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diff --git a/old/20776-h/chapter_16.html b/old/20776-h/chapter_16.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..face18f --- /dev/null +++ b/old/20776-h/chapter_16.html @@ -0,0 +1,911 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + clear: both; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + .caption {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; + position: relative; + bottom: 0.33em; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + + +<p><a name="Page_553" id="Page_553"></a></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/898.jpg" alt="ORNAMENT AFTER HOLBEIN" title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Ornament after Holbein.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> +<h2><a name="Practical_directions" id="Practical_directions"></a>Practical directions.</h2> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> + + +<p>Hitherto we have been chiefly occupied with descriptions +and explanations of the different kinds of needlework; to render +these complete, it remains for us to give a few practical directions +with regard to the copying, adjustment and transposition +of the patterns, as well as to the different processes, often so +essential to the ultimate success of a piece of needlework. For +this success will soon be found not to depend on the stitches +only but very largely on the proper adaptation of the design to +the space it is intended to fill.</p> + +<p>Then, in the case of new lace, it is necessary to know +the amount of dressing it will require to give it the right stiffness +and when this dressing has worn off how to renew it; +whilst in the case of appliqué work more especially, it is indispensable +to know exactly what the ingredients are, of which +the paste should be composed and how to make and lay it on +in the proper manner.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Tracing_patterns" id="Tracing_patterns"></a>Tracing patterns against a window pane.</b>—In order +to copy a pattern in this way, the first step is to tack or pin +the piece of stuff or paper on which the copy is to be made +upon the pattern. In the case of a small pattern, the tacking +<a name="Page_554" id="Page_554"></a>or pinning may be dispensed with and the two sheets held +firmly pressed against the window pane with the left hand, +whilst the right hand does the tracing, but even then it is safer +to pin or gum the four corners of the two sheets together, in +case of interruption, as it is difficult to fit them together again +exactly.</p> + +<p>The tracing may be done with a pencil, or better still, +with a brush dipped in Indian ink or water-colour paint.</p> + +<p>The process of tracing is easy enough, so long as the hand +does not get tired but as this generally comes to pass very soon +it is best, if the pattern be a large and complicated one, to +stick the sheets to the pane with strong gum or suspend them +on a string, fastened across the pane by pins stuck into the +window frame on either side.</p> + +<p><b>To take off a pattern by rubbing.</b>—If you want to take +a pattern of a piece of embroidery direct from the work itself, +lay it, the right side up, flat upon a board or table and cover +it with letter or tissue paper.</p> + +<p>The paper should be of a good medium thickness, if it be +too thick it will not take a clear impression of the pattern, and +if very thin it is apt to tear.</p> + +<p>Fasten the paper down upon the embroidery with drawing-pins +and rub off the pattern with drawing-wax. In default of +the right kind of wax, the bowl or handle of a spoon, or a +large silver coin will serve the purpose equally well, as will +also some powdered graphite or charcoal. The outlines will +not of course, in any case, be very clearly defined upon the paper +and will have to be gone over and carefully supplemented afterwards +with a pencil.</p> + +<p>Taking off the pattern with charcoal or graphite is less +injurious to the embroidery than rubbing it off with wax or +metal, as the pressure required in the latter case flattens the +needle-work very considerably. As soon as you have fixed the +lines of the pattern by drawing them over with ink, it is ready +for use.</p> + +<p><b>To transfer a pattern direct on to the stuff.</b>—Patterns +cannot be copied by either of the above methods direct on to +the stuff and can only be used when the stuff on which the +<a name="Page_555" id="Page_555"></a>embroidery is to be executed is transparent; in the case of thick +close fabrics the drawing must be made on the stuff itself. The +following is the simplest way of transferring a pattern on to a +transparent stuff; begin by going over all the lines of the drawing +with Indian ink so as to make them quite thick and +distinct, and tacking the paper with large stitches on to the +back of the stuff. Then, mix some very dark powdered indigo +diluted with water, in a glass with a small pinch of sugar and +powdered gum arabic, and using this as ink and a fine pen +very slightly split, trace the pattern that shines through on +the stuff.</p> + +<p>The tracing must be very slight, for if the embroidery be +not done till some time afterwards the lines get so firmly fixed +in the stuff that one washing will not obliterate them; the +tracing ink moreover makes the work unpleasantly sticky.</p> + +<p><b>To copy with oiled paper</b>.—Another rather expeditious +mode of transferring patterns on to thin and more especially +smooth glossy stuffs, is by means of a special kind of tinted +paper, called autographic paper, which is impregnated with a +coloured oily substance and is to be had at any stationer's +shop. This you place between the pattern and the stuff, +having previously fastened the stuff, perfectly straight by the +line of the thread, to a board, with drawing-pins. When you +have fitted the two papers likewise exactly together, you go over +all the lines of the pattern with a blunt pencil, or with, what +is better still, the point of a bone crochet needle or the edge +of a folder. You must be careful not to press so heavily upon the +pattern paper as to tear it; by the pressure exercised on the two +sheets of paper, the oily substance of the blue paper discharges +itself on to the stuff, so that when it is removed all the lines +you have traced are imprinted upon the stuff.</p> + +<p>This blue tracing paper is however only available for the +reproduction of patterns on washing stuffs, as satin and all +other silky textures are discoloured by it.</p> + +<p><b>To pounce patterns upon stuffs.</b>—The modes of copying, +hitherto described, cannot be indiscriminately used for all +kinds of stuff; for cloth, velvet and plush, for instance, they +are not available and pouncing is the only way that answers.</p><p><a name="Page_556" id="Page_556"></a></p> + +<p>The patterns, after having been transferred to straw or +parchment paper, have to be pricked through. To do this you +lay the paper upon cloth or felt and prick out all the lines of +the drawing, making the holes, which should be clear and +round, all exactly the same distance apart.</p> + +<p>The closer and more complicated the pattern is, the finer +and closer the holes should be. Every line of the outline must +be carefully pricked out.</p> + +<p>If the paper be sufficiently thin, several pouncings can be +pricked at the same time, and a symmetrical design can be +folded together into four and all pricked at once.</p> + +<p>The pricked pattern has next to be tacked upon the material, +the side from which the pricking was done next to the +stuff and the little funnel-shaped holes uppermost. Paper and +stuff must be firmly fastened down and kept in position by +drawing pins, so that neither of them may move during the +process, otherwise you will have double lines on the stuff which +you will find very confusing afterwards.</p> + +<p>For the pouncing, use either powdered chalk or charcoal, +according to whether the stuff be dark or light in colour. Dip +the pouncing implement, a thing like a small drum-stick, stuffed +and covered with cloth, into the powder and rub it lightly over +the whole surface of the pricked pattern, so that the powder +penetrates through the pin-holes to the stuff. In default of a +proper pouncing implement take a small stripe of cloth, roll +it up round a stick and wind a string round, and dip this into +the powder.</p> + +<p>When the powder has penetrated to the stuff, remove the +paper and if the pattern is to be repeated, lay it on again +further on, taking care to make the lines meet exactly so that +the join may not be seen.</p> + +<p>When you have finished the pouncing and taken off the +paper, you proceed to draw or rather paint in the pattern +with water-colour paints: Ackermann's are the best for the +purpose; no others, as far as our experience has proved, adhere +so well to even the roughest fabrics or so little affect the +brilliancy of the embroidery thread. Four paints, blue, black, +<a name="Page_557" id="Page_557"></a>yellow and white are sufficient for all purposes, whatever the +colour of the stuff may be.</p> + +<p>On a smooth surface the tracing may be done with a pen +but a small sable-hair brush is preferable under all circumstances.</p> + +<p>The rougher and more hairy the surface, the finer the +brush ought to be, in order that the colour may sink well in +between the fibres.</p> + +<p>Before beginning to paint in the pattern, gently blow away +all the superfluous powder from the surface. This process may +be objected to as being an old one which has been superseded +by new inventions; a resinous powder for instance, by the use +of which patterns can be fixed, as soon as they have been pounced, +by passing a hot iron over the stuff, a sheet of paper +having first been laid upon it to protect it; or else a mixture +of gum and powder which can be dissolved on the stuff itself +by the steam of spirits-of-wine, and various other processes +needless to mention here, as some are only useful in tracing +patterns on a large scale, whilst others require a variety of +appliances, not as a rule, within the reach of those to whom +needle-work is a simple recreation.</p> + +<p><b><a name="The_preparation_of_the_stuffs" id="The_preparation_of_the_stuffs"></a>The preparation of the stuffs and the subdivision of +the patterns</b>.—Long years of experience and practice have +brought us in contact with a good many designers, many of +them artists in their way, so long as it was only a question of +putting their own compositions on paper but who yet found +themselves confronted by real difficulties the moment they were +called upon to transfer them to stuff.</p> + +<p>We shall, as far as possible, point out to our readers the +precautions to be taken in tracing patterns and must for that +purpose go back to one of the first operations, namely that +of pricking.</p> + +<p>To begin with, the paper on which the pattern is should +always be large enough for there to be a clear margin of from +4 to 5 c/m. all round the pattern, so that the pouncing instrument +may never come in contact with the stuff beneath.</p> + +<p>In transferring patterns to stuff, no lines of division should +<a name="Page_558" id="Page_558"></a>ever be made directly upon it either with lead, chalk or charcoal, +as it is hardly ever possible entirely to obliterate them +and they often become very confusing afterwards.</p> + +<p>Before beginning the tracing, divide your stuff into four, +then decide what the width of the border outside the pattern +is to be; it is quite an exceptional thing to carry a pattern +right up to the edge. Stuffs that will take a bend, such as all +linen and cotton textures, can be folded in four, like the paper, +the folds ought then to be pinched and pressed down so that +the lines may remain clear and distinct until the tracing be +finished.</p> + +<p>After dividing it into four, mark out the diagonal lines; +these are absolutely necessary in order to get the corner +figures rightly placed.</p> + +<p>Though most of our readers know how to make these lines +on paper with a pencil and ruler, few, easy as it is, know how +to make them upon stuff. You have only to fold over the +corner of your piece of stuff so that the outside thread of the +warp or cut edge run parallel with the woof edge which +marks the angle of the fold-over.</p> + +<p>This double folding over divides the ground into 8 parts. +To arrange for the outside border or margin, is easy enough +if the stuff and the kind of work you are going to do upon +it admit of the drawing out of threads, as then a thread +drawn out each way serves as a guide for tracing the pattern, +straight to the line of the stuff. It is often better however, +not to draw out the threads for an open-work border till the +pattern be traced. If you do not wish or are not able to draw out +threads to mark the pattern and you are working on a stuff of +which the threads can be counted, follow the directions given +on page <a href="./chapter_7.html#Page_128">128</a>, and explained in fig. <a href="./chapter_7.html#fig_252">252</a>.</p> + +<p>You cannot mark cloth, silk stuffs or plush by folding them +in the above way, cloth and some kinds of silken textures will +not take a bend and others that will would be spoiled by it.</p> + +<p>All such stuffs should be mounted in a frame, before the +pattern be traced and the ground be then divided out in the +following way: take a strong thread, make a knot at one end, +<a name="Page_559" id="Page_559"></a>stick a pin into it and tighten the knot round it; with a pair of +compasses, divide one of the sides into two equal parts, stick +the pin with the knot round it in at the middle and the same +on the opposite side, putting in a second pin by means of +which you stretch the thread; carry other threads across in a +similar way, in the width of the stuff and from corner to corner +and you will have your ground correctly marked out, in such +a manner as to leave no marks when, after pouncing in the +pattern, you remove the threads. Before finishing the pouncing +of a pattern, see that it is the right size for the purpose it is +intended for.</p> + +<p>Supposing that you are tracing a border with a corner, you +should measure the length it will occupy and then by a very +light pouncing, you can mark the points from which the pattern +will have to be repeated. It may be that a gap will be left +in the middle, which, if not too large, can be got rid of without +altering the pattern by pushing the whole thing a little further +in and so shortening the distance between the two corners.</p> + +<p>Should the gap however be too large for this, you will +have to make a supplementary design to fill up the place. The +same thing would be necessary in the case of your having to +shorten a pattern.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_transpose_and_repeat_patterns" id="To_transpose_and_repeat_patterns"></a>To transpose and repeat patterns by means of looking-glasses</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_885">885</a>).—We have referred to the necessity that +often occurs of adapting patterns to certain given proportions; +this can in most cases be done easily enough without the help +of a draughtsman, especially in the case of cross stitch embroideries, +by means of two unframed looking-glasses (Penelope +mirrors, as they are called) used in the following manner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/899.jpg" alt="FIG. 885. TO TRANSPOSE AND REPEAT A STRAIGHT PATTERN BY MEANS +OF LOOKING GLASSES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_885" id="fig_885"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 885. To transpose and repeat a straight pattern by means +of looking glasses.</span> +</div> + +<p>If you want to utilize a piece only of a straight border, or +after repeating it several times, to form a corner with it, you +place the mirror in the first instance across it at right angles, +at the place from which the pattern is to be repeated, and +then exactly diagonally inwards.</p> + +<p>To make a square out of a straight pattern, you take two +mirrors and so place them that they touch at the point where +the diagonal lines meet, as represented in fig. <a href="#fig_885">885</a>, and you +have your square at once.</p><p><a name="Page_560" id="Page_560"></a></p> + +<p>This is all easy enough, but before beginning any large +piece of work it is necessary to consider carefully which parts +of the drawing will best fill the centre and which are best suited +to form the corners, as it is not every part of a straight pattern +that is adapted for repetition.</p> + +<p>A few preliminary trials with the help of the mirrors will +better show the importance of these explanations than anything +further we can say on the subject.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_alter_the_proportions_of_a_pattern" id="To_alter_the_proportions_of_a_pattern"></a>To alter the proportions of a pattern by dividing the +ground into squares</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_886">886</a> and <a href="#fig_887">887</a>).—Cases will occur +where it will be found necessary to subject the pattern to +greater modifications still than those we have hitherto been +dealing with.</p> + +<p>You want, for example, to embroider a rather large running +ground pattern on a piece of stuff, that is relatively too small +for the subject; or a small and rather minute pattern on a large +surface on which it is likely to look, either too insignificant, or +too crowded and confused and the chances are, if you do not +know how to draw, you will either think it necessary to get +a draughtsman to help you or you will give up the piece of +<a name="Page_561" id="Page_561"></a>work altogether, deterred by the difficulties that confront you. +You need not do either if you will follow the directions here +given.</p> + +<p>Take a sheet of large-sized quadrille paper which if necessary +you can prepare for yourself; trace your pattern upon it, +or rule the squares direct upon the drawing, as shown in +fig. <a href="#fig_886">886</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/900.jpg" alt="FIG. 886. DIVIDING THE GROUND INTO SQUARES BEFORE COPYING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_886" id="fig_886"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 886. Dividing the ground into squares before copying.</span> +</div> + +<p>On a second sheet of vegetable paper, rule squares, a fourth, +a third or half as small again as those on the first sheet. Thus, +if the sides of the first squares be 15 m/m. long and you want +to reduce your pattern by one fifth, the sides of your new +squares should measure only 12 m/m.</p> + +<p>If, on the contrary, you want to enlarge the pattern by one +fifth, make the sides of your squares 18 m/m. long.</p> + +<p>Then you follow, square by square, the lines of the drawing, +<a name="Page_562" id="Page_562"></a>extending or contracting them, according to whether the pattern +is to be enlarged or diminished.</p> + +<p>To copy a pattern directly from a piece of embroidery and +enlarge or diminish it at the same time, proceed as follows: +fix the embroidery on a board, stretching it equally in every +direction; then measure the length of the drawing, divide the +centimetres by the number of units corresponding to whatever +the proportions of your copy are to be, and if there be any +fractions of centimetres over, subdivide them into millimetres, +if necessary, into half millimetres and make your division by +whatever measure you have adopted; take a pair of compasses +with dry points, open them sufficiently for the opening to +correspond to the number and the distance obtained by the +division; plant a pin with a thread fastened to it, at the point +indicated by the point of the compasses and repeat the last +operation all along one side of the embroidery and, if possible +a little beyond it, so that it may not be defaced by the +marks of the pins. All you now have to do is to pull the +threads in perfectly straight lines to the opposite side and +carry other threads across them in a similar manner so that the +whole surface be divided into squares.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/901.jpg" alt="FIG. 887. PATTERN REDUCED BY MARKING OUT THE GROUND IN SMALL SQUARES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_887" id="fig_887"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 887. Pattern reduced by marking out the ground in small squares.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is needless to say that if you have to trace a pattern +from a mounted piece of work you cannot stretch it on a +<a name="Page_563" id="Page_563"></a>board; with a little invention however some way can always +be found of planting the pins so as not to injure the work.</p> + +<p><b>To alter the width of a pattern retaining the original +height</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_888">888</a>, <a href="#fig_889">889</a>, <a href="#fig_890">890</a>).—Sometimes it is necessary to +lengthen out a pattern without however altering its height. +In this case you modify the shape of the square and make +long or narrow squares, according to the general shape of the +<a name="Page_564" id="Page_564"></a>design you wish to reproduce. Fig. <a href="#fig_888">888</a> represents a pattern +in Soutache D.M.C, marked out in squares; in fig. <a href="#fig_889">889</a> the +squares are lengthened out a third beyond their original size +and the pattern is expanded; in fig. <a href="#fig_890">890</a>, the squares are +compressed to a third less than their original size.</p> + +<p>This method of subdividing patterns greatly facilitates the +alterations they have so often to undergo and we are sure +that there are few amongst those who have any real aptitude +for needlework, who cannot draw enough to be able to copy +the contents of a square.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/902.jpg" alt="FIG. 888. PATTERN IN SOUTACHE. Original size." title="" /> +<a name="fig_888" id="fig_888"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 888. Pattern in soutache. Original size.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/903.jpg" alt="FIG. 889. PATTERN IN FIG. 888 DRAWN OUT IN THE WIDTH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_889" id="fig_889"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 889. Pattern in fig. <a href="#fig_888">888</a> drawn out in the width.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/904.jpg" alt="FIG. 890. PATTERN IN FIG. 888 COMPRESSED IN THE WIDTH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_890" id="fig_890"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 890. Pattern in fig. <a href="#fig_888">888</a> compressed in the width.</span> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="To_prepare_the_paste" id="To_prepare_the_paste"></a>To prepare the paste for appliqué work</b>.—It may seem +strange to devote a separate paragraph to such an apparently +simple operation; but in appliqué work it is a most important +one, as not only the stuff on which the work is done but +all the expensive accessories are liable to be spoilt by paste +that has been badly prepared.</p> + +<p>Put some wheaten (not rice) starch into a vessel with a +rounded bottom, pour on just enough water to dissolve the +starch and stir it with a wooden spoon till it becomes perfectly +smooth.</p> + +<p>In the meantime put about ¼ of a pint of clean water on +the fire to boil and when it boils add to it a little powdered +pitch or carpenter's glue, in quantity about the size of a pea +and pour in the starch, stirring it the whole time. When the +mixture has boiled up several times take it off the fire and go +on stirring it till it gets cold, otherwise lumps will form in it, +which as we specially pointed out in the preceding chapter, +must never be allowed to get in between the stuff and the paper.</p> + +<p>This kind of paste makes no spots and does not injure even +the most delicate colours as it contains no acid. In winter it +will keep for several days, but in hot weather it very soon +begins to ferment and should then on no account be used.</p> + +<p>Gum arabic ought never to be used for appliqué work, as +it becomes so hard that it is impossible to get the needle +through, whilst the saccharine it contains almost always causes +ugly spots to appear in the stuff when it dries.</p><p><a name="Page_565" id="Page_565"></a></p> + +<p>When the work is finished it is a good plan to spread a very +thin layer of paste over the entire back of it with a fine brush +made of hog's bristles, and not to take it out of the frame +until it is perfectly dry.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_stiffen_new_needlework" id="To_stiffen_new_needlework"></a>To stiffen new needlework.</b>—In the chapter on Irish +lace, page <a href="./chapter_13.html#Page_441">441</a>, we said that new needlework of that kind +had to be ironed; this should be done in the following manner: +when the lace has been taken off its foundation, lay it, face +downwards, on a piece of fine white flannel; then dip a piece +of very stiff new organdie muslin into water, take it out again +almost immediately and wring it slightly, so that no drops +may fall from it, and then dab the wrong side of the lace +all over with this pad of damp muslin and iron it with a hot +iron which should be moved slowly forwards so that the moisture +which the organdie has imparted to the lace may evaporate +slowly. Not until you are quite sure that the lace is dry +should it be taken off the board.</p> + +<p>There is no better way than this of giving new lace that +almost imperceptible degree of stiffness by which alone it is often +to be distinguished from old. Water only does not stiffen +the thread sufficiently and it is difficult with starch to hit upon +exactly the right consistency, whereas the organdie muslin +supplies just the needful quantity.</p> + +<p>Embroidered network can be stiffened in the same manner +and should be damped in the frame on the wrong side and not +taken off until it is quite dry.</p> + +<p>We even recommend embroidery on linen being treated in +the same way but when the linen is very creased, cover it with +a damp cloth and iron upon that first, then take the cloth +away and iron the embroidery itself so as to dry it completely.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_wash_ordinary_lace" id="To_wash_ordinary_lace"></a>To wash ordinary lace.</b>—Wind it round a bottle the +same width top and bottom and cover it entirely with muslin, +fastened to the lace by a few stitches. Fill the bottle half full +of sand, so that it may not get knocked about too violently +when the water boils.</p> + +<p>Immerse the bottle in a saucepan of cold water with a piece +<a name="Page_566" id="Page_566"></a>of soap the size of a nut in it, and if the lace be very dirty, a small +pinch of salt, and let it boil for about an hour pouring off the +water as it gets dirty and adding clean.</p> + +<p>When all the dirt has been boiled out of the lace, which +you will know to be the case when the water remains perfectly +clear, rinse out the soap before you take the lace off the bottle, +by plunging it into cold water.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_wash_real_lace" id="To_wash_real_lace"></a>To wash real lace.</b>—The process is the same as the above, +but as real lace is so seldom washed and is generally very +yellow and fragile, particularly if it has been roughly used, it +is rather difficult to clean.</p> + +<p>If stained or greasy, it should be left to soak for some +hours or even days, in good olive oil. This restores to the +thread that softness and smoothness which use and bad washing +had impaired. After the oil bath it should be washed on +a bottle in the manner already described.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_stiffen_lace" id="To_stiffen_lace"></a>To stiffen lace.</b>—Dip the lace when perfectly dry in thin +starch prepared as follows.</p> + +<p>Take as much fine wheaten starch, as you think you +will require, divide it into two portions and dissolve both in +cold water. Boil the one portion and when it has so far cooled +as to have ceased to steam, stir the cold starch into it and +dilute the whole with cold water to the consistency of thick +cream. If the lace is to be slightly coloured, add a few drops +of black coffee, or dilute the starch with weak tea or guimauve +water; the coffee will give it a dark cream colour, either of +the latter a pale greenish hue.</p> + +<p>Dip the lace in the mixture and squeeze it out gently without +wringing it to get rid of all the superfluous liquid, then +lay it flat on the left hand and beat it for a few minutes with +the right to work the starch well in; repeat the whole process +twice, then roll the lace in fine linen and leave it there till you +are ready to iron or pin it out, as the case may be.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_iron_lace" id="To_iron_lace"></a>To iron lace.</b>—After the lace has lain for an hour or two +in the cloth, iron it if it be machine-made and if it be Irish +Guipure or real point lace of any sort, pin it out.</p><p><a name="Page_567" id="Page_567"></a></p> + +<p>Before you begin to iron, hold the lace tight in your left +hand by the footing and with the right hand pull out all the +picots, along the edge of the lace, to an equal length, then lay +it out flat upon a board covered with white flannel and iron +it with a moderately hot iron, passing the iron backwards and +forwards over it until it be quite dry.</p> + +<p>If creases should come in the ironing where they ought not +to be, dab them over lightly with a sponge moistened with +water and a few drops of starch and pass the iron over them +again.</p> + +<p>After ironing the whole length of lace, pull it out crossways +from left to right, and from right to left and iron it all over +once more. This does away with the artificial stiffness and +gives it the agreable softness and pliancy of new lace.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_pin_out_lace" id="To_pin_out_lace"></a>To pin out lace.</b>—In order to pin out lace in a thoroughly +satisfactory manner, you should provide yourself with a wooden +drum, about 30 c/m. high and from 50 to 60 c/m. in diameter, +large enough to rest upon the knees.</p> + +<p>The outside circumference of the wood should be padded +and covered with grey or white ticking.</p> + +<p>The pins must be exactly the size of the picots they are +to pin down; you will require extremely fine ones for Valenciennes +and coarser for other kinds of lace: steel pins are of no +use whatever, because of their liability to rust. Cover the cylinder +with blue paper (less trying for the eyes than any other) and +take only just as much lace out of the damp cloth as you are +likely to be able to pin out before it gets dry, keeping the remainder +covered up.</p> + +<p>Lay the lace upon the drum and pin the footing down first +in a straight line, sticking the pins in pretty closely and at +regular distances apart; then pin down each picot separately, +taking care not to open them if they have kept their original +shape and to shut them up by twisting them if they have got +untwisted.</p> + +<p>If you find the pinning out troublesome and cannot get it all +done before the lace dries, damp the picots with a sponge as +you proceed.</p><p><a name="Page_568" id="Page_568"></a></p> + +<p>Lace should never be pinned out when it is dry as the +threads of the picots are then very apt to break and torn picots +destroy the value of even the choicest lace.</p> + +<p>Raised lace has to be stamped out from the wrong side +with a lace awl or kind of pricker of bone made for the purpose. +Some professional lace-cleaners use this implement even for +Valenciennes lace but we cannot recommend it, seeing that it +is a lace that is by nature perfectly flat.</p> + +<p>Let the length of lace you have pinned out remain on the +drum till it be quite dry; if you have several yards to pin out, +wind it round and round the cylinder. Cover up the lace as you +proceed and put each length away as soon as it is ready in +a blue paper bag, so as to keep the whole perfectly clean.</p> + +<p>In conclusion we may remark that the cleaning of lace +should only be undertaken when you are fairly sure of not +being interrupted, as more especially the pinning requires to +be finished off as quickly as possible.</p> + +<p><b><a name="To_wash_coloured_cottons" id="To_wash_coloured_cottons"></a>To wash coloured cottons and work done with the +same</b>.—In order to test the fastness of the dyes, untie the +skeins and pour boiling water upon them, leave them to soak +for about a quarter of an hour, soap and rub them lightly +with the hand from end to end and rinse them out thoroughly +in as many changes of cold water as may be found necessary, +until the water remain perfectly colourless.</p> + +<p>Squeeze out all the water you can and let them dry quickly +without exposing them to the sun.</p> + +<p>Coloured cottons are often washed in vinegar, because it is +supposed to affect the colour less than water does. We +have come to the conclusion after several trials that this is a +delusion, for the good dyes keep their colour without the aid +of vinegar and the bad ones wash out in spite of it.</p> + +<p>The fast colours lose none of their beauty in the process +nor does it affect the quality of the cotton; any excess of colouring +matter which the fibres of the cotton may have absorbed +in the process of dyeing is got rid of by this means.</p> + +<p>If a piece of work has been done with unwashed cottons +and the colours run in the first washing, you have only to rinse +<a name="Page_569" id="Page_569"></a>it out in several changes of tepid water to restore it to its +original freshness and if you want to give it a yellowish tinge, +it should be dipped it in weak tea or coffee.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Materials" id="Materials"></a>Materials.</b>—It was stated in the preface that our readers +would find the choice of colours and material rendered comparatively +easy to them by the notes affixed to the illustrations, +but these notes, in spite of all the care bestowed upon them +must still have remained very incomplete had it not been for the +following tables which we were fortunately enabled to append +to our work and which will help every one to choose their own +materials without having them actually before them. The +strokes that are affixed to each number indicate the exact size +of the thread, so that to find out the number you want to buy +you have but to lay your pattern thread, stretching it slightly, +on the strokes, in succession, till you come to the one that +matches it in size.</p> + +<p>With regard to the colours, the names and shades of which +have been classed in the second table with the greatest care, and +of which our workers have no less than 460 to choose from <a name="FNanchor_3_158" id="FNanchor_3_158"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_158" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>, +all those referred to in connection with our illustrations are +quite fast dyes <a name="FNanchor_4_159" id="FNanchor_4_159"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_159" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>, save in a few instances in which we +were forced to make an exception in favour of a doubtful colour +to secure a harmonious effect.</p> + +<p>A complete table of colours must of necessity include certain +more or less staring shades, which though they may not +be to every one's taste cannot on that account be left out.</p> + +<p>We conclude our work with the well-meant and by no +means useless recommendation to our readers, never to begin +a piece of work of any considerable size without first making +sure that the colours they intend to use are fast and providing +themselves with a larger supply of materials than even on a close +calculation they think they are likely to require, lest +<a name="Page_570" id="Page_570"></a><a name="Page_571" id="Page_571"></a><a name="Page_572" id="Page_572"></a><a name="Page_573" id="Page_573"></a>they should find themselves under the disagreable necessity of +having either to leave their work unfinished or finish it with +materials that do not match. There is generally a slight difference +in tone between cottons that have been bought at different times, +and there is also a reasonable likelihood, considering their +great variety, of some mistake being made in the number by +either buyer or seller in ordering a fresh supply.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/full_905.jpg"><img src="images/905.jpg" style = "width: 600px; height: 462px;" alt="All of the above articles, excepting those marked with an asterisk, +are made in all numbers in écru, white, black and the 450 shades contained in the D.M.C colour card.--For the names of the colours, see next page." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">All of the above articles, excepting those marked with an asterisk, +are made in all numbers in écru, white, black and the 450 shades contained in the D.M.C colour card.--For the names of the colours, see next page.</span> +</div> + + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='6' class="bl bt br"> Alphabetical list of the names and the numbers of the 450 shades +D.M.C Alsace Thread, Sewing and Embroidery Cottons, +contained in the D.M.C colour-card, in any of which shades the +knitting Cotton, Soutaches and Braids etc. are to be had.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl bt bb"><b>Couleurs</b><br />Colours</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Très-foncé</b><br />Very dark</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Foncé</b><br />Dark</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Moyen</b><br />Medium</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Clair</b><br />Light</td><td align='center' class="br bb bt"> <b>Très-clair</b><br />Very light</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu d'Azur</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3325</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Canard</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3395</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3306</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3307</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3308</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3309</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu cendré</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 448</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu de Ciel</td><td align='center' class="br"> 515</td><td align='center' class="br"> 516</td><td align='center' class="br"> 517</td><td align='center' class="br"> 518</td><td align='center' class="br"> 519</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Fayence</td><td align='center' class="br"> 481</td><td align='center' class="br"> 482</td><td align='center' class="br"> 483</td><td align='center' class="br"> 484</td><td align='center' class="br"> 485</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu de France</td><td align='center' class="br"> 337</td><td align='center' class="br"> 338</td><td align='center' class="br"> 339</td><td align='center' class="br"> 340</td><td align='center' class="br"> 341</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Gentiane</td><td align='center' class="br"> 476</td><td align='center' class="br"> 477</td><td align='center' class="br"> 478</td><td align='center' class="br"> 479</td><td align='center' class="br"> 480</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Gris</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3300</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3301</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3302</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3303</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3304</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Indigo</td><td align='center' class="br"> 336</td><td align='center' class="br"> 311</td><td align='center' class="br"> 312</td><td align='center' class="br"> 322</td><td align='center' class="br"> 334</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Lapis</td><td align='center' class="br"> 342</td><td align='center' class="br"> 333</td><td align='center' class="br"> 343</td><td align='center' class="br"> 344</td><td align='center' class="br"> 345</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Marin</td><td align='center' class="br"> 505</td><td align='center' class="br"> 506</td><td align='center' class="br"> 507</td><td align='center' class="br"> 508</td><td align='center' class="br"> 509</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Outremer</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 682</td><td align='center' class="br"> 683</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu pâle</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 668</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu-Prunelle</td><td align='center' class="br"> 486</td><td align='center' class="br"> 487</td><td align='center' class="br"> 488</td><td align='center' class="br"> 489</td><td align='center' class="br"> 490</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu tendre</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 709</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu vert</td><td align='center' class="br"> 525</td><td align='center' class="br"> 526</td><td align='center' class="br"> 527</td><td align='center' class="br"> 528</td><td align='center' class="br"> 529</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bleu violacé</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 674</td><td align='center' class="br"> 675</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Bronze doré</td><td align='center' class="br"> 585</td><td align='center' class="br"> 586</td><td align='center' class="br"> 587</td><td align='center' class="br"> 588</td><td align='center' class="br"> 589</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Acajou</td><td align='center' class="br"> 300</td><td align='center' class="br"> 400</td><td align='center' class="br"> 301</td><td align='center' class="br"> 401</td><td align='center' class="br"> 402</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Cachou</td><td align='center' class="br"> 433</td><td align='center' class="br"> 434</td><td align='center' class="br"> 435</td><td align='center' class="br"> 436</td><td align='center' class="br"> 437</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Cannelle</td><td align='center' class="br"> 660</td><td align='center' class="br"> 661</td><td align='center' class="br"> 662</td><td align='center' class="br"> 663</td><td align='center' class="br"> 664</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Caroubier</td><td align='center' class="br"> 354</td><td align='center' class="br"> 355</td><td align='center' class="br"> 303</td><td align='center' class="br"> 356</td><td align='center' class="br"> 357</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Chamois</td><td align='center' class="br"> 416</td><td align='center' class="br"> 417</td><td align='center' class="br"> 324</td><td align='center' class="br"> 418</td><td align='center' class="br"> 419</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Cuir</td><td align='center' class="br"> 430</td><td align='center' class="br"> 431</td><td align='center' class="br"> 302</td><td align='center' class="br"> 432</td><td align='center' class="br"> 325</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Feuille-morte</td><td align='center' class="br"> 615</td><td align='center' class="br"> 616</td><td align='center' class="br"> 617</td><td align='center' class="br"> 618</td><td align='center' class="br"> 619</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Havane</td><td align='center' class="br"> 454</td><td align='center' class="br"> 455</td><td align='center' class="br"> 456</td><td align='center' class="br"> 457</td><td align='center' class="br"> 458</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Loutre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 438</td><td align='center' class="br"> 439</td><td align='center' class="br"> 440</td><td align='center' class="br"> 441</td><td align='center' class="br"> 442</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Marron</td><td align='center' class="br"> 403</td><td align='center' class="br"> 404</td><td align='center' class="br"> 405</td><td align='center' class="br"> 406</td><td align='center' class="br"> 407</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Myrthe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 463</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Puce</td><td align='center' class="br"> 459</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Brun-Rouille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3310</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3311</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3312</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3313</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3314</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Acier</td><td align='center' class="br"> 650</td><td align='center' class="br"> 651</td><td align='center' class="br"> 652</td><td align='center' class="br"> 653</td><td align='center' class="br"> 654</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Amadou</td><td align='center' class="br"> 329</td><td align='center' class="br"> 383</td><td align='center' class="br"> 384</td><td align='center' class="br"> 385</td><td align='center' class="br"> 386</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris d'Argent</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 719</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Bleu</td><td align='center' class="br"> 590</td><td align='center' class="br"> 591</td><td align='center' class="br"> 592</td><td align='center' class="br"> 593</td><td align='center' class="br"> 594</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Bois</td><td align='center' class="br"> 610</td><td align='center' class="br"> 611</td><td align='center' class="br"> 612</td><td align='center' class="br"> 613</td><td align='center' class="br"> 614</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Brun</td><td align='center' class="br"> 408</td><td align='center' class="br"> 409</td><td align='center' class="br"> 410</td><td align='center' class="br"> 411</td><td align='center' class="br"> 412</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Castor</td><td align='center' class="br"> 645</td><td align='center' class="br"> 646</td><td align='center' class="br"> 647</td><td align='center' class="br"> 648</td><td align='center' class="br"> 649</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Cendre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 413</td><td align='center' class="br"> 317</td><td align='center' class="br"> 414</td><td align='center' class="br"> 318</td><td align='center' class="br"> 415</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Coutil</td><td align='center' class="br"> 387</td><td align='center' class="br"> 388</td><td align='center' class="br"> 323</td><td align='center' class="br"> 389</td><td align='center' class="br"> 390</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Deuil</td><td align='center' class="br"> 655</td><td align='center' class="br"> 656</td><td align='center' class="br"> 657</td><td align='center' class="br"> 658</td><td align='center' class="br"> 659</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Écru</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 704</td><td align='center' class="br"> 705</td><td align='center' class="br"> 706</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Etoupe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 707</td><td align='center' class="br"> 708</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris de Fer</td><td align='center' class="br"> 600</td><td align='center' class="br"> 601</td><td align='center' class="br"> 602</td><td align='center' class="br"> 603</td><td align='center' class="br"> 604</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Feutre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 635</td><td align='center' class="br"> 636</td><td align='center' class="br"> 637</td><td align='center' class="br"> 638</td><td align='center' class="br"> 639</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Ficelle</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 460</td><td align='center' class="br"> 461</td><td align='center' class="br"> 462</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Foin</td><td align='center' class="br"> 520</td><td align='center' class="br"> 521</td><td align='center' class="br"> 522</td><td align='center' class="br"> 523</td><td align='center' class="br"> 524</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Fumée</td><td align='center' class="br"> 640</td><td align='center' class="br"> 641</td><td align='center' class="br"> 642</td><td align='center' class="br"> 643</td><td align='center' class="br"> 644</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Lin</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 716</td><td align='center' class="br"> 717</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Mastic</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 718</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris neutre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 620</td><td align='center' class="br"> 621</td><td align='center' class="br"> 622</td><td align='center' class="br"> 623</td><td align='center' class="br"> 624</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Noisette</td><td align='center' class="br"> 420</td><td align='center' class="br"> 421</td><td align='center' class="br"> 422</td><td align='center' class="br"> 423</td><td align='center' class="br"> 424</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Perle</td><td align='center' class="br"> 625</td><td align='center' class="br"> 626</td><td align='center' class="br"> 627</td><td align='center' class="br"> 628</td><td align='center' class="br"> 629</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris de Plomb</td><td align='center' class="br"> 378</td><td align='center' class="br"> 379</td><td align='center' class="br"> 380</td><td align='center' class="br"> 381</td><td align='center' class="br"> 382</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Poussière</td><td align='center' class="br"> 630</td><td align='center' class="br"> 631</td><td align='center' class="br"> 632</td><td align='center' class="br"> 633</td><td align='center' class="br"> 634</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Souris</td><td align='center' class="br"> 425</td><td align='center' class="br"> 426</td><td align='center' class="br"> 427</td><td align='center' class="br"> 428</td><td align='center' class="br"> 429</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris-Tilleul</td><td align='center' class="br"> 391</td><td align='center' class="br"> 392</td><td align='center' class="br"> 393</td><td align='center' class="br"> 330</td><td align='center' class="br"> 331</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Gris verdâtre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 595</td><td align='center' class="br"> 596</td><td align='center' class="br"> 597</td><td align='center' class="br"> 598</td><td align='center' class="br"> 599</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Citron</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 307</td><td align='center' class="br"> 445</td><td align='center' class="br"> 446</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Crême</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 711</td><td align='center' class="br"> 712</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Maïs</td><td align='center' class="br"> 575</td><td align='center' class="br"> 576</td><td align='center' class="br"> 577</td><td align='center' class="br"> 678</td><td align='center' class="br"> 579</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune d'Ocre</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 676</td><td align='center' class="br"> 677</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Orange</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 443</td><td align='center' class="br"> 444</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-Rouille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 363</td><td align='center' class="br"> 364</td><td align='center' class="br"> 308</td><td align='center' class="br"> 365</td><td align='center' class="br"> 366</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune d'Or</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 667</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Jaune-vieil-Or</td><td align='center' class="br"> 678</td><td align='center' class="br"> 679</td><td align='center' class="br"> 680</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Lilas gris</td><td align='center' class="br"> 313</td><td align='center' class="br"> 398</td><td align='center' class="br"> 314</td><td align='center' class="br"> 328</td><td align='center' class="br"> 399</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Noir grand-teint</td><td align='center' class="br"> 310</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Noir-Jais</td><td align='center' class="br"> 681</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Noir vert</td><td align='center' class="br"> 473</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rose-Eglantine</td><td align='center' class="br"> 570</td><td align='center' class="br"> 571</td><td align='center' class="br"> 572</td><td align='center' class="br"> 573</td><td align='center' class="br"> 574</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rose tendre</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3326</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rose vif</td><td align='center' class="br"> 565</td><td align='center' class="br"> 566</td><td align='center' class="br"> 567</td><td align='center' class="br"> 568</td><td align='center' class="br"> 569</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Aurore</td><td align='center' class="br"> 360</td><td align='center' class="br"> 306</td><td align='center' class="br"> 361</td><td align='center' class="br"> 332</td><td align='center' class="br"> 362</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Bordeaux</td><td align='center' class="br"> 496</td><td align='center' class="br"> 497</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Cardinal</td><td align='center' class="br"> 346</td><td align='center' class="br"> 347</td><td align='center' class="br"> 304</td><td align='center' class="br"> 305</td><td align='center' class="br"> 348</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Cerise</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3315</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3316</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3317</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3318</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3319</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Corinthe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 447</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Cornouille</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 449</td><td align='center' class="br"> 450</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Ecarlate</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 498</td><td align='center' class="br"> 464</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Framboise</td><td align='center' class="br"> 684</td><td align='center' class="br"> 685</td><td align='center' class="br"> 686</td><td align='center' class="br"> 687</td><td align='center' class="br"> 688</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Géranium</td><td align='center' class="br"> 349</td><td align='center' class="br"> 350</td><td align='center' class="br"> 351</td><td align='center' class="br"> 352</td><td align='center' class="br"> 353</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Grenat</td><td align='center' class="br"> 358</td><td align='center' class="br"> 359</td><td align='center' class="br"> 326</td><td align='center' class="br"> 309</td><td align='center' class="br"> 335</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Groseille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 605</td><td align='center' class="br"> 606</td><td align='center' class="br"> 607</td><td align='center' class="br"> 608</td><td align='center' class="br"> 609</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Maroquin</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3327</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3328</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3329</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Turc</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 321</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Rouge-Vermillon</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 666</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Bouteille</td><td align='center' class="br"> 491</td><td align='center' class="br"> 492</td><td align='center' class="br"> 493</td><td align='center' class="br"> 494</td><td align='center' class="br"> 495</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Bronze</td><td align='center' class="br"> 669</td><td align='center' class="br"> 670</td><td align='center' class="br"> 671</td><td align='center' class="br"> 672</td><td align='center' class="br"> 673</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Canard</td><td align='center' class="br"> 545</td><td align='center' class="br"> 546</td><td align='center' class="br"> 547</td><td align='center' class="br"> 548</td><td align='center' class="br"> 549</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Corbeau</td><td align='center' class="br"> 665</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert doré</td><td align='center' class="br"> 580</td><td align='center' class="br"> 581</td><td align='center' class="br"> 582</td><td align='center' class="br"> 583</td><td align='center' class="br"> 584</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert d'Eau</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 713</td><td align='center' class="br"> 714</td><td align='center' class="br"> 715</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-de-gris</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 474</td><td align='center' class="br"> 475</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Emeraude</td><td align='center' class="br"> 555</td><td align='center' class="br"> 556</td><td align='center' class="br"> 557</td><td align='center' class="br"> 558</td><td align='center' class="br"> 559</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Fauve</td><td align='center' class="br"> 689</td><td align='center' class="br"> 690</td><td align='center' class="br"> 691</td><td align='center' class="br"> 692</td><td align='center' class="br"> 693</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Lierre</td><td align='center' class="br"> 500</td><td align='center' class="br"> 501</td><td align='center' class="br"> 502</td><td align='center' class="br"> 503</td><td align='center' class="br"> 504</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Madeira</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 710</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Malachite</td><td align='center' class="br"> 560</td><td align='center' class="br"> 561</td><td align='center' class="br"> 562</td><td align='center' class="br"> 563</td><td align='center' class="br"> 564</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert métallique</td><td align='center' class="br"> 465</td><td align='center' class="br"> 466</td><td align='center' class="br"> 467</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Mousse</td><td align='center' class="br"> 468</td><td align='center' class="br"> 469</td><td align='center' class="br"> 470</td><td align='center' class="br"> 471</td><td align='center' class="br"> 472</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Myrthe</td><td align='center' class="br"> 535</td><td align='center' class="br"> 536</td><td align='center' class="br"> 537</td><td align='center' class="br"> 538</td><td align='center' class="br"> 539</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Olive</td><td align='center' class="br"> 510</td><td align='center' class="br"> 511</td><td align='center' class="br"> 512</td><td align='center' class="br"> 513</td><td align='center' class="br"> 514</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Perroquet</td><td align='center' class="br"> 694</td><td align='center' class="br"> 695</td><td align='center' class="br"> 696</td><td align='center' class="br"> 697</td><td align='center' class="br"> 698</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Pistache</td><td align='center' class="br"> 319</td><td align='center' class="br"> 367</td><td align='center' class="br"> 320</td><td align='center' class="br"> 368</td><td align='center' class="br"> 369</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert-Pré</td><td align='center' class="br"> 699</td><td align='center' class="br"> 700</td><td align='center' class="br"> 701</td><td align='center' class="br"> 702</td><td align='center' class="br"> 703</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Vert russe</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br"> 499</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' class="br bl">——</td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td><td align='center' class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Améthyste</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3320</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3321</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3322</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3323</td><td align='center' class="br"> 3324</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Evêque</td><td align='center' class="br"> 451</td><td align='center' class="br"> 452</td><td align='center' class="br"> 453</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td><td align='center' class="br">...</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Lie-de-vin</td><td align='center' class="br"> 370</td><td align='center' class="br"> 371</td><td align='center' class="br"> 372</td><td align='center' class="br"> 373</td><td align='center' class="br"> 374</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Mauve</td><td align='center' class="br"> 375</td><td align='center' class="br"> 315</td><td align='center' class="br"> 376</td><td align='center' class="br"> 316</td><td align='center' class="br"> 377</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-de-Parme</td><td align='center' class="br"> 540</td><td align='center' class="br"> 541</td><td align='center' class="br"> 542</td><td align='center' class="br"> 543</td><td align='center' class="br"> 544</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Pensée</td><td align='center' class="br"> 530</td><td align='center' class="br"> 531</td><td align='center' class="br"> 532</td><td align='center' class="br"> 533</td><td align='center' class="br"> 534</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Prune</td><td align='center' class="br"> 550</td><td align='center' class="br"> 551</td><td align='center' class="br"> 552</td><td align='center' class="br"> 553</td><td align='center' class="br"> 554</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl">Violet-Scabieuse</td><td align='center' class="br"> 394</td><td align='center' class="br"> 327</td><td align='center' class="br"> 395</td><td align='center' class="br"> 396</td><td align='center' class="br"> 397</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' class="br bl bt bb"><b>Couleurs</b><br />Colours</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Très-foncé</b><br />Very dark</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Foncé</b><br />Dark</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Moyen</b><br />Medium</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Clair</b><br />Light</td><td align='center' class="br bt bb"> <b>Très-clair</b><br />Very light</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>To avoid mistakes the public is urgently requested to designate the colours by the number, never by name.</p> + +<p>The colours whose numbers begin with 3 or 4 are the fastest.</p> + + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + +<p class='center'>Further information respecting mode of execution, materials and so forth +may be had by applying to the firm of</p> + +<p class='center smcap'>TH. de DILLMONT, DORNACH (Alsace).</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_158" id="Footnote_3_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_158"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The D.M.C colour-card consists of 450 shades about half of which are +fast dyes. See the list of names on pp. <a href="#Page_572">572</a> and <a href="#Page_573">573</a>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_159" id="Footnote_4_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_159"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> By fast (bon-teint) colours are meant those which will bear ordinary +and repeated washing. There are only very few which are really fast, or grand-teint, +that is to say, which will resist the action of chemical agents, amongst +of these, the black, Noir 310, is quite indestructible.</p></div> +</div> +</body> +</html> |