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diff --git a/old/20776-h/chapter_14.html b/old/20776-h/chapter_14.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7feebae --- /dev/null +++ b/old/20776-h/chapter_14.html @@ -0,0 +1,1771 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + clear: both; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .caption {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; + position: relative; + bottom: 0.33em; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + + + + +<p><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473"></a></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/787.jpg" alt="VENETIAN LACE OF THE XVI CENTURY." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Venetian lace of the xvi century.</span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> +<h2><a name="Laces_of_different_kinds" id="Laces_of_different_kinds"></a>Laces of different kinds.</h2> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> + + +<p>In general, to the uninitiated, the word «lace» signifies +exclusively the delicate and elaborate fabrics that owe their +origin to Venice and the Netherlands and were thence imported +into other countries. But besides Venetian, French, English, +Chantilly, Brussels, Sedan point, names familiar to every one, +there are all kinds of other laces, likewise of great antiquity, +and named as the above are, after the country they belong to.</p> + +<p>As it would be impossible in these pages to give a comprehensive +account of them all, we have restricted ourselves to +such as seem more especially suited to the amateur, to whom +needlework is a mere recreation and pastime.</p> + +<p>Worked like the above-named entirely with the needle, +but much less elaborate and minute in character and workmanship, +they are quicker and easier to make and we are sure that +by the help of the directions that accompany the illustrations, +any careful worker will be able to imitate them without difficulty.</p> + +<p><b>Materials.</b>—It will be observed that we do not bind ourselves +in the following directions to one size of cotton, that as +in point of fact, one and the same piece of work can be executed +in either fine or coarse cotton, we have only indicated the most +suitable kind of material to use: as for instance for Armenian +<a name="Page_474" id="Page_474"></a>lace, Fil à pointer D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, for +Smyrna or knotted lace, Fil à pointer D.M.C, Cordonnet 6 fils +D.M.C and Fil à dentelle D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, for Reticella and Venetian +lace, Fil d'Alsace D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, for Brussels lace, the finest numbers +of Fil à dentelle and for pillow lace, any one of those +enumerated, excepting Coton à broder surfin.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Materials" id="Materials"></a>Pillow lace and the necessary articles for its manufacture</b>.—Pillow +lace derives its name from the cushion or pillow +on which all bobbin lace is made, which distinguishes it +from point lace, so-called because it consists of «points» or +stitches made with a needle and thread.</p> + +<p>Various articles are required for the making of pillow lace; +in the first place a cushion or pillow, then bobbins and a +winder, parchment patterns, pins and a pricker.</p> + +<p><b>The lace pillow</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_774">774</a>, <a href="#fig_775">775</a>, <a href="#fig_776">776</a>).—The pillows used +for pillow lace are of different kinds and vary in shape with +where the country, +and the manner +in which the lace +is made.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/788.jpg" alt="FIG. 774. THE LACE PILLOW." title="" /> +<a name="fig_774" id="fig_774"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 774. The lace pillow.</span> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_774">774</a> represents +the shape in +use in the mountains +of Bohemia +and Saxony, where +pillow lace has always +been one of +the chief industries +of the inhabitants. +Any one can make +a cushion of this +kind themselves +with a piece of +stuff, 60 c/m. long +and 40 wide. The +long sides are firmly sewn together and the short ones turned +<a name="Page_475" id="Page_475"></a>in with a narrow hem through which you run a cord to draw +them up. A disc of stout cardboard is put inside the case after +you have gathered up the one end; you then stuff the case as +full as possible with bran, sawdust or horsehair, lay a second +disc of cardboard in at the top and draw up the other end.</p> + +<p>These pillows are then put into cardboard boxes with +rather high sides, or into a kind of basket, weighted at the +bottom, to keep it firm and steady. Pillows of this most +primitive kind have the great advantage of being perfectly easy +to make.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_775">775</a> represents a pillow of a more complicated kind, +which can be stood upon the table or mounted on a stand. The +cylinder is movable so that you can go on working without +interruption.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/789.jpg" alt="FIG. 775. PILLOW WITH MOVABLE CYLINDER FOR MAKING LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_775" id="fig_775"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 775. Pillow with movable cylinder for making lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>The whole apparatus consists of a board or stand, 50 c/m. +long and 40 wide, resting upon two transverse pieces of wood, +3½ c/m. high behind and 1 c/m. in front.</p> + +<p>The board should be covered, first with a very thick flannel +or Bath coating and then with a fine dark green flannel or cloth.</p><p><a name="Page_476" id="Page_476"></a></p> + +<p>Two small supports are fixed on to the outside edge of the +stand to hold the cylinder, which consists of two discs that +revolve on a rod about 22 c/m. long.</p> + +<p>This rod should be covered, in the first place with a thick +layer of tow and then with flannel or cloth.</p> + +<p>On the left side of the cylinder is a cog-wheel and a metal +spring is attached to the board, by means of which the wheel +is prevented from turning the wrong way.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_776">776</a> shows how the bobbins are placed upon the pillow. +In Normandy a kind of stuffed box is used instead of a pillow. +The board is 3 c/m. higher behind than in front and is deeply +grooved to hold the cylinder, which is stuffed and shaped like +the one represented in fig. <a href="#fig_775">775</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/790.jpg" alt="FIG. 776. POSITION OF THE BOBBINS AND THE WORK ON THE CUSHION FIG. 775." title="" /> +<a name="fig_776" id="fig_776"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 776. Position of the bobbins and the work on the cushion fig. <a href="#fig_775">775</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p>This cylinder scarcely projects above the stand, a second +groove in the back edge receives the lace as it is worked off the +cylinder.</p> + +<p>The pillows used for Valenciennes lace are of again a different +construction, but as it is not our intention in the present +work to describe the finer kinds of lace it appeared superfluous +to give any illustration of the pillows on which they are made.</p> + +<p><b>The bobbins</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_777">777</a>).—A bobbin is a sort of little wooden +spool with a handle to it; there are several varieties of them +but we have confined ourselves to a representation of the +kind considered best for beginners.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/791.jpg" alt="FIG. 777. THE BOBBIN (Jamnig's patent)." title="" /> +<a name="fig_777" id="fig_777"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 777. The bobbin</span> (Jamnig's patent).</span> +</div> + +<p>As a considerable number are wanted for every pattern and +they are apt to slip about and get entangled in inexperienced +hands, they are now to be had with the handles weighted +with lead to steady them and counteract any independent +motion of their own. We cannot help again laying great stress +on the importance of seeing that the size of the bobbins and +the number of the cotton be well assorted to the kind of lace.</p> + +<p><b>The winder</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_778">778</a>).—Every one who means to take +the work seriously should provide themselves with a winder, +as here represented, which is affixed to a polished wooden stand.</p><p><a name="Page_477" id="Page_477"></a></p> + +<p>This stand has to be firmly screwed to the table and the +bobbin is squeezed in between the two little rods fitted into +the supports at the left end of the stand; one of these rods +serves as the axle to the little wheel, the other can be drawn +in and out and fitted to the length of the bobbin.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/792.jpg" alt="FIG. 778. THE WINDER (Jamnig's patent)." title="" /> +<a name="fig_778" id="fig_778"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 778. The winder</span> (Jamnig's patent).</span> +</div> + +<p>When the bobbin is fixed in its place, you take the thread +in the left hand and wind it round it, turning the wheel with +the right hand from right to left in the direction indicated by +the arrow.</p> + +<p>The thread is wound round the handles of the bobbins that +are used for making very fine lace, and a wooden shield that is so +contrived that you can slip it over the handle prevents the thread +from getting soiled.</p> + +<p><b>Stoppage of the thread +at the end of the bobbin</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_779">779</a>).—After cutting +off the thread, you make a +loop close to the top of the +bobbin to prevent it from +unwinding too easily. This +loop is formed by taking the bobbin in the right hand, the +thread between the fourth and fifth fingers of the left hand +<a name="Page_478" id="Page_478"></a>and laying it away from you round the left thumb; then lifting +up the bottom thread with the second finger of the left hand +you pass the bobbin upwards from below through the loop on +the left hand.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 375px;"> +<img src="images/793.jpg" alt="FIG. 779. STOPPAGE OF THE THREAD AT THE END OF THE BOBBIN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_779" id="fig_779"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 779. Stoppage of the thread at the end of the bobbin.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Machine for crossing the threads</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_780">780</a>).—This ingenious +little machine is of great assistance in making straight +running patterns and Irish lace braids, and is particularly +useful for Russian lace and braid lace of all kinds.</p> + +<p>It renders the even crossing of the threads in those parts +of a pattern that imitate linen in texture comparatively easy.</p> + +<p>Two implements +like combs, fitting +into one another, and +movable, are mounted +at two thirds of +their length on a steel +axle. The long teeth +have holes bored +through the ends, +from the sides to +the middle of the +points and through +these holes the +threads from the bobbins are passed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<img src="images/794.jpg" alt="FIG. 780. MACHINE FOR CROSSING THE THREADS (Jamnig's patent)." title="" /> +<a name="fig_780" id="fig_780"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 780. Machine for crossing the threads</span> (Jamnig's patent).</span> +</div> + +<p>The short teeth also are pierced with transverse holes, +through which a needle with the threads threaded in the long +teeth resting upon it, is passed. The points of the short teeth +are covered with a hollow metal cylinder, split through from +end to end, which can be removed when new threads have to +be added.</p> + +<p>When the threads are all on, a small spring is fixed to the +two ends of the axle, which is independent of the machine, and +the two ends of the spring are introduced into the hollow of +the cylinder.</p> + +<p>By the pressure you exercise on the teeth in the cylinder, +the long teeth change their position, the lower ones rise and +the upper ones fall and the threads cross each other, as in a loom. +After each movement of the machine, the bobbin that makes +<a name="Page_479" id="Page_479"></a>the woof must be passed between the crossed threads; the +edges are made like those of any other kind of lace.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_781">781</a> explains how the bobbins are passed between the +threads that are held between the teeth of the machine.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/795.jpg" alt="FIG. 781. PASSAGE OF THE BOBBINS THROUGH THE MACHINE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_781" id="fig_781"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 781. Passage of the bobbins through the machine.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>The pattern</b>.—The pattern is one of the most important +things in making pillow lace.</p> + +<p>The outlines must be clear and exact, as upon that in +great measure the perfection of the lace depends.</p> + +<p>The drawing transferred to parchment, paper or cardboard, +usually of a yellowish tint, should be lined with a very thin +stuff such as muslin to prevent its tearing.</p> + +<p>A stripe of quadrille, or point paper as it is called, should +be laid upon the pattern and then holes pricked with a medium-sized +needle at every intersection of the lines.</p> + +<p>All the curved long lines of the pattern must first be traced +upon the point paper with ink and then pricked.</p><p><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480"></a></p> + +<p>The pattern should be adapted to the thickness of the +thread the lace is to be made of; for a coarse lace large point +paper should be used and small, for the finer kinds of lace. +The pricking of the pattern beforehand is particularly important +in the case of the common torchon lace, where the real +beauty of the design consists in its regularity; in the case of +fine close patterns the pricking can only be done as you +proceed.</p> + +<p>Prickers and holders of the kind represented in fig. <a href="#fig_782">782</a> or +very much resembling it, are to be had at every stationer's shop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/796.jpg" alt="FIG. 782. PRICKER AND HOLDER." title="" /> +<a name="fig_782" id="fig_782"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 782. Pricker and holder.</span> +</div> + +<p>The holes made by the prickers are to receive the pins, +stuck in as you go along, round which you form and by which +these are kept in their place.</p> + +<p>The pins must be long, with round heads and of a size +suited to the thread. When your pattern is ready fasten it to +the pillow or cylinder as the case may be, stretching it as +smoothly as possible and being careful in so doing to fit the +lines of the pattern together. If it be too long it must be cut +to the required length or you may make the cylinder bigger +by wrapping several folds of flannel round it.</p><p><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481"></a></p> + +<p>The value of lace depends not only on the work but on +the thread it is made of; all the D.M.C cottons<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> can be recommended +for lace-making and coloured laces of all kinds +are greatly improved by the addition of a little Chiné d'or +D.M.C or Or fin D.M.C pour la broderie.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<p><b><a name="Position_and_movements_of_the_hands" id="Position_and_movements_of_the_hands"></a>Position and movements of the hands</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_783">783</a>).—Pillow +lace is always made with two pairs of bobbins at once +and the «stitches» are formed by the different ways of passing, +plaiting, crossing and twisting the threads.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/797.jpg" alt="FIG. 783. POSITION AND MOVEMENTS OF THE HANDS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_783" id="fig_783"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 783. Position and movements of the hands.</span> +</div> + +<p>To begin with the simplest operation, making a plait, hang +2 pairs of bobbins to a pin, take 2 bobbins in each hand and +lay the right bobbin of each pair over its left fellow and draw +up the threads slightly. Then take the bobbins in the 2nd, 3rd +and 4th fingers of the right hand and with the same +fingers of the left, lay the 2nd bobbin over the 3rd +with the 2nd and 3rd fingers of the left, so that +the two middle bobbins are crossed, then take the +4th bobbin in the 2nd and 3rd fingers of the right +hand and the bobbin that is now the 2nd, in the +3rd and 4th fingers of the left hand and lay the former +over the 3rd, the latter over the 1st. This constitutes +a «half passing».</p> + +<p>The plait, fig. <a href="#fig_784">784</a>, is formed by the repetition +of the half passing. Two half passings make a whole +or «double passing».</p> + +<p>On the kind of lace you are making, depends +how many pairs of bobbins you will have to use. +But as one part of the lace is often made before the +other, or you have to put on supernumerary bobbins, +you fasten up those not in use on one side with pins, +as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_783">783</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;"> +<img src="images/798.jpg" alt="FIG. 784. PASSING WITH TWO PAIRS OF BOBBINS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_784" id="fig_784"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 784. Passing with two pairs of bobbins.</span> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="Net_pattern_or_ground" id="Net_pattern_or_ground"></a>Net pattern or ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_785">785</a> and <a href="#fig_786">786</a>).—This +consists of half passings, worked in rows to and fro; +the pins are stuck in at the end of each row.</p> + +<p>The pattern, fig. <a href="#fig_785">785</a>, is fastened upon the pillow and 6 +pins are stuck in at the top, at regular intervals from each +<a name="Page_482" id="Page_482"></a>other; hang one pair of bobbins on every pin and lay the +second bobbin of each pair over its fellow, +so that the threads cross each other.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/799.jpg" alt="FIG. 785. PATTERN FOR NET PASSINGS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_785" id="fig_785"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 785. Pattern for net passings.</span> +</div> + +<p>1 half passing with the 1st and 2nd +pair = lay the 1st pair aside = 1 half +passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = +lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half passing +with the 3rd and 4th pair = lay the +3rd pair aside = 1 half passing with the +4th and 5th pair = lay the 4th pair +aside = 1 half passing with the 5th and +6th pair = stick in a pin at point 2, +then work back from right to left = +surround the pin with a half passing +made with the 5th and 6th pair = lay +the 6th pair aside = 1 half passing with +the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th pair +aside = 1 half passing with the 4th and +3rd pairs = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 +half passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = +lay the 3rd pair aside = 1 half passing +with the 2nd and 1st pair = stick in a +pin at point 3 and repeat from the beginning.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_786">786</a> shows the net ground completed; +the thread that runs to and fro, +to make it more clear, is represented in +a darker shade than the others.</p> + +<p>Before proceeding further, it is as well +to prepare our readers for the many +trials they will have to make, even with +the help of the most minute explanations, +before they succeed in carrying out the +directions; for the whole art of making +pillow lace lies in a manual dexterity, +only attainable by practice.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/800.jpg" alt="FIG. 786. NET GROUND. COMPLETED." title="" /> +<a name="fig_786" id="fig_786"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 786. Net ground. Completed.</span> +</div> + +<p>Even copying the patterns from description +is only possible at first in a qua<a name="Page_483" id="Page_483"></a>lified +sense; the surest way of attaining a satisfactory result +is by constantly comparing the drawing and the work in progress +and wherever the latter does not correspond with the +former, trying at once to rectify the difference.</p> + +<p><b>Linen or cloth ground</b>.—The pattern used for net passing +can also be used for linen passing or ground but 7 pins, instead of +6, have to be stuck in at the top first. As in net passing, you +work first from left to right, +running 2 threads to and fro +in perfectly horizontal lines, so +as to produce a ground resembling +linen in its texture.</p> + +<p>The threads that run to and +fro are held at the edge with +pins and changed by a half +passing, so that the one that +was first in going, is first also in returning.</p> + +<p>The use of the machine for crossing the threads is especially +to be recommended in working linen ground; by pressing the +short branches of the machine, the position of the threads is +changed and the bobbin is pushed through; by a second pressure +the second bobbin is driven through, the pin is stuck in +<a name="Page_484" id="Page_484"></a>for the picot or the cord, when the bobbins are taken back +again, four movements being thus all that is required.</p> + +<p><b>Plain hole ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_787">787</a> and <a href="#fig_788">788</a>).—Hole ground can +be worked in various ways; we will begin by describing the plain +hole ground, which as a rule forms the ground of all torchon +laces. After fixing the pattern, as represented in fig. <a href="#fig_787">787</a>, upon +the pillow, stick in 5 pins, hang 2 pairs of bobbins on to +each and throw the 2nd bobbin of each pair over its fellow += 1 half passing with the 2nd +and 3rd pairs = put up a pin at +point 1 = 1 half passing with +the same pair = this encloses +the pin = lay the 3rd pair aside += 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a pin at +point 2 = enclose it with the same pairs = 1 half passing with +the 5th and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose it +with the same pairs = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 half passing +<a name="Page_485" id="Page_485"></a>the 4th and 3rd pair = put up the pin at point 4 = +enclose the same = lay the 4th +pair aside = work on in the +same way over points 5 and 6 = +1 half passing with the 6th and +7th pair = put up the pin at +point 7 = enclose the same = +work on in the same way over +points 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 = 1 +half passing with the 8th and 9th +pair = put up the pin at point 31 += enclose the same = work on +over points 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 +and 20 = 1 half passing with the +9th and 10th pair = put up the +pin at point 21 = enclose the same +and proceed as in the preceding +rows, from point 22 to 29.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/801.jpg" alt="FIG. 787. PATTERN FOR PLAIN HOLE GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_787" id="fig_787"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 787. Pattern for plain hole ground.</span> +</div> + +<p>Hole ground with twisted thread +is made in the same way we have +just been describing, only that +after every half passing enclosing +the pin, each pair of bobbins is +twisted once. A ground which is +worked in this way is stronger than +the other. Twisted hole ground is +seen again in figs. <a href="#fig_792">792</a> and <a href="#fig_794">794</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/802.jpg" alt="FIG. 788. PLAIN HOLE GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_788" id="fig_788"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 788. Plain hole ground.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Wheels in hole ground</b> (figs. +<a href="#fig_789">789</a> and <a href="#fig_790">790</a>).—For the wheels, +which are often worked on pillow-made +grounds, 4, 6, 8 pairs of +bobbins, sometimes even more are +used (see likewise fig. <a href="#fig_801">801</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/803.jpg" alt="FIG. 789. WHEEL BEGUN IN HOLE GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_789" id="fig_789"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 789. Wheel begun in hole ground.</span> +</div> + +<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_789">789</a>, the wheel is worked +with the 4 middle pairs of bobbins. +Each pair has first to be +twisted once = 1 linen passing with +the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside +<a name="Page_486" id="Page_486"></a>the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 4th pair = +lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and 3rd pair += lay aside the 4th pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd +pair = put up the pin at the next point and between the 2nd +and 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = +lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 1st +pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and +3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 linen passing with the +3rd and 2nd pair = the last passing completes the wheel, such +as it is represented in fig. <a href="#fig_790">790</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/804.jpg" alt="FIG. 790. WHEEL IN HOLE GROUND COMPLETED." title="" /> +<a name="fig_790" id="fig_790"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 790. Wheel in hole ground completed.</span> +</div> + +<p>Twist the pairs of bobbins again as you did before beginning +the wheel and then proceed with the plain ground.</p> + +<p><b>Rose ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_791">791</a> and <a href="#fig_792">792</a>).—After preparing the +pattern, as in fig. <a href="#fig_791">791</a>, put up pins at <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i>, <i>e</i>, <i>f</i>, <i>g</i>, <i>h</i> and <i>i</i> +and hang on 2 pairs of bobbins to the first pin, and one pair +to each of the other 8 = 1 half passing with the 1st and 2nd pair += twist each pair once = take out the pin at point <i>a</i> and put +it up again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the +pin with 1 half passing = twist the pair once = lay the 1st pair +aside = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = twist the +pair again = take out the pin at <i>b</i>, put it in again at the same +point between the pair = enclose the pin = twist the pairs +again = lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 3rd +and 4th pair = twist the pair again = take out the needle +at <i>c</i> and put it in again at the same point between the pairs = +enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half passing with +the 3rd and 2nd pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin +at point 1 = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half +passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the pair again = +put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the pin = work point 2 and +1 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = 1 half passing with the 4th and +5th pair = twist the pairs again = take out the pin at <i>d</i> and +put it in again at the same point between the pair = work +point <i>e</i> exactly like point <i>d</i> with the 5th and 6th pair = work +point 4 like point 3 with the 4th and 5th pair = work points +5, 6 and 7 in a slanting direction from right to left = carry +out point 8 with the 5th and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside += work point 9 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = work point <i>f</i><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487"></a> +like point <i>e</i> with the 6th and +7th pair = work point <i>g</i> like +point <i>f</i> with the 7th and 8th +pair = then work points 10 to +15 with the 6th and 7th pair += point 16 with the 7th and +6th pair = point 17 with the +5th and 4th pair = point 18 +with the 3rd and 2nd pair = +point <i>h</i> like point <i>g</i> with the +8th and 9th pair = point <i>i</i> +with the 9th and 10th pair += points 19 to 26 with the +9th and 10th pair = point +27 with the 9th and 8th pair += point 28 with the 7th and +6th pair = point 29 with the +5th and 4th pair = point 30 +with the 3rd and 2nd pair. +Proceed in this manner until +the whole ground be finished.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/805.jpg" alt="FIG. 791. +PATTERN FOR ROSE GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_791" id="fig_791"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 791. +Pattern for rose ground.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/806.jpg" alt="FIG. 792. ROSE GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_792" id="fig_792"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 792. Rose ground.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Double or ornamental +ground</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_793">793</a> and <a href="#fig_794">794</a>).—This +ground should be worked +in a comparatively fine +material; we should recommend +Fil à dentelle D.M.C +Nos. 30 to 100. Put up pins +at points <i>a</i> and <i>g</i> in the pattern +and hang on a pair of +bobbins = put up pins likewise +at <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i>, <i>e</i> and <i>f</i> and +hang on a pair of bobbins to +each = 1 half passing with the +2nd and 3rd pair = take out +the pin at point <i>b</i> and put it +in again between the pair at +the same place = enclose the +<a name="Page_488" id="Page_488"></a>pin with a half passing = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st +pair = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing +with the 4th and 5th pair = take out the pin at point <i>l</i> and +put it in again between the pairs at the same place = enclose +the needle = 1 half passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = put +up a pin at point 2 = enclose the needle = 1 half passing +with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose +the needle = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = 1 +half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a needle +at point 4 = enclose the needle = work point <i>d</i> like point <i>c</i> +with the 6th and 7th pair = 1 half passing with the 6th and +5th pair = put up a pin at point 5 = enclose the pin = work +over point <i>e</i> like point <i>d</i> with the 7th and 8th pair = 1 half +passing with the 7th and 6th pair += put up a pin at point 6 = enclose +the pin = 1 half passing with the +6th and 5th pair = put up a pin +at point 7 = enclose the pin = +1 half passing with the 6th and 7th +pair = lay the 2 pairs aside = 1 +half passing with the 5th and 4th +pair, by which the threads are +made to cross each other in the +square = work over point <i>f</i> as +over point <i>e</i> with the 10th and +11th pair = work over points 17 +to 19 as over points 5 to 7 = +when the square is finished 1 half +passing with the 10th and 11th +pair = half passings between all +the squares.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/807.jpg" alt="FIG. 793. PATTERN FOR FIG. 794" title="" /> +<a name="fig_793" id="fig_793"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 793. Pattern for fig. <a href="#fig_794">794</a></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/808.jpg" alt="FIG. 794. DOUBLE OR ORNAMENTAL GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_794" id="fig_794"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 794. Double or ornamental ground.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Tulle ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_795">795</a>).—Prepare +your pattern for the +ground represented here on a magnified +scale, by pricking holes at regular distances so as to +form diagonal lines intersecting each other, as shown in the +engraving, and set more or less closely together, according to +the thickness of the thread you use.</p><p><a name="Page_489" id="Page_489"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/809.jpg" alt="FIG. 795. TULLE GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_795" id="fig_795"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 795. Tulle ground.</span> +</div> + +<p>1 half passing = put up the pin at the next point, twist both +pairs twice, but without enclosing the pin, and pass the inner +left thread over the inner left one = twist the two pairs again += cross as before and so on.</p> + +<p><b>Valenciennes ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_796">796</a>).—The Valenciennes +ground is formed of little plaits for which 2 pairs of bobbins +are used. These plaits are often used in other kinds +of lace as well, as may be seen for instance in figs. <a href="#fig_801">801</a>, <a href="#fig_802">802</a> +and <a href="#fig_806">806</a> which are not Valenciennes patterns.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/810.jpg" alt="FIG. 796. VALENCIENNES GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_796" id="fig_796"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 796. Valenciennes ground.</span> +</div> + +<p>According to the size of the squares the plaits are made with +either 4, 6 or 8 half passings, 2 pairs of bobbins being invariably +used. The plaits are joined by a half passing, made with the last +pair of the left plait and the first of the right = stick the pin +into the hole = enclose the pin by a half passing and work the +next plait on the left with the two left pairs and the next plait +on the right with the two right pairs.</p> + +<p><b>Brussels ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_797">797</a>).—For the sake of greater clearness, +this ground too has been worked and reproduced here on +a magnified scale.</p><p><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/811.jpg" alt="FIG. 797. BRUSSELS GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_797" id="fig_797"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 797. Brussels ground.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is worked in diagonal lines, as follows: 1 double passing +with 2 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at the next point = enclose +the pin with a double passing, twist both pairs each time +once and so on. This ground, when it is worked by the hand +in very fine thread, takes a long time to do and is therefore +often made by machinery.</p> + +<p><b>Eternelle with two rows of holes</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_798">798</a>).—The so-called +«eternelle» laces have no definite +pattern; they can be made of +any width, in the form of insertions +or edgings.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/811a.jpg" alt="FIG. 798. ETERNELLE WITH TWO ROWS OF HOLES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_798" id="fig_798"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 798. Eternelle with two rows of holes.</span> +</div> + +<p>For a single row of holes, you +want 6 pairs of bobbins; for two +rows, 7; for three, 9, adding two +pairs of bobbins for every additional +row of holes. The upper part of fig. <a href="#fig_798">798</a> shows how the points are distributed; +here 7 pairs of bobbins are +used.</p> + +<p>Put up a pin at the topmost +point = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins += 1 double passing = take out the +pin and put it in again between the +two pairs = tighten the pair = hang +on 1 pair of bobbins again on the left += 1 double passing with the 1st pair +of the bobbins you hung on first and +with the new pair = push the double +passing close to the pin = twist the +first pair once and then lay it aside += 1 double passing with the 2nd and +3rd pair that enclose the pin = hang +on 2 pairs of bobbins in the middle += 1 double passing with both pairs += lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double +passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 +double passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair +once and lay it aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd +<a name="Page_491" id="Page_491"></a>pair that enclose the pin = put up 1 pin at the 3rd lower point, +hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing with these bobbins = +lay the 7th pair aside = * 1 double passing with the 6th +and 5th pair = lay the 6th pair aside = 1 double passing with +the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th +pair aside = 1 double passing with +the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th +pair aside = 1 double passing with +the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin +at the next point = 1 double passing +with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist +the 1st pair once = 1 double passing +with the 2nd and 3rd pair, to enclose +the pin = lay the 3 first pairs +aside = 1 double stitch with the 4th +and 5th pair = lay the last two +pairs aside = 1 double passing with +the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin +at the next point = enclose the pin +with the last pairs = repeat from *.</p> + +<p><b>Lace with torchon ground and +edge in net ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_799">799</a>).—Worked +with 10 pairs of bobbins.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/811b.jpg" alt="FIG. 799. +LACE WITH TORCHON GROUND AND +EDGE IN NET GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_799" id="fig_799"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 799.<br /> +Lace with torchon ground and +edge in net ground.<br /> +Materials:</span> Fil à pointer D.M.C +No. 30. Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C +Nos. 20 to 100, or Fil à dentelle +D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150, white +or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Put up a pin at * = make net +passings, fig. <a href="#fig_786">786</a>, to point 1 = put +up a pin at point 1 = enclose the +pin with the two last pairs on the +right = net passings to point 2 = put +up a pin at point 2 = lay one pair +of bobbins aside = net passings to +point 3 = put up a pin at point 3 = +enclose the pin = net passings to +point 4 = put up a pin at point 4 += lay one pair of bobbins aside = +net passings to point 5 = put up a +pin at point 5 = net passings, back +<a name="Page_492" id="Page_492"></a>to point 6 = put up a pin at point 6 = take up the bobbins +on the left again = 1 half passing with the 1st pair on +the left = put up a pin at point 7 = work the torchon ground, +at the top of the lace, as in fig. <a href="#fig_788">788</a>, with the 2nd and +3rd pair = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = put +up a pin at point 8 = twist the 1st and 2nd pair = 1 double +passing with the 1st and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 9 += 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = lay the 2nd +pair aside = make hole or torchon stitch, fig. <a href="#fig_788">788</a>, with the +3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 10 = work on to +point 11 in hole ground = put up a pin at point 11 = cross the +1st and 2nd pair on the left = put up a pin at point 12 = enclose +the pin = lay 5 pairs of bobbins aside on the left = take +up 5 pairs on the right = put up a pin at point 13 = net +passings with the 5 pairs on the right = take up, in addition, the +6th pair on the left = hole ground with the 5th and 6th pair += put up a pin at point 14 = net passings to point 15 with 5 +pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 15 = net passings +with 6 pairs of bobbins = take up a 7th pair of bobbins in +addition = hole ground with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a +pin at point 16 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up +a pin at point 17 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put +up a pin at point 18 and then repeat from the first point * on +the left.</p> + +<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_800">800</a>, <a href="#fig_801">801</a>, <a href="#fig_802">802</a>).—We here give as an +example the same pattern of lace worked in two thicknesses +of thread; fig. <a href="#fig_801">801</a> in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, fig. <a href="#fig_802">802</a> in Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, which is of course much +thicker. As this pattern is especially suitable for trimming +household articles, made of unbleached linen, such for +instance as table-covers, curtains and hangings of all kinds, we +prefer it made in the thicker thread; even then it looks very +well as a trimming for articles of dress.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/full_812.jpg"><img src="images/812.jpg" alt="FIG. 800. PATTERN FOR THE PILLOW LACE FIGS. 801 AND 802." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_800" id="fig_800"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 800. Pattern for the pillow lace figs. <a href="#fig_801">801</a> and <a href="#fig_802">802</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is worked with 40 pairs of bobbins = hang them on one +after the other in a row = put up a pin at point 1 = twisted +linen passing = work all the pairs to point 2 with linen passing<a name="Page_493" id="Page_493"></a> += put up the pin at the last pair = go back through 3 pairs +with linen passing = twist 2 pairs once = go back with linen +passing through all the pairs to point 3 = twist each pair separately = +at point 4 twist the 2 pairs and put up the pin = +twist the last pair twice and so on and coming back to point +5 = put up the pin = come back again to point 6 = return +to point 7 = put up the pins at the two points.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a href="images/full_813.jpg"><img src="images/813.jpg" alt="FIG. 801. PILLOW LACE." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_801" id="fig_801"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 801. Pillow lace.<br /> +Material:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Divide the 30 other pairs into twos = put up a pin between +every set of two pairs = linen passing. The ground is all +worked alike: twist the pairs twice = linen passing = put up the +pins = linen passing to points 6 and 7 = twist the threads in +taking them through = make a plait, fig. <a href="#fig_796">796</a>, for the scallop +point 8 = put up a pin at the point marked for the picot = pass +the thread of the outside bobbin from right to left, round the +pin, to form the picot = continue the plait to the next picot = +put up a pin = form the picot = continue the plait to point 9 += connect the plait with the bobbins of points 9 and 7 = make +4 linen passings with 3 pairs = continue the plait = carry the +last pair to point 10 = twist the threads = make 1 linen passing += put up a pin and enclose it = go on in this manner to point<a name="Page_494" id="Page_494"></a> +12 = make the wheel, as +in figs. <a href="#fig_789">789</a> and <a href="#fig_790">790</a>, with +6 pairs of bobbins, hanging +on 4 new pairs at point +12 = work with twisted +linen passing = twist the 4 +pairs once and cross with +linen passing = take the +last pair out from the middle +to point 13, join it to +the first pair of the scallop += make all the wheels +before continuing the +ground = then go back +from point 13 to 14 = +cross the pairs again = +at point 12 twist 4 pairs += 2 twisted linen passings +right and left with the bobbins +of points 14 and 15 += 1 twisted linen passing = +put up the pins and work +all the spiders alike.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a href="images/full_814.jpg"><img src="images/814.jpg" alt="FIG. 802. PILLOW LACE." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_802" id="fig_802"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 802. Pillow lace.<br /> +Material:</span> Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p><b>Pillow lace insertion</b> +(figs. <a href="#fig_803">803</a> and <a href="#fig_804">804</a>).—Hang +on 12 pairs of bobbins.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/full_815.jpg"><img src="images/815.jpg" alt="FIG. 803. PATTERN FOR PILLOW LACE INSERTION FIG. 804." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_803" id="fig_803"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 803. Pattern for pillow lace insertion fig. <a href="#fig_804">804</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p>Divide the bobbins and +put 2 pairs at point 1 = +put up a pin = twist once += 2 linen passings = from +point 2 to point 8 = 5 +twisted linen passings = +add one pair of bobbins = +put up a pin = add one +pair of bobbins = put up +a pin = lay one pair of +<a name="Page_495" id="Page_495"></a>bobbins aside = twist = 2 +linen passings = 5 twisted +linen passings to point 10 += 2 linen passings = twist +the 2 last pairs = go back +with linen passing through +2 pairs = join together with +the two pairs and the first +pair by means of a twisted +stitch = put up the pin = +lozenge stitch (for lozenge +stitch in which the lozenges +or close leaves are made, +you take 4 or 6 threads; +in the execution it resembles +the darning stitch represented +in figs. <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_646">646</a> and +<a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_647">647</a>) to point 11 = twist at +point 12 = take 2 pairs +from point 10 = plait to +point 13 = twist with the +bobbins of point 1 = double +passing = plait on the +right, twist on the left = +put up the pin = tie up as +described.</p> + +<p>Take the second pair at +points 13 and 15 = put up +the pin = 2 twisted double +passings on the right = 2 +linen passings = twist the +2 latter = put up the pin += at point 16 lay one pair +of bobbins aside = with +simple passing go back +through 2 linen passings =<a name="Page_496" id="Page_496"></a> +join the latter and the former with linen passing = put up the +pin at point 17 = lozenge stitch with the bobbins of points 15 +and 17 to point 18 = connect the same at point 11 = carry on +the lozenge stitch to points 19, 20 and 21 = put up a pin at +each number and enclose with a linen passing = with the first +pair of bobbins of point 21, 2 linen passings to the left and 2 +twisted linen passings, that is to say, crossing the threads = +put up the pin at point 22.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/816.jpg" alt="FIG. 804. PILLOW LACE INSERTION." title="" /> +<a name="fig_804" id="fig_804"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 804. Pillow lace insertion.<br /> +Materials</span>: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C +Nos. 25 to 100.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Twist the threads from point 16 to point 23 = make a plait +from point 15 to point 23 = then join the two parts together +by half passings = put up a pin = twist the threads and make +plaits to point 24 = join the threads as at point 23.</p> + +<p>On the left and with the first pair of point 19, 2 linen +passings = with the 2 latter 1 twisted passing = put up the +pin at point 25 = returning, 2 linen passings to point 26 = 2 +linen passings to the left = with the 2 latter pairs 2 double +passings and put up the pin.</p> + +<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_805">805</a> and <a href="#fig_806">806</a>).—Hang on 14 pairs of bobbins.</p><p><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a href="images/full_817.jpg"><img src="images/817.jpg" alt="FIG. 805. PATTERN FOR PILLOW LACE FIG. 806." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_805" id="fig_805"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 805. Pattern for pillow lace fig. <a href="#fig_806">806</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p>These are divided into 3 groups = 3 pairs at point 1 = put +up a pin = twisted linen passing = twist both pairs once = put up +the pin at point 3 = add on 5 pairs at point 2 = put up the +pin = go back through 3 pairs = twist the 2 last pairs = linen +passing = put up the pin at point 3 = twist both pairs = linen +passings, as seen in the illustration, to the right and left as far as +point 11 = at point 13 intervert 6 pairs by a twisted linen passing += make a plait at point 14 = put up a pin in the middle of the +same = pass through 2 pairs of bobbins with twisted linen passing += put 1 pair of bobbins aside at point 22 = put up a pin at the +2 first pairs at point 15 = work the leaf in lozenge stitch<a name="Page_498" id="Page_498"></a> += put up a pin at point 16 near the first pair = twist both +pairs once = linen passing = put up the pin at point 17 = go +back in the same manner = work on in the same way to point +21 = put up the pin at point 22 = twisted linen passing to point +11 = tie up the first pair of the scallop with the bobbins of +point 11 = bring the last pair back and work as at point 1 = then +repeat and proceed in the same way to point 27 = twist +the 2 pairs up to point 26 = put up the pin = make one +lozenge stitch and join the plait, stitch to point 28 = continue +the lozenge stitch to point 29 = join the bobbins of point 29 +to those of point 21 by a plait = put up the pin = linen passing += twist the two last pairs once = put up the pin = linen passing += put up the pin at point 31 = twist both pairs once = 2 linen +passings = put up the pin at point 82 = 2 linen passings = tie +up the bobbins of point 33 with those of point 29 = plait +stitch = put up the pin = join to point 34 with lozenge stitch += with the bobbins at point 28 make lozenge stitch to point +27 = put up a pin = twist 3 pairs once = make 2 linen passings += join with linen passing = continue the scallop according to +the preceding description, from point 27 to point 35.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/818.jpg" alt="FIG. 806. PILLOW LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_806" id="fig_806"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 806. Pillow lace. +<br /> +Material:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>At point 34 make a leaf in lozenge stitch = put up the +pin = continue from point 33 to point 36 with twisted linen +passings = carry the first pair of bobbins of the lozenge to point +35 by means of 2 twisted linen passings = put up a pin in the +middle of the 2 pairs = make a plait to point 37 = cross the +pairs again as at point 13, in the beginning.</p> + +<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_807">807</a> and <a href="#fig_808">808</a>).—Worked with 30 pairs of +bobbins.—These are divided: 14 pairs at point 1 = put up a +pin on the left and right = with the last pairs make plaits to +point 12 = add 2 pairs = make a double passing as for a plait += put up a pin in the middle of the pairs = plait with 2 pairs +of bobbins to point 3 = add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a +double passing as for the plait = put up a pin in the middle of +the pairs = then go on in the same manner to point 4 = add +4 pairs of bobbins = put up the pin = at point 5, add 2 pairs +of bobbins = make a plait = put up a pin and join to point 4 +by a double passing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_807" id="fig_807"></a><a name="fig_808" id="fig_808"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<a href="./images/full_819.jpg"><img src="images/819.jpg" alt="FIG. 807. +PATTERN FOR PILLOW LACE FIG. 808." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 807. +Pattern for pillow lace fig. <a href="#fig_808">808</a>.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/820.jpg" alt="FIG. 808. PILLOW LACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 808. Pillow lace. +<br /> +Material:</span> Fil à dentelle D.M.C +No. 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div></div> + +<p>At point 1, lay the two last pairs to the right = put up a +<a name="Page_499" id="Page_499"></a>pin = make a plait to point 6 = add 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double +passing = put up a pin = make a plait to point 7 with a pairs +of bobbins = add 2 pairs of +bobbins = 1 double passing = put +up the pin = make a plait to point 8 = add 4 pairs of bobbins += 5 linen passings = put up a pin at the last passing = at +point 9 add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a plait = put up a pin = join +to point 8 with linen passing = make plaits from point 9 to +point 10 = put up a pin = leave the pairs hanging = 5 linen +<a name="Page_500" id="Page_500"></a>passings with the bobbins of point 10 = put up the pin at point +11 = go back to point 10 with 5 passings = put up the pin = +make a plait and tie up the bobbins at point 6 = leave these +bobbins hanging down.</p> + +<p>With the two first pairs at point 11, make a plait to point +12 = 1 linen passing at point 7 and join to point 12 by a plait = plait +stitch = put up a pin = then plait stitch to point 13 +and make the same connection as at points 12 and 7 = continue +to plait to point 14 = put up the pin at the first pair = +7 linen passings = leave these bobbins hanging down = tie up +the plait of point 5 with the 1st pair of point 4 = make a plait +on the left = put up a pin at point 15 = make 5 linen passings +on the right and put up the pin at point 16 = make a plait to +point 17 = make the same connection as at point 7 and 12 = the +same connection also at point 18 = make a plait to point +19 = put up the pin = make a plaited lozenge with one pair = leave +2 pairs hanging at point 20, left and right = continue +to point 21 = leave 2 pairs hanging, left and right = make a +plait to point 22 = begin again at point 17 and make a leaf in +lozenge stitch to point 23 = make a second leaf from point 16 to +point 23 = join the leaves at point 23 = make a plait with the +first pair of point 16 to point 24 = put up a pin = enclose it +with a double passing and make a plait = tie up the bobbins at +point 15 = continue the edge to point 26 = make a leaf in +lozenge stitch from point 32 to point 26 = tie up the bobbins +at point 26 and make linen passings with the united bobbins to +point 27 = with the bobbins of point 18 and point 20, therefore +with 4 pairs, make a square in lozenge stitch = join the +3 leaves at point 23 = from point 23 to point 28 make a plait +with the two first pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 28 = make +a plait with picots to point 29 = lozenge stitch from +point 32 to point 22 and point 33 = join to point 30 by a plait = plait +to point 22 = work from point 34 to 35 in the same +way as from point 1 to point 33 = at point 22 and point 35 +the pairs cross each other.</p> + +<p><b>Pillow lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_809">809</a> and <a href="#fig_810">810</a>).—Hang on 28 pairs of +bobbins. Begin at point 1 with a plait, fig. <a href="#fig_790">790</a> = put up a +pin = * hang on 5 pairs at point 2 and put up a pin at the last +<a name="Page_501" id="Page_501"></a>pair = with the last pair make a plait to point 3 * = hang on +a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 +linen passing = hang on 3 pairs of bobbins = 1 linen +passing = 3 linen passings = put up a pin = 1 leaf in lozenge +stitch to point 4 = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 2 plait stitches = put +up a pin = make a leaf to point 5 = hang on 2 pairs of +bobbins = 1 plait stitch = put up a pin = repeat in the reverse +order to point 3.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_809" id="fig_809"></a><a name="fig_810" id="fig_810"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 350px;"> +<a href="./images/full_821.jpg"><img src="images/821.jpg" alt="FIG. 809. PATTERN FOR THE LACE FIG. 810." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 809. Pattern for the lace fig. <a href="#fig_810">810</a>.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/822.jpg" alt="FIG. 810. PILLOW LACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 810. Pillow lace.<br /> +Material:</span> Fil à dentelle D.M.C +No. 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> +</div> +<p><a name="Page_502" id="Page_502"></a></p> +<p>Put up a pin at point 9 = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 +linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = +hang on a pair of bobbins = make a plait to point 11 = put +up a pin = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins at point 12 = make a +plait and tie the threads together with those of point 11 = on +the left with 2 pairs, on the right with 3 pairs to point 13 +for the edge = put up 2 pins and continue the edge with +linen passings to point 14.</p> + +<p>Return to point 15 and make a plait = put up a pin += divide the bobbins and put one pair on the right, the other +on the left = take the bobbins at point 5 and 7 and make +plaits to points 16 and 17 = make linen passings with the two +pairs to point 18 = put up a pin and make a plait to point 21.</p> + +<p>Make leaves in lozenge stitch from points 4 and 8 to points +19 and 20 = one leaf from point 16 to point 19 = make another +leaf to point 22 and one to point 21 = make the same leaves +on the left to points 20, 21 and 23 = cross the bobbins +at point 21 = make leaves from point 21 to points 24, 26 +and 26.</p> + +<p>Make lozenge stitch with picots, with 3 pairs of bobbins +from points 9 and 10 to point 22 = join the bobbins to leaf +22 = carry on the braid to point 26 = join 2 pairs of bobbins +to the leaf = leave the 2 pairs at point 28 hanging down = +carry on the braid to point 25.</p> + +<p>Make a leaf at point 27 to point 14 = tie the threads together +as at point 10 = carry on the edge to point 29 = put +up a pin = make a plait with picots to point 30 = tie up the +threads with those of leaf 28 = make a leaf to point 31 = introduce +the threads into the edge = put up a pin = tie the +threads together.</p> + +<p>Make a plait on the left = leave 4 pairs of bobbins hanging +down on the right, 2 pairs for the plait and 2 for the leaf = +carry on the edge to point 32 = leave 2 pairs hanging for +another leaf = continue the edge to point 33. Make a plait +from point 21 to point 34.</p> + +<p>Begin again on the left at points 1 and 2 and work, as on +the right, to point 35 = cross the threads at point 25 = linen +passing = distribute the pairs to point 36 = 2 pairs at point 37<a name="Page_503" id="Page_503"></a> += 2 at point 38 = 3 pairs at point 34 = plait to point 37 = +join to point 38 = continue the plait and join to points 36, 35, +39 = at points 35, 36, 37 lozenge stitch with every 2 pairs of +bobbins to point 40 = then join the next 6 pairs together = +and work on with lozenge stitch to point 41 = work exactly +in the same manner at points 31, 32, 34, 35, 39, 42 as at +points 36, 37, 38, 40 to 41 = at point 41, all the threads are +interwoven, and then divided into 3 sets = continue the +leaves to points 45, 46 and 47. Then repeat in the reverse +order from points 31, 38, 25, 32 and 39.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Armenian_lace" id="Armenian_lace"></a>Armenian lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_811">811</a> and <a href="#fig_812">812</a>).—The dresses of the +Turkish women are often +ornamented with flowers +and leaves, executed in +needlework which take the +place of fringe and braid +trimmings and are often +even employed as adornments +for the neck and +arms instead of necklets +and bracelets in metal +work; though, as such, +they do not always accord +with our Western +notions of good taste, +the Armenian work +is in itself, both sufficiently +interesting +and easy of execution, +to deserve description +here amongst +other kinds +of needlework that +are adaptable to use. +It may be imitated +with capital effect in strong stiff washing materials, such as those +<a name="Page_504" id="Page_504"></a>indicated in our illustration, either upon a linen or cotton +foundation or upon plush or silk.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/823.jpg" alt="FIG. 811. ARMENIAN LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_811" id="fig_811"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 811. Armenian lace.<br /> +Materials</span>: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, +Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 40 or +Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Écru and Brun-Caroubier 303.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The thread is first drawn into the edge of the stuff; you then +carry it from right to left, determine the length of the squares, +and working from left to right make on this first thread as +many knots as you have room for.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_812">812</a> shows the formation of the knot, the manner in +which the thread, passing from left to right, forms a loop, and +how to pass your needle under the straightly extended thread +and through the loop. You leave a space of one or two m/m. +between the knots, according to the thickness of the thread you +are using. Having covered the first thread with knots, you return +to the edge for the next row of knots, but passing your +needle this time under three threads.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/824.jpg" alt="FIG. 812. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 811." title="" /> +<a name="fig_812" id="fig_812"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 812. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_811">811</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p>The number of knots should be the same in each row, +and the four sides of the square should be all equal.</p> + +<p>When the squares are finished they are edged with picots +on the two lower sides, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_812">812</a>.</p> + +<p>Thread of two colours was used for fig. <a href="#fig_811">811</a>, the squares being +worked alternately in Écru and Brun-Caroubier and the picots, +all in the latter colour.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Lace_and_insertion_in_knotted_stitch" id="Lace_and_insertion_in_knotted_stitch"></a>Lace and insertion in knotted stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_813">813</a>).—Excepting +in the case of the returning thread, the same stitches are +used for the pretty border and insertion given in fig. <a href="#fig_813">813</a>, as +for the Armenian lace.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/825.jpg" alt="FIG. 813. LACE AND INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_813" id="fig_813"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 813. Lace and insertion in knotted stitch.<br /> +Materials</span>: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 +to 25, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Écru and Rouge-Cardinal 46.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The stitches that form the insertion are attached, on both +sides, to an English braid, something of the nature of Rhodes +linen, which is open-worked before the knotted work upon it +is begun.</p> + +<p>As in the preceding figure, two colours are used alternately, +the change from one to the other is distinctly marked +in the engraving.</p> + +<p>The outside edge consists of light scallops, formed by +the regular increase and decrease of the stitches. The original +piece of work from which our drawing was taken, forms the +border of a dark blue plush carpet; the red and écru hues +of the lace harmonize exceedingly well with the soft colour +of the plush.</p><p><a name="Page_505" id="Page_505"></a></p> + +<p><b>Insertion in knotted stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_814">814</a> and <a href="#fig_815">815</a>).—This +kind of work, similarly composed of knotted stitches, can be +used instead of crochet insertion or single and cut openwork +in linen. It looks exceedingly well as a trimming for bed +and table linen and is executed on foundation threads or cords, +which connect the different figures together, with closely connected +rows of knots between.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/826.jpg" alt="FIG. 814. INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_814" id="fig_814"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 814. Insertion in knotted stitch.<br /> +Materials</span>: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30, +or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/827.jpg" alt="FIG. 815. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 814." title="" /> +<a name="fig_815" id="fig_815"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 815. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_814">814</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Insertion in knotted stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_816">816</a> and <a href="#fig_817">817</a>).—The +mode of making the insertion in knotted stitch, which is repre<a name="Page_506" id="Page_506"></a>sented +in the two accompanying engravings, is supposed to be +of Italian origin, but we have met with quite as perfect specimens +of work done in the same way, which were the products +of Persia and Asia Minor. We have called it by the same name +<a name="Page_507" id="Page_507"></a>as the preceding patterns, for even the way in which the stitch +is worked is almost the same. Through some slight difference +however in the interlacing of the threads, shown by the open +loops in fig. <a href="#fig_817">817</a>, the stitches lie closer together and are alike +on both sides of the work.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/828.jpg" alt="FIG. 816. INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_816" id="fig_816"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 816. Insertion in knotted stitch.<br /> +Materials</span>: The same as for fig. <a href="#fig_814">814</a>.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p><a name="Page_508" id="Page_508"></a></p> +<p>No difficulty will be found in making out the course of the +rows; it is best to begin by the two rows of stitches that +form the perpendicular bars and make the stitches, that compose +the 4 staves between the bars next. For the little picots +see fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_700">700</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/829.jpg" alt="FIG. 817. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 816." title="" /> +<a name="fig_817" id="fig_817"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 817. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_816">816</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Lace in knotted stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_818">818</a> and <a href="#fig_819">819</a>).—This charming +little lace, which is of Italian origin, was taken from a +cushion cover, used for church purposes. The stitches, made in +the order indicated in the working detail, fig. <a href="#fig_819">819</a>, are overcast +at the last with a fleecy thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C, +<a name="Page_509" id="Page_509"></a>of a rather sober colour, such for instance as Bleu-Indigo +334, Rouge-Géranium 352, or Jaune-Rouille 363.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="fig_818" id="fig_818"></a><a name="fig_819" id="fig_819"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/830.jpg" alt="FIG. 818. LACE IN KNOTTED STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 818. Lace in knotted stitch.<br /> +Materials</span>: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C +Nos. 10 to 25 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C +Nos. 25 to 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/831.jpg" alt="FIG. 819. +WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 818." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 819. +Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_818">818</a>.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>You overcast the slanting bars and pass over the stitches +that connect the two picots.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Reticella_lace" id="Reticella_lace"></a>Reticella lace</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_820">820</a> and <a href="#fig_821">821</a>).—The Reticella laces +are generally made on a design traced upon parchment, similar +to those required for the laces described later on. But +as the manner of working has been modified in the lace represented +here, we thought it as well to adopt the same simplification, +often used in beautiful pieces of old needlework, which +consists in substituting a braid made upon a pillow, for the +bars made with the needle.</p><p><a name="Page_510" id="Page_510"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/832.jpg" alt="FIG. 820. RETICELLA LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_820" id="fig_820"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 820. Reticella lace.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the open-work: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 100, +or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150, white or écru. +For the bars: Lacets superfins D.M.C Nos. 3 to 8.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/833.jpg" alt="FIG. 821. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 820." title="" /> +<a name="fig_821" id="fig_821"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 821. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_820">820</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p>You begin by laying +and fastening down the +braid by means of very +small stitches upon the +lines of the pattern, which +should be traced upon +black paper; you next +proceed to make the centre +bars, covered with +plain buttonhole stitches, +on which you mount a +row of stitches, like those +of fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_755">755</a>; these are followed +by another bar, +to make which, you pick +up the loop of the stitches +of the preceding row and +by another row like the +second, finished off with +picots, like those illustrated +in fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_700">700</a>. The +bases of the pyramids likewise +consist of bars, buttonholed +on both sides +and edged on the inside +with picots.</p> + +<p>The stitches of the +first row should not be +too close together, that +there may be room for +those of the second row +between, as we have already +explained in fig. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_702">702</a>, in the chapter on +<a href="./chapter_13.html">Irish lace</a>.</p> + +<p>The inside of the pyramids +is worked in the +stitch represented in fig.<a name="Page_511" id="Page_511"></a> +<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_755">755</a>, the picots round +them are like the ones +in fig. <a href="./chapter_11.html#fig_599">599</a>.</p> + +<p>The lace, represented +in fig. <a href="#fig_820">820</a> in its original +size, was worked in +Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. +80, whilst the second +engraving, representing +the same subject, shows +us how perfectly well it +can also be made in heavier +and coarser materials, +these being in this +instance, Lacets superfins +D.M.C No. 4 and Cordonnet +6 fils D.M.C No. 20.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Venetian_laces" id="Venetian_laces"></a>Venetian laces</b> (figs. +<a href="#fig_822">822</a>, <a href="#fig_823">823</a>, <a href="#fig_824">824</a>, <a href="#fig_825">825</a>, <a href="#fig_826">826</a>, +<a href="#fig_827">827</a>, <a href="#fig_828">828</a>).—Under the +name of «Venetian point» +are comprised, not only +certain kinds of pillow +lace, but even more generally, +the beautiful +needle-made lace, the outlines +of which are bordered +with handsome +scallops in high relief.</p> + +<p>We shall confine our +attention in the present +instance to the needle-made +Venetian lace as the +other can be learnt without +any great difficulty by +following the instructions +already given for the +making of pillow lace.</p><p><a name="Page_512" id="Page_512"></a></p> + +<p>The preparation of the +pattern, in most kinds of +needlework, is a most +important matter and one +requiring the greatest +care, but in the case of +needlemade lace and pillow +lace the processes are +different.</p> + +<p>The paper on which +the design is traced must +first be backed or lined +with unglazed black paper +(made specially for +this purpose). Prick holes +all along the lines of the +pattern, at exactly the +same distance from each +other, remove the tracing +and tack the black paper +upon rather coarse linen.</p> + +<p>This done, you take +from three to five lengths +of the thread of which +the lace is to be made, +lay them down together +upon the lines marked +by the prickings and secure +them at each hole +by a stitch made over +the threads.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/834.jpg" alt="FIG. 822. VENETIAN LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_822" id="fig_822"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 822. Venetian lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_822">822</a>, with the +others of the same series +in their natural size, show +the proper distance that +should be left between +the prickings, and the laying +down of the threads +<a name="Page_513" id="Page_513"></a>begun; whilst in fig. <a href="#fig_823">823</a>, we have the threads laid down +throughout, even for the little eyelet holes, which are to be +openworked afterwards.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/835.jpg" alt="FIG. 823. VENETIAN LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_823" id="fig_823"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 823. Venetian lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>When all this preliminary work is finished, the pattern is +ready for the lace stitches that are to form the filling in, between +the raised outlines. +In order to keep your +work perfectly clean and +preserve it from unnecessary +contact with your +fingers, cover all those +parts of the pattern you +are not immediately engaged +on, with a piece of +blue paper with a hole, +about the size of a pea, +cut in it. This you move +along as you go, working +only at the part of the +pattern which is visible +through the hole, keeping +all the rest carefully covered +up and sewing paper +over each part as +soon as it is finished; +this should not be removed +until you are ready +to join all the separate +parts together with bars or latticed ground and work the buttonhole +edges.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/836.jpg" alt="FIG. 824. VENETIAN LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_824" id="fig_824"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 824. Venetian lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>All the different lace stitches that are used as fillings must +be begun and fastened off at the outline threads, which you +must be careful not to drag out of their place.</p> + +<p>We again remark, for the benefit of those of our readers +who may not have read the preceding chapter attentively, that +in working all the finer lace stitches, the needle should be held +<a name="Page_514" id="Page_514"></a>with the eye towards the worker and the point turned outwards. +All the inside portions +of the pattern have to +be worked in separately; +(for a choice of stitches to +serve as fillings see figs. +<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_720">720</a> to <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_762">762</a>) until all the +spaces are filled, as represented +in figs. <a href="#fig_825">825</a> and <a href="#fig_826">826</a>. +The stitches should be +selected as far as possible, +to suit the style of the design. +Flowers look best +worked in an open or lattice +stitch, leaves on the +other hand in a thick +close stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/837.jpg" alt="FIG. 825. VENETIAN LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_825" id="fig_825"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 825. Venetian lace.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/838.jpg" alt="FIG. 826. VENETIAN LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_826" id="fig_826"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 826. Venetian lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>When all the insides +are done, the edges and +outlines have to be closely +buttonholed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/839.jpg" alt="FIG. 827. VENETIAN LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_827" id="fig_827"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 827. Venetian lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>The old Venetian laces +are bordered with scallops +in high relief, worked over +a thick pad of laid threads, +as described on p. <a href="./chapter_5.html#Page_83">83</a>, fig. <a href="./chapter_5.html#fig_191">191</a>, relating to Venetian +embroidery.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_828" id="fig_828"></a> +<img src="images/840.jpg" alt="Fig. 828. VENETIAN LACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 828. Venetian lace.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the open stitches: Fil à dentelle +D.M.C Nos. 100 to 200.<br /> +For the outlining and for the padding: Coton +surfin D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p><b>Venetian lace with +net ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_829">829</a>).—The +outlining of the figures +with several strands +of Coton surfin D.M.C, +should, in the case of detached +pieces of lace, be +done at once, but where +the figures are connected +by bars or by a net +<a name="Page_515" id="Page_515"></a>ground as in fig. <a href="#fig_825">825</a>, the buttonholed outlines should be done +last. Thus in making the lace, fig. <a href="#fig_829">829</a>, you should begin by +working all the insides of the flowers and foliage, then the net +ground which may be replaced by bars with picots and then +only proceed to the outside buttonholing and the scallops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_829" id="fig_829"></a> +<img src="images/841.jpg" alt="FIG. 829. VENETIAN LACE WITH NET GROUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 829. Venetian lace with net ground. +<br /> +Materials</span>—For the open stitches: Fil à dentelle +D.M.C Nos. 100 to 200.—For the outlining: +Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.</span> +</div> + +<p>As all this kind of lace-work is very laborious and takes a +long time to do, we advise our readers to use thread that is +slightly tinted; in the first place it does not turn yellow as +white thread is liable to do and secondly, being softer and +less twisted it takes every bend and turn more readily than +the stiffer white material does.</p> + +<p>Of all the different kinds +of thread, so frequently alluded +to in these pages, the +higher numbers of Fil d'Alsace +D.M.C and Fil à dentelle +D.M.C are the best for the +finer kinds of lace, and they +all have the soft ivory tint, +we so admire in the old +needlework.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Spray_in_needle-point" id="Spray_in_needle-point"></a>Spray in needle-point</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_830">830</a>).—Needle-point +lace, also called Brussels lace, +requires the same preparatory +work as Venetian lace; +but it seldom contains such +a variety of stitches and openwork +as the latter.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/842.jpg" alt="FIG. 830. SPRAY IN NEEDLE-POINT." title="" /> +<a name="fig_830" id="fig_830"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 830. Spray in needle-point.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the open stitches: Fil à +dentelle D.M.C No. 200.—For the outlining: +Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The flowers are generally +worked in one of the stitches, +represented in figs. <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_720">720</a> and +<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_740">740</a>; the outlines are less thickly buttonholed and the stitches, +set everywhere less closely.</p> + +<p>Here also, the finished parts should be carefully covered +with paper to keep them from getting soiled.</p> +<p><a name="Page_516" id="Page_516"></a></p> +<p>The needle-point lace designs are ordinarily speaking +more realistic and as regards the composition, less artistic +and severe than the Venetian point ones.</p> + +<p>The spray, represented in our engraving, is a specimen of +an ordinary Brussels lace pattern and of the stitches it is +worked in.</p> +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_15.html">Next Chapter.</a></p> +<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents.</a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label"><sup>[A]</sup></span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes +and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div> +</div> +</body> +</html> |