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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont.
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<p><a name="Page_553" id="Page_553"></a></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/898.jpg" alt="ORNAMENT AFTER HOLBEIN" title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Ornament after Holbein.</span>
</div>
<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<h2><a name="Practical_directions" id="Practical_directions"></a>Practical directions.</h2>
<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<p>Hitherto we have been chiefly occupied with descriptions
and explanations of the different kinds of needlework; to render
these complete, it remains for us to give a few practical directions
with regard to the copying, adjustment and transposition
of the patterns, as well as to the different processes, often so
essential to the ultimate success of a piece of needlework. For
this success will soon be found not to depend on the stitches
only but very largely on the proper adaptation of the design to
the space it is intended to fill.</p>
<p>Then, in the case of new lace, it is necessary to know
the amount of dressing it will require to give it the right stiffness
and when this dressing has worn off how to renew it;
whilst in the case of appliqué work more especially, it is indispensable
to know exactly what the ingredients are, of which
the paste should be composed and how to make and lay it on
in the proper manner.</p>
<p><b><a name="Tracing_patterns" id="Tracing_patterns"></a>Tracing patterns against a window pane.</b>—In order
to copy a pattern in this way, the first step is to tack or pin
the piece of stuff or paper on which the copy is to be made
upon the pattern. In the case of a small pattern, the tacking
<a name="Page_554" id="Page_554"></a>or pinning may be dispensed with and the two sheets held
firmly pressed against the window pane with the left hand,
whilst the right hand does the tracing, but even then it is safer
to pin or gum the four corners of the two sheets together, in
case of interruption, as it is difficult to fit them together again
exactly.</p>
<p>The tracing may be done with a pencil, or better still,
with a brush dipped in Indian ink or water-colour paint.</p>
<p>The process of tracing is easy enough, so long as the hand
does not get tired but as this generally comes to pass very soon
it is best, if the pattern be a large and complicated one, to
stick the sheets to the pane with strong gum or suspend them
on a string, fastened across the pane by pins stuck into the
window frame on either side.</p>
<p><b>To take off a pattern by rubbing.</b>—If you want to take
a pattern of a piece of embroidery direct from the work itself,
lay it, the right side up, flat upon a board or table and cover
it with letter or tissue paper.</p>
<p>The paper should be of a good medium thickness, if it be
too thick it will not take a clear impression of the pattern, and
if very thin it is apt to tear.</p>
<p>Fasten the paper down upon the embroidery with drawing-pins
and rub off the pattern with drawing-wax. In default of
the right kind of wax, the bowl or handle of a spoon, or a
large silver coin will serve the purpose equally well, as will
also some powdered graphite or charcoal. The outlines will
not of course, in any case, be very clearly defined upon the paper
and will have to be gone over and carefully supplemented afterwards
with a pencil.</p>
<p>Taking off the pattern with charcoal or graphite is less
injurious to the embroidery than rubbing it off with wax or
metal, as the pressure required in the latter case flattens the
needle-work very considerably. As soon as you have fixed the
lines of the pattern by drawing them over with ink, it is ready
for use.</p>
<p><b>To transfer a pattern direct on to the stuff.</b>—Patterns
cannot be copied by either of the above methods direct on to
the stuff and can only be used when the stuff on which the
<a name="Page_555" id="Page_555"></a>embroidery is to be executed is transparent; in the case of thick
close fabrics the drawing must be made on the stuff itself. The
following is the simplest way of transferring a pattern on to a
transparent stuff; begin by going over all the lines of the drawing
with Indian ink so as to make them quite thick and
distinct, and tacking the paper with large stitches on to the
back of the stuff. Then, mix some very dark powdered indigo
diluted with water, in a glass with a small pinch of sugar and
powdered gum arabic, and using this as ink and a fine pen
very slightly split, trace the pattern that shines through on
the stuff.</p>
<p>The tracing must be very slight, for if the embroidery be
not done till some time afterwards the lines get so firmly fixed
in the stuff that one washing will not obliterate them; the
tracing ink moreover makes the work unpleasantly sticky.</p>
<p><b>To copy with oiled paper</b>.—Another rather expeditious
mode of transferring patterns on to thin and more especially
smooth glossy stuffs, is by means of a special kind of tinted
paper, called autographic paper, which is impregnated with a
coloured oily substance and is to be had at any stationer's
shop. This you place between the pattern and the stuff,
having previously fastened the stuff, perfectly straight by the
line of the thread, to a board, with drawing-pins. When you
have fitted the two papers likewise exactly together, you go over
all the lines of the pattern with a blunt pencil, or with, what
is better still, the point of a bone crochet needle or the edge
of a folder. You must be careful not to press so heavily upon the
pattern paper as to tear it; by the pressure exercised on the two
sheets of paper, the oily substance of the blue paper discharges
itself on to the stuff, so that when it is removed all the lines
you have traced are imprinted upon the stuff.</p>
<p>This blue tracing paper is however only available for the
reproduction of patterns on washing stuffs, as satin and all
other silky textures are discoloured by it.</p>
<p><b>To pounce patterns upon stuffs.</b>—The modes of copying,
hitherto described, cannot be indiscriminately used for all
kinds of stuff; for cloth, velvet and plush, for instance, they
are not available and pouncing is the only way that answers.</p><p><a name="Page_556" id="Page_556"></a></p>
<p>The patterns, after having been transferred to straw or
parchment paper, have to be pricked through. To do this you
lay the paper upon cloth or felt and prick out all the lines of
the drawing, making the holes, which should be clear and
round, all exactly the same distance apart.</p>
<p>The closer and more complicated the pattern is, the finer
and closer the holes should be. Every line of the outline must
be carefully pricked out.</p>
<p>If the paper be sufficiently thin, several pouncings can be
pricked at the same time, and a symmetrical design can be
folded together into four and all pricked at once.</p>
<p>The pricked pattern has next to be tacked upon the material,
the side from which the pricking was done next to the
stuff and the little funnel-shaped holes uppermost. Paper and
stuff must be firmly fastened down and kept in position by
drawing pins, so that neither of them may move during the
process, otherwise you will have double lines on the stuff which
you will find very confusing afterwards.</p>
<p>For the pouncing, use either powdered chalk or charcoal,
according to whether the stuff be dark or light in colour. Dip
the pouncing implement, a thing like a small drum-stick, stuffed
and covered with cloth, into the powder and rub it lightly over
the whole surface of the pricked pattern, so that the powder
penetrates through the pin-holes to the stuff. In default of a
proper pouncing implement take a small stripe of cloth, roll
it up round a stick and wind a string round, and dip this into
the powder.</p>
<p>When the powder has penetrated to the stuff, remove the
paper and if the pattern is to be repeated, lay it on again
further on, taking care to make the lines meet exactly so that
the join may not be seen.</p>
<p>When you have finished the pouncing and taken off the
paper, you proceed to draw or rather paint in the pattern
with water-colour paints: Ackermann's are the best for the
purpose; no others, as far as our experience has proved, adhere
so well to even the roughest fabrics or so little affect the
brilliancy of the embroidery thread. Four paints, blue, black,
<a name="Page_557" id="Page_557"></a>yellow and white are sufficient for all purposes, whatever the
colour of the stuff may be.</p>
<p>On a smooth surface the tracing may be done with a pen
but a small sable-hair brush is preferable under all circumstances.</p>
<p>The rougher and more hairy the surface, the finer the
brush ought to be, in order that the colour may sink well in
between the fibres.</p>
<p>Before beginning to paint in the pattern, gently blow away
all the superfluous powder from the surface. This process may
be objected to as being an old one which has been superseded
by new inventions; a resinous powder for instance, by the use
of which patterns can be fixed, as soon as they have been pounced,
by passing a hot iron over the stuff, a sheet of paper
having first been laid upon it to protect it; or else a mixture
of gum and powder which can be dissolved on the stuff itself
by the steam of spirits-of-wine, and various other processes
needless to mention here, as some are only useful in tracing
patterns on a large scale, whilst others require a variety of
appliances, not as a rule, within the reach of those to whom
needle-work is a simple recreation.</p>
<p><b><a name="The_preparation_of_the_stuffs" id="The_preparation_of_the_stuffs"></a>The preparation of the stuffs and the subdivision of
the patterns</b>.—Long years of experience and practice have
brought us in contact with a good many designers, many of
them artists in their way, so long as it was only a question of
putting their own compositions on paper but who yet found
themselves confronted by real difficulties the moment they were
called upon to transfer them to stuff.</p>
<p>We shall, as far as possible, point out to our readers the
precautions to be taken in tracing patterns and must for that
purpose go back to one of the first operations, namely that
of pricking.</p>
<p>To begin with, the paper on which the pattern is should
always be large enough for there to be a clear margin of from
4 to 5 c/m. all round the pattern, so that the pouncing instrument
may never come in contact with the stuff beneath.</p>
<p>In transferring patterns to stuff, no lines of division should
<a name="Page_558" id="Page_558"></a>ever be made directly upon it either with lead, chalk or charcoal,
as it is hardly ever possible entirely to obliterate them
and they often become very confusing afterwards.</p>
<p>Before beginning the tracing, divide your stuff into four,
then decide what the width of the border outside the pattern
is to be; it is quite an exceptional thing to carry a pattern
right up to the edge. Stuffs that will take a bend, such as all
linen and cotton textures, can be folded in four, like the paper,
the folds ought then to be pinched and pressed down so that
the lines may remain clear and distinct until the tracing be
finished.</p>
<p>After dividing it into four, mark out the diagonal lines;
these are absolutely necessary in order to get the corner
figures rightly placed.</p>
<p>Though most of our readers know how to make these lines
on paper with a pencil and ruler, few, easy as it is, know how
to make them upon stuff. You have only to fold over the
corner of your piece of stuff so that the outside thread of the
warp or cut edge run parallel with the woof edge which
marks the angle of the fold-over.</p>
<p>This double folding over divides the ground into 8 parts.
To arrange for the outside border or margin, is easy enough
if the stuff and the kind of work you are going to do upon
it admit of the drawing out of threads, as then a thread
drawn out each way serves as a guide for tracing the pattern,
straight to the line of the stuff. It is often better however,
not to draw out the threads for an open-work border till the
pattern be traced. If you do not wish or are not able to draw out
threads to mark the pattern and you are working on a stuff of
which the threads can be counted, follow the directions given
on page <a href="./chapter_7.html#Page_128">128</a>, and explained in fig. <a href="./chapter_7.html#fig_252">252</a>.</p>
<p>You cannot mark cloth, silk stuffs or plush by folding them
in the above way, cloth and some kinds of silken textures will
not take a bend and others that will would be spoiled by it.</p>
<p>All such stuffs should be mounted in a frame, before the
pattern be traced and the ground be then divided out in the
following way: take a strong thread, make a knot at one end,
<a name="Page_559" id="Page_559"></a>stick a pin into it and tighten the knot round it; with a pair of
compasses, divide one of the sides into two equal parts, stick
the pin with the knot round it in at the middle and the same
on the opposite side, putting in a second pin by means of
which you stretch the thread; carry other threads across in a
similar way, in the width of the stuff and from corner to corner
and you will have your ground correctly marked out, in such
a manner as to leave no marks when, after pouncing in the
pattern, you remove the threads. Before finishing the pouncing
of a pattern, see that it is the right size for the purpose it is
intended for.</p>
<p>Supposing that you are tracing a border with a corner, you
should measure the length it will occupy and then by a very
light pouncing, you can mark the points from which the pattern
will have to be repeated. It may be that a gap will be left
in the middle, which, if not too large, can be got rid of without
altering the pattern by pushing the whole thing a little further
in and so shortening the distance between the two corners.</p>
<p>Should the gap however be too large for this, you will
have to make a supplementary design to fill up the place. The
same thing would be necessary in the case of your having to
shorten a pattern.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_transpose_and_repeat_patterns" id="To_transpose_and_repeat_patterns"></a>To transpose and repeat patterns by means of looking-glasses</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_885">885</a>).—We have referred to the necessity that
often occurs of adapting patterns to certain given proportions;
this can in most cases be done easily enough without the help
of a draughtsman, especially in the case of cross stitch embroideries,
by means of two unframed looking-glasses (Penelope
mirrors, as they are called) used in the following manner.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/899.jpg" alt="FIG. 885. TO TRANSPOSE AND REPEAT A STRAIGHT PATTERN BY MEANS
OF LOOKING GLASSES." title="" />
<a name="fig_885" id="fig_885"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 885. To transpose and repeat a straight pattern by means
of looking glasses.</span>
</div>
<p>If you want to utilize a piece only of a straight border, or
after repeating it several times, to form a corner with it, you
place the mirror in the first instance across it at right angles,
at the place from which the pattern is to be repeated, and
then exactly diagonally inwards.</p>
<p>To make a square out of a straight pattern, you take two
mirrors and so place them that they touch at the point where
the diagonal lines meet, as represented in fig. <a href="#fig_885">885</a>, and you
have your square at once.</p><p><a name="Page_560" id="Page_560"></a></p>
<p>This is all easy enough, but before beginning any large
piece of work it is necessary to consider carefully which parts
of the drawing will best fill the centre and which are best suited
to form the corners, as it is not every part of a straight pattern
that is adapted for repetition.</p>
<p>A few preliminary trials with the help of the mirrors will
better show the importance of these explanations than anything
further we can say on the subject.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_alter_the_proportions_of_a_pattern" id="To_alter_the_proportions_of_a_pattern"></a>To alter the proportions of a pattern by dividing the
ground into squares</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_886">886</a> and <a href="#fig_887">887</a>).—Cases will occur
where it will be found necessary to subject the pattern to
greater modifications still than those we have hitherto been
dealing with.</p>
<p>You want, for example, to embroider a rather large running
ground pattern on a piece of stuff, that is relatively too small
for the subject; or a small and rather minute pattern on a large
surface on which it is likely to look, either too insignificant, or
too crowded and confused and the chances are, if you do not
know how to draw, you will either think it necessary to get
a draughtsman to help you or you will give up the piece of
<a name="Page_561" id="Page_561"></a>work altogether, deterred by the difficulties that confront you.
You need not do either if you will follow the directions here
given.</p>
<p>Take a sheet of large-sized quadrille paper which if necessary
you can prepare for yourself; trace your pattern upon it,
or rule the squares direct upon the drawing, as shown in
fig. <a href="#fig_886">886</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/900.jpg" alt="FIG. 886. DIVIDING THE GROUND INTO SQUARES BEFORE COPYING." title="" />
<a name="fig_886" id="fig_886"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 886. Dividing the ground into squares before copying.</span>
</div>
<p>On a second sheet of vegetable paper, rule squares, a fourth,
a third or half as small again as those on the first sheet. Thus,
if the sides of the first squares be 15 m/m. long and you want
to reduce your pattern by one fifth, the sides of your new
squares should measure only 12 m/m.</p>
<p>If, on the contrary, you want to enlarge the pattern by one
fifth, make the sides of your squares 18 m/m. long.</p>
<p>Then you follow, square by square, the lines of the drawing,
<a name="Page_562" id="Page_562"></a>extending or contracting them, according to whether the pattern
is to be enlarged or diminished.</p>
<p>To copy a pattern directly from a piece of embroidery and
enlarge or diminish it at the same time, proceed as follows:
fix the embroidery on a board, stretching it equally in every
direction; then measure the length of the drawing, divide the
centimetres by the number of units corresponding to whatever
the proportions of your copy are to be, and if there be any
fractions of centimetres over, subdivide them into millimetres,
if necessary, into half millimetres and make your division by
whatever measure you have adopted; take a pair of compasses
with dry points, open them sufficiently for the opening to
correspond to the number and the distance obtained by the
division; plant a pin with a thread fastened to it, at the point
indicated by the point of the compasses and repeat the last
operation all along one side of the embroidery and, if possible
a little beyond it, so that it may not be defaced by the
marks of the pins. All you now have to do is to pull the
threads in perfectly straight lines to the opposite side and
carry other threads across them in a similar manner so that the
whole surface be divided into squares.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/901.jpg" alt="FIG. 887. PATTERN REDUCED BY MARKING OUT THE GROUND IN SMALL SQUARES." title="" />
<a name="fig_887" id="fig_887"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 887. Pattern reduced by marking out the ground in small squares.</span>
</div>
<p>It is needless to say that if you have to trace a pattern
from a mounted piece of work you cannot stretch it on a
<a name="Page_563" id="Page_563"></a>board; with a little invention however some way can always
be found of planting the pins so as not to injure the work.</p>
<p><b>To alter the width of a pattern retaining the original
height</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_888">888</a>, <a href="#fig_889">889</a>, <a href="#fig_890">890</a>).—Sometimes it is necessary to
lengthen out a pattern without however altering its height.
In this case you modify the shape of the square and make
long or narrow squares, according to the general shape of the
<a name="Page_564" id="Page_564"></a>design you wish to reproduce. Fig. <a href="#fig_888">888</a> represents a pattern
in Soutache D.M.C, marked out in squares; in fig. <a href="#fig_889">889</a> the
squares are lengthened out a third beyond their original size
and the pattern is expanded; in fig. <a href="#fig_890">890</a>, the squares are
compressed to a third less than their original size.</p>
<p>This method of subdividing patterns greatly facilitates the
alterations they have so often to undergo and we are sure
that there are few amongst those who have any real aptitude
for needlework, who cannot draw enough to be able to copy
the contents of a square.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/902.jpg" alt="FIG. 888. PATTERN IN SOUTACHE. Original size." title="" />
<a name="fig_888" id="fig_888"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 888. Pattern in soutache. Original size.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/903.jpg" alt="FIG. 889. PATTERN IN FIG. 888 DRAWN OUT IN THE WIDTH." title="" />
<a name="fig_889" id="fig_889"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 889. Pattern in fig. <a href="#fig_888">888</a> drawn out in the width.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/904.jpg" alt="FIG. 890. PATTERN IN FIG. 888 COMPRESSED IN THE WIDTH." title="" />
<a name="fig_890" id="fig_890"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 890. Pattern in fig. <a href="#fig_888">888</a> compressed in the width.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="To_prepare_the_paste" id="To_prepare_the_paste"></a>To prepare the paste for appliqué work</b>.—It may seem
strange to devote a separate paragraph to such an apparently
simple operation; but in appliqué work it is a most important
one, as not only the stuff on which the work is done but
all the expensive accessories are liable to be spoilt by paste
that has been badly prepared.</p>
<p>Put some wheaten (not rice) starch into a vessel with a
rounded bottom, pour on just enough water to dissolve the
starch and stir it with a wooden spoon till it becomes perfectly
smooth.</p>
<p>In the meantime put about ¼ of a pint of clean water on
the fire to boil and when it boils add to it a little powdered
pitch or carpenter's glue, in quantity about the size of a pea
and pour in the starch, stirring it the whole time. When the
mixture has boiled up several times take it off the fire and go
on stirring it till it gets cold, otherwise lumps will form in it,
which as we specially pointed out in the preceding chapter,
must never be allowed to get in between the stuff and the paper.</p>
<p>This kind of paste makes no spots and does not injure even
the most delicate colours as it contains no acid. In winter it
will keep for several days, but in hot weather it very soon
begins to ferment and should then on no account be used.</p>
<p>Gum arabic ought never to be used for appliqué work, as
it becomes so hard that it is impossible to get the needle
through, whilst the saccharine it contains almost always causes
ugly spots to appear in the stuff when it dries.</p><p><a name="Page_565" id="Page_565"></a></p>
<p>When the work is finished it is a good plan to spread a very
thin layer of paste over the entire back of it with a fine brush
made of hog's bristles, and not to take it out of the frame
until it is perfectly dry.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_stiffen_new_needlework" id="To_stiffen_new_needlework"></a>To stiffen new needlework.</b>—In the chapter on Irish
lace, page <a href="./chapter_13.html#Page_441">441</a>, we said that new needlework of that kind
had to be ironed; this should be done in the following manner:
when the lace has been taken off its foundation, lay it, face
downwards, on a piece of fine white flannel; then dip a piece
of very stiff new organdie muslin into water, take it out again
almost immediately and wring it slightly, so that no drops
may fall from it, and then dab the wrong side of the lace
all over with this pad of damp muslin and iron it with a hot
iron which should be moved slowly forwards so that the moisture
which the organdie has imparted to the lace may evaporate
slowly. Not until you are quite sure that the lace is dry
should it be taken off the board.</p>
<p>There is no better way than this of giving new lace that
almost imperceptible degree of stiffness by which alone it is often
to be distinguished from old. Water only does not stiffen
the thread sufficiently and it is difficult with starch to hit upon
exactly the right consistency, whereas the organdie muslin
supplies just the needful quantity.</p>
<p>Embroidered network can be stiffened in the same manner
and should be damped in the frame on the wrong side and not
taken off until it is quite dry.</p>
<p>We even recommend embroidery on linen being treated in
the same way but when the linen is very creased, cover it with
a damp cloth and iron upon that first, then take the cloth
away and iron the embroidery itself so as to dry it completely.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_wash_ordinary_lace" id="To_wash_ordinary_lace"></a>To wash ordinary lace.</b>—Wind it round a bottle the
same width top and bottom and cover it entirely with muslin,
fastened to the lace by a few stitches. Fill the bottle half full
of sand, so that it may not get knocked about too violently
when the water boils.</p>
<p>Immerse the bottle in a saucepan of cold water with a piece
<a name="Page_566" id="Page_566"></a>of soap the size of a nut in it, and if the lace be very dirty, a small
pinch of salt, and let it boil for about an hour pouring off the
water as it gets dirty and adding clean.</p>
<p>When all the dirt has been boiled out of the lace, which
you will know to be the case when the water remains perfectly
clear, rinse out the soap before you take the lace off the bottle,
by plunging it into cold water.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_wash_real_lace" id="To_wash_real_lace"></a>To wash real lace.</b>—The process is the same as the above,
but as real lace is so seldom washed and is generally very
yellow and fragile, particularly if it has been roughly used, it
is rather difficult to clean.</p>
<p>If stained or greasy, it should be left to soak for some
hours or even days, in good olive oil. This restores to the
thread that softness and smoothness which use and bad washing
had impaired. After the oil bath it should be washed on
a bottle in the manner already described.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_stiffen_lace" id="To_stiffen_lace"></a>To stiffen lace.</b>—Dip the lace when perfectly dry in thin
starch prepared as follows.</p>
<p>Take as much fine wheaten starch, as you think you
will require, divide it into two portions and dissolve both in
cold water. Boil the one portion and when it has so far cooled
as to have ceased to steam, stir the cold starch into it and
dilute the whole with cold water to the consistency of thick
cream. If the lace is to be slightly coloured, add a few drops
of black coffee, or dilute the starch with weak tea or guimauve
water; the coffee will give it a dark cream colour, either of
the latter a pale greenish hue.</p>
<p>Dip the lace in the mixture and squeeze it out gently without
wringing it to get rid of all the superfluous liquid, then
lay it flat on the left hand and beat it for a few minutes with
the right to work the starch well in; repeat the whole process
twice, then roll the lace in fine linen and leave it there till you
are ready to iron or pin it out, as the case may be.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_iron_lace" id="To_iron_lace"></a>To iron lace.</b>—After the lace has lain for an hour or two
in the cloth, iron it if it be machine-made and if it be Irish
Guipure or real point lace of any sort, pin it out.</p><p><a name="Page_567" id="Page_567"></a></p>
<p>Before you begin to iron, hold the lace tight in your left
hand by the footing and with the right hand pull out all the
picots, along the edge of the lace, to an equal length, then lay
it out flat upon a board covered with white flannel and iron
it with a moderately hot iron, passing the iron backwards and
forwards over it until it be quite dry.</p>
<p>If creases should come in the ironing where they ought not
to be, dab them over lightly with a sponge moistened with
water and a few drops of starch and pass the iron over them
again.</p>
<p>After ironing the whole length of lace, pull it out crossways
from left to right, and from right to left and iron it all over
once more. This does away with the artificial stiffness and
gives it the agreable softness and pliancy of new lace.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_pin_out_lace" id="To_pin_out_lace"></a>To pin out lace.</b>—In order to pin out lace in a thoroughly
satisfactory manner, you should provide yourself with a wooden
drum, about 30 c/m. high and from 50 to 60 c/m. in diameter,
large enough to rest upon the knees.</p>
<p>The outside circumference of the wood should be padded
and covered with grey or white ticking.</p>
<p>The pins must be exactly the size of the picots they are
to pin down; you will require extremely fine ones for Valenciennes
and coarser for other kinds of lace: steel pins are of no
use whatever, because of their liability to rust. Cover the cylinder
with blue paper (less trying for the eyes than any other) and
take only just as much lace out of the damp cloth as you are
likely to be able to pin out before it gets dry, keeping the remainder
covered up.</p>
<p>Lay the lace upon the drum and pin the footing down first
in a straight line, sticking the pins in pretty closely and at
regular distances apart; then pin down each picot separately,
taking care not to open them if they have kept their original
shape and to shut them up by twisting them if they have got
untwisted.</p>
<p>If you find the pinning out troublesome and cannot get it all
done before the lace dries, damp the picots with a sponge as
you proceed.</p><p><a name="Page_568" id="Page_568"></a></p>
<p>Lace should never be pinned out when it is dry as the
threads of the picots are then very apt to break and torn picots
destroy the value of even the choicest lace.</p>
<p>Raised lace has to be stamped out from the wrong side
with a lace awl or kind of pricker of bone made for the purpose.
Some professional lace-cleaners use this implement even for
Valenciennes lace but we cannot recommend it, seeing that it
is a lace that is by nature perfectly flat.</p>
<p>Let the length of lace you have pinned out remain on the
drum till it be quite dry; if you have several yards to pin out,
wind it round and round the cylinder. Cover up the lace as you
proceed and put each length away as soon as it is ready in
a blue paper bag, so as to keep the whole perfectly clean.</p>
<p>In conclusion we may remark that the cleaning of lace
should only be undertaken when you are fairly sure of not
being interrupted, as more especially the pinning requires to
be finished off as quickly as possible.</p>
<p><b><a name="To_wash_coloured_cottons" id="To_wash_coloured_cottons"></a>To wash coloured cottons and work done with the
same</b>.—In order to test the fastness of the dyes, untie the
skeins and pour boiling water upon them, leave them to soak
for about a quarter of an hour, soap and rub them lightly
with the hand from end to end and rinse them out thoroughly
in as many changes of cold water as may be found necessary,
until the water remain perfectly colourless.</p>
<p>Squeeze out all the water you can and let them dry quickly
without exposing them to the sun.</p>
<p>Coloured cottons are often washed in vinegar, because it is
supposed to affect the colour less than water does. We
have come to the conclusion after several trials that this is a
delusion, for the good dyes keep their colour without the aid
of vinegar and the bad ones wash out in spite of it.</p>
<p>The fast colours lose none of their beauty in the process
nor does it affect the quality of the cotton; any excess of colouring
matter which the fibres of the cotton may have absorbed
in the process of dyeing is got rid of by this means.</p>
<p>If a piece of work has been done with unwashed cottons
and the colours run in the first washing, you have only to rinse
<a name="Page_569" id="Page_569"></a>it out in several changes of tepid water to restore it to its
original freshness and if you want to give it a yellowish tinge,
it should be dipped it in weak tea or coffee.</p>
<p><b><a name="Materials" id="Materials"></a>Materials.</b>—It was stated in the preface that our readers
would find the choice of colours and material rendered comparatively
easy to them by the notes affixed to the illustrations,
but these notes, in spite of all the care bestowed upon them
must still have remained very incomplete had it not been for the
following tables which we were fortunately enabled to append
to our work and which will help every one to choose their own
materials without having them actually before them. The
strokes that are affixed to each number indicate the exact size
of the thread, so that to find out the number you want to buy
you have but to lay your pattern thread, stretching it slightly,
on the strokes, in succession, till you come to the one that
matches it in size.</p>
<p>With regard to the colours, the names and shades of which
have been classed in the second table with the greatest care, and
of which our workers have no less than 460 to choose from <a name="FNanchor_3_158" id="FNanchor_3_158"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_158" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>,
all those referred to in connection with our illustrations are
quite fast dyes <a name="FNanchor_4_159" id="FNanchor_4_159"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_159" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>, save in a few instances in which we
were forced to make an exception in favour of a doubtful colour
to secure a harmonious effect.</p>
<p>A complete table of colours must of necessity include certain
more or less staring shades, which though they may not
be to every one's taste cannot on that account be left out.</p>
<p>We conclude our work with the well-meant and by no
means useless recommendation to our readers, never to begin
a piece of work of any considerable size without first making
sure that the colours they intend to use are fast and providing
themselves with a larger supply of materials than even on a close
calculation they think they are likely to require, lest
<a name="Page_570" id="Page_570"></a><a name="Page_571" id="Page_571"></a><a name="Page_572" id="Page_572"></a><a name="Page_573" id="Page_573"></a>they should find themselves under the disagreable necessity of
having either to leave their work unfinished or finish it with
materials that do not match. There is generally a slight difference
in tone between cottons that have been bought at different times,
and there is also a reasonable likelihood, considering their
great variety, of some mistake being made in the number by
either buyer or seller in ordering a fresh supply.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_905.jpg"><img src="images/905.jpg" style = "width: 600px; height: 462px;" alt="All of the above articles, excepting those marked with an asterisk,
are made in all numbers in écru, white, black and the 450 shades contained in the D.M.C colour card.--For the names of the colours, see next page." title="" /></a>
<span class="caption">All of the above articles, excepting those marked with an asterisk,
are made in all numbers in écru, white, black and the 450 shades contained in the D.M.C colour card.--For the names of the colours, see next page.</span>
</div>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align='center' colspan='6' class="bl bt br"> Alphabetical list of the names and the numbers of the 450 shades
D.M.C Alsace Thread, Sewing and Embroidery Cottons,
contained in the D.M.C colour-card, in any of which shades the
knitting Cotton, Soutaches and Braids etc. are to be had.</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl bt bb"><b>Couleurs</b><br />Colours</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Très-foncé</b><br />Very dark</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Foncé</b><br />Dark</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Moyen</b><br />Medium</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Clair</b><br />Light</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Très-clair</b><br />Very light</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu d'Azur</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3325</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Canard</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3395</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3306</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3307</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3308</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3309</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu cendré</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 448</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu de Ciel</td><td align='center' class="br"> 515</td><td align='center' class="br"> 516</td><td align='center' class="br"> 517</td><td align='center' class="br"> 518</td><td align='center' class="br"> 519</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Fayence</td><td align='center' class="br"> 481</td><td align='center' class="br"> 482</td><td align='center' class="br"> 483</td><td align='center' class="br"> 484</td><td align='center' class="br"> 485</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu de France</td><td align='center' class="br"> 337</td><td align='center' class="br"> 338</td><td align='center' class="br"> 339</td><td align='center' class="br"> 340</td><td align='center' class="br"> 341</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Gentiane</td><td align='center' class="br"> 476</td><td align='center' class="br"> 477</td><td align='center' class="br"> 478</td><td align='center' class="br"> 479</td><td align='center' class="br"> 480</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Gris</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3300</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3301</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3302</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3303</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3304</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Indigo</td><td align='center' class="br"> 336</td><td align='center' class="br"> 311</td><td align='center' class="br"> 312</td><td align='center' class="br"> 322</td><td align='center' class="br"> 334</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Lapis</td><td align='center' class="br"> 342</td><td align='center' class="br"> 333</td><td align='center' class="br"> 343</td><td align='center' class="br"> 344</td><td align='center' class="br"> 345</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Marin</td><td align='center' class="br"> 505</td><td align='center' class="br"> 506</td><td align='center' class="br"> 507</td><td align='center' class="br"> 508</td><td align='center' class="br"> 509</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Outremer</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 682</td><td align='center' class="br"> 683</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu pâle</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 668</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Prunelle</td><td align='center' class="br"> 486</td><td align='center' class="br"> 487</td><td align='center' class="br"> 488</td><td align='center' class="br"> 489</td><td align='center' class="br"> 490</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu tendre</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 709</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu vert</td><td align='center' class="br"> 525</td><td align='center' class="br"> 526</td><td align='center' class="br"> 527</td><td align='center' class="br"> 528</td><td align='center' class="br"> 529</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu violacé</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 674</td><td align='center' class="br"> 675</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bronze doré</td><td align='center' class="br"> 585</td><td align='center' class="br"> 586</td><td align='center' class="br"> 587</td><td align='center' class="br"> 588</td><td align='center' class="br"> 589</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Acajou</td><td align='center' class="br"> 300</td><td align='center' class="br"> 400</td><td align='center' class="br"> 301</td><td align='center' class="br"> 401</td><td align='center' class="br"> 402</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Cachou</td><td align='center' class="br"> 433</td><td align='center' class="br"> 434</td><td align='center' class="br"> 435</td><td align='center' class="br"> 436</td><td align='center' class="br"> 437</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Cannelle</td><td align='center' class="br"> 660</td><td align='center' class="br"> 661</td><td align='center' class="br"> 662</td><td align='center' class="br"> 663</td><td align='center' class="br"> 664</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Caroubier</td><td align='center' class="br"> 354</td><td align='center' class="br"> 355</td><td align='center' class="br"> 303</td><td align='center' class="br"> 356</td><td align='center' class="br"> 357</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Chamois</td><td align='center' class="br"> 416</td><td align='center' class="br"> 417</td><td align='center' class="br"> 324</td><td align='center' class="br"> 418</td><td align='center' class="br"> 419</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Cuir</td><td align='center' class="br"> 430</td><td align='center' class="br"> 431</td><td align='center' class="br"> 302</td><td align='center' class="br"> 432</td><td align='center' class="br"> 325</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Feuille-morte</td><td align='center' class="br"> 615</td><td align='center' class="br"> 616</td><td align='center' class="br"> 617</td><td align='center' class="br"> 618</td><td align='center' class="br"> 619</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Havane</td><td align='center' class="br"> 454</td><td align='center' class="br"> 455</td><td align='center' class="br"> 456</td><td align='center' class="br"> 457</td><td align='center' class="br"> 458</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Loutre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 438</td><td align='center' class="br"> 439</td><td align='center' class="br"> 440</td><td align='center' class="br"> 441</td><td align='center' class="br"> 442</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Marron</td><td align='center' class="br"> 403</td><td align='center' class="br"> 404</td><td align='center' class="br"> 405</td><td align='center' class="br"> 406</td><td align='center' class="br"> 407</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Myrthe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 463</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Puce</td><td align='center' class="br"> 459</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Rouille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3310</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3311</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3312</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3313</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3314</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Acier</td><td align='center' class="br"> 650</td><td align='center' class="br"> 651</td><td align='center' class="br"> 652</td><td align='center' class="br"> 653</td><td align='center' class="br"> 654</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Amadou</td><td align='center' class="br"> 329</td><td align='center' class="br"> 383</td><td align='center' class="br"> 384</td><td align='center' class="br"> 385</td><td align='center' class="br"> 386</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris d'Argent</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 719</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Bleu</td><td align='center' class="br"> 590</td><td align='center' class="br"> 591</td><td align='center' class="br"> 592</td><td align='center' class="br"> 593</td><td align='center' class="br"> 594</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Bois</td><td align='center' class="br"> 610</td><td align='center' class="br"> 611</td><td align='center' class="br"> 612</td><td align='center' class="br"> 613</td><td align='center' class="br"> 614</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Brun</td><td align='center' class="br"> 408</td><td align='center' class="br"> 409</td><td align='center' class="br"> 410</td><td align='center' class="br"> 411</td><td align='center' class="br"> 412</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Castor</td><td align='center' class="br"> 645</td><td align='center' class="br"> 646</td><td align='center' class="br"> 647</td><td align='center' class="br"> 648</td><td align='center' class="br"> 649</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Cendre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 413</td><td align='center' class="br"> 317</td><td align='center' class="br"> 414</td><td align='center' class="br"> 318</td><td align='center' class="br"> 415</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Coutil</td><td align='center' class="br"> 387</td><td align='center' class="br"> 388</td><td align='center' class="br"> 323</td><td align='center' class="br"> 389</td><td align='center' class="br"> 390</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Deuil</td><td align='center' class="br"> 655</td><td align='center' class="br"> 656</td><td align='center' class="br"> 657</td><td align='center' class="br"> 658</td><td align='center' class="br"> 659</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Écru</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 704</td><td align='center' class="br"> 705</td><td align='center' class="br"> 706</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Etoupe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 707</td><td align='center' class="br"> 708</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris de Fer</td><td align='center' class="br"> 600</td><td align='center' class="br"> 601</td><td align='center' class="br"> 602</td><td align='center' class="br"> 603</td><td align='center' class="br"> 604</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Feutre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 635</td><td align='center' class="br"> 636</td><td align='center' class="br"> 637</td><td align='center' class="br"> 638</td><td align='center' class="br"> 639</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Ficelle</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 460</td><td align='center' class="br"> 461</td><td align='center' class="br"> 462</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Foin</td><td align='center' class="br"> 520</td><td align='center' class="br"> 521</td><td align='center' class="br"> 522</td><td align='center' class="br"> 523</td><td align='center' class="br"> 524</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Fumée</td><td align='center' class="br"> 640</td><td align='center' class="br"> 641</td><td align='center' class="br"> 642</td><td align='center' class="br"> 643</td><td align='center' class="br"> 644</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Lin</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 716</td><td align='center' class="br"> 717</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Mastic</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 718</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris neutre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 620</td><td align='center' class="br"> 621</td><td align='center' class="br"> 622</td><td align='center' class="br"> 623</td><td align='center' class="br"> 624</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Noisette</td><td align='center' class="br"> 420</td><td align='center' class="br"> 421</td><td align='center' class="br"> 422</td><td align='center' class="br"> 423</td><td align='center' class="br"> 424</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Perle</td><td align='center' class="br"> 625</td><td align='center' class="br"> 626</td><td align='center' class="br"> 627</td><td align='center' class="br"> 628</td><td align='center' class="br"> 629</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris de Plomb</td><td align='center' class="br"> 378</td><td align='center' class="br"> 379</td><td align='center' class="br"> 380</td><td align='center' class="br"> 381</td><td align='center' class="br"> 382</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Poussière</td><td align='center' class="br"> 630</td><td align='center' class="br"> 631</td><td align='center' class="br"> 632</td><td align='center' class="br"> 633</td><td align='center' class="br"> 634</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Souris</td><td align='center' class="br"> 425</td><td align='center' class="br"> 426</td><td align='center' class="br"> 427</td><td align='center' class="br"> 428</td><td align='center' class="br"> 429</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Tilleul</td><td align='center' class="br"> 391</td><td align='center' class="br"> 392</td><td align='center' class="br"> 393</td><td align='center' class="br"> 330</td><td align='center' class="br"> 331</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris verdâtre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 595</td><td align='center' class="br"> 596</td><td align='center' class="br"> 597</td><td align='center' class="br"> 598</td><td align='center' class="br"> 599</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Citron</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 307</td><td align='center' class="br"> 445</td><td align='center' class="br"> 446</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Crême</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 711</td><td align='center' class="br"> 712</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Maïs</td><td align='center' class="br"> 575</td><td align='center' class="br"> 576</td><td align='center' class="br"> 577</td><td align='center' class="br"> 678</td><td align='center' class="br"> 579</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune d'Ocre</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 676</td><td align='center' class="br"> 677</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Orange</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 443</td><td align='center' class="br"> 444</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Rouille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 363</td><td align='center' class="br"> 364</td><td align='center' class="br"> 308</td><td align='center' class="br"> 365</td><td align='center' class="br"> 366</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune d'Or</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 667</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-vieil-Or</td><td align='center' class="br"> 678</td><td align='center' class="br"> 679</td><td align='center' class="br"> 680</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Lilas gris</td><td align='center' class="br"> 313</td><td align='center' class="br"> 398</td><td align='center' class="br"> 314</td><td align='center' class="br"> 328</td><td align='center' class="br"> 399</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Noir grand-teint</td><td align='center' class="br"> 310</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Noir-Jais</td><td align='center' class="br"> 681</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Noir vert</td><td align='center' class="br"> 473</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rose-Eglantine</td><td align='center' class="br"> 570</td><td align='center' class="br"> 571</td><td align='center' class="br"> 572</td><td align='center' class="br"> 573</td><td align='center' class="br"> 574</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rose tendre</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3326</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rose vif</td><td align='center' class="br"> 565</td><td align='center' class="br"> 566</td><td align='center' class="br"> 567</td><td align='center' class="br"> 568</td><td align='center' class="br"> 569</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Aurore</td><td align='center' class="br"> 360</td><td align='center' class="br"> 306</td><td align='center' class="br"> 361</td><td align='center' class="br"> 332</td><td align='center' class="br"> 362</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Bordeaux</td><td align='center' class="br"> 496</td><td align='center' class="br"> 497</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Cardinal</td><td align='center' class="br"> 346</td><td align='center' class="br"> 347</td><td align='center' class="br"> 304</td><td align='center' class="br"> 305</td><td align='center' class="br"> 348</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Cerise</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3315</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3316</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3317</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3318</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3319</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Corinthe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 447</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Cornouille</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 449</td><td align='center' class="br"> 450</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Ecarlate</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 498</td><td align='center' class="br"> 464</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Framboise</td><td align='center' class="br"> 684</td><td align='center' class="br"> 685</td><td align='center' class="br"> 686</td><td align='center' class="br"> 687</td><td align='center' class="br"> 688</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Géranium</td><td align='center' class="br"> 349</td><td align='center' class="br"> 350</td><td align='center' class="br"> 351</td><td align='center' class="br"> 352</td><td align='center' class="br"> 353</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Grenat</td><td align='center' class="br"> 358</td><td align='center' class="br"> 359</td><td align='center' class="br"> 326</td><td align='center' class="br"> 309</td><td align='center' class="br"> 335</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Groseille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 605</td><td align='center' class="br"> 606</td><td align='center' class="br"> 607</td><td align='center' class="br"> 608</td><td align='center' class="br"> 609</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Maroquin</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3327</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3328</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3329</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Turc</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 321</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Vermillon</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 666</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Bouteille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 491</td><td align='center' class="br"> 492</td><td align='center' class="br"> 493</td><td align='center' class="br"> 494</td><td align='center' class="br"> 495</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Bronze</td><td align='center' class="br"> 669</td><td align='center' class="br"> 670</td><td align='center' class="br"> 671</td><td align='center' class="br"> 672</td><td align='center' class="br"> 673</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Canard</td><td align='center' class="br"> 545</td><td align='center' class="br"> 546</td><td align='center' class="br"> 547</td><td align='center' class="br"> 548</td><td align='center' class="br"> 549</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Corbeau</td><td align='center' class="br"> 665</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert doré</td><td align='center' class="br"> 580</td><td align='center' class="br"> 581</td><td align='center' class="br"> 582</td><td align='center' class="br"> 583</td><td align='center' class="br"> 584</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert d'Eau</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 713</td><td align='center' class="br"> 714</td><td align='center' class="br"> 715</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-de-gris</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 474</td><td align='center' class="br"> 475</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Emeraude</td><td align='center' class="br"> 555</td><td align='center' class="br"> 556</td><td align='center' class="br"> 557</td><td align='center' class="br"> 558</td><td align='center' class="br"> 559</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Fauve</td><td align='center' class="br"> 689</td><td align='center' class="br"> 690</td><td align='center' class="br"> 691</td><td align='center' class="br"> 692</td><td align='center' class="br"> 693</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Lierre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 500</td><td align='center' class="br"> 501</td><td align='center' class="br"> 502</td><td align='center' class="br"> 503</td><td align='center' class="br"> 504</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Madeira</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 710</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Malachite</td><td align='center' class="br"> 560</td><td align='center' class="br"> 561</td><td align='center' class="br"> 562</td><td align='center' class="br"> 563</td><td align='center' class="br"> 564</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert métallique</td><td align='center' class="br"> 465</td><td align='center' class="br"> 466</td><td align='center' class="br"> 467</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Mousse</td><td align='center' class="br"> 468</td><td align='center' class="br"> 469</td><td align='center' class="br"> 470</td><td align='center' class="br"> 471</td><td align='center' class="br"> 472</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Myrthe</td><td align='center' class="br"> 535</td><td align='center' class="br"> 536</td><td align='center' class="br"> 537</td><td align='center' class="br"> 538</td><td align='center' class="br"> 539</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Olive</td><td align='center' class="br"> 510</td><td align='center' class="br"> 511</td><td align='center' class="br"> 512</td><td align='center' class="br"> 513</td><td align='center' class="br"> 514</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Perroquet</td><td align='center' class="br"> 694</td><td align='center' class="br"> 695</td><td align='center' class="br"> 696</td><td align='center' class="br"> 697</td><td align='center' class="br"> 698</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Pistache</td><td align='center' class="br"> 319</td><td align='center' class="br"> 367</td><td align='center' class="br"> 320</td><td align='center' class="br"> 368</td><td align='center' class="br"> 369</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Pré</td><td align='center' class="br"> 699</td><td align='center' class="br"> 700</td><td align='center' class="br"> 701</td><td align='center' class="br"> 702</td><td align='center' class="br"> 703</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert russe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 499</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Améthyste</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3320</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3321</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3322</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3323</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3324</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Evêque</td><td align='center' class="br"> 451</td><td align='center' class="br"> 452</td><td align='center' class="br"> 453</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Lie-de-vin</td><td align='center' class="br"> 370</td><td align='center' class="br"> 371</td><td align='center' class="br"> 372</td><td align='center' class="br"> 373</td><td align='center' class="br"> 374</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Mauve</td><td align='center' class="br"> 375</td><td align='center' class="br"> 315</td><td align='center' class="br"> 376</td><td align='center' class="br"> 316</td><td align='center' class="br"> 377</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-de-Parme</td><td align='center' class="br"> 540</td><td align='center' class="br"> 541</td><td align='center' class="br"> 542</td><td align='center' class="br"> 543</td><td align='center' class="br"> 544</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Pensée</td><td align='center' class="br"> 530</td><td align='center' class="br"> 531</td><td align='center' class="br"> 532</td><td align='center' class="br"> 533</td><td align='center' class="br"> 534</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Prune</td><td align='center' class="br"> 550</td><td align='center' class="br"> 551</td><td align='center' class="br"> 552</td><td align='center' class="br"> 553</td><td align='center' class="br"> 554</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Scabieuse</td><td align='center' class="br"> 394</td><td align='center' class="br"> 327</td><td align='center' class="br"> 395</td><td align='center' class="br"> 396</td><td align='center' class="br"> 397</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left' class="br bl bt bb"><b>Couleurs</b><br />Colours</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Très-foncé</b><br />Very dark</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Foncé</b><br />Dark</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Moyen</b><br />Medium</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Clair</b><br />Light</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Très-clair</b><br />Very light</td></tr>
</table></div>
<p>To avoid mistakes the public is urgently requested to designate the colours by the number, never by name.</p>
<p>The colours whose numbers begin with 3 or 4 are the fastest.</p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<p class='center'>Further information respecting mode of execution, materials and so forth
may be had by applying to the firm of</p>
<p class='center smcap'>TH. de DILLMONT, DORNACH (Alsace).</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_158" id="Footnote_3_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_158"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The D.M.C colour-card consists of 450 shades about half of which are
fast dyes. See the list of names on pp. <a href="#Page_572">572</a> and <a href="#Page_573">573</a>.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_159" id="Footnote_4_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_159"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> By fast (bon-teint) colours are meant those which will bear ordinary
and repeated washing. There are only very few which are really fast, or grand-teint,
that is to say, which will resist the action of chemical agents, amongst
of these, the black, Noir 310, is quite indestructible.</p></div>
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