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diff --git a/19006-h/19006-h.htm b/19006-h/19006-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..02b3276 --- /dev/null +++ b/19006-h/19006-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3057 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers, by James J. H. Gregory. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + visibility: hidden; + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .bbox {border: solid 2px;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-top: + 0em; margin-right: 0em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them, by +James John Howard Gregory + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them + A Practical Treatise, Giving Full Details On Every Point, + Including Keeping And Marketing The Crop + +Author: James John Howard Gregory + +Release Date: August 8, 2006 [EBook #19006] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS: *** + + + + +Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images produced by Core Historical +Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <h5>New York<br /> + State College of Agriculture<br /> + At Cornell University<br /> + Ithaca, N. Y.<br /><br /> + + Library</h5> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><br /><br /></p> +<h1>CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS:</h1> +<p><br /><br /></p> +<h3><i>HOW TO GROW THEM</i>.</h3> + +<p><br /></p> + <h4>A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT, + INCLUDING KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.</h4> +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img002.jpg" alt="Cabbage Head" title="Cabbage Head" /></div> + +<p><br /></p> + <h4>BY</h4> + + <h2>JAMES J. H. GREGORY,</h2> + +<h4>AUTHOR OF WORKS ON SQUASH RAISING, ONION RAISING,<br /> +ETC., ETC.</h4> + + <h4>ORIGINAL INTRODUCER OF THE MARBLEHEAD, DEEP HEAD, WARREN, + ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING, AND REYNOLDS CABBAGES.</h4> +<p><br /></p> +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Boston</span>:<br />CASHMAN, KEATING & CO., PRINTERS,<br />1889.</p> + + + + +<p class='center'> + Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by<br /> + JAMES J. H. GREGORY,<br /> + In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><br /></p> +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'>PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Object of Treatise</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'><b>1</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Origin of Cabbage</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'><b>1</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">What a Cabbage is</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_2'><b>2</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Selecting the Soil</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_4'><b>4</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparing the Soil</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_5'><b>5</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Manure</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_6'><b>6</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">How to Apply the Manure</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_8'><b>8</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Making the Hills and Planting the Seed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Care of the Young Plants</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'><b>16</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Protecting the Plants from their Enemies</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Green Worm</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'><b>22</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Club, or Stump Root, or Maggot</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Care of the Growing Crop</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_29'><b>29</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Marketing the Crop</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Keeping Cabbage through the Winter</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Having Cabbage make Heads in Winter</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_39'><b>39</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Foreign Varieties of Cabbage</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_43'><b>43</b></a>-<a href='#Page_45'><b>45</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">American Varieties</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a>-<a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Savoy Varieties</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a>-<a href='#Page_63'><b>63</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Other Varieties</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_63'><b>63</b></a>-<a href='#Page_67'><b>67</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cabbage Greens</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#greens'><b>67</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cabbage for Stock</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_69'><b>69</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Raising Cabbage Seed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cooking Cabbage, Sour-Krout, etc.</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_75'><b>75</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cabbage under Glass</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_76'><b>76</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cold Frame and Hot-Bed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussels-Sprouts, Kale and Sea-Kale</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a></td></tr> +</table> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><br /><br /></p> +<h2>CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS.</h2> +<p><br /><br /></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>OBJECT OF THIS TREATISE.</h2> + + +<p>As a general, yet very thorough, response to inquiries from many of my +customers about cabbage raising, I have aimed in this treatise to tell +them all about the subject. The different inquiries made from time to +time have given me a pretty clear idea of the many heads under which +information is wanted; and it has been my aim to give this with the same +thoroughness of detail as in my little work on Squashes. I have +endeavored to talk in a very practical way, drawing from a large +observation and experience, and receiving, in describing varieties, some +valuable information from McIntosh's work, "The Book of the Garden."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE.</h2> + + +<p>Botanists tell us that all of the Cabbage family, which includes not +only every variety of cabbage, Red, White, and Savoy, but all the +cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and brussels sprouts, had their origin in +the wild cabbage of Europe (<i>Brassica oleracea</i>), a plant with green, +wavy leaves, much resembling charlock, found growing wild at Dover in +England, and other parts of Europe. This plant, says McIntosh, is mostly +confined to the sea-shore, and grows only on chalky or calcareous +soils.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> + +<p>Thus through the wisdom of the Great Father of us all, who occasionally +in his great garden allows vegetables to sport into a higher form of +life, and grants to some of these sports sufficient strength of +individuality to enable them to perpetuate themselves, and, at times, to +blend their individuality with that of other sports, we have the heading +cabbage in its numerous varieties, the creamy cauliflower, the feathery +kale, the curled savoy. On my own grounds from a strain of seed that had +been grown isolated for years, there recently came a plant that in its +structure closely resembled Brussels Sprouts, growing about two feet in +height, with a small head under each leaf. The cultivated cabbage was +first introduced into England by the Romans, and from there nearly all +the kinds cultivated in this country were originally brought. Those +which we consider as peculiarly American varieties, have only been made +so by years of careful improvement on the original imported sorts. The +characteristics of these varieties will be given farther on.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>WHAT A CABBAGE IS.</h2> + + +<p>If we cut vertically through the middle of the head, we shall find it +made up of successive layers of leaves, which grow smaller and smaller, +almost <i>ad infinitum</i>. Now, if we take a fruit bud from an apple-tree +and make a similar section of it, we shall find the same structure. If +we observe the development of the two, as spring advances, we shall find +another similarity (the looser the head the closer will be the +resemblance),—the outer leaves of each will unwrap and unfold, and a +flower stem will push out from each. Here we see that a cabbage is a +bud, a seed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> bud (as all fruit buds may be termed, the production of +seed being the primary object in nature, the fruit enclosing it playing +but a secondary part), the office of the leaves being to cover, protect, +and afterwards nourish the young seed shoot. The outer leaves which +surround the head appear to have the same office as the leaves which +surround the growing fruit bud, and that office closes with the first +year, as does that of the leaves surrounding fruit buds, when each die +and drop off. In my locality the public must have perceived more or less +clearly the analogy between the heads of cabbage and the buds of trees, +for when they speak of small heads they frequently call them "buds." +That the close wrapped leaves which make the cabbage head and surround +the seed germ, situated just in the middle of the head at the +termination of the stump, are necessary for its protection and nutrition +when young, is proved, I think, by the fact that those cabbages, the +heads of which are much decayed, when set out for seed, no matter how +sound the seed germ may be at the end of the stump, never make so large +or healthy a seed shoot as those do the heads of which are sound; as a +rule, after pushing a feeble growth, they die.</p> + +<p>For this reason I believe that the office of the head is similar to and +as necessary as that of the leaves which unwrap from around the blossom +buds of our fruit trees. It is true that the parallel cannot be fully +maintained, as the leaves which make up the cabbage head do not to an +equal degree unfold (particularly is this true of hard heads); yet they +exhibit a vitality of their own, which is seen in the deeper green color +the outer leaves soon attain, and the change from tenderness to +toughness in their struc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>ture: I think, therefore, that the degree of +failure in the parallel may be measured by the difference between a +higher and a lower form of organic life.</p> + +<p>Some advocate the economy of cutting off a large portion of the heads +when cabbages are set out for seed to use as food for stock. There is +certainly a great temptation, standing amid acres of large, solid, heads +in the early spring months, when green food of all kinds is scarce, to +cut and use such an immense amount of rich food, which, to the +inexperienced eye, appears to be utterly wasted if left to decay, dry, +and fall to the ground; but, for the reason given above, I have never +done so. It is possible that large heads may bear trimming to a degree +without injury to the seed crop; yet I should consider this an +experiment, and one to be tried with a good deal of caution.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>SELECTING THE SOIL.</h2> + + +<p>In some of the best cabbage-growing sections of the country, until +within a comparatively few years it was the very general belief that +cabbage would not do well on upland. Accordingly the cabbage patch would +be found on the lowest tillage land of the farm. No doubt, the lowest +soil being the richer from a gradual accumulation of the wash from the +upland, when manure was but sparingly used, cabbage would thrive better +there than elsewhere,—and not, as was generally held, because that +vegetable needed more moisture than any other crop. Cabbage can be +raised with success on any good corn land, provided such land is well +manured; and there is no more loss in seasons of drouth on such land +than there is in seasons of excessive moisture on the lower tillage land +of the farm. I wish I could preach a very loud<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> sermon to all my farmer +friends on the great value of liberal manuring to carry crops +successfully through the effects of a severe drouth. Crops on soil +precisely alike, with but a wall to separate them, will, in a very dry +season, present a striking difference,—the one being in fine vigor, and +the other "suffering from drouth," as the owner will tell you; but, in +reality, from want of food.</p> + +<p>The smaller varieties of cabbage will thrive well on either light or +strong soil, but the largest drumheads do best on strong soil. For the +<i>Brassica</i> family, including cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, etc., +there is no soil so suitable as freshly turned sod, provided the surface +is well fined by the harrow; it is well to have as stout a crop of +clover or grass, growing on this sod, when turned under, as possible, +and I incline to the belief that it would be a judicious investment to +start a thick growth of these by the application of guano to the surface +sufficiently long before turning the sod to get an extra growth of the +clover or grass. If the soil be very sandy in character, I would advise +that the variety planted be the Winnigstadt, which, in my experience, is +unexcelled for making a hard head under almost any conditions, however +unpropitious. Should the soil be naturally very wet it should be +underdrained, or stump foot will be very likely to appear, which is +death to all success.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>PREPARING THE SOIL.</h2> + + +<p>Should the soil be a heavy clay, a deep fall ploughing is best, that the +frosts of winter may disintegrate it; and should the plan be to raise an +early crop, this end will be promoted by fall ploughing, on any soil, as +the land will thereby be made drier in early<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> spring. In New England the +soil for cabbages should be ploughed as deep as the subsoil, and the +larger drumheads should be planted only on the deepest soil. If the +season should prove a favorable one, a good crop of cabbage may be grown +on sod broken up immediately after a crop of hay has been taken from it, +provided plenty of fine manure is harrowed in. One great risk here is +from the dry weather that usually prevails at that season, preventing +the prompt germination of the seed, or rooting of the plants. It is +prudent in such a case to have a good stock of plants, that such as die +may be promptly replaced. It is wise to plant the seed for these a week +earlier than the main crop, for when transplanted to fill the vacant +places it will take about a week for them to get well rooted.</p> + +<p>The manure may be spread on the surface of either sod or stubble land +and ploughed under, or be spread on the surface after ploughing and +thoroughly worked into the soil by the wheel harrow or cultivator. On +ploughed sod I have found nothing so satisfactory as the class of wheel +harrows, which not only cut the manure up fine and work it well under, +but by the same operation cut and pulverize the turf until the sod may +be left not over an inch in thickness. To do the work thus thoroughly +requires a yoke of oxen or a pair of stout horses. All large stones and +large pieces of turf that are torn up and brought to the surface should +be carted off before making the hills.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE MANURE.</h2> + + +<p>Any manure but hog manure for cabbage,—barn manure, rotten kelp, +night-soil, guano, fertilizers, wood<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> ashes, fish, salt, glue waste, hen +manure, slaughter-house manure. I have used all of these, and found +them all good when rightly applied. If pure hog manure is used it is apt +to produce that corpulent enlargement of the roots known in different +localities as "stump foot," "underground head," "finger and thumb;" but +I have found barn manure on which hogs have run, two hogs to each +animal, excellent. The cabbage is the rankest of feeders, and to perfect +the larger sort a most liberal allowance of the richest composts is +required. To grow the smaller varieties either barn-yard manure, guano, +fertilizers, or wood ashes, if the soil be in good condition, will +answer; though the richer and more abundant the manure the larger are +the cabbages, and the earlier the crop will mature.</p> + +<p>To perfect the large varieties of drumhead,—by which I mean to make +them grow to the greatest size possible,—I want a strong compost of +barn-yard manure, with night-soil and muck or fish-waste, and, if +possible, rotten kelp. A compost into which night-soil enters as a +component is best made by first covering a plot of ground, of easy +access, with soil or muck that has been exposed to a winter's frost, to +the depth of about eighteen inches, and raising around this a rim about +three feet in height, and thickness. Into this the night-soil is poured +from carts built for the purpose, until the receptacle is about +two-thirds full. Barn manure is now added, being dropped around and +covering the outer rim, and, if the supply is sufficient, on the top of +the heap also, on which it can be carted after cold weather sets in. +Early in spring, the entire mass should be pitched over, thoroughly +broken up with the bar and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> pick where frozen, and the frozen masses +thrown on the surface. In pitching over the mass, work the rim in +towards the middle of the heap. After the frozen lumps have thawed, give +the heap another pitching over, aiming to mix all the materials +thoroughly together, and make the entire mass as fine as possible. A +covering of sand, thrown over the heap, before the last pitching, will +help fine it.</p> + +<p>To produce a good crop of cabbages, with a compost of this quality, from +six to twelve cords will be required to the acre. If the land is in good +heart, by previous high cultivation, or the soil is naturally very +strong, six cords will give a fair crop of the small varieties; while, +with the same conditions, from nine to twelve cords to the acre will be +required to perfect the largest variety grown, the Marblehead Mammoth +Drumhead.</p> + +<p>Of the other kinds of manure named above, I will treat farther under the +head of:</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE.</h2> + + +<p>The manure is sometimes applied wholly in the hill, at other times +partly broadcast and partly in the hill. If the farmer desires to make +the utmost use of his manure for that season, it will be best to put +most of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather short; +but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year's +crop, he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to use +all my rich compost broadcast, and depend on guano, fertilizers, or hen +manure in the hill. Let all guano, if at all lumpy, like the Peruvian, +be sifted, and let all the hard lumps be reduced by pounding, until the +largest pieces shall not be larger than half a pea,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> before it is +brought upon the ground. My land being ready, the compost worked under +and the rows marked out, I select three trusty hands who can be relied +upon to follow faithfully my directions in applying so dangerous manure +as guano is in careless or ignorant hands; one takes a bucket of it, +and, if for large cabbage, drops as much as he can readily close in his +shut hand, where each hill is to be; if for small sorts, then about half +that quantity, spreading it over a circle about a foot in diameter; the +second man follows with a pronged hoe, or better yet, a six-tined fork, +with which he works the guano well into the soil, first turning it three +or four inches under the surface, and then stirring the soil <i>very +thoroughly</i> with the hoe or fork. Unless the guano (and this is also +true of most fertilizers) is faithfully mixed up with the soil, the seed +will not vegetate. Give the second man about an hour the start, and then +let the third man follow with the seed. Of other fertilizers, I use +about half as much again as of guano to each hill, and of hen manure a +heaping handful, after it has been finely broken up, and, if moist, +slightly mixed with dry earth. When salt is used, it should not be +depended on exclusively, but be used in connection with other manures, +at the rate of from ten to fifteen bushels to the acre, applied +broadcast over the ground, or thoroughly mixed with the manure before +that is applied; if dissolved in the manure, better yet. Salt itself is +not a manure. Its principal office is to change other materials into +plant food. Fish and glue waste are exceedingly powerful manures, very +rich in ammonia, and, if used the first season, they should be in +compost. It is best to handle fish waste, such as heads, entrails, +backbones,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> and liver waste, precisely like night soil. "Porgy cheese," +or "chum," the refuse, after pressing out the oil from menhaden and +halibut heads, and sometimes sold extensively for manure, is best +prepared for use by composting it with muck or loam, layer with layer, +at the rate of a barrel to every foot and a half, cord measure, of soil. +As soon as it shows some heat, turn it, and repeat the process, two or +three times, until it is well decomposed, when apply. Another excellent +way to use fish waste is to compost it with barn manure, in the open +fields. It will be best to have six inches of soil under the heap, and +not layer the fish with the lower half of the manure, for it strikes +down. Glue waste is a very coarse, lumpy manure, and requires a great +deal of severe manipulation, if it is to be applied the first season. A +better way is to compost it with soil, layer with layer, having each +layer about a foot in thickness, and so allow it to remain over until +the next season, before using. This will decompose most of the straw, +and break down the hard, tough lumps. In applying this to the crop, most +of it had better be used broadcast, as it is apt, at best, to be rather +too coarse and concentrated to be used liberally directly in the hill. +Slaughter-house manure should be treated much like glue manure.</p> + +<p>Mr. Proctor, of Beverly, has raised cabbage successfully on strong clay +soil, by spreading a compost of muck containing fish waste, in which the +fish is well decomposed, at the rate of two tons of the fish to an acre +of land, after plowing, and then, having made his furrows at the right +distance apart, harrowing the land thoroughly crossways with the +furrows. The result was, besides mixing the manure thor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>oughly with the +soil, to land an extra proportion of it in the furrows, which was +equivalent to manuring in the drill.</p> + +<p>Cabbage can be raised on fertilizers alone. I have raised some crops in +this way; but have been led to plow in from four to six cords of good +manure to the acre, and then use from five hundred to a thousand pounds +of some good fertilizer in the hill. The reason I prefer to use a +portion of the cabbage food in the form of manure, is, that I have +noticed that when the attempt is made to raise the larger drumhead +varieties on fertilizers only, the cabbages, just as the heads are well +formed, are apt to come nearly to a standstill. I explain this on the +supposition that they exhaust most of the fertilizer, or some one of the +ingredients that enter into it, during the earlier stage of growth; +perhaps from the fact that the food is in so easily digestible +condition, they use an over share of it, and the fact that those fed on +fertilizers only, tend to grow longer stumped than usual, appears to +give weight to this opinion. Though any good fertilizer is good for +cabbage, yet I prefer those compounded on the basis of an analysis of +the composition of the plants; they should contain the three +ingredients, nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in the proportion of +six, seven, five, taking them in the order in which I have written them.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED.</h2> + + +<p>The idea is quite prevalent that cabbages will not head up well except +the plants are started in beds, and then transplanted into the hills +where they are to mature. This is an error, so far as it applies to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> the +Northern States,—the largest and most experienced cultivators of +cabbage in New England usually dropping the seed directly where the +plant is to stand, unless they are first started under glass, or the +piece of land to be planted cannot be prepared in season to enable the +farmer to put his seed directly in the hill and yet give the cabbage +time sufficient to mature. Where the climate is unpropitious, or the +quantity of manure applied is insufficient, it is possible that +transplanting may promote heading. The advantages of planting directly +in the hill, are a saving of time, avoiding the risks incidental to +transplanting, and having all the piece start alike; for, when +transplanted, many die and have to be replaced, while some hesitate much +longer than others before starting, thus making a want of uniformity in +the maturing of the crop. There is, also, this advantage, there being +several plants in each hill, the cut-worm has to depredate pretty +severely before he really injures the piece; again, should the seed not +vegetate in any of the hills, every farmer will appreciate the advantage +of having healthy plants growing so near at hand that they can be +transferred to the vacant spaces with their roots so undisturbed that +their growth is hardly checked. In addition to the labor of +transplanting saved by this plan, the great check that plants always +receive when so treated is prevented, and also the extra risks that +occur should a season of drouth follow. It is the belief of some +farmers, that plants growing where the seed was planted are less liable +to be destroyed by the cut-worm than those that have been transplanted. +When planning to raise late cabbage on upland, I sow a portion of the +seed on a moist spot, or, in case a portion of the land is moist, I +plant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> the hills on such land with an extra quantity of seed, that I may +have enough plants for the whole piece, should the weather prove to be +too dry for the seed to vegetate on the dryer portions of it. It is wise +to sow these extra plants about a week earlier, for they will be put +back about a week by transplanting them.</p> + +<p>Some of our best farmers drill their seed in with a sowing machine, such +as is used for onions, carrots, and other vegetable crops. This is a +very expeditious way, and has the advantage of leaving the plants in +rows instead of bunches, as in the hill system, and thus enables the hoe +to do most of the work of thinning. It has also this advantage: each +plant being by itself can be left much longer before thinning, and yet +not grow long in the stump, thus making it available for transplanting, +or for sale in the market, for a longer period.</p> + +<p>The usual way of preparing the hills is to strike out furrows with a +small, one-horse plough, as far apart as the rows are to be. As it is +very important that the rows should be as straight as practicable, it is +a good plan to run back once in each furrow, particularly on sod land +where the plough will be apt to catch in the turf and jump out of line. +A manure team follows, containing the dressing for the hills, which has +previously been pitched over and beaten up until all the ingredients are +fine and well mixed. This team is so driven, if possible, as to avoid +running in the furrows. Two or three hands follow with forks or shovels, +pitching the manure into the furrows at the distance apart that has been +determined on for the hills. How far apart these are to be will depend +on the varieties, from eighteen inches to four feet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> On land that has +been very highly manured for a series of years, cabbage can be planted +nearer than on land that has been under the plow but a few years. For +the distance apart for different varieties see farther on. The manure is +levelled with hoes, a little soil is drawn over it, and a slight stamp +with the back of the hoe is given to level this soil, and, at the same +time, to mark the hill. The planter follows with seed in a tin box, or +any small vessel having a broad bottom, and taking a small pinch between +the thumb and forefinger he gives a slight scratch with the remaining +fingers of the same hand, and dropping in about half a dozen seed covers +them half an inch deep with a sweep of the hand, and packs the earth by +a gentle pat with the open palm to keep the moisture in the ground and +thus promote the vegetation of the seed. With care a quarter of a pound +of seed will plant an acre, when dropped directly in the hills; but half +a pound is the common allowance, as there is usually some waste from +spilling, while most laborers plant with a free hand.</p> + +<p>The soil over the hills being very light and porous, careless hands are +apt to drop the seed too deep. Care should be taken not to drop the seed +all in one spot, but to scatter them over a surface of two or three +inches square, that each plant may have room to develop without crowding +its neighbors.</p> + +<p>If the seed is planted in a line instead of in a mass the plants can be +left longer before the final thinning without danger of growing tall and +weak.</p> + +<p>If the seed is to be drilled in, it will be necessary to scatter the +manure all along the furrows, then cover with a plough, roughly leveling +with a rake.</p> + +<p>Should the compost applied to the hills be very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> concentrated, it will +be apt to produce stump foot; it will, therefore, be safest in such +cases to hollow out the middle with the corner of the hoe, or draw the +hoe through and fill in with earth, that the roots of the young plants +may not come in direct contact with the compost as soon as they begin to +push.</p> + +<p>When guano or phosphates are used in the hills it will be well to mark +out the rows with a plough, and then, where each hill is to be, fill in +the soil level to the surface with a hoe, before applying them. I have, +in a previous paragraph, given full instructions how to apply these. Hen +manure, if moist, should be broken up very fine, and be mixed with some +dry earth to prevent it from again lumping together, and the mixture +applied in sufficient quantity to make an equivalent of a heaping +handful of pure hen manure to each hill. Any liquid manure is excellent +for the cabbage crop; but it should be well diluted, or it will be +likely to produce stump foot.</p> + +<p>Cabbage seed of almost all varieties are nearly round in form, but are +not so spherical as turnip seed. I note, however, that seed of the +Savoys are nearly oval. In color they are light brown when first +gathered, but gradually turn dark brown if not gathered too early. An +ounce contains nearly ten thousand seed, but should not be relied upon +for many over two thousand good plants, and these are available for +about as many hills only when raised in beds and transplanted; when +dropped directly in the hills it will take not far from eight ounces of +the larger sorts to plant an acre, and of the smaller cabbage rather +more than this. Cabbage seed when well cured and kept in close bags will +retain their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> vitality four or five years; old gardeners prefer seed of +all the cabbage family two or three years old.</p> + +<p>When the plan is to raise the young plants in beds to be transplanted, +the ground selected for the beds should be of rich soil; this should be +very thoroughly dug, and the surface worked and raked very fine, every +stone and lump of earth being removed. Now sprinkle the seed evenly over +the bed and gently rake in just under the surface, compacting the soil +by pressure with a board. As soon as the young plants appear, sprinkle +them with air-slaked lime. Transplant when three or four inches high, +being very careful not to let the plants get tall and weak.</p> + +<p>For late cabbage, in the latitude of Boston, to have cabbages ready for +market about the first of November, the Marblehead Mammoth should be +planted the 20th of May, other late drumheads from June 1st to June +12th, provided the plants are not to be transplanted; otherwise a week +earlier. In those localities where the growing season is later, the seed +should be planted proportionally later.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS.</h2> + + +<p>In four or five days, if the weather is propitious, the young plants +will begin to break ground, presenting at the surface two leaves, which +together make nearly a square, like the first leaves of turnips or +radishes. As soon as the third leaf is developed, go over the piece, and +boldly thin out the plants. Wherever they are very thick, pull a mass of +them with the fingers and thumb, being careful to fill up the hole made +with fine earth. After the fourth leaf is developed, go over the piece +again and thin still more; you need specially to guard against a +slender,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> weak growth, which will happen when the plants are too +crowded. In thinning, leave the short-stumped plants, and leave them as +far apart in the hill as possible, that they may not shade each other, +or so interfere in growing as to make long stumps. If there is any +market for young plants, thousands can be sold from an acre when the +seed are planted in the hill; but in doing this bear in mind that your +principal object is to raise cabbages, and to succeed in this the young +plants must on no account be allowed to stand so long together in the +hills as to crowd each other, making a tall, weak, slender +growth,—getting "long-legged," as the farmers call it.</p> + +<p>If the manure in any of the hills is too strong, the fact will be known +by its effects on the plants, which will be checked in their growth, and +be of a darker green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away the +earth from the roots of such with the fingers, and draw around fresh +earth; or, what is as well or better, transplant a healthy plant just on +the edge of the hill. When the plants are finger high they are of a good +size to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. When +transplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and do not begin until +sufficient rain has fallen to moisten the earth around the roots, which +will make it more likely to adhere to them when taken up. Take up the +young plants by running the finger or a trowel under them; put these +into a flat basket or box, and in transplanting set them to the same +depth they originally grew, pressing the earth a little about the roots.</p> + +<p>If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry spell, as usually +happens, select the latter part of the afternoon, if practicable, and, +making holes with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> dibble, or any pointed stick an inch and a half in +diameter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with water; and +as soon as the water is about soaked away, beginning with the hole first +filled, set out your plants. The evaporation of the moisture below the +roots will keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants have +great tenacity of life, and will rally and grow when they appear to be +dead; the leaves may all die, and dry up like hay, but if the stump +stands erect and the unfolded leaf at the top of the stump is alive, the +plant will usually survive. When the plants are quite large, they may be +used successfully by cutting or breaking off the larger leaves. Some +advocate wilting the plants before transplanting, piling them in the +cellar a few days before setting them out, to toughen them and get a new +setting of fine roots; others challenge their vigor by making it a rule +to do all transplanting under the heat of mid-day. I think there is not +much of reason in this latter course. The young plants can be set out +almost as fast as a man can walk, by holding the roots close to one side +of the hole made by the dibble, and at the same moment pressing earth +against them with the other hand.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES.</h2> + + +<p>As soon as they have broken through the soil, an enemy awaits them in +the small black insect commonly known as the cabbage or turnip fly, +beetle, or flea. This insect, though so small as to appear to the eye as +a black dot, is very voracious and surprisingly active. He apparently +feeds on the juice of the young plant, perforating it with small holes +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> size of a pin point. He is so active when disturbed that his +motions cannot be followed by the eye, and his sense of danger is so +keen that only by cautiously approaching the plant can he be seen at +all. The delay of a single day in protecting the young plants from his +ravages will sometimes be the destruction of nearly the entire piece. +Wood ashes and air-slaked lime, sprinkled upon the plants while the +leaves are moist from either rain or dew, afford almost complete +protection. The lime or ashes should be applied as soon as the plant can +be seen, for then, when they are in their tenderest condition, the fly +is most destructive. I am not certain that the alkaline nature of these +affords the protection, or whether a mere covering by common dust might +not answer equally well. Should the covering be washed off by rain, +apply it anew immediately after the rain has ceased, and so continue to +keep the young plants covered until the third or fourth leaves are +developed when they will have become too tough to serve as food for this +insect enemy.</p> + +<p>A new enemy much dreaded by all cabbage raisers will begin to make his +appearance about the time the flea disappears, known as the cut-worm. +This worm is of a dusky brown color, with a dark colored head, and +varies in size up to about two inches in length. He burrows in the +ground just below the surface, is slow of motion, and does his +mischievous work at night, gnawing off the young plants close at the +surface of the ground. This enemy is hard to battle with. If the patch +be small, these worms can be scratched out of their hiding places by +pulling the earth carefully away the following morning for a few inches +around the stump of the plant destroyed, when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> the rascals will usually +be found half coiled together. Dropping a little wood ashes around the +plants close to the stumps is one of the best of remedies; its alkaline +properties burning his nose I presume. A tunnel of paper put around the +stump but not touching it, and sunk just below the surface, is +recommended as efficacious; and from the habits of the worm I should +think it would prove so. Perpendicular holes four inches deep and an +inch in diameter is said to catch and hold them as effectively as do the +pit falls of Africa the wild animals. Late planted cabbage will suffer +little or none from this pest, as he disappears about the middle of +June. Some seasons they are remarkably numerous, making it necessary to +replant portions of the cabbage patch several times over. I have heard +of as many as twenty being dug at different times the same season out of +one cabbage hill. The farmer who tilled that patch earned his dollars. +When the cabbage has a stump the size of a pipe stem it is beyond the +destructive ravages of the cut-worm, and should it escape stump foot has +usually quite a period of growth free from the attacks of enemies. +Should the season prove unpropitious and the plant be checked in its +growth, it will be apt to become "lousy," as the farmers term it, +referring to its condition when attacked by a small green insect known +as aphidæ, which preys upon it in myriads; when this is the case the +leaves lose their bright green, turn of a bluish cast, the leaf stocks +lose somewhat of their supporting powers, the leaves curl up into +irregular shapes, and the lower layer turns black and drops off, while +the ground under the plant appears covered with the casts or bodies of +the insects as with a white powder. When in this condition the plants +are in a very bad way.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> + +<p>Considering the circumstances under which this insect appears, usually +in a very dry season, I hold that it is rather the product than the +cause of disease, as with the bark louse on our apple-trees; as a remedy +I advocate sprinkling the plants with air-slaked lime, watering, if +possible, and a frequent and thorough stirring of the soil with the +cultivator and hoe. The better the opportunities the cabbage have to +develop themselves through high manuring, sufficient moisture, good +drainage, and thorough cultivation, the less liable they are to be +"lousy." As the season advances there will sometimes be found patches +eaten out of the leaves, leaving nothing but the skeleton of leaf veins; +an examination will show a band of caterpillars of a light green color +at work, who feed in a compact mass, oftentimes a square, with as much +regularity as though under the best of military discipline. The readiest +way to dispose of them is to break off the leaf and crush them under +foot. The common large red caterpillar occasionally preys on the plants, +eating large holes in the leaves, especially about the head. When the +cabbage plot is bordered by grass land, in seasons when grasshoppers are +plenty, they will frequently destroy the outer rows, puncturing the +leaves with small holes, and feeding on them until little besides their +skeletons remain. In isolated locations rabbits and other vegetable +feeders sometimes commit depredations. The snare and the shot-gun are +the remedy for these.</p> + +<p>Other insects that prey upon the cabbage tribe, in their caterpillar +state, are the cabbage moth, white-line, brown-eyed moth, large white +garden butterfly, white and green veined butterfly. All of these produce +caterpillars, which can be destroyed either by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> application of +air-slaked lime, or by removing the leaves infested and crushing the +intruders under foot. The cabbage-fly, father-long-legs, the millipedes, +the blue cabbage-fly, brassy cabbage-flea, and two or three other insect +enemies are mentioned by McIntosh as infesting the cabbage fields of +England; also three species of fungi known as white rust, mildew, and +<i>cylindrosporium concentricum</i>; these last are destroyed by the +sprinkling of air-slaked lime on the leaves. In this country, along the +sea coast of the northern section, in open-ground cultivation, there is +comparatively but little injury done by these marauders, which are the +cause of so much annoyance and loss to our English cousins.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE GREEN WORM.</h2> + + +<p>A new and troublesome enemy to the cabbage tribe which has made its +appearance within a few years, and spread rapidly over a large section +of the country, is a green worm, <i>Anthomia brassicæ</i>. This pest infests +the cabbage tribe at all stages of its growth; it is believed to have +been introduced into this country from Europe, by the way of Canada, +where it was probably brought in a lot of cabbage. It is the caterpillar +of a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. In Europe, this +butterfly is preyed on by two or more parasites, which keep it somewhat +in check; but its remarkably rapid increase in this country, causing a +wail of lamentation to rise in a single season from the cabbage growers +over areas of tens of thousands of square miles, proved that when it +first appeared it had reached this country without its attendant +parasites.</p> + +<p>Besides this green worm, there are found in Europe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> four varieties of +caterpillar variously marked, the caterpillars from all of which make +great havoc among the cabbage tribe.</p> + +<p>The most effective destroyer of this, and about every other insect pest, +is what is known as the "Kerosene Emulsion." This is made by churning +common kerosene with milk or soap until it is diffused through the +liquid.</p> + +<p>Take one quart of kerosene oil and pour it into a pint of hot water in +which an ounce of common soap has been dissolved; churn this briskly +while hot (a force pump is excellent for this), and, when well mixed, +which will be in a few minutes, it will be of a creamy consistency; mix +one quart to ten or twelve of cold water, and spray or sprinkle it over +the plants with a force-pump syringe or a whisk broom.</p> + +<p>Another remedy is pyrethrum. Use that which is fresh; either blowing it +on in a dry state with a bellows, wherever the worm appears, or using it +diluted, at the rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons of water; +applying as with the kerosene emulsion. Mr. A. S. Fuller, who is good +authority on garden matters, succeeds by applying tar-water. Place a +couple of quarts of coal tar in a barrel and fill with water; let it +stand forty-eight hours, then dip off, and apply with a watering-pot, or +syringe.</p> + +<p>Chickens allowed to run freely among the growing plants, the hen being +confined in a movable coop, if once attracted to them will fatten on +them. This remedy might answer very well for small plots. Large areas in +cabbage, in proportion to their size are, as a rule, far less injured by +insect enemies than small patches. The worm is of late years less +troublesome in the North than formerly.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CLUB OR STUMP FOOT AND MAGGOT.</h2> + + +<p>The great dread of every cabbage grower is a disease of the branching +roots, producing a bunchy, gland-like enlargement, known in different +localities under the name of club foot, stump foot, underground head, +finger and thumb. The result is a check in the ascent of the sap, which +causes a defective vitality. There are two theories as to the origin of +club foot; one that it is a disease caused by poor soil, bad +cultivation, and unsuitable manures; the other that the injury is done +by an insect enemy, <i>Curculio contractus</i>. It is held by some that the +maggots at the root are the progeny of the cabbage flea. This I doubt. +This insect, "piercing the skin of the root, deposits its eggs in the +holes, lives during a time on the sap of the plant, and then escapes and +buries itself for a time in the soil."</p> + +<p>If the wart, or gland-like excrescence, is seen while transplanting, +throw all such plants away, unless your supply is short; in such case, +carefully trim off all the diseased portions with a sharp knife. If the +disease is in the growing crop, it will be made evident by the drooping +of the leaves under the mid-day sun, leaves of diseased plants drooping +more than those of healthy ones, while they will usually have a bluer +cast. Should this disease show itself, set the cultivator going +immediately, and follow with the hoe, drawing up fresh earth around the +plants, which will encourage them to form new fibrous roots; should they +do this freely, the plants will be saved, as the attacks of the insect +are usually confined to the coarse, branching roots. Should the disease +prevail as late as when the plants have reached half their growth,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> the +chances are decidedly against raising a paying crop.</p> + +<p>When the land planted is too wet, or the manure in the hill is too +strong, this dreaded disease is liable to be found on any soil; but it +is most likely to manifest itself on soils that have been previously +cropped with cabbage, turnip, or some other member of the Brassica +family.</p> + +<p>Farmers find that, as a rule, <i>it is not safe to follow cabbage, ruta +baga, or any of the Brassica family, with cabbage, unless three or four +years have intervened between the crops</i>; and I have known an instance +in growing the Marblehead Mammoth, where, though five years had +intervened, that portion of the piece occupied by the previous crop +could be distinctly marked off by the presence of club-foot.</p> + +<p>Singular as it may appear, old gardens are an exception to this rule. +While it is next to impossible to raise, in old gardens, a fair turnip, +free from club-foot, cabbages may be raised year after year on the same +soil with impunity, or, at least, with but trifling injury from that +disease. This seems to prove, contrary to English authority, that +club-foot in the turnip tribe is the effect of a different cause from +the same disease in the cabbage family.</p> + +<p>There is another position taken by Stephens in his "Book of the Farm," +which facts seem to disprove. He puts forth the theory that "all such +diseases arise from poverty of the soil, either from want of manure when +the soil is naturally poor, or rendered effete by over-cropping." There +is a farm on a neck of land belonging to this town (Marblehead, Mass.), +which has peculiar advantages for collecting sea kelp and sea moss, and +these manures are there used most lib<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>erally, particularly in the +cultivation of cabbage, from eight to twelve cords of rotten kelp, which +is stronger than barn manure, and more suitable food for cabbage, being +used to the acre. A few years ago, on a change of tenants, the new +incumbent heavily manured a piece for cabbage, and planted it; but, as +the season advanced, stump-foot developed in every cabbage on one side +of the piece, while all the remainder were healthy. Upon inquiry, he +learned that, by mistake, he had overlapped the cabbage plot of last +season just so far as the stump-foot extended. In this instance, it +could not have been that the cabbage suffered for want of food; for, not +only was the piece heavily manured that year and the year previous, but +it had been liberally manured through a series of years, and, to a large +extent, with the manure which, of all others, the cabbage tribe delight +in, rotten kelp and sea mosses. I have known other instances where soil, +naturally quite strong, and kept heavily manured for a series of years, +has shown stump-foot when cabbage were planted, with intervals of two +and three years between. My theory is, that the <i>mere presence of the +cabbage</i> causes stump-foot on succeeding crops grown on the same soil. +This is proved by the fact that where a piece of land in grass, close +adjoining a piece of growing cabbage, had been used for stripping them +for market, when this was broken up the next season and planted to +cabbage, stump-foot appeared only on that portion where the waste leaves +fell the year previous. I have another instance to the same point, told +me by an observing farmer, that, on a piece of sod land, on which he ran +his cultivator the year previous, when turning his horse every time he +had cultivated a row, he had stump-footed cabbage the next<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> season just +as far as that cultivator went, dragging, of course, a few leaves and a +little earth from the cabbage piece with it. Still, though the mere +presence of cabbage causes stump-foot, it is a fact, that, under certain +conditions, cabbage can be grown on the same piece of land year after +year successfully, with but very little trouble from stump-foot. In this +town (Marblehead), though, as I have stated, we cannot, on our farms, +follow cabbage with cabbage, even with the highest of manuring and +cultivation, yet in the gardens of the town, on the same kind of soil +(and our soil is green stone and syenite, not naturally containing +lime), there are instances where cabbage has been successfully followed +by cabbage, on the same spot, for a quarter of a century and more. In +the garden of an aged citizen of this town, cabbages have been raised +<i>on the same spot of land</i> for over half a century.</p> + +<p>The cause of stump foot cannot, therefore, be found in the poverty of +the soil, either from want of manure or its having been rendered effete +from over cropping. It is evident that by long cultivation soils +gradually have diffused through them something that proves inimical to +the disease that produces stump foot. I will suggest as probable that +the protection is afforded by the presence of some alkali that old +gardens are constantly acquiring through house waste which is always +finding its way there, particularly the slops from the sink, which +abound in potash. This is rendered further probable from the fact given +by Mr. Peter Henderson, that, on soils in this vicinity, naturally +abounding in lime, cabbage can be raised year following year with almost +immunity from stump foot. He ascribes this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> to the effects of lime in +the soil derived from marine shells, and recommends that lime from bones +be used to secure the same protection; but the lime that enters into the +composition of marine shells is for the most part carbonate of lime, +whereas the greater portion of that which enters into the composition of +bones is phosphate of lime. Common air-slaked lime is almost pure +carbonate of lime, and hence comes nearer to the composition of marine +shells than lime from bones, and, being much cheaper, would appear to be +preferable.</p> + +<p>An able farmer told me that by using wood ashes liberally he could +follow with cabbage the next season on the same piece. One experiment of +my own in this direction did not prove successful, where ashes at the +rate of two hundred bushels to the acre were used; and I have an +impression that I have read of a like want of success after quite +liberal applications of lime. In a more recent experiment, on a gravelly +loam on one of my seed farms in Middleton, Mass., where two hundred +bushels of unleached ashes were used per acre, three-fourths broadcast, +I have had complete success, raising as good a crop as I ever grew the +second year on the same land, without a single stump foot on half an +acre. Still, it remains evident, I think, that nature prevents stump +foot by the diffusing of alkalies through the soil, and I mistrust that +the reason why we sometimes fail with the same remedies is that we have +them mixed, rather than intimately combined, with the particles of soil.</p> + +<p>The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by a maggot, though +there is no club root present. A remedy for this is said to be in the +burying of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> small piece of bi-sulphide of carbon within a few inches +of the diseased plant. I have never tried it, but know that there is no +better insecticide.</p> + +<p>As I have stated under another head, an attack of club foot is almost +sure to follow the use of pure hog manure, whether it be used broadcast +or in the hill. About ten years ago I ventured to use hog manure nearly +pure, spread broadcast and ploughed in. Stump foot soon showed itself. I +cultivated and hoed the cabbage thoroughly; then, as they still appeared +sickly, I had the entire piece thoroughly dug over with a six-tined +fork, pushing it as deep or deeper into the soil than the plough had +gone, to bring up the manure to the surface; but all was of no use; I +lost the entire crop. Yet, on another occasion, stable manure on which +hogs had been kept at the rate of two hogs to each animal, gave me one +of the finest lots of cabbage I ever raised.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CARE OF THE GROWING CROP.</h2> + + +<p>As soon as the young plants are large enough to be seen with the naked +eye, in with the cultivator and go and return once in each row, being +careful not to have any lumps of earth cover the plants. Follow the +cultivator immediately with the hoe, loosening the soil about the hills. +The old rule with farmers is to cultivate and hoe cabbage three times +during their growth, and it is a rule that works very well where the +crop is in good growing condition; but if the manure is deficient, the +soil bakes, or the plants show signs of disease, then cultivate and hoe +once or twice extra. "Hoe cabbage when wet," is another farmer's axiom. +In a small garden patch the soil may be stirred among the plants as +often as may be con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>venient: it can do no harm; cabbages relish tending, +though it is not necessary to do this every day, as one enthusiastic +cultivator evidently thought, who declared that, by hoeing his cabbages +every morning, he had succeeded in raising capital heads.</p> + +<p>If a season of drouth occurs when the cabbages have begun to head, the +heads will harden prematurely; and then should a heavy rain fall, they +will start to make a new growth, and the consequence will be many of +them will split. Split or bursted cabbage are a source of great loss to +the farmer, and this should be carefully guarded against by going +frequently over the piece when the heads are setting, and starting every +cabbage that appears to be about mature. A stout-pronged potato hoe +applied just under the leaves, and a pull given sufficient to start the +roots on one side, will accomplish what is needed. If cabbage that have +once been started seem still inclined to burst, start the roots on the +other side. Instead of a hoe they may be pushed over with the foot, or +with the hand. Frequently, heads that are thus started will grow to +double the size they had attained when about to burst. There is a marked +difference in this habit in different varieties of cabbage. I find that +the Hard-heading is less inclined to burst its head than any of the +kinds I raise.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>MARKETING THE CROP.</h2> + + +<p>When preparing for market cabbages that have been kept over winter, +particularly if they are marketed late in the season, the edges of the +leaves of some of the heads will be found to be more or less decayed; do +not strip such leaves off, but with a sharp knife cut clean off the +decayed edges. The earlier the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> variety the sooner it needs to be +marketed, for, as a rule, cabbages push their shoots in the spring in +the order of their earliness. If they have not been sufficiently +protected from the cold, the stumps will often rot off close to the +head, and sometimes the rot will include the part of the stump that +enters the head. If the watery-looking portion can be cut clean out, the +head is salable; otherwise it will be apt to have an unpleasant flavor +when cooked. As a rule, cabbages for marketing should be trimmed into as +compact a form as possible; the heads should be cut off close to the +stump, leaving two or three spare leaves to protect them. They may be +brought out of the piece in bushel baskets, and be piled on the wagon as +high as a hay stack, being kept in place by a stout canvas sheet tied +closely down. In the markets of Boston, in the fall of the year, they +are usually sold at a price agreed upon by the hundred head; this will +vary not only with the size and quality of the cabbage, but with the +season, the crop, and the quality in market on that particular day. +Within a few years I have known the range of price for the Stone Mason +or Fottler cabbage, equal in size and quality, to be from $3 to $17 per +hundred; for the Marblehead Mammoth from $6 to $25 per hundred. Cabbages +brought to market in the spring are usually sold by weight or by the +barrel, at from $1 to $4 per hundred pounds.</p> + +<p>The earliest cabbages carried to market sometimes bring extraordinary +prices; and this has created a keen competition among market gardeners, +each striving to produce the earliest, a difference of a week in +marketing oftentimes making a difference of one half in the profits of +the crop. Capt. Wyman, who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> controlled the Early Wyman cabbage for +several years, sold some seasons thirty thousand heads if my memory +serves me, at pretty much his own price. As a rule, it is the very early +and the very late cabbages that sell most profitably. Should the market +for very late cabbages prove a poor one, the farmer is not compelled to +sell them, no matter at what sacrifice, as would be the case a month +earlier; he can pit them, and so keep them over to the early spring +market which is almost always a profitable one. In marketing in spring +it should be the aim to make sale before the crops of spring greens +become plenty, as these replace the cabbage on many tables. By starting +cabbage in hot beds a crop of celery or squashes may follow them the +same season.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER.</h2> + + +<p>In the comparatively mild climate of England, where there are but few +days in the winter months that the ground remains frozen to any depth, +the hardy cabbage grows all seasons of the year, and turnips left during +winter standing in the ground are fed to sheep by yarding them over the +different portions of the field. With the same impunity, in the southern +portion of our own country, the cabbages are left unprotected during the +winter months; and, in the warmer portions of the South they are +principally a winter crop. As we advance farther North, we find that the +degree of protection needed is afforded by running the plough along each +side of the rows, turning the earth against them, and dropping a little +litter on top of the heads. As we advance still farther northward, we +find sufficient protection given by but little more than a rough roof of +boards thrown over the heads,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> after removing the cabbages to a +sheltered spot and setting them in the ground as near together as they +will stand without being in contact, with the tops of the heads just +level with the surface.</p> + +<p>In the latitude of central New England, cabbages are not secure from +injury from frost with less than a foot of earth thrown over the heads. +In mild winters a covering of half that depth will be sufficient; but as +we have no prophets to foretell our mild winters, a foot of earth is +safer than six inches. Where eel-grass can be procured along the sea +coast, or there is straw or coarse hay to spare, the better plan is to +cover with about six inches of earth, and when this is frozen +sufficiently hard to bear a man's weight (which is usually about +Thanksgiving time), to scatter over it the eel-grass, forest leaves, +straw, or coarse hay, to the depth of another six inches. Eel-grass, +which grows on the sandy flats under the ocean along the coast, is +preferred to any other covering as it lays light and keeps in dead air +which is a non-conductor of heat. Forest leaves are next in value; but +snow and water are apt to get among these and freezing solid destroy +most of their protecting value. When I use forest leaves, I cover them +with coarse hay, and add branches of trees to prevent its being blown +away. In keeping cabbages through the winter, three general facts should +be borne in mind, viz.: that repeated freezing and thawing will cause +them to rot; that excessive moisture or warmth will also cause rot; +while a dry air, such as is found in most cellars, will abstract +moisture from the leaves, injure the flavor of the cabbage, and cause +some of the heads to wilt, and the harder heads to waste. In the Middle +States we have mostly to fear the wet of winter, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> the plan for +keeping for that section should, therefore, have particularly in view +protection from moisture, while in the Northern States we have to fear +the cold of winter, and, consequently, our plan must there have +specially in view protection from cold.</p> + +<p>When storing for winter, select a dry day, if possible, sufficiently +long after rainy weather to have the leaves free of water,—otherwise +they will spout it on to you, and make you the wettest and muddiest +scarecrow ever seen off a farm,—then strip all the outer leaves from +the head but the two last rows, which are needed to protect it. This may +be readily done by drawing in these two rows toward the head with the +left hand, while a blow is struck against the remaining leaves with the +fist of the right hand. Next pull up the cabbages, which, if they are of +the largest varieties, may be expeditiously done by a potato hoe. If +they are not intended for seed purposes, stand the heads down and stumps +up until the earth on the roots is somewhat dry, when it can be mostly +removed by sharp blows against the stump given with a stout stick. In +loading do not bruise the heads. Select the place for keeping them in a +dry, level location, and, if in the North, a southern exposure, where no +water can stand and there can be no wash. To make the pit, run the +plough along from two to four furrows, and throw out the soil with the +shovel to the requisite depth, which may be from six to ten inches; now, +if the design is to roof over the pit, the cabbages may be put in as +thickly as they will stand; if the heads are solid they may be either +head up or stump up, and two layers deep; but if the heads are soft, +then heads up and one deep, and not crowded very close, that they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> may +have room to make heads during the winter. Having excavated an area +twelve by six feet, set a couple of posts in the ground midway at each +end, projecting about five feet above the surface; connect the two by a +joist secured firmly to the top of each, and against this, extending to +the ground just outside the pit, lay slabs, boards or poles, and cover +the roof that will be thus formed with six inches of straw or old hay, +and, if in the North, throw six or eight inches of earth over this. +Leave one end open for entrance and to air the pit, closing the other +end with straw or hay. In the North close both ends, opening one of them +occasionally in mild weather.</p> + +<p>When cabbages are pitted on a large scale this system of roofing is too +costly and too cumbersome. A few thousand may be kept in a cool root +cellar, by putting one layer heads down, and standing another layer +heads up between these. Within a few years farmers in the vicinity of +Lowell, Mass., have preserved their cabbages over winter, on a large +scale, by a new method, with results that have been very satisfactory. +They cut off that portion of the stump which contains the root; strip +off most of the outer leaves, and then pile the cabbages in piles, six +or eight feet high, in double rows, with boards to keep them apart, in +cool cellars, which are built half out of ground. The temperature of +these, by the judicious opening and closing of windows, is kept as +nearly as possibly at the freezing point. The common practice in the +North, when many thousands are to be stored for winter and spring sales, +is to select a southern exposure having the protection of a fence or +wall, if practicable, and, turning furrows with the plough, throw out +the earth with shovels, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> the depth of about six inches; the cabbages, +stripped as before described, are then stored closely together, and +straw or coarse hay is thrown over them to the depth of a foot or +eighteen inches. Protected thus they are accessible for market at any +time during the winter. If the design is to keep them over till spring, +the covering may be first six inches of earth, to be followed, as cold +increases, with six inches of straw, litter, or eel-grass. This latter +is my own practice, with the addition of leaving a ridge of earth +between every three or four rows, to act as a support and keep the +cabbages from falling over. I am, also, careful to bring the cabbages to +the pit as soon as pulled, with the earth among the roots as little +disturbed as possible; and, should the roots appear to be dry, to throw +a little earth over them after the cabbages are set in the trench. The +few loose leaves remaining will prevent the earth from sifting down +between the heads, and the air chambers thus made answer a capital +purpose in keeping out the cold, as air is one of the best +non-conductors of heat. It is said that muck-soil, when well drained, is +an excellent one to bury cabbage in, as its antiseptic properties +preserve them from decay. If the object is to preserve the cabbage for +market purposes only, the heads may be buried in the same position in +which they grew, or they may be inverted, the stump having no value in +itself; but if for seed purposes, they must be buried head up, as, +whatever injures the stump, spoils the whole cabbage for that object. I +store between ten and fifty thousand heads annually to raise seed from, +and carry them through till planting time with a degree of success +varying from a loss, for seed purposes, of from one-half to thirty-three +per cent. of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> number buried; but, if handled early in spring, many +that would be worthless for seed purposes, could be profitably marketed. +A few years since, I buried a lot with a depth varying from one to four +feet, and found, on uncovering them in the spring, that all had kept, +and apparently equally well. In the winter of 1868, excessively cold +weather came very early and unexpectedly, before my cabbage plot had +received its full covering of litter. The consequence was, the frost +penetrated so deep that it froze through the heads into the stumps, and, +when spring came, a large portion of them came out spoiled for seed +purposes, though most of them sold readily in the market. A cabbage is +rendered worthless for seed when the frost strikes through the stump +where it joins the head; and though, to the unpractised eye, all may +appear right, yet, if the heart of the stump has a water-soaked +appearance on being cut into, it will almost uniformly decay just below +the head in the course of a few weeks after having been planted out. If +there is a probability that the stumps have been frozen through, examine +the plot early, and, if it proves so, sell the cabbages for eating +purposes, no matter how sound and handsome the heads look; if you delay +until time for planting out the cabbage for seed, meanwhile much waste +will occur. I once lost heavily in Marblehead Mammoth cabbage by having +them buried on a hill-side with a gentle slope. In the course of the +winter they fell over on their sides, which let down the soil from +above, and, closing the air-chambers between them, brought the huge +heads into a mass, and the result was, a large proportion of them rotted +badly. At another time, I lost a whole plot by burying them in soil +between ledges of rock, which kept<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> the ground very wet when spring +opened; the consequence was, every cabbage rotted. If the heads are +frozen more than two or three leaves deep before they are pitted they +will not come out so handsome in the spring; but cabbages are very +hardy, and they readily rally from a little freezing, either in the open +ground or after they are buried, though it is best, when they are frozen +in the open ground, to let them remain there until the frost comes out +before removing them, if it can be done without too much risk of +freezing still deeper, as they handle better then, for, being tougher, +the leaves are not so easily broken. If the soil is frozen to any depth +before the cabbages are removed, the roots will be likely to be injured +in the pulling, a matter of no consequence if the cabbages are intended +for market, but of some importance if they are for seed raising. Large +cabbages are more easily pulled by giving them a little twist; if for +seed purposes, this should be avoided, as it injures the stump. A small +lot, that are to be used within a month, can be kept hung up by the +stump in the cellar of a dwelling-house; they will keep in this way +until spring; but the outer leaves will dry and turn yellow, the heads +shrink some in size, and be apt to lose in quality. Some practise +putting clean chopped straw in the bottom of a box or barrel, wetting +it, and covering with heads trimmed ready for cooking, adding again wet +straw and a layer of heads, so alternating until the barrel or box is +filled, after which it is headed up and kept in a cool place, at, or a +little below, the freezing point. No doubt this is an excellent way to +preserve a small lot, as it has the two essentials to success, keeping +them cool and moist.</p> + +<p>Instead of burying them in an upright position,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> after a deep furrow has +been made the cabbages are sometimes laid on their sides two deep, with +their roots at the bottom of the furrow, and covered with earth in this +position. Where the winter climate is so mild that a shallow covering +will be sufficient protection, this method saves much labor.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER.</h2> + + +<p>When a piece of drumhead has been planted very late (sometimes they are +planted on ground broken up after a crop of hay has been taken from it +the same season), there will be a per cent. of the plants when the +growing season is over that have not headed. With care almost all of +these can be made to head during the winter. A few years ago I selected +my seed heads from a large piece and then sold the first "pick" of what +remained at ten cents a head, the second at eight cents, and so down +until all were taken for which purchasers were willing to give one cent +each. Of course, after such a thorough selling out as this, there was +not much in the shape of a head left. I now had what remained pulled up +and carted away, doubtful whether to feed them to the cows or to set +them out to head up during winter. As they were very healthy plants in +the full vigor of growth, having rudimentary heads just gathering in, I +determined to set them out. I had a pit dug deep enough to bring the +tops of the heads, when the plants were stood upright as they grew, just +above the surface of the ground; I then stood the cabbages in without +breaking off any of the leaves, keeping the roots well covered with +earth, having the plants far enough apart not to crowd each other very +much, though so near as to press<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> somewhat together the two outer +circles of leaves. They were allowed to remain in this condition until +it was cold enough to freeze the ground an inch in thickness, when a +covering of coarse hay was thrown over them a couple of inches thick, +and, as the cold increased in intensity, this covering was increased to +ten or twelve inches in thickness, the additions being made at two or +three intervals. In the spring I uncovered the lot, and found that +nearly every plant had headed up. I sold the heads for four cents a +pound; and these refuse cabbages averaged me about ten cents a head, +which was the price my best heads brought me in the fall. I have seen +thousands of cabbages in one lot, the refuse of several acres that had +been planted on sod land broken up the same season a crop of hay had +been taken from it, made to head by this course, and sold in the spring +for $1.30 per barrel. When there is a large lot of such cabbages the +most economical way to plant them will be in furrows made by the plough. +Most of the bedding used in covering them, if it be as coarse as it +ought to be to admit as much air as possible while it should not mat +down on the cabbages, will, with care in drying, be again available for +covering another season, or remain suitable for bedding purposes. These +"winter-headed" cabbages, as they are called in the market, are not so +solid and have more shrinkage to them than those headed in the open +ground; hence they will not bear transportation as well, neither will +they keep as long when exposed to the air. The effect of wintering +cabbage by burying in the soil is to make them exceedingly tender for +table use.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.</h2> + + +<p>If a piece of land is planted with seed grown from two heads of cabbage +the product will bear a striking resemblance to the two parent cabbages, +with a third variety which will combine the characteristics of these +two, yet the resemblance will be somewhat modified at times by a little +more manure, a little higher culture, a little better location, and the +addition of an individuality that particular vegetables occasionally +take upon themselves which we designate by the word "sport." The +"sports" when they occur are fixed and perpetuated with remarkable +readiness in the cabbage family, as is proved by a great number of +varieties in cultivation, which are the numerous progeny of one +ancestor. The catalogues of the English and French seedsmen contain long +lists of varieties, many of which (and this is especially true of the +early kinds) are either the same variety under a different name or are +different "strains" of the same variety produced by the careful +selections of prominent market gardeners through a series of years.</p> + +<p>Every season I experiment with foreign and American varieties of cabbage +to learn the characteristics of the different kinds, their comparative +earliness, size, shape, and hardness of head, length of stump, and such +other facts as would prove of value to market gardeners. There is one +fact that every careful experimenter soon learns, that one season will +not teach all that can be known relative to a variety, and that a number +of specimens of each kind must be raised to enable one to make a fair +comparison. It is amusing to read the dicta which appear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> in the +agricultural press from those who have made but a single experiment with +some vegetable; they proclaim more after a single trial than a cautious +experimenter would dare to declare after years spent in careful +observation. The year 1869 I raised over sixty varieties of cabbage, +importing nearly complete suites of those advertised by the leading +English and French seed houses, and collecting the principal kinds +raised in this country. In the year 1888, I grew eighty-five different +varieties and strains of cabbages and cauliflowers. I do not propose +describing all these in this treatise or their comparative merits; of +some of them I have yet something to learn, but I will endeavor to +introduce with my description such notes as I think will prove of value +to my fellow farmers and market gardeners.</p> + +<p>I will here say in general of the class of early cabbages, that most of +them have elongated heads between ovoid and conical in form. They appear +to lack in this country the sweetness and tenderness that characterize +some varieties of our drumhead, and, consequently, in the North when the +drumhead enters the market there is but a limited call for them.</p> + +<p>It may be well here to note a fundamental distinction between the +drumhead cabbage of England and those of this country. In England the +drumhead class are almost wholly raised to feed to stock. I venture the +conjecture that owing in part, or principally, to the fact European +gardeners have never had the motive, and, consequently, have never +developed the full capacity of the drumhead as exampled by the fine +varieties raised in this country. The securing of sorts reliable for +heading being with them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> a matter of secondary consideration, seed is +raised from stumps or any refuse heads that may be standing when spring +comes round. For this reason English drumhead cabbage seed is better +suited to raise a mass of leaves than heads, and always disappoints our +American farmers who buy it because it is cheap with the expectation of +raising cabbage for market. English-grown drumhead cabbage seed is +utterly worthless for use in this country except to raise greens or +collards.</p> + +<p><br /></p> + +<p>The following are foreign varieties that are accepted in this country as +standards, and for years have been more or less extensively cultivated: +<span class="smcap">Early York</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Oxheart</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Winnigstadt</span>, +<span class="smcap">Red Dutch</span>, <span class="smcap">Red Drumhead</span>. In my experience as a seed +dealer, the Sugar Loaf and Oxheart are losing ground in the farming +community, the Early Jersey Wakefield having, to a large extent, +replaced them.</p> + +<p><b>Early York.</b> Heads nearly ovoid, rather soft, with few waste leaves +surrounding them, which are of a bright green color. Reliable for +heading. Stump rather short. Plant two feet by eighteen inches. This +cabbage has been cultivated in England over a hundred years. <span class="smcap">Little +Pixie</span> with me is earlier than Early York, as reliable for heading, +heads much harder, and is of better flavor; the heads do not grow quite +as large.</p> + +<p><b>Early Oxheart.</b> Heads nearly egg-shaped, small, hard, few waste leaves, +stumps short. A little later than Early York. Have the rows two feet +apart, and the plants eighteen inches apart in the row.</p> + +<p><b>Early Winnigstadt.</b> (A German cabbage.) Heads nearly conical in shape, +having usually a twist of leaf<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> at the top; larger than Oxheart, are +harder than any of the early oblong heading cabbages; stumps middling +short. Matures about ten days later than Early York. The Winnigstadt is +remarkably reliable for heading, being not excelled in this respect when +the seed has been raised with care, by any cabbage grown. It is a +capital sort for early market outside our large cities, where the very +early kinds are not so eagerly craved. It is so reliable for heading, +that it will often make fine heads where other sorts fail; and I would +advise all who have not succeeded in their efforts to grow cabbage, to +try this before giving up their attempts. It is raised by some for +winter use, and where the drumheads are not so successfully raised, I +would advise my farmer friends to try the Winnigstadt, as the heads are +so hard that they keep without much waste. Have rows two feet apart, and +plant twenty inches to two feet apart in the rows.</p> + +<p><b>Red Dutch.</b> Heads nearly conical, medium sized, hard, of a very deep +red; outer leaves numerous, and not so red as the head, being somewhat +mixed with green; stump rather long. This cabbage is usually planted too +late; it requires nearly the whole season to mature. It is used for +pickling, or cut up fine as a salad, served with vinegar and pepper. +This is a very tender cabbage, and, were it not for its color, would be +an excellent sort to boil; to those who have a mind to eat it with their +eyes shut, this objection will not apply.</p> + +<p><b>Red Drumhead.</b> Like the preceding, with the exception that the heads +grow round, or nearly so, are harder, and of double the size. It is very +difficult to raise seed from this cabbage in this country. I am +acquainted with five trials, made in as many different<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> years, two of +which I made myself, and all were nearly utter failures, the yield, when +the hardest heads were selected, being at about the rate of two great +spoonfuls of seed from every twenty cabbages. French seed-growers are +more successful, otherwise this seed would have to sell at a far higher +figure in the market than any other sort.</p> + +<p><b>The Little Pixie</b> has much to recommend it, in earliness, quality, +reliability for heading, and hardness of the head; earlier than Early +York, though somewhat smaller.</p> + +<p>Among those that deserve to be heartily welcomed and grow in favor, are +the <span class="smcap">Early Ulm Savoy</span> (for engraving and description of which see +under head of Savoy), and the <span class="smcap">St. Dennis Drumhead</span>, a late, +short-stumped sort, setting a large, round, very solid head, as large, +but harder, than Premium Flat Dutch. The leaves are of a bluish-green, +and thicker than those of most varieties of drumhead. Our brethren in +Canada think highly of this cabbage, and if we want to try a new +drumhead, I will speak a good word for this one.</p> + +<p><b>Early Schweinfurt</b>, or <b>Schweinfurt Quintal</b>, is an excellent early +drumhead for family use; the heads range in size from ten to eighteen +inches in diameter, varying with the conditions of cultivation more than +any other cabbage I am acquainted with. They are flattish round, weigh +from three to nine pounds when well grown, are very symmetrical in +shape, standing apart from the surrounding leaves. They are not solid, +though they have the finished appearance that solidity gives; they are +remarkably tender, as though blanched, and of very fine flavor. It is +among the earliest of drumheads, maturing at about the same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> time as the +Early Winnigstadt. As an early drumhead for the family garden, it has no +superior; and where the market is near, and does not insist that a +cabbage head must be hard to be good, it has proved a very profitable +market sort.</p> + +<p><br /></p> + +<p>The following are either already standard American varieties of cabbage, +or such as are likely soon to become so; very possibly there are two or +three other varieties or strains that deserve to be included in the +list. I give all that have proved to be first class in my locality: +<span class="smcap">Early Wakefield</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Wyman</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Summer</span>, +<span class="smcap">All Seasons</span>, <span class="smcap">Hard Heading</span>, <span class="smcap">Succession</span>, +<span class="smcap">Warren</span>, <span class="smcap">Vandergaw</span>, <span class="smcap">Peerless</span>, <span class="smcap">Newark</span>, +<span class="smcap">Flat Dutch</span>, <span class="smcap">Premium Flat Dutch</span>, <span class="smcap">Stone Mason</span>, +<span class="smcap">Large Late Drumhead</span>, <span class="smcap">Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead</span>, +<span class="smcap">American Green Glazed</span>, <span class="smcap">Fottler's Drumhead</span>, <span class="smcap">Bergen +Drumhead</span>, <span class="smcap">Drumhead Savoy</span>, and <span class="smcap">American Green Globe +Savoy</span>. All of these varieties, as I have previously stated, are but +improvements of foreign kinds; but they are so far improved through +years of careful selection and cultivation, that, as a rule, they appear +quite distinct from the originals when grown side by side with them, and +this distinction is more or less recognized, in both English and +American catalogues, by the adjective "American" or "English" being +added after varieties bearing the same name.</p> + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img53-1.jpg" alt="Early Wakefield." title="Early Wakefield." /></div> +<p><b>Early Wakefield</b>, sometimes called <b>Early Jersey Wakefield</b>. Heads +mostly nearly conical in shape but sometimes nearly round, of good size +for early, very reliable for heading; stumps short. A very popular early +cabbage in the markets of Boston and New York. Plant two and a half feet +by two feet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> There are two strains of this cabbage, one a little later +and larger than the other.</p> +<p><br /></p> + +<div class="figright"><img src="images/img53-2.jpg" alt="Early Wyman." title="Early Wyman." /></div> +<p><b>Early Wyman.</b> This cabbage is named after Capt. Wyman, of Cambridge, +the originator. Like Early Wakefield the heads are usually somewhat +conical, but sometimes nearly round; in structure they are compact. In +earliness it ranks about with the Early Wakefield, and making heads of +double the size, it has a high value as an early cabbage. Capt. Wyman +had entire control of this cabbage until within the past few years, and, +consequently, has held Boston Market in his own hands, to the chagrin of +his fellow market gardeners, raising some seasons as many as thirty +thousand heads. Have the rows from two to two and a half feet apart, and +the plants from twenty to twenty-four inches apart in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> the row. Crane's +Early is a cross between the Wyman and Wakefield, intermediate in size +and earliness.</p> + +<div class="figright"><img src="images/img54.jpg" alt="Premium Flat Dutch." title="Premium Flat Dutch." /></div> +<p><b>Premium Flat Dutch.</b> Large, late variety; heads either round or flat, +on the top (varying with different strains); rather hard; color bluish +green; leaves around heads rather numerous; towards the close of the +season, the edge of some of the exterior leaves and the top of the heads +assume a purple cast. The edges of the exterior leaves, and of the two +or three that make the outside of the head, are quite ruffled, so that +when grown side by side with Stone Mason, this distinction between the +habit of growth of the two varieties is noticeable at quite a distance. +Stumps short; reliable for heading. Have the rows three feet apart, and +the plants from two and a half to three feet apart in the rows. This +cabbage is very widely cultivated, and, in many respects, is an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +excellent sort to raise for late marketing. There are several strains of +it catalogued by different seedsmen under various names, such as Sure +Head, &c.</p> + +<div class="figright"><img src="images/img55.jpg" alt="Stone Mason." title="Stone Mason." /></div> + +<p><b>Stone Mason.</b> An improvement on the Mason, which cabbage was selected +by Mr. John Mason of Marblehead, from a number of varieties of cabbage +that came from a lot of seed purchased and planted as Savoys. Mr. John +Stone afterwards improved upon the Mason cabbage, by increasing the size +of the heads. Different growers differ in their standard of a Stone +Mason cabbage, in earliness and lateness, and in the size, form, and +hardness of the head. But all these varieties agree in the +characteristics of being very reliable for heading, in having heads +which are large, very hard, very tender, rich and sweet; short stumps, +and few waste leaves. The color of the leaves varies from a bluish green +to a pea-green, and the structure from nearly smooth to much blistered. +In their color and blistering some specimens have almost a Savoy cast. +The heads of the best varieties of Stone Mason range in weight from six +to twenty-five pounds, the difference turning mostly on soil, manure, +and cultivation.</p> + +<p>The Stone Mason is an earlier cabbage than Premium Flat Dutch, has fewer +waste leaves, and side by side, under high cultivation, grows to an +equal or larger size, while it makes heads that are decidedly harder and +sweeter. These cabbages are equally reliable for heading. I am inclined +to the opinion that under poor cultivation the Premium Flat Dutch will +do somewhat better than the Stone Mason.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p> + +<p>Until the introduction of Fottler's Drumhead it was the standard +drumhead cabbage in the markets of Boston and other large cities of the +North. Have the rows three feet apart, and the plants from two to three +feet apart in the row.</p> + +<p><b>Large Late Drumhead.</b> Heads large, round, sometimes flattened at the +top, close and firm; loose leaves numerous; stems short; reliable for +heading, hardy, and a good keeper. The name "Large Late Drumhead" +includes varieties raised by several seedsmen in this country, all of +which resemble each other in the above characteristics, and differ in +but minor points. Have rows three feet apart, and plants from two and a +half to three feet apart in the row.</p> + +<p><b>Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.</b> This is the largest of the cabbage +family, having sometimes been grown to weigh over ninety pounds to the +plant. It originated in Marblehead, Mass., being produced by Mr. Alley, +probably from the Mason, by years of high cultivation and careful +selection of seed stock. I introduced this cabbage and the Stone Mason +to the general public many years ago, and it has been pretty thoroughly +disseminated throughout the United States. Heads varying in shape +between hemispherical and spherical, with but few waste leaves +surrounding them; size very large, varying from fifteen to twenty inches +in diameter, and, in some specimens, they have grown to the +extraordinary dimensions of twenty-four inches. In good soil, and with +the highest culture, this variety has attained an average weight of +thirty pounds by the acre. Quality, when well grown, remarkably sweet +and tender, as would be inferred from the rapidity of its growth. +Culti<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>vate in rows four feet apart, and allow four feet between the +plants in the rows. Sixty tons of this variety have been raised from a +single acre.</p> + +<p><b>American Green Glazed.</b> Heads loose, though rather large, with a great +body of waste leaves surrounding them; quality poor; late; stump long. +This cabbage was readily distinguished among all the varieties in my +experimental plot by the deep, rich green of the leaves, with their +bright lustre as though varnished. It is grown somewhat extensively in +the South, as it is believed not to be so liable to injury from insects +as other varieties. Plant two and a half feet apart each way. I would +advise my Southern friends to try the merits of other kinds before +adopting this poor affair. I know, through my correspondence, that the +Mammoth has done well as far South as Louisiana and Cuba, and the +Fottler, in many sections of the South, has given great satisfaction.</p> + + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img57.jpg" alt="Fottler's Early Drumhead." title="Fottler's Early Drumhead." /></div> +<p><b>Fottler's Early Drumhead.</b> Several years ago a Boston seedsman imported +a lot of cabbage seed from Europe, under the name of Early Brunswick +Short Stemmed. It proved to be a large heading and very early Drumhead. +The heads were from eight to eighteen inches in diameter nearly flat,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +hard, sweet, and tender in quality; few waste leaves; stump short. In +earliness it was about a fortnight ahead of the Stone Mason. It was so +much liked by the market gardeners that the next season he ordered a +larger quantity; but the second importation, though ordered and sent +under the same name, proved to be a different and inferior kind, and the +same result followed one or two other importations. The two gardeners +who received seed of the first importation brought to market a fine, +large Drumhead, ten days or a fortnight ahead of their fellows. The seed +of the true stock was eagerly bought up by the Boston market gardeners, +most of it at <i>five dollars an ounce</i>. After an extensive trial on a +large scale by the market farmers around Boston, and by farmers in +various parts of the United States, Fot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>tler's Cabbage has given great +satisfaction, and become a universal favorite, and when once known it, +and especially the improved strain of it, known as Deep Head, is fast +replacing some of the old varieties of Drumhead. Very reliable for +heading.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img58.jpg" alt="Vandergaw Cabbage." title="Vandergaw Cabbage." /></div> +<p><b>Vandergaw Cabbage.</b> This new Long Island Cabbage must be classed as A +No. 1 for the midsummer and late market. It is as sure to head as the +Succession, and has some excellent characteristics in common.</p> + +<p>It makes large, green heads, hard, tender, and crisp. This is an +acquisition.</p> + + +<div class="figright"><img src="images/img59.jpg" alt="The Warren Cabbage." title="The Warren Cabbage." /></div> +<p><b>The Warren Cabbage.</b> This first-class cabbage is closely allied to, but +an improvement on, the old Mason Cabbage of twenty-five years ago. It +makes a head deep, round, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> very hard, the outer leaves wrapping it +over very handsomely. In reliability for heading no cabbage surpasses +it; a field of them when in their prime is as pretty a sight as a +cabbage man would wish to see. It comes in as early as some strains of +Fottler, and a little earlier than others. A capital sort to succeed the +Early Summer. The heads being very thick through, and nearly round, make +it an excellent sort to carry through the winter, as it "peels" well, as +cabbage-growers say. Ten inches in diameter, in size it is just about +right for profitable marketing. A capital sort, exceedingly popular +among market-man in this vicinity.</p> + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img60.jpg" alt="Early Bleichfeld Cabbage." title="Early Bleichfeld Cabbage." /></div> + +<p><b>Early Bleichfeld Cabbage.</b> I find the Bleichfeld to be among the +earliest of the large, hard-heading Drumheads, maturing earlier than the +Fottler's Brunswick. The heads are large, very solid, tender when +cooked, and of excellent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> flavor. The color is a lighter green than most +varieties and it is as reliable for heading as any cabbage I have ever +grown. The above engraving I have had made from a photograph of a +specimen grown on my grounds.</p> +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figright"><img src="images/img61.jpg" alt="Danish Drumhead Cabbage." title="Danish Drumhead Cabbage." /></div> +<p><b>Danish Drumhead Cabbage.</b> In 1879, Mr. Edward Abelgoord wrote me from +Canada, that he raised a large Drumhead Cabbage, the seed of which was +brought from Denmark, which was the best kind of cabbage that he had +seen in that latitude (46°), being very valuable for the extreme North. +It was earlier than Fottler's Drumhead, and made large, flat heads, of +excellent flavor, and was so reliable for heading. I raised a field of +this new cabbage, and it proved a large, flat, early Drumhead, very +reliable for heading.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img62.jpg" alt="The Reynolds Early Cabbage." title="The Reynolds Early Cabbage." /></div> +<p><b>The Reynolds Early Cabbage.</b> In the year 1875, Mr. Franklin Reynolds, +of this town, crossed the Cannon-Ball Cabbage on the Schweinfurt +Quintal, by carefully transferring the pollen of the former on the +latter, the stamens having first been removed, and immediately tying +muslin around the impregnated blossoms to keep away all insects. The +results were a few ripe seeds. These were carefully saved and planted +the next season, when the product showed the characteristics of the two +parents. The best heads were selected from the lot, and, from these, +seeds were raised. Several selections were made of the choicest heads +from year to year; and I now have the pleasure of introducing the +results, <i>a new cabbage which combines the good qualities of both its +parents</i>.</p> + +<p>The flavor of this new cabbage is rich, tender, and sweet, being +superior to the general Drumhead class,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> making it a very superior +variety for family use, and also for marketing when there is not a long +transportation. None of the scores of varieties I have ever grown has a +shorter stump than this; the heads appear to rest directly on the +ground, and no one is surer to head.</p> + +<div class="figright"><img src="images/img63.jpg" alt="All-Seasons Cabbage." title="All-Seasons Cabbage." /></div> +<p><b>All-Seasons Cabbage.</b> This new cabbage is the result of a cross made by +a Long Island gardener between the Flat Dutch and a variety of Drumhead. +The result is a remarkably large, early Drumhead, that matures close in +time with the Early Summer, while it is from one third to one half +larger. It is an excellent variety either as an early or late sort; the +roundness of the head, leaving a thick, solid cabbage, should it become +necessary, as is often the case with those marketed in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> spring, to +peel off the outer layer of leaves. Heads large in size, solid and +tender, and rich flavored when cooked. It has already, in three years, +verified the prophecy I made when sending it out, and become a standard +variety in some localities.</p> + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img64.jpg" alt="Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage." title="Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage." /></div> +<p><b>Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage.</b> I am not acquainted with any variety +of cabbage (I believe I have raised about all the native and foreign +varieties that have been catalogued) that makes so hard a head as does +the "Hard-heading" when fully matured. Neither am I acquainted with any +variety that is so late a keeper as is this; the German gardener, from +whom I obtained it, said that it gave him, and his friends who had it, +complete control of the Chicago market for about a fortnight after all +other varieties had "played out." My own experience with it tends to +confirm this statement, for under the same conditions it kept decidedly +later than all my other<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> varieties, was greener in color, and when +planted out they were so late to push seed-shoots that I almost +despaired of getting a crop of seed. I find, also, that they are much +less inclined to burst than any of the hard-heading varieties. Heads +grow to a good market size, are more globular than Flat Dutch; and, as +might be presumed, of great weight in proportion to their size. The +color is a peculiar green, rather more of an olive than most kinds of +cabbage. About a fortnight later than Flat Dutch. For late fall, winter, +and spring sales plant 3 by 3 the first of June.</p> + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img65.jpg" alt="Early Deep-Head Cabbage." title="Early Deep-Head Cabbage." /></div> +<p><b>Early Deep-Head Cabbage.</b> This is a valuable improvement on the Fottler +made by years of careful selection and high cultivation by Mr. Alley of +Marblehead, a famous cabbage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> grower, who, as the name indicates, has +produced a deeper, rounder heading variety than the original Fottler, +thus making what that was not, an excellent sort for winter and spring +marketing. It has all the excellent traits of its parent in reliability +for making large, handsome heads.</p> + +<p><br /></p> + +<p><b>Bergen Drumhead.</b> Heads round, rather flat on the top, solid; leaves +stout, thick, and rather numerous; stump short. With me, under same +cultivation, it is later than Stone Mason. It is tender and of good +flavor. A popular sort in many sections, particularly in the markets of +New York City. Have the plants three feet apart each way.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>SAVOY CABBAGES.</h2> + + +<p>The Savoys are the tenderest and richest-flavored of cabbages, though +not always as sweet as a well-grown Stone Mason; nor is a Savoy grown on +poor soil, or one that has been pinched by drouth, as tender as a Stone +Mason that has been grown under favoring circumstances; yet it remains, +as a rule, that the Savoy surpasses all other cabbages in tenderness, +and in a rich, marrow-like flavor. The Savoys are also the hardiest of +the cabbage tribe, enduring in the open field a temperature within +sixteen degrees of zero without serious injury; and if the heads are not +very hard they will continue to withstand repeated changes from freezing +to thawing for a couple of months, as far north as the latitude of +Boston. A degree of freezing improves them, and it is common in that +latitude to let such as are intended for early winter use, in the +family, remain standing in the open ground where they grew, cutting the +heads as they are wanted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> + +<p>As a rule Savoys neither head as readily (the "Improved American Savoy" +being an exception) nor do the heads grow as large as the Drumhead +varieties; indeed, most of the kinds in cultivation are so unreliable in +these respects as to be utterly worthless for market purposes, and +nearly so for the kitchen garden.</p> + +<p><b>The Drumhead Savoy.</b> This, as the name implies, is the result of a +cross between a Savoy and a Drumhead cabbage, partaking of the +characteristics of each. Many of the cabbages sold in the market as +Savoy are really this variety. One variety in my experimental garden, +which I received as <span class="smcap">Tour's Savoy</span> (evidently a Drumhead variety +of the Savoy), proved to be much like Early Schweinfurt in earliness and +style of heading; the heads were very large, but quite loose in +structure; I should think it would prove valuable for family use.</p> + +<p>It is a fact that does not appear to be generally known that we have +among the Savoys some remarkably early sorts which rank with the +earliest varieties of cabbage grown. Pancalier and Early Ulm Savoy are +earlier than that old standard of earliness, Early York; Pancalier being +somewhat earlier than Ulm.</p> + +<p><b>Pancalier.</b> is characterized by very coarsely blistered leaves of the +darkest-green color; the heads usually gather together, being the only +exception I know of to the rule that cabbage heads are made up of +overlapping leaves, wrapped closely together. It has a short stump, and +with high cultivation is reliable for heading. The leaves nearest the +head, though not forming a part of it, are quite tender, and may be +cooked with the head. Plant fifteen by thirty inches.</p> + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img68-1.jpg" alt="Early Ulm Savoy." title="Early Ulm Savoy." /></div> + +<p><b>Early Ulm Savoy.</b> is a few days later than Pancalier, and makes a larger +head; the leaves are of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> lighter green and not so coarsely blistered; +stump short; head round; very reliable for heading. It has a capital +characteristic in not being so liable as most varieties to burst the +head and push the seed shoot immediately after the head is matured. For +first early, I know no cabbages so desirable as these for the kitchen +garden.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<p>The <b>Early Dwarf Savoy.</b> is a desirable variety of second early. The +heads are rather flat in shape, and grow to a fair size. Stumps short; +reliable for heading.</p> + +<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img68-2.jpg" alt="Improved American Savoy." title="Improved American Savoy." /></div> +<p><b>Improved American Savoy.</b> Everything considered, this is the Savoy, +"par excellence," for the market garden. It is a true Savoy, the heads +grow to a large size, from six to ten inches in diameter, varying, of +course, with soil, manure, and cultivation. In shape the heads are +mostly globular, occasionally oblong, having but few waste leaves, and +grow very solid. Stump short. In reliability for heading it is +unsurpassed by any other cabbage.</p> + + +<p><b>Golden Savoy</b> differs from other varieties in the color of the head, +which rises from the body of light<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> green leaves, of a singular pale +yellow color, as though blanched. The stumps are long, and the head +rather small, a portion of these growing pointed. It is very late, not +worth cultivating, except as a curiosity.</p> + +<p><b>Norwegian Savoy.</b> This is a singular half cabbage, half kale—at least, +so it has proved under my cultivation. The leaves are long, narrow, +tasselated, and somewhat blistered. The whole appearance is very +singular and rather ornamental. I have tried this cabbage twice, but +have never got beyond the possible promise of a head.</p> + +<p><b>Victoria Savoy</b>, <b>Russian Savoy</b>, and <b>Cape Savoy</b>, tested in my +experimental garden, did not prove desirable either for family use or +for market purposes.</p> + +<p><b>Feather Stemmed Savoy.</b> This is a cross between the Savoy and Brussels +sprouts, having the habit of growth of Brussels sprouts.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>OTHER VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.</h2> + + +<p>I will add notes on some other varieties which have been tested, from +year to year, in my experimental plot. The results from tests of +different strains of standard sorts, I have not thought it worth the +while to record.</p> + +<p><b>Cannon Ball.</b> The heads are usually spherical, attaining to a diameter +of from five to nine inches, with the surrounding leaves gathered rather +closely around them; in hardness and relative weight it is excelled by +but few varieties. Stump short. It delights in the highest cultivation +possible. It is about a week later than Early York. In those markets +where cabbages are sold by weight, it will pay to grow for market; it is +a good cabbage for the family garden.</p> + +<p><b>Early Cone</b>, of the Wakefield class, but with me not as early.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Garfield Pickling</b>, of late variety, of the conical class.</p> + +<p><b>Cardinal Red.</b> A large, late variety of red; but on my grounds, it is +not equal to Red Drumhead.</p> + +<p><b>Vilmorin's Early Flat Dutch.</b> Not quite as large as Early Summer, +though about as early and resembles it in shape of head.</p> + +<p><b>Royal German Drumhead.</b> Reliable for heading.</p> + +<p><b>Large White Solid Magdeburg.</b> A late Drumhead; short stumped; reliable +for heading. Medium late.</p> + +<p><b>Pak Choi.</b> Evidently of the Kale class; no heads.</p> + +<p><b>Chou de Burghlez</b> and <b>Chou de Milan</b>. These are coarse, loose, small +heading varieties, allied to Kale. The latter is of the Savoy class.</p> + +<p><b>Earliest Erfurt Blood-Red.</b> Decidedly the earliest of the red cabbages. +Very reliable for heading. A Drumhead; smaller than Red Drumhead. Very +dark red.</p> + +<p><b>Empress.</b> Resembles Wyman in size and shape; but the heads are more +pointed, and it makes head earlier. Heads well.</p> + +<p><b>Schlitzer.</b> This makes heads mostly shaped like the Winnigstadt, but a +third larger. Its mottling of green and purple gives it a striking +appearance. Early and very reliable for heading. Heads are not very +hard; but, when cooked, are just about as tender and rich-flavored as +the Savoy. Promises to be an excellent sort for family use.</p> + +<p><b>Rothelburg.</b> An early sure heading variety of the Drumhead class. Heads +of medium size; resembling in shape Deep Head.</p> + +<p><b>Sure Head.</b> A strain of Flat Dutch. A late variety; heads deeper than +Fottler, but with me not so reliable.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Dark Red Pointed.</b> Resembles Winnigstadt in shape. About as late as Red +Dutch, and not as desirable.</p> + +<p><b>Bacalan Late.</b> In shape resembles Winnigstadt. Grow a little wild.</p> + +<p><b>Amack.</b> A late variety. Heads generally nearly globular and quite hard. +Very reliable for heading.</p> + +<p><b>Bangholm.</b> First of all. As early as the earliest, but very small,—not +as large as Little Pixie.</p> + +<p><b>Early Enfield Market.</b></p> + +<p><b>Tourleville.</b> Heads resemble Wakefield in form; but, with me, are +neither so large nor so large, and are more inclined to burst.</p> + +<p><b>Danish Round Winter.</b> A late variety; bearing deep, hard heads on long +stumps.</p> + +<p><b>Dwarf Danish.</b> Late. Reliable to head; uneven in time of heading. Worth +planting for market.</p> + +<p><b>Danish Ball Drumhead.</b> Heads not characterized by globular shape, but +rather flattish. Irregular in length of stump.</p> + +<p><b>Early Paris.</b> Closely resembles Wakefield.</p> + +<p><b>Very Early Etampes.</b> Earlier than Wakefield. Shape partakes of both +Oxheart and Wakefield.</p> + +<p><b>Early Mohawk.</b> Light green in color; a good header, but not so hard +heading as Fottler. Appears to have a little of the Savoy cross in it.</p> + +<p><b>Sure Head.</b> A late variety of the Dutch class; reliable for heading; +stump rather long.</p> + +<p><b>Excelsior.</b> A variety which is of the Fottler class, but makes smaller +sized heads.</p> + +<p><b>Louisville Drumhead.</b> Of the flat Dutch type; nearly as early as Early +Summer.</p> + +<p><b>Early Advance.</b> Of the Wakefield type. With me it is full as early as +Wakefield, and considerably larger. Rather coarser in structure.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Market Garden.</b> Of the Fottler class; very reliable for heading. Heads +of good size, but rather coarser than the Deep Head.</p> + +<p><b>Chase's Excelsior.</b> A second early; much like Fottler; heads finely.</p> + +<p><b>Bloomsdale Early Market.</b> With me this is not as good a variety as +Wakefield.</p> + +<p><b>Berkshire Beauty.</b> There appear to be fine possibilities in this +cabbage, which have not yet been developed into uniformity.</p> + +<p><b>Landredth's Extra Early.</b> With me it does not prove as early as +Wakefield, and does not head as well.</p> + +<p><b>Bridgeport Late Drumhead.</b> A large Drumhead; in size, between Stone +Mason and Marblehead Mammoth. Reliable for heading, but does not head as +hard as either of these varieties. Not inclined to burst.</p> + +<p><b>Large French Oxheart</b> closely resembles Early Oxheart, but grows to +double the size, and is about ten days later; quality usually good.</p> + +<p><b>Early Sugar Loaf.</b> Heads shaped much like a loaf of sugar standing on +its smaller end, resembling, as Burr well says, a head of Cos lettuce in +its shape, and in the peculiar clasping of the leaves about the head. +Heads rather hard, medium size; early, and tender. It is said not to +stand the heat as well as most sorts.</p> + +<p><b>Large Brunswick Short-Stemmed.</b> (English seed.) Late, long-stumped, +wild, plenty of leaves, almost no head; bears but a slight resemblance +to Fottler's Drumhead.</p> + +<p><b>Early Empress.</b> Cabbages well; heads conical; early.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Robinson's Champion Ox Drumhead.</b> Stump long; heads soft and not very +large; wild.</p> + +<p><b>English Winnigstadt.</b> Long-stumped; irregular; not to be compared with +French stock.</p> + +<p><b>Blenheim.</b> Early; heads mostly conical; of good size.</p> + +<p><b>Shillings Queen.</b> Early; heads conical; stumps long.</p> + +<p><b>Carter's Superfine Early Dwarf.</b> Surpasses in earliness and hardness of +head. Closely allied to Little Pixie.</p> + +<p><b>Enfield Market Improved.</b> Most of the heads were flat; rather wild; not +to be compared with Fottler.</p> + +<p><b>Kemp's Incomparable.</b> Long-headed; heads, when mature, do not appear to +burst as readily as with most of the conical class.</p> + +<p><b>Fielderkraut.</b> Closely resembles Winnigstadt, with larger and longer +heads and stump; requires more room than Winnigstadt.</p> + +<p><b>Ramsay's Winter Drumhead.</b> Closely resembles St. Dennis. I think it is +the same.</p> + +<p><b>Pomeranian Cabbage.</b> Heads very long; quite large for a conical heading +sort; very symmetrical and hard; color, yellowish-green. It handles +well, and I should think would prove a good keeper. Medium early.</p> + +<p><b>Alsacian Drumhead.</b> Stump long; late; wild.</p> + +<p><b>Marbled Bourgogne.</b> Stumps long; heads small and hard; color, a mixture +of green and red.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="greens" id="greens"></a>CABBAGE GREENS.</h2> + + +<p>In the vicinity of our large cities, the market gardeners sow large +areas very thickly with cabbage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> seed, early in the spring, to raise +young plants to be sold as greens. The seed is sown broadcast at the +rate of ten pounds and upwards to the acre. Seed of the Savoy cabbage is +usually sown for this purpose, which may be sometimes purchased at a +discount, owing to some defect in quality or purity, that would render +it worthless for planting for a crop of heading cabbage.</p> + +<p>The young plants are cut off about even with the ground, when four or +five inches high, washed, and carried to market in barrels or bushel +boxes. The price varies with the state of the market, from 12 cents to +$3 a barrel, the average price in Boston market being about a dollar. +With the return of spring most families have some cabbage stumps +remaining in the cellar; these can be planted about a foot apart in some +handy spot along the edge of the garden, where they will not interfere +with the general crop, setting them under ground from a quarter to a +half their length, depending on the length of the stumps. They will soon +be covered with green shoots, which should be used as greens before the +blossom buds show themselves, as they then become too strong to be +agreeable. If the spot is rich and has been well dug, the rapidity of +growth is surprising; and if the shoots are frequently gathered, many +nice messes of greens can be grown from a few stumps. Farmers in +Northern Vermont tell me, that if they break off each seed shoot as soon +as it shows itself, close home to the stump, nice little heads will push +out on almost every stump. In England, where the winter climate is much +milder than that of New England, it is the practice to raise a second +crop of heads in this way. In my own neighborhood<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> I have seen an acre +from which a crop of drumhead cabbage had been cut off early in the +season, every stump on which had from three to six hard heads, varying +from the size of a hen's egg to that of a goose egg; but to get this +second growth of heads, as much of the stump and leaves should be left +as possible, when cutting out the original head. As in the cabbage +districts of the North little or no use is made of this prolific after +growth, it is worse than useless to suffer the ground to be exhausted by +it; the stump should be pulled by the potato hoe as soon as the heads +are marketed. When cabbages are planted out for seed, if, for any +reason, the seed shoot fails to push out, and at times when it does push +out, fine sprouts for greens will start below the head; when the stock +of these sprouts becomes too tough for use, the large leaves may be +stripped from them and cooked. I usually break off the tender tops of +large sprouts, and then strip off the tenderest of the large leaves +below.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CABBAGE FOR STOCK.</h2> + + +<p>No vegetable raised in the temperate zone, Mangold Wurtzel alone +excepted, will produce as much food to the acre, both for man and beast, +as the cabbage. I have seen acres of the Marblehead Mammoth drumhead +which would average thirty pounds to each cabbage, some specimens +weighing over sixty pounds. The plants were four feet apart each way +which would give a product of over forty tons to the acre; and I have +tested a crop of Fottler's that yielded thirty tons of green food to the +half acre. Other vegetables are at times raised for cattle feed, such as +potatoes, carrots, ruta bagas, mangold wurtzels; a crop of potatoes +yielding four hundred bushels to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> acre at sixty pounds the bushel +would weigh twelve tons; a crop of carrot yielding twelve hundred +bushels to the acre would weigh thirty tons; ruta bagas sometimes yield +thirty tons; and mangolds as high as seventy tons to the acre. I have +set all these crops at a high capacity for fodder purposes; the same +favoring conditions of soil, manure, and cultivation that would produce +four hundred bushels of potatoes, twelve hundred bushels of carrots, and +thirty-five tons of ruta baga turnips, would give a crop of forty tons +of the largest variety of drumhead cabbage. If we now consider the +comparative merits of these crops for nutriment, we find that the +cabbage excels them all in this department also. The potatoes abound in +starch, the mangold and carrot are largely composed of water, while the +cabbage abounds in rich, nitrogeneous food.</p> + +<p>Prof. Stewart states that cabbage for milch cows has about the same +feeding value as sweet corn ensilage, and makes the value not over $3.40 +per ton. Now it is admitted by general current that the value of common +ensilage, which is inferior to that made from sweet corn, is, when +compared with good English hay, as 3 to 1. This would make cabbages for +milch cows worth not far from $7.00 per ton.</p> + +<p>When cabbage is kept for stock feed later than the first severe frost, +if the quantity is large there is considerable waste even with the best +of care. The loose leaves should be fed first, and the heads kept in a +cool place, not more than two or three deep, at as near the freezing +point as possible. If it has been necessary to cut the heads from the +stumps, they may be piled, after the weather has set in decidedly cold, +conveniently near the barn, and kept covered with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> foot of straw or +old litter. As long as a cabbage is kept frozen there is no waste to it; +but if it be allowed to freeze and thaw two or three times, it will soon +rot with an awful stench. I suspect that it is this rotten portion of +the cabbage that often gives the bad flavor to milk. On the other hand, +if it is kept in too warm and dry a place, the outer leaves will dry, +turning yellow, and the whole head lose in weight,—if it be not very +hard, shrivelling, and, if hard, shrinking. If they are kept in too warm +and wet a place, the heads will decay fast, in a black, soft rot. The +best way to preserve cabbages for stock into the winter, is to place +them in trenches a few inches below the surface, and there cover with +from a foot to two feet of coarse hay or straw, the depth depending on +the coldness of the locality. When the ground has been frozen too hard +to open with a plough or spade, I have kept them until spring by piling +them loosely, hay-stack shape, about four feet high, letting the frost +strike through them, and afterwards covering with a couple of feet of +eel-grass; straw or coarse hay would doubtless do as well.</p> + +<p>I have treated of cabbage thus far when grown specially for stock; in +every piece of cabbage handled for market purposes, there is a large +proportion of waste suitable for stock feed, which includes the outside +leaves and such heads as have not hardened up sufficiently for market. +On walking over a piece just after my cabbages for seed stock have been +taken off, I note that the refuse leaves that were stripped from the +heads before pulling are so abundant they nearly cover the ground. If +leaves so stripped remain exposed to frost, they soon spoil; or, if +earlier in the season they are exposed to the sun, they soon become<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +yellow, dry, and of but little value. They can be rapidly collected with +a hay fork and carted, if there be but a few, into the barn; should +there be a large quantity, dump them within a convenient distance of the +barn or feeding ground, but not where the cattle can trample them, and +spread them so that they will be but a few inches in depth. If piled in +heaps they will quickly heat; but even then, if not too much decayed, +cattle will eat them with avidity. Cabbages are hardy plants, and loose +heads will stand a good deal of freezing and thawing without serious +injury. They are not generally injured with the thermometer 16° below +freezing. The waste, after the seed and all market cabbage are removed, +brings me about $10 per acre on the ground, for cow feed.</p> + +<p>If cabbage is fed to cows in milk without some care, it will be apt to +give the milk a strong cabbage flavor; all the feed for the day should +be given early in the morning. Beginning with a small quantity, and +gradually increasing it, the dairy man will soon learn his limits. The +effect of a liberal feed to milk stock is to largely increase the flow +of milk. Avoid feeding to any extent while the leaves are frozen.</p> + +<p>An English writer says: "The cabbage comes into use when other things +begin to fail, and it is by far the best succulent vegetable for milking +cows,—keeping up the yield of milk, and preserving, better than any +other food, some portion of the quality which cheese loses when the cows +quit their natural pasturage. Cows fed on cabbages are always quiet and +satisfied, while on turnips they often scour and are restless. When +frosted, they are liable to produce hoven, unless kept in a warm shed to +thaw before being used; fifty-six pounds given, at two meals, are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> as +much as a large cow should have in a day. Frequent cases of abortion are +caused by an over-supply of green food. Cabbages are excellent for young +animals, keeping them in health, and preventing 'black leg.' A calf of +seven months may have twenty pounds a day."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>RAISING CABBAGE SEED.</h2> + + +<p>Cabbage seed in England, particularly of the drumhead sorts, is mostly +raised from stumps, or from the refuse that remains after all that is +salable has been disposed of. The agent of one of the largest English +seed houses, a few years since, laughed at my "wastefulness," as he +termed it, in raising seed from solid heads. In our country, cabbage +seed is mostly raised from soft, half-formed heads, which are grown as a +late crop, few, if any of them, being hard enough to be of any value in +the market. Seedsmen practise selecting a few fine, hard heads, from +which to raise their seed stock. It has been my practice to grow seed +from none but extra fine heads, better than the average of those carried +to market. I do this on the theory that no cabbage can be too good for a +seedhead, if the design is to keep the stock first-class. Perhaps such +strictness may not be necessary; but I had rather err in setting out too +good heads than too poor ones; besides, the great hardness obtained by +the heads of the Stone Mason, makes it possible, at least, that I am +right. Cabbage raised from seed grown from stumps are apt to be +unreliable for heading, and to grow long-stumped, though under +unfavorable conditions, long-stumped and poor-headed cabbage may grow +from the best of seed. To have the best of seed, all shoots that start +below the head<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> should be broken off. To prevent the plants falling over +after the seed-stalks are grown, dig deep holes, and plant the entire +stump in the ground. Scarecrows should be set up, or some like +precaution be taken, to keep away the little seed-birds, that begin to +crack the pods as soon as they commence to ripen. A plaster cat is a +very good scarecrow to frighten away birds from seed and small fruits, +if its location is changed every few days.</p> + +<p>I find that the pods of cabbage seed grown South are tough, and not +brittle, like those grown North, and hence that they are injured but +little, if any, by seed birds. When the seed-pods have passed what +seedsmen call their "red" stage, they begin to harden; as soon as a +third of them are brown, the entire stalk may be cut and hung up in a +dry, airy place, for a few days, when the seed will be ready for rubbing +or threshing out. Different varieties should be raised far apart to +insure purity; and cabbage seed had better not be raised in the vicinity +of turnip seed. There is some difference of opinion as to the effect of +growing these near each other; where the two vegetables blossom at the +same time, I should fear an admixture. When the care requisite to select +good seed stock, and the trouble, and, often, great loss, in keeping it +over winter, planting it in isolated locations, protecting it from wind +and weather, guarding it from injury from birds and other enemies, +gathering it, cleaning it, are all considered, few men will find that +they can afford to raise their own seed, provided they can buy it from +reliable seedsmen.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC.</h2> + + +<p>Cabbage when boiled with salt pork, as it is mostly used, is the food +for strong and healthy digestive powers; but when eaten in its raw +state, served with vinegar and pepper, it is considered one of the most +easily digested articles of diet. In the process of cooking, even with +the greatest care, a large portion of the sweetness is lost. The length +of time required to cook cabbage by boiling varies with the quality, +those of the best quality requiring about twenty minutes, while others +require an hour. In cooking put it into boiling water in which a little +salt and soda has been sprinkled, which will tend to preserve the +natural green color. It will be well to change the water once. The +peculiar aroma given out by cabbage when cooking is thought to depend +somewhat on the manner in which it is grown; those having been raised +with the least rank manure having the least. I think this is one of the +whims of the community. By using some varieties of boilers all steam is +carried into the fire, and there is no smell in the house.</p> + +<p>To <i>Pickle</i>, select hard heads, quarter them, soak in salt and water +four or five days, then drain and treat as for other pickles, with +vinegar spiced to suit.</p> + +<p>For <i>Cold Slaw</i>, select hard heads, halve and then slice up these halves +exceedingly fine. Lay these in a deep dish, and pour over vinegar that +has been raised to the boiling point in which has been mixed a little +pepper and salt.</p> + +<p><i>Sour-Krout.</i> Take large, hard-headed drumheads, halve, and cut very +fine; then pack in a clean, tight barrel, beginning with a sprinkling of +salt, and follow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>ing with a layer of cabbage, and thus alternating until +the barrel is filled. Now compact the mass as much as possible by +pounding, after which put on a well-fitting cover resting on the +cabbage, and lay heavy weights or a stone on this. When fermented it is +ready for use. To prepare for the table fry in butter or fat.</p> + +<p>The outer green leaves of cabbages are sometimes used to line a brass or +copper kettle in which pickles are made in the belief that the vinegar +extracts the coloring substance (chlorophyl) in the leaves, and the +cucumbers absorbing this acquire a rich green color. Be not deceived by +this transparent cheat, O simple housewife! the coloring matter comes +almost wholly from the copper or brass behind those leaves; and, instead +of an innocent vegetable pigment, your green cucumbers are dyed with the +poisonous carbonate of copper.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CABBAGES UNDER GLASS.</h2> + + +<p>The very early cabbages usually bringing high prices, the enterprising +market gardener either winters the young plants under glass or starts +them there, planting the seed under its protecting shelter long before +the cold of winter is passed. When the design is to winter over fall +grown plants, the seed are planted in the open ground about the middle +of September, and at about the last of October they are ready to go into +the cold frames, as such are called that depend wholly on the sun for +heat. Select those having short stumps and transplant into the frames, +about an inch and a half by two inches apart, setting them deep in the +soil up to the lower leaves, shading them with a straw mat, or the like, +for a few days, after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> which let them remain without any glass over them +until the frost is severe enough to begin to freeze the ground, then +place over the sashes; but bear in mind that the object is not to +promote growth, but, as nearly as possible, to keep them in a dormant +state, to keep them so cold that they will not grow, and just +sufficiently protected to prevent injury from freezing. With this object +in view the sashes must be raised whenever the temperature is above +freezing, and this process will so harden the plants that they will +receive no serious injury though the ground under the sash should freeze +two inches deep; cabbage plants will stand a temperature of fifteen to +twenty degrees below the freezing point. A covering of snow on the sash +will do no harm, if it does not last longer than a week or ten days, in +which case it must be removed. There is some danger to be feared from +ground mice, who, when everything else is locked up by the frost, will +instinctively take to the sash, and there cause much destruction among +the plants unless these are occasionally examined. When March opens +remove the sash when the temperature will allow, replacing it when the +weather is unseasonably cold, particularly at night. The plants may be +brought still farther forward by transferring them from the hot-bed when +two or three inches high to cold frames, having first somewhat hardened +them. When so transferred plant them about an inch apart, and shield +from the sun for two or three days. After this they may be treated as in +cold frames. The transfer tends to keep them stocky, increases the +fibrous roots and makes the plants hardier. As the month advances it may +be left entirely off, and about the first of April the plants may be set +out in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> open field, pressing fine earth firmly around the roots.</p> + +<p>When cabbages are raised in hot-beds the seed, in the latitude of +Boston, should be planted on the first of March; in that of New York, +about a fortnight earlier. When two or three inches high, which will be +in three or four weeks, they should be thinned to about four or less to +an inch in the row. They should now be well hardened by partly drawing +off the sashes in the warm part of the day, and covering at night; as +the season advances remove the sashes entirely by day, covering only at +night. By about the middle of April the plants will be ready for the +open ground.</p> + +<p>When raised in cold frames in the spring, the seed should be planted +about the first of April, mats being used to retain by night the solar +heat accumulated during the day. As the season advances the same process +of hardening will be necessary as with those raised in hot-beds.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED.</h2> + + +<p>To carry on hot-beds on a large scale successfully is almost an art in +itself, and for fuller details I will refer my readers to works on +gardening. Early plants, in a small way, may be raised in flower pots or +boxes in a warm kitchen window. It is best, if practicable, to have but +one plant in each pot, that they may grow short and stocky. If the seed +are not planted earlier than April, for out-of-door cultivation, a cold +frame will answer.</p> + +<p>For a cold frame select the locality in the fall, choosing a warm +location on a southern slope, protected by a fence or building on the +north and north-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>west. Set posts in the ground, nail two boards to these +parallel to each other, one about a foot in height, and the other +towards the south about four inches narrower; this will give the sashes +resting on them the right slope to shed the rain and receive as much +heat as possible from the sun. Have these boards at a distance apart +equal to the length of the sash, which may be any common window sash for +a small bed, while three and a half feet is the length of a common +gardener's sash. If common window sash is used cut channels in the +cross-bars to let the water run off. Dig the ground thoroughly (it is +best to cover it in the fall with litter, to keep the frost out) and +rake out all stones or clods; then slide in the sash and let it remain +closed for three or four days, that the soil may be warmed by the sun's +rays. The two end boards and the bottom board should rise as high as the +sash, to prevent the heat escaping, and the bottom board of a small +frame should have a strip nailed inside to rest the sash on. Next rake +in, thoroughly, guano, or phosphate, or finely pulverized hen manure, +and plant in rows four to six inches apart. As the season advances raise +the sashes an inch or two, in the middle of the day, and water freely, +at evening, with water that is nearly of the temperature of the earth in +the frame. As the heat of the season increases whitewash the glass, and +keep them more and more open until just before the plants are set in +open ground, then allow the glass to remain entirely off, both day and +night, unless there should be a cold rain. This will harden them so that +they will not be apt to be injured by the cabbage beetle, as well as +chilled and put back by the change. Should the plants be getting too +large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> before the season for transplanting, they should be checked by +root pruning,—drawing a sharp knife within a couple of inches of the +stalk. If it is desirable still further to check their growth, or harden +them, transplant into another cold frame, allowing each plant double the +distance it before occupied.</p> + +<p>The structure and management of a hot-bed is much the same as that of a +cold frame, with the exception that the sashes are usually longer and +the back and front somewhat higher; being started earlier the requisite +temperature has to be kept up by artificial means, fermenting manure +being relied upon for the purpose; and the loss of this heat has to be +checked more carefully by straw matting, and, in the far North, by +shutters also. In constructing it, horse-manure, with plenty of litter, +and about a quarter its bulk in leaves, if attainable, all having been +well mixed together, is thrown into a pile, and left for a few days +until steam escapes, when the mass is again thrown over and left for two +or three days more, after which it is thrown into the pit (or it may be +placed directly on the surface) which is lined with boards, from +eighteen inches to two feet in depth, when it is beaten down with a fork +and trodden well together. The sashes are now put on and kept there +until heat is developed. The first intense heat must be allowed to pass +off, which will be in about three days after the high temperature is +reached. Now throw on six or eight inches of fine soil, in which mix +well rotted manure, free from all straw, or rake in, thoroughly, +superphosphate, or guano, at the rate of two thousand pounds to the +acre, and plant the seed as in cold frame. Harden the plants as directed +in preceding paragraph.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE, AND SEA-KALE.</h2> + + +<p>My treatise on the cabbage would hardly be complete without some +allusion to such prominent members of the Brassica family as the +cauliflower, broccoli, brussels-sprouts, and kale.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflower.</b> Wrote the great Dr. Johnson: "Of all the flowers of the +garden, give me the cauliflower." Whether from this we are to infer the +surpassing excellence of this member of the Brassica family, or that the +distinguished lexicographer meant emphatically to state his preference +of utility to beauty (perhaps our own Ben. Franklin took a leaf from +him), each reader must be his own judge; but be that as it may, it +remains true, beyond all controversy, that the cauliflower, in toothsome +excellence, stands at the head of the great family of which it is a +member. To be successful, and raise choice cauliflowers, is the height +of the ambition of the market gardener; and, with all his experience, +and with every facility at hand, he does not expect full success oftener +than three years in four. The cauliflower, like the strawberry, is +exceedingly sensitive to the presence or absence of sufficient water, +and success or failure with the crop may turn on its having a full +supply from the time they are half grown. The finest specimens raised in +Europe are grown in beds, which are kept well watered from the supply +which runs between them; and the most successful growers in the country +irrigate their crops during periods of drouth. Cauliflowers do best on +deep, rich, rather moist soils. In the way of food, they want the very +best, and plenty of it at that. The successful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> competitor, who won the +first prize at the great Bay State Fair, to the disgusted surprise of a +grower justly famous for his almost uniform success in winning the +laurels, whispered in my ear his secret: "R. manures very heavily in the +spring for his crop. I manure very heavily both fall and spring." In +manuring, therefore, do as well by them as by your heaviest crop of +large drumhead cabbage, using rich and well-rotted manure, broadcast, +with dissolved bone or ashes, or both, in the drill. Plough deep, and +work the land very thoroughly, two ploughings, with a harrowing between, +are better than one. Give plenty of room; three by three for the smaller +sorts, and three by three and a half for the later and larger. They need +the same cultivation, and, being subject to the same diseases and injury +from insect enemies, need the same protection as their cousins of the +cabbage tribe. In raising for the summer market, start in the cold +frame, or plant as early as the ground can be worked, that the plants +may get well started before the dry season, or the crop will be likely +to make such small heads "buttons" as to be practically a failure. For +late crop, plant seed in the hills where they are to grow, from the 20th +of May to the middle of June. The crop ripens somewhat irregularly. When +there is danger from frost, the later heads should be pulled and stored, +with both roots and leaves, being crowded, standing as they grew, into a +cold cellar or cold pit, when they will continue growing. As soon as the +heads begin to form, they should be protected from sunlight by either +half breaking off the outer leaves and bending them over them, or by +gathering these leaves loosely together and confining them loosely by +rough pegs, or by tying them together with a wisp of rye-straw.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Varieties.</b> These are almost as numerous as in the cabbage family. I +find notes on some thirty-five varieties, tested from year to year, in +my experimental grounds. Most of them prove themselves to be but a +lottery, in this country of dry seasons, though in the moister climate +of the European localities, where they are at home, they are a success.</p> + + +<div class="figleft"> + <img src="images/img89-1.jpg" + alt="The Half-Early Paris." /><br /> + <b>The Half-Early Paris.</b> + </div> +<div class="figright"> + <img src="images/img89-2.jpg" + alt="Extra-Early Dwarf Erfurt." /><br /> + <b>Extra-Early Dwarf Erfurt.</b> + </div> +<div class="figright"> + <img src="images/img90.jpg" + alt="Long Island Beauty." /><br /> + <b>Long Island Beauty.</b> + </div> +<p>The Half-Early Paris, or Demi-Dur, was for years the standard variety +raised in this country, and from this, by selection, favorite local +varieties were obtained; but, of late years, this has been, to a large +degree, superseded by several excellent sorts, of which the Extra-Early +Dwarf Erfurt was, doubtless the parent. Principal among these varieties +are the Snowball, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> Sea-Foam, Vick's Ideal, and Berlin Dwarf. All of +these are early sorts and excellent strains. After testing them side by +side, I find that the best strain of the Snowball is not excelled by +either of them. Of the somewhat later ripening sorts, a variety which +originated in this country, called the "Long Island Beauty," gives me +great satisfaction, in its reliability for heading, and in the large +size of its heads; this, with the Algerian, as a larger late sort, will +give us a first-class series.</p> + + +<p>Cauliflower seed is not raised, as yet, to any large extent in this +country, though some successful efforts have recently been made in this +direction. I have found that there is a remarkable difference between +varieties in the quantity of seed they will yield. From one variety I +have raised as high as sixty pounds of seed from a given number of +plants, while from two others, equally early, having the same number of +plants in each instance, and raised in the same location (an island in +the ocean), with precisely the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> same treatment in every way, I got, in +each case, less than a tablespoonful of seed, though the heads of some +of them grew to the enormous size of sixteen inches in diameter.</p> + +<p>A fine cauliflower is the pet achievement of the market gardener. The +great aim is not to produce size only, "but the fine, white, creamy +color, compactness, and what is technically called curdy appearance, +from its resemblance to the curd of milk in its preparation for cheese. +When the flower begins to open, or when it is of a warty or frost-like +appearance, it is less esteemed. It should not be cut in summer above a +day before it is used." The cauliflower is served with milk and butter, +or it may become a component of soups, or be used as a pickle.</p> + +<p>The <b>Broccoli</b> are closely allied to the cauliflower, the white +varieties bearing so close a resemblance that one of them, the +Walcheren, is by some classed indiscriminately with each. The chief +distinction between the two is in hardiness, the broccoli being much the +hardier.</p> + +<p>Of Broccoli over forty varieties are named in foreign catalogues, of +which <span class="smcap">Walcheren</span> is one of the very best. <span class="smcap">Knight's +Protecting</span> is an exceedingly hardy dwarf sort. As a rule, the white +varieties are preferred to the purple kinds. Plant and treat as +cauliflower.</p> + +<p>Of <b>Brussels-Sprouts</b> (or bud-bearing cabbage) there are but two +varieties, the dwarf and the tall; the tall kind produces more buds, +while the dwarf is the hardier. The "sprouts" form on the stalks, and +are miniature heads of cabbage from the size of a pea to that of a +pigeon's egg. They are raised to but a limited extent in this country, +but in Europe they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> are grown on a large scale. The sprouts may be +cooked and served like cabbage, though oftentimes they are treated more +as a delicacy and served with butter or some rich sauce. The <span class="smcap">Feather +Stem Savoy</span> and <span class="smcap">Dalmeny Sprouts</span> are considered as hybrids, +the one between the brussels-sprouts and Savoy, the other between it and +Drumhead Savoy. The soil for brussels-sprouts should not be so rich as +for cabbage, as the object is to grow them small and solid. Give the +same distance apart as for early cabbage, and the same manner of +cultivation. Break off the leaves at the sides a few at a time when the +sprouts begin to form and when they are ready to use cut them off with a +sharp knife.</p> + +<p><b>Kale.</b> Sea-kale, or sea-cabbage, is a native of the sea coast of +England, growing in the sand and pebbles of the sea-shore. It is a +perennial, perfectly hardy, withstanding the coldest winters of New +England. The blossoms, though bearing a general resemblance to those of +other members of the cabbage family, are yet quite unique in appearance, +and I think worthy of a place in the flower garden. It is propagated +both by seed and by cuttings of the roots, having the rows three feet +apart, and the plants three feet apart in the rows. It is difficult to +get the seeds to vegetate. Plant seed in April and May. The ground +should be richly manured, and deeply and thoroughly worked. It is +blanched before using. In cooking it it requires to be very thoroughly +boiled, after which it is served up in melted butter and toasted bread. +The sea-kale is highly prized in England; but thus far its cultivation +in this country has been very limited.</p> + +<p>The <b>Borecole</b>, or common kale, is of the cabbage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> family, but is +characterized by not heading like the cabbage or producing eatable +flowers like the cauliflower and broccoli. The varieties are very +numerous, some of them growing very large and coarse, suitable only as +food for stock; others are exceedingly finely curled, and excellent for +table use; while others in their color and structure are highly +ornamental. They are annual, biennial, and perennial. They do not +require so strong a soil or such high manuring as other varieties of the +cabbage family.</p> + +<p>The varieties are almost endless; some of the best in cultivation for +table use are the <span class="smcap">Dwarf Scotch</span>, <span class="smcap">Dwarf Green Curled</span> or +<span class="smcap">German Greens</span>, <span class="smcap">Tall Green Curled</span>, <span class="smcap">Purple +Borecole</span>, and the variegated kales. The crown of the plant is used +as greens, or as an ingredient in soups. The kales are very hardy, and +the dwarf varieties, with but little protection, can be kept in the +North well into the winter in the open ground. Plant and cultivate like +Savoy cabbage.</p> + +<p>The variegated sorts, with their fine curled leaves of a rich purple, +green, red, white, or yellow color, are very pleasing in their effects, +and form a striking and attractive feature when planted in clumps in the +flower garden, particularly is this so because their extreme hardiness +leaves them in full vigor after the cold has destroyed all other +plants—some of the richest colors are developed along the veins of the +uppermost leaves after the plant has nearly finished its growth for the +season. The <span class="smcap">Jersey Cow Kale</span> grows to from three to six feet in +height and yields a great body of green food for stock; have the rows +about three feet apart, and the plants two to three feet distant in the +rows. In several instances my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> customers have written me that this kale +raised for stock feed has given them great satisfaction.</p> + +<p>The <span class="smcap">Thousand-Headed Kale</span> is a tall variety sending out numerous +side shoots, whence the name.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>SQUASHES:</h2> + +<h3>HOW TO GROW THEM.</h3> + +<h4>PRICE, 30 CENTS, BY MAIL.</h4> + +<p>This treatise is amply illustrated, and gives full particulars on every +point, including keeping and marketing the crop.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<h2>FERTILIZERS:</h2> + +<h3>WHERE THE MATERIALS COME FROM; HOW TO GET THEM IN THE CHEAPEST FORM; HOW +TO MAKE OUR OWN FERTILIZERS.</h3> + + +<p>In this work there will be found many valuable tables, with many +suggestions, and much information on the purchase of materials, the +combining of them, and the use of the fertilizers made from them. I +believe it will give a good return to any of my customers, for his +outlay. The treatise makes a book of 116 pages.</p> + +<h4>PRICE, BY MAIL, 40 CENTS.</h4> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>ONION RAISING:</h2> + + + <h3>WHAT KINDS TO RAISE</h3> + <h4>AND</h4> + <h3>THE WAY TO RAISE THEM.</h3> + + +<h4>BY</h4> + +<p class='center'> + JAMES J. H. GREGORY,<br /> + SEED GROWER AND DEALER,<br /> + MARBLEHEAD, MASS. +</p> + +<p>This work has been warmly recommended by some of the best authorities in +the country, and has gone through fourteen editions. It gives the +minutest details, from selecting the ground and preparing the soil, up +to gathering and marketing the crop. Illustrated with thirteen +engravings of Onions, Sowing Machines, and Weeding Machines.</p> + +<h4>PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></h4> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3>A NEW TREATISE.</h3> + +<h2>CARROTS, MANGOLD WURTZELS</h2> + +<h4>AND</h4> + +<h3>SUGAR BEETS.</h3> + +<h4>WHAT KIND TO RAISE:</h4> + +<h3>How to Grow Them<br /> +AND<br /> +How to Feed Them.</h3> + +<p>This treatise presents, in minutest detail, every step of progress, from +planting the seed to the matured crop.</p> + +<h4>BY</h4> + + + <h3>JAMES J. H. GREGORY,</h3> + <h4>MARBLEHEAD, MASS.</h4> + + +<h4>PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.</h4> +<p><br /></p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow +Them, by James John Howard Gregory + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS: *** + +***** This file should be named 19006-h.htm or 19006-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/0/0/19006/ + +Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images produced by Core Historical +Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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