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diff --git a/old/20776-h/chapter_2.html b/old/20776-h/chapter_2.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff3fdde --- /dev/null +++ b/old/20776-h/chapter_2.html @@ -0,0 +1,439 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + clear: both; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .caption {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; + position: relative; + bottom: 0.33em; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> +<p><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a></p> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/042.jpg" alt="SPECIMENS OF PATTERN DARNS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SPECIMENS OF PATTERN DARNS.</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2><a name="Mending" id="Mending"></a>Mending.</h2> + + +<p>The mending of wearing-apparel and house-linen, though +often an ungrateful task, is yet a very necessary one, to which +every female hand ought to be carefully trained. How best +to disguise and repair the wear and tear of use or accident +is quite as valuable an art, as that of making new things.</p> + +<p>Under the head of mending, we include the strengthening +and replacing of the worn and broken threads of a fabric, and +fitting in of new stuff in the place of that which is torn or +damaged. The former is called darning, the latter, patching.</p> + +<p><b>Darning.</b>—When only a few of the warp or woof threads +are torn or missing, a darn will repair the mischief, provided +the surrounding parts be sound. When the damage is more +extensive, the piece must be cut out.</p> + +<p>In some cases the warp of the stuff itself can be used for +darning, otherwise thread as much like the stuff as possible +should be chosen.</p> + +<p><b>Materials suitable for mending.</b>—Coton à repriser D.M.C +is used for most kinds of darning. It can be had in 18 different +sizes, from Nos. 8 to 100, white and unbleached, and in +all the colours of the D.M.C colour-card in Nos. 12, 25 and 50.</p> + +<p>It is but very slightly twisted and can be split or used +double, if necessary, according to the material. For all the +coarser articles of house-linen, unbleached cotton is the best, +<a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>and for the finer white fabrics, Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 110, +120 and 150<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>. This cotton, which is not the least twisted, +and is to be had both white and unbleached, can be used, by +subdividing it, for darning the finest cambric.</p> + +<p><b>Varieties of darning.</b>—These are four, (1) Linen darning, +(2) Damask darning, (3) Satin or Twill darning, and (4) Invisible +darning, called also, Fine-drawing.</p> + +<p><a name="linen_darning" id="linen_darning"></a>(1) <b>Linen Darning</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_40">40</a> and <a href="#fig_41">41</a>).—All darns should be +made on the wrong side of the stuff, excepting fig. <a href="#fig_54">54</a>, which it +is sometimes better to make on the right side. The longitudinal +running, to form the warp, must be made first. The +thread must not be drawn tightly in running your stitches +backwards and forwards, and be careful to leave loops at each +turning, to allow for the shrinking of the thread in the +washing, without its pulling the darn together.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/043.jpg" alt="FIG. 40. +LINEN DARNING. DRAWING IN THE +WARP THREADS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_40" id="fig_40"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 40. +Linen darning. Drawing in the +warp threads.</span> +</div> + +<p>Run your needle in, about one c/m. above the damaged +part, take up one or two threads of the stuff and miss the same +number, working straight to a thread; on reaching the hole, +carry your cotton straight across it, take up alternate threads +beyond, and proceed as before. Continue the rows backwards +and forwards, taking up in each row, the threads left in the +<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>preceding one. Turn the work round and do the same for the +woof; alternately taking up and leaving the warp threads, +where the cotton crosses the hole. The threads must lie so +alone both ways, that the darn, when completed, replaces the +original web. The threads are only drawn so far apart in the +illustrations, for the sake of clearness.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/044.jpg" alt="FIG. 41. +LINEN DARNING. DRAWING IN THE +WOOF THREADS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_41" id="fig_41"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 41. +Linen darning. Drawing in the +woof threads.</span> +</div> + +<p>When the material to be darned does not admit of a fleecy +thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C, one that as nearly +as possible matches the material, should be chosen from +the D.M.C cottons.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<p><b>Diagonal linen darning</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_42">42</a>).—Darns are sometimes +begun from the corner, so as to form a diagonal web, but they +are then much more visible than when they are worked +straight to a thread, and therefore not advisable.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/045.jpg" alt="FIG. 42. +DIAGONAL LINEN DARNING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_42" id="fig_42"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 42. +Diagonal linen darning.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="satin_darning" id="satin_darning"></a>(2) <b>Satin or twill darning</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_43">43</a>).—By twill darning, +the damaged web of any twilled or diagonal material can be +restored. It would be impossible to enumerate all the varieties +of twilled stuffs, but the illustrations and accompanying +directions will enable the worker to imitate them all.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/046.jpg" alt="FIG. 43. +SATIN OR TWILL DARNING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_43" id="fig_43"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 43. +Satin or twill darning.</span> +</div> + +<p>Begin, as in ordinary darning by running in the warp +threads, then take up one thread, and miss three. In every +succeeding row, advance one thread in the same direction. Or, +miss one thread of the stuff and take up two, and as before, +<a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>advance, one thread in the same direction, every succeeding +row. The order in which threads +should be missed and taken up, +must depend on the web which +the darn is intended to imitate.</p> + +<p>When the original is a coloured +stuff, it is advisable to make a +specimen darn first, on a larger +scale, so that you may be more +sure of obtaining a correct copy of +the original web.</p> + +<p><a name="damask_darning" id="damask_darning"></a>(3) <b>Damask darning</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_44">44</a>, +<a href="#fig_45">45</a>, <a href="#fig_46">46</a>, <a href="#fig_47">47</a>, <a href="#fig_48">48</a>, <a href="#fig_49">49</a>).—A damask darn +<a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>is begun in the same way as all other darns are; the pattern is +formed by the cross-runnings and will vary with the number +of warp threads taken up and missed, in each successive +running. The woven design which you are to copy with your +needle must therefore be carefully examined first.</p> + +<p>Figs. <a href="#fig_44">44</a> and <a href="#fig_45">45</a> show the wrong and right sides of a +damask darn, in process of being made.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="fig_44" id="fig_44"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/047.jpg" alt="FIG. 44. +DAMASK DARNING. WRONG SIDE." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 44. +Damask darning. Wrong side.</span> +</div> + +<a name="fig_45" id="fig_45"></a> +<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/048.jpg" alt="FIG. 45. +DAMASK DARNING. RIGHT SIDE." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 45. +Damask darning. Right side.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_46">46</a> represents a completed one. In the case of coloured +webs, a light shade of cotton is generally used for the warp, +one that matches the stuff, for the shot or woof.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<a name="fig_46" id="fig_46"></a> +<img src="images/049.jpg" alt="FIG. 46. +DAMASK DARNING. COVERED +GROUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 46. +Damask darning. Covered +ground.</span> +</div> + +<p>Figs. <a href="#fig_47">47</a> and <a href="#fig_48">48</a>, illustrate two specimens of darning, +formerly done in the convents, from which it will be seen, +that the warp and the woof were first drawn in with rather fine +thread and the pattern then worked into this foundation with +coarser, or else, coloured thread. When this kind of darn is +in two colours, take, for the +darker shade, Coton à broder +D.M.C, or Coton à repriser D.M.C, +which are both of them to be had +in all the bright and faded shades, +to match alike both old and new +linen.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="fig_47" id="fig_47"></a><a name="fig_48" id="fig_48"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 117px;"> +<img src="images/050.jpg" alt="FIG. 47. +DAMASK DARNING ON +NEEDLE-MADE GROUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 47. +Damask darning on +needle-made ground.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 112px;"> +<img src="images/051.jpg" alt="FIG. 48. +DAMASK DARNING ON +NEEDLE-MADE GROUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 48. +Damask darning on +needle-made ground.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_49">49</a>, which is executed in +two colours, and is likewise copied +from an old work on darning, +shows you the manner in which a +dice-pattern is to be reproduced.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/052.jpg" alt="FIG. 49. DAMASK DARNING WITH +COLOURED THREAD." title="" /> +<a name="fig_49" id="fig_49"></a> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 49. Damask darning with coloured thread.</span> +</div> + +<p>(4) <b>Darning, lost in the ground</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_50">50</a>).—A kind of darn used +for repairing rents, the edges of +which fit exactly into one another. +Neither the torn threads of the +material nor the rough edges +must be cut off; the torn part is to +be tacked upon a piece of oil-cloth, wrong side uppermost, +and the edges, drawn together by a thread, run in backwards, +and forwards, across them. The stitches must be set as closely +together as possible, and regularly inverted, as in every other +<a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>darn. A much finer thread relatively than that of which the +material is composed should, in all cases be used for darning. +In this instance also, for the sake of greater distinctness, the +size of the thread has been magnified in the illustration. +Coton surfin D.M.C, will be found the best for darning both +calico and linen.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/053.jpg" alt="FIG. 50. +DARNING LOST IN THE GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_50" id="fig_50"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 50. +Darning lost in the ground.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="fine_drawing" id="fine_drawing"></a><b>Fine drawing</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_51">51</a>).—The art of making invisible darns +in cloth, though such a useful one, is all but unknown. It is a +tedious process and one which, though easy enough to understand, +requires great care in the execution.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/054.jpg" alt="FIG. 51. FINE DRAWING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_51" id="fig_51"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 51. Fine drawing.</span></div> + +<p>Use as fine a needle as possible and thread it with hair, +instead of silk, or any other kind of fibre. Red and white +hair is the strongest, and stronger than the ravellings of the +stuff. Of course the hair has first to be carefully cleansed from +grease. Pare the edges of the rent, on the right sides, quite +clean and even, with a razor, so that both rent and stitches +may be lost in the hairy surface of the cloth. Scissors do not +cut so closely, and are liable moreover, to disturb the nap, +and render the darn more visible. When this is done, fit the +edges exactly together, and overcast them. Then thread a +needle with a hair by the root, and slip it in, 2 or 3 m/m. +from the one edge and back again pointed towards you, +through the other, so that, neither needle nor hair, are visible +on either side. The stitches should be set slightly slanting and +must be quite lost in the thickness of the cloth. The needle +must always be put in, exactly at the place where it came +out, and the hair not be too tightly drawn.</p> + +<p>When the darn is finished, lay the article on a bare table, +or ironing-board, cover it with a damp cloth, and iron it. The +sharpest eye will fail to detect a rent, when carefully darned +in this manner.</p> + +<p><a name="patching" id="patching"></a><b>Patching</b>.—As we have already said, when the defective +part is past darning, it must be cut out, and a new piece of +stuff inserted in its place. If the garment be no longer new, +it should be patched with a slighter material than that of +which it was originally made. The patch should be of the same +shape, and cut the same way of the stuff, as the piece it is to +replace, it should also be, just so much larger, as to allow for +<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>the turnings in, and can either be top-sewn, or else, run and +felled in.</p> + +<p><b>Back-stitching and felling in a patch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_52">52</a>).—Tack +in the new piece, so that its +edges over-lap the edges of the +hole. The back-stitching must be +done on the article itself, as this +renders it easier to do the corners +neatly. The hem is turned +down on to the patch. Make +a little snip at the corners with +your scissors to prevent puckering. +The back-stitching should +form a right angle at each +corner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/055.jpg" alt="FIG. 52. +BACK-STITCHING AND FELLING IN A PATCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_52" id="fig_52"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 52. +Back-stitching and felling in a patch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Top-sewing in a patch</b> (fig. +<a href="#fig_53">53</a>).—To do this, the edges of the +hole and of the patch, must first +be turned in, and either overcast +or hemmed, to prevent their +fraying, after which, sew the two +edges together. The raw edges +may also be turned in with herring-boning +as in fig. <a href="chapter_1.html#fig_39">39</a>, putting +the needle, only through one +layer of stuff.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/056.jpg" alt="FIG. 53. +TOP-SEWING IN A PATCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_53" id="fig_53"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 53. +Top-sewing in a patch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Drawing in a patch</b> (fig. +<a href="#fig_54">54</a>).—Take a square piece of the +original stuff, 5 or 6 c/m. larger +each way, than the hole it is to +fill, draw out threads on all the +four sides, till the piece exactly +matches the hole, and tack it +into its place. Thread a very fine +needle with the two ends of a +thread of silk or Fil d'Alsace +D.M.C No. 700, run it in at the +corner of the stuff, and draw it out, leaving a loop behind.<a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a> +Into this loop, slip the first of the threads, which as it were, +form a fringe to the patch, and tighten the loop round it, and +so on with each thread, alternately taking up and leaving +threads in the stuff, as in ordinary darning.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/057.jpg" alt="FIG. 54. +DRAWING IN A PATCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_54" id="fig_54"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 54. +Drawing in a patch.</span> +</div> + +<p>To put a patch into a thin material, in this manner, you +must darn in the threads, a good long way, into the material, +in order that the double layer of threads may be less visible.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_3.html">Next Chapter.</a></p> +<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents</a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label">[A]</span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes +and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div> +</div> +</body> +</html> |