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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont.
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<p><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395"></a></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/621.jpg" alt="INSERTION IN EMBROIDERED NETTING.—ORNAMENT WITH VARIOUS STITCHES." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Insertion in embroidered netting.—Ornament with various stitches.</span>
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<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<h2><a name="Netting" id="Netting"></a>Netting.</h2>
<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<p>Netting is a handicraft, so ancient that it would be difficult
to trace it to its origin, or determine the date of its invention.
There is evidence to show that the making of nets for fishing
and game catching was as familiar to the earlier races of mankind
as it is to us.</p>
<p>Practised in the first instance for the wants of life, it by
degrees developed into an art, in conjunction with embroidery,
to which it was made to serve as a foundation. The netting of
every country, almost, has a distinctive character of its own:
that of Persia is known by its fine silken meshes and rich
gold and silver embroidery; that of Italy, by the varied size
and shape of its meshes and a resemblance in the style of its
embroidery to the Punto tagliato; whilst the netting of
France, known by the name of Cluny guipure, consists of a
groundwork of fine meshes with stiff close designs embroidered
upon it, outlined in coarse glazed thread.</p>
<p>Netting, which divides itself under two headings, netting
proper, or plain netting and net embroidery, has never yet
gone out of fashion and places are still to be found where the
entire population is engaged in this industry.</p>
<p><b><a name="Plain_netting" id="Plain_netting"></a>Plain netting and the implements used in netting</b>
(figs. <a href="#fig_611">611</a>, <a href="#fig_612">612</a>, <a href="#fig_613">613</a>).—Plain netting consists of loops, secured
and rendered independent of one another by knots. For forming
and tightening these loops and knots the following implements<a name="Page_396" id="Page_396"></a>
are necessary; in the first place, a netting needle; these
are generally made of steel, split and flattened at both ends,
with a hole bored through them below the fork at the one
end, in which the thread, fig. <a href="#fig_611">611</a>, is secured, before it is
wound on lengthwise between the forks. They are numbered
as to size like knitting needles. There are netting needles likewise
of bone, ivory, wood and tortoise-shell for twine and thick
materials; these are without hole, fig. <a href="#fig_612">612</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/622.jpg" alt="FIG. 611. NETTING NEEDLE OF STEEL." title="" />
<a name="fig_611" id="fig_611"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 611. Netting needle of steel.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<img src="images/623.jpg" alt="FIG. 612. NETTING NEEDLE OF IVORY." title="" />
<a name="fig_612" id="fig_612"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 612. Netting needle of ivory.</span>
</div>
<p>The thread must be wound on very tightly, and not too
much of it at a time, that the needle may slip easily through
the loops. The mesh, or spool, fig. <a href="#fig_613">613</a>, whether of ivory, bone,
steel or wood, should be smooth and round and of the same
thickness throughout, so that the loops, made upon it, may be
all of one size and easily slipped off.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/624.jpg" alt="FIG. 613. MESH OR SPOOL OF IVORY." title="" />
<a name="fig_613" id="fig_613"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 613. Mesh or spool of ivory.</span>
</div>
<p>For long loops a flat mesh is best, and in all cases, the
needle and mesh should be selected with a view, both to the
material employed, and the size of loop required.</p>
<p>In addition to these two implements, a cushion, weighted
with lead will be required, to pin the foundation loop to, on
which the first row of netting is worked.</p>
<p><b>Materials suitable for netting.</b>—These, of course depend
on the purpose of the netting: silk, twine, wool and cotton,
can all be used and each possesses its advantages and disadvantages.
Silk has the finest gloss but when it is strongly twisted
it is very apt to knot, and when loosely twisted, does not make
firm knots. It is difficult to get linen thread with a smooth
uniform twist and moreover it soon frays in the working; wool
is too elastic a fibre and is unsuitable for washing purposes,
cotton remains therefore, in every respect the most desirable
material, being both smooth and uniformly twisted; as qualities,
<a name="Page_397" id="Page_397"></a>more especially adapted for netting we may mention the following:
Fil à pointer D.M.C, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C (crochet
cotton), Fil à dentelle D.M.C (lace thread), and even Coton
à tricoter D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> (knitting cotton).</p>
<p><b><a name="Netting_stitches" id="Netting_stitches"></a>Netting stitches</b>.—The loops are always the same—four-cornered
whether they be square or oblong—and connected
together, though secured and rendered independent of one
another by knots. By different ways of passing the thread over
the mesh and connecting the loops together, the following
stitches are produced: 1º plain loop, 2º double loop, 3º oblong
loop, 4º honeycomb loop, 5º twisted loop.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/625.jpg" alt="FIG. 614. FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS." title="" />
<a name="fig_614" id="fig_614"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 614. First position of the hands.</span>
</div>
<p><b>1º Plain loop. First position of the hands</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_614">614</a>).—Every
kind of netting requires a foundation loop, from 10 to
20 c/m. long, made either of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to
10, or Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 10<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, which is pinned to the
<a name="Page_398" id="Page_398"></a>cushion. Fasten the working thread to the foundation loop;
then take the mesh in the left hand, holding it between the
thumb and forefinger, with the other fingers extended beneath.
Take the needle filled with thread in the right hand and pass
the thread downwards over the mesh and over the second,
third and fourth fingers, inside, carry it up behind the third
finger and lay it to the left under the thumb by which it has to
be held fast.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/626.jpg" alt="FIG. 615. SECOND POSITION OF THE HANDS." title="" />
<a name="fig_615" id="fig_615"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 615. Second position of the hands.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Second and third position of the hands</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_615">615</a> and
<a href="#fig_616">616</a>).—Carry the thread down behind the second, third, fourth
and fifth fingers, and put the needle through the loop on the
fingers and behind the mesh, through the foundation loop,
thus forming a second loop, which you hold back with the
little finger of the left hand. Then gradually drawing up the
thread that runs from the mesh, let go the loop held down
by the thumb; then by degrees let go also, the loop which lies
over the second, third and fourth fingers, still holding the last
loop fast with the little finger; finally you release this too and
pull up the knot thus formed close to the mesh with the right
hand. This completes the stitch. The next stitches are made
<a name="Page_399" id="Page_399"></a>in the same way; whether they are to serve for casting on or
for a netted foundation. The mesh is drawn out at the end
of each row, the work turned and the mesh held beneath the
last row, in readiness for the next, in making which you pass
your needle through each loop. These diamond-shaped loops
form a diagonal net.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/627.jpg" alt="FIG. 616. THIRD POSITION OF THE HANDS." title="" />
<a name="fig_616" id="fig_616"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 616. Third position of the hands.</span>
</div>
<p><b>2º Double loop</b>.—To make a double loop put the thread
two or three times round the mesh.</p>
<p><b>3º Oblong loop</b>.—For oblong loops, the knots must be
made a little distance from the mesh.</p>
<p><b>4º Honeycomb loop</b>.—Make an oblong loop, pass the
thread round the fingers, but not over the mesh as in plain
netting, put the needle, not into the loop of the previous row,
but between the loop, just made. The knot which is made
in the same way as in plain netting, must be drawn close up
to the mesh; the two threads of the loop should lie side by side
on the mesh. The loops in honeycomb netting are six-sided.</p>
<p><b>5º Twisted loops</b>.—Pass the thread, as in plain netting,
over the mesh and fingers, but before letting the thread which
<a name="Page_400" id="Page_400"></a>is under the thumb go, pass the needle from right to left under
the loop you are making and the thread, and only then draw
up the knot.</p>
<p>Although in netting the loops cannot be formed in as many
different ways as in knitting or crochet,
they admit of a certain variety,
as the following explanations will
show.</p>
<p><b><a name="Patterns_produced_in_netting" id="Patterns_produced_in_netting"></a>Patterns produced in netting
by using meshes of different
widths.</b>—Plain netting can be varied
by making one row of loops over a
large mesh and one over a small
one, or several rows over the large
and several over the small, alternately,
changing the meshes at regular intervals.</p>
<p><b>Patterns produced in netting by increasing
and decreasing</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_617">617</a>).—Patterns
of this kind are made by netting
the meshes together in regular sequence
and taking up as many meshes as you have
netted together, or vice versa. You may
increase and decrease in the same rows, or
at an interval of so many rows.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/628.jpg" alt="FIG. 617. PATTERNS PRODUCED IN
NETTING BY INCREASING AND DECREASING." title="" />
<a name="fig_617" id="fig_617"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 617. Patterns produced in
netting by increasing and decreasing.</span>
</div>
<p>Two sizes of thread should be used for
this patterns. To show the relation they
should bear to one another, we instance:
Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30 with Fil à dentelle
D.M.C No. 50<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, or Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 14
and 30<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, with Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 50<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, or Coton
à repriser D.M.C No. 25 with No. 100.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p>
<p>Begin by 3 rows of plain netting with the finer thread over
the small mesh, followed by one row with the coarser thread
over the large mesh; then, with the coarse thread over the large
mesh, one row, in which you net every two loops together
<a name="Page_401" id="Page_401"></a>and one row, with two loops in every
one, so that the number of loops remains
the same. These are followed
by 3 rows of plain netting with the
fine thread on the small mesh.</p>
<p><b>Loose loops in clusters</b> (figs.
<a href="#fig_618">618</a> and <a href="#fig_619">619</a>).—These clusters of
loose loops are made in the following
manner:</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;">
<a name="fig_618" id="fig_618"></a><a name="fig_619" id="fig_619"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 175px;">
<img src="images/629.jpg" alt="FIG. 618. LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 618. Loose loops in clusters.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/630.jpg" alt="FIG. 619. LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS.
WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 618." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 619. Loose loops in clusters.
Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_618">618</a>.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>1st row—one loop, the knot of
which must be a little distance from
the mesh; put the thread over the mesh
and the needle through the loop where the knot is; repeat
this three or four times, making the loops all of the same length.
Then unite all the loops with one knot, carrying the needle
from right to left, round the loops, instead of putting it through
the loop of the previous row.</p>
<p>2nd row—make one
loop over each loop of
the first row, leaving out
the loops that form the
cluster.</p>
<p>As may be gathered
from the drawing, many
different patterns can be
worked upon the netting
in this manner.</p>
<p><b>Netting composed
of plain, double and
oblong loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_620">620</a>).—Netting
composed of
large and small loops is
the kind generally used
as a groundwork for embroidery. The loops of it are straight;
diamond netting will serve the same purpose, but as it is less
commonly used we have given the preference to the straight.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/631.jpg" alt="FIG. 620. NETTING COMPOSED OF PLAIN, DOUBLE
AND OBLONG LOOPS." title="" />
<a name="fig_620" id="fig_620"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 620. Netting composed of plain, double
and oblong loops.</span>
</div>
<p>The whole first row consists of a double and a plain loop
alternately; the second, entirely of oblong loops, which are
<a name="Page_402" id="Page_402"></a>made by passing the thread only once over the mesh, and so,
that in netting on the double loop, the knot is brought close
to the needle, where as, in netting the plain loop, it hangs free;
so that, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_620">620</a>,
all the loops of the 2nd row
are of the same length. In the
3rd row, which is like the
first, the plain loops should
come between the small holes
and the double ones between
the large holes.</p>
<p><b>Circular netting composed
of long and short
loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_621">621</a>).—Make thirty
or thirty one loops over a large
mesh with a very stout material, such as Fil à pointer
D.M.C No. 20, or a double thread of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
No. 30, then draw up the thread on which the loops are
strung, as tightly as possible, so as to form quite a small ring
for the centre, and fasten off.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/632.jpg" alt="FIG. 621. CIRCULAR NETTING COMPOSED OF
LONG AND SHORT LOOPS." title="" />
<a name="fig_621" id="fig_621"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 621. Circular netting composed of
long and short loops.</span>
</div>
<p>For the next row, also made in coarse thread, fasten the
thread on to a long loop and make one loop into each loop of
the first row, over a small mesh. Use the same mesh for all
the subsequent rows, which should
be worked in a finer thread, such as
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 50 or 60.</p>
<p>If you want to avoid fastening
on the thread afresh for each row,
make a loop over the thumb.</p>
<p><b>Making loops over the thumb</b>.—Put
the thread, as for a plain loop
over the mesh and fingers, and put
the needle through the loop, likewise
as for a plain loop, but before tightening
the knot, draw the mesh out
of the loop just made and make it exactly as long as the
loop above.</p>
<p><b>Circular netting formed by increases</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_622">622</a>).—Make
10 loops on the foundation loop,
close the ring, then go on, making a
row with one knot in the first loop
and two knots in the second, until
the net attains the right circumference;
in the subsequent rows,
increase by one loop, that is to say,
make two knots in each of the previous
increases.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/633.jpg" alt="FIG. 622. CIRCULAR NETTING
FORMED BY INCREASES." title="" />
<a name="fig_622" id="fig_622"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 622. Circular netting
formed by increases.</span>
</div><p><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403"></a></p>
<p><b>Square of netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_623">623</a> and
<a href="#fig_624">624</a>).—To make squares of netting
with straight loops, begin by making
two loops or three knots. Make two
knots in each of the following rows
so that each row is increased by one
loop. Continue to increase until you
have one loop more than the square
should number.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<a name="fig_623" id="fig_623"></a><a name="fig_624" id="fig_624"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/634.jpg" alt="FIG. 623. SQUARE OF NETTING. BEGUN." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 623. Square of netting. Begun.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/635.jpg" alt="FIG. 624. SQUARE OF NETTING. COMPLETED." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 624. Square of netting. Completed.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>Following this row with the extra
stitch, make a row without either increase
or intake and begin the intakes
in the next row, joining the two last loops of each row together
by a knot. Finish the two last loops over the thumb.</p>
<p><b>Square of netting begun from the middle</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_625">625</a> and
<a href="#fig_626">626</a>).—Instead of beginning a square from the corner, in the
manner just described, it may be begun from the middle.</p><p><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a name="fig_625" id="fig_625"></a><a name="fig_626" id="fig_626"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/636.jpg" alt="FIG. 625. SQUARE OF NETTING BEGUN FROM THE MIDDLE. BEGUN." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 625. Square of netting begun from the middle. Begun.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
<img src="images/637.jpg" alt="FIG. 626. SQUARE OF NETTING BEGUN FROM THE MIDDLE. COMPLETED." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 626. Square of netting begun from the middle. Completed.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>Cast on the required number of loops, make an intake in
each row, by omitting to take
up the last loop of a row. In
coming back, your first knot
will thus be made over the
last loop but one of the previous
row, fig. <a href="#fig_625">625</a>. To complete
the square, fasten the
thread on again, to the end of
the thread of the last row,
then make a similar to it, and repeat the same rows you
made at the beginning (see fig. <a href="#fig_626">626</a>).</p>
<p><b>Stripes of straight netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_627">627</a> and <a href="#fig_628">628</a>).—These
can be begun and
finished in two
ways. The simplest
way, more especially
when they are
to be embroidered
afterwards, is to
cast on the necessary
number of
loops, to decrease
on one side by dropping a loop, fig. <a href="#fig_627">627</a>, or by joining two
loops together with a knot, fig. <a href="#fig_628">628</a>, and to increase on the
other side, by making two knots over one loop.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/638.jpg" alt="FIG. 627. STRIPE OF STRAIGHT NETTING EDGED WITH EMPTY LOOPS." title="" />
<a name="fig_627" id="fig_627"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 627. Stripe of straight netting edged with empty loops.</span>
</div>
<p>Great care must be taken not to change the order of the
intakes and increases, as any mistake of the kind would break
the lines of squares, and interfere with the subsequent embroidery,
unless there happened to be more loops in the stripe than
stitches in the pattern, in which case the superfluous loops
might be cut away when the embroidery is finished.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/639.jpg" alt="FIG. 628. STRIPE OF STRAIGHT NETTING." title="" />
<a name="fig_628" id="fig_628"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 628. Stripe of straight netting.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Straight netting with a scalloped edge</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_629">629</a>).—The
second way of making stripes of straight netting is to begin
by a square. After making two loops on the foundation loop,
make rows with increases, until you have the required number
of loops. Then make an increase in every row to the left and
leave the last loop empty in every row to the right. Continu<a name="Page_405" id="Page_405"></a>ing
the increases on the left, you net 4 rows, without increasing
or decreasing on the right, whilst in the next 4, you again
leave the outside loop empty.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<img src="images/640.jpg" alt="FIG. 629. STRAIGHT NETTING WITH A SCALLOPED EDGE." title="" />
<a name="fig_629" id="fig_629"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 629. Straight netting with a scalloped edge.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Square frame of netting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_630">630</a>).—Handkerchief, counterpane
and chair-back borders can be netted in one piece,
leaving an empty square in the centre. After casting on the
loops as for an ordinary square of netting, letter <i>a</i>, increase them
to double the number required
for the border. Thus, for example,
if the border is to consist
of 3 squares, you make 6
loops, then leave 3 loops empty
on the left and continue to
work to the right and decrease
to the left, up to the dotted line
from <i>c</i> to <i>c</i>. After this you begin
to decrease on the right and
increase on the left, up to the
dotted line from <i>e</i> to <i>e</i>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/641.jpg" alt="FIG. 630. SQUARE FRAME OF NETTING." title="" />
<a name="fig_630" id="fig_630"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 630. Square frame of netting.</span>
</div>
<p>Leaving the right side of
the net, you now fasten on the thread at <i>c</i>, where the 3 empty
loops are, and here you make your increases on the right side
and your intakes on the left, till you come to the corner, from
whence you decrease on the right and increase on the left, up
to letter <i>g</i>. Stop on the left side and then work from left to
<a name="Page_406" id="Page_406"></a>right, passing over the row that is marked <i>e</i>. The fourth corner,
letter <i>b</i>, is worked like any other piece of straight netting, with
an intake in each row, until there are only two loops left.</p>
<p><b>Diagonal netting with crossed loops</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_631">631</a> and <a href="#fig_632">632</a>).
To work this simple and effective pattern, begin by making
a stripe of plain netting, 14 loops in width, for the middle.
When it is long enough for your purpose, take up all the
loops on one side on a strong thread; fasten the work to the
cushion again
and work 3
rows, along
the other edge
in the following
manner.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/642.jpg" alt="FIG. 631. DIAGONAL NETTING WITH CROSSED LOOPS." title="" />
<a name="fig_631" id="fig_631"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 631. Diagonal netting with crossed loops.<br />
Original size.<br />Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 10 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 40.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br />
For the darning stitches: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 12
to 20, or Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 12 to 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>1st row—long
loops, to
be made by the
thread being
passed thrice
over the mesh.</p>
<p>2nd row—here,
3 loops
are so made as
to cross each
other, that is,
you begin by
putting your
netting-needle
at first into
the 3rd loop,
counting from left to right, then into the 1st, and lastly into
the middle one of the three, so that the right loop leans to the
left and the left one to the right.</p>
<p>3rd row—one plain loop in each of the loops of the previous
row. You now, draw out the thread, run in on the other
<a name="Page_407" id="Page_407"></a>side, and run it in through the loops last made, in order to
make 3 rows again, as above described, on the bottom side.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<img src="images/643.jpg" alt="FIG. 632. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 631." title="" />
<a name="fig_632" id="fig_632"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 632. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_631">631</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>When this is done, you begin the scallops, composed of
12 knots or 11 loops, or 14 loops and 15 knots = net 5 rows,
leaving the outside loops empty, fig. <a href="#fig_632">632</a>, stop on the left and
proceed with: 6 knots or 5 plain loops, 2 or 3 long loops with
3 overs, 3 plain loops = turn the work = 3 plain loops, 3
knots = turn the work = 2 loops with 3 overs, 3 knots =
turn the work = 2 plain loops, 2 knots = turn the work =
cross 2 or 3 loops, according to the number you crossed in the
middle, then carry the working thread to the middle of the
long loops, and connect them by 2 knots = pass the needle
under the knot of the last long loop, then, on the right side
<a name="Page_408" id="Page_408"></a>net: 3 plain loops = turn the work = 3 plain loops, 3 knots
= turn the work = 2 plain loops, 2 knots = turn the work
and continue the rows of plain netting until you have only 2
loops left.</p>
<p>To reach the next scallop, pass the netting-needle through
each hole of the net and round each thread.</p>
<p>Finish off the scallops with a row of plain netting, made
with a coarser thread than the foundation.</p>
<p>These netted edgings are generally made in unbleached
cotton, because the patterns afterwards embroidered upon
them in coarse, white knitting or darning cotton, show best
upon it. The thread for this purpose should be used double,
and the pattern worked in darning stitches, made over 8
squares of the netting; the 8th knot is then encircled by a loop
and the thread carried down over 8 squares and a loop again
<a name="Page_409" id="Page_409"></a>made round the 8th knot. After making 4 rows of stitches
on the netting, cut 3 bars between the rows of white stitches.</p>
<p>The row of openwork produced in this way has a very
good effect and greatly improves the look of the lace.</p>
<p><b>Netted fringe</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_633">633</a>).—Plain netting, pretty as it is,
looks rather poor, unless ornamented with embroidery of some
kind. The double netting, illustrated in fig. <a href="#fig_633">633</a>, will prove a
welcome novelty. The footing is worked in crochet, with braid,
secured on both sides by chain stitches.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/644.jpg" alt="FIG. 633. NETTED FRINGE." title="" />
<a name="fig_633" id="fig_633"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 633. Netted fringe.<br />
Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30 or
Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br />
For the fringes: Soutache D.M.C No. 3 or Lacets superfins D.M.C No. 4.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Into every fourth of these chain stitches, net one loop,
missing the 3 between. At the end of the row, turn the work
and make the knot in the middle of the 3 chain stitches, so
that the 2 loops of netting cross each other.</p>
<p>In the second, or rather the third row, the knots are again
made first into the
front loops, into those
of the first row that
is; in the fourth row,
into those of the second
row.</p>
<p>When the stripe
is sufficiently wide,
finish it off with
tassels, made of Soutache
D.M.C No. 3.
Instead of tying up
the lengths of braid
with a thread, twisted
round them and
fastened off with a
stitch, make 2 looped
knots round them with an end of the braid, where the neck
of the tassel should come.</p>
<p><b>Embroidered netting.</b>—Embroidered netting, also known
as Filet Guipure, Cluny Guipure, and Richelieu Guipure, is
a netted ground, with patterns of one kind or another, worked
upon it in a variety of stitches.</p>
<p><b>Implements required for embroidered netting.</b>—Be<a name="Page_410" id="Page_410"></a>sides
scissors, needles and thread, a light steel frame is the
only thing required,
and this renders embroidered
netting very
popular.</p>
<p>The needles should
be long, and blunt;
those called saddlers
needles are the best.</p>
<p><b>Wire frame for
embroidered netting</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_634">634</a>).—The frame
on which the net is
stretched should be
made of strong iron
wire, that will not bend
in the using. In shape,
it may be square or
oblong, according to
whether squares or edgings
are to be made
upon it, but the sides
must be straight, so
that the net can be
evenly stretched.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/645.jpg" alt="FIG. 634. WIRE FRAME FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING." title="" />
<a name="fig_634" id="fig_634"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 634. Wire frame for embroidered netting.</span>
</div>
<p>This wire frame
must be covered, first
with wadding or tow,
as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_634">634</a>,
and then with silk
ribbon, which must be
wound tightly round it,
and more particularly
at the corners, very
closely, so that it may be quite firm and not twist about when
the netting is sewn in. The ends of the ribbon should be secured
by two or three stitches.</p>
<p><b><a name="Mounting_the_netting_on_the_frame" id="Mounting_the_netting_on_the_frame"></a>Mounting the netting on the frame</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_635">635</a>).—When
<a name="Page_411" id="Page_411"></a>the netting is exactly the size of the inside of the frame, it need
only be secured to it with overcasting stitches, set very closely
at the corners.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/646.jpg" alt="FIG. 635. MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME." title="" />
<a name="fig_635" id="fig_635"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 635. Mounting the netting on the frame.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Mounting the netting on the frame with an auxiliary
tape</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_636">636</a>).—When the netting, is smaller, the space between
it and the frame, must be filled up with strong very
evenly woven, linen tape, sewn on all round the netting.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/647.jpg" alt="FIG. 636. MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME
WITH AN AUXILIARY TAPE." title="" />
<a name="fig_636" id="fig_636"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 636. Mounting the netting on the frame
with an auxiliary tape.</span>
</div>
<p>The tape must be very tightly held in the sewing, so
that it even forms little gathers all round; this will help you
to stretch the netting in mounting it without injuring it, and
is especially necessary when the netting is not quite evenly
made. Fig. <a href="#fig_636">636</a> shows how the tape is sewn on, the fold that
has to be made at the corners, and the way to fix the netting
into the frame.</p>
<p>Long stripes or large pieces of work, can be mounted on
waxcloth, but we cannot recommend shortening the preparatory
work in this manner, as the squares of netting are never so
regular as when they are made in a frame.</p>
<p><b>Materials for embroidered netting</b>.—Thick threads with
a strong twist are the best for darned, or embroidered netting,
such as Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> (crochet cotton), or Fil à
dentelle D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> (lace thread).</p>
<p>There are however certain old kinds of embroidered netting
made in soft loose silk, for imitating which it is best to use,
Coton à repriser D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> that being quite the best substitute
for the original material.</p>
<p><b>The stitches used for embroidered netting</b>.—These
are so multifarious and admit of so many different combinations,
that not a few of them seeing that be quite new to our readers,
willsome we have never yet come across in any book on
the subject that has come under our notice.</p>
<p><b>Ordinary darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_637">637</a>).—The simplest stitch
of all for covering a netted ground is the ordinary darning
stitch; drawing the thread, that is to say, in and out of the
number of squares, prescribed by the pattern, and backwards
and forwards as many times as is necessary to fill them up.</p>
<p><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/648.jpg" alt="FIG. 637.
ORDINARY DARNING STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_637" id="fig_637"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 637.
Ordinary darning stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>The number of stitches depends, to a certain extent, on the
material employed; with Coton à broder D.M.C for example,
you will have to make more stitches than with one of the
coarser numbers of Coton à repriser D.M.C.</p>
<p>This is the stitch generally used for reproducing a cross
stitch pattern on a netted ground and is especially to be recommended
for covering large surfaces, curtains, counterpanes and
so forth, as it is quickly done and shows up the pattern
well.</p>
<p><b>Linen stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_638">638</a> and <a href="#fig_639">639</a>).—This is the stitch most
often met with in the old embroideries, it being the one the
solid parts of the leaves and flowers, and the borders are generally
worked in.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a name="fig_638" id="fig_638"></a><a name="fig_639" id="fig_639"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/649.jpg" alt="FIG. 638.
LINEN STITCH. FIRST STITCHES." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 638.
Linen stitch. First stitches.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/650.jpg" alt="FIG. 639. LINEN STITCH.
SECOND STITCHES." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 639. Linen stitch.
Second stitches.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>Fasten on the thread to a knot of the netting and carry it
<a name="Page_413" id="Page_413"></a>twice to and fro, over and under the threads of the netting, so
that at the end of the row, every second thread passes under
and over the thread of the netting, as it is carried upwards again.</p>
<p>This constitutes the first layer of threads, the second completes
the linen stitch and is made in the same way, only across
the first, alternately taking up and missing a thread as is done,
in darning. The thread may also be carried both ways over the
threads of the squares. In this case you must draw an uneven
number of threads through the squares, otherwise the crossing
of the threads will be irregular in the last square.</p>
<p><b>Linen stitch. Formation of the corners</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_640">640</a>).—When
linen stitch is used for the border of a pattern, and a
corner has to be formed, you begin by carrying the threads
over a given number of squares. This first layer, especially
in the case of long stripes, must be kept very slack, and to ensure
the threads being all of the same length, lay a fine mesh or a
thick knitting needle at one end and stretch the threads over it.
After carrying the second layer across a few squares, take
away the mesh or needle. The threads of the first layer become
gradually shorter, from the passage of the cross threads in
and out between them, and end by being just long enough to
prevent the last embroidered squares from being too tightly
stretched.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/651.jpg" alt="FIG. 640. LINEN STITCH.
FORMATION OF THE CORNERS." title="" />
<a name="fig_640" id="fig_640"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 640. Linen stitch.
Formation of the corners.</span>
</div>
<p>On reaching the corner, you cross the threads of the next
row, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_640">640</a>. The first threads of the second side
form the foundation of the corner square; from the second corner
square you pass to the third; from the third to the fourth,
carrying your thread alternately over and under the threads that
were stretched for the first corner.</p>
<p><b>Loop stitch (point d'esprit)</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_641">641</a> and <a href="#fig_642">642</a>).—This
is a light open stitch, chiefly used for making a less transparent
foundation than plain netting. Fasten the thread to the middle
of one bar of the netting, then make a loose loop to the middle of
the top bar of the same square, fig. <a href="#fig_641">641</a>, by carrying the thread,
from left to right, over one vertical and one horizontal bar of
the net and inserting the needle downwards from above under
the bar and in front of the working thread. For the second
row back, also represented in fig. <a href="#fig_641">641</a>, you draw the needle
<a name="Page_414" id="Page_414"></a>through, underneath the bar above the loop stitch and make
the loop upwards from below; in doing this the working thread
must lie to the left, in front of the needle. Fig. <a href="#fig_642">642</a> shows how
to join the rows and pass the needle through the stitches of
the preceding row.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a name="fig_641" id="fig_641"></a><a name="fig_642" id="fig_642"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/652.jpg" alt="FIG. 641. LOOP STITCH.
1ST AND 2ND COURSE OF THE THREAD." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 641. Loop stitch.
1st and 2nd course of the thread.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/653.jpg" alt="FIG. 642. LOOP STITCH.
SEVERAL ROWS COMPLETED." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 642. Loop stitch.
Several rows completed.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Star_composed_of_loose_threads" id="Star_composed_of_loose_threads"></a>Star composed of loose threads</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_643">643</a>, <a href="#fig_644">644</a>, <a href="#fig_645">645</a>).—This
star covers 16 squares of netting. Fasten the thread to the
middle knot of the 16 squares, then carry it diagonally over
4 squares, three times from left to right under a knot of the
foundation and three times from right to left. In this way, the
bottom rays of the star are formed. For the stitches that complete
the figure, you start from the middle and following the
direction of the little arrow in the illustration, you cover the
<a name="Page_415" id="Page_415"></a>netting with 3 horizontal and 3
vertical threads, carried over 4
squares. When you have laid the
vertical threads, slip the needle
4 or 5 times round in a circle, under
the diagonal and over the
straight threads, but always over
the bars of the netting. This completes
the star, as it is represented
in fig. <a href="#fig_645">645</a>. Care must be taken
to make the stitches lie quite flat
side by side, and not one on the
top of the other.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a name="fig_643" id="fig_643"></a><a name="fig_644" id="fig_644"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 240px;">
<img src="images/654.jpg" alt="FIG. 643.
STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS
LAYING THE UNDERNEATH THREADS." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 643.
Star formed of loose threads
laying the underneath threads.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/655.jpg" alt="FIG. 644.
STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS.
LAYING THE UPPER THREADS." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 644.
Star formed of loose threads.
Laying the upper threads.</span>
</div>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/656.jpg" alt="FIG. 645.
STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS.
FINISHED." title="" />
<a name="fig_645" id="fig_645"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 645.
Star formed of loose threads.
Finished.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Darning stitch (point de reprise)</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_646">646</a> and <a href="#fig_647">647</a>).—Little
flowers and leaves are generally executed in this stitch;
the first course of the thread is shown in fig. <a href="#fig_646">646</a>. Leaves can
be made with one, two or three veins. Carry the needle, invariably
from the middle, first to the right and then to the left,
under the threads of the foundation and push the stitches close
together, as they are made, with the point of your needle. This
you will be able to do most easily by holding the work so as
to make the stitches towards you.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a name="fig_646" id="fig_646"></a><a name="fig_647" id="fig_647"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/657.jpg" alt="FIG. 646.
LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING STITCH.
BEGUN." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 646.
Leaves worked in darning stitch.
Begun.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/658.jpg" alt="FIG. 647.
LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING STITCH.
COMPLETED." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 647.
Leaves worked in darning stitch.
Completed.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>For a leaf with only one division or vein, like the left leaf
in fig. <a href="#fig_646">646</a>, merely run the needle through the middle of the
threads, whereas for a leaf with two or three veins, you must
<a name="Page_416" id="Page_416"></a>run it, over and under, either one, or two threads (see the
right leaf in fig. <a href="#fig_646">646</a>).</p>
<p>In working leaves of this kind in darning stitch, you must
draw your stitches at the top and bottom of the leaf rather
tighter than in the middle, so as to give them the proper shape.
If you wish to make them very slender at the bottom, you can
finish them off with a few overcasting stitches.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_647">647</a> represents two leaves completed, one with one vein
and the other, with two.</p>
<p><b>Pointed scallops in darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_648">648</a>).—The simplest
way to work these scallops is to carry a thread, as shown
in the illustration, to and fro over the square, from the knot in
one corner to the middle of the bar above and downwards to
the opposite knot, round which the thread is carried and passed
upwards again to the middle. As the scallop must always be
begun from the top, you will have, two foundation threads on
one side and three on the other. Here likewise, you must
push the threads as closely together as possible with the needle.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/659.jpg" alt="FIG. 648. POINTED SCALLOPS IN
DARNING STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_648" id="fig_648"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 648. Pointed scallops in
darning stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Pointed scallops in buttonhole stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_649">649</a>).—Another
quite as pretty and easy way of working pointed scallops
on a netted foundation is by making two buttonhole stitches
before crossing to the opposite side. As shown in the foregoing
illustration, you begin by stretching single or double foundation
threads across; then beginning at the point, you make,
alternately right and left, 2 buttonhole stitches over the foundation
threads, so that the working thread is only carried across
to the opposite side after every second stitch.</p><p><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/660.jpg" alt="FIG. 649. POINTED SCALLOPS IN
BUTTONHOLE STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_649" id="fig_649"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 649. Pointed scallops in
buttonhole stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Veined pointed scallops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_650">650</a>).—A third way of making
pointed scallops is by first stretching a thread to and fro across
the middle of the square, after which you slip the needle from
left to right under the middle thread, and underneath the
left bar from above. Then you carry the needle, from right to
left, over the foundation thread and under the right bar and
so on. The one thread must be drawn tightly round the other,
in order that the stitches may form close and evenly shaped
veins, like small cords, on the wrong side of the scallop. There
must be enough stitches to completely cover the foundation
thread that crosses the middle of the square.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/661.jpg" alt="FIG. 650. VEINED POINTED SCALLOPS." title="" />
<a name="fig_650" id="fig_650"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 650. Veined pointed scallops.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Pointed scallops in Venetian stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_651">651</a>).—The
prettiest scallops of all are those worked in Venetian stitch.
You begin, by making from 8 to 10 buttonhole stitches over
one bar of the netting, then you work on with the same stitch
backwards and forwards, making one stitch less in each row,
until you come to the one which forms the point of the scallop
and is fastened to the bar above; you carry the working thread
back on the wrong side to the lower bar, and then under the
buttonhole stitches to the next square of the netting. Scallops
worked in this manner, can be overcast round the edges in
the way described further on, in fig. <a href="#fig_660">660</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/662.jpg" alt="FIG. 651. POINTED SCALLOPS IN VENETIAN STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_651" id="fig_651"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 651. Pointed scallops in venetian stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Wheels embroidered on netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_652">652</a> and <a href="#fig_653">653</a>).—To
make wheels or spiders, as they are also called, you have first
to fasten the thread to the middle knot of four squares, thence
you carry it diagonally right and left, fig. <a href="#fig_652">652</a>, right detail,
across the empty squares of netting and the knot, and return
<a name="Page_418" id="Page_418"></a>to the middle, overcasting your first thread by the way, so as
to form a closely twisted cord. This is called cording a thread.</p>
<p>Having reached the centre, carry the working thread round
and round, under and over the corded threads and under the
bars of the netting till the wheel covers half the bars.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a name="fig_652" id="fig_652"></a><a name="fig_653" id="fig_653"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/663.jpg" alt="FIG. 652.
LAYING THE THREADS FOR A WHEEL
AND BEGINNING OF THE WHEEL." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 652.
Laying the threads for a wheel
and beginning of the wheel.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/664.jpg" alt="FIG. 653.
WHEELS WORKED IN
TWO WAYS." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 653.
Wheels worked in
two ways.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_653">653</a> shows, on the right, a finished wheel, and on the
left, another way in which it can be made, and indicates the
course of the thread over and under the lines, as in a darn.
These details show also how, when the foundation thread of the
wheel starts from a corner, it is left single in the first square
until the wheel is finished; then the needle is slipped back
along the little spoke, opposite to the single thread, and through
the wheel, and the single thread is corded like the others.</p>
<p><b>Ribbed wheels</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_654">654</a>).—Make the foundation of the
wheels as before, over 8 threads. To form the ribs at the back
of the wheels, see fig. <a href="#fig_654">654</a>; make a back stitch, on the right
side, over a bar of the netting, and carry on the needle under
one bar, so that the thread that lies outside always crosses 2
bars of the netting.</p><p><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/665.jpg" alt="FIG. 654.
RIBBED WHEELS." title="" />
<a name="fig_654" id="fig_654"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 654.
Ribbed wheels.</span>
</div>
<p>In this case you must make circles of thread enough, to cover
the bars completely, not half, as before.</p>
<p>The same stitches, as fig. <a href="#fig_654">654</a> shows, can be made on
either side of
the embroidery,
and so as
to form, either
a square or a
lozenge (see
fig. <a href="#fig_655">655</a>).</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/666.jpg" alt="FIG. 655.
RIBBED SQUARES OR LOZENGES." title="" />
<a name="fig_655" id="fig_655"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 655.
Ribbed squares or lozenges.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Wheels set
with buttonholing</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_656">656</a>).—A very
pretty lace-like
effect is produced
by encircling the wheels in large squares of netting with
a double setting of stitches. The left detail of fig. <a href="#fig_656">656</a> shows
how the thread, having
been passed under the
wheel and twisted once
round the single thread,
is carried all round the
square and forms 8 loops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/667.jpg" alt="FIG. 656. WHEELS SET WITH BUTTONHOLING." title="" />
<a name="fig_656" id="fig_656"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 656. Wheels set with buttonholing.</span>
</div>
<p>The arrow shows the
way in which the loops
are taken up, and the first
ring of stitches round the
wheel is finished.</p>
<p>The second detail of
the same figure explains
the course the thread, that
forms the second ring,
has to take through the loops and between the bars; whilst
the white line shows the passage of the thread over the second
ring. The third detail represents a wheel, completed.</p>
<p><b>Star with one-sided buttonhole stitches</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_657">657</a>).—The
pattern represented in fig. <a href="#fig_657">657</a>, is the quickest to work that we
<a name="Page_420" id="Page_420"></a>know of. Two buttonhole stitches made upon the outside bar
of a square and a simple crossing of the thread at the bottom,
produce elongated triangles which should always be begun
from the knot. Two triangles
stand exactly opposite to each
other in one square, and the
square that comes in the
middle of the four thus filled,
is ornamented with a small
wheel.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/668.jpg" alt="FIG. 657. STAR WITH ONE-SIDED BUTTONHOLE STITCHES." title="" />
<a name="fig_657" id="fig_657"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 657. Star with one-sided buttonhole stitches.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Rounded corners of
netting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_658">658</a>).—Darning
stitches, made over a thread
carried diagonally across one
square and the adjacent corners
of that and two other
squares, produce the figure
illustrated in fig. <a href="#fig_658">658</a>. The
accompanying detail shows
the mode of working.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/668a.jpg" alt="FIG. 658.
ROUNDED CORNERS ON NETTING." title="" />
<a name="fig_658" id="fig_658"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 658.
Rounded corners on netting.</span>
</div>
<p>The number of stitches
depends on the material you
use; there should be no more
than can lie quite flat, side by
side, on the diagonal thread.</p>
<p><b>Linen stitch, set with
darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_659">659</a>).—There
are some patterns it
would hardly be possible to
work on netting unless you
could soften the outlines by
darning stitches, as shown in the foregoing figure.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/668b.jpg" alt="FIG. 659.
LINEN STITCH SET WITH DARNING STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_659" id="fig_659"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 659.
Linen stitch set with darning stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>When employed as a setting to linen stitch, there should
be fewer than in fig. <a href="#fig_658">658</a>; you may also, instead of interrupting
them at every corner, carry them all round a square, (see
the right detail of the figure).</p>
<p><b>Linen stitch set with cord stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_660">660</a>).—Many
figures are also either corded or edged with twisted thread;
<a name="Page_421" id="Page_421"></a>both ways are represented in the illustration. In the latter case
you can use the same thread as for the linen stitch, or if you
wish the setting to be very pronounced, a thicker one. For
instance, if the netting be made of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
No. 25<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> we recommend Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 15 or 20<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>
for the setting. This difference of material is especially noticeable
in the old Cluny Guipure, where the figures worked
in linen stitch are edged
with a thread like a cord.
But if the linen stitch be bound
with cord stitch, the same
thread must be used for it, as
for the foundation. A soft material,
like Coton à repriser,
makes the best padding for
the overcasting stitches.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/668c.jpg" alt="FIG. 660.
LINEN STITCH SET WITH CORD STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_660" id="fig_660"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 660.
Linen stitch set with cord stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Flower in dot stitch on a foundation of linen stitch</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_661">661</a>).—With the help of this stitch, which is described
in the chapter on white embroidery and represented in fig. <a href="./chapter_5.html#fig_179">179</a>, a great
variety of little
supplementary
ornaments can
be made, on
every description
of netted
ground.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/668d.jpg" alt="FIG. 661. FLOWER IN DOT STITCH ON A
FOUNDATION OF LINEN STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_661" id="fig_661"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 661. Flower in dot stitch on a
foundation of linen stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Bordering
in buttonhole
stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_662">662</a>).—Scalloped edges in netting should be buttonholed;
2 or 3 padding threads should be run in first, following
the bars of the netting, over which the buttonholing is done;
the bars of the netting must not be cut away until the edge
be finished.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/668e.jpg" alt="FIG. 662. BORDERING IN BUTTONHOLE STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_662" id="fig_662"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 662. Bordering in buttonhole stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Cut work in embroidered netting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_663">663</a>).—Cut work
here means half covering the bars of the netting with button-<a name="Page_422" id="Page_422"></a>hole
stitches and half cutting
them away with scissors.
The inner bars are frequently
ornamented with a
double buttonhole edging
and knotted picots, see figs.
<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_698">698</a> and <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_699">699</a> in the next
chapter. You slightly separate
the stitches of the first
row of buttonholing so as to
be able to introduce the thread of the second row between them.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/669.jpg" alt="FIG. 663. CUT WORK IN EMBROIDERED NETTING." title="" />
<a name="fig_663" id="fig_663"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 663. Cut work in embroidered netting.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Straight loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_664">664</a>).—In the first row you
carry the thread over one bar and slip it through behind a knot;
in the second you do the same thing, only that above, your
needle will pass under 3 threads, two of them the threads of the
loop of the first row and the third a bar of the net. In every
square 4 threads cross each other.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/670.jpg" alt="FIG. 664. STRAIGHT LOOP STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_664" id="fig_664"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 664. Straight loop stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Waved stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_665">665</a>).—This stitch, which forms a close
waved ground, is produced by passing the thread in each row
of the netting over a square and behind a knot. When the pattern
admits of it, as it mostly does, a considerably thicker thread
is used for this stitch and for the stitches represented in figs.
<a href="#fig_667">667</a>, <a href="#fig_668">668</a>, <a href="#fig_669">669</a> and <a href="#fig_670">670</a>, than that in which the netting is made.
When the netted ground is of Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 50,<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423"></a>
the embroidery upon it may very well be done in Cordonnet
6 fils. D.M.C No. 10<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, or Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/671.jpg" alt="FIG. 665. WAVED STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_665" id="fig_665"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 665. Waved stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Intersected loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_666">666</a>).—Begin by covering
the whole surface to be embroidered with plain loop stitches,
then stretch threads diagonally across the squares of the
netting and the loop stitches; one set of threads running over
the stitches and under the knots of the netting, the other
under the first and second threads of the loop stitches and over
the first crossed threads and the knots.</p>
<p>The laying and stretching of these threads must, it is hardly
necessary to say, be systematically and regularly done.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/672.jpg" alt="FIG. 666. INTERSECTED LOOP STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_666" id="fig_666"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 666. Intersected loop stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Ground_worked_in" id="Ground_worked_in"></a>Ground worked in horizontal
lines</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_667">667</a>).—Make
half cross stitches over
4 squares of netting, by passing
the thread alternately
over and under 3 knots, and
under 3 squares of the netting.
In the second row, cross
the threads over those of the
first row, as is shown in our
engraving.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/673.jpg" alt="FIG. 667. GROUND WORKED IN HORIZONTAL LINES." title="" />
<a name="fig_667" id="fig_667"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 667. Ground worked in horizontal lines.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ground worked in stitches
placed one above the
other</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_668">668</a>).—Cover a
whole row of squares with
cross stitches and leave 3 rows of squares empty. When you have
a sufficient number of rows of cross stitches, take a long needle
and pass it upwards from below, and from right to left, under
the two bars of the third upper square; then pass downwards
to the first square of the 3 bottom rows and under the bars
from right to left, so as again to leave 3 squares between the
fresh stitches. The next row of stitches is made in the same
manner, so that the stitches are not only set contrary ways but
reciprocally cover each other.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/674.jpg" alt="FIG. 668. GROUND WORKED IN STITCHES PLACED ONE ABOVE THE OTHER." title="" />
<a name="fig_668" id="fig_668"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 668. Ground worked in stitches placed one above the other.</span>
</div>
<p><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424"></a></p>
<p><b>Latticed ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_669">669</a>).—Begin by running the thread,
to and fro, under two vertical bars and over three horizontal
ones. When the ground is entirely covered, carry your thread
from right to left, under the bars over which the first rows of
threads are crossed; then take it over the long crosses, that
correspond to 5 squares of netting, and pass it in the same line
under the bars of the netting. In coming back, the long stitches
cross each other over the stitches of the first rows.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/675.jpg" alt="FIG. 669. LATTICED GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_669" id="fig_669"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 669. Latticed ground.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ground worked in Russian stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_670">670</a>).—Pass the
thread from left to right, under a bar of the netting, carry it
downwards over 4 squares and pass it again, from left to right,
under the bar, then upwards, again over 4 squares of netting
and so on. The stitches of the next rows are made in the same
<a name="Page_425" id="Page_425"></a>manner; you have only to see that the loops formed by the
stitches all come on the same line of knots.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/676.jpg" alt="FIG. 670. GROUND WORKED IN RUSSIAN STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_670" id="fig_670"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 670. Ground worked in russian stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ground worked in two sizes of thread</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_671">671</a>).—Herewith
begins the series of stitches,
referred to at the beginning of the
chapter, copied in part from one of
the oldest and most curious pieces
of embroidered netting we have ever
met with. The copies were worked
with Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No.
25 and écru Fil à dentelle D.M.C
No. 70<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>; the former being used for
the darning and the almond-shaped
stitches between; the latter for the
buttonhole stitches. Wherever two
sizes of thread are used for one pattern, all the stitches in the
coarse thread should be put in first and those in the fine, last.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/677.jpg" alt="FIG. 671. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD." title="" />
<a name="fig_671" id="fig_671"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 671. Ground worked in two sizes of thread.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ground with wheels and loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_672">672</a>).—You
begin with the coarse thread and
finish all the wheels first, making
them each over 4 threads of the
netting; then with the fine thread,
you make loop stitches between
them, in rows, as shown in figs.
<a href="#fig_641">641</a> and <a href="#fig_642">642</a>.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/678.jpg" alt="FIG. 672. GROUND WITH WHEELS AND LOOP STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_672" id="fig_672"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 672. Ground with wheels and loop stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ground worked in darning
and loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_673">673</a>).—The
darning stitches are made in the
coarse thread, over 4 squares of
the netting, in a horizontal direction,
with loop stitches, in the
fine thread, made between them, over the same number of
squares.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/679.jpg" alt="FIG. 673. GROUND WORKED IN DARNING AND LOOP STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_673" id="fig_673"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 673. Ground worked in darning and loop stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ground worked in two sizes of thread</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_674">674</a>).—Carry
the coarse thread, from right to left, under the first
knot of the netting, and then under the next, from left to
<a name="Page_426" id="Page_426"></a>right. This has to be done
twice, to and fro, so that the
squares of the netting are
edged on both sides with a
double layer of threads.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/680.jpg" alt="FIG. 674. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD." title="" />
<a name="fig_674" id="fig_674"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 674. Ground worked in two sizes of thread.</span>
</div>
<p>When the whole foundation
has been thus covered,
take the fine thread and make
loop stitches in the squares
between the other rows of
stitches, passing the needle
for that purpose over the double
stitch. Lastly, intersect the
loop stitches with straight
threads and pass the needle each time through the knot of
the netting.</p>
<p><b>Ground worked with cross stitches in one size of thread</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_675">675</a>).—This pattern, very like the foregoing one, consists
of 3 diagonal rows of stitches, worked to and fro, with cross
stitches made over them.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/681.jpg" alt="FIG. 675. GROUND WORKED WITH CROSS STITCHES IN ONE SIZE OF THREAD." title="" />
<a name="fig_675" id="fig_675"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 675. Ground worked with cross stitches in one size of thread.</span>
</div>
<p>You may also begin with the cross stitches, in the fine
thread, and work the triple stitches over them, in the coarse.</p>
<p><b>Ground worked with darning and cord stitches</b> (fig.<a name="Page_427" id="Page_427"></a>
<a href="#fig_676">676</a>).—Patterns, executed chiefly in darning stitches, in a
comparatively coarse thread, present a closer and heavier
appearance than those we have been describing. Here, every
other square of the netting is filled, as closely as possible, with
stitches; the empty squares between are intersected diagonally
with corded threads.</p>
<p><b>Ground worked with squares and wheels</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_677">677</a>, <a href="#fig_678">678</a>,
<a href="#fig_679">679</a>).—A ground very often met
with in old embroidered netting,
consists of diagonal lines of squares,
closely filled with darning stitches,
alternating with diagonal lines of
squares, each with a small wheel
in the middle.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
<a name="fig_676" id="fig_676"></a><a name="fig_677" id="fig_677"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/682.jpg" alt="FIG. 676. GROUND WORKED WITH DARNING AND CORD STITCHES." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 676. Ground worked with darning and cord stitches.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/683.jpg" alt="FIG. 677. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 677. Ground worked with squares and wheels.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_678">678</a>, the darning stitches,
and the wheels, which are both
worked with the same material,
cover 4 squares of the netting.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a name="fig_678" id="fig_678"></a><a name="fig_679" id="fig_679"></a>
<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/684.jpg" alt="FIG. 678. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 678. Ground worked with squares and wheels.</span>
</div>
<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/685.jpg" alt="FIG. 679.
GROUND WITH LARGE WHEELS." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 679.
Ground with large wheels.</span>
</div>
</div>
<p>Larger expanses of netting may
also be entirely filled with wheels,
fig. <a href="#fig_679">679</a>. To make a really satisfactory grounding of this kind,
you should be careful always to carry your thread over the
bars of the netting and under the threads that are stretched
diagonally across.</p><p><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428"></a></p>
<p><b>Ground worked in cross and darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_680">680</a>).—You
begin, as before, by making the close darning stitches,
and then proceed to the cross stitches. To give them the right
shape, finish all the rows of
stitches one way first; in the
subsequent rows, that cross
the first ones, you introduce
the thread between the stitches
that were first crossed.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
<img src="images/686.jpg" alt="FIG. 680.
GROUND WORKED IN CROSS AND
DARNING STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_680" id="fig_680"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 680.
Ground worked in cross and
darning stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ground of geometrical
figures</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_681">681</a>).—This pattern,
quite different from all
the others, consists of simple
geometrical lines. Fasten the
thread to a knot of the netting,
then carry it, always diagonally,
under 3 other knots
and repeat this 3 times, after which, carry it once round the
bar of the netting, to fasten it, and back again to the knot
which it already encircles, and from thence begin a new square.
Owing to your having always to bring
the thread back to the knot whence
the next square is to begin, you will
have 4 threads on two of the sides
and 6 on the two others.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/687.jpg" alt="FIG. 681. GROUND OF GEOMETRICAL FIGURES." title="" />
<a name="fig_681" id="fig_681"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 681. Ground of geometrical figures.</span>
</div>
<p>In the second and subsequent
rows, the needle has to pass twice
under the angles that were first formed,
in order that, over the whole
surface, all the corners may be equally
covered and connected.</p>
<p><b>Netted insertion worked in
plain darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_682">682</a>).—The taste for ornamenting
not only curtains but bed and table linen also, with lace and
insertion of all kinds, to break the monotony of the large white
surfaces, is becoming more and more general and the insertion
here described will be welcome to such of our readers as have
neither time nor patience for work of a more elaborate nature.</p><p><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="./images/full_688.jpg"><img src="images/688.jpg" alt="FIG. 682. NETTED INSERTION WORKED IN PLAIN DARNING STITCH." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_682" id="fig_682"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 682. Netted insertion worked in plain darning stitch.<br />
Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25.—For the
darning stitch: Coton à broder D.M.C No. 25, or Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 12
to 50, white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>The way to make straight
netting has already been fully
described in figs. <a href="#fig_625">625</a>, <a href="#fig_626">626</a>,
<a href="#fig_627">627</a>, <a href="#fig_628">628</a>, <a href="#fig_629">629</a> and <a href="#fig_630">630</a>, and
darning stitch in fig. <a href="#fig_637">637</a>.</p>
<p>To those who wish to be
saved the trouble of making
the netting themselves, we can
strongly recommend various
fabrics, intended to take its
place, more especially Filet
Canevas, which is an exact
imitation of the finest hand-made
netting. The centre part
of the pattern in fig. <a href="#fig_682">682</a>, is worked in rows of horizontal
darning stitches, the narrow border in vertical ones.</p>
<p><b><a name="Ground_of_netting_embroidered" id="Ground_of_netting_embroidered"></a>Ground of netting embroidered</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_683">683</a>).—We have
already had occasion, in the foregoing explanations, to point
out the advantage of embroidering with two sizes of thread,
but it is only in a piece of work of a certain size that it is
possible really to judge of the excellent effect produced by the
use of two threads of different sizes.</p>
<p><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/689.jpg" alt="FIG. 683. EMBROIDERED GROUND OF NETTING." title="" />
<a name="fig_683" id="fig_683"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 683. Embroidered ground of netting.<br />
Materials</span>—For the netting: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.<br />
For the darning stitch: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15, or Fil à pointer D.M.C
No. 30.—For the loop stitch: Fil à dentelle D.M.C or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
according to the size of the netting thread.</span>
</div>
<p>The principal lines of the pattern, which are in darning
stitch, are worked in a very coarse thread with a strong twist,
Fil à pointer D.M.C, whilst the loop stitches are in Cordonnet
6 fils D.M.C.</p><p><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431"></a></p>
<p>Our model was worked in écru thread but there is nothing
to prevent several colours being introduced, for instance écru,
black or Gris-Ficelle 462 for the netted foundation; Rouge-Cardinal
346, for the darning stitches, and Chiné d'or D.M.C
green and gold or blue and gold, for the loop stitches and the
threads that are carried across inside.</p>
<p><b>Embroidered square of netting with two kinds of
lace suitable for the border</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>, <a href="#fig_685">685</a>, <a href="#fig_686">686</a>).—Large
pieces of embroidered netting are generally made up of squares
<a name="Page_432" id="Page_432"></a>and stripes, joined together with ribbon and fine linen insertions.
It is easier and less cumbrous to make the netting in separate
pieces. Squares of different patterns can also be combined with
crochet and pillow lace, in this case of course the squares
have to be arranged with some system.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/690.jpg" alt="FIG. 684. EMBROIDERED SQUARE OF NETTING." title="" />
<a name="fig_684" id="fig_684"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 684. Embroidered square of netting.<br />
Materials</span>: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C
Nos. 15 to 40, white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_685">685</a> represents a lace edging intended for the square
fig. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>, which shows how even in such a simple pattern as
this, several colours may be successfully introduced.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;">
<img src="images/691.jpg" alt="FIG. 685. LACE EDGING FOR THE SQUARE, FIG. 684" title="" />
<a name="fig_685" id="fig_685"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 685. Lace edging for the square, fig. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>.<br />
Materials:</span> The same as for fig. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>, and Or fin
D.M.C pour la broderie No. 30.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>—For the netting and the loop stitch:
White or écru.—For the darning stitch:
Brun-Caroubier 303 and Rouge-Grenat 335.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_686">686</a> is a handsomer and more elaborate pattern for
the same kind of purpose. The loop stitches and the linen
stitches should be
worked in a very
light shade; instead
of the colour indicated
at the foot of the
engraving, Rouge-Géranium
353, Violet-Mauve
377 or
Jaune-Rouille 365
may be used; for
the netting and the
loop stitches you
may combine, with
the first shade, two
shades of Brun-Caroubier
303 and 357, with
the second, two shades
of Jaune-vieil Or 678
and 680 and with the
third, two shades of
Rouge-Cardinal 346 and
348.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/692.jpg" alt="FIG. 686. LACE EDGING." title="" />
<a name="fig_686" id="fig_686"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 686. Lace edging.<br />
Materials</span>: The same as for <a href="#fig_684">684</a>.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>—For the netting: écru.—For the
ground in loop and linen stitch:
Bleu pâle 668.—For the bars in darning stitch:
Gris-Tilleul 391 and 393.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><b>Pattern for ground</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_687">687</a>).—The peculiar
charm of this most
unpretending pattern is
<a name="Page_433" id="Page_433"></a>chiefly due to the variety of material and colour introduced
into it. The netted ground is made of dark brown Cordonnet
6 fils D.M.C No. 25, worked over, in the first instance, with
loop stitches in a pale grey, which are afterwards connected
by darning stitches in Coton à repriser Gris-Tilleul 392.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/693.jpg" alt="FIG. 687. PATTERN FOR GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_687" id="fig_687"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 687. Pattern for ground.<br />
Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30.
For the embroidery: Coton à repriser D.M.C No. 25.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Brun-Havane 455, Gris-Noisette 423, Jaune-vieil-Or 680,
Gris-Tilleul 391 and Rouge-Géranium 352.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>The same material in Rouge-Géranium, is used for the
little centre squares and the pink crosses, and isolated darned
squares are framed with loose cord stitches in Coton à repriser
colour Jaune-vieil-Or 680.</p>
<p><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434"></a></p>
<p>We can also recommend, for the same pattern, the following
combination of colours, all to be found on the D.M.C colour
card; namely, Bleu pâle 668 for the netting; Chiné d'or, gold
with dark blue for the loop stitches; Ganse turque D.M.C No. 12
(Turkish gold cord) for the darning stitches, between the loop
stitches; Coton à broder or Cordonnet 6 fils in Rouge-Cornouille
450, for the detached darned squares and Coton à repriser, in
Jaune-d'Or 667 for the setting of all the different parts of the
pattern.</p>
<p><b>Embroidery on netting with different-sized loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_688">688</a>).—The netting, described and represented in fig. <a href="#fig_620">620</a>,
with plain, oblong and double loops, here forms the ground
for the embroidery.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/694.jpg" alt="FIG. 688. EMBROIDERY ON NETTING WITH DIFFERENT-SIZED LOOPS." title="" />
<a name="fig_688" id="fig_688"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 688. Embroidery on netting with different-sized loops. <br />
Materials</span>—For the netting: Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 40.
For the embroidery: Coton à broder D.M.C No. 16, white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>In order to make the isolated loop stitches, the thread
which forms the cross in the middle must be carried to the
<a name="Page_435" id="Page_435"></a>middle of the bar, the loops that form the stitches must be
finished and the thread carried back to the knot whence it
started. It must then be taken three times backwards and for<a name="Page_436" id="Page_436"></a>wards
over the foundation thread and the two bars of the netting,
when the stitches, into and over 3 squares of the netting,
should be made. The last row in the engraving shows the
pattern in the successive stages of its development.</p>
<p><b>Square and edging in cut netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_689">689</a> and <a href="#fig_690">690</a>).—Few
patterns admit of such a successful application of all the
stitches hitherto described, as the square and edging presented
to our readers in the two subjoined figures. On a netted ground
of rather fine thread, we have in the first place, linen stitch, in
the border, worked in rather a coarser thread than the ground;
then raised wheels, buttonholed bars with picots in the centre,
<a name="Page_437" id="Page_437"></a>plain wheels very close together, and long ribbed bars worked
in darning stitch.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="./images/full_695.jpg"><img src="images/695.jpg" alt="FIG. 689. SQUARE IN CUT NETTING." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_689" id="fig_689"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 689. Square in cut netting.</span>
</div>
<p>The edging, to match the square, is worked in the original
in pale shades, in contrast to the square which is executed
entirely in écru thread. The squares in the netted footing of
the lace are loosely overcast with pale Violet-Mauve 316, the
same colour is also used for the wheels in the outside edge,
each of which fills a square, and for the loop stitches round
them; whilst the middle one of the three upper ribbed wheels
and the star are worked in dark Violet-Mauve 315. The
crosses in linen stitch, the three lower ribbed wheels and
<a name="Page_438" id="Page_438"></a>the long ribbed bars in darning stitch, are in Gris-Tilleul
392.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_690" id="fig_690"></a>
<a href="./images/full_696.jpg"><img src="images/696.jpg" alt="FIG. 690. LACE EDGING IN CUT NETTING.
MATERIALS: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, in three shades of one colour." title="" /></a>
<span class="caption"><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 690. Lace edging in cut netting.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, in three shades of one colour.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Netted_insertion" id="Netted_insertion"></a>Netted insertion</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_691">691</a>).—This is a copy of a beautiful
piece of embroidered netting, to all appearance, several centuries
old, and in a state that rendered, even the most delicate
handling almost impossible.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_697.jpg"><img src="images/697.jpg" alt="FIG. 691. NETTING INSERTION" title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_691" id="fig_691"></a><span class="caption"><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 691. Netting insertion</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 40 white or écru.
—For the embroidery: Ganse turque D.M.C Nos. 6 and 12.</span>
</div>
<p>After several experiments, the best result has been arrived
at, and the Turkish cord in which the original is made, has
now been manufactured for netting purposes, as well as for
other kinds of decorative work, already alluded to, and referred
to again later on.</p>
<p>The first foundation, that is, the actual netting, for a thing
of this kind, should be made in white or écru thread, with very
small meshes; the pattern itself is embroidered on the netting
with Ganse turque D.M.C No. 12; this material, écru and
gold mixed, gives the work a glittering and peculiarly elegant
appearance, unobtainable in any other.</p>
<p>The execution is extremely easy, it being worked entirely
in darning stitch; but the drawing should be copied with great
accuracy and the wide braid very carefully sewn on with close
stitches round the squares, which are filled in with darning
stitches made in Ganse turque No. 12.</p>
<p>Any netting pattern can be copied in this braid, and the
simplest piece of work of the kind is worth mounting on a rich
foundation of silk, brocade, velvet or plush. To give a single
example, the insertion here described and illustrated, was
mounted on slate-blue plush and has been universally admired.</p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_13.html">Next Chapter.</a></p>
<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents.</a></p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label">[A]</span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes
and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div>
</div>
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