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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Make Your Own Hats, by Gene Allen Martin,
+Illustrated by E. E. Martin
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Make Your Own Hats
+
+
+Author: Gene Allen Martin
+
+
+
+Release Date: November 8, 2006  [eBook #19740]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Jason Isbell, Julia Miller, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 19740-h.htm or 19740-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740/19740-h/19740-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740/19740-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note
+
+      Obvious printer's errors have been corrected. A list of
+      corrections is found at the end of the text.
+
+
+
+
+MAKE YOUR OWN HATS
+
+by
+
+GENE ALLEN MARTIN
+
+Director of Domestic Arts Department of
+the Minneapolis Y.W.C.A.; Designer, Demonstrator
+and Instructor in Millinery
+
+Illustrated by E. E. Martin
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+Boston and New York
+Houghton Mifflin Company
+The Riverside Press Cambridge
+
+Copyright, 1921, by Gene Allen Martin
+All Rights Reserved
+The Riverside Press
+Cambridge . Massachusetts
+Printed in the U.S.A.
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+Hat-making is an art which may be acquired by any one possessing
+patience and ordinary ability. To make a hat for the trade is not as
+difficult as to make one for an individual; neither is it so high a
+phase of art.
+
+Many rules are given for crown-height, brim-width, and color, as being
+suited to different types of faces, but they are so often misleading
+that it seems best to consider only a few, since the becomingness of a
+hat almost invariably depends upon minor characteristics of the
+individual for which there are no rules.
+
+A girl or woman with auburn hair may wear grays--gray-green, cream
+color, salmon pink; a touch of henna with gold or orange; mulberry if
+the eyes are dark.
+
+The woman with dark hair and blue or dark eyes may wear any color if the
+skin is clear.
+
+One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin may find golden brown, a
+pale yellow or cream color becoming--possibly a mulberry if just the
+right depth. A hat with slightly drooping brim faced with some shade of
+rose will add color to the cheeks. No reds should be worn unless the
+skin is clear. No shade of purple or heliotrope should be worn by any
+one having blue eyes--it seems to make the blue paler.
+
+Any one having auburn hair, blue eyes, and a clear skin may wear browns,
+grays, greens, tan, blue, and black. Black should not be worn next the
+face unless the skin is brilliant. It is, however, very becoming to
+blondes, and to women whose hair has become quite white.
+
+A black hat is almost a necessity in every woman's wardrobe, and it may
+always be made becoming by using a facing of some color which is
+especially becoming to the wearer--black and white is always a smart
+combination, but very difficult to handle.
+
+In regard to lines--it is known that a hat with a drooping brim takes
+from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having
+round shoulders or a short neck. A hat turned up at the back would be
+much better. A narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer. A
+woman with a short, turned-up nose should avoid a hat turned up too
+sharply from the face. Short people should avoid very wide brims. For
+the possessor of a very full, round face the high crown and narrow brim,
+or a brim which turns up sharply against the crown on one side, or all
+around, should prove becoming. A tall, slender woman would do well to
+wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keeping with her height.
+There is one style of hat which seems to be, with various modifications,
+universally becoming, and that is the bicorne, a form of the Napoleon
+style of hat.
+
+After all, experience is the best teacher. Whenever a hat is found to be
+especially becoming, one would do well to find out just why it is so and
+make a note of the color, size, and general outline. These notes are of
+value if kept for future reference, whether hats are to be made for the
+shop or for home millinery.
+
+A hat is seldom becoming all the way around, but the aim should be to
+make it so. Over-ornamentation should be guarded against, also too close
+harmony in color until much experience has been gained. A rule by which
+to judge of the becomingness of a hat and to which there is no exception
+is this--the hat must enhance your looks. If you do not look more
+pleasing with it on than with it off, it is not as good a model for you
+as it might be.
+
+In planning or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors
+and outlines which are an outward expression of ourselves. A hat, as
+well as any article of clothing, may express many things--dejection,
+happiness, decision, indecision, gayety, dignity, graciousness, a
+trained or an untrained mind, forethought, refinement, generosity,
+cruelty, or recklessness. How often we hear some one say, "That hat
+looks just like Mrs. Blank!" Clothing of any kind is an index to the
+personality of the wearer. A friend once said in my presence to a
+saleswoman who was trying to sell her a hat, "But I do not _feel_ like
+that hat!" The saleswoman replied, "That's just it--you refuse to buy it
+because you do not _feel_ like it, while I tell you that it is most
+becoming." All of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most
+remote idea of what was meant, and had a total lack of understanding.
+
+Clothes _should_ be a matter of "feeling," and this same feeling is
+something vital and should be catered to if our garments are to help
+set our spirits free. Why should we wear anything which is misleading in
+regard to ourselves? Let us look in the mirror each day and ask
+ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are.
+
+It is important in planning a hat to see it in broad daylight as well as
+under artificial light. It should also be tried on in a good light while
+_standing_ before a mirror, as a hat which may seem becoming while
+sitting may not be so while standing, with the whole figure taken into
+consideration.
+
+To make one's own hats, using up old materials, stimulates originality
+and gives opportunity for expression. It is amazing to see how many new
+ideas are born when we start out to do something which we have thought
+quite impossible. It all helps to give added zest to life. Making one's
+own hats appeals to the constructive instinct of every woman aside from
+the matter of thrift, which should always be taken into consideration.
+Some one will say, "I would not wear any hat I might make." How often
+have we worn unbecoming hats, poor in workmanship, besides paying some
+one handsomely for the privilege. Let us try to form some standard by
+which to judge of the worth of a hat instead of the maker's name.
+
+Before making a hat, the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over
+to see with what the hat must be worn, and the kind of service we are
+going to expect from it. Every article of a costume should be related
+and harmonious as to color, outline, and suitability. The result should
+be a perfect whole without a single discord. How often we see a green
+skirt, mustard-colored coat, and a bright blue hat--each article
+pleasing by itself, but atrocious when worn collectively. Bright, gay
+little hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon tire of one if it
+must be worn daily.
+
+Time and our best thought are well spent in planning our apparel. The
+proper clothing gives us confidence and self-respect, and the respect of
+others. To be well dressed is to be free from the thought of clothes. We
+judge and are judged by the clothes we wear--they are an outward
+expression of ourselves, and speak for us, while we must remain silent.
+
+"Simplicity is the keynote of beauty"--no one article of clothing should
+stand out too conspicuously, unless it _is_ the hat. Nature uses bright
+colors sparingly. If you look at a plant, you find it dark near the
+ground, growing lighter near the top with its green leaves, and then the
+blossom; the glory is at the _top_. Everything in nature teaches us to
+_look up_. So the hat should be the crowning glory of a costume, the
+center of interest, and should receive the most careful attention as to
+becomingness, suitability, and workmanship.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+     I. EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS                                      1
+
+    II. COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET                                  15
+
+   III. FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE                              31
+
+    IV. WIRE FRAMES                                                 35
+
+     V. ROUND CROWN OF WIRE                                         44
+
+    VI. HAT COVERINGS                                               54
+
+   VII. TRIMMINGS                                                   68
+
+  VIII. HAND-MADE FLOWERS                                           78
+
+    IX. REMODELING AND RENOVATING                                  100
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN
+  PLACE                                                              4
+
+  SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM                   16
+
+  SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO SEW IN
+  PLACE                                                             16
+
+  VARIOUS PROCESSES                                                 36
+
+  FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID                                          44
+
+  ROLLING WIRE BRIM                                                 44
+
+  ROUND CROWN OF WIRE                                               44
+
+  ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN PLACE     54
+
+  SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN    64
+
+  RIBBON TRIMMINGS                                                  72
+
+  HAND-MADE FLOWERS                                                 78
+
+
+
+
+MAKE YOUR OWN HAT
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS
+
+
+EQUIPMENT
+
+  Thimble
+  Thread
+  Needles
+  Tape-measure
+  Pins
+  Tailor's chalk or pencil
+  Milliner's pliers or wire cutters
+  Scissors, large and small
+  Paper for patterns
+
+_Thimble_--good quality
+
+_Thread_--Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Colored thread as
+needed.
+
+_Needles_--assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 to 10.
+
+_Tape-measure_--of good quality sateen.
+
+_Tailor's chalk_--white and dark blue.
+
+_Milliner's pliers_--pliers which fit the hand, not too heavy, with
+blunt points, and sharp enough to cut a thread.
+
+
+MATERIALS USED TO MAKE HAT FRAMES
+
+_Fabrics_--
+
+  Buckram
+  Crinoline
+  Cape net
+  Neteen or Fly net
+  Willow plate
+
+_Wires_--
+
+  Cable
+  Frame or brace wire
+  Lace
+  Tie
+  Ribbon
+  Sprung
+
+_Paper for patterns_--
+
+  Heavy manila
+
+
+BUCKRAM--
+
+Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff
+material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more
+commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a
+summer buckram, lighter in weight and smooth on both sides.
+
+
+CRINOLINE--
+
+Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff, thin,
+open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire
+frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the
+fabric frame.
+
+
+NETEEN OR FLY NET--
+
+A stiff open-meshed material--comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard
+wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and
+lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being
+much softer than when made with buckram. Very durable.
+
+
+CAPE NET--
+
+A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft
+frames. Not as pliable as neteen.
+
+
+WILLOW PLATE--
+
+A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very
+expensive, used in blocking; frames are also made from it without
+blocking.
+
+Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs.
+
+
+WIRE comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and is covered with
+cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. It may be procured in single and
+double bolts.
+
+
+CABLE--
+
+Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as
+edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame
+wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame
+design, if it is to be covered with sheer material.
+
+
+FRAME OR BRACE WIRE--
+
+Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric
+hat frames.
+
+
+LACE--
+
+Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and
+sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is
+desired.
+
+[Illustration: SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES
+BASTED IN PLACE]
+
+
+TIE--
+
+Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on spools. Is used
+to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black,
+white, and green.
+
+
+RIBBON--
+
+A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire
+woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire
+ribbons.
+
+
+SPRUNG--
+
+An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on
+edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or
+if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge
+wire on wire frames.
+
+
+
+HAT FRAMES OF FABRIC
+
+Much care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame
+of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made
+no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step
+of the way. The frame is the first step, and so the most important.
+
+The simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square
+crown, covered with velvet. Such a model we will take up at first.
+
+
+SAILOR HAT FRAME--
+
+For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim,
+three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of
+crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and
+one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inches.
+
+
+PATTERN FOR BRIM--
+
+Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and
+one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded
+into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased.
+
+A round brim will not be of equal width all around from headsize wire,
+because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head. The front and
+back will both be about an inch narrower than the sides.
+
+
+HEADSIZE WIRE--
+
+TO MEASURE--This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this
+measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation
+wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat
+is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the
+ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which
+goes up into the headsize.[7-1]
+
+As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame
+wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just
+mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire.[7-2]
+Wire always laps one inch--no more, no less.
+
+TO SHAPE--With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated
+to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part
+of the head.
+
+TO LOCATE HEADSIZE ON PATTERN--Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on
+pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front
+of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark
+all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper
+one-half inch inside this mark.
+
+TO CUT BUCKRAM BRIM--Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut
+the edges very smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of
+center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press
+the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp
+bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily
+repaired.
+
+TO SEW HEADSIZE WIRE TO BRIM--First note the relation of headsize wire
+to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half
+inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance
+of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire,
+the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on
+each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on
+smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each
+side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring
+needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take
+stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right
+side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back
+to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten
+thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in
+order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram
+inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes
+small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be
+tried on and changes made if necessary.
+
+
+EDGE WIRE--
+
+This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge
+of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim
+as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire
+to conform to shape of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to
+hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward
+you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as
+possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting
+stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the
+depth of the wire. If too shallow, the wire will slip off over the edge,
+or, if too deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it
+unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking. A frame must
+be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when
+finished.
+
+TO COVER EDGE WIRE--All edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a
+cheap muslin. Cut a strip of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of
+an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the strip. Bind the edge
+wire with it, holding it very tight. Sew close to wire using a stab
+stitch.
+
+
+RIGHT SIDE--WRONG SIDE--
+
+This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a
+short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch
+at finish, but do not turn ends under.
+
+
+SQUARE CROWN--
+
+A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded,
+with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type
+three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and
+one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made
+separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire
+on the brim at the base. To eliminate any slashes or seams in the side
+crown, a paper pattern should be made. Following paragraphs explain how
+this is done.
+
+PATTERN FOR SLANTING SIDE CROWN--
+
+Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and
+one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper
+in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of
+bottom, then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch, or
+about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap
+ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on
+brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to
+see if any alterations are necessary. It can be decided at this point
+and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight. An
+amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and
+curves that are becoming. Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top
+and bottom any irregularities on the edge.
+
+
+TO CUT SIDE CROWN FROM BUCKRAM--
+
+Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay
+pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to
+take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends
+one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine back stitch close to each edge; this
+makes two rows of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom
+of side crown, keeping all joining at back. Use same method as in sewing
+edge wire on brim. Cover both wires with crinoline.
+
+
+CROWN TIPS--
+
+The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of
+buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given.
+
+SOFT CROWN TIP--First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim,
+which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the
+crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a very
+little, and sew with stab stitch close under wire. Cut surplus material
+off to one-fourth inch.
+
+STIFF CROWN TIP, MADE OF BUCKRAM--Lay top of side crown on smooth side
+of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half inch
+outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip,
+it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the
+pencil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch apart. Cut them
+close to the line drawn. Pin this piece on top of crown, press flaps
+down and sew on with stab stitch.
+
+
+CROWNS--
+
+If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent
+separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is
+purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill
+has been acquired by the student of millinery, a round crown of fabric
+may be blocked by hand over a wire crown.
+
+
+TO COVER ROUND CROWN--
+
+Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight
+of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch
+below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this
+stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of material, using same method
+and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew
+the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this
+bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom
+of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in
+finishing edge of facing on brim.[13-1] This makes a neat finish for a
+hat which will demand little trimming. If the amateur finds it too
+difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, the edge may
+be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon; the top may also
+be finished by a narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire should
+be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 7-1: To cut wire see chapter IV.]
+
+[Footnote 7-2: To tie wire see chapter IV.]
+
+[Footnote 13-1: See chapter II.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET
+
+
+Material required one and one-half yards milliner's velvet or any velvet
+eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. If velvet used is thirty-six inches
+wide, one yard will be sufficient.
+
+
+TO COVER BRIM--
+
+Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side (smooth side).
+Edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet
+over edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right angles to brim to
+avoid marring the velvet. Pin closely all around edge of brim, pulling
+material with the thread to remove any fullness. Do not pull tight
+enough to bend the brim. Trim velvet off one-fourth inch to turn under
+brim. Baste close to headsize wire on top with stab stitch. Cut velvet
+out inside of headsize wire, leaving a half inch to slash and turn up
+with the buckram.
+
+
+TO SEW VELVET EDGE TO BRIM--
+
+This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side,
+being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It
+is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in
+from the edge about one-fourth inch with the sewing machine, using a
+long stitch. This stitching may then be used to put the needle through
+when sewing the velvet down. If the velvet seems thick and heavy-looking
+on under side after sewing, it may be pressed down with a hot iron. If
+done quickly and lightly, it will not show on the right side.
+
+[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM]
+
+
+TO FACE UNDER SIDE OF BRIM--
+
+Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of
+brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around
+edge, leaving a little _less_ than one-fourth inch to turn under.
+Facings are usually finished at the edge with a wire. Cut a piece of
+frame wire the exact circumference of the brim, plus one inch for lap.
+Bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of velvet, beginning at the
+center back. Roll velvet over wire and bring out to edge. Pin in place
+all the way around before beginning to sew. Place pins in at right
+angles to brim. A piece of velvet held in the left hand will prevent
+finger marks from showing on the velvet. Begin to sew at left of wire
+joining, while holding underside of brim towards you. Bring needle
+through from back close under wire. With the head of the needle press
+velvet along under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the thread
+of the next stitch. Take nearly a half-inch stitch by placing needle
+close under the wire and coming through between the wire and the upper
+facing. Come back under the wire with a very small back stitch, being
+careful to adjust the wire as you sew, and to catch a little of the
+upper covering with each back stitch. When wire joining is reached,
+treat the lapped ends as one wire. Fasten ends securely by taking
+several small back stitches. Lace wire, being smaller than frame wire,
+is sometimes used to finish the edge of facing. It does not look as
+heavy, but is somewhat more difficult for a beginner to handle.
+
+[Illustration: SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO
+SEW IN PLACE]
+
+
+TO COVER CROWN TOP--
+
+To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front, same
+shape as top of crown plus one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch
+from edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in place, and sew
+with stab stitch over line of gathering. Make the edge lie as flat as
+possible and do not draw velvet too tight across the top.
+
+
+TO COVER SIDE CROWN--
+
+Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than
+height of crown. Pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find
+length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of
+material with warp thread. (Warp thread is parallel with selvage.)
+Remove velvet and stitch seam. Open it and press by drawing it over the
+edge of a hot iron.
+
+
+TO SEW CROWN ON BRIM--
+
+The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before
+adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of
+crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim
+and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wire. Stretch the velvet strip for
+side crown on the crown, placing seam at back, unless trimming has been
+planned which will cover the seam better if it is placed at some other
+point. Turn top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown, and press
+bottom fold down close to brim. If this band has been fitted tight
+enough, it will not be found necessary to sew it.
+
+
+EDGE OF BRIM FACING, WHEN FINISHED WITHOUT WIRE--
+
+A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath
+without a wire, the edges being slipstitched together. In this case, the
+underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place
+all the way around before beginning to sew. Bring the needle through
+from underside of facing to the very edge of fold. Place point of needle
+directly opposite this stitch and take a small stitch in upper facing,
+then take a small stitch in underfacing. Each stitch always begins just
+opposite the ending of preceding stitch, so that the thread between the
+two facings crosses the seam at right angles to edge of brim. This
+method makes the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out of
+place; however, this style of finishing an edge is not popular and
+requires much practice.
+
+
+TO COVER NARROW BRIM SAILOR WITHOUT AN EDGE SEAM--
+
+This method can be used satisfactorily only when the brim is narrow,
+and the fabric pliable. For convenience we will give measurements as for
+a two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge measuring forty
+inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet forty inches long and seven inches
+wide. Fold this velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins every
+three inches through edge of fold at right angles to edge and close to
+edge. This is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the
+brim. If the velvet is not placed evenly, there will be found a greater
+amount of fullness on one side than on the other. Place velvet over the
+brim and pin on edge at points marked by pins. Stretch as tight as
+possible. On a brim of this width all of the fullness should be worked
+out. If this is found to be very difficult, lay the brim aside, with the
+velvet pinned on, for an hour or for overnight, and the velvet will be
+found to give a little more. Remove as much of the length as possible.
+Locate seam, remove from frame, sew seam, and replace as before. Sew on
+top close to headsize wire, working out all the fullness possible; pull
+under part up into headsize. Sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire
+onto the flaps, being careful not to pull the thread too tight or the
+headsize wire will be reduced in size.
+
+
+FACINGS--
+
+A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing
+on a black hat. The entire facing may be of a contrasting color or
+extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the
+brim. In this case there could be a strip of material the same as upper
+facing an inch and a half wide finished at the edge of the brim with a
+wire. Then the colored facing would be finished over the edge of this
+with another wire.
+
+
+BRIMS COVERED WITH TWO KINDS OF FABRIC--
+
+A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics,
+which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of
+old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the
+same time have much charm. For instance, the edge of the hat could have
+a bias band of satin, two or more inches wide, stretched around the edge
+of the brim, with the rest of the brim covered with velvet overlapping
+the satin and finished with a wire both on top and bottom, or only on
+one side. Underside of brim may be finished the same way, or the facing
+may be brought out even with the edge and finished with a wire.
+
+
+SHAPED BRIM FOUNDATION--
+
+The simplest _shaped_ brim is the mushroom style.
+
+
+TO MAKE PATTERN FOR BRIM--
+
+Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure
+the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the
+head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim
+droop, slash the pattern from the edge to the headsize wire in four
+different places equally distant. Lap these slashes one-fourth inch at
+the edge, and pin. The pattern may also be slashed in eight or more
+different places if desired, the slashes being adjusted by lapping more
+or less according to the amount of droop which may be becoming.
+
+After the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark with a pencil all
+around just inside the headsize wire. Remove the wire and cut the paper
+on this line. Cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat on smooth side
+of buckram, leaving pins in slashes. Cut close to outside edge and allow
+one-fourth inch for the lap at ends. Mark on buckram with pencil close
+to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside this mark. Lap ends
+one-fourth inch and backstitch closely at each edge of flap. Sew a
+strip of crinoline flat over seam to smooth it up. Sew headsize wire on
+place marked, which will be one-half inch from inside edge. Keep all
+joinings at back. Slash buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every
+half inch. Wire edge of brim and cover wire with crinoline--same method
+as used on sailor brim.
+
+
+TO COVER A MUSHROOM-SHAPED BRIM--
+
+If not very drooping, it may be covered without making a seam in the
+material. To do this, begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top
+at the front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, always
+pulling with the thread of the material, and pin closely at edge, with
+pins at right angles to the brim. If covered with georgette, satin or
+silk, which is pliable, the fullness may all be worked out without a
+seam. Baste close to headsize wire and finish edge by following same
+method as used in finishing sailor brim. Also follow same method with
+facing. If the material used is not pliable, or if the brim is too
+drooping to admit of stretching the material smoothly, a seam must be
+made at the back. The method would be the same as used in covering the
+rolled brim.
+
+
+SHEER MATERIALS--
+
+In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, it is advisable to line
+with some other material first. The color could be made deeper by using
+a lining of the same color, or made paler by lining with white. The
+lining should be fitted and sewed on with the outside material.
+
+
+PATTERN FOR HAT WITH ROLLED OR CLOSE-FITTING BRIM--
+
+The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The
+headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on.
+The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge,
+the slashes lapped over and pinned. If the hat is to be rolled more
+closely on one side than on the other, the greater number of slashes
+must be placed there. In this way the pattern can be adjusted to any
+desired shape. It is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern
+through in the back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay out flat on
+another piece of paper for a new pattern. This eliminates some of the
+slashes and makes further experiments easier. Pattern-making is very
+important, and it is of extreme value to make as many patterns as
+possible before cutting the foundation fabric. Changing a pattern the
+slightest sometimes makes a great deal of difference in its
+becomingness. Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or two
+in the buckram, or by inserting a V shape to give more flare, but the
+fewer seams the better for the hat frame. A rolled or close-fitting brim
+is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom shape.
+
+
+TO COVER A CLOSE-FITTING OR ROLLED BRIM--
+
+Place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge.
+Always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first
+lesson. Draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin. Work the
+material out smoothly toward the left and pin at the edge; also at the
+headsize wire. Then proceed in the same way toward the right, always
+pinning closely. Be _sure_ to keep the material tight and smooth both at
+edge and at the headsize wire. Allow the fullness to go where it will.
+The seam should be located at the center back. Cut away all superfluous
+material, allowing three-eighths of an inch seam at the center back.
+Turn the raw edges under away from each other at the seam and
+slipstitch together neatly.
+
+
+TO SLIPSTITCH SEAM--
+
+Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle
+through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along
+in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the
+edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the
+fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly
+opposite the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the material out from
+inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for
+something else. Examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits
+perfectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the
+outside; remove all pins as soon as possible. After basting this, you
+will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at
+the edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down
+with an overcasting stitch.
+
+
+TO GLUE VELVET TO THE BRIM--
+
+When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult
+to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we
+resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric
+thinner than velvet, or on any frame other than buckram. Care should
+always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when the
+velvet is to be glued on.
+
+After fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the seam in the back,
+remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the
+headsize where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the
+buckram. The glue must be spread very evenly. It will make a neater job
+to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further. Be very
+careful to keep the glue away from the right side of the velvet. Next,
+rub the glue on the frame with a stiff brush until it is smooth, then
+spread the velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it with the
+hands from the headsize wire out. Watch it carefully for any places
+which have not sufficient glue, as the material may be raised before it
+is dry and more glue added. Do not sew the edge until the glue has
+dried. Usually it is only the material on the upper side of the brim
+which needs gluing down. The facing may be put on as desired. Sometimes
+the top of a crown has indentations, and then the velvet may be glued to
+stay in place.
+
+The under or outer facing may be fitted to a rolled or close-fitting
+brim more easily than the upper. Beginning at the front with the corner
+of the material, pin at the edge and at the headsize wire. Keep the
+material smooth; work from right to left, and then from left to right.
+Work the material around to where the seam is to be made. Cut away all
+superfluous material, allowing three-eighths of an inch for a seam.
+Slipstitch together as on the top and finish the edge over wire.
+Whenever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material.
+
+
+A SHIRRED CROWN OF FABRIC--
+
+There are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which
+taffeta, satin, georgette, or velvet may be used. Velvet is especially
+beautiful made up in this way. The first method is the preferred. Cut a
+circular piece of material, having a diameter the length of the crown
+from front to back, measuring over the top from the headsize wire, plus
+four inches.
+
+On the wrong side of the material mark circles (concentric) one-half
+inch apart, after first having marked a circle in the center about three
+inches in diameter. Gather on the line of each circle with a fine
+running stitch and bring the thread through to the right side as each
+circle is completed.
+
+Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut a small hole at this
+point. Pull thread of the smallest circle up tight. This will form a bag
+which should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the
+crown top and sewed securely in place. The material should be pinned
+down at four equal points at the edge of the crown, the threads of the
+other circles pulled up until the material fits the crown snugly. Adjust
+the fullness evenly and sew in place. This is an excellent way to use up
+old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects.
+
+The second method does not make as pleasing an effect, but may be used
+when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be
+cut from it. A bias strip about eight inches wide and long enough to
+reach around the crown, plus three or four inches, should be joined on
+the lengthwise thread of the material. The first shirring or gathering
+should be one-half inch from the edge, the additional threads should be
+run in evenly every half inch. The first thread near the edge should
+then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the
+hole in the top of the crown. This method will require a somewhat larger
+opening than the first. The material is then drawn down on the outside
+and pinned to the bottom of the crown; the threads are then pulled tight
+and firm and are fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly and sew in
+place.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE
+
+
+Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where
+the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same
+allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double
+to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on
+another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie
+parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same
+size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with
+fine thread, making one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for
+this as a coarse thread might show through the covering.
+
+
+TO JOIN THE SEAM IN THE BACK--
+
+Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely.
+This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a
+strip of crinoline to smooth it up.
+
+
+TO SEW EDGE WIRE ON NETEEN--
+
+It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained,
+however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge
+first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken
+in handling neteen to preserve the shape, as it is very easily stretched
+and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same method
+is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame. The
+velvet, if velvet is used, can be glued on, but the material is so
+porous that it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline make
+excellent foundations for braid hats, as these materials are light in
+weight, soft, and pliable. They are also very satisfactory for
+children's hats.
+
+
+TO MAKE A TURBAN FRAME OF NETEEN OR CRINOLINE--
+
+Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height
+desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement
+plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which
+is usually more becoming. Join the ends of bias strips on the warp
+thread.
+
+
+TO WIRE TURBAN FLARE--
+
+Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to
+stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two
+inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom,
+stretching the fabric to fit if a flare is desired. A roll may be made
+by slightly fulling the fabric on to the wire, which must be smaller
+than for a flare. If the side of the crown is to be curved in slightly,
+this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and
+the bottom, drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin the tape
+and sew in place. Sew another wire high enough above the tape to make
+the crown the required height. If the crown is to be flared a little at
+top, sew the wire inside and stretch the material as much as desired. If
+the top of the crown is to be drawn in, sew the wire on the outside,
+making the crown slightly smaller at the top. If sufficient material is
+allowed at the top the extra amount may be drawn up over a small circle
+of wire to make the crown top, but an extra piece cut for this purpose
+is more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made from an extra piece
+sewed over the top after the side is finished.
+
+
+COVERING TURBANS--
+
+Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the
+matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of
+place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone
+or in combination with fabric. Velvets, georgette, satin, and taffeta
+are used. A turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a
+charming hat: the lower edge invariably looks better if first bound with
+a bias piece of velvet no matter what the covering may be--it seems to
+give a softer look around the face. A round crown of buckram makes a
+good turban frame if a bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to
+the lower edge to give a little flare. A frame of this kind may be
+draped with velvet, satin, georgette, or any pliable material, and when
+skillfully done the effect is beautiful indeed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+WIRE FRAMES
+
+
+EQUIPMENT
+
+  Brace wire or frame wire
+  Tie wire
+  Sprung wire
+  Pliers
+
+
+TO OPEN COIL OF WIRE--
+
+Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen
+gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils
+separate.
+
+
+TO CUT WIRE--
+
+Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the
+point where they cut and press straight down. Be sure to cut with the
+first attempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the pliers are
+injured and the covering loosened at the ends of the wire which will
+make it impossible to tie them together.
+
+
+TO STRAIGHTEN WIRE--
+
+Pass the wire between the thumb and finger with a sweeping motion. A
+piece of cloth or paper may be held in the hand if the fingers become
+tender. Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting to straighten
+it, as it will be impossible to remove them.
+
+
+TO TIE WIRE--
+
+Ends of brace wire parallel.
+
+Right angles tied diagonally.
+
+Brace wire tied without use of tie wire.
+
+Before beginning to make a frame of wire, time will be saved and
+necessary experience gained by tying a few short pieces of wire, until a
+strong joint can be made. Cut fifty pieces or more of tie wire
+three-quarters of an inch long. Cut two pieces of brace or frame wire
+two or three inches long. Lap the ends of the heavy wire one inch, then
+lap one of these pieces of tie wire around once as close to the end of
+the brace wire as is possible. Hold in the left hand and with the end of
+the pliers grasp the ends of the tie wire as close to the brace wire as
+possible and twist tightly until the joint feels firm. Place pliers back
+a little and twist several times until a little cable is formed. Cut
+this off, leaving an eighth-inch end. Press this end down flat with the
+jaws of the pliers. Tie the other end in the same manner. Practice this
+until a satisfactory joint can be made with ease, before attempting to
+make a frame of wire.
+
+[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE]
+
+[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH USE OF TIE WIRE]
+
+[Illustration: METHOD OF MAKING PAPER PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM]
+
+[Illustration: METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON DROOPING BRIM]
+
+[Illustration: BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT
+LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS VERY GREAT]
+
+[Illustration: PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC.
+ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT]
+
+
+TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE DIAGONALLY--
+
+TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE WITHOUT THE USE OF TIE WIRE--
+
+Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened,
+at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches
+extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the
+end straight backward, close to and parallel with the other end of the
+wire. The end should pass once and a half around. Use the jaws of the
+pliers to press parallel wires in the twist together, and to tighten the
+twist. Cut the end off close and use the pliers to press the end down
+flat.
+
+
+TO MAKE WIRE FRAME FOR HAT HAVING FLAT BRIM AND SQUARE CROWN--
+
+Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a
+paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of
+the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more
+satisfactory first to make a paper pattern.
+
+
+PATTERN FOR BRIM--
+
+Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to
+fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply.
+Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease.
+This is to determine the position of the wire spokes in the brim. The
+eight creases will correspond to the eight spokes in the brim; this is
+the correct number of spokes.
+
+
+HEADSIZE WIRE FOR WIRE FRAME--
+
+A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut two just alike,
+remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in
+any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements
+taken for this wire. Measure as for the headsize in a fabric hat,
+lapping the ends one inch, and tying them. Try on these wires and shape
+to fit the head. They should usually be elongated two inches.
+
+Pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern, placing the joining on the
+back crease and the exact center front of wire on the front crease; next
+pin the sides securely, being careful to keep the wire shaped to fit the
+head. Allow one-half inch inside of wire and slash every half inch out
+to headsize wire. The pattern may now be tried on the head for any
+necessary alterations. The brim pattern may be added to or cut away.
+
+
+WORKING MEASUREMENTS NEEDED--
+
+Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire. Before
+removing the wire, mark the eight different points where it crosses the
+creases in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the pattern.
+
+
+STICKS FOR BRIM--
+
+Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter
+of the brim plus three inches for finishing. Place one of these sticks
+across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the
+pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal length. Fasten to the
+headsize wire with tie wire. Place the next stick from side to side,
+joining on the pencil marks. The two remaining sticks when placed on the
+remaining marks divide the circle into eighths. This is called the
+skeleton of the brim; the wires are named _front_, _back_, _right side_,
+_left side_, _right side front_, _right side back_, _left side front_,
+_left side back_. The position of these ends or spokes should correspond
+to the creases in the paper pattern, and the length of each one should
+be determined by measuring the corresponding crease on the pattern.
+
+
+EDGE WIRE--
+
+Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the
+brim plus one inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the
+pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it, always
+keeping the tied ends on the back crease. If these measurements are
+carefully made, the brim will be exactly like the pattern.
+
+
+TO JOIN EDGE WIRE--
+
+Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke
+at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around
+the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut
+the end off close and press the cut end flat with the pliers. Next
+finish the center front spoke, then the sides and those in between. A
+great deal depends upon accuracy in making an acceptable wire frame. Add
+as many circles of wire between the edge wire and the headsize wire as
+desired, fastening to the spokes with tie wire. Keep all wire laps at
+the back on the center spoke.
+
+
+COLLAR OF BRIM--
+
+Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these
+wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at
+right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the
+top of these wires, using the same method as for joining the edge wire.
+This collar may be made very low or as high as the wires will permit. A
+separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very
+sheer material or sheer braid. In such a case the collar would be made
+as high as possible to make a support for the crown trimming.
+
+
+SQUARE CROWN FOR WIRE FRAME--
+
+Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to
+reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown
+to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for
+finishing. Cut and join a small circle of brace wire--about three inches
+in diameter--for the crown top. Lay the four sticks across this circle
+dividing it into eight equal sections as at the beginning of the brim,
+and join to the sticks with tie wire. Cut a piece of brace wire one inch
+smaller than the headsize wire. Lap the ends and tie this wire. Elongate
+slightly. Join to the sticks outside of the small circle. Keep all
+lapped ends of circles on the center back spoke. Bend spokes down _over_
+this circle, then measure down from this circle for the height of crown
+and mark on spokes with pencil. Be very accurate.
+
+
+BASE WIRE FOR CROWN--
+
+Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the
+headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base
+wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize
+wire on the brim. Place this circle, after having shaped it like the
+headsize wire, on the inside of the spokes at the point marked,
+beginning at the center back, and finish as any edge wire by twisting
+the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire. Press the wires
+down tight with the pliers. Cut the ends off close and press flat with
+the jaws of the pliers. Many more circles may be added and tied on with
+tie wire if desired; also more spokes may be added. This would be
+desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or if used for
+blocking fabric for frames.
+
+
+TRANSPARENT HATS--
+
+If a wire frame is to be covered with thin material, great care and
+thought should be given to the frame, for it then forms part of the
+design of the hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in this case, or a
+beautiful frame may be made for thin materials by using a satin-covered
+cable wire, and using as few wires as possible. It may seem advisable
+after a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+ROUND CROWN OF WIRE
+
+
+A round crown is one which rounds from tip to base. First straighten,
+measure, and cut four sticks of brace wire, as for square crown, of the
+ordinary length, allowing for finishing. Cut and join the ends of a
+short piece of brace wire five or six inches long. This makes a small
+circle for the top of the crown. Begin by tying the sticks across this
+circle under it, dividing it into halves, quarters, and eighths, being
+careful that the divisions are made accurately and that the sticks
+extend an equal length from the circle. Keep these wires _flat_ across
+this circle. The sticks may now be curved down. It is sometimes found
+easier to attach the base wire at this point before adding other
+circles.
+
+[Illustration: FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID]
+
+[Illustration: ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS
+MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED]
+
+[Illustration: ROUND CROWN OF WIRE]
+
+
+BASE WIRE--
+
+Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer than the wire used for
+the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch. Make this the same shape as
+the headsize wire and test the size by trying it on over the headsize
+wire on the brim for which the crown is made. An ordinary height for a
+round crown would be seven inches from tip to base wire, but to be safe,
+it is always better to measure the head. Sometimes, on account of an
+abundance of hair or a high coiffure, a greater height is needed. If the
+base wire is elongated to fit the head, the side measurement from the
+tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter than from the tip to
+the front and the back. It will be most helpful to take an old crown
+which has an elongated headsize and either measure it and work from the
+measures or else work over it.
+
+The crown must be even at the bottom when finished, and when placed upon
+the table must rest evenly. The base wire may be tied with tie wire on
+the front and back spokes and on each side spoke until the circles
+between it and the crown tip are added. It will then be found easy to
+adjust it before finishing off the wires; i.e., the crown may be made
+higher or lower.
+
+
+CIRCLES OR HOOPS--
+
+Add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at
+the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same
+size. Keep all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will
+conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little
+further apart at the front and back than at the sides.
+
+
+TO FINISH THE BASE OF THE CROWN--
+
+The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base
+wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the
+brim.
+
+
+A SHAPED WIRE FRAME MADE IN ONE PIECE--
+
+The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or
+one that droops a little. Before beginning this hat it will be found
+easier to have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be necessary to
+make a pattern for the crown, which may be either round or square, and
+for which directions have already been given.
+
+
+PATTERN FOR BRIM--
+
+Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric
+shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or
+fit quite close. In either case the method is the same.
+
+Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on to shape. Mark on the
+wire at the point where the creases touch the wire. It is important not
+to hurry at this point. Make many patterns and then choose the most
+becoming one. After the pattern is perfected, crease it sharply the same
+as in the sailor brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern and
+use them in marking the wires. This brim pattern is not needed until the
+crown has been made. In making a wire frame in one piece, we begin at
+the top of the crown and work down.
+
+
+CROWN--
+
+Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the
+width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to
+finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming
+frayed it is better to have a generous allowance. Begin at the crown tip
+and work down until ready for the headsize wire. The last wire is or
+should be of the same size as the regular headsize wire. Place the lap
+of the headsize wire on the back spoke of the crown and join by twisting
+the spokes once and a half around. Join the front and remaining spokes
+in the same way, being careful to join where the wire was marked at the
+creases on the pattern.
+
+
+BRIM--
+
+We are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern.
+Mark the length of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are to be
+apart should be marked on the edge wire. These measurements are taken
+from the pattern. Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as
+many circles between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired.
+
+We have now made in wire the first variation from a perfectly flat brim.
+Always make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and
+then measurements may be taken from the hat to be copied. Here are some
+of the reasons why the pattern is important: first, it may be tried on
+and this helps to decide if the style is becoming, before working it out
+in wire; second, the position of the wires may be determined and marked
+on the paper pattern; third, the more work done from a paper pattern the
+easier it will be to copy; fourth, it trains the eye, thus making
+free-hand work much easier.
+
+
+A ROLLING BRIM--
+
+Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim, the same
+method is used. First, as always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to
+roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other, extra wires
+will be needed to fill the space. The place for these may be determined
+on the paper pattern. They may go all the way around, being brought more
+closely together on the low side or only part way around as in the
+illustration.
+
+Wire frame making requires much patience and practice. It is an art just
+as all millinery is an art. Lines are all important. Because of this I
+urge much pattern making. Even though one may not have the fundamental
+principles of art, something really good often develops and we find we
+have built better than we knew. It stimulates originality, but we must
+work without _fear_.
+
+
+TO COLOR WIRE FRAMES--
+
+Wires come in both black and white. A white frame may be colored to
+match any sheer fabric used for its covering. It will be found to be
+more simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of the cold or soap
+dyes may be used. If these are not available, a piece of velveteen
+soaked in alcohol and rubbed on the frame will give of its color
+sufficiently to tint the wire. Crepe paper may also be used, or
+water-color paints. Rouge may be used effectively if moistened. There
+are also gold and silver wires which may be used for frames when
+desired, and which will add to the beauty of the design. If they cannot
+be purchased, a frame of white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt,
+applying it to the frame with a small brush.
+
+
+HALO HAT BRIMS--
+
+Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but to be effective the material
+should be sheer. Malines, nets, georgette crepe, or chiffon are all used
+to good effect in making this style of hat. Good-looking halo brims have
+been made from old georgette waists, using the back for the brim and the
+front and sleeves for the crown.
+
+Only two wires are used in making this brim, the edge wire and the
+headsize wire. The size of the brim is to be determined and then a hoop
+of sprung wire cut just the length of the circumference of the brim.
+This wire is uncovered; the ends just meet and are joined by the use of
+a little clamp, the ends being inserted and pressed down with the jaws
+of the pliers.
+
+Place the material from which the brim is to be made upon a flat
+surface. If of maline, several thicknesses may be used. Fasten this
+material down to the table slightly with pins or thumb tacks. Lay a
+circle of sprung wire on the material and pin in place. Begin by pinning
+the back, front, and then each side, being careful not to pull the wire
+out of shape. Take the work up and pin the material closely all around
+the edge. Cut off, allowing one-quarter of an inch to turn over the
+wire. Sew to the wire closely with an overcasting stitch or with a
+running stitch just inside of the wire. The edge may be bound with a
+fold of the same material, a fold of satin or one row of braid.
+
+
+HEADSIZE WIRE FOR HALO BRIM--
+
+This headsize wire is made of frame wire. First measure, then cut, join
+ends, and shape as for any hat. Lay the headsize wire on the material,
+having the joining at the back. The front and the back of the brim, if
+of equal width, will be somewhat narrower than the side because of the
+elongated headsize wire; however, the headsize wire may be placed on
+the brim in any position desired. Pin in place and sew with an
+overcasting stitch. Trim the material inside the headsize wire, leaving
+an extension of one-quarter of an inch to turn over; it will be found
+necessary to sew this down over the wire, making the edge more secure.
+
+Another method of making a halo brim is accomplished by cutting a piece
+of material on the bias, twice as wide as the brim and as long as the
+circumference. Stretch this piece of material, then pin the center of
+the strip over the edge wire, gather the raw edges to fit the headsize
+wire and sew in place. This method does not make a smooth brim, but is
+more quickly made. When two thicknesses of sheer material are used for
+halo brims a very pretty effect is obtained by placing flat flowers,
+petals of flowers, or feathers between the two materials.
+
+
+CROWN FOR HALO BRIM--
+
+This may be very sheer, although a halo brim may be used on a braid or
+satin crown if desired. A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of
+a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. This is sewed to the
+headsize wire. The covering for the crown is usually made in the shape
+of a circle about fourteen inches in diameter, with the same number of
+thicknesses as the brim. Gather one-quarter of an inch from the edge,
+adjust fullness and sew to the headsize wire. The height of the crown
+depends upon the style of hair dressing. Place a band of the same
+material as the crown, or a narrow ribbon, around the base of the crown
+for trimming and to conceal the wires. A wired bow of the sheer material
+may be used very effectively. (See chapter on "Bows.")
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+HAT COVERINGS
+
+
+TO COVER WITH BRAID--
+
+Great care and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw
+braid. The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied,
+as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames.
+(See illustration.)
+
+The stitch used for sewing braid is always the same--a very short stitch
+on the right side, and a stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong
+side. The thread must not be pulled too tight, or the position of the
+stitches may be seen; also always match the thread to the straw. Straw
+braid may be sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline frame
+except when a _very_ soft hat is desired; it may then be sewed and
+shaped over a wire or buckram frame, but not on to it, as it is to be
+removed from the frame after sewing; or, if the braid is coarse, it may
+be sewed to a wire frame which has been previously covered with
+crinoline or mull. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN
+PLACE]
+
+Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while a fabric is used on top.
+In this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitches
+may be taken through the brim, which the fabric on top will cover.
+
+
+TO PIN IN PLACE ON THE FRAME--
+
+Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim,
+beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the
+right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back
+is reached. Curve the second row gradually up from the center back; do
+not make an abrupt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usually
+one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a thread at the edge of most
+braids which may be pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed
+on a curve. The outside edge of the first row must be left free for the
+edge of the fabric, which covers the other side, to be slipped under. Do
+not begin sewing until the second row is basted in place.
+
+
+TO SEW--
+
+Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under
+side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and
+the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the
+thread is not pulled too tight. Take a stitch on the wrong side from
+one-quarter to one-half an inch in length, depending upon the width and
+quality of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the braid until the
+headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one
+inch. If the brim is wider at some points than at others, the wider side
+must be filled in with short strips following the same curve, being
+careful that the ends are left long enough to extend up beyond the
+headsize wire one inch. When the brim is very much wider at some points,
+short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is
+sewed; this would not make such an abrupt curve, and the general lines
+of the braid would be more pleasing.
+
+When one side of the brim is to be covered with fabric, fit this to the
+brim, baste at the headsize wire and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter
+of an inch to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the first row
+of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric under. Pin and slipstitch to
+place through the straw.
+
+
+BOTH SIDES OF BRIM COVERED WITH BRAID--
+
+Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim
+both on the top and the bottom. These edges may be brought together
+with a small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first
+bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a row of braid or gay-colored
+material. If the edge of the brim is bound, the edges of the first rows
+of braid at the top and bottom would not meet. The bound edge thus
+showing gives the effect of a cord.
+
+
+TO COVER A CROWN WITH BRAID--
+
+Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the second row off from the
+first row the same as on the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread
+(which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) and sew until
+the center of the crown tip is reached, when a hole in the top of the
+crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the
+underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat all the
+way. Sometimes it is easier to begin sewing the braid on at the very
+center of the top of the crown, or a few rows may be sewed to a small
+circle of crinoline before attaching to the top of the crown.
+
+If a braid is used which is composed of four or five smaller braids
+sewed together, the method is the same until the crown tip is reached
+or a place where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat. The braid
+must then be separated into the smaller strands and one cut off at a
+time, and each end lapped under the preceding strand; proceed with the
+remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until only one remains to
+finish the center with. When the crown tip is completed, push the
+remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to
+the inside of the crown. When using this kind of braid the operation may
+be reversed, beginning at the center of the top and covering a small
+circle of buckram with braid; press it with a warm iron to flatten it,
+then sew in place on the crown and complete the covering. This seems the
+easier method, because the top of the crown will look much better if
+pressed and this will be found hard to do unless begun on a small
+separate piece of buckram.
+
+
+TO PIECE BRAID--
+
+Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when
+careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of
+several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart
+for several inches and the strands cut in unequal lengths; also the
+strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of
+such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one
+inch. The ends cut in this way may be tucked under one at a time without
+the joining being noticeable. If the braid is very wide it may seem best
+when covering a frame to cut and join the ends of the row of braid. It
+would then be better to make a straight joining in the back.
+
+If a fancy braid is to be pieced, the ends are lapped diagonally and
+sewed flat. If a fancy joining is part of the design, a simple one is to
+lap the ends to look as though woven. This may be employed on a crown or
+brim or both, and it then becomes a part of the design. Also the top of
+the crown or any part of the hat may have a woven covering of braid, but
+any such fancy method requires an additional amount of braid.
+
+The top of the crown may be covered by laying the braid on straight from
+front to back, allowing the ends to extend down on the side crown an
+inch or more. The braid of the side crown should cover these ends. The
+brim of a narrow hat is often covered with short lengths of braid
+radiating from the headsize wire, the ends extending up on the crown
+one inch. A fabric is often combined with braid for the sake of design,
+or if there is an insufficient quantity of braid.
+
+
+CROWN TOP OF BRAID, SIDE CROWN OF FABRIC--
+
+SIDE CROWN OF BRAID AND TOP OF FABRIC--
+
+BAND OF MATERIAL, PLAIN OR CORDED, SET IN SIDE CROWN--
+
+BRIM AND CROWN MADE FROM SMALL PIECES OF SILK AND BRAID--
+
+A very soft-looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire
+foundation which has been made for the purpose. The braid may be pinned
+on the brim of wire and sewed, being careful not to attach the braid to
+the frame; slip the needle over the wire and finish sewing the braid
+while it is still pinned to the brim, then remove, press slightly, and
+sew a facing of braid to the under side of the brim if desired. Some
+kinds of braid may be dampened before pressing, but it is safer to
+experiment first with a small piece, for some braid is ruined by
+pressing.
+
+A soft crown of braid should be fitted over a wire crown and sewed in
+the same way. After removing it from the wire frame, it can be slightly
+pressed by holding it over a thick cloth held in the hand and pressing a
+warm iron to the outside. A soft hat of braid can more easily be made by
+first making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid to it. Horsehair
+braid crowns are beautiful when shaped over a wire foundation. They may
+be pressed slightly (after being removed from the wire crown over which
+they have been shaped) when they will be found to keep their shape. The
+brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out in shape and the braid
+should be caught down to the wire as it is being sewed. A small lace
+wire should be used for this foundation, four spokes together with the
+headsize wire and edge wire being sufficient. The wire should be wound
+with maline or have a facing of maline. Horsehair braid is transparent.
+There are many fanciful ways of using braid on a hat, but these can be
+readily copied if the foregoing methods have been mastered. Be very
+careful about pressing braids or adding moisture as it ruins some
+braids, while others must be moistened before they can be handled in
+sewing to a hat frame.
+
+
+COVERING WIRE FRAMES WITH MALINE, NET OR GEORGETTE--
+
+Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material, such as maline,
+net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a
+part of the design, and the wire should be silk covered.
+
+If maline is used, it should be pleated or gathered on, unless the brim
+is of the halo style, for which directions are given elsewhere. Four or
+five thicknesses of maline are necessary. The material is often gathered
+in small quarter-inch tucks at the points where the tuck may be sewed to
+the circle wire on the brim or the crown. A small tuck at the edge wire
+would make a softer looking edge than if put on plain. The fullness is
+then gathered in and sewed to the headsize wire. If the edge is left
+plain, a few rows of lacey-looking braid may be sewed on the edge. A
+wide tuck hanging down from the edge is sometimes used and it is very
+becoming to certain types of faces. The wires of a frame are often first
+wound with narrow bias pieces of net or maline. The edges are turned in
+and the material wrapped on smoothly and evenly. Sometimes the wires are
+wound with a contrasting color.
+
+An effective covering for any frame may be made from ribbon or bias
+strips of satin or silk, velvet or georgette, or any soft fabric. If a
+wire frame is used, it must first be covered with a thin plain material
+to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon or strips of material may
+be sewed, or a frame of neteen or crinoline may be used if a very soft
+hat is desired.
+
+
+RIBBON COVERING--
+
+If a ribbon is used, it must be gathered on one edge so that it may be
+drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid on the same as braid. An
+inch-wide ribbon is easily handled.
+
+
+BIAS FABRIC--
+
+If bias strips of silk or satin are used, the material should be cut in
+strips two and one-half inches wide, on a true bias, and joined in one
+long strip. Fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges
+together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge. This
+is sewed to the frame the same as braid, the folded edge overlapping the
+raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it as it is pinned and sewed
+in place. This is an excellent way to use up old material.
+
+
+
+HAT LININGS
+
+A hat lining should receive the same careful consideration and
+workmanship as the outside of the hat. From the milliner's point of view
+it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A
+well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk, enhances the
+value of a hat. Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the
+lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil.
+
+There are three popular kinds of linings--
+
+  Plain lining
+  French lining
+  Tailored lining
+
+
+PLAIN LINING--
+
+This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the
+headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as
+the crown height plus two and one-half inches.
+
+[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS
+SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP
+TO FIT CROWN]
+
+Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the back of the hat; fold
+the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside
+of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the
+hat is on the head. Pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the
+two ends together; then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in
+place. The method is to bring the needle from the underside of the
+lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on
+the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold
+at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from
+the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached.
+Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a
+running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow
+ribbon should be run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make the
+lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with this lining, which is
+made of a piece of silk four inches square, sewed or glued to the inside
+of the crown top. On this piece the designer's name is usually found.
+
+
+FRENCH LINING--
+
+This lining is made from an oval piece of silk which corresponds to the
+crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side
+to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the
+inside of the hat at the headsize and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over
+the wire one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the wire using
+a small running stitch. After completed, pin in place and slipstitch to
+the crown. This lining will reduce the headsize of any hat somewhat, so
+it should never be used if there is any danger of making the hat too
+small for the head.
+
+
+TAILORED LINING--
+
+This lining is rather the most popular lining used. Large firms send
+their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be
+bought ready-made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be
+easily made into one of these linings.
+
+Cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as the top of crown, baste
+a piece of silk lining over this. Pin this on top of the crown, as this
+can best be fitted on the outside and should be done before the hat is
+made. Now cut a piece of bias material long enough to reach around the
+bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all points.
+After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up one-quarter of an inch at the
+bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown. Stretch snugly because the
+inside of the crown is smaller; pin the fullness to the crown top all
+around, gather between pins, and baste in place. Stitch on the machine.
+This seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover the seam.
+
+Linings may be made of taffeta, china silk, satin, sateen or of almost
+any material which is not too heavy. When a wire frame is covered with
+thin material and the frame shows through, the hat should have a thin
+lining. If the hat is covered with maline, use a maline lining; if with
+georgette, a georgette lining should be used.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+TRIMMINGS
+
+
+MILLINER'S FOLD--
+
+Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a
+bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This
+must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof
+threads parallel. Any other bias is called a garment bias. Hold the
+wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side
+toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge. The basting
+thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave
+the basting in. Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges
+meet, but do not baste. Fold again, keeping this last fold one-quarter
+of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place
+and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the edge of the fold and
+take a long stitch, then, going down through to the other side, take a
+short stitch. Come back through a little under the fold to hide the
+stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before, and
+continue in this manner. The thread should be kept loose all the way to
+permit the fold to be stretched slightly when used. The fold when
+finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it.
+
+Another separate single fold may be added to this; it is then called a
+French fold. The milliner's fold has many uses, such as finishing the
+edge of hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining of the hat
+to the brim. It is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and
+is much used in mourning millinery, when it is made of crepe.
+
+
+
+BOWS
+
+For the inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy
+many different styles of bows, using either tissue paper or cheap
+cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times.
+Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for an amateur, while for some
+students of millinery it is very easy, but any one with patience may
+become quite expert in time.
+
+Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width of the ribbon which is
+to be used. In this way the exact amount of ribbon may be determined,
+as well as the length of each loop. If a stiff, smart-looking bow is to
+be made, fold the ribbon in loops before pleating. If a soft-looking or
+puffy, "fat"-looking bow is desired, pleat the ribbon singly before
+making the loops. The soft bow is often used for children's hats. After
+the desired number of loops is made, wind a strong thread around the
+center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center
+several times until the center is filled up sufficiently to look well.
+
+
+BOWS OF MALINE--
+
+Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it
+lends itself to many uses. Hat frames are covered with maline; it is
+used to cover wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or
+worn-out flowers; for shirred brims and crowns; for pleatings; for folds
+on edges of brims to give a soft look; and for bows.
+
+A bow of maline requires wiring with a very small tie wire or lace wire.
+The wire may be caught in a fold at the edge of the loops, or the loops
+may be made double with the wire caught inside.
+
+
+WIRED RIBBON BOWS--
+
+Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired. Silk, satin,
+velvet, or any kind of ribbon can be used. The flat ribbon wire is
+sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two
+colors are rather effectively used in this way. The wire may also be
+stitched to one edge of the ribbon. This is done by turning the ribbon
+over the wire at the edge and stitching on the sewing machine. The ends
+of the wire should extend two inches beyond the ends of the loop of the
+bow. After the bow is arranged, these ends should be bent out and back,
+making loops which are sewed down to the hat. This holds the bow very
+firmly, especially if a small piece of buckram is placed inside the hat
+at the point at which the bow is to be sewed. This re-enforces the frame
+and makes it still more firm. If a bow is to be placed on top of a
+crown, a hole may be made and the ribbon which completes the middle of
+the bow may be brought up from the inside of the crown through this
+opening, over the bow, and down through this opening and fastened inside
+of the crown.
+
+A narrow ribbon of velvet is very pretty twisted over a wire and two
+perky loops and ends made. These are very pretty perched on the edge of
+a brim or among flowers on the hat.
+
+
+TRUE LOVERS' KNOT--
+
+This is not, strictly speaking, a bow, but comes under this head. The
+ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed flat as it is made. It may
+be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made of gold
+ribbon.
+
+
+TAILORED BOW--
+
+This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon which has both sides
+alike, although it may be made from any ribbon. A Knox tailored bow is
+made from gros-grained ribbon. Cut a small piece of buckram for a
+foundation to sew the ribbon on. This should be sufficiently small so
+that the ribbon will conceal it. Make two loops of equal length, letting
+the ribbon lie perfectly flat. Measurements should be very exact. Sew
+these loops firmly to the buckram; fold the ribbon back and forth to
+make these loops without cutting. Next fold two more loops, one on each
+side, one-quarter of an inch shorter and exactly on top. Sew firmly and
+cut the ribbon off at the center. Fasten two short ends to the back of
+the bow, allowing them to extend one-quarter of an inch and cut
+diagonally. Take a short length of ribbon and pleat it once through the
+center. Wrap this once around the bow and fasten at the back.
+
+This bow is much used on sailors or any tailored hat. There are many
+kinds of fancy bows brought out from season to season, but if the making
+of a few styles of standard bows is mastered, others may be easily
+copied.
+
+[Illustration: SECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON
+THE WIRE]
+
+[Illustration: RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM]
+
+[Illustration: TRUE LOVERS' KNOT]
+
+[Illustration: RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION]
+
+[Illustration: SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)]
+
+
+
+PLEATINGS
+
+A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made,
+it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its
+attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be
+made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a
+thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating
+requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a
+half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and
+one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread.
+Press slightly on the wrong side before using.
+
+
+BOX PLEATING--
+
+This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the
+right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If
+the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be _one_
+inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on
+the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center
+and the edges caught together.
+
+
+DOUBLE OR TRIPLE BOX-PLEATING--
+
+This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other.
+Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same
+number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the
+box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This
+pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after
+having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed.
+The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and
+it is then known as _rose pleating_.
+
+
+RADIATING--
+
+This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but very handsome
+ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually
+required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations
+given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other
+models and original designs can be easily made.
+
+
+FOUNDATIONS OF BUCKRAM--
+
+The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from
+buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant
+places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the
+center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may
+be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five
+yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would be placed near the
+outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The
+pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the
+pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this
+first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested
+by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the
+pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these
+points. The last or finishing row is the most difficult of all. The
+pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge
+be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is
+sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished
+without either bow or button.
+
+
+
+POMPONS
+
+Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made
+perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses
+of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the
+elongated pompon would be cut like pattern "a." Each piece is folded
+lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which
+has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are
+left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact.
+
+
+
+RIBBON ROSETTES
+
+There are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes
+several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with
+thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette is made of narrow
+ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more
+of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot
+placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness.
+
+
+ROSETTES FROM OLD PLUMES--
+
+An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from
+the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small
+portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers
+together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be
+wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing
+addition.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+HAND-MADE FLOWERS
+
+
+FLOWERS
+
+MATERIAL REQUIRED:
+
+  Tie wire, green
+  Gum tissue, brown and green
+  Cotton batting
+  Milliner's glue
+  Yellow stamens
+  Dark green tissue paper
+
+Flowers may be made from almost any fabric--satin, velvet, georgette,
+maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag
+for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials.
+Any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits. Such a
+bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers
+and fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in trimmings, but
+hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats, gowns, suits,
+and muffs. They are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A generous
+number of the best examples are given here with illustrations.
+
+To prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult, but to arrange
+them is another matter. Study the face of any blossom which you are
+making and try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning the
+petals in place before sewing them is of great value, otherwise they are
+apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed.
+
+[Illustration: A. AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE WITH DETAIL. B. RIBBON ROSE. C.
+CHERRIES WITH DETAIL. D. ORCHIDS WITH LILIES OF THE VALLEY. E. RAISINS.
+F. WIRED ROSE WITH DETAIL. G. POINSETTIA.]
+
+
+AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE--
+
+This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may have as many petals as
+desired. Each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the
+diagram (1). It is highly important that the folded edge be on a _true_
+bias. Begin the rose by cutting three petals like the illustration, with
+the bias edge one and one-half inches long. Run a gathering thread
+one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, leaving a thread one inch
+long so that the petal may be adjusted as it is pinned in place. Make a
+loop one inch long on the end of a piece of wire six inches long. Cover
+this loop with a small circle of the material like the rose. It is
+sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this circle with cotton to
+make a soft center for the rose.
+
+For an ordinary-sized rose there should be eighteen petals. The first
+three are already described as having a one and one-half-inch bias. The
+next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be correspondingly
+wider; the next five should have a two and one-half-inch bias, and the
+next five a three-inch bias. The three small petals should be arranged
+around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place before sewing. Sew
+securely. Each row, as it is arranged according to size, should be
+pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed
+effectively. Each row should be placed a little higher than the
+preceding one. See that the face of the flower looks as nearly like a
+real rose as possible, allowing the back to look as it will.
+
+With a little experience one soon becomes efficient and learns how to
+adjust the different materials. Some materials being more pliable than
+others, the shape of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the
+need. The back of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number
+of green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the
+purpose. A small green cup is also added to finish the base; these may
+be bought at ribbon counters. The bud used with this rose may be made by
+using the three smallest petals. Some green foliage must also be used
+with this rose and the stem bound with a narrow gray-green ribbon, or
+with gum tissue which should be warmed before using. The inside petals
+may be of a darker shade than the outside petals.
+
+
+RIBBON ROSE--
+
+To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon
+two inches wide. There are several different methods of making the
+center for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be made from a
+piece of the ribbon, four inches long. Fold this in half. Sew the
+selvages together along one side. Turn and fill with cotton around which
+has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame wire. A little
+rose-scented sachet powder may be sprinkled on this cotton to add
+perfume to the blossom. Gather the satin down close to the wire after
+rounding the corners at the lower edges. Two yards should make this
+center and eighteen petals. More may be added or fewer may be used. For
+the first row cut three lengths three inches long; the second row, five
+lengths three and one-half inches long; third row, five lengths four
+inches long; fourth row five lengths four and one-half inches long. Each
+petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place Fold the two
+ends together, turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and
+pin in place. Now raise the end on the back of the petal and catch the
+corners down with a few small stitches. Replace the end and gather the
+raw edges together, but do not draw up close. Prepare all of the petals
+in the same way before beginning to sew them to the center. Sometimes a
+tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each petal to make the rose look
+larger. When all the petals are finished, begin the rose by adding the
+three smallest petals first. Pin in place around the center, wrapping
+them closely around it and letting them extend about one-eighth of an
+inch above the point. Add the next row, pinning each petal in place
+before sewing. Place each succeeding row one-eighth of an inch above the
+preceding one. Watch the face of the blossom carefully and see that it
+looks as natural as possible. The back of the blossom will be covered
+when finished, either with a few old rose leaves and a rose cup, or
+points of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves. A rubber stem may be
+bought to slip over the wire on which the rose is sewed, or the wire may
+be wound with green floss, baby ribbon, green tissue paper, or gum
+tissue. If the rose is to be full blown, it would be much better to
+make the center of yellow stamens.
+
+
+WILD ROSE OF SILK--
+
+The petals for the wild rose may be cut from the same pattern as for the
+first rose given. This same pattern is used for many different
+flowers--the wild rose, apple blossom, sweet pea, and for foliage.
+
+For the wild rose use the size having the two-inch bias. Gather
+one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, draw down tight and fasten
+the thread off. This rose requires five petals, and will look more
+natural if two of the petals are of a darker shade than the other three.
+For the center wrap a piece of tie wire around several yellow rose
+stamens which may be bought at a millinery store, leaving the ends of
+wire five or six inches long. Arrange the petals flat around this center
+and sew in place. The petals should lie out flat, or nearly so. A bud
+for this rose is made by folding a petal together after having gathered
+it. The bud may be effectively finished by using two leaves of foliage,
+placing one on either side, partially covering the bud and then
+finishing with the wire or a small green rose cup. To finish with wire,
+make a loop in the center of a ten-inch piece of tie wire. To this loop
+sew the bud. Twist the wire several times for an inch below the bud,
+then turn one end of the wire back and twist it around the stem until
+the bud is reached. Wind it several times over the base of the bud, draw
+it tight and see that the wire is close together. This will make a
+finish for the bud.
+
+
+FOLIAGE--
+
+The rose foliage may be made if desired. Cut the leaves from green satin
+or velvet, or color them green with water-color if a light-colored
+material must be used. After cutting the pieces in the shape of rose
+leaves (it will require two pieces for each leaf), lay one wrong side
+up, cover with milliner's glue. Lay on the center of this a piece of tie
+wire long enough for the stem. Place another leaf on this and press
+together. When all the leaves are made after this method, arrange on a
+long stem or wire, and if wound with brown gum tissue it will look very
+natural.
+
+
+SMALL WOUND ROSE OF FABRIC--
+
+Cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch wide and four inches
+long. Fold lengthwise through the middle. Turn the raw edges in on one
+end, and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges. Draw
+the thread up to one inch and roll, beginning with the folded end, and
+sew. A piece of tie wire may be glued inside the fold before gathering,
+if desired. These little roses may be sewed on a stem or sewed to a
+shaped piece of buckram which has been covered with silk. It may be in
+the shape of a buckle or a circle and covered with these little roses in
+several colors, pink, blue, and mauve. Sewed flat against a crown or on
+a brim, they would trim a hat effectively.
+
+
+WIRED ROSE--
+
+This rose, when carefully made, is most beautiful and sells for an
+exorbitant price. To make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter
+of a yard of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of velvet
+cut on the bias. If the velvet is one or more shades darker, the result
+will be more pleasing.
+
+The rose is fashioned from petals cut like the illustration. The first
+three petals are cut from dimensions given in the illustration, two
+inches long and one and three-quarters inches wide. The next five petals
+should be one-quarter of an inch larger, and each succeeding row of five
+petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger than the preceding one.
+The last row of petals is to be made from the velvet. Cut a piece of the
+tie wire long enough to reach around the outside edge of each petal,
+plus one and one-half inches. Lay the petals down wrong side up, bend
+the wire to the shape of the petal, lay the wire close to the edge and
+turn the raw edge over the wire one-eighth of an inch and glue in place
+with milliner's glue. Place a light weight on the petals until
+thoroughly dry.
+
+Begin assembling the flower by first making a center from some of the
+scraps left from the velvet, or yellow rose stamens may be used; fold
+several small pieces into bud-like shapes of about one inch in length,
+sew strongly and fasten on a loop of the wire six inches long. Keep the
+point where all the petals are joined in as small a circumference as
+possible. Begin with the three small petals, pleat them at the bottom
+into as small a space as possible, and sew to the center with the wrong
+side to the center. After they have been arranged, the edges may be
+crinkled down somewhat. Add the remaining petals according to their
+size. The last row of velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is
+placed with the right side toward the center.
+
+
+FLAT PASTED BLOSSOM--
+
+A conventional flower which makes a beautiful trimming may be made from
+the pattern for the wired rose first given. Cut five petals (of any size
+required) from velvet, and five the same size from silk or satin. Lay
+the velvet petals wrong side up and cover with milliner's glue. Lay on
+this a piece of tie wire one-quarter of an inch from the edge, allowing
+an extension of ends of the wire at the bottom of the petal. Lay the
+silk petal on top and press firmly. When dry arrange these five petals
+around a cluster of yellow stamens, which have been fastened to a loop
+of tie wire. This blossom should lie out flat when finished. Of course
+the shape of the petals may be changed in any way desired.
+
+
+POINSETTIAS--
+
+The petals of this blossom are also pasted to a lining, the poinsettia
+making a beautiful ornament. While a bright red is extremely lovely, a
+black poinsettia is equally effective. The petals should be made of
+velvet and lined with the same color in satin. These petals being
+narrow, only need a wire through the center. After the petals have been
+prepared, they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow stamens or
+knotted baby ribbon.
+
+The foliage is made from green velvet lined with green silk. The
+accompanying illustration shows the proportion of both the petals of the
+blossom and the foliage. The stems may be wound with green or brown gum
+tissue.
+
+
+POPPIES--
+
+Poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen inches long and two and
+one-quarter inches wide. Cut two pieces five and one-half inches long.
+This leaves one piece six inches long. This will make five petals. Cut
+the ends round on the five and one-half inch pieces, and cut one end of
+the six-inch piece round. Beginning at the center, close to edge, gather
+with a small running stitch. Turn in the raw edges and draw the thread
+sufficiently to make the rounded ends curl over one inch, and fasten off
+the thread. These two long pieces make four petals. Pleat them very
+close at the center, sew together, finish the single petal the same and
+add it to the four petals. Knotted black baby ribbon or yellow stamens
+or both will make a beautiful center.
+
+
+MORNING GLORIES--
+
+Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. One quarter section of
+this will be the pattern for a morning glory. The circle may be larger
+if desired, but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used.
+These dimensions are for a small blossom made of taffeta silk or
+organdie. If made of velvet or heavy silk, the pattern should be much
+larger.
+
+Lap the straight edges one-eighth of an inch in and paste in place. This
+makes a cone. Cut a piece of tie wire six inches in length, lap one end
+over several knots of yellow baby ribbon and twist securely. Push the
+other end of wire through the cone from the inside and draw the knots
+down into the point. Make a short bend in the wire at the lower point of
+the blossom on the outside to prevent its slipping down on the wire. The
+upper edge of the cone may be rolled over a piece of tie wire and pasted
+if necessary; usually it stays in place without either sewing or
+pasting. The edge should be stretched slightly. Organdie or taffeta silk
+will stay rolled into place without the tie wire. Water color is used
+most effectively on these flowers to make the shading as true to nature
+as possible. If made of velvet they may be sewed down flat on a hat at
+the side joining, when a large stamen of twisted ribbon or chenille may
+be made to cover the joining in the cone.
+
+
+ORCHID--
+
+This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron, or
+wherever a touch of lavender is desired. It is effectively combined with
+violets, or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals are
+made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter inches wide and of the peculiar
+pinkish lavender orchid shade. There are five petals in all--each calls
+for seven inches of ribbon. If possible, three of the petals should be
+one or two shades darker than the other two.
+
+Fold a seven-inch piece of ribbon (one and one-quarter inches wide) in
+half with the right side out. Cut into shape like the illustration.
+Stitch a seam along the curved edge one-eighth of an inch from the edge.
+Twist a very small loop in one end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and
+fasten up at folded end of the ribbon. Overhand this wire along the raw
+edges, turn to the wrong side and sew the wire in with a one-eighth-inch
+seam on the wrong side. This makes a French seam. Now spread the petal
+open flat, and push it up on the wire until the petal measures six
+inches in length. Gather the raw ends and wind them tight to the wire.
+Finish the other four petals the same way.
+
+
+NO. 1 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER--
+
+This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and
+four inches in length. If possible this ribbon should be darker than the
+darkest petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the ends and hem
+them down. Gather along one edge and draw down close around the looped
+end of a piece of tie wire in which a bunch of yellow stamens have been
+fastened. The blossom should be arranged with the three darker petals
+pointing up at the back of the center and the other two at the front
+drooping.
+
+
+NO. 2 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER--
+
+This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half
+inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with
+the satin side out. At one end sew straight across, making a seam
+one-eighth of an inch deep and turn. Cut the other end like the diagram
+and sew this with the velvet side out, leaving a tiny space at the
+bottom to insert the wire. This now looks something like a "Jack in the
+Pulpit." Twist a few yellow stamens in the end of a piece of seven-inch
+tie wire and push the other end down through the little opening left at
+the lower point and draw the stamens down in as low as desired. Make a
+small, short loop in the tie wire close to the blossom to prevent its
+slipping back down on the wire.
+
+Each year there are new developments in flower making, but the
+principles are the same. If a few are mastered, there is usually very
+little difficulty experienced in copying others which may appear from
+year to year. Lovely flowers may be made from a few inches of hat braids
+which are left over or from wool and raffia, maline or colored nets.
+
+
+BLOSSOMS OF MALINE OR NET--
+
+These may be made by using the same pattern as for the American Beauty
+rose, selecting the size required. (See illustration.) Lay a strip of
+tie wire inside along the bias fold. Gather along the curved edge and
+draw down tight. This brings the two ends of the tie wire together, and
+they should be twisted lightly. Arrange four or five leaves around a
+few yellow stamens. If green tie wire is used, it is not necessary to
+wind the stems; otherwise brown gum tissue may be wound around the stem.
+From this pattern many different blossoms may be made, varying it
+slightly, such as rosebuds, sweet peas, and apple blossoms.
+
+
+SWEET PEAS--
+
+Cut four petals after the same pattern, making one about one and
+one-half inches and two one inch, then a small one for the center, or a
+few knots of baby ribbon may be used for the center. Arrange the petals
+in a natural-looking blossom.
+
+
+VIOLETS--
+
+No flower is more popular than the violet, and a cluster of handsome
+violets make a most acceptable gift at any time.
+
+Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of an inch in width is
+used. Begin by tying a knot one inch from the end, tie another one inch
+from this knot; continue until there are five or six knots one inch
+apart. In tying, try to keep the satin side of the ribbon out and make
+as round a knot as possible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the
+knot. Do not tie too tightly. A little practice is needed, but the
+blossom is easily made. Hold the first knot between the thumb and
+finger, bring the third knot up and place with it, then the fifth, and
+so on, until the knots are all placed--usually three on one side, and
+two or three on the other. Cut green tie wire six or seven inches long
+for stems. Wind an inch of the end over the ribbon between these folded
+knots and twist. Cut the ribbon off pointed, leaving one-half inch end.
+
+Two shades of ribbon may be used if desired. Sometimes a few yellow
+stamens are fastened in with the wire or a few French knots in yellow
+added at the center after the blossom is made, but neither is needed and
+add but little to the beauty of this little blossom. Shape the petals up
+around the center.
+
+The foliage for this flower can be bought, or made according to
+directions given elsewhere. A spray of almost any foliage will do. A
+small rosebud, a morning-glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of
+violets will make it doubly charming.
+
+
+DAISIES--
+
+Daisies may be made from one-quarter inch ribbon, using as many petals
+as desired. Cut the ribbon into two and one-half-inch lengths. Tie a
+knot in the center. Sew the ends to a small, round piece of buckram. If
+two rows of petals are used, the second row may be made one-quarter of
+an inch shorter. The center may be covered with ready-made daisy centers
+or a few French knots. The stem of wire is tacked to the buckram on the
+back and may be wound with green floss.
+
+
+GERANIUMS--
+
+These flowers are made of geranium-colored satin ribbon. Use the same
+method as in making violets, except that yellow stamens should always be
+added.
+
+
+
+FRUIT
+
+APPLES--
+
+The material required for making apples is cut into a circle of any size
+desired and from any material. The edge should be turned in
+one-sixteenth of an inch and gathered all around. Place this over a
+piece of cotton batting, over which a piece of wire has been twisted,
+leaving ends long enough for a stem. Add a sufficient amount of cotton
+to fill the material out well. Draw the thread tight and sew. A stitch
+may be caught through the center and pulled down, or a little tuft of
+brown embroidery thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic
+look. The apple may be tinted with water-color if desired. In that case
+the entire apple should be moistened first and then the color applied
+and allowed to dry.
+
+
+CHERRIES--
+
+These are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple--satin
+or velvet would make a charming cluster. The method used is the same as
+for the apple, except that there would be no stitch in the center. They
+should also be filled until they are hard. Use tie wire for the stems.
+
+
+PLUMS--
+
+These may be made from a piece of plum-colored material on a true bias,
+two and one-quarter inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Sew
+the ends together on the wrong side. Turn, gather one end one-eighth of
+an inch from the edge. Pull the thread up tight and sew. This makes the
+"blow" end. Turn the lower edge in one-eighth of an inch and gather.
+Fill with cotton to which a piece of tie wire has been attached and
+pull close to wire and sew. Add as much cotton as necessary to procure
+the right shape before finishing.
+
+
+RAISINS--
+
+These may be made from gathering a folded circle of plum-colored
+material one-eighth of an inch from the edge, but used without filling
+with cotton. Sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire with
+brown gum tissue. Arrange in a cluster. Always warm the tissue before
+using so that it will adhere.
+
+
+GRAPES--
+
+These are made the same as cherries, except a cluster would have several
+sizes. They are beautiful made from black velvet. A cluster of grapes to
+sew flat to hat may be made by covering different sizes of button molds
+and arranging them on a hat to look like a cluster.
+
+
+
+MOURNING MILLINERY
+
+Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of
+black crepe with a few folds of white crepe near the face. The covering
+of crepe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the
+soft appearance desired. The trimming is of milliner's folds or flat
+flowers made of the crepe.[98-1] The mourning veils used may have a
+simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. The applied hem is
+much the handsomer finish.
+
+
+APPLIED HEM ON A VEIL--
+
+For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long
+enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each
+corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a
+rectangular veil.
+
+Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running
+stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat. Measure this
+strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place where the fold must be
+mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from this fold to within
+one-quarter of an inch of the fold. Cut through both thicknesses. Sew
+these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the
+result will be a mitred corner. Each corner should be carefully planned
+and mitred before sewing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down
+toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately. Slip the
+edge of the veil between, pin carefully in place, baste and slipstitch
+the edges to the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same time. If
+this work is carefully done, the result more than repays the time spent
+upon it.
+
+The veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any
+becoming way. It may form part of the covering of the hat, and is then
+arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any
+desired length. It makes a becoming background for the face. Mourning
+millinery is not used as much as formerly, but those who desire to
+adhere to the custom will find the style little changed.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 98-1: See chapter on "Flowers."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+REMODELING AND RENOVATING
+
+
+STRAW SHAPES--
+
+BRIM--Brush well to remove all the dust. If the brim is too wide, a few
+rows of braid may be removed from the edge, and the edge refinished with
+one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color. If it seems
+necessary to use an edge wire, this last row of braid may be made to
+cover it, or a bias fold of satin, silk, velvet, or ribbon may be sewed
+over the wire.
+
+CROWN--When the crown of a straw hat is found to be too low for the
+present style, the crown may be ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of
+buckram sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed back to the
+brim. Of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram. If
+the crown is too high, a few rows of braid may be removed at the bottom
+of the crown, enough to give the desired height.
+
+
+TO PUT A STRAW HAT INTO SHAPE--
+
+If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it
+only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory
+results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A
+rounded crown can be made flat on top, and a slightly rolling brim can
+be made into a straight brim by using this method. It is a joy to take
+an old, discarded, battered straw hat and make it into a fresh-looking
+and up-to-date hat, a piece of work which any one may well be proud of.
+
+Cut from a piece of heavy cardboard the exact shape and size of which
+the crown top is to be made. Cut another the exact height of the crown
+and long enough to fit around the head, allowing the ends to just meet.
+Sew these pieces of cardboard together which will make a crown the exact
+shape you wish. Dampen the straw crown sufficiently to make it very
+pliable and pull it into shape over this cardboard crown. Turn the crown
+upside down on a flat surface and place a weight in the crown. A
+flatiron or a small stone jar will make a good weight. Bind the outside
+firmly and smoothly with a cloth, pin in place, and leave to dry. After
+it is thoroughly dry, remove the cloth, and before removing it from the
+block, cover with a coating or two of some good coloring which may be
+bought for the purpose. This can be procured in several colors, but must
+be put on with a stiff brush and rubbed in well in order to produce an
+even shade.
+
+If the brim is rolling and is to be made flat, dampen it thoroughly,
+press it down flat on a smooth surface, and cover with weights; leave
+until dry, when a few coats of coloring may be applied. If the brim is
+separate from the crown, the hat may be completely changed by slipping
+the brim down over the crown, leaving it an inch or so from the bottom
+on one side or in the back, making a bandeau which lends itself to
+trimming of flowers, ribbons, or malines. In this case the bottom of the
+crown would require a wire sewed on at the edge to keep it in shape. If
+a high luster is desired, a coating of shellac may be applied the last
+thing before trimming.
+
+
+LIGHT STRAW HATS--
+
+Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of soap and water or
+gasoline. If the hat is in need of bleaching, sulphur and water may be
+used, or a commercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to use
+according to printed directions. Two or three coatings of coloring will
+change the color. Pleasing results are sometimes obtained by using two
+different colors, one over the other. This, of course, requires
+experience and should be tried out before using on a hat.
+
+
+WHEN STRAW IS TO BE RE-SEWED--
+
+Rip carefully from the foundation; brush and press carefully. Some straw
+will not stand dampening, so try out a small piece first. Place it on a
+heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side.
+
+
+PANAMA HATS--
+
+It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to a good professional
+cleaner. A Panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of
+an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material, such as georgette or
+crepe de chine, finished off at the edge over a wire. The facing may be
+put on top of the brim if desired. The entire crown is sometimes changed
+by covering it with a figured chiffon drawn down tightly and finished at
+the bottom with a band and bow of ribbon.
+
+Another change might be made by covering the entire crown with flower
+petals sewed down flat and intermingled with green leaves. They should
+then be covered with a layer or more of maline. This is a good way to
+use up old flowers. The flowers will stand a lot of retouching with
+color when they are veiled.
+
+
+OLD BUCKRAM FRAMES--
+
+When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove
+all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of
+cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A
+break in buckram is difficult to remove; however, if new material is not
+available, much may be done with the old. Do not remove the headsize
+wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed.
+
+If the headsize wire is too large or too small, now is the time to
+change it. If the general shape of the brim is to be changed, remove the
+edge wire and trim to the required width. If it is to droop or roll,
+slash the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire and lap
+one-quarter of an inch at the edge. Slash in several places if
+necessary. Sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with
+a strip of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat.
+
+If a brim is to be made more flat or flaring, slash and add V-shaped
+pieces of buckram. If the headsize is entirely too large, this may be
+remedied by dividing the brim into halves. Remove the headsize wire and
+the edge wire, cutting through from front to back. Lap and sew; make the
+headsize wire the required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the outer
+edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The same thing may be done to
+the crown. If too large, divide into halves and lap the edges until it
+is the required size, or a piece of material may be added to make the
+crown larger. The crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base,
+or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When a
+fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old
+covering, but it can sometimes be done.
+
+
+BLOCKING OVER WIRE FRAMES--
+
+If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it may be done by blocking
+over a wire frame made for the purpose. The wire frame should have six
+sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one inch apart, shaped
+as desired. Old or new buckram, neteen, or any coarse material which has
+been heavily starched, may be used. Wet the fabric thoroughly with warm
+water.
+
+Block the crown first. Place the material over the crown and pull it
+down until all the wrinkles are removed, pin closely to the headsize
+wire all around. When dry, mark with a pencil all around close to the
+headsize wire, remove from the frame, cut on the pencil mark and sew a
+headsize wire on the edge. If there are marks of the wire to be removed,
+hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly with a hot
+iron. The brim is managed in the same way. Mark at the headsize, cut off
+at this point one-half inch inside the mark, and sew a headsize wire on
+the pencil mark. Mark at the edge wire, cut off at the pencil mark, and
+finish with edge wire.
+
+
+NEW BRIMS FOR OLD CROWNS--
+
+If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the
+wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any
+fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette--an old,
+half-worn waist will do nicely, using the back or sleeves, or any
+portions that are not too badly worn. When a heavier crown is used, the
+edge of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like the crown
+sewed at the edge, or a row of straw when the crown is of straw braid.
+
+
+FELT AND BEAVER HATS--
+
+When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. To restore the gloss, rub
+the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a
+small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To complete the process, remove
+the sandpaper and substitute a piece of velvet. Rub this on a hot iron,
+then on beeswax. Continue the operation of rubbing the hat with the nap
+until it is restored to its original freshness. The crown must be packed
+with cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do satisfactory
+work. If the brim of a felt or beaver hat needs cutting down at the
+edge, mark with a piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut. Sew on
+this line with an unthreaded sewing machine several times, and the felt
+will be cut through and the edge broken off at this point. This looks
+much better than when cut with shears or with a knife.
+
+
+RENOVATION OF HAT COVERINGS AND LININGS--
+
+To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well to remove the dust.
+With the wrong side down, hold it over the spout of a tea-kettle of
+rapidly boiling water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it
+is passed back and forth over the steam. The great force of the steam
+will raise the pile much more quickly than the method of using a damp
+cloth over a hot iron. If the velvet after steaming is found to be still
+too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain, it may be gathered a
+half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the brim, or it
+may be mirrored by ironing on the right side with a hot iron, always
+ironing lightly one way, using a sweeping motion. Do not let the iron
+rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark.
+
+
+TO FRESHEN CREPE FOR MOURNING MILLINERY--
+
+Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline
+if necessary. Crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly
+and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot
+iron passed over it without touching it, but near enough so that a
+slight amount of steam will dampen the crepe. Remove the cloth and allow
+the crepe to dry in place. Crepe becomes shabby-looking quickly if not
+given the best of care.
+
+
+CLEANING, CURLING, AND TINTING FEATHERS--
+
+To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few
+spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times
+until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air
+till dry. A very light-colored or white feather may be tinted by
+dissolving some oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing.
+
+To curl, draw the flues, a very few at a time, over a blunt knife. A
+plume is rather difficult to sew on a hat and produce the desired
+effect. The end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat, while
+the tip of the plume should not be sewed close to the hat, otherwise it
+will look stiff.
+
+
+RIBBONS--
+
+If soiled, they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap and water, using a
+brush. Do not rub or wring. Hang up to drip dry, or wind tightly around
+a bottle and leave to dry. Do not press until after twenty-four hours,
+if cleaned in gasoline. To produce extra stiffness, rinse in a weak
+solution of sugar and water. It is also very easy to change the color of
+ribbons by using any of the commercial cold dyes.
+
+
+FLOWERS--
+
+If flowers are faded, they may be touched up with water-color. If they
+are pink, rouge may be used effectively. If the edges are much frayed,
+trim them slightly with the shears. Green leaves may be dipped in hot
+paraffine to restore their gloss, or pressed with a warm iron without
+paraffine. Even very imperfect flowers may be made to look well if
+veiled with maline or georgette.
+
+
+QUILLS--
+
+Quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and
+finger on which a small amount of vaseline or oil has been placed. A
+quill may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea-kettle of
+rapidly boiling water. Place a dull knife on the underside and press the
+quill hard enough to make a sharp dent. Do this every half inch. If the
+quill is sufficiently steamed this may be accomplished easily, and the
+result is permanent.
+
+
+WINGS--
+
+Loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline
+or a hair net of the same color. Wings may be covered with a coat of
+shellac which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy look.
+
+
+LACE--
+
+Most laces may be washed in warm, soapy water. Press gently in the
+hands--do not rub. Press the water out after having rinsed the lace well
+in warm water. Shake gently and pin down smoothly on a sheet, being
+careful to stretch and pin each scallop in place. Allow it to dry. If
+necessary press slightly with a warm iron on the wrong side. Some laces
+are greatly improved by pressing.
+
+
+MALINES--
+
+Malines may be used to good advantage, even if parts are badly worn and
+faded. Place a thin, damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron.
+Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board.
+
+
+
+
+     *     *     *     *     *     *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note
+
+   The following typographical errors were corrected.
+
+     Page  Change
+      18   TO COVER SIDE CROWN changed to TO COVER SIDE CROWN--
+     108   CREPE changed to CREPE
+     110   WINGS changed to WINGS--
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS***
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