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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them, by
+James John Howard Gregory
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them
+ A Practical Treatise, Giving Full Details On Every Point,
+ Including Keeping And Marketing The Crop
+
+Author: James John Howard Gregory
+
+Release Date: August 8, 2006 [EBook #19006]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS: ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images produced by Core Historical
+Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ New York
+ State College of Agriculture
+ At Cornell University
+ Ithaca, N. Y.
+ Library
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+ Cabbages
+
+ and
+
+ Cauliflowers:
+
+
+ HOW TO GROW THEM.
+
+ A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT,
+ INCLUDING KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.
+
+
+ [Illustration: Cabbage Head]
+
+
+ BY
+
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+
+ ORIGINAL INTRODUCER OF THE MARBLEHEAD, DEEP HEAD, WARREN,
+ ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING, AND REYNOLDS CABBAGES.
+
+
+ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+ In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
+
+
+
+
+ CONTENTS.
+
+ PAGE
+ OBJECT OF TREATISE 1
+
+ THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE 1
+
+ WHAT A CABBAGE IS 2
+
+ SELECTING THE SOIL 4
+
+ PREPARING THE SOIL 5
+
+ THE MANURE 6
+
+ HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE 8
+
+ MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED 11
+
+ CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS 16
+
+ PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES 18
+
+ THE GREEN WORM 22
+
+ CLUB, OR STUMP ROOT, OR MAGGOT 24
+
+ CARE OF THE GROWING CROP 29
+
+ MARKETING THE CROP 30
+
+ KEEPING CABBAGE THROUGH THE WINTER 32
+
+ HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER 39
+
+ FOREIGN VARIETIES OF CABBAGE 43-45
+
+ AMERICAN VARIETIES 46-60
+
+ SAVOY VARIETIES 60-63
+
+ OTHER VARIETIES 63-67
+
+ CABBAGE GREENS 67
+
+ CABBAGE FOR STOCK 69
+
+ RAISING CABBAGE SEED 73
+
+ COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC. 75
+
+ CABBAGE UNDER GLASS 76
+
+ COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED 78
+
+ CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE
+ AND SEA-KALE 81
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS.
+
+
+
+
+OBJECT OF THIS TREATISE.
+
+
+As a general, yet very thorough, response to inquiries from many of my
+customers about cabbage raising, I have aimed in this treatise to tell
+them all about the subject. The different inquiries made from time to
+time have given me a pretty clear idea of the many heads under which
+information is wanted; and it has been my aim to give this with the same
+thoroughness of detail as in my little work on Squashes. I have
+endeavored to talk in a very practical way, drawing from a large
+observation and experience, and receiving, in describing varieties, some
+valuable information from McIntosh's work, "The Book of the Garden."
+
+
+
+
+THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE.
+
+
+Botanists tell us that all of the Cabbage family, which includes not
+only every variety of cabbage, Red, White, and Savoy, but all the
+cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and brussels sprouts, had their origin in
+the wild cabbage of Europe (_Brassica oleracea_), a plant with green,
+wavy leaves, much resembling charlock, found growing wild at Dover in
+England, and other parts of Europe. This plant, says McIntosh, is mostly
+confined to the sea-shore, and grows only on chalky or calcareous
+soils.
+
+Thus through the wisdom of the Great Father of us all, who occasionally
+in his great garden allows vegetables to sport into a higher form of
+life, and grants to some of these sports sufficient strength of
+individuality to enable them to perpetuate themselves, and, at times, to
+blend their individuality with that of other sports, we have the heading
+cabbage in its numerous varieties, the creamy cauliflower, the feathery
+kale, the curled savoy. On my own grounds from a strain of seed that had
+been grown isolated for years, there recently came a plant that in its
+structure closely resembled Brussels Sprouts, growing about two feet in
+height, with a small head under each leaf. The cultivated cabbage was
+first introduced into England by the Romans, and from there nearly all
+the kinds cultivated in this country were originally brought. Those
+which we consider as peculiarly American varieties, have only been made
+so by years of careful improvement on the original imported sorts. The
+characteristics of these varieties will be given farther on.
+
+
+
+
+WHAT A CABBAGE IS.
+
+
+If we cut vertically through the middle of the head, we shall find it
+made up of successive layers of leaves, which grow smaller and smaller,
+almost _ad infinitum_. Now, if we take a fruit bud from an apple-tree
+and make a similar section of it, we shall find the same structure. If
+we observe the development of the two, as spring advances, we shall find
+another similarity (the looser the head the closer will be the
+resemblance),--the outer leaves of each will unwrap and unfold, and a
+flower stem will push out from each. Here we see that a cabbage is a
+bud, a seed bud (as all fruit buds may be termed, the production of
+seed being the primary object in nature, the fruit enclosing it playing
+but a secondary part), the office of the leaves being to cover, protect,
+and afterwards nourish the young seed shoot. The outer leaves which
+surround the head appear to have the same office as the leaves which
+surround the growing fruit bud, and that office closes with the first
+year, as does that of the leaves surrounding fruit buds, when each die
+and drop off. In my locality the public must have perceived more or less
+clearly the analogy between the heads of cabbage and the buds of trees,
+for when they speak of small heads they frequently call them "buds."
+That the close wrapped leaves which make the cabbage head and surround
+the seed germ, situated just in the middle of the head at the
+termination of the stump, are necessary for its protection and nutrition
+when young, is proved, I think, by the fact that those cabbages, the
+heads of which are much decayed, when set out for seed, no matter how
+sound the seed germ may be at the end of the stump, never make so large
+or healthy a seed shoot as those do the heads of which are sound; as a
+rule, after pushing a feeble growth, they die.
+
+For this reason I believe that the office of the head is similar to and
+as necessary as that of the leaves which unwrap from around the blossom
+buds of our fruit trees. It is true that the parallel cannot be fully
+maintained, as the leaves which make up the cabbage head do not to an
+equal degree unfold (particularly is this true of hard heads); yet they
+exhibit a vitality of their own, which is seen in the deeper green color
+the outer leaves soon attain, and the change from tenderness to
+toughness in their structure: I think, therefore, that the degree of
+failure in the parallel may be measured by the difference between a
+higher and a lower form of organic life.
+
+Some advocate the economy of cutting off a large portion of the heads
+when cabbages are set out for seed to use as food for stock. There is
+certainly a great temptation, standing amid acres of large, solid, heads
+in the early spring months, when green food of all kinds is scarce, to
+cut and use such an immense amount of rich food, which, to the
+inexperienced eye, appears to be utterly wasted if left to decay, dry,
+and fall to the ground; but, for the reason given above, I have never
+done so. It is possible that large heads may bear trimming to a degree
+without injury to the seed crop; yet I should consider this an
+experiment, and one to be tried with a good deal of caution.
+
+
+
+
+SELECTING THE SOIL.
+
+
+In some of the best cabbage-growing sections of the country, until
+within a comparatively few years it was the very general belief that
+cabbage would not do well on upland. Accordingly the cabbage patch would
+be found on the lowest tillage land of the farm. No doubt, the lowest
+soil being the richer from a gradual accumulation of the wash from the
+upland, when manure was but sparingly used, cabbage would thrive better
+there than elsewhere,--and not, as was generally held, because that
+vegetable needed more moisture than any other crop. Cabbage can be
+raised with success on any good corn land, provided such land is well
+manured; and there is no more loss in seasons of drouth on such land
+than there is in seasons of excessive moisture on the lower tillage land
+of the farm. I wish I could preach a very loud sermon to all my farmer
+friends on the great value of liberal manuring to carry crops
+successfully through the effects of a severe drouth. Crops on soil
+precisely alike, with but a wall to separate them, will, in a very dry
+season, present a striking difference,--the one being in fine vigor, and
+the other "suffering from drouth," as the owner will tell you; but, in
+reality, from want of food.
+
+The smaller varieties of cabbage will thrive well on either light or
+strong soil, but the largest drumheads do best on strong soil. For the
+_Brassica_ family, including cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, etc.,
+there is no soil so suitable as freshly turned sod, provided the surface
+is well fined by the harrow; it is well to have as stout a crop of
+clover or grass, growing on this sod, when turned under, as possible,
+and I incline to the belief that it would be a judicious investment to
+start a thick growth of these by the application of guano to the surface
+sufficiently long before turning the sod to get an extra growth of the
+clover or grass. If the soil be very sandy in character, I would advise
+that the variety planted be the Winnigstadt, which, in my experience, is
+unexcelled for making a hard head under almost any conditions, however
+unpropitious. Should the soil be naturally very wet it should be
+underdrained, or stump foot will be very likely to appear, which is
+death to all success.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING THE SOIL.
+
+
+Should the soil be a heavy clay, a deep fall ploughing is best, that the
+frosts of winter may disintegrate it; and should the plan be to raise an
+early crop, this end will be promoted by fall ploughing, on any soil, as
+the land will thereby be made drier in early spring. In New England the
+soil for cabbages should be ploughed as deep as the subsoil, and the
+larger drumheads should be planted only on the deepest soil. If the
+season should prove a favorable one, a good crop of cabbage may be grown
+on sod broken up immediately after a crop of hay has been taken from it,
+provided plenty of fine manure is harrowed in. One great risk here is
+from the dry weather that usually prevails at that season, preventing
+the prompt germination of the seed, or rooting of the plants. It is
+prudent in such a case to have a good stock of plants, that such as die
+may be promptly replaced. It is wise to plant the seed for these a week
+earlier than the main crop, for when transplanted to fill the vacant
+places it will take about a week for them to get well rooted.
+
+The manure may be spread on the surface of either sod or stubble land
+and ploughed under, or be spread on the surface after ploughing and
+thoroughly worked into the soil by the wheel harrow or cultivator. On
+ploughed sod I have found nothing so satisfactory as the class of wheel
+harrows, which not only cut the manure up fine and work it well under,
+but by the same operation cut and pulverize the turf until the sod may
+be left not over an inch in thickness. To do the work thus thoroughly
+requires a yoke of oxen or a pair of stout horses. All large stones and
+large pieces of turf that are torn up and brought to the surface should
+be carted off before making the hills.
+
+
+
+
+THE MANURE.
+
+
+Any manure but hog manure for cabbage,--barn manure, rotten kelp,
+night-soil, guano, fertilizers, wood ashes, fish, salt, glue waste, hen
+manure, slaughter-house manure. I have used all of these, and found
+them all good when rightly applied. If pure hog manure is used it is apt
+to produce that corpulent enlargement of the roots known in different
+localities as "stump foot," "underground head," "finger and thumb;" but
+I have found barn manure on which hogs have run, two hogs to each
+animal, excellent. The cabbage is the rankest of feeders, and to perfect
+the larger sort a most liberal allowance of the richest composts is
+required. To grow the smaller varieties either barn-yard manure, guano,
+fertilizers, or wood ashes, if the soil be in good condition, will
+answer; though the richer and more abundant the manure the larger are
+the cabbages, and the earlier the crop will mature.
+
+To perfect the large varieties of drumhead,--by which I mean to make
+them grow to the greatest size possible,--I want a strong compost of
+barn-yard manure, with night-soil and muck or fish-waste, and, if
+possible, rotten kelp. A compost into which night-soil enters as a
+component is best made by first covering a plot of ground, of easy
+access, with soil or muck that has been exposed to a winter's frost, to
+the depth of about eighteen inches, and raising around this a rim about
+three feet in height, and thickness. Into this the night-soil is poured
+from carts built for the purpose, until the receptacle is about
+two-thirds full. Barn manure is now added, being dropped around and
+covering the outer rim, and, if the supply is sufficient, on the top of
+the heap also, on which it can be carted after cold weather sets in.
+Early in spring, the entire mass should be pitched over, thoroughly
+broken up with the bar and pick where frozen, and the frozen masses
+thrown on the surface. In pitching over the mass, work the rim in
+towards the middle of the heap. After the frozen lumps have thawed, give
+the heap another pitching over, aiming to mix all the materials
+thoroughly together, and make the entire mass as fine as possible. A
+covering of sand, thrown over the heap, before the last pitching, will
+help fine it.
+
+To produce a good crop of cabbages, with a compost of this quality, from
+six to twelve cords will be required to the acre. If the land is in good
+heart, by previous high cultivation, or the soil is naturally very
+strong, six cords will give a fair crop of the small varieties; while,
+with the same conditions, from nine to twelve cords to the acre will be
+required to perfect the largest variety grown, the Marblehead Mammoth
+Drumhead.
+
+Of the other kinds of manure named above, I will treat farther under the
+head of:
+
+
+
+
+HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE.
+
+
+The manure is sometimes applied wholly in the hill, at other times
+partly broadcast and partly in the hill. If the farmer desires to make
+the utmost use of his manure for that season, it will be best to put
+most of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather short;
+but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year's
+crop, he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to use
+all my rich compost broadcast, and depend on guano, fertilizers, or hen
+manure in the hill. Let all guano, if at all lumpy, like the Peruvian,
+be sifted, and let all the hard lumps be reduced by pounding, until the
+largest pieces shall not be larger than half a pea, before it is
+brought upon the ground. My land being ready, the compost worked under
+and the rows marked out, I select three trusty hands who can be relied
+upon to follow faithfully my directions in applying so dangerous manure
+as guano is in careless or ignorant hands; one takes a bucket of it,
+and, if for large cabbage, drops as much as he can readily close in his
+shut hand, where each hill is to be; if for small sorts, then about half
+that quantity, spreading it over a circle about a foot in diameter; the
+second man follows with a pronged hoe, or better yet, a six-tined fork,
+with which he works the guano well into the soil, first turning it three
+or four inches under the surface, and then stirring the soil _very
+thoroughly_ with the hoe or fork. Unless the guano (and this is also
+true of most fertilizers) is faithfully mixed up with the soil, the seed
+will not vegetate. Give the second man about an hour the start, and then
+let the third man follow with the seed. Of other fertilizers, I use
+about half as much again as of guano to each hill, and of hen manure a
+heaping handful, after it has been finely broken up, and, if moist,
+slightly mixed with dry earth. When salt is used, it should not be
+depended on exclusively, but be used in connection with other manures,
+at the rate of from ten to fifteen bushels to the acre, applied
+broadcast over the ground, or thoroughly mixed with the manure before
+that is applied; if dissolved in the manure, better yet. Salt itself is
+not a manure. Its principal office is to change other materials into
+plant food. Fish and glue waste are exceedingly powerful manures, very
+rich in ammonia, and, if used the first season, they should be in
+compost. It is best to handle fish waste, such as heads, entrails,
+backbones, and liver waste, precisely like night soil. "Porgy cheese,"
+or "chum," the refuse, after pressing out the oil from menhaden and
+halibut heads, and sometimes sold extensively for manure, is best
+prepared for use by composting it with muck or loam, layer with layer,
+at the rate of a barrel to every foot and a half, cord measure, of soil.
+As soon as it shows some heat, turn it, and repeat the process, two or
+three times, until it is well decomposed, when apply. Another excellent
+way to use fish waste is to compost it with barn manure, in the open
+fields. It will be best to have six inches of soil under the heap, and
+not layer the fish with the lower half of the manure, for it strikes
+down. Glue waste is a very coarse, lumpy manure, and requires a great
+deal of severe manipulation, if it is to be applied the first season. A
+better way is to compost it with soil, layer with layer, having each
+layer about a foot in thickness, and so allow it to remain over until
+the next season, before using. This will decompose most of the straw,
+and break down the hard, tough lumps. In applying this to the crop, most
+of it had better be used broadcast, as it is apt, at best, to be rather
+too coarse and concentrated to be used liberally directly in the hill.
+Slaughter-house manure should be treated much like glue manure.
+
+Mr. Proctor, of Beverly, has raised cabbage successfully on strong clay
+soil, by spreading a compost of muck containing fish waste, in which the
+fish is well decomposed, at the rate of two tons of the fish to an acre
+of land, after plowing, and then, having made his furrows at the right
+distance apart, harrowing the land thoroughly crossways with the
+furrows. The result was, besides mixing the manure thoroughly with the
+soil, to land an extra proportion of it in the furrows, which was
+equivalent to manuring in the drill.
+
+Cabbage can be raised on fertilizers alone. I have raised some crops in
+this way; but have been led to plow in from four to six cords of good
+manure to the acre, and then use from five hundred to a thousand pounds
+of some good fertilizer in the hill. The reason I prefer to use a
+portion of the cabbage food in the form of manure, is, that I have
+noticed that when the attempt is made to raise the larger drumhead
+varieties on fertilizers only, the cabbages, just as the heads are well
+formed, are apt to come nearly to a standstill. I explain this on the
+supposition that they exhaust most of the fertilizer, or some one of the
+ingredients that enter into it, during the earlier stage of growth;
+perhaps from the fact that the food is in so easily digestible
+condition, they use an over share of it, and the fact that those fed on
+fertilizers only, tend to grow longer stumped than usual, appears to
+give weight to this opinion. Though any good fertilizer is good for
+cabbage, yet I prefer those compounded on the basis of an analysis of
+the composition of the plants; they should contain the three
+ingredients, nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in the proportion of
+six, seven, five, taking them in the order in which I have written them.
+
+
+
+
+MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED.
+
+
+The idea is quite prevalent that cabbages will not head up well except
+the plants are started in beds, and then transplanted into the hills
+where they are to mature. This is an error, so far as it applies to the
+Northern States,--the largest and most experienced cultivators of
+cabbage in New England usually dropping the seed directly where the
+plant is to stand, unless they are first started under glass, or the
+piece of land to be planted cannot be prepared in season to enable the
+farmer to put his seed directly in the hill and yet give the cabbage
+time sufficient to mature. Where the climate is unpropitious, or the
+quantity of manure applied is insufficient, it is possible that
+transplanting may promote heading. The advantages of planting directly
+in the hill, are a saving of time, avoiding the risks incidental to
+transplanting, and having all the piece start alike; for, when
+transplanted, many die and have to be replaced, while some hesitate much
+longer than others before starting, thus making a want of uniformity in
+the maturing of the crop. There is, also, this advantage, there being
+several plants in each hill, the cut-worm has to depredate pretty
+severely before he really injures the piece; again, should the seed not
+vegetate in any of the hills, every farmer will appreciate the advantage
+of having healthy plants growing so near at hand that they can be
+transferred to the vacant spaces with their roots so undisturbed that
+their growth is hardly checked. In addition to the labor of
+transplanting saved by this plan, the great check that plants always
+receive when so treated is prevented, and also the extra risks that
+occur should a season of drouth follow. It is the belief of some
+farmers, that plants growing where the seed was planted are less liable
+to be destroyed by the cut-worm than those that have been transplanted.
+When planning to raise late cabbage on upland, I sow a portion of the
+seed on a moist spot, or, in case a portion of the land is moist, I
+plant the hills on such land with an extra quantity of seed, that I may
+have enough plants for the whole piece, should the weather prove to be
+too dry for the seed to vegetate on the dryer portions of it. It is wise
+to sow these extra plants about a week earlier, for they will be put
+back about a week by transplanting them.
+
+Some of our best farmers drill their seed in with a sowing machine, such
+as is used for onions, carrots, and other vegetable crops. This is a
+very expeditious way, and has the advantage of leaving the plants in
+rows instead of bunches, as in the hill system, and thus enables the hoe
+to do most of the work of thinning. It has also this advantage: each
+plant being by itself can be left much longer before thinning, and yet
+not grow long in the stump, thus making it available for transplanting,
+or for sale in the market, for a longer period.
+
+The usual way of preparing the hills is to strike out furrows with a
+small, one-horse plough, as far apart as the rows are to be. As it is
+very important that the rows should be as straight as practicable, it is
+a good plan to run back once in each furrow, particularly on sod land
+where the plough will be apt to catch in the turf and jump out of line.
+A manure team follows, containing the dressing for the hills, which has
+previously been pitched over and beaten up until all the ingredients are
+fine and well mixed. This team is so driven, if possible, as to avoid
+running in the furrows. Two or three hands follow with forks or shovels,
+pitching the manure into the furrows at the distance apart that has been
+determined on for the hills. How far apart these are to be will depend
+on the varieties, from eighteen inches to four feet. On land that has
+been very highly manured for a series of years, cabbage can be planted
+nearer than on land that has been under the plow but a few years. For
+the distance apart for different varieties see farther on. The manure is
+levelled with hoes, a little soil is drawn over it, and a slight stamp
+with the back of the hoe is given to level this soil, and, at the same
+time, to mark the hill. The planter follows with seed in a tin box, or
+any small vessel having a broad bottom, and taking a small pinch between
+the thumb and forefinger he gives a slight scratch with the remaining
+fingers of the same hand, and dropping in about half a dozen seed covers
+them half an inch deep with a sweep of the hand, and packs the earth by
+a gentle pat with the open palm to keep the moisture in the ground and
+thus promote the vegetation of the seed. With care a quarter of a pound
+of seed will plant an acre, when dropped directly in the hills; but half
+a pound is the common allowance, as there is usually some waste from
+spilling, while most laborers plant with a free hand.
+
+The soil over the hills being very light and porous, careless hands are
+apt to drop the seed too deep. Care should be taken not to drop the seed
+all in one spot, but to scatter them over a surface of two or three
+inches square, that each plant may have room to develop without crowding
+its neighbors.
+
+If the seed is planted in a line instead of in a mass the plants can be
+left longer before the final thinning without danger of growing tall and
+weak.
+
+If the seed is to be drilled in, it will be necessary to scatter the
+manure all along the furrows, then cover with a plough, roughly leveling
+with a rake.
+
+Should the compost applied to the hills be very concentrated, it will
+be apt to produce stump foot; it will, therefore, be safest in such
+cases to hollow out the middle with the corner of the hoe, or draw the
+hoe through and fill in with earth, that the roots of the young plants
+may not come in direct contact with the compost as soon as they begin to
+push.
+
+When guano or phosphates are used in the hills it will be well to mark
+out the rows with a plough, and then, where each hill is to be, fill in
+the soil level to the surface with a hoe, before applying them. I have,
+in a previous paragraph, given full instructions how to apply these. Hen
+manure, if moist, should be broken up very fine, and be mixed with some
+dry earth to prevent it from again lumping together, and the mixture
+applied in sufficient quantity to make an equivalent of a heaping
+handful of pure hen manure to each hill. Any liquid manure is excellent
+for the cabbage crop; but it should be well diluted, or it will be
+likely to produce stump foot.
+
+Cabbage seed of almost all varieties are nearly round in form, but are
+not so spherical as turnip seed. I note, however, that seed of the
+Savoys are nearly oval. In color they are light brown when first
+gathered, but gradually turn dark brown if not gathered too early. An
+ounce contains nearly ten thousand seed, but should not be relied upon
+for many over two thousand good plants, and these are available for
+about as many hills only when raised in beds and transplanted; when
+dropped directly in the hills it will take not far from eight ounces of
+the larger sorts to plant an acre, and of the smaller cabbage rather
+more than this. Cabbage seed when well cured and kept in close bags will
+retain their vitality four or five years; old gardeners prefer seed of
+all the cabbage family two or three years old.
+
+When the plan is to raise the young plants in beds to be transplanted,
+the ground selected for the beds should be of rich soil; this should be
+very thoroughly dug, and the surface worked and raked very fine, every
+stone and lump of earth being removed. Now sprinkle the seed evenly over
+the bed and gently rake in just under the surface, compacting the soil
+by pressure with a board. As soon as the young plants appear, sprinkle
+them with air-slaked lime. Transplant when three or four inches high,
+being very careful not to let the plants get tall and weak.
+
+For late cabbage, in the latitude of Boston, to have cabbages ready for
+market about the first of November, the Marblehead Mammoth should be
+planted the 20th of May, other late drumheads from June 1st to June
+12th, provided the plants are not to be transplanted; otherwise a week
+earlier. In those localities where the growing season is later, the seed
+should be planted proportionally later.
+
+
+
+
+CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS.
+
+
+In four or five days, if the weather is propitious, the young plants
+will begin to break ground, presenting at the surface two leaves, which
+together make nearly a square, like the first leaves of turnips or
+radishes. As soon as the third leaf is developed, go over the piece, and
+boldly thin out the plants. Wherever they are very thick, pull a mass of
+them with the fingers and thumb, being careful to fill up the hole made
+with fine earth. After the fourth leaf is developed, go over the piece
+again and thin still more; you need specially to guard against a
+slender, weak growth, which will happen when the plants are too
+crowded. In thinning, leave the short-stumped plants, and leave them as
+far apart in the hill as possible, that they may not shade each other,
+or so interfere in growing as to make long stumps. If there is any
+market for young plants, thousands can be sold from an acre when the
+seed are planted in the hill; but in doing this bear in mind that your
+principal object is to raise cabbages, and to succeed in this the young
+plants must on no account be allowed to stand so long together in the
+hills as to crowd each other, making a tall, weak, slender
+growth,--getting "long-legged," as the farmers call it.
+
+If the manure in any of the hills is too strong, the fact will be known
+by its effects on the plants, which will be checked in their growth, and
+be of a darker green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away the
+earth from the roots of such with the fingers, and draw around fresh
+earth; or, what is as well or better, transplant a healthy plant just on
+the edge of the hill. When the plants are finger high they are of a good
+size to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. When
+transplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and do not begin until
+sufficient rain has fallen to moisten the earth around the roots, which
+will make it more likely to adhere to them when taken up. Take up the
+young plants by running the finger or a trowel under them; put these
+into a flat basket or box, and in transplanting set them to the same
+depth they originally grew, pressing the earth a little about the roots.
+
+If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry spell, as usually
+happens, select the latter part of the afternoon, if practicable, and,
+making holes with a dibble, or any pointed stick an inch and a half in
+diameter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with water; and
+as soon as the water is about soaked away, beginning with the hole first
+filled, set out your plants. The evaporation of the moisture below the
+roots will keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants have
+great tenacity of life, and will rally and grow when they appear to be
+dead; the leaves may all die, and dry up like hay, but if the stump
+stands erect and the unfolded leaf at the top of the stump is alive, the
+plant will usually survive. When the plants are quite large, they may be
+used successfully by cutting or breaking off the larger leaves. Some
+advocate wilting the plants before transplanting, piling them in the
+cellar a few days before setting them out, to toughen them and get a new
+setting of fine roots; others challenge their vigor by making it a rule
+to do all transplanting under the heat of mid-day. I think there is not
+much of reason in this latter course. The young plants can be set out
+almost as fast as a man can walk, by holding the roots close to one side
+of the hole made by the dibble, and at the same moment pressing earth
+against them with the other hand.
+
+
+
+
+PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES.
+
+
+As soon as they have broken through the soil, an enemy awaits them in
+the small black insect commonly known as the cabbage or turnip fly,
+beetle, or flea. This insect, though so small as to appear to the eye as
+a black dot, is very voracious and surprisingly active. He apparently
+feeds on the juice of the young plant, perforating it with small holes
+the size of a pin point. He is so active when disturbed that his
+motions cannot be followed by the eye, and his sense of danger is so
+keen that only by cautiously approaching the plant can he be seen at
+all. The delay of a single day in protecting the young plants from his
+ravages will sometimes be the destruction of nearly the entire piece.
+Wood ashes and air-slaked lime, sprinkled upon the plants while the
+leaves are moist from either rain or dew, afford almost complete
+protection. The lime or ashes should be applied as soon as the plant can
+be seen, for then, when they are in their tenderest condition, the fly
+is most destructive. I am not certain that the alkaline nature of these
+affords the protection, or whether a mere covering by common dust might
+not answer equally well. Should the covering be washed off by rain,
+apply it anew immediately after the rain has ceased, and so continue to
+keep the young plants covered until the third or fourth leaves are
+developed when they will have become too tough to serve as food for this
+insect enemy.
+
+A new enemy much dreaded by all cabbage raisers will begin to make his
+appearance about the time the flea disappears, known as the cut-worm.
+This worm is of a dusky brown color, with a dark colored head, and
+varies in size up to about two inches in length. He burrows in the
+ground just below the surface, is slow of motion, and does his
+mischievous work at night, gnawing off the young plants close at the
+surface of the ground. This enemy is hard to battle with. If the patch
+be small, these worms can be scratched out of their hiding places by
+pulling the earth carefully away the following morning for a few inches
+around the stump of the plant destroyed, when the rascals will usually
+be found half coiled together. Dropping a little wood ashes around the
+plants close to the stumps is one of the best of remedies; its alkaline
+properties burning his nose I presume. A tunnel of paper put around the
+stump but not touching it, and sunk just below the surface, is
+recommended as efficacious; and from the habits of the worm I should
+think it would prove so. Perpendicular holes four inches deep and an
+inch in diameter is said to catch and hold them as effectively as do the
+pit falls of Africa the wild animals. Late planted cabbage will suffer
+little or none from this pest, as he disappears about the middle of
+June. Some seasons they are remarkably numerous, making it necessary to
+replant portions of the cabbage patch several times over. I have heard
+of as many as twenty being dug at different times the same season out of
+one cabbage hill. The farmer who tilled that patch earned his dollars.
+When the cabbage has a stump the size of a pipe stem it is beyond the
+destructive ravages of the cut-worm, and should it escape stump foot has
+usually quite a period of growth free from the attacks of enemies.
+Should the season prove unpropitious and the plant be checked in its
+growth, it will be apt to become "lousy," as the farmers term it,
+referring to its condition when attacked by a small green insect known
+as aphidę, which preys upon it in myriads; when this is the case the
+leaves lose their bright green, turn of a bluish cast, the leaf stocks
+lose somewhat of their supporting powers, the leaves curl up into
+irregular shapes, and the lower layer turns black and drops off, while
+the ground under the plant appears covered with the casts or bodies of
+the insects as with a white powder. When in this condition the plants
+are in a very bad way.
+
+Considering the circumstances under which this insect appears, usually
+in a very dry season, I hold that it is rather the product than the
+cause of disease, as with the bark louse on our apple-trees; as a remedy
+I advocate sprinkling the plants with air-slaked lime, watering, if
+possible, and a frequent and thorough stirring of the soil with the
+cultivator and hoe. The better the opportunities the cabbage have to
+develop themselves through high manuring, sufficient moisture, good
+drainage, and thorough cultivation, the less liable they are to be
+"lousy." As the season advances there will sometimes be found patches
+eaten out of the leaves, leaving nothing but the skeleton of leaf veins;
+an examination will show a band of caterpillars of a light green color
+at work, who feed in a compact mass, oftentimes a square, with as much
+regularity as though under the best of military discipline. The readiest
+way to dispose of them is to break off the leaf and crush them under
+foot. The common large red caterpillar occasionally preys on the plants,
+eating large holes in the leaves, especially about the head. When the
+cabbage plot is bordered by grass land, in seasons when grasshoppers are
+plenty, they will frequently destroy the outer rows, puncturing the
+leaves with small holes, and feeding on them until little besides their
+skeletons remain. In isolated locations rabbits and other vegetable
+feeders sometimes commit depredations. The snare and the shot-gun are
+the remedy for these.
+
+Other insects that prey upon the cabbage tribe, in their caterpillar
+state, are the cabbage moth, white-line, brown-eyed moth, large white
+garden butterfly, white and green veined butterfly. All of these produce
+caterpillars, which can be destroyed either by application of
+air-slaked lime, or by removing the leaves infested and crushing the
+intruders under foot. The cabbage-fly, father-long-legs, the millipedes,
+the blue cabbage-fly, brassy cabbage-flea, and two or three other insect
+enemies are mentioned by McIntosh as infesting the cabbage fields of
+England; also three species of fungi known as white rust, mildew, and
+_cylindrosporium concentricum_; these last are destroyed by the
+sprinkling of air-slaked lime on the leaves. In this country, along the
+sea coast of the northern section, in open-ground cultivation, there is
+comparatively but little injury done by these marauders, which are the
+cause of so much annoyance and loss to our English cousins.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREEN WORM.
+
+
+A new and troublesome enemy to the cabbage tribe which has made its
+appearance within a few years, and spread rapidly over a large section
+of the country, is a green worm, _Anthomia brassicę_. This pest infests
+the cabbage tribe at all stages of its growth; it is believed to have
+been introduced into this country from Europe, by the way of Canada,
+where it was probably brought in a lot of cabbage. It is the caterpillar
+of a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. In Europe, this
+butterfly is preyed on by two or more parasites, which keep it somewhat
+in check; but its remarkably rapid increase in this country, causing a
+wail of lamentation to rise in a single season from the cabbage growers
+over areas of tens of thousands of square miles, proved that when it
+first appeared it had reached this country without its attendant
+parasites.
+
+Besides this green worm, there are found in Europe four varieties of
+caterpillar variously marked, the caterpillars from all of which make
+great havoc among the cabbage tribe.
+
+The most effective destroyer of this, and about every other insect pest,
+is what is known as the "Kerosene Emulsion." This is made by churning
+common kerosene with milk or soap until it is diffused through the
+liquid.
+
+Take one quart of kerosene oil and pour it into a pint of hot water in
+which an ounce of common soap has been dissolved; churn this briskly
+while hot (a force pump is excellent for this), and, when well mixed,
+which will be in a few minutes, it will be of a creamy consistency; mix
+one quart to ten or twelve of cold water, and spray or sprinkle it over
+the plants with a force-pump syringe or a whisk broom.
+
+Another remedy is pyrethrum. Use that which is fresh; either blowing it
+on in a dry state with a bellows, wherever the worm appears, or using it
+diluted, at the rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons of water;
+applying as with the kerosene emulsion. Mr. A. S. Fuller, who is good
+authority on garden matters, succeeds by applying tar-water. Place a
+couple of quarts of coal tar in a barrel and fill with water; let it
+stand forty-eight hours, then dip off, and apply with a watering-pot, or
+syringe.
+
+Chickens allowed to run freely among the growing plants, the hen being
+confined in a movable coop, if once attracted to them will fatten on
+them. This remedy might answer very well for small plots. Large areas in
+cabbage, in proportion to their size are, as a rule, far less injured by
+insect enemies than small patches. The worm is of late years less
+troublesome in the North than formerly.
+
+
+
+
+CLUB OR STUMP FOOT AND MAGGOT.
+
+
+The great dread of every cabbage grower is a disease of the branching
+roots, producing a bunchy, gland-like enlargement, known in different
+localities under the name of club foot, stump foot, underground head,
+finger and thumb. The result is a check in the ascent of the sap, which
+causes a defective vitality. There are two theories as to the origin of
+club foot; one that it is a disease caused by poor soil, bad
+cultivation, and unsuitable manures; the other that the injury is done
+by an insect enemy, _Curculio contractus_. It is held by some that the
+maggots at the root are the progeny of the cabbage flea. This I doubt.
+This insect, "piercing the skin of the root, deposits its eggs in the
+holes, lives during a time on the sap of the plant, and then escapes and
+buries itself for a time in the soil."
+
+If the wart, or gland-like excrescence, is seen while transplanting,
+throw all such plants away, unless your supply is short; in such case,
+carefully trim off all the diseased portions with a sharp knife. If the
+disease is in the growing crop, it will be made evident by the drooping
+of the leaves under the mid-day sun, leaves of diseased plants drooping
+more than those of healthy ones, while they will usually have a bluer
+cast. Should this disease show itself, set the cultivator going
+immediately, and follow with the hoe, drawing up fresh earth around the
+plants, which will encourage them to form new fibrous roots; should they
+do this freely, the plants will be saved, as the attacks of the insect
+are usually confined to the coarse, branching roots. Should the disease
+prevail as late as when the plants have reached half their growth, the
+chances are decidedly against raising a paying crop.
+
+When the land planted is too wet, or the manure in the hill is too
+strong, this dreaded disease is liable to be found on any soil; but it
+is most likely to manifest itself on soils that have been previously
+cropped with cabbage, turnip, or some other member of the Brassica
+family.
+
+Farmers find that, as a rule, _it is not safe to follow cabbage, ruta
+baga, or any of the Brassica family, with cabbage, unless three or four
+years have intervened between the crops_; and I have known an instance
+in growing the Marblehead Mammoth, where, though five years had
+intervened, that portion of the piece occupied by the previous crop
+could be distinctly marked off by the presence of club-foot.
+
+Singular as it may appear, old gardens are an exception to this rule.
+While it is next to impossible to raise, in old gardens, a fair turnip,
+free from club-foot, cabbages may be raised year after year on the same
+soil with impunity, or, at least, with but trifling injury from that
+disease. This seems to prove, contrary to English authority, that
+club-foot in the turnip tribe is the effect of a different cause from
+the same disease in the cabbage family.
+
+There is another position taken by Stephens in his "Book of the Farm,"
+which facts seem to disprove. He puts forth the theory that "all such
+diseases arise from poverty of the soil, either from want of manure when
+the soil is naturally poor, or rendered effete by over-cropping." There
+is a farm on a neck of land belonging to this town (Marblehead, Mass.),
+which has peculiar advantages for collecting sea kelp and sea moss, and
+these manures are there used most liberally, particularly in the
+cultivation of cabbage, from eight to twelve cords of rotten kelp, which
+is stronger than barn manure, and more suitable food for cabbage, being
+used to the acre. A few years ago, on a change of tenants, the new
+incumbent heavily manured a piece for cabbage, and planted it; but, as
+the season advanced, stump-foot developed in every cabbage on one side
+of the piece, while all the remainder were healthy. Upon inquiry, he
+learned that, by mistake, he had overlapped the cabbage plot of last
+season just so far as the stump-foot extended. In this instance, it
+could not have been that the cabbage suffered for want of food; for, not
+only was the piece heavily manured that year and the year previous, but
+it had been liberally manured through a series of years, and, to a large
+extent, with the manure which, of all others, the cabbage tribe delight
+in, rotten kelp and sea mosses. I have known other instances where soil,
+naturally quite strong, and kept heavily manured for a series of years,
+has shown stump-foot when cabbage were planted, with intervals of two
+and three years between. My theory is, that the _mere presence of the
+cabbage_ causes stump-foot on succeeding crops grown on the same soil.
+This is proved by the fact that where a piece of land in grass, close
+adjoining a piece of growing cabbage, had been used for stripping them
+for market, when this was broken up the next season and planted to
+cabbage, stump-foot appeared only on that portion where the waste leaves
+fell the year previous. I have another instance to the same point, told
+me by an observing farmer, that, on a piece of sod land, on which he ran
+his cultivator the year previous, when turning his horse every time he
+had cultivated a row, he had stump-footed cabbage the next season just
+as far as that cultivator went, dragging, of course, a few leaves and a
+little earth from the cabbage piece with it. Still, though the mere
+presence of cabbage causes stump-foot, it is a fact, that, under certain
+conditions, cabbage can be grown on the same piece of land year after
+year successfully, with but very little trouble from stump-foot. In this
+town (Marblehead), though, as I have stated, we cannot, on our farms,
+follow cabbage with cabbage, even with the highest of manuring and
+cultivation, yet in the gardens of the town, on the same kind of soil
+(and our soil is green stone and syenite, not naturally containing
+lime), there are instances where cabbage has been successfully followed
+by cabbage, on the same spot, for a quarter of a century and more. In
+the garden of an aged citizen of this town, cabbages have been raised
+_on the same spot of land_ for over half a century.
+
+The cause of stump foot cannot, therefore, be found in the poverty of
+the soil, either from want of manure or its having been rendered effete
+from over cropping. It is evident that by long cultivation soils
+gradually have diffused through them something that proves inimical to
+the disease that produces stump foot. I will suggest as probable that
+the protection is afforded by the presence of some alkali that old
+gardens are constantly acquiring through house waste which is always
+finding its way there, particularly the slops from the sink, which
+abound in potash. This is rendered further probable from the fact given
+by Mr. Peter Henderson, that, on soils in this vicinity, naturally
+abounding in lime, cabbage can be raised year following year with almost
+immunity from stump foot. He ascribes this to the effects of lime in
+the soil derived from marine shells, and recommends that lime from bones
+be used to secure the same protection; but the lime that enters into the
+composition of marine shells is for the most part carbonate of lime,
+whereas the greater portion of that which enters into the composition of
+bones is phosphate of lime. Common air-slaked lime is almost pure
+carbonate of lime, and hence comes nearer to the composition of marine
+shells than lime from bones, and, being much cheaper, would appear to be
+preferable.
+
+An able farmer told me that by using wood ashes liberally he could
+follow with cabbage the next season on the same piece. One experiment of
+my own in this direction did not prove successful, where ashes at the
+rate of two hundred bushels to the acre were used; and I have an
+impression that I have read of a like want of success after quite
+liberal applications of lime. In a more recent experiment, on a gravelly
+loam on one of my seed farms in Middleton, Mass., where two hundred
+bushels of unleached ashes were used per acre, three-fourths broadcast,
+I have had complete success, raising as good a crop as I ever grew the
+second year on the same land, without a single stump foot on half an
+acre. Still, it remains evident, I think, that nature prevents stump
+foot by the diffusing of alkalies through the soil, and I mistrust that
+the reason why we sometimes fail with the same remedies is that we have
+them mixed, rather than intimately combined, with the particles of soil.
+
+The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by a maggot, though
+there is no club root present. A remedy for this is said to be in the
+burying of a small piece of bi-sulphide of carbon within a few inches
+of the diseased plant. I have never tried it, but know that there is no
+better insecticide.
+
+As I have stated under another head, an attack of club foot is almost
+sure to follow the use of pure hog manure, whether it be used broadcast
+or in the hill. About ten years ago I ventured to use hog manure nearly
+pure, spread broadcast and ploughed in. Stump foot soon showed itself. I
+cultivated and hoed the cabbage thoroughly; then, as they still appeared
+sickly, I had the entire piece thoroughly dug over with a six-tined
+fork, pushing it as deep or deeper into the soil than the plough had
+gone, to bring up the manure to the surface; but all was of no use; I
+lost the entire crop. Yet, on another occasion, stable manure on which
+hogs had been kept at the rate of two hogs to each animal, gave me one
+of the finest lots of cabbage I ever raised.
+
+
+
+
+CARE OF THE GROWING CROP.
+
+
+As soon as the young plants are large enough to be seen with the naked
+eye, in with the cultivator and go and return once in each row, being
+careful not to have any lumps of earth cover the plants. Follow the
+cultivator immediately with the hoe, loosening the soil about the hills.
+The old rule with farmers is to cultivate and hoe cabbage three times
+during their growth, and it is a rule that works very well where the
+crop is in good growing condition; but if the manure is deficient, the
+soil bakes, or the plants show signs of disease, then cultivate and hoe
+once or twice extra. "Hoe cabbage when wet," is another farmer's axiom.
+In a small garden patch the soil may be stirred among the plants as
+often as may be convenient: it can do no harm; cabbages relish tending,
+though it is not necessary to do this every day, as one enthusiastic
+cultivator evidently thought, who declared that, by hoeing his cabbages
+every morning, he had succeeded in raising capital heads.
+
+If a season of drouth occurs when the cabbages have begun to head, the
+heads will harden prematurely; and then should a heavy rain fall, they
+will start to make a new growth, and the consequence will be many of
+them will split. Split or bursted cabbage are a source of great loss to
+the farmer, and this should be carefully guarded against by going
+frequently over the piece when the heads are setting, and starting every
+cabbage that appears to be about mature. A stout-pronged potato hoe
+applied just under the leaves, and a pull given sufficient to start the
+roots on one side, will accomplish what is needed. If cabbage that have
+once been started seem still inclined to burst, start the roots on the
+other side. Instead of a hoe they may be pushed over with the foot, or
+with the hand. Frequently, heads that are thus started will grow to
+double the size they had attained when about to burst. There is a marked
+difference in this habit in different varieties of cabbage. I find that
+the Hard-heading is less inclined to burst its head than any of the
+kinds I raise.
+
+
+
+
+MARKETING THE CROP.
+
+
+When preparing for market cabbages that have been kept over winter,
+particularly if they are marketed late in the season, the edges of the
+leaves of some of the heads will be found to be more or less decayed; do
+not strip such leaves off, but with a sharp knife cut clean off the
+decayed edges. The earlier the variety the sooner it needs to be
+marketed, for, as a rule, cabbages push their shoots in the spring in
+the order of their earliness. If they have not been sufficiently
+protected from the cold, the stumps will often rot off close to the
+head, and sometimes the rot will include the part of the stump that
+enters the head. If the watery-looking portion can be cut clean out, the
+head is salable; otherwise it will be apt to have an unpleasant flavor
+when cooked. As a rule, cabbages for marketing should be trimmed into as
+compact a form as possible; the heads should be cut off close to the
+stump, leaving two or three spare leaves to protect them. They may be
+brought out of the piece in bushel baskets, and be piled on the wagon as
+high as a hay stack, being kept in place by a stout canvas sheet tied
+closely down. In the markets of Boston, in the fall of the year, they
+are usually sold at a price agreed upon by the hundred head; this will
+vary not only with the size and quality of the cabbage, but with the
+season, the crop, and the quality in market on that particular day.
+Within a few years I have known the range of price for the Stone Mason
+or Fottler cabbage, equal in size and quality, to be from $3 to $17 per
+hundred; for the Marblehead Mammoth from $6 to $25 per hundred. Cabbages
+brought to market in the spring are usually sold by weight or by the
+barrel, at from $1 to $4 per hundred pounds.
+
+The earliest cabbages carried to market sometimes bring extraordinary
+prices; and this has created a keen competition among market gardeners,
+each striving to produce the earliest, a difference of a week in
+marketing oftentimes making a difference of one half in the profits of
+the crop. Capt. Wyman, who controlled the Early Wyman cabbage for
+several years, sold some seasons thirty thousand heads if my memory
+serves me, at pretty much his own price. As a rule, it is the very early
+and the very late cabbages that sell most profitably. Should the market
+for very late cabbages prove a poor one, the farmer is not compelled to
+sell them, no matter at what sacrifice, as would be the case a month
+earlier; he can pit them, and so keep them over to the early spring
+market which is almost always a profitable one. In marketing in spring
+it should be the aim to make sale before the crops of spring greens
+become plenty, as these replace the cabbage on many tables. By starting
+cabbage in hot beds a crop of celery or squashes may follow them the
+same season.
+
+
+
+
+KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER.
+
+
+In the comparatively mild climate of England, where there are but few
+days in the winter months that the ground remains frozen to any depth,
+the hardy cabbage grows all seasons of the year, and turnips left during
+winter standing in the ground are fed to sheep by yarding them over the
+different portions of the field. With the same impunity, in the southern
+portion of our own country, the cabbages are left unprotected during the
+winter months; and, in the warmer portions of the South they are
+principally a winter crop. As we advance farther North, we find that the
+degree of protection needed is afforded by running the plough along each
+side of the rows, turning the earth against them, and dropping a little
+litter on top of the heads. As we advance still farther northward, we
+find sufficient protection given by but little more than a rough roof of
+boards thrown over the heads, after removing the cabbages to a
+sheltered spot and setting them in the ground as near together as they
+will stand without being in contact, with the tops of the heads just
+level with the surface.
+
+In the latitude of central New England, cabbages are not secure from
+injury from frost with less than a foot of earth thrown over the heads.
+In mild winters a covering of half that depth will be sufficient; but as
+we have no prophets to foretell our mild winters, a foot of earth is
+safer than six inches. Where eel-grass can be procured along the sea
+coast, or there is straw or coarse hay to spare, the better plan is to
+cover with about six inches of earth, and when this is frozen
+sufficiently hard to bear a man's weight (which is usually about
+Thanksgiving time), to scatter over it the eel-grass, forest leaves,
+straw, or coarse hay, to the depth of another six inches. Eel-grass,
+which grows on the sandy flats under the ocean along the coast, is
+preferred to any other covering as it lays light and keeps in dead air
+which is a non-conductor of heat. Forest leaves are next in value; but
+snow and water are apt to get among these and freezing solid destroy
+most of their protecting value. When I use forest leaves, I cover them
+with coarse hay, and add branches of trees to prevent its being blown
+away. In keeping cabbages through the winter, three general facts should
+be borne in mind, viz.: that repeated freezing and thawing will cause
+them to rot; that excessive moisture or warmth will also cause rot;
+while a dry air, such as is found in most cellars, will abstract
+moisture from the leaves, injure the flavor of the cabbage, and cause
+some of the heads to wilt, and the harder heads to waste. In the Middle
+States we have mostly to fear the wet of winter, and the plan for
+keeping for that section should, therefore, have particularly in view
+protection from moisture, while in the Northern States we have to fear
+the cold of winter, and, consequently, our plan must there have
+specially in view protection from cold.
+
+When storing for winter, select a dry day, if possible, sufficiently
+long after rainy weather to have the leaves free of water,--otherwise
+they will spout it on to you, and make you the wettest and muddiest
+scarecrow ever seen off a farm,--then strip all the outer leaves from
+the head but the two last rows, which are needed to protect it. This may
+be readily done by drawing in these two rows toward the head with the
+left hand, while a blow is struck against the remaining leaves with the
+fist of the right hand. Next pull up the cabbages, which, if they are of
+the largest varieties, may be expeditiously done by a potato hoe. If
+they are not intended for seed purposes, stand the heads down and stumps
+up until the earth on the roots is somewhat dry, when it can be mostly
+removed by sharp blows against the stump given with a stout stick. In
+loading do not bruise the heads. Select the place for keeping them in a
+dry, level location, and, if in the North, a southern exposure, where no
+water can stand and there can be no wash. To make the pit, run the
+plough along from two to four furrows, and throw out the soil with the
+shovel to the requisite depth, which may be from six to ten inches; now,
+if the design is to roof over the pit, the cabbages may be put in as
+thickly as they will stand; if the heads are solid they may be either
+head up or stump up, and two layers deep; but if the heads are soft,
+then heads up and one deep, and not crowded very close, that they may
+have room to make heads during the winter. Having excavated an area
+twelve by six feet, set a couple of posts in the ground midway at each
+end, projecting about five feet above the surface; connect the two by a
+joist secured firmly to the top of each, and against this, extending to
+the ground just outside the pit, lay slabs, boards or poles, and cover
+the roof that will be thus formed with six inches of straw or old hay,
+and, if in the North, throw six or eight inches of earth over this.
+Leave one end open for entrance and to air the pit, closing the other
+end with straw or hay. In the North close both ends, opening one of them
+occasionally in mild weather.
+
+When cabbages are pitted on a large scale this system of roofing is too
+costly and too cumbersome. A few thousand may be kept in a cool root
+cellar, by putting one layer heads down, and standing another layer
+heads up between these. Within a few years farmers in the vicinity of
+Lowell, Mass., have preserved their cabbages over winter, on a large
+scale, by a new method, with results that have been very satisfactory.
+They cut off that portion of the stump which contains the root; strip
+off most of the outer leaves, and then pile the cabbages in piles, six
+or eight feet high, in double rows, with boards to keep them apart, in
+cool cellars, which are built half out of ground. The temperature of
+these, by the judicious opening and closing of windows, is kept as
+nearly as possibly at the freezing point. The common practice in the
+North, when many thousands are to be stored for winter and spring sales,
+is to select a southern exposure having the protection of a fence or
+wall, if practicable, and, turning furrows with the plough, throw out
+the earth with shovels, to the depth of about six inches; the cabbages,
+stripped as before described, are then stored closely together, and
+straw or coarse hay is thrown over them to the depth of a foot or
+eighteen inches. Protected thus they are accessible for market at any
+time during the winter. If the design is to keep them over till spring,
+the covering may be first six inches of earth, to be followed, as cold
+increases, with six inches of straw, litter, or eel-grass. This latter
+is my own practice, with the addition of leaving a ridge of earth
+between every three or four rows, to act as a support and keep the
+cabbages from falling over. I am, also, careful to bring the cabbages to
+the pit as soon as pulled, with the earth among the roots as little
+disturbed as possible; and, should the roots appear to be dry, to throw
+a little earth over them after the cabbages are set in the trench. The
+few loose leaves remaining will prevent the earth from sifting down
+between the heads, and the air chambers thus made answer a capital
+purpose in keeping out the cold, as air is one of the best
+non-conductors of heat. It is said that muck-soil, when well drained, is
+an excellent one to bury cabbage in, as its antiseptic properties
+preserve them from decay. If the object is to preserve the cabbage for
+market purposes only, the heads may be buried in the same position in
+which they grew, or they may be inverted, the stump having no value in
+itself; but if for seed purposes, they must be buried head up, as,
+whatever injures the stump, spoils the whole cabbage for that object. I
+store between ten and fifty thousand heads annually to raise seed from,
+and carry them through till planting time with a degree of success
+varying from a loss, for seed purposes, of from one-half to thirty-three
+per cent. of the number buried; but, if handled early in spring, many
+that would be worthless for seed purposes, could be profitably marketed.
+A few years since, I buried a lot with a depth varying from one to four
+feet, and found, on uncovering them in the spring, that all had kept,
+and apparently equally well. In the winter of 1868, excessively cold
+weather came very early and unexpectedly, before my cabbage plot had
+received its full covering of litter. The consequence was, the frost
+penetrated so deep that it froze through the heads into the stumps, and,
+when spring came, a large portion of them came out spoiled for seed
+purposes, though most of them sold readily in the market. A cabbage is
+rendered worthless for seed when the frost strikes through the stump
+where it joins the head; and though, to the unpractised eye, all may
+appear right, yet, if the heart of the stump has a water-soaked
+appearance on being cut into, it will almost uniformly decay just below
+the head in the course of a few weeks after having been planted out. If
+there is a probability that the stumps have been frozen through, examine
+the plot early, and, if it proves so, sell the cabbages for eating
+purposes, no matter how sound and handsome the heads look; if you delay
+until time for planting out the cabbage for seed, meanwhile much waste
+will occur. I once lost heavily in Marblehead Mammoth cabbage by having
+them buried on a hill-side with a gentle slope. In the course of the
+winter they fell over on their sides, which let down the soil from
+above, and, closing the air-chambers between them, brought the huge
+heads into a mass, and the result was, a large proportion of them rotted
+badly. At another time, I lost a whole plot by burying them in soil
+between ledges of rock, which kept the ground very wet when spring
+opened; the consequence was, every cabbage rotted. If the heads are
+frozen more than two or three leaves deep before they are pitted they
+will not come out so handsome in the spring; but cabbages are very
+hardy, and they readily rally from a little freezing, either in the open
+ground or after they are buried, though it is best, when they are frozen
+in the open ground, to let them remain there until the frost comes out
+before removing them, if it can be done without too much risk of
+freezing still deeper, as they handle better then, for, being tougher,
+the leaves are not so easily broken. If the soil is frozen to any depth
+before the cabbages are removed, the roots will be likely to be injured
+in the pulling, a matter of no consequence if the cabbages are intended
+for market, but of some importance if they are for seed raising. Large
+cabbages are more easily pulled by giving them a little twist; if for
+seed purposes, this should be avoided, as it injures the stump. A small
+lot, that are to be used within a month, can be kept hung up by the
+stump in the cellar of a dwelling-house; they will keep in this way
+until spring; but the outer leaves will dry and turn yellow, the heads
+shrink some in size, and be apt to lose in quality. Some practise
+putting clean chopped straw in the bottom of a box or barrel, wetting
+it, and covering with heads trimmed ready for cooking, adding again wet
+straw and a layer of heads, so alternating until the barrel or box is
+filled, after which it is headed up and kept in a cool place, at, or a
+little below, the freezing point. No doubt this is an excellent way to
+preserve a small lot, as it has the two essentials to success, keeping
+them cool and moist.
+
+Instead of burying them in an upright position, after a deep furrow has
+been made the cabbages are sometimes laid on their sides two deep, with
+their roots at the bottom of the furrow, and covered with earth in this
+position. Where the winter climate is so mild that a shallow covering
+will be sufficient protection, this method saves much labor.
+
+
+
+
+HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER.
+
+
+When a piece of drumhead has been planted very late (sometimes they are
+planted on ground broken up after a crop of hay has been taken from it
+the same season), there will be a per cent. of the plants when the
+growing season is over that have not headed. With care almost all of
+these can be made to head during the winter. A few years ago I selected
+my seed heads from a large piece and then sold the first "pick" of what
+remained at ten cents a head, the second at eight cents, and so down
+until all were taken for which purchasers were willing to give one cent
+each. Of course, after such a thorough selling out as this, there was
+not much in the shape of a head left. I now had what remained pulled up
+and carted away, doubtful whether to feed them to the cows or to set
+them out to head up during winter. As they were very healthy plants in
+the full vigor of growth, having rudimentary heads just gathering in, I
+determined to set them out. I had a pit dug deep enough to bring the
+tops of the heads, when the plants were stood upright as they grew, just
+above the surface of the ground; I then stood the cabbages in without
+breaking off any of the leaves, keeping the roots well covered with
+earth, having the plants far enough apart not to crowd each other very
+much, though so near as to press somewhat together the two outer
+circles of leaves. They were allowed to remain in this condition until
+it was cold enough to freeze the ground an inch in thickness, when a
+covering of coarse hay was thrown over them a couple of inches thick,
+and, as the cold increased in intensity, this covering was increased to
+ten or twelve inches in thickness, the additions being made at two or
+three intervals. In the spring I uncovered the lot, and found that
+nearly every plant had headed up. I sold the heads for four cents a
+pound; and these refuse cabbages averaged me about ten cents a head,
+which was the price my best heads brought me in the fall. I have seen
+thousands of cabbages in one lot, the refuse of several acres that had
+been planted on sod land broken up the same season a crop of hay had
+been taken from it, made to head by this course, and sold in the spring
+for $1.30 per barrel. When there is a large lot of such cabbages the
+most economical way to plant them will be in furrows made by the plough.
+Most of the bedding used in covering them, if it be as coarse as it
+ought to be to admit as much air as possible while it should not mat
+down on the cabbages, will, with care in drying, be again available for
+covering another season, or remain suitable for bedding purposes. These
+"winter-headed" cabbages, as they are called in the market, are not so
+solid and have more shrinkage to them than those headed in the open
+ground; hence they will not bear transportation as well, neither will
+they keep as long when exposed to the air. The effect of wintering
+cabbage by burying in the soil is to make them exceedingly tender for
+table use.
+
+
+
+
+VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.
+
+
+If a piece of land is planted with seed grown from two heads of cabbage
+the product will bear a striking resemblance to the two parent cabbages,
+with a third variety which will combine the characteristics of these
+two, yet the resemblance will be somewhat modified at times by a little
+more manure, a little higher culture, a little better location, and the
+addition of an individuality that particular vegetables occasionally
+take upon themselves which we designate by the word "sport." The
+"sports" when they occur are fixed and perpetuated with remarkable
+readiness in the cabbage family, as is proved by a great number of
+varieties in cultivation, which are the numerous progeny of one
+ancestor. The catalogues of the English and French seedsmen contain long
+lists of varieties, many of which (and this is especially true of the
+early kinds) are either the same variety under a different name or are
+different "strains" of the same variety produced by the careful
+selections of prominent market gardeners through a series of years.
+
+Every season I experiment with foreign and American varieties of cabbage
+to learn the characteristics of the different kinds, their comparative
+earliness, size, shape, and hardness of head, length of stump, and such
+other facts as would prove of value to market gardeners. There is one
+fact that every careful experimenter soon learns, that one season will
+not teach all that can be known relative to a variety, and that a number
+of specimens of each kind must be raised to enable one to make a fair
+comparison. It is amusing to read the dicta which appear in the
+agricultural press from those who have made but a single experiment with
+some vegetable; they proclaim more after a single trial than a cautious
+experimenter would dare to declare after years spent in careful
+observation. The year 1869 I raised over sixty varieties of cabbage,
+importing nearly complete suites of those advertised by the leading
+English and French seed houses, and collecting the principal kinds
+raised in this country. In the year 1888, I grew eighty-five different
+varieties and strains of cabbages and cauliflowers. I do not propose
+describing all these in this treatise or their comparative merits; of
+some of them I have yet something to learn, but I will endeavor to
+introduce with my description such notes as I think will prove of value
+to my fellow farmers and market gardeners.
+
+I will here say in general of the class of early cabbages, that most of
+them have elongated heads between ovoid and conical in form. They appear
+to lack in this country the sweetness and tenderness that characterize
+some varieties of our drumhead, and, consequently, in the North when the
+drumhead enters the market there is but a limited call for them.
+
+It may be well here to note a fundamental distinction between the
+drumhead cabbage of England and those of this country. In England the
+drumhead class are almost wholly raised to feed to stock. I venture the
+conjecture that owing in part, or principally, to the fact European
+gardeners have never had the motive, and, consequently, have never
+developed the full capacity of the drumhead as exampled by the fine
+varieties raised in this country. The securing of sorts reliable for
+heading being with them a matter of secondary consideration, seed is
+raised from stumps or any refuse heads that may be standing when spring
+comes round. For this reason English drumhead cabbage seed is better
+suited to raise a mass of leaves than heads, and always disappoints our
+American farmers who buy it because it is cheap with the expectation of
+raising cabbage for market. English-grown drumhead cabbage seed is
+utterly worthless for use in this country except to raise greens or
+collards.
+
+The following are foreign varieties that are accepted in this country as
+standards, and for years have been more or less extensively cultivated:
+EARLY YORK, EARLY OXHEART, EARLY WINNIGSTADT, RED DUTCH, RED DRUMHEAD.
+In my experience as a seed dealer, the Sugar Loaf and Oxheart are losing
+ground in the farming community, the Early Jersey Wakefield having, to a
+large extent, replaced them.
+
+~Early York.~ Heads nearly ovoid, rather soft, with few waste leaves
+surrounding them, which are of a bright green color. Reliable for
+heading. Stump rather short. Plant two feet by eighteen inches. This
+cabbage has been cultivated in England over a hundred years. LITTLE
+PIXIE with me is earlier than Early York, as reliable for heading,
+heads much harder, and is of better flavor; the heads do not grow quite
+as large.
+
+~Early Oxheart.~ Heads nearly egg-shaped, small, hard, few waste leaves,
+stumps short. A little later than Early York. Have the rows two feet
+apart, and the plants eighteen inches apart in the row.
+
+~Early Winnigstadt.~ (A German cabbage.) Heads nearly conical in shape,
+having usually a twist of leaf at the top; larger than Oxheart, are
+harder than any of the early oblong heading cabbages; stumps middling
+short. Matures about ten days later than Early York. The Winnigstadt is
+remarkably reliable for heading, being not excelled in this respect when
+the seed has been raised with care, by any cabbage grown. It is a
+capital sort for early market outside our large cities, where the very
+early kinds are not so eagerly craved. It is so reliable for heading,
+that it will often make fine heads where other sorts fail; and I would
+advise all who have not succeeded in their efforts to grow cabbage, to
+try this before giving up their attempts. It is raised by some for
+winter use, and where the drumheads are not so successfully raised, I
+would advise my farmer friends to try the Winnigstadt, as the heads are
+so hard that they keep without much waste. Have rows two feet apart, and
+plant twenty inches to two feet apart in the rows.
+
+~Red Dutch.~ Heads nearly conical, medium sized, hard, of a very deep
+red; outer leaves numerous, and not so red as the head, being somewhat
+mixed with green; stump rather long. This cabbage is usually planted too
+late; it requires nearly the whole season to mature. It is used for
+pickling, or cut up fine as a salad, served with vinegar and pepper.
+This is a very tender cabbage, and, were it not for its color, would be
+an excellent sort to boil; to those who have a mind to eat it with their
+eyes shut, this objection will not apply.
+
+~Red Drumhead.~ Like the preceding, with the exception that the heads
+grow round, or nearly so, are harder, and of double the size. It is very
+difficult to raise seed from this cabbage in this country. I am
+acquainted with five trials, made in as many different years, two of
+which I made myself, and all were nearly utter failures, the yield, when
+the hardest heads were selected, being at about the rate of two great
+spoonfuls of seed from every twenty cabbages. French seed-growers are
+more successful, otherwise this seed would have to sell at a far higher
+figure in the market than any other sort.
+
+~The Little Pixie.~ has much to recommend it, in earliness, quality,
+reliability for heading, and hardness of the head; earlier than Early
+York, though somewhat smaller.
+
+Among those that deserve to be heartily welcomed and grow in favor, are
+the EARLY ULM SAVOY (for engraving and description of which see
+under head of Savoy), and the ST. DENNIS DRUMHEAD, a late,
+short-stumped sort, setting a large, round, very solid head, as large,
+but harder, than Premium Flat Dutch. The leaves are of a bluish-green,
+and thicker than those of most varieties of drumhead. Our brethren in
+Canada think highly of this cabbage, and if we want to try a new
+drumhead, I will speak a good word for this one.
+
+~Early Schweinfurt~, or ~Schweinfurt Quintal~, is an excellent early
+drumhead for family use; the heads range in size from ten to eighteen
+inches in diameter, varying with the conditions of cultivation more than
+any other cabbage I am acquainted with. They are flattish round, weigh
+from three to nine pounds when well grown, are very symmetrical in
+shape, standing apart from the surrounding leaves. They are not solid,
+though they have the finished appearance that solidity gives; they are
+remarkably tender, as though blanched, and of very fine flavor. It is
+among the earliest of drumheads, maturing at about the same time as the
+Early Winnigstadt. As an early drumhead for the family garden, it has no
+superior; and where the market is near, and does not insist that a
+cabbage head must be hard to be good, it has proved a very profitable
+market sort.
+
+The following are either already standard American varieties of cabbage,
+or such as are likely soon to become so; very possibly there are two or
+three other varieties or strains that deserve to be included in the
+list. I give all that have proved to be first class in my locality:
+EARLY WAKEFIELD, EARLY WYMAN, EARLY SUMMER, ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING,
+SUCCESSION, WARREN, VANDERGAW, PEERLESS, NEWARK, FLAT DUTCH, PREMIUM
+FLAT DUTCH, STONE MASON, LARGE LATE DRUMHEAD, MARBLEHEAD MAMMOTH
+DRUMHEAD, AMERICAN GREEN GLAZED, FOTTLER'S DRUMHEAD, BERGEN DRUMHEAD,
+DRUMHEAD SAVOY, and AMERICAN GREEN GLOBE SAVOY. All of these varieties,
+as I have previously stated, are but improvements of foreign kinds; but
+they are so far improved through years of careful selection and
+cultivation, that, as a rule, they appear quite distinct from the
+originals when grown side by side with them, and this distinction is
+more or less recognized, in both English and American catalogues, by the
+adjective "American" or "English" being added after varieties bearing
+the same name.
+
+~Early Wakefield~, sometimes called ~Early Jersey Wakefield.~ Heads
+mostly nearly conical in shape but sometimes nearly round, of good size
+for early, very reliable for heading; stumps short. A very popular early
+cabbage in the markets of Boston and New York. Plant two and a half feet
+by two feet. There are two strains of this cabbage, one a little later
+and larger than the other.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Early Wyman.~ This cabbage is named after Capt. Wyman, of Cambridge,
+the originator. Like Early Wakefield the heads are usually somewhat
+conical, but sometimes nearly round; in structure they are compact. In
+earliness it ranks about with the Early Wakefield, and making heads of
+double the size, it has a high value as an early cabbage. Capt. Wyman
+had entire control of this cabbage until within the past few years, and,
+consequently, has held Boston Market in his own hands, to the chagrin of
+his fellow market gardeners, raising some seasons as many as thirty
+thousand heads. Have the rows from two to two and a half feet apart, and
+the plants from twenty to twenty-four inches apart in the row. Crane's
+Early is a cross between the Wyman and Wakefield, intermediate in size
+and earliness.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Premium Flat Dutch.~ Large, late variety; heads either round or flat,
+on the top (varying with different strains); rather hard; color bluish
+green; leaves around heads rather numerous; towards the close of the
+season, the edge of some of the exterior leaves and the top of the heads
+assume a purple cast. The edges of the exterior leaves, and of the two
+or three that make the outside of the head, are quite ruffled, so that
+when grown side by side with Stone Mason, this distinction between the
+habit of growth of the two varieties is noticeable at quite a distance.
+Stumps short; reliable for heading. Have the rows three feet apart, and
+the plants from two and a half to three feet apart in the rows. This
+cabbage is very widely cultivated, and, in many respects, is an
+excellent sort to raise for late marketing. There are several strains of
+it catalogued by different seedsmen under various names, such as Sure
+Head, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Stone Mason.~ An improvement on the Mason, which cabbage was selected
+by Mr. John Mason of Marblehead, from a number of varieties of cabbage
+that came from a lot of seed purchased and planted as Savoys. Mr. John
+Stone afterwards improved upon the Mason cabbage, by increasing the size
+of the heads. Different growers differ in their standard of a Stone
+Mason cabbage, in earliness and lateness, and in the size, form, and
+hardness of the head. But all these varieties agree in the
+characteristics of being very reliable for heading, in having heads
+which are large, very hard, very tender, rich and sweet; short stumps,
+and few waste leaves. The color of the leaves varies from a bluish green
+to a pea-green, and the structure from nearly smooth to much blistered.
+In their color and blistering some specimens have almost a Savoy cast.
+The heads of the best varieties of Stone Mason range in weight from six
+to twenty-five pounds, the difference turning mostly on soil, manure,
+and cultivation.
+
+The Stone Mason is an earlier cabbage than Premium Flat Dutch, has fewer
+waste leaves, and side by side, under high cultivation, grows to an
+equal or larger size, while it makes heads that are decidedly harder and
+sweeter. These cabbages are equally reliable for heading. I am inclined
+to the opinion that under poor cultivation the Premium Flat Dutch will
+do somewhat better than the Stone Mason.
+
+Until the introduction of Fottler's Drumhead it was the standard
+drumhead cabbage in the markets of Boston and other large cities of the
+North. Have the rows three feet apart, and the plants from two to three
+feet apart in the row.
+
+~Large Late Drumhead.~ Heads large, round, sometimes flattened at the
+top, close and firm; loose leaves numerous; stems short; reliable for
+heading, hardy, and a good keeper. The name "Large Late Drumhead"
+includes varieties raised by several seedsmen in this country, all of
+which resemble each other in the above characteristics, and differ in
+but minor points. Have rows three feet apart, and plants from two and a
+half to three feet apart in the row.
+
+~Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.~ This is the largest of the cabbage
+family, having sometimes been grown to weigh over ninety pounds to the
+plant. It originated in Marblehead, Mass., being produced by Mr. Alley,
+probably from the Mason, by years of high cultivation and careful
+selection of seed stock. I introduced this cabbage and the Stone Mason
+to the general public many years ago, and it has been pretty thoroughly
+disseminated throughout the United States. Heads varying in shape
+between hemispherical and spherical, with but few waste leaves
+surrounding them; size very large, varying from fifteen to twenty inches
+in diameter, and, in some specimens, they have grown to the
+extraordinary dimensions of twenty-four inches. In good soil, and with
+the highest culture, this variety has attained an average weight of
+thirty pounds by the acre. Quality, when well grown, remarkably sweet
+and tender, as would be inferred from the rapidity of its growth.
+Cultivate in rows four feet apart, and allow four feet between the
+plants in the rows. Sixty tons of this variety have been raised from a
+single acre.
+
+~American Green Glazed.~ Heads loose, though rather large, with a great
+body of waste leaves surrounding them; quality poor; late; stump long.
+This cabbage was readily distinguished among all the varieties in my
+experimental plot by the deep, rich green of the leaves, with their
+bright lustre as though varnished. It is grown somewhat extensively in
+the South, as it is believed not to be so liable to injury from insects
+as other varieties. Plant two and a half feet apart each way. I would
+advise my Southern friends to try the merits of other kinds before
+adopting this poor affair. I know, through my correspondence, that the
+Mammoth has done well as far South as Louisiana and Cuba, and the
+Fottler, in many sections of the South, has given great satisfaction.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Fottler's Early Drumhead.~ Several years ago a Boston seedsman imported
+a lot of cabbage seed from Europe, under the name of Early Brunswick
+Short Stemmed. It proved to be a large heading and very early Drumhead.
+The heads were from eight to eighteen inches in diameter nearly flat,
+hard, sweet, and tender in quality; few waste leaves; stump short. In
+earliness it was about a fortnight ahead of the Stone Mason. It was so
+much liked by the market gardeners that the next season he ordered a
+larger quantity; but the second importation, though ordered and sent
+under the same name, proved to be a different and inferior kind, and the
+same result followed one or two other importations. The two gardeners
+who received seed of the first importation brought to market a fine,
+large Drumhead, ten days or a fortnight ahead of their fellows. The seed
+of the true stock was eagerly bought up by the Boston market gardeners,
+most of it at _five dollars an ounce_. After an extensive trial on a
+large scale by the market farmers around Boston, and by farmers in
+various parts of the United States, Fottler's Cabbage has given great
+satisfaction, and become a universal favorite, and when once known it,
+and especially the improved strain of it, known as Deep Head, is fast
+replacing some of the old varieties of Drumhead. Very reliable for
+heading.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Vandergaw Cabbage.~ This new Long Island Cabbage must be classed as A
+No. 1 for the midsummer and late market. It is as sure to head as the
+Succession, and has some excellent characteristics in common.
+
+It makes large, green heads, hard, tender, and crisp. This is an
+acquisition.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~The Warren Cabbage.~ This first-class cabbage is closely allied to, but
+an improvement on, the old Mason Cabbage of twenty-five years ago. It
+makes a head deep, round, and very hard, the outer leaves wrapping it
+over very handsomely. In reliability for heading no cabbage surpasses
+it; a field of them when in their prime is as pretty a sight as a
+cabbage man would wish to see. It comes in as early as some strains of
+Fottler, and a little earlier than others. A capital sort to succeed the
+Early Summer. The heads being very thick through, and nearly round, make
+it an excellent sort to carry through the winter, as it "peels" well, as
+cabbage-growers say. Ten inches in diameter, in size it is just about
+right for profitable marketing. A capital sort, exceedingly popular
+among market-man in this vicinity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Early Bleichfeld Cabbage.~ I find the Bleichfeld to be among the
+earliest of the large, hard-heading Drumheads, maturing earlier than the
+Fottler's Brunswick. The heads are large, very solid, tender when
+cooked, and of excellent flavor. The color is a lighter green than most
+varieties and it is as reliable for heading as any cabbage I have ever
+grown. The above engraving I have had made from a photograph of a
+specimen grown on my grounds.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Danish Drumhead Cabbage.~ In 1879, Mr. Edward Abelgoord wrote me from
+Canada, that he raised a large Drumhead Cabbage, the seed of which was
+brought from Denmark, which was the best kind of cabbage that he had
+seen in that latitude (46°), being very valuable for the extreme North.
+It was earlier than Fottler's Drumhead, and made large, flat heads, of
+excellent flavor, and was so reliable for heading. I raised a field of
+this new cabbage, and it proved a large, flat, early Drumhead, very
+reliable for heading.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~The Reynolds Early Cabbage.~ In the year 1875, Mr. Franklin Reynolds,
+of this town, crossed the Cannon-Ball Cabbage on the Schweinfurt
+Quintal, by carefully transferring the pollen of the former on the
+latter, the stamens having first been removed, and immediately tying
+muslin around the impregnated blossoms to keep away all insects. The
+results were a few ripe seeds. These were carefully saved and planted
+the next season, when the product showed the characteristics of the two
+parents. The best heads were selected from the lot, and, from these,
+seeds were raised. Several selections were made of the choicest heads
+from year to year; and I now have the pleasure of introducing the
+results, _a new cabbage which combines the good qualities of both its
+parents_.
+
+The flavor of this new cabbage is rich, tender, and sweet, being
+superior to the general Drumhead class, making it a very superior
+variety for family use, and also for marketing when there is not a long
+transportation. None of the scores of varieties I have ever grown has a
+shorter stump than this; the heads appear to rest directly on the
+ground, and no one is surer to head.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~All-Seasons Cabbage.~ This new cabbage is the result of a cross made by
+a Long Island gardener between the Flat Dutch and a variety of Drumhead.
+The result is a remarkably large, early Drumhead, that matures close in
+time with the Early Summer, while it is from one third to one half
+larger. It is an excellent variety either as an early or late sort; the
+roundness of the head, leaving a thick, solid cabbage, should it become
+necessary, as is often the case with those marketed in the spring, to
+peel off the outer layer of leaves. Heads large in size, solid and
+tender, and rich flavored when cooked. It has already, in three years,
+verified the prophecy I made when sending it out, and become a standard
+variety in some localities.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage.~ I am not acquainted with any variety
+of cabbage (I believe I have raised about all the native and foreign
+varieties that have been catalogued) that makes so hard a head as does
+the "Hard-heading" when fully matured. Neither am I acquainted with any
+variety that is so late a keeper as is this; the German gardener, from
+whom I obtained it, said that it gave him, and his friends who had it,
+complete control of the Chicago market for about a fortnight after all
+other varieties had "played out." My own experience with it tends to
+confirm this statement, for under the same conditions it kept decidedly
+later than all my other varieties, was greener in color, and when
+planted out they were so late to push seed-shoots that I almost
+despaired of getting a crop of seed. I find, also, that they are much
+less inclined to burst than any of the hard-heading varieties. Heads
+grow to a good market size, are more globular than Flat Dutch; and, as
+might be presumed, of great weight in proportion to their size. The
+color is a peculiar green, rather more of an olive than most kinds of
+cabbage. About a fortnight later than Flat Dutch. For late fall, winter,
+and spring sales plant 3 by 3 the first of June.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Early Deep-Head Cabbage.~ This is a valuable improvement on the Fottler
+made by years of careful selection and high cultivation by Mr. Alley of
+Marblehead, a famous cabbage grower, who, as the name indicates, has
+produced a deeper, rounder heading variety than the original Fottler,
+thus making what that was not, an excellent sort for winter and spring
+marketing. It has all the excellent traits of its parent in reliability
+for making large, handsome heads.
+
+~Bergen Drumhead.~ Heads round, rather flat on the top, solid; leaves
+stout, thick, and rather numerous; stump short. With me, under same
+cultivation, it is later than Stone Mason. It is tender and of good
+flavor. A popular sort in many sections, particularly in the markets of
+New York City. Have the plants three feet apart each way.
+
+
+
+
+SAVOY CABBAGES.
+
+
+The Savoys are the tenderest and richest-flavored of cabbages, though
+not always as sweet as a well-grown Stone Mason; nor is a Savoy grown on
+poor soil, or one that has been pinched by drouth, as tender as a Stone
+Mason that has been grown under favoring circumstances; yet it remains,
+as a rule, that the Savoy surpasses all other cabbages in tenderness,
+and in a rich, marrow-like flavor. The Savoys are also the hardiest of
+the cabbage tribe, enduring in the open field a temperature within
+sixteen degrees of zero without serious injury; and if the heads are not
+very hard they will continue to withstand repeated changes from freezing
+to thawing for a couple of months, as far north as the latitude of
+Boston. A degree of freezing improves them, and it is common in that
+latitude to let such as are intended for early winter use, in the
+family, remain standing in the open ground where they grew, cutting the
+heads as they are wanted.
+
+As a rule Savoys neither head as readily (the "Improved American Savoy"
+being an exception) nor do the heads grow as large as the Drumhead
+varieties; indeed, most of the kinds in cultivation are so unreliable in
+these respects as to be utterly worthless for market purposes, and
+nearly so for the kitchen garden.
+
+~The Drumhead Savoy.~ This, as the name implies, is the result of a
+cross between a Savoy and a Drumhead cabbage, partaking of the
+characteristics of each. Many of the cabbages sold in the market as
+Savoy are really this variety. One variety in my experimental garden,
+which I received as TOUR'S SAVOY (evidently a Drumhead variety
+of the Savoy), proved to be much like Early Schweinfurt in earliness and
+style of heading; the heads were very large, but quite loose in
+structure; I should think it would prove valuable for family use.
+
+It is a fact that does not appear to be generally known that we have
+among the Savoys some remarkably early sorts which rank with the
+earliest varieties of cabbage grown. Pancalier and Early Ulm Savoy are
+earlier than that old standard of earliness, Early York; Pancalier being
+somewhat earlier than Ulm.
+
+~Pancalier~ is characterized by very coarsely blistered leaves of the
+darkest-green color; the heads usually gather together, being the only
+exception I know of to the rule that cabbage heads are made up of
+overlapping leaves, wrapped closely together. It has a short stump, and
+with high cultivation is reliable for heading. The leaves nearest the
+head, though not forming a part of it, are quite tender, and may be
+cooked with the head. Plant fifteen by thirty inches.
+
+~Early Ulm Savoy~ is a few days later than Pancalier, and makes a larger
+head; the leaves are of a lighter green and not so coarsely blistered;
+stump short; head round; very reliable for heading. It has a capital
+characteristic in not being so liable as most varieties to burst the
+head and push the seed shoot immediately after the head is matured. For
+first early, I know no cabbages so desirable as these for the kitchen
+garden.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The ~Early Dwarf Savoy~ is a desirable variety of second early. The
+heads are rather flat in shape, and grow to a fair size. Stumps short;
+reliable for heading.
+
+~Improved American Savoy.~ Everything considered, this is the Savoy,
+"par excellence," for the market garden. It is a true Savoy, the heads
+grow to a large size, from six to ten inches in diameter, varying, of
+course, with soil, manure, and cultivation. In shape the heads are
+mostly globular, occasionally oblong, having but few waste leaves, and
+grow very solid. Stump short. In reliability for heading it is
+unsurpassed by any other cabbage.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Golden Savoy~ differs from other varieties in the color of the head,
+which rises from the body of light green leaves, of a singular pale
+yellow color, as though blanched. The stumps are long, and the head
+rather small, a portion of these growing pointed. It is very late, not
+worth cultivating, except as a curiosity.
+
+~Norwegian Savoy.~ This is a singular half cabbage, half kale--at least,
+so it has proved under my cultivation. The leaves are long, narrow,
+tasselated, and somewhat blistered. The whole appearance is very
+singular and rather ornamental. I have tried this cabbage twice, but
+have never got beyond the possible promise of a head.
+
+~Victoria Savoy~, ~Russian Savoy~, and ~Cape Savoy~, tested in my
+experimental garden, did not prove desirable either for family use or
+for market purposes.
+
+~Feather Stemmed Savoy.~ This is a cross between the Savoy and Brussels
+sprouts, having the habit of growth of Brussels sprouts.
+
+
+
+
+OTHER VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.
+
+
+I will add notes on some other varieties which have been tested, from
+year to year, in my experimental plot. The results from tests of
+different strains of standard sorts, I have not thought it worth the
+while to record.
+
+~Cannon Ball.~ The heads are usually spherical, attaining to a diameter
+of from five to nine inches, with the surrounding leaves gathered rather
+closely around them; in hardness and relative weight it is excelled by
+but few varieties. Stump short. It delights in the highest cultivation
+possible. It is about a week later than Early York. In those markets
+where cabbages are sold by weight, it will pay to grow for market; it is
+a good cabbage for the family garden.
+
+~Early Cone~, of the Wakefield class, but with me not as early.
+
+~Garfield Pickling~, of late variety, of the conical class.
+
+~Cardinal Red.~ A large, late variety of red; but on my grounds, it is
+not equal to Red Drumhead.
+
+~Vilmorin's Early Flat Dutch.~ Not quite as large as Early Summer,
+though about as early and resembles it in shape of head.
+
+~Royal German Drumhead.~ Reliable for heading.
+
+~Large White Solid Magdeburg.~ A late Drumhead; short stumped; reliable
+for heading. Medium late.
+
+~Pak Choi.~ Evidently of the Kale class; no heads.
+
+~Chou de Burghlez~ and ~Chou de Milan~. These are coarse, loose, small
+heading varieties, allied to Kale. The latter is of the Savoy class.
+
+~Earliest Erfurt Blood-Red.~ Decidedly the earliest of the red cabbages.
+Very reliable for heading. A Drumhead; smaller than Red Drumhead. Very
+dark red.
+
+~Empress.~ Resembles Wyman in size and shape; but the heads are more
+pointed, and it makes head earlier. Heads well.
+
+~Schlitzer.~ This makes heads mostly shaped like the Winnigstadt, but a
+third larger. Its mottling of green and purple gives it a striking
+appearance. Early and very reliable for heading. Heads are not very
+hard; but, when cooked, are just about as tender and rich-flavored as
+the Savoy. Promises to be an excellent sort for family use.
+
+~Rothelburg.~ An early sure heading variety of the Drumhead class. Heads
+of medium size; resembling in shape Deep Head.
+
+~Sure Head.~ A strain of Flat Dutch. A late variety; heads deeper than
+Fottler, but with me not so reliable.
+
+~Dark Red Pointed.~ Resembles Winnigstadt in shape. About as late as Red
+Dutch, and not as desirable.
+
+~Bacalan Late.~ In shape resembles Winnigstadt. Grow a little wild.
+
+~Amack.~ A late variety. Heads generally nearly globular and quite hard.
+Very reliable for heading.
+
+~Bangholm.~ First of all. As early as the earliest, but very small,--not
+as large as Little Pixie.
+
+~Early Enfield Market.~
+
+~Tourleville.~ Heads resemble Wakefield in form; but, with me, are
+neither so large nor so large, and are more inclined to burst.
+
+~Danish Round Winter.~ A late variety; bearing deep, hard heads on long
+stumps.
+
+~Dwarf Danish.~ Late. Reliable to head; uneven in time of heading. Worth
+planting for market.
+
+~Danish Ball Drumhead.~ Heads not characterized by globular shape, but
+rather flattish. Irregular in length of stump.
+
+~Early Paris.~ Closely resembles Wakefield.
+
+~Very Early Etampes.~ Earlier than Wakefield. Shape partakes of both
+Oxheart and Wakefield.
+
+~Early Mohawk.~ Light green in color; a good header, but not so hard
+heading as Fottler. Appears to have a little of the Savoy cross in it.
+
+~Sure Head.~ A late variety of the Dutch class; reliable for heading;
+stump rather long.
+
+~Excelsior.~ A variety which is of the Fottler class, but makes smaller
+sized heads.
+
+~Louisville Drumhead.~ Of the flat Dutch type; nearly as early as Early
+Summer.
+
+~Early Advance.~ Of the Wakefield type. With me it is full as early as
+Wakefield, and considerably larger. Rather coarser in structure.
+
+~Market Garden.~ Of the Fottler class; very reliable for heading. Heads
+of good size, but rather coarser than the Deep Head.
+
+~Chase's Excelsior.~ A second early; much like Fottler; heads finely.
+
+~Bloomsdale Early Market.~ With me this is not as good a variety as
+Wakefield.
+
+~Berkshire Beauty.~ There appear to be fine possibilities in this
+cabbage, which have not yet been developed into uniformity.
+
+~Landredth's Extra Early.~ With me it does not prove as early as
+Wakefield, and does not head as well.
+
+~Bridgeport Late Drumhead.~ A large Drumhead; in size, between Stone
+Mason and Marblehead Mammoth. Reliable for heading, but does not head as
+hard as either of these varieties. Not inclined to burst.
+
+~Large French Oxheart~ closely resembles Early Oxheart, but grows to
+double the size, and is about ten days later; quality usually good.
+
+~Early Sugar Loaf.~ Heads shaped much like a loaf of sugar standing on
+its smaller end, resembling, as Burr well says, a head of Cos lettuce in
+its shape, and in the peculiar clasping of the leaves about the head.
+Heads rather hard, medium size; early, and tender. It is said not to
+stand the heat as well as most sorts.
+
+~Large Brunswick Short-Stemmed.~ (English seed.) Late, long-stumped,
+wild, plenty of leaves, almost no head; bears but a slight resemblance
+to Fottler's Drumhead.
+
+~Early Empress.~ Cabbages well; heads conical; early.
+
+~Robinson's Champion Ox Drumhead.~ Stump long; heads soft and not very
+large; wild.
+
+~English Winnigstadt.~ Long-stumped; irregular; not to be compared with
+French stock.
+
+~Blenheim.~ Early; heads mostly conical; of good size.
+
+~Shillings Queen.~ Early; heads conical; stumps long.
+
+~Carter's Superfine Early Dwarf.~ Surpasses in earliness and hardness of
+head. Closely allied to Little Pixie.
+
+~Enfield Market Improved.~ Most of the heads were flat; rather wild; not
+to be compared with Fottler.
+
+~Kemp's Incomparable.~ Long-headed; heads, when mature, do not appear to
+burst as readily as with most of the conical class.
+
+~Fielderkraut.~ Closely resembles Winnigstadt, with larger and longer
+heads and stump; requires more room than Winnigstadt.
+
+~Ramsay's Winter Drumhead.~ Closely resembles St. Dennis. I think it is
+the same.
+
+~Pomeranian Cabbage.~ Heads very long; quite large for a conical heading
+sort; very symmetrical and hard; color, yellowish-green. It handles
+well, and I should think would prove a good keeper. Medium early.
+
+~Alsacian Drumhead.~ Stump long; late; wild.
+
+~Marbled Bourgogne.~ Stumps long; heads small and hard; color, a mixture
+of green and red.
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGE GREENS.
+
+
+In the vicinity of our large cities, the market gardeners sow large
+areas very thickly with cabbage seed, early in the spring, to raise
+young plants to be sold as greens. The seed is sown broadcast at the
+rate of ten pounds and upwards to the acre. Seed of the Savoy cabbage is
+usually sown for this purpose, which may be sometimes purchased at a
+discount, owing to some defect in quality or purity, that would render
+it worthless for planting for a crop of heading cabbage.
+
+The young plants are cut off about even with the ground, when four or
+five inches high, washed, and carried to market in barrels or bushel
+boxes. The price varies with the state of the market, from 12 cents to
+$3 a barrel, the average price in Boston market being about a dollar.
+With the return of spring most families have some cabbage stumps
+remaining in the cellar; these can be planted about a foot apart in some
+handy spot along the edge of the garden, where they will not interfere
+with the general crop, setting them under ground from a quarter to a
+half their length, depending on the length of the stumps. They will soon
+be covered with green shoots, which should be used as greens before the
+blossom buds show themselves, as they then become too strong to be
+agreeable. If the spot is rich and has been well dug, the rapidity of
+growth is surprising; and if the shoots are frequently gathered, many
+nice messes of greens can be grown from a few stumps. Farmers in
+Northern Vermont tell me, that if they break off each seed shoot as soon
+as it shows itself, close home to the stump, nice little heads will push
+out on almost every stump. In England, where the winter climate is much
+milder than that of New England, it is the practice to raise a second
+crop of heads in this way. In my own neighborhood I have seen an acre
+from which a crop of drumhead cabbage had been cut off early in the
+season, every stump on which had from three to six hard heads, varying
+from the size of a hen's egg to that of a goose egg; but to get this
+second growth of heads, as much of the stump and leaves should be left
+as possible, when cutting out the original head. As in the cabbage
+districts of the North little or no use is made of this prolific after
+growth, it is worse than useless to suffer the ground to be exhausted by
+it; the stump should be pulled by the potato hoe as soon as the heads
+are marketed. When cabbages are planted out for seed, if, for any
+reason, the seed shoot fails to push out, and at times when it does push
+out, fine sprouts for greens will start below the head; when the stock
+of these sprouts becomes too tough for use, the large leaves may be
+stripped from them and cooked. I usually break off the tender tops of
+large sprouts, and then strip off the tenderest of the large leaves
+below.
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGE FOR STOCK.
+
+
+No vegetable raised in the temperate zone, Mangold Wurtzel alone
+excepted, will produce as much food to the acre, both for man and beast,
+as the cabbage. I have seen acres of the Marblehead Mammoth drumhead
+which would average thirty pounds to each cabbage, some specimens
+weighing over sixty pounds. The plants were four feet apart each way
+which would give a product of over forty tons to the acre; and I have
+tested a crop of Fottler's that yielded thirty tons of green food to the
+half acre. Other vegetables are at times raised for cattle feed, such as
+potatoes, carrots, ruta bagas, mangold wurtzels; a crop of potatoes
+yielding four hundred bushels to the acre at sixty pounds the bushel
+would weigh twelve tons; a crop of carrot yielding twelve hundred
+bushels to the acre would weigh thirty tons; ruta bagas sometimes yield
+thirty tons; and mangolds as high as seventy tons to the acre. I have
+set all these crops at a high capacity for fodder purposes; the same
+favoring conditions of soil, manure, and cultivation that would produce
+four hundred bushels of potatoes, twelve hundred bushels of carrots, and
+thirty-five tons of ruta baga turnips, would give a crop of forty tons
+of the largest variety of drumhead cabbage. If we now consider the
+comparative merits of these crops for nutriment, we find that the
+cabbage excels them all in this department also. The potatoes abound in
+starch, the mangold and carrot are largely composed of water, while the
+cabbage abounds in rich, nitrogeneous food.
+
+Prof. Stewart states that cabbage for milch cows has about the same
+feeding value as sweet corn ensilage, and makes the value not over $3.40
+per ton. Now it is admitted by general current that the value of common
+ensilage, which is inferior to that made from sweet corn, is, when
+compared with good English hay, as 3 to 1. This would make cabbages for
+milch cows worth not far from $7.00 per ton.
+
+When cabbage is kept for stock feed later than the first severe frost,
+if the quantity is large there is considerable waste even with the best
+of care. The loose leaves should be fed first, and the heads kept in a
+cool place, not more than two or three deep, at as near the freezing
+point as possible. If it has been necessary to cut the heads from the
+stumps, they may be piled, after the weather has set in decidedly cold,
+conveniently near the barn, and kept covered with a foot of straw or
+old litter. As long as a cabbage is kept frozen there is no waste to it;
+but if it be allowed to freeze and thaw two or three times, it will soon
+rot with an awful stench. I suspect that it is this rotten portion of
+the cabbage that often gives the bad flavor to milk. On the other hand,
+if it is kept in too warm and dry a place, the outer leaves will dry,
+turning yellow, and the whole head lose in weight,--if it be not very
+hard, shrivelling, and, if hard, shrinking. If they are kept in too warm
+and wet a place, the heads will decay fast, in a black, soft rot. The
+best way to preserve cabbages for stock into the winter, is to place
+them in trenches a few inches below the surface, and there cover with
+from a foot to two feet of coarse hay or straw, the depth depending on
+the coldness of the locality. When the ground has been frozen too hard
+to open with a plough or spade, I have kept them until spring by piling
+them loosely, hay-stack shape, about four feet high, letting the frost
+strike through them, and afterwards covering with a couple of feet of
+eel-grass; straw or coarse hay would doubtless do as well.
+
+I have treated of cabbage thus far when grown specially for stock; in
+every piece of cabbage handled for market purposes, there is a large
+proportion of waste suitable for stock feed, which includes the outside
+leaves and such heads as have not hardened up sufficiently for market.
+On walking over a piece just after my cabbages for seed stock have been
+taken off, I note that the refuse leaves that were stripped from the
+heads before pulling are so abundant they nearly cover the ground. If
+leaves so stripped remain exposed to frost, they soon spoil; or, if
+earlier in the season they are exposed to the sun, they soon become
+yellow, dry, and of but little value. They can be rapidly collected with
+a hay fork and carted, if there be but a few, into the barn; should
+there be a large quantity, dump them within a convenient distance of the
+barn or feeding ground, but not where the cattle can trample them, and
+spread them so that they will be but a few inches in depth. If piled in
+heaps they will quickly heat; but even then, if not too much decayed,
+cattle will eat them with avidity. Cabbages are hardy plants, and loose
+heads will stand a good deal of freezing and thawing without serious
+injury. They are not generally injured with the thermometer 16° below
+freezing. The waste, after the seed and all market cabbage are removed,
+brings me about $10 per acre on the ground, for cow feed.
+
+If cabbage is fed to cows in milk without some care, it will be apt to
+give the milk a strong cabbage flavor; all the feed for the day should
+be given early in the morning. Beginning with a small quantity, and
+gradually increasing it, the dairy man will soon learn his limits. The
+effect of a liberal feed to milk stock is to largely increase the flow
+of milk. Avoid feeding to any extent while the leaves are frozen.
+
+An English writer says: "The cabbage comes into use when other things
+begin to fail, and it is by far the best succulent vegetable for milking
+cows,--keeping up the yield of milk, and preserving, better than any
+other food, some portion of the quality which cheese loses when the cows
+quit their natural pasturage. Cows fed on cabbages are always quiet and
+satisfied, while on turnips they often scour and are restless. When
+frosted, they are liable to produce hoven, unless kept in a warm shed to
+thaw before being used; fifty-six pounds given, at two meals, are as
+much as a large cow should have in a day. Frequent cases of abortion are
+caused by an over-supply of green food. Cabbages are excellent for young
+animals, keeping them in health, and preventing 'black leg.' A calf of
+seven months may have twenty pounds a day."
+
+
+
+
+RAISING CABBAGE SEED.
+
+
+Cabbage seed in England, particularly of the drumhead sorts, is mostly
+raised from stumps, or from the refuse that remains after all that is
+salable has been disposed of. The agent of one of the largest English
+seed houses, a few years since, laughed at my "wastefulness," as he
+termed it, in raising seed from solid heads. In our country, cabbage
+seed is mostly raised from soft, half-formed heads, which are grown as a
+late crop, few, if any of them, being hard enough to be of any value in
+the market. Seedsmen practise selecting a few fine, hard heads, from
+which to raise their seed stock. It has been my practice to grow seed
+from none but extra fine heads, better than the average of those carried
+to market. I do this on the theory that no cabbage can be too good for a
+seedhead, if the design is to keep the stock first-class. Perhaps such
+strictness may not be necessary; but I had rather err in setting out too
+good heads than too poor ones; besides, the great hardness obtained by
+the heads of the Stone Mason, makes it possible, at least, that I am
+right. Cabbage raised from seed grown from stumps are apt to be
+unreliable for heading, and to grow long-stumped, though under
+unfavorable conditions, long-stumped and poor-headed cabbage may grow
+from the best of seed. To have the best of seed, all shoots that start
+below the head should be broken off. To prevent the plants falling over
+after the seed-stalks are grown, dig deep holes, and plant the entire
+stump in the ground. Scarecrows should be set up, or some like
+precaution be taken, to keep away the little seed-birds, that begin to
+crack the pods as soon as they commence to ripen. A plaster cat is a
+very good scarecrow to frighten away birds from seed and small fruits,
+if its location is changed every few days.
+
+I find that the pods of cabbage seed grown South are tough, and not
+brittle, like those grown North, and hence that they are injured but
+little, if any, by seed birds. When the seed-pods have passed what
+seedsmen call their "red" stage, they begin to harden; as soon as a
+third of them are brown, the entire stalk may be cut and hung up in a
+dry, airy place, for a few days, when the seed will be ready for rubbing
+or threshing out. Different varieties should be raised far apart to
+insure purity; and cabbage seed had better not be raised in the vicinity
+of turnip seed. There is some difference of opinion as to the effect of
+growing these near each other; where the two vegetables blossom at the
+same time, I should fear an admixture. When the care requisite to select
+good seed stock, and the trouble, and, often, great loss, in keeping it
+over winter, planting it in isolated locations, protecting it from wind
+and weather, guarding it from injury from birds and other enemies,
+gathering it, cleaning it, are all considered, few men will find that
+they can afford to raise their own seed, provided they can buy it from
+reliable seedsmen.
+
+
+
+
+COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC.
+
+
+Cabbage when boiled with salt pork, as it is mostly used, is the food
+for strong and healthy digestive powers; but when eaten in its raw
+state, served with vinegar and pepper, it is considered one of the most
+easily digested articles of diet. In the process of cooking, even with
+the greatest care, a large portion of the sweetness is lost. The length
+of time required to cook cabbage by boiling varies with the quality,
+those of the best quality requiring about twenty minutes, while others
+require an hour. In cooking put it into boiling water in which a little
+salt and soda has been sprinkled, which will tend to preserve the
+natural green color. It will be well to change the water once. The
+peculiar aroma given out by cabbage when cooking is thought to depend
+somewhat on the manner in which it is grown; those having been raised
+with the least rank manure having the least. I think this is one of the
+whims of the community. By using some varieties of boilers all steam is
+carried into the fire, and there is no smell in the house.
+
+To _Pickle_, select hard heads, quarter them, soak in salt and water
+four or five days, then drain and treat as for other pickles, with
+vinegar spiced to suit.
+
+For _Cold Slaw_, select hard heads, halve and then slice up these halves
+exceedingly fine. Lay these in a deep dish, and pour over vinegar that
+has been raised to the boiling point in which has been mixed a little
+pepper and salt.
+
+_Sour-Krout._ Take large, hard-headed drumheads, halve, and cut very
+fine; then pack in a clean, tight barrel, beginning with a sprinkling of
+salt, and following with a layer of cabbage, and thus alternating until
+the barrel is filled. Now compact the mass as much as possible by
+pounding, after which put on a well-fitting cover resting on the
+cabbage, and lay heavy weights or a stone on this. When fermented it is
+ready for use. To prepare for the table fry in butter or fat.
+
+The outer green leaves of cabbages are sometimes used to line a brass or
+copper kettle in which pickles are made in the belief that the vinegar
+extracts the coloring substance (chlorophyl) in the leaves, and the
+cucumbers absorbing this acquire a rich green color. Be not deceived by
+this transparent cheat, O simple housewife! the coloring matter comes
+almost wholly from the copper or brass behind those leaves; and, instead
+of an innocent vegetable pigment, your green cucumbers are dyed with the
+poisonous carbonate of copper.
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGES UNDER GLASS.
+
+
+The very early cabbages usually bringing high prices, the enterprising
+market gardener either winters the young plants under glass or starts
+them there, planting the seed under its protecting shelter long before
+the cold of winter is passed. When the design is to winter over fall
+grown plants, the seed are planted in the open ground about the middle
+of September, and at about the last of October they are ready to go into
+the cold frames, as such are called that depend wholly on the sun for
+heat. Select those having short stumps and transplant into the frames,
+about an inch and a half by two inches apart, setting them deep in the
+soil up to the lower leaves, shading them with a straw mat, or the like,
+for a few days, after which let them remain without any glass over them
+until the frost is severe enough to begin to freeze the ground, then
+place over the sashes; but bear in mind that the object is not to
+promote growth, but, as nearly as possible, to keep them in a dormant
+state, to keep them so cold that they will not grow, and just
+sufficiently protected to prevent injury from freezing. With this object
+in view the sashes must be raised whenever the temperature is above
+freezing, and this process will so harden the plants that they will
+receive no serious injury though the ground under the sash should freeze
+two inches deep; cabbage plants will stand a temperature of fifteen to
+twenty degrees below the freezing point. A covering of snow on the sash
+will do no harm, if it does not last longer than a week or ten days, in
+which case it must be removed. There is some danger to be feared from
+ground mice, who, when everything else is locked up by the frost, will
+instinctively take to the sash, and there cause much destruction among
+the plants unless these are occasionally examined. When March opens
+remove the sash when the temperature will allow, replacing it when the
+weather is unseasonably cold, particularly at night. The plants may be
+brought still farther forward by transferring them from the hot-bed when
+two or three inches high to cold frames, having first somewhat hardened
+them. When so transferred plant them about an inch apart, and shield
+from the sun for two or three days. After this they may be treated as in
+cold frames. The transfer tends to keep them stocky, increases the
+fibrous roots and makes the plants hardier. As the month advances it may
+be left entirely off, and about the first of April the plants may be set
+out in the open field, pressing fine earth firmly around the roots.
+
+When cabbages are raised in hot-beds the seed, in the latitude of
+Boston, should be planted on the first of March; in that of New York,
+about a fortnight earlier. When two or three inches high, which will be
+in three or four weeks, they should be thinned to about four or less to
+an inch in the row. They should now be well hardened by partly drawing
+off the sashes in the warm part of the day, and covering at night; as
+the season advances remove the sashes entirely by day, covering only at
+night. By about the middle of April the plants will be ready for the
+open ground.
+
+When raised in cold frames in the spring, the seed should be planted
+about the first of April, mats being used to retain by night the solar
+heat accumulated during the day. As the season advances the same process
+of hardening will be necessary as with those raised in hot-beds.
+
+
+
+
+COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED.
+
+
+To carry on hot-beds on a large scale successfully is almost an art in
+itself, and for fuller details I will refer my readers to works on
+gardening. Early plants, in a small way, may be raised in flower pots or
+boxes in a warm kitchen window. It is best, if practicable, to have but
+one plant in each pot, that they may grow short and stocky. If the seed
+are not planted earlier than April, for out-of-door cultivation, a cold
+frame will answer.
+
+For a cold frame select the locality in the fall, choosing a warm
+location on a southern slope, protected by a fence or building on the
+north and north-west. Set posts in the ground, nail two boards to these
+parallel to each other, one about a foot in height, and the other
+towards the south about four inches narrower; this will give the sashes
+resting on them the right slope to shed the rain and receive as much
+heat as possible from the sun. Have these boards at a distance apart
+equal to the length of the sash, which may be any common window sash for
+a small bed, while three and a half feet is the length of a common
+gardener's sash. If common window sash is used cut channels in the
+cross-bars to let the water run off. Dig the ground thoroughly (it is
+best to cover it in the fall with litter, to keep the frost out) and
+rake out all stones or clods; then slide in the sash and let it remain
+closed for three or four days, that the soil may be warmed by the sun's
+rays. The two end boards and the bottom board should rise as high as the
+sash, to prevent the heat escaping, and the bottom board of a small
+frame should have a strip nailed inside to rest the sash on. Next rake
+in, thoroughly, guano, or phosphate, or finely pulverized hen manure,
+and plant in rows four to six inches apart. As the season advances raise
+the sashes an inch or two, in the middle of the day, and water freely,
+at evening, with water that is nearly of the temperature of the earth in
+the frame. As the heat of the season increases whitewash the glass, and
+keep them more and more open until just before the plants are set in
+open ground, then allow the glass to remain entirely off, both day and
+night, unless there should be a cold rain. This will harden them so that
+they will not be apt to be injured by the cabbage beetle, as well as
+chilled and put back by the change. Should the plants be getting too
+large before the season for transplanting, they should be checked by
+root pruning,--drawing a sharp knife within a couple of inches of the
+stalk. If it is desirable still further to check their growth, or harden
+them, transplant into another cold frame, allowing each plant double the
+distance it before occupied.
+
+The structure and management of a hot-bed is much the same as that of a
+cold frame, with the exception that the sashes are usually longer and
+the back and front somewhat higher; being started earlier the requisite
+temperature has to be kept up by artificial means, fermenting manure
+being relied upon for the purpose; and the loss of this heat has to be
+checked more carefully by straw matting, and, in the far North, by
+shutters also. In constructing it, horse-manure, with plenty of litter,
+and about a quarter its bulk in leaves, if attainable, all having been
+well mixed together, is thrown into a pile, and left for a few days
+until steam escapes, when the mass is again thrown over and left for two
+or three days more, after which it is thrown into the pit (or it may be
+placed directly on the surface) which is lined with boards, from
+eighteen inches to two feet in depth, when it is beaten down with a fork
+and trodden well together. The sashes are now put on and kept there
+until heat is developed. The first intense heat must be allowed to pass
+off, which will be in about three days after the high temperature is
+reached. Now throw on six or eight inches of fine soil, in which mix
+well rotted manure, free from all straw, or rake in, thoroughly,
+superphosphate, or guano, at the rate of two thousand pounds to the
+acre, and plant the seed as in cold frame. Harden the plants as directed
+in preceding paragraph.
+
+
+
+
+CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE, AND SEA-KALE.
+
+
+My treatise on the cabbage would hardly be complete without some
+allusion to such prominent members of the Brassica family as the
+cauliflower, broccoli, brussels-sprouts, and kale.
+
+~Cauliflower.~ Wrote the great Dr. Johnson: "Of all the flowers of the
+garden, give me the cauliflower." Whether from this we are to infer the
+surpassing excellence of this member of the Brassica family, or that the
+distinguished lexicographer meant emphatically to state his preference
+of utility to beauty (perhaps our own Ben. Franklin took a leaf from
+him), each reader must be his own judge; but be that as it may, it
+remains true, beyond all controversy, that the cauliflower, in toothsome
+excellence, stands at the head of the great family of which it is a
+member. To be successful, and raise choice cauliflowers, is the height
+of the ambition of the market gardener; and, with all his experience,
+and with every facility at hand, he does not expect full success oftener
+than three years in four. The cauliflower, like the strawberry, is
+exceedingly sensitive to the presence or absence of sufficient water,
+and success or failure with the crop may turn on its having a full
+supply from the time they are half grown. The finest specimens raised in
+Europe are grown in beds, which are kept well watered from the supply
+which runs between them; and the most successful growers in the country
+irrigate their crops during periods of drouth. Cauliflowers do best on
+deep, rich, rather moist soils. In the way of food, they want the very
+best, and plenty of it at that. The successful competitor, who won the
+first prize at the great Bay State Fair, to the disgusted surprise of a
+grower justly famous for his almost uniform success in winning the
+laurels, whispered in my ear his secret: "R. manures very heavily in the
+spring for his crop. I manure very heavily both fall and spring." In
+manuring, therefore, do as well by them as by your heaviest crop of
+large drumhead cabbage, using rich and well-rotted manure, broadcast,
+with dissolved bone or ashes, or both, in the drill. Plough deep, and
+work the land very thoroughly, two ploughings, with a harrowing between,
+are better than one. Give plenty of room; three by three for the smaller
+sorts, and three by three and a half for the later and larger. They need
+the same cultivation, and, being subject to the same diseases and injury
+from insect enemies, need the same protection as their cousins of the
+cabbage tribe. In raising for the summer market, start in the cold
+frame, or plant as early as the ground can be worked, that the plants
+may get well started before the dry season, or the crop will be likely
+to make such small heads "buttons" as to be practically a failure. For
+late crop, plant seed in the hills where they are to grow, from the 20th
+of May to the middle of June. The crop ripens somewhat irregularly. When
+there is danger from frost, the later heads should be pulled and stored,
+with both roots and leaves, being crowded, standing as they grew, into a
+cold cellar or cold pit, when they will continue growing. As soon as the
+heads begin to form, they should be protected from sunlight by either
+half breaking off the outer leaves and bending them over them, or by
+gathering these leaves loosely together and confining them loosely by
+rough pegs, or by tying them together with a wisp of rye-straw.
+
+~Varieties.~ These are almost as numerous as in the cabbage family. I
+find notes on some thirty-five varieties, tested from year to year, in
+my experimental grounds. Most of them prove themselves to be but a
+lottery, in this country of dry seasons, though in the moister climate
+of the European localities, where they are at home, they are a success.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Half-Early Paris, or Demi-Dur, was for years the standard variety
+raised in this country, and from this, by selection, favorite local
+varieties were obtained; but, of late years, this has been, to a large
+degree, superseded by several excellent sorts, of which the Extra-Early
+Dwarf Erfurt was, doubtless the parent. Principal among these varieties
+are the Snowball, the Sea-Foam, Vick's Ideal, and Berlin Dwarf. All of
+these are early sorts and excellent strains. After testing them side by
+side, I find that the best strain of the Snowball is not excelled by
+either of them. Of the somewhat later ripening sorts, a variety which
+originated in this country, called the "Long Island Beauty," gives me
+great satisfaction, in its reliability for heading, and in the large
+size of its heads; this, with the Algerian, as a larger late sort, will
+give us a first-class series.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Cauliflower seed is not raised, as yet, to any large extent in this
+country, though some successful efforts have recently been made in this
+direction. I have found that there is a remarkable difference between
+varieties in the quantity of seed they will yield. From one variety I
+have raised as high as sixty pounds of seed from a given number of
+plants, while from two others, equally early, having the same number of
+plants in each instance, and raised in the same location (an island in
+the ocean), with precisely the same treatment in every way, I got, in
+each case, less than a tablespoonful of seed, though the heads of some
+of them grew to the enormous size of sixteen inches in diameter.
+
+A fine cauliflower is the pet achievement of the market gardener. The
+great aim is not to produce size only, "but the fine, white, creamy
+color, compactness, and what is technically called curdy appearance,
+from its resemblance to the curd of milk in its preparation for cheese.
+When the flower begins to open, or when it is of a warty or frost-like
+appearance, it is less esteemed. It should not be cut in summer above a
+day before it is used." The cauliflower is served with milk and butter,
+or it may become a component of soups, or be used as a pickle.
+
+The ~Broccoli~ are closely allied to the cauliflower, the white
+varieties bearing so close a resemblance that one of them, the
+Walcheren, is by some classed indiscriminately with each. The chief
+distinction between the two is in hardiness, the broccoli being much the
+hardier.
+
+Of Broccoli over forty varieties are named in foreign catalogues, of
+which WALCHEREN is one of the very best. KNIGHT'S PROTECTING is an
+exceedingly hardy dwarf sort. As a rule, the white varieties are
+preferred to the purple kinds. Plant and treat as cauliflower.
+
+Of ~Brussels-Sprouts~ (or bud-bearing cabbage) there are but two
+varieties, the dwarf and the tall; the tall kind produces more buds,
+while the dwarf is the hardier. The "sprouts" form on the stalks, and
+are miniature heads of cabbage from the size of a pea to that of a
+pigeon's egg. They are raised to but a limited extent in this country,
+but in Europe they are grown on a large scale. The sprouts may be
+cooked and served like cabbage, though oftentimes they are treated more
+as a delicacy and served with butter or some rich sauce. The FEATHER
+STEM SAVOY and DALMENY SPROUTS are considered as hybrids,
+the one between the brussels-sprouts and Savoy, the other between it and
+Drumhead Savoy. The soil for brussels-sprouts should not be so rich as
+for cabbage, as the object is to grow them small and solid. Give the
+same distance apart as for early cabbage, and the same manner of
+cultivation. Break off the leaves at the sides a few at a time when the
+sprouts begin to form and when they are ready to use cut them off with a
+sharp knife.
+
+~Kale.~ Sea-kale, or sea-cabbage, is a native of the sea coast of
+England, growing in the sand and pebbles of the sea-shore. It is a
+perennial, perfectly hardy, withstanding the coldest winters of New
+England. The blossoms, though bearing a general resemblance to those of
+other members of the cabbage family, are yet quite unique in appearance,
+and I think worthy of a place in the flower garden. It is propagated
+both by seed and by cuttings of the roots, having the rows three feet
+apart, and the plants three feet apart in the rows. It is difficult to
+get the seeds to vegetate. Plant seed in April and May. The ground
+should be richly manured, and deeply and thoroughly worked. It is
+blanched before using. In cooking it it requires to be very thoroughly
+boiled, after which it is served up in melted butter and toasted bread.
+The sea-kale is highly prized in England; but thus far its cultivation
+in this country has been very limited.
+
+The ~Borecole~, or common kale, is of the cabbage family, but is
+characterized by not heading like the cabbage or producing eatable
+flowers like the cauliflower and broccoli. The varieties are very
+numerous, some of them growing very large and coarse, suitable only as
+food for stock; others are exceedingly finely curled, and excellent for
+table use; while others in their color and structure are highly
+ornamental. They are annual, biennial, and perennial. They do not
+require so strong a soil or such high manuring as other varieties of the
+cabbage family.
+
+The varieties are almost endless; some of the best in cultivation for
+table use are the DWARF SCOTCH, DWARF GREEN CURLED or GERMAN GREENS,
+TALL GREEN CURLED, PURPLE BORECOLE, and the variegated kales. The crown
+of the plant is used as greens, or as an ingredient in soups. The kales
+are very hardy, and the dwarf varieties, with but little protection, can
+be kept in the North well into the winter in the open ground. Plant and
+cultivate like Savoy cabbage.
+
+The variegated sorts, with their fine curled leaves of a rich purple,
+green, red, white, or yellow color, are very pleasing in their effects,
+and form a striking and attractive feature when planted in clumps in the
+flower garden, particularly is this so because their extreme hardiness
+leaves them in full vigor after the cold has destroyed all other
+plants--some of the richest colors are developed along the veins of the
+uppermost leaves after the plant has nearly finished its growth for the
+season. The JERSEY COW KALE grows to from three to six feet in
+height and yields a great body of green food for stock; have the rows
+about three feet apart, and the plants two to three feet distant in the
+rows. In several instances my customers have written me that this kale
+raised for stock feed has given them great satisfaction.
+
+The THOUSAND-HEADED KALE is a tall variety sending out numerous
+side shoots, whence the name.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+SQUASHES:
+
+HOW TO GROW THEM.
+
+PRICE, 30 CENTS, BY MAIL.
+
+This treatise is amply illustrated, and gives full particulars on every
+point, including keeping and marketing the crop.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+FERTILIZERS:
+
+WHERE THE MATERIALS COME FROM; HOW TO GET THEM IN THE CHEAPEST FORM; HOW
+TO MAKE OUR OWN FERTILIZERS.
+
+
+In this work there will be found many valuable tables, with many
+suggestions, and much information on the purchase of materials, the
+combining of them, and the use of the fertilizers made from them. I
+believe it will give a good return to any of my customers, for his
+outlay. The treatise makes a book of 116 pages.
+
+PRICE, BY MAIL, 40 CENTS.
+
+
+CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS:
+
+_HOW TO GROW THEM_.
+
+A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT, INCLUDING
+KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.
+
+BY
+
+JAMES J. H. GREGORY, AUTHOR OF WORKS ON SQUASH RAISING, ONION RAISING,
+ETC., ETC.
+
+BOSTON: CASHMAN, KEATING & CO., PRINTERS, 1889.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ONION RAISING:
+
+ WHAT KINDS TO RAISE
+ AND
+ THE WAY TO RAISE THEM.
+
+BY
+
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+ SEED GROWER AND DEALER,
+ MARBLEHEAD, MASS.
+
+This work has been warmly recommended by some of the best authorities in
+the country, and has gone through fourteen editions. It gives the
+minutest details, from selecting the ground and preparing the soil, up
+to gathering and marketing the crop. Illustrated with thirteen
+engravings of Onions, Sowing Machines, and Weeding Machines.
+
+~PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.~
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+A NEW TREATISE.
+
+CARROTS, MANGOLD WURTZELS
+
+AND
+
+SUGAR BEETS.
+
+WHAT KIND TO RAISE:
+
+How to Grow Them
+
+AND
+
+How to Feed Them.
+
+This treatise presents, in minutest detail, every step of progress, from
+planting the seed to the matured crop.
+
+BY
+
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+ MARBLEHEAD, MASS.
+
+PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow
+Them, by James John Howard Gregory
+
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+ <head>
+ <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+ <title>
+ The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers, by James J. H. Gregory.
+ </title>
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+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them, by
+James John Howard Gregory
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them
+ A Practical Treatise, Giving Full Details On Every Point,
+ Including Keeping And Marketing The Crop
+
+Author: James John Howard Gregory
+
+Release Date: August 8, 2006 [EBook #19006]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS: ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images produced by Core Historical
+Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+ <h5>New York<br />
+ State College of Agriculture<br />
+ At Cornell University<br />
+ Ithaca, N. Y.<br /><br />
+
+ Library</h5>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+<h1>CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS:</h1>
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+<h3><i>HOW TO GROW THEM</i>.</h3>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+ <h4>A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT,
+ INCLUDING KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.</h4>
+<p><br /></p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img002.jpg" alt="Cabbage Head" title="Cabbage Head" /></div>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+ <h4>BY</h4>
+
+ <h2>JAMES J. H. GREGORY,</h2>
+
+<h4>AUTHOR OF WORKS ON SQUASH RAISING, ONION RAISING,<br />
+ETC., ETC.</h4>
+
+ <h4>ORIGINAL INTRODUCER OF THE MARBLEHEAD, DEEP HEAD, WARREN,
+ ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING, AND REYNOLDS CABBAGES.</h4>
+<p><br /></p>
+<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Boston</span>:<br />CASHMAN, KEATING &amp; CO., PRINTERS,<br />1889.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<p class='center'>
+ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by<br />
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,<br />
+ In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><br /></p>
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Object of Treatise</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'><b>1</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Origin of Cabbage</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'><b>1</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">What a Cabbage is</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_2'><b>2</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Selecting the Soil</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_4'><b>4</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparing the Soil</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_5'><b>5</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Manure</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_6'><b>6</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">How to Apply the Manure</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_8'><b>8</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Making the Hills and Planting the Seed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Care of the Young Plants</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'><b>16</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Protecting the Plants from their Enemies</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Green Worm</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'><b>22</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Club, or Stump Root, or Maggot</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Care of the Growing Crop</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_29'><b>29</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Marketing the Crop</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Keeping Cabbage through the Winter</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Having Cabbage make Heads in Winter</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_39'><b>39</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Foreign Varieties of Cabbage</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_43'><b>43</b></a>-<a href='#Page_45'><b>45</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">American Varieties</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a>-<a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Savoy Varieties</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a>-<a href='#Page_63'><b>63</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Other Varieties</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_63'><b>63</b></a>-<a href='#Page_67'><b>67</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cabbage Greens</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#greens'><b>67</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cabbage for Stock</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_69'><b>69</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Raising Cabbage Seed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cooking Cabbage, Sour-Krout, etc.</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_75'><b>75</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cabbage under Glass</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_76'><b>76</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cold Frame and Hot-Bed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussels-Sprouts, Kale and Sea-Kale</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+<h2>CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS.</h2>
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>OBJECT OF THIS TREATISE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>As a general, yet very thorough, response to inquiries from many of my
+customers about cabbage raising, I have aimed in this treatise to tell
+them all about the subject. The different inquiries made from time to
+time have given me a pretty clear idea of the many heads under which
+information is wanted; and it has been my aim to give this with the same
+thoroughness of detail as in my little work on Squashes. I have
+endeavored to talk in a very practical way, drawing from a large
+observation and experience, and receiving, in describing varieties, some
+valuable information from McIntosh's work, "The Book of the Garden."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Botanists tell us that all of the Cabbage family, which includes not
+only every variety of cabbage, Red, White, and Savoy, but all the
+cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and brussels sprouts, had their origin in
+the wild cabbage of Europe (<i>Brassica oleracea</i>), a plant with green,
+wavy leaves, much resembling charlock, found growing wild at Dover in
+England, and other parts of Europe. This plant, says McIntosh, is mostly
+confined to the sea-shore, and grows only on chalky or calcareous
+soils.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Thus through the wisdom of the Great Father of us all, who occasionally
+in his great garden allows vegetables to sport into a higher form of
+life, and grants to some of these sports sufficient strength of
+individuality to enable them to perpetuate themselves, and, at times, to
+blend their individuality with that of other sports, we have the heading
+cabbage in its numerous varieties, the creamy cauliflower, the feathery
+kale, the curled savoy. On my own grounds from a strain of seed that had
+been grown isolated for years, there recently came a plant that in its
+structure closely resembled Brussels Sprouts, growing about two feet in
+height, with a small head under each leaf. The cultivated cabbage was
+first introduced into England by the Romans, and from there nearly all
+the kinds cultivated in this country were originally brought. Those
+which we consider as peculiarly American varieties, have only been made
+so by years of careful improvement on the original imported sorts. The
+characteristics of these varieties will be given farther on.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>WHAT A CABBAGE IS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>If we cut vertically through the middle of the head, we shall find it
+made up of successive layers of leaves, which grow smaller and smaller,
+almost <i>ad infinitum</i>. Now, if we take a fruit bud from an apple-tree
+and make a similar section of it, we shall find the same structure. If
+we observe the development of the two, as spring advances, we shall find
+another similarity (the looser the head the closer will be the
+resemblance),&mdash;the outer leaves of each will unwrap and unfold, and a
+flower stem will push out from each. Here we see that a cabbage is a
+bud, a seed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> bud (as all fruit buds may be termed, the production of
+seed being the primary object in nature, the fruit enclosing it playing
+but a secondary part), the office of the leaves being to cover, protect,
+and afterwards nourish the young seed shoot. The outer leaves which
+surround the head appear to have the same office as the leaves which
+surround the growing fruit bud, and that office closes with the first
+year, as does that of the leaves surrounding fruit buds, when each die
+and drop off. In my locality the public must have perceived more or less
+clearly the analogy between the heads of cabbage and the buds of trees,
+for when they speak of small heads they frequently call them "buds."
+That the close wrapped leaves which make the cabbage head and surround
+the seed germ, situated just in the middle of the head at the
+termination of the stump, are necessary for its protection and nutrition
+when young, is proved, I think, by the fact that those cabbages, the
+heads of which are much decayed, when set out for seed, no matter how
+sound the seed germ may be at the end of the stump, never make so large
+or healthy a seed shoot as those do the heads of which are sound; as a
+rule, after pushing a feeble growth, they die.</p>
+
+<p>For this reason I believe that the office of the head is similar to and
+as necessary as that of the leaves which unwrap from around the blossom
+buds of our fruit trees. It is true that the parallel cannot be fully
+maintained, as the leaves which make up the cabbage head do not to an
+equal degree unfold (particularly is this true of hard heads); yet they
+exhibit a vitality of their own, which is seen in the deeper green color
+the outer leaves soon attain, and the change from tenderness to
+toughness in their struc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>ture: I think, therefore, that the degree of
+failure in the parallel may be measured by the difference between a
+higher and a lower form of organic life.</p>
+
+<p>Some advocate the economy of cutting off a large portion of the heads
+when cabbages are set out for seed to use as food for stock. There is
+certainly a great temptation, standing amid acres of large, solid, heads
+in the early spring months, when green food of all kinds is scarce, to
+cut and use such an immense amount of rich food, which, to the
+inexperienced eye, appears to be utterly wasted if left to decay, dry,
+and fall to the ground; but, for the reason given above, I have never
+done so. It is possible that large heads may bear trimming to a degree
+without injury to the seed crop; yet I should consider this an
+experiment, and one to be tried with a good deal of caution.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SELECTING THE SOIL.</h2>
+
+
+<p>In some of the best cabbage-growing sections of the country, until
+within a comparatively few years it was the very general belief that
+cabbage would not do well on upland. Accordingly the cabbage patch would
+be found on the lowest tillage land of the farm. No doubt, the lowest
+soil being the richer from a gradual accumulation of the wash from the
+upland, when manure was but sparingly used, cabbage would thrive better
+there than elsewhere,&mdash;and not, as was generally held, because that
+vegetable needed more moisture than any other crop. Cabbage can be
+raised with success on any good corn land, provided such land is well
+manured; and there is no more loss in seasons of drouth on such land
+than there is in seasons of excessive moisture on the lower tillage land
+of the farm. I wish I could preach a very loud<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> sermon to all my farmer
+friends on the great value of liberal manuring to carry crops
+successfully through the effects of a severe drouth. Crops on soil
+precisely alike, with but a wall to separate them, will, in a very dry
+season, present a striking difference,&mdash;the one being in fine vigor, and
+the other "suffering from drouth," as the owner will tell you; but, in
+reality, from want of food.</p>
+
+<p>The smaller varieties of cabbage will thrive well on either light or
+strong soil, but the largest drumheads do best on strong soil. For the
+<i>Brassica</i> family, including cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, etc.,
+there is no soil so suitable as freshly turned sod, provided the surface
+is well fined by the harrow; it is well to have as stout a crop of
+clover or grass, growing on this sod, when turned under, as possible,
+and I incline to the belief that it would be a judicious investment to
+start a thick growth of these by the application of guano to the surface
+sufficiently long before turning the sod to get an extra growth of the
+clover or grass. If the soil be very sandy in character, I would advise
+that the variety planted be the Winnigstadt, which, in my experience, is
+unexcelled for making a hard head under almost any conditions, however
+unpropitious. Should the soil be naturally very wet it should be
+underdrained, or stump foot will be very likely to appear, which is
+death to all success.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>PREPARING THE SOIL.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Should the soil be a heavy clay, a deep fall ploughing is best, that the
+frosts of winter may disintegrate it; and should the plan be to raise an
+early crop, this end will be promoted by fall ploughing, on any soil, as
+the land will thereby be made drier in early<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> spring. In New England the
+soil for cabbages should be ploughed as deep as the subsoil, and the
+larger drumheads should be planted only on the deepest soil. If the
+season should prove a favorable one, a good crop of cabbage may be grown
+on sod broken up immediately after a crop of hay has been taken from it,
+provided plenty of fine manure is harrowed in. One great risk here is
+from the dry weather that usually prevails at that season, preventing
+the prompt germination of the seed, or rooting of the plants. It is
+prudent in such a case to have a good stock of plants, that such as die
+may be promptly replaced. It is wise to plant the seed for these a week
+earlier than the main crop, for when transplanted to fill the vacant
+places it will take about a week for them to get well rooted.</p>
+
+<p>The manure may be spread on the surface of either sod or stubble land
+and ploughed under, or be spread on the surface after ploughing and
+thoroughly worked into the soil by the wheel harrow or cultivator. On
+ploughed sod I have found nothing so satisfactory as the class of wheel
+harrows, which not only cut the manure up fine and work it well under,
+but by the same operation cut and pulverize the turf until the sod may
+be left not over an inch in thickness. To do the work thus thoroughly
+requires a yoke of oxen or a pair of stout horses. All large stones and
+large pieces of turf that are torn up and brought to the surface should
+be carted off before making the hills.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>THE MANURE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Any manure but hog manure for cabbage,&mdash;barn manure, rotten kelp,
+night-soil, guano, fertilizers, wood<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> ashes, fish, salt, glue waste, hen
+manure, slaughter-house manure. I have used all of these, and found
+them all good when rightly applied. If pure hog manure is used it is apt
+to produce that corpulent enlargement of the roots known in different
+localities as "stump foot," "underground head," "finger and thumb;" but
+I have found barn manure on which hogs have run, two hogs to each
+animal, excellent. The cabbage is the rankest of feeders, and to perfect
+the larger sort a most liberal allowance of the richest composts is
+required. To grow the smaller varieties either barn-yard manure, guano,
+fertilizers, or wood ashes, if the soil be in good condition, will
+answer; though the richer and more abundant the manure the larger are
+the cabbages, and the earlier the crop will mature.</p>
+
+<p>To perfect the large varieties of drumhead,&mdash;by which I mean to make
+them grow to the greatest size possible,&mdash;I want a strong compost of
+barn-yard manure, with night-soil and muck or fish-waste, and, if
+possible, rotten kelp. A compost into which night-soil enters as a
+component is best made by first covering a plot of ground, of easy
+access, with soil or muck that has been exposed to a winter's frost, to
+the depth of about eighteen inches, and raising around this a rim about
+three feet in height, and thickness. Into this the night-soil is poured
+from carts built for the purpose, until the receptacle is about
+two-thirds full. Barn manure is now added, being dropped around and
+covering the outer rim, and, if the supply is sufficient, on the top of
+the heap also, on which it can be carted after cold weather sets in.
+Early in spring, the entire mass should be pitched over, thoroughly
+broken up with the bar and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> pick where frozen, and the frozen masses
+thrown on the surface. In pitching over the mass, work the rim in
+towards the middle of the heap. After the frozen lumps have thawed, give
+the heap another pitching over, aiming to mix all the materials
+thoroughly together, and make the entire mass as fine as possible. A
+covering of sand, thrown over the heap, before the last pitching, will
+help fine it.</p>
+
+<p>To produce a good crop of cabbages, with a compost of this quality, from
+six to twelve cords will be required to the acre. If the land is in good
+heart, by previous high cultivation, or the soil is naturally very
+strong, six cords will give a fair crop of the small varieties; while,
+with the same conditions, from nine to twelve cords to the acre will be
+required to perfect the largest variety grown, the Marblehead Mammoth
+Drumhead.</p>
+
+<p>Of the other kinds of manure named above, I will treat farther under the
+head of:</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The manure is sometimes applied wholly in the hill, at other times
+partly broadcast and partly in the hill. If the farmer desires to make
+the utmost use of his manure for that season, it will be best to put
+most of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather short;
+but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year's
+crop, he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to use
+all my rich compost broadcast, and depend on guano, fertilizers, or hen
+manure in the hill. Let all guano, if at all lumpy, like the Peruvian,
+be sifted, and let all the hard lumps be reduced by pounding, until the
+largest pieces shall not be larger than half a pea,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> before it is
+brought upon the ground. My land being ready, the compost worked under
+and the rows marked out, I select three trusty hands who can be relied
+upon to follow faithfully my directions in applying so dangerous manure
+as guano is in careless or ignorant hands; one takes a bucket of it,
+and, if for large cabbage, drops as much as he can readily close in his
+shut hand, where each hill is to be; if for small sorts, then about half
+that quantity, spreading it over a circle about a foot in diameter; the
+second man follows with a pronged hoe, or better yet, a six-tined fork,
+with which he works the guano well into the soil, first turning it three
+or four inches under the surface, and then stirring the soil <i>very
+thoroughly</i> with the hoe or fork. Unless the guano (and this is also
+true of most fertilizers) is faithfully mixed up with the soil, the seed
+will not vegetate. Give the second man about an hour the start, and then
+let the third man follow with the seed. Of other fertilizers, I use
+about half as much again as of guano to each hill, and of hen manure a
+heaping handful, after it has been finely broken up, and, if moist,
+slightly mixed with dry earth. When salt is used, it should not be
+depended on exclusively, but be used in connection with other manures,
+at the rate of from ten to fifteen bushels to the acre, applied
+broadcast over the ground, or thoroughly mixed with the manure before
+that is applied; if dissolved in the manure, better yet. Salt itself is
+not a manure. Its principal office is to change other materials into
+plant food. Fish and glue waste are exceedingly powerful manures, very
+rich in ammonia, and, if used the first season, they should be in
+compost. It is best to handle fish waste, such as heads, entrails,
+backbones,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> and liver waste, precisely like night soil. "Porgy cheese,"
+or "chum," the refuse, after pressing out the oil from menhaden and
+halibut heads, and sometimes sold extensively for manure, is best
+prepared for use by composting it with muck or loam, layer with layer,
+at the rate of a barrel to every foot and a half, cord measure, of soil.
+As soon as it shows some heat, turn it, and repeat the process, two or
+three times, until it is well decomposed, when apply. Another excellent
+way to use fish waste is to compost it with barn manure, in the open
+fields. It will be best to have six inches of soil under the heap, and
+not layer the fish with the lower half of the manure, for it strikes
+down. Glue waste is a very coarse, lumpy manure, and requires a great
+deal of severe manipulation, if it is to be applied the first season. A
+better way is to compost it with soil, layer with layer, having each
+layer about a foot in thickness, and so allow it to remain over until
+the next season, before using. This will decompose most of the straw,
+and break down the hard, tough lumps. In applying this to the crop, most
+of it had better be used broadcast, as it is apt, at best, to be rather
+too coarse and concentrated to be used liberally directly in the hill.
+Slaughter-house manure should be treated much like glue manure.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Proctor, of Beverly, has raised cabbage successfully on strong clay
+soil, by spreading a compost of muck containing fish waste, in which the
+fish is well decomposed, at the rate of two tons of the fish to an acre
+of land, after plowing, and then, having made his furrows at the right
+distance apart, harrowing the land thoroughly crossways with the
+furrows. The result was, besides mixing the manure thor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>oughly with the
+soil, to land an extra proportion of it in the furrows, which was
+equivalent to manuring in the drill.</p>
+
+<p>Cabbage can be raised on fertilizers alone. I have raised some crops in
+this way; but have been led to plow in from four to six cords of good
+manure to the acre, and then use from five hundred to a thousand pounds
+of some good fertilizer in the hill. The reason I prefer to use a
+portion of the cabbage food in the form of manure, is, that I have
+noticed that when the attempt is made to raise the larger drumhead
+varieties on fertilizers only, the cabbages, just as the heads are well
+formed, are apt to come nearly to a standstill. I explain this on the
+supposition that they exhaust most of the fertilizer, or some one of the
+ingredients that enter into it, during the earlier stage of growth;
+perhaps from the fact that the food is in so easily digestible
+condition, they use an over share of it, and the fact that those fed on
+fertilizers only, tend to grow longer stumped than usual, appears to
+give weight to this opinion. Though any good fertilizer is good for
+cabbage, yet I prefer those compounded on the basis of an analysis of
+the composition of the plants; they should contain the three
+ingredients, nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in the proportion of
+six, seven, five, taking them in the order in which I have written them.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The idea is quite prevalent that cabbages will not head up well except
+the plants are started in beds, and then transplanted into the hills
+where they are to mature. This is an error, so far as it applies to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> the
+Northern States,&mdash;the largest and most experienced cultivators of
+cabbage in New England usually dropping the seed directly where the
+plant is to stand, unless they are first started under glass, or the
+piece of land to be planted cannot be prepared in season to enable the
+farmer to put his seed directly in the hill and yet give the cabbage
+time sufficient to mature. Where the climate is unpropitious, or the
+quantity of manure applied is insufficient, it is possible that
+transplanting may promote heading. The advantages of planting directly
+in the hill, are a saving of time, avoiding the risks incidental to
+transplanting, and having all the piece start alike; for, when
+transplanted, many die and have to be replaced, while some hesitate much
+longer than others before starting, thus making a want of uniformity in
+the maturing of the crop. There is, also, this advantage, there being
+several plants in each hill, the cut-worm has to depredate pretty
+severely before he really injures the piece; again, should the seed not
+vegetate in any of the hills, every farmer will appreciate the advantage
+of having healthy plants growing so near at hand that they can be
+transferred to the vacant spaces with their roots so undisturbed that
+their growth is hardly checked. In addition to the labor of
+transplanting saved by this plan, the great check that plants always
+receive when so treated is prevented, and also the extra risks that
+occur should a season of drouth follow. It is the belief of some
+farmers, that plants growing where the seed was planted are less liable
+to be destroyed by the cut-worm than those that have been transplanted.
+When planning to raise late cabbage on upland, I sow a portion of the
+seed on a moist spot, or, in case a portion of the land is moist, I
+plant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> the hills on such land with an extra quantity of seed, that I may
+have enough plants for the whole piece, should the weather prove to be
+too dry for the seed to vegetate on the dryer portions of it. It is wise
+to sow these extra plants about a week earlier, for they will be put
+back about a week by transplanting them.</p>
+
+<p>Some of our best farmers drill their seed in with a sowing machine, such
+as is used for onions, carrots, and other vegetable crops. This is a
+very expeditious way, and has the advantage of leaving the plants in
+rows instead of bunches, as in the hill system, and thus enables the hoe
+to do most of the work of thinning. It has also this advantage: each
+plant being by itself can be left much longer before thinning, and yet
+not grow long in the stump, thus making it available for transplanting,
+or for sale in the market, for a longer period.</p>
+
+<p>The usual way of preparing the hills is to strike out furrows with a
+small, one-horse plough, as far apart as the rows are to be. As it is
+very important that the rows should be as straight as practicable, it is
+a good plan to run back once in each furrow, particularly on sod land
+where the plough will be apt to catch in the turf and jump out of line.
+A manure team follows, containing the dressing for the hills, which has
+previously been pitched over and beaten up until all the ingredients are
+fine and well mixed. This team is so driven, if possible, as to avoid
+running in the furrows. Two or three hands follow with forks or shovels,
+pitching the manure into the furrows at the distance apart that has been
+determined on for the hills. How far apart these are to be will depend
+on the varieties, from eighteen inches to four feet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> On land that has
+been very highly manured for a series of years, cabbage can be planted
+nearer than on land that has been under the plow but a few years. For
+the distance apart for different varieties see farther on. The manure is
+levelled with hoes, a little soil is drawn over it, and a slight stamp
+with the back of the hoe is given to level this soil, and, at the same
+time, to mark the hill. The planter follows with seed in a tin box, or
+any small vessel having a broad bottom, and taking a small pinch between
+the thumb and forefinger he gives a slight scratch with the remaining
+fingers of the same hand, and dropping in about half a dozen seed covers
+them half an inch deep with a sweep of the hand, and packs the earth by
+a gentle pat with the open palm to keep the moisture in the ground and
+thus promote the vegetation of the seed. With care a quarter of a pound
+of seed will plant an acre, when dropped directly in the hills; but half
+a pound is the common allowance, as there is usually some waste from
+spilling, while most laborers plant with a free hand.</p>
+
+<p>The soil over the hills being very light and porous, careless hands are
+apt to drop the seed too deep. Care should be taken not to drop the seed
+all in one spot, but to scatter them over a surface of two or three
+inches square, that each plant may have room to develop without crowding
+its neighbors.</p>
+
+<p>If the seed is planted in a line instead of in a mass the plants can be
+left longer before the final thinning without danger of growing tall and
+weak.</p>
+
+<p>If the seed is to be drilled in, it will be necessary to scatter the
+manure all along the furrows, then cover with a plough, roughly leveling
+with a rake.</p>
+
+<p>Should the compost applied to the hills be very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> concentrated, it will
+be apt to produce stump foot; it will, therefore, be safest in such
+cases to hollow out the middle with the corner of the hoe, or draw the
+hoe through and fill in with earth, that the roots of the young plants
+may not come in direct contact with the compost as soon as they begin to
+push.</p>
+
+<p>When guano or phosphates are used in the hills it will be well to mark
+out the rows with a plough, and then, where each hill is to be, fill in
+the soil level to the surface with a hoe, before applying them. I have,
+in a previous paragraph, given full instructions how to apply these. Hen
+manure, if moist, should be broken up very fine, and be mixed with some
+dry earth to prevent it from again lumping together, and the mixture
+applied in sufficient quantity to make an equivalent of a heaping
+handful of pure hen manure to each hill. Any liquid manure is excellent
+for the cabbage crop; but it should be well diluted, or it will be
+likely to produce stump foot.</p>
+
+<p>Cabbage seed of almost all varieties are nearly round in form, but are
+not so spherical as turnip seed. I note, however, that seed of the
+Savoys are nearly oval. In color they are light brown when first
+gathered, but gradually turn dark brown if not gathered too early. An
+ounce contains nearly ten thousand seed, but should not be relied upon
+for many over two thousand good plants, and these are available for
+about as many hills only when raised in beds and transplanted; when
+dropped directly in the hills it will take not far from eight ounces of
+the larger sorts to plant an acre, and of the smaller cabbage rather
+more than this. Cabbage seed when well cured and kept in close bags will
+retain their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> vitality four or five years; old gardeners prefer seed of
+all the cabbage family two or three years old.</p>
+
+<p>When the plan is to raise the young plants in beds to be transplanted,
+the ground selected for the beds should be of rich soil; this should be
+very thoroughly dug, and the surface worked and raked very fine, every
+stone and lump of earth being removed. Now sprinkle the seed evenly over
+the bed and gently rake in just under the surface, compacting the soil
+by pressure with a board. As soon as the young plants appear, sprinkle
+them with air-slaked lime. Transplant when three or four inches high,
+being very careful not to let the plants get tall and weak.</p>
+
+<p>For late cabbage, in the latitude of Boston, to have cabbages ready for
+market about the first of November, the Marblehead Mammoth should be
+planted the 20th of May, other late drumheads from June 1st to June
+12th, provided the plants are not to be transplanted; otherwise a week
+earlier. In those localities where the growing season is later, the seed
+should be planted proportionally later.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>In four or five days, if the weather is propitious, the young plants
+will begin to break ground, presenting at the surface two leaves, which
+together make nearly a square, like the first leaves of turnips or
+radishes. As soon as the third leaf is developed, go over the piece, and
+boldly thin out the plants. Wherever they are very thick, pull a mass of
+them with the fingers and thumb, being careful to fill up the hole made
+with fine earth. After the fourth leaf is developed, go over the piece
+again and thin still more; you need specially to guard against a
+slender,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> weak growth, which will happen when the plants are too
+crowded. In thinning, leave the short-stumped plants, and leave them as
+far apart in the hill as possible, that they may not shade each other,
+or so interfere in growing as to make long stumps. If there is any
+market for young plants, thousands can be sold from an acre when the
+seed are planted in the hill; but in doing this bear in mind that your
+principal object is to raise cabbages, and to succeed in this the young
+plants must on no account be allowed to stand so long together in the
+hills as to crowd each other, making a tall, weak, slender
+growth,&mdash;getting "long-legged," as the farmers call it.</p>
+
+<p>If the manure in any of the hills is too strong, the fact will be known
+by its effects on the plants, which will be checked in their growth, and
+be of a darker green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away the
+earth from the roots of such with the fingers, and draw around fresh
+earth; or, what is as well or better, transplant a healthy plant just on
+the edge of the hill. When the plants are finger high they are of a good
+size to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. When
+transplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and do not begin until
+sufficient rain has fallen to moisten the earth around the roots, which
+will make it more likely to adhere to them when taken up. Take up the
+young plants by running the finger or a trowel under them; put these
+into a flat basket or box, and in transplanting set them to the same
+depth they originally grew, pressing the earth a little about the roots.</p>
+
+<p>If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry spell, as usually
+happens, select the latter part of the afternoon, if practicable, and,
+making holes with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> dibble, or any pointed stick an inch and a half in
+diameter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with water; and
+as soon as the water is about soaked away, beginning with the hole first
+filled, set out your plants. The evaporation of the moisture below the
+roots will keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants have
+great tenacity of life, and will rally and grow when they appear to be
+dead; the leaves may all die, and dry up like hay, but if the stump
+stands erect and the unfolded leaf at the top of the stump is alive, the
+plant will usually survive. When the plants are quite large, they may be
+used successfully by cutting or breaking off the larger leaves. Some
+advocate wilting the plants before transplanting, piling them in the
+cellar a few days before setting them out, to toughen them and get a new
+setting of fine roots; others challenge their vigor by making it a rule
+to do all transplanting under the heat of mid-day. I think there is not
+much of reason in this latter course. The young plants can be set out
+almost as fast as a man can walk, by holding the roots close to one side
+of the hole made by the dibble, and at the same moment pressing earth
+against them with the other hand.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES.</h2>
+
+
+<p>As soon as they have broken through the soil, an enemy awaits them in
+the small black insect commonly known as the cabbage or turnip fly,
+beetle, or flea. This insect, though so small as to appear to the eye as
+a black dot, is very voracious and surprisingly active. He apparently
+feeds on the juice of the young plant, perforating it with small holes
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> size of a pin point. He is so active when disturbed that his
+motions cannot be followed by the eye, and his sense of danger is so
+keen that only by cautiously approaching the plant can he be seen at
+all. The delay of a single day in protecting the young plants from his
+ravages will sometimes be the destruction of nearly the entire piece.
+Wood ashes and air-slaked lime, sprinkled upon the plants while the
+leaves are moist from either rain or dew, afford almost complete
+protection. The lime or ashes should be applied as soon as the plant can
+be seen, for then, when they are in their tenderest condition, the fly
+is most destructive. I am not certain that the alkaline nature of these
+affords the protection, or whether a mere covering by common dust might
+not answer equally well. Should the covering be washed off by rain,
+apply it anew immediately after the rain has ceased, and so continue to
+keep the young plants covered until the third or fourth leaves are
+developed when they will have become too tough to serve as food for this
+insect enemy.</p>
+
+<p>A new enemy much dreaded by all cabbage raisers will begin to make his
+appearance about the time the flea disappears, known as the cut-worm.
+This worm is of a dusky brown color, with a dark colored head, and
+varies in size up to about two inches in length. He burrows in the
+ground just below the surface, is slow of motion, and does his
+mischievous work at night, gnawing off the young plants close at the
+surface of the ground. This enemy is hard to battle with. If the patch
+be small, these worms can be scratched out of their hiding places by
+pulling the earth carefully away the following morning for a few inches
+around the stump of the plant destroyed, when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> the rascals will usually
+be found half coiled together. Dropping a little wood ashes around the
+plants close to the stumps is one of the best of remedies; its alkaline
+properties burning his nose I presume. A tunnel of paper put around the
+stump but not touching it, and sunk just below the surface, is
+recommended as efficacious; and from the habits of the worm I should
+think it would prove so. Perpendicular holes four inches deep and an
+inch in diameter is said to catch and hold them as effectively as do the
+pit falls of Africa the wild animals. Late planted cabbage will suffer
+little or none from this pest, as he disappears about the middle of
+June. Some seasons they are remarkably numerous, making it necessary to
+replant portions of the cabbage patch several times over. I have heard
+of as many as twenty being dug at different times the same season out of
+one cabbage hill. The farmer who tilled that patch earned his dollars.
+When the cabbage has a stump the size of a pipe stem it is beyond the
+destructive ravages of the cut-worm, and should it escape stump foot has
+usually quite a period of growth free from the attacks of enemies.
+Should the season prove unpropitious and the plant be checked in its
+growth, it will be apt to become "lousy," as the farmers term it,
+referring to its condition when attacked by a small green insect known
+as aphid&aelig;, which preys upon it in myriads; when this is the case the
+leaves lose their bright green, turn of a bluish cast, the leaf stocks
+lose somewhat of their supporting powers, the leaves curl up into
+irregular shapes, and the lower layer turns black and drops off, while
+the ground under the plant appears covered with the casts or bodies of
+the insects as with a white powder. When in this condition the plants
+are in a very bad way.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Considering the circumstances under which this insect appears, usually
+in a very dry season, I hold that it is rather the product than the
+cause of disease, as with the bark louse on our apple-trees; as a remedy
+I advocate sprinkling the plants with air-slaked lime, watering, if
+possible, and a frequent and thorough stirring of the soil with the
+cultivator and hoe. The better the opportunities the cabbage have to
+develop themselves through high manuring, sufficient moisture, good
+drainage, and thorough cultivation, the less liable they are to be
+"lousy." As the season advances there will sometimes be found patches
+eaten out of the leaves, leaving nothing but the skeleton of leaf veins;
+an examination will show a band of caterpillars of a light green color
+at work, who feed in a compact mass, oftentimes a square, with as much
+regularity as though under the best of military discipline. The readiest
+way to dispose of them is to break off the leaf and crush them under
+foot. The common large red caterpillar occasionally preys on the plants,
+eating large holes in the leaves, especially about the head. When the
+cabbage plot is bordered by grass land, in seasons when grasshoppers are
+plenty, they will frequently destroy the outer rows, puncturing the
+leaves with small holes, and feeding on them until little besides their
+skeletons remain. In isolated locations rabbits and other vegetable
+feeders sometimes commit depredations. The snare and the shot-gun are
+the remedy for these.</p>
+
+<p>Other insects that prey upon the cabbage tribe, in their caterpillar
+state, are the cabbage moth, white-line, brown-eyed moth, large white
+garden butterfly, white and green veined butterfly. All of these produce
+caterpillars, which can be destroyed either by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> application of
+air-slaked lime, or by removing the leaves infested and crushing the
+intruders under foot. The cabbage-fly, father-long-legs, the millipedes,
+the blue cabbage-fly, brassy cabbage-flea, and two or three other insect
+enemies are mentioned by McIntosh as infesting the cabbage fields of
+England; also three species of fungi known as white rust, mildew, and
+<i>cylindrosporium concentricum</i>; these last are destroyed by the
+sprinkling of air-slaked lime on the leaves. In this country, along the
+sea coast of the northern section, in open-ground cultivation, there is
+comparatively but little injury done by these marauders, which are the
+cause of so much annoyance and loss to our English cousins.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>THE GREEN WORM.</h2>
+
+
+<p>A new and troublesome enemy to the cabbage tribe which has made its
+appearance within a few years, and spread rapidly over a large section
+of the country, is a green worm, <i>Anthomia brassic&aelig;</i>. This pest infests
+the cabbage tribe at all stages of its growth; it is believed to have
+been introduced into this country from Europe, by the way of Canada,
+where it was probably brought in a lot of cabbage. It is the caterpillar
+of a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. In Europe, this
+butterfly is preyed on by two or more parasites, which keep it somewhat
+in check; but its remarkably rapid increase in this country, causing a
+wail of lamentation to rise in a single season from the cabbage growers
+over areas of tens of thousands of square miles, proved that when it
+first appeared it had reached this country without its attendant
+parasites.</p>
+
+<p>Besides this green worm, there are found in Europe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> four varieties of
+caterpillar variously marked, the caterpillars from all of which make
+great havoc among the cabbage tribe.</p>
+
+<p>The most effective destroyer of this, and about every other insect pest,
+is what is known as the "Kerosene Emulsion." This is made by churning
+common kerosene with milk or soap until it is diffused through the
+liquid.</p>
+
+<p>Take one quart of kerosene oil and pour it into a pint of hot water in
+which an ounce of common soap has been dissolved; churn this briskly
+while hot (a force pump is excellent for this), and, when well mixed,
+which will be in a few minutes, it will be of a creamy consistency; mix
+one quart to ten or twelve of cold water, and spray or sprinkle it over
+the plants with a force-pump syringe or a whisk broom.</p>
+
+<p>Another remedy is pyrethrum. Use that which is fresh; either blowing it
+on in a dry state with a bellows, wherever the worm appears, or using it
+diluted, at the rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons of water;
+applying as with the kerosene emulsion. Mr. A. S. Fuller, who is good
+authority on garden matters, succeeds by applying tar-water. Place a
+couple of quarts of coal tar in a barrel and fill with water; let it
+stand forty-eight hours, then dip off, and apply with a watering-pot, or
+syringe.</p>
+
+<p>Chickens allowed to run freely among the growing plants, the hen being
+confined in a movable coop, if once attracted to them will fatten on
+them. This remedy might answer very well for small plots. Large areas in
+cabbage, in proportion to their size are, as a rule, far less injured by
+insect enemies than small patches. The worm is of late years less
+troublesome in the North than formerly.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CLUB OR STUMP FOOT AND MAGGOT.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The great dread of every cabbage grower is a disease of the branching
+roots, producing a bunchy, gland-like enlargement, known in different
+localities under the name of club foot, stump foot, underground head,
+finger and thumb. The result is a check in the ascent of the sap, which
+causes a defective vitality. There are two theories as to the origin of
+club foot; one that it is a disease caused by poor soil, bad
+cultivation, and unsuitable manures; the other that the injury is done
+by an insect enemy, <i>Curculio contractus</i>. It is held by some that the
+maggots at the root are the progeny of the cabbage flea. This I doubt.
+This insect, "piercing the skin of the root, deposits its eggs in the
+holes, lives during a time on the sap of the plant, and then escapes and
+buries itself for a time in the soil."</p>
+
+<p>If the wart, or gland-like excrescence, is seen while transplanting,
+throw all such plants away, unless your supply is short; in such case,
+carefully trim off all the diseased portions with a sharp knife. If the
+disease is in the growing crop, it will be made evident by the drooping
+of the leaves under the mid-day sun, leaves of diseased plants drooping
+more than those of healthy ones, while they will usually have a bluer
+cast. Should this disease show itself, set the cultivator going
+immediately, and follow with the hoe, drawing up fresh earth around the
+plants, which will encourage them to form new fibrous roots; should they
+do this freely, the plants will be saved, as the attacks of the insect
+are usually confined to the coarse, branching roots. Should the disease
+prevail as late as when the plants have reached half their growth,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> the
+chances are decidedly against raising a paying crop.</p>
+
+<p>When the land planted is too wet, or the manure in the hill is too
+strong, this dreaded disease is liable to be found on any soil; but it
+is most likely to manifest itself on soils that have been previously
+cropped with cabbage, turnip, or some other member of the Brassica
+family.</p>
+
+<p>Farmers find that, as a rule, <i>it is not safe to follow cabbage, ruta
+baga, or any of the Brassica family, with cabbage, unless three or four
+years have intervened between the crops</i>; and I have known an instance
+in growing the Marblehead Mammoth, where, though five years had
+intervened, that portion of the piece occupied by the previous crop
+could be distinctly marked off by the presence of club-foot.</p>
+
+<p>Singular as it may appear, old gardens are an exception to this rule.
+While it is next to impossible to raise, in old gardens, a fair turnip,
+free from club-foot, cabbages may be raised year after year on the same
+soil with impunity, or, at least, with but trifling injury from that
+disease. This seems to prove, contrary to English authority, that
+club-foot in the turnip tribe is the effect of a different cause from
+the same disease in the cabbage family.</p>
+
+<p>There is another position taken by Stephens in his "Book of the Farm,"
+which facts seem to disprove. He puts forth the theory that "all such
+diseases arise from poverty of the soil, either from want of manure when
+the soil is naturally poor, or rendered effete by over-cropping." There
+is a farm on a neck of land belonging to this town (Marblehead, Mass.),
+which has peculiar advantages for collecting sea kelp and sea moss, and
+these manures are there used most lib<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>erally, particularly in the
+cultivation of cabbage, from eight to twelve cords of rotten kelp, which
+is stronger than barn manure, and more suitable food for cabbage, being
+used to the acre. A few years ago, on a change of tenants, the new
+incumbent heavily manured a piece for cabbage, and planted it; but, as
+the season advanced, stump-foot developed in every cabbage on one side
+of the piece, while all the remainder were healthy. Upon inquiry, he
+learned that, by mistake, he had overlapped the cabbage plot of last
+season just so far as the stump-foot extended. In this instance, it
+could not have been that the cabbage suffered for want of food; for, not
+only was the piece heavily manured that year and the year previous, but
+it had been liberally manured through a series of years, and, to a large
+extent, with the manure which, of all others, the cabbage tribe delight
+in, rotten kelp and sea mosses. I have known other instances where soil,
+naturally quite strong, and kept heavily manured for a series of years,
+has shown stump-foot when cabbage were planted, with intervals of two
+and three years between. My theory is, that the <i>mere presence of the
+cabbage</i> causes stump-foot on succeeding crops grown on the same soil.
+This is proved by the fact that where a piece of land in grass, close
+adjoining a piece of growing cabbage, had been used for stripping them
+for market, when this was broken up the next season and planted to
+cabbage, stump-foot appeared only on that portion where the waste leaves
+fell the year previous. I have another instance to the same point, told
+me by an observing farmer, that, on a piece of sod land, on which he ran
+his cultivator the year previous, when turning his horse every time he
+had cultivated a row, he had stump-footed cabbage the next<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> season just
+as far as that cultivator went, dragging, of course, a few leaves and a
+little earth from the cabbage piece with it. Still, though the mere
+presence of cabbage causes stump-foot, it is a fact, that, under certain
+conditions, cabbage can be grown on the same piece of land year after
+year successfully, with but very little trouble from stump-foot. In this
+town (Marblehead), though, as I have stated, we cannot, on our farms,
+follow cabbage with cabbage, even with the highest of manuring and
+cultivation, yet in the gardens of the town, on the same kind of soil
+(and our soil is green stone and syenite, not naturally containing
+lime), there are instances where cabbage has been successfully followed
+by cabbage, on the same spot, for a quarter of a century and more. In
+the garden of an aged citizen of this town, cabbages have been raised
+<i>on the same spot of land</i> for over half a century.</p>
+
+<p>The cause of stump foot cannot, therefore, be found in the poverty of
+the soil, either from want of manure or its having been rendered effete
+from over cropping. It is evident that by long cultivation soils
+gradually have diffused through them something that proves inimical to
+the disease that produces stump foot. I will suggest as probable that
+the protection is afforded by the presence of some alkali that old
+gardens are constantly acquiring through house waste which is always
+finding its way there, particularly the slops from the sink, which
+abound in potash. This is rendered further probable from the fact given
+by Mr. Peter Henderson, that, on soils in this vicinity, naturally
+abounding in lime, cabbage can be raised year following year with almost
+immunity from stump foot. He ascribes this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> to the effects of lime in
+the soil derived from marine shells, and recommends that lime from bones
+be used to secure the same protection; but the lime that enters into the
+composition of marine shells is for the most part carbonate of lime,
+whereas the greater portion of that which enters into the composition of
+bones is phosphate of lime. Common air-slaked lime is almost pure
+carbonate of lime, and hence comes nearer to the composition of marine
+shells than lime from bones, and, being much cheaper, would appear to be
+preferable.</p>
+
+<p>An able farmer told me that by using wood ashes liberally he could
+follow with cabbage the next season on the same piece. One experiment of
+my own in this direction did not prove successful, where ashes at the
+rate of two hundred bushels to the acre were used; and I have an
+impression that I have read of a like want of success after quite
+liberal applications of lime. In a more recent experiment, on a gravelly
+loam on one of my seed farms in Middleton, Mass., where two hundred
+bushels of unleached ashes were used per acre, three-fourths broadcast,
+I have had complete success, raising as good a crop as I ever grew the
+second year on the same land, without a single stump foot on half an
+acre. Still, it remains evident, I think, that nature prevents stump
+foot by the diffusing of alkalies through the soil, and I mistrust that
+the reason why we sometimes fail with the same remedies is that we have
+them mixed, rather than intimately combined, with the particles of soil.</p>
+
+<p>The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by a maggot, though
+there is no club root present. A remedy for this is said to be in the
+burying of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> small piece of bi-sulphide of carbon within a few inches
+of the diseased plant. I have never tried it, but know that there is no
+better insecticide.</p>
+
+<p>As I have stated under another head, an attack of club foot is almost
+sure to follow the use of pure hog manure, whether it be used broadcast
+or in the hill. About ten years ago I ventured to use hog manure nearly
+pure, spread broadcast and ploughed in. Stump foot soon showed itself. I
+cultivated and hoed the cabbage thoroughly; then, as they still appeared
+sickly, I had the entire piece thoroughly dug over with a six-tined
+fork, pushing it as deep or deeper into the soil than the plough had
+gone, to bring up the manure to the surface; but all was of no use; I
+lost the entire crop. Yet, on another occasion, stable manure on which
+hogs had been kept at the rate of two hogs to each animal, gave me one
+of the finest lots of cabbage I ever raised.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CARE OF THE GROWING CROP.</h2>
+
+
+<p>As soon as the young plants are large enough to be seen with the naked
+eye, in with the cultivator and go and return once in each row, being
+careful not to have any lumps of earth cover the plants. Follow the
+cultivator immediately with the hoe, loosening the soil about the hills.
+The old rule with farmers is to cultivate and hoe cabbage three times
+during their growth, and it is a rule that works very well where the
+crop is in good growing condition; but if the manure is deficient, the
+soil bakes, or the plants show signs of disease, then cultivate and hoe
+once or twice extra. "Hoe cabbage when wet," is another farmer's axiom.
+In a small garden patch the soil may be stirred among the plants as
+often as may be con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>venient: it can do no harm; cabbages relish tending,
+though it is not necessary to do this every day, as one enthusiastic
+cultivator evidently thought, who declared that, by hoeing his cabbages
+every morning, he had succeeded in raising capital heads.</p>
+
+<p>If a season of drouth occurs when the cabbages have begun to head, the
+heads will harden prematurely; and then should a heavy rain fall, they
+will start to make a new growth, and the consequence will be many of
+them will split. Split or bursted cabbage are a source of great loss to
+the farmer, and this should be carefully guarded against by going
+frequently over the piece when the heads are setting, and starting every
+cabbage that appears to be about mature. A stout-pronged potato hoe
+applied just under the leaves, and a pull given sufficient to start the
+roots on one side, will accomplish what is needed. If cabbage that have
+once been started seem still inclined to burst, start the roots on the
+other side. Instead of a hoe they may be pushed over with the foot, or
+with the hand. Frequently, heads that are thus started will grow to
+double the size they had attained when about to burst. There is a marked
+difference in this habit in different varieties of cabbage. I find that
+the Hard-heading is less inclined to burst its head than any of the
+kinds I raise.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>MARKETING THE CROP.</h2>
+
+
+<p>When preparing for market cabbages that have been kept over winter,
+particularly if they are marketed late in the season, the edges of the
+leaves of some of the heads will be found to be more or less decayed; do
+not strip such leaves off, but with a sharp knife cut clean off the
+decayed edges. The earlier the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> variety the sooner it needs to be
+marketed, for, as a rule, cabbages push their shoots in the spring in
+the order of their earliness. If they have not been sufficiently
+protected from the cold, the stumps will often rot off close to the
+head, and sometimes the rot will include the part of the stump that
+enters the head. If the watery-looking portion can be cut clean out, the
+head is salable; otherwise it will be apt to have an unpleasant flavor
+when cooked. As a rule, cabbages for marketing should be trimmed into as
+compact a form as possible; the heads should be cut off close to the
+stump, leaving two or three spare leaves to protect them. They may be
+brought out of the piece in bushel baskets, and be piled on the wagon as
+high as a hay stack, being kept in place by a stout canvas sheet tied
+closely down. In the markets of Boston, in the fall of the year, they
+are usually sold at a price agreed upon by the hundred head; this will
+vary not only with the size and quality of the cabbage, but with the
+season, the crop, and the quality in market on that particular day.
+Within a few years I have known the range of price for the Stone Mason
+or Fottler cabbage, equal in size and quality, to be from $3 to $17 per
+hundred; for the Marblehead Mammoth from $6 to $25 per hundred. Cabbages
+brought to market in the spring are usually sold by weight or by the
+barrel, at from $1 to $4 per hundred pounds.</p>
+
+<p>The earliest cabbages carried to market sometimes bring extraordinary
+prices; and this has created a keen competition among market gardeners,
+each striving to produce the earliest, a difference of a week in
+marketing oftentimes making a difference of one half in the profits of
+the crop. Capt. Wyman, who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> controlled the Early Wyman cabbage for
+several years, sold some seasons thirty thousand heads if my memory
+serves me, at pretty much his own price. As a rule, it is the very early
+and the very late cabbages that sell most profitably. Should the market
+for very late cabbages prove a poor one, the farmer is not compelled to
+sell them, no matter at what sacrifice, as would be the case a month
+earlier; he can pit them, and so keep them over to the early spring
+market which is almost always a profitable one. In marketing in spring
+it should be the aim to make sale before the crops of spring greens
+become plenty, as these replace the cabbage on many tables. By starting
+cabbage in hot beds a crop of celery or squashes may follow them the
+same season.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER.</h2>
+
+
+<p>In the comparatively mild climate of England, where there are but few
+days in the winter months that the ground remains frozen to any depth,
+the hardy cabbage grows all seasons of the year, and turnips left during
+winter standing in the ground are fed to sheep by yarding them over the
+different portions of the field. With the same impunity, in the southern
+portion of our own country, the cabbages are left unprotected during the
+winter months; and, in the warmer portions of the South they are
+principally a winter crop. As we advance farther North, we find that the
+degree of protection needed is afforded by running the plough along each
+side of the rows, turning the earth against them, and dropping a little
+litter on top of the heads. As we advance still farther northward, we
+find sufficient protection given by but little more than a rough roof of
+boards thrown over the heads,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> after removing the cabbages to a
+sheltered spot and setting them in the ground as near together as they
+will stand without being in contact, with the tops of the heads just
+level with the surface.</p>
+
+<p>In the latitude of central New England, cabbages are not secure from
+injury from frost with less than a foot of earth thrown over the heads.
+In mild winters a covering of half that depth will be sufficient; but as
+we have no prophets to foretell our mild winters, a foot of earth is
+safer than six inches. Where eel-grass can be procured along the sea
+coast, or there is straw or coarse hay to spare, the better plan is to
+cover with about six inches of earth, and when this is frozen
+sufficiently hard to bear a man's weight (which is usually about
+Thanksgiving time), to scatter over it the eel-grass, forest leaves,
+straw, or coarse hay, to the depth of another six inches. Eel-grass,
+which grows on the sandy flats under the ocean along the coast, is
+preferred to any other covering as it lays light and keeps in dead air
+which is a non-conductor of heat. Forest leaves are next in value; but
+snow and water are apt to get among these and freezing solid destroy
+most of their protecting value. When I use forest leaves, I cover them
+with coarse hay, and add branches of trees to prevent its being blown
+away. In keeping cabbages through the winter, three general facts should
+be borne in mind, viz.: that repeated freezing and thawing will cause
+them to rot; that excessive moisture or warmth will also cause rot;
+while a dry air, such as is found in most cellars, will abstract
+moisture from the leaves, injure the flavor of the cabbage, and cause
+some of the heads to wilt, and the harder heads to waste. In the Middle
+States we have mostly to fear the wet of winter, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> the plan for
+keeping for that section should, therefore, have particularly in view
+protection from moisture, while in the Northern States we have to fear
+the cold of winter, and, consequently, our plan must there have
+specially in view protection from cold.</p>
+
+<p>When storing for winter, select a dry day, if possible, sufficiently
+long after rainy weather to have the leaves free of water,&mdash;otherwise
+they will spout it on to you, and make you the wettest and muddiest
+scarecrow ever seen off a farm,&mdash;then strip all the outer leaves from
+the head but the two last rows, which are needed to protect it. This may
+be readily done by drawing in these two rows toward the head with the
+left hand, while a blow is struck against the remaining leaves with the
+fist of the right hand. Next pull up the cabbages, which, if they are of
+the largest varieties, may be expeditiously done by a potato hoe. If
+they are not intended for seed purposes, stand the heads down and stumps
+up until the earth on the roots is somewhat dry, when it can be mostly
+removed by sharp blows against the stump given with a stout stick. In
+loading do not bruise the heads. Select the place for keeping them in a
+dry, level location, and, if in the North, a southern exposure, where no
+water can stand and there can be no wash. To make the pit, run the
+plough along from two to four furrows, and throw out the soil with the
+shovel to the requisite depth, which may be from six to ten inches; now,
+if the design is to roof over the pit, the cabbages may be put in as
+thickly as they will stand; if the heads are solid they may be either
+head up or stump up, and two layers deep; but if the heads are soft,
+then heads up and one deep, and not crowded very close, that they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> may
+have room to make heads during the winter. Having excavated an area
+twelve by six feet, set a couple of posts in the ground midway at each
+end, projecting about five feet above the surface; connect the two by a
+joist secured firmly to the top of each, and against this, extending to
+the ground just outside the pit, lay slabs, boards or poles, and cover
+the roof that will be thus formed with six inches of straw or old hay,
+and, if in the North, throw six or eight inches of earth over this.
+Leave one end open for entrance and to air the pit, closing the other
+end with straw or hay. In the North close both ends, opening one of them
+occasionally in mild weather.</p>
+
+<p>When cabbages are pitted on a large scale this system of roofing is too
+costly and too cumbersome. A few thousand may be kept in a cool root
+cellar, by putting one layer heads down, and standing another layer
+heads up between these. Within a few years farmers in the vicinity of
+Lowell, Mass., have preserved their cabbages over winter, on a large
+scale, by a new method, with results that have been very satisfactory.
+They cut off that portion of the stump which contains the root; strip
+off most of the outer leaves, and then pile the cabbages in piles, six
+or eight feet high, in double rows, with boards to keep them apart, in
+cool cellars, which are built half out of ground. The temperature of
+these, by the judicious opening and closing of windows, is kept as
+nearly as possibly at the freezing point. The common practice in the
+North, when many thousands are to be stored for winter and spring sales,
+is to select a southern exposure having the protection of a fence or
+wall, if practicable, and, turning furrows with the plough, throw out
+the earth with shovels, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> the depth of about six inches; the cabbages,
+stripped as before described, are then stored closely together, and
+straw or coarse hay is thrown over them to the depth of a foot or
+eighteen inches. Protected thus they are accessible for market at any
+time during the winter. If the design is to keep them over till spring,
+the covering may be first six inches of earth, to be followed, as cold
+increases, with six inches of straw, litter, or eel-grass. This latter
+is my own practice, with the addition of leaving a ridge of earth
+between every three or four rows, to act as a support and keep the
+cabbages from falling over. I am, also, careful to bring the cabbages to
+the pit as soon as pulled, with the earth among the roots as little
+disturbed as possible; and, should the roots appear to be dry, to throw
+a little earth over them after the cabbages are set in the trench. The
+few loose leaves remaining will prevent the earth from sifting down
+between the heads, and the air chambers thus made answer a capital
+purpose in keeping out the cold, as air is one of the best
+non-conductors of heat. It is said that muck-soil, when well drained, is
+an excellent one to bury cabbage in, as its antiseptic properties
+preserve them from decay. If the object is to preserve the cabbage for
+market purposes only, the heads may be buried in the same position in
+which they grew, or they may be inverted, the stump having no value in
+itself; but if for seed purposes, they must be buried head up, as,
+whatever injures the stump, spoils the whole cabbage for that object. I
+store between ten and fifty thousand heads annually to raise seed from,
+and carry them through till planting time with a degree of success
+varying from a loss, for seed purposes, of from one-half to thirty-three
+per cent. of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> number buried; but, if handled early in spring, many
+that would be worthless for seed purposes, could be profitably marketed.
+A few years since, I buried a lot with a depth varying from one to four
+feet, and found, on uncovering them in the spring, that all had kept,
+and apparently equally well. In the winter of 1868, excessively cold
+weather came very early and unexpectedly, before my cabbage plot had
+received its full covering of litter. The consequence was, the frost
+penetrated so deep that it froze through the heads into the stumps, and,
+when spring came, a large portion of them came out spoiled for seed
+purposes, though most of them sold readily in the market. A cabbage is
+rendered worthless for seed when the frost strikes through the stump
+where it joins the head; and though, to the unpractised eye, all may
+appear right, yet, if the heart of the stump has a water-soaked
+appearance on being cut into, it will almost uniformly decay just below
+the head in the course of a few weeks after having been planted out. If
+there is a probability that the stumps have been frozen through, examine
+the plot early, and, if it proves so, sell the cabbages for eating
+purposes, no matter how sound and handsome the heads look; if you delay
+until time for planting out the cabbage for seed, meanwhile much waste
+will occur. I once lost heavily in Marblehead Mammoth cabbage by having
+them buried on a hill-side with a gentle slope. In the course of the
+winter they fell over on their sides, which let down the soil from
+above, and, closing the air-chambers between them, brought the huge
+heads into a mass, and the result was, a large proportion of them rotted
+badly. At another time, I lost a whole plot by burying them in soil
+between ledges of rock, which kept<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> the ground very wet when spring
+opened; the consequence was, every cabbage rotted. If the heads are
+frozen more than two or three leaves deep before they are pitted they
+will not come out so handsome in the spring; but cabbages are very
+hardy, and they readily rally from a little freezing, either in the open
+ground or after they are buried, though it is best, when they are frozen
+in the open ground, to let them remain there until the frost comes out
+before removing them, if it can be done without too much risk of
+freezing still deeper, as they handle better then, for, being tougher,
+the leaves are not so easily broken. If the soil is frozen to any depth
+before the cabbages are removed, the roots will be likely to be injured
+in the pulling, a matter of no consequence if the cabbages are intended
+for market, but of some importance if they are for seed raising. Large
+cabbages are more easily pulled by giving them a little twist; if for
+seed purposes, this should be avoided, as it injures the stump. A small
+lot, that are to be used within a month, can be kept hung up by the
+stump in the cellar of a dwelling-house; they will keep in this way
+until spring; but the outer leaves will dry and turn yellow, the heads
+shrink some in size, and be apt to lose in quality. Some practise
+putting clean chopped straw in the bottom of a box or barrel, wetting
+it, and covering with heads trimmed ready for cooking, adding again wet
+straw and a layer of heads, so alternating until the barrel or box is
+filled, after which it is headed up and kept in a cool place, at, or a
+little below, the freezing point. No doubt this is an excellent way to
+preserve a small lot, as it has the two essentials to success, keeping
+them cool and moist.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of burying them in an upright position,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> after a deep furrow has
+been made the cabbages are sometimes laid on their sides two deep, with
+their roots at the bottom of the furrow, and covered with earth in this
+position. Where the winter climate is so mild that a shallow covering
+will be sufficient protection, this method saves much labor.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER.</h2>
+
+
+<p>When a piece of drumhead has been planted very late (sometimes they are
+planted on ground broken up after a crop of hay has been taken from it
+the same season), there will be a per cent. of the plants when the
+growing season is over that have not headed. With care almost all of
+these can be made to head during the winter. A few years ago I selected
+my seed heads from a large piece and then sold the first "pick" of what
+remained at ten cents a head, the second at eight cents, and so down
+until all were taken for which purchasers were willing to give one cent
+each. Of course, after such a thorough selling out as this, there was
+not much in the shape of a head left. I now had what remained pulled up
+and carted away, doubtful whether to feed them to the cows or to set
+them out to head up during winter. As they were very healthy plants in
+the full vigor of growth, having rudimentary heads just gathering in, I
+determined to set them out. I had a pit dug deep enough to bring the
+tops of the heads, when the plants were stood upright as they grew, just
+above the surface of the ground; I then stood the cabbages in without
+breaking off any of the leaves, keeping the roots well covered with
+earth, having the plants far enough apart not to crowd each other very
+much, though so near as to press<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> somewhat together the two outer
+circles of leaves. They were allowed to remain in this condition until
+it was cold enough to freeze the ground an inch in thickness, when a
+covering of coarse hay was thrown over them a couple of inches thick,
+and, as the cold increased in intensity, this covering was increased to
+ten or twelve inches in thickness, the additions being made at two or
+three intervals. In the spring I uncovered the lot, and found that
+nearly every plant had headed up. I sold the heads for four cents a
+pound; and these refuse cabbages averaged me about ten cents a head,
+which was the price my best heads brought me in the fall. I have seen
+thousands of cabbages in one lot, the refuse of several acres that had
+been planted on sod land broken up the same season a crop of hay had
+been taken from it, made to head by this course, and sold in the spring
+for $1.30 per barrel. When there is a large lot of such cabbages the
+most economical way to plant them will be in furrows made by the plough.
+Most of the bedding used in covering them, if it be as coarse as it
+ought to be to admit as much air as possible while it should not mat
+down on the cabbages, will, with care in drying, be again available for
+covering another season, or remain suitable for bedding purposes. These
+"winter-headed" cabbages, as they are called in the market, are not so
+solid and have more shrinkage to them than those headed in the open
+ground; hence they will not bear transportation as well, neither will
+they keep as long when exposed to the air. The effect of wintering
+cabbage by burying in the soil is to make them exceedingly tender for
+table use.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>If a piece of land is planted with seed grown from two heads of cabbage
+the product will bear a striking resemblance to the two parent cabbages,
+with a third variety which will combine the characteristics of these
+two, yet the resemblance will be somewhat modified at times by a little
+more manure, a little higher culture, a little better location, and the
+addition of an individuality that particular vegetables occasionally
+take upon themselves which we designate by the word "sport." The
+"sports" when they occur are fixed and perpetuated with remarkable
+readiness in the cabbage family, as is proved by a great number of
+varieties in cultivation, which are the numerous progeny of one
+ancestor. The catalogues of the English and French seedsmen contain long
+lists of varieties, many of which (and this is especially true of the
+early kinds) are either the same variety under a different name or are
+different "strains" of the same variety produced by the careful
+selections of prominent market gardeners through a series of years.</p>
+
+<p>Every season I experiment with foreign and American varieties of cabbage
+to learn the characteristics of the different kinds, their comparative
+earliness, size, shape, and hardness of head, length of stump, and such
+other facts as would prove of value to market gardeners. There is one
+fact that every careful experimenter soon learns, that one season will
+not teach all that can be known relative to a variety, and that a number
+of specimens of each kind must be raised to enable one to make a fair
+comparison. It is amusing to read the dicta which appear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> in the
+agricultural press from those who have made but a single experiment with
+some vegetable; they proclaim more after a single trial than a cautious
+experimenter would dare to declare after years spent in careful
+observation. The year 1869 I raised over sixty varieties of cabbage,
+importing nearly complete suites of those advertised by the leading
+English and French seed houses, and collecting the principal kinds
+raised in this country. In the year 1888, I grew eighty-five different
+varieties and strains of cabbages and cauliflowers. I do not propose
+describing all these in this treatise or their comparative merits; of
+some of them I have yet something to learn, but I will endeavor to
+introduce with my description such notes as I think will prove of value
+to my fellow farmers and market gardeners.</p>
+
+<p>I will here say in general of the class of early cabbages, that most of
+them have elongated heads between ovoid and conical in form. They appear
+to lack in this country the sweetness and tenderness that characterize
+some varieties of our drumhead, and, consequently, in the North when the
+drumhead enters the market there is but a limited call for them.</p>
+
+<p>It may be well here to note a fundamental distinction between the
+drumhead cabbage of England and those of this country. In England the
+drumhead class are almost wholly raised to feed to stock. I venture the
+conjecture that owing in part, or principally, to the fact European
+gardeners have never had the motive, and, consequently, have never
+developed the full capacity of the drumhead as exampled by the fine
+varieties raised in this country. The securing of sorts reliable for
+heading being with them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> a matter of secondary consideration, seed is
+raised from stumps or any refuse heads that may be standing when spring
+comes round. For this reason English drumhead cabbage seed is better
+suited to raise a mass of leaves than heads, and always disappoints our
+American farmers who buy it because it is cheap with the expectation of
+raising cabbage for market. English-grown drumhead cabbage seed is
+utterly worthless for use in this country except to raise greens or
+collards.</p>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<p>The following are foreign varieties that are accepted in this country as
+standards, and for years have been more or less extensively cultivated:
+<span class="smcap">Early York</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Oxheart</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Winnigstadt</span>,
+<span class="smcap">Red Dutch</span>, <span class="smcap">Red Drumhead</span>. In my experience as a seed
+dealer, the Sugar Loaf and Oxheart are losing ground in the farming
+community, the Early Jersey Wakefield having, to a large extent,
+replaced them.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early York.</b> Heads nearly ovoid, rather soft, with few waste leaves
+surrounding them, which are of a bright green color. Reliable for
+heading. Stump rather short. Plant two feet by eighteen inches. This
+cabbage has been cultivated in England over a hundred years. <span class="smcap">Little
+Pixie</span> with me is earlier than Early York, as reliable for heading,
+heads much harder, and is of better flavor; the heads do not grow quite
+as large.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Oxheart.</b> Heads nearly egg-shaped, small, hard, few waste leaves,
+stumps short. A little later than Early York. Have the rows two feet
+apart, and the plants eighteen inches apart in the row.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Winnigstadt.</b> (A German cabbage.) Heads nearly conical in shape,
+having usually a twist of leaf<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> at the top; larger than Oxheart, are
+harder than any of the early oblong heading cabbages; stumps middling
+short. Matures about ten days later than Early York. The Winnigstadt is
+remarkably reliable for heading, being not excelled in this respect when
+the seed has been raised with care, by any cabbage grown. It is a
+capital sort for early market outside our large cities, where the very
+early kinds are not so eagerly craved. It is so reliable for heading,
+that it will often make fine heads where other sorts fail; and I would
+advise all who have not succeeded in their efforts to grow cabbage, to
+try this before giving up their attempts. It is raised by some for
+winter use, and where the drumheads are not so successfully raised, I
+would advise my farmer friends to try the Winnigstadt, as the heads are
+so hard that they keep without much waste. Have rows two feet apart, and
+plant twenty inches to two feet apart in the rows.</p>
+
+<p><b>Red Dutch.</b> Heads nearly conical, medium sized, hard, of a very deep
+red; outer leaves numerous, and not so red as the head, being somewhat
+mixed with green; stump rather long. This cabbage is usually planted too
+late; it requires nearly the whole season to mature. It is used for
+pickling, or cut up fine as a salad, served with vinegar and pepper.
+This is a very tender cabbage, and, were it not for its color, would be
+an excellent sort to boil; to those who have a mind to eat it with their
+eyes shut, this objection will not apply.</p>
+
+<p><b>Red Drumhead.</b> Like the preceding, with the exception that the heads
+grow round, or nearly so, are harder, and of double the size. It is very
+difficult to raise seed from this cabbage in this country. I am
+acquainted with five trials, made in as many different<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> years, two of
+which I made myself, and all were nearly utter failures, the yield, when
+the hardest heads were selected, being at about the rate of two great
+spoonfuls of seed from every twenty cabbages. French seed-growers are
+more successful, otherwise this seed would have to sell at a far higher
+figure in the market than any other sort.</p>
+
+<p><b>The Little Pixie</b> has much to recommend it, in earliness, quality,
+reliability for heading, and hardness of the head; earlier than Early
+York, though somewhat smaller.</p>
+
+<p>Among those that deserve to be heartily welcomed and grow in favor, are
+the <span class="smcap">Early Ulm Savoy</span> (for engraving and description of which see
+under head of Savoy), and the <span class="smcap">St. Dennis Drumhead</span>, a late,
+short-stumped sort, setting a large, round, very solid head, as large,
+but harder, than Premium Flat Dutch. The leaves are of a bluish-green,
+and thicker than those of most varieties of drumhead. Our brethren in
+Canada think highly of this cabbage, and if we want to try a new
+drumhead, I will speak a good word for this one.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Schweinfurt</b>, or <b>Schweinfurt Quintal</b>, is an excellent early
+drumhead for family use; the heads range in size from ten to eighteen
+inches in diameter, varying with the conditions of cultivation more than
+any other cabbage I am acquainted with. They are flattish round, weigh
+from three to nine pounds when well grown, are very symmetrical in
+shape, standing apart from the surrounding leaves. They are not solid,
+though they have the finished appearance that solidity gives; they are
+remarkably tender, as though blanched, and of very fine flavor. It is
+among the earliest of drumheads, maturing at about the same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> time as the
+Early Winnigstadt. As an early drumhead for the family garden, it has no
+superior; and where the market is near, and does not insist that a
+cabbage head must be hard to be good, it has proved a very profitable
+market sort.</p>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<p>The following are either already standard American varieties of cabbage,
+or such as are likely soon to become so; very possibly there are two or
+three other varieties or strains that deserve to be included in the
+list. I give all that have proved to be first class in my locality:
+<span class="smcap">Early Wakefield</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Wyman</span>, <span class="smcap">Early Summer</span>,
+<span class="smcap">All Seasons</span>, <span class="smcap">Hard Heading</span>, <span class="smcap">Succession</span>,
+<span class="smcap">Warren</span>, <span class="smcap">Vandergaw</span>, <span class="smcap">Peerless</span>, <span class="smcap">Newark</span>,
+<span class="smcap">Flat Dutch</span>, <span class="smcap">Premium Flat Dutch</span>, <span class="smcap">Stone Mason</span>,
+<span class="smcap">Large Late Drumhead</span>, <span class="smcap">Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead</span>,
+<span class="smcap">American Green Glazed</span>, <span class="smcap">Fottler's Drumhead</span>, <span class="smcap">Bergen
+Drumhead</span>, <span class="smcap">Drumhead Savoy</span>, and <span class="smcap">American Green Globe
+Savoy</span>. All of these varieties, as I have previously stated, are but
+improvements of foreign kinds; but they are so far improved through
+years of careful selection and cultivation, that, as a rule, they appear
+quite distinct from the originals when grown side by side with them, and
+this distinction is more or less recognized, in both English and
+American catalogues, by the adjective "American" or "English" being
+added after varieties bearing the same name.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img53-1.jpg" alt="Early Wakefield." title="Early Wakefield." /></div>
+<p><b>Early Wakefield</b>, sometimes called <b>Early Jersey Wakefield</b>. Heads
+mostly nearly conical in shape but sometimes nearly round, of good size
+for early, very reliable for heading; stumps short. A very popular early
+cabbage in the markets of Boston and New York. Plant two and a half feet
+by two feet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> There are two strains of this cabbage, one a little later
+and larger than the other.</p>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class="figright"><img src="images/img53-2.jpg" alt="Early Wyman." title="Early Wyman." /></div>
+<p><b>Early Wyman.</b> This cabbage is named after Capt. Wyman, of Cambridge,
+the originator. Like Early Wakefield the heads are usually somewhat
+conical, but sometimes nearly round; in structure they are compact. In
+earliness it ranks about with the Early Wakefield, and making heads of
+double the size, it has a high value as an early cabbage. Capt. Wyman
+had entire control of this cabbage until within the past few years, and,
+consequently, has held Boston Market in his own hands, to the chagrin of
+his fellow market gardeners, raising some seasons as many as thirty
+thousand heads. Have the rows from two to two and a half feet apart, and
+the plants from twenty to twenty-four inches apart in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> the row. Crane's
+Early is a cross between the Wyman and Wakefield, intermediate in size
+and earliness.</p>
+
+<div class="figright"><img src="images/img54.jpg" alt="Premium Flat Dutch." title="Premium Flat Dutch." /></div>
+<p><b>Premium Flat Dutch.</b> Large, late variety; heads either round or flat,
+on the top (varying with different strains); rather hard; color bluish
+green; leaves around heads rather numerous; towards the close of the
+season, the edge of some of the exterior leaves and the top of the heads
+assume a purple cast. The edges of the exterior leaves, and of the two
+or three that make the outside of the head, are quite ruffled, so that
+when grown side by side with Stone Mason, this distinction between the
+habit of growth of the two varieties is noticeable at quite a distance.
+Stumps short; reliable for heading. Have the rows three feet apart, and
+the plants from two and a half to three feet apart in the rows. This
+cabbage is very widely cultivated, and, in many respects, is an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+excellent sort to raise for late marketing. There are several strains of
+it catalogued by different seedsmen under various names, such as Sure
+Head, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<div class="figright"><img src="images/img55.jpg" alt="Stone Mason." title="Stone Mason." /></div>
+
+<p><b>Stone Mason.</b> An improvement on the Mason, which cabbage was selected
+by Mr. John Mason of Marblehead, from a number of varieties of cabbage
+that came from a lot of seed purchased and planted as Savoys. Mr. John
+Stone afterwards improved upon the Mason cabbage, by increasing the size
+of the heads. Different growers differ in their standard of a Stone
+Mason cabbage, in earliness and lateness, and in the size, form, and
+hardness of the head. But all these varieties agree in the
+characteristics of being very reliable for heading, in having heads
+which are large, very hard, very tender, rich and sweet; short stumps,
+and few waste leaves. The color of the leaves varies from a bluish green
+to a pea-green, and the structure from nearly smooth to much blistered.
+In their color and blistering some specimens have almost a Savoy cast.
+The heads of the best varieties of Stone Mason range in weight from six
+to twenty-five pounds, the difference turning mostly on soil, manure,
+and cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>The Stone Mason is an earlier cabbage than Premium Flat Dutch, has fewer
+waste leaves, and side by side, under high cultivation, grows to an
+equal or larger size, while it makes heads that are decidedly harder and
+sweeter. These cabbages are equally reliable for heading. I am inclined
+to the opinion that under poor cultivation the Premium Flat Dutch will
+do somewhat better than the Stone Mason.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Until the introduction of Fottler's Drumhead it was the standard
+drumhead cabbage in the markets of Boston and other large cities of the
+North. Have the rows three feet apart, and the plants from two to three
+feet apart in the row.</p>
+
+<p><b>Large Late Drumhead.</b> Heads large, round, sometimes flattened at the
+top, close and firm; loose leaves numerous; stems short; reliable for
+heading, hardy, and a good keeper. The name "Large Late Drumhead"
+includes varieties raised by several seedsmen in this country, all of
+which resemble each other in the above characteristics, and differ in
+but minor points. Have rows three feet apart, and plants from two and a
+half to three feet apart in the row.</p>
+
+<p><b>Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.</b> This is the largest of the cabbage
+family, having sometimes been grown to weigh over ninety pounds to the
+plant. It originated in Marblehead, Mass., being produced by Mr. Alley,
+probably from the Mason, by years of high cultivation and careful
+selection of seed stock. I introduced this cabbage and the Stone Mason
+to the general public many years ago, and it has been pretty thoroughly
+disseminated throughout the United States. Heads varying in shape
+between hemispherical and spherical, with but few waste leaves
+surrounding them; size very large, varying from fifteen to twenty inches
+in diameter, and, in some specimens, they have grown to the
+extraordinary dimensions of twenty-four inches. In good soil, and with
+the highest culture, this variety has attained an average weight of
+thirty pounds by the acre. Quality, when well grown, remarkably sweet
+and tender, as would be inferred from the rapidity of its growth.
+Culti<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>vate in rows four feet apart, and allow four feet between the
+plants in the rows. Sixty tons of this variety have been raised from a
+single acre.</p>
+
+<p><b>American Green Glazed.</b> Heads loose, though rather large, with a great
+body of waste leaves surrounding them; quality poor; late; stump long.
+This cabbage was readily distinguished among all the varieties in my
+experimental plot by the deep, rich green of the leaves, with their
+bright lustre as though varnished. It is grown somewhat extensively in
+the South, as it is believed not to be so liable to injury from insects
+as other varieties. Plant two and a half feet apart each way. I would
+advise my Southern friends to try the merits of other kinds before
+adopting this poor affair. I know, through my correspondence, that the
+Mammoth has done well as far South as Louisiana and Cuba, and the
+Fottler, in many sections of the South, has given great satisfaction.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img57.jpg" alt="Fottler's Early Drumhead." title="Fottler's Early Drumhead." /></div>
+<p><b>Fottler's Early Drumhead.</b> Several years ago a Boston seedsman imported
+a lot of cabbage seed from Europe, under the name of Early Brunswick
+Short Stemmed. It proved to be a large heading and very early Drumhead.
+The heads were from eight to eighteen inches in diameter nearly flat,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+hard, sweet, and tender in quality; few waste leaves; stump short. In
+earliness it was about a fortnight ahead of the Stone Mason. It was so
+much liked by the market gardeners that the next season he ordered a
+larger quantity; but the second importation, though ordered and sent
+under the same name, proved to be a different and inferior kind, and the
+same result followed one or two other importations. The two gardeners
+who received seed of the first importation brought to market a fine,
+large Drumhead, ten days or a fortnight ahead of their fellows. The seed
+of the true stock was eagerly bought up by the Boston market gardeners,
+most of it at <i>five dollars an ounce</i>. After an extensive trial on a
+large scale by the market farmers around Boston, and by farmers in
+various parts of the United States, Fot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>tler's Cabbage has given great
+satisfaction, and become a universal favorite, and when once known it,
+and especially the improved strain of it, known as Deep Head, is fast
+replacing some of the old varieties of Drumhead. Very reliable for
+heading.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img58.jpg" alt="Vandergaw Cabbage." title="Vandergaw Cabbage." /></div>
+<p><b>Vandergaw Cabbage.</b> This new Long Island Cabbage must be classed as A
+No. 1 for the midsummer and late market. It is as sure to head as the
+Succession, and has some excellent characteristics in common.</p>
+
+<p>It makes large, green heads, hard, tender, and crisp. This is an
+acquisition.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figright"><img src="images/img59.jpg" alt="The Warren Cabbage." title="The Warren Cabbage." /></div>
+<p><b>The Warren Cabbage.</b> This first-class cabbage is closely allied to, but
+an improvement on, the old Mason Cabbage of twenty-five years ago. It
+makes a head deep, round, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> very hard, the outer leaves wrapping it
+over very handsomely. In reliability for heading no cabbage surpasses
+it; a field of them when in their prime is as pretty a sight as a
+cabbage man would wish to see. It comes in as early as some strains of
+Fottler, and a little earlier than others. A capital sort to succeed the
+Early Summer. The heads being very thick through, and nearly round, make
+it an excellent sort to carry through the winter, as it "peels" well, as
+cabbage-growers say. Ten inches in diameter, in size it is just about
+right for profitable marketing. A capital sort, exceedingly popular
+among market-man in this vicinity.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img60.jpg" alt="Early Bleichfeld Cabbage." title="Early Bleichfeld Cabbage." /></div>
+
+<p><b>Early Bleichfeld Cabbage.</b> I find the Bleichfeld to be among the
+earliest of the large, hard-heading Drumheads, maturing earlier than the
+Fottler's Brunswick. The heads are large, very solid, tender when
+cooked, and of excellent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> flavor. The color is a lighter green than most
+varieties and it is as reliable for heading as any cabbage I have ever
+grown. The above engraving I have had made from a photograph of a
+specimen grown on my grounds.</p>
+<p><br /></p>
+<div class="figright"><img src="images/img61.jpg" alt="Danish Drumhead Cabbage." title="Danish Drumhead Cabbage." /></div>
+<p><b>Danish Drumhead Cabbage.</b> In 1879, Mr. Edward Abelgoord wrote me from
+Canada, that he raised a large Drumhead Cabbage, the seed of which was
+brought from Denmark, which was the best kind of cabbage that he had
+seen in that latitude (46&deg;), being very valuable for the extreme North.
+It was earlier than Fottler's Drumhead, and made large, flat heads, of
+excellent flavor, and was so reliable for heading. I raised a field of
+this new cabbage, and it proved a large, flat, early Drumhead, very
+reliable for heading.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img62.jpg" alt="The Reynolds Early Cabbage." title="The Reynolds Early Cabbage." /></div>
+<p><b>The Reynolds Early Cabbage.</b> In the year 1875, Mr. Franklin Reynolds,
+of this town, crossed the Cannon-Ball Cabbage on the Schweinfurt
+Quintal, by carefully transferring the pollen of the former on the
+latter, the stamens having first been removed, and immediately tying
+muslin around the impregnated blossoms to keep away all insects. The
+results were a few ripe seeds. These were carefully saved and planted
+the next season, when the product showed the characteristics of the two
+parents. The best heads were selected from the lot, and, from these,
+seeds were raised. Several selections were made of the choicest heads
+from year to year; and I now have the pleasure of introducing the
+results, <i>a new cabbage which combines the good qualities of both its
+parents</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The flavor of this new cabbage is rich, tender, and sweet, being
+superior to the general Drumhead class,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> making it a very superior
+variety for family use, and also for marketing when there is not a long
+transportation. None of the scores of varieties I have ever grown has a
+shorter stump than this; the heads appear to rest directly on the
+ground, and no one is surer to head.</p>
+
+<div class="figright"><img src="images/img63.jpg" alt="All-Seasons Cabbage." title="All-Seasons Cabbage." /></div>
+<p><b>All-Seasons Cabbage.</b> This new cabbage is the result of a cross made by
+a Long Island gardener between the Flat Dutch and a variety of Drumhead.
+The result is a remarkably large, early Drumhead, that matures close in
+time with the Early Summer, while it is from one third to one half
+larger. It is an excellent variety either as an early or late sort; the
+roundness of the head, leaving a thick, solid cabbage, should it become
+necessary, as is often the case with those marketed in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> spring, to
+peel off the outer layer of leaves. Heads large in size, solid and
+tender, and rich flavored when cooked. It has already, in three years,
+verified the prophecy I made when sending it out, and become a standard
+variety in some localities.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img64.jpg" alt="Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage." title="Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage." /></div>
+<p><b>Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage.</b> I am not acquainted with any variety
+of cabbage (I believe I have raised about all the native and foreign
+varieties that have been catalogued) that makes so hard a head as does
+the "Hard-heading" when fully matured. Neither am I acquainted with any
+variety that is so late a keeper as is this; the German gardener, from
+whom I obtained it, said that it gave him, and his friends who had it,
+complete control of the Chicago market for about a fortnight after all
+other varieties had "played out." My own experience with it tends to
+confirm this statement, for under the same conditions it kept decidedly
+later than all my other<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> varieties, was greener in color, and when
+planted out they were so late to push seed-shoots that I almost
+despaired of getting a crop of seed. I find, also, that they are much
+less inclined to burst than any of the hard-heading varieties. Heads
+grow to a good market size, are more globular than Flat Dutch; and, as
+might be presumed, of great weight in proportion to their size. The
+color is a peculiar green, rather more of an olive than most kinds of
+cabbage. About a fortnight later than Flat Dutch. For late fall, winter,
+and spring sales plant 3 by 3 the first of June.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img65.jpg" alt="Early Deep-Head Cabbage." title="Early Deep-Head Cabbage." /></div>
+<p><b>Early Deep-Head Cabbage.</b> This is a valuable improvement on the Fottler
+made by years of careful selection and high cultivation by Mr. Alley of
+Marblehead, a famous cabbage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> grower, who, as the name indicates, has
+produced a deeper, rounder heading variety than the original Fottler,
+thus making what that was not, an excellent sort for winter and spring
+marketing. It has all the excellent traits of its parent in reliability
+for making large, handsome heads.</p>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<p><b>Bergen Drumhead.</b> Heads round, rather flat on the top, solid; leaves
+stout, thick, and rather numerous; stump short. With me, under same
+cultivation, it is later than Stone Mason. It is tender and of good
+flavor. A popular sort in many sections, particularly in the markets of
+New York City. Have the plants three feet apart each way.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SAVOY CABBAGES.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The Savoys are the tenderest and richest-flavored of cabbages, though
+not always as sweet as a well-grown Stone Mason; nor is a Savoy grown on
+poor soil, or one that has been pinched by drouth, as tender as a Stone
+Mason that has been grown under favoring circumstances; yet it remains,
+as a rule, that the Savoy surpasses all other cabbages in tenderness,
+and in a rich, marrow-like flavor. The Savoys are also the hardiest of
+the cabbage tribe, enduring in the open field a temperature within
+sixteen degrees of zero without serious injury; and if the heads are not
+very hard they will continue to withstand repeated changes from freezing
+to thawing for a couple of months, as far north as the latitude of
+Boston. A degree of freezing improves them, and it is common in that
+latitude to let such as are intended for early winter use, in the
+family, remain standing in the open ground where they grew, cutting the
+heads as they are wanted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>As a rule Savoys neither head as readily (the "Improved American Savoy"
+being an exception) nor do the heads grow as large as the Drumhead
+varieties; indeed, most of the kinds in cultivation are so unreliable in
+these respects as to be utterly worthless for market purposes, and
+nearly so for the kitchen garden.</p>
+
+<p><b>The Drumhead Savoy.</b> This, as the name implies, is the result of a
+cross between a Savoy and a Drumhead cabbage, partaking of the
+characteristics of each. Many of the cabbages sold in the market as
+Savoy are really this variety. One variety in my experimental garden,
+which I received as <span class="smcap">Tour's Savoy</span> (evidently a Drumhead variety
+of the Savoy), proved to be much like Early Schweinfurt in earliness and
+style of heading; the heads were very large, but quite loose in
+structure; I should think it would prove valuable for family use.</p>
+
+<p>It is a fact that does not appear to be generally known that we have
+among the Savoys some remarkably early sorts which rank with the
+earliest varieties of cabbage grown. Pancalier and Early Ulm Savoy are
+earlier than that old standard of earliness, Early York; Pancalier being
+somewhat earlier than Ulm.</p>
+
+<p><b>Pancalier.</b> is characterized by very coarsely blistered leaves of the
+darkest-green color; the heads usually gather together, being the only
+exception I know of to the rule that cabbage heads are made up of
+overlapping leaves, wrapped closely together. It has a short stump, and
+with high cultivation is reliable for heading. The leaves nearest the
+head, though not forming a part of it, are quite tender, and may be
+cooked with the head. Plant fifteen by thirty inches.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img68-1.jpg" alt="Early Ulm Savoy." title="Early Ulm Savoy." /></div>
+
+<p><b>Early Ulm Savoy.</b> is a few days later than Pancalier, and makes a larger
+head; the leaves are of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> lighter green and not so coarsely blistered;
+stump short; head round; very reliable for heading. It has a capital
+characteristic in not being so liable as most varieties to burst the
+head and push the seed shoot immediately after the head is matured. For
+first early, I know no cabbages so desirable as these for the kitchen
+garden.</p>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+<p>The <b>Early Dwarf Savoy.</b> is a desirable variety of second early. The
+heads are rather flat in shape, and grow to a fair size. Stumps short;
+reliable for heading.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><img src="images/img68-2.jpg" alt="Improved American Savoy." title="Improved American Savoy." /></div>
+<p><b>Improved American Savoy.</b> Everything considered, this is the Savoy,
+"par excellence," for the market garden. It is a true Savoy, the heads
+grow to a large size, from six to ten inches in diameter, varying, of
+course, with soil, manure, and cultivation. In shape the heads are
+mostly globular, occasionally oblong, having but few waste leaves, and
+grow very solid. Stump short. In reliability for heading it is
+unsurpassed by any other cabbage.</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Golden Savoy</b> differs from other varieties in the color of the head,
+which rises from the body of light<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> green leaves, of a singular pale
+yellow color, as though blanched. The stumps are long, and the head
+rather small, a portion of these growing pointed. It is very late, not
+worth cultivating, except as a curiosity.</p>
+
+<p><b>Norwegian Savoy.</b> This is a singular half cabbage, half kale&mdash;at least,
+so it has proved under my cultivation. The leaves are long, narrow,
+tasselated, and somewhat blistered. The whole appearance is very
+singular and rather ornamental. I have tried this cabbage twice, but
+have never got beyond the possible promise of a head.</p>
+
+<p><b>Victoria Savoy</b>, <b>Russian Savoy</b>, and <b>Cape Savoy</b>, tested in my
+experimental garden, did not prove desirable either for family use or
+for market purposes.</p>
+
+<p><b>Feather Stemmed Savoy.</b> This is a cross between the Savoy and Brussels
+sprouts, having the habit of growth of Brussels sprouts.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>OTHER VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I will add notes on some other varieties which have been tested, from
+year to year, in my experimental plot. The results from tests of
+different strains of standard sorts, I have not thought it worth the
+while to record.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannon Ball.</b> The heads are usually spherical, attaining to a diameter
+of from five to nine inches, with the surrounding leaves gathered rather
+closely around them; in hardness and relative weight it is excelled by
+but few varieties. Stump short. It delights in the highest cultivation
+possible. It is about a week later than Early York. In those markets
+where cabbages are sold by weight, it will pay to grow for market; it is
+a good cabbage for the family garden.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Cone</b>, of the Wakefield class, but with me not as early.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Garfield Pickling</b>, of late variety, of the conical class.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cardinal Red.</b> A large, late variety of red; but on my grounds, it is
+not equal to Red Drumhead.</p>
+
+<p><b>Vilmorin's Early Flat Dutch.</b> Not quite as large as Early Summer,
+though about as early and resembles it in shape of head.</p>
+
+<p><b>Royal German Drumhead.</b> Reliable for heading.</p>
+
+<p><b>Large White Solid Magdeburg.</b> A late Drumhead; short stumped; reliable
+for heading. Medium late.</p>
+
+<p><b>Pak Choi.</b> Evidently of the Kale class; no heads.</p>
+
+<p><b>Chou de Burghlez</b> and <b>Chou de Milan</b>. These are coarse, loose, small
+heading varieties, allied to Kale. The latter is of the Savoy class.</p>
+
+<p><b>Earliest Erfurt Blood-Red.</b> Decidedly the earliest of the red cabbages.
+Very reliable for heading. A Drumhead; smaller than Red Drumhead. Very
+dark red.</p>
+
+<p><b>Empress.</b> Resembles Wyman in size and shape; but the heads are more
+pointed, and it makes head earlier. Heads well.</p>
+
+<p><b>Schlitzer.</b> This makes heads mostly shaped like the Winnigstadt, but a
+third larger. Its mottling of green and purple gives it a striking
+appearance. Early and very reliable for heading. Heads are not very
+hard; but, when cooked, are just about as tender and rich-flavored as
+the Savoy. Promises to be an excellent sort for family use.</p>
+
+<p><b>Rothelburg.</b> An early sure heading variety of the Drumhead class. Heads
+of medium size; resembling in shape Deep Head.</p>
+
+<p><b>Sure Head.</b> A strain of Flat Dutch. A late variety; heads deeper than
+Fottler, but with me not so reliable.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Dark Red Pointed.</b> Resembles Winnigstadt in shape. About as late as Red
+Dutch, and not as desirable.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bacalan Late.</b> In shape resembles Winnigstadt. Grow a little wild.</p>
+
+<p><b>Amack.</b> A late variety. Heads generally nearly globular and quite hard.
+Very reliable for heading.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bangholm.</b> First of all. As early as the earliest, but very small,&mdash;not
+as large as Little Pixie.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Enfield Market.</b></p>
+
+<p><b>Tourleville.</b> Heads resemble Wakefield in form; but, with me, are
+neither so large nor so large, and are more inclined to burst.</p>
+
+<p><b>Danish Round Winter.</b> A late variety; bearing deep, hard heads on long
+stumps.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dwarf Danish.</b> Late. Reliable to head; uneven in time of heading. Worth
+planting for market.</p>
+
+<p><b>Danish Ball Drumhead.</b> Heads not characterized by globular shape, but
+rather flattish. Irregular in length of stump.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Paris.</b> Closely resembles Wakefield.</p>
+
+<p><b>Very Early Etampes.</b> Earlier than Wakefield. Shape partakes of both
+Oxheart and Wakefield.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Mohawk.</b> Light green in color; a good header, but not so hard
+heading as Fottler. Appears to have a little of the Savoy cross in it.</p>
+
+<p><b>Sure Head.</b> A late variety of the Dutch class; reliable for heading;
+stump rather long.</p>
+
+<p><b>Excelsior.</b> A variety which is of the Fottler class, but makes smaller
+sized heads.</p>
+
+<p><b>Louisville Drumhead.</b> Of the flat Dutch type; nearly as early as Early
+Summer.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Advance.</b> Of the Wakefield type. With me it is full as early as
+Wakefield, and considerably larger. Rather coarser in structure.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Market Garden.</b> Of the Fottler class; very reliable for heading. Heads
+of good size, but rather coarser than the Deep Head.</p>
+
+<p><b>Chase's Excelsior.</b> A second early; much like Fottler; heads finely.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bloomsdale Early Market.</b> With me this is not as good a variety as
+Wakefield.</p>
+
+<p><b>Berkshire Beauty.</b> There appear to be fine possibilities in this
+cabbage, which have not yet been developed into uniformity.</p>
+
+<p><b>Landredth's Extra Early.</b> With me it does not prove as early as
+Wakefield, and does not head as well.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bridgeport Late Drumhead.</b> A large Drumhead; in size, between Stone
+Mason and Marblehead Mammoth. Reliable for heading, but does not head as
+hard as either of these varieties. Not inclined to burst.</p>
+
+<p><b>Large French Oxheart</b> closely resembles Early Oxheart, but grows to
+double the size, and is about ten days later; quality usually good.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Sugar Loaf.</b> Heads shaped much like a loaf of sugar standing on
+its smaller end, resembling, as Burr well says, a head of Cos lettuce in
+its shape, and in the peculiar clasping of the leaves about the head.
+Heads rather hard, medium size; early, and tender. It is said not to
+stand the heat as well as most sorts.</p>
+
+<p><b>Large Brunswick Short-Stemmed.</b> (English seed.) Late, long-stumped,
+wild, plenty of leaves, almost no head; bears but a slight resemblance
+to Fottler's Drumhead.</p>
+
+<p><b>Early Empress.</b> Cabbages well; heads conical; early.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Robinson's Champion Ox Drumhead.</b> Stump long; heads soft and not very
+large; wild.</p>
+
+<p><b>English Winnigstadt.</b> Long-stumped; irregular; not to be compared with
+French stock.</p>
+
+<p><b>Blenheim.</b> Early; heads mostly conical; of good size.</p>
+
+<p><b>Shillings Queen.</b> Early; heads conical; stumps long.</p>
+
+<p><b>Carter's Superfine Early Dwarf.</b> Surpasses in earliness and hardness of
+head. Closely allied to Little Pixie.</p>
+
+<p><b>Enfield Market Improved.</b> Most of the heads were flat; rather wild; not
+to be compared with Fottler.</p>
+
+<p><b>Kemp's Incomparable.</b> Long-headed; heads, when mature, do not appear to
+burst as readily as with most of the conical class.</p>
+
+<p><b>Fielderkraut.</b> Closely resembles Winnigstadt, with larger and longer
+heads and stump; requires more room than Winnigstadt.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ramsay's Winter Drumhead.</b> Closely resembles St. Dennis. I think it is
+the same.</p>
+
+<p><b>Pomeranian Cabbage.</b> Heads very long; quite large for a conical heading
+sort; very symmetrical and hard; color, yellowish-green. It handles
+well, and I should think would prove a good keeper. Medium early.</p>
+
+<p><b>Alsacian Drumhead.</b> Stump long; late; wild.</p>
+
+<p><b>Marbled Bourgogne.</b> Stumps long; heads small and hard; color, a mixture
+of green and red.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="greens" id="greens"></a>CABBAGE GREENS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>In the vicinity of our large cities, the market gardeners sow large
+areas very thickly with cabbage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> seed, early in the spring, to raise
+young plants to be sold as greens. The seed is sown broadcast at the
+rate of ten pounds and upwards to the acre. Seed of the Savoy cabbage is
+usually sown for this purpose, which may be sometimes purchased at a
+discount, owing to some defect in quality or purity, that would render
+it worthless for planting for a crop of heading cabbage.</p>
+
+<p>The young plants are cut off about even with the ground, when four or
+five inches high, washed, and carried to market in barrels or bushel
+boxes. The price varies with the state of the market, from 12 cents to
+$3 a barrel, the average price in Boston market being about a dollar.
+With the return of spring most families have some cabbage stumps
+remaining in the cellar; these can be planted about a foot apart in some
+handy spot along the edge of the garden, where they will not interfere
+with the general crop, setting them under ground from a quarter to a
+half their length, depending on the length of the stumps. They will soon
+be covered with green shoots, which should be used as greens before the
+blossom buds show themselves, as they then become too strong to be
+agreeable. If the spot is rich and has been well dug, the rapidity of
+growth is surprising; and if the shoots are frequently gathered, many
+nice messes of greens can be grown from a few stumps. Farmers in
+Northern Vermont tell me, that if they break off each seed shoot as soon
+as it shows itself, close home to the stump, nice little heads will push
+out on almost every stump. In England, where the winter climate is much
+milder than that of New England, it is the practice to raise a second
+crop of heads in this way. In my own neighborhood<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> I have seen an acre
+from which a crop of drumhead cabbage had been cut off early in the
+season, every stump on which had from three to six hard heads, varying
+from the size of a hen's egg to that of a goose egg; but to get this
+second growth of heads, as much of the stump and leaves should be left
+as possible, when cutting out the original head. As in the cabbage
+districts of the North little or no use is made of this prolific after
+growth, it is worse than useless to suffer the ground to be exhausted by
+it; the stump should be pulled by the potato hoe as soon as the heads
+are marketed. When cabbages are planted out for seed, if, for any
+reason, the seed shoot fails to push out, and at times when it does push
+out, fine sprouts for greens will start below the head; when the stock
+of these sprouts becomes too tough for use, the large leaves may be
+stripped from them and cooked. I usually break off the tender tops of
+large sprouts, and then strip off the tenderest of the large leaves
+below.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CABBAGE FOR STOCK.</h2>
+
+
+<p>No vegetable raised in the temperate zone, Mangold Wurtzel alone
+excepted, will produce as much food to the acre, both for man and beast,
+as the cabbage. I have seen acres of the Marblehead Mammoth drumhead
+which would average thirty pounds to each cabbage, some specimens
+weighing over sixty pounds. The plants were four feet apart each way
+which would give a product of over forty tons to the acre; and I have
+tested a crop of Fottler's that yielded thirty tons of green food to the
+half acre. Other vegetables are at times raised for cattle feed, such as
+potatoes, carrots, ruta bagas, mangold wurtzels; a crop of potatoes
+yielding four hundred bushels to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> acre at sixty pounds the bushel
+would weigh twelve tons; a crop of carrot yielding twelve hundred
+bushels to the acre would weigh thirty tons; ruta bagas sometimes yield
+thirty tons; and mangolds as high as seventy tons to the acre. I have
+set all these crops at a high capacity for fodder purposes; the same
+favoring conditions of soil, manure, and cultivation that would produce
+four hundred bushels of potatoes, twelve hundred bushels of carrots, and
+thirty-five tons of ruta baga turnips, would give a crop of forty tons
+of the largest variety of drumhead cabbage. If we now consider the
+comparative merits of these crops for nutriment, we find that the
+cabbage excels them all in this department also. The potatoes abound in
+starch, the mangold and carrot are largely composed of water, while the
+cabbage abounds in rich, nitrogeneous food.</p>
+
+<p>Prof. Stewart states that cabbage for milch cows has about the same
+feeding value as sweet corn ensilage, and makes the value not over $3.40
+per ton. Now it is admitted by general current that the value of common
+ensilage, which is inferior to that made from sweet corn, is, when
+compared with good English hay, as 3 to 1. This would make cabbages for
+milch cows worth not far from $7.00 per ton.</p>
+
+<p>When cabbage is kept for stock feed later than the first severe frost,
+if the quantity is large there is considerable waste even with the best
+of care. The loose leaves should be fed first, and the heads kept in a
+cool place, not more than two or three deep, at as near the freezing
+point as possible. If it has been necessary to cut the heads from the
+stumps, they may be piled, after the weather has set in decidedly cold,
+conveniently near the barn, and kept covered with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> foot of straw or
+old litter. As long as a cabbage is kept frozen there is no waste to it;
+but if it be allowed to freeze and thaw two or three times, it will soon
+rot with an awful stench. I suspect that it is this rotten portion of
+the cabbage that often gives the bad flavor to milk. On the other hand,
+if it is kept in too warm and dry a place, the outer leaves will dry,
+turning yellow, and the whole head lose in weight,&mdash;if it be not very
+hard, shrivelling, and, if hard, shrinking. If they are kept in too warm
+and wet a place, the heads will decay fast, in a black, soft rot. The
+best way to preserve cabbages for stock into the winter, is to place
+them in trenches a few inches below the surface, and there cover with
+from a foot to two feet of coarse hay or straw, the depth depending on
+the coldness of the locality. When the ground has been frozen too hard
+to open with a plough or spade, I have kept them until spring by piling
+them loosely, hay-stack shape, about four feet high, letting the frost
+strike through them, and afterwards covering with a couple of feet of
+eel-grass; straw or coarse hay would doubtless do as well.</p>
+
+<p>I have treated of cabbage thus far when grown specially for stock; in
+every piece of cabbage handled for market purposes, there is a large
+proportion of waste suitable for stock feed, which includes the outside
+leaves and such heads as have not hardened up sufficiently for market.
+On walking over a piece just after my cabbages for seed stock have been
+taken off, I note that the refuse leaves that were stripped from the
+heads before pulling are so abundant they nearly cover the ground. If
+leaves so stripped remain exposed to frost, they soon spoil; or, if
+earlier in the season they are exposed to the sun, they soon become<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>
+yellow, dry, and of but little value. They can be rapidly collected with
+a hay fork and carted, if there be but a few, into the barn; should
+there be a large quantity, dump them within a convenient distance of the
+barn or feeding ground, but not where the cattle can trample them, and
+spread them so that they will be but a few inches in depth. If piled in
+heaps they will quickly heat; but even then, if not too much decayed,
+cattle will eat them with avidity. Cabbages are hardy plants, and loose
+heads will stand a good deal of freezing and thawing without serious
+injury. They are not generally injured with the thermometer 16&deg; below
+freezing. The waste, after the seed and all market cabbage are removed,
+brings me about $10 per acre on the ground, for cow feed.</p>
+
+<p>If cabbage is fed to cows in milk without some care, it will be apt to
+give the milk a strong cabbage flavor; all the feed for the day should
+be given early in the morning. Beginning with a small quantity, and
+gradually increasing it, the dairy man will soon learn his limits. The
+effect of a liberal feed to milk stock is to largely increase the flow
+of milk. Avoid feeding to any extent while the leaves are frozen.</p>
+
+<p>An English writer says: "The cabbage comes into use when other things
+begin to fail, and it is by far the best succulent vegetable for milking
+cows,&mdash;keeping up the yield of milk, and preserving, better than any
+other food, some portion of the quality which cheese loses when the cows
+quit their natural pasturage. Cows fed on cabbages are always quiet and
+satisfied, while on turnips they often scour and are restless. When
+frosted, they are liable to produce hoven, unless kept in a warm shed to
+thaw before being used; fifty-six pounds given, at two meals, are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> as
+much as a large cow should have in a day. Frequent cases of abortion are
+caused by an over-supply of green food. Cabbages are excellent for young
+animals, keeping them in health, and preventing 'black leg.' A calf of
+seven months may have twenty pounds a day."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>RAISING CABBAGE SEED.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Cabbage seed in England, particularly of the drumhead sorts, is mostly
+raised from stumps, or from the refuse that remains after all that is
+salable has been disposed of. The agent of one of the largest English
+seed houses, a few years since, laughed at my "wastefulness," as he
+termed it, in raising seed from solid heads. In our country, cabbage
+seed is mostly raised from soft, half-formed heads, which are grown as a
+late crop, few, if any of them, being hard enough to be of any value in
+the market. Seedsmen practise selecting a few fine, hard heads, from
+which to raise their seed stock. It has been my practice to grow seed
+from none but extra fine heads, better than the average of those carried
+to market. I do this on the theory that no cabbage can be too good for a
+seedhead, if the design is to keep the stock first-class. Perhaps such
+strictness may not be necessary; but I had rather err in setting out too
+good heads than too poor ones; besides, the great hardness obtained by
+the heads of the Stone Mason, makes it possible, at least, that I am
+right. Cabbage raised from seed grown from stumps are apt to be
+unreliable for heading, and to grow long-stumped, though under
+unfavorable conditions, long-stumped and poor-headed cabbage may grow
+from the best of seed. To have the best of seed, all shoots that start
+below the head<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> should be broken off. To prevent the plants falling over
+after the seed-stalks are grown, dig deep holes, and plant the entire
+stump in the ground. Scarecrows should be set up, or some like
+precaution be taken, to keep away the little seed-birds, that begin to
+crack the pods as soon as they commence to ripen. A plaster cat is a
+very good scarecrow to frighten away birds from seed and small fruits,
+if its location is changed every few days.</p>
+
+<p>I find that the pods of cabbage seed grown South are tough, and not
+brittle, like those grown North, and hence that they are injured but
+little, if any, by seed birds. When the seed-pods have passed what
+seedsmen call their "red" stage, they begin to harden; as soon as a
+third of them are brown, the entire stalk may be cut and hung up in a
+dry, airy place, for a few days, when the seed will be ready for rubbing
+or threshing out. Different varieties should be raised far apart to
+insure purity; and cabbage seed had better not be raised in the vicinity
+of turnip seed. There is some difference of opinion as to the effect of
+growing these near each other; where the two vegetables blossom at the
+same time, I should fear an admixture. When the care requisite to select
+good seed stock, and the trouble, and, often, great loss, in keeping it
+over winter, planting it in isolated locations, protecting it from wind
+and weather, guarding it from injury from birds and other enemies,
+gathering it, cleaning it, are all considered, few men will find that
+they can afford to raise their own seed, provided they can buy it from
+reliable seedsmen.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Cabbage when boiled with salt pork, as it is mostly used, is the food
+for strong and healthy digestive powers; but when eaten in its raw
+state, served with vinegar and pepper, it is considered one of the most
+easily digested articles of diet. In the process of cooking, even with
+the greatest care, a large portion of the sweetness is lost. The length
+of time required to cook cabbage by boiling varies with the quality,
+those of the best quality requiring about twenty minutes, while others
+require an hour. In cooking put it into boiling water in which a little
+salt and soda has been sprinkled, which will tend to preserve the
+natural green color. It will be well to change the water once. The
+peculiar aroma given out by cabbage when cooking is thought to depend
+somewhat on the manner in which it is grown; those having been raised
+with the least rank manure having the least. I think this is one of the
+whims of the community. By using some varieties of boilers all steam is
+carried into the fire, and there is no smell in the house.</p>
+
+<p>To <i>Pickle</i>, select hard heads, quarter them, soak in salt and water
+four or five days, then drain and treat as for other pickles, with
+vinegar spiced to suit.</p>
+
+<p>For <i>Cold Slaw</i>, select hard heads, halve and then slice up these halves
+exceedingly fine. Lay these in a deep dish, and pour over vinegar that
+has been raised to the boiling point in which has been mixed a little
+pepper and salt.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sour-Krout.</i> Take large, hard-headed drumheads, halve, and cut very
+fine; then pack in a clean, tight barrel, beginning with a sprinkling of
+salt, and follow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>ing with a layer of cabbage, and thus alternating until
+the barrel is filled. Now compact the mass as much as possible by
+pounding, after which put on a well-fitting cover resting on the
+cabbage, and lay heavy weights or a stone on this. When fermented it is
+ready for use. To prepare for the table fry in butter or fat.</p>
+
+<p>The outer green leaves of cabbages are sometimes used to line a brass or
+copper kettle in which pickles are made in the belief that the vinegar
+extracts the coloring substance (chlorophyl) in the leaves, and the
+cucumbers absorbing this acquire a rich green color. Be not deceived by
+this transparent cheat, O simple housewife! the coloring matter comes
+almost wholly from the copper or brass behind those leaves; and, instead
+of an innocent vegetable pigment, your green cucumbers are dyed with the
+poisonous carbonate of copper.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CABBAGES UNDER GLASS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The very early cabbages usually bringing high prices, the enterprising
+market gardener either winters the young plants under glass or starts
+them there, planting the seed under its protecting shelter long before
+the cold of winter is passed. When the design is to winter over fall
+grown plants, the seed are planted in the open ground about the middle
+of September, and at about the last of October they are ready to go into
+the cold frames, as such are called that depend wholly on the sun for
+heat. Select those having short stumps and transplant into the frames,
+about an inch and a half by two inches apart, setting them deep in the
+soil up to the lower leaves, shading them with a straw mat, or the like,
+for a few days, after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> which let them remain without any glass over them
+until the frost is severe enough to begin to freeze the ground, then
+place over the sashes; but bear in mind that the object is not to
+promote growth, but, as nearly as possible, to keep them in a dormant
+state, to keep them so cold that they will not grow, and just
+sufficiently protected to prevent injury from freezing. With this object
+in view the sashes must be raised whenever the temperature is above
+freezing, and this process will so harden the plants that they will
+receive no serious injury though the ground under the sash should freeze
+two inches deep; cabbage plants will stand a temperature of fifteen to
+twenty degrees below the freezing point. A covering of snow on the sash
+will do no harm, if it does not last longer than a week or ten days, in
+which case it must be removed. There is some danger to be feared from
+ground mice, who, when everything else is locked up by the frost, will
+instinctively take to the sash, and there cause much destruction among
+the plants unless these are occasionally examined. When March opens
+remove the sash when the temperature will allow, replacing it when the
+weather is unseasonably cold, particularly at night. The plants may be
+brought still farther forward by transferring them from the hot-bed when
+two or three inches high to cold frames, having first somewhat hardened
+them. When so transferred plant them about an inch apart, and shield
+from the sun for two or three days. After this they may be treated as in
+cold frames. The transfer tends to keep them stocky, increases the
+fibrous roots and makes the plants hardier. As the month advances it may
+be left entirely off, and about the first of April the plants may be set
+out in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> open field, pressing fine earth firmly around the roots.</p>
+
+<p>When cabbages are raised in hot-beds the seed, in the latitude of
+Boston, should be planted on the first of March; in that of New York,
+about a fortnight earlier. When two or three inches high, which will be
+in three or four weeks, they should be thinned to about four or less to
+an inch in the row. They should now be well hardened by partly drawing
+off the sashes in the warm part of the day, and covering at night; as
+the season advances remove the sashes entirely by day, covering only at
+night. By about the middle of April the plants will be ready for the
+open ground.</p>
+
+<p>When raised in cold frames in the spring, the seed should be planted
+about the first of April, mats being used to retain by night the solar
+heat accumulated during the day. As the season advances the same process
+of hardening will be necessary as with those raised in hot-beds.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED.</h2>
+
+
+<p>To carry on hot-beds on a large scale successfully is almost an art in
+itself, and for fuller details I will refer my readers to works on
+gardening. Early plants, in a small way, may be raised in flower pots or
+boxes in a warm kitchen window. It is best, if practicable, to have but
+one plant in each pot, that they may grow short and stocky. If the seed
+are not planted earlier than April, for out-of-door cultivation, a cold
+frame will answer.</p>
+
+<p>For a cold frame select the locality in the fall, choosing a warm
+location on a southern slope, protected by a fence or building on the
+north and north-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>west. Set posts in the ground, nail two boards to these
+parallel to each other, one about a foot in height, and the other
+towards the south about four inches narrower; this will give the sashes
+resting on them the right slope to shed the rain and receive as much
+heat as possible from the sun. Have these boards at a distance apart
+equal to the length of the sash, which may be any common window sash for
+a small bed, while three and a half feet is the length of a common
+gardener's sash. If common window sash is used cut channels in the
+cross-bars to let the water run off. Dig the ground thoroughly (it is
+best to cover it in the fall with litter, to keep the frost out) and
+rake out all stones or clods; then slide in the sash and let it remain
+closed for three or four days, that the soil may be warmed by the sun's
+rays. The two end boards and the bottom board should rise as high as the
+sash, to prevent the heat escaping, and the bottom board of a small
+frame should have a strip nailed inside to rest the sash on. Next rake
+in, thoroughly, guano, or phosphate, or finely pulverized hen manure,
+and plant in rows four to six inches apart. As the season advances raise
+the sashes an inch or two, in the middle of the day, and water freely,
+at evening, with water that is nearly of the temperature of the earth in
+the frame. As the heat of the season increases whitewash the glass, and
+keep them more and more open until just before the plants are set in
+open ground, then allow the glass to remain entirely off, both day and
+night, unless there should be a cold rain. This will harden them so that
+they will not be apt to be injured by the cabbage beetle, as well as
+chilled and put back by the change. Should the plants be getting too
+large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> before the season for transplanting, they should be checked by
+root pruning,&mdash;drawing a sharp knife within a couple of inches of the
+stalk. If it is desirable still further to check their growth, or harden
+them, transplant into another cold frame, allowing each plant double the
+distance it before occupied.</p>
+
+<p>The structure and management of a hot-bed is much the same as that of a
+cold frame, with the exception that the sashes are usually longer and
+the back and front somewhat higher; being started earlier the requisite
+temperature has to be kept up by artificial means, fermenting manure
+being relied upon for the purpose; and the loss of this heat has to be
+checked more carefully by straw matting, and, in the far North, by
+shutters also. In constructing it, horse-manure, with plenty of litter,
+and about a quarter its bulk in leaves, if attainable, all having been
+well mixed together, is thrown into a pile, and left for a few days
+until steam escapes, when the mass is again thrown over and left for two
+or three days more, after which it is thrown into the pit (or it may be
+placed directly on the surface) which is lined with boards, from
+eighteen inches to two feet in depth, when it is beaten down with a fork
+and trodden well together. The sashes are now put on and kept there
+until heat is developed. The first intense heat must be allowed to pass
+off, which will be in about three days after the high temperature is
+reached. Now throw on six or eight inches of fine soil, in which mix
+well rotted manure, free from all straw, or rake in, thoroughly,
+superphosphate, or guano, at the rate of two thousand pounds to the
+acre, and plant the seed as in cold frame. Harden the plants as directed
+in preceding paragraph.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE, AND SEA-KALE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>My treatise on the cabbage would hardly be complete without some
+allusion to such prominent members of the Brassica family as the
+cauliflower, broccoli, brussels-sprouts, and kale.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cauliflower.</b> Wrote the great Dr. Johnson: "Of all the flowers of the
+garden, give me the cauliflower." Whether from this we are to infer the
+surpassing excellence of this member of the Brassica family, or that the
+distinguished lexicographer meant emphatically to state his preference
+of utility to beauty (perhaps our own Ben. Franklin took a leaf from
+him), each reader must be his own judge; but be that as it may, it
+remains true, beyond all controversy, that the cauliflower, in toothsome
+excellence, stands at the head of the great family of which it is a
+member. To be successful, and raise choice cauliflowers, is the height
+of the ambition of the market gardener; and, with all his experience,
+and with every facility at hand, he does not expect full success oftener
+than three years in four. The cauliflower, like the strawberry, is
+exceedingly sensitive to the presence or absence of sufficient water,
+and success or failure with the crop may turn on its having a full
+supply from the time they are half grown. The finest specimens raised in
+Europe are grown in beds, which are kept well watered from the supply
+which runs between them; and the most successful growers in the country
+irrigate their crops during periods of drouth. Cauliflowers do best on
+deep, rich, rather moist soils. In the way of food, they want the very
+best, and plenty of it at that. The successful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> competitor, who won the
+first prize at the great Bay State Fair, to the disgusted surprise of a
+grower justly famous for his almost uniform success in winning the
+laurels, whispered in my ear his secret: "R. manures very heavily in the
+spring for his crop. I manure very heavily both fall and spring." In
+manuring, therefore, do as well by them as by your heaviest crop of
+large drumhead cabbage, using rich and well-rotted manure, broadcast,
+with dissolved bone or ashes, or both, in the drill. Plough deep, and
+work the land very thoroughly, two ploughings, with a harrowing between,
+are better than one. Give plenty of room; three by three for the smaller
+sorts, and three by three and a half for the later and larger. They need
+the same cultivation, and, being subject to the same diseases and injury
+from insect enemies, need the same protection as their cousins of the
+cabbage tribe. In raising for the summer market, start in the cold
+frame, or plant as early as the ground can be worked, that the plants
+may get well started before the dry season, or the crop will be likely
+to make such small heads "buttons" as to be practically a failure. For
+late crop, plant seed in the hills where they are to grow, from the 20th
+of May to the middle of June. The crop ripens somewhat irregularly. When
+there is danger from frost, the later heads should be pulled and stored,
+with both roots and leaves, being crowded, standing as they grew, into a
+cold cellar or cold pit, when they will continue growing. As soon as the
+heads begin to form, they should be protected from sunlight by either
+half breaking off the outer leaves and bending them over them, or by
+gathering these leaves loosely together and confining them loosely by
+rough pegs, or by tying them together with a wisp of rye-straw.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Varieties.</b> These are almost as numerous as in the cabbage family. I
+find notes on some thirty-five varieties, tested from year to year, in
+my experimental grounds. Most of them prove themselves to be but a
+lottery, in this country of dry seasons, though in the moister climate
+of the European localities, where they are at home, they are a success.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+ <img src="images/img89-1.jpg"
+ alt="The Half-Early Paris." /><br />
+ <b>The Half-Early Paris.</b>
+ </div>
+<div class="figright">
+ <img src="images/img89-2.jpg"
+ alt="Extra-Early Dwarf Erfurt." /><br />
+ <b>Extra-Early Dwarf Erfurt.</b>
+ </div>
+<div class="figright">
+ <img src="images/img90.jpg"
+ alt="Long Island Beauty." /><br />
+ <b>Long Island Beauty.</b>
+ </div>
+<p>The Half-Early Paris, or Demi-Dur, was for years the standard variety
+raised in this country, and from this, by selection, favorite local
+varieties were obtained; but, of late years, this has been, to a large
+degree, superseded by several excellent sorts, of which the Extra-Early
+Dwarf Erfurt was, doubtless the parent. Principal among these varieties
+are the Snowball, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> Sea-Foam, Vick's Ideal, and Berlin Dwarf. All of
+these are early sorts and excellent strains. After testing them side by
+side, I find that the best strain of the Snowball is not excelled by
+either of them. Of the somewhat later ripening sorts, a variety which
+originated in this country, called the "Long Island Beauty," gives me
+great satisfaction, in its reliability for heading, and in the large
+size of its heads; this, with the Algerian, as a larger late sort, will
+give us a first-class series.</p>
+
+
+<p>Cauliflower seed is not raised, as yet, to any large extent in this
+country, though some successful efforts have recently been made in this
+direction. I have found that there is a remarkable difference between
+varieties in the quantity of seed they will yield. From one variety I
+have raised as high as sixty pounds of seed from a given number of
+plants, while from two others, equally early, having the same number of
+plants in each instance, and raised in the same location (an island in
+the ocean), with precisely the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> same treatment in every way, I got, in
+each case, less than a tablespoonful of seed, though the heads of some
+of them grew to the enormous size of sixteen inches in diameter.</p>
+
+<p>A fine cauliflower is the pet achievement of the market gardener. The
+great aim is not to produce size only, "but the fine, white, creamy
+color, compactness, and what is technically called curdy appearance,
+from its resemblance to the curd of milk in its preparation for cheese.
+When the flower begins to open, or when it is of a warty or frost-like
+appearance, it is less esteemed. It should not be cut in summer above a
+day before it is used." The cauliflower is served with milk and butter,
+or it may become a component of soups, or be used as a pickle.</p>
+
+<p>The <b>Broccoli</b> are closely allied to the cauliflower, the white
+varieties bearing so close a resemblance that one of them, the
+Walcheren, is by some classed indiscriminately with each. The chief
+distinction between the two is in hardiness, the broccoli being much the
+hardier.</p>
+
+<p>Of Broccoli over forty varieties are named in foreign catalogues, of
+which <span class="smcap">Walcheren</span> is one of the very best. <span class="smcap">Knight's
+Protecting</span> is an exceedingly hardy dwarf sort. As a rule, the white
+varieties are preferred to the purple kinds. Plant and treat as
+cauliflower.</p>
+
+<p>Of <b>Brussels-Sprouts</b> (or bud-bearing cabbage) there are but two
+varieties, the dwarf and the tall; the tall kind produces more buds,
+while the dwarf is the hardier. The "sprouts" form on the stalks, and
+are miniature heads of cabbage from the size of a pea to that of a
+pigeon's egg. They are raised to but a limited extent in this country,
+but in Europe they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> are grown on a large scale. The sprouts may be
+cooked and served like cabbage, though oftentimes they are treated more
+as a delicacy and served with butter or some rich sauce. The <span class="smcap">Feather
+Stem Savoy</span> and <span class="smcap">Dalmeny Sprouts</span> are considered as hybrids,
+the one between the brussels-sprouts and Savoy, the other between it and
+Drumhead Savoy. The soil for brussels-sprouts should not be so rich as
+for cabbage, as the object is to grow them small and solid. Give the
+same distance apart as for early cabbage, and the same manner of
+cultivation. Break off the leaves at the sides a few at a time when the
+sprouts begin to form and when they are ready to use cut them off with a
+sharp knife.</p>
+
+<p><b>Kale.</b> Sea-kale, or sea-cabbage, is a native of the sea coast of
+England, growing in the sand and pebbles of the sea-shore. It is a
+perennial, perfectly hardy, withstanding the coldest winters of New
+England. The blossoms, though bearing a general resemblance to those of
+other members of the cabbage family, are yet quite unique in appearance,
+and I think worthy of a place in the flower garden. It is propagated
+both by seed and by cuttings of the roots, having the rows three feet
+apart, and the plants three feet apart in the rows. It is difficult to
+get the seeds to vegetate. Plant seed in April and May. The ground
+should be richly manured, and deeply and thoroughly worked. It is
+blanched before using. In cooking it it requires to be very thoroughly
+boiled, after which it is served up in melted butter and toasted bread.
+The sea-kale is highly prized in England; but thus far its cultivation
+in this country has been very limited.</p>
+
+<p>The <b>Borecole</b>, or common kale, is of the cabbage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> family, but is
+characterized by not heading like the cabbage or producing eatable
+flowers like the cauliflower and broccoli. The varieties are very
+numerous, some of them growing very large and coarse, suitable only as
+food for stock; others are exceedingly finely curled, and excellent for
+table use; while others in their color and structure are highly
+ornamental. They are annual, biennial, and perennial. They do not
+require so strong a soil or such high manuring as other varieties of the
+cabbage family.</p>
+
+<p>The varieties are almost endless; some of the best in cultivation for
+table use are the <span class="smcap">Dwarf Scotch</span>, <span class="smcap">Dwarf Green Curled</span> or
+<span class="smcap">German Greens</span>, <span class="smcap">Tall Green Curled</span>, <span class="smcap">Purple
+Borecole</span>, and the variegated kales. The crown of the plant is used
+as greens, or as an ingredient in soups. The kales are very hardy, and
+the dwarf varieties, with but little protection, can be kept in the
+North well into the winter in the open ground. Plant and cultivate like
+Savoy cabbage.</p>
+
+<p>The variegated sorts, with their fine curled leaves of a rich purple,
+green, red, white, or yellow color, are very pleasing in their effects,
+and form a striking and attractive feature when planted in clumps in the
+flower garden, particularly is this so because their extreme hardiness
+leaves them in full vigor after the cold has destroyed all other
+plants&mdash;some of the richest colors are developed along the veins of the
+uppermost leaves after the plant has nearly finished its growth for the
+season. The <span class="smcap">Jersey Cow Kale</span> grows to from three to six feet in
+height and yields a great body of green food for stock; have the rows
+about three feet apart, and the plants two to three feet distant in the
+rows. In several instances my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> customers have written me that this kale
+raised for stock feed has given them great satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class="smcap">Thousand-Headed Kale</span> is a tall variety sending out numerous
+side shoots, whence the name.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SQUASHES:</h2>
+
+<h3>HOW TO GROW THEM.</h3>
+
+<h4>PRICE, 30 CENTS, BY MAIL.</h4>
+
+<p>This treatise is amply illustrated, and gives full particulars on every
+point, including keeping and marketing the crop.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<h2>FERTILIZERS:</h2>
+
+<h3>WHERE THE MATERIALS COME FROM; HOW TO GET THEM IN THE CHEAPEST FORM; HOW
+TO MAKE OUR OWN FERTILIZERS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>In this work there will be found many valuable tables, with many
+suggestions, and much information on the purchase of materials, the
+combining of them, and the use of the fertilizers made from them. I
+believe it will give a good return to any of my customers, for his
+outlay. The treatise makes a book of 116 pages.</p>
+
+<h4>PRICE, BY MAIL, 40 CENTS.</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>ONION RAISING:</h2>
+
+
+ <h3>WHAT KINDS TO RAISE</h3>
+ <h4>AND</h4>
+ <h3>THE WAY TO RAISE THEM.</h3>
+
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+
+<p class='center'>
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,<br />
+ SEED GROWER AND DEALER,<br />
+ MARBLEHEAD, MASS.
+</p>
+
+<p>This work has been warmly recommended by some of the best authorities in
+the country, and has gone through fourteen editions. It gives the
+minutest details, from selecting the ground and preparing the soil, up
+to gathering and marketing the crop. Illustrated with thirteen
+engravings of Onions, Sowing Machines, and Weeding Machines.</p>
+
+<h4>PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3>A NEW TREATISE.</h3>
+
+<h2>CARROTS, MANGOLD WURTZELS</h2>
+
+<h4>AND</h4>
+
+<h3>SUGAR BEETS.</h3>
+
+<h4>WHAT KIND TO RAISE:</h4>
+
+<h3>How to Grow Them<br />
+AND<br />
+How to Feed Them.</h3>
+
+<p>This treatise presents, in minutest detail, every step of progress, from
+planting the seed to the matured crop.</p>
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+
+
+ <h3>JAMES J. H. GREGORY,</h3>
+ <h4>MARBLEHEAD, MASS.</h4>
+
+
+<h4>PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.</h4>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow
+Them, by James John Howard Gregory
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them, by
+James John Howard Gregory
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them
+ A Practical Treatise, Giving Full Details On Every Point,
+ Including Keeping And Marketing The Crop
+
+Author: James John Howard Gregory
+
+Release Date: August 8, 2006 [EBook #19006]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS: ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images produced by Core Historical
+Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ New York
+ State College of Agriculture
+ At Cornell University
+ Ithaca, N. Y.
+ Library
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+ Cabbages
+
+ and
+
+ Cauliflowers:
+
+
+ HOW TO GROW THEM.
+
+ A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT,
+ INCLUDING KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.
+
+
+ [Illustration: Cabbage Head]
+
+
+ BY
+
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+
+ ORIGINAL INTRODUCER OF THE MARBLEHEAD, DEEP HEAD, WARREN,
+ ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING, AND REYNOLDS CABBAGES.
+
+
+ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+ In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
+
+
+
+
+ CONTENTS.
+
+ PAGE
+ OBJECT OF TREATISE 1
+
+ THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE 1
+
+ WHAT A CABBAGE IS 2
+
+ SELECTING THE SOIL 4
+
+ PREPARING THE SOIL 5
+
+ THE MANURE 6
+
+ HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE 8
+
+ MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED 11
+
+ CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS 16
+
+ PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES 18
+
+ THE GREEN WORM 22
+
+ CLUB, OR STUMP ROOT, OR MAGGOT 24
+
+ CARE OF THE GROWING CROP 29
+
+ MARKETING THE CROP 30
+
+ KEEPING CABBAGE THROUGH THE WINTER 32
+
+ HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER 39
+
+ FOREIGN VARIETIES OF CABBAGE 43-45
+
+ AMERICAN VARIETIES 46-60
+
+ SAVOY VARIETIES 60-63
+
+ OTHER VARIETIES 63-67
+
+ CABBAGE GREENS 67
+
+ CABBAGE FOR STOCK 69
+
+ RAISING CABBAGE SEED 73
+
+ COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC. 75
+
+ CABBAGE UNDER GLASS 76
+
+ COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED 78
+
+ CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE
+ AND SEA-KALE 81
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS.
+
+
+
+
+OBJECT OF THIS TREATISE.
+
+
+As a general, yet very thorough, response to inquiries from many of my
+customers about cabbage raising, I have aimed in this treatise to tell
+them all about the subject. The different inquiries made from time to
+time have given me a pretty clear idea of the many heads under which
+information is wanted; and it has been my aim to give this with the same
+thoroughness of detail as in my little work on Squashes. I have
+endeavored to talk in a very practical way, drawing from a large
+observation and experience, and receiving, in describing varieties, some
+valuable information from McIntosh's work, "The Book of the Garden."
+
+
+
+
+THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE.
+
+
+Botanists tell us that all of the Cabbage family, which includes not
+only every variety of cabbage, Red, White, and Savoy, but all the
+cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and brussels sprouts, had their origin in
+the wild cabbage of Europe (_Brassica oleracea_), a plant with green,
+wavy leaves, much resembling charlock, found growing wild at Dover in
+England, and other parts of Europe. This plant, says McIntosh, is mostly
+confined to the sea-shore, and grows only on chalky or calcareous
+soils.
+
+Thus through the wisdom of the Great Father of us all, who occasionally
+in his great garden allows vegetables to sport into a higher form of
+life, and grants to some of these sports sufficient strength of
+individuality to enable them to perpetuate themselves, and, at times, to
+blend their individuality with that of other sports, we have the heading
+cabbage in its numerous varieties, the creamy cauliflower, the feathery
+kale, the curled savoy. On my own grounds from a strain of seed that had
+been grown isolated for years, there recently came a plant that in its
+structure closely resembled Brussels Sprouts, growing about two feet in
+height, with a small head under each leaf. The cultivated cabbage was
+first introduced into England by the Romans, and from there nearly all
+the kinds cultivated in this country were originally brought. Those
+which we consider as peculiarly American varieties, have only been made
+so by years of careful improvement on the original imported sorts. The
+characteristics of these varieties will be given farther on.
+
+
+
+
+WHAT A CABBAGE IS.
+
+
+If we cut vertically through the middle of the head, we shall find it
+made up of successive layers of leaves, which grow smaller and smaller,
+almost _ad infinitum_. Now, if we take a fruit bud from an apple-tree
+and make a similar section of it, we shall find the same structure. If
+we observe the development of the two, as spring advances, we shall find
+another similarity (the looser the head the closer will be the
+resemblance),--the outer leaves of each will unwrap and unfold, and a
+flower stem will push out from each. Here we see that a cabbage is a
+bud, a seed bud (as all fruit buds may be termed, the production of
+seed being the primary object in nature, the fruit enclosing it playing
+but a secondary part), the office of the leaves being to cover, protect,
+and afterwards nourish the young seed shoot. The outer leaves which
+surround the head appear to have the same office as the leaves which
+surround the growing fruit bud, and that office closes with the first
+year, as does that of the leaves surrounding fruit buds, when each die
+and drop off. In my locality the public must have perceived more or less
+clearly the analogy between the heads of cabbage and the buds of trees,
+for when they speak of small heads they frequently call them "buds."
+That the close wrapped leaves which make the cabbage head and surround
+the seed germ, situated just in the middle of the head at the
+termination of the stump, are necessary for its protection and nutrition
+when young, is proved, I think, by the fact that those cabbages, the
+heads of which are much decayed, when set out for seed, no matter how
+sound the seed germ may be at the end of the stump, never make so large
+or healthy a seed shoot as those do the heads of which are sound; as a
+rule, after pushing a feeble growth, they die.
+
+For this reason I believe that the office of the head is similar to and
+as necessary as that of the leaves which unwrap from around the blossom
+buds of our fruit trees. It is true that the parallel cannot be fully
+maintained, as the leaves which make up the cabbage head do not to an
+equal degree unfold (particularly is this true of hard heads); yet they
+exhibit a vitality of their own, which is seen in the deeper green color
+the outer leaves soon attain, and the change from tenderness to
+toughness in their structure: I think, therefore, that the degree of
+failure in the parallel may be measured by the difference between a
+higher and a lower form of organic life.
+
+Some advocate the economy of cutting off a large portion of the heads
+when cabbages are set out for seed to use as food for stock. There is
+certainly a great temptation, standing amid acres of large, solid, heads
+in the early spring months, when green food of all kinds is scarce, to
+cut and use such an immense amount of rich food, which, to the
+inexperienced eye, appears to be utterly wasted if left to decay, dry,
+and fall to the ground; but, for the reason given above, I have never
+done so. It is possible that large heads may bear trimming to a degree
+without injury to the seed crop; yet I should consider this an
+experiment, and one to be tried with a good deal of caution.
+
+
+
+
+SELECTING THE SOIL.
+
+
+In some of the best cabbage-growing sections of the country, until
+within a comparatively few years it was the very general belief that
+cabbage would not do well on upland. Accordingly the cabbage patch would
+be found on the lowest tillage land of the farm. No doubt, the lowest
+soil being the richer from a gradual accumulation of the wash from the
+upland, when manure was but sparingly used, cabbage would thrive better
+there than elsewhere,--and not, as was generally held, because that
+vegetable needed more moisture than any other crop. Cabbage can be
+raised with success on any good corn land, provided such land is well
+manured; and there is no more loss in seasons of drouth on such land
+than there is in seasons of excessive moisture on the lower tillage land
+of the farm. I wish I could preach a very loud sermon to all my farmer
+friends on the great value of liberal manuring to carry crops
+successfully through the effects of a severe drouth. Crops on soil
+precisely alike, with but a wall to separate them, will, in a very dry
+season, present a striking difference,--the one being in fine vigor, and
+the other "suffering from drouth," as the owner will tell you; but, in
+reality, from want of food.
+
+The smaller varieties of cabbage will thrive well on either light or
+strong soil, but the largest drumheads do best on strong soil. For the
+_Brassica_ family, including cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, etc.,
+there is no soil so suitable as freshly turned sod, provided the surface
+is well fined by the harrow; it is well to have as stout a crop of
+clover or grass, growing on this sod, when turned under, as possible,
+and I incline to the belief that it would be a judicious investment to
+start a thick growth of these by the application of guano to the surface
+sufficiently long before turning the sod to get an extra growth of the
+clover or grass. If the soil be very sandy in character, I would advise
+that the variety planted be the Winnigstadt, which, in my experience, is
+unexcelled for making a hard head under almost any conditions, however
+unpropitious. Should the soil be naturally very wet it should be
+underdrained, or stump foot will be very likely to appear, which is
+death to all success.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING THE SOIL.
+
+
+Should the soil be a heavy clay, a deep fall ploughing is best, that the
+frosts of winter may disintegrate it; and should the plan be to raise an
+early crop, this end will be promoted by fall ploughing, on any soil, as
+the land will thereby be made drier in early spring. In New England the
+soil for cabbages should be ploughed as deep as the subsoil, and the
+larger drumheads should be planted only on the deepest soil. If the
+season should prove a favorable one, a good crop of cabbage may be grown
+on sod broken up immediately after a crop of hay has been taken from it,
+provided plenty of fine manure is harrowed in. One great risk here is
+from the dry weather that usually prevails at that season, preventing
+the prompt germination of the seed, or rooting of the plants. It is
+prudent in such a case to have a good stock of plants, that such as die
+may be promptly replaced. It is wise to plant the seed for these a week
+earlier than the main crop, for when transplanted to fill the vacant
+places it will take about a week for them to get well rooted.
+
+The manure may be spread on the surface of either sod or stubble land
+and ploughed under, or be spread on the surface after ploughing and
+thoroughly worked into the soil by the wheel harrow or cultivator. On
+ploughed sod I have found nothing so satisfactory as the class of wheel
+harrows, which not only cut the manure up fine and work it well under,
+but by the same operation cut and pulverize the turf until the sod may
+be left not over an inch in thickness. To do the work thus thoroughly
+requires a yoke of oxen or a pair of stout horses. All large stones and
+large pieces of turf that are torn up and brought to the surface should
+be carted off before making the hills.
+
+
+
+
+THE MANURE.
+
+
+Any manure but hog manure for cabbage,--barn manure, rotten kelp,
+night-soil, guano, fertilizers, wood ashes, fish, salt, glue waste, hen
+manure, slaughter-house manure. I have used all of these, and found
+them all good when rightly applied. If pure hog manure is used it is apt
+to produce that corpulent enlargement of the roots known in different
+localities as "stump foot," "underground head," "finger and thumb;" but
+I have found barn manure on which hogs have run, two hogs to each
+animal, excellent. The cabbage is the rankest of feeders, and to perfect
+the larger sort a most liberal allowance of the richest composts is
+required. To grow the smaller varieties either barn-yard manure, guano,
+fertilizers, or wood ashes, if the soil be in good condition, will
+answer; though the richer and more abundant the manure the larger are
+the cabbages, and the earlier the crop will mature.
+
+To perfect the large varieties of drumhead,--by which I mean to make
+them grow to the greatest size possible,--I want a strong compost of
+barn-yard manure, with night-soil and muck or fish-waste, and, if
+possible, rotten kelp. A compost into which night-soil enters as a
+component is best made by first covering a plot of ground, of easy
+access, with soil or muck that has been exposed to a winter's frost, to
+the depth of about eighteen inches, and raising around this a rim about
+three feet in height, and thickness. Into this the night-soil is poured
+from carts built for the purpose, until the receptacle is about
+two-thirds full. Barn manure is now added, being dropped around and
+covering the outer rim, and, if the supply is sufficient, on the top of
+the heap also, on which it can be carted after cold weather sets in.
+Early in spring, the entire mass should be pitched over, thoroughly
+broken up with the bar and pick where frozen, and the frozen masses
+thrown on the surface. In pitching over the mass, work the rim in
+towards the middle of the heap. After the frozen lumps have thawed, give
+the heap another pitching over, aiming to mix all the materials
+thoroughly together, and make the entire mass as fine as possible. A
+covering of sand, thrown over the heap, before the last pitching, will
+help fine it.
+
+To produce a good crop of cabbages, with a compost of this quality, from
+six to twelve cords will be required to the acre. If the land is in good
+heart, by previous high cultivation, or the soil is naturally very
+strong, six cords will give a fair crop of the small varieties; while,
+with the same conditions, from nine to twelve cords to the acre will be
+required to perfect the largest variety grown, the Marblehead Mammoth
+Drumhead.
+
+Of the other kinds of manure named above, I will treat farther under the
+head of:
+
+
+
+
+HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE.
+
+
+The manure is sometimes applied wholly in the hill, at other times
+partly broadcast and partly in the hill. If the farmer desires to make
+the utmost use of his manure for that season, it will be best to put
+most of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather short;
+but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year's
+crop, he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to use
+all my rich compost broadcast, and depend on guano, fertilizers, or hen
+manure in the hill. Let all guano, if at all lumpy, like the Peruvian,
+be sifted, and let all the hard lumps be reduced by pounding, until the
+largest pieces shall not be larger than half a pea, before it is
+brought upon the ground. My land being ready, the compost worked under
+and the rows marked out, I select three trusty hands who can be relied
+upon to follow faithfully my directions in applying so dangerous manure
+as guano is in careless or ignorant hands; one takes a bucket of it,
+and, if for large cabbage, drops as much as he can readily close in his
+shut hand, where each hill is to be; if for small sorts, then about half
+that quantity, spreading it over a circle about a foot in diameter; the
+second man follows with a pronged hoe, or better yet, a six-tined fork,
+with which he works the guano well into the soil, first turning it three
+or four inches under the surface, and then stirring the soil _very
+thoroughly_ with the hoe or fork. Unless the guano (and this is also
+true of most fertilizers) is faithfully mixed up with the soil, the seed
+will not vegetate. Give the second man about an hour the start, and then
+let the third man follow with the seed. Of other fertilizers, I use
+about half as much again as of guano to each hill, and of hen manure a
+heaping handful, after it has been finely broken up, and, if moist,
+slightly mixed with dry earth. When salt is used, it should not be
+depended on exclusively, but be used in connection with other manures,
+at the rate of from ten to fifteen bushels to the acre, applied
+broadcast over the ground, or thoroughly mixed with the manure before
+that is applied; if dissolved in the manure, better yet. Salt itself is
+not a manure. Its principal office is to change other materials into
+plant food. Fish and glue waste are exceedingly powerful manures, very
+rich in ammonia, and, if used the first season, they should be in
+compost. It is best to handle fish waste, such as heads, entrails,
+backbones, and liver waste, precisely like night soil. "Porgy cheese,"
+or "chum," the refuse, after pressing out the oil from menhaden and
+halibut heads, and sometimes sold extensively for manure, is best
+prepared for use by composting it with muck or loam, layer with layer,
+at the rate of a barrel to every foot and a half, cord measure, of soil.
+As soon as it shows some heat, turn it, and repeat the process, two or
+three times, until it is well decomposed, when apply. Another excellent
+way to use fish waste is to compost it with barn manure, in the open
+fields. It will be best to have six inches of soil under the heap, and
+not layer the fish with the lower half of the manure, for it strikes
+down. Glue waste is a very coarse, lumpy manure, and requires a great
+deal of severe manipulation, if it is to be applied the first season. A
+better way is to compost it with soil, layer with layer, having each
+layer about a foot in thickness, and so allow it to remain over until
+the next season, before using. This will decompose most of the straw,
+and break down the hard, tough lumps. In applying this to the crop, most
+of it had better be used broadcast, as it is apt, at best, to be rather
+too coarse and concentrated to be used liberally directly in the hill.
+Slaughter-house manure should be treated much like glue manure.
+
+Mr. Proctor, of Beverly, has raised cabbage successfully on strong clay
+soil, by spreading a compost of muck containing fish waste, in which the
+fish is well decomposed, at the rate of two tons of the fish to an acre
+of land, after plowing, and then, having made his furrows at the right
+distance apart, harrowing the land thoroughly crossways with the
+furrows. The result was, besides mixing the manure thoroughly with the
+soil, to land an extra proportion of it in the furrows, which was
+equivalent to manuring in the drill.
+
+Cabbage can be raised on fertilizers alone. I have raised some crops in
+this way; but have been led to plow in from four to six cords of good
+manure to the acre, and then use from five hundred to a thousand pounds
+of some good fertilizer in the hill. The reason I prefer to use a
+portion of the cabbage food in the form of manure, is, that I have
+noticed that when the attempt is made to raise the larger drumhead
+varieties on fertilizers only, the cabbages, just as the heads are well
+formed, are apt to come nearly to a standstill. I explain this on the
+supposition that they exhaust most of the fertilizer, or some one of the
+ingredients that enter into it, during the earlier stage of growth;
+perhaps from the fact that the food is in so easily digestible
+condition, they use an over share of it, and the fact that those fed on
+fertilizers only, tend to grow longer stumped than usual, appears to
+give weight to this opinion. Though any good fertilizer is good for
+cabbage, yet I prefer those compounded on the basis of an analysis of
+the composition of the plants; they should contain the three
+ingredients, nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in the proportion of
+six, seven, five, taking them in the order in which I have written them.
+
+
+
+
+MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED.
+
+
+The idea is quite prevalent that cabbages will not head up well except
+the plants are started in beds, and then transplanted into the hills
+where they are to mature. This is an error, so far as it applies to the
+Northern States,--the largest and most experienced cultivators of
+cabbage in New England usually dropping the seed directly where the
+plant is to stand, unless they are first started under glass, or the
+piece of land to be planted cannot be prepared in season to enable the
+farmer to put his seed directly in the hill and yet give the cabbage
+time sufficient to mature. Where the climate is unpropitious, or the
+quantity of manure applied is insufficient, it is possible that
+transplanting may promote heading. The advantages of planting directly
+in the hill, are a saving of time, avoiding the risks incidental to
+transplanting, and having all the piece start alike; for, when
+transplanted, many die and have to be replaced, while some hesitate much
+longer than others before starting, thus making a want of uniformity in
+the maturing of the crop. There is, also, this advantage, there being
+several plants in each hill, the cut-worm has to depredate pretty
+severely before he really injures the piece; again, should the seed not
+vegetate in any of the hills, every farmer will appreciate the advantage
+of having healthy plants growing so near at hand that they can be
+transferred to the vacant spaces with their roots so undisturbed that
+their growth is hardly checked. In addition to the labor of
+transplanting saved by this plan, the great check that plants always
+receive when so treated is prevented, and also the extra risks that
+occur should a season of drouth follow. It is the belief of some
+farmers, that plants growing where the seed was planted are less liable
+to be destroyed by the cut-worm than those that have been transplanted.
+When planning to raise late cabbage on upland, I sow a portion of the
+seed on a moist spot, or, in case a portion of the land is moist, I
+plant the hills on such land with an extra quantity of seed, that I may
+have enough plants for the whole piece, should the weather prove to be
+too dry for the seed to vegetate on the dryer portions of it. It is wise
+to sow these extra plants about a week earlier, for they will be put
+back about a week by transplanting them.
+
+Some of our best farmers drill their seed in with a sowing machine, such
+as is used for onions, carrots, and other vegetable crops. This is a
+very expeditious way, and has the advantage of leaving the plants in
+rows instead of bunches, as in the hill system, and thus enables the hoe
+to do most of the work of thinning. It has also this advantage: each
+plant being by itself can be left much longer before thinning, and yet
+not grow long in the stump, thus making it available for transplanting,
+or for sale in the market, for a longer period.
+
+The usual way of preparing the hills is to strike out furrows with a
+small, one-horse plough, as far apart as the rows are to be. As it is
+very important that the rows should be as straight as practicable, it is
+a good plan to run back once in each furrow, particularly on sod land
+where the plough will be apt to catch in the turf and jump out of line.
+A manure team follows, containing the dressing for the hills, which has
+previously been pitched over and beaten up until all the ingredients are
+fine and well mixed. This team is so driven, if possible, as to avoid
+running in the furrows. Two or three hands follow with forks or shovels,
+pitching the manure into the furrows at the distance apart that has been
+determined on for the hills. How far apart these are to be will depend
+on the varieties, from eighteen inches to four feet. On land that has
+been very highly manured for a series of years, cabbage can be planted
+nearer than on land that has been under the plow but a few years. For
+the distance apart for different varieties see farther on. The manure is
+levelled with hoes, a little soil is drawn over it, and a slight stamp
+with the back of the hoe is given to level this soil, and, at the same
+time, to mark the hill. The planter follows with seed in a tin box, or
+any small vessel having a broad bottom, and taking a small pinch between
+the thumb and forefinger he gives a slight scratch with the remaining
+fingers of the same hand, and dropping in about half a dozen seed covers
+them half an inch deep with a sweep of the hand, and packs the earth by
+a gentle pat with the open palm to keep the moisture in the ground and
+thus promote the vegetation of the seed. With care a quarter of a pound
+of seed will plant an acre, when dropped directly in the hills; but half
+a pound is the common allowance, as there is usually some waste from
+spilling, while most laborers plant with a free hand.
+
+The soil over the hills being very light and porous, careless hands are
+apt to drop the seed too deep. Care should be taken not to drop the seed
+all in one spot, but to scatter them over a surface of two or three
+inches square, that each plant may have room to develop without crowding
+its neighbors.
+
+If the seed is planted in a line instead of in a mass the plants can be
+left longer before the final thinning without danger of growing tall and
+weak.
+
+If the seed is to be drilled in, it will be necessary to scatter the
+manure all along the furrows, then cover with a plough, roughly leveling
+with a rake.
+
+Should the compost applied to the hills be very concentrated, it will
+be apt to produce stump foot; it will, therefore, be safest in such
+cases to hollow out the middle with the corner of the hoe, or draw the
+hoe through and fill in with earth, that the roots of the young plants
+may not come in direct contact with the compost as soon as they begin to
+push.
+
+When guano or phosphates are used in the hills it will be well to mark
+out the rows with a plough, and then, where each hill is to be, fill in
+the soil level to the surface with a hoe, before applying them. I have,
+in a previous paragraph, given full instructions how to apply these. Hen
+manure, if moist, should be broken up very fine, and be mixed with some
+dry earth to prevent it from again lumping together, and the mixture
+applied in sufficient quantity to make an equivalent of a heaping
+handful of pure hen manure to each hill. Any liquid manure is excellent
+for the cabbage crop; but it should be well diluted, or it will be
+likely to produce stump foot.
+
+Cabbage seed of almost all varieties are nearly round in form, but are
+not so spherical as turnip seed. I note, however, that seed of the
+Savoys are nearly oval. In color they are light brown when first
+gathered, but gradually turn dark brown if not gathered too early. An
+ounce contains nearly ten thousand seed, but should not be relied upon
+for many over two thousand good plants, and these are available for
+about as many hills only when raised in beds and transplanted; when
+dropped directly in the hills it will take not far from eight ounces of
+the larger sorts to plant an acre, and of the smaller cabbage rather
+more than this. Cabbage seed when well cured and kept in close bags will
+retain their vitality four or five years; old gardeners prefer seed of
+all the cabbage family two or three years old.
+
+When the plan is to raise the young plants in beds to be transplanted,
+the ground selected for the beds should be of rich soil; this should be
+very thoroughly dug, and the surface worked and raked very fine, every
+stone and lump of earth being removed. Now sprinkle the seed evenly over
+the bed and gently rake in just under the surface, compacting the soil
+by pressure with a board. As soon as the young plants appear, sprinkle
+them with air-slaked lime. Transplant when three or four inches high,
+being very careful not to let the plants get tall and weak.
+
+For late cabbage, in the latitude of Boston, to have cabbages ready for
+market about the first of November, the Marblehead Mammoth should be
+planted the 20th of May, other late drumheads from June 1st to June
+12th, provided the plants are not to be transplanted; otherwise a week
+earlier. In those localities where the growing season is later, the seed
+should be planted proportionally later.
+
+
+
+
+CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS.
+
+
+In four or five days, if the weather is propitious, the young plants
+will begin to break ground, presenting at the surface two leaves, which
+together make nearly a square, like the first leaves of turnips or
+radishes. As soon as the third leaf is developed, go over the piece, and
+boldly thin out the plants. Wherever they are very thick, pull a mass of
+them with the fingers and thumb, being careful to fill up the hole made
+with fine earth. After the fourth leaf is developed, go over the piece
+again and thin still more; you need specially to guard against a
+slender, weak growth, which will happen when the plants are too
+crowded. In thinning, leave the short-stumped plants, and leave them as
+far apart in the hill as possible, that they may not shade each other,
+or so interfere in growing as to make long stumps. If there is any
+market for young plants, thousands can be sold from an acre when the
+seed are planted in the hill; but in doing this bear in mind that your
+principal object is to raise cabbages, and to succeed in this the young
+plants must on no account be allowed to stand so long together in the
+hills as to crowd each other, making a tall, weak, slender
+growth,--getting "long-legged," as the farmers call it.
+
+If the manure in any of the hills is too strong, the fact will be known
+by its effects on the plants, which will be checked in their growth, and
+be of a darker green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away the
+earth from the roots of such with the fingers, and draw around fresh
+earth; or, what is as well or better, transplant a healthy plant just on
+the edge of the hill. When the plants are finger high they are of a good
+size to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. When
+transplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and do not begin until
+sufficient rain has fallen to moisten the earth around the roots, which
+will make it more likely to adhere to them when taken up. Take up the
+young plants by running the finger or a trowel under them; put these
+into a flat basket or box, and in transplanting set them to the same
+depth they originally grew, pressing the earth a little about the roots.
+
+If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry spell, as usually
+happens, select the latter part of the afternoon, if practicable, and,
+making holes with a dibble, or any pointed stick an inch and a half in
+diameter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with water; and
+as soon as the water is about soaked away, beginning with the hole first
+filled, set out your plants. The evaporation of the moisture below the
+roots will keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants have
+great tenacity of life, and will rally and grow when they appear to be
+dead; the leaves may all die, and dry up like hay, but if the stump
+stands erect and the unfolded leaf at the top of the stump is alive, the
+plant will usually survive. When the plants are quite large, they may be
+used successfully by cutting or breaking off the larger leaves. Some
+advocate wilting the plants before transplanting, piling them in the
+cellar a few days before setting them out, to toughen them and get a new
+setting of fine roots; others challenge their vigor by making it a rule
+to do all transplanting under the heat of mid-day. I think there is not
+much of reason in this latter course. The young plants can be set out
+almost as fast as a man can walk, by holding the roots close to one side
+of the hole made by the dibble, and at the same moment pressing earth
+against them with the other hand.
+
+
+
+
+PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES.
+
+
+As soon as they have broken through the soil, an enemy awaits them in
+the small black insect commonly known as the cabbage or turnip fly,
+beetle, or flea. This insect, though so small as to appear to the eye as
+a black dot, is very voracious and surprisingly active. He apparently
+feeds on the juice of the young plant, perforating it with small holes
+the size of a pin point. He is so active when disturbed that his
+motions cannot be followed by the eye, and his sense of danger is so
+keen that only by cautiously approaching the plant can he be seen at
+all. The delay of a single day in protecting the young plants from his
+ravages will sometimes be the destruction of nearly the entire piece.
+Wood ashes and air-slaked lime, sprinkled upon the plants while the
+leaves are moist from either rain or dew, afford almost complete
+protection. The lime or ashes should be applied as soon as the plant can
+be seen, for then, when they are in their tenderest condition, the fly
+is most destructive. I am not certain that the alkaline nature of these
+affords the protection, or whether a mere covering by common dust might
+not answer equally well. Should the covering be washed off by rain,
+apply it anew immediately after the rain has ceased, and so continue to
+keep the young plants covered until the third or fourth leaves are
+developed when they will have become too tough to serve as food for this
+insect enemy.
+
+A new enemy much dreaded by all cabbage raisers will begin to make his
+appearance about the time the flea disappears, known as the cut-worm.
+This worm is of a dusky brown color, with a dark colored head, and
+varies in size up to about two inches in length. He burrows in the
+ground just below the surface, is slow of motion, and does his
+mischievous work at night, gnawing off the young plants close at the
+surface of the ground. This enemy is hard to battle with. If the patch
+be small, these worms can be scratched out of their hiding places by
+pulling the earth carefully away the following morning for a few inches
+around the stump of the plant destroyed, when the rascals will usually
+be found half coiled together. Dropping a little wood ashes around the
+plants close to the stumps is one of the best of remedies; its alkaline
+properties burning his nose I presume. A tunnel of paper put around the
+stump but not touching it, and sunk just below the surface, is
+recommended as efficacious; and from the habits of the worm I should
+think it would prove so. Perpendicular holes four inches deep and an
+inch in diameter is said to catch and hold them as effectively as do the
+pit falls of Africa the wild animals. Late planted cabbage will suffer
+little or none from this pest, as he disappears about the middle of
+June. Some seasons they are remarkably numerous, making it necessary to
+replant portions of the cabbage patch several times over. I have heard
+of as many as twenty being dug at different times the same season out of
+one cabbage hill. The farmer who tilled that patch earned his dollars.
+When the cabbage has a stump the size of a pipe stem it is beyond the
+destructive ravages of the cut-worm, and should it escape stump foot has
+usually quite a period of growth free from the attacks of enemies.
+Should the season prove unpropitious and the plant be checked in its
+growth, it will be apt to become "lousy," as the farmers term it,
+referring to its condition when attacked by a small green insect known
+as aphidae, which preys upon it in myriads; when this is the case the
+leaves lose their bright green, turn of a bluish cast, the leaf stocks
+lose somewhat of their supporting powers, the leaves curl up into
+irregular shapes, and the lower layer turns black and drops off, while
+the ground under the plant appears covered with the casts or bodies of
+the insects as with a white powder. When in this condition the plants
+are in a very bad way.
+
+Considering the circumstances under which this insect appears, usually
+in a very dry season, I hold that it is rather the product than the
+cause of disease, as with the bark louse on our apple-trees; as a remedy
+I advocate sprinkling the plants with air-slaked lime, watering, if
+possible, and a frequent and thorough stirring of the soil with the
+cultivator and hoe. The better the opportunities the cabbage have to
+develop themselves through high manuring, sufficient moisture, good
+drainage, and thorough cultivation, the less liable they are to be
+"lousy." As the season advances there will sometimes be found patches
+eaten out of the leaves, leaving nothing but the skeleton of leaf veins;
+an examination will show a band of caterpillars of a light green color
+at work, who feed in a compact mass, oftentimes a square, with as much
+regularity as though under the best of military discipline. The readiest
+way to dispose of them is to break off the leaf and crush them under
+foot. The common large red caterpillar occasionally preys on the plants,
+eating large holes in the leaves, especially about the head. When the
+cabbage plot is bordered by grass land, in seasons when grasshoppers are
+plenty, they will frequently destroy the outer rows, puncturing the
+leaves with small holes, and feeding on them until little besides their
+skeletons remain. In isolated locations rabbits and other vegetable
+feeders sometimes commit depredations. The snare and the shot-gun are
+the remedy for these.
+
+Other insects that prey upon the cabbage tribe, in their caterpillar
+state, are the cabbage moth, white-line, brown-eyed moth, large white
+garden butterfly, white and green veined butterfly. All of these produce
+caterpillars, which can be destroyed either by application of
+air-slaked lime, or by removing the leaves infested and crushing the
+intruders under foot. The cabbage-fly, father-long-legs, the millipedes,
+the blue cabbage-fly, brassy cabbage-flea, and two or three other insect
+enemies are mentioned by McIntosh as infesting the cabbage fields of
+England; also three species of fungi known as white rust, mildew, and
+_cylindrosporium concentricum_; these last are destroyed by the
+sprinkling of air-slaked lime on the leaves. In this country, along the
+sea coast of the northern section, in open-ground cultivation, there is
+comparatively but little injury done by these marauders, which are the
+cause of so much annoyance and loss to our English cousins.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREEN WORM.
+
+
+A new and troublesome enemy to the cabbage tribe which has made its
+appearance within a few years, and spread rapidly over a large section
+of the country, is a green worm, _Anthomia brassicae_. This pest infests
+the cabbage tribe at all stages of its growth; it is believed to have
+been introduced into this country from Europe, by the way of Canada,
+where it was probably brought in a lot of cabbage. It is the caterpillar
+of a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. In Europe, this
+butterfly is preyed on by two or more parasites, which keep it somewhat
+in check; but its remarkably rapid increase in this country, causing a
+wail of lamentation to rise in a single season from the cabbage growers
+over areas of tens of thousands of square miles, proved that when it
+first appeared it had reached this country without its attendant
+parasites.
+
+Besides this green worm, there are found in Europe four varieties of
+caterpillar variously marked, the caterpillars from all of which make
+great havoc among the cabbage tribe.
+
+The most effective destroyer of this, and about every other insect pest,
+is what is known as the "Kerosene Emulsion." This is made by churning
+common kerosene with milk or soap until it is diffused through the
+liquid.
+
+Take one quart of kerosene oil and pour it into a pint of hot water in
+which an ounce of common soap has been dissolved; churn this briskly
+while hot (a force pump is excellent for this), and, when well mixed,
+which will be in a few minutes, it will be of a creamy consistency; mix
+one quart to ten or twelve of cold water, and spray or sprinkle it over
+the plants with a force-pump syringe or a whisk broom.
+
+Another remedy is pyrethrum. Use that which is fresh; either blowing it
+on in a dry state with a bellows, wherever the worm appears, or using it
+diluted, at the rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons of water;
+applying as with the kerosene emulsion. Mr. A. S. Fuller, who is good
+authority on garden matters, succeeds by applying tar-water. Place a
+couple of quarts of coal tar in a barrel and fill with water; let it
+stand forty-eight hours, then dip off, and apply with a watering-pot, or
+syringe.
+
+Chickens allowed to run freely among the growing plants, the hen being
+confined in a movable coop, if once attracted to them will fatten on
+them. This remedy might answer very well for small plots. Large areas in
+cabbage, in proportion to their size are, as a rule, far less injured by
+insect enemies than small patches. The worm is of late years less
+troublesome in the North than formerly.
+
+
+
+
+CLUB OR STUMP FOOT AND MAGGOT.
+
+
+The great dread of every cabbage grower is a disease of the branching
+roots, producing a bunchy, gland-like enlargement, known in different
+localities under the name of club foot, stump foot, underground head,
+finger and thumb. The result is a check in the ascent of the sap, which
+causes a defective vitality. There are two theories as to the origin of
+club foot; one that it is a disease caused by poor soil, bad
+cultivation, and unsuitable manures; the other that the injury is done
+by an insect enemy, _Curculio contractus_. It is held by some that the
+maggots at the root are the progeny of the cabbage flea. This I doubt.
+This insect, "piercing the skin of the root, deposits its eggs in the
+holes, lives during a time on the sap of the plant, and then escapes and
+buries itself for a time in the soil."
+
+If the wart, or gland-like excrescence, is seen while transplanting,
+throw all such plants away, unless your supply is short; in such case,
+carefully trim off all the diseased portions with a sharp knife. If the
+disease is in the growing crop, it will be made evident by the drooping
+of the leaves under the mid-day sun, leaves of diseased plants drooping
+more than those of healthy ones, while they will usually have a bluer
+cast. Should this disease show itself, set the cultivator going
+immediately, and follow with the hoe, drawing up fresh earth around the
+plants, which will encourage them to form new fibrous roots; should they
+do this freely, the plants will be saved, as the attacks of the insect
+are usually confined to the coarse, branching roots. Should the disease
+prevail as late as when the plants have reached half their growth, the
+chances are decidedly against raising a paying crop.
+
+When the land planted is too wet, or the manure in the hill is too
+strong, this dreaded disease is liable to be found on any soil; but it
+is most likely to manifest itself on soils that have been previously
+cropped with cabbage, turnip, or some other member of the Brassica
+family.
+
+Farmers find that, as a rule, _it is not safe to follow cabbage, ruta
+baga, or any of the Brassica family, with cabbage, unless three or four
+years have intervened between the crops_; and I have known an instance
+in growing the Marblehead Mammoth, where, though five years had
+intervened, that portion of the piece occupied by the previous crop
+could be distinctly marked off by the presence of club-foot.
+
+Singular as it may appear, old gardens are an exception to this rule.
+While it is next to impossible to raise, in old gardens, a fair turnip,
+free from club-foot, cabbages may be raised year after year on the same
+soil with impunity, or, at least, with but trifling injury from that
+disease. This seems to prove, contrary to English authority, that
+club-foot in the turnip tribe is the effect of a different cause from
+the same disease in the cabbage family.
+
+There is another position taken by Stephens in his "Book of the Farm,"
+which facts seem to disprove. He puts forth the theory that "all such
+diseases arise from poverty of the soil, either from want of manure when
+the soil is naturally poor, or rendered effete by over-cropping." There
+is a farm on a neck of land belonging to this town (Marblehead, Mass.),
+which has peculiar advantages for collecting sea kelp and sea moss, and
+these manures are there used most liberally, particularly in the
+cultivation of cabbage, from eight to twelve cords of rotten kelp, which
+is stronger than barn manure, and more suitable food for cabbage, being
+used to the acre. A few years ago, on a change of tenants, the new
+incumbent heavily manured a piece for cabbage, and planted it; but, as
+the season advanced, stump-foot developed in every cabbage on one side
+of the piece, while all the remainder were healthy. Upon inquiry, he
+learned that, by mistake, he had overlapped the cabbage plot of last
+season just so far as the stump-foot extended. In this instance, it
+could not have been that the cabbage suffered for want of food; for, not
+only was the piece heavily manured that year and the year previous, but
+it had been liberally manured through a series of years, and, to a large
+extent, with the manure which, of all others, the cabbage tribe delight
+in, rotten kelp and sea mosses. I have known other instances where soil,
+naturally quite strong, and kept heavily manured for a series of years,
+has shown stump-foot when cabbage were planted, with intervals of two
+and three years between. My theory is, that the _mere presence of the
+cabbage_ causes stump-foot on succeeding crops grown on the same soil.
+This is proved by the fact that where a piece of land in grass, close
+adjoining a piece of growing cabbage, had been used for stripping them
+for market, when this was broken up the next season and planted to
+cabbage, stump-foot appeared only on that portion where the waste leaves
+fell the year previous. I have another instance to the same point, told
+me by an observing farmer, that, on a piece of sod land, on which he ran
+his cultivator the year previous, when turning his horse every time he
+had cultivated a row, he had stump-footed cabbage the next season just
+as far as that cultivator went, dragging, of course, a few leaves and a
+little earth from the cabbage piece with it. Still, though the mere
+presence of cabbage causes stump-foot, it is a fact, that, under certain
+conditions, cabbage can be grown on the same piece of land year after
+year successfully, with but very little trouble from stump-foot. In this
+town (Marblehead), though, as I have stated, we cannot, on our farms,
+follow cabbage with cabbage, even with the highest of manuring and
+cultivation, yet in the gardens of the town, on the same kind of soil
+(and our soil is green stone and syenite, not naturally containing
+lime), there are instances where cabbage has been successfully followed
+by cabbage, on the same spot, for a quarter of a century and more. In
+the garden of an aged citizen of this town, cabbages have been raised
+_on the same spot of land_ for over half a century.
+
+The cause of stump foot cannot, therefore, be found in the poverty of
+the soil, either from want of manure or its having been rendered effete
+from over cropping. It is evident that by long cultivation soils
+gradually have diffused through them something that proves inimical to
+the disease that produces stump foot. I will suggest as probable that
+the protection is afforded by the presence of some alkali that old
+gardens are constantly acquiring through house waste which is always
+finding its way there, particularly the slops from the sink, which
+abound in potash. This is rendered further probable from the fact given
+by Mr. Peter Henderson, that, on soils in this vicinity, naturally
+abounding in lime, cabbage can be raised year following year with almost
+immunity from stump foot. He ascribes this to the effects of lime in
+the soil derived from marine shells, and recommends that lime from bones
+be used to secure the same protection; but the lime that enters into the
+composition of marine shells is for the most part carbonate of lime,
+whereas the greater portion of that which enters into the composition of
+bones is phosphate of lime. Common air-slaked lime is almost pure
+carbonate of lime, and hence comes nearer to the composition of marine
+shells than lime from bones, and, being much cheaper, would appear to be
+preferable.
+
+An able farmer told me that by using wood ashes liberally he could
+follow with cabbage the next season on the same piece. One experiment of
+my own in this direction did not prove successful, where ashes at the
+rate of two hundred bushels to the acre were used; and I have an
+impression that I have read of a like want of success after quite
+liberal applications of lime. In a more recent experiment, on a gravelly
+loam on one of my seed farms in Middleton, Mass., where two hundred
+bushels of unleached ashes were used per acre, three-fourths broadcast,
+I have had complete success, raising as good a crop as I ever grew the
+second year on the same land, without a single stump foot on half an
+acre. Still, it remains evident, I think, that nature prevents stump
+foot by the diffusing of alkalies through the soil, and I mistrust that
+the reason why we sometimes fail with the same remedies is that we have
+them mixed, rather than intimately combined, with the particles of soil.
+
+The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by a maggot, though
+there is no club root present. A remedy for this is said to be in the
+burying of a small piece of bi-sulphide of carbon within a few inches
+of the diseased plant. I have never tried it, but know that there is no
+better insecticide.
+
+As I have stated under another head, an attack of club foot is almost
+sure to follow the use of pure hog manure, whether it be used broadcast
+or in the hill. About ten years ago I ventured to use hog manure nearly
+pure, spread broadcast and ploughed in. Stump foot soon showed itself. I
+cultivated and hoed the cabbage thoroughly; then, as they still appeared
+sickly, I had the entire piece thoroughly dug over with a six-tined
+fork, pushing it as deep or deeper into the soil than the plough had
+gone, to bring up the manure to the surface; but all was of no use; I
+lost the entire crop. Yet, on another occasion, stable manure on which
+hogs had been kept at the rate of two hogs to each animal, gave me one
+of the finest lots of cabbage I ever raised.
+
+
+
+
+CARE OF THE GROWING CROP.
+
+
+As soon as the young plants are large enough to be seen with the naked
+eye, in with the cultivator and go and return once in each row, being
+careful not to have any lumps of earth cover the plants. Follow the
+cultivator immediately with the hoe, loosening the soil about the hills.
+The old rule with farmers is to cultivate and hoe cabbage three times
+during their growth, and it is a rule that works very well where the
+crop is in good growing condition; but if the manure is deficient, the
+soil bakes, or the plants show signs of disease, then cultivate and hoe
+once or twice extra. "Hoe cabbage when wet," is another farmer's axiom.
+In a small garden patch the soil may be stirred among the plants as
+often as may be convenient: it can do no harm; cabbages relish tending,
+though it is not necessary to do this every day, as one enthusiastic
+cultivator evidently thought, who declared that, by hoeing his cabbages
+every morning, he had succeeded in raising capital heads.
+
+If a season of drouth occurs when the cabbages have begun to head, the
+heads will harden prematurely; and then should a heavy rain fall, they
+will start to make a new growth, and the consequence will be many of
+them will split. Split or bursted cabbage are a source of great loss to
+the farmer, and this should be carefully guarded against by going
+frequently over the piece when the heads are setting, and starting every
+cabbage that appears to be about mature. A stout-pronged potato hoe
+applied just under the leaves, and a pull given sufficient to start the
+roots on one side, will accomplish what is needed. If cabbage that have
+once been started seem still inclined to burst, start the roots on the
+other side. Instead of a hoe they may be pushed over with the foot, or
+with the hand. Frequently, heads that are thus started will grow to
+double the size they had attained when about to burst. There is a marked
+difference in this habit in different varieties of cabbage. I find that
+the Hard-heading is less inclined to burst its head than any of the
+kinds I raise.
+
+
+
+
+MARKETING THE CROP.
+
+
+When preparing for market cabbages that have been kept over winter,
+particularly if they are marketed late in the season, the edges of the
+leaves of some of the heads will be found to be more or less decayed; do
+not strip such leaves off, but with a sharp knife cut clean off the
+decayed edges. The earlier the variety the sooner it needs to be
+marketed, for, as a rule, cabbages push their shoots in the spring in
+the order of their earliness. If they have not been sufficiently
+protected from the cold, the stumps will often rot off close to the
+head, and sometimes the rot will include the part of the stump that
+enters the head. If the watery-looking portion can be cut clean out, the
+head is salable; otherwise it will be apt to have an unpleasant flavor
+when cooked. As a rule, cabbages for marketing should be trimmed into as
+compact a form as possible; the heads should be cut off close to the
+stump, leaving two or three spare leaves to protect them. They may be
+brought out of the piece in bushel baskets, and be piled on the wagon as
+high as a hay stack, being kept in place by a stout canvas sheet tied
+closely down. In the markets of Boston, in the fall of the year, they
+are usually sold at a price agreed upon by the hundred head; this will
+vary not only with the size and quality of the cabbage, but with the
+season, the crop, and the quality in market on that particular day.
+Within a few years I have known the range of price for the Stone Mason
+or Fottler cabbage, equal in size and quality, to be from $3 to $17 per
+hundred; for the Marblehead Mammoth from $6 to $25 per hundred. Cabbages
+brought to market in the spring are usually sold by weight or by the
+barrel, at from $1 to $4 per hundred pounds.
+
+The earliest cabbages carried to market sometimes bring extraordinary
+prices; and this has created a keen competition among market gardeners,
+each striving to produce the earliest, a difference of a week in
+marketing oftentimes making a difference of one half in the profits of
+the crop. Capt. Wyman, who controlled the Early Wyman cabbage for
+several years, sold some seasons thirty thousand heads if my memory
+serves me, at pretty much his own price. As a rule, it is the very early
+and the very late cabbages that sell most profitably. Should the market
+for very late cabbages prove a poor one, the farmer is not compelled to
+sell them, no matter at what sacrifice, as would be the case a month
+earlier; he can pit them, and so keep them over to the early spring
+market which is almost always a profitable one. In marketing in spring
+it should be the aim to make sale before the crops of spring greens
+become plenty, as these replace the cabbage on many tables. By starting
+cabbage in hot beds a crop of celery or squashes may follow them the
+same season.
+
+
+
+
+KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER.
+
+
+In the comparatively mild climate of England, where there are but few
+days in the winter months that the ground remains frozen to any depth,
+the hardy cabbage grows all seasons of the year, and turnips left during
+winter standing in the ground are fed to sheep by yarding them over the
+different portions of the field. With the same impunity, in the southern
+portion of our own country, the cabbages are left unprotected during the
+winter months; and, in the warmer portions of the South they are
+principally a winter crop. As we advance farther North, we find that the
+degree of protection needed is afforded by running the plough along each
+side of the rows, turning the earth against them, and dropping a little
+litter on top of the heads. As we advance still farther northward, we
+find sufficient protection given by but little more than a rough roof of
+boards thrown over the heads, after removing the cabbages to a
+sheltered spot and setting them in the ground as near together as they
+will stand without being in contact, with the tops of the heads just
+level with the surface.
+
+In the latitude of central New England, cabbages are not secure from
+injury from frost with less than a foot of earth thrown over the heads.
+In mild winters a covering of half that depth will be sufficient; but as
+we have no prophets to foretell our mild winters, a foot of earth is
+safer than six inches. Where eel-grass can be procured along the sea
+coast, or there is straw or coarse hay to spare, the better plan is to
+cover with about six inches of earth, and when this is frozen
+sufficiently hard to bear a man's weight (which is usually about
+Thanksgiving time), to scatter over it the eel-grass, forest leaves,
+straw, or coarse hay, to the depth of another six inches. Eel-grass,
+which grows on the sandy flats under the ocean along the coast, is
+preferred to any other covering as it lays light and keeps in dead air
+which is a non-conductor of heat. Forest leaves are next in value; but
+snow and water are apt to get among these and freezing solid destroy
+most of their protecting value. When I use forest leaves, I cover them
+with coarse hay, and add branches of trees to prevent its being blown
+away. In keeping cabbages through the winter, three general facts should
+be borne in mind, viz.: that repeated freezing and thawing will cause
+them to rot; that excessive moisture or warmth will also cause rot;
+while a dry air, such as is found in most cellars, will abstract
+moisture from the leaves, injure the flavor of the cabbage, and cause
+some of the heads to wilt, and the harder heads to waste. In the Middle
+States we have mostly to fear the wet of winter, and the plan for
+keeping for that section should, therefore, have particularly in view
+protection from moisture, while in the Northern States we have to fear
+the cold of winter, and, consequently, our plan must there have
+specially in view protection from cold.
+
+When storing for winter, select a dry day, if possible, sufficiently
+long after rainy weather to have the leaves free of water,--otherwise
+they will spout it on to you, and make you the wettest and muddiest
+scarecrow ever seen off a farm,--then strip all the outer leaves from
+the head but the two last rows, which are needed to protect it. This may
+be readily done by drawing in these two rows toward the head with the
+left hand, while a blow is struck against the remaining leaves with the
+fist of the right hand. Next pull up the cabbages, which, if they are of
+the largest varieties, may be expeditiously done by a potato hoe. If
+they are not intended for seed purposes, stand the heads down and stumps
+up until the earth on the roots is somewhat dry, when it can be mostly
+removed by sharp blows against the stump given with a stout stick. In
+loading do not bruise the heads. Select the place for keeping them in a
+dry, level location, and, if in the North, a southern exposure, where no
+water can stand and there can be no wash. To make the pit, run the
+plough along from two to four furrows, and throw out the soil with the
+shovel to the requisite depth, which may be from six to ten inches; now,
+if the design is to roof over the pit, the cabbages may be put in as
+thickly as they will stand; if the heads are solid they may be either
+head up or stump up, and two layers deep; but if the heads are soft,
+then heads up and one deep, and not crowded very close, that they may
+have room to make heads during the winter. Having excavated an area
+twelve by six feet, set a couple of posts in the ground midway at each
+end, projecting about five feet above the surface; connect the two by a
+joist secured firmly to the top of each, and against this, extending to
+the ground just outside the pit, lay slabs, boards or poles, and cover
+the roof that will be thus formed with six inches of straw or old hay,
+and, if in the North, throw six or eight inches of earth over this.
+Leave one end open for entrance and to air the pit, closing the other
+end with straw or hay. In the North close both ends, opening one of them
+occasionally in mild weather.
+
+When cabbages are pitted on a large scale this system of roofing is too
+costly and too cumbersome. A few thousand may be kept in a cool root
+cellar, by putting one layer heads down, and standing another layer
+heads up between these. Within a few years farmers in the vicinity of
+Lowell, Mass., have preserved their cabbages over winter, on a large
+scale, by a new method, with results that have been very satisfactory.
+They cut off that portion of the stump which contains the root; strip
+off most of the outer leaves, and then pile the cabbages in piles, six
+or eight feet high, in double rows, with boards to keep them apart, in
+cool cellars, which are built half out of ground. The temperature of
+these, by the judicious opening and closing of windows, is kept as
+nearly as possibly at the freezing point. The common practice in the
+North, when many thousands are to be stored for winter and spring sales,
+is to select a southern exposure having the protection of a fence or
+wall, if practicable, and, turning furrows with the plough, throw out
+the earth with shovels, to the depth of about six inches; the cabbages,
+stripped as before described, are then stored closely together, and
+straw or coarse hay is thrown over them to the depth of a foot or
+eighteen inches. Protected thus they are accessible for market at any
+time during the winter. If the design is to keep them over till spring,
+the covering may be first six inches of earth, to be followed, as cold
+increases, with six inches of straw, litter, or eel-grass. This latter
+is my own practice, with the addition of leaving a ridge of earth
+between every three or four rows, to act as a support and keep the
+cabbages from falling over. I am, also, careful to bring the cabbages to
+the pit as soon as pulled, with the earth among the roots as little
+disturbed as possible; and, should the roots appear to be dry, to throw
+a little earth over them after the cabbages are set in the trench. The
+few loose leaves remaining will prevent the earth from sifting down
+between the heads, and the air chambers thus made answer a capital
+purpose in keeping out the cold, as air is one of the best
+non-conductors of heat. It is said that muck-soil, when well drained, is
+an excellent one to bury cabbage in, as its antiseptic properties
+preserve them from decay. If the object is to preserve the cabbage for
+market purposes only, the heads may be buried in the same position in
+which they grew, or they may be inverted, the stump having no value in
+itself; but if for seed purposes, they must be buried head up, as,
+whatever injures the stump, spoils the whole cabbage for that object. I
+store between ten and fifty thousand heads annually to raise seed from,
+and carry them through till planting time with a degree of success
+varying from a loss, for seed purposes, of from one-half to thirty-three
+per cent. of the number buried; but, if handled early in spring, many
+that would be worthless for seed purposes, could be profitably marketed.
+A few years since, I buried a lot with a depth varying from one to four
+feet, and found, on uncovering them in the spring, that all had kept,
+and apparently equally well. In the winter of 1868, excessively cold
+weather came very early and unexpectedly, before my cabbage plot had
+received its full covering of litter. The consequence was, the frost
+penetrated so deep that it froze through the heads into the stumps, and,
+when spring came, a large portion of them came out spoiled for seed
+purposes, though most of them sold readily in the market. A cabbage is
+rendered worthless for seed when the frost strikes through the stump
+where it joins the head; and though, to the unpractised eye, all may
+appear right, yet, if the heart of the stump has a water-soaked
+appearance on being cut into, it will almost uniformly decay just below
+the head in the course of a few weeks after having been planted out. If
+there is a probability that the stumps have been frozen through, examine
+the plot early, and, if it proves so, sell the cabbages for eating
+purposes, no matter how sound and handsome the heads look; if you delay
+until time for planting out the cabbage for seed, meanwhile much waste
+will occur. I once lost heavily in Marblehead Mammoth cabbage by having
+them buried on a hill-side with a gentle slope. In the course of the
+winter they fell over on their sides, which let down the soil from
+above, and, closing the air-chambers between them, brought the huge
+heads into a mass, and the result was, a large proportion of them rotted
+badly. At another time, I lost a whole plot by burying them in soil
+between ledges of rock, which kept the ground very wet when spring
+opened; the consequence was, every cabbage rotted. If the heads are
+frozen more than two or three leaves deep before they are pitted they
+will not come out so handsome in the spring; but cabbages are very
+hardy, and they readily rally from a little freezing, either in the open
+ground or after they are buried, though it is best, when they are frozen
+in the open ground, to let them remain there until the frost comes out
+before removing them, if it can be done without too much risk of
+freezing still deeper, as they handle better then, for, being tougher,
+the leaves are not so easily broken. If the soil is frozen to any depth
+before the cabbages are removed, the roots will be likely to be injured
+in the pulling, a matter of no consequence if the cabbages are intended
+for market, but of some importance if they are for seed raising. Large
+cabbages are more easily pulled by giving them a little twist; if for
+seed purposes, this should be avoided, as it injures the stump. A small
+lot, that are to be used within a month, can be kept hung up by the
+stump in the cellar of a dwelling-house; they will keep in this way
+until spring; but the outer leaves will dry and turn yellow, the heads
+shrink some in size, and be apt to lose in quality. Some practise
+putting clean chopped straw in the bottom of a box or barrel, wetting
+it, and covering with heads trimmed ready for cooking, adding again wet
+straw and a layer of heads, so alternating until the barrel or box is
+filled, after which it is headed up and kept in a cool place, at, or a
+little below, the freezing point. No doubt this is an excellent way to
+preserve a small lot, as it has the two essentials to success, keeping
+them cool and moist.
+
+Instead of burying them in an upright position, after a deep furrow has
+been made the cabbages are sometimes laid on their sides two deep, with
+their roots at the bottom of the furrow, and covered with earth in this
+position. Where the winter climate is so mild that a shallow covering
+will be sufficient protection, this method saves much labor.
+
+
+
+
+HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER.
+
+
+When a piece of drumhead has been planted very late (sometimes they are
+planted on ground broken up after a crop of hay has been taken from it
+the same season), there will be a per cent. of the plants when the
+growing season is over that have not headed. With care almost all of
+these can be made to head during the winter. A few years ago I selected
+my seed heads from a large piece and then sold the first "pick" of what
+remained at ten cents a head, the second at eight cents, and so down
+until all were taken for which purchasers were willing to give one cent
+each. Of course, after such a thorough selling out as this, there was
+not much in the shape of a head left. I now had what remained pulled up
+and carted away, doubtful whether to feed them to the cows or to set
+them out to head up during winter. As they were very healthy plants in
+the full vigor of growth, having rudimentary heads just gathering in, I
+determined to set them out. I had a pit dug deep enough to bring the
+tops of the heads, when the plants were stood upright as they grew, just
+above the surface of the ground; I then stood the cabbages in without
+breaking off any of the leaves, keeping the roots well covered with
+earth, having the plants far enough apart not to crowd each other very
+much, though so near as to press somewhat together the two outer
+circles of leaves. They were allowed to remain in this condition until
+it was cold enough to freeze the ground an inch in thickness, when a
+covering of coarse hay was thrown over them a couple of inches thick,
+and, as the cold increased in intensity, this covering was increased to
+ten or twelve inches in thickness, the additions being made at two or
+three intervals. In the spring I uncovered the lot, and found that
+nearly every plant had headed up. I sold the heads for four cents a
+pound; and these refuse cabbages averaged me about ten cents a head,
+which was the price my best heads brought me in the fall. I have seen
+thousands of cabbages in one lot, the refuse of several acres that had
+been planted on sod land broken up the same season a crop of hay had
+been taken from it, made to head by this course, and sold in the spring
+for $1.30 per barrel. When there is a large lot of such cabbages the
+most economical way to plant them will be in furrows made by the plough.
+Most of the bedding used in covering them, if it be as coarse as it
+ought to be to admit as much air as possible while it should not mat
+down on the cabbages, will, with care in drying, be again available for
+covering another season, or remain suitable for bedding purposes. These
+"winter-headed" cabbages, as they are called in the market, are not so
+solid and have more shrinkage to them than those headed in the open
+ground; hence they will not bear transportation as well, neither will
+they keep as long when exposed to the air. The effect of wintering
+cabbage by burying in the soil is to make them exceedingly tender for
+table use.
+
+
+
+
+VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.
+
+
+If a piece of land is planted with seed grown from two heads of cabbage
+the product will bear a striking resemblance to the two parent cabbages,
+with a third variety which will combine the characteristics of these
+two, yet the resemblance will be somewhat modified at times by a little
+more manure, a little higher culture, a little better location, and the
+addition of an individuality that particular vegetables occasionally
+take upon themselves which we designate by the word "sport." The
+"sports" when they occur are fixed and perpetuated with remarkable
+readiness in the cabbage family, as is proved by a great number of
+varieties in cultivation, which are the numerous progeny of one
+ancestor. The catalogues of the English and French seedsmen contain long
+lists of varieties, many of which (and this is especially true of the
+early kinds) are either the same variety under a different name or are
+different "strains" of the same variety produced by the careful
+selections of prominent market gardeners through a series of years.
+
+Every season I experiment with foreign and American varieties of cabbage
+to learn the characteristics of the different kinds, their comparative
+earliness, size, shape, and hardness of head, length of stump, and such
+other facts as would prove of value to market gardeners. There is one
+fact that every careful experimenter soon learns, that one season will
+not teach all that can be known relative to a variety, and that a number
+of specimens of each kind must be raised to enable one to make a fair
+comparison. It is amusing to read the dicta which appear in the
+agricultural press from those who have made but a single experiment with
+some vegetable; they proclaim more after a single trial than a cautious
+experimenter would dare to declare after years spent in careful
+observation. The year 1869 I raised over sixty varieties of cabbage,
+importing nearly complete suites of those advertised by the leading
+English and French seed houses, and collecting the principal kinds
+raised in this country. In the year 1888, I grew eighty-five different
+varieties and strains of cabbages and cauliflowers. I do not propose
+describing all these in this treatise or their comparative merits; of
+some of them I have yet something to learn, but I will endeavor to
+introduce with my description such notes as I think will prove of value
+to my fellow farmers and market gardeners.
+
+I will here say in general of the class of early cabbages, that most of
+them have elongated heads between ovoid and conical in form. They appear
+to lack in this country the sweetness and tenderness that characterize
+some varieties of our drumhead, and, consequently, in the North when the
+drumhead enters the market there is but a limited call for them.
+
+It may be well here to note a fundamental distinction between the
+drumhead cabbage of England and those of this country. In England the
+drumhead class are almost wholly raised to feed to stock. I venture the
+conjecture that owing in part, or principally, to the fact European
+gardeners have never had the motive, and, consequently, have never
+developed the full capacity of the drumhead as exampled by the fine
+varieties raised in this country. The securing of sorts reliable for
+heading being with them a matter of secondary consideration, seed is
+raised from stumps or any refuse heads that may be standing when spring
+comes round. For this reason English drumhead cabbage seed is better
+suited to raise a mass of leaves than heads, and always disappoints our
+American farmers who buy it because it is cheap with the expectation of
+raising cabbage for market. English-grown drumhead cabbage seed is
+utterly worthless for use in this country except to raise greens or
+collards.
+
+The following are foreign varieties that are accepted in this country as
+standards, and for years have been more or less extensively cultivated:
+EARLY YORK, EARLY OXHEART, EARLY WINNIGSTADT, RED DUTCH, RED DRUMHEAD.
+In my experience as a seed dealer, the Sugar Loaf and Oxheart are losing
+ground in the farming community, the Early Jersey Wakefield having, to a
+large extent, replaced them.
+
+~Early York.~ Heads nearly ovoid, rather soft, with few waste leaves
+surrounding them, which are of a bright green color. Reliable for
+heading. Stump rather short. Plant two feet by eighteen inches. This
+cabbage has been cultivated in England over a hundred years. LITTLE
+PIXIE with me is earlier than Early York, as reliable for heading,
+heads much harder, and is of better flavor; the heads do not grow quite
+as large.
+
+~Early Oxheart.~ Heads nearly egg-shaped, small, hard, few waste leaves,
+stumps short. A little later than Early York. Have the rows two feet
+apart, and the plants eighteen inches apart in the row.
+
+~Early Winnigstadt.~ (A German cabbage.) Heads nearly conical in shape,
+having usually a twist of leaf at the top; larger than Oxheart, are
+harder than any of the early oblong heading cabbages; stumps middling
+short. Matures about ten days later than Early York. The Winnigstadt is
+remarkably reliable for heading, being not excelled in this respect when
+the seed has been raised with care, by any cabbage grown. It is a
+capital sort for early market outside our large cities, where the very
+early kinds are not so eagerly craved. It is so reliable for heading,
+that it will often make fine heads where other sorts fail; and I would
+advise all who have not succeeded in their efforts to grow cabbage, to
+try this before giving up their attempts. It is raised by some for
+winter use, and where the drumheads are not so successfully raised, I
+would advise my farmer friends to try the Winnigstadt, as the heads are
+so hard that they keep without much waste. Have rows two feet apart, and
+plant twenty inches to two feet apart in the rows.
+
+~Red Dutch.~ Heads nearly conical, medium sized, hard, of a very deep
+red; outer leaves numerous, and not so red as the head, being somewhat
+mixed with green; stump rather long. This cabbage is usually planted too
+late; it requires nearly the whole season to mature. It is used for
+pickling, or cut up fine as a salad, served with vinegar and pepper.
+This is a very tender cabbage, and, were it not for its color, would be
+an excellent sort to boil; to those who have a mind to eat it with their
+eyes shut, this objection will not apply.
+
+~Red Drumhead.~ Like the preceding, with the exception that the heads
+grow round, or nearly so, are harder, and of double the size. It is very
+difficult to raise seed from this cabbage in this country. I am
+acquainted with five trials, made in as many different years, two of
+which I made myself, and all were nearly utter failures, the yield, when
+the hardest heads were selected, being at about the rate of two great
+spoonfuls of seed from every twenty cabbages. French seed-growers are
+more successful, otherwise this seed would have to sell at a far higher
+figure in the market than any other sort.
+
+~The Little Pixie.~ has much to recommend it, in earliness, quality,
+reliability for heading, and hardness of the head; earlier than Early
+York, though somewhat smaller.
+
+Among those that deserve to be heartily welcomed and grow in favor, are
+the EARLY ULM SAVOY (for engraving and description of which see
+under head of Savoy), and the ST. DENNIS DRUMHEAD, a late,
+short-stumped sort, setting a large, round, very solid head, as large,
+but harder, than Premium Flat Dutch. The leaves are of a bluish-green,
+and thicker than those of most varieties of drumhead. Our brethren in
+Canada think highly of this cabbage, and if we want to try a new
+drumhead, I will speak a good word for this one.
+
+~Early Schweinfurt~, or ~Schweinfurt Quintal~, is an excellent early
+drumhead for family use; the heads range in size from ten to eighteen
+inches in diameter, varying with the conditions of cultivation more than
+any other cabbage I am acquainted with. They are flattish round, weigh
+from three to nine pounds when well grown, are very symmetrical in
+shape, standing apart from the surrounding leaves. They are not solid,
+though they have the finished appearance that solidity gives; they are
+remarkably tender, as though blanched, and of very fine flavor. It is
+among the earliest of drumheads, maturing at about the same time as the
+Early Winnigstadt. As an early drumhead for the family garden, it has no
+superior; and where the market is near, and does not insist that a
+cabbage head must be hard to be good, it has proved a very profitable
+market sort.
+
+The following are either already standard American varieties of cabbage,
+or such as are likely soon to become so; very possibly there are two or
+three other varieties or strains that deserve to be included in the
+list. I give all that have proved to be first class in my locality:
+EARLY WAKEFIELD, EARLY WYMAN, EARLY SUMMER, ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING,
+SUCCESSION, WARREN, VANDERGAW, PEERLESS, NEWARK, FLAT DUTCH, PREMIUM
+FLAT DUTCH, STONE MASON, LARGE LATE DRUMHEAD, MARBLEHEAD MAMMOTH
+DRUMHEAD, AMERICAN GREEN GLAZED, FOTTLER'S DRUMHEAD, BERGEN DRUMHEAD,
+DRUMHEAD SAVOY, and AMERICAN GREEN GLOBE SAVOY. All of these varieties,
+as I have previously stated, are but improvements of foreign kinds; but
+they are so far improved through years of careful selection and
+cultivation, that, as a rule, they appear quite distinct from the
+originals when grown side by side with them, and this distinction is
+more or less recognized, in both English and American catalogues, by the
+adjective "American" or "English" being added after varieties bearing
+the same name.
+
+~Early Wakefield~, sometimes called ~Early Jersey Wakefield.~ Heads
+mostly nearly conical in shape but sometimes nearly round, of good size
+for early, very reliable for heading; stumps short. A very popular early
+cabbage in the markets of Boston and New York. Plant two and a half feet
+by two feet. There are two strains of this cabbage, one a little later
+and larger than the other.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Early Wyman.~ This cabbage is named after Capt. Wyman, of Cambridge,
+the originator. Like Early Wakefield the heads are usually somewhat
+conical, but sometimes nearly round; in structure they are compact. In
+earliness it ranks about with the Early Wakefield, and making heads of
+double the size, it has a high value as an early cabbage. Capt. Wyman
+had entire control of this cabbage until within the past few years, and,
+consequently, has held Boston Market in his own hands, to the chagrin of
+his fellow market gardeners, raising some seasons as many as thirty
+thousand heads. Have the rows from two to two and a half feet apart, and
+the plants from twenty to twenty-four inches apart in the row. Crane's
+Early is a cross between the Wyman and Wakefield, intermediate in size
+and earliness.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Premium Flat Dutch.~ Large, late variety; heads either round or flat,
+on the top (varying with different strains); rather hard; color bluish
+green; leaves around heads rather numerous; towards the close of the
+season, the edge of some of the exterior leaves and the top of the heads
+assume a purple cast. The edges of the exterior leaves, and of the two
+or three that make the outside of the head, are quite ruffled, so that
+when grown side by side with Stone Mason, this distinction between the
+habit of growth of the two varieties is noticeable at quite a distance.
+Stumps short; reliable for heading. Have the rows three feet apart, and
+the plants from two and a half to three feet apart in the rows. This
+cabbage is very widely cultivated, and, in many respects, is an
+excellent sort to raise for late marketing. There are several strains of
+it catalogued by different seedsmen under various names, such as Sure
+Head, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Stone Mason.~ An improvement on the Mason, which cabbage was selected
+by Mr. John Mason of Marblehead, from a number of varieties of cabbage
+that came from a lot of seed purchased and planted as Savoys. Mr. John
+Stone afterwards improved upon the Mason cabbage, by increasing the size
+of the heads. Different growers differ in their standard of a Stone
+Mason cabbage, in earliness and lateness, and in the size, form, and
+hardness of the head. But all these varieties agree in the
+characteristics of being very reliable for heading, in having heads
+which are large, very hard, very tender, rich and sweet; short stumps,
+and few waste leaves. The color of the leaves varies from a bluish green
+to a pea-green, and the structure from nearly smooth to much blistered.
+In their color and blistering some specimens have almost a Savoy cast.
+The heads of the best varieties of Stone Mason range in weight from six
+to twenty-five pounds, the difference turning mostly on soil, manure,
+and cultivation.
+
+The Stone Mason is an earlier cabbage than Premium Flat Dutch, has fewer
+waste leaves, and side by side, under high cultivation, grows to an
+equal or larger size, while it makes heads that are decidedly harder and
+sweeter. These cabbages are equally reliable for heading. I am inclined
+to the opinion that under poor cultivation the Premium Flat Dutch will
+do somewhat better than the Stone Mason.
+
+Until the introduction of Fottler's Drumhead it was the standard
+drumhead cabbage in the markets of Boston and other large cities of the
+North. Have the rows three feet apart, and the plants from two to three
+feet apart in the row.
+
+~Large Late Drumhead.~ Heads large, round, sometimes flattened at the
+top, close and firm; loose leaves numerous; stems short; reliable for
+heading, hardy, and a good keeper. The name "Large Late Drumhead"
+includes varieties raised by several seedsmen in this country, all of
+which resemble each other in the above characteristics, and differ in
+but minor points. Have rows three feet apart, and plants from two and a
+half to three feet apart in the row.
+
+~Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.~ This is the largest of the cabbage
+family, having sometimes been grown to weigh over ninety pounds to the
+plant. It originated in Marblehead, Mass., being produced by Mr. Alley,
+probably from the Mason, by years of high cultivation and careful
+selection of seed stock. I introduced this cabbage and the Stone Mason
+to the general public many years ago, and it has been pretty thoroughly
+disseminated throughout the United States. Heads varying in shape
+between hemispherical and spherical, with but few waste leaves
+surrounding them; size very large, varying from fifteen to twenty inches
+in diameter, and, in some specimens, they have grown to the
+extraordinary dimensions of twenty-four inches. In good soil, and with
+the highest culture, this variety has attained an average weight of
+thirty pounds by the acre. Quality, when well grown, remarkably sweet
+and tender, as would be inferred from the rapidity of its growth.
+Cultivate in rows four feet apart, and allow four feet between the
+plants in the rows. Sixty tons of this variety have been raised from a
+single acre.
+
+~American Green Glazed.~ Heads loose, though rather large, with a great
+body of waste leaves surrounding them; quality poor; late; stump long.
+This cabbage was readily distinguished among all the varieties in my
+experimental plot by the deep, rich green of the leaves, with their
+bright lustre as though varnished. It is grown somewhat extensively in
+the South, as it is believed not to be so liable to injury from insects
+as other varieties. Plant two and a half feet apart each way. I would
+advise my Southern friends to try the merits of other kinds before
+adopting this poor affair. I know, through my correspondence, that the
+Mammoth has done well as far South as Louisiana and Cuba, and the
+Fottler, in many sections of the South, has given great satisfaction.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Fottler's Early Drumhead.~ Several years ago a Boston seedsman imported
+a lot of cabbage seed from Europe, under the name of Early Brunswick
+Short Stemmed. It proved to be a large heading and very early Drumhead.
+The heads were from eight to eighteen inches in diameter nearly flat,
+hard, sweet, and tender in quality; few waste leaves; stump short. In
+earliness it was about a fortnight ahead of the Stone Mason. It was so
+much liked by the market gardeners that the next season he ordered a
+larger quantity; but the second importation, though ordered and sent
+under the same name, proved to be a different and inferior kind, and the
+same result followed one or two other importations. The two gardeners
+who received seed of the first importation brought to market a fine,
+large Drumhead, ten days or a fortnight ahead of their fellows. The seed
+of the true stock was eagerly bought up by the Boston market gardeners,
+most of it at _five dollars an ounce_. After an extensive trial on a
+large scale by the market farmers around Boston, and by farmers in
+various parts of the United States, Fottler's Cabbage has given great
+satisfaction, and become a universal favorite, and when once known it,
+and especially the improved strain of it, known as Deep Head, is fast
+replacing some of the old varieties of Drumhead. Very reliable for
+heading.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Vandergaw Cabbage.~ This new Long Island Cabbage must be classed as A
+No. 1 for the midsummer and late market. It is as sure to head as the
+Succession, and has some excellent characteristics in common.
+
+It makes large, green heads, hard, tender, and crisp. This is an
+acquisition.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~The Warren Cabbage.~ This first-class cabbage is closely allied to, but
+an improvement on, the old Mason Cabbage of twenty-five years ago. It
+makes a head deep, round, and very hard, the outer leaves wrapping it
+over very handsomely. In reliability for heading no cabbage surpasses
+it; a field of them when in their prime is as pretty a sight as a
+cabbage man would wish to see. It comes in as early as some strains of
+Fottler, and a little earlier than others. A capital sort to succeed the
+Early Summer. The heads being very thick through, and nearly round, make
+it an excellent sort to carry through the winter, as it "peels" well, as
+cabbage-growers say. Ten inches in diameter, in size it is just about
+right for profitable marketing. A capital sort, exceedingly popular
+among market-man in this vicinity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Early Bleichfeld Cabbage.~ I find the Bleichfeld to be among the
+earliest of the large, hard-heading Drumheads, maturing earlier than the
+Fottler's Brunswick. The heads are large, very solid, tender when
+cooked, and of excellent flavor. The color is a lighter green than most
+varieties and it is as reliable for heading as any cabbage I have ever
+grown. The above engraving I have had made from a photograph of a
+specimen grown on my grounds.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Danish Drumhead Cabbage.~ In 1879, Mr. Edward Abelgoord wrote me from
+Canada, that he raised a large Drumhead Cabbage, the seed of which was
+brought from Denmark, which was the best kind of cabbage that he had
+seen in that latitude (46 deg.), being very valuable for the extreme North.
+It was earlier than Fottler's Drumhead, and made large, flat heads, of
+excellent flavor, and was so reliable for heading. I raised a field of
+this new cabbage, and it proved a large, flat, early Drumhead, very
+reliable for heading.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~The Reynolds Early Cabbage.~ In the year 1875, Mr. Franklin Reynolds,
+of this town, crossed the Cannon-Ball Cabbage on the Schweinfurt
+Quintal, by carefully transferring the pollen of the former on the
+latter, the stamens having first been removed, and immediately tying
+muslin around the impregnated blossoms to keep away all insects. The
+results were a few ripe seeds. These were carefully saved and planted
+the next season, when the product showed the characteristics of the two
+parents. The best heads were selected from the lot, and, from these,
+seeds were raised. Several selections were made of the choicest heads
+from year to year; and I now have the pleasure of introducing the
+results, _a new cabbage which combines the good qualities of both its
+parents_.
+
+The flavor of this new cabbage is rich, tender, and sweet, being
+superior to the general Drumhead class, making it a very superior
+variety for family use, and also for marketing when there is not a long
+transportation. None of the scores of varieties I have ever grown has a
+shorter stump than this; the heads appear to rest directly on the
+ground, and no one is surer to head.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~All-Seasons Cabbage.~ This new cabbage is the result of a cross made by
+a Long Island gardener between the Flat Dutch and a variety of Drumhead.
+The result is a remarkably large, early Drumhead, that matures close in
+time with the Early Summer, while it is from one third to one half
+larger. It is an excellent variety either as an early or late sort; the
+roundness of the head, leaving a thick, solid cabbage, should it become
+necessary, as is often the case with those marketed in the spring, to
+peel off the outer layer of leaves. Heads large in size, solid and
+tender, and rich flavored when cooked. It has already, in three years,
+verified the prophecy I made when sending it out, and become a standard
+variety in some localities.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage.~ I am not acquainted with any variety
+of cabbage (I believe I have raised about all the native and foreign
+varieties that have been catalogued) that makes so hard a head as does
+the "Hard-heading" when fully matured. Neither am I acquainted with any
+variety that is so late a keeper as is this; the German gardener, from
+whom I obtained it, said that it gave him, and his friends who had it,
+complete control of the Chicago market for about a fortnight after all
+other varieties had "played out." My own experience with it tends to
+confirm this statement, for under the same conditions it kept decidedly
+later than all my other varieties, was greener in color, and when
+planted out they were so late to push seed-shoots that I almost
+despaired of getting a crop of seed. I find, also, that they are much
+less inclined to burst than any of the hard-heading varieties. Heads
+grow to a good market size, are more globular than Flat Dutch; and, as
+might be presumed, of great weight in proportion to their size. The
+color is a peculiar green, rather more of an olive than most kinds of
+cabbage. About a fortnight later than Flat Dutch. For late fall, winter,
+and spring sales plant 3 by 3 the first of June.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Early Deep-Head Cabbage.~ This is a valuable improvement on the Fottler
+made by years of careful selection and high cultivation by Mr. Alley of
+Marblehead, a famous cabbage grower, who, as the name indicates, has
+produced a deeper, rounder heading variety than the original Fottler,
+thus making what that was not, an excellent sort for winter and spring
+marketing. It has all the excellent traits of its parent in reliability
+for making large, handsome heads.
+
+~Bergen Drumhead.~ Heads round, rather flat on the top, solid; leaves
+stout, thick, and rather numerous; stump short. With me, under same
+cultivation, it is later than Stone Mason. It is tender and of good
+flavor. A popular sort in many sections, particularly in the markets of
+New York City. Have the plants three feet apart each way.
+
+
+
+
+SAVOY CABBAGES.
+
+
+The Savoys are the tenderest and richest-flavored of cabbages, though
+not always as sweet as a well-grown Stone Mason; nor is a Savoy grown on
+poor soil, or one that has been pinched by drouth, as tender as a Stone
+Mason that has been grown under favoring circumstances; yet it remains,
+as a rule, that the Savoy surpasses all other cabbages in tenderness,
+and in a rich, marrow-like flavor. The Savoys are also the hardiest of
+the cabbage tribe, enduring in the open field a temperature within
+sixteen degrees of zero without serious injury; and if the heads are not
+very hard they will continue to withstand repeated changes from freezing
+to thawing for a couple of months, as far north as the latitude of
+Boston. A degree of freezing improves them, and it is common in that
+latitude to let such as are intended for early winter use, in the
+family, remain standing in the open ground where they grew, cutting the
+heads as they are wanted.
+
+As a rule Savoys neither head as readily (the "Improved American Savoy"
+being an exception) nor do the heads grow as large as the Drumhead
+varieties; indeed, most of the kinds in cultivation are so unreliable in
+these respects as to be utterly worthless for market purposes, and
+nearly so for the kitchen garden.
+
+~The Drumhead Savoy.~ This, as the name implies, is the result of a
+cross between a Savoy and a Drumhead cabbage, partaking of the
+characteristics of each. Many of the cabbages sold in the market as
+Savoy are really this variety. One variety in my experimental garden,
+which I received as TOUR'S SAVOY (evidently a Drumhead variety
+of the Savoy), proved to be much like Early Schweinfurt in earliness and
+style of heading; the heads were very large, but quite loose in
+structure; I should think it would prove valuable for family use.
+
+It is a fact that does not appear to be generally known that we have
+among the Savoys some remarkably early sorts which rank with the
+earliest varieties of cabbage grown. Pancalier and Early Ulm Savoy are
+earlier than that old standard of earliness, Early York; Pancalier being
+somewhat earlier than Ulm.
+
+~Pancalier~ is characterized by very coarsely blistered leaves of the
+darkest-green color; the heads usually gather together, being the only
+exception I know of to the rule that cabbage heads are made up of
+overlapping leaves, wrapped closely together. It has a short stump, and
+with high cultivation is reliable for heading. The leaves nearest the
+head, though not forming a part of it, are quite tender, and may be
+cooked with the head. Plant fifteen by thirty inches.
+
+~Early Ulm Savoy~ is a few days later than Pancalier, and makes a larger
+head; the leaves are of a lighter green and not so coarsely blistered;
+stump short; head round; very reliable for heading. It has a capital
+characteristic in not being so liable as most varieties to burst the
+head and push the seed shoot immediately after the head is matured. For
+first early, I know no cabbages so desirable as these for the kitchen
+garden.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The ~Early Dwarf Savoy~ is a desirable variety of second early. The
+heads are rather flat in shape, and grow to a fair size. Stumps short;
+reliable for heading.
+
+~Improved American Savoy.~ Everything considered, this is the Savoy,
+"par excellence," for the market garden. It is a true Savoy, the heads
+grow to a large size, from six to ten inches in diameter, varying, of
+course, with soil, manure, and cultivation. In shape the heads are
+mostly globular, occasionally oblong, having but few waste leaves, and
+grow very solid. Stump short. In reliability for heading it is
+unsurpassed by any other cabbage.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~Golden Savoy~ differs from other varieties in the color of the head,
+which rises from the body of light green leaves, of a singular pale
+yellow color, as though blanched. The stumps are long, and the head
+rather small, a portion of these growing pointed. It is very late, not
+worth cultivating, except as a curiosity.
+
+~Norwegian Savoy.~ This is a singular half cabbage, half kale--at least,
+so it has proved under my cultivation. The leaves are long, narrow,
+tasselated, and somewhat blistered. The whole appearance is very
+singular and rather ornamental. I have tried this cabbage twice, but
+have never got beyond the possible promise of a head.
+
+~Victoria Savoy~, ~Russian Savoy~, and ~Cape Savoy~, tested in my
+experimental garden, did not prove desirable either for family use or
+for market purposes.
+
+~Feather Stemmed Savoy.~ This is a cross between the Savoy and Brussels
+sprouts, having the habit of growth of Brussels sprouts.
+
+
+
+
+OTHER VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.
+
+
+I will add notes on some other varieties which have been tested, from
+year to year, in my experimental plot. The results from tests of
+different strains of standard sorts, I have not thought it worth the
+while to record.
+
+~Cannon Ball.~ The heads are usually spherical, attaining to a diameter
+of from five to nine inches, with the surrounding leaves gathered rather
+closely around them; in hardness and relative weight it is excelled by
+but few varieties. Stump short. It delights in the highest cultivation
+possible. It is about a week later than Early York. In those markets
+where cabbages are sold by weight, it will pay to grow for market; it is
+a good cabbage for the family garden.
+
+~Early Cone~, of the Wakefield class, but with me not as early.
+
+~Garfield Pickling~, of late variety, of the conical class.
+
+~Cardinal Red.~ A large, late variety of red; but on my grounds, it is
+not equal to Red Drumhead.
+
+~Vilmorin's Early Flat Dutch.~ Not quite as large as Early Summer,
+though about as early and resembles it in shape of head.
+
+~Royal German Drumhead.~ Reliable for heading.
+
+~Large White Solid Magdeburg.~ A late Drumhead; short stumped; reliable
+for heading. Medium late.
+
+~Pak Choi.~ Evidently of the Kale class; no heads.
+
+~Chou de Burghlez~ and ~Chou de Milan~. These are coarse, loose, small
+heading varieties, allied to Kale. The latter is of the Savoy class.
+
+~Earliest Erfurt Blood-Red.~ Decidedly the earliest of the red cabbages.
+Very reliable for heading. A Drumhead; smaller than Red Drumhead. Very
+dark red.
+
+~Empress.~ Resembles Wyman in size and shape; but the heads are more
+pointed, and it makes head earlier. Heads well.
+
+~Schlitzer.~ This makes heads mostly shaped like the Winnigstadt, but a
+third larger. Its mottling of green and purple gives it a striking
+appearance. Early and very reliable for heading. Heads are not very
+hard; but, when cooked, are just about as tender and rich-flavored as
+the Savoy. Promises to be an excellent sort for family use.
+
+~Rothelburg.~ An early sure heading variety of the Drumhead class. Heads
+of medium size; resembling in shape Deep Head.
+
+~Sure Head.~ A strain of Flat Dutch. A late variety; heads deeper than
+Fottler, but with me not so reliable.
+
+~Dark Red Pointed.~ Resembles Winnigstadt in shape. About as late as Red
+Dutch, and not as desirable.
+
+~Bacalan Late.~ In shape resembles Winnigstadt. Grow a little wild.
+
+~Amack.~ A late variety. Heads generally nearly globular and quite hard.
+Very reliable for heading.
+
+~Bangholm.~ First of all. As early as the earliest, but very small,--not
+as large as Little Pixie.
+
+~Early Enfield Market.~
+
+~Tourleville.~ Heads resemble Wakefield in form; but, with me, are
+neither so large nor so large, and are more inclined to burst.
+
+~Danish Round Winter.~ A late variety; bearing deep, hard heads on long
+stumps.
+
+~Dwarf Danish.~ Late. Reliable to head; uneven in time of heading. Worth
+planting for market.
+
+~Danish Ball Drumhead.~ Heads not characterized by globular shape, but
+rather flattish. Irregular in length of stump.
+
+~Early Paris.~ Closely resembles Wakefield.
+
+~Very Early Etampes.~ Earlier than Wakefield. Shape partakes of both
+Oxheart and Wakefield.
+
+~Early Mohawk.~ Light green in color; a good header, but not so hard
+heading as Fottler. Appears to have a little of the Savoy cross in it.
+
+~Sure Head.~ A late variety of the Dutch class; reliable for heading;
+stump rather long.
+
+~Excelsior.~ A variety which is of the Fottler class, but makes smaller
+sized heads.
+
+~Louisville Drumhead.~ Of the flat Dutch type; nearly as early as Early
+Summer.
+
+~Early Advance.~ Of the Wakefield type. With me it is full as early as
+Wakefield, and considerably larger. Rather coarser in structure.
+
+~Market Garden.~ Of the Fottler class; very reliable for heading. Heads
+of good size, but rather coarser than the Deep Head.
+
+~Chase's Excelsior.~ A second early; much like Fottler; heads finely.
+
+~Bloomsdale Early Market.~ With me this is not as good a variety as
+Wakefield.
+
+~Berkshire Beauty.~ There appear to be fine possibilities in this
+cabbage, which have not yet been developed into uniformity.
+
+~Landredth's Extra Early.~ With me it does not prove as early as
+Wakefield, and does not head as well.
+
+~Bridgeport Late Drumhead.~ A large Drumhead; in size, between Stone
+Mason and Marblehead Mammoth. Reliable for heading, but does not head as
+hard as either of these varieties. Not inclined to burst.
+
+~Large French Oxheart~ closely resembles Early Oxheart, but grows to
+double the size, and is about ten days later; quality usually good.
+
+~Early Sugar Loaf.~ Heads shaped much like a loaf of sugar standing on
+its smaller end, resembling, as Burr well says, a head of Cos lettuce in
+its shape, and in the peculiar clasping of the leaves about the head.
+Heads rather hard, medium size; early, and tender. It is said not to
+stand the heat as well as most sorts.
+
+~Large Brunswick Short-Stemmed.~ (English seed.) Late, long-stumped,
+wild, plenty of leaves, almost no head; bears but a slight resemblance
+to Fottler's Drumhead.
+
+~Early Empress.~ Cabbages well; heads conical; early.
+
+~Robinson's Champion Ox Drumhead.~ Stump long; heads soft and not very
+large; wild.
+
+~English Winnigstadt.~ Long-stumped; irregular; not to be compared with
+French stock.
+
+~Blenheim.~ Early; heads mostly conical; of good size.
+
+~Shillings Queen.~ Early; heads conical; stumps long.
+
+~Carter's Superfine Early Dwarf.~ Surpasses in earliness and hardness of
+head. Closely allied to Little Pixie.
+
+~Enfield Market Improved.~ Most of the heads were flat; rather wild; not
+to be compared with Fottler.
+
+~Kemp's Incomparable.~ Long-headed; heads, when mature, do not appear to
+burst as readily as with most of the conical class.
+
+~Fielderkraut.~ Closely resembles Winnigstadt, with larger and longer
+heads and stump; requires more room than Winnigstadt.
+
+~Ramsay's Winter Drumhead.~ Closely resembles St. Dennis. I think it is
+the same.
+
+~Pomeranian Cabbage.~ Heads very long; quite large for a conical heading
+sort; very symmetrical and hard; color, yellowish-green. It handles
+well, and I should think would prove a good keeper. Medium early.
+
+~Alsacian Drumhead.~ Stump long; late; wild.
+
+~Marbled Bourgogne.~ Stumps long; heads small and hard; color, a mixture
+of green and red.
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGE GREENS.
+
+
+In the vicinity of our large cities, the market gardeners sow large
+areas very thickly with cabbage seed, early in the spring, to raise
+young plants to be sold as greens. The seed is sown broadcast at the
+rate of ten pounds and upwards to the acre. Seed of the Savoy cabbage is
+usually sown for this purpose, which may be sometimes purchased at a
+discount, owing to some defect in quality or purity, that would render
+it worthless for planting for a crop of heading cabbage.
+
+The young plants are cut off about even with the ground, when four or
+five inches high, washed, and carried to market in barrels or bushel
+boxes. The price varies with the state of the market, from 12 cents to
+$3 a barrel, the average price in Boston market being about a dollar.
+With the return of spring most families have some cabbage stumps
+remaining in the cellar; these can be planted about a foot apart in some
+handy spot along the edge of the garden, where they will not interfere
+with the general crop, setting them under ground from a quarter to a
+half their length, depending on the length of the stumps. They will soon
+be covered with green shoots, which should be used as greens before the
+blossom buds show themselves, as they then become too strong to be
+agreeable. If the spot is rich and has been well dug, the rapidity of
+growth is surprising; and if the shoots are frequently gathered, many
+nice messes of greens can be grown from a few stumps. Farmers in
+Northern Vermont tell me, that if they break off each seed shoot as soon
+as it shows itself, close home to the stump, nice little heads will push
+out on almost every stump. In England, where the winter climate is much
+milder than that of New England, it is the practice to raise a second
+crop of heads in this way. In my own neighborhood I have seen an acre
+from which a crop of drumhead cabbage had been cut off early in the
+season, every stump on which had from three to six hard heads, varying
+from the size of a hen's egg to that of a goose egg; but to get this
+second growth of heads, as much of the stump and leaves should be left
+as possible, when cutting out the original head. As in the cabbage
+districts of the North little or no use is made of this prolific after
+growth, it is worse than useless to suffer the ground to be exhausted by
+it; the stump should be pulled by the potato hoe as soon as the heads
+are marketed. When cabbages are planted out for seed, if, for any
+reason, the seed shoot fails to push out, and at times when it does push
+out, fine sprouts for greens will start below the head; when the stock
+of these sprouts becomes too tough for use, the large leaves may be
+stripped from them and cooked. I usually break off the tender tops of
+large sprouts, and then strip off the tenderest of the large leaves
+below.
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGE FOR STOCK.
+
+
+No vegetable raised in the temperate zone, Mangold Wurtzel alone
+excepted, will produce as much food to the acre, both for man and beast,
+as the cabbage. I have seen acres of the Marblehead Mammoth drumhead
+which would average thirty pounds to each cabbage, some specimens
+weighing over sixty pounds. The plants were four feet apart each way
+which would give a product of over forty tons to the acre; and I have
+tested a crop of Fottler's that yielded thirty tons of green food to the
+half acre. Other vegetables are at times raised for cattle feed, such as
+potatoes, carrots, ruta bagas, mangold wurtzels; a crop of potatoes
+yielding four hundred bushels to the acre at sixty pounds the bushel
+would weigh twelve tons; a crop of carrot yielding twelve hundred
+bushels to the acre would weigh thirty tons; ruta bagas sometimes yield
+thirty tons; and mangolds as high as seventy tons to the acre. I have
+set all these crops at a high capacity for fodder purposes; the same
+favoring conditions of soil, manure, and cultivation that would produce
+four hundred bushels of potatoes, twelve hundred bushels of carrots, and
+thirty-five tons of ruta baga turnips, would give a crop of forty tons
+of the largest variety of drumhead cabbage. If we now consider the
+comparative merits of these crops for nutriment, we find that the
+cabbage excels them all in this department also. The potatoes abound in
+starch, the mangold and carrot are largely composed of water, while the
+cabbage abounds in rich, nitrogeneous food.
+
+Prof. Stewart states that cabbage for milch cows has about the same
+feeding value as sweet corn ensilage, and makes the value not over $3.40
+per ton. Now it is admitted by general current that the value of common
+ensilage, which is inferior to that made from sweet corn, is, when
+compared with good English hay, as 3 to 1. This would make cabbages for
+milch cows worth not far from $7.00 per ton.
+
+When cabbage is kept for stock feed later than the first severe frost,
+if the quantity is large there is considerable waste even with the best
+of care. The loose leaves should be fed first, and the heads kept in a
+cool place, not more than two or three deep, at as near the freezing
+point as possible. If it has been necessary to cut the heads from the
+stumps, they may be piled, after the weather has set in decidedly cold,
+conveniently near the barn, and kept covered with a foot of straw or
+old litter. As long as a cabbage is kept frozen there is no waste to it;
+but if it be allowed to freeze and thaw two or three times, it will soon
+rot with an awful stench. I suspect that it is this rotten portion of
+the cabbage that often gives the bad flavor to milk. On the other hand,
+if it is kept in too warm and dry a place, the outer leaves will dry,
+turning yellow, and the whole head lose in weight,--if it be not very
+hard, shrivelling, and, if hard, shrinking. If they are kept in too warm
+and wet a place, the heads will decay fast, in a black, soft rot. The
+best way to preserve cabbages for stock into the winter, is to place
+them in trenches a few inches below the surface, and there cover with
+from a foot to two feet of coarse hay or straw, the depth depending on
+the coldness of the locality. When the ground has been frozen too hard
+to open with a plough or spade, I have kept them until spring by piling
+them loosely, hay-stack shape, about four feet high, letting the frost
+strike through them, and afterwards covering with a couple of feet of
+eel-grass; straw or coarse hay would doubtless do as well.
+
+I have treated of cabbage thus far when grown specially for stock; in
+every piece of cabbage handled for market purposes, there is a large
+proportion of waste suitable for stock feed, which includes the outside
+leaves and such heads as have not hardened up sufficiently for market.
+On walking over a piece just after my cabbages for seed stock have been
+taken off, I note that the refuse leaves that were stripped from the
+heads before pulling are so abundant they nearly cover the ground. If
+leaves so stripped remain exposed to frost, they soon spoil; or, if
+earlier in the season they are exposed to the sun, they soon become
+yellow, dry, and of but little value. They can be rapidly collected with
+a hay fork and carted, if there be but a few, into the barn; should
+there be a large quantity, dump them within a convenient distance of the
+barn or feeding ground, but not where the cattle can trample them, and
+spread them so that they will be but a few inches in depth. If piled in
+heaps they will quickly heat; but even then, if not too much decayed,
+cattle will eat them with avidity. Cabbages are hardy plants, and loose
+heads will stand a good deal of freezing and thawing without serious
+injury. They are not generally injured with the thermometer 16 deg. below
+freezing. The waste, after the seed and all market cabbage are removed,
+brings me about $10 per acre on the ground, for cow feed.
+
+If cabbage is fed to cows in milk without some care, it will be apt to
+give the milk a strong cabbage flavor; all the feed for the day should
+be given early in the morning. Beginning with a small quantity, and
+gradually increasing it, the dairy man will soon learn his limits. The
+effect of a liberal feed to milk stock is to largely increase the flow
+of milk. Avoid feeding to any extent while the leaves are frozen.
+
+An English writer says: "The cabbage comes into use when other things
+begin to fail, and it is by far the best succulent vegetable for milking
+cows,--keeping up the yield of milk, and preserving, better than any
+other food, some portion of the quality which cheese loses when the cows
+quit their natural pasturage. Cows fed on cabbages are always quiet and
+satisfied, while on turnips they often scour and are restless. When
+frosted, they are liable to produce hoven, unless kept in a warm shed to
+thaw before being used; fifty-six pounds given, at two meals, are as
+much as a large cow should have in a day. Frequent cases of abortion are
+caused by an over-supply of green food. Cabbages are excellent for young
+animals, keeping them in health, and preventing 'black leg.' A calf of
+seven months may have twenty pounds a day."
+
+
+
+
+RAISING CABBAGE SEED.
+
+
+Cabbage seed in England, particularly of the drumhead sorts, is mostly
+raised from stumps, or from the refuse that remains after all that is
+salable has been disposed of. The agent of one of the largest English
+seed houses, a few years since, laughed at my "wastefulness," as he
+termed it, in raising seed from solid heads. In our country, cabbage
+seed is mostly raised from soft, half-formed heads, which are grown as a
+late crop, few, if any of them, being hard enough to be of any value in
+the market. Seedsmen practise selecting a few fine, hard heads, from
+which to raise their seed stock. It has been my practice to grow seed
+from none but extra fine heads, better than the average of those carried
+to market. I do this on the theory that no cabbage can be too good for a
+seedhead, if the design is to keep the stock first-class. Perhaps such
+strictness may not be necessary; but I had rather err in setting out too
+good heads than too poor ones; besides, the great hardness obtained by
+the heads of the Stone Mason, makes it possible, at least, that I am
+right. Cabbage raised from seed grown from stumps are apt to be
+unreliable for heading, and to grow long-stumped, though under
+unfavorable conditions, long-stumped and poor-headed cabbage may grow
+from the best of seed. To have the best of seed, all shoots that start
+below the head should be broken off. To prevent the plants falling over
+after the seed-stalks are grown, dig deep holes, and plant the entire
+stump in the ground. Scarecrows should be set up, or some like
+precaution be taken, to keep away the little seed-birds, that begin to
+crack the pods as soon as they commence to ripen. A plaster cat is a
+very good scarecrow to frighten away birds from seed and small fruits,
+if its location is changed every few days.
+
+I find that the pods of cabbage seed grown South are tough, and not
+brittle, like those grown North, and hence that they are injured but
+little, if any, by seed birds. When the seed-pods have passed what
+seedsmen call their "red" stage, they begin to harden; as soon as a
+third of them are brown, the entire stalk may be cut and hung up in a
+dry, airy place, for a few days, when the seed will be ready for rubbing
+or threshing out. Different varieties should be raised far apart to
+insure purity; and cabbage seed had better not be raised in the vicinity
+of turnip seed. There is some difference of opinion as to the effect of
+growing these near each other; where the two vegetables blossom at the
+same time, I should fear an admixture. When the care requisite to select
+good seed stock, and the trouble, and, often, great loss, in keeping it
+over winter, planting it in isolated locations, protecting it from wind
+and weather, guarding it from injury from birds and other enemies,
+gathering it, cleaning it, are all considered, few men will find that
+they can afford to raise their own seed, provided they can buy it from
+reliable seedsmen.
+
+
+
+
+COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC.
+
+
+Cabbage when boiled with salt pork, as it is mostly used, is the food
+for strong and healthy digestive powers; but when eaten in its raw
+state, served with vinegar and pepper, it is considered one of the most
+easily digested articles of diet. In the process of cooking, even with
+the greatest care, a large portion of the sweetness is lost. The length
+of time required to cook cabbage by boiling varies with the quality,
+those of the best quality requiring about twenty minutes, while others
+require an hour. In cooking put it into boiling water in which a little
+salt and soda has been sprinkled, which will tend to preserve the
+natural green color. It will be well to change the water once. The
+peculiar aroma given out by cabbage when cooking is thought to depend
+somewhat on the manner in which it is grown; those having been raised
+with the least rank manure having the least. I think this is one of the
+whims of the community. By using some varieties of boilers all steam is
+carried into the fire, and there is no smell in the house.
+
+To _Pickle_, select hard heads, quarter them, soak in salt and water
+four or five days, then drain and treat as for other pickles, with
+vinegar spiced to suit.
+
+For _Cold Slaw_, select hard heads, halve and then slice up these halves
+exceedingly fine. Lay these in a deep dish, and pour over vinegar that
+has been raised to the boiling point in which has been mixed a little
+pepper and salt.
+
+_Sour-Krout._ Take large, hard-headed drumheads, halve, and cut very
+fine; then pack in a clean, tight barrel, beginning with a sprinkling of
+salt, and following with a layer of cabbage, and thus alternating until
+the barrel is filled. Now compact the mass as much as possible by
+pounding, after which put on a well-fitting cover resting on the
+cabbage, and lay heavy weights or a stone on this. When fermented it is
+ready for use. To prepare for the table fry in butter or fat.
+
+The outer green leaves of cabbages are sometimes used to line a brass or
+copper kettle in which pickles are made in the belief that the vinegar
+extracts the coloring substance (chlorophyl) in the leaves, and the
+cucumbers absorbing this acquire a rich green color. Be not deceived by
+this transparent cheat, O simple housewife! the coloring matter comes
+almost wholly from the copper or brass behind those leaves; and, instead
+of an innocent vegetable pigment, your green cucumbers are dyed with the
+poisonous carbonate of copper.
+
+
+
+
+CABBAGES UNDER GLASS.
+
+
+The very early cabbages usually bringing high prices, the enterprising
+market gardener either winters the young plants under glass or starts
+them there, planting the seed under its protecting shelter long before
+the cold of winter is passed. When the design is to winter over fall
+grown plants, the seed are planted in the open ground about the middle
+of September, and at about the last of October they are ready to go into
+the cold frames, as such are called that depend wholly on the sun for
+heat. Select those having short stumps and transplant into the frames,
+about an inch and a half by two inches apart, setting them deep in the
+soil up to the lower leaves, shading them with a straw mat, or the like,
+for a few days, after which let them remain without any glass over them
+until the frost is severe enough to begin to freeze the ground, then
+place over the sashes; but bear in mind that the object is not to
+promote growth, but, as nearly as possible, to keep them in a dormant
+state, to keep them so cold that they will not grow, and just
+sufficiently protected to prevent injury from freezing. With this object
+in view the sashes must be raised whenever the temperature is above
+freezing, and this process will so harden the plants that they will
+receive no serious injury though the ground under the sash should freeze
+two inches deep; cabbage plants will stand a temperature of fifteen to
+twenty degrees below the freezing point. A covering of snow on the sash
+will do no harm, if it does not last longer than a week or ten days, in
+which case it must be removed. There is some danger to be feared from
+ground mice, who, when everything else is locked up by the frost, will
+instinctively take to the sash, and there cause much destruction among
+the plants unless these are occasionally examined. When March opens
+remove the sash when the temperature will allow, replacing it when the
+weather is unseasonably cold, particularly at night. The plants may be
+brought still farther forward by transferring them from the hot-bed when
+two or three inches high to cold frames, having first somewhat hardened
+them. When so transferred plant them about an inch apart, and shield
+from the sun for two or three days. After this they may be treated as in
+cold frames. The transfer tends to keep them stocky, increases the
+fibrous roots and makes the plants hardier. As the month advances it may
+be left entirely off, and about the first of April the plants may be set
+out in the open field, pressing fine earth firmly around the roots.
+
+When cabbages are raised in hot-beds the seed, in the latitude of
+Boston, should be planted on the first of March; in that of New York,
+about a fortnight earlier. When two or three inches high, which will be
+in three or four weeks, they should be thinned to about four or less to
+an inch in the row. They should now be well hardened by partly drawing
+off the sashes in the warm part of the day, and covering at night; as
+the season advances remove the sashes entirely by day, covering only at
+night. By about the middle of April the plants will be ready for the
+open ground.
+
+When raised in cold frames in the spring, the seed should be planted
+about the first of April, mats being used to retain by night the solar
+heat accumulated during the day. As the season advances the same process
+of hardening will be necessary as with those raised in hot-beds.
+
+
+
+
+COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED.
+
+
+To carry on hot-beds on a large scale successfully is almost an art in
+itself, and for fuller details I will refer my readers to works on
+gardening. Early plants, in a small way, may be raised in flower pots or
+boxes in a warm kitchen window. It is best, if practicable, to have but
+one plant in each pot, that they may grow short and stocky. If the seed
+are not planted earlier than April, for out-of-door cultivation, a cold
+frame will answer.
+
+For a cold frame select the locality in the fall, choosing a warm
+location on a southern slope, protected by a fence or building on the
+north and north-west. Set posts in the ground, nail two boards to these
+parallel to each other, one about a foot in height, and the other
+towards the south about four inches narrower; this will give the sashes
+resting on them the right slope to shed the rain and receive as much
+heat as possible from the sun. Have these boards at a distance apart
+equal to the length of the sash, which may be any common window sash for
+a small bed, while three and a half feet is the length of a common
+gardener's sash. If common window sash is used cut channels in the
+cross-bars to let the water run off. Dig the ground thoroughly (it is
+best to cover it in the fall with litter, to keep the frost out) and
+rake out all stones or clods; then slide in the sash and let it remain
+closed for three or four days, that the soil may be warmed by the sun's
+rays. The two end boards and the bottom board should rise as high as the
+sash, to prevent the heat escaping, and the bottom board of a small
+frame should have a strip nailed inside to rest the sash on. Next rake
+in, thoroughly, guano, or phosphate, or finely pulverized hen manure,
+and plant in rows four to six inches apart. As the season advances raise
+the sashes an inch or two, in the middle of the day, and water freely,
+at evening, with water that is nearly of the temperature of the earth in
+the frame. As the heat of the season increases whitewash the glass, and
+keep them more and more open until just before the plants are set in
+open ground, then allow the glass to remain entirely off, both day and
+night, unless there should be a cold rain. This will harden them so that
+they will not be apt to be injured by the cabbage beetle, as well as
+chilled and put back by the change. Should the plants be getting too
+large before the season for transplanting, they should be checked by
+root pruning,--drawing a sharp knife within a couple of inches of the
+stalk. If it is desirable still further to check their growth, or harden
+them, transplant into another cold frame, allowing each plant double the
+distance it before occupied.
+
+The structure and management of a hot-bed is much the same as that of a
+cold frame, with the exception that the sashes are usually longer and
+the back and front somewhat higher; being started earlier the requisite
+temperature has to be kept up by artificial means, fermenting manure
+being relied upon for the purpose; and the loss of this heat has to be
+checked more carefully by straw matting, and, in the far North, by
+shutters also. In constructing it, horse-manure, with plenty of litter,
+and about a quarter its bulk in leaves, if attainable, all having been
+well mixed together, is thrown into a pile, and left for a few days
+until steam escapes, when the mass is again thrown over and left for two
+or three days more, after which it is thrown into the pit (or it may be
+placed directly on the surface) which is lined with boards, from
+eighteen inches to two feet in depth, when it is beaten down with a fork
+and trodden well together. The sashes are now put on and kept there
+until heat is developed. The first intense heat must be allowed to pass
+off, which will be in about three days after the high temperature is
+reached. Now throw on six or eight inches of fine soil, in which mix
+well rotted manure, free from all straw, or rake in, thoroughly,
+superphosphate, or guano, at the rate of two thousand pounds to the
+acre, and plant the seed as in cold frame. Harden the plants as directed
+in preceding paragraph.
+
+
+
+
+CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE, AND SEA-KALE.
+
+
+My treatise on the cabbage would hardly be complete without some
+allusion to such prominent members of the Brassica family as the
+cauliflower, broccoli, brussels-sprouts, and kale.
+
+~Cauliflower.~ Wrote the great Dr. Johnson: "Of all the flowers of the
+garden, give me the cauliflower." Whether from this we are to infer the
+surpassing excellence of this member of the Brassica family, or that the
+distinguished lexicographer meant emphatically to state his preference
+of utility to beauty (perhaps our own Ben. Franklin took a leaf from
+him), each reader must be his own judge; but be that as it may, it
+remains true, beyond all controversy, that the cauliflower, in toothsome
+excellence, stands at the head of the great family of which it is a
+member. To be successful, and raise choice cauliflowers, is the height
+of the ambition of the market gardener; and, with all his experience,
+and with every facility at hand, he does not expect full success oftener
+than three years in four. The cauliflower, like the strawberry, is
+exceedingly sensitive to the presence or absence of sufficient water,
+and success or failure with the crop may turn on its having a full
+supply from the time they are half grown. The finest specimens raised in
+Europe are grown in beds, which are kept well watered from the supply
+which runs between them; and the most successful growers in the country
+irrigate their crops during periods of drouth. Cauliflowers do best on
+deep, rich, rather moist soils. In the way of food, they want the very
+best, and plenty of it at that. The successful competitor, who won the
+first prize at the great Bay State Fair, to the disgusted surprise of a
+grower justly famous for his almost uniform success in winning the
+laurels, whispered in my ear his secret: "R. manures very heavily in the
+spring for his crop. I manure very heavily both fall and spring." In
+manuring, therefore, do as well by them as by your heaviest crop of
+large drumhead cabbage, using rich and well-rotted manure, broadcast,
+with dissolved bone or ashes, or both, in the drill. Plough deep, and
+work the land very thoroughly, two ploughings, with a harrowing between,
+are better than one. Give plenty of room; three by three for the smaller
+sorts, and three by three and a half for the later and larger. They need
+the same cultivation, and, being subject to the same diseases and injury
+from insect enemies, need the same protection as their cousins of the
+cabbage tribe. In raising for the summer market, start in the cold
+frame, or plant as early as the ground can be worked, that the plants
+may get well started before the dry season, or the crop will be likely
+to make such small heads "buttons" as to be practically a failure. For
+late crop, plant seed in the hills where they are to grow, from the 20th
+of May to the middle of June. The crop ripens somewhat irregularly. When
+there is danger from frost, the later heads should be pulled and stored,
+with both roots and leaves, being crowded, standing as they grew, into a
+cold cellar or cold pit, when they will continue growing. As soon as the
+heads begin to form, they should be protected from sunlight by either
+half breaking off the outer leaves and bending them over them, or by
+gathering these leaves loosely together and confining them loosely by
+rough pegs, or by tying them together with a wisp of rye-straw.
+
+~Varieties.~ These are almost as numerous as in the cabbage family. I
+find notes on some thirty-five varieties, tested from year to year, in
+my experimental grounds. Most of them prove themselves to be but a
+lottery, in this country of dry seasons, though in the moister climate
+of the European localities, where they are at home, they are a success.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Half-Early Paris, or Demi-Dur, was for years the standard variety
+raised in this country, and from this, by selection, favorite local
+varieties were obtained; but, of late years, this has been, to a large
+degree, superseded by several excellent sorts, of which the Extra-Early
+Dwarf Erfurt was, doubtless the parent. Principal among these varieties
+are the Snowball, the Sea-Foam, Vick's Ideal, and Berlin Dwarf. All of
+these are early sorts and excellent strains. After testing them side by
+side, I find that the best strain of the Snowball is not excelled by
+either of them. Of the somewhat later ripening sorts, a variety which
+originated in this country, called the "Long Island Beauty," gives me
+great satisfaction, in its reliability for heading, and in the large
+size of its heads; this, with the Algerian, as a larger late sort, will
+give us a first-class series.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Cauliflower seed is not raised, as yet, to any large extent in this
+country, though some successful efforts have recently been made in this
+direction. I have found that there is a remarkable difference between
+varieties in the quantity of seed they will yield. From one variety I
+have raised as high as sixty pounds of seed from a given number of
+plants, while from two others, equally early, having the same number of
+plants in each instance, and raised in the same location (an island in
+the ocean), with precisely the same treatment in every way, I got, in
+each case, less than a tablespoonful of seed, though the heads of some
+of them grew to the enormous size of sixteen inches in diameter.
+
+A fine cauliflower is the pet achievement of the market gardener. The
+great aim is not to produce size only, "but the fine, white, creamy
+color, compactness, and what is technically called curdy appearance,
+from its resemblance to the curd of milk in its preparation for cheese.
+When the flower begins to open, or when it is of a warty or frost-like
+appearance, it is less esteemed. It should not be cut in summer above a
+day before it is used." The cauliflower is served with milk and butter,
+or it may become a component of soups, or be used as a pickle.
+
+The ~Broccoli~ are closely allied to the cauliflower, the white
+varieties bearing so close a resemblance that one of them, the
+Walcheren, is by some classed indiscriminately with each. The chief
+distinction between the two is in hardiness, the broccoli being much the
+hardier.
+
+Of Broccoli over forty varieties are named in foreign catalogues, of
+which WALCHEREN is one of the very best. KNIGHT'S PROTECTING is an
+exceedingly hardy dwarf sort. As a rule, the white varieties are
+preferred to the purple kinds. Plant and treat as cauliflower.
+
+Of ~Brussels-Sprouts~ (or bud-bearing cabbage) there are but two
+varieties, the dwarf and the tall; the tall kind produces more buds,
+while the dwarf is the hardier. The "sprouts" form on the stalks, and
+are miniature heads of cabbage from the size of a pea to that of a
+pigeon's egg. They are raised to but a limited extent in this country,
+but in Europe they are grown on a large scale. The sprouts may be
+cooked and served like cabbage, though oftentimes they are treated more
+as a delicacy and served with butter or some rich sauce. The FEATHER
+STEM SAVOY and DALMENY SPROUTS are considered as hybrids,
+the one between the brussels-sprouts and Savoy, the other between it and
+Drumhead Savoy. The soil for brussels-sprouts should not be so rich as
+for cabbage, as the object is to grow them small and solid. Give the
+same distance apart as for early cabbage, and the same manner of
+cultivation. Break off the leaves at the sides a few at a time when the
+sprouts begin to form and when they are ready to use cut them off with a
+sharp knife.
+
+~Kale.~ Sea-kale, or sea-cabbage, is a native of the sea coast of
+England, growing in the sand and pebbles of the sea-shore. It is a
+perennial, perfectly hardy, withstanding the coldest winters of New
+England. The blossoms, though bearing a general resemblance to those of
+other members of the cabbage family, are yet quite unique in appearance,
+and I think worthy of a place in the flower garden. It is propagated
+both by seed and by cuttings of the roots, having the rows three feet
+apart, and the plants three feet apart in the rows. It is difficult to
+get the seeds to vegetate. Plant seed in April and May. The ground
+should be richly manured, and deeply and thoroughly worked. It is
+blanched before using. In cooking it it requires to be very thoroughly
+boiled, after which it is served up in melted butter and toasted bread.
+The sea-kale is highly prized in England; but thus far its cultivation
+in this country has been very limited.
+
+The ~Borecole~, or common kale, is of the cabbage family, but is
+characterized by not heading like the cabbage or producing eatable
+flowers like the cauliflower and broccoli. The varieties are very
+numerous, some of them growing very large and coarse, suitable only as
+food for stock; others are exceedingly finely curled, and excellent for
+table use; while others in their color and structure are highly
+ornamental. They are annual, biennial, and perennial. They do not
+require so strong a soil or such high manuring as other varieties of the
+cabbage family.
+
+The varieties are almost endless; some of the best in cultivation for
+table use are the DWARF SCOTCH, DWARF GREEN CURLED or GERMAN GREENS,
+TALL GREEN CURLED, PURPLE BORECOLE, and the variegated kales. The crown
+of the plant is used as greens, or as an ingredient in soups. The kales
+are very hardy, and the dwarf varieties, with but little protection, can
+be kept in the North well into the winter in the open ground. Plant and
+cultivate like Savoy cabbage.
+
+The variegated sorts, with their fine curled leaves of a rich purple,
+green, red, white, or yellow color, are very pleasing in their effects,
+and form a striking and attractive feature when planted in clumps in the
+flower garden, particularly is this so because their extreme hardiness
+leaves them in full vigor after the cold has destroyed all other
+plants--some of the richest colors are developed along the veins of the
+uppermost leaves after the plant has nearly finished its growth for the
+season. The JERSEY COW KALE grows to from three to six feet in
+height and yields a great body of green food for stock; have the rows
+about three feet apart, and the plants two to three feet distant in the
+rows. In several instances my customers have written me that this kale
+raised for stock feed has given them great satisfaction.
+
+The THOUSAND-HEADED KALE is a tall variety sending out numerous
+side shoots, whence the name.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+SQUASHES:
+
+HOW TO GROW THEM.
+
+PRICE, 30 CENTS, BY MAIL.
+
+This treatise is amply illustrated, and gives full particulars on every
+point, including keeping and marketing the crop.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+FERTILIZERS:
+
+WHERE THE MATERIALS COME FROM; HOW TO GET THEM IN THE CHEAPEST FORM; HOW
+TO MAKE OUR OWN FERTILIZERS.
+
+
+In this work there will be found many valuable tables, with many
+suggestions, and much information on the purchase of materials, the
+combining of them, and the use of the fertilizers made from them. I
+believe it will give a good return to any of my customers, for his
+outlay. The treatise makes a book of 116 pages.
+
+PRICE, BY MAIL, 40 CENTS.
+
+
+CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS:
+
+_HOW TO GROW THEM_.
+
+A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT, INCLUDING
+KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.
+
+BY
+
+JAMES J. H. GREGORY, AUTHOR OF WORKS ON SQUASH RAISING, ONION RAISING,
+ETC., ETC.
+
+BOSTON: CASHMAN, KEATING & CO., PRINTERS, 1889.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ONION RAISING:
+
+ WHAT KINDS TO RAISE
+ AND
+ THE WAY TO RAISE THEM.
+
+BY
+
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+ SEED GROWER AND DEALER,
+ MARBLEHEAD, MASS.
+
+This work has been warmly recommended by some of the best authorities in
+the country, and has gone through fourteen editions. It gives the
+minutest details, from selecting the ground and preparing the soil, up
+to gathering and marketing the crop. Illustrated with thirteen
+engravings of Onions, Sowing Machines, and Weeding Machines.
+
+~PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.~
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+A NEW TREATISE.
+
+CARROTS, MANGOLD WURTZELS
+
+AND
+
+SUGAR BEETS.
+
+WHAT KIND TO RAISE:
+
+How to Grow Them
+
+AND
+
+How to Feed Them.
+
+This treatise presents, in minutest detail, every step of progress, from
+planting the seed to the matured crop.
+
+BY
+
+ JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
+ MARBLEHEAD, MASS.
+
+PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow
+Them, by James John Howard Gregory
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS: ***
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