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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/19740-8.txt b/19740-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d37a49 --- /dev/null +++ b/19740-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3189 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Make Your Own Hats, by Gene Allen Martin, +Illustrated by E. E. Martin + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Make Your Own Hats + + +Author: Gene Allen Martin + + + +Release Date: November 8, 2006 [eBook #19740] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS*** + + +E-text prepared by Jason Isbell, Julia Miller, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 19740-h.htm or 19740-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740/19740-h/19740-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740/19740-h.zip) + + + + + +Transcriber's note + + Obvious printer's errors have been corrected. A list of + corrections is found at the end of the text. + + + + +MAKE YOUR OWN HATS + +by + +GENE ALLEN MARTIN + +Director of Domestic Arts Department of +the Minneapolis Y.W.C.A.; Designer, Demonstrator +and Instructor in Millinery + +Illustrated by E. E. Martin + + + + + + + +[Illustration] + + + +Boston and New York +Houghton Mifflin Company +The Riverside Press Cambridge + +Copyright, 1921, by Gene Allen Martin +All Rights Reserved +The Riverside Press +Cambridge · Massachusetts +Printed in the U.S.A. + + + + +FOREWORD + + +Hat-making is an art which may be acquired by any one possessing +patience and ordinary ability. To make a hat for the trade is not as +difficult as to make one for an individual; neither is it so high a +phase of art. + +Many rules are given for crown-height, brim-width, and color, as being +suited to different types of faces, but they are so often misleading +that it seems best to consider only a few, since the becomingness of a +hat almost invariably depends upon minor characteristics of the +individual for which there are no rules. + +A girl or woman with auburn hair may wear grays--gray-green, cream +color, salmon pink; a touch of henna with gold or orange; mulberry if +the eyes are dark. + +The woman with dark hair and blue or dark eyes may wear any color if the +skin is clear. + +One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin may find golden brown, a +pale yellow or cream color becoming--possibly a mulberry if just the +right depth. A hat with slightly drooping brim faced with some shade of +rose will add color to the cheeks. No reds should be worn unless the +skin is clear. No shade of purple or heliotrope should be worn by any +one having blue eyes--it seems to make the blue paler. + +Any one having auburn hair, blue eyes, and a clear skin may wear browns, +grays, greens, tan, blue, and black. Black should not be worn next the +face unless the skin is brilliant. It is, however, very becoming to +blondes, and to women whose hair has become quite white. + +A black hat is almost a necessity in every woman's wardrobe, and it may +always be made becoming by using a facing of some color which is +especially becoming to the wearer--black and white is always a smart +combination, but very difficult to handle. + +In regard to lines--it is known that a hat with a drooping brim takes +from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having +round shoulders or a short neck. A hat turned up at the back would be +much better. A narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer. A +woman with a short, turned-up nose should avoid a hat turned up too +sharply from the face. Short people should avoid very wide brims. For +the possessor of a very full, round face the high crown and narrow brim, +or a brim which turns up sharply against the crown on one side, or all +around, should prove becoming. A tall, slender woman would do well to +wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keeping with her height. +There is one style of hat which seems to be, with various modifications, +universally becoming, and that is the bicorne, a form of the Napoleon +style of hat. + +After all, experience is the best teacher. Whenever a hat is found to be +especially becoming, one would do well to find out just why it is so and +make a note of the color, size, and general outline. These notes are of +value if kept for future reference, whether hats are to be made for the +shop or for home millinery. + +A hat is seldom becoming all the way around, but the aim should be to +make it so. Over-ornamentation should be guarded against, also too close +harmony in color until much experience has been gained. A rule by which +to judge of the becomingness of a hat and to which there is no exception +is this--the hat must enhance your looks. If you do not look more +pleasing with it on than with it off, it is not as good a model for you +as it might be. + +In planning or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors +and outlines which are an outward expression of ourselves. A hat, as +well as any article of clothing, may express many things--dejection, +happiness, decision, indecision, gayety, dignity, graciousness, a +trained or an untrained mind, forethought, refinement, generosity, +cruelty, or recklessness. How often we hear some one say, "That hat +looks just like Mrs. Blank!" Clothing of any kind is an index to the +personality of the wearer. A friend once said in my presence to a +saleswoman who was trying to sell her a hat, "But I do not _feel_ like +that hat!" The saleswoman replied, "That's just it--you refuse to buy it +because you do not _feel_ like it, while I tell you that it is most +becoming." All of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most +remote idea of what was meant, and had a total lack of understanding. + +Clothes _should_ be a matter of "feeling," and this same feeling is +something vital and should be catered to if our garments are to help +set our spirits free. Why should we wear anything which is misleading in +regard to ourselves? Let us look in the mirror each day and ask +ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are. + +It is important in planning a hat to see it in broad daylight as well as +under artificial light. It should also be tried on in a good light while +_standing_ before a mirror, as a hat which may seem becoming while +sitting may not be so while standing, with the whole figure taken into +consideration. + +To make one's own hats, using up old materials, stimulates originality +and gives opportunity for expression. It is amazing to see how many new +ideas are born when we start out to do something which we have thought +quite impossible. It all helps to give added zest to life. Making one's +own hats appeals to the constructive instinct of every woman aside from +the matter of thrift, which should always be taken into consideration. +Some one will say, "I would not wear any hat I might make." How often +have we worn unbecoming hats, poor in workmanship, besides paying some +one handsomely for the privilege. Let us try to form some standard by +which to judge of the worth of a hat instead of the maker's name. + +Before making a hat, the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over +to see with what the hat must be worn, and the kind of service we are +going to expect from it. Every article of a costume should be related +and harmonious as to color, outline, and suitability. The result should +be a perfect whole without a single discord. How often we see a green +skirt, mustard-colored coat, and a bright blue hat--each article +pleasing by itself, but atrocious when worn collectively. Bright, gay +little hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon tire of one if it +must be worn daily. + +Time and our best thought are well spent in planning our apparel. The +proper clothing gives us confidence and self-respect, and the respect of +others. To be well dressed is to be free from the thought of clothes. We +judge and are judged by the clothes we wear--they are an outward +expression of ourselves, and speak for us, while we must remain silent. + +"Simplicity is the keynote of beauty"--no one article of clothing should +stand out too conspicuously, unless it _is_ the hat. Nature uses bright +colors sparingly. If you look at a plant, you find it dark near the +ground, growing lighter near the top with its green leaves, and then the +blossom; the glory is at the _top_. Everything in nature teaches us to +_look up_. So the hat should be the crowning glory of a costume, the +center of interest, and should receive the most careful attention as to +becomingness, suitability, and workmanship. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + I. EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS 1 + + II. COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET 15 + + III. FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE 31 + + IV. WIRE FRAMES 35 + + V. ROUND CROWN OF WIRE 44 + + VI. HAT COVERINGS 54 + + VII. TRIMMINGS 68 + + VIII. HAND-MADE FLOWERS 78 + + IX. REMODELING AND RENOVATING 100 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN + PLACE 4 + + SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM 16 + + SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO SEW IN + PLACE 16 + + VARIOUS PROCESSES 36 + + FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID 44 + + ROLLING WIRE BRIM 44 + + ROUND CROWN OF WIRE 44 + + ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN PLACE 54 + + SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN 64 + + RIBBON TRIMMINGS 72 + + HAND-MADE FLOWERS 78 + + + + +MAKE YOUR OWN HAT + + +CHAPTER I + +EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS + + +EQUIPMENT + + Thimble + Thread + Needles + Tape-measure + Pins + Tailor's chalk or pencil + Milliner's pliers or wire cutters + Scissors, large and small + Paper for patterns + +_Thimble_--good quality + +_Thread_--Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Colored thread as +needed. + +_Needles_--assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 to 10. + +_Tape-measure_--of good quality sateen. + +_Tailor's chalk_--white and dark blue. + +_Milliner's pliers_--pliers which fit the hand, not too heavy, with +blunt points, and sharp enough to cut a thread. + + +MATERIALS USED TO MAKE HAT FRAMES + +_Fabrics_-- + + Buckram + Crinoline + Cape net + Neteen or Fly net + Willow plate + +_Wires_-- + + Cable + Frame or brace wire + Lace + Tie + Ribbon + Sprung + +_Paper for patterns_-- + + Heavy manila + + +BUCKRAM-- + +Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff +material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more +commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a +summer buckram, lighter in weight and smooth on both sides. + + +CRINOLINE-- + +Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff, thin, +open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire +frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the +fabric frame. + + +NETEEN OR FLY NET-- + +A stiff open-meshed material--comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard +wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and +lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being +much softer than when made with buckram. Very durable. + + +CAPE NET-- + +A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft +frames. Not as pliable as neteen. + + +WILLOW PLATE-- + +A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very +expensive, used in blocking; frames are also made from it without +blocking. + +Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs. + + +WIRE comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and is covered with +cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. It may be procured in single and +double bolts. + + +CABLE-- + +Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as +edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame +wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame +design, if it is to be covered with sheer material. + + +FRAME OR BRACE WIRE-- + +Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric +hat frames. + + +LACE-- + +Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and +sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is +desired. + +[Illustration: SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES +BASTED IN PLACE] + + +TIE-- + +Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on spools. Is used +to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black, +white, and green. + + +RIBBON-- + +A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire +woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire +ribbons. + + +SPRUNG-- + +An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on +edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or +if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge +wire on wire frames. + + + +HAT FRAMES OF FABRIC + +Much care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame +of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made +no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step +of the way. The frame is the first step, and so the most important. + +The simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square +crown, covered with velvet. Such a model we will take up at first. + + +SAILOR HAT FRAME-- + +For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim, +three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of +crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and +one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inches. + + +PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and +one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded +into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased. + +A round brim will not be of equal width all around from headsize wire, +because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head. The front and +back will both be about an inch narrower than the sides. + + +HEADSIZE WIRE-- + +TO MEASURE--This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this +measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation +wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat +is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the +ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which +goes up into the headsize.[7-1] + +As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame +wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just +mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire.[7-2] +Wire always laps one inch--no more, no less. + +TO SHAPE--With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated +to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part +of the head. + +TO LOCATE HEADSIZE ON PATTERN--Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on +pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front +of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark +all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper +one-half inch inside this mark. + +TO CUT BUCKRAM BRIM--Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut +the edges very smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of +center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press +the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp +bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily +repaired. + +TO SEW HEADSIZE WIRE TO BRIM--First note the relation of headsize wire +to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half +inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance +of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire, +the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on +each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on +smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each +side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring +needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take +stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right +side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back +to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten +thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in +order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram +inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes +small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be +tried on and changes made if necessary. + + +EDGE WIRE-- + +This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge +of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim +as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire +to conform to shape of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to +hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward +you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as +possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting +stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the +depth of the wire. If too shallow, the wire will slip off over the edge, +or, if too deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it +unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking. A frame must +be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when +finished. + +TO COVER EDGE WIRE--All edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a +cheap muslin. Cut a strip of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of +an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the strip. Bind the edge +wire with it, holding it very tight. Sew close to wire using a stab +stitch. + + +RIGHT SIDE--WRONG SIDE-- + +This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a +short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch +at finish, but do not turn ends under. + + +SQUARE CROWN-- + +A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded, +with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type +three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and +one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made +separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire +on the brim at the base. To eliminate any slashes or seams in the side +crown, a paper pattern should be made. Following paragraphs explain how +this is done. + +PATTERN FOR SLANTING SIDE CROWN-- + +Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and +one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper +in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of +bottom, then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch, or +about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap +ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on +brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to +see if any alterations are necessary. It can be decided at this point +and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight. An +amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and +curves that are becoming. Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top +and bottom any irregularities on the edge. + + +TO CUT SIDE CROWN FROM BUCKRAM-- + +Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay +pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to +take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends +one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine back stitch close to each edge; this +makes two rows of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom +of side crown, keeping all joining at back. Use same method as in sewing +edge wire on brim. Cover both wires with crinoline. + + +CROWN TIPS-- + +The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of +buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given. + +SOFT CROWN TIP--First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim, +which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the +crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a very +little, and sew with stab stitch close under wire. Cut surplus material +off to one-fourth inch. + +STIFF CROWN TIP, MADE OF BUCKRAM--Lay top of side crown on smooth side +of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half inch +outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip, +it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the +pencil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch apart. Cut them +close to the line drawn. Pin this piece on top of crown, press flaps +down and sew on with stab stitch. + + +CROWNS-- + +If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent +separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is +purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill +has been acquired by the student of millinery, a round crown of fabric +may be blocked by hand over a wire crown. + + +TO COVER ROUND CROWN-- + +Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight +of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch +below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this +stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of material, using same method +and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew +the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this +bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom +of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in +finishing edge of facing on brim.[13-1] This makes a neat finish for a +hat which will demand little trimming. If the amateur finds it too +difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, the edge may +be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon; the top may also +be finished by a narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire should +be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 7-1: To cut wire see chapter IV.] + +[Footnote 7-2: To tie wire see chapter IV.] + +[Footnote 13-1: See chapter II.] + + + + +CHAPTER II + +COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET + + +Material required one and one-half yards milliner's velvet or any velvet +eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. If velvet used is thirty-six inches +wide, one yard will be sufficient. + + +TO COVER BRIM-- + +Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side (smooth side). +Edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet +over edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right angles to brim to +avoid marring the velvet. Pin closely all around edge of brim, pulling +material with the thread to remove any fullness. Do not pull tight +enough to bend the brim. Trim velvet off one-fourth inch to turn under +brim. Baste close to headsize wire on top with stab stitch. Cut velvet +out inside of headsize wire, leaving a half inch to slash and turn up +with the buckram. + + +TO SEW VELVET EDGE TO BRIM-- + +This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side, +being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It +is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in +from the edge about one-fourth inch with the sewing machine, using a +long stitch. This stitching may then be used to put the needle through +when sewing the velvet down. If the velvet seems thick and heavy-looking +on under side after sewing, it may be pressed down with a hot iron. If +done quickly and lightly, it will not show on the right side. + +[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM] + + +TO FACE UNDER SIDE OF BRIM-- + +Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of +brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around +edge, leaving a little _less_ than one-fourth inch to turn under. +Facings are usually finished at the edge with a wire. Cut a piece of +frame wire the exact circumference of the brim, plus one inch for lap. +Bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of velvet, beginning at the +center back. Roll velvet over wire and bring out to edge. Pin in place +all the way around before beginning to sew. Place pins in at right +angles to brim. A piece of velvet held in the left hand will prevent +finger marks from showing on the velvet. Begin to sew at left of wire +joining, while holding underside of brim towards you. Bring needle +through from back close under wire. With the head of the needle press +velvet along under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the thread +of the next stitch. Take nearly a half-inch stitch by placing needle +close under the wire and coming through between the wire and the upper +facing. Come back under the wire with a very small back stitch, being +careful to adjust the wire as you sew, and to catch a little of the +upper covering with each back stitch. When wire joining is reached, +treat the lapped ends as one wire. Fasten ends securely by taking +several small back stitches. Lace wire, being smaller than frame wire, +is sometimes used to finish the edge of facing. It does not look as +heavy, but is somewhat more difficult for a beginner to handle. + +[Illustration: SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO +SEW IN PLACE] + + +TO COVER CROWN TOP-- + +To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front, same +shape as top of crown plus one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch +from edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in place, and sew +with stab stitch over line of gathering. Make the edge lie as flat as +possible and do not draw velvet too tight across the top. + + +TO COVER SIDE CROWN-- + +Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than +height of crown. Pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find +length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of +material with warp thread. (Warp thread is parallel with selvage.) +Remove velvet and stitch seam. Open it and press by drawing it over the +edge of a hot iron. + + +TO SEW CROWN ON BRIM-- + +The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before +adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of +crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim +and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wire. Stretch the velvet strip for +side crown on the crown, placing seam at back, unless trimming has been +planned which will cover the seam better if it is placed at some other +point. Turn top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown, and press +bottom fold down close to brim. If this band has been fitted tight +enough, it will not be found necessary to sew it. + + +EDGE OF BRIM FACING, WHEN FINISHED WITHOUT WIRE-- + +A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath +without a wire, the edges being slipstitched together. In this case, the +underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place +all the way around before beginning to sew. Bring the needle through +from underside of facing to the very edge of fold. Place point of needle +directly opposite this stitch and take a small stitch in upper facing, +then take a small stitch in underfacing. Each stitch always begins just +opposite the ending of preceding stitch, so that the thread between the +two facings crosses the seam at right angles to edge of brim. This +method makes the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out of +place; however, this style of finishing an edge is not popular and +requires much practice. + + +TO COVER NARROW BRIM SAILOR WITHOUT AN EDGE SEAM-- + +This method can be used satisfactorily only when the brim is narrow, +and the fabric pliable. For convenience we will give measurements as for +a two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge measuring forty +inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet forty inches long and seven inches +wide. Fold this velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins every +three inches through edge of fold at right angles to edge and close to +edge. This is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the +brim. If the velvet is not placed evenly, there will be found a greater +amount of fullness on one side than on the other. Place velvet over the +brim and pin on edge at points marked by pins. Stretch as tight as +possible. On a brim of this width all of the fullness should be worked +out. If this is found to be very difficult, lay the brim aside, with the +velvet pinned on, for an hour or for overnight, and the velvet will be +found to give a little more. Remove as much of the length as possible. +Locate seam, remove from frame, sew seam, and replace as before. Sew on +top close to headsize wire, working out all the fullness possible; pull +under part up into headsize. Sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire +onto the flaps, being careful not to pull the thread too tight or the +headsize wire will be reduced in size. + + +FACINGS-- + +A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing +on a black hat. The entire facing may be of a contrasting color or +extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the +brim. In this case there could be a strip of material the same as upper +facing an inch and a half wide finished at the edge of the brim with a +wire. Then the colored facing would be finished over the edge of this +with another wire. + + +BRIMS COVERED WITH TWO KINDS OF FABRIC-- + +A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics, +which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of +old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the +same time have much charm. For instance, the edge of the hat could have +a bias band of satin, two or more inches wide, stretched around the edge +of the brim, with the rest of the brim covered with velvet overlapping +the satin and finished with a wire both on top and bottom, or only on +one side. Underside of brim may be finished the same way, or the facing +may be brought out even with the edge and finished with a wire. + + +SHAPED BRIM FOUNDATION-- + +The simplest _shaped_ brim is the mushroom style. + + +TO MAKE PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure +the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the +head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim +droop, slash the pattern from the edge to the headsize wire in four +different places equally distant. Lap these slashes one-fourth inch at +the edge, and pin. The pattern may also be slashed in eight or more +different places if desired, the slashes being adjusted by lapping more +or less according to the amount of droop which may be becoming. + +After the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark with a pencil all +around just inside the headsize wire. Remove the wire and cut the paper +on this line. Cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat on smooth side +of buckram, leaving pins in slashes. Cut close to outside edge and allow +one-fourth inch for the lap at ends. Mark on buckram with pencil close +to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside this mark. Lap ends +one-fourth inch and backstitch closely at each edge of flap. Sew a +strip of crinoline flat over seam to smooth it up. Sew headsize wire on +place marked, which will be one-half inch from inside edge. Keep all +joinings at back. Slash buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every +half inch. Wire edge of brim and cover wire with crinoline--same method +as used on sailor brim. + + +TO COVER A MUSHROOM-SHAPED BRIM-- + +If not very drooping, it may be covered without making a seam in the +material. To do this, begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top +at the front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, always +pulling with the thread of the material, and pin closely at edge, with +pins at right angles to the brim. If covered with georgette, satin or +silk, which is pliable, the fullness may all be worked out without a +seam. Baste close to headsize wire and finish edge by following same +method as used in finishing sailor brim. Also follow same method with +facing. If the material used is not pliable, or if the brim is too +drooping to admit of stretching the material smoothly, a seam must be +made at the back. The method would be the same as used in covering the +rolled brim. + + +SHEER MATERIALS-- + +In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, it is advisable to line +with some other material first. The color could be made deeper by using +a lining of the same color, or made paler by lining with white. The +lining should be fitted and sewed on with the outside material. + + +PATTERN FOR HAT WITH ROLLED OR CLOSE-FITTING BRIM-- + +The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The +headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on. +The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge, +the slashes lapped over and pinned. If the hat is to be rolled more +closely on one side than on the other, the greater number of slashes +must be placed there. In this way the pattern can be adjusted to any +desired shape. It is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern +through in the back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay out flat on +another piece of paper for a new pattern. This eliminates some of the +slashes and makes further experiments easier. Pattern-making is very +important, and it is of extreme value to make as many patterns as +possible before cutting the foundation fabric. Changing a pattern the +slightest sometimes makes a great deal of difference in its +becomingness. Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or two +in the buckram, or by inserting a V shape to give more flare, but the +fewer seams the better for the hat frame. A rolled or close-fitting brim +is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom shape. + + +TO COVER A CLOSE-FITTING OR ROLLED BRIM-- + +Place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge. +Always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first +lesson. Draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin. Work the +material out smoothly toward the left and pin at the edge; also at the +headsize wire. Then proceed in the same way toward the right, always +pinning closely. Be _sure_ to keep the material tight and smooth both at +edge and at the headsize wire. Allow the fullness to go where it will. +The seam should be located at the center back. Cut away all superfluous +material, allowing three-eighths of an inch seam at the center back. +Turn the raw edges under away from each other at the seam and +slipstitch together neatly. + + +TO SLIPSTITCH SEAM-- + +Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle +through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along +in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the +edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the +fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly +opposite the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the material out from +inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for +something else. Examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits +perfectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the +outside; remove all pins as soon as possible. After basting this, you +will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at +the edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down +with an overcasting stitch. + + +TO GLUE VELVET TO THE BRIM-- + +When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult +to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we +resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric +thinner than velvet, or on any frame other than buckram. Care should +always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when the +velvet is to be glued on. + +After fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the seam in the back, +remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the +headsize where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the +buckram. The glue must be spread very evenly. It will make a neater job +to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further. Be very +careful to keep the glue away from the right side of the velvet. Next, +rub the glue on the frame with a stiff brush until it is smooth, then +spread the velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it with the +hands from the headsize wire out. Watch it carefully for any places +which have not sufficient glue, as the material may be raised before it +is dry and more glue added. Do not sew the edge until the glue has +dried. Usually it is only the material on the upper side of the brim +which needs gluing down. The facing may be put on as desired. Sometimes +the top of a crown has indentations, and then the velvet may be glued to +stay in place. + +The under or outer facing may be fitted to a rolled or close-fitting +brim more easily than the upper. Beginning at the front with the corner +of the material, pin at the edge and at the headsize wire. Keep the +material smooth; work from right to left, and then from left to right. +Work the material around to where the seam is to be made. Cut away all +superfluous material, allowing three-eighths of an inch for a seam. +Slipstitch together as on the top and finish the edge over wire. +Whenever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material. + + +A SHIRRED CROWN OF FABRIC-- + +There are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which +taffeta, satin, georgette, or velvet may be used. Velvet is especially +beautiful made up in this way. The first method is the preferred. Cut a +circular piece of material, having a diameter the length of the crown +from front to back, measuring over the top from the headsize wire, plus +four inches. + +On the wrong side of the material mark circles (concentric) one-half +inch apart, after first having marked a circle in the center about three +inches in diameter. Gather on the line of each circle with a fine +running stitch and bring the thread through to the right side as each +circle is completed. + +Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut a small hole at this +point. Pull thread of the smallest circle up tight. This will form a bag +which should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the +crown top and sewed securely in place. The material should be pinned +down at four equal points at the edge of the crown, the threads of the +other circles pulled up until the material fits the crown snugly. Adjust +the fullness evenly and sew in place. This is an excellent way to use up +old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects. + +The second method does not make as pleasing an effect, but may be used +when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be +cut from it. A bias strip about eight inches wide and long enough to +reach around the crown, plus three or four inches, should be joined on +the lengthwise thread of the material. The first shirring or gathering +should be one-half inch from the edge, the additional threads should be +run in evenly every half inch. The first thread near the edge should +then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the +hole in the top of the crown. This method will require a somewhat larger +opening than the first. The material is then drawn down on the outside +and pinned to the bottom of the crown; the threads are then pulled tight +and firm and are fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly and sew in +place. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE + + +Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where +the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same +allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double +to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on +another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie +parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same +size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with +fine thread, making one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for +this as a coarse thread might show through the covering. + + +TO JOIN THE SEAM IN THE BACK-- + +Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely. +This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a +strip of crinoline to smooth it up. + + +TO SEW EDGE WIRE ON NETEEN-- + +It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained, +however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge +first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken +in handling neteen to preserve the shape, as it is very easily stretched +and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same method +is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame. The +velvet, if velvet is used, can be glued on, but the material is so +porous that it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline make +excellent foundations for braid hats, as these materials are light in +weight, soft, and pliable. They are also very satisfactory for +children's hats. + + +TO MAKE A TURBAN FRAME OF NETEEN OR CRINOLINE-- + +Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height +desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement +plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which +is usually more becoming. Join the ends of bias strips on the warp +thread. + + +TO WIRE TURBAN FLARE-- + +Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to +stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two +inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom, +stretching the fabric to fit if a flare is desired. A roll may be made +by slightly fulling the fabric on to the wire, which must be smaller +than for a flare. If the side of the crown is to be curved in slightly, +this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and +the bottom, drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin the tape +and sew in place. Sew another wire high enough above the tape to make +the crown the required height. If the crown is to be flared a little at +top, sew the wire inside and stretch the material as much as desired. If +the top of the crown is to be drawn in, sew the wire on the outside, +making the crown slightly smaller at the top. If sufficient material is +allowed at the top the extra amount may be drawn up over a small circle +of wire to make the crown top, but an extra piece cut for this purpose +is more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made from an extra piece +sewed over the top after the side is finished. + + +COVERING TURBANS-- + +Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the +matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of +place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone +or in combination with fabric. Velvets, georgette, satin, and taffeta +are used. A turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a +charming hat: the lower edge invariably looks better if first bound with +a bias piece of velvet no matter what the covering may be--it seems to +give a softer look around the face. A round crown of buckram makes a +good turban frame if a bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to +the lower edge to give a little flare. A frame of this kind may be +draped with velvet, satin, georgette, or any pliable material, and when +skillfully done the effect is beautiful indeed. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +WIRE FRAMES + + +EQUIPMENT + + Brace wire or frame wire + Tie wire + Sprung wire + Pliers + + +TO OPEN COIL OF WIRE-- + +Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen +gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils +separate. + + +TO CUT WIRE-- + +Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the +point where they cut and press straight down. Be sure to cut with the +first attempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the pliers are +injured and the covering loosened at the ends of the wire which will +make it impossible to tie them together. + + +TO STRAIGHTEN WIRE-- + +Pass the wire between the thumb and finger with a sweeping motion. A +piece of cloth or paper may be held in the hand if the fingers become +tender. Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting to straighten +it, as it will be impossible to remove them. + + +TO TIE WIRE-- + +Ends of brace wire parallel. + +Right angles tied diagonally. + +Brace wire tied without use of tie wire. + +Before beginning to make a frame of wire, time will be saved and +necessary experience gained by tying a few short pieces of wire, until a +strong joint can be made. Cut fifty pieces or more of tie wire +three-quarters of an inch long. Cut two pieces of brace or frame wire +two or three inches long. Lap the ends of the heavy wire one inch, then +lap one of these pieces of tie wire around once as close to the end of +the brace wire as is possible. Hold in the left hand and with the end of +the pliers grasp the ends of the tie wire as close to the brace wire as +possible and twist tightly until the joint feels firm. Place pliers back +a little and twist several times until a little cable is formed. Cut +this off, leaving an eighth-inch end. Press this end down flat with the +jaws of the pliers. Tie the other end in the same manner. Practice this +until a satisfactory joint can be made with ease, before attempting to +make a frame of wire. + +[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE] + +[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH USE OF TIE WIRE] + +[Illustration: METHOD OF MAKING PAPER PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM] + +[Illustration: METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON DROOPING BRIM] + +[Illustration: BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT +LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS VERY GREAT] + +[Illustration: PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. +ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT] + + +TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE DIAGONALLY-- + +TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE WITHOUT THE USE OF TIE WIRE-- + +Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened, +at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches +extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the +end straight backward, close to and parallel with the other end of the +wire. The end should pass once and a half around. Use the jaws of the +pliers to press parallel wires in the twist together, and to tighten the +twist. Cut the end off close and use the pliers to press the end down +flat. + + +TO MAKE WIRE FRAME FOR HAT HAVING FLAT BRIM AND SQUARE CROWN-- + +Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a +paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of +the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more +satisfactory first to make a paper pattern. + + +PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to +fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply. +Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease. +This is to determine the position of the wire spokes in the brim. The +eight creases will correspond to the eight spokes in the brim; this is +the correct number of spokes. + + +HEADSIZE WIRE FOR WIRE FRAME-- + +A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut two just alike, +remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in +any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements +taken for this wire. Measure as for the headsize in a fabric hat, +lapping the ends one inch, and tying them. Try on these wires and shape +to fit the head. They should usually be elongated two inches. + +Pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern, placing the joining on the +back crease and the exact center front of wire on the front crease; next +pin the sides securely, being careful to keep the wire shaped to fit the +head. Allow one-half inch inside of wire and slash every half inch out +to headsize wire. The pattern may now be tried on the head for any +necessary alterations. The brim pattern may be added to or cut away. + + +WORKING MEASUREMENTS NEEDED-- + +Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire. Before +removing the wire, mark the eight different points where it crosses the +creases in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the pattern. + + +STICKS FOR BRIM-- + +Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter +of the brim plus three inches for finishing. Place one of these sticks +across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the +pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal length. Fasten to the +headsize wire with tie wire. Place the next stick from side to side, +joining on the pencil marks. The two remaining sticks when placed on the +remaining marks divide the circle into eighths. This is called the +skeleton of the brim; the wires are named _front_, _back_, _right side_, +_left side_, _right side front_, _right side back_, _left side front_, +_left side back_. The position of these ends or spokes should correspond +to the creases in the paper pattern, and the length of each one should +be determined by measuring the corresponding crease on the pattern. + + +EDGE WIRE-- + +Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the +brim plus one inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the +pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it, always +keeping the tied ends on the back crease. If these measurements are +carefully made, the brim will be exactly like the pattern. + + +TO JOIN EDGE WIRE-- + +Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke +at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around +the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut +the end off close and press the cut end flat with the pliers. Next +finish the center front spoke, then the sides and those in between. A +great deal depends upon accuracy in making an acceptable wire frame. Add +as many circles of wire between the edge wire and the headsize wire as +desired, fastening to the spokes with tie wire. Keep all wire laps at +the back on the center spoke. + + +COLLAR OF BRIM-- + +Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these +wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at +right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the +top of these wires, using the same method as for joining the edge wire. +This collar may be made very low or as high as the wires will permit. A +separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very +sheer material or sheer braid. In such a case the collar would be made +as high as possible to make a support for the crown trimming. + + +SQUARE CROWN FOR WIRE FRAME-- + +Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to +reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown +to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for +finishing. Cut and join a small circle of brace wire--about three inches +in diameter--for the crown top. Lay the four sticks across this circle +dividing it into eight equal sections as at the beginning of the brim, +and join to the sticks with tie wire. Cut a piece of brace wire one inch +smaller than the headsize wire. Lap the ends and tie this wire. Elongate +slightly. Join to the sticks outside of the small circle. Keep all +lapped ends of circles on the center back spoke. Bend spokes down _over_ +this circle, then measure down from this circle for the height of crown +and mark on spokes with pencil. Be very accurate. + + +BASE WIRE FOR CROWN-- + +Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the +headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base +wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize +wire on the brim. Place this circle, after having shaped it like the +headsize wire, on the inside of the spokes at the point marked, +beginning at the center back, and finish as any edge wire by twisting +the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire. Press the wires +down tight with the pliers. Cut the ends off close and press flat with +the jaws of the pliers. Many more circles may be added and tied on with +tie wire if desired; also more spokes may be added. This would be +desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or if used for +blocking fabric for frames. + + +TRANSPARENT HATS-- + +If a wire frame is to be covered with thin material, great care and +thought should be given to the frame, for it then forms part of the +design of the hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in this case, or a +beautiful frame may be made for thin materials by using a satin-covered +cable wire, and using as few wires as possible. It may seem advisable +after a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ROUND CROWN OF WIRE + + +A round crown is one which rounds from tip to base. First straighten, +measure, and cut four sticks of brace wire, as for square crown, of the +ordinary length, allowing for finishing. Cut and join the ends of a +short piece of brace wire five or six inches long. This makes a small +circle for the top of the crown. Begin by tying the sticks across this +circle under it, dividing it into halves, quarters, and eighths, being +careful that the divisions are made accurately and that the sticks +extend an equal length from the circle. Keep these wires _flat_ across +this circle. The sticks may now be curved down. It is sometimes found +easier to attach the base wire at this point before adding other +circles. + +[Illustration: FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID] + +[Illustration: ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS +MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED] + +[Illustration: ROUND CROWN OF WIRE] + + +BASE WIRE-- + +Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer than the wire used for +the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch. Make this the same shape as +the headsize wire and test the size by trying it on over the headsize +wire on the brim for which the crown is made. An ordinary height for a +round crown would be seven inches from tip to base wire, but to be safe, +it is always better to measure the head. Sometimes, on account of an +abundance of hair or a high coiffure, a greater height is needed. If the +base wire is elongated to fit the head, the side measurement from the +tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter than from the tip to +the front and the back. It will be most helpful to take an old crown +which has an elongated headsize and either measure it and work from the +measures or else work over it. + +The crown must be even at the bottom when finished, and when placed upon +the table must rest evenly. The base wire may be tied with tie wire on +the front and back spokes and on each side spoke until the circles +between it and the crown tip are added. It will then be found easy to +adjust it before finishing off the wires; i.e., the crown may be made +higher or lower. + + +CIRCLES OR HOOPS-- + +Add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at +the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same +size. Keep all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will +conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little +further apart at the front and back than at the sides. + + +TO FINISH THE BASE OF THE CROWN-- + +The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base +wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the +brim. + + +A SHAPED WIRE FRAME MADE IN ONE PIECE-- + +The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or +one that droops a little. Before beginning this hat it will be found +easier to have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be necessary to +make a pattern for the crown, which may be either round or square, and +for which directions have already been given. + + +PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric +shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or +fit quite close. In either case the method is the same. + +Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on to shape. Mark on the +wire at the point where the creases touch the wire. It is important not +to hurry at this point. Make many patterns and then choose the most +becoming one. After the pattern is perfected, crease it sharply the same +as in the sailor brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern and +use them in marking the wires. This brim pattern is not needed until the +crown has been made. In making a wire frame in one piece, we begin at +the top of the crown and work down. + + +CROWN-- + +Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the +width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to +finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming +frayed it is better to have a generous allowance. Begin at the crown tip +and work down until ready for the headsize wire. The last wire is or +should be of the same size as the regular headsize wire. Place the lap +of the headsize wire on the back spoke of the crown and join by twisting +the spokes once and a half around. Join the front and remaining spokes +in the same way, being careful to join where the wire was marked at the +creases on the pattern. + + +BRIM-- + +We are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern. +Mark the length of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are to be +apart should be marked on the edge wire. These measurements are taken +from the pattern. Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as +many circles between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired. + +We have now made in wire the first variation from a perfectly flat brim. +Always make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and +then measurements may be taken from the hat to be copied. Here are some +of the reasons why the pattern is important: first, it may be tried on +and this helps to decide if the style is becoming, before working it out +in wire; second, the position of the wires may be determined and marked +on the paper pattern; third, the more work done from a paper pattern the +easier it will be to copy; fourth, it trains the eye, thus making +free-hand work much easier. + + +A ROLLING BRIM-- + +Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim, the same +method is used. First, as always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to +roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other, extra wires +will be needed to fill the space. The place for these may be determined +on the paper pattern. They may go all the way around, being brought more +closely together on the low side or only part way around as in the +illustration. + +Wire frame making requires much patience and practice. It is an art just +as all millinery is an art. Lines are all important. Because of this I +urge much pattern making. Even though one may not have the fundamental +principles of art, something really good often develops and we find we +have built better than we knew. It stimulates originality, but we must +work without _fear_. + + +TO COLOR WIRE FRAMES-- + +Wires come in both black and white. A white frame may be colored to +match any sheer fabric used for its covering. It will be found to be +more simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of the cold or soap +dyes may be used. If these are not available, a piece of velveteen +soaked in alcohol and rubbed on the frame will give of its color +sufficiently to tint the wire. Crêpe paper may also be used, or +water-color paints. Rouge may be used effectively if moistened. There +are also gold and silver wires which may be used for frames when +desired, and which will add to the beauty of the design. If they cannot +be purchased, a frame of white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt, +applying it to the frame with a small brush. + + +HALO HAT BRIMS-- + +Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but to be effective the material +should be sheer. Malines, nets, georgette crêpe, or chiffon are all used +to good effect in making this style of hat. Good-looking halo brims have +been made from old georgette waists, using the back for the brim and the +front and sleeves for the crown. + +Only two wires are used in making this brim, the edge wire and the +headsize wire. The size of the brim is to be determined and then a hoop +of sprung wire cut just the length of the circumference of the brim. +This wire is uncovered; the ends just meet and are joined by the use of +a little clamp, the ends being inserted and pressed down with the jaws +of the pliers. + +Place the material from which the brim is to be made upon a flat +surface. If of maline, several thicknesses may be used. Fasten this +material down to the table slightly with pins or thumb tacks. Lay a +circle of sprung wire on the material and pin in place. Begin by pinning +the back, front, and then each side, being careful not to pull the wire +out of shape. Take the work up and pin the material closely all around +the edge. Cut off, allowing one-quarter of an inch to turn over the +wire. Sew to the wire closely with an overcasting stitch or with a +running stitch just inside of the wire. The edge may be bound with a +fold of the same material, a fold of satin or one row of braid. + + +HEADSIZE WIRE FOR HALO BRIM-- + +This headsize wire is made of frame wire. First measure, then cut, join +ends, and shape as for any hat. Lay the headsize wire on the material, +having the joining at the back. The front and the back of the brim, if +of equal width, will be somewhat narrower than the side because of the +elongated headsize wire; however, the headsize wire may be placed on +the brim in any position desired. Pin in place and sew with an +overcasting stitch. Trim the material inside the headsize wire, leaving +an extension of one-quarter of an inch to turn over; it will be found +necessary to sew this down over the wire, making the edge more secure. + +Another method of making a halo brim is accomplished by cutting a piece +of material on the bias, twice as wide as the brim and as long as the +circumference. Stretch this piece of material, then pin the center of +the strip over the edge wire, gather the raw edges to fit the headsize +wire and sew in place. This method does not make a smooth brim, but is +more quickly made. When two thicknesses of sheer material are used for +halo brims a very pretty effect is obtained by placing flat flowers, +petals of flowers, or feathers between the two materials. + + +CROWN FOR HALO BRIM-- + +This may be very sheer, although a halo brim may be used on a braid or +satin crown if desired. A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of +a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. This is sewed to the +headsize wire. The covering for the crown is usually made in the shape +of a circle about fourteen inches in diameter, with the same number of +thicknesses as the brim. Gather one-quarter of an inch from the edge, +adjust fullness and sew to the headsize wire. The height of the crown +depends upon the style of hair dressing. Place a band of the same +material as the crown, or a narrow ribbon, around the base of the crown +for trimming and to conceal the wires. A wired bow of the sheer material +may be used very effectively. (See chapter on "Bows.") + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +HAT COVERINGS + + +TO COVER WITH BRAID-- + +Great care and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw +braid. The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied, +as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames. +(See illustration.) + +The stitch used for sewing braid is always the same--a very short stitch +on the right side, and a stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong +side. The thread must not be pulled too tight, or the position of the +stitches may be seen; also always match the thread to the straw. Straw +braid may be sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline frame +except when a _very_ soft hat is desired; it may then be sewed and +shaped over a wire or buckram frame, but not on to it, as it is to be +removed from the frame after sewing; or, if the braid is coarse, it may +be sewed to a wire frame which has been previously covered with +crinoline or mull. (See illustration.) + +[Illustration: ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN +PLACE] + +Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while a fabric is used on top. +In this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitches +may be taken through the brim, which the fabric on top will cover. + + +TO PIN IN PLACE ON THE FRAME-- + +Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim, +beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the +right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back +is reached. Curve the second row gradually up from the center back; do +not make an abrupt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usually +one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a thread at the edge of most +braids which may be pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed +on a curve. The outside edge of the first row must be left free for the +edge of the fabric, which covers the other side, to be slipped under. Do +not begin sewing until the second row is basted in place. + + +TO SEW-- + +Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under +side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and +the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the +thread is not pulled too tight. Take a stitch on the wrong side from +one-quarter to one-half an inch in length, depending upon the width and +quality of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the braid until the +headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one +inch. If the brim is wider at some points than at others, the wider side +must be filled in with short strips following the same curve, being +careful that the ends are left long enough to extend up beyond the +headsize wire one inch. When the brim is very much wider at some points, +short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is +sewed; this would not make such an abrupt curve, and the general lines +of the braid would be more pleasing. + +When one side of the brim is to be covered with fabric, fit this to the +brim, baste at the headsize wire and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter +of an inch to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the first row +of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric under. Pin and slipstitch to +place through the straw. + + +BOTH SIDES OF BRIM COVERED WITH BRAID-- + +Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim +both on the top and the bottom. These edges may be brought together +with a small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first +bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a row of braid or gay-colored +material. If the edge of the brim is bound, the edges of the first rows +of braid at the top and bottom would not meet. The bound edge thus +showing gives the effect of a cord. + + +TO COVER A CROWN WITH BRAID-- + +Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the second row off from the +first row the same as on the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread +(which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) and sew until +the center of the crown tip is reached, when a hole in the top of the +crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the +underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat all the +way. Sometimes it is easier to begin sewing the braid on at the very +center of the top of the crown, or a few rows may be sewed to a small +circle of crinoline before attaching to the top of the crown. + +If a braid is used which is composed of four or five smaller braids +sewed together, the method is the same until the crown tip is reached +or a place where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat. The braid +must then be separated into the smaller strands and one cut off at a +time, and each end lapped under the preceding strand; proceed with the +remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until only one remains to +finish the center with. When the crown tip is completed, push the +remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to +the inside of the crown. When using this kind of braid the operation may +be reversed, beginning at the center of the top and covering a small +circle of buckram with braid; press it with a warm iron to flatten it, +then sew in place on the crown and complete the covering. This seems the +easier method, because the top of the crown will look much better if +pressed and this will be found hard to do unless begun on a small +separate piece of buckram. + + +TO PIECE BRAID-- + +Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when +careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of +several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart +for several inches and the strands cut in unequal lengths; also the +strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of +such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one +inch. The ends cut in this way may be tucked under one at a time without +the joining being noticeable. If the braid is very wide it may seem best +when covering a frame to cut and join the ends of the row of braid. It +would then be better to make a straight joining in the back. + +If a fancy braid is to be pieced, the ends are lapped diagonally and +sewed flat. If a fancy joining is part of the design, a simple one is to +lap the ends to look as though woven. This may be employed on a crown or +brim or both, and it then becomes a part of the design. Also the top of +the crown or any part of the hat may have a woven covering of braid, but +any such fancy method requires an additional amount of braid. + +The top of the crown may be covered by laying the braid on straight from +front to back, allowing the ends to extend down on the side crown an +inch or more. The braid of the side crown should cover these ends. The +brim of a narrow hat is often covered with short lengths of braid +radiating from the headsize wire, the ends extending up on the crown +one inch. A fabric is often combined with braid for the sake of design, +or if there is an insufficient quantity of braid. + + +CROWN TOP OF BRAID, SIDE CROWN OF FABRIC-- + +SIDE CROWN OF BRAID AND TOP OF FABRIC-- + +BAND OF MATERIAL, PLAIN OR CORDED, SET IN SIDE CROWN-- + +BRIM AND CROWN MADE FROM SMALL PIECES OF SILK AND BRAID-- + +A very soft-looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire +foundation which has been made for the purpose. The braid may be pinned +on the brim of wire and sewed, being careful not to attach the braid to +the frame; slip the needle over the wire and finish sewing the braid +while it is still pinned to the brim, then remove, press slightly, and +sew a facing of braid to the under side of the brim if desired. Some +kinds of braid may be dampened before pressing, but it is safer to +experiment first with a small piece, for some braid is ruined by +pressing. + +A soft crown of braid should be fitted over a wire crown and sewed in +the same way. After removing it from the wire frame, it can be slightly +pressed by holding it over a thick cloth held in the hand and pressing a +warm iron to the outside. A soft hat of braid can more easily be made by +first making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid to it. Horsehair +braid crowns are beautiful when shaped over a wire foundation. They may +be pressed slightly (after being removed from the wire crown over which +they have been shaped) when they will be found to keep their shape. The +brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out in shape and the braid +should be caught down to the wire as it is being sewed. A small lace +wire should be used for this foundation, four spokes together with the +headsize wire and edge wire being sufficient. The wire should be wound +with maline or have a facing of maline. Horsehair braid is transparent. +There are many fanciful ways of using braid on a hat, but these can be +readily copied if the foregoing methods have been mastered. Be very +careful about pressing braids or adding moisture as it ruins some +braids, while others must be moistened before they can be handled in +sewing to a hat frame. + + +COVERING WIRE FRAMES WITH MALINE, NET OR GEORGETTE-- + +Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material, such as maline, +net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a +part of the design, and the wire should be silk covered. + +If maline is used, it should be pleated or gathered on, unless the brim +is of the halo style, for which directions are given elsewhere. Four or +five thicknesses of maline are necessary. The material is often gathered +in small quarter-inch tucks at the points where the tuck may be sewed to +the circle wire on the brim or the crown. A small tuck at the edge wire +would make a softer looking edge than if put on plain. The fullness is +then gathered in and sewed to the headsize wire. If the edge is left +plain, a few rows of lacey-looking braid may be sewed on the edge. A +wide tuck hanging down from the edge is sometimes used and it is very +becoming to certain types of faces. The wires of a frame are often first +wound with narrow bias pieces of net or maline. The edges are turned in +and the material wrapped on smoothly and evenly. Sometimes the wires are +wound with a contrasting color. + +An effective covering for any frame may be made from ribbon or bias +strips of satin or silk, velvet or georgette, or any soft fabric. If a +wire frame is used, it must first be covered with a thin plain material +to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon or strips of material may +be sewed, or a frame of neteen or crinoline may be used if a very soft +hat is desired. + + +RIBBON COVERING-- + +If a ribbon is used, it must be gathered on one edge so that it may be +drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid on the same as braid. An +inch-wide ribbon is easily handled. + + +BIAS FABRIC-- + +If bias strips of silk or satin are used, the material should be cut in +strips two and one-half inches wide, on a true bias, and joined in one +long strip. Fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges +together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge. This +is sewed to the frame the same as braid, the folded edge overlapping the +raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it as it is pinned and sewed +in place. This is an excellent way to use up old material. + + + +HAT LININGS + +A hat lining should receive the same careful consideration and +workmanship as the outside of the hat. From the milliner's point of view +it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A +well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk, enhances the +value of a hat. Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the +lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil. + +There are three popular kinds of linings-- + + Plain lining + French lining + Tailored lining + + +PLAIN LINING-- + +This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the +headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as +the crown height plus two and one-half inches. + +[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS +SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP +TO FIT CROWN] + +Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the back of the hat; fold +the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside +of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the +hat is on the head. Pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the +two ends together; then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in +place. The method is to bring the needle from the underside of the +lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on +the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold +at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from +the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached. +Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a +running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow +ribbon should be run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make the +lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with this lining, which is +made of a piece of silk four inches square, sewed or glued to the inside +of the crown top. On this piece the designer's name is usually found. + + +FRENCH LINING-- + +This lining is made from an oval piece of silk which corresponds to the +crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side +to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the +inside of the hat at the headsize and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over +the wire one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the wire using +a small running stitch. After completed, pin in place and slipstitch to +the crown. This lining will reduce the headsize of any hat somewhat, so +it should never be used if there is any danger of making the hat too +small for the head. + + +TAILORED LINING-- + +This lining is rather the most popular lining used. Large firms send +their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be +bought ready-made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be +easily made into one of these linings. + +Cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as the top of crown, baste +a piece of silk lining over this. Pin this on top of the crown, as this +can best be fitted on the outside and should be done before the hat is +made. Now cut a piece of bias material long enough to reach around the +bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all points. +After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up one-quarter of an inch at the +bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown. Stretch snugly because the +inside of the crown is smaller; pin the fullness to the crown top all +around, gather between pins, and baste in place. Stitch on the machine. +This seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover the seam. + +Linings may be made of taffeta, china silk, satin, sateen or of almost +any material which is not too heavy. When a wire frame is covered with +thin material and the frame shows through, the hat should have a thin +lining. If the hat is covered with maline, use a maline lining; if with +georgette, a georgette lining should be used. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +TRIMMINGS + + +MILLINER'S FOLD-- + +Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a +bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This +must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof +threads parallel. Any other bias is called a garment bias. Hold the +wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side +toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge. The basting +thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave +the basting in. Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges +meet, but do not baste. Fold again, keeping this last fold one-quarter +of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place +and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the edge of the fold and +take a long stitch, then, going down through to the other side, take a +short stitch. Come back through a little under the fold to hide the +stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before, and +continue in this manner. The thread should be kept loose all the way to +permit the fold to be stretched slightly when used. The fold when +finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it. + +Another separate single fold may be added to this; it is then called a +French fold. The milliner's fold has many uses, such as finishing the +edge of hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining of the hat +to the brim. It is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and +is much used in mourning millinery, when it is made of crêpe. + + + +BOWS + +For the inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy +many different styles of bows, using either tissue paper or cheap +cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times. +Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for an amateur, while for some +students of millinery it is very easy, but any one with patience may +become quite expert in time. + +Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width of the ribbon which is +to be used. In this way the exact amount of ribbon may be determined, +as well as the length of each loop. If a stiff, smart-looking bow is to +be made, fold the ribbon in loops before pleating. If a soft-looking or +puffy, "fat"-looking bow is desired, pleat the ribbon singly before +making the loops. The soft bow is often used for children's hats. After +the desired number of loops is made, wind a strong thread around the +center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center +several times until the center is filled up sufficiently to look well. + + +BOWS OF MALINE-- + +Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it +lends itself to many uses. Hat frames are covered with maline; it is +used to cover wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or +worn-out flowers; for shirred brims and crowns; for pleatings; for folds +on edges of brims to give a soft look; and for bows. + +A bow of maline requires wiring with a very small tie wire or lace wire. +The wire may be caught in a fold at the edge of the loops, or the loops +may be made double with the wire caught inside. + + +WIRED RIBBON BOWS-- + +Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired. Silk, satin, +velvet, or any kind of ribbon can be used. The flat ribbon wire is +sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two +colors are rather effectively used in this way. The wire may also be +stitched to one edge of the ribbon. This is done by turning the ribbon +over the wire at the edge and stitching on the sewing machine. The ends +of the wire should extend two inches beyond the ends of the loop of the +bow. After the bow is arranged, these ends should be bent out and back, +making loops which are sewed down to the hat. This holds the bow very +firmly, especially if a small piece of buckram is placed inside the hat +at the point at which the bow is to be sewed. This re-enforces the frame +and makes it still more firm. If a bow is to be placed on top of a +crown, a hole may be made and the ribbon which completes the middle of +the bow may be brought up from the inside of the crown through this +opening, over the bow, and down through this opening and fastened inside +of the crown. + +A narrow ribbon of velvet is very pretty twisted over a wire and two +perky loops and ends made. These are very pretty perched on the edge of +a brim or among flowers on the hat. + + +TRUE LOVERS' KNOT-- + +This is not, strictly speaking, a bow, but comes under this head. The +ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed flat as it is made. It may +be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made of gold +ribbon. + + +TAILORED BOW-- + +This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon which has both sides +alike, although it may be made from any ribbon. A Knox tailored bow is +made from gros-grained ribbon. Cut a small piece of buckram for a +foundation to sew the ribbon on. This should be sufficiently small so +that the ribbon will conceal it. Make two loops of equal length, letting +the ribbon lie perfectly flat. Measurements should be very exact. Sew +these loops firmly to the buckram; fold the ribbon back and forth to +make these loops without cutting. Next fold two more loops, one on each +side, one-quarter of an inch shorter and exactly on top. Sew firmly and +cut the ribbon off at the center. Fasten two short ends to the back of +the bow, allowing them to extend one-quarter of an inch and cut +diagonally. Take a short length of ribbon and pleat it once through the +center. Wrap this once around the bow and fasten at the back. + +This bow is much used on sailors or any tailored hat. There are many +kinds of fancy bows brought out from season to season, but if the making +of a few styles of standard bows is mastered, others may be easily +copied. + +[Illustration: SECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON +THE WIRE] + +[Illustration: RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM] + +[Illustration: TRUE LOVERS' KNOT] + +[Illustration: RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION] + +[Illustration: SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)] + + + +PLEATINGS + +A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made, +it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its +attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be +made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a +thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating +requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a +half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and +one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread. +Press slightly on the wrong side before using. + + +BOX PLEATING-- + +This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the +right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If +the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be _one_ +inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on +the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center +and the edges caught together. + + +DOUBLE OR TRIPLE BOX-PLEATING-- + +This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other. +Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same +number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the +box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This +pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after +having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed. +The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and +it is then known as _rose pleating_. + + +RADIATING-- + +This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but very handsome +ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually +required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations +given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other +models and original designs can be easily made. + + +FOUNDATIONS OF BUCKRAM-- + +The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from +buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant +places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the +center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may +be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five +yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would be placed near the +outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The +pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the +pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this +first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested +by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the +pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these +points. The last or finishing row is the most difficult of all. The +pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge +be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is +sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished +without either bow or button. + + + +POMPONS + +Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made +perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses +of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the +elongated pompon would be cut like pattern "a." Each piece is folded +lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which +has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are +left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact. + + + +RIBBON ROSETTES + +There are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes +several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with +thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette is made of narrow +ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more +of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot +placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness. + + +ROSETTES FROM OLD PLUMES-- + +An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from +the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small +portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers +together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be +wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing +addition. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +HAND-MADE FLOWERS + + +FLOWERS + +MATERIAL REQUIRED: + + Tie wire, green + Gum tissue, brown and green + Cotton batting + Milliner's glue + Yellow stamens + Dark green tissue paper + +Flowers may be made from almost any fabric--satin, velvet, georgette, +maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag +for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials. +Any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits. Such a +bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers +and fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in trimmings, but +hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats, gowns, suits, +and muffs. They are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A generous +number of the best examples are given here with illustrations. + +To prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult, but to arrange +them is another matter. Study the face of any blossom which you are +making and try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning the +petals in place before sewing them is of great value, otherwise they are +apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed. + +[Illustration: A. AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE WITH DETAIL. B. RIBBON ROSE. C. +CHERRIES WITH DETAIL. D. ORCHIDS WITH LILIES OF THE VALLEY. E. RAISINS. +F. WIRED ROSE WITH DETAIL. G. POINSETTIA.] + + +AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE-- + +This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may have as many petals as +desired. Each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the +diagram (1). It is highly important that the folded edge be on a _true_ +bias. Begin the rose by cutting three petals like the illustration, with +the bias edge one and one-half inches long. Run a gathering thread +one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, leaving a thread one inch +long so that the petal may be adjusted as it is pinned in place. Make a +loop one inch long on the end of a piece of wire six inches long. Cover +this loop with a small circle of the material like the rose. It is +sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this circle with cotton to +make a soft center for the rose. + +For an ordinary-sized rose there should be eighteen petals. The first +three are already described as having a one and one-half-inch bias. The +next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be correspondingly +wider; the next five should have a two and one-half-inch bias, and the +next five a three-inch bias. The three small petals should be arranged +around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place before sewing. Sew +securely. Each row, as it is arranged according to size, should be +pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed +effectively. Each row should be placed a little higher than the +preceding one. See that the face of the flower looks as nearly like a +real rose as possible, allowing the back to look as it will. + +With a little experience one soon becomes efficient and learns how to +adjust the different materials. Some materials being more pliable than +others, the shape of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the +need. The back of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number +of green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the +purpose. A small green cup is also added to finish the base; these may +be bought at ribbon counters. The bud used with this rose may be made by +using the three smallest petals. Some green foliage must also be used +with this rose and the stem bound with a narrow gray-green ribbon, or +with gum tissue which should be warmed before using. The inside petals +may be of a darker shade than the outside petals. + + +RIBBON ROSE-- + +To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon +two inches wide. There are several different methods of making the +center for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be made from a +piece of the ribbon, four inches long. Fold this in half. Sew the +selvages together along one side. Turn and fill with cotton around which +has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame wire. A little +rose-scented sachet powder may be sprinkled on this cotton to add +perfume to the blossom. Gather the satin down close to the wire after +rounding the corners at the lower edges. Two yards should make this +center and eighteen petals. More may be added or fewer may be used. For +the first row cut three lengths three inches long; the second row, five +lengths three and one-half inches long; third row, five lengths four +inches long; fourth row five lengths four and one-half inches long. Each +petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place Fold the two +ends together, turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and +pin in place. Now raise the end on the back of the petal and catch the +corners down with a few small stitches. Replace the end and gather the +raw edges together, but do not draw up close. Prepare all of the petals +in the same way before beginning to sew them to the center. Sometimes a +tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each petal to make the rose look +larger. When all the petals are finished, begin the rose by adding the +three smallest petals first. Pin in place around the center, wrapping +them closely around it and letting them extend about one-eighth of an +inch above the point. Add the next row, pinning each petal in place +before sewing. Place each succeeding row one-eighth of an inch above the +preceding one. Watch the face of the blossom carefully and see that it +looks as natural as possible. The back of the blossom will be covered +when finished, either with a few old rose leaves and a rose cup, or +points of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves. A rubber stem may be +bought to slip over the wire on which the rose is sewed, or the wire may +be wound with green floss, baby ribbon, green tissue paper, or gum +tissue. If the rose is to be full blown, it would be much better to +make the center of yellow stamens. + + +WILD ROSE OF SILK-- + +The petals for the wild rose may be cut from the same pattern as for the +first rose given. This same pattern is used for many different +flowers--the wild rose, apple blossom, sweet pea, and for foliage. + +For the wild rose use the size having the two-inch bias. Gather +one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, draw down tight and fasten +the thread off. This rose requires five petals, and will look more +natural if two of the petals are of a darker shade than the other three. +For the center wrap a piece of tie wire around several yellow rose +stamens which may be bought at a millinery store, leaving the ends of +wire five or six inches long. Arrange the petals flat around this center +and sew in place. The petals should lie out flat, or nearly so. A bud +for this rose is made by folding a petal together after having gathered +it. The bud may be effectively finished by using two leaves of foliage, +placing one on either side, partially covering the bud and then +finishing with the wire or a small green rose cup. To finish with wire, +make a loop in the center of a ten-inch piece of tie wire. To this loop +sew the bud. Twist the wire several times for an inch below the bud, +then turn one end of the wire back and twist it around the stem until +the bud is reached. Wind it several times over the base of the bud, draw +it tight and see that the wire is close together. This will make a +finish for the bud. + + +FOLIAGE-- + +The rose foliage may be made if desired. Cut the leaves from green satin +or velvet, or color them green with water-color if a light-colored +material must be used. After cutting the pieces in the shape of rose +leaves (it will require two pieces for each leaf), lay one wrong side +up, cover with milliner's glue. Lay on the center of this a piece of tie +wire long enough for the stem. Place another leaf on this and press +together. When all the leaves are made after this method, arrange on a +long stem or wire, and if wound with brown gum tissue it will look very +natural. + + +SMALL WOUND ROSE OF FABRIC-- + +Cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch wide and four inches +long. Fold lengthwise through the middle. Turn the raw edges in on one +end, and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges. Draw +the thread up to one inch and roll, beginning with the folded end, and +sew. A piece of tie wire may be glued inside the fold before gathering, +if desired. These little roses may be sewed on a stem or sewed to a +shaped piece of buckram which has been covered with silk. It may be in +the shape of a buckle or a circle and covered with these little roses in +several colors, pink, blue, and mauve. Sewed flat against a crown or on +a brim, they would trim a hat effectively. + + +WIRED ROSE-- + +This rose, when carefully made, is most beautiful and sells for an +exorbitant price. To make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter +of a yard of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of velvet +cut on the bias. If the velvet is one or more shades darker, the result +will be more pleasing. + +The rose is fashioned from petals cut like the illustration. The first +three petals are cut from dimensions given in the illustration, two +inches long and one and three-quarters inches wide. The next five petals +should be one-quarter of an inch larger, and each succeeding row of five +petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger than the preceding one. +The last row of petals is to be made from the velvet. Cut a piece of the +tie wire long enough to reach around the outside edge of each petal, +plus one and one-half inches. Lay the petals down wrong side up, bend +the wire to the shape of the petal, lay the wire close to the edge and +turn the raw edge over the wire one-eighth of an inch and glue in place +with milliner's glue. Place a light weight on the petals until +thoroughly dry. + +Begin assembling the flower by first making a center from some of the +scraps left from the velvet, or yellow rose stamens may be used; fold +several small pieces into bud-like shapes of about one inch in length, +sew strongly and fasten on a loop of the wire six inches long. Keep the +point where all the petals are joined in as small a circumference as +possible. Begin with the three small petals, pleat them at the bottom +into as small a space as possible, and sew to the center with the wrong +side to the center. After they have been arranged, the edges may be +crinkled down somewhat. Add the remaining petals according to their +size. The last row of velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is +placed with the right side toward the center. + + +FLAT PASTED BLOSSOM-- + +A conventional flower which makes a beautiful trimming may be made from +the pattern for the wired rose first given. Cut five petals (of any size +required) from velvet, and five the same size from silk or satin. Lay +the velvet petals wrong side up and cover with milliner's glue. Lay on +this a piece of tie wire one-quarter of an inch from the edge, allowing +an extension of ends of the wire at the bottom of the petal. Lay the +silk petal on top and press firmly. When dry arrange these five petals +around a cluster of yellow stamens, which have been fastened to a loop +of tie wire. This blossom should lie out flat when finished. Of course +the shape of the petals may be changed in any way desired. + + +POINSETTIAS-- + +The petals of this blossom are also pasted to a lining, the poinsettia +making a beautiful ornament. While a bright red is extremely lovely, a +black poinsettia is equally effective. The petals should be made of +velvet and lined with the same color in satin. These petals being +narrow, only need a wire through the center. After the petals have been +prepared, they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow stamens or +knotted baby ribbon. + +The foliage is made from green velvet lined with green silk. The +accompanying illustration shows the proportion of both the petals of the +blossom and the foliage. The stems may be wound with green or brown gum +tissue. + + +POPPIES-- + +Poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen inches long and two and +one-quarter inches wide. Cut two pieces five and one-half inches long. +This leaves one piece six inches long. This will make five petals. Cut +the ends round on the five and one-half inch pieces, and cut one end of +the six-inch piece round. Beginning at the center, close to edge, gather +with a small running stitch. Turn in the raw edges and draw the thread +sufficiently to make the rounded ends curl over one inch, and fasten off +the thread. These two long pieces make four petals. Pleat them very +close at the center, sew together, finish the single petal the same and +add it to the four petals. Knotted black baby ribbon or yellow stamens +or both will make a beautiful center. + + +MORNING GLORIES-- + +Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. One quarter section of +this will be the pattern for a morning glory. The circle may be larger +if desired, but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used. +These dimensions are for a small blossom made of taffeta silk or +organdie. If made of velvet or heavy silk, the pattern should be much +larger. + +Lap the straight edges one-eighth of an inch in and paste in place. This +makes a cone. Cut a piece of tie wire six inches in length, lap one end +over several knots of yellow baby ribbon and twist securely. Push the +other end of wire through the cone from the inside and draw the knots +down into the point. Make a short bend in the wire at the lower point of +the blossom on the outside to prevent its slipping down on the wire. The +upper edge of the cone may be rolled over a piece of tie wire and pasted +if necessary; usually it stays in place without either sewing or +pasting. The edge should be stretched slightly. Organdie or taffeta silk +will stay rolled into place without the tie wire. Water color is used +most effectively on these flowers to make the shading as true to nature +as possible. If made of velvet they may be sewed down flat on a hat at +the side joining, when a large stamen of twisted ribbon or chenille may +be made to cover the joining in the cone. + + +ORCHID-- + +This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron, or +wherever a touch of lavender is desired. It is effectively combined with +violets, or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals are +made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter inches wide and of the peculiar +pinkish lavender orchid shade. There are five petals in all--each calls +for seven inches of ribbon. If possible, three of the petals should be +one or two shades darker than the other two. + +Fold a seven-inch piece of ribbon (one and one-quarter inches wide) in +half with the right side out. Cut into shape like the illustration. +Stitch a seam along the curved edge one-eighth of an inch from the edge. +Twist a very small loop in one end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and +fasten up at folded end of the ribbon. Overhand this wire along the raw +edges, turn to the wrong side and sew the wire in with a one-eighth-inch +seam on the wrong side. This makes a French seam. Now spread the petal +open flat, and push it up on the wire until the petal measures six +inches in length. Gather the raw ends and wind them tight to the wire. +Finish the other four petals the same way. + + +NO. 1 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER-- + +This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and +four inches in length. If possible this ribbon should be darker than the +darkest petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the ends and hem +them down. Gather along one edge and draw down close around the looped +end of a piece of tie wire in which a bunch of yellow stamens have been +fastened. The blossom should be arranged with the three darker petals +pointing up at the back of the center and the other two at the front +drooping. + + +NO. 2 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER-- + +This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half +inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with +the satin side out. At one end sew straight across, making a seam +one-eighth of an inch deep and turn. Cut the other end like the diagram +and sew this with the velvet side out, leaving a tiny space at the +bottom to insert the wire. This now looks something like a "Jack in the +Pulpit." Twist a few yellow stamens in the end of a piece of seven-inch +tie wire and push the other end down through the little opening left at +the lower point and draw the stamens down in as low as desired. Make a +small, short loop in the tie wire close to the blossom to prevent its +slipping back down on the wire. + +Each year there are new developments in flower making, but the +principles are the same. If a few are mastered, there is usually very +little difficulty experienced in copying others which may appear from +year to year. Lovely flowers may be made from a few inches of hat braids +which are left over or from wool and raffia, maline or colored nets. + + +BLOSSOMS OF MALINE OR NET-- + +These may be made by using the same pattern as for the American Beauty +rose, selecting the size required. (See illustration.) Lay a strip of +tie wire inside along the bias fold. Gather along the curved edge and +draw down tight. This brings the two ends of the tie wire together, and +they should be twisted lightly. Arrange four or five leaves around a +few yellow stamens. If green tie wire is used, it is not necessary to +wind the stems; otherwise brown gum tissue may be wound around the stem. +From this pattern many different blossoms may be made, varying it +slightly, such as rosebuds, sweet peas, and apple blossoms. + + +SWEET PEAS-- + +Cut four petals after the same pattern, making one about one and +one-half inches and two one inch, then a small one for the center, or a +few knots of baby ribbon may be used for the center. Arrange the petals +in a natural-looking blossom. + + +VIOLETS-- + +No flower is more popular than the violet, and a cluster of handsome +violets make a most acceptable gift at any time. + +Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of an inch in width is +used. Begin by tying a knot one inch from the end, tie another one inch +from this knot; continue until there are five or six knots one inch +apart. In tying, try to keep the satin side of the ribbon out and make +as round a knot as possible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the +knot. Do not tie too tightly. A little practice is needed, but the +blossom is easily made. Hold the first knot between the thumb and +finger, bring the third knot up and place with it, then the fifth, and +so on, until the knots are all placed--usually three on one side, and +two or three on the other. Cut green tie wire six or seven inches long +for stems. Wind an inch of the end over the ribbon between these folded +knots and twist. Cut the ribbon off pointed, leaving one-half inch end. + +Two shades of ribbon may be used if desired. Sometimes a few yellow +stamens are fastened in with the wire or a few French knots in yellow +added at the center after the blossom is made, but neither is needed and +add but little to the beauty of this little blossom. Shape the petals up +around the center. + +The foliage for this flower can be bought, or made according to +directions given elsewhere. A spray of almost any foliage will do. A +small rosebud, a morning-glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of +violets will make it doubly charming. + + +DAISIES-- + +Daisies may be made from one-quarter inch ribbon, using as many petals +as desired. Cut the ribbon into two and one-half-inch lengths. Tie a +knot in the center. Sew the ends to a small, round piece of buckram. If +two rows of petals are used, the second row may be made one-quarter of +an inch shorter. The center may be covered with ready-made daisy centers +or a few French knots. The stem of wire is tacked to the buckram on the +back and may be wound with green floss. + + +GERANIUMS-- + +These flowers are made of geranium-colored satin ribbon. Use the same +method as in making violets, except that yellow stamens should always be +added. + + + +FRUIT + +APPLES-- + +The material required for making apples is cut into a circle of any size +desired and from any material. The edge should be turned in +one-sixteenth of an inch and gathered all around. Place this over a +piece of cotton batting, over which a piece of wire has been twisted, +leaving ends long enough for a stem. Add a sufficient amount of cotton +to fill the material out well. Draw the thread tight and sew. A stitch +may be caught through the center and pulled down, or a little tuft of +brown embroidery thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic +look. The apple may be tinted with water-color if desired. In that case +the entire apple should be moistened first and then the color applied +and allowed to dry. + + +CHERRIES-- + +These are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple--satin +or velvet would make a charming cluster. The method used is the same as +for the apple, except that there would be no stitch in the center. They +should also be filled until they are hard. Use tie wire for the stems. + + +PLUMS-- + +These may be made from a piece of plum-colored material on a true bias, +two and one-quarter inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Sew +the ends together on the wrong side. Turn, gather one end one-eighth of +an inch from the edge. Pull the thread up tight and sew. This makes the +"blow" end. Turn the lower edge in one-eighth of an inch and gather. +Fill with cotton to which a piece of tie wire has been attached and +pull close to wire and sew. Add as much cotton as necessary to procure +the right shape before finishing. + + +RAISINS-- + +These may be made from gathering a folded circle of plum-colored +material one-eighth of an inch from the edge, but used without filling +with cotton. Sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire with +brown gum tissue. Arrange in a cluster. Always warm the tissue before +using so that it will adhere. + + +GRAPES-- + +These are made the same as cherries, except a cluster would have several +sizes. They are beautiful made from black velvet. A cluster of grapes to +sew flat to hat may be made by covering different sizes of button molds +and arranging them on a hat to look like a cluster. + + + +MOURNING MILLINERY + +Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of +black crêpe with a few folds of white crêpe near the face. The covering +of crêpe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the +soft appearance desired. The trimming is of milliner's folds or flat +flowers made of the crêpe.[98-1] The mourning veils used may have a +simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. The applied hem is +much the handsomer finish. + + +APPLIED HEM ON A VEIL-- + +For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long +enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each +corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a +rectangular veil. + +Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running +stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat. Measure this +strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place where the fold must be +mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from this fold to within +one-quarter of an inch of the fold. Cut through both thicknesses. Sew +these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the +result will be a mitred corner. Each corner should be carefully planned +and mitred before sewing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down +toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately. Slip the +edge of the veil between, pin carefully in place, baste and slipstitch +the edges to the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same time. If +this work is carefully done, the result more than repays the time spent +upon it. + +The veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any +becoming way. It may form part of the covering of the hat, and is then +arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any +desired length. It makes a becoming background for the face. Mourning +millinery is not used as much as formerly, but those who desire to +adhere to the custom will find the style little changed. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 98-1: See chapter on "Flowers."] + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +REMODELING AND RENOVATING + + +STRAW SHAPES-- + +BRIM--Brush well to remove all the dust. If the brim is too wide, a few +rows of braid may be removed from the edge, and the edge refinished with +one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color. If it seems +necessary to use an edge wire, this last row of braid may be made to +cover it, or a bias fold of satin, silk, velvet, or ribbon may be sewed +over the wire. + +CROWN--When the crown of a straw hat is found to be too low for the +present style, the crown may be ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of +buckram sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed back to the +brim. Of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram. If +the crown is too high, a few rows of braid may be removed at the bottom +of the crown, enough to give the desired height. + + +TO PUT A STRAW HAT INTO SHAPE-- + +If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it +only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory +results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A +rounded crown can be made flat on top, and a slightly rolling brim can +be made into a straight brim by using this method. It is a joy to take +an old, discarded, battered straw hat and make it into a fresh-looking +and up-to-date hat, a piece of work which any one may well be proud of. + +Cut from a piece of heavy cardboard the exact shape and size of which +the crown top is to be made. Cut another the exact height of the crown +and long enough to fit around the head, allowing the ends to just meet. +Sew these pieces of cardboard together which will make a crown the exact +shape you wish. Dampen the straw crown sufficiently to make it very +pliable and pull it into shape over this cardboard crown. Turn the crown +upside down on a flat surface and place a weight in the crown. A +flatiron or a small stone jar will make a good weight. Bind the outside +firmly and smoothly with a cloth, pin in place, and leave to dry. After +it is thoroughly dry, remove the cloth, and before removing it from the +block, cover with a coating or two of some good coloring which may be +bought for the purpose. This can be procured in several colors, but must +be put on with a stiff brush and rubbed in well in order to produce an +even shade. + +If the brim is rolling and is to be made flat, dampen it thoroughly, +press it down flat on a smooth surface, and cover with weights; leave +until dry, when a few coats of coloring may be applied. If the brim is +separate from the crown, the hat may be completely changed by slipping +the brim down over the crown, leaving it an inch or so from the bottom +on one side or in the back, making a bandeau which lends itself to +trimming of flowers, ribbons, or malines. In this case the bottom of the +crown would require a wire sewed on at the edge to keep it in shape. If +a high luster is desired, a coating of shellac may be applied the last +thing before trimming. + + +LIGHT STRAW HATS-- + +Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of soap and water or +gasoline. If the hat is in need of bleaching, sulphur and water may be +used, or a commercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to use +according to printed directions. Two or three coatings of coloring will +change the color. Pleasing results are sometimes obtained by using two +different colors, one over the other. This, of course, requires +experience and should be tried out before using on a hat. + + +WHEN STRAW IS TO BE RE-SEWED-- + +Rip carefully from the foundation; brush and press carefully. Some straw +will not stand dampening, so try out a small piece first. Place it on a +heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side. + + +PANAMA HATS-- + +It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to a good professional +cleaner. A Panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of +an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material, such as georgette or +crêpe de chine, finished off at the edge over a wire. The facing may be +put on top of the brim if desired. The entire crown is sometimes changed +by covering it with a figured chiffon drawn down tightly and finished at +the bottom with a band and bow of ribbon. + +Another change might be made by covering the entire crown with flower +petals sewed down flat and intermingled with green leaves. They should +then be covered with a layer or more of maline. This is a good way to +use up old flowers. The flowers will stand a lot of retouching with +color when they are veiled. + + +OLD BUCKRAM FRAMES-- + +When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove +all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of +cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A +break in buckram is difficult to remove; however, if new material is not +available, much may be done with the old. Do not remove the headsize +wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed. + +If the headsize wire is too large or too small, now is the time to +change it. If the general shape of the brim is to be changed, remove the +edge wire and trim to the required width. If it is to droop or roll, +slash the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire and lap +one-quarter of an inch at the edge. Slash in several places if +necessary. Sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with +a strip of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat. + +If a brim is to be made more flat or flaring, slash and add V-shaped +pieces of buckram. If the headsize is entirely too large, this may be +remedied by dividing the brim into halves. Remove the headsize wire and +the edge wire, cutting through from front to back. Lap and sew; make the +headsize wire the required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the outer +edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The same thing may be done to +the crown. If too large, divide into halves and lap the edges until it +is the required size, or a piece of material may be added to make the +crown larger. The crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base, +or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When a +fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old +covering, but it can sometimes be done. + + +BLOCKING OVER WIRE FRAMES-- + +If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it may be done by blocking +over a wire frame made for the purpose. The wire frame should have six +sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one inch apart, shaped +as desired. Old or new buckram, neteen, or any coarse material which has +been heavily starched, may be used. Wet the fabric thoroughly with warm +water. + +Block the crown first. Place the material over the crown and pull it +down until all the wrinkles are removed, pin closely to the headsize +wire all around. When dry, mark with a pencil all around close to the +headsize wire, remove from the frame, cut on the pencil mark and sew a +headsize wire on the edge. If there are marks of the wire to be removed, +hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly with a hot +iron. The brim is managed in the same way. Mark at the headsize, cut off +at this point one-half inch inside the mark, and sew a headsize wire on +the pencil mark. Mark at the edge wire, cut off at the pencil mark, and +finish with edge wire. + + +NEW BRIMS FOR OLD CROWNS-- + +If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the +wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any +fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette--an old, +half-worn waist will do nicely, using the back or sleeves, or any +portions that are not too badly worn. When a heavier crown is used, the +edge of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like the crown +sewed at the edge, or a row of straw when the crown is of straw braid. + + +FELT AND BEAVER HATS-- + +When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. To restore the gloss, rub +the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a +small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To complete the process, remove +the sandpaper and substitute a piece of velvet. Rub this on a hot iron, +then on beeswax. Continue the operation of rubbing the hat with the nap +until it is restored to its original freshness. The crown must be packed +with cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do satisfactory +work. If the brim of a felt or beaver hat needs cutting down at the +edge, mark with a piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut. Sew on +this line with an unthreaded sewing machine several times, and the felt +will be cut through and the edge broken off at this point. This looks +much better than when cut with shears or with a knife. + + +RENOVATION OF HAT COVERINGS AND LININGS-- + +To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well to remove the dust. +With the wrong side down, hold it over the spout of a tea-kettle of +rapidly boiling water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it +is passed back and forth over the steam. The great force of the steam +will raise the pile much more quickly than the method of using a damp +cloth over a hot iron. If the velvet after steaming is found to be still +too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain, it may be gathered a +half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the brim, or it +may be mirrored by ironing on the right side with a hot iron, always +ironing lightly one way, using a sweeping motion. Do not let the iron +rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark. + + +TO FRESHEN CRÊPE FOR MOURNING MILLINERY-- + +Brush the crêpe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline +if necessary. Crêpe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly +and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot +iron passed over it without touching it, but near enough so that a +slight amount of steam will dampen the crêpe. Remove the cloth and allow +the crêpe to dry in place. Crêpe becomes shabby-looking quickly if not +given the best of care. + + +CLEANING, CURLING, AND TINTING FEATHERS-- + +To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few +spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times +until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air +till dry. A very light-colored or white feather may be tinted by +dissolving some oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing. + +To curl, draw the flues, a very few at a time, over a blunt knife. A +plume is rather difficult to sew on a hat and produce the desired +effect. The end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat, while +the tip of the plume should not be sewed close to the hat, otherwise it +will look stiff. + + +RIBBONS-- + +If soiled, they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap and water, using a +brush. Do not rub or wring. Hang up to drip dry, or wind tightly around +a bottle and leave to dry. Do not press until after twenty-four hours, +if cleaned in gasoline. To produce extra stiffness, rinse in a weak +solution of sugar and water. It is also very easy to change the color of +ribbons by using any of the commercial cold dyes. + + +FLOWERS-- + +If flowers are faded, they may be touched up with water-color. If they +are pink, rouge may be used effectively. If the edges are much frayed, +trim them slightly with the shears. Green leaves may be dipped in hot +paraffine to restore their gloss, or pressed with a warm iron without +paraffine. Even very imperfect flowers may be made to look well if +veiled with maline or georgette. + + +QUILLS-- + +Quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and +finger on which a small amount of vaseline or oil has been placed. A +quill may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea-kettle of +rapidly boiling water. Place a dull knife on the underside and press the +quill hard enough to make a sharp dent. Do this every half inch. If the +quill is sufficiently steamed this may be accomplished easily, and the +result is permanent. + + +WINGS-- + +Loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline +or a hair net of the same color. Wings may be covered with a coat of +shellac which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy look. + + +LACE-- + +Most laces may be washed in warm, soapy water. Press gently in the +hands--do not rub. Press the water out after having rinsed the lace well +in warm water. Shake gently and pin down smoothly on a sheet, being +careful to stretch and pin each scallop in place. Allow it to dry. If +necessary press slightly with a warm iron on the wrong side. Some laces +are greatly improved by pressing. + + +MALINES-- + +Malines may be used to good advantage, even if parts are badly worn and +faded. Place a thin, damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron. +Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board. + + + + + * * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note + + The following typographical errors were corrected. + + Page Change + 18 TO COVER SIDE CROWN changed to TO COVER SIDE CROWN-- + 108 CREPE changed to CRÊPE + 110 WINGS changed to WINGS-- + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS*** + + +******* This file should be named 19740-8.txt or 19740-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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E. Martin</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Make Your Own Hats</p> +<p>Author: Gene Allen Martin</p> +<p>Release Date: November 8, 2006 [eBook #19740]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Jason Isbell, Julia Miller,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (http://www.pgdp.net/)</h3> +<p> </p> +<div style="background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;"> +<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber’s note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of the changes +is found at the end of the text.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: 250%;">MAKE YOUR OWN HATS</p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: 120%; margin-top: 2em;">BY<br /> +GENE ALLEN MARTIN</p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: smaller;">DIRECTOR OF DOMESTIC ARTS DEPARTMENT OF<br /> +THE MINNEAPOLIS Y.W.C.A.; DESIGNER, DEMONSTRATOR<br /> +AND INSTRUCTOR IN MILLINERY</p> + + +<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 3em;">ILLUSTRATED BY<br /> +E. E. MARTIN</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;"> +<img src="images/image01.jpg" width="100" height="117" alt="Spool with needle" title="Spool with needle" /> + +</div> + +<p class="titlepage"><span style="font-size: smaller;">BOSTON AND NEW YORK</span><br /> +HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY<br /> +<span style="font-size: smaller;">The Riverside Press Cambridge</span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span></p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: smaller;">COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY GENE ALLEN MARTIN<br /> +ALL RIGHTS RESERVED</p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 3em; font-size: smaller;">The Riverside Press<br /> +CAMBRIDGE · MASSACHUSETTS<br /> +PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="FOREWORD" id="FOREWORD"></a>FOREWORD</h2> + + + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Hat-making</span> is an art which may be acquired by any one possessing +patience and ordinary ability. To make a hat for the trade is not as +difficult as to make one for an individual; neither is it so high a +phase of art.</p> + +<p>Many rules are given for crown-height, brim-width, and color, as being +suited to different types of faces, but they are so often misleading +that it seems best to consider only a few, since the becomingness of a +hat almost invariably depends upon minor characteristics of the +individual for which there are no rules.</p> + +<p>A girl or woman with auburn hair may wear grays—gray-green, cream +color, salmon pink; a touch of henna with gold or orange; mulberry if +the eyes are dark.</p> + +<p>The woman with dark hair and blue or dark eyes may wear any color if the +skin is clear.</p> + +<p>One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin may find golden brown, a +pale yellow or cream color becoming—possibly a mulberry if just the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span>right depth. A hat with slightly drooping brim faced with some shade of +rose will add color to the cheeks. No reds should be worn unless the +skin is clear. No shade of purple or heliotrope should be worn by any +one having blue eyes—it seems to make the blue paler.</p> + +<p>Any one having auburn hair, blue eyes, and a clear skin may wear browns, +grays, greens, tan, blue, and black. Black should not be worn next the +face unless the skin is brilliant. It is, however, very becoming to +blondes, and to women whose hair has become quite white.</p> + +<p>A black hat is almost a necessity in every woman's wardrobe, and it may +always be made becoming by using a facing of some color which is +especially becoming to the wearer—black and white is always a smart +combination, but very difficult to handle.</p> + +<p>In regard to lines—it is known that a hat with a drooping brim takes +from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having +round shoulders or a short neck. A hat turned up at the back would be +much better. A narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer. A +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span>woman with a short, turned-up nose should avoid a hat turned up too +sharply from the face. Short people should avoid very wide brims. For +the possessor of a very full, round face the high crown and narrow brim, +or a brim which turns up sharply against the crown on one side, or all +around, should prove becoming. A tall, slender woman would do well to +wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keeping with her height. +There is one style of hat which seems to be, with various modifications, +universally becoming, and that is the bicorne, a form of the Napoleon +style of hat.</p> + +<p>After all, experience is the best teacher. Whenever a hat is found to be +especially becoming, one would do well to find out just why it is so and +make a note of the color, size, and general outline. These notes are of +value if kept for future reference, whether hats are to be made for the +shop or for home millinery.</p> + +<p>A hat is seldom becoming all the way around, but the aim should be to +make it so. Over-ornamentation should be guarded against, also too close +harmony in color until much experience has been gained. A rule by which +to judge of the becomingness of a hat and to which there is no exception +is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span> this—the hat must enhance your looks. If you do not look more +pleasing with it on than with it off, it is not as good a model for you +as it might be.</p> + +<p>In planning or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors +and outlines which are an outward expression of ourselves. A hat, as +well as any article of clothing, may express many things—dejection, +happiness, decision, indecision, gayety, dignity, graciousness, a +trained or an untrained mind, forethought, refinement, generosity, +cruelty, or recklessness. How often we hear some one say, “That hat +looks just like Mrs. Blank!” Clothing of any kind is an index to the +personality of the wearer. A friend once said in my presence to a +saleswoman who was trying to sell her a hat, “But I do not <i>feel</i> like +that hat!” The saleswoman replied, “That's just it—you refuse to buy it +because you do not <i>feel</i> like it, while I tell you that it is most +becoming.” All of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most +remote idea of what was meant, and had a total lack of understanding.</p> + +<p>Clothes <i>should</i> be a matter of “feeling,” and this same feeling is +something vital and should be ca<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span>tered to if our garments are to help +set our spirits free. Why should we wear anything which is misleading in +regard to ourselves? Let us look in the mirror each day and ask +ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are.</p> + +<p>It is important in planning a hat to see it in broad daylight as well as +under artificial light. It should also be tried on in a good light while +<i>standing</i> before a mirror, as a hat which may seem becoming while +sitting may not be so while standing, with the whole figure taken into +consideration.</p> + +<p>To make one's own hats, using up old materials, stimulates originality +and gives opportunity for expression. It is amazing to see how many new +ideas are born when we start out to do something which we have thought +quite impossible. It all helps to give added zest to life. Making one's +own hats appeals to the constructive instinct of every woman aside from +the matter of thrift, which should always be taken into consideration. +Some one will say, “I would not wear any hat I might make.” How often +have we worn unbecoming hats, poor in workmanship, besides paying some +one handsomely for the privilege. Let us try to form<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span> some standard by +which to judge of the worth of a hat instead of the maker's name.</p> + +<p>Before making a hat, the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over +to see with what the hat must be worn, and the kind of service we are +going to expect from it. Every article of a costume should be related +and harmonious as to color, outline, and suitability. The result should +be a perfect whole without a single discord. How often we see a green +skirt, mustard-colored coat, and a bright blue hat—each article +pleasing by itself, but atrocious when worn collectively. Bright, gay +little hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon tire of one if it +must be worn daily.</p> + +<p>Time and our best thought are well spent in planning our apparel. The +proper clothing gives us confidence and self-respect, and the respect of +others. To be well dressed is to be free from the thought of clothes. We +judge and are judged by the clothes we wear—they are an outward +expression of ourselves, and speak for us, while we must remain silent.</p> + +<p>“Simplicity is the keynote of beauty”—no one article of clothing should +stand out too conspicu<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span>ously, unless it <i>is</i> the hat. Nature uses bright +colors sparingly. If you look at a plant, you find it dark near the +ground, growing lighter near the top with its green leaves, and then the +blossom; the glory is at the <i>top</i>. Everything in nature teaches us to +<i>look up</i>. So the hat should be the crowning glory of a costume, the +center of interest, and should receive the most careful attention as to +becomingness, suitability, and workmanship.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + + +<table width="80%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="table of contents"> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">I.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">Equipment and Materials</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">II.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">Covering Frame with Velvet</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">15</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">III.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Frames of Neteen and Crinoline</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">31</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">IV.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Wire Frames</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">35</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">V.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><span class="smcap">Round Crown of Wire</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">44</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">VI.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><span class="smcap">Hat Coverings</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">54</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">VII.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><span class="smcap">Trimmings</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">68</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">VIII.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">Hand-Made Flowers</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">78</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">IX.</td> + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Remodeling and Renovating</span></a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">100</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + +<table width="80%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations"> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Showing Shaped Brim of Neteen with Ribbon-Wire +Braces basted in Place</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image02">4</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Showing Method of fitting Fabric to Shaped Brim</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image03">16</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Showing Under Facing of Brim pinned over Wire +ready to sew in Place</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image04">16</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Various Processes</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image05">36</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Fancy Crown-Tip of Braid</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image11">44</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Rolling Wire Brim</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image12">44</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Round Crown of Wire</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image13">44</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">One Method of starting the Braid on Crown and sewing in Place</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image14">54</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Showing Method of covering Crown with Two-Inch Wide Bias Satin</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image15">64</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Ribbon Trimmings</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image16">72</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Hand-Made Flowers</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image21">78</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>MAKE YOUR OWN HAT</h2> + +<p class="titlepage"><sup>*</sup><sub>*</sub><sup>*</sup></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">CHAPTER I</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS</h2> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Equipment</span></p> + +<ul class="lists"> + <li>Thimble</li> + <li>Thread</li> + <li>Needles</li> + <li>Tape-measure</li> + <li>Pins</li> + <li>Tailor's chalk or pencil</li> + <li>Milliner's pliers or wire cutters</li> + <li>Scissors, large and small</li> + <li>Paper for patterns</li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Thimble</i>—good quality</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Thread</i>—Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Colored thread as +needed.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Needles</i>—assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 to 10.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Tape-measure</i>—of good quality sateen.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Tailor's chalk</i>—white and dark blue.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Milliner's pliers</i>—pliers which fit the hand, not too heavy, with +blunt points, and sharp enough to cut a thread.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Materials used to make Hat Frames</span></p> + +<dl> + <dt><i>Fabrics</i>—</dt> + <dd>Buckram</dd> + <dd>Crinoline</dd> + <dd>Cape net</dd> + <dd>Neteen or Fly net</dd> + <dd>Willow plate</dd> +</dl> + +<dl> + <dt><i>Wires</i>—</dt> + <dd>Cable</dd> + <dd>Frame or brace wire</dd> + <dd>Lace</dd> + <dd>Tie</dd> + <dd>Ribbon</dd> + <dd>Sprung</dd> +</dl> + +<dl> + <dt><i>Paper for patterns</i>—</dt> + <dd>Heavy manila</dd> +</dl> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Buckram</span>—</p> + +<p>Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide—a heavy stiff +material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more +commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a +summer buckram, lighter in weight and smooth on both sides.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Crinoline</span>—</p> + +<p>Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide—a stiff, thin, +open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire +frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the +fabric frame.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Neteen or fly net</span>—</p> + +<p>A stiff open-meshed material—comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard +wide—a very popular material on account of its great pliability and +lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being +much softer than when made with buckram. Very durable.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Cape net</span>—</p> + +<p>A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft +frames. Not as pliable as neteen.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Willow plate</span>—</p> + +<p>A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very +expensive, used in blocking; frames are also made from it without +blocking.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs.</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Wire</span> comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and is covered with +cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. It may be procured in single and +double bolts.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Cable</span>—</p> + +<p>Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as +edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame +wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame +design, if it is to be covered with sheer material.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Frame or brace wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric +hat frames.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Lace</span>—</p> + +<p>Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and +sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is +desired.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="image02" id="image02"></a><a href="images/image02-full.jpg"><img src="images/image02.jpg" width="400" height="263" alt="SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN PLACE" title="SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN PLACE" /></a> +<span class="caption">SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN PLACE</span> +</div> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Tie</span>—</p> + +<p>Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> spools. Is used +to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black, +white, and green.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Ribbon</span>—</p> + +<p>A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire +woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire +ribbons.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Sprung</span>—</p> + +<p>An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on +edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or +if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge +wire on wire frames.</p> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Hat Frames of Fabric</span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Much</span> care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame +of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made +no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step +of the way. The frame is the first step, and so the most important.</p> + +<p>The simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square +crown, covered with velvet. Such a model we will take up at first.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span></p> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Sailor hat frame</span>—</p> + +<p>For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim, +three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of +crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and +one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inches.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Pattern for brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and +one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded +into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased.</p> + +<p>A round brim will not be of equal width all around from headsize wire, +because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head. The front and +back will both be about an inch narrower than the sides.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Headsize wire</span>—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">To measure</span>—This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this +measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation +wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> where the hat +is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the +ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which +goes up into the <span class="nowrap">headsize.<a name="FNanchor_7-1_1" id="FNanchor_7-1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_7-1_1" class="fnanchor">7-1</a></span></p> + +<p>As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame +wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just +mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie <span class="nowrap">wire.<a name="FNanchor_7-2_2" id="FNanchor_7-2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_7-2_2" class="fnanchor">7-2</a></span> +Wire always laps one inch—no more, no less.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">To shape</span>—With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated +to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part +of the head.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">To locate headsize on pattern</span>—Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on +pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front +of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark +all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper +one-half inch inside this mark.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">To cut buckram brim</span>—Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut +the edges very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of +center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press +the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp +bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily +repaired.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">To sew headsize wire to brim</span>—First note the relation of headsize wire +to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half +inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance +of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire, +the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on +each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on +smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each +side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring +needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take +stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right +side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back +to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten +thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in +order to join<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram +inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes +small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be +tried on and changes made if necessary.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Edge wire</span>—</p> + +<p>This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge +of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim +as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire +to conform to shape of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to +hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward +you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as +possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting +stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the +depth of the wire. If too shallow, the wire will slip off over the edge, +or, if too deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it +unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking. A frame must +be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when +finished.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span><span class="smcap">To cover edge wire</span>—All edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a +cheap muslin. Cut a strip of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of +an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the strip. Bind the edge +wire with it, holding it very tight. Sew close to wire using a stab +stitch.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Right side</span>—<span class="smcap">wrong side</span>—</p> + +<p>This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a +short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch +at finish, but do not turn ends under.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Square crown</span>—</p> + +<p>A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded, +with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type +three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and +one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made +separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire +on the brim at the base. To eliminate any slashes or seams in the side +crown, a paper pattern should be made. Following paragraphs explain how +this is done.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Pattern for slanting side crown</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and +one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper +in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of +bottom, then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch, or +about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap +ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on +brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to +see if any alterations are necessary. It can be decided at this point +and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight. An +amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and +curves that are becoming. Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top +and bottom any irregularities on the edge.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cut side crown from buckram</span>—</p> + +<p>Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay +pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to +take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends +one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> back stitch close to each edge; this +makes two rows of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom +of side crown, keeping all joining at back. Use same method as in sewing +edge wire on brim. Cover both wires with crinoline.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Crown tips</span>—</p> + +<p>The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of +buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Soft crown tip</span>—First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim, +which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the +crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a very +little, and sew with stab stitch close under wire. Cut surplus material +off to one-fourth inch.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Stiff crown tip, made of buckram</span>—Lay top of side crown on smooth side +of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half inch +outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip, +it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the +pencil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch apart. Cut them +close to the line drawn. Pin this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> piece on top of crown, press flaps +down and sew on with stab stitch.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Crowns</span>—</p> + +<p>If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent +separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is +purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill +has been acquired by the student of millinery, a round crown of fabric +may be blocked by hand over a wire crown.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover round crown</span>—</p> + +<p>Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight +of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch +below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this +stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of material, using same method +and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew +the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this +bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom +of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in +finishing edge of facing on <span class="nowrap">brim.<a name="FNanchor_13-1_3" id="FNanchor_13-1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_13-1_3" class="fnanchor">13-1</a></span> This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> makes a neat finish for a +hat which will demand little trimming. If the amateur finds it too +difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, the edge may +be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon; the top may also +be finished by a narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire should +be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_7-1_1" id="Footnote_7-1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7-1_1"><span class="label">7-1</span></a> To cut wire see <a href="#CHAPTER_IV">chapter IV</a>.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_7-2_2" id="Footnote_7-2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7-2_2"><span class="label">7-2</span></a> To tie wire see <a href="#CHAPTER_IV">chapter IV</a>.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_13-1_3" id="Footnote_13-1_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13-1_3"><span class="label">13-1</span></a> See <a href="#CHAPTER_II">chapter II</a>.</p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET</h2> + + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Material</span> required one and one-half yards milliner's velvet or any velvet +eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. If velvet used is thirty-six inches +wide, one yard will be sufficient.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side (smooth side). +Edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet +over edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right angles to brim to +avoid marring the velvet. Pin closely all around edge of brim, pulling +material with the thread to remove any fullness. Do not pull tight +enough to bend the brim. Trim velvet off one-fourth inch to turn under +brim. Baste close to headsize wire on top with stab stitch. Cut velvet +out inside of headsize wire, leaving a half inch to slash and turn up +with the buckram.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To sew velvet edge to brim</span>—</p> + +<p>This should be done with a close overcasting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> stitch on the under side, +being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It +is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in +from the edge about one-fourth inch with the sewing machine, using a +long stitch. This stitching may then be used to put the needle through +when sewing the velvet down. If the velvet seems thick and heavy-looking +on under side after sewing, it may be pressed down with a hot iron. If +done quickly and lightly, it will not show on the right side.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 239px;"> +<a name="image03" id="image03"></a><a href="images/image03-full.jpg"><img src="images/image03.jpg" width="239" height="195" alt="SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM" title="SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM" /></a> +<span class="caption">SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM</span> +</div> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To face under side of brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of +brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around +edge, leaving a little <i>less</i> than one-fourth inch to turn under. +Facings are usually finished at the edge with a wire. Cut a piece of +frame wire the exact circumference of the brim, plus one inch for lap. +Bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of velvet, beginning at the +center back. Roll velvet over wire and bring out to edge. Pin in place +all the way around before beginning to sew. Place pins in at right +angles to brim. A piece of velvet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> held in the left hand will prevent +finger marks from showing on the velvet. Begin to sew at left of wire +joining, while holding underside of brim towards you. Bring needle +through from back close under wire. With the head of the needle press +velvet along under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the thread +of the next stitch. Take nearly a half-inch stitch by placing needle +close under the wire and coming through between the wire and the upper +facing. Come back under the wire with a very small back stitch, being +careful to adjust the wire as you sew, and to catch a little of the +upper covering with each back stitch. When wire joining is reached, +treat the lapped ends as one wire. Fasten ends securely by taking +several small back stitches. Lace wire, being smaller than frame wire, +is sometimes used to finish the edge of facing. It does not look as +heavy, but is somewhat more difficult for a beginner to handle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 245px;"> +<a name="image04" id="image04"></a><a href="images/image04-full.jpg"><img src="images/image04.jpg" width="245" height="234" alt="SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO +SEW IN PLACE" title="SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO +SEW IN PLACE" /> +</a><span class="caption">SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO +SEW IN PLACE</span> +</div> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover crown top</span>—</p> + +<p>To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front, same +shape as top of crown plus one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch +from edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> place, and sew +with stab stitch over line of gathering. Make the edge lie as flat as +possible and do not draw velvet too tight across the top.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover side crown</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than +height of crown. Pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find +length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of +material with warp thread. (Warp thread is parallel with selvage.) +Remove velvet and stitch seam. Open it and press by drawing it over the +edge of a hot iron.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To sew crown on brim</span>—</p> + +<p>The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before +adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of +crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim +and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wire. Stretch the velvet strip for +side crown on the crown, placing seam at back, unless trimming has been +planned which will cover the seam better if it is placed at some other +point. Turn top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> and press +bottom fold down close to brim. If this band has been fitted tight +enough, it will not be found necessary to sew it.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Edge of brim facing, when finished without wire</span>—</p> + +<p>A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath +without a wire, the edges being slipstitched together. In this case, the +underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place +all the way around before beginning to sew. Bring the needle through +from underside of facing to the very edge of fold. Place point of needle +directly opposite this stitch and take a small stitch in upper facing, +then take a small stitch in underfacing. Each stitch always begins just +opposite the ending of preceding stitch, so that the thread between the +two facings crosses the seam at right angles to edge of brim. This +method makes the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out of +place; however, this style of finishing an edge is not popular and +requires much practice.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover narrow brim sailor without an edge seam</span>—</p> + +<p>This method can be used satisfactorily only when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> the brim is narrow, +and the fabric pliable. For convenience we will give measurements as for +a two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge measuring forty +inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet forty inches long and seven inches +wide. Fold this velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins every +three inches through edge of fold at right angles to edge and close to +edge. This is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the +brim. If the velvet is not placed evenly, there will be found a greater +amount of fullness on one side than on the other. Place velvet over the +brim and pin on edge at points marked by pins. Stretch as tight as +possible. On a brim of this width all of the fullness should be worked +out. If this is found to be very difficult, lay the brim aside, with the +velvet pinned on, for an hour or for overnight, and the velvet will be +found to give a little more. Remove as much of the length as possible. +Locate seam, remove from frame, sew seam, and replace as before. Sew on +top close to headsize wire, working out all the fullness possible; pull +under part up into headsize. Sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire +onto the flaps, being careful not to pull the thread too tight or the +headsize wire will be reduced in size.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span><span class="smcap">Facings</span>—</p> + +<p>A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing +on a black hat. The entire facing may be of a contrasting color or +extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the +brim. In this case there could be a strip of material the same as upper +facing an inch and a half wide finished at the edge of the brim with a +wire. Then the colored facing would be finished over the edge of this +with another wire.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Brims covered with two kinds of fabric</span>—</p> + +<p>A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics, +which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of +old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the +same time have much charm. For instance, the edge of the hat could have +a bias band of satin, two or more inches wide, stretched around the edge +of the brim, with the rest of the brim covered with velvet overlapping +the satin and finished with a wire both on top and bottom, or only on +one side. Underside of brim may be finished the same way, or the facing +may be brought out even with the edge and finished with a wire.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span><span class="smcap">Shaped brim foundation</span>—</p> + +<p>The simplest <i>shaped</i> brim is the mushroom style.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To make pattern for brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure +the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the +head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim +droop, slash the pattern from the edge to the headsize wire in four +different places equally distant. Lap these slashes one-fourth inch at +the edge, and pin. The pattern may also be slashed in eight or more +different places if desired, the slashes being adjusted by lapping more +or less according to the amount of droop which may be becoming.</p> + +<p>After the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark with a pencil all +around just inside the headsize wire. Remove the wire and cut the paper +on this line. Cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat on smooth side +of buckram, leaving pins in slashes. Cut close to outside edge and allow +one-fourth inch for the lap at ends. Mark on buckram with pencil close +to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside this mark. Lap ends +one-fourth inch and backstitch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> closely at each edge of flap. Sew a +strip of crinoline flat over seam to smooth it up. Sew headsize wire on +place marked, which will be one-half inch from inside edge. Keep all +joinings at back. Slash buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every +half inch. Wire edge of brim and cover wire with crinoline—same method +as used on sailor brim.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover a mushroom-shaped brim</span>—</p> + +<p>If not very drooping, it may be covered without making a seam in the +material. To do this, begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top +at the front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, always +pulling with the thread of the material, and pin closely at edge, with +pins at right angles to the brim. If covered with georgette, satin or +silk, which is pliable, the fullness may all be worked out without a +seam. Baste close to headsize wire and finish edge by following same +method as used in finishing sailor brim. Also follow same method with +facing. If the material used is not pliable, or if the brim is too +drooping to admit of stretching the material smoothly, a seam must be +made at the back. The method would be the same as used in covering the +rolled brim.</p> + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span><span class="smcap">Sheer materials</span>—</p> + +<p>In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, it is advisable to line +with some other material first. The color could be made deeper by using +a lining of the same color, or made paler by lining with white. The +lining should be fitted and sewed on with the outside material.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Pattern for hat with rolled or close-fitting brim</span>—</p> + +<p>The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The +headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on. +The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge, +the slashes lapped over and pinned. If the hat is to be rolled more +closely on one side than on the other, the greater number of slashes +must be placed there. In this way the pattern can be adjusted to any +desired shape. It is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern +through in the back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay out flat on +another piece of paper for a new pattern. This eliminates some of the +slashes and makes further experiments easier. Pattern-making is very +impor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>tant, and it is of extreme value to make as many patterns as +possible before cutting the foundation fabric. Changing a pattern the +slightest sometimes makes a great deal of difference in its +becomingness. Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or two +in the buckram, or by inserting a V shape to give more flare, but the +fewer seams the better for the hat frame. A rolled or close-fitting brim +is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom shape.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover a close-fitting or rolled brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge. +Always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first +lesson. Draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin. Work the +material out smoothly toward the left and pin at the edge; also at the +headsize wire. Then proceed in the same way toward the right, always +pinning closely. Be <i>sure</i> to keep the material tight and smooth both at +edge and at the headsize wire. Allow the fullness to go where it will. +The seam should be located at the center back. Cut away all superfluous +material, allowing three-eighths of an inch seam at the center back. +Turn<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> the raw edges under away from each other at the seam and +slipstitch together neatly.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To slipstitch seam</span>—</p> + +<p>Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle +through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along +in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the +edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the +fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly +opposite the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the material out from +inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for +something else. Examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits +perfectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the +outside; remove all pins as soon as possible. After basting this, you +will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at +the edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down +with an overcasting stitch.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To glue velvet to the brim</span>—</p> + +<p>When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> sometimes most difficult +to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we +resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric +thinner than velvet, or on any frame other than buckram. Care should +always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when the +velvet is to be glued on.</p> + +<p>After fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the seam in the back, +remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the +headsize where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the +buckram. The glue must be spread very evenly. It will make a neater job +to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further. Be very +careful to keep the glue away from the right side of the velvet. Next, +rub the glue on the frame with a stiff brush until it is smooth, then +spread the velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it with the +hands from the headsize wire out. Watch it carefully for any places +which have not sufficient glue, as the material may be raised before it +is dry and more glue added. Do not sew the edge until the glue has +dried. Usually it is only the material on the upper side of the brim +which needs gluing down. The facing may be put on as desired. Some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>times +the top of a crown has indentations, and then the velvet may be glued to +stay in place.</p> + +<p>The under or outer facing may be fitted to a rolled or close-fitting +brim more easily than the upper. Beginning at the front with the corner +of the material, pin at the edge and at the headsize wire. Keep the +material smooth; work from right to left, and then from left to right. +Work the material around to where the seam is to be made. Cut away all +superfluous material, allowing three-eighths of an inch for a seam. +Slipstitch together as on the top and finish the edge over wire. +Whenever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">A shirred crown of fabric</span>—</p> + +<p>There are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which +taffeta, satin, georgette, or velvet may be used. Velvet is especially +beautiful made up in this way. The first method is the preferred. Cut a +circular piece of material, having a diameter the length of the crown +from front to back, measuring over the top from the headsize wire, plus +four inches.</p> + +<p>On the wrong side of the material mark circles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> (concentric) one-half +inch apart, after first having marked a circle in the center about three +inches in diameter. Gather on the line of each circle with a fine +running stitch and bring the thread through to the right side as each +circle is completed.</p> + +<p>Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut a small hole at this +point. Pull thread of the smallest circle up tight. This will form a bag +which should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the +crown top and sewed securely in place. The material should be pinned +down at four equal points at the edge of the crown, the threads of the +other circles pulled up until the material fits the crown snugly. Adjust +the fullness evenly and sew in place. This is an excellent way to use up +old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects.</p> + +<p>The second method does not make as pleasing an effect, but may be used +when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be +cut from it. A bias strip about eight inches wide and long enough to +reach around the crown, plus three or four inches, should be joined on +the lengthwise thread of the material. The first shirring or gathering +should be one-half inch from the edge, the addi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>tional threads should be +run in evenly every half inch. The first thread near the edge should +then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the +hole in the top of the crown. This method will require a somewhat larger +opening than the first. The material is then drawn down on the outside +and pinned to the bottom of the crown; the threads are then pulled tight +and firm and are fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly and sew in +place.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE</h2> + + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Lay</span> the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where +the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same +allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double +to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on +another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie +parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same +size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with +fine thread, making one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for +this as a coarse thread might show through the covering.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To join the seam in the back</span>—</p> + +<p>Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely. +This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a +strip of crinoline to smooth it up.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span><span class="smcap">To sew edge wire on neteen</span>—</p> + +<p>It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained, +however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge +first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken +in handling neteen to preserve the shape, as it is very easily stretched +and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same method +is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame. The +velvet, if velvet is used, can be glued on, but the material is so +porous that it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline make +excellent foundations for braid hats, as these materials are light in +weight, soft, and pliable. They are also very satisfactory for +children's hats.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To make a turban frame of neteen or crinoline</span>—</p> + +<p>Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height +desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement +plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which +is usually more becoming. Join the ends of bias strips on the warp +thread.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span><span class="smcap">To wire turban flare</span>—</p> + +<p>Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to +stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two +inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom, +stretching the fabric to fit if a flare is desired. A roll may be made +by slightly fulling the fabric on to the wire, which must be smaller +than for a flare. If the side of the crown is to be curved in slightly, +this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and +the bottom, drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin the tape +and sew in place. Sew another wire high enough above the tape to make +the crown the required height. If the crown is to be flared a little at +top, sew the wire inside and stretch the material as much as desired. If +the top of the crown is to be drawn in, sew the wire on the outside, +making the crown slightly smaller at the top. If sufficient material is +allowed at the top the extra amount may be drawn up over a small circle +of wire to make the crown top, but an extra piece cut for this purpose +is more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made from an extra piece +sewed over the top after the side is finished.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span><span class="smcap">Covering turbans</span>—</p> + +<p>Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the +matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of +place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone +or in combination with fabric. Velvets, georgette, satin, and taffeta +are used. A turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a +charming hat: the lower edge invariably looks better if first bound with +a bias piece of velvet no matter what the covering may be—it seems to +give a softer look around the face. A round crown of buckram makes a +good turban frame if a bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to +the lower edge to give a little flare. A frame of this kind may be +draped with velvet, satin, georgette, or any pliable material, and when +skillfully done the effect is beautiful indeed.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">WIRE FRAMES</h2> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Equipment</span></p> + +<ul class="lists"> + <li>Brace wire or frame wire</li> + <li>Tie wire</li> + <li>Sprung wire</li> + <li>Pliers</li> +</ul> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To open coil of wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen +gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils +separate.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cut wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the +point where they cut and press straight down. Be sure to cut with the +first attempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the pliers are +injured and the covering loosened at the ends of the wire which will +make it impossible to tie them together.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span><span class="smcap">To straighten wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Pass the wire between the thumb and finger with a sweeping motion. A +piece of cloth or paper may be held in the hand if the fingers become +tender. Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting to straighten +it, as it will be impossible to remove them.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To tie wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Ends of brace wire parallel.</p> + +<p>Right angles tied diagonally.</p> + +<p>Brace wire tied without use of tie wire.</p> + +<p>Before beginning to make a frame of wire, time will be saved and +necessary experience gained by tying a few short pieces of wire, until a +strong joint can be made. Cut fifty pieces or more of tie wire +three-quarters of an inch long. Cut two pieces of brace or frame wire +two or three inches long. Lap the ends of the heavy wire one inch, then +lap one of these pieces of tie wire around once as close to the end of +the brace wire as is possible. Hold in the left hand and with the end of +the pliers grasp the ends of the tie wire as close to the brace wire as +possible and twist tightly until the joint feels firm. Place pliers back +a little and twist several times<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> until a little cable is formed. Cut +this off, leaving an eighth-inch end. Press this end down flat with the +jaws of the pliers. Tie the other end in the same manner. Practice this +until a satisfactory joint can be made with ease, before attempting to +make a frame of wire.</p> + +<table width="80%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations"> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" style="width: 50%"><a name="image05" id="image05"></a><a href="images/image05-full.jpg"><img src="images/image05.jpg" width="145" height="129" alt="TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE" title="TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE</span></td> + <td class="tdc" style="width: 50%"><a name="image06" id="image06"></a><a href="images/image06-full.jpg"><img src="images/image06.jpg" width="150" height="70" alt="TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH USE OF TIE WIRE" title="TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH USE OF TIE WIRE" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH USE OF TIE WIRE</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdc"><a name="image07" id="image07"></a><a href="images/image07-full.jpg"><img src="images/image07.jpg" width="146" height="72" alt="METHOD OF MAKING PAPER PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM" title="METHOD OF MAKING PAPER PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">METHOD OF MAKING PAPER PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM</span></td> + <td class="tdc"><a name="image08" id="image08"></a><a href="images/image08-full.jpg"><img src="images/image08.jpg" width="144" height="65" alt="METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON DROOPING BRIM" title="METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON DROOPING BRIM" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON DROOPING BRIM</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdc"><a name="image09" id="image09"></a><a href="images/image09-full.jpg"><img src="images/image09.jpg" width="147" height="91" alt="BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT +LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS VERY GREAT" title="BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT +LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS VERY GREAT" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT +LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS VERY GREAT</span></td> + <td class="tdc"><a name="image10" id="image10"></a><a href="images/image10-full.jpg"><img src="images/image10.jpg" width="111" height="111" alt="PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. +ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT" title="PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. +ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. +ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To fasten two pieces of brace wire diagonally</span>—</p> + +<p class="heading" style="margin-top: 0em;"><span class="smcap">To fasten two pieces of brace wire without the use of tie wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened, +at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches +extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the +end straight backward, close to and parallel with the other end of the +wire. The end should pass once and a half around. Use the jaws of the +pliers to press parallel wires in the twist together, and to tighten the +twist. Cut the end off close and use the pliers to press the end down +flat.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To make wire frame for hat having flat brim and square crown</span>—</p> + +<p>Always remember that it will greatly simplify<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> the work first to make a +paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of +the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more +satisfactory first to make a paper pattern.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Pattern for brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to +fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply. +Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease. +This is to determine the position of the wire spokes in the brim. The +eight creases will correspond to the eight spokes in the brim; this is +the correct number of spokes.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Headsize wire for wire frame</span>—</p> + +<p>A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut two just alike, +remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in +any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements +taken for this wire. Measure as for the headsize in a fabric hat, +lapping the ends one inch, and tying them. Try on these wires and shape +to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> fit the head. They should usually be elongated two inches.</p> + +<p>Pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern, placing the joining on the +back crease and the exact center front of wire on the front crease; next +pin the sides securely, being careful to keep the wire shaped to fit the +head. Allow one-half inch inside of wire and slash every half inch out +to headsize wire. The pattern may now be tried on the head for any +necessary alterations. The brim pattern may be added to or cut away.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Working measurements needed</span>—</p> + +<p>Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire. Before +removing the wire, mark the eight different points where it crosses the +creases in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the pattern.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Sticks for brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter +of the brim plus three inches for finishing. Place one of these sticks +across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the +pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> length. Fasten to the +headsize wire with tie wire. Place the next stick from side to side, +joining on the pencil marks. The two remaining sticks when placed on the +remaining marks divide the circle into eighths. This is called the +skeleton of the brim; the wires are named <i>front</i>, <i>back</i>, <i>right side</i>, +<i>left side</i>, <i>right side front</i>, <i>right side back</i>, <i>left side front</i>, +<i>left side back</i>. The position of these ends or spokes should correspond +to the creases in the paper pattern, and the length of each one should +be determined by measuring the corresponding crease on the pattern.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Edge wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the +brim plus one inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the +pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it, always +keeping the tied ends on the back crease. If these measurements are +carefully made, the brim will be exactly like the pattern.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To join edge wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Begin at the back and place the mark on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> edge wire on the back spoke +at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around +the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut +the end off close and press the cut end flat with the pliers. Next +finish the center front spoke, then the sides and those in between. A +great deal depends upon accuracy in making an acceptable wire frame. Add +as many circles of wire between the edge wire and the headsize wire as +desired, fastening to the spokes with tie wire. Keep all wire laps at +the back on the center spoke.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Collar of brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these +wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at +right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the +top of these wires, using the same method as for joining the edge wire. +This collar may be made very low or as high as the wires will permit. A +separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very +sheer material or sheer braid. In such a case the collar would be made +as high as possible to make a support for the crown trimming.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span><span class="smcap">Square crown for wire frame</span>—</p> + +<p>Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to +reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown +to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for +finishing. Cut and join a small circle of brace wire—about three inches +in diameter—for the crown top. Lay the four sticks across this circle +dividing it into eight equal sections as at the beginning of the brim, +and join to the sticks with tie wire. Cut a piece of brace wire one inch +smaller than the headsize wire. Lap the ends and tie this wire. Elongate +slightly. Join to the sticks outside of the small circle. Keep all +lapped ends of circles on the center back spoke. Bend spokes down <i>over</i> +this circle, then measure down from this circle for the height of crown +and mark on spokes with pencil. Be very accurate.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Base wire for crown</span>—</p> + +<p>Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the +headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base +wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize +wire on the brim. Place this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> circle, after having shaped it like the +headsize wire, on the inside of the spokes at the point marked, +beginning at the center back, and finish as any edge wire by twisting +the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire. Press the wires +down tight with the pliers. Cut the ends off close and press flat with +the jaws of the pliers. Many more circles may be added and tied on with +tie wire if desired; also more spokes may be added. This would be +desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or if used for +blocking fabric for frames.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Transparent hats</span>—</p> + +<p>If a wire frame is to be covered with thin material, great care and +thought should be given to the frame, for it then forms part of the +design of the hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in this case, or a +beautiful frame may be made for thin materials by using a satin-covered +cable wire, and using as few wires as possible. It may seem advisable +after a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">ROUND CROWN OF WIRE</h2> + + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">A round</span> crown is one which rounds from tip to base. First straighten, +measure, and cut four sticks of brace wire, as for square crown, of the +ordinary length, allowing for finishing. Cut and join the ends of a +short piece of brace wire five or six inches long. This makes a small +circle for the top of the crown. Begin by tying the sticks across this +circle under it, dividing it into halves, quarters, and eighths, being +careful that the divisions are made accurately and that the sticks +extend an equal length from the circle. Keep these wires <i>flat</i> across +this circle. The sticks may now be curved down. It is sometimes found +easier to attach the base wire at this point before adding other +circles.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 217px;"> +<a name="image11" id="image11"></a><a href="images/image11-full.jpg"><img src="images/image11.jpg" width="217" height="134" alt="FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID" title="FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID" /></a> +<span class="caption">FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 276px; margin-top: 2em;"> +<a name="image12" id="image12"></a><a href="images/image12-full.jpg"><img src="images/image12.jpg" width="276" height="99" alt="ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS +MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED" title="ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS +MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED" /> +</a><span class="caption">ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS +MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px; margin-top: 2em;"> +<a name="image13" id="image13"></a><a href="images/image13-full.jpg"><img src="images/image13.jpg" width="283" height="159" alt="ROUND CROWN OF WIRE" title="ROUND CROWN OF WIRE" /></a> +<span class="caption">ROUND CROWN OF WIRE</span> +</div> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Base wire</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer than the wire used for +the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch. Make this the same shape as +the headsize wire and test the size by trying it on over<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> the headsize +wire on the brim for which the crown is made. An ordinary height for a +round crown would be seven inches from tip to base wire, but to be safe, +it is always better to measure the head. Sometimes, on account of an +abundance of hair or a high coiffure, a greater height is needed. If the +base wire is elongated to fit the head, the side measurement from the +tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter than from the tip to +the front and the back. It will be most helpful to take an old crown +which has an elongated headsize and either measure it and work from the +measures or else work over it.</p> + +<p>The crown must be even at the bottom when finished, and when placed upon +the table must rest evenly. The base wire may be tied with tie wire on +the front and back spokes and on each side spoke until the circles +between it and the crown tip are added. It will then be found easy to +adjust it before finishing off the wires; i.e., the crown may be made +higher or lower.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Circles or hoops</span>—</p> + +<p>Add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at +the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same +size. Keep<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will +conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little +further apart at the front and back than at the sides.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To finish the base of the crown</span>—</p> + +<p>The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base +wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the +brim.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">A shaped wire frame made in one piece</span>—</p> + +<p>The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or +one that droops a little. Before beginning this hat it will be found +easier to have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be necessary to +make a pattern for the crown, which may be either round or square, and +for which directions have already been given.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Pattern for brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric +shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or +fit quite close. In either case the method is the same.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on to shape. Mark on the +wire at the point where the creases touch the wire. It is important not +to hurry at this point. Make many patterns and then choose the most +becoming one. After the pattern is perfected, crease it sharply the same +as in the sailor brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern and +use them in marking the wires. This brim pattern is not needed until the +crown has been made. In making a wire frame in one piece, we begin at +the top of the crown and work down.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Crown</span>—</p> + +<p>Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the +width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to +finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming +frayed it is better to have a generous allowance. Begin at the crown tip +and work down until ready for the headsize wire. The last wire is or +should be of the same size as the regular headsize wire. Place the lap +of the headsize wire on the back spoke of the crown and join by twisting +the spokes once and a half around. Join the front and remaining spokes +in the same way, being careful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> to join where the wire was marked at the +creases on the pattern.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Brim</span>—</p> + +<p>We are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern. +Mark the length of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are to be +apart should be marked on the edge wire. These measurements are taken +from the pattern. Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as +many circles between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired.</p> + +<p>We have now made in wire the first variation from a perfectly flat brim. +Always make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and +then measurements may be taken from the hat to be copied. Here are some +of the reasons why the pattern is important: first, it may be tried on +and this helps to decide if the style is becoming, before working it out +in wire; second, the position of the wires may be determined and marked +on the paper pattern; third, the more work done from a paper pattern the +easier it will be to copy; fourth, it trains the eye, thus making +free-hand work much easier.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span><span class="smcap">A rolling brim</span>—</p> + +<p>Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim, the same +method is used. First, as always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to +roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other, extra wires +will be needed to fill the space. The place for these may be determined +on the paper pattern. They may go all the way around, being brought more +closely together on the low side or only part way around as in the +illustration.</p> + +<p>Wire frame making requires much patience and practice. It is an art just +as all millinery is an art. Lines are all important. Because of this I +urge much pattern making. Even though one may not have the fundamental +principles of art, something really good often develops and we find we +have built better than we knew. It stimulates originality, but we must +work without <i>fear</i>.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To color wire frames</span>—</p> + +<p>Wires come in both black and white. A white frame may be colored to +match any sheer fabric used for its covering. It will be found to be +more simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of the cold or soap +dyes may be used. If these are not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> available, a piece of velveteen +soaked in alcohol and rubbed on the frame will give of its color +sufficiently to tint the wire. Crêpe paper may also be used, or +water-color paints. Rouge may be used effectively if moistened. There +are also gold and silver wires which may be used for frames when +desired, and which will add to the beauty of the design. If they cannot +be purchased, a frame of white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt, +applying it to the frame with a small brush.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Halo hat brims</span>—</p> + +<p>Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but to be effective the material +should be sheer. Malines, nets, georgette crêpe, or chiffon are all used +to good effect in making this style of hat. Good-looking halo brims have +been made from old georgette waists, using the back for the brim and the +front and sleeves for the crown.</p> + +<p>Only two wires are used in making this brim, the edge wire and the +headsize wire. The size of the brim is to be determined and then a hoop +of sprung wire cut just the length of the circumference of the brim. +This wire is uncovered; the ends just meet and are joined by the use of +a little clamp, the ends<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> being inserted and pressed down with the jaws +of the pliers.</p> + +<p>Place the material from which the brim is to be made upon a flat +surface. If of maline, several thicknesses may be used. Fasten this +material down to the table slightly with pins or thumb tacks. Lay a +circle of sprung wire on the material and pin in place. Begin by pinning +the back, front, and then each side, being careful not to pull the wire +out of shape. Take the work up and pin the material closely all around +the edge. Cut off, allowing one-quarter of an inch to turn over the +wire. Sew to the wire closely with an overcasting stitch or with a +running stitch just inside of the wire. The edge may be bound with a +fold of the same material, a fold of satin or one row of braid.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Headsize wire for halo brim</span>—</p> + +<p>This headsize wire is made of frame wire. First measure, then cut, join +ends, and shape as for any hat. Lay the headsize wire on the material, +having the joining at the back. The front and the back of the brim, if +of equal width, will be somewhat narrower than the side because of the +elongated headsize wire; however, the headsize wire may be placed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> on +the brim in any position desired. Pin in place and sew with an +overcasting stitch. Trim the material inside the headsize wire, leaving +an extension of one-quarter of an inch to turn over; it will be found +necessary to sew this down over the wire, making the edge more secure.</p> + +<p>Another method of making a halo brim is accomplished by cutting a piece +of material on the bias, twice as wide as the brim and as long as the +circumference. Stretch this piece of material, then pin the center of +the strip over the edge wire, gather the raw edges to fit the headsize +wire and sew in place. This method does not make a smooth brim, but is +more quickly made. When two thicknesses of sheer material are used for +halo brims a very pretty effect is obtained by placing flat flowers, +petals of flowers, or feathers between the two materials.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Crown for halo brim</span>—</p> + +<p>This may be very sheer, although a halo brim may be used on a braid or +satin crown if desired. A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of +a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. This is sewed to the +headsize wire. The covering<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> for the crown is usually made in the shape +of a circle about fourteen inches in diameter, with the same number of +thicknesses as the brim. Gather one-quarter of an inch from the edge, +adjust fullness and sew to the headsize wire. The height of the crown +depends upon the style of hair dressing. Place a band of the same +material as the crown, or a narrow ribbon, around the base of the crown +for trimming and to conceal the wires. A wired bow of the sheer material +may be used very effectively. (See <a href="#Page_69">chapter on “Bows.”</a>)</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">HAT COVERINGS</h2> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover with braid</span>—</p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Great</span> care and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw +braid. The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied, +as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames. +(See <a href="#image14">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<p>The stitch used for sewing braid is always the same—a very short stitch +on the right side, and a stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong +side. The thread must not be pulled too tight, or the position of the +stitches may be seen; also always match the thread to the straw. Straw +braid may be sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline frame +except when a <i>very</i> soft hat is desired; it may then be sewed and +shaped over a wire or buckram frame, but not on to it, as it is to be +removed from the frame after sewing; or, if the braid is coarse, it may +be sewed to a wire frame which has been previously covered with +crinoline or mull. (See <a href="#image14">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;"> +<a name="image14" id="image14"></a><a href="images/image14-full.jpg"><img src="images/image14.jpg" width="382" height="312" alt="ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN +PLACE" title="ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN +PLACE" /></a> +<span class="caption">ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN +PLACE</span> +</div> + +<p>Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> fabric is used on top. +In this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitches +may be taken through the brim, which the fabric on top will cover.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To pin in place on the frame</span>—</p> + +<p>Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim, +beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the +right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back +is reached. Curve the second row gradually up from the center back; do +not make an abrupt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usually +one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a thread at the edge of most +braids which may be pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed +on a curve. The outside edge of the first row must be left free for the +edge of the fabric, which covers the other side, to be slipped under. Do +not begin sewing until the second row is basted in place.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To sew</span>—</p> + +<p>Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under +side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and +the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> if the +thread is not pulled too tight. Take a stitch on the wrong side from +one-quarter to one-half an inch in length, depending upon the width and +quality of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the braid until the +headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one +inch. If the brim is wider at some points than at others, the wider side +must be filled in with short strips following the same curve, being +careful that the ends are left long enough to extend up beyond the +headsize wire one inch. When the brim is very much wider at some points, +short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is +sewed; this would not make such an abrupt curve, and the general lines +of the braid would be more pleasing.</p> + +<p>When one side of the brim is to be covered with fabric, fit this to the +brim, baste at the headsize wire and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter +of an inch to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the first row +of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric under. Pin and slipstitch to +place through the straw.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Both sides of brim covered with braid</span>—</p> + +<p>Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim +both on the top and the bot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>tom. These edges may be brought together +with a small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first +bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a row of braid or gay-colored +material. If the edge of the brim is bound, the edges of the first rows +of braid at the top and bottom would not meet. The bound edge thus +showing gives the effect of a cord.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To cover a crown with braid</span>—</p> + +<p>Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the second row off from the +first row the same as on the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread +(which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) and sew until +the center of the crown tip is reached, when a hole in the top of the +crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the +underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat all the +way. Sometimes it is easier to begin sewing the braid on at the very +center of the top of the crown, or a few rows may be sewed to a small +circle of crinoline before attaching to the top of the crown.</p> + +<p>If a braid is used which is composed of four or five smaller braids +sewed together, the method is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> the same until the crown tip is reached +or a place where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat. The braid +must then be separated into the smaller strands and one cut off at a +time, and each end lapped under the preceding strand; proceed with the +remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until only one remains to +finish the center with. When the crown tip is completed, push the +remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to +the inside of the crown. When using this kind of braid the operation may +be reversed, beginning at the center of the top and covering a small +circle of buckram with braid; press it with a warm iron to flatten it, +then sew in place on the crown and complete the covering. This seems the +easier method, because the top of the crown will look much better if +pressed and this will be found hard to do unless begun on a small +separate piece of buckram.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To piece braid</span>—</p> + +<p>Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when +careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of +several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart +for several inches and the strands<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> cut in unequal lengths; also the +strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of +such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one +inch. The ends cut in this way may be tucked under one at a time without +the joining being noticeable. If the braid is very wide it may seem best +when covering a frame to cut and join the ends of the row of braid. It +would then be better to make a straight joining in the back.</p> + +<p>If a fancy braid is to be pieced, the ends are lapped diagonally and +sewed flat. If a fancy joining is part of the design, a simple one is to +lap the ends to look as though woven. This may be employed on a crown or +brim or both, and it then becomes a part of the design. Also the top of +the crown or any part of the hat may have a woven covering of braid, but +any such fancy method requires an additional amount of braid.</p> + +<p>The top of the crown may be covered by laying the braid on straight from +front to back, allowing the ends to extend down on the side crown an +inch or more. The braid of the side crown should cover these ends. The +brim of a narrow hat is often covered with short lengths of braid +radiating from the headsize wire, the ends extending up on the crown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +one inch. A fabric is often combined with braid for the sake of design, +or if there is an insufficient quantity of braid.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Crown top of braid, side crown of fabric</span>—</p> + +<p class="heading" style="margin-top: 0em;"><span class="smcap">Side crown of braid and top of fabric</span>—</p> + +<p class="heading" style="margin-top: 0em;"><span class="smcap">Band of material, plain or corded, set in side crown</span>—</p> + +<p class="heading" style="margin-top: 0em;"><span class="smcap">Brim and crown made from small pieces of silk and braid</span>—</p> + +<p>A very soft-looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire +foundation which has been made for the purpose. The braid may be pinned +on the brim of wire and sewed, being careful not to attach the braid to +the frame; slip the needle over the wire and finish sewing the braid +while it is still pinned to the brim, then remove, press slightly, and +sew a facing of braid to the under side of the brim if desired. Some +kinds of braid may be dampened before pressing, but it is safer to +experiment first with a small piece, for some braid is ruined by +pressing.</p> + +<p>A soft crown of braid should be fitted over a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> wire crown and sewed in +the same way. After removing it from the wire frame, it can be slightly +pressed by holding it over a thick cloth held in the hand and pressing a +warm iron to the outside. A soft hat of braid can more easily be made by +first making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid to it. Horsehair +braid crowns are beautiful when shaped over a wire foundation. They may +be pressed slightly (after being removed from the wire crown over which +they have been shaped) when they will be found to keep their shape. The +brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out in shape and the braid +should be caught down to the wire as it is being sewed. A small lace +wire should be used for this foundation, four spokes together with the +headsize wire and edge wire being sufficient. The wire should be wound +with maline or have a facing of maline. Horsehair braid is transparent. +There are many fanciful ways of using braid on a hat, but these can be +readily copied if the foregoing methods have been mastered. Be very +careful about pressing braids or adding moisture as it ruins some +braids, while others must be moistened before they can be handled in +sewing to a hat frame.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span><span class="smcap">Covering wire frames with maline, net or georgette</span>—</p> + +<p>Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material, such as maline, +net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a +part of the design, and the wire should be silk covered.</p> + +<p>If maline is used, it should be pleated or gathered on, unless the brim +is of the halo style, for which directions are given elsewhere. Four or +five thicknesses of maline are necessary. The material is often gathered +in small quarter-inch tucks at the points where the tuck may be sewed to +the circle wire on the brim or the crown. A small tuck at the edge wire +would make a softer looking edge than if put on plain. The fullness is +then gathered in and sewed to the headsize wire. If the edge is left +plain, a few rows of lacey-looking braid may be sewed on the edge. A +wide tuck hanging down from the edge is sometimes used and it is very +becoming to certain types of faces. The wires of a frame are often first +wound with narrow bias pieces of net or maline. The edges are turned in +and the material wrapped on smoothly and evenly. Sometimes the wires are +wound with a contrasting color.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>An effective covering for any frame may be made from ribbon or bias +strips of satin or silk, velvet or georgette, or any soft fabric. If a +wire frame is used, it must first be covered with a thin plain material +to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon or strips of material may +be sewed, or a frame of neteen or crinoline may be used if a very soft +hat is desired.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Ribbon covering</span>—</p> + +<p>If a ribbon is used, it must be gathered on one edge so that it may be +drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid on the same as braid. An +inch-wide ribbon is easily handled.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Bias fabric</span>—</p> + +<p>If bias strips of silk or satin are used, the material should be cut in +strips two and one-half inches wide, on a true bias, and joined in one +long strip. Fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges +together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge. This +is sewed to the frame the same as braid, the folded edge overlapping the +raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> it is pinned and sewed +in place. This is an excellent way to use up old material.</p> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Hat Linings</span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">A hat</span> lining should receive the same careful consideration and +workmanship as the outside of the hat. From the milliner's point of view +it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A +well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk, enhances the +value of a hat. Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the +lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil.</p> + +<p>There are three popular kinds of linings—</p> + +<ul class="lists"> + <li>Plain lining</li> + <li>French lining</li> + <li>Tailored lining</li> +</ul> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Plain lining</span>—</p> + +<p>This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the +headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as +the crown height plus two and one-half inches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 383px;"> +<a name="image15" id="image15"></a><a href="images/image15-full.jpg"><img src="images/image15.jpg" width="383" height="305" alt="SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS +SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP +TO FIT CROWN" title="SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS +SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP +TO FIT CROWN" /></a> +<span class="caption">SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS +SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP +TO FIT CROWN</span> +</div> + +<p>Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> back of the hat; fold +the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside +of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the +hat is on the head. Pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the +two ends together; then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in +place. The method is to bring the needle from the underside of the +lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on +the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold +at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from +the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached. +Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a +running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow +ribbon should be run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make the +lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with this lining, which is +made of a piece of silk four inches square, sewed or glued to the inside +of the crown top. On this piece the designer's name is usually found.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">French lining</span>—</p> + +<p>This lining is made from an oval piece of silk<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> which corresponds to the +crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side +to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the +inside of the hat at the headsize and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over +the wire one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the wire using +a small running stitch. After completed, pin in place and slipstitch to +the crown. This lining will reduce the headsize of any hat somewhat, so +it should never be used if there is any danger of making the hat too +small for the head.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Tailored lining</span>—</p> + +<p>This lining is rather the most popular lining used. Large firms send +their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be +bought ready-made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be +easily made into one of these linings.</p> + +<p>Cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as the top of crown, baste +a piece of silk lining over this. Pin this on top of the crown, as this +can best be fitted on the outside and should be done before the hat is +made. Now cut a piece of bias material long enough to reach around the +bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> points. +After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up one-quarter of an inch at the +bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown. Stretch snugly because the +inside of the crown is smaller; pin the fullness to the crown top all +around, gather between pins, and baste in place. Stitch on the machine. +This seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover the seam.</p> + +<p>Linings may be made of taffeta, china silk, satin, sateen or of almost +any material which is not too heavy. When a wire frame is covered with +thin material and the frame shows through, the hat should have a thin +lining. If the hat is covered with maline, use a maline lining; if with +georgette, a georgette lining should be used.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">TRIMMINGS</h2> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Milliner's fold</span>—</p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Cut</span> from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a +bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This +must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof +threads parallel. Any other bias is called a garment bias. Hold the +wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side +toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge. The basting +thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave +the basting in. Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges +meet, but do not baste. Fold again, keeping this last fold one-quarter +of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place +and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the edge of the fold and +take a long stitch, then, going down through to the other side, take a +short stitch. Come back through a little under the fold to hide<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> the +stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before, and +continue in this manner. The thread should be kept loose all the way to +permit the fold to be stretched slightly when used. The fold when +finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it.</p> + +<p>Another separate single fold may be added to this; it is then called a +French fold. The milliner's fold has many uses, such as finishing the +edge of hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining of the hat +to the brim. It is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and +is much used in mourning millinery, when it is made of crêpe.</p> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Bows</span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">For</span> the inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy +many different styles of bows, using either tissue paper or cheap +cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times. +Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for an amateur, while for some +students of millinery it is very easy, but any one with patience may +become quite expert in time.</p> + +<p>Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width of the ribbon which is +to be used. In this way the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> exact amount of ribbon may be determined, +as well as the length of each loop. If a stiff, smart-looking bow is to +be made, fold the ribbon in loops before pleating. If a soft-looking or +puffy, “fat”-looking bow is desired, pleat the ribbon singly before +making the loops. The soft bow is often used for children's hats. After +the desired number of loops is made, wind a strong thread around the +center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center +several times until the center is filled up sufficiently to look well.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Bows of maline</span>—</p> + +<p>Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it +lends itself to many uses. Hat frames are covered with maline; it is +used to cover wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or +worn-out flowers; for shirred brims and crowns; for pleatings; for folds +on edges of brims to give a soft look; and for bows.</p> + +<p>A bow of maline requires wiring with a very small tie wire or lace wire. +The wire may be caught in a fold at the edge of the loops, or the loops +may be made double with the wire caught inside.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span><span class="smcap">Wired ribbon bows</span>—</p> + +<p>Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired. Silk, satin, +velvet, or any kind of ribbon can be used. The flat ribbon wire is +sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two +colors are rather effectively used in this way. The wire may also be +stitched to one edge of the ribbon. This is done by turning the ribbon +over the wire at the edge and stitching on the sewing machine. The ends +of the wire should extend two inches beyond the ends of the loop of the +bow. After the bow is arranged, these ends should be bent out and back, +making loops which are sewed down to the hat. This holds the bow very +firmly, especially if a small piece of buckram is placed inside the hat +at the point at which the bow is to be sewed. This re-enforces the frame +and makes it still more firm. If a bow is to be placed on top of a +crown, a hole may be made and the ribbon which completes the middle of +the bow may be brought up from the inside of the crown through this +opening, over the bow, and down through this opening and fastened inside +of the crown.</p> + +<p>A narrow ribbon of velvet is very pretty twisted over a wire and two +perky loops and ends made.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> These are very pretty perched on the edge of +a brim or among flowers on the hat.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">True lovers' knot</span>—</p> + +<p>This is not, strictly speaking, a bow, but comes under this head. The +ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed flat as it is made. It may +be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made of gold +ribbon.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Tailored bow</span>—</p> + +<p>This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon which has both sides +alike, although it may be made from any ribbon. A Knox tailored bow is +made from gros-grained ribbon. Cut a small piece of buckram for a +foundation to sew the ribbon on. This should be sufficiently small so +that the ribbon will conceal it. Make two loops of equal length, letting +the ribbon lie perfectly flat. Measurements should be very exact. Sew +these loops firmly to the buckram; fold the ribbon back and forth to +make these loops without cutting. Next fold two more loops, one on each +side, one-quarter of an inch shorter and exactly on top. Sew firmly and +cut the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> ribbon off at the center. Fasten two short ends to the back of +the bow, allowing them to extend one-quarter of an inch and cut +diagonally. Take a short length of ribbon and pleat it once through the +center. Wrap this once around the bow and fasten at the back.</p> + +<p>This bow is much used on sailors or any tailored hat. There are many +kinds of fancy bows brought out from season to season, but if the making +of a few styles of standard bows is mastered, others may be easily +copied.</p> + +<table width="80%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations"> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" rowspan="2" style="width: 50%"><a name="image16" id="image16"></a><a href="images/image16-full.jpg"><img src="images/image16.jpg" width="62" height="144" alt="SECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON +THE WIRE" title="SECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON +THE WIRE" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON +THE WIRE</span></td> + <td class="tdc"><a name="image17" id="image17"></a><a href="images/image17-full.jpg"><img src="images/image17.jpg" width="129" height="67" alt="RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM" title="RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdc"><a name="image18" id="image18"></a><a href="images/image18-full.jpg"><img src="images/image18.jpg" width="130" height="78" alt="TRUE LOVERS' KNOT" title="TRUE LOVERS' KNOT" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TRUE LOVERS' KNOT</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a name="image19" id="image19"></a><a href="images/image19-full.jpg"><img src="images/image19.jpg" width="192" height="113" alt="RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION" title="RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a name="image20" id="image20"></a><a href="images/image20-full.jpg"><img src="images/image20.jpg" width="188" height="127" alt="SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)" title="SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see <a href="#Page_91">page 91</a>)</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Pleatings</span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">A pleating</span> is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made, +it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its +attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be +made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a +thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating +requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a +half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and +one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread. +Press slightly on the wrong side before using.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span><span class="smcap">Box pleating</span>—</p> + +<p>This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the +right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If +the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be <i>one</i> +inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on +the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center +and the edges caught together.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Double or triple box-pleating</span>—</p> + +<p>This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other. +Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same +number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the +box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This +pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after +having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed. +The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and +it is then known as <i>rose pleating</i>.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Radiating</span>—</p> + +<p>This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> very handsome +ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually +required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations +given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other +models and original designs can be easily made.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Foundations of buckram</span>—</p> + +<p>The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from +buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant +places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the +center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may +be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five +yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would be placed near the +outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The +pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the +pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this +first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested +by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the +pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these +points. The last or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> finishing row is the most difficult of all. The +pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge +be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is +sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished +without either bow or button.</p> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Pompons</span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Maline</span> pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made +perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses +of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the +elongated pompon would be cut like pattern “a.” Each piece is folded +lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which +has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are +left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact.</p> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Ribbon Rosettes</span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">There</span> are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes +several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with +thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> is made of narrow +ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more +of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot +placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Rosettes from old plumes</span>—</p> + +<p>An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from +the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small +portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers +together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be +wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing +addition.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">HAND-MADE FLOWERS</h2> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Flowers</span></p> + +<dl> + <dt><span class="smcap">Material required</span>:</dt> + <dd>Tie wire, green</dd> + <dd>Gum tissue, brown and green</dd> + <dd>Cotton batting</dd> + <dd>Milliner's glue</dd> + <dd>Yellow stamens</dd> + <dd>Dark green tissue paper</dd> +</dl> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Flowers</span> may be made from almost any fabric—satin, velvet, georgette, +maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag +for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials. +Any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits. Such a +bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers +and fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in trimmings, but +hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats, gowns, suits, +and muffs. They are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A generous +number of the best examples are given here with illustrations.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>To prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult, but to arrange +them is another matter. Study the face of any blossom which you are +making and try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning the +petals in place before sewing them is of great value, otherwise they are +apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;"> +<a name="image21" id="image21"></a><a href="images/image21-full.jpg"><img src="images/image21.jpg" width="366" height="383" alt="A. AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE WITH DETAIL. B. RIBBON ROSE. C. +CHERRIES WITH DETAIL. D. ORCHIDS WITH LILIES OF THE VALLEY. E. RAISINS. +F. WIRED ROSE WITH DETAIL. G. POINSETTIA." title="A. AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE WITH DETAIL. B. RIBBON ROSE. C. +CHERRIES WITH DETAIL. D. ORCHIDS WITH LILIES OF THE VALLEY. E. RAISINS. +F. WIRED ROSE WITH DETAIL. G. POINSETTIA." /></a> +<span class="caption">A. AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE WITH DETAIL. B. RIBBON ROSE. C. +CHERRIES WITH DETAIL. D. ORCHIDS WITH LILIES OF THE VALLEY. E. RAISINS. +F. WIRED ROSE WITH DETAIL. G. POINSETTIA.</span> +</div> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">American Beauty rose</span>—</p> + +<p>This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may have as many petals as +desired. Each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the +diagram (1). It is highly important that the folded edge be on a <i>true</i> +bias. Begin the rose by cutting three petals like the illustration, with +the bias edge one and one-half inches long. Run a gathering thread +one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, leaving a thread one inch +long so that the petal may be adjusted as it is pinned in place. Make a +loop one inch long on the end of a piece of wire six inches long. Cover +this loop with a small circle of the material like the rose. It is +sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this circle with cotton to +make a soft center for the rose.</p> + +<p>For an ordinary-sized rose there should be eighteen petals. The first +three are already described<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> as having a one and one-half-inch bias. The +next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be correspondingly +wider; the next five should have a two and one-half-inch bias, and the +next five a three-inch bias. The three small petals should be arranged +around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place before sewing. Sew +securely. Each row, as it is arranged according to size, should be +pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed +effectively. Each row should be placed a little higher than the +preceding one. See that the face of the flower looks as nearly like a +real rose as possible, allowing the back to look as it will.</p> + +<p>With a little experience one soon becomes efficient and learns how to +adjust the different materials. Some materials being more pliable than +others, the shape of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the +need. The back of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number +of green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the +purpose. A small green cup is also added to finish the base; these may +be bought at ribbon counters. The bud used with this rose may be made by +using the three smallest petals. Some green foliage must also be used +with this rose and the stem bound<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> with a narrow gray-green ribbon, or +with gum tissue which should be warmed before using. The inside petals +may be of a darker shade than the outside petals.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Ribbon rose</span>—</p> + +<p>To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon +two inches wide. There are several different methods of making the +center for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be made from a +piece of the ribbon, four inches long. Fold this in half. Sew the +selvages together along one side. Turn and fill with cotton around which +has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame wire. A little +rose-scented sachet powder may be sprinkled on this cotton to add +perfume to the blossom. Gather the satin down close to the wire after +rounding the corners at the lower edges. Two yards should make this +center and eighteen petals. More may be added or fewer may be used. For +the first row cut three lengths three inches long; the second row, five +lengths three and one-half inches long; third row, five lengths four +inches long; fourth row five lengths four and one-half inches long. Each +petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> Fold the two +ends together, turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and +pin in place. Now raise the end on the back of the petal and catch the +corners down with a few small stitches. Replace the end and gather the +raw edges together, but do not draw up close. Prepare all of the petals +in the same way before beginning to sew them to the center. Sometimes a +tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each petal to make the rose look +larger. When all the petals are finished, begin the rose by adding the +three smallest petals first. Pin in place around the center, wrapping +them closely around it and letting them extend about one-eighth of an +inch above the point. Add the next row, pinning each petal in place +before sewing. Place each succeeding row one-eighth of an inch above the +preceding one. Watch the face of the blossom carefully and see that it +looks as natural as possible. The back of the blossom will be covered +when finished, either with a few old rose leaves and a rose cup, or +points of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves. A rubber stem may be +bought to slip over the wire on which the rose is sewed, or the wire may +be wound with green floss, baby ribbon, green tissue paper, or gum +tissue. If the rose is to be full blown, it would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> be much better to +make the center of yellow stamens.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Wild rose of silk</span>—</p> + +<p>The petals for the wild rose may be cut from the same pattern as for the +first rose given. This same pattern is used for many different +flowers—the wild rose, apple blossom, sweet pea, and for foliage.</p> + +<p>For the wild rose use the size having the two-inch bias. Gather +one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, draw down tight and fasten +the thread off. This rose requires five petals, and will look more +natural if two of the petals are of a darker shade than the other three. +For the center wrap a piece of tie wire around several yellow rose +stamens which may be bought at a millinery store, leaving the ends of +wire five or six inches long. Arrange the petals flat around this center +and sew in place. The petals should lie out flat, or nearly so. A bud +for this rose is made by folding a petal together after having gathered +it. The bud may be effectively finished by using two leaves of foliage, +placing one on either side, partially covering the bud and then +finishing with the wire or a small green rose cup. To finish with wire, +make a loop in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> center of a ten-inch piece of tie wire. To this loop +sew the bud. Twist the wire several times for an inch below the bud, +then turn one end of the wire back and twist it around the stem until +the bud is reached. Wind it several times over the base of the bud, draw +it tight and see that the wire is close together. This will make a +finish for the bud.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Foliage</span>—</p> + +<p>The rose foliage may be made if desired. Cut the leaves from green satin +or velvet, or color them green with water-color if a light-colored +material must be used. After cutting the pieces in the shape of rose +leaves (it will require two pieces for each leaf), lay one wrong side +up, cover with milliner's glue. Lay on the center of this a piece of tie +wire long enough for the stem. Place another leaf on this and press +together. When all the leaves are made after this method, arrange on a +long stem or wire, and if wound with brown gum tissue it will look very +natural.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Small wound rose of fabric</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch wide and four inches +long. Fold lengthwise through the middle. Turn the raw edges in on one +end,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges. Draw +the thread up to one inch and roll, beginning with the folded end, and +sew. A piece of tie wire may be glued inside the fold before gathering, +if desired. These little roses may be sewed on a stem or sewed to a +shaped piece of buckram which has been covered with silk. It may be in +the shape of a buckle or a circle and covered with these little roses in +several colors, pink, blue, and mauve. Sewed flat against a crown or on +a brim, they would trim a hat effectively.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Wired rose</span>—</p> + +<p>This rose, when carefully made, is most beautiful and sells for an +exorbitant price. To make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter +of a yard of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of velvet +cut on the bias. If the velvet is one or more shades darker, the result +will be more pleasing.</p> + +<p>The rose is fashioned from petals cut like the illustration. The first +three petals are cut from dimensions given in the illustration, two +inches long and one and three-quarters inches wide. The next five petals +should be one-quarter of an inch larger, and each succeeding row of five +petals should be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> one-quarter of an inch larger than the preceding one. +The last row of petals is to be made from the velvet. Cut a piece of the +tie wire long enough to reach around the outside edge of each petal, +plus one and one-half inches. Lay the petals down wrong side up, bend +the wire to the shape of the petal, lay the wire close to the edge and +turn the raw edge over the wire one-eighth of an inch and glue in place +with milliner's glue. Place a light weight on the petals until +thoroughly dry.</p> + +<p>Begin assembling the flower by first making a center from some of the +scraps left from the velvet, or yellow rose stamens may be used; fold +several small pieces into bud-like shapes of about one inch in length, +sew strongly and fasten on a loop of the wire six inches long. Keep the +point where all the petals are joined in as small a circumference as +possible. Begin with the three small petals, pleat them at the bottom +into as small a space as possible, and sew to the center with the wrong +side to the center. After they have been arranged, the edges may be +crinkled down somewhat. Add the remaining petals according to their +size. The last row of velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is +placed with the right side toward the center.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span><span class="smcap">Flat pasted blossom</span>—</p> + +<p>A conventional flower which makes a beautiful trimming may be made from +the pattern for the wired rose first given. Cut five petals (of any size +required) from velvet, and five the same size from silk or satin. Lay +the velvet petals wrong side up and cover with milliner's glue. Lay on +this a piece of tie wire one-quarter of an inch from the edge, allowing +an extension of ends of the wire at the bottom of the petal. Lay the +silk petal on top and press firmly. When dry arrange these five petals +around a cluster of yellow stamens, which have been fastened to a loop +of tie wire. This blossom should lie out flat when finished. Of course +the shape of the petals may be changed in any way desired.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Poinsettias</span>—</p> + +<p>The petals of this blossom are also pasted to a lining, the poinsettia +making a beautiful ornament. While a bright red is extremely lovely, a +black poinsettia is equally effective. The petals should be made of +velvet and lined with the same color in satin. These petals being +narrow, only need a wire through the center. After the petals have been +prepared,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow stamens or +knotted baby ribbon.</p> + +<p>The foliage is made from green velvet lined with green silk. The +accompanying illustration shows the proportion of both the petals of the +blossom and the foliage. The stems may be wound with green or brown gum +tissue.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Poppies</span>—</p> + +<p>Poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen inches long and two and +one-quarter inches wide. Cut two pieces five and one-half inches long. +This leaves one piece six inches long. This will make five petals. Cut +the ends round on the five and one-half inch pieces, and cut one end of +the six-inch piece round. Beginning at the center, close to edge, gather +with a small running stitch. Turn in the raw edges and draw the thread +sufficiently to make the rounded ends curl over one inch, and fasten off +the thread. These two long pieces make four petals. Pleat them very +close at the center, sew together, finish the single petal the same and +add it to the four petals. Knotted black baby ribbon or yellow stamens +or both will make a beautiful center.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span><span class="smcap">Morning glories</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. One quarter section of +this will be the pattern for a morning glory. The circle may be larger +if desired, but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used. +These dimensions are for a small blossom made of taffeta silk or +organdie. If made of velvet or heavy silk, the pattern should be much +larger.</p> + +<p>Lap the straight edges one-eighth of an inch in and paste in place. This +makes a cone. Cut a piece of tie wire six inches in length, lap one end +over several knots of yellow baby ribbon and twist securely. Push the +other end of wire through the cone from the inside and draw the knots +down into the point. Make a short bend in the wire at the lower point of +the blossom on the outside to prevent its slipping down on the wire. The +upper edge of the cone may be rolled over a piece of tie wire and pasted +if necessary; usually it stays in place without either sewing or +pasting. The edge should be stretched slightly. Organdie or taffeta silk +will stay rolled into place without the tie wire. Water color is used +most effectively on these flowers to make the shading as true to nature +as possible. If made of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> velvet they may be sewed down flat on a hat at +the side joining, when a large stamen of twisted ribbon or chenille may +be made to cover the joining in the cone.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Orchid</span>—</p> + +<p>This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron, or +wherever a touch of lavender is desired. It is effectively combined with +violets, or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals are +made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter inches wide and of the peculiar +pinkish lavender orchid shade. There are five petals in all—each calls +for seven inches of ribbon. If possible, three of the petals should be +one or two shades darker than the other two.</p> + +<p>Fold a seven-inch piece of ribbon (one and one-quarter inches wide) in +half with the right side out. Cut into shape like the illustration. +Stitch a seam along the curved edge one-eighth of an inch from the edge. +Twist a very small loop in one end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and +fasten up at folded end of the ribbon. Overhand this wire along the raw +edges, turn to the wrong side and sew the wire in with a one-eighth-inch +seam on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> wrong side. This makes a French seam. Now spread the petal +open flat, and push it up on the wire until the petal measures six +inches in length. Gather the raw ends and wind them tight to the wire. +Finish the other four petals the same way.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">No. 1 pattern for the center</span>—</p> + +<p>This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and +four inches in length. If possible this ribbon should be darker than the +darkest petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the ends and hem +them down. Gather along one edge and draw down close around the looped +end of a piece of tie wire in which a bunch of yellow stamens have been +fastened. The blossom should be arranged with the three darker petals +pointing up at the back of the center and the other two at the front +drooping.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">No. 2 pattern for the center</span>—</p> + +<p>This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half +inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with +the satin side out. At one end sew straight across, making a seam +one-eighth of an inch deep and turn.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> Cut the other end like the diagram +and sew this with the velvet side out, leaving a tiny space at the +bottom to insert the wire. This now looks something like a “Jack in the +Pulpit.” Twist a few yellow stamens in the end of a piece of seven-inch +tie wire and push the other end down through the little opening left at +the lower point and draw the stamens down in as low as desired. Make a +small, short loop in the tie wire close to the blossom to prevent its +slipping back down on the wire.</p> + +<p>Each year there are new developments in flower making, but the +principles are the same. If a few are mastered, there is usually very +little difficulty experienced in copying others which may appear from +year to year. Lovely flowers may be made from a few inches of hat braids +which are left over or from wool and raffia, maline or colored nets.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Blossoms of maline or net</span>—</p> + +<p>These may be made by using the same pattern as for the American Beauty +rose, selecting the size required. (See <a href="#image21">illustration</a>.) Lay a strip of +tie wire inside along the bias fold. Gather along the curved edge and +draw down tight. This brings the two ends of the tie wire together, and +they should be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> twisted lightly. Arrange four or five leaves around a +few yellow stamens. If green tie wire is used, it is not necessary to +wind the stems; otherwise brown gum tissue may be wound around the stem. +From this pattern many different blossoms may be made, varying it +slightly, such as rosebuds, sweet peas, and apple blossoms.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Sweet peas</span>—</p> + +<p>Cut four petals after the same pattern, making one about one and +one-half inches and two one inch, then a small one for the center, or a +few knots of baby ribbon may be used for the center. Arrange the petals +in a natural-looking blossom.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Violets</span>—</p> + +<p>No flower is more popular than the violet, and a cluster of handsome +violets make a most acceptable gift at any time.</p> + +<p>Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of an inch in width is +used. Begin by tying a knot one inch from the end, tie another one inch +from this knot; continue until there are five or six knots one inch +apart. In tying, try to keep the satin side of the ribbon out and make +as round a knot as possible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> +knot. Do not tie too tightly. A little practice is needed, but the +blossom is easily made. Hold the first knot between the thumb and +finger, bring the third knot up and place with it, then the fifth, and +so on, until the knots are all placed—usually three on one side, and +two or three on the other. Cut green tie wire six or seven inches long +for stems. Wind an inch of the end over the ribbon between these folded +knots and twist. Cut the ribbon off pointed, leaving one-half inch end.</p> + +<p>Two shades of ribbon may be used if desired. Sometimes a few yellow +stamens are fastened in with the wire or a few French knots in yellow +added at the center after the blossom is made, but neither is needed and +add but little to the beauty of this little blossom. Shape the petals up +around the center.</p> + +<p>The foliage for this flower can be bought, or made according to +directions given elsewhere. A spray of almost any foliage will do. A +small rosebud, a morning-glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of +violets will make it doubly charming.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Daisies</span>—</p> + +<p>Daisies may be made from one-quarter inch rib<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>bon, using as many petals +as desired. Cut the ribbon into two and one-half-inch lengths. Tie a +knot in the center. Sew the ends to a small, round piece of buckram. If +two rows of petals are used, the second row may be made one-quarter of +an inch shorter. The center may be covered with ready-made daisy centers +or a few French knots. The stem of wire is tacked to the buckram on the +back and may be wound with green floss.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Geraniums</span>—</p> + +<p>These flowers are made of geranium-colored satin ribbon. Use the same +method as in making violets, except that yellow stamens should always be +added.</p> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Fruit</span></p> + +<p class="heading" style="margin-top: 0em;"><span class="smcap">Apples</span>—</p> + +<p>The material required for making apples is cut into a circle of any size +desired and from any material. The edge should be turned in +one-sixteenth of an inch and gathered all around. Place this over a +piece of cotton batting, over which a piece of wire has been twisted, +leaving ends long enough for a stem. Add a sufficient amount of cotton +to fill the material out well. Draw the thread tight and sew.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> A stitch +may be caught through the center and pulled down, or a little tuft of +brown embroidery thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic +look. The apple may be tinted with water-color if desired. In that case +the entire apple should be moistened first and then the color applied +and allowed to dry.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Cherries</span>—</p> + +<p>These are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple—satin +or velvet would make a charming cluster. The method used is the same as +for the apple, except that there would be no stitch in the center. They +should also be filled until they are hard. Use tie wire for the stems.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Plums</span>—</p> + +<p>These may be made from a piece of plum-colored material on a true bias, +two and one-quarter inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Sew +the ends together on the wrong side. Turn, gather one end one-eighth of +an inch from the edge. Pull the thread up tight and sew. This makes the +“blow” end. Turn the lower edge in one-eighth of an inch and gather. +Fill with cotton to which a piece of tie<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> wire has been attached and +pull close to wire and sew. Add as much cotton as necessary to procure +the right shape before finishing.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Raisins</span>—</p> + +<p>These may be made from gathering a folded circle of plum-colored +material one-eighth of an inch from the edge, but used without filling +with cotton. Sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire with +brown gum tissue. Arrange in a cluster. Always warm the tissue before +using so that it will adhere.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Grapes</span>—</p> + +<p>These are made the same as cherries, except a cluster would have several +sizes. They are beautiful made from black velvet. A cluster of grapes to +sew flat to hat may be made by covering different sizes of button molds +and arranging them on a hat to look like a cluster.</p> + + +<p class="sectionhead"><span class="smcap">Mourning Millinery</span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Hats</span> worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of +black crêpe with a few folds of white crêpe near the face. The covering +of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> crêpe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the +soft appearance desired. The trimming is of milliner's folds or flat +flowers made of the <span class="nowrap">crêpe.<a name="FNanchor_98-1_4" id="FNanchor_98-1_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_98-1_4" class="fnanchor">98-1</a></span> The mourning veils used may have a +simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. The applied hem is +much the handsomer finish.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Applied hem on a veil</span>—</p> + +<p>For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long +enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each +corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a +rectangular veil.</p> + +<p>Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running +stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat. Measure this +strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place where the fold must be +mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from this fold to within +one-quarter of an inch of the fold. Cut through both thicknesses. Sew +these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the +result will be a mitred corner. Each corner should be carefully planned +and mitred before sewing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately. Slip the +edge of the veil between, pin carefully in place, baste and slipstitch +the edges to the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same time. If +this work is carefully done, the result more than repays the time spent +upon it.</p> + +<p>The veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any +becoming way. It may form part of the covering of the hat, and is then +arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any +desired length. It makes a becoming background for the face. Mourning +millinery is not used as much as formerly, but those who desire to +adhere to the custom will find the style little changed.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_98-1_4" id="Footnote_98-1_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98-1_4"><span class="label">98-1</span></a> See <a href="#CHAPTER_IX">chapter on “Flowers.”</a></p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h2 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 0em;">REMODELING AND RENOVATING</h2> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Straw shapes</span>—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Brim</span>—Brush well to remove all the dust. If the brim is too wide, a few +rows of braid may be removed from the edge, and the edge refinished with +one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color. If it seems +necessary to use an edge wire, this last row of braid may be made to +cover it, or a bias fold of satin, silk, velvet, or ribbon may be sewed +over the wire.</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Crown</span>—When the crown of a straw hat is found to be too low for the +present style, the crown may be ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of +buckram sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed back to the +brim. Of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram. If +the crown is too high, a few rows of braid may be removed at the bottom +of the crown, enough to give the desired height.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span><span class="smcap">To put a straw hat into shape</span>—</p> + +<p>If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it +only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory +results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A +rounded crown can be made flat on top, and a slightly rolling brim can +be made into a straight brim by using this method. It is a joy to take +an old, discarded, battered straw hat and make it into a fresh-looking +and up-to-date hat, a piece of work which any one may well be proud of.</p> + +<p>Cut from a piece of heavy cardboard the exact shape and size of which +the crown top is to be made. Cut another the exact height of the crown +and long enough to fit around the head, allowing the ends to just meet. +Sew these pieces of cardboard together which will make a crown the exact +shape you wish. Dampen the straw crown sufficiently to make it very +pliable and pull it into shape over this cardboard crown. Turn the crown +upside down on a flat surface and place a weight in the crown. A +flatiron or a small stone jar will make a good weight. Bind the outside +firmly and smoothly with a cloth, pin in place, and leave to dry. After +it is thoroughly dry, remove the cloth, and before re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>moving it from the +block, cover with a coating or two of some good coloring which may be +bought for the purpose. This can be procured in several colors, but must +be put on with a stiff brush and rubbed in well in order to produce an +even shade.</p> + +<p>If the brim is rolling and is to be made flat, dampen it thoroughly, +press it down flat on a smooth surface, and cover with weights; leave +until dry, when a few coats of coloring may be applied. If the brim is +separate from the crown, the hat may be completely changed by slipping +the brim down over the crown, leaving it an inch or so from the bottom +on one side or in the back, making a bandeau which lends itself to +trimming of flowers, ribbons, or malines. In this case the bottom of the +crown would require a wire sewed on at the edge to keep it in shape. If +a high luster is desired, a coating of shellac may be applied the last +thing before trimming.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Light straw hats</span>—</p> + +<p>Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of soap and water or +gasoline. If the hat is in need of bleaching, sulphur and water may be +used, or a commercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to use +according to printed directions. Two or three<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> coatings of coloring will +change the color. Pleasing results are sometimes obtained by using two +different colors, one over the other. This, of course, requires +experience and should be tried out before using on a hat.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">When straw is to be re-sewed</span>—</p> + +<p>Rip carefully from the foundation; brush and press carefully. Some straw +will not stand dampening, so try out a small piece first. Place it on a +heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Panama hats</span>—</p> + +<p>It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to a good professional +cleaner. A Panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of +an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material, such as georgette or +crêpe de chine, finished off at the edge over a wire. The facing may be +put on top of the brim if desired. The entire crown is sometimes changed +by covering it with a figured chiffon drawn down tightly and finished at +the bottom with a band and bow of ribbon.</p> + +<p>Another change might be made by covering the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> entire crown with flower +petals sewed down flat and intermingled with green leaves. They should +then be covered with a layer or more of maline. This is a good way to +use up old flowers. The flowers will stand a lot of retouching with +color when they are veiled.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Old buckram frames</span>—</p> + +<p>When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove +all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of +cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A +break in buckram is difficult to remove; however, if new material is not +available, much may be done with the old. Do not remove the headsize +wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed.</p> + +<p>If the headsize wire is too large or too small, now is the time to +change it. If the general shape of the brim is to be changed, remove the +edge wire and trim to the required width. If it is to droop or roll, +slash the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire and lap +one-quarter of an inch at the edge. Slash in several places if +necessary. Sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with +a strip of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>If a brim is to be made more flat or flaring, slash and add V-shaped +pieces of buckram. If the headsize is entirely too large, this may be +remedied by dividing the brim into halves. Remove the headsize wire and +the edge wire, cutting through from front to back. Lap and sew; make the +headsize wire the required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the outer +edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The same thing may be done to +the crown. If too large, divide into halves and lap the edges until it +is the required size, or a piece of material may be added to make the +crown larger. The crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base, +or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When a +fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old +covering, but it can sometimes be done.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Blocking over wire frames</span>—</p> + +<p>If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it may be done by blocking +over a wire frame made for the purpose. The wire frame should have six +sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one inch apart, shaped +as desired. Old or new buckram, neteen, or any coarse material which has +been heav<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>ily starched, may be used. Wet the fabric thoroughly with warm +water.</p> + +<p>Block the crown first. Place the material over the crown and pull it +down until all the wrinkles are removed, pin closely to the headsize +wire all around. When dry, mark with a pencil all around close to the +headsize wire, remove from the frame, cut on the pencil mark and sew a +headsize wire on the edge. If there are marks of the wire to be removed, +hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly with a hot +iron. The brim is managed in the same way. Mark at the headsize, cut off +at this point one-half inch inside the mark, and sew a headsize wire on +the pencil mark. Mark at the edge wire, cut off at the pencil mark, and +finish with edge wire.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">New brims for old crowns</span>—</p> + +<p>If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the +wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any +fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette—an old, +half-worn waist will do nicely, using the back or sleeves, or any +portions that are not too badly worn. When a heavier crown is used, the +edge of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> the crown +sewed at the edge, or a row of straw when the crown is of straw braid.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Felt and beaver hats</span>—</p> + +<p>When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. To restore the gloss, rub +the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a +small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To complete the process, remove +the sandpaper and substitute a piece of velvet. Rub this on a hot iron, +then on beeswax. Continue the operation of rubbing the hat with the nap +until it is restored to its original freshness. The crown must be packed +with cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do satisfactory +work. If the brim of a felt or beaver hat needs cutting down at the +edge, mark with a piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut. Sew on +this line with an unthreaded sewing machine several times, and the felt +will be cut through and the edge broken off at this point. This looks +much better than when cut with shears or with a knife.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Renovation of hat coverings and linings</span>—</p> + +<p>To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well to remove the dust. +With the wrong side down, hold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> it over the spout of a tea-kettle of +rapidly boiling water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it +is passed back and forth over the steam. The great force of the steam +will raise the pile much more quickly than the method of using a damp +cloth over a hot iron. If the velvet after steaming is found to be still +too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain, it may be gathered a +half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the brim, or it +may be mirrored by ironing on the right side with a hot iron, always +ironing lightly one way, using a sweeping motion. Do not let the iron +rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">To freshen crêpe for mourning millinery</span>—</p> + +<p>Brush the crêpe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline +if necessary. Crêpe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly +and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot +iron passed over it without touching it, but near enough so that a +slight amount of steam will dampen the crêpe. Remove the cloth and allow +the crêpe to dry in place. Crêpe becomes shabby-looking quickly if not +given the best of care.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span><span class="smcap">Cleaning, curling, and tinting feathers</span>—</p> + +<p>To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few +spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times +until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air +till dry. A very light-colored or white feather may be tinted by +dissolving some oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing.</p> + +<p>To curl, draw the flues, a very few at a time, over a blunt knife. A +plume is rather difficult to sew on a hat and produce the desired +effect. The end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat, while +the tip of the plume should not be sewed close to the hat, otherwise it +will look stiff.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Ribbons</span>—</p> + +<p>If soiled, they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap and water, using a +brush. Do not rub or wring. Hang up to drip dry, or wind tightly around +a bottle and leave to dry. Do not press until after twenty-four hours, +if cleaned in gasoline. To produce extra stiffness, rinse in a weak +solution of sugar and water. It is also very easy to change the color of +ribbons by using any of the commercial cold dyes.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span><span class="smcap">Flowers</span>—</p> + +<p>If flowers are faded, they may be touched up with water-color. If they +are pink, rouge may be used effectively. If the edges are much frayed, +trim them slightly with the shears. Green leaves may be dipped in hot +paraffine to restore their gloss, or pressed with a warm iron without +paraffine. Even very imperfect flowers may be made to look well if +veiled with maline or georgette.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Quills</span>—</p> + +<p>Quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and +finger on which a small amount of vaseline or oil has been placed. A +quill may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea-kettle of +rapidly boiling water. Place a dull knife on the underside and press the +quill hard enough to make a sharp dent. Do this every half inch. If the +quill is sufficiently steamed this may be accomplished easily, and the +result is permanent.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Wings</span>—</p> + +<p>Loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline +or a hair net of the same color. Wings may be covered with a coat of +shellac<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy look.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Lace</span>—</p> + +<p>Most laces may be washed in warm, soapy water. Press gently in the +hands—do not rub. Press the water out after having rinsed the lace well +in warm water. Shake gently and pin down smoothly on a sheet, being +careful to stretch and pin each scallop in place. Allow it to dry. If +necessary press slightly with a warm iron on the wrong side. Some laces +are greatly improved by pressing.</p> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap">Malines</span>—</p> + +<p>Malines may be used to good advantage, even if parts are badly worn and +faded. Place a thin, damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron. +Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board.</p> + + +<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 3em;">THE END</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div style="background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;"> +<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">The following typographical errors were corrected.</p> + +<table style="margin-left: 0%;" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="typos"> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">18</td> + <td><span class="smcap">To cover side crown</span> changed to <span class="smcap">To cover side crown</span>—</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">108</td> + <td><span class="smcap">crepe</span> changed to <span class="smcap">crêpe</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">110</td> + <td><span class="smcap">Wings</span> changed to <span class="smcap">Wings</span>—</td> +</tr> +</table> + +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 19740-h.txt or 19740-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740">http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/7/4/19740</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9da930c --- /dev/null +++ b/19740-h/images/image21.jpg diff --git a/19740.txt b/19740.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1382ca7 --- /dev/null +++ b/19740.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3189 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Make Your Own Hats, by Gene Allen Martin, +Illustrated by E. E. Martin + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Make Your Own Hats + + +Author: Gene Allen Martin + + + +Release Date: November 8, 2006 [eBook #19740] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS*** + + +E-text prepared by Jason Isbell, Julia Miller, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 19740-h.htm or 19740-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740/19740-h/19740-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740/19740-h.zip) + + + + + +Transcriber's note + + Obvious printer's errors have been corrected. A list of + corrections is found at the end of the text. + + + + +MAKE YOUR OWN HATS + +by + +GENE ALLEN MARTIN + +Director of Domestic Arts Department of +the Minneapolis Y.W.C.A.; Designer, Demonstrator +and Instructor in Millinery + +Illustrated by E. E. Martin + + + + + + + +[Illustration] + + + +Boston and New York +Houghton Mifflin Company +The Riverside Press Cambridge + +Copyright, 1921, by Gene Allen Martin +All Rights Reserved +The Riverside Press +Cambridge . Massachusetts +Printed in the U.S.A. + + + + +FOREWORD + + +Hat-making is an art which may be acquired by any one possessing +patience and ordinary ability. To make a hat for the trade is not as +difficult as to make one for an individual; neither is it so high a +phase of art. + +Many rules are given for crown-height, brim-width, and color, as being +suited to different types of faces, but they are so often misleading +that it seems best to consider only a few, since the becomingness of a +hat almost invariably depends upon minor characteristics of the +individual for which there are no rules. + +A girl or woman with auburn hair may wear grays--gray-green, cream +color, salmon pink; a touch of henna with gold or orange; mulberry if +the eyes are dark. + +The woman with dark hair and blue or dark eyes may wear any color if the +skin is clear. + +One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin may find golden brown, a +pale yellow or cream color becoming--possibly a mulberry if just the +right depth. A hat with slightly drooping brim faced with some shade of +rose will add color to the cheeks. No reds should be worn unless the +skin is clear. No shade of purple or heliotrope should be worn by any +one having blue eyes--it seems to make the blue paler. + +Any one having auburn hair, blue eyes, and a clear skin may wear browns, +grays, greens, tan, blue, and black. Black should not be worn next the +face unless the skin is brilliant. It is, however, very becoming to +blondes, and to women whose hair has become quite white. + +A black hat is almost a necessity in every woman's wardrobe, and it may +always be made becoming by using a facing of some color which is +especially becoming to the wearer--black and white is always a smart +combination, but very difficult to handle. + +In regard to lines--it is known that a hat with a drooping brim takes +from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having +round shoulders or a short neck. A hat turned up at the back would be +much better. A narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer. A +woman with a short, turned-up nose should avoid a hat turned up too +sharply from the face. Short people should avoid very wide brims. For +the possessor of a very full, round face the high crown and narrow brim, +or a brim which turns up sharply against the crown on one side, or all +around, should prove becoming. A tall, slender woman would do well to +wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keeping with her height. +There is one style of hat which seems to be, with various modifications, +universally becoming, and that is the bicorne, a form of the Napoleon +style of hat. + +After all, experience is the best teacher. Whenever a hat is found to be +especially becoming, one would do well to find out just why it is so and +make a note of the color, size, and general outline. These notes are of +value if kept for future reference, whether hats are to be made for the +shop or for home millinery. + +A hat is seldom becoming all the way around, but the aim should be to +make it so. Over-ornamentation should be guarded against, also too close +harmony in color until much experience has been gained. A rule by which +to judge of the becomingness of a hat and to which there is no exception +is this--the hat must enhance your looks. If you do not look more +pleasing with it on than with it off, it is not as good a model for you +as it might be. + +In planning or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors +and outlines which are an outward expression of ourselves. A hat, as +well as any article of clothing, may express many things--dejection, +happiness, decision, indecision, gayety, dignity, graciousness, a +trained or an untrained mind, forethought, refinement, generosity, +cruelty, or recklessness. How often we hear some one say, "That hat +looks just like Mrs. Blank!" Clothing of any kind is an index to the +personality of the wearer. A friend once said in my presence to a +saleswoman who was trying to sell her a hat, "But I do not _feel_ like +that hat!" The saleswoman replied, "That's just it--you refuse to buy it +because you do not _feel_ like it, while I tell you that it is most +becoming." All of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most +remote idea of what was meant, and had a total lack of understanding. + +Clothes _should_ be a matter of "feeling," and this same feeling is +something vital and should be catered to if our garments are to help +set our spirits free. Why should we wear anything which is misleading in +regard to ourselves? Let us look in the mirror each day and ask +ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are. + +It is important in planning a hat to see it in broad daylight as well as +under artificial light. It should also be tried on in a good light while +_standing_ before a mirror, as a hat which may seem becoming while +sitting may not be so while standing, with the whole figure taken into +consideration. + +To make one's own hats, using up old materials, stimulates originality +and gives opportunity for expression. It is amazing to see how many new +ideas are born when we start out to do something which we have thought +quite impossible. It all helps to give added zest to life. Making one's +own hats appeals to the constructive instinct of every woman aside from +the matter of thrift, which should always be taken into consideration. +Some one will say, "I would not wear any hat I might make." How often +have we worn unbecoming hats, poor in workmanship, besides paying some +one handsomely for the privilege. Let us try to form some standard by +which to judge of the worth of a hat instead of the maker's name. + +Before making a hat, the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over +to see with what the hat must be worn, and the kind of service we are +going to expect from it. Every article of a costume should be related +and harmonious as to color, outline, and suitability. The result should +be a perfect whole without a single discord. How often we see a green +skirt, mustard-colored coat, and a bright blue hat--each article +pleasing by itself, but atrocious when worn collectively. Bright, gay +little hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon tire of one if it +must be worn daily. + +Time and our best thought are well spent in planning our apparel. The +proper clothing gives us confidence and self-respect, and the respect of +others. To be well dressed is to be free from the thought of clothes. We +judge and are judged by the clothes we wear--they are an outward +expression of ourselves, and speak for us, while we must remain silent. + +"Simplicity is the keynote of beauty"--no one article of clothing should +stand out too conspicuously, unless it _is_ the hat. Nature uses bright +colors sparingly. If you look at a plant, you find it dark near the +ground, growing lighter near the top with its green leaves, and then the +blossom; the glory is at the _top_. Everything in nature teaches us to +_look up_. So the hat should be the crowning glory of a costume, the +center of interest, and should receive the most careful attention as to +becomingness, suitability, and workmanship. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + I. EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS 1 + + II. COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET 15 + + III. FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE 31 + + IV. WIRE FRAMES 35 + + V. ROUND CROWN OF WIRE 44 + + VI. HAT COVERINGS 54 + + VII. TRIMMINGS 68 + + VIII. HAND-MADE FLOWERS 78 + + IX. REMODELING AND RENOVATING 100 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN + PLACE 4 + + SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM 16 + + SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO SEW IN + PLACE 16 + + VARIOUS PROCESSES 36 + + FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID 44 + + ROLLING WIRE BRIM 44 + + ROUND CROWN OF WIRE 44 + + ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN PLACE 54 + + SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN 64 + + RIBBON TRIMMINGS 72 + + HAND-MADE FLOWERS 78 + + + + +MAKE YOUR OWN HAT + + +CHAPTER I + +EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS + + +EQUIPMENT + + Thimble + Thread + Needles + Tape-measure + Pins + Tailor's chalk or pencil + Milliner's pliers or wire cutters + Scissors, large and small + Paper for patterns + +_Thimble_--good quality + +_Thread_--Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Colored thread as +needed. + +_Needles_--assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 to 10. + +_Tape-measure_--of good quality sateen. + +_Tailor's chalk_--white and dark blue. + +_Milliner's pliers_--pliers which fit the hand, not too heavy, with +blunt points, and sharp enough to cut a thread. + + +MATERIALS USED TO MAKE HAT FRAMES + +_Fabrics_-- + + Buckram + Crinoline + Cape net + Neteen or Fly net + Willow plate + +_Wires_-- + + Cable + Frame or brace wire + Lace + Tie + Ribbon + Sprung + +_Paper for patterns_-- + + Heavy manila + + +BUCKRAM-- + +Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff +material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more +commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a +summer buckram, lighter in weight and smooth on both sides. + + +CRINOLINE-- + +Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff, thin, +open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire +frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the +fabric frame. + + +NETEEN OR FLY NET-- + +A stiff open-meshed material--comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard +wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and +lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being +much softer than when made with buckram. Very durable. + + +CAPE NET-- + +A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft +frames. Not as pliable as neteen. + + +WILLOW PLATE-- + +A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very +expensive, used in blocking; frames are also made from it without +blocking. + +Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs. + + +WIRE comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and is covered with +cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. It may be procured in single and +double bolts. + + +CABLE-- + +Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as +edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame +wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame +design, if it is to be covered with sheer material. + + +FRAME OR BRACE WIRE-- + +Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric +hat frames. + + +LACE-- + +Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and +sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is +desired. + +[Illustration: SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES +BASTED IN PLACE] + + +TIE-- + +Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on spools. Is used +to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black, +white, and green. + + +RIBBON-- + +A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire +woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire +ribbons. + + +SPRUNG-- + +An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on +edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or +if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge +wire on wire frames. + + + +HAT FRAMES OF FABRIC + +Much care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame +of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made +no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step +of the way. The frame is the first step, and so the most important. + +The simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square +crown, covered with velvet. Such a model we will take up at first. + + +SAILOR HAT FRAME-- + +For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim, +three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of +crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and +one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inches. + + +PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and +one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded +into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased. + +A round brim will not be of equal width all around from headsize wire, +because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head. The front and +back will both be about an inch narrower than the sides. + + +HEADSIZE WIRE-- + +TO MEASURE--This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this +measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation +wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat +is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the +ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which +goes up into the headsize.[7-1] + +As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame +wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just +mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire.[7-2] +Wire always laps one inch--no more, no less. + +TO SHAPE--With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated +to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part +of the head. + +TO LOCATE HEADSIZE ON PATTERN--Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on +pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front +of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark +all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper +one-half inch inside this mark. + +TO CUT BUCKRAM BRIM--Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut +the edges very smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of +center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press +the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp +bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily +repaired. + +TO SEW HEADSIZE WIRE TO BRIM--First note the relation of headsize wire +to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half +inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance +of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire, +the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on +each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on +smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each +side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring +needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take +stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right +side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back +to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten +thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in +order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram +inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes +small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be +tried on and changes made if necessary. + + +EDGE WIRE-- + +This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge +of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim +as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire +to conform to shape of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to +hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward +you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as +possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting +stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the +depth of the wire. If too shallow, the wire will slip off over the edge, +or, if too deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it +unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking. A frame must +be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when +finished. + +TO COVER EDGE WIRE--All edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a +cheap muslin. Cut a strip of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of +an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the strip. Bind the edge +wire with it, holding it very tight. Sew close to wire using a stab +stitch. + + +RIGHT SIDE--WRONG SIDE-- + +This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a +short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch +at finish, but do not turn ends under. + + +SQUARE CROWN-- + +A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded, +with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type +three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and +one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made +separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire +on the brim at the base. To eliminate any slashes or seams in the side +crown, a paper pattern should be made. Following paragraphs explain how +this is done. + +PATTERN FOR SLANTING SIDE CROWN-- + +Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and +one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper +in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of +bottom, then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch, or +about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap +ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on +brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to +see if any alterations are necessary. It can be decided at this point +and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight. An +amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and +curves that are becoming. Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top +and bottom any irregularities on the edge. + + +TO CUT SIDE CROWN FROM BUCKRAM-- + +Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay +pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to +take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends +one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine back stitch close to each edge; this +makes two rows of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom +of side crown, keeping all joining at back. Use same method as in sewing +edge wire on brim. Cover both wires with crinoline. + + +CROWN TIPS-- + +The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of +buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given. + +SOFT CROWN TIP--First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim, +which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the +crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a very +little, and sew with stab stitch close under wire. Cut surplus material +off to one-fourth inch. + +STIFF CROWN TIP, MADE OF BUCKRAM--Lay top of side crown on smooth side +of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half inch +outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip, +it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the +pencil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch apart. Cut them +close to the line drawn. Pin this piece on top of crown, press flaps +down and sew on with stab stitch. + + +CROWNS-- + +If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent +separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is +purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill +has been acquired by the student of millinery, a round crown of fabric +may be blocked by hand over a wire crown. + + +TO COVER ROUND CROWN-- + +Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight +of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch +below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this +stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of material, using same method +and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew +the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this +bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom +of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in +finishing edge of facing on brim.[13-1] This makes a neat finish for a +hat which will demand little trimming. If the amateur finds it too +difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, the edge may +be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon; the top may also +be finished by a narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire should +be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 7-1: To cut wire see chapter IV.] + +[Footnote 7-2: To tie wire see chapter IV.] + +[Footnote 13-1: See chapter II.] + + + + +CHAPTER II + +COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET + + +Material required one and one-half yards milliner's velvet or any velvet +eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. If velvet used is thirty-six inches +wide, one yard will be sufficient. + + +TO COVER BRIM-- + +Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side (smooth side). +Edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet +over edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right angles to brim to +avoid marring the velvet. Pin closely all around edge of brim, pulling +material with the thread to remove any fullness. Do not pull tight +enough to bend the brim. Trim velvet off one-fourth inch to turn under +brim. Baste close to headsize wire on top with stab stitch. Cut velvet +out inside of headsize wire, leaving a half inch to slash and turn up +with the buckram. + + +TO SEW VELVET EDGE TO BRIM-- + +This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side, +being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It +is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in +from the edge about one-fourth inch with the sewing machine, using a +long stitch. This stitching may then be used to put the needle through +when sewing the velvet down. If the velvet seems thick and heavy-looking +on under side after sewing, it may be pressed down with a hot iron. If +done quickly and lightly, it will not show on the right side. + +[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM] + + +TO FACE UNDER SIDE OF BRIM-- + +Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of +brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around +edge, leaving a little _less_ than one-fourth inch to turn under. +Facings are usually finished at the edge with a wire. Cut a piece of +frame wire the exact circumference of the brim, plus one inch for lap. +Bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of velvet, beginning at the +center back. Roll velvet over wire and bring out to edge. Pin in place +all the way around before beginning to sew. Place pins in at right +angles to brim. A piece of velvet held in the left hand will prevent +finger marks from showing on the velvet. Begin to sew at left of wire +joining, while holding underside of brim towards you. Bring needle +through from back close under wire. With the head of the needle press +velvet along under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the thread +of the next stitch. Take nearly a half-inch stitch by placing needle +close under the wire and coming through between the wire and the upper +facing. Come back under the wire with a very small back stitch, being +careful to adjust the wire as you sew, and to catch a little of the +upper covering with each back stitch. When wire joining is reached, +treat the lapped ends as one wire. Fasten ends securely by taking +several small back stitches. Lace wire, being smaller than frame wire, +is sometimes used to finish the edge of facing. It does not look as +heavy, but is somewhat more difficult for a beginner to handle. + +[Illustration: SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO +SEW IN PLACE] + + +TO COVER CROWN TOP-- + +To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front, same +shape as top of crown plus one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch +from edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in place, and sew +with stab stitch over line of gathering. Make the edge lie as flat as +possible and do not draw velvet too tight across the top. + + +TO COVER SIDE CROWN-- + +Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than +height of crown. Pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find +length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of +material with warp thread. (Warp thread is parallel with selvage.) +Remove velvet and stitch seam. Open it and press by drawing it over the +edge of a hot iron. + + +TO SEW CROWN ON BRIM-- + +The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before +adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of +crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim +and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wire. Stretch the velvet strip for +side crown on the crown, placing seam at back, unless trimming has been +planned which will cover the seam better if it is placed at some other +point. Turn top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown, and press +bottom fold down close to brim. If this band has been fitted tight +enough, it will not be found necessary to sew it. + + +EDGE OF BRIM FACING, WHEN FINISHED WITHOUT WIRE-- + +A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath +without a wire, the edges being slipstitched together. In this case, the +underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place +all the way around before beginning to sew. Bring the needle through +from underside of facing to the very edge of fold. Place point of needle +directly opposite this stitch and take a small stitch in upper facing, +then take a small stitch in underfacing. Each stitch always begins just +opposite the ending of preceding stitch, so that the thread between the +two facings crosses the seam at right angles to edge of brim. This +method makes the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out of +place; however, this style of finishing an edge is not popular and +requires much practice. + + +TO COVER NARROW BRIM SAILOR WITHOUT AN EDGE SEAM-- + +This method can be used satisfactorily only when the brim is narrow, +and the fabric pliable. For convenience we will give measurements as for +a two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge measuring forty +inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet forty inches long and seven inches +wide. Fold this velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins every +three inches through edge of fold at right angles to edge and close to +edge. This is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the +brim. If the velvet is not placed evenly, there will be found a greater +amount of fullness on one side than on the other. Place velvet over the +brim and pin on edge at points marked by pins. Stretch as tight as +possible. On a brim of this width all of the fullness should be worked +out. If this is found to be very difficult, lay the brim aside, with the +velvet pinned on, for an hour or for overnight, and the velvet will be +found to give a little more. Remove as much of the length as possible. +Locate seam, remove from frame, sew seam, and replace as before. Sew on +top close to headsize wire, working out all the fullness possible; pull +under part up into headsize. Sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire +onto the flaps, being careful not to pull the thread too tight or the +headsize wire will be reduced in size. + + +FACINGS-- + +A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing +on a black hat. The entire facing may be of a contrasting color or +extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the +brim. In this case there could be a strip of material the same as upper +facing an inch and a half wide finished at the edge of the brim with a +wire. Then the colored facing would be finished over the edge of this +with another wire. + + +BRIMS COVERED WITH TWO KINDS OF FABRIC-- + +A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics, +which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of +old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the +same time have much charm. For instance, the edge of the hat could have +a bias band of satin, two or more inches wide, stretched around the edge +of the brim, with the rest of the brim covered with velvet overlapping +the satin and finished with a wire both on top and bottom, or only on +one side. Underside of brim may be finished the same way, or the facing +may be brought out even with the edge and finished with a wire. + + +SHAPED BRIM FOUNDATION-- + +The simplest _shaped_ brim is the mushroom style. + + +TO MAKE PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure +the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the +head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim +droop, slash the pattern from the edge to the headsize wire in four +different places equally distant. Lap these slashes one-fourth inch at +the edge, and pin. The pattern may also be slashed in eight or more +different places if desired, the slashes being adjusted by lapping more +or less according to the amount of droop which may be becoming. + +After the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark with a pencil all +around just inside the headsize wire. Remove the wire and cut the paper +on this line. Cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat on smooth side +of buckram, leaving pins in slashes. Cut close to outside edge and allow +one-fourth inch for the lap at ends. Mark on buckram with pencil close +to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside this mark. Lap ends +one-fourth inch and backstitch closely at each edge of flap. Sew a +strip of crinoline flat over seam to smooth it up. Sew headsize wire on +place marked, which will be one-half inch from inside edge. Keep all +joinings at back. Slash buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every +half inch. Wire edge of brim and cover wire with crinoline--same method +as used on sailor brim. + + +TO COVER A MUSHROOM-SHAPED BRIM-- + +If not very drooping, it may be covered without making a seam in the +material. To do this, begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top +at the front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, always +pulling with the thread of the material, and pin closely at edge, with +pins at right angles to the brim. If covered with georgette, satin or +silk, which is pliable, the fullness may all be worked out without a +seam. Baste close to headsize wire and finish edge by following same +method as used in finishing sailor brim. Also follow same method with +facing. If the material used is not pliable, or if the brim is too +drooping to admit of stretching the material smoothly, a seam must be +made at the back. The method would be the same as used in covering the +rolled brim. + + +SHEER MATERIALS-- + +In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, it is advisable to line +with some other material first. The color could be made deeper by using +a lining of the same color, or made paler by lining with white. The +lining should be fitted and sewed on with the outside material. + + +PATTERN FOR HAT WITH ROLLED OR CLOSE-FITTING BRIM-- + +The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The +headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on. +The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge, +the slashes lapped over and pinned. If the hat is to be rolled more +closely on one side than on the other, the greater number of slashes +must be placed there. In this way the pattern can be adjusted to any +desired shape. It is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern +through in the back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay out flat on +another piece of paper for a new pattern. This eliminates some of the +slashes and makes further experiments easier. Pattern-making is very +important, and it is of extreme value to make as many patterns as +possible before cutting the foundation fabric. Changing a pattern the +slightest sometimes makes a great deal of difference in its +becomingness. Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or two +in the buckram, or by inserting a V shape to give more flare, but the +fewer seams the better for the hat frame. A rolled or close-fitting brim +is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom shape. + + +TO COVER A CLOSE-FITTING OR ROLLED BRIM-- + +Place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge. +Always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first +lesson. Draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin. Work the +material out smoothly toward the left and pin at the edge; also at the +headsize wire. Then proceed in the same way toward the right, always +pinning closely. Be _sure_ to keep the material tight and smooth both at +edge and at the headsize wire. Allow the fullness to go where it will. +The seam should be located at the center back. Cut away all superfluous +material, allowing three-eighths of an inch seam at the center back. +Turn the raw edges under away from each other at the seam and +slipstitch together neatly. + + +TO SLIPSTITCH SEAM-- + +Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle +through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along +in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the +edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the +fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly +opposite the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the material out from +inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for +something else. Examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits +perfectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the +outside; remove all pins as soon as possible. After basting this, you +will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at +the edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down +with an overcasting stitch. + + +TO GLUE VELVET TO THE BRIM-- + +When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult +to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we +resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric +thinner than velvet, or on any frame other than buckram. Care should +always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when the +velvet is to be glued on. + +After fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the seam in the back, +remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the +headsize where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the +buckram. The glue must be spread very evenly. It will make a neater job +to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further. Be very +careful to keep the glue away from the right side of the velvet. Next, +rub the glue on the frame with a stiff brush until it is smooth, then +spread the velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it with the +hands from the headsize wire out. Watch it carefully for any places +which have not sufficient glue, as the material may be raised before it +is dry and more glue added. Do not sew the edge until the glue has +dried. Usually it is only the material on the upper side of the brim +which needs gluing down. The facing may be put on as desired. Sometimes +the top of a crown has indentations, and then the velvet may be glued to +stay in place. + +The under or outer facing may be fitted to a rolled or close-fitting +brim more easily than the upper. Beginning at the front with the corner +of the material, pin at the edge and at the headsize wire. Keep the +material smooth; work from right to left, and then from left to right. +Work the material around to where the seam is to be made. Cut away all +superfluous material, allowing three-eighths of an inch for a seam. +Slipstitch together as on the top and finish the edge over wire. +Whenever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material. + + +A SHIRRED CROWN OF FABRIC-- + +There are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which +taffeta, satin, georgette, or velvet may be used. Velvet is especially +beautiful made up in this way. The first method is the preferred. Cut a +circular piece of material, having a diameter the length of the crown +from front to back, measuring over the top from the headsize wire, plus +four inches. + +On the wrong side of the material mark circles (concentric) one-half +inch apart, after first having marked a circle in the center about three +inches in diameter. Gather on the line of each circle with a fine +running stitch and bring the thread through to the right side as each +circle is completed. + +Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut a small hole at this +point. Pull thread of the smallest circle up tight. This will form a bag +which should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the +crown top and sewed securely in place. The material should be pinned +down at four equal points at the edge of the crown, the threads of the +other circles pulled up until the material fits the crown snugly. Adjust +the fullness evenly and sew in place. This is an excellent way to use up +old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects. + +The second method does not make as pleasing an effect, but may be used +when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be +cut from it. A bias strip about eight inches wide and long enough to +reach around the crown, plus three or four inches, should be joined on +the lengthwise thread of the material. The first shirring or gathering +should be one-half inch from the edge, the additional threads should be +run in evenly every half inch. The first thread near the edge should +then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the +hole in the top of the crown. This method will require a somewhat larger +opening than the first. The material is then drawn down on the outside +and pinned to the bottom of the crown; the threads are then pulled tight +and firm and are fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly and sew in +place. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE + + +Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where +the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same +allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double +to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on +another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie +parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same +size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with +fine thread, making one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for +this as a coarse thread might show through the covering. + + +TO JOIN THE SEAM IN THE BACK-- + +Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely. +This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a +strip of crinoline to smooth it up. + + +TO SEW EDGE WIRE ON NETEEN-- + +It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained, +however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge +first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken +in handling neteen to preserve the shape, as it is very easily stretched +and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same method +is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame. The +velvet, if velvet is used, can be glued on, but the material is so +porous that it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline make +excellent foundations for braid hats, as these materials are light in +weight, soft, and pliable. They are also very satisfactory for +children's hats. + + +TO MAKE A TURBAN FRAME OF NETEEN OR CRINOLINE-- + +Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height +desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement +plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which +is usually more becoming. Join the ends of bias strips on the warp +thread. + + +TO WIRE TURBAN FLARE-- + +Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to +stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two +inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom, +stretching the fabric to fit if a flare is desired. A roll may be made +by slightly fulling the fabric on to the wire, which must be smaller +than for a flare. If the side of the crown is to be curved in slightly, +this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and +the bottom, drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin the tape +and sew in place. Sew another wire high enough above the tape to make +the crown the required height. If the crown is to be flared a little at +top, sew the wire inside and stretch the material as much as desired. If +the top of the crown is to be drawn in, sew the wire on the outside, +making the crown slightly smaller at the top. If sufficient material is +allowed at the top the extra amount may be drawn up over a small circle +of wire to make the crown top, but an extra piece cut for this purpose +is more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made from an extra piece +sewed over the top after the side is finished. + + +COVERING TURBANS-- + +Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the +matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of +place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone +or in combination with fabric. Velvets, georgette, satin, and taffeta +are used. A turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a +charming hat: the lower edge invariably looks better if first bound with +a bias piece of velvet no matter what the covering may be--it seems to +give a softer look around the face. A round crown of buckram makes a +good turban frame if a bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to +the lower edge to give a little flare. A frame of this kind may be +draped with velvet, satin, georgette, or any pliable material, and when +skillfully done the effect is beautiful indeed. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +WIRE FRAMES + + +EQUIPMENT + + Brace wire or frame wire + Tie wire + Sprung wire + Pliers + + +TO OPEN COIL OF WIRE-- + +Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen +gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils +separate. + + +TO CUT WIRE-- + +Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the +point where they cut and press straight down. Be sure to cut with the +first attempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the pliers are +injured and the covering loosened at the ends of the wire which will +make it impossible to tie them together. + + +TO STRAIGHTEN WIRE-- + +Pass the wire between the thumb and finger with a sweeping motion. A +piece of cloth or paper may be held in the hand if the fingers become +tender. Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting to straighten +it, as it will be impossible to remove them. + + +TO TIE WIRE-- + +Ends of brace wire parallel. + +Right angles tied diagonally. + +Brace wire tied without use of tie wire. + +Before beginning to make a frame of wire, time will be saved and +necessary experience gained by tying a few short pieces of wire, until a +strong joint can be made. Cut fifty pieces or more of tie wire +three-quarters of an inch long. Cut two pieces of brace or frame wire +two or three inches long. Lap the ends of the heavy wire one inch, then +lap one of these pieces of tie wire around once as close to the end of +the brace wire as is possible. Hold in the left hand and with the end of +the pliers grasp the ends of the tie wire as close to the brace wire as +possible and twist tightly until the joint feels firm. Place pliers back +a little and twist several times until a little cable is formed. Cut +this off, leaving an eighth-inch end. Press this end down flat with the +jaws of the pliers. Tie the other end in the same manner. Practice this +until a satisfactory joint can be made with ease, before attempting to +make a frame of wire. + +[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE] + +[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH USE OF TIE WIRE] + +[Illustration: METHOD OF MAKING PAPER PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM] + +[Illustration: METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON DROOPING BRIM] + +[Illustration: BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT +LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS VERY GREAT] + +[Illustration: PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. +ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT] + + +TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE DIAGONALLY-- + +TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE WITHOUT THE USE OF TIE WIRE-- + +Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened, +at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches +extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the +end straight backward, close to and parallel with the other end of the +wire. The end should pass once and a half around. Use the jaws of the +pliers to press parallel wires in the twist together, and to tighten the +twist. Cut the end off close and use the pliers to press the end down +flat. + + +TO MAKE WIRE FRAME FOR HAT HAVING FLAT BRIM AND SQUARE CROWN-- + +Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a +paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of +the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more +satisfactory first to make a paper pattern. + + +PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to +fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply. +Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease. +This is to determine the position of the wire spokes in the brim. The +eight creases will correspond to the eight spokes in the brim; this is +the correct number of spokes. + + +HEADSIZE WIRE FOR WIRE FRAME-- + +A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut two just alike, +remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in +any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements +taken for this wire. Measure as for the headsize in a fabric hat, +lapping the ends one inch, and tying them. Try on these wires and shape +to fit the head. They should usually be elongated two inches. + +Pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern, placing the joining on the +back crease and the exact center front of wire on the front crease; next +pin the sides securely, being careful to keep the wire shaped to fit the +head. Allow one-half inch inside of wire and slash every half inch out +to headsize wire. The pattern may now be tried on the head for any +necessary alterations. The brim pattern may be added to or cut away. + + +WORKING MEASUREMENTS NEEDED-- + +Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire. Before +removing the wire, mark the eight different points where it crosses the +creases in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the pattern. + + +STICKS FOR BRIM-- + +Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter +of the brim plus three inches for finishing. Place one of these sticks +across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the +pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal length. Fasten to the +headsize wire with tie wire. Place the next stick from side to side, +joining on the pencil marks. The two remaining sticks when placed on the +remaining marks divide the circle into eighths. This is called the +skeleton of the brim; the wires are named _front_, _back_, _right side_, +_left side_, _right side front_, _right side back_, _left side front_, +_left side back_. The position of these ends or spokes should correspond +to the creases in the paper pattern, and the length of each one should +be determined by measuring the corresponding crease on the pattern. + + +EDGE WIRE-- + +Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the +brim plus one inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the +pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it, always +keeping the tied ends on the back crease. If these measurements are +carefully made, the brim will be exactly like the pattern. + + +TO JOIN EDGE WIRE-- + +Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke +at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around +the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut +the end off close and press the cut end flat with the pliers. Next +finish the center front spoke, then the sides and those in between. A +great deal depends upon accuracy in making an acceptable wire frame. Add +as many circles of wire between the edge wire and the headsize wire as +desired, fastening to the spokes with tie wire. Keep all wire laps at +the back on the center spoke. + + +COLLAR OF BRIM-- + +Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these +wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at +right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the +top of these wires, using the same method as for joining the edge wire. +This collar may be made very low or as high as the wires will permit. A +separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very +sheer material or sheer braid. In such a case the collar would be made +as high as possible to make a support for the crown trimming. + + +SQUARE CROWN FOR WIRE FRAME-- + +Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to +reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown +to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for +finishing. Cut and join a small circle of brace wire--about three inches +in diameter--for the crown top. Lay the four sticks across this circle +dividing it into eight equal sections as at the beginning of the brim, +and join to the sticks with tie wire. Cut a piece of brace wire one inch +smaller than the headsize wire. Lap the ends and tie this wire. Elongate +slightly. Join to the sticks outside of the small circle. Keep all +lapped ends of circles on the center back spoke. Bend spokes down _over_ +this circle, then measure down from this circle for the height of crown +and mark on spokes with pencil. Be very accurate. + + +BASE WIRE FOR CROWN-- + +Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the +headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base +wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize +wire on the brim. Place this circle, after having shaped it like the +headsize wire, on the inside of the spokes at the point marked, +beginning at the center back, and finish as any edge wire by twisting +the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire. Press the wires +down tight with the pliers. Cut the ends off close and press flat with +the jaws of the pliers. Many more circles may be added and tied on with +tie wire if desired; also more spokes may be added. This would be +desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or if used for +blocking fabric for frames. + + +TRANSPARENT HATS-- + +If a wire frame is to be covered with thin material, great care and +thought should be given to the frame, for it then forms part of the +design of the hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in this case, or a +beautiful frame may be made for thin materials by using a satin-covered +cable wire, and using as few wires as possible. It may seem advisable +after a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ROUND CROWN OF WIRE + + +A round crown is one which rounds from tip to base. First straighten, +measure, and cut four sticks of brace wire, as for square crown, of the +ordinary length, allowing for finishing. Cut and join the ends of a +short piece of brace wire five or six inches long. This makes a small +circle for the top of the crown. Begin by tying the sticks across this +circle under it, dividing it into halves, quarters, and eighths, being +careful that the divisions are made accurately and that the sticks +extend an equal length from the circle. Keep these wires _flat_ across +this circle. The sticks may now be curved down. It is sometimes found +easier to attach the base wire at this point before adding other +circles. + +[Illustration: FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID] + +[Illustration: ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS +MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED] + +[Illustration: ROUND CROWN OF WIRE] + + +BASE WIRE-- + +Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer than the wire used for +the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch. Make this the same shape as +the headsize wire and test the size by trying it on over the headsize +wire on the brim for which the crown is made. An ordinary height for a +round crown would be seven inches from tip to base wire, but to be safe, +it is always better to measure the head. Sometimes, on account of an +abundance of hair or a high coiffure, a greater height is needed. If the +base wire is elongated to fit the head, the side measurement from the +tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter than from the tip to +the front and the back. It will be most helpful to take an old crown +which has an elongated headsize and either measure it and work from the +measures or else work over it. + +The crown must be even at the bottom when finished, and when placed upon +the table must rest evenly. The base wire may be tied with tie wire on +the front and back spokes and on each side spoke until the circles +between it and the crown tip are added. It will then be found easy to +adjust it before finishing off the wires; i.e., the crown may be made +higher or lower. + + +CIRCLES OR HOOPS-- + +Add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at +the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same +size. Keep all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will +conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little +further apart at the front and back than at the sides. + + +TO FINISH THE BASE OF THE CROWN-- + +The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base +wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the +brim. + + +A SHAPED WIRE FRAME MADE IN ONE PIECE-- + +The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or +one that droops a little. Before beginning this hat it will be found +easier to have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be necessary to +make a pattern for the crown, which may be either round or square, and +for which directions have already been given. + + +PATTERN FOR BRIM-- + +Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric +shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or +fit quite close. In either case the method is the same. + +Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on to shape. Mark on the +wire at the point where the creases touch the wire. It is important not +to hurry at this point. Make many patterns and then choose the most +becoming one. After the pattern is perfected, crease it sharply the same +as in the sailor brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern and +use them in marking the wires. This brim pattern is not needed until the +crown has been made. In making a wire frame in one piece, we begin at +the top of the crown and work down. + + +CROWN-- + +Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the +width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to +finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming +frayed it is better to have a generous allowance. Begin at the crown tip +and work down until ready for the headsize wire. The last wire is or +should be of the same size as the regular headsize wire. Place the lap +of the headsize wire on the back spoke of the crown and join by twisting +the spokes once and a half around. Join the front and remaining spokes +in the same way, being careful to join where the wire was marked at the +creases on the pattern. + + +BRIM-- + +We are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern. +Mark the length of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are to be +apart should be marked on the edge wire. These measurements are taken +from the pattern. Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as +many circles between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired. + +We have now made in wire the first variation from a perfectly flat brim. +Always make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and +then measurements may be taken from the hat to be copied. Here are some +of the reasons why the pattern is important: first, it may be tried on +and this helps to decide if the style is becoming, before working it out +in wire; second, the position of the wires may be determined and marked +on the paper pattern; third, the more work done from a paper pattern the +easier it will be to copy; fourth, it trains the eye, thus making +free-hand work much easier. + + +A ROLLING BRIM-- + +Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim, the same +method is used. First, as always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to +roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other, extra wires +will be needed to fill the space. The place for these may be determined +on the paper pattern. They may go all the way around, being brought more +closely together on the low side or only part way around as in the +illustration. + +Wire frame making requires much patience and practice. It is an art just +as all millinery is an art. Lines are all important. Because of this I +urge much pattern making. Even though one may not have the fundamental +principles of art, something really good often develops and we find we +have built better than we knew. It stimulates originality, but we must +work without _fear_. + + +TO COLOR WIRE FRAMES-- + +Wires come in both black and white. A white frame may be colored to +match any sheer fabric used for its covering. It will be found to be +more simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of the cold or soap +dyes may be used. If these are not available, a piece of velveteen +soaked in alcohol and rubbed on the frame will give of its color +sufficiently to tint the wire. Crepe paper may also be used, or +water-color paints. Rouge may be used effectively if moistened. There +are also gold and silver wires which may be used for frames when +desired, and which will add to the beauty of the design. If they cannot +be purchased, a frame of white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt, +applying it to the frame with a small brush. + + +HALO HAT BRIMS-- + +Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but to be effective the material +should be sheer. Malines, nets, georgette crepe, or chiffon are all used +to good effect in making this style of hat. Good-looking halo brims have +been made from old georgette waists, using the back for the brim and the +front and sleeves for the crown. + +Only two wires are used in making this brim, the edge wire and the +headsize wire. The size of the brim is to be determined and then a hoop +of sprung wire cut just the length of the circumference of the brim. +This wire is uncovered; the ends just meet and are joined by the use of +a little clamp, the ends being inserted and pressed down with the jaws +of the pliers. + +Place the material from which the brim is to be made upon a flat +surface. If of maline, several thicknesses may be used. Fasten this +material down to the table slightly with pins or thumb tacks. Lay a +circle of sprung wire on the material and pin in place. Begin by pinning +the back, front, and then each side, being careful not to pull the wire +out of shape. Take the work up and pin the material closely all around +the edge. Cut off, allowing one-quarter of an inch to turn over the +wire. Sew to the wire closely with an overcasting stitch or with a +running stitch just inside of the wire. The edge may be bound with a +fold of the same material, a fold of satin or one row of braid. + + +HEADSIZE WIRE FOR HALO BRIM-- + +This headsize wire is made of frame wire. First measure, then cut, join +ends, and shape as for any hat. Lay the headsize wire on the material, +having the joining at the back. The front and the back of the brim, if +of equal width, will be somewhat narrower than the side because of the +elongated headsize wire; however, the headsize wire may be placed on +the brim in any position desired. Pin in place and sew with an +overcasting stitch. Trim the material inside the headsize wire, leaving +an extension of one-quarter of an inch to turn over; it will be found +necessary to sew this down over the wire, making the edge more secure. + +Another method of making a halo brim is accomplished by cutting a piece +of material on the bias, twice as wide as the brim and as long as the +circumference. Stretch this piece of material, then pin the center of +the strip over the edge wire, gather the raw edges to fit the headsize +wire and sew in place. This method does not make a smooth brim, but is +more quickly made. When two thicknesses of sheer material are used for +halo brims a very pretty effect is obtained by placing flat flowers, +petals of flowers, or feathers between the two materials. + + +CROWN FOR HALO BRIM-- + +This may be very sheer, although a halo brim may be used on a braid or +satin crown if desired. A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of +a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. This is sewed to the +headsize wire. The covering for the crown is usually made in the shape +of a circle about fourteen inches in diameter, with the same number of +thicknesses as the brim. Gather one-quarter of an inch from the edge, +adjust fullness and sew to the headsize wire. The height of the crown +depends upon the style of hair dressing. Place a band of the same +material as the crown, or a narrow ribbon, around the base of the crown +for trimming and to conceal the wires. A wired bow of the sheer material +may be used very effectively. (See chapter on "Bows.") + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +HAT COVERINGS + + +TO COVER WITH BRAID-- + +Great care and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw +braid. The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied, +as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames. +(See illustration.) + +The stitch used for sewing braid is always the same--a very short stitch +on the right side, and a stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong +side. The thread must not be pulled too tight, or the position of the +stitches may be seen; also always match the thread to the straw. Straw +braid may be sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline frame +except when a _very_ soft hat is desired; it may then be sewed and +shaped over a wire or buckram frame, but not on to it, as it is to be +removed from the frame after sewing; or, if the braid is coarse, it may +be sewed to a wire frame which has been previously covered with +crinoline or mull. (See illustration.) + +[Illustration: ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN +PLACE] + +Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while a fabric is used on top. +In this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitches +may be taken through the brim, which the fabric on top will cover. + + +TO PIN IN PLACE ON THE FRAME-- + +Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim, +beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the +right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back +is reached. Curve the second row gradually up from the center back; do +not make an abrupt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usually +one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a thread at the edge of most +braids which may be pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed +on a curve. The outside edge of the first row must be left free for the +edge of the fabric, which covers the other side, to be slipped under. Do +not begin sewing until the second row is basted in place. + + +TO SEW-- + +Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under +side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and +the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the +thread is not pulled too tight. Take a stitch on the wrong side from +one-quarter to one-half an inch in length, depending upon the width and +quality of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the braid until the +headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one +inch. If the brim is wider at some points than at others, the wider side +must be filled in with short strips following the same curve, being +careful that the ends are left long enough to extend up beyond the +headsize wire one inch. When the brim is very much wider at some points, +short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is +sewed; this would not make such an abrupt curve, and the general lines +of the braid would be more pleasing. + +When one side of the brim is to be covered with fabric, fit this to the +brim, baste at the headsize wire and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter +of an inch to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the first row +of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric under. Pin and slipstitch to +place through the straw. + + +BOTH SIDES OF BRIM COVERED WITH BRAID-- + +Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim +both on the top and the bottom. These edges may be brought together +with a small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first +bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a row of braid or gay-colored +material. If the edge of the brim is bound, the edges of the first rows +of braid at the top and bottom would not meet. The bound edge thus +showing gives the effect of a cord. + + +TO COVER A CROWN WITH BRAID-- + +Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the second row off from the +first row the same as on the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread +(which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) and sew until +the center of the crown tip is reached, when a hole in the top of the +crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the +underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat all the +way. Sometimes it is easier to begin sewing the braid on at the very +center of the top of the crown, or a few rows may be sewed to a small +circle of crinoline before attaching to the top of the crown. + +If a braid is used which is composed of four or five smaller braids +sewed together, the method is the same until the crown tip is reached +or a place where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat. The braid +must then be separated into the smaller strands and one cut off at a +time, and each end lapped under the preceding strand; proceed with the +remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until only one remains to +finish the center with. When the crown tip is completed, push the +remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to +the inside of the crown. When using this kind of braid the operation may +be reversed, beginning at the center of the top and covering a small +circle of buckram with braid; press it with a warm iron to flatten it, +then sew in place on the crown and complete the covering. This seems the +easier method, because the top of the crown will look much better if +pressed and this will be found hard to do unless begun on a small +separate piece of buckram. + + +TO PIECE BRAID-- + +Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when +careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of +several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart +for several inches and the strands cut in unequal lengths; also the +strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of +such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one +inch. The ends cut in this way may be tucked under one at a time without +the joining being noticeable. If the braid is very wide it may seem best +when covering a frame to cut and join the ends of the row of braid. It +would then be better to make a straight joining in the back. + +If a fancy braid is to be pieced, the ends are lapped diagonally and +sewed flat. If a fancy joining is part of the design, a simple one is to +lap the ends to look as though woven. This may be employed on a crown or +brim or both, and it then becomes a part of the design. Also the top of +the crown or any part of the hat may have a woven covering of braid, but +any such fancy method requires an additional amount of braid. + +The top of the crown may be covered by laying the braid on straight from +front to back, allowing the ends to extend down on the side crown an +inch or more. The braid of the side crown should cover these ends. The +brim of a narrow hat is often covered with short lengths of braid +radiating from the headsize wire, the ends extending up on the crown +one inch. A fabric is often combined with braid for the sake of design, +or if there is an insufficient quantity of braid. + + +CROWN TOP OF BRAID, SIDE CROWN OF FABRIC-- + +SIDE CROWN OF BRAID AND TOP OF FABRIC-- + +BAND OF MATERIAL, PLAIN OR CORDED, SET IN SIDE CROWN-- + +BRIM AND CROWN MADE FROM SMALL PIECES OF SILK AND BRAID-- + +A very soft-looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire +foundation which has been made for the purpose. The braid may be pinned +on the brim of wire and sewed, being careful not to attach the braid to +the frame; slip the needle over the wire and finish sewing the braid +while it is still pinned to the brim, then remove, press slightly, and +sew a facing of braid to the under side of the brim if desired. Some +kinds of braid may be dampened before pressing, but it is safer to +experiment first with a small piece, for some braid is ruined by +pressing. + +A soft crown of braid should be fitted over a wire crown and sewed in +the same way. After removing it from the wire frame, it can be slightly +pressed by holding it over a thick cloth held in the hand and pressing a +warm iron to the outside. A soft hat of braid can more easily be made by +first making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid to it. Horsehair +braid crowns are beautiful when shaped over a wire foundation. They may +be pressed slightly (after being removed from the wire crown over which +they have been shaped) when they will be found to keep their shape. The +brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out in shape and the braid +should be caught down to the wire as it is being sewed. A small lace +wire should be used for this foundation, four spokes together with the +headsize wire and edge wire being sufficient. The wire should be wound +with maline or have a facing of maline. Horsehair braid is transparent. +There are many fanciful ways of using braid on a hat, but these can be +readily copied if the foregoing methods have been mastered. Be very +careful about pressing braids or adding moisture as it ruins some +braids, while others must be moistened before they can be handled in +sewing to a hat frame. + + +COVERING WIRE FRAMES WITH MALINE, NET OR GEORGETTE-- + +Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material, such as maline, +net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a +part of the design, and the wire should be silk covered. + +If maline is used, it should be pleated or gathered on, unless the brim +is of the halo style, for which directions are given elsewhere. Four or +five thicknesses of maline are necessary. The material is often gathered +in small quarter-inch tucks at the points where the tuck may be sewed to +the circle wire on the brim or the crown. A small tuck at the edge wire +would make a softer looking edge than if put on plain. The fullness is +then gathered in and sewed to the headsize wire. If the edge is left +plain, a few rows of lacey-looking braid may be sewed on the edge. A +wide tuck hanging down from the edge is sometimes used and it is very +becoming to certain types of faces. The wires of a frame are often first +wound with narrow bias pieces of net or maline. The edges are turned in +and the material wrapped on smoothly and evenly. Sometimes the wires are +wound with a contrasting color. + +An effective covering for any frame may be made from ribbon or bias +strips of satin or silk, velvet or georgette, or any soft fabric. If a +wire frame is used, it must first be covered with a thin plain material +to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon or strips of material may +be sewed, or a frame of neteen or crinoline may be used if a very soft +hat is desired. + + +RIBBON COVERING-- + +If a ribbon is used, it must be gathered on one edge so that it may be +drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid on the same as braid. An +inch-wide ribbon is easily handled. + + +BIAS FABRIC-- + +If bias strips of silk or satin are used, the material should be cut in +strips two and one-half inches wide, on a true bias, and joined in one +long strip. Fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges +together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge. This +is sewed to the frame the same as braid, the folded edge overlapping the +raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it as it is pinned and sewed +in place. This is an excellent way to use up old material. + + + +HAT LININGS + +A hat lining should receive the same careful consideration and +workmanship as the outside of the hat. From the milliner's point of view +it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A +well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk, enhances the +value of a hat. Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the +lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil. + +There are three popular kinds of linings-- + + Plain lining + French lining + Tailored lining + + +PLAIN LINING-- + +This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the +headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as +the crown height plus two and one-half inches. + +[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS +SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP +TO FIT CROWN] + +Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the back of the hat; fold +the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside +of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the +hat is on the head. Pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the +two ends together; then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in +place. The method is to bring the needle from the underside of the +lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on +the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold +at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from +the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached. +Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a +running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow +ribbon should be run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make the +lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with this lining, which is +made of a piece of silk four inches square, sewed or glued to the inside +of the crown top. On this piece the designer's name is usually found. + + +FRENCH LINING-- + +This lining is made from an oval piece of silk which corresponds to the +crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side +to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the +inside of the hat at the headsize and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over +the wire one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the wire using +a small running stitch. After completed, pin in place and slipstitch to +the crown. This lining will reduce the headsize of any hat somewhat, so +it should never be used if there is any danger of making the hat too +small for the head. + + +TAILORED LINING-- + +This lining is rather the most popular lining used. Large firms send +their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be +bought ready-made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be +easily made into one of these linings. + +Cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as the top of crown, baste +a piece of silk lining over this. Pin this on top of the crown, as this +can best be fitted on the outside and should be done before the hat is +made. Now cut a piece of bias material long enough to reach around the +bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all points. +After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up one-quarter of an inch at the +bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown. Stretch snugly because the +inside of the crown is smaller; pin the fullness to the crown top all +around, gather between pins, and baste in place. Stitch on the machine. +This seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover the seam. + +Linings may be made of taffeta, china silk, satin, sateen or of almost +any material which is not too heavy. When a wire frame is covered with +thin material and the frame shows through, the hat should have a thin +lining. If the hat is covered with maline, use a maline lining; if with +georgette, a georgette lining should be used. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +TRIMMINGS + + +MILLINER'S FOLD-- + +Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a +bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This +must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof +threads parallel. Any other bias is called a garment bias. Hold the +wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side +toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge. The basting +thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave +the basting in. Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges +meet, but do not baste. Fold again, keeping this last fold one-quarter +of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place +and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the edge of the fold and +take a long stitch, then, going down through to the other side, take a +short stitch. Come back through a little under the fold to hide the +stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before, and +continue in this manner. The thread should be kept loose all the way to +permit the fold to be stretched slightly when used. The fold when +finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it. + +Another separate single fold may be added to this; it is then called a +French fold. The milliner's fold has many uses, such as finishing the +edge of hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining of the hat +to the brim. It is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and +is much used in mourning millinery, when it is made of crepe. + + + +BOWS + +For the inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy +many different styles of bows, using either tissue paper or cheap +cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times. +Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for an amateur, while for some +students of millinery it is very easy, but any one with patience may +become quite expert in time. + +Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width of the ribbon which is +to be used. In this way the exact amount of ribbon may be determined, +as well as the length of each loop. If a stiff, smart-looking bow is to +be made, fold the ribbon in loops before pleating. If a soft-looking or +puffy, "fat"-looking bow is desired, pleat the ribbon singly before +making the loops. The soft bow is often used for children's hats. After +the desired number of loops is made, wind a strong thread around the +center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center +several times until the center is filled up sufficiently to look well. + + +BOWS OF MALINE-- + +Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it +lends itself to many uses. Hat frames are covered with maline; it is +used to cover wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or +worn-out flowers; for shirred brims and crowns; for pleatings; for folds +on edges of brims to give a soft look; and for bows. + +A bow of maline requires wiring with a very small tie wire or lace wire. +The wire may be caught in a fold at the edge of the loops, or the loops +may be made double with the wire caught inside. + + +WIRED RIBBON BOWS-- + +Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired. Silk, satin, +velvet, or any kind of ribbon can be used. The flat ribbon wire is +sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two +colors are rather effectively used in this way. The wire may also be +stitched to one edge of the ribbon. This is done by turning the ribbon +over the wire at the edge and stitching on the sewing machine. The ends +of the wire should extend two inches beyond the ends of the loop of the +bow. After the bow is arranged, these ends should be bent out and back, +making loops which are sewed down to the hat. This holds the bow very +firmly, especially if a small piece of buckram is placed inside the hat +at the point at which the bow is to be sewed. This re-enforces the frame +and makes it still more firm. If a bow is to be placed on top of a +crown, a hole may be made and the ribbon which completes the middle of +the bow may be brought up from the inside of the crown through this +opening, over the bow, and down through this opening and fastened inside +of the crown. + +A narrow ribbon of velvet is very pretty twisted over a wire and two +perky loops and ends made. These are very pretty perched on the edge of +a brim or among flowers on the hat. + + +TRUE LOVERS' KNOT-- + +This is not, strictly speaking, a bow, but comes under this head. The +ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed flat as it is made. It may +be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made of gold +ribbon. + + +TAILORED BOW-- + +This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon which has both sides +alike, although it may be made from any ribbon. A Knox tailored bow is +made from gros-grained ribbon. Cut a small piece of buckram for a +foundation to sew the ribbon on. This should be sufficiently small so +that the ribbon will conceal it. Make two loops of equal length, letting +the ribbon lie perfectly flat. Measurements should be very exact. Sew +these loops firmly to the buckram; fold the ribbon back and forth to +make these loops without cutting. Next fold two more loops, one on each +side, one-quarter of an inch shorter and exactly on top. Sew firmly and +cut the ribbon off at the center. Fasten two short ends to the back of +the bow, allowing them to extend one-quarter of an inch and cut +diagonally. Take a short length of ribbon and pleat it once through the +center. Wrap this once around the bow and fasten at the back. + +This bow is much used on sailors or any tailored hat. There are many +kinds of fancy bows brought out from season to season, but if the making +of a few styles of standard bows is mastered, others may be easily +copied. + +[Illustration: SECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON +THE WIRE] + +[Illustration: RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM] + +[Illustration: TRUE LOVERS' KNOT] + +[Illustration: RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION] + +[Illustration: SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)] + + + +PLEATINGS + +A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made, +it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its +attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be +made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a +thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating +requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a +half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and +one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread. +Press slightly on the wrong side before using. + + +BOX PLEATING-- + +This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the +right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If +the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be _one_ +inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on +the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center +and the edges caught together. + + +DOUBLE OR TRIPLE BOX-PLEATING-- + +This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other. +Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same +number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the +box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This +pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after +having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed. +The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and +it is then known as _rose pleating_. + + +RADIATING-- + +This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but very handsome +ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually +required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations +given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other +models and original designs can be easily made. + + +FOUNDATIONS OF BUCKRAM-- + +The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from +buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant +places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the +center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may +be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five +yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would be placed near the +outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The +pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the +pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this +first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested +by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the +pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these +points. The last or finishing row is the most difficult of all. The +pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge +be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is +sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished +without either bow or button. + + + +POMPONS + +Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made +perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses +of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the +elongated pompon would be cut like pattern "a." Each piece is folded +lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which +has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are +left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact. + + + +RIBBON ROSETTES + +There are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes +several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with +thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette is made of narrow +ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more +of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot +placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness. + + +ROSETTES FROM OLD PLUMES-- + +An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from +the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small +portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers +together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be +wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing +addition. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +HAND-MADE FLOWERS + + +FLOWERS + +MATERIAL REQUIRED: + + Tie wire, green + Gum tissue, brown and green + Cotton batting + Milliner's glue + Yellow stamens + Dark green tissue paper + +Flowers may be made from almost any fabric--satin, velvet, georgette, +maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag +for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials. +Any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits. Such a +bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers +and fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in trimmings, but +hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats, gowns, suits, +and muffs. They are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A generous +number of the best examples are given here with illustrations. + +To prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult, but to arrange +them is another matter. Study the face of any blossom which you are +making and try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning the +petals in place before sewing them is of great value, otherwise they are +apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed. + +[Illustration: A. AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE WITH DETAIL. B. RIBBON ROSE. C. +CHERRIES WITH DETAIL. D. ORCHIDS WITH LILIES OF THE VALLEY. E. RAISINS. +F. WIRED ROSE WITH DETAIL. G. POINSETTIA.] + + +AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE-- + +This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may have as many petals as +desired. Each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the +diagram (1). It is highly important that the folded edge be on a _true_ +bias. Begin the rose by cutting three petals like the illustration, with +the bias edge one and one-half inches long. Run a gathering thread +one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, leaving a thread one inch +long so that the petal may be adjusted as it is pinned in place. Make a +loop one inch long on the end of a piece of wire six inches long. Cover +this loop with a small circle of the material like the rose. It is +sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this circle with cotton to +make a soft center for the rose. + +For an ordinary-sized rose there should be eighteen petals. The first +three are already described as having a one and one-half-inch bias. The +next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be correspondingly +wider; the next five should have a two and one-half-inch bias, and the +next five a three-inch bias. The three small petals should be arranged +around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place before sewing. Sew +securely. Each row, as it is arranged according to size, should be +pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed +effectively. Each row should be placed a little higher than the +preceding one. See that the face of the flower looks as nearly like a +real rose as possible, allowing the back to look as it will. + +With a little experience one soon becomes efficient and learns how to +adjust the different materials. Some materials being more pliable than +others, the shape of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the +need. The back of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number +of green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the +purpose. A small green cup is also added to finish the base; these may +be bought at ribbon counters. The bud used with this rose may be made by +using the three smallest petals. Some green foliage must also be used +with this rose and the stem bound with a narrow gray-green ribbon, or +with gum tissue which should be warmed before using. The inside petals +may be of a darker shade than the outside petals. + + +RIBBON ROSE-- + +To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon +two inches wide. There are several different methods of making the +center for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be made from a +piece of the ribbon, four inches long. Fold this in half. Sew the +selvages together along one side. Turn and fill with cotton around which +has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame wire. A little +rose-scented sachet powder may be sprinkled on this cotton to add +perfume to the blossom. Gather the satin down close to the wire after +rounding the corners at the lower edges. Two yards should make this +center and eighteen petals. More may be added or fewer may be used. For +the first row cut three lengths three inches long; the second row, five +lengths three and one-half inches long; third row, five lengths four +inches long; fourth row five lengths four and one-half inches long. Each +petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place Fold the two +ends together, turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and +pin in place. Now raise the end on the back of the petal and catch the +corners down with a few small stitches. Replace the end and gather the +raw edges together, but do not draw up close. Prepare all of the petals +in the same way before beginning to sew them to the center. Sometimes a +tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each petal to make the rose look +larger. When all the petals are finished, begin the rose by adding the +three smallest petals first. Pin in place around the center, wrapping +them closely around it and letting them extend about one-eighth of an +inch above the point. Add the next row, pinning each petal in place +before sewing. Place each succeeding row one-eighth of an inch above the +preceding one. Watch the face of the blossom carefully and see that it +looks as natural as possible. The back of the blossom will be covered +when finished, either with a few old rose leaves and a rose cup, or +points of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves. A rubber stem may be +bought to slip over the wire on which the rose is sewed, or the wire may +be wound with green floss, baby ribbon, green tissue paper, or gum +tissue. If the rose is to be full blown, it would be much better to +make the center of yellow stamens. + + +WILD ROSE OF SILK-- + +The petals for the wild rose may be cut from the same pattern as for the +first rose given. This same pattern is used for many different +flowers--the wild rose, apple blossom, sweet pea, and for foliage. + +For the wild rose use the size having the two-inch bias. Gather +one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, draw down tight and fasten +the thread off. This rose requires five petals, and will look more +natural if two of the petals are of a darker shade than the other three. +For the center wrap a piece of tie wire around several yellow rose +stamens which may be bought at a millinery store, leaving the ends of +wire five or six inches long. Arrange the petals flat around this center +and sew in place. The petals should lie out flat, or nearly so. A bud +for this rose is made by folding a petal together after having gathered +it. The bud may be effectively finished by using two leaves of foliage, +placing one on either side, partially covering the bud and then +finishing with the wire or a small green rose cup. To finish with wire, +make a loop in the center of a ten-inch piece of tie wire. To this loop +sew the bud. Twist the wire several times for an inch below the bud, +then turn one end of the wire back and twist it around the stem until +the bud is reached. Wind it several times over the base of the bud, draw +it tight and see that the wire is close together. This will make a +finish for the bud. + + +FOLIAGE-- + +The rose foliage may be made if desired. Cut the leaves from green satin +or velvet, or color them green with water-color if a light-colored +material must be used. After cutting the pieces in the shape of rose +leaves (it will require two pieces for each leaf), lay one wrong side +up, cover with milliner's glue. Lay on the center of this a piece of tie +wire long enough for the stem. Place another leaf on this and press +together. When all the leaves are made after this method, arrange on a +long stem or wire, and if wound with brown gum tissue it will look very +natural. + + +SMALL WOUND ROSE OF FABRIC-- + +Cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch wide and four inches +long. Fold lengthwise through the middle. Turn the raw edges in on one +end, and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges. Draw +the thread up to one inch and roll, beginning with the folded end, and +sew. A piece of tie wire may be glued inside the fold before gathering, +if desired. These little roses may be sewed on a stem or sewed to a +shaped piece of buckram which has been covered with silk. It may be in +the shape of a buckle or a circle and covered with these little roses in +several colors, pink, blue, and mauve. Sewed flat against a crown or on +a brim, they would trim a hat effectively. + + +WIRED ROSE-- + +This rose, when carefully made, is most beautiful and sells for an +exorbitant price. To make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter +of a yard of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of velvet +cut on the bias. If the velvet is one or more shades darker, the result +will be more pleasing. + +The rose is fashioned from petals cut like the illustration. The first +three petals are cut from dimensions given in the illustration, two +inches long and one and three-quarters inches wide. The next five petals +should be one-quarter of an inch larger, and each succeeding row of five +petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger than the preceding one. +The last row of petals is to be made from the velvet. Cut a piece of the +tie wire long enough to reach around the outside edge of each petal, +plus one and one-half inches. Lay the petals down wrong side up, bend +the wire to the shape of the petal, lay the wire close to the edge and +turn the raw edge over the wire one-eighth of an inch and glue in place +with milliner's glue. Place a light weight on the petals until +thoroughly dry. + +Begin assembling the flower by first making a center from some of the +scraps left from the velvet, or yellow rose stamens may be used; fold +several small pieces into bud-like shapes of about one inch in length, +sew strongly and fasten on a loop of the wire six inches long. Keep the +point where all the petals are joined in as small a circumference as +possible. Begin with the three small petals, pleat them at the bottom +into as small a space as possible, and sew to the center with the wrong +side to the center. After they have been arranged, the edges may be +crinkled down somewhat. Add the remaining petals according to their +size. The last row of velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is +placed with the right side toward the center. + + +FLAT PASTED BLOSSOM-- + +A conventional flower which makes a beautiful trimming may be made from +the pattern for the wired rose first given. Cut five petals (of any size +required) from velvet, and five the same size from silk or satin. Lay +the velvet petals wrong side up and cover with milliner's glue. Lay on +this a piece of tie wire one-quarter of an inch from the edge, allowing +an extension of ends of the wire at the bottom of the petal. Lay the +silk petal on top and press firmly. When dry arrange these five petals +around a cluster of yellow stamens, which have been fastened to a loop +of tie wire. This blossom should lie out flat when finished. Of course +the shape of the petals may be changed in any way desired. + + +POINSETTIAS-- + +The petals of this blossom are also pasted to a lining, the poinsettia +making a beautiful ornament. While a bright red is extremely lovely, a +black poinsettia is equally effective. The petals should be made of +velvet and lined with the same color in satin. These petals being +narrow, only need a wire through the center. After the petals have been +prepared, they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow stamens or +knotted baby ribbon. + +The foliage is made from green velvet lined with green silk. The +accompanying illustration shows the proportion of both the petals of the +blossom and the foliage. The stems may be wound with green or brown gum +tissue. + + +POPPIES-- + +Poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen inches long and two and +one-quarter inches wide. Cut two pieces five and one-half inches long. +This leaves one piece six inches long. This will make five petals. Cut +the ends round on the five and one-half inch pieces, and cut one end of +the six-inch piece round. Beginning at the center, close to edge, gather +with a small running stitch. Turn in the raw edges and draw the thread +sufficiently to make the rounded ends curl over one inch, and fasten off +the thread. These two long pieces make four petals. Pleat them very +close at the center, sew together, finish the single petal the same and +add it to the four petals. Knotted black baby ribbon or yellow stamens +or both will make a beautiful center. + + +MORNING GLORIES-- + +Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. One quarter section of +this will be the pattern for a morning glory. The circle may be larger +if desired, but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used. +These dimensions are for a small blossom made of taffeta silk or +organdie. If made of velvet or heavy silk, the pattern should be much +larger. + +Lap the straight edges one-eighth of an inch in and paste in place. This +makes a cone. Cut a piece of tie wire six inches in length, lap one end +over several knots of yellow baby ribbon and twist securely. Push the +other end of wire through the cone from the inside and draw the knots +down into the point. Make a short bend in the wire at the lower point of +the blossom on the outside to prevent its slipping down on the wire. The +upper edge of the cone may be rolled over a piece of tie wire and pasted +if necessary; usually it stays in place without either sewing or +pasting. The edge should be stretched slightly. Organdie or taffeta silk +will stay rolled into place without the tie wire. Water color is used +most effectively on these flowers to make the shading as true to nature +as possible. If made of velvet they may be sewed down flat on a hat at +the side joining, when a large stamen of twisted ribbon or chenille may +be made to cover the joining in the cone. + + +ORCHID-- + +This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron, or +wherever a touch of lavender is desired. It is effectively combined with +violets, or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals are +made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter inches wide and of the peculiar +pinkish lavender orchid shade. There are five petals in all--each calls +for seven inches of ribbon. If possible, three of the petals should be +one or two shades darker than the other two. + +Fold a seven-inch piece of ribbon (one and one-quarter inches wide) in +half with the right side out. Cut into shape like the illustration. +Stitch a seam along the curved edge one-eighth of an inch from the edge. +Twist a very small loop in one end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and +fasten up at folded end of the ribbon. Overhand this wire along the raw +edges, turn to the wrong side and sew the wire in with a one-eighth-inch +seam on the wrong side. This makes a French seam. Now spread the petal +open flat, and push it up on the wire until the petal measures six +inches in length. Gather the raw ends and wind them tight to the wire. +Finish the other four petals the same way. + + +NO. 1 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER-- + +This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and +four inches in length. If possible this ribbon should be darker than the +darkest petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the ends and hem +them down. Gather along one edge and draw down close around the looped +end of a piece of tie wire in which a bunch of yellow stamens have been +fastened. The blossom should be arranged with the three darker petals +pointing up at the back of the center and the other two at the front +drooping. + + +NO. 2 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER-- + +This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half +inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with +the satin side out. At one end sew straight across, making a seam +one-eighth of an inch deep and turn. Cut the other end like the diagram +and sew this with the velvet side out, leaving a tiny space at the +bottom to insert the wire. This now looks something like a "Jack in the +Pulpit." Twist a few yellow stamens in the end of a piece of seven-inch +tie wire and push the other end down through the little opening left at +the lower point and draw the stamens down in as low as desired. Make a +small, short loop in the tie wire close to the blossom to prevent its +slipping back down on the wire. + +Each year there are new developments in flower making, but the +principles are the same. If a few are mastered, there is usually very +little difficulty experienced in copying others which may appear from +year to year. Lovely flowers may be made from a few inches of hat braids +which are left over or from wool and raffia, maline or colored nets. + + +BLOSSOMS OF MALINE OR NET-- + +These may be made by using the same pattern as for the American Beauty +rose, selecting the size required. (See illustration.) Lay a strip of +tie wire inside along the bias fold. Gather along the curved edge and +draw down tight. This brings the two ends of the tie wire together, and +they should be twisted lightly. Arrange four or five leaves around a +few yellow stamens. If green tie wire is used, it is not necessary to +wind the stems; otherwise brown gum tissue may be wound around the stem. +From this pattern many different blossoms may be made, varying it +slightly, such as rosebuds, sweet peas, and apple blossoms. + + +SWEET PEAS-- + +Cut four petals after the same pattern, making one about one and +one-half inches and two one inch, then a small one for the center, or a +few knots of baby ribbon may be used for the center. Arrange the petals +in a natural-looking blossom. + + +VIOLETS-- + +No flower is more popular than the violet, and a cluster of handsome +violets make a most acceptable gift at any time. + +Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of an inch in width is +used. Begin by tying a knot one inch from the end, tie another one inch +from this knot; continue until there are five or six knots one inch +apart. In tying, try to keep the satin side of the ribbon out and make +as round a knot as possible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the +knot. Do not tie too tightly. A little practice is needed, but the +blossom is easily made. Hold the first knot between the thumb and +finger, bring the third knot up and place with it, then the fifth, and +so on, until the knots are all placed--usually three on one side, and +two or three on the other. Cut green tie wire six or seven inches long +for stems. Wind an inch of the end over the ribbon between these folded +knots and twist. Cut the ribbon off pointed, leaving one-half inch end. + +Two shades of ribbon may be used if desired. Sometimes a few yellow +stamens are fastened in with the wire or a few French knots in yellow +added at the center after the blossom is made, but neither is needed and +add but little to the beauty of this little blossom. Shape the petals up +around the center. + +The foliage for this flower can be bought, or made according to +directions given elsewhere. A spray of almost any foliage will do. A +small rosebud, a morning-glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of +violets will make it doubly charming. + + +DAISIES-- + +Daisies may be made from one-quarter inch ribbon, using as many petals +as desired. Cut the ribbon into two and one-half-inch lengths. Tie a +knot in the center. Sew the ends to a small, round piece of buckram. If +two rows of petals are used, the second row may be made one-quarter of +an inch shorter. The center may be covered with ready-made daisy centers +or a few French knots. The stem of wire is tacked to the buckram on the +back and may be wound with green floss. + + +GERANIUMS-- + +These flowers are made of geranium-colored satin ribbon. Use the same +method as in making violets, except that yellow stamens should always be +added. + + + +FRUIT + +APPLES-- + +The material required for making apples is cut into a circle of any size +desired and from any material. The edge should be turned in +one-sixteenth of an inch and gathered all around. Place this over a +piece of cotton batting, over which a piece of wire has been twisted, +leaving ends long enough for a stem. Add a sufficient amount of cotton +to fill the material out well. Draw the thread tight and sew. A stitch +may be caught through the center and pulled down, or a little tuft of +brown embroidery thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic +look. The apple may be tinted with water-color if desired. In that case +the entire apple should be moistened first and then the color applied +and allowed to dry. + + +CHERRIES-- + +These are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple--satin +or velvet would make a charming cluster. The method used is the same as +for the apple, except that there would be no stitch in the center. They +should also be filled until they are hard. Use tie wire for the stems. + + +PLUMS-- + +These may be made from a piece of plum-colored material on a true bias, +two and one-quarter inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Sew +the ends together on the wrong side. Turn, gather one end one-eighth of +an inch from the edge. Pull the thread up tight and sew. This makes the +"blow" end. Turn the lower edge in one-eighth of an inch and gather. +Fill with cotton to which a piece of tie wire has been attached and +pull close to wire and sew. Add as much cotton as necessary to procure +the right shape before finishing. + + +RAISINS-- + +These may be made from gathering a folded circle of plum-colored +material one-eighth of an inch from the edge, but used without filling +with cotton. Sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire with +brown gum tissue. Arrange in a cluster. Always warm the tissue before +using so that it will adhere. + + +GRAPES-- + +These are made the same as cherries, except a cluster would have several +sizes. They are beautiful made from black velvet. A cluster of grapes to +sew flat to hat may be made by covering different sizes of button molds +and arranging them on a hat to look like a cluster. + + + +MOURNING MILLINERY + +Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of +black crepe with a few folds of white crepe near the face. The covering +of crepe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the +soft appearance desired. The trimming is of milliner's folds or flat +flowers made of the crepe.[98-1] The mourning veils used may have a +simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. The applied hem is +much the handsomer finish. + + +APPLIED HEM ON A VEIL-- + +For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long +enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each +corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a +rectangular veil. + +Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running +stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat. Measure this +strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place where the fold must be +mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from this fold to within +one-quarter of an inch of the fold. Cut through both thicknesses. Sew +these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the +result will be a mitred corner. Each corner should be carefully planned +and mitred before sewing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down +toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately. Slip the +edge of the veil between, pin carefully in place, baste and slipstitch +the edges to the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same time. If +this work is carefully done, the result more than repays the time spent +upon it. + +The veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any +becoming way. It may form part of the covering of the hat, and is then +arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any +desired length. It makes a becoming background for the face. Mourning +millinery is not used as much as formerly, but those who desire to +adhere to the custom will find the style little changed. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 98-1: See chapter on "Flowers."] + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +REMODELING AND RENOVATING + + +STRAW SHAPES-- + +BRIM--Brush well to remove all the dust. If the brim is too wide, a few +rows of braid may be removed from the edge, and the edge refinished with +one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color. If it seems +necessary to use an edge wire, this last row of braid may be made to +cover it, or a bias fold of satin, silk, velvet, or ribbon may be sewed +over the wire. + +CROWN--When the crown of a straw hat is found to be too low for the +present style, the crown may be ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of +buckram sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed back to the +brim. Of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram. If +the crown is too high, a few rows of braid may be removed at the bottom +of the crown, enough to give the desired height. + + +TO PUT A STRAW HAT INTO SHAPE-- + +If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it +only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory +results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A +rounded crown can be made flat on top, and a slightly rolling brim can +be made into a straight brim by using this method. It is a joy to take +an old, discarded, battered straw hat and make it into a fresh-looking +and up-to-date hat, a piece of work which any one may well be proud of. + +Cut from a piece of heavy cardboard the exact shape and size of which +the crown top is to be made. Cut another the exact height of the crown +and long enough to fit around the head, allowing the ends to just meet. +Sew these pieces of cardboard together which will make a crown the exact +shape you wish. Dampen the straw crown sufficiently to make it very +pliable and pull it into shape over this cardboard crown. Turn the crown +upside down on a flat surface and place a weight in the crown. A +flatiron or a small stone jar will make a good weight. Bind the outside +firmly and smoothly with a cloth, pin in place, and leave to dry. After +it is thoroughly dry, remove the cloth, and before removing it from the +block, cover with a coating or two of some good coloring which may be +bought for the purpose. This can be procured in several colors, but must +be put on with a stiff brush and rubbed in well in order to produce an +even shade. + +If the brim is rolling and is to be made flat, dampen it thoroughly, +press it down flat on a smooth surface, and cover with weights; leave +until dry, when a few coats of coloring may be applied. If the brim is +separate from the crown, the hat may be completely changed by slipping +the brim down over the crown, leaving it an inch or so from the bottom +on one side or in the back, making a bandeau which lends itself to +trimming of flowers, ribbons, or malines. In this case the bottom of the +crown would require a wire sewed on at the edge to keep it in shape. If +a high luster is desired, a coating of shellac may be applied the last +thing before trimming. + + +LIGHT STRAW HATS-- + +Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of soap and water or +gasoline. If the hat is in need of bleaching, sulphur and water may be +used, or a commercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to use +according to printed directions. Two or three coatings of coloring will +change the color. Pleasing results are sometimes obtained by using two +different colors, one over the other. This, of course, requires +experience and should be tried out before using on a hat. + + +WHEN STRAW IS TO BE RE-SEWED-- + +Rip carefully from the foundation; brush and press carefully. Some straw +will not stand dampening, so try out a small piece first. Place it on a +heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side. + + +PANAMA HATS-- + +It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to a good professional +cleaner. A Panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of +an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material, such as georgette or +crepe de chine, finished off at the edge over a wire. The facing may be +put on top of the brim if desired. The entire crown is sometimes changed +by covering it with a figured chiffon drawn down tightly and finished at +the bottom with a band and bow of ribbon. + +Another change might be made by covering the entire crown with flower +petals sewed down flat and intermingled with green leaves. They should +then be covered with a layer or more of maline. This is a good way to +use up old flowers. The flowers will stand a lot of retouching with +color when they are veiled. + + +OLD BUCKRAM FRAMES-- + +When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove +all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of +cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A +break in buckram is difficult to remove; however, if new material is not +available, much may be done with the old. Do not remove the headsize +wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed. + +If the headsize wire is too large or too small, now is the time to +change it. If the general shape of the brim is to be changed, remove the +edge wire and trim to the required width. If it is to droop or roll, +slash the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire and lap +one-quarter of an inch at the edge. Slash in several places if +necessary. Sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with +a strip of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat. + +If a brim is to be made more flat or flaring, slash and add V-shaped +pieces of buckram. If the headsize is entirely too large, this may be +remedied by dividing the brim into halves. Remove the headsize wire and +the edge wire, cutting through from front to back. Lap and sew; make the +headsize wire the required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the outer +edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The same thing may be done to +the crown. If too large, divide into halves and lap the edges until it +is the required size, or a piece of material may be added to make the +crown larger. The crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base, +or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When a +fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old +covering, but it can sometimes be done. + + +BLOCKING OVER WIRE FRAMES-- + +If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it may be done by blocking +over a wire frame made for the purpose. The wire frame should have six +sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one inch apart, shaped +as desired. Old or new buckram, neteen, or any coarse material which has +been heavily starched, may be used. Wet the fabric thoroughly with warm +water. + +Block the crown first. Place the material over the crown and pull it +down until all the wrinkles are removed, pin closely to the headsize +wire all around. When dry, mark with a pencil all around close to the +headsize wire, remove from the frame, cut on the pencil mark and sew a +headsize wire on the edge. If there are marks of the wire to be removed, +hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly with a hot +iron. The brim is managed in the same way. Mark at the headsize, cut off +at this point one-half inch inside the mark, and sew a headsize wire on +the pencil mark. Mark at the edge wire, cut off at the pencil mark, and +finish with edge wire. + + +NEW BRIMS FOR OLD CROWNS-- + +If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the +wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any +fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette--an old, +half-worn waist will do nicely, using the back or sleeves, or any +portions that are not too badly worn. When a heavier crown is used, the +edge of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like the crown +sewed at the edge, or a row of straw when the crown is of straw braid. + + +FELT AND BEAVER HATS-- + +When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. To restore the gloss, rub +the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a +small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To complete the process, remove +the sandpaper and substitute a piece of velvet. Rub this on a hot iron, +then on beeswax. Continue the operation of rubbing the hat with the nap +until it is restored to its original freshness. The crown must be packed +with cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do satisfactory +work. If the brim of a felt or beaver hat needs cutting down at the +edge, mark with a piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut. Sew on +this line with an unthreaded sewing machine several times, and the felt +will be cut through and the edge broken off at this point. This looks +much better than when cut with shears or with a knife. + + +RENOVATION OF HAT COVERINGS AND LININGS-- + +To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well to remove the dust. +With the wrong side down, hold it over the spout of a tea-kettle of +rapidly boiling water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it +is passed back and forth over the steam. The great force of the steam +will raise the pile much more quickly than the method of using a damp +cloth over a hot iron. If the velvet after steaming is found to be still +too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain, it may be gathered a +half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the brim, or it +may be mirrored by ironing on the right side with a hot iron, always +ironing lightly one way, using a sweeping motion. Do not let the iron +rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark. + + +TO FRESHEN CREPE FOR MOURNING MILLINERY-- + +Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline +if necessary. Crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly +and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot +iron passed over it without touching it, but near enough so that a +slight amount of steam will dampen the crepe. Remove the cloth and allow +the crepe to dry in place. Crepe becomes shabby-looking quickly if not +given the best of care. + + +CLEANING, CURLING, AND TINTING FEATHERS-- + +To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few +spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times +until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air +till dry. A very light-colored or white feather may be tinted by +dissolving some oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing. + +To curl, draw the flues, a very few at a time, over a blunt knife. A +plume is rather difficult to sew on a hat and produce the desired +effect. The end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat, while +the tip of the plume should not be sewed close to the hat, otherwise it +will look stiff. + + +RIBBONS-- + +If soiled, they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap and water, using a +brush. Do not rub or wring. Hang up to drip dry, or wind tightly around +a bottle and leave to dry. Do not press until after twenty-four hours, +if cleaned in gasoline. To produce extra stiffness, rinse in a weak +solution of sugar and water. It is also very easy to change the color of +ribbons by using any of the commercial cold dyes. + + +FLOWERS-- + +If flowers are faded, they may be touched up with water-color. If they +are pink, rouge may be used effectively. If the edges are much frayed, +trim them slightly with the shears. Green leaves may be dipped in hot +paraffine to restore their gloss, or pressed with a warm iron without +paraffine. Even very imperfect flowers may be made to look well if +veiled with maline or georgette. + + +QUILLS-- + +Quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and +finger on which a small amount of vaseline or oil has been placed. A +quill may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea-kettle of +rapidly boiling water. Place a dull knife on the underside and press the +quill hard enough to make a sharp dent. Do this every half inch. If the +quill is sufficiently steamed this may be accomplished easily, and the +result is permanent. + + +WINGS-- + +Loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline +or a hair net of the same color. Wings may be covered with a coat of +shellac which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy look. + + +LACE-- + +Most laces may be washed in warm, soapy water. Press gently in the +hands--do not rub. Press the water out after having rinsed the lace well +in warm water. Shake gently and pin down smoothly on a sheet, being +careful to stretch and pin each scallop in place. Allow it to dry. If +necessary press slightly with a warm iron on the wrong side. Some laces +are greatly improved by pressing. + + +MALINES-- + +Malines may be used to good advantage, even if parts are badly worn and +faded. Place a thin, damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron. +Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board. + + + + + * * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note + + The following typographical errors were corrected. + + Page Change + 18 TO COVER SIDE CROWN changed to TO COVER SIDE CROWN-- + 108 CREPE changed to CREPE + 110 WINGS changed to WINGS-- + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKE YOUR OWN HATS*** + + +******* This file should be named 19740.txt or 19740.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/7/4/19740 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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