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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont.
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<p><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/042.jpg" alt="SPECIMENS OF PATTERN DARNS." title="" />
<span class="caption">SPECIMENS OF PATTERN DARNS.</span>
</div>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a name="Mending" id="Mending"></a>Mending.</h2>
<p>The mending of wearing-apparel and house-linen, though
often an ungrateful task, is yet a very necessary one, to which
every female hand ought to be carefully trained. How best
to disguise and repair the wear and tear of use or accident
is quite as valuable an art, as that of making new things.</p>
<p>Under the head of mending, we include the strengthening
and replacing of the worn and broken threads of a fabric, and
fitting in of new stuff in the place of that which is torn or
damaged. The former is called darning, the latter, patching.</p>
<p><b>Darning.</b>—When only a few of the warp or woof threads
are torn or missing, a darn will repair the mischief, provided
the surrounding parts be sound. When the damage is more
extensive, the piece must be cut out.</p>
<p>In some cases the warp of the stuff itself can be used for
darning, otherwise thread as much like the stuff as possible
should be chosen.</p>
<p><b>Materials suitable for mending.</b>—Coton à repriser D.M.C
is used for most kinds of darning. It can be had in 18 different
sizes, from Nos. 8 to 100, white and unbleached, and in
all the colours of the D.M.C colour-card in Nos. 12, 25 and 50.</p>
<p>It is but very slightly twisted and can be split or used
double, if necessary, according to the material. For all the
coarser articles of house-linen, unbleached cotton is the best,
<a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>and for the finer white fabrics, Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 110,
120 and 150<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>. This cotton, which is not the least twisted,
and is to be had both white and unbleached, can be used, by
subdividing it, for darning the finest cambric.</p>
<p><b>Varieties of darning.</b>—These are four, (1) Linen darning,
(2) Damask darning, (3) Satin or Twill darning, and (4) Invisible
darning, called also, Fine-drawing.</p>
<p><a name="linen_darning" id="linen_darning"></a>(1) <b>Linen Darning</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_40">40</a> and <a href="#fig_41">41</a>).—All darns should be
made on the wrong side of the stuff, excepting fig. <a href="#fig_54">54</a>, which it
is sometimes better to make on the right side. The longitudinal
running, to form the warp, must be made first. The
thread must not be drawn tightly in running your stitches
backwards and forwards, and be careful to leave loops at each
turning, to allow for the shrinking of the thread in the
washing, without its pulling the darn together.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/043.jpg" alt="FIG. 40.
LINEN DARNING. DRAWING IN THE
WARP THREADS." title="" />
<a name="fig_40" id="fig_40"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 40.
Linen darning. Drawing in the
warp threads.</span>
</div>
<p>Run your needle in, about one c/m. above the damaged
part, take up one or two threads of the stuff and miss the same
number, working straight to a thread; on reaching the hole,
carry your cotton straight across it, take up alternate threads
beyond, and proceed as before. Continue the rows backwards
and forwards, taking up in each row, the threads left in the
<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>preceding one. Turn the work round and do the same for the
woof; alternately taking up and leaving the warp threads,
where the cotton crosses the hole. The threads must lie so
alone both ways, that the darn, when completed, replaces the
original web. The threads are only drawn so far apart in the
illustrations, for the sake of clearness.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/044.jpg" alt="FIG. 41.
LINEN DARNING. DRAWING IN THE
WOOF THREADS." title="" />
<a name="fig_41" id="fig_41"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 41.
Linen darning. Drawing in the
woof threads.</span>
</div>
<p>When the material to be darned does not admit of a fleecy
thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C, one that as nearly
as possible matches the material, should be chosen from
the D.M.C cottons.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p>
<p><b>Diagonal linen darning</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_42">42</a>).—Darns are sometimes
begun from the corner, so as to form a diagonal web, but they
are then much more visible than when they are worked
straight to a thread, and therefore not advisable.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/045.jpg" alt="FIG. 42.
DIAGONAL LINEN DARNING." title="" />
<a name="fig_42" id="fig_42"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 42.
Diagonal linen darning.</span>
</div>
<p><a name="satin_darning" id="satin_darning"></a>(2) <b>Satin or twill darning</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_43">43</a>).—By twill darning,
the damaged web of any twilled or diagonal material can be
restored. It would be impossible to enumerate all the varieties
of twilled stuffs, but the illustrations and accompanying
directions will enable the worker to imitate them all.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/046.jpg" alt="FIG. 43.
SATIN OR TWILL DARNING." title="" />
<a name="fig_43" id="fig_43"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 43.
Satin or twill darning.</span>
</div>
<p>Begin, as in ordinary darning by running in the warp
threads, then take up one thread, and miss three. In every
succeeding row, advance one thread in the same direction. Or,
miss one thread of the stuff and take up two, and as before,
<a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>advance, one thread in the same direction, every succeeding
row. The order in which threads
should be missed and taken up,
must depend on the web which
the darn is intended to imitate.</p>
<p>When the original is a coloured
stuff, it is advisable to make a
specimen darn first, on a larger
scale, so that you may be more
sure of obtaining a correct copy of
the original web.</p>
<p><a name="damask_darning" id="damask_darning"></a>(3) <b>Damask darning</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_44">44</a>,
<a href="#fig_45">45</a>, <a href="#fig_46">46</a>, <a href="#fig_47">47</a>, <a href="#fig_48">48</a>, <a href="#fig_49">49</a>).—A damask darn
<a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>is begun in the same way as all other darns are; the pattern is
formed by the cross-runnings and will vary with the number
of warp threads taken up and missed, in each successive
running. The woven design which you are to copy with your
needle must therefore be carefully examined first.</p>
<p>Figs. <a href="#fig_44">44</a> and <a href="#fig_45">45</a> show the wrong and right sides of a
damask darn, in process of being made.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<a name="fig_44" id="fig_44"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/047.jpg" alt="FIG. 44.
DAMASK DARNING. WRONG SIDE." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 44.
Damask darning. Wrong side.</span>
</div>
<a name="fig_45" id="fig_45"></a>
<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/048.jpg" alt="FIG. 45.
DAMASK DARNING. RIGHT SIDE." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 45.
Damask darning. Right side.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_46">46</a> represents a completed one. In the case of coloured
webs, a light shade of cotton is generally used for the warp,
one that matches the stuff, for the shot or woof.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<a name="fig_46" id="fig_46"></a>
<img src="images/049.jpg" alt="FIG. 46.
DAMASK DARNING. COVERED
GROUND." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 46.
Damask darning. Covered
ground.</span>
</div>
<p>Figs. <a href="#fig_47">47</a> and <a href="#fig_48">48</a>, illustrate two specimens of darning,
formerly done in the convents, from which it will be seen,
that the warp and the woof were first drawn in with rather fine
thread and the pattern then worked into this foundation with
coarser, or else, coloured thread. When this kind of darn is
in two colours, take, for the
darker shade, Coton à broder
D.M.C, or Coton à repriser D.M.C,
which are both of them to be had
in all the bright and faded shades,
to match alike both old and new
linen.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<a name="fig_47" id="fig_47"></a><a name="fig_48" id="fig_48"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 117px;">
<img src="images/050.jpg" alt="FIG. 47.
DAMASK DARNING ON
NEEDLE-MADE GROUND." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 47.
Damask darning on
needle-made ground.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 112px;">
<img src="images/051.jpg" alt="FIG. 48.
DAMASK DARNING ON
NEEDLE-MADE GROUND." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 48.
Damask darning on
needle-made ground.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_49">49</a>, which is executed in
two colours, and is likewise copied
from an old work on darning,
shows you the manner in which a
dice-pattern is to be reproduced.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/052.jpg" alt="FIG. 49. DAMASK DARNING WITH
COLOURED THREAD." title="" />
<a name="fig_49" id="fig_49"></a>
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 49. Damask darning with coloured thread.</span>
</div>
<p>(4) <b>Darning, lost in the ground</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_50">50</a>).—A kind of darn used
for repairing rents, the edges of
which fit exactly into one another.
Neither the torn threads of the
material nor the rough edges
must be cut off; the torn part is to
be tacked upon a piece of oil-cloth, wrong side uppermost,
and the edges, drawn together by a thread, run in backwards,
and forwards, across them. The stitches must be set as closely
together as possible, and regularly inverted, as in every other
<a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>darn. A much finer thread relatively than that of which the
material is composed should, in all cases be used for darning.
In this instance also, for the sake of greater distinctness, the
size of the thread has been magnified in the illustration.
Coton surfin D.M.C, will be found the best for darning both
calico and linen.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/053.jpg" alt="FIG. 50.
DARNING LOST IN THE GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_50" id="fig_50"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 50.
Darning lost in the ground.</span>
</div>
<p><a name="fine_drawing" id="fine_drawing"></a><b>Fine drawing</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_51">51</a>).—The art of making invisible darns
in cloth, though such a useful one, is all but unknown. It is a
tedious process and one which, though easy enough to understand,
requires great care in the execution.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/054.jpg" alt="FIG. 51. FINE DRAWING." title="" />
<a name="fig_51" id="fig_51"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 51. Fine drawing.</span></div>
<p>Use as fine a needle as possible and thread it with hair,
instead of silk, or any other kind of fibre. Red and white
hair is the strongest, and stronger than the ravellings of the
stuff. Of course the hair has first to be carefully cleansed from
grease. Pare the edges of the rent, on the right sides, quite
clean and even, with a razor, so that both rent and stitches
may be lost in the hairy surface of the cloth. Scissors do not
cut so closely, and are liable moreover, to disturb the nap,
and render the darn more visible. When this is done, fit the
edges exactly together, and overcast them. Then thread a
needle with a hair by the root, and slip it in, 2 or 3 m/m.
from the one edge and back again pointed towards you,
through the other, so that, neither needle nor hair, are visible
on either side. The stitches should be set slightly slanting and
must be quite lost in the thickness of the cloth. The needle
must always be put in, exactly at the place where it came
out, and the hair not be too tightly drawn.</p>
<p>When the darn is finished, lay the article on a bare table,
or ironing-board, cover it with a damp cloth, and iron it. The
sharpest eye will fail to detect a rent, when carefully darned
in this manner.</p>
<p><a name="patching" id="patching"></a><b>Patching</b>.—As we have already said, when the defective
part is past darning, it must be cut out, and a new piece of
stuff inserted in its place. If the garment be no longer new,
it should be patched with a slighter material than that of
which it was originally made. The patch should be of the same
shape, and cut the same way of the stuff, as the piece it is to
replace, it should also be, just so much larger, as to allow for
<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>the turnings in, and can either be top-sewn, or else, run and
felled in.</p>
<p><b>Back-stitching and felling in a patch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_52">52</a>).—Tack
in the new piece, so that its
edges over-lap the edges of the
hole. The back-stitching must be
done on the article itself, as this
renders it easier to do the corners
neatly. The hem is turned
down on to the patch. Make
a little snip at the corners with
your scissors to prevent puckering.
The back-stitching should
form a right angle at each
corner.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/055.jpg" alt="FIG. 52.
BACK-STITCHING AND FELLING IN A PATCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_52" id="fig_52"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 52.
Back-stitching and felling in a patch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Top-sewing in a patch</b> (fig.
<a href="#fig_53">53</a>).—To do this, the edges of the
hole and of the patch, must first
be turned in, and either overcast
or hemmed, to prevent their
fraying, after which, sew the two
edges together. The raw edges
may also be turned in with herring-boning
as in fig. <a href="chapter_1.html#fig_39">39</a>, putting
the needle, only through one
layer of stuff.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/056.jpg" alt="FIG. 53.
TOP-SEWING IN A PATCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_53" id="fig_53"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 53.
Top-sewing in a patch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Drawing in a patch</b> (fig.
<a href="#fig_54">54</a>).—Take a square piece of the
original stuff, 5 or 6 c/m. larger
each way, than the hole it is to
fill, draw out threads on all the
four sides, till the piece exactly
matches the hole, and tack it
into its place. Thread a very fine
needle with the two ends of a
thread of silk or Fil d'Alsace
D.M.C No. 700, run it in at the
corner of the stuff, and draw it out, leaving a loop behind.<a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>
Into this loop, slip the first of the threads, which as it were,
form a fringe to the patch, and tighten the loop round it, and
so on with each thread, alternately taking up and leaving
threads in the stuff, as in ordinary darning.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/057.jpg" alt="FIG. 54.
DRAWING IN A PATCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_54" id="fig_54"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 54.
Drawing in a patch.</span>
</div>
<p>To put a patch into a thin material, in this manner, you
must darn in the threads, a good long way, into the material,
in order that the double layer of threads may be less visible.</p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_3.html">Next Chapter.</a></p>
<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents</a></p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label">[A]</span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes
and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div>
</div>
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