p><br> +<p><a name="p376" id="p376"></a><span class="pagenum">[376]</span></p><br> +<p><a name="p377" id="p377"></a><span class="pagenum">[377]</span></p><br> + +<pre> +ENGLISH. MANDINGA. ARABIC. + +One Kalen Wahud +Two Fula Thanine +Three Seba Thalata +Four Nani Arba +Five Lulu Kumsa +Six Uruh Setta +Seven Urn'klu Sebba +Eight Säae Timinia +Nine Kanuntée Taseud +Ten Dan Ashra +Eleven Dan kalen Ahud ash +Twelve Dan fula Atenashe +Thirteen Dan seba Teltashe +Nineteen Dankanartée Tasatasli +Twenty Mulu Ashreen +Thirty Mulu nintau Thalateen +Forty Mulu fula Arbä'in +Fifty Mulu fula neentan Kumseen +Sixty Mulu sebaa Setteen +Seventy Mulu sebaa nintan Sebä'in. +Eighty Mulu nani T'aramana'een +Ninety Mulu nani neentaan Tasa'een +One hundred Kemi Mia +One thousand Uli Elf +This Neen Hadda +That Waleem Hadduk +Great Bawa Kabeer +Little Nadeen Sereer +Handsome Nimawa Zin +Ugly Nuta Uksheen (k guttur.) +White Kie Bead +Black Feen Khal +Red Williamma Hummer +How do you do? Nimbana mcuntania Kif-enta +Well Kantée Ala-khere +Not well Moon kanti Murrede +What do you want Ala feta matume Ash-bright +Sit down Siduma Jils +Get up Ounilee Node +Sour Akkumula Hamd +Sweet Timiata Helluh +True Aituliala Hack +False Funiala Kadube +Good Abatee Miliah +Bad Minbatee Kubiah +A witch Bua Sahar +A lion Jatta Sebaâ +An elephant Samma El fele +A hyæna Salua Dubbah +A wild boar Siwa El kunjer +A water horse Mali Aoud d'Elma +A horse Suhuwa Aoud +A camel Kumaniun Jimmel +A dog Wallee Killeb +Hel el Killeb Hel Wallee Hel El Killeb +or the dog-faced +race. +A gazel Tankeen Gazel (g guttural) +A cat Niankune El mish +A goat Baâ El mâize +A sheep Kurenale Kibsh +A bull Nisakia Toôr +A serpent Saâ Hensh +A camelion Mineer Tatta +An ape Ku'nee Dzatute +A fowl or chicken Susee Djez +A duck Beruee El Weese +A fish Hihu El hout +Butter Tulu Zibda +Milk Nunn El hellib +Bread Mengu El khubs (k guttur.) +Corn Nieu Zra +Wine Tangee Kummer (k guttur.) +Honey Alee Asel +Sugar Tobabualee Sukar +Salt Kuee Mil'h +Ambergris Anber Anber +Brass Tass Tass +Silver Kudee Nukra +Gold-dust Teber Tiber +Pewter Tass ki Kusdeer +A bow Kula El kos +An arrow Binia Zerag +A knife Muru Jenui +A spoon Kulia Mogerfa +A bed El arun El ferrashe +A lamp El kundeel El kundeel +A house Su Ed dar +A room Bune El beet +A light-hole Jinnee Reehâha +or window +A door Daa Beb +A town Kinda Midina +Smoke Sezee Tkan (k guttural) +Heat Kandia Skanna (k guttural) +Cold Nini Berd +Sea Bedu baha Bahar +River Bedu Wed +A rock Berri Jerf +Sand Kinnikanni Rummel +The earth Binku Dunia +Mountain Kuanku Jibbel +Island Juchüi Dzeera +Rain Sanjukalaeen Shta +God Allah Allah +Father Fa Ba +Mother Ba Ma +Hell Jahennum Jehennume +A man Kia Rajil +A woman Musa Murrah +A sister Bum musa Kat (k guttural) +A brother Bum kia Ka +The devil Buhau Iblis +A white man Tebabu Rajil biad +A singer Jalikea Runai (r guttural) +A singing woman Jalimusa Runaiah (r guttural) +A slave June Abeed +A servant Bettela Mutalem +</pre> + +<p>Having now given some account of the languages +of Africa, we shall proceed to animadvert +on the similitude of language and customs between +the Shelluhs of Atlas and the original +inhabitants of the Canary Islands. The words +between inverted commas, are quotations from +Glasse's History of the Discovery and Conquest +of the Canary Islands.</p> + +<p>"The inhabitants of Lancerotta and Fuertaventura +are social and cheerful;" like the +Shelluhs of Atlas; "they are fond of singing +and dancing; their music is vocal, accompanied +with a clapping of hands, and beating +with their feet;" the Shelluhs resemble them +in all these respects; "Their houses are built +of stone, without cement; the entrance is +narrow, so that but one person can enter at a +time."</p> + +<p>The houses of the Shelluhs are sometimes +<a name="p378" id="p378"></a><span class="pagenum">[378]</span> +built without cement, but always with stone; +the doors and entrances are low and small, so +that one person only can enter.</p> + +<p>"In their temples they offered to their God +milk and butter."</p> + +<p>Among the Shelluhs milk and butter are +given as presents to princes and great men; the +milk being an emblem of good will and candour.</p> + +<p>"When they were sick (which seldom happened) +they cured themselves with the herbs +which grew in the country; and when they +had acute pains, they scarified the part affected +with sharp stones, and burned it with fire, and +then anointed it with goat's butter. Earthen +vessels of this goat's butter were found interred +in the ground, having been put there by the +women, who were the makers, and took that +method of preparing it for medicine."</p> + +<p>The custom of the Shelluhs on such occasions +is exactly similar; the butter which they +use is old, and is buried under ground many +years in (<i>bukul</i>) earthen pots, and is called +<i>budra</i>: it is a general medicine, and is said to +possess a remarkably penetrating quality.</p> + +<p>"They grind their barley in a hand-mill, +made of two stones, being similar to those used +in some remote parts of Europe".</p> + +<p>In Suse, among the Shelluhs, they grind +their corn in the same way, and barley is the +principal food.</p> + +<p>"Their breeches are short, leaving the knees +bare;" so are those worn by the Shelluhs. +<a name="p379" id="p379"></a><span class="pagenum">[379]</span></p> + +<p>"Their common food was barley meal roasted +and mixed with goat's milk and butter, and this +dish they call Asamotan."</p> + +<p>This is the common food of the Shelluhs +of Atlas, and they call it by a similar name, +Azamitta.</p> + +<p>The opinion of the author of the History and +Conquest of the Canary Islands, is, that the +inhabitants came originally from Mauritania, +and this he founds on the resemblance of names +of places in Africa and in the islands: "for," +says he, "Telde<a id="footnotetag214" name="footnotetag214"></a> +<a href="#footnote214"><sup class="sml">214</sup></a>, which is the name of the +oldest habitation in Canaria, Orotaba, and +Tegesta, are all names which we find given to +places in Mauritania and in Mount Atlas. It +is to be supposed that Canaria, Fuertaventura, +and Lancerotta, were peopled by the Alarbes<a id="footnotetag215" name="footnotetag215"></a> +<a href="#footnote215"><sup class="sml">215</sup></a>, +who are the nation most esteemed in Barbary; +for the natives of those islands named +milk <i>Aho</i>, and barley <i>Temecin</i>, which are the +names that are given to those things in the +language of the Alarbes of Barbary." He +adds, that--</p> + +<p>"Among the books of a library that was in +the cathedral of St. Anna in Canaria, there was +found one so disfigured, that it wanted both +the beginning and the end: it treated of the +Romans, and gave an account, that when +<a name="p380" id="p380"></a><span class="pagenum">[380]</span> +Africa was a Roman province, the natives of +Mauritania rebelled and killed their presidents +and governors, upon which the senate, resolving +to punish and make a severe example of the +rebels, sent a powerful army into Mauritania, +which vanquished and reduced them again to +obedience. Soon after the ringleaders of the +rebellion were put to death, and the tongues of +the common people, together with those of their +wives and children, were cut out, and then +they were all put aboard vessels with some +grain and cattle, and transported to the Canary +islands."<a id="footnotetag216" name="footnotetag216"></a> +<a href="#footnote216"><sup class="sml">216</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote214" +name="footnote214"></a><b>Footnote 214:</b><a href="#footnotetag214"> +(return) </a> Telde or Tildie is a place in the Atlas mountains, three +miles east of Agadeer; the castle is in ruins.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote215" +name="footnote215"></a><b>Footnote 215:</b><a href="#footnotetag215"> +(return) </a> The Alarbes, this is the name that the inhabitants of +Lower Suse and Sahara have, <i>El Arab</i> or Arabs.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote216" +name="footnote216"></a><b>Footnote 216:</b><a href="#footnotetag216"> +(return) </a> One Thomas Nicols, who lived seven years in the +Canary Islands, and wrote a history of them, says, that the +best account he could get of the origin of the natives, was, +that they were exiles from Africa, banished thence by the +Romans, who cut out their tongues for blaspheming +their gods.</blockquote> + +<p>The following vocabulary will show the similarity +of language between the natives of Canaria +and the Shelluhs (inhabitants of the Atlas +mountains south of Marocco).</p> + +<p><a name="p381" id="p381"></a><span class="pagenum">[381]</span></p> + +<pre> +LANCEROTTA AND SHELLUH OR ENGLISH. +FUERTAVENTURA DIALECT. LYBIAN TONGUE. + +Temasin Tumzeen Barley +Tezzezes Tezezreat Sticks +Taginaste Taginast A palm-tree +Tahuyan Tahuyat A blanket, + covering, or petticoat. +Ahemon Amen Water +Faycag Faquair Priest or lawyer +Acoran M'koorn God +Almogaren Talmogaren Temples +Tamoyanteen Tigameen Houses +Tawacen Tamouren Hogs +Archormase Akermuse Green figs +Azamotan Azamittan Barley meal fried in oil +Tigot Tigot Heaven +Tigotan Tigotan The Heavens +Thener Athraar A mountain +Adeyhaman Douwaman A hollow valley +Ahico Tahayk A hayk, or coarse garment +Kabeheira Kabeera A head man or a powerful +Ahoren ---- Barley meal roasted +Ara ---- A goat +Ana ---- A sheep +Tagarer ---- A place of justice +</pre> + + +<p>Benehoare, the name of the natives of Palma.<br> + +Beni Hoarie, a tribe of Arabs in Suse between +Agadeer and Terodant.<a id="footnotetag217" name="footnotetag217"></a> +<a href="#footnote217"><sup class="sml">217</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote217" +name="footnote217"></a><b>Footnote 217:</b><a href="#footnotetag217"> +(return) </a> For further particulars, see Glasse's History of the +Canary Islands, 4to. page 174.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p382" id="p382"></a><span class="pagenum">[382]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h3>TITLES</h3> + +<h5>OF</h5> + +<h2>THE EMPEROR OF MAROCCO,</h2> + +<h3>STYLE OF ADDRESSING HIM,</h3> + +<h5>AND</h5> + +<h3>SPECIMENS OF EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE.</h3> + +<hr class="short"> + +<h3> +<i>THE TITLES OF THE EMPEROR</i></h3> + +<h5>ARE</h5> + +<p><i>Servant of God.</i></p> + +<p><i>Commander, Captain, or Leader of the</i> (Mumeneen) +<i>Faithful</i> [i.e. in Muhamed], <i>upheld by the +Grace of God</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Prince of Hassenee. Ever supported by God.</i></p> + +<p><i>Sultan of Fas, of Maroksh</i> [Marocco], <i>of Suse, +and of Draha, and of Tafilelt and Tuat, together +with all the kabyles</i> [tribes] <i>of the West, and of +the Berebbers of Atlas, &c.</i></p> + +<p>The Sultan calls his soldiers (<i>ketteffee</i>) "my +shoulders or support, or strength;" his subjects +he calls his sons (<i>woledee</i>), and himself the father +of his people.</p> + +<p>N.B. The Hejra, or Muhamedan æra began +A.D. 622. The Muhamedan years are lunar, +33 of which are about 32 solar years. +<a name="p383" id="p383"></a><span class="pagenum">[383]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<h3>THE STYLE</h3> + +<h4>USED BY MUSELMEN,</h4> + +<h3><i>IN ADDRESSING THE EMPEROR,</i></h3> + +<h5>IS AS FOLLOWS:</h5> + +<p>"Sultan of exalted dignity, whom God preserve. +May the Almighty protect that royal +purity, and bestow happiness, increase of wealth, +and prosperity on the nation of believers +[i.e. in Muhamed], whose welfare and power +is attributed entirely to the favour and benevolence +of the Exalted God."</p> + +<p>The Sultan is head of the ecclesiastical, military, +and civil law, and is universally considered +by his subjects God's Vicegerent, or Lieutenant +on Earth. All letters written to his Imperial +Majesty, are begun with the praise of God, +and with the acknowledgment, (in opposition to +idolatry,) that there is neither beginning nor +power but what proceeds from God, the +eternal God, (<i>La hule û la kûa ela billa, Allah +el adeem</i>.) +<a name="p384" id="p384"></a><span class="pagenum">[384]</span></p> +<br> + +<h2>SPECIMENS</h2> + +<h4>OF</h4> + +<h3><i>MUHAMEDAN EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE.</i></h3> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p> +<i>The following Letters are literal translations from the original +Arabic, and, although not of great importance, yet it is +some satisfaction to the enquiring mind, to observe the +various modes of address, and to note the style of Epistolary +Correspondence practised by the Muhamedans, +which is so different from that which is used among +European and other nations.</i> +</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p class="mid">LETTER I.</p> + +<p><i>From Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, to Captain +Kirke at Tangier; Ambassador from King Charles the +Second, dated 7th Du Elkadah, in the 1093d Year of +the Hejra, (corresponding to the 27th October, +A. D, 1682</i>.)</p> + +<p>Praise be to God, the most High alone! and +the blessing of God be upon those who are for +his prophet.</p> + +<p>From the shereef<a id="footnotetag218" name="footnotetag218"></a> +<a href="#footnote218"><sup class="sml">218</sup></a>, the servant of God, who +putteth his trust in God, the commander of the +p. 385 +faithful, who is courageous in the way of the +omniscient God.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote218" +name="footnote218"></a><b>Footnote 218:</b><a href="#footnotetag218"> +(return) </a> Shereef is a general term in the Arabic for a prince, king, +or emperor, signifying royal blood.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid">L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid"> +Ismael Son of a shereef; God illumine<br> +and preserve him.</p> + +<p>God assist his commanders, and give victory +to his forces and armies, Amen! To the captain +of Tangier, Kirke, <i>peace be to those who +follow the right way</i>;<a id="footnotetag219" name="footnotetag219"></a> +<a href="#footnote219"><sup class="sml">219</sup></a> this by way of preface. +Your letter came to the lofty place of our +residence, and we understand what your discourse +contained. As for the asking a cessation +of arms by sea; know, that it was not treated of +between us till this present time. Neither did +we make truce with you concerning any thing +but Tangier alone. When you came to our +illustrious house, we treated with you about +that matter for four years, and if you had +sojourned there yourself, no Muselman would +ever have gone into that town hostilely against +you, but merely as a peaceable merchant.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote219" +name="footnote219"></a><b>Footnote 219:</b><a href="#footnotetag219"> +(return) </a> This is a sentence which frequently occurs in the Koran, +but when used in epistolary correspondence with Christians +(for it is never used by Muhamedans between themselves), +it bears the appearance of a salutation, but the allusion is to +Muhamedans, who <i>these people think</i> are the only men who +follow the true path or right way; it is, however, a compliment +to all who <i>think themselves</i> in the right way.</blockquote> + +<p>As to a cessation of arms by sea, it was not +negociated by us, neither did we discourse about +it; but, when you desired it of us, we wrote to +your Master in England, saying, If you desire +<a name="p386" id="p386"></a><span class="pagenum">[386]</span> +a cessation of arms by sea, and are willing to receive +a firm peace from us, send us two understanding +men, of the chief of the Divan of +England, by whom the peace of all the Christians +here may be confirmed; and, when they shall +arrive at the lofty place of our residence, and +sit before us, whatsoever they shall hear from us, +by way of agreement, shall be acceded to! And +we have given you security, at sea, for four +months, viz. from the time we sent you our letter +to Tangier, till the day that there shall come an +answer from your Master, and until the arrival +of the two ambassadors aforementioned, after +the aforesaid manner. As for those men who in +thy letter thou didst say were taken at sea: I +neither know nor have heard any thing of them. +Your discourse about that matter having been +with Aly ben Abdallah, and he administered justice +(to you) upon the Muselmen who had taken +these men prisoners for the sake of him, for +whom you made your complaint to us; and he +returned the Christians to you, and imprisoned +the sailors for capturing them. Now, if there +shall happen to be a peace between me and you +at sea, as there is for four years by land, through +your mediation, and by reason of your coming +to us, I will hang them, and blot out their footsteps, +and be revenged on them with the most +severe revenge.</p> + +<p>Our servant Muhamed ben Hadu Aater, who +came from your presence, told us that lions are +scarce in your country, and that they are in high +<a name="p387" id="p387"></a><span class="pagenum">[387]</span> +estimation, with you. When your servant came +to us, he found we had two small young lions, +wherefore by him we send them to you. And +know, that we have received by our servants +from your Master, <i>three</i> coach-horses, now a +coach requires <i>four</i> horses to draw it, wherefore +you must needs send us another good one of the +same kind and size, that they may draw the +coach with four horses. Oblige us in this by all +means. Farewell: we depend upon it.</p> + +<p>Written 7th of the sacred month <i>Du El +Kadah</i>, in the year of the Hejra, ninety-three +and a thousand, (A.D. 1682.)</p> +<br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER II.</p> + +<p><i>From the same Muley Ismael to Sir Cloudesly Shovel, on +board the Charles Galley, off Salee, written Aug. 26. +A.D. 1684, year of the Hejra 1095</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid"> +L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid">I, servant of God, and Emperor of<br> +Marocco and King of Mauritania,<br> +whom God preserve in all<br> +his undertakings, &c. +</p> + +<p>I Salute you and the rest of the captains.</p> + +<p>As for the captives you have taken, they belong +to several places, and are not all my subjects; +and what I do is out of charity, as they are Muhamedans, +being forced to go to sea for want of +maintenance. As for those that are my soldiers, +they go to sea to fight and to die in my quarrels; +<a name="p388" id="p388"></a><span class="pagenum">[388]</span> +but, those <i>Moors</i> that <i>you</i> have taken, are inconsiderable +and of no account.</p> + +<p>Henceforward I shall have ships as big as +yours, if not bigger, hoping to take some of your +ships and captains, and cruise for you in your +English seas, as you do for us in these.</p> + +<p>I have written letters to the King of England, +in which are kind expressions: And when you +had Tangier, all things were given to you as +you wanted, and all done out of kindness; and +now that you have left Tangier for the Moors, +whatever His Majesty of Great Britain wants, +either by sea or by land, it shall be granted, so +that there be a peace betwixt the two crowns; +for which I pass my word and faith.</p> + +<p>Now, <i>I have written several letters to his Majesty +of Great Britain, to which I have received as +yet no answer</i>; but, when it (the answer) reaches +my hands, I hope there will be a good accommodation +between us.</p> + +<p>You have taken several of our ships and destroyed +others, and you are cruising on our coast, +which is not the way to make a good peace, +neither the actions of honesty in you.</p> + +<p>God be praised that you have quitted Tangier +and left it to us, to whom it did belong: from +henceforward we shall keep it well supplied with +stores, for it is the best port of our dominions.</p> + +<p>As for the captives you have taken, you may +do as you please with them, heaving them into +the sea, or otherwise destroying them. The +<a name="p389" id="p389"></a><span class="pagenum">[389]</span> +English merchants that are here resident, shall +satisfy all their debts, which being done, none +of them shall remain in my country.</p><br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER. III.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Captain Shovel's Answer</i>.</p> + +<p>May it please Your Majesty,</p> + +<p>We, the King of England's captains, return +Your Majesty humble thanks for your kind +wishes to us. Your Majesty by this may know, +that we have received your letter, and by it we +understand, that Your Majesty is informed that +most of these people that are taken are not your +subjects. We perceive by this, as well as in +other things, how grossly Your Majesty has +been deceived by those people you trust; else, +we doubt not, but that, long before this, our +Master, whom God preserve, and Your Majesty +had accommodated all differences, and we should +have had a firm peace.</p> + +<p>Of those fifty-three slaves that are here, (excepting +two or three,) they are all Moors of their +own country, as they themselves can make +appear; but, if they are to be disowned because +they are poor, the Lord help them!! Your +Majesty tells us, that we may throw them overboard, +if we please: all this we very well know; +but we are Christians, and they bear the form +of men, which is reason enough for us not +to do so. +<a name="p390" id="p390"></a><span class="pagenum">[390]</span></p> + +<p>As to Tangier, our Master kept it twenty-one +years; and the world is sensible, that in spite of +all your force, he could, if he had pleased, have +continued to keep it to the world's end; for, he +levelled your walls, filled up your harbour, and +demolished your houses, in the face of your +Alkaid and his army; and when he had done, he +left your +<a id="footnotetag220" name="footnotetag220"></a> +<a href="#footnote220"><sup class="sml">220</sup></a> barren country (without the loss of a +man) for your own people to starve in: but our +departure from thence, long before this, we doubt +not, but you have repented of. When you tell +us of those mighty ships Your Majesty intends +to build and send to our coast, you must excuse +us if we think ourselves the better judges; for +we know, as to shipping, what you are able +to do.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote220" +name="footnote220"></a><b>Footnote 220:</b><a href="#footnotetag220"> +(return) </a> The gallant and magnanimous captain was better acquainted +with the coast than with the country, which is any +thing but barren.</blockquote> + +<p>If you think fit to redeem those slaves, at 100 +dollars a-piece, they are at Your Majesty's service, +and the rest shall be sent to you; or, if +you think fit to give us so many English in exchange, +we shall be well satisfied; but we think +you will hardly comply with that, for the poorest +slave that ever our Master redeemed out of <i>your</i> +country, cost him 200 dollars; and some of these +five times that sum, for he freely extended his +charity to all, and never forgets his people <i>because +they are poor</i>. +<a name="p391" id="p391"></a><span class="pagenum">[391]</span></p> + +<p>It is great wonder to us, that you should tax us +with unjust proceedings in taking your ships in +time of truce, when Your Majesty may remember +that, during the time your ambassador was in +England, your corsairs took about twenty sail of +my Master's ships; and this very year, you have +fitted out all the force in your kingdom to sea, +who have taken several of our ships, and at the +same time pretend to a truce for peace! But +some of your ships, for their unjust dealings, +have had their reward, and the rest, when they +shall come to sea, we doubt not but God Almighty +will put them into our hands.</p> + +<p>If Your Majesty think fit to send proposals to +my Master concerning peace, I shall take care +for the speedy and safe conveyance of the same. +I desire Your Majesty's speedy answer; for I do +not intend to stay long before Salee.</p> + +<p>Wishing Your Majesty long life and happiness, +I subscribe myself, Your Majesty's</p> + +<p> +Most obedient and humble Servant,</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">Cloudesly Shovel</span>.</p> + +<p>Sept. 1684 A.D. +</p> + +<p><a name="p392" id="p392"></a><span class="pagenum">[392]</span></p> +<br><br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER IV.</p> + +<p><i>A literal Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's +Letter to Queen Anne, in the year of our Lord +1710, extracted from the Harl. MSS. 7525</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid"> +L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid">In the name of the most<br> +merciful God. +</p> + +<p> +He that depends upon God goeth straight to +the right way. From the servant of God, the +Emperor of the believers, who maketh war for +the cause of the Lord of both worlds, Ismael ben +Assherif Al Hassanee to the Queen of the English, +nay of England, and the mistress of the great +parliament thereof, happiness to every one that +followeth the right way, and believes in God, +and is so directed.</p> + +<p>This premised, we have heard from more than +one of the comers and goers from thy country, +that thou hast seized our Armenian servant, a +person of great esteem. We sent him to thee, +to compose a difference between us and thee, +and we wrote to thee concerning him, that thou +shouldst use him well. Then, after this, we +heard that thou didst set him at liberty: And +wherefore didst thou seize him? Hath he exceeded +any covenant, or hath he made any covenant +with thee and broke it? We should not +have sent him to thee, but on account of our +knowledge and assurance of his understanding +<a name="p393" id="p393"></a><span class="pagenum">[393]</span> +and integrity; and when he resolved upon his +journey into your country, we gave him directions +to dispatch some of our affairs. Wherefore +we wrote unto thee concerning him, and said, +If thou hast any necessity or business with us, +he will convey it to us from thee. And we said +unto thee, Speak with him, and whatsoever thou +sayest unto him, he will communicate unto us, +without addition or diminution.</p> + +<p>As for what our servant Alkaid Ali ben Abdallah +did to ----, the Christian, thy servant, +by God we know nothing of it, nor gave him +any permission as to any thing that passed between +them; and, at the instant that we heard +that he had taken thy man, we commanded him +to set him at liberty forthwith; and since then +we have never manifested any favour to Alkaid +Ali, nor was our mind ever right towards him +afterwards till he died.</p> + +<p>Our Christian servant, the merchant, Bayly, +told us, that thou hadst a mind to an ostrich, +and we gave him two, a male and a female, +which shall come to you, if God will. And, lo! +a secretary, our servant, (who is much esteemed +by us,) when he cometh he shall bring what +goods he hath collected with him, if it please +God. And we are in expectation of thy messenger +the ambassador; and if he comes, he +shall see nothing from us but what is fair; and +we will deliver to him the Christians, and do +what he pleases, if God will. Wherefore be kind +to our servant, with respect. +<a name="p394" id="p394"></a><span class="pagenum">[394]</span></p> + +<p>Written the first of the Glorious Ramadan, in +the year of the Hejra 1125 (corresponding with +A.D. 1710).</p> +<br><br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER V.</p> + +<p><i>Translation of an Arabic Letter from the Sultan Seedi +Muhamed<a id="footnotetag221" name="footnotetag221"></a> +<a href="#footnote221"><sup class="sml">221</sup></a> ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the +European Consuls resident at Tangier, delivered to each +of them, by the Bashaw of the province of El Grarb, on +1st day of June, 1788, corresponding with the year of +the Hejra, 1202</i>.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote221" +name="footnote221"></a><b>Footnote 221:</b><a href="#footnotetag221"> +(return) </a> Father of the present Sultan Soliman ben Muhamed.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"> +L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid">Mohamed ben Abdallah, ben<br> +Ismael, Sultan ben, Sultan,<br> +&c. +</p> + +<p>In the name of God, for there is no power or +strength but from God.</p> + +<p>To all the Consuls at Tangier.</p> + +<p>Peace (be) to those who follow the right path.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">By</span> this you will learn that we are in peace +and friendship with all the Christian powers until +the month of May of the next year, (of the Hejra, +1203,) and such nations as shall then be desirous +to continue in peace and friendship with us, are +to write a letter to us, when the month of May +comes, to inform us if they are in peace and +friendship with us, then we shall be the same +with them; but, if any Christian nation desire +to go to war with us, they will let us know before +<a name="p395" id="p395"></a><span class="pagenum">[395]</span> +the month above-mentioned; and we trust God +will keep us in his protection against them; and +thus I have said all I had to say.</p> + +<p>2d day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1202, +(corresponding with 7th May, 1788.)</p> +<br><br> + +<p class="mid">Letter VI.</p> + +<p><i>Letter from Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of +Marocco, &c. &c. to His Majesty George III. literally +translated from the original Arabic, by James Grey +Jackson, at the request of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, +after lying in the Secretary of State's Office +here for several months, and being then sent ineffectually +to the Universities for translation, and after various enquiries +had been made on behalf of the Emperor, to the +Governor of Gibraltar, the Bashaw of El Garb, and +the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any answer had +been returned to his Imperial Majesty.</i></p> + +<p>In the name of God! the all-merciful and +commiserating God, on whom is our account, +and we acknowledge his support; for there is +neither beginning nor power but that which proceeds +from God, the High Eternal God.</p> + +<p>From the servant of God, the commander of +the faithful [in Muhamed] upheld and supported +by the Grace of God.</p> + +<p>Soliman the son of Muhamed, the son of Abdallah, +the son of Ismael, Prince of [the house or +dynasty of Hassan]<a id="footnotetag222" name="footnotetag222"></a> +<a href="#footnote222"><sup class="sml">222</sup></a> who was ever upheld by the +<a name="p396" id="p396"></a><span class="pagenum">[396]</span> +power of God, Sultan of Fas and Marocco, and +Suse, and Draha, and Tafilelt, and Tuat, together +with all the territories of the West.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote222" +name="footnote222"></a><b>Footnote 222:</b><a href="#footnotetag222"> +(return) </a> The words between brackets are not in the original, but +implied.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"> +L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid">Soliman, son of Mohamed, son<br> +Abdallah, God illumine and support<br> +him! +</p> + +<p>To our dearly beloved and cherished, exalted +by the power of God, the Sultan<a id="footnotetag223" name="footnotetag223"></a> +<a href="#footnote223"><sup class="sml">223</sup></a> George the +Third, Sultan of the territories of the United +Kingdom of Great Britain, Ireland, Duke of +Mecklenburg Strelitz, Prince, descended from +the dynasty of the Sultans of Rome and Palestine, +&c.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote223" +name="footnote223"></a><b>Footnote 223:</b><a href="#footnotetag223"> +(return) </a> This perhaps is the only letter extant, wherein a Muselman +Prince gives the title of Sultan to a Christian king.</blockquote> + +<p>This premised, we inform you, that we make +diligent inquiry about you, desiring heartily that +you may be at all times surrounded by health +and prosperity. We wish you to increase in +friendship with us, that our alliance may be more +strongly cemented than heretofore, even stronger +than it was in the days of our ancestors, whom +God guard and protect.</p> + +<p>Now therefore we make known to you, that +your physician, Doctor Buffé, has been in our +royal presence, [which is] exalted by the bounty +of God, and we have been well pleased with his +medical knowledge and diligent attention, and +moreover with the relief he has given to us.</p> + +<p>We have therefore to entreat of you to give +<a name="p397" id="p397"></a><span class="pagenum">[397]</span> +him your royal order to return to Gibraltar, in +our neighbourhood, well provided with all good +and necessary medicines; that he, residing at +Gibraltar, may be ready to attend quickly our +royal presence, whenever we may be in need of +his [medical] assistance. We trust you will return +him without procrastination to our throne, +seeing that he has been of essential service to us.</p> + +<p>We recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffé, in your +favour and esteem on our account, and we will +always be your allies and friends. May you ever +be well and in prosperity! Peace be with you, +4th of the month Jumad El Lule in the year [of +the Hejra] 1221, (corresponding with 5th July, +1806, A.D.)</p> +<br><br> + + +<p class="mid">LETTER VII.</p> + +<p>In Muhamedan countries, an insolvent man +continues liable to his creditors till the day of +his death, unless the debt is discharged; but he +can claim by law his liberation from prison, on +making oath, and bringing proof of his insolvency: +but then if he succeed afterwards and +become possessed of property, he is compelled +to pay the debts formerly contracted; so that an +European should be cautious how he contracts +debts with the Moors, lest the misfortunes that +commerce is liable to should oblige him to +remain all his life in the country. A letter, +similar to the following, should be procured by +every European, about to quit the country, to +<a name="p398" id="p398"></a><span class="pagenum">[398]</span> +prevent the extortion of the alkaid, who might, +as has often happened before, throw impediments +in the way for the purpose of extorting presents, +&c.</p> + +<p><i>Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated +from the Original Arabic, by James Grey Jackson.</i></p> + +<p class="mid"> +L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid">Soliman ben Muhamed, ben<br> +Abdallah, ben Ismael Sultan,<br> +&c.</p> + +<p class="mid">Praise be to God alone. +</p> + +<p>Our servants El Hage Mohamed o Bryhim, +and Seid Mohamed Bel Akkia, peace and the +mercy of God be with you! This premised, I +command you to suffer the Christian merchant, +Jackson, to embark for his own country, if it +appears to you that no one pursues him in law +[for debt,] as I wrote to you on this subject in +my last letter: if no one claims of him any right +by law, allow him to go, and do not impede him.<a id="footnotetag224" name="footnotetag224"></a> +<a href="#footnote224"><sup class="sml">224</sup></a> +God protect you, and peace be with you. 3d +day of Saffer, the good year 1220 of the Hejra, +(A.C. 1805.)</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote224" +name="footnote224"></a><b>Footnote 224:</b><a href="#footnotetag224"> +(return) </a> This repetition of the principal subject in Arabic correspondence, +is a mode of impressing on the mind more forcibly, +the subject intended to be impressed, and is commonly +practised by the best Arabian, and African writers; it also +frequently occurs in the inspired writings. See Psalms +lxxv, l. lxxvii, 1. &c.</blockquote> +<br><br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER VIII.</p> + +<p>As a specimen of the lofty style of writing so +much in use among the Eastern authors, I shall +<a name="p399" id="p399"></a><span class="pagenum">[399]</span> +add the summons which Hulacu the Tartar +conqueror of the East, (who took Bagdad, and +entirely subverted the government of the Saracens,) +sent to Al Mâlek Annâsar, sultan of Aleppo, +in the year of the Hejra 657, (of Christ 1259.)</p> + +<p>Let Al Mâlek Annâsar know, that we sat down +before Bagdad in the 655th year (of the Hejra,) +and took it by the sword of the most high God: +and we brought the master of it before us, and +demanded two things of him; to which he, not +answering, brought deserved punishment upon +himself. As it is written in your Koran, "<i>God +doth not change the condition of a people, till their +own minds are changed</i>." He took care of his +wealth, and fate brought him to what he is come +to. He chose to exchange precious lives for +pieces of money made of vile metal; which is +plainly the same that God says <i>They found</i> +[the reward of] <i>what they had done present with +them</i>. +<a id="footnotetag225" name="footnotetag225"></a> +<a href="#footnote225"><sup class="sml">225</sup></a> For we have attained by the power of +God, what we desired; and by the help of the +most high God we shall increase. Nor is there +any doubt of our being the army of God upon +his earth. He created us, and gave us power +over every one upon whom his anger rests. +Wherefore, let what is past be to you an example, +and what we have mentioned a warning. +Fortifications are nothing in our hands, nor doth +<a name="p400" id="p400"></a><span class="pagenum">[400]</span> +the joining of battle avail you any thing; nor +will your intreaties be heard or regarded. Take +warning therefore by others, and surrender entirely +to us, before the veil be taken off, and +[<i>the punishment of</i>] sin light upon you. For we +shall have no mercy upon him that complains, +nor be moved by him that weeps. We have +wasted countries, we have destroyed men, we +have made children orphans, and the land desolate. +It is your business to run away; ours to +pursue; nor can you escape our swords, nor fly +from our arrows. Our horses are racers; our +arrows strike home; our swords pierce like +lightning; our fortifications are like mountains, +and our numbers like the sand. Whosoever surrenders +comes off safe: whosoever is for war, repents +it. If you will obey our command, and +come to our terms, your interest and ours shall +be the same; but if you be refractory and persist +in your error, blame not us, but yourselves. +God is against you, ye wicked wretches: look +out for something to screen you under your +miseries, and find somebody to bear you company +in your affliction. We have given you fair +warning, and fair warning is fair play. You have +eaten things forbidden +<a id="footnotetag226" name="footnotetag226"></a> +<a href="#footnote226"><sup class="sml">226</sup></a>, you have been perfidious +in your treaties. You have introduced new +heresies, and thought it a gallant thing to commit +sodomy. Prepare yourselves therefore for +<a name="p401" id="p401"></a><span class="pagenum">[401]</span> +scorn and contempt. Now you will find what +you have done; for they that have done amiss, +will now find their state changed. You take it +for granted, that we are infidels. We take it +for granted, that you are <i>villains</i>; and <i>He</i> by whose +hand all things are disposed and determined, +hath given us the dominion over you. The +greatest man you have is despicable among us; +and what <i>you</i> call rich, is a beggar. We govern +the world from east to west, and whosoever is +worth any thing is our prey; and we take every +ship by force. Weigh therefore what is fit to be +done, and return us a speedy answer, before +<i>infidelity</i> +<a id="footnotetag227" name="footnotetag227"></a> +<a href="#footnote227"><sup class="sml">227</sup></a> shall have kindled its fire, and scattered +its sparks among you, and destroy you all +from off the face of the earth. We have awakened +you by sending to you: make haste with +an answer, lest punishment come upon you unawares.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote225" +name="footnote225"></a><b>Footnote 225:</b><a href="#footnotetag225"> +(return)</a>: A quotation from the Koran. The Tartar was a deist, +and quotes the Koran in derision.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote226" +name="footnote226"></a><b>Footnote 226:</b><a href="#footnotetag226"> +(return) </a> The Muhamedans, whose religion is a compound of Judaism +and Christianity, have borrowed many customs from +either, they abstain like the Jews from swine's flesh, &c.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote227" +name="footnote227"></a><b>Footnote 227:</b><a href="#footnotetag227"> +(return) </a> As the Muhamedans charge every nation that doth not +believe Muhamed to have been a prophet with infidelity, so +the Tartar (who was a Deist) returns it upon them.</blockquote> +<br><br> + +<p><a name="p402" id="p402"></a><span class="pagenum">[402]</span></p> + +<p class="mid">LETTER IX.</p> + +<p><i>Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, +to Webster Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire +of Marocco, from their High Mightinesses the States-General, +of the Seven United Provinces. Written soon +after the Emperor's Proclamation, and previous to the +Negotiation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer, to +Dutch Commerce.</i></p> + +<p>"Praise be to God alone; for there is neither +beginning nor power without God."</p> + +<p class="mid">L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid"> +Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan<br> +ben Sultan, (i.e. Emperor<br> +and Son of an Emperor.) +</p> + +<p>"To the Consul Blount. Peace be with those +who follow the right way, or the way of the true +God: and this being premised, know that I have +received your letter, and that we are with you, +(the Dutch nation,) in peace and amity and good +faith, and peace be with you. 22 Ramadan, +year of the Hejra 1204, (A.C. 1792.)"</p> + +<p>Translated literally by the Author, from the +original Arabic in his possession.</p> +<br><br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER X.</p> + +<p><i>Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid, to the +Governor of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the +Port of Agadeer to the Dutch, and to send there the +Merchants of that Nation.</i></p> + +<p>"Praise be to God alone; for there is neither +beginning nor power without God, +the eternal God." +<a name="p403" id="p403"></a><span class="pagenum">[403]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"> +L.S.</p> + +<p class="mid"> +Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan<br> +ben Sultan. +</p> + +<p>"Our servant (or agent) Alkaid Aumer ben +Daudy, peace be unto you, with the mercy and +blessing of God: this premised, I command that +all the duties you have collected be sent to me +speedily by my brother<a id="footnotetag228" name="footnotetag228"></a> +<a href="#footnote228"><sup class="sml">228</sup></a> Muley Soliman, who will +(<i>berik</i>) discharge you by receipt for every thing you +deliver to him, for he is our representative. We +are preparing to go to the siege of Ceuta, with +the acquiescence of the High God, by whose +power we hope to enter it, and take it. And +we command you to send the Alkaid M'saud El +Hayanie to my port of Agadeer, with all things +necessary for his journey, assisting him with +every possible succour, and send with him twenty +Benianters<a id="footnotetag229" name="footnotetag229"></a> +<a href="#footnote229"><sup class="sml">229</sup></a>, who must be sailors skilful in the +management of boats; and the Christian merchants +of the Dutch nation will go to Agadeer, +and establish their houses there; for I have given +that port to the Dutch to trade there: and send +with them Talb Aumer Busedra, and the eye of +God be upon you, and peace be with you."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote228" +name="footnote228"></a><b>Footnote 228:</b><a href="#footnotetag228"> +(return) </a> The duties were at this time collected in kind; viz. one +tenth of every thing imported from Europe: and the present +Emperor Muly Soliman was deputed to convey them to the +camp before Ceuta, to his brother, the Emperor Muley Yezzid, +whose army was besieging that fortress.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote229" +name="footnote229"></a><b>Footnote 229:</b><a href="#footnotetag229"> +(return) </a> <i>Benianters</i>, are a kabyle of Shelluhs of Suse, who are +employed to work, and row the boats, and land the goods at +Mogodor.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p404" id="p404"></a><span class="pagenum">[404]</span></p> + +<p>Seventh day of Arrabea Ellule, year (Hejra) +1205.<a id="footnotetag230" name="footnotetag230"></a> +<a href="#footnote230"><sup class="sml">230</sup></a></p> + +<p>Translated by the Author, from the original +Arabic in his possession.</p> + +<p>"Be vigilant with respect to the matter of the +establishment of Agadeer, and of M'saud El +Hayanie."<a id="footnotetag231" name="footnotetag231"></a> +<a href="#footnote231"><sup class="sml">231</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote230" +name="footnote230"></a><b>Footnote 230:</b><a href="#footnotetag230"> +(return) </a> Corresponding with A.C. 1793.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote231" +name="footnote231"></a><b>Footnote 231:</b><a href="#footnotetag231"> +(return) </a> The Emperors of Marocco, and the Arabian writers in general +thus repeat the principal subject of a letter or discourse, +to impress it more forcibly on the mind.</blockquote> + +<br><br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER XI.</p> + +<p><i>Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa, in +their Correspondence with all their Friends who are not +of the Muhamedan faith</i>.</p> + +<p>"Praise be to God alone; for there is neither +beginning nor strength without +God, the eternal God.</p> + +<p>"From the servant of the great God, El Hage +Abdrahaman El Fellely, to my friend Consul +Jackson, peace be to those who follow the right +way, or who pursue the right path; and then, O +my friend, I have received your letter, and I +have taken good notice of its contents, &c. &c."</p> + +<p>The letter, after explaining matters of business, +concludes thus:--</p> + +<p>"Do not leave me without news from you; +and peace be with you, and peace from me +to our friend L'hage Muhamed Bu Zeyd; +and peace from me to Seed Muham'd bel Hassen, +and to the Fakeer Seed Abdallah, and +praise be to God, I am very well, and prosperous. +<a name="p405" id="p405"></a><span class="pagenum">[405]</span> +Written 15th day of Shaban, year of the +Hejra 1209, (1797, A.C.)"</p> + +<p>The style in which letters are addressed is generally +as follows:--</p> + +<p>"This shall arrive, God willing, to the hands +of Consul Jackson, at Agadeer. May God prosper +it."</p> +<br><br> + +<p class="mid">LETTER XII.</p> + +<p><i>Translation of a Letter from the Sultan, Seedi Muhamed +Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor</i>.</p> + +<p>"Praise be to God alone,</p> + +<p>"I order my servant Alkaid Muhamed ben +Amran, to deliver the treasure and the merchandise +to the Christian merchants at Mogodor, +which is in the possession of the Jews, Haim +Miram, and Meemon ben Isaac Corcos, and +others of the Jews, friends of the Christian merchants. +God assist you, and peace be with you. +23d of the month Jumad Ellule, year of the +Hejra 1203.</p> + +<p>"By order of the Sultan, empowered by +God. Written by Talb El Huderanie."</p> + +<p>The courier who receives the letter is ordered +by the minister whom to deliver it to. It is then +inclosed in a blank leaf or sheet of paper, without +any address, and not sealed. It is presumed, +that the courier or messenger will not dare to +open it, or discover the contents to any one; +such a breach of confidence might cost him his +head, if discovered. +<a name="p406" id="p406"></a><span class="pagenum">[406]</span></p> + +<p><i>Doubts having been made in the Daily Papers, +concerning the accuracy of the two following +Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's account +of Mungo Park's Death; the following Observations, +by the Author, are laid before the +Public in elucidation of those Translations</i>.</p> + +<p>The following is a copy of a letter, supposed +to be a description of Mungo Park's death; +brought to England from Ashantee in Africa, by +Mr. Bowdich; and that gentleman assured me, +about six months after his arrival in England, +and a few days previous to the publication of his +interesting account of a mission to Ashantee, +that he had by every means in his power endeavoured, +but ineffectually, to get this manuscript +<i>decyphered</i> and translated into English; that he +had sent it to several persons, who had retained +it in their hands a considerable time, but had +returned it without a decypher, or even a complete +translation. When delivered into my +hands, I transmitted him a <i>decypher</i>, and a translation +immediately. The following is my translation, +which, in that gentleman's account of +Ashantee, is coupled with another translation, +<i>not perspicuous, but unintelligible</i>; for which see +Bowdich's "Account of a Mission to Ashantee," +Appendix, No. 2.</p> + +<p>The original Arabic document, of which I have +given a decypher in the work before mentioned, +<a name="p407" id="p407"></a><span class="pagenum">[407]</span> +is, (for the information of gentlemen desirous of +referring to the same,) deposited in the British +Museum. There are also, in the same work on +Ashantee, several papers decyphered by me, of +certain routes in Africa. Now I think it expedient +here, to declare to the public, that whenever +the British Government, the Court of Admiralty, +or private individuals, have stood in +need of translations, and decyphers from the +Arabic, they have invariably found it expedient, +ultimately, to apply to me for the same, after +having, however, endeavoured ineffectually to +procure their information at the Universities, +the Post Office, and elsewhere: but as this +declaration may appear to many incredible, I +will mention three instances in elucidation of this +my assertion, which, as they are all on record, +will place this fact beyond doubt.</p> + +<p>1st. A vessel under Marocco colours, was, +during last war, taken by a British cruiser, and +sent or brought into Plymouth, or other port, +in England. The captain and the ship were detained +a considerable time here; the former, at +length, whose patience became exhausted, expostulated +at his detention, and insisted on +being released, if no interpreter in this commercial +nation could be found competent to +translate his passport. <i>Mr. Slade, an eminent +proctor in Doctors' Commons</i>, then applied to +me, after a detention of, I believe, two months, +and I translated the passport. Mr. Slade very +liberally told me, that whatever I chose to +<a name="p408" id="p408"></a><span class="pagenum">[408]</span> +charge for this service, which he had <i>sought in +vain to accomplish</i>, should be gratefully paid. I +charged five guineas; and it was instantly paid. +The passport consisted of two lines and a half. +This was in the Court of Admiralty. Mr. Slade, +who is an honourable and respectable man, will +of course not hesitate to corroborate the accuracy +of this statement.</p> + +<p>2d. A letter was written by the present Sultan +Soliman, emperor of Marocco, &c. to our late revered +sovereign, George III., in a more courteous +style than is usual for Muhamedan potentates +to write to Christian kings; with liberal offers +on the part of the Sultan, courting an augmentation +of friendly intercourse, &c. This letter +(contrary to the usual courtesy of European +courts) was neglected some months, no answer +being returned to it. It was sent to the Universities +for translation, but ineffectually; then +to the Post Office; and, at the expiration of +some months, it was accidentally transmitted to +me, through the hands of the Right Honourable +Spencer Perceval, at that time Chancellor of +the Exchequer, and I delivered, at the request +of that gentleman, a translation of it in English. +This letter was ten or fifteen times as long as +the passport before mentioned, and I charged +thirty pounds for the service. But the Treasury +thought ten pounds a sufficient remuneration, +which I accepted!!</p> + +<p>This service was rendered to the British government, +<a name="p409" id="p409"></a><span class="pagenum">[409]</span> +and I have letters and documents in +my possession, which corroborate this fact.</p> + +<p>3d. Was the translation of an Arabic manuscript, +respecting Mungo Park's death; delivered +gratuitously to a private individual, viz. Mr. +Bowdich, before mentioned; to satisfy the +curiosity of my country, whose interest was excited +respecting the fate of that enterprising and +indefatigable African traveller. Mr. Bowdich, +who is an honourable man, will undoubtedly confirm +the truth of this statement, to any gentleman +who may be desirous of ascertaining the +fact.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>The Shereef Ibrahim's account of Mungo Park's<br> +Death</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">(THE AUTHOR'S TRANSLATION.)</p> + +<p class="mid">"In the name of God, the Merciful and Clement!</p> + +<p>"This narrative proceeds from the territory in +Husa, called Eeaurie or Yeaurie. We observed +an extraordinary event or circumstance, but we +neither saw nor heard of the river which is +called Kude. And as we were sitting we heard +the voice of children; and we saw a vessel, the +like to which in size we never saw before. And +we saw the king of Eeaurie send cattle and +sheep, and a variety of vegetables, in great +abundance. And there were two men and one +woman, and two slaves; and they tied them in +the vessel. There were also in the vessel two +<a name="p410" id="p410"></a><span class="pagenum">[410]</span> +white men, of the race called Christians: and +the Sultan of Eeaurie called aloud to them, to +come out of the vessel, but they would not. +They proceeded to the country of Busa, which +is greater than that of the Sultan of Eeaurie. +And as they were sitting in the vessel, they +hung<a id="footnotetag232" name="footnotetag232"></a> +<a href="#footnote232"><sup class="sml">232</sup></a>, or were stopped by the cape, or head-land +of Kude."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote232" +name="footnote232"></a><b>Footnote 232:</b><a href="#footnotetag232"> +(return) </a> Probably by an impetuous current.</blockquote> + +<p>"And the people of the sultan of Busa called to +them, and poured their arms into the vessel; and +the vessel reached the head-land or cliff, and became +attached or fixed to the head of the mountain +or projection in the river, and could not +pass it. Then the men and women of Busa collected +themselves hostilely together, with arms +of all descriptions; and the vessel being unable +to clear the head-land, the man in the vessel +killed his wife, and threw the whole of her property +into the river; they then threw themselves +into the river through fear. The news of +this occurrence was then conveyed to the Sultan +Wawee, until it reached, by water, the territory +of Kanjee, in the country of the Sultan Wawee. +And we buried it in its earth; and one of them +we saw not at all in the water. And God +knows the truth of this report from the mouth +of the Shereef Ibrahim. The end."</p> + +<p class="mid">OBSERVATION.</p> + +<p>After giving the foregoing translation, it behoves +<a name="p411" id="p411"></a><span class="pagenum">[411]</span> +me to inform the intelligent reader, that +I wrote a letter to Mr. Bowdich, communicating +to him my observations on several notes, transmitted +to him by Sir William Ouseley, on the +manuscript of which the foregoing is a translation, +in which I informed him, that in decyphering +the Arabic manuscript, I had observed the +Oriental or Asiatic punctuation; knowing that +Mr. Bulmer had not letters with the occidental +punctuation. Several observations I made, +respecting the Arabic manuscripts which could +not be elucidated here without the Arabic +type. I shall, therefore, omit them, and conclude +by observing, that in translating this +manuscript, two gentlemen (Arabic scholars) +had translated <i>akkadan Fie Asfeena</i>, "two +maids in the ship;" which words I have +translated, "were tied or bound in the vessel:" +the word <i>akkadan</i> being the preterite of the +verb <i>akkad</i>, to bind. I was not surprised to hear +that <i>one</i> translator had made such an interpretation; +knowing that incredible errors have +been frequently committed by professed Professors +in the Hebrew language as well as in the +Arabic. But when I heard, as I did, that another +Arabic scholar had given a similar interpretation, +I must confess that I was not a little surprised. +However, a circumstance soon after +unravelled the mystery; for I discovered that +these two gentlemen, at a loss no doubt to ascertain +the meaning of <i>akkadan</i>, had referred to +<a name="p412" id="p412"></a><span class="pagenum">[412]</span> +Richardson's Arabic Dictionary, wherein the +word is quoted to signify, in a figurative sense, +a virgin. <i>In a figurative sense!</i> In translating +an ill-written, illiterate, and ungrammatical manuscript, +these two translators had had recourse +to <i>rhetorical figures</i>, and actually substituted a +trope for what was a verb, generally used in the +West, signifying "to bind!"</p> + +<p>As it has been asserted in the following extract, +that my translation of the foregoing manuscript +differs <i>only in a trifling degree</i> from that of +Mr. Abraham Salamé, I here insert my answer to +that assertion, leaving the intelligent reader to +determine, whether they are alike or materially +different.</p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Extract from The Times, 3d May, 1819</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">MUNGO PARK.</p> + +<p>The death of this enterprising traveller is +now placed beyond any doubt. Many accounts +of it have been received, and although varying +as to the circumstances attending it, yet all +agreeing that it has taken place. One statement +was given to Mr. Bowdich, while on his mission +to the King of the Ashantees, in 1817, by a +Moor, who said that he was an eye-witness; and +the same gentleman procured an Arabic manuscript +declaratory of Mr. Park's death. This +manuscript has been deposited with the African +Association, formed for the purpose of extending +<a name="p413" id="p413"></a><span class="pagenum">[413]</span> +researches in that part of the world. Two +translations have been made of this curious document; +one by Mr. Salamé, an Egyptian, who +accompanied Viscount Exmouth in his attack on +Algiers, as interpreter; and the other by Mr. +Jackson, formerly consul at one of the Barbary +courts. The following is Mr. Salamé's translation, +from which, however, <i>the one by Mr. +Jackson only differs in a trifling degree</i>. The +words in italics have been inserted by Mr. Salamé, +in order to render the reading more perfect, +and are not in the original:--</p> + +<p><i>A literal Translation of a Declaration written in +a corrupted Arabic, from the Town of Yaud, +in the Interior of Africa</i>.</p> + +<p>"'In the name of God, the merciful and the +munificent. This declaration is issued from the +town called Yaud, in the county of Kossa. We +(the writer) do witness the <i>following</i> case (statement.) +We never saw, nor heard of the sea +(river) called Koodd; but we sat to hear (understood) +the voice (report) of some persons, <i>saying</i>, +'We saw a ship, equal to her we never +saw before; and the King of Yaud had sent +plenty of every kind of food, with cows and +sheep; <i>there</i> were two men, one woman, two +male slaves, and two maids in the ship; <i>the</i> two +white men <i>were</i> derived from the race (sect) of +Nassri (Christ, or Christianity.) The King of +<a name="p414" id="p414"></a><span class="pagenum">[414]</span> +Yaud asked them to come out to him (to land); +but they refused coming out (landing); and +they went to the <i>King</i> of the country of Bassa, +who is greater than the King of Yaud; and +<i>while</i> they <i>were</i> sitting in the ship, and gaining a +position (rounding) over the Cape of Koodd, and +<i>were</i> in society with the people of the King of +Bassa, the ship reached (struck) a head of mountain, +which took (destroyed) <i>her</i> away, and the +men and women of Bassa all together, with +every kind of arms (goods); and the ship could +find no way to avoid the mountain; and the +man who <i>was</i> in the ship, killed his wife, and +threw all his property into the sea (river), and +<i>then</i> they threw themselves <i>also</i>, from fear. +Afterwards they took one <i>out of the</i> water till +the news reached the town of Kanji, the country +of the King of Wawi; and the King of Wawi +heard of it; he buried him in his earth (grave), +and the other we have not seen; perhaps he is +in the bottom of the water. And God knows +best.' Authentic from the mouth of Sherif +Abraham.--Finis.'</p> + +<p>"In addition to the foregoing, another corroboration +has been obtained. Lieut. Col. Fitzclarence, +when on his voyage down the Mediterranean +on board the <i>Tagus</i> frigate, Capt. +Dundas, with despatches from the Marquis of +Hastings, learnt from the governor to the two +sons of the Emperor of Marocco, who had been +on a pilgrimage to Mecca, and were then returning +home, that he (Hadjee Tahib) had +<a name="p415" id="p415"></a><span class="pagenum">[415]</span> +been at Timbuctoo in 1807, and had heard of +<i>two white</i> men, who came from the sea, having +been near that place the year before; and that +they sold beads, and had no money to purchase +grain. This person added, that they went +down the <i>Nile</i> to the eastward, and that general +report stated that they <i>died of the climate</i>. +There can be little doubt but the <i>two white</i> men +here alluded to were Mr. Park and his companion, +Lieutenant Martyn, who were at Sandsanding +in Nov. 1805, and could, in the following +year, have been near Timbuctoo. Sandsanding +is the place from whence the last dispatches +were dated by Mr. Park; and Amadi +Fatouma, who was his guide afterwards, was +sent to learn his fate, and returned with an +account of Mr. Park being drowned. The +statement of this person was, however, of such +a nature as to excite suspicions of its correctness; +and hopes were entertained that Mr. +Park had not met with such an untimely fate. +Fourteen years have now almost elapsed since +the date of his last dispatches; and this circumstance +is of itself sufficient to demonstrate, +that he is to be added to the catalogue of +those who have perished in their attempts to +explore the interior of Africa.--<i>Englishman</i>."</p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE EDITOR OF THE BRITISH STATESMAN.</p> + +<p>Sir;--Seeing in your Paper of yesterday a +translation of the Arabic manuscript respecting +<a name="p416" id="p416"></a><span class="pagenum">[416]</span> +Mr. Mungo Park's death, which is deposited +with the African Association, and <i>decyphered +and transcribed by me</i> in Mr. Bowdich's account +of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480, and perceiving +that the errors in <i>that translation</i> are thus +propagated to the public through the medium +of the London Papers; which although perhaps +of little consequence to the general +reader, yet, as they are of importance to the +critic, and to the investigator of African affairs, +I shall take the liberty of offering a few observations +on the subject.</p> + +<p>The following passage, in the translation +above alluded to, might have passed the public +eye without animadversion as the language of a +foreigner, (as we have understood Mr. Salamé +to be,) but from the intelligent Editor of a +London daily paper, might we not have expected +more correct phraseology?<a id="footnotetag233" name="footnotetag233"></a> +<a href="#footnote233"><sup class="sml">233</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote233" +name="footnote233"></a><b>Footnote 233:</b><a href="#footnotetag233"> +(return) </a> "The phrases thus objected to by our learned Correspondent, +were contained in the translations furnished to us +in common with other papers, and not the language of the +Editor. Indeed, this appears to be admitted by our Correspondent himself, +in the apparently very just comments he +has thus favoured us with.--<span class="sc">Editor</span>."</blockquote> + +<p>"The ship reached a head of mountain which +took her away, and the men and women of +Bassa, altogether with every kind of arms, and +the ship could find no way to avoid the mountain."</p> + +<p>I have no hesitation in declaring to be incorrect +the first two lines of Mr. Abraham Salamé's +<a name="p417" id="p417"></a><span class="pagenum">[417]</span> +translation, inserted in your paper of yesterday, which +runs thus:--</p> + +<p>"<i>This declaration is issued from the town +called <span class="sc">Yaud</span>, in the country of <span class="sc">Kossa</span></i>."</p> + +<p>My translation of this passage, inserted in +Mr. Bowdich's account of a Mission to Ashantee, +page 478, runs thus:--</p> + +<p>"<i>This narrative proceeds from the territory in +<span class="sc">Hausa</span> called <span class="sc">Ecauree</span></i>."</p> + +<p>No one, I presume, will say that there is not +a <i>manifest</i> difference between these two translations--between +<i>the town called Yaud, in the +country of Kossa</i>, and the <i>territory of Hausa, +called Ecauree</i>.</p> + +<p>One of these translations must therefore necessarily +be incorrect. The Arabic manuscript +decyphered and transcribed by me, is inserted +in Mr. Bowdich's work, page 480. Those who +may feel interested in ascertaining which is the +correct and precise translation, are requested to +refer to the transcript above-mentioned, or to +the original manuscript, in the possession of the +African Association. As for myself, I presume +I am right; and would submit the decision to +the judgment of either Sir Gore Ousley, or to +that of Sir William, or to the opinion of any +Arabic scholar, to decide this question.</p> + +<p>If, Mr. Editor, you had an Arabic type, to +save the trouble of referring to the original, I +should ask the Arabic scholar if it were possible +for any man to translate the following passage +in that document:--"Bled Hausa eekalu Ecuree"--"the +<a name="p418" id="p418"></a><span class="pagenum">[418]</span> +town called Yaud, in the country +of Cossa;" whilst I should maintain that it +would admit of no other translation but the following, +viz.--"the country of Hausa, called +Ecauree."</p> + +<p>If you think this elucidation of the translation +of the Manuscript of Park's death sufficiently +interesting to the public to deserve a +place in your intelligent paper, it is very much +at your service.</p> + +<p class="mid">From, Sir,<br> + +Your most obedient servant,<br> +<span class="sc">James Grey Jackson</span>,</p> + +<p class="mid">Professor of African Languages, and formerly British<br> +Consul and Agent for Holland, Sweden, and Denmark,<br> +at Santa Cruz, South Barbary.<a id="footnotetag234" name="footnotetag234"></a> +<a href="#footnote234"><sup class="sml">234</sup></a></p> + +<p><i>Circus, Minories,<br> +May 4.</i> 1819. +</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote234" +name="footnote234"></a><b>Footnote 234:</b><a href="#footnotetag234"> +(return) </a> See <span class="sc">British Statesman</span>, May 6th, 1819.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p419" id="p419"></a><span class="pagenum">[419]</span></p> +<br><br> + + +<h3>LETTERS RESPECTING AFRICA,</h3> + +<h5>FROM</h5> + +<h3><i>J.G. JACKSON AND OTHERS.</i></h3> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p class="mid"><i>On the Plague.</i></p> + +<p class="mid">To JAMES WILLIS, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia.</p> + +<p class="rig">London, October 30, 1804.</p><br><br> + +<p><span class="sc">My dear Sir</span>,</p> + +<p>Your letter reached my hands yesterday; but +I am afraid I shall not be able to satisfy you in +every enquiry which you have made relative to +the plague in Barbary in 1799. I have, however, +no doubt but the plague which has prevailed +in Spain has originated from it. Some of +the following observations may probably be of +service to you.</p> + +<p>It does not appear to be ascertained how the +plague originated in Fas in the year 1799. Some +persons have ascribed it to infected merchandise +received at Fas from the East; whilst others +maintain that the locusts which had infested +Western Barbary during seven years, destroying +the crops, the vegetables, and every green thing, +even to the bark of the trees, produced such a +scarcity, that the poor could obtain scarcely +<a name="p420" id="p420"></a><span class="pagenum">[420]</span> +any thing to eat but the locusts; and living on +them for several months, till a most abundant +crop enabled them to satisfy the cravings of nature, +they ate abundantly of the new corn, which +producing a fever, brought on the contagion. At +this time the small-pox pervaded the country, +and was generally fatal. The small-pox is thought +to be the forerunner of this species of contagion, +as appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, +which gives a full account of the same disorder +having carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants +of West Barbary about four hundred years since; +but, however the dreadful epidemy originated, +the leading features of the disorder were novel, +and more dreadful than the common plague of +Turkey, or that of Syria or Egypt, as the following +observations will demonstrate.</p> + +<p>In the month of April, 1799, a plague of the +most dreadful kind manifested itself at the city of +Old Fas, which soon after communicated itself +to the new city. About this time the Emperor +Muley Soliman ben Muhamed was preparing a +numerous army, and was on the eve of departure +to visit his Southern dominions, and to take +possession of the province of Abda, which had +not acknowledged him as Emperor, but was, as +well as the port of Saffy, in a state of rebellion. +The Emperor left Fas early in the summer, and +proceeded to Sallee, Mazagan, and Saffee; thence +to Marocco and Mogodor. Now the plague began +to kindle in all the Southern provinces, first +carrying off one or two the first day, three or +four the second day, six or eight the third day, +<a name="p421" id="p421"></a><span class="pagenum">[421]</span> +and increasing progressively till it amounted to +a daily mortality of two in a hundred of the +whole population; continuing <i>with unabated violence</i>, +ten, fifteen, twenty days, being of longer +duration in old than in new towns; then diminishing +in a progressive proportion from one +thousand a-day, to nine hundred, to eight hundred +and so continuing to decrease till it disappeared.</p> + +<p>When it raged at the town of Mogodor, a small +village (Deabet) situated two miles South-east of +Mogodor remained uninfected, although the +communication was open between these two +places. On the thirty-fourth day after its first +appearance at Mogodor, this village received the +infection, where, after committing dreadful havock +among the human species for twenty-one +days carried off one hundred persons out of one +hundred and thirty-three, the population of the +village before the plague visited it. After this, +none died; but those who were infected recovered, +some losing the use of a leg, or an arm, +or an eye.</p> + +<p>Many similar circumstances might be mentioned +relative to the numerous villages scattered +about the extensive province of Haha, all which +shared the like, or a worse fate. Travelling +through this province after the plague had disappeared, +I saw many ruins, which had been +flourishing villages before the plague. Making +enquiry concerning the population of these dismal +remains of the pestilence, I was informed, +<a name="p422" id="p422"></a><span class="pagenum">[422]</span> +that one village contained six hundred inhabitants; +that only four had escaped. Others, +which had contained four and five hundred, had +left seven or eight to lament the calamities they +had suffered.</p> + +<p>Whenever any families retired to the country, +to avoid the infection; on returning to town, +when apparently all infection had disappeared, +they were generally attacked, and died. The +destruction of the human species in the province +of Upper and LowerSuse was much greater +than elsewhere. The capital city of this province +(Tarodant) lost, when the infection was +at its <i>acmé</i>, about eight hundred each day; the +city of Marocco lost one thousand each day; the +cities of Old and New Fas from twelve to fifteen +hundred each day; insomuch, that, in these large +towns, the mortality was such, that the living +had not time to bury the dead: they were therefore +thrown altogether into large holes, which +were covered over when full of dead bodies.</p> + +<p>Young and healthy robust persons were generally +attacked first; then women and children; +lastly, thin, sickly, and old people. <i>After the +plague had totally subsided, we saw men, who had +been common labourers, enjoying their thousands, +and keeping horses, without knowing how to ride +them. Provisions became extremely cheap, for +the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and +had nobody now to own them. Day-labour increased +enormously. Never was equality in the +human species more evident than at this time</i>. +<a name="p423" id="p423"></a><span class="pagenum">[423]</span> +<i>When corn was to be ground, or bread made, both +were done in the houses of the rich, and prepared +by themselves; for the very few poor people whom +the plague had spared were insufficient for the +wants of the affluent, and they were consequently +obliged to work for themselves</i>. The country +being now depopulated, vast tribes of Arabs from +the Desert poured into Suse and Draha; settling +themselves on the river Draha and in Suse, and +wherever they found little or no population.</p> + +<p>The symptoms of the disorder varied in different +patients; in some it manifested itself by a +sudden shivering, in others by delirium, succeeded +by a violent thirst. Cold water was +drank eagerly by the imprudent, and generally +proved fatal. Some had one, two, or three, some +more biles, generally in the groin, under the +arm, or near the breast; some had more. Some +had no biles, nor any outward disfiguration; +these were invariably carried off in less than +twenty-four hours. I recommended Mr. Baldwin's +remedy<a id="footnotetag235" name="footnotetag235"></a> +<a href="#footnote235"><sup class="sml">235</sup></a>, applied according to his directions; +and I do not know one instance of its +failing, when properly applied, and sufficiently +persevered in.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote235" +name="footnote235"></a><b>Footnote 235:</b><a href="#footnotetag235"> +(return) </a> Of unction of the body with olive oil.</blockquote> + +<p>I have no doubt but the epidemy, which has +been ravaging Spain lately, is the same disorder +with the one above described. We have been +told that it was communicated originally to Spain +by two infected persons, who went from Tangier +<a name="p424" id="p424"></a><span class="pagenum">[424]</span> +to Estapona, and eluded the vigilance of +the guards. We have been assured that it was +communicated by some persons infected, who +landed in Spain from a vessel that had loaded +produce at Laraich, in West Barbary. We have +also been informed that a Spanish privateer, +which had occasion to land its crew for water in +some part of West Barbary, caught the infection, +and afterwards went to Cadiz and communicated +it to the town.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">James G. Jackson</span>.</p><br><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Death of Mungo Park</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig">May, 1812.</p><br><br> + +<p>The doubts which may have existed of the +fate of this eminent man are now removed, by +the certain accounts lately received from Goree, +of his having perished, through the hostility of +the natives, on one of the branches of the Niger. +The particulars have been transmitted to Sir +Joseph Banks, by Governor Maxwell, of Goree, +who received them from Isaco<a id="footnotetag236" name="footnotetag236"></a> +<a href="#footnote236"><sup class="sml">236</sup></a>, a Moor, sent +inland by the Governor, for the purpose of +enquiry. In a letter to Mr. Dickson, of Covent-garden, +brother-in-law to Mr. Park, Sir Joseph +thus writes:--</p> + +<p>"I have read Isaco's translated journal; by +which it appears, that the numerous European +retinue of Mungq Park quickly and miserably +<a name="p425" id="p425"></a><span class="pagenum">[425]</span> +died, leaving, at the last, only himself and a +Mr. Martyn. Proceeding on their route, they +stopped at a settlement, from which, according +to custom, they sent a present to the chief whose +territory they were next to pass. This present +having been treacherously withheld, the chief +considered it, in the travellers, as a designed +injury and neglect. <i>On their approaching, in a +canoe, he assembled his people on a narrow +channel of rocks<a id="footnotetag237" name="footnotetag237"></a> +<a href="#footnote237"><sup class="sml">237</sup></a>, and assailed them so violently +with arrows, that some of the rowers were killed</i>. +This caused Mr. Park and Mr. Martyn to make +an effort by swimming to reach the shore; in +which attempt they both were drowned. The +canoe shortly afterwards sunk, and only one hired +native escaped. Every appurtenance also of the +travellers was lost or destroyed, except a sword-belt +which had belonged to Mr. Martyn, and +which Isaco redeemed, and brought with him +to Goree."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote236" +name="footnote236"></a><b>Footnote 236:</b><a href="#footnotetag236"> +(return) </a> Isaco was a Jew, not a Moor.--J.G.J.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote237" +name="footnote237"></a><b>Footnote 237:</b><a href="#footnotetag237"> +(return) </a> There is a remarkable confirmation of this quotation from +Sir Joseph's letter in Mr. <i>Jackson's</i> translation of the Arabic +manuscript of Mungo Park's death, for which see Bowdich's +Account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480.; also Annals of +Oriental Literature, No. I.</blockquote> + +<p class="mid"><i>Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the +Interior of Africa</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig">May, 1812.</p><br><br> + +<p>The young German gentleman of the name of +Rontgen, who left England about a twelve-month +since for Africa, in order to prosecute +<a name="p426" id="p426"></a><span class="pagenum">[426]</span> +discoveries in the interior of that country, has, it +is said, been murdered by the Arabs, before he +had proceeded any great distance from Mogodor, +where he spent some time perfecting himself in +the Arabic language. He was a promising +young man, and an enthusiast in the cause in +which he was lost, and supposed to understand +the Arabic language better than any European +who ever before entered Africa. At an early +age he formed the plan of going to that country, +and gave up his connections and a competency +in Germany, to prosecute his intentions. His +father was a character well known in Europe, +who raised himself from obscurity to the greatest +celebrity by his talent for mechanics. He was +at one time worth a million, but was ruined by +the French revolution.</p> + +<p><i>The following Letter from James Willis, Esq. late Consul +to Senigambia, is extracted from the Gentleman's Magazine +for May, 1812</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA.</p> + +<p class="rig">May 5. 1812.</p><br><br> + +<p>At a time when our ancient rivals and enemies +are exerting all their powers to destroy the British +commerce, and have nearly effected their +gigantic schemes of cutting off all communication +between Great Britain and the various ports, +states, and kingdoms of Europe; at such a time +when we are in imminent danger of losing the +markets of a quarter of the globe, it becomes +<a name="p427" id="p427"></a><span class="pagenum">[427]</span> +essentially important to discover other channels +for our commerce, and other markets for our +manufactures.</p> + +<p>In this point of view, the information lately +communicated to the public by Mr. James Grey +Jackson, in his "Travels in Africa," becomes +highly interesting to the statesman as well as to +the merchant. From the account which he has +given of the city of Timbuctoo, and its commercial +relations, there is great reason to conclude, +that if we could find means to open and maintain +a safe and easy communication with that +great emporium, and with the rich, fertile, and +populous regions in its vicinity, we might acquire +a market for our manufactures, that would in +time compensate for the loss of that of Europe.</p> + +<p>In the warehouses of Timbuctoo, are accumulated +the manufactures of India and of Europe; +and from thence the immense population that +dwells upon the banks of the Niger is supplied. +There is no doubt that we could furnish the articles +they want, upon much lower terms than they +can obtain them at present; and, in return, we +should furnish the best market they could have +for their gold, ivory, gums, and other rich products, +and raw materials.</p> + +<p>Now, it certainly appears to me, and I think +it must appear to every man who takes the trouble +of investigating the subject, that, provided Government +would give proper support to the enterprise, +this important communication might easily +be established. <i>For this purpose, nothing more</i> +<a name="p428" id="p428"></a><span class="pagenum">[428]</span> +<i>is necessary than to take a fortified station upon +the African coast, somewhere about the 29th +degree of north latitude, near the confines of the +Marocco dominions, to serve as a safe magazine +or emporium for merchandize. From this station +it would be easy to maintain a direct correspondence +with the opulent merchants of Timbuctoo; +regular caravans might be established +to depart at fixed periods; the protection of the +Arabs can at all times be purchased at stipulated +prices, which may be considered as premiums of +insurance, or as a tax for convoy</i>, and thus in a +little time these caravans might carry out merchandize, +to and from Timbuctoo, with as much +regularity and safety, and with less expense, +than our fleets convey our goods to and from +the West Indies.</p> + +<p>The expense of such a fortified station as is +here proposed, would be very moderate, in comparison +with the advantages it would produce; +and it would be easy to draw out a plan for it; +but I do not think it would be proper to go into +a detail here,--<i>"non est hic locus."</i></p> + +<p>It has been well observed, that commerce is +the key of Africa; and I shall only add, that if +the plan I have suggested were carried into execution, +these interesting regions of Africa, that +have heretofore baffled the attempts of curiosity +and enterprise, and remained for so many ages +a "sealed book" to the inhabitants of Europe, +would soon be explored and laid open. This is +an object that cannot be indifferent to a prince, +<a name="p429" id="p429"></a><span class="pagenum">[429]</span> +who has so evidently evinced a desire to patronise +science, and who is undoubtedly desirous +to encourage, to facilitate, and to increase, still +further the vast geographical discoveries which +have added such lustre to the reign of his august +father.</p> + +<p>To return to Mr. Jackson's book. This work +contains, besides the information that more directly +concerns the statesman and the merchant, +much interesting matter for the natural and moral +philosopher, as well as for the general reader. +The author makes no pretension to fine writing; +his style is plain, unaffected, and perspicuous, +and there is as much new, authentic, and important +matter in the book, as in the hands of the +French writers of African travels, (Golberry, +Vaillant, and Savary, for instance,) would have +been spread over three times the space. Upon +the whole, it is the most valuable work of the +kind that has appeared for many years. I hope +the author will reap the reward which his labours +have so well deserved.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">James Willis</span>.</p><br><br> + +<p><i>Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease +called Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for +Consumption in Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and +Water Communication between Timbuctoo and Egypt</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Sir</span>,</p> + +<p>The venomous spider (<i>Tendaraman</i>). This +beautiful reptile is somewhat similar to a hornet +in size and colour, but of a rounder form; its +<a name="p430" id="p430"></a><span class="pagenum">[430]</span> +legs are about an inch long, black, and very +strong; it has two bright yellow lines, latitudinally +crossing its back; it forms its web octagonally +between bushes, the diameter being two +or three yards; it places itself in the centre of +its web, which is so fine, as to be almost invisible, +and attaches to whatever may pass between +those bushes. It is said to make always towards +the head, before it inflicts its deadly wound. In +the cork forests, the sportsman, eager in his pursuit +of game, frequently carries away on his garments +the <i>tenderaman</i>, whose bite is so poisonous, +that the patient survives but a few hours.</p> + +<p>Charmers of serpents (<i>Aisawie</i>).--These <i>Aisawie</i> +have a considerable sanctuary at Fas. They +go to Suse in large bodies about the month of July +to collect serpents, which they pretend to render +harmless by a certain form of words, incantation, +or invocation to <i>Seedy ben Aisah</i>, their tutelary +saint. They have an annual feast, at which time +they dance and shake their heads quickly, during +a certain period, till they become giddy, when +they run about the towns frantic, attacking any +person that may have a black or dark dress on; +they bite, scratch, and devour any thing that +comes in their way. They will attack an <i>unjumma</i>, +or portable fire, and tear the lighted +charcoal to pieces with their hands and mouths. +I have seen them take the serpents, which they +carry about, and devour them alive, the blood +streaming down their clothes. The incredible +<a name="p431" id="p431"></a><span class="pagenum">[431]</span> +accounts of their feats would fill a volume; the +following observations may suffice to give the +reader an idea of these extraordinary fanatics. +The <i>buska</i> and the <a id="footnotetag238" name="footnotetag238"></a> +<a href="#footnote238"><sup class="sml">238</sup></a><i>el effah</i> are enticed +out of their holes by them; they handle them +with impunity, though their bite is ascertained +to be mortal; they put them into a cane +basket, and throw it over their shoulders: these +serpents they carry about the country, and +exhibit them to the people. I have seen them +play with them, and suffer them to twist round +their bodies in all directions, without receiving +any injury from them. I have often enquired how +they managed to do this, but never could get any +direct or satisfactory answer; they assure you, +however, that faith in their saint, and the powerful +influence of the name of the divinity, (<i>Isim +Allah</i>,) enables them to work these miracles: they +maintain themselves in a miserable way, by donations +from the spectators before whom they +exhibit. This art of fascinating serpents was +known by the ancient Africans, as appears from +the <i>Marii</i> and <i>Psilii</i>, who were Africans, and +showed proofs of it at Rome.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote238" +name="footnote238"></a><b>Footnote 238:</b><a href="#footnotetag238"> +(return) </a> For a description of these deadly serpents, see Jackson's +Account of Marocco, &c. chapter on Zoology.</blockquote> + +<p><i>Bu Telleese (Nyctalopia)</i>.--This ophthalmic +disease is little known in the northern provinces; +but in Suse and Sahara it prevails. A defect of +vision comes on at dusk, but without pain; the +patient is deprived of sight, so that he cannot see +<a name="p432" id="p432"></a><span class="pagenum">[432]</span> +distinctly, even with the assistance of candles. +During my residence at Agadeer, a cousin of +mine was dreadfully afflicted with this troublesome +disease, losing his sight at evening, and continuing +in that state till the rising sun. A Deleim +Arab, a famous physician, communicated to me +a sovereign remedy, which being extremely simple, +I had not sufficient faith in his prescription +to give it a trial, till reflecting that the simplicity +of the remedy was such as to preclude the possibility +of its being injurious, it was applied inwardly; +and twelve hours afterwards, to my +astonishment, the boy's eyes were perfectly well, +and continued so during twenty-one days, when +I again had recourse to the same remedy, and it +effected a cure, on one administration, during +thirty days, when it again attacked him; the +remedy was again applied with the same beneficial +effect as before.</p><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia, or +Night Blindness</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">(TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA.)</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Sir</span>,</p> + +<p>Having read your animadversions on the additional +matter introduced in my second edition +of an "Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo," &c. +(see Literary Panorama for April last, p. 713.) +wherein you conceive that I am reprehensible +<a name="p433" id="p433"></a><span class="pagenum">[433]</span> +for not having discovered publicly the remedy +alluded to as an infallible cure to the <i>Butellise</i> or +<i>Nyctalopia</i>, I should observe that I was not apprised, +(till I read those animadversions,) that this +was a disorder incident to the inhabitants in +Europe, or that it affected our seamen on the +Mediterranean station. But, if that be the case, +and it should be found expedient and beneficial +to the interests of Great Britain, that this remedy +should be divulged for the alleviation of our meritorious +seamen in His Majesty's service, I am +willing to make the discovery to any respectable +medical man who may be appointed by Government +as physician or surgeon on the Mediterranean +station.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">James G. Jackson</span>.</p> + +<p class="rig">May 18. 1812. +</p><br><br> + +<p class="mid">TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA.</p> + +<p class="rig">Circus, Minories, June 21. 1815.</p><br><br> + +<p class="sc">Sir,</p> + +<p>I request you will contradict in your next +publication the assertion of my <i>decease</i>, which is +calculated to injure considerably my interests +abroad as a merchant. (Vide your Review of +Parke's Travels, page 377.) In answer to this +unfounded information, which has been propagated +in your review of last month, I have to +acquaint you that I am not only in the land of +the living, but in excellent health, and waiting +to hear the testimony of some stranger or European +<a name="p434" id="p434"></a><span class="pagenum">[434]</span> +traveller (since the Africans are not to +be relied on), who shall establish the fact of <i>the +junction of the Nile of Sudan with that of +Egypt; or at least, the approximation of these +two mighty streams</i>. And notwithstanding <i>the</i> +insidious reflections and censures passed on the +native Africans, from whom I gathered much +of the information communicated to the public in +my account of Marocco, it must be allowed by all +liberal-minded men, that a native is more likely +to give an accurate account of his country than +a foreigner; and a residence of sixteen years in +a country may be allowed to give a man of common +observation experience enough to select +judiciously such intelligence as might be relied +on; and I have no hesitation in declaring it to +be my unalterable opinion, that <i>so soon as a traveller +shall have returned from the interior of +Africa, many of my assertions respecting those +regions will be confirmed</i>, and that information +founded on the testimony of unprejudiced and +disinterested Africans, will be found not so contemptible +as some learned persons have imagined.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">James G. Jackson</span>. +</p><br><br> + +<p><a name="p435" id="p435"></a><span class="pagenum">[435]</span></p><br><br> + +<p><i>Critical Observations on Abstracts from the Travels of +Ali Bey, and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal +of Literature, Science, and the Arts, edited at the +Royal Institution of Great Britain, Vol. I. No. II. +page 264</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +London, Dec. 19. 1817. +</p><br><br> + +<p>In the discussion on Aly Bey's Travels, in +the Journal of Science and the Arts, above mentioned, +p. 270. are the following words:--</p> + +<p>"Aly Bey has added, in a separate chapter, +all the information he received, respecting a +mediterranean sea, from a merchant of Marocco, +of the name of Sidi Matte Buhlal, who had +resided many years at Timbuctoo, and in other +countries of Sudan or Nigritia, the most material +of which was, that Tombut is a large town, very +trading, and inhabited by Moors and Negroes, +and was at the same distance from the Nile +Abid, (or Nile of the Negroes, or Niger,) as +Fez is from Wed Sebu, that is to say, <i>about three +hundred English miles</i>."</p> + +<p>As this passage is quoted from Aly Bey, by +the first literary society of Great Britain, and +is, therefore, calculated to create a doubt of +the accuracy of what I have said, respecting the +distance of the Nile El Abeed from Timbuctoo, +in the enlarged editions of my account of Marocco, +&c. page 297. I consider it a duty which +I owe to my country and to myself, not to let +<a name="p436" id="p436"></a><span class="pagenum">[436]</span> +this sentence pass through the press without +submitting to the public my observations on the +subject.</p> + +<p>Sidi Matte Buhlal is a native of Fas: the name +is properly Sidi El Mattie Bû Hellal. This gentleman +is one out of twenty authorities from +whom I derived the information recorded in my +account of Marocco, respecting Timbuctoo and +the interior of Africa; his whole family, which +is respectable and numerous, are among the first +Timbuctoo merchants that have their establishments +at Fas. I should, however, add, that +among the many authorities from whom I derived +my information relative to Timbuctoo, +there were two muselmen in particular,--merchants +of respectability and intelligence, who +came from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, soon after +<i>I opened that port to Dutch commerce, in the +capacity of agent of Holland, by order of the +then Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid</i>, brother +and predecessor of the present Emperor +Soliman. These two gentlemen had resided at +Timbuctoo, and in other parts of Sudan, fifteen +years, trading during the whole of that period +with Darbeyta, on the coast of the Red Sea, +with Jinnie, Housa, Wangara, Cashna, and other +countries of the interior, from whom, and from +others, equally intelligent and credible, I procured +my information respecting the <i>mediterranean +sea in the interior of Africa, called El Bahar +Assudan, i.e. the Sea of Sudan</i>, situated fifteen +days' journey east of Timbuctoo. These two +<a name="p437" id="p437"></a><span class="pagenum">[437]</span> +muselmen merchants had amassed considerable +fortunes at Timbuctoo, and were on their journey +to Fas, their native place; but in consequence +of a civil war at that time raging +throughout West Barbary, particularly in the +province of Haha, through which it was indispensable +that they should pass, on their way to +Fas, they sojourned with me two months; after +which they departed for Fas with a caravan.</p> + +<p>These intelligent Moors gave me much information +respecting Timbuctoo, and the interior +countries where they had resided; they sold me +many articles of Sudanic manufacture, among +which were three pieces of fine cotton cloth, manufactured +at Timbuctoo, and some ornaments of +pure gold <i>in or molu</i>, of exquisite workmanship, +of the manufacture of Jinnie; one of these pieces +of Timbuctoo manufacture, of cotton interwoven +with silk, of a square blue-and-white pattern, +dyed with <i>indigo of Timbuctoo</i>, I had the honour +to present to the British Museum, in April, +1796<a id="footnotetag239" name="footnotetag239"></a> +<a href="#footnote239"><sup class="sml">239</sup></a>, where it is now deposited.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote239" +name="footnote239"></a><b>Footnote 239:</b><a href="#footnotetag239"> +(return) </a> This piece of cloth, about two yards wide and five long, +I had the honour of offering to Sir Joseph Banks, who declined +receiving it; but at the same time suggested that it +was a manufacture deserving public notice, and would be +considered an acceptable present by the British Museum.</blockquote> + +<p>I have been led into this digression from certain +insinuations that have been<a id="footnotetag240" name="footnotetag240"></a> +<a href="#footnote240"><sup class="sml">240</sup></a> insidiously +propagated, reflecting on the accuracy of my +statements respecting the interior of Africa; +<a name="p438" id="p438"></a><span class="pagenum">[438]</span> +and I must add, that I always have felt, and still +feel confident, that in proportion as we shall become +more acquainted with the interior of this +unexplored continent, my account will be so +much the more authenticated: my confidence in +this opinion, (however dogmatical it may appear,) +is founded on the original and intelligent sources +of my information; on a long residence and +general acquaintance with all the principal inhabitants +of West Barbary, whose connections +lay in Sudan, and at Timbuctoo; in a competent +knowledge and practical acquaintance with the +languages of North Africa, and a consequent +ability to discriminate the accuracy of the +sources of my intelligence.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote240" +name="footnote240"></a><b>Footnote 240:</b><a href="#footnotetag240"> +(return) </a> See my letter to the editor of the Monthly Magazine, +for March, 1817; page 125.</blockquote> + +<p>This being premised, I now proceed to offer to +the public my animadversions on the above quotation +from the Journal of Science and the Arts.</p> + +<p>I have actually crossed the Wed Sebu, or the +River Sebu, alluded to in the above quotation, +which passes through the Berebber Kabyl of +Zimure Shelleh; I have crossed the same river +several times at the city of Mequinez, and also +at Meheduma, where it enters the Atlantic +Ocean, in lat. 34° 15' north, and from this experimental +knowledge of the course of that river, +I can affirm, with confidence, that it is not inaccurately +laid down in my map of West Barbary<a id="footnotetag241" name="footnotetag241"></a> +<a href="#footnote241"><sup class="sml">241</sup></a>, +and that it is not three hundred English +miles from Fas, but only six English miles from +<a name="p439" id="p439"></a><span class="pagenum">[439]</span> +that city. I can also assert, from incontestable +testimony, that Tombut, or Timbuctoo, is<a id="footnotetag242" name="footnotetag242"></a> +<a href="#footnote242"><sup class="sml">242</sup></a> not +three hundred miles from the Nile El Abeed, +but only about twelve English miles from that +stream, the latter being south of the town.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote241" +name="footnote241"></a><b>Footnote 241:</b><a href="#footnotetag241"> +(return) </a> For which see page 55.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote242" +name="footnote242"></a><b>Footnote 242:</b><a href="#footnotetag242"> +(return) </a> Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. +p. 297.</blockquote> + +<p>Respecting the following passage in the above +quoted Journal of Science and the Arts, p. 272, +"This river contains the fierce animals called +<i>Tzemsah</i>, which devour men," I shall only observe, +that <i>Tzemsah</i> is the word in Arabic which +denominates the <i>crocodile</i>. Farther on, in the +same page, we have the words,--"We must +suppose that the Joliba makes at this spot a +strange winding, which gives to the inhabitants +of Marocco the opinion they express." +This supposed winding is actually asserted to +exist, and is denominated by the Arabs<a id="footnotetag243" name="footnotetag243"></a> +<a href="#footnote243"><sup class="sml">243</sup></a> <i>El +Kose Nile</i>, i.e. the arch or curve of the Nile, +and is situated between the cities of Timbuctoo +and Jinnie.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote243" +name="footnote243"></a><b>Footnote 243:</b><a href="#footnotetag243"> +(return) </a> Idem, note, p. 305.</blockquote> + +<p>I should here adduce some further testimony +respecting the course of the Nile El Abeed; +but as the quotation from Aly Bey in the above +Journal of Sciences and the Arts, page 271. +asserts it to be towards the east, and again, in +page 272. declares it to be towards the west, +such incoherence, I presume, requires no confutation. +I consider that it originates from +Moorish inaccuracy. +<a name="p440" id="p440"></a><span class="pagenum">[440]</span></p> + +<p>The <i>La Mar Zarak</i> of Adams, if any such +river exists, may be a corruption of <i>Sagea el +Humra</i>, i.e. the Red Stream, a river in the +southern confines of Sahara, nearly in the same +longitude with Timbuctoo. This river the +late Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid, announced +as the southern boundary of his dominions; +but from the accounts which I have +had of it, it was not of that magnitude which +Adams ascribes to the Mar Zarak, nor was it +precisely in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, +when I was a resident in South Barbary: rivers, +however, <i>which pass through sandy or desert +districts</i>, often change their courses in the space +of twenty-four hours, by the drifting of the +moving sands impelled by the wind; instances +of which I have myself often witnessed.</p> + +<p>If this river proceeded from the Desert, it +might have had the name of <i>El Bahar Sahara</i>, i.e. +the River of Sahara; the word <i>La Mar</i> is a +lingua franca, or corrupt Spanish word, signifying +the sea, and might have been used to this +poor sailor by a native to make it the more intelligible +to him. Many Spanish words having +crept into the Arabic vocabulary, and are occasionally +used by those Africans who have had +intercourse with Europeans.</p> + +<p>The next passage for animadversion is as +follows:-- +<a name="p441" id="p441"></a><span class="pagenum">[441]</span></p> + +<p>"The state in which he represented Timbuctoo, +and its being the residence of a Negro +sovereign, instead of a muselman."</p> + +<p>The state in which he has represented Timbuctoo, +is, I think, extremely inaccurate; and +being a slave, it is more than probable, that he +was placed in a Fondaque<a id="footnotetag244" name="footnotetag244"></a> +<a href="#footnote244"><sup class="sml">244</sup></a>, or Caravansera, +belonging to the King, which he <i>mistook</i> for his +palace; but that his narrative should be deemed +inaccurate, because he has described the town +of Timbuctoo to be under the sovereignty of a +Negro prince, is to me incomprehensible.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote244" +name="footnote244"></a><b>Footnote 244:</b><a href="#footnotetag244"> +(return) </a> Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocoo, &c. +p. 298.</blockquote> + +<p>The various sources of information that I +have investigated, uniformly declare that sovereign +to be a Negro, and that his name in the +year 1800, was Woolo. This account, it appears, +is confirmed by Adams, who says,<a id="footnotetag245" name="footnotetag245"></a> +<a href="#footnote245"><sup class="sml">245</sup></a> Woolo +was King of Timbuctoo in 1810, and that he +was then old and grey-headed. Some years after +the above period, Riley's Narrative, epitomised +in Leyden's Discoveries and Travels in Africa, +vol. i., <i>speaking of the King of Timbuctoo, says, +this sovereign is a very large, old, grey-headed +black man</i>, called <i>Shegar</i>, which means Sultan. +This, however, I must observe is a misinterpretation +of the word <i>Shegar</i>, which is an African-Arabic +word, and signifies <i>red or carrotty</i>, +and is a word applicable to his physiognomy; +but certainly not to his rank:--<i>Abd Shegar</i>, a +<a name="p442" id="p442"></a><span class="pagenum">[442]</span> +carrotty or red Negro. If these two testimonies, +since 1800, be correct, then the <i>anachronism</i> of +which I am accused in the New Supplement to +the Encyclopedia Britannica, (title Africa,) is +misapplied.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote245" +name="footnote245"></a><b>Footnote 245:</b><a href="#footnotetag245"> +(return) </a> Since publishing this letter, Mr. Bowdich, in his Account +of Ashantee, pages 194, 195, says, Woolo was King +of Timbuctoo in 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bowdich was +at Ashantee.</blockquote> + +<p>Many of this king's civil officers, however, +in 1800, were muselmen; but the military were +altogether Negroes.</p> + +<p>However fervent the zeal of Muhamedanism +may be at Timbuctoo, it is not, I imagine, sufficient +to convert the Negroes, who have not the +best opinion of the Muhamedan tenets. The +Negroes, however, are disposed to abjure idolatry +for any other form of religion that they can +be persuaded to think preferable, or that holds +out a better prospect; a convincing proof of +which has been seen by the readiness of the +Africans of Congo and Angola, to renounce +their idolatry for the Christian faith, by the +conversion of thousands to that faith by the indefatigable +zeal of the catholic missionaries, +when the Portuguese first discovered those +countries, and which, if the Sovereign of Portugal +had persevered with that laudable zeal +with which he began to promote the conversion +of the Africans, the inhabitants of those extensive +and populous countries might, at this day, +have been altogether members of the Christian +church!! +<a name="p443" id="p443"></a><span class="pagenum">[443]</span></p><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of +Timbuctoo, or of Sudan</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.<a id="footnotetag246" name="footnotetag246"></a> +<a href="#footnote246"><sup class="sml">246</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote246" +name="footnote246"></a><b>Footnote 246:</b><a href="#footnotetag246"> +(return) </a> Inserted in March, 1817.</blockquote> + +<p class="rig">London, Jan. 25. 1817.</p><br><br> + +<p><span class="sc">Sir</span>,</p> + +<p>Having read some annotations, in the Journal +of a Mission to the Interior of Africa, by Mungo +Park, in 1805, which are calculated to persuade +some persons, that my Account of the Interior of +Africa is not altogether authentic, I feel myself +called upon to offer some cursory observations +to the public, in refutation of those aspersions. +(Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Mungo Park's +Second Journey, in 1805, pages 114. and 115.)</p> + +<p>Although I assert, on the concurrent testimony +of the best informed and most intelligent +natives of Sudan, that there exists a <a id="footnotetag247" name="footnotetag247"></a> +<a href="#footnote247"><sup class="sml">247</sup></a>water +communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, +I do not maintain that the <a id="footnotetag248" name="footnotetag248"></a> +<a href="#footnote248"><sup class="sml">248</sup></a>Nile of Sudan falls +into the <a id="footnotetag249" name="footnotetag249"></a> +<a href="#footnote249"><sup class="sml">249</sup></a>Nile of Egypt, but that it hath a +communication with it, or with some river that +<a name="p444" id="p444"></a><span class="pagenum">[444]</span> +connects itself with the Nile of Egypt, which +opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornemann, on +African authority.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote247" +name="footnote247"></a><b>Footnote 247:</b><a href="#footnotetag247"> +(return) </a> Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, +page 310.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote248" +name="footnote248"></a><b>Footnote 248:</b><a href="#footnotetag248"> +(return) </a> (<i>Nile el Kabeer</i>) the Great Nile, (<i>Bahar el Abeed</i>, or +<i>Nile el Abeed</i>) the Nile of Slaves or Negroes, (<i>Nile Sudan</i>) +the Nile of Sudan or Nigritia, are the various names applied +to the river that passes by Timbuctoo, and through the interior +of Sudan, from west to east.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote249" +name="footnote249"></a><b>Footnote 249:</b><a href="#footnotetag249"> +(return) </a> <i>Nile Masser</i> is the name applied to the Nile of Egypt.</blockquote> + +<p>It is very probable that this junction is formed +by a stream that flows westward towards Wangara +through the country called <a id="footnotetag250" name="footnotetag250"></a> +<a href="#footnote250"><sup class="sml">250</sup></a> Bahar Kulla, +and Lake Dwi, from the source of the Nile of +Egypt, or from that part of the Jibbel Kumri, +or Lunar Mountains, which form the southern +boundary of Donga.</p> + +<p>If this be so, the junction of the Nile el +Abeed, of Timbuctoo, and the Bahar el Aheäd +of Donga<a id="footnotetag251" name="footnotetag251"></a> +<a href="#footnote251"><sup class="sml">251</sup></a>, (or more properly the Bahar el +Abeed,) is established, and the water communication +between Timbuctoo and Cairo is proved; +admitting, however, that the Negroes reported +by me to have performed the<a id="footnotetag252" name="footnotetag252"></a> +<a href="#footnote252"><sup class="sml">252</sup></a> voyage by water, +took their boat or canoe ashore, to ascend the +cataracts, in the country between Wangara and +Donga.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote250" +name="footnote250"></a><b>Footnote 250:</b><a href="#footnotetag250"> +(return) </a> <i>Bahar Kulla</i> is an Arabic term, signifying the sea altogether, +implying an alluvial country, (probably forming a +part of the mediterranean sea of central Africa). See Major +Rennel's Map in the Proceedings of the African Association, +vol. i. 8vo. page 209. lat. N. 10°, long. 18°.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote251" +name="footnote251"></a><b>Footnote 251:</b><a href="#footnotetag251"> +(return) </a> Vide Major Kennel's Map in the Proceedings of the +African Association, 8vo. edition, vol. i. page 209.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote252" +name="footnote252"></a><b>Footnote 252:</b><a href="#footnotetag252"> +(return) </a> Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, +page 312.</blockquote> + +<p>Mr. Park's annotator, in the spirit of controversy +with which he appears to be endued, may +say, the fact of this stream running to the west +towards Wangara, cannot be admitted, because +<a name="p445" id="p445"></a><span class="pagenum">[445]</span> +Mr. Browne saw a ridge of mountains extending +in that direction; but Mr. Browne did not ascertain +that this was an uninterrupted ridge; +the river might therefore pass through some +chasm similar to that which I have seen in crossing +the Atlas Mountains, or through some intermediate +plain.</p> + +<p>The annotator further says<a id="footnotetag253" name="footnotetag253"></a> +<a href="#footnote253"><sup class="sml">253</sup></a>, "It is needless +to comment upon such hearsay statements, received +from an African traveller." This assertion +being calculated to impress on the public +mind, that I founded my hypothesis respecting +the junction of the Niles of Africa on the simple +and single statement of one individual African +traveller; I feel it incumbent on me thus publicly +to declare, that <i>the junction alluded to is +founded on the universal and concurrent testimony +of all the most intelligent and well informed +native African travellers</i> (for the most +part natives of Sudan), not one of whom differed +in this opinion, but unanimously declared +it to be an uncontroverted fact, that the waters +of the Nile of Egypt joined the waters of the +Nile el Abeed, which passes near Timbuctoo to +the east; and that there exists, without a doubt, +a water communication between Cairo in Egypt, +and Timbuctoo in Sudan. Now, if, as M. de +Bailly observes, "<i>la vérité se fait connaître par +le concours des témoignages</i>," it must be admitted, +<a name="p446" id="p446"></a><span class="pagenum">[446]</span> +by men of liberal sentiments, that it is somewhat +more than a hearsay statement; and what better +foundation can there possibly be for the truth of +any geological fact, than the concurrent testimony +of the best-informed natives of the country +described?</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote253" +name="footnote253"></a><b>Footnote 253:</b><a href="#footnotetag253"> +(return) </a> Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Park's Second Journey +page 115.</blockquote> + +<p>With respect to precision being unfavourable +to authenticity<a id="footnotetag254" name="footnotetag254"></a> +<a href="#footnote254"><sup class="sml">254</sup></a>, I consider this a new dogma; +and if I were disposed to confute it, (but it +carries with it its own confutation,) I should +point out many hearsay evidences, precisely recorded +in my Account of Marocco, which have +been confirmed already by Ali Bey (El Abassy) +and many others; but "<i>non est hic locus</i>."</p> + + +<p class="rig"> +<span class="sc">J.G. Jackson</span>. +</p><br><br> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote254" +name="footnote254"></a><b>Footnote 254:</b><a href="#footnotetag254"> +(return) </a> Vide Appendix, No. II. to Park's Second Journey +page 103.</blockquote><br> + +<p><i>Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation +of Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his +Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c.</i></p> + +<p class="rig"> +London, 16th Jan, 1818.</p><br><br> + +<p>It is a satisfaction to perceive (after a lapse of +eight or nine years since the publication of my +account of Marocco and the interior of Africa), +that in proportion as we are becoming better acquainted +with the interior of that continent, my +account becomes more authenticated, notwithstanding +the attempts that have been so insidiously +made to invalidate it. +<a name="p447" id="p447"></a><span class="pagenum">[447]</span></p> + +<p>The various hypotheses, for the most part +founded in theory, that have within the last +seven years, been adopted respecting the course +of the <i>Nile el Abeed</i> (Niger), are beginning now +to fall to the ground, and the learned and judicious +editor of the Supplement to the New Encyclopedia +Britannica, founding his opinions, as +it should seem, upon the facts that have been +corroborated respecting the interior of Africa, +has actually adopted my opinion;<a id="footnotetag255" name="footnotetag255"></a> +<a href="#footnote255"><sup class="sml">255</sup></a> viz.</p> + +<p>That there is an union of waters between the +Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan<a id="footnotetag256" name="footnotetag256"></a> +<a href="#footnote256"><sup class="sml">256</sup></a>; where the +common receptacle is, I have not ventured to +declare, but it is probable that it may be in the +Bahar Kulla<a id="footnotetag257" name="footnotetag257"></a> +<a href="#footnote257"><sup class="sml">257</sup></a>, in Wangara, or in the <a id="footnotetag258" name="footnotetag258"></a> +<a href="#footnote258"><sup class="sml">258</sup></a>Sea of +Sudan; the opinion that the junction is formed in +the Sea of Sudan is supported by the Shereef +Imhammed, who saw the Nile at Cashna, and declared +that it was so rapid there from east to west, +that vessels could not stem it.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote255" +name="footnote255"></a><b>Footnote 255:</b><a href="#footnotetag255"> +(return) </a> See my letter to the Editor of the Monthly Magazine, +vol. xliii. March, 1817, page 125.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote256" +name="footnote256"></a><b>Footnote 256:</b><a href="#footnotetag256"> +(return) </a> It is incorrect to say, that the word <i>Nile</i> is applied, in +Africa, to any great river: the name, I can with confidence declare, +is never applied to any river in North Africa, except the +Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan; whoever has propagated +this opinion has mistaken the matter altogether. See Proceedings +of the African Association, vol. i. page 540.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote257" +name="footnote257"></a><b>Footnote 257:</b><a href="#footnotetag257"> +(return) </a> See Major Rennell's Map of North Africa, lat. north 6°, +long, west 18°, &c.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote258" +name="footnote258"></a><b>Footnote 258:</b><a href="#footnotetag258"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo, +&c. page 310.</blockquote> + +<p>Again: Parke's intelligence, in his second +<a name="p448" id="p448"></a><span class="pagenum">[448]</span> +journey, demonstrates an union of waters in the +(Baseafeena<a id="footnotetag259" name="footnotetag259"></a> +<a href="#footnote259"><sup class="sml">259</sup></a>) Sea of Sudan; for he says, the +current was said to be sometimes one way, and +sometimes another; which I will take the liberty +to interpret thus:--</p> + +<p>That the current from the Eastern Nile, was +westward into the Sea of Sudan, and the current +of the Western Nile was eastward into the same +sea of Sudan: thus the current would be sometimes +one way, and sometimes another, making +the Sea of Sudan the common receptacle for +the Eastern as well as for the Western Nile.</p> + +<p>Ptolemy's Sea of Nigritia is undoubtedly the +same with my Sea of Sudan; <i>Lybia Palus</i><a id="footnotetag260" name="footnotetag260"></a> +<a href="#footnote260"><sup class="sml">260</sup></a> being +the Latin denomination, as <i>Bahar Sudan</i> is the +Arabic for the interior lake called the Sea of +Sudan; but whether this sea of Sudan will ultimately +prove to be situated<a id="footnotetag261" name="footnotetag261"></a> +<a href="#footnote261"><sup class="sml">261</sup></a> as I have described +it, fifteen journies<a id="footnotetag262" name="footnotetag262"></a> +<a href="#footnote262"><sup class="sml">262</sup></a> east of Timbuctoo, or 450 +English miles, or as Ptolemy has described it, +or in the intermediate distance between the two +extremes, must be left for future travellers to +ascertain.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote259" +name="footnote259"></a><b>Footnote 259:</b><a href="#footnotetag259">(return) </a> Another name for the Sea of Sudan, as will hereafter +appear.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote260" +name="footnote260"></a><b>Footnote 260:</b><a href="#footnotetag260">(return) </a> See Ptolemy's Map of North Africa.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote261" +name="footnote261"></a><b>Footnote 261:</b><a href="#footnotetag261">(return) </a> See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, page 310.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote262" +name="footnote262"></a><b>Footnote 262:</b><a href="#footnotetag262">(return) </a> Fifteen journies horse travelling, which are the journies +here alluded to, at thirty miles a-day, is 450 British miles.</blockquote> + +<p>The enterprising and indefatigable, the patient +and persevering genius of Burkhardt, deriving +incalculable advantages from a long residence in +the eastern regions of Africa, may probably decree +<p><a name="p449" id="p449"></a><span class="pagenum">[449]</span> +him to be the person to clear up this long-contested +geographical point, unless the fascination +of Arabian manners, or some Utopia in the +interior regions of that continent, should wean +him from the desire to re-visit his native +country.</p> + +<p>This intelligence of Park may be considered +some corroboration of what I have maintained +respecting the union of waters between the +Eastern and Western Niles.<a id="footnotetag263" name="footnotetag263"></a> +<a href="#footnote263"><sup class="sml">263</sup></a></p> + +<p>The following testimonies are some confirmation +of my report respecting decked vessels, &c. +in the interior of Africa.<a id="footnotetag264" name="footnotetag264"></a> +<a href="#footnote264"><sup class="sml">264</sup></a></p> + +<p>Dr. Stetzen, a German physician residing at +Alexandria<a id="footnotetag265" name="footnotetag265"></a> +<a href="#footnote265"><sup class="sml">265</sup></a>, says, that he has received intelligence +from a pilgrim, on his way to Mecca, a +native of <i>Ber Noh,</i> or <i>Bernou</i><a id="footnotetag266" name="footnotetag266"></a> +<a href="#footnote266"><sup class="sml">266</sup></a>, that the river +within a mile of the city is as large as the Egyptian +Nile, and overflows its banks; <i>it is navigated +by vessels of considerable dimensions, carrying +sails and oars.</i></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote263" +name="footnote263"></a><b>Footnote 263:</b><a href="#footnotetag263"> +(return) </a> See Monthly Magazine, March, 1817, page 125.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote264" +name="footnote264"></a><b>Footnote 264:</b><a href="#footnotetag264"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. +page 309.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote265" +name="footnote265"></a><b>Footnote 265:</b><a href="#footnotetag265"> +(return) </a> For full particulars, see New Supp. to Ency. Brit. article +"Africa."</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote266" +name="footnote266"></a><b>Footnote 266:</b><a href="#footnotetag266"> +(return) </a> This Bernou, or according to the Arabic orthography, +<i>Ber Noh</i>, is asserted by the Arabs to be the birth-place of +the Patriarch Noah.</blockquote> + +<p>Mr. Barnes states, that the Niger discharges +itself into a large lake; that he has heard from +the Black traders that there are white inhabitants +upon the borders of this lake; and has been +<a name="p450" id="p450"></a><span class="pagenum">[450]</span> +told, by people who have seen them, that they +dress in the style of Barbary Moors, and wear +turbans, but do not speak Arabic. See Report +of Committee of Council.<a id="footnotetag267" name="footnotetag267"></a> +<a href="#footnote267"><sup class="sml">267</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote267" +name="footnote267"></a><b>Footnote 267:</b><a href="#footnotetag267"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. p, 309.</blockquote> + +<p>Park, in his second journey, was informed, +that "one month's travel south of Baedo, through +the kingdom of Grotto, will bring the traveller +to the country of the Christians, who have their +houses on the banks of the <i>Ba Seafeena</i><a id="footnotetag268" name="footnotetag268"></a> +<a href="#footnote268"><sup class="sml">268</sup></a>, which +they describe as incomparably larger than the lake +Dehebby (Dibbie)."--This is another corroboration +of the accuracy of my account of the interior +of Africa; but before I dismiss this subject, +I should observe, that from the general ignorance +of the African Arabic, an important circumstance +respecting this <i>Ba Seafeena</i>, is not yet +(it appears) discovered. It is this:--the words <i>Ba +Seafeena</i>, or, according to the correct Arabic +orthography, <i>Bahar Sefeena</i>, literally translated +into English, signifies the Sea of Ships, and is +evidently only another name for the Sea of Sudan, +declaring it to be a sea wherein ships are +found!</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote268" +name="footnote268"></a><b>Footnote 268:</b><a href="#footnotetag268"> +(return) </a> See New Supp. to Ency. Brit. article "Africa."</blockquote> + +<p>Here then are two topographical facts first +asserted by me, among the moderns, to exist in +the heart of Africa, and since confirmed by Ali +Bey, Park, and Dr. Sietzen, or, as the enlightened +editor of the Supplement to the New Encyclopedia +Britt. observes,</p> + +<p>"We have thus three independent testimonies<a id="footnotetag269" name="footnotetag269"></a> +<a href="#footnote269"><sup class="sml">269</sup></a> +<a name="p451" id="p451"></a><span class="pagenum">[451]</span> +from opposite quarters, meeting exactly in +the same point; nor does there, as far as we +know, exist any evidence <i>at all respectable</i> to +the contrary."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote269" +name="footnote269"></a><b>Footnote 269:</b><a href="#footnotetag269"> +(return) </a> The testimonies here alluded to are Hornman, Park, and +Jackson.</blockquote> + +<p>It now remains for me to declare (that as opinions +have been industriously propagated tending +to discredit my account of Marocco, and the +interior of Africa,) that nothing has been set +down therein, until I had previously investigated +the qualifications of the narrators, their +means of knowledge, and whether the respective +vocations of the several narrators made it +their interest to disguise or misrepresent the +truth of their communications; and, after ascertaining +these important points, I have generally +had recourse to other testimonies, and +have seldom recorded any thing until confirmed +by three or four <i>concurrent</i> evidences: on this +<i>pyramidical basis</i> is founded the intelligence in +my account of Marocco, and of the interior of +Africa, annexed to that account.</p> + +<p>This assertion is to be understood in respect +to intelligence that I could not ascertain by +ocular demonstration.</p> + +<p>Finally, my description of the black heartheaded +serpent, called Bouska<a id="footnotetag270" name="footnotetag270"></a> +<a href="#footnote270"><sup class="sml">270</sup></a>, has been doubted; +but a late traveller<a id="footnotetag271" name="footnotetag271"></a> +<a href="#footnote271"><sup class="sml">271</sup></a> has confirmed the accuracy +<a name="p452" id="p452"></a><span class="pagenum">[452]</span> +of my account; even of this extraordinary animal.--In +Riley's Narrative of his Shipwreck on the +<a name="p453" id="p453"></a><span class="pagenum">[453]</span> +Coast of Sahara is given an account of an exhibition +by two <i>Isawie</i><a id="footnotetag272" name="footnotetag272"></a> +<a href="#footnote272"><sup class="sml">272</sup></a>, who do not appear to +<a name="p454" id="p454"></a><span class="pagenum">[454]</span> +have been adepts in the art of fascinating these +serpents; for I have frequently seen them manage +<a name="p455" id="p455"></a><span class="pagenum">[455]</span> +and charm the <i>Bouska</i> much more adroitly +than those who exhibited at Rabat before Riley, +although its bite is more deadly, and its strength +considerably greater, than that of the <i>El Effah!</i></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote270" +name="footnote270"></a><b>Footnote 270:</b><a href="#footnotetag270"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote271" +name="footnote271"></a><b>Footnote 271:</b><a href="#footnotetag271"> +(return) </a><p>"I paid two dollars for a station, and I looked into the +room without interruption. It was about twenty feet long, +and fifteen broad, paved with tiles and plastered within. +The windows had also been secured by an additional grating +made of wire, in such a manner as to render it impossible +for the serpents to escape from the room: it had but one +door, and that had a hole cut through it six or eight inches +square: this hole was also secured by a grating. In the +room stood two men, who appeared to be Arabs, with long +bushy hair and beards; and I was told they were a particular +race of men, that could charm serpents.</p> + +<p>"A wooden box, about four feet long and two wide, was +placed near the door, with a string fastened to a slide at one +end of it; this string went through a hole in the door. The +two serpent-eaters were dressed in haiks only, and those very +small ones. After they had gone through their religious +ceremonies most devoutly, they appeared to take an eternal +farewell of each other: this done, one of them retired from +the room, and shut the door tight after him. The Arab +within seemed to be in dreadful distress. I could observe his +heart throb, and his bosom heave most violently: and he +cried out very loudly, "<i>Allah houakiber</i>," three times; +which is, as I understood it, <i>God have mercy on me</i>.<a id="footnotetag273" name="footnotetag273"></a> +<a href="#footnote273"><sup class="sml">273</sup></a></p> + +<p>"The Arab was at the farthest end of the room: at that +instant the cage was opened, and a serpent crept out slowly; +he was: about four feet long, and eight inches in circumference; +his colours were the most beautiful in nature, being +bright, and variegated with a deep yellow, a purple, a cream +colour, black and brown, spotted, &c. As soon as he saw +the Arab in the room, his eyes, which were small and green, +kindled as with fire; he erected himself in a second, his head +two feet high; and darting on the defenseless Arab, seized +him between the folds of his haik, just above his right hipbone, +hissing most horribly; the Arab gave a horrid shriek, +when another serpent came out of the cage. This last was +black, very shining, and appeared to be seven or eight feet +long, but not more than two inches in diameter: as soon as +he had cleared the cage, he cast his <i>red fiery eyes</i> on his intended +victim, thrust out his forked tongue, <i>threw himself +into a coil, erected his head, which was in the centre of the coil</i>, +three feet from the floor, and flattening out the skin above +his head and eyes, in the form, and nearly of the size of a +human heart, and springing like lightning on the Arab, struck +its fangs into his neck near the jugular vein, while his tail +and body flew round his neck and arms in two or three folds. +The Arab set up the most hideous and piteous yelling, foamed +and frothed at the mouth, grasping the folds of the serpent, +which were round his arms with his right hand, and seemed +to be in the greatest agony, striving to tear the reptile from +around his neck, while with his left he seized hold of it near +its head, but could not break its hold: by this time the other +had turned itself around his legs, and kept biting all around +the other parts of his body, making apparently deep incisions: +the blood, issuing from every wound (both in his neck +and body,) streamed all over his haik and skin. My blood +was chilled in my veins with horror at this sight, and it was +with difficulty my legs would support my frame.</p> + +<p>"Notwithstanding the Arab's greatest exertions to tear +away the serpents with his hands, they turned themselves +still tighter, stopped his breath, and he fell to the floor, +where he continued for a moment, as if in the most inconceivable +agony, rolling over, and covering every part of his +body with his own blood and froth, until he ceased to move, +and appeared to have expired. In his last struggle, he had +wounded the black serpent with his teeth, as it was striving, +as it were, to force its head into his mouth, which wound +Footnote: seemed to increase its rage. At this instant I heard the shrill +sound of a whistle, and looking towards the door saw the +other Arab applying a call to his mouth: the serpents listened +to the music, their fury seemed to forsake them by +degrees, they disengaged themselves leisurely from the apparently +lifeless carcase, and creeping towards the cage, they +soon entered it, and were immediately fastened in.</p> + +<p>"The door of the apartment was now opened, and he +without ran to assist his companion: he had a phial of blackish +liquor in one hand, and an iron chissel in the other: finding +the teeth of his companion set, he thrust in the chissel, forced +them open, and then poured a little of the liquor into his +mouth; and holding the lips together, applied his mouth to +the dead man's nose, and filled his lungs with air: he next +anointed his numerous wounds with a little of the same liquid, +and yet no sign of life, appeared. I thought he was dead in +earnest; his neck and veins were exceedingly swollen; when +his comrade taking up the lifeless trunk in his arms, brought +it out into the open air, and continued the operation of blowing +for several minutes before a sign of life appeared; at +length he gasped, and after a time recovered so far as to +be able to speak. The swellings in his neck, body, and legs +gradually subsided, as they continued washing the wounds +with clear cold water and a sponge, and applying the black +liquor occasionally; a clean haik was wrapped about him, +but his strength seemed so far exhausted that he could not +support himself standing, so his comrade laid him on the +ground by a wall, where he sunk into a sleep. This exhibition +lasted for about a quarter of an hour from the time the +serpents were let loose until they were called off, and it was +more than an hour from that time before he could speak. I +thought I could discover that the poisonous fangs had been +pulled out of these formidable serpents' jaws, and mentioned +that circumstance to the showman, who said, that they had +indeed been extracted; and when I wished to know how +swellings on his neck and other parts could be assumed, he +assured me, that though their deadly fangs were out, yet +that the poisonous quality of their breath and spittle would +cause the death of those they attack; that after a bite from +either of these serpents, no man could exist longer than fifteen +minutes: and that there was no remedy for any but +those <i>who were endowed by the Almighty with power to charm, +and to manage them</i>; and that he and his associates were of +that favoured number! The Moors and Arabs call the thick +and beautiful serpent <i>El Effah</i>, and the long black and heartheaded +one <i>El Bouskah</i>.</p> + +<p>"I afterwards saw engravings of these two serpents in +<i>Jackson's Marocco</i>; which are very correct resemblances. +They are said to be very numerous on and about the south +foot of the Atlas mountains and border of the Desert, where +these were caught when young, and where they often attack +both men and beasts."--Vide <i>Riley's Shipwreck and Captivity +in the Great Desert</i>, p. 550.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote272" +name="footnote272"></a><b>Footnote 272:</b><a href="#footnotetag272"> +(return) </a> Disciples of Seedy ben Isa, whose sanctuary is at Fas, +and who possess the art of fascinating serpents.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote273" +name="footnote273"></a><b>Footnote 273:</b><a href="#footnotetag273"> +(return) </a> N.B. This is a misinterpretation of the Arabic words +here used, which, literally translated, signify, <i>God alone, is +great!</i>--J.G.J.</blockquote><br> + + + +<p class="mid"><i>Animadversions on the Orthography of African<br> Names</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">(TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE,<br> +INSERTED MAY, 1818.)</p> + +<p class="rig">Bennet's-hill, Feb. 1818.</p><br><br> + +<p class="sc">Sir,</p> + +<p>I should be much surprised to find that Jackson's +account of what he has heard is doubted, +if I did not remember that Bruce's account of +<a name="p456" id="p456"></a><span class="pagenum">[456]</span> +what he had seen was disbelieved. Nothing human +can appear to me more deserving of implicit +credit than the intelligence the former of +these writers gives respecting Timbuctoo. He +has not seen it, it is true. I have not seen Lisbon; +but, if I had, and were to sit down to +write an account of it, some things would be +necessary to be described, with regard to which +I should feel a degree of uncertainty; and, having +given an account of Lisbon, if I were to visit +it again, I should find others on which I had +been mistaken. But let me arrange in my own +mind the information I want respecting Lisbon; +let me make enquiries of twenty intelligent persons +who have resided there; let me carefully +compare their different accounts, and who shall +doubt the accuracy of the result?</p> + +<p>Mr. Jackson has had an opportunity of acquiring +information respecting Timbuctoo that +no other European ever had, by having the direction +of commerce in a city frequented by Timbuctan +merchants; a city, the port of which is +called, in Arabic, <i>Bab Sudan</i>, the Gate of Sudan. +Mr. Jackson was qualified to make use of +this advantage to an extent that no other European +ever was, by a practical, and even critical +knowledge of the general language of the +country,--the African Arabic. To these Mr. +Jackson added an ardent spirit of research, an +industry which neglected no opportunity, a caution +to compare, a judgment to discriminate, +and a firmness to decide. Who, that weighs +<a name="p457" id="p457"></a><span class="pagenum">[457]</span> +these things, can doubt the accuracy of his intelligence +respecting Sudan? I even regard his +orthography as the standard of correctness, and +am surprised that any person should continue to +write Timbuctoo instead of Timbuctoo, or Fez +instead of Fas.</p> + +<p>I am inclined to believe that Adams has been +at Timbuctoo, though I do not consider it as +proved; but, supposing that he has, and that I +wished to become acquainted with that city, +would I apply for information to an illiterate +slave, who was confined within narrow precincts? +Or would I rely upon the united testimony of +twenty persons of education, who had each a +wider field of observation?</p> + +<p>I have read "Jackson's Account of Marocco" +twice through, at different periods, with great +attention; and I do most heartily join in the +confidence expressed by the enlightened and judicious +author, that, in proportion as the interior +of Africa shall be more known, the truth of +his account of it will be made evident.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +<span class="sc">Catherine Hutton</span>. +</p><br><br> + + +<p class="mid"><i>Hints for the Civilisation of Barbary, and Diffusion of<br> +Commerce</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig"> +March 16, 1818. +</p><br><br> + +<p>Algiers, and the territory belonging to it, is +governed by despotic Turks, the refuse of the +Ottoman troops; who maintain their power over +the Moors and Arabs of the plains (who are the +<a name="p458" id="p458"></a><span class="pagenum">[458]</span> +cultivators of the country), and over the Berebbers +(who are the aborigines of the country), or +inhabitants of the mountains of Atlas, which terminate +this sovereignty on the south, and divide +Algiers from Bled-al-Jereed. The first principle +of this barbarous and sanguinary government, +according io an African adage, is to "<i>Maintain +the arm of power, by making streams of blood flow, +without intermission, around the throne!</i>" This +country,--the government of which reflects disgrace +on Christendom, which has been, during +many ages the scourge of Christian mariners, and +of all who navigate the Mediterranean Sea,--has +often been conquered. The Romans reduced +Numidia and Mauritania into Roman provinces. +This beautiful garden of the world was +afterwards conquered by the Vandals; then by +the Greeks, during the reign of Justinian, under +Belisarius; and, finally, three times by the Arabs, +viz. in the 647th year of Christ, by Abdallah +and Zobeer; in the year 667, by Ak'bah for the +Kalif Moawiah; and in the year 692, by Hassan, +the governor of Egypt, for the Kalif Abd Elmelik. +Not one of the armies of these warriors +ever exceeded 50,000 men.</p> + +<p>After these general conquests, the partial conquests +of the Portuguese and Spaniards, about +the end of the fifteenth and beginning of the +sixteenth century, were effected by a mere handful +of men; and, in 1509, the latter rendered +the kingdom of Algiers tributary to them: but, +afterwards, they lost it by the ferocity of their +<a name="p459" id="p459"></a><span class="pagenum">[459]</span> +chiefs, and by the fanaticism of their soldiers +and priests; and, finally, by their perfidy and +intolerance, they made themselves enemies to +the various (<i>Kabyles</i>) tribes of Mauritania, and +thereby lost their conquest.</p> + +<p>The repeated insults, offered by these ruffians +to civilised Europe, cannot be efficiently +punished by a bombardment; a measure which +punishes many innocent subjects for the insults +offered by their government. No one acquainted +with the character of the natives of +Barbary will maintain, that the destruction of a +few thousands of the peaceable inhabitants, or +the burning of many houses, is a national calamity +in the eyes of a Muselman chief; who +would himself commit the same ravage and destruction +that was so gallantly effected by the +British fleet, under Lord Exmouth, for half the +money it cost to accomplish it.</p> + +<p>When Lord St. Vincent was off Cadiz with +the British fleet, and could not obtain the object +which he sought of the Emperor of Marocco; +his Lordship, after refusing to comply with the +Emperor's request, communicated to his Lordship +by the Emperor's envoy, or agent, Rais Ben +Embark, told the Rais to inform his Emperor, +that, if he did not change his conduct very soon, +he would begin a war with him, and such a war +as he had neither seen nor read of before. When +the Rais reported this to the Emperor Soliman, +he enquired what kind of war an admiral could +wage against him; some one of the divan observed, +that he would destroy the ports on the +<a name="p460" id="p460"></a><span class="pagenum">[460]</span> +coast; adding, that it would cost a certain large +sum of money to effect that destruction. Upon +which the Emperor exclaimed, that, for half +that amount, he would himself destroy all these +ports.--This affair happened in September, 1798.</p> + +<p>There is a prophecy in Barbary, that, from +time immemorial, has been generally credited +by the inhabitants. It has been transmitted to +them by some fakeer, that the land of the Muselmen +will be wrested from them by the Christians; +and there is an impression, that the period +when this event will take place is not far distant. +They also believe that this event will happen +on a Friday (the Muselman Sabbath), whilst +they are occupied at their devotions at the <i>Dohor</i>, +service of prayer. Accordingly, at this period,--viz. +from twelve till half-past one o'clock,--the +gates of all the town's on the coast are shut +and bolted every Friday. This attack, forsooth, +is to happen whilst they are occupied at prayer, +because they are so infatuated with an opinion +of their own valour, that they will not believe +that Christians would presume to attack them +openly, when armed and prepared for the combat. +It should seem that these people begin +now seriously to anticipate the near approach of +this predestined conquest, and have accordingly +entered into a kind of holy alliance, offensive +and defensive: to which, it is said, the Emperor +of Marocco, and the Deys of Tunis and Tripoli, +have acceded; and that this holy alliance +is crowned by the Ottoman Emperor. +<a name="p461" id="p461"></a><span class="pagenum">[461]</span></p> + +<p>It is more than probable, that the Dey of +Algiers, goaded by the blow inflicted by +Lord Exmouth,--which has increased his hatred +to Christians, and has inflamed his desire +of revenge,--will not fail to seek every opportunity +(according to the known principles of +Muhamedanism), of retaliating and insulting +the Europeans, whenever a favourable opportunity +may offer, even at the risk of another +bombardment. This opinion has been confirmed +by his late conduct; and by the activity that has +been manifested in the fortifications, in increasing +their military force, in building and equipping +new vessels, to infest the Mediterranean with +their abominable piracies; all which proceedings +demonstrate the hostile intentions of the Dey +beyond all doubt.</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p class="mid"><i>Plan for the Conquest of Algiers.</i></p> + +<p>The inhabitants of the plains are bigoted to +the Muhamedan tenets; but they would readily +exchange the iron rod that rules them for +a more mild and beneficial form of government. +A well-disciplined European army of 50,000 +men, would assuredly effect their complete conquest +without much difficulty: such an army, +directed by a Wellington, would perform wonders, +and astound the Africans. After the conquest, +an energetic, decisive, but beneficent +form of government, would be necessary, to +retain the country, and to conquer and annihilate +<a name="p462" id="p462"></a><span class="pagenum">[462]</span> +the repugnancy which these people entertain +to our religious tenets. A system of rule +formed on the principles of the English constitution,--directed +by good policy, benevolence, +and religious toleration,--would not fail to reconcile +these hostile tribes, and attach them to +rational government. The Berebbers would +readily assimilate to such a government; and, +although by nature a treacherous race, they +would rejoice to see the country in possession +of a government which, they would perceive, +strove to promote the welfare and prosperity of +the mountaineers, as well as the inhabitants of +the plains; and their own interest would thus +gradually subdue the antipathy resulting from +religious prejudices.</p> + +<p>A general knowledge of the African Arabic +would be essentially necessary; and I think a +school might be established in England, on the +Madras system, for initiating youths (going out +to Africa) in the rudiments of that language. +This would be attended with most important +advantages; and might be accomplished in a +very short time. The conquest of Algiers being +thus effected, that of the neighbouring states +would follow, without difficulty, by a disciplined +army of European troops; keeping the principle +ever in view, of conciliating the natives, without +swerving from an energetic and decisive mode +of government.</p> + +<p>The advantages that would necessarily result +from a successful attack upon Africa, would be-- +<a name="p463" id="p463"></a><span class="pagenum">[463]</span></p> + +<p>1. An incalculable demand for spices, and +East India manufactures of silk and cotton.</p> + +<p>2. A similar demand for coffees, and for sugars, +manufactured and unmanufactured; as well +as for other articles of West India produce.</p> + +<p>3. An incalculable demand for all our various +articles of manufacture.</p> + +<p>On the other hand, we should obtain from this +fine country,--</p> + +<p>1. An immense supply of the finest wheat, +and other grain, that the world produces.</p> + +<p>2. We should be able to open a direct communication +with the interior regions of Africa,--which +have baffled the enterprise of ancient and +modern Europe: the fertile and populous districts +which lie contiguous to the Nile of Sudan, +throughout the whole of the interior of Africa, +would become, in a few years, as closely connected +to us, by a mutual exchange of benefits, +as our own colonies; and such a stimulus would +be imparted to British enterprise and industry, +as would secure to us such stores of gold as would +equal the riches of Solomon, and immortalize the +prince who should cherish this great commerce +to its maturity.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">Vasco De Gama</span>. +</p><br><br> + +<p><a name="p464" id="p464"></a><span class="pagenum">[464]</span></p><br><br> + +<p class="mid">(TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.)</p> + +<p class="rig">Liverpool, Dec. 17. 1818.</p><br><br> + +<p class="sc"> +Sir, +</p> + +<p>In "<i>The Portfolio</i>," a Monthly Miscellany +for May, 1817, published at Philadelphia, there +is rather an interesting review of Ali Bey's travels. +The writer says, "Ali Bey has rectified +various errors in the common maps of Marocco. +The river Luccos, for instance, flows to the +South, and not to the North of Alcasser; and +the city of Fas, according to Ali Bey, is situated +in 34° 6' north latitude, and not as laid down +in the Maps of Arrowsmith, Rennell, Delille, +Golberri, &c."--If, however, he had given himself +the trouble to consult the map of West Barbary, +in Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. &c. +(which is by far the most accurate extant, and +whose geographical orthography has been adopted +in all the best modern English maps,) he would +have seen that Fas is in 34° north latitude; that +the river Elkos, or Luccos, is described in that +map, (which was published several years before +Ali Bey's travels,) as running south of Alcasser.</p> + +<p>In describing the funeral cry at Marocco, the +editor, or reviewer, impresses his reader with +an idea that this funeral cry is that of the Moors, +whereas it is no such thing: it is the practice of +the Jews only in West Barbary to cry "Ah! +Ah!" and lacerate their faces with their finger +<a name="p465" id="p465"></a><span class="pagenum">[465]</span> +nails; after which they wash, drink brandy, and +enjoy themselves.</p> + +<p>The large sea in the interior of Africa, described +by Ali Bey to be without any communication +with the Ocean, had been described (<i>years +before Ali Bey's travels were published</i>) by Jackson, +in his Account of Marocco, &c. &c. third +edition, p. 309, and called first by him <i>Bahar +Sudan</i>, and represented as a sea having decked +vessels on it. Mr. Park, in his Second Journey, +calls this sea the Bahar Seafina, without, however, +informing the public, or knowing, that the +Bahar Sefeena is an Arabic expression implying +a sea of ships, or a sea where ships are found; +and the situation he places it in coincides exactly +with Jackson's prior description. There +are thus three concurrent testimonies of the situation +of the Bahar Sudan, or Sea of Sudan, +<i>first noticed by Jackson</i>, and since confirmed by +Ali Bey and Park.<a id="footnotetag274" name="footnotetag274"></a> +<a href="#footnote274"><sup class="sml">274</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote274" +name="footnote274"></a><b>Footnote 274:</b><a href="#footnotetag274"> +(return) </a> There is an able discussion of this subject in the New +Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, article "Africa," +p. 104, and 105.</blockquote> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc"> +El Hage Hamed El Wangary</span>. +</p><br><br> + +<p class="mid"> +<i>On the Negroes</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid"> (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.)</p> + +<p><span class="rig">Eton, 5th Dec. 1818. +</span></p><br> + +<p><span class="sc">Sir</span>,</p> + +<p>Many maintain that the Negroes are a docile +and tractable race, and more easily to be governed +than Europeans; others maintain, that +<a name="p466" id="p466"></a><span class="pagenum">[466]</span> +they are liars, thieves, vindictive, and a demoralised +race. That they are vindictive, no one +who is acquainted with their character will deny; +but are not most barbarous and uncivilised nations +the same? What are the Muhamedans +and Pagans? The latter, who form nearly two-thirds +of the population of the earth, are generally +of the same character, and the vindictive +character of the former is notorious.</p> + +<p>Propagate among the Negroes the benign principles +of the Christian doctrine, and they will +gradually (as those principles are inculcated) +become good subjects, and useful members of +society. It is that religion which will bring +forth their latent and social virtues--a religion, +the moral principles of which are the admiration +even of its enemies, the Muhamedans themselves: +a religion which exalts the human character +above the brutes, and brings forth its +beauties as the brilliancy of the diamond is +brought forth by the hand of the polisher.</p> + +<p>Destroy their witchcraft and idolatry, and on +their ruins inculcate the divine doctrines of Christ, +and we shall soon see that they will possess sentiments +that exalt the human character, and that +nothing has contributed more to their mental +degradation than the cruel treatment of their +masters in the European colonies of the West.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">Vasco De Gama</span>.</p><br><br> + +<p><a name="p467" id="p467"></a><span class="pagenum">[467]</span></p> + +<p><i>Cursory Observations on Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's +Journal of a Route across India, through Egypt, to +England</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig">Eton, 7th May, 1819.</p><br><br> + +<p>It is remarkable, that in proportion as our +mass of information respecting the interior of +Africa increases, the truth of Mr. James Grey +Jackson's account of that country, in the appendix +to his account of Marocco, &c. receives +additional confirmation. Some literary sceptics +have been so far prejudiced against this author's +report as to doubt its veracity altogether; but +let us see how far the interesting report of +Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence, in his journal of a +route across India, through Egypt, to England, +lately published, corroborates Mr. Jackson's +description of Timbuctoo, published so long +since as 1809.</p> + +<p>It is to be lamented, that Jackson's African +orthography is not altogether adopted: with +the superior and practical knowledge which he +evidently possesses of the African Arabic language, +it cannot, I presume, be doubted by +the learned and impartial, that his orthography +is correct; and, judging from what has already +transpired, I do not hesitate to predict, that his +African orthography, from an evidence of its +accuracy, will, in a few years, be adopted +throughout; although the learned world have +been ten years in correcting <i>Tombuctoo</i> into +<i>Timbuctoo</i>; the latter being Mr. Jackson's orthography +<a name="p468" id="p468"></a><span class="pagenum">[468]</span> +in his account of Marocco, Timbuctoo, +&c. published in 1809.</p> + +<p>The late account of Mr. Bowdich's mission to +Ashantee has been the first to corroborate this +author in this respect; and Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence +has confirmed it with this additional +observation, in his Journal of a Route, &c. +page 493: "Upon enquiring about <i>Timbuctoo</i> +the Hage laughed at our pronunciation, the +name of the city being <i>Timbuctoo</i>." The next +improvement in African geographical orthography, +will probably be the conversion of Fez +into <i>Fas</i> (for there is absolutely no more reason +for calling it Fez than there has been for calling +Timbuctoo, Timbuctoo), this word being +spelled in Arabic with the letters <i>Fa, Alif</i>, and +<i>Sin</i>, which cannot be converted into any other +orthography but <i>Fas</i>; the same argument would +hold with various other words spelled correctly +by this author, an accurate elucidation of which +might encroach too much upon your valuable +pages. I shall therefore briefly state, that in +page 480 of Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal, the +name of the Moorish gentleman to whose care +the sons of the Emperor of Marocco, Muley +Soliman, were confided, is stated to be El +Hadge Talib ben Jelow: this is incorrect orthography, +there is no such name in the Arabic +language as <i>Jelow</i>, it is a barbarism; ben Jelow +signifies ben Jelule, and the proper name is <i>El +Hage Taleb ben Jelule</i>.</p> + +<p>Page 494. Behur Soldan is evidently another +<a name="p469" id="p469"></a><span class="pagenum">[469]</span> +barbarism or corruption of the Arabic words +<i>Bahar Sudan: vide</i> Jackson's Account of Marocco, +Timbuctoo, &c. page 309, published by +Cadell and Davies.</p> + +<p>It has been observed by an intelligent French +writer, that "<i>Le pluspart des hommes mesurant +leur foi par leur connoissance acquise croyent +fort peu de choses</i>." In confirmation of this +opinion, many intelligent men, at the time of +the publication of Jackson's Account of Marocco, +Timbuctoo, &c. doubted the existence +of the <i>Heirie</i>, as described by him; but in proportion +as our knowledge of Africa improves, +we see that the truth of these wonders is confirmed: +and Colonel Fitzclarence mentions one +that travelled four days in one; but we should +not be surprised to hear, before this century +shall terminate, that an Englishman had travelled +from Fas to Timbuctoo on a Heirie, +accompanied by an accredited agent of the Emperor +of Marocco, in ten or fifteen days!</p> + +<p>It appears by this ingenious traveller's Journal +of a Route, &c. page 493, that all religions are +tolerated at Timbuctoo. This is a confirmation +of what is reported by Jackson, in the Appendix +annexed to his Account of Marocco, &c. +page 300.</p> + +<p>The fish in the river of Timbuctoo, the Neel +El Abeed or Neel of Sudan, is described by +Colonel Fitzclarence as resembling salmon: this +is a corroboration of Jackson, who says, the +<a name="p470" id="p470"></a><span class="pagenum">[470]</span> +<i>shebbel</i> abound in the Neel of Sudan, and the +shebbel is the African salmon. See appendix +to Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. page 306.</p> + +<p>In page 494, Colonel Fitzclarence says, the +Nile at Kabra is a quarter of a mile wide; +Jackson says it is as wide as the Thames at +London. See Appendix to Jackson's Marocco, +&c. page 305.</p> + +<p>In page 496 of the Colonel's narrative, an +account is given of the rate of travelling through +the Desert; which, allowing for an arbitrary +difference, in the resting days, corroborates Jackson's +Account, page 286.</p> + +<p>In page 497, El hage Taleb ben Jelule's +report to the Colonel, of an account of two +white men, (undoubtedly Mungo Park and +another,) who were at Timbuctoo in 1806, is a +remarkable confirmation of the account brought +by Mr. Jackson from Mogodor in January, 1807, +and reported by him to the Marquis of Hastings, +to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles Morgan, +which is inserted in the Morning Post and other +papers, about the middle of August, 1814.</p> + +<p>I am, Sir, +<span class="rig">Your most obedient servant,<br> +VASCO DE GAMA</span>.</p><br><br> + +<p><a name="p471" id="p471"></a><span class="pagenum">[471]</span></p> + +<p><i>On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Turkey in +Europe, in Asia, and in Africa</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig">London, May 10, 1819.</p><br><br> + +<p>In this enlightened age, when our intercourse +is increasing with nations remote from our own, +and possessing different religions, languages, +laws, and customs; when the ambassadors of +the Muhamedan potentates of Europe, Asia, +and Africa, are resident in our metropolis, all +understanding <i>the Arabic language</i>; when, with +a knowledge of this language, a person may +travel and hold colloquial intercourse with the +inhabitants of Turkey, with the greater part of +Asia, and with Africa; and, lastly, when we +consider the valuable and immense stores of +Arabian literature, of the best periods which +still remain unexplored, is it not remarkable +under all the exciting circumstances above +enumerated, that in this powerful and opulent +country, there should not be found, with all +our boasted learning and eagerness of research, +three or four Englishmen capable of writing and +conversing intelligibly in that beautiful and +useful language? The extent of this disgraceful +ignorance would be scarcely credible, were +there not proofs beyond doubt, that our principal +seats of learning are as deficient in this +knowledge as the public in general<a id="footnotetag275" name="footnotetag275"></a> +<a href="#footnote275"><sup class="sml">275</sup></a>, and that +<a name="p472" id="p472"></a><span class="pagenum">[472]</span> +letters or public documents written in that language, +have been in vain sent to them for +translation. What I have long considered as +chiefly tending to diminish the desire of acquiring +this language, is an opinion dogmatically +asserted, and diligently propagated, that +the Arabic of the East and West are so different +from each other, as almost to form distinct +languages, and to be unintelligible to the inhabitants +of either of those regions respectively; +but, having always doubted the truth of this +assertion, I have endeavoured, from time to time, +<i>during the last ten years</i>, to ascertain whether +the Arabic language spoken in Asia be the same +with that which is spoken in Africa, (westward +to the shores of the Atlantic ocean,) but without +success, and even without the smallest satisfactory +elucidation, until the arrival in London +<a name="p473" id="p473"></a><span class="pagenum">[473]</span> +last winter, of the most <i>Reverend Doctor Giarve, +Bishop of Jerusalem</i>, who has given such +incontestible proofs of his proficiency in the +Arabic language, that his opinion on this important +point cannot but be decisive; accordingly, +on presenting to the reverend Doctor some +letters from the Emperor of Marocco to me, +desiring that he would oblige me with his +opinion, whether the Arabic in those letters was +the same with that spoken in Syria, the Rev. +Doctor replied in the following perspicuous +manner, which, I think, decides the question: +<i>"I can assure you, that the language and the +idiom of the Arabic in these letters from the Emperor +of Marocco to you, is precisely the same +with that which is spoken in the East."</i></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote275" +name="footnote275"></a><b>Footnote 275:</b><a href="#footnotetag275"> +(return) </a> See page 408. respecting a letter sent to our late +revered Sovereign, by the Emperor of Marocco. In consequence +of the inattention to that letter, the Emperor determined +never to write again to a Christian king in the +Arabic language; and, with regard to Great Britain, I believe +he has faithfully ever since kept his word! Some time before +this letter was written, I being then in Marocco, the Emperor's +minister asked me if the Emperor his master were to +write an Arabic letter to the <i>Sultan George Sultan El Ingleez</i>, +(these were his expressions,) whether there were persons +capable of translating it into English: I replied, that there +were men at the Universities capable of translating every +learned language in the known world; and accordingly the +letter above alluded to was written in Arabic, and addressed +to His Majesty. This letter was written by the Emperor +himself, which I am competent to declare, having letters +from him in my possession, and being acquainted with his +hand-writing and style.</blockquote> + +<p>It is, therefore, thus ascertained, that the +Arabic language spoken in the kingdom of +Tafilelt, of Fas, of Marocco, and in Suse or +South Barbary, is precisely the same language +with that which is now spoken in Syria, and +Palestine in Asia; countries distant from each +other nearly 3000 miles, and from information +since obtained, there appears to be no doubt +that the Arabic language spoken by the Arabs +in Arabia, by the Moors and Arabs in India +and Madagascar, by the Moorish nations on +the African shores of the Mediterranean, are +one and the same language with that spoken in +Marocco, subject only to certain provincial +peculiarities, which by no means form impediments +to the general understanding of the language, +<a name="p474" id="p474"></a><span class="pagenum">[474]</span> +no more, or not so much so, as the provincial +peculiarities of one county of England +differ from another!!</p> + +<p>Unwilling to encroach too much on your +valuable pages, I will leave, for the subject of +my next letter, the inconceivable misconstructions +and errors into which the ignorance of this +language has led European travellers in Africa, +of which I shall state some examples in a recent +publication respecting Africa.</p> + +<p class="rig">I am, Sir,<br> +Your most obedient Servant,<br> +<span class="sc">James G. Jackson.</span> +</p><br><br><br><br> + +<p> +<i>Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted +in an Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward +Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors that have been committed +by European Travellers on that Continent, from +their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the learned +and the general travelling Language of that interesting +part of the World</i>.</p> + +<p class="rig">June 17, 1819.</p><br><br> + +<p>The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibber, was +invariably described as dividing in two large +streams.--<i>Vide</i> "Bowdich's Account of a Mission +to Ashantee," p. 187.</p> + +<p>The Lake Dibber is called in the proceedings +of the African Association Dibbie, but the proper +appellation is <i>El Bahar Tibber, </i>or<i> El Bahar +Dehebbie</i>. The Bahar Tibber signifies the sea +of gold dust; the <i>Bahar Dehebbie</i> signifies the sea +<a name="p475" id="p475"></a><span class="pagenum">[475]</span> +or water abounding in gold. Jinnee, which is on +or near the shore of this lake, (I call it a lake +because it is fresh water,) abounds in gold, and is +renowned throughout Africa for the ingenuity of +its artificers in that metal, insomuch that they +acknowledge the superiority of Europeans in all +arts except that of gold work. There are some +specimens of Jinnee gold trinkets, very correctly +delineated in the recent interesting work of +"Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal of a +Route across India, through Egypt to England," +p. 496.</p> + +<p>Page 187, "Yahoodie, a place of great trade."</p> + +<p>This place is reported to be inhabited by one +of the lost tribes of Israel, possibly an emigration +from the tribe of Judah. Yahooda, in African +Arabic, signifies Judah. Yahoodee signifies Jew. +It is not impossible, that many of the lost tribes +of Israel may be found dispersed in the interior +regions of Africa, when we shall become +better acquainted with that Continent; it is certain, +that some of the nations that possessed the +country eastward of Palestine when the Israelites +were a favoured nation, have emigrated to Africa.</p> + +<p>An emigration of the Amorites<a id="footnotetag276" name="footnotetag276"></a> +<a href="#footnote276"><sup class="sml">276</sup></a> are now in +possession of the declivity of the Atlas Mountains, +westward of the sanctuary<a id="footnotetag277" name="footnotetag277"></a> +<a href="#footnote277"><sup class="sml">277</sup></a> of Muley Driss, +and in the neighbourhood of the ruins of Pharaoh; +they live in encampments, consisting of +<a name="p476" id="p476"></a><span class="pagenum">[476]</span> +two, three, or four tents each: they resemble the +Arabs of the Desert in their predatory excursions. +I speak from practical knowledge, having +twice travelled through their country, and visited +their encampments.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote276" +name="footnote276"></a><b>Footnote 276:</b><a href="#footnotetag276"> +(return) </a> They are called <i>Ite-amor</i>, Amorite.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote277" +name="footnote277"></a><b>Footnote 277:</b><a href="#footnotetag277"> +(return) </a> <i>Vide</i> Jackson's Account of Marocco, chap. viii. enlarged +edition.</blockquote> + +<p>Page 189. "Mr. Beaufoy's Moor says, that +below Ghinea is the sea into which the river of +Timbuctoo discharges itself."</p> + +<p>This might have been understood to signify +the Sea of Sudan, if the Moor had not said +below Ghinea, (by which is meant Genowa, or +as we call it Guinea,) which implies, that the +<i>Neel El Abeed</i> (Niger) discharges itself in the +sea that washes the coast of Guinea; this, therefore, +corroborates Seedi Hamed's, or rather +Richard's hypothesis.</p> + +<p>Page 190. "This branch of the Niger passing +Timbuctoo, is not crossed until the third day +going from Timbuctoo to Houssa."</p> + +<p>This quotation from "Dapper's Description +of Africa," is corroborated by L'Hage Abdsalam, +Shabeeni, whose narrative says, "Shabeeni, +after staying three years at Timbuctoo, +departed for Houssa, and crossing the small river +close to the walls, reached the Neel in three days, +travelling through a fine, populous, and cultivated +country."</p> + +<p>The confusion of rivers, made mere equivocal +by every new hypothesis, receives here additional +ambiguity. If there were (as Mr. Bowdich affirms) +three distinct rivers near Timbuctoo; viz. +the Joliba, the Gambarro, and the Niger, (<i>i.e</i>. +<a name="p477" id="p477"></a><span class="pagenum">[477]</span> +the <i>Neel El Abeed</i>) how comes it that they have +not been noticed by Leo Africanus, who resided +at Timbuctoo; by Edrissi, who is the most correct +of the Arabian geographers; or whence is +it, that these rivers have not been noticed by the +many Moorish travelling merchants who have +resided at Timbuctoo, and whom I have repeatedly +questioned respecting this matter<a id="footnotetag278" name="footnotetag278"></a> +<a href="#footnote278"><sup class="sml">278</sup></a>, or +whence is it that Alkaid L'Hassen Ramy, a renowned +chief of the Emperor of Marocco's army, +with whom I was well acquainted, and who was +a native of Houssa, knew of no such variously +inclined streams. This being premised, I am +certainly not disposed to relinquish the opinion +I brought with me from Africa in the year 1807, +viz. that the <i>Neel El Abeed</i> is the only mighty +river that runs through Africa from west to east; +but I admit that its adjuncts, as well as itself, +have different names; thus, in the manuscript +of Mr. Park's death, a copy of which is inserted +in "Mr. Bowdich's Account of Ashantee," it is +called Kude; many hundred miles eastward it +is called Kulla, from the country through which +it passes; but Kude and Kulla are different +<a name="p478" id="p478"></a><span class="pagenum">[478]</span> +names, and ought not to be confounded one with +the other; neither ought Quolla (<i>i. e.</i>, the Negro +pronunciation of Kulla) to be confounded with +Kude, the former being the Negro term for the +same river, in the same manner as Niger is the +Roman name for the <i>Neel Elabeed</i>, which is the +Arabic name for the same river. There is a +stream which proceeds from the Sahara, the +water of which is <i>brackish</i>; this stream hardly +can be called a river, except in the rainy season. +It passes in a south-westerly direction near Timbuctoo, +but does not join the <i>Neel Elabeed</i>. I +could mention several intelligent and credible +authorities, the report of respectable merchants, +who have resided, and, who have had +establishments at Timbuctoo, in confirmation +of this fact; but as the authorities which I +should adduce would be unknown, even by +name, to men of science in Europe, I would +refer the reader to the interesting narrative of +an intelligent Moorish merchant, who resided +three years at Timbuctoo, and who was known +to the committee of the African Association; +this travelling merchant's name is L'Hage +Abdsalam Shabeeny, and his narrative, a manuscript +of which (with critical and explanatory +notes by myself) I have in my possession, has +the following observation:<a id="footnotetag279" name="footnotetag279"></a> +<a href="#footnote279"><sup class="sml">279</sup></a>--"Close to the town +of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a small rivulet +in which the inhabitants wash their clothes, and +<a name="p479" id="p479"></a><span class="pagenum">[479]</span> +which is about two feet deep; it runs into the +great forest on the east, and does not communicate +with the Nile, but is lost in the sands west +of the town: its water is brackish; that of the +Nile is good and pleasant."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote278" +name="footnote278"></a><b>Footnote 278:</b><a href="#footnotetag278"> +(return) </a> The Arabs who conduct the <i>cafelahs</i> or caravans across +the Sahara, are often seen at Agadeer or Santa Cruz, and +sometimes even at Mogodor; and if there was a river penetrating +to the north through the Sahara, would it not have +been noticed by them? Is it possible that such a prominent +feature of African geography, as a river of sweet water +passing through a desert, could fail of being noticed by +these people, who are, in their passage through the Desert, +continually in search of water?</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote279" +name="footnote279"></a><b>Footnote 279:</b><a href="#footnotetag279"> +(return) </a> See page 8.</blockquote> + +<p>Page 199. Mr. Murray recently observes, +"Joliba seems readily convertible into Joli-ba, +the latter syllable being merely an adjunct, signifying +river; this I was also given to understand."</p> + +<p>This is an etymological error. The Joliba is +not a compound word, if it were it would be +Bahar Joli, not Bajoli, or Joliba; thus do learned +men, through a rage for criticism, and for want +of a due knowledge of African languages, render +confused, by fancied etymologies, that which is +sufficiently clear and perspicuous.</p> + +<p>Page 191. "The river of Darkulla mentioned +by Mr. Brown."</p> + +<p>This is evidently an error: there is probably +no such place or country as Darkulla. There is, +however, an alluvial country denominated <i>Bahar +Kulla</i>, (for which see the map of Africa in the +Supplement of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, +p. 88. lat. N. 8°, long. E. 20°). I apprehend this +Darkulla, when the nations of Europe shall be +better acquainted with Africa and its languages, +will be discovered to be a corruption of <i>Bahar +Kulla</i>, or an unintelligible and ungrammatical +term: <i>Dëaar Kulla</i> is grammatical, and implies a +country covered with houses! <i>Dar Kulla</i> is an +ungrammatical and an incorrect term, which being +<a name="p480" id="p480"></a><span class="pagenum">[480]</span> +literally translated into English, signifies <i>many +house</i>. This being premised, we may reasonably +suppose, that <i>Bahar Kulla</i> is the proper term +which, as I have always understood, forms the +junction of the Nile of the west with the Nile +of the east, and hence forming a continuity<a id="footnotetag280" name="footnotetag280"></a> +<a href="#footnote280"><sup class="sml">280</sup></a> of +waters from Timbuctoo to Cairo.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote280" +name="footnote280"></a><b>Footnote 280:</b><a href="#footnotetag280"> +(return) </a> See my letter in the Monthly Magazine for March, 1817, +page 128.</blockquote> + +<p>191. In this geographical dissertation the +word Niger is still used, which is a name altogether +unknown in Africa, and calculated to contuse +the geographical enquirer. As this word is +unintelligible to the natives of Africa, whether +they be Arabs, Moors, Berebbers, Shelluhs, or +Negroes, ought it not to be expunged from +the maps?</p> + +<p>P. 192. In the note in this page, "Jackson's +Report of the source of the <i>Neel el Abeed</i>, and +the Source of the Senegal," is confirmed by the +Jinnee Moor.--See Jackson's Appendix to his +Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, p. 311.</p> + +<p>"It is said, that thirty days from Timbuctoo +they eat their prisoners!" Does not this allude +to Banbugr<a id="footnotetag281" name="footnotetag281"></a> +<a href="#footnote281"><sup class="sml">281</sup></a>, and has not this word been corrupted +by Europeans into Bambarra. See Mr. +<a name="p481" id="p481"></a><span class="pagenum">[481]</span> +Bowdich's MS. No. 3, p. 486; Banbugr, who eat +the flesh of men. Jackson's translation.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote281" +name="footnote281"></a><b>Footnote 281:</b><a href="#footnotetag281"> +(return) </a> The Gr in Banbugr, is the Arabic letter, grain. Richardson, +in his Arabic Grammar, renders this letter gh; which +demonstrates, that his knowledge of the Arabic was only +scholastic, not practical. It has no resemblance or affinity +to gh, and would be unintelligible if so pronounced to an +Arab.</blockquote> + +<p>Page 193. The government of Jinnee appears +to be Moorish; because <i>Malai Smaera</i>, which +should be written <i>Mulai Smaera</i>, signifies in the +Arabic language, the <i>Prince Smaera</i>: the term +does not belong to Negroes, but exclusively to +Muhamedans. <i>Malai Bacharoo</i> is a Negro corruption +of the word; it should be <i>Mulai</i>, or +<i>Muley Bukaree</i>; i.e. the <i>Abeed Mulai Bukaree</i>, +or <i>Abeed Seedi Bukaree</i>. They are well known +among the Negroes of Sudan; the Negroes of +this race form the present body-guard of the +Emperor of Maroceo's troops, consisting of 5000 +horse. They are dexterous in the management +of the horse, are well-disciplined troops, and are +the only military in the Emperor's army that can +cope with the Berebbers of the Atlas.</p> + +<p>Note, p. 194. Dapper's description of Africa +is here quoted in confirmation of the decay of +Timbuctoo; and Jackson is accused of extravagance. +The latter I shall pass over, it being an +assertion unsupported by any substantial testimony; +but immediately afterwards is the following +passage.</p> + +<p>"The three last kings before Billa (<i>i.e. Billabahada</i>) +were Osamana, (<i>i.e.</i> Osaman; Osamana +being the feminine gender,) Dawoloo, and +Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woolo +reigning in 1800; and a Moor who had come +from Timbuctoo to Comassee ten years ago +(viz. about 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bowdich +<a name="p482" id="p482"></a><span class="pagenum">[482]</span> +visited Ashantee), did not know King Woolo +was dead, as he was reigning at the time he left +Timbuctoo."</p> + +<p>With regard to Dapper's assertion, it should +be remembered, that if Timbuctoo was decaying +in his time, that is about the period that Muley +Ismael ascended the throne of Marocco, viz. in +1672; it revived very soon after, that is before +the close of the 17th century. This powerful +and warlike prince had the address to establish +and to maintain a very strong garrison at Timbuctoo; +and accordingly, during his long reign +of fifty-five years, viz. from 1672 to 1727, Timbuctoo +carried on a constant, extensive, and lucrative +trade with Marocco, Tafilelt, and Fas, +in gold dust, gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, ivory, +and slaves, &c. <i>Akkabahs</i><a id="footnotetag282" name="footnotetag282"></a> +<a href="#footnote282"><sup class="sml">282</sup></a>, and <i>cafilahs</i>, or caravans, +were going continually from Timbuctoo to +Tafilelt, Marocco, Fas, and Terodant. Travelling +across the Desert was then as safe as it is +now in the plains of Marocco, or on the roads +in England; the only months during which the +caravans did not travel were July and August, +because the <i>Shûme</i>, or hot wind of the Desert, +prevails during these two months. It is reported, +that Muley Ismael was so rich in gold, that the +bolts of the gates of his palaces, and his kitchen +utensils, were of pure gold. Timbuctoo continued +to carry on a most lucrative trade with +<a name="p483" id="p483"></a><span class="pagenum">[483]</span> +Marocco, &c.; during the Feign of the Emperor +Muley Abd Allah, son and successor of Ismael, +and also during the reign of Seedy<a id="footnotetag283" name="footnotetag283"></a> +<a href="#footnote283"><sup class="sml">283</sup></a> Muhamed +ben Abd Allah, who died about the year 1795, +a sovereign universally regretted, and hence +aptly denominated the father of his people: since +the decease of Seedy<a id="footnotetag284" name="footnotetag284"></a> +<a href="#footnote284"><sup class="sml">284</sup></a> Muhamed ben Abd Allah, +the father of the reigning emperor, Muley Soliman, +the trade of Sudan has rapidly decreased, +because the policy of the present emperor is, to +discourage commerce, but to encourage the agriculture +and the manufactures of his own country, +so as to make them sufficient for itself, and +independent of foreign supplies!</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote282" +name="footnote282"></a><b>Footnote 282:</b><a href="#footnotetag282"> +(return) </a> An Akkabah is an accumulation of many <i>cafilahs</i> or +caravans.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote283" +name="footnote283"></a><b>Footnote 283:</b><a href="#footnotetag283"> +(return) </a> It should be observed, that an emperor having the name +of the Arabian prophet, is called Seedy; but having any +other name, he is called Muley; the former signifies master, +the latter, prince.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote284" +name="footnote284"></a><b>Footnote 284:</b><a href="#footnotetag284"> +(return) </a> If therefore the trade with Timbuctoo declined in Leo's +time, <i>i.e.</i> A.D. 1570, it unquestionably revived in Ismael's +reign, and also continued with but little diminution during +the reign of his son Abd Allah, and his grandson Muhamed.</blockquote> + +<p>Da Woolo is a reverential term, and is synonymous +with Woolo, signifying King Woolo.</p> + +<p>Park says, Mansong was king of Timbuctoo +<a name="p484" id="p484"></a><span class="pagenum">[484]</span> +in 1796, and in 1805, implying that he reigned +from 1796 to 1805. The Moor before mentioned, +who came from Timbuctoo to Comassie +in 1807, told Mr. Bowdich, that Woolo was then +reigning at Timbuctoo. Isaaco says, Woolo was +predecessor to Mansong; consequently, according +to this Jew, Woolo was king before the year +1796; therefore, if Mr. Park's testimony be correct, +Woolo must have been predecessor and successor +to Mansong; otherwise, Mr. Park was incorrect +in saying that Mansong was king of Timbuctoo +in 1796, and in 1805. Adams says, Woolo +was king of Timbuctoo in 1810, and was old and +grey-headed. Riley's narrative also confirms +his age and grey hairs. With regard to my testimony, +viz. that Woolo was king<a id="footnotetag285" name="footnotetag285"></a> +<a href="#footnote285"><sup class="sml">285</sup></a> of Timbuctoo +in 1800, I had it from two merchants of veracity, +who returned from Timbuctoo in 1800, after residing +there 14 years: they are both alive now, +and reside at Fas; their names I would mention, +were I not apprehensive that it might lead to a +reprimand from the emperor, and create jealousy +for having communicated intelligence respecting +the interior of the country. I should not have +entered into this detail <i>in confirmation of my +assertion that Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in</i> +1800, if the editor of the Supplement to the Encyclopedia +Britannica (article Africa), had not +asserted, that I have committed an anachronism +in asserting, that he was king in that year; +thereby insinuating that Park was right, and that +I was wrong.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote285" +name="footnote285"></a><b>Footnote 285:</b><a href="#footnotetag285"> +(return) </a> See my Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the +Anti-Jacobin +Review for January, 1818, p. 453.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p485" id="p485"></a><span class="pagenum">[485]</span></p> + +<p>Page 195. The Editor of Adams's Narrative +is, I apprehend, incorrect in asserting, that the +name Fatima affords no proof that the queen, or +the wife of Woolo, was a Muhamedan. Fatima</p> + +<p>is incontestably an Arabian proper name; and it +would be considered presumption in a Negress +unconverted to Muselmism, to assume the name +of Fatima. She must, therefore, have been necessarily +a Mooress, or a converted Negress; the +name has nothing to do with a numeral, as Mr. +Bowdich suggests, and above all not with the +<i>numeral five</i>, for that is a number ominous of +evil in Africa, and as such, would never have +been bestowed as a name on a beloved wife.</p> + +<p>Page 196. Note of W. Hutchison, "The +four greatest monarchs known on the banks of +the Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisimiel, +and Malla, or Mallowa."</p> + +<p>Baharnoo should be written <i>Ber Noh</i>; i.e. the +country of Noah the patriarch; it is called +in the maps Bernoo, and the whole passage +is calculated greatly to confuse African geography. +The information is unquestionably +derived from Negro authority, and that not +of the most authentic kind. Santambool is +the Negro corruption of <i>Strambool</i>, which is the +Arabic name for Constantinople: <i>Malisimiel</i> +is the Negro corruption of Muley Ismael.<a id="footnotetag286" name="footnotetag286"></a> +<a href="#footnote286"><sup class="sml">286</sup></a> The +first signifies the empire of Constantinople; the +second signifies the empire of Muley Ismael, who +was emperor of Marocco in the early part of the +18th century, and whose authority was acknowledged +at Timbuctoo, where he maintained a +<a name="p486" id="p486"></a><span class="pagenum">[486]</span> +strong garrison, and held the adjacent country +in subjection, where his name is held in reverence +to this day. This being premised, it follows +of course, that one of these four great monarchies +here alluded to, viz. that of Santambool +is certainly not on the Quolla, unless the Quolla +be considered the same river with the Egyptian +Nile, and that Egypt be considered a part of the +empire of Santambool; then, and then only, can +it be said, that the empire of Santambool is situated +on the Quolla.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote286" +name="footnote286"></a><b>Footnote 286:</b><a href="#footnotetag286"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii. p. 295, and note, +p. 296.</blockquote> + +<p>Page 198. Two large lakes were described +close to the northward of Houssa; one called +Balahar Sudan, and the other Girrigi Maragasee; +the first of these names is a Negro corruption, +or an European corruption of the term <i>Bahar +Sudan</i><a id="footnotetag287" name="footnotetag287"></a> +<a href="#footnote287"><sup class="sml">287</sup></a>; the other is a Negro name of another, +if not of the same lake or sea. The situation of +the <i>Bahar Sudan</i> is described by me in the 13th +chapter, in my account of Marocco, to be +fifteen journeys east of Timbuctoo, and the +<i>Neel El Abeed</i> passes through it. I had this +information from no less than seven Moorish +merchants of intelligence and veracity; the same +is confirmed by Ali Bey<a id="footnotetag288" name="footnotetag288"></a> +<a href="#footnote288"><sup class="sml">288</sup></a>, the Shereef Imhammed, +Park, and Dr. Seitzen; all these authorities +must therefore fall to the ground if Mr. Bowdich's +report is to overturn these testimonies, +<a name="p487" id="p487"></a><span class="pagenum">[487]</span> +which has placed it three degrees of latitude +north of the <i>Neel El Abeed</i>, or <a id="footnotetag289" name="footnotetag289"></a> +<a href="#footnote289"><sup class="sml">289</sup></a><i>Neel Assudan</i>, +and in the Sahara<a id="footnotetag290" name="footnotetag290"></a> +<a href="#footnote290"><sup class="sml">290</sup></a>, <i>unconnected with any river</i>! +I doubt if any, but a very ignorant Pagan Negro +(for the Muhamedan Negroes are more intelligent), +would have given the Sea of Sudan this +novel situation.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote287" +name="footnote287"></a><b>Footnote 287:</b><a href="#footnotetag287"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote288" +name="footnote288"></a><b>Footnote 288:</b><a href="#footnotetag288"> +(return) </a> For an elucidation of these opinions, see my Letter on +the Interior of Africa, in the European Magazine, Feb. 1818, +page 113.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote289" +name="footnote289"></a><b>Footnote 289:</b><a href="#footnotetag289"> +(return) </a> Neel Sudan and Neel Assudan are synonymous, the <i>as</i> +being the article.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote290" +name="footnote290"></a><b>Footnote 290:</b><a href="#footnotetag290"> +(return) </a> See Mr. Bowdich's Map, in his Account of a Mission to +Ashantee.</blockquote> + +<p>Page 200. The Quolla appears to be the Negro +pronunciation of the Arabic name <i>Kulla</i>; i.e. +the <i>Bahar Kulla</i>, to which the <i>Neel Assudan</i> is +said to flow. <i>Bahar Kulla</i> is an Arabic word +signifying the sea altogether, or an alluvial country. +The <i>Neel Assudan</i> here joins the waters of +a river that proceed westward from the Abysinian +Nile, and hence is formed the water communication +between Cairo<a id="footnotetag291" name="footnotetag291"></a> +<a href="#footnote291"><sup class="sml">291</sup></a> and Timbuctoo.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote291" +name="footnote291"></a><b>Footnote 291:</b><a href="#footnotetag291"> +(return) </a> See Jackson's Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, +p. 313. See also his Letter to the Editor of the Monthly +Magazine for March, 1817. p. 125.</blockquote> + +<p>Page 201. Quolla Raba, or Kulla Raba, signifies +the Kulla forest, as the Negroes express it; +the Arabs call it <i>Raba Kulla</i>, i.e. the forest of +<i>Kulla</i>, If any further proof of the accuracy of +this interpretation be necessary, it maybe added, +that the position agrees exactly with Major Rennell's +kingdom of <i>Kulla</i>, for which see the Major's +map in proceedings of the African Association, +vol. i. page 209, lat. N. 9°, long. W. 10°. +<a name="p488" id="p488"></a><span class="pagenum">[488]</span></p> + +<p>Page 203. The lake Fittri is a lake, the waters +of which are said to be filtered through the earth, +as the name implies. The Nile is here said to run +under ground. The Arabs and Moors have a +tradition, that the waters of Noah's flood rested +here, and were absorbed and filtered through the +earth, leaving only this large lake. I never understood +this sea to be identified with the <i>Bahar +Heimed</i><a id="footnotetag292" name="footnotetag292"></a> +<a href="#footnote292"><sup class="sml">292</sup></a>; i.e. the Hot or Warm Sea. The +Hot Sea and the Filtered Sea are distinct waters; +the former lies about mid-way, in a right line +between Lake Fittri and Lake Dwi. (See Laurie +and Whittle's Map of Africa, published in 1813.) +This is another inaccuracy of Mr. Hutchison; +who appears, indeed, to have collected information +from natives, without considering what title +they had to credibility. Another error is added +to the note in page 203 and 204, viz. what he +calls sweet beans are unquestionably dates, which +have not the least affinity in taste, shape, growth, +or quality, to beans. The Arabic name correctly +converted into European letters, is <i>timmer</i>, +not <i>tummer</i>. The Arabic words designating +sweet beans, is <i>Elfool El Hellue</i>. The passage +signed William Hutchison here alluded to, is +this: "The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and <i>sweet +beans called tummer</i>."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote292" +name="footnote292"></a><b>Footnote 292:</b><a href="#footnotetag292"> +(return) </a> <i>Heimed</i> is an Arabic term, signifying that degree of heat +which milk has when coming from the cow or goat.</blockquote> + +<p>Note, page 204. I do not know whence the +Quarterly Review has derived its information +<a name="p489" id="p489"></a><span class="pagenum">[489]</span> +respecting the derivation of the word Misr (a +corruption of Massar); the word Massar is compounded +of the two Arabic words Ma and Sar; +i.e. Mother of Walls. Possibly some Arabic +professor versed in bibliographic lore, to favor a +darling hypothesis, has transmuted Massar into +Misr, to strengthen the plausibility of the etymology +of Misr from Misraem!!</p> + +<p>Note, page <i>205</i>. <i>Bahar bela ma</i> is an Arabic +expression, importing it to be a country once +covered with water, but now no longer so. In the +note in this page, I recognise the word Sooess to +designate the Isthmus of Suez. The Bahar Malee, +and the Sebaha Bahoori, are Negro corruptions of +the Arabic words <i>Bahar El Maleh</i>, and <i>Seba +Baharet</i>: the former does not apply particularly +to the Mediterranean, but <i>is a term applicable to +any sea or ocean that is salt</i> (as all seas and oceans +assuredly are); the latter term signifies literally, +the Seven Seas or Waters: neither is this a term +applicable to the Mediterranean, but to any +sea supplied by seven rivers, as the Red Sea: +these, therefore, are evidently other inaccuracies +of Mr. Hutchison. I apprehend Mr. Hutchison's +Arabic tutor at Ashantee was not an erudite +scholar. The term, and the only term in +Africa, applicable to the Mediterranean Sea, is +the <i>Bahar Segrer</i> (literally the Small Sea); and +<i>El Bahar El Kabeer</i> (is the Atlantic Ocean, or +literally the Great Sea); the latter is sometimes +figuratively called the <i>Bahar Addolum</i>, i.e. the +Unknown Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. +<a name="p490" id="p490"></a><span class="pagenum">[490]</span></p> + +<p>Note, p. 206. Is it possible that the author +doubts that Wangara is east of Timbuctoo? It +should seem that he did, as he quotes Mr. Hutchison +as authority for making it to contain +Kong, a mountainous district many journeys +south of the <i>Neel Assudan</i>. Mr. Park's testimony +is also called in support of this opinion, +but they are both erroneous. Wangara is as +well known in Africa to be east of Timbuqtoo, +as in England York is known to be North of +of London.</p> + +<p>Oongooroo is a barbarous Negro corruption of +Wangara; therefore, this note, if suffered to +pass through the press unnoticed, would be calculated +to confuse, not to elucidate, African +geography; neither can it be called, according +to Mr. Horneman's orthography, Ungura: the +name is <i>Wangara</i> which cannot be converted +accurately into any word <i>but</i> Wangara. Ungura +Oongooroo, &c. are corruptions of the proper +name, originating in an imperfect, and but an +oral knowledge of the African Arabic.</p> + +<p>Page 210. I apprehend the reason why Wassenah +was not known at Ashantee by the traders, +is because it was out of their trading track. I +have no doubt of the existence of Wassenah or +Massenah (for when the names of African towns +and countries are recorded, we should not be +particular about a letter or two, when we find +so many orthographical variations are made by +different authors); neither is there any reason +(that I know of) to doubt the description of +<a name="p491" id="p491"></a><span class="pagenum">[491]</span> +Wassenah given in Riley's Narrative; but it is +not extraordinary, that this place should be unknown +at Ashantee, if there were no commerce +or communication between these countries respectively; +it is certain, that the Africans neither +know, seek, or care, for places or countries +with which they have no trade or communication.</p> + +<p>It appears well deserving of observation (for +the purpose of rendering Arabic names intelligible +to future African travellers), that Mr. Bowdich +has demonstrated that, what is called in our +maps, 1. Bambarra, 2. Gimbala, 3. Sego, 4. Berghoo, +5. Begarmee, being written in the Arabic +language, with the guttural letter <i>grain</i>, would +be quite unintelligible, if pronounced to an African +<i>as they are written</i> by our letters, the nearest +approximation to the Arabic words would be +as follows, taking <i>Gr</i> for the nearest similitude +that our alphabet affords to the guttural letter +[Arabic غ ] <i>grain</i>.</p> + +<p>Correct Pronunciation. African Orthography. Called in the Maps.</p> + +<table cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0" + style="width: 100%; text-align: left;" summary="list"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%;"> +<br>1. Banbug'r<br> +<br><br>2. Grimbala<br> +<br>3. Shagr'u <br> +<br><br>4. Bergr'u<br> +<br>5. Bagrarmee<br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%; text-align: right;"> +<img alt="Banbug'r" src="images/491-Banbugr.png"><br> +<img alt="Grimbala" src="images/491-Grimbala.png"><br> +<img alt="Shagr'u" src="images/491-shagru.png"><br> +<img alt="Bergr'u" src="images/491-Bergru.png"><br> +<img alt="Bagrarmee" src="images/491-Bagrarmee.png"><br> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%;"> + </td> + <td style="vertical-align: top; width: 25%;"> +<br>Bambara.<br> +<br><br>Gimbala.<br> +<br>Sego.<br> +<br><br>Berghoo.<br> +<br>Begarmee.<br> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> + +<p><a name="p492" id="p492"></a><span class="pagenum">[492]</span></p> + +<p>The African traveller should be precise in his +attention to the sound of these words, otherwise +he will be quite unintelligible to the Africans, and +to the Muhamedans.</p> + +<p>Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, is certainly +incorrect, when he says, the letter غ <i>grain</i> +should be pronounced <i>gh</i>. No one acquainted +<i>practically</i> with the Arabic language, could possibly +be of this opinion; <i>gh</i> having no more resemblance +to the sound of the letter غ <i>grain</i>, than +<i>g</i> has to <i>h</i>: and every traveller going to Africa +with this erroneous opinion, will, undoubtedly, +be unintelligible to the Africans.</p> + +<p>Finally, the Arabic document, if it may be permitted +to call it Arabic, facing page 128 of this interesting +work of Mr. Bowdich, is a most miserable +composition of <i>Lingua franca</i>, or corrupt +Spanish, of unintelligible jargon, consisting of +many words quite unintelligible to the Africans, +whether Negroes or Moors, or others. The language +of this document, although it has some +Arabic words in it, is worse, if possible, than the +scrawl in which it is written; neither is it a correct +translation of the English which precedes it. +But purporting to be a letter issued from the +<i>accredited servants of the King of the English</i>, it +is certainly a disgrace to the country from whence +it issues, and a rare specimen of our knowledge +of the Arabic language.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">James Grey Jackson</span>.</p><br><br> +<p><a name="p493" id="p493"></a><span class="pagenum">[493]</span></p> + +<p class="mid"><i>Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa.</i></p> + +<p class="mid">TO THE EDITOR OF THE JOURNAL OF TRADE, &c.</p> + +<p class="rig">Eton, June 30, 1818.</p><br> +<p>Sir,</p> + + +<p>The last expedition from Sierra Leone, in addition +to many others sent out for the purpose +of <i>exploring the interior of Africa</i>, having failed, +and the enterprising and persevering Mr. Burckhardt, +having frustrated the well grounded +hopes of the African Association, by his having +paid the debt of nature, it is not improbable +that His Majesty's government <i>will now direct +their attention with energy to the only plan that +can possibly make that interesting and extraordinary +country a jewel in the British crown</i>.</p> + +<p>This important discovery, which would immortalise +the prince, who should cherish it to +its maturity, <i>can be effected only through the +medium of commerce</i>. But it should be attempted +not only with energy and decision, but +with <i>dispatch</i>, before the enterprising and commercial +spirit of a foreign power (seeing how +abortive our efforts have been), shall snatch +from us the glorious opportunity now offered of +<i>laying open the interior regions of Africa</i> to the +commercial enterprise of Great Britain.</p> + +<p class="rig">I am, Sir,<br> +Your most obedient servant,<br> +<span class="sc">Vasco de Gama.</span></p><br><br><br><br> + +<p><a name="p494" id="p494"></a><span class="pagenum">[494]</span></p> + +<p>The following curious Memoir was composed by Edmund +Hogan, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lately found +amongst the papers of one of his descendants.</p> + +<p class="mid">(A TRUE COPY.)</p> + +<p>"<i>The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the +Sworne Esquires of her Ma't's Person, from her Highnesse +to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Morocco, +and King of Fes and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. +Written by himselfe</i>.</p> + +<p>"I Edmund Hogan, being appointed Embassadour +from the Queens Ma'tie to the above-named +Emperour and King Muley Abdelmelech, +departed with my company and servants from +London the 22d April, 1577, being imbarked +in the good ship called the Gallion, of London, +and arrived in Azafi, a port of Barbary, the +21st of May next following. Immediately I +sent Leonell Egerton ashoare with my letters +directed to John Williams and John Bampton, +who dispatched a courier to Morocco to know +the Kings pleasure for my repaire to the court, +which letters came to theire hands on the +Thursday night. They with all speed gave the +King understanding of it, who being glad +thereof, speeded the next day certaine captaines, +with souldiera and tents, with other provision, +to Azafi; so that upon Whitsunday at night, +the said captaines, with John Bampton, Robert +<a name="p495" id="p495"></a><span class="pagenum">[495]</span> +Washborne, and Robert Lion, and the Kings +officers, came late to Azafi. In the meane time +I remained aboard, and caused some of the +goods to be discharged, for lightning of the +ship; and I wrote in my letter that I would not +lande 'till I knew the Kings pleasure. The +26th day, being Saturday, the Mark-speed +arrived in the roade about two of the clock in the +afternoone. The 27th day, being Whitsunday, +came aboard the Gallion, John Bampton, and +others, giving me to understand how much the +King rejoyced of my safe arrivall, coming from +the Queens Ma'tie; and how that for my safe +conduct to the court he had sent four captaines, +and an hundred souldiers well appointed, with +a horse furnished, which he used himself to ride +on, with all other furniture accordingly; they +wished me also to come on land in the best +order I could, as well for my self as my men, +which I did, having to the number of ten men, +whereof three were trumpeters. The ships +being four, appointed themselves in the best +order they could, for the best shew, and shott +off all theire ordinance to the value of twenty +marks in powder. At my coming, ashoare, I +found all the souldiers well appointed on horseback, +the captaines and the Govern'r of the +towne standing as neer the water side as they +could, with a jennet of the Kings, and rec'd +me from the boate, declaring how glad his Ma'tie +was of my safe arrivall, coming from the Queens +Ma'tie my Mistresse, and that he had sent them +<a name="p496" id="p496"></a><span class="pagenum">[496]</span> +to attend upon me, it being his pleasure that I +should tarrie there on shoare five or six dayes +for my refreshing; so being mounted upon the +jennet, they conducted me through the towne +into a faire fielde upon the sea side, where there +was a tent provided for me, and all the ground +spread with Turkie carpets, and the castle discharged +a peale of ordinance, and all things +necessarie were brought into my tent, where I +both tooke my table and lodging, and had other +convenient tents for my servants. The souldiers +inviron'd the tents, and watched about us day +and night as long as I lay there, altho' I sought +my speedier dispatch. On the Wednesday +towards night, I tooke my horse, and travelled +ten miles to the first place of water that wee +could finde, and there pitched our tents 'till the +next morning, and so traveled till ten of the +clock, and then pitched our tents 'till four, and +so traveled as long as day light would suffer, +about twenty-six miles that day. The next day +being Fryday, I traveled in like order but eight +and twenty miles at the most; and by a <a id="footnotetag293" name="footnotetag293"></a> +<a href="#footnote293"><sup class="sml">293</sup></a>river, +being about six miles within sight of the Citty +of Morocco, wee pitched bur tents. Imediately +after came all our English Merchants, and the +French, on horseback, to meete me; and before +night there came an Alcayde from the King +with fiftie men, and divers mules laden with +victuall and banket for my supper, declaring +<a name="p497" id="p497"></a><span class="pagenum">[497]</span> +unto me how glad the King shewed himselfe +to hear of the Queens Ma'tie, and that his +pleasure was I should be received into his +countrey as never any Christian the like; and +desired to know what time the next day I would +come into his Citie, because he would that all +the Christians, as also his Nobilitie, should +meete me; and willed John Bampton to be +with him early in the morning, which he did. +About seven of the clock, being accompanied +with the French and English Merchants, and a +great number of souldiers, I passed towards the +Citie, and by that time I had traveled two miles, +there met me all the Christians of the Spaniards +and Portugals to receive me, which I know was +more by the Kings commandment then of any +good wills of themselves; for some of them, +although they speake me faire, hung downe +theire heads like dogs, and especially the Portugals; +and I countenanced them accordingly. +So I passed on, 'till I came within two English +miles of the Citie; and then John Bampton returned, +shewing me that the King was so glad +of my coming, that he could not devise to doe +too much, to shew the good will that he did owe +to the Queens Ma'tie and her Realme; His +counsellors met me without the gates; and at +the entrie of the gates, his footmen and guard +were placed on both sides of my horse, and so +brought me to the King's palace. The King +sate in his chaire, with his Counsell about him, +as well the Moores as the Alkaids; and, according +<a name="p498" id="p498"></a><span class="pagenum">[498]</span> +to his order given unto me before, I +there declared my message in Spanish, and made +deliverie of the Queens Ma't's letters, and all +that I spake at that present in Spanish, he +caused one of his Alkaids to declare the same to +the Moores present in the Arabic tongue; +which done, he answered me againe in Spanish, +yeelding to the Queens Ma'tie great thankes, +and offering himselfe and his countrey to be at +her Graces comandment; and he comanded +certaine of his counsellors to conduct me to +my lodging, not being farr from the Court. The +house was faire, after the fashion of that countrey, +being dayly well furnished with all kinde of +victuall at the Kings charge. The same night +he sent for me to the court, and I had conference +with him about the space of two houres; +where I throughly declared the charge co'mitted +unto me from her Ma'tie, finding him conformable, +willing to pleasure, and not to urge her +Ma'tie with any demands, more then conveniently +she might willingly consent unto, hee +knowing that out of his countrey the Realme of +England might be better served with lackes, +then he in comparison from us. Further, he +gave me to understand, that the King of Spain +had sent unto him for a licence that an Embassadour +of his might come into his countrey, and +had made great meanes, that if the Queens +Ma'tie of England sent any unto him, that he +would not give him any credit or entertainment; +albeit (said he) I know what the King of Spaine, +<a name="p499" id="p499"></a><span class="pagenum">[499]</span> +and what the Queene of England and her +realme is; for I neither like of him, nor of his +religion, being so governed by the Inquisition, +that he can doe nothing of himselfe. Therefore, +when he cometh upon the licence which +I have granted, he shall well see how little +account I will make of him and Spaine, and how +greatly I will extoll you for the Queenes Ma'tie +of England; he shall not come to my presence +as you have done, and shall dayly, for I minde +to accept of you as my companion, and one of +my house, whereas he shall attend twentie +dayes after he hath done his message. After +the end of this speech, I delivered Sir Thomas +Gresham's letters; when as he tooke me by the +hand, and led me downe a long court to a +palace, where there ranne a faire fountaine of +water, and there sitting himselfe in a chaire, he +comanded me to sitt downe in another, and +there called for such simple musicians as he +had. Then I presented him with a greate base +lute, which he most thankfully accepted, and +then he was desirous to hear of the musicians; +and I tolde him, that there was great care had +to provide them, and that I did not doubt but +upon my returne they should come with the +first ship. He is willing to give them good +entertainment, with provision of victuall, and +to let them live according to theire law and conscience, +wherein he urgeth none to the contrary. +I finde him to be one that liveth greatly +in the fear of God, being well exercised in the +<a name="p500" id="p500"></a><span class="pagenum">[500]</span> +Scriptures, as well in the Old Testament, as +also in the New, and he beareth a greater +affection to our nation then to others, because +of our religion, which forbiddeth worship of +idols; and the Moores called him the Christian +King. The same night, being the first of June, +I continued with him till twelve of the clock, +and he seemed to have so good likeing of me, +that he tooke from his girdle a short dagger, +being sett with 200 stones rubies and Turkies, +and did bestowe it upon me; and so I, being +conducted, returned to my lodging for that time. +The next day, because he knew it to be Sunday, +and our Sabboth day, he did let me rest; but on +the Monday in the afternoone he sent for me, +and I had conference with him againe, and +musick. Likewise on the Tuesday, by three of +the clock, he sent for me into his garden, finding +him layed upon a silk bed, complaining of +a sore leg; yet, after long conference, he +walked into another orchard, whereas having a +fair banketing house, and a great water, and a +new gallie in it, he went aboard the gallie, and +tooke me with him, and passed the space of two +or three houres, shewing the great experience +he had in gallies, wherein (as he said) he had +exercised himselfe eighteene yeares in his youth. +After supper he shewed me his horses, and +other co'modities that he had about his house; +and since that night I have not seene him, for +that he hath kept in with his sore legg; but he +hath sent to me dayly. The 18th of June, at +<a name="p501" id="p501"></a><span class="pagenum">[501]</span> +six of the clock at night, I had againe audience +of the King, and I continued with him, till midnight, +having debated, as well for the Queenes +co'mission, as for the well-dealing with her +merchants for their traffick here in these parts, +saying, he would do much more for the Queenes +Ma'tie and the Realme; offering that all English +ships with her subjects may with good securitie +enter into his ports and dominions, as well in +trade of merchandize, as for victuall and water, +as also in time of warr with any of her enemies, +to bring in prizes, and to make sales as occasion +should serve, or else to depart againe with +them at theire pleasure. Likewise for all English +ships that shall passe along his Coast of Barbary, +and threw the Streights into the Levant seas, +and so to the Turks dominions, and the King +of Algiers, as his owne; and that he would +write to the Turke, and to the King of Algiers, +his letters for the well using of our ships and +goods. Also, that hereafter no Englishman that +by any meanes may be taken captives, shall be +sold within any of his dominions; whereupon I +declared that the Queenes Ma'tie, accepting of +these his offers, was pleased to confirme the +intercourse and trade of our Merchants within +this his countrey, as also to pleasure him with +such commodities as he should have need of, to +furnish the necessities and wants of his country +in trade of merchandize, so as he required +nothing contrary to her honour and law, and +the breach of league with the Christian Princes +<a name="p502" id="p502"></a><span class="pagenum">[502]</span> +her neighbours. The same night I presented +the King with the case of combes, and desired +his Ma'tie to have speciall regard that the ships +might be Iaden back againe, for that I found +little store of salt-peter in readinesse in John +Bampton's hands; he answered me, that I +should have all the assistance therein that he +could, but that in<a id="footnotetag294" name="footnotetag294"></a> +<a href="#footnote294"><sup class="sml">294</sup></a> Sus he thought to have some +store in his house there, as also that the Mountainers +had made much in a readinesse; I requested +that he would sende downe, which he +promised to doe. The eighteenth day I was +with him againe, and so continued there till +night; and he shewed me his house, with pastime +in ducking with water spaniels, and baiting +bulls with his English doggs. At this time I +moved him againe for the sending downe to +Sus, which he granted to doe; and the 24th +day there departed Alcayde Mammie, with +Lionell Egerton, and Rowland Guy, to Sus; +and carried with them, for our accounts and his +company, the Kings letters to his brother Muly +Hammet, and Alcayde Shavan, and the Viceroy. +The 23d day the King sent me out of Morocco +to his garden called Shersbonare, with his guard +and Alcayde Mamoute; and the 24th at night +I came to the Court to see a Morris-dance, and +a play of his Alkaids; he promised me audience +the next day, being Tuesday, but he putt it off +<a name="p503" id="p503"></a><span class="pagenum">[503]</span> +'till Thursday; and the Thursday at night I +was sent for to the King after supper, and then +he sent Alcayde Rodwan and Alcayde Gowry to +conferr with me; but, after a little talk, I desired +to be brought to the King for my dispatch. +And being brought to him,. I preferred two +bills of John Bampton's, which he had made +for provision of salt-peter, also two bills for the +quiet traffique of our English Merchants, and +bills for sugars to be made by the Jewes, as well +for the debts past, as hereafter, and for good +order in the Ingenios. Also I moved him againe +for the salt-peter, and other dispatches, which +he referred to be agreed upon by the two +Alcaydes. But the Fryday, being the 20th, the +Alcaydes could not intend it, and upon Saturday +Alcayde Rodwan fell sick; so on Sunday wee +made meanes to the King, and that afternoone +I was sent for to conferre upon the bargaine +with the Alcaydes and others; but did not agree. +Upon Tuesday I wrote a letter to the King for +my dispatch; and the same afternoone I was +called againe to the Court, and referred all +things to the King, accepting his offer of salt-peter. +That night againe the King had me into +his gallie, and the spaniels did hunt the duck. +The Thursday I was appointed to weigh the +300 quintals grosse of salt-peter,, and that afternoone +the Tabybe came unto me to my lodging, +shewing me that the King was offended with +John Bampton for divers causes. The Sunday +night late, being the 7th July, I got the King +<a name="p504" id="p504"></a><span class="pagenum">[504]</span> +to forgive all to John Bampton, and the King +promised me to speake againe with me upon +Monday. Upon Tuesday I wrote to him againe +for my dispatch, and then he sent Fray Lewes +to me, and said, that he had order to write. +Upon Wednesday I wrote againe; and he sent +me word that I should come and be dispatched, +so that I should depart upon Fryday without +faile, being the 12th July. So the Fryday +after, according to the Kings order and appointment, +I went to the Court; and whereas motion +and petition was made for the confirmac'on of +the demands which I had preferred, they were +all granted, and likewise which were on the +behalfe of our English Merchants requested, +were with great favour and readinesse +yeilded unto. And whereas the Jewes there +resident, were to our men in certaine round +sum'es indebted, the Emperor's pleasure and +co'mandment was, that they should without +further excuse or delay pay and discharge the +same. And thus at length I was dismissed +with great honour and speciall countenance, +such as hath not ordinarily bene shewed to other +Embassadors of the Christians. And touching +the private affairs intreated upon betwixt her +Ma'tie and the Emperour, I had letters from him +to satisfie her Highnesse therein. So to conclude, +having received the like honourable conduct +from his Court, as I had for my part at +my first landing, I imbarked myself with my +foresaid company; and arriving not long after +<a name="p505" id="p505"></a><span class="pagenum">[505]</span> +in England, I repaired to her Ma'ties Court, +and ended my embassage to her Highnesses +good liking, with relation of my service performed."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote293" +name="footnote293"></a><b>Footnote 293:</b><a href="#footnotetag293"> +(return) </a> The Tensift.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote294" +name="footnote294"></a><b>Footnote 294:</b><a href="#footnotetag294"> +(return) </a> Great quantities of superior saltpetre are produced at +Terodant in Suse.</blockquote><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L. +and E.</i></p> + +<p>Sir, +<span class="rig">London, 17th January, 1818.</span></p><br><br> + +<p>Having read, with considerable satisfaction, +your very able and judicious dissertation respecting +Africa, in the new Supplement to the Encyclopedia +Britannica, I will take the liberty to +offer some animadversions that have occurred +to me in the perusal of that very interesting +article.</p> + +<p><i>Bahr Kûlla</i> I conceive to be an immerged +country, of considerable extent, similar to Wangara; +for the name, which is Arabic, implies as +much. The correct orthography, translated literally +into English is <i>Bahr Kûlha</i>, which signifies +the sea, wholly or altogether, implying, therefore, +an alluvial country.</p> + +<p>Respecting goat-skins dyed red or yellow, +these are not brought by caravans from central +Africa to Marocco, but are manufactured at +Marocco, Fas, Mequinas, and Terodant the metropolis +of Suse, from which manufactories they +are conveyed to the interior regions for sale. +Goat-skins, with the hair, in the raw state only, +are exported from Mogodor to England. +<a name="p506" id="p506"></a><span class="pagenum">[506]</span></p> + +<p>When Moore asserted that there was no such +river as the Niger, he evidently meant that the +<i>natives of Africa</i> knew it not by that name; +which is undoubtedly correct; for the word being +an European word, it would not be known in +Africa: but its translation into Arabic is <i>Bahar +El Abeed</i>, i. e. the river of Negroes. Edrissi +called it Niger, from the same motive, viz. because +it was so named by <i>Europeans</i>, and by +them only.</p> + +<p>I conceive that the hypothesis which has been +credited by some, viz. that there is no receptacle +for the two Niles, between Cashna and Timbuctoo, +must now necessarily fall to the ground; +since the sea of Sudan, first declared by me to +be between Cashna and Timbuctoo, and since +confirmed by Ali Bey, and by Park, in his second +journey, can (as I apprehend) no longer +be doubted: and it is not improbable that this is +the common receptacle of the Nile of the West +and the Nile of the East. This hypothesis is +strengthened by the testimony of the Shereef +Imhammed, who has said, that he himself saw +the Nile, at Cashna, flowing so rapidly westward, +that vessels could not stem the current. +If this be true, the <a id="footnotetag295" name="footnotetag295"></a> +<a href="#footnote295"><sup class="sml">295</sup></a><i>Ba Sea Feena</i> of Park, +which is only another name for the <i>Sea of Sudan</i>, +must lie west of Cashna, and, probably, +about the same point that it is stated by me to +<a name="p507" id="p507"></a><span class="pagenum">[507]</span> +be situated, viz. fifteen journeys of horse-travelling, +or from 400 to 450 British miles east of +Timbuctoo.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote295" +name="footnote295"></a><b>Footnote 295:</b><a href="#footnotetag295"> +(return) </a> The Arabic orthography is <i>Bahar S'feena</i> which being +literally translated into English, signifies the Sea of Ships.</blockquote> + +<p>The word <i>Djinawa</i> is the African word that +denominates Guinea, but I cannot imagine that +it was ever intended to signify Gana. (See Supplement +to Encyclopædia Britannica, p. 104.)</p> + +<p>You say there are, in Africa, two rivers to +which the name of <i>Niger</i> has been given: this +is evidently an error, but possibly of the press +only. There are, however, two rivers in Africa +to which the name of <i>Neel</i> has been given.</p> + +<p>The Proceedings of the African Association, +vol. i. p. 540, declare that the Nile is a name +applied in Africa to any great river; but as this +assertion is calculated to produce confusion in +the geographical elucidation of the interior of +that continent, and as it certainly is not the fact, +I must here beg leave to contradict it, and declare +that there are absolutely but two rivers in +Africa, that bear the name Neel or Nile, viz. the +Neel El Kabeer, Neele Sudan, or Neel El +Abeed, i.e. the great Nile, the Nile of Sudan +or the Nile of the Negroes; and Neele Masser, +i.e. the Nile of Egypt.<a id="footnotetag296" name="footnotetag296"></a> +<a href="#footnote296"><sup class="sml">296</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote296" +name="footnote296"></a><b>Footnote 296:</b><a href="#footnotetag296"> +(return) </a> <i>Nile</i> is a French term, and loses its proper pronunciation +and is unintelligible when pronounced by an Englishman to +an African; but if written <i>Neel</i>, and pronounced by an Englishman, +it is intelligible.</blockquote> + +<p>If my knowledge of the African Arabic +can be of any service in giving you the +signification or correct orthography of African +<a name="p508" id="p508"></a><span class="pagenum">[508]</span> +words, in the event of your favouring the public +with a future edition of your New Supplement +to the Encyclopædia Britannica, any information +that I can communicate to you will +be very much at your service; and you may in +this and in any other respect that regards Africa +freely command my services.</p> + +<p> +<i>Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and +Travels in Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D., by +Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E.</i></p> + +<p class="mid">TO HUGH MURRAY ESQ. F.R.S.E.</p> + +<p><span class="rig">London, Feb. 1818.</span></p><br> + +<p><span class="sc">Sir</span>,</p> + +<p>You have certainly rendered to your country +a service, in the publication of "The Travels +and Discoveries in Africa, of the late John +Leyden," the perusal of which has been to me +a fund of instruction and entertainment; it is a +most valuable work, and such a one as was +wanted by the literary world, inasmuch as +the judicious collection of the matter forms a +most valuable epitome of African knowledge, +collecting what was before distributed into many +folios.</p> + +<p>I anticipate that the information in this work, +communicated to the public, will soon be circulated, +and you will be called upon to supply +a second edition. In the mean time, I take the +liberty of submitting to your perusal a few cursory +observations which I have made during the +perusal of it, on the accuracy of which you may +<a name="p509" id="p509"></a><span class="pagenum">[509]</span> +assuredly rely. These apply for the most part +to Arabian words, which have been by the moderns, +as well as the ancients variously corrupted +and mutilated. Desirous (for the information +of those who really seek after African knowledge) +that this book will pass through many +editions. I am, &c.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">James Grey Jackson.</span></p><br><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>Cursory Observations</i>.</p> + +<p>"The <i>Ludaia</i>, are not inhabitants of <i>Ludama</i>, +they are a very numerous and warlike tribe of +Arabs, inhabiting the Sahara, of which there are +two or three emigrations or encampments in different +and distant parts of Sahara; the Emperor +of Marocco has some thousands of them in his +army, and they are esteemed (next to the negroes, +called Abeed Seedy Bukaree) his best +troops. See the Map of the tracts from Fas +and Arguin to Timbuctoo, facing page 1. +Lat. N. 24°. long. W. 3°.</p> + +<p>"This serpent is the <i>Bûska</i>, described in Jackson's +enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109. +Providence has afforded to man an opportunity +of evading the attack of this deadly animal; for +when it coils itself up, and by the strength of +its tail darts forward fifteen or twenty yards at +once, the person attacked, by watching vigilantly +its motions, evades the attack, by moving +only a short distance from the right line, in which +it is prepared to dart forwards; neither can the +<a name="p510" id="p510"></a><span class="pagenum">[510]</span> +<i>Bûska</i> govern itself in the extent of its movement, +but necessarily goes as far as its strength +will permit, and then coils itself up again in a +circular form, again erects its head, and darts a +second time to its object. I have conversed with +Arabs, who have been attacked by this monster, +and they have assured me, that, by vigilantly +watching its motion, and the direction of its +head, when preparing to dart forward, they may +escape its attack.<a id="footnotetag297" name="footnotetag297"></a> +<a href="#footnote297"><sup class="sml">297</sup></a></p> + +<p>"It is not correct to assert that <i>Nasari is a general +term</i>, applied to infidels in Muhamed; it +is applied to Christians only. <i>Kaffer is the general +term</i> applied to all who have not faith in +the Arabian Prophet.<a id="footnotetag298" name="footnotetag298"></a> +<a href="#footnote298"><sup class="sml">298</sup></a></p> + +<p>"That which you call the Talk Tree, is the +tree which produces the Barbary gum; the name +is <i>talh</i>.<a id="footnotetag299" name="footnotetag299"></a> +<a href="#footnote299"><sup class="sml">299</sup></a>"</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote297" +name="footnote297"></a><b>Footnote 297:</b><a href="#footnotetag297"> +(return) </a> Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 306.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote298" +name="footnote298"></a><b>Footnote 298:</b><a href="#footnotetag298"> +(return) </a> Ibid, p. 429.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote299" +name="footnote299"></a><b>Footnote 299:</b><a href="#footnotetag299"> +(return) </a> Ibid. 204.</blockquote> + +<p>"The <i>Keydenah</i>.--This is the Sudanic name +for the tree which produces the Argan nut, or +olive, the <i>kernel</i> of which resembles a bitter +almond, and from <i>it</i>, not from the shell, they +extract the oil, so celebrated for frying fish, and +for burning; a pint of which will afford light as +long as two pints of olive oil.</p> + +<p>"The She plant, or properly Sheh is not wild +thyme, nor does it resemble it, it is the wormseed +plant, the seed of which is an article of +exportation, from the ports of Marocco, The +<a name="p511" id="p511"></a><span class="pagenum">[511]</span> +sheh resembles the absynthum. The wild thyme +is called <i>zatar</i>, also an article of exportation +from the ports of the Marocco empire.<a id="footnotetag300" name="footnotetag300"></a> +<a href="#footnote300"><sup class="sml">300</sup></a></p> + +<p>"The <i>Alsharra</i> signifies the Book of Laws of +Muhamed.<a id="footnotetag301" name="footnotetag301"></a> +<a href="#footnote301"><sup class="sml">301</sup></a></p> + +<p>"<i>Gebel Ramlie</i> should be written <i>Jibbel Rummelie</i>, +i.e. the Sandy Mountain.<a id="footnotetag302" name="footnotetag302"></a> +<a href="#footnote302"><sup class="sml">302</sup></a></p> + +<p>"The Elwah <a id="footnotetag303" name="footnotetag303"></a> +<a href="#footnote303"><sup class="sml">303</sup></a>Elgarbie is inhabited by the +Maggrebee Arabs. My late friend, Muley Abd +Salam, elder brother to Muley Soliman, the reigning +Emperor of Marocco, had a very large estate +in this Wah, called Santariah. In the 1793d year +of the Christian era, he sent his friend and servant +Alkaid Muhammed ben Abd Saddack, late governor +of Mogodor, to effect the sale of this +estate. He was absent on this embassy two years +and three months.<a id="footnotetag304" name="footnotetag304"></a> +<a href="#footnote304"><sup class="sml">304</sup></a></p> + +<p>"<i>Sheb</i> is the Arabic for alum, the correct orthography +is <i>Shib</i>.<a id="footnotetag305" name="footnotetag305"></a> +<a href="#footnote305"><sup class="sml">305</sup></a></p> + +<p>"<i>Marybucks</i> should be <i>Marabet</i>, i.e. Priests, +or Holy Muhamedans.<a id="footnotetag306" name="footnotetag306"></a> +<a href="#footnote306"><sup class="sml">306</sup></a></p> + +<p>"The primitive plough is used in all the African +countries inhabited by the Arabs, or their +descendants; the negroes, however, use the +hoe."<a id="footnotetag307" name="footnotetag307"></a> +<a href="#footnote307"><sup class="sml">307</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote300" +name="footnote300"></a><b>Footnote 300:</b><a href="#footnotetag300"> +(return) </a> Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 312.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote301" +name="footnote301"></a><b>Footnote 301:</b><a href="#footnotetag301"> +(return) </a> Ibid, p. 334.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote302" +name="footnote302"></a><b>Footnote 302:</b><a href="#footnotetag302"> +(return) </a> Ibid, p. 398.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote303" +name="footnote303"></a><b>Footnote 303:</b><a href="#footnotetag303"> +(return) </a> Let the African traveller be careful to pronounce these +g's guttural خ</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote304" +name="footnote304"></a><b>Footnote 304:</b><a href="#footnotetag304"> +(return) </a> Ibid, p. 399.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote305" +name="footnote305"></a><b>Footnote 305:</b><a href="#footnotetag305"> +(return) </a> Ibid. ibid.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote306" +name="footnote306"></a><b>Footnote 306:</b><a href="#footnotetag306"> +(return) </a> Ibid. p. 225.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote307" +name="footnote307"></a><b>Footnote 307:</b><a href="#footnotetag307"> +(return) </a> Ibid. p. 227.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p512" id="p512"></a><span class="pagenum">[512]</span></p> + +<p>"The Mouselmines is a French corruption of +the term Muselman, i.e. Mohamedans.</p> + +<p>"Mongearts, i.e. Moguert, the g guttural.</p> + +<p>"Ouadelim, i.e. Wooled Deleim, or the sons +of Deemy.</p> + +<p>"Labdessebah, i.e. Woled Abbusebah, 'the +sons of Abbusebah.'<a id="footnotetag308" name="footnotetag308"></a> +<a href="#footnote308"><sup class="sml">308</sup></a></p> + +<p>"Wed de Non, i.e. Wedinoon.</p> + +<p>"The herb, with a decoction of which they dye +their nails and hands, is called by the Arabs <i>El +Henna</i>: it imparts a coolness and softness to the +hands, and diminishes the excessive perspiration +incident to warm climates.<a id="footnotetag309" name="footnotetag309"></a> +<a href="#footnote309"><sup class="sml">309</sup></a></p> + +<p>"Hooled ben Soliman ought to be Woled ben +Soliman, 'the sons of the sons of Soliman;' and +Benioled, should be Ben El Waled, 'the sons of +Elwaled.'<a id="footnotetag310" name="footnotetag310"></a> +<a href="#footnote310"><sup class="sml">310</sup></a></p> + +<p>"The small beautiful species of deer, is the <i>El +Horreh:</i> it is an inhabitant of the confines of the +Saharah; it is said never to lie down. It produces +the anti-poison called bezoar stone, (called +in the Arabic <i>Bide El Horrek</i>, i.e. the testicle +of the Horreh.) This is an article of commerce at +Santa Cruz, and Wedinoon. The back and sides +of the skins of these animals are of a red brown, +and of a vivid white underneath."<a id="footnotetag311" name="footnotetag311"></a> +<a href="#footnote311"><sup class="sml">311</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote308" +name="footnote308"></a><b>Footnote 308:</b><a href="#footnotetag308"> +(return) </a> Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 262.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote309" +name="footnote309"></a><b>Footnote 309:</b><a href="#footnotetag309"> +(return) </a> Ibid. p. 291.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote310" +name="footnote310"></a><b>Footnote 310:</b><a href="#footnotetag310"> +(return) </a> Ibid. p. 299.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote311" +name="footnote311"></a><b>Footnote 311:</b><a href="#footnotetag311"> +(return) </a> Ibid. p. 303.</blockquote> +<p><a name="p513" id="p513"></a><span class="pagenum">[513]</span></p> + +<p class="mid">TO JAMES GREY JACKSON, ESQ.</p> + +<p class="rig">Edinburgh, May 3. 1818.</p><br><br> +<p class="sc">Sir,</p> + +<p>I have lately been favoured with two communications +from you:--the one a letter to Mr. +Napier, editor of the Encyclopædia Britannica, +on the subject of the article <i>Africa</i>, of which I +was the author, and which Mr. Napier, therefore, +put into my hands; the other, a letter +direct to myself, on the subject of my edition +of "Leyden's Discoveries in Africa." I fully +intended to have answered them before now, +but the pressure of other business, with the +wish to bestow upon them the leisurely consideration +which they merited, has hitherto prevented +me. I feel much gratified by the favourable +opinion which you express of what I have done +on this subject, and much obliged to you for +your communications, and offers of further information. +I experienced very much the disadvantage +arising from a want of knowledge of +the languages of North Africa, with which you +appear to have a <i>very extensive acquaintance. +Indeed, several of the etymologies which you +have given, are very interesting</i>. I was particularly +pleased to receive that of the term <i>Ba +Sea Feena</i>, though I cannot conceal that it tends +to strengthen the doubts which I have entertained +of its applying to the sea on the Gold +Coast. The distance, the direction southwards, +the Christians, the motion one way and another, +and even the ships, are all circumstances which +<a name="p514" id="p514"></a><span class="pagenum">[514]</span> +would agree. There are arguments, however, +against it; and it is certain that Park did not so +understand it. Do you think there is any chance +that the Bahr Soudan could be the Gulf of +Guinea?</p> + +<p>If you are acquainted with any circumstances +which could tend to confirm or refute the narrative +of Sidi Hamet, as given by Riley, or throw +light upon Riley's general credibility; or if you +have ever heard any report of such a city as <i>Wassanah</i>, +I should feel particularly obliged to you +for communicating such information: and whenever +I find myself at a loss, I shall gladly avail +myself of the liberality with which you show +yourself disposed to impart the knowledge of +which you have become possessed.</p> + +<p>I shall communicate this letter to Mr. Napier; +and it is but fair to mention, that, from the circumstances +already stated, I am solely responsible +for the too long delay which has taken +place in answering your letter to him, as well +as that to myself.</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">Hugh Murray.</span></p><br><br> + +<p class="mid"><i>On the Niger and the Nile.</i></p> + +<p class="rig">London, 7th April, 1820.</p><br><br> + +<p>In the 25th number of the Quarterly Review, +(article Park's Travels,) the hypothesis there +laid down as almost indisputable, is the non-continuity +of the two Niles of Africa, or (according +<a name="p515" id="p515"></a><span class="pagenum">[515]</span> +to the European phraseology of the day) +of the Niger and the Nile.</p> + +<p>This hypothesis founded on the opinion of +Major Rennel, carries with it no evidence +whatever, but the speculative theory of that +learned geographer. The identity or connection +of the two Niles, and the consequent water communication +between<a id="footnotetag312" name="footnotetag312"></a> +<a href="#footnote312"><sup class="sml">312</sup></a> Cairo and Timbuctoo +receives (supposing the Quarterly Review to be +correct), as our intelligence respecting Africa +increases, additional confirmation: and even the +Quarterly Reviewer, who denominated the opinion +recorded by me, the gossipping stories of +Negroes, (<i>vide</i> Quarterly Review, No. 25, p. 140.) +now favours this opinion!</p> + +<p>The Quarterly Reviewer appreciates Burckhardt's +information on this subject, and depreciates +mine, <i>although both are derived from the +same sources of</i><a id="footnotetag313" name="footnotetag313"></a> +<a href="#footnote313"><sup class="sml">313</sup></a> <i>intelligence, and confirm one +another</i>: the reviewer says, Mr. Burckhardt has +revived a question of older date; viz. "that +the Niger of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are +one and the same river: this general testimony +to a physical fact can be shaken only by direct +proof to the contrary."</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote312" +name="footnote312"></a><b>Footnote 312:</b><a href="#footnotetag312"> +(return) </a> <i>Vide</i> Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, +p. 310.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote313" +name="footnote313"></a><b>Footnote 313:</b><a href="#footnotetag313"> +(return) </a> <i>i.e</i>. Intelligence from natives of Africa.</blockquote> + +<p>This is all very well: I do not object to the +Quarterly Reviewer giving up an opinion which +he finds no longer tenable; but when I see in +the same review (No. 44, p. 481.) the following +words,--"we give no credit whatever to the +<a name="p516" id="p516"></a><span class="pagenum">[516]</span> +report received by Mr. Jackson, of a person +(several Negroes<a id="footnotetag314" name="footnotetag314"></a> +<a href="#footnote314"><sup class="sml">314</sup></a>, it should be) having performed +a voyage by water from Timbuctoo to Cairo," +I cannot but observe with astonishment, that +the Reviewer believes Burckhardt's report, that +they are the same river, when, at the same time +he does not believe mine.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote314" +name="footnote314"></a><b>Footnote 314:</b><a href="#footnotetag314"> +(return) </a> <i>Vide</i> Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, +p. 312.</blockquote> + +<p>Is there not an inconsistency here, somewhat +incompatible with the impartiality which <i>ought</i> +to regulate the works of criticism? I will not +for a moment suppose it to have proceeded from +a spirit of animosity, which I feel myself unconscious +of deserving. But the reviewer further +says, the objection to the identity of the Niger +and the Nile, is grounded on the incongruity +of their periodical inundations, or on the rise +and fall of the former river not corresponding +with that of the latter. I do not comprehend +whence the Quarterly Reviewer has derived +this information; I have always understood the +direct contrary, which I have declared in the +enlarged editions of my account of Marocco, +page 304, which has been confirmed by a most +intelligent African traveller, Ali Bey, (for which +see his travels, page 220.)</p> + +<p>I may be allowed to observe, that although +the Quarterly Reviewer has changed his opinion +on this matter, I have invariably maintained +mine, founded as it is on the concurrent testimony +of the best informed and most intelligent +native African travellers, and I still assert, on +<a name="p517" id="p517"></a><span class="pagenum">[517]</span> +the same foundation, <i>the identity of the two Niles, +and their continuity of waters</i>.</p> + +<p>I have further to remark what will most probably +ere long prove correct; viz. that the +<i>Bahar Abiad</i><a id="footnotetag315" name="footnotetag315"></a> +<a href="#footnote315"><sup class="sml">315</sup></a>, that is to say, the river that +passes through the country of Negroes, between +Senaar and Donga, is an erroneous appellation, +originating in the general ignorance among +European travellers of the African Arabic, and +that the proper name of this river is Bahar +Abeed, which is another term for the river +called the Nile-el-Abeed, which passes south +of Timbuctoo towards the east (called by Europeans +the Niger).</p> + +<p>It therefore appears to me, and I really think +it must appear to every unbiassed investigator +of African geography, that every iota of African +discovery, made successively, by Hornemann<a id="footnotetag316" name="footnotetag316"></a> +<a href="#footnote316"><sup class="sml">316</sup></a>, +Burckhardt, and others, tends to confirm <i>my +water communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo</i>, +and the theorists and speculators in African +geography, who have heaped hypothesis upon +hypothesis, error upon error, who have raised +splendid fabrics upon pillars of ice, will ere +long close their book, and be compelled, by the +force of truth and experience, to admit the +fact stated about twelve years ago by me in my +account of Marocco, &c. viz. <i>that the Nile of</i> +<a name="p518" id="p518"></a><span class="pagenum">[518]</span> +<i>Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are identified by a +continuity of waters, and that a water communication +is provided by these two great rivers from +Timbuctoo to Cairo</i>; and moreover, that the +general African opinion, <i>that the Neel-el-Abeed</i> +(Niger) <i>discharges itself into the</i> (Bahar el Mâleh) +<i>Salt Sea, signifies neither more nor less than +that it discharges itself at the Delta in Egypt, into +the Mediterranean Sea</i>!</p> + +<p class="rig"><span class="sc">James Grey Jackson.</span></p><br><br> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote315" +name="footnote315"></a><b>Footnote 315:</b><a href="#footnotetag315"> +(return) </a> Bahar Abiad signifies White River; Bahar Abeed signifies +River of Negroes.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote316" +name="footnote316"></a><b>Footnote 316:</b><a href="#footnotetag316"> +(return) </a> <i>Vide</i> my letter in Monthly Magazine on this subject for +March, 1817, p. 124.</blockquote> + +<p><a name="p519" id="p519"></a><span class="pagenum">[519]</span></p><br><br> + +<h2>APPENDIX;</h2> + +<h3>BEING HISTORICAL FRAGMENTS IN ELUCIDATION OF<br> +THE FOREGOING PAGES.</h3> + +<p><i>First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo.--Timbuctoo +and Guago captured by Muley Homed, (son of Muley +Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk</i><a id="footnotetag317" name="footnotetag317"></a> +<a href="#footnote317"><sup class="sml">317</sup></a>, <i>or Muley +Moluck,) in the 16th Century, (about the Year 1580</i>.)</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote317" +name="footnote317"></a><b>Footnote 317:</b><a href="#footnotetag317"> +(return) </a> See the Spectator, No. 349.</blockquote> + +<p>Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Moluck, +in 1577, A.C. fought the celebrated battle with Don +Sebastian, King of Portugal, near Alkassar, which is at +a short distance from L'Araich, wherein Don Sebastian +was killed; and Abdelmelk being, before the battle, extremely +ill, his son Muley Hamed went to his litter, to +communicate to the Emperor his father, that the Moors +had gained the victory, when he found his father dead +and cold. Muley Hamed concealed this event till the +battle was over; and was then proclaimed Emperor, and +reigned twenty-six years: he cultivated the arts and sciences, +mathematics and astronomy, which last was of essential +service to him in crossing the Sahara to Timbuctoo +and Guago; during which perilous journey the compass +is so indispensable, that there is no certainty of travelling +without it. He lost some thousands in this expedition; +<a name="p520" id="p520"></a><span class="pagenum">[520]</span>but if gold could recompense the waste of human life, +he was rewarded for his journey of abstinence and privation +across the Sahara, for he brought from Guago +seventy-five quintals, and from Timbuctoo sixty quintals, +of gold-dust, making together one hundred and thirty-five +quintals, or 16,065 lb. English avoir-du-poids weight of +gold.</p> + +<p><i>A Library of Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards,--Contests +among Christians reprimanded.</i></p> + +<p>Muley Sidan, son of Muley Hamed, disputed the +throne of Marocco, A.C. 1611, with three brothers, one +of whom was supported by the Spaniards, whose succour +was purchased by his delivering into their hands +the port of L'Araich, soon after which they gained a +naval victory over the forces of Sidan, which was very +disastrous to the Africans; for the Spaniards, besides +other plunder, got possession of 3000 Arabic books, on +theology, philosophy, and medicine. Sidan, however, +notwithstanding this disaster, maintained his right to the +crown. He was of a liberal and charitable mind. He +protected and granted to the Christians various privileges; +but <i>he ordered that Christians of all sects, and +denominations should live in peace one with another</i>.</p> + +<p>One day, some (<i>Userah</i>) Christian slaves of Provence, +in France, who were Catholics, had a controversial +dispute with others from Rochelle, who were Calvinists. +This dispute ended in a violent contest, accompanied with +blows on either side; this scene excited the curiosity of +the Muselmen, who were surprised to see Christians +thus fight among themselves on points of their own law! +The report of this battle was carried to Sidan, who ordered +all these slaves to be brought before him. He condemned +some to a bastinado, which was inflicted in his +<a name="p521" id="p521"></a><span class="pagenum">[521]</span>presence. He then addressed them thus:--"I command +you all, on pain of death, not to dispute in future +on the various dogmas of your law: every one has the +presumption to think <i>himself</i> right; and as I allow every +individual in my dominions to follow the religion that +he chooses for himself; <i>slaves ought to have among themselves +the same toleration</i>".</p> + +<p><i>Muley El Arsheed, (a second Expedition to Timbuctoo and +Sudan.)</i></p> + +<p>This Sultan preceded the renowned Muley Ismael, on +the throne of Marocco: he united to great ability the +most ferocious disposition, and was continually inebriated.--He +crossed the Sahara to Timbuctoo, with a +numerous army, about the year of Christ 1670; proceeding +to <i>Suse</i>, he laid siege to the Sanctuary of <i>Seedi +Aly ben Aidar</i>, near <i>Ilirgh</i>: Seedi Aly, making his +escape in disguise, fled to Sudan, whither he was followed +by Muley El Arsheed, who, on his arrival on the +confines of Sudan, between Timbuctoo and Jinnie, was +met by a numerous host of Negroes, commanded by a +black sultan: the Emperor demanded Aly ben Aidar; +but the sultan of Bambarra replied, that, as he had +claimed his protection, it would be an infringement on +the laws of hospitality to deliver him up, adding, that +he desired to know if the views of El Arsheed were hostile +or not; to which the latter replied, after endeavouring +in vain to procure the person of Aly, that he was +not come hostilely, but was about to return, which he +forthwith did: and the Bambareen sultan, having received +from Aly two beautiful renegade virgins, was so +much flattered with the present, that he promised him +any thing that he should ask; whereupon, he requested +permission to go to Timbuctoo, and to settle there with +his numerous followers; which being granted, he proceeded +<a name="p522" id="p522"></a><span class="pagenum">[522]</span>thither, and having established a Moorish garrison, +resided there several, months, and afterwards returned +to Barbary, bringing with him many thousand +Bambareen negroes: but, on his reaching Suse, he heard +of the death of Muley El Arsheed, and having then no +farther occasion for these negroes, he dismissed them. +They went to various parts of the country, serving the +inhabitants in order to procure daily subsistence; but the +arch-politician Muley Ismael, who had then recently been +proclaimed as his successor, ordered them to be collected +together, and incorporated in his negro army, +which was, however, before this, very numerous, consisting +for the most part of blacks, brought away from +Sudan by Muley El Arsheed the preceding year. The +Sultan Ismael also seized this opportunity of establishing +his authority at Timbuctoo, and he met with little or no +opposition in putting that place under contribution. Having +sent fresh troops to occupy the Moorish garrison there, +the inhabitants were glad to make a contribution, in exchange +for the protection and power which it afforded +them; for previous to this, they had been subject to continual +depredations, from the Arabs of the adjacent +country, to whom they had been compelled to pay tribute, +as a security for their caravans, which were constantly +passing the country of these Arabs, who are of the +race of Brabeesh. In the year 1727, A.C. when Ismael +died, it is reported that he possessed an immense quantity +of gold, of the purity of which, his gold coins, to be +seen at this day at Timbuctoo, bear testimony; it is also +said, that the massive bolts of his palaces were of pure +gold, as well as the utensils of his kitchens. After his +decease, however, the tribute was discontinued, and the +Moorish garrison at Timbuctoo, intermarrying with the +natives, and dispersing themselves in the neighbouring +country, has given to Timbuctoo that tincture of Muselman +manners, which they are known to possess; their +<a name="p523" id="p523"></a><span class="pagenum">[523]</span>descendants forming, at this period, a considerable portion +of the population of Timbuctoo.</p> + +<p><i>Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan</i>.</p> + +<p>Muley Ismael died of an abscess in 1727, and was +succeeded by his youngest son Muley Hamed Dehebby, +a most avaricious prince, whose treasure, collected in his +government during the life of his father, amounted to +ten millions; to which was now added his father's treasury, +amounting to fifty millions, besides jewels and +diamonds to a much larger amount.</p> + +<p>Dehebby<a id="footnotetag318" name="footnotetag318"></a> +<a href="#footnote318"><sup class="sml">318</sup></a>, sanguinary and cruel when sober, was mild, +affable, and humane when intoxicated: unlike Muselmen, +he believed not in predestination, but had always several +surgeons and doctors in his suite, and consulted them +with the most unlimited confidence when ill. He decorated +the palace of Marocco: in one of the apartments +of the seraglio, of which he had had painted, in a +superior style, the twelve signs of the zodiac; for which +his ignorant and bigoted subjects accused him of having +conspired against the Deity, in imitating, by gross and ill-formed +images, the works of the Almighty. This prince +was an intolerable drunkard; so that the Marabets and +chiefs of the empire called Abdelmelk to the throne, +whom they enabled to take possession of Mequinas. This +prince, anticipating the revenge of Dehebby, proposed to +deprive him of his eye-sight; but the Marabets and +chiefs opposed this resolution and replied to him in the +following words:--"It is not for his crimes that we +have deposed thy brother, but for his continual intoxication, +which prevented him from watching over the +government and his officers: he has therefore only been +<a name="p524" id="p524"></a><span class="pagenum">[524]</span>guilty of weakness, which is not a punishable crime." +Abdelmelk dared not push his point, but was contented +to send his brother to the (<i>Bled Shereef</i>), country of +princes, i.e. Tafilelt. Before Dehebby was dethroned, +he marched with a numerous army across Sahara, to +Timbuctoo, of which he took possession, and brought +home immense quantities of gold.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote318" +name="footnote318"></a><b>Footnote 318:</b><a href="#footnotetag318"> +(return) </a> His proper name was Muley Hamed ben Ismael, the name Dehebby +is figurative of his riches in gold.</blockquote> + +<p>1730.--Muley Hamed Dehebby dying, should have +been succeeded by his son Muley Bouffer; but money +and intrigue gave power to Abdallah, a son of Muley +Ismael, who was proclaimed in spite of the efforts +of his nephew, whom he attacked at Terodant, the +capital of Suse. Bouffer was taken, together with +a Marabet, his confidential friend and counsellor. +Abdallah ordered them both to be brought before him.--"Thou +art young," said he to his nephew; "thou hadst +imprudently undertaken more than thou couldst accomplish; +and in consideration of thy youth and inexperience, +I pardon thee, but I will be revenged of thy counsellor." +Then turning himself to the Marabet, "Thou, art a rebel," +said he. "Didst thou imagine that thy sacred character, +which thou hast abused against thy (<i>Seed</i>) Lord +or King would prevent him from punishing thee? Let +us see if thy sanctity will turn the edge of my sword."--In +uttering these words, he struck off the saint's head.</p> +<br><br> + +<h2>I N D E X.</h2> + +<hr class="short"> + +<h3>A.</h3> + +<p>ABDELMELK, the prince, moral reflection on his expensive +apparel, <a href="#p79">79.</a> Is sent to Tafilelt, <a href="#p80">80.</a><br> + +<i>Abolition</i> of Slavery depends on the Africans themselves, not +on our naval force or operations, <a href="#p270">270.</a><br> + +<i>Abstinence</i> experienced in the Sahara, <a href="#p353">353.</a> Means used to +support it. Effects of, <a href="#p354">354.</a><br> + +<i>Abbuselah Woled</i>, Arabs of, <a href="#p138">138.</a><br> + +<i>Abdrahaman ben Nassar</i>, bashaw of Abda, interview +with, <a href="#p136">136.</a><br> + +<i>Abdsalam</i>, prince, departs for Tafilelt, through Draha and +Bled el jereed, <a href="#p149">149.</a><br> + +<i>Abeed</i>, <a href="#p481">481.</a> Seedi Bukaree, emperor's body guard, <a href="#p481">481.</a><br> + +<i>Aboukir</i>, battle of, its consequence to muselmen, <a href="#p101">101.</a><br> + +<i>Acephali</i>, <a href="#p198">198.</a><br> + +<i>Africa</i>, plan for the discovery of, <a href="#p201">201.</a><br> + +<i>African</i> Association, Institution, &c. recommended to unite +their energies and operations to cultivate a commercial +intercourse with Africa, <a href="#p228">228.</a> The same recommended +an a large scale, <a href="#p249">249.</a> African Company, a plan for, <a href="#p251">251.</a> +African Association, disastrous expeditions of, <a href="#p258">258.</a> +An union of the African interests beneficial, <a href="#p271">271.</a> African +duplicity exemplified, <a href="#p293">293.</a> African Association +might find the son of Ali Bey an acquisition in promoting +their views, <a href="#p304">304.</a><br> + +<i>African</i> names, how pronounced, <a href="#p491">491.</a><br> + +<i>Agadeer</i>, or Santa Cruz, port of, opened to Dutch commerce, +<a href="#p55">55.</a> Apprehensions at Mogodor from the establishment +of Santa Cruz, <a href="#p56">56.</a> Conveniently situated for +the markets of Sudan. Denominated the gate of Sudan, <a href="#p56">56.</a> +Port of, farmed by Muley Ismael, <a href="#p57">57.</a> Author's arrival +at, to open the port to European commerce. Wretched +state of its inhabitants. Honourable reception of the +author there, <a href="#p59">59.</a> Disgraceful custom abolished by the +author, <a href="#p60">60.</a> Propensity to commerce among the people +of Suse. Sanctuary at the entrance of the town. Privilege +of riding in and out of the town established by the author, +for Christians of all denominations, <a href="#p61">61.</a> Commercial +road made by the author down the mountain to facilitate +the shipment of merchandise, <a href="#p62">62.</a> The spirit of the +natives in working at it. Happy influence of commerce +and industry on the people. Portuguese tower in the +neighbourhood, <a href="#p63">63.</a> Description of the town, <a href="#p64">64.</a> Strength +of, and convenient situation for a depôt, <a href="#p65">65.</a> Mitferes, depositaries +for water, <a href="#p65">65.</a> Attempt of the Danes to establish +a colony in its vicinage, at Agadeer Arba. Battery +at, <a href="#p66">66.</a> Safe road for shipping. Inhabitants friendly to +the English, <a href="#p67">67.</a> Port of, shut by the Emperor, and the +garrison and merchants ordered to go to Marocco, and +from thence to quit the country or establish at Mogodor, +<a href="#p79">79.</a> Negociation for the port of, from the emperor, <a href="#p246">246.</a><br> + +<i>Agricultural</i> property, division of, <a href="#p330">330.</a> Agriculture, <a href="#p339">339.</a><br> + +<i>Aisawie</i>, or charmers of serpents described, <a href="#p430">430.</a><br> + +<i>Ait Attar</i>, or Attarites, an independent kabyl or clan, <a href="#p311">311.</a><br> + +<i>Akka</i>, <a href="#p7">7.</a> Depôt for camels, <a href="#p248">248.</a><br> + +<i>Akkaba</i>, kaffilas, or caravans to Timbuctoo, where eligible +to be established, <a href="#p263">263.</a><br> + +<i>Akkaba</i>, what, <a href="#p345">345.</a><br> + +<i>Akkad</i>, its signification, <a href="#p411">411.</a><br> + +<i>Alk Sudan</i>, what, <a href="#p345">345.</a><br> + +<i>Altitude</i> of the Atlas mountains, <a href="#p93">93</a>, <a href="#p94">94.</a><br> + +<i>Ali Bey</i>, an account of; <a href="#p297">297.</a> Suspicions entertained respecting +him. His magnificent mode of living. Excites +the suspicion of the governor of Marocco, <a href="#p300">300.</a> He is +prevented from visiting the Atlas mountains, <a href="#p301">301.</a> He is +favoured by the emperor, <a href="#p302">302.</a> Stratagem practised to +ascertain what religion he followed. Ordered to embark +at Laraich. Is separated from his wife. Her conduct. +He predicts an eclipse, <a href="#p303">303.</a> Passes for a learned man. +Suspected to be an agent of Bonaparte. His son resides at +Fas, patronised by the Marabet Muley Dris or Idris, <a href="#p304">304.</a><br> + +<i>Algiers</i>, attack of, recommended to the Emperor of Marocco, +<a href="#p283">283.</a><br> + +<i>Almonds</i>, plantations of, <a href="#p74">74.</a><br> + +<i>Ambassador</i>, British, the author's interview with. Great +honor shown to him on his entry into Tangier, <a href="#p127">127.</a><br> + +<i>Amber</i>, manufactured imitation of, at Fas, <a href="#p126">126,</a> <a href="#p216">216.</a><br> + +<i>Amaranites</i>, or Ait Amaran, a tribe of Berebbers, <a href="#p124">124.</a><br> + +<i>Amak</i>, the poet, his sumptuous style of living, <a href="#p353">353.</a><br> + +<i>Amorites</i>, of the, <a href="#p475">475.</a><br> + +------, or Ait Amor, <a href="#p122">122.</a> Descendants of the ancient +Amorites, <a href="#p124">124.</a> Anecdotes of, <a href="#p193">193.</a><br> + +<i>Amusements</i> of Europeans at Marocco, <a href="#p89">89.</a><br> + +<i>Anachronism</i> of the author misapplied, <a href="#p442">442.</a><br> + +<i>Angola</i>, natives of, how converted to Christianity, <a href="#p442">442.</a><br> + +<i>Anti-commercial</i> system, <a href="#p211">211.</a><br> + +<i>Antiperistasis</i> of the Africans, how promoted, <a href="#p230">230.</a><br> + +<i>Antimony</i> mines, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> + +<i>Anecdote</i> of an Emperor, <a href="#p307">307.</a><br> + +<i>Anecdotes</i>, fragments, and notes, <a href="#p276">276.</a><br> + +<i>Antithesis</i>, a favourite figure with the Arabs, <a href="#p349">349.</a><br> + +<i>Apparel</i> of the emperor, plain and simple, <a href="#p79">79.</a><br> + +<i>Arabs</i>, cookery of, <a href="#p64">64.</a> Riches of, in what they consist, <a href="#p247">247.</a> +Dance and music, <a href="#p140">140.</a> Abstinence of, <a href="#p141">141.</a> Beauty of +their women, <a href="#p142">142.</a> Patriarchal life of, <a href="#p143">143,</a> <a href="#p196">196.</a> Arab +royalty personified, <a href="#p195">195.</a> Customs of, <a href="#p244">244.</a> Of Sahara, +hostile to those who do not understand their language, +<a href="#p262">262.</a> The manners of, resemble those of the patriarchal +ages, <a href="#p276">276.</a>. The study of their language and customs +the best comment on the Old Testament, <a href="#p276">276.</a> + Their +territory and origin, <a href="#p328">328.</a> Decay of science and arts +among, <a href="#p352">352.</a><br> + +------, sheiks of, hold themselves accountable for the property, +baggage, &c. of travellers, <a href="#p233">233.</a><br> + +<i>Arabic</i> document distributed by Mr. Bowdich in Africa, to +the natives, unintelligible, <a href="#p492">492.</a><br> + +------ language, on the,<a href="#p471">471.</a> The language of Palestine +resembles that of West Barbary, <a href="#p473">473.</a><br> + +----------, general utility of, a practical knowledge +of in Africa, <a href="#p258">258.</a> On the language, <a href="#p357">357.</a> Arabian +music, <a href="#p318">318.</a> Arabic grammar, errors in Richardson's, +<a href="#p351">351.</a> Pure Arabic, where spoken, <a href="#p351">351.</a> Arabian modes +of writing, <a href="#p350">350.</a> Errors committed by professors of, who +have not a practical knowledge of the language, <a href="#p39">39.</a><br> + +----------, universality of the, <a href="#p473">473.</a><br> + +------ translations of documents in, furnished to government +by the author, <a href="#p407">407.</a><br> + +------ manuscripts, 3000 taken by the Spaniards, <a href="#p520">520.</a><br> + +------ interpreter, the author officiates as, with the prince +Muley Teib, <a href="#p192">192.</a><br> + +<i>Architecture</i> described, <a href="#p90">90.</a> Gothic prevails, <a href="#p271">271.</a><br> + +<i>Argan</i> tree, and oil of, <a href="#p510">510.</a><br> + +------ trees, oil of the, productive of leprosy if not properly +prepared, <a href="#p91">91.</a><br> + +<i>Ashantee</i>, intercourse through, with Timbuctoo objectionable, +and why, <a href="#p249">249.</a><br> + +<i>Atlas</i>, foot of, a productive country, <a href="#p74">74.</a>. Table land in, +and produce of, <a href="#p75">75.</a> Narrow defile or pass, <a href="#p76">76.</a> Calculated +altitude of, <a href="#p93">93.</a>.<br> + +<i>Attarites</i>, or Ait Attar, a tribe of Berebbers, <a href="#p124">124.</a><br> + +<i>Audiences</i> of the emperor, introductory, of business, of leave +or departure, <a href="#p89">89.</a><br> + +<i>Author's</i> intelligence respecting the interior of Africa, considered +valuable, <a href="#p99">99.</a><br> + +------ travels in disguise, <a href="#p136">136.</a><br> + +<i>Azamore</i>, <a href="#p110">110.</a></p> + +<h3>B.</h3> + +<p><i>Bab</i> Sudan, <a href="#p456">456.</a><br> + +<i>Badge</i> of distinction worn by the lepers, <a href="#p91">91.</a><br> + +<i>Bahar</i> Segrer, the Mediterranean designated by that term, +<a href="#p486">486.</a><br> + +------ Sudan, corroborative testimony of its situation, <a href="#p450">450,</a> +<a href="#p451">451,</a> <a href="#p465">465,</a><br> + +----------, situation of, <a href="#p436">436.</a><br> + +------ Kulla, explanation of the term, <a href="#p444">444.</a>. Ditto of +Bahar Sudan, <a href="#p448">448.</a><br> + +------ El Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, Atlantic Ocean designated +by that name, <a href="#p489">489.</a><br> + +------ El Abeed, not Bahar El Abiad, <a href="#p517">517.</a><br> + +<i>Ba</i> Scafeena, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, +<a href="#p450">450,</a> <a href="#p465">465.</a><br> + +----------, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, +properly called Bahar S'feena, <a href="#p506">506.</a><br> +<i>Bank</i>, in West Barbary, recommended, <a href="#p237">237.</a><br> + +<i>Banks</i>, Sir Joseph's letter to Mr. Dickson, respecting the +death of Mungo Park, a passage in it confirmed only in +Mr. Jackson's translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's account +of that traveller's death, brought by Mr. Bowdich from +Ashantee, but not in Mr. Salemé's translation, <a href="#p425">425.</a> The +author's translation, <a href="#p409">409.</a><br> + +<i>Barbary</i>, conquered by the Romans, by the Vandals, by +the Greeks, by the Arabs, <a href="#p458">458.</a> Partial conquest of by +the Portuguese and Spaniards, <a href="#p458">458.</a><br> + +--------, travelling in, <a href="#p293">293.</a><br> + +<i>Bashaw</i> of Abda, interview with, <a href="#p136">136.</a><br> + +<i>Bedouins</i>, emigration of. Camel's milk, their food, <a href="#p203">203.</a> +Domestic looms of. Manufactures of. Custom of, <a href="#p205">204.</a> +Mode of living. Extempore poetry of, <a href="#p205">205.</a> Manners +of, <a href="#p206">206.</a><br> + +<i>Beef</i>, mode of preserving for food in the desert, <a href="#p349">349.</a><br> + +<i>Berebbers</i>, their contest with the emperor, <a href="#p308">308.</a> Their territory +and language, <a href="#p327">327.</a> Names of their clans or tribes, +<a href="#p124">124.</a> Specimen of their language, <a href="#p367">367.</a><br> + +<i>Bernou</i>, etymology of, <a href="#p449">449.</a><br> + +<i>Bism illak, and El Ham'd û lillah</i>, signification of, <a href="#p231">231.</a><br> + +<i>Bonaparte</i>, his system respecting Africa, <a href="#p229">229.</a><br> + +<i>Bouska</i>, exhibition of that monstrous serpent, <a href="#p451">451.</a><br> + +<i>Brimstone</i> mines, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> + +<i>British</i> public, address to, <a href="#p253">253.</a><br> + +<i>Buffé</i>, Dr. his medical success at Marocco, <a href="#p396">396.</a> He is +recommended to his majesty George the Third, and his +majesty is requested, by the emperor, to return him to Gibraltar, +to reside there as the emperor's physician, <a href="#p397">397.</a><br> + +<i>Buhellessa</i>, the pretender, described, <a href="#p287">287.</a> He is an adept in +the occult sciences, <a href="#p288">288.</a> He marches with 22,000 men +to attack Delemy's castle, <a href="#p289">289.</a> He is vanquished and +beheaded, <a href="#p290">290.</a> His army dispersed, his head and feet +sent to the Prince Muley Abdsalam, at Santa Cruz, <a href="#p290">290.</a> +The prince rewards the man who killed the usurper: the +author visits the field of battle, which resembled the plains +of Waterloo, <a href="#p291">291.</a><br> + +<i>Buregreg</i> river, <a href="#p113">113.</a><br> + +<i>Burkhardt</i>, anticipation respecting, <a href="#p449">449.</a><br> + +<i>Butellise</i>, or night-blindness, described, <a href="#p332">332.</a><br> + +--------, or nyctalopia, an ophthalmia that affects our seamen +in the Mediterranean, <a href="#p433">433.</a><br> + +<i>Butter</i>, melted, food in the desert, <a href="#p6">6.</a></p> + +<h3>C.</h3> + +<p><i>Camel</i>, the ship of the desert, <a href="#p247">247.</a><br> + +<i>Caffer</i>, or Khaffer, signification of, <a href="#p345">345.</a><br> + +<i>Cairo</i>, derivation of the name, <a href="#p326">326.</a><br> + +<i>Canary</i> language resembles the shelluh of Atlas, <a href="#p381">381.</a><br> + +<i>Caravans</i> accumulate as they proceed to the confines of Sahara, +<a href="#p4">4.</a><br> + +<i>Cape</i> of Good Hope, how to preserve, and to improve its +produce, <a href="#p339">339,</a> <a href="#p340">340. </a><br> + +<i>Cape de Verd</i>, compared to Ceuta, <a href="#p229">229.</a><br> + +<i>Ceuta</i>, preparation for the siege of, by the emperor Muley +Yezzid, <a href="#p403">403.</a><br> + +<i>Christians</i>, harmony among, necessary to precede the conversion +of Africa, <a href="#p131">131.</a><br> + +<i>Christian</i> religion, how to propagate it in Africa, <a href="#p224">224.</a><br> + +--------, impediments to its propagation, <a href="#p225">225.</a><br> + +--------, the influence of its principles in Africa, <a href="#p227">227.</a><br> + +<i>Civilisation</i> of Africa, the necessary result of commerce, +and the only plan by which an expectation of the conversion +of the natives to Christianity can possibly be indulged, +<a href="#p263">263.</a><br> + +---------- of Africa, through commerce, the only effectual +means of abolishing the slave trade, <a href="#p270">270.</a><br> + +<i>Civil</i> war prevalent in West and in South Barbary, <a href="#p279">279.</a><br> +<i>Characteristic</i> trait of Muhamedans,<a href="#p308">308.</a> <br> +<i>Christians</i>, ordered by the emperor, on pain of death, to live +peaceably with one another, <a href="#p520">520.</a><br> +<i>Christ</i> acknowledged by muselmen, <a href="#p240">240.</a><br> +<i>Circumcision</i>, when performed among Muhamedans, <a href="#p345">345.</a><br> +<i>Cobas</i> described, <a href="#p272">272.</a><br> +<i>Colonial</i> produce, consequences of the cultivation of, in +Senegal by the French, <a href="#p228">228.</a><br> +<i>Commercial</i> intercourse with Africa favourable to the propagation +of Christianity, <a href="#p227">227.</a><br> +Recommended on a large scale, <a href="#p249">249,</a> <a href="#p251">251,</a> <a href="#p259">259.</a><br> + +<i>Commercial</i> adventurer in Africa more likely to succeed than +a scientific one, <a href="#p259">259.</a> <br> +<i>Commerce</i>, the key of Africa,<a href="#p428">428.</a> <br> +<i>Communication</i> with Africa to be effected by the medium of +commerce, <a href="#p493">493.</a> <br> +<i>Connubial</i> customs, <a href="#p313">313.</a><br> +<i>Copper</i> mines, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> +<i>Corn</i>, abundant at Dar el Beida and at Fedalla, <a href="#p110">110.</a> + Abundance of, in West Barbary,<a href="#p208">208,</a> <a href="#p340">340.</a><br> +<i>Couriers</i>, confidence reposed in them, <a href="#p405">405.</a><br> +<i>Coffee</i> of Timbuctoo, <a href="#p279">279.</a><br> +<i>Consuls</i> of the European powers, their residence, <a href="#p130">130.</a><br> +<i>Congo</i>, Africans of, how converted to the Christian faith, <a href="#p442">442_.</a><br> +<i>Continental</i> markets of Europe, contemplation how they will +be supplied with colonial produce, <a href="#p229">229.</a><br> +<i>Cuscusoe</i>, or more properly Kuskasoe, an excellent food, +mode of preparing it, <a href="#p97">97.</a><br> +<i>Customs</i>, Muhamedan, <a href="#p230">230.</a>.<br> +<i>Cuba</i>, slave-trade and produce of, increased, <a href="#p270">270.</a><br> +<i>Customs</i> of the shelluhs of Idaultit, and laws of, remarkable,<a href="#p313">313.</a> <br> +<i>Customs</i>, ceremonies at funerals, <a href="#p465">465.</a></p> + +<h3>D.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Dances</i> of the Arabs described, music of, <a href="#p140">140,</a> <a href="#p344">344.</a><br> +<i>Dates</i> abundant at Tafilelt, <a href="#p80">80.</a><br> +<i>Dar el Beida</i>, a corn country, <a href="#p110">110.</a><br> +<i>Dead</i>, bodies of the, never interred in towns or in the +mosques, <a href="#p272">272.</a> + Ceremony of interment, <a href="#p273">273.</a><br> +<i>Deism</i>, <a href="#p325">325.</a><br> +<i>Deef Allah</i>, what, <a href="#p341">341.</a><br> +<i>Decay</i> of science and the arts among the Arabs, <a href="#p352">352.</a><br> + +<i>Delel</i>, i.e. auctioneer of slaves at Marocco, <a href="#p95">95.</a><br> +<i>Deleim</i>, woled Arabs, <a href="#p138">138.</a><br> +<i>Decked</i> vessels in the interior of Africa, <a href="#p449">449.</a><br> +<i>Delemy</i>, sheik of the Deleim Arabs,<a href="#p138">138.</a> + Invites the author and his companion, Signor Andrea de Christo, + to pass the night at a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, <a href="#p139">139.</a> + Garden of, described, <a href="#p147">147.</a> + Renown of, <a href="#p148">148.</a> + A main pillar to the throne of Marocco, <a href="#p148">148.</a> + Receives an exhortation from the prince Abdsalam to give battle + to the usurper Buhellessa, <a href="#p288">288.</a> + Dextrous in the management of a horse, <a href="#p289">289.</a><br> +<i>Desert</i>, rate of travelling through, <a href="#p470">470.</a><br> +<i>Dews</i> of the night, how they secure themselves against, + when sleeping, <a href="#p154">154.</a><br> +<i>Deef Allah</i>, custom of uttering, <a href="#p233">233.</a><br> +<i>Dimenet</i>, in the Atlas, attacked by the emperor,<a href="#p305">305.</a> <br> +<i>Difference</i> between the oriental and occidental Arabic + alphabets, <a href="#p351">351.</a><br> +<i>Djinawa</i>, definition of the name, <a href="#p507">507.</a><br> +<i>Distances</i> from port to port, along the coast, calculated, <a href="#p132">132.</a><br> +<i>Discovery</i> of Africa, plan for, <a href="#p200">200.</a><br> +<i>Disgrace</i> of inhospitality,<a href="#p240">240.</a><br> +<i>Doctors</i>, itinerant, their apparatus, <a href="#p242">242.</a><br> +<i>Douars</i>, or villages of tents, described, <a href="#p328">328.</a><br> +<i>Draha</i>, province of, <a href="#p2">2.</a> + Hire of camels from Tafilelt to, <a href="#p2">2.</a> + Dates, the names of the different species, <a href="#p3">3.</a> + Plantations of, <a href="#p3">3.</a> + Inhabitants of nearly black, <a href="#p2">2.</a> + Character of them, <a href="#p2">2,</a> <a href="#p7">7.</a><br> +<i>Drahim</i>, what,<a href="#p3">3.</a><br> +<i>Driss Zerone Muley</i>, renowned sanctuary of,<a href="#p118">118.</a> + Author's hospitable reception there, and admission to the + adytum, <a href="#p119">119.</a><br> +<i>Duplicity</i> of the Africans exemplified,<a href="#p293">293,</a> <a href="#p314">314.</a></p> + +<h3>E.</h3> + +<p> +<i>East</i> India trade, our, how likely to be affected by French +colonisation, in Senegal, <a href="#p229">229.</a><br> +<i>Ebekoaits</i>, or Ait Ebeko, a tribe of Berebbers, <a href="#p124">124.</a><br> +<i>Effah el</i>, exhibition of that venomous serpent, <a href="#p453">453.</a><br> +<i>Elephants</i>, <a href="#p8">8.</a><br> +<i>Elegant</i> females, <a href="#p142">142.</a><br> +<i>Emperor</i> admits an ambassador without prostration, and why, <a href="#p282">282.</a><br> +-------- Yezzid is wounded, and dies, <a href="#p285">285.</a> + His body exhumated, <a href="#p286">286.</a> + Compared to his majesty George the Fourth, <a href="#p287">287.</a><br> +<i>Emperor</i>, anecdote of one, <a href="#p307">307.</a> + His contest with the Berebbers, <a href="#p308">308.</a> + Letter from him to his bashaw of Suse respecting English seamen + wrecked on the western coast of Africa, <a href="#p364">364.</a> + Titles of H.I.M., <a href="#p382">382.</a>. + Style of addressing him, <a href="#p382">382.</a><br> +<i>Emperor's</i> letters, <a href="#p384">384,</a> <a href="#p387">387,</a> <a href="#p392">392,</a> <a href="#p394">394,</a> <a href="#p395">395,</a> <a href="#p398">398,</a> <a href="#p402">402,</a> <a href="#p403">403,</a> <a href="#p405">405.</a><br> +---- plan of reconciling catholics with protestants, <a href="#p520">520.</a><br> +---- table, simplicity of the furniture of, <a href="#p96">96.</a><br> +---- audience of business of the, <a href="#p98">98.</a> + Audience of leave in the garden of the Nile, <a href="#p98">98.</a><br> +<i>Embassy</i>, British, to Marocco, result of, <a href="#p128">128.</a><br> +<i>Encroachments</i> of the French anticipated on our colonial + arkets, <a href="#p230">230.</a><br> +<i>Encyclopedia</i> Britannica, misapplication of an anachronism, <a href="#p442">442.</a> + The editor of has adopted the author's opinion respecting + the course of the Niger, <a href="#p447">447.</a><br> +<i>Epistolary</i> correspondence, <a href="#p382">382.</a><br> +<i>Epistolary</i> diction used by Muhamedans, <a href="#p404">404.</a><br> +<i>Equity</i>, case of, <a href="#p312">312.</a><br> +<i>Esshume</i>, See <i>Shume</i>.<br> +<i>Euphorbium</i> plant, <a href="#p74">74.</a><br> +<i>European</i> merchants at Mogador in danger of being decollated + by order of the emperor, on a charge of high-treason, <a href="#p284">284.</a> </p> + +<h3>F.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Fas</i>, bankrupts, how treated at, <a href="#p16">16.</a> + Is the metropolis of the north, <a href="#p87">87.</a> + Talb Cadus, <a href="#p87">87.</a><br> +----, gold thread manufactured at, of a superior quality, <a href="#p126">126.</a> + Manufactures, various of, <a href="#p126">126.</a><br> +----, houses of the merchants of, described, and gardens at, <a href="#p275">275.</a> + Library at, <a href="#p324">324.</a><br> +<i>Fakeers</i>, or muselmen-saints excite hostility between + Christians and Muhamedans, <a href="#p267">267.</a>.<br> +<i>Fedalla</i>, corn country, <a href="#p110">110.</a><br> +<i>Fig-trees</i>, very large, <a href="#p82">82.</a><br> +<i>Food</i>, <a href="#p316">316.</a> + Food of the desert, <a href="#p349">349.</a><br> +---- of the Arabs similar to that used in the days of Abraham, <a href="#p243">243.</a><br> +<i>Fourban</i>, Comte de, anecdote of, <a href="#p112">112,</a> <a href="#p113">113.</a><br> +<i>Fragments</i>, notes, and anecdotes, <a href="#p276">276.</a><br> +<i>French</i> army, landing of, in Egypt, <a href="#p100">100.</a><br> +<i>Fruits</i> of all kinds abundant at Salee and Rabat, <a href="#p114">114,</a> <a href="#p125">125.</a><br> +<i>Fruga</i>, town of, <a href="#p76">76,</a> <a href="#p78">78.</a></p> + +<h3>G.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Game</i>, plentiful. Not sold in the public market. Custom + on shooting it, <a href="#p338">338.</a> + Strangled, what game so called, <a href="#p338">338.</a><br> +<i>Garrison</i> of Tangier salutes the ambassador, <a href="#p127">127.</a><br> +<i>Garb el</i>, what, so called, <a href="#p2">2.</a><br> +<i>Garden</i>, imperial, the merchants encamped at Marocco in, <a href="#p88">88.</a> + Names and produce of, <a href="#p81">81.</a><br> +<i>Geography</i> of Africa, on the, <a href="#p474">474.</a><br> +<i>George</i> IV. compared to the Emperor Muley Yezzid,<a href="#p287">287.</a> <br> +---- a patron to science and the arts, <a href="#p429">429.</a><br> +<i>Genoa</i>, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, <a href="#p254">254.</a><br> +<i>Girwan ait</i>, or Girwanites, a tribe of Berebbers,<a href="#p124">124.</a> <br> +<i>Gold dust</i>, gold bars, wrought gold, <a href="#p67">67.</a><br> +----, and bars, consignment of, to Fas from Timbuctoo, <a href="#p347">347.</a><br> +<i>Gold thread</i>, superior manufactory of, at Fas, <a href="#p215">215.</a> <br> +----, of a superior quality, manufactured at Fas, <a href="#p126">126.</a><br> +<i>Government</i>, offer to it, to discover the remedy for nyctalopia, <a href="#p335">335.</a><br> +<i>Great Britain</i>, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, <a href="#p255">255.</a><br> +<i>Grored el</i>, or sandy desert of Mogodor, <a href="#p83">83.</a><br> +<i>Gum</i> Sudan, <a href="#p67">67.</a> + Gum Barbary, <a href="#p67">67.</a> + Gum Euphorbium, <a href="#p74">74.</a> + Gum sandrac. Gum ammoniac, <a href="#p67">67.</a><br> +----, called in England, Turkey gum Arabic, <a href="#p345">345.</a><br> +<i>Gun-barrels</i>, manufacture of, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> +<i>Gutta serena</i>, probable remedy for the cure of, <a href="#p335">335,</a> <a href="#p336">336.</a><br> +Galvanism, beneficial in, <a href="#p336">336.</a></p> + +<h3>H.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Hawking</i>, and hunting the boar, sports followed by princes, <a href="#p338">338.</a><br> +<i>Hassûa el</i>, described, <a href="#p242">242.</a><br> +<i>Heirie</i>, Jackson's account of, confirmed by Colonel + Fitzclarence, <a href="#p489">489.</a>.<br> +<i>Hel shual</i>, and Hel elkilleb, what, <a href="#p198">198.</a> + Hel ferdie, what, <a href="#p200">200.</a><br> +<i>Hemeralopia</i>, or night-blindness described, <a href="#p332">332.</a><br> +<i>Henna</i>, an herb with which the Arabian, Moorish, Shelluh, + Berebber, and Jewish women dye their feet, hands, and + hair, and why, <a href="#p512">512.</a><br> +<i>Hire</i> of camels from Akka to Santa Cruz, <a href="#p346">346.</a><br> +<i>Hogan's</i> embassy to the emperor of Marocco, from queen + Elizabeth, <a href="#p489">489.</a><br> + +<i>Honey</i> of Haha, <a href="#p153">153.</a><br> + +<i>Hospitality</i> of the Arabs, cultivators of west and south Barbary, <a href="#p131">131,</a> <a href="#p239">239.</a><br> + +----------, laws of, <a href="#p340">340.</a> Disinterested hospitality shown +to the author, <a href="#p342">342.</a> Inviolability of the laws of, among the +Bedouin Arabs, <a href="#p343">343.</a><br> + +<i>Howara</i>, an Arab clan, take possession of Assouan in +Egypt, <a href="#p74">74.</a><br> + +-------- Arabs, hunting the boar with. They took the city +of Assouan in Egypt, about four centuries ago, <a href="#p245">245.</a><br> + +<i>Houses</i> at Marocco and elsewhere described, <a href="#p274">274.</a><br> + +<i>Housa</i>, travelling there safe, <a href="#p37">37.</a> Great traffic on the Nile +of Sudan. Niles, how denominated, <a href="#p39">39.</a> Description of +the country adjacent to, <a href="#p40">40.</a> Situation and size of the +palace of, and description of the city of, <a href="#p41">41.</a> Government +of; administration of justice at, <a href="#p42">42.</a> Landed property, +<a href="#p43">43.</a> Revenues of; army, <a href="#p44">44.</a> Trade, <a href="#p45">45.</a> Climate, +zoology, diseases, religion, <a href="#p48">48.</a> Persons; dress, +<a href="#p49">49.</a> Buildings; manners, <a href="#p50">50.</a> Gold, <a href="#p51">51.</a> Limits of the +Empire of; pottery; Timbuctoo tributary to it, <a href="#p53">53.</a> +Small-pox, inoculation for, <a href="#p54">54.</a><br> + +<i>Hutton</i>, Catherine, her observations on an intercourse with +Africa, <a href="#p264">264.</a><br> + +<i>Hulacu</i>, the Tartar, conqueror of the east. His letter to +the sultan of Aleppo, <a href="#p399">399.</a><br> + +<i>Hypotheses</i>, various, respecting the Niger, <a href="#p447">447.</a></p> + +<h3>I.(J.)</h3> + +<p><i>Jackson's</i> report corroborated, <a href="#p467">467.</a><br> + +<i>Idautenan</i>, independence of, <a href="#p147">147.</a> Superior grapes of, <a href="#p147">147.</a> +The country described, <a href="#p147">147.</a><br> + +<i>Idiaugomoron</i>, <a href="#p151">151.</a><br> + +<i>Idaultit</i>, customs of, <a href="#p313">313.</a><br> + +<i>Jedrie</i>, the African name for the small-pox in horses, mules, +asses, and oxen, <a href="#p337">337.</a><br> + +<i>Jelabia,</i> garment so called, described, <a href="#p200">200.</a><br> + +<i>Jerf el suffer</i>, the yellow cliff, <a href="#p109">109.</a><br> + +<i>Jew</i>, great present made by one for the privilege of wearing +the European costume, <a href="#p297">297.</a><br> + +<i>Jews</i>, a distinct race from the Africans, rendered so from +their particular laws and customs, &c. <a href="#p230">230.</a><br> +------, funeral cry of, <a href="#p464">464.</a> Funeral ceremonies of, <a href="#p235">235.</a><br> +------, massacre of, at Algiers, <a href="#p283">283.</a> How estimated in the +empire of Marocco, <a href="#p238">238.</a><br> + +<i>Jinnie</i>, manufacture of gold filligrane at, <a href="#p126">126.</a><br> + + +<i>Impediments</i> to our knowledge of Africa. What they +are, <a href="#p266">266.</a><br> + +<i>Inactivity</i>, or want of vigilance severely reprehensible in the +officers of the Marocco government, <a href="#p203">203.</a><br> + +<i>Incorrect</i> orthography of African names, <a href="#p468">468.</a><br> + +<i>Indigo</i> plant, <a href="#p74">74.</a><br> + +<i>Interest</i> of money, <a href="#p237">237.</a>.<br> + +<i>Intercourse</i>, commercial, with Africa, recommended to be +adopted on a grand national scale, <a href="#p249">249,</a> <a href="#p263">263.</a><br> + +<i>Interest</i> of the Arabs of Sahara; how it would be united +with a colony on the coast, <a href="#p248">248.</a><br> + +<i>Information</i> from Africans respecting Africa, not contemptible, +<a href="#p434">434.</a><br> + +<i>Insolvency</i> laws, <a href="#p343">343,</a> <a href="#p397">397.</a><br> + +<i>Intoxication</i>, various modes of, <a href="#p329">329.</a><br> + +<i>Invoice</i> from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, <a href="#p345">345.</a> Ditto from +ditto to Fas, <a href="#p347">347.</a><br> + +<i>Invasion</i> of the country by Christians, a tradition of, <a href="#p225">225.</a><br> + +<i>Invocation</i> for the author's welfare made by the Fakeers of +the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, <a href="#p119">119.</a><br> +---------- for the welfare of the British embassy.<br> + +<i>Journey</i>, in disguise, at a critical period, <a href="#p135">135.</a><br> + +<i>Journies</i>, viz. from Mogodor to Rabat; to Mequinas; to +the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone; and to the ruins of +Pharaoh; through the country of Amorites to L'Araich +and Tangier, <a href="#p105">105.</a><br> + +<i>Irrigation</i>, wheel for, <a href="#p13">13.</a><br> + +<i>Iron</i> mines, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> + +<i>Isa</i> Seedy ben, fascinators of serpents, <a href="#p455">455.</a><br> + +<i>Isawie</i> (fascinators of serpents) their performance, <a href="#p453">453.</a><br> + +<i>Justice</i>, moral, <a href="#p306">306.</a></p> + +<h3>K.</h3> + +<p><i>Kaaba</i>, Muhamed's mausoleum, so called, <a href="#p273">273.</a><br> + +<i>Kadder Khan</i>, king of Turkostan, a great support to +science, <a href="#p352">352.</a><br> + +<i>Kaffer</i>, the application of this term, <a href="#p510">510.</a><br> +------, (or Caffre) its signification, <a href="#p267">267,</a> <a href="#p345">345.</a><br> + +<i>Kassar Kabeer el</i>, a beautiful country, <a href="#p124">124.</a><br> + +<i>Kereb</i>, what, <a href="#p5">5.</a><br> + +<i>Key</i> of Africa is commerce, <a href="#p428">428.</a><br> + +<i>Keyma</i>, its definition, <a href="#p307">307.</a><br> + +<i>Khalif Delemys</i>, noble conduct to the prince Abdsalsm, +<a href="#p288">288.</a><br> + +<i>Kibla</i>, i. e. the tomb of Muhamed, <a href="#p9">9.</a><br> + +<i>Kiffen</i>, signification of, <a href="#p273">273.</a><br> + +<i>King</i> George IV. compared to the late emperor of Marocco, +Muley Yezzid, <a href="#p287">287.</a> A patron to science and +the arts, <a href="#p429">429.</a><br> + +<i>Kitiwa ait</i>, or Kituvites, a tribe of Berebbers, <a href="#p124">124.</a><br> + +<i>Koba</i>, or coba, <a href="#p88">88.</a><br> + +<i>Koran</i>, called the beloved book. Etymology of the word, +<a href="#p318">318.</a> Incorrectly called the Alcoran, l'Alcoran, or il Alcorano, +<a href="#p351">351.</a> Written in good language, <a href="#p353">353.</a></p> + +<h3>L.</h3> + +<p><i>L'âad</i> of the Arabs described, <a href="#p289">289.</a><br> + +<i>Language</i>, etiquette of, at the court of Marocco, <a href="#p315">315.</a><br> + +<i>Languages</i> of Africa, <a href="#p355">355.</a><br> + +<i>L'Araich</i>, forest of. Ferry of, <a href="#p125">125.</a><br> + +<i>Laws</i> of insolvency, <a href="#p343">343.</a><br> + +<i>Lead</i> mines, <a href="#p331">331.</a> Lead-ore mines, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> + +<i>Leather</i> superior manufactory of, at Mequinas and Marocco, +<a href="#p217">217.</a> Articles used in the manufacture of leather, <a href="#p218">218.</a><br> + +<i>Leghorn</i>, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, <a href="#p255">255.</a><br> + +<i>Leper's</i> town or village near Marocco, <a href="#p90">90.</a> Mendicant +lepers, <a href="#p91">91.</a><br> + +<i>Library</i> at Fas, <a href="#p324">324.</a><br> + +<i>Lions</i>, country abounding in. Mode of destroying them. +Preservation against, <a href="#p115">115.</a><br> + +<i>Liquorice</i> root, abundant in Suse, <a href="#p74">74_.</a><br> + +<i>Locusts</i>, their incredible devastation described, <a href="#p221">221.</a> Mode +of collecting them, <a href="#p222">222.</a> Used as food; method of +preparing them; much esteemed as food, <a href="#p222">222.</a> Remarkable +instance of these insects having devoured every +blade of grass south of the river Elkos, but not north of +that river, <a href="#p223">223.</a><br> + +<i>Love</i>, Arabian definition of, <a href="#p363">363.</a><br> + +<i>Loyalty</i> of the sheiks of Suse, <a href="#p288">288.</a> Of Muhamedans, +<a href="#p326">326.</a><br> + +<i>Ludaia</i> are not Ludama, <a href="#p507">507.</a><br> + +<i>Lybia</i> palus and sea of Sudan synonymous, <a href="#p448">448.</a></p> + +<h3>M.</h3> + +<p><i>Majesty</i>, His, George IV. patron of science and the arts, +<a href="#p429">429.</a> Compared to the late emperor Yezzid, <a href="#p287">287.</a><br> + +<i>Mandinga</i> language compared with the Arabic, <a href="#p373">373.</a><br> + +<i>Manufactures</i> of Fas; superior manufacture of gold-thread +there, <a href="#p214">214.</a><br> + +<i>Marabets</i>, what, <a href="#p511">511.</a><br> + +<i>Marabet</i>, punishment of one, <a href="#p524">524.</a><br> + +<i>Market</i> called Soke Elkhummes, <a href="#p94">94.</a><br> + +<i>Marocco</i>, emperor's march to, <a href="#p73">73.</a> Country abundant in +corn of a superior quality, <a href="#p78">78.</a> Reception at salutations +of the Moors, <a href="#p78">78.</a> Gate called Beb el Lushoir; its situation, +<a href="#p78">78.</a> Garden of the Nile, an imperial garden, <a href="#p79">79.</a> +Tafilelt rose flourishes at Marocco; its powerful perfume; +otto of roses, <a href="#p79">79.</a> Roses; various flowers abundant; +Persian wheel in general use throughout the country, <a href="#p82">82.</a> +Divisions of the empire of, <a href="#p86">86.</a> The summer residence +of the emperor, <a href="#p86">86.</a> The metropolis of the south, <a href="#p87">87.</a> +Town or village of lepers at, <a href="#p90">90.</a> Policy of concealing +the appearance of wealth at, <a href="#p95">95.</a> Furniture of houses at, +<a href="#p95">95.</a> Customs at, <a href="#p95">95.</a> All trades carried on at, <a href="#p98">98.</a><br> +--------, etiquete of the court of, <a href="#p310">310.</a> Emperor dispenses +with, <a href="#p311">311.</a><br> + +<i>Marseilles</i>, its commerce indirectly with Timbuctoo, <a href="#p254">254.</a><br> + +<i>Massacre</i> of the Jews at Algiers, <a href="#p283">283.</a><br> + +<i>Matamores</i>, what, <a href="#p14">14,</a> <a href="#p195">195.</a><br> + +<i>Matra</i>, J.M., his excellency the British ambassador, treated +by the emperor like a prince, <a href="#p128">128.</a><br> +--------, his intelligence respecting vaccine pus, <a href="#p237">237.</a><br> + +<i>Mauritannick</i> writing, what, <a href="#p351">351.</a><br> + +<i>Mazagan</i>, <a href="#p109">109.</a> Country of, and inhabitants described, +<a href="#p109">109.</a><br> + +<i>Mekka</i> caravan, i. <a href="#p4">4.</a><br> + +<i>Mendicant</i> lepers, their exclamation, <a href="#p91">91.</a><br> + +<i>Mensoria el</i>, <a href="#p110">110.</a><br> + +<i>Mequinas</i>, city of the court-town; travelling, mode of; <a href="#p88">88.</a> +Imperial palace at, <a href="#p117">117.</a> Beauty of the ladies of, <a href="#p118">118.</a><br> +--------, superior leather and shoes made at, <a href="#p98">98.</a><br> + +<i>Merchandize</i>, consignment of, from Timbuctoo to Fas, <a href="#p348">348.</a><br> +----------, the various, the produce of Sudan, <a href="#p256">256.</a><br> + +<i>Messa</i>, visit to the port of, <a href="#p145">145.</a> Gold and silver mines of, +<a href="#p146">146.</a><br> + +<i>Minister's</i> house at Marocco, a noble one, <a href="#p90">90.</a><br> +-------- suggestions recommended to their attention, <a href="#p230">230.</a><br> + +<i>Mitfere</i>, or cistern, magnificent, at Mazagan, <a href="#p109">109.</a><br> + +<i>Mitferes</i>, what, <a href="#p90">90.</a> Expediency of, <a href="#p210">210.</a><br> +--------, described, magazines for grain, <a href="#p339">339.</a> Custom +observed when opened, <a href="#p339">339.</a><br> + +<i>Mogodor</i>, duties at, doubled, <a href="#p74">74.</a> Merchants of, present +themselves to the emperor, <a href="#p87">87.</a><br> +--------, duties at, reduced to the old standard through +the influence of Muley Abd el Melk ben Dris, <a href="#p128">128.</a><br> +-------- merchants in danger of being beheaded, <a href="#p284">284.</a><br> + +<i>Monopodia</i> of the ancients compared to a Moorish table, <a href="#p281">281.</a><br> +<i>Months</i>, or moons, Muhamedan, their names, <a href="#p371">371.</a><br> +<i>Money</i>, interest of, <a href="#p237">237.</a><br> +<i>Moors</i>, <a href="#p1">4.</a><br> +---------, their language and residence, <a href="#p327">327.</a><br> +<i>Moorish</i> grace at meals, <a href="#p96">96.</a><br> +----------customs, <a href="#p281">281.</a><br> +<i>Morbeya</i>, river of, divides the northern from the southern + division of the empire, <a href="#p86">86.</a><br> +<i>'Msharrah</i> Rummellah, plains of, <a href="#p124">124.</a> + Described, <a href="#p195">195.</a><br> +<i>'Mtasseb</i>, what, <a href="#p126">126.</a><br> +<i>Muden</i>, what, <a href="#p111">111.</a><br> +<i>Muhamedan</i> princes, treaties with, <a href="#p283">283.</a><br> +--------------loyalty, <a href="#p326">326.</a><br> +--------------, their claims to hospitality, <a href="#p341">341.</a><br> +--------------customs, <a href="#p349">349.</a><br> +<i>Mules</i>, not used in the desert, <a href="#p5">5.</a><br> +<i>Muley</i> Abdsalam's domain in the oasis of Ammon, <a href="#p280">280.</a><br> +--------Yezzid, the emperor, compared to his Majesty, George IV., <a href="#p287">287.</a><br> +---------Abdrahaman, anecdote of, <a href="#p322">322.</a><br> +---------Ismael, anecdote of, <a href="#p323">323.</a><br> +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to captain Kirke at + Tangier, ambassador from Charles II,, dated A.D. 1682. <a href="#p384">384.</a><br> +---------Ismael, his letter to sir Cloudesly Shovel at Salée, <a href="#p387">387.</a> + Sir Cloudesly's answer, <a href="#p389">389.</a><br> +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to queen Anne, <a href="#p392">392.</a><br> +---------Yezzid, emperor of Marocco, his letter to the + Dutch consul, <a href="#p402">402.</a><br> +---------Ismael's, emperor, gold coins at Timbuctoo, <a href="#p522">522.</a><br> +---------Hamed, son of Muley Moluck, an account of his + expedition to Timbuctoo, &c. <a href="#p519">519.</a><br> +---------Sidan, loses 3000 Arabic books, <a href="#p520">520.</a><br> +<i>Muley El Arsheed</i>, his expedition to Timbuctoo, <a href="#p521">521.</a><br> +<i>Muley Hamed Dehebby</i>, commonly called Deiby, his expedition + to Timbuctoo, <a href="#p523">523.</a><br> +<i>Mungo</i> Park at Timbuctoo, <a href="#p319">319.</a><br> +<i>Murder</i>, punishment for, <a href="#p343">343.</a><br> +<i>Mushoir</i>, or place of audience, <a href="#p89">89.</a><br> +<i>Music</i>, and Arab dance, <a href="#p141">141.</a></p> + +<h3>N.</h3> + +<p><i>Nasari</i>, the application of the term, <a href="#p510">510.</a><br> + +<i>Nassar</i>, Abdrahaman Ben, the bashaw of Abda, interview +with, <a href="#p136">136.</a>.<br> + +<i>Nations</i>, the respective costumes of, enjoined, <a href="#p296">296.</a>.<br> + +<i>Negro</i> languages, thirty-three different ones spoken, <a href="#p370">370.</a><br> + +<i>Negroes</i>, opinion respecting, 466. Mental degradation of, +imputable, in some measure, to the cruel treatment of +them in the West India islands, <a href="#p466">466.</a><br> + +<i>Neel</i>, a name applied to two rivers in Africa only, <a href="#p507">507.</a><br> + +<i>Nile</i>, at Kabra, its width, <a href="#p471">471.</a><br> + +----, the correct orthography in English is Neel, <a href="#p79">79.</a><br> + +<i>Niger</i>, contemplated result of the discovery of its course and +termination, <a href="#p99">99.</a> Opinion concerning its course, <a href="#p103">103.</a> +Nile el Kabeer, Nile Assudan, synonymous with Niger, +<a href="#p201">201.</a><br> + +----, or Nile of Sudan, discharges itself in a lake, <a href="#p449">449.</a><br> + +------ and the Nile, <a href="#p515">515.</a> Theory respecting, <a href="#p515">515.</a> The +author's opinion of this river never varied, <a href="#p516">516.</a><br> + +------ or Neel el Abeed, discharges itself into the Mediterranean +sea at the Delta, in Egypt, <a href="#p518">518.</a><br> + +<i>Nile</i>, this word is improperly spelled, <a href="#p507">507.</a><br> + +<i>Niles</i>, anticipation of the confirmation of their junction, <a href="#p434">434.</a><br> + +<i>Nile</i> Abid, or Neel el Abeed, error respecting its situation, +<a href="#p435">435.</a><br> + +<i>Niles</i>, junction of, where supposed to take place, <a href="#p444">444.</a> Not +doubted in Africa, but supported by the general testimony +of the natives, <a href="#p445">445.</a><br> + +<i>Nile</i>, the word applied only to two rivers in Africa, <a href="#p447">447.</a><br> + +<i>Nishki</i>, manner of writing, <a href="#p350">350.</a> Synonymous with the +Kufie.<br> + + +<i>Nyctalopia</i>, or night-blindness, <a href="#p332">332.</a><br> + +----------, description of, and remedy, +<a href="#p432">432.</a> Offer to discover the remedy, <a href="#p432">432.</a><br> + +----------, an ophthalmia, that affects our seamen in the +Mediterranean, <a href="#p433">433.</a> Offer to discover the remedy for +to government, <a href="#p433">433.</a></p> + +<h3>O.</h3> + +<p><i>Oasis</i>, western, <a href="#p280">280.</a><br> + +<i>Oil</i> of olives, <a href="#p67">67.</a> Oil organic, <a href="#p91">91.</a><br> + +<i>Olive</i> plantations of Ras el Wed, <a href="#p77">77.</a><br> + +<i>Ophthalmia</i>, disorders at Marocco prevail among the Jews, +<a href="#p92">92.</a><br> + +<i>Opinions</i> of the Africans respecting Jews, Christians, and + themselves, <a href="#p315">315.</a><br> +<i>Oranges</i> of Rabat, superior in quality, and low in price, <a href="#p114">114.</a><br> +<i>Oranges</i>, <a href="#p75">75.</a> + Orange-trees, very large, <a href="#p82">82.</a><br> +<i>Ostrich's</i> feathers, <a href="#p67">67.</a><br> +<i>Ostriches</i> presented by the Emperor Muley Ismael to Queen + Anne, <a href="#p393">393.</a></p> + +<h3>P.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Palace</i>, imperial, at Tafileet, magnificent, <a href="#p80">80.</a><br> +<i>Palaces</i> described, <a href="#p274">274.</a> + Architecture of, <a href="#p274">274.</a><br> +<i>Partridges</i>, mode of hunting among the Arabs, <a href="#p107">107.</a><br> +<i>Park</i>, Mungo, at Timbuctoo, <a href="#p319">319.</a><br> +----, his arrival at Timbuctoo confirmed, <a href="#p470">470.</a><br> +----, the author's translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of that traveller's death, <a href="#p409">409.</a> + Mr. Abraham Saleme's translation of the same document, <a href="#p413">413.</a><br> +<i>Persian</i>, or Arabian wheel described, mode of irrigation, <a href="#p147">147.</a><br> +<i>Pharaoh</i>, ruins of, <a href="#p80">80,</a> <a href="#p121">121.</a><br> +<i>Philanthropists</i> dig wells for public accommodation, <a href="#p150">150.</a><br> +<i>Physicians</i> fly at the approach of the plague, <a href="#p165">165.</a><br> +<i>Piracy</i>, if the slave-trade were made piracy it would not + abolish the traffic, <a href="#p270">270.</a><br> +<i>Plague</i>, fragments respecting, <a href="#p156">156.</a> + Progress of, <a href="#p157">157.</a> + Decrease, <a href="#p161">161.</a> + The plague political, <a href="#p164">164.</a> + Emperor's minister attacked by it, writes to the British consul + for advice, <a href="#p165">165.</a><br> +----, supposed origin of, <a href="#p166">166.</a> + The author an eye-witness of it, and visited the infected, <a href="#p167">167.</a> + Progress of, <a href="#p167">167.</a> + Remarkable instance of a village in the neighbourhood of + Mogador being free from the epidemy thirty-four days + after it appeared at Mogador, although the communication + was open between the two places, <a href="#p168">168.</a> + Haha, destruction in, by the plague, <a href="#p169">169.</a> + Peculiarities of, <a href="#p169">169.</a> + Destruction of the plague in Suse, <a href="#p169">169.</a> + General depopulation caused by it, <a href="#p170">170.</a> + Consequences of, on the survivors, <a href="#p171">171.</a> + Gradations in society overturned by the plague, <a href="#p171">171.</a> + Emigrations from Sahara consequent to the plague, <a href="#p172">172.</a> + Symptoms, various of, <a href="#p173">173.</a> + Olive oil, external application of, infallible, supposed origin + of, <a href="#p174">174.</a> + Superstitious opinion respecting the plague, <a href="#p175">175.</a> + Author's precaution against, <a href="#p177">177.</a> + Fear, its effect in communicating the infection, <a href="#p178">178.</a> + Remedies used, <a href="#p178">178.</a> +How caught, <a href="#p179">179.</a> Plague cases of, <a href="#p180">180.</a><br> + +<i>Plague</i>, avoided, by adhering to the principle of avoiding +personal contact and inhalation, <a href="#p189">189.</a> Olive oil, infallible +remedy for, <a href="#p189">189.</a><br> + +------, <a href="#p419">419.</a> Remedy for, <a href="#p423">423.</a><br> + +<i>Plough</i>, primitive, used by the Arabs, <a href="#p511">511.</a><br> + +<i>Pomegranates</i>, <a href="#p75">75.</a><br> + +<i>Policy</i> of the court of Marocco, <a href="#p211">211,</a> <a href="#p212">212,</a> <a href="#p280">280.</a><br> + +------ adopted by the emperor to secure the allegiance of +the Berebbers, <a href="#p306">306.</a><br> + +------ of West Barbary, <a href="#p320">320.</a><br> + +<i>Poculum amicitiæ</i>, goblet compared to, <a href="#p232">232.</a><br> + +<i>Political</i> economy of the emperor, in not going to war with +Algiers, <a href="#p283">283.</a><br> + +-------- deception, <a href="#p309">309,</a> <a href="#p314">314.</a><br> + +<i>Portugal</i>, sovereign of, his zeal in converting the Africans to +the Christian doctrine, <a href="#p443">443.</a><br> + +<i>Portuguese</i> penetrated far into West Barbary, <a href="#p324">324.</a><br> + +<i>Portfolio</i>, monthly miscellany, observations on, <a href="#p464">464.</a><br> + +<i>Precision</i>, unfavourable to truth, according to Mungo Park's +annotator, <a href="#p446">446.</a><br> + +<i>Present</i> to the emperor, etiquette of delivering it, presentation +to, <a href="#p89">89.</a><br> + +------ received from the emperor, <a href="#p98">98.</a><br> + +<i>Prince</i>, Muley Teib, conduct of, to Dr. Bell. Satisfied with +the doctor's medicines, <a href="#p197">197.</a><br> + +<i>Property</i>, agricultural division of, <a href="#p330">330.</a><br> + +<i>Prognosticated</i> prosperity from the prayers of benediction of +the marabats or fakeers of the sanctuary of Muley Dris +Zerone.<br> + +<i>Prostration</i> practised at the court of Marocco, <a href="#p281">281.</a><br> + +<i>Protection</i> among the Arabs a sacred duty when claimed, +<a href="#p343">343.</a><br> + +<i>Punishment</i> for murder, <a href="#p343">343.</a><br> + +<i>Pyramidical</i> basis on which is founded the intelligence in +Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c., <a href="#p451">451.</a></p> + +<h3>Q.</h3> + +<p><i>Quarterly</i> journal, of literature, science, and the arts, +error of, <a href="#p435">435,</a> <a href="#p438">438.</a><br> + +<i>Queen</i> Elizabeth, embassy to the emperor of Marocco, +<a href="#p494">494.</a></p> + +<h3>R.</h3> + +<p><i>Rabat</i>, arrival at, <a href="#p110">110.</a> Town described. Aqueduct. Mausoleum +of the Sultan Muhamed at, described. Battery + of, bomb-proof. Bastions. Roman spring at. Old Roman + town of Sheila at, described. Old Roman coins, <a href="#p111">111.</a> + Mosques, tower of Hassan, similar to one at Timbuctoo, + &c. described, <a href="#p112">112.</a><br> +<i>Rabat</i> and Salee, abundant countries, <a href="#p113">113.</a><br> +<i>Religions</i>, of all kinds, tolerated at Timbuctoo.<br> +<i>Repast</i>, or dinner, sent by the prince Muley Teib, <a href="#p192">192.</a><br> +<i>Retaliation</i> for murder, an incumbent duty on tha individuals + of a family, <a href="#p295">295.</a><br> +<i>Revenge</i> of the Shelluhs, described, <a href="#p152">152.</a><br> +-------- of the Shelluhs for murder rigidly pursued, <a href="#p291">291.</a><br> +<i>Richardson</i>, incorrect in calling the Arabic guttural letter, + <i>grain</i>, ghain, <a href="#p492">492.</a><br> +<i>Richardson's</i> Arabic grammar, some errors in, <a href="#p351">351.</a><br> +<i>Riches</i> of the Arabs, in what it consists, <a href="#p247">247.</a><br> +<i>Rivers</i>, in sandy districts, change their courses, <a href="#p440">440.</a><br> +<i>Robbery</i>, singular mode of, <a href="#p116">116.</a><br> +<i>Rontgen</i>, African traveller, death of, <a href="#p425">425.</a></p> + +<h3> +S.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Santa Cruz</i>, the port of, delivered to the Dutch, <a href="#p403">403.</a><br> +--------, See <i>Agadeer</i>.<br> +-------, or Agadeer, the key to Sudan, <a href="#p268">268.</a><br> +-------, invoice from Timbuctoo to, <a href="#p345">345.</a><br> +------- opened to Dutch commerce by the author, <a href="#p436">436.</a><br> +<i>Sanctuary</i> of Muley Dris Zerone, <a href="#p80">80.</a><br> +<i>Saffy</i>, its road for shipping described, <a href="#p108">108.</a> + Situation and description of, <a href="#p108">108.</a><br> +<i>Sahara</i>, north part described, no water, <a href="#p4">4.</a> + South part described, <a href="#p7">7.</a> + Water carried in goat-skins, <a href="#p5">5.</a> + Sheiks of, independent.<br> +--------, Arabs of, prefer sleeping in the open air, <a href="#p155">155.</a><br> +<i>Salee</i>, dungeon of, for Christian captives, <a href="#p114">114.</a><br> +------ and Rabat, the adjacent country productive, <a href="#p113">113.</a><br> +<i>Salutations</i>, peculiar character of their, <a href="#p235">235.</a><br> +<i>Saneet Urtemma</i>, a dangerous country, <a href="#p110">110.</a><br> +<i>Sand</i> baths, <a href="#p279">279.</a><br> +<i>Science</i> and the arts, decay of, among the Arabs, <a href="#p352">352.</a><br> +<i>Sebu</i>, river, situation of, <a href="#p438">438.</a><br> +<i>Sejin Messa</i>, etymology of the name, vulgarly called + Segilmessa, <a href="#p145">145.</a><br> +<i>Senegambia</i>, <a href="#p70">70.</a><br> +<i>Serpents</i>, charmers of, described, <a href="#p430">430.</a><br> +--------, domestic, of Marocco, <a href="#p213">213.</a><br> +<i>Servants</i> of the emperor, policy of, <a href="#p280">280.</a><br> +<i>Shegar</i>, signification of, and misinterpretation, <a href="#p441">441.</a><br> +<i>Sheh</i>, the Arabic name for worm-seed, <a href="#p5">5.</a><br> +------, the plant designated, <a href="#p510">510.</a><br> +<i>Shella</i>, an old Roman town, <a href="#p112">112.</a><br> +<i>Shelluh</i>, revenge of, described, <a href="#p152">152.</a><br> +------ repast, described. Patriarchal cakes of, <a href="#p153">153.</a> + Customs of, <a href="#p154">154,</a> <a href="#p313">313.</a><br> +------ language, specimen of, <a href="#p366">366.</a><br> +<i>Shelluhs</i>, revenge and retaliation, <a href="#p291">291.</a><br> +------, their territory described, <a href="#p327">327.</a><br> +<i>Sheshawa</i>, plains of, <a href="#p82">82.</a> + Mountains of, strata of oyster-shells at the top of, <a href="#p82">82.</a> + River of, <a href="#p82">82.</a><br> +<i>Shume el</i>, the hot wind of Sahara so denominated, <a href="#p5">5.</a><br> +<i>Shoemaker</i>, an honourable trade, <a href="#p98">98.</a><br> +<i>Shovel</i>, Sir Cloudesley, his letter to the emperor of Marocco. +<i>Sigen Messa</i>, face of that country, <a href="#p81">81.</a><br> +<i>Silver</i> mines of Elala, <a href="#p218">218.</a><br> +------ mine, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> +<i>Siwah</i>, language of, similar to the Shelluh, <a href="#p370">370.</a><br> +<i>Slavery</i>, state of, in Africa, <a href="#p219">219.</a> + Cannot be abolished but by commerce, <a href="#p269">269.</a><br> +<i>Slaves</i>, mode of selling them, <a href="#p95">95.</a><br> +<i>Slave</i> trade, not to be abolished by any naval force however + formidable, <a href="#p269">269.</a><br> +<i>South</i> Africa, policy of constructing mitferes there, <a href="#p339">339.</a> +How that colony might be improved in the value of its + produce, <a href="#p340">340.</a><br> +----------, colony of, policy and expediency of building + mitferes there, <a href="#p339">339.</a> + How to improve that colony, <a href="#p340">340.</a><br> +<i>Storks</i>, abundance of, at Azamore, <a href="#p110">110.</a><br> +<i>Style</i> used in addressing the emperor, <a href="#p383">383.</a><br> +<i>Subterraneous</i> hordes, propensity to, <a href="#p238">238.</a><br> +<i>Sudan</i>, gum of, <a href="#p67">67.</a><br> +------, trade with, <a href="#p277">277.</a><br> +------ company, plan for one, <a href="#p251">251.</a><br> +------, command of the commerce of, how to be obtained, <a href="#p67">67.</a><br> +------ produce of, <a href="#p67">67.</a><br> +<i>Sugar</i>, figurative of friendship, <a href="#p234">234.</a><br> +<i>Sulphur</i> mines, <a href="#p331">331.</a><br> +<i>Sultan</i> Muhamed's letter to the European consuls, <a href="#p394">394.</a> + To the governor of Mogodor, <a href="#p405">405.</a><br> +-------- Soliman's letter to his majesty George III., <a href="#p395">395.</a><br> +<i>Superstitious</i> tradition, <a href="#p460">460.</a><br> +<i>Suse</i>, province of, inaccessible to an invading army from + the north, <a href="#p76">76.</a><br> +<i>Synonymous</i> words in sound, <a href="#p362">362.</a>.</p> + +<h3>T.</h3> + +<p><i>Tabia</i> walls, what, <a href="#p2">2.</a> Mode of building them.<br> + +<i>Tafilelt</i>, <a href="#p1">1.</a> A rendezvous for caravans; kassars of; hire of +camels from Fas to; a country of princes, <a href="#p2">2.</a> Market +at, <a href="#p2">2.</a> Palace, imperial, magnificent at, <a href="#p80">80.</a> Dates +abundant at, <a href="#p80">80.</a> Magnificent plantations and extensive +forests of, <a href="#p81">81.</a> Faith and honour of the natives proverbial; +robberies unknown there, <a href="#p81">81.</a><br> + +<i>Talleyrand</i>, his favourite African scheme, <a href="#p229">229.</a><br> + +<i>Talh-tree</i> defined, <a href="#p510">510.</a><br> + +<i>Tangier</i> garrison, salute to the British ambassador on his +entry there, <a href="#p127">127.</a><br> + +<i>Tas</i>, what it is, <a href="#p231">231.</a><br> + +<i>Tatta</i>, a depôt for camels, <a href="#p248">248.</a><br> + +<i>Tendaraman</i>, venomous spider described, <a href="#p429">429</a><br> + +<i>Tensift</i>, river of, <a href="#p108">108.</a><br> + +<i>Tildie</i>, repast, Arab, at; Portuguese tower at, <a href="#p63">63.</a> Cookery +of the Arabs at, <a href="#p64">64.</a><br> + +<i>Timbuctoo</i>, situation of, and charge of travelling to, <a href="#p7">7.</a> +City of; river close to it, <a href="#p8">8.</a> Population of; extent of; +caravanseras of; slaves at, <a href="#p10">10.</a> Houses; government, <a href="#p11">11.</a> +Revenue of, <a href="#p12">12.</a> Moors pay no duty at, but negroes +do, <a href="#p14">14.</a> Subject to Housa, <a href="#p14">14.</a> Army of; subsidies; +administration of justice at; punishments, <a href="#p15">15.</a> Good +police of, <a href="#p16">16.</a> Insolvent debtors at; slaves entitled to +freedom at; property, succession to and distribution of; +rational treatment of slaves at; wills not written, <a href="#p18">18.</a> +Laws of inheritance; marriage; rape; adultery, <a href="#p19">19.</a> +Trade and articles sold at, <a href="#p20">20.</a> Manufactures, <a href="#p23">23.</a> Measures, +<a href="#p23">23.</a> Husbandry, <a href="#p24">24_.</a> Sowing season; provisions, <a href="#p25">25.</a> +Animals; birds, <a href="#p26">26.</a> Fish; prices of various articles, <a href="#p27">27.</a> +Costume, <a href="#p28">28.</a> Diversions, <a href="#p31">31.</a> Time, measurement of; +Religion, <a href="#p32">32.</a> Diseases, <a href="#p33">33.</a> Manners and customs, <a href="#p34">34.</a> +Neighbouring nations, <a href="#p35">35.</a><br> +--------, opportunity of opening a trade with, why declined, +<a href="#p145">145.</a><br> +--------, how likely to be made tributary to Great +Britain, <a href="#p249">249.</a> Circuitous commerce of, explained, <a href="#p256">256.</a> +Direct and eligible route to, through Sahara from the +shores of the Atlantic Ocean, <a href="#p257">257.</a><br> +--------, value of merchandize at, <a href="#p260">260.</a> Immense profit +actually made in, <a href="#p261">261.</a> Immense quantities of gold +to be procured from Sudan, <a href="#p261">261.</a> Goods entering the +city at the gate of the desert pay no duty, <a href="#p263">263.</a> Timbuctoo +coffee, <a href="#p179">179.</a> Invoice from, <a href="#p345">345,</a> <a href="#p347">347.</a> Letter from, +<a href="#p346">346,</a> <a href="#p348">348.</a><br> + +<i>Timbuctoo</i>, Mungo Park at, <a href="#p319">319.</a><br> +----------, warehouses of, contain the manufactures, of India + and Europe, <a href="#p427">427.</a> + Communication with, plan for opening, <a href="#p428">428.</a><br> +----------, intelligence respecting, whence derived, <a href="#p436">436.</a><br> +----------, cotton manufacture, made in the city of, interwoven + with silk, of a chequered pattern, deposited in the + British Museum, <a href="#p437">437.</a> + Situation of, in respect to the Neel el abeed, <a href="#p439">439.</a> + Under the sovereignty of a negro prince, <a href="#p441">441.</a> + Fish at, resembling salmon, <a href="#p469">469.</a><br> +-------- first expedition to and conquest of, <a href="#p519">519.</a><br> +-------- second expedition to, <a href="#p521">521.</a><br> +-------- third expedition to, <a href="#p523">523.</a><br> +<i>Titles</i> of emperor, <a href="#p382">382.</a><br> +<i>Togreda</i>, ceremony of, how performed, <a href="#p231">231.</a><br> +<i>Tomie</i>, or Sebah Biure, port of; the author visits it by the + prince's request, <a href="#p138">138.</a> + Arab dance and festivity in the neighbourhood of, <a href="#p141">141.</a> + Music of, <a href="#p140">140.</a><br> +<i>Trade</i> with Sudan, <a href="#p277">277.</a><br> +<i>Travellers</i>, solitary or scientific, little expectations from, + <a href="#p258">258.</a><br> +<i>Travelling</i> in Barbary, <a href="#p293">293.</a><br> +<i>Treaties</i> with Muhamedan princes, <a href="#p283">283.</a><br> +<i>Troglodyte</i>, <a href="#p319">319.</a></p> + +<h3>U.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Uffran</i>, a depôt for camels, 248. +<i>Uly</i> and Ualy, material difference between these two terms,350. +<i>Unity</i> among Christians a necessary prelude to the conversion + of Africa. The several sects of Christians should + unite, instead of being divided, as an expedient measure + necessary to precede the conversion of Africa, 129. +<i>Union</i> of waters between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 447.</p> + +<h3>V.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Vaccination</i>, intelligence transmitted from West Barbary + instrumental in the propagation of, <a href="#p337">337.</a> + 23,134 lives saved by vaccination, <a href="#p338">338.</a><br> +<i>Vasco de Gama's</i> observations on intercourse with Africa, <a href="#p258">258.</a><br> +<i>Vincent</i>, Lord St. his message to the Emperor of Marocco, <a href="#p459">459.</a><br> +<i>Vines</i>, the grapes of which are of an extraordinary size, <a href="#p74">74.</a></p> + +<h3>W.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Water</i> communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, <a href="#p443">443.</a> + This opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornmann, <a href="#p444">444.</a><br> +------ communication between Cairo and Timbuctoo, the + opinion respecting, receives additional confirmation, <a href="#p517">517.</a><br> +------ melons at Salee and Rabat peculiarly sweet, <a href="#p114">114.</a><br> +------ carried through the Sahara in goat's skins.<br> +<i>Wah el</i>, what, <a href="#p6">6.</a><br> +<i>Wahs</i> of Sahara, how supplied with fish, <a href="#p257">257.</a> + Western oasis, <a href="#p280">280.</a><br> +<i>Wangara</i>, jewel from, <a href="#p103">103.</a><br> +<i>Wassenah</i>, or Massenah, conjecture why not known at + Ashantee, <a href="#p491">491.</a><br> +<i>Wed el fees</i>, river of, <a href="#p82">82.</a><br> +<i>Whedinoon</i>, a depôt for camels. +<i>Wheat</i>, superior at Marocco, <a href="#p95">95.</a><br> +------, a superior kind or quality, <a href="#p125">125.</a><br> +<i>Wild</i> myrtle grows in the Sahara, <a href="#p6">6.</a><br> +<i>Wine</i> Company recommended, <a href="#p212">212.</a><br> +<i>Woled Aisah</i>, encampment of Arabs. Produce of that country, <a href="#p109">109.</a><br> +<i>Wool</i>, exportation of, granted by the emperor.<br> +<i>Woladia el</i>, an eligible place for a naval depôt, <a href="#p108">108.</a><br> +<i>Woolja</i>, not Woolga, <a href="#p109">109.</a><br> +<i>Woled Abbusebah</i>, a whole clan of Arabs, banished from the + plains near Marocco, and plundered, killed or dispersed, <a href="#p318">318.</a><br> +<i>Woolo</i>, king of Timbuctoo, <a href="#p484">484.</a><br> +<i>Wormseed</i>, <a href="#p74">74.</a><br> +<i>Wrecked ships</i>, <a href="#p277">277.</a> + How treated, <a href="#p278">278.</a> + Wrecked sailors, <a href="#p279">279.</a><br> +<i>Wyk</i>, Sir Pieter, Swedish consul, his courier sent to the + author, <a href="#p127">127.</a></p> + +<h3>Y.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Yezzid Muley</i>, gives the port of Santa Cruz to the Dutch, <a href="#p436">436.</a><br> +----------, emperor of Marocco, compared to his majesty + George the Fourth, <a href="#p287">287.</a> + His letter to the Dutch consul, <a href="#p402">402.</a> + His letter to the governor of Mogador, giving to the Dutch the + port of Santa Cruz, <a href="#p402">402.</a></p> + +<h3>Z.</h3> + +<p><i>Zealand</i>, New, customs of, compared to those of the Jews, +<a href="#p236">236.</a><br> + +<i>Zeal</i> of Mohamedans not sufficient to convert the negro nations +of Africa, <a href="#p442">442.</a><br> + +<i>Zeef</i>, what it is, <a href="#p231">231.</a><br> + +<i>Zemurh ait's</i>, or Zemurhites, a kabyl of Berebbers, <a href="#p115">115.</a><br> + +<i>Zion ait's</i>, or Zianites, a tribe, or kabyl of Berebbers, <a href="#p124">124.</a><br> + +<i>Ziltanait</i>, or Ziltanites, a tribe of Berebbers, <a href="#p124">124.</a><br> + +<i>Zimurh</i> shelluh, Berebbers of, their character, <a href="#p284">284.</a></p> +<br> + + +<p class="mid">THE END.</p> +<br> + +<p> +Printed by A. and K. Spottiswoode,<br> +Printers-Street, London.</p> + +<br> + +<hr class="short"> + +<br> + +<p class="mid"> +<i>Works by the same Author</i>.</p> + +<p>An account of the EMPIRE OF MAROCCO and the +DISTRICTS OF SUSE AND TAFILELT, compiled from +Miscellaneous Observations made during a long residence in, +and various Journies through, these Countries;</p> + +<p class="mid">TO WHICH IS ADDED,</p> + +<p>An Account of <span class="sc">Shipwrecks on the Western Coast +of Africa</span>, and an Account of Timbuctoo, the great Emporium +of Central Africa; illustrated with <span class="sc">Accurate +Maps</span> and a variety of highly finished <span class="sc">Plates</span>. Third +edition. <i>Considerably enlarged with new and interesting +matter</i>.</p> + +<p>Sold by Cadell and Davies, London; and by W. Blackwood, +Edinburgh.</p> + +<br> + +<hr class="short"> + +<br> + +<p class="mid"> +<i>Preparing for the press</i>.</p> + +<p class="mid">A GRAMMAR OF THE ARABIC LANGUAGE.</p> + +<p> +No accurate Grammar of the Arabic Language has ever +yet issued from the British Press!--It is extraordinary that +the many professors of <i>that bold and figurative language of +the East</i>, have never yet favoured the public with such a +desirable work.--An attempt will now be made, by the +above author, to supply in England this deficiency in +Oriental Literature.</p> + +<br><br> + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Af, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + +***** This file should be named 22631-h.htm or 22631-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/6/3/22631/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Rénald Lévesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Africa, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa Territories in the Interior of Africa + +Author: Abd Salam Shabeeny + +Commentator: James Grey Jackson + +Release Date: September 16, 2007 [EBook #22631] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Renald Levesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France + + + + + + + + + + + AN ACCOUNT + OF + TIMBUCTOO AND HOUSA, + TERRITORIES IN THE INTERIOR OF + Africa, + + By: EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY; + + WITH + _NOTES, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY._ + TO WHICH IS ADDED, + LETTERS DESCRIPTIVE OF + TRAVELS THROUGH WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN'S OF ATLAS; + ALSO, + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, AND ANECDOTES; + SPECIMENS OF THE ARABIC EPISTOLARY STYLE, + &c. &c. + +"_L'Univers est une espece de livre, dont on n'a lu que la premiere + page, quand on n'a vu que son pays._" LE COSMOPOLITE. + + By; JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + RESIDENT UPWARDS OF SIXTEEN YEARS IN SOUTH AND WEST BARBARY, + IN A DIPLOMATIC AND IN A COMMERCIAL CAPACITY. + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, + PATERNOSTER-ROW. + 1820. + + +Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, +Printers Street, London. + + + + + TO + HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY + GEORGE THE FOURTH, + _&c. &c. &c._ + THIS WORK + IS + WITH PERMISSION, + RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, + + BY + + HIS MAJESTY'S + MOST DUTIFUL SUBJECT + AND SERVANT, + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The person who communicated the following intelligence respecting +Timbuctoo and Housa, is a Muselman, and a native of Tetuan, whose father +and mother are personally known to Mr. Lucas, the British Consul. His +name is Asseed El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny. His account of himself is, +that at the age of fourteen years he accompanied his father to +Timbuctoo, from which town, after a residence of three years, he +proceeded to Housa; and after residing at the latter two years, he +returned to Timbuctoo, where he continued seven years, and then came +back to Tetuan. + +Being now in the twenty-seventh year of his age, he proceeded from +Tetuan as a pilgrim and merchant, with the caravan for Egypt to Mecca +and Medina, and on his return, established himself as a merchant at +Tetuan, his native place, from whence he embarked on board a vessel +bound for Hamburgh, in order to purchase linens and other merchandize +that were requisite for his commerce. + +On his return from Hamburgh in an English vessel, he was captured, and +carried prisoner to Ostend, by a ship manned by Englishmen, but under +Russian colours, the captain of which pretended that his Imperial +mistress was at war with all Muselmen. There he was released by the good +offices of the British consul, Sir John Peters[a], and embarked once +more in the same vessel, which, by the same mediation, was also +released; but as the captain either was or pretended to be afraid of a +second capture, El Hage Abd Salam was sent ashore at Dover, and is +now[b], by the orders of government, to take his passage on board a +king's ship that will sail in a few days. + +In the following communications, Mr. Beaufoy proposed the questions, and +Mr. Lucas was the interpreter. + +Shabeeny was two years on his journey from Tetuan to Mekka, before he +returned to Fas. He made some profit on his merchandise, which consisted +of haiks[c], red caps, and slippers, cochineal and saffron; the returns +were, fine Indian muslins[d] for turbans, raw silk, musk, and +_gebalia_[e], a fine perfume that resembles black paste. + +He made a great profit by his traffic at Timbuctoo and Housa; but, _he +says_, money gained among the Negroes[f] has not the blessing of God on +it, but vanishes away without benefit to the owner; but, acquired in a +journey to Mecca, proves fortunate, and becomes a permanent acquisition. + +On his return with his father from Mecca, they settled at Tetuan, and +often carried cattle, poultry, &c. to Gibraltar; his father passed the +last fifteen years of his life at Gibraltar, and died there about the +year 1793. He was born at Mequinas; his family is descended from the +tribe of Shabban[g], which possesses the country between Santa Cruz and +Wedinoon. They were entitled to the office of pitching the Emperor's +tent, and attending his person. They can raise 40,000 men, and they were +the first who accompanied Muley Hamed Dehebby[h] in his march to +Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote a: Confirmed by Sir John Peters.] + + [Footnote b: In the year 1795.] + + [Footnote c: The haiks are light cotton, woollen, or silk garments, + about five feet wide and four yards long, manufactured at Fas, as + are also the red caps which are generally made of the finest Tedla + wool, which is equal to the Spanish, and is the produce of the + province of that name, (for the situation of which see the map of + the empire of Marocco, facing page 55.) The slippers are also + manufactured from leather made from goat-skins, at Fas and at + Mequinas. The cochineal is imported from Spain, although the + opuntia, or the tree that nourishes the cochineal-fly, abounds in + many of the provinces of West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Suse. The saffron abounds in the Atlas mountains in Lower Suse, + and is used in most articles of food by the Muhamedans.] + + [Footnote d: Muls.] + + [Footnote e: _Gebalia_ resembles frankincense, or Gum Benjamin, and + is used for fumigations by the Africans.] + + [Footnote f: Being idolaters.] + + [Footnote g: Shaban is (probably) a tribe of the Howara Arabs, who + possess the beautiful plains and fine country situated between the + city of Terodant and the port of Santa Cruz. There is an emigration + of the Mograffra Arabs, who are in possession of the country + between Terodant and the port of Messa. The encampments of an + emigration of the Woled Abusebah (vulgarly called, in the maps, + _Labdessebas_) Arabs of Sahara, occupy a considerable district + between Tomie, on the coast, and Terodant. The coast from Messa to + Wedinoon is occupied by a trading race of Arabs and Shelluhs, who + have inter-married, called _Ait Bamaran_. These people are very + anxious to have a port opened in their country, and some sheiks + among them have assured me, that there is a peninsula on their + coast conveniently situated for a port. _This circumstance is well + deserving the attention of the maritime and commercial nations of + the world._] + + [Footnote h: The youngest son of the Emperor Muley Ismael conducted + the expedition here alluded to, about the year of Christ 1727. For + an account of which see the Appendix, page 523.] + +He considers himself now as settled at Tetuan, where he has a wife and +children. He left it about twelve months ago, with three friends, to go +to Hamburg (as before mentioned.) They were confined forty-seven days at +Ostend, were taken the second day of their voyage; the English captain +put them ashore at Dover against their inclination, and proceeded to +Gibraltar with their goods: this was in December, 1789. + +THE CONTINENT. + +The continent of Africa, the discovery of which has baffled the +enterprise of Europe, (unlike every other part of the habitable world,) +still remains, as it were, a sealed book, at least, if the book has been +opened, we have scarcely got beyond the title-page. + +Great merit is due to the enterprise of travellers. The good intention +of the African Association, in promoting scientific researches in this +continent, cannot (by the liberal) be doubted. But something more than +this is necessary to embark _successfully_ in this gigantic undertaking. +I never thought that the system of solitary travellers would produce any +beneficial result. The plan of the expedition of Major Peddie and +Captain Tuckie was still more objectionable than the solitary plan, and +I have reason to think, that no man possessing any personal knowledge of +Africa, ever entertained hopes of the success of those expeditions. +Twenty years ago I declared it as MY decided opinion, that the only way +to obtain a knowledge of this interesting continent, is through the +medium of commercial intercourse. The more our experience of the +successive failure of our African expeditions advances, the more +strongly am I confirmed in this opinion. If we are to succeed in this +great enterprise, we must step out of the beaten path--the road of +error, that leads to disappointment--the road that has been so fatal to +all our ill-concerted enterprises; we must shake off the rust of +precedent, and strike into a new path altogether. + +Do we not lack that _spirit of union_ so expedient and necessary to all +great enterprises? Is not the public good sacrificed to +self-aggrandisement and individual interest.--Let the African +Institution unite its funds to those of the African Association, and +co-operate with the efforts of that society! Let the African Company +also throw in their share of intelligence. The separated and sometimes +discordant interests of all these societies, if united, might effect +much. The _united_ efforts of such societies would do more in a year +towards the civilization of Africa, and the abolition of slavery, than +they will do in ten, unconnected as they now are. _Concordia parva res +crescunt_.--When each looks to particular interests, we cannot expect +the result to be the general good. + +It is probable that the magnificent enterprises of the Portuguese and +Spaniards, would, ere this, have colonised and converted to +Christianity, all the eligible spots of idolatrous Africa, if their +attention to this grand object had not been diverted by the discovery of +America, and their establishments in Brazil, Mexico, &c. + +I was established upwards of sixteen years in West and South Barbary; +territories that maintain an uninterrupted intercourse with all those +countries that Major Houghton, Hornemann, Park, Rontgen, Burckhardt, +Ritchie, and others have attempted to explore. I was diplomatic agent to +several maritime nations of Europe, which familiarised me with all ranks +of society in those countries. I had a perfect knowledge of the +commercial and travelling language of Africa, (the Arabic.) I +corresponded _myself_ with the Emperors, Princes, and Bashaws in this +language; my commercial connections were _very_ extensive, amongst all +the most respectable merchants who traded with Timbuctoo and other +countries of Sudan. My residence at Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in Suse, +afforded me eligible opportunities of procuring information respecting +the trade with Sudan, and the interior of Africa. A long residence in +the country, and extensive connections, enabled me to discriminate, and +to ascertain who were competent and who were not competent to give me +the information I required. I had opportunities at my leisure of +investigating the motives that any might have to deceive me; I had time +and leisure also to investigate their moral character, and to ascertain +the principles that regulated their respective conduct. Possessed of all +these sources of information, how could I fail of procuring correct and +authentic intelligence of the interior of Africa; yet my account of the +two Niles has been doubted by our fire-side critics, and the desultory +intelligence of other travellers, who certainly did not possess those +opportunities of procuring information that I did, has been substituted: +but, notwithstanding this unaccountable scepticism, my uncredited +account of the connection of the two Niles of Africa, continues daily to +receive additional confirmation from all the African travellers +themselves. And thus, TIME, (to use the words of a [j]learned and most +intelligent writer), "which is more obscure in its course than the Nile, +and in its termination than the Niger," is disclosing all these things: +so that I now begin to think that the before-mentioned critics will not +be able much longer to maintain their theoretical hypothesis.[k] + + [Footnote j: Vide the Rev. C. C. Colton's Lacon, sect. 587. p. 260, + 261.] + + [Footnote k: See various letters on Africa, in this work, p. 443.] + +The talents, the extraordinary prudence and forbearance, the knowledge +of the Arabic language, and other essential qualifications in an African +traveller, which the ever-to-be-lamented Burckhardt so eminently +possessed, gave me the greatest hopes of his success in his arduous +enterprise, until I discovered, when reading his Travels, that he was +_poor and despised, though a Muselman_. + +There is too much reason to apprehend that he was suspected, if not +discovered by the Muselmen, or he would not have been _secluded from +their meals_ and society: the Muselmen never (_sherik taam_) eat or +divide food with those they suspect of deception, nor do they ever +_refuse to partake of food with a Muselman_, unless they do suspect him +of treachery or deception; this principle prevails so universally among +them, that artful and designing people have practised as many deceptions +on the Bedouin under the cloak of hospitality, as are practised in +Christian countries under the cloak of religion! I cannot but suspect, +therefore, from the circumstance before recited, that the Muselmism of +Burckhardt was seriously suspected, and that his companions only waited +a convenient opportunity in the Sahara for executing their revenge on +him for the deception. + +The very favourable reception that my account of Marocco met with from +the British public; the many things therein stated, which are daily +gaining confirmation, although they were doubted at the period of their +publication, have contributed in no small degree, to the production of +the following sheets, in which I can conscientiously declare, that truth +has been my guide; I have never sacrificed it to ambition, vanity, +avarice, or any other passion. + +The learned, I am flattered to see, are now beginning to adopt my +orthography of African names; they have lately adopted _Timbuctoo_ for +the old and barbarous orthography of _Timbuctoo_; they have, however, +been upwards of ten years about it. In ten years more, I anticipate that +_Fez_ will be changed into _Fas_, and _Morocco_ into _Marocco_, for this +plain and uncontrovertible reason,--because they are so spelled in the +original language of the countries, of which they are the chief cities. +Since the publication of my account of Marocco, I have seen Arabic words +spelled various ways by the same author (I have committed the same error +myself); but in the following work I have adopted a plan to correct this +prevailing error in Oriental orthography, which, I think, ought to be +followed by every Oriental scholar, as the only correct way of +transcribing them in English; viz. by writing them exactly according to +the original Arabic orthography, substituting _gr_ (not _gh_, as +Richardson directs) for the Arabic guttural [Arabic] grain, and _kh_ +for the guttural _k_ or [Arabic]-- + +_Note._ We should be careful not to copy the orthography of Oriental or +African names from the French, which has too often been done, although +their pronunciation of European letters is very dissimilar from our own. + + + + + CONTENTS. + +_An Account of a Journey from Fas to Timbuctoo, performed about the year +1787, by El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny._ Page 1 + +Route to Timbuctoo.--Situation of the City.--Population.--Inns +or Caravanseras, called Fondaks.--Houses.--Government.--Revenue.--Army. +Administration of Justice.--Succession to Property.--Marriage.--Trade. +Manufactures.--Husbandry.--Provisions.--Animals.--Birds.--Fish.--Prices +of different Articles.--Dress.--Time.--Religion.--Diseases.--Manners +and Customs.--Neighbouring Nations. + +_Journey from Timbuctoo to Housa_ 37 + +The River Neel or Nile.--Housa.--Government.--Administration +of Justice--Landed Property,--Revenues.--Army.--Trade.--Climate. +Zoology.--Diseases.--Religion.--Persons.--Dress.--Buildings.--Manners. +Gold.--Limits of the Empire. + +_Letters, containing an Account of Journies through various Parts of +West and South Barbary, at different Periods, personally performed by +J.G. Jackson._ 55 + +LETTER I. (To James Willis, Esq., late British Consul for Senegambia.) +On the Opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the Province of +Suse; and of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid to the Dutch. _ibid._ + +LETTER II. (To the same.) The Author's Arrival at Agadeer or Santa +Cruz.--He opens the Port to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception +on landing there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading +Custom that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on +Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a Sanctuary +at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been considered Holy Ground, +and none but Muhamedans had ever before been permitted to enter the +Gates on Horseback. 58 + +LETTER III. (To the same.) The Author makes a Commercial Road down the +Mountain, to facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and +Liberality of the Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description +of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength +of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Agurem, and the Portuguese Spring and Tank +there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a Fort.--Eligibility of +the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial Depot to supply the whole +of the Interior of North Africa with East India and European +Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to Commerce and Industry, if +Opportunity offered. 62 + +LETTER IV. (To the same.) Command of the Commerce of Sudan. 67 + +LETTER V. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 69 + +LETTER VI. From the same to the same 71 + +LETTER VII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles +the Customs' Duties of Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abdelmelk, with +the Garrison and Merchants of Santa Cruz, ordered to go to the Court at +Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the Country +and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through which the Author +passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse from Marocco, +originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas.--Extensive +Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco +Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the +Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Prince Abdelmelk's magnificent +Apparel reprobated by the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz shut to the +Commerce of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Marocco.--The Prince +banished to the _Bled Shereef_, or Country of Princes; viz. Tafilelt, of +the Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the +Country.--Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity +of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (_Attar_ +being the Word signifying a Distillation.).--State of Oister Shells on +the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and Marocco, being +a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's Reception on the +Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or Sahara of Mogodor. 73 + +LETTER VIII. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 84 + +Extract of a Letter from His Excellency J.M. Matra, British Envoy to +Marocco, &c. to Mr. Jackson. 85 + +LETTER IX. (To James Willis, Esq.) Custom of visiting the Emperor on his +Arrival at Marocco.--Journey of the Merchants thither on that +Occasion.--No one enters the Imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode +of travelling.--The Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience +of the Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of +Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at +Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, East and +South of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of Eating.--Trades +or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of the Sultan.--Present +received from the Sultan. 86 + +LETTER X. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 99 + +LETTER XI. From the same to the same 101 + +LETTER XII. From the same to the same 103 + +LETTER XIII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Journey from Mogodor to Rabat, to +Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, +to the Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite Country to +L'Araich and Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as (_Tabuk_) +Cook, and Deeb as (_Mule Lukkerzana_) Tent-Master.--Exportation of Wool +granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the Plague.--Arabs, +their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations respecting the River +Tansift.--Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' Pass.--Description of Saffy, and +its Port or Road.--Woladia calculated to make a safe harbour.--Growth of +Tobacco.--Mazagan described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet +Urtemma a dangerous Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat +described.--Mausoleum of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of +Sheila, a Roman Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of +Rabat.--Productive Country about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to +Christians.--The Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait +Zimurh, notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country +disturbed with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City +and its Imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely +beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris or Idris +Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the Fakeers of +the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected from the English +in the Event of an Invasion by Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of +Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of +Pharaoh near the Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.-- + +The Descendants of the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these +People.--Various Tribes of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar +Kabeer.--Its Environs, a beautiful Country.--Forest of +L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as +Imitations of Amber.--Grand Entry of the British Ambassador into +Tangier.--Our Ignorance of African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of +the Provinces of his Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe. 105 + +LETTER XIV. (From His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson.) +Respecting the Result of the British Embassy to the Emperor of Marocco +at Old Fas. 128 + +LETTER XV. (To James Willis, Esq.) European Society at Tangier.--Sects +and Divisions among Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the +Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt upon Christians +themselves.--The Cause of it.--The Conversion of Africa should be +preceded by an Imitation of the divine Doctrine of Christ among +Christians themselves. 129 + +LETTER XVI. (To the same.) Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, +showing the Distances from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic +Ocean; useful to Persons travelling in that Country. 132 + +LETTER XVII. (To the same.) An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to +Saffy, during a Civil War, in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not +pass, owing to the Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and +Shedma.--Stratagem adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger +of being discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, +Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and Compliments +received from him on his having accomplished this perilous Journey. 134 + +LETTER XVIII. (To the same.) Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the +Khalif Delemy in Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in +Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, in +Suse.--Country infested with Rats.--Situation of Tomie.--Entertainment +at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to +entertain his guests.--Arabian Dance and Music.--Manner and Style of +Dancing.--Eulogium of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners +of the latter.--Their personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to +have a Commercial Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince +respecting Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various +Articles of Commerce.--Viceroy's Offer to build a House, and the +Duties.--Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold and Silver +Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and Grapes.--Mode of +Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at Delemy's.--Elegant +Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince prepares to depart for +Tafilelt. 137 + +LETTER XIX. (To the same.) Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no +Travellers ventured to pass, owing to Civil War and Contention among the +Kabyles.--Moorish Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of +Travellers.--Travelled with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, +Baggage, or Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land.--Bitter +Effects of Revenge and Retaliation on the happiness of Society.--Origin +of these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with +Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among the +Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic Honey.--Ceremony at +Meals, and Mode of Eating.--Travelled all Night, and slept in the open +Air;--Method of avoiding the Night-dew, as practised by the +Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor. 150 + +_An Account of the Rise, Progress, and Decrease of the Plague that +ravaged West and South Barbary, in 1799, faithfully extracted, from +Letters written before and during its Existence, by the House of James +Jackson & Co., or by James G. Jackson, at Mogodor, to their +Correspondents in Europe._ 156 + +Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson. 163 + +An Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated West and +South Barbary in 1799 and 1800, to the Effects of which the Author was +an eye-witness. 166 + +Cases of Plague. 180 + +Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in West +Barbary, which was imported from Egypt; communicated by the Author to +the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the +Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, No. 15, +published October, 1819. 186 + +_Journey from Tangier to Rabat, through the Plains of Seboo, in Company +with Doctor Bell and the Prince Muley Teib and an Army of Cavalry_. 191 + +Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. Bell.--Description +of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, an +incomparably fine and productive Country.--The Cavalry of the +Amorites;--their unique Observations on Dr. Bell: their mean opinion of +his Art, because he could not cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on +Rafts of inflated Skins.--Spacious tent of Goat's Hair erected for the +Sheik, and appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the +magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian +Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these Plains.--Matamores, +what they are.--Mode of Reaping.-- + +The Prince presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his +Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and the +Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor. 191 + +_Of the excavated Residences of the Inhabitants of Atlas: the Acephali, +Hel Shoual, and Hel el Kitteb_. 198 + +The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System of +solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous Company; +beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the +Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indispensable to +the Conversion of the native Negroes to Christianity. + +_Cautions to be used in Travelling_. 202 + +Danger of Travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself +accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling +between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of +Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of Living among the Arabs; Food, Clothing, +domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs calculated by the +Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are good Figures, and have +personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; poetical Geniuses; Dancing and +Amusements; Musical Instruments; their Manners are courteous. + +_Abundance of Corn produced in West Barbary_. 208 + +Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of Duquella's +Weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or Subterranneous +Depositaries for Corn. + +_Domestic Serpents of Marocco_ 213 + +_Manufactures of Fas_. 214 + +Superior Manufactory of Gold Thread.--Imitation of precious +Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine. + +_On the State of Slavery in Muhamedan Africa_. 219 + +_The Plague of Locusts_. 221 + +Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance of +their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and not on the +other. + +_On the Influence of the great Principle of Christianity on the Moors_. + 224 + +Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent +it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial +Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to attend to +the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French colonizing Senegal, +and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating the Value of our West-India +Islands. + +_Interest of Money._ 237 + +Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital. + +_Plan for the gradual Civilisation of Africa._ 247 + +On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the Sahara and +Ashantee. + +_Prospectus of a Plan for forming a North African or Sudan Company: to +be instituted for the Purpose of establishing an extensive Commerce +with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the Interior Regions of +North Africa._ 251 + +Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the Trade +carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the +Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of North +Africa, and with other States of Sudan. 254 + +Letter from Vasco de Gama, in Elucidation of this Plan. 258 + +Letter on the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, in further Elucidation +of this Plan. 264 + +Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa. 266 + +_Architecture of the Mosques.--Funeral Ceremonies of the Moors,--Gardens +at Fas._ 271 + +_Fragments, Notes, and Anecdotes, illustrating the Nature and Character +of the Country._ 276 + +Introduction,--Trade with Sudan.--Wrecked Ships on the Coast, +278.--Wrecked Sailors.--Timbuctoo Coffee.--Sand Baths.--Civil War common +in West Barbary, 279.--Policy of the Servants of the Emperor.--El Wah El +Grarbee, or the Western Oasis, 280.--Prostration, the Etiquette of the +Court of Marocco, 281.--Massacre of the Jews, and Attack on +Algiers.--Treaties with Muhamedan Princes, 283.--Berebbers of Zimurh +Shelleh--The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation, +284.--The Body of the Emperor Muley Yezzid disinterred, 286. Shelluhs; +their Revenge and Retaliation, 291.--Travelling in Barbary.--Anecdote +displaying the African Character, and showing them to be now what they +were anciently, under Jugurtha, 293.--Every Nation is required to use +its own Costume, 296.--Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under +that Name, 297.--The Emperor's Attack on Dimenet, in the Atlas, +305.--Moral Justice, 306.--Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers +of Atlas.--Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans, 308.--Political +Deception, 309.--Etiquette of the Court of Marocco, 310.--Customs of the +Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas.--Connubial Customs, 313.--Political +Duplicity, 314.--Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco, +315.--Food, viz. Kuscasoe, Hassua, El Hasseeda, 317--The Woled +Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the Plains of Marocco, +317.--The Koran called the Beloved Book.--Arabian Music, +318.--Sigilmessa.--Mungo Park at Timbuctoo.--Troglodyte, 319,--Police of +West Barbary, 320.--Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed, an Anecdote of, +322,--Anecdote of Muley Ismael, 323.--Library at Fas, 324.--Deism, +325--Muhamedan Loyalty.--Cairo, 326.--Races of Men constituting the +Inhabitants of West and South Barbary, and that part of Bled el Jereed, +called Tafilelt and Sejin Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the +territories of the present Emperor of Marocco: the Moors--the +Berebbers--the Shelluhs, 327.--The Arabs--the Jews--Douars, +328.--Various Modes of Intoxication, 329.--Division of Agricultural +Property, 331.--Mines.--Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, +called by the Arabs _Butelleese_; and its Remedy, 332.--Vaccination, +336.--Game, 338.--Agriculture.--Mitferes, 339.--Laws of Hospitality, +340.--Punishment for Murder.--Insolvency Laws, 343.--Dances, +344.--Circumcision.--Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, +345.--Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, 346.--Invoice from +Timbuctoo to Fas, 347.--Translation of its accompanying Letter from +Timbuctoo, 348.--Food of the Desert,--Antithesis, a favourite Figure +with the Arabs, 349.--Arabian Modes of Writing, 350.--Decay of Science +and of Arts among the Arabs, 352.--Extraordinary Abstinence experienced +in the Sahara. 353 + +_Languages of Africa._ 355 + +Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the +Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the Mandinga +Language.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the Wah el +Grarbie, or Oasis of Ammon, and with the original Language of the Canary +Islands, and similitude of Customs. + +_Titles of the Emperor of Marocco._ 382 + +Style of addressing him. 383 + +_Specimens of Muhamedan Epistolatory Correspondence._ 384 + +LETTER I. Translation of a Letter from Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, +to Captain Kirke, at Tangier, Ambassador from King Charles the Second, +A.D. 1684. _ibid_ + +LETTER II. From the same to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, on board the Charles +Galley, off Sallee, A.D. 1684. 387 + +LETTER III, Captain Shovel's Answer, September 1684. 389 + +LETTER IV. Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter to +Queen Anne, A.D. 1710, from the Harl. MSS. 7525. 392 + +LETTER V. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben +Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident at +Tangier, delivered to each of them by the Bashaw of the Province of El +Grarb, A.D. 1788. 394 + +LETTER VI. From Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. +to His Majesty George the Third, literally translated by J.G. Jackson, +at the Request of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, after lying in the +Secretary of State's Office here for several Months, and being sent +ineffectually to the Universities, and after various Enquiries had been +made on Behalf of the Emperor to the Governor of Gibraltar, the Bashaw +of El Grarb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any Answer had +been returned to His Imperial Majesty. 395 + +LETTER VII. Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated +from the original Arabic, by J.G. Jackson. 398 + +LETTER VIII. From Hulaku the Tartar, Conqueror of the East, to Al Malek +Annasar, Sultan of Aleppo, A.D. 1259. 399 + +LETTER IX. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to +Webster Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their +High Mightinesses, the States General of the Seven United Provinces, +written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and previous to the +Negociation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz to +Dutch Commerce. 402 + +LETTER X. Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid to the +Governor of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the +Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation. 402 + +LETTER XI. Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa in their +Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan +Faith, A.D. 1797. 404 + +LETTER XII. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed, +Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor, A.D. 1791, A.H. 1203. 405 + +_Doubts having been made, in the Daily Papers, concerning the Accuracy +of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of +Mungo Park's Death, the following Observations by the Author are laid +before the Public, in Elucidation of those Translations._ 406 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (The Author's +Translation). 409 + +Observation. 410 + +Extract from the Times, May 3, 1819.--Mungo Park. 412 + +The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death (Mr. Abraham +Saleme's Translation). 413 + +Letter to the Editor of the British Statesman, on the Errors in Mr. +Saleme's Translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's Account of the Death of +Mungo Park. 415 + +_Letters respecting Africa, from J.G. Jackson and other._ 419 + +On the Plague. To James Willis, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. 419 + +Death of Mungo Park. 424 + +Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of Africa. + 425 + +Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called +Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in +Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication between +Timbuctoo and Egypt. 429 + +Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia or Night-blindness, +in a Letter addressed to the Editor of the Literary Panorama. 432 + +Letter to the same. 433 + +Critical Observations on Extracts from the Travels of Ali Bey and Robert +Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the Arts, +edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain. Vol. I. No. 2, p. 264. + 435 + +On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, or of +Sudan. 443 + +Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of +Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of +Marocco, &c. 446 + +Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names (by Catherine Hutton). + 455 + +Hints for the Civilization of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce, by +Vasco de Gama. 457 + +Plan for the Conquest of Algiers, by Vasco de Gama. 461 + +Letter from El Hage Hamed El Wangary, respecting a Review of Ali Bey's +Travels, in the "Portfolio," an American Periodical Work. 464 + +On the Negroes (by Vasco de Gama). 465 + +Cursory Observations on Lieutenant Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal of a +Route across India, through Egypt, to England. 467 + +On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Europe, Asia, and Africa. 471 + +Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an Account +of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors +that have been committed by European travellers on that Continent, from +their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the learned and the general +travelling Language of that interesting Part of the World. 474 + +Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa. 493 + +The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the sworne Esquires of Queen +Elizabeth, from Her Highness, to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Marocco, +and King of Fez and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. Written by Himselfe. 494 + +Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L., and E. 505 + +Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels in +Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D. by Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 508 + +Cursory Observations on African Names. 509 + +Letter to the Author from Hugh Murray, Esq. F.R.S.E. 513 + +On the Two Niles of Africa, or the Niger and the Nile. 514 + +APPENDIX. + +_Historical Fragments in Elucidation of the foregoing pages._ 519 + +First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo--Timbuctoo and Guago captured by +Muley Hamed (Son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk, or +Muley Moluck) in the Sixteenth Century (about the Year 1580). 519 + +A Library of 3000 Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards.--Contests +among Christians reprimanded. 520 + +Muley El Arsheed (a Second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan). 521 + +Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan. 523 + + + * * * * * + +DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. + + +Map of the Tracks across the Sahara to Timbuctoo, _to face_. 1 + +Map of the Empire of Marocco. 55 + + +[Illustration] + +1 + + AN + ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY + FROM + FAS TO TIMBUCTOO, + PERFORMED IN OR ABOUT THE YEAR 1787, A.C. + BY + _EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY_. + + + The Moors always prefer the spring and summer for travelling, + because they suffer very much from the severe cold of the mornings + in winter. They generally leave Fas in the beginning of April to + proceed to Timbuctoo, and they leave Timbuctoo to return to Fas in + the month of January. + + The Mecca caravan takes its departure from Fas the beginning of + March. + + In travelling, the Moors hire their camels from stage to stage. + Shabeeny's first stage was from Fas[1] to Tafilelt, which is + generally performed in about twenty days. + + [Footnote 1: This is a journey of crooked and rugged roads + across the Atlas mountains, where they often sojourn in spots + which invite the traveller, so that it takes a longer time to + perform it than the distance would indicate.] +2 + The hire of every camel was from ten to twelve ducats, at five + shillings sterling per ducat; as this route is through a very + mountainous country, and the travelling is very bad, the charges + were proportionally high; the weight which every camel carried was + between four and five quintals, the camels in this country being + strong and very large.[2] + + Tafilelt is the place of general meeting of all the merchants who + go to Timbuctoo.[3] + + The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns, but abounds in + fortresses with mud-walls[4], which the natives call El Kassar, and + which contain from three to four hundred families; in these + fortresses there is a public market (in Arabic, _soke_) every week, + where the inhabitants purchase provisions, &c. + + The natives of Tafilelt are descendants of the shereefs[5] or + princes of Marocco, and are therefore of the Imperial family. + + [Footnote 2: This charge of carriage by the camels from Fas to + Tafilelt, is equal to 55s., sterling per camel; to 1-1/2d. per + mile for each camel, and to one farthing and one third per + quintal of merchandise per mile.] + + [Footnote 3: That is for all who go from the Emperor of + Marocco's dominions, north of the river Morbeya, which is + called El Garb, or the North Western Division.] + + [Footnote 4: These mud walls are made in cases, and the mode of + erecting them is called _tabia_. See Jackson's Account of the + Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 298.] + + [Footnote 5: Hence it is called _Bled Shereef_, i.e. the + Country of Princes.] +3 + Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha[6], which he reached in six + days. The expense per camel was about six ducats, or thirty + shillings sterling. The district of Draha abounds in the small hard + date[7], which is very fine; from four to six drahems[8] (equal to + two to three shillings sterling) is the price of a camel load of + these dates. + + The province of Draha is larger than that of Tafilelt, its + circumference being about four or five days' journey. The + natives[9] of Draha are very dark, approaching to black, in their + complexion: this province abounds in fortresses, like those of + Tafilelt. + + [Footnote 6: A province at the foot of the mountains of Atlas, + south of Marocco, for which see the Map of West Barbary, in + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. p. 1.] + + [Footnote 7: This date is called by the natives _bouskree:_ it + contains a larger quantity of saccharine juice than any other + date. This province also produces a date called _butube_, which + is the best that grows, and is called _sultan de timmar_, i.e. + the king of dates. It is not used as an article of commerce, + but is sent as presents to the great, and costs nearly double + the price of those of any other quality: the quality mostly + used for foreign commerce, is the Tafilelt date, called _timmar + adamoh_, which is sold by the grocers in London. This species + is, however, considered very unwholesome food, and accordingly + is never eaten by the Filellies, or inhabitants of Tafilelt, + but is food for the camels. The district of Tafilelt abounds in + dates of all kinds: there are not less than thirty different + kinds; and the plantations of dates belonging to the princes of + Tafilelt are very extensive, insomuch that the annual produce + of one plantation is often sold for a thousand dollars, or 220L + sterling. Half a dollar, or five drahems per camel load of + three quintals.] + + [Footnote 8: A drahem is a silver coin, ten of which are equal + to a Mexico dollar.] + + [Footnote 9: Their colour is darker than new copper, but not + black, It may be compared to the colour of _old_ mahogany, with + a black hue. The natives of Draha are proverbially stupid.] +4 + The caravans have not, as in the journey to Mecca, their sheiks[10] + or commanders. From Fas to Tafilelt they had no chief, but as there + are generally a few old, rich, and respectable men in the caravan, + its direction and government are committed to their care. + + [Footnote 10: The _sheik akkabar_, or chief of the accumulated + caravan, is generally a _shereef_ or prince.] + + From Tafilelt, which, as before observed, is the country of the + shereefs, they are guided by such of the trading shereefs as + accompany the caravan, and who have always great respect paid them, + till they arrive at Timbuctoo. The caravan increases as it proceeds + in its journey: at Fas it consisted of about thirty or forty; at + Draha, of from 300 to 400 camels. From Draha, at the distance of + three days' travelling, they found water by digging, and on the + next morning they entered the _Sahara_, which, for the first twenty + days is a plain sandy desert resembling the sea. In this desert, + when they pitch their tents at night, they are obliged frequently + to shake the sand from their tops, as they would otherwise be + overwhelmed before the morning. + + Some part of this desert is hard, and the camels do not sink deep + into it; in others the sand is very loose, which fatigues the +5 camels exceedingly. In travelling, the caravan is directed by the + stars at night, and by the sun in the day, and occasionally by the + smell of the earth, which they take up in their hands. For the + first twenty days after they enter this wilderness they have no + water; during this period, the caravan is obliged to carry water in + goat-skins[11], as not a drop is to be found by digging. On this + account, about a third part of the camels are employed in carrying + water, and even with this quantity the camels are often left for + three or four days without any. They never use mules in this part + of the journey; they neither find the _sheh_[12], nor the thorny + plant so common in the deserts of Africa. + + The country on the borders of this desert, to the right and left, + is inhabited by roving Arabs, at the distance of three or four days + from the track which the caravan pursues; and is said to be partly + plain, and in part hilly, with a little grass, and a few shrubs; + when the cattle of these Arabs have consumed what grows in one + spot, their owners remove to another. The caravan, though it + generally consisted of about 400 men well armed, seeks its route + through the most unfrequented part of the desert, from a dread of + the attacks of the Arabs. The hottest wind is that from the + east-south-east, and is called _Esshume_[13]; the coldest is that + which blows from the west-north-west. To alleviate the great + drought which travellers feel in the desert, they have recourse to + melted butter.[14] + + [Footnote 11: These goat-skins, when containing water, are + called by the Arabs _kereb_, or _ghireb_, plur. _kerba_, or + _ghirba_, sing.] + + [Footnote 12: The _sheh_ is the wormseed plant, the thorny + plant here alluded to is the wild myrtle.] + + [Footnote 13: _Esshume_, or the hot wind. For a particular + description of this extraordinary wind, see Jackson's Account + of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, page 283 + and 284.] + + [Footnote 14: This is old butter kept several years in a + _matamore_, or subterraneous cavern. It is called by the Arabs + of the desert, _budra_; and much virtue is ascribed to it when + it has attained a certain age: a small quantity swallowed, + quickly diffuses itself through the system.] + +6 After passing this desert of twenty days, they enter a country + which varies in its appearance, particular spots being fertile[15] + (called El Wah). Here they meet with _sederah_[16], a kind of wild + myrtle, in great quantities. This plant is called by the natives, + _gylan:_ its height is about that of a man; the camels feed upon + it. Between these shrubs there is a very small quantity of grass in + particular spots. In this part of the desert they meet with + extensive strata of stones: though the surface is generally sand, + yet at the depth of eight or ten inches, they meet with a yellow or + reddish earth; and about four feet deeper, with another kind of + earth of various colours, but most commonly of a brownish cast; +7 about five or six feet under this they find water, which springs + up very slowly, and at the bottom of this water you meet with a + light sand. Sometimes the water is sweetish, frequently brackish, + and generally warm. This last desert is about twenty days' journey, + and is a vast plain without any mountains. They meet with no Arabs + in this part, but the country on the right and left of their route, + at the distance of from three to eight days' journey, is inhabited + by Arabs, who are governed by their own (_sheiks_) chiefs, and are + perfectly independent. + + [Footnote 15: El Wah. For a full explanation of this term, see + Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, 3d edition, p. + 283.] + + [Footnote 16: _Sederah_, thorny shrubs of all kinds are so + called.] + + From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of forty-three days, they meet + with no trees, except the _sederah_, no rivers, towns, or huts. + From Draha, which is a country abounding in camels, to Timbuctoo, + the charge per camel is from sixteen to twenty-one ducats.[17] That + so long a journey is performed at so small[18] an expense, is owing + to the abundance of camels in Draha. The caravan generally contains + from 300 to 400 men, of whom a great part prefer walking to the + uneasy motion of the camels. + + [Footnote 17: From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 11 ducats per + camel. + + Tafilelt to Draha, 6 do. 6 do. do. + + Draha to Timbuctoo, 48 do. 18-1/2 do. do. + + --- ---- + + 69 days, for 35-1/2 ducats per camel + load, which is about the rate of one farthing per quintal per + mile. This does not include the expense of camels for the + conveyance of merchants, servants, &c. or of provisions or + water, but merely of those carrying goods. A full account of + these caravans, and their mode of crossing the Sahara, will be + found in Jackson's Marocco, ch. 13.] + + [Footnote 18: The expense is now (A.C. 1818) smaller, as the + ducat, by a coinage which is depreciated, has fallen to 3s. 6d. + sterling.] +8 + SITUATION OF THE CITY OF TIMBUCTOO. + + On the east side of the city of Timbuctoo, there is a large forest, + in which are a great many elephants. The timber here is very large. + The trees on the outside of the forest are remarkable for having + two different colours; that side which is exposed to the morning + sun is black, and the opposite side is yellow. The body of the tree + has neither branches nor leaves, but the leaves, which are + remarkably large, grow upon the top only: so that one of these + trees appears, at a distance, like the mast and round top of a + ship. Shabeeny has seen trees in England much taller than these: + within the forest the trees are smaller than on its skirts. There + are no trees resembling these in the Emperor of Marocco's + dominions. They are of such a size that the largest cannot be + girded by two men. They bear a kind of berry about the size of a + walnut, in clusters consisting of from ten to twenty berries. + Shabeeny cannot say what is the extent of this forest, but it is + very large. Close to the town of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a + small rivulet in which the inhabitants wash their clothes, and + which is about two feet deep. It runs in the great forest on the + east, and does not communicate with the Nile, but is lost in the + sands west of the town. Its water is brackish; that of the Nile is +9 good and pleasant. The town of Timbuctoo is surrounded by a + mud-wall: the walls are built tabia-wise[19] as in Barbary, + viz. they make large wooden cases, which they fill with mud, and + when that dries they remove the cases higher up till they have + finished the wall. They never use stone or brick; they do not know + how to make bricks. The wall is about twelve feet high, and + sufficiently strong to defend the town against the wild Arabs, who + come frequently to demand money from them. It has three gates; one + called Bab Sahara, or the gate of the desert, on the north: + opposite to this, on the other side of the town, a second, called + Bab Neel, or the gate of the Nile: the third gate leads to the + forest on the east, and is called Beb El Kibla.[20] The gates are + hung on very large hinges, and when shut at night, are locked, as + in Barbary; and are farther secured by a large prop of wood placed + in the inside slopingly against them. There is a dry ditch, or + excavation, which circumscribes the town, (except at those places + which are opposite the gates,) about twelve feet deep, and too wide +10 for any man to leap it. The three gates of the town are shut + every evening soon after sun-set: they are made of folding doors, + of which there is only one pair. The doors are lined on the outside + with untanned hides of camels, and are so full of nails that no + hatchet can penetrate them; the front appears like one piece of + iron. + + [Footnote 19: The tabia walls are thus built: They put boards + on each side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the + ground, or attached to other stakes laid transversely across + the wall; the intermediate space is then filled with sand and + mud, and beat down with large wooden mallets, (as they beat the + terraces) till it becomes hard and compact; the cases are left + on for a day or two; they then take them off, and move them + higher up, repeating this operation till the wall is finished.] + + [Footnote 20: El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed: in most + African towns there is a Kibla-gate, which faces Medina in + Arabia.] + + POPULATION. + + The town is once and a half the size of Tetuan[21], and contains, + besides natives, about 10,000[22] of the people of Fas and Marocco. + The native inhabitants of the town of Timbuctoo may be computed at + 40,000, exclusive of slaves and foreigners. Many of the merchants + who visit Timbuctoo are so much attached to the place that they + cannot leave it, but continue there for life. The natives are all + blacks: almost every stranger marries a female of the town, who are + so beautiful that travellers often fall in love with them at first + sight. + + [Footnote 21: That is about four miles in circumference. Tetuan + contains 16,000 inhabitants; but, according to this account, + Timbuctoo contains 50,000, besides slaves, a population above + three times that of Tetuan: now, as the houses of Timbuctoo are + more spacious than those of Tetuan, it is to be apprehended + that Shabeeny has committed an error in describing the size of + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 22: Who go there for the purposes of trade.] + + INNS, OR CARAVANSERAS. + + When strangers arrive they deposit their merchandise in large + warehouses called fondacs; and hire as many rooms as they choose, +11 having stables for their camels, &c. in the same place. These + fondacs[23] are private property, and are called either by the + owner's name, or by that of the person who built them. The fondac, + in which Shabeeny and his father lived, had forty apartments for + men, exclusive of stables; twenty below and twenty above, the place + having two stories. The staircase was within the inclosure, and was + composed of rough boards; while he staid, the rooms were constantly + occupied by natives and strangers; they hired rooms for three + months, for which they paid thirty okiat, or fifteen shillings + sterling per month. These fondacs are called Woal[24] by the + negroes. The money was paid to the owner's agent, who always lives + in the fondac for this purpose, and to accommodate strangers with + provisions, &c. At their arrival, porters assisted them and + procured every thing they wanted; but when they were settled they + hired a man and a woman slave to cook and to clean their rooms, and + to do every menial office. Slaves are to be bought at all hours: + the slave-merchants keep a great number ready for sale. + + [Footnote 23: It is probable that Adams, the American sailor, + (if he ever was at Timbuctoo,) saw one of these fondacs that + belonged to the king, and mistook it for his palace.] + + [Footnote 24: Ten okiat, or drahems, make a Mexico dollar. The + name of the king of Timbuctoo, in 1800 A.C. was Woolo. Many of + the fondacs are rented of him.] + + HOUSES. + + In the houses little furniture is seen; the principal articles +12 (those of the kitchen excepted) are beds, mats on the floor, and + the carpets; which cover the whole room. The rooms are about + fourteen feet by ten; the kitchen and wash-house are generally to + the right and to the left of the passage; the necessary is next the + wash-house.[25] + + [Footnote 25: Being more convenient for the Muhamedan + ablutions.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + Timbuctoo is governed by a native black, who has the title of + sultan. He is tributary to the sultan of Housa, and is chosen by + the inhabitants of Timbuctoo, who write to the king of Housa for + his approbation. Upon the death of a sultan, his eldest son is most + commonly chosen. The son of a concubine cannot inherit the throne; + if the king has no lawful son (son of his wife) at his decease, the + people choose his successor from among his relations. The sultan + has only one lawful wife, but keeps many concubines: the wife has a + separate house for herself, children, and slaves. He has no + particular establishment for his concubines, but takes any girl he + likes from among his slaves. His wife has the principal management + of his house. The sultan's palace is built in a corner of the city, + on the east; it occupies a large extent of ground within an + inclosure, which has a gate. Within this square are many buildings; + some for the officers of state. The king often sits in the gate to + administer justice, and to converse with his friends. There is a +13 small garden within it, furnishing a few flowers and vegetables for + his table; there is also a well, from which the water is drawn by a + wheel.[26] Many female slaves are musicians. The king has several + sons, who are appointed to administer justice to the natives. + Except the king's relations, there are no nobles nor any privileged + class of men as in Barbary[27]: those of the blood-royal are much + respected. The officers of state are distinguished by titles like + those of Marocco; one that answers to an Alkaid, _i. e._ a captain + of 700, of 500, or of 100 men; another like that of Bashaw. The + king, if he does not choose to marry one of his own relations, + takes a wife from the family of the chiefs of his council; his + daughters marry among the great men. The queen-dowager has + generally an independent provision, but cannot marry. The + concubines of a deceased king cannot marry, but are handsomely + provided for by his successor. + + [Footnote 26: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a + mule or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a + trough as they pass round, which trough discharges the water + into the garden, and immerges the plants.] + + [Footnote 27: The privileged class of men in Barbary, are the + Fakeers; but no one in Barbary is noble but the King's + relations, who are denominated shereefs.] + + REVENUE. + + The revenue arises partly from land and partly from duties upon all + articles exposed to sale. The king has lands cultivated by farmers +14 who are obliged to supply his household and troops; the surplus + after the support of their own families is deposited in + matamores[28], these are stores to be used in time of scarcity: the + matamores are about six feet deep. The king often gives gold-dust, + slaves, &c. to his favorites, but the royal domains are never + given. Lands not very fruitful are common pastures. Moors pay no + duties; they say they will not bring goods if compelled to pay + duty, but the natives must pay; the duties are collected by the + king's officers, they are four per cent. upon each article _ad + valorem_. At the gate of the desert, goods brought by foreigners + pay nothing, but goods brought in by the gate of the Nile, (which + is the gate of the Negroes,) pay a tax: another part of the revenue + is two per cent, in kind on the produce of the land; but the people + of Barbary do not pay even this for what land they cultivate. The + property of those who die without heirs goes to the king, but when + a foreigner dies the king takes no part of his property; it is kept + for his relations. Timbuctoo being a frontier town remits no + revenue to Housa; the king of Housa sends money to Timbuctoo to pay + the garrison. + + [Footnote 28: Subterraneous excavations, or rooms in the form + of a cone, which have a small opening like a trap-door; when + these matamores are full of grain, they are shut, and the air + being excluded, the grain deposited in them will keep sound + twenty or thirty years. I have been in matamores in West and in + South Barbary, that would contain 1000 saas of wheat, or nearly + 2000 bushels Winchester measure. They are from six to sixteen + feet deep, and of various conical forms.] +15 + ARMY. + + The troops are paid by the king of Housa, and are armed with pikes, + swords, cutlasses, sabres, and muskets; the other natives use the + bow and arrow. At Timbuctoo, in time of war, there are about 12,000 + or 15,000 troops, 5000 of which receive constant daily pay in time + of peace, and are clothed every year; they are all infantry except + a few of the king's household. Sometimes he subsidises the friendly + Arabs, and makes occasional presents to their chiefs[29]; these + Arabs can furnish him with from 80,000 to 40,000 men. + + [Footnote 29: Of the Brabeesh clan; see the Map.] + + ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. + + Punishments are the bastinado, imprisonment, and fine. He + recollects but one prison. If a native stabs another, he is obliged + to attend the wounded man until he recovers; if he dies, the + offender is put to death. The offender must pay a daily allowance + to the wounded man for his support; if the wound appears dangerous, + the culprit is immediately imprisoned; if the wounded man recovers, + the offender must pay a fine and suffer the bastinado. There are + four capital punishments: beheading, hanging, strangling and + bastinadoing to death. Beheading is preferred; it is thus + performed: the criminal sits down, and a person behind gives him a + blow or push on the back or shoulder, which makes him turn his + head, and while his attention is thus employed, the executioner +16 strikes it off. Hanging and strangling are seldom used; and + bastinadoing to death, is only inflicted when the crime is highly + aggravated. Capital crimes are murder, robbery with violence, and + stealing cattle. Small offences, as stealing slaves and other + articles, are punished by the bastinado. The landed estates of + criminals are never forfeited.[30] The police is so good, that + merchants reside there in perfect safety. There are no exactions or + extortions practised by government, as in Barbary, nor even any + presents asked for the king. A debtor proving his inability, cannot + be molested[31]; but to the extent of his means he is always + liable; on refusing to pay, he may be imprisoned; but upon proving + his insolvency before the judge, he is discharged, though always + liable if he should have means at any future time. Watchmen patrole +17 in the night with their dogs; others are stationed in particular + places, as the market-place and the _kasserea_, or square, where + the merchants have their shops. Guards are placed at the king's + palace. Capital crimes are tried by the king: smaller offences by + inferior magistrates. The council sit with the king, every man + according to his rank; it consists of the principal officers of his + household; he asks _their_ opinion, but unless they are unanimous, + decides according to his own. There are always five or six judges + sitting in the king's court for the general administration of + justice. The king is understood to have no power of altering the + laws: if the council are unanimous, the king never decides against + them.[32] + + [Footnote 30: But go to the next heir.] + + [Footnote 31: This is the written Muhamedan law: the insolvent + is always liable, but cannot be arrested or imprisoned whilst + he remains insolvent, but continues always liable for the debt + if he afterwards becomes solvent. The present Emperor of + Marocco has lately published an edict. Hearing that his Jew + subjects in London frequently became bankrupts, or made + compositions with their creditors, has enacted, that all, + persons in his dominions who live by buying and selling, shall + pay their just debts; but if unable, their brethren, or + relations shall pay their creditors for them. If _they_ are + unable, the insolvent is to receive a beating every morning at + sunrise, to remind him of his defalcation. This law was enacted + at Fas in 1817, and since then, I am informed, no bankruptcy + has happened in that great commercial city.] + + [Footnote 32: This is a custom derived from Muhamedan + governments.] + + A slave is entirely at his master's disposal, who may put him to + death without trial; yet the slave may complain to the council of + ill-usage, and if the complaint be well-founded, his master is + ordered to sell him. The slaves are always foreign; a native cannot + be made a slave. There are three reasons for which a slave may be + entitled to freedom: _want of food, want of clothes, and want of + shoes_: an old slave is frequently set at liberty, and returns to + his own country. The children of slaves are the property of their + master. Slaves cannot marry without the consent of their masters. + The master of the female slave generally endeavours to buy the male + to whom she is attached.[33] + + [Footnote 33: Many conscientious Muhamedans, in purchasing + slaves, calculate how many years' service their purchase money + is equal to. Thus, if a man pays a servant twenty dollars + a-year for wages, and he gives 100 dollars for a slave, he + retains the slave five years, when, if his conduct has been + approved, he often discharges him from servitude. The period + for liberating slaves in this manner is however quite optional, + and admits of great latitude; neither is there any compulsion + in the master. I have known instances of a slave being + liberated after a few years of servitude; and his master's + confidence has been such that he has advanced him money to + trade with, and has allowed him to cross the desert to + Timbuctoo, waiting for the repayment of his money till his + return. This is often the treatment of Muhamedans to slaves! + how different from that practised by the Planters in the West + India Islands!!!] +18 + SUCCESSION TO PROPERTY. + + Upon the decease of a native, the first claim is that of his + creditors; the next is that of his widow, who is entitled to the + dower[34] promised by her husband to her father, if, not already + paid, and to one-eighth of the remainder; the rest is divided among + the children. A son's share is double that of a daughter. If they + agree, the land may be sold, if not, it must be divided as above. + Of lands and houses, nothing is sold till the children arrive at + the age of discretion; when each is entitled to his share, the rest + being unsold till the others are of age in turn. This age is not +19 fixed at so many years, but the period of discretion is determined + by the relations, upon oath, before a magistrate: there is hardly + any man that knows his own age. The father may dispose of his + property by will, as far as regards the property of his children, + but he cannot divest his wife of her rights; if a wife dies without + a will, her children succeed. Wills are not written; the guardian + appointed by the father takes care of the property of the deceased, + and employs in trade, and lends out the money for the benefit of + his children. Relations succeed if there are no children; and if + there are no relations, the king takes all but the wife's share. + The wife's relations are not considered as the husband's relations. + Children of concubines inherit equally with those of the wife. If a + man have two children by a concubine, she becomes free at his + death, otherwise she remains a slave. She is entitled, having + children, to an eighth of the property. + + [Footnote 34: The husband always stipulates to pay the father + of his wife a certain sum: this is the Muhamedan dower.] + + MARRIAGE. + + A man agrees to pay a certain price to the father of his wife, and + witnesses are called to support the proof of the contract: the girl + is sent home, and at night a feast is made by the husband for his + male friends; by the wife for her female friends. + + Rape is punished by death. Adultery is not punishable by the law, + nor is it a ground for divorce. A husband may always put away his +20 wife, but if without sufficient legal ground, he must pay her + stipulated dower. Abusive language is a sufficient ground of + divorce, but adultery is not. The dower is the price originally + agreed upon with the father; and if it has been already paid (which + it seldom is), she has no further claim upon the husband, though + put away without sufficient ground. Her clothes, jewels, &c. given + to her by her relations are her own property. A father generally + gives the daughter in jewels, &c. a present double the value of + that given him by the husband. A man can have but one wife, but may + keep concubines. Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by law. + The law says, "a woman's flesh is her own, she may do with it what + she pleases." Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his niece, + but not his daughter. + + The people of Timbuctoo are not circumcised. + + TRADE. + + Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the country of the blacks, + and even for Marocco and Alexandria. + + The principal articles of merchandise are tobacco, kameemas[35], + beads of all colours for necklaces, and cowries, which are bought +21 at Fas by the pound.[36] Small Dutch looking glasses, some of which + are convex, set in gilt paper frames. They carry neither swords, + muskets, nor knives, except such as are wanted in the caravan. At + the entrance of the desert they buy rock-salt[37] of the Arabs, who + bring it to them in loads ready packed, which they carry as an + article of trade. In their caravan there were about 500 camels, of + which about 150 or 200 were laden with salt. The camels carry less + of salt than of any other article, because (being rock-salt) it + wears their sides. They pay these Arabs from twenty to fifteen + ounces[38] of Barbary money per load. An ounce of Barbary is worth + about _6d._, and a ducat is worth about _5s._ sterling. They sell + this salt at Timbuctoo upon an average at 50 per cent. profit; it + is more profitable than linen. They take no oil from Barbary to + Timbuctoo as they are supplied from other places with fish-oil used + for lamps but not for food; they make soap with the oil. The + returns are made in gold-dust, slaves, ivory, and pepper; gold-dust + is preferred and is brought to Timbuctoo from Housa in small + leather bags. He bought one of these bags of gold-dust and pieces + of rings for 90 Mexican dollars, and sold it at Fas for 150. The + merchants bring their gold from Timbuctoo in the saddle-bags, in +22 small purses of different sizes one within the other. The bag which + Shabeeny purchased was bought at Housa, where it sells for seven or + eight ducats cheaper than at Timbuctoo. On articles from Marocco + they make from thirty to fifty per cent. clear profit. Cowries and + gold-dust are the medium of traffic. The shereefs and other + merchants generally sell their goods to some of the principal + native merchants, and immediately send off the slaves, taking their + gold-dust with them into other countries. The merchants residing at + Timbuctoo have agents or correspondents in other countries; and are + themselves agents in return. Timbuctoo is visited by merchants from + all the neighbouring black countries. Some of its inhabitants are + amazingly rich. The dress of common women has been often worth 1000 + dollars. A principal source of their wealth is lending gold-dust + and slaves at high interest to foreign merchants, which is repaid + by goods from Marocco and other countries, to which the gold-dust + and slaves are carried. They commonly trade in the public market, + but often send to the merchant or go to his house. Cowries in the + least damaged are bad coin, and go for less than those that are + perfect. There are no particular market days; the public market for + provisions is an open place fifty feet square, and is surrounded by + shops.[39] The Arabs sit down on their goods in the middle, till +23 they have sold them. The pound weight of Timbuctoo is about two + ounces heavier than the small pound of Barbary, which weighs twenty + Spanish dollars; they have also half and quarter pounds; by these + weights is sold milk, rice, butter, &c. as well as by the measure. + The weights are of wood or iron under the inspection of a + magistrate called in Barbary _m'tasseb, i.e._ inspector of weights + and measures, and if the weights are found deficient, he punishes + the offender immediately; they have also a quintal or cwt. They + have a wooden measure called a _m'hoad_[40], equal to the small + _m'hoad_ of Barbary, where a _m'hoad_ of wheat weighs about 24 lb. + Both the weights and measures are divided into 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and + 1/16. + + [Footnote 35: _Kameema_ is the Arabic word for the linen called + _plattilias_. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at + Timbuctoo.] + + [Footnote 36: Called, in Amsterdam, _Velt Spiegels_, and in + Timbuctoo, _Murraih de juah_.] + + [Footnote 37: This salt is bought at Tishet, at Shangareen, and + at Arawan, in the south part of Sahara; for which see the Map + of Northern and Central Africa, in the new Supplement to the + Encyclopaedia Britannica, Article _Africa_.] + + [Footnote 38: _Okia_ is the Arabic name for this piece of + money.] + + [Footnote 39: Similar to the corn-market at Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 40: The _m'hoad_ is no longer used in Barbary. There + is a _krube_, of which sixteen are equal to a _saa_, which, + when filled with good wheat, weighs 100 lbs. equal to 119 lbs. + English weight.] + + MANUFACTURES. + + The black natives are smiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, and + masons, but not weavers. The Arabs in the neighbourhood are + weavers, and make carpets resembling those of Fas and of Mesurata, + where they are called telisse[41]; they are of wool, from their own + sheep, and camels' hair. The bags for goods, and the tents, are of + goats' and camels' hair; there are no palmetto trees in that + country. Their thread[42], needles, scissors, &c. come from Fas: +24 most of their ploughs they buy of the Arabs near the town, who are + subject to it. Some are made in the town. These Arabs manufacture + iron from ore found in the country, and are good smiths. They make + iron bars of an excellent quality. They tan leather for soles of + shoes very well, but know nothing of dressing leather in oil: the + upper leather comes from Fas[43]; their wooden combs[44] and spoons + come from Barbary; they have none of ivory or horn. No lead is + brought from Barbary; he thinks they have lead of their own. The + best shoes are brought from Fas. + + [Footnote 41: _Telissa_, sing.; _Telisse_, plur.] + + [Footnote 42: To Fas they are brought from England through + Gibraltar and Mogodor.] + + [Footnote 43: Leather is also imported from Marocco, and from + Terodant in South Barbary.] + + [Footnote 44: Wooden combs are imported from Marseilles to + Mogodor.] + + HUSBANDRY. + + The country is well cultivated, except on the side of the desert. + They have rice, _el bishna_[45], and a corn which _they_ call + _allila_[46], but in Barbary it is called _drah_: this requires + very rich ground. They make bread of _el bishna_: they have no + wheat or barley. Property is fenced by a bank and a ditch. Dews are + very heavy. Lands are watered by canals cut from the Nile; high + lands by wells, the water of which is raised by wheels[47] worked +25 by cattle, as in Egypt. They have violent thunder-storms in summer, + but no rains: the mornings and evenings, during winter, are cold; + the coldest wind is from the west, when it is as cold as at Fas. + The winter lasts about two months, though the weather is cool from + September to April. They begin to sow rice in August and September, + but they can sow it at any time, having water at hand: he saw some + sowing rice while others were reaping it. _El bishna_ and other + corn is sown before December. _El bishna_ is ripe in June and July; + as are beans. _Allila_ may be sown at all seasons; it requires + water only every eight or ten days. Their beans are like the small + Mazagan beans, and are sown in March; the stalk is short, but full + of pods. The _allila_ produces a small, white, flattish grain. + + [Footnote 45: _El Bishna_. This is the Arabic name for Indian + corn.] + + [Footnote 46: _Allila_, a species of millet.] + + [Footnote 47: A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, as before + described in the note, page 13.] + + PROVISIONS. + + Rice is their principal food, but the rich have wheaten flour from + Fas[48], and make very fine bread, which is considered a luxury. + Bread is also made from the _allila_. They roast, boil, bake, and + stew, but make no _cuscasoe_. Their meals are breakfast, dinner, + and supper. They commonly breakfast about eight, dine about three, + and sup soon after sunset. They drink only water or milk with their + meals, have no palm wine or any fermented liquor; when they wish to +26 be exhilarated after dinner, they provide a plant of an + intoxicating quality called _el hashisha_[49], of which they take a + handful before a draught of water. + + [Footnote 48: And also from Marocco.] + + [Footnote 49: _El Hashisha_. This is the African hemp plant: it + is esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous + vacuity of mind which it produces on those who smoke it: unlike + the intoxication from wine, a fascinating stupor pervades the + mind, and the dreams are agreeable. The _kief_ is the flower + and seeds of the plant: it is a strong narcotic, so that those + who use it cannot do without it. For a further description of + this plant, see Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edit. p. 131 & + 132.] + + ANIMALS. + + Goats are very large, as big as the calves in England, and very + plentiful; sheep are also very large. Cattle are small; many are + oxen. Milk of camels and goats is preferred to that of cows. Horses + are small, and are principally fed upon camels' milk; they are of + the greyhound[50] shape, and will travel three days without rest. + They have dromedaries[51] which travel from Timbuctoo[52] to + Tafilelt in the short period of five or six days. + + [Footnote 50: These horses are the desert horse, or the + _shrubat er'reeh_. See Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edition, p. + 94. to 96.] + + [Footnote 51: These are _El Heirie_, (or _Erragual_), for a + particular description of which see Jackson's Marocco, p. 91. + to 93.] + + [Footnote 52: A distance of upwards of 1200 British miles.] +27 + BIRDS. + + They have common fowls, ostriches, and a bird larger than our + blackbird[53]; also storks, which latter are birds of passage, and + arrive in the spring and disappear at the approach of winter; + swallows, &c. + + [Footnote 53: The starling.] + + FISH. + + They have many extremely good in the Nile; one of the shape and + size of our salmon[54]; the largest of these are about four feet + long. They use lines and hooks brought from Barbary, and nets, like + our casting nets, made by themselves. They strike large fish with + spears and fish-gigs. + + [Footnote 54: The _shebbel_, a species of salmon, a very + delicate fish, but so rich that it is best roasted, which the + Arabs do in a superior manner.] + + PRICES OF DIFFERENT ARTICLES. + + Sheep from ten to sixteen cowries. Cowries[55] are much valued, and + form an ornament of head-dress even for the richest women; they are + highly valued as ornaments. Goats are cheaper than sheep; the best + from eight to twelve cowries. Fowls from four to six cowries each. + Antelopes are very scarce and dear. Camels from thirty to sixty + cowries, according to their size and condition. Ostriches, of which + vast numbers are brought to market, are very cheap; the + fore-feathers[56] are often carried to Tafilelt and Marocco, the +28 inferiors are thrown away. A good slave is worth ten, fifteen, or + twenty ducats of five shillings each; at Fas, they are worth from + sixty to a hundred ducats: females are the dearest. Slaves are most + valuable about twelve years old. They have fish-oil for lamps, but + use neither wax nor tallow for candles. The fish-oil is a great + article of trade, and is brought from the neighbourhood[57] of the + sea by Genawa[58] to Housa, and thence to Timbuctoo; dearer at + Timbuctoo than at Housa, and dearer at Housa than at Genawa. + + [Footnote 55: Cowries are called _El Uda_, and are sold in + Santa Cruz and in South Barbary, at twenty Mexico dollars per + quintal.] + + [Footnote 56: Called _Ujuh_.] + + [Footnote 57: Probably from the coast of Guinea, with which + Housa carries on an extensive trade.] + + [Footnote 58: _i.e._ Guinea; Genawa being the Arabic name for + the coast of Guinea.] + + DRESS. + + The sultan wears a white turban of very fine muslin, the ends of + which are embroidered with gold, and brought to the front; this +29 turban comes from Bengala.[59] He wears a loose white cotton shirt, + with sleeves long and wide, open at the breast; unlike that of the + Arabs, it reaches to the small of the leg; over this a _caftan_[60] + of red woollen cloth, of the same length; red is generally + esteemed. The shirt (_kumja_) is made at Timbuctoo, but the caftan + comes from Fas, ready made; over the caftan is worn a short cotton + waistcoat, striped white, red, and blue; this comes from Bengala, + and is called _juliba_.[61] The sleeves of the caftan are as wide + as those of the shirt; the breast of it is fastened with buttons, + in the Moorish style, but larger. The _juliba_ has sleeves as wide + as the caftan. When he is seated, all the sleeves are turned up + over the shoulder[62], so that his arms are bare, and the air is + admitted to his body. + + [Footnote 59: _i.e._ Bengal.] + + [Footnote 60: A _caftan_, or coat, with wide sleeves, no + collar, but that buttons all down before.] + + [Footnote 61: It is not the cotton cloth which comes from + Bengal that is named _Juliba_, but the fashion or the cut of + it.] + + [Footnote 62: The Moorish fashion.] + + Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of silk, like a pear; + one of the distinctions of royalty. He wears, also, a close red + skull-cap, like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one over each + shoulder, such as the Moors wear round the waist; they are rather + cords than sashes, and are very large; half a pound of silk is used + in one of them. The subjects wear but one; they are either red, + yellow, or blue, made at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, a sash + round the waist, also made at Fas; of these there are two + kinds,--one of leather, with a gold buckle in front, like those of + the soldiers in Barbary; the other of silk, like those of the + Moorish merchants. He wears (as do the subjects) breeches made in + the Moorish fashion, of cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of + woollen in winter, brought ready made from Fas. His shoes are + distinguished by a piece of red leather, in front of the leg, about + three inches wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and gold. +30 + When he sits in his apartment, he wears a dagger with a gold hilt, + which hangs on his right side: when he goes out, his attendants + carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance. + + His subjects dress in the same manner, excepting the distinctions + of royalty; viz. the pear, the sashes on the shoulders, and the + embroidered leather on the shoes. + + The sultana wears a caftan, open in front from top to bottom, under + this a slip of cotton like the kings, an Indian shawl over the + shoulders, which ties behind, and a silk handkerchief about her + head. Other women dress in the same manner. They wear no drawers. + The poorest women are always clothed. They never show their bosom. + The men and women wear ear-rings. The general expense of a woman's + dress is from two ducats to thirty.[63] Their shoes are red, and + are brought from Marocco.[64] Their arms and ankles are adorned + with bracelets. The poor have them of brass; the rich, of gold. The + rich ornament their heads with cowries. The poor have but one + bracelet on the leg, and one on the arm; the rich, two. They also + wear gold rings upon their fingers. They have no pearls or precious + stones. The women do not wear veils. + + [Footnote 63: Equal to from two to thirty Mexico dollars.] + + [Footnote 64: They are manufactured at Marocco.] +31 + DIVERSIONS. + + The king has 500 or 600 horses; his stables are in the inclosure; + the saddles have a peak before, but none behind. He frequently + hunts the antelope, wild ass, ostrich, and an animal, which, from + Shabeeny's description, appears to be the wild cow[65] of Africa. + The wild ass is very fleet, and when closely pursued kicks back the + earth and sand in the eyes of his pursuers. They have the finest + greyhounds in the world, with which they hunt only the + antelope[66]; for the dogs are not able to overtake the ostrich. + Shabeeny has often hunted with the king; any person may accompany + him. Sometimes he does not return for three or four days: he sets + out always after sunrise. Whatever is killed in the chace is + divided among the strangers and other company present; but those + animals which are taken alive are sent to the king's palace. He + goes to hunt towards the desert, and does not begin till distant + ten miles from the town. The antelopes are found in herds of from + thirty to sixty. He never saw an antelope, wild ass, or ostrich + alone, but generally in large droves. The ostriches, like the + storks, place centinels upon the watch: thirty yards are reckoned a + distance for a secure shot with the bow. The king always shoots on +32 horseback, as do many of his courtiers, sometimes with muskets, but + oftener with bows. The king takes a great many tents with him. + There are no lions, tigers, or wild boars near Timbuctoo. They play + at chess and draughts, and are very expert at those games: they + have no cards; but they have tumblers, jugglers, and + ventriloquists, whose voice appears to come from under the armpits. + He was much pleased with their music, of which they have + twenty-four different sorts. They have dances of different kinds, + some of which are very indecent. + + [Footnote 65: The _Aoudad_; for a particular description of + which, see Jackson's Marocco, Chapter V., Zoology, p. 84.] + + [Footnote 66: The Gazel, or Antelope, outruns at first the + greyhound; but after running about an hour the greyhound gains + on him.] + + TIME. + + They measure time[67] by days, weeks, lunar months, and lunar + years; yet few can ascertain their age. + + [Footnote 67: The hour is an indefinite term, and assimilates to + our expression of a good while; it is from half an hour by the dial + to six hours, and the difference is expressed by the word _wahad + saa kabeer_, a long hour; and _wahad saa sereer_, a little hour; + also by the elongation of the last syllable of the last word.] + + RELIGION. + + They have no temples, churches, or mosques, no regular worship or + sabbath; but once in three months they have a great festival, which + lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and is spent in eating + and drinking. He does not know the cause; but thinks it, perhaps, a + commemoration of the king's birth-day; no work is done. They +33 believe in a Supreme Being and another state of existence, and have + saints and men whom they revere as holy. Some of them are + sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary and Turkey; and though + physicians are numerous, they expect more effectual aid in sickness + from the prayers of the saints, especially in the rheumatism. Music + is employed to excite ecstasy in the saint, who, when in a state of + inspiration, tells (on the authority of some departed saint, + generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) what animal must be sacrificed + for the recovery of the patient: a white cock, a red cock, a hen, + an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal is then killed in + the presence of the sick, and dressed; the blood, feathers, and + bones are preserved in a shell and carried to some retired spot, + where they are covered and marked as a sacrifice. No salt or + seasoning is used in the meat, but incense is used previous to its + preparation. The sick man eats as much as he can of the meat, and + all present partake; the rice, or what else is dressed with it, + must be the produce of charitable contributions from others, not of + the house or family; and every contributor prays for the patient. + + DISEASES. + + The winds of the desert produce complaints in the stomach, cured by +34 medicine. They have professed surgeons and physicians. The bite of + a snake is cured by sucking the wound. They have the jlob[68] + violently, for which sulphur from Terodant in Suse is taken + internally and externally. This disorder is sometimes fatal. They + are afflicted also with fevers and agues. Bleeding is often + successful; the physicians prescribe also purgatives and emetics. + Ruptures are frequent and dangerous; seldom cured, and often fatal. + They tap for the dropsy. He never heard of the venereal disease + there. Head-aches and consumptions also prevail. The physicians[69] + collect herbs and use them in medicine. + + [Footnote 68: Probably the itch, called El Hack in Barbary.] + + [Footnote 69: The physicians have a very superior and general + knowledge of the virtues of herbs and plants.] + + MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. + + The nails and palms of the hands are stained red with henna[70], + cultivated there: the Arabs tatoo their hands and arms, but not the + people of Timbuctoo. These people are real negroes; they have a + slight mark on the face, sloping from the eye; the Foulans have a + horizontal mark; the Bambarrahees a wide gash from the forehead to + the chin. Tombs are raised over the dead; they are buried in a + winding-sheet and a coffin: the relations mourn over their graves, + and pronounce a panegyric on the dead. The men and women mix in +35 society, and visit together with the same freedom as in Europe. + They sleep on mattresses, with cotton sheets and a counterpane; the + married, in separate beds in the same room. They frequently bathe + the whole body, their smell would otherwise be offensive; they use + towels brought from India. At dinner they spread their mats and sit + as in Barbary. They smoke a great deal, but tobacco is dear; it is + the best article of trade. Poisoning is common; they get the poison + from the fangs of snakes, but, he says, most commonly from a part + of the body near the tail, by a kind of distillation. Physic, taken + immediately after the poison, may cure, but not always; if deferred + two or three days, the man must die: the poison is slow, wastes the + flesh, and produces a sallow, morbid appearance. It causes great + pain in the stomach, destroys the appetite, produces a consumption, + and kills in a longer or shorter time, according to the strength of + constitution. Some who have taken remedies, soon after the poison, + live 8 or 10 years; otherwise the poison kills in 4 or 5 days. + Physicians prescribe an emetic, the composition of which he does + not know. + + [Footnote 70: A decoction of the herb henna produces a deep + orange die. It is used generally by the females on their hands + and feet: it allays the violence of perspiration in the part to + which it is applied, and imparts a coolness.] + + NEIGHBOURING NATIONS. + + There are no Arabs between Timbuctoo and the Nile; they live on the +36 other side[71], and would not with impunity invade the lands of + these people, who are very populous, and could easily destroy any + army that should attempt to molest them. The lands are chiefly + private property. The Foulans are very beautiful. The Bambarrahs + have thick lips and wide nostrils. The king of Foulan is much + respected at Timbuctoo; his subjects are Muhamedans, but not + circumcised.[72] They cannot be made slaves at Timbuctoo; but the + Arabs steal their girls and sell them; not for slavery, but for + marriage. + + Girls are marriageable very young; sometimes they have children at + ten years old. + + [Footnote 71: North of the town.] + + [Footnote 72: All true Muhamedans are circumcised, so that they + must partake of Paganism if uncircumcised.] + +37 + + JOURNEY + FROM + TIMBUCTOO TO HOUSA. + + + + + Shabeeny, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Housa: and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached the + Nile in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, cultivated + country, abounding in trees, some of which are a kind of oak, + bearing a large acorn[73], much finer than those of Barbary, which + are sent as presents to Spain. Travelling is perfectly safe. They + embarked on the Nile in a large boat with one mast, a sail, and + oars; the current was not rapid: having a favourable wind, on his + return, he came back in as short a time as he went. The water was +38 very red and sweet.[74] The place where they embarked is called + Mushgreelia; here is a ferry, and opposite is a village. As the + current is slow, and they moored every night, they were eight or + ten days sailing down the stream to Housa. They had ten or twelve + men on board, and when it was calm, or the wind contrary, they + rowed; they steered with an oar, the boat having no rudder. He saw + a great many boats passing up and down the river; _there are more + boats_[75] _on this river between Mushgreelia and Housa than + between Rosetta and Cairo on the Nile of Egypt_. A great many + villages are on the banks. There are boats of the same form as + those of Tetuan and Tangiers, but much larger, built of planks, and + have ribs like those of Barbary; instead of pitch or tar, they are + caulked with a sort of red clay, or bole. The sail is of canvas of + flax (not cotton) brought from Barbary, originally from Holland; it + is square. They row like the Moors, going down the stream. + + [Footnote 73: Called El Belute. These acorns are much prized by + the Muhamedans, and are considered a very wholesome fruit.] + + [Footnote 74: The word hellue, in Arabic, which signifies + literally, sweet, here implies that the water was pure and + good.] + + [Footnote 75: See Jackson's Marocco, page 314, 2d or 3d + edition.] + + There is a road by land from Timbuctoo to Housa, but on account of + the expense it is not used by merchants: Shabeeny believes it is + about 5 days' journey. If you go this way, you must cross the river + before you reach Housa. They landed at the port of Housa, distant a + day and a half from the town; their merchandise was carried from + this port on horses, asses, and horned cattle; the blacks dislike + camels; they say, "_These are the beasts that carry us into + slavery_." +39 + The country was rich and well cultivated; they have a plant bearing + a pod called mellochia, from which they make a thick vegetable + jelly.[76] There is no artificial road from Timbuctoo to the Nile; + near the river the soil is miry. Shabeeny travelled from Timbuctoo + to Housa in the hot weather when the Nile was nearly full; it + seldom falls much below the level of its banks; he travelled on + horseback from Timbuctoo to the river, and slept two nights upon + the road in the huts of the natives. One of the principal men in + the village leaves his hut to the travellers and gives them a + supper; in the mean time he goes to the hut of some friend, and in + the morning receives a small present for his hospitality.[77] + + [Footnote 76: The pod of the mellochia, which grows near Sallee + and Rabat, is of an elongated conical form, about two inches + long.] + + [Footnote 77: This is a common custom in West and South + Barbary; they always clear a tent for the travellers.] + + THE RIVER NEEL OR NILE. + + The Neel El Kebeer[78], (that is, the Great Nile,) like the Neel +40 Masser or Nile of Egypt, is fullest in the month of August, when it + overflows in some places where the banks are low; the water which + overflows is seldom above midleg; the banks are covered with reeds, + with which they make mats. Camels, sheep, goats, and horses, feed + upon the banks, but during the inundation are removed to the + uplands. The walls of the huts both within and without are cased + with wood to the height of about three feet, to preserve them from + the water; the wells have the best water after the swelling of the + river. The flood continues about ten days; the abundance of rice + depends on the quantity of land flooded. He always understood that + the Nile empties itself in the sea, the salt sea or the great + ocean. There is a village at the port of Housa where he landed, the + river here is much wider than where he embarked, and still wider at + Jinnie. He saw no river enter the Nile in the course of his voyage. + It much resembles the Nile of Egypt, gardens and lands are + irrigated from it. Its breadth is various; in some places he thinks + it narrower than the Thames at London, in others much wider; at the + landing place they slept in the hut of a native, and next morning + at sunrise set off for Housa, where they arrived in twelve hours + through a fine plain without hills; the country is much more + populous than between Timbuctoo and the Nile. Ferry boats are to be + had at several villages. + + [Footnote 78: Properly Enneel. El is the article; but when it + precedes a word beginning with a letter called a labial, it + takes the sound of that letter. This error is committed + throughout a book, lately published, entitled Specimens of + Arabic Poetry, by J.D. Carlyle, Professor of Arabic in the + University of Cambridge, 2d edition p. 53, Abdalsalam, instead + of Abdassalum; p. 59, Ebn Alrumi, instead of Ebn Arrumi; and p. + 65, Alnarhurwany, for Annarhurwany, &c. &c.] +41 + HOUSA. + + They did not see the town till they came within an hour from it, or + an hour and a half; it stands in a plain. Housa is south-east[79] + of Timbuctoo, a much larger city and nearly as large as London. He + lived there two years, but never saw the whole of it. It has no + walls; the houses are like those of Timbuctoo, and form irregular + lanes or streets like those of Fas or Marocco, wide enough for + camels to pass with their loads. The palace is much larger than + that of Timbuctoo; it is seven or eight miles in circumference and + surrounded by a wall; he remembers but four gates, but there may be + more; he thinks the number of guards at each gate is about 50; it + is in that part of the town most distant from the Nile. The houses + are dark coloured and flat roofed. He thinks Cairo is about + one-third larger than Housa; the streets are much wider than those + of Timbuctoo; the houses are covered with a kind of clay of + different colours but never white. They have no chalk or lime in + the country. + + [Footnote 79: Rather south-east by east.] + + GOVERNMENT. + + If the king has children, the eldest, if a man of sense and good + character, succeeds; otherwise, one of the others is elected. The +42 grandees of the court are the electors. If the eldest son be not + approved, they are not bound to elect him; he has, however, the + preference, and after him the other sons; but the choice of the + council must be unanimous, and if no person of the royal line be + the object of their choice, they may elect one of their own body. + The members of the council are appointed by the king; he chooses + them for their wisdom and integrity, without being limited to rank: + the person appointed cannot refuse obedience to the royal mandate. + The council consists of many hundreds. The governor who controls + the police lives in the centre of the town. + + THE ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE + + Is very similar to that of Timbuctoo, except that the king is + perfectly despotic; and though he consults his council, he decides + as he thinks proper. The governor administers justice in small + affairs; but, in important cases, he refers the parties to the king + and council, of which he is himself a member. No torture, is ever + inflicted. The governor employs a great number of officers of + police at a distance from the town. If robberies are committed, the + person robbed must apply to the chief of the district, who must + find or take into custody the offender, or becomes himself liable + to make compensation for the injury sustained.[80] + + [Footnote 80: This is also the law in West Barbary. When a + robbery is committed, the district where it has been committed + is made liable for double the amount; the half goes to the + person robbed, and the other half to the treasury. The good + effects of this law is admirable, insomuch that it has almost + annihilated robbery: but when one has actually been committed, + the energy and exertion of every individual is directed to + discover the depredator, and they seldom fail to discover him. + The fear of the penalty also makes them very cautious who they + admit among them; and very inquisitive respecting the character + and vocation of all, strangers in particular, who sojourn in + their country!!] +43 + LANDED PROPERTY. + + They have a class of men whose peculiar business it is to adjust + all disputes concerning land; the office is hereditary; _the + offender_ pays the compensation, and also the fees of these + officers; _the innocent_ pays nothing. When lands are bought, these + officers measure them. There is a plant resembling a large onion, + which serves as a land-mark; if these are removed, (which cannot be + easily done without discovery) reference is had to the records of + the sale, of which every owner is in possession; they express the + sum received; the quantity, situation, and limits of the land. + These are given by the seller, and are written in the language and + character of the country, very different from the Arabic. The same + letters are used at Timbuctoo. They write from right to left. The + character[81] was perfectly unintelligible to Shabeeny. Children, +44 whose father is dead, succeed to the same portion of their + grandfather's property as their father would, had _he_ out outlived + _his_ father, though there are other issue of the grandfather. The + rules of succession are the same as at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 81: Possibly the ancient Carthaginian character.] + + Persons of great landed property, of which there are many, employ + agents or stewards; they let the lands, and the rents are paid + sometimes in kind, and sometimes in gold-dust and cowries. Houses + are let by the month. He paid four Mexico dollars per month; but a + native would not have paid above two for the same house. A man who + has five Mexico dollars[82] a month, is esteemed in easy + circumstances; those, however, who have 30 or 40 per month, are + common. + + [Footnote 82: Ten dollars worth of rice is sufficient for the + daily food of a man a twelve-month.] + + REVENUES. + + The king has 2 per cent. on the produce of the land. The revenues + arise from the same sources as at Timbuctoo, but are much larger. + Foreign merchants pay nothing, as the Housaeens think they ought to + be encouraged. The revenue is supposed to be immense. + + ARMY. + + He cannot precisely tell the number of troops, but believes the + king can raise 70,000 to 80,000 horse, and 100,000 foot. The horses +45 are poor and small, except a few kept for the king's own use. He + has no well-bred mares. Their arms are the same as at Timbuctoo; + the muskets, which are matchlocks, are made in the country. They + are very dexterous in throwing the lance. Gunpowder is also + manufactured there; the brimstone is brought from Fas; the charcoal + they make; and he believes they prepare the nitre.[83] Their arrows + are feathered and barbed; the bows are all cross-bows, with + triggers; the arrows, 20 to 40 in a quiver, are made of hides, and + hang on the left side. The king never goes to war in person. The + soldiers have a peculiar dress; their heads are bare; but the + officers have a kind of turban; the soldiers have a shirt of coarse + white cotton, and yellow slippers; those of the officers are red. + Some have turbans adorned with gold. They carry their powder in a + leather purse; the match, made of cotton, is wound round the gun; + they have flint and steel in a pouch, and also spare matches. + + [Footnote 83: The saltpetre and brimstone are probably derived + from Terodant in Suse, where both abound.] + + THE TRADE + + Is similar to that of Timbuctoo; in both places foreign merchants + always employ agents, or brokers, to trade to advantage; a man + should reside sometime before he begins. Ivory is sold by the + tooth; he bought one, weighing 200 lb. for five ducats (1_L. 5s._); + he sold it in Marocco for 25 ducats, per 100 lb.; it is now[84] + worth 60. + + [Footnote 84: A.D. 1795.] +46 + The king cannot make any of his subjects slaves. They get their + cotton from Bengala.[85] They have no salt, it comes from a great + distance, and is very dear. Goods find a much better market at + Housa than at Timbuctoo. There are merchants at Housa from Timboo, + Bornoo, Moshu, and India; the travelling merchants do not regard + distance. From Timboo and other great towns he has heard, and from + his own knowledge can venture to assert, that they bring East India + goods. Gold-dust, ivory, and slaves are the principal returns from + Housa. The people of Housa have slaves from Bornoo, Bambarra, + Jinnie, Beni Killeb[86] (sons of dogs), and Beni Aree (sons of the + naked); they are, generally, prisoners of war, though many are + stolen when young, by people who make a trade of this practice. The + laws are very severe against this crime; it requires, therefore, + great cunning and duplicity; no men of any property are ever guilty + of it. The slave stealers take the children by night out of the + town, and sell them to some peasant, who sells them to a third, and + so from hand to hand, till they are carried out of the country; if + this practice did not exist, there would be few slaves for the + Barbary market. Beyond the age of fourteen or fifteen, a slave is +47 hardly saleable in Barbary. Few merchants bring to Housa above two + or three slaves at a time; but there are great numbers of merchants + continually bringing them. His own slave was a native of Bambarra, + and was brought very young to Timbuctoo. Slaves are generally + stupid; but his, on the contrary, was very sensible; he understood + several languages, particularly Arabic; he bought him as an + interpreter; he would not have sold publicly for above twenty + ducats; but he gave 50 for him; his master parting with him very + reluctantly. He bought two female slaves at Housa, at 15 ducats + each.[87] The value of slaves has since then doubled in Barbary; he + does not know the present[88] price at Timbuctoo. At Timbuctoo not + ten slaves in the hundred bought there, are females; when bought, + the merchant shuts them up in a private room, but not in chains, + and places a centinel at the door: when the confidence of any of + them is supposed to be gained, they are employed as centinels. + Housa having a great trade, is much frequented by people from + Bambarra, Foulan, Jinnie, and the interior countries. + + Manufactures and husbandry are similar to those at Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 85: Bengal, or the East Indies.] + + [Footnote 86: Properly Ben Ekkilleb, or Hel Ekkileb, i.e. the + canine-race. These are described to be swift of foot and low of + stature, having a language peculiar to themselves.] + + [Footnote 87: About the 1790th year of the Christian era.] + + [Footnote 88: In the year 1795.] + + CLIMATE. + + The hot winds blow from the east; the summer is hotter than in +48 Marocco, and hotter at Timbuctoo than at Housa. The cold winds are + from the west: the morning fog is great. He never saw it rain at + Housa, in the course of two years; he says it never rains there. + Scarcity is never known. A considerable part of their provisions is + brought from the banks of the Nile; the river, when overflowing, + never reaches above half way from its common channel towards Housa. + They have excellent wells in their houses, but no river near the + town. + + ZOOLOGY. + + He saw no camels at Housa, but heard, they use them to fetch gold, + and cover their legs with leather, to guard them from snakes. They + have dogs and cats, but no scorpions or snakes in their houses. + Lice, bugs, and fleas abound. He saw no wild animals or fowl in the + neighbourhood of Housa. + + DISEASES. + + Physicians agree with the patient for his cure. No cure no pay. The + prevailing diseases are colds and coughs. + + RELIGION. + + The same as at Timbuctoo; the poorer classes, as in most countries, + have many superstitious notions of spirits, good and bad, and are + alarmed by dreams, particularly, the slaves, some of whom cannot + retain their urine in the night, as he thinks, from fear of +49 spirits, they take them often upon trial when they buy them, and if + they have this defect, a considerable deduction is made in the + price. A man possessed by a good spirit is supposed to be safe + amidst 10,000 shot. A man guilty of a crime, who in the opinion of + the judge is possessed by an evil spirit, is not punished! He never + heard of a rich man being possessed. + + PERSONS. + + They are of various sizes, but the tallest man he ever saw was at + Housa. The city being very large, he seldom had an opportunity of + seeing the king, as at Timbuctoo. He saw him but twice in two + years, and only in the courts of justice; he was remarkable for the + width of his nostrils, the redness of his eyes, the smoothness of + his skin, and the fine tint of his perfectly black complexion. + + DRESS. + + Like that of Timbuctoo, their turbans are of the finest muslin. The + sleeves of the soldiers are small, those of the merchants wide. The + former have short breeches, the latter long. The officers dress + like the merchants, each according to his circumstances. The caftan + is of silk, in summer, brought from India; instead of the silk + cords worn by the king of Timbuctoo, the king of Housa wears two + silk sashes, three fingers broad, one on each shoulder; they are +50 richly adorned with gold; in one hangs his dagger, and when he + rides out, his sword in the other; he wears not the silk pear in + his turban, as does the king of Timbuctoo. The front of his turban + is embroidered with gold. + + BUILDINGS. + + The houses are like those at Timbuctoo, but many much larger. They + have no wind or water-mills, but they have stone mills, turned by + horses. + + MANNERS. + + They never bow. An inferior kisses the hand of a superior; to an + equal he nods the head, gives him his hand and asks him how he + does. The women do the same. + + The general body are honest and benevolent, the lower class is + addicted to thieving. They are very careful of children, to prevent + their being stolen. Snakes do not frequent cultivated lands, so + that animals are not there in danger from them. The people of + Timbuctoo and Housa resemble each other in their persons and in + their manners. They castrate bulls, sheep, and goats, but never + horses. Supper is the principal meal. They do not use vessels of + brass or copper in cookery; they are all of earthenware. At sunset + the watchmen are stationed in all parts of the town, and take into + custody all suspected or unknown persons. They have lamps made of + wood and paper; the latter comes from Fas. Women of respectability +51 are attended by a slave when they walk out or visit, which they do + with the same freedom as in Europe. The women ride either horses or + asses, they have no mules; the men commonly prefer walking, they + are strong and seldom sensible of fatigue, which he attributes to + their having a rib more than white men. Some bake their own bread, + others buy it, as in England. They make leavened bread of + allila[89] and bishna; the cattle-market is within the city, in a + square, appropriated to this purpose. There are a great many rich + men, some by inheritance, others by trade. Every morning the doors + of the rich are crowded with poor, the master sends them food, + rice, milk, &c. They have names for every day. They make their own + pipes for smoking, the tubes are of wood. They have songs, some + with chorus, and some sung by two persons in alternate stanzas. + They have the same feasts once a quarter as at Timbuctoo. The king + has but one wife, but many concubines. The favourite slaves of the + queen of Housa are considered as superior to the queen of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 89: Millet and Indian corn.] + + GOLD. + + The ground where it is found is about sixteen miles from Housa. + They go in the night with camels whose legs and feet are covered to + protect them against snakes, they take a bag of sand, and mark with +52 it the places that glitter with gold; in the morning they collect + where marked, and carry it to refiners, who, for a small sum, + separate the gold. There are no mountains or rivers near the spot, + it is a plain without sand, of a dark brown earth. Any person may + go to seek gold; they sell it to the merchants, who pay a small + duty to the king. The produce is uncertain; he has heard that a + bushel of earth has produced the value of twelve ducats, three + pounds sterling, of pure gold. They set out from Housa about two + o'clock in the afternoon, arrive about sun-set, and return the next + day seeking for gold during the whole night. + + LIMITS OF THE EMPIRE + + Beyond Timboo, on the north side of the Nile, are very extensive. + Afnoo is subject to the king of Housa, no slaves can be made from + thence. Darfneel is near Afnoo; the latter is on the north side of + the river, nearer to its source, and a great way from Timbuctoo. No + Arabs are found on the banks of the Nile. He supposes the + circumference of the empire to be about twenty-five days' journey; + has heard that many other large towns are dependent upon it, but + does not remember their names. + + The neighbouring countries are Bambarra, Timboo, Mooshee, and + Jinnie; all negroes. He has heard of Bernoo[90] as a great empire. +53 + On the 31st of March, 1790, Shabeenee gave further information, in + the presence of Lord Rawdon[91], Mr. Stuart, and Mr. Wedgewood. Mr. + Wedgewood proposed the questions, and Mr. Dodsworth interpreted. + The following is some of the information, omitting what has been + noticed already. + + Between Timbuctoo and Housa, there is a very good trade. Timbuctoo + is tributary to the king of Housa. The imports into Timbuctoo[92] + are spices, corn, and woollens from Barbary, and linens from the + sea-coast. + + [Footnote 90: Ber Noh, or Bernoh, _i.e._ the country of Noah, + is said by the Africans, to be the birth-place of the patriarch + Noah.] + + [Footnote 91: Now the Marquis of Hastings.] + + [Footnote 92: For a more detailed account of the imports to + Timbuctoo, see Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c.] + + The written character is very large, perhaps half an inch long. The + empire is divided into provinces; the provinces into districts. The + king appoints the governors of both; but the son of the deceased + governor is understood to have the preference. + + They make their pottery by a wheel, but do not glaze it. The wheel + turns upon a pivot placed in a hole in the ground: at top and + bottom are two pieces of wood like a tea-table; the lower, which is + largest, is turned by the foot, and the upper forms the vessel. + When they make a large pot, they put on the top a larger piece: the + pots are dried in the sun or burnt in the fire. The iron mines are + in the desert; the iron is brought in small pieces by the Arabs, +54 who melt and purify it. They cannot cast iron. They use charcoal + fire, and form guns and swords with the hammer and anvil. The + points of their arrows are barbed with iron; the crossbows have a + groove for the arrow. No man can draw the bow by his arm alone, + they have a kind of lever; the bow part is of steel brought from + Barbary, and is manufactured at Timbuctoo. They do not make steel + themselves. + + They inoculate for the small-pox; the pus is put into a dried + raisin and eaten. "_Rooka Dindooka_" is a kind of oath, and means, + by God. They believe only one God. After dinner they use the Arabic + expression, El Hamd Ulillah; praise to be to God.[93] + + They believe the immortality of the soul, and that both men and + women go to paradise; that there is no future punishment; the + wicked are punished in this world. Happiness, after death, consists + in being in the presence of God. They are not circumcised. A + divorce may take place while a woman is pregnant, but she cannot + marry again till delivered. As soon as a woman is divorced, + midwives, women brought up to that profession, examine her to see + whether she is pregnant. + + [Footnote 93: This is the Arabic, or Muhamedan grace after + meat; the grace before meat is equally sententious, viz. + Bismillah, i.e. in the name of God.] + +[Illustration: map of West Barbary] + +55 + + LETTERS + CONTAINING + AN ACCOUNT OF JOURNIES + THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF + WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, + AT DIFFERENT PERIODS, + PERFORMED PERSONALLY BY J.G.J. + + + + + LETTER I. + + _On the opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz in Suse, and + of its Cession by the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to the Dutch._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + (Late British Consul for Senegambia) Eversholt, near Woburn, + Bedfordshire. + + Mogodor, 28th February, 1792. + + The emperor has consented to the proposition of the Dutch + government, to open the port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the + province of Suse, to the commerce of that nation; and I have + finally resolved to establish a house there, so soon as the sultan + Yezzid's order respecting that port shall reach the hands of Alkaid + Aumer ben Daudy, the governor of this port. There are various + political intrigues in agitation, to deter me from going personally +56 to establish the commerce of this most desirable and long-neglected + port of Santa Cruz. The governor anticipates a considerable + diminution in the treasury of Mogodor; and the merchants of this + place anticipate a great diminution of the various articles of + produce of this fine country, seeing that the principal articles of + exportation from the empire of Marocco are produced in the province + of Suse, and in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz. + + The stream of commerce will, therefore, necessarily be converted + from Mogodor to Santa Cruz. The merchants of Fas also, who have + their establishments and connections at Timbuctoo, and in other + parts of Sudan, will resort to Santa Cruz in preference to Mogodor, + for all European articles calculated for the markets of Sudan, the + former port being in the neighbourhood of the desert, or Sahara, + and at a convenient distance from Akka in Lower Suse, the general + rendezvous of the akkaba, (or accumulated caravans,) destined for + the interior regions of Africa or Sudan. This akkaba starts + annually for Timbuctoo, consisting of 2000 or 3000 camels, loaded + with merchandise from Fas, Tetuan, Sallee, Mogodor, Marocco, + Tafilelt, Draha, and Terodant. The port of Santa Cruz is hence +57 aptly denominated _Beb Sudan_, i.e. the gate or entrance of Sudan. + The port of Santa Cruz was formerly farmed by the emperor[94] Muley + Ishmael, to some European power, for 50,000 dollars a-year, as I + have been informed; others say it was purchased of him by his own + Jewish subjects, for the purposes of trade. However this may have + been, no advantage was ever taken of the favourable opportunity + then offered, of opening and securing to Europe an extensive and + lucrative trade with the various countries of Sudan or Nigritia. + + I can account for this omission only by supposing that the interior + of Africa was then less known than even it now is; and that the + merchants then established at Santa Cruz, had there sufficient + advantages in commerce to engage their attention, without examining + into this immense undiscovered mine of wealth! + + [Footnote 94: Great-grandfather of Muley Soliman, the present + emperor, who is denominated Soliman ben Muhamed ben Abdallah + ben Ismael.] +58 + + LETTER II. + + _The Author's arrival at Agadeer or Santa Cruz.--He opens the Port + to European Commerce.--His favourable Reception on landing + there.--Is saluted by the Battery.--Abolishes the degrading Custom + that had been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on + Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the Jews.--Of a + Sanctuary at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever been + considered Holy Ground, and none but Muhamedans had ever before + been permitted to enter the Gates on Horseback._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 7th March, 1792. + + _The emperor's[95] letter ordering the port of Santa Cruz to be + opened to the Dutch_, having reached Mogodor, and having received + my instructions from Webster Blount, Esq. Dutch consul-general to + this empire, to act as agent for him at that port, until my + appointment be ratified and confirmed by the States General, of + which he informs me there is no doubt, I proceeded hither in the + Snell Zee Post, Dirk Morris, master; and after being becalmed off + (Affernie) Cape de Geer, I arrived here the third morning after my + departure from Mogodor. I sent my horses by land; and on our +59 approach to the shore, I discovered them approaching the mountain + on which Santa Cruz stands. Soon after we came to anchor in the + road, the boats came off, and the battery, which is situated about + half-way up the mountain on the western declivity, saluted me with + 8 guns, (the Muhamedans always saluting with an even number.) This + compliment being unexpected, we were about half an hour preparing + to return it, when we saluted the battery with 9 guns. The captain + of the port received me with great courtesy, and was ordered by the + bashaw El Hayanie, governor of Santa Cruz, to pay the most + unqualified attention to my wishes. I landed amidst an immense + concourse of people, assembled on the beach to witness the + re-establishment of their port, most of whom were without shoes, + and very ill clad. + + [Footnote 95: See specimens of Arabic epistolary + correspondence, Appendix, Letter 9th.] + + The most hearty exclamations of joy and approbation were manifested + by the people when I landed; a merchant was come to establish, once + more, that commerce by which the fathers of the present generation + had prospered; and their sons appeared to know full well the + advantages that again awaited their industry, which for 30 years + had not been exercised. I mounted my horse on the beach, amidst the + general acclamations of the people, and ascended the mountain, on + the summit of which is the town. On my arrival at the gate, I was + courteously received by the bashaw's sons; who, however, informed +60 me that the entrance of Santa Cruz was ever considered holy ground, + and that Christians, during its former establishment, always + descended and entered the town on foot, intimating at the same time + that it was expected I should do the same. I had been before + cautioned by Mr. Gwyn, the British consul at Mogodor, not to + expostulate at this request, as it would certainly be required of + me to conform to ancient usages. But I knew too well the + disposition of the people, and the great desire that pervaded all + ranks to have the port established; I therefore turned my horse, + and told the bashaw's sons, that I was come, with the blessing of + God, to bring prosperity to the land, to make the poor rich, and to + improve the condition and multiply the conveniences of the opulent; + that I came to establish commerce for _their_ advantage, not for + mine; that it was indifferent to me whether I returned to Mogodor + or remained with them. The sons of the bashaw became alarmed, and + entreated me, with clasped hands, to wait till they should report + to the bashaw my words and observations. I consented, and soon + after they returned with their father's earnest request that I + should enter a-horseback: old customs, said the venerable old + bashaw when, immediately afterwards, I met him in the street; old + customs are abolished, enter and go out of this town a-horseback or + a-foot, we desire the prosperity of this port, and that its + commerce may flourish; _All the people of Suse hail you as their +61 deliverer, God has sent you to us to turn the desert into_ (jinen + afia) _a fruitful garden; come, and be welcome, and God be with + you._ + + I was conducted to the best house in the town, a house which + belonged to our predecessor, Mr. Grover; and I was informed, that + if any demur had been made by the bashaw respecting my entrance + through the sanctuary or holy ground, it might have caused an + immediate insurrection; so anxious and impatient were all ranks of + people for the new establishment of this eligible port of Suse. + + The privilege thus established, of riding in and out of the town, I + continued; and I procured it immediately afterwards for all + Christians! even masters of ships and common sailors. +62 + + LETTER III. + + _The Author makes a Commercial Road down the Mountain, to + facilitate the Shipment of Goods.--The Energy and Liberality of the + Natives, in working gratuitously at it.--Description of the + Portuguese Tower at Tildie.--Arab Repast there.--Natural Strength + of Santa Cruz, of the Town of Aguzem, and the Portuguese Spring and + Tank there.--Attempt of the Danes to land and build a + Fort.--Eligibility of the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a Commercial + Depot to Supply the whole of the Interior of North Africa with East + India and European Manufactures.--Propensity of the Natives to + Commerce and Industry, if Opportunity offered._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, 20th March, 1792. + + The road up the mountain of Santa Cruz was so dangerous and + impassable, that I undertook to repair it; accordingly, I agreed + with a Shilluh to make it safe and convenient for transporting + goods for shipment; and such was the eager desire of the people for + the establishment of the port, that hundreds brought stones and + assisted gratuitously in the construction of this road; so that + what would have cost in England thousands of pounds, was here + completed for a few hundred dollars. + + The natives of this long-neglected territory were too acute not to + perceive the field of wealth that was thus opened to their +63 industry; they were convinced, from the traditions of their + fathers, of the incalculable benefits that would arise from a + commercial reciprocity; and they were determined to cultivate the + opportunity that was now offered to put them in possession of those + commercial advantages which their fathers had enjoyed before: the + benefits of which they had often related to their children, when + they talked of the prosperity and riches of the country during the + reign of Muley Ismael, when this port was before open to foreign + commerce. Agreeably to these well-founded anticipations, the genial + influence of commerce began, soon after my arrival, to manifest + itself throughout all ranks and denominations of men; _the whole + population visibly improved in their apparel and appearance; new + garments were now becoming common, and were every where substituted + for the rags and wretchedness before witnessed on landing here._ + + About four miles east of Santa Cruz, in a very romantic valley + surrounded by mountains, are found the ruins of a Portuguese tower. + _Tildie_, which is the name of this place, abounds in plantations + of the most delicious figs, grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour, citrons, oranges, water-melons, walnuts, + apricots in great abundance, and peaches, &c. &c. + + I invited a party of Arabs to accompany me to this delightful + retreat, where we dined: the Arabs killed two sheep; one they + roasted whole on a wooden spit, made on the spot; the other they +64 baked whole in an oven made for the purpose, in the following + manner: A large hole was dug in the ground; the inside was + plaistered with clay; after which they put fire in the hole till + the sides were dry; they then put the sheep in, and the top was + covered by clay in the form of an arch, fashioned and constructed + by the hand only; they afterwards made a large trough round this + temporary oven, and filled it with wood, to which they set fire. + The sheep was about three hours preparing in this manner, and it + was of exquisite flavour; the roasted mutton also was equally well + flavoured. No vegetables were served with this repast; for I had + desired that the fare should be precisely according to their own + custom; I therefore declined interfering with the arrangement of + the food. This mode of cooking is in high estimation with + travellers. These people never eat vegetables with their meat. When + they see Europeans eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of + vegetables, they express their surprise, observing that the taste + of the vegetables destroys the taste of the meat; and _vice versa_, + that the taste of the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables! + + The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit of a branch of the + Atlas, by the Portuguese, is enclosed by a strong wall, fortified + with bastions mounting cannon; it is about a mile in circumference. + Half way down the mountain, on the western declivity, opposite the + sea, stands a battery, which defends the town, towards the north, +65 south, and west, at the foot of the mountain. Westward, on the + shore of the sea, stands a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the + natives of this country,) Agurem. There is a copious spring of + excellent water at Agurem, built and ornamented by the Portuguese, + when they had possession of this country, and called by them + _Fonte_, which name the town still retains, and is so called by + Europeans. The royal arms of Portugal are seen, carved in stone, + over the tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water from here, + having none but rain-water in the town, which is collected in the + rainy season, and preserved in subterraneous apartments, called + mitferes[96], one of which is attached to every respectable house, + and contains sufficient for the consumption of the family during + the year. The natural position of Santa Cruz is extremely strong, + perhaps not less so than Gibraltar, though not on a peninsula; and + it might, in the hands of an European power, be made impregnable + with very little expense; it might also be made a very convenient + and most advantageous depot for the establishment of an extensive +66 commerce with the whole of the interior of North Africa. An attempt + of this kind was made about forty or fifty years since, by the + Danes, who anchored with several ships, and landed a mile south of + Agurem; and with stones, all ready cut, and numbered, erected on an + eminence[97], by the dawn of the following day, a battery of twelve + guns. But by a stratagem of the bashaw El Hayanie, who at that time + was bashaw of Suse, they were rendered unable to retain possession + of their fort; their plans were accordingly disconcerted, and the + adventurers retreated, and returned to their ships. + + [Footnote 96: The mitfere under my house at Santa Cruz, + contained, when full, four hundred pipes of water. At the + termination of the rainy season in March, it was generally + about two-thirds full, supplied from the flat roof or terras + during the rainy season. There was always much more than we + could consume, accordingly great quantities were distributed + among the poor, about the close of the season, or the autumn + previous to the next rainy season.] + + [Footnote 97: Called Agadeer Arba.] + + At the south-east extremity of the wall of Santa Cruz there is a + round battery, which protects the town from west to east; and might + be made to protect the valley to the east of the mountain. This + battery, with a little military skill, might be made to protect + every access to the town, not protected by the battery before + mentioned, which is situated about half way up the western + declivity of the mountain, and which commands or secures the fonte, + or spring, against an attack from any hostile force. +67 + + LETTER IV. + + _Command of the Commerce of Sudan._ + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, May 5, 1792. + + If Great Britain were to purchase the port of Santa Cruz of the + emperor, for a certain annual stipend, we should be enabled to + command the whole commerce of Sudan, at the expense of Tunis, + Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt; not at the expense of Marocco, because + an equivalent, or what the emperor would consider as such, would be + given in exchange for it; and we should then supply all those + regions with merchandise, at the first and second hand, which they + now receive through four, five, and six. We should thus be enabled + to undersell our Moorish competitors, and thus draw to our + commercial depot, all the gold-dust, gold-bars, and wrought-gold, + gum-sudan, (commonly called in England, Turkey gum-arabic), ostrich + feathers, and other articles the produce of Sudan; besides the + produce of Suse, viz. gum-barbary, sandrac, euphorbium, and + ammoniac, almonds, olive oil, wine, &c., together with the richest + fruits of every kind. These we should take in barter for our + manufactures. +68 + The road of Santa Cruz is very safe, and the best in the empire of + Marocco; it is defended from the fury of the tremendous gales that + visit this coast in December and January, and which invariably blow + from the south, by a projection of land that extends gradually from + the river Suse to cape Noon, very far westward into the ocean. + During my residence of several years at this summit of Atlas, not + one ship was wrecked or lost; there is plenty of water, and good + anchorage for ships of the line. + + A thousand European troops, directed by a vigilant and experienced + captain, might take the place by a _coup de main_; and the natives, + (after a proper explanation and assurance that trade was the object + of the capture,) would probably become allies of the captors, and + would supply in abundance all kind of provisions. They esteem the + English, and denominate them their brothers.[98] They sorely regret + the loss of trade occasioned by the emperor's restrictions, and + would gladly promote the cultivation of commerce if they had an + opportunity. They have been from time immemorial a trading + generation. + + [Footnote 98: _N'henna u l'Ingleez Khowan_, they say, "we and + the English are brothers."] +69 + + LETTER V. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + My dear sir, + + I have this moment received your favour, dated yesterday, and am + extremely sorry I had not the pleasure of seeing you before your + departure. We might have taken a farewell dinner together. You will + most highly oblige me by communicating to me all the intelligence + you can collect concerning the interior of Africa, more especially + of Timbuctoo; its trade, government, geographical situation, and + the manners and customs of its inhabitants. If you could send me + too, any of its products or manufactures, which may appear to you + curious or interesting, or may serve to shew the state of knowledge + and civilisation in the country, and the progress they may have + made in the arts, in manufactures or commerce, you will confer upon + me a singular favour; the expense of which I will readily repay, + and which I shall be happy to return whenever I can be of use to + you. If ever this region of Africa, which excites so strongly our + curiosity, should be laid open to us, you are, of all the men with + whom I am acquainted, the best qualified, and the most likely to + lead the way to this important discovery. I request you to favour +70 me with your correspondence; let me hear from you as frequently as + possible, without ceremony, and as one who wishes to be considered + as an old friend. When peace returns, I shall certainly take my + station in Senegambia[99], where we may then be fellow-labourers in + the same vineyard. There is no news yet of Park; perhaps you would + like to know how he proceeds; and as I expect to hear of him by the + return of my ship, I will inform you, if you wish it; and, in + short, will keep up a regular correspondence on my part, if you + will do the same on your's. Pray, in what ship do you go? Perhaps, + if you would give me encouragement, I might venture into a little + commercial speculation to Santa Cruz. I heartily wish you a + pleasant voyage, health, and success; and am, with great regard, + + My dear Sir, + + Very truly your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + August 12,1796. + + [Footnote 99: Mr. James Willis had the appointment of consul at + Senegambia, and was then waiting an opportunity of proceeding + thither.] +71 + + LETTER VI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + My dear sir, + + I duly received your letter from Gibraltar, and have made known to + Government the expediency of sending a person to Marocco, to oppose + the influence of the French and Spaniards; but I cannot yet say + with certainty whether the measure will be adopted or not; if it + should, you may rely upon my attention to your interest. I have + given your name to the secretary of state, and have spoken of you + with that distinction, which I think, without any flattery, your + qualifications justly deserve. + + Peace still appears to be at a great distance, since the late + negociations; yet, as nothing is so uncertain as an event of this + kind, it may come upon us, (as the last peace did) like a thief in + the night, when we least expect it. You will have, I have no doubt, + frequent opportunities of procuring information concerning + Timbuctoo, and other places in the interior of Africa. Your + knowledge of the language, customs, and commerce of that continent, + give you advantages which few possess upon this ground; and I + assure you, every kind of information will be greedily received +72 here, concerning those regions; especially that which relates to + their commerce, civilisation, customs, geography, and language. + + I request as a favour that you would write me as often as possible; + exclusive of the interest I take in all that relates to the + politics and commerce of Africa, (particularly of the interior,) to + hear of your own individual welfare, will give me the sincerest + pleasure. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + + Your's very sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. + + No. 67. Harley-street, London, 2d February, 1796. + + We have no letters from Mr. Park, since he left the river Gambia; + but we have heard from others, that he had proceeded in safety + above two-thirds of the journey. We expect soon to hear of his + return. If he succeeds, his fame and fortune will be worthy of + envy. +73 + + LETTER VII. + + _Emperor's March to Marocco.--Doubles the Customs' Duties of + Mogodor.--The Governor, Prince Abd El Melk, with the Garrison and + Merchants of Santa Crux, ordered to go to the Court at + Marocco.--They cross the Atlas Mountains.--Description of the + Country and Produce.--Dangerous Defile in the Mountains through + which the Author passed.--Chasm in the Mountain.--Security of Suse + from Marocco, originating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of + Atlas.--Extensive Plantations of Olives.--Village of Ait + Musie.--Fruga Plains.--Marocco Plains.--Fine Corn.--Reception at + Marocco, and Audience with the Emperor.--Imperial Gardens at + Marocco.--Prince Abd El Melk's magnificent Apparel, reprobated by + the Sultan.--The Port of Santa Cruz, shut to the Commerce of + Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Mogodor.--The Prince banished + to the _Bled Shereef_ or Country of Princes, viz., Tafilelt, of the + Palace at Tafilelt.--Abundance of Dates.--Face of the Country. + --Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees.--Faith and Integrity of + the Inhabitants of Tafilelt.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Mode of + Irrigation.--Attar of Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (Attar + being the Word signifying a Distillation.)--State of Oister Shells, + on the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mogodor and + Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas.--Description of the Author's + Reception on the Road from Marocco to Mogodor.--Of the Elgrored, or + Sahara of Mogodor._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Santa Cruz, March 15, 1797. + + When the emperor Soliman proceeded from Fas with a numerous army to +74 the south, he doubled the export and import duties at Mogodor, + viz., from six to twelve per cent., payable in kind. Those of Santa + Cruz remained as before, but so soon as his imperial majesty + reached Marocco, he sent orders for the prince Abd El Melk, who is + his nephew and governor of Santa Cruz, with the garrison, together + with the merchants, to proceed to Marocco; accordingly we all + departed, the prince having first engaged a revered (fakeer) saint + to accompany the army across the Atlas mountains, the fastnesses of + which it appeared no army would be permitted to pass, without the + protection of this fakeer. We departed about noon, and passed + through the plains of the Arab province of Howara[100], a very fine + country; we pitched our tents at sunset, near a sanctuary, where we + had all kinds of provisions sent to us, in great abundance: we + continued our journey the following morning through the plains, and + about the middle of the day we reached the foot of Atlas. + + This country abounds in extensive plantations of olives, almonds, + and gum trees; some plants of the (_fashook_) gum ammoniac are here + discovered. Vines producing purple grapes of an enormous size and + exquisite flavour: (_dergmuse_) the Euphorbium plant is discovered + in rocky parts of the mountains; and great abundance of worm-seed +75 and stick-liquorice.[101] The indigo plant (_Enneel_) is found + here; as are also pomegranates, of a large size and a most + exquisitely sweet flavour, and oranges. Ascending the Atlas, after + five hours' ride, we reached a table-land, and pitched our tents + near a sanctuary. The temperature of the air is cooler here, and + the trees are of a different character; apples, pears, cherries, + walnuts, apricots, peaches, plums, and rhododendrums, were the + produce of this region. The next morning at five o'clock, the army + struck their tents, and after ascending seven hours more, we met + with another change in vegetation. Leguminous plants began to + appear; pines of an immense size, ferns, _the belute_, a species of + oak, the acorn of which is used as food, and is preferred to the + Spanish chesnut; elms, mountain-ash, _seedra_ and _snobar_, the two + latter being a species of the juniper. After this we passed through + a fine campaign country of four hours' ride: we were informed that + this country was very populous; but our fakeer and guide avoided + the habitations of men. We now began again to ascend these + magnificent and truly romantic mountains, and in two hours + approached partial coverings of snow. Vegetation here diminishes, + and nothing is now seen but firs, whose tops appear above the snow; + the cold is here intense; and it is remarkable, that, the pullets' + eggs that we procured in the campaign country just described, were + nearly twice the size of those of Europe. Proceeding two hours +76 further, we came to a narrow pass, on the east side of which was an + inaccessible mountain, almost perpendicular, and entirely covered + with snow; and on the west, a tremendous precipice, of several + thousand feet in depth, as if the mountain had been split in two, + or rent asunder by an earthquake: the path is not more than a foot + wide, over a solid rock of granite. Here the whole army dismounted, + and many prostrated in prayer, invoking the Almighty to enable them + to pass in safety; but, however, notwithstanding all possible + precaution, two mules missed their footing, and were precipitated + with their burdens into the yawning abyss. There is no other pass + but this, and that of Belawin, which is equally dangerous for an + army; so that the district of Suse, which was formerly a kingdom, + might be defended by a few men, against an invading army from + Marocco of several thousands, by taking a judicious position at the + southern extremity of this narrow path and tremendous precipice, + which is but a few yards in length. Proceeding northward through, + this defile, we continued our journey seven hours, (gradually + descending towards the plains of Fruga, a town of considerable + extent, distant about fifteen miles from the mountains.) Proceeding + two hours further, making together nine hours' journey, the army + pitched their tents, and we encamped on another table-land, on the + northern declivity of Atlas, at the entrance of an immense + plantation of olives, about a mile west of a village, called Ait +77 Musie, a most luxuriant and picturesque country. The village of Ait + Musie contains many Jews, whose external is truly miserable; but + this appearance of poverty is merely political, for they are a + trading and rich people, for such a patriarchal country. The olive + plantations at this place, and in many other parts of this country, + do honour to the agricultural propensity of the emperor Muley + Ismael, who planted them. They cover about six square miles of + ground; the trees are planted in right lines, at a proper distance; + the plantation is interspersed with openings, or squares, to let in + the air. These openings are about a square acre in extent. + + [Footnote 100: migration from this tribe attacked and took the + city of Assouan, in Egypt, some years ago. Vide Burckhardt's + Travels in Nubia.] + + [Footnote 101: This root abounds all over Suse, and is called + by the natives _Ark Suse, i.e._ the foot of Suse: the worm-seed + is called sheh.] + + In travelling through the various provinces of South and West + Barbary, these extensive plantations of olives are frequently met + with, and particularly throughout Suse. It appeared that they were + all planted by the emperor Muley Ismael, whose indefatigable + industry was proverbial. Wherever that warrior (who was always in + the field) encamped, he never failed to employ his army in some + active and useful operation, to keep them from being devoured by + the worm of indolence, as he expressed it. Accordingly wherever he + encamped, we meet with these extensive plantations of olive trees, + planted by his troops, which are not only a great ornament to the + country, but produce abundance of fine oil. The olive plantations + at Ras El Wed, near Terodant in Suse, are so extensive, that one +78 may travel from the rising to the setting sun under their shade, + without being exposed to the rays of the effulgent African sun. + + We remained encamped at Ait Musie[102] three days, amusing + ourselves by hawking with the prince's falconer, and hunting the + antelope. Early in the morning of the fourth day, we descended the + declivity of the Atlas, and travelling eight hours, we reached the + populous town of Fruga, situated in the same extensive plain + wherein the city of Marocco stands. From this village to Marocco, a + day's journey, the country is one continued corn-field, producing + most abundant crops of wheat and barley, the grain of which is of + an extraordinary fine quality, and nearly twice the size of the + wheat produced at the Cape of Good Hope. + + [Footnote 102: Here the prince sent couriers to the emperor, to + announce his approach.] + + On our approach to the metropolis, the emperor sent the princes + that were at Marocco to welcome the prince Abd El Melk. They were + accompanied by 100 cavalry, who saluted our prince with the Moorish + compliment of running full gallop and firing their muskets. These + princes, who were relations of Abd El Melk, son of Abd Salam, shook + hands with him respectively, and then kissed their own. This is the + salutation when friends of equal rank meet. We entered the city of + Marocco at the _Beb El Mushoir_, which is the gate situated near + the palace and place of audience, towards the Atlas mountains. The +79 next day I had an audience of the emperor, who received me in (the + _Jenan En neel_) the garden of the Nile, a small garden adjoining + the palace, containing all the fruits and plants from the Nile[103] + of Egypt. The (_worde fillelly_) Tafilelt-rose grows in great + luxuriance in this garden, resembling that of China; the odour is + very grateful and strong, perfuming the air to a considerable + distance. This is the rose, from the leaves of which the celebrated + (_attar el worde_) _i.e._ distillation of roses is made, vulgarly + called in Europe, _otto_ of roses. + + [Footnote 103: This orthography, _Nile_, has been imported from + France; with the French it is pronounced as we pronounce Neel; + and this is the intelligible pronunciation in Africa.] + + The emperor declared the port of Santa Cruz to be shut; and that no + European merchant of any nation should continue there. He gave me + my choice, either to quit the country, or establish a house at + Mogodor. I entreated a short time to consider which I should + choose, which was readily granted. + + The prince Abd El Melk was magnificent in his apparel, the Emperor + dressed very plain; these were two incompatible propensities, the + latter had probably heard of the prince's extravagance in this + respect, and chose to moralise with him by comparing his own + parsimonious and plain apparel to _his_ costly attire; and + insinuating that the iron buckle to his belt answered every purpose + of a gold one, reprimanded the prince for the extravagance and + vanity of his wardrobe, and acquainted his Highness that the port +80 of Santa Cruz should no longer remain open to European commerce. + The prince remained some days after this notification at Maroco; an + annual stipend was allowed him and he was sent to (the _Bled + Shereef, i.e._ the country of princes, viz.) Tafilelt, and had + apartments allotted him in the Imperial Palace at that place, which + is very magnificent and extensive. It is built of marble collected + for the most part from the _Kaser Farawan_ or ruins of Pharaoh, an + ancient city now in ruins, contiguous to the sanctuary of Muley + Dris Zerone, east of the city of Mequinas, on the western declivity + of the Atlas; this marble was transported across the mountains of + Atlas on camels, a distance of fifteen journies to Tafilelt. The + inhabitants of this part of Bled Eljereed live principally on + dates, which abound so in this country that the fruit of one + plantation is commonly sold for 1000 dollars, producing 1500 camel + load of dates, or 4500 quintals; there are thirty-five species of + this rich fruit, of which the _butube_ is unquestionably the best + and the most wholesome; it is rich, of a fine flavour, and sweet as + honey: the _buscre_ is also good; but so dry and full of saccharine + matter that it resembles a lump of sugar. Undoubtedly if this + country were in the hands of Europeans they would extract sugar, + perhaps as much as 150 lb. from a camel load of dates weighing 300 + lb. The _adamoh_ is the date that is imported to this country; it + is the best for keeping, but at Tafilelt they use it only for the + cattle, considering it an unwholesome kind and heavy of digestion. +81 The country from the eastern declivity of Atlas to Tafilelt, and to + the eastward of Tafilelt, even unto Seginmessa is one continued + barren plain of a brown sandy soil impregnated with salt, so that + if you take up the earth it has a salt flavour; the surface also + has the appearance of salt, and if you dig a foot deep, a brackish + water ooses up. On the approach, to within a day's journey of + Tafilelt, however, the country is covered with the most magnificent + plantations and extensive forests of the lofty date, exhibiting the + most elegant and picturesque appearance that nature, on a plain + surface, can present to the admiring eye. In these forests there is + no underwood, so that a horseman may gallop through them without + impediment. Wheat is cultivated near the river, and honey is + produced of an exquisite quality. The faith and honour of the + (filelly) inhabitants of Tafilelt is proverbial; a robbery has not + been known within the memory of man; they use neither locks nor + keys, having no need of either! + + Having had my audience of leave of the Emperor, I prepared to + proceed to Mogodor, but before I describe the country through which + we passed thither, it may not perhaps be uninteresting to give some + account of the Imperial gardens at Marocco, which are three, the + _Jenan Erdoua_, the _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan En. neel_: the + last is confined to plants brought from the Egyptian Nile. The + _Jenan El Afia_, and the _Jenan Erdoua_, contain oranges, citrons, +82 vines, figs, pomegranates, water and musk melons, all of exquisite + flavour. The orange and fig trees are here as large as a middling + sized English oak. Roses are so abundant at Marocco that they grow + every where, and have a most powerful perfume, insomuch that one + rose scents a large room; all other flowers are in abundance, and + many that are nursed with care in English hot-houses are seen in + the Marocco plains growing spontaneously. These gardens, as well as + others throughout the country, are watered by the Persian or + Arabian wheel, with pitchers fixed to it, which discharge the water + into a trough or tank; as the pitchers rise and turn over their + contents into this tank, the water is communicated to the garden + and inundates the plants. Departing from Marocco to Mogodor, the + first day's journey is through the plains of Sheshawa, a fine + campaign country abounding in corn; the mountains of Sheshawa, + which are higher than any in Great Britain, have strata of oyster + and other shells at the top of them. We encamped at the foot of + these mountains; I had the curiosity to examine the depth of these + strata of shells, and found them several feet deep, and extending + all the way down the mountains. The rivers Sheshawa and Wed Elfees + water these plains. The next day's journey brought us to a + sanctuary, where we met very good entertainment, that is, such as + the country affords, plenty of good provisions and hospitable + treatment. +83 + The next evening we encamped at a place called _Dar El Hage + Croomb_, a very picturesque situation, where we were hospitably + entertained; the Sheik coming to drink tea with me, related the + history of his ancestors and traced his descent through many + generations of warriors, whose dextrous management of the lance was + the burden of the story. The next day, after travelling about six + hours, we arrived at the extremity of the productive country, and + entered _El Grored_, or the desert of sandy hills, which divide the + rocky peninsula of Mogodor, from the cultivated land; this Sahara + consists of loose sand-hills very fatiguing to the horses, and + although not more than three miles in width, we were an hour and a + half in crossing them, before we entered the gate of Mogodor. +84 + + LETTER VIII. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-Street, London, + + My Dear Sir, 12th December, 1797. + + I thank you warmly for your intelligence concerning the interior of + Africa, and beg you will continue to favour me with all the + information you can collect upon this subject. Mr. Park has been + almost as far as Jinnie, but did not reach Timbuctoo; he is now on + his way to England, in an American ship, via America. We are + anxious for his arrival, which may be expected in the course of the + present month; and all the Africani are extremely curious to hear + the detail of his most interesting journey, which we hope will + produce some authentic knowledge, of a considerable part of those + regions, that have hitherto baffled all the ardour and energy of + European enquiry, though they have always excited the curiosity of + the most eminent and enlightened men, both in past and present + times. + + I thank you also for the commercial intelligence you have sent me. + + Do you know whether the emperor of Marocco has any collection of + books? If he has, probably some ancient books, of great value, + might be found among them. +85 + I should consider it as a very great obligation if you could + procure, and send me any book or manuscript in the character and + language of Timbuctoo. We are informed that, besides the Arabic, + they have a character of their own, perfectly different. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Sincerely your's, + + J. WILLIS. + + + _Extract of a Letter to Mr. Jackson, from His Excellency J.M. + Matra, British Envoy to Marocco, &c._ + + Tangier, November 8, 1797. + + I have not yet received any answer from Sir Joseph Banks to the + letter from you, which I sent to him. Should you be able to obtain + any information from Timbuctoo[104], or of the interior of this + country, which would gratify one's curiosity, I will be very + thankful for a slice of it. + + I am ever, dear Jackson, + Most faithfully your's, + JAMES M. MATRA. + + [Footnote 104: All _my information_ respecting Timbuctoo, will + be found in Jackson's Account of Marocco, Chapter XIII.] +86 + + LETTER IX. + + _Custom of visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco.--Journey + of the Merchants thither on that occasion.--No one enters the + imperial Presence without a Present.--Mode of travelling.--The + Commercio.--Imperial Gardens at Marocco.--Audience of the + Sultan.--Amusements at Marocco.--Visit to the Town of + Lepers.--Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers.--Ophthalmia at + Marocco.--Its probable Cause.--Immense Height of the Atlas, east + and south of Marocco.--Mode of visiting at Marocco.--Mode of + eating.--Trades or Handicrafts at Marocco.--Audience of Business of + the Sultan.--Present received from the Sultan_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Mogodor, 1788. + + The emperor having departed from Mequinas where he passed the + winter, to Marocco, his summer residence, it becomes an incumbent + duty for all loyal subjects, to pay their respects to him. All the + bashaws of provinces, south of the river Morbeya, which divides the + northern part of his dominions from the southern, as well as all + the alkaids or governors of towns and districts under the authority + of the bashaws of the provinces, are expected to show their + loyalty, by obtaining permission to present themselves to the + imperial presence; when they give an account of the state of the +87 district which they respectively govern. The bashaw of each + province communicates with the emperor, and determines which of the + alkaids[105] shall have the honour of presenting themselves. On + these occasions, that is, when the emperor comes to Marocco, it is + customary for the merchants of Mogodor to perform the journey to + the metropolis[106] of the south, and to present his imperial + majesty with a present; indeed, it is not the etiquette of this + court for any one to demand an audience (which the lowest subject + in the realm may claim) without being prepared to present + something; so that the poor may have an audience by presenting half + a dozen eggs, or any similar trifle, such as some fruit or flowers; + but no one enters the imperial presence (_khawie_, as they term it, + _i. e._) empty-handed. The routine is this: The European merchants, + together with the house of Guedalla and Co., who are native Jews, + are called _el commercio;_ the commercio, therefore, solicit the + honour of presenting themselves to the emperor, to offer their + congratulations on his arrival; this is acceded to, and the + minister, who is denominated the _talb cadus_, a term designating a + man who disperses orders and communications to every one, writes a +88 letter to the commercio, expressive of the emperor's disposition to + see them, and requesting them to repair to his presence: a guard is + given by the alkaid of Mogodor, and a present _ought_ to be + selected of such articles as are not to be bought at the markets of + the country. A present consisting of such articles, previously + ordered from Europe, and judiciously selected, is better calculated + to gratify the emperor, than ten times the value injudiciously + collected. The merchants accordingly prepared themselves to proceed + to Marocco; some rode mules, some horses, for there are no + carriages in this country; and every individual had his tent and + servants with him. We travelled three days through a fine country, + and reached the city of Marocco the fourth day, in the afternoon, + travelling eight hours each day, at the rate of four miles an hour. + On our approach to the city, we sent an express to the _talb + cadus_, who, by the imperial order, appropriated the emperor's + garden, _jinnen el afia_, for our reception, the pavilion in which + was appropriated to our service; we preferred, however, in this + delightful climate, sleeping in our tents, which we were permitted + to pitch in this beautiful garden. We dined in the _coba_, or + pavilion. The (_talb cadus_) minister paid us a visit, to say that + the emperor requested we would take the following day to rest from + our journey, and at eight o'clock on the following morning, he + would receive us; the present was accordingly prepared, which was +89 carried by four-and-twenty men; every article (the bulky ones + excepted) being enveloped in a Barcelona silk handkerchief. The + emperor was in the (_m'ushoir_) place of audience, on that side of + the city which faces the mountains of Atlas. At our presentation we + did not prostrate ourselves, but bowed, in the European manner; the + emperor said, bono el commercio, a Spanish phrase which he uses in + interviews with Europeans, and which is equivalent to his saying, + you are welcome, merchants. To this we replied, _Allah iberk amer + seedi_, God bless the life of my master. The emperor asked if we + were recovered from the fatigue of our journey, and was quite + affable; he then said, communicate with the effendi[107], and + whatever you want shall be granted to you; for I am disposed to + encourage and (_amel el k'here_) to do good to my merchants. The + master of the audience then came to us, and signified that we might + depart; we made our obeisance, and returned to our habitation. This + was the audience of introduction, which is always short; the second + audience is for business; and the third is the audience of + departure. We remained encamped in the imperial garden a fortnight + before we had another audience; in the mean time we amused + ourselves in riding about the country, and in visiting some of the +90 most respectable inhabitants, among whom was the _cadus_, who has a + noble mansion, replete with every convenience, and a garden in the + centre of it. The rooms of this house were long and narrow, with a + pair of high doors in the centre of the room, through which alone + the light is admitted; the floors were paved with small glazed + tiles, about two inches square, very neatly fitted, and of + different colours; the walls were the same, a mode of building + which in this warm climate imparts a grateful coolness; the + ceilings are painted in the Araberque style, with brilliant + colours. The roofs are of terras, and flat, having an insensible + declivity, just sufficient to give the rain that falls a course, + which falling into the pipes, is received in the (_mitfere_) a + subterraneous cistern, which supplies the family with water the + whole year, till the rainy season returns again. + + [Footnote 105: In each province, or bashawick, there are + several alkaids or governors of districts.] + + [Footnote 106: The city of Fas is the metropolis of the north, + as Marocco is of the south. Mequinas is the court town of the + north, and resembles the Hague, where few reside but such as + are employed in the service of the crown.] + + [Footnote 107: This word was used by the seed, or emperor, in + the presumption that it is understood by Europeans; but _cadus_ + is the Arabic term.] + + There is near to the walls of Marocco, about the north-west point, + a village, called (_Deshira el Jeddam_) i.e. the Village of Lepers. + I had a curiosity to visit this village; but I was told that any + other excursion would be preferable; that the Lepers were totally + excluded from the rest of mankind; and that, although none of them + would dare to approach us, yet the excursion would be not only + unsatisfactory but disgusting. I was, however, determined to go; I + mounted my horse, and took two horse-guards with me, and my own + servant. We rode through the Lepers' town; the inhabitants +91 collected at the doors of their habitations, but did not approach + us; they, _for the most part_, showed no external disfiguration, + but were generally sallow; some of the young women were very + handsome; they have, however, a paucity of eyebrow, which, it must + be allowed, is somewhat incompatible with a beauty; some few had no + eyebrows at all, which completely destroyed the effect of their + dark animated eyes. They are obliged to wear a large straw hat, + with a brim about nine inches wide; this is their _badge of + separation_, a token of division between the clean and unclean, + which when seen in the country, or on the roads, prevents any one + from having personal contact with them. They are allowed to beg, + and accordingly are seen by the side of the roads, with their straw + hat badge, and a wooden bowl before them, to receive the charity of + passengers, exclaiming (_attanie m'ta Allah_) "bestow on me the + property of God;" (_kulshie m'ta Allah_) "all belongs to God!" + reminding the passenger that he is a steward of, and accountable + for the appropriation of his property; that he derives his property + from the bounty and favour of God. When any one gives them money, + they pronounce a blessing on him; as (_Allah e zeed kherik_) "may + God increase your good," &c. The province of Haha abounds in + lepers; and it is said that the Arganic[108] oil, which, is much + used in food throughout this picturesque province, promotes this + loathsome disease! + + [Footnote 108: This oil, which is excellent, and generally used + for frying fish, should be thus prepared, according to the + learned Doctor Barata, who was pensioned physician to the + _Commercio_ of Mogodor, by which preparation it becomes + perfectly wholesome, and deprived of any leprous or other bad + quality: Take a quart of Argan oil, and put in it a large onion + cut in slices; when it boils add a piece of crumb of bread, + equal in size to an onion, then let it boil a few minutes more, + take it off, let it cool, and strain the oil through a sieve, + and bottle it for daily use.] + +92 + The chain of Atlas, east of Marocco, continually covered with snow, + gives a pleasant coolness to the air of the city, in the summer + season, particularly in the morning and evening; the coolness is + generally said, however, to produce ophthalmia.[109] These + mountains are immensely high, and their magnitude makes them appear + not more than five miles from the city. It is, however, a day's + journey to the foot of them, after which the ascent is so gradual, + that it takes two days more to reach the snow. This part of the + chain of Atlas, east of the city of Marocco, is seen at sea, twenty + miles west of Mogodor, which latter place is about 120 miles from +93 Marocco; it is 35 miles from the city of Marocco to the foot of + Atlas; and it is two days' journey from the foot of Atlas to the + snow, which constantly covers the summit of these immense + mountains. They are thus seen at a distance of 245 miles: + + 20 miles from land at sea. + 120 do. Mogodor to Marocco. + 35 do. Marocco to the foot of + the mountains. + 70 do. the foot of Atlas to the snow. + --- + Seen at 245 miles distance. + --- + + [Footnote 109: Ophthalmic disorders prevail among the Jews of + Marocco, but are seldom seen among the Moors. The Jews live in + great filth at Marocco; the dung-hills and ruins are in some + places as high as the houses. The Muhamedan doctrine does not + allow the Moors to neglect personal cleanliness, which, among + these people, is a cardinal virtue; and this, I presume, is the + cause of their being, in a great measure, exempt from + ophthalmia, whereas the Jews, on the contrary, are generally + affected with it.] + + In this calculation, the direct distance in the ascent of the + mountain, is less than the travelling distance; but without taking + notice of the distance from the border of the snow to the summit of + this lofty mountain, which is said to be another day's journey, the + one may balance the other: we may therefore calculate 70 miles as + the direct longitudinal distance, although I am persuaded it is + much more from the foot to the summit of that part of the Atlas + which is visible at sea. + + H.T. Colebrooke, Esq., in a paper inserted in the Asiatic + Transactions, vol. xii. asserts, that it requires an elevation of + 28,000 feet, for an object to be visible at the distance of 200 +94 geographical miles; now 245 English miles are equal to 211-1/2 + geographical miles; consequently, if Mr. Colebrooke be correct, the + summit of Atlas, east of Marocco and Dimenet, which is seen at a + distance of 211-1/2 geographical miles, must be 29,610 feet high, + or above five miles and a half. + + Again, the chain of Atlas in Lower Suse, which lies east of Elala, + and which is constantly covered with snow, is situated three days' + journey, horse travelling, east-south-east from Elala, in Lower + Suse; Elala is three days' journey from Santa Cruz, horse + travelling, making together 180 miles: add for distance from the + foot of the Elala mountains to the snow, 60 miles, and the Atlas in + Lower Suse will be seen at the distance of 240 miles, or 207 + geographical miles. + + Thus, from Santa Cruz to the } + foot of the Atlas mountains, in the} 180 miles. + district of Elala, in Lower Suse } + + Add for distance from the foot } + of the Elala mountains to the } 60 + snow } + --- + So that the Atlas in Lower Suse, } + being seen at a distance of } 240 + + Or 207 geographical miles, must have an altitude of 28,980 feet. + + On the north side of the city of Marocco is a gate called _Beb El + Khummes_, and near it is held, every Thursday, a market called soke + _El Khummes_; at which immense quantities of horses, camels, mules, + asses, oxen, sheep, goats, wheat and barley are sold; oils, gums, +95 almonds, dates, raisins, figs, bees' wax, honey, skins, &c. &c. + &c.; also, slaves, male and female. Such a horse as would cost in + London 50_l._, sells here for 50 dollars; a good mule sells for the + same, viz. 50 dollars; a bull, 12 dollars; a cow, 15 dollars; + sheep, a dollar and a half, each; a goat, a dollar. Very fine large + grained wheat, which increases one-fifth in the grinding, sells at + one dollar per saa, or about half a dollar per Winchester bushel. + The slaves are conducted through the market by the auctioneer + (_delel_), who exclaims, occasionally, (_khumseen reeal aal + zeeada_, i.e.) "50 dollars on the increase," till he finds no one + will advance; when he goes to the owner and declares the price + offered; the owner then decides if he will sell or not; if he + sells, the money is paid immediately, but if not, he takes his + slave away with him, and tries him again the next market-day, or + waits in expectation that this wretched article of trade will rise + in value. + + A stranger passing through Marocco would consider it an irregular + miserable town; but the despotic nature of the government induces + every individual to secrete or conceal his opulence; so that the + houses of the gentry are surrounded with a shabby wall, often + broken or out of repair, at a considerable distance from the + dwelling house, which does not appear, or is invisible to the + passenger. Some of these houses are very handsome, and are + furnished with couches, circular cushions to sit on, and other +96 furniture, in all the luxury of the East. When a visitor or a guest + enters one of these houses, slaves come in with perfumes burning, + in compliment to the visitor. Coffee and tea are then presented in + small cups, having an outer cup to hold that which contains the + liquor, instead of a saucer; the sugar being first put into the + pot. The coffee or tea being poured out, already sweetened with + sugar, a negro boy generally takes his station in one corner of a + spacious room, pours out the liquor, and sends it to the guests by + another boy. The tea table is a round stand, about twelve inches + from the ground, at which the tea boy sits down on a leather + cushion, cross legged. + + When dinner is served, the food is in a large dish or bowl, on a + round stand, similar to that above described; three, four, or more + sit round it; a servant comes to the company with a ewer and + napkin; each person wash their right hand, and eat with their + fingers; in the higher circles, rose-water is used instead of + plain; if soup is served, they eat it with wooden spoons; in this + respect the emperor himself sets them the example, who reprobates + the use of the precious metals with food. + + When the Moors sit down to eat; high and low, rich and poor, (for I + have partaken of food with all ranks, from the prince to the + plebeian,) they invariably invoke God's blessing, previous to the + repast, and offer thanks at the conclusion. Their first grace is, + invariable, short, and comprehensive; _bis'm illah_, "In the name +97 of God." The after grace is, _El Ham'd u littah_, "Praise be to + God." + + A very excellent dish is generally eaten in this country, called + _cuscasoe_; it is made with flour, granulated into particles the + size of a partridge shot, which is, put over a steamer, till the + steam has sufficiently passed through it, so as to produce the + effect of boiling; it is then taken off, broken, and returned to + steam a second time; in the meantime, a chicken or some meat is + boiling in the saucepan, under the steamer, with onions, turnips, + and other vegetables; when the _cuscasoe_ has been steamed a second + time, it is taken off, coloured with saffron, and mixed with some + butter, salt, and pepper, and piled up in a large round bowl or + dish, garnished with the chicken or meat and vegetables. This is a + very nutritious, wholesome, and palatable dish, when well cooked. + It is in high estimation with the Arabs, Moors, Brebers, Shelluhs, + and Negroes. When they sit down to eat, each person puts his + fingers into the dish before him; and in respectable society, it is + remarkable how dextrously they jerk the food into their mouths, + which never come into contact with their hands; so that this mode + of eating is scarcely objectionable, certainly not obnoxious, as + some travellers have represented it; but who probably had + associated with the lower ranks of society, who, indeed, are not + particular in these observances. +98 + All kind of trades are carried on at Marocco: jewellers, + goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, tanners, &c. &c.; but that + which is the most honourable, is a shoe-maker, because Muhamed + himself was one. At Mequinas they make excellent shoes, of leather + impervious to water, for 1_s._ 8_d._ per pair. + + The time now approached for our audience of business, and we had + represented to the _Talb Cadus_, that the export duties on some + articles were too heavy, viz. on wax, almonds, and olive oil; also + on certain imports, viz. iron, steel, and Buenos Ayres hides; but + no diminution was obtained, except in the duty of bees' wax. The + emperor gave hopes of an exportation of grain, and desired us to + write to Europe for ships to come and load wheat, barley, Indian + corn, caravances, beans, lentils, and millet. We were favourably + received; the emperor asked several questions respecting Europe, + and informed us we should return to Mogodor in a few days. Three + days after this audience we were ordered to meet the emperor in the + _Jenan En neel_, where we had our audience of leave, and the + emperor gave each of us a fine horse, chosen by ourselves out of + his own stable; and we took our leave and departed for Mogodor the + following evening. We slept encamped under the magnificent and + lofty date trees, in the neighbourhood of the city, the first + night. +99 + + LETTER X. + + FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. + + Harley-street, London, + + My dear Sir, September 10, 1798. + + I write to acknowledge the receipt of your favour. I know no man + better qualified than yourself for the station of an African + consul; and really think, that to assist you in obtaining such a + post, is to render service to my country, as well as to yourself. + Your information concerning the interior of Africa, and especially + concerning Timbuctoo, appears to me to be more accurate, authentic, + and extensive than that of any other person I have met with; + considerably more so than that of any of the correspondents of the + African association. Mr. Park, of whose return you are informed, + has brought home no addition to the stock of our knowledge of that + important place; though I think his geographical communications are + highly valuable, particularly as they regard the river and course, + &c. of the Niger. This celebrated river will, I think, in time be + the channel of communication between Europe and the interior of + Africa. It seems to penetrate into that continent, in its widest + and most interesting part; if it should be navigable through its + entire course, we might hereafter make it the instrument of the + most important discoveries, and the channel of the most valuable +100 commerce. I shall be much obliged to you for information concerning + this river, particularly as to its termination. I suspect it + discharges itself into some interior sea or vast lake, like the + Caspian; unless, like the Burrampooter, after various and extensive + windings, it may return towards its source, and fall into the + Atlantic. + + You will have heard of the landing of a French army in Egypt, under + Buonaparte; the French are enterprising, and if they should + penetrate from the eastward, while we advance from the west, the + interior of the African continent may at length be laid open. + + I remain, my dear Sir, + Your's sincerely, + + J. WILLIS. +101 + + LETTER XI. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + June 10.1800. + My dear Sir, + + I did not receive, till the 22d November, your favour, dated 1st + September last, for which I beg you to receive my best thanks. I + have transmitted an extract of it to Lord Moira, Sir Joseph Banks, + and to a friend of mine, who is a member of parliament, and has + great influence with his majesty's ministers; in order that he may + lay it before the secretary of state, in such a manner as to draw + his attention to it in the most impressive and effectual manner; + but I much fear that the pressure of the war, and its consequent + effects; the arrangements of finance, &c. will preclude their + immediate support to objects which they consider as of very + subordinate importance. The time is certainly highly favourable for + the cultivation of the friendship of the emperor, and of other + Muhamedan sovereigns; now that the British arms have preserved the + principal empire of the Moslems, by the victory at Aboukir, and the + defense of Acre; in consequence of which, Egypt has been recovered, + and one of the sacred gates of the Caaba again opened to the +102 Mussulmen. This appears to be an event of the highest consideration + to the Muhamedans of Africa, since it is by Grand Cairo, that the + western pilgrims communicate with Mecca. + + I suppose you have received the narratives, published by Park and + Browne, of their respective journies and discoveries in the + interior of your continent; they have done much, but much more + still remains to be done; and above all, the discovery of Timbuctoo + and its commercial relations. + + There is a captain Wild, now either at Tunis or Algiers, preparing + himself for this journey, (as I am informed,) a man of intrepidity, + judgment, and enterprise; whom Sir Joseph Banks writes me, he hopes + to engage in the employment of the African association. + + I assure you that I consider you, as the only European that + possesses any substantial and interesting information concerning + that part of interior Africa, which we are most solicitous to + investigate; and, therefore, set a high value upon whatever you are + so good as to communicate. I am also of opinion, that your plans + may very probably be adopted by administration, when the return of + peace shall leave their minds at liberty to attend to it. +103 + + LETTER XII. + + FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. + + Harley-street, London, + 5th May, 1801. + My dear Sir, + + I wrote you at considerable length on the 1st of June last, and + assure you that none of your letters, received prior to that date, + have remained unanswered. I have now to acknowledge the receipt of + your several favours, and beg you to accept my best thanks, for + your very curious and valuable present of the gold ring from + Wangara, which has been shown to several persons of great + distinction, and even to the king himself. _It is universally + considered as a great curiosity_; and I have taken care to make it + known that you are the person to whom I am indebted, for the first + _Wangarian_ jewel that has ever been seen in England. I have also + shown your letter, containing your judicious opinions upon the + course of the Niger[110], and other geographical points, to Sir + Joseph Banks and Major Rennell; and have invariably represented you + to them, and to others, as the person possessing eminently the best + information concerning the interior of Africa; an object which + draws at present the earnest attention, both of the learned and the +104 great, and which our late victories in Egypt, render more + peculiarly interesting. + + [Footnote 110: See Jackson's account of Marocco, last chapter.] + + I think, with you, it is probable there is a communication by water + between Jinnie and Egypt; but I should rather imagine there is some + large lake or Mediterranean sea, like the Caspian, for instance, + into which the Niger may discharge itself from the west, and a + branch of the Nile from the east. This idea seems to reconcile the + opinions of ancient geographers, with those resulting from modern + discoveries. If we should be able to effect the complete conquest + of Egypt, and to retain that kingdom, much light will probably soon + be acquired upon these interesting subjects. +105 + + LETTER XIII. + + _Journey from Mogodor, to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of + Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, to the Ruins of Pharaoh, + and thence through the Amorite Country to L'Araich and + Tangier.--Started from Mogodor with Bel Hage as my_ (Tabuk) _Cook, + ana Deeb as my_ (Mule Lukkerzana) _Tent Master.--Exportation of + Wool granted by the Emperor.--Akkermute depopulated by the + Plague.--Arabs, their Mode of hunting the Partridge.--Observations + respecting the River Tansift.--Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' + Pass.--Description of Saffy, and its Port or Road.--Woladia + calculated to make a safe Harbour.--Growth of Tobacco.--Mazagan + described.--Azamor the Abode of Storks.--Saneet Urtemma a dangerous + Country.--Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described.--Mausoleum of + the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat.--Of Shella, a Roman + Town.--Of the Tower of Hassan.--Road of Rabat.--Productive Country + about Rabat.--Salee.--The People inimical to Christians.--The + Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves.--Ait Zimurh, + notorious Thieves.--Their Mode of Robbing.--Their Country disturbed + with Lions.--Arrival at Mequinas.--Some Account of that City and + its imperial Palace.--Ladies of Mequinas extremely + beautiful.--Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone.--Extraordinary and favourable Reception there by the + Fakeers of the Sanctuary.--Slept in the Adytum.--Succour expected + from the English in the Event of an Invasion by + Bonaparte.--Prostration and Prayer of Benediction by the Fakeers at +106 my Departure from the Sanctuary.--Ruins of Pharaoh near the + Sanctuary.--Treasures found there.--Ite Amor.--The Descendants of + the Ancient Amorites.--Character of these People.--Various Tribes + of the Berebbers of Atlas.--El Kassar Kabeer.--Its Environs, a + beautiful Country.--Forest of L'Araich.--Superior Manufacture of + Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as Imitations of Amber.--Grand + Entry of the British Ambassador into Tangier.--Our Ignorance of + African Matters.--The Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces of his + Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe._ + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + Tangier, + 8th August, 1801. + Dear sir, + + My journey to meet His Excellency James M. Matra, the British + ambassador to the Court of Marocco, was undertaken principally to + obtain permission to ship a large quantity of wool which I had in + my possession, the exportation of which had been recently + prohibited. I thought I could not select a more seasonable time + than when our ambassador was at court; accordingly, I started from + Mogodor (the morning after I dispatched two vessels for Europe) on + the 4th June last, at four o'clock, P.M. My journey was first to + Rabat; thence, across the country, to Fas and Mequinas; thence to + the renowned and revered sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, on the + declivity of the mountains of Atlas, east of Mequinas; thence to + _Kassar Farawan_ (the ruins of Pharaoh), and through the warlike +107 province of the Ait Amor, to L'Araich, Arzilla, and to Tangier. + + I took with me two of the finest horses in the country, to ride + alternately. Two mules and three camels carried my baggage, tents, + &c. Muhamed of Diabet, commonly called _Deeb_, I engaged as + tent-master; this is the man that astonished Aly Bey El Abassy, + when he shot the fish in the river, as recorded by that interesting + traveller. I engaged a most excellent fellow as cook, a man who had + performed many journies in a similar capacity with the princes; he + was acquainted with the roads, the country, and the character of + the people; the camel-drivers and muleteers completed our party. + We arrived at Tela at nine o'clock in the evening, being a journey + of five hours. We remained at Tela the whole of the following day, + and started on the 6th June at seven o'clock; arrived, at ten + o'clock, at Akkermute, a town in ruins, in the plains west of + _Jebbel El Heddeed_ (the iron mountains), which was depopulated by + the plague about fifty years since. Passing through the plains of + Akkermute, towards the river Tensift, we saw a party of Arabs + hunting partridges; we did not stop to see this novel sport, but I + was informed that the dogs were directed by the huntsmen to the + spot where the birds settled, which roused them; they then pursued + them again, and after rousing them several times without + intermission, the birds become fatigued and exhausted by continual +108 flying, and the dogs then run them down and seize on them. In six + hours from Akkermute, at four o'clock, P.M., we reached the river + Tensift, which brings its water from the Atlas, east of Marocco, + meandering through the plains and passing about three miles north + of that city. + + We pitched our tents under the walls of the (_Luksebba_) castle, on + the south bank of the river. + + We started the next morning at six o'clock, and travelling through + a fine country, we came to a narrow pass on the declivity of a + lofty mountain called Jerf El Eudie, a most picturesque country, + and arrived at the port of Saffy at eleven o'clock. Saffy has no + harbour, but a road where ships are obliged to put to sea whenever + the south-wind blows; the town was fortified when in possession of + the Portuguese, and is situated in a declivity between two hills, + so that during the rainy season the waters come down so rapidly + that they sometimes overflow the lower apartments of the houses and + commit considerable damage. On the 8th June we started from Saffy + at nine o'clock, and arrived at the sanctuary of Seedi Cuscasoe at + five o'clock, P.M.; and proceeding on, we reached El Woladia at + nine, and pitched our tents. This place might be made a secure + harbour for the whole British navy, by blowing up a rock which + impedes the narrow passage at the entrance of a long and extensive + bay. From hence we started at half-past five o'clock in the + morning; we proceeded northwards along the coast till eleven +109 o'clock, when we reached the beautiful and abundant valley, the + Woolga; travelling on through the country, leaving the sea to the + left, we arrived at six o'clock at the Douar, (an encampment of + Arabs,) called _Woled Aisah, i.e._ "Sons of Jesus," situated in the + productive province of Duquella. The environs of the Douar of Woled + Aisah abound in plantations of tobacco, of a superior quality, + equal to the Havannah. The next morning, viz. on the 10th June, we + struck our tents at six o'clock, and travelling three hours we + arrived, at nine, at the _Jerf el Saffer_ (the Yellow Cliff): three + hours more brought us to Tet, and an hour more to Mazagan, which we + reached at one o'clock. Mazagan is the Portuguese name; the Moorish + name is El Burreja. This is a very strong place, having several + stout bastions; there is a magnificent (_mitfere_) cistern of + water, built by the Portuguese, supported by many pillars of great + strength of the Tuscan order. The water in the neighbourhood of + Mazagan is very salubrious; this country is full of springs. The + inhabitants have a good healthy colour, very different from the + inhabitants of the plains of the province of Duquella, which being + supplied by water from wells only, of from 100 to 200 feet deep, + have a sallow and sickly appearance. It may, in Europe, appear + extraordinary that the quality of water should produce such a + manifest difference in the complexion of the inhabitants, but when + we consider that these people drink no wine, spirits, or malt +110 liquor, the paradox will immediately vanish. After viewing the + mitfere, or cistern, and batteries at Mazagan, we mounted at four + o'clock, and arrived at Azamor at seven o'clock P.M., pitched the + tents in a large spacious fondaque, or caravansera, in the centre + of the town. We were annoyed during the night by thousands of + storks, the cluttering of whose bills would not permit us to sleep. + This town is in the centre of a beautiful country. On the 11th + June, at noon, we pursued our journey, and reached Sancet Urtemma + at eight o'clock P.M. This is a dangerous country, infested with + robbers, who, from the undulating face of the country, have many + modes of escape; we, therefore, retired into a solitary retreat, + and lay on our arms, without sleep, all night. At six o'clock next + morning, being the 12th June, we started, and arrived at Dar el + Beida at twelve. Here I was hospitably entertained by the agents of + the Spanish house of the Cinquo Gremos of Madrid, who were + established here for the purpose of shipping corn to Spain. We left + Dar el Beida, at half-past three, and reached Fedalla at half-past + seven. This is a fine productive country, abounding in grain as + well as Dar el Beida. On the 13th we started at four o'clock, and + reached El Mensoria at seven; stopped and dined, mounted at ten + A.M. and arrived at Rabat at seven o'clock, P.M. after a journey + from Mogodor, of 80-1/2 hours of actual travelling, or 242 English + miles.[111] + + [Footnote 111: Calculated at the rate of three miles an hour, + including stoppages and refreshments.] +111 + Rabat is the largest town on the coast of the empire, it is walled + round; its circumference is about four miles; an aqueduct conveys + abundance of water to the town from a distance of several miles. + The mausoleum of the sultan Muhamed, father to the present sultan + Soliman, is in the town of Rabat, it is a neat building, surrounded + by a colonade; here is a lamp continually burning, and a + _muden_[112], who is a fakeer, is continually proclaiming the + omnipotence of God, and that Muhamed is the prophet. "_La Allah, + ila Allah, wa Muhamed rassul Allah._" There is a very strong + battery towards the sea, at the mouth of the river, which is bomb + proof. The city wall is high, and is strengthened by several + bastions mounting cannon: towards the land, about a mile from + Rabat, there is a spring, reported to have been discovered by the + Romans, and near it is the Roman town of Shella, which none but + musulmen are permitted to enter. In it are said to be the tombs of + two sultans, but most probably of Roman generals. Kettles or pans + of coins are continually found by the people who dig the ground at + this place, and the coins found are Roman. Some European travellers + enhanced the price of these coins so much, by their eagerness to + purchase them, that they offered more than double their intrinsic +112 value, so that the Jews imitated them so well that they deceived + even these antiquaries. There are several mosques in this town, but + that which attracts particularly the notice of travellers, is the + _sma Hassan, i.e._ the tower of Hassan, situated about a mile from + Shella, on the south banks of the river Buregreg, so called from + its being in the province of Beny Hassan, it is an old tower built + in a superior manner by an architect of Grenada, the same that + built the tower at Marocco, called _Jamaa Lifenar_, one at + Timbuctoo, and that at Seville; it is about 200 feet high, + perfectly square, and a person may ride up to the top on horseback, + having a gradual ascent, and seven chambers one above the other: + the cement with which it is made is so hardened that no pickaxe can + destroy it. It was represented to the sultan Muhamed that the + apartments in this tower were the haunts of vice and immorality, + and the sultan ordered the floor or terras, by which visitors + ascend, to be broken; it was found, however, impossible to destroy + it, wherefore the workmen were ordered to desist, and the entrance + was blocked up with loose stones. This tower I ascended with my + friend the Comte de Fourban, nephew to the duke de Crillon, who + conducted the famous siege of Gibraltar, and whose machinations + were so admirably defeated by the immortal governor of that + garrison, General Elliott, Lord Heathfield. The Comte had ruined + his constitution by being immolated in a dungeon in France, during +113 the reign of Robespierre, where he remained during fifteen months, + oftentimes seated on steps in water up to his ankles. The Comte was + a very generous and liberal man, an emigrant French nobleman, + protected by the British consul at the court of Morocco. The + disorder contracted by ill usage and confinement in prison, brought + on a disease which, after applying various remedies to no purpose, + carried him off, and he died at Rabat. The house of the French + consul and those of some other European consuls who formerly + resided here, are conveniently situated on the southern banks of + the river Buregreg, which divides Rabat from Salee. Ships of one + hundred tons, that do not draw much water, may pass the bar and + load close to these houses; but larger vessels must come to anchor + in the offing, and take in their cargoes by boats. The country + about Rabat and Salee is wonderfully abundant in all the finest + grain, leguminous plants, fruits, vegetables, and cattle; the + orange, lemon, Seville, or bitter orange, and citron plantations + are here very extensive and extremely productive. Several ships + might be loaded here with oranges in October and November, before + the gales of the latter half of December and the month of January + set in. One hundred fine large oranges may be had for a drahim, a + silver coin worth 6_d._ sterling. The orange plantations of Rabat + are of incalculable extent; the trees are as large as a + middling-sized oak; the vineyards and cotton plantations are + likewise most abundant; and nothing can exceed the good quality of +114 the grapes, figs, oranges, citrons, apricots, peaches, and + water-melons; the quality of the latter is peculiarly _sweet_, they + are called _Dilla Seed Billa_; the seed of which might be + advantageously transported to our new colony, the Cape of Good + Hope. The vineyards of Rabat are very extensive; the vines are + cultivated in the Arabian system, on the ground, which is a light + sandy soil: the immense numbers of turtle-doves that are in these + vineyards is such, that a bad sportsman cannot fail killing a dozen + or two at every shot; they rise just before you in thousands, and + the foulahs, or vine cultivators, express their gratitude to the + Christians who go to shoot them. These birds, from being + unmolested, are so tame and so abundant, that they destroy an + incalculable quantity of the best fruit. + + [Footnote 112: The muden is the man who ascends the tower of + the Mosque and announces prayer.] + + On the 14th, the Comte de Fourban accompanied me, and we crossed + the river, in the ferry, to visit Salee. The inhabitants of this + town are inimical to Christians: we viewed the subterraneous cavern + where the Sallee rovers formerly confined their Christian slaves: + it resembled a mitfere or large subterraneous granary; it had two + grates to let in the air; it appeared perfectly dry, but no one was + in it. The Comte observed that it was far preferable to the prison + where he was confined in France, during the reign or usurpation of + Robespierre. The air of Salee and Rabat, and the adjacent country, +115 is strongly perfumed, morning and evening, with the sweet odour of + the orange-flower, of which they make immense quantities of + delectable comfits. + + On the morning of the 15th, we pursued our journey to Mequinas, + passing through a very fine country, inhabited by a Kabyl of + Berebbers, called Ait Zemurh. We halted, at four o'clock P.M. at a + circular Douar of these Berebbers, in a fine campaign country. The + next morning, at five o'clock, we struck the tents, and proceeded + through a dangerous country, infested by artful robbers, and the + occasional depredations of the lion and other wild beasts, whose + roaring we heard at a distance. We saw several square buildings, + which our guides informed us were built by the Berebbers, for the + purpose of destroying the lion. The patient hunter will conceal + himself in one of these buildings, which are about five feet by + seven, and will wait whole days for an opportunity to get a shot at + the lion: these noble beasts are here said to be the largest in all + Africa. After travelling this day ten hours, we pitched our tents + at another circular encampment of the Zimurite[113] Berebbers. + These people drive in stakes and place thorny bushes round their + encampment, eight feet high, and fill up the entrance every night + with thorns, as the fiercest lions of Africa abound in the adjacent + forests, and sometimes attack their habitations, accordingly they +116 keep a large fire all night to deter the lions and other wild + beasts from approaching. About two hours after midnight, my grey + horse, who was an old campaigner, neighed and awoke us; this gave + the alarm, and my people were presently on the alert, and perceived + two men approaching our tents, crawling naked along the ground, + which was of the same colour with their bodies. We did not wish to + take them, fearing that the people of the Douar would espouse the + cause of their countrymen, but my people gave the alarm, and + exclaimed "_Erd abellek asas_," i.e. "Be watchful, guards!" We then + saw these marauders jump up, and run away as fast as they could; + keeping watch the rest of the night: we were advised to take no + notice of this circumstance. The people of Ait Zimurh are professed + robbers: they would not allow us to pitch our tents _within_ their + circular encampment, a privilege universally granted to strangers + and travellers. I thought this very unhospitable; being totally + different from any thing I had ever before witnessed in this + country, where hospitality generally exceeds all bounds. I have no + doubt that the people of the Douar were in league with the robbers; + I considered my escape, the next day, when I was apprised of the + danger of the country I had confided in, quite providential, and I + have no doubt but these people would delude any one that would + trust to their honour: they reminded me of the ancient Africans, as + described by Sallust, in the wars of Jugurtha. + + [Footnote 113: The Zimurites, or Ait Zimure, are probably the + descendants of the Zemarites: for which see 1 Chron. i. 16.] +117 + We struck our tents at five o'clock, and travelled very fast to get + out of these treacherous habitations; for we learned that, the + preceding night, Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy, a Negro captain of the + emperor's army, passed this Douar, and was robbed of his bridles, + saddles, and tent equipage, with which the thieves made off, + without being discovered. I afterwards met Alkaid L'Hassan Ramy at + Mequinas; and he appeared quite astonished that I should have + escaped being robbed at the above Douar, calling the whole Kabyl a + set of lawless thieves. On the 17th, we started at five o'clock, + and arrived at Mequinas at nine o'clock, performing the journey + from Rabat to Mequinas in twenty-two hours, being sixty-six miles. + The city of Mequinas is the court-town of the northern division of + the empire: the imperial palace at this place is above two miles in + circumference. At the corners are erected (_Coba's_) square + buildings or pavilions, containing one room up stairs, where the + emperor frequently transacts business. This palace was built by the + sultan Muley Ismael: it is very neat, and consists for the most + part of moresque architecture; the marble columns and other + decorations were brought from (_Kasser Farawan_) the ruins of + Pharaoh, about a day's journey to the eastward. There is a superior + garden of choice fruit within the wall which surrounds the palace, + and in the latter are many elegant apartments, ornamented + _A-la-mauresque_. The ladies of Mequinas are so extremely handsome, +118 that I cannot say I saw one plain young woman, although I visited + several families; nay, I can say, without offense to truth, that I + did not see one that was not comely and handsome. I was most + hospitably entertained wherever I went. On the 18th June, at eight + o'clock A.M. we started for Fas; when we had approached the latter + city, we met a messenger, with the prince Muley Abdsalam's + secretary, from the emperor to his excellency J.M. Matra, the + British ambassador to the court of Marocco, who informed me that + his excellency had just terminated his embassy, had waited for my + arrival two days, and was on his return to Tangier. Presuming, + therefore, that the ambassador had negociated my business for me, I + turned to the north-east, travelled all day without halting, till + eight o'clock in the evening, when we arrived at the renowned + sanctuary[114] of Muley Dris Zerone, on the declivity of North + Atlas; a most magnificent, beautiful, and picturesque country, + abounding in all the necessaries and luxuries of life. This + sanctuary was never before, nor since, visited by any Christian. It + was here that the standard of Muhamed was first planted in + North-western Africa, by the fakeer and prince Muley Dris, the + founder. A favourable combination of circumstances, of which I + availed myself, enabled me to procure not only an asylum, but a +119 most hospitable and kind reception and entertainment in this + renowned sanctuary; and I actually slept in the _Horem_ or Adytum + itself, which honour I obtained by a present, appropriated to the + circumstance, and sent to the chief fakeer of the sanctuary, + accompanied with some observations expressed in a manner which was + agreeable to the holy fraternity. When I entered the _Horem_ of + this renowned sanctuary, where I slept alone, its silence reminded + me of the silence of death, which formed one of the ancient + mysteries of Egypt. The chief of the fakeers met me in the portico, + and cordially shook hands with me, calling me his brother. At this + time there was a rumour that Bonaparte was preparing to invade the + country; and indeed he had intimated as much, the English were + therefore courted; it was even hoped and expected by the emperor + that they would in such an event become his allies, and give him + succour. The next morning, I gave the fakeer some wax candles + accompanied with observations emblematical of the present, which + was so favourably received, that no less than nine saints + prostrated themselves at the place of prayer, which is at the + entrance of the town, as I passed out to pursue my journey, + uttering with audible voices a (_fatha_) prayer of benediction, + invoking on me the protection of Almighty God, and a blessing on + the English nation; also that God would avert every danger from the + embassy, and restore them in safety to their native land. I am +120 perfectly aware that, in recording this extraordinary circumstance, + persons who have visited this country, and have remarked the + rancour that generally exists with the lower orders against + Christians, may doubt my veracity, so unprecedented a circumstance + it is for a Christian to be admitted into a _Horem_! the most + respected also and the most sacred in the empire! My answer to such + is, that the circumstance is so incredible, that I should not have + presumed to lay it before the British public, if I had not two most + respectable witnesses, _now living_ in West Barbary, who can and + will corroborate my report; these two men are Bel Hage, a Muselman, + who had been the prince's cook, and who officiated as mine during + the journey, and Muhamed, commonly called Deeb, of Diabet, a + village near Mogodor, the same man whose dexterity Aly Bey, in his + travels, alludes to, when he shot a fish in the river near Mogodor. + + [Footnote 114: The town, in the centre of which stands the + sanctuary, contains about 5000 inhabitants.] + + Half an hour's journey after leaving the sanctuary of Muley Dris + Zerone, and at the foot of Atlas, I perceived to the left of the + road magnificent and massive ruins; the country for miles around is + covered with broken columns of white marble, the ruins appeared to + be of the Egyptian, and massive style of architecture. There were + still standing two porticos, about thirty feet high and twelve feet + wide, the top of which was one entire stone. I attempted to take a + view of these immense ruins, which have furnished marble for the +121 imperial palaces at Mequinas and at Tafilelt; but I was obliged to + desist, seeing some persons of the sanctuary following the + cavalcade. Pots and kettles of gold and silver coins are + continually dug up from these ruins. The country, however, abounds + in serpents, and we saw many scorpions under the stones that my + conductor Deeb turned up. These ruins are said by the Africans to + have been built by one of the Pharaohs: they are called "_Kasser + Farawan_" i.e. the ruins of Pharaoh.[115] Here begins the territory +122 of the Brebber Kabyl, the Amorites or Ite-amor, said to be the + descendants of the ancient[116] Amorites, whose country was + situated east of Palestine. These people retain their ancient + warlike spirit, but they are a faithless tribe, and intolerable + thieves, unlike the other Kabyles (who are, at least, faithful to + one of their own Kabyl); but these marauders are exceedingly + mistrustful of their own brethren, so that their habitations + consist of two or three tents only, in one encampment; and even + these are sometimes at variance with each other. The lamentable +123 result of this mistrustful and marauding spirit, is wretched and + universal poverty. Their country is a succession of gentle + undulating hills, without trees or plantations of any kind. The + late sultan Muhamed used to compare the provinces or races of men + in his empire, to the nations of Europe, the English he called + warriors, the French faithless, the Spaniards quiet and + inoffensive, the Romans, i.e. the people of Italy, treacherous, the + Dutch a parsimonious and trading people; the other powers of + Europe, having no consul at Marocco, nor merchants in the country, + are known only by name: accordingly, in allusion to the warlike + spirit of the English, he would call the Ait Amor, "the English of + Barbary;" Temsena, the French; Duquella, the Spanish; Haha, the + Italians; and Suse, the Russians. When the sultan Muhamed began a + campaign, he never entered the field without the warlike Ait Amor, + who marched in the rear of the army; these people received no pay, + but were satisfied with what plunder they got after a battle; and + accordingly, this principle stimulating them, they were always + foremost on any contest, dispute, or battle. They begin the + campaign almost in a state of nudity, and seldom return to their + homes without abundance of apparel, arms, horses, camels, and + money; but this property quickly disappears, and these people are + soon again reduced to their wonted misery and nudity, and become +124 impatient for another campaign of plunder. When the present sultan, + Soliman, came from Mequinas, in the year of the plague (1799), a + division of his army passed near Mogodor, and the encampments of + the Ait Amor, or Amorites occupied the whole of the country from + the river to the Commerce Garden, a distance of three miles. It is + very probable that some other of the tribes bordering on Palestine, + may have emigrated in remote times, and may have taken their abode + on the Atlas mountains. There are above twenty (kabyls) tribes + of[117] Berebbers occupying the mountains of Atlas, as Ait-Girwan, + Zian, Ait-Ziltan, Ait-Amor, Ait-Ebeko, Ait-Kitiwa, Ait-Attar, + Ait-Amaran, and many more whose names I do not now recollect. We + travelled seven hours through the Amorite country, and pitched our + tents in the north part of the plains of Msharrah Rummellah. Fire + being lit, the Moors sat round to warm themselves, and confidently + animadverted on the prosperity that would necessarily attend our + journey, after having met with such a hospitable and favoured + reception at the renowned sanctuary before mentioned. + + [Footnote 115: In reply to those learned sceptics who have + studied books; but not men, and the manners of different + countries; who believe nothing but what they have seen; and who + say that Pharaoh never came so far west; I reply, that our + knowledge of African history is extremely imperfect. In fact, + we now know as certainties, various articles of which no record + is to be found in any ancient writer; for the affairs of + Africa, which, of late, have so deservedly excited the + attention of the learned, were as little known to the ancients + as they are to the moderns; insomuch that not a word is to be + found in any ancient record or history extant, of those curious + astronomical representations, the Zodiacs, which adorn the + ceilings of the temples in _Egypt_, nor of the paintings which + cover the silent and solemn repositories of their dead. Even + the royal sepulchres, surpassing all the efforts of art + hitherto known, in brilliancy of colours and decorative + sculptures, are recorded by no historian! Neither in any + history, _known to Europe_, is there any allusion to the + Egyptian custom of placing books, i.e. rolls of manuscript, in + the mummy coffins with the bodies of the deceased. For much of + the knowledge collected respecting Africa, we are indebted to + the catacombs of Egypt, and we must not hope to know much more, + whilst our ignorance of the Arabic language is so manifest; we + must travel far out of the precincts of Greek and Latin lore, + before we shall procure correct histories of African affairs! + Our knowledge of Hebrew, in Europe I apprehend, is almost as + much confined and as imperfect as that of Arabic! By the + assistance, however, of the latter, what store of learning + might we not expect from complete Arabic translations of many + of the Greek and Latin authors, _viz._ of the _complete_ works + of Livy, Tacitus, and many others. I recollect conversing with + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, (a gentleman deeply + versed in Arabian literature,) about the close of the last + century, who mentioned circumstances, which gave me reason to + suppose that there is extant a complete Arabic translation of + Livy as well as of Tacitus, as the bashaw assured me there was, + and that he had read them, and they were to be found in the + recondite chests of the Imperial library at Fas, in which it is + more than probable that there are many valuable transcripts in + Arabic of ancient authors, quite lost to erudite Europe! A + knowledge of the Arabic language in this country is so + indispensable, and is held in such high estimation, that every + one who does not understand it, is denominated _ajemmy_, _i.e._ + barbarian or European.--St. Paul in the same spirit says, I + Corinth. ch. xiv. v. 11., "He that speaketh unintelligibly, is + unto us a barbarian."] + + [Footnote 116: See Genesis, xv. 16. Deuteron. xx. 17. Judges, + i. 34.] + + [Footnote 117: Some persons consider several tribes of these + Berebbers to be colonies of the ancient Phenicians.] + + On the morning of the 20th June, we struck our tents at six + o'clock, and pursued our journey to L'Araich, and soon entered the + territory that belongs to the agriculturists of El Kassar Kabeer, a +125 beautiful country not unlike that of Ait-Amor in appearance, but + bearing the evidences of agricultural industry. Here we discovered + magnificent and extensive plantations of olives, immense + citron-trees, orange-groves, and spacious vineyards, peaches, + apricots, greengages, and walnuts were also the produce of this + country, besides excellent wheat of a large and long transparent + grain like amber, yielding, when ground into flour, from fifteen to + twenty per cent. increase, in quantity. Anxious now to overtake His + Excellency the ambassador, for the purpose of being present at his + entry into Tangier, we accelerated our pace, with a view of coming + up with him at L'Araich. We arrived at the forest of L'Araich at + dusk, and travelled through it all night till five o'clock next + morning. + + Having travelled incessantly twenty-three hours without halting, + being much fatigued, I desired Deeb to take a little rest with me + in an adjacent field, and we sent on Bel Hage with the baggage to + L'Araich, to wait our arrival at the ferry. We pursued our journey + at seven o'clock, and entered the town at nine. On reaching the + ferry, Bel Hage introduced a courier, who had been dispatched to me + from Fas, by a friend of mine, who informed me how much he, and + many of my Moorish friends had been disappointed, that I did not + enter that city, where I understood preparations had been made for + my entertainment, in the odoriferous gardens of the merchants of +126 Fas. The courier brought me a present of gold wire and gold thread, + of the manufacture of Fas, and some gold ornaments of filligrane + work from Timbuctoo, of the manufacture of Jinnie. It is more than + probable that the Fasees learned the art of manufacturing gold + thread from the Egyptians: it is much superior to that which is + imported into Barbary from Marseilles. The ladies ornament their + cambric dresses with it, and the Fas gold-thread never loses its + colour by washing, but the French does; the Fas gold thread wears + also much better, and is more durable; the change of colour may + possibly originate from the great proportion of alloy in the gold + of the French manufacture, whereas that of Fas, according to an + imperial edict, must be of a certain fineness, approaching to pure + gold; the gold wire of which it is made being first assayed by the + (_M'tasseb_) supervisor of manufactures. Great quantities of gold + thread are used in the elegant shawls and sashes of silk and gold + made at Fas, the better kind of which are reserved for princes and + bashaws, in which they use, as before observed, the Fas thread + only. They manufacture also at Fas, a very correct imitation of + amber-beads, impossible to be discriminated by the best judges, but + by rubbing the artificial amber, and then applying it to a bit of + cotton; the latter does not adhere, but the natural amber attracts + the cotton as a magnet does iron; and this is the discriminating + criterion whereby to distinguish them. +127 + But, to return to our journey, we found the ambassador had passed + the preceding day, we therefore crossed the river, and travelled on + till nine o'clock at night, when, after being a-horseback + thirty-four hours, refreshed only by two hours' sleep, we came up + with the ambassadors, Cafila, and guard, in a fine open campaign + country, half-way between Tangier and Arzilla; and soon after I + received a courier from Sir Pieter Wyk, Swedish consul-general to + the empire residing at Tangier, with a very friendly invitation to + his house and table, which being the first offer and from a sincere + and worthy friend, I with pleasure accepted it, and returned the + express immediately. On the morning of the 22d June, I breakfasted + at five o'clock with the ambassador, and, discussing with him my + business, I learned that he had terminated it to my satisfaction. + We started together at seven o'clock, and moved slowly on towards + Tangier, it having been ordered by the emperor, that the English + ambassador's entry into that town should be marked with every + possible honour and attention. An hour before we reached Tangier, + the governor, with the whole garrison, came out to salute and greet + the ambassador, the cavalry running full gallop, and firing their + muskets, as is the custom with them in all rejoicings. At half-past + eleven the cannon of Tangier began to announce the ambassador's + arrival, and continued, not a royal salute, but every gun in + Tangier was discharged; and at twelve o'clock we entered the gates. +128 + + LETTER XIV. + + _Result of the British Embassy_. + + FROM HIS EXCELLENCY J.M. MATRA TO MR. J. + + Old Fez, Sunday night, June 14, 1801. + + Dear Jackson; + + After a most unpleasant and tedious negotiation of nine days, I + have just finished my business. I march off early to-morrow + morning, and am much employed in packing up, translating, and + copying of papers. + + The letter I solicited for you is just brought to me, mixed with + Mr. Foxcroft's business, and the provision for the shipping in + Mogadore; but the Talb promises to bring me a separate one very + early in the morning, when I will inclose it to you. + + _Through the interest of Muly Abdel-melk-ben Driss, the orders were + some time since sent to Mogadore, to reduce your new duty to the + old standard of Seedi Muhamed_. + + I have been treated by the emperor like a prince, and with a + friendly personal attention I had no idea of; but my business has + been marvellously tormented. Of that, as we are to meet soon, I + will say no more. I am half dead. + + God bless you. + J. MATRA. +129 + + LETTER XV. + + _European Society at Tangier.--Sects and Divisions among Christians + in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the Propagation of Christianity, + and casts a Contempt upon Christians themselves.--The Cause of + it.--The Conversion of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation of + the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians themselves, as an + Example eligible to follow_. + + TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. + + It is not only the duty, but it is the manifest policy of + Christians who reside in Muhamedan countries, to preserve that + peace and harmony that is so often inculcated by our divine Master: + there should be no followers of Paul or of Apollos, of the Pope or + of Luther, but Christians altogether should forget sects, and + become followers of Christ, by practising his divine and luminous + doctrine. This principle, strictly adhered to, would have greater + effect in propagating the Christian doctrine, than the united + efforts, however arduous, of all the missionaries in Africa. We + should first begin by reforming the manners of those Christians who + are established in Muhamedan countries, holding responsible + situations, so as to show the Muhamedans, by their harmony and good + will, the advantages of the benign influence of the great Christian + principle, "Love thy neighbour as thyself." Until the disgraceful +130 animosity lamentably prevalent between the Catholic and Protestant, + the Lutheran, Calvinist, and other sects of Christians be + annihilated, it cannot be expected by any reasonable and reflecting + mind, that essential progress can be made in the propagation of + Christianity in Africa, at least in the Muhamedan part of it. We + must purify our own actions, and set a laudable example of chaste + and virtuous conduct, as a prelude to the conversion of the people + of this continent. The Africans, viz. the Arabs, Berebbers, + Shelluhs, Moors, and Negroes are, _generally_ speaking, shrewd, + acute, discerning races of men; and it cannot be supposed by any + but insane enthusiasts, that the doctrines of Christ can be + propagated in those countries, until an example be set for their + imitation better than their own practice, and more conformable to + the true Christian doctrine than any that has hitherto been offered + for their imitation. + + Tangier is the residence of the consuls-general of all the nations + of Europe, who send occasionally ambassadors to the Court of + Marocco; and these gentlemen generally act as envoys or ministers, + as well as consuls. The English, French, Dutch, American, Spanish, + Portuguese, Swedish, and Danish consuls reside here, some with + their families, some without. I had not been long here before I + perceived that the Moors of Tangier manifested an extraordinary + contempt for Christians, the general respect which is shown to them + at Mogodor, is unknown here. The reason is evident: the families of +131 these gentlemen were at variance with each other, and the + respective ladies did not visit one another. This circumstance was + too well known to the Moors, and materially contributed to create + among those people that contempt for the Christians, which, + perhaps, is due to all, whatever be their _professed_ doctrines, + who have not charity enough, in the correct acceptation of the + word, to maintain harmony in their own community. I was shocked to + see so many amiable families at variance. I will not declare if it + was pride, ambition, or contention for pre-eminence that produced + this want of harmony; but it is most certain, that Christians, + whose destiny it is to reside among Muhamedans, should have more + than ordinary care to preserve that philanthropic disposition to + each other, which carries with it a high recommendation, + particularly in a country like _West Barbary_, where the gate of + every tent is open to the largest, most disinterested, and + unqualified hospitality, and where the sheik of every douar + considers it his first and indispensable duty to provide food and + rest to the needy traveller, and to the stranger at his gate. +132 + + LETTER XVI. + + _Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, showing the Distances + from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic Ocean; useful to + Persons travelling in that Country_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Mogodor, 1801. + + If you should ever come to this country, and have occasion to + travel through it, the following journal of a journey from Tangier + to Mogodor may be of service to you, in ascertaining the distances + from one port to another, &c. + + Departed from Tangier for Mogodor, + July 15, 1801, at 9 o'clock, A.M. Hours. + + Arrived at Arzilla, at 7, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; arrived at L'Araich, + at 2, P.M. 7 + + Started at 5, A.M.; arrived at Ras Doura, + at 3, P.M. 10 + + Mounted at 6, A.M.; travelled three hours; + came to a plain, level country, and arrived + at Sallee, at 10 o'clock, P.M. 16 + + Crossed the river in the ferry, and remained + at the French Consul's Hotel, at + Rabat, three days. Mounted at 9; arrived + at El Mensoria, at 9, P.M. 12 +133 + Mounted at 6, A.M.; arrived at Dar El + Beida, at half-past 2, P.M. 8-1/2 + + Proceeded without halting, and arrived at + the Douar of Woled Jeraar, at 9, P.M. + and pitched our tents. 7 + + Mounted at 5, A.M.; arrived at Azamore, + at 7, P.M. 14 + + Mounted at 7, A.M.; travelled southward, + leaving Mazagan to the right, and arrived + at the Douar of Woled Aisah, at + 1 o'clock, P.M. and pitched our tents. 6 + + Departed at 7, A.M.; arrived at El Woladia, + at 6, P.M. 11 + + Mounted at 8; arrived at Saffy, at 5. 9 + + Started at 1, P.M.; rode six hours to the + river Tansift; slept at the Sanctuary + near the river. 6 + + Rose at midnight, struck the tents, and + mounted at 1 o'clock, A.M. arrived at + the Sanctuary of Seedi Buzurukton, at + 11. 10 + + Dined, slept, and started again at 4 + o'clock, P.M. and entered Mogodor at + half-past 7 o'clock. 3-1/2 + + 130 + + Average rate of travelling, (including stoppages,) three miles per + hour, 390 miles in 130 hours. +134 + + LETTER XVII. + + _An Account of a Journey from Mogodor to Saffy, during a Civil War, + in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not pass, owing to the + Warfare between the two Provinces of Haha and Shedma.--Stratagem + adopted by the Author to prevent Detection.--Danger of being + discovered.--Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, and + Compliments received from him on his having accomplished this + perilous Journey_. + + TO THE SAME. + Mogodor, 1802. + + Having arranged all my affairs, I awaited an opportunity to depart + for England. A Spanish vessel was lying at the port of Saffy, + nearly ready to sail, bound to Cadiz; but how to reach the former + port was the difficulty; the provinces of Shedma and Haha, through + which I must necessarily pass, were at war against each other, and + an army of several thousand men were encamped at Ain el Hajar, a + spring near the road, between Mogodor and Saffy; so that all + communication was cut off, insomuch that it was dangerous, even for + a courier, to attempt to pass from one port to the other. I was + extremely anxious to reach Europe, and I determined to go to Saffy + by land. I accordingly sent for a trusty Arab, whose character for +135 fidelity I had often before proved. I asked him if he would + undertake to conduct me to Saffy. He required a day to consider of + it. He then resolved to attempt it, provided I would adopt the + dress of an Arab, and accompany him: I agreed; and we started from + Mogodor at 4 o'clock; P.M. We passed into a convenient recess, to + change my dress, which being done, we mounted our horses and rode + away; we had not gone two hours, before some scouts of the army + came galloping towards us. Billa (my trusty guide, who was a native + of Shedma, and a man of considerable influence in that province) + and his friend rode off with speed to meet them, and having + satisfied them that we were about business relating to the army, + they returned, and Billa's friend joining me, we inclined our steps + towards the sea, whilst Billa kept guard at a distance; and, + reaching a convenient and solitary retreat, we halted there till + dark; when retracing our steps for a few miles, it was concerted + that I should pass as a wounded man retiring from the army to have + my wounds examined and dressed. Billa was so well acquainted with + the roads, and all the bye-passes of the country, that, travelling + fast over the plains, not on the roads, we soon reached to the + northward of the encampments of Shedma. We passed several + straggling parties from the army, who saluted us with (_Salem u + alikume_) "Peace be to you;" to which we replied ("_Alikume +236 assalam_") "To you peace;" and Billa added "_Elm'joroh_," i.e. a + wounded man. In the old bed of the river Tansift, now full of + bushes of white broom, I narrowly escaped being discovered: as the + day was breaking, a party of Arabs suddenly turned a corner, and I + had just time to cover my mouth and chin with my (_silham_) cloak, + before they gave the salutation, or they would have discovered me + (being without a beard) to be a Christian; we passed the river, + however, perfectly safe, and were then soon in the province of + Abda, when all danger was at an end; we entered the town of Saffy, + at two o'clock in the afternoon. The Bashaw of Abda, _Abdrahaman + ben Nassar_, a renowned warrior, who had been at the head of an + army of 60,000 horse, in opposition to the Emperor, Muley Soliman, + received me with his accustomed urbanity and hospitality, and asked + me if I had come to Saffy through the air, or by sea. I replied, I + had come by neither, but by land. "How is it possible," said he, + "that you could come by land, when even a courier could not pass. + Did you meet with no impediment?--you astonish me: but praise be to + God, that you have arrived safe, and you are welcome." +137 + + LETTER XVIII. + + _Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy, in + Shtuka.--Encamped in his Garden.--Mode of living in + Shtuka.--Audience of the Prince.--Expedition to the Port of Tomie, + in Suse.--Country infested with rats.--Situation of + Tomie.--Entertainment at a Douar of the Arabs of Woled + Abbusebah.--Exertions of Delemy to entertain his Guests.--Arabian + Dance aud Music.--Manner and Style of Dancing.--Eulogium of the + Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies.--Manners of the latter.--Their + personal Beauty.--Dress.--Desire of the Arabs to have a Commercial + Establishment in their Country.--Report to the Prince respecting + Tomie.--Its Contiguity to the Place of the Growth of various + Articles of Commerce.--Viceroys offer to build a House, and the + Duties.--Contemplated Visit to Messa.--Nature of the Country.--Gold + and Silver Mines.--Garden of Delemy.--Immense Water-melons and + Grapes.---Mode of Irrigation.--Extraordinary People from Sudan at + Delemy's.--Elegant Sword.--Extensive Plantations.--The Prince + prepares to depart for Tafilelt_. + + TO THE SAME. + Santa Cruz, June 7, 1794. + + I received a letter from the[118] Prince Muley Abdsalam, who lately + went from Santa Cruz to the Khalif of Suse, Alkaid Muhamed ben + Delemy, whose castle is in Shtuka. The prince wished to see me on +138 some commercial business that had been suggested to him by the + khalif or viceroy. We (that is, Signor Andrea de Christi, a native + of Italy, and a Dutch merchant established at Santa Cruz, and + myself) prepared our tents and servants, and departed for Shtuka + early in the morning. We passed through a fine campaign country, + occupied by a tribe of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, and arrived, late + at night, at (_Luksebba_) the castle of Delemy, who was also sheik + of an emigration of the Arabs called Woled Abbusebah, and of + another emigration of Arabs called Woled Deleim, who had taken up + their abodes in Shtuka. When we arrived, our reception was in the + true style of Arabian hospitality. Delemy had prepared and had + pitched tents in a large garden adjoining his castle, wherein we + resided. Our own tents were pitched in the Mushoir, or place of + audience, a spacious plain, enclosed by a wall, where the sheik + gave audience to the various kabyls of Suse. The following day we + had an audience of the prince, who requested me to accompany Delemy + to a port of Suse, which had been formerly frequented by European + ships, which took in water there, and ascertain if it were a port + convenient for a commercial establishment. The name of this seaport + was called Tomie by the Portuguese, who formerly had an + establishment there; but by the Arabs, _Sebah Biure_, i.e. the + Seven Wells, because there were seven wells of excellent water +139 there: three of them, however, when we visited this port, were + filled up and useless. We left Delemy's castle in the afternoon, + about two or three o'clock, and we went at a pace called by the + Arabs _el herka_[119], over a plain country infested with rats, and + the haunts of serpents, our horses continually stumbling over the + rat-holes. We were, to the best of my recollection, about four + hours going. We found Tomie, an open road, not altogether + calculated to form an advantageous commercial establishment. Its + situation with respect to the sea being somewhat objectionable. We + sat down near one of the wells, and after Delemy and his guards had + amused themselves with (_lab el borode_) running full gallop and + firing, we drank Hollands till we became gay. The sun had just set, + when we mounted our horses to return. After an hour's _herka_, we + approached a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, who, seeing their + sheik, came forward and kissed his stirrups, entreating him to pass + the night with them, which, it appeared, would have been contrary + to the etiquette of Arabian hospitality to refuse. Delemy, + therefore, asked us if we would consent to sleep there; and, + apologising for not conducting us to our own beds that night, again + intimated, that it was, in a manner, incumbent on him, not to + refuse. We, therefore, consented to stop. This noble-spirited Arab, +140 anxious to entertain us, and justly conceiving that the beds and + habits of these Arabs were very different from what we had been + accustomed to, sought to beguile the time, and accordingly + endeavoured to engage some ladies belonging to the douar to dance, + but they positively declined dancing before Christians. Delemy + expostulated with them, representing the propriety of doing so, + before the prince's guests; but the ladies apologised, by declaring + that their splendid dancing dresses were not made up. Delemy, + however, with the true energy of an Arab, was determined that he + would make our abode here as pleasant as possible, and desirous + also to show us the spirit of Arabian dancing, he went himself, + accompanied by two of his friends, to a douar, at some miles' + distance, and, after much persuasion, he prevailed on six young + ladies to come and dance. In about two hours, the sheik returned, + and informed us, that knowing that beds in the desert would not + suit our customs, he had engaged some young girls to amuse us with + dancing during the night, assuring us at the same time that they + excelled in that graceful art, and he had no doubt they would amuse + us. The tents were cleared and lighted; two sheep were killed, and + the _cuscasoe_ was preparing, when the ladies arrived. The music + consisted of an instrument similar to a flageolet, (_tabla_) a + kettle-drum, and a sort of castanets of steel, an _erbeb_, or + fiddle with two strings, played with a semicircular bow. The tunes +141 were gay and sprightly, and the damsels tripped along on the light + fantastic toe in a very superior and elegant style. They danced + without men; advancing gently at first, apparently without taking + the foot off the ground, but gradually advancing; after which they + performed some steps similar to those in the Spanish bolera; and, + turning round on the toe, they danced a most elegant _shawl_ dance, + equal to what was danced at the Opera in London by Parisot, but + without the horizontal movement, or any motion that could offend + the chastest eye. This unique national dance was encouraged from + time to time by the approbation of twelve captains of the viceroy's + guard, warriors of fame in arms, who were Arabs of the Woled + Deleim, and who were seated in a circle, with us, round the + dancers, expressing their delight and gratification in witnessing + such superior grace and elegance, exclaiming-- + + "Afakume el Arabe, makine fal el Arabe, + El Hashema, u zin, u temara, fie el Arabe." + "Bravo, O Arabs! there is none equal to the Arabs: + Excellent is the modesty, beauty, and virtue of the Arabs." + + [Footnote 118: Elder Brother of the present Emperor of Marocco, + Muley Soliman.] + + [Footnote 119: A pace similar to that which European cavalry go + when charging.] + + These eulogiums were not lost on the ladies, who increased the + spirit of the dance. When this amusement had continued about three + hours, the cuscasoe, meat, and vegetables were brought in, as a + supper. The Moors ate plentifully; but the abstemious Arabs ate + very little; the ladies partook of sweet cakes and dates; they very +142 seldom chew meat, but when they do, they think it gross to swallow + it, they only press the juices from the meat, and throw away the + substance. The manners of these damsels were elegant, accompanied + with much suavity and affability, but very modest and unassuming + withal: indeed, they were all individuals, as I afterwards learned, + belonging to respectable and ancient Arab families, who could not + resist the exhortations of their sheik to amuse and entertain his + guests. The manners of these Arabs, their elegant forms, sparkling + black eyes, long black eye-lashes, which increased the beauty of + the eye, adding character to the countenance, seemed to make an + indelible impression on the whole party. The ladies wore robes of + Indian muslin, girdles of gold thread, interwoven with silk of the + Fas manufacture; and their shawls of silk and gold were displayed + in various elegant devices. We were given to understand by Delemy's + captains, on our return to the sheik's castle, that we had been + entertained with extraordinary honours: we certainly were highly + gratified, and my friend Signor Andrea declared he had never seen + better dancing at Venice, his native place. Among the Arabs was an + old man of ninety, who appeared very desirous of an European + establishment at Tomie. He related several anecdotes of his life; + and, among others, the money he had gained, by purchasing goods of + vessels which came forty or fifty years before to Tomie for water, + with which he said he used to exchange gums and almonds, feathers +143 and ivory, for linens, cloths, and spices. I am disposed to think + these vessels were Portuguese; for this coast is but little known + to the English. The ladies having returned home, we prepared to + leave this douar early in the morning; and with no small regret did + I quit this abode of simple and patriarchal hospitality; a pleasing + contrast was here formed to the dissipation and pleasure of + civilised life--to the life of fashionable society, where the + refinements of luxury have multiplied their artificial wants beyond + the proportion of the largest fortunes, and have brought most men + into the class of the necessitous, inducing that churlish habit of + the mind, in which every feeling is considered as a weakness, which + terminates not in self, unlike those generous sympathies of the + Arabs, where every individual seems impelled to seek, as they + express it, (_e dire el khere fie nes_) "to do good to men." The + effect of luxury, dissipation, and extravagance, (where the fortune + is not large enough to support them,) tends to render man selfish + upon principle, and extinguishes all genuine public spirit, that + is, all real regard to the interests and good order of society; + substituting in its place, the vile ambition and rapacity of the + demagogue, which, however, assumes the name of patriotism. This + contrast between the temperance and sobriety of these Bedouin or + primitive Arabs, and the luxury and dissipation of civilised life, + was the more remarkable, when we observed among this rude people + such extraordinary and mutual exercise of benevolence, manly and +144 open presence, honesty and truth in their words and actions.--On + our return to Delemy's castle, in Shtuka, the Prince asked me, what + observations I had made respecting Tomie; I told his Royal Highness + that it was an open roadstead, and not a convenient place for ships + to lie. The Prince appeared pleased at this report; but Delemy had + rendered to Muley Abdsalam so many essential services, that the + latter could not, in courtesy, refuse him any thing. When Delemy + found that my report to the Prince did not realise his + expectations, offers were made to me, supported by every possible + encouragement, to form a commercial establishment at Tomie, which, + as was observed, being advantageously situated for trade, being in + the neighbourhood of the gum, almond, and oil countries, would + offer advantages to the merchants which they could not expect at + Santa Cruz, or Mogodor. Accordingly, I was urged to send to Europe + for ships, with assurances that the duty on all imports, as well as + exports, should be only two per cent. _ad valorem_. A house was + offered to be built for me, according to any plan I might choose to + suggest, free of expense. The people were desirous of having a + commercial establishment in their country, and would have done any + thing to accomplish this object. The extensive connections which I + had throughout Suse, Sahara, and even at Timbuctoo, would have + facilitated my operations; but my connections in England were not + such as to enable me to engage advantageously in this enterprise, I + was obliged, therefore, though reluctantly, to decline it, +145 although, if otherwise situated, I might have realised an + independent fortune in two or three years at Tomie, besides having + a most favourable opportunity of opening a trade with Timbuctoo, + and other territories of Sudan. + + I now felt a strong inclination to visit the port of Messa, which + was reported to have been about two centuries before, a + considerable port of trade, and the capital of Suse, when that + country was a separate kingdom, and the state-prisoners were + banished to Sejin-messa[120], (commonly called Segelmessa in the + maps;) as the state prisoners of Marocco have been from time + immemorial, and are to this day sent to Tafilelt, which territory + lies contiguous to, and west of Sejin-messa. We started for Messa + in the morning, and reached the town in the afternoon. Delemy sent + a strong guard with me for protection, with an injunction to his + friend the _fakeer_ of Messa, to treat me as his friend and guest, + and to do whatever he could to gratify my curiosity in every + respect. The country about Messa is very picturesque, and + productive: the river also abounds with romantic scenery, it has a + sandbar at its entrance to the ocean, which is dry at low water; + but it was once navigable several miles up, as was reported to me. + On the south bank of the river, about two miles from the sea, is a +146 gold-mine, in the territory of a tribe hostile to Delemy, but the + influence of the Fakeer, who is held in reverential awe, enabled us + to examine it without danger. What they told us was the entrance, + was filled with immense large pieces of rock-stone; and I was + informed, that when the Christians left the place, (the Portuguese, + no doubt,) they placed these stones at the entrance of the mine, to + prevent the natives from getting access to it. In the bed of the + river, near the sea, is a mine of silver; the ore is in very small + particles, like lead-coloured sand, intermixed with mud. I sent a + small quantity of this to England to be analysed; and it produced, + as I was informed, just enough to pay the expenses of analysation. + I sent also several specimens of gold and silver ore, which I + collected in various parts of Suse; but I apprehend that sufficient + attention was not paid to them, and they also scarcely paid for the + analysation. I sent also to the Honourable Mr. Greville, brother to + the late Earl of Warwick, a great many basaltick and other stones, + collected in the mountains of Barbary, which that gentleman + considered valuable. After remaining two days at Messa, I returned + to Shtuka. I was again urged to form an establishment at Tomie; + but, limited as my connection was in England, I did not feel + competent to the undertaking, and was obliged, reluctantly indeed, + but finally, to decline it. + + [Footnote 120: Sejin Messa signifies the prison of Messa.] + + The garden of Delemy, where we encamped, is stocked with very fine +147 vines from the mountains of Idautenan,[121] a mountainous and + independent country, a few miles north of Santa Cruz; these grapes + were of the black or purple kind, as big as an ordinary-sized + walnut, and very sweet flavoured, as much superior to the finest + Spanish grapes, as the latter are superior to the natural grown + grapes of England. Large pomegranates, exquisitely sweet, the + grains very large, and the seed small, brought from Terodant; figs, + peaches, apricots, strawberries, oranges, citrons of an enormous + size, water-melons, weighing fifty pounds each, four of which were + a camel load, together with culinary vegetables of every + description. This garden was watered by a well, having what is + called a Persian wheel, worked by a horse, having pots all round + the perpendicular wheel, which, as they turn round, discharge their + contents into a trough, which communicated to the garden, and laid +148 the beds under water. This is the general mode of irrigation + throughout west and south Barbary, as well as in Sudan. + + [Footnote 121: The mountains of Idautenan divide the province + of Haha from Suse: they are exempt from _Ska u Laskor_, that + is, two per cent. on live stock, and 10 per cent. on produce + which is the regular impost on the country. They are a brave + race of Shelluhs, inhabiting a table-land in the mountains that + is a perfect terrestrial paradise. There is but one person in + Europe besides myself who has ever been in this country. Sheik + Muluke, the sheik of Idautenan, is a generous noble-spirited + independent character. When an emperor dies, the sheik sends + Muley Ismael's firman, emancipating the district from all + impost or contribution to the revenue, for some military + service rendered by this district to the ancestor of Ismael, + and the succeeding emperors invariably confirm their + emancipation of Idautenan.] + + The Prince was very anxious to be of service to Delemy, who had + ingratiated himself with the former, by signalising himself in + feats of arms. He had been also a main pillar to the throne, and I + sincerely regretted that the combination of circumstances did not + permit me to accept the liberal and advantageous offers made to me. + + Delemy's renown had spread far to the south, even unto Sudan: from + the latter country he was visited by some people, who wore circular + rings of pure gold, through the cartilage of the nose. The rings + were two or three inches in diameter; and when these people ate, + they turned them up over the nose. Delemy had received a present, + from some king of Sudan, of a very elegant sword, ornamented with + diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, he showed me this sword, which was + evidently manufactured in Europe; he told me, he had been offered + 5000 dollars for it; but he had been informed that it was worth + double that sum. + + I was invited by the Khalif of Suse to visit the immensely + extensive plantations of olives at Ras el Wed, near Terodant, + through which a man may proceed a whole day's journey without + exposure to the sun: also he offered to accompany me to the eastern + part of Shtuka, where the produce of bitter and sweet almonds is + equally abundant, and the plantations equally extensive with those +149 of the olive at Ras el Wed; but I had seen plantations of both on a + smaller scale at Ait-Musie, Fruga, and other parts of this empire; + and therefore the sight would have been no novelty, except in + extent. I understood these plantations were on the same plan and + principle with those I had seen, leaving at certain distances, + square openings, to admit the air, for the better promotion of the + growth and increase of the fruit and produce of the trees. + + The Prince was preparing to depart through Draha, and Bled el + Jereed, to Tafilelt; and we had our audience of leave previous to + his departure. +150 + + LETTER XIX. + + _Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers ventured to + pass, owing to civil War and Contention among the Kabyles.--Moorish + Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use of Travellers.--Travelled + with a trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or + Incumbrances.--Nature of the Warfare in the Land. Bitter Effects of + Revenge and Retaliation on the Happiness of Society.--Origin of + these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles.--Presented with + Honey and Butter for Breakfast.--Patriarchal Manner of living among + the Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham.--Aromatic + Honey.--Ceremony at Meals, and Mode of eating.--Travelled all + Night, and slept in the open Air;--Method of avoiding the + Night-dew, as practised by the Natives.--Arrival at Mogodor_. + + TO THE SAME. + + Santa Cruz, April 7, 1795. + + The province of Haha was in arms; caffilahs, and travellers could + not pass; but it was expedient that I should go to Mogodor. Men of + property in this country, influenced by a philanthropic spirit, + often expend large sums in digging wells in districts, through + which caffilahs pass, on their road from one country to another. I + knew one of these philanthropists who was at Santa Cruz, and who + had recently benefited the province of Haha, by having dug a well +151 in the Kabyl of Benitamer, a mountainous district in Haha; I sent + for him, and as he was under obligations to me for various services + I had rendered to him and his family, he consented to accompany me + to Mogodor, through the disturbed province of Haha; and he assured + me, that his influence throughout that province was such, that, by + travelling quick, and without any baggage, tents, or incumbrances, + he did not doubt of conducting me safe to Mogodor. I agreed to go + with him, without servants, tents, or bedding, being determined to + reconcile myself, under present circumstances, to the accommodation + the country might afford. We started from Santa Cruz at sun-set; + travelling through Tamaract, to the river Beni Tamur. We continued + our journey till we arrived, at the dawn of day, at the foot of + immense high mountains, called Idiaugomoron. Here my companion and + guide L'Hage Muhamed bu Zurrawel, pointed out to me two castellated + houses, about two miles distant from each other; the + family-quarrels of these people had produced such animosity, that + the inhabitants of neither house could with safety go out, for fear + of being overpowered and killed by those of the other; so that + wherever they went, they were well armed, but dared not go far. + These two families were preparing for a siege, which often happens + in this province. Thus the inhabitants of one house attack another, + and sometimes exterminate or put to death the whole family, with + their retainers. The province of Haha was thus in a state of the +152 most lamentable civil war, originating from these family-quarrels + and domestic feuds. The heathen and anti-christian principle of + revenge and retaliation, is here pursued with such bitter and + obstinate animosity, that I have known instances of men + relinquishing their vocation, to go into a far country to revenge + the blood of a relation after a lapse of twenty years, and pursue + the object of his revenge, for some murder committed in his family, + perhaps forty or fifty years before. + + To a British public, blessed with the benign influences of the + Christian doctrine, it is perhaps necessary that I should elucidate + this retaliative doctrine by an example:--Two men quarrel, and + fight; they draw their kumaeyas (curved daggers about 12 inches + long), which all the people of Haha wear, as well as all the clans + or kabyles of Shelluhs; and if one happens to give his antagonist a + _deadly_ wound, it becomes an indispensable duty in the next of kin + to the person killed or murdered, (though perhaps it can hardly be + termed a murder, as it is not committed, like an European duel, in + cold blood, but in the moment of irritation, and at a period when + the mind is under the influence of anger,) to seek his revenge by + watching an opportunity to kill the survivor in the contest. If the + former should die, his next of kin takes his place, and pursues his + enemy, whose life is never safe; insomuch that, whole kabyles, when + this deadly animosity has reached its acme, have been known to quit +153 their country and emigrate into the Sahara; for when the second + death has been inflicted, it then becomes the incumbent duty of the + next of kin of the deceased to seek his revenge: they call this + justifying blood. This horrible custom has the most lamentable + influence on the happiness of human life; for there will sometimes + be several individuals seeking the life of one man, till this + principle, pervading all the ramifications of relationship and + consanguinity, produces family-broils, hostility, and murder, _ad + infinitum!!_ We stopped at a friend of L'Hage Muhamed, who + presented us with honey and butter, thin shavings of the latter + being let to fall into a bowl of honey for breakfast. This bowl was + served up with flat cakes kneaded without leaven, and baked on hot + stones; these are converted from corn into food in less than half + an hour; they are in shape similar to our crumpets or pancakes. We + were pressed by this Shelluh to stay and dine with him, which being + agreed to, he sent a shepherd to his flock to kill a fat young kid, + which was roasted with a wooden spit, before the vital heat had + subsided, which was very tender, and of an exquisite flavour. The + bread or cakes above described appear to be similar to what the + women kneaded for the guests in the patriarchal ages: indeed, the + customs of these people, as well as those of the Arabs, is + precisely the same as they were in the patriarchal ages, and which + are delineated in the 18th chapter of Genesis, 1st to the 8th + verse. +154 + The honey of this province is very fine: it has an aromatic + flavour, derived from the wild thyme and other aromatic herbs on + which the bees feed. Among these people every meal is preceded with + a washing of their hands with water, which is brought round for the + purpose in a brass pan; each guest dips his right hand in the pan, + and a napkin is presented to wipe them; they then break the bread, + and, after saying grace, which is universally this,--_bismillah_, + i.e. "in the name of God," each guest takes a bit of bread, dips it + in the honey and butter, and eats it. It is reckoned uncourteous or + vulgar to bite the bread; therefore the piece broken off is + sufficient for a mouthful, so that there is nothing that should + offend a delicate appetite in this antique mode of eating. We + remained several hours with our hospitable Shelluh friend; and we + departed, after taking a little sleep, at four o'clock in the + afternoon. Travelling all night, we arrived, at the dawn of day, at + a large house in Idaugourd; the Shelluh to whom it belonged brought + us carpets, and we slept under the wall of his house till the sun + arose. The people of this country prefer sleeping in the open air + to a room, and they have an excellent mode of securing themselves + from the heavy dews of the night, by covering their heads and faces + with a thin woollen hayk or garment, which they throw over their + heads and faces. When I have had the Arabs of Sahara (who have + conducted the caffilahs from Timbuctoo) at my house at Santa Cruz, +155 I gave them a long narrow room, 48 feet long, which was called + (_beet assuda_) the apartment of Sudan, to sleep in; but they + invariably came out at night, and placed their carpets and mats, as + beds, outside of the room, and slept under the balustrade, in + preference to the confinement, as they called it, of a room. + + We rose at sun-rise, passed through the picturesque district of + Idaugourd and the Woolja, and entered Mogodor at four o'clock, P.M. +156 + + + + AN ACCOUNT + OF THE + RISE, PROGRESS, AND DECREASE + OF + THE PLAGUE + _That ravaged Barbary in_ 1799; + FAITHFULLY EXTRACTED FROM + LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE HOUSE OF JAMES JACKSON + AND CO., OR BY JAMES G. JACKSON, + MERCHANTS AT MOGODOR, + TO THEIR CORRESPONDENTS IN EUROPE, DURING THE + EPIDEMY. + + * * * * * + + _Fragments respecting the Plague_. + + When the Emperor's army proceeded from Fas to Marocco in the summer + of 1799, a detachment of which passed by Mogodor, consisting of + 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot, it had the plague with it; so that, + wherever it passed, the plague uniformly appeared three days after + its arrival at the respective douars near which it encamped; those + who died were buried in the tents, and the people of the provinces + knew little about it. + + A large _akkaba_[122], consisting of upwards of 1700 camels, +157 arrived 23d August, 1799, at Akka from Timbuctoo, laden with + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, and gold dust, which had brought also + many slaves; this _akkaba_ had deposited its merchandize at Akka, + till the plague should disappear and the country become healthy; as + the people of that territory, unlike Muhamedans in general, will + hold no communication with the infected, nor will they admit any + one from these parts. + + [Footnote 122: An _akkaba_ is an accumulated caravan.] + + Mogodor, April 31, 1799. + + A violent fever now rages at Fas: some assert it to be the plague, + but that is Moorish report, and little to be depended on; the + European consuls at Tangier, and the Spanish ambassador, who, + having terminated his embassy, has lately left Mequinas, mention it + as an epidemical disorder. + + May 20. The small-pox rages violently throughout this country, and + is of a most virulent kind: its origin is ascribed to the famine + that has of late pervaded this country, and which was produced by + the incredible devastation of the devouring locusts; the dregs of + olives, after the oil had been extracted, has been the only food + that could be procured by many thousands. + + Mogodor, June 14, 1799. + + Various reports reach us daily from _the city of Marocco_, + respecting the epidemy that prevails there, some say 200 die, some +158 say 100, others limit the daily mortality to 50, in a population, + according to the imperial register, of 270,000. + + When any _light_ rain falls, as is the case at Marocco at this + season of the year, the mortality increases. Mr. Francisco Chiappe, + an Italian merchant, is just arrived from Marocco, and is + performing quarantine, by his own desire, at the Emperor's + garden.[123] This gentleman reports, that the greater portion of + the people die of fear, from hunger, or bad food, or from the + small-pox, which latter has raged at Marocco the last month or two; + but he had not been able to ascertain, so various were the reports, + whether it was the plague or not. The emperor's army, a division of + which passed through this country, and encamped at the river, about + two miles south of this port, had the distemper with it. We have + been assured, that the soldiers who died, were immediately buried + within the tents, so that, by this stratagem, the mortality was not + perceived by the public; it was apprehended that, if the mortality + were known, the kabyls, through which the army passed from Mequinas + to Marocco, would not have supplied the troops with provision. This + detachment consisted of 20,000 horse and 10,000 foot. No disorder + has yet appeared here, nor in the adjacent provinces of Shedma and + Haha. + + [Footnote 123: A garden in the province of Haha, five miles + from Mogodor, that was presented to the European merchants by + the late sultan, Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah.] +159 + July 5. We dispatched the Spanish brig yesterday; but she is still + at anchor in the road, waiting for passengers, who fly from hence + with precipitation, from fear of the fever or plague, which + prevails at Fas and at Marocco, and which, it is reported, has made + its appearance at the port of Saffy. We have, however, nothing of + the kind here yet, though we expect we shall not escape the general + scourge. + + July 13. The epidemy in the interior provinces has greatly + augmented, insomuch, that the demand for linen to bury the dead + rapidly increases, and the stock is almost exhausted. This article + has risen to an unprecedented price. All the relatives of L'Hage + Abdallah have fallen victims to the epidemy. This gentleman is + consequently in possession of very considerable property; and (if + he be not also carried off) there will be no fear of our recovering + the debt he owes you. + + We cannot ascertain if the disorder prevails in the outer town, and + in the Jews' quarter, or not; it is certain, however, that eight or + ten die daily of the small-pox, and as many more of fevers and + other disorders, as report proclaims. + + July 25. We are so much engaged in making arrangements against the + epidemy, which is now confidently reported to us to be the plague, + of a most deadly species, that we have only time to refer you to + the captain of the Aurora, to whom we have communicated every +160 particular, and who is extremely anxious to be off for England. The + deaths in this town, which contained a population of 10,000, + according to the imperial register, are from forty to fifty each + day. + + Aug. 1. As the plague now rages violently here, no one thinks of + business or the affairs of this world; but each individual + anticipates that he will be next called away. I send the inclosed, + to be forwarded to Mr. Andrea de Christo, at Amsterdam, to announce + to him the sudden death of his partner, Mr. J. Pacifico, who is + lately dead of the plague. I paid him a visit a few hours before + his death; I met there Don Pedro de Victoria, who was smoking a + segar; he offered me one, and urged me to smoke it. I believe that + the smoke of tobacco is anti-pestilential; this, added to the + precaution of avoiding contact, and inhalation of the breath of the + person infected, appears to be quite sufficient to secure a person + from infection. + + Aug. 1. (Translation of a letter to Mr. Andrea de Christi, merchant + at Amsterdam.) We are sorry that the subject of this letter is so + melancholy. All our domestics have left us; the plague rages so + violently here, that the daily mortality is from sixty to seventy, + among which we are sorry to announce the death of your partner, Mr. + J. Pacifico, who died two days since. + + August 23. The best gum is selling at Akka for six dollars a + quintal: they will not bring it here, fearing the infection. A +161 large Brazil ship has been wrecked off Cape Noon, her cargo, + consisting for the most part of silks and linens, is estimated at + half a million of dollars. The Arabs of Sahara convert the most + beautiful lace into bridles for their horses, by twisting it; and + superior silk stockings are selling at Wedinoon at a dollar per + dozen pair. The plague is rapidly diminishing from 100 deaths to 20 + or 30 per day. Meeman Corcoes is dead, as well as most of the + principal tradesmen of Marocco and Fas; whole families have been + swept off, and there is none left to inherit their property. + Immense droves of horses, mules, and cattle of every description + stray in the plains without owners. + + September 5. The plague continues to decrease; and in another month + we expect to be quite free from it. Signor Conton died this morning + of the epidemy; yesterday afternoon he was apparently quite well, + and paid me a visit. He wished me to shake hands with him, which I + declined, alleging as an excuse, that I would dispense with that + custom till the plague should pass over. He drank a glass of wine, + and appeared cheerful and in good health. I have had fixed in my + dining room, a table that extends from one end to the other. I walk + or sit on one side of the table, my visitors on the other. I am + only cautious to avoid personal contact. All the houses of the + other merchants are closely barricaded or bolted. A fumigating pot +162 of gum sandrac stands at the entrance of my house, continually + burning, which diffuses an agreeable perfume, but is not, as I + apprehend, an antidote to the epidemy. + + October 1. We have to apprise you of the decease of L'Hage Abdallah + El Hareishy, most of whose relations are dead. His brother is the + only one of the family besides himself that remains: he has + inherited considerable property, and thence will be enabled to pay + your bill on him in our favour. + + October 29. The plague appears to have ceased in this town. All the + merchants have opened their houses; but the disorder continues in + the provinces, from whence there is little or no communication with + the town. The kabyls seem to be wholly engaged in burying their + dead, in arranging the affairs of their respective families, in + dividing the property inherited by them, and in administering + consolation to the sick. + + Nov. 11. The plague having committed incalculable ravages + throughout this country, had put a stop to all commerce, which now + begins to revive, in proportion as that calamity subsides. Linens + are selling to great advantage, a cargo would now render 60 per + cent. profit, clear of all charges. + + Nov. 29. The deadly epidemy that has lately visited us, and which +163 at one period carried off above 100 each day, has now confined its + daily mortality to two or three; some days none. When, however, the + Arabs of Shedma, and the Shelluhs of Haha come to town, and bring + the clothes of their deceased relations for sale, the epidemy + increases to three, four, and five a day; then, in three or four + days, it declines again to its former number, one, two, or three. + We have reason to expect, that, before the vessels which we expect + from London shall arrive, the plague will have subsided entirely. + + Mogodor, Dec. 12. 1799. The plague or mortality of this town is now + reduced to three or four weekly. + + OBSERVATION. + + After the plague had subsided, a murrain attacked the cattle, and + great numbers of all kinds died; so that they became reduced in the + same proportion as the race of man had been reduced before. + + _Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. Jackson_. + + Gibraltar, 28th Oct. 1799. + + Dear Jackson; + + Within a few days of each other, I received your packets of the +164 21st of September, and 8th instant. Their inclosures are of course + taken care of. Your letter about Soke Assa was received, and sent + home to government ages ago. + + I never could understand the drift of the people either at Tangier + or Mogodor, in asserting that my report of the plague was + political. God knows, that our politics in Barbary are never + remarkable for refinement: they are, if any thing, rather too much + in the John Bull style; and the finesse they gave me such credit + for, was absolutely beyond my comprehension, as I never could + discover what advantage a genuine well-established plague in + Barbary could be to our country. Of its existence I had not the + shadow of doubt, for more than eight months before it was talked + of; and when Doctor Bell was going that way, I begged of him to be + particular in his enquiries, which he, as usual, neglected. When + John Salmon[124] was up, he was _very particular_, and _I_ of + course was laughed at. _Here_ I saw politics, and told all the + gentlemen, that when Salmon[125] arrived at Tariffa, then, and not + till then, we should have the plague in Barbary; and just so it + turned out. + + [Footnote 124: John Salmon was Spanish envoy to the emperor of + Marocco, and was at this time up at Fas, _i.e._ on his + embassy.] + + [Footnote 125: Arrived at Tariffa, and so secured his admission + into Spain on his return from his embassy.] +165 + I am confident, if my advice had been taken, the disease might have + been checked in the beginning; for it was almost three quarters of + a year confined to _old_ Fas. I wrote in the most pressing manner + to Ben Ottoman[126], who never believed me. A few days before he + was seized with it, he wrote me a melancholy letter for advice, and + pathetically lamented that he had not listened to me in time; and I + suppose that even Broussonet[127] believed me when he embarked. I + hope your opinion that it diminishes with you will prove well + founded; but I fear its ravages are only suspended by the great + heats; besides, you should recollect that people cannot die twice, + and with a population so diminished, you must not expect so many as + formerly on your daily dead-list. Mrs. M., who desires her + remembrance to you, is well, but barring plague, would rather be at + Tangier than Gibraltar; so would I. + + Ever truly thine, + + J. MATRA. + + [Footnote 126: The emperor's prime-minister, or _talb cadus_ at + that time.] + + [Footnote 127: Dr. Broussonet, French consul. This gentleman + was intendant of the botanical garden at Montpelier: he, with + another doctor embarked for Europe just as the plague began to + appear at Mogodor in the year 1799.] +166 + _Some Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depopulated + West Barbary in 1799 and 1800, and to the Effects of which the + Author was an eye-witness._ + + From various circumstances and appearances, and from the character + of the epidemical distemper which raged lately in the south of + Spain, there is every reason to suppose, it was similar to that + distemper or plague which depopulated West Barbary; for, whether we + call it by the more reconcileable appellation of the epidemy, or + yellow fever, it was undoubtedly a plague, and a most destructive + one; for wherever it prevailed, it invariably carried off, in a few + months, one-half, or one-third, of the population. + + It does not appear how the plague originated in Fas in the year + 1799.[128] Some persons, who were there at the time it broke out, + have confidently ascribed it to infected merchandise imported into + that place from the East; whilst others, of equal veracity and + judgment, have not scrupled to ascribe it to the locusts which had + infested West Barbary during the seven preceding years, the + destruction of which was followed by the (_jedrie_) small-pox, +167 which pervaded the country, and was generally fatal. The _jedrie_ + is supposed to be the forerunner of this species of epidemy, as + appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, which gives an account of + the same disorder having carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants + of West Barbary about four centuries since. But however this + destructive epidemy originated, its leading features were novel, + and its consequences more dreadful than the common plague of + Turkey, or that of Syria, or Egypt. Let every one freely declare + his own sentiments about it; let him assign any credible account of + its rise, or the causes that introduced so terrible a scene. I + shall relate only what its symptoms were, what it actually was, and + how it terminated, having been an eye-witness of its dreadful + effects, and having seen and visited many who were afflicted, and + who were dying with it. + + [Footnote 128: See the Author's observations, in a letter to + Mr. Willis, in Gentleman's Magazine, February, 1805.] + + In the month of April, 1799, a dreadful plague, of a most + destructive nature, manifested itself in the city of Old Fas, which + soon after communicated itself to the new city. This unparalleled + calamity, carried off one or two the first day, three or four the + second day, six or eight the third day, and increasing + progressively, until the mortality amounted to two in the hundred + of the aggregate population, continuing _with unabating violence_, + ten, fifteen, or twenty days; being of longer duration in old than + in new towns; then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one +168 thousand a day to nine hundred, then to eight hundred, and so on + until it disappeared. Whatever recourse was had to medicine and to + physicians was unavailing; so that such expedients were at length + totally relinquished, and the people, overpowered by this terrible + scourge, lost all hopes of surviving it. + + Whilst it raged in the town of Mogodor, a small village, _Diabet_, + situated about two miles south-east of that place, remained + uninfected, although the communication was open between them: on + the _thirty-fourth day_, however, after its first appearance at + Mogodor, this village was discovered to be infected, and the + disorder raged with great violence, making dreadful havock among + the human species for _twenty-one_ days, carrying off, during that + period, one hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, + the original population of the village, before the plague visited + it; none died after this, and those who were infected, recovered in + the course of a month or two, some losing an eye, or the use of a + leg or an arm. + + Many similar circumstances might be here adduced relative to the + numerous and populous villages dispersed through the extensive + Shelluh province of Haha, all which shared a similar or a worse + fate. Travelling through this province shortly after the plague had + exhausted itself, I saw many uninhabited ruins, which I had before + witnessed as flourishing villages; on making enquiry concerning the +169 population of these dismal remains, I was informed that in one + village, which contained six hundred inhabitants, four persons only + had escaped the ravage. Other villages, which had contained four or + five hundred, had only seven or eight survivors left to relate the + calamities they had suffered. Families which had retired to the + country to avoid the infection, on returning to town, when all + infection had apparently ceased, were generally attacked, and died; + a singular instance of this kind happened at Mogodor, where, after + the mortality had subsided, a corps of troops arrived from the city + of Terodant, in the province of Suse, where the plague had been + raging, and had subsided; these troops, after remaining three days + at Mogodor, were attacked with the disease, and it raged + exclusively among them for about a month, during which it carried + off two-thirds of their original number, one hundred men; during + this interval the other inhabitants of the town were exempt from + the disorder, though these troops were not confined to any + particular quarter, many of them having had apartments in the + houses of the inhabitants of the town. + + The destruction of the human species in the province of Suse was + considerably greater than elsewhere; Terodant, formerly the + metropolis of a kingdom, but now that of Suse, lost, when the + infection was at its acme, about eight hundred each day; the +170 ruined, but still extensive city of Marocco[129], lost one thousand + each day; the populous cities of Old and New Fas diminished in + population twelve or fifteen hundred each day[130], insomuch, that + in these extensive cities, the mortality was so great, that the + living having not time to bury the dead, the bodies were deposited + or thrown altogether into large holes, which, when nearly full, + were covered over with earth. All regulations in matters of + sepulture before observed were now no longer regarded; things + sacred and things prophane had now lost their distinction, and + universal despair pervaded mankind. Young, healthy, and robust + persons of full stamina, were, for the most part, attacked first, + then women and children, and lastly, thin, sickly, emaciated, and + old people. + + [Footnote 129: I have been informed that there are still at + Marocco, apartments wherein the dead were placed; and that + after the whole family was swept away the doors were built up, + and remain so to this day.] + + [Footnote 130: There died, during the whole of the above + periods, in the city of Marocco, 50,000; in Fas, 65,000; in + Mogodor, 4500; and in Saffy, 5000; in all 124,500 souls!] + + After this violent and deadly calamity had subsided, we beheld a + general alteration in the fortunes and circumstances of men; we saw + persons who before the plague were common labourers, now in + possession of thousands, and keeping horses without knowing how to + ride them. Parties of this description were met wherever we went, +171 and the men of family called them in derision _el wuratu_, the + inheritors.[131] Provisions also became extremely cheap and + abundant; the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + there was now no one to own them; and the propensity to plunder, so + notoriously attached to the character of the Arab, as well as to + the Shelluh and Moor, was superseded by a conscientious regard to + justice, originating from a continual apprehension of dissolution, + and that the _el khere_[132], as the plague was now called, was a + judgment of the Omnipotent on the disobedience of man, and that it + behoved every individual to amend his conduct, as a preparation to + his departure for paradise. + + [Footnote 131: _Des gens parvenus_, as the French express it; + or upstarts.] + + [Footnote 132: The good, or benediction.] + + The expense of labour at the same time increased enormously[133], + and never was equality in the human species more conspicuous than + at this time; when corn was to be ground, or bread baked, both were + performed in the houses of the affluent, and prepared by + themselves, for the very few people whom the plague had spared, + were insufficient to administer to the wants of the rich and + independent, and they were accordingly compelled to work for + themselves, performing personally the menial offices of their + respective families. +172 + [Footnote 133: At this time I received from Marocco a caravan + of many camel-loads of bees-wax, in serrons containing 200 lbs. + each; I sent for workmen to place them one upon another, and + they demanded one dollar per serron for so moving them.] + + The country being now depopulated, and much of the territory + without owners, vast tribes of Arabs emigrated from their abodes in + the interior of Sahara, and took possession of the country + contiguous to the river Draha, as well as many districts in Suse; + and, in short, settling themselves, and pitching their tents + wherever they found a fertile country with little or no population. + + The symptoms of this plague varied in different patients, the + variety of age and constitution gave it a like variety of + appearance and character. Those who enjoyed perfect health were + suddenly seized with head-aches and inflammations; the tongue and + throat became of a vivid red, the breath was drawn with difficulty, + and was succeeded by sneezing and hoarseness; when once settled in + the stomach, it excited vomitings of black bile, attended with + excessive torture, weakness, hiccough, and convulsion. Some were + seized with sudden shivering, or delirium, and had a sensation of + such intense inward heat, that they threw off their clothes, and + would have walked about naked in quest of water wherein to plunge + themselves. Cold water was eagerly resorted to by the unwary and + imprudent, and proved fatal to those who indulged in its momentary + relief. Some had one, two, or more buboes, which formed themselves, +173 and became often as large as a walnut, in the course of a day; + others had a similar number of carbuncles; others had both buboes + and carbuncles, which generally appeared in the groin, under the + arm, or near the breast. Those who were affected[134] with a + shivering, having no buboe, carbuncle, spots, or any other exterior + disfiguration, were invariably carried off in less than twenty-four + hours, and the body of the deceased became quickly putrified, so + that it was indispensably necessary to bury it a few hours after + dissolution. It is remarkable, that the birds of the air fled away + from the abode of men, for none were to be seen during this +174 calamitous period; the hyaenas, on the contrary, visited the + cemeteries, and sought the dead bodies to devour them. I + recommended Mr. Baldwin's[135] invaluable remedy of olive oil, + applied according to his directions; several Jews, and some + Muselmin[136], were induced to try it, and I was afterwards visited + by many, to whom I had recommended it, and had given them written + directions in Arabic how to apply it: and I do not know any + instance of its failing when persevered in, even after the + infection had manifested itself. + + [Footnote 134: _M'drob_ is an idiom in the Arabic language + somewhat difficult to render into English; it is well known + that the Muhamedans are predestinarians, and that they believe + in the existence of spirits, devils, &c.; their idea of the + plague is, that it is a good or blessing sent from God to clear + the world of a superfluous population--that no medicine or + precaution can cure or prevent it; that every one who is to be + a victim to it is (_mktube_) recorded in the Book of Fate; that + there are certain Genii who preside over the fate of men, and + who sometimes discover themselves in various forms, having + often legs similar to those of fowls: that these Genii are + armed with arrows: that when a person is attacked by the + plague, which is called in Arabic _l'amer_, or the destiny or + decree, he is shot by one of these Genii, and the sensation of + the invisible wound is similar to that from a musquet-ball; + hence the universal application of _M'drob_ to a person + afflicted with the plague, i.e. he is shot; and if he die, + _ufah ameruh_, his destiny is completed or terminated (in this + world). I scarcely ever yet saw the Muselman who did not affirm + that he had at some time of his life seen these Genii; and they + often appear, they say, in rivers.] + + [Footnote 135: Late British Consul in Egypt.] + + [Footnote 136: Muselman, sing.: Muselmin. plur.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy which made its appearance at Cadiz, + and all along the southern shores of Spain, immediately as the + plague was subsiding in West Barbary, was the same disorder with + the one above described, suffering, after its passage to a + Christian country, some variation, originating from the different + modes of living, and other circumstances; for nothing can be more + opposite than the food, dress, customs, and manners of Muhamedans + and Christians, notwithstanding the approximation of Spain to + Marocco. We have been credibly informed, that it was communicated + originally to Spain, by two infected persons, who went from Tangier + to Estapona, a small village on the opposite shore; who, after + eluding the vigilance of the guards, reached Cadiz. We have also + been assured that it was communicated by some infected persons who +175 landed in Spain, from a vessel that had loaded produce at L'Araiche + in West Barbary. Another account was, that a Spanish privateer, + which had occasion to land its crew for the purpose of procuring + water in some part of West Barbary, caught the infection from + communicating with the natives, and afterwards proceeding to Cadiz, + and spread it in that town and the adjacent country. + + It should be observed, for the information of those who may be + desirous of investigating the nature of this extraordinary + distemper, that, from its character and its symptoms, approximating + to the peculiar plague, which (according to the before mentioned + Arabic record) ravaged and depopulated West Barbary four centuries + since, the Arabs and Moors were of opinion it would subside after + the first year, and not appear again the next, as the Egyptian + plague does; and agreeably to this opinion, it did not re-appear + the second year: neither did St. John's day, or that season, affect + its virulence; but about that period there prevails along the coast + of West Barbary, a trade-wind, which, beginning to blow in the + month of May, continues throughout the months of June, July, and + August, with little intermission. It was apprehended that the + influence of this trade-wind, added to the superstitious opinion of + the plague ceasing on St. John's day, would stop, or at least + sensibly diminish the mortality; but no such thing happened: the + wind did set in, as it invariably does, about St. John's day; the +176 disorder, however, increased at that period, rather than + diminished. Some persons were of opinion, that the infection + maintained its virulence till the last; that the decrease of + mortality did not originate from a decrease of the _miasma_, but + from a decrease of population, and a consequent want of subjects to + prey upon; and this indeed is a plausible idea; but admitting it to + be just, how are we to account for the almost invariable fatality + of the disorder, when at its height, and the comparative innocence + of it when on the decline? for _then_, the chance to those who had + it, was, that they would recover and survive the malady. + + The old men seemed to indulge in a superstitious tradition, that + when this peculiar kind of epidemy attacks a country, it does not + return or continue for three or more years, but disappears + altogether, (after the first year,) and is followed the seventh + year by contagious rheums and expectoration, the violence of which + lasts from three to seven days, but is not fatal. Whether this + opinion be in general founded in truth I cannot determine; but in + the spring of the year 1806, which was the seventh year from the + appearance of the plague at Fas in 1799, a species of influenza + pervaded the whole country; the patient going to bed well, and, on + rising in the morning, a thick phlegm was expectorated, accompanied + by a distressing rheum, or cold in the head, with a cough, which + quickly reduced those affected to extreme weakness, but was seldom + fatal, continuing from three to seven days, with more or less + violence, and then gradually disappearing. +177 + During the plague at Mogodor, the European merchants shut + themselves up in their respective houses, as is the practice in the + Levant; I did not take this precaution, but occasionally rode out + to take exercise on horseback. Riding one day out of the town, I + met the Governor's brother, who asked me where I was going, when + every other European was shut up? "To the garden," I + answered.--"And are you not aware that the garden and the adjacent + country is full of (_Jinune_) departed souls, who are busy in + smiting with the plague every one they meet?" I could not help + smiling, but told him, that I trusted to God only, who would not + allow any of the _Jinune_ to smite me unless it were his sovereign + will, and that if it were, he could effect it without the agency of + _Jinune_. On my return to town in the evening, the beach, from the + town-gate to the sanctuary of Seedi,[137] Mogodole was covered with + biers. My daily observations convinced me that the epidemy was not + caught by approach, unless that approach was accompanied by an + inhaling of the breath, or by touching the infected person; I + therefore had a separation made across the gallery, inside of my + house, between the kitchen and dining parlour, of the width of + three feet, which is sufficiently wide to prevent the inhaling the +178 breath of a person. From this partition or table of separation I + took the dishes, and after dinner returned them to the same place, + suffering none of the servants to come near me; and in the + accounting-house, I had a partition made to prevent the too near + approach of any person who might call on business; and this + precaution I firmly believe to be all that is necessary, added to + that of receiving money through vinegar, and taking care not to + touch or smell infectious substances. + + [Footnote 137: A sanctuary a mile south-east of the town of + Mogodor, from whence, the town receives its name.] + + Fear had an extraordinary effect in disposing the body to receive + the infection; and those who were subject thereto, invariably + caught the malady, which was for the most part fatal. At the + breaking out of the plague at Mogodor, there were two medical men, + an Italian and a Frenchman, the latter, a man of science, a great + botanist, and of an acute discrimination; they, however, did not + remain, but took the first opportunity of leaving the place for + Teneriffe, so that the few Europeans had no expectation of any + medical assistance except that of the natives. Plaisters of gum + ammoniac, and the juice of the leaves of the _opuntia_, or _kermuse + ensarrah_, _i.e._ prickly pear, were universally applied to the + carbuncles, as well as to the buboes, which quickly brought them to + suppuration: many of the people of property took copious draughts + of coffee and Peruvian bark. The _Vinaigre de quatre voleurs_, was +179 used by many, also camphor, smoking tobacco, or fumigations of gum + Sandrac; straw was also burned by some, who were of opinion, that + any thing which produced abundance of smoke, was sufficient to + purify the air of pestilential effluvia. + + During the existence of the plague, I had been in the chambers of + men on their death-bed: I had had Europeans at my table, who were + infected, as well as Moors, who actually had buboes on them; I took + no other precaution than that of separation, carefully avoiding to + touch the hand, or inhale the breath; and, notwithstanding what may + have been said, I am decidedly of opinion that the plague, at least + this peculiar species of it, is not produced by any infectious + principle in the atmosphere, but caught solely by touching infected + substances, or inhaling the breath of those who are diseased; and + that it must not be confounded with the common plague of Egypt, or + Constantinople, being a malady of a much more desperate and + destructive kind. It has been said, by persons who have discussed + the nature and character of the plague, that the cultivation of a + country, the draining of the lands, and other agricultural + improvements, tend to eradicate or diminish it; but, at the same + time, we have seen countries depopulated where there was no morass, + or stagnate water for many days' journey, nor even a tree to impede + the current of air, or a town, nor any thing but encampments of + Arabs, who procured water from wells of a great depth, and +180 inhabited plains so extensive and uniform, that they resemble the + sea, and are so similar in appearance after, as well as before + sun-rise, that if the eye could abstract itself from the spot + immediately surrounding the spectator, it could not be ascertained + whether it were sea or land. + + I shall now subjoin a few cases for the further elucidation of this + distemper, hoping that the medical reader will pardon any + inaccuracy originating from my not being a professional man. + + Case I.--One afternoon, I went into the kitchen, and saw the cook + making the bread; he appeared in good health and spirits; I + afterwards went into the adjoining parlour, and took up a book to + read; in half an hour the same man came to the door of the room, + with his eyes starting from his head, and his bed-clothes, &c. in + his hands, saying, "open the gate for me, for I am (_m'dorb_) + smitten." I was astonished at the sudden transition, and desired + him to go out, and I would follow and shut the gate. The next + morning he sent his wife out on an errand, and got out of bed, and + came to the gate half-dressed, saying that he was quite recovered, + and desired I would let him in. I did not, however, think it safe + to admit him, but told him to go back to his house for a few days, + until he should be able to ascertain that he was quite well; he + accordingly returned to his apartments, but expired that evening, + and before day-break his body was in such a state, that his feet +181 were actually putrified. His wife, by attending on him, caught the + infection, having a carbuncle, and also buboes, and was confined + two months before she recovered. + + Case II.--L'Hage Hamed O Bryhim, the old governor of Mogodor, had + twelve or more children, and four wives, who were all attacked, and + died (except only one young wife); he attended them successively to + the grave, and notwithstanding that he assisted in performing the + religious ceremony of washing the body, he never himself caught the + infection; he lived some years afterwards, and out of the whole + household, consisting of wives, concubines, children, and slaves, + he had but one person left, which was the before-mentioned young + wife: this lady, however, had received the infection, and was + confined some time before she recovered. + + Case. III.--Hamed ben A---- was smitten with the plague, which he + compared to the sensation of two musket balls fired at him, one in + each thigh; a giddiness and delirium succeeded, and immediately + afterwards a green vomiting, and he fell senseless to the ground; a + short time afterwards, on the two places where he had felt as if + shot, biles or buboes formed, and on suppurating, discharged a + foetid black pus; a (_jimmera_) carbuncle on the joint of the arm + near the elbow was full of thin ichor, contained in an elevated + skin, surrounded by a burning red colour; after three months' + confinement, being reduced to a skeleton, the disorder appeared to +182 have exhausted itself, and he began to recover his strength, which + in another month was fully reestablished. It was an observation + founded on daily experience, during the prevalence of this + disorder, that those who were attacked with a nausea at the + stomach, and a subsequent vomiting of green or yellow bile, + recovered after suffering in various degrees, and that those who + were affected with giddiness, or delirium, followed by a discharge + or vomiting of black bile, invariably died after lingering one, + two, or three days, their bodies being covered with small black + spots similar to grains of gun-powder; in this state, however, they + possessed their intellects, and spoke rationally till their + dissolution. + + When the constitution was not disposed, or had not vigour enough to + throw the miasma to the surface in the form of biles, buboes, + carbuncles, or blackish spots, the virulence is supposed to have + operated inwardly, or on the vital parts, and the patient died in + less than twenty-four hours, without any exterior disfiguration. + + Case IV.--It was reported that the Sultan had the plague twice + during the season, as many others had; so that the idea of its + attacking like the small-pox, a person but once in his life, is + refuted: the Sultan was cured by large doses of Peruvian bark + frequently repeated, and it was said that he found such infinite + benefit from it, that he advised his brothers never to travel + without having a good supply. The Emperor, since the plague, always + has by him a sufficient quantity of quill bark to supply his + emergency. +183 + Case V.--H.L. was smitten with the plague, which affected him by a + pain similar to that of a long needle (as he expressed himself) + repeatedly plunged into his groin. In an hour or two afterwards, a + (_jimmera_) carbuncle appeared in the groin, which continued + enlarging three days, at the expiration of which period he could + neither support the pain, nor conceal his sensations; he laid + himself down on a couch; an Arabian doctor, applied to the + carbuncles the testicles of a ram cut in half, whilst the vital + warmth was still in them; the carbuncle on the third day was + encreased to the size of a small orange; the before-mentioned + remedy was daily applied during thirty days, after which he + resorted to cataplasms of the juice of the (_opuntia_) prickly + pear-tree, (_feshook_) gum ammoniac, and (_zite el aud_) oil of + olives, of each one-third; this was intended to promote + suppuration, which was soon effected; there remained after the + suppuration a large vacuity, which was daily filled with fine hemp + dipped in honey; by means of this application the wound filled up, + and the whole was well in thirty-nine days. + + Case VI.--El H--t--e, a trading Jew of Mogodor, was sorely + afflicted; he called upon me, and requested some remedy; I advised + him to use oil of olives, and having Mr. Baldwin's mode of +184 administering it[138], I transcribed it in the Arabic language, and + gave it to him; he followed the prescription, and assured me, about + six weeks afterwards, that (with the blessing of God) he had + preserved his life by that remedy only; he said, that after having + been anointed with oil, his skin became harsh and dry like the + scales of a fish, but that in half an hour more, a profuse + perspiration came on, and continued for another half hour, after + which he experienced relief: this he repeated forty days, when, he + was quite recovered. + + [Footnote 138: Mr. Baldwin observed, that, whilst the plague + ravaged Egypt, the dealers in oil were not affected with the + epidemy; and he accordingly recommended people to anoint + themselves with oil every day as a remedy.] + + Case VII.--Moh--m'd ben A---- fell suddenly down in the street; he + was conveyed home; three carbuncles and five buboes appeared soon + after in his groin, under the joint of his knee, and arm-pits, and + inside the elbow; he died in three hours after the attack. + + Case VIII.--L.R. was suddenly smitten with this dreadful calamity, + whilst looking over some Marocco leather; he fell instantaneously; + afterwards, when he had recovered his senses, he described the + sensation as that of the pricking of needles, at every part wherein + the carbuncles afterwards appeared: he died the same day in + defiance of medicine. + + Case IX.--Mr. Pacifico, a merchant, was attacked, and felt a + pricking pain down the inside of the thick part of the thigh, near + the sinews; he was obliged to go to bed. I visited him the next + day, and was going to approach him, but he exclaimed, "Do not come +185 near for although I know I have not the prevailing distemper, yet + your friends, if you touch me, may persuade you otherwise, and that + might alarm you; I shall, I hope, be well in a few days." I took + the hint of Don Pedro de Victoria, a Spanish gentleman, who was in + the room, who, offering me a sagar, I smoked it, and then departed; + the next day the patient died. He was attended during his illness + by the philanthropic Monsieur Soubremont, who did not stir from his + bed-side till he expired; but after exposing himself in this + manner, escaped the infection, which proceeded, as he thought, from + his constantly having a pipe in his mouth. + + Case X.--Two of the principal Jews of the town giving themselves + up, and having no hope, were willing to employ the remainder of + their lives in affording assistance to the dying and the dead, by + washing the bodies and interring them; this business they performed + during thirty or forty days, during all which time they were not + attacked: when the plague had nearly subsided, and they began again + to cherish hopes of surviving the calamity, they were both smitten, + but after a few days' illness recovered, and are now living. + + From this last case, as well as from many others similar, but too + numerous here to recapitulate, it appears that the human + constitution requires a certain miasma, to prepare it to receive + the pestilential infection. + + _General Observation._--When the carbuncles or buboes appeared to +186 have a blackish rim round their base, the case of that patient was + desperate, and invariably fatal. Sometimes the whole body was + covered with black spots like partridge-shot; such patients always + fell victims to the disorder, and those who felt the blow + internally, showing no external disfiguration, seldom survived more + than a few hours. + + The plague appears to visit this country about once in every twenty + years[139]: the last visitation was in 1799 and 1800, being more + fatal than any ever before known. + + [Footnote 139: This opinion is confirmed by the plague, being + now (1820) in Marocco just twenty years since the last plague. + 65,000 persons have been lately carried off by this disease in + the cities of Old and New Fas.] + + * * * * * + + _Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last Year in + West Barbary, and which was imported from Egypt; communicated by + the Author to the Editor of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, + Science, and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great + Britain, No, 15, published in October, 1819._ + + His Majesty's ship, which was lying in the port of Alexandria, when + Colonel Fitzclarence passed through Egypt, from India, on his way + to England, convoyed to Tangier a vessel which had on board two of + the sons of Muley Soliman, emperor of Marocco; on their arrival at + Tangier, the princes immediately landed and proceeded to their + father at Fas; but it was discovered by the governor or alkaid of +187 Tangier, that during the passage some persons had died; and + accordingly the alkaid would not suffer any of the passengers to + land, except the princes, until he should have received orders from + the Emperor how to act; he accordingly wrote to Fas, for the + imperial orders, and in the mean time the princes arrived, and + presented themselves to the emperor: the latter wrote to the + alkaid, that as the princes had been suffered to land, it would be + unjust to prohibit the other passengers from coming ashore also. He + therefore ordered the alkaid to suffer all the passengers, together + with their baggage, to be landed, and soon afterwards the plague + appeared at Fas, and at Tangier. Thus the contagion which is now + ravaging West Barbary was imported from Egypt. It does not appear + that the mortality is, or has been, during its acme at Fas, any + thing comparable to what it was during the plague that ravaged this + country in 1799,[140] and which carried off more than two-thirds of + the population of the empire. + + [Footnote 140: It has been asserted by a physician who has + lately written, _Observations on contagion, as it relates to + the plague and other epidemical diseases_, reviewed in article + 20th of the _British Review_, and _London Critical Journal_, + published in May last, that I have asserted that the deaths + during the prevalence of that disorder in West Barbary in 1799, + amounted to 124,500; but on a reference to my account of + Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c., 2d or 3d edition, note, page 174, it + will appear, that this mortality was that of two cities, and + two sea-ports only, viz., the cities of Fas and Marocco, and + the ports of Saffy and Mogodor; the mortality, however, was + equally great in the imperial cities of Mequinas and Terodant, + and in the sea-port towns of Tetuan, Tangier, Arzilla, + L'Araich, Salee, Rabat, Dar el Bieda, Azamore, Mazagan, and + Santa Cruz, or Agadeer; and considerably greater among the + populous and numerous encampments of the Arabs, throughout the + various provinces of the empire; not to mention the incredible + mortality in the castles, towns, and other walled habitations + of the Shelluh province of Haha, the first province, travelling + from the shores of the Mediterranean, where the people live in + walled habitations, the seaports excepted.] +188 + Whence proceeds this difference? Is it a different species of + plague, and not so deadly a contagion? Or is it because the remedy + of _olive_ oil, applied and recommended generally by me, and by + some other Europeans during the plague of 1799, is now made public + and generally administered? This is an inquiry well deserving the + attention of scientific men. And His Majesty's ministers might + procure the information from the British consul at Tangier, or from + the governor of Gibraltar: perhaps the truth is, that the contagion + is of a more mild character. + + With regard to the remedy of olive oil applied[141] internally, I + should, myself, be disposed to doubt its efficacy unless M. Colaco, +189 the Portuguese consul at L'Araich, is competent to declare, _from + his own knowledge and experience_, that this remedy has been + administered effectually by him to persons having the plague, who + did not _also use the friction with oil_. I say, till this can be + ascertained, I think the remedy of oil applied _externally_, should + not be forsaken; as _it has been proved during the plague in + Africa, in 1799, to be infallible_, and therefore indispensable to + people whose vocation may lead them to associate with, or to touch + or bury the infected. For the rest, such persons as are not + compelled to associate with the infected, may effectually avoid the + contagion, however violent and deadly it may be, by avoiding + contact. I am so perfectly convinced of this fact, from the + experience and observation I have made during my residence at + Mogodor, whilst the plague raged there in 1799, that I would not + object to go to any country, although it were rotten with the + plague, provided my going would benefit mankind, or serve any + useful purpose; and I would use no fumigation, or any other remedy + but what I actually used at Mogodor in 1799. I am so convinced from + my own repeated and daily experience, that the most deadly plague + is as easy to be avoided BY STRICTLY ADHERING TO THE PRINCIPLE OF + AVOIDING PERSONAL CONTACT AND INHALATION, AND THE CONTACT OF + INFECTIOUS SUBSTANCES, that I would ride or walk through the most +190 populous and deeply-infected city, as I have done before, without + any other precaution than that of a segar in my mouth, when, by + avoiding contact and inhalation, I should most assuredly be free + from the danger of infection!! + + [Footnote 141: Mr. Colaco, having lately observed that oil was + used externally to anoint the body, as a preservative against + the plague; conceived the idea of administering this simple + remedy _internally_ to persons already infected; numerous + experiments were made by this gentleman, who administered from + four to eight oz. olive oil at a dose; and out of 300 + individuals already infected, who resorted to this remedy, only + twelve died.] + + When these precautions are strictly observed, I maintain, (in + opposition to all the theoretical dogmas that have lately been + propagated) that there is no more danger of infection with the + plague, than there is of infection from any common cold or rheum. + +191 + + JOURNEY FROM TANGIER TO RABAT + _THROUGH THE PLAINS OF SEBOO_, + + + + + To accompany Dr. Bell, in Company with the Prince Muley Teib and an + Army of Cavalry. + + _Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. + Bell.--Description of Food sent to us by the Prince.--The Plains of + M'sharrah Rummellah, an incomparable fine and productive + Country.--The Cavalry of the Amorites,--their unique Observations + on Dr. Bell.--their mean Opinion of his Art, because he could not + cure Death.--Passage of the River Seboo on Rafts of inflated + Skins.--Spacious Tent of Goat's Hair erected for the Sheik, and + appropriated to the Use of the Prince.--Description of the + magnificent Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo.--Arabian + Royalty.--Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these + Plains.--Matamores, what they are.--Mode of Reaping.--The Prince + presents the Doctor with a Horse, and approves of his + Medicines.--The Prince and the Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and + the Author pursues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor._ + + I happened to be at Tangier when the (_shereef_) prince Muley Teib + was collecting an army to join that of the emperor, which was on + the banks of the river Morbeya, (see the map of West Barbary, p. + 55,) in Shawiya. Doctor Bell, who had then recently arrived from + Gibraltar, to attend the prince, whose lungs were affected, was to +192 accompany his Royal Highness; and, as I had nothing to detain me in + Tangier, and was going to Rabat, I engaged to accompany the doctor, + and offered to officiate as interpreter between him and the prince + till our arrival at Rabat; after which I should leave him, and + proceed to Mogodor. The Doctor readily assented to my proposition, + because it is considered more respectable in this country, where + the Jews are reprobated and despised, to have for an interpreter a + Christian; the prince also, when he heard that I had thus offered + my services, expressed himself much gratified, and I received a + very polite message from him. The next day we started from Tangier, + in the morning at ten o'clock. The army halted east of Arzilla, in + the plains: the prince sat down under the shade of a tree to + dinner, Dr. Bell and myself under another tree, about 100 yards + distant. The Prince sent us a capon stewed _a-la-mauresque_ with + saffron, the exquisite flavour of which proved that he had an + excellent cook with him. We departed in half an hour; and the tents + were pitched at sunset, in a campaign country, between Arzilla and + L'Araich. The Ait-Amor or Amorites who formed a part of this army, + a wild, uncontrolled race of Berebbers, saw the attention that was + paid by the shereef to the doctor, and after dinner they were + determined to see what sort of a fellow this doctor was, whom the + shereef treated so familiarly. They galloped their high-mettled + horses up to the doctor; and stopping short to examine him, made a +193 reflection on him and returned. The doctor observed the wild and + tattered appearance of these excellent horsemen. There was nothing + evil-minded in them; but their observations were remarkable. The + Doctor wore powder, a custom unknown in this country: one party + would say, "He has got lime in his head to kill the vermin;" + another would observe that "He was old or grey-headed." The Doctor + was fond of his bottle, and some said _skurren bel akkaran_, i.e. + "The[142] son of a cuckold is drunk." Others would bawl out, _Wa + Tebeeb washka't dowie elmoot_, i.e. "O, doctor, canst thou cure + death?" To which he replied, "No."--"Then," returned they, "thou + art no doctor!" On the following morning at sun-rise we proceeded, + and reached L'Araich at twelve o'clock; we did not enter the town, + but dined in the plains, and proceeding afterwards out of the main + road, we directed our course south-east, till we reached a most + beautiful and very extensive plain, called M'sharrah Rummellah. + This plain was covered with numerous and immense flocks of sheep + and horned cattle, and is many times more extensive than Salisbury + plain. We pitched our tents near a very extensive and populous + douar of Arabs. We departed the next morning at sun-rise, and + reached the plains of the river Seboo about two o'clock in the + afternoon; which plains are a continuation of those of M'sharrah +194 Rummellah; the army were engaged the remaining part of the day and + the whole night crossing the river Seboo, on rafts made of inflated + cow-hides, covered with planks and straw. The river is here about + twenty yards wide, but very deep and rapid; the Arabs had a long + and spacious sheik's tent pitched for the reception of the prince, + about forty feet long and fifteen wide, somewhat similar to the + hull of a ship reversed, having the long side open to the sun. + These tents are the palace of the sheik of the Arabs, and are + erected on great occasions only, such as that of the emperor, or a + prince passing through their territory. The plains of M'sharrah + Rummellah are one hundred and fifty British miles in circumference, + perfectly flat, without a stone, a tree, a hedge, or a ditch; with + the majestic river Seboo passing through the centre of the plain. + The soil of this territory, which, in the hands of Europeans, might + be made a terrestrial paradise, is a rich, productive, decomposed + vegetable earth, which extends, as we perceived from various + chasms, to the depth of several feet from the surface. It produces + incredible quantities of the finest wheat, of a hard grain, very + large and long, clear as amber, and yielding a prodigious increase + of flour, so that a saa of wheat[143] produces a saa and a sixth of +195 flour. The prince, Muley Teeb, seated on an eminence in this + spacious tent, resembled what we should imagine the patriarch + Abraham to have been, entertaining his friends; or Saul upon his + throne, with his javelin in his hand. He had twelve lanciers, six + on each side of him in a row, standing with their lances erect, the + Prince having one in his hand. It appears that this is the Arabian + etiquette; and the Arabs appeared much gratified that the prince + had personified their sheik, with all the paraphernalia of royalty. + His Royal Highness whose mind seemed moved with the beauty of this + country, sent for the Doctor and myself, and asked us if we had + ever seen such a country before. We frankly confessed we had not. + The prince smiled, and said, that the (_sehell_) plain we were on, + although extremely populous, and full of douars, could grow + seventeen times as much corn as the inhabitants could consume; that + there was then corn enough in the matamores[144] of this plain, to + supply (_El garb kamel_) the whole of El garb, i.e. the country + north of the river Morbeya.[145] + + [Footnote 142: Intoxication is a damnable vice with these + people; and when they remark drunkenness, they invariably add + an opprobrium to the observation.] + + [Footnote 143: A saa of wheat is little less than two + Winchester bushels. The wheat is very heavy, and this measure + weighs 100 lb., equal to 119 lb. English.] + + [Footnote 144: The matamores are subterraneous depositories for + corn, in which they preserve the wheat sound and good thirty + years; but when a matamore is once opened, it is expedient to + consume the corn immediately, otherwise it contracts what is + called the matamore twang. These depositories are indispensable + in countries exposed to drought, scarcity, or locusts, and + _should be adopted in our colony of South Africa_. The art of + constructing them is very peculiar, and I devoted some time in + learning it.] + + [Footnote 145: See the map of West Barbary.] +196 + We took our leave of the Prince, who appeared much gratified with + the hospitable entertainment of the Arabs, and with their + patriarchal style of living, and sent us an enormous dish of + cuscasoe, coloured with saffron. + + Encamped in the centre of this plain, when the sun had set, and the + twilight came on, we could have imagined ourselves in the midst of + the ocean. Not a cloud was in the sky, nor a hill on the land, to + intercept the uniformity of the horizon; the moon shone so bright, + that we could read by its light, and the universal novelty of the + scene resembled enchantment. + + On this rich land they use no dung: they reap the corn about a foot + from the ground, and burn the stubble. The produce is greater even + than that of the _new-dyke land_, on the banks of the river Ems, in + North Holland. The allotments of land are ascertained by a large + stone, placed at each corner of the square, when the reapers reach + these stones, they desist from proceeding or reaping the corn of + other proprietors. We rose early in the morning, and found the air + of this terrestrial paradise strongly perfumed with millions of + odoriferous flowers, that were growing spontaneously throughout the + plains. Walking with Dr. Bell through the Prince's camp, we saw a + beautiful grey horse. The doctor admired it. I recommended him to + ask the Prince for it, he was not acquainted with the customs of +197 this country, and ridiculed my observation. "If you wish to have + that horse, Doctor," said I, "I will engage that the Prince will + get it for you. I represented immediately to His Royal Highness, + that the Doctor had taken a liking to the horse, and would wish to + buy it. Not buy it," said the Prince; "he will receive it as a + present from me. Tell him, he deserves seven horses for the benefit + he has done me: all doctors that I have heretofore had have taken + twenty-four hours to give me ease; he relieves me in one. Tell him + so," said the prince, "and that he (_massab ala genibuna_) is in + the number of my dearest friends. (_e jeek elkhere attibib u + asselem_), Good be with you, doctor, and peace be with you." Thus + ended the negociation for the horse. I found afterwards that it + belonged to a sheik of the Arab province of Beni Hassen, who + regretted parting with it, but the Prince gave him the value of it, + and much courtesy withal. We struck our tents next morning at + eleven o'clock, and, travelling southward, the Prince received an + express from the Emperor to join his imperial army forthwith: + accordingly the Prince and his doctor departed south-east, and I + took leave of them, and pursued my journey to Rabat. + +198 + + OF + THE EXCAVATED RESIDENCES + OF THE + INHABITANTS OF ATLAS: + THE + _ACEPHALI, HEL SHUAL, AND HEL ELKILLEB:_ + + + + + _The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present System + of solitary Travellers; but by a grand Plan, with a numerous + Company; beginning with Commerce, as the natural Prelude to + Discovery, the Fore-runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, + indispensable to the Conversion of the native Negroes to + Christianity._ + + The inhabitants of the snowy or upper regions of the Atlas live, + during the months of November, December, January, February, and + half of March, in caves or excavations in the mountains; the snow + then disappears, and they begin to cultivate the earth. + + I have repeatedly heard reports of the (_Helel Killeb_,[146]) + dog-faced race; of the (_Hel Shual_,) tailed race; and of the race +199 having one eye,[147] and that in the breast. It is extremely + difficult to ascertain the origin of these reports, which are so + involved in metaphor that the signification is not intelligible to + Europeans; their existence is not doubted, however, in Africa. Of + the _Hel El Killeb_ some ignorant people affirm that the Almighty + transformed one of the tribes of the Jews into these people, and + that these are their descendants; others report them to be a + mongrel breed, between the human and ape species; their strength is + said to be very great. The Africans assert with considerable + confidence, which is corroborated, that the Hel Shual have a tail + half a cubit long; that they inhabit a district in the Desert at an + immense distance south-east of Marocco; that the Hel El Killeb[148] +200 are in a similar direction; that the latter are diminutive, being + about two or three cubits[149] in height; that they exclaim _bak, + bak, bak_, and that they have a few articulate sounds, which they + mutually understand among themselves; that they are extremely swift + of foot, and run as fast as horses. The Arimaspi of Herodotus are + called by the Arabs _Hel Ferdie_, these are represented by the + Arabs of the Desert as living at the foot of the lofty mountains of + the Moon, near Abyssinia: the male and female are equally without + hair on their head, having large chins and nostrils, like the ape + species; they are said to have a language of their own; their + costume is a _jelabea_,[150] and a belt, without shoes or head + dress; their country is said to abound in gold. It is "a + consummation devoutly to be wished," that our knowledge of Africa + should increase so as to enable us to unravel the mystery of these + doubtful reports, to ascertain the degree of credit that is due to + these mysterious traditions. These desiderata, however, can hardly +201 be expected, whilst the present injudicious plans for the discovery + of Africa are persevered in. We must, if we desire to discover + effectually the hidden recesses and reported wonders of this + continent, adopt plans and schemes very different from any that + have hitherto been suggested; we must adopt _a grand system upon an + extensive scale_, a system directed and moved by a person competent + to so great an undertaking. The head or director of such an + expedition should be master of the general travelling and + trafficking language of Africa, the modern Arabic: he should + moreover be acquainted with the character of the people, their + habits, modes of life, religious prejudices, and fanaticism. A + grand plan, thus directed, could hardly fail to secure the command + of the commerce of Africa to Great Britain. Then the discovery of + the inmost recesses would follow the path of commerce, and that + continent, which has baffled the researches of the moderns as well + as of the ancients, would lay open its treasures to modern Europe, + and civilisation would be the natural result. Then would be the + period to attempt the conversion of the Negroes to Christianity; + and the standard of peace and good will towards men might be + successfully planted on the banks of the _Nile El Kabeer_, or _Nile + Assudan_, the Great Nile, or Nile of Sudan, or Nigritia, commonly + called the Niger. + + [Footnote 146: Apollonius Rhodius calls these people [Greek: + emikuges] or half-dogs.] + + [Footnote 147: The ingenious author of Philosophic Researches + concerning the Americans, speaking of a race which appear to + resemble the Acephali of Herodotus, or the race of men having + one eye, and that in their chest, says, "There is in Canibar a + race of savages who have hardly any neck, and whose shoulders + reach up to their ears. This monstrous appearance is + artificial, and to give it to their children they put enormous + weights upon their heads, so as to make the vertebrae of the + neck enter, if we may so say, the channel bone, (clavicule.) + These barbarians, from a distance, seem to have their mouth in + the breast; and might well enough, in ignorant and enthusiastic + travellers, serve to revive the fable of the Acephali, or men + without heads." (See Larcher's Notes on Herodotus's Melpomene, + cap. 191.)--Saint Augustin, whose veracity is scarcely to be + doubted, declared in his thirty-third sermon, intituled _"A ses + Freres dans le Desert"--Avoir vu en Ethiopie des hommes et des + femmes sans tete avec des grands yeux sur le poitrine._] + + [Footnote 148: We have heard of a pig-faced lady; if there is + such a person, there might also be a pig-faced gentleman, and + these might generate a pig-faced race; and if a pig-faced race, + why not a dog-faced race?] + + [Footnote 149: Seven Cubits make four English yards.] + + [Footnote 150: The best description I can give of a _jelabea_ + is this: Take a large sack and cut a hole in the bottom, big + enough to admit the head; then cut the two bottom corners off + to admit the arms: this garment will then resemble the + _jelabea_.] + +202 + + CAUTIONS + TO BE USED IN TRAVELLING. + + + + + _Danger of travelling after Sun-set.--The Emperor holds himself + accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, whilst travelling + between the rising and the setting Sun.--Emigration of + Arabs.--Patriarchal Style of living among the Arabs; Food, + Clothing, domestic Looms, and Manufactures.--Riches of the Arabs + calculated by the Number of Camels they possess.--Arabian Women are + good Figures, and have personal Beauty; delicate in their Food; + poetical Geniuses; Dancing and Amusements; Musical Instruments; + their Manners are courteous_. + + Travellers in West and South Barbary should never be out after + sun-set: it is not safe to travel in many parts of the country + during the night. The emperor holds himself accountable for thefts + committed between the rising and the setting sun; so that, if a + traveller be robbed of property, the value should be ascertained, + and an application being made to the bashaw of the province where + the robbery was committed it will be restored forthwith; but if + there be any demur, an application should be made to the Emperor, + personally, if possible, but if not, by letter; and the district is + immediately ordered to pay double the loss, one half to the person + robbed, and the other half to the Imperial treasury. +203 + These robberies, however, rarely occur; for the bashaws of the + provinces and the alkaids of the douars feel it a duty incumbent on + them to protect all travellers and strangers; so that they would, + in the event of a robbery being committed, expose themselves to a + severe reprimand from the emperor, and an intimation that they + were, by suffering such irregularity, incompetent to their + situation, and would be liable to a heavy fine, or a discharge from + their office, for _neglect of vigilance_, which, in this country, + is considered _very reprehensible_. + + Travelling through the province of Suse, I once witnessed the + emigration of an extensive douar of Arabs, amounting to about 200 + families. They were just leaving their habitation, where they had + been encamped only a few months: it was a fine grazing country; the + camels, horses, mules, asses, oxen and cows, were all laden with + the tents and baggage of these wanderers. On enquiring the cause of + this emigration, I was told that the inhabitants were infested with + musquitoes and fleas to such a degree, that they had all + unanimously resolved to emigrate to another place, which they had + fixed upon, and that they would reach it by night. These wandering + Arabs, without any fixed habitation, are of a restless, + ungovernable spirit: they never cultivate the earth, as do the + Arabs of the plains of Marocco, but live, for the most part, on + camels' milk, occasionally killing a camel or a goat for food; +204 grazing their camels in the adjacent country: they live in the true + Patriarchal style, and seek the means of supplying all their wants + within themselves. To effect this purpose, they barter a few of + their camels for wool, and thus supply themselves with that article + for clothing, which is made in every (_keyma_) Arab tent, by the + women, at their own respective looms; each female being the + manufacturer for her own family. The cloth is wove in pieces of + seven cubits long and about two and a half broad, of the natural + colour of the wool: these pieces of cloth are afterwards converted + into cloaks, mantles, and tunics. Those who choose to indulge in + the luxury of dress, by wearing linen, or turbans, send a few + goat-skins, collected from the goats that have served them + occasionally for food, to Mogodor, or Marocco, or barter them with + some Jews for linen or shoes, and thus supply all their wants; so + that their resources considerably exceed their wants, for some of + them have several thousand camels which cost them nothing. These + animals browse on the bushes in the environs of their habitations, + and are continually increasing and multiplying. They never kill any + animal for food until full grown: this custom, from which the Arab + never departs, is manifestly calculated to increase property, + which, being invested in camels, is transportable, without trouble + or expense, wherever they choose. + + The Arabs are gay and cheerful; the brow of care is rarely seen +205 among them. The more children they have, the greater the blessing. + They turn their hands in early youth to some useful purpose: so + soon as they can walk they attend the camels, or are put to some + domestic occupation; thus forming a useful link in the chain of + their patriarchal society. The independence of these Arabs is + depicted in their physiognomy; they are oppressed by no cankering + care, no anxiety, no anticipation of distress. The food and + clothing of the Arab is always at hand; fuel is not required in + this warm country; and a glass of cool water is all that is desired + to allay the thirst. This simple and abstemious mode of living is + congenial to the human constitution; accordingly they enjoy + uninterrupted health: sickness is so uncommon with them that to be + old and to be sick are synonymous terms. They think one cannot + happen without the other. Some of the women of these people, whilst + young, are extremely delicate, handsome, and have elegant figures. + They account it gross to swallow food, that would, they say, fatten + them like their Moorish neighbours; they therefore masticate it + only. Their physiognomy is very interesting and animated; their + features are regular; large black expressive eyes; a ready wit, + poetic fancy, expressing themselves in poetic effusions, in which, + from constant habit, some of them have become such adepts, that + they with facility speak extempore poetry; those who are unable to +206 converse in this manner are less esteemed. Their evening amusements + consist in dancing and music, vocal and instrumental. Generally, + throughout all the Arab provinces, but particularly in Suse, among + the Mograffra Arabs, the Woled Abbusebah, and Woled Deleim, the + whole country is in a blaze of light of a summer's evening; music, + dancing, and rejoicing, is heard in every direction. Their music + consists of a kettle-drum, a flute or reed, similar to what Homer + describes as the instrument of the ancient shepherds, a rhabeb or + two-stringed fiddle, played with a semicircular bow, a tamboureen, + and brass castanets. They play in precise time; and the ladies + arrange themselves at the entrance of the sheik's tent. It is + pleasant to observe the beauty of their fine-formed feet, uninjured + by tight shoes, and free from corns and all excrescences. They + dance some dances barefooted, making very short steps, scarcely + raising the foot from the ground, in a peculiar manner. They have + elegant and circular ankles; and their light motions fascinate the + eyes of the spectators and the admiring strangers, who occasionally + exclaim, (_Allah ehrduh alikume ia Elarb_) "the protection of God + be upon you, O Arabs!" (_makine fal Elarb_,) "there are none + comparable to the Arabs!" They have a very elegant shawl-dance: in + the management of the shawl they display singular grace, and + practise elegant figures, sometimes concealing their faces, +207 sometimes showing their brilliant eyes through an opening in the + shawl. The manners of these ladies is courteous, but chaste; + perfectly modest, but without reserve; and the other sex pay them + courteous attention. + +208 + + ABUNDANCE OF CORN + PRODUCED IN + WEST BARBARY. + + + + + _Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor.--Bashaw of + Duquella's weekly Present of a Bar of Gold.--Mitferes or + Subterraneous Depositories for Corn_. + + The empire of Marocco, west of the Atlas, during the reign of Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of the present Emperor Soliman, was + one continued corn-field. At that time the exportation was free to + all parts of the world. It is impossible to conceive the abundance + produced in this prolific land, none but those who have actually + seen the standing corn in the ear, and have seen it reaped, can + form any correct idea of its prodigious increase. The plains of + Rahamena, of Shawiya, of Temsena, of Abda, and Duquella, those + immense plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, of Ait-Amor, and many + others, form each, separately, extensive fields of corn, farther + than the eye can reach. To give an idea of the quantity produced in + the plains near Dar El Beida, it will be sufficient to say, that + 250 sail of ships, from 150 to 700 tons, were loaded at that port + in one year of Seedy Muhamed's reign. At the other ports on the +209 shores of the Atlantic, viz. at Arzilla, L'Araich, Meheduma, Rabat, + Azamor, Mazagan, Saffy, and Mogodor, were shipped a quantity, + almost equal in proportion to what was shipped at Dar-El-Beida, so + that the duties at one dollar per fanegue, of 80 lb. weight on the + exportation of wheat, barley, Indian corn, caravances, beans, and + seeds, in one year, according to the imperial registers, amounted + to 5,257,320 Mexico dollars.[151] Besides which, presents to an + incalculable amount were made from time to time by Spain and + Portugal, particularly by the former, to keep the Emperor in good + humour, and to prevent him from prohibiting the exportation of + grain, of which however there was little chance, as his Imperial + Majesty was always diligent in the accumulation of treasure, and + let no opportunity pass of encouraging the agriculture of his + dominions. This system gave general occupation to the Arabs, or + agriculturists, and enriched them so universally, that the + diffusion of wealth among them, produced other incalculable sources + of revenue, insomuch that it was customary for Muhamed Ben Amaran, + Bashaw of Duquella, to present to the Emperor at Marocco, every + Friday, (the Muhamedan sabbath), as he returned home from the + mosque, a massive bar of pure gold of Timbuctoo, valued at some +210 thousand dollars; which was considered as the fee by which he held + his bashawick. The Arabs who are the agriculturists of the + before-mentioned plains, besides the corn exported, lay up immense + quantities in subterraneous caverns, constructed by a curious + process, well deserving the attention of the colonists of South + Africa; these repositories are called mitferes[152], they are + constructed in a conical form, and will contain from 200 to 2000 + quarters of corn.[153] It is expedient, in their construction, to + exclude the atmospheric air; and the soil, in which they are + constructed, should be essentially conservative, the air being + never changed, is constantly of the same temperature, very dry, and + not subject to the variations of humidity, which affect the + external air: this, with other necessary precautions being + observed, they will preserve the corn twenty or thirty years + perfectly sound. In countries, (like that of the Cape of Good + Hope,) subject to drought, inundations, or locusts, these mitferes, + or catacombs are indispensable, as they preserve corn as a reserve + stock, in the event of scarcity, or famine, produced by any of the + before mentioned calamities, or providential visitations. It is +211 more than probable that this singular art of constructing mitferes, + was derived in ancient times from the catacombs of Egypt, and that + Joseph might have preserved Pharaoh's corn[154] upwards of seven + years, in similar magazines. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed, who + possessed considerable talent, and had a perfect knowledge of the + disposition and character of his subjects, used to say in the + (_em'shoer_,) place of audience, before all the people, in the + latter part of his reign:--"You complain of my decrees; but when I + am departed from this world, you shall seek for one day of Seedi + Muhamed's reign, but you shall not find it." This prediction has + been literally verified throughout the respective reigns of his + sons Muley Yezzed, and Muley El Hesham, and even his son the + present Emperor has often manifested an anti-commercial system, and + has accordingly (probably by the advice of the Fakeers belonging to + the divan) prohibited the exportation of most articles of clothing, + and provision, such as wool, Fas manufactures, corn, olive oil, + raisins, &c.[155] + + [Footnote 151: Barley and wheat imported from different ports + of England and from the Continent into London (which is more + than is imported into Great Britain) in 1818, was 6,179,330 + quintals or saas of Barbary, which are equal to 7,415,390 + fanegues $.] + + [Footnote 152: Genesis, xli. 9.--"And Joseph gathered corn as + the sand of the sea very much."] + + [Footnote 153: I descended into a mitfere in the Arab province + of Duquella, and remained there whilst the Arab explained to me + the mode of constructing them; this was near the douar of Woled + Aisah (see the map): it had just been emptied, and produced + 3450 saas or quintals.] + + [Footnote 154: Genesis, xli. 48.] + + [Footnote 155: The result of this anti-commercial system is, + that corn is dearer than it was during the exportation. Many + millions of acres of the finest and most productive land lies + fallow for want of a market for its produce; indeed, the + produce has sometimes been so low for want of a market, that I + have known instances of the corn having been left standing, not + being worth the expense of reaping. Now this prohibition + undoubtedly will appear to many intelligent readers bad policy + in his Imperial Majesty, but it is nevertheless consistent + policy. The _sine qua non_ of the court of Marocco is to keep + the inhabitants poor. It is asserted by the political + economists of this country, that the Arab should not have more + than sufficient to feed and clothe him; every thing beyond this + turns to evil, and is an incentive to rebellion: the superflux, + they maintain, should go to (_Beit el melh d'el muselmen_,) the + Muselman treasury.] + + A wine company, consisting of gentlemen of practical experience in + that branch of business, might form a most beneficial establishment +212 at Santa Cruz, whither the grapes of Edautenan are brought to + market, and other grapes from the Arab countries, of exquisite + quality and flavour, infinitely superior in richness, size, and + flavour to those of Spain and Portugal, or any part of Italy; + indeed, I have no hesitation in declaring, (without fear of + contradiction,) that this country produces the finest grapes, + oranges, and pomegranates in the world, and in the greatest + abundance. I have myself tasted at Marocco, at a Hebrew Rabbi's + table, excellent imitations of burgundy, claret, champagne, + madeira, and rhenish, or old hock, all the produce of grapes reared + in the plains of that city, and in the adjacent mountains. The port + of Santa Cruz, if purchased of the Emperor by the English, would, + besides securing the trade to Sudan, and the interior of Africa, + supply the London market with abundance of all these excellent + wines. +213 + DOMESTIC SERPENTS OF MAROCCO. + + Every house in Marocco has, or ought to have, a domestic serpent: I + say ought to have, because those that have not one, seek to have + this inmate, by treating it hospitably whenever one appears; they + leave out food for it to eat during the night, which gradually + domiciliates this reptile. These serpents are reported to be + extremely sagacious, and very susceptible. The superstition of + these people is extraordinary; for rather than offend these + serpents, they will suffer their women to be exposed during sleep + to their performing the office of an infant. They are considered, + in a house, emblematical of good, or prosperity, as their absence + is ominous of evil. They are not often visible; but I have seen + them passing over the beams of the roof of the apartments. A friend + of mine was just retired to bed at Marocco, when he heard a noise + in the room, like something crawling over his head, he arose, + looked about the room, and discovered one of these reptiles about + four feet long, of a dark colour, he pricked it with his sword, and + killed it, then returned to bed. In the morning he called to him + the master of the house where he was a guest, and telling him he + had attacked the serpent, the Jew was chagrined, and expostulated + with him, for the injury he had done him: apprehensive that evil + would visit him, he intimated to his guest, that he hoped he would + leave his house, as he feared the malignity of the serpent; and he + was not reconciled until my friend discovered to him that he had + actually killed the reptile. + +214 + + MANUFACTURES OF FAS. + + _Superior Manufacture of Gold-thread.--Imitation of precious + Stones.--Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse.--Silver-mine._ + + + + + The manufactures of West Barbary, are of various kinds. They excel, + in the city of Fas, in the manufacture of woollens, cottons, silks, + and gold-thread. The wool and cotton are made into _hayks_, which + are pieces of cloth five feet wide, and about three and a half, or + four yards long, used to throw loosely over the dress, when they go + out into the external air: it resembles the Roman toga, and when + _tastefully adjusted_, gives an elegance to the Moorish costume. + These _hayks_ are manufactured in most of the private families of + Fas; the women employ themselves about them, and sell them to the + merchants. They are sometimes made of cotton mixed with silk, and + also altogether of silk. They make also pieces of silk of various + bright colours, called _bulawan_; the sky-blue, dark-blue, scarlet, + and yellow, are vivid colours, produced by their mode of dying the + silk before it is manufactured. They manufacture their silks from + _Bengal raw silk_, which they call _emfitla_. The _bulawan_ is +215 striped, or chequered, pink, blue, yellow, scarlet, and green: it + resembles what is called, in England, Persian, but it is much + stronger, and more[156] durable, though equally light. The silk + sashes, called _hazam_, are made in large quantities, and are + deserving of imitation in Europe; they are very substantial, but of + the same superior colours with the _bulawan_. They are made + generally half a yard wide, and three yards long: these sell at + Fas, from two to fifty dollars each. The superior kind made for the + ladies of the _horam_[157], or emperor's seraglio, for the ladies + of the bashaws, and for those of the great and opulent, are + intermixed with a beautiful gold-thread, much superior to any that + is manufactured in Europe, insomuch, that the gold-thread imported + from Leghorn and Marseilles is used only in such _hazams_ as are + made for exportation to Sudan, Draha, or Bled-el-Jereed, but those + made for the great and opulent, for home consumption, are + manufactured with the gold thread of the Fas manufacture. Whether + these expert artificers learned the mystery of gold beating, and + gold wire drawing, by which they obtain gold-thread, from the +216 Egyptians, I am not competent to say; but _they_ say they derived + it in ancient times from the Arabs, as well as the art of cutting, + polishing, and setting precious stones. They make a composition in + imitation of amber, which cannot, by the keenest eye, be + distinguished from the natural amber, the latter, however, by[158] + friction attracts cotton, but the manufactured amber does not; this + is the only criterion by which they ascertain the true from the + false amber. They also compose artificial stones with equal + sagacity; the topaz, the emerald, and the ruby they imitate to + perfection. The wool with which they make shawls almost equal in + appearance to those of Kashmere, is procured from the sheep of the + province of Tedla, and is finer than the Spanish Merino. They might + manufacture shawls of goats' hair, equal to those of Kashmere, from + the goats of the eastern declivity of the Atlas, whose hair is like + silk: these goats are called (_el maize Felelley_,) i.e. Tafilelt + goats.[159] There can be no doubt, if our intercourse with Marocco +217 had not been impeded by a general ignorance of the language of that + country, that we might long since have received from the + manufacturers of Fas, shawls of Tafilelt goat-hair, equal to the + finest of the Kashmere manufacture. There is a very extensive + manufactory of red woollen caps at Fas, the contexture of which is + well deserving investigation. There is also a manufactory of gun + locks and barrels; the former appear to have reached the acme of + the art, the latter are not so good as those which they procure + from Europe: so that a Spanish or an English barrel, and a Fas + lock, is considered a complete gun. Such articles of manufacture as + require a complication of machinery and power to produce they + import from Europe, except only when the market is bare, and then + necessity compels them to attempt their construction. The (_hayk + Filelly_,) i.e. Tafilelt hayk, is a fine elegant woollen cloth, + thin as a muslin. The Emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah patronised + this manufacture of his native country, and never wore any other. + The art of manufacturing leather is carried to great perfection at + Mequinas: shoes of the thinnest leather are there made impervious + to water. The manufactures at Marocco and Terodant are similar to + those of Fas, with the exception of that of gold-thread, and the + cutting and polishing of precious stones. The preparation of + leather at Marocco surpasses any thing known in Europe: lion and + tiger skins they prepare white as snow, and soft as silk. There are +218 two plants that grow in the Atlas mountains, the leaves of which + they use in the manufacture of leather; they are called _tizra_, + and _tasaya_. Whether these render the leather impervious, I am not + competent to say; every inquiry that I have made at Marocco + respecting this beautiful manufacture, has been unsatisfactory. I + have always found the manufacturers very guarded, and extremely + jealous; but I have often thought that two or three of our leather + manufacturers, well versed in their art, and withal of penetrating + minds, might contrive to extract the secret from them. In the + mountains of Idaultit, in Lower Suse, they have iron-mines, and + they make gun-barrels and gun-locks equal to what are made at Fas. + The temptations to agriculture, however, are such, that sufficient + only for the consumption of their own _kabyl_ are manufactured; + which is done rather from a principle of self-defense, and from the + _amor patriae_, than with a view to gain. The silver from the mines + of Elala, comes to the Santa Cruz market pure, and in round lumps, + weighing about two ounces each. I have bought it for its weight in + Spanish dollars; but it is generally taken to the Mint for sale. + Ores of gold from the mines of South Barbary, and silver dust from + the bed of the river at Messa, collected personally by me, I sent + to England to be assayed: the person who got them assayed, + reported, that the metal yielded was scarcely sufficient to pay the + charges of assaying; so that the speculation was abandoned. + + [Footnote 156: The spirit of avarice does not sufficiently + prevail to induce the manufacturer to make imperfect articles + for the purpose of sale only. Moreover, they are restrained + from deception by an officer, who inspects the quality of + manufactures, and does not suffer an imperfect article to be + sold.] + + [Footnote 157: This word is called by Europeans _haram_ or + seraglio; but haram thus applied, is a barbarism: it signifies + _vicious_. Horam is the correct pronunciation: it signifies a + place of safety, that admits of no intrusion.] + + [Footnote 158: Thales, the chief of the seven wise men of + Greece, detected the existence of electricity in amber about + 600 years before the Christian era. He was the first who + observed _attraction_ to be the distinguishing property of + amber; and he was so forcibly struck with this singular + discovery, that he was almost led to suppose that it possessed + animation. The term electricity is derived from the Greek word + [Greek: electron], amber. See Remarks on Electricity and + Galvanism, by M. La Beaume, p. 29.] + + [Footnote 159: There was a breed of these goats on the island + of Mogodor, kept there by the emperor's orders. This island is + the state-prison of the empire.] + +219 + + ON THE STATE OF SLAVERY + IN MUHAMEDAN AFRICA. + + + + + The state of slavery in this country is very different from that + which is experienced by the unfortunate men who are transported + from Africa to work under our Christian brethren in the West India + islands. No man, who is sufficiently erudite to read the Koran can + be (_abd_) a slave in a Muhamedan country. It is incumbent on a + good muselman to give such his liberty, that the propagation of the + (_Deen el Wasah_[160]) muselman faith, be not impeded. A man who + has served his master faithfully[161] seven years, sometimes gets + liberated. This liberation, however, is not compulsory; but + conscientious muselmen, of good moral character, often adopt this + enlarging system. I have, however, met with many Moors, who, on + offering liberty to their slaves, the latter have declined it, + preferring to continue in obeisance; a clear proof that their + servitude is not very severe. All slaves, without exception, are + brought to this country from the various territories of Sudan, by + the akkabars, kaffilas, or caravans, that traverse Sahara. They are + all pagans or idolaters (from the interior regions). They are worth +220 from ten to twenty dollars at Timbuctoo; and at Marocco and Fas + they sell for, from seventy to one hundred dollars. They are + received into the Moorish families as domestic servants, and soon + forget their idolatrous superstitions, and become (nominally at + least) Muhamedans. After which, many learn to read the Koran, and + becoming observers of ablution and prostration, often procure their + liberation; for if any one should neglect to liberate such a slave, + his brethren in Muhamed will urge him to it, as a good and + charitable work, becoming a true, muselman.[162] + + [Footnote 160: So called by Muhamedans: _literally_ means the + liberal of _wide doctrine_, alluding to that of the Arabian + Prophet.] + + [Footnote 161: Jeremiah, xxxiv. 14.] + + [Footnote 162: The etymology of _muselman_ is, a man of peace; + from _salem_, peace.] + + The man who wrote the letter from Timbuctoo, giving his master at + Mogodor an account of Mungo Park, having visited Kabria, which + letter I read, and reported its contents on my arrival in England + from Mogodor, about the year 1807, to my Lord Moira (now the + Marquis of Hastings), to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles + Morgan, was a liberated negro of Seed el Abes Buhellel, a Fas + merchant, whose father had an establishment at Timbuctoo. When + Buhellel liberated this negro, he had such confidence in him, that + he advanced to him, on his own personal credit, goods to a + considerable amount, with which he crossed Sahara, and took them to + Timbuctoo for a market. It were to be desired, for the sake of + _humanity_, that our West-India planters would take a lesson on + this subject from the Moors, whose conduct, in this particular, is + worthy of imitation. + +221 + + THE PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS. + + _Their incredible Destruction.--Used as Food.--Remarkable Instance + of their destroying every Green Herb on one Side of a River, and + not on the other._ + + + + + In the autumn of 1792, (Jeraad) locusts began to appear in West + Barbary. The corn was in ear, and therefore safe, as this devouring + insect attacks no hard substance. In (the _liahli_,) the period of + heavy rains comprised between the forty longest nights, _old + style_, they disappeared; so that one or two only were seen + occasionally: but so soon as the _liahli_ had passed, the small + young green locust began to appear, no bigger than a fly. As + vegetation increased, these insects increased in size and quantity. + But the country did not yet seem to suffer from them. About the end + of March, they increased rapidly. I was at (_Larsa Sultan_) the + emperor's garden, which belongs to the Europeans, and which was + given to the merchants of Mogodor by the emperor Seedi Muhamed ben + Abdallah, in the kabyl of Idaugourd, in the province of Haha, and + the garden flourished with every green herb, and the fruit-trees + were all coming forward in the productive beauty of spring. I went + there the following day, and not a green leaf was to be seen: an +222 army of locusts had attacked it during the night, and had devoured + every shrub, every vegetable, and every green leaf; so that the + garden had been converted into an unproductive wilderness. And, + notwithstanding the incredible devastation that was thus produced, + not one locust was to be seen. The gardener reported, that (_sultan + jeraad_) the king of the locusts had taken his departure eastward + early in the morning; the myriads of locusts followed, so that in a + quarter of an hour not one was to be seen. The depredations of + these devouring insects was too soon felt, and a direful scarcity + ensued. The poor would go out a locusting, as they termed it: the + bushes were covered; they took their (_haik_) garment, and threw it + over them, and then collected them in a sack. In half an hour they + would collect a bushel. These they would take home, and boil a + quarter of an hour; they would then put them into a frying-pan, + with pepper, salt, and vinegar, and eat them, without bread or any + other food, making a meal of them. They threw away the head, wings, + and legs, and ate them as we do prawns. They considered them + wholesome food, and preferred them to pigeons. Afterwards, whenever + there was any public entertainment given, locusts was a standing + dish; and it is remarkable that the dish was always emptied, so + generally were they esteemed as palatable food. + + A few years after the locusts appeared, I performed a journey from +223 Mogodor to Tangier. The face of the country appeared like a newly + ploughed field of a brown soil; for it was completely covered with + these insects, insomuch that they had devoured even the bark of the + trees. They rose up about a yard, as the horses went on, and + settled again; in some places they were one upon another, three or + four inches deep on the ground; a few were flying in the air, and + they flew against the face, as if they were blind, to the no small + annoyance of the traveller. It is very remarkable, that on reaching + the banks of the river[163] Elkos, which we crossed, there was not, + on the north side of that river, to my great astonishment, one + locust any where to be seen; but the country was flourishing in all + the luxuriance of verdure, although the river was not wider than + the Thames at Windsor. This extraordinary circumstance was + accounted for by the Arabs, who said that not a locust would cross + the river, till (_sultan jeraad_) the king of the locusts should + precede and direct the way. + + [Footnote 163: See the Map of the empire of Marocco.] + +224 + + ON THE INFLUENCE + OF THE + GREAT PRINCIPLE OF CHRISTIANITY + _ON THE MOORS_. + (Mat. vii. 12.) + + _Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa.--Causes that prevent + it.--The Mode of promoting it is through a friendly and commercial + Intercourse with the Natives.--Exhortation to Great Britain to + attend to the Intercourse with Africa.--Danger of the French + colonizing Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby depreciating + the Value of our West-India Islands._ + + + + + That it is a Christian duty to attempt, by lenient measures, to + propagate the Christian religion among the Idolaters and Muhamedans + of Africa, I think cannot be doubted; but this propagation will not + spread to any considerable extent until, (in that country,) the + morals of Christians in general shall approach nearer than they + actually do to the standard of Christian perfection. It is, + however, most certain that there never was a more promising, or a + more favourable opportunity of subverting paganism in Africa, and + establishing Christianity on its ruins, than at this present + period; and I think the best method to effect this desirable + purpose is through the medium of commerce, which must, in that + continent, necessarily precede science and civilisation. It is well +225 known, by all men of penetration who have resided in Muhamedan + countries, that the principles of the religion of Muhamed are not + so repugnant to Christianity as many, nay, most persons have + imagined. Various causes, however, tend to increase the hostility + that exists between the two religions. First, it is augmented by + the fakeers, and by political men, who are ever active in bringing + to their aid superstition and enthusiasm, to increase the + hostility. Secondly, it is augmented by the very little intercourse + which they have with Christians, originating, for the most part, in + our ignorance of the Arabic language, an ignorance which has been + lamented by the emperor[164] Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah himself. + Thirdly, the hostility of these two religions is augmented by a + very ancient tradition, that the country will be invaded by the + Christians, and converted to Christianity, that this event will + happen on a Friday (the Muhamedan sabbath), during the time that + they are at the (_silla dohor_) prayers at half past one o'clock, +226 P.M.; so that throughout the empire they close the gates of all the + towns on this day, at this period of time, till two o'clock, P.M.: + when the prayers are over, and the people go out of the mosques, + the gates are again thrown open. This tradition, which is + universally believed, acts on the minds of the whole community, and + fans the embers of hostility already lighted between Christians and + Muhamedans, bringing to the recollection of the latter the hostile + intentions of the former to invade and take their country from + them, when an opportunity shall offer. On the other hand, what + tends to reconcile the two creeds is, the influence that European + commerce, and the principles of the Christian doctrine, have had on + the muselmen of Africa. This influence extends as far as the + commerce with Europeans extends. Wherever the Europeans negociate + with the Moors, the great principle of the Christian doctrine is + known and discussed,--that principle which surpasses every doctrine + propagated by the Grecian philosophers, or the wise men of the + East,--that truly noble, liberal, and charitable principle, "Do as + you would be done by," influences the conduct of the better + educated muselmen who have had long intercourse and negociations + with Christians; and they do not fail to retort it upon us, + whenever _our conduct_ deviates from it. Thus, the minds of + muselmen, wherever European commerce flows, are tinctured with this + great principle of the Christian doctrine. And, to an accurate +227 observer of mankind, it will appear that this principle, from its + own intrinsic beauty, has in many superseded the muselman + retaliative system of morality, originating in the Mosaic law,--"An + eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth." For I have heard + muselmen, in their individual disputes with one another, advance + this precept as a rule of conduct. If, therefore, this divine + principle be recognised by muselmen, who have had intercourse and + commercial negociations with Europeans, in defiance of the + obstacles to this doctrine suggested by the fakeers and political + men; what might we not expect from the due cultivation of an + extensive commerce, upon a grand national scale, with this + interesting continent? Might we not expect a gradual diffusion of + the principles of Christianity among the muselmen, as well as among + the pagans and idolaters, of Africa? I would venture to assert, + that in the event of the British government engaging, with energy + and determination, to cultivate a commercial intercourse and + extensive connection with Africa, that the negroes, and possibly + even the Muhamedans, might gradually be converted to Christianity. + This event would take a long time to accomplish, but its gradual + progress, most probably, would be more rapid than was the progress + of Muhamedanism during the life of the Arabian prophet. + + [Footnote 164: When this Emperor, for the purpose of satisfying + his people that he administered retributive justice, ordered + two teeth of an English merchant to be drawn, he repented so + much of what he had done, that he offered to make any amends + that the merchant might require, expressing his wish that he + had an English consul with whom he could converse colloquially, + without the inconvenience of an interpreter; and for this + purpose the Emperor, after granting him considerable favours, + urged him to accept of the British consulship; adding, that he + himself would secure him the appointment, and that he would + then refuse nothing, but whatsoever the English should ask of + him, they should have.] + + Associations have been formed in this philanthropic country, + through the medium of extensive subscriptions, for the civilisation +228 of Africa, and the abolition of the slave trade: the greatest merit + is due to the individuals who have subscribed to such institutions; + their motives have been unexceptionable, but we grossly deceive + ourselves, and the whole is an illusion! The French, as it were, + have taken the staff out of our hands; and whilst we are in vain + endeavouring to abolish the trade in slaves, _by the capture of + slave-ships at sea_[165], they are insidiously cultivating the + growth of cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, and other colonial + produce, on the banks of the Senegal river; insomuch that if we + shall continue thus supinely to disregard their important African + agricultural operations, the result in a few years will probably + be, that they will be able to undersell us in West-India produce, + in the markets of continental Europe; for they can cultivate, with + free negroes at Senegal, colonial produce at considerably less + expense than our West-India cultivation. The voyage, also, is not + half the distance; so that the continental market for the sale of + West-India produce will be shortly supplied from Senegal, from +229 whence it is more than probable that colonial produce will be + imported to Europe at little more than half the expense of + importing it from the West Indies: thus Great Britain may be driven + out of the market for colonial produce, except for what may be + sufficient for her own domestic supply. + + [Footnote 165: Many naval officers concur in thinking, that to + suppress the slave trade, by interrupting the ships, would + employ all the navy of Great Britain; and entail a war-expense + on the nation; besides the enormous expense that will be + necessarily incurred by the various commissions dispatched to + Sierra Leone, Havannah, &c. &c. for the adjudication of + slave-causes. To which may be added, our expensive presents to + Spain and Portugal, to induce those powers to coalesce in the + abolition; which there is too much reason to apprehend will be + evaded by the subjects of those powers.] + + This has been a favourite scheme of the French, who have now begun + to taste the fruits of it: they have had it in view and in + operation _ever since we gave them possession of Senegal_. It was + the system of her late Emperor, Bonaparte, suggested to him by the + arch and brilliant genius of Talleyrand, to indemnify the loss of + St. Domingo. + + Moreover, the French, who are cultivating the territory of Senegal + with indefatigable industry, will be, in a few years, not only able + to supply the continental markets of Europe with colonial produce, + but they will become masters of North Africa, establish another + Ceuta at the African promontory of the Cape de Verd, and, in the + event of a war, annoy incalculably our East-India trade, and + enhance the price of East-India produce in the British dominions; + whilst they will, by the aid of the Americans, who will be always + ready to assist them, form a depot for East-India goods at the Cape + de Verd, and from thence introduce them into Africa and France, to + the almost total exclusion of Great Britain. If we are to prevent + these events from taking place, we must adopt different measures +230 from what we have adopted; we must move in a very different sphere + from that in which we have been accustomed to move; we must be much + more energetic, more vigilant, and more active than we have been, + with respect to African matters. It is presumed that these + suggestions are well deserving the consideration of His Majesty's + ministers. May they view with the eye of an eagle and the wisdom of + the serpent the insidious encroachments that are thus making on our + colonial markets!! + + The Africans, by which term I mean the natives, viz. the Moors, the + Arabs, the Berebbers, the Shelluhs, and the Negroes, (not the Jews, + who, although numerous in this country, yet, as they are and have + been ever since their Theocratical Government, a distinct race, and + their customs and manners well known, I do not include them in the + term Africans, although from their birth they are entitled to the + appellation,)--the Africans, I say, are seldom met with in closed + rooms, but are constantly in the open air, transacting their + business in _dwarias_, which are detached rooms, or apartments, + with three sides, the fourth being supported by pillars; this + custom of living continually in or exposed to the external air + renders them strong and healthy, wherefore their bodies, by an + _antiperistasis_, have the natural heat repelled and kept within, + increasing by this action their appetite for food, which is always + strong. They live in a frugal manner, seldom eating but of one +231 food: the prevailing dish throughout North Africa is cuscasoe, a + granulated paste, cooked by steam, and garnished with vegetables, + and chickens, or mutton; this is a very nutritive, palatable, and + wholesome dish. They are not incumbered at their meals with a + variety of dishes; but a large bowl, or spacious plate, is + introduced on a round table, supported by one pillar, like the + _Monopodia_ of the ancients, rather larger than the bowl or dish, + and about six inches high. Half a dozen Moors sit round this + repast, on cushions or on the ground, cross-legged; a position + which they remain in with perfect ease and pliability from custom + and the loose dress they wear. When the company have seated + themselves, a slave or a servant comes round to the guests, to + perform the ceremony of (_togreda_) washing of the hands; a brass + bason or pan, which they call _tas_, is brought round to all the + company, the slave holding it by his left hand, while, with the + right hand, he pours water on the hands of the guests from a + (_garoff_) pitcher, in the form of an Etruscan vase, having + (_zeef_) a towel thrown over his shoulder to dry their hands. This + ceremony is performed before and after meals. The master of the + feast, before they begin to eat, pronounces (_Bismillah_) the grace + before meat, which signifies, "In the name of God;" after the + repast, he says (_El Ham'd u lillah_) "Praise be to God." Each + guest eats with the fingers of his right hand, none ever touching + the food with their left. If a piece of meat, or a joint of a fowl +232 or chicken is to be divided, two of the guests take hold of it, and + pull it till it is divided. This is somewhat repugnant to an + European's ideas of delicacy; but if we consider that the hands are + previously washed, and that they never come in contact with the + mouth in decent or respectable society, there is not so insuperable + an objection to this way of eating as might otherwise appear. Each + person in eating the granulated flour or cuscasoe, puts his two + fore-fingers into the dish before him, and by a dextrous turn of + the hand converts the quantity taken up into the form of a ball, + which he, with a peculiar dexterity, jirks into the mouth. The + Africans never drink till they have done eating; when dinner is + over, a large goblet, or _poculum amicitiae_, of pure water is + passed round, and each person drinks copiously; the washing is then + repeated, and the repast is terminated. Afterwards coffee is + introduced, without milk: the cup is not placed in a saucer, nor do + they hand you a spoon, for the sugar is mixed in the coffee-pot; + the cup is presented in an outer cup of brass, which preserves the + fingers from being burned. They use no bells in their tents; but + the slaves or servants are called by the master when wanted, one + generally standing in the corner of the tent to superintend the + others. The pipe is sometimes introduced after the coffee, but this + is by no means a general custom, except among the negroes. The pipe + is of rose-wood, of jasmin, or of rhododendrum wood: great +233 quantities of the latter are conveyed across the Sahara, for + pipe-tubes for the negroes of Timbuctoo, and other territories of + Sudan, bordering on the Nile el Abeed, or Nile of the Negroes + (Niger). + + Passing through this territory of encampments, when travellers are + disposed to sleep at a douar, one of the party presents himself at + the confines of the encampment, and exclaims (_Deef Allah_) "The + guest of God." The sheik of the douar is immediately apprised of + the circumstance; and after investigating the rank of the + travellers, he enquires if they have tents with them; if they have + not, he has his own or (_kheyma deaf_) the guest's tent + appropriated for the travellers. If they have their own tents, + which persons of respectability generally have, the sheik comes and + directs the servants where to pitch them; the camels and mules are + disburdened, and the sheik declares (_atshie m'hassub alia_) "For + all this baggage I hold myself accountable." Europeans travelling + in this country generally follow their own customs: accordingly, + among the English, tea is ordered; a most delectable refreshment + after a fatiguing journey on horseback, exposed to the scorching + rays of the African sun. If the sheik and a few of his friends are + invited to tea, which these Arabs designate by (_elma skoon u el + hadra_) hot water and conversation, they like it very sweet, and + drink half-a-dozen cups at least. Nothing ingratiates travellers + with these people so much as distributing a few lumps of sugar +234 among them: sugar, honey, or any thing sweet, being with these + Arabs emblematical of peace and friendship. Some of the women of + the Arabs are extremely handsome; in all the simplicity of nature + "when unadorned adorned the most." To fine figures they unite + handsome profiles, good and white teeth, and large, black, + expressive, intelligent eyes, like the eyes of a gazel; dark + eye-brows, and dark long eye-lashes, which give a peculiar warmth + and softness to the eye. They concern themselves little about time, + and will sometimes come to converse after midnight with the + Europeans. When the guard of the tent informs them they cannot go + in, that the Christian is a-bed and undressed, they are not less + astonished than we are to see them sleeping in the open air at + night, on the ground, with their clothes on. When candles are + brought into the tent at night, the servant wishes the company a + good evening: he says "_M'sah elkhere_," the literal meaning of + which is "_Good be with you this evening_;" which salutation it is + courteous to return, even to a slave; and if any one, however great + his rank, were not to return it, he would be considered a bad + muselman, a disaffected and inhospitable barbarian. The morning + salutation is (_Alem Allah sebak_,) "May your morning be + accompanied with the knowledge of God;" or, (_Sebah el khere_, or + _sebahk b'elkhere_) "Good morning to you," or "May your morning be + good." Equals meeting, touch hands, and then each kisses his own +235 respectively; they then say, (I now speak of the middle order of + society,) "And how are you, and how have you been: how long it is + since I saw you! and how are you, and how are your children; (_uhel + Dar'kume_,) and the people of your family, how are they, certainly + you are well:" and so they will go on, sometimes for a quarter of + an hour, repeating the same thing. If an inferior meets a superior, + he kisses his hand or his garment and retires, when there is a + greater disparity of rank, the inferior kisses the stirrup of the + superior; or prostrates himself if the superior is a prince, a + fakeer, or a bashaw. + + Another salutation among respectable individuals is, by each + placing his right hand on his heart, indicating that part to be the + residence of the friend! + + The Jews of this country retain the customs of their ancestors more + pure and unmixed than those in other countries. + + When a Jew dies he is interred the same day, or the day after at + farthest. The female relations and the friends of the deceased + assemble round the corpse, and utter bitter lamentations, tearing + their faces and their hair in a most woeful manner; they disfigure + their faces with their finger-nails, till they bleed, and during + the whole time keep stamping or moving their legs, beating time, as + it were, with their feet; these lamentations are continued, with + occasional intermission, till the body of the deceased is carried +236 away for interment. The performers of these bitter lamentations + appear to have all the marks of hideous grief inscribed on their + faces, but most of them feel no real concern; some of the girls, + young and handsome, near akin to the deceased, are ambitious to + disfigure themselves, and they lacerate their pretty faces most + lamentably. The more wounds these bear on their cheeks the greater + is their grief considered to be. But the corpse being removed the + mourners regale themselves with _Mahaya_, or African brandy, and + make up for their lamentations, by converting their bitter strains + into conviviality. + + There is a strange resemblance between this custom and that + practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand; insomuch that we might + imagine the latter to be one of the lost tribes of this + extraordinary people. It is true that we have no record of such a + perfection of navigation as to enable us to conjecture how a tribe + of Jews could reach New Zealand: but many things remain in great + obscurity even in this enlightened age; and we have had no + historical record transmitted to us from the ancients of many + extraordinary discoveries that recently have been made in Egypt. + +237 + + INTEREST OF MONEY. + + _Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital._ + + + + + In this country the law allows no interest of money; the + consequence is, that the country is overwhelmed with usurers, who + exact, generally, an oath of secrecy, and lend money on pledges of + valuable and convertible merchandise: the interest paid on these + negociations is most exorbitant; I have known five, six, eight, + ten, and even twelve per cent, per month paid for the use of money! + There is no paper money in this country; but a bank might be + established at Mogodor, for the convenience of internal trade: the + _sine qua non_ of the bank should be, AN ADEQUATE CAPITAL. The + advantages that would necessarily result from an establishment of + this kind are incalculable; the paper of a bank, _thus + established_, would be current in a short time, UNDER JUDICIOUS AND + INTELLIGENT MANAGEMENT, in all the territories of Sudan, through + the heart of Africa, through Bambara, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Cashna, + Wangara, Bernoh, Fas, and Marocco, and various other countries. The +238 immense advantages of the carriage of paper through the Desert and + through Sudan, _convertible_ into cash at every commercial city, + port, or district in a country like this, would greatly facilitate + the operations of commerce; this must be evident to every political + economist acquainted with the nature of commercial negociations in + Africa. + + The superflux of coin, consisting principally of Mexico dollars, + and doubloons, (over and above the quantum necessary for the + circulating medium of commercial negociations,) is either buried + under ground by the owner, or converted into jewels for the ladies + of his family; there is a general propensity to these subterraneous + hordes; the bulk of the people, the lower classes in particular, + have an idea that they will enjoy in the next world what they save + in this; which opinion is not extraordinary, when we consider how + many cases there are, wherein we see the sublimest capacity + prostrate at the shrine of an _early imbibed_ superstition. Many of + these erring philosophers, therefore, attentive to the accumulation + of riches, retire from this sublunary world with an immense + immolated treasure, wherewith to begin, as they imagine, their + career in the world to come! + + "We," they say, "convert our superflux to jewels and costly apparel + for our females, and we have the gratification of seeing them well + apparelled and agreeably ornamented. Moreover, a great part of our + possessions is appropriated to the sacred rites of hospitality, +239 which you Christians know not how to practise; for you worship the + idol of ostentation; you invite your friends to dinner; you incur + an intolerable and injudicious expense, and provide a multiplicity + of dishes to pamper their appetites, sufficient for a regiment of + muselmen; when nature and national beings, which men were born to + be, require only one dish. Moreover, your sumptuous entertainments + are given to those only who do not want; therefore is it an + ostentatious and a wanton waste! We, on the contrary, that is to + say, every good Muselman, gives one-tenth of his property to the + poor; and moreover much of his substance is appropriated to the + support, not of the rich and independent, who do not want it, but + to (_deefan_) strange guests who journey from one country to + another; insomuch that, with us, a poor man may travel by public + beneficence and apt hospitality from the shores of the + Mediterranean to the borders of Sahara, without a fluce[166] in + (_hashituh_) the corner of his garment.[167] A traveller, however + poor he may be, is never at a loss for a meal, several meals, and + even for three days entertainment, wherever he travels through our + country; and if any man were to go to a douar in any of the Arab +240 provinces of our Sovereign's empire, and not receive the + entertainment and courtesy of a brother, that douar would be + stamped with a stigma of indelible disgrace! Pardon us, therefore, + if we say, you have not such hospitality in your country, although + the great principle of (_Seedna Aisa_) our Lord Jesus, is + charity." [168] I should, however, observe that this hospitality is + shown almost exclusively to Muhamedans. + + [Footnote 166: A fluce is a copper coin, one hundred of which + are equal to sixpence English.] + + [Footnote 167: In the corner of his garment:--The Africans have + no pockets; they carry their money in the corner of their + garment, and tie it with a knot to secure it.] + + [Footnote 168: The Muhamedans acknowledge Jesus Christ to have + been a Prophet that worked miracles; the indelible proof of his + mission.] + + Respecting women and horses, speaking of the treatment of them in + England, they remark, that "England is a paradise for women, who + are there exalted beyond the fitness of things; and it is + (_gehennum_) a hell for horses, for those poor ill-treated animals + in the hackney coaches and carts, need only to be seen to be + pitied; the hard blows which they receive from their cruel masters + are calculated to impress our minds with an opinion that we are in + a land of barbarians, whereas you call yourselves a civilised + people: You say you are such; your actions deny the fact, and we + judge by actions, not by words or self-commendations. When, + therefore, you pride yourselves on your superiority and + civilisation the whole is a delusion; and when we hear you set + forth these absurd pretensions, we are compelled to commiserate our + common race, and to exclaim, Alas, poor human nature!" This is the +241 verbatim reply that a very intelligent but irritated Muselman made + to my animadversions on the absurdity of burying treasure. This + gentleman's father had been ambassador from the Emperor of Marocco + to Great Britain, and to France; and had seen much of French, + Spanish, and English manners, among the higher orders of society in + those countries. + + Too much cannot be said in commendation of this generous, + open-hearted philanthropy of the Arabs, here described: but the + intelligent reader will understand, that it applies particularly to + the Arabs, or cultivators of the plains, in the empire of Marocco; + and, in its large and unlimited extent, to the Bedouin or roving + Arabs of the Sahara, and of Lower Suse, from whose (_kabyles_) + clans, the Arabs cultivators are early emigrations; almost all of + them having their original stock in the Sahara. It is also + confined, almost exclusively, to Muhamedans, and does not, like the + divine doctrine of Jesus Christ, with universal benevolence embrace + all mankind, without distinction of party, sect, or nation;--a + doctrine which has lately been put in considerable practice in our + own country, by institutions supported by voluntary subscriptions + for the destitute, for foreigners in distress, and for negroes; by + institutions in aid and support of all needy persons labouring + under sickness, or having need of surgical aid; by institutions for + the encouragement of industry, for the refutation of vice and +242 immorality; by institutions that reflect immortal honour on this + country, and cast a lustre on the respective individuals who have + contributed to all these heart-approving institutions, which are + calculated to afford relief to almost every description of + suffering humanity!! + + Itinerant (_tebeebs_) doctors travel through the country to + administer to the sick; which, however, are seldom found. They + carry over their shoulders a leathern bag, containing their + surgical apparatus, which consists of a lancet, a scarifying knife, + and a caustic knife, or knife for burning: they scarify the neck, + the forehead, or the wrists. The caustic knife is an instrument of + very general application. They convert all gun-shot and other + wounds, as well as sores, into burns, by heating the knife in the + fire, and gently touching the circumference of the wound with it. + This produces acute pain; but the Africans bear pain heroically: + they say that this method prevents inflammation and festering. They + perform, by caustic, extraordinary cures. I imagine this method + would not agree with an European body, pampered with a variety of + high food and luxurious living. + + The inhabitants of this country break their fast with (_el hassua_) + barley-gruel; they grind the barley to the size of sparrow-shot, + this they mix with water, and simmer over a slow fire two or three + hours. This food is esteemed extremely wholesome, and is +243 antifebrile. The Emperor takes this before he drinks tea in a + morning: his father, Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, also, who drank + none but fine hyson tea, never would drink that beverage till he + had first laid a foundation of _el hassua_. + + The Arabs and Shelluhs, with whom _el hassua_ is generally used, + urge its salubrity, by reporting that a physician alighted in a + strange country, and when he arose in the morning, after performing + his matins, he seated himself with some of the inhabitants, and, + conversing, asked them how they lived, and with what food they + broke their fast? "With _el hassua_," was the reply: "Then," + rejoined Esculapius, (_Salam u alikume_,) "Peace be with you; for + if you eat _el hassua_ in the morning you have no need of a + doctor:" and he immediately departed. + + When I established the port of Santa Cruz, and opened it to + European commerce, the gratitude and hospitality of the Arabs and + Shelluhs of the province of Suse, was demonstrated in every way: so + rejoiced were they to see their port, after an inactivity of thirty + years, again re-established. If I rode out to visit any part of the + country, the women, on my approach to a douar, would come out to a + great distance with bowls of milk on their heads; others with bowls + of honey, with thin scrapings of butter in them, and bread or +244 cakes[169], similar to pancakes, baked in five minutes, on stones + heated with the embers of charcoal. These greetings I received by + tasting every bowl of milk, and dipping a bit of bread in the honey + and eating it. The milk thus presented is emblematical of peace and + amity; the honey of welcome: to refuse eating or tasting what is + thus presented, is considered, among this patriarchal people, a + great breach of good manners, an inexcusable want of courtesy, + which they say none but a _kaffer_[170] would commit. They would + then say, _Birk eeaudee, birk attajar u straha_, "Alight, I pray + thee, alight, merchant! and rest yourself." + + [Footnote 169: See a similar custom in Genesis, xxiii. 5--8.] + + [Footnote 170: Kaffer is the Arabic term for Infidel. All the + idolatrous Negro nations are, by Muhamedans, denominated + Kaffer, (or Caffres). Sing. Kaffer--plural Kaffer.] + + In these halcyon days, these grateful people never knew when to + cease offering presents. They sat on the ground in the refulgent + meridian sun, and when I dismounted to walk to the shade of a tree, + to partake of their hospitality, they would exhort me to shun the + shade, (_lie e drab'k elbird_) for fear it should give me cold. +245 These Bedouin[171] Arabs of Suse and Sahara are the descendants of + the ancient Arabs, whose bold and figurative language is the same + that was spoken in Arabia twelve centuries ago, in the time of + Muhamed. + + [Footnote 171: The Arabs of the vast plains of the empire of + Marocco, who live in douars, or encampments, are emigrations + from the original stock or clan in Sahara; who are the pure or + Bedouin Arabs. Being established in the beautiful and + productive plains of West and South Barbary, they soon forget + their Bedouin customs, change their wandering, plundering + habits, and become cultivators, and stationary; for the immense + produce of their labour in these plains, which require no dung, + nor any preparation but the plough, soon rewards their + industry, so as to determine them to continue this new mode of + life.] + + Passing early one morning by a douar, in the territory of + Howara,[172] I was invited to join a party to hunt the wild boar. + The plains of Howara, between the city of Terodant and Santa Cruz, + abound with boars: we started, in a few hours, seven of these + animals, two of which were taken and killed. The dogs best + calculated for this sport are what they call _sereet telt_, or the + third race of greyhounds, which is a very strong dog. One of these, + I observed, attacked the boars by the nape of the neck, and never + left his hold till the other dogs came up to the attack: although + the boar would toss him about in all directions, he never left his + hold. The Arabs of Suse are very dextrous and active at this sport: + they hunt with javelins; some have guns, which they fire when + opportunity offers, but they never expend their powder and shot + (_batal_) vainly, as they express it, but always make sure of their +246 mark. I could not but admire this celebrated (_slogie_) greyhound; + which the Arab to whom it belonged observing, insisted on my taking + it home to Santa Cruz, adding, that whenever I wished to hunt, to + let him know, and he would accompany me. I offered him a present of + money for the dog, which is what I never had refused before in the + provinces north of Suse; but he declined the offer, saying he was + more than recompensed already by the establishment of the port of + Santa Cruz. "Myself, my family, my kabyl," said he, "hail you as a + father; (_e moot alik_) they will die in your cause." No favour + could have equalled that of re-establishing the commerce of + Agadeer. These circumstances serve to show what reception might be + expected from these people, if the British Government would + negociate with the Emperor for the purchase of the port of Agadeer, + or Santa Cruz, preparatory to the establishment of a commerce with + Timbuctoo, and other regions of Sudan. + + [Footnote 172: In the 815th year of the Hejira, an emigration + from the Howara Arabs attacked, took possession of, and + destroyed the city of Assouan, in Egypt.] + +247 + + PLAN + FOR THE + GRADUAL CIVILISATION OF AFRICA. + + _On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the + Sahara and Ashantee._ + + + + + To cultivate an extensive commercial intercourse with Africa, I + have already observed, that the best method, the simplest, and that + which is, from contingent circumstances, the most likely to + succeed, is the plan which I have pointed out in the following + prospectus. I shall now offer several reasons why this plan is + superior to any other hitherto suggested. + + The riches of the Arabs of Sahara generally, as well as of that + part which I have contemplated as a convenient spot for + establishing a colony, and for opening a communication with Sudan, + consists exclusively in camels. The independence of a man is there + ascertained by the number of camels he possesses; it is not said, + how many thousand dollars has he? or, what quantity of gold does he + possess? or, what land has he? but, how many camels does he own? + The master of these, aptly denominated, ships of the Desert, is +248 urged by interest to let on hire his camels, as the master of a + ship of the ocean is urged by interest to seek freight for his + ship. And it is observed, that the ferocious appearance among the + Arabs, (which is too often assumed,) subsides in proportion to the + intercourse they have with merchants, who negociate with them for + the transport of their goods. Thus, at the _depots_ for camels + between the cultivated country and the Desert, viz. at _Akka, + Tatta, Ufran,_ and _Wedinoon_, the ferocity of the Arabs is greatly + lost in the commercial spirit and endeavour to let their camels on + hire to the merchants. The Mograffra, the Woled Abbusebah, and the + Tejakant Arabs, therefore, who possess the Sahara, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the confines of Timbuctoo, would act in concert + with the colony, and would have a joint interest in promoting their + commercial views. The Brabeesh Arabs who receive, occasionally, + tribute from Timbuctoo, would also find it expedient to promote the + commerce of Sudan, and the prosperity of Timbuctoo; both which + would necessarily be united to their own interest, and would + provide a demand for their camels. + + If the profits of this commerce, when once established and secured + to the British, were to be cent. per cent., the whole would remain + a bonus to the colony. There would be no shereef of Fezzan, or + bashaw of Tripoli, to take their share of the profits, in any + shape, in exchange for the privilege of being suffered to pass +249 through their country. But, on the contrary, the Arabs of the + Mograffra and other tribes would find it so evidently their + interest and advantage to be friendly with us, that we might + absolutely have the entire command of the Desert, from the shores + of the Atlantic to the city of Timbuctoo, which would eventually + throw such a weight of power into our hands, as to make even that + city itself, in a manner, tributary to us. + + A plan of this kind should be executed _upon a grand national + scale_, and be pursued with discretion and perseverance. + + An attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo, through Ashantee, and + establish a commerce through that country, might meet with + temporary success; but I apprehend that we should labour under the + same inconveniences, and be subject to the same arbitrary imposts + and exactions, whether in the shape of duties, part of the profits, + or otherwise, as we should, by opening a communication through + Tripoli. There would be a present or douceur to the king of + Ashantee; others to the princes of the adjoining territories; and, + finally, (taking the character of this king to be as represented by + the late traveller in that country, Mr. Bowdich), might we not + reasonably anticipate that, on the first dispute respecting the + division of the profits, the king of Ashantee would order all the + English out of his country, and, to terminate the dispute, plunder + them of their property? But, perhaps the establishment of a colony + in Ashantee, _conjoined_ to one in Sahara, might not be +250 objectionable. We should then have two routs to the grand emporium + of central Africa: if one failed, the other would remain open for + our countrymen to recover their property and to return by; and + thus, in establishing a commercial intercourse with the interior of + Africa, through two routes, we should secure, at the same time, our + retreat, by one of them, and not remain at the mercy of the + barbarous king of Ashantee, or any other African potentate, who + might be urged, from jealousy or avarice, to sacrifice our people, + when once he had them in his power! + +251 + + PROSPECTUS OF A PLAN + FOR FORMING A + NORTH AFRICAN OR SUDAN COMPANY, + + To be instituted for the purpose of establishing an extensive + Commerce with, and laying open to British Enterprise, all the + Interior Regions of North Africa. + + + * * * * * + + OBJECTS OF THE SOCIETY. + + 1_st_. To lay open the interior regions of North Africa to British + enterprise--to supply those vast and unexplored countries with + British manufactures, with East-India goods, and with colonial + produce. + + 2_dly_, To encourage our manufactories, by opening a new market + calculated to improve the revenue of the country, to provide + employment for the labouring poor, and to enrich the mercantile + community; _the genial influence of which sources of prosperity + will necessarily diffuse itself through all classes_. + + 3_dly_, To facilitate, through the medium of commerce (_the only + medium by which it can possibly be effected_), the exploration of + the interior regions of Africa, (_which have remained to this day a + sealed book, notwithstanding the many adventurous expeditions that +252 have been undertaken_,) by opening a communication with the natives + of that vast and little-known continent, and BY CALLING TO OUR AID + THE CO-OPERATION OF THE NATIVE CHIEFS, BY HOLDING OUT TO THEM THE + BENEFITS WHICH THEY WILL DERIVE FROM COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE AS A + REWARD FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE AND EXERTIONS IN PROMOTING THIS + DESIRABLE OBJECT. + + For these purposes it is proposed-- + + That the funds to be raised be one hundred thousand pounds, in + shares of one hundred pounds each. Ten shares to constitute a + director. + + The spot proposed to be fixed on as the point of communication, and + commercial depot, between Great Britain and the interior of Africa + is SAFE AND HEALTHY: it will afford a _direct communication with + Timbuctoo and the interior regions of Sudan_, without being subject + to the uncertainty of securing the favour and protection of the + various sultans and sheiks of the respective territories of the + interior, through which the merchants and traders may pass--a + measure which would have been indispensable in every plan that has + hitherto been suggested for the discovery of those interesting + regions. + + The plan now to be adopted, on the contrary, will be subject to + none of those impediments and uncertainties; but the merchants and + travellers will pass through territories where they need fear no + hostility, but will be received with hospitality and attention by + the natives, who will give them every assistance and accommodation +253 in their progress through their country. + + Connected with this plan, a school for instructing the British + youth in African Arabic, so as to initiate them in the rudiments of + that language previously to their departure for Africa, might be + established, under the direction of JAMES GREY JACKSON, professor + of African Arabic, &c. + + The present scheme has been many years in contemplation, but no + favourable opportunity of making it thus public having hitherto + occurred, it is now offered to the public, in consequence of the + energies lately manifested by France and by America for African + colonisation, and also by Holland. + + The projectors, for the honour of their own country, are anxious + that Great Britain may not, through supineness, suffer this + important discovery to be wrested from her by any foreign power, + but that she should _at least share the glory_ due to this + important achievement, the completion of which would _immortalize + the prince who should cherish it to its maturity_. + + Capitalists, and gentlemen resident in Great Britain, desirous of + further information on this subject, may address themselves to + JAMES GREY JACKSON, whose residence, at any time, may be known at + Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown, London. + + TO THE BRITISH PUBLIC. + + London, 31st March, 1819. + + The above plan is ingenuously, liberally, and disinterestedly +254 submitted to the consideration of British capitalists and merchants + of respectability. The advantages to be derived from such an + establishment as is here contemplated, if not evident to Great + Britain, is clearly visible to Holland, to France, and to America. + + The projector, therefore, without mentioning the offers that have + been made to him by a foreign maritime power, and _without + courting_ the suffrages of British merchants in support of this + plan, has it in contemplation, (_provided no attention is paid to + it in England_,) to lay this eligible scheme open to a foreign + power. If, therefore, the projector should accept employment in + this undertaking from a foreign power, it will be in the + conviction, that _it is more to the interest of mankind in general, + and to Europe in particular_, that this plan for opening an + _extensive, lucrative, and beneficial commerce with Africa_, (which + would necessarily lead to its civilisation,) should be known to, + and adopted by, _a foreign power_, than that this vast and + little-known continent should, (to the indelible disgrace of + civilised Europe,) _still continue to remain_ an useless and an + undiscovered country to the present generation! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome of the + Trade carried on by Great Britain and the European States in the + Mediterranean, indirectly with Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of + North Africa, and with other States of Sudan_. + + Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and other commercial ports of France +255 and Italy, as well as of Spain, send to Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, + and Egypt, _for the markets of Sudan_, manufactured silks, damask, + brocade, velvets, raw silk, combs of box and ivory, gold-thread, + paper, manufactured sugar, cochineal, and various other + merchandise. + + Great Britain sends to the Barbary ports in the Mediterranean, and + to Mogodor on the Atlantic Ocean (which are afterwards conveyed to + Timbuctoo), for distribution at the several markets of Sudan-- + + _East India Goods, viz._--Gum benjamin, cassia, cinnamon, mace, + nutmegs, cloves, ginger, black pepper, Bengal silk, China silks, + nankeens, blue linens, long cloths, and muslins (mulls). + + _West India Produce_.--Pimento, tobacco, coffee, cocoa, and + manufactured sugar. + + _Linens_.--Dimities, plattilias, creas, rouans, Britannias, + cambrics, and Irish linens. + + _Hardware_.--Iron nails, copper ditto, brass ditto, sword blades, + dagger ditto, guns, gunpowder, knives, &c. &c. + + _Cloths_.--Superfine, of plain brilliant colours, not mixtures, and + cassimeres. And various other articles of merchandise. + + Immense quantities of salt are also sent to Timbuctoo, which is for + the most part collected at the mines of Tishet and Shangareen, (see + the map of northern and central Africa, in the New Supplement to + the Encyclopaedia Britannica,) through which the caravan would pass + to Timbuctoo. +256 + The following are the articles purchased by the Moors and Arab + traders, and are the returns brought back to Barbary from Sudan; + viz. + + Gold dust, and trinkets of pure Wangara gold, of various fashions, + of the manufacture of Housa and Jinnie.--_B'Kore Sudan_ (fumigation + of Sudan), a kind of frankincense highly esteemed by the Africans. + Ostrich feathers (the finest in the world). Elephants' Teeth. + _Korkidan_, so called by the Arabs, being the horns of the + rhinoceros: these are a very costly article, and are in high + estimation among the muselmen, for sword-hilts and dagger-handles. + _Guza Sarawie_ (Grains of Paradise). Gum Copal Assafoetida, and a + great variety of drugs for manufacturing uses, and various roots + for dyeing. Ebony. Camwood. Sandal wood. Indigo, equal to that of + Guatimala: to which may be added, the command of the gum trade of + Senegal. + + All the foregoing merchandise being first landed at Alexandria, + Tripoli, Tunis, Algiers, and Tetuan, and other Barbary ports in the + Mediterranean, _as well as at Mogodor on the western coast of + Africa_, are afterwards sold to the Muhamedan merchants, who sell + them with a very good profit to other Moors. These goods frequently + go through three, four, and five hands, before they reach the + consumer in Sudan, subject to a profit gained by each holder of + from twenty to thirty per cent.; the last purchaser, who conveys +257 them through the Desert, however, expects, and generally obtains, + from fifty to sixty per cent. profit on them, to which he considers + himself entitled, from the fatigue and privations of his passage + through the Desert, during a journey through a country, for the + most part barren, of above fifteen hundred miles in length; through + various kingdoms and principalities, subject to a charge for + (_statta_) convoy at the exit and entrance of each respective state + or district on each side of the Sahara, as well as in the Sahara + itself. + + But, according to the plan here suggested to the commercial + community, all these various articles, instead of passing through + five several hands, would now pass through only two hands, viz. + through those of the shippers in England, and those of their agents + established on _the western coast of Africa_, who would sell them + directly to the Timbuctoo trader, which latter, instead of having + several principalities and kingdoms to pass through (at the exit + from each of which, as well as at the entrance of them, he would + have a charge for protection or convoy, called _statta_, levied on + the goods), would have no convoy-charge, or statta, to pay; he + would have but ten hundred, instead of fifteen or sixteen hundred + miles to go, being about two-thirds of the distance of the road + from Tunis or Tripoli, through Fezzan, to Timbuctoo. + + N.B. There is an immense bank near the contemplated depot, or port +258 (abounding in fish, which now supplies the _wahs_, or cultivated + spots in the desert, as well as the territories on the southern + confines thereof), which produces fish sufficient to supply the + whole of the interior of Africa, as well as the shores of the + Mediterranean, &c. &c. + + _Letter from Vasco de Gama, in elucidation of this Plan_. + + Sir, + + The Society of Encouragement for National Industry in France, has + granted prizes for various discoveries in the arts and sciences; + but I wish government, or some society of our own country, would + offer a liberal prize for the best mode of colonising Africa, and + for meliorating the condition of the inhabitants of that vast and + little known continent. A well-digested plan for the discovery of + this continent might be followed by the most desirable events. The + efforts of the African Association have, to say the least, been + lamentably disastrous; little good can be anticipated from the + efforts of solitary or scientific travellers in a country where + science is not cultivated, and where the travellers know little or +259 nothing of the[173] general language of Africa, or of the manners + and dispositions of the natives. + + [Footnote 173: The general language of North Africa is the + Western Arabic, with a knowledge of which language, a traveller + may make himself intelligible wherever he may go; either in the + negro countries of Sudan, in Egypt, Abyssinia, Sahara, or + Barbary.] + + A knowledge therefore of the _African Arabic_ appears indispensable + to this great undertaking; and it should seem that a commercial + adventurer is much more likely to obtain his object than a + scientific traveller, for this plain reason,--because it is much + easier to persuade the Africans that we travel into their country + for the purposes of commerce and its result--_profit_, than to + persuade them that we are so anxious to ascertain the course of + their rivers! + + Accordingly, it was aptly observed by the Negroes of Congo, when + they learned that Captain Tuckey came not to trade nor to make war; + _"What then come for? only to take walk and make book?"_ + + I do not mean now to lay down a plan for the colonisation of + Africa, or for opening an extensive commerce with that vast + continent, but I would suggest the propriety of the method by which + the East India Company govern their immense territories. _I would + wish to see an African Company formed on an extensive scale, with a + large capital_. I am convinced that such a company would be of more + service to the commerce of this country than the present India + trade, where the natives, _without being in want_ of our + manufactures, surpass us in ingenuity. But the Africans, on the + contrary, _are in want_ of our manufactured goods, and give immense +260 sums for them. According to a late author, who has given us the + fullest description[174] of Timbuctoo[175] and its vicinity, a + _Plattilia_ is there worth fifty Mexico dollars, or twenty _meezens + of gold_, each meezen being worth two and a half Mexico dollars; _a + piece of Irish linen_ of ordinary quality, and measuring + twenty-five yards, is worth seventy-five Mexico dollars; and a + quintal of _loaf sugar_ is worth one hundred Mexico dollars. Now if + we investigate the parsimonious mode of traversing the Desert, we + shall find that a journey of 1500 English miles is performed from + Fas to Timbuctoo at the rate of forty shillings sterling per + quintal, so that loaf sugar (a weighty and bulky article) can be + rendered from London at Timbuctoo through Tetuan and Fas, including + the expense of a land-carriage of 1500 miles at about 6L. per + quintal, thus: + + Refined sugar on board in London for _s. d._ + per cwt. 70 0 + + Duty on importation in any part of + Marocco, ten per cent. 7 0 + + Freight, &c. five per cent. 3 6 + + Land carriage across the Desert on camels + to Timbuctoo 40 0 + ----- + s. 120 6 + ----- + + [Footnote 174: See new Supplement to the Encyclopedia + Britannica, article Africa, page 98.] + + [Footnote 175: See the account of Timbuctoo appended to + Jackson's account of Marocco, published by Cadell and Davies, + London, Chap, 18.] +261 + So that if 100 lb. of loaf sugar rendered, at Timbuctoo cost + 120_s_. 6_d_ and sells there for 100 Mexico dollars at 4_s_. 6_d_. + each, or for 22L. 5_s_. there will result a profit of 270 per cent. + + The profit in fine goods, such as the linens before mentioned, is + still more considerable, not being subject to so heavy a charge for + carriage. The immense quantity of[176] gold dust and gold bars that + would be brought from Timbuctoo, Wangara, Gana, and other + countries, in exchange for this merchandise, would be incalculable, + and has, perhaps, never yet been contemplated by Europeans!!--In + the same work, above quoted, 3d edition, page 289, will be found a + list of the various merchandise exportable from Great Britain, + which suit the market of the interior of Africa or Sudan: and also + a list of the articles which we should receive in return for those + goods. + + [Footnote 176: The Kings, David and Solomon, extracted from + Africa to enrich the temple of Jerusalem upwards of + 800,000,000L. sterling, a sum sufficient to discharge the + national debt; see Commercial Magazine for May 1819, page 6.; + which is eight times as much gold as the mines of Brazil have + produced since their discovery in 1756. See Commercial Magazine + for the same month, page 44.] + + Plans to penetrate to the mart of Timbuctoo (which would supply + Housa, Wangara, Gana, and other districts of Sudan with European + merchandize) have been formed; but if a treaty of commerce were + made with any of the Negro kings, these plans would be subject to + various impediments. +262 + The goods, in passing through hostile territories, (these + sovereigns living in a state of continual warfare with each other,) + would be subject to innumerable imposts; _it would therefore be + expedient to form a plan whereby the goods should reach Timbuctoo + through an eligible part of the Desert_: but some persons who have + been in the habit of trading for gum to _Portandik_, have declared + the inhabitants of Sahara to be a wild and savage race, untractable + and not to be civilised by commerce, or by any other means. This I + must beg leave to contradict: the Arabs of Sahara, from their + wandering habits, are certainly wild, and _they are hostile to all + who do not understand their language_; but if two or three + Europeans capable of holding colloquial intercourse with them, were + to go and establish a factory on their coast, and then suggest to + them the benefit _they would derive_, being the _carriers_ of such + a trade as is here contemplated, their ferocity would be + transferred forthwith into that virtue in the practice of which + they so eminently excel all other nations, _hospitality_; and the + most inviolable alliance might be formed with such a people. I + speak not from the experience of books, but from an actual + intercourse, and from having passed many years of my youth among + them. +263 + An advantageous spot might be fixed upon on the western coast, in + an independent district, where our alliance would be courted, from + which the Kafila[177] or Akkaba would have to pass through only one + tribe with perfect safety, and subject to no impost whatever; + neither would they be subject to any duty on entering the town of + Timbuctoo, as they would enter at the _Beb Sahara_, or gate of the + Desert, which _exempts them_ from duty or impost. + + [Footnote 177: Caravan.] + + That civilisation would be the result of commerce, and that the + trade in slaves would decrease with the increase of our commerce + with these people, there can be little doubt; and, independent of + the advantages of an extensive commerce, the consolation would be + great to the Christian and to the Philosopher, of having converted + millions of brethren made in the perfection of God's image, and + endowed with reason, from barbarism to civilisation, if not to + Christianity!!! + + Let us hope, then, that some of the intelligent readers of your + luminous and interesting pages will direct their attention to this + great national object, and produce ah eligible and well-digested + plan for the cultivation of a mutual intercourse _through the + medium qf commerce with Africa_, and for the civilisation of that + hitherto neglected continent. + + VASCO DE GAMA. + + _Eton, 28th May, 1819_. +264 + + _On Commercial Intercourse with Africa_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + The plan of your correspondent, for opening a commercial + intercourse with the interior of Africa, appears to me so direct + and simple, that I am only surprised it has not been thought of + before. The Moors are the merchants of Africa; the chain of + communication that runs from the states of Barbary to the negro + kingdoms, and from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea. + To judge of the humanity of these people from the accounts of + shipwrecked sailors, whom they have dragged into slavery, and then + liberated for money, would be not less fallacious than to estimate + the character of the English nation from the plunderers of the + wrecks on their coast. From such accounts, the name of Moor has + inspired us with horror; and Park's detention at the camp of Ali, + one of their chiefs, has contributed to confirm it. Park, however, + so far from endeavouring to conciliate his captors, endeavoured, by + his own confession, to appear as contemptible as possible in their + eyes; and yet, with this disadvantage, the greater part of the + miseries he endured proceeded from the climate and the irritation + of his own mind. + + The Arabs of Sahara are the carriers of merchandize throughout + North Africa, and the Moors are in the constant habit of selling +265 gum to the French on the Senegal. The French say they are + perfidious; but they give no proof of it that I have seen. I have + met with a French traveller, who owns that his countrymen deceive + them either in the weight or measure of the gum they purchase. + + Bruce found a friend in every Moorish merchant, and integrity and + intelligence in all. And where should these qualities be found in a + country like the interior of Africa, in which learning has no place + but among merchants? + + So much for the proposed carriers of English goods to Timbuctoo. + Now for the road. The fertile parts of Africa are hot and humid, + unwholesome and dangerous; and the kings are often at war with each + other. Park experienced both these evils; and the wonder was, not + so much that he perished on his second journey, as that he returned + from his first. The Desert is dry and heathful. It is sprinkled + with fertile spots, which form a succession of known + resting-places, and the distance between each requires a certain + number of days to travel. The Moors are at home in Sahara; and, + when they go long journeys, the fertile spots are their inns. The + road from the coast of Sahara is also the shortest that has yet + been pointed out to Timbuctoo. + + If the means of executing the plan appear sufficient, it is not + necessary to say any thing in favour of the object: the exchange of + British manufactures for gold, speaks for itself. But there is no +266 time to be lost. The French settlement of Galam is advantageously + situated for commerce with Timbuctoo: a Frenchman has already + travelled from Galam to that city, I believe on a commercial + speculation, and he has returned safe. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa_. + + When we consider the maritime strength of Great Britain; her + command of the ocean; the vicinity to Europe of West Barbary, one + of the finest countries in the world; the rich and valuable produce + which is cultivated in this country;--when we consider that our + garrison of Gibraltar is in its vicinage, and but a few hours' sail + from it, we are naturally astonished that our communication with + this country is so limited. That we have less commercial + communication with Barbary, than we have with countries that do not + open to us any thing like the commercial advantages that this + country offers, though they are thousands of miles from us. It + appears relevant, therefore, to inquire, whence originates this + impeded intercourse? There are two great impediments to our free + intercourse with Sudan through Marocco: viz., a general ignorance + of the Arabic language, as spoken in the latter country; and the + repugnancy of the Muhamedan religion to that of Christ. With + respect to the first of these impediments, it is remarkable that + this learned language is so little known in Europe,--this language, +267 the most prevalent in the world, a language which is spoken or + understood almost without intermission from the western shores of + Africa on the Atlantic ocean, to the confines of China,--a language + understood, wherever Muhamedans are to be found, throughout all the + populous and commercial regions of Africa, from the Western Ocean + to the Red Sea, and from the Mediterranean to the country of + Kaffers,[178] in the vicinage of the Cape of Good Hope. With + respect to the second of these impediments, the repugnancy of the + Muhamedan religion to that of Christ, it may justly be observed, + that this is not really so great as we are apt to imagine; the + moral principles of Muhamedans being not unlike those of the former + Christians, being in fact a composition of Hebrew and Christian + morality. They acknowledge Jesus Christ to be a prophet, and tell + us, that, in this respect, they are on the safe side, as we impute + no Divine authority to Muhamed. But a most violent repugnance to + Christians has been propagated by the (_Fakeers_) Muselmen saints, + or holy men. They have industriously circulated the belief of an + old superstitious prediction which they have on record, viz. that + the Christians will invade the Muhamedan countries, take their +268 cities and towns, and establish the Christian religion on the ruins + of that of Muhamed, and take possession of the country. These + reports, propagated, as before observed, by the (_Fakeers_) + Muhamedan saints, among the lower orders, have kindled a high + degree of rancour and animosity, (equal to that which the Catholics + formerly indulged towards their protestant brethren,) which will + never be extinguished until a friendly alliance and extensive + commercial intercourse be established with them; which alone can + soften this rancour and animosity into peace and amity. This + animosity has been increased also by the rancorous anti-christian + disposition manifested towards these people by the writings of + Roman catholic priests and others.[179] If these uncharitable + opinions of each other could be eradicated, the blessings that + would result to the Africans would be incalculable; a reciprocal + exchange of good offices might pave the way to purchase of the + Emperor of Marocco the port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz, aptly + denominated, from its contiguity to the Sahara (_Beb Sudan_) "the + gate of Sudan," which, in the hands of the English, would be the + key to the whole of the interior of Africa, and an effectual link +269 in our chain of communication with the interior of that + undiscovered continent; it would moreover secure to us the entire + commerce of those extensive and populous regions, to the exclusion + of our Moorish competitors of Cairo, Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, + Algiers, and other ports of Barbary, who supply the people of Sudan + with European merchandise at the fourth, fifth, and sixth hand. + + [Footnote 178: _Kaffer (or Caffre_) is an Arabic word which + signifies infidels or unbelievers (in Muhamed); the very name + has been given by Muhamedans, and therefore it is to be + presumed that the Muhamedans approximate the countries + contiguous to the Cape.] + + [Footnote 179: See Martin Martinius. Abraham Ecchellensis. + Maccarius, Theolog. Polemic. Peter Cevaller. Robert de Retz, + translator of the Koran. See also the support of this assertion + in Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, enlarged + edition, published by Cadell and Davies, Strand, from p. 196. + to 208.] + + The abolition of the slave-trade cannot be effected until we shall + have substituted some commerce with the Negro countries, equivalent + at least, or that shall be more than equivalent to it, otherwise + the negro sovereigns of Sudan will never be induced to relinquish + so great a source of profit. Every naval officer in His Majesty's + service knows, that if we were to have thirty sail of the line + continually off the coast of Guinea, it would not be sufficient to + annihilate this abominable traffic, or to deter people from + embarking in a trade that yields such extraordinary profits. This + being admitted, as it certainly will be by every intelligent man, + it follows, that the system now in operation by the British + government for the abolition of the slave-trade, will be attended + only with an unnecessary expense to this country, without the + possibility of effecting the desired object; but, on the contrary, + judging from recent events, there is every reason to presume, that + this detestable commerce will increase, as it has continued to + increase, these last two or three years, in spite of all our +270 operations to prevent it; the Spaniards alone having imported into + the island of Cuba more slaves in 1818 and 1819, than in the four + preceding years. The result has been, that that island has + produced, in 1819, more than double the produce of the former year; + their waste lands, accordingly, are in progressive cultivation, + and, if they go on thus improving, that island, in a few years + hence, will produce coffee and sugar sufficient for the supply of + all the markets of Europe. + + Finally, Slavery will never give way to any thing but civilisation; + the civilisation of Africa can never be accomplished but through a + great and extensive commercial intercourse, a commerce that will + _enrich the negroes, and enable them, by a supply of arms, to + contend with and gain an ascendancy over their Muhamedan + oppressors_, who want no other pretext for attacking them, than + that of their being idolaters, which idolatry, it is asserted, + authorises the Muselman to make them slaves. Thus, _the abolition + of slavery must depend on the Africans themselves_; and although it + is in our power to supply them with the means for _their + emancipation_, yet it is absurd to suppose that we can effect it by + our naval operations. If all the great sovereigns of Europe were to + agree to make the trading in slaves piracy, they would not prevent + it. WE cannot emancipate them; _that only can be accomplished by + their own energy_, awakened in them by commercial intercourse, and + its accompanying civilisation. +271 + Much might be done if all the African societies were to unite their + interest, knowledge, and abilities for this desired object. If the + African Company would unite their energies with the African + Association, and with the African Institution, such an union would + promote the civilisation of the African continent, and the + conversion of the Negroes to Christianity. + + ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOSQUES. + + The architecture of this country is of the Gothic character. The + mosques are built somewhat like our churches: the body of the + mosques are covered with green glazed tiles; the steeples are + invariably an exact square, the sides being ten or twelve feet, not + tapering as those of Coventry, but the top having the same + dimensions as the base. At the top is erected a smaller square, + with a flag-staff similar to a gallows, to which is suspended every + day at noon, a white flag, the signal of preparation for prayers; + but on Fridays, the Muhamedan Sabbath, a dark-blue one is + substituted for the same purpose. Some of the mosques are paved + with white and black chequered marble, some are tessellated + pavements, consisting of white, blue, and green glazed tiles, about + two inches square, a very pretty mode of paving, extremely clean, + and has a very cool appearance; others are terrassed, which is lime +272 and small stones beaten down with wooden mallets. They excel in the + art of making terras. The houses are all flat roofed, so as to + resist the heaviest rains: the declivity of the terrasses is so + imperceptible, that it is just sufficient to give the rains a + tendency to the great conduit or pipe that leads to the mitfere + underneath the house, which is underground, and has a terras + bottom, impervious to the water. Here is collected water sufficient + for the family or household during the year; the lime that washes + into the mitfere from the terrassed roof, purifies the water, and + preserves it from worms and other insects. They have no ornaments + in their mosques; but the place where the Mufti or Fakeer reads + prayers, is covered with mats or carpets; the rest of the floor is + bare, and the respective individuals prostrate themselves on the + bare floor, or on an antelope's or _Elhorreh_[180] skin, or the + skin of a lion or tiger, prepared in a superior manner by the + tanners at Marocco, the leather of which is made soft as silk, and + white as snow. + + [Footnote 180: For a description of this curious animal, see + Jackson's Marocco, page 83, Chapter on Zoology.] + + The bodies of the dead are never laid in the mosques or near them, + but are invariably carried out of the town, to some coba[181] in +273 the vicinity. The bodies of the dead are washed, and covered with + lawn, and placed on an oblong wooden machine, resembling a box + without a cover, called a _kiffen;_ it has four legs about six + inches long, to uphold it from the ground, and two horizontal + projections at each end, to place on the shoulders of four men, + generally the nearest relations of the deceased, who thus carry the + body to the grave, chaunting with the whole company, amounting + sometimes to some hundreds, _La Allah, ila Allah wa Muhamed Rassule + Allah_, "There is no God but God, and Muhamed is the prophet of + God." This repetition may appear extraordinary to the English + reader; but let it be observed that the Muhamedans never use the + pronoun for the name of the Omnipotent, but invariably the noun. + The body is taken out of the bier, and laid in the ground, the face + upwards, without any coffin or box, the legs towards Mecca, and + then covered with earth, so that it might, at the resurrection, + rise with its eyes towards (_El Kaaba_) Muhamed's mausoleum. No + money is paid for the ground, nor is any expense paid for a + monument: a stick or a stone stands erect at the head, and another +274 at the feet. If the deceased lived a moral, inoffensive, and + exemplary life, the public, at its own expense, oftentimes erects + (_kaba_) a cubical building with a dome at the top to the departed, + and he is thence denominated (_fakeer_) a saint. + + [Footnote 181: A coba is a cubical building, about forty or + fifty feet square, having a dome on the top, inhabited by a + fakeer; the ground adjacent to this building is consecrated for + the dead, but is never inclosed. The living reverence the dead + by never, riding over these grounds; but travellers, in passing + stop and repeat a fatha. When the ground has been consecrated + to the dead, and the _coba_ has an inhabitant, who must be a + sanctified person, he immediately assumes the name of fakeer or + priest, and the building, and cemetery attached to it, becomes + a _zowia_ or sanctuary.] + + The palaces of this country generally consist of a perfect square + wall, containing from two to forty acres of land, or more; for the + imperial palace at Mequinas covers about two square miles of + ground. At each corner of the square is a cubical building, with an + angular top, of green glazed tiles, having four windows, one in + each side; in the centre of the square is the palace, surrounded by + a colonnade one or two stories high. The pavement is either + tessellated or of chequered marble; some of the walls of the rooms + are also tessellated with arabesque, borders, the ceilings are + painted with gay colours, viz. scarlet, sky-blue, green, yellow, + and orange, in arabesque, and some of them are very elegant. The + houses of the opulent are diminutive imitations of the palaces. The + house of (_the Talb Caduse_) the minister of the Sultan Seedi + Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Marocco, is a building, elegantly neat. + Abd Rahamen ben Nassar's house at Mogodor, is well deserving the + investigation of an European architect, and his magnificent new + house at Saffee, is a model of a particular style of architecture. + Some of the houses of the princes and the military at Mequinas are +275 handsome buildings, and many of the houses of the opulent merchants + at Fas, who have their commercial establishments at Timbuctoo, and + other countries of Sudan, are extremely neat and truly unique, + having beautiful gardens in the interior, ornamented with the + choicest and most odoriferous flowers and shrubs; with fountains of + running water, clear as crystal, delectable to behold in this warm + climate, and such as are not to be seen in any part of Europe. + +276 + + FRAGMENTS, NOTES, + AND + ANECDOTES; + + _Illustrating the Nature and Character of the Country_. + + + + + + INTRODUCTION. + + In recording the following Anecdotes and Fragments the naked truth + is stated, without the embellishments of language, or the labour of + rhetoric, which the wiser part of mankind have always approved of + as the most instructive way of writing; and all such as are + acquainted with books will readily agree with me, that many authors + stretch, even to the prejudice of truth, from an affectation of + elegance of style. + + The following facts, therefore, will form the materials for a + history, rather than a history itself. + + The study of the _language and customs of the Arabs is the best + comment upon the Old Testament_. The language of the modern Jews is + little to be regarded; their dispersion into various nations, +277 having no fixed habitation, being _wholly_ addicted to their own + interest, their conformation to the respective customs of the + various nations through which they are dispersed; have caused them, + in a great measure, to forget their ancient customs and original + language, except what is preserved in the Bible and in the exercise + of their religion. Whereas the Arabs have continued in the constant + possession of their country many centuries, and are so tenacious of + their customs and habits, that they are, at this day, the same men + they were three thousand years ago. Accordingly, many of their + customs, at this day, remind us of what happened among their + ancestors in the days of Abraham. + + _Trade with Sudan_. + + 1795, June 14th. Two (_Akkabas_) accumulated caravans of Gum Sudan, + called in England "Turkey[182] Gum Arabic," have reached the Arab + encampment of Dikna, not far from the northern confines of the + Sahara; and will be at Santa Cruz, in the province of Suse, in a + fortnight. + + [Footnote 182: This gum is conveyed from Sudan to Alexandria, + in Egypt; there it is shipped off for Smyrna, or + Constantinople, and from thence imported into England.] + + _Wrecked Ships_. + +278 A large ship, supposed to be Spanish, bound to Lima, has been + wrecked near Cape Noon; the cargo consists of lace, silks, linens, + superfine cloths, and is estimated by the Jews, at Wedinoon, to be + worth half a million of dollars. + + _Wrecked Ships on the Coast_. + + Extract of a Letter from James Jackson, and Co. at Mogodor, to + their correspondents in London. January, 1801. + + The wine and dollars per the Perola de Setubal, wrecked on the + coast of Suse, have been recovered from the Arabs, by Alkaid Hamo, + the governor of Santa Cruz; and we have just received them safe by + a boat. If this vessel had been wrecked on the coast of Cornwall, + it is more than probable that the cargo would have been plundered. + We have presented the governor with twenty dollars, for his + extraordinary energy, exertions, and great merit in the recovery of + the whole of this property. + + The Prosperous, Captain Driver, a southwhaler, was wrecked near + Cape Noon, in 1790; the crew was redeemed by me, and brought to my + house at Santa Cruz, after being upwards of two years in captivity + in the Desert: and I sent them all from Santa Cruz to Mogodor on + mules, where, after remaining about two months, the Bull-dog sloop + of war came down from Gibraltar for them, and they were sent off to + her by the imperial order. +279 + _Wrecked Sailors_. + + English seamen that are so unfortunate as to be wrecked on the + coast of Sahara, are generally better treated than the French, + Italian, or Spanish, because there is a greater probability of a + ransom; and because it is well known that the English admit no + slaves in their own country. + + _Timbuctoo Coffee_. + + Coffee grows spontaneously in the vicinage of Timbuctoo, _south of + the Nile Elabeed_. I sent a quantity to Mr. James Willis, formerly + Consul for Senegambia: it was of a bitter taste, which is the + general character of this grain before it is improved by + cultivation. + + _Sand Baths_. + + The Arabs bury the body erect in sand, up to the chin, as a remedy + for several disorders, particularly syphilis. + + _Civil War common in West Barbary_. + + In the provinces of Haha and Suse, particularly in the mountainous + districts, intestine wars frequently prevail: kabyl against kabyl, + village against village, house against house, family against +280 family. In these lamentable wars, which so continually disturb the + peace of society, retaliation is considered an incumbent duty on + every individual who may have lost a relation, so that the embers + of hostility are thus incessantly fanned; and this lamentable + revenge pervades whole clans, to the utter destruction of every + humane and philanthropic propensity, converting the human race to a + degradation below the beasts of the field. + + _Policy of the Servants of the Emperor_. + + The Bashaws, and others holding responsible situations in the + empire, are continually purchasing a good name and good report at + court, by courtesy to and by feeing the ministers of the Emperor to + report favourably of them, whenever opportunity may offer. + Incredible sums are sometimes expended in this way. + + _El_[183] _Wah El Grarbee, or the Western Oasis_. + + The prince, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother of the reigning Emperor, + Muley Soliman, purchased, on his return from the pilgrimage to +281 Mecca, a domain in (Santariah[184]) the Oasis of Ammon or Siwah, as + a retreat; and being appointed by his father Seedi Muhamed, viceroy + of the province of Suse[185], he was enabled to give succour to the + Shelluhs, inhabitants of that province, on their pilgrimage to + Mecca, and to entertain them with the comforts of hospitality on + their passage through the Desert. This was the more agreeable to + these Shelluhs, because, after passing a long journey of some + thousands of miles through Sahara, they reached, at Santariah, not + only a territory yielding every comfort and necessary of life, but + a country wherein their own prince had authority, and wherein their + own native language is spoken and understood. + + [Footnote 183: In the Lybian Desert there are three _Wahs_ (or + _Oasises_, as we call them): the greater, called _El Wah El + Kabeer_; the lesser, called _El Wah Segrer_; and the Oasis of + Ammon, called _El Wah El Grarbie_, i. e. the Wah of the West.] + + [Footnote 184: The Wah of the West is also called by the + Mograbines _Santariah_.] + + [Footnote 185: See the map of West Barbary.] + + When this prince's father, the emperor Seedi Muhamed died[186], the + prince Abdsalam engaged Alkaid Hamed ben Abdsaddock, late governor + of Mogodor, to go to Santariah, and sell this domain for him; which + he accordingly did. It is more than probable that the Shelluhs of + Siwah are an _emigration_ from Suse. + + [Footnote 186: About twenty-eight years since.] + + _Prostration, the etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + +282 An ambassador from Great Britain was sent to the court of Marocco, + during the reign of Seedi Muhamed, father of the present emperor, + Soliman. On his arrival at Fas, (where the court was at that time + held,) the (_Mule M'shoer_) Master of the Audience, who was the + (_Sherreef_) Prince Muley Dris, came up to the ambassador and + informed him, that it was customary for all persons coming into the + imperial presence to take off their shoes, and to prostrate + themselves. To these ceremonies the ambassador objected, alleging + that he was received by the king his master with his shoes on; and + that he presumed the Emperor, on a proper representation being made + to him, would not exact from him greater obedience than he paid to + his own sovereign. The master of the audience reported the + interpretation of the ambassador's remarks to his imperial master. + The emperor paused, and (insinuating that the ambassador was + somewhat presumptuous in placing a Christian king on a par with a + Muselman emperor) commanded the prince to dismiss the ambassador + for that time, till the following day. In the interim, the Emperor + urged the master of the audience to make diligent inquiry how the + Christians conducted themselves in the act of prayer before the + Almighty God; and whether they then uncovered their feet, and + prostrated themselves, as Muhamedans did. The morning following, + the master of audience procured the necessary information + respecting this point, and acquainted the Emperor that the English +283 Christians, like the Jews, prayed erect; but that they uncovered + their heads, and bowed at the name of Jesus of Nazareth. "Go, + then," replied the emperor, "and let the ambassador be presented to + me without uncovering his feet, and without prostration; for I + cannot require more obeisance from a foreigner, than he himself + pays to Almighty God." + + _Massacre of the Jews_, _and Attack on Algiers_. + + In the year 1806, when Algiers was attacked by the Arabs of the + mountains, and by the inhabitants of the plains, the Jews of the + city were massacred. It was suggested to the present Emperor of + Marocco that a favourable opportunity now offered to subdue + Algiers, and add it to the empire: but the Emperor replied, "That + it was wiser to secure and keep together all those provinces that + his father had left him, than to endeavour by _uncertain and + expensive_ warfare to extend his dominions, by invading a + neighbouring nation." + + _Treaties with Muhamedan Princes_. + + Treaties of peace and commerce between the Muselmen princes and + Christian powers, are regarded by the former no longer than it is +284 expedient to their convenience. Muselmen respect treaties no longer + than it is their apparent interest so to do. When an ambassador + once expostulated with his imperial majesty for having infringed on + a treaty made, an emperor of Marocco replied--"Dost thou think I + am a Christian, that I should be a _slave_ to my word?" + + _Berebbers of Zimurh Shelleh_. + + This kabyl of Berebbers inhabit the plains west and south-west of + Mequinas. They are a fine race of men, well-grown, and good + figures; they have a noble presence, and their physiognomy + resembles the ancient Roman. The laws of hospitality, however, are + disregarded among them: they will plunder travellers who sojourn + with them, whenever they have an opportunity. + + _The European Merchants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation_. + + The late emperor, Muley Yezzid, proceeded from Mequinas to Marocco, + with an army of thirty thousand cavalry, to take the field against + the rebellious Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of the province of + Abda, acting conjointly with the bashaw of the province of + Duquella, who had collected an army of eighty thousand men, of +285 which fifty thousand were horse. The Emperor, on his arrival at + Marocco, was exasperated against the kabyls of the south; and was + informed that the merchants of Mogodor had supplied his rebel + subject, Abdrahaman, with ammunition. Enraged at this report, which + the exasperated state of his mind prompted him to believe, he + issued an order to the Governor of Mogodor, implicating the greater + part of the European merchants of that port of high treason, and + ordered their decapitation. This order was brought by one Fenishe, + a relation of Tahar Fenishe; who had been, some years before, + ambassador from Marocco to the court of St. James's. The Governor, + however, suspecting that the order had been issued in a moment of + irritation, delayed its execution, in the hope that it might be + countermanded; or, in hope that the result of a battle would render + it unnecessary to be put in execution.--Soon afterwards, news + arrived at Mogodor that the two armies had met, had fought, and the + Emperor had vanquished his antagonists, who had more than double + his force, but was himself dangerously wounded. This induced the + governor still further to delay the execution; having now + ascertained that the order was obtained by a stratagem of malicious + and ill-disposed people. The next day news came that the Emperor + suffered extremely from a ball in the upper part of the thigh, +286 which the surgeons could not extract. The Emperor, in a fit of + frenzy, from pain or passion, took his (_kumaya_) dagger, cut open + the wound to the ball, and expired soon after. Thus were the + merchants of Mogodor saved providentially from an untimely death. + + _The Emperor Muley Yezzid's Body disinterred_. + + When the united armies of Abda and Duquella were vanquished and + dispersed by the Imperial troops, in the neighbourhood of Marocco, + the report became general that the Emperor was wounded. It is + asserted that several men in ambush had orders to wait their + opportunity to fire at the Emperor, when he should approach; and + when the Emperor did approach the bush wherein these men lay + concealed, they all fired. It appears, however, that only one shot + had effect. The Emperor finding himself wounded, instead of being + discouraged, was reanimated to the combat, and entered into the + midst of it; a soldier by his side observed to him, that he was + wounded, and whilst expressing his hope that it was not dangerous, + the Emperor, with one stroke of his sabre, cut off his head! Even + after the death of this redoubted warrior, the people trembled, + doubting the truth of his decease. Abdrahaman went personally to + Marocco and had the body disinterred to ascertain the fact, + suspecting that the report of his death might be a stratagem; but +287 having ascertained it, he returned to Saffy, and his brother Muley + Esslemmah was immediately proclaimed by Abdrahaman. Doubts of the + Emperor's death still pervaded the minds of men: it was reported + that he had been seen in the Atlas Mountains, in Draha, in Suse. At + length a person somewhat resembling him in person, appeared between + Wedinoon and Ait Bamaran (see the map): the panic took; and men + from all parts of the country, who had known the Emperor, hastened + to Wedinoon to ascertain the fact. Many who were too curious were + shot by order of this pretender, to prevent the possibility of + their returning to give notice of the imposture. The immense number + of persons who now believed him to be Yezzid was incalculable; his + party increased and multiplied, and he soon had thousands of + followers who supported his cause. The infatuation of the vulgar + and the bulk of the community was astounding; for the renowned + Muley Yezzid, like his Majesty George IV., was the first horseman + in his empire, and the most accomplished gentleman: whereas + Buhellesa[187], for so he was called in derision, was so bad a + horseman that he generally rode a mule. + + [Footnote 187: So called from his generally riding a mule, with + a large stuffed saddle, rising high before and behind, covering + the whole of the mule's back, and forming a very secure seat. + This enormous and ponderous saddle-mattras is called _Hellesa_; + and as the Pretender rode on it, he was called _Bu Hellesa_; + that is the father of a _Hellesa_.] +288 + This man was reported to be an adept in the occult sciences; and it + was both reported and credited, that the occult art enabled him to + multiply corn and provision for the army to any quantity he might + want. I was established at Santa Cruz, which was three days' + horse-travelling from Buhellesa's standard; the (_Shereef,_) Prince + Abdsalam, brother to Yezzid, was then resident there, and Viceroy + of Suse. It was the Prince Abdsalam's desire to destroy this + pretender; for his army and followers exceeded now thirty thousand + men, the Prince sent to Muhamed ben Delemy, khalif of Suse, and + sheik of the Duleim Arabs, whose castle was about thirty miles + south of Santa Cruz. Delemy and the Prince were sworn friends: the + latter proposed to him to give battle to Buhellesa, and so prevent + the empire from being usurped. Neither Delemy nor the Prince had + funds to raise an army; so that neither of them knew what steps to + take. _Delemy, however, with the true spirit of a Bedouin Arab, + supported his friend in his adversity,_ and promised to exert + himself to counteract the operations of the arch-hypocrite + Buhellesa. Collecting the sheiks of the various kabyls of Suse, he + made an energetic harangue to them; and discussed with them the + expediency of their uniting together, to repel the impostor. The + sheiks were all loyal, and well affected to Muley Abd Salam; whose +289 government of Suse, by his khaliff Delemy, added to the + hospitalities with which the Prince entertained the people of Suse + at his domain, the _Wah el Grabie_, or the Oasis of Ammon, called + _Santariah_, ingratiated Muley Abd Salam so much in their favour + and esteem, that they all unanimously (_passed l'aad_[188]) joined + hands, and determined, each individually, to raise his respective + kabyl to support the cause of Muley Abd Salam. In a short time they + raised an army among themselves of ten thousand horse, and + determined to attack Buhellesa, so soon as he should begin to move + forwards, and before he should reach Terodant, in his way to + Marocco; for there he had a strong party, which would augment his + forces. The hero Delemy, who was as valiant a soldier as Muley + Yezzid himself, and as expert and dextrous in the management of the + horse, determined therefore, with less than half the force of his + antagonist, to attack him, before he should be able to gather more + strength. The army of the sheiks joined, and proceeded towards + Wedinoon. At night they learned that Buhellesa, with an army of +290 22,000 men, mostly horse, having been apprised of Delemy's + preparations and movements, had proceeded through Ait Bamaran + towards Shtuka, and that he intended to attack Delemy's castle. On + hearing this, the army halted for an hour, and returned towards + Shtuka again. In the morning they came up with Buhellesa, who was + encamped about four hours south of Delemy's castle. The march of + Delemy's troops, all hardy warriors and men of valour, was so + rapid, that Buhellesa was taken by surprise. The battle lasted + seven hours; during which Delemy's brother was wounded and + unhorsed, in the midst of the enemy's troops: but being unknown, + and in a similar dress with the rest, he recovered himself by the + assistance of some friends, sent to him by his brother the khalif, + and was enabled to rejoin his own troops. Buhellesa was so hard + pressed, that he made his retreat into a house: on being attacked + there, his pistol missed fire, and he was overcome. They + immediately cut off his head and his arms, when his army dispersed, + most of them making the best of their way to Wedinoon. That same + night, the man of Shtuka, who first attacked Buhellesa, was + dispatched with his head and feet to Muley Abd Salam, at Santa + Cruz. + + [Footnote 188: The _L'aad_ of the Arabs is a joining of hands, + without Shaking: the palms of the right hands of the parties + coming in contact with each other, and the thumbs over each + other. This is a solemn obligation among them; a calling God to + witness their resolution of mutual assistance, offensive and + defensive; a swearing to stand by each other till death; an + obligation that nothing can dissolve; such a pledge, that if a + man were to break it, he would be execrated and rejected from + society!] + + The reported approach of Buhellesa, with so strong a force, had + urged me to ship all the property I could collect; and I was on the +291 beach early the following morning, directing the shipment of my + property; when taking a ride along the beach, I met an Arab, with a + basket before him, and a foot sticking out of it. "_Salam u alik_," + I exclaimed, "And what have you got there?"--"_Alik Salam_," said + the Arab, "I have got Buhellesa's head and feet here: I killed him + myself; and the khalif Delemy has sent me with them to the Prince. + Dost thou think the Prince will reward me?"--"Certainly," said I, + "for such an essential service." The Prince gave the Arab one + hundred duckets[189]; the guns were fired; and the head and feet + were hung over an embrasure of the round battery, facing the south. + Thus terminated the career of Buhellesa. + + A short time after this, I was on a visit to Delemy, and he + accompanied me to the field of battle; which was an undulating + plain, not unlike that of Waterloo: and the house to which + Buhellesa made his escape, was not unlike the hotel de la Belle + Alliance on the plains of Waterloo, having, however, a flat roof. + + [Footnote 189: Worth 5_s._ each, but equal to 100_l_., or more, + in that country.] + + _Shelluhs: their Revenge and Retaliation._ + + A Shelluh, of the province of Suse, had been a servant in the house +292 of Mr. Hutchison, British Consul at Mogodor fifteen years; but it + happened to be twenty years since a relation of his, in Suse, had + been killed, to whom he was the next of kin but one: but the next + of kin dying, it devolved upon him to seek retaliation; no + opportunity, however, having occurred, he determined to go to Suse + to fulfil this his calling. Now above twenty years had elapsed + since the death or murder of the relation of Bel Kossem, the + Consul's servant. This man, foregoing the eligibility of his place, + apprised the Consul of his intention to leave him. Mr. Hutchison, + who esteemed him not a little for his long and faithful services, + was astonished to hear of his determination to depart; and, + apprehending that he might want an increase of pay, he offered to + increase it: but Bel Kossem told him that an imperious duty + devolved on him to revenge the blood of his ancestor. Accordingly + he received his wages, and departed forthwith for Suse. A few + months afterwards he found an opportunity of killing his enemy, + which being done, it was expected that this Shelluh would now + return to Mogodor, and resume his place again; but by a parity of + reasoning, it devolved to the next of kin of the man recently + killed to seek revenge for his murdered relation, but Bel Kossem, + to avoid the like fate, went into a distant country. This duty of + revenging death, is rigidly pursued among the Shelluhs, so that one + murder often produces ten, or even twenty deaths; each revenging + his relation or next of kin. +293 + _Travelling in Barbary._ + + It is extremely difficult, whilst travelling in this country, to + ascertain from the natives the distance of any (_douar_) encampment + of Arabs: the general answer to such a question is (_wahud saa_), + "an hour," but this is a very indefinite term, being used for a + distance from two to twelve miles, or more; therefore, as these + people have no definite notions of time or distance, the only way + of ascertaining distances, is by knowing the rate at which the + caravan goes, which is a regular pace, and consulting your watch; + by this means, the distance of any journey, however long, may be + accurately ascertained. + + _Anecdote displaying the African Character, and showing them to be + now what they were anciently, under Jugurtha._ + + A Muhamedan was sent to prison, for having killed a man; and after + remaining there some time, it was expected that the Emperor's order + would come to have him shot, or to have his right hand cut off, + with which it was presumed he killed his enemy. A friend of the + prisoner, willing to liberate him, that he might escape the + punishment that awaited him, engaged a person well acquainted with + the prison to procure his enlargement; accordingly he promised him +294 a sum of money, if he would effect this purpose. It was agreed that + the money should be paid. The liberator was then to prove to the + man advancing the money, that he had accomplished his purpose. The + night in which his liberation was to be attempted was fixed on; + ropes were ready to enable the prisoner to escape over the + prison-wall. In the mean time the next of kin of the man who had + been murdered, sought the blood of the prisoner, and was persuaded + by the man that had engaged to liberate the prisoner, that the + latter was not in prison, that he had made his escape, but that the + former would undertake to put him in his power, so as to enable him + to accomplish his revenge. This was agreed to, and accordingly a + sum of money was paid as a remuneration for the service. All + matters were arranged, and the person who paid the money was + desired to be on the rock, near the prison, outside of the town + wall, at two o'clock in the morning, and there he would find his + enemy. The person who made the first engagement was directed to be + at the same spot at three o'clock. In the mean time the liberation + was effected at two o'clock, and the prisoner was informed that his + friend would meet him under the rock at three o'clock, to conduct + him to a place secure from discovery. Soon after two o'clock, the + next of kin to the person whom the prisoner had killed came and +295 plunged a dagger into his heart; afterwards came the other man, and + saw the body of his friend, whom he recognized. On expostulating + with the liberator, the latter replied, "I have executed my + engagement to liberate your friend; I am entitled to my reward: + what has happened to him since his liberation is no concern of + mine; see you to that. But I should inform you, that soon after his + liberation, I saw a man approach, and fearing that I was + discovered, I ran and hid myself under a rock. In a short time I + returned and found your friend weltering in his blood. When I + approached him, he had just time before he expired to name to me + his murderer, who, he said, was the next of kin to the man he had + himself killed."--Note, The Shelluhs consider it a duty incumbent + on them, each, individually to revenge the blood of their family; + that they are bound to seek the murderer, if possibly he can be + found. Such is their invariable attention to this principle of + revenging blood for blood, that I have known instances of men who + have relinquished eligible appointments, to go into distant + countries, several years after a murder has been committed, to + revenge the death of a relation, after becoming, by intervening + death, the next of kin of the murdered person. + + The lamentable effects of this fatal retaliation is such, that one + death often produces twenty murders, and afterwards involves whole + kabyls in intestine wars. +296 + It is remarkable, that the more duplicity they use in these horrid + transactions, the more merit is ascribed to the agent; who is + praised in proportion to the extent of his ingenuity, or duplicity, + as was the case with the liberator above mentioned. + + _Every Nation is required to use its own Costume._ + + The Jews in West and South Barbary, have a predilection for the + European costume, in preference to their own, the former being + respected, the latter not: moreover the character of a _merchant_ + is highly respected by the Moors, and the European dress is a kind + of passport to a man as such. One day, the Emperor seeing in the + place of audience, at a great distance, a gentleman, apparently an + European ambassador, ordered the master of the audience to go and + see who he was, and what nation he represented; but it being + discovered that he was a Marocco Jew, his scarlet and gold dress + was torn from him, and a _burnose_, (a large black cloak, the + costume of the Jews of the lower order,) was put over him, when he + was buffetted and kicked out of the place of audience. The Emperor + was exasperated at this circumstance, which he considered a vain + deception: he ordered his secretary to write to all the ports in + his dominions, to desire that Jews should wear the _burnose_, that +297 Christians only should wear the European costume, and Moors and + Arabs theirs; so that thus every individual might be known by their + respective dress. On this occasion, an opulent Hebrew merchant at + Mogodor felt so much the insults he was exposed to, from wearing + the Jewish costume, that he actually paid several thousand dollars + to obtain the privilege he had formerly enjoyed, which, in + consequence of his being an opulent man, and a foreign merchant, + was granted to him. + + The name of this gentleman would here be mentioned to gratify the + curious; but as it might give umbrage to his family, and as the + intention here is only to describe the character and manners of the + country, there is, I conceive no necessity for stating + personalities. + + _Ali Bey (El Abassi), Author of the Travels under that Name._ + + This extraordinary character visited Marocco about the year 1805 or + 1806. He pretended to be a native of Aleppo, called in Arabic + _Hellebee_, and was known by the name of Seed Hellebee, which + signifies "the gentleman of Aleppo." Europeans, as well as himself, + since his return to Europe, have converted this name into Ali Bey, + of the family of the Abassides. This gentleman possessed abilities + of no ordinary degree, he was supplied with money in abundance by +298 the Spanish government. He had not been long at Mogodor, when his + munificence began to excite the suspicion of the governor, as well + as the admiration and applause of the populace. Adopting the + costume of the country, he professed himself to be a Muselman; and + as a pretext for not speaking the[190] Arabic language, he + pretended that he had gone from Aleppo, the place of his nativity, + to England when very young, and had forgotten it. He had, as he + declared, considerable property in the Bank of England. Being + desirous of collecting all the information possible respecting the + country, he procured two young Spanish renegado musicians, who + played on the guitar, and sung Arabic airs and songs, with which he + affected to be highly delighted, these musicians, however, served + his purpose in another way; for, being apprehensive of creating + suspicion by direct enquiries, he prevailed on these renegadoes to + procure the information he desired, by giving them from time to + time several questions to which they procured direct answers, as + reported by the natives. + + [Footnote 190: He afterwards learned the Arabic language, and I + believe spoke it tolerably well when he quitted this country + and proceeded to Mekka.] + + One day he gave a _fete champetre_ at (_L'arsa Sultan_), the[191] +299 Sultan's garden, situated near a very picturesque rivulet, and + contiguous to springs of excellent water, which being collected in + a large tank, was conveyed by an aqueduct, which extended the + length of the garden, to immerge or irrigate the various beds of + flowers and plants. On his return home, as he was crossing the + river near the village of Diabet, a Shelluh shot a large fish as it + was passing the shallows, Seed Hellebee, or Seed Ali Bey admired + the dexterity of the Shelluh, (who, from his quickness, was + nicknamed Deib, i.e. the fox,) and desired him to take the fish to + his house at Mogodor, which he accordingly did, and received from + Ali Bey's secretary a handful of dollars. This Shelluh was a keen + sportsman, and seldom or never missed his shot: he generally + accompanied me in my shooting excursions, and he told me this + circumstance himself, adding, that Ali Bey was such a liberal man, + that, where any other gentleman gave a dollar, he gave a handful. + It was in this manner that Ali Bey purchased his popularity. + + [Footnote 191: This garden is in the province of Haha, about + five miles S.S.E. of Mogodor, and belongs to the European + Commerce, to whom it was presented by the Late Emperor Seedi + Muhamed ben Abdallah.] + + The governor of Mogodor, Alkaid Muhamed ben Abdsaddock now began to + suspect, not only the faith of this _soi disant_ Muhamedan, but + that he had some design unavowed; and desirous of ascertaining to + what nation of Christendom he belonged, the governor engaged + Monsieur Depras, a respectable French merchant of Mogodor, who + understood several languages, to ascertain if he was a Frenchman, +300 and if not, who and what he was. The governor, in order to enable + M. Depras to converse with Ali Bey, invited them both to tea; this + introduction being effected the next day, Depras called on Ali Bey, + and conversed with him during an hour in the French language, which + he spoke so well, that the former thought there was no doubt of his + being a Frenchman. But soon after this, the Spanish Consul was + announced, and being introduced, Seed Ali Bey changed his discourse + to Spanish, which he also spoke so correctly, that Depras now + altered his opinion, and conceiving him to be a Spaniard, took his + leave. He then reported to the governor what he had seen and heard, + that he spoke French and Spanish so fluently, that he really did + not know whether he was a Frenchman or a Spaniard. + + Ali Bey continued to live in a most sumptuous and costly style, and + afterwards resolved to visit Marocco. On his journey thither, he + was particularly inquisitive respecting the population, produce, + names and residencies of the (sheiks) chiefs of Haha and Shedma, + through which provinces he passed. On his arrival at Marocco, he + still continued his magnificent establishment and sumptuous mode of + living; distributing money to the people bountifully, on the most + trifling occasions, which mode of conduct procured him universal + popularity among the lower orders. This soon excited the suspicions +301 of Alkaid Bushta, the governor of Marocco, who ingenuously informed + him, that such liberality was fit only for a Christian country, and + that he was mistaken if he flattered himself that it would be + tolerated at Marocco, and actually desired him to adopt a different + and a more parsimonious system, if he wished to be quiet; alleging, + that his munificence exceeded that of his Imperial Majesty, which + was highly indecorous; but afterwards finding little attention was + paid to his injunction, he published a decree throughout the city, + that any one that should be found asking for, or receiving money + from Ali Bey, should have a very severe bastinado! After residing + some time at Marocco, he expressed a desire to visit the Atlas + mountains, which appear a few miles east of Marocco, but which are, + in fact, a whole day's journey; their immense size and height + making them to appear so much nearer than they really are. Ali Bey + apprehending the hostility of Alkaid Bushta, he procured an + imperial order to visit the Atlas, but Bushta opposed it, and would + not, he said, permit him, he being governor of Marocco, without + having himself directly from the Emperor a permission to that + purpose. He then represented to the Emperor the impolicy of + allowing him to go and examine that country; and the imperial order + was immediately countermanded. + + People now began to imagine that he was an agent of Bonaparte; and + their suspicion that he was a Christian spread far and near. It was +302 discovered also that he had corns on his feet, excrescences unknown + to Muselmen, whose shoes are made tight over the instep, and loose + over the toes, so that the latter being unconfined and at liberty, + they never have corns. + + Notwithstanding all these suspicions, the courtesy and suavity of + the manners of Ali Bey had such influence on the imperial mind, + that Muley Soliman gave him a beautiful garden to reside in, + wherein there was a (_koba_) pavilion. Ali Bey, finding his + influence considerable, erected with architectural taste several + edifices, suited, as he thought, to the imperial _gusto_, in which + he succeeded so well that his Imperial Majesty, when he returned + the next year to Marocco, resided almost exclusively in one of the + pavilions which he had erected. + + The splendour of the imperial favour did not however continue long; + for Ali Bey began now to be suspected by the Emperor himself, and + it was bruited that his renegadoes had acted treacherously towards + him. + + Ali Bey's knowledge of astronomy was peculiarly gratifying to the + Emperor. He could not altogether withdraw from him his attention. + The Emperor urged him to take unto himself a wife, and become an + useful member of society; but Ali objected, alleging various + motives for refusing. He was however at length prevailed on to + comply with the imperial injunction, and the Emperor gave him a +303 young girl to marry. It was anticipated that his new wife was a + political one, and would betray him to be an uncircumcised dog. The + wife, however, became extremely attached to him, and no information + could be procured from her to favour the plot that had been laid + for him. Various suspicions having increased respecting him, the + Emperor finally resolved that he should quit his territory; and an + order was issued that himself, his wife, and slaves should be + escorted to the port of L'Araich, and there embark for Europe. When + the military guard, however, had reached the port of L'Araich, the + boat being ready, Ali Bey was desired to embark, when, not + suspecting any stratagem, the boatmen pushed off, leaving his + disconsolate wife on the beach, bewailing his abrupt departure. The + lady appeared deeply affected with this sudden and unexpected + separation; and jumping out of the litter tore her dishevelled + hair, and distributed it to the winds, and with loud shrieks, which + pierced the air, demonstrated to him how sorely she lamented his + premature departure, and violent separation. His principal slave + was sold, by order of the Emperor's minister, to Seed Abdel'mjeed + Buhellel, a merchant of Fas, who was lately in London, and the + money was given to his wife. + + During his residence at Fas, he predicted an eclipse, and, having + foretold to the people of that city, that it would happen at such a +304 time, they waited for the event with considerable curiosity. Now + his knowledge of futurity had spread abroad with demonstrations of + amazement; the eclipse happened precisely at the time he had + predicted, which established his fame as an (_alem min alem_), a + man wiser than the wise. + + During the latter part of his residence in West Barbary, a report + prevailed that Bonaparte was preparing an immense army to invade + and subjugate the country. Ali Bey was not only suspected to be his + secret agent, but some persons were even ridiculous enough to + declare that he was Bonaparte himself in disguise; and accordingly + he was denominated _Parte_, for they would not add _Bona_, as that + word signifies good, in the _lingua franca_ of Barbary, and + Bonaparte, they said was not good, but a devil incarnate; so they + called him Parte. Last year I met in London the Moor who had + purchased Ali Bey's slave, and he told me that his son by the + before-mentioned wife lives at Fas; that he is a very amiable and + intelligent youth, about fifteen or sixteen years of age; and that + he is very poor, and would have starved, but for the charity and + protection of the highly respected fakeer of the city of Fas, Muley + Dris, under whose roof he resides, and is indebted to him for + protection and patronage. This man would be an acquisition to the + African Association, and means might be adopted to engage him in +305 their service to explore Sudan. + + _The Emperor's Attack of Diminet, in the Atlas_. + + The emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah levied a powerful army, and + took the field against Diminet, in the mountains of Atlas, east of + Marocco. The people of Diminet, and the territory of Berebbers, + east of that country, had also levied a strong force to defend + themselves. The Diminets were taken by surprise; for they had not + had intimation of an attack from Marocco. The Emperor himself, with + a few attendants disguised in the Berebber dress, advanced a few + miles ahead of the army. A party of mountaineers had received + orders from their sheik, (when the latter was informed that the + Emperor's army was coming against them,) to seek the Emperor, and + endeavour to kill him. They mistook the Emperor and his party for + Berebbers, as His Majesty spoke the language correctly, and had in + the early part of his life lived among them. "Where is the + Emperor's guard?" the mountaineers enquired; "for we are in search + of them: we hear he is coming to attack us, in our inaccessible + mountains; but we will be beforehand with him, and dispatch him + before he reaches us. Dost thou know where he is, or where his + guard is." "We do know," replied the Emperor; "for, about an hour + behind us, we passed a few men on horseback, among whom was the + Emperor; but the army is a long way behind: if you make speed, you + will soon pass him, and it will be an easy matter for you to put +306 the whole party to the sword, for they are not a dozen altogether." + The Berebbers, elated with this news, communicated from a party + whom they mistook for brethren of the neighbouring kabyl, rode off + at speed to seek their enemy, and in a short time found themselves + surrounded by the Emperor's army, who were scattered about in + ambush. These Berebbers were all secured, and were threatened with + torture if they would not discover where the army of their brethren + was, and what was their plan. The party discovered the plan and the + place of their encampment, which was not far off in recesses of the + mountain, and received a promise of remuneration if found correct. + By this discovery, the imperial army was enabled to surprise the + rebels; the latter were dispersed, and their houses burned. Thus + were they prevented from _harassing_ the Emperor's army, which is + their ordinary mode of warfare. To subjugate these people would be + impossible: it has often been attempted, but never succeeded. The + only lien the Emperor can get of them is, by having at court about + his person their sheik, whom he then makes answerable for the + obedience of the kabyl. + + _Moral Justice_. + + The imperial army being encamped in Temsena, on the confines of +307 Tedla, (see the map,) an Arab chieftain found that a friend of the + Emperor came into his _keyma_[192] at night, and took liberties + with his wife. The Arab suspected that he was (_shereef_) a prince, + and therefore did not dare to kill him, but preferred a complaint + to the Emperor. The Emperor was vexed to hear of such a gross + breach of hospitality, and asked what time he made his visits? "At + one hour after midnight," the Arab replied. Then, said the Emperor, + "when he comes, do you let me know by giving the watch-word to this + man, and he will then know what to do; and depend thou on my seeing + justice done to thee for the aggression." The marauder came; the + Arab repaired to the guard of the imperial tent, and gave the word; + the guard apprised the emperor, as he was directed, who personally + repaired to the tent of the Arab, and, being convinced of the fact, + ran the man through with his lance; this was done without a light. + The body was brought before the tent, and it was discovered to be + an officer of the imperial guard. The Emperor, on seeing that it + was not a shereef (a prince) prostrated himself in fervent prayer + for a considerable time. The courtiers who were all assembled by + this time to witness this extraordinary occurrence, wondered what + could induce the Emperor to be so fervent in prayer; which his + majesty observing, told them, "that he went alone to the tent, +308 thinking that nobody but a shereef would have dared to commit such + a breach of hospitality, in so open a manner; therefore he killed + him without having a light, lest, on discovering him to be a + prince, personal affection might give way to justice; but that when + he discovered that it was not a relation, he returned thanks to God + Almighty, that, in his determination to have justice administered, + he had not killed his own son!" + + [Footnote 192: _Keyma_ is the name for an Arab's tent; they are + made of goats' hair, and are black.] + + _Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers of Atlas_. + + March 10, 1797. The Sultan Soliman proceeds with a powerful army + against the warlike province of Shawiya, the rebellious Arabs' + retreat. The imperial army takes some of the women who are renowned + for personal charms. The army can get no food; and, being in danger + of starving, returns to Salee. The Arabs promise submission, in + hopes of having the women restored; but the Emperor's officers + violate them. The Arabs swear vengeance (_alia l'imin_[193]) by + their right hand. The emperor attacks them again, is repulsed, and + returns to Fas. + + [Footnote 193: _Alia l'imin_, swearing by the right hand, is a + sacred oath; and those who take it will not swerve from its + obligation, which is peremptory.] + + _Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans_. + + One of the Emperor's ministers, when an English fleet was cruising +309 off Salee, and just after some impost had been levied on the + merchandise already purchased and warehoused by the Christian + merchants, suggested the impolicy at that moment, of harsh measures + against Europeans: the Emperor, in a jocose manner, asked what harm + he could suffer from the fleets of Europeans? "They could destroy + your Imperial Majesty's ports," replied the minister. "Then I would + build them again for one-half what it would cost them to destroy + them. But if they dared to do that, I could retaliate, by sending + out my cruisers to take their trading ships, which would so + increase the premiums of insurance (for the (_kaffers_) infidels + insure all things on earth, trusting nothing to God[194]), that + they would be glad to sue for peace again." + + [Footnote 194: The Muhamedans abuse the Christians for their + mistrust of Providence, exemplified in their insuring ships, + merchandise, &c.] + + _Political Deception_. + + When an embassy is going to the Emperor, the alkaid of the escort + endeavours to make the present, which necessarily accompanies every + embassy, as bulky and conspicuous as possible, that the Arabs of + the kabyls through which they pass, may be dazzled and astounded + with the great appearance of the presents, which the alkaid + proclaims to consist chiefly of money, or treasure. The Arabs + accordingly observed, on Mr. Matra's (the British consul) presents, + that the English, who had conquered Bonaparte in Egypt, and were + masters of the ocean and seas, yet were tributary to the Sultan. + This idea is industriously propagated by the officers of the + Emperor's court. "Thinkest thou," they ohserved, "that these + Christians give such large presents with a free-will? Certainly + not! They are compelled to do so. The (_Romee_) Europeans are too + fond of money to give it away in such loads,--even the English, + thou seest, are tributary to the Seed." [195] + + [Footnote 195: A higher title among the _true Arabs_ than + Emperor: it implies conjointly, Emperor, Father of the People, + Protector, and Brother.] + + _Etiquette of the Court of Marocco_. + + The European commerce of Mogodor went to pay their respects to the + Emperor Seedi Muhamed, on his arrival, from Fas, at Marocco, as is + customary. The Emperor's son, Muley El Mamune, was master of the + audience, and ordered the commerce to advance into the imperial + presence; and standing barefooted, as is the custom before the + Emperor, he requested the merchants to take off their shoes, as + _he_ had done; but they expostulated, and said it was not their + custom. The Prince, however, stopped them, and would not allow them + to approach the imperial presence without first submitting to this + ceremony. Seedi Muhamed, observing the impediment, and knowing the +311 cause, but willing at the same time to initiate the young prince in + the custom of foreign countries, called his son to him, and said, + "What do muselmen do, when they enter the _Jamaa_?"[196] "Revere + the holy ground, by entering barefooted," replied the prince.--"And + what do the Christians, when they enter their church?"--"They take + off their hats," rejoined the Prince. (_Allah e berk Amer + Seedi_,[197]) "God bless your Majesty's life."--"Then, what would + you more of these my merchants, than that they pay me, even the + same respect that they pay when they pray to _Allah_. Let them + approach uncovered, with their shoes on, which they never take off, + but to go to bed to rest". + + [Footnote 196: An Arabic or Korannick word, signifying, the + congregation of prayer, or mosque.] + + [Footnote 197: A term invariably used at court, in addressing + the Emperor.] + + * * * * * + + The province of Ait Atter, or the Atterites, in Lower Suse, is + considered as an independent province, and it pays no tribute. They + have a great dislike to _kadis_[198], _talbs_, and attornies, + alleging that they only increase disputes between man and man, + which is not at all necessary; all disputes are, therefore, decided + by the sheik, who is not a logical wrangler, but decides according +312 to the simplest manner. The following decree of their sheik is on + record:-- + + "Four men conjointly bought a mule, which for elucidation, we will + call A, B, C, and D: each claimed a leg. D's leg was the off-hind + one. In a few days this leg began to swell: it was agreed to cure + it by (_el keeh_) burning it with a hot iron, (a common remedy in + this country.) This done, the mule was turned out, and went into a + field of barley. Some spark was attached to the hoof, and set fire + to the corn, which was consumed. The proprietors of the barley + applied to the sheik for justice; and A, B, C, and D, the owners of + the mule, were summoned to appear. The sheik, finding the leg which + caused the barley to be burnt, belonged to D, ordered him to pay + the value of the barley. D expostulated, and maintained that he had + no right to pay; for, if it had not been for A, B, and C's portions + of the mule, the barley would have remained. "How so?" replied the + sheik. "Because," quoth D, "the leg which belongs to me cannot + touch the ground; but it was brought to the corn-field by the legs + of A, B, and C, which were the efficient cause of the ignition of + the barley. The sheik reversed his decree, and ordered A, B, and C + to pay the damage, and D got off without expense. + + [Footnote 198: _Kadis_, i.e. judges. _Talbs_, i.e. record + writers. _Kadi_ is generally spelt by the Europeans of the + south _Cadi_, because they have no K in their alphabet: the + Arabs have no C; the letter is _Kaf_ or K, not C.] + +313 + _Customs of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas, viz. of Idaultit_ + (_in Lower Suse_.) + + The mountains of Idaultit are inhabited by a courageous and + powerful people, strict to their honour and word, unlike their + neighbours of Elala. They make verbal contracts between themselves, + and never go to law, or record their contracts or agreements, + trusting implicitly to each other's faith and honour. If a man goes + to this country to claim a debt due, he cannot receive it while + there, but must first leave the country, and trust to the integrity + of the Idaultitee, who will surely pay when convenient, but cannot + bear compulsion or restraint. They do not acknowledge any sultan, + but have a divan of their own, called _Eljma_, who settle all + disputes between man and man. These people cultivate the plains, + when there is no khalif in Suse; but when there is, they retire to + the fastnesses in their mountains, and defy the arm of power; + satisfying themselves with the produce of the mountains. + + _Connubial Customs_. + + The (_shereef_) Prince Muley Bryhim, son of the present Emperor + Soliman, was married to the daughter of the bashaw Abdrahaman ben + Nassar, who was powerful and rebellious, and prevented the Emperor + for some time from proceeding to the south. This couple was married +314 in 1803. The bashaw died the same year; and in 1805 she was + divorced, and sent by the Emperor to Mogodor, with orders to a + sheik of Shedma to marry her, it being considered a degradation for + a prince to be united to the daughter of a rebellious subject. This + happened in January, 1806. The widow of the late Prince Muley + Abdrahaman, who rebelled against his father, and who was elder + brother to the Emperor Soliman, has been recently sent by the + Emperor to Bu Azar, a negro bashaw, and governor of the city of + Terodant, in Suse, to marry her. These marriages are promoted by + the royal decree, to prevent the females from contaminating the + royal blood by illicit connection, if they remain divorced, without + a new husband. + + _Political Duplicity_. + + A fakeer having interceded in behalf of a state prisoner, his + friend, who was confined in the island of Mogodor (the state prison + of the empire, except for princes, who are sent to Tafilelt), the + Emperor assured him he would release him; and urged the fakeer to + proceed to Mogodor, and wait there his Majesty's arrival. The + fakeer departed, and soon after his arrival at Mogodor, he learned + that the Emperor was not going there; but the alkaid of Mogodor + showed him a letter from the Emperor, ordering him to retain the + prisoner in safe keeping, and not attend to what the fakeer should + say. This system of breaking engagements and promises, is too often +315 denominated policy. "Dost thou think I am a Christian," said an + emperor to a prince who was expostulating with him for not + fulfilling his engagements,--"Dost thou think I am a Christian, to + be a slave to my word?" + + Senor P. a Spanish merchant, received a letter from the Emperor, + directed to the (_alkaid_) governor of Rabat, ordering him to show + Senor P. every attention, and to assist him if he should be + desirous of establishing a house at Rabat. Senor P. left the court + at Mequinas, well satisfied with his letter; but a few days after + his arrival, the alkaid told him he must embark and quit the + country in twenty-four hours, by the Emperor's order, which he + showed to Senor P. who could read Arabic. He was obliged to embark + immediately. + + _Etiquette of Language at the Court of Marocco_. + + If the Emperor should enquire about any person that has recently + died, it is not the etiquette to mention the word "death,"--a + muselmen is supposed never to die;--the answer is _Ufah Ameruh_, + "his destiny is closed," or "he has completed his destiny." To + which the following answer is invariably given--_Allah e Erhammoh_, + "God be merciful to him." If a Jew's death is announced to any + muselman prince, fakeer, or alkaid, the expression is, _Maat hashak + asseedi_, "He is dead, Sir." _Ashak_ is an Arabic idiom, the exact + meaning of which cannot easily be conveyed in English; but it may +316 be assimilated to--"Pardon me for mentioning in your presence a + name contemptible or gross (as Jew)." Thus, for further elucidation + to the enquirer after the peculiarities of language, _Kie 'tkillem + ma el Kaba hashak asseedi_,--"He is talking with a prostitute--your + pardon, Sir, for the grossness of the expression." + + If a man goes to the alkaid, to make a complaint against any one + for doing any indecent act, and in relating the circumstance he + omits the word _hashak asseedi_, the persons present will interrupt + him thus,--_Kul hashak b'adda_, "Say _hashak_ before you proceed." + Blood, dung, dirt, pimp, procuress, prostitute, traitor, &c. &c. + are words that (in correct company) are invariably followed by the + qualifying word _hashak_. + + If a Christian is dead, the expression is _Mat el kaffer, or Mat el + karan, or Mat bel karan_, "The infidel is dead, the cuckold, or + the son of a cuckold is dead." + + _Food_. + + _Kuscasoe_ is, flour moistened with water, and granulated with the + hand to the size of partridge-shot. It is then put into a steamer + uncovered, under which fowls, or mutton, and vegetables, such as + onions, and turnips, are put to boil: when the steam is seen to + pass through the _kuscasoe_ it is taken off and shook in a bason, + to prevent the adhesion of the grains; and then put in the steamer + again, and steamed a second time. When it is taken off, some +317 butter, salt, pepper, and saffron, are mixed with it, and it is + served up in a large bowl. The top is garnished with the fowl or + mutton, and the onions and turnips. When the saffron has made it + the colour of straw, it has received the proper quota. This is, + when properly cooked, a very palatable and nutritious dish. + + _Hassua_ is gruel boiled, and then left over the fire two hours. It + is made with barley not ground into flour, but into small particles + the size of sparrow-shot. It is a very salubrious food for + breakfast, insomuch that they have a proverb which intimates that + physicians need never go to those countries wherein the inhabitants + break their fast with _hassua_. + + _El Hasseeda_ is barley roasted in an earthen pan, then powdered in + a mortar, and mixed with cold water, and drank. This is the + travelling food of the country--of the Arab, the Moor, the + Berebber, the Shelluh, and the Negro; and is universally used by + travellers in crossing the Sahara: the Akkabas that proceed from + Akka and Tatta to Timbuctoo, Houssa, and Wangara, are always + provided with a sufficient quantity of this simple restorative to + the hungry stomach. + + _The Woled Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the + Plains of Marocco_. + + This populous, powerful, and valiant kabyl, during the former part + of the reign of the Sultan Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of +318 the present Emperor Soliman, occupied the plains west of the city + of Marocco (being an emigration from the Bedouin tribe of the same + name in the Sahara); but their depredatory disposition made + travelling through their territory unsafe; wherefore the Emperor, + after endeavouring in vain to make an example of them, issued a + decree that they should all to a man leave his dominions, and they + were driven by his army out of their country to the south, and + entered the Sahara. The whole kabyl was thus outlawed, so that they + were plundered and killed as they passed through the plains of + Fruga, Ait Musie, Haha, and Suse, by the natives of those countries + respectively. Not half the number that emigrated, (which was some + thousands,) reached the original clan in the Sahara. + + _The Koran, called also El Kateb el Aziz_. + + The word Koran conveys the same signification as _Bible_: it means + "the reading" or "the book;"--_kora_, "to read; "_el Kateb el + Aziz_, i.e. "the dear or beloved book," meaning thereby the + _Koran_. + + _Arabian Music_. + + The Sultan Seedi Muhamed, after hearing the musical band of the + Marquis de Vialli, ambassador from Venice, expressed his + gratification at the music of the Italians, and laconically + observed that it possessed more harmony than that of any other + nation, excepting his own. +319 + _Sigin Messa_. (_Sigilmessa_.) + + The country of Sigin Messa, called in the maps Sigilmessa, was the + state prison of the kingdom of Suse, when it formed a part of the + empire of Muley el Monsore, in the twelfth century of the Christian + era. Messa, a port in Suse, was then a large city, and the capital + of the kingdom of Suse. The state prisoners were sent to a place of + safe keeping, which was east of Tafilelt, and was therefore called + Sigin Messa, i.e. the prison of Messa. + + _Mungo Park at Timbuctoo_. + + In the month of March, 1806, a letter was received at Mogodor by + Seedi L'Abes Buhellal Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo. + This letter was in Arabic, and the following is an extract + literally translated from it by myself:-- + + "A boat arrived a few days since from the West at Kabra, having two + or three Christians in it. One was (_rajel kabeer_) a tall man, who + stood erect in the boat, which displayed (_shinjuk bied_) a white + flag. The inhabitants of Kabra did not, however, understand the + signal to be emblematic of peace, and no one went to the boat, + although it remained at anchor before Kabra the whole day, till + night. In the morning it was gone." + +320 _Troglodytae_. + + The Shelluhs of the Atlas, south-east of Santa Cruz, in Suse, + during the rainy season, from November till February inclusive, + live in caves and excavations in the rocks and earth; laying up + provisions sufficient for that period, until the snow begins to + melt. The Berebbers of North Atlas have followed the same custom + from time immemorial. + + _Police of West Barbary_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne, he gave indefatigable + attention to the police. He wished, he said, to make the roads safe + for travellers, from the Desert, or Sahara, to the shores of the + Mediterranean. He was vigilant in discovering thefts, and rigorous + in punishing them. If any one was robbed, he had only to report it + to the Emperor, who would forthwith order the douar where the + robbery was committed to restore the sum stolen, and to pay a fine + to the treasury of the same amount. By adhering strictly to this + system, he improved the revenue, and made travelling perfectly + safe; so that one may travel now (1805), without danger, with + property or money, from one end of the empire to the other. Before + this system of policy was renewed, (for it is an old law of the + land,) travellers with property were obliged to have a _statta_: + thus, if a caravan was going from Terodant or Marocco to Fas, it + took a _statta;_ that is, two men, natives of the district of +321 Rahamena, who accompanied the caravan in safety to the confines of + their territory; they then received a remuneration, and delivered + over the caravan to two men of Abda, who conducted it to the border + of Duquella: it was then delivered into the hands of two Duquella + Arabs; and so it went through the different provinces till it + reached Fas, under the protection, through each province, of a + _statta_, each of which _statta_ receives a remuneration. So that, + by the time of arrival at Fas, the merchandise was sometimes + subject to a charge of 8 or 10 per cent. for _statta_ or convoy + through the various provinces. + + Before the Emperor Soliman thus established his authority, caravans + of gums, almonds, ostrich feathers, gold-dust, &c. &c. from Suse, + were sometimes twenty days going from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, a + distance of less than one hundred miles, the _statta_ being changed + and paid at the entrance of every kabyl, of which there are twelve + in the province of Haha alone; the camels being also changed at + every change of _statta_, increased the charge on the merchandise + to an immoderate amount. It would be a great acquisition to + England, if His Majesty were to negociate with the Emperor of + Marocco for the port of Santa Cruz; for the province of Suse + produces in abundance olive oil, almonds, and gums; worm-seed, + annis-seed, cummin-seed, and orchilla; oranges, grapes, + pomegranates, figs, melons, &c. This port was farmed, during the + reign of Muley Ismael, for an annual stipend. It is the key to +322 Sudan, and a communication might be opened on an extensive scale + from hence with Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and other regions of + Sudan, so as to supply, in a few years, the whole of the interior + of Africa with British and East-India manufactures. + + _Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed_. + + This prince, who was elder brother of the present Emperor Soliman, + had accumulated considerable treasure in executing the office of + (_khalif_) viceroy of the provinces of Duquella, Abda, and Shedma. + His father, jealous of his son's power, when supported by a command + of treasure, had recourse to the usual means of transferring it to + the imperial treasury. It is held as law in this country, that + little is sufficient for every purpose of life. When property + becomes accumulated, it is alleged that more than a sufficiency is + derogatory of the principles laid down in the Koran, and ought to + revolve to the national treasury, there to be deposited as a fund + in reserve against the invasion of the country by the Europeans, an + event, which they are quite sure, from an ancient tradition, will + happen at no very distant period. + + Abdrahaman, however, equally avaricious with his father, objected + to deliver up his treasure; which so irritated the Sultan, that he + ordered a party of his negro soldiers to go to the Prince's house + and seize every thing valuable. These men, in their thirst for + plunder, out-ran their discretion, as it appears; for they +323 proceeded to examine the ladies in the Horem, putting their base + hands on their persons, under the pretence of discovering if they + had concealed their jewels and gold. This outrage roused the + Prince's indignation and he lost no time in absenting himself for + ever from his father's dominions, for this insult on his + dignity.--"If my father," said the Prince, "had taken my treasure, + it would have passed from my hands to his; but to permit the + ignoble hands of slaves to offer me such an indignity, is more than + I can or will suffer." Abdrahaman therefore emigrated to the + province of Lower Suse, on the confines of Sahara, where he + remained encamped, ready, upon any alarm, at a moment's notice, to + penetrate into the Desert. He had always two _heiries_ ready + saddled at the gate of his (_keyma_) tent; one for carrying his + treasure, viz. gold dust and jewels, and the other for himself to + ride, on any emergency. Many fakeers were sent from the Sultan to + the Prince; with the most solemn assurances of his reconciliation, + and with urgent solicitations to him to return; but the Prince + never forgave or forgot the insult. + + _Anecdote of Muley Ismael_. + + Muley Ismael compared his subjects to a bag full of rats.--"If you + let them rest," said the warrior, "they will gnaw a hole in it: +324 keep them moving, and no evil will happen." So his subjects, if + kept continually occupied, the government went on well; but if left + quiet, seditions would quickly arise. This sultan was always in the + tented-field: he would say, that he should not return to his palace + until the tents were rotten. He kept his army incessantly occupied + in making plantations of olives, or in building: rest and rebellion + were with him synonymous terms. + + Before the Portuguese transplanted their African colonies to South + America, they had penetrated far into West Barbary; they frequently + made incursions into the country from Mazagan to Marocco, and + eastward of that city. They had a church near Diminet, on the + declivity of the Atlas, about thirty-five miles east of Marocco, + which is still existing: it is a kind of sanctuary; the Berebbers + say it is haunted; they will not approach it. There is said to be + an inscription on the building in Roman characters, over the + entrance; but I never could ascertain what it is. + + _Library at Fas_. + + When the present Emperor came to the throne there was a very + extensive and valuable library of Arabic manuscripts at Fas, + consisting of many thousand volumes. Some of the more intelligent + literary Moors are acquainted with events that happened formerly, +325 during the time of the Roman power, which Europeans do not possess. + Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, was perfectly acquainted + with Livy and Tacitus, and had read those works from the library at + Fas. It is more than probable that the works of these authors, as + well as those of many other Romans and Greeks, are to be found + translated into the Arabic language, in the hands of private + individuals in West and in South Barbary. This library was + dispersed at the accession of Muley Soliman, and books commenting + on the Koran only were retained; the rest were burned or dispersed + among the natives. + + _Deism_. + + Deism was very prevalent throughout the empire. When the present + Emperor Soliman came to the throne, the deists went about in large + numbers, exclaiming, _La Allah ila Allah_, "There is no God but + God." The Emperor soon silenced these people, by proclaiming that + if any should be found uttering this truth, without adding, + "Muhamed is his prophet," should ([199]_ekul lassah_) be beat. The + sect soon disappeared. + + [Footnote 199: This punishment is inflicted by two men, one on + each side; the culprit is stretched naked on the ground, and + beat on the back unmercifully, with sticks two yards long, and + as thick as a finger.] + +326 + _Muhamedan Loyalty_. + + An alkaid of a district in the province of Abda, when that province + submitted to the Emperor, went to His Majesty, taking with him the + fruit of his government, viz. 100,000 dollars. He prostrated + himself before the Emperor, and announced that he had brought this + money to the Muselman treasury, being what he had collected since + the death of the Emperor's father. "I have lived splendidly, and + have never wanted any thing, or I should have brought Your Majesty + much more treasure." "You have been," said the Emperor, "a faithful + servant, and you shall be rewarded." He was promoted to a + government, and had many opportunities of refunding his loss. A + large sum was returned to him for his fidelity. + + _Cairo_. + + The city of El Kahira is called by Europeans Cairo. When Kairo was + founded, in the 359th year of the Hejra, the planet Mars was in + ascension; and it is Mars who conquers the universe: "therefore," + said Moaz, (the son of El Mansor) to _his_ son, "I have given it + the name of El-Kahira."[200] + + [Footnote 200: El Kahira is the Arabic for the planet Mars, and + signifies _victorious_.] +327 + _Races of Men constituting the Inhabitants of West and South + Barbary, and that Part of Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt and Sejin + Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the Territories of the present + Emperor of Marocco_. + + _The Moors_, who inhabit the towns on the coast, and the cities of + Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, and Terodant; who speak a corrupt Arabic + language. + + _The Berebbers_, who appear to be the Aborigines, and who retain + precisely the same character that was anciently given of the + Mauritanians by Sallust. These people inhabit the mountains of + Atlas, north of the city of Marocco, and have a language peculiar + to themselves. They are a hardy race of warriors, as artful as they + are indefatigable in war; when attacked by the imperial troops, + they defend themselves valiantly; and, by stratagem and device, + often surprise and defeat the Emperor's best troops, the _abeed + Seedy Bukaree_. They call the Negro and Arab troops of the Emperor, + (_maden el grudder_), a mine of deceit, and never trust to their + vows and promises, even if they swear by the Koran. They are a + restless turbulent race, and have never been conquered. They have + adopted the Muhamedan doctrines. + + _The Shelluhs_, or inhabitants of the Atlas, who dwell in houses in + the mountains south of Marocco, in the province of Haha, and in +328 part of Suse. These are a weaker race, not so athletic and robust + as the Berebbers. Their language has been represented to be similar + to that of the Berebbers, but that is evidently a mistake; I have + travelled through their country, and through the country of the + Berebbers, and have conversed with hundreds, nay, I may say, with + thousands of them: I have no hesitation in declaring them to be a + different race. Their language, costume, and habits differ; the + Shelluhs, however, possess the same art and duplicity with the + Berebbers. + + _The Arabs_, who live in _douars_ of tents, and inhabit the immense + plains west of the Atlas, are the agriculturists of the country. + They form the principal population of this terrestrial paradise; + they are for the most part emigrations from the Sahara, several + centuries ago, and speak the true Arabic language. These are a fine + race of men, possessing, in a superlative degree, some of the + noblest qualities of the human race. To these may be added + + _The Jews_, who wear a distinguishing costume, and a black cap; + they are all engaged in trade, and form one-seventh of the + population of the walled habitations. They are held in great + contempt, and are treated very rudely by the Arabs, and therefore + are seldom met with among the encampments of that people. + + A _douar_ is a village of tents; these tents are made of goats' and + camels' hair; they are made by the females, are of a close texture, +329 extremely warm, and impervious to the rain: thus they are cool in + the summer, and warm in the rainy season. In countries exposed to + the attacks of neighbouring kabyles, they are arranged in a + circular form, covering sometimes several acres of ground, having a + large keyma or Arab tent in the centre of the circle, which serves + for a _jamma_, or meeting for morning and evening prayers, and at + other times for an _emdursa_, or seminary, where the Muhamedan + youth are taught to read the Koran, and to write, as they call it, + (_Sultan men Elsen_) the sultan of languages, or language of + languages. The tent-pegs of the respective tents are indented + within each other, so that the cattle cannot go out or in; + moreover, a hedge of thorny bushes encircles the whole, secured by + staves drove into the ground. The camels, horses, mules, horned + cattle, sheep, and goats, are all inclosed in a division of the + circular area during the night, and a fire is kept all night, to + keep off the lions and wild beasts. The incessant barking of dogs, + which are very numerous among the Arabs, prevent the travellers + unaccustomed to these habitations from sleeping. + + _Various Modes of Intoxication_. + + All nations have some method of getting rid of reason, for the + purpose of indulging in the vacuum and temporary independence + produced by intoxication. We, of Europe, have recourse to wine to + effect this purpose: the opulent indulge in the libations of +330 claret, burgundy, and champagne; the middling classes have recourse + to brandy, rum, and gin; but the African effects this purpose at + far less expense. A muselman procures ample temporary relief from + worldly care for a mere trifle: he buys at the (_attara_), drug + shop, for a penny, a small pipe of _el keef or hashisha_; this + completely effects his purpose. The leaves of this drug, which is a + kind of hemp, are called _el hashisha_; the flower of the plant is + called _el keef_, and is much more powerful in its inebriating + quality than the _hashisha_, but a pipe of the latter will have as + powerful an effect as two or three bottles of wine. It is said, + that when the patient is under the influence of pleasant + imaginations, the fume of this drug increases the sensation into + the most pleasing delirium, engendering the most luxuriant images, + and promoting a voluptuous vacuum. But when the person's ill fate + tempts him to taste it in a melancholy mood, it protracts the + gloomy moments, and gives the woes of life a longer duration: he + utters sighs and lamentations, he apprehends nothing but misery and + misfortune, till the effect of the drug is exhausted, and he awakes + from his dream of woe. + + _Division of Agricultural Property_. + + Agricultural property is ascertained by a large stone laid at each + corner of a plantation of corn, a direct line is drawn from stone +321 to stone at the season of reaping; it has, perhaps, never been + known, that these partitions have been removed for the purpose of + encroachment; a mutual confidence, and a point of honour renders + this mode of discriminating the respective property of individuals + adequate to every purpose of hedge or ditch. + + _Mines_. + + The mountains that separate the province of Suse from that of + Draha, abound in iron, copper, and lead. Ketiwa, a district on the + declivity of Atlas, east of Terodant, contains also mines of lead + and brimstone; and saltpetre also, of a superior quality, abounds + in the neighbourhood of Terodant. In the same mountains, about + fifty or sixty miles south-west of Terodant, there are mines of + iron of a very malleable quality, equal to that of Biscay in Spain, + from which the people of Tagrasert manufacture gun-barrels, equal + to those made in Europe. At Elala in Suse, in the same ridge of + mountains, are several rich mines of copper, some of which are + impregnated with gold: they have also a rich silver mine, the metal + of which latter is cast in round lumps, weighing two or three + ounces each piece. I have bought of this silver at Santa Cruz, and + have paid Spanish dollars for it, weight for weight; it is very + pure. Mines of antimony and lead ore are also found in Suse, +332 impregnated with gold, some specimens of which I sent to England to + be analyzed; but being informed that it yielded gold sufficient + only to pay the expenses of purifying, I gave no farther attention + to it, although I have had reason to think, since then, that an + importation of the ore would amply pay the importer. + + _Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, called by the Arabs + Butelleese; and its Remedy_. + + During my residence at Santa Cruz, I had a cousin with me who was + afflicted with this disorder. When the sun sat his blindness came + on, and continued till the rising sun. This youth was so afflicted, + during a month, with this disorder, that he could scarcely see his + way with a candle in his hand, so that it was quite painful to see + him groping about. An Arab of the Woled Abbusebah Kabyl, who retain + much of the science and art of their ancestors, and whose + prosperity I had promoted at Santa Cruz, by facilitating his + commercial adventures, communicated to me a simple remedy for this + disorder; I put no faith in it, for it was so simple that I was + disposed to think it an illusion. He called on me, however, + repeatedly, and finding I had not applied it, he brought it one + morning himself, and urged me to try it, I did so; and that same + evening the eyes of the youth were almost well, and his sight was +333 completely restored the following night. This ophthalmic affection, + in an Arabic translation of Hippocrates, is called _Butelleese;_ + another translation of ancient date calls it _Shebkeret:_ the name, + however, by which it is known at the present day in Africa, is + _Butelleese:_ the Latins called it _Lusciosus_, which word denotes + precisely the disease, viz. one who sees imperfectly in the morning + and evening twilight, but whose vision is clear at broad day-light. + _Lusciosus ad lucernam non videt. Vesperi non videre quos lusciosos + appellant_. Plaut. Mil. Gl. ii. 3. + + This ophthalmia has been by some denominated _hen-blindness_, from + the circumstance of hens' eyes being thus affected, when they are + unable to see to pick up small grains in the dusk of the evening. I + have frequently seen fowls thus affected soon after going to sea, + from the coast of Africa, after which they decline and grow sick. A + quantity of small gravel should be spread in their coops at sea, + which prevents this disorder, and will sometimes cure it. At the + commencement of this complaint, the circumstance that first engages + the patient's attention is the dimness of his eye-sight at + twilight: the nocturnal dimness of vision was such, in the instance + before-mentioned, that the youth could scarcely see, even with a + candle in his hand, which he described, as seen by him, as if it + were misty, or as glimmering in a thick fog. There was no external + disfiguration visible in the eyes, but they appeared as usual. +334 + What the cause of this disorder was I am unable to say; but I have + often suspected that it was contracted from the shining of the sun + on the white terras of the house where my cousin used to go of a + morning to shoot _tibeebs_, a bird somewhat resembling the European + sparrow. This youth was rather of a weak or delicate constitution. + I did not repeat the above remedy, as the boy's eyes continued + well, without any defect in the vision at any time of the day or + night, till seven-and-twenty days had elapsed, when the disorder + returned. I procured the remedy again, and he took it; it had the + same effect as before; he took it again, and then continued well + for a month. It again returned a third time, and was cured by one + single administration, after which it entirely disappeared, and + never returned. Some time after this, I was informed that the + British fleet in the Mediterranean was affected with this disorder; + that one-tenth, or more, of the crews of our ships had laboured + under it; and, on my return to England, I was urged to represent to + His Majesty's ministers, that I had an infallible remedy for the + disorder. I was referred to Doctor Harness, of the Transport Board. + I waited on the Doctor, and afterwards corresponded with him. He + appeared very desirous of knowing the remedy; but he was not at + liberty to grant me any remuneration for it. I, however, offered to + discover it, on being reimbursed the sum which the remedy cost me, +335 on experimental proof being produced of its infallibility; which + proposition was rejected by the Transport Board in August, 1812, + who informed me at the same time, that the Lords Commissioners of + the Admiralty did not judge proper to grant the sum required by me + for the discovery of the remedy for Nyctalopia, which, I should + add, was between 500_l_. and 600_l_. The remedy, therefore, remains + a secret to this day. + + A celebrated electrician and galvanist having conversed with me + lately respecting this remedy for Nyctalopia, suggested to me the + probability, that the same remedy might be effectual also in _gutta + serena_, as both those disorders are known to proceed from a defect + in the optic nerve. This opinion he corroborated, by quoting, in + confirmation of it, the opinion of a well-known author. The + electrician perceiving my incredulity, or more properly, my + ignorance of the wonderful connection that exists between the + intestines and the head, was prompted, as I verily believe, by a + philanthropic disposition; and actually proved to me, + experimentally, the influence which the eyes have on the + intestines, and _vice versa_. A patient with a _gutta serena_, who + had been, as he informed me, twelve months under the hands of a + celebrated oculist, was recommended by the latter, as a last + resource, to try galvanism. He had received no benefit whatever + whilst under the direction of the oculist above alluded to, but his + intestines were intolerably deranged by the effects of the mercury +336 which he had taken. This gentleman galvanised his eyes, and the + man, who is a gunsmith, told me, that when he first went to have + the operation performed, he could not see the red border round the + hearth-rug in the front parlour, but when he returned into that + room, after having been galvanised, he assured me he saw it + plainly. He moreover declared that his bowels had been, and then + were, in a very deranged state, from the effects of the mercury + which he had taken, but that he felt incredible relief after having + been galvanised, and that, two or three days afterwards, they were + quite restored to health and strength. Being thus satisfied with + the influence that so wonderfully exists between the intestines and + the eyes, I am now making arrangements with the same gentleman, to + administer the remedy for the benefit, _as we hope_, of patients + afflicted with _gutta serena_. But I now declare to the public a + third time, that the remedy is simple, safe, and effectual, and + that I am ready and desirous of administering it to any one who may + choose to apply for it, who is afflicted with the disorder, with my + positive assurances, that it will effect a cure in eight-and-forty + hours at the utmost, but probably in twenty-four. + + _Vaccination._ + + Intelligence received from West Barbary was instrumental in +337 promoting the adoption of vaccination. In the latter years of the + last century, the small-pox pervaded West and South Barbary. Mr. + Matra, the British consul-general to the Empire of Marocco, wrote + to me at that period officially, to procure him every information + possible, and to inform him if I could discover if cattle in this + country were subject to the small-pox. I made every inquiry without + delay, and I reported to His Excellency, (who was ambassador as + well as consul), that I had ascertained that the horses, mules, + asses, and oxen were subject in this country to the small-pox, of + which there could be no doubt, as the name given to the disorder in + the beasts of the field, was the same as that which designated the + small-pox in the human species, viz. JEDRIE. In consequence of this + information, confirmed afterwards by other enquiries, His + Excellency wrote to England on the subject, and, I believe, sent + some vaccine pus home; soon after which Dr. Jenner began his + experiments on vaccine inoculation, which have since been adopted + throughout Europe, and in great part of Asia and America. Although + I was thus instrumental in the propagation of vaccine inoculation, + yet I never asked for or received any remuneration; but I feel a + satisfaction in having been thus instrumental of good to mankind, + in this new and eligible system of inoculation, by means of which + human life has been preserved; for, according to Sir Gilbert +338 Blane's late statement, 23,134 lives have been saved during the + last 15 years by vaccination. + + _Game_. + + All kinds of game are plentiful in South and in West Barbary; viz. + _el gror_, a bird somewhat similar to the English partridge, but + unknown in Europe. I shot some of these birds for Doctor Brussonet, + the naturalist, who was intendant of the national garden of botany + at Montpelier, which that gentleman prepared in the oven, and sent + to the National Institute at Paris. He informed me this bird was a + non-descript. Hares, antelopes, woodcocks, snipes, plovers, + bustards. There is an abundance of partridges, red ducks as large + as geese, ducks, wigeon, and teal; curlews, in immense quantities, + are found in the flat parts of the country on the coast; immense + quantities of doves, wild pigeons, wood-pigeons, and large + sand-larks. Every person is at liberty to shoot; but the princes + and the great, consider field-sports beneath their dignity, except + hawking, and hunting the wild boar, the lion, and the tiger. The + Muhamedans do not prefer game to other food. When they have shot a + bird, they immediately cut its throat, that the blood may flow + freely; otherwise it is not lawful to eat it. Game is never seen in + the public markets. When they shoot for Europeans, they dispense + with the ceremony of cutting the throat of the game. They reproach + the Christians for eating such food, which they call (_m'jeefa_) + "strangled." +339 + _Agriculture.--Mitferes._ + + The agriculturists, in all the Arab provinces throughout this + empire, have subterraneous caverns or apartments, generally in the + form of a cone, for the preservation of their corn during a + scarcity or famine. During my residence in this country, I have + investigated the method, and have learned the art of constructing + these depositories of grain. They season them before the corn is + deposited. They should not be constructed in a clay soil. In these + _mitferes_, throughout the Arab provinces of Duquella, Temsena, + Shawiya, &c. they preserve the corn sound during thirty years. I + have been present at the opening of them after the corn had been + deposited twenty-one years. It was perfectly sound. When these + depositories are opened, each family takes a portion of the grain, + so as to distribute the whole immediately; otherwise, in a few + months, if not consumed, it acquires a peculiar bad flavour, which + is called the _mitfere_ _twang_. To prevent this, an Arab, on + opening one of these depositaries, lends corn to all his + neighbours, and in his turn he receives it back again, when they + respectively open theirs. It is unnecessary to expatiate on the + expediency of constructing _mitferes_ in a country oftentimes + visited by locusts, the plague, drought, or inundation. There would + be a manifest policy in establishing similar granaries in our +340 colony in South Africa, where I understand they are visited by + locusts, and where the soil is similar to that of West and South + Barbary. All the valuable gums that Barbary now supplies Europe + with, and also many articles of commerce not yet known at the Cape, + might be procured from Barbary, and if transplanted to that colony, + would undoubtedly thrive, from the similarity of climate and soil. + + _Laws of Hospitality_. + + The territory of the Emperor of Marocco, west of the mountains of + Atlas, and from the shores of the Mediterranean to the confines of + the Shelluh province of Haha, is one continual corn-field, + inhabited by Arabs living in douars or encampments: much of the + ground, however, lies fallow. These encampments are fixed generally + at a considerable distance from the track of travellers, so that a + person unacquainted with this circumstance, would be disposed to + imagine the country thinly inhabited. The tents in safe countries, + where there is no fear of wild beasts, are pitched in a straight + line; but where lions or other ferocious animals are found, the + tents are disposed in a circular form; and thorny bushes are placed + round the douar, to prevent the visits of these unwelcome guests. + The Arabs are the agriculturists of the country, and are for the + most part emigrations from the original stock in Sahara. These + people have preserved from time immemorial the practice of open and +341 unrestrained hospitality. Their prophet confirmed these + propensities; and hospitality has been ever since, the predominant + virtue of the Arab. Accordingly, Muhamedans are entitled, through + their various journeys, to be entertained three days wherever they + sojourn. A traveller, therefore, when he chooses to rest from the + fatigue of his journey, goes to one of these douars and exclaims + (_Deef Allah_) "the guests of God." The sheik then comes forth from + his tent to receive him or them: (_Kheyma Deaf_) the travellers' or + guests' tent is appropriated to the stranger; food is brought to + him, agreeably to his rank in life, but always simple, good, and + wholesome. Here he may remain, if he chooses, for three days, + without being considered an intruder, and free of all expense + whatsoever. If he wishes to exceed the three days allowed by the + Muhamedan law, he must prove his poverty; which being done, he may + be entertained for a further period of time: but this latter is + quite optional; no man is compelled to entertain and provide food + for strangers and travellers, without remuneration, above three + days. + + This hospitality extends not generally to all mankind, but to + Muhamedans only. A Christian or a Jew would be expected to pay a + trifle for his entertainment; although, in travelling through the + province of Suse, the Arabs have absolutely refused to take any + remuneration from me; but, that is not generally the case, nor +342 ought such conduct to be expected: in the instances + before-mentioned, these people considered themselves so much + benefited by the opening of the port of Santa Cruz, that they + thought they could not do enough for me. I was, therefore, every + where received in that province with the most cordial marks of + disinterested hospitality. + + The laws of hospitality are sacred and inviolable. This I will + elucidate, by relating a circumstance that happened while I was at + Marocco. The Emperor was dissatisfied with the conduct of four + sheiks of Suse: they had not discharged the duties of their public + vocation, but had abused their office; the Emperor had issued + orders to arrest them, but by some means they got intelligence of + the orders; they therefore immediately ordered their horses, and + decamped in the evening from Marocco: they knew they should not be + safe any where from the Emperor's grasp, but under the protection + of the Khalif Muhamed ben Delemy, whom, however, they had in some + manner injured; nevertheless, knowing the noble character of the + man, they were resolved to try their fate; accordingly, they made + haste to reach the gates of his castle in Shtuka, before the + Emperor might discover their departure. They arrived, and + exclaiming _Deef Allah_, they were admitted. Delemy told them, that + although they had not behaved friendly to him, he would protect + them. His gates, he said, were always open to the children of +343 adversity, and they might depend on his protection. The Emperor + soon discovered, by diligent enquiry, what route they had taken, + and His Imperial Majesty urged Delemy to deliver them up; but the + latter expostulated, and observing that he should not deserve the + name of an Arabian sheik, if he degraded himself by giving up those + who had claimed his protection, in his own country: and he actually + granted them protection several months; till, at length, finding + they could not escape the hand of power, by any plan but that of + going into the Sahara, Delemy agreed to see them safe out of the + Emperor's dominions, and accompanied them to Akka, and beyond that + place, till they reached the Sahara, where, being perfectly safe, + he took his leave of them, and they exchanged _Salems_. + + _Punishment for Murder._ + + If a man commits murder, the friends of the murdered claim redress + of the alkaid, if in a town,--of the bashaw of the province, if in + the country. If the murderer is discovered, he is taken into + custody, to suffer death, unless the relations of the murdered man + choose to compromise with the relations of the murderer: in which + case, a sum of money is paid to the former, and the matter is thus + settled. + + _Insolvency Laws._ + + An insolvent cannot be detained in prison after his insolvency is + ascertained. He gives up his property to his creditors; but if he +344 should afterwards become a man of substance, his creditors can + claim the amount of their debts, deducting what they have already + received. + + _Dances_. + + The dances of the Arabs are peculiar to themselves. The youths + dance without females, and the females without youths. On all + marriages and rejoicings, music and dancing continue till the dawn + of day. Among the encampments of Arabs, in the summer season, the + whole country, at night, is in a blaze of light. The kettle-drum, + the triangle, the shepherd's pipe, and the _erbeb_ an instrument + resembling the fiddle, with two strings, form the band of music. + + The youths form a double row of six or eight in each, and carry + themselves erect, with their arms hanging down close to their side; + moving obliquely to the right, then to the left, without taking + their feet from the ground, but moving their heels, then their toes + on the ground, advancing or gliding slowly along; keeping exact + time with the music: they then vault in the air, perform somersets + and various feats of agility. They sing also with great taste and + judgment, and some of them have excellent voices, being selected + for the purpose of affording entertainment to the spectators. The + ladies dance also in a similar manner, but without the vaulting and + somersets. They have a very elegant shawl-dance, which some of them + dance with great taste, and with much graceful movement. +345 + _Circumcision._ + + The circumcision of male children is the general practice of + Islaemism; it is also used among some of the[201] _Khaffers_ or + _Cafers_ of North, Central, and South Africa. Circumcision is not a + practice ascribed to a principle of cleanliness, or any other + cause, but ancient usage. The period of performing this operation + among the Arabs is at the age of eight years. + + [Footnote 201: _Khaffer_ (singular number) is an Arabic term, + applied to all who are not Muhamedans; all Pagans, Jews, and + Christians, are called _Khaffer_, _K'fer_ (plural) _Kaffir + billa_, an atheist: hence Caffraria, the name of the country + near the Cape of Good Hope.] + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz._ + + Transport of ([202]_Alk Sudan_) gum of Sudan, bought at Timbuctoo, + on account of Messrs. James Jackson and Co. by their agent, L'Hage + Muhamed O----n, and dispatched to Akka by the spring (_akkaba_) + accumulated caravan, in February, 1794. + + M. Doll + + 200 camel loads of gum-sudan, each + weighing 250 lb. net, bought at + Timbuctoo, at four Mexico dollars + per load, 800 +346 + _Charges._--Cow-skins to pack it in, sticks + to stow it on the camels, &c. 25 + + 200 camels hired to Akka, at 18 Mexico + dollars each, 3600 + + Stata, _i.e._ convoy through the Sahara, + from Timbuctoo to Arawan, at 20 + cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from Arawan to East Tagrassa, at + 20 cents per camel, 40 + + Do. from East Tagrassa to Akka, at + 40 cents per camel, 40 + + 20 per cent., or one-fifth, on the first + cost, to be allowed to the purchaser + on safe arrival at Akka, 160 + ---- + 4705 + + [Footnote 202: This gum is the produce of an enormous tree of + Sudan, which flourishes near Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and + Bernoh (or Bernou) it is transported by the caravans to + Alexandria in Egypt, to Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers. From the + African ports in the Mediterranean it is shipped to Smyrna and + Constantinople, and from thence to England, under the + denomination of Turkey gum; some goes to Mogodor and Tetuan, + and thence to London.] +347 + The adventure is subject to this charge, provided it arrive safe at + Akka, not otherwise, as also to encourage the agent at Timbuctoo, + to exert himself in procuring trusty guides and competent statas, + which he would not do, without having a certain interest in the + safe delivery. + + _N.B._ No stata is necessary from Akka to Santa Cruz, but the hire + is 3 dollars per camel. + + _Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, which accompanied the + foregoing Consignment._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is nothing durable but the + kingdom of heaven. + + To the Christian merchant, Jackson, at Agadeer. Peace be to those + who follow the right way. + + This being premised, know that I have sent you by this akkabah, two + hundred camel load of gum-sudan, agreeable to the account herewith + transmitted. The stata will be paid by my friend, L'Hage Aly, sheik + of Akka, whom I request you will reimburse according to the account + which I have sent to you by him; and if he goes to Agadeer, be + kind, friendly, and hospitable to him on my account, for he stands + high in my esteem; and peace be with you. + + Written at Timbuctoo, 10th of the month Muharram, year of the Hejra + 1208, (corresponding with 15th Feb. A.C. 1794). By your friend, + + L'HAGE MUHAMED O----N. + God be merciful to him. + + _Invoice from Timbuctoo to Fas_. + + Transport of gold, gum, and cottons, from Timbuctoo to Fas, + consigned to L'Hage Seyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely, Timbuctoo + merchants at Fas, by (_akkaba el Kheriffy_) the autumnal caravan. + Dispatched 29th Duelhaja el Hurem, year 1204, corresponding with + 10th October, A.C. 1790. + + 500 skins (_Tibber Wangaree_) gold dust of Wangara, each skin + containing 4 ounces, bought on their account, in barter for 800 + Flemish plattilias. + + 100 (_Sibikat deheb Wangaree_). Wangara gold in bars, weighing 20 + ounces each, bought in exchange for 400 pieces (_Shkalat_) Irish + cloth, averaging 44 cubits each piece (7 cubits are equal to 4 + English yards). +348 + 10 bed-covers, 9 cubits long, 4 wide, chequered pattern, blue and + white cotton, with scarlet silk between the chequers, manufactured + at Timbuctoo, bought in barter for 100 lb. sugar, 30 loaves. + + 50 camel-load gum-sudan, weighing net 120 quintals. + + _Charges_.--Hire of 50 camels to Akka, at 18 dollars each. + + Stata to ditto, 1 dollar per load, to be paid by Sheik Aly ben + A----r. + + _Copy of the Letter accompanying the foregoing Remittance._ + + Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength, without God, the eternal God. + + To my friends, L'Hage Zeyd and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely. Peace + be with ye, and the mercy of the High God; and after that, know, + that I have sent to our agents at Akka, by the autumnal caravan, 50 + camel loads of gum-sudan, being 100 skins; in each skin of gum I + have packed 5 skins of gold dust, and 1 bar of gold. L'Hage Tahar + ben Jelule will deliver to our agent at Akka, for you, 10 very + handsome cotton covers for beds, of Sudan manufacture. May all this + arrive safe, with the blessing of God. I will inform you by the + spring caravan what merchandize to send here next autumn. I refer + you to a long letter, which I have sent to you by L'Hage Tahar. + Peace be with you, and the blessing of God be upon you. +349 + Written at Timbuctoo, the 29th Duelhaja El Huram, year 1204. + + L'HAGE HAMED ELWANGARIE. + [203]God protect him. + + + [Footnote 203: The Muhamedans, in signing their name, always + invoke the protection, mercy, or providence of God upon + themselves.] + + _Food of the Desert._ + + The people, whose interest induces them to cross the desert, (for + there are no travellers from curiosity in this country,) obviate + the objection to salt provisions, which increases the propensity to + drink water, by taking with them melted butter, called _smin_; this + is prepared without salt. They also cut beef into long pieces, + about six inches long, and one inch square, without fat; these are + called _el kuddeed_, which are hung on a line, exposed to the air + till dry; they then cut them into pieces, two inches long; these + are put into (_buckul_) an earthen pot; they then pour the _smin_ + into the _buckul_ till it is covered. This meat and butter, besides + being palatable, is comprised in a small compass, and feeds many. + When this butter has been thus prepared and kept twelve or fifteen + years, it is called _budra_, and is supposed to contain penetrating + active medicinal qualities. I have seen some thirty years old. + + _Antithesis, a favourite Figure with the Arabs._ + + Mahmoud, sultan of Ghezna in the beginning of the eleventh century, +350 though the son of a slave, was very powerful. He sent to the khalif + Alkader, requesting a title suited to his exalted dignity. The + latter hesitated; but fearing the power of the sultan, sent him at + the expiration of a year the ambiguous title, _Uly_, i.e. a prince, + a friend, a slave. Mahmoud penetrated the khalif's meaning, and + sent him immediately 100,000 pieces of gold, with a wish to know + whether a letter had not been omitted. Alkader received the + treasure, and took the hint, instantly dispatching letters patent + in full form, creating him _Uaely_ which signifies, without + equivocation, a sovereign independent prince. + + _Arabian Modes of Writing_. + + The Arabs have various modes of writing, the principal of which is + that used by the Koreish, the most learned of all the Western + tribes, and is denominated the _Niskhi_, or upright character: if + this is understood, the others may be easily comprehended. This is + the character in which the Koran was originally written. In the + seventh century, the Arabs adopted the invention of Moramer ben + Morra, a native of Babylonian Irak, which was afterwards improved + by the Kufik. The Kufik and the Niskhi are synonymous. Richardson, + in his Arabic Grammar, p. 4. say, "The Mauritannick character, + which is used by the Moors of Marocco and Barbary, descendants of +351 the Arabians, differs in many respects _considerably_ from the + other modes of writing." But this is incorrect; for the + Mauritannick alphabet, excepting in the order of the letters, is + precisely the same with the Oriental, as now written and spoken, + with the exception only of the letters _Fa_ and _Kaf_, and the + formation even of these characters are alike. The punctuation only, + differs in the West, that is, west of the Egyptian Nile. The + Western punctuation of _Fa_, is one point below the letter, and the + punctuation of the letter _Kaf_ is one point above. In the East, + the former letter has one point above, the latter has two. This is + the only difference between the Eastern and the Western alphabets. + Richardson, (see his Grammar, page 5,) also says, that "the purest + Arabic is spoken at Grand Cairo," but this is not correct: the + language of Grand Cairo and of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and Marocco + are much alike, but none of them are the pure Koraisch or Korannick + Arabic, which is only spoken at Mekka, and among some of the tribes + of Bedouins in the West. The language of the Woled Abbusebah, of + the Howara, and of the Mograffra is the pure Arabic. Finally, in a + note in Richardson's Grammar, page 18, it is said, "Some of our + European writers, and amongst others Voltaire, substitute _Koran_ + for _Alcoran_, but perhaps improperly, as D'Herbelot and other + learned Orientalists, write uniformly _l'Alcoran, il Alcorano_, the + Alcoran." We have been too apt to copy the orthography of Oriental + names from the French, whose pronunciation of the Roman or European +352 characters differs from ours. There cannot be a doubt that + D'Herbelot is incorrect. The word _Koran_ (for there is no _c_ in + the Arabic language) is derived from the verb _Kora_, to read; + _koran_, reading: _Al_ is the article; but, in this instance, + D'Herbelot uses this article twice, which is certainly erroneous, + for _l'_ is the French article in the word in question, and _al_ is + the Arabic article; whereas _one_ article only should precede a + noun. _L'Alcoran_ and the _Alcoran_ are therefore equally + incorrect; for the word in French should be _Le Coran_; in English, + _the Koran_; therefore Voltaire was correct. I have thought it + expedient to make these observations, because standing in + Richardson's Grammar on the authority of _learned orientalists_, + they are calculated to mislead the Arabic student. + + _Decay of Science and the Arts among the Arabs_. + + The literary fire of the Arabs and Persians has been extinguished + upwards of 300 years; but before that period, the encouragement to + learning in the East was unprecedented, and has never been equalled + by any European nation either before or since that period. Kadder + Khan, king of Turquestan, was the greatest support to science. When + he appeared abroad, he was preceded by 700 horsemen, with silver + battle-axes, and was followed by an equal number bearing maces of + gold. He supported with magnificent appointment a literary academy +353 in his palace, consisting of 100 men of the highest reputation. + Amak, called Abu Naeib El Bokari, who was the chief poet, exclusive + of a great pension and a vast number of slaves, had, in attendance + wherever he went, thirty horses of state richly caparisoned, and a + retinue in proportion. The king before-mentioned used to preside at + their exercises of genius, on which occasions, by the side of his + throne were always placed four large basons filled with gold and + silver, which he distributed liberally to those who excelled. + + Lebid suspended over the gate at Mecca a sublime poem; Muhamed + placed near it the opening of the second chapter of the Koran, + which was conceived to be something divine, and it gained the prize + of the _Ocadh_ assembly. + + The remains of this custom of suspending over gates Arabic poems, + is perceived at this day among the western Moors. The gates or + entrances to Mogodor, Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, &c. have writing over + them, which is a kind of Arabic short-hand, that none but the + learned understand; these writings, however, are not moveable, + being engraven on a square table on the stone itself. + + _Extraordinary Abstinence experienced in the Sahara_. + + The Arabs or inhabitants of the Sahara, can support the most + extraordinary abstinence. Occasions occur, wherein they will travel +354 several days without food. After suffering a privation of a day or + two, they tie their (_hazam_) belt round their loins, every morning + tighter than the preceding day, thereby preventing, in some + measure, that action of the bowels which promotes appetite. A + Saharawan will thus go five or six days without food of any kind, + in which case, when he reaches a habitation, or a (_wah_) + cultivated spot in the Desert, he will drink about half-a-pint of + camel's milk; this remains on the stomach but a short time: he then + takes another draught, which, with some, remains and gives + nourishment, but with others _it_ is also rejected by the stomach; + _a third draught is then taken, which restores the exhausted + traveller!_ I have been assured, that instances have been known in + Sahara, wherein a man has been without food of any kind for seven + days, and has afterwards been restored by the foregoing regimen! + +355 + + LANGUAGES OF AFRICA. + + _Various Dialects of the Arabic Language.--Difference between the + Berebber and Shelluh Languages.--Specimen of the + Mandinga.--Comparison of the Shelluh Language with that of the + Canary Islands, and Similitude of Customs_. + + + + + Yareb, the son of Kohtan[204], is said to have been the first who + spoke Arabic, and the Muhamedans contend that it is the most + eloquent language spoken in any part of the globe, and that it is + the one which will be used at the day of judgment. To write a long + dissertation on this copious and energetic language, would be only + to repeat what many learned men have said before; a few + observations, however, may not be superfluous to the generality of + readers. The Arabic language is spoken by a greater proportion of + the inhabitants of the known world than any other: a person having + a practical knowledge of it, may travel from the shores of the + Mediterranean Sea to the Cape of Good Hope, and notwithstanding + that in such a journey he must pass through many kingdoms and + empires of blacks, speaking distinct languages, yet he would find +356 men in all those countries versed in Muhamedan learning, and + therefore acquainted with the Arabic; again, he might cross the + widest part of the African continent from west to east, and would + every where meet with persons acquainted with it, more particularly + if he should follow the course of the great river called the Neel + El Abeed, on the banks of which, from Jinnie and Timbuctoo, to the + confines of lower Egypt, are innumerable cities and towns of Arabs + and Moors, all speaking the Arabic. Again, were a traveller to + proceed from Marocco to the farthest shore of Asia, opposite the + islands of Japan, he would find the Arabic generally spoken or + understood wherever he came. In Turkey, in Syria, in Arabia, in + Persia, and in India, it is understood by all men of education; and + any one possessing a knowledge of the Korannick Arabic, might, in a + very short time, make himself master of all its various dialects. + + [Footnote 204: This Kohtan is the Joktan, son of Eber, brother + to Phaleg, mentioned in Genesis. Chapter x, verse 25.] + + The letters of this language[205] are formed in four distinct ways, + according to their situation at the beginning, middle, or end of + words, as well as when standing alone; the greatest difficulty, + however, to be overcome, is the acquiring a just pronunciation, + (without which no living language can be essentially useful;) and + to attain which, the learner should be able to express the + difference of power and sound between what may be denominated the +357 synonymous letters, such as [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] with [A] + and [A] with [A] and [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] with [A] and [A] + with [A] and [A] and [A] with [A]. + + [Footnote 205: The Oriental punctuation is here adopted.] + + [Footnote A: Arabic character; cannot be displayed in this + file format.] + + Besides these, there are other letters, whose power is extremely + difficult to be acquired by an European, because no language in + Europe possesses sounds similar to the Arabic letters [Arabic:], nor + has any language, except, perhaps, the English, a letter with the + power of the Arabian [A]. Those who travel into Asia or Africa + scarcely ever become sufficiently masters of the Arabic to speak it + fluently, which radical defect proceeds altogether from their not + learning, while studying it, the peculiar distinction of the + synonymous letters. _No European, perhaps, ever knew more of the + theory of this language than the late Sir William Jones, but still + he could not converse with an Arabian;_ a circumstance of which he + was not conscious until he went to India. This great man, however, + had he been told that his knowledge of this popular eastern + language was so far deficient, that he was ignorant of the separate + powers of its synonymous letters, and consequently inadequate to + converse intelligibly with a native Arab, he would certainly have + considered it an aspersion, and have disputed altogether that such + was the fact. Considering how much we are indebted to the Arabians +358 for the preservation of many of the works of the ancients, which + would otherwise have never, perhaps, been known to us, it is really + surprising, that their language should be so little known in + Europe. It is certainly very difficult and abstruse, (to learners + particularly,) but this difficulty is rendered insurmountable by + the European professors knowing it only as a dead language, and + _teaching it without due attention to the pronunciation of the + before mentioned synonymous letters, a defect which is not likely + to be remedied, and which will always subject the speaker to + incessant errors_. + + To shew the Arabic student the difference between the Oriental and + Occidental order of the letters of the alphabet, I shall here give + them opposite each other. + + Oriental. Occidental + + 1 Alif [A] -- 1 Alif [A] + + 2 ba. [A] -- 2 ba [A] + + 3 ta [A] -- 3 ta. [A] + + 4 thsa [A] -- 4 tha [A] + + 5 jim [A] -- 5 jim [A] + + 6 hha [A] -- 6 hha [A] + + 7 kha [A] -- 7 kha [A] + + 8 dal [A] -- 8 dal [A] + + 9 dsal [A] -- 9 dth'al [A] + + 10 ra [A] -- 10 ra [A] + + 11 za [A] -- 11 zain [A] +359 + 12 sin [A] -- 12 ta [A] + + 13 shin [A] -- 13 da [A] + + 14 sad [A] -- 14 kef [A] + + 15 dad [A] -- 15 lam [A] + + 16 ta [A] -- 16 mim [A] + + 17 da [A] -- 17 nune [A] + + 18 ain [A] -- 18 sad [A] + + 19 gain [A] -- 19 dad [A] + + 20 fa [A] -- 20 ain [A] + + 21 kaf [A] -- 21 g'rain [A] + + 22 kef [A] -- 22 fa [A] + + 23 lem [A] -- 23 kaf [A] + + 24 mim [A] -- 24 sin [A] + + 25 nun [A] -- 25 shin [A] + + 26 waw [A] -- 26 hha [A] + + 27 he [A] -- 27 wow [A] + + 28 ya [A] -- 28 ia [A] + + 29 lam-alif: ligature lam + alif = [A] + + Besides this difference of the arrangement of the two alphabets, + the Arabic student will observe that there is also a difference in + the punctuation of two of the letters: thus-- + + Oriental. Occidental. + + fa [A] fa [A] + + kaf [A] kaf [A] + + [Footnote A: Arabic characters; cannot be displayed in this + file format.] + +360 + Among the Western Arabs, the ancient Arabic figures are used, viz. + 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9: they often write 100 thus, 1..--200, + 2.. + + To explain the force of the synonymous letters on paper would be + impossible; the reader, however, may form some idea of the + indispensable necessity of knowing the distinction by the few words + here selected, which to one unaccustomed to hear the Arabic + language spoken, would appear similar and undistinguishable. + + ENGLISH. ARABIC, ARABIC. + + Rendered as near to European pronunciation + as the English Alphabet + will admit. + + A horse Aoud [Arabic:] + + Wood Awad [Arabic:] + + To repeat Aoud [Arabic:] + + Fish Hout [Arabic:] + + A gun Mokhalla [Arabic:] + + A foolish woman Mokeela [Arabic:] + + A frying pan Makeela [Arabic:] + + A lion Seban [Arabic:] + + Morning Seban [Arabic:] + + Seventh Seban [Arabic:] +361 + Hatred Hassed [Arabic:] + + Harvest Hassed [Arabic:] + + Learning (Alem, or El Alem) [Arabic:] + + A flag El Alem [Arabic:] + + Granulated paste Kuscasoe [Arabic:] + + The dish it is made in Kuscas [Arabic:] + + Heart Kul'b [Arabic:] + + Dog Kil'b [Arabic:] + + Mould Kal'b [Arabic:] + + Captain Rice [Arabic:] + + Feathers Rish [Arabic:] + + Mud G'ris [Arabic:] + + Smell Shim [Arabic:] + + Poison Sim[206] [Arabic:] +362 + Absent G'raib [Arabic:] + + Butter-milk Raib [Arabic:] + + White Bead [Arabic:] + + A black El Abd [Arabic:] + + Eggs Baid [Arabic:] + + Afar off Baid [Arabic:] + + A pig Helloof [Arabic:] + + An oath Hellef [Arabic:] + + Feed for horses Alf [Arabic:] + + A thousand Elf [Arabic:] + + [Footnote 206: The African Jews find it very difficult in + speaking, to distinguish between _shim_ and _sim_, for they + cannot pronounce the _sh_, [Arabic] but sound it like _s_ + [Arabic]; the very few who have studied the art of reading + the language, have, however, conquered this difficulty.] + + It is difficult for any one who has not accurately studied the + Arabic language, to imagine the many errors which an European + commits in speaking it, when self taught, or when taught in Europe. + This deficiency originates in the inaccuracy of the application of + the guttural and synonymous letters. + + The ain [Arabic] and the [Arabic] grain cannot be +363 accurately pronounced by Europeans, who have not studied the + language grammatically when young. The aspirated _h_, and the hard + _s_, in the word for _morning_ (sebah), are so much like their + synonymes, that few Europeans can discern the difference; the one + is consequently often mistaken for the other; and I have known a + beautiful sentence absolutely perverted through an inaccuracy of + this kind. In the words rendered _Hatred_ and _Harvest_, the two + synonymes of [Arabic:] and [Arabic:] or _s_ hard and _s_ + soft, are indiscriminately used by Europeans in their Arabic + _conversations_, a circumstance sufficient to do away the force and + meaning of many a sentence. + + The poetry as well as prose of the Arabians is well known, and has + been so often discussed by learned men, that it would be irrelevant + here to expatiate on the subject; but as the following description + of the noblest passion of the human breast cannot but be + interesting to the generality of readers, and, without any + exception, to the fair sex, I will transcribe it. + + "Love [Arabic:] beginneth in contemplation, passeth to meditation; + hence proceeds desire; then the spark bursts forth into a flame, + the head swims, the body wastes, and the soul turns giddy. If we + look on the bright side of love, we must acknowledge that it has at + least one advantage; it annihilates pride and immoderate self-love; +364 true love, whose aim is the happiness and equality of the beloved + object, being incompatible with those feelings. + + "Lust is so different from true love [Arabic], and so far from a + perfection, that it is always a species of punishment sent by God, + because man has abandoned the path of his pure love." + + In their epistolary writing, the Arabs have generally a regular and + particular style, beginning and ending all their letters with the + name of God, symbolically, because God is the beginning and end of + all things. The following short specimen will illustrate this: + + Translation of a letter written in the Korannick Arabic by Seedy + Soliman ben Muhammed ben Ismael, Sultan of Marocco, to his Bashaw + of Suse, &c. &c. + + "Praise be to the only God! for there is neither power, nor + strength, without the great and eternal God." + + L.S. + + Containing the Emperor's name and + titles, as Soliman ben Muhamed + ben Abdallah, &c, &c. + + "Our servant, Alkaid Abdelmelk ben Behie Mulud, God assist, and + peace be with thee, and the mercy and grace of God be upon thee!" + + "We command thee forthwith to procure and send to our exalted + presence every Englishman that has been wrecked on the coast of + Wedinoon, and to forward them hither without delay, and diligently +365 to succour and attend to them, and may the eye of God be upon + thee!" [207] + + [Footnote 207: When they write to any other but Muhamedans, + they never salute them with the words, "Peace be with thee," + but substitute--"Peace be to those who follow the path of the + true God," _Salem ala min itaba el Uda_.] + + "26th of the (lunar), month Saffer, year of the Hejra 1221. (May, + 1806.)" + + The accuracy of punctuation in the Arabic language is a matter that + ought to be strictly attended to. + + The foregoing observations will serve to prove the insufficiency of + a knowledge of this language, as professed or studied in Great + Britain when unaccompanied with a practical knowledge. These + observations may apply equally to the Persian language.[208] + + [Footnote 208: "One of the objects I had in view in coming to + Europe, was to instruct young Englishmen in the Persian + language. I however met with so little encouragement from + persons in authority, that I entirely relinquished the plan. I + instructed, however, (as I could not refuse the recommendations + that were brought to me,) an amiable young man, Mr. S------n, + and thanks be to God, my efforts were crowned with success! and + that he, having escaped the instructions of _self-taught_ + masters, has acquired such a knowledge of the principles of + that language, and so correct an idea of its idiom and + pronunciation, that I have no doubt, after a few years' + residence in India, he will attain to such a degree of + excellence, as has not yet been acquired by any other + Englishman." Vide Travels of Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, vol. i. p. + 200.] + + If the present ardour for discovery in Africa be persevered in, the + learned world may expect, in the course of a few years, to receive +366 histories and other works of Greek and Roman authors, which were + translated into the Arabic language, when Arabian literature was in + its zenith, and have ever since been confined to some private + libraries in the cities of the interior of Africa, and in Arabia. + + Having said thus much with regard to the Arabic of the western + Arabs, which, with little variation, is spoken throughout all the + finest districts of North Africa, I shall proceed to say a few + words respecting the other languages spoken north of Sahara: these + are the Berebber and its dialects, viz. the Zayan and Girwan, and + Ait Amor; the Shelluh of Suse and South Atlas, all which, though + latterly supposed by some learned men to be the same, differ in + many respects; any one possessing a knowledge of the Berebber + language might, with little difficulty, make himself understood by + the Zayan of Atlas, the Girwan, or the Ait Amor; but the Shelluh is + a different language, and each so different from the Arabic, that + there is not the smallest resemblance, as the following specimen + will demonstrate: + + BEREBBER. SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Tumtoot Tayelt Ishira A girl + Ajurode Ayel Ishire A boy + Askan Tarousa Hajar A thing + Aram Algrom Jimmel Camel + Tamtute Tamraut Murrah A woman + Ishiar Issemg'h L'Abd A slave + Aouli Izimer Kibsh A sheep + Taddert Tikimie Dar House +367 Ikshuden Asroen Lawad Wood + Eekeel Akfai Hellib Milk + Tifihie Uksume El Ham Meat + Buelkiel Amuran Helloof A hog + Abreede Agares Trek A road + Bishee Fikihie Ara Give me + Adude Asht Agi Come + Alkam Aftooh Cire Go + Kaym Gaeuze Jils Sit down + Imile Imeek Serire Little + + _Specimen of the Difference between the Arabic and Shelluh + Languages._ + + SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. + Is sin Tamazirkt Wash katarf Do you understand + Shelluh Shelluh? + Uree sin Man arf huh I do not understand it. + Matshrult Kif enta How are you? + Is tekeete Wash gite min Are you come from + Marokshe Marockshe Marocco? + Egan ras Miliah Good + Maigan Ala'sh Wherefore? + Misimmink As'mek What is your name? + Mensh kat dirk Shall andik How much have you got? + Tasardunt Borella A mule + Romi Romi An European + Takannarit Nasarani A Christian +368 Romi Kaffer An infidel + Misem Bebans Ashkune mula Who is the owner? + Is'tkit Tegriwelt Washjite min Are you come from + Tegriwelt Cape Ossem? + Auweete Imkelli Jib Liftor Bring the dinner + Efoulkie Meziana Handsome + Ayeese El aoud A horse + Tikelline El Baid Eggs + Amuran Helloof Hog + Tayuh Tatta Camelion + Tasamumiat Adda Green lizard + Tenawine Sfune Ships. + + Marmol says, the Shelluhs and Berebbers write and speak one + language, called Killem Abimalick[209]; but the foregoing specimen, + the accuracy of which may be depended on, clearly proves this + assertion to be erroneous, as well as that of many moderns who have + formed their opinion, in all probability, on the above authority. + Now, although the Shelluh and Berebber languages are so totally + dissimilar, that there is not one word in the foregoing vocabulary + which resembles its corresponding word in the other language, yet, +369 from the prejudice which Marmol's authority has established, it + will still be difficult, perhaps, to persuade the learned that such + an author could be mistaken on such a subject. My account therefore + must remain for a future age to determine upon, when the languages + of Africa shall be better known than they are at present; for it is + not a few travellers occasionally sent out on a limited plan, that + can ascertain facts, the attainment of which requires a long + residence, and familiar intercourse with the natives. Marmol had + also misled the world, in saying that they write a different + language; the fact is, that when they write any thing of + consequence, it is in the Arabic; but any trifling subject is + written in the Berebber words, though in the Arabic character. If + they had any peculiar character in the time of Marmol, they have + none now; for I have conversed with hundreds of them, as well as + with the Shelluhs, and have had them staying at my house for a + considerable time together, but never could learn from any, that a + character different from the Arabic had ever been in use among + them. + + [Footnote 209: Killem Abimalick signifies the Language of + Abimalick; this is evidently an error of Marmol, the Shelluh + language is denominated _Amazirk_; the Berebber Language is + denominated _Killem Brebber_.] + + In addition to these languages, there is another spoken at the + Oasis of Ammon, or Siwah, called in Arabic [Arabic:] El Wah El + Grarbie, which appears to be a mixture of Berebber and Shelluh, as + will appear from the list of Siwahan words given by Mr. +370 Horneman[210], in his Journal, page 19, part of which I have here + transcribed, to show the similitude between those two languages, + whereby it will appear that the language of Siwah and that of the + Shelluhs of South Atlas, are one and the same language. + + ENGLISH. SIWAHAN. SHELLUH. + Sun Itfuckt Atfuct. + Head Achfe Akfie + Camel Lgum Arume + Sheep Jelibb Jelibb + Cow Tfunest Tafunest + Mountain Iddrarn Iddra[211] + Have you a horse? Goreck Ackmar Is derk Achmar?[212] + Milk Achi Akfie + Bread Tagor Tagora[213] + Dates Tena Tenia (sing.)Tena (plural.) + + South of the Desert we find other languages spoken by the blacks; + and are told by Arabs, who have frequently performed the journey + from Jinnie to Cairo, and the Red Sea, that thirty-three different +371 Negro languages are met with in the course of that route, but that + the Arabic is spoken by the intelligent part of the people, and the + Muhamedan religion is known and followed by many; their writings + are uniformly in Arabic. + + [Footnote 210: In reading Mr. William Marsden's observations on + the language of Siwah, at the end of Horneman's Journal, in + page 190, I perceive that the short vocabulary inserted + corresponds with a vocabulary of the Shelluh language, which I + presented to that gentleman some years past.] [Footnote 211: + Plural Iddrarn.] + + [Footnote 212: Or, Is derk ayeese?] + + [Footnote 213: This is applied to bread when baked in a pan, or + over the embers of charcoal, or other fire; but when baked in + an oven it is called Agarom (g guttural.)] + + It may not be improper in this place, seeing the many errors and + mutilated translations which appear from time to time, of Arabic, + Turkish and Persian papers, to give a list of the Muhamedan moons + or lunar months, used by all those nations, which begin with the + first appearance of the new moon, that is, the day following, or + sometimes two days after the change, and continue till they see the + next new moon; these have been mutilated to such a degree in all + our English translations, that I shall give them, in the original + Arabic character, and as they ought to be spelt and pronounced in + the English character, as a clue whereby to calculate the + correspondence between our year and theirs. They divide the year + into 12 months, which contain 29 or 30 days, according as they see + the new moon; the first day of the month Muharam is termed [arabic] + Ras Elame, i.e. the beginning of the year. + + As we are more used to the Asiatic mode of punctuation, that will + be observed in these words. + + Muharam [Arabic] + Asaffer [Arabic] +372 Arabia Elule [Arabic] + Arabea Atthenie [Arabic] + Jumad Elule [Arabic] + Jumad Athenie [Arabic] + Rajeb [Arabic] + Shaban [Arabic] + Ramadan [Arabic] + Shual [Arabic] + Du'elkada [Arabic] + Du Elhajah [Arabic] + + The first of Muharram, year of the Hejra 1221, answers to the 19th + March of the Christian aera, 1806. + + Among the various languages spoken south of the Sahara, we have + already observed that there are thirty-three different ones between + the Western Ocean and the Red Sea, following the shores of the Nile + El Abeed, or Niger: among all these nations and empires, a man + practically acquainted with the Arabic, may always make himself + understood, and indeed, it is the language most requisite to be + known for every traveller in these extensive regions. + + The Mandinga is spoken from the banks of the Senegal, where that + river takes a northerly course from the Jibel Kuthera to the +373 kingdom of Bambarra; the Wangareen tongue is a different one; and + the Housonians speak a language differing again from that. + + _Specimen of the difference between the Arabic and Mandinga + language; the words of the latter extracted from the vocabularies + of Seedi Muhamed ben Amer Sudani._ + + ENGLISH. MANDINGA. ARABIC. + + One Kalen Wahud + Two Fula Thanine + Three Seba Thalata + Four Nani Arba + Five Lulu Kumsa + Six Uruh Setta + Seven Urn'klu Sebba + Eight Saeae Timinia + Nine Kanuntee Taseud + Ten Dan Ashra + Eleven Dan kalen Ahud ash + Twelve Dan fula Atenashe + Thirteen Dan seba Teltashe + Nineteen Dankanartee Tasatasli + Twenty Mulu Ashreen + Thirty Mulu nintau Thalateen + Forty Mulu fula Arbae'in + Fifty Mulu fula neentan Kumseen + Sixty Mulu sebaa Setteen + Seventy Mulu sebaa nintan Sebae'in. +374 Eighty Mulu nani T'aramana'een + Ninety Mulu nani neentaan Tasa'een + One hundred Kemi Mia + One thousand Uli Elf + + This Neen Hadda + That Waleem Hadduk + Great Bawa Kabeer + Little Nadeen Sereer + Handsome Nimawa Zin + Ugly Nuta Uksheen (k guttur.) + White Kie Bead + Black Feen Khal + Red Williamma Hummer + How do you do? Nimbana mcuntania Kif-enta + Well Kantee Ala-khere + Not well Moon kanti Murrede + What do you want Ala feta matume Ash-bright + Sit down Siduma Jils + Get up Ounilee Node + Sour Akkumula Hamd + Sweet Timiata Helluh + True Aituliala Hack + False Funiala Kadube + Good Abatee Miliah + Bad Minbatee Kubiah + A witch Bua Sahar + A lion Jatta Sebaa +375 An elephant Samma El fel + A hyaena Salua Dubbah + A wild boar Siwa El kunjer + A water horse Mali Aoud d'Elma + A horse Suhuwa Aoud + A camel Kumaniun Jimmel + A dog Wallee Killeb + Hel el Killeb Hel Wallee Hel El Killeb + or the dog-faced + race. + + A gazel Tankeen Gazel (g guttural) + A cat Niankune El mish + A goat Baa El maize + A sheep Kurenale Kibsh + A bull Nisakia Toor + A serpent Saa Hensh + A camelion Mineer Tatta + An ape Ku'nee Dzatute + A fowl or chicken Susee Djez + A duck Beruee El Weese + A fish Hihu El hout + Butter Tulu Zibda + Milk Nunn El hellib + Bread Mengu El khubs (k guttur.) + Corn Nieu Zra + Wine Tangee Kummer (k guttur.) + Honey Alee Asel + Sugar Tobabualee Sukar + Salt Kuee Mil'h + Ambergris Anber Anber +376 Brass Tass Tass + Silver Kudee Nukra + Gold-dust Teber Tiber + Pewter Tass ki Kusdeer + A bow Kula El kos + An arrow Binia Zerag + A knife Muru Jenui + A spoon Kulia Mogerfa + A bed El arun El ferrashe + A lamp El kundeel El kundeel + A house Su Ed dar + A room Bune El beet + A light-hole Jinnee Reehaha + or window + A door Daa Beb + A town Kinda Midina + Smoke Sezee Tkan (k guttural) + Heat Kandia Skanna (k guttural) + Cold Nini Berd + Sea Bedu baha Bahar + River Bedu Wed + A rock Berri Jerf + Sand Kinnikanni Rummel + The earth Binku Dunia + Mountain Kuanku Jibbel + Island Juchuei Dzeera + Rain Sanjukalaeen Shta + God Allah Allah + Father Fa Ba + Mother Ba Ma + Hell Jahennum Jehennume +377 A man Kia Rajil + A woman Musa Murrah + A sister Bum musa Kat (k guttural) + A brother Bum kia Ka + The devil Buhau Iblis + A white man Tebabu Rajil biad + A singer Jalikea Runai (r guttural) + A singing woman Jalimusa Runaiah (r guttural) + A slave June Abeed + A servant Bettela Mutalem + + Having now given some account of the languages of Africa, we shall + proceed to animadvert on the similitude of language and customs + between the Shelluhs of Atlas and the original inhabitants of the + Canary Islands. The words between inverted commas, are quotations + from Glasse's History of the Discovery and Conquest of the Canary + Islands. + + "The inhabitants of Lancerotta and Fuertaventura are social and + cheerful;" like the Shelluhs of Atlas; "they are fond of singing + and dancing; their music is vocal, accompanied with a clapping of + hands, and beating with their feet;" the Shelluhs resemble them in + all these respects; "Their houses are built of stone, without + cement; the entrance is narrow, so that but one person can enter at + a time." + +378 The houses of the Shelluhs are sometimes built without cement, but + always with stone; the doors and entrances are low and small, so + that one person only can enter. + + "In their temples they offered to their God milk and butter." + + Among the Shelluhs milk and butter are given as presents to princes + and great men; the milk being an emblem of good will and candour. + + "When they were sick (which seldom happened) they cured themselves + with the herbs which grew in the country; and when they had acute + pains, they scarified the part affected with sharp stones, and + burned it with fire, and then anointed it with goat's butter. + Earthen vessels of this goat's butter were found interred in the + ground, having been put there by the women, who were the makers, + and took that method of preparing it for medicine." + + The custom of the Shelluhs on such occasions is exactly similar; + the butter which they use is old, and is buried under ground many + years in (_bukul_) earthen pots, and is called _budra_: it is a + general medicine, and is said to possess a remarkably penetrating + quality. + + "They grind their barley in a hand-mill, made of two stones, being + similar to those used in some remote parts of Europe". + + In Suse, among the Shelluhs, they grind their corn in the same way, + and barley is the principal food. + + "Their breeches are short, leaving the knees bare;" so are those + worn by the Shelluhs. +379 + "Their common food was barley meal roasted and mixed with goat's + milk and butter, and this dish they call Asamotan." + + This is the common food of the Shelluhs of Atlas, and they call it + by a similar name, Azamitta. + + The opinion of the author of the History and Conquest of the Canary + Islands, is, that the inhabitants came originally from Mauritania, + and this he founds on the resemblance of names of places in Africa + and in the islands: "for," says he, "Telde[214], which is the name + of the oldest habitation in Canaria, Orotaba, and Tegesta, are all + names which we find given to places in Mauritania and in Mount + Atlas. It is to be supposed that Canaria, Fuertaventura, and + Lancerotta, were peopled by the Alarbes[215], who are the nation + most esteemed in Barbary; for the natives of those islands named + milk _Aho_, and barley _Temecin_, which are the names that are + given to those things in the language of the Alarbes of Barbary." + He adds, that-- + + "Among the books of a library that was in the cathedral of St. Anna + in Canaria, there was found one so disfigured, that it wanted both + the beginning and the end: it treated of the Romans, and gave an +380 account, that when Africa was a Roman province, the natives of + Mauritania rebelled and killed their presidents and governors, upon + which the senate, resolving to punish and make a severe example of + the rebels, sent a powerful army into Mauritania, which vanquished + and reduced them again to obedience. Soon after the ringleaders of + the rebellion were put to death, and the tongues of the common + people, together with those of their wives and children, were cut + out, and then they were all put aboard vessels with some grain and + cattle, and transported to the Canary islands." [216] + + [Footnote 214: Telde or Tildie is a place in the Atlas + mountains, three miles east of Agadeer; the castle is in + ruins.] + + [Footnote 215: The Alarbes, this is the name that the + inhabitants of Lower Suse and Sahara have, _El Arab_ or Arabs.] + + [Footnote 216: One Thomas Nicols, who lived seven years in the + Canary Islands, and wrote a history of them, says, that the + best account he could get of the origin of the natives, was, + that they were exiles from Africa, banished thence by the + Romans, who cut out their tongues for blaspheming their gods.] + + The following vocabulary will show the similarity of language + between the natives of Canaria and the Shelluhs (inhabitants of the + Atlas mountains south of Marocco). + + LANCEROTTA AND SHELLUH OR ENGLISH. + FUERTAVENTURA DIALECT. LYBIAN TONGUE. + + Temasin Tumzeen Barley + Tezzezes Tezezreat Sticks + Taginaste Taginast A palm-tree + Tahuyan Tahuyat A blanket, + covering, or petticoat. + Ahemon Amen Water +381 Faycag Faquair Priest or lawyer + Acoran M'koorn God + Almogaren Talmogaren Temples + Tamoyanteen Tigameen Houses + Tawacen Tamouren Hogs + Archormase Akermuse Green figs + Azamotan Azamittan Barley meal fried in oil + Tigot Tigot Heaven + Tigotan Tigotan The Heavens + Thener Athraar A mountain + Adeyhaman Douwaman A hollow valley + Ahico Tahayk A hayk, or coarse garment + Kabeheira Kabeera A head man or a powerful + Ahoren ---- Barley meal roasted + Ara ---- A goat + Ana ---- A sheep + Tagarer ---- A place of justice + + Benehoare, the name of the natives of Palma. + + Beni Hoarie, a tribe of Arabs in Suse between Agadeer and + Terodant.[217] + + [Footnote 217: For further particulars, see Glasse's History of + the Canary Islands, 4to. page 174.] + +382 + + TITLES + OF + THE EMPEROR OF MAROCCO, + STYLE OF ADDRESSING HIM, + AND + SPECIMENS OF EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE. + + + * * * * * + + + _THE TITLES OF THE EMPEROR_ + ARE + + Servant of God. + + Commander, Captain, or Leader of the (Mumeneen) _Faithful_ [i.e. in + Muhamed], _upheld by the Grace of God_. + + _Prince of Hassenee_. Ever supported by God. + + _Sultan of Fas, of Maroksh_ [Marocco], _of Suse, and of Draha, and + of Tafilelt and Tuat, together with all the kabyles_ [tribes] _of + the West, and of the Berebbers of Atlas, &c._ + + The Sultan calls his soldiers (_ketteffee_) "my shoulders or + support, or strength;" his subjects he calls his sons (_woledee_), + and himself the father of his people. + + N.B. The Hejra, or Muhamedan aera began A.D. 622. The Muhamedan + years are lunar, 33 of which are about 32 solar years. + +383 + + THE STYLE + USED BY MUSELMEN, + _IN ADDRESSING THE EMPEROR,_ + IS AS FOLLOWS: + + "Sultan of exalted dignity, whom God preserve. May the Almighty + protect that royal purity, and bestow happiness, increase of + wealth, and prosperity on the nation of believers [i.e. in + Muhamed], whose welfare and power is attributed entirely to the + favour and benevolence of the Exalted God." + + The Sultan is head of the ecclesiastical, military, and civil law, + and is universally considered by his subjects God's Vicegerent, or + Lieutenant on Earth. All letters written to his Imperial Majesty, + are begun with the praise of God, and with the acknowledgment, (in + opposition to idolatry,) that there is neither beginning nor power + but what proceeds from God, the eternal God, (_La hule u la kua ela + billa, Allah el adeem_.) + +384 + + SPECIMENS + OF + _MUHAMEDAN EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE._ + + * * * * * + + + _The following Letters are literal translations from the original + Arabic, and, although not of great importance, yet it is some + satisfaction to the enquiring mind, to observe the various modes of + address, and to note the style of Epistolary Correspondence + practised by the Muhamedans, which is so different from that which + is used among European and other nations._ + + + * * * * * + + LETTER I. + + _From Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, to Captain Kirke at + Tangier; Ambassador from King Charles the Second, dated 7th Du + Elkadah, in the 1093d Year of the Hejra, (corresponding to the 27th + October, A. D, 1682_.) + + Praise be to God, the most High alone! and the blessing of God be + upon those who are for his prophet. + + From the shereef[218], the servant of God, who putteth his trust in +385 God, the commander of the faithful, who is courageous in the way of + the omniscient God. + + [Footnote 218: Shereef is a general term in the Arabic for a + prince, king, or emperor, signifying royal blood.] + + L.S. + + Ismael Son of a shereef; God illumine + and preserve him. + + God assist his commanders, and give victory to his forces and + armies, Amen! To the captain of Tangier, Kirke, _peace be to those + who follow the right way[219]_; this by way of preface. Your letter + came to the lofty place of our residence, and we understand what + your discourse contained. As for the asking a cessation of arms by + sea; know, that it was not treated of between us till this present + time. Neither did we make truce with you concerning any thing but + Tangier alone. When you came to our illustrious house, we treated + with you about that matter for four years, and if you had sojourned + there yourself, no Muselman would ever have gone into that town + hostilely against you, but merely as a peaceable merchant. + + [Footnote 219: This is a sentence which frequently occurs in + the Koran, but when used in epistolary correspondence with + Christians (for it is never used by Muhamedans between + themselves), it bears the appearance of a salutation, but the + allusion is to Muhamedans, who _these people think_ are the + only men who follow the true path or right way; it is, however, + a compliment to all who _think themselves_ in the right way.] + + As to a cessation of arms by sea, it was not negociated by us, + neither did we discourse about it; but, when you desired it of us, +386 we wrote to your Master in England, saying, If you desire a + cessation of arms by sea, and are willing to receive a firm peace + from us, send us two understanding men, of the chief of the Divan + of England, by whom the peace of all the Christians here may be + confirmed; and, when they shall arrive at the lofty place of our + residence, and sit before us, whatsoever they shall hear from us, + by way of agreement, shall be acceded to! And we have given you + security, at sea, for four months, viz. from the time we sent you + our letter to Tangier, till the day that there shall come an answer + from your Master, and until the arrival of the two ambassadors + aforementioned, after the aforesaid manner. As for those men who in + thy letter thou didst say were taken at sea: I neither know nor + have heard any thing of them. Your discourse about that matter + having been with Aly ben Abdallah, and he administered justice (to + you) upon the Muselmen who had taken these men prisoners for the + sake of him, for whom you made your complaint to us; and he + returned the Christians to you, and imprisoned the sailors for + capturing them. Now, if there shall happen to be a peace between me + and you at sea, as there is for four years by land, through your + mediation, and by reason of your coming to us, I will hang them, + and blot out their footsteps, and be revenged on them with the most + severe revenge. + + Our servant Muhamed ben Hadu Aater, who came from your presence, + told us that lions are scarce in your country, and that they are in +387 high estimation, with you. When your servant came to us, he found + we had two small young lions, wherefore by him we send them to you. + And know, that we have received by our servants from your Master, + _three_ coach-horses, now a coach requires _four_ horses to draw + it, wherefore you must needs send us another good one of the same + kind and size, that they may draw the coach with four horses. + Oblige us in this by all means. Farewell: we depend upon it. + + Written 7th of the sacred month _Du El Kadah_, in the year of the + Hejra, ninety-three and a thousand, (A.D. 1682.) + + + LETTER II. + + _From the same Muley Ismael to Sir Cloudesly Shovel, on board the + Charles Galley, off Salee, written Aug. 26. A.D. 1684, year of the + Hejra 1095_. + + L.S. + + I, servant of God, and Emperor of + Marocco and King of Mauritania, + whom God preserve in all + his undertakings, &c. + + I Salute you and the rest of the captains. + + As for the captives you have taken, they belong to several places, + and are not all my subjects; and what I do is out of charity, as + they are Muhamedans, being forced to go to sea for want of + maintenance. As for those that are my soldiers, they go to sea to +388 fight and to die in my quarrels; but, those _Moors_ that _you_ have + taken, are inconsiderable and of no account. + + Henceforward I shall have ships as big as yours, if not bigger, + hoping to take some of your ships and captains, and cruise for you + in your English seas, as you do for us in these. + + I have written letters to the King of England, in which are kind + expressions: And when you had Tangier, all things were given to you + as you wanted, and all done out of kindness; and now that you have + left Tangier for the Moors, whatever His Majesty of Great Britain + wants, either by sea or by land, it shall be granted, so that there + be a peace betwixt the two crowns; for which I pass my word and + faith. + + Now, _I have written several letters to his Majesty of Great + Britain, to which I have received as yet no answer_; but, when it + (the answer) reaches my hands, I hope there will be a good + accommodation between us. + + You have taken several of our ships and destroyed others, and you + are cruising on our coast, which is not the way to make a good + peace, neither the actions of honesty in you. + + God be praised that you have quitted Tangier and left it to us, to + whom it did belong: from henceforward we shall keep it well + supplied with stores, for it is the best port of our dominions. + + As for the captives you have taken, you may do as you please with +389 them, heaving them into the sea, or otherwise destroying them. The + English merchants that are here resident, shall satisfy all their + debts, which being done, none of them shall remain in my country. + + + LETTER. III. + + _Captain Shovel's Answer_. + + May it please Your Majesty, + + We, the King of England's captains, return Your Majesty humble + thanks for your kind wishes to us. Your Majesty by this may know, + that we have received your letter, and by it we understand, that + Your Majesty is informed that most of these people that are taken + are not your subjects. We perceive by this, as well as in other + things, how grossly Your Majesty has been deceived by those people + you trust; else, we doubt not, but that, long before this, our + Master, whom God preserve, and Your Majesty had accommodated all + differences, and we should have had a firm peace. + + Of those fifty-three slaves that are here, (excepting two or + three,) they are all Moors of their own country, as they themselves + can make appear; but, if they are to be disowned because they are + poor, the Lord help them!! Your Majesty tells us, that we may throw + them overboard, if we please: all this we very well know; but we + are Christians, and they bear the form of men, which is reason +390 enough for us not to do so. + + As to Tangier, our Master kept it twenty-one years; and the world + is sensible, that in spite of all your force, he could, if he had + pleased, have continued to keep it to the world's end; for, he + levelled your walls, filled up your harbour, and demolished your + houses, in the face of your Alkaid and his army; and when he had + done, he left your[220] barren country (without the loss of a man) + for your own people to starve in: but our departure from thence, + long before this, we doubt not, but you have repented of. When you + tell us of those mighty ships Your Majesty intends to build and + send to our coast, you must excuse us if we think ourselves the + better judges; for we know, as to shipping, what you are able to + do. + + [Footnote 220: The gallant and magnanimous captain was better + acquainted with the coast than with the country, which is any + thing but barren.] + + If you think fit to redeem those slaves, at 100 dollars a-piece, + they are at Your Majesty's service, and the rest shall be sent to + you; or, if you think fit to give us so many English in exchange, + we shall be well satisfied; but we think you will hardly comply + with that, for the poorest slave that ever our Master redeemed out + of _your_ country, cost him 200 dollars; and some of these five + times that sum, for he freely extended his charity to all, and + never forgets his people _because they are poor_. +391 + It is great wonder to us, that you should tax us with unjust + proceedings in taking your ships in time of truce, when Your + Majesty may remember that, during the time your ambassador was in + England, your corsairs took about twenty sail of my Master's ships; + and this very year, you have fitted out all the force in your + kingdom to sea, who have taken several of our ships, and at the + same time pretend to a truce for peace! But some of your ships, for + their unjust dealings, have had their reward, and the rest, when + they shall come to sea, we doubt not but God Almighty will put them + into our hands. + + If Your Majesty think fit to send proposals to my Master concerning + peace, I shall take care for the speedy and safe conveyance of the + same. I desire Your Majesty's speedy answer; for I do not intend to + stay long before Salee. + + Wishing Your Majesty long life and happiness, I subscribe myself, + Your Majesty's + + Most obedient and humble Servant, + + CLOUDESLY SHOVEL. + Sept. 1684 A.D. +392 + + LETTER IV. + + _A literal Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco's Letter + to Queen Anne, in the year of our Lord 1710, extracted from the + Harl. MSS. 7525_. + + L.S. + + In the name of the most + merciful God. + + He that depends upon God goeth straight to the right way. From the + servant of God, the Emperor of the believers, who maketh war for + the cause of the Lord of both worlds, Ismael ben Assherif Al + Hassanee to the Queen of the English, nay of England, and the + mistress of the great parliament thereof, happiness to every one + that followeth the right way, and believes in God, and is so + directed. + + This premised, we have heard from more than one of the comers and + goers from thy country, that thou hast seized our Armenian servant, + a person of great esteem. We sent him to thee, to compose a + difference between us and thee, and we wrote to thee concerning + him, that thou shouldst use him well. Then, after this, we heard + that thou didst set him at liberty: And wherefore didst thou seize + him? Hath he exceeded any covenant, or hath he made any covenant + with thee and broke it? We should not have sent him to thee, but on +393 account of our knowledge and assurance of his understanding and + integrity; and when he resolved upon his journey into your country, + we gave him directions to dispatch some of our affairs. Wherefore + we wrote unto thee concerning him, and said, If thou hast any + necessity or business with us, he will convey it to us from thee. + And we said unto thee, Speak with him, and whatsoever thou sayest + unto him, he will communicate unto us, without addition or + diminution. + + As for what our servant Alkaid Ali ben Abdallah did to ----, the + Christian, thy servant, by God we know nothing of it, nor gave him + any permission as to any thing that passed between them; and, at + the instant that we heard that he had taken thy man, we commanded + him to set him at liberty forthwith; and since then we have never + manifested any favour to Alkaid Ali, nor was our mind ever right + towards him afterwards till he died. + + Our Christian servant, the merchant, Bayly, told us, that thou + hadst a mind to an ostrich, and we gave him two, a male and a + female, which shall come to you, if God will. And, lo! a secretary, + our servant, (who is much esteemed by us,) when he cometh he shall + bring what goods he hath collected with him, if it please God. And + we are in expectation of thy messenger the ambassador; and if he + comes, he shall see nothing from us but what is fair; and we will + deliver to him the Christians, and do what he pleases, if God will. + Wherefore be kind to our servant, with respect. +394 + Written the first of the Glorious Ramadan, in the year of the Hejra + 1125 (corresponding with A.D. 1710). + + + LETTER V. + + _Translation of an Arabic Letter from the Sultan Seedi Muhamed[221] + ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the European Consuls resident + at Tangier, delivered to each of them, by the Bashaw of the + province of El Grarb, on 1st day of June, 1788, corresponding with + the year of the Hejra, 1202_. + + [Footnote 221: Father of the present Sultan Soliman ben + Muhamed.] + + L.S. + + Mohamed ben Abdallah, ben + Ismael, Sultan ben, Sultan, + &c. + + In the name of God, for there is no power or strength but from God. + + To all the Consuls at Tangier. + + Peace (be) to those who follow the right path. + + By this you will learn that we are in peace and friendship with all + the Christian powers until the month of May of the next year, (of + the Hejra, 1203,) and such nations as shall then be desirous to + continue in peace and friendship with us, are to write a letter to + us, when the month of May comes, to inform us if they are in peace + and friendship with us, then we shall be the same with them; but, + if any Christian nation desire to go to war with us, they will let +395 us know before the month above-mentioned; and we trust God will + keep us in his protection against them; and thus I have said all I + had to say. + + 2d day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1202, (corresponding with 7th + May, 1788.) + + + LETTER VI. + + _Letter from Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. + to His Majesty George III. literally translated from the original + Arabic, by James Grey Jackson, at the request of the Right Hon. + Spencer Perceval, after lying in the Secretary of State's Office + here for several months, and being then sent ineffectually to the + Universities for translation, and after various enquiries had been + made on behalf of the Emperor, to the Governor of Gibraltar, the + Bashaw of El Garb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to ascertain if any + answer had been returned to his Imperial Majesty._ + + In the name of God! the all-merciful and commiserating God, on whom + is our account, and we acknowledge his support; for there is + neither beginning nor power but that which proceeds from God, the + High Eternal God. + + From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful [in Muhamed] + upheld and supported by the Grace of God. + + Soliman the son of Muhamed, the son of Abdallah, the son of Ismael, + Prince of [the house or dynasty of Hassan][222] who was ever upheld +396 by the power of God, Sultan of Fas and Marocco, and Suse, and + Draha, and Tafilelt, and Tuat, together with all the territories of + the West. + + [Footnote 222: The words between brackets are not in the original, + but implied.] + + L.S. + + Soliman, son of Mohamed, son + Abdallah, God illumine and support + him! + + To our dearly beloved and cherished, exalted by the power of God, + the Sultan[223] George the Third, Sultan of the territories of the + United Kingdom of Great Britain, Ireland, Duke of Mecklenburg + Strelitz, Prince, descended from the dynasty of the Sultans of Rome + and Palestine, &c. + + This premised, we inform you, that we make diligent inquiry about + you, desiring heartily that you may be at all times surrounded by + health and prosperity. We wish you to increase in friendship with + us, that our alliance may be more strongly cemented than + heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors, + whom God guard and protect. + + Now therefore we make known to you, that your physician, Doctor + Buffe, has been in our royal presence, [which is] exalted by the + bounty of God, and we have been well pleased with his medical + knowledge and diligent attention, and moreover with the relief he + has given to us. + +397 We have therefore to entreat of you to give him your royal order to + return to Gibraltar, in our neighbourhood, well provided with all + good and necessary medicines; that he, residing at Gibraltar, may + be ready to attend quickly our royal presence, whenever we may be + in need of his [medical] assistance. We trust you will return him + without procrastination to our throne, seeing that he has been of + essential service to us. + + We recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffe, in your favour and esteem on + our account, and we will always be your allies and friends. May you + ever be well and in prosperity! Peace be with you, 4th of the month + Jumad El Lule in the year [of the Hejra] 1221, (corresponding with + 5th July, 1806, A.D.) + + [Footnote 223: This perhaps is the only letter extant, wherein + a Muselman Prince gives the title of Sultan to a Christian + king.] + + + LETTER VII. + + In Muhamedan countries, an insolvent man continues liable to his + creditors till the day of his death, unless the debt is discharged; + but he can claim by law his liberation from prison, on making oath, + and bringing proof of his insolvency: but then if he succeed + afterwards and become possessed of property, he is compelled to pay + the debts formerly contracted; so that an European should be + cautious how he contracts debts with the Moors, lest the + misfortunes that commerce is liable to should oblige him to remain + all his life in the country. A letter, similar to the following, +398 should be procured by every European, about to quit the country, to + prevent the extortion of the alkaid, who might, as has often + happened before, throw impediments in the way for the purpose of + extorting presents, &c. + + _Translation of a Firman of Departure, literally translated from + the Original Arabic, by James Grey Jackson._ + + L.S. + + Soliman ben Muhamed, ben + Abdallah, ben Ismael Sultan, + &c. + + Praise be to God alone. + + Our servants El Hage Mohamed o Bryhim, and Seid Mohamed Bel Akkia, + peace and the mercy of God be with you! This premised, I command + you to suffer the Christian merchant, Jackson, to embark for his + own country, if it appears to you that no one pursues him in law + [for debt,] as I wrote to you on this subject in my last letter: if + no one claims of him any right by law, allow him to go, and do not + impede him.[224] God protect you, and peace be with you. 3d day of + Saffer, the good year 1220 of the Hejra, (A.C. 1805.) + + [Footnote 224: This repetition of the principal subject in + Arabic correspondence, is a mode of impressing on the mind more + forcibly, the subject intended to be impressed, and is commonly + practised by the best Arabian, and African writers; it also + frequently occurs in the inspired writings. See Psalms lxxv, l. + lxxvii, 1. &c.] + + + LETTER VIII. + + As a specimen of the lofty style of writing so much in use among +399 the Eastern authors, I shall add the summons which Hulacu the + Tartar conqueror of the East, (who took Bagdad, and entirely + subverted the government of the Saracens,) sent to Al Malek + Annasar, sultan of Aleppo, in the year of the Hejra 657, (of Christ + 1259.) + + Let Al Malek Annasar know, that we sat down before Bagdad in the + 655th year (of the Hejra,) and took it by the sword of the most + high God: and we brought the master of it before us, and demanded + two things of him; to which he, not answering, brought deserved + punishment upon himself. As it is written in your Koran, "_God doth + not change the condition of a people, till their own minds are + changed_." He took care of his wealth, and fate brought him to what + he is come to. He chose to exchange precious lives for pieces of + money made of vile metal; which is plainly the same that God says + _They found_ [the reward of] _what they had done present with + them_.[225] For we have attained by the power of God, what we + desired; and by the help of the most high God we shall increase. + Nor is there any doubt of our being the army of God upon his earth. + He created us, and gave us power over every one upon whom his anger + rests. Wherefore, let what is past be to you an example, and what + we have mentioned a warning. Fortifications are nothing in our +400 hands, nor doth the joining of battle avail you any thing; nor will + your intreaties be heard or regarded. Take warning therefore by + others, and surrender entirely to us, before the veil be taken off, + and [_the punishment of_] sin light upon you. For we shall have no + mercy upon him that complains, nor be moved by him that weeps. We + have wasted countries, we have destroyed men, we have made children + orphans, and the land desolate. It is your business to run away; + ours to pursue; nor can you escape our swords, nor fly from our + arrows. Our horses are racers; our arrows strike home; our swords + pierce like lightning; our fortifications are like mountains, and + our numbers like the sand. Whosoever surrenders comes off safe: + whosoever is for war, repents it. If you will obey our command, and + come to our terms, your interest and ours shall be the same; but if + you be refractory and persist in your error, blame not us, but + yourselves. God is against you, ye wicked wretches: look out for + something to screen you under your miseries, and find somebody to + bear you company in your affliction. We have given you fair + warning, and fair warning is fair play. You have eaten things + forbidden[226], you have been perfidious in your treaties. You have + introduced new heresies, and thought it a gallant thing to commit +401 sodomy. Prepare yourselves therefore for scorn and contempt. Now + you will find what you have done; for they that have done amiss, + will now find their state changed. You take it for granted, that we + are infidels. We take it for granted, that you are _villains_; and + _He_ by whose hand all things are disposed and determined, hath + given us the dominion over you. The greatest man you have is + despicable among us; and what _you_ call rich, is a beggar. We + govern the world from east to west, and whosoever is worth any + thing is our prey; and we take every ship by force. Weigh therefore + what is fit to be done, and return us a speedy answer, before + _infidelity_[227] shall have kindled its fire, and scattered its + sparks among you, and destroy you all from off the face of the + earth. We have awakened you by sending to you: make haste with an + answer, lest punishment come upon you unawares. + + [Footnote 225: A quotation from the Koran. The Tartar was a + deist, and quotes the Koran in derision.] + + [Footnote 226: The Muhamedans, whose religion is a compound of + Judaism and Christianity, have borrowed many customs from + either, they abstain like the Jews from swine's flesh, &c.] + + [Footnote 227: As the Muhamedans charge every nation that doth + not believe Muhamed to have been a prophet with infidelity, so + the Tartar (who was a Deist) returns it upon them.] +402 + + LETTER IX. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, to Webster + Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire of Marocco, from their + High Mightinesses the States-General, of the Seven United + Provinces. Written soon after the Emperor's Proclamation, and + previous to the Negotiation for the opening of the Port of Agadeer, + to Dutch Commerce._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God." + + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan ben Sultan, (i.e. Emperor and Son of an + Emperor.) + + "To the Consul Blount. Peace be with those who follow the right + way, or the way of the true God: and this being premised, know that + I have received your letter, and that we are with you, (the Dutch + nation,) in peace and amity and good faith, and peace be with you. + 22 Ramadan, year of the Hejra 1204, (A.C. 1792.)" + + Translated literally by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + + LETTER X. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Yezzid, to the Governor + of Mogodor, Aumer ben Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the + Dutch, and to send there the Merchants of that Nation._ + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor power + without God, the eternal God." +403 + L.S. + + Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan + ben Sultan. + + "Our servant (or agent) Alkaid Aumer ben Daudy, peace be unto you, + with the mercy and blessing of God: this premised, I command that + all the duties you have collected be sent to me speedily by my + brother[228] Muley Soliman, who will (_berik_) discharge you by + receipt for every thing you deliver to him, for he is our + representative. We are preparing to go to the siege of Ceuta, with + the acquiescence of the High God, by whose power we hope to enter + it, and take it. And we command you to send the Alkaid M'saud El + Hayanie to my port of Agadeer, with all things necessary for his + journey, assisting him with every possible succour, and send with + him twenty Benianters[229], who must be sailors skilful in the + management of boats; and the Christian merchants of the Dutch + nation will go to Agadeer, and establish their houses there; for I + have given that port to the Dutch to trade there: and send with + them Talb Aumer Busedra, and the eye of God be upon you, and peace + be with you." + + [Footnote 228: The duties were at this time collected in kind; + viz. one tenth of every thing imported from Europe: and the + present Emperor Muly Soliman was deputed to convey them to the + camp before Ceuta, to his brother, the Emperor Muley Yezzid, + whose army was besieging that fortress.] + + [Footnote 229: _Benianters_, are a kabyle of Shelluhs of Suse, + who are employed to work, and row the boats, and land the goods + at Mogodor.] +404 + Seventh day of Arrabea Ellule, year (Hejra) 1205.[230] + + Translated by the Author, from the original Arabic in his + possession. + + "Be vigilant with respect to the matter of the establishment of + Agadeer, and of M'saud El Hayanie." [231] + + [Footnote 230: Corresponding with A.C. 1793.] + + [Footnote 231: The Emperors of Marocco, and the Arabian writers + in general thus repeat the principal subject of a letter or + discourse, to impress it more forcibly on the mind.] + + + LETTER XI. + + _Epistolary Diction used by the Muhamedans of Africa, in their + Correspondence with all their Friends who are not of the Muhamedan + faith_. + + "Praise be to God alone; for there is neither beginning nor + strength without God, the eternal God. + + "From the servant of the great God, El Hage Abdrahaman El Fellely, + to my friend Consul Jackson, peace be to those who follow the right + way, or who pursue the right path; and then, O my friend, I have + received your letter, and I have taken good notice of its contents, + &c. &c." + + The letter, after explaining matters of business, concludes thus:-- + + "Do not leave me without news from you; and peace be with you, and + peace from me to our friend L'hage Muhamed Bu Zeyd; and peace from + me to Seed Muham'd bel Hassen, and to the Fakeer Seed Abdallah, and +405 praise be to God, I am very well, and prosperous." + + "Written 15th day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1209, (1797, A.C.)" + + The style in which letters are addressed is generally as follows:-- + + "This shall arrive, God willing, to the hands of Consul Jackson, at + Agadeer. May God prosper it." + + + LETTER XII. + + _Translation of a Letter from the Sultan, Seedi Muhamed Emperor of + Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor_. + + "Praise be to God alone, + + "I order my servant Alkaid Muhamed ben Amran, to deliver the + treasure and the merchandise to the Christian merchants at Mogodor, + which is in the possession of the Jews, Haim Miram, and Meemon ben + Isaac Corcos, and others of the Jews, friends of the Christian + merchants. God assist you, and peace be with you. 23d of the month + Jumad Ellule, year of the Hejra 1203. + + "By order of the Sultan, empowered by God. Written by Talb El + Huderanie." + + The courier who receives the letter is ordered by the minister whom + to deliver it to. It is then inclosed in a blank leaf or sheet of + paper, without any address, and not sealed. It is presumed, that + the courier or messenger will not dare to open it, or discover the + contents to any one; such a breach of confidence might cost him his + head, if discovered. +406 + _Doubts having been made in the Daily Papers, concerning the + accuracy of the two following Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of Mungo Park's Death; the following Observations, by the + Author, are laid before the Public in elucidation of those + Translations_. + + The following is a copy of a letter, supposed to be a description + of Mungo Park's death; brought to England from Ashantee in Africa, + by Mr. Bowdich; and that gentleman assured me, about six months + after his arrival in England, and a few days previous to the + publication of his interesting account of a mission to Ashantee, + that he had by every means in his power endeavoured, but + ineffectually, to get this manuscript _decyphered_ and translated + into English; that he had sent it to several persons, who had + retained it in their hands a considerable time, but had returned it + without a decypher, or even a complete translation. When delivered + into my hands, I transmitted him a _decypher_, and a translation + immediately. The following is my translation, which, in that + gentleman's account of Ashantee, is coupled with another + translation, _not perspicuous, but unintelligible_; for which see + Bowdich's "Account of a Mission to Ashantee," Appendix, No. 2. + + The original Arabic document, of which I have given a decypher in +407 the work before mentioned, is, (for the information of gentlemen + desirous of referring to the same,) deposited in the British + Museum. There are also, in the same work on Ashantee, several + papers decyphered by me, of certain routes in Africa. Now I think + it expedient here, to declare to the public, that whenever the + British Government, the Court of Admiralty, or private individuals, + have stood in need of translations, and decyphers from the Arabic, + they have invariably found it expedient, ultimately, to apply to me + for the same, after having, however, endeavoured ineffectually to + procure their information at the Universities, the Post Office, and + elsewhere: but as this declaration may appear to many incredible, I + will mention three instances in elucidation of this my assertion, + which, as they are all on record, will place this fact beyond + doubt. + + 1st. A vessel under Marocco colours, was, during last war, taken by + a British cruiser, and sent or brought into Plymouth, or other + port, in England. The captain and the ship were detained a + considerable time here; the former, at length, whose patience + became exhausted, expostulated at his detention, and insisted on + being released, if no interpreter in this commercial nation could + be found competent to translate his passport. _Mr. Slade, an + eminent proctor in Doctors' Commons_, then applied to me, after a + detention of, I believe, two months, and I translated the passport. +408 Mr. Slade very liberally told me, that whatever I chose to charge + for this service, which he had _sought in vain to accomplish_, + should be gratefully paid. I charged five guineas; and it was + instantly paid. The passport consisted of two lines and a half. + This was in the Court of Admiralty. Mr. Slade, who is an honourable + and respectable man, will of course not hesitate to corroborate the + accuracy of this statement. + + 2d. A letter was written by the present Sultan Soliman, emperor of + Marocco, &c. to our late revered sovereign, George III., in a more + courteous style than is usual for Muhamedan potentates to write to + Christian kings; with liberal offers on the part of the Sultan, + courting an augmentation of friendly intercourse, &c. This letter + (contrary to the usual courtesy of European courts) was neglected + some months, no answer being returned to it. It was sent to the + Universities for translation, but ineffectually; then to the Post + Office; and, at the expiration of some months, it was accidentally + transmitted to me, through the hands of the Right Honourable + Spencer Perceval, at that time Chancellor of the Exchequer, and I + delivered, at the request of that gentleman, a translation of it in + English. This letter was ten or fifteen times as long as the + passport before mentioned, and I charged thirty pounds for the + service. But the Treasury thought ten pounds a sufficient + remuneration, which I accepted!! +409 + This service was rendered to the British government, and I have + letters and documents in my possession, which corroborate this + fact. + + 3d. Was the translation of an Arabic manuscript, respecting Mungo + Park's death; delivered gratuitously to a private individual, viz. + Mr. Bowdich, before mentioned; to satisfy the curiosity of my + country, whose interest was excited respecting the fate of that + enterprising and indefatigable African traveller. Mr. Bowdich, who + is an honourable man, will undoubtedly confirm the truth of this + statement, to any gentleman who may be desirous of ascertaining the + fact. + + _The Shereef Ibrahim's account of Mungo Park's Death_. + + (THE AUTHOR'S TRANSLATION.) + + "In the name of God, the Merciful and Clement! + + "This narrative proceeds from the territory in Husa, called Eeaurie + or Yeaurie. We observed an extraordinary event or circumstance, but + we neither saw nor heard of the river which is called Kude. And as + we were sitting we heard the voice of children; and we saw a + vessel, the like to which in size we never saw before. And we saw + the king of Eeaurie send cattle and sheep, and a variety of + vegetables, in great abundance. And there were two men and one + woman, and two slaves; and they tied them in the vessel. There were +410 also in the vessel two white men, of the race called Christians: + and the Sultan of Eeaurie called aloud to them, to come out of the + vessel, but they would not. They proceeded to the country of Busa, + which is greater than that of the Sultan of Eeaurie. And as they + were sitting in the vessel, they hung[232], or were stopped by the + cape, or head-land of Kude." + + [Footnote 232: Probably by an impetuous current.] + + "And the people of the sultan of Busa called to them, and poured + their arms into the vessel; and the vessel reached the head-land or + cliff, and became attached or fixed to the head of the mountain or + projection in the river, and could not pass it. Then the men and + women of Busa collected themselves hostilely together, with arms of + all descriptions; and the vessel being unable to clear the + head-land, the man in the vessel killed his wife, and threw the + whole of her property into the river; they then threw themselves + into the river through fear. The news of this occurrence was then + conveyed to the Sultan Wawee, until it reached, by water, the + territory of Kanjee, in the country of the Sultan Wawee. And we + buried it in its earth; and one of them we saw not at all in the + water. And God knows the truth of this report from the mouth of the + Shereef Ibrahim. The end." + +411 OBSERVATION. + + After giving the foregoing translation, it behoves me to inform the + intelligent reader, that I wrote a letter to Mr. Bowdich, + communicating to him my observations on several notes, transmitted + to him by Sir William Ouseley, on the manuscript of which the + foregoing is a translation, in which I informed him, that in + decyphering the Arabic manuscript, I had observed the Oriental or + Asiatic punctuation; knowing that Mr. Bulmer had not letters with + the occidental punctuation. Several observations I made, respecting + the Arabic manuscripts which could not be elucidated here without + the Arabic type. I shall, therefore, omit them, and conclude by + observing, that in translating this manuscript, two gentlemen + (Arabic scholars) had translated _akkadan Fie Asfeena_, "two maids + in the ship;" which words I have translated, "were tied or bound in + the vessel:" the word _akkadan_ being the preterite of the verb + _akkad_, to bind. I was not surprised to hear that _one_ translator + had made such an interpretation; knowing that incredible errors + have been frequently committed by professed Professors in the + Hebrew language as well as in the Arabic. But when I heard, as I + did, that another Arabic scholar had given a similar + interpretation, I must confess that I was not a little surprised. + However, a circumstance soon after unravelled the mystery; for I + discovered that these two gentlemen, at a loss no doubt to +412 ascertain the meaning of _akkadan_, had referred to Richardson's + Arabic Dictionary, wherein the word is quoted to signify, in a + figurative sense, a virgin. _In a figurative sense!_ In translating + an ill-written, illiterate, and ungrammatical manuscript, these two + translators had had recourse to _rhetorical figures_, and actually + substituted a trope for what was a verb, generally used in the + West, signifying "to bind!" + + As it has been asserted in the following extract, that my + translation of the foregoing manuscript differs _only in a trifling + degree_ from that of Mr. Abraham Salame, I here insert my answer to + that assertion, leaving the intelligent reader to determine, + whether they are alike or materially different. + + _Extract from The Times, 3d May, 1819_. + + MUNGO PARK. + + The death of this enterprising traveller is now placed beyond any + doubt. Many accounts of it have been received, and although varying + as to the circumstances attending it, yet all agreeing that it has + taken place. One statement was given to Mr. Bowdich, while on his + mission to the King of the Ashantees, in 1817, by a Moor, who said + that he was an eye-witness; and the same gentleman procured an + Arabic manuscript declaratory of Mr. Park's death. This manuscript + has been deposited with the African Association, formed for the +413 purpose of extending researches in that part of the world. Two + translations have been made of this curious document; one by Mr. + Salame, an Egyptian, who accompanied Viscount Exmouth in his attack + on Algiers, as interpreter; and the other by Mr. Jackson, formerly + consul at one of the Barbary courts. The following is Mr. Salame's + translation, from which, however, _the one by Mr. Jackson only + differs in a trifling degree_. The words in italics have been + inserted by Mr. Salame, in order to render the reading more + perfect, and are not in the original:-- + + _A literal Translation of a Declaration written in a corrupted + Arabic, from the Town of Yaud, in the Interior of Africa_. + + "'In the name of God, the merciful and the munificent. This + declaration is issued from the town called Yaud, in the county of + Kossa. We (the writer) do witness the _following_ case (statement.) + We never saw, nor heard of the sea (river) called Koodd; but we sat + to hear (understood) the voice (report) of some persons, _saying_, + 'We saw a ship, equal to her we never saw before; and the King of + Yaud had sent plenty of every kind of food, with cows and sheep; + _there_ were two men, one woman, two male slaves, and two maids in + the ship; _the_ two white men _were_ derived from the race (sect) +414 of Nassri (Christ, or Christianity.) The King of Yaud asked them to + come out to him (to land); but they refused coming out (landing); + and they went to the _King_ of the country of Bassa, who is greater + than the King of Yaud; and _while_ they _were_ sitting in the ship, + and gaining a position (rounding) over the Cape of Koodd, and + _were_ in society with the people of the King of Bassa, the ship + reached (struck) a head of mountain, which took (destroyed) _her_ + away, and the men and women of Bassa all together, with every kind + of arms (goods); and the ship could find no way to avoid the + mountain; and the man who _was_ in the ship, killed his wife, and + threw all his property into the sea (river), and _then_ they threw + themselves _also_, from fear. Afterwards they took one _out of the_ + water till the news reached the town of Kanji, the country of the + King of Wawi; and the King of Wawi heard of it; he buried him in + his earth (grave), and the other we have not seen; perhaps he is in + the bottom of the water. And God knows best.' Authentic from the + mouth of Sherif Abraham.--Finis.' + + "In addition to the foregoing, another corroboration has been + obtained. Lieut. Col. Fitzclarence, when on his voyage down the + Mediterranean on board the _Tagus_ frigate, Capt. Dundas, with + despatches from the Marquis of Hastings, learnt from the governor + to the two sons of the Emperor of Marocco, who had been on a + pilgrimage to Mecca, and were then returning home, that he (Hadjee +415 Tahib) had been at Timbuctoo in 1807, and had heard of _two white_ + men, who came from the sea, having been near that place the year + before; and that they sold beads, and had no money to purchase + grain. This person added, that they went down the _Nile_ to the + eastward, and that general report stated that they _died of the + climate_. There can be little doubt but the _two white_ men here + alluded to were Mr. Park and his companion, Lieutenant Martyn, who + were at Sandsanding in Nov. 1805, and could, in the following year, + have been near Timbuctoo. Sandsanding is the place from whence the + last dispatches were dated by Mr. Park; and Amadi Fatouma, who was + his guide afterwards, was sent to learn his fate, and returned with + an account of Mr. Park being drowned. The statement of this person + was, however, of such a nature as to excite suspicions of its + correctness; and hopes were entertained that Mr. Park had not met + with such an untimely fate. Fourteen years have now almost elapsed + since the date of his last dispatches; and this circumstance is of + itself sufficient to demonstrate, that he is to be added to the + catalogue of those who have perished in their attempts to explore + the interior of Africa.--_Englishman_." + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE BRITISH STATESMAN. + + Sir;--Seeing in your Paper of yesterday a translation of the Arabic +416 manuscript respecting Mr. Mungo Park's death, which is deposited + with the African Association, and _decyphered and transcribed by + me_ in Mr. Bowdich's account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480, and + perceiving that the errors in _that translation_ are thus + propagated to the public through the medium of the London Papers; + which although perhaps of little consequence to the general reader, + yet, as they are of importance to the critic, and to the + investigator of African affairs, I shall take the liberty of + offering a few observations on the subject. + + The following passage, in the translation above alluded to, might + have passed the public eye without animadversion as the language of + a foreigner, (as we have understood Mr. Salame to be,) but from the + intelligent Editor of a London daily paper, might we not have + expected more correct phraseology?[233] + + [Footnote 233: "The phrases thus objected to by our learned + Correspondent, were contained in the translations furnished to + us in common with other papers, and not the language of the + Editor. Indeed, this appears to be admitted by our + Correspondent himself, in the apparently very just comments he + has thus favoured us with.--EDITOR."] + + "The ship reached a head of mountain which took her away, and the + men and women of Bassa, altogether with every kind of arms, and the + ship could find no way to avoid the mountain." + + I have no hesitation in declaring to be incorrect the first two +417 lines of Mr. Abraham Salame's translation, inserted in your paper + of yesterday, which runs thus:-- + + "_This declaration is issued from the town called YAUD, in the + country of KOSSA_." + + My translation of this passage, inserted in Mr. Bowdich's account + of a Mission to Ashantee, page 478, runs thus:-- + + "_This narrative proceeds from the territory in HAUSA called + ECAUREE_." + + No one, I presume, will say that there is not a _manifest_ + difference between these two translations--between _the town called + Yaud, in the country of Kossa_, and the _territory of Hausa, called + Ecauree_. + + One of these translations must therefore necessarily be incorrect. + The Arabic manuscript decyphered and transcribed by me, is inserted + in Mr. Bowdich's work, page 480. Those who may feel interested in + ascertaining which is the correct and precise translation, are + requested to refer to the transcript above-mentioned, or to the + original manuscript, in the possession of the African Association. + As for myself, I presume I am right; and would submit the decision + to the judgment of either Sir Gore Ousley, or to that of Sir + William, or to the opinion of any Arabic scholar, to decide this + question. + + If, Mr. Editor, you had an Arabic type, to save the trouble of + referring to the original, I should ask the Arabic scholar if it + were possible for any man to translate the following passage in +418 that document:--"Bled Hausa eekalu Ecuree"--"the town called Yaud, + in the country of Cossa;" whilst I should maintain that it would + admit of no other translation but the following, viz.--"the country + of Hausa, called Ecauree." + + If you think this elucidation of the translation of the Manuscript + of Park's death sufficiently interesting to the public to deserve a + place in your intelligent paper, it is very much at your service. + + From, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + JAMES GREY JACKSON, + + Professor of African Languages, and formerly British Consul and + Agent for Holland, Sweden, and Denmark, at Santa Cruz, South + Barbary.[234] + + _Circus, Minories, May 4._ 1819. + + [Footnote 234: See BRITISH STATESMAN, May 6th, 1819.] + +419 + + LETTERS RESPECTING AFRICA, + FROM + _J.G. JACKSON AND OTHERS._ + + + + + _On the Plague._ + + To JAMES WILLIS, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. + + London, October 30, 1804. + + My dear Sir, + + Your letter reached my hands yesterday; but I am afraid I shall not + be able to satisfy you in every enquiry which you have made + relative to the plague in Barbary in 1799. I have, however, no + doubt but the plague which has prevailed in Spain has originated + from it. Some of the following observations may probably be of + service to you. + + It does not appear to be ascertained how the plague originated in + Fas in the year 1799. Some persons have ascribed it to infected + merchandise received at Fas from the East; whilst others maintain + that the locusts which had infested Western Barbary during seven + years, destroying the crops, the vegetables, and every green thing, + even to the bark of the trees, produced such a scarcity, that the +420 poor could obtain scarcely any thing to eat but the locusts; and + living on them for several months, till a most abundant crop + enabled them to satisfy the cravings of nature, they ate abundantly + of the new corn, which producing a fever, brought on the contagion. + At this time the small-pox pervaded the country, and was generally + fatal. The small-pox is thought to be the forerunner of this + species of contagion, as appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, + which gives a full account of the same disorder having carried off + two-thirds of the inhabitants of West Barbary about four hundred + years since; but, however the dreadful epidemy originated, the + leading features of the disorder were novel, and more dreadful than + the common plague of Turkey, or that of Syria or Egypt, as the + following observations will demonstrate. + + In the month of April, 1799, a plague of the most dreadful kind + manifested itself at the city of Old Fas, which soon after + communicated itself to the new city. About this time the Emperor + Muley Soliman ben Muhamed was preparing a numerous army, and was on + the eve of departure to visit his Southern dominions, and to take + possession of the province of Abda, which had not acknowledged him + as Emperor, but was, as well as the port of Saffy, in a state of + rebellion. The Emperor left Fas early in the summer, and proceeded + to Sallee, Mazagan, and Saffee; thence to Marocco and Mogodor. Now + the plague began to kindle in all the Southern provinces, first + carrying off one or two the first day, three or four the second +421 day, six or eight the third day, and increasing progressively till + it amounted to a daily mortality of two in a hundred of the whole + population; continuing _with unabated violence_, ten, fifteen, + twenty days, being of longer duration in old than in new towns; + then diminishing in a progressive proportion from one thousand + a-day, to nine hundred, to eight hundred and so continuing to + decrease till it disappeared. + + When it raged at the town of Mogodor, a small village (Deabet) + situated two miles South-east of Mogodor remained uninfected, + although the communication was open between these two places. On + the thirty-fourth day after its first appearance at Mogodor, this + village received the infection, where, after committing dreadful + havock among the human species for twenty-one days carried off one + hundred persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, the population + of the village before the plague visited it. After this, none died; + but those who were infected recovered, some losing the use of a + leg, or an arm, or an eye. + + Many similar circumstances might be mentioned relative to the + numerous villages scattered about the extensive province of Haha, + all which shared the like, or a worse fate. Travelling through this + province after the plague had disappeared, I saw many ruins, which + had been flourishing villages before the plague. Making enquiry + concerning the population of these dismal remains of the +422 pestilence, I was informed, that one village contained six hundred + inhabitants; that only four had escaped. Others, which had + contained four and five hundred, had left seven or eight to lament + the calamities they had suffered. + + Whenever any families retired to the country, to avoid the + infection; on returning to town, when apparently all infection had + disappeared, they were generally attacked, and died. The + destruction of the human species in the province of Upper and + LowerSuse was much greater than elsewhere. The capital city of this + province (Tarodant) lost, when the infection was at its _acme_, + about eight hundred each day; the city of Marocco lost one thousand + each day; the cities of Old and New Fas from twelve to fifteen + hundred each day; insomuch, that, in these large towns, the + mortality was such, that the living had not time to bury the dead: + they were therefore thrown altogether into large holes, which were + covered over when full of dead bodies. + + Young and healthy robust persons were generally attacked first; + then women and children; lastly, thin, sickly, and old people. + _After the plague had totally subsided, we saw men, who had been + common labourers, enjoying their thousands, and keeping horses, + without knowing how to ride them. Provisions became extremely + cheap, for the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and + had nobody now to own them. Day-labour increased enormously. Never +423 was equality in the human species more evident than at this time_. + _When corn was to be ground, or bread made, both were done in the + houses of the rich, and prepared by themselves; for the very few + poor people whom the plague had spared were insufficient for the + wants of the affluent, and they were consequently obliged to work + for themselves_. The country being now depopulated, vast tribes of + Arabs from the Desert poured into Suse and Draha; settling + themselves on the river Draha and in Suse, and wherever they found + little or no population. + + The symptoms of the disorder varied in different patients; in some + it manifested itself by a sudden shivering, in others by delirium, + succeeded by a violent thirst. Cold water was drank eagerly by the + imprudent, and generally proved fatal. Some had one, two, or three, + some more biles, generally in the groin, under the arm, or near the + breast; some had more. Some had no biles, nor any outward + disfiguration; these were invariably carried off in less than + twenty-four hours. I recommended Mr. Baldwin's remedy[235], applied + according to his directions; and I do not know one instance of its + failing, when properly applied, and sufficiently persevered in. + + [Footnote 235: Of unction of the body with olive oil.] + + I have no doubt but the epidemy, which has been ravaging Spain + lately, is the same disorder with the one above described. We have + been told that it was communicated originally to Spain by two +424 infected persons, who went from Tangier to Estapona, and eluded the + vigilance of the guards. We have been assured that it was + communicated by some persons infected, who landed in Spain from a + vessel that had loaded produce at Laraich, in West Barbary. We have + also been informed that a Spanish privateer, which had occasion to + land its crew for water in some part of West Barbary, caught the + infection, and afterwards went to Cadiz and communicated it to the + town. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + _Death of Mungo Park_. + + May, 1812. + + The doubts which may have existed of the fate of this eminent man + are now removed, by the certain accounts lately received from + Goree, of his having perished, through the hostility of the + natives, on one of the branches of the Niger. The particulars have + been transmitted to Sir Joseph Banks, by Governor Maxwell, of + Goree, who received them from Isaco[236], a Moor, sent inland by + the Governor, for the purpose of enquiry. In a letter to Mr. + Dickson, of Covent-garden, brother-in-law to Mr. Park, Sir Joseph + thus writes:-- + + "I have read Isaco's translated journal; by which it appears, that +425 the numerous European retinue of Mungq Park quickly and miserably + died, leaving, at the last, only himself and a Mr. Martyn. + Proceeding on their route, they stopped at a settlement, from + which, according to custom, they sent a present to the chief whose + territory they were next to pass. This present having been + treacherously withheld, the chief considered it, in the travellers, + as a designed injury and neglect. _On their approaching, in a + canoe, he assembled his people on a narrow channel of rocks[237], + and assailed them so violently with arrows, that some of the rowers + were killed_. This caused Mr. Park and Mr. Martyn to make an effort + by swimming to reach the shore; in which attempt they both were + drowned. The canoe shortly afterwards sunk, and only one hired + native escaped. Every appurtenance also of the travellers was lost + or destroyed, except a sword-belt which had belonged to Mr. Martyn, + and which Isaco redeemed, and brought with him to Goree." + + [Footnote 236: Isaco was a Jew, not a Moor.--J.G.J.] + + [Footnote 237: There is a remarkable confirmation of this + quotation from Sir Joseph's letter in Mr. _Jackson's_ + translation of the Arabic manuscript of Mungo Park's death, for + which see Bowdich's Account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480.; + also Annals of Oriental Literature, No. I.] + + _Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the Interior of + Africa_. + + May, 1812. + + The young German gentleman of the name of Rontgen, who left England +426 about a twelve-month since for Africa, in order to prosecute + discoveries in the interior of that country, has, it is said, been + murdered by the Arabs, before he had proceeded any great distance + from Mogodor, where he spent some time perfecting himself in the + Arabic language. He was a promising young man, and an enthusiast in + the cause in which he was lost, and supposed to understand the + Arabic language better than any European who ever before entered + Africa. At an early age he formed the plan of going to that + country, and gave up his connections and a competency in Germany, + to prosecute his intentions. His father was a character well known + in Europe, who raised himself from obscurity to the greatest + celebrity by his talent for mechanics. He was at one time worth a + million, but was ruined by the French revolution. + + _The following Letter from James Willis, Esq. late Consul to + Senigambia, is extracted from the Gentleman's Magazine for May, + 1812_. + + COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. + + May 5. 1812. + + At a time when our ancient rivals and enemies are exerting all + their powers to destroy the British commerce, and have nearly + effected their gigantic schemes of cutting off all communication + between Great Britain and the various ports, states, and kingdoms + of Europe; at such a time when we are in imminent danger of losing +427 the markets of a quarter of the globe, it becomes essentially + important to discover other channels for our commerce, and other + markets for our manufactures. + + In this point of view, the information lately communicated to the + public by Mr. James Grey Jackson, in his "Travels in Africa," + becomes highly interesting to the statesman as well as to the + merchant. From the account which he has given of the city of + Timbuctoo, and its commercial relations, there is great reason to + conclude, that if we could find means to open and maintain a safe + and easy communication with that great emporium, and with the rich, + fertile, and populous regions in its vicinity, we might acquire a + market for our manufactures, that would in time compensate for the + loss of that of Europe. + + In the warehouses of Timbuctoo, are accumulated the manufactures of + India and of Europe; and from thence the immense population that + dwells upon the banks of the Niger is supplied. There is no doubt + that we could furnish the articles they want, upon much lower terms + than they can obtain them at present; and, in return, we should + furnish the best market they could have for their gold, ivory, + gums, and other rich products, and raw materials. + + Now, it certainly appears to me, and I think it must appear to + every man who takes the trouble of investigating the subject, that, + provided Government would give proper support to the enterprise, + this important communication might easily be established. _For this +428 purpose, nothing more is necessary than to take a fortified station + upon the African coast, somewhere about the 29th degree of north + latitude, near the confines of the Marocco dominions, to serve as a + safe magazine or emporium for merchandize. From this station it + would be easy to maintain a direct correspondence with the opulent + merchants of Timbuctoo; regular caravans might be established to + depart at fixed periods; the protection of the Arabs can at all + times be purchased at stipulated prices, which may be considered as + premiums of insurance, or as a tax for convoy_, and thus in a + little time these caravans might carry out merchandize, to and from + Timbuctoo, with as much regularity and safety, and with less + expense, than our fleets convey our goods to and from the West + Indies. + + The expense of such a fortified station as is here proposed, would + be very moderate, in comparison with the advantages it would + produce; and it would be easy to draw out a plan for it; but I do + not think it would be proper to go into a detail here,--_"non est + hic locus."_ + + It has been well observed, that commerce is the key of Africa; and + I shall only add, that if the plan I have suggested were carried + into execution, these interesting regions of Africa, that have + heretofore baffled the attempts of curiosity and enterprise, and + remained for so many ages a "sealed book" to the inhabitants of + Europe, would soon be explored and laid open. This is an object +429 that cannot be indifferent to a prince, who has so evidently + evinced a desire to patronise science, and who is undoubtedly + desirous to encourage, to facilitate, and to increase, still + further the vast geographical discoveries which have added such + lustre to the reign of his august father. + + To return to Mr. Jackson's book. This work contains, besides the + information that more directly concerns the statesman and the + merchant, much interesting matter for the natural and moral + philosopher, as well as for the general reader. The author makes no + pretension to fine writing; his style is plain, unaffected, and + perspicuous, and there is as much new, authentic, and important + matter in the book, as in the hands of the French writers of + African travels, (Golberry, Vaillant, and Savary, for instance,) + would have been spread over three times the space. Upon the whole, + it is the most valuable work of the kind that has appeared for many + years. I hope the author will reap the reward which his labours + have so well deserved. + + JAMES WILLIS. + + _Of the Venomous Spider.--Charmers of Serpents.--Disease called + Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness.--Remedy for Consumption in + Africa.--Western Branch of the Nile, and Water Communication + between Timbuctoo and Egypt_. + + Sir, + + The venomous spider (_Tendaraman_). This beautiful reptile is + somewhat similar to a hornet in size and colour, but of a rounder +430 form; its legs are about an inch long, black, and very strong; it + has two bright yellow lines, latitudinally crossing its back; it + forms its web octagonally between bushes, the diameter being two or + three yards; it places itself in the centre of its web, which is so + fine, as to be almost invisible, and attaches to whatever may pass + between those bushes. It is said to make always towards the head, + before it inflicts its deadly wound. In the cork forests, the + sportsman, eager in his pursuit of game, frequently carries away on + his garments the _tenderaman_, whose bite is so poisonous, that the + patient survives but a few hours. + + Charmers of serpents (_Aisawie_).--These _Aisawie_ have a + considerable sanctuary at Fas. They go to Suse in large bodies + about the month of July to collect serpents, which they pretend to + render harmless by a certain form of words, incantation, or + invocation to _Seedy ben Aisah_, their tutelary saint. They have an + annual feast, at which time they dance and shake their heads + quickly, during a certain period, till they become giddy, when they + run about the towns frantic, attacking any person that may have a + black or dark dress on; they bite, scratch, and devour any thing + that comes in their way. They will attack an _unjumma_, or portable + fire, and tear the lighted charcoal to pieces with their hands and + mouths. I have seen them take the serpents, which they carry about, + and devour them alive, the blood streaming down their clothes. The +431 incredible accounts of their feats would fill a volume; the + following observations may suffice to give the reader an idea of + these extraordinary fanatics. The _buska_ and the [238]_el effah_ + are enticed out of their holes by them; they handle them with + impunity, though their bite is ascertained to be mortal; they put + them into a cane basket, and throw it over their shoulders: these + serpents they carry about the country, and exhibit them to the + people. I have seen them play with them, and suffer them to twist + round their bodies in all directions, without receiving any injury + from them. I have often enquired how they managed to do this, but + never could get any direct or satisfactory answer; they assure you, + however, that faith in their saint, and the powerful influence of + the name of the divinity, (_Isim Allah_,) enables them to work + these miracles: they maintain themselves in a miserable way, by + donations from the spectators before whom they exhibit. This art of + fascinating serpents was known by the ancient Africans, as appears + from the _Marii_ and _Psilii_, who were Africans, and showed proofs + of it at Rome. + + [Footnote 238: For a description of these deadly serpents, see + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. chapter on Zoology.] + + _Bu Telleese Nyctalopia_.--This ophthalmic disease is little known + in the northern provinces; but in Suse and Sahara it prevails. A + defect of vision comes on at dusk, but without pain; the patient is +432 deprived of sight, so that he cannot see distinctly, even with the + assistance of candles. During my residence at Agadeer, a cousin of + mine was dreadfully afflicted with this troublesome disease, losing + his sight at evening, and continuing in that state till the rising + sun. A Deleim Arab, a famous physician, communicated to me a + sovereign remedy, which being extremely simple, I had not + sufficient faith in his prescription to give it a trial, till + reflecting that the simplicity of the remedy was such as to + preclude the possibility of its being injurious, it was applied + inwardly; and twelve hours afterwards, to my astonishment, the + boy's eyes were perfectly well, and continued so during twenty-one + days, when I again had recourse to the same remedy, and it effected + a cure, on one administration, during thirty days, when it again + attacked him; the remedy was again applied with the same beneficial + effect as before. + + _Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia, or Night + Blindness_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA.) + + Sir, + + Having read your animadversions on the additional matter introduced + in my second edition of an "Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo," &c. + (see Literary Panorama for April last, p. 713.) wherein you +433 conceive that I am reprehensible for not having discovered publicly + the remedy alluded to as an infallible cure to the _Butellise_ or + _Nyctalopia_, I should observe that I was not apprised, (till I + read those animadversions,) that this was a disorder incident to + the inhabitants in Europe, or that it affected our seamen on the + Mediterranean station. But, if that be the case, and it should be + found expedient and beneficial to the interests of Great Britain, + that this remedy should be divulged for the alleviation of our + meritorious seamen in His Majesty's service, I am willing to make + the discovery to any respectable medical man who may be appointed + by Government as physician or surgeon on the Mediterranean station. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + May 18. 1812. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA. + + Circus, Minories, June 21. 1815. + + Sir, + + I request you will contradict in your next publication the + assertion of my _decease_, which is calculated to injure + considerably my interests abroad as a merchant. (Vide your Review + of Parke's Travels, page 377.) In answer to this unfounded + information, which has been propagated in your review of last + month, I have to acquaint you that I am not only in the land of the + living, but in excellent health, and waiting to hear the testimony +434 of some stranger or European traveller (since the Africans are not + to be relied on), who shall establish the fact of _the junction of + the Nile of Sudan with that of Egypt; or at least, the + approximation of these two mighty streams_. And notwithstanding + _the_ insidious reflections and censures passed on the native + Africans, from whom I gathered much of the information communicated + to the public in my account of Marocco, it must be allowed by all + liberal-minded men, that a native is more likely to give an + accurate account of his country than a foreigner; and a residence + of sixteen years in a country may be allowed to give a man of + common observation experience enough to select judiciously such + intelligence as might be relied on; and I have no hesitation in + declaring it to be my unalterable opinion, that _so soon as a + traveller shall have returned from the interior of Africa, many of + my assertions respecting those regions will be confirmed_, and that + information founded on the testimony of unprejudiced and + disinterested Africans, will be found not so contemptible as some + learned persons have imagined. + + JAMES G. JACKSON. +435 + + _Critical Observations on Abstracts from the Travels of Ali Bey, + and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, + and the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, + Vol. I. No. II. page 264_. + + London, Dec. 19. 1817. + + In the discussion on Aly Bey's Travels, in the Journal of Science + and the Arts, above mentioned, p. 270. are the following words:-- + + "Aly Bey has added, in a separate chapter, all the information he + received, respecting a mediterranean sea, from a merchant of + Marocco, of the name of Sidi Matte Buhlal, who had resided many + years at Timbuctoo, and in other countries of Sudan or Nigritia, + the most material of which was, that Tombut is a large town, very + trading, and inhabited by Moors and Negroes, and was at the same + distance from the Nile Abid, (or Nile of the Negroes, or Niger,) as + Fez is from Wed Sebu, that is to say, _about three hundred English + miles_." + + As this passage is quoted from Aly Bey, by the first literary + society of Great Britain, and is, therefore, calculated to create a + doubt of the accuracy of what I have said, respecting the distance + of the Nile El Abeed from Timbuctoo, in the enlarged editions of my + account of Marocco, &c. page 297. I consider it a duty which I owe +436 to my country and to myself, not to let this sentence pass through + the press without submitting to the public my observations on the + subject. + + Sidi Matte Buhlal is a native of Fas: the name is properly Sidi El + Mattie Bu Hellal. This gentleman is one out of twenty authorities + from whom I derived the information recorded in my account of + Marocco, respecting Timbuctoo and the interior of Africa; his whole + family, which is respectable and numerous, are among the first + Timbuctoo merchants that have their establishments at Fas. I + should, however, add, that among the many authorities from whom I + derived my information relative to Timbuctoo, there were two + muselmen in particular,--merchants of respectability and + intelligence, who came from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, soon after _I + opened that port to Dutch commerce, in the capacity of agent of + Holland, by order of the then Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid_, + brother and predecessor of the present Emperor Soliman. These two + gentlemen had resided at Timbuctoo, and in other parts of Sudan, + fifteen years, trading during the whole of that period with + Darbeyta, on the coast of the Red Sea, with Jinnie, Housa, Wangara, + Cashna, and other countries of the interior, from whom, and from + others, equally intelligent and credible, I procured my information + respecting the _mediterranean sea in the interior of Africa, called + El Bahar Assudan, i.e. the Sea of Sudan_, situated fifteen days' +437 journey east of Timbuctoo. These two muselmen merchants had amassed + considerable fortunes at Timbuctoo, and were on their journey to + Fas, their native place; but in consequence of a civil war at that + time raging throughout West Barbary, particularly in the province + of Haha, through which it was indispensable that they should pass, + on their way to Fas, they sojourned with me two months; after which + they departed for Fas with a caravan. + + These intelligent Moors gave me much information respecting + Timbuctoo, and the interior countries where they had resided; they + sold me many articles of Sudanic manufacture, among which were + three pieces of fine cotton cloth, manufactured at Timbuctoo, and + some ornaments of pure gold _in or molu_, of exquisite workmanship, + of the manufacture of Jinnie; one of these pieces of Timbuctoo + manufacture, of cotton interwoven with silk, of a square + blue-and-white pattern, dyed with _indigo of Timbuctoo_, I had the + honour to present to the British Museum, in April, 1796[239], where + it is now deposited. + + [Footnote 239: This piece of cloth, about two yards wide and + five long, I had the honour of offering to Sir Joseph Banks, + who declined receiving it; but at the same time suggested that + it was a manufacture deserving public notice, and would be + considered an acceptable present by the British Museum.] + + I have been led into this digression from certain insinuations that + have been[240] insidiously propagated, reflecting on the accuracy +438 of my statements respecting the interior of Africa; and I must add, + that I always have felt, and still feel confident, that in + proportion as we shall become more acquainted with the interior of + this unexplored continent, my account will be so much the more + authenticated: my confidence in this opinion, (however dogmatical + it may appear,) is founded on the original and intelligent sources + of my information; on a long residence and general acquaintance + with all the principal inhabitants of West Barbary, whose + connections lay in Sudan, and at Timbuctoo; in a competent + knowledge and practical acquaintance with the languages of North + Africa, and a consequent ability to discriminate the accuracy of + the sources of my intelligence. + + [Footnote 240: See my letter to the editor of the Monthly + Magazine, for March, 1817; page 125.] + + This being premised, I now proceed to offer to the public my + animadversions on the above quotation from the Journal of Science + and the Arts. + + I have actually crossed the Wed Sebu, or the River Sebu, alluded to + in the above quotation, which passes through the Berebber Kabyl of + Zimure Shelleh; I have crossed the same river several times at the + city of Mequinez, and also at Meheduma, where it enters the + Atlantic Ocean, in lat. 34 deg. 15' north, and from this experimental + knowledge of the course of that river, I can affirm, with + confidence, that it is not inaccurately laid down in my map of West + Barbary[241], and that it is not three hundred English miles from +439 Fas, but only six English miles from that city. I can also assert, + from incontestable testimony, that Tombut, or Timbuctoo, is[242] + not three hundred miles from the Nile El Abeed, but only about + twelve English miles from that stream, the latter being south of + the town. + + [Footnote 241: For which see page 55.] + + [Footnote 242: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 297.] + + Respecting the following passage in the above quoted Journal of + Science and the Arts, p. 272, "This river contains the fierce + animals called _Tzemsah_, which devour men," I shall only observe, + that _Tzemsah_ is the word in Arabic which denominates the + _crocodile_. Farther on, in the same page, we have the words,--"We + must suppose that the Joliba makes at this spot a strange winding, + which gives to the inhabitants of Marocco the opinion they + express." This supposed winding is actually asserted to exist, and + is denominated by the Arabs[243] _El Kose Nile_, i.e. the arch or + curve of the Nile, and is situated between the cities of Timbuctoo + and Jinnie. + + [Footnote 243: Idem, note, p. 305.] + + I should here adduce some further testimony respecting the course + of the Nile El Abeed; but as the quotation from Aly Bey in the + above Journal of Sciences and the Arts, page 271. asserts it to be + towards the east, and again, in page 272. declares it to be towards + the west, such incoherence, I presume, requires no confutation. I + consider that it originates from Moorish inaccuracy. +440 + The _La Mar Zarak_ of Adams, if any such river exists, may be a + corruption of _Sagea el Humra_, i.e. the Red Stream, a river in the + southern confines of Sahara, nearly in the same longitude with + Timbuctoo. This river the late Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid, + announced as the southern boundary of his dominions; but from the + accounts which I have had of it, it was not of that magnitude which + Adams ascribes to the Mar Zarak, nor was it precisely in the + neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, when I was a resident in South Barbary: + rivers, however, _which pass through sandy or desert districts_, + often change their courses in the space of twenty-four hours, by + the drifting of the moving sands impelled by the wind; instances of + which I have myself often witnessed. + + If this river proceeded from the Desert, it might have had the name + of _El Bahar Sahara_, i.e. the River of Sahara; the word _La Mar_ + is a lingua franca, or corrupt Spanish word, signifying the sea, + and might have been used to this poor sailor by a native to make it + the more intelligible to him. Many Spanish words having crept into + the Arabic vocabulary, and are occasionally used by those Africans + who have had intercourse with Europeans. + +441 The next passage for animadversion is as follows:-- + + "The state in which he represented Timbuctoo, and its being the + residence of a Negro sovereign, instead of a muselman." + + The state in which he has represented Timbuctoo, is, I think, + extremely inaccurate; and being a slave, it is more than probable, + that he was placed in a Fondaque[244], or Caravansera, belonging to + the King, which he _mistook_ for his palace; but that his narrative + should be deemed inaccurate, because he has described the town of + Timbuctoo to be under the sovereignty of a Negro prince, is to me + incomprehensible. + + [Footnote 244: Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocoo, &c. + p. 298.] + + The various sources of information that I have investigated, + uniformly declare that sovereign to be a Negro, and that his name + in the year 1800, was Woolo. This account, it appears, is confirmed + by Adams, who says,[245] Woolo was King of Timbuctoo in 1810, and + that he was then old and grey-headed. Some years after the above + period, Riley's Narrative, epitomised in Leyden's Discoveries and + Travels in Africa, vol. i., _speaking of the King of Timbuctoo, + says, this sovereign is a very large, old, grey-headed black man_, + called _Shegar_, which means Sultan. This, however, I must observe + is a misinterpretation of the word _Shegar_, which is an + African-Arabic word, and signifies _red or carrotty_, and is a word + applicable to his physiognomy; but certainly not to his rank:--_Abd +442 Shegar_, a carrotty or red Negro. If these two testimonies, since + 1800, be correct, then the _anachronism_ of which I am accused in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, (title Africa,) + is misapplied. + + [Footnote 245: Since publishing this letter, Mr. Bowdich, in + his Account of Ashantee, pages 194, 195, says, Woolo was King + of Timbuctoo in 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bowdich was at + Ashantee.] + + Many of this king's civil officers, however, in 1800, were + muselmen; but the military were altogether Negroes. + + However fervent the zeal of Muhamedanism may be at Timbuctoo, it is + not, I imagine, sufficient to convert the Negroes, who have not the + best opinion of the Muhamedan tenets. The Negroes, however, are + disposed to abjure idolatry for any other form of religion that + they can be persuaded to think preferable, or that holds out a + better prospect; a convincing proof of which has been seen by the + readiness of the Africans of Congo and Angola, to renounce their + idolatry for the Christian faith, by the conversion of thousands to + that faith by the indefatigable zeal of the catholic missionaries, + when the Portuguese first discovered those countries, and which, if + the Sovereign of Portugal had persevered with that laudable zeal + with which he began to promote the conversion of the Africans, the + inhabitants of those extensive and populous countries might, at + this day, have been altogether members of the Christian church!! +443 + _On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of Timbuctoo, + or of Sudan_. + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE.[246] + + [Footnote 246: Inserted in March, 1817.] + + Sir, + + London, Jan. 25. 1817. + + Having read some annotations, in the Journal of a Mission to the + Interior of Africa, by Mungo Park, in 1805, which are calculated to + persuade some persons, that my Account of the Interior of Africa is + not altogether authentic, I feel myself called upon to offer some + cursory observations to the public, in refutation of those + aspersions. (Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Mungo Park's Second Journey, + in 1805, pages 114. and 115.) + + Although I assert, on the concurrent testimony of the best informed + and most intelligent natives of Sudan, that there exists a + [247]water communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, I do not + maintain that the [248]Nile of Sudan falls into the [249]Nile of + Egypt, but that it hath a communication with it, or with some river +444 that connects itself with the Nile of Egypt, which opinion is + confirmed by Mr. Hornemann, on African authority. + + [Footnote 247: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 310.] + + [Footnote 248: (_Nile el Kabeer_) the Great Nile, (_Bahar el + Abeed_, or _Nile el Abeed_) the Nile of Slaves or Negroes, + (_Nile Sudan_) the Nile of Sudan or Nigritia, are the various + names applied to the river that passes by Timbuctoo, and + through the interior of Sudan, from west to east.] + + [Footnote 249: _Nile Masser_ is the name applied to the Nile of + Egypt.] + + It is very probable that this junction is formed by a stream that + flows westward towards Wangara through the country called [250] + Bahar Kulla, and Lake Dwi, from the source of the Nile of Egypt, or + from that part of the Jibbel Kumri, or Lunar Mountains, which form + the southern boundary of Donga. + + If this be so, the junction of the Nile el Abeed, of Timbuctoo, and + the Bahar el Aheaed of Donga[251], (or more properly the Bahar el + Abeed,) is established, and the water communication between + Timbuctoo and Cairo is proved; admitting, however, that the Negroes + reported by me to have performed the[252] voyage by water, took + their boat or canoe ashore, to ascend the cataracts, in the country + between Wangara and Donga. + + [Footnote 250: _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic term, signifying the + sea altogether, implying an alluvial country, (probably forming + a part of the mediterranean sea of central Africa). See Major + Rennel's Map in the Proceedings of the African Association, + vol. i. 8vo. page 209. lat. N. 10 deg., long. 18 deg..] + + [Footnote 251: Vide Major Kennel's Map in the Proceedings of + the African Association, 8vo. edition, vol. i. page 209.] + + [Footnote 252: Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, + page 312.] + + Mr. Park's annotator, in the spirit of controversy with which he + appears to be endued, may say, the fact of this stream running to +445 the west towards Wangara, cannot be admitted, because Mr. Browne + saw a ridge of mountains extending in that direction; but Mr. + Browne did not ascertain that this was an uninterrupted ridge; the + river might therefore pass through some chasm similar to that which + I have seen in crossing the Atlas Mountains, or through some + intermediate plain. + + The annotator further says[253], "It is needless to comment upon + such hearsay statements, received from an African traveller." This + assertion being calculated to impress on the public mind, that I + founded my hypothesis respecting the junction of the Niles of + Africa on the simple and single statement of one individual African + traveller; I feel it incumbent on me thus publicly to declare, that + _the junction alluded to is founded on the universal and concurrent + testimony of all the most intelligent and well informed native + African travellers_ (for the most part natives of Sudan), not one + of whom differed in this opinion, but unanimously declared it to be + an uncontroverted fact, that the waters of the Nile of Egypt joined + the waters of the Nile el Abeed, which passes near Timbuctoo to the + east; and that there exists, without a doubt, a water communication + between Cairo in Egypt, and Timbuctoo in Sudan. Now, if, as M. de + Bailly observes, "_la verite se fait connaitre par le concours des +446 temoignages_," it must be admitted, by men of liberal sentiments, + that it is somewhat more than a hearsay statement; and what better + foundation can there possibly be for the truth of any geological + fact, than the concurrent testimony of the best-informed natives of + the country described? + + [Footnote 253: Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Park's Second Journey + page 115.] + + With respect to precision being unfavourable to authenticity[254], + I consider this a new dogma; and if I were disposed to confute it, + (but it carries with it its own confutation,) I should point out + many hearsay evidences, precisely recorded in my Account of + Marocco, which have been confirmed already by Ali Bey (El Abassy) + and many others; but "_non est hic locus_." + + J.G. JACKSON. + + [Footnote 254: Vide Appendix, No. II. to Park's Second Journey + page 103.] + + _Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Confirmation of + Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed to his Account of the Empire of + Marocco, &c._ + + London, 16th Jan, 1818. + + It is a satisfaction to perceive (after a lapse of eight or nine + years since the publication of my account of Marocco and the + interior of Africa), that in proportion as we are becoming better + acquainted with the interior of that continent, my account becomes + more authenticated, notwithstanding the attempts that have been so +447 insidiously made to invalidate it. + + The various hypotheses, for the most part founded in theory, that + have within the last seven years, been adopted respecting the + course of the _Nile el Abeed_ (Niger), are beginning now to fall to + the ground, and the learned and judicious editor of the Supplement + to the New Encyclopedia Britannica, founding his opinions, as it + should seem, upon the facts that have been corroborated respecting + the interior of Africa, has actually adopted my opinion;[255] viz. + + That there is an union of waters between the Nile of Egypt, and + that of Sudan[256]; where the common receptacle is, I have not + ventured to declare, but it is probable that it may be in the Bahar + Kulla[257], in Wangara, or in the [258]Sea of Sudan; the opinion + that the junction is formed in the Sea of Sudan is supported by the + Shereef Imhammed, who saw the Nile at Cashna, and declared that it + was so rapid there from east to west, that vessels could not stem + it. + + [Footnote 255: See my letter to the Editor of the Monthly + Magazine, vol. xliii. March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 256: It is incorrect to say, that the word _Nile_ is + applied, in Africa, to any great river: the name, I can with + confidence declare, is never applied to any river in North + Africa, except the Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan; whoever + has propagated this opinion has mistaken the matter altogether. + See Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. page 540.] + + [Footnote 257: See Major Rennell's Map of North Africa, lat. + north 6 deg., long, west 18 deg., &c.] + + [Footnote 258: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 310.] + +448 Again: Parke's intelligence, in his second journey, demonstrates an + union of waters in the (Baseafeena[259]) Sea of Sudan; for he says, + the current was said to be sometimes one way, and sometimes + another; which I will take the liberty to interpret thus:-- + + That the current from the Eastern Nile, was westward into the Sea + of Sudan, and the current of the Western Nile was eastward into the + same sea of Sudan: thus the current would be sometimes one way, and + sometimes another, making the Sea of Sudan the common receptacle + for the Eastern as well as for the Western Nile. + + Ptolemy's Sea of Nigritia is undoubtedly the same with my Sea of + Sudan; _Lybia Palus_[260] being the Latin denomination, as _Bahar + Sudan_ is the Arabic for the interior lake called the Sea of Sudan; + but whether this sea of Sudan will ultimately prove to be + situated[261] as I have described it, fifteen journies[262] east of + Timbuctoo, or 450 English miles, or as Ptolemy has described it, or + in the intermediate distance between the two extremes, must be left + for future travellers to ascertain. + + [Footnote 259: Another name for the Sea of Sudan, as will + hereafter appear.] + + [Footnote 260: See Ptolemy's Map of North Africa.] + + [Footnote 261: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, page + 310.] + + [Footnote 262: Fifteen journies horse travelling, which are the + journies here alluded to, at thirty miles a-day, is 450 British + miles.] + + The enterprising and indefatigable, the patient and persevering + genius of Burkhardt, deriving incalculable advantages from a long +449 residence in the eastern regions of Africa, may probably decree him + to be the person to clear up this long-contested geographical + point, unless the fascination of Arabian manners, or some Utopia in + the interior regions of that continent, should wean him from the + desire to re-visit his native country. + + This intelligence of Park may be considered some corroboration of + what I have maintained respecting the union of waters between the + Eastern and Western Niles.[263] + + The following testimonies are some confirmation of my report + respecting decked vessels, &c. in the interior of Africa.[264] + + Dr. Stetzen, a German physician residing at Alexandria[265], says, + that he has received intelligence from a pilgrim, on his way to + Mecca, a native of _Ber Noh,_ or _Bernou_[266], that the river + within a mile of the city is as large as the Egyptian Nile, and + overflows its banks; _it is navigated by vessels of considerable + dimensions, carrying sails and oars._ + + [Footnote 263: See Monthly Magazine, March, 1817, page 125.] + + [Footnote 264: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + page 309.] + + [Footnote 265: For full particulars, see New Supp. to Ency. + Brit. article "Africa."] + + [Footnote 266: This Bernou, or according to the Arabic + orthography, _Ber Noh_, is asserted by the Arabs to be the + birth-place of the Patriarch Noah.] + + Mr. Barnes states, that the Niger discharges itself into a large + lake; that he has heard from the Black traders that there are white +450 inhabitants upon the borders of this lake; and has been told, by + people who have seen them, that they dress in the style of Barbary + Moors, and wear turbans, but do not speak Arabic. See Report of + Committee of Council.[267] + + [Footnote 267: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p, 309.] + + Park, in his second journey, was informed, that "one month's travel + south of Baedo, through the kingdom of Grotto, will bring the + traveller to the country of the Christians, who have their houses + on the banks of the _Ba Seafeena_[268], which they describe as + incomparably larger than the lake Dehebby (Dibbie)."--This is + another corroboration of the accuracy of my account of the interior + of Africa; but before I dismiss this subject, I should observe, + that from the general ignorance of the African Arabic, an important + circumstance respecting this _Ba Seafeena_, is not yet (it appears) + discovered. It is this:--the words _Ba Seafeena_, or, according to + the correct Arabic orthography, _Bahar Sefeena_, literally + translated into English, signifies the Sea of Ships, and is + evidently only another name for the Sea of Sudan, declaring it to + be a sea wherein ships are found! + + [Footnote 268: See New Supp. to Ency. Brit. article "Africa."] + + Here then are two topographical facts first asserted by me, among + the moderns, to exist in the heart of Africa, and since confirmed + by Ali Bey, Park, and Dr. Sietzen, or, as the enlightened editor of + the Supplement to the New Encyclopedia Britt. observes, + +451 "We have thus three independent testimonies[269] from opposite + quarters, meeting exactly in the same point; nor does there, as far + as we know, exist any evidence _at all respectable_ to the + contrary." + + [Footnote 269: The testimonies here alluded to are Hornman, + Park, and Jackson.] + + It now remains for me to declare (that as opinions have been + industriously propagated tending to discredit my account of + Marocco, and the interior of Africa,) that nothing has been set + down therein, until I had previously investigated the + qualifications of the narrators, their means of knowledge, and + whether the respective vocations of the several narrators made it + their interest to disguise or misrepresent the truth of their + communications; and, after ascertaining these important points, I + have generally had recourse to other testimonies, and have seldom + recorded any thing until confirmed by three or four _concurrent_ + evidences: on this _pyramidical basis_ is founded the intelligence + in my account of Marocco, and of the interior of Africa, annexed to + that account. + + This assertion is to be understood in respect to intelligence that + I could not ascertain by ocular demonstration. + + Finally, my description of the black heartheaded serpent, called +452 Bouska[270], has been doubted; but a late traveller[271] has + confirmed the accuracy of my account; even of this extraordinary + animal.--In Riley's Narrative of his Shipwreck on the +453 Coast of Sahara is given an account of an exhibition by two + _Isawie_[272], who do not appear to have been adepts in the art of +454 fascinating these serpents; for I have frequently seen them manage +455 and charm the _Bouska_ much more adroitly than those who exhibited + at Rabat before Riley, although its bite is more deadly, and its + strength considerably greater, than that of the _El Effah!_ + + [Footnote 270: See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. + p. 109.] + + [Footnote 271: "I paid two dollars for a station, and I looked + into the room without interruption. It was about twenty feet + long, and fifteen broad, paved with tiles and plastered within. + The windows had also been secured by an additional grating made + of wire, in such a manner as to render it impossible for the + serpents to escape from the room: it had but one door, and that + had a hole cut through it six or eight inches square: this hole + was also secured by a grating. In the room stood two men, who + appeared to be Arabs, with long bushy hair and beards; and I + was told they were a particular race of men, that could charm + serpents. + + "A wooden box, about four feet long and two wide, was placed + near the door, with a string fastened to a slide at one end of + it; this string went through a hole in the door. The two + serpent-eaters were dressed in haiks only, and those very small + ones. After they had gone through their religious ceremonies + most devoutly, they appeared to take an eternal farewell of + each other: this done, one of them retired from the room, and + shut the door tight after him. The Arab within seemed to be in + dreadful distress. I could observe his heart throb, and his + bosom heave most violently: and he cried out very loudly, + "_Allah houakiber_", three times; which is, as I understood it, + _God have mercy on me_.[273] + + "The Arab was at the farthest end of the room: at that instant + the cage was opened, and a serpent crept out slowly; he was: + about four feet long, and eight inches in circumference; his + colours were the most beautiful in nature, being bright, and + variegated with a deep yellow, a purple, a cream colour, black + and brown, spotted, &c. As soon as he saw the Arab in the room, + his eyes, which were small and green, kindled as with fire; he + erected himself in a second, his head two feet high; and + darting on the defenseless Arab, seized him between the folds + of his haik, just above his right hipbone, hissing most + horribly; the Arab gave a horrid shriek, when another serpent + came out of the cage. This last was black, very shining, and + appeared to be seven or eight feet long, but not more than two + inches in diameter: as soon as he had cleared the cage, he cast + his _red fiery eyes_ on his intended victim, thrust out his + forked tongue, _threw himself into a coil, erected his head, + which was in the centre of the coil_, three feet from the + floor, and flattening out the skin above his head and eyes, in + the form, and nearly of the size of a human heart, and + springing like lightning on the Arab, struck its fangs into his + neck near the jugular vein, while his tail and body flew round + his neck and arms in two or three folds. The Arab set up the + most hideous and piteous yelling, foamed and frothed at the + mouth, grasping the folds of the serpent, which were round his + arms with his right hand, and seemed to be in the greatest + agony, striving to tear the reptile from around his neck, while + with his left he seized hold of it near its head, but could not + break its hold: by this time the other had turned itself around + his legs, and kept biting all around the other parts of his + body, making apparently deep incisions: the blood, issuing from + every wound (both in his neck and body,) streamed all over his + haik and skin. My blood was chilled in my veins with horror at + this sight, and it was with difficulty my legs would support my + frame. + + "Notwithstanding the Arab's greatest exertions to tear away the + serpents with his hands, they turned themselves still tighter, + stopped his breath, and he fell to the floor, where he + continued for a moment, as if in the most inconceivable agony, + rolling over, and covering every part of his body with his own + blood and froth, until he ceased to move, and appeared to have + expired. In his last struggle, he had wounded the black serpent + with his teeth, as it was striving, as it were, to force its + head into his mouth, which wound Footnote: seemed to increase + its rage. At this instant I heard the shrill sound of a + whistle, and looking towards the door saw the other Arab + applying a call to his mouth: the serpents listened to the + music, their fury seemed to forsake them by degrees, they + disengaged themselves leisurely from the apparently lifeless + carcase, and creeping towards the cage, they soon entered it, + and were immediately fastened in. + + "The door of the apartment was now opened, and he without ran + to assist his companion: he had a phial of blackish liquor in + one hand, and an iron chissel in the other: finding the teeth + of his companion set, he thrust in the chissel, forced them + open, and then poured a little of the liquor into his mouth; + and holding the lips together, applied his mouth to the dead + man's nose, and filled his lungs with air: he next anointed his + numerous wounds with a little of the same liquid, and yet no + sign of life, appeared. I thought he was dead in earnest; his + neck and veins were exceedingly swollen; when his comrade + taking up the lifeless trunk in his arms, brought it out into + the open air, and continued the operation of blowing for + several minutes before a sign of life appeared; at length he + gasped, and after a time recovered so far as to be able to + speak. The swellings in his neck, body, and legs gradually + subsided, as they continued washing the wounds with clear cold + water and a sponge, and applying the black liquor occasionally; + a clean haik was wrapped about him, but his strength seemed so + far exhausted that he could not support himself standing, so + his comrade laid him on the ground by a wall, where he sunk + into a sleep. This exhibition lasted for about a quarter of an + hour from the time the serpents were let loose until they were + called off, and it was more than an hour from that time before + he could speak. I thought I could discover that the poisonous + fangs had been pulled out of these formidable serpents' jaws, + and mentioned that circumstance to the showman, who said, that + they had indeed been extracted; and when I wished to know how + swellings on his neck and other parts could be assumed, he + assured me, that though their deadly fangs were out, yet that + the poisonous quality of their breath and spittle would cause + the death of those they attack; that after a bite from either + of these serpents, no man could exist longer than fifteen + minutes: and that there was no remedy for any but those _who + were endowed by the Almighty with power to charm, and to manage + them_; and that he and his associates were of that favoured + number! The Moors and Arabs call the thick and beautiful + serpent _El Effah_, and the long black and heartheaded one _El + Bouskah_. + + "I afterwards saw engravings of these two serpents in + _Jackson's Marocco_; which are very correct resemblances. They + are said to be very numerous on and about the south foot of the + Atlas mountains and border of the Desert, where these were + caught when young, and where they often attack both men and + beasts."--Vide _Riley's Shipwreck and Captivity in the Great + Desert_, p. 550.] + + [Footnote 272: Disciples of Seedy ben Isa, whose sanctuary is + at Fas, and who possess the art of fascinating serpents.] + + [Footnote 273: N.B. This is a misinterpretation of the Arabic + words here used, which, literally translated, signify, _God + alone, is great!_--J.G.J.] + + _Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE, INSERTED MAY, 1818.) + + Sir, + + Bennet's-hill, Feb. 1818. + + I should be much surprised to find that Jackson's account of what + he has heard is doubted, if I did not remember that Bruce's account +456 of what he had seen was disbelieved. Nothing human can appear to me + more deserving of implicit credit than the intelligence the former + of these writers gives respecting Timbuctoo. He has not seen it, it + is true. I have not seen Lisbon; but, if I had, and were to sit + down to write an account of it, some things would be necessary to + be described, with regard to which I should feel a degree of + uncertainty; and, having given an account of Lisbon, if I were to + visit it again, I should find others on which I had been mistaken. + But let me arrange in my own mind the information I want respecting + Lisbon; let me make enquiries of twenty intelligent persons who + have resided there; let me carefully compare their different + accounts, and who shall doubt the accuracy of the result? + + Mr. Jackson has had an opportunity of acquiring information + respecting Timbuctoo that no other European ever had, by having the + direction of commerce in a city frequented by Timbuctan merchants; + a city, the port of which is called, in Arabic, _Bab Sudan_, the + Gate of Sudan. Mr. Jackson was qualified to make use of this + advantage to an extent that no other European ever was, by a + practical, and even critical knowledge of the general language of + the country,--the African Arabic. To these Mr. Jackson added an + ardent spirit of research, an industry which neglected no + opportunity, a caution to compare, a judgment to discriminate, and +457 a firmness to decide. Who, that weighs these things, can doubt the + accuracy of his intelligence respecting Sudan? I even regard his + orthography as the standard of correctness, and am surprised that + any person should continue to write Timbuctoo instead of Timbuctoo, + or Fez instead of Fas. + + I am inclined to believe that Adams has been at Timbuctoo, though I + do not consider it as proved; but, supposing that he has, and that + I wished to become acquainted with that city, would I apply for + information to an illiterate slave, who was confined within narrow + precincts? Or would I rely upon the united testimony of twenty + persons of education, who had each a wider field of observation? + + I have read "Jackson's Account of Marocco" twice through, at + different periods, with great attention; and I do most heartily + join in the confidence expressed by the enlightened and judicious + author, that, in proportion as the interior of Africa shall be more + known, the truth of his account of it will be made evident. + + CATHERINE HUTTON. + + _Hints for the Civilisation of Barbary, and Diffusion of Commerce_. + + March 16, 1818. + + Algiers, and the territory belonging to it, is governed by despotic + Turks, the refuse of the Ottoman troops; who maintain their power +458 over the Moors and Arabs of the plains (who are the cultivators of + the country), and over the Berebbers (who are the aborigines of the + country), or inhabitants of the mountains of Atlas, which terminate + this sovereignty on the south, and divide Algiers from + Bled-al-Jereed. The first principle of this barbarous and + sanguinary government, according io an African adage, is to + "_Maintain the arm of power, by making streams qf blood flow, + without intermission, around the throne!_" This country,--the + government of which reflects disgrace on Christendom, which has + been, during many ages the scourge of Christian mariners, and of + all who navigate the Mediterranean Sea,--has often been conquered. + The Romans reduced Numidia and Mauritania into Roman provinces. + This beautiful garden of the world was afterwards conquered by the + Vandals; then by the Greeks, during the reign of Justinian, under + Belisarius; and, finally, three times by the Arabs, viz. in the + 647th year of Christ, by Abdallah and Zobeer; in the year 667, by + Ak'bah for the Kalif Moawiah; and in the year 692, by Hassan, the + governor of Egypt, for the Kalif Abd Elmelik. Not one of the armies + of these warriors ever exceeded 50,000 men. + + After these general conquests, the partial conquests of the + Portuguese and Spaniards, about the end of the fifteenth and + beginning of the sixteenth century, were effected by a mere handful + of men; and, in 1509, the latter rendered the kingdom of Algiers + tributary to them: but, afterwards, they lost it by the ferocity of +459 their chiefs, and by the fanaticism of their soldiers and priests; + and, finally, by their perfidy and intolerance, they made + themselves enemies to the various (_Kabyles_) tribes of Mauritania, + and thereby lost their conquest. + + The repeated insults, offered by these ruffians to civilised + Europe, cannot be efficiently punished by a bombardment; a measure + which punishes many innocent subjects for the insults offered by + their government. No one acquainted with the character of the + natives of Barbary will maintain, that the destruction of a few + thousands of the peaceable inhabitants, or the burning of many + houses, is a national calamity in the eyes of a Muselman chief; who + would himself commit the same ravage and destruction that was so + gallantly effected by the British fleet, under Lord Exmouth, for + half the money it cost to accomplish it. + + When Lord St. Vincent was off Cadiz with the British fleet, and + could not obtain the object which he sought of the Emperor of + Marocco; his Lordship, after refusing to comply with the Emperor's + request, communicated to his Lordship by the Emperor's envoy, or + agent, Rais Ben Embark, told the Rais to inform his Emperor, that, + if he did not change his conduct very soon, he would begin a war + with him, and such a war as he had neither seen nor read of before. + When the Rais reported this to the Emperor Soliman, he enquired + what kind of war an admiral could wage against him; some one of the +460 divan observed, that he would destroy the ports on the coast; + adding, that it would cost a certain large sum of money to effect + that destruction. Upon which the Emperor exclaimed, that, for half + that amount, he would himself destroy all these ports.--This affair + happened in September, 1798. + + There is a prophecy in Barbary, that, from time immemorial, has + been generally credited by the inhabitants. It has been transmitted + to them by some fakeer, that the land of the Muselmen will be + wrested from them by the Christians; and there is an impression, + that the period when this event will take place is not far distant. + They also believe that this event will happen on a Friday (the + Muselman Sabbath), whilst they are occupied at their devotions at + the _Dohor_, service of prayer. Accordingly, at this period,--viz. + from twelve till half-past one o'clock,--the gates of all the + town's on the coast are shut and bolted every Friday. This attack, + forsooth, is to happen whilst they are occupied at prayer, because + they are so infatuated with an opinion of their own valour, that + they will not believe that Christians would presume to attack them + openly, when armed and prepared for the combat. It should seem that + these people begin now seriously to anticipate the near approach of + this predestined conquest, and have accordingly entered into a kind + of holy alliance, offensive and defensive: to which, it is said, + the Emperor of Marocco, and the Deys of Tunis and Tripoli, have + acceded; and that this holy alliance is crowned by the Ottoman + Emperor. +461 + It is more than probable, that the Dey of Algiers, goaded by the + blow inflicted by Lord Exmouth,--which has increased his hatred to + Christians, and has inflamed his desire of revenge,--will not fail + to seek every opportunity (according to the known principles of + Muhamedanism), of retaliating and insulting the Europeans, whenever + a favourable opportunity may offer, even at the risk of another + bombardment. This opinion has been confirmed by his late conduct; + and by the activity that has been manifested in the fortifications, + in increasing their military force, in building and equipping new + vessels, to infest the Mediterranean with their abominable + piracies; all which proceedings demonstrate the hostile intentions + of the Dey beyond all doubt. + + * * * * * + + _Plan for the Conquest of Algiers._ + + The inhabitants of the plains are bigoted to the Muhamedan tenets; + but they would readily exchange the iron rod that rules them for a + more mild and beneficial form of government. A well-disciplined + European army of 50,000 men, would assuredly effect their complete + conquest without much difficulty: such an army, directed by a + Wellington, would perform wonders, and astound the Africans. After + the conquest, an energetic, decisive, but beneficent form of + government, would be necessary, to retain the country, and to +462 conquer and annihilate the repugnancy which these people entertain + to our religious tenets. A system of rule formed on the principles + of the English constitution,--directed by good policy, benevolence, + and religious toleration,--would not fail to reconcile these + hostile tribes, and attach them to rational government. The + Berebbers would readily assimilate to such a government; and, + although by nature a treacherous race, they would rejoice to see + the country in possession of a government which, they would + perceive, strove to promote the welfare and prosperity of the + mountaineers, as well as the inhabitants of the plains; and their + own interest would thus gradually subdue the antipathy resulting + from religious prejudices. + + A general knowledge of the African Arabic would be essentially + necessary; and I think a school might be established in England, on + the Madras system, for initiating youths (going out to Africa) in + the rudiments of that language. This would be attended with most + important advantages; and might be accomplished in a very short + time. The conquest of Algiers being thus effected, that of the + neighbouring states would follow, without difficulty, by a + disciplined army of European troops; keeping the principle ever in + view, of conciliating the natives, without swerving from an + energetic and decisive mode of government. + + The advantages that would necessarily result from a successful + attack upon Africa, would be-- +463 + 1. An incalculable demand for spices, and East India manufactures + of silk and cotton. + + 2. A similar demand for coffees, and for sugars, manufactured and + unmanufactured; as well as for other articles of West India + produce. + + 3. An incalculable demand for all our various articles of + manufacture. + + On the other hand, we should obtain from this fine country,-- + + 1. An immense supply of the finest wheat, and other grain, that the + world produces. + + 2. We should be able to open a direct communication with the + interior regions of Africa,--which have baffled the enterprise of + ancient and modern Europe: the fertile and populous districts which + lie contiguous to the Nile of Sudan, throughout the whole of the + interior of Africa, would become, in a few years, as closely + connected to us, by a mutual exchange of benefits, as our own + colonies; and such a stimulus would be imparted to British + enterprise and industry, as would secure to us such stores of gold + as would equal the riches of Solomon, and immortalize the prince + who should cherish this great commerce to its maturity. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +464 + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + Liverpool, + Dec. 17. 1818. + Sir, + + In "_The Portfolio_," a Monthly Miscellany for May, 1817, published + at Philadelphia, there is rather an interesting review of Ali Bey's + travels. The writer says, "Ali Bey has rectified various errors in + the common maps of Marocco. The river Luccos, for instance, flows + to the South, and not to the North of Alcasser; and the city of + Fas, according to Ali Bey, is situated in 34 deg. 6' north latitude, + and not as laid down in the Maps of Arrowsmith, Rennell, Delille, + Golberri, &c."--If, however, he had given himself the trouble to + consult the map of West Barbary, in Jackson's Account of Marocco, + &c. &c. (which is by far the most accurate extant, and whose + geographical orthography has been adopted in all the best modern + English maps,) he would have seen that Fas is in 34 deg. north + latitude; that the river Elkos, or Luccos, is described in that + map, (which was published several years before Ali Bey's travels,) + as running south of Alcasser. + + In describing the funeral cry at Marocco, the editor, or reviewer, + impresses his reader with an idea that this funeral cry is that of + the Moors, whereas it is no such thing: it is the practice of the + Jews only in West Barbary to cry "Ah! Ah!" and lacerate their faces +465 with their finger nails; after which they wash, drink brandy, and + enjoy themselves. + + The large sea in the interior of Africa, described by Ali Bey to be + without any communication with the Ocean, had been described + (_years before Ali Bey's travels were published_) by Jackson, in + his Account of Marocco, &c. &c. third edition, p. 309, and called + first by him _Bahar Sudan_, and represented as a sea having decked + vessels on it. Mr. Park, in his Second Journey, calls this sea the + Bahar Seafina, without, however, informing the public, or knowing, + that the Bahar Sefeena is an Arabic expression implying a sea of + ships, or a sea where ships are found; and the situation he places + it in coincides exactly with Jackson's prior description. There are + thus three concurrent testimonies of the situation of the Bahar + Sudan, or Sea of Sudan, _first noticed by Jackson_, and since + confirmed by Ali Bey and Park.[274] + + EL HAGE HAMED EL WANGARY. + + [Footnote 274: There is an able discussion of this subject in + the New Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, article + "Africa," p. 104, and 105.] + + _On the Negroes_. + + (TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) + + Sir, + + Eton, 5th Dec. 1818. + + Many maintain that the Negroes are a docile and tractable race, and + more easily to be governed than Europeans; others maintain, that +466 they are liars, thieves, vindictive, and a demoralised race. That + they are vindictive, no one who is acquainted with their character + will deny; but are not most barbarous and uncivilised nations the + same? What are the Muhamedans and Pagans? The latter, who form + nearly two-thirds of the population of the earth, are generally of + the same character, and the vindictive character of the former is + notorious. + + Propagate among the Negroes the benign principles of the Christian + doctrine, and they will gradually (as those principles are + inculcated) become good subjects, and useful members of society. It + is that religion which will bring forth their latent and social + virtues--a religion, the moral principles of which are the + admiration even of its enemies, the Muhamedans themselves: a + religion which exalts the human character above the brutes, and + brings forth its beauties as the brilliancy of the diamond is + brought forth by the hand of the polisher. + + Destroy their witchcraft and idolatry, and on their ruins inculcate + the divine doctrines of Christ, and we shall soon see that they + will possess sentiments that exalt the human character, and that + nothing has contributed more to their mental degradation than the + cruel treatment of their masters in the European colonies of the + West. + + VASCO DE GAMA. +467 + + _Cursory Observations on Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal + of a Route across India, through Egypt, to England_. + + Eton, 7th May, 1819. + + It is remarkable, that in proportion as our mass of information + respecting the interior of Africa increases, the truth of Mr. James + Grey Jackson's account of that country, in the appendix to his + account of Marocco, &c. receives additional confirmation. Some + literary sceptics have been so far prejudiced against this author's + report as to doubt its veracity altogether; but let us see how far + the interesting report of Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence, in his + journal of a route across India, through Egypt, to England, lately + published, corroborates Mr. Jackson's description of Timbuctoo, + published so long since as 1809. + + It is to be lamented, that Jackson's African orthography is not + altogether adopted: with the superior and practical knowledge which + he evidently possesses of the African Arabic language, it cannot, I + presume, be doubted by the learned and impartial, that his + orthography is correct; and, judging from what has already + transpired, I do not hesitate to predict, that his African + orthography, from an evidence of its accuracy, will, in a few + years, be adopted throughout; although the learned world have been + ten years in correcting _Tombuctoo_ into _Timbuctoo_; the latter +468 being Mr. Jackson's orthography in his account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. published in 1809. + + The late account of Mr. Bowdich's mission to Ashantee has been the + first to corroborate this author in this respect; and + Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence has confirmed it with this additional + observation, in his Journal of a Route, &c. page 493: "Upon + enquiring about _Timbuctoo_ the Hage laughed at our pronunciation, + the name of the city being _Timbuctoo_." The next improvement in + African geographical orthography, will probably be the conversion + of Fez into _Fas_ (for there is absolutely no more reason for + calling it Fez than there has been for calling Timbuctoo, + Timbuctoo), this word being spelled in Arabic with the letters _Fa, + Alif_, and _Sin_, which cannot be converted into any other + orthography but _Fas_; the same argument would hold with various + other words spelled correctly by this author, an accurate + elucidation of which might encroach too much upon your valuable + pages. I shall therefore briefly state, that in page 480 of Colonel + Fitzclarence's Journal, the name of the Moorish gentleman to whose + care the sons of the Emperor of Marocco, Muley Soliman, were + confided, is stated to be El Hadge Talib ben Jelow: this is + incorrect orthography, there is no such name in the Arabic language + as _Jelow_, it is a barbarism; ben Jelow signifies ben Jelule, and + the proper name is _El Hage Taleb ben Jelule_. + +469 Behur Soldan is evidently another barbarism or corruption of the + Arabic words _Bahar Sudan: vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, + Timbuctoo, &c. page 309, published by Cadell and Davies. + + It has been observed by an intelligent French writer, that "_Le + pluspart des hommes mesurant leur foi par leur connoissance acquise + croyent A fort peu de choses_." In confirmation of this opinion, + many intelligent men, at the time of the publication of Jackson's + Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo, &c. doubted the existence of the + _Heirie_, as described by him; but in proportion as our knowledge + of Africa improves, we see that the truth of these wonders is + confirmed: and Colonel Fitzclarence mentions one that travelled + four days in one; but we should not be surprised to hear, before + this century shall terminate, that an Englishman had travelled from + Fas to Timbuctoo on a Heirie, accompanied by an accredited agent of + the Emperor of Marocco, in ten or fifteen days! + + It appears by this ingenious traveller's Journal of a Route, &c. + page 493, that all religions are tolerated at Timbuctoo. This is a + confirmation of what is reported by Jackson, in the Appendix + annexed to his Account of Marocco, &c. page 300. + + The fish in the river of Timbuctoo, the Neel El Abeed or Neel of + Sudan, is described by Colonel Fitzclarence as resembling salmon: +470 this is a corroboration of Jackson, who says, the _shebbel_ abound + in the Neel of Sudan, and the shebbel is the African salmon. See + appendix to Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. page 306. + + In page 494, Colonel Fitzclarence says, the Nile at Kabra is a + quarter of a mile wide; Jackson says it is as wide as the Thames at + London. See Appendix to Jackson's Marocco, &c. page 305. + + In page 496 of the Colonel's narrative, an account is given of the + rate of travelling through the Desert; which, allowing for an + arbitrary difference, in the resting days, corroborates Jackson's + Account, page 286. + + In page 497, El hage Taleb ben Jelule's report to the Colonel, of + an account of two white men, (undoubtedly Mungo Park and another,) + who were at Timbuctoo in 1806, is a remarkable confirmation of the + account brought by Mr. Jackson from Mogodor in January, 1807, and + reported by him to the Marquis of Hastings, to Sir Joseph Banks, + and to Sir Charles Morgan, which is inserted in the Morning Post + and other papers, about the middle of August, 1814. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. +471 + + _On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Turkey in Europe, in + Asia, and in Africa_. + + London, May 10, 1819. + + In this enlightened age, when our intercourse is increasing with + nations remote from our own, and possessing different religions, + languages, laws, and customs; when the ambassadors of the Muhamedan + potentates of Europe, Asia, and Africa, are resident in our + metropolis, all understanding _the Arabic language_; when, with a + knowledge of this language, a person may travel and hold colloquial + intercourse with the inhabitants of Turkey, with the greater part + of Asia, and with Africa; and, lastly, when we consider the + valuable and immense stores of Arabian literature, of the best + periods which still remain unexplored, is it not remarkable under + all the exciting circumstances above enumerated, that in this + powerful and opulent country, there should not be found, with all + our boasted learning and eagerness of research, three or four + Englishmen capable of writing and conversing intelligibly in that + beautiful and useful language? The extent of this disgraceful + ignorance would be scarcely credible, were there not proofs beyond + doubt, that our principal seats of learning are as deficient in +472 this knowledge as the public in general[275], and that letters or + public documents written in that language, have been in vain sent + to them for translation. What I have long considered as chiefly + tending to diminish the desire of acquiring this language, is an + opinion dogmatically asserted, and diligently propagated, that the + Arabic of the East and West are so different from each other, as + almost to form distinct languages, and to be unintelligible to the + inhabitants of either of those regions respectively; but, having + always doubted the truth of this assertion, I have endeavoured, + from time to time, _during the last ten years_, to ascertain + whether the Arabic language spoken in Asia be the same with that + which is spoken in Africa, (westward to the shores of the Atlantic + ocean,) but without success, and even without the smallest +473 satisfactory elucidation, until the arrival in London last winter, + of the most _Reverend Doctor Giarve, Bishop of Jerusalem_, who has + given such incontestible proofs of his proficiency in the Arabic + language, that his opinion on this important point cannot but be + decisive; accordingly, on presenting to the reverend Doctor some + letters from the Emperor of Marocco to me, desiring that he would + oblige me with his opinion, whether the Arabic in those letters was + the same with that spoken in Syria, the Rev. Doctor replied in the + following perspicuous manner, which, I think, decides the question: + _"I can assure you, that the language and the idiom of the Arabic + in these letters from the Emperor of Marocco to you, is precisely + the same with that which is spoken in the East."_ + + [Footnote 275: See page 408. respecting a letter sent to our + late revered Sovereign, by the Emperor of Marocco. In + consequence of the inattention to that letter, the Emperor + determined never to write again to a Christian king in the + Arabic language; and, with regard to Great Britain, I believe + he has faithfully ever since kept his word! Some time before + this letter was written, I being then in Marocco, the Emperor's + minister asked me if the Emperor his master were to write an + Arabic letter to the _Sultan George Sultan El Ingleez_, (these + were his expressions,) whether there were persons capable of + translating it into English: I replied, that there were men at + the Universities capable of translating every learned language + in the known world; and accordingly the letter above alluded to + was written in Arabic, and addressed to His Majesty. This + letter was written by the Emperor himself, which I am competent + to declare, having letters from him in my possession, and being + acquainted with his hand-writing and style.] + + It is, therefore, thus ascertained, that the Arabic language spoken + in the kingdom of Tafilelt, of Fas, of Marocco, and in Suse or + South Barbary, is precisely the same language with that which is + now spoken in Syria, and Palestine in Asia; countries distant from + each other nearly 3000 miles, and from information since obtained, + there appears to be no doubt that the Arabic language spoken by the + Arabs in Arabia, by the Moors and Arabs in India and Madagascar, by + the Moorish nations on the African shores of the Mediterranean, are + one and the same language with that spoken in Marocco, subject only + to certain provincial peculiarities, which by no means form +474 impediments to the general understanding of the language, no more, + or not so much so, as the provincial peculiarities of one county of + England differ from another!! + + Unwilling to encroach too much on your valuable pages, I will + leave, for the subject of my next letter, the inconceivable + misconstructions and errors into which the ignorance of this + language has led European travellers in Africa, of which I shall + state some examples in a recent publication respecting Africa. + + I am, Sir, + + Your most obedient Servant, + + JAMES G. JACKSON. + + + _Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted in an + Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward Bowdich, Esq. + showing the Errors that have been committed by European Travellers + on that Continent, from their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the + learned and the general travelling Language of that interesting + part of the World_. + + June 17, 1819. + + The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibber, was invariably described + as dividing in two large streams.--_Vide_ "Bowdich's Account of a + Mission to Ashantee," p. 187. + + The Lake Dibber is called in the proceedings of the African + Association Dibbie, but the proper appellation is _El Bahar Tibber, + _or_ El Bahar Dehebbie_. The Bahar Tibber signifies the sea of gold +475 dust; the _Bahar Dehebbie_ signifies the sea or water abounding in + gold. Jinnee, which is on or near the shore of this lake, (I call + it a lake because it is fresh water,) abounds in gold, and is + renowned throughout Africa for the ingenuity of its artificers in + that metal, insomuch that they acknowledge the superiority of + Europeans in all arts except that of gold work. There are some + specimens of Jinnee gold trinkets, very correctly delineated in the + recent interesting work of "Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's + Journal of a Route across India, through Egypt to England," p. 496. + + Page 187, "Yahoodie, a place of great trade." + + This place is reported to be inhabited by one of the lost tribes of + Israel, possibly an emigration from the tribe of Judah. Yahooda, in + African Arabic, signifies Judah. Yahoodee signifies Jew. It is not + impossible, that many of the lost tribes of Israel may be found + dispersed in the interior regions of Africa, when we shall become + better acquainted with that Continent; it is certain, that some of + the nations that possessed the country eastward of Palestine when + the Israelites were a favoured nation, have emigrated to Africa. + + An emigration of the Amorites[276] are now in possession of the + declivity of the Atlas Mountains, westward of the sanctuary[277] of + Muley Driss, and in the neighbourhood of the ruins of Pharaoh; they +476 live in encampments, consisting of two, three, or four tents each: + they resemble the Arabs of the Desert in their predatory + excursions. I speak from practical knowledge, having twice + travelled through their country, and visited their encampments. + + [Footnote 276: They are called _Ite-amor_, Amorite.] + + [Footnote 277: _Vide_ Jackson's Account of Marocco, chap. viii. + enlarged edition.] + + Page 189. "Mr. Beaufoy's Moor says, that below Ghinea is the sea + into which the river of Timbuctoo discharges itself." + + This might have been understood to signify the Sea of Sudan, if the + Moor had not said below Ghinea, (by which is meant Genowa, or as we + call it Guinea,) which implies, that the _Neel El Abeed_ (Niger) + discharges itself in the sea that washes the coast of Guinea; this, + therefore, corroborates Seedi Hamed's, or rather Richard's + hypothesis. + + Page 190. "This branch of the Niger passing Timbuctoo, is not + crossed until the third day going from Timbuctoo to Houssa." + + This quotation from "Dapper's Description of Africa," is + corroborated by L'Hage Abdsalam, Shabeeni, whose narrative says, + "Shabeeni, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for + Houssa, and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached + the Neel in three days, travelling through a fine, populous, and + cultivated country." + + The confusion of rivers, made mere equivocal by every new + hypothesis, receives here additional ambiguity. If there were (as + Mr. Bowdich affirms) three distinct rivers near Timbuctoo; viz. the +477 Joliba, the Gambarro, and the Niger, (_i. e_. the _Neel El Abeed_) + how comes it that they have not been noticed by Leo Africanus, who + resided at Timbuctoo; by Edrissi, who is the most correct of the + Arabian geographers; or whence is it, that these rivers have not + been noticed by the many Moorish travelling merchants who have + resided at Timbuctoo, and whom I have repeatedly questioned + respecting this matter[278], or whence is it that Alkaid L'Hassen + Ramy, a renowned chief of the Emperor of Marocco's army, with whom + I was well acquainted, and who was a native of Houssa, knew of no + such variously inclined streams. This being premised, I am + certainly not disposed to relinquish the opinion I brought with me + from Africa in the year 1807, viz. that the _Neel El Abeed_ is the + only mighty river that runs through Africa from west to east; but I + admit that its adjuncts, as well as itself, have different names; + thus, in the manuscript of Mr. Park's death, a copy of which is + inserted in "Mr. Bowdich's Account of Ashantee," it is called Kude; + many hundred miles eastward it is called Kulla, from the country +478 through which it passes; but Kude and Kulla are different names, + and ought not to be confounded one with the other; neither ought + Quolla (_i. e._, the Negro pronunciation of Kulla) to be confounded + with Kude, the former being the Negro term for the same river, in + the same manner as Niger is the Roman name for the _Neel Elabeed_, + which is the Arabic name for the same river. There is a stream + which proceeds from the Sahara, the water of which is _brackish_; + this stream hardly can be called a river, except in the rainy + season. It passes in a south-westerly direction near Timbuctoo, but + does not join the _Neel Elabeed_. I could mention several + intelligent and credible authorities, the report of respectable + merchants, who have resided, and, who have had establishments at + Timbuctoo, in confirmation of this fact; but as the authorities + which I should adduce would be unknown, even by name, to men of + science in Europe, I would refer the reader to the interesting + narrative of an intelligent Moorish merchant, who resided three + years at Timbuctoo, and who was known to the committee of the + African Association; this travelling merchant's name is L'Hage + Abdsalam Shabeeny, and his narrative, a manuscript of which (with + critical and explanatory notes by myself) I have in my possession, + has the following observation:[279]--"Close to the town of + Timbuctoo, on the south, is a small rivulet in which the +479 inhabitants wash their clothes, and which is about two feet deep; + it runs into the great forest on the east, and does not communicate + with the Nile, but is lost in the sands west of the town: its water + is brackish; that of the Nile is good and pleasant." + + [Footnote 278: The Arabs who conduct the _cafelahs_ or caravans + across the Sahara, are often seen at Agadeer or Santa Cruz, and + sometimes even at Mogodor; and if there was a river penetrating + to the north through the Sahara, would it not have been noticed + by them? Is it possible that such a prominent feature of + African geography, as a river of sweet water passing through a + desert, could fail of being noticed by these people, who are, + in their passage through the Desert, continually in search of + water?] + + [Footnote 279: See page 8.] + + Page 199. Mr. Murray recently observes, "Joliba seems readily + convertible into Joli-ba, the latter syllable being merely an + adjunct, signifying river; this I was also given to understand." + + This is an etymological error. The Joliba is not a compound word, + if it were it would be Bahar Joli, not Bajoli, or Joliba; thus do + learned men, through a rage for criticism, and for want of a due + knowledge of African languages, render confused, by fancied + etymologies, that which is sufficiently clear and perspicuous. + + Page 191. "The river of Darkulla mentioned by Mr. Brown." + + This is evidently an error: there is probably no such place or + country as Darkulla. There is, however, an alluvial country + denominated _Bahar Kulla_, (for which see the map of Africa in the + Supplement of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, p. 88. lat. N. 8 deg., + long. E. 20 deg.). I apprehend this Darkulla, when the nations of + Europe shall be better acquainted with Africa and its languages, + will be discovered to be a corruption of _Bahar Kulla_, or an + unintelligible and ungrammatical term: _Deaar Kulla_ is + grammatical, and implies a country covered with houses! _Dar Kulla_ +480 is an ungrammatical and an incorrect term, which being literally + translated into English, signifies _many house_. This being + premised, we may reasonably suppose, that _Bahar Kulla_ is the + proper term which, as I have always understood, forms the junction + of the Nile of the west with the Nile of the east, and hence + forming a continuity[280] of waters from Timbuctoo to Cairo. + + [Footnote 280: See my letter in the Monthly Magazine for March, + 1817, page 128.] + + 191. In this geographical dissertation the word Niger is still + used, which is a name altogether unknown in Africa, and calculated + to contuse the geographical enquirer. As this word is + unintelligible to the natives of Africa, whether they be Arabs, + Moors, Berebbers, Shelluhs, or Negroes, ought it not to be expunged + from the maps? + + P. 192. In the note in this page, "Jackson's Report of the source + of the _Neel el Abeed_, and the Source of the Senegal," is + confirmed by the Jinnee Moor.--See Jackson's Appendix to his + Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, p. 311. + + "It is said, that thirty days from Timbuctoo they eat their + prisoners!" Does not this allude to Banbugr[281], and has not this +491 word been corrupted by Europeans into Bambarra. See Mr. Bowdich's + MS. No. 3, p. 486; Banbugr, who eat the flesh of men. Jackson's + translation. + + [Footnote 281: The Gr in Banbugr, is the Arabic letter, grain. + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, renders this letter gh; + which demonstrates, that his knowledge of the Arabic was only + scholastic, not practical. It has no resemblance or affinity to + gh, and would be unintelligible if so pronounced to an Arab.] + + Page 193. The government of Jinnee appears to be Moorish; because + _Malai Smaera_, which should be written _Mulai Smaera_, signifies + in the Arabic language, the _Prince Smaera_: the term does not + belong to Negroes, but exclusively to Muhamedans. _Malai Bacharoo_ + is a Negro corruption of the word; it should be _Mulai_, or _Muley + Bukaree_; i.e. the _Abeed Mulai Bukaree_, or _Abeed Seedi Bukaree_. + They are well known among the Negroes of Sudan; the Negroes of this + race form the present body-guard of the Emperor of Maroceo's + troops, consisting of 5000 horse. They are dexterous in the + management of the horse, are well-disciplined troops, and are the + only military in the Emperor's army that can cope with the + Berebbers of the Atlas. + + Note, p. 194. Dapper's description of Africa is here quoted in + confirmation of the decay of Timbuctoo; and Jackson is accused of + extravagance. The latter I shall pass over, it being an assertion + unsupported by any substantial testimony; but immediately + afterwards is the following passage. + + "The three last kings before Billa (_i.e. Billabahada_) were + Osamana, (_i.e._ Osaman; Osamana being the feminine gender,) + Dawoloo, and Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woolo + reigning in 1800; and a Moor who had come from Timbuctoo to + Comassee ten years ago (viz. about 1807, or ten years before Mr. +482 Bowdich visited Ashantee), did not know King Woolo was dead, as he + was reigning at the time he left Timbuctoo." + + With regard to Dapper's assertion, it should be remembered, that if + Timbuctoo was decaying in his time, that is about the period that + Muley Ismael ascended the throne of Marocco, viz. in 1672; it + revived very soon after, that is before the close of the 17th + century. This powerful and warlike prince had the address to + establish and to maintain a very strong garrison at Timbuctoo; and + accordingly, during his long reign of fifty-five years, viz. from + 1672 to 1727, Timbuctoo carried on a constant, extensive, and + lucrative trade with Marocco, Tafilelt, and Fas, in gold dust, + gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, ivory, and slaves, &c. + _Akkabahs_[282], and _cafilahs_, or caravans, were going + continually from Timbuctoo to Tafilelt, Marocco, Fas, and Terodant. + Travelling across the Desert was then as safe as it is now in the + plains of Marocco, or on the roads in England; the only months + during which the caravans did not travel were July and August, + because the _Shume_, or hot wind of the Desert, prevails during + these two months. It is reported, that Muley Ismael was so rich in + gold, that the bolts of the gates of his palaces, and his kitchen + utensils, were of pure gold. Timbuctoo continued to carry on a most +483 lucrative trade with Marocco, &c.; during the Feign of the Emperor + Muley Abd Allah, son and successor of Ismael, and also during the + reign of Seedy[283] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, who died about the year + 1795, a sovereign universally regretted, and hence aptly + denominated the father of his people: since the decease of + Seedy[284] Muhamed ben Abd Allah, the father of the reigning + emperor, Muley Soliman, the trade of Sudan has rapidly decreased, + because the policy of the present emperor is, to discourage + commerce, but to encourage the agriculture and the manufactures of + his own country, so as to make them sufficient for itself, and + independent of foreign supplies! + + [Footnote 282: An Akkabah is an accumulation of many _cafilahs_ + or caravans.] + + [Footnote 283: It should be observed, that an emperor having + the name of the Arabian prophet, is called Seedy; but having + any other name, he is called Muley; the former signifies + master, the latter, prince.] + + [Footnote 284: If therefore the trade with Timbuctoo declined + in Leo's time, _i.e._ A.D. 1570, it unquestionably revived in + Ismael's reign, and also continued with but little diminution + during the reign of his son Abd Allah, and his grandson + Muhamed.] + + Da Woolo is a reverential term, and is synonymous with Woolo, + signifying King Woolo. + +484 Park says, Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805, + implying that he reigned from 1796 to 1805. The Moor before + mentioned, who came from Timbuctoo to Comassie in 1807, told Mr. + Bowdich, that Woolo was then reigning at Timbuctoo. Isaaco says, + Woolo was predecessor to Mansong; consequently, according to this + Jew, Woolo was king before the year 1796; therefore, if Mr. Park's + testimony be correct, Woolo must have been predecessor and + successor to Mansong; otherwise, Mr. Park was incorrect in saying + that Mansong was king of Timbuctoo in 1796, and in 1805. Adams + says, Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in 1810, and was old and + grey-headed. Riley's narrative also confirms his age and grey + hairs. With regard to my testimony, viz. that Woolo was king[285] + of Timbuctoo in 1800, I had it from two merchants of veracity, who + returned from Timbuctoo in 1800, after residing there 14 years: + they are both alive now, and reside at Fas; their names I would + mention, were I not apprehensive that it might lead to a reprimand + from the emperor, and create jealousy for having communicated + intelligence respecting the interior of the country. I should not + have entered into this detail _in confirmation of my assertion that + Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in_ 1800, if the editor of the + Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica (article Africa), had not + asserted, that I have committed an anachronism in asserting, that + he was king in that year; thereby insinuating that Park was right, + and that I was wrong. + + [Footnote 285: See my Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the + Anti-Jacobin Review for January, 1818, p. 453.] + +485 Page 195. The Editor of Adams's Narrative is, I apprehend, + incorrect in asserting, that the name Fatima affords no proof that + the queen, or the wife of Woolo, was a Muhamedan. Fatima is + incontestably an Arabian proper name; and it would be considered + presumption in a Negress unconverted to Muselmism, to assume the + name of Fatima. She must, therefore, have been necessarily a + Mooress, or a converted Negress; the name has nothing to do with a + numeral, as Mr. Bowdich suggests, and above all not with the + _numeral five_, for that is a number ominous of evil in Africa, and + as such, would never have been bestowed as a name on a beloved + wife. + + Page 196. Note of W. Hutchison, "The four greatest monarchs known + on the banks of the Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisimiel, + and Malla, or Mallowa." + + Baharnoo should be written _Ber Noh_; i.e. the country of Noah the + patriarch; it is called in the maps Bernoo, and the whole passage + is calculated greatly to confuse African geography. The information + is unquestionably derived from Negro authority, and that not of the + most authentic kind. Santambool is the Negro corruption of + _Strambool_, which is the Arabic name for Constantinople: + _Malisimiel_ is the Negro corruption of Muley Ismael.[286] The + first signifies the empire of Constantinople; the second signifies + the empire of Muley Ismael, who was emperor of Marocco in the early + part of the 18th century, and whose authority was acknowledged at +486 Timbuctoo, where he maintained a strong garrison, and held the + adjacent country in subjection, where his name is held in reverence + to this day. This being premised, it follows of course, that one of + these four great monarchies here alluded to, viz. that of + Santambool is certainly not on the Quolla, unless the Quolla be + considered the same river with the Egyptian Nile, and that Egypt be + considered a part of the empire of Santambool; then, and then only, + can it be said, that the empire of Santambool is situated on the + Quolla. + + [Footnote 286: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii. p. 295, and + note, p. 296.] + + Page 198. Two large lakes were described close to the northward of + Houssa; one called Balahar Sudan, and the other Girrigi Maragasee; + the first of these names is a Negro corruption, or an European + corruption of the term _Bahar Sudan_[287]; the other is a Negro + name of another, if not of the same lake or sea. The situation of + the _Bahar Sudan_ is described by me in the 13th chapter, in my + account of Marocco, to be fifteen journeys east of Timbuctoo, and + the _Neel El Abeed_ passes through it. I had this information from + no less than seven Moorish merchants of intelligence and veracity; + the same is confirmed by Ali Bey[288], the Shereef Imhammed, Park, + and Dr. Seitzen; all these authorities must therefore fall to the +487 ground if Mr. Bowdich's report is to overturn these testimonies, + which has placed it three degrees of latitude north of the _Neel El + Abeed_, or [289]_Neel Assudan_, and in the Sahara[290], + _unconnected with any river_! I doubt if any, but a very ignorant + Pagan Negro (for the Muhamedan Negroes are more intelligent), would + have given the Sea of Sudan this novel situation. + + [Footnote 287: See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii.] + + [Footnote 288: For an elucidation of these opinions, see my + Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the European Magazine, + Feb. 1818, page 113.] + + [Footnote 289: Neel Sudan and Neel Assudan are synonymous, the + _as_ being the article.] + + [Footnote 290: See Mr. Bowdich's Map, in his Account of a + Mission to Ashantee.] + + Page 200. The Quolla appears to be the Negro pronunciation of the + Arabic name _Kulla_; i.e. the _Bahar Kulla_, to which the _Neel + Assudan_ is said to flow. _Bahar Kulla_ is an Arabic word + signifying the sea altogether, or an alluvial country. The _Neel + Assudan_ here joins the waters of a river that proceed westward + from the Abysinian Nile, and hence is formed the water + communication between Cairo[291] and Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 291: See Jackson's Account of Marocco, enlarged + edition, p. 313. See also his Letter to the Editor of the + Monthly Magazine for March, 1817. p. 125.] + + Page 201. Quolla Raba, or Kulla Raba, signifies the Kulla forest, + as the Negroes express it; the Arabs call it _Raba Kulla_, i.e. the + forest of _Kulla_, If any further proof of the accuracy of this + interpretation be necessary, it maybe added, that the position + agrees exactly with Major Rennell's kingdom of _Kulla_, for which + see the Major's map in proceedings of the African Association, vol. + i. page 209, lat. N. 9 deg., long. W. 10 deg.. +488 + Page 203. The lake Fittri is a lake, the waters of which are said + to be filtered through the earth, as the name implies. The Nile is + here said to run under ground. The Arabs and Moors have a + tradition, that the waters of Noah's flood rested here, and were + absorbed and filtered through the earth, leaving only this large + lake. I never understood this sea to be identified with the Bahar + Heimed[292]; i.e. the Hot or Warm Sea. The Hot Sea and the Filtered + Sea are distinct waters; the former lies about mid-way, in a right + line between Lake Fittri and Lake Dwi. (See Laurie and Whittle's + Map of Africa, published in 1813.) This is another inaccuracy of + Mr. Hutchison; who appears, indeed, to have collected information + from natives, without considering what title they had to + credibility. Another error is added to the note in page 203 and + 204, viz. what he calls sweet beans are unquestionably dates, which + have not the least affinity in taste, shape, growth, or quality, to + beans. The Arabic name correctly converted into European letters, + is _timmer_, not _tummer_. The Arabic words designating sweet + beans, is _Elfool El Hellue_. The passage signed William Hutchison + here alluded to, is this: "The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and + _sweet beans called tummer_." + + [Footnote 292: _Heimed_ is an Arabic term, signifying that + degree of heat which milk has when coming from the cow or + goat.] + + Note, page 204. I do not know whence the Quarterly Review has +489 derived its information respecting the derivation of the word Misr + (a corruption of Massar); the word Massar is compounded of the two + Arabic words Ma and Sar; i.e. Mother of Walls. Possibly some Arabic + professor versed in bibliographic lore, to favor a darling + hypothesis, has transmuted Massar into Misr, to strengthen the + plausibility of the etymology of Misr from Misraem!! + + Note, page _205_. _Bahar bela ma_ is an Arabic expression, + importing it to be a country once covered with water, but now no + longer so. In the note in this page, I recognise the word Sooess to + designate the Isthmus of Suez. The Bahar Malee, and the Sebaha + Bahoori, are Negro corruptions of the Arabic words _Bahar El + Maleh_, and _Seba Baharet_: the former does not apply particularly + to the Mediterranean, but _is a term applicable to any sea or ocean + that is salt_ (as all seas and oceans assuredly are); the latter + term signifies literally, the Seven Seas or Waters: neither is this + a term applicable to the Mediterranean, but to any sea supplied by + seven rivers, as the Red Sea: these, therefore, are evidently other + inaccuracies of Mr. Hutchison. I apprehend Mr. Hutchison's Arabic + tutor at Ashantee was not an erudite scholar. The term, and the + only term in Africa, applicable to the Mediterranean Sea, is the + _Bahar Segrer_ (literally the Small Sea); and _El Bahar El Kabeer_ + (is the Atlantic Ocean, or literally the Great Sea); the latter is + sometimes figuratively called the _Bahar Addolum_, i.e. the Unknown + Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. +490 + Note, p. 206. Is it possible that the author doubts that Wangara is + east of Timbuctoo? It should seem that he did, as he quotes Mr. + Hutchison as authority for making it to contain Kong, a mountainous + district many journeys south of the _Neel Assudan_. Mr. Park's + testimony is also called in support of this opinion, but they are + both erroneous. Wangara is as well known in Africa to be east of + Timbuqtoo, as in England York is known to be North of of London. + + Oongooroo is a barbarous Negro corruption of Wangara; therefore, + this note, if suffered to pass through the press unnoticed, would + be calculated to confuse, not to elucidate, African geography; + neither can it be called, according to Mr. Horneman's orthography, + Ungura: the name is _Wangara_ which cannot be converted accurately + into any word _but_ Wangara. Ungura Oongooroo, &c. are corruptions + of the proper name, originating in an imperfect, and but an oral + knowledge of the African Arabic. + + Page 210. I apprehend the reason why Wassenah was not known at + Ashantee by the traders, is because it was out of their trading + track. I have no doubt of the existence of Wassenah or Massenah + (for when the names of African towns and countries are recorded, we + should not be particular about a letter or two, when we find so + many orthographical variations are made by different authors); + neither is there any reason (that I know of) to doubt the +491 description of Wassenah given in Riley's Narrative; but it is not + extraordinary, that this place should be unknown at Ashantee, if + there were no commerce or communication between these countries + respectively; it is certain, that the Africans neither know, seek, + or care, for places or countries with which they have no trade or + communication. + + It appears well deserving of observation (for the purpose of + rendering Arabic names intelligible to future African travellers), + that Mr. Bowdich has demonstrated that, what is called in our maps, + 1. Bambarra, 2. Gimbala, 3. Sego, 4. Berghoo, 5. Begarmee, being + written in the Arabic language, with the guttural letter _grain_, + would be quite unintelligible, if pronounced to an African _as they + are written_ by our letters, the nearest approximation to the + Arabic words would be as follows, taking _Gr_ for the nearest + similitude that our alphabet affords to the guttural letter [Arabic] + _grain_. + + Correct Pronunciation. African Orthography. Called in the Maps. + + 1. Banbug'r [Arabic] Bambara. + + 2. Grimbala [Arabic] Gimbala. + + 3. Shagr'u [Arabic] Sego. + + 4. Bergr'u [Arabic] Berghoo. + + 5. Bagrarmee [Arabic] Begarmee. +492 + The African traveller should be precise in his attention to the + sound of these words, otherwise he will be quite unintelligible to + the Africans, and to the Muhamedans. + + Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, is certainly incorrect, when he + says, the letter [Arabic] _grain_ should be pronounced _gh_. No + one acquainted _practically_ with the Arabic language, could + possibly be of this opinion; _gh_ having no more resemblance to the + sound of the letter [Arabic] _grain_, than _g_ has to _h_: and + every traveller going to Africa with this erroneous opinion, will, + undoubtedly, be unintelligible to the Africans. + + Finally, the Arabic document, if it may be permitted to call it + Arabic, facing page 128 of this interesting work of Mr. Bowdich, is + a most miserable composition of _Lingua franca_, or corrupt + Spanish, of unintelligible jargon, consisting of many words quite + unintelligible to the Africans, whether Negroes or Moors, or + others. The language of this document, although it has some Arabic + words in it, is worse, if possible, than the scrawl in which it is + written; neither is it a correct translation of the English which + precedes it. But purporting to be a letter issued from the + _accredited servants of the King of the English_, it is certainly a + disgrace to the country from whence it issues, and a rare specimen + of our knowledge of the Arabic language. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. +493 + + _Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa._ + + TO THE EDITOR OF THE JOURNAL OF TRADE, &c. + + Sir, Eton, June 30, 1818. + + The last expedition from Sierra Leone, in addition to many others + sent out for the purpose of _exploring the interior of Africa_, + having failed, and the enterprising and persevering Mr. Burckhardt, + having frustrated the well grounded hopes of the African + Association, by his having paid the debt of nature, it is not + improbable that His Majesty's government _will now direct their + attention with energy to the only plan that can possibly make that + interesting and extraordinary country a jewel in the British + crown_. + + This important discovery, which would immortalise the prince, who + should cherish it to its maturity, _can be effected only through + the medium of commerce_. But it should be attempted not only with + energy and decision, but with _dispatch_, before the enterprising + and commercial spirit of a foreign power (seeing how abortive our + efforts have been), shall snatch from us the glorious opportunity + now offered of _laying open the interior regions of Africa_ to the + commercial enterprise of Great Britain. + + I am, Sir, Your most obedient servant, + + VASCO DE GAMA. +494 + + The following curious Memoir was composed by Edmund Hogan, in the + reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lately found amongst the papers of + one of his descendants. + + (A TRUE COPY.) + + "_The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the Sworne Esquires of + her Ma't's Person, from her Highnesse to Muley Abdelmelech, + Emperour of Morocco, and King of Fes and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. + Written by himselfe_. + + "I Edmund Hogan, being appointed Embassadour from the Queens Ma'tie + to the above-named Emperour and King Muley Abdelmelech, departed + with my company and servants from London the 22d April, 1577, being + imbarked in the good ship called the Gallion, of London, and + arrived in Azafi, a port of Barbary, the 21st of May next + following. Immediately I sent Leonell Egerton ashoare with my + letters directed to John Williams and John Bampton, who dispatched + a courier to Morocco to know the Kings pleasure for my repaire to + the court, which letters came to theire hands on the Thursday + night. They with all speed gave the King understanding of it, who + being glad thereof, speeded the next day certaine captaines, with + souldiera and tents, with other provision, to Azafi; so that upon + Whitsunday at night, the said captaines, with John Bampton, Robert +495 Washborne, and Robert Lion, and the Kings officers, came late to + Azafi. In the meane time I remained aboard, and caused some of the + goods to be discharged, for lightning of the ship; and I wrote in + my letter that I would not lande 'till I knew the Kings pleasure. + The 26th day, being Saturday, the Mark-speed arrived in the roade + about two of the clock in the afternoone. The 27th day, being + Whitsunday, came aboard the Gallion, John Bampton, and others, + giving me to understand how much the King rejoyced of my safe + arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie; and how that for my safe + conduct to the court he had sent four captaines, and an hundred + souldiers well appointed, with a horse furnished, which he used + himself to ride on, with all other furniture accordingly; they + wished me also to come on land in the best order I could, as well + for my self as my men, which I did, having to the number of ten + men, whereof three were trumpeters. The ships being four, appointed + themselves in the best order they could, for the best shew, and + shott off all theire ordinance to the value of twenty marks in + powder. At my coming, ashoare, I found all the souldiers well + appointed on horseback, the captaines and the Govern'r of the towne + standing as neer the water side as they could, with a jennet of the + Kings, and rec'd me from the boate, declaring how glad his Ma'tie + was of my safe arrivall, coming from the Queens Ma'tie my +496 Mistresse, and that he had sent them to attend upon me, it being + his pleasure that I should tarrie there on shoare five or six dayes + for my refreshing; so being mounted upon the jennet, they conducted + me through the towne into a faire fielde upon the sea side, where + there was a tent provided for me, and all the ground spread with + Turkie carpets, and the castle discharged a peale of ordinance, and + all things necessarie were brought into my tent, where I both tooke + my table and lodging, and had other convenient tents for my + servants. The souldiers inviron'd the tents, and watched about us + day and night as long as I lay there, altho' I sought my speedier + dispatch. On the Wednesday towards night, I tooke my horse, and + travelled ten miles to the first place of water that wee could + finde, and there pitched our tents 'till the next morning, and so + traveled till ten of the clock, and then pitched our tents 'till + four, and so traveled as long as day light would suffer, about + twenty-six miles that day. The next day being Fryday, I traveled in + like order but eight and twenty miles at the most; and by a + [293]river, being about six miles within sight of the Citty of + Morocco, wee pitched bur tents. Imediately after came all our + English Merchants, and the French, on horseback, to meete me; and + before night there came an Alcayde from the King with fiftie men, + and divers mules laden with victuall and banket for my supper, +497 declaring unto me how glad the King shewed himselfe to hear of the + Queens Ma'tie, and that his pleasure was I should be received into + his countrey as never any Christian the like; and desired to know + what time the next day I would come into his Citie, because he + would that all the Christians, as also his Nobilitie, should meete + me; and willed John Bampton to be with him early in the morning, + which he did. About seven of the clock, being accompanied with the + French and English Merchants, and a great number of souldiers, I + passed towards the Citie, and by that time I had traveled two + miles, there met me all the Christians of the Spaniards and + Portugals to receive me, which I know was more by the Kings + commandment then of any good wills of themselves; for some of them, + although they speake me faire, hung downe theire heads like dogs, + and especially the Portugals; and I countenanced them accordingly. + So I passed on, 'till I came within two English miles of the Citie; + and then John Bampton returned, shewing me that the King was so + glad of my coming, that he could not devise to doe too much, to + shew the good will that he did owe to the Queens Ma'tie and her + Realme; His counsellors met me without the gates; and at the entrie + of the gates, his footmen and guard were placed on both sides of my + horse, and so brought me to the King's palace. The King sate in his + chaire, with his Counsell about him, as well the Moores as the +498 Alkaids; and, according to his order given unto me before, I there + declared my message in Spanish, and made deliverie of the Queens + Ma't's letters, and all that I spake at that present in Spanish, he + caused one of his Alkaids to declare the same to the Moores present + in the Arabic tongue; which done, he answered me againe in Spanish, + yeelding to the Queens Ma'tie great thankes, and offering himselfe + and his countrey to be at her Graces comandment; and he comanded + certaine of his counsellors to conduct me to my lodging, not being + farr from the Court. The house was faire, after the fashion of that + countrey, being dayly well furnished with all kinde of victuall at + the Kings charge. The same night he sent for me to the court, and I + had conference with him about the space of two houres; where I + throughly declared the charge co'mitted unto me from her Ma'tie, + finding him conformable, willing to pleasure, and not to urge her + Ma'tie with any demands, more then conveniently she might willingly + consent unto, hee knowing that out of his countrey the Realme of + England might be better served with lackes, then he in comparison + from us. Further, he gave me to understand, that the King of Spain + had sent unto him for a licence that an Embassadour of his might + come into his countrey, and had made great meanes, that if the + Queens Ma'tie of England sent any unto him, that he would not give + him any credit or entertainment; albeit (said he) I know what the +499 King of Spaine, and what the Queene of England and her realme is; + for I neither like of him, nor of his religion, being so governed + by the Inquisition, that he can doe nothing of himselfe. Therefore, + when he cometh upon the licence which I have granted, he shall well + see how little account I will make of him and Spaine, and how + greatly I will extoll you for the Queenes Ma'tie of England; he + shall not come to my presence as you have done, and shall dayly, + for I minde to accept of you as my companion, and one of my house, + whereas he shall attend twentie dayes after he hath done his + message. After the end of this speech, I delivered Sir Thomas + Gresham's letters; when as he tooke me by the hand, and led me + downe a long court to a palace, where there ranne a faire fountaine + of water, and there sitting himselfe in a chaire, he comanded me to + sitt downe in another, and there called for such simple musicians + as he had. Then I presented him with a greate base lute, which he + most thankfully accepted, and then he was desirous to hear of the + musicians; and I tolde him, that there was great care had to + provide them, and that I did not doubt but upon my returne they + should come with the first ship. He is willing to give them good + entertainment, with provision of victuall, and to let them live + according to theire law and conscience, wherein he urgeth none to + the contrary. I finde him to be one that liveth greatly in the fear +500 of God, being well exercised in the Scriptures, as well in the Old + Testament, as also in the New, and he beareth a greater affection + to our nation then to others, because of our religion, which + forbiddeth worship of idols; and the Moores called him the + Christian King. The same night, being the first of June, I + continued with him till twelve of the clock, and he seemed to have + so good likeing of me, that he tooke from his girdle a short + dagger, being sett with 200 stones rubies and Turkies, and did + bestowe it upon me; and so I, being conducted, returned to my + lodging for that time. The next day, because he knew it to be + Sunday, and our Sabboth day, he did let me rest; but on the Monday + in the afternoone he sent for me, and I had conference with him + againe, and musick. Likewise on the Tuesday, by three of the clock, + he sent for me into his garden, finding him layed upon a silk bed, + complaining of a sore leg; yet, after long conference, he walked + into another orchard, whereas having a fair banketing house, and a + great water, and a new gallie in it, he went aboard the gallie, and + tooke me with him, and passed the space of two or three houres, + shewing the great experience he had in gallies, wherein (as he + said) he had exercised himselfe eighteene yeares in his youth. + After supper he shewed me his horses, and other co'modities that he + had about his house; and since that night I have not seene him, for + that he hath kept in with his sore legg; but he hath sent to me +501 dayly. The 18th of June, at six of the clock at night, I had againe + audience of the King, and I continued with him, till midnight, + having debated, as well for the Queenes co'mission, as for the + well-dealing with her merchants for their traffick here in these + parts, saying, he would do much more for the Queenes Ma'tie and the + Realme; offering that all English ships with her subjects may with + good securitie enter into his ports and dominions, as well in trade + of merchandize, as for victuall and water, as also in time of warr + with any of her enemies, to bring in prizes, and to make sales as + occasion should serve, or else to depart againe with them at theire + pleasure. Likewise for all English ships that shall passe along his + Coast of Barbary, and threw the Streights into the Levant seas, and + so to the Turks dominions, and the King of Algiers, as his owne; + and that he would write to the Turke, and to the King of Algiers, + his letters for the well using of our ships and goods. Also, that + hereafter no Englishman that by any meanes may be taken captives, + shall be sold within any of his dominions; whereupon I declared + that the Queenes Ma'tie, accepting of these his offers, was pleased + to confirme the intercourse and trade of our Merchants within this + his countrey, as also to pleasure him with such commodities as he + should have need of, to furnish the necessities and wants of his + country in trade of merchandize, so as he required nothing contrary + to her honour and law, and the breach of league with the Christian +502 Princes her neighbours. The same night I presented the King with + the case of combes, and desired his Ma'tie to have speciall regard + that the ships might be Iaden back againe, for that I found little + store of salt-peter in readinesse in John Bampton's hands; he + answered me, that I should have all the assistance therein that he + could, but that in[294] Sus he thought to have some store in his + house there, as also that the Mountainers had made much in a + readinesse; I requested that he would sende downe, which he + promised to doe. The eighteenth day I was with him againe, and so + continued there till night; and he shewed me his house, with + pastime in ducking with water spaniels, and baiting bulls with his + English doggs. At this time I moved him againe for the sending + downe to Sus, which he granted to doe; and the 24th day there + departed Alcayde Mammie, with Lionell Egerton, and Rowland Guy, to + Sus; and carried with them, for our accounts and his company, the + Kings letters to his brother Muly Hammet, and Alcayde Shavan, and + the Viceroy. The 23d day the King sent me out of Morocco to his + garden called Shersbonare, with his guard and Alcayde Mamoute; and + the 24th at night I came to the Court to see a Morris-dance, and a + play of his Alkaids; he promised me audience the next day, being +503 Tuesday, but he putt it off 'till Thursday; and the Thursday at + night I was sent for to the King after supper, and then he sent + Alcayde Rodwan and Alcayde Gowry to conferr with me; but, after a + little talk, I desired to be brought to the King for my dispatch. + And being brought to him,. I preferred two bills of John Bampton's, + which he had made for provision of salt-peter, also two bills for + the quiet traffique of our English Merchants, and bills for sugars + to be made by the Jewes, as well for the debts past, as hereafter, + and for good order in the Ingenios. Also I moved him againe for the + salt-peter, and other dispatches, which he referred to be agreed + upon by the two Alcaydes. But the Fryday, being the 20th, the + Alcaydes could not intend it, and upon Saturday Alcayde Rodwan fell + sick; so on Sunday wee made meanes to the King, and that afternoone + I was sent for to conferre upon the bargaine with the Alcaydes and + others; but did not agree. Upon Tuesday I wrote a letter to the + King for my dispatch; and the same afternoone I was called againe + to the Court, and referred all things to the King, accepting his + offer of salt-peter. That night againe the King had me into his + gallie, and the spaniels did hunt the duck. The Thursday I was + appointed to weigh the 300 quintals grosse of salt-peter,, and that + afternoone the Tabybe came unto me to my lodging, shewing me that + the King was offended with John Bampton for divers causes. The +504 Sunday night late, being the 7th July, I got the King to forgive + all to John Bampton, and the King promised me to speake againe with + me upon Monday. Upon Tuesday I wrote to him againe for my dispatch, + and then he sent Fray Lewes to me, and said, that he had order to + write. Upon Wednesday I wrote againe; and he sent me word that I + should come and be dispatched, so that I should depart upon Fryday + without faile, being the 12th July. So the Fryday after, according + to the Kings order and appointment, I went to the Court; and + whereas motion and petition was made for the confirmac'on of the + demands which I had preferred, they were all granted, and likewise + which were on the behalfe of our English Merchants requested, were + with great favour and readinesse yeilded unto. And whereas the + Jewes there resident, were to our men in certaine round sum'es + indebted, the Emperor's pleasure and co'mandment was, that they + should without further excuse or delay pay and discharge the same. + And thus at length I was dismissed with great honour and speciall + countenance, such as hath not ordinarily bene shewed to other + Embassadors of the Christians. And touching the private affairs + intreated upon betwixt her Ma'tie and the Emperour, I had letters + from him to satisfie her Highnesse therein. So to conclude, having + received the like honourable conduct from his Court, as I had for + my part at my first landing, I imbarked myself with my foresaid +505 company; and arriving not long after in England, I repaired to her + Ma'ties Court, and ended my embassage to her Highnesses good + liking, with relation of my service performed." + + [Footnote 293: The Tensift.] + + [Footnote 294: Great quantities of superior saltpetre are + produced at Terodant in Suse.] + + _Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F.R.S.L. and E._ + + Sir, London, 17th January, 1818. + + Having read, with considerable satisfaction, your very able and + judicious dissertation respecting Africa, in the new Supplement to + the Encyclopedia Britannica, I will take the liberty to offer some + animadversions that have occurred to me in the perusal of that very + interesting article. + + _Bahr Kulla_ I conceive to be an immerged country, of considerable + extent, similar to Wangara; for the name, which is Arabic, implies + as much. The correct orthography, translated literally into English + is _Bahr Kulha_, which signifies the sea, wholly or altogether, + implying, therefore, an alluvial country. + + Respecting goat-skins dyed red or yellow, these are not brought by + caravans from central Africa to Marocco, but are manufactured at + Marocco, Fas, Mequinas, and Terodant the metropolis of Suse, from + which manufactories they are conveyed to the interior regions for + sale. Goat-skins, with the hair, in the raw state only, are + exported from Mogodor to England. +506 + When Moore asserted that there was no such river as the Niger, he + evidently meant that the _natives of Africa_ knew it not by that + name; which is undoubtedly correct; for the word being an European + word, it would not be known in Africa: but its translation into + Arabic is _Bahar El Abeed_, i. e. the river of Negroes. Edrissi + called it Niger, from the same motive, viz. because it was so named + by _Europeans_, and by them only. + + I conceive that the hypothesis which has been credited by some, + viz. that there is no receptacle for the two Niles, between Cashna + and Timbuctoo, must now necessarily fall to the ground; since the + sea of Sudan, first declared by me to be between Cashna and + Timbuctoo, and since confirmed by Ali Bey, and by Park, in his + second journey, can (as I apprehend) no longer be doubted: and it + is not improbable that this is the common receptacle of the Nile of + the West and the Nile of the East. This hypothesis is strengthened + by the testimony of the Shereef Imhammed, who has said, that he + himself saw the Nile, at Cashna, flowing so rapidly westward, that + vessels could not stem the current. If this be true, the [295]_Ba + Sea Feena_ of Park, which is only another name for the _Sea of + Sudan_, must lie west of Cashna, and, probably, about the same +507 point that it is stated by me to be situated, viz. fifteen journeys + of horse-travelling, or from 400 to 450 British miles east of + Timbuctoo. + + [Footnote 295: The Arabic orthography is _Bahar S'feena_ which + being literally translated into English, signifies the Sea of + Ships.] + + The word _Djinawa_ is the African word that denominates Guinea, but + I cannot imagine that it was ever intended to signify Gana. (See + Supplement to Encyclopaedia Britannica, p. 104.) + + You say there are, in Africa, two rivers to which the name of + _Niger_ has been given: this is evidently an error, but possibly of + the press only. There are, however, two rivers in Africa to which + the name of _Neel_ has been given. + + The Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p. 540, declare + that the Nile is a name applied in Africa to any great river; but + as this assertion is calculated to produce confusion in the + geographical elucidation of the interior of that continent, and as + it certainly is not the fact, I must here beg leave to contradict + it, and declare that there are absolutely but two rivers in Africa, + that bear the name Neel or Nile, viz. the Neel El Kabeer, Neele + Sudan, or Neel El Abeed, i.e. the great Nile, the Nile of Sudan or + the Nile of the Negroes; and Neele Masser, i.e. the Nile of + Egypt.[296] + + [Footnote 296: _Nile_ is a French term, and loses its proper + pronunciation and is unintelligible when pronounced by an + Englishman to an African; but if written _Neel_, and pronounced + by an Englishman, it is intelligible.] + + If my knowledge of the African Arabic can be of any service in +508 giving you the signification or correct orthography of African + words, in the event of your favouring the public with a future + edition of your New Supplement to the Encyclopaedia Britannica, any + information that I can communicate to you will be very much at your + service; and you may in this and in any other respect that regards + Africa freely command my services. + + + _Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels + in Africa, by the late John Leyden, M.D., by Hugh Murray, Esq. + F.R.S.E._ + + TO HUGH MURRAY ESQ. F.R.S.E. + + Sir, + + London, Feb. 1818. + + You have certainly rendered to your country a service, in the + publication of "The Travels and Discoveries in Africa, of the late + John Leyden," the perusal of which has been to me a fund of + instruction and entertainment; it is a most valuable work, and such + a one as was wanted by the literary world, inasmuch as the + judicious collection of the matter forms a most valuable epitome of + African knowledge, collecting what was before distributed into many + folios. + + I anticipate that the information in this work, communicated to the + public, will soon be circulated, and you will be called upon to + supply a second edition. In the mean time, I take the liberty of + submitting to your perusal a few cursory observations which I have +509 made during the perusal of it, on the accuracy of which you may + assuredly rely. These apply for the most part to Arabian words, + which have been by the moderns, as well as the ancients variously + corrupted and mutilated. Desirous (for the information of those who + really seek after African knowledge) that this book will pass + through many editions. I am, &c. + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + _Cursory Observations_. + + "The _Ludaia_, are not inhabitants of _Ludama_, they are a very + numerous and warlike tribe of Arabs, inhabiting the Sahara, of + which there are two or three emigrations or encampments in + different and distant parts of Sahara; the Emperor of Marocco has + some thousands of them in his army, and they are esteemed (next to + the negroes, called Abeed Seedy Bukaree) his best troops. See the + Map of the tracts from Fas and Arguin to Timbuctoo, facing page 1. + Lat. N. 24 deg.. long. W. 3 deg.. + + "This serpent is the _Buska_, described in Jackson's enlarged + Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109. Providence has afforded to man an + opportunity of evading the attack of this deadly animal; for when + it coils itself up, and by the strength of its tail darts forward + fifteen or twenty yards at once, the person attacked, by watching + vigilantly its motions, evades the attack, by moving only a short + distance from the right line, in which it is prepared to dart +510 forwards; neither can the _Buska_ govern itself in the extent of + its movement, but necessarily goes as far as its strength will + permit, and then coils itself up again in a circular form, again + erects its head, and darts a second time to its object. I have + conversed with Arabs, who have been attacked by this monster, and + they have assured me, that, by vigilantly watching its motion, and + the direction of its head, when preparing to dart forward, they may + escape its attack.[297] + + "It is not correct to assert that _Nasari is a general term_, + applied to infidels in Muhamed; it is applied to Christians only. + _Kaffer is the general term_ applied to all who have not faith in + the Arabian Prophet.[298] + + "That which you call the Talk Tree, is the tree which produces the + Barbary gum; the name is _talh_.[299]" + + [Footnote 297: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 306.] + + [Footnote 298: Ibid, p. 429.] + + [Footnote 299: Ibid. 204.] + + "The _Keydenah_.--This is the Sudanic name for the tree which + produces the Argan nut, or olive, the _kernel_ of which resembles a + bitter almond, and from _it_, not from the shell, they extract the + oil, so celebrated for frying fish, and for burning; a pint of + which will afford light as long as two pints of olive oil. + + "The She plant, or properly Sheh is not wild thyme, nor does it + resemble it, it is the wormseed plant, the seed of which is an +511 article of exportation, from the ports of Marocco, The sheh + resembles the absynthum. The wild thyme is called _zatar_, also an + article of exportation from the ports of the Marocco empire.[300] + + "The _Alsharra_ signifies the Book of Laws of Muhamed.[301] + + "_Gebel Ramlie_ should be written _Jibbel Rummelie_, i.e. the Sandy + Mountain.[302] + + "The Elwah [303]Elgarbie is inhabited by the Maggrebee Arabs. My + late friend, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother to Muley Soliman, the + reigning Emperor of Marocco, had a very large estate in this Wah, + called Santariah. In the 1793d year of the Christian era, he sent + his friend and servant Alkaid Muhammed ben Abd Saddack, late + governor of Mogodor, to effect the sale of this estate. He was + absent on this embassy two years and three months.[304] + + "_Sheb_ is the Arabic for alum, the correct orthography is + _Shib_.[305] + + "_Marybucks_ should be _Marabet_, i.e. Priests, or Holy + Muhamedans.[306] + + "The primitive plough is used in all the African countries + inhabited by the Arabs, or their descendants; the negroes, however, + use the hoe." [307] + + [Footnote 300: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 312.] + + [Footnote 301: Ibid, p. 334.] + + [Footnote 302: Ibid, p. 398.] + + [Footnote 303: Let the African traveller be careful to + pronounce these g's guttural (Arabic.)] + + [Footnote 304: Ibid, p. 399.] + + [Footnote 305: Ibid. ibid.] + + [Footnote 306: Ibid. p. 225.] + + [Footnote 307: Ibid. p. 227.] + +512 + "The Mouselmines is a French corruption of the term Muselman, i.e. + Mohamedans. + + "Mongearts, i.e. Moguert, the g guttural. + + "Ouadelim, i.e. Wooled Deleim, or the sons of Deemy. + + "Labdessebah, i.e. Woled Abbusebah, 'the sons of Abbusebah.'[308] + + "Wed de Non, i.e. Wedinoon. + + "The herb, with a decoction of which they dye their nails and + hands, is called by the Arabs _El Henna_: it imparts a coolness and + softness to the hands, and diminishes the excessive perspiration + incident to warm climates.[309] + + "Hooled ben Soliman ought to be Woled ben Soliman, 'the sons of the + sons of Soliman;' and Benioled, should be Ben El Waled, 'the sons + of Elwaled.'[310] + + "The small beautiful species of deer, is the _El Horreh:_ it is an + inhabitant of the confines of the Saharah; it is said never to lie + down. It produces the anti-poison called bezoar stone, (called in + the Arabic _Bide El Horrek_, i.e. the testicle of the Horreh.) This + is an article of commerce at Santa Cruz, and Wedinoon. The back and + sides of the skins of these animals are of a red brown, and of a + vivid white underneath." [311] + + [Footnote 308: Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 262.] + + [Footnote 309: Ibid. p. 291.] + + [Footnote 310: Ibid. p. 299.] + + [Footnote 311: Ibid. p. 303.] + +513 + TO JAMES GREY JACKSON, ESQ. + + Sir, + + Edinburgh, May 3. 1818. + + I have lately been favoured with two communications from you:--the + one a letter to Mr. Napier, editor of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, + on the subject of the article _Africa_, of which I was the author, + and which Mr. Napier, therefore, put into my hands; the other, a + letter direct to myself, on the subject of my edition of "Leyden's + Discoveries in Africa." I fully intended to have answered them + before now, but the pressure of other business, with the wish to + bestow upon them the leisurely consideration which they merited, + has hitherto prevented me. I feel much gratified by the favourable + opinion which you express of what I have done on this subject, and + much obliged to you for your communications, and offers of further + information. I experienced very much the disadvantage arising from + a want of knowledge of the languages of North Africa, with which + you appear to have a _very extensive acquaintance. Indeed, several + of the etymologies which you have given, are very interesting_. I + was particularly pleased to receive that of the term _Ba Sea + Feena_, though I cannot conceal that it tends to strengthen the + doubts which I have entertained of its applying to the sea on the + Gold Coast. The distance, the direction southwards, the Christians, + the motion one way and another, and even the ships, are all +514 circumstances which would agree. There are arguments, however, + against it; and it is certain that Park did not so understand it. + Do you think there is any chance that the Bahr Soudan could be the + Gulf of Guinea? + + If you are acquainted with any circumstances which could tend to + confirm or refute the narrative of Sidi Hamet, as given by Riley, + or throw light upon Riley's general credibility; or if you have + ever heard any report of such a city as _Wassanah_, I should feel + particularly obliged to you for communicating such information: and + whenever I find myself at a loss, I shall gladly avail myself of + the liberality with which you show yourself disposed to impart the + knowledge of which you have become possessed. + + I shall communicate this letter to Mr. Napier; and it is but fair + to mention, that, from the circumstances already stated, I am + solely responsible for the too long delay which has taken place in + answering your letter to him, as well as that to myself. + + HUGH MURRAY. + + _On the Niger and the Nile._ + + London, 7th April, 1820. + + In the 25th number of the Quarterly Review, (article Park's + Travels,) the hypothesis there laid down as almost indisputable, is +515 the non-continuity of the two Niles of Africa, or (according to the + European phraseology of the day) of the Niger and the Nile. + + This hypothesis founded on the opinion of Major Rennel, carries + with it no evidence whatever, but the speculative theory of that + learned geographer. The identity or connection of the two Niles, + and the consequent water communication between[312] Cairo and + Timbuctoo receives (supposing the Quarterly Review to be correct), + as our intelligence respecting Africa increases, additional + confirmation: and even the Quarterly Reviewer, who denominated the + opinion recorded by me, the gossipping stories of Negroes, (_vide_ + Quarterly Review, No. 25, p. 140.) now favours this opinion! + + The Quarterly Reviewer appreciates Burckhardt's information on this + subject, and depreciates mine, _although both are derived from the + same sources of[313] intelligence, and confirm one another_: the + reviewer says, Mr. Burckhardt has revived a question of older date; + viz. "that the Niger of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are one and the + same river: this general testimony to a physical fact can be shaken + only by direct proof to the contrary." + + [Footnote 312: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 310.] + + [Footnote 313: _i. e_. Intelligence from natives of Africa.] + + This is all very well: I do not object to the Quarterly Reviewer + giving up an opinion which he finds no longer tenable; but when I + see in the same review (No. 44, p. 481.) the following words,--"we +516 give no credit whatever to the report received by Mr. Jackson, of a + person (several Negroes[314], it should be) having performed a + voyage by water from Timbuctoo to Cairo," I cannot but observe with + astonishment, that the Reviewer believes Burckhardt's report, that + they are the same river, when, at the same time he does not believe + mine. + + [Footnote 314: _Vide_ Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. + 312.] + + Is there not an inconsistency here, somewhat incompatible with the + impartiality which _ought_ to regulate the works of criticism? I + will not for a moment suppose it to have proceeded from a spirit of + animosity, which I feel myself unconscious of deserving. But the + reviewer further says, the objection to the identity of the Niger + and the Nile, is grounded on the incongruity of their periodical + inundations, or on the rise and fall of the former river not + corresponding with that of the latter. I do not comprehend whence + the Quarterly Reviewer has derived this information; I have always + understood the direct contrary, which I have declared in the + enlarged editions of my account of Marocco, page 304, which has + been confirmed by a most intelligent African traveller, Ali Bey, + (for which see his travels, page 220.) + + I may be allowed to observe, that although the Quarterly Reviewer + has changed his opinion on this matter, I have invariably + maintained mine, founded as it is on the concurrent testimony of + the best informed and most intelligent native African travellers, +517 and I still assert, on the same foundation, _the identity of the + two Niles, and their continuity of waters_. + + I have further to remark what will most probably ere long prove + correct; viz. that the _Bahar Abiad_[315], that is to say, the + river that passes through the country of Negroes, between Senaar + and Donga, is an erroneous appellation, originating in the general + ignorance among European travellers of the African Arabic, and that + the proper name of this river is Bahar Abeed, which is another term + for the river called the Nile-el-Abeed, which passes south of + Timbuctoo towards the east (called by Europeans the Niger). + + It therefore appears to me, and I really think it must appear to + every unbiassed investigator of African geography, that every iota + of African discovery, made successively, by Hornemann[316], + Burckhardt, and others, tends to confirm _my water communication + between Timbuctoo and Cairo_, and the theorists and speculators in + African geography, who have heaped hypothesis upon hypothesis, + error upon error, who have raised splendid fabrics upon pillars of + ice, will ere long close their book, and be compelled, by the force + of truth and experience, to admit the fact stated about twelve + years ago by me in my account of Marocco, &c. viz. _that the Nile +518 of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are identified by a continuity of + waters, and that a water communication is provided by these two + great rivers from Timbuctoo to Cairo_; and moreover, that the + general African opinion, _that the Neel-el-Abeed_ (Niger) + _discharges itself into the_ (Bahar el Maleh) _Salt Sea, signifies + neither more nor less than that it discharges itself at the Delta + in Egypt, into the Mediterranean Sea_! + + JAMES GREY JACKSON. + + [Footnote 315: Bahar Abiad signifies White River; Bahar Abeed + signifies River of Negroes.] + + [Footnote 316: _Vide_ my letter in Monthly Magazine on this + subject for March, 1817, p. 124.] + + + + + APPENDIX + + BEING HISTORICAL FRAGMENTS IN ELUCIDATION OF + THE FOREGOING PAGES. + +_First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo.--Timbuctoo and Guago captured +by Muley Homed, (son of Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley +Melk[317], or Muley Moluck,) in the 16th Century, (about the Year +1580_.) + + [Footnote 317: See the Spectator, No. 349.] + +Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Moluck, in 1577, A.C. fought the +celebrated battle with Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, near Alkassar, +which is at a short distance from L'Araich, wherein Don Sebastian was +killed; and Abdelmelk being, before the battle, extremely ill, his son +Muley Hamed went to his litter, to communicate to the Emperor his +father, that the Moors had gained the victory, when he found his father +dead and cold. Muley Hamed concealed this event till the battle was +over; and was then proclaimed Emperor, and reigned twenty-six years: he +cultivated the arts and sciences, mathematics and astronomy, which last +was of essential service to him in crossing the Sahara to Timbuctoo and +Guago; during which perilous journey the compass is so indispensable, +that there is no certainty of travelling without it. He lost some +thousands in this expedition; but if gold could recompense the waste of +human life, he was rewarded for his journey of abstinence and privation +across the Sahara, for he brought from Guago seventy-five quintals, and +from Timbuctoo sixty quintals, of gold-dust, making together one hundred +and thirty-five quintals, or 16,065 lb. English avoir-du-poids weight of +gold. + +_A Library of Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards,--Contests among +Christians reprimanded._ + +Muley Sidan, son of Muley Hamed, disputed the throne of Marocco, A.C. +1611, with three brothers, one of whom was supported by the Spaniards, +whose succour was purchased by his delivering into their hands the port +of L'Araich, soon after which they gained a naval victory over the +forces of Sidan, which was very disastrous to the Africans; for the +Spaniards, besides other plunder, got possession of 3000 Arabic books, +on theology, philosophy, and medicine. Sidan, however, notwithstanding +this disaster, maintained his right to the crown. He was of a liberal +and charitable mind. He protected and granted to the Christians various +privileges; but _he ordered that Christians of all sects, and +denominations should live in peace one with another_. + +One day, some (_Userah_) Christian slaves of Provence, in France, who +were Catholics, had a controversial dispute with others from Rochelle, +who were Calvinists. This dispute ended in a violent contest, +accompanied with blows on either side; this scene excited the curiosity +of the Muselmen, who were surprised to see Christians thus fight among +themselves on points of their own law! The report of this battle was +carried to Sidan, who ordered all these slaves to be brought before him. +He condemned some to a bastinado, which was inflicted in his presence. +He then addressed them thus:--"I command you all, on pain of death, not +to dispute in future on the various dogmas of your law: every one has +the presumption to think _himself_ right; and as I allow every +individual in my dominions to follow the religion that he chooses for +himself; _slaves ought to have among themselves the same toleration_". + +_Muley El Arsheed, (a second Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan.)_ + +This Sultan preceded the renowned Muley Ismael, on the throne of +Marocco: he united to great ability the most ferocious disposition, and +was continually inebriated.--He crossed the Sahara to Timbuctoo, with a +numerous army, about the year of Christ 1670; proceeding to _Suse_, he +laid siege to the Sanctuary of _Seedi Aly ben Aidar_, near _Ilirgh_: +Seedi Aly, making his escape in disguise, fled to Sudan, whither he was +followed by Muley El Arsheed, who, on his arrival on the confines of +Sudan, between Timbuctoo and Jinnie, was met by a numerous host of +Negroes, commanded by a black sultan: the Emperor demanded Aly ben +Aidar; but the sultan of Bambarra replied, that, as he had claimed his +protection, it would be an infringement on the laws of hospitality to +deliver him up, adding, that he desired to know if the views of El +Arsheed were hostile or not; to which the latter replied, after +endeavouring in vain to procure the person of Aly, that he was not come +hostilely, but was about to return, which he forthwith did: and the +Bambareen sultan, having received from Aly two beautiful renegade +virgins, was so much flattered with the present, that he promised him +any thing that he should ask; whereupon, he requested permission to go +to Timbuctoo, and to settle there with his numerous followers; which +being granted, he proceeded thither, and having established a Moorish +garrison, resided there several, months, and afterwards returned to +Barbary, bringing with him many thousand Bambareen negroes: but, on his +reaching Suse, he heard of the death of Muley El Arsheed, and having +then no farther occasion for these negroes, he dismissed them. They went +to various parts of the country, serving the inhabitants in order to +procure daily subsistence; but the arch-politician Muley Ismael, who had +then recently been proclaimed as his successor, ordered them to be +collected together, and incorporated in his negro army, which was, +however, before this, very numerous, consisting for the most part of +blacks, brought away from Sudan by Muley El Arsheed the preceding year. +The Sultan Ismael also seized this opportunity of establishing his +authority at Timbuctoo, and he met with little or no opposition in +putting that place under contribution. Having sent fresh troops to +occupy the Moorish garrison there, the inhabitants were glad to make a +contribution, in exchange for the protection and power which it afforded +them; for previous to this, they had been subject to continual +depredations, from the Arabs of the adjacent country, to whom they had +been compelled to pay tribute, as a security for their caravans, which +were constantly passing the country of these Arabs, who are of the race +of Brabeesh. In the year 1727, A.C. when Ismael died, it is reported +that he possessed an immense quantity of gold, of the purity of which, +his gold coins, to be seen at this day at Timbuctoo, bear testimony; it +is also said, that the massive bolts of his palaces were of pure gold, +as well as the utensils of his kitchens. After his decease, however, the +tribute was discontinued, and the Moorish garrison at Timbuctoo, +intermarrying with the natives, and dispersing themselves in the +neighbouring country, has given to Timbuctoo that tincture of Muselman +manners, which they are known to possess; their descendants forming, at +this period, a considerable portion of the population of Timbuctoo. + +_Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan_. + +Muley Ismael died of an abscess in 1727, and was succeeded by his +youngest son Muley Hamed Dehebby, a most avaricious prince, whose +treasure, collected in his government during the life of his father, +amounted to ten millions; to which was now added his father's treasury, +amounting to fifty millions, besides jewels and diamonds to a much +larger amount. + +Dehebby[318], sanguinary and cruel when sober, was mild, affable, and +humane when intoxicated: unlike Muselmen, he believed not in +predestination, but had always several surgeons and doctors in his +suite, and consulted them with the most unlimited confidence when ill. +He decorated the palace of Marocco: in one of the apartments of the +seraglio, of which he had had painted, in a superior style, the twelve +signs of the zodiac; for which his ignorant and bigoted subjects accused +him of having conspired against the Deity, in imitating, by gross and +ill-formed images, the works of the Almighty. This prince was an +intolerable drunkard; so that the Marabets and chiefs of the empire +called Abdelmelk to the throne, whom they enabled to take possession of +Mequinas. This prince, anticipating the revenge of Dehebby, proposed to +deprive him of his eye-sight; but the Marabets and chiefs opposed this +resolution and replied to him in the following words:--"It is not for +his crimes that we have deposed thy brother, but for his continual +intoxication, which prevented him from watching over the government and +his officers: he has therefore only been guilty of weakness, which is +not a punishable crime." Abdelmelk dared not push his point, but was +contented to send his brother to the (_Bled Shereef_), country of +princes, i.e. Tafilelt. Before Dehebby was dethroned, he marched with a +numerous army across Sahara, to Timbuctoo, of which he took possession, +and brought home immense quantities of gold. + + [Footnote 318: His proper name was Muley Hamed ben Ismael, the name + Dehebby is figurative of his riches in gold.] + +1730.--Muley Hamed Dehebby dying, should have been succeeded by his son +Muley Bouffer; but money and intrigue gave power to Abdallah, a son of +Muley Ismael, who was proclaimed in spite of the efforts of his nephew, +whom he attacked at Terodant, the capital of Suse. Bouffer was taken, +together with a Marabet, his confidential friend and counsellor. +Abdallah ordered them both to be brought before him.--"Thou art young," +said he to his nephew; "thou hadst imprudently undertaken more than thou +couldst accomplish; and in consideration of thy youth and inexperience, +I pardon thee, but I will be revenged of thy counsellor." Then turning +himself to the Marabet, "Thou, art a rebel," said he. "Didst thou +imagine that thy sacred character, which thou hast abused against thy +(_Seed_) Lord or King would prevent him from punishing thee? Let us see +if thy sanctity will turn the edge of my sword."--In uttering these +words, he struck off the saint's head. + + + + + I N D E X. + + * * * * * + + +A. + +ABDELMELK, the prince, moral reflection on his expensive apparel, +79. Is sent to Tafilelt, 80. +_Abolition_ of Slavery depends on the Africans themselves, not on +our naval force or operations, 270. +_Abstinence_ experienced in the Sahara, 353. Means used to support +it. Effects of, 354. +_Abbuselah Woled_, Arabs of, 138. +_Abdrahaman ben Nassar_, bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Abdsalam_, prince, departs for Tafilelt, through Draha and Bled el +jereed, 149. +_Abeed_, 481. Seedi Bukaree, emperor's body guard, 481. +_Aboukir_, battle of, its consequence to muselmen, 101. +_Acephali_, 198. +_Africa_, plan for the discovery of, 201. +_African_ Association, Institution, &c. recommended to unite their +energies and operations to cultivate a commercial intercourse with +Africa, 228. The same recommended an a large scale, 249. African +Company, a plan for, 251. African Association, disastrous +expeditions of, 258. An union of the African interests beneficial, +271. African duplicity exemplified, 293. African Association might +find the son of Ali Bey an acquisition in promoting their views, 304. +_African_ names, how pronounced, 491. +_Agadeer_, or Santa Cruz, port of, opened to Dutch commerce, 55. +Apprehensions at Mogodor from the establishment of Santa Cruz, 56. +Conveniently situated for the markets of Sudan. Denominated the gate +of Sudan, 56. Port of, farmed by Muley Ismael, 57. Author's arrival +at, to open the port to European commerce. Wretched state of its +inhabitants. Honourable reception of the author there, 59. +Disgraceful custom abolished by the author, 60. Propensity to +commerce among the people of Suse. Sanctuary at the entrance of the +town. Privilege of riding in and out of the town established by the +author, for Christians of all denominations, 61. Commercial road +made by the author down the mountain to facilitate the shipment of +merchandise, 62. The spirit of the natives in working at it. Happy +influence of commerce and industry on the people. Portuguese tower +in the neighbourhood, 63. Description of the town, 64. Strength of, +and convenient situation for a depot, 65. Mitferes, depositaries for +water, 65. Attempt of the Danes to establish a colony in its +vicinage, at Agadeer Arba. Battery at, 66. Safe road for shipping. +Inhabitants friendly to the English, 67. Port of, shut by the +Emperor, and the garrison and merchants ordered to go to Marocco, +and from thence to quit the country or establish at Mogodor, 79. +Negociation for the port of, from the emperor, 246. +_Agricultural_ property, division of, 330. Agriculture, 339. +_Aisawie_, or charmers of serpents described, 430. +_Ait Attar_, or Attarites, an independent kabyl or clan, 311. +_Akka_, 7. Depot for camels, 248. +_Akkaba_, kaffilas, or caravans to Timbuctoo, where eligible to be +established, 263. +_Akkaba_, what, 345. +_Akkad_, its signification, 411. +_Alk Sudan_, what, 345. +_Altitude_ of the Atlas mountains, 93, 94. +_Ali Bey_, an account of; 297. Suspicions entertained respecting +him. His magnificent mode of living. Excites the suspicion of the +governor of Marocco, 300. He is prevented from visiting the Atlas +mountains, 301. He is favoured by the emperor, 302. Stratagem +practised to ascertain what religion he followed. Ordered to embark +at Laraich. Is separated from his wife. Her conduct. He predicts an +eclipse, 303. Passes for a learned man. Suspected to be an agent of +Bonaparte. His son resides at Fas, patronised by the Marabet Muley +Dris or Idris, 304. +_Algiers_, attack of, recommended to the Emperor of Marocco, 283. +_Almonds_, plantations of, 74. +_Ambassador_, British, the author's interview with. Great +honor shown to him on his entry into Tangier, 127. +_Amber_, manufactured imitation of, at Fas, 126. 216. +_Amaranites_, or Ait Amaran, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Amak_, the poet, his sumptuous style of living, 353. +_Amorites_, of the, 475. +------, or Ait Amor, 122. Descendants of the ancient Amorites, 124. +Anecdotes of, 193. +_Amusements_ of Europeans at Marocco, 89. +_Anachronism_ of the author misapplied, 442. +_Angola_, natives of, how converted to Christianity, 442. +_Anti-commercial_ system, 211. +_Antiperistasis_ of the Africans, how promoted, 230. +_Antimony_ mines, 331. +_Anecdote_ of an Emperor, 307. +_Anecdotes_, fragments, and notes, 276. +_Antithesis_, a favourite figure with the Arabs, 349. +_Apparel_ of the emperor, plain and simple, 79. +_Arabs_, cookery of, 64. Riches of, in what they consist, 247. Dance +and music, 140. Abstinence of, 141. Beauty of their women, 142. +Patriarchal life of, 143. 196. Arab royalty personified, 195. +Customs of, 244. Of Sahara, hostile to those who do not understand +their language, 262. The manners of, resemble those of the +patriarchal ages, 276. The study of their language and customs the +best comment on the Old Testament, 276. Their territory and origin, +328. Decay of science and arts among, 352. +------, sheiks of, hold themselves accountable for the property, +baggage, &c. of travellers, 233. +_Arabic_ document distributed by Mr. Bowdich in Africa, to the +natives, unintelligible, 492. +------, language, on the, 471. The language of Palestine resembles +that of West Barbary, 473. +----------, general utility of, a practical knowledge of in Africa, +258. On the language, 357. Arabian music, 318. Arabic grammar, +errors in Richardson's, 351. Pure Arabic, where spoken, 351. Arabian +modes of writing, 350, Errors committed by professors of, who have +not a practical knowledge of the language, 39. +----------, universality of the, 473. +------, translations of documents in, furnished to government by the +author, 407. +------, manuscripts, 3000 taken by the Spaniards, 520. +------, interpreter, the author officiates as, with the prince Muley +Teib, 192. +_Architecture_ described, 90. Gothic prevails, 271. +_Argan_ tree, and oil of, 510. +------, trees, oil of the, productive of leprosy if not properly +prepared, 91. +_Ashantee_, intercourse through, with Timbuctoo objectionable, and +why, 249. +_Atlas_, foot of, a productive country, 74. Table land in, and +produce of, 75. Narrow defile or pass, 76. Calculated altitude of, 93. +_Attarites_, or Ait Attar, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Audiences_ of the emperor, introductory, of business, of leave or +departure, 89. +_Author's_ intelligence respecting the interior of Africa, +considered valuable, 99. +------, travels in disguise, 136. +_Azamore_, 110. + +B. + +_Bab_ Sudan, 456. +_Badge_ of distinction worn by the lepers, 91. +_Bahar_ Segrer, the Mediterranean designated by that term, +489. +------, Sudan, corroborative testimony of its situation, 450, 451, 465. +----------, situation of, 436. +------, Kulla, explanation of the term, 444. Ditto of Bahar Sudan, 448. +------, El Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, Atlantic Ocean designated by +that name, 489. +------, El Abeed, not Bahar El Abiad, 517. +_Ba_ Scafeena, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, 450, 465. +----------, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, properly +called Bahar S'feena, 506. +_Bank_, in West Barbary, recommended, 237. +_Banks_, Sir Joseph's letter to Mr. Dickson, respecting the death of +Mungo Park, a passage in it confirmed only in Mr. Jackson's +translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's account of that traveller's +death, brought by Mr. Bowdich from Ashantee, but not in Mr. Saleme's +translation, 425. The author's translation, 409. +_Barbary_, conquered by the Romans, by the Vandals, by the Greeks, +by the Arabs, 458. Partial conquest of by the Portuguese and +Spaniards, 458. +--------, travelling in, 293. +_Bashaw_ of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Bedouins_, emigration of. Camel's milk, their food, 203. Domestic +looms of. Manufactures of. Custom of, 204. Mode of living. Extempore +poetry of, 205. Manners of, 206. +_Beef_, mode of preserving for food in the desert, 349. +_Berebbers_, their contest with the emperor, 308. Their territory +and language, 327. Names of their clans or tribes, 124. Specimen of +their language, 367. +_Bernou_, etymology of, 449. +_Bism illak, and El Ham'd u lillah_, signification of, 231. +_Bonaparte_, his system respecting Africa, 229. +_Bouska_, exhibition of that monstrous serpent, 451. +_Brimstone_ mines, 331. +_British_ public, address to, 253. +_Buffe_, Dr. his medical success at Marocco, 396. He is recommended +to his majesty George the Third, and his majesty is requested, by +the emperor, to return him to Gibraltar, to reside there as the +emperor's physician, 397. +_Buhellessa_, the pretender, described, 287. He is an adept in the +occult sciences, 288. He marches with 22,000 men to attack Delemy's +castle, 289. He is vanquished and beheaded, 290. His army dispersed, +his head and feet sent to the Prince Muley Abdsalam, at Santa Cruz, +290. The prince rewards the man who killed the usurper: the author +visits the field of battle, which resembled the plains of Waterloo, 291. +_Buregreg_ river, 113. +_Burkhardt_, anticipation respecting, 449. +_Butellise_, or night-blindness, described, 332. +--------, or nyctalopia, an ophthalmia that affects our seamen in +the Mediterranean, 433. +_Butter_, melted, food in the desert, 6. + +C. + +_Camel_, the ship of the desert, 247. +_Caffer_, or Khaffer, signification of, 345. +_Cairo_, derivation of the name, 326. +_Canary_ language resembles the shelluh of Atlas, 381. +_Caravans_ accumulate as they proceed to the confines of Sahara, 4. +_Cape_ of Good Hope, how to preserve, and to improve its produce, + 339, 340. +_Cape de Verd_, compared to Ceuta, 229. +_Ceuta_, preparation for the siege of, by the emperor Muley +Yezzid, 403. +_Christians_, harmony among, necessary to precede the conversion +of Africa, 131. +_Christian_ religion, how to propagate it in Africa, 224. +--------, impediments to its propagation, 225. +--------, the influence of its principles in Africa, 227. +_Civilisation_ of Africa, the necessary result of commerce, and the +only plan by which an expectation of the conversion of the natives +to Christianity can possibly be indulged, 263. +----------, of Africa, through commerce, the only effectual means of +abolishing the slave trade, 270. +_Civil_ war prevalent in West and in South Barbary, 279. +_Characteristic_ trait of Muhamedans, 308. +_Christians_, ordered by the emperor, on pain of death, to live +peaceably with one another, 520. +_Christ_ acknowledged by muselmen, 240. +_Circumcision_, when performed among Muhamedans, 345. +_Cobas_ described, 272. +_Colonial_ produce, consequences of the cultivation of, in Senegal +by the French, 228. +_Commercial_ intercourse with Africa favourable to the propagation +of Christianity, 227. +----------, Recommended on a large scale, 249. 251. 259. +_Commercial_ adventurer in Africa more likely to succeed than a +scientific one, 259. +_Commerce_, the key of Africa, 428. +_Communication_ with Africa to be effected by the medium of +commerce, 493. +_Connubial_ customs, 313. +_Copper_ mines, 331. +_Corn_, abundant at Dar el Beida and at Fedalla, 110. + Abundance of, in West Barbary, 208. 340. +_Couriers_, confidence reposed in them, 405. +_Coffee_ of Timbuctoo, 279. +_Consuls_ of the European powers, their residence, 130. +_Congo_, Africans of, how converted to the Christian faith, 442. +_Continental_ markets of Europe, contemplation how they will be +supplied with colonial produce, 229. +_Cuscusoe_, or more properly Kuskasoe, an excellent food, mode of +preparing it, 97. +_Customs_, Muhamedan, 230. +_Cuba_, slave-trade and produce of, increased, 270. +_Customs_ of the shelluhs of Idaultit, and laws of, remarkable, 313. +_Customs_, ceremonies at funerals, 465. + +D. + +_Dances_ of the Arabs described, music of, 140. 344. +_Dates_ abundant at Tafilelt, 80. +_Dar el Beida_, a corn country, 110. +_Dead_, bodies of the, never interred in towns or in the mosques, 272. + Ceremony of interment, 273. +_Deism_, 325. +_Deef Allah_, what, 341. +_Decay_ of science and the arts among the Arabs, 352. +_Delel_, i.e. auctioneer of slaves at Marocco, 95. +_Deleim_, woled Arabs, 138. +_Decked_ vessels in the interior of Africa, 449. +_Delemy_, sheik of the Deleim Arabs, 138. + Invites the author and his companion, Signor Andrea de Christo, + to pass the night at a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, 139. + Garden of, described, 147. + Renown of, 148. + A main pillar to the throne of Marocco, 148. + Receives an exhortation from the prince Abdsalam to give battle + to the usurper Buhellessa, 288. + Dextrous in the management of a horse, 289. +_Desert_, rate of travelling through, 470. +_Dews_ of the night, how they secure themselves against, + when sleeping, 154. +_Deef Allah_, custom of uttering, 233. +_Dimenet_, in the Atlas, attacked by the emperor, 305. +_Difference_ between the oriental and occidental Arabic alphabets, 351. +_Djinawa_, definition of the name, 507. +_Distances_ from port to port, along the coast, calculated, 132. +_Discovery_ of Africa, plan for, 200. +_Disgrace_ of inhospitality, 240. +_Doctors_, itinerant, their apparatus, 242. +_Douars_, or villages of tents, described, 328. +_Draha_, province of, 2. + Hire of camels from Tafilelt to, 2. + Dates, the names of the different species, 3. + Plantations of, 3. + Inhabitants of nearly black, 2. + Character of them, 2. 7. +_Drahim_, what, 3. +_Driss Zerone Muley_, renowned sanctuary of, 118. + Author's hospitable reception there, and admission to the + adytum, 119. +_Duplicity_ of the Africans exemplified, 293. 314. + +E. + +_East_ India trade, our, how likely to be affected by French +colonisation, in Senegal, 229. +_Ebekoaits_, or Ait Ebeko, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Effah el_, exhibition of that venomous serpent, 453. +_Elephants_, 8. +_Elegant_ females, 142. +_Emperor_ admits an ambassador without prostration, and why, 282. +--------, Yezzid is wounded, and dies, 285. + His body exhumated, 286. + Compared to his majesty George the Fourth, 287. +_Emperor_, anecdote of one, 307. + His contest with the Berebbers, 308. + Letter from him to his bashaw of Suse respecting English seamen + wrecked on the western coast of Africa, 364. + Titles of H.I.M., 382. + Style of addressing him, 382. +_Emperor's_ letters, 384, 387, 392, 394, 395, 398, 402, 403, 405. +----, plan of reconciling catholics with protestants, 520. +----, table, simplicity of the furniture of, 96. +----, audience of business of the, 98. + Audience of leave in the garden of the Nile, 98. +_Embassy_, British, to Marocco, result of, 128. +_Encroachments_ of the French anticipated on our colonial arkets, 230. +_Encyclopedia_ Britannica, misapplication of an anachronism, 442. + The editor of has adopted the author's opinion respecting + the course of the Niger, 447. +_Epistolary_ correspondence, 382. +_Epistolary_ diction used by Muhamedans, 404. +_Equity_, case of, 312. +_Esshume_, See _Shume_. +_Euphorbium_ plant, 74. +_European_ merchants at Mogador in danger of being decollated + by order of the emperor, on a charge of high-treason, 284. + +F. + +_Fas_, bankrupts, how treated at, 16. + Is the metropolis of the north, 87. + Talb Cadus, 87. +----, gold thread manufactured at, of a superior quality, 126. + Manufactures, various of, 126. +----, houses of the merchants of, described, and gardens at, 275. + Library at, 324. +_Fakeers_, or muselmen-saints excite hostility between Christians + and Muhamedans, 267. +_Fedalla_, corn country, 110. +_Fig-trees_, very large, 82. +_Food_, 316. + Food of the desert, 349. +----, of the Arabs similar to that used in the days of Abraham, 243. +_Fourban_, Comte de, anecdote of, 112, 113. +_Fragments_, notes, and anecdotes, 276. +_French_ army, landing of, in Egypt, 100. +_Fruits_ of all kinds abundant at Salee and Rabat, 114, 125. +_Fruga_, town of, 76, 78. + +G. + +_Game_, plentiful. Not sold in the public market. Custom + on shooting it, 338. + Strangled, what game so called, 338. +_Garrison_ of Tangier salutes the ambassador, 127. +_Garb el_, what, so called, 2. +_Garden_, imperial, the merchants encamped at Marocco in, 88. + Names and produce of, 81. +_Geography_ of Africa, on the, 474. +_George_ IV. compared to the Emperor Muley Yezzid, 287. +----, a patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Genoa_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Girwan ait_, or Girwanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Gold dust_, gold bars, wrought gold, 67. +----, and bars, consignment of, to Fas from Timbuctoo, 347. +_Gold thread_, superior manufactory of, at Fas, 215. +----, of a superior quality, manufactured at Fas, 126. +_Government_, offer to it, to discover the remedy for nyctalopia, 335. +_Great Britain_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Grored el_, or sandy desert of Mogodor, 83. +_Gum_ Sudan, 67. + Gum Barbary, 67. + Gum Euphorbium, 74. + Gum sandrac. Gum ammoniac, 67. +----, called in England, Turkey gum Arabic, 345. +_Gun-barrels_, manufacture of, 331. +_Gutta serena_, probable remedy for the cure of, 335, 336. +Galvanism, beneficial in, 336. + +H. + +_Hawking_, and hunting the boar, sports followed by princes, 338. +_Hassua el_, described, 242. +_Heirie_, Jackson's account of, confirmed by Colonel Fitzclarence, 489. +_Hel shual_, and Hel elkilleb, what, 198. + Hel ferdie, what, 200. +_Hemeralopia_, or night-blindness described, 332. +_Henna_, an herb with which the Arabian, Moorish, Shelluh, Berebber, + and Jewish women dye their feet, hands, and hair, and why, 512. +_Hire_ of camels from Akka to Santa Cruz, 346. +_Hogan's_ embassy to the emperor of Marocco, from queen Elizabeth, 489. +_Honey_ of Haha, 153. +_Hospitality_ of the Arabs, cultivators of west and south + Barbary, 131. 239. +----------, laws of, 340. Disinterested hospitality shown to the + author, 342. Inviolability of the laws of, among the Bedouin + Arabs, 343. +_Howara_, an Arab clan, take possession of Assouan in Egypt, 74. +-------, Arabs, hunting the boar with. They took the city + of Assouan in Egypt, about four centuries ago, 245. +_Houses_ at Marocco and elsewhere described, 274. +_Housa_, travelling there safe, 37. Great traffic on the Nile of +Sudan. Niles, how denominated, 39. Description of the country +adjacent to, 40. Situation and size of the palace of, and +description of the city of, 41. Government of; administration of +justice at, 42. Landed property, 43. Revenues of; army, 44. Trade, +45. Climate, zoology, diseases, religion, 48. Persons; dress, 49. +Buildings; manners, 50. Gold, 51. Limits of the Empire of; pottery; +Timbuctoo tributary to it, 53. Small-pox, inoculation for, 54. +_Hutton_, Catherine, her observations on an intercourse with + Africa, 264. +_Hulacu_, the Tartar, conqueror of the east. His letter to the +sultan of Aleppo, 399. +_Hypotheses_, various, respecting the Niger, 447. + +I. + +_Jackson's_ report corroborated, 467. +_Idautenan_, independence of, 147. Superior grapes of, 147. + The country described, 147. +_Idiaugomoron_, 151. +_Idaultit_, customs of, 313. +_Jedrie_, the African name for the small-pox in horses, mules, + asses, and oxen, 337. +_Jelabia,_ garment so called, described, 200. +_Jerf el suffer_, the yellow cliff, 109. +_Jew_, great present made by one for the privilege of wearing + the European costume, 297. +_Jews_, a distinct race from the Africans, rendered so from + their particular laws and customs, &c. 230. +------, funeral cry of, 464. Funeral ceremonies of, 235. +------, massacre of, at Algiers, 283. How estimated in the empire + of Marocco, 328. +_Jinnie_, manufacture of gold filligrane at, 126. +_Impediments_ to our knowledge of Africa. What they are, 266. +_Inactivity_, or want of vigilance severely reprehensible in the + officers of the Marocco government, 203. +_Incorrect_ orthography of African names, 468. +_Indigo_ plant, 74. +_Interest_ of money, 237. +_Intercourse_, commercial, with Africa, recommended to be adopted + on a grand national scale, 249. 263. +_Interest_ of the Arabs of Sahara; how it would be united with a + colony on the coast, 248. +_Information_ from Africans respecting Africa, not contemptible, 434. +_Insolvency_ laws, 343. 397. +_Intoxication_, various modes of, 329. +_Invoice_ from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, 345. Ditto from ditto to + Fas, 347. +_Invasion_ of the country by Christians, a tradition of, 225. +_Invocation_ for the author's welfare made by the Fakeers of the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, 119. +----------, for the welfare of the British embassy. +_Journey_, in disguise, at a critical period, 135. +_Journies_, viz. from Mogodor to Rabat; to Mequinas; to the + sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone; and to the ruins of Pharaoh; + through the country of Amorites to L'Araich and Tangier, 105. +_Irrigation_, wheel for, 13. +_Iron_ mines, 331. +_Isa_ Seedy ben, fascinators of serpents, 455. +_Isawie_ (fascinators of serpents) their performance, 453. +_Justice_, moral, 306. + +K. + +_Kaaba_, Muhamed's mausoleum, so called, 273. +_Kadder Khan_, king of Turkostan, a great support to science, 352. +_Kaffer_, the application of this term, 510. +------, (or Caffre) its signification, 267. 345. +_Kassar Kabeer el_, a beautiful country, 124. +_Kereb_, what, 5. +_Key_ of Africa is commerce, 428. +_Keyma_, its definition, 307. +_Khalif Delemys_, noble conduct to the prince Abdsalsm, 288. +_Kibla_, i. e. the tomb of Muhamed, 9. +_Kiffen_, signification of, 273. +_King_ George IV. compared to the late emperor of Marocco, Muley + Yezzid, 287. A patron to science and the arts, 429. +_Kitiwa ait_, or Kituvites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Koba_, or coba, 88. +_Koran_, called the beloved book. Etymology of the word, 318. + Incorrectly called the Alcoran, l'Alcoran, or il Alcorano, 351. + Written in good language, 353. + +L. + +_L'aad_ of the Arabs described, 289. +_Language_, etiquette of, at the court of Marocco, 315. +_Languages_ of Africa, 355. +_L'Araich_, forest of. Ferry of, 125. +_Laws_ of insolvency, 343. +_Lead_ mines, 331. Lead-ore mines, 331. +_Leather_ superior manufactory of, at Mequinas and Marocco, 217. + Articles used in the manufacture of leather, 218. +_Leghorn_, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. +_Leper's_ town or village near Marocco, 90. Mendicant lepers, 91. +_Library_ at Fas, 324. +_Lions_, country abounding in. Mode of destroying them. Preservation + against, 115. +_Liquorice_ root, abundant in Suse, 74. +_Locusts_, their incredible devastation described, 221. Mode of +collecting them, 222. Used as food; method of preparing them; much +esteemed as food, 222. Remarkable instance of these insects having +devoured every blade of grass south of the river Elkos, but not +north of that river, 223. +_Love_, Arabian definition of, 363. +_Loyalty_ of the sheiks of Suse, 288. Of Muhamedans, 326. +_Ludaia_ are not Ludama, 507. +_Lybia_ palus and sea of Sudan synonymous, 448. + +M. + +_Majesty_, His, George IV. patron of science and the arts, 429. + Compared to the late emperor Yezzid, 287. +_Mandinga_ language compared with the Arabic, 373. +_Manufactures_ of Fas; superior manufacture of gold-thread there, 214. +_Marabets_, what, 511. +_Marabet_, punishment of one, 524. +_Market_ called Soke Elkhummes, 94. +_Marocco_, emperor's march to, 73. Country abundant in +corn of a superior quality, 78. Reception at salutations +of the Moors, 78. Gate called Beb el Lushoir; its situation, +78. Garden of the Nile, an imperial garden, 79. +Tafilelt rose flourishes at Marocco; its powerful perfume; +otto of roses, 79. Roses; various flowers abundant; +Persian wheel in general use throughout the country, 82. +Divisions of the empire of, 86. The summer residence +of the emperor, 86. The metropolis of the south, 87. +Town or village of lepers at, 90. Policy of concealing +the appearance of wealth at, 95, Furniture of houses at, +95. Customs at, 95. All trades carried on at, 98. +--------, etiquete of the court of, 310, Emperor dispenses + with, 311. +_Marseilles_, its commerce indirectly with Timbuctoo, 254. +_Massacre_ of the Jews at Algiers, 283. +_Matamores_, what, 14. 195. +_Matra_, J.M., his excellency the British ambassador, treated + by the emperor like a prince, 128. +--------, his intelligence respecting vaccine pus, 337. +_Mauritannick_ writing, what, 351. +_Mazagan_, 109. Country of, and inhabitants described, 109. +_Mekka_ caravan, i. 4. +_Mendicant_ lepers, their exclamation, 91. +_Mensoria el_, 110. +_Mequinas_, city of the court-town; travelling, mode of; 88. + Imperial palace at, 117. Beauty of the ladies of, 118. +--------, superior leather and shoes made at, 98. +_Merchandize_, consignment of, from Timbuctoo to Fas, 348. +----------, the various, the produce of Sudan, 256. +_Messa_, visit to the port of, 145. Gold and silver mines of, 146. +_Minister's_ house at Marocco, a noble one, 90. +--------, suggestions recommended to their attention, 230. +_Mitfere_, or cistern, magnificent, at Mazagan, 109. +_Mitferes_, what, 90. Expediency of, 210. +--------, described, magazines for grain, 339. Custom observed when + opened, 339. +_Mogodor_, duties at, doubled, 74. Merchants of, present themselves + to the emperor, 87. +--------, duties at, reduced to the old standard through the + influence of Muley Abd el Melk ben Dris, 128. +--------, merchants in danger of being beheaded, 284. +_Monopodia_ of the ancients compared to a Moorish table, 281. +_Months_, or moons, Muhamedan, their names, 371. +_Money_, interest of, 237. +_Moors_, 1. +---------, their language and residence, 327. +_Moorish grace_ at meals, 96. +----------customs, 281. +_Morbeya_, river of, divides the northern from the southern division + of the empire, 86. +_'Msharrah Rummellah_, plains of, 124. + Described, 195. +_'Mtasseb_, what, 126. +_Muden_, what, 111. +_Muhamedan princes_, treaties with, 283. +--------------loyalty, 326. +--------------, their claims to hospitality, 341. +--------------customs, 349. +_Mules_, not used in the desert, 5. +_Muley_ Abdsalam's domain in the oasis of Ammon, 280. +--------Yezzid, the emperor, compared to his Majesty, George IV., 287. +---------Abdrahaman, anecdote of, 322. +---------Ismael, anecdote of, 323. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to captain Kirke at + Tangier, ambassador from Charles II,, dated A.D. 1682. 384. +---------Ismael, his letter to sir Cloudesly Shovel at Salee, 387. + Sir Cloudesly's answer, 389. +---------Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to queen Anne, 392. +---------Yezzid, emperor of Marocco, his letter to the Dutch + consul, 402. +---------Ismael's, emperor, gold coins at Timbuctoo, 522. +---------Hamed, son of Muley Moluck, an account of his expedition + to Timbuctoo, &c. 519. +---------Sidan, loses 3000 Arabic books, 520. + Muley El Arsheed, his expedition to Timbuctoo, 521. + Muley Hamed Dehebby, commonly called Deiby, his expedition + to Timbuctoo, 523. +_Mungo Park_ at Timbuctoo, 319. +_Murder_, punishment for, 343. +_Mushoir_, or place of audience, 89. +_Music_, and Arab dance, 141. + +N. + +_Nasari_, the application of the term, 510. +_Nassar_, Abdrahaman Ben, the bashaw of Abda, interview with, 136. +_Nations_, the respective costumes of, enjoined, 296. +_Negro_ languages, thirty-three different ones spoken, 370. +_Negroes_, opinion respecting, 466. Mental degradation of, + imputable, in some measure, to the cruel treatment of + them in the West India islands, 466. +_Neel_, a name applied to two rivers in Africa only, 507. +_Nile_, at Kabra, its width, 471. +----, the correct orthography in English is Neel, 79. +_Niger_, contemplated result of the discovery of its course and + termination, 99. Opinion concerning its course, 103. +_Nile el Kabeer_, Nile Assudan, synonymous with Niger, 201. +----, or Nile of Sudan, discharges itself in a lake, 449. +------, and the Nile, 515. Theory respecting, 515. The author's + opinion of this river never varied, 516. +------, or Neel el Abeed, discharges itself into the Mediterranean + sea at the Delta, in Egypt, 518. +_Nile_, this word is improperly spelled, 507. +_Niles_, anticipation of the confirmation of their junction, 434. +_Nile_ Abid, or Neel el Abeed, error respecting its situation, 435. +_Niles_, junction of, where supposed to take place, 444. Not + doubted in Africa, but supported by the general testimony + of the natives, 445. +_Nile_, the word applied only to two rivers in Africa, 447. +_Nishki_, manner of writing, 350. Synonymous with the Kufie. +_North_ African, or Sudan Company, plan for one, 251. +_Nyctalopia_, or night-blindness, 332. +----------, description of, and remedy, 432. Offer to discover the + remedy, 432. +----------, an ophthalmia, that affects our seamen in the + Mediterranean, 433. Offer to discover the remedy for to + government, 433. + +O. + +_Oasis_, western, 280. +_Oil_ of olives, 67. Oil organic, 91. +_Olive_ plantations of Ras el Wed, 77. +_Ophthalmia_, disorders at Marocco prevail among the Jews, 92. +_Opinions_ of the Africans respecting Jews, Christians, and + themselves, 315. +_Oranges_ of Rabat, superior in quality, and low in price, 114. +_Oranges_, 75. + Orange-trees, very large, 82. +_Ostrich's_ feathers, 67. +_Ostriches_ presented by the Emperor Muley Ismael to Queen Anne, 593. + +P. + +_Palace_, imperial, at Tafileet, magnificent, 80. +_Palaces_ described, 274. + Architecture of, 274. +_Partridges_, mode of hunting among the Arabs, 107. +_Park_, Mungo, at Timbuctoo, 319. +----, his arrival at Timbuctoo confirmed, 470. +----, the author's translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's + account of that traveller's death, 409. + Mr. Abraham Saleme's translation of the same document, 413. +_Persian_, or Arabian wheel described, mode of irrigation, 147. +_Pharaoh_, ruins of, 80. 121. +_Philanthropists_ dig wells for public accommodation, 150. +_Physicians_ fly at the approach of the plague, 165. +_Piracy_, if the slave-trade were made piracy it would not + abolish the traffic, 270. +_Plague_, fragments respecting, 156. + Progress of, 157. + Decrease, 161. + The plague political, 164. + Emperor's minister attacked by it, writes to the British consul + for advice, 165. +----, supposed origin of, 166. + The author an eye-witness of it, and visited the infected, 167. + Progress of, 167. + Remarkable instance of a village in the neighbourhood of + Mogador being free from the epidemy thirty-four days + after it appeared at Mogador, although the communication + was open between the two places, 168. + Haha, destruction in, by the plague, 169. + Peculiarities of, 169. + Destruction of the plague in Suse, 169. + General depopulation caused by it, 170. + Consequences of, on the survivors, 171. + Gradations in society overturned by the plague, 171. + Emigrations from Sahara consequent to the plague, 172. + Symptoms, various of, 173. + Olive oil, external application of, infallible, supposed origin + of, 174. + Superstitious opinion respecting the plague, 175. + Author's precaution against, 177. + Fear, its effect in communicating the infection, 178. + Remedies used, 178. + How caught, 179. Plague cases of, 180. +_Plague_, avoided, by adhering to the principle of avoiding +personal contact and inhalation, 189. Olive oil, infallible +remedy for, 189. +------, 419. Remedy for, 423. +_Plough_, primitive, used by the Arabs, 511. +_Pomegranates_, 75. +_Policy_ of the court of Marocco, 211, 212, 280. +------, adopted by the emperor to secure the allegiance of + the Berebbers, 306. +------, of West Barbary, 320. +_Poculum amicitiae_, goblet compared to, 232. +_Political_ economy of the emperor, in not going to war with + Algiers, 283. +--------, deception, 309, 314. +_Portugal_, sovereign of, his zeal in converting the Africans to + the Christian doctrine, 443. +_Portuguese_ penetrated far into West Barbary, 324. +_Portfolio_, monthly miscellany, observations on, 464. +_Precision_, unfavourable to truth, according to Mungo Park's + annotator, 446. +_Present_ to the emperor, etiquette of delivering it, presentation + to, 89. +------, received from the emperor, 98. +_Prince_, Muley Teib, conduct of, to Dr. Bell. Satisfied with + the doctor's medicines, 197. +_Property_, agricultural division of, 330. +_Prognosticated_ prosperity from the prayers of benediction of + the marabats or fakeers of the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone. +_Prostration_ practised at the court of Marocco, 281. +_Protection_ among the Arabs a sacred duty when claimed, 343. +_Punishment_ for murder, 343. +_Pyramidical_ basis on which is founded the intelligence in + Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c., 451. + +Q. + +_Quarterly_ journal, of literature, science, and the arts, + error of, 435, 438. +_Queen_ Elizabeth, embassy to the emperor of Marocco, 494. + +R. + +_Rabat_, arrival at, 110. Town described. Aqueduct. Mausoleum +of the Sultan Muhamed at, described. Battery + of, bomb-proof. Bastions. Roman spring at. Old Roman + town of Sheila at, described. Old Roman coins, 111. + Mosques, tower of Hassan, similar to one at Timbuctoo, + &c. described, 112. +_Rabat_ and Salee, abundant countries, 113. +_Religions_, of all kinds, tolerated at Timbuctoo. +_Repast_, or dinner, sent by the prince Muley Teib, 192. +_Retaliation_ for murder, an incumbent duty on tha individuals + of a family, 295. +_Revenge_ of the Shelluhs, described, 152. +--------, of the Shelluhs for murder rigidly pursued, 291. +_Richardson_, incorrect in calling the Arabic guttural letter, + _grain_, ghain, 492. +_Richardson's_ Arabic grammar, some errors in, 351. +_Riches_ of the Arabs, in what it consists, 247. +_Rivers_, in sandy districts, change their courses, 440. +_Robbery_, singular mode of, 116. +_Rontgen_, African traveller, death of, 425. + +S. + +_Santa Cruz_, the port of, delivered to the Dutch, 403. +--------, See _Agadeer_. +-------, or Agadeer, the key to Sudan, 268. +-------, invoice from Timbuctoo to, 345. +------- opened to Dutch commerce by the author, 436. +_Sanctuary_ of Muley Dris Zerone, 80. +_Saffy_, its road for shipping described, 108. + Situation and description of, 108. +_Sahara_, north part described, no water, 4. + South part described, 7. + Water carried in goat-skins, 5. + Sheiks of, independent, +--------, Arabs of, prefer sleeping in the open air, 155. +_Salee_, dungeon of, for Christian captives, 114. +------, and Rabat, the adjacent country productive, 113. +_Salutations_, peculiar character of their, 235. +_Saneet Urtemma_, a dangerous country, 110. +_Sand_ baths, 279. +_Science_ and the arts, decay of, among the Arabs, 352. +_Sebu_, river, situation of, 438. + +_Sejin Messa_, etymology of the name, vulgarly called + Segilmessa, 145. +_Senegambia_, 70. +_Serpents_, charmers of, described, 430. +--------, domestic, of Marocco, 213. +_Servants_ of the emperor, policy of, 280. + +_Shegar_, signification of, and misinterpretation, 441. +_Sheh_, the Arabic name for worm-seed, 5. +------, the plant designated, 510. +_Shella_, an old Roman town, 112. +_Shelluh_, revenge of, described, 152. +------, repast, described. Patriarchal cakes of, 153. + Customs of, 154. 313. +------, language, specimen of, 366. +_Shelluhs_, revenge and retaliation, 291. +------, their territory described, 327. +_Sheshawa_, plains of, 82. + Mountains of, strata of oyster-shells at the top of, 82. + River of, 82. +_Shume el_, the hot wind of Sahara so denominated, 5. +_Shoemaker_, an honourable trade, 98. +_Shovel_, Sir Cloudesley, his letter to the emperor of Marocco. +_Sigen Messa_, face of that country, 81. +_Silver_ mines of Elala, 218. +------, mine, 331. +_Siwah_, language of, similar to the Shelluh, 370. +_Slavery_, state of, in Africa, 219. + Cannot be abolished but by commerce, 269. +_Slaves_, mode of selling them, 95. +_Slave_ trade, not to be abolished by any naval force however + formidable, 269. +_South_ Africa, policy of constructing mitferes there, 339. +How that colony might be improved in the value of its + produce, 340. +----------, colony of, policy and expediency of building + mitferes there, 339. + How to improve that colony, 340. +_Storks_, abundance of, at Azamore, 110. +_Style_ used in addressing the emperor, 383. +_Subterraneous_ hordes, propensity to, 238. +_Sudan_, gum of, 67. +------, trade with, 277. +------, company, plan for one, 251. +------, command of the commerce of, how to be obtained, 67. +------, produce of, 67. +_Sugar_, figurative of friendship, 234. +_Sulphur_ mines, 331. +_Sultan_ Muhamed's letter to the European consuls, 394. + To the governor of Mogodor, 405. +--------, Soliman's letter to his majesty George III., 395. +_Superstitious_ tradition, 460. +_Suse_, province of, inaccessible to an invading army from + the north, 76. +_Synonymous_ words in sound, 362. + +T. + +_Tabia_ walls, what, 2. Mode of building them. +_Tafilelt_, 1. A rendezvous for caravans; kassars of; hire of +camels from Fas to; a country of princes, 2. Market +at, 2. Palace, imperial, magnificent at, 80. Dates +abundant at, 80. Magnificent plantations and extensive +forests of, 81. Faith and honour of the natives proverbial; +robberies unknown there, 81. +_Talleyrand_, his favourite African scheme, 229. +_Talh-tree_ defined, 510. +_Tangier_ garrison, salute to the British ambassador on his + entry there, 127. +_Tas_, what it is, 231. +_Tatta_, a depot for camels, 248. +_Tendaraman_, venomous spider described, 429. +_Tensift_, river of, 108. +_Tildie_, repast, Arab, at; Portuguese tower at, 63. Cookery + of the Arabs at, 64. +_Timbuctoo_, situation of, and charge of travelling to, 7. +City of; river close to it, 8. Population of; extent of; +caravanseras of; slaves at, 10. Houses; government, 11. +Revenue of, 12. Moors pay no duty at, but negroes +do, 14. Subject to Housa, 14. Army of; subsidies; +administration of justice at; punishments, 15. Good +police of, 16. Insolvent debtors at; slaves entitled to +freedom at; property, succession to and distribution of; +rational treatment of slaves at; wills not written, 18. +Laws of inheritance; marriage; rape; adultery, 19. +Trade and articles sold at, 20. Manufactures, 23. Measures, +23. Husbandry, 24. Sowing season; provisions, 25. +Animals; birds, 26. Fish; prices of various articles, 27. +Costume, 28. Diversions, 31. Time, measurement of; +Religion, 32. Diseases, 33. Manners and customs, 34. +Neighbouring nations, 35. +--------, opportunity of opening a trade with, why declined, 145. +--------, how likely to be made tributary to Great +Britain, 249. Circuitous commerce of, explained, 256. +Direct and eligible route to, through Sahara from the +shores of the Atlantic Ocean, 257. +--------, value of merchandize at, 260. Immense profit +actually made in, 261. Immense quantities of gold +to be procured from Sudan, 261. Goods entering the +city at the gate of the desert pay no duty, 263. Timbuctoo +coffee, 279. Invoice from, 345. 347. Letter from, 346. 348. + +_Timbuctoo_, Mungo Park at, 319. +----------, warehouses of, contain the manufactures, of India + and Europe, 427. + Communication with, plan for opening, 428. +----------, intelligence respecting, whence derived, 436. +----------, cotton manufacture, made in the city of, interwoven + with silk, of a chequered pattern, deposited in the + British Museum, 437. + Situation of, in respect to the Neel el abeed, 439. + Under the sovereignty of a negro prince, 441. + Fish at, resembling salmon, 469. +--------, first expedition to and conquest of, 519. +--------, second expedition to, 521. +--------, third expedition to, 523. +_Titles_ of emperor, 382. +_Togreda_, ceremony of, how performed, 231. +_Tomie_, or Sebah Biure, port of; the author visits it by the + prince's request, 138. + Arab dance and festivity in the neighbourhood of, 141. + Music of, 140. +_Trade_ with Sudan, 277. +_Travellers_, solitary or scientific, little expectations from, + 258. +_Travelling_ in Barbary, 293. +_Treaties_ with Muhamedan princes, 283. +_Troglodyte_, 319. + +U. + +_Uffran_, a depot for camels, 248. +_Uly_ and Ualy, material difference between these two terms, 350. +_Unity_ among Christians a necessary prelude to the conversion + of Africa. The several sects of Christians should + unite, instead of being divided, as an expedient measure + necessary to precede the conversion of Africa, 129. +_Union_ of waters between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 447. + +V. + +_Vaccination_, intelligence transmitted from West Barbary + instrumental in the propagation of, 337. + 23,134 lives saved by vaccination, 338. +_Vasco de Gama's_ observations on intercourse with Africa, 258. +_Vincent_, Lord St. his message to the Emperor of Marocco, 459. +_Vines_, the grapes of which are of an extraordinary size, 74. + +W. + +_Water_ communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 443. + This opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornmann, 444. +------, communication between Cairo and Timbuctoo, the + opinion respecting, receives additional confirmation, 517. +------, melons at Salee and Rabat peculiarly sweet, 114. +------, carried through the Sahara in goat's skins. +_Wah el_, what, 6. +_Wahs_ of Sahara, how supplied with fish, 257. + Western oasis, 280. +_Wangara_, jewel from, 103. +_Wassenah_, or Massenah, conjecture why not known at + Ashantee, 491. +_Wed el fees_, river of, 82. +_Whedinoon_, a depot for camels. +_Wheat_, superior at Marocco, 95. +------, a superior kind or quality, 125. +_Wild_ myrtle grows in the Sahara, 6. +_Wine_ Company recommended, 212. +_Woled Aisah_, encampment of Arabs. Produce of that country, 109. +_Wool_, exportation of, granted by the emperor. +_Woladia el_, an eligible place for a naval depot, 108. +_Woolja_, not Woolga, 109. +_Woled Abbusebah_, a whole clan of Arabs, banished from the + plains near Marocco, and plundered, killed or dispersed, 318. +_Woolo_, king of Timbuctoo, 484. +_Wormseed_, 74. +_Wrecked ships_, 277. + How treated, 278. + Wrecked sailors, 279. +_Wyk_, Sir Pieter, Swedish consul, his courier sent to the + author, 127. + +Y. + +_Yezzid Muley_, gives the port of Santa Cruz to the Dutch, 436. +----------, emperor of Marocco, compared to his majesty + George the Fourth, 287. + His letter to the Dutch consul, 402. + His letter to the governor of Mogador, giving to the Dutch the + port of Santa Cruz, 402. + +Z. + +_Zealand_, New, customs of, compared to those of the Jews, 236. +_Zeal_ of Mohamedans not sufficient to convert the negro nations + of Africa, 442. +_Zeef_, what it is, 231. +_Zemurh ait's_, or Zemurhites, a kabyl of Berebbers, 115. +_Zion ait's_, or Zianites, a tribe, or kabyl of Berebbers, 124. +_Ziltanait_, or Ziltanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. +_Zimurh_ shelluh, Berebbers of, their character, 284. + + + + +THE END. + + +Printed by A. and K. Spottiswoode, +Printers-Street, London. + + + + +_Works by the same Author_. + +An account of the EMPIRE OF MAROCCO and the DISTRICTS OF SUSE AND +TAFILELT, compiled from Miscellaneous Observations made during a +long residence in, and various Journies through, these Countries. + +TO WHICH IS ADDED, + +An Account of SHIPWRECKS ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA, and an +Account of Timbuctoo, the great Emporium of Central Africa; +illustrated with ACCURATE MAPS and a variety of highly finished +PLATES. Third edition. _Considerably enlarged with new and +interesting matter_. + +Sold by Cadell and Davies, London; and by W. Blackwood, Edinburgh. + + * * * * * + + +_Preparing for the press_. + + +A GRAMMAR of the ARABIC LANGUAGE. + +No accurate Grammar of the Arabic Language has ever yet issued from +the British Press!--It is extraordinary that the many professors of +_that bold and figurative language of the East_, have never yet +favoured the public with such a desirable work.--An attempt will now +be made, by the above author, to supply in England this deficiency +in Oriental Literature. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa +Territories in the Interior of Africa, by Abd Salam Shabeeny + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO *** + +***** This file should be named 22631.txt or 22631.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/6/3/22631/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Renald Levesque and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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