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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont.
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<p><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473"></a></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/787.jpg" alt="VENETIAN LACE OF THE XVI CENTURY." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Venetian lace of the xvi century.</span>
</div>
<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<h2><a name="Laces_of_different_kinds" id="Laces_of_different_kinds"></a>Laces of different kinds.</h2>
<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<p>In general, to the uninitiated, the word «lace» signifies
exclusively the delicate and elaborate fabrics that owe their
origin to Venice and the Netherlands and were thence imported
into other countries. But besides Venetian, French, English,
Chantilly, Brussels, Sedan point, names familiar to every one,
there are all kinds of other laces, likewise of great antiquity,
and named as the above are, after the country they belong to.</p>
<p>As it would be impossible in these pages to give a comprehensive
account of them all, we have restricted ourselves to
such as seem more especially suited to the amateur, to whom
needlework is a mere recreation and pastime.</p>
<p>Worked like the above-named entirely with the needle,
but much less elaborate and minute in character and workmanship,
they are quicker and easier to make and we are sure that
by the help of the directions that accompany the illustrations,
any careful worker will be able to imitate them without difficulty.</p>
<p><b>Materials.</b>—It will be observed that we do not bind ourselves
in the following directions to one size of cotton, that as
in point of fact, one and the same piece of work can be executed
in either fine or coarse cotton, we have only indicated the most
suitable kind of material to use: as for instance for Armenian
<a name="Page_474" id="Page_474"></a>lace, Fil à pointer D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, for
Smyrna or knotted lace, Fil à pointer D.M.C, Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C and Fil à dentelle D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, for Reticella and Venetian
lace, Fil d'Alsace D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, for Brussels lace, the finest numbers
of Fil à dentelle and for pillow lace, any one of those
enumerated, excepting Coton à broder surfin.</p>
<p><b><a name="Materials" id="Materials"></a>Pillow lace and the necessary articles for its manufacture</b>.—Pillow
lace derives its name from the cushion or pillow
on which all bobbin lace is made, which distinguishes it
from point lace, so-called because it consists of «points» or
stitches made with a needle and thread.</p>
<p>Various articles are required for the making of pillow lace;
in the first place a cushion or pillow, then bobbins and a
winder, parchment patterns, pins and a pricker.</p>
<p><b>The lace pillow</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_774">774</a>, <a href="#fig_775">775</a>, <a href="#fig_776">776</a>).—The pillows used
for pillow lace are of different kinds and vary in shape with
where the country,
and the manner
in which the lace
is made.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/788.jpg" alt="FIG. 774. THE LACE PILLOW." title="" />
<a name="fig_774" id="fig_774"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 774. The lace pillow.</span>
</div>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_774">774</a> represents
the shape in
use in the mountains
of Bohemia
and Saxony, where
pillow lace has always
been one of
the chief industries
of the inhabitants.
Any one can make
a cushion of this
kind themselves
with a piece of
stuff, 60 c/m. long
and 40 wide. The
long sides are firmly sewn together and the short ones turned
<a name="Page_475" id="Page_475"></a>in with a narrow hem through which you run a cord to draw
them up. A disc of stout cardboard is put inside the case after
you have gathered up the one end; you then stuff the case as
full as possible with bran, sawdust or horsehair, lay a second
disc of cardboard in at the top and draw up the other end.</p>
<p>These pillows are then put into cardboard boxes with
rather high sides, or into a kind of basket, weighted at the
bottom, to keep it firm and steady. Pillows of this most
primitive kind have the great advantage of being perfectly easy
to make.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_775">775</a> represents a pillow of a more complicated kind,
which can be stood upon the table or mounted on a stand. The
cylinder is movable so that you can go on working without
interruption.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/789.jpg" alt="FIG. 775. PILLOW WITH MOVABLE CYLINDER FOR MAKING LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_775" id="fig_775"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 775. Pillow with movable cylinder for making lace.</span>
</div>
<p>The whole apparatus consists of a board or stand, 50 c/m.
long and 40 wide, resting upon two transverse pieces of wood,
3½ c/m. high behind and 1 c/m. in front.</p>
<p>The board should be covered, first with a very thick flannel
or Bath coating and then with a fine dark green flannel or cloth.</p><p><a name="Page_476" id="Page_476"></a></p>
<p>Two small supports are fixed on to the outside edge of the
stand to hold the cylinder, which consists of two discs that
revolve on a rod about 22 c/m. long.</p>
<p>This rod should be covered, in the first place with a thick
layer of tow and then with flannel or cloth.</p>
<p>On the left side of the cylinder is a cog-wheel and a metal
spring is attached to the board, by means of which the wheel
is prevented from turning the wrong way.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_776">776</a> shows how the bobbins are placed upon the pillow.
In Normandy a kind of stuffed box is used instead of a pillow.
The board is 3 c/m. higher behind than in front and is deeply
grooved to hold the cylinder, which is stuffed and shaped like
the one represented in fig. <a href="#fig_775">775</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/790.jpg" alt="FIG. 776. POSITION OF THE BOBBINS AND THE WORK ON THE CUSHION FIG. 775." title="" />
<a name="fig_776" id="fig_776"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 776. Position of the bobbins and the work on the cushion fig. <a href="#fig_775">775</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>This cylinder scarcely projects above the stand, a second
groove in the back edge receives the lace as it is worked off the
cylinder.</p>
<p>The pillows used for Valenciennes lace are of again a different
construction, but as it is not our intention in the present
work to describe the finer kinds of lace it appeared superfluous
to give any illustration of the pillows on which they are made.</p>
<p><b>The bobbins</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_777">777</a>).—A bobbin is a sort of little wooden
spool with a handle to it; there are several varieties of them
but we have confined ourselves to a representation of the
kind considered best for beginners.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/791.jpg" alt="FIG. 777. THE BOBBIN (Jamnig's patent)." title="" />
<a name="fig_777" id="fig_777"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 777. The bobbin</span> (Jamnig's patent).</span>
</div>
<p>As a considerable number are wanted for every pattern and
they are apt to slip about and get entangled in inexperienced
hands, they are now to be had with the handles weighted
with lead to steady them and counteract any independent
motion of their own. We cannot help again laying great stress
on the importance of seeing that the size of the bobbins and
the number of the cotton be well assorted to the kind of lace.</p>
<p><b>The winder</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_778">778</a>).—Every one who means to take
the work seriously should provide themselves with a winder,
as here represented, which is affixed to a polished wooden stand.</p><p><a name="Page_477" id="Page_477"></a></p>
<p>This stand has to be firmly screwed to the table and the
bobbin is squeezed in between the two little rods fitted into
the supports at the left end of the stand; one of these rods
serves as the axle to the little wheel, the other can be drawn
in and out and fitted to the length of the bobbin.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/792.jpg" alt="FIG. 778. THE WINDER (Jamnig's patent)." title="" />
<a name="fig_778" id="fig_778"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 778. The winder</span> (Jamnig's patent).</span>
</div>
<p>When the bobbin is fixed in its place, you take the thread
in the left hand and wind it round it, turning the wheel with
the right hand from right to left in the direction indicated by
the arrow.</p>
<p>The thread is wound round the handles of the bobbins that
are used for making very fine lace, and a wooden shield that is so
contrived that you can slip it over the handle prevents the thread
from getting soiled.</p>
<p><b>Stoppage of the thread
at the end of the bobbin</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_779">779</a>).—After cutting
off the thread, you make a
loop close to the top of the
bobbin to prevent it from
unwinding too easily. This
loop is formed by taking the bobbin in the right hand, the
thread between the fourth and fifth fingers of the left hand
<a name="Page_478" id="Page_478"></a>and laying it away from you round the left thumb; then lifting
up the bottom thread with the second finger of the left hand
you pass the bobbin upwards from below through the loop on
the left hand.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 375px;">
<img src="images/793.jpg" alt="FIG. 779. STOPPAGE OF THE THREAD AT THE END OF THE BOBBIN." title="" />
<a name="fig_779" id="fig_779"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 779. Stoppage of the thread at the end of the bobbin.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Machine for crossing the threads</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_780">780</a>).—This ingenious
little machine is of great assistance in making straight
running patterns and Irish lace braids, and is particularly
useful for Russian lace and braid lace of all kinds.</p>
<p>It renders the even crossing of the threads in those parts
of a pattern that imitate linen in texture comparatively easy.</p>
<p>Two implements
like combs, fitting
into one another, and
movable, are mounted
at two thirds of
their length on a steel
axle. The long teeth
have holes bored
through the ends,
from the sides to
the middle of the
points and through
these holes the
threads from the bobbins are passed.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;">
<img src="images/794.jpg" alt="FIG. 780. MACHINE FOR CROSSING THE THREADS (Jamnig's patent)." title="" />
<a name="fig_780" id="fig_780"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 780. Machine for crossing the threads</span> (Jamnig's patent).</span>
</div>
<p>The short teeth also are pierced with transverse holes,
through which a needle with the threads threaded in the long
teeth resting upon it, is passed. The points of the short teeth
are covered with a hollow metal cylinder, split through from
end to end, which can be removed when new threads have to
be added.</p>
<p>When the threads are all on, a small spring is fixed to the
two ends of the axle, which is independent of the machine, and
the two ends of the spring are introduced into the hollow of
the cylinder.</p>
<p>By the pressure you exercise on the teeth in the cylinder,
the long teeth change their position, the lower ones rise and
the upper ones fall and the threads cross each other, as in a loom.
After each movement of the machine, the bobbin that makes
<a name="Page_479" id="Page_479"></a>the woof must be passed between the crossed threads; the
edges are made like those of any other kind of lace.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_781">781</a> explains how the bobbins are passed between the
threads that are held between the teeth of the machine.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<img src="images/795.jpg" alt="FIG. 781. PASSAGE OF THE BOBBINS THROUGH THE MACHINE." title="" />
<a name="fig_781" id="fig_781"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 781. Passage of the bobbins through the machine.</span>
</div>
<p><b>The pattern</b>.—The pattern is one of the most important
things in making pillow lace.</p>
<p>The outlines must be clear and exact, as upon that in
great measure the perfection of the lace depends.</p>
<p>The drawing transferred to parchment, paper or cardboard,
usually of a yellowish tint, should be lined with a very thin
stuff such as muslin to prevent its tearing.</p>
<p>A stripe of quadrille, or point paper as it is called, should
be laid upon the pattern and then holes pricked with a medium-sized
needle at every intersection of the lines.</p>
<p>All the curved long lines of the pattern must first be traced
upon the point paper with ink and then pricked.</p><p><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480"></a></p>
<p>The pattern should be adapted to the thickness of the
thread the lace is to be made of; for a coarse lace large point
paper should be used and small, for the finer kinds of lace.
The pricking of the pattern beforehand is particularly important
in the case of the common torchon lace, where the real
beauty of the design consists in its regularity; in the case of
fine close patterns the pricking can only be done as you
proceed.</p>
<p>Prickers and holders of the kind represented in fig. <a href="#fig_782">782</a> or
very much resembling it, are to be had at every stationer's shop.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/796.jpg" alt="FIG. 782. PRICKER AND HOLDER." title="" />
<a name="fig_782" id="fig_782"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 782. Pricker and holder.</span>
</div>
<p>The holes made by the prickers are to receive the pins,
stuck in as you go along, round which you form and by which
these are kept in their place.</p>
<p>The pins must be long, with round heads and of a size
suited to the thread. When your pattern is ready fasten it to
the pillow or cylinder as the case may be, stretching it as
smoothly as possible and being careful in so doing to fit the
lines of the pattern together. If it be too long it must be cut
to the required length or you may make the cylinder bigger
by wrapping several folds of flannel round it.</p><p><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481"></a></p>
<p>The value of lace depends not only on the work but on
the thread it is made of; all the D.M.C cottons<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> can be recommended
for lace-making and coloured laces of all kinds
are greatly improved by the addition of a little Chiné d'or
D.M.C or Or fin D.M.C pour la broderie.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p>
<p><b><a name="Position_and_movements_of_the_hands" id="Position_and_movements_of_the_hands"></a>Position and movements of the hands</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_783">783</a>).—Pillow
lace is always made with two pairs of bobbins at once
and the «stitches» are formed by the different ways of passing,
plaiting, crossing and twisting the threads.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/797.jpg" alt="FIG. 783. POSITION AND MOVEMENTS OF THE HANDS." title="" />
<a name="fig_783" id="fig_783"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 783. Position and movements of the hands.</span>
</div>
<p>To begin with the simplest operation, making a plait, hang
2 pairs of bobbins to a pin, take 2 bobbins in each hand and
lay the right bobbin of each pair over its left fellow and draw
up the threads slightly. Then take the bobbins in the 2nd, 3rd
and 4th fingers of the right hand and with the same
fingers of the left, lay the 2nd bobbin over the 3rd
with the 2nd and 3rd fingers of the left, so that
the two middle bobbins are crossed, then take the
4th bobbin in the 2nd and 3rd fingers of the right
hand and the bobbin that is now the 2nd, in the
3rd and 4th fingers of the left hand and lay the former
over the 3rd, the latter over the 1st. This constitutes
a «half passing».</p>
<p>The plait, fig. <a href="#fig_784">784</a>, is formed by the repetition
of the half passing. Two half passings make a whole
or «double passing».</p>
<p>On the kind of lace you are making, depends
how many pairs of bobbins you will have to use.
But as one part of the lace is often made before the
other, or you have to put on supernumerary bobbins,
you fasten up those not in use on one side with pins,
as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_783">783</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;">
<img src="images/798.jpg" alt="FIG. 784. PASSING WITH TWO PAIRS OF BOBBINS." title="" />
<a name="fig_784" id="fig_784"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 784. Passing with two pairs of bobbins.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Net_pattern_or_ground" id="Net_pattern_or_ground"></a>Net pattern or ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_785">785</a> and <a href="#fig_786">786</a>).—This
consists of half passings, worked in rows to and fro;
the pins are stuck in at the end of each row.</p>
<p>The pattern, fig. <a href="#fig_785">785</a>, is fastened upon the pillow and 6
pins are stuck in at the top, at regular intervals from each
<a name="Page_482" id="Page_482"></a>other; hang one pair of bobbins on every pin and lay the
second bobbin of each pair over its fellow,
so that the threads cross each other.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/799.jpg" alt="FIG. 785. PATTERN FOR NET PASSINGS." title="" />
<a name="fig_785" id="fig_785"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 785. Pattern for net passings.</span>
</div>
<p>1 half passing with the 1st and 2nd
pair = lay the 1st pair aside = 1 half
passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair =
lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half passing
with the 3rd and 4th pair = lay the
3rd pair aside = 1 half passing with the
4th and 5th pair = lay the 4th pair
aside = 1 half passing with the 5th and
6th pair = stick in a pin at point 2,
then work back from right to left =
surround the pin with a half passing
made with the 5th and 6th pair = lay
the 6th pair aside = 1 half passing with
the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th pair
aside = 1 half passing with the 4th and
3rd pairs = lay the 4th pair aside = 1
half passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair =
lay the 3rd pair aside = 1 half passing
with the 2nd and 1st pair = stick in a
pin at point 3 and repeat from the beginning.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_786">786</a> shows the net ground completed;
the thread that runs to and fro,
to make it more clear, is represented in
a darker shade than the others.</p>
<p>Before proceeding further, it is as well
to prepare our readers for the many
trials they will have to make, even with
the help of the most minute explanations,
before they succeed in carrying out the
directions; for the whole art of making
pillow lace lies in a manual dexterity,
only attainable by practice.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/800.jpg" alt="FIG. 786. NET GROUND. COMPLETED." title="" />
<a name="fig_786" id="fig_786"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 786. Net ground. Completed.</span>
</div>
<p>Even copying the patterns from description
is only possible at first in a qua<a name="Page_483" id="Page_483"></a>lified
sense; the surest way of attaining a satisfactory result
is by constantly comparing the drawing and the work in progress
and wherever the latter does not correspond with the
former, trying at once to rectify the difference.</p>
<p><b>Linen or cloth ground</b>.—The pattern used for net passing
can also be used for linen passing or ground but 7 pins, instead of
6, have to be stuck in at the top first. As in net passing, you
work first from left to right,
running 2 threads to and fro
in perfectly horizontal lines, so
as to produce a ground resembling
linen in its texture.</p>
<p>The threads that run to and
fro are held at the edge with
pins and changed by a half
passing, so that the one that
was first in going, is first also in returning.</p>
<p>The use of the machine for crossing the threads is especially
to be recommended in working linen ground; by pressing the
short branches of the machine, the position of the threads is
changed and the bobbin is pushed through; by a second pressure
the second bobbin is driven through, the pin is stuck in
<a name="Page_484" id="Page_484"></a>for the picot or the cord, when the bobbins are taken back
again, four movements being thus all that is required.</p>
<p><b>Plain hole ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_787">787</a> and <a href="#fig_788">788</a>).—Hole ground can
be worked in various ways; we will begin by describing the plain
hole ground, which as a rule forms the ground of all torchon
laces. After fixing the pattern, as represented in fig. <a href="#fig_787">787</a>, upon
the pillow, stick in 5 pins, hang 2 pairs of bobbins on to
each and throw the 2nd bobbin of each pair over its fellow
= 1 half passing with the 2nd
and 3rd pairs = put up a pin at
point 1 = 1 half passing with
the same pair = this encloses
the pin = lay the 3rd pair aside
= 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a pin at
point 2 = enclose it with the same pairs = 1 half passing with
the 5th and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose it
with the same pairs = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 half passing
<a name="Page_485" id="Page_485"></a>the 4th and 3rd pair = put up the pin at point 4 =
enclose the same = lay the 4th
pair aside = work on in the
same way over points 5 and 6 =
1 half passing with the 6th and
7th pair = put up the pin at
point 7 = enclose the same =
work on in the same way over
points 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 = 1
half passing with the 8th and 9th
pair = put up the pin at point 31
= enclose the same = work on
over points 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19
and 20 = 1 half passing with the
9th and 10th pair = put up the
pin at point 21 = enclose the same
and proceed as in the preceding
rows, from point 22 to 29.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/801.jpg" alt="FIG. 787. PATTERN FOR PLAIN HOLE GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_787" id="fig_787"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 787. Pattern for plain hole ground.</span>
</div>
<p>Hole ground with twisted thread
is made in the same way we have
just been describing, only that
after every half passing enclosing
the pin, each pair of bobbins is
twisted once. A ground which is
worked in this way is stronger than
the other. Twisted hole ground is
seen again in figs. <a href="#fig_792">792</a> and <a href="#fig_794">794</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/802.jpg" alt="FIG. 788. PLAIN HOLE GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_788" id="fig_788"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 788. Plain hole ground.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Wheels in hole ground</b> (figs.
<a href="#fig_789">789</a> and <a href="#fig_790">790</a>).—For the wheels,
which are often worked on pillow-made
grounds, 4, 6, 8 pairs of
bobbins, sometimes even more are
used (see likewise fig. <a href="#fig_801">801</a>).</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/803.jpg" alt="FIG. 789. WHEEL BEGUN IN HOLE GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_789" id="fig_789"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 789. Wheel begun in hole ground.</span>
</div>
<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_789">789</a>, the wheel is worked
with the 4 middle pairs of bobbins.
Each pair has first to be
twisted once = 1 linen passing with
the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside
<a name="Page_486" id="Page_486"></a>the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 4th pair =
lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and 3rd pair
= lay aside the 4th pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd
pair = put up the pin at the next point and between the 2nd
and 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair =
lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 1st
pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and
3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 linen passing with the
3rd and 2nd pair = the last passing completes the wheel, such
as it is represented in fig. <a href="#fig_790">790</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/804.jpg" alt="FIG. 790. WHEEL IN HOLE GROUND COMPLETED." title="" />
<a name="fig_790" id="fig_790"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 790. Wheel in hole ground completed.</span>
</div>
<p>Twist the pairs of bobbins again as you did before beginning
the wheel and then proceed with the plain ground.</p>
<p><b>Rose ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_791">791</a> and <a href="#fig_792">792</a>).—After preparing the
pattern, as in fig. <a href="#fig_791">791</a>, put up pins at <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i>, <i>e</i>, <i>f</i>, <i>g</i>, <i>h</i> and <i>i</i>
and hang on 2 pairs of bobbins to the first pin, and one pair
to each of the other 8 = 1 half passing with the 1st and 2nd pair
= twist each pair once = take out the pin at point <i>a</i> and put
it up again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the
pin with 1 half passing = twist the pair once = lay the 1st pair
aside = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = twist the
pair again = take out the pin at <i>b</i>, put it in again at the same
point between the pair = enclose the pin = twist the pairs
again = lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 3rd
and 4th pair = twist the pair again = take out the needle
at <i>c</i> and put it in again at the same point between the pairs =
enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half passing with
the 3rd and 2nd pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin
at point 1 = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half
passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the pair again =
put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the pin = work point 2 and
1 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = 1 half passing with the 4th and
5th pair = twist the pairs again = take out the pin at <i>d</i> and
put it in again at the same point between the pair = work
point <i>e</i> exactly like point <i>d</i> with the 5th and 6th pair = work
point 4 like point 3 with the 4th and 5th pair = work points
5, 6 and 7 in a slanting direction from right to left = carry
out point 8 with the 5th and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside
= work point 9 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = work point <i>f</i><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487"></a>
like point <i>e</i> with the 6th and
7th pair = work point <i>g</i> like
point <i>f</i> with the 7th and 8th
pair = then work points 10 to
15 with the 6th and 7th pair
= point 16 with the 7th and
6th pair = point 17 with the
5th and 4th pair = point 18
with the 3rd and 2nd pair =
point <i>h</i> like point <i>g</i> with the
8th and 9th pair = point <i>i</i>
with the 9th and 10th pair
= points 19 to 26 with the
9th and 10th pair = point
27 with the 9th and 8th pair
= point 28 with the 7th and
6th pair = point 29 with the
5th and 4th pair = point 30
with the 3rd and 2nd pair.
Proceed in this manner until
the whole ground be finished.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/805.jpg" alt="FIG. 791.
PATTERN FOR ROSE GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_791" id="fig_791"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 791.
Pattern for rose ground.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/806.jpg" alt="FIG. 792. ROSE GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_792" id="fig_792"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 792. Rose ground.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Double or ornamental
ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_793">793</a> and <a href="#fig_794">794</a>).—This
ground should be worked
in a comparatively fine
material; we should recommend
Fil à dentelle D.M.C
Nos. 30 to 100. Put up pins
at points <i>a</i> and <i>g</i> in the pattern
and hang on a pair of
bobbins = put up pins likewise
at <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i>, <i>e</i> and <i>f</i> and
hang on a pair of bobbins to
each = 1 half passing with the
2nd and 3rd pair = take out
the pin at point <i>b</i> and put it
in again between the pair at
the same place = enclose the
<a name="Page_488" id="Page_488"></a>pin with a half passing = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st
pair = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing
with the 4th and 5th pair = take out the pin at point <i>l</i> and
put it in again between the pairs at the same place = enclose
the needle = 1 half passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = put
up a pin at point 2 = enclose the needle = 1 half passing
with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose
the needle = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = 1
half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a needle
at point 4 = enclose the needle = work point <i>d</i> like point <i>c</i>
with the 6th and 7th pair = 1 half passing with the 6th and
5th pair = put up a pin at point 5 = enclose the pin = work
over point <i>e</i> like point <i>d</i> with the 7th and 8th pair = 1 half
passing with the 7th and 6th pair
= put up a pin at point 6 = enclose
the pin = 1 half passing with the
6th and 5th pair = put up a pin
at point 7 = enclose the pin =
1 half passing with the 6th and 7th
pair = lay the 2 pairs aside = 1
half passing with the 5th and 4th
pair, by which the threads are
made to cross each other in the
square = work over point <i>f</i> as
over point <i>e</i> with the 10th and
11th pair = work over points 17
to 19 as over points 5 to 7 =
when the square is finished 1 half
passing with the 10th and 11th
pair = half passings between all
the squares.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/807.jpg" alt="FIG. 793. PATTERN FOR FIG. 794" title="" />
<a name="fig_793" id="fig_793"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 793. Pattern for fig. <a href="#fig_794">794</a></span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/808.jpg" alt="FIG. 794. DOUBLE OR ORNAMENTAL GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_794" id="fig_794"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 794. Double or ornamental ground.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Tulle ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_795">795</a>).—Prepare
your pattern for the
ground represented here on a magnified
scale, by pricking holes at regular distances so as to
form diagonal lines intersecting each other, as shown in the
engraving, and set more or less closely together, according to
the thickness of the thread you use.</p><p><a name="Page_489" id="Page_489"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/809.jpg" alt="FIG. 795. TULLE GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_795" id="fig_795"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 795. Tulle ground.</span>
</div>
<p>1 half passing = put up the pin at the next point, twist both
pairs twice, but without enclosing the pin, and pass the inner
left thread over the inner left one = twist the two pairs again
= cross as before and so on.</p>
<p><b>Valenciennes ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_796">796</a>).—The Valenciennes
ground is formed of little plaits for which 2 pairs of bobbins
are used. These plaits are often used in other kinds
of lace as well, as may be seen for instance in figs. <a href="#fig_801">801</a>, <a href="#fig_802">802</a>
and <a href="#fig_806">806</a> which are not Valenciennes patterns.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/810.jpg" alt="FIG. 796. VALENCIENNES GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_796" id="fig_796"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 796. Valenciennes ground.</span>
</div>
<p>According to the size of the squares the plaits are made with
either 4, 6 or 8 half passings, 2 pairs of bobbins being invariably
used. The plaits are joined by a half passing, made with the last
pair of the left plait and the first of the right = stick the pin
into the hole = enclose the pin by a half passing and work the
next plait on the left with the two left pairs and the next plait
on the right with the two right pairs.</p>
<p><b>Brussels ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_797">797</a>).—For the sake of greater clearness,
this ground too has been worked and reproduced here on
a magnified scale.</p><p><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/811.jpg" alt="FIG. 797. BRUSSELS GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_797" id="fig_797"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 797. Brussels ground.</span>
</div>
<p>It is worked in diagonal lines, as follows: 1 double passing
with 2 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at the next point = enclose
the pin with a double passing, twist both pairs each time
once and so on. This ground, when it is worked by the hand
in very fine thread, takes a long time to do and is therefore
often made by machinery.</p>
<p><b>Eternelle with two rows of holes</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_798">798</a>).—The so-called
«eternelle» laces have no definite
pattern; they can be made of
any width, in the form of insertions
or edgings.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/811a.jpg" alt="FIG. 798. ETERNELLE WITH TWO ROWS OF HOLES." title="" />
<a name="fig_798" id="fig_798"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 798. Eternelle with two rows of holes.</span>
</div>
<p>For a single row of holes, you
want 6 pairs of bobbins; for two
rows, 7; for three, 9, adding two
pairs of bobbins for every additional
row of holes. The upper part of fig. <a href="#fig_798">798</a> shows how the points are distributed;
here 7 pairs of bobbins are
used.</p>
<p>Put up a pin at the topmost
point = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins
= 1 double passing = take out the
pin and put it in again between the
two pairs = tighten the pair = hang
on 1 pair of bobbins again on the left
= 1 double passing with the 1st pair
of the bobbins you hung on first and
with the new pair = push the double
passing close to the pin = twist the
first pair once and then lay it aside
= 1 double passing with the 2nd and
3rd pair that enclose the pin = hang
on 2 pairs of bobbins in the middle
= 1 double passing with both pairs
= lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double
passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1
double passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair
once and lay it aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd
<a name="Page_491" id="Page_491"></a>pair that enclose the pin = put up 1 pin at the 3rd lower point,
hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing with these bobbins =
lay the 7th pair aside = * 1 double passing with the 6th
and 5th pair = lay the 6th pair aside = 1 double passing with
the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th
pair aside = 1 double passing with
the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th
pair aside = 1 double passing with
the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin
at the next point = 1 double passing
with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist
the 1st pair once = 1 double passing
with the 2nd and 3rd pair, to enclose
the pin = lay the 3 first pairs
aside = 1 double stitch with the 4th
and 5th pair = lay the last two
pairs aside = 1 double passing with
the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin
at the next point = enclose the pin
with the last pairs = repeat from *.</p>
<p><b>Lace with torchon ground and
edge in net ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_799">799</a>).—Worked
with 10 pairs of bobbins.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/811b.jpg" alt="FIG. 799.
LACE WITH TORCHON GROUND AND
EDGE IN NET GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_799" id="fig_799"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 799.<br />
Lace with torchon ground and
edge in net ground.<br />
Materials:</span> Fil à pointer D.M.C
No. 30. Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 20 to 100, or Fil à dentelle
D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150, white
or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Put up a pin at * = make net
passings, fig. <a href="#fig_786">786</a>, to point 1 = put
up a pin at point 1 = enclose the
pin with the two last pairs on the
right = net passings to point 2 = put
up a pin at point 2 = lay one pair
of bobbins aside = net passings to
point 3 = put up a pin at point 3 =
enclose the pin = net passings to
point 4 = put up a pin at point 4
= lay one pair of bobbins aside =
net passings to point 5 = put up a
pin at point 5 = net passings, back
<a name="Page_492" id="Page_492"></a>to point 6 = put up a pin at point 6 = take up the bobbins
on the left again = 1 half passing with the 1st pair on
the left = put up a pin at point 7 = work the torchon ground,
at the top of the lace, as in fig. <a href="#fig_788">788</a>, with the 2nd and
3rd pair = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = put
up a pin at point 8 = twist the 1st and 2nd pair = 1 double
passing with the 1st and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 9
= 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = lay the 2nd
pair aside = make hole or torchon stitch, fig. <a href="#fig_788">788</a>, with the
3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 10 = work on to
point 11 in hole ground = put up a pin at point 11 = cross the
1st and 2nd pair on the left = put up a pin at point 12 = enclose
the pin = lay 5 pairs of bobbins aside on the left = take
up 5 pairs on the right = put up a pin at point 13 = net
passings with the 5 pairs on the right = take up, in addition, the
6th pair on the left = hole ground with the 5th and 6th pair
= put up a pin at point 14 = net passings to point 15 with 5
pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 15 = net passings
with 6 pairs of bobbins = take up a 7th pair of bobbins in
addition = hole ground with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a
pin at point 16 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up
a pin at point 17 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put
up a pin at point 18 and then repeat from the first point * on
the left.</p>
<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_800">800</a>, <a href="#fig_801">801</a>, <a href="#fig_802">802</a>).—We here give as an
example the same pattern of lace worked in two thicknesses
of thread; fig. <a href="#fig_801">801</a> in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, fig. <a href="#fig_802">802</a> in Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, which is of course much
thicker. As this pattern is especially suitable for trimming
household articles, made of unbleached linen, such for
instance as table-covers, curtains and hangings of all kinds, we
prefer it made in the thicker thread; even then it looks very
well as a trimming for articles of dress.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_812.jpg"><img src="images/812.jpg" alt="FIG. 800. PATTERN FOR THE PILLOW LACE FIGS. 801 AND 802." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_800" id="fig_800"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 800. Pattern for the pillow lace figs. <a href="#fig_801">801</a> and <a href="#fig_802">802</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>It is worked with 40 pairs of bobbins = hang them on one
after the other in a row = put up a pin at point 1 = twisted
linen passing = work all the pairs to point 2 with linen passing<a name="Page_493" id="Page_493"></a>
= put up the pin at the last pair = go back through 3 pairs
with linen passing = twist 2 pairs once = go back with linen
passing through all the pairs to point 3 = twist each pair separately =
at point 4 twist the 2 pairs and put up the pin =
twist the last pair twice and so on and coming back to point
5 = put up the pin = come back again to point 6 = return
to point 7 = put up the pins at the two points.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<a href="images/full_813.jpg"><img src="images/813.jpg" alt="FIG. 801. PILLOW LACE." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_801" id="fig_801"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 801. Pillow lace.<br />
Material:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Divide the 30 other pairs into twos = put up a pin between
every set of two pairs = linen passing. The ground is all
worked alike: twist the pairs twice = linen passing = put up the
pins = linen passing to points 6 and 7 = twist the threads in
taking them through = make a plait, fig. <a href="#fig_796">796</a>, for the scallop
point 8 = put up a pin at the point marked for the picot = pass
the thread of the outside bobbin from right to left, round the
pin, to form the picot = continue the plait to the next picot =
put up a pin = form the picot = continue the plait to point 9
= connect the plait with the bobbins of points 9 and 7 = make
4 linen passings with 3 pairs = continue the plait = carry the
last pair to point 10 = twist the threads = make 1 linen passing
= put up a pin and enclose it = go on in this manner to point<a name="Page_494" id="Page_494"></a>
12 = make the wheel, as
in figs. <a href="#fig_789">789</a> and <a href="#fig_790">790</a>, with
6 pairs of bobbins, hanging
on 4 new pairs at point
12 = work with twisted
linen passing = twist the 4
pairs once and cross with
linen passing = take the
last pair out from the middle
to point 13, join it to
the first pair of the scallop
= make all the wheels
before continuing the
ground = then go back
from point 13 to 14 =
cross the pairs again =
at point 12 twist 4 pairs
= 2 twisted linen passings
right and left with the bobbins
of points 14 and 15
= 1 twisted linen passing =
put up the pins and work
all the spiders alike.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<a href="images/full_814.jpg"><img src="images/814.jpg" alt="FIG. 802. PILLOW LACE." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_802" id="fig_802"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 802. Pillow lace.<br />
Material:</span> Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><b>Pillow lace insertion</b>
(figs. <a href="#fig_803">803</a> and <a href="#fig_804">804</a>).—Hang
on 12 pairs of bobbins.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_815.jpg"><img src="images/815.jpg" alt="FIG. 803. PATTERN FOR PILLOW LACE INSERTION FIG. 804." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_803" id="fig_803"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 803. Pattern for pillow lace insertion fig. <a href="#fig_804">804</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>Divide the bobbins and
put 2 pairs at point 1 =
put up a pin = twist once
= 2 linen passings = from
point 2 to point 8 = 5
twisted linen passings =
add one pair of bobbins =
put up a pin = add one
pair of bobbins = put up
a pin = lay one pair of
<a name="Page_495" id="Page_495"></a>bobbins aside = twist = 2
linen passings = 5 twisted
linen passings to point 10
= 2 linen passings = twist
the 2 last pairs = go back
with linen passing through
2 pairs = join together with
the two pairs and the first
pair by means of a twisted
stitch = put up the pin =
lozenge stitch (for lozenge
stitch in which the lozenges
or close leaves are made,
you take 4 or 6 threads;
in the execution it resembles
the darning stitch represented
in figs. <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_646">646</a> and
<a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_647">647</a>) to point 11 = twist at
point 12 = take 2 pairs
from point 10 = plait to
point 13 = twist with the
bobbins of point 1 = double
passing = plait on the
right, twist on the left =
put up the pin = tie up as
described.</p>
<p>Take the second pair at
points 13 and 15 = put up
the pin = 2 twisted double
passings on the right = 2
linen passings = twist the
2 latter = put up the pin
= at point 16 lay one pair
of bobbins aside = with
simple passing go back
through 2 linen passings =<a name="Page_496" id="Page_496"></a>
join the latter and the former with linen passing = put up the
pin at point 17 = lozenge stitch with the bobbins of points 15
and 17 to point 18 = connect the same at point 11 = carry on
the lozenge stitch to points 19, 20 and 21 = put up a pin at
each number and enclose with a linen passing = with the first
pair of bobbins of point 21, 2 linen passings to the left and 2
twisted linen passings, that is to say, crossing the threads =
put up the pin at point 22.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/816.jpg" alt="FIG. 804. PILLOW LACE INSERTION." title="" />
<a name="fig_804" id="fig_804"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 804. Pillow lace insertion.<br />
Materials</span>: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C
Nos. 25 to 100.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Twist the threads from point 16 to point 23 = make a plait
from point 15 to point 23 = then join the two parts together
by half passings = put up a pin = twist the threads and make
plaits to point 24 = join the threads as at point 23.</p>
<p>On the left and with the first pair of point 19, 2 linen
passings = with the 2 latter 1 twisted passing = put up the
pin at point 25 = returning, 2 linen passings to point 26 = 2
linen passings to the left = with the 2 latter pairs 2 double
passings and put up the pin.</p>
<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_805">805</a> and <a href="#fig_806">806</a>).—Hang on 14 pairs of bobbins.</p><p><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<a href="images/full_817.jpg"><img src="images/817.jpg" alt="FIG. 805. PATTERN FOR PILLOW LACE FIG. 806." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_805" id="fig_805"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 805. Pattern for pillow lace fig. <a href="#fig_806">806</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>These are divided into 3 groups = 3 pairs at point 1 = put
up a pin = twisted linen passing = twist both pairs once = put up
the pin at point 3 = add on 5 pairs at point 2 = put up the
pin = go back through 3 pairs = twist the 2 last pairs = linen
passing = put up the pin at point 3 = twist both pairs = linen
passings, as seen in the illustration, to the right and left as far as
point 11 = at point 13 intervert 6 pairs by a twisted linen passing
= make a plait at point 14 = put up a pin in the middle of the
same = pass through 2 pairs of bobbins with twisted linen passing
= put 1 pair of bobbins aside at point 22 = put up a pin at the
2 first pairs at point 15 = work the leaf in lozenge stitch<a name="Page_498" id="Page_498"></a>
= put up a pin at point 16 near the first pair = twist both
pairs once = linen passing = put up the pin at point 17 = go
back in the same manner = work on in the same way to point
21 = put up the pin at point 22 = twisted linen passing to point
11 = tie up the first pair of the scallop with the bobbins of
point 11 = bring the last pair back and work as at point 1 = then
repeat and proceed in the same way to point 27 = twist
the 2 pairs up to point 26 = put up the pin = make one
lozenge stitch and join the plait, stitch to point 28 = continue
the lozenge stitch to point 29 = join the bobbins of point 29
to those of point 21 by a plait = put up the pin = linen passing
= twist the two last pairs once = put up the pin = linen passing
= put up the pin at point 31 = twist both pairs once = 2 linen
passings = put up the pin at point 82 = 2 linen passings = tie
up the bobbins of point 33 with those of point 29 = plait
stitch = put up the pin = join to point 34 with lozenge stitch
= with the bobbins at point 28 make lozenge stitch to point
27 = put up a pin = twist 3 pairs once = make 2 linen passings
= join with linen passing = continue the scallop according to
the preceding description, from point 27 to point 35.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/818.jpg" alt="FIG. 806. PILLOW LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_806" id="fig_806"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 806. Pillow lace.
<br />
Material:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>At point 34 make a leaf in lozenge stitch = put up the
pin = continue from point 33 to point 36 with twisted linen
passings = carry the first pair of bobbins of the lozenge to point
35 by means of 2 twisted linen passings = put up a pin in the
middle of the 2 pairs = make a plait to point 37 = cross the
pairs again as at point 13, in the beginning.</p>
<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_807">807</a> and <a href="#fig_808">808</a>).—Worked with 30 pairs of
bobbins.—These are divided: 14 pairs at point 1 = put up a
pin on the left and right = with the last pairs make plaits to
point 12 = add 2 pairs = make a double passing as for a plait
= put up a pin in the middle of the pairs = plait with 2 pairs
of bobbins to point 3 = add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a
double passing as for the plait = put up a pin in the middle of
the pairs = then go on in the same manner to point 4 = add
4 pairs of bobbins = put up the pin = at point 5, add 2 pairs
of bobbins = make a plait = put up a pin and join to point 4
by a double passing.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
<a name="fig_807" id="fig_807"></a><a name="fig_808" id="fig_808"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
<a href="./images/full_819.jpg"><img src="images/819.jpg" alt="FIG. 807.
PATTERN FOR PILLOW LACE FIG. 808." title="" /></a>
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 807.
Pattern for pillow lace fig. <a href="#fig_808">808</a>.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/820.jpg" alt="FIG. 808. PILLOW LACE." title="" />
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 808. Pillow lace.
<br />
Material:</span> Fil à dentelle D.M.C
No. 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div></div>
<p>At point 1, lay the two last pairs to the right = put up a
<a name="Page_499" id="Page_499"></a>pin = make a plait to point 6 = add 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double
passing = put up a pin = make a plait to point 7 with a pairs
of bobbins = add 2 pairs of
bobbins = 1 double passing = put
up the pin = make a plait to point 8 = add 4 pairs of bobbins
= 5 linen passings = put up a pin at the last passing = at
point 9 add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a plait = put up a pin = join
to point 8 with linen passing = make plaits from point 9 to
point 10 = put up a pin = leave the pairs hanging = 5 linen
<a name="Page_500" id="Page_500"></a>passings with the bobbins of point 10 = put up the pin at point
11 = go back to point 10 with 5 passings = put up the pin =
make a plait and tie up the bobbins at point 6 = leave these
bobbins hanging down.</p>
<p>With the two first pairs at point 11, make a plait to point
12 = 1 linen passing at point 7 and join to point 12 by a plait = plait
stitch = put up a pin = then plait stitch to point 13
and make the same connection as at points 12 and 7 = continue
to plait to point 14 = put up the pin at the first pair =
7 linen passings = leave these bobbins hanging down = tie up
the plait of point 5 with the 1st pair of point 4 = make a plait
on the left = put up a pin at point 15 = make 5 linen passings
on the right and put up the pin at point 16 = make a plait to
point 17 = make the same connection as at point 7 and 12 = the
same connection also at point 18 = make a plait to point
19 = put up the pin = make a plaited lozenge with one pair = leave
2 pairs hanging at point 20, left and right = continue
to point 21 = leave 2 pairs hanging, left and right = make a
plait to point 22 = begin again at point 17 and make a leaf in
lozenge stitch to point 23 = make a second leaf from point 16 to
point 23 = join the leaves at point 23 = make a plait with the
first pair of point 16 to point 24 = put up a pin = enclose it
with a double passing and make a plait = tie up the bobbins at
point 15 = continue the edge to point 26 = make a leaf in
lozenge stitch from point 32 to point 26 = tie up the bobbins
at point 26 and make linen passings with the united bobbins to
point 27 = with the bobbins of point 18 and point 20, therefore
with 4 pairs, make a square in lozenge stitch = join the
3 leaves at point 23 = from point 23 to point 28 make a plait
with the two first pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 28 = make
a plait with picots to point 29 = lozenge stitch from
point 32 to point 22 and point 33 = join to point 30 by a plait = plait
to point 22 = work from point 34 to 35 in the same
way as from point 1 to point 33 = at point 22 and point 35
the pairs cross each other.</p>
<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_809">809</a> and <a href="#fig_810">810</a>).—Hang on 28 pairs of
bobbins. Begin at point 1 with a plait, fig. <a href="#fig_790">790</a> = put up a
pin = * hang on 5 pairs at point 2 and put up a pin at the last
<a name="Page_501" id="Page_501"></a>pair = with the last pair make a plait to point 3 * = hang on
a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1
linen passing = hang on 3 pairs of bobbins = 1 linen
passing = 3 linen passings = put up a pin = 1 leaf in lozenge
stitch to point 4 = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 2 plait stitches = put
up a pin = make a leaf to point 5 = hang on 2 pairs of
bobbins = 1 plait stitch = put up a pin = repeat in the reverse
order to point 3.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
<a name="fig_809" id="fig_809"></a><a name="fig_810" id="fig_810"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 350px;">
<a href="./images/full_821.jpg"><img src="images/821.jpg" alt="FIG. 809. PATTERN FOR THE LACE FIG. 810." title="" /></a>
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 809. Pattern for the lace fig. <a href="#fig_810">810</a>.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/822.jpg" alt="FIG. 810. PILLOW LACE." title="" />
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 810. Pillow lace.<br />
Material:</span> Fil à dentelle D.M.C
No. 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
</div>
<p><a name="Page_502" id="Page_502"></a></p>
<p>Put up a pin at point 9 = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1
linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing =
hang on a pair of bobbins = make a plait to point 11 = put
up a pin = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins at point 12 = make a
plait and tie the threads together with those of point 11 = on
the left with 2 pairs, on the right with 3 pairs to point 13
for the edge = put up 2 pins and continue the edge with
linen passings to point 14.</p>
<p>Return to point 15 and make a plait = put up a pin
= divide the bobbins and put one pair on the right, the other
on the left = take the bobbins at point 5 and 7 and make
plaits to points 16 and 17 = make linen passings with the two
pairs to point 18 = put up a pin and make a plait to point 21.</p>
<p>Make leaves in lozenge stitch from points 4 and 8 to points
19 and 20 = one leaf from point 16 to point 19 = make another
leaf to point 22 and one to point 21 = make the same leaves
on the left to points 20, 21 and 23 = cross the bobbins
at point 21 = make leaves from point 21 to points 24, 26
and 26.</p>
<p>Make lozenge stitch with picots, with 3 pairs of bobbins
from points 9 and 10 to point 22 = join the bobbins to leaf
22 = carry on the braid to point 26 = join 2 pairs of bobbins
to the leaf = leave the 2 pairs at point 28 hanging down =
carry on the braid to point 25.</p>
<p>Make a leaf at point 27 to point 14 = tie the threads together
as at point 10 = carry on the edge to point 29 = put
up a pin = make a plait with picots to point 30 = tie up the
threads with those of leaf 28 = make a leaf to point 31 = introduce
the threads into the edge = put up a pin = tie the
threads together.</p>
<p>Make a plait on the left = leave 4 pairs of bobbins hanging
down on the right, 2 pairs for the plait and 2 for the leaf =
carry on the edge to point 32 = leave 2 pairs hanging for
another leaf = continue the edge to point 33. Make a plait
from point 21 to point 34.</p>
<p>Begin again on the left at points 1 and 2 and work, as on
the right, to point 35 = cross the threads at point 25 = linen
passing = distribute the pairs to point 36 = 2 pairs at point 37<a name="Page_503" id="Page_503"></a>
= 2 at point 38 = 3 pairs at point 34 = plait to point 37 =
join to point 38 = continue the plait and join to points 36, 35,
39 = at points 35, 36, 37 lozenge stitch with every 2 pairs of
bobbins to point 40 = then join the next 6 pairs together =
and work on with lozenge stitch to point 41 = work exactly
in the same manner at points 31, 32, 34, 35, 39, 42 as at
points 36, 37, 38, 40 to 41 = at point 41, all the threads are
interwoven, and then divided into 3 sets = continue the
leaves to points 45, 46 and 47. Then repeat in the reverse
order from points 31, 38, 25, 32 and 39.</p>
<p><b><a name="Armenian_lace" id="Armenian_lace"></a>Armenian lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_811">811</a> and <a href="#fig_812">812</a>).—The dresses of the
Turkish women are often
ornamented with flowers
and leaves, executed in
needlework which take the
place of fringe and braid
trimmings and are often
even employed as adornments
for the neck and
arms instead of necklets
and bracelets in metal
work; though, as such,
they do not always accord
with our Western
notions of good taste,
the Armenian work
is in itself, both sufficiently
interesting
and easy of execution,
to deserve description
here amongst
other kinds
of needlework that
are adaptable to use.
It may be imitated
with capital effect in strong stiff washing materials, such as those
<a name="Page_504" id="Page_504"></a>indicated in our illustration, either upon a linen or cotton
foundation or upon plush or silk.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/823.jpg" alt="FIG. 811. ARMENIAN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_811" id="fig_811"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 811. Armenian lace.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30,
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 40 or
Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Écru and Brun-Caroubier 303.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>The thread is first drawn into the edge of the stuff; you then
carry it from right to left, determine the length of the squares,
and working from left to right make on this first thread as
many knots as you have room for.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_812">812</a> shows the formation of the knot, the manner in
which the thread, passing from left to right, forms a loop, and
how to pass your needle under the straightly extended thread
and through the loop. You leave a space of one or two m/m.
between the knots, according to the thickness of the thread you
are using. Having covered the first thread with knots, you return
to the edge for the next row of knots, but passing your
needle this time under three threads.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/824.jpg" alt="FIG. 812. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 811." title="" />
<a name="fig_812" id="fig_812"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 812. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_811">811</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>The number of knots should be the same in each row,
and the four sides of the square should be all equal.</p>
<p>When the squares are finished they are edged with picots
on the two lower sides, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_812">812</a>.</p>
<p>Thread of two colours was used for fig. <a href="#fig_811">811</a>, the squares being
worked alternately in Écru and Brun-Caroubier and the picots,
all in the latter colour.</p>
<p><b><a name="Lace_and_insertion_in_knotted_stitch" id="Lace_and_insertion_in_knotted_stitch"></a>Lace and insertion in knotted stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_813">813</a>).—Excepting
in the case of the returning thread, the same stitches are
used for the pretty border and insertion given in fig. <a href="#fig_813">813</a>, as
for the Armenian lace.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/825.jpg" alt="FIG. 813. LACE AND INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_813" id="fig_813"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 813. Lace and insertion in knotted stitch.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10
to 25, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Écru and Rouge-Cardinal 46.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>The stitches that form the insertion are attached, on both
sides, to an English braid, something of the nature of Rhodes
linen, which is open-worked before the knotted work upon it
is begun.</p>
<p>As in the preceding figure, two colours are used alternately,
the change from one to the other is distinctly marked
in the engraving.</p>
<p>The outside edge consists of light scallops, formed by
the regular increase and decrease of the stitches. The original
piece of work from which our drawing was taken, forms the
border of a dark blue plush carpet; the red and écru hues
of the lace harmonize exceedingly well with the soft colour
of the plush.</p><p><a name="Page_505" id="Page_505"></a></p>
<p><b>Insertion in knotted stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_814">814</a> and <a href="#fig_815">815</a>).—This
kind of work, similarly composed of knotted stitches, can be
used instead of crochet insertion or single and cut openwork
in linen. It looks exceedingly well as a trimming for bed
and table linen and is executed on foundation threads or cords,
which connect the different figures together, with closely connected
rows of knots between.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/826.jpg" alt="FIG. 814. INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_814" id="fig_814"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 814. Insertion in knotted stitch.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30,
or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/827.jpg" alt="FIG. 815. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 814." title="" />
<a name="fig_815" id="fig_815"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 815. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_814">814</a>.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Insertion in knotted stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_816">816</a> and <a href="#fig_817">817</a>).—The
mode of making the insertion in knotted stitch, which is repre<a name="Page_506" id="Page_506"></a>sented
in the two accompanying engravings, is supposed to be
of Italian origin, but we have met with quite as perfect specimens
of work done in the same way, which were the products
of Persia and Asia Minor. We have called it by the same name
<a name="Page_507" id="Page_507"></a>as the preceding patterns, for even the way in which the stitch
is worked is almost the same. Through some slight difference
however in the interlacing of the threads, shown by the open
loops in fig. <a href="#fig_817">817</a>, the stitches lie closer together and are alike
on both sides of the work.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/828.jpg" alt="FIG. 816. INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_816" id="fig_816"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 816. Insertion in knotted stitch.<br />
Materials</span>: The same as for fig. <a href="#fig_814">814</a>.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><a name="Page_508" id="Page_508"></a></p>
<p>No difficulty will be found in making out the course of the
rows; it is best to begin by the two rows of stitches that
form the perpendicular bars and make the stitches, that compose
the 4 staves between the bars next. For the little picots
see fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_700">700</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/829.jpg" alt="FIG. 817. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 816." title="" />
<a name="fig_817" id="fig_817"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 817. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_816">816</a>.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Lace in knotted stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_818">818</a> and <a href="#fig_819">819</a>).—This charming
little lace, which is of Italian origin, was taken from a
cushion cover, used for church purposes. The stitches, made in
the order indicated in the working detail, fig. <a href="#fig_819">819</a>, are overcast
at the last with a fleecy thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C,
<a name="Page_509" id="Page_509"></a>of a rather sober colour, such for instance as Bleu-Indigo
334, Rouge-Géranium 352, or Jaune-Rouille 363.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a name="fig_818" id="fig_818"></a><a name="fig_819" id="fig_819"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/830.jpg" alt="FIG. 818. LACE IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" />
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 818. Lace in knotted stitch.<br />
Materials</span>: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 10 to 25 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C
Nos. 25 to 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/831.jpg" alt="FIG. 819.
WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 818." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 819.
Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_818">818</a>.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>You overcast the slanting bars and pass over the stitches
that connect the two picots.</p>
<p><b><a name="Reticella_lace" id="Reticella_lace"></a>Reticella lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_820">820</a> and <a href="#fig_821">821</a>).—The Reticella laces
are generally made on a design traced upon parchment, similar
to those required for the laces described later on. But
as the manner of working has been modified in the lace represented
here, we thought it as well to adopt the same simplification,
often used in beautiful pieces of old needlework, which
consists in substituting a braid made upon a pillow, for the
bars made with the needle.</p><p><a name="Page_510" id="Page_510"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/832.jpg" alt="FIG. 820. RETICELLA LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_820" id="fig_820"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 820. Reticella lace.<br />
Materials</span>—For the open-work: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 100,
or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150, white or écru.
For the bars: Lacets superfins D.M.C Nos. 3 to 8.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/833.jpg" alt="FIG. 821. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 820." title="" />
<a name="fig_821" id="fig_821"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 821. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_820">820</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>You begin by laying
and fastening down the
braid by means of very
small stitches upon the
lines of the pattern, which
should be traced upon
black paper; you next
proceed to make the centre
bars, covered with
plain buttonhole stitches,
on which you mount a
row of stitches, like those
of fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_755">755</a>; these are followed
by another bar,
to make which, you pick
up the loop of the stitches
of the preceding row and
by another row like the
second, finished off with
picots, like those illustrated
in fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_700">700</a>. The
bases of the pyramids likewise
consist of bars, buttonholed
on both sides
and edged on the inside
with picots.</p>
<p>The stitches of the
first row should not be
too close together, that
there may be room for
those of the second row
between, as we have already
explained in fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_702">702</a>, in the chapter on
<a href="./chapter_13.html">Irish lace</a>.</p>
<p>The inside of the pyramids
is worked in the
stitch represented in fig.<a name="Page_511" id="Page_511"></a>
<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_755">755</a>, the picots round
them are like the ones
in fig. <a href="./chapter_11.html#fig_599">599</a>.</p>
<p>The lace, represented
in fig. <a href="#fig_820">820</a> in its original
size, was worked in
Fil à dentelle D.M.C No.
80, whilst the second
engraving, representing
the same subject, shows
us how perfectly well it
can also be made in heavier
and coarser materials,
these being in this
instance, Lacets superfins
D.M.C No. 4 and Cordonnet
6 fils D.M.C No. 20.</p>
<p><b><a name="Venetian_laces" id="Venetian_laces"></a>Venetian laces</b> (figs.
<a href="#fig_822">822</a>, <a href="#fig_823">823</a>, <a href="#fig_824">824</a>, <a href="#fig_825">825</a>, <a href="#fig_826">826</a>,
<a href="#fig_827">827</a>, <a href="#fig_828">828</a>).—Under the
name of «Venetian point»
are comprised, not only
certain kinds of pillow
lace, but even more generally,
the beautiful
needle-made lace, the outlines
of which are bordered
with handsome
scallops in high relief.</p>
<p>We shall confine our
attention in the present
instance to the needle-made
Venetian lace as the
other can be learnt without
any great difficulty by
following the instructions
already given for the
making of pillow lace.</p><p><a name="Page_512" id="Page_512"></a></p>
<p>The preparation of the
pattern, in most kinds of
needlework, is a most
important matter and one
requiring the greatest
care, but in the case of
needlemade lace and pillow
lace the processes are
different.</p>
<p>The paper on which
the design is traced must
first be backed or lined
with unglazed black paper
(made specially for
this purpose). Prick holes
all along the lines of the
pattern, at exactly the
same distance from each
other, remove the tracing
and tack the black paper
upon rather coarse linen.</p>
<p>This done, you take
from three to five lengths
of the thread of which
the lace is to be made,
lay them down together
upon the lines marked
by the prickings and secure
them at each hole
by a stitch made over
the threads.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/834.jpg" alt="FIG. 822. VENETIAN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_822" id="fig_822"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 822. Venetian lace.</span>
</div>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_822">822</a>, with the
others of the same series
in their natural size, show
the proper distance that
should be left between
the prickings, and the laying
down of the threads
<a name="Page_513" id="Page_513"></a>begun; whilst in fig. <a href="#fig_823">823</a>, we have the threads laid down
throughout, even for the little eyelet holes, which are to be
openworked afterwards.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/835.jpg" alt="FIG. 823. VENETIAN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_823" id="fig_823"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 823. Venetian lace.</span>
</div>
<p>When all this preliminary work is finished, the pattern is
ready for the lace stitches that are to form the filling in, between
the raised outlines.
In order to keep your
work perfectly clean and
preserve it from unnecessary
contact with your
fingers, cover all those
parts of the pattern you
are not immediately engaged
on, with a piece of
blue paper with a hole,
about the size of a pea,
cut in it. This you move
along as you go, working
only at the part of the
pattern which is visible
through the hole, keeping
all the rest carefully covered
up and sewing paper
over each part as
soon as it is finished;
this should not be removed
until you are ready
to join all the separate
parts together with bars or latticed ground and work the buttonhole
edges.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/836.jpg" alt="FIG. 824. VENETIAN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_824" id="fig_824"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 824. Venetian lace.</span>
</div>
<p>All the different lace stitches that are used as fillings must
be begun and fastened off at the outline threads, which you
must be careful not to drag out of their place.</p>
<p>We again remark, for the benefit of those of our readers
who may not have read the preceding chapter attentively, that
in working all the finer lace stitches, the needle should be held
<a name="Page_514" id="Page_514"></a>with the eye towards the worker and the point turned outwards.
All the inside portions
of the pattern have to
be worked in separately;
(for a choice of stitches to
serve as fillings see figs.
<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_720">720</a> to <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_762">762</a>) until all the
spaces are filled, as represented
in figs. <a href="#fig_825">825</a> and <a href="#fig_826">826</a>.
The stitches should be
selected as far as possible,
to suit the style of the design.
Flowers look best
worked in an open or lattice
stitch, leaves on the
other hand in a thick
close stitch.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/837.jpg" alt="FIG. 825. VENETIAN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_825" id="fig_825"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 825. Venetian lace.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/838.jpg" alt="FIG. 826. VENETIAN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_826" id="fig_826"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 826. Venetian lace.</span>
</div>
<p>When all the insides
are done, the edges and
outlines have to be closely
buttonholed.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/839.jpg" alt="FIG. 827. VENETIAN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_827" id="fig_827"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 827. Venetian lace.</span>
</div>
<p>The old Venetian laces
are bordered with scallops
in high relief, worked over
a thick pad of laid threads,
as described on p. <a href="./chapter_5.html#Page_83">83</a>, fig. <a href="./chapter_5.html#fig_191">191</a>, relating to Venetian
embroidery.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<a name="fig_828" id="fig_828"></a>
<img src="images/840.jpg" alt="Fig. 828. VENETIAN LACE." title="" />
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 828. Venetian lace.<br />
Materials</span>—For the open stitches: Fil à dentelle
D.M.C Nos. 100 to 200.<br />
For the outlining and for the padding: Coton
surfin D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><b>Venetian lace with
net ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_829">829</a>).—The
outlining of the figures
with several strands
of Coton surfin D.M.C,
should, in the case of detached
pieces of lace, be
done at once, but where
the figures are connected
by bars or by a net
<a name="Page_515" id="Page_515"></a>ground as in fig. <a href="#fig_825">825</a>, the buttonholed outlines should be done
last. Thus in making the lace, fig. <a href="#fig_829">829</a>, you should begin by
working all the insides of the flowers and foliage, then the net
ground which may be replaced by bars with picots and then
only proceed to the outside buttonholing and the scallops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<a name="fig_829" id="fig_829"></a>
<img src="images/841.jpg" alt="FIG. 829. VENETIAN LACE WITH NET GROUND." title="" />
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 829. Venetian lace with net ground.
<br />
Materials</span>—For the open stitches: Fil à dentelle
D.M.C Nos. 100 to 200.—For the outlining:
Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.</span>
</div>
<p>As all this kind of lace-work is very laborious and takes a
long time to do, we advise our readers to use thread that is
slightly tinted; in the first place it does not turn yellow as
white thread is liable to do and secondly, being softer and
less twisted it takes every bend and turn more readily than
the stiffer white material does.</p>
<p>Of all the different kinds
of thread, so frequently alluded
to in these pages, the
higher numbers of Fil d'Alsace
D.M.C and Fil à dentelle
D.M.C are the best for the
finer kinds of lace, and they
all have the soft ivory tint,
we so admire in the old
needlework.</p>
<p><b><a name="Spray_in_needle-point" id="Spray_in_needle-point"></a>Spray in needle-point</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_830">830</a>).—Needle-point
lace, also called Brussels lace,
requires the same preparatory
work as Venetian lace;
but it seldom contains such
a variety of stitches and openwork
as the latter.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/842.jpg" alt="FIG. 830. SPRAY IN NEEDLE-POINT." title="" />
<a name="fig_830" id="fig_830"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 830. Spray in needle-point.<br />
Materials</span>—For the open stitches: Fil à
dentelle D.M.C No. 200.—For the outlining:
Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>The flowers are generally
worked in one of the stitches,
represented in figs. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_720">720</a> and
<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_740">740</a>; the outlines are less thickly buttonholed and the stitches,
set everywhere less closely.</p>
<p>Here also, the finished parts should be carefully covered
with paper to keep them from getting soiled.</p>
<p><a name="Page_516" id="Page_516"></a></p>
<p>The needle-point lace designs are ordinarily speaking
more realistic and as regards the composition, less artistic
and severe than the Venetian point ones.</p>
<p>The spray, represented in our engraving, is a specimen of
an ordinary Brussels lace pattern and of the stitches it is
worked in.</p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_15.html">Next Chapter.</a></p>
<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents.</a></p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label"><sup>[A]</sup></span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes
and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div>
</div>
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