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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:29:02 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:29:02 -0700 |
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diff --git a/old/20776-h/chapter_12.html b/old/20776-h/chapter_12.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5d7656c --- /dev/null +++ b/old/20776-h/chapter_12.html @@ -0,0 +1,1880 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + clear: both; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .caption {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; + position: relative; + bottom: 0.33em; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<p><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395"></a></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/621.jpg" alt="INSERTION IN EMBROIDERED NETTING.—ORNAMENT WITH VARIOUS STITCHES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Insertion in embroidered netting.—Ornament with various stitches.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> + +<h2><a name="Netting" id="Netting"></a>Netting.</h2> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> + + +<p>Netting is a handicraft, so ancient that it would be difficult +to trace it to its origin, or determine the date of its invention. +There is evidence to show that the making of nets for fishing +and game catching was as familiar to the earlier races of mankind +as it is to us.</p> + +<p>Practised in the first instance for the wants of life, it by +degrees developed into an art, in conjunction with embroidery, +to which it was made to serve as a foundation. The netting of +every country, almost, has a distinctive character of its own: +that of Persia is known by its fine silken meshes and rich +gold and silver embroidery; that of Italy, by the varied size +and shape of its meshes and a resemblance in the style of its +embroidery to the Punto tagliato; whilst the netting of +France, known by the name of Cluny guipure, consists of a +groundwork of fine meshes with stiff close designs embroidered +upon it, outlined in coarse glazed thread.</p> + +<p>Netting, which divides itself under two headings, netting +proper, or plain netting and net embroidery, has never yet +gone out of fashion and places are still to be found where the +entire population is engaged in this industry.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Plain_netting" id="Plain_netting"></a>Plain netting and the implements used in netting</b> +(figs. <a href="#fig_611">611</a>, <a href="#fig_612">612</a>, <a href="#fig_613">613</a>).—Plain netting consists of loops, secured +and rendered independent of one another by knots. For forming +and tightening these loops and knots the following implements<a name="Page_396" id="Page_396"></a> +are necessary; in the first place, a netting needle; these +are generally made of steel, split and flattened at both ends, +with a hole bored through them below the fork at the one +end, in which the thread, fig. <a href="#fig_611">611</a>, is secured, before it is +wound on lengthwise between the forks. They are numbered +as to size like knitting needles. There are netting needles likewise +of bone, ivory, wood and tortoise-shell for twine and thick +materials; these are without hole, fig. <a href="#fig_612">612</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/622.jpg" alt="FIG. 611. NETTING NEEDLE OF STEEL." title="" /> +<a name="fig_611" id="fig_611"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 611. Netting needle of steel.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/623.jpg" alt="FIG. 612. NETTING NEEDLE OF IVORY." title="" /> +<a name="fig_612" id="fig_612"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 612. Netting needle of ivory.</span> +</div> + +<p>The thread must be wound on very tightly, and not too +much of it at a time, that the needle may slip easily through +the loops. The mesh, or spool, fig. <a href="#fig_613">613</a>, whether of ivory, bone, +steel or wood, should be smooth and round and of the same +thickness throughout, so that the loops, made upon it, may be +all of one size and easily slipped off.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/624.jpg" alt="FIG. 613. MESH OR SPOOL OF IVORY." title="" /> +<a name="fig_613" id="fig_613"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 613. Mesh or spool of ivory.</span> +</div> + +<p>For long loops a flat mesh is best, and in all cases, the +needle and mesh should be selected with a view, both to the +material employed, and the size of loop required.</p> + +<p>In addition to these two implements, a cushion, weighted +with lead will be required, to pin the foundation loop to, on +which the first row of netting is worked.</p> + +<p><b>Materials suitable for netting.</b>—These, of course depend +on the purpose of the netting: silk, twine, wool and cotton, +can all be used and each possesses its advantages and disadvantages. +Silk has the finest gloss but when it is strongly twisted +it is very apt to knot, and when loosely twisted, does not make +firm knots. It is difficult to get linen thread with a smooth +uniform twist and moreover it soon frays in the working; wool +is too elastic a fibre and is unsuitable for washing purposes, +cotton remains therefore, in every respect the most desirable +material, being both smooth and uniformly twisted; as qualities, +<a name="Page_397" id="Page_397"></a>more especially adapted for netting we may mention the following: +Fil à pointer D.M.C, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C (crochet +cotton), Fil à dentelle D.M.C (lace thread), and even Coton +à tricoter D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> (knitting cotton).</p> + +<p><b><a name="Netting_stitches" id="Netting_stitches"></a>Netting stitches</b>.—The loops are always the same—four-cornered +whether they be square or oblong—and connected +together, though secured and rendered independent of one +another by knots. By different ways of passing the thread over +the mesh and connecting the loops together, the following +stitches are produced: 1º plain loop, 2º double loop, 3º oblong +loop, 4º honeycomb loop, 5º twisted loop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/625.jpg" alt="FIG. 614. FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_614" id="fig_614"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 614. First position of the hands.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>1º Plain loop. First position of the hands</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_614">614</a>).—Every +kind of netting requires a foundation loop, from 10 to +20 c/m. long, made either of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to +10, or Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 10<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, which is pinned to the +<a name="Page_398" id="Page_398"></a>cushion. Fasten the working thread to the foundation loop; +then take the mesh in the left hand, holding it between the +thumb and forefinger, with the other fingers extended beneath. +Take the needle filled with thread in the right hand and pass +the thread downwards over the mesh and over the second, +third and fourth fingers, inside, carry it up behind the third +finger and lay it to the left under the thumb by which it has to +be held fast.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/626.jpg" alt="FIG. 615. SECOND POSITION OF THE HANDS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_615" id="fig_615"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 615. Second position of the hands.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Second and third position of the hands</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_615">615</a> and +<a href="#fig_616">616</a>).—Carry the thread down behind the second, third, fourth +and fifth fingers, and put the needle through the loop on the +fingers and behind the mesh, through the foundation loop, +thus forming a second loop, which you hold back with the +little finger of the left hand. Then gradually drawing up the +thread that runs from the mesh, let go the loop held down +by the thumb; then by degrees let go also, the loop which lies +over the second, third and fourth fingers, still holding the last +loop fast with the little finger; finally you release this too and +pull up the knot thus formed close to the mesh with the right +hand. This completes the stitch. The next stitches are made +<a name="Page_399" id="Page_399"></a>in the same way; whether they are to serve for casting on or +for a netted foundation. The mesh is drawn out at the end +of each row, the work turned and the mesh held beneath the +last row, in readiness for the next, in making which you pass +your needle through each loop. These diamond-shaped loops +form a diagonal net.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/627.jpg" alt="FIG. 616. THIRD POSITION OF THE HANDS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_616" id="fig_616"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 616. Third position of the hands.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>2º Double loop</b>.—To make a double loop put the thread +two or three times round the mesh.</p> + +<p><b>3º Oblong loop</b>.—For oblong loops, the knots must be +made a little distance from the mesh.</p> + +<p><b>4º Honeycomb loop</b>.—Make an oblong loop, pass the +thread round the fingers, but not over the mesh as in plain +netting, put the needle, not into the loop of the previous row, +but between the loop, just made. The knot which is made +in the same way as in plain netting, must be drawn close up +to the mesh; the two threads of the loop should lie side by side +on the mesh. The loops in honeycomb netting are six-sided.</p> + +<p><b>5º Twisted loops</b>.—Pass the thread, as in plain netting, +over the mesh and fingers, but before letting the thread which +<a name="Page_400" id="Page_400"></a>is under the thumb go, pass the needle from right to left under +the loop you are making and the thread, and only then draw +up the knot.</p> + +<p>Although in netting the loops cannot be formed in as many +different ways as in knitting or crochet, +they admit of a certain variety, +as the following explanations will +show.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Patterns_produced_in_netting" id="Patterns_produced_in_netting"></a>Patterns produced in netting +by using meshes of different +widths.</b>—Plain netting can be varied +by making one row of loops over a +large mesh and one over a small +one, or several rows over the large +and several over the small, alternately, +changing the meshes at regular intervals.</p> + +<p><b>Patterns produced in netting by increasing +and decreasing</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_617">617</a>).—Patterns +of this kind are made by netting +the meshes together in regular sequence +and taking up as many meshes as you have +netted together, or vice versa. You may +increase and decrease in the same rows, or +at an interval of so many rows.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/628.jpg" alt="FIG. 617. PATTERNS PRODUCED IN +NETTING BY INCREASING AND DECREASING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_617" id="fig_617"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 617. Patterns produced in +netting by increasing and decreasing.</span> +</div> + +<p>Two sizes of thread should be used for +this patterns. To show the relation they +should bear to one another, we instance: +Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30 with Fil à dentelle +D.M.C No. 50<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, or Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 14 +and 30<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, with Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 50<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, or Coton +à repriser D.M.C No. 25 with No. 100.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<p>Begin by 3 rows of plain netting with the finer thread over +the small mesh, followed by one row with the coarser thread +over the large mesh; then, with the coarse thread over the large +mesh, one row, in which you net every two loops together +<a name="Page_401" id="Page_401"></a>and one row, with two loops in every +one, so that the number of loops remains +the same. These are followed +by 3 rows of plain netting with the +fine thread on the small mesh.</p> + +<p><b>Loose loops in clusters</b> (figs. +<a href="#fig_618">618</a> and <a href="#fig_619">619</a>).—These clusters of +loose loops are made in the following +manner:</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"> +<a name="fig_618" id="fig_618"></a><a name="fig_619" id="fig_619"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/629.jpg" alt="FIG. 618. LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 618. Loose loops in clusters.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/630.jpg" alt="FIG. 619. LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS. +WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 618." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 619. Loose loops in clusters. +Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_618">618</a>.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>1st row—one loop, the knot of +which must be a little distance from +the mesh; put the thread over the mesh +and the needle through the loop where the knot is; repeat +this three or four times, making the loops all of the same length. +Then unite all the loops with one knot, carrying the needle +from right to left, round the loops, instead of putting it through +the loop of the previous row.</p> + +<p>2nd row—make one +loop over each loop of +the first row, leaving out +the loops that form the +cluster.</p> + +<p>As may be gathered +from the drawing, many +different patterns can be +worked upon the netting +in this manner.</p> + +<p><b>Netting composed +of plain, double and +oblong loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_620">620</a>).—Netting +composed of +large and small loops is +the kind generally used +as a groundwork for embroidery. The loops of it are straight; +diamond netting will serve the same purpose, but as it is less +commonly used we have given the preference to the straight.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/631.jpg" alt="FIG. 620. NETTING COMPOSED OF PLAIN, DOUBLE +AND OBLONG LOOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_620" id="fig_620"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 620. Netting composed of plain, double +and oblong loops.</span> +</div> + +<p>The whole first row consists of a double and a plain loop +alternately; the second, entirely of oblong loops, which are +<a name="Page_402" id="Page_402"></a>made by passing the thread only once over the mesh, and so, +that in netting on the double loop, the knot is brought close +to the needle, where as, in netting the plain loop, it hangs free; +so that, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_620">620</a>, +all the loops of the 2nd row +are of the same length. In the +3rd row, which is like the +first, the plain loops should +come between the small holes +and the double ones between +the large holes.</p> + +<p><b>Circular netting composed +of long and short +loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_621">621</a>).—Make thirty +or thirty one loops over a large +mesh with a very stout material, such as Fil à pointer +D.M.C No. 20, or a double thread of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C +No. 30, then draw up the thread on which the loops are +strung, as tightly as possible, so as to form quite a small ring +for the centre, and fasten off.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/632.jpg" alt="FIG. 621. CIRCULAR NETTING COMPOSED OF +LONG AND SHORT LOOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_621" id="fig_621"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 621. Circular netting composed of +long and short loops.</span> +</div> + +<p>For the next row, also made in coarse thread, fasten the +thread on to a long loop and make one loop into each loop of +the first row, over a small mesh. Use the same mesh for all +the subsequent rows, which should +be worked in a finer thread, such as +Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 50 or 60.</p> + +<p>If you want to avoid fastening +on the thread afresh for each row, +make a loop over the thumb.</p> + +<p><b>Making loops over the thumb</b>.—Put +the thread, as for a plain loop +over the mesh and fingers, and put +the needle through the loop, likewise +as for a plain loop, but before tightening +the knot, draw the mesh out +of the loop just made and make it exactly as long as the +loop above.</p> + +<p><b>Circular netting formed by increases</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_622">622</a>).—Make +10 loops on the foundation loop, +close the ring, then go on, making a +row with one knot in the first loop +and two knots in the second, until +the net attains the right circumference; +in the subsequent rows, +increase by one loop, that is to say, +make two knots in each of the previous +increases.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/633.jpg" alt="FIG. 622. CIRCULAR NETTING +FORMED BY INCREASES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_622" id="fig_622"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 622. Circular netting +formed by increases.</span> +</div><p><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403"></a></p> + +<p><b>Square of netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_623">623</a> and +<a href="#fig_624">624</a>).—To make squares of netting +with straight loops, begin by making +two loops or three knots. Make two +knots in each of the following rows +so that each row is increased by one +loop. Continue to increase until you +have one loop more than the square +should number.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="fig_623" id="fig_623"></a><a name="fig_624" id="fig_624"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/634.jpg" alt="FIG. 623. SQUARE OF NETTING. BEGUN." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 623. Square of netting. Begun.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/635.jpg" alt="FIG. 624. SQUARE OF NETTING. COMPLETED." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 624. Square of netting. Completed.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Following this row with the extra +stitch, make a row without either increase +or intake and begin the intakes +in the next row, joining the two last loops of each row together +by a knot. Finish the two last loops over the thumb.</p> + +<p><b>Square of netting begun from the middle</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_625">625</a> and +<a href="#fig_626">626</a>).—Instead of beginning a square from the corner, in the +manner just described, it may be begun from the middle.</p><p><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="fig_625" id="fig_625"></a><a name="fig_626" id="fig_626"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/636.jpg" alt="FIG. 625. SQUARE OF NETTING BEGUN FROM THE MIDDLE. BEGUN." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 625. Square of netting begun from the middle. Begun.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/637.jpg" alt="FIG. 626. SQUARE OF NETTING BEGUN FROM THE MIDDLE. COMPLETED." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 626. Square of netting begun from the middle. Completed.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Cast on the required number of loops, make an intake in +each row, by omitting to take +up the last loop of a row. In +coming back, your first knot +will thus be made over the +last loop but one of the previous +row, fig. <a href="#fig_625">625</a>. To complete +the square, fasten the +thread on again, to the end of +the thread of the last row, +then make a similar to it, and repeat the same rows you +made at the beginning (see fig. <a href="#fig_626">626</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Stripes of straight netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_627">627</a> and <a href="#fig_628">628</a>).—These +can be begun and +finished in two +ways. The simplest +way, more especially +when they are +to be embroidered +afterwards, is to +cast on the necessary +number of +loops, to decrease +on one side by dropping a loop, fig. <a href="#fig_627">627</a>, or by joining two +loops together with a knot, fig. <a href="#fig_628">628</a>, and to increase on the +other side, by making two knots over one loop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/638.jpg" alt="FIG. 627. STRIPE OF STRAIGHT NETTING EDGED WITH EMPTY LOOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_627" id="fig_627"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 627. Stripe of straight netting edged with empty loops.</span> +</div> + +<p>Great care must be taken not to change the order of the +intakes and increases, as any mistake of the kind would break +the lines of squares, and interfere with the subsequent embroidery, +unless there happened to be more loops in the stripe than +stitches in the pattern, in which case the superfluous loops +might be cut away when the embroidery is finished.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/639.jpg" alt="FIG. 628. STRIPE OF STRAIGHT NETTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_628" id="fig_628"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 628. Stripe of straight netting.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Straight netting with a scalloped edge</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_629">629</a>).—The +second way of making stripes of straight netting is to begin +by a square. After making two loops on the foundation loop, +make rows with increases, until you have the required number +of loops. Then make an increase in every row to the left and +leave the last loop empty in every row to the right. Continu<a name="Page_405" id="Page_405"></a>ing +the increases on the left, you net 4 rows, without increasing +or decreasing on the right, whilst in the next 4, you again +leave the outside loop empty.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/640.jpg" alt="FIG. 629. STRAIGHT NETTING WITH A SCALLOPED EDGE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_629" id="fig_629"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 629. Straight netting with a scalloped edge.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Square frame of netting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_630">630</a>).—Handkerchief, counterpane +and chair-back borders can be netted in one piece, +leaving an empty square in the centre. After casting on the +loops as for an ordinary square of netting, letter <i>a</i>, increase them +to double the number required +for the border. Thus, for example, +if the border is to consist +of 3 squares, you make 6 +loops, then leave 3 loops empty +on the left and continue to +work to the right and decrease +to the left, up to the dotted line +from <i>c</i> to <i>c</i>. After this you begin +to decrease on the right and +increase on the left, up to the +dotted line from <i>e</i> to <i>e</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/641.jpg" alt="FIG. 630. SQUARE FRAME OF NETTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_630" id="fig_630"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 630. Square frame of netting.</span> +</div> + +<p>Leaving the right side of +the net, you now fasten on the thread at <i>c</i>, where the 3 empty +loops are, and here you make your increases on the right side +and your intakes on the left, till you come to the corner, from +whence you decrease on the right and increase on the left, up +to letter <i>g</i>. Stop on the left side and then work from left to +<a name="Page_406" id="Page_406"></a>right, passing over the row that is marked <i>e</i>. The fourth corner, +letter <i>b</i>, is worked like any other piece of straight netting, with +an intake in each row, until there are only two loops left.</p> + +<p><b>Diagonal netting with crossed loops</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_631">631</a> and <a href="#fig_632">632</a>). +To work this simple and effective pattern, begin by making +a stripe of plain netting, 14 loops in width, for the middle. +When it is long enough for your purpose, take up all the +loops on one side on a strong thread; fasten the work to the +cushion again +and work 3 +rows, along +the other edge +in the following +manner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/642.jpg" alt="FIG. 631. DIAGONAL NETTING WITH CROSSED LOOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_631" id="fig_631"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 631. Diagonal netting with crossed loops.<br /> +Original size.<br />Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C +Nos. 10 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 40.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br /> +For the darning stitches: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 12 +to 20, or Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 12 to 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—long +loops, to +be made by the +thread being +passed thrice +over the mesh.</p> + +<p>2nd row—here, +3 loops +are so made as +to cross each +other, that is, +you begin by +putting your +netting-needle +at first into +the 3rd loop, +counting from left to right, then into the 1st, and lastly into +the middle one of the three, so that the right loop leans to the +left and the left one to the right.</p> + +<p>3rd row—one plain loop in each of the loops of the previous +row. You now, draw out the thread, run in on the other +<a name="Page_407" id="Page_407"></a>side, and run it in through the loops last made, in order to +make 3 rows again, as above described, on the bottom side.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/643.jpg" alt="FIG. 632. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 631." title="" /> +<a name="fig_632" id="fig_632"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 632. Working detail of fig. <a href="#fig_631">631</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p>When this is done, you begin the scallops, composed of +12 knots or 11 loops, or 14 loops and 15 knots = net 5 rows, +leaving the outside loops empty, fig. <a href="#fig_632">632</a>, stop on the left and +proceed with: 6 knots or 5 plain loops, 2 or 3 long loops with +3 overs, 3 plain loops = turn the work = 3 plain loops, 3 +knots = turn the work = 2 loops with 3 overs, 3 knots = +turn the work = 2 plain loops, 2 knots = turn the work = +cross 2 or 3 loops, according to the number you crossed in the +middle, then carry the working thread to the middle of the +long loops, and connect them by 2 knots = pass the needle +under the knot of the last long loop, then, on the right side +<a name="Page_408" id="Page_408"></a>net: 3 plain loops = turn the work = 3 plain loops, 3 knots += turn the work = 2 plain loops, 2 knots = turn the work +and continue the rows of plain netting until you have only 2 +loops left.</p> + +<p>To reach the next scallop, pass the netting-needle through +each hole of the net and round each thread.</p> + +<p>Finish off the scallops with a row of plain netting, made +with a coarser thread than the foundation.</p> + +<p>These netted edgings are generally made in unbleached +cotton, because the patterns afterwards embroidered upon +them in coarse, white knitting or darning cotton, show best +upon it. The thread for this purpose should be used double, +and the pattern worked in darning stitches, made over 8 +squares of the netting; the 8th knot is then encircled by a loop +and the thread carried down over 8 squares and a loop again +<a name="Page_409" id="Page_409"></a>made round the 8th knot. After making 4 rows of stitches +on the netting, cut 3 bars between the rows of white stitches.</p> + +<p>The row of openwork produced in this way has a very +good effect and greatly improves the look of the lace.</p> + +<p><b>Netted fringe</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_633">633</a>).—Plain netting, pretty as it is, +looks rather poor, unless ornamented with embroidery of some +kind. The double netting, illustrated in fig. <a href="#fig_633">633</a>, will prove a +welcome novelty. The footing is worked in crochet, with braid, +secured on both sides by chain stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/644.jpg" alt="FIG. 633. NETTED FRINGE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_633" id="fig_633"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 633. Netted fringe.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30 or +Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br /> +For the fringes: Soutache D.M.C No. 3 or Lacets superfins D.M.C No. 4.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Into every fourth of these chain stitches, net one loop, +missing the 3 between. At the end of the row, turn the work +and make the knot in the middle of the 3 chain stitches, so +that the 2 loops of netting cross each other.</p> + +<p>In the second, or rather the third row, the knots are again +made first into the +front loops, into those +of the first row that +is; in the fourth row, +into those of the second +row.</p> + +<p>When the stripe +is sufficiently wide, +finish it off with +tassels, made of Soutache +D.M.C No. 3. +Instead of tying up +the lengths of braid +with a thread, twisted +round them and +fastened off with a +stitch, make 2 looped +knots round them with an end of the braid, where the neck +of the tassel should come.</p> + +<p><b>Embroidered netting.</b>—Embroidered netting, also known +as Filet Guipure, Cluny Guipure, and Richelieu Guipure, is +a netted ground, with patterns of one kind or another, worked +upon it in a variety of stitches.</p> + +<p><b>Implements required for embroidered netting.</b>—Be<a name="Page_410" id="Page_410"></a>sides +scissors, needles and thread, a light steel frame is the +only thing required, +and this renders embroidered +netting very +popular.</p> + +<p>The needles should +be long, and blunt; +those called saddlers +needles are the best.</p> + +<p><b>Wire frame for +embroidered netting</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_634">634</a>).—The frame +on which the net is +stretched should be +made of strong iron +wire, that will not bend +in the using. In shape, +it may be square or +oblong, according to +whether squares or edgings +are to be made +upon it, but the sides +must be straight, so +that the net can be +evenly stretched.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/645.jpg" alt="FIG. 634. WIRE FRAME FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_634" id="fig_634"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 634. Wire frame for embroidered netting.</span> +</div> + +<p>This wire frame +must be covered, first +with wadding or tow, +as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_634">634</a>, +and then with silk +ribbon, which must be +wound tightly round it, +and more particularly +at the corners, very +closely, so that it may be quite firm and not twist about when +the netting is sewn in. The ends of the ribbon should be secured +by two or three stitches.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Mounting_the_netting_on_the_frame" id="Mounting_the_netting_on_the_frame"></a>Mounting the netting on the frame</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_635">635</a>).—When +<a name="Page_411" id="Page_411"></a>the netting is exactly the size of the inside of the frame, it need +only be secured to it with overcasting stitches, set very closely +at the corners.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/646.jpg" alt="FIG. 635. MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME." title="" /> +<a name="fig_635" id="fig_635"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 635. Mounting the netting on the frame.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Mounting the netting on the frame with an auxiliary +tape</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_636">636</a>).—When the netting, is smaller, the space between +it and the frame, must be filled up with strong very +evenly woven, linen tape, sewn on all round the netting.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/647.jpg" alt="FIG. 636. MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME +WITH AN AUXILIARY TAPE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_636" id="fig_636"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 636. Mounting the netting on the frame +with an auxiliary tape.</span> +</div> + +<p>The tape must be very tightly held in the sewing, so +that it even forms little gathers all round; this will help you +to stretch the netting in mounting it without injuring it, and +is especially necessary when the netting is not quite evenly +made. Fig. <a href="#fig_636">636</a> shows how the tape is sewn on, the fold that +has to be made at the corners, and the way to fix the netting +into the frame.</p> + +<p>Long stripes or large pieces of work, can be mounted on +waxcloth, but we cannot recommend shortening the preparatory +work in this manner, as the squares of netting are never so +regular as when they are made in a frame.</p> + +<p><b>Materials for embroidered netting</b>.—Thick threads with +a strong twist are the best for darned, or embroidered netting, +such as Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> (crochet cotton), or Fil à +dentelle D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> (lace thread).</p> + +<p>There are however certain old kinds of embroidered netting +made in soft loose silk, for imitating which it is best to use, +Coton à repriser D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> that being quite the best substitute +for the original material.</p> + +<p><b>The stitches used for embroidered netting</b>.—These +are so multifarious and admit of so many different combinations, +that not a few of them seeing that be quite new to our readers, +willsome we have never yet come across in any book on +the subject that has come under our notice.</p> + +<p><b>Ordinary darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_637">637</a>).—The simplest stitch +of all for covering a netted ground is the ordinary darning +stitch; drawing the thread, that is to say, in and out of the +number of squares, prescribed by the pattern, and backwards +and forwards as many times as is necessary to fill them up.</p> +<p><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/648.jpg" alt="FIG. 637. +ORDINARY DARNING STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_637" id="fig_637"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 637. +Ordinary darning stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p>The number of stitches depends, to a certain extent, on the +material employed; with Coton à broder D.M.C for example, +you will have to make more stitches than with one of the +coarser numbers of Coton à repriser D.M.C.</p> + +<p>This is the stitch generally used for reproducing a cross +stitch pattern on a netted ground and is especially to be recommended +for covering large surfaces, curtains, counterpanes and +so forth, as it is quickly done and shows up the pattern +well.</p> + +<p><b>Linen stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_638">638</a> and <a href="#fig_639">639</a>).—This is the stitch most +often met with in the old embroideries, it being the one the +solid parts of the leaves and flowers, and the borders are generally +worked in.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_638" id="fig_638"></a><a name="fig_639" id="fig_639"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/649.jpg" alt="FIG. 638. +LINEN STITCH. FIRST STITCHES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 638. +Linen stitch. First stitches.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/650.jpg" alt="FIG. 639. LINEN STITCH. +SECOND STITCHES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 639. Linen stitch. +Second stitches.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fasten on the thread to a knot of the netting and carry it +<a name="Page_413" id="Page_413"></a>twice to and fro, over and under the threads of the netting, so +that at the end of the row, every second thread passes under +and over the thread of the netting, as it is carried upwards again.</p> + +<p>This constitutes the first layer of threads, the second completes +the linen stitch and is made in the same way, only across +the first, alternately taking up and missing a thread as is done, +in darning. The thread may also be carried both ways over the +threads of the squares. In this case you must draw an uneven +number of threads through the squares, otherwise the crossing +of the threads will be irregular in the last square.</p> + +<p><b>Linen stitch. Formation of the corners</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_640">640</a>).—When +linen stitch is used for the border of a pattern, and a +corner has to be formed, you begin by carrying the threads +over a given number of squares. This first layer, especially +in the case of long stripes, must be kept very slack, and to ensure +the threads being all of the same length, lay a fine mesh or a +thick knitting needle at one end and stretch the threads over it. +After carrying the second layer across a few squares, take +away the mesh or needle. The threads of the first layer become +gradually shorter, from the passage of the cross threads in +and out between them, and end by being just long enough to +prevent the last embroidered squares from being too tightly +stretched.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/651.jpg" alt="FIG. 640. LINEN STITCH. +FORMATION OF THE CORNERS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_640" id="fig_640"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 640. Linen stitch. +Formation of the corners.</span> +</div> + +<p>On reaching the corner, you cross the threads of the next +row, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_640">640</a>. The first threads of the second side +form the foundation of the corner square; from the second corner +square you pass to the third; from the third to the fourth, +carrying your thread alternately over and under the threads that +were stretched for the first corner.</p> + +<p><b>Loop stitch (point d'esprit)</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_641">641</a> and <a href="#fig_642">642</a>).—This +is a light open stitch, chiefly used for making a less transparent +foundation than plain netting. Fasten the thread to the middle +of one bar of the netting, then make a loose loop to the middle of +the top bar of the same square, fig. <a href="#fig_641">641</a>, by carrying the thread, +from left to right, over one vertical and one horizontal bar of +the net and inserting the needle downwards from above under +the bar and in front of the working thread. For the second +row back, also represented in fig. <a href="#fig_641">641</a>, you draw the needle +<a name="Page_414" id="Page_414"></a>through, underneath the bar above the loop stitch and make +the loop upwards from below; in doing this the working thread +must lie to the left, in front of the needle. Fig. <a href="#fig_642">642</a> shows how +to join the rows and pass the needle through the stitches of +the preceding row.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_641" id="fig_641"></a><a name="fig_642" id="fig_642"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/652.jpg" alt="FIG. 641. LOOP STITCH. +1ST AND 2ND COURSE OF THE THREAD." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 641. Loop stitch. +1st and 2nd course of the thread.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/653.jpg" alt="FIG. 642. LOOP STITCH. +SEVERAL ROWS COMPLETED." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 642. Loop stitch. +Several rows completed.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="Star_composed_of_loose_threads" id="Star_composed_of_loose_threads"></a>Star composed of loose threads</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_643">643</a>, <a href="#fig_644">644</a>, <a href="#fig_645">645</a>).—This +star covers 16 squares of netting. Fasten the thread to the +middle knot of the 16 squares, then carry it diagonally over +4 squares, three times from left to right under a knot of the +foundation and three times from right to left. In this way, the +bottom rays of the star are formed. For the stitches that complete +the figure, you start from the middle and following the +direction of the little arrow in the illustration, you cover the +<a name="Page_415" id="Page_415"></a>netting with 3 horizontal and 3 +vertical threads, carried over 4 +squares. When you have laid the +vertical threads, slip the needle +4 or 5 times round in a circle, under +the diagonal and over the +straight threads, but always over +the bars of the netting. This completes +the star, as it is represented +in fig. <a href="#fig_645">645</a>. Care must be taken +to make the stitches lie quite flat +side by side, and not one on the +top of the other.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_643" id="fig_643"></a><a name="fig_644" id="fig_644"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 240px;"> +<img src="images/654.jpg" alt="FIG. 643. +STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS +LAYING THE UNDERNEATH THREADS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 643. +Star formed of loose threads +laying the underneath threads.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/655.jpg" alt="FIG. 644. +STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS. +LAYING THE UPPER THREADS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 644. +Star formed of loose threads. +Laying the upper threads.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/656.jpg" alt="FIG. 645. +STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS. +FINISHED." title="" /> +<a name="fig_645" id="fig_645"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 645. +Star formed of loose threads. +Finished.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Darning stitch (point de reprise)</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_646">646</a> and <a href="#fig_647">647</a>).—Little +flowers and leaves are generally executed in this stitch; +the first course of the thread is shown in fig. <a href="#fig_646">646</a>. Leaves can +be made with one, two or three veins. Carry the needle, invariably +from the middle, first to the right and then to the left, +under the threads of the foundation and push the stitches close +together, as they are made, with the point of your needle. This +you will be able to do most easily by holding the work so as +to make the stitches towards you.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_646" id="fig_646"></a><a name="fig_647" id="fig_647"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/657.jpg" alt="FIG. 646. +LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING STITCH. +BEGUN." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 646. +Leaves worked in darning stitch. +Begun.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/658.jpg" alt="FIG. 647. +LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING STITCH. +COMPLETED." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 647. +Leaves worked in darning stitch. +Completed.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>For a leaf with only one division or vein, like the left leaf +in fig. <a href="#fig_646">646</a>, merely run the needle through the middle of the +threads, whereas for a leaf with two or three veins, you must +<a name="Page_416" id="Page_416"></a>run it, over and under, either one, or two threads (see the +right leaf in fig. <a href="#fig_646">646</a>).</p> + +<p>In working leaves of this kind in darning stitch, you must +draw your stitches at the top and bottom of the leaf rather +tighter than in the middle, so as to give them the proper shape. +If you wish to make them very slender at the bottom, you can +finish them off with a few overcasting stitches.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_647">647</a> represents two leaves completed, one with one vein +and the other, with two.</p> + +<p><b>Pointed scallops in darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_648">648</a>).—The simplest +way to work these scallops is to carry a thread, as shown +in the illustration, to and fro over the square, from the knot in +one corner to the middle of the bar above and downwards to +the opposite knot, round which the thread is carried and passed +upwards again to the middle. As the scallop must always be +begun from the top, you will have, two foundation threads on +one side and three on the other. Here likewise, you must +push the threads as closely together as possible with the needle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/659.jpg" alt="FIG. 648. POINTED SCALLOPS IN +DARNING STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_648" id="fig_648"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 648. Pointed scallops in +darning stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Pointed scallops in buttonhole stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_649">649</a>).—Another +quite as pretty and easy way of working pointed scallops +on a netted foundation is by making two buttonhole stitches +before crossing to the opposite side. As shown in the foregoing +illustration, you begin by stretching single or double foundation +threads across; then beginning at the point, you make, +alternately right and left, 2 buttonhole stitches over the foundation +threads, so that the working thread is only carried across +to the opposite side after every second stitch.</p><p><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/660.jpg" alt="FIG. 649. POINTED SCALLOPS IN +BUTTONHOLE STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_649" id="fig_649"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 649. Pointed scallops in +buttonhole stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Veined pointed scallops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_650">650</a>).—A third way of making +pointed scallops is by first stretching a thread to and fro across +the middle of the square, after which you slip the needle from +left to right under the middle thread, and underneath the +left bar from above. Then you carry the needle, from right to +left, over the foundation thread and under the right bar and +so on. The one thread must be drawn tightly round the other, +in order that the stitches may form close and evenly shaped +veins, like small cords, on the wrong side of the scallop. There +must be enough stitches to completely cover the foundation +thread that crosses the middle of the square.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/661.jpg" alt="FIG. 650. VEINED POINTED SCALLOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_650" id="fig_650"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 650. Veined pointed scallops.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Pointed scallops in Venetian stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_651">651</a>).—The +prettiest scallops of all are those worked in Venetian stitch. +You begin, by making from 8 to 10 buttonhole stitches over +one bar of the netting, then you work on with the same stitch +backwards and forwards, making one stitch less in each row, +until you come to the one which forms the point of the scallop +and is fastened to the bar above; you carry the working thread +back on the wrong side to the lower bar, and then under the +buttonhole stitches to the next square of the netting. Scallops +worked in this manner, can be overcast round the edges in +the way described further on, in fig. <a href="#fig_660">660</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/662.jpg" alt="FIG. 651. POINTED SCALLOPS IN VENETIAN STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_651" id="fig_651"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 651. Pointed scallops in venetian stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Wheels embroidered on netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_652">652</a> and <a href="#fig_653">653</a>).—To +make wheels or spiders, as they are also called, you have first +to fasten the thread to the middle knot of four squares, thence +you carry it diagonally right and left, fig. <a href="#fig_652">652</a>, right detail, +across the empty squares of netting and the knot, and return +<a name="Page_418" id="Page_418"></a>to the middle, overcasting your first thread by the way, so as +to form a closely twisted cord. This is called cording a thread.</p> + +<p>Having reached the centre, carry the working thread round +and round, under and over the corded threads and under the +bars of the netting till the wheel covers half the bars.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_652" id="fig_652"></a><a name="fig_653" id="fig_653"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/663.jpg" alt="FIG. 652. +LAYING THE THREADS FOR A WHEEL +AND BEGINNING OF THE WHEEL." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 652. +Laying the threads for a wheel +and beginning of the wheel.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/664.jpg" alt="FIG. 653. +WHEELS WORKED IN +TWO WAYS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 653. +Wheels worked in +two ways.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_653">653</a> shows, on the right, a finished wheel, and on the +left, another way in which it can be made, and indicates the +course of the thread over and under the lines, as in a darn. +These details show also how, when the foundation thread of the +wheel starts from a corner, it is left single in the first square +until the wheel is finished; then the needle is slipped back +along the little spoke, opposite to the single thread, and through +the wheel, and the single thread is corded like the others.</p> + +<p><b>Ribbed wheels</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_654">654</a>).—Make the foundation of the +wheels as before, over 8 threads. To form the ribs at the back +of the wheels, see fig. <a href="#fig_654">654</a>; make a back stitch, on the right +side, over a bar of the netting, and carry on the needle under +one bar, so that the thread that lies outside always crosses 2 +bars of the netting.</p><p><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/665.jpg" alt="FIG. 654. +RIBBED WHEELS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_654" id="fig_654"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 654. +Ribbed wheels.</span> +</div> + +<p>In this case you must make circles of thread enough, to cover +the bars completely, not half, as before.</p> + +<p>The same stitches, as fig. <a href="#fig_654">654</a> shows, can be made on +either side of +the embroidery, +and so as +to form, either +a square or a +lozenge (see +fig. <a href="#fig_655">655</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/666.jpg" alt="FIG. 655. +RIBBED SQUARES OR LOZENGES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_655" id="fig_655"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 655. +Ribbed squares or lozenges.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Wheels set +with buttonholing</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_656">656</a>).—A very +pretty lace-like +effect is produced +by encircling the wheels in large squares of netting with +a double setting of stitches. The left detail of fig. <a href="#fig_656">656</a> shows +how the thread, having +been passed under the +wheel and twisted once +round the single thread, +is carried all round the +square and forms 8 loops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/667.jpg" alt="FIG. 656. WHEELS SET WITH BUTTONHOLING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_656" id="fig_656"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 656. Wheels set with buttonholing.</span> +</div> + +<p>The arrow shows the +way in which the loops +are taken up, and the first +ring of stitches round the +wheel is finished.</p> + +<p>The second detail of +the same figure explains +the course the thread, that +forms the second ring, +has to take through the loops and between the bars; whilst +the white line shows the passage of the thread over the second +ring. The third detail represents a wheel, completed.</p> + +<p><b>Star with one-sided buttonhole stitches</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_657">657</a>).—The +pattern represented in fig. <a href="#fig_657">657</a>, is the quickest to work that we +<a name="Page_420" id="Page_420"></a>know of. Two buttonhole stitches made upon the outside bar +of a square and a simple crossing of the thread at the bottom, +produce elongated triangles which should always be begun +from the knot. Two triangles +stand exactly opposite to each +other in one square, and the +square that comes in the +middle of the four thus filled, +is ornamented with a small +wheel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/668.jpg" alt="FIG. 657. STAR WITH ONE-SIDED BUTTONHOLE STITCHES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_657" id="fig_657"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 657. Star with one-sided buttonhole stitches.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Rounded corners of +netting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_658">658</a>).—Darning +stitches, made over a thread +carried diagonally across one +square and the adjacent corners +of that and two other +squares, produce the figure +illustrated in fig. <a href="#fig_658">658</a>. The +accompanying detail shows +the mode of working.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/668a.jpg" alt="FIG. 658. +ROUNDED CORNERS ON NETTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_658" id="fig_658"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 658. +Rounded corners on netting.</span> +</div> + +<p>The number of stitches +depends on the material you +use; there should be no more +than can lie quite flat, side by +side, on the diagonal thread.</p> + +<p><b>Linen stitch, set with +darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_659">659</a>).—There +are some patterns it +would hardly be possible to +work on netting unless you +could soften the outlines by +darning stitches, as shown in the foregoing figure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/668b.jpg" alt="FIG. 659. +LINEN STITCH SET WITH DARNING STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_659" id="fig_659"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 659. +Linen stitch set with darning stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p>When employed as a setting to linen stitch, there should +be fewer than in fig. <a href="#fig_658">658</a>; you may also, instead of interrupting +them at every corner, carry them all round a square, (see +the right detail of the figure).</p> + +<p><b>Linen stitch set with cord stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_660">660</a>).—Many +figures are also either corded or edged with twisted thread; +<a name="Page_421" id="Page_421"></a>both ways are represented in the illustration. In the latter case +you can use the same thread as for the linen stitch, or if you +wish the setting to be very pronounced, a thicker one. For +instance, if the netting be made of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C +No. 25<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> we recommend Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 15 or 20<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> +for the setting. This difference of material is especially noticeable +in the old Cluny Guipure, where the figures worked +in linen stitch are edged +with a thread like a cord. +But if the linen stitch be bound +with cord stitch, the same +thread must be used for it, as +for the foundation. A soft material, +like Coton à repriser, +makes the best padding for +the overcasting stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/668c.jpg" alt="FIG. 660. +LINEN STITCH SET WITH CORD STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_660" id="fig_660"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 660. +Linen stitch set with cord stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Flower in dot stitch on a foundation of linen stitch</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_661">661</a>).—With the help of this stitch, which is described +in the chapter on white embroidery and represented in fig. <a href="./chapter_5.html#fig_179">179</a>, a great +variety of little +supplementary +ornaments can +be made, on +every description +of netted +ground.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/668d.jpg" alt="FIG. 661. FLOWER IN DOT STITCH ON A +FOUNDATION OF LINEN STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_661" id="fig_661"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 661. Flower in dot stitch on a +foundation of linen stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Bordering +in buttonhole +stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_662">662</a>).—Scalloped edges in netting should be buttonholed; +2 or 3 padding threads should be run in first, following +the bars of the netting, over which the buttonholing is done; +the bars of the netting must not be cut away until the edge +be finished.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/668e.jpg" alt="FIG. 662. BORDERING IN BUTTONHOLE STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_662" id="fig_662"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 662. Bordering in buttonhole stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Cut work in embroidered netting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_663">663</a>).—Cut work +here means half covering the bars of the netting with button-<a name="Page_422" id="Page_422"></a>hole +stitches and half cutting +them away with scissors. +The inner bars are frequently +ornamented with a +double buttonhole edging +and knotted picots, see figs. +<a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_698">698</a> and <a href="./chapter_13.html#fig_699">699</a> in the next +chapter. You slightly separate +the stitches of the first +row of buttonholing so as to +be able to introduce the thread of the second row between them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/669.jpg" alt="FIG. 663. CUT WORK IN EMBROIDERED NETTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_663" id="fig_663"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 663. Cut work in embroidered netting.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Straight loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_664">664</a>).—In the first row you +carry the thread over one bar and slip it through behind a knot; +in the second you do the same thing, only that above, your +needle will pass under 3 threads, two of them the threads of the +loop of the first row and the third a bar of the net. In every +square 4 threads cross each other.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/670.jpg" alt="FIG. 664. STRAIGHT LOOP STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_664" id="fig_664"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 664. Straight loop stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Waved stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_665">665</a>).—This stitch, which forms a close +waved ground, is produced by passing the thread in each row +of the netting over a square and behind a knot. When the pattern +admits of it, as it mostly does, a considerably thicker thread +is used for this stitch and for the stitches represented in figs. +<a href="#fig_667">667</a>, <a href="#fig_668">668</a>, <a href="#fig_669">669</a> and <a href="#fig_670">670</a>, than that in which the netting is made. +When the netted ground is of Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 50,<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423"></a> +the embroidery upon it may very well be done in Cordonnet +6 fils. D.M.C No. 10<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, or Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/671.jpg" alt="FIG. 665. WAVED STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_665" id="fig_665"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 665. Waved stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Intersected loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_666">666</a>).—Begin by covering +the whole surface to be embroidered with plain loop stitches, +then stretch threads diagonally across the squares of the +netting and the loop stitches; one set of threads running over +the stitches and under the knots of the netting, the other +under the first and second threads of the loop stitches and over +the first crossed threads and the knots.</p> + +<p>The laying and stretching of these threads must, it is hardly +necessary to say, be systematically and regularly done.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/672.jpg" alt="FIG. 666. INTERSECTED LOOP STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_666" id="fig_666"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 666. Intersected loop stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="Ground_worked_in" id="Ground_worked_in"></a>Ground worked in horizontal +lines</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_667">667</a>).—Make +half cross stitches over +4 squares of netting, by passing +the thread alternately +over and under 3 knots, and +under 3 squares of the netting. +In the second row, cross +the threads over those of the +first row, as is shown in our +engraving.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/673.jpg" alt="FIG. 667. GROUND WORKED IN HORIZONTAL LINES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_667" id="fig_667"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 667. Ground worked in horizontal lines.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Ground worked in stitches +placed one above the +other</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_668">668</a>).—Cover a +whole row of squares with +cross stitches and leave 3 rows of squares empty. When you have +a sufficient number of rows of cross stitches, take a long needle +and pass it upwards from below, and from right to left, under +the two bars of the third upper square; then pass downwards +to the first square of the 3 bottom rows and under the bars +from right to left, so as again to leave 3 squares between the +fresh stitches. The next row of stitches is made in the same +manner, so that the stitches are not only set contrary ways but +reciprocally cover each other.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/674.jpg" alt="FIG. 668. GROUND WORKED IN STITCHES PLACED ONE ABOVE THE OTHER." title="" /> +<a name="fig_668" id="fig_668"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 668. Ground worked in stitches placed one above the other.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424"></a></p> + +<p><b>Latticed ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_669">669</a>).—Begin by running the thread, +to and fro, under two vertical bars and over three horizontal +ones. When the ground is entirely covered, carry your thread +from right to left, under the bars over which the first rows of +threads are crossed; then take it over the long crosses, that +correspond to 5 squares of netting, and pass it in the same line +under the bars of the netting. In coming back, the long stitches +cross each other over the stitches of the first rows.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/675.jpg" alt="FIG. 669. LATTICED GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_669" id="fig_669"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 669. Latticed ground.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Ground worked in Russian stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_670">670</a>).—Pass the +thread from left to right, under a bar of the netting, carry it +downwards over 4 squares and pass it again, from left to right, +under the bar, then upwards, again over 4 squares of netting +and so on. The stitches of the next rows are made in the same +<a name="Page_425" id="Page_425"></a>manner; you have only to see that the loops formed by the +stitches all come on the same line of knots.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/676.jpg" alt="FIG. 670. GROUND WORKED IN RUSSIAN STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_670" id="fig_670"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 670. Ground worked in russian stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Ground worked in two sizes of thread</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_671">671</a>).—Herewith +begins the series of stitches, +referred to at the beginning of the +chapter, copied in part from one of +the oldest and most curious pieces +of embroidered netting we have ever +met with. The copies were worked +with Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. +25 and écru Fil à dentelle D.M.C +No. 70<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>; the former being used for +the darning and the almond-shaped +stitches between; the latter for the +buttonhole stitches. Wherever two +sizes of thread are used for one pattern, all the stitches in the +coarse thread should be put in first and those in the fine, last.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/677.jpg" alt="FIG. 671. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD." title="" /> +<a name="fig_671" id="fig_671"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 671. Ground worked in two sizes of thread.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Ground with wheels and loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_672">672</a>).—You +begin with the coarse thread and +finish all the wheels first, making +them each over 4 threads of the +netting; then with the fine thread, +you make loop stitches between +them, in rows, as shown in figs. +<a href="#fig_641">641</a> and <a href="#fig_642">642</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/678.jpg" alt="FIG. 672. GROUND WITH WHEELS AND LOOP STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_672" id="fig_672"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 672. Ground with wheels and loop stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Ground worked in darning +and loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_673">673</a>).—The +darning stitches are made in the +coarse thread, over 4 squares of +the netting, in a horizontal direction, +with loop stitches, in the +fine thread, made between them, over the same number of +squares.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/679.jpg" alt="FIG. 673. GROUND WORKED IN DARNING AND LOOP STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_673" id="fig_673"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 673. Ground worked in darning and loop stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Ground worked in two sizes of thread</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_674">674</a>).—Carry +the coarse thread, from right to left, under the first +knot of the netting, and then under the next, from left to +<a name="Page_426" id="Page_426"></a>right. This has to be done +twice, to and fro, so that the +squares of the netting are +edged on both sides with a +double layer of threads.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/680.jpg" alt="FIG. 674. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD." title="" /> +<a name="fig_674" id="fig_674"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 674. Ground worked in two sizes of thread.</span> +</div> + +<p>When the whole foundation +has been thus covered, +take the fine thread and make +loop stitches in the squares +between the other rows of +stitches, passing the needle +for that purpose over the double +stitch. Lastly, intersect the +loop stitches with straight +threads and pass the needle each time through the knot of +the netting.</p> + +<p><b>Ground worked with cross stitches in one size of thread</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_675">675</a>).—This pattern, very like the foregoing one, consists +of 3 diagonal rows of stitches, worked to and fro, with cross +stitches made over them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/681.jpg" alt="FIG. 675. GROUND WORKED WITH CROSS STITCHES IN ONE SIZE OF THREAD." title="" /> +<a name="fig_675" id="fig_675"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 675. Ground worked with cross stitches in one size of thread.</span> +</div> + +<p>You may also begin with the cross stitches, in the fine +thread, and work the triple stitches over them, in the coarse.</p> + +<p><b>Ground worked with darning and cord stitches</b> (fig.<a name="Page_427" id="Page_427"></a> +<a href="#fig_676">676</a>).—Patterns, executed chiefly in darning stitches, in a +comparatively coarse thread, present a closer and heavier +appearance than those we have been describing. Here, every +other square of the netting is filled, as closely as possible, with +stitches; the empty squares between are intersected diagonally +with corded threads.</p> + +<p><b>Ground worked with squares and wheels</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_677">677</a>, <a href="#fig_678">678</a>, +<a href="#fig_679">679</a>).—A ground very often met +with in old embroidered netting, +consists of diagonal lines of squares, +closely filled with darning stitches, +alternating with diagonal lines of +squares, each with a small wheel +in the middle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_676" id="fig_676"></a><a name="fig_677" id="fig_677"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/682.jpg" alt="FIG. 676. GROUND WORKED WITH DARNING AND CORD STITCHES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 676. Ground worked with darning and cord stitches.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/683.jpg" alt="FIG. 677. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 677. Ground worked with squares and wheels.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_678">678</a>, the darning stitches, +and the wheels, which are both +worked with the same material, +cover 4 squares of the netting.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="fig_678" id="fig_678"></a><a name="fig_679" id="fig_679"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/684.jpg" alt="FIG. 678. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 678. Ground worked with squares and wheels.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/685.jpg" alt="FIG. 679. +GROUND WITH LARGE WHEELS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 679. +Ground with large wheels.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Larger expanses of netting may +also be entirely filled with wheels, +fig. <a href="#fig_679">679</a>. To make a really satisfactory grounding of this kind, +you should be careful always to carry your thread over the +bars of the netting and under the threads that are stretched +diagonally across.</p><p><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428"></a></p> + +<p><b>Ground worked in cross and darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_680">680</a>).—You +begin, as before, by making the close darning stitches, +and then proceed to the cross stitches. To give them the right +shape, finish all the rows of +stitches one way first; in the +subsequent rows, that cross +the first ones, you introduce +the thread between the stitches +that were first crossed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/686.jpg" alt="FIG. 680. +GROUND WORKED IN CROSS AND +DARNING STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_680" id="fig_680"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 680. +Ground worked in cross and +darning stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Ground of geometrical +figures</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_681">681</a>).—This pattern, +quite different from all +the others, consists of simple +geometrical lines. Fasten the +thread to a knot of the netting, +then carry it, always diagonally, +under 3 other knots +and repeat this 3 times, after which, carry it once round the +bar of the netting, to fasten it, and back again to the knot +which it already encircles, and from thence begin a new square. +Owing to your having always to bring +the thread back to the knot whence +the next square is to begin, you will +have 4 threads on two of the sides +and 6 on the two others.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/687.jpg" alt="FIG. 681. GROUND OF GEOMETRICAL FIGURES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_681" id="fig_681"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 681. Ground of geometrical figures.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the second and subsequent +rows, the needle has to pass twice +under the angles that were first formed, +in order that, over the whole +surface, all the corners may be equally +covered and connected.</p> + +<p><b>Netted insertion worked in +plain darning stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_682">682</a>).—The taste for ornamenting +not only curtains but bed and table linen also, with lace and +insertion of all kinds, to break the monotony of the large white +surfaces, is becoming more and more general and the insertion +here described will be welcome to such of our readers as have +neither time nor patience for work of a more elaborate nature.</p><p><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="./images/full_688.jpg"><img src="images/688.jpg" alt="FIG. 682. NETTED INSERTION WORKED IN PLAIN DARNING STITCH." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_682" id="fig_682"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 682. Netted insertion worked in plain darning stitch.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25.—For the +darning stitch: Coton à broder D.M.C No. 25, or Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 12 +to 50, white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The way to make straight +netting has already been fully +described in figs. <a href="#fig_625">625</a>, <a href="#fig_626">626</a>, +<a href="#fig_627">627</a>, <a href="#fig_628">628</a>, <a href="#fig_629">629</a> and <a href="#fig_630">630</a>, and +darning stitch in fig. <a href="#fig_637">637</a>.</p> + +<p>To those who wish to be +saved the trouble of making +the netting themselves, we can +strongly recommend various +fabrics, intended to take its +place, more especially Filet +Canevas, which is an exact +imitation of the finest hand-made +netting. The centre part +of the pattern in fig. <a href="#fig_682">682</a>, is worked in rows of horizontal +darning stitches, the narrow border in vertical ones.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Ground_of_netting_embroidered" id="Ground_of_netting_embroidered"></a>Ground of netting embroidered</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_683">683</a>).—We have +already had occasion, in the foregoing explanations, to point +out the advantage of embroidering with two sizes of thread, +but it is only in a piece of work of a certain size that it is +possible really to judge of the excellent effect produced by the +use of two threads of different sizes.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/689.jpg" alt="FIG. 683. EMBROIDERED GROUND OF NETTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_683" id="fig_683"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 683. Embroidered ground of netting.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the netting: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.<br /> +For the darning stitch: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15, or Fil à pointer D.M.C +No. 30.—For the loop stitch: Fil à dentelle D.M.C or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C +according to the size of the netting thread.</span> +</div> + +<p>The principal lines of the pattern, which are in darning +stitch, are worked in a very coarse thread with a strong twist, +Fil à pointer D.M.C, whilst the loop stitches are in Cordonnet +6 fils D.M.C.</p><p><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431"></a></p> + +<p>Our model was worked in écru thread but there is nothing +to prevent several colours being introduced, for instance écru, +black or Gris-Ficelle 462 for the netted foundation; Rouge-Cardinal +346, for the darning stitches, and Chiné d'or D.M.C +green and gold or blue and gold, for the loop stitches and the +threads that are carried across inside.</p> + +<p><b>Embroidered square of netting with two kinds of +lace suitable for the border</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>, <a href="#fig_685">685</a>, <a href="#fig_686">686</a>).—Large +pieces of embroidered netting are generally made up of squares +<a name="Page_432" id="Page_432"></a>and stripes, joined together with ribbon and fine linen insertions. +It is easier and less cumbrous to make the netting in separate +pieces. Squares of different patterns can also be combined with +crochet and pillow lace, in this case of course the squares +have to be arranged with some system.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/690.jpg" alt="FIG. 684. EMBROIDERED SQUARE OF NETTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_684" id="fig_684"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 684. Embroidered square of netting.<br /> +Materials</span>: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C +Nos. 15 to 40, white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_685">685</a> represents a lace edging intended for the square +fig. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>, which shows how even in such a simple pattern as +this, several colours may be successfully introduced.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<img src="images/691.jpg" alt="FIG. 685. LACE EDGING FOR THE SQUARE, FIG. 684" title="" /> +<a name="fig_685" id="fig_685"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 685. Lace edging for the square, fig. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>.<br /> +Materials:</span> The same as for fig. <a href="#fig_684">684</a>, and Or fin +D.M.C pour la broderie No. 30.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Colours</span>—For the netting and the loop stitch: +White or écru.—For the darning stitch: +Brun-Caroubier 303 and Rouge-Grenat 335.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_686">686</a> is a handsomer and more elaborate pattern for +the same kind of purpose. The loop stitches and the linen +stitches should be +worked in a very +light shade; instead +of the colour indicated +at the foot of the +engraving, Rouge-Géranium +353, Violet-Mauve +377 or +Jaune-Rouille 365 +may be used; for +the netting and the +loop stitches you +may combine, with +the first shade, two +shades of Brun-Caroubier +303 and 357, with +the second, two shades +of Jaune-vieil Or 678 +and 680 and with the +third, two shades of +Rouge-Cardinal 346 and +348.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/692.jpg" alt="FIG. 686. LACE EDGING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_686" id="fig_686"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 686. Lace edging.<br /> +Materials</span>: The same as for <a href="#fig_684">684</a>.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Colours</span>—For the netting: écru.—For the +ground in loop and linen stitch: +Bleu pâle 668.—For the bars in darning stitch: +Gris-Tilleul 391 and 393.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p><b>Pattern for ground</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_687">687</a>).—The peculiar +charm of this most +unpretending pattern is +<a name="Page_433" id="Page_433"></a>chiefly due to the variety of material and colour introduced +into it. The netted ground is made of dark brown Cordonnet +6 fils D.M.C No. 25, worked over, in the first instance, with +loop stitches in a pale grey, which are afterwards connected +by darning stitches in Coton à repriser Gris-Tilleul 392.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/693.jpg" alt="FIG. 687. PATTERN FOR GROUND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_687" id="fig_687"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 687. Pattern for ground.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30. +For the embroidery: Coton à repriser D.M.C No. 25.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Brun-Havane 455, Gris-Noisette 423, Jaune-vieil-Or 680, +Gris-Tilleul 391 and Rouge-Géranium 352.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The same material in Rouge-Géranium, is used for the +little centre squares and the pink crosses, and isolated darned +squares are framed with loose cord stitches in Coton à repriser +colour Jaune-vieil-Or 680.</p> +<p><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434"></a></p> +<p>We can also recommend, for the same pattern, the following +combination of colours, all to be found on the D.M.C colour +card; namely, Bleu pâle 668 for the netting; Chiné d'or, gold +with dark blue for the loop stitches; Ganse turque D.M.C No. 12 +(Turkish gold cord) for the darning stitches, between the loop +stitches; Coton à broder or Cordonnet 6 fils in Rouge-Cornouille +450, for the detached darned squares and Coton à repriser, in +Jaune-d'Or 667 for the setting of all the different parts of the +pattern.</p> + +<p><b>Embroidery on netting with different-sized loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_688">688</a>).—The netting, described and represented in fig. <a href="#fig_620">620</a>, +with plain, oblong and double loops, here forms the ground +for the embroidery.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/694.jpg" alt="FIG. 688. EMBROIDERY ON NETTING WITH DIFFERENT-SIZED LOOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_688" id="fig_688"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 688. Embroidery on netting with different-sized loops. <br /> +Materials</span>—For the netting: Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 40. +For the embroidery: Coton à broder D.M.C No. 16, white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>In order to make the isolated loop stitches, the thread +which forms the cross in the middle must be carried to the +<a name="Page_435" id="Page_435"></a>middle of the bar, the loops that form the stitches must be +finished and the thread carried back to the knot whence it +started. It must then be taken three times backwards and for<a name="Page_436" id="Page_436"></a>wards +over the foundation thread and the two bars of the netting, +when the stitches, into and over 3 squares of the netting, +should be made. The last row in the engraving shows the +pattern in the successive stages of its development.</p> + +<p><b>Square and edging in cut netting</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_689">689</a> and <a href="#fig_690">690</a>).—Few +patterns admit of such a successful application of all the +stitches hitherto described, as the square and edging presented +to our readers in the two subjoined figures. On a netted ground +of rather fine thread, we have in the first place, linen stitch, in +the border, worked in rather a coarser thread than the ground; +then raised wheels, buttonholed bars with picots in the centre, +<a name="Page_437" id="Page_437"></a>plain wheels very close together, and long ribbed bars worked +in darning stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="./images/full_695.jpg"><img src="images/695.jpg" alt="FIG. 689. SQUARE IN CUT NETTING." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_689" id="fig_689"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 689. Square in cut netting.</span> +</div> + +<p>The edging, to match the square, is worked in the original +in pale shades, in contrast to the square which is executed +entirely in écru thread. The squares in the netted footing of +the lace are loosely overcast with pale Violet-Mauve 316, the +same colour is also used for the wheels in the outside edge, +each of which fills a square, and for the loop stitches round +them; whilst the middle one of the three upper ribbed wheels +and the star are worked in dark Violet-Mauve 315. The +crosses in linen stitch, the three lower ribbed wheels and +<a name="Page_438" id="Page_438"></a>the long ribbed bars in darning stitch, are in Gris-Tilleul +392.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_690" id="fig_690"></a> +<a href="./images/full_696.jpg"><img src="images/696.jpg" alt="FIG. 690. LACE EDGING IN CUT NETTING. +MATERIALS: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, in three shades of one colour." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 690. Lace edging in cut netting.<br /> +Materials</span>: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, in three shades of one colour.</span> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="Netted_insertion" id="Netted_insertion"></a>Netted insertion</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_691">691</a>).—This is a copy of a beautiful +piece of embroidered netting, to all appearance, several centuries +old, and in a state that rendered, even the most delicate +handling almost impossible.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/full_697.jpg"><img src="images/697.jpg" alt="FIG. 691. NETTING INSERTION" title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_691" id="fig_691"></a><span class="caption"><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 691. Netting insertion</span>—For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 40 white or écru. +—For the embroidery: Ganse turque D.M.C Nos. 6 and 12.</span> +</div> + +<p>After several experiments, the best result has been arrived +at, and the Turkish cord in which the original is made, has +now been manufactured for netting purposes, as well as for +other kinds of decorative work, already alluded to, and referred +to again later on.</p> + +<p>The first foundation, that is, the actual netting, for a thing +of this kind, should be made in white or écru thread, with very +small meshes; the pattern itself is embroidered on the netting +with Ganse turque D.M.C No. 12; this material, écru and +gold mixed, gives the work a glittering and peculiarly elegant +appearance, unobtainable in any other.</p> + +<p>The execution is extremely easy, it being worked entirely +in darning stitch; but the drawing should be copied with great +accuracy and the wide braid very carefully sewn on with close +stitches round the squares, which are filled in with darning +stitches made in Ganse turque No. 12.</p> + +<p>Any netting pattern can be copied in this braid, and the +simplest piece of work of the kind is worth mounting on a rich +foundation of silk, brocade, velvet or plush. To give a single +example, the insertion here described and illustrated, was +mounted on slate-blue plush and has been universally admired.</p> +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_13.html">Next Chapter.</a></p> +<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents.</a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label">[A]</span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes +and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div> +</div> +</body> +</html> |